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diff --git a/10857-h/10857-h.htm b/10857-h/10857-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0b9bd4 --- /dev/null +++ b/10857-h/10857-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10178 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta name="generator" content= +"HTML Tidy for Windows (vers 1st November 2003), see www.w3.org" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of My Native Land, +by James Cox</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[*/ + + <!-- + body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + p {text-align: justify;} + blockquote {text-align: justify;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center;} + hr {text-align: center; width: 80%;} +.figure, .figcenter, .figright + {padding: 1em; margin: 0; text-align: center; font-size: 0.8em;} + .figure img, .figcenter img, .figright img + {border: none;} + .figure p, .figcenter p, .figright p + {margin: 0; text-indent: 1em;} + .figcenter {margin: auto;} +--> +/*]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10857 ***</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>MY NATIVE LAND.</h1> +<br /> +<br /> +<h5>The United States: its Wonders, its Beauties, and its +People;<br /> +with Descriptive Notes, Character Sketches, Folk<br /> +Lore, Traditions, Legends and History, for<br /> +the Amusement of the Old and the<br /> +Instruction of the Young.</h5> +<br /> +<h5>BY</h5> +<br /> +<h3>JAMES COX,</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h5>Author of "Our Own Country," "Missouri at the World's Fair," +"Old and New St. Louis," "An Arkansas Eden," "Oklahoma Revisited," +Etc.</h5> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<center><tt><i>"Breathes there a man with soul so dead<br /> +Who never to himself has +said, <br /> + This is my own,my native +land." </i></tt></center> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<h5>PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.</h5> +<br /> +<br /> +<h5>1903.</h5> +<br /> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0366.jpg" id="Minute"><img src="images/m0366t.jpg" alt= +"Statue to Minute Man" /></a></div> +<h4>Statue to Minute Man</h4> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c1">CHAPTER I.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>OUR NATION'S BIRTH.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Story of Liberty Bell--Impartial Opinions on the +Revolutionary War--The Shot that was Heard Around the World--The +First Committee of Safety--A Defeat which Equaled a +Victory--Washington's Earnestness--To Congress on Horseback--The +First 4th of July Celebration.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c2">CHAPTER II.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THE WITCH OF SALEM.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Relic of Religious Bigotry--Parson Lawson's Tirade against +Witchcraft--Extraordinary Court Records of Old Puritan +Days--Alleged Supernatural Conjuring--A Man and his Wife both put +to Death--Crushed for Refusing to Plead--A Romance of the Old Days +of Witch Persecution.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c3">CHAPTER III.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>IN PICTURESQUE NEW YORK.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Some Local Errors Corrected--A Trip Down the Hudson River--The +Last of the Mohicans--The Home of Rip Van Winkle--The Ladies of +Vassar and their Home--West Point and its History--Sing Sing +Prison--The Falls of Niagara--Indians in New York State.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>IN THE CENTER OF THE COUNTRY.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Geographical Center of the United States, and its Location +West of the Mississippi River--The Center of Population--History of +Fort Riley--The Gallant "Seventh"--Early Troubles of +Kansas--Extermination of the Buffalo--But a Few Survivors out of +Many Millions.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c5">CHAPTER V.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THE MORMONS AND THEIR WIVES.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Pilgrimage Across the Bad Lands to Utah--Incidents of the +March--Success of the New Colony--Religious Persecutions--Murder of +an Entire Family--The Curse of Polygamy--An Ideal City--Humors of +Bathing in Great Salt Lake.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THE INVASION OF OKLAHOMA.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A History of the Indian Nation--Early Struggles of Oklahoma +Boomers--Fight between Home-Seekers and Soldiers--Scenes at the +Opening of Oklahoma Proper--A Miserable Night on the Prairie--A +Race for Homes--Lawlessness in the Old Indian Territory.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>COWBOYS--REAL AND IDEAL.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Much Maligned Class--The Cowboy as he Is, and as he is +Supposed to be--Prairie Fever and how it is Cured--Life on the +Ranch Thirty Years Ago and Now--Singular Fashions and Changes of +Costume--Troubles Encountered by would-be Bad Men.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>WARDS OF OUR NATIVE LAND.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Indians' Admirers and Critics--At School and After--Indian +Courtship and Marriage--Extraordinary Dances--Gambling by +Instinct--How "Cross-Eye" Lost his Pony--Pawning a Baby--Amusing +and Degrading Scenes on Annuity Day.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>CIVILIZATION--ACTUAL AND ALLEGED.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Tried in the Balances and Found Wanting--Indian Archers--Bow and +Arrow Lore--Barbarous Customs that Die Slowly--"Great Wolf," the +Indian Vanderbilt--How the Seri were Taught a Valuable +Lesson--Playing with Rattlesnakes with Impunity.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c10">CHAPTER X.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>OLD TIME COMMUNISTS.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Houses on Rocks and Sand Hills--How Many Families Dwelt Together +in Unity--Peculiarities of Costumes--Pueblo Architecture and Folk +Lore--A Historic Struggle and how it Ended--Legends Concerning +Montezuma--Curious Religious Ceremonies.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>HOW CUSTER LIVED AND DIED.</h4> +<br /> +<p>"Remember Custer"--An Eye-Witness of the Massacre--Custer, Cody +and Alexis--A Ride over the Scenes of the Unequal Conflict--Major +Reno's Marked Failure--How "Sitting Bull" Ran Away and Lived to +Fight Another Day--Why a Medicine Man did not Summon Rain.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>AMONG THE CREOLES.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Meaning of the word "Creole"--An Old Aristocratic Relic--The +Venice of America--Origin of the Creole Carnivals--Rex and his +Annual Disguises--Creole Balls--The St. Louis Veiled Prophets--The +French Market and other Landmarks in New Orleans--A Beautiful +Ceremony and an Unfinished Monument.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THE HEATHEN CHINEE IN HIS ELEMENT.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Trip to Chinatown, San Francisco--A House with a +History--Narrow Alleys and Secret Doors--Opium Smoking and its +Effects--The Highbinders--Celestial Theatricals--Chinese +Festivals--The Brighter Side of a Great City--A Mammoth Hotel and a +Beautiful Park.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c14">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>BEFORE EMANCIPATION AND AFTER.</h4> +<br /> +<p>First Importation of Negro Slaves into America--The Original +Abolitionists--A Colored Enthusiast and a Coward--Origin of the +word "Secession"--John Brown's Fanaticism--Uncle Tom's +Cabin--Faithful unto Death--George Augustus Sala on the Negro who +Lingered too long in the Mill Pond.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c15">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>OUR NATIONAL PARK.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Delightful Rhapsody--Early History of Yellowstone Park--A Fish +Story which Convulsed Congress--The First White Man to Visit the +Park--A Race for Life--Philosophy of the Hot Springs--Mount +Everts--From the Geysers to Elk Park--Some Old Friends and New +Ones--Yellowstone Lake--The Angler's Paradise.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c16">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THE HEROES OF THE IRON HORSE.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Honor to whom Honor is Due--A Class of Men Not Always Thoroughly +Appreciated at their Worth--An Amateur's Ride on a Flying +Locomotive--From Twelve Miles an Hour to Six Times that Speed--The +Signal Tower and the Men who Work in it--Stealing a Train--A Race +with Steam--Stories about Bewitched Locomotives and Providential +Escapes.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c17">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>A RAILROAD TO THE CLOUDS.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Early History of Manitou--Zebulon Pike's Important Discovery--A +Young Medicine Man's Peril and Final Triumph--A Health Resort in +Years Gone By--The Garden of the Gods--The Railroad up Pike's +Peak--Early Failures and Final Success--The Most Remarkable Road in +the World--Riding Above the Clouds.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>INTO THE BOWELS OF THE EARTH.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Grand Cañon of the Colorado--Niagara Outdone--The +Course of the Colorado River--A Survey Party Through the +Cañon--Experiences of a Terrible Night--Wonderful Contrasts +of Color in the Massive Rocks--A Natural Wall a Thousand Feet +High--Hieroglyphics which have Never been Deciphered--Relics of a +Superior Race--Conjecture as to the Origin of the Ancient Bearded +White Men.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c19">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>OUR GREAT WATERWAYS.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Importance of Rivers to Commerce a Generation Ago--The Ideal +River Man--The Great Mississippi River and its Importance to our +Native Land--The Treacherous Missouri--A First Mate who Found a +Cook's Disguise very Convenient--How a Second Mate got over the +Inconvenience of Temporary Financial Embarrassment.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c20">CHAPTER XX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>THROUGH THE GREAT NORTHWEST.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Importance of Some of our Newest States--Romantic History of +Montana--The Bad Lands and their Exact Opposite--Civilization Away +Up in the Mountains--Indians who have Never Quarreled with White +Men--Traditions Concerning Mount Tacoma--Wonderful Towns of the +Extreme Northwest--A State Shaped like a Large Chair--The Falls of +Shoshone.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a href="#c21">CHAPTER XXI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<h4>IN THE WARM SOUTHEAST.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Florida and its Appropriate Name--The First Portions of North +America Discovered by White Men--Early Vicissitudes of its +Explorers--An Enormous Coast Line--How Key West came to be a great +Cigar Town--The Suwanee River--St. Augustine and its World-Renowned +Hotel--Old Fort Marion.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<p><a href="#Minute">Statue to Minute Man</a></p> +<p><a href="#Independence">Interior of Independence Hall, +Philadelphia</a></p> +<p><a href="#Winkle">A Memory of Rip Van Winkle</a></p> +<p><a href="#Grant">Tomb of General Grant, Riverside Park</a></p> +<!--Placeholder for future insertion of illustration<p><a href="#Center"> +The Exact Center of United States</a></p>--> +<p><a href="#Brigham">Brigham Young's Grave, Salt Lake City</a></p> +<p><a href="#Rain-in-the-Face">Chief Rain-in-the-Face and his +Favorite Pony</a></p> +<p><a href="#Cowboy">The Cowboy as He Is</a></p> +<p><a href="#Civilized">Civilized Indians</a></p> +<p><a href="#Uncivilized">An Uncivilized Savage</a></p> +<p><a href="#Belle">The Belle of the Pueblo</a></p> +<p><a href="#Custer">Custer Battlefield and Monument</a></p> +<p><a href="#Market">The Old French Market at New Orleans</a></p> +<p><a href="#Chinese">The Prettiest Chinese Woman in +America</a></p> +<p><a href="#Falls">Yellowstone Falls</a></p> +<p><a href="#Park">In and Around Yellowstone Park</a></p> +<p><a href="#Marvel">A Marvel of Magnificence</a></p> +<p><a href="#Rail">Climbing Pike's Peak by Rail</a></p> +<p><a href="#Hieroglyphic">Hieroglyphic Memoirs of Past +Ages</a></p> +<p><a href="#Steamer">A Fin de Siecle Pleasure Steamer</a></p> +<p><a href="#Whaleback">Whaleback Steamer on the Lakes</a></p> +<p><a href="#Tacoma">Two Views of Mount Tacoma</a></p> +<p><a href="#Southern">A Restful Southern Home</a></p> +<p><a href="#June">An Afternoon in June</a></p> +<p><a href="#Tropical">A Tropical Scene</a></p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>MY NATIVE LAND.</h1> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c1" id="c1">CHAPTER I.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>OUR NATION'S BIRTH.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Story of Liberty Bell--Impartial Opinions on the +Revolutionary War--The Shot that was Heard Around the World--The +First Committee of Safety--A Defeat which Equaled a +Victory--Washington's Earnestness--To Congress on Horseback--The +First 4th of July Celebration.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>It was not until April 19th, 1775, that the shot was fired which +was "heard around the world." But the struggle for American +Independence was really started nearly a quarter of a century +earlier, when on the afternoon of August 27th, 1753, Liberty Bell +was rung to call together the Assembly of the Province of +Pennsylvania.</p> +<p>In the old days of town meetings, training days, town schools +and Puritans, bells took a more prominent part in public affairs +than they do to-day. It was usual to call the people together for +purposes of deliberation by means of a village or town bell, and of +these bells the one to which we refer was the most important and +interesting. Liberty Bell is well named. It was ordered in the year +1751, and it was delivered a year later. Shortly afterwards, it +cracked, and had to be recast, but in June, 1753, it was finally +hung in the Pennsylvania State House at Philadelphia. It has never +been removed from the building except on two occasions. The first +of these was in 1777, when it was taken to Allentown for safety, +and the second in 1885, when it was exhibited at New Orleans.</p> +<p>This bell, which sounded the death-blow to tyranny and +oppression, was first rung to call together the Assembly, which +immediately resolved to insist upon certain rights which had been +denied the colonists by the British Crown. Eighteen months later, +it was again rung to announce the meeting at which the rights of +the colonists were sternly defined and insisted upon. In 1765, it +convened the meeting of the Assembly at which it was resolved to be +represented at the Congress of the Colonies in New York, and a +month later it was muffled and tolled when the "Royal Charlotte" +arrived, bearing the much hated stamps, whose landing was not +permitted. Again it rang muffled, when the Stamp Act went into +operation, and when the people publicly burned stamp papers. In +1768, the Liberty Bell called a meeting of the men of Philadelphia, +who protested once again against the oppression of government +without representation. In 1771, it called the Assembly together to +petition the King of England for the repeal of the duty on tea, and +two years later it summoned together the largest crowd ever seen in +Philadelphia up to that date. At that meeting it was resolved that +the ship "Polly," loaded with tea, should not be allowed to +land.</p> +<p>In 1774, the bell was muffled and tolled on the closing of the +Port of Boston, and in the following year it convened the memorable +meeting following the battle of Lexington. On this occasion 8,000 +people assembled in the State House yard and unanimously agreed to +associate for the purpose of defending, with arms, their lives, +liberty and property against all attempts to deprive them of them. +In June, 1776, Liberty Bell announced the submission to Congress of +the draft of the Declaration of Independence, and on July 4th of +the same year, the same bell announced the signing of the +Declaration. On July 8th of the same year, the bell was tolled +vigorously for the great proclamation of America's Independence. +The tolling was suspended while the Declaration was read, and was +once more rung when that immortal document had been thus formally +promulgated.</p> +<p>In April, 1783, Liberty Bell rang the proclamation of Peace, and +on July 4th, 1826, it ushered in the year of Jubilee.</p> +<p>The last tolling of the bell was in July, 1835, when, while +slowly tolling, and without any apparent reason, the bell, which +had played such an important part in the War of Independence, and +in the securing of liberty for the people of this great country, +parted through its side, making a large rent, which can still be +clearly seen. It was as though the bell realized that its great +task was accomplished, and that it could leave to other and younger +bells, the minor duties which remained to be performed.</p> +<p>This is not a history of the United States, but is rather a +description of some of the most interesting and remarkable features +to be found in various parts of it. It is difficult, however, to +describe scenes and buildings without at least brief historical +reference, and as we present an excellent illustration of the +apartment in which the Declaration of Independence was signed, we +are compelled to make a brief reference to the circumstances and +events which preceded that most important event in the world's +history.</p> +<p>As we have seen, the conflict between the home country and the +colonies commenced long before there was any actual outbreak. As +Mr. Thomas Wentworth Higginson so graphically expresses it, the +surrender of Canada to England by France in 1763 suddenly opened +men's eyes to the fact that British America had become a country so +large as to make England seem ridiculously small. Even the +cool-headed Dr. Franklin, writing that same year to Mary Stevenson +in London, spoke of England as "that stone in a brook, scarce +enough of it above water to keep one's shoes dry." A far-seeing +French statesman of the period looked at the matter in the same +way. Choiseul, the Prime Minister who ceded Canada, claimed +afterwards that he had done it in order to destroy the British +nation by creating for it a rival. This assertion was not made till +ten years later, and may very likely have been an afterthought, but +it was destined to be confirmed by the facts.</p> +<p>We have now to deal with the outbreak of a contest which was, +according to the greatest of the English statesmen of the period, +"a most accursed, wicked, barbarous, cruel, unnatural, unjust, and +diabolical war." No American writer ever employed to describe it a +combination of adjectives so vigorous as those brought together by +the elder Pitt, afterwards Lord Chatham. The rights for which +Americans fought seemed to him to be the common rights of +Englishmen, and many Englishmen thought the same.</p> +<p>On the other hand, we are now able to do justice to those +American Loyalists who honestly believed that the attempt at +independence was a mad one, and who sacrificed all they had rather +than rebel against their King. Massachusettensis, the well-known +Tory pamphleteer, wrote that the annals of the world had not been +deformed with a single instance of so unnatural, so causeless, so +wanton, so wicked a rebellion.</p> +<p>These strong epithets used on both sides show how strangely +opinions were divided as to the rebellion and its causes. Some of +the first statesmen of England defended the colonists, and some of +the best known men in the colonies defended England.</p> +<p>The City of Boston at this time had a population of about +seventeen thousand, as compared with some half a million to-day. In +its garrison there were three thousand British troops, and the laws +of Parliament were enforced rigidly. The city suffered temporary +commercial death in consequence, and there were the most vigorous +efforts made to prevent an open outbreak of hostilities. In +January, 1775, a conflict was barely averted at Marshfield, and in +the following month the situation was so strained at Salem that +nothing but great forbearance and presence of mind on the part of +the colonists prevented bloodshed. The Boston massacre of less than +five years before was still uppermost in men's thoughts, and it was +determined that the responsibility of the first shot in the war, if +war there must be, should rest with the Royal troops.</p> +<p>Accordingly, the colonists accepted insult and abuse until they +were suspected by the British troops of cowardice. One officer +wrote home telling his friends that there was no danger of war, +because the colonists were bullies, but not fighters, adding that +any two regiments ought to be decimated which could not beat the +entire force arrayed against them. But the conflict could not be +long delayed. It was on April 18th, 1775, that Paul Revere rode his +famous ride. He had seen the two lights in a church steeple in +Boston, which had been agreed upon as a signal that the British +troops were about to seize the supplies of the patriots at Concord. +Sergeant Monroe's caution against making unnecessary noise, was met +by his rejoinder, "You will have noise enough here before long--the +regulars are coming out."</p> +<p>Then he commenced his ride for life, or, rather, for the lives +of others. We all know the result of his ride, and how church bells +were tolled and signal shots fired to warn the people that the +soldiers were coming. It was a night of tumult and horror, no one +knowing what brutality they had to expect from the now enraged +British soldiers. The women of the towns, warned by the +pre-arranged signals, hurried their children from their homes, and +fled to farm houses, and even barns in the vicinity. Before +daybreak the British troops had reached Lexington Green. Here they +found Captain Parker and 38 men standing up before twenty times +that number of armed troops, indifferent as to their fate, but +determined to protect their cause and their friends. The Captain's +words have passed into history. They took the form of an order to +the men:</p> +<p>"Don't fire unless you are fired on; but, if they want a war, +let it begin here."</p> +<p>History tells us of few such unequal contests as this. The +troops fired on the gallant little band, and seven of their number +were killed. The fight at Concord followed, when 450 Americans met +the British troops at the North Bridge, where</p> +<center><tt> "Once the embattled farmers +stood, <br /> +And fired the shot heard around the world."</tt></center> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>The British detachment was beaten back in disorder, but the main +body was too strong to be attacked. The minute men, however, made a +most magnificent fight, and at the close of the day they had killed +273 British soldiers, only 93 of their own number being among the +killed or missing.</p> +<p>Thus commenced the War of Independence, the event being +described by Dr. Joseph Warren in a document of sufficient interest +to warrant its reproduction in full.</p> +<p>"The barbarous murders committed on our innocent brethren," +wrote the doctor, "have made it absolutely necessary that we +immediately raise an army to defend our wives and our children from +the butchering hands of an inhuman soldiery, who, incensed at the +obstacles they met with in their bloody progress, and enraged at +being repulsed from the field of slaughter, will, without the least +doubt, take the first opportunity in their power to ravage this +devoted country with fire and sword. We conjure you, therefore, by +all that is dear, by all that is sacred, that you give all +assistance possible in forming an army. Our all is at stake. Death +and devastation are the instant consequences of delay. Every moment +is infinitely precious. An hour lost may deluge our country in +blood, and entail perpetual slavery upon the few of your posterity +who may survive the carnage. We beg and entreat, as you will answer +to your country, to your own consciences, and, above all, as you +will answer to God himself, that you will hasten and encourage, by +all possible means, the enlistment of men to form an army, and send +them forward to headquarters at Cambridge, with that expedition +which the vast importance and instant urgency of the affair +demand."</p> +<p>Two days after the fight, the Massachusetts Committee of Safety +resolved to enlist 8,000 men, an event which our old friend Liberty +Bell celebrated by a vigorous tolling. All over the colonies a +spirit of determination to resist spread like lightning, and the +shot that was heard around the world was certainly heard very +distinctly in every nook and corner of New England, and of the old +Atlantic States. Naturally, there was at first a lack of +concentration and even of discipline; but what was lacking in these +features was more than made up for by bravery and determination. As +John Adams wrote in 1818, the army at Cambridge at this time was +not a National army, for there was no nation. It was not even an +army of the United Colonies, because the Congress at Philadelphia +had not adopted or acknowledged the army at Cambridge. It was not +even the New England army, for each State had its separate armies, +which had united to imprison the British army in Boston. There was +not even the Commander-in-Chief of the allied armies.</p> +<p>These anomalies, of course, righted themselves rapidly. Gage's +proclamation of martial law expedited the battle at Bunker Hill, +which was brought about by the impatience of the British troops, +and by the increased confidence among the colonists, resulting from +the fights at Lexington and Concord. It is true, of course, that +the untrained American troops failed to vanquish the British army +at Bunker Hill, but the monument at that spot celebrates the fact +that for two hours the attacks of the regulars were withstood. A +prominent English newspaper described the battle as one of +innumerable errors on the part of the British. As William Tudor +wrote so graphically, "The Ministerial troops gained the hill, but +were victorious losers. A few more such victories and they are +undone." Many writers have been credited with the authorship of a +similar sentiment, written from the American standpoint. "It is +true that we were beaten, but it will not take many such defeats to +accomplish a magnificent victory."</p> +<p>What began to be known as the great American army increased in +strength. It was adopted by Congress, and George Washington placed +in command. Under the historic elm tree at Cambridge, Mass., which +was the scene of so many important councils in the first hours of +the life of the United States, he assumed the authority bestowed +upon him with this office, and a week later he held a council with +his officers. He found some 17,000 men at his command, whom he +described as a mixed multitude of people under very little +discipline.</p> +<p>William Emerson, grandfather of the great poet, in a soliloquy +on the strange turn events had taken, said "Who would have thought, +twelve months past, that all Cambridge and Charleston would be +covered over with American camps and cut up into forts and +entrenchments, and all the lands, fields and orchards laid common, +with horses and cattle feeding on the choicest mowing land, and +large parks of well-regulated locusts cut down for firewood. This, +I must say, looks a little melancholy. It is very diverting to walk +among the camps. They are as different in their look as the owners +are in their dress, and every tent is a portraiture of the temper +and tastes of the persons who encamp in it. Some are made of boards +and some of sailcloth; some partly of one and some partly of the +other; again, others are made of stone and turf, brick or brush. +Some are thrown up in a hurry, others curiously wrought with doors +and windows, done with wreaths and withes, in the manner of a +basket. Some are proper tents, looking like the regular camp of the +enemy. In these are the Rhode Islanders, who are furnished with +tent equipages and everything in the most exact English style. +However, I think this great variety is rather a beauty than a +blemish in the army."</p> +<p>As was to be expected, there was more or less of a lack of +harmony and unity among the companies of men collected together to +form an army to fight for liberty. History tells us that there was +even a little jealousy between the four New England colonies. There +was also a good deal of distrust of Washington. It was argued that +at least one-third of the class from which he came had Tory and +Royalist inclinations, and what guarantee had they that Washington +was not one of their number? Washington himself found that those +who styled themselves in old country parlance "The Gentry," were +loyal to King George rather than to the colonies, and while his own +men were inclined, at times, to doubt the sincerity of the Father +of his Country, the very men with whom he was suspected of being in +sympathy were denouncing him with vigor.</p> +<p>Washington, to his lasting credit be it said, was indifferent +both to praise and censure. Seeing that discipline was the one +thing needful, he commenced to enforce it with an iron hand. He +declined any remuneration, and gave his services freely to the +cause. He found himself short of ammunition, and several times he +lost a number of his men. In the spring of 1776, Washington went to +New York with his Continental army. Here he found new difficulties, +and met with a series of mishaps. The failure of the advance into +Canada during the winter had hurt materially, but the bravery of +the troops in the Carolinas came as a grand encouragement.</p> +<p>We need not trace further the progress of the war, or note how, +through many discouragements and difficulties, the cause of right +was made to triumph over the cause of might. We will pass on to +note a few of the interesting facts in connection with the signing +of the Declaration of Independence. To-day, our Senators and +Congressmen travel to the National Capital in Pullman cars, +surrounded by every luxury that wealth and influence can bring +them.</p> +<p>In the days of the Continental Congress it required a good deal +more nerve to fulfill one's duty. The delegate had to journey to +Congress on horseback. Sometimes he could find a little country inn +at which he could sleep at night, but at others he had to camp in +the open as best he could. Frequently a friendly warning would +cause him to make a detour of several miles in order to escape some +threatened danger, and, altogether, his march to the capital was +far from being triumphant.</p> +<p>At this particular period the difficulties were more than +usually great. The delegates arrived at Philadelphia jaded and +tired. They found stable room for their horses, made the best +toilet possible, and found their way at once to Independence Hall, +where opinions were exchanged. On the 7th of June, Richard Henry +Lee of Virginia submitted a series of resolutions, under the +instructions of the Virginia Assembly--resolutions which, it may be +stated, pledged the colonies to carry on the war until the English +were entirely driven out of the country. Congress declared +deliberately that the United States was absolved from all +allegiance to the British Crown, and it then proceeded to burn its +bridges, by declaring the expediency of taking effectual measures +for forming foreign alliances. John Adams seconded the resolutions, +which were not passed without debate.</p> +<p>Delegates from New York, Pennsylvania and South Carolina opposed +the proposition very vigorously, one member stating that it +required the impudence of a New Englander for them, in their +disjointed state, to propose a treaty to a nation now at peace; +that no reason could be assigned for pressing this measure but the +reason of every madman--a show of spirit. John Adams defended the +resolutions, claiming that they proclaimed objects of the most +stupendous magnitude, in which the lives and liberties of millions +yet unborn were infinitely interested. Finally, the consideration +was postponed, to be passed almost unanimously on July 2d. John +Adams was most enthusiastic over this result, and, writing to his +wife on the subject, he said:</p> +<p>"The 2d day of July, 1776, will be the most memorable epoch in +the history of America. I am apt to believe that it will be +celebrated by succeeding generations as the great anniversary +festival. It ought to be commemorated as a day of deliverance, by +solemn acts of devotion to God Almighty, from one end of the +continent to the other, from this time forward, forevermore."</p> +<p>But although the day referred to by John Adams saw the thirteen +colonies become independent States, it is July the 4th that the +country celebrates. On that day the Declaration of Independence was +promulgated. This marvelous document was prepared by Jefferson in a +small brick house, which then stood out in the fields, but which is +now known as the southwest corner of Market and Seventh Streets, +Philadelphia. It is situated within about four hundred yards of +Independence Square. In his little room in this house, on a very +small writing desk, which is still in existence, Jefferson drafted +the title deed of our liberties. He wrote without reference of any +kind, merely placing upon paper the succession of thoughts which +had been paramount in his mind for years. In the original document, +as submitted by Jefferson, there appeared a stern condemnation of +the "piratical warfare against human nature itself," as slavery was +described. This was stricken out by Congress, and finally the +document, as amended, was adopted by the vote of twelve colonies, +New York declining to vote.</p> +<p>We give an illustration of the Interior of Independence Hall. +Here it was that the Declaration was signed. According to some +authorities the signing did not take place on July 4th, while +according to others it did. Some records seem to show that +fifty-four of the fifty-six names were attached to the parchment on +August 2d. Jefferson frequently stated that the signing of the +Declaration was hastened by a very trivial circumstance. Near the +Hall there was a large stable, where flies abounded. All the +delegates wore silk stockings, and were thus in a condition to be +easily annoyed by flies. The heat was intolerable, and a tremendous +invasion by the little pests, who were not retarded by fly screens +or mosquito bars, drove the legislators almost frantic, and caused +them to append their signatures to the document with almost +indecent haste.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0367.jpg" name="Independence" id="Independence"><img src= +"images/m0367t.jpg" alt= +"Interior of Independence Hall, Philadelphia" /></a> +<h4>Interior of Independence Hall, Philadelphia</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>However this may be, the Declaration was finally signed, and +Liberty Bell proclaimed the fact to all within hearing. John +Hancock, we are told, referred to his almost schoolboy signature +with a smile, saying that John Bull could read his name without +spectacles. Franklin is said to have remarked that they must all +hang together, or else most assuredly they would all hang +separately--a play upon words showing that the patriot's sense of +humor was too admirably developed to be dimmed even by an event of +this magnitude.</p> +<p>There were rejoicings on every hand that the great act had been +accomplished. A very pleasing story tells of how an aged +bell-ringer waited breathlessly to announce to waking thousands the +vote of Congress. This story has since been denied, and it seems +evident that the vote was not announced until the following day, +when circulars were issued to the people. On July 6th, the +Declaration was printed in a Philadelphia newspaper, and on the +8th, John Nixon read the Declaration in the yard of Independence +Hall. On the same day, the Royal Arms over the door of the Supreme +Court Room were torn down, and the trophies thus secured +burned.</p> +<p>The first 4th of July celebration of which we have any record, +took place two years after the signing. General Howe had left the +city shortly before, and every one was feeling bright and happy. In +the diary of one of the old patriots who took part in this unique +celebration, appears the following quaint, and even picturesque, +description of the events of the day:</p> +<p>"On the glorious 4th of July (1778), I celebrated in the City +Tavern, with my brother delegates of Congress and a number of other +gentlemen, amounting, in whole, to about eighty, the anniversary of +Independency. The entertainment was elegant and well conducted. +There were four tables spread; two of them extended the whole +length of the room; the other two crossed them at right angles. At +the end of the room, opposite the upper table, was erected an +Orchestra. At the head of the upper table, and at the President's +right hand, stood a large baked pudding, in the center of which was +planted a staff, on which was displayed a crimson flag, in the +midst of which was this emblematic device: An eye, denoting +Providence; a label, on which was inscribed, 'An appeal to Heaven;' +a man with a drawn sword in his hand, and in the other the +Declaration of Independence, and at his feet a scroll inscribed, +'The declaratory acts.' As soon as the dinner began, the music, +consisting of clarionets, hautboys, French horns, violins and +bass-viols, opened and continued, making proper pauses, until it +was finished. Then the toasts, followed by a discharge of +field-pieces, were drank, and so the afternoon ended. On the +evening there was a cold collation and a brilliant exhibition of +fireworks. The street was crowded with people during the +exhibition.</p> +<p>"What a strange vicissitude in human affairs! These, but a few +years since colonies of Great Britain, are now free, sovereign, and +independent States, and now celebrate the anniversary of their +independence in the very city where, but a day or two before, +General Howe exhibited his ridiculous Champhaitre."</p> +<p>Independence Hall remains to-day in a marvelous state of +preservation. At the great Centennial Exposition, held to celebrate +the hundredth anniversary of the events to which we have alluded in +this chapter, tens of thousands of people passed through the room +in which the Declaration of Independence was signed, and gazed with +mingled feelings upon the historical bell, which, although it had +long outlived its usefulness, had in days gone by done such grand +proclaiming of noble truth, sentiment and action. Up to quite a +recent date, justice was administered in the old building, but most +of the courts have now been moved to the stately structure modern +Philadelphia is now erecting at the cost of some $16,000,000.</p> +<p>Independence Hall and Independence Square are lovingly cared +for, and visitors from all nations are careful to include them both +in their tour of sight-seeing while in this country. Within the +Hall they find old parchments and Eighteenth Century curiosities +almost without number, and antiquarians find sufficient to interest +and amuse them for several days in succession. Every lover of his +native land, no matter what that land may be, raises his hat in +reverence when in this ancient and memory-inspiring building, and +he must be thoughtless, indeed, who can pass through it without +paying at least a mental tribute of respect to the memories of the +men who were present at the birth of the greatest nation the world +has ever seen, and who secured for the people of the United States +absolute liberty.</p> +<p>The illustration of the interior of Independence Hall on page +17, was furnished for use in this work by the National Company of +St. Louis, publishers of "Our Own Country," a large work +descriptive of a tour throughout the most picturesque sections of +the United States. The letter-press in "Our Own Country" was +written by the author of this work, and it is one of the finest +tributes to the picturesqueness of America that has ever been +published. Other illustrations in this work were also kindly +supplied by the same publishing house.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c2" id="c2">CHAPTER II.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THE WITCHES OF SALEM.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Relic of Religious Bigotry--Parson Lawson's Tirade Against +Witchcraft--Extraordinary Court Records of Old Puritan +Days--Alleged Supernatural Conjuring--A Man and his Wife both put +to Death--Crushed for Refusing to Plead--A Romance of the Old Days +of Witch Persecution.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Among the curiosities of New England shown to tourists and +visitors, is the original site of some of the extraordinary trials +and executions for witchcraft in the town of Salem, now known as +Danvers, Mass. Looking back upon the events of two hundred years +ago, the prosecution of the alleged witches appears to us to have +been persecution of the most infamous type. The only justification +for the stern Puritans is the fact that they inherited their ideas +of witchcraft and its evils from their forefathers, and from the +country whence most of them came.</p> +<p>One of the earliest precepts of religious bigotry was, "Thou +shalt not allow a witch to live," and from time immemorial +witchcraft appears to have been a capital offense. It is on record +that thousands of people have, from time to time, been legally +murdered for alleged intercourse and leaguing with the Evil One. +The superstition seems to have gained force rather than lost it by +the spread of early Christianity. As a rule, the victims of the +craze were women, and the percentage of aged and infirm women was +always very large. One of the greatest jurists of England, during +the Seventeenth Century, condemned two young girls to the gallows +for no other offense than the alleged crime of having exerted a +baneful influence over certain victims, and having, what would be +called in certain districts, "hoodooed" them.</p> +<p>In Scotland the craze was carried to still further lengths. To +be accused of witchcraft was to be condemned as a matter of course, +and the terrible death of burning at the stake was the invariable +sentence. Most of the victims made imaginary confessions, +preferring to die at once than to be tortured indefinitely. In the +year 1716, a wealthy lady and her nine-year-old daughter were +hanged for witchcraft, and even thirty or forty years later the +records of Great Britain are sullied by another similar case of +persecution.</p> +<p>These unsavory records are given in order to correct a +misapprehension as to the part the old Puritans took in the +persecutions. Many people seriously believed that the idea of +witchcraft, as a capital offense, originated in Salem, and +attribute to the original witch-house the reputation of having +really given birth to a new superstition and a new persecution. As +we have seen, this is entirely erroneous. The fact that the +Puritans copied a bad example, instead of setting a new one, +should, at least, be remembered in palliation of the unfortunate +blot upon their otherwise clean escutcheon.</p> +<p>In the year 1704, one Deodat Lawson, minister at Salem during +the last sixteen or seventeen years of the Seventeenth Century, +published a remarkable work, entitled "Christ's Fidelity, the only +Shield against Satan's Malignity." In this work appears a record of +the so-called calamity at Salem, which the author tells us was +afflicted, about the year 1692, "with a very sore and grievous +infliction, in which they had reason to believe that the Sovereign +and Holy God was pleased to permit Satan and his instruments to +affright and afflict those poor mortals in such an astonishing and +unusual manner."</p> +<p>The record of Parson Lawson is so realistic and emblematic of +the times in which he lived, that we reproduce some of his own +expressions. Thus, he says, "Now, I having for some time before +attended the work of the Ministry in Salem Village, the report of +those great afflictions came quickly to my notice, the more so, +because the first person afflicted was in the minister's family, +who succeeded me after I was removed from them. In pity, therefore, +to my Christian friends and former acquaintance there, I was much +concerned about them, frequently consulted with them, and (by +Divine assistance) prayed for them; but especially my concern was +augmented when it was reported at an examination of a person +suspected for witchcraft, that my wife and daughter, who died three +years before, were sent out of the world under the malicious +operations of the infernal powers, as is more fully represented in +the following remarks. I did then desire, and was also desired by +some concerned in the court, to be there present that I might hear +what was alleged in that respect, observing, therefore, when I was +amongst them, that the case of the afflicted was very amazing and +deplorable, and the charges brought against the accused such as +were grounds of suspicion, yet very intricate and difficult to draw +up right conclusions about them. They affirmed that they saw the +ghosts of several departed persons, who, at their appearing, did +instigate them to discover such as (they said) were instruments to +hasten their death, threatening sorely to afflict them if they did +not make it known to the magistrates.</p> +<p>"They did affirm at the examination, and again at the trial of +an accused person, that they saw the ghosts of his two wives (to +whom he had acted very ill in their lives, as was proved by several +testimonies), and also that they saw the ghosts of my wife and +daughter (who died above three years before), and they did affirm +that when the very ghosts looked on the prisoner at the bar they +looked red, as if the blood would fly out of their faces with +indignation at him. The manner of it was thus: Several afflicted +being before the prisoner at the bar, on a sudden they fixed all +their eyes together on a certain place on the floor before the +prisoner, neither moving their eyes nor bodies for some few +minutes, nor answering to any question which was asked them. So +soon as that trance was over, some being out of sight and hearing, +they were all, one after another, asked what they saw, and they did +all agree that they saw those ghosts above mentioned. I was present +and heard and saw the whole of what passed upon that account during +the trial of that person who was accused to be the instrument of +Satan's malice therein.</p> +<p>"Sundry pins have been taken out the wrists and arms of the +afflicted, and one, in time of examination of a suspected person, +had a pin run through both her upper and lower lip when she was +called to speak, yet no apparent festering followed thereupon after +it was taken out. Some of the afflicted, as they were striving in +their fits in open court, have (by invisible means) had their +wrists bound together with a real cord, so as it could hardly be +taken off without cutting. Some afflicted have been found with +their arms tied and hanged upon a hook, from whence others have +been forced to take them down, that they might not expire in that +posture. Some afflicted have been drawn under tables and beds by +undiscerned force, so as they could hardly be pulled out. And one +was drawn half way over the side of a well, and with much +difficulty recovered back again. When they were most grievously +afflicted, if they were brought to the accused, and the suspected +person's hand but laid upon them, they were immediately relieved +out of their tortures; but if the accused did but look on them, +they were immediately struck down again. Wherefore, they used to +cover the face of the accused while they laid their hands on the +afflicted, and then it obtained the desired issue. For it hath been +experienced (both in examinations and trials) that so soon as the +afflicted came in sight of the accused, they were immediately cast +into their fits. Yea, though the accused were among the crowd of +people, unknown to the sufferers, yet on the first view they were +struck down; which was observed in a child of four or five years of +age, when it was apprehended that so many as she would look upon, +either directly or by turning her head, were immediately struck +into their fits.</p> +<p>"An iron spindle of a woolen wheel, being taken very strangely +out of an house at Salem Village, was used by a spectre as an +instrument of torture to a sufferer, not being discernible to the +standers by until it was by the said sufferer snatched out of the +spectre's hand, and then it did immediately appear to the persons +present to be really the same iron spindle.</p> +<p>"Sometimes, in their fits, they have had their tongues drawn out +of their mouths to a fearful length, their heads turned very much +over their shoulders, and while they have been so strained in their +fits, and had their arms and legs, etc., wrested as if they were +quite dislocated, the blood hath gushed plentifully out of their +mouths for a considerable time together; which some, that they +might be satisfied that it was real blood, took upon their finger +and rubbed on their other hand. I saw several together thus +violently strained and bleeding in their fits, to my very great +astonishment that my fellow mortals should be so grievously +distressed by the invisible powers of darkness. For certainly all +considerate persons who beheld these things must needs be convinced +their motions in their fits were preternatural and involuntary, +both as to the manner, which was so strange, as a well person could +not (at least without great pain) screw their bodies into; and as +to the violence, also, they were preternatural motions, being much +beyond the ordinary force of the same persons when they were in +their right minds. So that, being such grievous sufferers, it would +seem very hard and unjust to censure them of consenting to or +holding any voluntary converse or familiarity with the devil.</p> +<p>"Some of them were asked how it came to pass that they were not +affrighted when they saw the Black-man. They said they were at +first, but not so much afterwards. Some of them affirmed they saw +the Black-man sit on the gallows, and that he whispered in the ears +of some of the condemned persons when they were just ready to be +turned off--even while they were making their last speech.</p> +<p>"Some of them have sundry times seen a White-man appearing among +the spectres, and as soon as he appeared, the Black-Witches +vanished; they said this White-man had often foretold them what +respite they should have from their fits; as, sometimes, a day or +two or more, which fell out accordingly. One of the afflicted said +she saw him in her fit, and was with him in a glorious place, which +had no candle or sun, yet was full of light and brightness, where +there was a multitude in 'white, glittering robes,' and they sang +the song in Rev. v, 9. She was both to leave that place and said: +'How long shall I stay here? Let me be along with you.' She was +grieved she could stay no longer in that place and company.</p> +<p>"A young woman that was afflicted at a fearful rate had a +spectre appear to her with a white sheet wrapped about it, not +visible to the standers by, until this sufferer (violently striving +in her fit) snatched at, took hold and tore off the corner of that +sheet. Her father, being by her, endeavored to lay hold of it with +her, that she might retain what she had gotten; but at the passing +away of the spectre, he had such a violent twitch of his hand as it +would have been torn off. Immediately thereupon appeared in the +sufferer's hand the corner of a sheet, a real cloth, visible to the +spectators, which (as it is said) remains still to be seen."</p> +<p>It was proved, the records of the time continue, by substantial +evidences against one person accused, that he had such an unusual +strength (though a very little man) that he could hold out a gun +with one hand, behind the lock, which was near seven foot in the +barrel, being such as a lusty man could command with both hands, +after the usual manner of shooting. It was also proved that he +lifted barrels of metal and barrels of molasses out of a canoe +alone; and that, putting his fingers into a barrel of molasses, +full within a finger's length, according to custom, he carried it +several paces. And that he put his finger into the muzzle of a gun +which was more than five foot in the barrel, and lifted up the butt +end thereof, lock, stock and all, without any visible help to raise +it. It was also testified that, being abroad with his wife and his +wife's brother, he occasionally stayed behind, letting his wife and +her brother walk forward; but, suddenly coming up with them, he was +angry with his wife for what discourse had passed betwixt her and +her brother. They wondering how he should know it, he said: "I know +your thoughts," at which expression they, being amazed, asked him +how he could do that, he said: "My God whom I serve makes known +your thoughts to me."</p> +<p>Some affirmed that there were some hundreds of the society of +witches, considerable companies of whom were affirmed to muster in +arms by beat of drum. In time of examinations and trials, they +declared that such a man was wont to call them together from all +quarters to witch-meetings, with the sound of a diabolical +trumpet.</p> +<p>Being brought to see the prisoners at the bar, upon their +trials, they swore, in open court, that they had oftentimes seen +them at witch meetings, "where was feasting, dancing and jollity, +as also at devil sacraments, and particularly that they saw such a +man amongst the accursed crew, and affirming that he did minister +the sacrament of Satan to them, encouraging them to go on in their +way, and that they should certainly prevail. They said, also, that +such a woman was a deacon and served in distributing the diabolical +element. They affirmed that there were great numbers of the +witches."</p> +<p>With such sentiments as these prevailing, it is not at all +remarkable that the alleged witches were treated with continual and +conspicuous-brutality. One old lady of sixty, named Sarah Osburn, +was hounded to death for being a witch. The poor old lady, who was +in fairly good circumstances, and appears to have been of good +character, was put upon her trial for witchcraft. For three days, +more or less ridiculous testimony was given against her, and a +number of little children, who had evidently been carefully +coached, stated upon the stand that Mrs. Osburn had bewitched them. +She was called upon by the court to confess, which she declined to +do, stating that she was rather a victim than a criminal. She was +sent to jail, and treated with so much brutality that she died +before it was possible to execute her in the regulation manner.</p> +<p>Bridget Bishop was another of the numerous victims. The usual +charges were brought against her, and she was speedily condemned to +death. Before the sentence was executed, the custom of taking +council with the local clergy was followed. These good men, while +they counseled caution in accepting testimony, humbly recommended +the government to the speedy and vigorous prosecution of such as +"had rendered themselves obnoxious by infringing the wholesome +statutes of the English Nation for the detection of witchcraft." +Following this recommendation, double and treble hangings took +place, and there was enough brutality to appease the appetite of +the most vindictive and malicious.</p> +<p>Perhaps the most extraordinary record of witchcraft persecution +at the end of the Seventeenth Century was that of Giles Corey and +his wife Martha. The singular feature of the case is, that the +husband had been one of the most enthusiastic declaimers against +the unholy crime of witchcraft, while his good wife had been rather +disposed to ridicule the idea, and to condemn the prosecutions as +persecutions. She did her best to prevent Giles from attending +trials, and one of the most serious charges against her was that on +one occasion she hid the family saddle, so as to prevent her lord +and master from riding to one of the examinations.</p> +<p>This attempt to assert woman's rights two hundred years ago was +resented very bitterly, and two enthusiastic witch-hunters were +sent to her house to entrap her into a confession. On the way they +made inquiries, which resulted in their being able to patch up a +charge against the woman for walking in ghostly attire during the +night. When the detectives called at the house she told them she +knew the object of their visit, but that she was no witch, and did +not believe there was such a thing. The mere fact of her knowing +the object of their visit was regarded as conclusive evidence +against her, although a fair-minded person would naturally suggest +that, in view of local sentiment, her guess was a very easy one. +The poor woman was immediately arrested and placed on trial. +Several little children were examined, and these shouted out in the +witness-stand, that when the afflicted woman bit her lip in her +grief, they were seized with bodily pains, which continued until +she loosened her teeth. The chronicles of the court tell us, with +much solemnity, that when the woman's hands were tied her victims +did not suffer, but the moment the cords were removed they had +fits.</p> +<p>Even her husband was called as a witness against her. His +evidence does not appear to have been very important or relevant. +But another witness, a Mrs. Pope, who appears to have been an +expert in these matters, and to have been called at nearly every +trial, took off her shoe in court and threw it at the prisoner's +head, an act of indecorum which was condoned on the ground of the +evident sincerity of the culprit. The poor woman was condemned, as +a matter of course, and when she was removed to jail, a deputation +from the church of which she was a member called upon her and +excommunicated her. She mounted the ladder which led to the gallows +with much dignity, and died without any attempt to prolong her life +by a confession.</p> +<p>The fate of her husband was still more terrible. Notwithstanding +his zeal, and the fact that he had given evidence against his own +wife, he was arrested, charged with a similar offense. Whether +hypnotic influences were exerted, or whether the examining justices +merely imagined things against the prisoner, cannot be known at +this time. The court records, however, state that while the +witnesses were on the stand, they were so badly afflicted with fits +and hurts, that the prisoner's hands had to be tied before they +could continue their testimony. Unlike his wife, the poor man did +not deny the existence of witchcraft, and merely whined out, in +reply to the magistrate's censure, that he was a poor creature and +could not help it. The evidence against him was very slight, +indeed, and he was remanded to jail, where he lay unmolested, and +apparently forgotten, for five or six months.</p> +<p>He was then excommunicated by his church, and brought before the +court again. Sojourn in jail seems to have made the old man +stubborn, for when he was once more confronted by his persecutors +he declined to plead, on the ground that there was no charge +against him. An old obsolete English law was revived against him, +and the terrible sentence was pronounced that for standing mute he +be remanded to the prison from whence he came and put into a low, +dark chamber. There he was to be laid on his back, on the bare +floor, without clothing. As great a weight of iron as he could bear +was to be placed upon his body, and there to remain. The first day +he was to have three morsels of bread, and on the second day three +draughts of water, to be selected from the nearest pool that could +be found. Thus was the diet to be alternated, day by day, until he +either answered his accusation or died.</p> +<p>On September 19th, 1692, death came as a happy relief to the +miserable man, who had begged the sheriff to add greater weights so +as to expedite the end. This is the only case on record of a man +having been "pressed to death" in New England for refusing to +plead, or for any other offense. There are a few cases on record +where this inhuman law was enforced previously in England, but it +was always regarded as a relic of mediaeval barbarity, and the fact +that it was revived in the witch persecutions is a very significant +one. After his death, an attempt was made to justify the act by the +statement that Corey himself had pressed a man to death. This +justification appears feeble, and to be without any corroborative +testimony.</p> +<p>Another very remarkable witch story has about it a tinge of +romance, although the main facts actually occurred as stated. A +sailor named Orcutt, left his sweetheart on one of his regular +voyages, promising to return at an early date to claim his bride. +The girl he left behind him, whose name was Margaret, appears to +have been a very attractive, innocent young lady, who suffered +considerably from the jealousy of a rival. Soon after the departure +of her lover, the witch difficulty arose, and the young girl was +much worried and grieved at what happened. On one occasion she +happened to say to a friend that she was sorry for the unfortunate +witches who were to be hanged on the following day. The friend +appears to have been an enemy in disguise, and, turning to +Margaret, told her that if she talked that way she would herself be +tried as a witch. As an evidence of how vindictive justice was at +this time, the poor girl was arrested by the sheriff on the +following day, in the name of the King and Queen, on a charge of +witchcraft. The young girl was led through the streets and jeered +at by the crowd. Arrived at the court, her alleged friend gave a +variety of testimony against her. The usual stories about aches and +pains were of course told. Some other details were added. Thus, +Margaret by looking at a number of hens had killed them. She had +also been seen running around at night in spectral attire. The poor +girl fainted in the dock, and this was regarded as a chastisement +from above, and as direct evidence of her guilt. She was removed to +the jail, where she had to lie on a hard bench, only to be dragged +back into court the following day, to be asked a number of +outrageous questions.</p> +<p>With sobs she protested her innocence, but as she did so, the +witnesses against her called out that they were in torment, and +that the very motion of the girl's lips caused them terrible pain. +She was sentenced to be hanged with eight other alleged witches two +days later, and was carried back, fainting, to her cell. In a few +minutes the girl was delirious, and began to talk about her lover, +and of her future prospects. Even her sister was not allowed to +remain with her during the night, and the frail young creature was +left to the tender mercies of heartless jailors.</p> +<p>A few hours before the time set for execution, young Orcutt +sailed into the harbor, and before daybreak he was at the house. +Here he learned for the first time the awful calamity which had +befallen his sweetheart in his absence. At 7 o'clock he was allowed +to enter the jail, with the convicted girl's sister. At the prison +door they were informed that the wicked girl had died during the +night. Knowing that there was no hope under any circumstances of +the sentence being remitted, the bereaved ones regarded the news as +good, and although they broke down with grief at the shipwreck of +their lives, they both realized that, to use the devout words of +the victim's sister, "The Lord had delivered her from the hands of +her enemies."</p> +<p>The record of brutality in connection with the witch agitation +might be continued almost without limit, for the number of victims +was very great. Visitors to Danvers to-day are often shown by local +guides where some of the tragedies of the persecution were +committed. The superstition was finally driven away by educational +enlightenment, and it seems astounding that it lasted as long as it +did. Two hundred years have nearly elapsed since the craze died +out, and it is but charitable to admit, that although many of the +witnesses must have been corrupt and perjured, the majority of +those connected with the cases were thoroughly in earnest, and that +although they rejoiced at the undoing of the ungodly, they +regretted very much being made the instruments of that undoing.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<a name="c3" id="c3"></a> +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>IN PICTURESQUE NEW YORK.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Some Local Errors Corrected--A Trip Down the Hudson River--The +Last of the Mohicans--The Home of Rip Van Winkle--The Ladies of +Vassar and their Home--West Point and its History--Sing Sing +Prison--The Falls of Niagara--Indians in New York State.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Residents in the older States of the East are frequently twitted +with their ignorance concerning the newer States of the West, and +of the habits and customs of those who, having taken Horace +Greeley's advice at various times, turned their faces toward the +setting sun, determined to take advantage of the fertility of the +soil, and grow up with the country of which they knew but +little.</p> +<p>It needs but a few days' sojourn in an Eastern city by a Western +man to realize how sublimely ignorant the New Englander is +concerning at least three-fourths of his native land. The writer +was, on a recent occasion, asked, in an Eastern city, how he +managed to get along without any of the comforts of civilization, +and whether he did not find it necessary to order all of his +clothing and comforts by mail from the East. When he replied that +in the larger cities, at any rate, of the West, there were retail +emporiums fully up to date in all matters of fashion and +improvement, and caterers who could supply the latest delicacies in +season at reasonable prices, an incredulous smile was the result, +and regret was expressed that local prejudice and pride should so +blind a man to the actual truth.</p> +<p>Yet there was no exaggeration whatever in the reply, as the +experienced traveler knows well. Neither Chicago nor St. Louis are +really in the West, so far as points of the compass are concerned, +both of these cities being hundreds of miles east of the +geographical center of the United States. But they are both spoken +of as "out West," and are included in the territory in which the +extreme Eastern man is apt to think people live on the coarsest +fare, and clothe themselves in the roughest possible manner. Yet +the impartial and disinterested New York or Boston man who visits +either of these cities speedily admits that he frequently finds it +difficult to believe that he is not in his own much loved city, so +close is the resemblance in many respects between the business +houses and the method of doing business. Denver is looked upon by +the average Easterner almost in the light of a frontier city, away +out in the Rockies, surrounded by awe-inspiring scenery, no doubt, +but also by grizzly bears and ferocious Indians. San Francisco is +too far away to be thought very intelligently, but a great many +people regard that home of wealth and elegance as another extreme +Western die-in-your-boots, rough-and-tumble city.</p> +<p>This ignorance, for it is ignorance rather than prejudice, +results from the mania for European travel, which was formerly a +characteristic of the Atlantic States, but which of recent years +has, like civilization, traveled West. The Eastern man who has made +money is much more likely to take his family on a European tour +than on a trip through his native country. He incurs more expense +by crossing the Atlantic, and although he adds to his store of +knowledge by traveling, he does not learn matter of equal +importance to him as if he had crossed the American continent and +enlightened himself as to the men and manners in its different +sections and States.</p> +<p>Nor is this sectional ignorance confined, by any means, to the +East. People in the West are apt to form an entirely erroneous +impression of Eastern States. The word, "East," to them conveys an +impression of dense population, overcrowding, and manufacturing +activity. That there are thousands and thousands of acres of scenic +grandeur, as well as farm lands, in some of the most crowded +States, is not realized, and that this is the case will be news to +many. Last year a party of Western people were traveling to New +York, and, on their way, ran through Pennsylvania, around the +picturesque Horse Shoe Curve in the Alleghenies, and along the +banks of the romantic and historic Susquehanna. A member of the +party was seen to be wrapped in thought for a long time. He was +finally asked what was worrying him.</p> +<p>"I was thinking," was his reply, "how singular it is that the +Republican party ran up a majority of something like a hundred +thousand at the election, and I was wondering where all the folks +came from who did the voting. I haven't seen a dozen houses in the +last hour."</p> +<p>Our friend was only putting into expression the thought which +was indulged in pretty generally by the entire crowd. Those who +were making the transcontinental trip for the first time marveled +at the expanse of open country, and the exquisite scenery through +which they passed; and they were wondering how they ever came to +think that the noise of the hammer and the smoke of the factory +chimney were part and parcel of the East, where they knew the +money, as well as the "wise men," came from. The object of this +book being to present some of the prominent features of all +sections of the United States, it is necessary to remove, as far as +possible, this false impression; and in order to do so, we propose +to give a brief description of the romantic and historic River +Hudson. This river runs through the great State of New York, +concerning which the greatest ignorance prevails. The State itself +is dwarfed, in common estimation, by the magnitude of its +metropolis, and if the Greater New York project is carried into +execution, and the limits of New York City extended so as to take +in Brooklyn and other adjoining cities, this feeling will be +intensified, rather than otherwise.</p> +<p>But "above the Harlem," to use an expression so commonly used +when a political contest is on, there are thousands of square miles +of what may be called "country," including picturesque mountains, +pine lands which are not susceptible of cultivation, and are +preserved for recreation and pleasure purposes, and fertile +valleys, divided up into homesteads and farms.</p> +<p>It is through country such as this that the River Hudson flows. +It rises in the Adirondack Mountains, some 300 miles from the sea, +and more than 4,000 feet above its level. It acts as a feeder and +outlet for numerous larger and smaller lakes. At first it is a +pretty little brook, almost dry in summer, but noisy and turbulent +in the rainy seasons. From Schroon Lake, near Saratoga, it receives +such a large quantity of water that it begins to put on airs. It +ceases to be a country brook and becomes a small river. A little +farther down, the bed of the river falls suddenly, producing falls +of much beauty, which vary in intensity and volume with the +seasons.</p> +<p>At Glens Falls the upper Hudson passes through a long defile, +over a precipice some hundred feet long. It was here that Cooper +received much of his inspiration, and one of the most startling +incidents in his "The Last of the Mohicans" is supposed to have +been enacted at the falls. When Troy is reached, the river takes +upon itself quite another aspect, and runs with singular +straightness almost direct to New York harbor. Tourists delight to +sail up the Hudson, and they find an immense quantity of scenery of +the most delightful character, with fresh discoveries at every +trip. Millionaires regard the banks of the Hudson as the most +suitable spots upon which to build country mansions and rural +retreats. Many of these mansions are surrounded by exquisitely kept +grounds and beautiful parterres, which are in themselves well worth +a long journey to see.</p> +<p>Beacon Island, a few miles below Albany, is pointed out to the +traveler as particularly interesting, because four counties corner +upon the river just across from it. The island has a history of +more than ordinary interest. It used to be presided over by a +patroon, who levied toll on all passing vessels. Right in the +neighborhood are original Dutch settlements, and the descendants of +the original immigrants hold themselves quite aloof from the +English-speaking public. They retain the language, as well as the +manners and customs, of Holland, and the tourist who strays among +them finds himself, for the moment, distinctly a stranger in a +strange land. The country abounds with legends and romances, and is +literally honeycombed with historic memories.</p> +<p>The town of Hudson, a little farther down the river, is +interesting because it was near here that Henry Hudson landed in +September, 1609. He was immediately surrounded by Indians, who gave +him an immense amount of information, and added to his store of +experiences quite a number of novel ones. Here is the mouth of the +Catskill River, with the wonderful Catskill Mountains in the rear. +It will be news, indeed, to many of our readers that in these wild +(only partially explored) mountains there are forests where bears, +wild cats and snakes abound in large numbers.</p> +<p>Many people of comparative affluence reside in the hills, where +there are hotels and pleasure resorts of the most costly character. +During the storms of winter these lovers of the picturesque find +themselves snowed in for several days at the time, and have a +little experience in the way of frontier and exploration life.</p> +<p>The sunrises in the Catskills are rendered uniquely beautiful by +the peculiar formation of the ground, and from the same reason the +thunder storms are often thrilling in character and awful in their +magnificence. Waterfalls of all sizes and kinds, brooks, with +scenery along the banks of every description, forests, meadows, and +lofty peaks make monotony impossible, and give to the Catskill +region an air of majesty which is not easy to describe on +paper.</p> +<p>Every visitor asks to be shown the immortalized bridge at Sleepy +Hollow, and as he gazes upon it he thinks of Washington Irving's +unrivaled description of this country. He speedily agrees with +Irving that every change of weather, and indeed every hour of the +day, produces some change in the magical hues and shapes of these +mountains, and they are regarded by all the good wives far and near +as perfect barometers. When the weather is fair and settled they +are clothed in blue and purple, and print their bold outlines on +the clear evening sky, but, sometimes, when the rear of the +landscape is clear and cloudless, they will gather a hood of gray +vapors which, in the last rays of the setting sun, will grow up +like a crown of glory.</p> +<p>Here it was that Rip Van Winkle is supposed to have lived and +slept, and astonished his old friends and neighbors, and their +descendants. The path along which Rip Van Winkle marched up the +mountain, prior to his prolonged sleep, is shown to the tourist, +who hears at his hotel, in the conveyance he hires for the day, and +among the very mountains themselves, countless local legends as to +Rip Van Winkle, and as to the percentage of fact and fiction in +Washington Irving's masterly production.</p> +<p>If he is antiquarian enough to desire it, he can be shown the +very spot upon which Rip Van Winkle laid himself down to sleep. +Local opinion differs as to the exact spot, but there is so much +faith displayed by the people that no one can doubt that they are +genuine in their beliefs and sincere in their convictions. The +tourist can also be shown the site of the old country inn, upon the +bench in front of which Rip Van Winkle sat and astonished the +natives by his extraordinary conversation, and his refusal to +believe that a generation had elapsed since he was in the town +last.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0369.jpg" name="Winkle" id="Winkle"><img src= +"images/m0369t.jpg" alt="A Memory of Rip Van Winkle" /></a> +<h4>A Memory of Rip Van Winkle</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The chair upon which Dame Van Winkle is supposed to have sat, +while she was berating her idle and incorrigible lord and master, +is also shown to the visitor, and the more credulous ones gaze with +interest upon a flagon which they are assured is the very one out +of which Rip Van Winkle drank. The only thing needed to complete +the illusion is the appearance of the old dog, which the man who +had so grievously overslept himself was sure would have recognized +him, had he put in his appearance.</p> +<p>It is almost impossible to outlive one's welcome in the Catskill +Mountains, or to wear one's self out with sight seeing, so many are +the novelties which greet the gaze. The Catskills are abounding +with traditions quite as interesting and extraordinary as the Rip +Van Winkle story. They were known originally as the "Mountains of +the Sky," a name given them by the Indians, who for so many +generations held them in undisputed possession. Hyde Peak, the +loftiest point in the Catskills, was regarded by the Indians as the +throne of the Great Spirit, and the Dutch settlers who crowded out +the Indians seem to have been almost as generous in their +superstitions and legends. These settlers dropped the name, +"Mountains of the Sky," and adopted the, to them, more euphonic one +of the Katzberg Mountains, from which the more modern name has been +adopted.</p> +<p>The village of Catskill deserves more than a passing notice. It +is the home of a large number of well-known people, including the +widows of many men whose names are famous in history. The old +Livingston Manor was located near the village, and a little farther +down is Barrytown, where the wealthy Astors have a palatial summer +resort. A little farther down the river are two towns with a +distinctly ancient and Dutch aspect. They were settled by the Dutch +over two hundred years ago, and there are many houses still +standing which were built last century, so strongly did our +forefathers construct their homes, and make them veritable castles +and impregnable fortresses.</p> +<p>Another very old town on the Hudson is the celebrated seat of +learning, Poughkeepsie. Of this, it has been said that there is +more tuition to the square inch than in any other town in the +world. The most celebrated of the educational institutions at this +point is the Vassar College, the first ladies' seminary in the +world, and the butt of so many jokes and sarcasms. Poughkeepsie is +not quite as old as the hills above it, but it is exceedingly +ancient. Here was held the celebrated State convention for the +ratification of the Federal Constitution, in which Alexander +Hamilton, Governor Clinton, and John Jay, and other men of immortal +names took part.</p> +<p>It is only comparatively recently that the first stone building +erected in this town was torn down, to make room for improvements, +after it had weathered storm and time in the most perfect manner +for more than a century and a quarter. At Newburgh, a few miles +farther south, an old gray mansion is pointed out to the visitor as +Washington's headquarters on several occasions during the +Revolution. Fortunately, the State has secured possession of the +house and protects it from the hands of the vandal.</p> +<p>This wonderful old house was built just a century and a half +ago. A hundred and twelve years ago Washington's army finally +disbanded from this point, and the visitor can see within the +well-preserved walls of this house the historical room, with its +seven doors, within which Washington and his generals held their +numerous conferences, and in which there are still to be found +almost countless relics of the Revolutionary War.</p> +<p>While sailing on the Hudson, a glimpse is obtained of West +Point, the great military school from which so many of America's +celebrated generals have graduated. West Point commands one of the +finest river passes in the country. The fort and chain stretched +across the river were captured by the British in 1777 (two years +after it was decided that West Point should be established a +military post), but were abandoned after Burgoyne's surrender. The +Continental forces then substituted stronger works. West Point thus +has a history running right back to the Revolutionary War, and the +ruins of Forts Clinton and Montgomery, which were erected in 1775, +are in the immediate vicinity.</p> +<p>There are 176 rooms in the cadet barrack. There is no attempt at +ornamentation, and the quarters are almost rigid in their +simplicity and lack of home comfort. Not only are the embryo +warriors taught the rudiments of drill and warfare, but they are +also given stern lessons in camp life. Each young man acts as his +own chambermaid, and has to keep his little room absolutely neat +and free from litter and dirt of any kind.</p> +<p>The West Point Chapel is of interest on account of the number of +tablets to be found in it, immortalizing many of the Revolutionary +heroes. A winding road leads up to the cemetery, where are resting +the remains of many other celebrated generals, including Winfield +Scott. The State Camp meets annually at Peekskill, another very +ancient town, replete with Revolutionary War reminiscences. It was +settled in the year 1764 by a Dutch navigator, from whom it takes +its name. Another house used by General Washington for headquarters +is to be found near the town, as well as St. Peter's Church, in +which the Father of his Country worshiped.</p> +<p>Tarrytown is another of the famous spots on the Hudson. Near +here Washington Irving lived, and on the old Sleepy Hollow road is +to be found the oldest religious structure in New York State. The +church was built by the Dutch settlers in the year 1699, and close +to it is the cemetery in which Washington Irving was interred. +Sunnyside, Irving's home, is a most interesting stone structure, +whose numerous gables are covered with ivy, the immense mass of +which has grown from a few slips presented to Irving by Sir Walter +Scott.</p> +<p>A sadder sight to the tourist on the Hudson, but one which is of +necessity full of interest, is the Sing Sing Prison, just below +Croton Point. In this great State jail an army of convicts are kept +busy manufacturing various articles of domestic use. The prison +itself takes its name from the Indian word "Ossining," which means +"stone upon stone." The village of Sing Sing, strange to say, +contains many charming residences, and the proximity of the State's +prison does not seem to have any particular effect on the spirits +and the ideas of those living in it.</p> +<p>Still further down the Hudson is Riverside Park, New York, the +scene of General Grant's tomb, which overlooks the lower section of +the river, concerning which we have endeavored to impart some +little information of an interesting character. Of the tomb, we +present a very accurate illustration.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0368.jpg" name="Grant" id="Grant"><img src= +"images/m0368t.jpg" alt= +"Tomb of General Grant, Riverside Park" /></a> +<h4>Tomb of General Grant, Riverside Park</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>While in New York State, the tourist, whether he be American or +European, is careful to pay a visit to the Niagara Falls, which +have been viewed by a greater number of people than any other scene +or wonder on the American continent. This fact is due, in part, to +the admirable railroad facilities which bring Niagara within easy +riding distance of the great cities of the East. It is also due, +very largely, to the extraordinary nature of the falls themselves, +and to the grandeur of the scene which greets the eye of the +spectator.</p> +<p>The River Niagara is a little more than thirty-three miles long. +In its short course it takes care of the overflow of Lakes +Superior, Michigan, Huron and Erie, and as it discharges the waters +of these lakes into Lake Ontario, it falls 334 feet, or more than +ten feet to the mile.</p> +<p>The rapids start some sixteen miles from Lake Erie. As the river +channel suddenly narrows, the velocity of the current increases +with great abruptness. The rapids are but a third of a mile in +length, during which distance there is a fall of fifty-two feet. +The boat caught in these rapids stands but a poor chance, as at the +end of the torrent the water dashes down a cataract over 150 feet +deep. The Canadian Fall passes over a rocky ledge of immense area, +and in the descent leaves a space with a watery roof, the space +being known as the "Cave of the Winds," with an entrance from the +Canadian side. The Canadian Fall has a sweep of 1,100 feet and is +considerably deeper than the other.</p> +<p>It is little more than a waste of words to endeavor to convey an +impression of the grandeur and magnificence of Niagara. People have +visited it from all parts of the world. Monarchs and princes have +acknowledged that it exceeded their wildest expectation, and every +one who has gazed upon it agrees that it is almost impossible to +exaggerate its grandeur, or to say too much concerning its +magnitude. Even after the water has dashed wildly 150 feet +downwards, the descent continues. The river bed contracts in width +gradually, for seven miles below the falls, where the whirlpool +rapids are to be seen. After the second fall, the river seems to +have exhausted its vehemence, and runs more deliberately, cutting +its channel deeper into the rocky bed, and dropping its sensational +habits.</p> +<p>Some writers have hazarded an opinion that, as time changes all +things, so the day may come when Niagara Falls shall cease to +exist. Improbable as this idea naturally sounds, it has some +foundation in fact, for there have been marvelous changes in the +falls during the last few generations. About two hundred and fifty +years ago a sketch was taken of Niagara, and a hundred years later +another artist made a careful and apparently accurate picture. +These two differ from one another materially, and they also differ +greatly from the appearance of the falls at the present time. Both +of the old pictures show a third fall on the Canadian side. It is +known that about a hundred years ago several immense fragments of +rock were broken off the rocky ledge on the American side, and, +more recently, an earthquake affected the appearance of the +Canadian Fall. Certain it is, that the immense corrosive action of +the water, and the gradual eating away of the rock on both the +ledge and basin, has had the effect of changing the location of the +falls, and forcing up the river in the direction of Lake Erie. Time +alone can decide the momentous question as to whether the falls +will eventually be so changed in appearance as to be beyond +recognition. The lover of the beautiful and grand, and more +especially the antiquarian, sincerely trusts that no such calamity +will ever take place.</p> +<p>The history of the Indians in New York State is a very +interesting one. Prior to the discovery of America by Columbus, the +section of country including a majority of New York State and the +northern portion of Pennsylvania, was occupied by the Iroquois, +Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and Senecas. These formed the +historical Five Nations, of whom writers of the last century tell +us so much that is of lasting importance. These tribes were +self-governed, their rulers being selected on the hereditary plan. +There was a federal union between them for purposes of offense and +defense, and they called themselves, collectively, the "People of +the Long House." This imaginary house had an eastern door at the +mouth of the Mohawk River, and a western door at the Falls of +Niagara.</p> +<p>Bashfulness was not a characteristic of these old-time red men, +who had a special name of many letters for themselves, which, being +interpreted, meant "Men surpassing all others." They trace their +origin from the serpent-haired God, Atotarhon, and other traditions +attribute their powers of confederation and alliance to the +legendary Hiawatha. They built frame cabins and defended their +homes with much skill. Their dress was chiefly made out of deer and +elk hide, and relics still in existence show that they had good +ideas of agriculture, tanning, pottery, and even carving. They were +about 12,000 strong, and they appear to have been the most powerful +Indian combination prior to the arrival of the white man.</p> +<p>They were powerful in war as well as comparatively sensible in +peace. Their religion was, at least, consistent, and included a +firm belief in immortality. They maintained what may be termed +civilized family relations, and treated their women with proper +respect. Their conduct towards the white men was much more friendly +than might have been expected, and almost from the first they +displayed a conciliatory attitude, and entered into alliances with +the newcomers. They fought side by side with the New Englanders +against the French, and the hostile Indians who allied with them, +and in the year 1710, five of their sachems or legislators crossed +the Atlantic, and were received with honors by the Queen of +England. In diplomacy they did not prove themselves in the long run +as skillful as the newcomers, who by degrees secured from them the +land over which they had previously exercised sovereign rights.</p> +<p>The survivors of these Indians have not sunk to as low a level +as many other tribes have done. It is not generally known in the +West that there are on the New York reservations, at the present +time, more than 5,000 Indians, including about 2,700 survivors of +the once great Seneca tribe.</p> +<p>The State of New York is about the same size as the Kingdom of +England. It is the nineteenth State in the Union in point of size, +possessing area of more than 49,000 square miles, of which 1,500 +square miles is covered by water, forming portions of the lakes. +Its lake coast line extends 200 miles on Lake Ontario and 75 miles +on Lake Erie. Lake Champlain flows along the eastern frontier for +more than 100 miles, receiving the waters of Lake George, which has +been described as the Como of America. The lake has a singular +history. It was originally called by the French Canadians who +discovered it, the "Lake of the Holy Sacrament," and it was the +scene of battles and conflicts for over a hundred years.</p> +<p>The capital of the Empire State, with its population of such +magnitude that it exceeds that of more than twenty important +foreign nations, is Albany, which was founded by the Dutch in 1623, +and which has since earned for itself the title of the "Edinburgh +of America." Compared with New York City it is dwarfed in point of +population and commercial importance.</p> +<p>Of the actual metropolis of the great Empire State it is +impossible to speak at any length in the limited space at one's +command. Of New York itself, Mr. Chauncey Depew said recently, in +his forcible manner, "To-day, in the sisterhood of States, she is +an empire in all that constitutes a great commonwealth. An +industrious, intelligent, and prosperous population of 5,000,000 of +people live within her borders. In the value of her farms and farm +products, and in her manufacturing industries, she is the first +State in the Union. She sustains over 1,000 newspapers and +periodicals, has $80,000,000 invested in church property, and +spends $12,000,000 a year on popular education. Upward of 300 +academies and colleges fit her youth for special professions, and +furnish opportunities for liberal learning and the highest culture, +and stately edifices all over the State, dedicated to humane and +benevolent objects, exhibit the permanence and extent of her +organized charities. There are $600,000,000 in her savings banks, +$300,000,000 in her insurance companies, and $700,000,000 in the +capital and loans of her State and National banks. Six thousand +miles of railroads, costing $600,000,000, have penetrated and +developed every accessible corner of the State, and maintain, +against all rivalry and competition, her commercial prestige."</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c4" id="c4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>IN THE CENTER OF THE COUNTRY.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Geographical Center of the United States and its Location +West of the Mississippi River--The Center of Population--History of +Fort Riley--The Gallant "Seventh"--Early Troubles of +Kansas--Extermination of the Buffalo--But a Few Survivors out of +Many Millions.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Kansas is included by most people in the list of Western States; +by many it is regarded as in the extreme West. If the Pilgrim +Fathers had been told that the haven of refuge they had selected +would, within two or three hundred years, be part of a great +English-speaking nation with some 70,000,000 of inhabitants, and +with its center some 1,500 miles westward, they would have listened +to the story with pardonable incredulity, and would have felt like +invoking condemnation upon the head of the reckless prophet who was +addressing them.</p> +<p>Yet Kansas is to-day in the very center of the United States. +This is not a printer's error, nor a play upon words, much as the +New Englander may suspect the one or the other. There was a time +when the word "West" was used to apply to any section of the +country a day's journey on horseback from the Atlantic Coast. For +years, and even generations, everything west of the Allegheny +Mountains or of the Ohio River was "Out West." Even to-day it is +probable that a majority of the residents in the strictly Eastern +States regard anything west of the Mississippi River as strictly +Western.</p> +<p>There is no doubt that when Horace Greeley told the young men of +the country to "Go West and grow up with the country," he used the +term in its common and not its strictly geographical sense, and +many thousand youths, who took the advice of the philosopher and +statesman, stopped close to the banks of the Mississippi River, and +have grown rich in their new homes. It cannot be too generally +realized, however, that the Mississippi River slowly wends its way +down to the Gulf of Mexico well within the eastern half of the +greatest nation in the world. At several points in the circuitous +course of the Father of Waters, the distance between the river and +the Atlantic Ocean is about 1,000 miles. In an equal number of +points the distance to the Pacific Ocean is 2,000 miles, showing +that whatever may be said of the tributaries of the Mississippi +River, and especially of its gigantic tributary the Missouri, the +Mississippi is an Eastern and not a Western river.</p> +<p>We give an illustration of the point which competent surveyors +and engineers tell us is the exact geographical center of the +United States proper. The monument standing in the center of this +great country is surrounded by an iron railing, and is visited +again and again by tourists, who find it difficult to believe the +fact that a point apparently so far western is really central. The +center of the United States has gone west with the absorption of +territory, and the Louisiana purchase, the centenary of which we +shall shortly celebrate, had a great effect on the location.</p> +<!--Placeholder for future insertion of this image<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0370.jpg" name="Center" id="Center"><img src= +"images/m0370t.jpg" alt= +"The Exact Center of the United States" /></a> +<h4>The Exact Center of the United States</h4> +</div> +<hr />--> +<p>The center of population has moved less spasmodically, but with +great regularity. A hundred years ago the City of Baltimore was the +center of population, and it was not until the middle of the +century that Ohio boasted of owning the population center. For some +twenty years it remained near Cincinnati, but during the '80s it +went as far as Columbus, Indiana, where it was at the last +Government census. At the present time it is probably twenty or +thirty miles west of Columbus, and in the near future Fort Riley +will be the population, as well as the geographical, center.</p> +<p>Fort Riley is an interesting spot for civilian and soldier +alike. Having been selected by the Government as the permanent +training school for the two mounted branches of the service--the +cavalry and light artillery--its 21,000 acres have been improved at +lavish expense. It seems really remarkable that so metropolitan a +bit of ground could be found out on the plains, where, though +civilization is making rapid strides, and the luxuries of wealth +are being acquired by the advancing population, it is unusual to +find macadamized streets and buildings that can harbor a regiment +and still not be crowded. Yet such are some of the characteristics +of Fort Riley Reservation, and the newness of it all is the best +evidence of the interest the War Department has taken in its +development. Many of the recently erected buildings would grace the +capital itself. Nearly $1,000,000 have been expended in the past +four years in new structures, all of magnesia limestone, and built +along the lines of the most approved modern architecture, and of a +character which insures scores of years of usefulness.</p> +<p>The fort is situated on the left bank of the Kansas River, near +the junction of the Republican and Smoky Hill Forks. It was first +laid out in 1852, and has ever since been one of the leading +Western posts. Located, though it is, far out on the Kansas +prairies, it has, particularly in late years, been fully in touch +with the social life of the East, through the addition of new +officers and the interchange of post courtesies.</p> +<p>The post, as it stands to-day, consists of officers' quarters, +artillery and cavalry barracks, administration buildings, sheds, +hospital, dispensary, etc., scattered over 150 acres of ground. The +Kansas River is formed just southwest of it by the union of the +Smoky Hill and Republican Forks, and the topography for practice +and sightseeing could not be surpassed in the State. Five miles of +macadamized streets, 150,000 feet of stone and gravel walks, six +miles of sewers, four miles of water and steam heating pipes, +leading to every room of each of the sixty buildings, make up the +equipment, which is, of course, of the highest quality throughout. +All the stone is quarried on the reservation, and is of lasting +variety, and makes buildings which bear a truly substantial +appearance. The Government has an idea toward permanency in its +improvements.</p> +<p>The history of Fort Riley has been one of vicissitudes. When it +was laid out in 1852, it was at first called Camp Center, but was +changed to its present name by order of the War Department in honor +of General B. C. Riley. In 1855, the fort suffered from Asiatic +cholera, and Major E. A. Ogden, one of the original commissioners +who laid out the reservation, who was staying there, nursed the +soldiers with a heroic attachment to duty, and himself fell a +victim to the disease. A handsome monument marks his resting place. +He was a true soldier hero, and his name is still spoken in +reverence by the attaches of the post.</p> +<p>Another notable feature of the reservation is the dismantled +rock wall to the east of the fort, which is all that now remains of +the once ambitious capitol building of the State of Kansas. It has +a strange history, being the "Pawnee House," in which the +Territorial Legislature met in the early ante-bellum days, +confident of protection by the soldiers from the roaming Indian +bands infesting the prairies.</p> +<p>A famous dweller at the fort for two decades was old Comanche, +the only living creature to escape from the Custer massacre on the +side of the Government. He was the horse ridden by an officer in +that memorable fight, and by miracle escaped, after having seven +balls fired into him. He was found roaming over the prairie, after +the massacre, and was ordered put on the retired list, and +stationed at Fort Riley, where for twenty years he was petted and +cared for, but never ridden. His only service was to be led in +processions of ceremony, draped in mourning. Now that he is dead, +his body has been preserved with the taxidermist's best skill, and +is one of the State's most noted relics.</p> +<p>The fort has been of unusual interest of late. In addition to +the maneuvers of the school for mounted service, in which the +soldiers have been regularly drilled, engaging in sham battles, +throwing up mimic fortifications, fording the rivers, etc., the War +Signal Service has been conducting some interesting experiments. +The Signal Service has had its huge balloon, which was exhibited at +the World's Fair, at the post, and its ascensions and the +operations put in practice have proved very attractive and +instructive.</p> +<p>The new riding hall, or cavalry practice building, makes it +possible for the training school to go on the year round, +regardless of the weather. It has an open floor space 300 feet long +and 100 feet wide, making it an admirable room for the purpose.</p> +<p>The Fort Riley troops are always called on when there is trouble +in the West. They have put down a dozen Indian uprisings on the +plains, and only a few months ago were sent for to keep order in +Chicago during the railway strikes. From this trip, four old +members of the post were brought back dead, having met their fate +in the bursting of a caisson, while marching along a paved +street.</p> +<p>The fort is the great pleasure resort of Kansas. The late +commanding officer, Colonel Forsyth, now General Forsyth, is much +given to hospitality, and the people of the State take great pride +in the post's advancement and its victories. During the summer, on +several occasions, the national holidays especially, the soldiers +"receive," and excursion trains bring hundreds of visitors from +every direction, who are delighted to feast their eyes on real +cannon, uniforms and shoulder straps. They are entertained royally. +Drills, salutes, sham battles and parades, occupy every hour of the +day, and in the evening the drill floor becomes a dancing place for +all who enjoy the delights of a military ball.</p> +<p>The history of the fort has been, in a measure, that of the +Seventh Cavalry, which for nearly two decades has had its residence +there, and become identified with the spot. The Seventh Cavalry +dates its glory from before the days of the intrepid Custer, whose +memory it cherishes. It has taken part in scores of Indian +battles--indeed, there has not, for years, been an uprising in the +West in which it has not done duty. Its last considerable encounter +was at Wounded Knee and Drexel Mission, where the Custer massacre +was in a degree avenged. Here it lost twenty-four of its members, +and a magnificent granite monument has been erected at the fort to +their memory. It bears the names of those who fell, and tells +briefly the story of their bravery.</p> +<p>In the Wounded Knee battle, on the plains of Dakota, during the +closing days of 1891, the four troops of the regiment were +treacherously surprised by the Sioux, and because, after the +attack, Colonel Forsyth ordered a charge, resulting in the killing +of many of the savages, he was suspended by his superior officer, +General Miles, for disobedience of orders, which were not to fire +on the enemy. An investigation, however, amply justified his +action, and he was reinstated in charge of his post as before. +Early in November, 1894, on the promotion of General McCook to be +Major General, Colonel Forsyth stepped up to the Brigadier +Generalship, and his place at Fort Riley will be taken by Colonel +Sumner. There is a rumor, however, in army circles, that the old +Seventh will be stationed in the far Northwest, and the Fifth +Cavalry will succeed it as resident regiment here. The post has +become so closely identified with the fortunes of the former +regiment that it will seem strange to have any other troops call it +home.</p> +<p>There are usually at the fort three squadrons of cavalry, of +four troops each, and five batteries of light artillery, engaged in +the maneuvers of the school for mounted service, which has its +headquarters for the entire army here. The principal object of this +school is instruction in the combined operations of the cavalry and +light artillery, and this object is kept steadily in view. The +troops of each arm form a sub-school, and are instructed nine +months in the year in their own arm, preparatory to the three +months of combined operations. Thus the batteries are frequently +practiced in road marching in rapid gaits; the Kansas River is +often forded; rough hills are climbed at "double quick," and guns +are brought to action on all sorts of difficult ground, with the +result that, when the combined operations begin, the batteries may +be maneuvered over all kinds of obstacles.</p> +<p>Among the plans of the future is one, which was a favorite with +General Sheridan, of making Fort Riley the horse-furnishing +headquarters for the entire army. The location being so central, it +insures the nearest approach to perfect acclimation of animals sent +to any part of the Union. Two plans are being contemplated for the +accomplishment of this object. One is to make it a breeding +station; the other is to simply make it a purchasing station, which +shall buy of the farmers of the West the horses needed by the army, +and train the animals for regular use before sending them to the +various posts.</p> +<p>Present plans also include an increase in the number of soldiers +stationed at Fort Riley to 3,000. If the proposed increase in the +standing army is carried out, there may be more than that. The +Government evidently has faith in the location of the fort. While +it has abandoned and consolidated other stations, it has all the +time been increasing its expenditures here, and the estimates for +the next year aggregate expenditures of over $500,000, provided the +Appropriation Committee does its duty. There are plans of still +further beautifying the grounds, and the addition of more turnpikes +and macadamized roads.</p> +<p>The State of Kansas, and especially Geary and Riley Counties, in +which the fort is situated, reap a considerable benefit from its +location. The perishable produce of the commissary department comes +from the country around. Hundreds of horses are bought at round +prices, while the soldier trade has sent Junction City, four miles +west, ahead of all competitors in Central Kansas for volume of +business and population. Naturally, Kansas is glad to see Fort +Riley a permanency, and hopes that it may be made the Government's +chief Western post.</p> +<p>Kansas has been spoken of as the most wonderful State in the +Union, and in many respects it is fully entitled to its reputation +in this respect. It has had enough discouragements and drawbacks to +ruin half a dozen States, and nothing but the phenomenal fertility +of the soil, and the push and go of the pioneers who claim the +State as their own, has enabled Kansas to withstand difficulties +and to sail buoyantly through waves of danger into harbors of +refuge. In its early days, border warfare hindered development and +drove many most desirable settlers to more peaceful spots. Since +then the prefix "Bleeding" has again been used repeatedly in +connection with the State, because of the succession of droughts +and plagues of grasshoppers and chinch bugs, which have imperiled +its credit and fair name. But Kansas remains to-day a great State, +with a magnificent future before it. The fertility of the soil is +more than phenomenal. Kansas corn is known throughout the world for +its excellency, and at the World's Fair in 1893 it took highest +awards for both the white and yellow varieties. In addition to +this, it secured the gold medal for the best corn in the world, as +well as the highest awards for red winter wheat flour, sorghum +sugar and apples. Indeed, Kansas soil produces almost anything to +perfection, and the State, thanks largely to works of irrigation in +the extreme western section, is producing larger quantities of +indispensable agricultural products every year.</p> +<p>The very motto of the State indicates the early troubles through +which it went, the literal interpretation being "To the stars (and +stripes) through difficulties." The State is generally known now as +the "Sunflower State," and for many years the sword has given place +to the plowshare. But the very existence of Fort Riley shows that t +his was not always the condition of affairs. Early in the +Eighteenth Century, French fur-traders crossed over into Kansas, +and, later on, Spanish explorers were struck with the possibilities +of the fertile plains. Local Indian tribes were then at war, but a +sense of common danger caused the antagonistic red men to unite, +and the white immigrants were massacred in a body. After the famous +Missouri Compromise of 1820, and the Kansas-Nebraska Act of thirty +years later, the slave issue became a very live one in Kansas, and +for some time the State was in a condition bordering upon civil +war. The convention of 1859, at Wyandotte, settled this difficulty, +and placed Kansas in the list of anti-slavery States.</p> +<p>Some ten years ago, after Kansas had enjoyed a period of the +most unique prosperity, from an agricultural standpoint, the +general impression began to prevail that the State was destined to +become almost immediately the greatest in the nation. Corn fields +were platted out into town sites, and additions to existing cities +were arranged in every direction. For a time it appeared as though +there was little exaggeration in the extravagant forecast of future +greatness. Town lots sold in a most remarkable manner, many +valuable corners increasing in value ten and twenty-fold in a +single night. The era of railroad building was coincident with the +town boom craze, and Eastern people were so anxious to obtain a +share of the enormous profits to be made by speculating in Kansas +town lots, that money was telegraphed to agents and banks all over +the State, and options on real estate were sold very much on the +plan adopted by traders in stocks and bonds in Wall Street.</p> +<p>The greed of some, if not most, of the speculators, soon killed +the goose which laid the golden egg. The boom burst in a most +pronounced manner. People who had lost their heads found them +again, and many a farmer who had abandoned agriculture in order to +get rich by trading in lots, went back to his plow and his chores, +a sadder and wiser, although generally poorer, man. Many hundreds +of thousands of dollars changed hands during the boom. Exactly who +"beat the game," to use the gambler's expression, has never been +known. Certain it is, that for every man in Kansas who admits that +he made money out of the excitement and inflation, there are at +least fifty who say that the boom well-nigh ruined them.</p> +<p>Kansas is as large as Great Britain, larger than the whole of +New England combined, and a veritable empire in itself. It is a +State of magnificent proportions, and of the most unique and +delightful history. Three and a half centuries ago, Coronado, the +great pioneer prospector and adventurer, hunted Kansas from end to +end in search of the precious metals which he had been told could +be found there in abundance. He wandered over the immense stretch +of prairies and searched along the creek bottoms without finding +what he sought. He speaks in his records of "mighty plains and +sandy heaths, smooth and wearisome and bare of wood. All the way +the plains are as full of crooked-back oxen as the mountain Serena +in Spain is of sheep."</p> +<p>These crooked-back oxen were of course buffaloes, or, more +correctly speaking, species of the American bison. No other +continent was ever blessed with a more magnificent and varied +selection of beasts and birds in forests and prairies than was +North America. Kansas in particular was fortunate in the possession +of thousands of herds of buffaloes. Now it has none, except a few +in a domesticated state, with their old regal glory departed +forever. When we read the reports of travelers and trappers, +written little more than half a century ago, and treating of the +enormous buffalo herds that covered the prairies as far as the eye +could reach, we wonder whether these descriptions can be real, or +whether they are not more in the line of fables and the outgrowth +of a too vivid imagination.</p> +<p>If, thirty years ago, some wiseacre had come forward and +predicted that it would become necessary to devise means for the +protection of this enormous amount of game, he would have been +laughed out of countenance. Yet this extraordinary condition of +affairs has actually come to pass. Entire species of animals which +belonged to the magnificent fauna of North America are already +extinct or are rapidly becoming so. The sea-cow is one of these +animals; the last specimens of which were seen in 1767 and 1768. +The Californian sea-elephant and the sea-dog of the West Indies +have shared a like fate. Not a trace of these animals has been +found for a long time. The extinction of the Labrador duck and the +great auk have often been deplored. Both of these birds may be +regarded as practically extinct. The last skeleton of the great auk +was sold for $600, the last skin for $650, and the last egg brought +the fabulous sum of $1,500.</p> +<p>Last, not least, the American bison is a thing of the past!</p> +<p>It has been historically proven that at the time of the +discovery of America, the buffalo herds covered the entire enormous +territory from Pennsylvania to Oregon and Nevada, and down to +Mexico, and thirty years ago the large emigrant caravans which +traveled from the Eastern States across the Mississippi to the gold +fields of California, met with herds of buffaloes, not numbering +thousands, but hundreds of thousands. The construction trains of +the first Pacific Railroad were frequently interrupted and delayed +by wandering buffalo herds.</p> +<p>Today the United States may be traversed from end to end, and +not a single buffalo will be seen, and nothing remains to even +indicate their presence but the deep, well-trodden paths which they +made years ago. Rain has not been able to wash away these traces, +and they are counted among the "features" of the prairies, where +the bisons once roamed in undisturbed glory. It was a difficult +task for the Government to gather the last remnants, about 150 to +200 head, to stock Yellowstone Park with them, and to prevent their +complete extinction.</p> +<p>Undoubtedly, the buffalo was the most stupid animal of the +prairies. In small flocks, he eluded the hunter well enough; but in +herds of thousands, he cared not a whit for the shooting at the +flanks of his army. Any Indian or trapper, stationed behind some +shrubs or earth hill, could kill dozens of buffalo without +disturbing the herd by the swish of the arrow, the report of the +rifle, or the dying groans of the wounded animals. A general +stampede ensued at times, which often led the herd into morasses, +or the quick-sand of the rivers, where they perished miserably. The +destruction was still greater when the leader of the herd came upon +some yawning abyss. Those behind drove him down into the deep, and +the entire herd followed blindly, only to be dashed to death.</p> +<p>The very stupidity of the bison helped to exterminate the race, +where human agency would have seemed well nigh inadequate.</p> +<p>Among the large game of the continent, the bison was the most +important, and furnished the numerous Indian tribes not only with +abundant food, but other things as well. They covered their tents +with the thick skins, and made saddles, boats, lassoes and shoes +from them. Folded up, they used them as beds, and wore them around +their shoulders as a protection against the winter's cold. Spoons +and other utensils for the household could be made from their hoofs +and horns, and their bones were shaped into all kinds of arms and +weapons. The life and existence of the prairie Indian depended +almost entirely upon that of the buffalo. There is no doubt that +the Indians killed many buffaloes, but while the damage may have +been great, there was not much of a reduction noticeable in their +numbers, for the buffalo cow is an enormous breeder.</p> +<p>Conditions were changed, however, when the white man arrived +with his rifle, settled down on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, +and began to drive the aborigines of the American continent further +and further West. With this crowding back of the Indians began that +also of the buffalo, and the destruction of the latter was far more +rapid than that of the former.</p> +<p>It was about the middle of the Seventeenth Century when the +first English colonists climbed the summits of the Allegheny +Mountains. Enormous herds of buffalo grazed then in Western +Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Tennessee, and in the famous +blue grass regions of Kentucky. How fast the buffaloes became +exterminated may best be illustrated by the fact that, at the +beginning of the present century, the bison had entirely +disappeared from the eastern banks of the Mississippi. A few +isolated herds could be found in Kentucky in 1792. In 1814 the +animal had disappeared in Indiana and Illinois. When the white +settlers crossed the Mississippi, to seek connection with the +territories on the Pacific coast, the buffalo dominion, once so +vast, decreased from year to year, and finally it was split in two +and divided into a northern and southern strip. The cause of this +division was the California overland emigration, the route of which +followed the Kansas and Platte Rivers, cutting through the center +of the buffalo regions. These emigrants killed hundreds of +thousands of animals, and the division became still greater after +the completion of the Union Pacific line and the settlement of the +adjacent districts.</p> +<p>The buffaloes of the southern strip were the first to be +exterminated, particularly when the building of the Atchison, +Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad facilitated entrance to the southern +range.</p> +<p>Aside from the pleasure and excitement from a buffalo hunt, the +yield was a rich one, and troops of hunters swarmed over the +Western prairies; buffalo hunting became an industry which gave +employment to thousands of people. But human avarice knew no +bounds, and massacred senselessly the finest game with which this +continent was stocked. The dimensions to which this industry grew +may best be guessed when it is stated that in 1872 more than +100,000 buffaloes were killed near Fort Dodge in three months. +During the summer of 1874, an expedition composed of sixteen +hunters killed 2,800 buffaloes, and during that same season one +young trapper boasted of having killed 3,000 animals. The sight of +such a slaughter scene was gruesome to behold. Colonel Dodge writes +of it: "During the fall of 1873 I rode across the prairie, where a +year ago I had hunted several herds. At the time we enjoyed the +aspect of a myriad of buffaloes, which were grazing peacefully over +the prairies. Now we rode past myriads of decaying cadavers and +skeletons, which filled the air with an insufferable stench. The +broad plain which, a year ago, had teemed with animals, was nothing +more than a dead, foul desert."</p> +<p>Mr. Blackmore, another traveler, who went through Kansas at +about the same time, says that he counted, on four acres of ground, +no less than sixty-seven buffalo carcasses. As was to be expected, +this wholesale and, indeed, wanton slaughter brought its own reward +and condemnation. The price of buffalo skins dropped to 50 cents, +although as much as $3.00 had been paid regularly for them. +Moreover, as the number of animals killed was greater than could be +removed, the decaying carcasses attracted wolves, and even worse +foes, to the farmyard, and terrible damage to cattle resulted.</p> +<p>The Indians also were disturbed. "Poor Lo" complained of the +wanton and senseless killing of the principal means of his +sustenance, and when the white man with a laugh ignored these +complaints, the Indians got on the war-path, attacked settlements, +killed cattle and stole provisions, thus giving rise to conflicts, +which devoured not only enormous sums of money, but cost the lives +of thousands of people. When the locust plague swept over the +fields of Kansas and destroyed the entire crop, the settlers +themselves hungered for the buffalo meat of which they had robbed +themselves, and vengeance came in more ways than one.</p> +<p>The extermination of the buffalo of the southern range was +completed about 1875; to the bisons of the northern range were +given a few years' grace. But the same scenes which were enacted in +the South, repeated themselves in the North, and the white +barbarians were not satisfied until they had killed the last of the +noble game in 1885. When the massacre was nearly over, a few +isolated herds were collected and transported to Yellowstone Park, +where they have increased to about 400 during the last few years, +protected by the hunting laws, which are strictly enforced. With +the exception of a very few specimens, tenderly nursed by some +cattle raisers in Kansas and Texas, and in some remote parts of +British America, these are the last animals of a species, which two +decades ago wandered in millions over the vast prairies of the +West.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c5" id="c5">CHAPTER V.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THE MORMONS AND THEIR WIVES.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Pilgrimage Across the Bad Lands to Utah--Incidents of the +March--Success of the New Colony--Religious Persecutions--Murder of +an Entire Family--The Curse of Polygamy--An Ideal City--Humors of +Bathing in Great Salt Lake.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>About half a century ago one of the most remarkable pilgrimages +of modern times took place. Across what was then, not inaptly, +described by writers as an arid and repulsive desert, there +advanced a procession of the most unique and awe-inspiring +character. History tells us of bands of crusaders who tramped +across Europe in order to rescue the Holy Land from tyrants and +invaders. On that occasion, all sorts and conditions of men were +represented, from the religious enthusiast, to the ignorant bigot, +and from the rich man who was sacrificing his all in the cause that +he believed to be right, to the tramp and ne'er-do-well, who had +allied himself with that cause for revenue only.</p> +<p>But the distance traversed by the crusaders six or seven hundred +years ago was insignificant compared with the distance traversed by +the pilgrims to whom we are referring. In addition to this, the +country to be crossed presented difficulties of a far more +startling and threatening character. There was before them a +promised land in the extreme distance, but there intervened a tract +of land which seemed as impassable a barrier as the much talked-of, +but seldom inspected, Chinese Wall of old. There was a region of +desolation and death, extending from the Sierra Nevadas to the +border lines of Nebraska, and from the Yellowstone to the Colorado +Rivers. A profane writer once suggested that the same Creator could +hardly have brought into existence this arid, barren and +inhospitable region and the fertile plains and beautiful mountains +which surrounded it on all sides.</p> +<p>Civilization and irrigation have destroyed the most awful +characteristics of this region, but at the time to which we are +referring, it was about as bad from the standpoint of humanity and +human needs as could well be imagined. Here and there, there were +lofty mountains and deep cañons, as there are now, but the +immense plains, which occupy the bulk of the land, were unwatered +and uncared for, giving forth volumes of a penetrating alkali dust, +almost as injurious to human flesh as to human attire. Here and +there, there were, of course, little oases of comparative verdure, +which were regarded by unfortunate travelers not only as havens of +refuge, but as little heavens in the midst of a sea of despair. The +trail across the desert, naturally, ran through as many as possible +of these successful efforts of nature to resist decay, and along +the trail there were to be found skeletons and ghastly remains of +men whose courage had exceeded their ability, and who had succumbed +to hunger and thirst in this great, lonesome desert.</p> +<p>That no one lived in this region it would seem superfluous to +state. Occasionally a band of Indians would traverse it in search +of hunting grounds beyond, though, as a general rule, the red man +left the country severely alone, and made no effort to dispute the +rights of the coyotes and buzzards to sole possession.</p> +<p>Along the trail mentioned, there advanced at the period to which +we have referred, a procession which we have likened, in some +respects, to the advance of the crusaders in mediaeval days. Those +who happened to see it pass described this cavalcade as almost +beyond conception. The first impression from a distance was that an +immense herd of buffalo were advancing and creating the cloud of +dust, which seemed to rise from the bare ground and mount to the +clouds. As it came nearer, and the figures became more discernible, +it was seen that the caravan was headed by a band of armed +horsemen. The animals were jaded and fatigued, and walked with +their heads low down and their knees bent out of shape and form. +Their riders seemed as exhausted as the animals themselves, and +they carried their dust-begrimed guns in anything but military +fashion. Behind them came hundreds, nay, thousands, of wagons, of +all shapes and builds, some of them entirely open and exposed, and +others protected more or less by canvas tilts. These wagons seemed +to stretch back indefinitely into space, and even when there was no +undulation of the surface to obstruct the view, the naked eye could +not determine to any degree the length of the procession. Near the +front of the great cavalcade was a wagon different in build and +appearance to any of the others. It was handsomely and even gaudily +decorated, and it was covered in so carefully that its occupants +could sleep and rest as secure from annoyance by the dust as though +they were in bed at home.</p> +<p>Instead of two broken-down horses, six well-fed and well-watered +steeds were attached to the wagon, and it was evident that no +matter how short had been the supply of food and water, the horses +and occupants of this particular conveyance had had everything they +desired. The occupant of this wagon was a man who did not look to +be more than thirty years of age, but whose face and manner +indicated that he was in the habit of being obeyed rather than +obeying. A great portion of his time was occupied in reading from a +large vellum-bound book, but from time to time he laid it on one +side to settle disputes which had arisen among some of his ten +thousand followers, or to issue orders of the most emphatic and +dogmatic character.</p> +<p>This man was Brigham Young, the successor of Joseph Smith, and +the chosen Prophet of the Mormons, who were marching across the +desert in search of the promised land, which they were informed had +been set aside for their purpose by the Ruler of the Universe.</p> +<p>We need not follow the fortunes and misfortunes of the zealous, +if misguided, men and families who followed their leader across the +great unwatered and almost unexplored desert. No one knows how many +fell by the wayside and succumbed to hunger, exhaustion or disease. +The bulk of the column, however, persevered in the march, and, +through much sadness and tribulation, finally arrived at a country +which, while it was not then by any means up to expectation or +representation, at least presented facilities and opportunities for +living. When the great valleys of Utah were reached, men who a few +months before had been strong and hardy, but who now were lank and +lean, fell on their knees and offered up thanksgiving for their +deliverance, while the exhausted women and children sought repose +and rest, which had been denied them for so many long, wearisome +days.</p> +<p>But there was no time to be wasted in rejoicings over +achievements, or regrets over losses. The virgin acres before them +were theirs for the asking, or rather taking, and the Mormon colony +set to work at once to parcel out the land and to commence the +building of homes. Whatever may be said against the religious ideas +of these pilgrims, too much credit cannot be given them for the +business-like energy which characterized their every movement. A +site was selected for what is now known as Salt Lake City. Broad +streets were laid out, building plans and rules adopted, and every +arrangement made for the construction of a handsome and symmetrical +city. Houses, streets and squares appeared almost by magic, and in +a very few weeks quite a healthy town was built up. Those who in +more Eastern regions had learned different trades were set to work +at callings of their choice, and for those who were agriculturally +disposed, farms were mapped out and reserved.</p> +<p>Fortunately for the newcomers, industry was a watchword among +them, and a country which had been up to that time a stranger to +the plow and shovel was drained and ditched, and very speedily +planted to corn and wheat. So fertile did this so-called arid +ground prove to be, that one year's crop threw aside all fears of +further poverty, and prosperity began to reign supreme. Had the +Mormons confined themselves to work, and had abandoned extreme +religious and social ideas, impossible in an enlightened age and +country, they would have risen long before this into an impregnable +position in every respect.</p> +<p>But polygamy, hitherto restrained and checked by laws of Eastern +States and Territories, was now indulged in indiscriminately. The +more wives a member of the Mormon church possessed, the greater was +his standing in the community. The man who had but two or three +wives was censured for his want of enthusiasm, and he was +frequently fined heavily by the church, which was not above levying +fines, and thus licensing alleged irregularities. Some of the +elders had more than a hundred wives each, and these were +maintained under relations of a most peculiar character.</p> +<p>At first the polygamous tenents of the church did not cause much +comment on the outside, because the Mormons were so shut off from +civilization that they seemed to occupy a little world of their +own, and no one claimed the right to censure or interfere with +them. Gradually, however, there became a shortage of marriageable +women, and this resulted in mysterious raids being made on +neighboring settlements. Wanderers upon the mountains spoke with +horror of mysterious tribes of men who wandered around engaged in +acts of plunder, and from time to time strange women appeared in +the towns and settlements.</p> +<p>Like so many other bands of persecuted men who had fled from +their oppressors in search of liberty, the early Mormons soon +adopted the tactics of which they had complained so bitterly. The +man who refused to obey the orders of the church, or who was in any +way rebellious, was apt to disappear from his home without warning +or explanation. He was not arrested or tried; he was simply +spirited away, and no mark or sign proclaimed his last resting +place. The Danite Band, or the Avenging Angels, came into +existence, and some of their terrible deeds have contributed dark +pages to the history of our native land.</p> +<p>It is not to be supposed that acts such as these were approved +indiscriminately by the newcomers. Occasionally a mild protest +would be uttered, but it seemed as though the very walls had ears, +for even if a man in the bosom of his family criticised the conduct +of the church, his doom appeared to be sealed, and he generally +disappeared within a few days. Occasionally a family would attempt +to escape from Utah, in order to avoid compliance with laws and +orders which they believed to be criminal in character, as well as +contrary to their preconceived notions of domestic happiness and +right. To make an attempt of this character was to invite death. In +the first place, it was almost impossible to traverse the +surrounding mountains and deserts, and even if these natural +obstacles were overcome, the hand of the avenger was constantly +uplifted against the fugitives, who were blotted off the face of +the earth, on the theory that dead men tell no tales.</p> +<p>On one occasion, a man left his home in Utah in the way +described, because he declined to bring home a second wife. Brigham +Young, in the course of his pastoral calls, entered the comfortable +house occupied by the family, and called upon the man to introduce +to him his wives. He was one of the few men who, while in every +other respect a zealous Mormon, had declined to break up his family +relations by bringing a young wife into his home. The mother of his +children informed the Prophet with much vehemence of this fact, and +in words more noble than discreet assured him that no effort of his +could disturb the domestic relations of the house, or make her +husband untrue to vows he had taken twenty years before.</p> +<p>The Prophet was too astounded to lose his temper, but turning to +the happy husband and father, he told him in stentorian tones that +unless within one month he complied with the orders of the church, +it would have been better for him had he never been born, or had he +died while on the terrible march across the Bad Lands and the +alkali desert. That the Prophet was in earnest was evidenced by the +arrival the following day of some of his minions, who brought with +them more explicit directions, as well as the names of certain +young women to whom the man must be "sealed" or "married" within +the time mentioned by Young.</p> +<p>No idea of complying with this order ever occurred to the head +of the house. He knew that his wife would far rather die than be +dishonored, and he himself was perfectly willing to sacrifice his +life rather than his honor. But for the sake of his four children +he determined to make an attempt to escape, and accordingly, a few +days later, the family, having collected together all their +available and easily transported assets, hitched up their wagon and +drove away in the dead of night. Their departure in this manner was +not expected, and was not discovered for nearly forty-eight hours, +during which time the refugees had made considerable progress over +the surrounding mountains. They maintained their march for nearly a +week, without incident, and were congratulating themselves upon +their escape, when the disaster which they had feared overtook +them.</p> +<p>They were camped by the side of a little stream in a fertile +valley, and all were sleeping peacefully but the elder boy, who was +acting as sentinel. His attention was first called to danger by the +uneasiness displayed by the horses, which, by their restless manner +and sudden anxiety, showed that instinct warned them of an +approaching party. Without wasting a moment's time, the young man +hastily aroused the sleepers, who prepared to abandon their camp +and seek refuge in the adjoining timber. They had barely reached +cover when a party of mounted armed men rode up. Finding a deserted +camp, they separated, and commenced to scour the surrounding +country. One of the number soon came upon the retreating family, +but before he could cover them with his rifle he had been shot dead +by the infuriated father, who was determined to resist to the +uttermost the horrible fate which now stared them in the face.</p> +<p>The noise was taken by the other searchers as a signal to them +that the hunted family had been found, and knowing that this would +be so, the man and his sons hurried the woman and younger children +to a secluded spot at a little distance, and seeking convenient +cover determined to make a desperate effort to protect those for +whose safety they were responsible. Unfortunately for the +successful carrying out of this plan, the helpless section of the +party was discovered first. The avenging party then divided up into +two sections, one of which dragged away the woman and her young +children, and the others went in search of the man and his two +sons. They speedily found them, and in the fight which followed two +lives were lost on both sides.</p> +<p>The oldest son of the escaping party was wounded and left for +dead. Several hours later consciousness returned to him, and the +first sight that met his gaze was the dead bodies of his father and +brother. A chance was offered him to escape, but weak as he was +from loss of blood, he determined to follow up the kidnaping party, +forming the desperate resolve that if he could not rescue his +mother and sisters, he would at least save them from the horrible +fate that he knew awaited them. This resolve involved his death, +for he was no match for the men he was contending against. No grave +was ever dug for his remains, and no headstone tells the story of +his noble resolution and his intrepid effort to carry it into +execution.</p> +<p>There were hundreds, and probably thousands, of similar +incidents, and Mormonism proved a sad drawback to the happiness of +a people who otherwise had before them prospects of a most +delightful character. Brigham Young proved a marvelous success as a +ruler. He had eighteen wives and an indefinite number of children, +estimates concerning the number of which vary so much that it is +best not to give any of them. It is generally stated and understood +that the so-called revelation calling upon the chosen people to +practice polygamy, was an invention on the part of Young, designed +to cover up his own immorality, and to obtain religious sanction +for improper relationships he had already built up. However this +may be, it is certain that polygamy had a serious blow dealt at it +by the death of its ardent champion. Since then stern federal +legislation has resulted in the practical suppression of the crime, +and in recent years the present head of the church has officially +declared the practice to be improper, and the habit dead.</p> +<p>Brigham Young's grave, of which we give an illustration, has +been visited from time to time-by countless pleasure and +sight-seekers. Like the man, it is unique in every respect. It is +situated in the Prophet's private burial ground, which was surveyed +and laid out by him with special care. He even went so far as to +select the last resting place for each of his eighteen wives, and +so careful was he over these details that the honor of resting near +him was given to each wife in order of the date of her being +"sealed" to him, in accordance with the rites and laws of the +church. Most of the Mrs. Youngs have been buried according to +arrangements made, but all of the remarkable aggregation of wives +has not yet been disposed of in the manner desired. The Prophet's +favorite wife, concerning whose relationship to Mrs. Grover +Cleveland there has been so much controversy, was named Amelia +Folsom. For her special comfort the Prophet built the Amelia +Palace, one of the most unique features of Salt Lake City. Here the +lady lived for several years.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0356.jpg" name="Brigham" id="Brigham"><img src= +"images/m0356t.jpg" alt= +"Brigham Young's Grave, Salt Lake City" /></a> +<h4>Brigham Young's Grave, Salt Lake City</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>Let us leave the unpleasant side of Mormon history and see what +the zealous, if misguided, people have succeeded in accomplishing. +Salt Lake City, which was originally settled by Brigham Young and +his followers in July, 1847, is perhaps the most uniform city in +the world so far as its plans are concerned. The original settlers +laid out the city in squares ten acres large. Instead of streets +sixty and eighty feet wide, as are too common in all our crowded +cities, a uniform width of 130 feet was adopted, with more +satisfactory results. In the original portion of the city these +wide streets are a permanent memorial to the forethought of the +early Mormons. The shade trees they planted are now magnificent in +their proportions, and along each side of the street there runs a +stream of water of exquisite clearness. There is very little +crowding in the way of house-building. Each house in the city is +surrounded by a green lawn, a garden and an orchard, so that +poverty and squalor of the slum type is practically unknown. The +communistic idea of homes in common, which has received so much +attention of late years, was not adopted by the founders of this +city, who, however, took excellent precautions to stamp out +loafing, begging and other accompaniments of what may be described +as professional pauperism.</p> +<p>Within thirty years of the building of the first house in Salt +Lake City, which, by the way, is still standing, the number of +inhabitants ran up to 20,000. It is now probably more than 50,000, +and the city stands thirty-first in the order of those whose +clearing-house returns are reported and compared weekly. Hotels +abound on every side, and benevolent institutions and parks are +common. Churches, of course, there are without number, and now that +the Government has interfered in the protection of so-called +Gentiles, almost all religious sects are represented.</p> +<p>No description of the Mormon Temple can convey a reasonable idea +of its grandeur. Six years after the arrival of the pilgrims at +Salt Lake City, or in 1853, work was commenced on this immense +structure, upon which at least $7,000,000 have been expended. Its +length is 200 feet, its width 100 feet, and its height the same. At +each corner there is a tower 220 feet high. The thickness of the +walls is 10 feet, and these are built of snow-white granite. So +conspicuous and massive is this building, that it can be seen from +the mountains fifty and even a hundred miles away.</p> +<p>The Tabernacle, which is in the same square as the Temple, and +just west of it, is aptly described by Mr. P. Donan as one of the +architectural curios of the world. It looks like a vast terrapin +back, or half of a prodigious egg-shell cut in two lengthwise, and +is built wholly of iron, glass and stone. It is 250 feet long, 150 +feet wide, and 100 feet high in the center of the roof, which is a +single mighty arch, unsupported by pillar or post, and is said to +have but one counterpart on the globe. The walls are 12 feet thick, +and there are 20 huge double doors for entrance and exit. The +Tabernacle seats 13,462 people, and its acoustic properties are so +marvelously perfect that a whisper or the dropping of a pin can be +heard all over it. The organ is one of the largest and grandest +toned in existence, and was built of native woods, by Mormon +workmen and artists, at a cost of $100,000. It is 58 feet high, has +57 stops, and contains 2,648 pipes, some of them nearly as large as +the chimneys of a Mississippi River steamer.</p> +<p>The choir consists of from 200 to 500 trained voices, and the +music is glorious beyond description. Much of it is in minor keys, +and a strain of plaintiveness mingles with all its majesty and +power. All the seats are free, and tourists from all parts of the +world are to be found among the vast multitudes that assemble at +every service. Think of seeing the Holy Communion broken bread, and +water from the Jordan River, instead of wine, administered to from +6,000 to 8,000 communicants at one time! One can just fancy the +old-time Mormon elders marching in, each followed by his five or +twenty-five wives and his fifty or a hundred children.</p> +<p>Close by is Assembly Hall, also of white granite, and of Gothic +architecture. It has seats for 2,500 people, and is most remarkable +for the costly fresco work on the ceiling, which illustrates scenes +from Mormon history, including the alleged discovery of the golden +plates and their delivery to Prophet Smith by the Angel Moroni.</p> +<p>All around this remarkable city are sights of surpassing beauty. +Great Salt Lake itself ought to be regarded as one of the wonders +of the world. Although an inland sea, with an immense area +intervening between it and the nearest ocean, its waters are much +more brackish and salty than those of either the Atlantic or the +Pacific, and its specific gravity is far greater. Experts tell us +that the percentage of salt and soda is six times as great as in +the waters of the Atlantic, and one great advantage of living in +its vicinity is the abundance of good, pure salt, which is produced +by natural evaporation on its banks. It would be interesting, if it +were possible, to explain why it is that the water is so salty. +Various reasons have been advanced from time to time for this +phenomenon, but none of them are sufficiently practical or tangible +to be of great interest to the unscientific reader.</p> +<p>It is just possible that this wonderful lake may in course of +time disappear entirely. Some years ago its width was over 40 miles +on an average, and its length was very much greater. Now it barely +measures 100 miles from end to end and the width varies from 10 to +60 miles. In the depth the gradual curtailment has been more +apparent. At one time the average depth was many hundred feet, and +several soundings of 1,000 feet were taken, with the result +reported, in sailors' parlance, of "No bottom." At the present time +the depth varies from 40 to 100 feet, and appears to be lessening +steadily, presumably because of the extraordinary deposit of solid +matter from the very dense waters with which it is filled.</p> +<p>The lake is a bathers' paradise, and the arrangements for +bathing from Garfield Beach are like everything else in the land of +the Mormons, extraordinary to a degree. In one year there were +nearly half a million bathers accommodated at the four principal +resorts, and so rapidly are these bathing resorts and +establishments multiplied, that the day is not distant when every +available site on the eastern shore of the lake will be +appropriated for the purpose. As a gentleman who has bathed in this +lake again and again says, it seems preposterous to speak of the +finest sea-bathing on earth a thousand miles from the ocean, +although the bathing in Great Salt Lake infinitely surpasses +anything of the kind on either the Atlantic or Pacific coasts.</p> +<p>The water contains many times more salt, and much more soda, +sulphur, magnesia, chlorine, bromine and potassium than any ocean +water on the globe. It is powerful in medicinal virtues, curing or +benefiting many forms of rheumatism, rheumatic gout, dyspepsia, +nervous disorders and cutaneous diseases, and it acts like magic on +the hair of those unfortunates whose tendencies are to +bald-headedness. It is a prompt and potent tonic and invigorant of +body and mind, and then there is no end of fun in getting +acquainted with its peculiarities. A first bath in it is always as +good as a circus, the bather being his or her own trick mule. The +specific gravity is but a trifle less than that of the Holy Land +Dead Sea.</p> +<p>The human body will not and cannot sink in it. You can walk out +in it where it is fifty feet deep, and your body will stick up out +of it like a fishing-cork from the shoulders upward. You can sit +down in it perfectly secure where it is fathoms deep. Men lie on +top of it with their arms under their heads and smoking cigars. Its +buoyancy is indescribable and unimaginable. Any one can float upon +it at the first trial; there is nothing to do but lie down gently +upon it and float.</p> +<p>But swimming is an entirely different matter. The moment you +begin to "paddle your own canoe," lively and--to the +lookers-on--mirth-provoking exercises ensue. When you stick your +hand under to make a stroke your feet decline to stay anywhere but +on top; and when, after an exciting tussle with your refractory +pedal extremities, you again get them beneath the surface, your +hands fly out with the splash and splutter of a half-dozen flutter +wheels. If, on account of your brains being heavier than your +heels, you chance to turn a somersault, and your head goes under, +your heels will pop up like a pair of frisky, dapper ducks.</p> +<p>You cannot keep more than one end of yourself under water at +once, but you soon learn how to wrestle with its novelties, and +then it becomes a thing of beauty and a joy for any summer day. The +water is delightful to the skin, every sensation is exhilarating, +and one cannot help feeling in it like a gilded cork adrift in a +jewel-rimmed bowl of champagne punch. In the sense of luxurious +ease with which it envelops the bather, it is unrivaled on earth. +The only approximation to it is in the phosphorescent waters of the +Mosquito Indian coast.</p> +<p>The water does not freeze until the thermometric mercury tumbles +down to eighteen degrees above zero, or fourteen below the ordinary +freezing point. It is clear as crystal, with a bottom of snow-white +sand, and small objects can be distinctly seen at a depth of twenty +feet. There is not a fish or any other living thing in all the +2,500 to 3,000 square miles of beautiful and mysterious waters, +except the yearly increasing swarms of summer bathers. Not a shark, +or a stingaree, to scare the timid swimmer or floater; not a +minnow, or a frog, a tadpole, or a pollywog--nothing that lives, +moves, swims, crawls or wiggles. It is the ideal sea-bathing place +of the world.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c6" id="c6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THE INVASION OF OKLAHOMA.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A History of the Indian Nation--Early Struggles of Oklahoma +Boomer--Fight between Home-Seekers and Soldiers--Scenes at the +Opening of Oklahoma Proper--A Miserable Night on the Prairie--A +Race for Homes--Lawlessness in the Old Indian Territory.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Oklahoma, the youngest of our Territories, is in many respects +also the most interesting. Many people confound Oklahoma Territory +with the Indian Territory, but the two are separate and distinct, +the former enjoying Territorial Government, while the latter, +unfortunately, is in a very anomalous condition, so far as the +making and enforcing of laws is concerned.</p> +<p>Up to within a few years Oklahoma was a part of what was then +the "Indian Territory." Now it has been separated from what may be +described as its original parent, and is entirely distinct. It +contains nearly 40,000 square miles, and has a population of about +a quarter of a million, exclusive of about 18,000 Indians. It +contains more than twice as many people to the square mile as many +of the Western States and Territories, and is in a condition of +thriving prosperity, which is extraordinary, when its extreme youth +as a Territory is considered.</p> +<p>In 1888, Oklahoma was the largest single body of unimproved land +capable of cultivation in the Southwest. It was nominally farmed by +Indian tribes, but the natural productiveness of the soil, and the +immense amount of land at their disposal, cultivated habits of +indolence, and there was a grievous and even sinful waste of +fertility. To the south was Texas, and on the north, Kansas, both +rich, powerful and wealthy States. The Indian possessions lying +between disturbed the natural growth and trend of empire.</p> +<p>Seen from car windows only, the country appeared inviting to the +eye. It was known, from reports of traders, to have all the +elements of agricultural wealth.</p> +<p>And this made the land-hungry man hungrier.</p> +<p>The era of the "boomer" began; and the "boomer" did not stop +until he had inserted an opening wedge, in the shape of the +purchase and opening to settlement of a vast area right in the +heart of the prairie wilderness. When the first opening took place +it seemed as though the supply would be in excess of the demand. +Not so. Every acre--good, bad, or indifferent--was gobbled up, and, +like as from an army of Oliver Twists, the cry went up for more. +Then the Iowa and Pottawatomie reservations were placed on the +market. They lasted a day only, and the still unsatisfied crowd +began another agitation. Resultant of this, a third bargain-counter +sale took place. The big Cheyenne and Arapahoe country was opened +for settlement. Immigrants poured in, and now every quarter-section +that is tillable there has its individual occupant and owner.</p> +<p>But still on the south border of Kansas there camped a landless +and homeless multitude. They looked longingly over the fertile +prairies of the Cherokee Strip country, stirred the camp-fire +embers emphatically, and sent another dispatch to Washington asking +for a chance to get in. Congress heard at last, and in the fall of +1893 the congestion was relieved.</p> +<p>The scenes attending the wild scramble from all sides of the +Strip are a matter of history and do not require repetition. Five +million acres were quickly taken by 30,000 farmers.</p> +<p>The old proverb or adage, which states that the man who makes +two blades of grass grow where one grew before is a public +benefactor, would seem to proclaim that Oklahoma is peopled with +philanthropists, for the sturdy pioneers who braved hardship and +ridicule in order to obtain a foothold in this promised land, have, +in five or six years, completely changed the appearance of the +country. A larger proportion of ground in this youthful Territory +shows that it is a sturdy infant, and it is doubtful whether in any +part of the United States there has been more economy in land, or a +more rapid use made of opportunities so bountifully provided by +nature.</p> +<p>Truth is often much stranger than fiction, and the story of the +invasion of Oklahoma reads like one long romance. Many men lost +their lives in the attempt, some few dying by violence, and many +others succumbing to disease brought about by hardship. Many of the +men who started the agitation to have Oklahoma opened for +settlement by white citizens are still alive, and some of them have +had their heart's desire fulfilled, and now occupy little homes +they have built in some favorite nook and corner of their much +loved, and at one time grievously coveted, country.</p> +<p>Oklahoma came into the possession of the Seminole Indians by the +ordinary process, and remained their alleged home until about +thirty years ago. In 1866, the country was ceded to the United +States Government for a consideration, and in 1873, it was surveyed +by Federal officers, and section lines established according to +law.</p> +<p>It was the natural presumption that this expense was incurred +with a view to the immediate opening of the Territory for +settlement. For various reasons, more or less valid, and more or +less the result of influence and possible corruption, the actual +opening of the country was deferred for more than twenty years +after its cession to the United States Government, and in the +meantime it occupied a peculiar condition. Immense herds of cattle +were pastured on it, and bad men and outlaws from various sections +of the country awoke reminiscences of biblical stories about cities +of refuge by squatting upon it, making a living by hunting and +indifferent agriculture, and resting secure from molestation from +officers of the law.</p> +<p>To remedy this anomaly, and to secure homes for themselves and +families in what was reported to be one of the most fertile tracts +in the world, Captain Payne and a number of determined men +organized themselves into colonies. There has always been a mania +for new land, and many people are never happy unless they are +keeping pace with the invasion of civilization into hitherto +unknown and unopened countries. Many who joined the Payne movement +were doubtless roving spirits of this character, but the majority +of them were bona fide home-seekers, who believed as citizens of +this country they had a right to quarter-sections in the promised +land, and who were determined to enforce those rights.</p> +<p>No matter, however, what were the motives of the "boomers," as +they were called from the first, it is certain that they went to +work in a business-like manner, planned a regular invasion, and +formed a number of colonies or small armies for the purpose.</p> +<p>We will follow the fortune of one of these colonies in order to +show what extraordinary difficulties they went through, and how +much more there is in heaven and earth than is dreamt of in our +humdrum philosophy. The town of Caldwell, on the southern line of +Kansas, was the camp from which the first colonists started. It +consisted of about forty men, and about 100 women and children. +Each family provided itself with such equipment and conveniences as +the scanty means at disposal made possible. A prairie schooner, or +a wagon with a covering to protect the inmates from the weather and +secure a certain amount of privacy for the women and children, was +an indispensable item. When the advance was made, there were forty +such covered wagons, each drawn by a pair of horses or mules, and +each containing such furniture as the family possessed. The more +fortunate ones also had in the wagons certain material to be used +in building the little hut, which was to be their home until they +could earn enough to build a more pretentious residence.</p> +<p>Eye witnesses describe the starting of the colony as one of the +most remarkable sights ever witnessed. The wagons advanced in +single file, and some few of the men rode on horseback in order to +act as advance guides to seek suitable camping grounds, and to +protect the occupants of the wagons from attack. In some cases one +or two cows were attached by halters to the rear of the wagons, and +there were several dogs which evidently entered heartily into the +spirit of the affair. The utmost confidence prevailed, and hearty +cheers were given as the cavalcade crossed the Kansas State line +and commenced its long and dreary march through the rich blue grass +of the Cherokee Strip.</p> +<p>The journey before the home-seekers was about 100 miles, and at +the slow rate of progress they were compelled to make, it was +necessarily a long and arduous task. Some few of the women were a +little nervous, but the majority had thoroughly fallen in with the +general feeling and were enthusiastic in the extreme. The food they +had with them was sufficient for immediate needs, and when they +camped for the night, the younger members of the party generally +succeeded in adding to the larder by hunting and fishing.</p> +<p>We have all heard of invading armies being allowed to proceed on +their march unmolested only to be treated with additional severity +on arriving at the enemies' camp. So it was with the colonists. +They got through with very little difficulty, and no one took the +trouble to interfere with their progress. Men who had been in the +promised land for the purpose, had located a suitable spot for the +formation of the proposed colony, and here the people were +directed. One of the party had some knowledge of land laws, and +after a long hunt he succeeded in locating one of the section +corners established by the recent Government survey. This being +done, quarter-sections were selected by each of the newcomers, and +work commenced with a will. Tents and huts were put up as rapidly +as possible, and before a week had passed the newcomers were fairly +well settled. They even selected a town site and built castles in +the air of a most remarkable character.</p> +<p>That they were monarchs of all they surveyed seemed to be +obvious, and for some weeks their right there was none to dispute. +Then by degrees the cowboys who were herding cattle in the +neighborhood began to drop hints of possible interference, and +while these suggestions were being discussed a company of United +States troops suddenly appeared. With very little explanation they +arrested every man in the colony for treason and conspiracy, and +proceeded to drive the colonists out of the country. The men were +compelled to hitch up their horses, and, succumbing to force of +numbers, the colonists sadly and wearily advanced to Fort Reno, +where they were turned over to the authorities. After being kept in +confinement for five days they were released, and told to get back +into Kansas as rapidly as possible. Government officials saw that +the order was carried out, and then left the colonists to +themselves.</p> +<p>The men lost no time in making up their minds to organize a +second attempt to establish homes for their families, and once more +they made the march. A bitter disappointment awaited them, for they +found that their cabins had all been destroyed and they had to +commence work over again. This they did, and they had scarcely got +themselves comfortable when another small detachment of troops +arrived to turn them out. The men were tied by means of ropes to +the tail-ends of wagons, and driven like cattle across the prairie +to the military fort. For a third time they conducted an invasion, +and for the third time they were attacked by Government troops.</p> +<p>A spirit of determination had, however, come over the men in the +interval, and an attempt was made to resist the onslaught of the +soldiers. The Lieutenant in charge was astonished at the attitude +assumed, and did not care to assume the responsibility of ordering +his men to fire, as many of the colonists were well armed and were +undoubtedly crack shots. He, accordingly, adopted more diplomatic +measures, and, by establishing somewhat friendly relations, got +into close quarters with the settlers. A rough and tumble fight +with fists soon afterwards resulted, and the hard fists and brawny +arms of the settlers proved too much for the regulars, who were for +the time being driven off.</p> +<p>The result of the boomers' victory was the sending of 600 +soldiers to dislodge them, and it being impossible to resist such a +force as this, the colonists yielded with the best grace they could +and sadly deserted the homes they had tried so hard to build up. +Some of the men were actually imprisoned for the action they had +taken, and the colony for a time was completely broken up. The +example set was followed by several others, and for some years a +conflict, not particularly creditable to the Government, went on. +No law was discovered to punish the boomers and thus put a final +end to the invasions. All that could be done was to drive the +families out as fast as they went in, a course of action far more +calculated to excite disorder than to quell it. Sometimes the +soldiers displayed a great deal of forbearance, and even went out +of their way to help the women and children and reduce their +sufferings to the smallest possible point. Again, they were +sometimes unduly harsh, and more than one infant lost its life from +the exposure the evictions brought about. The soldiers by no means +relished the work given them, and many of them complained bitterly +that it was no part of their duty to fight women and babies. Still +they were compelled to obey orders and ask no questions.</p> +<p>While the original colonists, or boomers, gained little or +nothing for themselves by the hardships they insisted on +encountering, they really brought about the opening for settlement +of Oklahoma. About the year 1885 it began to be generally +understood that the necessary proclamation would be issued, and +from all parts of the country home-hunters began to set out on a +journey, varying in length from a few hundreds to several thousand +miles. The Kansas border towns on the south were made the +headquarters for the home-seekers, and as they arrived at different +points they were astonished to find that others had got there +before them. In the neighborhood of Arkansas City, particularly, +there were large settlements of boomers, who from time to time made +efforts to enter the promised land in advance of the proclamation, +only to be turned back by the soldiers who were guarding every +trail. The majority of the newcomers thought it better to obey the +law, and these settled down, with their wagons for their homes, and +sought work with which to maintain their families until the +proclamation was issued and the country opened to them.</p> +<p>It was a long and dreary wait. The children were sent to school, +the men obtained such employment as was possible, and life went on +peacefully in some of the most peculiar settlements ever seen in +this country. Finally the Springer Bill was passed and the speedy +opening of at least a portion of Oklahoma assured. The news was +telegraphed to the four winds of heaven, and where there had been +one boomer before there were soon fifty or a hundred. In the winter +of 1888, various estimates were made as to the number of people +awaiting the President's proclamation, and the total could not have +been less than 50,000 or 60,000. Finally the long-looked-for +document appeared, and Easter Monday, 1889, was named as the date +on which the section of Oklahoma included in the bill was to be +declared open. There was a special proviso that any one entering +the promised and mysterious land prior to noon on the day named, +would be forever disqualified from holding land in it, and +accordingly the opening resolved itself into a race, to commence +promptly at high noon on the day named.</p> +<p>Seldom has such a remarkable race been witnessed in any part of +the world. The principal town sites were on the line of the Sante +Fe Railroad, and those who were seeking town lots crowded the +trains, which were not allowed to enter Oklahoma until noon. All +available rolling stock was brought into requisition for the +occasion, and provision was made for hauling thousands of +home-seekers to the towns of Guthrie and Oklahoma City, as well as +to intervening points. Before daylight on the morning of the +opening, the approaches of the railway station at Arkansas City +were blocked with masses of humanity, and every train was thronged +with town boomers, or with people in search of free land or town +lots.</p> +<p>The author was fortunate in securing a seat on the first train +which crossed the Oklahoma border, and which arrived at Guthrie +before 1 o'clock on the day of the opening. It was presumed that +the law had been enforced, and that we should find nothing but a +land-office and a few officials on the town site.</p> +<p>But such was far from being the case. Hundreds of people were +already on the ground. The town had been platted out, streets +located, and the best corners seized in advance of the law and of +the regulations of the proclamation.</p> +<p>There was no time to argue with points of law or order. Those +who got in in advance of the law were of a determined character, +and their number was so great that they relied on the confusion to +evade detection. One of their number told an interesting story to +the writer, concerning the experience he had gone through. He had +slipped into Oklahoma prior to the opening, carrying with him +enough food to last him for a few days. He found a hiding place in +the creek bank, and there laid until a few minutes before noon on +the opening day. When his watch and the sun both told him that it +lacked but a few minutes of noon, he emerged from his hiding place, +with a view to leisurely locating one of the best corner lots in +the town. To his chagrin he saw men advancing from every direction, +and he was made aware of the fact that he had no patent on his +idea, which had been adopted simultaneously by several hundred +others. He secured a good lot for himself, and sold it before his +disqualification on account of being too "previous" in his entry +was discovered.</p> +<p>As each train unloaded its immense throngs of passengers, the +scene was one that must always baffle description. The town site +was on rising ground, and men, and even women, sprang from the +moving trains, falling headlong over each other, and then rushing +up hill as fast as their legs would carry them, in the mad fight +for town lots free of charge. The town site was entirely occupied +within half an hour, and the surrounding country in every direction +was appropriated for additions to the main "city." Before night +there were at least 10,000 people on the ground, many estimates +placing the number as high as 20,000.</p> +<p>Some few had brought with them blankets and provisions, and +these passed a comparatively comfortable night. Thousands, however, +had no alternative but to sleep on the open prairie, hungry, as +well as thirsty. The water in the creek was scarcely fit to drink, +and the railroad company had to protect its water tank by force +from the thirsty adventurers and speculators.</p> +<p>The night brought additional terrors. There was no danger of +wild animals or of snakes, for the stampede of the previous day had +probably driven every living thing miles away, with the solitary +exception of ants, which, in armies ten thousand strong, attacked +the trespassers. By morning several houses had been erected, and +the arrival of freight trains loaded with provisions not only +enabled thoughtful caterers to make small fortunes, but also +relieved the newcomers of much of the distress they had been +suffering. Within a week the streets were well defined, and houses +were being built in every direction, and within six months there +were several brick buildings erected and occupied for business and +banking purposes.</p> +<p>The process of building up was one of the quickest on record, +and Guthrie, like its neighbor on the south, Oklahoma City, is +to-day a large, substantial business and financial center. Those of +our readers who crossed Oklahoma by rail, even as lately as the +winter of 1888, will remember that they saw nothing but open +prairie, with occasional belts of timber. There was not so much as +a post to mark the location of either of these two large cities, +nor was there a plow line to define their limits.</p> +<p>In no other country in the world could results such as these +have been accomplished. The amount of courage required to invest +time and money in a prospective town in a country hitherto closed +against white citizens is enormous, and it takes an American, born +and bred, to make the venture. The Oklahoma cities are not boom +towns, laid out on paper and advertised as future railroad and +business centers; from the first moment of their existence they +have been practical, useful trading centers, and every particle of +growth they have made has been of a permanent and lasting +character.</p> +<p>But if the race to the Oklahoma town sites was interesting, the +race to the homesteads was sensational and bewildering. All around +the coveted land, anxious, determined men were waiting for the word +"Go," in order to rush forward and select a future home. In some +instances the race was made in the wagons, but in many cases a +solitary horseman acted as pioneer and galloped ahead, in order to +secure prior claim to a coveted, well-watered quarter-section. +Shortly before the hour of noon, a number of boomers on the +northern frontier made an effort to advance in spite of the +protests of the soldiers on guard. These latter were outnumbered +ten to one, and could not attempt to hold back the home-seekers by +force. Seeing this fact, the young Lieutenant in charge addressed a +few pointed sentences to the would-be violators of the law. He knew +most of the men personally, and was aware that several of them were +old soldiers. Addressing these especially, he appealed to their +patriotism, and asked whether it was logical for men who had borne +arms for their country to combine to break the laws, which they +themselves had risked their lives to uphold. This appeal to the +loyalty of the veterans had the desired effect, and what threatened +to be a dangerous conflict resulted in a series of hearty +hand-shakes.</p> +<p>A mighty shout went up at noon, and the deer, rabbits and birds, +which for years had held undisputed possession of the promised +land, were treated to a surprise of the first water. Horses which +had never been asked to run before, were now compelled to assume a +gait hitherto unknown to them. Wagons were upset, horses thrown +down, and all sorts of accidents happened. One man, who had set his +heart on locating on the Canadian River near the Old Payne Colony, +rode his horse in that direction, and urged the beast on to further +exertions, until it could scarcely keep on its feet. Finally he +reached one of the creeks running into the river. The jaded animal +just managed to drag its rider up the steep bank of the creek, and +it then fell dead. Its rider had no time for regrets. He had still +four or five miles to cover, and he commenced to run as fast as his +legs would carry him. His over-estimate of his horse's powers of +endurance, and his under-estimate of the distance to be covered, +lost him his coveted home; for when he arrived a large colony had +got in ahead of him from the western border, and there were two or +three claimants to every homestead.</p> +<p>In other cases there were neck and neck races for favored +locations, and sometimes it would have puzzled an experienced +referee to have determined which was really the winner of the race. +Compromises were occasionally agreed to, and although there was a +good deal of bad temper and recrimination, there was very little +violence, and the men whose patience had been sorely taxed, behaved +themselves admirably, earning the respect of the soldiers who were +on guard to preserve order. The excitement and uproar was kept up +long after night-fall. In their feverish anxiety to retain +possession of the homes for which they had waited and raced, +hundreds of men stayed up all night to continue the work of hut +building, knowing that nothing would help them so much in pressing +their claims for a title as evidence of work on bona fide +improvements. They kept on day after day, and, late in the season +as it was, many of the newcomers raised a good crop that year.</p> +<p>The opening of other sections of the old Indian Territory, now +included in Oklahoma, took place two or three years later, when the +scenes we have briefly described were repeated. To-day, Oklahoma +extends right up to the southern Kansas line, and the Cherokee +Strip, on whose rich blue grass hundreds of thousands of cattle +have been fattened, is now a settled country, with at least four +families to every square mile, and with a number of thriving towns +and even large cities. At the present time the question of +Statehood for the youngest of our Territories is being actively +debated. No one disputes the fact that the population and wealth is +large enough to justify the step, and the only question at issue is +whether the whole of the Indian Territory should be included in the +new State, or whether the lands of the so-called civilized tribes +should be excluded.</p> +<p>The lawlessness which has prevailed in some portions of the +Indian Territory is held to be a strong argument in favor of +opening up all the lands for settlement. At present the Indians own +immense tracts of land under very peculiar conditions. A large +number of white men, many of them respectable citizens, and many of +them outlaws and refugees from justice, have married fair Cherokee, +Choctaw and Creek girls, and these men, while not recognized by the +heads of the tribes, are able to draw from the Government, in the +names of their wives, the large sums of money from time to time +distributed. Advocates of Statehood favor the allotment to each +Indian of his share of the land, and the purchase by the Government +of the immense residue, which could then be opened for +settlement.</p> +<p>Until this question is settled, the anomaly will continue of +civilization and the reverse existing side by side. Some of the +Indians have assumed the manners, dress, virtues and vices of their +white neighbors, in which case they have generally dropped their +old names and assumed something reasonable in their place. But many +of the red men who adhere to tradition, and who object to +innovation, still stick to the names given them in their boyhood. +Thus, in traveling across the Indian Territory, Indians with such +names as "Hears-Something-Everywhere," "Knows-Where-He-Walks," +"Bear-in-the-Cloud," "Goose-Over-the-Hill," "Shell-on-the-Neck," +"Sorrel Horse," "White Fox," "Strikes-on-the-Top-of-the-Head," and +other equally far-fetched and ridiculous terms and cognomens.</p> +<p>Every one has heard of Chief "Rain-in-the-Face," a +characteristic Indian, whose virtues and vices have both been +greatly exaggerated from time to time. A picture is given of this +representative of a rapidly decaying race, and of the favorite pony +upon which he has ridden thousands of miles, and which in its early +years possessed powers of endurance far beyond what any one who has +resided in countries removed from Indian settlements can have any +idea or conception of.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0371.jpg" name="Rain-in-the-Face" id= +"Rain-in-the-Face"><img src="images/m0371t.jpg" alt= +"Chief Rain-in-the-Face and his Favorite Pony" /></a> +<h4>Chief Rain-in-the-Face and his Favorite Pony</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c7" id="c7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>COWBOYS--REAL AND IDEAL.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Much Maligned Class--The Cowboy as he Is, and as he is +Supposed to be--Prairie Fever and how it is Cured--Life on the +Ranch Thirty Years Ago and Now--Singular Fashions and Changes of +Costume--Troubles Encountered by would-be Bad Men.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Among the thoroughly American types of humanity, none is more +striking or unique than the cowboy. This master of horsemanship and +subduer of wild and even dangerous cattle, has been described in so +many ways that a great difference of opinion exists as to what he +was, and what he is. We give a picture of a cowboy of to-day, and +will endeavor to show in what important respects he differs from +the cowboy of fiction, and even of history.</p> +<p>Sensational writers have described the cowboy as a thoroughly +bad man, and, moreover, as one who delights in the word "bad," and +regards it as a sort of diploma or qualification. Travelers over +the region in which the cowboy used to be predominant give him a +very different character, and speak of him as a hard-working, +honest citizen, generous to a fault, courteous to women and aged or +infirm men, but inclined to be humorous at the expense of those who +are strong and big enough to return a joke, or resent it, if they +so prefer.</p> +<p>We have spoken of the cowboy in two tenses: the present and the +past. Strictly speaking, we should, perhaps, have only used one, +for many of the best judges say that there is no such thing as a +cowboy in this day and generation. He flourished in all his glory +in the days of immense ranges, when there was an abundance of elbow +room for both man and beast, and when such modern interferences +with the cattle business as the barb-wire fence did not exist. The +work of cattle herding and feeding to-day certainly differs in a +most remarkable manner from that of thirty and even twenty years +ago, and the man has naturally changed with his work. Now, the +cowboy is, to all intents and purposes, a farm hand. He feeds the +stock, drives it to water when necessary, and goes to the nearest +market town to dispose of surplus products, with all the system and +method of a thoroughly domesticated man. Formerly he had charge of +hundreds, and perhaps thousands, of branded cattle, which ranged at +will over boundless prairies, and the day's work was frequently +varied by a set-to with some unfriendly Indians or some +exceptionally daring cattle thieves.</p> +<p>The very nature of his work used to make the cowboy somewhat +desperate in his habits, and apt to be suspicious of newcomers. He +was never such a terrible individual as has been frequently stated +in print. His work confined him to a few frontier States and +Territories, and hence he was a very convenient person to ridicule +and decry. The man who met the average cowboy face to face, +generally learned to respect him, and speedily appreciated the fact +that it paid to be at least civil. Writers who never went within +500 miles of the nearest cattle ranch or cowboy's home, treated him +with less courtesy and described him in all sorts of terms.</p> +<p>Dime literature, with its yellow covers and sensational pictures +of stage robberies and the like, has always libeled the American +cowboy to a most outrageous extent. As a result of the +misapprehensions thus created, what is known as cowboy or prairie +fever is quite a common disease among youths who are trying to +raise a mustache for a first time. The feats of recklessness, the +absolute disregard of conventionality and the general defiance +attributed to the man who herds cattle on the prairie, seem to +create a longing on the part of sensationally inclined youths, and +many of these have cut their teeth and learned their lesson in a +very different manner from what was expected.</p> +<p>Let us imagine for a moment the experiences of the young man +from the East, who has convinced himself, by careful reasoning and +reading, that nature intended him to shine in the West. It is +probable that he came to this most important conclusion many years +before, and it is not unlikely that his first cowboy enthusiasm was +fed by attacks upon the cat, with the nearest approach he could +obtain to a rawhide whip. From this primitive experience, +sensational literature, and five and ten-cent illustrated +descriptions of the adventures of "Bill, the Plunger," and "Jack, +the Indian Slayer," completed the education, until the boy, or +young man, as the case may be, determines that the hour has arrived +for him to cast away childish things and become a genuine bad man +of the West.</p> +<p>Just how he gets half way across the continent is a matter of +detail. Sometimes the misguided youth is too proud to beg and too +honest to steal, in which case he probably saves up his pocket +money and buys a cheap ticket. The more romantic and strictly +correct course to adopt is to start out without a dollar, and to +beat one's way across the continent, so as to be thoroughly +entitled to recognition on the prairie. Many a young man who has +commenced the pilgrimage towards glorified badness, has had the +fever knocked out of him before advancing 100 miles, but others +have succeeded in getting through, and have arrived in Texas, +Wyoming or Montana, as the case may have been, thoroughly convinced +of their own ability to hold their own in all company.</p> +<p>The disappointment that awaits the adventurous one is almost too +great to be expressed in words. If the cowboys were one-half as bad +as they are painted, they would proceed to demonstrate their right +to an evil reputation by murdering the newcomer, and stealing his +wearing apparel and any money he might happen to have with him. +Instead of doing this, the cowboy generally looks with amusement on +the individual who has come so many miles to join him. The greeting +is not of the exuberant character expected, and frequently the +heart of the newcomer is broken by being told to go back to his +mammy and spend a few years more in the nursery. A runaway +tenderfoot just fresh from school is not wanted on the cattle +ranch, and although Western farmers are too good-natured to resent +very severely the liberty taken, they never flatter the newcomer by +holding out any inducements or making any prophecies as to his +future.</p> +<p>The writer met a runaway enthusiast of this character a few +years ago. His destination was the extreme West. As he did not know +himself the State to which he was bound, he presumed that no one +else did. When found, he had got as far as Kansas City, and hunger +and lack of a place where he could sleep in comfort had cooled his +ardor and inaugurated a vigorous attack of home-sickness. As the +ideal cowboy life does not provide for feather beds or meals served +in courses, it was suggested to the lad that possibly he was having +a good experience in advance, and getting himself accustomed to the +privations of the life he had decided to adopt.</p> +<p>This logic did not commend itself at all to the runaway, whose +sole ambition now was to borrow enough money to telegraph a message +of penitence to his father. A small sum necessary for the purpose +was given him, and the dispatch sent. Within an hour an answer was +received and money transmitted by wire to supply the lad with a +ticket for his home, where it is exceedingly probable what little +cowboy fever he had left in him was speedily removed in +old-fashioned and regulation manner.</p> +<p>The cowboy must not be confounded with the cattle baron. Ten or +twelve years ago, when a great deal of money was made out of +raising cattle, there was an invasion of the prairie States by men +who knew nothing whatever about cattle raising, but who had made up +their minds to secure a fortune by raising steers. They took with +them as inconsistent ideas as did the youth in search of adventure. +Often they carried large sums of money, which they invested very +lavishly in business, and they also took with them ridiculously +fine clothes, patent leather boots, velveteen jackets, and other +evidences of luxury, which made them very unpopular and very +ridiculous in their new homes. Nine-tenths of these called +themselves "cattle barons," and about the same proportion obtained +a great deal of experience but very little money, while trying to +revolutionize the cattle business.</p> +<p>It is not necessary to own cattle at all to be a cowboy, +although many members of this interesting profession own a few +beasts of their own and are allowed to have them graze with the +other stock on the ranch. Generally speaking, the term used to be +applied to all those who were engaged in handling the cattle, and +in getting them together on the occasion of the annual round-ups. +The old-time cowboy did not have a very high reputation, nor was he +always looked upon quite as leniently as his surroundings demanded. +About twenty years ago, a well-known cattleman wrote the following +description of the cowboy and the life he led:</p> +<p>"If any one imagines that the life of a cowboy or ranchman is +one of ease and luxury, or his diet a feast of fat things, a brief +trial will dispel the illusion, as is mist by the sunshine. True, +his life is one of more or less excitement or adventures, and much +of it is spent in the saddle, yet it is a hard life, and his daily +fare will never give the gout. Corn bread, mast-fed bacon, and +coffee, constitute nine-tenths of their diet; occasionally they +have fresh beef, and less often they have vegetables of any +description. They do their own cooking in the rudest and fewest +possible vessels, often not having a single plate or knife and +fork, other than their pocket knife, but gather around the +camp-kettle in true Indian style, and with a piece of bread in one +hand, proceed to fish up a piece of 'sow belly,' and dine +sumptuously, not forgetting to stow away one or more quarts of the +strongest coffee imaginable, without sugar or cream. Indeed, you +would hesitate, if judging it from appearance, whether to call it +coffee or ink. Of all the vegetables, onions and potatoes are the +most desired and the oftenest used, when anything more than the +'old regulation' is had. Instead of an oven, fireplace or cooking +stove, a rude hole is dug in the ground and a fire made therein, +and the coffee pot, the camp kettle and the skillet are his only +culinary articles used.</p> +<p>"The life of the cowboy is one of considerable daily danger and +excitement. It is hard and full of exposure, but is wild and free, +and the young man who has long been a cowboy has but little taste +for any other occupation. He lives hard, works hard, has but few +comforts, and fewer necessities. He has but little, if any, taste +for reading. He enjoys a coarse practical joke, or a smutty story; +loves danger, but abhors labor of the common kind; never tires of +riding, never wants to walk, no matter how short the distance he +desires to go. He would rather fight with pistols than pray; loves +tobacco, liquor and woman better than any other trinity. His life +borders nearly upon that of an Indian. If he reads anything, it is +in most cases a blood and thunder story of the sensational style. +He enjoys his pipe, and relishes a practical joke on his comrades, +or a tale where abounds animal propensity.</p> +<p>"His clothes are few and substantial, scarce in number and often +of a gaudy pattern. The 'sombrero' and large spurs are inevitable +accompaniments. Every house has the appearance of lack of +convenience and comfort, but the most rude and primitive modes of +life seem to be satisfactory to the cowboy. His wages range from +$15.00 to $20.00 a month in specie. Mexicans can be employed for +about $12.00 per month. The cowboy has few wants and fewer +necessities, the principal one being a full supply of tobacco.</p> +<p>"We will here say for the benefit of our Northern readers, that +the term 'ranch' is used in the Southwest instead of 'farm,' the +ordinary laborer is termed a 'cowboy,' the horse used a 'cow +horse,' and the herd of horses a 'cavvie yard.'</p> +<p>"The fame of Texas as a stock-growing country went abroad in the +land, and soon after her admission to the Union, unto her were +turned the eyes of many young men born and reared in the older +Southern States, who were poor in this world's goods, but were +ambitious to make for themselves a home and a fortune. Many of this +class went to Texas, then a new and comparatively thin and +unsettled country, and began in humblest manner, perhaps for +nominal wages, to lay the foundation for future wealth and +success."</p> +<p>This is a very severe description, and relates to a class of men +who were found in the wildest parts of Texas shortly after the war. +It certainly does not adequately describe the cowboy of the last +twenty years. Another writer, who was himself for more than a +quarter of a century engaged in the work of herding cattle, gives a +much fairer description of the cowboy. He divides those entitled to +this name into three classes, and argues that there is something +noble about the name. He also claims that in view of the peculiar +associations, privations, surroundings and temptations of the +cowboy, he is entitled to much credit for the way in which he has +retained the best characteristics of human nature, in spite of his +absence from the refining influences of civilization.</p> +<p>According to this authority, the first class of cowboys include +the genuine, honest worker on the prairie, the man who has due +respect for the rights of all. He is scrupulously honest, but yet +charitable enough to look leniently on the falling away from grace +of his less scrupulous brothers, and he is loyal to a remarkable +extent to every one who has a right to claim his friendship. In the +second class is placed the less careful cowboy, who is not quite so +strict in his moral views, although no one would like to class him +as a thief. The story is told of the Irishman who found a blanket +bearing upon it the Government mark "U. S." Paddy examined the +blanket carefully and on finding the mark shouted out: "U. for +Patrick and S. for McCarty. Och, but I'm glad I've found me +blanket. Me fayther told me that eddication was a good thing, and +now I know it; but for an eddication I never would have found the +blanket."</p> +<p>Reasoning of this kind is quite common among this second class +or division of the cowboy. It is not suggested that he is exactly a +thief, because he would scorn the acts of the city light-fingered +gentleman, who asks you the time of day, and then, by a little +sleight-of-hand, succeeds in introducing your watch to a too +obliging and careless pawnbroker at the next corner. But he is a +little reckless in his ideas of what lawyers call the rights of +individuals, and he is a little too much inclined, at times, to +think that trifles that are not his own ought to be so.</p> +<p>The writer, to whom we are referring, includes in class three +the typical cowboy, and the man used by the fiction writer as a +basis for his exaggerations and romances. Into this class drifts +the cowboy who is absolutely indifferent as to the future, and who +is perfectly happy if he has enough money to enable him to buy a +fancy bridle or a magnificent saddle. These are about the beginning +and the end of his ideas of luxury; although he enjoys a good time, +he looks upon it rather as incidental and essential to pleasure. A +steady position at a small salary, a reasonable amount to do, and +fairly good quarters, constitute all he looks for or expects. He is +perfectly honest with all his indifference. He is often +whole-souled and big-hearted, constantly allows himself to be +imposed upon, but has an inconvenient habit of occasionally +standing up for his rights and resenting too much oppression. He is +exceedingly good-natured, and will often drive some stray cattle +several miles for the convenience of a perfect stranger, and a man +to whom he owes no obligation whatever.</p> +<p>It is said that such a thing as distress among the relatives or +descendants of cowboys was impossible, because of the delightful +tenderheartedness of men with rough exterior and whose daily life +makes them appear hardened. The working cowboy is seldom rich, even +in the most generous acceptation of the term. The small wages he +earns are expended almost entirely on decorations for his horse or +himself. Even when he succeeds in saving a few dollars, the money +seems to burn a hole in his pocket, and he generally lends it to +some one in greater need than himself. But every man working on a +ranch has something to spare for the widow or children of a +deceased brother, especially if he was killed in the course of his +duties. An instance of this generous-hearted disposition might well +be given, but it is sufficient to say that the rule is invariable, +and that a promise made to a dying man in this respect is never +forgotten.</p> +<p>Leaving for a moment the personal characteristics of the +much-maligned cowboy, who has been described as everything from a +stage-robber to a cutthroat, we may with profit devote a little +space to a consideration of his attire as it was, and as it is. In +the picture of a cowboy in this work the modern dress is shown very +accurately. It will be seen that the man is dressed conveniently +for his work, and that he has none of the extraordinary handicaps +to progress, in the way of grotesque decorations, which he had been +thought to believe were, at least, part and parcel of the cowboy's +wardrobe and get up. Certainly at the present time men engaged in +feeding and raising cattle are almost indifferent as to their +attire, wearing anything suitable for their purpose, and making +their selections rather with a view to the durability, than the +handsomeness, of the clothing.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0372.jpg" name="Cowboy" id="Cowboy"><img src= +"images/m0372t.jpg" alt="The Cowboy as He Is" /></a> +<h4>The Cowboy as He Is</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>But in years gone by, there was almost as much fashion changing +among the men on the prairie as among the woman in the +drawing-room. At the close of the war the first of the arbitrary +dictates of fashion went out. A special form of stirrup was +introduced. It was very narrow and exceedingly inconvenient, but it +was considered the right thing, and so everybody used it. Rawhide +was used in place of lines, and homespun garments were uniform. +Calfskin leggings, made on the prairie, with the hair on the +outside, were first worn, and large umbrella-like straw hats came +into use. A little later it was decided the straw hat was not +durable enough for the purpose. When excited a cowboy frequently +starts his horse with his hat, and when he is wearing a straw, four +or five sharp blows knock out of the hat any semblance it may ever +have had to respectability and symmetry. The wide brim woolen hat +was declared to be the correct thing, and every one was glad of the +change. The narrow stirrup gave place to a wider one, and the +stirrup leather was shortened so as to compel the rider to keep his +knees bent the whole time. The most important change in fashion +twenty years ago, was the introduction of tanned leather leggings +and of handsome bridles. Many a man now pays two or three months' +wages for his bridle, and since the fashion came in, it is probable +that many thousand dollars have been invested in ornamental +headgear for prairie horses and ponies. A new saddle, as well as +bow and tassel decorations, also came in at this period, and it is +to be admitted that for a time exaggeration in clothing became +general. It is an old joke on the prairie that the average man's +hat costs him more than his clothes.</p> +<p>Many a cowboy earning $30.00 a month has spent three times that +sum on his saddle alone. More than one man earning $25.00 a month +has invested every cent of his salary in silver buckles for his +strange looking hat. Equally extravagant is the average man as to +his saddle, bridle, and even spurs and bit. Those who talk so much +about the bad habits of these people, will hardly credit the fact +that many a cowboy abstains from liquor and tobacco for an entire +year at a stretch, simply because he wants to purchase some article +of attire, which he thinks will make him the envy of the entire +ranch.</p> +<p>The cow pony is worthy of as much attention and thought as the +cowboy. It is often said that the latter is hard and cruel, and +that he uses his pony roughly. This is far from being correct. +Between the cowboy and his pet pony there is generally a bond of +sympathy and a thorough understanding, without which the marvelous +feats of horsemanship which are performed daily would be +impossible. Perhaps in the preliminary breaking in of the pony +there is more roughness than is quite necessary. At the same time, +it should be remembered that to subdue an animal which was born on +the prairie and has run wild to its heart's content, is not a very +simple matter. The habit of bucking, which a Texas pony seems to +inherit from its ancestors, is a very inconvenient one, and an +expert rider from the East is perfectly helpless upon the back of a +bucking pony. The way in which he mounts assures the animal at once +that he is a stranger in those parts. A natural desire to unseat +the daring stranger becomes paramount, and the pony proceeds to +carry out the idea.</p> +<p>At first it moves quietly and the rider congratulates himself on +having convinced the animal that resistance will be ill vain. But +just as he begins to do this the animal gets down its head, arches +up its back, something after the manner of an angry cat, leaps into +the air and comes down on the ground with its four legs drawn +together under it, perfectly stiff and straight. The rider seldom +knows how it happened. He only knows that it felt as though a +cannon ball had struck him, and that he fell off most +ungracefully.</p> +<p>A pony never bucks viciously when a cowboy is riding it. It has +learned by long experience that the process is distinctly +unprofitable. Breaking in a pony and convincing it that the way of +the transgressor is hard, is one of the difficulties of prairie +life. When, however, it is once accomplished, an almost invaluable +assistant has been secured. The staying powers of the cow pony are +almost without limit. He will carry his master 100 miles in a day, +apparently with very little fatigue. In point of speed he may not +be able to compete with his better bred Eastern cousin, but in +point of distance covered he entirely outclasses him. Assuming an +easy gait within its powers of endurance, a pony of the prairie +will keep it up almost indefinitely. At the end of a very long +ride, the man is generally more fatigued than his steed. The +latter, after being relieved of its saddle and bridle, rolls +vigorously to get rid of the stiffness, and, after an hour or two, +is apparently in as good condition as ever.</p> +<p>The charm connected with cowboy life is found in the disregard +of strict rules of etiquette and ceremony, and in the amount of fun +which is considered to be in place around the prairie fire. We have +already seen that the wages paid to cowboys are, and always have +been, very small. The hours that have to be worked, and the +hardships that have to be encountered, seem to combine together to +deter men from leading the life at all. We know that it does +neither, and that it is seldom there is really any dearth of help +on the prairie or among the cattle herds. The greatest delight is +derived from jokes played at the expense of smart tenderfeet, who +approach the camp with too much confidence in themselves. The +commonest way of convincing the newcomer that he has made a mistake +is to persuade him to ride an exceptionally fractious pony. The +task is generally approached with much confidence, and almost +invariably ends in grief. If the stranger can retain his seat and +thus upset the rehearsed programme, the delight of the onlookers is +even greater than their disappointment, and the newcomer is +admitted at once into the good fellowship of the crowd.</p> +<p>Nothing aggravates a cowboy so much, or makes him more desperate +in his selection of tricks, as the affectation of badness on the +part of a newcomer. A year or two ago a young man, who had been +saving up his money for years in order to emulate the deeds of some +of the heroes described in the cheap books he had been reading, +arrived in the Southwest, and proceeded to introduce himself to a +number of employes of a cattle ranch who, a few years ago, would +have been known as regulation cowboys. The unlimited impudence and +the astounding mendacity of the youth amused the cowboys very much, +and they allowed him to narrate a whole list of terrible acts he +had committed in the East. Before he had been in his new company an +hour, he had talked of thefts and even killings with the +nonchalance of a man who had served a dozen years in jail. His +listeners enjoyed the absurdity of the situation, and allowed him +to talk at random without interruption.</p> +<p>The story telling was brought to an end in a very sensational +manner indeed. One of the listeners knew that a deputy sheriff was +in the neighborhood looking out for a dangerous character. Skipping +out from the party, he hunted up the deputy, and told him that one +of the hunted man's confederates was in the camp. The deputy, who +was new to the business and anxious to make a reputation for +himself, rushed to the camp and arrested the storyteller in spite +of his protests. The young man, who had been so brave a few minutes +before, wept bitterly, and begged that some one would telegraph his +mother so as to have his character established and his liberty +assured. The joke was kept up so long that the young man was +actually placed in safe keeping all night. The following morning he +was released, as there was nothing whatever against him except +artistic lying. The speed that he managed to attain while hurrying +to the nearest railroad station showed that with proper training he +might have made a good athlete.</p> +<p>He waited around the station until the next train went East, and +no passenger was more delighted when the conductor said "All +aboard," than was the youth who was going back home very much +discouraged, but very considerably enlightened.</p> +<p>On another occasion a typical cowboy was traveling on the cars, +and as is quite common with members of his profession, had been +approached by a sickly looking youth, who asked him dozens of +questions and evinced a great anxiety to embark upon prairie life. +There was very little to interest the cattle-worker, and after +awhile he determined to get rid of his not overwelcome, +self-introduced friend. He accordingly pointed, out a rough-looking +man at the far end of the car, and told the questioner that he was +the leader of a dangerous band of train robbers. The individual was +probably some hard-working man of perfectly honest habits, but the +would-be brave young man, who a few moments before had been a +candidate for a life of danger and hardship, was so horrified at +the bare idea, that he decided in a moment to emulate the Irishman +who said he had left his future behind him, and jumped from the +moving train, preferring a succession of knocks and bruises to +actual contact with a man of the character he had schooled himself +into admiring.</p> +<p>Every man who creates a disturbance, defies the law, and +discharges fire-arms at random is spoken of as a cowboy, although +in a majority of instances he has never done a day's work to +justify the name. The tough man from the East who goes West to play +the bad cowboy, is liable to find that he has been borrowing +trouble. He finds out that an altercation is likely to bring him up +facing the muzzle of a pistol in the hands of a man much more ready +to pull the trigger off-hand than to waste time in preliminary +talk. He soon learns the lesson of circumspection and, if he +survives the process, his behavior is usually modified to fit his +new surroundings. A tragic illustration of the results that may +come from a tenderfoot's attempt to masquerade as a bad man west of +the Mississippi River, took place in the winter of 1881-82 in New +Mexico, on a southward-bound Atchison train. One of the strangers +was terrorizing the others. He was a tough-looking fellow from some +Eastern city; he had been drinking, and he paraded the cars talking +loudly and profanely, trying to pick quarrels with passengers and +frequently flourishing a revolver. The train hands did not seem +inclined to interfere with him, and among the people aboard whom he +directly insulted, he did not happen to hit upon any one who had +the sand or the disposition to call him down.</p> +<p>Toward the members of a theatrical company, traveling in one of +the coaches, he particularly directed his violence and insults. His +conduct with them at last became unbearable, and when, after +threatening two actors with his revolver and frightening the women +to the verge of hysterics, he passed onward into another car, a +hurried council of war was held in the coach be had just vacated, +and every man who had a pistol got it in readiness, with the +understanding that if he returned, he was to be shot down at the +first aggressive movement. But that phase of trouble was averted, +for, as it happened, he remained in the car ahead until, at dusk, +the train rolled into Albuquerque.</p> +<p>Here the proprietor of the Armijo House was at the station with +his hackman awaiting the train's arrival. He called out the name of +his house at the door of one car, and then turning to the hackman +said: "You take care of the passengers in this car, and I will go +to the next."</p> +<p>These inoffensive words caught the ear of the tough man from the +East, who was pushing his way to the car platform. He drew his +pistol and started for the nearest man on the station platform, +shouting:</p> +<p>"You'll take care of us, will you? I'll show you smart fellows +out here that you are not able to take care of me."</p> +<p>He flourished his revolver as he spoke and, just as his feet +struck the second step of the car, he fired, the ball passing over +the head of the man on the station platform. The sound of his +pistol was quickly followed by two loud reports, and the tough man +fell forward upon the platform dead. The man at whom he had +apparently fired had drawn his revolver and shot him twice through +the heart.</p> +<p>A crowd gathered as the train rolled on, leaving the tough man +where he had fallen. Of course the man who killed him, a gambler of +the town, was fully exonerated at the inquest, and was never even +indicted for the killing.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c8" id="c8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>WARDS OF OUR NATIVE LAND.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Indians' Admirers and Critics--At School and After--Indian +Courtship and Marriage--Extraordinary Dances--Gambling by +Instinct--How "Cross-Eye" Lost his Pony--Pawning a Baby--Amusing +and Degrading Scenes on Annuity Day.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Opinions differ materially as to the rights and wrongs, +privileges and grievances, and worthiness and worthlessness of the +North American Indian. Some people think that the red man has been +shamefully treated and betrayed by the white man, and that the +catalogue of his grievances is as long as the tale of woe the +former is apt to tell, whenever he can make himself understood by a +sympathetic listener.</p> +<p>Holders of this opinion live for the most part in districts +where there are no Indians located.</p> +<p>There are others who think that the Indian has been absurdly +pampered by the Government, and that it would be as sensible to try +to change the arrangement of seasons as to attempt to prevent the +survival of the fittest, or, in other words, to interfere with the +gradual, but in their opinion inevitable, extermination of the +Indian.</p> +<p>Those holding this extreme view are for the most part those who +live near Indian reservations, and who have had opportunities of +studying the red man's character.</p> +<p>Both views are of course unduly severe. As a useful citizen the +Indian varies considerably, and it is rather as an interesting +study that we approach the subject.</p> +<p>Civilization has a very peculiar effect upon the American +Indian. The schools for Indian children are well managed, and the +education imparted should be sufficient to prevent the possibility +of a relapse into the unsatisfactory habits and the traditional +uncleanliness of the different tribes. Sometimes the effect of +education is excellent. There are many Indians to be found who have +adopted civilized modes of living, and who have built up homes and +amassed little fortunes by farming, raising cattle and trading. +Some of the Indians, notably those of the five civilized tribes or +nations in Indian Territory, resemble white men in appearance very +much. They will sometimes work side by side with swarthy +Caucasians, whose skin has been tanned by exposure to the sun, and +except for the exceptionally high cheek bone and the peculiarly +straight hair, there is little to distinguish the Indian from the +white man.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0365.jpg" name="Civilized" id="Civilized"><img src= +"images/m0365t.jpg" alt="Civilized Indians" /></a> +<h4>Civilized Indians</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>But these cases are exceptions to the general rule, which is +that education is looked upon by Indians as a degradation rather +than otherwise. Great difficulty is often experienced in persuading +parents to allow their children to be taken to the training schools +at all, and so much compulsion is often necessary that an +appearance of kidnaping is imparted. The first thing that is done +with an Indian boy or girl admitted to one of these schools, is to +wash the newcomer with considerable vigor from head to foot, and to +cut off the superfluous, and, generally speaking, thickly matted +hair.</p> +<p>The comfort of short hair, neatly combed and brushed, seldom +impresses itself upon the youthful brave. For obvious reasons this +is, however, insisted upon, and while the boy is at school he is +kept neat and clean. Directly, however, he returns to his tribe he +is in danger of relapsing into the habits of his forefathers. Too +often he is sneered at for his neatness. His short hair is looked +upon as an offense, and he is generally willing to fall in with +tribal fashions, abandon his neat clothing, and let his hair grow +and his face accumulate the regulation amount of dust and dirt.</p> +<p>The Indian trader and the pioneer generally will tell you that +the only good Indian is a dead Indian. He will repeat this adage +until it becomes wearisome in its monotony. Then, perhaps, he will +vary it by telling you that of all the mean Indians the educated +one is the meanest. This is only true in some instances, but it is +a fact that education does not invariably benefit the Indian at +all.</p> +<p>Almost all Indians are passionately fond of dancing. Several +books have been written descriptive of the various dances of +different tribes. Some of them have a hidden meaning and dangerous +significance, while others are merely for the purpose of amusement +and recreation. For these dances the Indians generally put on the +most fancy costumes they have, and their movements are sometimes +graceful and sometimes grotesque. The sign dance, as seen in some +of the Southwestern tribes, is a curious one. One of the belles of +the tribe leads a man into the dancing apartment, which consists of +one of two tepees thrown together. In one are the tomtom beaters, +in the other the dancers. In this room the couple begin to dance, +making signs to each other, the meaning of which may be: "Well, +what do you think of me? Do you like me? Do you think me pretty? +How do I affect you?" and so on, the signs all being closely +watched by the spectators, who applaud, giggle, chuckle or laugh +uproariously by turns, as the case may be. Such a dance is a +questioning bee, a collision of wits on the part of two really +facetious Indians.</p> +<p>Wit is a universal trait of the savage. Some white men draw. All +Indians draw. Some white men are cunning. All Indians are cunning. +Some white men are humorous. All Indians are witty. Dry wit, with a +proverbial philosophy in it which would have delighted the soul of +Tupper, is indigenous to the Indian. The Indian is the finest +epigrammist on earth. His sentences are pithy and sententious, +because short--never long and involved. A book of Indian wit and +wisdom would have an enormous sale, and reveal the very core of his +thought on a typical scale.</p> +<p>The Indian flirt is sweet, saucy, subtle, seductive. She has the +art of keeping in stock constantly about her a score of bucks, each +one of whom flatters himself that he, and he alone, is the special +object of her admiration. Every tribe has had its belle. Poquite +for the Modocs, Ur-ska-te-na for the Navajos, Mini-haha for the +Dakotas, Romona for the neighboring bands. These belles have their +foes among Indian women, but, however cordially hated, they never +brawl or come to blows.</p> +<p>Love-making is one of the interesting night scenes in an Indian +camp. When a young man wants to court a pretty red couquette, he +stands at the door of his lodge on a bright day and flashes a ray +of light from his sun-glass on the face of his sweetheart far away. +She sees the ray as it falls on her, and follows in the direction +whence it is thrown, right or left. She understands the secret of +these flash lights. Soon the lovers meet, each under a blanket; not +a word, not a salutation is exchanged; they stand near each other +for a time and then retire, only to repeat the affair day after +day.</p> +<p>At last, upon some favorable night, the Indian youth visits the +door of her lodge; she comes out and sits down on the ground beside +him; still no word is spoken. At last she arises from the ground; +he also rises, and standing before her, throws his blanket over +both of them. No sooner has he done so than she doffs her blanket, +letting it fall upon the ground, which is the admission on her part +that she loves him, and does him obeisance as her future lord and +master.</p> +<p>Every Indian camp at night is full of such lovers, with wooings +as sweet, lips as willing, embraces as fond, lives as romantic, +hearts as true, and elopements as daring and desperate as ever +graced a Spanish court. The old people come together with their +friends and hold a council. "How many ponies can he pay for her?" +has a good deal to do with the eligibility of the suitor. That +night he brings his articles of dowry to the door of his fiancee. +If they are still there next morning, he is rejected; if not, +accepted.</p> +<p>No formal marriage ceremony is gone through as a rule. The heart +is the certificate and the Great Spirit the priest. Under the +tribal government of the Indians, the rights of women were +respected and clearly defined. She was the head of the house, and +all property, save an insignificant amount, descended at death to +her. She was in many tribes personified as the principal object of +worship, prayer and adoration, in the tutelary goddess of the +tribe. Now all is changed. The Indian of to-day is not the Indian +of fifty years ago, and cannot be studied in the same light. His +manners, customs and habits are all changed, and polygamy, more and +more, creeps in with all its appalling degradations.</p> +<p>On special occasions an entire tribe is gathered under an open +space in the cottonwoods to celebrate their principal dances. Hands +are wildly waved above the heads of the dancers around a central +fire of logs, piled in a conical heap. Around this blazing pile +runs the dark circle which was built at sunset, inclosing sacred +ground, which must not be trespassed on. The old chanter stands at +the gate of the corral and sings. The men built the dark circle in +less than an hour. When done, the corral measures forty paces in +diameter. Around it stands a fence eight feet high, with a gate in +the east ten feet wide.</p> +<p>At night-fall many of the Navajo people move, temporarily, all +their goods and property into the corral, and abandon their huts or +hogans. Those who do not move in are watchers to protect their +property, for there are thieves among the Navajos. At 8 o'clock a +band of musicians enters, and, sitting down, begins a series of +cacophonous sounds on a drum. As soon as the music begins, the +great wood pile is lighted. The conflagration spreads rapidly and +lights the whole landscape and the sky. A storm of red, whirling +sparks fly upward, like bright golden bees from out a hive, to a +height of a hundred feet. The descending ashes fall in the corral +like a light shower of snow. The heat soon grows so intense that in +the remotest parts of the enclosure it is necessary for a person to +screen his face when he looks towards the fire.</p> +<p>Suddenly a warning whistle is heard in the outer darkness, and a +dozen forms, lithe and lean, dressed only with the narrow white +breech-clout and mocassins, and daubed with white earth until they +seem a group of living marbles, come bounding through the entrance, +yelping like wolves, and slowly moving round the fire. As they +advance, in single file, they throw their bodies into diverse +attitudes, some graceful, some strained, some difficult, some +menacing, and all grotesque. Now they face the east, now the west, +now the south, now the north, bearing aloft their slender wands, +tipped with eagle down, holding and waving them with surprising +effects. Their course around the fire is to the left, east, west, +south, north, a course invariably taken by all the dancers of the +night.</p> +<p>When they have circled the fire twice, they begin to thrust +their wands toward it. Their object is to try to burn off the tip +of eagle down. They dash up to the fire, crawl up to it on their +faces, run up holding their heads sidewise, dart up backward and +approach it in all sorts of attitudes. Suddenly, one approaching +the flaming pile throws himself on his back, with his head to the +fire, and swiftly thrusts his wand into the flames. Many are the +unsuccessful attempts, but at length, one by one, they all succeed +in burning the downy balls from the end of their wands. As each +accomplishes his feat, it becomes necessary, as the next duty, to +restore the ball of down, which is done by refitting the ring held +in the hand with down upon it, and putting it on the head of the +aromatic sumac wand.</p> +<p>The dance customs and ideas differ with the tribes and +localities. Sometimes the dance is little more than an exhibition +of powers of endurance. Men or women, or both, go through fatiguing +motions for hours and even days in succession, astounding +spectators by their disregard of the traditions of their race, so +far as idleness is concerned. Other dances are grotesque and +brutal. On special occasions weird ceremonies are indulged in, and +the proceedings are sensational in the extreme.</p> +<p>Of the ghost dance and its serious import, readers of the daily +papers are familiar. Of the war dances of the different tribes a +great deal has also been written, and altogether the dance lore of +the American Indian is replete with singular incongruities and +picturesque anomalies. Dancing with the Indian is often a religious +exercise. It involves hardship at times, and occasionally the +participants even mutilate themselves in their enthusiasm. Some of +the tribes of the Southwest dance, as we shall see later, with +venomous snakes in their hands, allowing themselves to be bitten, +and relying on the power of the priests to save them from evil +consequences.</p> +<p>The Indians gamble as if by instinct. On one occasion the writer +was visiting a frontier town just after its settlement. Indians +were present in very large numbers, and in a variety of ways they +got hold of a good deal of money. The newcomers from the Eastern +States were absolutely unprepared for the necessary privations of +frontier life. Hence they were willing to purchase necessary +articles at almost any price, while they were easily deluded into +buying all sorts of articles for which they had no possible need. +The Indians, who are supposed to be civilized, took full advantage +of the situation, and brought into town everything that was of a +salable character, frequently obtaining three or four times the +local cash value.</p> +<p>With the money thus obtained they gambled desperately. One +Indian, who boasted of the terrible name of "Cross-Eye," brought in +two ponies to sell. One of them was an exceptionally +ancient-looking animal, which had long since outlived its +usefulness, and which, under ordinary local conditions, could +certainly have been purchased for $4.00 or $5.00. A friendly Indian +met Mr. "Cross-Eye", and a conversation ensued as to the value of +the pony and the probable price that it would realize. The two men +soon got angry on the subject, and finally the owner of the pony +bet his animal's critic the pony against $20.00 that it would +realize at least the last-named sum.</p> +<p>With this extra stimulus for driving a good bargain, the man +offered his pony to a number of white men, and finally found one +who needed an animal at once, and who was willing to pay $20.00 for +the antiquated quadruped. "Cross-Eye" made a number of guttural +noises indicative of his delight, and promptly collected the second +$20.00.</p> +<p>He had thus practically sold a worthless pony for $40.00, and +had it not been for his innate passion for gambling, would have +done a very good day's business. A few hours later, however, he was +found looking very disconsolate, and trying very hard to sell some +supposed curiosities for a few dollars with which to buy a blanket +he sorely needed. His impecuniosity was easily explained. Instead +of proceeding at once to sell his second pony, he turned his +attention first to gambling, and in less than an hour his last +dollar had gone. Then, with the gamester's desperation, he had put +up his second pony as a final stake, with the result that he lost +his money and his stock in trade as well. He took the situation +philosophically and stoically, but when he found it impossible in +the busy pioneer town to get even the price of a drink of whisky +for his curiosities, he began to get reckless, and was finally +escorted out of the town by two or three of his friends to prevent +him getting mixed up in a fight.</p> +<p>When the Indians have enough energy they gamble almost day and +night. The women themselves are generally kept under sufficient +subjection by their husbands to make gambling on their part +impossible, so far as the actual playing of games of chance is +concerned. But they stand by and watch the men. They stake their +necklaces, leggings, ornaments, and in fact, their all, on the +play, which is done sometimes with blue wild plum-stones, +hieroglyphically charactered, and sometimes with playing bones, but +oftener with common cards. Above the ground the tom-tom would be +sounded, but below ground the tom-tom was buried.</p> +<p>An Indian smokes incessantly while he gambles. Putting the +cigarette or cigar to his mouth he draws in the smoke in long, deep +breaths, until he has filled his lungs completely, when he begins +slowly to emit the smoke from his nose, little by little, until it +is all gone. The object of this with the Indian is to steep his +senses more deeply with the narcotizing soporific. The tobacco they +smoke is generally their own raising.</p> +<p>"The thing that moved me most," writes a traveler, describing a +visit to an Indian gambling den, "was the spectacle in the furthest +corner of the 'shack' of an Indian mother, with a pappoose in its +baby-case peeping over her back. There she stood behind an Indian +gambler, to whom she had joined her life, painted and beaded and +half intoxicated. The Indian husband had already put his saddle in +pawn to the white professional gambler for his $5.00, and it was +not five minutes before the white gambler had the saddle and $5.00 +both. Then, when they had nothing else left to bet, so intense was +their love for gambling, they began to put themselves in pawn, +piecemeal, saying: 'I'll bet you my whole body.' That means 'I'll +put myself in pawn to you as your slave to serve you as you will +for a specified time.'</p> +<p>"So it was that this Indian mother stood leaning back wearily +against the wall, half drunk and dazed with smoke and heat, when +all at once the Indian who lived with her said to her in Indian: +'Put in the baby for a week. Then pay-day will come.' It was done. +The baby was handed over. That is what civilization has done for +the Indian. Its virtues escapes him; its vices inoculate him."</p> +<p>One of these vices is gambling. The Indian is kept poor all the +year round and plucked of every pinfeather. That is the principal +reason why he steals, not only to reimburse himself for loss, but +also to avenge himself upon the white man, who he knows well enough +has constantly robbed him.</p> +<p>Gambling, as witnessed in the Indian camp at night, is a very +different affair from the cache. The tom-tom notifies all that the +bouts with fortune are about to begin. During the game the music is +steadily kept up. In the intervals between the games the players +all sing. Crowds surround the camp. When a man loses heavily the +whole camp knows it in a few minutes, and not infrequently the wife +rushes in and puts a stop to the stake by driving her chief away. +Gambling is the great winter game. It is often played from morning +till night, and right along all night long. Cheating and trickery +of every sort are practiced.</p> +<p>"Lizwin" or "mescal" are the two drinks made by the Indians +themselves, one from corn and the other from the "maguay" plant. +The plains Indians drink whisky. To gamble is to drink, and to +drink is to lose. Gambling is the hardest work that you can +persuade an Indian to do, unless threatened by starvation. +Different tribes gamble differently.</p> +<p>The Comanches, undoubtedly, have by far the most exciting and +fascinating gambling games. The Comanche puzzles, tricks and +problems are also decidedly superior to those of any other nation. +The gambling bone is used by the Comanches. The leader of the game +holds it up before the eyes of all, so that all can see it; he then +closes his two hands over it, and manipulates it so dexterously in +his fingers that it is simply impossible to tell which hand the +bone is in. In a moment he suddenly flings each closed hand on +either side of him down into the outreaching hand of the player +next to him.</p> +<p>The game commences at this point. The whole line of players +passes, or pretends to pass, this bone on from one to another, +until at last every hand is waving. All this time the eyes along +the opposite line of gamblers are eagerly watching each shift and +movement of the hands, in hopes of discovering the white flash of +the bone. At last some one descries the hand that holds the bone, +or thinks so. He points out and calls out for his side. The hand +must instantly be thrown up. If it is right, the watching side +scores a point and takes the bone. The sides change off in this way +until the game is won. The full score is twenty-one points. The +excitement produced by this game is at times simply +indescribable.</p> +<p>The Utes play with two bones in each hand, one of which is +wrapped about with a string. The game is to guess the hand that +holds the wrapped bone. The plum-stone game is played by the plains +Indians. It is only another name for dice throwing. The plum-stones +are graved with hieroglyphics, and counts are curiously made in a +way that often defies computation by white men. The women gamble +quite as much as the men, when they dare, and grow even more +excited over the game than their lords. Their game, as witnessed +among the Cheyennes, is played with beads, little loops and long +horn sticks made of deer foot.</p> +<p>The children look on and learn to gamble from their earliest +childhood, and soon learn to cheat and impose on their juniors. +Their little juvenile gambling operations are done principally with +arrows. Winter breeds sloth, and sloth begets gambling, and +gambling, drink. There is no conviviality in Indian drinking bouts. +The Indian gets drunk, and dead drunk, as soon as he possibly can, +and finds his highest enjoyment in sleeping it off. His nature +reacts viciously under drink, however, in many cases, and he is +then a dangerous customer.</p> +<p>The women of many tribes are a most pitiable lot of hard +working, ragged and dirty humanity. Upon them falls all the +drudgery of the camp; they are "hewers of wood and drawers of +water," and bend under immense burdens piled upon their backs, +while thousands of ponies browse, undisturbed, in every direction. +As the troops are withdrawn, the squaws swoop down upon the +deserted camps, and rapidly glean them of all that is portable, for +use in their domestic economy. An Indian fire would be considered a +very cheerless affair by the inmates of houses heated by modern +appliances; but such as it is--a few sticks burning with feeble +blaze and scarcely penetrating the dense smoke filling the tepee +from the ground to the small opening at the top--it consumes fuel, +and the demand is always greater than the supply, for the reason +that an Indian has no idea of preparation for future necessities. +If the fire burns, all right; when the last stick is laid on, a +squaw will start for a fresh supply, no matter how cold and stormy +the weather may be.</p> +<p>The poetical Indian maiden may still exist in the vivid +imagination of extreme youth, but she is not common to-day. The +young girls affect gay attire, and are exempt from the hardships of +toil which are imposed on their elder sisters, mothers and +grandams, but their fate is infinitely worse. Little beauty is to +be discerned among them, and in this regard time seems to have +effaced the types which were prevalent a few years ago.</p> +<p>Annuity day is a great event in the life of every Agency Indian, +and if the reader would see Indian life represented in some of its +most interesting features, there is no more suitable time to select +for a visit to any Agency. It is a "grand opening," attended by the +whole tribe; but the squaws do not enjoy quite the freedom of +choice in the matter of dress goods, or receive such prompt +attention from the clerks as our city ladies are accustomed to. +Even at 9 o'clock in the morning, notwithstanding the fact that the +actual distribution would not take place until noon, the nation's +wards are there, patiently waiting for the business of the day to +begin. Stakes have been driven into the ground to mark the space to +be occupied by each band, and behind them, arranged in a +semicircle, are the different families, under the charge of a head +man. The bands vary in numbers, both of families and individuals, +but they all look equally solemn as they sit on the ground, with +their knees drawn up under their chins, or cross-legged like Turks +and tailors.</p> +<p>The scene now becomes one of bustle and activity on the part of +the Agency people, who begin rapidly filling wagon after wagon with +goods from the store-houses. Blankets of dark blue material, cotton +cloth, calico of all colors and patterns, red flannel, gay woolen +shawls, boots and shoes that make one's feet ache to look at them, +coffee pots, water buckets, axes, and numerous other articles, are +piled into each wagon in the proportion previously determined by +conference with the head men. A ticket is then given to the driver, +bearing the number of the stake and the name of the head man. Away +goes the wagon; the goods are thrown out on the ground in a pile at +the proper stake, and that completes the formal transfer to the +head man, who then takes charge of them, and, with, the assistance +of a few of the bucks designated by himself, divides the various +articles, according to the wants of the families and the amount of +goods supplied.</p> +<p>During the rush and fury of the issue and division of the goods, +the sombre figures in the background have scarcely moved. Not one +has ventured to approach the center where the bucks are at work, +measuring off the cloth, etc.; they are waiting for the tap of the +bell, when they will receive just what the head man chooses to give +them. There is no system of exchange there; it is take what you get +or get nothing. In a great many cases they do not use the goods at +all, but openly offer them for sale to the whites, who, no doubt, +find it profitable to purchase at Indian prices.</p> +<p>As soon as the issue is completed, a crowd of Indians gather in +front of the trader's store to indulge their passion for gambling, +and in a short space of time a number of blankets and other +articles change hands on the result of pony races, foot races or +any other species of excitement that can be invented. There is a +white man on the ground who is, no doubt, a professional runner, +and the Indians back their favorite against him in a purse of over +$30.00, which the white man covers, and wins the race by a few +inches. The Indians will not give up, and make similar purses on +the two succeeding days, only to lose by an inch or two. There is a +master of ceremonies, who displays a wonderful control over the +Indians. He makes all the bets for the red men, collecting +different amounts for a score or more, but never forgetting a +single item or person.</p> +<p>Ration day brings out the squaws and dogs in full force; the one +to pack the rations to camp, and the latter to pick up stray bits. +A few at a time the squaws enter the store-house and receive their +week's supply of flour, coffee, sugar, salt, etc., for themselves +and families. The beef is issued directly from the slaughter-house, +and the proceeding is anything but appetizing to watch. The beeves +to be killed are first driven into a corral, where they are shot by +the Indian butchers; when the poor beasts have been shot to death, +they are dragged to the door of the slaughter-house and passed +through the hands of half-naked bucks, who seem to glory in the +profusion of blood, and eagerly seek the position on account of the +perquisites attached to it in the way of tempting (?) morsels which +usually go to the dogs or on the refuse heap. The beef is issued as +fast as it can be cut up, at the rate of half a pound a day for +each person, regardless of age; bacon is also issued as a part of +the meat ration.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c9" id="c9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>CIVILIZATION--ACTUAL AND ALLEGED.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Tried in the Balances and Found Wanting--Indian Archers--Bow and +Arrow Lore--Barbarous Customs that Die Slowly--"Great Wolf," the +Indian Vanderbilt--How the Seri were Taught a Valuable +Lesson--Playing with Rattlesnakes with Impunity.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Does Prohibition prohibit? is a question politicians and social +reformers ask again and again. Does civilization civilize? is a +question which is asked almost exclusively by persons who are +interested in the welfare of the American Indian, and who come in +daily contact with him.</p> +<p>In the preceding chapter we have seen some little of the +peculiar habits of the American Indian, civilized and otherwise, +and it will be interesting now to see to what extent the white +man's teaching has driven away primeval habits of living, hunting +and fighting. Within the last few weeks, evidence of a most +valuable character on this question has been furnished by the +report submitted to the Secretary of the Interior by the Commission +sent to investigate matters concerning the five civilized tribes of +Indians in the Indian Territory. This says that they have +demonstrated their incapacity to govern themselves, and recommends +that the trust that has been reposed in them by the Government +should be revoked.</p> +<p>The courts of justice have become helpless and paralyzed. +Murder, violence and robbery are an every-day occurrence. It was +learned by the Commission that fifty-three murders occurred in the +months of September and October in one tribe only, and not one of +the culprits was brought to justice. The Dawes Commission +recommends that a large portion of the Indian reservation be +annexed to Oklahoma; this action to be followed by forming that +country into a Territory. But to accomplish this, it would be +necessary that the consent of the Indians be obtained, and this is +doubtful.</p> +<p>The statement that the Indians have cast aside their ancient +weapons and adopted more modern ones, and that through the use of +them, they are gradually extending their hunting grounds beyond the +lines of their reservations, is false. The report of the Commission +makes this clearly known. Throughout the West the Indians still +trust to their bows and arrows. On the northwest coast most of the +Indians live by hunting and fishing. They use principally the bow +and arrow, knife, war club and lance. In the North Pacific Ocean +are several islands inhabited only by Indians. In the Queen +Charlotte and the Prince of Wales Archipelago is found one of the +most remarkable races of aborigines on the American continent. +These are the Haida tribes, and consist of strikingly intelligent +Indians. They acquire knowledge readily; learn trades and exhibit +much ingenuity in following the teachings of missionaries and +traders. But for all that, they still cling with something +bordering upon affection to the primitive weapons of their +race.</p> +<p>During the long winter nights the old Indians seat themselves +before the fire and carve bows, ornament club handles, and feather +and point arrows. Perhaps in some of the tepees hang polished guns +furnished by the Government, but they are more for ornament than +use. This evening work is accompanied by the low croaking of some +old Indian, who tells over again the legends, folk-lore and nursery +tales of their grandfathers and grandmothers.</p> +<p>The Haida tribe is more rapidly advancing in civilization than +any of its neighbors, yet they still carve and paint bows, arrows, +club handles and paddles. The Indians still cling to other rude +implements and take not kindly to metal ones. Rude knives are still +used for skinning deer, especially by the old Indians. The axe, of +course, is employed for cutting trees and excavating canoes and +mortars. It has really taken the place of the stone chisel, yet +many old men prefer burning the roots of the tree until it can be +made to fall by giving it a few hacks with the rude stone +hatchet.</p> +<p>In archery, the Indian has scarcely been excelled. With a quick +eye and a powerful muscle, he sends the arrow as unerringly as the +archers of olden time.</p> +<p>The Indian bow is usually from three and one-half to four feet +in length, with such a difficult spring that one with no experience +can scarcely bend it sufficiently to set the string. Different +tribes, of course, carry bows of different lengths, the Senecas +having the longest. The best of woods for making bows are Osage +orange, hickory, ash, elm, cedar, plum and cherry; some of these +are strengthened with sinews and glue. Almost every tribe has three +sizes, the largest being used for war purposes, and until an Indian +can handle this war bow, he is not considered entitled to be called +a warrior.</p> +<p>Some claim the Sioux and the Crows make the best bows, although +the Apaches come close in the rank. When the Sioux bow is unstrung, +it is a straight piece of wood, while the Apaches and the Southern +Indians make a perfect Cupid's bow. The Crows often use elk horns +as material, and carve them beautifully. The Sioux, to make the +straight piece of wood more elastic, string the backs with sinews. +Often these are beautifully beaded and leathered, quite equaling, +as a piece of art, the elaborate elk horn bows made by the Crows. +The Comanches' bows are covered with sinew, much like those of the +Apaches. The object of practice is to enable the bowman to draw the +bow with sudden and instant effect. It is seldom that the Indian +has need of throwing the arrow to a great distance.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0360.jpg" name="Uncivilized" id="Uncivilized"><img src= +"images/m0360t.jpg" alt="An Uncivilized Savage" /></a> +<h4>An Uncivilized Savage</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The bow of the Western Indian is small and apparently +insignificant, though its owner makes it very powerful, indeed. +From his babyhood days he has habituated it to his use, until it +has become, as it were, a very part of his nature. The Indian +studies to get the greatest power out of the smallest possible +compass, and he finds a short bow on horseback far more easily used +and much more reliable in its execution. In the Far West, bows are +made largely of ash, and are lined with layers of buffalo or deer +sinews on the back. The Blackfeet have in use very valuable bows of +bone. Other tribes make use of the horns of mountain sheep. +Sometimes the bone bows will fetch very large sums of money, and +deals have been noticed in which the consideration for one of them +was a pair of ponies, with five pounds of butter thrown in as +make-weight.</p> +<p>An athletic Indian on a fleet horse can do terrible execution +with one of these bows, which, even in these days of repeating +rifles, is by no means to be despised as a weapon. No one can +estimate the force of a throw from one of them when an artistic +archer is in charge. The effects from a wound from an arrow are so +distressing that it is quite common to accuse an Indian of using +poisoned arrows, when possibly such a fiendish idea never entered +his head. Only those who have ridden side by side with an Indian +hunter really know how much more powerful an arrow shot is than the +average man supposes.</p> +<p>In war the Indians would even now arm themselves in part with +bow, quiver, lance, war club and shield. The Northwestern tribes +are partial to fighting with the bow and lance, protected with a +shield. This shield is worn outside of the left arm, after the +manner of the Roman and Grecian shield.</p> +<p>The Western Indians are fonder of horseback riding than the +Eastern tribes, and have learned to wield their weapons while +mounted. They are taught to kill game while running at full speed, +and prefer to fight on horseback. Some of them are great cowards +when dismounted, but seated on an Indian pony they are +undaunted.</p> +<p>It is a mistake to suppose that arrow-heads are no longer +manufactured; the art of fashioning them is not lost. Almost every +tribe manufactures its own. Bowlders of flint are broken with a +sledge-hammer made of a rounded pebble of hornstone set in a +twisted withe. This bone is thought to be the tooth of the sperm +whale. In Oregon the Indian arrow is still pointed with flint. The +Iroquois also used flint until they laid aside the arrow for the +lack of anything to hunt. The Iroquois youth, though the rifle has +been introduced largely into his tribe, will have none of it, but +takes naturally to the bow and arrow. Steel for arrow-heads is +furnished by the fur-traders in the Rocky Mountains, and iron heads +are often made from old barrel hoops, fashioned with a piece of +sandstone. In shooting with the bow and arrow on horseback, the +Indian horse is taught to approach the animal attacked on the right +side, enabling its rider to throw the arrow to the left. Buffalo +Bill was an adept at slaughtering game on horseback, and he won his +great bet at killing the greatest number of buffaloes, by following +the custom of the Indians and shooting to the left. The horse +approaches the animal, his halter hanging loose upon his neck, +bringing the rider within three or four paces of the game, when the +arrow or rifle ball is sent with ease and certainty through the +heart.</p> +<p>Indians who have the opportunity to ride nowadays, still +exercise with a lance twelve or fifteen feet in length. In their +war games and dances they always appear with this lance and shield. +The spears are modern and have a blade of polished steel, and the +shields are made of skin. Those of old make are of buffalo neck. +The skin is soaked and hardened with a glue extracted from the +hoofs. The shields are arrow-proof, and will throw off a rifle shot +if held obliquely, and this the Indian can do with great skill. +Since there is no war or the occasion for the use of these arms, +except in games of practice, many of the Indians, for a few bottles +of "fire water," have sold their best shields, and now they are +seen scattered over the country, preserved as curios.</p> +<p>It is folly to assume that the Indians have wholly or partly +done away with their barbaric customs. In their celebrations it is +their great joy to cast off their clothing and to paint their +bodies all colors of the rainbow, wear horns on their heads and +make themselves look as hideous as possible. The arrow game is +introduced--never are there demonstrations with the modern +weapons--and the man is esteemed above all others who can throw the +greatest number of arrows in the sky before the first one falls. In +hunting, the Sioux kill muskrats with spears, as they did in early +days spear the buffaloes, managing to get close to them by being +dressed in wolf skin, and going on all fours. There are Indians who +would, on horseback, attack and kill a bear with a lance, but are +afraid to molest the animal unless they have the Indian pony as a +means of escape.</p> +<p>The arrow-heads of chert used for hunting are peculiarly +fastened, in order to make the arrow revolve. The Indian feathers +the arrow for the same purpose, and also carves the arrow shaft +with a spiral groove. This is not, as has been supposed, to let the +blood out of the wound, but to make the arrow carry.</p> +<p>Every tribe has its own arrow. It is claimed that the Pawnees +are the best manufacturers. The Comanches feather their arrows with +two feathers; the Navajos, Utes and all Apaches, except the Tontos, +have three feathers--the Tontos using four feathers for each shaft. +The bird arrow is the very smallest made.</p> +<p>"I have practiced" says one traveler, "for hours with the Utes, +uselessly trying to blame the twist of the feathered arrow for my +bad shots. The Indians say the carving and feathers are so arranged +as to give the arrow the correct motion, and one old chief on +seeing the twist in the rifle barrel by which the ball is made to +revolve in the same manner, claimed that the white man stole his +idea from the Indian."</p> +<p>Stones, with grooves around their greatest circumference, are +secured to a handle by a withe or thong and become war clubs. They +are dangerous weapons in the hand of an Indian. Tomahawks, +manufactured by white men, have succeeded the war club in a way, as +it is claimed the rifle has the bow and arrow. Recent tomahawks +taken from the Indians bear an English trade-mark. They originally +cost about 15 cents, and were sold to the Indians for nothing less +than a horse, and perhaps two.</p> +<p>Chief "Wolf," an Indian Croesus, and the Vanderbilt of the red +men, though he is worth over $500,000 and drives at times in an +elegant coach, clings closely to his tepee, ever demonstrating the +savage part of his life.</p> +<p>He lives at Fishhook Bay, on the Snake River, in the State of +Washington. He is of the Palouse Snake Indians, and though he has a +comfortable house, he never sleeps there, but goes to the tepee, no +matter how inclement the weather. In the days when the buffalo were +plenty, "Wolf" was a great hunter. He tells a tale of driving 3,000 +bison over a bluff near the Snake, where they were all killed by +the fall. This is supposed to be true, because until late years the +place was a mass of bones. Though he has his guns and all the +modern fire-arms, both he and his children cling to the primitive +weapons of war.</p> +<p>The correspondence between the Governments of the United States +and Mexico over the brutal murder of two men by the Seri Indians, +seems to show that some at least of the North American Indians have +gained nothing at all from the civilizing influences which are +supposed to have extended for so many years. The deed had no other +motive than pure fiendishness. Small as is the tribe of Seris--they +number only about 200 souls--these savages are the most +blood-thirsty in North America. For a long time they have +terrorized Sonora, but the Mexican Government seems powerless to +control them.</p> +<p>The tribe was visited recently by an expedition from the Bureau +of Ethnology, which has just returned to Washington with some very +interesting information. Prof. W. J. McGee, who led the party, +says: "It is understood that the Seris are cannibals--at all events +they eat every white man they can slay. They are cruel and +treacherous beyond description. Toward the white man, their +attitude is exactly the same as that of a white man toward a +rattlesnake--they kill him as a matter of course, unless restrained +by fear. Never do they fight in open warfare, but always lie in +ambush. They are copper-colored Ishmaelites. It is their custom to +murder everybody, white, red or Mexican, who ventures to enter the +territory they call their own."</p> +<p>In many respects the Seris are the most interesting tribe of +savages in North America. They are decidedly more primitive in +their way than any other Indians, having scarcely any arts worth +mentioning. In fact, they have not yet advanced as far as the stone +age. The only stone implement in common use among them is a rude +hammer of that material, which they employ for beating clay to make +a fragile and peculiar kind of pottery. When one of the squaws +wishes to make meal of mesquite beans, and she has no utensil for +the purpose, she looks about until she finds a rock with an upper +surface, conveniently hollow, and on this she places the beans, +pounding them with an ordinary stone.</p> +<p>The Seris live on the Island of Tiburon, in the Gulf of +California. They also claim 5,000 square miles of the mainland in +Sonora. Their dwellings are the rudest imaginable. A chance rock +commonly serves for one wall of the habitation; stones are piled up +so as to make a small enclosure, and the shell of a single great +turtle does for a roof. The house is always open on one side, and +is not intended as a shelter from storms, but chiefly to keep off +the sun. The men and women wear a single garment like a petticoat, +made of pelican skin; the children are naked. Not far from Tiburon, +which is about thirty miles long by fifteen miles wide, there is a +smaller island where pelicans roost in vast numbers. The Seris go +at night and with sticks knock over as many birds as they +require.</p> +<p>These Indians are fond of carrion. It makes no difference to +them whether a horse has died a natural death a week or a month +ago, they devour the flesh greedily. The feet of the animal they +boil until those parts are tender enough to bite. The Seris are +among the very dirtiest of savages. Their habits in all respects +are filthy. They seem to have almost no amusements, though the +children play with the very rudest dolls. Before the whites came +they used pieces of shells for cutting instruments. They are +accustomed to killing deer by running and surrounding the animals. +No traditions of sufficient interest to justify recording in print +appear to exist among these people. The most interesting ornament +seen on any member of the tribe was a necklace of human hair, +adorned with the rattles of rattlesnakes, which abound in the +territory infested with these remnants of all that is most +objectionable among the aboriginal red men of this continent.</p> +<p>Physically speaking, the Seris are most remarkable. They are of +great stature, the men averaging nearly six feet in height, with +splendid chests. But the most noticeable point about them is their +legs, which are very slender and sinewy, resembling the legs of the +deer. Since the first coming of the Spaniards they have been known +to other tribes as the runners. It is said that they can run from +150 to 200 miles per day, not pausing for rest. The jack rabbit is +considered a very fleet animal, yet these Indians are accustomed to +catch jack rabbits by outrunning them.</p> +<p>For this purpose, three men or boys go together. If the rabbit +ran straight away from the pursuer it could not be taken, but its +instinct is to make its flight by zigzags. The hunters arrange +themselves a short distance apart. As quickly as one of them starts +a rabbit, a second Indian runs as fast as he can along a line +parallel with the course taken by the animal. Presently the rabbit +sees the second Indian, and dashes off at a tangent. By this time +the third hunter has come up and gives the quarry another turn. +After the third or fourth zigzag, the rabbit is surrounded, and the +hunters quickly close in upon him and grab him.</p> +<p>It is an odd fact that this method of catching jack rabbits is +precisely the same as that adopted by coyotes, which work +similarily by threes. By this strategy, these wild dogs capture the +rabbits, though the latter are more fleet by far. It is believed +that no other human being approaches the Seris in celerity of +movement. A favorite sport of the boys is lassoing dogs. Mongrel +curs are the only animals domesticated by these wild people. For +amusement sake, the boys take their dogs to a clear place and drive +them in all directions, then they capture the frightened animals by +running and throwing the lassos, which are made of human hair. They +have no difficulty in overtaking the dogs.</p> +<p>One day, a party of boys returning with their dogs after a bout +of this sport, passed near a bush in which there were three or four +blackbirds; on spying the birds, they dashed toward the bush and +tried to catch them with their hands; they did not succeed, though +one of the birds only escaped with the loss of several feathers. +Some women of the tribe were watching, and they actually jeered at +the boys for their failure. The boys were so mortified that they +did not go into camp, but went off and sat by themselves in the +shade of a greasewood bush. What white man or boy would think of +catching blackbirds in such a way? Yet non-success in an attempt of +that kind was the exception and not the rule. The Seris often take +birds in this fashion.</p> +<p>Señor Encinas was the pioneer in that region. He found +good grazing country in the territory claimed by the Seris, and so +established his stock farm there. He brought priests with him to +convert the savages, and caught a couple of the latter to educate +as interpreters. The plan for civilizing the Indians proved a +failure. They did not care to become Christians, and they killed +the Señor's stock. So, finally, the Señor decided to +adopt a new course of procedure. He summoned the Indians to a +council, as many of them as would come, and informed them that from +that time on he and his vaqueros would slay an Indian for every +head of cattle that was killed. At the same time he sent away the +priests and engaged an additional number of vaqueros.</p> +<p>The Indians paid no attention to the warning, and a few days +later they killed several head of cattle. Without delay the +Señor and his men coralled and killed a corresponding number +of the Seris. Then there was war. The savages made ambushes, but +they had only bows and arrows, and the vaqueros fought bravely with +their guns. Every ambush turned out disastrously for the Indians. +Finally, the Seris made a great ambush, and there was a battle +which resulted in the killing of sixty-five savages. The lesson +proved sufficient, and the Indians were glad to conclude a +permanent peace, agreeing that no further depredations against the +Señor or his property should be attempted. From beginning to +end the fighting lasted ten years.</p> +<p>After the killing of the two Americans, the Seris were very much +afraid of reprisals. For a good while they did not dare to come to +the ranch of Señor Encinas, but at length one old woman came +for the philosophical purpose of seeing if she would be killed. She +was well treated and went away. Eventually confidence was restored, +and about sixty of the savages were visiting on the premises.</p> +<p>No other people in North America have so few conceptions of +civilization as the Seris. They have absolutely no agriculture. As +well as can be ascertained they never put a seed into the ground or +cultivate a plant. They live almost wholly on fish, water fowl, and +such game as they kill on the main land. The game includes large +deer, like black tails, and exquisite species of dwarf deer, about +the size of a three months' fawn, pecarries, wild turkeys, prairie +dogs, rabbits and quail. They take very large green turtles in the +Gulf of California. Mesquite beans they eat both cooked and raw. +The mesquite is a small tree that bears seeds in pods.</p> +<p>The snake dance is another evidence of the comparative failure +of civilization to civilize. This is seen chiefly in the vicinity +of the Grand Cañon of the Colorado. Venomous rattlesnakes +are used in the dance, which is an annual affair. Hundreds of +snakes are caught for the occasion, and when the great day arrives +the devotees rush into the corral and each seizes a rattler for his +purpose. Reliable authorities, who have witnessed this dance, vouch +for the fact that the snakes are not in any way robbed of their +power to implant their poisonous fangs into the flesh of the +dancers. It even appears as though the greater the number of bites, +the more delighted are the participants, who hold the reptiles in +the most careless manner and allow them to strike where they will, +and to plant their horrible fangs into the most vulnerable parts +with impunity. When the dance is over, the snakes are taken back to +the woods and given their liberty, the superstition prevailing that +for the space of one year the reptiles will protect the tribe from +all ill or suffering.</p> +<p>The main interest attached to this dance is the secret of why it +is the dancers do not die promptly. No one doubts the power of the +rattlesnake to kill. Liberal potations of whisky are supposed by +some people to serve as an antidote, while Mexicans and some tribes +of Indians claim to have knowledge of a herb which will also +prolong the life of a man stung by a snake and apparently doomed to +an early death. Tradition tells us that for the purposes of this +dance, a special antidote has been handed down from year to year, +and from generation to generation, by the priests of the Moquis. It +is stated that one of the patriarchs of old had the secret imparted +to him under pledges and threats of inviolable secrecy. By him it +has been perpetuated with great care, being always known to three +persons, the high priest of the tribe, his vice-regent and +proclaimed successor, and the oldest woman among them. On the death +of any one of the three trustees of the secret, the number is made +up in the manner ordered by the rites of the tribal religion, and +to reveal the secret in any other way is to invite a sudden and an +awful death.</p> +<p>During the three days spent by the dancers in hunting snakes, it +is stated that the secret decoction is freely administered to them, +and that in consequence they handle the reptiles with perfect +confidence. When they are bitten there is a slight irritation but +nothing worse. On the other hand, there is often a heavy loss of +life during the year from snake bites, for the sacred antidote is +only used on the stated occasion for which it was, so the legend +runs, specially prepared or its nature revealed.</p> +<p>The people living within almost sight of the Grand Cañon +vary as much in habits and physique as does the scenery and general +contour of the cañon vary in appearance. The Cliff Dwellers +and the Pueblos do not as a rule impress the stranger with their +physical development, nor are they on the average exceptionally +tall or heavy. There are, however, small tribes in which physical +development has been, and still is, a great feature. Unlike the +Pueblos, these larger men wear little clothing, so that their +muscular development and the size of their limbs are more +conspicuous. Naturally skilled hunters, these powerful members of +the human race climb up and down the most dangerous precipices, and +lead an almost ideal life in the most inaccessible of spots.</p> +<p>The Maricopa Indians must be included among those whose general +appearance seems to invite admiration, however much one may regret +the absence of general civilization and education. These men are +for the most part honest, if not hard working, and they are by no +means unpleasant neighbors. Right near them are the homes of +smaller Indians, who have reduced peculation to a fine art, and who +steal on general principles. We have all heard of the little boy +who prefers to steal poor apples from his neighbor's tree to +picking up good ones in his father's orchard. Much the same idea +seems to prevail among these Indians. They will frequently spend +several hours and even the greater portion of a day, maneuvering to +secure some small article worth but a few cents to any one.</p> +<p>They have a way of ingratiating themselves with white tourists, +and offering to act as guides not only to spots of special beauty, +but also to mines of great value. When they succeed in convincing +strangers of their reliability, they are happy, and at once proceed +to exhibit the peculiar characteristics of their race. Pocket +handkerchiefs, stockings and hats are believed to be the articles +after which they seek with the most vigor. They are, however, not +particular as to what they secure, and anything that is left +unguarded for but a few hours, or even minutes, is certain to be +missed. The perquisites thus obtained or retained are regarded as +treasure trove. When first charged with having stolen anything, +they deny all knowledge of the offense, and protest their innocence +in an amusing manner. When, however, convincing proof is obtained, +and the missing article discovered, the convicted thief thinks the +matter a good joke, and laughs most heartily at the credulity and +carelessness of the white man.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c10" id="c10">CHAPTER X.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>OLD TIME COMMUNISTS.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Houses on Rocks and Sand Hills--How Many Families Dwelt Together +in Unity--Peculiarities of Costumes--Pueblo Architecture and Folk +Lore--A Historic Struggle and How it Ended--Legends Concerning +Montezuma--Curious Religious Ceremonies.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Perhaps the most peculiar people to be found in our native land +are the Pueblos, who live in New Mexico between the Grande and +Colorado Rivers. When Coronado, the great explorer, marched through +the territory 450 years ago, he found these people in a condition +of at least comparative civilization. They were living in large +houses, each capable of accommodating several families, and solidly +built. Although they had wandering bands of robbers for their +nearest neighbors, they were able to defend themselves against all +comers, and were content and prosperous. Their weapons, although +primitive, were quite scientific, and were handled with much skill +as well as bravery.</p> +<p>For two years they were able to withstand the Spanish invaders +in their "casas-grandes." It had been reported to the Spanish +commanders that several hundred miles in the north lay a great +empire named Cibola, which had seven large cities. In these were +long streets, on which only gold and silversmiths resided; imposing +palaces towered in the suburbs, with doors and columns of pure +turquoise; the windows were made of precious stones brilliantly +polished. At the sumptuous feasts of the prince of the land, +enchanting slaves served the most delicate dainties on golden +dishes. There were mountains of opal rising above valleys reveling +in jewels, with crystal streams, whose bottom consisted of pure +silver sand.</p> +<p>The disappointment of the Spaniards was great. A number of large +Indian villages were found, whose inhabitants subsisted upon the +fruits of a primitive agriculture. The frugality and thrift of the +Pueblos excited the interest of the voluptuous Spaniards. The +peculiar architecture of the villages and houses also drew their +admiration. Taken as a whole, the circles of houses resembled the +cells of a wasp's nest, of which the upper stories were reached on +a crude ladder. Entrance could be gained only through a small +opening in the roof, not even the sides facing the streets +containing doors. A few heavily grated windows served as port-holes +for their arrows. These peculiar constructions of baked clay are +still fashionable in such old towns as Suni, Taos and others.</p> +<p>Situated as the Moqui villages and Acoma were, on the top of an +inaccessible rock, the Spaniards despaired of conquering them. The +supposed Cibola not panning out according to expectation, they did +not seek reinforcement, and left the Pueblos in peace. Only near +the end of the Sixteenth Century the Pueblos had to submit to +Spanish rule, under which they remained until 1848, when the +territory embracing New Mexico and Arizona was ceded to the United +States.</p> +<p>In some respects the Spanish supremacy proved beneficial to the +Indians. They virtually maintained their independence. Many +innovations in their life and customs can be traced from this +period. The only domestic creatures in their villages were large +turkeys, whose feathers served as head ornaments for the warriors; +but horses, cows, sheep, goats, dogs and last, but not least, the +indispensable burros were added to their domestic stock.</p> +<p>The most important change in their communistic mode of living +dates from the annexation of New Mexico to the United States, and +the introduction of railroads. Their unfriendly neighbors, the +Apaches, Comanches, Kiowas and Navajos, were restricted to their +own reservations.</p> +<p>Feeling safe under the powerful protection of the Government, +these peaceable people have begun to relinquish their old mode of +communistic existence in their strange dwellings. Until recently, +there was a promiscuous living together of large families in the +numerous apartments of a single house, to which access could be +only obtained through a small aperture in the roof. More modern +cottages are being built for single families now; farming is also +carried on on a large scale, and in some parts grape and fruit +culture is attempted with good results.</p> +<p>All the villages are characterized by a certain industrial +monopoly. In one of them, for instance, the pottery for all the +Pueblos is manufactured; in others, like the Moqui villages, all +the people are employed in the making of finely woven goats' hair +blankets, in which occupation many are great experts. Although a +large number are engaged in the sale of blankets and Indian goods +in the southwestern part of the Union, in the gold diggings of +California, in Mormon settlements, in the small railroad stations +of Arizona, the average Pueblo Indian prefers a settled life. He is +domestic in his habits, and loves his family, his cattle, his farm +and his neighbors as dearly as does his pale-faced brothers. And +has he not good cause to rejoice and be contented with his lot? Has +he not a faithful and charming wife? There are some pretty girls of +perfect contour among the Pueblo Indians, especially in the Tigua +villages. Are not his gleeful children, who are enjoying a romp on +the huge sand hills, obedient and reverential in his presence? The +impudent spirit of young America has not yet exerted its baneful +influence here.</p> +<p>How scrupulously clean are the households! The good housewives +of the Netherlands do not excel the Pueblo squaws in cleanliness. +Floors are always carefully swept; all along the walls of the +spacious rooms seats and couches are covered with finely variegated +rugs; the walls are tastefully decorated with pictures and mirrors, +and the large cupboards are filled with luxurious fruits, meats, +pastry and jellies. Thousands of white bread-winners in the large +cities would envy these Indians if they could behold their +comparative affluence and their obviously contented state. Nor do +they obtain all this without fatiguing toil. The land is barren and +dry, which compels them to induce irrigation through long canals +from far away streams, and the men are never afraid of work.</p> +<p>The Pueblo pottery of to-day differs but little from that of the +Sixteenth Century. In the pottery villages the work is done mostly +by men, who sit on the broad, shaded platform and shape their +immense vessels in imitation of human beings and every imaginable +animal shape. The grotesquely shaped mouth is generally intended +for the opening, through which the water, soup or milk is +poured.</p> +<p>The squaws are assuming more and more the occupations of the +modern housewife, though they still grind their corn in the stone +troughs used hundreds of years ago, and they still bake their bread +in thin layers on hot, glowing stones. Dressmakers and tailors +still go a-begging among the Pueblo people, and no attention +whatever is paid to Parisian dictators of fashion. The good Pueblo +squaw cuts, fits, and sews all the clothing for the family, which +used to be composed mostly of leather. Her husband's wardrobe +consists now of a few multi-colored shirts, a pair or two of +leather pantaloons, with silver buttons, mocassins and a shoulder +blanket.</p> +<p>The head gear, if any be worn, as is often the case, is simply a +large colored handkerchief. Girls are usually dressed like the +daughters of Southern farmers, but they refuse to discard the +bloomers, over which the petticoats are worn a little below the +knees. These leather pantalettes are a necessity in a country where +poisonous snakes and insects abound in gardens and fields. To see a +Pueblo girl at her best, she must be surprised in animated gossip +in a bevy of girl friends, or when engaged in mirthful laughter +while at work. Then the expressive, deep black eyes sparkle and the +white teeth offer a glittering contrast to her fine black tresses, +eyes and eyebrows. The Pueblo Indians are to be congratulated on +one fact especially, that they permitted their moral improvement +through the agency of the black-frocked missionaries and school +teachers who came from the East, but also that they are one of the +few tribes who resisted the conscienceless rascals who would wreck +their homes through "fire water" and gambling devices.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0373.jpg" name="Belle" id="Belle"><img src= +"images/m0373t.jpg" alt="The Belle of the Pueblo" /></a> +<h4>The Belle of the Pueblo</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>A large number of ancient many-storied, many chambered communal +houses are scattered over New Mexico, three of the most important +of which are Isletta, Laguna and Acoma. Isletta and Laguna are +within a stone's throw of the railroad, ten miles and sixty-six +miles, respectively, beyond Albuquerque, and Acoma is reached from +either Laguna or Bubero by a drive of a dozen miles. The aboriginal +inhabitants of the pueblos, an intelligent, complex, industrious +and independent race, are anomalous among North American natives. +They are housed to-day in the self-same structures in which their +forefathers were discovered, and in three and a half centuries of +contact with Europeans their manner of life has not materially +changed.</p> +<p>The Indian tribes that roamed over mountain and plain have +become wards of the Government, debased and denuded of whatever +dignity they once possessed, ascribe what cause you will for their +present condition. But the Pueblo Indian has absolutely maintained +the integrity of his individuality, and is self-respecting and +self-sufficient. He accepted the form of religion professed by his +Spanish conquerors, but without abandoning his own, and that is +practically the only concession his persistent conservatism has +ever made to external influence.</p> +<p>Laborious efforts have been made to penetrate the reserve with +which the involved inner life of this strange child of the desert +is guarded, but it lies like a dark, vast continent behind a dimly +visible shore, and he dwells within the shadowy rim of a night that +yields no ray to tell of his origin. He is a true pagan, swathed in +seemingly dense clouds of superstition, rich in fanciful legend, +and profoundly ceremonious in religion. His gods are innumerable. +Not even the ancient Greeks possessed a more populous Olympus. On +that austere yet familiar height, gods of peace and of war, of the +chase, of bountiful harvest and of famine, of sun and rain and +snow, elbow a thousand others for standing room. The trail of the +serpent has crossed his history, too, and he frets his pottery with +an imitation of its scales, and gives the rattlesnake a prominent +place among his deities. Unmistakably a pagan, yet the purity and +well being of his communities will bear favorable comparison with +those of the enlightened world.</p> +<p>He is brave, honest and enterprising within the fixed limits of +his little sphere; his wife is virtuous, his children are docile. +And were the whole earth swept bare of every living thing, save for +a few leagues surrounding his tribal home, his life would show no +manner of disturbance. Probably he might never hear of so +unimportant an event. He would still alternately labor and relax in +festive games, still reverence his gods and rear his children to a +life of industry and content, so anomalous is he, so firmly +established in an absolute independence.</p> +<p>Pueblo architecture possesses none of the elaborate +ornamentation found in the Aztec ruins in Mexico. The exterior of +the house is absolutely plain. It is sometimes seven stories in +height and contains over a thousand rooms. In some instances it is +built of adobe--blocks of mud mixed with straw and dried in the +sun, and in others, of stone covered with mud cement. The entrance +is by means of a ladder, and when that is pulled up the +latch-string is considered withdrawn.</p> +<p>The pueblo of pueblos is Acoma, a city without a peer. It is +built upon the summit of a table-rock, with overhanging, eroded +sides, 350 feet above the plain, which is 7,000 feet above the sea. +Anciently, according to the traditions of the Queres, it stood upon +the crest of the superb Haunted Mesa, three miles away, and some +300 feet higher, but its only approach was one day destroyed by the +falling of a cliff, and three unhappy women, who chanced to be the +only occupants--the remainder of the population being at work in +the fields below--died of starvation, in view of the homeless +hundreds of their people who for many days surrounded the +unscalable mesa with upturned, agonized faces.</p> +<p>The present Acoma is the one discovered by the Spaniards; the +original pueblo on the Mesa Encantada being even then an ancient +tradition. It is 1,000 feet in length and 40 feet high, and there +is, besides, a church of enormous proportions. Until lately, it was +reached only by a precipitous stairway in the rock, up which the +inhabitants carried upon their backs every particle of the +materials of which the village is constructed. The graveyard +consumed forty years in building, by reason of the necessity of +bringing earth from the plain below; and the church must have cost +the labor of many generations, for its walls are 60 feet high and +10 feet thick, and it has timbers 40 feet long and 14 inches +square.</p> +<p>The Acomas welcomed the soldiers of Coronado with deference, +ascribing to them celestial origin. Subsequently, upon learning the +distinctly human character of the Spaniards, they professed +allegiance, but afterwards wantonly slew a dozen of Zaldibar's men. +By way of reprisal, Zaldibar headed three-score soldiers and +undertook to carry the sky-citadel by assault. The incident has no +parallel in American history, short of the memorable and similar +exploit of Cortez on the great Aztec pyramid.</p> +<p>After a three days' hand to hand struggle, the Spaniards stood +victors upon that seemingly impregnable fortress, and received the +submission of the Queres, who for three-quarters of a century +thereafter remained tractable. In that interval, the priests came +to Acoma and held footing for fifty years, until the bloody uprisal +of 1680 occurred, in which priest, soldier and settler were +massacred or driven from the land, and every vestige of their +occupation was extirpated. After the resubjection of the natives by +De Vargas, the present church was constructed, and the Pueblos have +not since rebelled against the contiguity of the white man.</p> +<p>All the numerous Mexican communities in the Territory contain +representatives of the Penitentes order, which is peculiar by +reason of the self-flagellations inflicted by its members in excess +of pietistic zeal. Unlike their ilk of India, they do not practice +self-torture for long periods, but only upon a certain day in each +year. Then, stripped to the waist, these poor zealots go chanting a +dolorous strain, and beating themselves unsparingly upon the back +with the sharp-spined cactus, or soap-weed, until they are a +revolting sight to look upon. Often they sink from the exhaustion +of long-sustained suffering and loss of blood. One of the +ceremonies among these peculiar people is the bearing of a huge +cross of heavy timber for long distances. Martyrs to conscience and +religious devotees frequently carry crosses of immense weight for +miles, and are watched eagerly by crowds of excited spectators. The +man who carries this fanatacism to the greatest length is the hero +of the day, and receives the appointment of Chief of the Ceremonies +for the following year.</p> +<p>Ceremonies such as these point to the extreme antiquity of the +people, and seem to indicate that they must have been descended +from tribes which were prominent in biblical narrative. According +to many able historians, people have resided in this part of the +world for at least twelve hundred years. In other words, when +Columbus and Americus Vespucius discovered and explored the new +world or portions of it, these peculiar people had been living on +the then mysterious continent for the greater part of a thousand +years.</p> +<p>According to some authorities these people are aboriginal. +According to others, they migrated from some distant clime. The +antiquity of China is well known, and there is good reason to +believe that the Moquis and Zunis have sprung from Chinese +voyagers, or perhaps pirates, who, hundreds of years ago, were +wrecked on the western shores of America. Another theory is, that +on the occasion of one of the numerous expulsions or emigrations +from China, a band of Mongolians turned northward and came into +America by crossing the Behring Strait.</p> +<p>Other antiquarians think that Morocco, rather than China, was +the original home of these races. The traveler is much struck with +the resemblance between the habits and customs of the Moors and of +some of the old established tribes of New Mexico. In dress and +architecture the Moorish idea certainly prevails very prominently. +The white toga and the picturesque red turban are prominent in +these resemblances. The jugs used for carrying water are distinctly +Moorish in type, and the women carry them on their heads in that +peculiar manner which is so characteristic of Moorish habits and +customs.</p> +<p>One of the very earliest records of these people has been left +us by Spanish explorers. A writer who accompanied one of the +earliest expeditions from Spain, says: "We found a great town +called Acoma, containing about 5,000 people, and situated upon a +rock about fifty paces high, with no other entrance but by a pair +of stairs hewn in the rock, whereat our people marveled not a +little. The chief men of this town came peaceably to visit us, +bringing many mantles and chamois skins, excellently dressed, and +great plenty of victuals. Their corn-fields were two leagues +distant, and they fetched water out of a small river to water the +same, on the brinks whereof there were great banks of roses like +those of Castile. There were many mountains full of metals. Our men +remained in the place three days, upon one of which the inhabitants +made before them a very solemn dance, coming forth in the same +gallant apparel, using very witty sports, wherewith our men were +exceedingly delighted."</p> +<p>Among the ruins found here, the early use of stone for +architectural purposes is clearly manifested, and there are +innumerable relics of ingenuity in periods upon which we are apt to +look with great contempt. Arrow-heads made of flint, quartz, agate +and jaspar, can easily be found by the relic hunter. Hatchets made +of stone, and sharpened in a most unique manner, are also common, +and the ancestors of the Pueblos undoubtedly used knives made of +stone hundreds of years ago.</p> +<p>One of the most interesting of the ancient houses is in the +Chaco Cañon. This edifice was probably at one time 300 feet +long, about half as wide and three stories high. From the nature of +the rooms, it is evident that the walls were built in terrace-form +out of sandstone. There were about 150 rooms, and judging from the +present habits of the people, at least 500 human beings lived in +this mammoth boarding-house. Another very interesting structure of +a similar character is found on the Upper Grande River, about two +hours' drive from Santa Fe. It was about 300 feet square +originally, and most of the foundations are still in fairly good +condition, though much of the exposed portion of the stone has +yielded by degrees to the friction caused by continual sandstorms. +It is believed that more than 1,000 people lived in this one +house.</p> +<p>Of recent years a good deal has been written concerning the +possibilities of the future in regard to saving expense by large +numbers of families occupying one house. Most of these ideas have +been ridiculed, because experience has proved that families seldom +reside comfortably in crowded quarters. The tribes of which we are +writing, while they destroy the originality of the communistic +ideas of the Nineteenth Century, also disprove the arguments which +are principally brought against them. In these singular houses or +colonies, several families live together in perfect harmony. There +are no instances on record of disputes such as are met with in +boarding-houses patronized by white people, and in this one +respect, at any rate, quite a lesson is taught us by the Pueblo +tribes. The people are quiet and peaceable in disposition, and one +secret of their peaceful dwelling together is found in the absence +of jealousy, a characteristic or vice which does not seem to have +penetrated into the houses on the cliffs, or to have sullied the +dispositions of these people with such a remarkable and creditable +history. It requires a good deal of dexterity and agility to enter +or leave a communal house of this character, and a door, from what +we are apt to term a civilized point of view, is unknown.</p> +<p>The visitor is told a number of legends and stories about these +houses and the people who live in them. The coming of Montezuma is +the great idea which permeates all the legends and stories. +According to many of the people, Montezuma left Mexico, during the +remote ages, in a canoe built of serpent-skins. His object was to +civilize the East and to do away with human sacrifice. He +communicated with the people by means of cords in which knots were +tied in the most ingenious manner. The knots conveyed the meaning +of the Prophet, and his peculiar messages were carried from pueblo +to pueblo by swift messengers, who took great delight in executing +their tasks.</p> +<p>A number of exceedingly romantic legends are centered around the +Pueblo de Taos, which is about twenty miles from Embudo. Taos is +considered the most interesting and the most perfect specimen of a +Pueblo Indian fortress. It consists of two communistic houses, each +five stories high, and a Roman Catholic church (now in a ruined +condition) which stands near, although apart from the dwellings. +Around the fortress are seven circular mounds, which at first +suggest the idea of being the work of mound-builders. On further +examination they prove to be the sweating chambers or Turkish baths +of this curious people. Of these chambers, the largest appears also +to serve the purpose of a council chamber and mystic hall, where +rites peculiar to the tribe (about which they are very reticent) +are performed.</p> +<p>The Pueblo Indians delight to adorn themselves in gay colors, +and form very interesting and picturesque subjects for the artist, +especially when associated with their quaint surroundings. They are +skilled in the manufacture of pottery, basket-making and bead work. +The grand annual festival of these Indians occurs on the 30th of +September, and the ceremonies are of a peculiarly interesting +character.</p> +<p>Jesuitism has grafted its faith upon the superstitions of the +Montezumas, and a curious fruitage is the result. The mystic rites +of the Pueblo Indians, performed at Pueblo de Taos in honor of San +Geronimo (St. Jerome), upon each succeeding 30th day of September, +attract large concourses of people, and are of great interest to +either the ethnologist, ecclesiastic or tourist. A brief +description can give but a faint idea of these ceremonies, but may +serve to arouse an interest in the matter. In the early morning of +St. Jerome's day, a black-robed Indian makes a recitation from the +top of the pueblo to the assembled multitude below. In the plaza +stands a pine tree pole, fifty feet in height, and from a +cross-piece at top dangles a live sheep, with legs tied together +and back down. Besides the sheep, a garland of such fruits and +vegetables as the valley produces, together with a basket of bread +and grain, hang from the pole. The bell in the little adobe chapel +sounds and a few of the Indians go in to mass.</p> +<p>A curious service follows. A rubicund Mexican priest is the +celebrant, while two old Mexicans in modern dress, and a Pueblo +Indian in a red blanket, are acolytes. When the host is elevated, +an Indian at the door beats a villainous drum and four musket shots +are discharged. After the services are concluded, a procession is +formed and marches to the race track, which is three hundred yards +in length. The runners have prepared themselves in the estufas, or +underground council chambers, and soon appear. There are fifty of +them, and all are naked except a breech-clout, and are painted no +two alike. Fifty other runners to contest with these, arrive from +the other pueblo. They form in line on either side of the course, +and a slow, graceful dance ensues. All at once three hundred mad +young Mexicans rush through the throng on their wild ponies, the +leader swinging by the neck the gallo or cock. Then the races +begin, two runners from each side darting down the track cheered by +their companions. No sooner do they reach the goal than two others +start off, and thus for two hours, until the sum of victories +gained by individuals entitles one party or the other to claim +success. The race decided, the runners range themselves in two +facing lines, and, preceded by the drum, begin a slow zig-zag +march.</p> +<p>Excitement now runs riot. The dancers chant weird songs, break +the ranks and vie with each other in their antics and +peculiarities. A rush is made upon the crowd of spectators through +whom the participants in the orgies force their way, regardless of +consequences. The women, who hitherto have taken but little part in +the excitement, now come forward and throw cakes and rolls of bread +from the pueblo terraces. Everybody rushes after these prizes in a +headlong manner, and the confusion becomes still greater.</p> +<p>An adjournment is then taken for dinner, and in the afternoon, +six gorgeously painted and hideously decorated clowns come forward +and go through a series of antics calculated to disgust rather than +amuse the spectator. The unfortunate sheep, which is still hanging +to the pole, is finally thrown to the ground after several attempts +have been made to climb the pole. The fruits and products are +seized by the clowns, who rush off with them, and every one +connected with the tribe seem to be highly satisfied with the +outcome of the day's proceedings, and the culmination of the +spectacle.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c11" id="c11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>HOW CUSTER LIVED AND DIED.</h4> +<br /> +<p>"Remember Custer"--An Eye Witness of the Massacre--Custer, Cody +and Alexis--A Ride over the Scenes of the Unequal Conflict--Major +Reno's Marked Failure--How "Sitting Bull" Ran Away and Lived to +Fight Another Day--Why a Medicine Man did not Summon Rain.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>"Remember Custer" was the watchword and battle-cry of the small +army of American soldiers who early in the present decade advanced +against hostile Indians in the Northwest, who after indulging for +weeks in a series of fantastic dances and superstitious rites, were +finally called to time by the Government and punished for their +disregard of treaty rights and reasonable orders. Every American +child should know who Custer was and why the troopers called upon +each other to remember him on the occasion referred to. It is less +than twenty years since he died. His name should be remembered by +civilians as well as soldiers for almost as many centuries to +come.</p> +<p>There are some men who seem to defy and even court death. Custer +was one of these. He was so recklessly brave that he often caused +anxiety to his superior officers. Time and again he led a handful +of men apparently into the jaws of death and brought them out +safely, after having practically annihilated the foe. As the +pitcher which is carried safely to the well ninety-nine times +sometimes gets broken at the hundredth attempt, so was it with +General Custer. In June, 1876, his detachment was outnumbered +twenty to one at a little ford near Crazy Horse Creek, in Dakota, +and his entire command was wiped out. An adopted son of "Sitting +Bull," the famous Indian, states that he saw Custer die, adding +that he twice witnessed the hero lying on his back fighting his +foes. The third time he saw him a blanket was drawn over the hero, +who was apparently dead.</p> +<p>On another page is given an admirable illustration of the camp +and ford, as well as of the monument erected in Custer's memory, +with typical Indian camp scene. This picture is from photographs +taken specially for Mr. Charles S. Fee, General Passenger Agent of +the Northern Pacific Railroad, whose tracks run close by this scene +of such sad history.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0374.jpg" name="Custer" id="Custer"><img src= +"images/m0374t.jpg" alt="Custer Battlefield and Monument" /></a> +<h4>Custer Battlefield and Monument</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>A volume could be devoted to the life of Custer, the adventures +he encountered, and the risks he ran in the course of his eventful +and useful career. His works and his memoirs bristle with +information concerning the actual truths of border life and Indian +warfare, bereft of romance and exaggeration. Like almost all Indian +fighters, Custer entertained a supreme contempt for the red man +generally, although his naturally kind disposition led him to give +credit to individual red men for bravery, gratitude, and other +characteristics generally believed to be inconsistent with their +character and nationality.</p> +<p>Besides being a gallant fighter, Custer was also a great lover +of recreation and fun, while a genuine hunting expedition drew him +out from his almost habitual quiet and made him the natural leader +of the party. Among his friends was William Cody, better known to +the amusement loving world as Buffalo Bill, on account of his +alleged excessive prowess in the shooting and destruction of +buffalo. If Mr. Cody were consulted, he would probably prefer to be +called Indian Bill, as his hatred of the average red man was very +largely in excess of his anxiety to kill the hump-backed oxen, +which were, at one time, almost in sole possession of the Western +prairies. On one occasion, he and Custer had a very delightful time +together, and Cody has given a pleasing description of what took +place.</p> +<p>This was on the occasion of the visit to this country of the +Grand Duke Alexis. Some twenty-three years ago this European +celebrity enjoyed a tour through the United States, and visited +most of the grandest features of our native land. Before coming to +the country, he had heard of its great hunting facilities, and also +of the sport to be obtained from shooting buffalo on the prairie. +He mentioned this fact to the officers of the Government, who were +detailed to complete arrangements for his benefit, and, +accordingly, it was arranged that the Grand Duke should be +conducted into buffalo land, and initiated into the mysteries of +buffalo hunting, by the officer who has since been annihilated by +the Sioux, and the irrepressible hunter who has since developed +into a prince among showmen.</p> +<p>These two somewhat rough, but very kind, chaperones, took with +them on this trip a party of Indians, including "Spotted Tail," +with whose daughter Custer carried on, we are told, a mild +flirtation on the march. A great deal of amusement was derived from +the trip, as well as very much important information.</p> +<p>It was but four years later that Custer was engaged on a more +serious and less entertaining mission. The scene of the tragedy was +visited some three years ago by Mr. L. D. Wheeler, to whom we are +indebted for the following very graphic and interesting description +of the visit and of the thoughts it called forth:</p> +<p>"A rather lengthy ride found us at Reno's crossing of the river, +the ford where he crossed to make his attack. Fording the stream, +we dismounted among the young timber and bushes lining the stream, +and ate lunch. Before lunch was finished, two Indian girls came +down the river. The younger, tall, slender and graceful, dressed in +bright, clean scarlet, was a picture. With her jet black hair +hanging in shining plaits, her piercing eyes and handsome face, she +was the most comely, sylph-like Indian maiden I have ever seen.</p> +<p>"Mounting our horses, lunch over, we cantered back on the trail +that Custer and Reno followed, for a ride of several miles to +Lookout Hill, or Point, which we ascended. This was the point where +Custer and his officers obtained their first view of the valley of +the Greasy Grass, as the Sioux call the Little Horn.</p> +<p>"After a survey of the region, spurring our horses forward, we +in time found ourselves climbing the gentle acclivities which led +up to Reno's old rifle-pits, now almost obliterated. The most +noticeable feature of the spot is the number of blanched bones of +horses which lie scattered about. A short distance from the +pits--which are rather rounded, and follow the outline of the hills +in shape--and in a slight hollow below them, are more bones of +horses. This is where the wounded were taken, and the hospital +established, and the horses kept. From the wavy summit line of the +bluffs, the ground slopes in an irregular broken way back to the +northeast and east, into a coulee that forms the passage to the +ford which Custer aimed for and never reached. The ground about the +battle-field is now a national cemetery. It is enclosed by a wire +fence, and there are several hundred acres of it. It might be cared +for in a manner somewhat better than it is. During one of my visits +there, a Crow Indian rode up to the gate and deliberately turned +his herd of horses into the inclosure to graze.</p> +<p>"As I rode into the grounds, after fording and recrossing the +river where Custer failed, the first object to greet my sight was a +small inclosure, with large mound and headstone, which marked the +spot where Lieutenant Crittenden fell. At one corner, and outside +of it, stood the regulation marble slab which marks the place where +each body on the field was found. This one stated that there +Lieutenant Calhoun was killed. At numbers of places down the +western slope, but near the ravines, the surface is dotted with the +little gravestones. In some places, far down the descent, and far +from where Custer, Van Reilly, Tom Custer and others fell, they are +seen singly; in other spots three or four, or half a dozen. At one +point there are over thirty, well massed together. Down in this +part of the field, in the ravine running towards the monument, is +the stone marking where Dr. Lord's body was found, and with it are +four others.</p> +<p>"In the shallow coulee east of the ridge, and almost at the +bottom of the slope, some distance northwest of where Calhoun and +Crittenden were killed, and on the main ridge slope of it, is a +large group of stones. Here is where Captain Miles Keogh and +thirty-eight men gave up their lives. On this side of the +ridge--the eastern side--between where Keogh and his men died and +where Custer fell, there are numerous stones. On the opposite side +of the Custer ridge--that which faces the river--and close to its +crest, there are very few stones, and those are much scattered, and +not in groups. At the northern extremity of the ridge is a slight +elevation which overtops everything else, and slopes away in all +directions, save where the ridge lies. Just below this knoll, or +hillock--Custer Hill--facing southwest, is where Custer and the +larger part of his men fell."</p> +<p>On the right bank of the Missouri River--the Big Muddy--in North +Dakota, almost within rifle shot of the town of Mandan, on the +Northern Pacific Railroad, there existed in the '70s a military +post named after the nation's great martyr President, Fort Abraham +Lincoln. On the morning of the 17th of June, 1876, there went forth +from here among others, with the pomp and ceremony for which they +were distinguished, a cavalry regiment famed in the army for dash, +bravery and endurance--the noted Seventh Cavalry.</p> +<p>At the head of the Seventh Cavalry was a man who was +unquestionably the most picturesque character for long years, and +perhaps for all previous and present time, in the army. Entering +the army in active service during the Civil War, his career was a +continual round of successes and advances, and at its close, aside +from the peerless Sheridan, no cavalryman had a greater reputation +for magnificent dash than he. Transferred to the plains--the war +over--his success as an Indian campaigner naturally followed, and +at the time he moved out upon his latest and fated expedition, +George Custer had a reputation as an Indian fighter second to +none.</p> +<p>On June 22d, Custer and the Seventh Cavalry left camp on the +Rosebud in compliance with their instructions. On the 23d and 24th, +many of the camping places of the Indians, in their migration +westward, were passed. By evening of June 24th, the trail and signs +had become so hot and fresh that a halt was ordered to await +tidings from the scouts. Their information proved that the Indians +were across the divide, over in the valley of the Little Horn. +Custer, confident of his ability to whip the Indians single-handed, +prepared for fight at once. He pushed ahead on the trail, and +created the impression that it was his determination to get to the +spot, and have one battle royal with the Indians, in which he and +the Seventh should be the sole participants on our side, and in +consequence the sole heroes. The idea of defeat seems never to have +occurred to him.</p> +<p>Early on the morning of June 25th, Custer resumed his march. Up +to that time the command was maneuvered as a whole. Now, however, +it was divided into four detachments. One under Major Reno, +consisting of three troops of cavalry and the Indian scouts, forty +in number, held the advance; the second battalion, composed also of +three troops, moved off some miles to the left of Reno, scouting +the country to the southward; a third detachment, comprising the +pack train which carried the reserve ammunition--some 24,000 +rounds--was under the command of Captain McDougall, and had one +troop as an escort; the fourth battalion was that under Custer +himself, and was the largest, having five troops, and it marched +parallel to Reno and within easy supporting distance to the north, +the pack train following the trail in rear of Reno and Custer.</p> +<p>Reno advanced from the ford across the valley in column of fours +for some distance, then formed in line of battle, and afterwards +deployed the command as skirmishers. The bulk of the Indians and +their camp were hidden by a bend of the river, and Reno, instead of +charging round the bend and into the Indian camp, halted and +dismounted his command to fight on foot. At this point two or three +of the horses could not be controlled, and carried their riders +into the Indian camp; one account stating that they plunged over +the river bank, injuring the men, who were afterwards killed by the +Indians. Here at Ash Point, or Hollow, the command soon got +sheltered in the timber, and were on the defensive; the Indians now +pouring in from all sides. The Indian scouts with Reno had before +now been dispersed, and were making back tracks fast as their +ponies could carry them. Accounts differ as to how long they +remained in this timber, but it was probably not to exceed half an +hour. The "charge" out--as Reno termed it--was virtually a +stampede, and many did not know of the departure until too late to +start, no well-defined and well-understood order having been given +to that effect. There was no systematic attempt to check the +pursuit of the Indians, who now, directed by "Gall," swarmed down +upon them and prevented them from reaching the ford at which they +had crossed. Many were killed on this retreat, and many others +wounded, among the former being Lieutenant Donald McIntosh. Reno +headed the retreat, and they tore pell mell across the valley, and +at the new ford they were lucky to strike, there was great +confusion, it being every man for himself, and the devil take the +hindmost; and, as is usually the case, the (red) devil got his +clutches on more than one. Crossing the stream as best they could, +Lieutenant Hodgson being killed after having crossed, men and +horses climbed the steep, almost inaccessible bluffs and ravines, +upon the top of which they had a chance to "take account of stock." +Many had attempted to scale the bluffs at other points hard by. The +Indians were up there in some force, and by them, when almost up +the cliffs, Dr. DeWolf was killed.</p> +<p>After remaining on the bluffs at least an hour, probably longer, +a forward movement down stream was made for a mile or mile and a +half. Previous to this, heavy firing had been heard down the river +in the direction Custer had gone. Two distinct volleys were heard +by the entire command, followed by scattering shots, and it was +supposed Custer was carrying all before him. When Reno had reached +the limit of this advance north toward Custer, they saw large +numbers of Indian horsemen scurrying over what afterward proved to +be Custer's battle-field. Soon these came tearing up toward Reno, +who hastily retreated from what would seem to have been a strong +position, back to near the point where he had originally reached +the bluffs. Here they sheltered themselves on the small hills by +the shallow breastworks, and placed the wounded and horses in a +depression. That night, until between 9 and 10 o'clock, they were +subjected to a heavy fire from the Indians, who entirely surrounded +them. The firing again began at daylight of the 26th, and lasted +all day, and as the Indians had command of some high points near +by, there were many casualties. Reno's total loss, as given by +Godfrey, was fifty killed, including three officers, and fifty-nine +wounded. Many of those left in the river bottom when the retreat +began, eventually reached the command again, escaping under cover +of night.</p> +<p>Of Custer's movements, opinions of what he did or should have +done, are many and various. The theory first entertained and held +for years, but not now tenable nor, indeed, probably held by many, +was that Custer reached the ford and attempted to cross; was met by +a fire so scorching that he drew back and retreated to the hill in +the best form possible, and there fought like an animal at bay, +hoping that Reno's attack in the bottom and Benton's timely arrival +would yet relieve him. The Indians, however, strenuously assert +that Custer never attempted the ford, and never got anywhere near +it. No dead bodies were found any nearer than within half a mile of +the ford, and it seems undoubted that the Indians tell the +truth.</p> +<p>When Custer rode out on the bluff and looked over into the +valley of the Greasy Grass, he must have seen at once that he had +before utterly misapprehended the situation. The natural thing to +do would have been to retrace his trail, join Reno by the shortest +route, and then, united, have pushed the attack in person or, if +then too late for successful attack, he could, in all likelihood, +have extricated the command and made junction with Terry. Indian +signals travel rapidly, and as soon as Reno was checked and beaten, +not only was this fact signaled through the camp, but every warrior +tore away down stream to oppose Custer, joining those already +there, and now, at least, alert.</p> +<p>It is probable, then, that before Custer could reach the creek +valley the Indians had made sufficient demonstrations to cause him +to swerve from where he would otherwise, and naturally, strike it, +and work farther back toward the second line of bluffs, even +perhaps as far back as Captain Godfrey gives the trail. The only +thing to militate against this would be the element of time, which +seems hardly to oppose it. However he got there, Custer is at last +upon the eminence which is so soon to be consecreted with his +life's blood. What saw he? What did he? The sources of information +are necessarily largely Indian. At the southeastern end of the +Custer ridge, facing, apparently, the draw, or coulee, of the +branch of Custer Creek, Calhoun and Crittenden were placed. Some +little distance back of them, in a depression, and down the +northern slope of the Custer Ridge, Keogh stood. Stretched along +the north slope of the ridge, from Keogh to Custer Hill, was +Smith's command, and at the culminating point of the ridge, or +Custer Hill, but on the opposite ridge from where the others were +placed, were Tom Custer and Yates, and with them Custer himself. +Yates' and Custer's men evidently faced northwest. It would appear +from the Indians' statements that most of the command were +dismounted.</p> +<p>The line was about three-quarters of a mile in length, and the +attack was made by two strong bodies of Indians. One of these came +up from the ford named after the hero and victim of the day. It was +led by a daring Indian, with some knowledge of generalship, and his +followers were of a very superior class to the average red man. +This body of attackers did great execution and succeeded in almost +annihilating the white men against whom they were placed, and whom +they outnumbered so conspicuously. From the meagre information +concerning what took place that is accessible, it appears as though +the execution of these men was almost equal to that of skilled +sharp-shooters. A reckless Indian named "Crazy Horse" was at the +head of a number of Cheyennes who formed the principal part of the +second attacking body. These encountered Custer himself, and the +men immediately under his orders. Outnumbering the white men to an +overwhelming extent, they circled around, and being reinforced by +the first column, which by this time was elated by victory and +reckless as to its brutality, it commenced the work of blotting out +of existence the gallant cavalrymen before them.</p> +<p>Most of Custer's men knew the nature of their destroyers too +well to think of crying for quarter or making any effort to escape. +There was a blank space between the ridge on which the battle was +fought and the river below. Some few men ran down this spot in +hopes of fording the river and finding temporary hiding places; +they prolonged their lives but for a few minutes only, for some of +the fleetest Indians rushed after them and killed them as they ran. +The horse upon which Captain Keogh rode into the battle escaped the +general slaughter, and found its way back once more to +civilization. Of the way it spent its declining years we have +already spoken.</p> +<p>With this exception, it is more than probable that no living +creature which entered the fight with Custer came out of it alive. +A Crow scout named "Curley," claims that he was in the fight, and +that after it was over he disguised himself as a Sioux, held his +blanket around his head and escaped. "Curley's" statement was never +received with much credence. The evidence generally points to the +fact that, prior to the battle, nearly all the Indian scouts who +were with Custer on the march ran away when they saw the +overpowering nature of the foe. "Sitting Bull," who has since met +the fate many believe he deserved, also claimed to be in the fight +on the other side. His story of the prowess of Custer, and of his +death, was probably concocted with a view to currying favor with +white men, as it appears evident that "Sitting Bull" showed his +usual cowardice, and ran away before there was a battle within +twenty-four hours' distance.</p> +<p>Major James McLaughlin, during his experience as Indian Agent at +Standing Rock Agency, North Dakota, had an opportunity of gathering +a great deal of important information with reference to the +battle-field and incidents connected with it. At the request of Mr. +Wheeler, whose researches into the legends and history of +interesting spots within easy access by means of the Northern +Pacific Railroad were most successful, obtained from the Major the +following valuable information concerning many points of detail +which have been the subject of debate and dispute:</p> +<p>"It is difficult," says this undoubted authority, "to arrive at +even approximately the number of Indians who were encamped in the +valley of the Little Big Horn when Custer's command reached there +on June 25th, 1876; the indifference of the Indians as to +ascertaining their strength by actual count, and their ideas at +that time being too crude to know themselves. I have been stationed +at this Agency since the surrendered hostiles were brought here in +the summer of 1881, and have conversed frequently with many of the +Indians who were engaged in that fight, and more particularly with +'Gall,' 'Crow King,' 'Big Road,' 'Hump,' 'Sitting Bull,' 'Gray +Eagle,' 'Spotted Horn Bull,' and other prominent men of the Sioux, +regarding the Custer affair. When questioned as to the number of +Indians engaged, the answer has invariably been, 'None of us knew; +nina wicoti,' which means 'very many lodges.' From this source of +information, which is the best obtainable, I place the number of +male adults then in the camp at 3,000; and that on June 25th, 1876, +the fighting strength of the Indians was between 2,500 and 3,000, +and more probably approximating the latter number.</p> +<p>"'Sitting Bull' was a recognized medicine man, and of great +repute among the Sioux, not so much for his powers of healing and +curing the sick--which, after he had regained such renown, was +beneath his dignity--as for his prophecies; and no matter how +absurd his prophecies might be, he found ready believers and +willing followers, and when his prophecies failed to come to pass, +he always succeeded in satisfying his over-credulous followers by +giving some absurd reason. For instance, I was in his camp on +Grande River in the spring of 1888, sometime about the end of June. +There had been no rain for some weeks, and crops were suffering +from drouth, and I remarked to him, who was in an assemblage of a +large number of Indians of that district, that the crops needed +rain badly, and that if much longer without rain the crops would +amount to nothing. He, 'Sitting Bull,' replied: 'Yes, the crops +need rain, and my people have been importuning me to have it rain. +I am considering the matter as to whether I will or not. I can make +it rain any time I wish, but I fear hail. I cannot control hail, +and should I make it rain, heavy hail might follow, which would +ruin the prairie grass as well as the crops, and our horses and our +cattle would thus be deprived of subsistence.' He made this +statement with as much apparent candor as it was possible for a man +to give expression to, and there was not an Indian among his +hearers but appeared to accept it as within his power.</p> +<p>"'Sitting Bull' was dull in intellect, and not near as able a +man as 'Gall,' 'Hump,' 'Crow,' and many others who were regarded as +subordinate to him; but he was an adept schemer and very cunning, +and could work upon the credulity of the Indians to a wonderful +degree, and this, together with great obstinacy and tenacity, +gained for him his world-wide reputation. 'Sitting Bull' claimed in +his statement to me that he directed and led in the Custer fight; +but all the other Indians with whom I have talked contradict it, +and said that 'Sitting Bull' fled with his family as soon as the +village was attacked by Major Reno's command, and that he was +making his way to a place of safety, several miles out in the +hills, when overtaken by some of his friends with news of victory +over the soldiers, whereupon he returned, and in his usual style, +took all the credit of victory to himself as having planned for the +outcome, and as having been on a bluff overlooking the battlefield, +appeasing the evil spirits and invoking the Great Spirit for the +result of the fight.</p> +<p>"And, when considering the ignorance and inherent superstition +of the average Sioux Indian at that time, it is not to be wondered +at that the majority, if not all, were willing to accept it, +especially when united in common cause and what they considered as +their only safety from annihilation. As a matter of fact, there was +no one man who led or directed that fight; it was a pell mell rush +under a number of recognized warriors as leaders, with 'Gall' of +the Hunkpapas and 'Crazy Horse' of the Cheyennes the more +prominent.</p> +<p>"The Indians with whom I have talked deny having mutilated any +of the killed, but admit that many dead bodies were mutilated by +women of the camp. They also claim that the fight with Custer was +of short duration. They have no knowledge as to hours and minutes, +but have explained by the distance that could be walked while the +fight lasted. They vary from twenty minutes to three-quarters of an +hour, none placing it longer than forty-five minutes. This does not +include the fight with Reno before his retreat, but from the time +that Custer's command advanced and the fight with his command +commenced. The opinion of the Indians regarding Reno's first attack +and short stand is, that it was his retreat that gave them the +victory over Custer's command. The helter skelter retreat of Reno's +men enthused the Indians to such an extent that, flushed with +excitement and this early success, they were reckless in their +charge upon Custer's command, and with the slight number of Indians +thus fully enthused, that small command was but a slight check to +their sweeping impetuosity. The Indians also state that the +separated detachments made their victory over the troops more +certain."</p> +<p>Thus Custer fell. The mystery surrounding his death will +probably never be solved in a satisfactory manner, owing to the +impossibility of placing any reliance on statements made by the +Indians. The way in which the command was annihilated and the +soldiers' bodies mutilated, should go a long way towards disproving +many of the theories now in existence concerning the alleged ill +treatment of Indians, and their natural peacefulness and good +disposition. Custer had so frequently befriended the very men who +surrounded his command and annihilated it, that the baseness of +their ingratitude should be apparent even to those who are inclined +to sympathize with the red men, and to denounce the alleged +severity with which they have been treated. Travelers through the +Dakota region find few spots of more melancholy, though marked, +interest than the one illustrated in connection with this +chapter.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c12" id="c12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>AMONG THE CREOLES.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Meaning of the Word "Creole"--An Old Aristocratic Relic--The +Venice of America--Origin of the Creole Carnivals--Rex and His +Annual Disguises--Creole Balls--The St. Louis Veiled Prophets--The +French Market and Other Landmarks in New Orleans--A Beautiful +Ceremony and an Unfinished Monument.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>New Orleans is known throughout the world for the splendor of +its carnivals. As one of the great Creole cities of the world, it +has for more than half a century made merry once a year, and given +quite a business aspect to carnival festivities. The Creole is one +of the interesting characters to be met with in a tour through the +United States. As a rule, he or she is joyous in the extreme, and +believes most heartily in the wisdom of the command to "laugh and +grow fat." The genuine Creole scarcely knows what it is to be sad +for more than a few hours at a time, a very little pleasure more +than offsetting a very great deal of trouble and suffering. A +desire to move around and to enjoy changes of scene is a special +feature of the Creole, and hence the spectacular effects of the +carnival procession appeal most eloquently to him.</p> +<p>Many Eastern and Northern people confound the term "Creole" and +"Mulatto," believing that the former name is given to the offspring +of mixed marriages, which take place in spite of the vigilance of +the laws of most of the Southern States. This is entirely a +mistake, for the genuine Creole, instead of being an object of +contempt and pity, is rather an aristocrat and of a higher caste +than the average white man. Strictly speaking, the term implies +birth in this country, but foreign parentage or ancestry. It was +originally applied to the children of French and Spanish settlers +in Louisiana, and in that application applied only to quite a +handful of people. As time has worn on, and French emigration has +ceased, and the Spaniard has been gradually pushed south, the +number of actual Creoles has of course diminished rapidly. The +name, however, by common consent, has been perpetuated and is +retained by descendants in the third and fourth generations of +original Creoles. Some of the Creoles of to-day are very wealthy, +and many of the others are comparatively poor, changes in modes and +conditions of life having affected them very much. Although the +very name Creole suggests Spanish origin, there is more French +blood among the Creoles of to-day than that of any other nation. +The vivacious habits and general love of change so common among +French people, continue in their descendants. The old plan of +sending the children over to France to be educated has been largely +abandoned in these later days, but the influences of Parisian life +still have their effect on the race.</p> +<p>This is largely the reason why it is that New Orleans has been +often spoken of as the American Venice. To that beautiful European +city, with its gondolas and picturesque costumes, belongs the honor +of having originated high-class comedy. To New Orleans must be +given the credit of planting, or at any rate perpetuating, the idea +in a tangible shape in this country, and of having, for fully two +generations, kept up the annual celebration almost without a break. +Masquerading came across the Atlantic from Venice by way of France, +where the idea took strong hold. When emigration from France to the +old Territory of Louisiana became general, the idea came with it, +and the practice of sending children to Paris to be educated +resulted in the latest ideas of aristocratic festivities being +brought over to the home which has since sheltered them.</p> +<p>History tells us that on New Year's Eve of 1831, a number of +pleasure-seeking men spent the entire night in a Creole restaurant +at Mobile arranging for the first mystic order in that city, and +from this beginning the long line of Creole comedies sprang up. In +1857, the Mystic Krewe of Comus made its first appearance upon the +streets of New Orleans. "Paradise Lost" was the subject selected +for illustration. Year after year the revelry was repeated on +Shrove Tuesday, but the outbreak of the war naturally put a stop to +the annual rejoicing. Southern enthusiasm is, however, hard to +down, and directly the war was over, Comus reappeared in all his +glory. A few years later the Knights of Momus were created, and in +1876 the Krewe of Proteus had its first carnival. Many other orders +have followed, but these are the more magnificent and +important.</p> +<p>It is difficult to convey an adequate idea of the feeling which +prevails in regard to these comedies. The mystery which surrounds +the orders is extraordinary, and the secret has been well kept, a +fact which cynics attribute to the exclusion of ladies from the +secret circle. It is well known that on many occasions men have +pretended to leave the city on the eve of the comedy, and to have +returned to their homes a day or two later, not even their own +families knowing that they took a leading part in the procession. +The Carnival Kings issue royal edicts prior to their arrival, +commanding all business to cease on the occasion of the rejoicings. +The command is obeyed literally. Banks, courts of justice and +business houses generally suspend operations, and old and young +alike turn out to do homage to the monarch of the day.</p> +<p>Let us imagine for a moment we are privileged to see a Creole +carnival. Every inch of available space has been taken up. Every +balcony overlooking the royal route is crowded with pleasure +parties, including richly dressed ladies, all the flower and beauty +of the Sunny South being represented. The course is illuminated in +the most attractive manner, and every one is waiting anxiously for +the procession. Bands of music, playing sprightly tunes, finally +reward the patience of the watchers. Then come heralds, bodyguards +and marshals, all gorgeously arrayed for the occasion. Their +horses, like themselves, are richly adorned for the occasion, and +the banners and flags are conspicuous for the artistic blending of +colors.</p> +<p>Then riding in state comes the Lord High Chamberlain, bearing +the golden key of the city, delivered over to him in state +twenty-four hours previously by the Mayor. Next comes the hero of +the parade, the King himself. All eyes are riveted upon him. +Thoroughly disguised himself, he is able to recognize on the +balconies and among the crowds his personal friends and most +devoted admirers. To these he bows with great solemnity. Mystified +to a degree, and often disputing among themselves as to the +probable identity of the monarch, the richly dressed young ladies +and their cavaliers bow in return, and look as though they would +fain hold the monarch among them much longer than the necessity of +keeping order makes it possible. Following the King are the +bodyguards and crowds of holiday makers.</p> +<p>Rex generally makes a display now of some special theme, +appearing this year as a crusader, another year as the discoverer +of America, and a third year as some other mystic individual. But +no matter what the subject of the carnival may be, the underlying +principle is the same. Sometimes a great deal of instruction is +imparted with the mirth-making, but in every case the procession is +but a signal for general rejoicing. Directly the procession is +disbanded, which always takes place in military order, the entire +city gives way to fun and mirth of every character. Liberty abounds +throughout the city without license. By common consent every one is +careful to prevent disturbance or trouble. All are happy, and every +one seems to appreciate the fact that the very life of the comedy +depends upon its respectability. There is nothing vulgar or common +about any of the proceedings, or about the countless tableaux which +pass along the private streets. Everything is what has been +described as orderly disorder. Everything is attractive and +easy.</p> +<p>The ball, which is a prominent feature of a Creole carnival, is +a wonderful combination of Nineteenth Century aristocratic ideas +and of Oriental humor. The guests are in full dress, and represent +the highest elements of Southern society. Around the carpeted +floor, those who have taken part in the pageant march in their +grotesque costumes. An apparently blood-thirsty Indian, brandishing +a club over his head, darts for a second from the line to go +through the motions of dashing out the brains of perhaps a most +intimate friend, who has no idea who has thus honored him by a +recognition.</p> +<p>Another man, who in everyday life is, perhaps, a sedate banker +or a prominent physician, is masquerading in some extraordinary +attire with a mask of extraordinary dimensions and significance. He +sees in the throng a young lady of his acquaintance, and proceeds +to shake hands with her with great effusion. So well is the secret +kept, that she has no idea that the apparently frolicsome youth is +a middle-aged man of business, and she spends perhaps half the +night wondering which of her beaus this fearfully and wonderfully +disguised man was.</p> +<p>Of the balls which succeed carnivals in the cities which delight +in these temporary divorces from the cares of business and finance, +pages might be written. One ball only need be mentioned in any +detail. This is the ball given by the "Knights of Revelry," in +connection with and at the expense of the Mobile clubs. The entire +theatre was rearranged in illustration of the theme of the club's +pageant for the year. All around the halls were hung tapestries and +banners, artistically decorated, and arranged so as to convey the +idea of forests and gardens. The very doors were converted into +mimic entrances to caves and parterres, and the general effect was +entrancing as well as sentimental. The band was hidden from the +guests in a most delightfully arranged little Swiss chalet, and +refreshments were served from miniature garden pavilions. The very +floors upon which the dancing was to take place were decorated so +as to present the appearance of a newly mown lawn.</p> +<p>The height of realism was attained by means of an imitation moat +over the orchestra well. Across this was a drawbridge, which was +raised and dropped at fitting intervals, and the drop curtain was +made to represent a massive castle door. There was a banquet +chamber, with faultless reproductions of mediaeval grandeur and +wonder. Stained glass windows represented well-known and attractive +ladies, and there were other marvelous and costly innovations which +seemed practically impossible within a theatre.</p> +<p>At this ball, as at all others, the revelry proceeded until +midnight. Just as Cinderella left the ball when the clock struck +12, so do the holders of the Creole revels stop dancing immediately +that Lent has commenced. The next day all is over. Men who the +night before were the leaders in the masquerade, resume their +commonplace existence, and are seen at the ordinary seats of +custom, buying and selling and conducting themselves like Eastern +rather than Southern men.</p> +<p>The carnival idea has not been confined to strictly Southern +cities. St. Louis has, for many years in succession, enjoyed the +pageants and balls of its Veiled Prophets, an organization as +secret and mysterious as any to be found in a Creole section. +Instead of being a Mardi Gras celebration, the St. Louis pageant is +given during the Indian summer days of the first week of October. +The parade takes place after night-fall, and consists of very +costly pageants and displays. It is no exaggeration to say that +hundreds of thousands of dollars have been spent in illuminating +the streets through which the processions have passed, the money +for this purpose being freely subscribed by business men and +private citizens. But in St. Louis, as in New Orleans, no one knows +who finds the money to pay for the preparation of the pageant, the +rich and varied costumes, the exquisite invitations and souvenirs, +and the gorgeous balls. Readers of the "Pickwick Papers" will +remember that when certain members of the club proposed to make a +tour of the country, with a view to noting matters of special +interest, it was unanimously resolved not to limit the scope of the +investigations, and to extend to the investigators the privilege of +paying their own expenses. Very much the same rule prevails in +regard to the Creole carnivals and balls, and the adaptation of the +idea in other cities. The utmost secrecy is preserved, and it is +considered bad form in the extreme to even hint at belonging to any +of the secret orders. The members subscribe all expenses themselves +without a moment's hesitation, and there has never been such a +thing seen as a list of the amounts donated.</p> +<p>There are not lacking people who say that these celebrations are +childish, and beneath the dignity of a business community. The +answer to criticisms of this kind is, that no one being asked to +contribute to the expense of the revelries, or being even asked or +allowed to purchase a ticket of admission to the balls, any +criticisms are very much like looking a gift horse in the mouth. If +it be agreed that life is made up of something more than one stern, +continuous race for wealth, then it must be conceded that these +carnivals occupy a most important part in the routine of life. The +absolute unselfishness of the entire work commends it to the +approval of the most indifferent. Those who raise the expense have +to work so hard during the parades and balls that they get +comparatively little pleasure from them, while they are also +prevented by the absolute secrecy which prevails from securing so +much as a word of thanks or congratulation from the outside public. +In this material age, there is a danger of celebrations of this +kind wearing themselves out. When they do so, the world will be the +poorer in consequence.</p> +<p>New Orleans, to which we have referred as the great home of the +Creole carnival, is a city known the world over by reputation. It +is situated at the very mouth of the great Mississippi River, and +its history dates back to the year 1542, when a gallant band of +adventurers floated down the river into the Gulf of Mexico. In +1682, La Salle sailed down the river and took possession of the +country on both sides of it in the name of France. In the closing +days of the Seventeenth Century a French expedition landed not far +from New Orleans, which was founded in 1718, with a population of +sixty-eight souls. Three years later, the city, which now contains +a population of more than a quarter of a million, was made the +capital of the Territory of Louisiana, and it at once became a +place of considerable importance.</p> +<p>In 1764, it was ceded to Spain, and this resulted in the people +taking possession of New Orleans and resisting the change in +government. Five years later, the new Spanish Governor arrived with +ample troops, suppressed the rebellion, and executed its leaders +from the Place d'Armes. In 1804, the territory of Orleans was +established, and in 1814, a British army, 15,000 strong, advanced +on the city after which the Territory was named. A great deal of +confusion followed, but the city held its own, and the invading +army was repulsed.</p> +<p>During the Civil War New Orleans again saw active campaigning. +The occupancy of the city by General Butler, and the stern measures +he adopted to suppress the loyalty even of the women of the town, +has formed the subject of much comment. There are many interesting +stories concerning this epoch in the city's history, which are told +with many variations to every one who sojourns for a while in the +great port at the gate of the greatest river in the world.</p> +<p>To-day, New Orleans is perhaps best known as the second largest +cotton mart in the world, some 2,000,000 bales of the product of +the Southern plantations being received and shipped out every year. +More than 30,000,000 pounds of wool and 12,000,000 pounds of hides +also pass through the city every year, to say nothing of immense +quantities of bananas and costly transactions in sugar and +lumber.</p> +<p>Although New Orleans is really some little distance from the +ocean, the river at this point is more than half a mile wide, and +the great ships of all nations are seen loading and unloading at +its levee.</p> +<p>New Orleans naturally abounds in ancient landmarks and +memorials. The old Spanish Fort is one of the most interesting +among these. Warfare of the most bitter character was seen again +and again at this place. The fortifications were kept up largely to +afford protection against raids from Mexican pirates and hostile +Indians, though they were often useful against more civilized foes. +It was at this port that Andrew Jackson prepared to receive the +British invaders. The magnificent use he made of the fortifications +should have given to the old place a lasting standing and a +permanent preservation. Some forty years ago, however, the fort was +purchased and turned into a kind of country resort, and more lately +it has become the home of a recreation club.</p> +<p>Better preserved, and a most interesting connecting link between +the past and the present, is the world-renowned French Market in +New Orleans. A story is told of a great novelist, who traveled +several thousand miles in order to find representatives of all +nationalities grouped together in one narrow space. For a work he +had in contemplation he was anxious to select for his characters +men of all nationalities, whom chance or destiny had thrown +together. He spent several days in Paris, journeyed throughout +sunny Italy, got lost in some of the labyrinths of the unexplored +sections of London, and finally crossed the Atlantic without having +found the group of which he was in search. Not even in the large +cities of America could he find his heart's desire, and it was not +until he strayed into the old French Market of New Orleans that he +found that for which he searched. He spent several days, and even +weeks, wandering through the peculiar market, and making friends +with the men of all nationalities who were working in different +parts of it. He found the Creole, full of anecdote, superstition +and pride, even when he was earning an occasional meal by helping +to unload bananas, or to carry away the refuse from the fish +stores. The negro, in every phase of development, civilization and +ignorance, could, and always can, be found within the confines of +the market. The amount of folk-lore stored up in the brains covered +by masses of unkempt wool astounded the novelist, who distributed +dollars, in return for information received, so lavishly, that he +began to be looked upon after a while as a capitalist whose wealth +had driven him insane. Then, again, he met disappointed emigrants +from nearly all the European countries, men, and even women, who +had crossed the Atlantic full of great expectations, but who had +found a good many thorns among the looked-for roses.</p> +<p>The Indian is not often seen now around the French Market, +although he used to be quite a feature of it. Some of the most +exceptionally idle loungers, however, show evidence of Indian blood +in their veins, in the shape of exceptionally high cheek-bones, and +abnormally straight and ungovernable hair.</p> +<p>Almost every known language is spoken here. There is the purest +French and the most atrocious patois. There is polished English, +which seems to indicate high education, and there is the most +picturesque dialect variation that could be desired by the most +ardent devotee of the everlasting dialect story. Spanish is of +course spoken by several of the market traders and workers, while +Italian is quite common. At times in the day, when trade is very +busy, the visitor may hear choice expletives in three or four +languages at one time. He may not be able to interpret the peculiar +noises and stern rebukes administered to idle help and truant boys, +but he can generally guess pretty accurately the scope and object +of the little speeches which are scattered around so freely.</p> +<p>If it be asked what special function the market fulfills, the +answer is that it is a kind of inquire-within for everything. Many +of the poorer people do all their trading here. Fruit is a great +staple, and on another page a picture is given of one of the fruit +stands of the old market. The picture is reproduced from a +photograph taken on the spot by an artist of the National Company +of St. Louis, publishers of "Our Own Country," and it shows well +the peculiar construction of the market. The fruit sections are +probably the most attractive and the least objectionable of the +entire market, because here cleanliness is indispensable. In the +vegetable section, which is also very large, there is not always +quite so much care displayed or so much cleanliness enforced, +refuse being sometimes allowed to accumulate liberally. Fish can be +obtained in this market for an almost nominal consideration, being +sometimes almost given away. Macaroni and other similar articles of +diet form the staple feature of the Italian store of trade, which +is carried on on the second floor of the market. The legitimate +work called for alone provides excuse for the presence of many +thousand people, who run hither and thither at certain hours of the +day as though time were the essence of the contract, and no delay +of any kind could be tolerated. As soon, however, as the pressing +needs of the moment are satisfied, a period of luxurious idleness +follows, and rest seems to be the chief desideratum of the average +habitue or employe. The children, who are sitting around in large +numbers, vie with their elders in matters of idleness, though they +are occasionally aroused to a condition of pernicious activity by +the hope of securing donations or compensation of some kind from +newcomers and guests.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0375.jpg" name="Market" id="Market"><img src= +"images/m0375t.jpg" alt= +"The Old French Market at New Orleans" /></a> +<h4>The Old French Market at New Orleans</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>Structurally, the French Market is very well preserved. There +are evidences of antiquity and of the ravages of time and weather +on every side, but for all that the market seems to have as its +special mission the reminding of the people that when our ancestors +built, they built for ages, and not entirely for the immediate +present, as is too often the case nowadays. The market also serves +as a link between the present and the past. It is only of late +years that the bazaar, which used to be so prominent a feature, has +fallen into insignificance. Formerly it retained the importance of +the extreme Orient, and afforded infinite fund for reflection for +the antiquarian and the lover of history.</p> +<p>The cemeteries of New Orleans are of exceptional interest, and +are visited every year by thousands of people. Owing to the +proximity of the water mark to the surface of the ground, the dead +are not buried as in other cities, and the vaults are above instead +of under ground. They are well arranged, and the antiquity of the +burial grounds, and the historic memories connected with the +tablets, combine to make them of more than ordinary interest. The +local custom of suspending business on the first day of November of +each year for the purpose of decorating graves in all the +cemeteries, is also worthy of more than a passing notice. Not only +do people decorate the last resting places of their friends and +relatives on this specially selected day, but even the graves of +strangers are cared for in a spirit of thankfulness that the angel +of death has not entered the family circle, and made inroads into +bonds of friendship.</p> +<p>A few years ago a young woman died on the cars just as they were +entering the world-renowned Creole city. There was nothing on the +body to aid identification, and a stranger's grave had to be +provided. In the meantime the friends and relatives of the missing +girl had been making every effort to locate her, no idea having +occurred to them that she was going South. A loving brother finally +got hold of a clew, which he followed up so successfully that he at +last solved the mystery. He arrived in New Orleans on November 1st, +and when taken out to the grave that had been provided for the +stranger who had died just outside the gates, he was astounded to +find several handsome bouquets of flowers, with wreaths and +crosses, lying upon it. Such a sight could hardly have been met +with in any other city in the world, and too much can hardly be +said in praise of the sentiment which suggests and encourages such +disinterested kindness and thought.</p> +<p>The cemetery which occupies a site close to the great +battle-field, is always specially decorated, and crowds go out in +thousands to pay tribute to honored memories. Close to this spot +there is a monument to celebrate the great battle during which +General Pakingham was shot, and at which General Jackson galloped +excitedly up and down the lines, and almost forced the men on to +victory. The monument has not received the care which it deserves. +More than half a century ago work was commenced on it, and a great +deal was accomplished. But after a year or two of effort the +project was abandoned for the time, and it has never been renewed. +In the long interval that has ensued the roof has, in a large +measure, disappeared, as well as several of the steps leading up to +the front. Hundreds of people have cut their names in the stone +work, and the monument, which ought to be preserved in perpetuity, +looks so disreputable that little regret would be caused were the +entire fragment to be swept away by some unusually heavy gust of +wind.</p> +<p>More than 1,500 soldiers were buried in the Chalmette Cemetery +after the battle referred to. Since the war it has been well nigh +forgotten, but several duels and affaires d'honneur have been +settled on the historic spot.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c13" id="c13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THE HEATHEN CHINEE IN HIS ELEMENT.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Trip to Chinatown, San Francisco--A House with a +History--Narrow Alleys and Secret Doors--Opium Smoking and its +Effects--The Highbinders--Celestial Theatricals--Chinese +Festivals--The Brighter Side of a Great City--A Mammoth Hotel and +Beautiful Park.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Chinatown, San Francisco, is such a remarkable place, and +contrasts so strangely with the wealth and civilization of the +great city on the Pacific Coast, of which it is a part, that its +peculiarities cannot be ignored in a sketch of the most remarkable +features of our native land. Writers and artists have for years +made this blot on San Francisco's splendor the subject for sarcasm +and cartoon, and, indeed, it is difficult to handle the subject +without a considerable amount of severity. Californians are often +blamed for their harshness towards the Chinese, and the way in +which they have clamored from time to time for more stringent +exclusion laws. It takes a trip to Chinatown to make it clear to +the average mortal why this feeling is so general in San Francisco, +and why it extends throughout the entire Pacific Slope.</p> +<p>There are about 25,000 Chinese in and around San Francisco. A +small proportion of these have abandoned the worst features of +their race, and make themselves comparatively useful as domestic +servants. In order to retain their positions they have to +assimilate themselves more or less to the manners and customs of +the country, and they are only objectionable in certain respects. +But the one-time dwellers in the Celestial Empire, who make their +homes in Chinatown, have very few redeeming qualities, and most of +them seem to have no tangible excuse whatever for living.</p> +<p>They adhere to all the vices and uncivilized habits of their +forefathers, and very frequently add to them equally objectionable +vices of so-called civilization. At one time all the streets in +Chinatown were little more than elongated ash pits and garbage +receptacles. The public outcry at length became so vigorous that +the strong hand of the law was brought to bear, and now the +principal through streets are kept fairly clean. The side streets +and alleys are, however, still in a deplorable condition, and no +American or European could possibly live many days in such filth +without being stricken with a terrible disease. The Mongolians, +however, seem to thrive under conditions which are fatal to +civilized humanity. They live to quite the average age, and the +children seem to be very healthy, if not conspicuously happy.</p> +<p>Chinatown covers an area of about eight large squares, in the +very heart of San Francisco. Again and again attempts have been +made to get rid of the drawback and nuisance. But the "Melica Man" +has allowed himself to be outwitted by the "Heathen Chinee," who +has secured property rights which cannot be overcome without a +measure of confiscation, which would appear to be scarcely +constitutional. The area is probably one of the most densely +populated in the world. The Chinese seem to sleep everywhere and +anywhere, and the houses are overcrowded to an extent which passes +all belief. It is known as an actual fact, that in rooms twelve +feet square as many as twelve human beings sleep and eat, and even +cook what passes with them for food. The houses themselves are so +horrible in their condition, and have been so remodeled from time +to time, to meet Celestial ideas and fall in with notions which are +but a relic of barbarism, that not even a colored man of the most +degraded type can be persuaded to live permanently in a house which +has ever been occupied by an unregenerated denizen of +Chinatown.</p> +<p>At the entrance to this peculiar, and, indeed, disreputable +quarter, there is a house with a peculiar history. It was built +more than a quarter of a century ago, by a wealthy banker, who +selected the site because of the admirable view that could be +obtained from it of the leading features of the city. He spared no +expense in its erection, and when it was completed he was able to +gaze from the upper windows upon some of the most beautiful scenery +in the world. For a while the banker lived in the most magnificent +style, and earned for himself a reputation as a prince of +entertainers. He spent thousands of dollars on entertainments, and +appeared to have everything that a human being could desire. His +end was a tragic one, and it has never been ascertained for certain +whether he died by his own hand, or by the hand of one of his +alleged friends or avowed foes. The house which was once his great +pride is now occupied by the Chinese Consul.</p> +<p>It is still, by far, the finest house in the Chinese quarter. +The moment it is passed the sight-seeker or slummer finds himself +in the midst of a horrible collection of Oriental filth and +squalor. There are a number of stores which excite his contempt the +moment his eyes light upon them. They are chiefly devoted to the +retailing of such food as the occupants of Chinatown delight in, +and over many of them the Chinese national emblem can be seen +flying. Fish are on sale in large numbers, and as they are kept +until sold, regardless of their condition, the effluvia of some of +the fish markets can be very easily imagined. Vegetables also form +a very large proportion of the daily bills of fare, and these add +materially to the malodorous condition of the neighborhood. The +streets are all of them very narrow, and there are also a number of +exceptionally narrow and complicated passages and alleys, which +have been the scenes of crimes innumerable in days gone by.</p> +<p>Some of these alleys are but three or four feet wide, and, owing +to their almost countless turns and angles, they afford an easy +means for the escape of a fugitive who is being hunted by the +police, or by one of those blood-thirsty Chinese societies of which +the Highbinders is a type. One writer who has investigated the +matter very thoroughly, tells us that most of the houses have +secret doors leading from one to the other in such a manner that if +a fugitive should determine to make his escape, he can always do so +by means of these secret doors, and the underground passages to +which they lead.</p> +<p>The stores, workshops and other apartments are generally +exceedingly small, and the proverbial economy of the Chinaman is +proved by the fact that every square foot of floor space and ground +is put to some practical use, and one finds cobblers, barbers, +fortune-tellers and a multitude of small tradesmen carrying on a +business in a jog, or niche in the wall, not as large as an +ordinary bootblack's stand. Along the narrow sidewalks are seen +many of these curbstone merchants. Some have their goods displayed +in glass show-cases, ranged along the wall, where are exhibited +queer-looking fancy articles of Chinese workmanship, of a cheap +grade, all sorts of inexpensive ornaments for women and children's +wear, curiously fashioned from ivory, bone, beads, glass and brass, +water and opium pipes galore.</p> +<p>The opium pipe is something so unlike any European conception of +a pipe that it is difficult to describe it. It consists of a large +bamboo tube or cylinder, with a bowl about midway between the +extremities. The bowl is sometimes a very small brass plate, and +sometimes an earthen cup-shaped contrivance, with the top closed or +decked over, having only a tiny hole in the center. Into this +little aperture the opium, in a semi-liquid state, after being well +melted in a lamp flame, is thrust by means of a fine wire or +needle. The drug is inserted in infinitesimal quantities. It is +said that all the Chinese smoke opium, although all do not indulge +to excess. Some seem to be able to use the drug without its gaining +the mastery over them.</p> +<p>There are more than a hundred opium dens in the Chinese +quarters. These places are used for no other purpose whatever at +any time. If it were the Chinese alone who frequented them, but +little would be thought of it. Hundreds of white people, men, women +and the youth of both sexes, have, however, become victims to this +loathsome habit. So completely enslaved are they, that there is no +escape from the tyrant. For all the poverty and untold misery this +has brought upon these unfortunates, the Chinese are responsible. +Vices cluster around Chinese social life, and nearly every house +has its opium-smoking apartment, or rooms where the lottery or some +kind of gambling is carried on.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0376.jpg" name="Chinese" id="Chinese"><img src= +"images/m0376t.jpg" alt= +"The Prettiest Chinese Woman in America" /></a> +<h4>The Prettiest Chinese Woman in America</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The residents of Chinatown have a government of their own, with +its social and economic regulations, and its police and penal +department, and they even inflict the death penalty, but in such a +secret way that the outside world seldom hears of these acts of +high authority. This social and commercial policy is controlled by +six companies, to one of which every Chinaman in the country owes +allegiance and is tributary. These companies severally represent +different provinces in the Chinese Empire, and upon every arrival +of a steamer from that country, and before the passengers are +landed, the Chinese portion of them are visited by an official of +the six companies, who ascertains what province each arriving +coolie is from. That decides as to which company he will +belong.</p> +<p>Every Chinaman who comes is assured of his return to China, or, +if he is so unfortunate as to die while in exile, that his bones +will be sent home. This very important matter is one of the duties +of the six companies. This comforting assurance, however, is not +shared in by the women, whom, excepting those who are the wives of +men of the better class, are brought over by a vile class of +traders, and sold as chattels, or slaves, having no relation to the +six companies.</p> +<p>There is in the Chinese quarters a ghastly underground place, +where the bones of the departed are conveyed, after they have +remained a certain time in the ground. Here they are scraped, +cleaned and packed, preparatory to their last journey back to the +fatherland, and their final resting place. Among the Chinese +residents of San Francisco there are comparatively few of those of +the higher class. The difference between them and the masses is +very pronounced, and they appreciate the difference to the fullest +extent. They are educated, well-bred gentlemen. The coolie and +lower class are an ignorant, repulsive and ill-mannered people. +They seem to be mere brutes, and not a gleam of intelligence is +apparent in their dull, expressionless faces.</p> +<p>The "Highbinders" are bound together by solemn obligations, and +are the instruments used by other Chinamen to avenge their real or +fancied wrongs. The Highbinders are organized into lodges or tongs, +which are engaged in constant feuds with each other. They wage open +warfare, and so deadly is their mutual hatred, that the war ceases +only when the last individual who has come under the ban of a rival +tong has been sacrificed. These feuds resemble the vendettas in +some of the Southern States of Europe, and they defy all efforts of +the police to suppress them. Murders are, consequently, frequent, +but it is next to impossible to identify the murderers, and if a +Chinaman is arrested on suspicion, or even almost positive evidence +of guilt, the trial uniformly ends in a failure to convict.</p> +<p>The theatres are, to the visitor, probably the most interesting +feature of the Chinese quarters. A few years ago there were several +of these playhouses, but the number is now reduced to two. The +charge of admission is 25 cents or 50 cents.</p> +<p>The white people who, out of curiosity, attend a performance, +generally pay more, and are given more comfortable seats upon the +stage. The stage is a primitive affair. It boasts of no curtain, +footlights or scenery of any kind.</p> +<p>When, during the progress of a play, a man is killed, he lies +upon the stage until the scene is ended, and then gets up and walks +off. Sometimes an attendant will bring in and place under his head +a small wooden pillow, so that the dead man may rest more +comfortably. After an actor has been beheaded, he has been known to +pickup the false head and apostrophize it while making his exit +from the stage. The orchestra is at the back of the stage. It +usually consists of one or two ear-splitting flageolets and a +system of gongs and tom-toms, which keep up an infernal din during +the entire performance.</p> +<p>Chinese plays are usually historical, and vary in length from a +few hours to several months. The costumes are gorgeous after the +Chinese ideas of splendor. No females are allowed on the stage at +all, young men with falsetto voices invariably impersonating the +women.</p> +<p>The restaurants of Chinatown are a very unsatisfactory feature +of the unsavory quarter. Many of the laborers board at them, and +the smaller ones are nothing in the world but miserable little +chop-houses, badly ventilated and exceedingly objectionable, and, +indeed, injurious to health and good morals. There are larger +restaurants, which are more expensively equipped. Shakespeare's +advice as to neatness without gaudiness is not followed. There is +always a profusion of color in decoration, but there is never +anything like symmetry or beauty.</p> +<p>There are an immense number of joss-houses in Chinatown. Each +company has one of its own. Others belong to the societies, tongs +and to private parties. The appointments of these temples are +gorgeous in their way. One has recently been opened on Waverly +Place, which far surpasses all the others in the grandeur of its +sacred equipments and decoration. The idols, bronzes, carvings, +bells, banners and the paraphernalia of the temple are said to have +cost about $20,000, and represents the highest degree of Chinese +art. In front of the throne in each of these temples, where the +principal god is seated, burns a sacred flame that is never +extinguished. In a cabinet at the right of the entrance is a small +image called "the doorkeeper," who sees that no harm befalls the +temple of those who enter.</p> +<p>The temple doors are always open, and those who are religiously +inclined can come in at any hour of the day. Prayers are written or +printed on red or blue paper. These are lighted and deposited in a +sort of furnace with an opening near the top, and as the smoke +ascends the bell near by is sounded to attract the attention of the +gods. The women have a favorite method of telling their fortunes. +They kneel before the altar, holding in either hand a small wooden +block, about-five inches long, which resembles a split banana. +These they raise to their closed eyes, bow the head and drop. If +they fall in a certain position, it is an indication that the wish +or prayer will be granted. If they fall in an unfavorable position, +they continue the effort until the blocks fall as desired. When +business is dull and times hard with the Chinaman, they attribute +it to the displeasure of their gods. They try to propitiate the +offended deity by burning incense sticks, and offering fruits and +other things which have no Christian equivalent, and which are +supposed to be grateful to the divine palate.</p> +<p>The Chinese observe a great many holidays. The most important +are those of the New Year. This is a movable feast, and occurs +between the 21st of January and the 19th of February. The New Year +must fall on the first new moon after the sun has entered Aquarius. +It is customary at this time to have all business straightened out, +and all debts contracted during the year paid. Unless this is done, +they will have no credit during the year, and consequently a great +effort is made to pay their creditors. There are some, however, who +have been unfortunate and have laid by nothing for this day of +settlement, and knowing well that there are a number of those +troublesome little bills that are liable to be presented at any +time, they keep themselves out of sight until the sun has risen +upon the New Year.</p> +<p>They then reappear in their accustomed haunts, feeling safe for +a few days at least, for while the merry-making is going on there +is no danger of being confronted with a dun. All gloomy subjects +are tabooed, and everybody devotes himself to getting all the +enjoyment he possibly can out of this festal day. To some this is +the only holiday in the whole year, and they are obliged to return +to their labors the following day. Others will celebrate three or +four days, and so on up the scale. The rich and the independent +keep it up for fully two weeks, and begin to settle down to +everyday life about the sixteenth day.</p> +<p>The night preceding New Year's day is spent in religious +ceremonies at the temples or at home. Out of doors the air is +filled with the smoke and roar of exploding firecrackers. But when +the clock has tolled the death of the old and announced the birth +of the New Year, one would think that Pandemonium was let loose. +Unless one has heard it, no idea can be formed as to what this +unearthly noise really is. We are told it is to frighten away evil +spirits, to invoke the favor of the gods, to bid, as they fondly +hope, a final farewell to ill-luck; and, again, simply because they +are happy, and when in this frame of mind, they love to manifest +their joy in noisy demonstrations. A certain time in the early +morning is spent in worship at the shrines at home and in the +temples. They place before their sacred images, offerings of tea, +wine, rice, fruits and flowers. The Chinese lily is in full bloom +at this season, and it occupies a conspicuous place in the +joss-houses. It is for sale on every street corner.</p> +<p>The day is spent in feasting, pleasure seeking, and in making +New Year's calls. The Chinamen are always greatly pleased to +receive calls from white men with whom they have business dealings, +and they exhibit their cards with much pride. They are very +punctilious and even rival the Frenchmen in politeness, and it is +considered an offense if any of their proffered hospitalities are +declined.</p> +<p>But while Chinatown is the most extraordinary feature of San +Francisco, and is visited by tourists who naturally look upon it +somewhat in the light of forbidden and hence exceptionally +attractive fruit, it is not by any means the most interesting or +most important feature of one of the finest cities in the world. +San Francisco is the metropolis of the Pacific Slope. It occupies +the point of a long peninsula between the bay and the ocean, and so +unique is its site that it includes some magnificent hills and +peaks. The history of San Francisco bristles with border and gold +mine stories and tales of the early troubles of pioneers. Whole +pages could be written concerning the adventures of the early days +of this remarkable city. The time was when a few frame buildings +constituted the entire town. The rush of speculators following +discovery after discovery of gold, converted the quiet little port +into a scene of turmoil and disturbance.</p> +<p>Every ship brought with it a cargo of more or less desperate +men, who had come from various points of the compass determined to +obtain a lion's share of the gold which they had been told could be +had for the taking. The value of commodities went up like +sky-rockets. The man who had a few spare mules and wagons on hand +was able to realize ten times the price that was tendered for them +before the boom. Many men who were thus situated did not consider +it advisable to throw away their chances by accepting grave risks +in search of gold, and many who stayed at home and supplied the +wants of those who went up country realized handsome competences, +and in some cases small fortunes.</p> +<p>That there was a good deal of lawlessness and violence is not to +be wondered at. It has been said that for every bona fide miner +there was at least one hanger-on or camp follower, who had no +intention of doing any digging or washing, but who was smart enough +to realize that a veritable thief's paradise would be built up by +the hard workers. Sometimes these men went to the trouble of +digging tunnels under the ground and into the tents of successful +miners, frequently passing through rich deposits of gold on the +way. At other times they waylaid wagons and coaches coming into San +Francisco from the mining camps. History tells us of the fights +which ensued, and we have all heard of the successful miners who +were murdered while asleep at half-way houses, and the result of +their hard toil turned to base uses and vicious purposes.</p> +<p>In San Francisco itself robbery and violence could not be +suppressed. We have all heard of the way in which the decent +element finally got together, formed special laws and executed +offenders in short order. No one of course approves lynch law in +the abstract, but when the circumstances of the case are taken into +consideration, it is difficult to condemn very severely the men who +made it possible for San Francisco to become a great and honored +city.</p> +<p>The population of San Francisco to-day is about a third of a +million. A greater portion of its growth has been during the last +quarter of a century, and it was the first city in this country to +lay cable conduits and adopt a system of cable cars. For several +years it had practically a monopoly in this mode of street +transportation, and, although electricity has since provided an +even more convenient motive power, San Francisco will always be +entitled to credit for the admirable missionary work it did in this +direction. At the present time, almost every portion of the city +and its beautiful parks can be reached easily by a system of +transportation as comfortable and rapid as it is inexpensive.</p> +<p>Among the wonders of San Francisco must be mentioned the Palace +Hotel, a structure of immense magnitude and probably two or three +times as large as the average Eastern man imagines. The site of the +hotel covers a space of more than an acre and a half, and several +million dollars were spent on this structure. Everything is +magnificent, expansive, huge and massive. The building itself is +seven stories high, and in its center, forming what may be +described as the grandest enclosed court in the world, is a +circular space 144 feet across and roofed in with glass at a great +height. Carriages are driven into this enclosure, and, in the +nearest approach to severe weather known in San Francisco, guests +can alight practically indoors.</p> +<p>There are nearly 800 bed-rooms, all of them large and lofty, and +the general style of architecture is more than massive. The +foundation walls are 12 feet thick, and 31,000,000 brick were used +above them. The skeleton of wrought iron bands, upon which the +brick and stone work is constructed, weighs more than 3,000 tons. +Four artesian wells supply pure water to the house, which is not +only one of the largest hotels in the world, but also one of the +most complete and independent in its arrangements.</p> +<p>A pleasant ride of nearly four miles in length brings the rider +to Golden Gate Park. The Golden Gate, from which the park takes its +name, is one of the world's beauty spots, and here some of the most +exquisite sunsets ever witnessed can be seen. The Gate is the +entrance from the Pacific Ocean to San Francisco Bay, which varies +in width from ten to fifteen miles. At the Gate the width is +suddenly reduced to less than a mile, and hence at ebb and flow the +current is very swift. Near the Gate sea lions can be seen +gamboling in the surf, and the waves can be observed striking on +the rocks and boulders, and sending up spray of foamy whiteness to +a height of a hundred feet.</p> +<p>Golden Gate Park is like everything else on the Pacific Coast, +immense and wonderful. It is not the largest park in the world, but +it ranks amongst the most extensive. Its acreage exceeds a +thousand, and it is difficult to appreciate the fact that the +richly cultivated ground through which the tourist is driven has +been reclaimed from the ocean, and was but once little more than a +succession of sand bars and dunes.</p> +<p>When the reader goes to San Francisco, as we hope he will go +some day, if he has not already visited it, he will be told within +a few minutes of his entering the city, that he has at least +reached what may be fairly termed God's country. Of the glorious +climate of California he will hear much at every step, and before +he has been in the city many days, he will wonder how he is to get +out of it alive if he is to see but a fraction of the wonderful +sights to which his attention is called.</p> +<p>California is frequently spoken of as the Golden State. The name +California was given to the territory comprising the State and +Lower California as long ago as 1510, when a Spanish novelist, +either in fancy or prophecy, wrote concerning "the great land of +California, where an abundance of gold and precious stones are +found." In 1848, California proper was ceded to the United States, +and in the same year the discovery of gold at Colomo put a stop to +the peace and quiet which had prevailed on the fertile plains, the +unexplored mountains and the attractive valleys. Shortly after, a +hundred thousand men rushed into the State, and for the first few +years as many as a hundred thousand miners were kept steadily at +work.</p> +<p>It was in 1856 that the famous Vigilance Committee was formed. +In the month of May of that year murderers were taken from jail and +executed, the result being that the Governor declared San Francisco +to be in a state of insurrection. The Vigilance Committee gained +almost sovereign power, and before it disbanded in August, it had a +parade in which over 5,000 armed, disciplined men took part.</p> +<p>Two years later, the overland mail commenced its journeys and +the celebrated pony express followed in 1860. Railroads followed +soon after, and instead of being a practically unknown country, +several weeks' journey from the old established cities, the +lightning express has brought the Pacific so near to the Atlantic +that time and space seem to have been almost annihilated.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c14" id="c14">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>BEFORE EMANCIPATION AND AFTER.</h4> +<br /> +<p>First Importation of Negro Slaves into America--The Original +Abolitionists--A Colored Enthusiast and a Coward--Origin of the +word "Secession"--John Brown's Fanaticism--Uncle Tom's +Cabin--Faithful unto Death--George Augustus Sala on the Negro who +Lingered too long in the Mill Pond.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>The American negro is such a distinct character that he cannot +be overlooked in a work of this nature. Some people think he is +wholly bad, and that although he occasionally assumes a virtue, he +is but playing a part, and playing it but indifferently well at +that. Others place him on a lofty pedestal, and magnify him into a +hero and a martyr.</p> +<p>But the Afro-American, commonly called a "nigger" in the South, +is neither the one nor the other. He is often as worthless as the +"white trash" he so scornfully despises, and he is often all that +the most exacting could expect, when his surroundings and +disadvantages are taken into consideration. Physiologists tell us +that man is very largely what others make him, many going so far as +to say that character and disposition are three parts hereditary +and one part environment. If this is so, a good deal of allowance +should be made. It is less than 300 years since the first negroes +were brought over to this country, and it is but little more than +thirty years since slavery was abolished. Hence, from both the +standpoints of descent and environment, the negro is at a great +disadvantage, and he should hardly be judged by the common +standard.</p> +<p>It was in the year 1619 that a Dutch ship landed a cargo of +negroes from Guinea, but that was not really the first case of +slavery in this country. Prior to that time paupers and criminals +from the old world had voluntarily sold themselves into a species +of subjection, in preference to starvation and detention in their +own land; but this landing in 1619 seems to have really introduced +the colored man into the labor world and market of America.</p> +<p>We need not trace the history of the negro as a slave at any +length. That he was occasionally abused goes without saying, but +that his condition was approximately as bad as a majority of +writers have attempted to prove is not so certain. It was the +policy of the slave owner to get as much work out of his staff as +he possibly could. He knew from experience that the powers of human +endurance were necessarily limited, and that a man could not work +satisfactorily when he was sick or hungry. Hence, even on the +supposition that all slave owners were without feeling, it is +obvious that self-interest must have impelled them to keep the +negro in good health, and to prevent him from losing strength from +hardship and want.</p> +<p>On some plantations the lot of the slave was a hard one, but on +others there was very little complaining or cause for complaint. +Thousands of slaves were better off by far than they have been +subsequent to liberation, and it is a fact that speaks volumes for +the much discussed and criticized slaveholders, that numbers of +emancipated slaves refused to accept their freedom, while many +more, who went away delighted at the removal of withstraint, came +back of their own option very soon after, and begged to be allowed +to resume the old relations.</p> +<p>The average negro obeys, literally obeys, the divine instruction +to take no thought for the morrow. If he has a good dinner in the +oven he is apt to forget for the time being that there is such a +meal as supper, and he certainly does not give even a passing +thought to the fact that if he has no breakfast in the morning he +will be "powerfu' hungry." This indifference as to the future +robbed slavery of much of its hardship, and although every one +condemns the idea in the abstract, there are many humane men and +women who do not think the colored man suffered half as much as has +so often and so emphatically been stated.</p> +<p>Abolition was advocated with much earnestness for many years +prior to Lincoln's famous emancipation proclamation. The agitation +first took tangible shape during the administration of General +Jackson, a man who received more hero worship than has fallen to +the lot of any of his successors. To a zealous, if perhaps bigoted, +Quaker belongs the credit of having started the work, by founding a +newspaper, which he called the "Genius of Universal Emancipation." +William Lloyd Garrison, subsequently with "The Liberator," was +connected with this journal, and in the first issue he announced as +his programme, war to the death against slavery in every form. "I +will not equivocate; I will not excuse; I will not retreat a single +inch, and I will be heard," was the announcement with which he +opened the campaign, which he subsequently carried on with more +conspicuous vigor than success.</p> +<p>Garrison handled the question of the relation between the white +and colored people of the country without gloves, and his very +outspoken language occasionally got him into trouble. The people +who supported him were known as Abolitionists, a name which even at +that early date conjured up hard feeling, and divided household +against household, and family against family. Among these Garrison +was regarded as a hero, and to some extent as a martyr, while the +bitterness of his invective earned for him the title of fanatic and +crank from the thousands who disagreed with him, and who thought he +was advocating legislation in advance of public sentiment.</p> +<p>The debates of the days of which we are speaking were full of +interest. Many of the arguments advanced teemed with force. The +Abolitionists denounced the Republic for inconsistency, in +declaring that all men were equal, and then keeping 3,000,000 +colored people in enforced subjection. In reply the Bible was +freely quoted in defense of slavery, and the fight was taken up by +ministers of religion with much zeal. It was not, by any means, a +sectional question at that time. While the slaves were owned by +Southern planters and landed proprietors, they were purchased and +kept on borrowed capital, and many of the men in the North, who +were supposed to sympathize with the Abolitionists, were as much +interested in the perpetuation of slavery as those who actually +owned the slaves themselves.</p> +<p>In the year 1831, a negro named Turner, supported by six +desperate and misguided fellow countrymen, started out on what they +regarded as a practical crusade against slavery. Turner professed +to have seen visions such as inspired Joan of Arc, and he proceeded +to fulfill what he regarded as his divine mission, in a very +fanatical manner. First, the white man who owned Turner was +murdered, and then the band proceeded to kill off all white men in +sight or within convenient reach. Within two days nearly fifty +white men were destroyed by those avenging angels, as they were +called, and then the insurrection or crusade was terminated by the +organizing of a handful of white men who did not propose to be +sacrificed as had been their fellows.</p> +<p>Turner's bravery was great when there was no resistance, but he +recognized that discretion was the better part of valor the moment +organized resistance was offered. Taking to the woods, he left his +followers to shift for themselves. For more than a week he lived on +what he could find in the wheat fields, and then, coming in contact +with an armed white man, he speedily surrendered. A week later he +was hanged, and seventeen other colored men suffered a like penalty +for connection with the conspiracy. The murderous outbreak had +other dire results for the negro, and caused many innocent men to +be suspected and punished.</p> +<p>A year later, Garrison started the New England Anti-Slavery +Society, which was followed by many similar organizations. So +intense did the feeling become that President Jackson thought it +advisable to recommend legislation excluding Abolition literature +from the mails. The measure was finally defeated, but in the +Southern States, particularly, a great deal of mail was searched +and even condemned. Rewards were offered in some of the +slave-holding States for the apprehension of some of the leading +Abolitionists, and feeling ran very high, every outbreak being laid +at the doors of the men who were preaching the new gospel of equal +rights, regardless of color.</p> +<p>Mobs frequently took a hand in the proceedings, and several men +were attacked and arrested on very flimsy pretexts. In 1836, the +Pennsylvania Hall, in Philadelphia, was burned, because it had been +dedicated by an anti-slavery meeting. So bitter did the feeling +become that every attempt to open schools for colored children was +followed by disturbance, the teachers being driven away and the +books destroyed. Numerous petitions on the subject were sent to +Congress, and there was an uproar in the House when it was proposed +to refer a petition for the abolition of slavery in the District of +Columbia to a committee. The Southern Congressmen withdrew from the +House as a formal protest, and the word "secession," which was +subsequently to acquire such a much more significant meaning, was +first applied to this action on their part.</p> +<p>A compromise, however, was effected, and the seceding members +took their seats on the following day. Feeling, however, ran very +high. Some people returned fugitive slaves to their owners, while +others established what was then known as the underground railway. +This was a combination between Abolitionists in various parts, and +involved the feeding and housing of slaves, who were passed on from +house to house and helped on their road to Canada. Much excitement +was caused in 1841 by the ship "Creole," which sailed from Richmond +with a cargo of 135 slaves from the Virginia plantation. Near the +Bahama Islands one of the slaves named Washington, as by the way a +good many thousand slaves were named from time to time, headed a +rebellion. The slaves succeeded in overpowering the crew and in +confining the captain and the white passengers. They forced the +captain to take the boat to New Providence, where all except the +actual members of the rebelling crowd were declared free.</p> +<p>Joshua Giddings, of Ohio, offered a resolution in the House of +Representatives claiming that every man who had been a slave in the +United States was free the moment he crossed the boundary of some +other country. The way in which this resolution was received led to +the resignation of Mr. Giddings. He offered himself for +re-election, and was sent back to Congress by an enormous majority. +As Ohio had been very bitter in its anti-negro demonstrations, the +vote was regarded as very significant. The Supreme Court decided +differently from the people, and a ruling was handed down to the +effect that fugitive slaves were liable to re-capture. The court +held that the law as to slavery was paramount in free as well as +slave States, and that every law-abiding citizen must recognize +these rights and not interfere with them. Feeling became very +intense after this, and for a time it threatened to extend far +beyond rational limits. In the church the controversy waxed warm, +and in more than one instance division as well as dissension +arose.</p> +<p>In 1858, a new phase was given to the controversy by John Brown. +Every one has heard of this remarkable man, who was regarded by +some as a martyr, and by others as a dangerous crank. As one writer +very aptly puts it, John Brown was both the one and the other. That +his intentions were in the main good, few doubt, but his methods +were open to the gravest censure, and according to some deep +thinkers he was, in a large degree, responsible for the bitter +feeling which made war between the North and the South inevitable. +Probably this is giving undue importance to this much-discussed +enthusiast, who regarded himself as a divine messenger sent to +liberate the slaves and punish the slave-holders.</p> +<p>He conceived the idea of rallying all the colored people around +him in the impregnable mountains of Virginia, and having drafted a +constitution, he proceeded to unfurl his flag and call out his +supporters. In October, 1859, he took possession of the United +States Armory at Harper's Ferry, interfered with the running of +trains, and practically held the town with a force of some eighteen +men, of whom four were colored. Colonel Robert E. Lee quickly came +on the scene with a detachment of troops and drove the Brown +following into an engine-house. They declined to surrender, and +thirteen were either killed or mortally wounded. Two of Brown's +sons were among those who fell, and the leader himself was +captured. He treated his trial with the utmost indifference, and +went to the scaffold erect and apparently unconcerned. His body was +taken to his old home in New York State, where it was buried.</p> +<p>Abraham Lincoln must not be included in the list of enthusiastic +Abolitionists, although he eventually freed the slaves. In speeches +made prior to the war he expressed the opinion that in slave States +general emancipation would be ill-advised, and although his +election was looked upon as dangerous to slave-holders' interests, +the fear seems to have been prophetic in a large measure. It was +not until the war had lasted far longer than originally anticipated +that Lincoln definitely threatened to liberate the colored slaves. +That threat he carried into execution on January 1st, 1863, when +3,000,000 slaves became free. The cause of the Confederacy had not +yet become the "lost cause," and the leaders on the Southern side +were inclined to ridicule the decree, and to regard it rather as a +"bluff" than anything of a serious order. But it was emancipation +in fact as well as in deed, as the colored orator never tired of +explaining.</p> +<p>Such in outline is the history of the colored man during the +days of enforced servitude. Of his condition during that period +volumes have been written. Few works printed in the English +language have been more widely circulated than "Uncle Tom's Cabin," +which has been read in every English-speaking country in the world, +and in many other countries besides. It has been dramatized and +performed upon thousands of stages before audiences of every rank +and class. As a descriptive work it rivals in many passages the +very best ever written. Much controversy has taken place as to how +much of the book is history--how much of it is founded upon fact +and how much is pure fiction. The ground is a rather dangerous one +to touch. It is safest to say that while the brutality held up to +scorn and contempt in this book was not general in the slave States +or on plantations in the South, what is depicted might have taken +place under existing laws, and the book exposed iniquities which +were certainly perpetrated in isolated cases.</p> +<p>That all negroes were not treated badly, or that slavery +invariably meant misery, can be easily proved by any one who takes +the trouble to investigate, even in the most superficial manner. +When the news of emancipation gradually spread through the remote +regions of the South, there were hundreds and probably thousands of +negroes who declined absolutely to take advantage of the freedom +given them. Many most pathetic cases of devotion and love were made +manifest. Even to-day there are numbers of aged colored men and +women who are remaining with their old-time owners and declining to +regard emancipation as logical or reasonable.</p> +<p>Not long ago, a Northern writer while traveling through the +South found an aged negro, whom he approached with a view to +getting some interesting passages of local history. To his surprise +he found that the old man had but one idea. That idea was that it +was his duty to take care of and preserve his old master's grave. +When the war broke out, the old hero was the body-servant or valet +of a man, who, from the very first, was in the thick of the fight +against the North. The colored man followed his soldier-master from +place to place, and when a Northern bullet put an end to the career +of the master, the servant reverently conveyed the body back to the +old home, superintended the interment, and commenced a daily +routine of watching, which for more than thirty years he had never +varied.</p> +<p>All the relatives of the deceased had left the neighborhood +years before, and the faithful old negro was the only one left to +watch over the grave and keep the flowers that were growing on it +in good condition. As far as could be learned from local gossip, +the old fellow had no visible means of subsistence, securing what +little he needed to eat in exchange for odd jobs around neighboring +houses. No one seemed to know where he slept, or seemed to regard +the matter as of any consequence. There was about the jet black +hero, however, an air of absolute happiness, added to an obvious +sense of pride at the performance of his self-imposed and very +loving task.</p> +<p>Instances of this kind could be multiplied almost without end. +The negro as a free man and citizen retains many of the most +prominent characteristics which marked his career in the days +before the war. Now and again one hears of a negro committing +suicide. Such an event, however, is almost as rare as resignation +of an office-holder or the death of an annuitant. Indifference to +suffering and a keen appreciation of pleasure, make prolonged grief +very unusual among Afro-Americans, and in consequence their lives +are comparatively joyous.</p> +<p>One has to go down South to appreciate the colored man as he +really is. In the North he is apt to imitate the white man so much +that he loses his unique personality. In the Southern States, +however, he can be found in all his original glory. Here he can be +regarded as a survival of preceding generations. In the South, +before the war, the truism that there is dignity in toil was +scarcely appreciated at its full worth. The negro understood, as if +by instinct, that he ought to work for his white master, and that +duties of every kind in the field, on the road and in the house, +should be performed by him. For a white man who worked he +entertained feelings in which there was a little pity and a great +deal of contempt. He has never got over this feeling, or the +feeling which his father before him had. Down South to-day the +expression "po' white trash" is still full of meaning, and the +words are uttered by the thick-lipped, woolly-headed critics with +an emphasis and expression the very best white mimic has never yet +succeeded in reproducing.</p> +<p>George Augustus Sala, one of England's oldest and most +successful descriptive writers, talks very entertainingly regarding +the emancipated slave. The first trip made to this country by the +versatile writer referred to was during the war.</p> +<p>He returned home full of prejudices, and wrote up the country in +that supercilious manner European writers are too apt to adopt in +regard to America. Several years later he made his second trip, and +his experiences, as recorded in "America Revisited," are much +better reading, and much freer from prejudice.</p> +<p>"For full five and thirty years," he writes, "had I been waiting +to see the negro 'standing in the mill pond.' I saw him in all his +glory and all his driving wretchedness at Guinneys, in the State of +Virginia. I own that for some days past the potential African, +'standin' in de mill pond longer than he oughter' had been lying +somewhat heavily on my conscience. My acquaintance with our dark +brethren since arriving in this country had not only been +necessarily limited, but scarcely of a nature to give me any +practical insight into his real condition since he has been a free +man--free to work or starve; free to become a good citizen or go to +the devil, as he has gone, mundanely speaking, in Hayti and +elsewhere. Colored folks are few and far between in New York, and +they have never, as a rule, been slaves, and are not even generally +of servile extraction. In Philadelphia they are much more numerous. +Many of the mulatto waiters employed in the hotels are strikingly +handsome men, and on the whole the sable sons of Pennsylvania +struck me as being industrious, well dressed, prosperous, and a +trifle haughty in their intercourse with white folks.</p> +<p>"In Baltimore, where slavery existed until the promulgation of +Lincoln's proclamation, the colored people are plentiful. I met a +good many ragged, shiftless, and generally dejected negroes of both +sexes, who appeared to be just the kind of waifs and strays who +would stand in a mill pond longer than they ought to in the event +of there being any convenient mill pond at hand. But the better +class darkeys, who have been domestic slaves in Baltimore families, +seemed to retain all their own affectionate obsequiousness of +manner and respectful familiarity. Again, in Washington, the black +man and his congeners seemed to be doing remarkably well. At one of +the quietest, most elegant and most comfortable hotels in the +Federal Capital, I found the establishment conducted by a colored +man, all of whose employes, from the clerks in the office to the +waiters and chambermaids, were colored. Our chambermaid was a +delightful old lady, and insisted ere we left that we should give +her a receipt for a real old English Christmas plum pudding.</p> +<p>"But these were not the mill pond folk of whom I was in quest. +They were of the South, as an Irishman in London is of Ireland, but +not in it. I had a craving to see whether any of the social ashes +of slavery lived their wonted fires. Away down South was the real +object of my mission, and in pursuit of that mission I went on to +Richmond."</p> +<p>Mr. Sala proceeds to give a most amusing account of his ride +from New York to Richmond, with various criticisms of sleeping-car +accommodation, heartily endorsed by all American travelers who have +read them. Arriving at Richmond he asked the usual question: "Is +not the negro idle, thriftless and thievish?" From time immemorial +it has been asserted that the laws of meum and tuum have no meaning +for the colored man. It is a joke current in more than one American +city, that the police have standing orders to arrest every negro +seen carrying a turkey or a chicken along the street. In other +words, the funny man would have us believe that the innate love of +poultry in the Ethiopian's breast is so great that the chances are +against his having been possessed of sufficient force of character +to pass a store or market where any birds were exposed for sale and +not watched.</p> +<p>It is doubtless a libel on the colored race to state that even +the majority of its members are chicken thieves by descent rather +than inclination, just as it is a libel on their religion to +insinuate that a colored camp meeting is almost certain to involve +severe inroads into the chicken coops and roosts of the neighboring +farmers. Certain it is, however, that chicken stealing is one of +the most dangerous causes of backsliding on the part of colored +converts and enthusiastic singers of hymns in negro churches. The +case of the convert who was asked by his pastor, a week after his +admission to the church, if he had stolen a chicken since his +conversion, and who carefully concealed a stolen duck under his +coat while he assured the good man that he had not, is an +exaggerated one of course, but it is quoted as a good story in +almost every State and city in the Union.</p> +<p>Mr. Sala objects very much to judging a whole class of people by +a few street-corner or cross-road loungers. The negro he found to +be superstitious, just as we find them to-day. Even educated +negroes are apt to give credence to many stories which, on the face +of them, appear ridiculous. The words "Hoodoo" and "Mascot" have a +meaning among these people of which we have only a dim conception, +and when sickness enters a family the aid of an alleged doctor, who +is often a charlatan of the worst character, is apt to be sought. +It will take several generations to work out this characteristic, +and perhaps the greatest complaint the colored race has against +those who formerly held them in subjection, is the way in which +voodoo and supernatural stories were told ignorant slaves with a +view to frightening them into obedience, and inciting them to extra +exertions.</p> +<p>For absolute ignorance and apparent lack of human understanding, +the negro loafer to be found around some of our Southern towns and +depots may be quoted as a signal and quite amusing example. The +hat, as Mr. Sala humorously puts it, resembles an inverted coal +scuttle or bucket without handles, and pierced by many holes. It is +something like the bonnet of a Brobdingnagian Quakeress, huge and +flapped and battered, and fearful to look upon.</p> +<p>"Hang all this equipment," this interesting writer goes on to +say, "on the limbs of a tall negro of any age between sixteen and +sixty, and then let him stand close to the scaffold-like platform +of the depot shanty and let him loaf. His attitude is one of +complete and apathetic immobility. He does not grin. He may be +chewing, but he does not smoke. He does not beg; at least in so far +as I observed him he stood in no posture and assumed no gestures +belonging to the mendicant. He looms at you with a dull, stony, +preoccupied gaze, as though his thoughts were a thousand miles away +in the unknown land; while once in every quarter of an hour or so +he woke up to a momentary consciousness that he was a thing neither +rich nor rare, and so wondered how in thunder he got there. He is a +derelict, a fragment of flotsam and jetsam cast upon the not too +hospitable shore of civilization after the great storm had lashed +the Southern sea to frenzy and the ship of slavery had gone to +pieces forever. Possibly he is a good deal more human than he +looks, and if he chose to bestir himself and to address himself to +articulate discourse, could tell you a great many things about his +wants and wishes, his views and feelings on things in general +which, to you, might prove little more than amazing. As things go, +he prefers to do nothing and to proffer no kind of explanation as +to why he is standing there in a metaphorical mill pond very much +'longer than he oughter.'"</p> +<p>One turns with pleasure from the severe, but perhaps not +overdrawn, character sketch of the colored loafer, to the better +side of the modern negro. The intense desire for education, and the +keen recognition of the fact that knowledge is power, point to a +time when utter ignorance even among the negroes will be a thing of +the past. Prejudice is hard to fight against, and the colored man +has often a considerable amount of handicap to overcome. But just +as Mr. Sala found the typical negro, "standing in the mill pond +longer than he oughter," a sad memento of the past, so the traveler +can find many an intelligent and entertaining individual whose +accent betrays his color even in the darkest night, but whose cute +expressions and pleasant reminiscences go a long way towards +convincing even the sternest critic that the future is full of hope +for a race whose past has in it so little that is either pleasing +or satisfactory.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c15" id="c15">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>OUR NATIONAL PARK.</h4> +<br /> +<p>A Delightful Rhapsody--Early History of Yellowstone Park--A Fish +Story which Convulsed Congress--The First White Man to Visit the +Park--A Race for Life--Philosophy of the Hot Springs--Mount +Everts--From the Geysers to Elk Park--Some Old Friends and New +Ones--Yellowstone Lake--The Angler's Paradise.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Yellowstone Park is generally included in the list of the +wonders of the world. It is certainly unique in every respect, and +no other nation, modern or ancient, has ever been able to boast of +a recreation ground and park provided by nature and supplied with +such magnificent and extraordinary attractions and peculiarities. +It is a park upon a mountain, being more than 10,000 feet above the +level of the sea. Irregular in shape, it may be said to be about +sixty miles across on the average, and it contains an area of 3,500 +square miles.</p> +<p>Mr. Olin D. Wheeler, in an admirable treatise on this park, in +which he describes some of the many wonders in the marvelous region +traversed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, thus rhapsodizes:</p> +<p>"The Yellowstone Park! The gem of wonderland. The land of mystic +splendor. Region of bubbling caldron and boiling pool with fretted +rims, rivaling the coral in delicacy of texture and the rainbow in +variety of color; of steaming funnels exhaling into the etherine +atmosphere in calm, unruffled monotone and paroxysmal ejection, +vast clouds of fleecy vapor from the underground furnaces of the +God of Nature; sylvan parkland, where amidst the unsullied +freshness of flower-strewn valley and bountiful woodland, the +native fauna of the land browse in fearless joy and wander wild and +free, unfretted by sound of huntsman's horn, the long-drawn bay of +the hound, and the sharp crack of the rifle.</p> +<p>"Land of beauteous vale and laughing water, thundering cataract +and winding ravine; realm of the Ice King and the Fire King; +enchanted spot, where mountain and sea meet and kiss each other; +where the murmurs of the river, as it meanders through heaven-blest +valleys, becomes harsh and sullen amid the pine-covered hills which +darken and throttle its joyous song, until, uncontrollable, it +throws itself, a magnificent sheet of diamond spray and plunging +torrent, over precipices, and rolls along an emerald flood betwixt +cañon walls, such as the eye of mortal has seldom seen."</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100"><a href="images/m0377.jpg" +name="Falls" id="Falls"><img src="images/m0377t.jpg" alt= +"Yellowstone Falls" /></a> +<h4>Yellowstone Falls</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The history of this park is involved in a good deal of mystery. +About ninety years ago it was first discovered, but the information +brought back to civilization by the explorers was apparently so +exaggerated that it excited general ridicule. No one believed that +the wonders described really existed. Even later, when +corroborative evidence was forthcoming, skepticism continued. It +was almost as difficult then to make people believe the truth about +the hot springs and geysers, as it is now to make people believe +that it is possible for a man to stand on the edge of a hot spring, +catch the choicest kind of fish in the cool waters of the lake +surrounding him, and then cook his fish in the boiling water of the +spring without taking it off the hook, or walking a single +step.</p> +<p>This latter fish story has the peculiar feature of being true. +Several reliable men, including some who have not allowed the +ardent pursuit of Isaac Walton's pet pastime to blunt their +susceptibility of veracity, have performed this apparently +impossible feat, or have seen it done right before their very eyes. +A year or so ago, when an appropriation was asked for in Congress +for the further preservation of Yellowstone Park, a member made +this extraordinary possibility an argument in support of his plea. +A roar of laughter succeeded his recital, and when the orator +stopped to explain that he was merely recording an actual fact and +not telling a fish story, there seemed to be danger of wholesale +convulsion within the legislative walls. Several of the amused +Congressmen subsequently made inquiries and ascertained to their +astonishment that, instead of exaggeration, the half had not been +told, and that if a full summary of the attractions of Yellowstone +Park were to be written, the immense shelves of the Congressional +Library itself would scarcely hold the books that would have to be +written to contain it.</p> +<p>This little divergence is to afford an excuse for the +incredulity of our forefathers, who made sarcastic remarks as to +the powers of wild Western whisky, when pioneers returned from the +Rocky Mountains and told them that there existed away up in the +clouds an immense natural park, where beauty and weirdness could be +found side by side.</p> +<p>John Colter, or Coulter, is said to have been the first white +man who ever entered the natural portals of this glorious park. It +was in the early days of the century that this remarkable man had +his adventure. He was a member of the Lewis and Clark expedition, +which was sent out to explore the sources of the Missouri and +Columbia Rivers. He was naturally an adventurer, and a man who had +no idea of the meaning of the word "danger." The party had a +glimpse of Yellowstone Park, and Coulter was so enamored with the +hunting prospects that he either deserted from the expedition party +or obtained permission to remain behind.</p> +<p>However this may have been, it is certain that Coulter remained, +with but one companion, in the vicinity of the Jefferson Fork of +the Missouri River. According to fairly authentic records, he and +his companion were captured by hostile Blackfeet, who showed their +resentment at the intrusion upon the privacy of their domains by +depriving Coulter of his clothing, and Coulter's companion of his +life. The chronic adventurer, however, spent four years among the +more friendly Bannock Indians, who probably for centuries had lived +in or near the park. He had a very enjoyable time in the newly +discovered region, and his adventures crowded upon each other, one +after the other, with great rapidity. When at last he decided to +return to the abode of the white man, he took with him a fund of +recollection and incident of the most sensational character, and +before he had been at home with his own kindred a week, he had +earned the reputation of being a modern Ananias, ten times more +mendacious than the original article.</p> +<p>Twenty or thirty years elapsed before any reliable information +was obtained about the park. James Bridger, the daring scout and +mountaineer, went through the park more than once, and in his most +exaggerated rhapsodies told of its beauties and of its marvels. But +Bridger's stories had been tried in the balances and found wanting +before this, and nobody worried very much over them. In 1870, Dr. +F. V. Hayden and Mr. M. P. Langford explored the park on a more +rational basis, and gave to the world, in reliable shape, a resume +of their discoveries. Mr. Langford was himself an experienced +Western explorer. For many years he had desired to either verify or +disprove the so-called fairy tales which were going the rounds +concerning Yellowstone Park. He found a number of equally +adventurous gentlemen, including the Surveyor-General of Montana, +Mr. Washburn, after whom the expedition was generally known. In +1871, Dr. Hayden, who was then connected with the United States +Geological Survey Department, undertook a scientific exploration of +the park. He was accompanied by Mr. Langford, and the two men +together tore away the veil of mystery which had overhung the +wonderful resort among the hills, and gave to the country, for the +first time, a reliable description of one of the most magnificent +of its possessions.</p> +<p>The report was not confined to eulogy. It included drawings, +photographs and geological summaries, and wound up with an earnest +appeal to the National Government to reserve the beauty spot as a +National Park forever. Several men arose to endorse the request, +and in March, 1872, Congress passed an act dedicating Yellowstone +Park to the public for all time, declaring it to be a grand +national playground and a museum of unparalleled and incomparable +marvels.</p> +<p>Since that time the park has gradually become better known and +more highly appreciated. The Northern Pacific Railroad runs a +branch line to which the name of the park has been given, and which +connects Livingston, Montana, with Cinnabar, at the northern edge +of the park. The road is about fifty miles long, and the scenery +through which it passes is astounding in its nature.</p> +<p>From Cinnabar the tourist is driven in large stages throughout +the park. If at all reminiscent by nature, he thinks about the +experiences of Coulter, to whom we have already referred as the +pioneer white man of Yellowstone. Early in the century the park was +occupied by Indians, who had scarcely come in contact with white +men, and who had not learned that in the unavoidable conflict +between races, the weaker must inevitably succumb to the stronger. +Around the limpid streams and at the borders of the virgin forests, +containing untold wealth, tents made of skin drawn over boughs cut +roughly from trees, could be seen in every direction. All around +there were rough-looking, utterly uncivilized Indians, who were +carrying out their usual occupation of doing nothing, and doing it +with exceptional ability.</p> +<p>The women or squaws were more active, but frequently paused in +their work to look at the unfortunate Coulter, who, deprived of his +clothing and absolutely naked, was waiting, bound hand and foot, +for the fate that he had every reason to believe awaited him. His +only companion had been killed the day before, and he expected +every minute to meet the same fate. According to his own +description of what followed, strategy saved his life. An Indian, +sent for the purpose, asked him if he could run fast. Knowing +himself to be an athlete of no mean ability, but guessing the +object of the question, he assured the Indian that he was not a +speedy runner. The answer had the effect he anticipated.</p> +<p>His thongs were almost immediately cut, and he was taken out on +the open prairie, given a trifling start, and then told that he +might save himself if he could. Coulter had run many a fast mile +before, but he never ran as on this occasion. He knew that behind +him there were, among the indolent young Indians, many who could +run with great speed, and his only hope lay in getting to cover +ahead of these. Every long stride meant that much space between him +and death, and every stride he took was the longest in his power. +Again and again he looked around, only to discover to his +astonishment that he had but just held his own. At last, however, +all his pursuers except one were tired of the pursuit, and when he +found this to be the case, he turned like a stag at bay and +overpowered him.</p> +<p>Then seeing that others of the Indians were taking up the chase, +after a brief rest, Coulter made another great run, plunged into +the river in front of him, and finally entered the labyrinth of +forests and craters now known to the world as Yellowstone Park. +Here, if his story is to be believed, he succeeded in making for +himself clothing of some character out of the skins of beasts that +he shot, and finally he fell into the hands of less hostile red +men.</p> +<p>So much of the early days of Yellowstone, and of the +reminiscences which a first visit naturally conjure up. The park as +it exists to-day is overcrowded with modern interests, and one only +refers to these reminiscences by way of contrast. There are in the +park at least 100 geysers, nearly 4,000 springs, and an immense +number of miniature parks, large and small rivers, and other +marvels.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0359.jpg" name="Park" id="Park"><img src= +"images/m0359t.jpg" alt="In and Around Yellowstone Park" /></a> +<h4>In and Around Yellowstone Park</h4> +</div> +<p>The park is about equi-distant from the cities of Portland and +St. Paul, and so many people have been attracted to it in recent +years that a large number of very fine hotels have been built at a +great expense. The hotels are open about four months a year, and +the help to run them is brought from different States. The expenses +are naturally heavy, and hence the hotel charges are not nominal, +although the tourist can generally limit the expenses incurred to +the bulk of his pocket-book, should he so desire. If he includes in +his calculations the absolutely free sights that he witnesses, the +expense of a trip is certainly moderate, and ought not to be taken +into much consideration.</p> +<p>The Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the leading sources of +attraction of the park, a tour of which is something no American of +means can afford to miss. The springs are very hard to describe. +They consist of a number of irregular terraces, some as large as +five acres in extent, and others very small. Some are a few feet +high, and others stand forty or sixty feet above the one next +below. Few people really understand what these springs are, or how +the terraces are formed. One authority of eminence says that the +rocks underlying the particular point are calcareous in character, +consisting mainly of carbonated lime, which is somewhat soluble in +percolating earth water. The hot subterranean water dissolves a +large amount of mineral matter in passing through the earth, which +it deposits on the surface in passing through the air. By this +process walls, embankments and terraces are built up, and as the +minerals through which the water passes are varying greatly in +color, so the deposits left on the surface are some of them red, +other pink and others black, with yellows, greens, blues, +chocolates and mixed colors abounding in immense numbers, sometimes +harmonizing beautifully and sometimes presenting the most +astounding contrasts.</p> +<p>The water in the springs is not warm, but hot, and hence the +name. Frequently the temperature exceeds 160 degrees, in which case +the coloring matter seems to be washed out, and the terraces +present a white appearance. On other occasions, where the +temperature is less severe, the varying hues already referred to +abound on every side. Sometimes this whiteness, or bleached-out +appearance, is astounding in its effects. The true artist will +stand for hours gazing upon it, and wishing that he could +reproduce, ever so inaccurately, the intense beauties which +surround him.</p> +<p>Behind the springs, and blocking up the view on the south, is +the mountain known as Bunsen Peak, the highest within the range of +the eye. Just across the open space, in front of the hotel at the +springs, are the quarters of the National soldiers who patrol the +park, and, to a certain extent at any rate, protect it from the +vandal and the purloiner.</p> +<p>In an admirable description of this scene contained in "Indian +Land and Wonderland," a very delightful story is told of the long, +low, flat and lava-capped mountain known as Mount Everts, in honor +of Mr. T. C. Everts of Helena. Few know the story upon which the +mountain owes its name, which is given as follows:</p> +<p>Among the members of the first party that ever explored +Yellowstone Park were Messrs. M. P. Langford, S. T. Hauser and T. +C. Everts. There was also a military escort under Lieutenant Doane. +The party proceeded up the Yellowstone River to the Grand +Cañon, thence across to Yellowstone Lake, around its eastern +edge to the southern end, whence turning west they followed down +the Firehole River through the Upper Geyser Basin to the Madison +River. Following this river out from the park, they returned to +Western civilization--all but one of them.</p> +<p>On the nineteenth day out, September 9th, when moving across the +country bordering the southern shore of the lake, Mr. Everts became +lost. The traveling here was difficult, owing to fallen timber, +rugged heights and no trails, and he was not missed until camp was +made at night. Mr. Everts was not seen again for thirty-seven days, +when he was found by two mountaineers on the verge of what is now +known as Mount Everts, perfectly exhausted, and partly deranged +through exposure and suffering. On the very first day of his +absence his horse, left standing and unfastened, with all the man's +arms and camp equipments attached, became frightened and ran away. +Everts was near-sighted, had not even a knife for use or defense, +and only a field glass to assist him in escaping. He first managed +to reach Heart Lake, the source of Snake River. Here he remained +for twelve days, sleeping close by the Hot Springs to keep from +freezing. His food was thistle roots, boiled in the springs. One +night he was forced into a tree by a mountain lion, and kept there +all night.</p> +<p>Finally, he bethought himself of the lenses of his field +glasses, and thus was enabled to kindle fires. He wandered all +along the western side of the lake and down the Yellowstone to +where he was providentially found. He gave the story of his +terrible experience in the old "Scribner's Magazine," since become +"The Century," and a thrilling tale it makes. In a country filled +with a network of streams, abundantly supplied with animal life for +food, gorged with timber for fuel, the man nearly froze and starved +and perished from thirst. Twice he was five days without food; once +three days without water. It was late in the season, and the storms +swept down on him and chilled him to the bone; the snows kept him +prisoner in camp, or, when on his painful marches, blocked his +progress.</p> +<p>Naturally, he lost strength, and became hourly in danger of +succumbing to the vast difficulties which confronted him. His +sufferings were increased by the fear which was created by a large +mountain lion, which got on his trail and followed him, evidently +with a view to making him a feature of the menu of his next meal. +It seems incredible that Mr. Everts should ever have escaped with +his life. Fortune, however, came to his rescue at last. He was +rescued and nursed back to life by good friends. To the plateau on +which he was found, his name was given, although there are few who +will remember the significance of the name.</p> +<p>Norris Geyser is another of the almost miraculous features of +the park. The basin of the geyser has been described as a weird, +uncanny place, and the words seem well chosen. Of vegetation there +is practically none, because the underground heat keeps the ground +always warm, and steam breaks out into the atmosphere at several +points. The general aspect is drear and desolate, gray and dull, +and yet there is something about it beautiful as well as +uncanny.</p> +<p>A geyser is always a source of wonder. The word is of Icelandic +derivation, and signifies gushing. As applied to phenomena such as +we are now describing, its applicability is good, for, from the +mouth of the geysers, there rushes from time to time an immense +mass of boiling water and steam, creating a disturbance of no +ordinary character. It is assumed that the water hurled into the +air to a great height while at boiling point, has risen to the +surface through masses of lava, which are reminiscent of volcanic +ages far beyond the memory of mankind. The mystery of geological +formation is too great to be gone into in a work of this character, +but the bare contemplation of geysers, such as are seen at +Yellowstone Park, reminds one of the wonders deeply hidden in the +bowels of the earth, unappreciated and unknown by and to 99 per +cent. of the human race.</p> +<p>At the Norris Geyser basin the noise is extraordinary, and +people who are superstitiously inclined are awed at the rumblings +and grumblings which seem to issue from the bowels of the earth. +Eruptions of hot water and steam at irregular intervals burst +forth, and the very road which crosses the adjoining plain has been +bleached to almost perfect whiteness by the vapors. The crust of +ground is very thin all around here, and indiscriminate exploring +is dangerous. To slip through the crust into the boiling water +beneath would inevitably involve being scalded to death, and the +man who allows the guide to show him where to tread exhibits the +greater wisdom.</p> +<p>In direct contrast to this basin is the Elk Park. Yellowstone is +celebrated among other things for being the home of an immense +number of the most remarkable specimens of North American animals. +The Government herd of buffalo in the park is of countless value, +because it is really the only complete representation at the +present time of the practically extinct species of flesh and hide +producing animals which used to graze by the million on the +prairie. The buffalo are comparatively tame. Most of them were born +within the confines of the park, and seem to have realized that the +existence of their kind in perpetuity is one of the greatest +desires of the Government. There are a number of bears around as +well, but they have lost their viciousness, and enjoy life very +hugely under somewhat changed conditions. They seldom hurt any one, +but prowl around the hotels at night, and by eating up the scraps +and leavings solve the garbage problem in a satisfactory +manner.</p> +<p>Deer, elk, antelope and mountain sheep climb the mountains, and +very frequently find their way into Elk Park or Gibbon Meadow. This +is an exceptionally desirable wintering ground, because it is +surrounded by hills and mountains which keep off the worst of the +winds, and there is, moreover, a perpetual spring of pure water. +The meadow is probably the prettiest spot in the entire park. There +is less of the awful and more of the picturesque than can be found +elsewhere, and it is, in many respects, an oasis in a vast and +somewhat dreary expanse of land.</p> +<p>Golden Gate is another of the exquisite spots every visitor to +Yellowstone Park seeks and finds. To reach the Golden Gate one must +be a great climber, for it is high up, and the road to it is built +along the edge of a cliff, which, in places, seems to be absolutely +perpendicular. The gate is, however, worth reaching, and one is not +surprised to hear that as much as $14,000 were spent in cutting out +a single mile of the road to it through the rock.</p> +<p>Leaving the Golden Gate, and continuing the tour of inspection, +a valley of large dimensions is seen. The contrast between the rich +green of almost faultless verdure, and the dreariness of the rocks +left behind, is striking. It would seem as though nature had built +up an immense barrier between the weird and the natural, so that +the one could not affect the other. The Bible speaks of the intense +comfort of the shade of a great rock in a dry and thirsty land. A +sensation of equal, if not greater, relief is experienced in +Yellowstone Park when one leaves the grand, death-like desolation +around the Hot Springs, and encounters the exquisite beauty of +shrub land and timber but a few paces away. The groves of trees are +in themselves sources of great delight, and also of immense wealth. +Fortunately, they will be preserved in perpetuity for the American +people. The lumber king cannot get here. His ravages must be +confined to other regions.</p> +<p>The valley into which the tourist has entered takes its name +from the Swan Lake, a very delightful inland mountain scene. The +lake is about two miles from Golden Gate. It is not a very large +body of water, but its rippling surface extracts expressions of +admiration from all who behold it. It has been described as a +demure looking sheet of water, and there is something about the +appearance of the lake which seems to justify the peculiar +definition. The cañon forming the valley is like everything +else in Yellowstone Park--a little out of the ordinary. On the one +side there are lofty mountains, with eminences and peaks of various +formation and height, while in the distance the great Electric Peak +can be easily seen. We have already spoken of Yellowstone Park as +being about 10,000 feet above the sea level. Electric Peak, well +described as the sentinel of the park, is more than 11,000 feet +high. Viewed from a distance, or along the line of the valley, it +is calculated to excite both admiration and awe.</p> +<p>Willow Creek Park, or Willow Park, as it is sometimes called, +lies due south. It takes its name from the immense growth of willow +bushes which hide the ground from view, and monopolize the scenery +and groundwork entirely. None of these bushes can claim the right +to be called trees, as the average height is inconsiderable. But +they make up in density what they lack in altitude. The peculiar +green of the willow is the predominating color, without any +variation of any kind. The idea conveyed to the mind is of a huge +green carpet or rug, and when the wind blows freely across the +valley, it divides up the bushes into little ridges or furrows, +which add to the uniqueness of the scene. Springs of remarkably +pure water, many of them possessed of medicinal power, abound in +this neighborhood, and tourists slake an imaginary thirst with much +interest at different ones of these.</p> +<p>The Obsidian Creek runs slowly through this valley. Obsidian +Cliff is the next object of special interest which is witnessed. It +is half a mile long and from 150 to 200 feet high. The southern end +is formed of volcanic glass, or obsidian, as true a glass as any +artificially produced. The roadway at its base is constructed +across the talus, and is emphatically a glass road. Huge fragments +of obsidian, black and shining, some of it streaked with white +seams, line the road. Small pieces are also plentiful. This flow of +glass came from a high plateau to the east-northeast. Numerous vent +pits, or apparent craters, have been discovered on this plateau. +Mr. J. P. Iddings, of the Unites States Geological Survey, who has +made a special study of Obsidian Cliff, contributes to the survey +report for 1885-86 a paper that has in it much that is of interest +to the unscientific mind.</p> +<p>The Lower Geyser Basin is in some respects more pleasing than +the Norris, although the desolation is perhaps even more apparent. +People who have seen districts in which salt is made out of brine +extracted from wells, state that the appearance in the Lower Geyser +Basin is very similar to what is seen around manufacturing +districts of that character. This basin is in the valley of the +Firehole River, a strangely named stream, of a very beautiful +character. In the basin itself the branches of the Firehole unite, +and with the Gibbon River form one of the three sources of the +Missouri, called the Madison, after the President of that name. The +Fountain Geyser is the largest in the neighborhood, and is one of +the best in the park. It is very regular in its eruptions, and +seldom fails to perform on time for the benefit of the onlooker. It +sends an immense volume of water into the air, and resembles a +fountain very closely. Its basin is very interesting, and gives a +good example of the singular deposits left by a geyser.</p> +<p>When the fountain is busy throwing out its volumes of water, the +appearance is very peculiar. Little notice is given of an eruption, +which takes place suddenly, although at stated intervals. All at +once the watcher is rewarded for his patience by having the +stillness changed into activity of the most boisterous character. +The water is hurled upwards in a mass of frothing, boiling and +foaming crystals. The actual height varies, but frequently goes as +far as thirty feet. In a moment the wall of water becomes compact, +oblong and irregular. Crystal effects are produced, varying +according to the time of day and the amount of light, but always +delightful and peculiar.</p> +<p>Close at hand are the Mammoth Paint Pots, in the center of the +Firehole Geyser. We can explain the appearance of the Paint Pot or +Mud Bath much more easily than we can account for the phenomenon. +It is well named, because it resembles a succession of paint pots +of enormous size more than anything else that the imagination can +liken it to. The basin measures forty by sixty feet, with a mud +boundary three or four feet high on three sides of it. The contents +of the basin have kept scientists wondering for years. The +substance is white, looking very much like ordinary paint, but, +unlike paint, it is constantly in motion, and the agitation is so +persistent that an idea is given that the Paint Pot's basin is the +bed of a crater. The continual bubbling and vibration is very +interesting in its effects, and the noise it makes is quite +peculiar, not unlike a subdued hiss or a badly executed +stage-whisper. Mixed among the white substance is a quantity of +silicious clay of all sorts and conditions of color. This produces +a variation in the appearance, but is merely in addition to what is +otherwise marvelous in the extreme. Pearl gray, with terra cotta, +red and green tints is the basic color of this boiling, seething +mass, which seems to be continually at unrest and in a course of +worry.</p> +<p>The Excelsior Geyser is the most conspicuous feature of the +Midway Basin, a collection of hot springs and pools. They are +situated in the Midway Basin, and were originally called Cliff +Caldron. Excelsior Geyser is in a continual state of anarchy, +without law, government or regulation. It does just as it likes and +when it likes. It seldom performs when wanted to, but when it does +break out into a condition of fermentation, the effect is very +magnificent. As one writer puts it, the beauties and exhibitions of +this geyser are as far superior to those of all the others as the +light of the sun seems to that of the moon.</p> +<p>The geyser was for years regarded as the grandest spring in the +park, before its exceptionally great features prevailed or became +apparent. In the years 1881-82, the eruptions from this geyser +became so terrific that it spouted water as high as 250 feet, and +converted the generally inoffensive Firehole River into a torrent +of storming water. Rocks of large size and heavy enough to be very +dangerous were hurled headlong from within the mysterious confines +of the earth, and were dashed around in all directions. For miles +the terrific noise could be heard, and people who had been waiting +for a phenomenon of this character, hurried across country to +witness it. It is only now and again that a phenomenon of this kind +is repeated, and the most skillful geologists are unable to give us +any adequate forecasts as to when the next performance will take +place.</p> +<p>Rehearsals seem always in progress. Vast masses of steam rise +from the crater or hole. Many people crowd to the edge of the basin +and strive to penetrate into the mysteries of subterranean +happenings. The day may come when some scientific method of seeing +through smoke and steam and enduring scalding heat without +difficulty may be devised. Until then the mystery must remain +unsolved.</p> +<p>In exact contrast with the irregular and spasmodic action of the +Excelsior, is the methodical, persevering action of Old Faithful. +This is another of the great and popular geysers of Yellowstone +Park. It is so uniform in its appearance that a man can keep his +watch regulated by it. Every sixty-five minutes the well-named +geyser gives forth a peculiar noise to warn the world that it is +about to perform. Then for about five minutes a vast stream of +water and steam is hurled into the air to the height of about 150 +feet. The mass of boiling water measures six feet in diameter, and +the volume discharged exceeds a hundred thousand gallons each hour. +Day by day and hour, for nearly twenty years, this industrious +geyser has regularly done its duty, and afforded entertainment for +visitors. No one knows how long prior to that time it commenced +operations, or for how long it will continue.</p> +<p>Leaving for the moment the consideration of geysers and hot +springs and other wonders of this character, the sightseer gets a +view of a very different nature. At Keppler's Cascades the stage +coach generally stops to enable passengers to walk to the edge of +the cliff and watch the cascades and foaming river in the black +cañon below. Then the journey proceeds through the Firehole +Valley, and through leafy forests and open glades, until the narrow +and tortuous cañon of Spring Creek is reached. The scenery +here is decidedly unconventional and wild.</p> +<p>We soon reach the summit of the Continental Divide. Now the +outlook is much expanded, and it becomes more majestic and +dignified. The mountains overhang the roadway on one side and drop +far below on the other. Heavy, shaggy forests cover the slopes and +peaks, while tiny island parks, as it were, and cheerful openings +are occasionally seen. The road winds about the mountain-flanks, +now climbing up, now descending; the whole aspect of nature grows +more grand, more austere; the air grows more rarified, and one +becomes more and more exalted in spirit. Occasionally the mountains +break away and you obtain a view far out beyond the narrow limits +round about. Distant mountains are seen, and the feeling that there +are nothing but mountain-walls about you impresses itself strongly +upon one, and it is just about true. After several miles of such +riding, and when you have begun to imagine that nothing finer can +come, the road leads up to a point that, almost before you know it, +simply drives from your thoughts all else seen on this ride.</p> +<p>It is a wonderful picture, and produces a state of exultation +that to some must seem almost too strong to endure. The mountains, +which rise high above, stretch also far below, and in every +direction are at their very best. Proud and regal in their strength +and bearing, they are still, from summit to the depths, heavily +covered with the primeval forest. It would seem as if they really +knew what a view was here unfolded, and to rejoice in the grandeur +of the scene. Like a thread, you can trace the turns and lines of +the road along which the stage has come. But that which adds the +softer, more beautiful element to a picture otherwise almost +overpowering in its grandeur, and withal stern and unyielding, is +seen through a break or portal off to the south.</p> +<p>Far away, far below, lies a portion of Shoshone Lake. Like a +sleeping babe in its mother's lap, nestles this tiny lakelet babe +in the mountains. It shines like a plate of silver or beautiful +mirror. It is a gem worth crossing a continent to see, especially +as there runs between the lake and the point of view a little +valley dressed in bright, grassy green as a kind of foreground in +the rear. There is thus a silvered lake, a lovely valley, with +bright and warm green shades, and rich, dark-black forests in the +rear. No one can gaze upon such a combination and contrast without +being impressed, and without recognizing the sublime beauty and +grandeur of the park and its surroundings.</p> +<p>Yellowstone Lake is another of the extraordinary attractions of +our great National Park. It is described as the highest inland sea +in the world, and more than 7,000 feet above the sea level. It is, +really, nearly 8,000 feet above the sea, and its icy cold water +covers an area some thirty miles in length and about half as wide +or about 300 square miles. This glorious inland ocean is perched up +at the summit of the Rocky Mountains, just where no one would +expect to find it. Several islands of varying sizes are dotted over +the surface of the water, which at times is as smooth as a little +mill pond, and at others almost as turbulent as the sea. The shores +are entirely irregular in their formation, and Promontory Point +extends out into the water a great distance, forming one of the +most peculiar inland peninsulas in the entire world. Along the +southern shore, inlets and bays are very numerous, some of them +natural in character, and others full of evidence of brisk, and +even terrific, volcanic action.</p> +<p>From the peculiar rocks and eminences along the shore, +reflections are cast into the water of an almost indescribable +character. They are varied in nature and color, and, like the lake +itself, differ from anything to be seen elsewhere. Another unique +feature of this lake, and one that has to be seen to be understood, +is the presence on the banks, and even out in the lake itself, of +hot springs and geysers full of boiling water and steam. Some of +these springs have wide and secure edges, or banks, on which a man +can stand and fish. Then, on his right hand, he has the icy-cold +water of the lake, from which he can obtain trout and other fish, +until he begins to dream of a fisherman's paradise. Dr. Hayden, the +explorer, already referred to, was the first man to take advantage +of the opportunity and to cook his fish unhooked in the boiling +water to his left, merely making a half turn in order to do so. +When the Professor first mentioned this fact, he was good humoredly +laughed at, but, as stated in an earlier part of this chapter, the +possibility has been so clearly demonstrated, that people have long +since admitted as a possibility what they had first denounced as an +utter absurdity.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0364.jpg" name="Marvel" id="Marvel"><img src= +"images/m0364t.jpg" alt="A Marvel of Magnificence" /></a> +<h4>A Marvel of Magnificence</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c16" id="c16">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THE HEROES OF THE IRON HORSE.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Honor to Whom Honor is Due--A Class of Men Not Always Thoroughly +Appreciated at their Worth--An Amateur's Ride on a Flying +Locomotive--From Twelve Miles an Hour to Six Times that Speed--The +Signal Tower and the Men who Work in it--Stealing a Train--A Race +with Steam--Stones about Bewitched Locomotives and Providential +Escapes.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>No one who has not given the matter special consideration has +the remotest idea of the magnitude and importance of the railroad +system of the United States. Nor has any one who has not studied +the statistics bearing on the question the faintest conception of +the cost of the roads built and in operation. The cost in dollars +and cents for a mile of track has been ascertained to a fractional +point. Expert accountants have figured out to a hundredth part of a +cent the cost of hauling a passenger or a ton of merchandise any +given distance. There are even tables in existence showing the +actual expense incurred in stopping a train, while such details as +the necessary outlay in wages, fuel, repairs, etc., have received +the attention which the magnitude of the interests involved +deserves.</p> +<p>But the cost in human life and suffering of the great railroad +system of the United States is quite another matter, and one that +does not come within the scope of the calculations of accountants, +expert or otherwise. It has been said repeatedly that a man is +safer in a railroad train than on the streets. In other words, the +percentage of death and serious injury is said by statisticians to +be lower among men habitually traveling than among people who are +classed as stay-at-homes, and who seldom take a railroad journey. +But while this is doubtless correct, so far as passengers are +concerned, the rule does not apply to railroad employes, and those +who by their never-wavering care and energy protect the life and +limbs of passengers, and make railroad traveling safe as well as +comfortable.</p> +<p>A celebrated divine, when preaching on the subject of faith, +once took a railroad journey for an illustration. As he pointed +out, with much eloquence and force, there could be no more +realistic personification of faith than the man who peacefully lay +down to sleep at night in his berth of a Pullman car, relying +implicitly upon the railroad men to avert the thousands of dangers +which had to be encountered during the still hours of the +night.</p> +<p>Whenever there is a strike, a great deal is written about the +men employed in various capacities by railroads, and every misdeed +is exaggerated, and every indiscretion magnified into a crime. But +very little is said on the other side of the question. The men to +whom railroad travelers, and especially those who ride at night, +commend their safety, are worked to the full extent of their +powers, and are paid very small wages, when the nature of their +duties and the hours they have to make are taken into +consideration.</p> +<p>The commendation of these men takes the form of deeds, rather +than words, and while so few have ever stopped to consider the +loyalty and devotion of the poorly paid and hard-worked railroad +man, every traveler who enters a railroad car pays silent tribute +to their reliability. The passenger, as he lounges comfortably in a +luxurious seat, or sleeps peacefully in his state-room, thinks +nothing of the anxiety and annoyances of the men in charge of the +train, or of those who are responsible for the track being kept +clear, and proper orders being given to the engineer.</p> +<p>This official is a man of many hardships and dangers. To him is +entrusted daily the lives of hundreds of human beings. He knows not +how many, but he knows that the slightest error on his part will +hurl perhaps ten, perhaps twenty, and perhaps fifty human beings +into eternity, besides maiming for life two or three times as many +more. He knows, too, that not only is he responsible for the safety +of the men, women and children who are riding behind him, but also +for the occupants of other trains on the same track. He knows +exactly where he must run on to a side track to allow the express +in the other direction to pass, and he knows just where he must +slacken speed in order to get safely around a dangerous curve, or +cross a bridge which is undergoing repairs, or which is not quite +as substantial as it would be if he, instead of millionaire +railroad directors, had the control of the bridge construction and +repair fund.</p> +<p>To catch an idea of the responsibility of a locomotive engineer, +it is necessary to ride a hundred miles or so in an engine. The +author was given this privilege on a bleak, frosty day, early last +winter. He was told by the officials that he took the ride at his +own risk, and as a matter of personal favor, and that he must not +interfere with the engineer or fireman in the execution of their +duties. The guest was received kindly by both engineer and fireman, +and was given a seat whence he could see along expanse of track +over which the locomotive had to draw the train of cars. To a +novice the sensation of a first ride on a locomotive is a very +singular one, and to say that there is no tinge of fear +intermingled with the excitement and pleasure, would be to make a +statement not borne out by fact. On the occasion referred to, the +train was a special one, carrying a delegation half way across the +continent. It was about fifteen minutes late, and in order to make +the run to the next division point it was necessary to maintain an +average speed of more than forty-five miles an hour. As is almost +always the case, when there is need for exceptional hurry, all +sorts of trifling delays occurred, and several precious minutes +were wasted before a start could be made.</p> +<p>Finally, the conductor gives the necessary word, the engineer +pulls the lever, and the irregular passenger finds for the first +time in his life how much more difficult it is to start a +locomotive than he ever imagined.</p> +<p>First, there is a distinct tremble on the huge locomotive. Then +there comes a loud hiss, with a heavy escape of steam, as the huge +pistons tug and pull at the heavy wheels, which slip round and +round and fail to grip the rail. Then, as gradually scientific +power overcomes brute force, there is a forward motion of a +scarcely perceptible character. Then, as the sand-box is brought +into requisition, the wheels distinctly bite the rail, and, in the +words of the race-track, "They're off." For a few seconds progress +is very slow, indeed. Then the good work of the trusted locomotive +becomes apparent, and before we are well out of the yards quite a +good speed is being obtained. The fireman is busy ringing the bell, +and the engineer, from time to time, adds to the warning noise by +one of those indescribable toots made only by a steam engine.</p> +<p>Now we are outside the city limits, and the train is making +excellent time. We take out our watch and carefully time the speed +between two mile-posts, to ascertain that about seventy seconds +were occupied in covering the distance. Regardless of our +instructions we mention this fact to the fireman, who has just +commenced to throw a fresh supply of coal on to the roaring fire, +adding a word of congratulation.</p> +<p>"Why, that's nothing," he replies, laughing, "we are going up +grade now. Wait until we get along the level or go down grade, and +we will show you a mile away inside of sixty."</p> +<p>We are not particularly glad to hear this. Already the +locomotive is rocking a good deal more than is quite pleasant to +the uninitiated, and the contrast between the hard seat and the +pleasant one at our disposal in the Pullman car is becoming more +and more obvious. Just as we are wondering how it will be possible +to preserve one's equilibrium while going around a curve in the +distance, a cow strays sheepishly on to the track, apparently some +200 yards ahead. The engineer plays a tune with his whistle, and +the cow proceeds to trot down the track in front of us. That +singularly misnamed appendage, the cow-catcher, strikes her +amidships. She is thrown twenty feet in the air, and all that is +left of her rolls into the ditch by the side of the track.</p> +<p>For the moment we had forgotten George Stephenson's reply to the +member of the British Parliament, who asked him what would happen +in the event of a cow getting in front of one of the trains George +was proposing to run, if necessary powers could be obtained. His +reply, which has long since become historical, was that it would be +very bad for the cow. We remembered this, and agreed with the +pioneer railroad man when we saw the unfortunate bovine turn a +quadruple somersault and terminate her existence in less than a +second. But a moment previously we had been wondering what would +happen when the inevitable collision took place.</p> +<p>The fireman observes that the occurrence has somewhat unnerved +us, and in a good-natured way assures us that a little thing of +that kind doesn't amount to anything. It is pretty bad, he says, +when a bunch of cows get on a track, and he remembers once, several +years ago, having a train stopped out in the Far West by a bunch of +fat steers, which blocked up the track. "But," he adds, by way of +parenthesis, "that was on a very poor road with a broken-down +freight locomotive. If we had had "87," with a full head of steam +on, we could have got through all right, even if we had to overload +the market with beef."</p> +<p>Now the train rushes around a curve in one direction and now in +another. The engineer never relaxes his vigilance, and, although he +affects to make light of the responsibility, and assures his +somewhat nervous passenger that there is no danger of any kind, his +actions do not bear out his words. We are running special, a little +ahead of the mid-day express schedule, and at every station there +are waiting passengers who herald our approach with delight, and, +gathering together their packages, advance to the edge of the +platform evidently supposing we are going to stop for them. That we +are to dash through the station at a speed of fifty or sixty miles +an hour, does not occur to them as a remote possibility, and the +looks of astonishment which greet us as we rush past the platform +are amusing. Finally, we reach a long stretch of level track, where +the rails are laid as straight as an arrow for apparently several +miles ahead.</p> +<p>"Now's your time, if you want to take a good mile," says the +friendly fireman.</p> +<p>We take his advice, and by aid of a stop watch, especially +borrowed for the occasion, we ascertain the fact that a mile is +covered in fifty-two seconds. The next mile is two seconds slower, +but the speed is more than maintained on the third mile. Reduced to +ordinary speed figures, this means that we are making something +like seventy miles an hour, and doing vastly better than was even +anticipated. Our good work is, however, interfered with by the +sudden application of the air brakes and the shutting off of steam +as we approach a little station, where the signal is against us. A +change in train orders proves to be the cause of the hindrance to +our progress, and the engineer grumbles somewhat as he finds he +will have to wait at a station some twenty miles further on, +provided a train coming in the opposite direction is not on the +side track before he gets there. The execution of this order +involves a delay of five or ten minutes, but when we have the line +clear again such good time is made that we accomplish our task and +pull into the depot, where locomotives are to be changed, on time +to the second.</p> +<p>Such is a ride on a locomotive in broad daylight. At night of +course the dangers and risks are increased ten-fold. The head-light +pierces into the inky darkness, and frequently exaggerates the size +of objects on and near the track. The slightest misunderstanding, +the most trivial misinterpretation of an order, the least +negligence on the part of any one connected with or employed by the +road, may involve a wreck, to the total destruction of the train +and its passengers, and the engineer feels every moment the full +extent of his responsibilities and the nature of the risks he +runs.</p> +<p>These responsibilities are increased ten-fold by the great speed +necessary in these days of haste and hurry. Few of our +great-grandfathers lived to see steam applied as a motive power for +locomotion. Most of our grandparents remember the first train being +run in this country. Many of those who read these lines can +recollect when a philosopher placed himself on record that a speed +of twenty miles was impossible, because, even if machinery could be +constructed to stand the wear and tear, the motion would be so +rapid that the train men and passengers would succumb to apoplexy +or some other terrible and fatal malady.</p> +<p>It is less than seventy years ago since the time that the +so-called crank, George Stephenson, ventured modestly to assert +that his little four-and-a-half-ton locomotive, "The Rocket," was +actually capable of whirling along one to two light carriages at +the astounding velocity of twelve miles an hour. He was laughed to +scorn by the highly intelligent British Parliamentary Committee +engaged in the investigation of his new method of land traveling. +At the present day, with regularly scheduled trains on many lines +thundering across wide continents tirelessly hour after hour, at +the rate of a mile a minute, it is the deliberate judgment of the +most conservative students of railway science that the ultimate +limit of speed is still in the far distance, and that 100 miles per +hour will not be deemed an extraordinary rate of travel by the time +the first decade of the Twentieth Century shall have closed.</p> +<p>It is true that railroad schedules seldom call for mile-a-minute +traveling, but the engineer is called upon very frequently to go +even faster. The majority of people, even the most intelligent +among those who habitually travel, obtain their conceptions of +speed from the figures of the time-table, forgetting that in nearly +every instance considerable portions of the route must be traversed +at much more than the average speed required to cover the total +distance in the schedule time. There are very few, if any, of the +fast express trains which do not, on some part of each "run," reach +or exceed a speed of a mile a minute. Yet, by reason of superior +roadway and well constructed cars, the accelerated velocity is +unnoticed; while running at from sixty to seventy miles an hour the +passenger calmly peruses his paper or book, children play in the +aisle, and a glass brim full of water may be carried from one end +to the other of the smoothly rolling coach without the spilling of +a drop. All the while the nerves of those in charge of the train +are kept at high tension, and, oblivious as the passengers may be +as to the danger, actual and imaginary, the risks incurred are +never for a moment lost sight of by the two men on the +locomotive.</p> +<p>The man in the signal tower has an equal responsibility. In some +respects the burden upon his shoulders is even greater, because he +has the fate of perhaps a score of trains in his hands, with the +lives of hundreds of passengers. Now and then, when the wrong lever +has been pulled and a train is wrecked, we hear of a signal man +sleeping at his post, but few of us stop to think how many thousand +times a day the right lever is pulled, and how exceptional is the +lapse from duty. There are heroes of the sea, and there are heroes +of the battle-field, but there are ten times as many heroes who +perform their deeds of heroism on locomotives, in switch and signal +towers, and in railroad yards. It may not be fashionable to compare +these savers of human life with those who destroy life on the +battle-field, but the valor and endurance of the former is at least +as conspicuous and meritorious as the daring and suffering of the +latter.</p> +<p>In "Scribner's Magazine" there recently appeared a most graphic +description of a two-storied, square signal tower at "Sumach +Junction."</p> +<p>"This tower," says the contributor to the magazine named, "had +two rows of windows on all sides and stood at the intersection of +branches. At this point the trunk line resolved itself from four +tracks into two, and here the gravel track, which looked as if it +had been laid by a palsied contractor, left the main line and +respectability behind, and hobbled out of sight behind the signal +station with an intoxicated air. Beneath the tower, to the right +hand, a double-tracked branch tapped a fertile country beyond the +sand hills. And beneath the signal tower, to the left, a +single-tracked branch, only a mile long, brought South Sumach, one +of those tiresome towns that manufacture on water-power, in touch +with the middle man. This petty branch (as if the case had been +with petty people), made more trouble than all the rest of the +lines put together. The signal man found this out.</p> +<p>"So Sumach Junction had its place in the world, and, perhaps, it +was a more important one than that of many a complacent and opulent +suburb. The heart of this little community did not center, as a +thoughtless person might suppose, in the church, or the commandery, +or the grocery store, or the school, but in the signal tower. It +was the pulse of the section. It was the life-blood of thousands of +unconcerned travelers, whose lives and happiness depended on the +intelligent vigilance of three men. These three took turns up there +in the tower, locking and unlocking switches and signals until one +might expect them to faint for dizziness and confusion. It was no +uncommon thing in the signal tower, when one of the three wanted a +day off, for the other two to double up on twelve-hour shifts. As +long as the service was well performed, the Superintendent asked no +questions."</p> +<p>The story came to be written on account of the prolonged +sickness of one of the three, which compelled the remaining two to +remain on duty until their eyes were often dim, and their brain +power exhausted. One of these finally worked until nature overcame +force of habit and reliability, and a collision would have resulted +but for the returning consciousness of the overworked and +thoroughly exhausted man.</p> +<p>While this hero of everyday life slept, or rather lost the power +of thought from extreme exhaustion, the heavy snow storm which was +making the night doubly dark had so blocked the machinery of the +semaphore that it refused to respond to the desperate efforts of +the weary signal man, who heard a freight train approaching, and +knew that unless it was flagged at once it would dash into the rear +end of a passenger train, which was standing in sight of the signal +box, with its locomotive disabled. Finally, abandoning the attempt +to move the lever, he rushed out into the night and forced his way +through the snow in the direction of the approaching train. He was +in time to avert the collision that appeared inevitable, but in his +excitement overlooked his own danger, and was knocked down and +terribly injured by the train he flagged.</p> +<p>Within the last year the largest railroad station in the world, +in the yards of which there is an immense amount of traffic, and +from whose signal towers are worked switches and signals +innumerable, has been opened. This immense station is situated at +St. Louis. It covers an area of about twelve acres, and is larger +than the two magnificent depots of Philadelphia combined. The +second largest railroad station in the world is at Frankfort, +Germany. The third in order of size is the Reading Station at +Philadelphia. The four next largest being the Pennsylvania Depot at +Philadelphia, St. Pancras Station in London, England, the +Pennsylvania Depot in Jersey City, and the Grand Central Depot in +New York City.</p> +<p>We have all heard of peculiar thefts from time to time, and the +records of stolen stoves and other heavy articles seem to show that +few things are sufficiently bulky to be absolutely secure from the +peculator or kleptomaniac. But to steal a train seems to the +average mind an impossibility, though under some conditions it is +even easy. During the crusade of the Commonwealers in 1894, more +than one train was stolen. All that was required was a sufficient +force to overcome the train crew at some small station or water +tank, and one or two men who knew how to turn on steam and keep up +a fire.</p> +<p>History tells of a much more remarkable case of train stealing, +with events of startling bravery and hair-breadth escapes connected +with it. We refer to the great railroad raid in Georgia during the +year 1862, when a handful of intrepid heroes invaded a hostile +country, deliberately stole a locomotive, and came within an ace of +getting it safely delivered into the hands of their friends.</p> +<p>A monument, surmounted by the model of a locomotive, was erected +four or five years ago to commemorate an event without precedent +and without imitation. The story of the raid reads like fiction, +but every incident we record is one of fact. Every danger narrated +was run. Every difficulty was actually encountered, and the +ultimate failure came about exactly as stated.</p> +<p>Generals Grant and Buell were at the time marching towards +Corinth, Mississippi, where a junction was to be made. The +Confederate troops were concentrating at the same point, and there +was immediate trouble brewing. General Mitchell, who was in command +of one of Buell's divisions, had advanced as far as Huntsville, +Alabama, and another detachment had got within thirty miles of +Chattanooga. It was deemed advisable, and even necessary, to cut +off the railway communication between Chattanooga and the East and +South, and James J. Andrews was selected by General Buell for the +task.</p> +<p>Andrews picked out twenty-four spirits like unto himself, who +entered the enemy's territory in ordinary Southern dress, and +without any other arms than revolvers.</p> +<p>Their purpose was to capture a train, burn the bridges on the +northern part of the Georgia State Railroad, and also on the East +Tennessee Railroad, where it approaches the Georgia State line, +thus completely isolating Chattanooga, which was then virtually +ungarrisoned. These men rendezvoused at Marietta, Georgia, more +than 200 miles from the point of departure, having (with the +exception of five, who were captured en route or belated) made +their way thither in small detachments of three and four. The +railroad at Marietta was found to be crowded with trains, and many +soldiers were among the passengers.</p> +<p>After much reconnoitering, it was determined to capture a train +at Big Shanty, a few miles north of Marietta, and, purchasing +tickets for different stations along the line in the direction of +Chattanooga, the party, which included two engineers, reached Big +Shanty.</p> +<p>While the conductor, the engineer, and most of the passengers +were at breakfast, the train was seized, and being properly manned, +after the uncoupling of the passenger cars, was started on its +fierce race northward. Think of the exploit--twenty men, with a +hostile army about them, setting out thus bravely on a long and +difficult road crowded with enemies.</p> +<p>Of course the theft of the train 'produced great consternation, +but the captors got away in safety, stopping frequently for the +purpose of tearing up the track, cutting telegraph wires, etc. +Andrews informed the people at the stations that he was an agent of +General Beauregard, running an impressed powder train through to +Corinth, and generally this silenced their doubts, though some +acted suspiciously.</p> +<p>The first serious obstacle was met at Kingston, thirty miles on +the journey. Here the captors and their train were obliged to wait +until three trains south-bound passed by. For an hour and five +minutes they remained in this most critical position, sixteen men +being shut up in the box-car, personating Beauregard's ammunition. +Just as the train got away from Kingston two pursuers appeared, +being Captain W. A. Fuller, the conductor of the stolen train, and +an officer who happened to be aboard of it at the time it was run +out from Big Shanty. Finding a hand-car, they had manned it and +pushed forward until they had found an old locomotive standing with +steam up on a side track, which they immediately loaded with +soldiers and hurried forward with flying wheels in pursuit, until +Kingston was reached, where they took the engine and a car of one +of the waiting trains, and with forty armed Confederates continued +the journey.</p> +<p>It was now nip and tuck, with one engine rushing wildly after +another. To wreck the pursuing train was the only tangible hope of +the fugitives, who stopped again and again in order to loosen a +rail. Had they been equipped with proper tools they could have done +this easily, but as it was, they simply lost precious time. Once +they were almost overtaken by the pursuing engine, and compelled to +set out again at a terrible speed. At one point at Adairsville, +they narrowly escaped running into an express train. Fuller, the +conductor of the stolen train, and his companions, being arrested +by the obstructions of the track, left their engine behind and +started on foot, finally taking possession of the express passed at +Adairsville, and turning it back in pursuit.</p> +<p>When Calhoun was passed, the trains were within sight of each +other. The track was believed to be clear to Chattanooga, and if +only the pursuing train could be wrecked, the end would be gained. +Again the lack of tools hampered the daring little band. They made +desperate effort to break a rail, but the pursuers were upon them +before they had accomplished it, and Andrews hurried on his engine, +dropping one car and then another, which were picked up and pushed +ahead, by the pursuers, to Resaca Station.</p> +<p>Both engines were, at the time, at the highest rate of speed. +Andrews at last broke off the end of his last box car and dropped +crossties on the track as he ran. Several times he almost lifted a +rail, but each time the coming of the Confederates within rifle +range compelled him to desist.</p> +<p>A participant in the feat, in his narrative of the affair, +published in "Battles and Leaders of the Civil War," by the Century +Company, says:</p> +<p>"Thus we sped on, mile after mile, in this fearful chase, around +curves and past stations in seemingly endless perspective. Whenever +we lost sight of the enemy beyond a curve, we hoped that some of +our obstructions had been effective in throwing him from the track, +and that we would see him no more; but at each long reach backward +the smoke was again seen, and the shrill whistle was like the +scream of a bird of prey. The time could not have been so very +long, for the terrible speed was rapidly devouring the distance, +but with our nerves strained to the highest tension, each minute +seemed an hour. On several occasions the escape of the enemy from +wreck seemed little less than miraculous. At one point a rail was +placed across the track so skillfully on the curve, that it was not +seen till the train ran upon it at full speed. Fuller says that +they were terribly jolted, and seemed to bounce altogether from the +track, but lighted on the rail in safety. Some of the Confederates +wished to leave a train which was driven at such a reckless rate, +but their wishes were not gratified."</p> +<p>At last, when hope was well nigh exhausted, a final attempt was +made. Additional obstructions were thrown on the track, the side +and end boards of the last car were torn into shreds, all available +fuel was piled upon it, and blazing brands were brought back from +the engine. Reaching a long, covered bridge, the car, which was now +fairly ablaze, was uncoupled; but before the bridge was fully on +fire the pursuers came upon it, pushed right into the smoke, and +ran the burning car before them to the next side track. So this +expedient also failed. With no car left, no fuel--every scrap of it +having been thrown into the engine or upon the burning car--and +with no means of further obstructing the track, the pursued party +were reduced to desperation, and as a last resource, when within +eighteen miles of Chattanooga, abandoned the train and dispersed to +the woods, each to save himself.</p> +<p>The good old locomotive, now feeble and useless, was left. +According to some accounts it was reversed, in order to cause a +collision with the on-coming train, but according to others, the +steam was exhausted, and the engine just stopped for want of power. +However this may have been, the hunters of the train become at once +hunters of the train stealers, several of whom were captured the +same day, and all but two within a week. Two of those who had +failed to connect with the party were also captured. Being in +citizen's dress within the enemy's lines, the whole party were held +as spies. A court-martial was formed and the leader and seven out +of the remaining twenty-two were condemned and executed. The others +were never brought to trial. Of the remaining fourteen, eight +succeeded by a bold effort in making an escape from Atlanta, and +ultimately reaching the North. The other six failed in this effort, +and remained prisoners until March, 1863, when they were +exchanged.</p> +<p>All sorts of stories have been heard from time to time +concerning the supernatural side of railroading, and the peculiar +and apparently hidden antics which locomotives occasionally are +guilty of. The following story is well worth reproducing, and may +serve as an illustration of hundreds of others. It was told by an +engineer, who worked on the Utah & Northern Railroad years ago, +before that road became part of the Union Pacific system. The road +was very rough, and save for a long stretch of sage brush along the +Snake River north of Pocatello, it ran in cañons, over +mountains, and through heavy cuts of clay, which was often washed +down on to the tracks by the spring rains. It was, as it is now, a +railroad rushed with business.</p> +<p>It was the only line into Butte City, which had been struck a +short time before, and was then giving promise of its future +distinction as the greatest mining camp in the world. The shipments +of gold and bullion were very heavy, and all the money for the +banks in Butte and Helena was sent over this road. There were no +towns along the line. The only stops were made at water-tanks, and +such eating-houses as the railroad company had built at long +intervals. It was a rough, hard run, and was made especially lonely +by the uninhabited stretches of sand and sage brush, and the echoes +from the high granite walls of the narrow cañon. It was a +dangerous run besides. The James gang of train robbers and the +Younger brothers had been operating so successfully in Missouri, +Kansas and Minnesota that other bandits had moved West to attempt +similar operations.</p> +<p>Finally, word came from the general offices of Wells, Fargo +& Co. that several train robbers had been seen in Denver, and +might work their way north in the hope of either securing gold +bullion from one of the down trains from Butte, or money in +exchange on an up train. After detailing these conditions, the +engineer went on.</p> +<p>"We got a new manager for the road, an Eastern man, who had some +high notions about conducting railroad travel on what he called a +modern basis. One of the first results of his management was a +train, which he called the 'Mormon Flyer,' running from Butte to +Salt Lake, and scheduled on the time card to run forty miles an +hour. We told him he never could make that time on a rough mountain +road, where a train had to twist around cañon walls like a +cow in the woods, but he wouldn't believe it. He said that if a +train could run forty-five miles an hour in the East it could run +forty on that road. The train was made up with a heavy 'hog' +engine, a baggage car, express car and two sleepers. The first +train down jumped the track twice, and the up train from Salt Lake +was wrecked and nearly thrown into the Snake River. Then the trains +ran from four to six hours behind time, and the people and the +papers began to jest about the 'Mormon Flyer,' and ask for a return +of the old Salisbury coach line. The manager complained from time +to time, and said it was all the fault of the engineers; said that +we did not know our business, and that he would get some men from +the East who would make the 'Mormon Flyer' fly on time.</p> +<p>"Well, one evening in Butte I had made up my train and was +waiting for orders, when the station-master handed two telegrams to +me. One was from the manager at Salt Lake, and read: 'You bring the +'Flyer' in on time to-morrow, or take two weeks' notice.' The other +was from the Wells, Fargo & Co. agent, at Salt Lake, and read: +'No. 3 (the north-bound 'Flyer') held up this afternoon near Beaver +Cañon. Treasure box taken and passengers robbed.' The best +description of the robbers that could be had, was given. I showed +both telegrams to the conductor, who held the train until he could +get a dozen Winchesters from the town. In the meantime I had put +the fireman on, and we put the finishing touches on the engine, No. +38--a big, new machine, with eight drivers, and in the pink of +condition. I told my fireman that if we couldn't pull her through +on time we would leave the train on the side of the road, and thus +teach a trick or two to the man who wanted to run a mountain road +on Eastern methods. I pulled that train out of Butte as though it +had been shot out of a gun, and when we reached the flat below +Silver Bar Cañon I had her well set and flying like a scared +wolf. The train was shaking from side to side like a ship at sea, +and we were skipping past the foothills so fast that they looked +like fence posts. The cab shook so that my fireman couldn't stand +to fill the fire-box, so he dumped the coal on the floor and got +down on all fours and shoveled it in. No. 38 seemed to know that +she was wanted to hold down my job, and quivered like a race horse +at the finish. We made up the lost time in the first 100 miles, and +got to Beaver Cañon with a few minutes to spare.</p> +<p>"It was when I slowed her up a bit in the cañon that I +noticed something the matter with her. She dropped her steady gait +and began to jerk and halt. The fire-box clogged and the steam +began to drop, and when I reached a fairly long piece of road in +the dark and silent cañon, she refused to recover. She spit +out the steam and gurgled and coughed, and nothing that I could do +would coax her along. I told the fireman that the old girl was +quitting us, and that we might as well steer for new jobs. He did +his best to get her into action, but she was bound to have her own +way. She kept losing speed every second, and wheezed and puffed +like a freight engine on a mountain grade, and moved about as fast. +Finally, we came to a corner of a sharp turn, almost at the mouth +of the cañon, and then No. 38 gave one loud, defiant snort +and stopped. "'She's done for now,' I said to the fireman, and we +got out of the cab with our lanterns.</p> +<p>"The cylinder-heads were almost opposite a high rock at the +turns. Well, when we got there, what do you think we saw? Not a +hundred yards ahead of the mouth of the cañon, and as plain +as day in the moonlight, was a pile of rocks on the track. On +either side was a bunch of half a dozen masked men, with Winchester +rifles half raised. Ten rods further on were a dozen or more horses +picketed at a few cottonwood trees.</p> +<p>"Well, you bet your life we couldn't get back to that train too +quick. It was not midnight, and in two minutes we had the crew and +passengers out with enough guns and revolvers to furnish the +Chinese army. Passengers, in those days, and in that country, +carried guns. When the robbers saw that the train had stopped they +started forward, to be met by a rattling fire. One of them dropped, +but the rest ran for their horses and got away.</p> +<p>"Now, then, you can't tell me that there isn't something in an +engine besides machinery," concluded the engineer, as he turned to +the other members of the Roundhouse Club.</p> +<p>"The man who says there isn't, is a fool," was the answer from +one, and the others nodded their heads in approval.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c17" id="c17">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>A RAILROAD TO THE CLOUDS.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Early History of Manitou--Zebulon Pike's Important Discovery--A +Young Medicine Man's Peril and Final Triumph--A Health Resort in +Years Gone By--The Garden of the Gods--The Railroad up Pike's +Peak--Early Failures and Final Success--The Most Remarkable Road in +the World--Riding Above the Clouds.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Manitou is a name which conjures up reminiscences of legend and +history, and it also reminds the traveler of some of the most +remarkable scenes of the Rocky Mountains. It has been said that the +man who knows how to appreciate natural grandeur and beauty, can +spend six months in the vicinity of Manitou, and then come back six +month later to find undiscovered joys and treasures of beauty on +every side.</p> +<p>The earliest reliable records concerning this spot date back to +the year 1806, when Major Zebulon Pike discovered what he called +the Great Snow Mountain. This, one of the loftiest of the Rockies, +is now known as Pike's Peak after its discoverer, or at any rate +after the man who first described it for the benefit of the +public.</p> +<p>It is on record that when Major Pike was crossing Colorado, +nearly a hundred years ago, he saw on the horizon what he regarded +as a misty cloud. When he finally realized that there was a +mountain in front of him, he was at least a hundred miles away from +it, and there were two or three smaller hills to be crossed before +reaching it. After marching for over a week the party reached the +Cheyenne Mountain, which they believed was the ascent of the great +peak, a theory which was soon disproved. Manitou is at the foot of +this great mountain. It was first described at length by an English +tourist who visited the Manitou Springs just half a century ago. He +traveled alone, and exhibited not only an immense amount of +bravery, but also unlimited judgment in evading the attacks of wild +beasts and equally savage Indians.</p> +<p>His description of the trip is full of great interest. He +describes how a band of mountain sheep advanced to the edge of an +overhanging precipice to gaze upon the intruder, and how, a moment +later, a herd of black tailed deer ran in front of him, with that +contempt of danger seen only in animals which have not come in +contact with human beings or modern weapons. The birds, he tells +us, were indifferent as to his presence. They sang almost within +arm's reach, and their rich plumage completely fascinated him. He +continued in his hunter's paradise until he accidentally stumbled +upon an Indian camp. No Indians were present, but the smouldering +camp-fires warned him that they were not far distant. Later, he saw +two Indians, who were evidently Arapahoes, carrying a deer between +them, and he knew that the delightful hunting he had promised +himself would not be forthcoming.</p> +<p>He was shortly afterwards captured in a prairie fire, in which +he was in great danger of being destroyed; nothing but the daring +of his horse saved his life. He had heard from the friendly Indians +he had met on his march that the Great Spirit had endowed the +waters of the Springs of Manitou with miraculous healing powers, +and he drank freely from the pure springs. These springs made +Manitou a veritable Mecca for Indians of the West and Southwest for +many generations before the white men discovered them. Pilgrimages +were made across mountains and rivers of great magnitude, and when +an Indian chief showed signs of failing health, and was not +benefited by the machinations of medicine men, he was generally +carried to Manitou, no matter how far the journey might be, or how +great were the obstacles to be overcome.</p> +<p>Among the many stories told concerning journeys of weeks' and +even months' duration, one is exceptionally vivid, and is evidently +founded on fact, although superstition has surrounded the facts +with so much coloring that they are hard to discover. The story +runs that in days long gone by, a great chief, who had conquered +every tribe of whose existence he was aware, fell sick and could +not be benefited by the medicine men, who were summoned from every +direction. A number of these unfortunate physicians were put to +death as a penalty for their failure to restore health to the dying +chief. Finally, there were very few medicine men remaining in the +vicinity; those who had not been decapitated having proved their +strong desire for further life by discreetly retiring to parts +unknown.</p> +<p>One day tidings were brought the chief of a young medicine man +in a neighboring tribe who had been overlooked by the searchers, +but who had been phenomenally successful in wooing back health and +prolonging life. The tribe had long since been reduced to a +condition of subjection, and the said chief sent a detachment of +his braves, with instructions to bring back the medicine man alive +or dead.</p> +<p>The young man, who had been expecting a summons of this kind, +did not display the alarm anticipated. Even when he was told that +the old chief was certainly dying, and that it was impossible to +help him in any way, he maintained his stolid indifference and +merely smiled.</p> +<p>He carried with him a primitive vessel, filled with some +mysterious fluid, upon the virtues of which he had implicit +reliance. When he reached the camp in which the sick chief lay, he +was summoned immediately before the ailing autocrat. That +individual stated his symptoms, and then, instead of asking, as we +are apt to ask our physicians, whether there was any medicine +available for them, he told the young medicine man that if no +improvement was effected within a few days there would be a funeral +in the village, and there would be one less medicine man in the +vicinity.</p> +<p>This somewhat startling introduction did not disconcert the +young man, who poured out a liberal dose of the fluid he had +brought with him, and made the old chief drink it. During the night +he repeated the doses several times, and on the following day he +kept up the treatment. To every one's astonishment the blood began +to flow again in the veins of the once invincible chief, and those +who had been pitying the young medicine man began to congratulate +him on his triumph. When, after a few days, the improvement became +more marked, the young doctor explained to the chief that the water +he had given him had been brought from springs in the distant +mountains, and that if the chief desired to obtain another lease of +life, he must visit those springs and remain there for some +weeks.</p> +<p>With the enthusiasm of renewed vigor, the old man promptly +agreed to the suggestion, and in a few days arrangements were +complete for a grand march over the Rocky Mountains to Manitou. +Tradition tells of the splendor of the march, and of the way in +which obstructions and hindrances were overcome. Finally, the great +mountain was seen in the distance, and a few days later a halt was +made at the springs. Here the old chief was given a regular +treatment, and in a few days he was able to walk as vigorously as +ever. Finally, he returned to his tribe, not only renewed in +health, but also renewed in youth. The records of his race state +that his appearance was entirely changed, and that, instead of +looking like an old man, his features were those of a youth in his +twenties. The chief lived many years, and finally died in +battle.</p> +<p>The fame of his cure naturally spread abroad with great +rapidity. The old man was so well known that he became a walking +testimonial of the merits of the springs, and expeditions without +number were in consequence made to them. White people, as they came +in contact with the Indians of the Far West, heard of the springs +from time to time and of this wonderful cure. By many the stories +were confounded with the legends concerning the search of Ponce de +Leon for the fountain of perpetual youth. Later, however, more +thorough investigation was made, and for more than a generation the +truth, as well as the legends of Manitou, have been generally +known.</p> +<p>As a result, a great watering place has sprung up on the site of +what was once a mysterious resting place of the Indians, and a +retreat which it was dangerous to enter. About 2,000 people live +here, and during the season there are often 3,000 or 4,000 +health-seekers in addition. There is a grand avenue through the +village eighty feet wide and well kept. Instead of being laid out +in a mathematically straight line, it follows the meanderings of +the River Fontaine-qui-Bouille. This feature gives it a novel as +well as a delightful appearance. There is also a little park, which +possesses features not to be found in the recreation grounds of +large cities, and there is a foot-path known as Lover's Lane, which +is so romantic in its appearance that it is obviously well +known.</p> +<p>The springs of Manitou are naturally the most interesting +feature of the place. The Shoshone Spring, in the center of the +village, is, perhaps, the best known. The Navajo Spring is but a +few yards distant, and is considerably larger. The Manitou Spring +itself is on the other side of the river, and is covered over with +a very elegant spring-house. The Iron Ute Spring is in Engelman's +Cañon or glen, and is regarded by many as the best of all. +Caves and cañons innumerable abound in every direction. The +Manitou Grand Cañon is within two miles of the village. It +presents the appearance of a natural mansion, with rooms several +hundred feet long and high. The natural formations of the peculiar +rocks present bewildering combinations of galleries, columns and +frescoes. Here is to be seen the wonderful stalactite organ. This, +according to many, is one of the wonders of the world. It consists +of a number of thin stalactites of varying powers of reverberation, +and these play delightful tunes or at least tones.</p> +<p>One of the great objects of a trip to Manitou is to gain a sight +of the world-renowned, but singularly named, Garden of the Gods. +The most direct road to reach it from the village is by way of +Manitou Avenue and Buena Vista Drive, the latter being a +well-traveled road, which enters the avenue on the left, about a +mile from the town, as one advances towards Colorado City. The +entrance to the Garden is past Balanced Rock, an immense boulder +which stands directly to the left of the road, poised on such a +slender base that it suggests an irregular pyramid standing on its +apex. To the right, as one passes this curious formation, is a +steep wall of stratified stone, draped with clinging vines, and +overgrown with evergreens. Pausing a moment on the brow of the +elevation which is reached here, one can look down into the valley +below in which the Garden lies. To the west are the mountains; to +the east the plains. The road which winds through the valley is a +pleasant way. One's eyes and mind are kept busy beholding and +recording the interesting views which here abound.</p> +<p>No one knows why this valley was named "The Garden of the Gods." +There is nothing especially garden-like in its appearance; but, +doubtless through "apt alliteration's artful aid," the name has +become greatly popular, and it would be foolish to quarrel with it, +or make any attempt to change it. There are, however, ample +suggestions that Titanic forces have been at work here, and it +requires but little imagination to ascribe these innumerable quaint +sculpturings, these magnificent architectural rock works, these +grand and imposing temples, not made with hands, to the agencies of +the gods. Here are to be found carved in the stone by those cunning +instruments of the hands of Nature--the wind, the rain, the sunbeam +and the frost--curious, often grotesque, figures irresistibly +suggestive of forms of life. Here stands a statue of Liberty, +leaning on her shield, with the conventional Phrygian cap on her +head; there is a gigantic frog carved in sandstone; yonder is a +pilgrim, staff in hand. Groups of figures in curious attitudes are +to be seen on every hand.</p> +<p>Stone figures of the lion, the seal and the elephant are all +found; indeed, a lively imagination is not needed to discover in +this Garden of the Gods an endless variety of imitative forms of +human beings, of birds and beasts and reptiles. These figures +possess a curious interest and attract wondering attention; but the +notable and majestic objects here are the "Great Gateway" and the +"Cathedral Spires." Two lofty tables of carnelian colored +sandstone, set directly opposite each other, about fifty feet +apart, and rising to a height of 330 feet, form the portals of the +far-famed Gateway. They rise from perfectly level ground, and +present a strangely impressive spectacle.</p> +<p>The "Cathedral Spires" are of a similar character to the +Gateway, but their crests are sharply splintered into spire-like +pinnacles. The forms assumed by the rocks here are remarkable +indeed, but their color is still more remarkable. No sandstones of +the East glow with such a splendor of carnelian hue. The striking +contrast formed by these crimson crags outlined against he deep +blue sky, and gilded by the high, white light of the unclouded sun +of Colorado, cannot be described.</p> +<p>One of the most visited prairie-dog towns is close to the Garden +of the Gods. It is interesting to the tourist, and is generally +visited on the return from the Garden to Manitou. The town is +situated on the road which passes through the great Gateway to +Colorado City, and may be seen on a little plateau to the left. +There are a great number of little hills of sand and gravel thrown +up by the dogs around their burrows. Every fine day they can be +seen at work around their dwellings, or sitting on their haunches +sunning themselves, and chattering gaily with some neighbor. The +burrow has an easy incline for about two feet, then descends +perpendicularly for five or six, and after that branches off +obliquely; it is often as large as a foot in diameter. It has been +claimed that the prairie-dog, the owl and the rattlesnake live +harmoniously together.</p> +<p>Concerning this, Mr. William G. Smith, the well-known +naturalist, says: "Impossible. The burrowing owl will generally be +seen where dogs congregate, and wherever the ground is undermined +his snakeship is apt to be found; but rest assured there is some +lively 'scattering' to get out of his way if he draws his slimy +carcass into their burrows. The dogs have no desire to contest his +right to it, and give him all the room he wants." The dogs at home +are neat little fellows, and allow no litter to accumulate around +their doors. They go to bed early, and never go around disturbing +their neighbors before daylight.</p> +<p>Adjoining the Garden is a region of ridges. One ridge leads up +to another, and that to a third, and so on. This broken country, +covered with pine and cedar, and clothed with bunch grass and +grama, makes a capital tramping-ground, especially in winter, when +rabbits, mountain grouse and sage-hens are numerous enough to make +it worth while to shoulder a gun.</p> +<p>The way to reach the ridges is to take the road to the Garden of +the Gods, and follow it till the Quarry Road is reached. Pursuing +the latter up a gorge, and then turning to the left on a branch +road, which zigzags up the sides of the gorge, one soon finds +oneself on the top of a ridge. The rule in ridge-climbing is never +to cross a gully, but always to keep on top. All the ridges in this +vicinity converge to the main ridge, which overlooks Queen's +Cañon. This ridge bends to the northwest, and in two or +three miles joins a still higher one, which, strange to say, will +be found to overlook the Ute Pass, a thousand feet above the +Fontaine qui-Bouille, which flows in the bottom of the cañon +below--Eyrie, the site of a private residence--a most interesting +glen, but not open to the public. The character of the monoliths in +this cañon is more remarkable even than those of the Garden +of the Gods.</p> +<p>The Major Domo is a column of red sandstone, rising to a height +of 300 feet, with a curious swell near the summit, which far +exceeds in diameter the base of the shaft. It looks as though it +might fall at any moment in obedience to the laws of gravity, and +it is not exceeded in this regard by the Leaning Tower of Pisa. +There is another glen of a similar character, about two miles to +the northwest, which is known as Blair Athol. It is a beautiful +spot, but, lacking water, has never been used as a dwelling place. +It abounds in wildly picturesque scenery, and possesses rock +formations of strange shapes and brilliant colors. There are groves +of magnificent pines; and the view of the distant plains stretching +to the eastern horizon is unobstructed, and of great interest.</p> +<p>We have already spoken of the discovery of Pike's Peak. At the +summit of this mountain, 14,147 feet above the sea level, there is +a little signal service station, which can be reached by railway. +When the mountain was first discovered several efforts were made to +reach the summit, but without success. Major Pike himself recorded +his opinion that it would be impossible for any human being to +ascend to the summit. In these days of engineering progress there +is, however, no such word as "impossible." Several enthusiasts +talked as far back as twenty years ago of the possibility of a +railroad to the very summit of the once inaccessible peak, and +fifteen years ago a survey was made, with a view to building a +railroad up the mountain, by a series of curves and nooks.</p> +<p>It was believed possible by the engineers that a railroad of +standard gauge and equipment could be operated without special +appliances, and so strongly was this view held that work was +commenced on the project. Eight miles of grading was completed, but +the project was then abandoned in consequence of adverse reports +received from experts, sent out for the purpose. Their statement +was that no grade would be able to stand the force of the washouts, +though, strange to say, all the grading that was accomplished +stands to-day, as firm as ever. Three or four years later another +project, destined to be more successful, came into existence. In +1889, grading commenced, and finally the work was completed, and +the summit of Pike's Peak can now be reached by railroad.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0357.jpg" name="Rail" id="Rail"><img src= +"images/m0357t.jpg" alt="Climbing Pike's Peak by Rail" /></a> +<h4>Climbing Pike's Peak by Rail</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The road itself is one of the most remarkable ones in the United +States, and, indeed, in the world. The road-bed is fifteen feet +wide, and there is not a single foot of trestle work in the entire +construction. There are three short bridges of iron, and the +precautions in the way of cross sections of masonry are very +elaborate. The average ascent per mile is 1,320 feet, and the total +ascent is nearly 8,000 feet. In the center of the track, between +the heavy steel rails, are two cog rails, of great strength. These +are provided to insure absolute safety for travelers, one being for +general use and the other as a kind of reserve.</p> +<p>Special locomotives are used on the line. These were constructed +by the Baldwin Company, of Philadelphia, and include the latest +patents in engine building. When standing on a level track they +appear to be at a slant of about 8 per cent. When on a mountain +road, like that of Pike's Peak, they are approximately level. There +are three wheels on each side of the engine, but these are not +driving wheels, being merely used to help sustain the weight. The +driving wheels operate on the cog rails in the center of the track. +The cars also slope, or slant, like the engine. No couplings are +used, so that one great element of danger, is avoided. The engine +and the cars have each independent cog brakes of almost unlimited +power. When traveling three or four miles an hour, the little +train, with the locomotive pushing instead of pulling it, can be +stopped instantly. When the speed reaches eight or nine miles an +hour, stoppage can be effected in less than one revolution of a +wheel.</p> +<p>Not only is the ride up Pike's Peak a wonderful sensation and a +constant reminder of the triumphs of engineering, but it is also a +source of continual delight to the lover of the beautiful and awful +in nature. About half way up the mountain is a most delightful +little hillside retreat, aptly named "The Half-Way House." It is a +very comfortable establishment within rustic walls. The pines and +firs which surround it add a great charm to the outlook, and the +cool mountain breeze is charged with very pleasing odors. Tourists +frequently spend a night here and consider the sensation one of the +most unique of a long trip.</p> +<p>A tourist describing a ride up Pike's Peak by this singular +railroad, says:</p> +<p>"We are now far above timber line. On all sides can be seen +strange flowers, of lovely forms and varied hues. Plants which +attain considerable proportions on the plains are here reduced to +their lowest forms. It is not an unusual thing to find a sunflower +stalk in the prairies rising from a height of eight to ten feet; +here they grow like dandelions in the grass, yet retaining all +their characteristics of form and color. Beyond this mountain +meadow are great fields of disintegrated granite, broken cubes of +pink rock, so vast in extent that they might well be the ruins of +all the ancient cities in the world. Far below flash the waters of +Lake Morain, and beyond, to the southward, lie the Seven Lakes. +Another turn of the track to the northward, and the shining rails +stretch almost straight up what appears to be an inaccessible wall +of almost peerless granite. But no physical obstruction is +formidable enough to stop the progress of this marvelous railway; +and passing the yawning abyss of the 'Crater,' the line proceeds +direct to the summit. The grade here is one of 25 per cent., and +timid passengers will not escape a thrill of fear as they gaze over +the brink of this precipice, although the danger is absolutely +nothing. At last the summit is reached, and, disembarking, the +tourists can seek refreshments in the hotel, which will cater to +their wants, and then spend the time before the train returns in +enjoying the view, and in rambling over the seventy acres of broken +granite which form the summit.</p> +<p>"The view from the Peak, once beheld, can never be forgotten. +The first sensation is that of complete isolation. The silence is +profound. The clouds are below us, and noiselessly break in foaming +billows against the faces of the beetling cliffs. Occasionally the +silence is broken by the deep roll of thunder from the depths +beneath, as though the voice of the Creator were uttering a stern +edict of destruction. The storm rises, the mists envelop us, there +is a rush of wind, a rattle of hail, and we seek refuge in the +hotel.</p> +<p>"Pause a moment before entering, and hold up your hands. You can +feel the sharp tingle of the electric current as it escapes from +your finger-tips. The storm is soon over, and you can see the +sunbeams gilding the upper surfaces of the white clouds that sway +and swing below you half way down the mountain sides, and +completely hide from view the world beneath. The scenery shifts, +like a drawn curtain the clouds part; and as from the heights of +another sphere we look forth upon the majesty of the mountains and +the plains, an ocean of inextricably entangled peaks sweeps into +view. Forests dark and vast seem like vague shadows on distant +mountain sides. A city is dwarfed into the compass of a single +block; water courses are mere threads of silver, laid in graceful +curves upon the green velvet mantle of the endless plains. The red +granite rocks beneath our feet are starred with tiny flowers, so +minute that they are almost microscopic, yet tinted with the most +delicate and tender colors.</p> +<p>"The majesty of greatness and the mystery of minuteness are here +brought face to face. What wonders of creation exist between these +two extremes! The thoughtful mind is awed by the contemplation of +this scene, and when the reflection comes that these vast spaces +are but grains of sand upon an infinite shore of creation, and that +there are worlds of beauty as far and varied between the tiny +flowers and the ultimate researches of the microscope as those +which exist, on an ascending scale, between the flowers and the +great globe itself, the mind is overwhelmed with wonder and +admiration. It is in vain that one strives to describe the scene. +Only those who have beheld it can realize its grandeur and +magnificence."</p> +<p>Lovers of horseback riding regard the vicinity of Pike's Peak +and Manitou almost in the light of a paradise. A ride of a few +miles in any direction leads to some specially attractive or +historic spot. Crystal Park is one of the popular resorts of this +kind. It is enclosed by high mountains on all sides, with an +entrance which partakes of the nature of a natural gateway. In +summer time this park is a profusion of bloom, with wild flowers +and vines seldom seen in any other part of the world in such +splendor. There are several elevated spots from which the +surrounding country can be seen for miles. Above the park is +Cameron's Cone. This is a mountain of much interest, although it +can only be reached and climbed by hardy, athletic individuals. All +around there are a profusion of cañons. The Red Rock +Cañon was at one time a popular resort. It took its name +from the profusion of red sandstone on all sides. This natural +wealth finally destroyed the beauty of the cañon, which is +now a mass of stone quarries. Bear Creek Cañon has less of +the practical and more of the picturesque about it. A very charming +brook runs down the center, and there are two or three small but +very delightful falls.</p> +<p>The Ridge Road is a species of boulevard recently constructed +for the use of visitors to Manitou. At places the grade is so +abrupt that timid ladies do not care to drive down it. Otherwise it +is a very pleasing thoroughfare, with fresh surprises and delights +awaiting the tourist every time he passes along it. The view in +every direction is most charming and extensive. Pike's Peak can be +seen to great advantage, and in the forty miles of the road many +different features of this mountain can be observed. The road also +leads to William's Cañon.</p> +<p>Cheyenne Mountain, although dwarfed somewhat by Pike's Peak, is +deserving of notice. It is very massive in its form, and its sides +are almost covered by cañons, brooklets and waterfalls. Two +vast gorges, know as the North and South Cañons, are +especially asked for by visitors. The walls of these gorges are of +rich granite, and stand perpendicular on each side a thousand feet +high. The effect is very wonderful in a variety of ways. In the +South Cañon are the celebrated Seven Falls, which were +immortalized by Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson, the well-known poetess, +whose remains were interred on Cheyenne Mountain by her own +request. The Seven Lakes must also be seen by all visitors to the +Manitou region, and there are so many more special features to be +examined and treasures to be discovered that, no matter how long +one stays in the neighborhood, a pang of regret is felt when the +visit is brought to a termination.</p> +<p>There are other spots in America where more awful scenes can be +encountered. There are few, however where the combinations are so +delightful or the general views so attractive and varying.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c18" id="c18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>INTO THE BOWELS OF THE EARTH.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Grand Cañon of the Colorado--Niagara Outdone--The +Course of the Colorado River--A Survey Party Through the +Cañon--Experiences of a Terrible Night--Wonderful Contrasts +of Color in the Massive Rocks--A Natural Wall a Thousand Feet +High--Hieroglyphics which have Never been Deciphered--Relics of a +Superior Race--Conjecture as to the Origin of the Ancient Bearded +White Men.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>We have already spoken of Niagara as one of the wonders of the +world, and one of the most sought-after beauty spots of America. We +will now devote a few pages to a description of a far more +remarkable natural wonder and to a phenomenon which, were it +situated nearer the center of population, would have long since +outclassed even Niagara as a tourist's Mecca.</p> +<p>Reference is made to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado.</p> +<p>Few people have the slightest conception of the magnitude or +awfulness of this cañon. It is clearly one of the wonders of +the world, and its vastness is such that to explore it from end to +end is a work of the greatest possible difficulty.</p> +<p>Even in area, the cañon is extraordinary. It is large +enough to contain more than one Old World country. It is long +enough to stretch across some of the largest States in the Union. +Some of the smaller New England States would be absolutely +swallowed up in the yawning abyss could they, by any means, be +removed to it bodily. An express train running at a high rate of +speed, without a single stop and on a first-class road-bed, could +hardly get from one end of the cañon to the other in less +than five hours, and an ordinary train with the usual percentage of +stoppage would about make the distance between morning and +evening.</p> +<p>Reduced to the record of cold figures, the Grand Cañon is +made up of a series of chasms measuring about 220 miles in length, +as much as 12 miles in width, and frequently as much as 7,000 feet +in depth.</p> +<p>This marvelous feature of American scenery is very fully +described in "Our Own Country," published by the National +Publishing Company. In describing the cañon, that profusely +illustrated work says that the figures quoted "do not readily +strike a responsive chord in the human mind, for the simple reason +that they involve something utterly different from anything that +more than 99 per cent. of the inhabitants of the world have ever +seen. The man who gazes upon Niagara for the first time, is +astounded at the depth of the gorge as well as at the force of the +water; and he who has seen Niagara can appreciate somewhat the +marvels of the Grand Cañon, when he bears in mind that the +great wonder of the Western World is for miles at a stretch more +than fifty times as deep as the falls and the gorge, generally +admitted to be the most awful scenic grandeur within reach of the +ordinary traveler. Nor is this all. Visitors to Paris who have +enjoyed a bird's-eye view of the gay city from the summit of Eifel +Tower, have felt terribly impressed with its immense altitude, and +have been astounded at the effect on the appearance of living and +inanimate objects so far below them. How many of the Americans who +have been thus impressed by French enterprise, have realized that +in their own country there is a natural gorge, at points of which +the distance between the summit and the base is more than five +times as great as the height of the Eifel Tower?"</p> +<p>The Colorado River rises in the Rocky Mountains, crosses the +Territories of Utah and Arizona, and then running between the last +named and the State of California, finally empties its waters into +the gulf bearing the name of the Golden State. For more than two +hundred miles of its course it runs through the gorge known as the +Grand Cañon, and hence it has been a very difficult river to +explore. During the Sixteenth Century, some of the Spanish +explorers, to whom this country is indebted so much for early +records and descriptions, crossed the then undeveloped deserts of +the Southwest and discovered the Grand Cañon. Many of the +reports they made of the wonders of the New World read so much like +fairy tales, and seemed so obviously exaggerated, that little +credence was given to them. Hence it was that their estimates +concerning the gorge through which the Rio Colorado Grande flows +were treated as fables, and laughed at rather than believed.</p> +<p>Major Powell, than whom few men have done more to enlighten the +world concerning the wonders of the Far West, describes the +cañon very aptly, and speaks in a most attractive manner of +the countless cañons and caverns, whirlpools and eddies, +brooklets and rivers, fords and waterfalls, that abound on every +side. In his first extended description of the cañon, he +stated that "every river entering it has cut another cañon; +every lateral creek has also cut another cañon; every brook +runs in a cañon; every rill born of a shower and living only +in the showers, has cut for itself a cañon; so that the +whole upper portion of the basin of the Colorado is traversed by a +labyrinth of these deep gorges. About the basin are mountains; +within the basin are cañon gorges; the stretches of land +from brink to brink are of naked rock or of drifting sands, with +here and there lines of volcanic cones, and of black scoria and +ashes scattered about."</p> +<p>Of late years thousands of people have been attracted to this +great cañon, although but very few have succeeded in +exploring its entire length. Few, indeed, have been able to pass +along the balcony of the cañon, and to gaze up at the +countless wonders of nature, piled one above the other, apparently +up to the very region of the clouds. The common notion of a +cañon, as Captain C. E. Dutton tells us, is that of a deep, +narrow gash in the earth, with nearly vertical walls, like a great +and neatly cut trench. There are hundreds of chasms in the plateau +country which answer very well to this notion. It is, however, +unfortunate that the stupendous passway for the Colorado River +through the Kaibabs was ever called a cañon, for the name +identified it with the baser conception. At places the distance +across the chasm to the nearest point on the summit of the opposite +wall is about seven miles. A more correct statement of the general +width would be from eleven to twelve miles. It is hence somewhat +unfortunate that there is a prevalent idea, in some way, that an +essential part of the grandeur of the Grand Cañon is the +narrowness of its defile.</p> +<p>As Major Powell expresses it, there are rather a series of +cañons, than one huge one. Wherever the river has cut its +way through the sandstones, marbles and granites of the Kaibab +Mountains, beautiful and awe-inspiring pictures are seen, while +above there are domes and peaks, some of red sandstone and some of +snowy whiteness. Cataract Cañon alone is forty-one miles +long, and has seventy-five cataracts and rapids, of which +fifty-seven are within a space of nineteen miles. A journey along +the bank of a river with a waterfall every twenty feet, on the +average, is no joke, and only the hardiest men have been able to +accomplish it. In the spring of 1889, the survey party of a +projected railroad from Grand Junction to the Gulf of California, +made this journey, and from its published description more actual +information can be gleaned concerning the cañon itself than +almost any mere verbal description.</p> +<p>The surveyors had to carry with them, on their backs, for a +great portion of the way, the limited supplies of food they took +with them, because it was frequently impossible to get the boats +along at all. When the boats were used, several were upset, and +everything was uncertainty as to the bill of fare that would be +presented at the next meal, even if there was to be a meal at all. +Mr. Frank M. Brown, president of the railroad company, lost his +life in one of the whirlpools. He was in a boat, a little ahead of +the others, and seemed to be cheerful and hopeful. He shouted to +his comrades in the rear to come on with their boats, and that he +was all right. A moment later, his friends were astonished to see +the boat gone, and their leader swimming around and around in a +whirlpool, trying hard to reach smooth water.</p> +<p>He was a good swimmer, and a brave man, but his efforts were +futile, and finally he sank. The party waited and watched for +hours, but were finally compelled to recognize the fact that their +friend and leader was gone forever.</p> +<p>It was determined almost immediately to beat a retreat. While +the party was hunting for a side cañon leading northward +through which they could make their exit, it became evident that a +storm was brewing. Rain commenced to fall in a steady shower, and +to increase in quantity. The surveyors had no dry clothing beyond +what they stood up in, and there was no shelter of any kind at +hand. They were near Vassey's Paradise, in the deepest part of the +cañon they had yet reached. A storm in such a location had +its awfulness intensified beyond measure, and the frightened men +looked in every direction for shelter. Finally, about forty feet up +the side of the marble cliff, the opening to a small cavern was +seen. Into this Mr. R. B. Stanton, one of the party, climbed. There +was not room enough for his body at full length, but he crawled in +as best he could, curled himself up, and tried to sleep.</p> +<p>A terrible night followed. At about midnight he was awakened by +a terrific peal of thunder, which re-echoed and reverberated +through the cañon in a most magnificently awful manner. He +had been caught in storms in mountain regions and deep valleys +before, but he had never felt so terribly alone or so +superstitiously alarmed as on this occasion. Every now and then a +vivid flash of lightning would light up the dark recesses of the +gorge, casting ghastly shadows upon the cliffs, hill sides, ravines +and river. Then again there would be the darkness which, as Milton +puts it, could be felt, and the feeling of solitude was almost +intolerable.</p> +<p>The river in the meantime had swollen into a torrent, by the +drenching rain, which had converted every creek into a river, and +every feeder of the Colorado into a magnificent, if raging, river +itself. The noise caused by the excited river, as it leaped over +the massive rocks along its bed, vied with the thunder, and the +echoes seemed to extend hundreds of miles in every direction. What +affected the stranded traveler the most was the noise overhead, the +reverberation inducing a feeling of alarm that huge masses of rock +were being displaced from their lofty eminence thousands of feet +above his head, and were rushing down upon him.</p> +<p>The night was passed, finally, and when the storm had spent +itself, the survivors of the party succeeded in getting out of the +cañon and reaching a plateau, 2,500 feet above. They then +took a brief rest, but with that disregard for danger which is +characteristic of the true American, they at once organized another +expedition, and a few months later resumed the task so tragically +interrupted and marred with such a sad fatality.</p> +<p>The trip through Glen Cañon was like a pleasure trip on a +smooth river in autumn, with beautiful wild flowers and ferns at +every camp. At Lee's Ferry they ate their Christmas dinner, with +the table decorated with wild flowers, picked that day.</p> +<p>On December 28th they started to traverse, once more, that +portion of Marble Cañon made tragic by the fatality of the +summer before. "On the next Tuesday," writes Mr. Stanton, "we +reached the spot where President Brown lost his life. What a change +in the waters! What was then a roaring torrent, now, with the water +some nine feet lower, seemed from the shore like the gentle ripple +upon the quiet lake. We found, however, in going through it with +our boats, there was the same swift current, the same huge eddy, +and between them the same whirlpool, with its ever-changing +circles. Marble Cañon seemed destined to give us trouble. On +January 1st, our photographer, Mr. Nims, fell from a bench of the +cliff, some twenty-two feet, on to the sand beach below, receiving +a severe jar, and breaking one of his legs just above the ankle. +Having plenty of bandages and medicine, we made Nims as comfortable +as possible till the next day, when we loaded one of the boats to +make him a level bed, and constructing a stretcher of two oars and +a piece of canvas, put him on board and floated down river a couple +of miles--running two small rapids--to a side cañon, which +led out to the Lee's Ferry road."</p> +<p>The next day, after discovering a way out of the deep ravine, +one of the party tramped thirty-five miles back to Lee's Ferry, +where a wagon was obtained for the injured surveyor. Eight of the +strongest men of the party then undertook the task of carrying the +injured man a distance of four miles, and up a hill 1,700 feet +high. It is indicative of the extraordinary formation of the Grand +Cañon that the last half mile was an angle of 45 degrees, up +a loose rock slide. The stretcher had to be attached to ropes and +gently lifted over perpendicular cliffs, from ten to twenty feet +high. The dangerous and tedious journey was at last accomplished, +and the trip continued.</p> +<p>Finally the unexplored portion of the cañon was reached. +For thirty miles down Marble Cañon, to the Little Colorado +River, the most beautiful scenery was encountered. At Point +Retreat, the solid marble walls stand perpendicularly 300 feet high +from the river edge. Behind these walls the sandstone lies in +benches, and slopes to an aggregate height of 2,500 feet. Above the +narrow ravine of marble, the color is mostly rich gray, although +the presence of minerals has in places imparted so many tints that +quite a rainbow appearance is presented. Caves and caverns relieve +the monotony of the solid walls. Here and there a most delightful +grotto is seen, while the action of the water rushing down the +cliff sides has left little natural bridges in many places. +Countless fountains of pure, sparkling water adorn the smooth +rocks, and here and there are little oases of ferns and flowers, +which seem strangely out of place so far down into the very bowels +of the earth.</p> +<p>Below Point Hausbrough, named in honor of Peter M. Hausbrough, +who was drowned during the first exploring trip, the cañon +widens rapidly. The marble benches are replaced by strata of +limestone and between the river and the rocks green fields and +groves of trees become common. The view from the river, looking +across this verdure, with sandstone rocks for the immediate +background, and snow-capped mountains in the distance, is +extraordinary in its magnificence and combinations. Between the +grand junction of the Little Colorado with the main cañon +and the Granite Gorge, there is about eight hundred miles of a very +different section. Evidences of volcanic action abound. Rocks and +boulders seem to have been blown out of position and mixed up all +in a heap. The rocks are largely charged with mineral, and, as a +result, almost every known color is represented, in the most +remarkable purity. The river runs through a wide valley, with the +top walls several miles apart.</p> +<p>The Granite Gorge itself is entirely different. Here the great +walls of granite start from the water's edge. The first few feet +are usually vertical. Then, for a thousand feet or more, the rise +is at an angle of about 45 degrees, while occasionally masses of +rock stand out prominently and overhang the river. Above the +granite comes a mass of dark colored sandstone, with a vertical +front. In many places it is perfectly black, the color being +intensified by the brightness of the red below. If an artist were +to paint a cliff deep red, with a jet black border along the top, +Old World critics would be apt to declare him insane. Yet this is +really the coloring of this section of the most wonderful +cañon in the entire world.</p> +<p>Although the cañon at this point varies in width at the +top from six to twelve miles, the river really runs through a +narrow gorge, and partakes very much of the nature of a long rapid +or cataract. For ten miles the fall averages twenty-one feet per +mile, sufficient to make the current very dangerous even at low +water, and something terrible after heavy rains or much snow +melting. In one place the fall is eighty feet in about five hundred +yards, and here, of course, navigation is practically out of the +question. The explorers, to whom we have referred, were compelled +to proceed with great deliberation at this point. Occasionally they +ran the rapids, but very often they were compelled to lower their +boats by means of lines, and even to lift them over exceptionally +dangerous rocks.</p> +<p>At the worst point of all, one of the boats, while being lowered +by lines, was struck by an eddy and run tightly in between two +rocks. It became necessary for men to go into the water to liberate +the boat. With lines tied securely to their bodies, some of the +boldest of the explorers ventured into the water and tried to +loosen the boat, or at least to secure the invaluable provisions +and blankets on board. It was January, and the water was so +intensely cold that no man could endure it more than a few minutes +at a time, so that the process was a long and tedious one. Finally +the boat was got out, but it took five days to repair it, and even +then it was a very poor means of navigation. A few days later, a +still more powerful and dangerous rapid was encountered. Some idea +of the force of the water can be gleaned from the precautions that +were necessary. A line 250 feet long was strung out ahead, and the +boat was swung into the stream. It went through apparently the most +dangerous places without much difficulty. The line was loosened +slowly and the boat held under control, but when it reached the +main eddy it began to get contrary, and finally swung round, and +seemed to have struck a back current. Several hours' work got the +boat to shore, but the next one was dashed into a thousand pieces +while crossing over some of the sharp-pointed rocks.</p> +<p>The forty miles of the Granite Gorge are replete with wonders. +The strangely misnamed section, the Bright Angel Creek, is +absolutely dark, even at midday. It has been described as a +sentinel of the great cañon, and few people have dared +attempt to pass through it. Farther down, the granite walls become +less steep, and black granite relieves the monotony of color. Here +and there, at side cañons and sudden bends, the vast rear +view of the gorge, with its sandstone cliffs, is brought into view. +These are benched back several miles from the river, with huge +mountains here and there intervening. Above the dark sandstone +there are flattened slopes of yellow, brown, red, green and white +rock, rich in mineral. Through these the force of water for ages +has cut narrow, trench-like waterfalls, most remarkable in +appearance and attractive in their variety of coloring.</p> +<p>It is difficult to imagine an upright wall a thousand feet high +with red the predominating color, and with brighter hues near the +summit. Benches of marble, with tufts of glass and bush, appear +here and there, while occasionally there is a little tract of +faultless green. Above all this, there is something like two +thousand feet of a lighter colored sandstone. This is beautified by +spiral turrets and domes, and wherever the slope is gradual enough, +pine and cedar trees abound in large numbers. Behind all this there +is the background of snow on the summit of the mountains, and when +an unexpected view can be obtained from the river below, there is +so great a profusion of coloring that the eye rebels, and a feeling +not unlike headache is produced.</p> +<p>Further wonders are revealed every few thousand feet. At the +mouth of the next creek the coloring is different. The strata dips +visibly, and the marble, which has hitherto been exposed to view, +is now beneath the surface. The sandstone forms the river boundary, +and rises at a sharp angle from the water's edge. The river itself +is narrow in consequence, but the great valley is even wider at the +top. The walls vary in height from 2,000 to 8,000 feet, and in +rainy seasons the water rushes down the side in great profusion. +Thousands of little rivulets join the main stream, and add greatly +to the volume of water. Sometimes the river will rise four or five +feet in a single night, upsetting all calculation, and making +navigation risky in the extreme. When, by chance, the sun is able +to penetrate into the depths of this cañon, the +kaleidoscopic effects are exquisite, and cause the most indifferent +to pause and wonder.</p> +<p>The discovery of an extinct volcano explains a great deal of the +wonders of the great cañon. The volcano is examined by +thousands of tourists, this being one of the spots to reach which +scientists are willing to incur countless hardships and risks. No +one can tell when the volcano was active, but from the nature of +the crater it is perfectly clear that at one time it belched forth +volumes of lava, which had a marked effect on the formation of the +rock and the lay of the land of the surrounding country. Past the +volcano, for many miles, the bright colors already referred to are +supplanted by more sombre hues. Occasionally there is a little +scarlet, and, as a rule, the sandstone is covered with the +mysterious substance brought out of the bowels of the earth by the +now silent, but once magnificently awful, mountains.</p> +<p>The exploring party to which we have referred, went through 600 +miles of cañons, and found that no two miles were really +alike. Finally, after three months of hardship, they emerged into +an open country, and became almost frantic with joy. Never did +country seem so beautiful, or verdure so attractive, and the +panorama of beauty which was presented to their view caused them to +shout with delight, and to offer up cries of thankfulness for their +ultimate deliverance from a series of hardships and dangers which +at one time seemed almost insurmountable.</p> +<p>The region also abounds with archaeological curiosities and +remarkable hieroglyphics. Many of these are found in close +proximity to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, and on the +cliffs in which the far-famed cliff dwellers of old took up their +abode. Hieroglyphics, marked upon rocks or other lasting +substances, have been used by nearly all ancient races to +perpetuate the history of certain events among them. Especially +true is this of the ancient people who lived in Arizona. The +remarkable picture rocks and boulders, with strange symbols upon +them, left by the prehistoric races of Arizona, have been the cause +of much discussion among those who have seen them, as to who these +ancient hieroglyphic makers were. These rock records may be divided +into three different kinds, which it is thought were made by two +different races. The first, or very ancient race, left records on +rocks, in some instances of symbols only, and in other instances of +pictures and symbols combined. The later race, which came after the +first race had vanished, made only crude representations of +animals, birds or reptiles, not using symbols or combinations of +lines.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0378.jpg" name="Hieroglyphic" id="Hieroglyphic"><img src= +"images/m0378t.jpg" alt="Hieroglyphic Memoirs of Past Ages" /></a> +<h4>Hieroglyphic Memoirs of Past Ages</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The age of the most ancient pictographs and hieroglyphics can +only be conjectured, but all give certain indications that they are +many centuries old, and the difference between the work of the +ancient and the later race leads the observer to believe that the +older hieroglyphics were made by a people far superior to those who +came after them, and who left no record in symbols, as we have +said, with the exception of crude representations of animals and +reptiles.</p> +<p>In many instances it is quite evident that the same rock or +cliff has been used by the two different races to put their +markings upon, the later, or inferior, race often making their +pictographs over or across the hieroglyphic writings of the first +race. Of the superiority of the first people who left their +writings on the rocks and boulders found in the ancient mounds, +ruins and graves, there can be no doubt, for their writings show +order and a well defined design in symbols, which were evidently +intended to convey their history to others; and it is quite +probable that those who made the great mounds, houses and canals +were the authors of these writings. It may be truthfully asserted +that the cliff dwellers of the rock houses in the deep +cañons of the mountains were of the same race as the mound +builders of the valleys, for exactly the same class of +hieroglyphics found on boulders from the ancient ruins of the +valleys, are found on the rocks near the houses of the cliff +dwellers.</p> +<p>If this superior race were so distinctive from all other ancient +races of Arizona--in their work being so far advanced as to solve +what would be called, even at the present day, difficult +engineering problems; to dig great canals many miles in length, the +remains of which can be seen at the present time, and to bring them +to such perfection for irrigating purposes; to build such great +houses and to live in cities--may it not have been, as many who +have studied this subject now contend, that this superior race were +white people instead of a copper colored race, as has generally +been supposed?</p> +<p>The hieroglyphics of the more ancient race are often found on +sheltered rocks on the slopes of the mountains leading up from the +valleys. Generally protected from the elements by overhanging +cliffs, the dry climate has kept the writings from wearing away, +and being in most instances picked into rocks which have a black, +glistening surface, but of a lighter color underneath, the contrast +is very noticeable, and when in prominent places these +hieroglyphics can be seen several hundred feet away.</p> +<p>As no metal tools have ever been found in the mounds, ruins or +cliff dwellings, the hieroglyphics were probably picked into the +rock with a sharp-pointed stone much harder than the rock upon +which the work was done. It is a singular fact that, although iron, +copper, gold and silver abound in the mountains in Arizona, no +tools, utensils or ornaments of these metals are found in the +mounds or ruins. Yet furnace-like structures of ancient origin have +been found, which appear to have been used for reducing ores, and +in and around which can be found great quantities of an unknown +kind of slag.</p> +<p>In many instances the hieroglyphic boulders have been found in +great heaps, of several hundred in number, as if many different +persons had contributed a piece of this strange writing to the +collection. These etched boulders have been found buried in the +ground with ollas containing the charred bones of human beings, and +could the writings on the boulders be deciphered, we would +undoubtedly learn of the virtues of the prehistoric deceased, just +as we do of a person who dies in the present day, when we read the +epitaph on a tombstone of the one who is buried beneath.</p> +<p>In opening some of the mounds, the investigator finds they are +made of the fallen walls of great adobe buildings, and as he digs +deeper he finds rooms of various dimensions, and which, in many +instances, have cemented walls and floors. In one instance there +were found the impressions of a baby's feet and hands, made, +presumably, as the child had crawled over the newly laid soft +cement. In another mound the cemented walls of a room were found +covered with hieroglyphics and rude drawings, which were thought to +represent stellar constellations.</p> +<p>To a certain extent, some of the pictured rocks tell us of part +of the daily life of this ancient race, for in a number of +instances the pictures picked into the rocks, although rudely +formed, are self-explanatory, and the ancient artist tells plainly +by his work what is meant. On the edge of a little valley in the +Superstition Mountains, there was found a great rock on which had +been etched many small animals, apparently representing sheep, and +at one side was the figure of a man, as if watching them. It may be +the ancient herder himself, sitting in the shadow of the great +rock, while his sheep were grazing in the valley below, has passed +away the time in making this rock picture. The hardy wild sheep +still found in the mountains of Arizona may be the remnants of +great bands formerly domesticated by these people.</p> +<p>The skeleton of the prehistoric man dug from beneath the +stalagmites in the cave of Mentone, France, and which set all the +scientific men of the world talking and thinking, gives proof of no +greater age than many of the skeletons, relics or bones of some of +these ancient mound and canal builders.</p> +<p>An incident illustrating the great antiquity of prehistoric man +in Arizona, is the following: In digging a well on the desert north +of Phoenix, at the depth of 115 feet from the surface a stone +mortar, such as the ancients used, was found standing upright, and +in it was found a stone pestle, showing the mortar had not been +carried there by any underground current of water, and that it had +not been disturbed from the position in which its ancient owner had +left it with the pestle in it. There is only one way to account for +this mortar and pestle. They had originally been left on what was +at that time the surface of the ground, and the slow wash from the +mountains had gradually, during unknown ages, raised the surface +for miles on every side to the extent of 115 feet.</p> +<p>The question is often asked, Will this hieroglyphic writing ever +be deciphered? The authors of the most ancient hieroglyphic +writings or markings seem to have had well-defined forms or marks, +which were in common use for this class of writing. Is it not most +reasonable that a race so far advanced in other ways would have +perfected a method of transmitting by marks of some kind their +records to those who might come after them? Again, where so much +system is shown in the use of symbols, it may be presumed that the +same mark, wherever used in the same position, carries with it a +fixed meaning, alike at all times. Having such a settled system of +marks, there must be a key to the thoughts concealed in writing, +and quite likely the key for deciphering these hieroglyphics will +sometime be found on one of the yet undiscovered hieroglyphic rocks +in the high mountains or in the mounds not yet examined. On the +other hand, there can be no key to the inferior class of +pictographs made by the people who came after the mound, canal and +city builders had disappeared, for the crudely marked forms of +reptiles, animals or similar things had a meaning, if any, varying +with each individual maker.</p> +<p>Who were these people who formed a great nation here in the +obscurity of the remote past? Were they the ancient Phoenicians, +who were not only a maritime but a colonizing nation, and who, in +their well-manned ships, might have found their way to the southern +coast of America ages since, and from thence journeyed north? Or +were they some of the followers of Votan or Zamna, who had wandered +north and founded a colony of the Aztecs? Whoever these people +were, and whichever way they came from, the evidences of the great +works they left behind them give ample proof that they were +superior and different from other races around them, and these +particular people may have been the "bearded white men," whom the +Indians had traditions of when Coronado's followers first came +through the Gila and Salt River valleys in 1526.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c19" id="c19">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>OUR GREAT WATERWAYS</h4> +<br /> +<p>Importance of Rivers to Commerce a Generation Ago--The Ideal +River Man--The Great Mississippi River and Its Importance to Our +Native Land--The Treacherous Missouri--A First Mate Who Found a +Cook's Disguise Very Convenient--How a Second Mate Got Over the +Inconvenience of Temporary Financial Embarrassment.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>During the last quarter of the century in which we write the +figures "1" and "8" in every date line, the steam railroad has, to +a very large extent, put out of joint the nose of the steamboat, +just as, at the present time, we are threatened with so complete a +revolution in travel and motive power as to warrant a prediction +that, long before another quarter of a century has passed, +electricity will take the place of steam almost entirely. But even +if this is so, old acquaintance should not be forgot, and every +citizen of the United States should feel that the prosperity of the +country is due, in very large measure, to the country's magnificent +waterways, and to the enterprise of the men who equipped river +fleets and operated them, with varying degrees of profit.</p> +<p>The true river man is not so conspicuous as he was in the days +when St. Louis, Cincinnati, Memphis and other important railroad +centers of to-day were exclusively river towns. The river man was a +king in those days. The captain walked the streets with as much +dignity as he walked his own deck, and he was pointed to by +landsmen as a person of dignity and repute. The mate was a great +man in the estimation of all who knew him, and of a good many who +did not know him. Ruling his crew with a rod of iron, and +accustomed to be obeyed with considerable and commendable +promptness, he adopted a tone of voice in general conversation +considerably louder than the average, and every one acquired a +habit of making way for him.</p> +<p>The levee in a river town, before the railroads came snorting +and puffing across country and interfering with the monopoly so +long enjoyed by the steamboat, was a scene of continuous turmoil +and activity. Sometimes, now, one sees on a levee a great deal of +hurrying and noise. But the busiest scenes of to-day sink into +insignificance compared with those which are rapidly becoming +little more than an indistinct memory. The immense cargoes of +freight of every description would be ranged along the river front, +and little flags could be seen in every direction.</p> +<p>These flags were not, perhaps, exactly evidence of the activity +of the schoolmaster, or of the prevalence of superior education. +They were, rather, reminders of the fact that a great majority of +the rank and file of river workers could read little, and write +less. To tell a colored roustabout twenty or thirty years ago to +fetch a certain cargo, labeled with the name of a particular boat +or consignee, would have been to draw from the individual addressed +a genuine old-time plantation grin, with some caustic observation +about lack of school facilities in the days when the roustabout +ought to have been studying the "three Rs," but was not. It was, +however, comparatively easy to locate a cargo by means of a flag, +and identification seldom failed, as the flags could be varied in +color, shape and size, so as to provide distinction as well as +difference.</p> +<p>Those who remember the busy levee scene, with the flag adornment +referred to, will agree that there was something picturesque as +well as noisy about the old river days, and will be inclined to +regret, and almost deplore, the fact that things are not, from a +river man's standpoint, what they were.</p> +<p>In no country in the world has railroad building been carried on +with so much enterprise as in our native land. Prior to the +enormous expenditure on track building and railroad equipment, +advantage had to be taken of the extraordinary opportunities for +navigation and transportation afforded by the great waterways of +the country. As railroads were naturally built in the East before +the West, the value of our Middle and Western waterways is +naturally best understood by the average reader, because they +continued to play an indispensable part in the transaction of +business of every character until quite a recent period.</p> +<p>The Eastern rivers are less magnificent in extent and volume +than those of the West, though many of them are picturesque and +attractive in the extreme. The Hudson has often been spoken of as +the "Thames of America," not because there is any resemblance +between the length of the two rivers upon which are situated the +two greatest cities of modern times. The simile is the result +rather of the immense number of costly family residences and summer +resorts built along the banks of both rivers.</p> +<p>In another chapter we say something of a trip down the +picturesque Hudson, whose banks are lined with historic landmarks +and points of pressing interest. We give an illustration of a +pleasure boat on the Hudson, which reminds one of many delightful +river trips taken at various periods, and also of the events of +national importance which centered around the river that is +crowded, year after year, with pleasure-seekers from the +overcrowded metropolis at its mouth.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0379.jpg" name="Steamer" id="Steamer"><img src= +"images/m0379t.jpg" alt="A Fin de Siecle Pleasure Steamer" /></a> +<h4>A Fin de Siecle Pleasure Steamer</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The Mississippi River is the largest and grandest in North +America. A few miles above St. Louis it is joined by the Missouri +River, and if the distance from the source of the latter to the +Gulf of Mexico be calculated, the longest river in the world is +found. At a considerable distance from the source of the Father of +Waters are the Falls of St. Anthony, discovered more than two +hundred years ago by enterprising pioneers, who thought they had +discovered the headwaters of the great river. The scenery of the +river at the falls and beyond them is very attractive, and in many +cases so beautiful as to be beyond verbal description. In many +other parts of the river the scenery is grand, though occasionally +there are long stretches of flat country which are inclined to +become monotonous and barren of poetic thought.</p> +<p>Of the entire river, Mr. L. U. Reavis writes +enthusiastically:</p> +<p>"The more we consider the subject," says this author, "the more +we are compelled to admit that the Mississippi is a wonderful +river, and that no man can compute its importance to the American +people. What the Nile is to Egypt, what the great Euphrates was to +ancient Assyria, what the Danube is to Europe, what the Ganges is +to India, what the Amazon is to Brazil--all this, and even more +than this, the Mississippi River is to the North American +Continent. In an earlier age men would have worshiped the +Mississippi, but in this age we can do better, we can improve it. +To this all our efforts should be directed, and we should +continually bear in mind that no other improvement, ancient or +modern, relating to the interests of commerce has ever commanded +the attention of men equal in importance to that of the Mississippi +River, so as to control its waters and afford ample and free +navigation from St. Paul to the Gulf of Mexico."</p> +<p>During the last few years, the agitation in favor of river +improvement has assumed very definite shape, and from time to time +large appropriations have been made by Congress for the purpose of +keeping the river navigable at all periods of the year. As long ago +as 1873, the Chairman of the Senate Committee on Transportation +Routes censured the Government for neglecting to thoroughly improve +the big rivers. A quarter of a century has nearly elapsed since +then, and, in the opinion of many competent river men, there is +still room for much improvement, not only in the river, but in the +method of arrangements for designing and carrying out the +improvements.</p> +<p>The Missouri River, the great tributary to the Mississippi, has +often been described as one of the most treacherous and aggressive +rivers in the universe. It seems to be actuated by a spirit of +unrest and a desire for change, so much so that the center of the +river bed frequently moves to the right or left so rapidly as to +wipe out of existence prosperous farms and homes. Sometimes this +erratic procedure threatens the very existence of cities and +bridges, and tens of thousands of dollars have been spent from time +to time in day and night work to check the aggression of the stream +and to compel it to confine itself to its proper limits.</p> +<p>The Mississippi proper brings down from the lakes to its +junction with the Missouri River clear water, in which the +reflection is so vivid, that the verdure on the banks gives it +quite a green appearance. The Missouri, on the other hand, is muddy +and turbulent, bringing with it even at low water a large quantity +of sand and sediment. At high water it brings with it trees and +anything else that happens to come within its reach, but at all +periods of the year its water is more or less muddy. At the +junction of the two rivers the difference in color of the water is +very apparent, and, strange to say, there is not a complete +intermingling until several miles have been covered by the current. +Under ordinary conditions, the western portion of the current is +very much darker in shade than the eastern, even twenty miles from +what is generally spoken of as the mouth of the Missouri.</p> +<p>The Muddy Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains. It is really +formed by the junction of three rivers--the Jefferson, the Gallatin +and the Madison. By a strange incongruity, the headwaters of the +Missouri are within a mile of those of the Columbia, although the +two rivers run in opposite directions, the Columbia entering the +Pacific Ocean and the Missouri finding an inlet to the Gulf of +Mexico via the Mississippi. At a distance of 441 miles from the +extreme point of the navigation of the head branches of the +Missouri, are what are denominated as the "Gates of the Rocky +Mountains," which present an exceedingly grand and picturesque +appearance. For a distance of about six miles the rocks rise +perpendicularly from the margin of the river to the height of 1,200 +feet. The river itself is compressed to the breadth of 150 yards, +and for the first three miles there is but one spot, and that only +of a few yards, on which a man can stand between the water and the +perpendicular ascent of the mountain.</p> +<p>At a distance of 110 miles below this point, and 551 miles from +the source, are the "Great Falls," nearly 2,600 miles from the +egress of the Missouri into the Mississippi River. At this place +the river descends by a succession of rapids, and falls a distance +of 351 feet in sixteen and one-half miles. The lower and greater +fall has a perpendicular pitch of 98 feet, the second of 19, the +third of 47 and the fourth of 26 feet. Between and below these +falls there are continuous rapids of from 3 to 18 feet descent. The +falls, next to those of Niagara, are the grandest on the +continent.</p> +<p>Below the "Great Falls" there is no substantial obstruction to +navigation, except that during the midsummer and fall months, after +the July rise, there is frequently insufficient water for +steamboating. This results from the fact that, although the +Missouri River drains a large area of country and receives many +tributaries, some of which are navigable for many hundreds of +miles, it passes for a great portion of its course through a dry +and open country, where the process of evaporation is very rapid. +The channel is rendered intricate by the great number of islands +and sandbars, and in many cases it is made exceptionally hazardous +by reason of countless snags.</p> +<p>Volumes have been written concerning the adventures of pioneers +and gold hunters, who went up the Missouri in advance of railroads +and even civilization, in order to trade with the Indians or to +search for yellow metal in the great hills in the unexplored +country, where so much in the way of easily acquired wealth is +looked for. Some of the wealthiest men in the West to-day have a +vivid recollection of the dangers they encountered on the voyage up +this river, and of the enemies they had to either meet or avoid. +Sometimes hostile Indians would attack a boat amid-stream from both +sides of the river, and when an attempt was made to bring gold or +costly merchandise down the river, daring attacks were often made +by white robbers, whose ferocity and murderous designs were quite +as conspicuous as those of the aboriginal tribes. Many a murder was +committed, and the seeds were sown for countless mysteries and +unexplained disappearances.</p> +<p>The Ohio River is another of the great tributaries of the +Mississippi. In years gone by the importance of this waterway was +enormous. The Mississippi itself runs through Minnesota, Wisconsin, +Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Kentucky, Tennessee, +Mississippi and Louisiana. The Ohio taps and drains a much older +country than many of these States, and hence its importance in the +days when Cincinnati was the great gateway of the West and a +manufacturing city of first importance.</p> +<p>The Ohio is a great river for more than a thousand miles, and +connects Pittsburg with Cairo, running through such important towns +as Louisville and Cincinnati. On this river some of the most +interesting events in river history have been enacted in the past. +Many a tragedy and many a comedy are included in its annals, and +even to-day, although paralleled, crossed and recrossed by +railroads, it is a most important highway of commerce.</p> +<p>The Tennessee River is a tributary of the Ohio, which it enters +so near the Mississippi as to have a very close connection with +that great river. Entering the Ohio at Paducah, Kentucky, the +Tennessee is one of the largest and most important rivers east of +the Mississippi. It is formed by the union of two rivers which rise +in the Allegheny Mountains and unite at Kingston, Tennessee. The +river then runs southwest through Alabama, and turning northward, +passes through portions of Tennessee and Kentucky. In length the +Tennessee exceeds 1,200 miles, and, with the exception of very +dangerous places here and there, it is strictly a navigable +river.</p> +<p>Running as it does, through a country not yet thoroughly +supplied with railroad accommodation, the Tennessee forms an +important connection between a number of small shipping points, +which would otherwise be cut off from commercial intercourse with +large centers. Hence the transportation facilities are good, and in +many respects remind one of old days when river traffic was +general. Boats run almost all the year around up this river as far +as Alabama points, and not only is a large and lucrative freight +business transacted, but pleasure and health-seekers are also +carried in large numbers.</p> +<p>Everything was not prosaic in river life in the old days. All of +us have heard of the great races on the Mississippi River between +magnificent steamers, and of the excitement on deck as first one +and then the other gained a slight advantage. Stories, more or less +reliable, have been told again and again of the immense sums of +money made and lost by speculators who backed their own boats +against all comers. Tricks and jokes also prevailed and continue up +to the present time. The passenger on a Tennessee River boat is +almost sure to be told how a very popular first mate escaped arrest +by disguising himself as a cook. The story is amusing enough to +bear repetition, and bereft of corroborative detail, evidently +designed to lend artistic verisimilitude to the narrative, it is as +follows:</p> +<p>The boat was detained at a landing at a small Kentucky town +where the laws against gambling were supposed to be very strict. +Some of the officers of the boat were determined to kill time by +staking a few dollars at poker, faro or something worse, and +inquiries were made in consequence as to where a game could be +found. These resulted satisfactorily from the gamblers' standpoint, +and the crowd took themselves to the appointed spot, taking with +them the very stout, good-natured, but not very speculative first +mate. The game was played in a small room at the rear of an almost +equally small restaurant. Everything went well for awhile, and +those who were winning thought they had everything the heart could +possibly desire. All at once one of the colored help came rushing +in with a notification that the place was being raided.</p> +<p>It was a case of every man for himself. As is usual in cases of +this kind, one or two got under the table, where of course they +were promptly found and arrested. Two others jumped out of the +window, into the arms of two deputies, who were standing there to +receive them. The mate, caught for the first time in his life in a +gambling resort, thought of a very good plan of escape. Snatching +up his hat and coat he walked into the kitchen, where he found a +good-natured colored lady hard at work stirring batter in +anticipation of some table luxury for a coming meal. With admirable +presence of mind the mate picked up an apron, tied it around him +and telling "mammy" to take a few minutes' rest as she was +evidently overtired, he seized her wooden spoon and went on +stirring the batter as though he had never done anything else in +his life.</p> +<p>In the meantime every other member of the party had been caught +and taken to the little frame building which answered the purpose +of jail and police-court combined. Various conjectures were +exchanged as to the fate of the mate, whose ignorance of the events +incidental to gambling raids was expected to prove very +inconvenient to him in a variety of ways. All anxiety on this score +was, however, thrown away. The old man acted his part so well that +when the raiders saw him laboriously at work with the wooden spoon +they concluded that he was a member of the establishment. In +consequence of this they let him alone, and when the raid was over +he replaced his hat and coat, with the indifference and nonchalance +of an experienced actor, and went quietly back to the boat.</p> +<p>Here he informed friends of the incarcerated individuals of the +fix they were in, and advised them to go to their release, +preferring himself to keep as far as possible from the +representatives of the law. Liberty was obtained by the payment of +considerable sums in the way of fines and costs, and although the +event took place some years ago, the way in which the inexperienced +gambler escaped, while his more hardened and experienced friends +were caught, is still a constant source of merriment among officers +and passengers.</p> +<p>It was while enjoying a delightful and distinctly sensational +trip on the Columbia River that the passengers were enlightened as +to a comparatively old trick, which was executed with the utmost +promptness and despatch by a young second mate. This young man was +never known to have any money. Generous in the extreme, and +heartily full of fun, he managed to get rid of his salary as +promptly as it was paid him, and his impecuniosity was a standing +joke among members of the crew and regular passengers. On one +occasion the boat met with an accident, and was tied up at a small +town for four or five days. The hero of the story, with a number of +other light-hearted individuals, naturally went ashore on pleasure +bent. They had what is generally called a good time, but what +little funds they had when they started were soon exhausted.</p> +<p>Two or three councils of war were held as to how a supply of +liquid refreshments, of a character not included in the temperance +man's bill of fare, could be obtained. Finally, the second mate +undertook to secure the needful without the expenditure of any +money. He borrowed a heavy overcoat belonging to one of the party, +and then hunted up two large wine bottles. One of these he filled +with water and securely corked. The other he took empty, and with +these in his pockets entered the saloon. Producing the empty bottle +he asked the bar-keeper how much he would charge for filling it, +and on hearing the amount told him to go ahead.</p> +<p>As soon as the bottle was filled and returned to the second +mate, he slipped it in his pocket, and in a very matter-of-fact +manner began to make arrangements for the liquidation of the debt, +at a convenient period. The saloon-man naturally resented any +discussion of this character, and told his customer to either pay +for the liquor or return it right away. Assuming an air of injured +innocence, our friend took out the bottle of water, handed it to +the barkeeper and said he "guessed he'd have to take it back." The +unsuspecting purveyor of liquor that both cheers and inebriates, +grumbled considerably, emptied the bottle of water into the +demijohn of whisky, handed back the bottle to the apparently +disconsolate seeker after credit, and told him to "get out."</p> +<p>Naturally, no second order was necessary. Five minutes later, +the entire party could have been seen sharing the contents of the +bottle which had not been emptied, but which they lost no time in +emptying. The trick answered its purpose admirably. When, about two +weeks later, the man who had played it was again in the town, he +called at the saloon to pay for the whisky. He was treated very +kindly, but hints were freely given as to the necessity of a keeper +accompanying him on his travels. In other words, the bar-keeper +declined distinctly to believe that he had been hoodwinked as +stated. This feature of the joke was, in the opinion of its +perpetrators, the most amusing feature of all, and it need hardly +be said that very little effort was made to disabuse the +unbelieving but somewhat over-credulous bar-keeper.</p> +<p>The Columbia River is one of the most interesting and remarkable +on the continent. Rising, as it does, quite near the source of the +Missouri River, it runs, by a very circuitous route, to the Pacific +Ocean, being in places very narrow, and in others abnormally wide. +The Dalles of the Columbia are known the world over. They are +situated some sixty or seventy miles west of the city of Portland, +and are within easy distance of the American Mount Blanc. They +extend from Dalles Station, a small town on the Union Pacific +Railroad, to Celilo, another station about fifteen miles farther +east. Between these two points the bed of the Columbia is greatly +reduced in width, and its boundaries are two huge walls of rock, +which rise almost perpendicularly from the water level. The width +of the chasm, through which the water rushes wildly, varies +considerably, but at no point in the western section does it exceed +130 feet, although on either side of the Dalles the width of the +river itself ranged from about 2,000 to much more than 2,500 +feet.</p> +<p>As the volume of water is enormous at this point, especially +after rain and much melting of snow, there is often a rise of fifty +feet in a few hours in the narrow channel of the Dalles. Sometimes +the rise exceeds seventy feet, and an effect most extraordinary in +character results. From many points along the river banks, Mount +Hood can be seen towering away up into the clouds. The bluffs +themselves are marvels of formation, very difficult to explain or +account for. When the water is low, there is an exposure of almost +vertical cliffs. The bluffs vary in height to a remarkable extent, +and the lower the water, the more grotesque the appearance of the +figures along them. When the water is very low, there is a cascade, +or waterfall, every few feet, presenting an appearance of +continuous uproar and froth, very attractive to the sightseer, but +very objectionable from the standpoint of navigation.</p> +<p>When the water is high, these cascades are lost sight of, and +the rocks which form them are covered with one raging torrent, +which seems inclined to dash everything to one side in its headlong +course towards the Pacific Ocean. Logging is a most important use +to which the Columbia River is put, and when immense masses of +timber come thundering down the Dalles, at a speed sometimes as +great as fifty miles an hour, all preconceived notions of order and +safety are set at naught. There is one timber shoot, more than +3,000 feet long, down which the logs rush so rapidly that scarcely +twenty seconds is occupied in the entire trip. The Dalles generally +may be described as a marvelous trough, and the name is a French +word, which well signifies this feature.</p> +<p>Farther down the river, and near the city of Portland, there are +some very delightful falls, not exceptionally large or high, but +very delightful in character, and full of contradictions and +peculiarities. Steamboating on the Columbia River, in its navigable +sections, is exceedingly pleasant and instructive. The river is the +largest in America which empties into the Pacific Ocean. For more +than 140 miles it is navigable by steamers of the largest kind, +while other vessels can get up very much higher, and nearer the +picturesque source. On some sections of it, glaciers of great +magnitude can be seen, and there are also many points concerning +which legend and tradition have been very busy. According to one of +these traditions, the Indians who formerly lived on the banks of +the river were as brave as the ancient Spartans and Greeks, though +if this is approximately correct, the law and argument of descent +must be entirely erroneous, for the Indians of this section to-day +rank among the meanest and most objectionable of the entire +country.</p> +<p>An artistic illustration is given of the "whaleback" steamer, +used principally on our Northern lakes. The whaleback varies from a +somewhat clumsy looking craft, resembling in appearance very much +the back of a whale, to the much more attractive and navigable +craft shown in the illustration. These whalebacks have a very +important part to play in internal navigation. It seems able to +withstand, readily, bad weather and rough water. Unlike most +vessels which are safe under these conditions, it requires very +little water to be safely navigated, and it can carry heavy loads +in six or eight feet of water.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0358.jpg" name="Whaleback" id="Whaleback"><img src= +"images/m0358t.jpg" alt="Whaleback Steamer on the Lakes" /></a> +<h4>Whaleback Steamer on the Lakes</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>The revival of the steamboat trade on our great rivers, and the +recovering from the railroads of at least a portion of the trade +stolen away, is a pet hobby among river men generally, and +especially among those whose parents taught them from the cradle up +the true importance of the magnificent internal waterways +bountifully provided for our native land by an all-wise Providence. +It is seriously proposed to attempt this revival by aid of +whaleback steamers, and if the project is carried out, the success +which will attend the effort is likely to agreeably surprise even +the most enthusiastic among those who are now advocating it.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c20" id="c20">CHAPTER XX.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>THROUGH THE GREAT NORTHWEST.</h4> +<br /> +<p>The Importance of Some of our Newest State--Romantic History of +Montana--The Bad Lands and their Exact Opposite--Civilization Away +Up in the Mountains--Indians who have Never Quarreled with White +Men--Traditions Concerning Mount Tacoma--Wonderful Towns of the +Extreme Northwest--A State Shaped like a Large Chair--The Falls of +Shoshone.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Within the last few years new States have been admitted into the +Union which, in themselves, form a magnificent empire. We allude to +the great Northwestern Territories which have become States within +the last decade, and which have added so much luster to the +escutcheon of our native land. The utmost ignorance prevails as to +these States, and as to the northwestern corner of the United +States proper, a term generally applied to this great Republic, +with the exception of Alaska.</p> +<p>Every now and again the report comes of a great forest fire in +the Northwest, and occasionally the world is horrified by reports +of a terrible calamity of this character, involving great loss of +life and property. Owing to this fact there is a tendency to look +on the northwestern tier of States as one huge forest, ever +offering a temptation to that terrible destructive agency--fire. +People who profess to have made tours through the country, add to +the complication by enlarging on this one characteristic, and +omitting all reference to the other features, in which the great +Northwest towers head and shoulders above competitors, and teaches +the entire world a lesson in productiveness, fertility, and, we may +add, industry.</p> +<p>The World's Fair served to very largely disabuse the public mind +concerning what is destined to become one of the wealthiest +sections of the United States. The elegant State buildings that +were erected on the shores of Lake Michigan, and the gorgeous +displays of fruits, grain, ore, and different products, must have +convinced the average visitor that there was a great deal more in +the far West and Northwest than he had dreamt of. Many were induced +in consequence of the information they received, to blend their +fortunes with the young States, and although the financial +condition of the country has not been calculated to expedite the +fulfillment of their Aladdin-like hopes, most of them have done +well enough to be able to congratulate themselves on the change in +the location and occupation.</p> +<p>We can only speak of some of the most remarkable features of +this great section, greater, indeed, than several Old World nations +combined. Helena is the capital of one of these new States, to +which is given the euphonic name of Montana. The name is very +appropriate, as it signifies "belonging to the mountains." The +Indians had a very similar name for the territory now included in +the State, and Judge Eddy called it the "Bonanza State" because of +its mining sensations, a name which has clung to it with much +fidelity ever since. The arms of the State are significant and +almost allegorical. The present is linked with the past by means of +a retreating buffalo, significant of the extermination of this +interesting and valuable species. The great mining resources of +Montana are shown by a miner's pick and shovel, and in the +rearground the sun is setting behind eminences of the Rocky +Mountains. Montana was first discovered by Canadians, some two +hundred years ago. The first permanent settlement was early in the +present century, and, until within the last fifty years, all goods +and utensils used in it were dragged up the Missouri River from St. +Louis, a distance of nearly 2,000 miles. When the war broke out, +the Territory was occupied almost entirely by Indians, with a few +daring fur traders and a number of missionaries, who, in exercise +of their duty, had no fear at all. The discovery of gold which took +place almost simultaneously with the firing of the first shot in +the conflict between the North and the South, brought thousands of +adventurers from all parts of the Union and introduced millions of +capital. Some of the mines turned out phenomenally successful, and +although there were the usual heart-burnings on account of +failures, the average of success was very great. The State's gold +mines have yielded fabulous sums, and more recently steps have been +taken to extract from the quartz and rock a full measure of wealth +that is to be found there.</p> +<p>Montana is a Northwestern State in fact as well as name. It is +situated on the high plateau between the Continental Divide and the +Bitter Root Range. Fully one-fifth of its area lies beyond the +Rocky Mountains, and its northern boundary is the snow-covered +region of Canada and British Columbia. The eastern portion of the +State, bordering upon the Dakotas, is for the most part prairie +land, rising rapidly in the direction of the west, and forming the +approach to the mighty Rockies. The western portion, bordering upon +Idaho, is much more mountainous in character. Some 50,000 square +miles of hilly country are to be seen here, many of the peaks +rising to heights exceeding 10,000 feet. The State alone is larger +in area than the entire British Islands, and it is infinitely +larger than the whole of New England. That it is a country of +magnificent distances, is shown from the fact that the northern +frontier equals in length the distance between the great seat of +learning and culture in Massachusetts and the capital city of the +short-lived Confederacy.</p> +<p>Although most of Montana is rich in either agriculture or +mineral, a considerable area is occupied by the notorious Bad +Lands. General Sully described these lands very accurately, or at +least aptly, when he said that they reminded him of "the other +place with the fires out." So many descriptions of the Bad Lands +have been given, that we need scarcely refer to them at great +length. The clay, rock and peculiar dust which lies all around this +territory becomes, on the slightest provocation, the nastiest kind +of quicksand. Nothing can thrive or prosper in the Bad Lands which, +however, are full of evidences of prehistoric life and which, +perhaps, at one time were the scenes of activity and even +prosperity.</p> +<p>In exact contrast to the Bad Lands is the Gallatin Valley, about +four hundred square miles in extent. It is stated to be one of the +most fertile spots in the world, and by common consent it has been +called the Egypt of Montana. A portion of it has been cultivated, +and its yield per acre has been found to be prodigious. At no great +distance from this fertile spot, two of America's most remarkable +rivers have their rise. The greatest of these is the Missouri, +which, measured from its source to final entrance into the Gulf of +Mexico along the bed of the Mississippi River, is really the +longest river in the world. Away up here in the mountains, the +Missouri, which subsequently becomes one of the most treacherous +and destructive rivers in the universe, runs through picturesque +cañons and over great gorges of rock, finally leaving the +State a great river, though still insignificant in comparison with +the volume it is to assume, and the drainage work it is to +accomplish farther away from the mighty hills among which it had +its source.</p> +<p>The Northern Pacific Railroad runs through this wonderful State, +with so great a future before it. Helena, the capital city of +Montana, was originally a mining camp, and early prophecies were +that it would not outlive the mining enthusiasm. These prophecies, +however, have proved entirely mistaken. It is no longer a mere +mining town, with rough, busy, uncultured men rushing hither and +thither in the eager pursuit of their daily avocation. It is now +not only the judicial capital of Montana, but it is also the great +center of educational advance. It has a number of very handsome +public buildings, and is the home of many men, who, having made +their fortunes in the mines of the new Northwest, have been so +impressed with the beauties of scenery and climate, that they have +decided to abide where at first they merely intended to sojourn. +Helena is more than 4,000 feet above the sea level, and its 20,000 +inhabitants are reputed to be worth more than $100,000,000. The +apostle of socialism or communism who suggested an equal division +among the 60,000,000 of our people of all the wealth of the nation, +would find little encouragement in this great mountain city, where +poverty, if not unknown, is very scarce.</p> +<p>Much more typical as a mining city is Butte. This is situated +upon a hill quite peculiarly located, and is reached by a ride +along the Silver Bow Valley. Close here is the wonderful Anaconda +mine. The mines in the neighborhood have a reputation for immense +yield, the annual extracts of gold, silver and copper being valued +at more than $33,000,000. The Anaconda smelter, built some twelve +years ago, is said to be the largest in the world, and the town +itself seems to literally talk mining by its streets, its houses, +its business, its habits and its people.</p> +<p>Missoula is the third largest city of Montana. Its site is a +splendid one for a city. The Hell Gate Cañon and River merge +into a magnificent plain, the foot of the noted Bitter Root Valley. +The Hell Gate River breaks out from the cañon and mountains +into the wide plain and sweeps majestically across the extreme +northern limit of it, hugging closely the Mission Range to the +north. At the western side of the valley the Bitter Root River +combines with the Hell Gate, and together, and now under the name +of the Missoula River, they flow westward between high mountains. +The northern end of the valley is perhaps six miles or more wide. +The great opening in the mountain is rather triangular in shape, +with the apex of the triangle many miles up the valley to the +south. Here is a city laid out and built up in perfect harmony with +its location, as is evidenced by the tasteful manner in which the +place is planned and the character of its business blocks and +residences. Telephones, electric lights, and water supply are found +even in the remote suburbs of Missoula.</p> +<p>The mountains literally hem them in. Immediately to the +northeast is a bare hill that is startling in its resemblance to an +animal. It is like a huge, recumbent elephant, the hind quarters of +which form the northern end of Hell Gate Cañon, around which +the railroad curves as it issues from the cañon. The +"Mammoth Jumbo," as it is appropriately known, reclines with head +to the north and trunk stretched out behind him. One eye is plainly +seen, and one huge shoulder is visible. Down in the south, sharp, +decisive, with a steep, rocky escarpment facing us, and a long +ridge descending from it, is Lolo Peak, of the Bitter Root Range, a +noted landmark. This overhangs Lolo Pass, through which Chief +Joseph came in his famous retreat from General Howard in 1877, +which terminated in the battle of the Bear Paw Mountains, October +5th, where the brave and able chieftain was captured with the +rest-of his tribe, when almost within reach of freedom just across +the Canadian border.</p> +<p>At the southern extremity of the valley on the banks of the +Bitter Root River, and with the range serving as an effective +background, is Fort Missoula, a pleasantly located military post. +Several interpretations of the meaning of the word "Missoula" are +given. Father Guidi, a priest of long residence in the country, +gave me what he considers the true one, which also indicates the +manner in which the Hell Gate Cañon and River were +christened. The spot where Missoula is located was once the scene +of conflict between the various tribes of Indians. The "Flatheads" +and "Blackfeet" were deadly enemies, and, presumably, may have +fought over this lovely spot. At any rate, the ground just at the +mouth of the Hell Gate Cañon was covered long ago with +skulls and human bones.</p> +<p>These Flathead Indians are noted for the fact that they have +never adopted a hostile attitude towards white people. They are +advanced in civilization, as readers of Chapter IX and its +accompanying illustration will have noted. Tradition states that +their religion demands that the head of every infant must be +flattened by means of a board before the bones harden sufficiently +to assume a shape. However this may be, none of the surviving +members of the tribe have particularly flat heads, and all deny +emphatically the statement that nature is ever interfered with in +the manner stated. These Indians call themselves "Selish," a name +apparently without reason or derivation. The Flathead Reservation +was formed about forty years ago. On three sides it is walled in by +high mountains, and it consists of about 2,240 square miles of +territory. The railway station, Arlee, is so named after the last +war chief of the Flatheads. Passengers are often amused by the +gaudily decked Indians who are seen at this station, which is quite +near the reservation.</p> +<p>An interesting story attaches to the Jocko River and +Reservation. It is stated that an Irishman named Jacob Finley +established a ranch on the river early in the present century. The +French Canadians who settled in the neighborhood and intermarried +with the Indians, called Finley by his Christian name with a +peculiar French pronunciation, which made it sound very like much +Jaco or Jocko--the latter name gradually becoming generally +adopted. It was quite natural to call the river and the valley +after the ranch owner, and the name finally became generally +accepted as correct. This man Finley left behind him a family of +seventeen, and before he had been dead many years his direct +descendants numbered within three or four of an even century.</p> +<p>The Indians called the stream the Nlka, an unpronounceable +combination of letters, resulting from a most interesting though +variously described event.</p> +<p>Mrs. Ronan, the well-known writer, tells an interesting story of +how names are given by Indians. Thus, her own daughter's name was +Isabel, but the Indians called her "Sunshine." In February, 1887, +the little girl was born. For some days prior to her birth the +weather had been gloomy in the extreme. Almost simultaneously with +the child's birth the sun, so long hidden under the clouds, burst +forth to gladden the heart of man. With one accord, the Indians +declared that the little one had brought sunshine with her, and +hence the name, which, as subsequent events have proved, was +exceptionally appropriate.</p> +<p>Accompanying this chapter is an illustration of Mount Tacoma. +This mountain is one of the most attractive, as well as lofty, in +the Northwest. As can easily be supposed, traditions without number +are connected with it. No greater mistake can be made than to +imagine that the Indians who are found in this region are naturally +atheistic, as well as ignorant. To the student of religion there is +rather an inherent belief in the Supreme Being among these people, +with very strong proofs of the truth of the divine revelation. One +of the traditions, told with much fervor and earnestness about +Tacoma, involves in it a Savior of mankind. With great reverence +and awe the good listener among the band of tourists is told that +at one period--legends are seldom very specific in the matter of +time or space--a Savior arrived in a copper canoe, his mission +being to save the Siwash Indians, who were spoken of as the chosen +people of the Great Unseen. That some prophet or missionary +certainly came to this region and preached appears to be evident +from the very definite survival of the doctrines taught by him. His +creed seems to have been a very apt blending of all that is best in +the teachings of Buddha, with many of the precepts of the "Sermon +on the Mount" added.</p> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0355.jpg" name="Tacoma" id="Tacoma"><img src= +"images/m0355t.jpg" alt="Two Views of Mount Tacoma" /></a> +<h4>Two Views of Mount Tacoma</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<p>Love to mankind, the evil of revenge, and the glories of +forgiveness form the principal features of the doctrine. The +legend, or tradition, goes on to say that so violent was the +opposition to this crusader, who attacked local institutions so +bitterly, that finally he was seized and nailed to a tree. This act +of crucifixion resulted from a final sermon, in which the wanton +destruction of human beings was denounced in terms of great +vehemence. As nine, instead of seven or three, is the general +number talked of in this section, it is not surprising that the +story should go on to state that after nine days the "Mysterious +One" was reanimated, and once more commenced his work of +reformation and tuition.</p> +<p>Nothing in connection with the story can be objected to. By some +it is supposed to be the result of casual immigration from the +regions of Palestine, to which also is attributed the story of the +flood.</p> +<p>Among nearly all the Indians of the Northwest there is a flood +story, or legend, and there must be hundreds of Noahs in the minds +of the story-tellers. We are told, for example, that when the Great +Spirit flooded the entire earth, there was not quite enough water +to cover the summit of Mount Tacoma. The man chosen to prevent the +human race from being entirely obliterated was warned in a dream, +or by some other means, to climb to the summit of this great +mountain, where he remained until the wicked ones below him were +annihilated, without a man, woman or child escaping. After the +flood was over and the waters began to recede, the Great Spirit +hypnotized or mesmerized this solitary human being, and created for +him a wife of exceptional beauty. Together these two recommenced +the battle of life, and, as the legend runs, every human being in +existence can trace his lineage to them.</p> +<p>The mountain is surely worth all that has been said about it. +Its great height has already been commented upon. Standing, as it +does, with its summit 14,444 feet above the sea level, it is +actually a sentinel for almost the entire State. Hazard Stevens, +the first man to climb Tacoma, reported that it was so called by +the Indians because the word means, in their vocabulary, +"mountain," and was given to Tacoma because it was a veritable +prince among hills. It was at one time called Rainier, after a +British lord, but the Indian name has generally prevailed.</p> +<p>Tacoma has been described by many tourists as a rival to the +most vaunted peaks of the Swiss Alps. As will be seen from the +illustrations, which are remarkably good ones, there is a dim +mistiness about the mountain. When the light is poor, there is a +peculiar, almost unnatural, look about the cloud-topped peak. When +the clouds are very white, the line of demarcation becomes faint in +the extreme, and it is very hard to distinguish one from the other. +Sometimes, for days together, the mountain is literally +cloud-capped, and its peak hidden from view. Those who are +fortunate enough to be able to appreciate the awful and unique in +history, never tire of gazing upon Tacoma. They are glad to inspect +it from every side. Some call it a whited sepulchre. There was a +time when it was anything but the calm, peaceful eminence of +to-day. Every indication points to the fact that it was once among +the most active volcanoes in existence.</p> +<p>There is a town, or rather city, of the same name as the +mountain. This is situated on Commencement Bay. It is under the +very shadow of the great mountain of which we have spoken, and +which seems to guard it against foes from inland. Fifteen years ago +it was a mere village, of scarcely any importance. It has rapidly +grown into a town of great importance. In 1873 the Northern Pacific +Railroad Company decided to make it the western terminus of their +important system. This resulted in renewed life, or rather in a +genuine birth to the place, which now has a population of 40,000 +people, and is an exceedingly wealthy and prosperous city. The +Tacoma Land Company, ably seconded by the railroad, has fostered +enterprise in this place in the most hearty manner, and now some of +the large buildings of the town, of the very existence of which +many Eastern people affected ignorance, are more than +magnificent--they are majestic.</p> +<p>Seattle is another and even more brilliant diamond in +Washington's crown. It is a great city, with a magnificent harbor, +its name being that of a powerful Indian chief who, when the town +was founded forty years ago, had things practically his own way. It +grew in importance very rapidly, but in 1889 one of the largest +fires of modern times destroyed $10,000,000 worth of property, +including the best blocks and commercial structures of the city. +People who had never seen Seattle at once assumed that the city was +dead, and speculation was rife as to what place would secure its +magnificent trade. Those who thus talked were entirely ignorant as +to the nature of the men who had made Seattle what it was. Within a +very few days the work of reconstruction commenced. The fire +hampered the city somewhat, and checked its progress. But Seattle +is better for the disaster, and stands to-day a monument to the +"nil desperandum" policy of its leaders.</p> +<p>Spokane Falls is another wonderful instance of Northwestern push +and energy. It is a very young city, the earliest records of its +founding not going back farther than 1878. When the census of 1880 +was taken, the place was of no importance, and received very little +attention at the hands of the enumerators. In 1890 it had a +population of some 20,000, and attracted the admiration of the +entire country by the progress it had made in the matter of +electricity. Its water power is tremendous, and taking full +advantage of this, electricity is produced at low cost and used for +every available and possible purpose.</p> +<p>The State of Washington, in which these three cities are +situated, borders upon the Pacific Ocean, and is one of the +greatest of our new States. The first modern explorer of the +territory was a Spaniard, followed a few years later by English +sailors. Just at the end of the last century, some Boston +capitalists, for there were capitalists even in those days, +although they reckoned their wealth by thousands rather than +millions, sent two ships to this section to trade with the Indians +for furs. One of these ships was the "Columbia," which gave the +name to the region, part of which still retains it, although the +section we are now discussing now owns and boasts of the name of +the "Father" of his and our country.</p> +<p>Washington became a State five years ago. It is a great mining +country, but is still more noted for its wonderful lumber +resources. The trade from Puget Sound is tremendous. One company +alone employs 1,250 men in saw mills and logging, and it is +responsible for having introduced improved machinery of every type +into the section. The early history of the great lumber business is +full of interest, and this is one point alone in which the advance +has been tremendous. Another great company cut up 63,000,000 feet +of lumber in one year, and shipped more than half of it out of the +country. White cedar of the most costly grade is very common in +Washington, and it is used for the manufacture of shingles, which +sell for very high prices, and are regarded as unusually and, +indeed, abnormally good. White pine of immense quantity and size is +also found. Some of the logs are so large that they are only +excelled by the phenomenal big trees of abnormal growth which are +found some hundreds of miles farther south on the great Pacific +Slope.</p> +<p>Idaho is another of the great States of the great Northwest. It +lies largely between the two States just described so briefly, and +its shape is so peculiar that it has been spoken of as resembling a +chair, with the Rocky Mountains and the Bitter Root Range as its +front seat and back. Another simile likens it to a right-angled +triangle, with the Bitter Root Range as its base. It is a vast +tableland, wedge shape in character, and may be said to consist of +a mass of mountain ranges packed up fold upon fold, one on top of +the other.</p> +<p>Three names were submitted to Congress when the Territory was +first named. They were Shoshone, Montana and Idaho. The last name +was chosen, finally, because it is supposed to mean "The sight on +the mountain." The more exact derivation of the name seems to be an +old Shoshone legend, involving the fall of some mysterious object +from the heavens upon one of the mountains. The scenery in this +State is varied in everything save in beauty, which is almost +monotonous. Bear Lake, one of its great attractions, is a +fisherman's paradise. Its waters extend twenty miles in one +direction and eight or nine miles in the other. This vast expanse +of water is one of the best trout fishing resorts in the world. +Although in a valley, Bear Lake is so high up in the mountains that +its waters are frozen up for many months in the year, the ice +seldom breaking up until well into April. At all times the water is +cold, and hence especially favorable for trout culture. Lake Pen +d'Oreilles is about thirty miles long and varies in width from an +insignificant three miles to more than fifteen. It is studded with +islands of great beauty and much verdure. Close by it is the +Granite Mountain, with other hills and peaks averaging, perhaps, +10,000 feet in height. The lake has an immense shore line, +extending as much as 250 miles. For fully a tenth of this distance +the Northern Pacific tracks are close to the lake, affording +passengers a very delightful view of this inland scene, which has +been likened to the world-renowned Bavarian lake, Königs +See.</p> +<p>The State is also well known on account of the reputation for +weird grandeur won by the Snake River, also known as the Shoshone. +This is a very rapid stream of water. By means of its winding +course it measures fully a thousand miles in Idaho alone, and +drains about two-thirds of the State. Near the headwaters of the +Snake River, in the proximity of Yellowstone Park, there are very +fertile bottoms, with long stretches of valley lands. The American +Falls plunge over a mass of lava about forty feet high, with a +railroad bridge so close that the roar of the water drowns the +noise of the locomotive. For seventy miles the Shoshone River runs +through a deep, gloomy cañon, with a mass of cascades and +many volcanic islands intervening. Then comes the great Shoshone +Falls themselves, rivaling in many respects Niagara, and having at +times even a greater volume of water. The falls are nearly a +thousand feet in width, and the descent exceeds two hundred feet. +Many writers have claimed that these falls have features of beauty +not equaled in any part of the world. According to one description, +they resemble a cataract of snow, with an avalanche of jewels +amidst solid portals of lava.</p> +<p>Bancroft, in summing up the great features of this State, says +very concisely that: "It was the common judgment of the first +explorers that there was more of the strange and awful in the +scenery and topography of Idaho than of the pleasing and +attractive. A more intimate acquaintance with the less conspicuous +features of the country revealed many beauties. The climate of the +valleys was found to be far milder than, from their elevation, +could have been expected. Picturesque lakes were discovered among +the mountains, furnishing in some instances navigable waters. Fish +and game abound. Fine forests of pine and firs cover the mountain +slopes, except in the lava region; and nature, even in this +phenomenal part of her domain, has not forgotten to prepare the +earth for the occupation of man, nor neglected to give him a +wondrously warm and fertile soil to compensate for the labor of +subduing the savagery of her apparently waste places."</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><a name="c21">CHAPTER XXI.</a></h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>IN THE WARM SOUTHEAST.</h4> +<br /> +<p>Florida and its Appropriate Name--The First Portions of North +America Discovered by White Men--Early Vicissitudes of its +Explorers--An Enormous Coast Line--How Key West came to be a great +Cigar Town--The Suwanee River--St. Augustine and its World-Renowned +Hotel--Old Fort Marion.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>Florida is the name given to one of the least known States in +the Union. Ponce de Leon was the godfather of this southeastern +corner of our native land. Its baptism took place in a remote +period. The day of the event was Easter Sunday, which in the +Spanish language is called Pascua Floria, which is literally +interpreted "The Flowery Festival." Almost by accident, therefore, +Florida received a name which is singularly appropriate and well +chosen. From end to end, in either direction, there is a profusion +of semi-tropical beauty and of flowers, some of them entirely +peculiar to the immediate vicinity. There is an abundance of fruit +as well, and frequently the blossoms on the fruit trees make a +lovely flower show in themselves.</p> +<p>The State arms are very peculiar and appropriate. The main +figure is that of an Indian lying upon a bank, scattering flowers +around him. In the distance the sun is setting amid beautiful +hills. In the center there is a river with a steamboat upon it, and +with a large cocoanut tree growing by the side. The State's motto +is one which has been adopted by many communities, but which is +ever welcome for the purpose--"In God We Trust."</p> +<p>In regard to its climate, Florida can offer a great deal of +variety. Consumptives by the tens of thousand have sought a renewed +lease of life in the warmest sections of the State, and many have +come back greatly benefited. The winters are of the Indian summer +order, being singularly dry, healthy and free from dust. The Gulf +Stream adds from five to ten degrees to the temperature in cold +weather, and in the southern section the temperature rarely gets +below freezing point. The exceptionally cold spell of 1894-95 may +be quoted as quite an exception to the general rule, and the heavy +loss to growing fruits was as great a surprise as it was a +loss.</p> +<p>Florida has the honor of being the first portion of North +America to be discovered by white people. Ponce de Leon, whose very +name is suggestive of romance and poetry, explored a section of the +country in the year 1513, when he proclaimed the sovereignty of +Spain over it. In 1527, a Spanish company of soldiers attempted to +drive out the native inhabitants. The attempt failed, but another +one some fourteen years later was more successful. Spain was not +given a clear title to the peninsula without protest. French +Huguenots built Fort Caroline on St. John's River at about the +middle of the century. Shortly after this enterprise, a Spanish +fleet surprised and annihilated the pioneers, upon whose graves +they placed the inscription, "Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans." +This brutal attempt to give a religious aspect to the murder was +resented very soon after. A French expedition captured the fort, +hung the garrison one after the other, announcing that they did so, +and hanged the ruffians "Not as Spaniards, but as traitors, thieves +and murderers."</p> +<p>West Florida was settled at the close of the Seventeenth +Century, and in 1763 the territory now included in the State was +ceded to Great Britain in return for Cuba. Colonization followed, +and a very large number of British Tories settled in the country. +In 1814, the United States seized portions of the country, and four +years later it became evident that European rule must cease in it. +When in 1821 Spain ceded this territory to the United States, the +number of white inhabitants was barely 600, although there were +fully 4,000 Seminoles residing in it.</p> +<p>The Seminole War commenced in 1835, and continued for seven +years. The war cost some $20,000,000, and over 1,500 American +soldiers lost their lives during the campaign. Over 30,000 troops +were engaged in the conflict, and the Indians by taking advantage +of their knowledge of the country, held out against superior force +for an extraordinary length of time. Gradually the savages were +driven south, and at last the Seminoles were overpowered. Those who +survived were for the most part sent west of the Mississippi River. +A few are still found, however, on a reservation some fifteen miles +from Fort Pierce on Indian River.</p> +<p>When the Southern States seceded, Florida went with them. In +1864, General Seymour led 7,000 troops nearly as far as Lake City. +Jacksonville remained under Federal control, but the State +fortunately escaped being made a battle-ground to any extent +between the opposing forces.</p> +<p>Florida has a very interesting geological record. It was +evidently founded on coral reefs, and the formations are so recent +that few minerals are found. Phosphate rock is one of the most +remarkable natural productions of the State, and the actual value +of this has not yet been thoroughly ascertained. The State itself +is naturally divided into two sections, the East and the West. East +Florida includes a long peninsula, and extends westward to the +Suwanee River, concerning which the negro melodist delights to +sing. Western Florida is more inland in character. The measurements +of the State are peculiar. Thus it is 700 miles from the Perdido +River to Cape Sable. From the Atlantic to the extreme west the +distance is about 400 miles, and from north to south the distance +is slightly greater. The peninsula itself averages rather less than +100 miles in width throughout. Florida naturally possesses an +enormous coast line. Of this nearly 500 miles is on the Atlantic +seaboard, with some 700 miles on the Gulf of Mexico. Harbors abound +on every side, and when Florida becomes a manufacturing State as +well as a fruit-growing one, its resources for exporting will be an +immense advantage to it in overcoming competition and +opposition.</p> +<p>This coast line makes sea fishing one of the most profitable +occupations in the State. About 10,000 men are kept constantly +employed in this work. Some of the fish found here are choice and +costly delicacies, and include red snapper, pompano, Spanish +mackerel and sea trout. Of turtle there is an abundance, and tarpon +fishing provides amusement to those who are more strictly +sportsmanlike in disposition. Fishing for sponges is also a fairly +remunerative occupation, which always excites much interest when +watched by visitors from other States. Key West alone sends away +sponges worth $500,000 every year, two great capitals of Europe +being the best customers.</p> +<p>Key West is, however, better noted for its cigars. It is +situated on what was originally called Bone Reef by the Spaniards, +on account of great quantities of human bones being found on it by +the early explorers. Eighty years ago, a number of New England +fishermen located at Key West, which is about sixty miles from +Florida proper and about ninety miles from Havana. The great +revolution in the nature of the town's business and habits was +brought about by the settlement in it, less than a quarter century +ago, of a large band of Cuban exiles. These brought with them the +secrets of the manufacture of cigars of the highest grade. They at +once set about establishing factories as large as their means +allowed, and the business has grown so rapidly that there are now +facilities for manufacturing nearly 150,000,000 cigars every year. +To the man who appreciates the difference between good and bad +cigars it is hardly necessary to say that in quality, as well as +quantity, the product of this Spanish-American island has +progressed.</p> +<p>The harbor of Key West is the ninth port of entry in the +country. It is so naturally impregnable that it escaped capture +during the Civil War, when the Gulf Coast ports were a special +source of attack and envy. Legend and history twine around the +harbor stories of thrilling interest, many of which have formed the +plots for successful and celebrated novels. The town has peculiar +but attractive streets, with tropical trees on both sides. Seven +miles distant is Key West, the most extreme southern point of +United States territory. From the immense light-house pier the +distance to the island of Cuba is less than eighteen miles.</p> +<p>Returning to the inland, we may spend a few minutes</p> +<center><tt>'Way down 'pon de Suwanee +Ribber, <br /> +Far, far +away-- <br /> + +Dare's wha' my heart is turnin' ebber--<br /> +Dare's wha' de ole folks +stay. </tt></center> +<br /> +<br /> +<p>This river, as we have seen, forms the western boundary of +Eastern Florida. It is a very romantic stream, running through a +country of surpassing beauty, with tropical trees and undergrowth +coming right to the water's edge. It enters Florida from Southern +Georgia, and runs through a country which varies from forest to +plain and from upland to valley. Along its banks there are a number +of little Southern homes, few of them boasting of the magnificence +of which we often read, but all of them peaceful and attractive. Of +one of these we give an illustration. At first glance they may not +appear to be anything very remarkable about the little house and +its surroundings, but on second thoughts and glances something more +than poetical will be discovered. The old negro ballad from which +we have quoted above gives in its lines a charming idea of the +river and of the memories and thoughts which cling to it. Excursion +parties are very frequent along the river. Some indulge in hunting, +and take advantage of the profusion of game on every hand. Others +prefer to indulge in peaceful reverie and to think only of the +quaint old folks, who, as we are told in the song, still stay in +the vicinity.</p> +<p>The Ocklawaha River resembles the Suwanee in many respects. +Steamboats run along it for a considerable distance, and there is +seldom difficulty in securing passengers. It is said that there are +more alligators to a hundred square feet of water, in sections of +this river, than can be found in any other water in the world. From +the deck of a passenger steamer it is quite interesting to watch +the peculiar proceedings of these dangerous creatures, and many +conjectures are exchanged as to what would happen in the event of +any one of the watchers falling overboard. On the banks of the +river, cedar groves are frequently seen. Florida supplies the world +with the wood required for lead pencils, and the inroads made into +her cedar forests for this purpose threaten to eventually rob the +State of one of its most unique features. Cypress, a wood which is +just beginning to be appreciated at its true worth, is also +abundant in this vicinity, and many of the much talked-of cypress +swamps are passed. Pineapples are also seen growing vigorously, and +also the vanilla plant, which resembles tobacco in its leaf. +Vanilla leaf is gathered very largely, and sold for some purpose +not very clearly defined or explained.</p> +<p>The banyan tree has to be seen to be understood. It is really an +exclusive product of Florida and is found in the Key West country, +where sea island cotton will grow all the year around, indifferent +to changes of season. The banyan is almost a colony of trees in +itself, having, apparently, a dozen trunks in one. All the upper +boughs are more or less united, and the old proverb of "In union +there is strength," seems to have in it a unique illustration and +confirmation.</p> +<p>Lake Worth is one of the prettiest lakes in the South. It is a +very beautiful sheet of water, broken only by Pitts' Island, which +is located near its northern end. The most useful and desirable +products of the North have here a congenial home, alongside those +most loved in the region of the equator. A New Englander may find +his potatoes, sweet corn, tomatoes and other garden favorites, and +can pluck, with scarcely a change in his position, products that +are usually claimed as Brazilian. He finds in his surroundings, as +plentiful and as free as the water sprinkling before him, such +strange neighbors as coffee, the tamarind, mango, pawpa, guava, +banana, sapadillo, almond, custard apple, maumec apple, grape +fruit, shaddock, Avadaco pear, and other equally new +acquaintances.</p> +<p>And these are all neighbors, actual residents, natives of the +soil, not imported immigrants or exacting visitors to be tenderly +treated. Giant relatives, equally at home, are the rubber tree, +mahogany, eucalyptus, cork tree and mimosa. All these, within forty +hours' travel of New York, to be reached in winter by an all-rail +trip, and to be enjoyed in a climate that is a perpetual May. It +was but a few years ago (less than a dozen) that the beauties of +Lake Worth were at first dimly reported by venturesome sportsmen, +who had gazed upon its unspeakable loveliness.</p> +<p>To-day the taste and labor of wealthy capitalists from East and +from West, have lined its fair shores with elegant homes. One of +these, the McCormick Place, has for the past two years been famous +for its wondrous beauty. It is situated at Palm Beach, on the +eastern shore of the lake, and faces westward or inland. It thus +receives the cool air from the lake and the breezes from the +Atlantic, which is but a stroll distant. The entire estate +comprises 100 acres, all under high cultivation. It has a water +front on both lake and ocean of 1,200 feet. In this lovely spot Mr. +McCormick built a castle, so handsomely finished, inside and out, +so tastefully designed and so elegantly furnished, that one would +imagine he expected to entertain royalty within its walls.</p> +<p>It is said that nowhere on the continent is so great a variety +of vegetable growth presented in one locality, as is here to be +seen in the full perfection of lusty growth. The cacti at this +point are marvels of variety and beauty. One's idea of what a +cactus is can never be complete until one has witnessed a scene +such as this, and a collection of this magnitude. The fruit trees +form a mass of groves. In some of these, huge cocoanuts tower away +above all other growth, while alongside of these monarchs of arbory +culture there are groves of dwarf trees, less tremendous but quite +as interesting.</p> +<p>This region has been described as a mental quicksand. There is +something in the atmosphere which makes the most industrious man +contentedly idle. Here the nervous, irritable, fussy individual, +who for years has never known what rest meant, and who has fidgeted +when he could not work, finds himself relaxing, against his will, +into a condition of what a celebrated statesman described as +"innocuous desuetude." The balminess of the air, which is at once +warm and invigorating and bracing, without being severe, brings +about a natural feeling of rest. The fascination which this creates +soon becomes overpowering. The longer the visitor remains the more +completely and hopelessly does he give away to his feelings, until +at last he only tears himself away by a painful effort.</p> +<p>Biscayne Bay stands at the terminus of the peninsula of Florida, +and at the extreme southeastern end of the United States. The +visitor who stands here is on what is frequently called the great +projecting toe of the Union. South of him there are a number of +islands, but of the main land there is no more. The bay is almost a +lake. It sets well into the coast, but is not quite enclosed by +land. It is between five and ten miles wide and is forty miles +long. A score of little inlets feed it from the ocean. The water is +blue and clear and of no great depth, making the lake one of the +finest cruising places in the world. All along the shores there are +picturesque little settlements, all of them distinctly Southern in +their appearance, and concerning each of which the traveler can +hear legend without number.</p> +<p>St. Augustine is perhaps the most talked-about city in Florida. +It is a quaint old Spanish city with a great history. The evidences +of the past seem to be disappearing rapidly, the retreat being +forced by the introduction of modern ideas and immense sums of +modern capital. Memorial Church is one of the features of the town, +and behind it the traveler sees, as he approaches, turrets and +towers of every shape and size. The pavements are almost uniformly +good, and as one is driven along the streets for the first time, +every turning seems to bring to light some new wonder and some +unexpected beauty. Hedges formed of oleanders, arbor vitae, larches +and cedars, to say nothing of masses of roses of all kinds, upset +all his preconceived notions of tree, shrub and flower growth, and +convince him that he has come to a land flowing indeed with milk +and honey, where winters are practically unknown.</p> +<p>The Hotel Ponce de Leon is naturally the great object of his +search, and if his purse affords it the tourist certainly stops +here, if only for the sake of saying that he has slept, for one +night at least, in this extraordinary and marvelously magnificent +hostelry. If the Ponce de Leon were in New York, Philadelphia, St. +Louis or Chicago, it would excite murmurs of admiration on every +hand. But its existence would not be regarded as something +extraordinary, as it certainly is in a town of the size of St. +Augustine. The enterprise which led to its construction has been +commented on again and again, and the liberal methods of management +have also been the subject of much comment. As the carriage passes +through the arched gateway into the enclosed court, blooming all +the year round with fragrance and beauty, the tourist begins to +apologize mentally for the skepticism in which he has indulged, +concerning this wonder of the age. After mounting several +successive terraces of broad stone steps, he finds himself at last +before the magnificent front of the great hotel. Before him there +is the grand doorway, surmounted by the oft-described arch of +Spanish shields in terra cotta. All around there are broad +galleries and wide windows, with very costly, artistic cappings. +The galleries are supported by massive but neat pillars, and the +shaded nooks and quiet corners are full of romantic influence.</p> +<p>Everything is reminiscent of old Spain, although the +magnificence and architecture is often that of the extreme East. +There are five elegantly decorated salons, in which there are +tables of costly onyx, and on whose walls there are paintings of +great splendor. On the ceiling above him exquisite frescoes tell +the story of the old cavalier after whom the hotel is named, and of +his patient and faithful search for the fabled fountain of youth +which no one has yet found. At dinner the visitor is almost +appalled by the magnificence of the service, and his appetite is +apt to be injured by his reflections as to the cost of the silver +and porcelain set before him. Sometimes as many as a thousand +guests sit down together, and the service seems to be perfect for +an unlimited number of visitors.</p> +<p>This great hotel was erected like the great temple described in +scripture, practically without hammer or nails. Being molded from +concrete, it is practically proof against weather and time, and it +is fireproof in a sense of the term far more literal than that +generally adopted in large cities. There is no sham work, from +basement to tower. Italian marble, terra cotta and Mexican onyx are +the principal materials used, and nothing "equally as good" is +tolerated.</p> +<p>The view from St. Augustine can hardly be excelled in any part +of the world. The old city gates remind the tourist of Spanish +stories and Oriental fables. Net far distant he sees Fort Marion, +described as the oldest fortification in the United States. It was +built by one of the Spanish Kings at great expense, and, according +to the opinion of experts, is likely to survive many generations to +come. It is constructed of cocquina cement, found only in Florida, +and which seems to be everlasting in character.</p> +<p>Fort Marion has been the scene in years gone by of countless +events of thrilling interest, and the student of history, who sees +it for the first time, delights to conjure up reminiscences +concerning it. In the old Indian war days there were several +massacres at this point, in which the Indians occasionally outdid +themselves in deeds of blood. About twenty years ago, the old fort +was turned into an Indian prison, and to it were taken some of the +worst and apparently most irreclaimable members of Indian tribes. +This included Mochi, the Indian squaw who seemed to regard murder +as a high art and a great virtue, "Rising Bull," "Medicine Water," +"Big Mocassin" and other red ruffians who had proved themselves +beyond all hope of reformation. The watch-tower of the fort stands +high above surrounding buildings, and is probably one of the oldest +watch-towers and light-houses in the world.</p> +<p>The old sea-wall runs from the fort past the historical old +slave-market and the plaza, where cool breezes can be obtained on +the hottest days. There is the cathedral, the oldest place of +worship in the country, if the local historians are to be believed, +with its chime of bells which first called the faithful to worship +more than 200 years ago. On the east the smooth waters of the +attractive bay rivet the attention of every visitor who has in him +a particle of poetry, or appreciation of the beautiful. Not far +away is Anastasia Island. At the north of Mananzas Bay is the spot +where Sir Francis Drake, one of England's first admirals, landed, +and close by is the oft-described lighthouse, with its old Spanish +predecessor just north of it.</p> +<p>Not far from St. Augustine is the Carmonna vineyard. Here there +are seventy-five acres of land covered with grape vines. The second +year these vines yielded two and a half tons of grapes per acre. +The sea of leaves, responding to the gentle breeze which generally +blows up, presents an appearance of green very restful to the eye, +and opens up new ideas as to color and expanse. All around Moultrie +there are acres and acres of white Niagara grapes, and in a few +years Florida shipments of this fruit will be enormous.</p> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0361.jpg" name="Southern" id="Southern"><img src= +"images/m0361t.jpg" alt="A Restful Southern Home" /></a> +<h4>A Restful Southern Home</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0362.jpg" name="June" id="June"><img src= +"images/m0362t.jpg" alt="An Afternoon in June" /></a> +<h4>An Afternoon in June</h4> +</div> +<hr /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href= +"images/m0363.jpg" name="Tropical" id="Tropical"><img src= +"images/m0363t.jpg" alt="A Tropical Scene" /></a> +<h4>A Tropical Scene</h4> +</div> +<hr /> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10857 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/10857-h/images/m0355.jpg b/10857-h/images/m0355.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 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