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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:35:10 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:35:10 -0700 |
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diff --git a/10770-0.txt b/10770-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e8ad92 --- /dev/null +++ b/10770-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,21950 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10770 *** + +THE FORMER PHILIPPINES THRU FOREIGN EYES + +Edited by Austin Craig + + + + + +Preface + +Among the many wrongs done the Filipinos by Spaniards, to be charged +against their undeniably large debt to Spain, one of the greatest, +if not the most frequently mentioned, was taking from them their +good name. + +Spanish writers have never been noted for modesty or historical +accuracy. Back in 1589 the printer of the English translation of Padre +Juan Gonzalez de Mendoza's "History of the Great and Mighty Kingdom of +China" felt it necessary to prefix this warning: * * * the Spaniards +(following their ambitious affections) do usually in all their writings +extoll their own actions, even to the setting forth of many untruthes +and incredible things, as in their descriptions of the conquistes of +the east and west Indies, etc., doth more at large appeare. + +Of early Spanish historians Doctor Antonio de Morga seems the single +exception, and perhaps even some of his credit comes by contrast, +but in later years the rule apparently has proved invariable. As +the conditions in the successive periods of Spanish influence were +recognized to be indicative of little progress, if not actually +retrogressive, the practice grew up of correspondingly lowering the +current estimates of the capacity of the Filipinos of the conquest, so +that always an apparent advance appeared. This in the closing period, +in order to fabricate a sufficient showing for over three centuries +of pretended progress, led to the practical denial of human attributes +to the Filipinos found here by Legaspi. + +Against this denial to his countrymen of virtues as well as +rights, Doctor Rizal opposed two briefs whose English titles +are "The Philippines A Century Hence" and "The Indolence of the +Filipino." Almost every page therein shows the influence of the young +student's early reading of the hereinafter-printed studies by the +German scientist Jagor, friend and counsellor in his maturer years, +and the liberal Spaniard Comyn. Even his acquaintance with Morga, +which eventually led to Rizal's republication of the 1609 history +long lost to Spaniards, probably was owing to Jagor, although the +life-long resolution for that action can be traced to hearing of Sir +John Bowring's visit to his uncle's home and the proposed Hakluyt +Society English translation then mentioned. + +The present value and interest of these now rare books has suggested +their republication, to make available to Filipino students a course +of study which their national hero found profitable as well as to +correct the myriad misconceptions of things Philippine in the minds +of those who have taken the accepted Spanish accounts as gospel truths. + +Dr. L. V. Schweibs, of Berlin, made the hundreds of corrections, +many reversing the meanings of former readings, which almost +justify calling the revised Jagor translation a new one. Numerous +hitherto-untranslated passages likewise appear. There have been +left out the illustrations, from crude drawings obsolete since +photographic pictures have familiarized the scenes and objects, +and also the consequently superfluous references to these. No other +omission has been allowed, for if one author leaned far to one side in +certain debatable questions the other has been equally partisan for the +opposite side, except a cerement on religion in general and discussion +of the world-wide social evil were eliminated as having no particular +Philippine bearing to excuse their appearance in a popular work. + +The early American quotations of course are for comparison with the +numerous American comments of today, and the two magazine extracts +give English accounts a century apart. Virchow's matured views have +been substituted for the pioneer opinions he furnished Professor Jagor +thirty years earlier, and if Rizal's patron in the scientific world +fails at times in his facts his method for research is a safe guide. + +Finally, three points should constantly be borne in mind: (1) allowance +must be made for the lessening Spanish influence, surely more foreign +to this seafaring people than the present modified Anglo-Saxon +education, and so more artificial, i.e., less assimilable, as well +as for the removal of the unfavorable environment, before attempting +to from an opinion of the present-day Filipino from his prototype +pictured in those pages; (2) foreign observers are apt to emphasize +what is strange to them in describing other lands than their own and to +leave unnoted points of resemblance which may be much more numerous; +(3) Rizal's judgment that his countrymen were more like backward +Europeans than Orientals was based on scientific studies of Europe's +rural districts and Philippine provincial conditions as well as of +oriental country life, so that it is entitled to more weight than +the commoner opinion to the contrary which though more popular has +been less carefully formed. + +University of the Philippines, + +Manila, March 11th, 1916. + + + +Contents + +Jagor's Travels in the Philippines 1 + +(The out-of-print 1875 English translation corrected from the original +German text) + +State of the Philippines in 1810. By Tomas de Comyn 357 + +(William Walton's 1821 translation modernized) + +Manila and Sulu in 1842. By Com. Chas. Wilkes, U.S.N. 459 + +(Narrative of U. S. Exploring Expedition 1838-42, Vol. 5) + +Manila in 1819. By Lieut. John White, U.S.N. 530 + +(From the "History of a Voyage to the China Sea") + +The Peopling of the Philippines. By Doctor Rudolf Virchow 536 + +(O. T. Mason's translation; Smithsonian Institution 1899 Report) + +People and Prospects of the Philippines. By An English Merchant, +1778, and A Consul, 1878 550 + +(From Blackwood's and the Cornhill Magazine) + +Filipino Merchants of the Early 1890s. By F. Karuth, F.R.G.S. 552 + + + + +The Former Philippines thru Foreign Eyes + +PART I + +Jagor's Travels in the Philippines + + +CHAPTER I + + +[Difference from European time.] When the clock strikes twelve in +Madrid, [1] it is 8 hours, 18 minutes, and 41 seconds past eight +in the evening at Manila; that is to say, the latter city lies 124° +40' 15'' to the east of the former (7 hours, 54 minutes, 35 seconds +from Paris). Some time ago, however, while the new year was being +celebrated in Madrid, it was only New Year's eve at Manila. + +[Magellan's mistake in reckoning.] As Magellan, who discovered the +Philippines in his memorable first circumnavigation of the globe, +was following the sun in its apparent daily path around the world, +every successive degree he compassed on his eastern course added +four minutes to the length of his day; and, when he reached the +Philippines, the difference amounted to sixteen hours. This, however, +apparently escaped his notice, for Elcano, the captain of the only +remaining vessel, was quite unaware, on his return to the longitude +of his departure, why according to his ship's log-book, he was a day +behind the time of the port which he had reached again by continuously +sailing westward. [2] [3] + +[Change to the Asian day.] The error remained also unheeded in the +Philippines. It was still, over there the last day of the old year, +while the rest of the world was commencing the new one; and this state +of things continued till the close of 1844, when it was resolved, +with the approval of the archbishop, to pass over New Year's eve for +once altogether. [4] Since that time the Philippines are considered +to lie no longer in the distant west, but in the far east, and are +about eight hours in advance of their mother country. The proper field +for their commerce, however, is what is to Europeans the far west; +they were colonized thence, and for centuries, till 1811, they had +almost no other communication with Europe but the indirect one by +the annual voyage of the galleon between Manila and Acapulco. Now, +however, when the eastern shores of the Pacific are at last beginning +to teem with life, and, with unexampled speed, are pressing forward to +grasp their stupendous future, the Philippines will no longer be able +to remain in their past seclusion. No tropical Asiatic colony is so +favorably situated for communication with the west coast of America, +and it is only in a few matters that the Dutch Indies can compete with +them for the favors of the Australian market. But, [Future in American +and Australian trade.] on the other hand, they will have to abandon +their traffic with China, whose principal emporium Manila originally +was, as well as that with those westward-looking countries of Asia, +Europe's far east, which lie nearest to the Atlantic ports. [5] [6] + +[Commercially in the New World.] When the circumstances mentioned +come to be realized, the Philippines, or, at any rate, the principal +market for their commerce, will finally fall within the limits of +the western hemisphere, to which indeed they were relegated by the +illustrious Spanish geographers at Badajoz. + +[The Pope's world-partitive.] The Bull issued by Alexander VI, [7] +on May 4, 1493, which divided the earth into two hemispheres, decreed +that all heathen lands discovered in the eastern half should belong +to the Portuguese; in the western half to the Spaniards. According to +this arrangement, the latter could only claim the Philippines under +the pretext that they were situated in the western hemisphere. The +demarcation line was to run from the north to the south, a hundred +leagues to the south-west of all the so-called Azores and Cape +de Verde Islands. In accordance with the treaty of Tordesillas, +negotiated between Spain and Portugal on June 7, 1494, and approved +by Julius II, in 1506, this line was drawn three hundred and seventy +leagues west of the Cape de Verde Islands. + +[Faulty Spanish and Portuguese geography.] At that time Spanish and +Portuguese geographers reckoned seventeen and one-half leagues to a +degree on the equator. In the latitude of the Cape de Verde Islands, +three hundred and seventy leagues made 21° 55'. If to this we add +the longitudinal difference between the westernmost point of the +group and Cadiz, a difference of 18° 48', we get 40° 43' west, and +139° 17' east from Cadiz (in round numbers 47° west and 133° east), +as the limits of the Spanish hemisphere. At that time, however, +the existing means for such calculations were entirely insufficient. + +[Extravagant Spanish claims thru ignorance.] The latitude was measured +with imperfect astrolabes, or wooden quadrants, and calculated from +very deficient tables; the variation of the compass, moreover, was +almost unknown, as well as the use of the log. [8] Both method and +instruments were wanting for useful longitudinal calculations. It was +under these circumstances that the Spaniards attempted, at Badajoz, +to prove to the protesting Portuguese that the eastern boundary line +intersected the mouths of the Ganges, and proceeded to lay claim to +the possession of the Spice Islands. + +[Spain's error in calculation.] The eastern boundary should, in +reality, have been drawn 46 1/2° further to the east, that is to +say, as much further as it is from Berlin to the coast of Labrador, +or to the lesser Altai; for, in the latitude of Calcutta 46 1/2° +are equivalent to two thousand five hundred and seventy-five nautical +miles. Albo's log-book gives the difference in longitude between the +most eastern islands of the Archipelago and Cape Fermoso (Magellan's +Straits), as 106° 30', while in reality it amounts to 159° 85'. + +[Moluccan rights sold to Portugal.] The disputes between the Spaniards +and the Portuguese, occasioned by the uncertainty of the eastern +boundary--Portugal had already founded a settlement in the Spice +Islands--were set at rest by an agreement made in 1529, in which +Charles V. abandoned his pretended rights to the Moluccas in favor +of Portugal, for the sum of 350,000 ducats. The Philippines, at that +time, were of no value. + + * * * * * + +[Foreign mail facilities.] The distance from Manila to Hongkong is +six hundred fifty nautical miles, and the course is almost exactly +south-east. The mail steamer running between the two ports makes the +trip in from three to four days. This allows of a fortnightly postal +communication between the colony and the rest of the world. [9] + +[Slight share in world commerce.] This small steamer is the only thing +to remind an observer at Hongkong, a port thronged with the ships of +all nations, that an island so specially favored in conditions and +fertility lies in such close proximity. + +[Little commerce with Spain.] Although the Philippines belong to Spain, +there is but little commerce between the two countries. Once the +tie which bound them was so close that Manila was wont to celebrate +the arrival of the Spanish mail with Te Deums and bell-ringing, in +honor of the successful achievement of so stupendous a journey. Until +Portugal fell to Spain, the road round Africa to the Philippines was +not open to Spanish vessels. The condition of the overland route +is sufficiently shown by the fact that two Augustinian monks who, +in 1603, were entrusted with an important message for the king, +and who chose the direct line through Goa, Turkey, and Italy, needed +three years for reaching Madrid. [10] + +[Former Spanish ships mainly carried foreign goods.] The trade by +Spanish ships, which the merchants were compelled to patronize in +order to avoid paying an additional customs tax, in spite of the +protective duties for Spanish products, was almost exclusively +in foreign goods to the colony and returning the products of the +latter for foreign ports. The traffic with Spain was limited to the +conveyance of officials, priests, and their usual necessaries, such as +provisions, wine and other liquors; and, except a few French novels, +some atrociously dull books, histories of saints, and similar works. + +[Manila's fine bay.] The Bay of Manila is large enough to contain the +united fleets of Europe; it has the reputation of being one of the +finest in the world. The aspect of the coast, however, to a stranger +arriving, as did the author, at the close of the dry season, falls +short of the lively descriptions of some travellers. The circular bay, +one hundred twenty nautical miles in circumference, the waters of +which wash the shores of five different provinces, is fringed in the +neighborhood of Manila by a level coast, behind which rises an equally +flat table land. The scanty vegetation in the foreground, consisting +chiefly of bamboos and areca palms, was dried up by the sun; while in +the far distance the dull uniformity of the landscape was broken by +the blue hills of San Mateo. In the rainy season the numerous unwalled +canals overflow their banks and form a series of connected lakes, +which soon, however, change into luxuriant and verdant rice-fields. + +[City's appearance mediaeval European.] Manila is situated on both +sides of the river Pasig. The town itself, surrounded with walls and +ramparts, with its low tiled roofs and a few towers, had, in 1859, +the appearance of some ancient European fortress. Four years later +the greater part of it was destroyed by an earthquake. + +[The 1863 earthquake.] On June 3, 1863, at thirty-one minutes past +seven in the evening, after a day of tremendous heat while all Manila +was busy in its preparations for the festival of Corpus Christi, +the ground suddenly rocked to and fro with great violence. The +firmest buildings reeled visibly, walls crumbled, and beams snapped +in two. The dreadful shock lasted half a minute; but this little +interval was enough to change the whole town into a mass of ruins, +and to bury alive hundreds of its inhabitants. [11] A letter of +the governor-general, which I have seen, states that the cathedral, +the goverment-house, the barracks, and all the public buildings of +Manila were entirely destroyed, and that the few private houses which +remained standing threatened to fall in. Later accounts speak of +four hundred killed and two thousand injured, and estimate the loss +at eight millions of dollars. Forty-six public and five hundred and +seventy private buildings were thrown down; twenty-eight public and +five hundred twenty-eight private buildings were nearly destroyed, +and all the houses left standing were more or less injured. + +[Damage in Cavite.] At the same time, an earthquake of forty seconds' +duration occurred at Cavite, the naval port of the Philippines, +and destroyed many buildings. + +[Destruction in walled city.] Three years afterwards, the Duc +d'Alencon (Lucon et Mindanao; Paris, 1870, S. 38) found the traces +of the catastrophe everywhere. Three sides of the principal square +of the city, in which formerly stood the government, or governor's, +palace, the cathedral, and the townhouse, were lying like dust heaps +overgrown with weeds. All the large public edifices were "temporarily" +constructed of wood; but nobody then seemed to plan anything permanent. + +[Former heavy shocks.] Manila is very often subject to earthquakes; +the most fatal occurred in 1601; in 1610 (Nov. 30); in 1645 (Nov. 30); +in 1658 (Aug. 20); in 1675; in 1699; in 1796; in 1824; in 1852; and +in 1863. In 1645, six hundred [12], or, according to some accounts, +three thousand [13] persons perished, buried under the ruins of their +houses. Their monastery, the church of the Augustinians, and that of +the Jesuits, were the only public buildings which remained standing. + +[Frequent minor disturbances.] Smaller shocks, which suddenly set +the hanging lamps swinging, occur very often and generally remain +unnoticed. The houses are on this account generally of but one story, +and the loose volcanic soil on which they are built may lessen the +violence of the shock. Their heavy tiled roofs, however, appear +very inappropriate under such circumstances. Earthquakes are also +of frequent occurrence in the provinces, but they, as a rule, cause +so little damage, owing to the houses being constructed of timber or +bamboo, that they are never mentioned. + +[Scanty data available.] M. Alexis Perrey (Mém. de l'Académie de +Dijon, 1860) has published a list, collected with much diligence from +every accessible source, of the earthquakes which have visited the +Philippines, and particularly Manila. But the accounts, even of the +most important, are very scanty, and the dates of their occurrence very +unreliable. Of the minor shocks, only a few are mentioned, those which +were noticed by scientific observers accidentally present at the time. + +[The 1610 catastrophe.] Aduarte (I. 141) mentions a tremendous +earthquake which occurred in 1610. I briefly quote his version of +the details of the catastrophe, as I find them mentioned nowhere else. + +"Towards the close of November, 1610, on St. Andrew's Day, a more +violent earthquake than had ever before been witnessed, visited +these Islands; its effects extended from Manila to the extreme end +of the province of Nueva Segovia (the whole northern part of Luzon), +a distance of 200 leagues. It caused great destruction over the entire +area; in the province of Ilocos it buried palm trees, so that only the +tops of their branches were left above the earth's surface; through +the power of the earthquake mountains were pushed against each other; +it threw down many buildings, and killed a great number of people. Its +fury was greatest in Nueva Segovia, where it opened the mountains, and +created new lake basins. The earth threw up immense fountains of sand, +and vibrated so terribly that the people, unable to stand upon it, +laid down and fastened themselves to the ground, as if they had been +on a ship in a stormy sea. In the range inhabited by the Mendayas a +mountain fell in, crushing a village and killing its inhabitants. An +immense portion of the cliff sank into the river; and now, where the +stream was formerly bordered by a range of hills of considerable +altitude, its banks are nearly level with the watercourse. The +commotion was so great in the bed of the river that waves arose like +those of the ocean, or as if the water had been lashed by a furious +wind. Those edifices which were of stone suffered the most damage, +our church and the convent fell in, etc., etc." + + +CHAPTER II + + +[Customhouse red tape.] The customs inspection, and the many +formalities which the native minor officials exercised without any +consideration appear all the more wearisome to the new arrival when +contrasted with the easy routine of the English free ports of the +east he has just quitted. The guarantee of a respectable merchant +obtained for me, as a particular favor, permission to disembark after +a detention of sixteen hours; but even then I was not allowed to take +the smallest article of luggage on shore with me. + +[Shelter for shipping.] During the south-west monsoon and the stormy +season that accompanies the change of monsoons, the roadstead is +unsafe. Larger vessels are then obliged to seek protection in the +port of Cavite, seven miles further down the coast; but during the +north-east monsoons they can safely anchor half a league from the +coast. All ships under three hundred tons burden pass the breakwater +and enter the Pasig, where, as far as the bridge, they lie in serried +rows, extending from the shore to the middle of the stream, and bear +witness by their numbers, as well as by the bustle and stir going on +amongst them, to the activity of the home trade. + +[Silting up of river mouth.] In every rain-monsoon, the Pasig river +sweeps such a quantity of sediment against the breakwater that just +its removal keeps, as it seems, the dredging machine stationed there +entirely occupied. + +[Few foreign vessels.] The small number of the vessels in the +roadstead, particularly of those of foreign countries, was the more +remarkable as Manila was the only port in the Archipelago that had any +commerce with foreign countries. It is true that since 1855 three other +ports, to which a fourth may now be added, had gotten this privilege; +but at the time of my arrival, in March, 1859, not one of them had +ever been entered by a foreign vessel, and it was a few weeks after +my visit that the first English ship sailed into Iloilo to take in +a cargo of sugar for Australia. [14] + +[Antiquated restrictions on trade.] The reason of this peculiarity +laid partly in the feeble development of agriculture, in spite of the +unexampled fertility of the soil, but chiefly in the antiquated and +artificially limited conditions of trade. The customs duties were +in themselves not very high. They were generally about seven per +cent. upon merchandise conveyed under the Spanish flag, and about +twice as much for that carried in foreign bottoms. When the cargo +was of Spanish production, the duty was three per cent. if carried +in national vessels, eight per cent. if in foreign ships. The latter +were only allowed, as a rule, to enter the port in ballast. [15] + +[Discouragements for foreign ships.] As, however, the principal wants +of the colony were imported from England and abroad, these were either +kept back till an opportunity occurred of sending them in Spanish +vessels, which charged nearly a treble freight (from £4 to £5 instead +of from £1 1/2, to £2 per ton), and which only made their appearance +in British ports at rare intervals, or they were sent to Singapore and +Hongkong, where they were transferred to Spanish ships. Tonnage dues +were levied, moreover, upon ships in ballast, and upon others which +merely touched at Manila without unloading or taking in fresh cargo; +and, if a vessel under such circumstances landed even the smallest +parcel, it was no longer rated as a ship in ballast, but charged on the +higher scale. Vessels were therefore forced to enter the port entirely +devoid of cargo, or carrying sufficient to cover the expense of the +increased harbor dues; almost an impossibility for foreign ships, +on account of the differential customs rates, which acted almost as a +complete prohibition. The result was that foreign vessels came there +only in ballast, or when summoned for some particular object. + +[Export taxes.] The exports of the colony were almost entirely +limited to its raw produce, which was burdened with an export duty +of three per cent. Exports leaving under the Spanish flag were only +taxed to the amount of one per cent.; but, as scarcely any export +trade existed with Spain, and as Spanish vessels, from their high +rates of freight, were excluded from the carrying trade of the world, +the boon to commerce was a delusive one. [16] + +[Laws drove away trade.] These inept excise laws, hampered with a +hundred suspicious forms, frightened away the whole carrying trade +from the port; and its commission merchants were frequently unable +to dispose of the local produce. So trifling was the carrying trade +that the total yearly average of the harbor dues, calculated from +the returns of ten years, barely reached $10,000. + +[Manila's favorable location.] The position of Manila, a central +point betwixt Japan, China, Annam, the English and Dutch ports of +the Archipelago and Australia, is in itself extremely favorable +to the development of a world-wide trade. [17] At the time of the +north-eastern monsoons, during our winter, when vessels for the sake of +shelter pass through the Straits of Gilolo on their way from the Indian +Archipelago to China, they are obliged to pass close to Manila. They +would find it a most convenient station, for the Philippines, as we +have already mentioned, are particularly favorably placed for the +west coast of America. + +[The 1869 reform.] A proof that the Spanish Ultramar minister fully +recognizes and appreciates these circumstances appears in his decree, +of April 5, 1869, which is of the highest importance for the future +of the colony. It probably would have been issued earlier had not the +Spanish and colonial shipowners, pampered by the protective system, +obstinately struggled against an innovation which impaired their +former privileges and forced them to greater activity. + +[Bettered conditions.] The most noteworthy points of the decree are +the moderation of the differential duties, and their entire extinction +at the expiration of two years; the abrogation of all export duties; +and the consolidation of the more annoying port dues into one single +charge. + +[Pre-Spanish foreign commerce.] When the Spaniards landed in the +Philippines they found the inhabitants clad in silks and cotton stuffs, +which were imported by Chinese ships to exchange for gold-dust, +sapan wood, [18] holothurian, edible birds' nests, and skins. The +Islands were also in communication with Japan, Cambodia, Siam, [19] +the Moluccas, and the Malay Archipelago. De Barros mentions that +vessels from Luzon visited Malacca in 1511. [20] + +[Early extension under Spain.] The greater order which reigned in +the Philippines after the advent of the Spaniards, and still more the +commerce they opened with America and indirectly with Europe, had the +effect of greatly increasing the Island trade, and of extending it +beyond the Indies to the Persian Gulf. Manila was the great mart for +the products of Eastern Asia, with which it loaded the galleons that, +as early as 1565, sailed to and from New Spain (at first to Navidad, +after 1602 to Acapulco), and brought back silver as their principal +return freight. [21] + +[Jealousy of Seville monopolists.] The merchants in New Spain and Peru +found this commerce so advantageous, that the result was very damaging +to the exports from the mother country, whose manufactured goods were +unable to compete with the Indian cottons and the Chinese silks. The +spoilt monopolists of Seville demanded therefore the abandonment of a +colony which required considerable yearly contributions from the home +exchequer, which stood in the way of the mother country's exploiting +her American colonies, and which let the silver of His Majesty's +dominions pass into the hands of the heathen. Since the foundation of +the colony they had continually thrown impediments in its path. [22] +Their demands, however, were vain in face of the ambition of the +throne and the influence of the clergy; rather, responding to the +views of that time the merchants of Peru and New Spain were forced, +in the interests of the mother country, to obtain merchandise from +China, either directly, or through Manila. The inhabitants of the +Philippines were alone permitted to send Chinese goods to America, +but only to the yearly value of $250,000. The return trade was limited +to $500,000. [23] + +[Prohibition of China trading.] The first amount was afterwards +increased to $300,000, with a proportionate augmentation of the +return freight; but the Spanish were forbidden to visit China, so +that they were obliged to await the arrival of the junks. Finally, +in 1720, Chinese goods were strictly prohibited throughout the +whole of the Spanish possessions in both hemispheres. A decree of +1734 (amplified in 1769) once more permitted trade with China, and +increased the maximum value of the annual freightage to Acapulco to +$500,000 (silver) and that of the return trade to twice the amount. + +[Higher limit on suspension of galleon voyages.] After the galleons to +Acapulco, which had been maintained at the expense of the government +treasury, had stopped their voyages, commerce with America was +handled by merchants who were permitted in 1820, to export goods +up to $750,000 annually from the Philippines and to visit San Blas, +Guayaquil and Callao, besides Acapulco. + +[ British occupation inspired new wants.] This concession, however, +was not sufficient to compensate Philippine commerce for the injuries +it suffered through the separation of Mexico from Spain. The possession +of Manila by the English, in 1762, made its inhabitants acquainted with +many industrial products which the imports from China and India were +unable to offer them. To satisfy these new cravings Spanish men-of-war +were sent, towards the close of 1764, to the colony with products of +Spanish industries, such as wine, provisions, hats, cloth, hardware, +and fancy articles. + +[Manila oppositions to trade innovations.] The Manila merchants, +accustomed to a lucrative trade with Acapulco, strenuously resisted +this innovation, although it was a considerable source of profit to +them, for the Crown purchased the Indian and Chinese merchandise for +its return freights from Manila at double their original value. In +1784, however, the last of these ships arrived. + +[Subterfuges of European traders.] After the English invasion, +European vessels were strictly forbidden to visit Manila; but as +that city did not want to do without Indian merchandise, and could +not import it in its own ships, it was brought there in English and +French bottoms, which assumed a Turkish name, and were provided with +an Indian sham-captain. + +[The "Philippine Company" monopoly.] In 1785, the Compañía de Filipinas +obtained a monopoly of the trade between Spain and the colony, but it +was not allowed to interfere with the direct traffic between Acapulco +and Manila. The desire was to acquire large quantities of colonial +produce, silk, indigo, cinnamon, cotton, pepper, etc., in order to +export it somewhat as was done later on by the system of culture in +Java; but as it was unable to obtain compulsory labor, it entirely +failed in its attempted artificial development of agriculture. + +[Losses by bad management.] The Compañía suffered great losses through +its erroneous system of operation, and the incapacity of its officials +(it paid, for example, $13.50 for a picul of pepper which cost from +three to four dollars in Sumatra). + +[Entrance of foriegn ships and firms.] In 1789 foreign ships were +allowed to import Chinese and Indian produce, but none from Europe. In +1809 an English commercial house obtained permission to establish +itself in Manila. [24] In 1814, after the conclusion of the peace +with France, the same permission, with greater or less restrictions, +was granted to all foreigners. + +[Trade free but port charges discriminating.] In 1820 the direct +trade between the Philippines and Spain was thrown open without any +limitations to the exports of colonial produce, on the condition +that the value of the Indian and Chinese goods in each expedition +should not exceed $50,000. Ever since 1834, when the privileges +of the Compañía expired, free trade has been permitted in Manila; +foreign ships, however, being charged double dues. Four new ports +have been thrown open to general trade since 1855; and in 1869 the +liberal tariff previously alluded to was issued. + +[Port's importance lessened under Spain.] Today, after three centuries +of almost undisturbed Spanish rule, Manila has by no means added to the +importance it possessed shortly after the advent of the Spaniards. The +isolation of Japan and the Indo-Chinese empires, a direct consequence +of the importunities and pretensions of the Catholic missionaries, [25] +the secession of the colonies on the west coast of America, above all +the long continuance of a distrustful commercial and colonial policy--a +policy which exists even at the present day--while important markets, +based on large capital and liberal principles, were being established +in the most favored spots of the British and Dutch Indies; all these +circumstances have contributed to this result and thrown the Chinese +trade into other channels. The cause is as clear as the effect, +yet it might be erroneous to ascribe the policy so long pursued to +short-sightedness. The Spaniards, in their schemes of colonisation, +had partly a religious purpose in view, but the government discovered +a great source of influence in the disposal of the extremely lucrative +colonial appointments. The crown itself, as well as its favorites, +thought of nothing but extracting the most it could from the colony, +and had neither the intention or the power to develop the natural +wealth of the country by agriculture and commerce. Inseparable from +this policy, was the persistent exclusion of foreigners. [26] It seemed +even more necessary in the isolated Philippines than in America to cut +off the natives from all contact with foreigners, if the Spaniards had +any desire to remain in undisturbed possession of the colony. In face, +however, of the developed trade of today and the claims of the world +to the productive powers of such an extraordinarily fruitful soil, the +old restrictions can no longer be maintained, and the lately-introduced +liberal tariff must be hailed as a thoroughly well-timed measure. + + * * * * * + +[Galleon story sidelight on colonial history.] The oft-mentioned +voyages of the galleons betwixt Manila and Acapulco hold such a +prominent position in the history of the Philippines, and afford +such an interesting glimpse into the old colonial system, that their +principal characteristics deserve some description. + +[Chinese part in galleon trade.] In the days of Morga, towards the +close of the sixteenth century, from thirty to forty Chinese junks +were in the habit of annually visiting Manila (generally in March); +towards the end of June a galleon used to sail for Acapulco. The trade +with the latter place, the active operations of which were limited to +the three central months of the year, was so lucrative, easy, and safe, +that the Spaniards scarcely cared to engage in any other undertakings. + +[Favoritism in allotment of cargo space.] As the carrying power of +the annual galleon was by no means proportioned to the demand for +cargo room, the governor divided it as he deemed best; the favorites, +however, to whom he assigned shares in the hold, seldom traded +themselves, but parted with their concessions to the merchants. + +[Division of space and character of cargo.] According to De Guignes, +[27] the hold of the vessel was divided into 1,500 parts, of which +the majority were allotted to the priests, and the rest to favored +persons. As a matter of fact, the value of the cargo, which was +officially limited to $600,000, was considerably higher. It chiefly +consisted of Indian and Chinese cottons and silk stuffs (amongst +others fifty thousand pairs of silk stockings from China), and gold +ornaments. The value of the return freight amounted to between two +and three millions of dollars. + +[Profit in trade.] Everything in this trade was settled beforehand; +the number, shape, size, and value of the bales, and even their selling +price. As this was usually double the original cost, the permission +to ship goods to a certain amount was equivalent, under ordinary +circumstances, to the bestowal of a present of a like value. These +permissions or licenses (boletas) were, at a later period, usually +granted to pensioners and officers' widows, and to officials, in lieu +of an increase of salary; these favorites were forbidden, however, +to make a direct use of them, for to trade with Acapulco was the +sole right of those members of the Consulado (a kind of chamber of +commerce) who could prove a long residence in the country and the +possession of a capital of at least $8,000. + +[Evasion of regulations.] Legentil, the astronomer, gives a full +description of the regulations which prevailed in his day and the +manner in which they were disobeyed. The cargo consisted of a thousand +bales, each composed of four packets, [28] the maximum value of each +packet being fixed at $250. It was impossible to increase the amount of +bales, but they pretty generally consisted of more than four packets, +and their value so far exceeded the prescribed limits, that a boleta +was considered to be worth from $200 to $225. The officials took good +care that no goods should be smuggled on board without a boleta. These +were in such demand, that, at a later period, Comyn [29] saw people +pay $500 for the right to ship goods, the value of which scarcely +amounted to $1,000. The merchants usually borrowed the money for these +undertakings from the obras pias, charitable foundations, which, up +to our own time, fulfil in the Islands the purposes of banks. [30] +In the early days of the trade, the galleon used to leave Cavite in +July and sail with a south-westerly wind beyond the tropics, until +it met with a west wind at the thirty-eighth or [Route outward.] +fortieth parallel. [31] Later on the vessels were ordered to leave +Cavite with the first south-westerly winds to sail along the south +coast of Luzon, through San Bernardino straits, and to continue along +the thirteenth parallel of north latitude [32] as far to the east as +possible, until the north-easterly trade wind compelled them to seek a +north-west breeze in higher latitudes. They were then obliged to try +the thirtieth parallel as long as possible, instead of, as formerly, +the thirty-seventh. The captain of the galleon was not permitted +to sail immediately northward, although to have done so would have +procured him a much quicker and safer passage, and would have enabled +him to reach the rainy zone more rapidly. To effect the last, indeed, +was a matter of the greatest importance to him, for his vessel, +overladen [Water-supply crowded out by cargo.] with merchandise, +had but little room crowded out for water; and although he had +a crew of from four hundred to six hundred hands to provide for, +he was instructed to depend upon the rain he caught on the voyage; +for which purpose, the galleon was provided with suitable mats and +bamboo pails. [33] + +[Length of voyage.] Voyages in these low latitudes were, owing to the +inconstancy of the winds, extremely troublesome, and often lasted five +months and upwards. The fear of exposing the costly, cumbrous vessel +to the powerful and sometimes stormy winds of the higher latitudes, +appears to have been the cause of these sailing orders. + +[California landfall.] As soon as the galleon had passed the great +Sargasso shoal, it took a southerly course, and touched at the +southern point of the Californian peninsula (San Lucas), where news +and provisions awaited it. [34] In their earlier voyages, however, +they must have sailed much further to the north, somewhere in the +neighborhood of Cape Mendocino, and have been driven southward in sight +of the coast; for Vizcaino, in the voyage of discovery he undertook +in 1603, from Mexico to California, found the principal mountains and +capes, although no European had ever set his foot upon them, already +christened by the galleons, to which they had served as landmarks. +[35] + +[Speedy return voyage.] The return voyage to the Philippines was an +easy one, and only occupied from forty to sixty days. [36] The galleon +left Acapulco in February or March, sailed southwards till it fell in +with the trade wind (generally in from 10° to 11° of north latitude), +which carried it easily to the Ladrone Islands, and thence reached +Manila by way of Samar. [37] + +[Galleon's size and armament.] A galleon was usually of from twelve +hundred to fifteen hundred tons burden, and carried fifty or sixty +guns. The latter, however, were pretty generally banished to the +hold during the eastward voyage. When the ship's bows were turned +towards home, and there was no longer any press of space, the guns +were remounted. + +[Capture of "Santa Anna".] San Augustin says of the Santa Anna, which +Thomas Candish captured and burnt in 1586 off the Californian coast: +"Our people sailed so carelessly that they used their guns for ballast; +.... the pirate's venture was such a fortunate one that he returned +to London with sails of Chinese damask and silken rigging." The cargo +was sold in Acapulco at a profit of 100 per cent., and was paid for +in silver, cochineal, quicksilver, etc. [Value of return freight] +The total value of the return freight amounted perhaps to between +two and three million dollars, [38] of which a quarter of a million, +at least, fell to the king. + +[Gambling rather than commerce] The return of a galleon to Manila, +laden with silver dollars and new arrivals, was a great holiday +for the colony. A considerable portion of the riches they had won +as easily as at the gaming table, was soon spent by the crew; when +matters again returned to their usual lethargic state. It was no +unfrequent event, however, for vessels to be lost. They were too +often laden with a total disregard to seaworthiness, and wretchedly +handled. It was favor, not capacity, that determined the patronage +of these lucrative appointments. [39] Many galleons fell into the +hands of English and Dutch cruisers. [40] ["Philippine Company" +and smugglers cause change.] But these tremendous profits gradually +decreased as the Compañía obtained the right to import Indian +cottons, one of the principal articles of trade, into New Spain by +way of Vera Cruz, subject to a customs duty of 6 per cent; and when +English and American adventurers began to smuggle these and other +goods into the country. [41] [Spanish coins in circulation on China +coast.] Finally, it may be mentioned that Spanish dollars found their +way in the galleons to China and the further Indies, where they are +in circulation to this day. + + + +CHAPTER III + + +[The walled city of Manila.] The city proper of Manila, inhabited by +Spaniards, Creoles, the Filipinos directly connected with them, and +Chinese, lies, surrounded by walls and wide ditches, on the left or +southern bank of the Pasig, looking towards the sea. [42] It is a hot, +dried-up place, full of monasteries, convents, barracks, and government +buildings. Safety, not appearance, was the object of its builders. It +reminds the beholder of a Spanish provincial town, and is, next to Goa, +the oldest city in the Indies. Foreigners reside on the northern bank +of the river; in Binondo, the headquarters of wholesale and retail +commerce, or in the pleasant suburban villages, which blend into +a considerable whole. [Population.] The total population of city +and suburbs has been estimated, perhaps with some exaggeration, +at 200,000. [Bridges.] A handsome old stone bridge of ten arches +serves as the communication between the two banks of the Pasig, +which, more recently, has also been spanned by an iron suspension +bridge. [43] Very little intercourse exists between the inhabitants +of Manila and Binondo. [Friction between classes.] Life in the city +proper cannot be very pleasant; pride, envy, place-hunting, and caste +hatred, are the order of the day; the Spaniards consider themselves +superior to the creoles, who, in their turn, reproach the former with +the taunt that they have only come to the colony to save themselves +from starvation. A similar hatred and envy exists between the whites +and the mestizos. This state of things is to be found in all Spanish +colonies, and is chiefly caused by the colonial policy of Madrid, +which always does its best to sow discord between the different races +and classes of its foreign possessions, under the idea that their +union would imperil the sway of the mother country. [44] + +[Few large landowners.] In Manila, moreover, this state of things was +rendered worse by the fact that the planter class, whose large landed +possessions always give it a strong interest in the country of its +inhabitance, was entirely wanting. At the present day, however, the +increasing demand for the produce of the colony seems to be bringing +about a pleasant change in this respect. [Spaniards transient.] The +manner in which the Spanish population of the Islands was affected +by the gambling ventures of the galleons, at one time the only +source of commercial wealth, is thus described by Murillo Velarde +(page 272):--"The Spaniards who settle here look upon these Islands +as a tavern rather than a permanent home. If they marry, it is by the +merest chance; where can a family be found that has been settled here +for several generations? The father amasses wealth, the son spends it, +the grandson is a beggar. The largest capitals are not more stable than +the waves of the ocean, across the crests of which they were gathered." + +[Discomforts and the high cost of living.] There is nothing like +the same amount of sociability amongst the foreigners in Binondo as +prevails in English and Dutch colonies; and scarcely any intercourse at +all with the Spaniards, who envy the strangers and almost seem to look +upon the gains the latter make in the country as so many robberies +committed upon themselves, its owners. Besides all this, living is +very expensive, much more so than in Singapore and Batavia. To many, +the mere cost of existence seems greatly out of proportion to their +official salaries. The (European style) houses, which are generally +spacious, are gloomy and ugly, and not well ventilated for such a +climate. Instead of light jalousies, they are fitted with heavy sash +windows, which admit the light through thin oyster shells, forming +small panes scarcely two square inches in area, and held together by +laths an inch thick. The ground floors of the houses are, on account +of the great damp, sensibly enough, generally uninhabited; and are +used as cellars, stables, and servant's offices. + +[Native houses comfortable and unchanged.] The unassuming, but for +their purposes very practical houses, of boards, bamboos, and (nipa) +palm leaves, are supported on account of the damp on isolated beams +or props; and the space beneath, which is generally fenced in with +a railing, is used as a stable or a warehouse; such was the case +as early as the days of Magellan. These dwellings [45] are very +lightly put together. La Pérouse estimates the weight of some of them, +furniture and all, at something less than two hundred pounds. Nearly +all these houses, as well as the huts of the natives, are furnished +with an azotea, that is, an uncovered space, on the same level as the +dwelling, which takes the place of yard and balcony. The Spaniards +appear to have copied this useful contrivance from the Moors, but the +natives were acquainted with them before the arrival of the Europeans, +for Morga mentions similar batalanes. + +[Neglected river and canals offensive.] In the suburbs nearly every +hut stands in its own garden. The river is often quite covered with +green scum; and dead cats and dogs surrounded with weeds, which look +like cabbage-lettuce, frequently adorn its waters. In the dry season, +the numerous canals of the suburbs are so many stagnant drains, +and at each ebb of the tide the ditches around the town exhibit a +similar spectacle. + +[Dreary and unprogressive life.] Manila offers very few opportunities +for amusement. There was no Spanish theatre open during my stay there, +but Tagalog plays (translations) were sometimes represented. The town +possessed no club, and contained no readable books. Never once did +the least excitement enliven its feeble newspapers, for the items +of intelligence, forwarded fortnightly from Hongkong, were sifted by +priestly censors, who left little but the chronicles of the Spanish +and French courts to feed the barren columns of the local sheets. [46] +The pompously celebrated religious festivals were the only events +that sometimes chequered the wearisome monotony. + +[Cock-fighting.] The chief amusement of the Filipinos is cock-fighting, +which is carried on with a passionate eagerness that must strike every +stranger. Nearly every man keeps a fighting cock. Many are never seen +out of doors without their favorite in their arms; they pay as much +as $50 and upwards for these pets, and heap the tenderest caresses +on them. The passion for cock-fighting can well be termed a national +vice; but the practice may have been introduced by the Spaniards, or +the Mexicans who accompanied them, as, in a like manner, the habit of +smoking opium among the Chinese, which has become a national curse, +was first introduced by the English. [Probably Malay Custom.] It is, +however, more probable that the Malays brought the custom into the +country. In the eastern portion of the Philippines, cock-fighting +was unknown in the days of Pigafetta. The first cock-fight he met +with was at Palawan. "They keep large cocks, which from a species of +superstition, they never eat, but keep for fighting purposes. Heavy +bets are made on the upshot of the contest, which are paid to the +owner of the winning bird." [47] The sight is one extremely repulsive +to Europeans. [The cockpit.] The ring around the cockpit is crowded +with men, perspiring at every pore, while their countenances bear +the imprint of the ugliest passions. Each bird is armed with a sharp +curved spur, three inches long capable of making deep wounds, and which +always causes the death of one or both birds by the serious injuries it +inflicts. If a cock shows symptoms of fear and declines the encounter, +it is plucked alive. Incredibly large sums, in proportion to the means +of the gamblers, are wagered on the result. [Its bad influence.] It +is very evident that these cock-fights must have a most demoralising +effect upon a people so addicted to idleness and dissipation, and so +accustomed to give way to the impulse of the moment. Their effect +is to make them little able to resist the temptation of procuring +money without working for it. The passion for the game leads many +to borrow at usury, to embezzlement, to theft, and even to highway +robbery. The land and sea pirates, of whom I shall speak presently, +are principally composed of ruined gamesters. [48] + +[Feminine attractiveness.] In the comeliness of the women who +lend animation to its streets Manila surpasses all other towns in +the Indian Archipelago. Mallat describes them in glowing colors. A +charming picture of Manila street life, full of local color, is given +in the very amusing Aventures d'un Gentilhomme Breton. [49] + +[Mestizas.] How many of the prettiest Filipinas are of perfectly +unmixed blood, it is, I confess, difficult to decide. Many of them +are very fair and of quite an European type, and are thereby easily +distinguished from their sisters in the outlying provinces. The +immediate environs of Manila can boast many beautiful spots, but +they are not the resort of the local rank and fashion, the object +of whose daily promenade is the display of their toilettes, and not +the enjoyment of nature. In the hot season, all who can afford it +are driven every evening along the [The Luneta.] dusty streets to +a promenade on the beach, which was built a short time back, where +several times a week the band of a native regiment plays fairly good +music, and there walk formally up and down. All the Spaniards [The +Angelas.] are in uniform or in black frock coats. When the bells ring +out for evening prayer, carriages, horsemen, pedestrians, all suddenly +stand motionless; the men take off their hats, and everybody appears +momentarily absorbed in prayer. + +[Botanical gardens.] The same governor who laid out the promenade +established a botanical garden. It is true that everything he planted +in it, exposed on a marshy soil to the full heat of a powerful sun, +soon faded away; but its ground was enclosed and laid out, and though +it was overgrown with weeds, it had at least received a name. At +present it is said to be in better condition. [50] + +[Pretty girls in gay garments.] The religious festivals in the +neighborhood of Manila are well worth a visit, if only for the sake +of the numerous pretty Filipinas and mestizas in their best clothes +who make their appearance in the evening and promenade up and down +the streets, which are illuminated and profusely decked with flowers +and bright colors. They offer a charming spectacle, particularly +to a stranger lately arrived from Malaysia. The Filipinas are very +beautifully formed. They have luxuriant black hair, and large dark +eyes; the upper part of their bodies is clad in a homespun but often +costly material of transparent fineness and snow-white purity; and, +from their waist downwards, they are wrapped in a brightly-striped +cloth (saya), which falls in broad folds, and which, as far as the +knee, is so tightly compressed with a dark shawl (lapis), closely drawn +around the figure, that the rich variegated folds of the saya burst +out beneath it like the blossoms of a pomegranate. This swathing only +allows the young girls to take very short steps, and this timidity of +gait, in unison with their downcast eyes, gives them a very modest +appearance. On their naked feet they wear embroidered slippers of +such a small size that their little toes protrude for want of room, +and grasp the outside of the sandal. [51] + +[Dress of the poorer women.] The poorer women clothe themselves in a +saya and in a so-called chemise, which is so extremely short that it +frequently does not even reach the first fold of the former. In the +more eastern islands grown-up girls and women wear, with the exception +of a Catholic amulet, nothing but these two garments, which are, +particularly after bathing, and before they get dried by the sun, +nearly transparent. + +[Men's clothing.] A hat, trousers, and a shirt worn outside them, +both made of coarse Guinara cloth, compose the dress of the men of +the poorer classes. The shirts worn by the wealthy are often made +of an extremely expensive home-made material, woven from the fibers +of the pineapple or the banana. Some of them are ornamented with +silk stripes, some are plain. They are also frequently manufactured +entirely of jusi (Chinese floret silk), in which case they will not +stand washing, and can only be worn once. The hat (salacot), a round +piece of home-made plaiting, is used as both umbrella and sunshade, +and is often adorned with silver ornaments of considerable value. [The +"Principales".] The principalia class enjoy the special privilege +of wearing short jackets above their shirts, and are usually easily +recognizable by their amusing assumption of dignity, and by the faded +cylindrical hats, yellow with age, family heirlooms, constantly +worn. [The dandies.] The native dandies wear patent leather shoes +on their naked feet, tight-fitting trousers of some material striped +with black and white or with some other glaringly-contrasted colors, +a starched plaited shirt of European make, a chimney-pot silk hat, +and carry a cane in their hands. [The servants.] The servants waiting +at dinner in their white starched shirts and trousers are by no means +an agreeable spectacle, and I never realised the full ludicrousness +of European male costume till my eye fell upon its caricature, +exemplified in the person of a "Manila dandy." + +[Mestiza costume.] The mestizas dress like the Filipinas, but do not +wear the tapis, and those of them who are married to Europeans are +generally clad in both shoes and stockings. Many of the mestizas are +extremely pretty, but their gait drags a little, from their habit of +wearing slippers. As a rule they are prudent, thrifty, and [Clever +business women.] clever business women, but their conversation is +often awkward and tedious. Their want of education is, however, not +the cause of this latter failing, for Andalusian women who never learn +anything but the elementary doctrines of Christianity, are among the +most charming creatures in the world, in their youth. [Ill at ease +in society.] Its cause lies rather in this equivocal position; they +are haughtily repelled by their white sisters, whilst they themselves +disown their mother's kin. They are wanting in the ease, in the tact, +that the women of Spain show in every relation of existence. + +[Mestizos.] The mestizos, particularly those born of Chinese and Tagal +mothers, constitute the richest and the most enterprising portion of +the native population. They are well acquainted with all the good and +bad qualities of the Filipino inhabitants, and use them unscrupulously +for their own purposes. + + + +CHAPTER IV + + +[Native distrust of Europeans.] A Scotch merchant to whom I brought +a letter of introduction invited me with such cordiality to come +and stay with him, that I found myself unable to refuse. While thus +living under the roof and protection of one of the wealthiest and most +respected men in the city, the cabmen I employed insisted on being +paid beforehand every time I rode in their vehicles. This distrust was +occasioned by the scanty feeling of respect most of the Europeans in +Manila inspired in the minds of the natives. Many later observations +confirmed this impression. What a different state of things exists +in Java and Singapore! The reason, however, is easily explained. + +[Dutch and English stand well in their colonies.] The Dutch are as +little able as the English to acclimatize themselves in tropical +countries. They get all they can out of countries in which they are +only temporary sojourners, the former by forced service and monopoly, +the latter by commerce. In both cases, however, the end is accomplished +by comparatively few individuals, whose official position and the +largeness of whose undertakings place them far above the mass of the +population. In Java, moreover, the Europeans constitute the governing +classes, the natives the governed; and even in Singapore where both +races are equal before the law the few white men understand how to mark +the difference of race so distinctively that the natives without demur +surrender to them, though not by means of the law, the privileges of a +higher caste. The difference of religion does but widen the gap; and, +finally, every European there speaks the language of the country, while +the natives are totally ignorant of that spoken by the foreigners. + +[Dutch colonials well educated.] The Dutch officials are educated at +home in schools specially devoted to the East Indian service. The art +of managing the natives, the upholding of prestige, which is considered +the secret of the Dutch power over the numerous native populations, +forms an essential particular in their education. The Dutch, therefore, +manage their intercourse with the natives, no matter how much they +intend to get out of them, in strict accordance with customary usage +(adat); they never wound the natives' amor propio and never expose +themselves in their own mutual intercourse, which remains a sealed +book to the inhabitants. + +[Spanish officials undesirables.] Things are different in the +Philippines. With the exception of those officials whose stay is +limited by the rules of the service, or by the place-hunting that +ensues at every change in the Spanish ministry, few Spaniards who +have once settled in the colony ever return home. It is forbidden +to the priests, and most of the rest have no means of doing so. A +considerable portion of them consist of subaltern officers, soldiers, +sailors, political delinquents and refugees whom the mother-country +has got rid of; and not seldom of adventurers deficient both in means +and desire for the journey back, for their life in the colony is far +pleasanter than that they were forced to lead in Spain. These latter +arrive without the slightest knowledge of the country and without +being in the least prepared for a sojourn there. Many of them are so +lazy that they won't take the trouble to learn the language even if +they marry a daughter of the soil. Their servants understand Spanish, +and clandestinely watch the conversation and the actions, and become +acquainted with all the secrets, of their indiscreet masters, to +whom the Filipinos remain an enigma which their conceit prevents them +attempting to decipher. + +[Spanish lack of prestige deserved.] It is easy to understand how +Filipino respect for Europeans must be diminished by the numbers of +these uneducated, improvident, and extravagant Spaniards, who, no +matter what may have been their position at home, are all determined +to play the master in the colony. [Social Standing of Filipinos thus +enhanced.] The relative standing of the Filipinos naturally profits +by all this and it would be difficult to find a colony in which +the natives, taken all in all, feel more comfortable than in the +Philippines. They have adopted the religion, the manners, and the +customs of their rulers; and though legally not on an equal footing +with the latter, they are by no means separated from them by the +high barriers with which, not to mention Java, the churlish reserve +of the English has surrounded the natives of the other colonies. + +[Spanish-Filipino bonds of union.] The same religion, a similar form +of worship, an existence intermixed with that of the indigenous +population, all tend to bring the Europeans and the Indians +together. That they have done so is proved by the existence of the +proportionately very numerous band of mestizos who inhabit the Islands. + +[Latin races better for colonists in the tropics.] The Spaniards +and the Portuguese appear, in fact, to be the only Europeans who +take root in tropical countries. They are capable of permanent and +fruitful amalgamation [52] with the natives. [53] + +[Initiative and individuality missing.] The want of originality, which +among the mestizos, appears to arise from their equivocal position, +is also to be found among the natives. Distinctly marked national +customs, which one would naturally expect to find in such an isolated +part of the world, are sought for in vain, and again and again the +stranger remarks that everything has been learned and is only a veneer. + +[A compromise civilization.] As Spain forcibly expelled the +civilization of the Moors, and in Peru that of the Incas, so in the +Philippines it has understood how to set aside an equally well-founded +one, by appropriating in an incredible manner, in order to take root +itself the more quickly, all existing forms and abuses. [54] + +[Imitation instilled and self-respect banished.] The uncivilized +inhabitants of the Philippines quickly adopted the rites, forms, +and ceremonies of the strange religion, and, at the same time, copied +the personal externalities of their new masters, learning to despise +their own manners and customs as heathenish and barbarian. Nowadays, +forsooth, they sing Andalusian songs, and dance Spanish dances; but +in what sort of way? They imitate everything that passes before their +eyes without using their intelligence to appreciate it. It is this +which makes both themselves and their artistic productions wearisome, +devoid of character, and, I may add, unnatural, in spite of the skill +and patience they devote to them. These two peculiarities, moreover, +are invariably to be found amongst nations whose civilization is but +little developed; the patience so much admired is often nothing but +waste of time and breath, quite out of proportion to the end in view, +and the skill is the mere consequence of the backward state of the +division of labor. + +[Educated Filipino unnatural.] If I entered the house of a well-to-do +Filipino, who spoke Spanish, I was received with the same phrases his +model, a Spaniard, would employ; but I always had the feeling that it +was out of place. In countries where the native population remains +true to its ancient customs this is not the case; and whenever I +have not been received with proper respect, I have remarked that the +apparent fact proceeded from a difference in social forms, not more +to be wondered at than a difference in weights and measures. In Java, +and particularly in Borneo and the Moluccas, the utensils in daily use +are ornamented with so refined a feeling for form and color, that they +are praised by our artists as patterns of ornamentation and afford +a proof that the labor is one of love, and that it is presided over +by an acute intelligence. [Native art-sense spoiled.] Such a sense +of beauty is seldom to be met with in the Philippines. Everything +there is imitation or careless makeshift. Even the piña embroideries, +which are fabricated with such wonderful patience and skill, and +are so celebrated for the fineness of the work, are, as a rule, +spiritless imitations of Spanish patterns. One is involuntarily +led to these conclusions by a comparison of the art products of the +Spanish-American communities with those of more barbarous races. The +Berlin Ethnographical Museum contains many proofs of the facts I have +just mentioned. + +[Indolence from absence of incentive.] The oars used in the +Philippines are usually made of bamboo poles, with a board tied to +their extremities with strips of rattan. If they happen to break, so +much the better; for the fatiguing labor of rowing must necessarily +be suspended till they are mended again. + +[Carelessness from lack of responsibility.] In Java the carabao-carts, +which are completely covered in as a protection against the rain, +are ornamented with many tasteful patterns. The roofless wagons used +in the Philippines are roughly put together at the last moment. When +it is necessary to protect their contents from the wet, an old pair +of mats is thrown over them, more for the purpose of appeasing the +prejudices of the "Castilians" than really to keep off the rain. + +[Weakened character and want of dignity.] The English and the Dutch are +always looked upon as strangers in the tropics; their influence never +touches the ancient native customs which culminate in the religion of +the country. But the populations whom the Spaniards have converted to +their religion have lost all originality, all sense of nationality; +yet the alien religion has never really penetrated into their inmost +being, they never feel it to be a source of moral support, and it is +no accidental coincidence that they are all more or less stamped with +a want of dignity.... + +[Spanish rule not benevolent, but beneficial.] With the exception of +this want of national individuality, and the loss of the distinguishing +manners and customs which constitute the chief charm of most eastern +peoples, the Filipino is an interesting study of a type of mankind +existing in the easiest natural conditions. The arbitrary rule of +their chiefs, and the iron shackles of slavery, were abolished by the +Spaniards shortly after their arrival; and peace and security reigned +in the place of war and rapine. The Spanish rule in these Islands was +always a mild one, not because the laws, which treated the natives +like children, were wonderfully gentle, but because the causes did +not exist which caused such scandalous cruelties in Spanish America +and in the colonies of other nations. + +[Circumstances have favored the Filipinos.] It was fortunate for +the Filipinos that their islands possessed no wealth in the shape of +precious metals or valuable spices. In the earlier days of maritime +traffic there was little possibility of exporting the numerous +agricultural productions of the colony; and it was scarcely worth +while, therefore, to make the most of the land. The few Spaniards +who resided in the colony found such an easy method of making money +in the commerce with China and Mexico, by means of the galleons, +that they held themselves aloof from all economical enterprises, +which had little attraction for their haughty inclinations, and +would have imposed the severest labor on the Filipinos. Taking into +consideration the wearisome and dangerous navigation of the time, +it was, moreover, impossible for the Spaniards, upon whom their too +large possessions in America already imposed an exhausting man-tax, +to maintain a strong armed force in the Philippines. The subjection, +which had been inaugurated by a dazzling military exploit, was chiefly +accomplished by the assistance of the friar orders, whose missionaries +were taught to employ extreme prudence and patience. The Philippines +were thus principally won by a peaceful conquest. + +[Have fared better than the Mexicans.] The taxes laid upon the peoples +were so trifling that they did not suffice for the administration +of the colony. The difference was covered by yearly contributions +from Mexico. The extortions of unconscientious officials were by no +means conspicuous by their absence. Cruelties, however, such as were +practised in the American mining districts, or in the manufactures +of Quito, never occurred in the Philippines. + +[A land of opportunity.] Uncultivated land was free, and was at +the service of any one willing to make it productive; if, however, +it remained untilled for two years, it reverted to the crown. [55] + +[Low taxes.] The only tax which the Filipinos pay is the poll-tax, +known as the tributo, which originally, three hundred years ago, +amounted to one dollar for every pair of adults, and in a country +where all marry early, and the sexes are equally divided, really +constituted a family-tax. By degrees the tribute has been raised to +two and one-sixteenth dollars. An adult, therefore, male or female, +pays one and one-thirty-second dollar, and that from his sixteenth to +his sixtieth year. Besides this, every man has to give forty days' +labor every year to the State. This vassalage (polos y servicios) +is divided into ordinary and extraordinary services: the first +consists of the duties appertaining to a watchman or messenger, in +cleaning the courts of justice, and in other light labors; the second +in road-making, and similar heavier kinds of work, for the benefit +of villages and provinces. The little use, however, that is made of +these services, is shown by the fact that any one can obtain a release +from them for a sum which at most is not more than three dollars. No +personal service is required of women. A little further on, important +details about the tax from official sources, which were placed at my +disposal in the colonial office, appear in a short special chapter. + +[Fortunate factors.] In other countries, with an equally mild climate, +and an equally fertile soil, the natives, unless they had reached a +higher degree of civilization than that of the Philippine Islanders, +would have been ground down by native princes, or ruthlessly plundered +and destroyed by foreigners. In these isolated Islands, so richly +endowed by nature, where pressure from above, impulse from within, +and every stimulus from the outside are wanting, the satisfaction +of a few trifling wants is sufficient for an existence with ample +comfort. Of all countries in the world, the Philippines have the +greatest claim to be considered a lotos-eating Utopia. The traveller, +whose knowledge of the dolce far niente is derived from Naples, +has no real appreciation of it; it only blossoms under the shade of +palm-trees. These notes of travel will contain plenty of examples to +support this. One trip across the Pasig gives a foretaste of life +in the interior of the country. Low wooden cabins and bamboo huts, +surmounted with green foliage and blossoming flowers, are picturesquely +grouped with areca palms, and tall, feather-headed bamboos, upon its +banks. Sometimes the enclosures run down into the stream itself, some +of them being duck-grounds, and others bathing-places. The shore is +fringed with canoes, nets, rafts, and fishing apparatus. Heavily-laden +boats float down the stream, and small canoes ply from bank to bank +between the groups of bathers. The most lively traffic is to be seen +in the tiendas, large sheds, corresponding to the Javanese harongs, +which open upon the river, the great channel for traffic. + +[River resorts.] They are a source of great attraction to the +passing sailors, who resort to them for eating, drinking, and other +convivialities; and while away the time there in gambling, betel +chewing, and smoking, with idle companions of both sexes. + +[Sleeping pilots.] At times somebody may be seen floating down +the stream asleep on a heap of coconuts. If the nuts run ashore, +the sleeper rouses himself, pushes off with a long bamboo, and +contentedly relapses into slumber, as his eccentric raft regains +the current of the river. One cut of his bolo-knife easily detaches +sufficient of the husk of the nuts to allow of their being fastened +together; in this way a kind of wreath is formed which encircles and +holds together the loose nuts piled up in the middle. + +[Labor-saving conditions.] The arduous labors of many centuries +have left as their legacy a perfect system of transport; but in +these Islands man can obtain many of his requirements direct with +proportionately trifling labor, and a large amount of comfort for +himself. + +[Easy food.] Off the Island of Talim, in the great Lagoon of Bay, my +boatmen bought for a few cuartos several dozens of fish quite twelve +inches long; and those which they couldn't eat were split open, salted, +and dried by a few hours' exposure to the heat of the sun on the roof +of the boat. When the fishermen had parted with their contemplated +breakfast, they stooped down and filled their cooking-vessels with +sand-mussels (paludina costata, 2.a G.), first throwing away the +dead ones from the handfuls they picked up from the bottom of the +shallow water. + +[River's importance.] Nearly all the dwellings are built by the water's +edge. The river is a natural self-maintaining highway, on which loads +can be carried to the foot of the mountains. The huts of the people, +built upon piles, are to be seen thickly scattered about its banks, +and particularly about its broad mouths. The appropriateness of +their position is evident, for the stream is at once the very +center of activity and the most convenient spot for the pursuit +of their callings. At each tide the takes of fish are more or less +plentiful, and at low-water the women and children may be seen picking +up shell-fish with their toes, for practice has enabled them to use +their toes as deftly as their fingers, or gathering in the sand-crabs +and eatable seaweed. + +[Riverside gaiety.] The riverside is a pretty sight when men, women, +and children are bathing and frolicking in the shade of the palm-trees; +and others are filling their water-vessels, large bamboos, which they +carry on their shoulders, or jars, which they bear on their heads; +and when the boys are standing upright on the broad backs of the +carabaos and riding triumphantly into the water. + +[Coco-palms.] It is here too that the coco-palm most flourishes, a tree +that supplies not only their food and drink, but also every material +necessary for the construction of huts and the manufacture of the +various articles which they use. While the greatest care is necessary +to make those growing further inland bear even a little fruit, the +palm-trees close to the shore, even when planted on wretched soil, +grow plentiful crops without the slightest trouble. Has a palm-tree +ever been made to blossom in a hothouse? Thomson [56] mentions that +coco-trees growing by the sea-side are wont to incline their stems over +the ocean, the waters of which bear their fruit to desert shores and +islands, and render them habitable for mankind. Thus the coco-tree +would seem to play an essential part in the ocean vagabondage of +Malaysia and Polynesia. + +[Nipa-palms.] Close to the coco-trees grow clumps of the stunted +nipa-palms, which only flourish in brackish waters; [57] their +leaves furnish the best roof-thatching. Sugar, brandy, and vinegar +are manufactured from their sap. Three hundred and fifty years ago +Pigafetta found these manufactures in full swing, but nowadays +they seem to be limited to the Philippines. Besides these, the +pandanus-tree, from the leaves of which the softest mats are woven, +is always found in near proximity to the shore. + +[Fertile fields.] Towards the interior the landscape is covered with +rice-fields, which yearly receive a fresh layer of fertile soil, +washed down from the mountains by the river, and spread over their +surface by the overflowing of its waters; and which in consequence +never require any fertilizer. [The carabao.] The carabao, the favorite +domestic animal of the Malays, and which they keep especially for +agricultural purposes, prefers these regions to all others. It loves +to wallow in the mud, and is not fit for work unless permitted to +frequent the water. + +[Bamboo.] Bamboos with luxuriant leafy tops grow plentifully by the +huts in the rice-fields which fringe the banks of the river. In my +former sketches of travel I have endeavored to describe how much +this gigantic plant contributes to the comfort and convenience of +tropical life. Since then I have become acquainted with many curious +purposes to which it is turned, but to describe them here would be +out of place. [58] I may be allowed, however, to briefly cite a +few examples showing what numerous results are obtained from simple +means. Nature has endowed these splendid plants, which perhaps surpass +all others in beauty, with so many useful qualities, and delivered +them into the hands of mankind so ready for immediate use, that a +few sharp cuts suffice to convert them into all kinds of various +utensils. [Strength.] The bamboo possesses, in proportion to its +lightness, an extraordinary strength; the result of its round shape, +and the regularity of the joints in its stem. The parallel position and +toughness of its fibers render it easy to split, and, when split, its +pieces are of extraordinary pliability and elasticity. To the gravelly +soil on which it grows it owes its durability, and its firm, even, +and always clean surface, the brilliancy and color of which improve by +use. [Convenience.] And finally, it is a great thing for a population +with such limited means of conveyance that the bamboo is to be found +in such abundance in all kinds of localities and of all dimensions, +from a few millimeters to ten or fifteen centimeters in diameter, +even sometimes to twice this amount; and that, on account of its +unsurpassed floating power, it is pre-eminently fitted for locomotion +in a country poor in roads but rich in watercourses. A blow with a bolo +is generally enough to cut down a strong stem. [Usefulness.] If the +thin joints are taken away, hollow stems of different thicknesses can +be slid into one another like the parts of a telescope. From bamboos +split in half, gutters, troughs, and roofing tiles can be made. Split +into several slats, which can be again divided into small strips and +fibers for the manufacture of baskets, ropes, mats, and fine plaiting +work, they can be made into frames and stands. Two cuts in the same +place make a round hole through which a stem of corresponding diameter +can be firmly introduced. If a similar opening is made in a second +upright, the horizontal stem can be run through both. Gates, closing +perpendicularly or horizontally in frames moving without friction on +a perpendicular or horizontal axis, can be made in this way. + +Two deep cuts give an angular shape to the stem; and when its two sides +are wide enough apart to admit of a cross-stem being placed between +them, they can be employed as roof-ridges or for the framework of +tables and chairs; a quantity of flat split pieces of bamboo being +fastened on top of them with chair-cane. These split pieces then +form the seats of the chairs and the tops of the tables, instead of +the boards and large bamboo laths used at other times. It is equally +easy to make an oblong opening in a large bamboo in which to fit the +laths of a stand. + +A couple of cuts are almost enough to make a fork, a pair of tongs +or a hook. + +If one makes a hole as big as the end of one's finger in a large +bamboo close under a joint, one obtains by fastening a small piece of +cloth to the open end, a syphon or a filter. If a piece of bamboo is +split down to the joint in strips, and the strips be bound together +with others horizontally interlaced, it makes a conical basket. If +the strips are cut shorter, it makes a peddler's pack basket. If +a long handle is added, and it is filled with tar, it can be used +as a signal torch. If shallower baskets of the same dimensions, +but with their bottoms cut off or punched out, are placed inside +these conical ones, the two together make capital snare baskets for +crabs and fish. If a bamboo stem be cut off just below the joint, +and its lower edge be split up into a cogged rim, it makes, when the +partition of the joint is punched out, an earth-auger, a fountain-pipe, +and many things of the kind. + + * * * * * + +[Pleasures of travel.] Strangers travelling in the interior have +daily fresh opportunities of enjoying the hospitality of nature. The +atmosphere is so equitably warm that one would gladly dispense with +all clothing except a sun-hat and a pair of light shoes. Should one +be tempted to pass the night in the open air, the construction of a +hut from the leaves of the palm and the fern is the work of a few +minutes; [Village rest houses.] but in even the smallest village +the traveller finds a "common house" (casa real), in which he can +take up his quarters and be supplied with the necessaries of life +at the market price. There too he will always meet with semaneros +(those who perform menial duties) ready to serve him as messengers +or porters for the most trifling remuneration. But long practice +has taught me that their services principally consist in doing +nothing. On one occasion I wanted to send a man who was playing +cards and drinking tuba (fresh or weakly-fermented palm-sap) with his +companions, on an errand. [Pleasant prison life.] Without stopping his +game the fellow excused himself on the ground of being a prisoner, +and one of his guardians proceeded in the midst of the intense heat +to carry my troublesome message. Prisoners have certainly little +cause to grumble. [Frequent floggings little regarded.] The only +inconvenience to which they are exposed are the floggings which the +local authorities very liberally dispense by the dozens for the most +trifling offences. Except the momentary bodily pain, however, these +appear in most cases to make little impression on a people who have +been accustomed to corporal punishment from their youth upwards. Their +acquaintances stand round the sufferers, while the blows are being +inflicted, and mockingly ask them how it tastes. + +[Change from Malayan character.] A long residence amongst the earnest, +quiet, and dignified Malays, who are most anxious for their honor, +while most submissive to their superiors, makes the contrast in +character exhibited by the natives of the Philippines, who yet belong +to the Malay race, all the more striking. The change in their nature +appears to be a natural consequence of the Spanish rule, for the same +characteristics may be observed in the natives of Spanish America. The +class distinctions and the despotic oppression prevalent under their +former chiefs doubtless rendered the Filipinos of the past more like +the Malays of today. + + +CHAPTER V + + +[The familiar field for travellers.] The environs of Manila, the Pasig, +and the Lagoon of Bay, which are visited by every fresh arrival in the +colony, have been so often described that I have restricted myself +to a few short notes upon these parts of the country, and intend to +relate in detail only my excursions into the south-eastern provinces +of Luzon, Camarines, and Albay, and the islands which lie to the east +of them, Samar and Leyte. Before doing this, however, it will not be +out of place to glance at the map and give some slight description +of their geographical conditions. + +[Archipelago's great extent.] The Philippine Archipelago lies between +Borneo and Formosa, and separates the northern Pacific Ocean from the +China Sea. It covers fourteen and one-half degrees of latitude, and +extends from the Sulu Islands in the south, in the fifth parallel of +north latitude, to the Babuyans in the north in latitude 19° 30'. If, +however, the Bashee or Batanes Islands be included, its area may be +said to extend to the twenty-first parallel of north latitude. But +neither southwards or northwards does Spanish rule extend to these +extreme limits, nor, in fact, does it always reach the far interior +of the larger islands. From the eastern to the western extremity of +the Philippines the distance is about nine degrees of longitude. Two +islands, Luzon, with an area of two thousand, and Mindanao, with one of +more than one thousand five hundred square miles, are together larger +than all the rest. The seven next largest islands are Palawan, Samar, +Panay, Mindoro, Leyte, Negros, and Cebu; of which the first measures +about two hundred and fifty, and the last about one hundred square +miles. Then come Bohol and Masbate, each about half the size of Cebu; +twenty smaller islands, still of some importance; and numerous tiny +islets, rocks, and reefs. + +[Favored by position and conditions.] The Philippines are extremely +favored by their position and conditions. Their extension from +north to south, over 16° of latitude, obtains for them a variety of +climate which the Dutch Indies, whose largest diameter, their extent +in latitude north and south of the equator being but trifling, runs +from the east to the west, by no means enjoy. The advantages accruing +from their neighborhood to the equator are added to those acquired +from the natural variety of their climate; and the produce of both the +torrid and temperate zones, the palm-tree and the fir, the pine-apple, +the corn ear and the potato, flourish side by side upon their shores. + +[Harbors and water highways.] The larger islands contain vast inland +seas, considerable navigable rivers, and many creeks running far +into the interior; they are rich, too, in safe harbors and countless +natural ports of refuge for ships in distress. Another attribute +which, though not to be realized by a glance at the map, is yet one +of the most fortunate the Islands possess, is the countless number +of small streams which pour down from the inland hills, and open out, +ere they reach the ocean, into broad estuaries; up these watercourses +coasting vessels of shallow draught can sail to the very foot of the +mountains and take in their cargo. [Soil and sea alike productive.] The +fertility of the soil is unsurpassed; both the sea around the coasts +and the inland lakes swarm with fish and shell-fish, while in the whole +archipelago there is scarcely a wild beast to be found. It seems that +only two civets happen to appear: Miro (paradoxurus philippinensis +Tem.) and galong (viverra tangalunga Gray). Luzon surpasses all the +other islands, not only in size, but in importance; and its fertility +and other natural superiority well entitle it to be called, as it is +by Crawfurd, "the most beautiful spot in the tropics." + +[Luzon.] The mainland of the isle of Luzon stretches itself in a +compact long quadrangle, twenty-five miles broad, from 18° 40' north +latitude to the Bay of Manila (14° 30'); and then projects, amid +large lakes and deep creeks, a rugged promontory to the east, joined +to the main continent by but two narrow isthmuses which stretch east +and west of the large inland Lagoon of Bay. Many traces of recent +upheavals betoken that the two portions were once separated and +formed two distinct islands. The large eastern promontory, well-nigh +as long as the northern portion, is nearly cut in half by two deep +bays, which, starting from opposite points on the south-eastern +and north-western coasts, almost merge their waters in the center +of the peninsula; the Bay of Ragay, and the Bay of Sogod. In fact, +the southern portion of Luzon may be better described as two small +peninsulas lying next to one another in parallel positions, and joined +together by a narrow neck of land scarcely three miles broad. Two small +streams which rise nearly in the same spot and pour themselves into +the two opposite gulfs, make the separation almost complete, and form +at the same time the boundary between the province of Tayabas on the +west, and that of Camarines on the east. The western portion, indeed, +consists almost entirely of the first-named district, and the eastern +is divided into the provinces of North Camarines, South Camarines, +and Albay. The first of these three is divided from Tayabas by the +boundary already mentioned, and from South Camarines by a line drawn +from the southern shore of the Bay of San Miguel on the north to the +opposite coast. The eastern extremity of the peninsula forms the +province of Albay; separated from South Camarines by a line which +runs from Donzol, on the south coast, northwards across the volcano +of Mayon, and which then, inclining to the west, reaches the northern +shore. A look at the map will make these explanations clearer. + +[The monsoons.] There are two seasons in the Philippines, the wet and +the dry. The south-west monsoon brings the rainy season, at the time of +our summer, to the provinces which lie exposed to the south and west +winds. On the northern and eastern coasts the heaviest downpours take +place (in our winter months) during the north-eastern monsoons. The +ruggedness of the country and its numerous mountains cause, in +certain districts, many variations in these normal meteorological +conditions. The dry season lasts in Manila from November till June +(duration of the north-east monsoon); rain prevails during the +remaining months (duration of the south-west monsoon). The heaviest +rainfall occurs in September; March and April are frequently free from +rain. From October to February inclusively the weather is cool and dry +(prevalence of N.W., N., and N.E. winds); March, April, and May are +warm and dry (prevalence of E.N.E., E., and E.S.E. winds); and from +June till the end of September it is humid and moderately warm. + +There has been an observatory for many years past in Manila under +the management of the Jesuits. The following is an epitome of the +yearly meteorological report for 1867, for which I am indebted to +Professor Dove: + +Barometrical readings.--The average height of the mercury was, in 1867, +755.5; in 1865, 754.57; and in 1866, 753.37 millimeters. + +In 1867 the difference between the highest and lowest barometrical +readings was not more than 13.96 millimetres, and would have been +much less if the mercury had not been much depressed by storms in July +and September. The hourly variations amounted to very few millimeters. + +Daily reading of the barometer.--The mercury rises in the early morning +till about 9 a.m., it then falls up to 3 or 4 p.m., from then it rises +again till 9 p.m., and then again falls till towards day-break. Both +the principal atmospheric currents prevalent in Manila exercise +a great influence over the mercury in the barometer; the northern +current causes it to rise (to an average height of 756 millimeters), +the southern causes it to fall (to about 753 millimeters). + +Temperature.--The heat increases from January till the end of May, +and then decreases till December. Average yearly temperature, 27.9° +C. The highest temperature ever recorded (on the 15th of April at 3 +p.m.) was 37.7° C.; the lowest (on the 14th of December and on the +30th of January at 6 a.m.), 19.4° C. Difference, 18.3° C. [59] + +Thermometrical variations.--The differences between the highest +and lowest readings of the thermometer were, in January, 13.9°; +in February, 14.2°; in March, 15°; in April, 14.6°; in May, 11.1°; +in June, 9.9°; in July, 9°; in August, 9°; in September, 10°; in +October, 11.9°; in November, 11.8°; and in December, 11.7°. + +Coolest months.--November, December and January, with northerly winds. + +Hottest months.--April and May. Their high temperature is caused by +the change of monsoon from the north-east to the south-west. The +state of the temperature is most normal from June to September; +the variations are least marked during this period owing to the +uninterrupted rainfall and the clouded atmosphere. + +Daily variations of the thermometer.--The coolest portion of the day +is from 6 to 7 a.m.; the heat gradually increases, reaches its maximum +about 2 or 3 p.m., and then again gradually decreases. During some +hours of the night the temperature remains unchanged, but towards +morning it falls rapidly. + +[Winds.] The direction of the wind is very regular at all seasons +of the year, even when local causes make it vary a little. In the +course of a twelvemonth the wind goes around the whole compass. In +January and February north winds prevail; in March and April they blow +from the south-east; and in May, June, July, August, and September, +from the south-west. In the beginning of October they vary between +south-east and south-west, and settle down towards the close of the +month in the north-east, in which quarter they remain tolerably fixed +during the two following months. The two changes of monsoon always +take place in April and May, and in October. As a rule, the direction +of both monsoons preserves its equilibrium; but in Manila, which is +protected towards the north by a high range of hills, the north-east +monsoon is often diverted to the south-east and north-west. The same +cause gives greater force to the south-west wind. + +[Sunshine and rain.] The sky is generally partially clouded; entirely +sunny days are of rare occurrence, in fact, they only occur from +January to April during the north-east monsoons. Number of rainy days +in the year, 168. The most continuous and heaviest rain falls from +June till the end of October. During this period the rain comes down +in torrents; in September alone the rainfall amounted to 1.5 meters, +nearly as much as falls in Berlin in the course of the whole year, +3,072.8 millimeters of rain fell in the twelve month; but this is +rather more than the average. + +The evaporation only amounted to 2,307.3 millimeters; in ordinary +years it is generally about equal to the downfall, taking the early +averages, not those of single months. + +The average daily evaporation was about 6.3 millimeters. + +[Storms.] The changes of monsoons are often accompanied with tremendous +storms; during one of these, which occurred in September, the velocity +of the wind was as much as thirty-seven or thirty-eight meters per +second. An official report of the English vice-consul mentions a +typhoon which visited the Islands on September 27, 1865, and which +did much damage at Manila, driving seventeen vessels ashore. + + * * * * * + +[Provinces and districts.] The Philippines are divided into provinces +(P), and districts (D), each of which is administered by an alcalde of +the 1st (A1), 2nd (A2), or 3rd class (A3) (de termino, de ascenso, de +entrada); by a political and military governor (G), or by a commandant +(C). In some provinces an alcalde of the 3rd class is appointed as +coadjutor to the governor. These divisions are frequently changed. + +[Population.] The population is estimated approximately at about +five millions. + +[Language and dialects.] In spite of the long possessions of the +Islands by the Spaniards their language has scarcely acquired any +footing there. A great diversity of languages and dialects prevails; +amongst them the Bisayan, Tagalog, Ilocano, Bicol, Pangasinan, and +Pampangan are the most important. + +[Luzon Provinces and their languages and populations.] + +Island of Luzon + +Rank of Rank of Name Prevailing Population Pueblos +Official District Dialect + +G. P. Abra Ilocano 34,337 5 +A1. P. Albay Bicol 330,121 34 +A2. P. Bataan Tagalog, + Pampangan 44,794 10 +A1. P. Batangas Tagalog 280,100 + D. Benguet Igorot, + Ilocano, + Pangasinan 8,465 + D. Bontoc Suflin, + Ilocano, + Igorot 7,052 +A1. P. Bulacan Tagalog 240,341 23 +A1. P. Cagayan Ibanag, + Itanes, + Idayan, + Gaddan, + Ilocano, + Dadaya, + Apayao, + Malaneg 64,437 16 +A2. P. Camarines Norte Tagalog, + Bicol 25,372 7 +A2(?) P. Camarines Sur Bicol 81,047 31 +A3. P. Cavite Spanish, + Tagalog 109,501 17 +A1. P. Ilocos Norte Ilocano, + Tinguian 134,767 12 +A1. P. Ilocos Sur Ilocano 105,251 18 +C. D. Infanta Tagalog 7,813 2 +G. P. Isabela Ibanag, + Gaddan, + Tagalog 29,200 9 +A1. P. Laguna Tagalog, + Spanish 121,251 25 + D. Lepanto Igorot, + Ilocano 8,851 48 +3A1. P. Manila Tagalog, + Spanish, + Chinese 323,683 23 +C. D. Morong Tagalog 44,239 12 +A2. P. Nueva Ecija Tagalog, + Pangasinan, + Pampangan, + Ilocano 84,520 12 +A3. P. Nueva Vizcaya Gaddan, + Ifugao, + Ibilao, + Ilongote 32,961 8 +A1. P. Pampanga Pampangan, + Ilocano 193,423 24 +A1. P. Pangasinan Pangasinan, + Ilocano 253,472 25 + D. Porac Pampangan 6,950 1 +C. D. Principe Tagalog, + Ilocano, + Ilongote 3,609 3 + D. Saltan Gaddan 6,540 +A2. P. Tayabas Tagalog, + Bicol 93,918 17 + D. Tiagan Different + Igorot + dialects 5,723 +G. P. Union Ilocano 88,024 11 +A2. P. Zambales Zambal, + Ilocano, + Acta, + Pampangan, + Tagalog, + Pangasinan 72,936 16 + + +[Bisayas.] + +Islands between Luzon and Mindanao + +G a3. P. Antique (Panay) Bisayan 88,874 13 +G a3. P. Bohol Bisayan 187,327 26 + C. Burias Bicol 1,786 1 +G a3. P. Capiz (Panay) Bisayan 206,288 26 +G a2. P. Cebu Bisayan 318,715 44 +G a3. P. Iloilo (Panay) Bisayan 565,500 35 +G a3. P. Leyte Bisayan 170,591 28 + D. Masbate, Ticao Bisayan 12,457 9 +A2. P. Mindoro Tagalog 23,050 10 +G a3. P. Negros Cebuan, + Panayan, + Bisayan 144,923 31 + D. Romblon Bisayan 21,579 4 +G a3. P. Samar Bisayan 146,539 28 + + +[Mindanao.] + +Mindanao + D. Cotabato Spanish, + Manobo 1,103 1 +G a3. D. Misamis (J) Bisayan 63,639 14 +G a3. D. Surigao (J) 24,104 12 + D. Zamboanga (J) Mandaya, + Spanish 9,608 2 +G a3. D. Davao Bisayan 1,537 + + +[Outlying Islands.] + +Distant Islands + +G a3. P. Batanes Ibanag 8,381 6 +G a3. P. Calamianes Coyuvo, + Agutaino Calamiano 17,703 5 +G. P. Marianas Chamorro, Carolino 5,940 6 + + +[Unreliability of government reports.] The statistics of the above +table are taken from a small work, by Sr. [Vicente] Barrantes, +the Secretary-General of the Philippines; but I have arranged +them differently to render them more easily intelligible to the +eye. Although Sr. Barrantes had the best official materials at his +disposal, too much value must not be attributed to his figures, +for the sources from which he drew them are tainted with errors +to an extent that can hardly be realized in Europe. For example, +he derives the following contradictory statements from his official +sources:--The population of Cavite is set down as 115,300 and 65,225; +that of Mindoro as 45,630, and 23,054; that of Manila as 230,443, +and 323,683; and that of Capiz as 788,947, and 191,818. + + + +CHAPTER VI + + +[To Bulacan by steamer.] My first excursion was to the province of +Bulacan, on the northern shore of the Bay of Manila. A couple of +hours brought the steamer to the bar of Binuanga (not Bincanga as +it is called in Coello's map), and a third to Bulacan, the capital +of the province, situated on the flat banks of an influent of the +Pampanga delta. I was the only European passenger, the others were +composed of Tagalogs, mestizos, and a few Chinese; the first more +particularly were represented by women, who are generally charged with +the management of all business affairs, for which they are much better +fitted than the men. As a consequence, there are usually more women +than men seen in the streets, and it appears to be an admitted fact +that the female births are more numerous than the male. According, +however, to the church-record which I looked through, the reverse was, +at any rate in the eastern provinces, formerly the case. + +[Carromatas.] At the landing-place a number of carromatas were waiting +for us,--brightly painted, shallow, two-wheeled boxes, provided with +an awning, and harnessed to a couple of horses, in which strangers +with money to spend are quickly driven anywhere they may desire. + +[Town of Bulacan.] The town of Bulacan contains from 11,000 to 12,000 +inhabitants; but a month before my arrival, the whole of it, with the +exception of the church and a few stone houses, had been burnt to the +ground. All were therefore occupied in building themselves new houses, +which, oddly enough, but very practically, were commenced at the roof, +like houses in a drawing. Long rows of roofs composed of palm-leaves +and bamboos were laid in readiness on the ground, and in the meantime +were used as tents. + +[Frequence of fires.] Similar destructive fires are very common. The +houses, which with few exceptions are built of bamboo and wood, become +perfectly parched in the hot season, dried into so much touchwood by +the heat of the sun. Their inhabitants are extremely careless about +fire, and there are no means whatever of extinguishing it. If anything +catches fire on a windy day, the entire village, as a rule, is utterly +done for. During my stay in Bulacan, the whole suburb of San Miguel, +in the neighborhood of Manila, was burnt down, with the exception of +the house of a Swiss friend of mine, which owed its safety to the +vigorous use of a private fire-engine, and the intermediation of a +small garden full of bananas, whose stems full of sap stopped the +progress of the flames. + +[To Calumpit by carriage.] I travelled to Calumpit, a distance of +three leagues, in the handsome carriage of an hospitable friend. The +roads were good, and were continuously shaded by fruit-trees, coco and +areca palms. The aspect of this fruitful province reminded me of the +richest districts of Java; but the pueblos here exhibited more comfort +than the desas there. The houses were more substantial; numerous roomy +constructions of wood, in many cases, even, of stone, denoted in every +island the residence of official and local magnates. But while even +the poorer Javanese always give their wicker huts a smart appearance, +border the roads of their villages with blooming hedges, and display +everywhere a sense of neatness and cleanliness, there were here far +fewer evidences of taste to be met with. I missed too the alun-alun, +that pretty and carefully tended open square, which, shaded by waringa +trees, is to be met with in every village in Java. And the quantity +and variety of the fruit trees, under whose leaves the desas of Java +are almost hidden, were by no means as great in this province, although +it is the garden of the Philippines, as in its Dutch prototype. + +[Calumpit.] I reached Calumpit towards evening, just as a procession, +resplendent with flags and torches, and melodious with song, was +marching round the stately church, whose worthy priest, on the strength +of a letter of introduction from Madrid, gave me a most hospitable +reception. Calumpit, a prosperous place of 12,250 inhabitants, is +situated at the junction of the Quingua and Pampanga rivers, in an +extremely fruitful plain, fertilized by the frequent overflowing of +the two streams. + +[Mt. Arayat.] About six leagues to the north-west of Calumpit, +Mount Arayat, a lofty, isolated, conical hill, lifts its head. Seen +from Calumpit, its western slope meets the horizon at an angle of 20°, +its eastern at one of 25°; and the profile of its summit has a gentle +inclination of from 4° to 5°. + +[Picking fish.] At Calumpit I saw some Chinese catching fish in a +peculiar fashion. Across the lower end of the bed of a brook which +was nearly dried up, and in which there were only a few rivulets +left running, they had fastened a hurdle of bamboo, and thrown up a +shallow dam behind it. The water which collected was thrown over the +dam with a long-handled winnowing shovel. The shovel was tied to a +bamboo frame work ten feet high, the elasticity of which made the +work much easier. As soon as the pool was emptied, the fisherman +was easily able to pick out of the mud a quantity of small fish +(Ophiocephalus vagus). These fishes, which are provided with peculiar +organisms to facilitate respiration, at any rate, enabling them to +remain for some considerable time on dry land, are in the wet season +so numerous in the ditches, ponds, and rice-fields, that they can +be killed with a stick. When the water sinks they also retire, or, +according to Professor Semper, bore deeply into the ooze at the bottom +of the watercourses, where, protected by a hard crust of earth from +the persecutions of mankind, they sleep away the winter. This Chinese +method of fishing seems well adapted to the habits of the fish. The +circumstances that the dam is only constructed at the lower end of +the watercourse, and that it is there that the fish are to be met +with in the greatest numbers, seem to indicate that they can travel +in the ooze, and that as the brooks and ditches get dried up, they +seek the larger water channels. + +[To Baliwag.] Following the Quingua in its upward and eastward +course as it meandered through a well-cultivated and luxuriantly +fertile country, past stone-built churches and chapels which grouped +themselves with the surrounding palm-trees and bamboo-bushes into +sylvan vignettes, Father Llano's four-horsed carriage brought me to +the important town of Baliwag, the industry of which is celebrated +beyond the limits of the province. + +[Board houses and their furniture.] I visited several families and +received a friendly reception from all of them. The houses were built +of boards and were placed upon piles elevated five feet above the +ground. Each consisted of a spacious dwelling apartment which opened on +one side into the kitchen, and on the other on to an open space, the +azotea; a lofty roof of palm-trees spread itself above the dwelling, +the entrance to which was through the azotea. The latter was half +covered by the roof I have just mentioned. The floor was composed +of slats an inch in width, laid half that distance apart. Chairs, +tables, benches, a cupboard, a few small ornaments, a mirror, and some +lithographs in frames, composed the furniture of the interior. The +cleanliness of the house and the arrangement of its contents testified +to the existence of order and prosperity. + +[Tapis weaving.] I found the women in almost all the houses occupied +in weaving tapis, which have a great reputation in the Manila +market. They are narrow, thickly-woven silk scarves, six varas in +length, with oblique white stripes on a dark-brown ground. They are +worn above the sarong. + +[Petaca cigar cases.] Baliwag is also especially famous for its +petaca [60]cigar-cases, which surpass all others in delicacy of +workmanship. They are not made of straw, but of fine strips of Spanish +cane, and particularly from the lower ends of the leaf-stalks of the +calamusart, which is said to grow only in the province of Nueva Ecija. + +[Preparation of material.] A bundle of a hundred selected stalks, +a couple of feet long, costs about six reals. When these stalks have +been split lengthways into four or five pieces, the inner wood is +removed, till nothing but the outer part remains. The thin strips +thus obtained are drawn by the hand between a convex block and a +knife fixed in a sloping position, and between a couple of steel +blades which nearly meet. + +[Costly weaving.] It is a task requiring much patience and +practice. In the first operation, as a rule, quite one-half of the +stems are broken, and in the second more than half, so that scarcely +twenty per cent of the stalks survive the final process. In very fine +matting the proportionate loss is still greater. The plaiting is done +on wooden cylinders. A case of average workmanship, which costs two +dollars on the spot, can be manufactured in six days' uninterrupted +labor. Cigar-cases of exceptionally intricate workmanship, made to +order for a connoisseur, frequently cost upwards of fifty dollars. + +[Volcanic stone quarries.] Following the Quingua from Baliwag up its +stream, we passed several quarries, where we saw the thickly-packed +strata of volcanic stone which is used as a building material. The +banks of the river are thickly studded with prickly bamboos from +ten to twelve feet high. The water overflows in the rainy season, +and floods the plain for a great distance. Hence the many shells of +large freshwater mussels which are to be seen lying on the earth which +covers the volcanic deposit. The country begins to get hilly in the +neighborhood of Tobog, a small place with no church of its own, and +dependent for its services upon the priest of the next parish. The +gentle slopes of the hills are, as in Java, cut into terraces and +used for the cultivation of rice. Except at Lucban I have never +observed similar sawas anywhere else in the Philippines. Several small +sugar-fields, which, however, the people do not as yet understand +how to manage properly, show that the rudiments of agricultural +prosperity are already in existence. The roads are partly covered +with awnings, beneath which benches are placed affording repose to +the weary traveller. I never saw these out of this province. One +might fancy oneself in one of the most fertile and thickly-populated +districts of Java. + +[A convento and the parish priest.] I passed the night in a convento, +as the dwelling of the parish priest is called in the Philippines. It +was extremely dirty, and the priest, an Augustinian, was full of +proselytish ardor. I had to undergo a long geographical examination +about the difference between Prussia and Russia; was asked whether +the great city of Nuremberg was the capital of the grand-duchy or of +the empire of Russia; learnt that the English were on the point of +returning to the bosom of the Catholic Church, and that the "others" +would soon follow, and was, in short, in spite of the particular +recommendation of Father Llanos, very badly received. Some little time +afterwards I fell into the hands of two young Capuchins, who tried to +convert me, but who, with the exception of this little impertinence, +treated me capitally. They gave me pâtés de foie gras boiled in water, +which I quickly recognized by the truffles swimming about in the +grease. To punish them for their importunity I refrained from telling +my hosts the right way to cook the pâtés, which I had the pleasure of +afterwards eating in the forest, as I easily persuaded them to sell +me the tins they had left. These are the only two occasions on which +I was subjected to this kind of annoyance during my eighteen months' +residence in the Philippines. + +[Arrangements for travellers.] The traveller who is provided +with a passport is, however, by no means obliged to rely upon +priestly hospitality, as he needs must do in many isolated parts of +Europe. Every village, every hamlet, has its commonhouse, called casa +real or tribunal, in which he can take up his quarters and be supplied +with provisions at the market price, a circumstance that I was not +acquainted with on the occasion of my first trip. The traveller is +therefore in this respect perfectly independent, at least in theory, +though in practice he will often scarcely be able to avoid putting +up at the conventos in the more isolated parts of the country. In +these the priest, perhaps the only white man for miles around, is +with difficulty persuaded to miss the opportunity of housing such +a rare guest, to whom he is only too anxious to give up the best +bedroom in his dwelling, and to offer everything that his kitchen +and cellar can afford. Everything is placed before the guest in such +a spirit of sincere and undisguised friendliness, that he feels no +obligation, but on the contrary easily persuades himself that he is +doing his host a favor by prolonging his stay. Upon one occasion, +when I had determined, in spite of an invitation from the padre, +to occupy the casa real, just as I was beginning to instal myself, +the priest appeared upon the scene with the municipal officials and a +band of music which was in the neighborhood pending the preparations +for a religious festival. He made them lift me up, chair and all, +and with music and general rejoicing carried me off to his own house. + +[Kupang iron-foundry.] On the following day I paid a visit to Kupang, +an iron-foundry lying to the N.N.E of Angat, escorted by two armed +men, whose services I was pressed to accept, as the district had a bad +reputation for robberies. After travelling three or four miles in a +northerly direction, we crossed the Banauon, at that time a mere brook +meandering through shingle, but in the rainy season an impetuous stream +more than a hundred feet broad; and in a couple of hours we reached the +iron-works, an immense shed lying in the middle of the forest, with +a couple of wings at each end, in which the manager, an Englishman, +who had been wrecked some years before in Samar, lived with his wife, +a pretty mestiza. If I laid down my handkerchief, my pencil, or any +other object, the wife immediately locked them up to protect them from +the kleptomania of her servants. These poor people, whose enterprise +was not a very successful one, had to lead a wretched life. Two years +before my visit a band of twenty-seven robbers burst into the place, +sacked the house, and threw its mistress, who was alone with her +maid at the time, out of the window. She fortunately alighted without +receiving any serious hurt, but the maid, whom terror caused to jump +out of the window also, died of the injuries she received. The robbers, +who turned out to be miners and residents in Angat, were easily caught, +and, when I was there, had already spent a couple of years in prison +awaiting their trial. + +[A negrito family.] I met a negrito family here who had friendly +relations with the people in the iron-works, and were in the habit +of exchanging the produce of the forest with them for provisions. The +father of this family accompanied me on a hunting expedition. He was +armed with a bow and a couple of arrows. The arrows had spear-shaped +iron points a couple of inches long; one of them had been dipped +into arrow-poison, a mixture that looked like black tar. The women +had guitars (tabaua) similar to those used by the Mintras in the +Malay peninsula. They were made of pieces of bamboo a foot long, +to which strings of split chair-cane were fastened. [61] + +[Unwelcome hospitality.] Upon my return, to avoid spending the night +at the wretched convento where I had left my servant with my luggage, +I took the advice of my friends at the iron-works and started late, +in order to arrive at the priest's after ten o'clock at night; for +I knew that the padre shut up his house at ten, and that I could +therefore sleep, without offending him, beneath the roof of a wealthy +mestizo, an acquaintance of theirs. About half-past ten I reached +the latter's house, and sat down to table with the merry women of +the family, who were just having their supper. Suddenly my friend the +parson made his appearance from an inner room, where with a couple of +Augustinian friars, he had been playing cards with the master of the +house. He immediately began to compliment me upon my good fortune, +"for had you been but one minute later," said he, "you certainly +wouldn't have got into the convento." + + +CHAPTER VII + + +[The Lagoon of Bay.] My second trip took me up the Pasig to the great +Lagoon of Bay. I left Manila at night in a banca, a boat hollowed out +of a tree-trunk, with a vaulted roof made of bamboo and so low that it +was almost impossible to sit upright under it, which posture, indeed, +the banca-builder appeared to have neglected to consider. A bamboo +hurdle placed at the bottom of the boat protects the traveller from +the water and serves him as a couch. Jurien de la Gravière [62] +compares the banca to a cigar-box, in which the traveller is so +tightly packed that he would have little chance of saving his life +if it happened to upset. The crew was composed of four rowers and +a helmsman; their daily pay was five reals apiece, in all nearly +seven pesos, high wages for such lazy fellows in comparison with +the price of provisions, for the rice that a hard-working man ate in +a day seldom cost more than seven centavos (in the provinces often +scarcely six), and the rest of his food (fish and vegetables), only +one centavo. We passed several villages and tiendas on the banks in +which food was exposed for sale. My crew, after trying to interrupt +the journey under all sorts of pretences, left the boat as we came to +a village, saying that they were going to fetch some sails; but they +forgot to return. At last, with the assistance of the night watchman +I succeeded in hauling them out of some of their friends' houses, +where they had concealed themselves. After running aground several +times upon the sandbanks, we entered the land and hill-locked Lagoon +of Bay, and reached Jalajala early in the morning. + +[The Pasig.] The Pasig forms a natural canal, about six leagues long, +between the Bay of Manila and the Lagoon of Bay, a fresh water lake, +thirty-five leagues in circumference, that washes the shores of three +fertile provinces, Manila, Laguna and Cavite. Formerly large vessels +full of cargo used to be able to sail right up to the borders of the +lake; now they are prevented by sandbanks. Even flat-bottomed boats +frequently run aground on the Napindan and Taguig banks. [63] Were +the banks removed, and the stone bridge joining Manila to Binondo +replaced by a swing bridge, or a canal made round it, the coasting +vessels would be able to ship the produce of the lagoon provinces +at the very foot of the fields in which they grow. The traffic would +be very profitable, the waters would shrink, and the shallows along +the shore might be turned into rice and sugar fields. A scheme of +this kind was approved more than thirty years ago in Madrid, but it +was never carried into execution. The sanding up of the river has, +on the contrary, been increased by a quantity of fish reels, the +erection of which has been favored by the Colonial Waterways Board +because it reaped a small tax from them. + +[A famous plantation.] Jalajala, an estate which occupies the eastern +of the two peninsulas which run southward into the lake, is one of +the first places visited by strangers. It owes this preference to +its beautiful position and nearness to Manila, and to the fantastic +description of it by a former owner, De la Gironnière. The soil +of the peninsula is volcanic; its range of hills is very rugged, +and the watercourses bring down annually a quantity of soil from the +mountains, which increases the deposits at their base. The shore-line, +overgrown with grass and prickly sensitive-plants quite eight feet +high, makes capital pasture for carabaos. Behind it broad fields of +rice and sugar extend themselves up to the base of the hills. Towards +the north the estate is bounded by the thickly-wooded Sembrano, +the highest mountain in the peninsula; on the remaining sides it +is surrounded with water. With the exception of the flat shore, the +whole place is hilly and overgrown with grass and clumps of trees, +capital pasture for its numerous herds--a thousand carabaos, one +thousand five hundred to two thousand bullocks, and from six to seven +hundred nearly wild horses. As we were descending one of the hills, +we were suddenly surrounded by half-a-dozen armed men, who took us +for cattle-thieves, but who, to their disappointment, were obliged +to forego their expected chance of a reward. + +[Los Baños hot springs.] Beyond Jalajala, on the south coast of +the Lagoon of Bay, lies the hamlet of Los Baños, so called from a +hot spring at the foot of the Makiling volcano. Even prior to the +arrival of the Spaniards, the natives used its waters as a remedy, +[64] but they are now very little patronized. The shore of the lake is +at this point, and indeed all round its circumference, so flat that it +is impossible to land with dry feet from the shallowest canoe. It is +quite covered with sand mussels. North-west of Los Baños there lies +a small volcanic lake fringed with thick woods, called Dagatan (the +enchanted lagoon of travellers), to distinguish it from Dagât, as the +Tagals call the great Lagoon of Bay. I saw nothing of the crocodiles +which are supposed to infest it, but we flushed several flocks of wild +fowl, disturbed by our invasion of their solitude. From Los Baños I had +intended to go to Lupang Puti (white earth), where, judging from the +samples shown me, there is a deposit of fine white silicious earth, +which is purified in Manila and used as paint. I did not reach the +place, as the guide whom I had with difficulty obtained, pretended, +after a couple of miles, to be dead beat. From the inquiries I made, +however, I apprehend that it is a kind of solfatara. Several deposits +of it appear to exist at the foot of the Makiling. [65] + +[Talim island.] On my return I paid a visit to the Island of +Talim, which, with the exception of a clearing occupied by a few +miserable huts, is uninhabited and thickly overgrown with forest and +undergrowth. In the center of the Island is the Susong-Dalaga (maiden's +bosom), a dolerite hill with a beautifully formed crest. Upon the +shore, on a bare rock, I found four eggs containing fully developed +young crocodiles. When I broke the shells the little reptiles made off. + +[M. de la Gironnière.] Although the south-west monsoons generally occur +later in Jalajala than in Manila, it was already raining so hard that +I decided to go to Calauan, on the southern shore of the lake, which +is protected by Mount Makiling, and does not experience the effect of +the rainy monsoons till later in the season. I met M. de la Gironnière +in Calauan, the "gentilhomme Breton" who is so well known for telling +the most terrible adventures. He had lately returned from Europe to +establish a large sugar manufactory. His enterprise, however, was a +failure. The house of the lively old gentleman, whose eccentricity +had led him to adopt the dress and the frugal habits of the natives, +was neither clean or well kept, although he had a couple of friends +to assist him in the business, a Scotchman, and a young Frenchman +who had lived in the most refined Parisian society. + +[Llanura de Imuc.] There were several small lakes and a few empty +volcanic basins on the estate. To the south-west, not very far +from the house, and to the left of the road leading to San Pablo, +lies the Llanura de Imuc, a valley of dolerite more than a hundred +feet deep. Large blocks of basalt enable one to climb down into the +valley, the bottom of which is covered with dense growths. The center +of the basin is occupied by a neglected coffee plantation laid out +by a former proprietor. The density of the vegetation prevented my +taking more precise observations. There is another shallower volcanic +crater to the north of it. Its soil was marshy and covered with cane +and grass, but even in the rainy season it does not collect sufficient +water to turn it into a lake. It might, therefore, be easily drained +and cultivated. To the south-west of this basin, and to the right +of the road to San Pablo, lies the [Tigui-mere.] Tigui-mere. From a +plain of whitish-grey soil, covered with concentric shells as large +as a nut, rises a circular embankment with gently-sloping sides, +intersected only by a small cleft which serves as an entrance, and +which shows, on its edges denuded of vegetation, the loose rapilli of +which the embankment is formed. The sides of this natural amphitheatre +tower more than a hundred feet above its flat base. A path runs east +and west right through the center. The northern half is studded with +cocopalm trees and cultivated plants; the southern portion is full of +water nearly covered with green weeds and slime. The ground consists +of black rapilli. + +[Leaf imprints in lava.] From the Tigui-mere I returned to the +hacienda a bank formed of volcanic lava two feet in thickness +and covered with indistinct impressions of leaves. Their state of +preservation did not allow me to distinguish their species, but they +certainly belonged to some tropical genus, and are, according to +Professor A. Braun, of the same kind as those now growing there. + +There are two more small lakes half a league to the south-east. The +road leading to them is composed of volcanic remains which cover the +soil, and large blocks of lava lie in the bed of the stream. + +[Maycap Lake.] The first of the two, the Maycap Lake, is entirely +embanked with the exception of a small opening fitted with sluices +to supply water to a canal; and from its northern side, which alone +admits of an open view, the southern peak of San Cristobal may +be seen, about 73° to the north-east. Its banks, which are about +eighty feet high, rise with a gentle slope in a westerly direction, +till they join Mount Maiba, a hill about 500 feet high. The soil, +like that of the embankments of the other volcanic lakes, consists +of rapilli and lava, and is thickly wooded. + +[Lake Palakpakan.] Close by is another lake, Palakpakan, of nearly +the same circumference, and formed in a similar manner (of black +sand and rapilli). Its banks are from thirty to one hundred feet +high. From its north-western edge San Cristobal lifts its head 70° to +the northeast. Its waters are easily reached, and are much frequented +by fishermen. + +[Palm brandy.] About nine o'clock, a.m., I rode from Calauan to Pila, +and thence in a northeasterly direction to Santa Cruz, over even, +broad, and well-kept roads, through a palm-grove a mile long and a +mile and a half broad, which extends down to the very edge of the +lagoons. The products of these palm trees generally are not used +for the production of oil but for the manufacture of brandy. Their +fruit is not allowed to come to maturity; but the buds are slit open, +and the sweet sap is collected as it drips from them. It is then +allowed to ferment, and subjected to distillation. [66] As the sap +is collected twice a day, and as the blossoms, situated at the top +of the tree, are forty or fifty feet above the ground, bamboos are +fastened horizontally, one above the other, from one tree to another, +to facilitate the necessary ascent and descent. The sap collector +stands on the lower cross-piece while he holds on to the upper. + +[Bought by government.] The sale of palm-brandy was at the time of my +visit the monopoly of the government, which retailed it in the Estanco +(government sale rooms) with cigars, stamped paper, and religious +indulgences. The manufacture was carried on by private individuals; +but the whole of the brandy was of necessity disposed of to the +administration, which, however, paid such a high price for it that +the contractors made large profits. + +[Profit in manufacture.] I afterwards met a Spaniard in Camarines who, +according to his own account, must have made considerable and easy +gains from these contracts. He had bought palm-trees at an average +price of five reals apiece (they usually cost more, though they can +be sometimes purchased for two reals). Thirty-five palms will furnish +daily at least thirty-six quarts of tuba (sugar-containing sap), from +which, after fermentation and distillation, six quarts of brandy of +the prescribed strength can be manufactured. One man is sufficient to +attend to them, and receives for his trouble half the proceeds. The +administration pays six cuartos for a quart of brandy. My friend the +contractor was in annual receipt, therefore, from every thirty-five +of his trees, of 360 × 1/2 × 5 cuartos = $40.50. As the thirty-five +trees only cost him $21.875, his invested capital brought him in +about 200 per cent. + +[Wine and liquor monopoly a failure.] The proceeds of this monopoly +(wines and liquors) were rated at $1,622,810 in the colonial budget for +1861; but its collection was so difficult, and so disproportionately +expensive, that it nearly swallowed up the whole profit. It caused +espionage, robberies of all sorts, embezzlement, and bribery on a +large scale. The retail of the brandy by officials, who are paid by a +percentage on the consumption, did a good deal to injure the popular +respect for the government. Moreover, the imposition of this improper +tax on the most important industry of the country not only crippled +the free trade in palms, but also the manufacture of raw sugar; +for the government, to favor their own monopoly, had forbidden the +sugar manufacturers to make rum from their molasses, which became +in consequence so valueless that in Manila they gave it to their +horses. The complaints of the manufacturers at last stirred up the +administration to allow the manufacture of rum; but the palm-brandy +monopoly remained intact. The Filipinos now drank nothing but rum, +so that at last, in self-defence, the government entirely abandoned +the monopoly (January, 1864). Since that, the rum manufacturers pay +taxes according to the amount of their sale, but not upon the amount +of their raw produce. In order to cover the deficit occasioned by +the abandonment of the brandy monopoly, the government has made a +small increase in the poll-tax. The practice of drinking brandy has +naturally much increased; it is, however, a very old habit. [67] With +this exception, the measure has had the most favorable consequences. + +[Santa Cruz.] Santa Cruz is a lively, prosperous place (in 1865 it +contained 11,385 inhabitants), through the center of which runs a +river. As the day on which we passed through it was Sunday, the stream +was full of bathers, amongst them several women, their luxuriant hair +covered with broad-brimmed hats to shade them from the sun. From the +ford the road takes a sharp turn and inclines first to the east and +then to the south-east, till it reaches Magdalena, between which and +Majaijai the country becomes hilly. Just outside the latter, a viaduct +takes the road across a deep ravine full of magnificent ferns, which +remind the traveller of the height--more than 600 feet--above the sea +level to which he has attained. The spacious convento at Majaijai, +built by the Jesuits, is celebrated for its splendid situation. The +Lagoon of Bay is seen to extend far to the north-east; in the distance +the Peninsula of Jalajala and the Island of Talim, from which rises +the Susong-Dalaga volcano, terminate the vista. From the convento to +the lake stretches an endless grove of coco-trees, while towards the +south the slope of the distant high ground grows suddenly steeper, +and forms an abruptly precipitous conical hill, intersected by deep +ravines. This is the Banajao or Majaijai volcano, and beside it Mount +San Cristobal rears its bell-shaped summit. + +[Scenery along Lucban-Maubon road.] As everybody was occupied with +the preparations for an ensuing religious festival, I betook myself, +through Lucban on the eastern shore, to Mauban, situated amidst +deep ravines and masses of lava at the foot of Mount Majaijai. The +vegetation was of indescribable beauty, and the miserable road +was enlivened with cheerful knots of pedestrians hastening to the +festival. [68] + +[Lucban.] I reached Lucban in three hours; it is a prosperous place +of 13,000 inhabitants, to the north-east of Majaijai. A year after my +visit it burnt to the ground. The agricultural produce of the district +is not very important, owing to the mountainous nature of the country; +but considerable industrial activity prevails there. The inhabitants +weave fine straw hats from the fibre of the leaf of the buri palm-tree +(corypha sp.), manufacture pandanus mats, and carry on a profitable +trade at Mauban with the placer miners of North Camarines. The entire +breadth of the road is covered with cement, and along its center flows, +in an open channel, a sparkling rivulet. + +[Java-like rice fields.] The road from Lucban to Mauban, which is +situated on the bay of Lamon, opposite to the Island of Alabat, winds +along the narrow watercourse of the Mapon river, through deep ravines +with perpendicular cliffs of clay. I observed several terrace-formed +rice-fields similar to those so prevalent in Java, an infrequent +sight in the Philippines. Presently the path led us into the very +thick of the forest. Nearly all the trees were covered with aroides +and creeping ferns; amongst them I noticed the angiopteris, pandanus, +and several large specimens of the fan palm. + +[Mapon river.] Three leagues from Lucban the river flows under a rock +supported on prismatically shaped pillars, and then runs through a +bed of round pebbles, composed of volcanic stone and white lime, as +hard as marble, in which impressions of shell-fish and coral can be +traced. Further up the river the volcanic rubble disappears, and the +containing strata then consist of the marble-like pebbles cemented +together with calcareous spar. These strata alternate with banks of +clay and coarse-grained soil, which contain scanty and badly preserved +imprints of leaves and mussel-fish. Amongst them, however, I observed +a flattened but still recognizable specimen of the fossil melania. The +river-bed must be quite five hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +[Bamboo raft ferry.] About a league beyond Mauban, as it was getting +dusk, we crossed the river, then tolerably broad, on a wretched leaking +bamboo raft, which sank at least six inches beneath the water under +the weight of our horses, and ran helplessly aground in the mud on +the opposite side. + +[Visitors to festival.] The tribunal or common-house was crowded with +people who had come to attend the festival which was to take place +on the following day. The cabezas wore, in token of their dignity, +a short jacket above their shirts. A quantity of brightly decorated +tables laden with fruit and pastry stood against the walls, and in +the middle of the principal room a dining-table was laid out for +forty persons. + +[Hospitality of tribunal.] A European who travels without a +servant--mine had run away with some wages I had rashly paid +him in advance--is put down as a beggar, and I was overwhelmed +with impertinent questions on the subject, which, however, I left +unanswered. As I hadn't had the supper I stood considerably in need of, +I took the liberty of taking a few savory morsels from the meatpot, +which I ate in the midst of a little knot of wondering spectators; +I then laid myself down to sleep on the bench beside the table, to +which a second set of diners were already sitting down. When I awoke +on the following morning there were already so many people stirring +that I had no opportunity of performing my toilet. I therefore betook +myself in my dirty travelling dress to the residence of a Spaniard who +had settled in the pueblo, and who received me in the most hospitable +manner as soon as the description in my passport satisfied him that +I was worthy of a confidence not inspired by my appearance. + +[Trade in molaze.] My friendly host carried on no trifling +business. Two English ships were at that moment in the harbor, which +he was about to send to China laden with molave, a species of wood +akin to teak. + +[Butucan waterfall.] On my return I visited the fine waterfall of +Butucan, between Mauban and Lucban, a little apart from the high +road. A powerful stream flows between two high banks of rocky +soil thickly covered with vegetation, and, leaping from a ledge +of volcanic rock suddenly plunges into a ravine, said to be three +hundred and sixty feet in depth, along the bottom of which it is +hurried away. The channel, however, is so narrow, and the vegetation +so dense, that an observer looking at it from above can not follow +its course. This waterfall has a great similarity to that which falls +from the Semeru in Java. Here, as there, a volcanic stream flowing over +vast rocky deposits forms a horizontal watercourse, which in its turn +is overshadowed with immense masses of rock. The water easily forces +its way between these till it reaches the solid lava, when it leaves +its high, narrow, and thickly-wooded banks, and plunges into the deep +chasm it has itself worn away. The pouring rain unfortunately prevented +me from sketching this fine fall. It was raining when I reached the +convento of Majaijai, and it was still raining when I left it three +days later, nor was there any hope of improvement in the weather for +another month to come. "The wet season lasts for eight or nine months +in Majaijai, and during the whole period scarcely a day passes without +the rain falling in torrents."--Estado geograph. + +[Majaijai.] To ascend the volcano was under such circumstances +impracticable. According to some notes written by the Majaijai +priest, an ascent and survey of Mount Banajao was made on the 22nd +of April, 1858, by Senors Roldan and Montero, two able Spanish naval +officers, specially charged with the revision of the marine chart +of the archipelago. From its summit they took observations of Manila +cathedral, of Mayon, another volcano in Albay, and of the Island of +Polillo. They estimated the altitude of Banajao to be seven thousand +and twenty Spanish feet, and the depth of its crater to be seven +hundred. The crater formerly contained a lake, but the last eruption +made a chasm in its southern side through which the water flowed +away. [69] + +[Calauan.] I reached Calauan in the pouring rain, wading through the +soft spongy clay upon wretched, half-starved ponies, and found I must +put off my water journey to Manila till the following day, as there +was no boat on the lake at this point. The next morning there were no +horses to be found; and it was not till the afternoon that I procured +a cart and a couple of carabaos to take me to Santa Cruz, whence in the +evening the market-vessel started for Manila. One carabao was harnessed +in front; the other was fastened behind the cart in order that I might +have a change of animals when the first became tired. Carabao number +one wouldn't draw, and number two acted as a drag--rather useless +apparatus on a level road--so I changed them. As soon as number two +felt the load it laid down. A few blows persuaded it to pick itself up, +when it deliberately walked to the nearest pool and dropped into it. It +was with the greatest trouble that we unharnessed the cart and pushed +it back on to the road, while our two considerate beasts took a mud +bath. At last we reloaded the baggage, the carabaos were reharnessed in +the original positions, and the driver, leaning his whole weight upon +the nose-rope of the leading beast, pulled with might and main. To my +great delight the animal condescended to slowly advance with the cart +and its contents. [Pila.] At Pila I managed to get a better team, with +which late in the evening, in the midst of a pouring rain, I reached +a little hamlet opposite Santa Cruz. The market-vessel had left; our +attempts to get a boat to take us across to the village only led to +barefaced attempts at extortion, so I entered one of the largest of the +hamlet's houses, which was occupied by a widow and her daughter. After +some delay my request for a night's lodging was granted. I sent for +some oil, to give me a little light, and something to eat. The women +brought in some of their relations, who helped to prepare the food +and stopped in the house to protect its owners. The next morning +I crossed the river, teeming with joyous bathers, to Santa Cruz, +and hired a boat there to take me across the lake to Pasig, and from +thence to Manila. A contrary wind, however, forced us to land on the +promontory of Jalajala, and there wait for the calm that accompanies +the dawn. [Earthquake evidences.] Betwixt the extreme southern point +of the land and the houses I saw, in several places, banks of mussels +projecting at least fifteen feet above the surface of the water, +similar to those which are so frequently found on the sea-coast;--a +proof that earthquakes have taken place in this neighborhood. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + + +[To Albay by schooner.] Towards the end of August I started from +Manila for Albay in a schooner which had brought a cargo of hemp and +was returning in ballast. It was fine when we set sail; but on the +following day the signs of a coming storm increased so rapidly that +the captain resolved to return and seek protection in the small but +secure harbor of Mariveles, a creek on the southern shore of Bataan, +the province forming the western boundary of Manila bay. We reached +it about two o'clock in the night after cruising about for fourteen +hours before the entrance; and we were obliged to remain here at anchor +for a fortnight, as it rained and stormed continuously for that period. + +[Mariveles.] The weather obliged me to limit my excursions to the +immediate neighborhood of Mariveles. Unfortunately it was not till the +close of our stay that I learnt that there was a colony of negritos in +the mountains; and it was not till just before my departure that I got +a chance of seeing and sketching a couple of them, male and female. The +inhabitants of Mariveles have not a very good reputation. The place +is only visited by ships which run in there in bad weather, when +their idle crews spend the time in drinking and gambling. Some of +the young girls were of striking beauty and of quite a light color; +often being in reality of mixed race, though they passed as of pure +Tagal blood. This is a circumstance I have observed in many seaports, +and in the neighborhood of Manila; but, in the districts which are +almost entirely unvisited by the Spaniards, the natives are much +darker and of purer race. + +[Storm-bound shipping.] The number of ships which were seeking +protection from the weather in this port amounted to ten, of which +three were schooners. Every morning regularly a small pontin [70] +used to attempt to set sail; but it scarcely got a look at the +open sea before it returned, when it was saluted with the jeers and +laughter of the others. It was hunger that made them so bold. The +crew, who had taken some of their own produce to Manila, had spent +the proceeds of their venture, and had started on their return voyage +scantily provided with provisions, with the hope and intention of soon +reaching their home, which they could have done with any favorable +wind. Such cases frequently occur. A few natives unite to charter +a small vessel, and load it with the produce of their own fields, +which they set off to sell in Manila. + +[The straits.] The straits between the Islands resemble beautiful +wide rivers with charming spots upon the banks inhabited by small +colonies; and the sailors generally find the weather gets squally +towards evening, and anchor till the morning breaks. + +[Filipino hospitality.] The hospitable coast supplies them with fish, +crabs, plenty of mussels, and frequently unprotected coconuts. If it +is inhabited, so much the better. Filipino hospitality is ample, and +much more comprehensive than that practised in Europe. The crews are +accommodated in the different huts. After a repast shared in common, +and washed down by copious draughts of palm-wine, mats are streched +on the floor; the lamps--large shells, fitted with rush wicks--are +extinguished, and the occupants of the hut fall asleep together. Once, +as I was sailing into the bay of Manila after a five day's cruise, we +overtook a craft which had sailed from the same port as we had with a +cargo of coconut oil for Manila, and which had spent six months upon +its trip. It is by no means uncommon for a crew which makes a long +stay in the capital to squander the whole proceeds of their cargo, +if they have not done it before reaching town. + +[Coasting Luzon.] At last one evening, when the storm had quite passed +away, we sailed out of Mariveles. A small, volcanic, pillar-shaped +rock, bearing a striking resemblance to the Island of the Cyclops, +off the coast of Sicily, lies in front of the harbor--like there, a +sharp pyramid and a small, flat island. We sailed along the coast of +Cavite till we reached Point Santiago, the southwestern extremity of +Luzon, and then turned to the east, through the fine straits that lie +between Luzon to the north and the Bisayan islands to the south. As +the sun rose, a beautiful spectacle presented itself. To the north +was the peak of the Taal volcano, towering above the flat plains of +Batangas; and to the south the thickly-wooded, but rock-bound coast +of Mindoro, the iron line of which was broken by the harbor of Porto +Galera, protected from the fury of the waves by a small islet lying +immediately before it. The waters around us were thickly studded with +vessels which had taken refuge from the storm in the Bisayan ports, +and were now returning to Manila. + +[Importance of straits.] These straits, which extend from the +south-east to the northwest, are the great commercial highway of +the Archipelago, and remain navigable during the whole year, being +protected from the fury of the north-easterly winds by the sheltering +peninsula of Luzon, which projects to the south-east, and by Samar, +which extends in a parallel direction; while the Bisayan islands +shield them from the blasts that blow from the south-west. The +Islands of Mindoro, Panay, Negros, Cebu and Bohol, which Nature has +placed in close succession to each other, form the southern borders +of the straits; and the narrow cross channels between them form as +many outlets to the Sea of Mindoro, which is bounded on the west +by Palawan, on the east by Mindanao, and on the south by the Sulu +group. The eastern waters of the straits wash the coasts of Samar +and Leyte, and penetrate through three small channels only to the +great ocean; the narrow straits of San Bernardino, of San Juanico, +and of Surigao. Several considerable, and innumerable smaller islets, +lie within the area of these cursorily explained outlines. + +[Batangas coast.] A couple of bays on the south coast of Batangas +offer a road-stead, though but little real protection, to passing +vessels, which in stormy weather make for Porto Galera, in the Island +of Mindoro, which lies directly opposite. A river, a league and a +half in length, joins Taal, the principal port of the province, to +the great inland sea of Taal, or Bombon. This stream was formerly +navigable; but it has now become so sanded up that it is passable +only at flood tides, and then only by very small vessels. + +[Batangas exports.] The province of Batangas supplies Manila with +its best cattle, and exports sugar and coffee. + +A hilly range bounds the horizon on the Luzon side; the striking +outlines of which enable one to conjecture its volcanic origin. Most +of the smaller islands to the south appear to consist of superimposed +mountainous ranges, terminating seaward in precipitous cliffs. The +lofty and symmetrical peak of Mount Mayon is the highest point in the +panoramic landscape. Towards evening we sighted Mount Bulusan, in the +south-eastern extremity of Luzon; and presently we turned northwards, +and sailed up the Straits of San Bernardino, which separate Luzon +from Samar. + +[Bulusan like Vesuvius.] The Bulusan volcano, "which appears to have +been for a long time extinct, but which again began to erupt in 1852," +[71] is surprisingly like Vesuvius in outline. It has, like its +prototype, a couple of peaks. The western one, a bell-shaped summit, +is the eruption cone. The eastern apex is a tall, rugged mound, +probably the remains of a huge circular crater. As in Vesuvius, the +present crater is in the center of the extinct one. The intervals +between them are considerably larger and more uneven than the Atrio +del Cavallo of the Italian volcano. + +[San Bernardino current.] The current is so powerful in the Straits +of San Bernardino that we were obliged to anchor twice to avoid +being carried back again. To our left we had continually in view the +magnificent Bulusan volcano, with a hamlet of the same name nestling at +the foot of its eastern slope in a grove of coco-trees, close to the +sea. Struggling with difficulty against the force of the current, we +succeeded, with the assistance of light and fickle winds, in reaching +Legaspi, the port of Albay, on the following evening. Our skipper, a +Spaniard, had determined to accomplish the trip as rapidly as possible. + +[A native captain.] On my return voyage, however, I fell into the hands +of a native captain; and, as my cruise under his auspices presented +many peculiarities, I may quote a few passages relating to it from +my diary.... The skipper intended to have taken a stock of vegetables +for my use, but he had forgotten them. He therefore landed on a small +island, and presently made his reappearance with a huge palm cabbage, +which, in the absence of its owner, he had picked from a tree he +cut down for the purpose.... On another occasion the crew made a +descent upon a hamlet on the north-western coast of Leyte to purchase +provisions. Instead of laying in a stock for the voyage at Tacloban, +the sailors preferred doing so at some smaller village on the shores +of the straits, where food is cheaper, and where their landing gave +them a pretext to run about the country. The straits of San Juanico, +never more than a mile, and often only eight hundred feet broad, +are about twenty miles in length: yet it often takes a vessel a week +to sail up them; for contrary winds and an adverse current force it +to anchor frequently and to lie to for whole nights in the narrower +places. Towards evening our captain thought that the sky appeared +very threatening, so he made for the bay of Navo, of Masbate. [An +intermittent voyage.] There he anchored, and a part of the crew went +on shore. The next day was a Sunday; the captain thought "the sky +still appeared very threatening;" and besides he wanted to make some +purchases. So we anchored again off Magdalena, where we passed the +night. On Monday a favorable wind took us, at a quicker rate, past +Marinduque and the rocky islet of Elefante, which lies in front of +it. Elefante appears to be an extinct volcano; it looks somewhat like +the Iriga, but is not so lofty. It is covered with capital pasture, +and its ravines are dotted with clumps of trees. Nearly a thousand +head of half-wild cattle were grazing on it. They cost four dollars +a-piece; and their freight to Manila is as much more, where they sell +for sixteen dollars. They are badly tended, and many are stolen by +the passing sailors. My friend the captain was full of regret that the +favorable wind gave him no opportunity of landing; perhaps I was the +real obstacle. "They were splendid beasts! How easy it would be to put +a couple on board! They could scarcely be said to have any real owners; +the nominal proprietors were quite unaware how many they possessed, +and the herd was continually multiplying without any addition from its +masters. A man lands with a little money in his pocket. If he meets a +herdsman, he gives him a dollar, and the poor creature thinks himself +a lucky fellow. If not, so much the better. He can do the business +himself; a barrel of shot or a sling suffices to settle the matter." + +[Plunder.] As we sailed along we saw coming towards us another vessel, +the Luisa, which suddenly executed a very extraordinary tack; and in a +minute or two its crew sent up a loud shout of joy, having succeeded +in stealing a fishbox which the fishermen of Marinduque had sunk in +the sea. They had lowered a hook, and been clever enough to grapple +the rope of the floating buoy. Our captain was beside himself with +envy of their prize. + +[Legaspi.] Legaspi is the principal port of the province of Albay. Its +road-stead, however, is very unsafe, and, being exposed to the +north-easterly storms, is perfectly useless during the winter. The +north-east wind is the prevailing one on this coast; the south-west +breeze only blows in June and July. The heaviest storms occur between +October and January. They generally set in with a gentle westerly wind, +accompanied with rain. The gale presently veers round to the north +or the south, and attains the height of its fury when it reaches +the north-east or the south-east. After the storm a calm generally +reigns, succeeded by the usual wind of the prevailing monsoon. The +lightly-built elastic houses of the country are capitally suited +to withstand these storms; but roofs and defective houses are +frequently carried away. The traffic between Manila and Legaspi is +at its height between January and October; but during the autumn +months all communication by water ceases. The letter-post, which +arrives pretty regularly every week, is then the only link between +the two places. At this season heavy packages can be sent only by +a circuitous and expensive route along the south coast, and thence +by water to Manila. Much more favorably situated for navigation is +the port of [Sorsogon.] Sorsogon, the mouth of which opens to the +west, and is protected by the Island of Bagalao, which lies in front +of it. Besides its security as a harbor, it has the advantage of a +rapid and unbroken communication with the capital of the archipelago, +while vessels sailing from Legaspi, even at the most favorable time +of the year, are obliged to go round the eastern peninsula of Luzon, +and meet the principal current of the Straits of San Bernardino, +frequently a very difficult undertaking; and, moreover, small vessels +obliged to anchor there are in great danger of being captured by +pirates. The country about Sorsogon, however, is not so fertile as +the neighborhood of Legaspi. + +[A worthy official.] I took letters of introduction with me to both +the Spanish authorities of the province; who received me in the most +amiable way, and were of the greatest use to me during the whole of +my stay in the vicinity. I had also the good fortune to fall in with +a model alcalde, a man of good family and of most charming manners; +in short, a genuine caballero. To show the popular appreciation of +the honesty of his character, it was said of him in Samar that he +had entered the province with nothing but a bundle of papers, and +had left it as lightly equipped. + + +CHAPTER IX + + +[Daraga.] My Spanish friends enabled me to rent a house in Daraga, +[72] a well-to-do town of twenty thousand inhabitants at the foot +of the Mayon, a league and a half from Legaspi. The summit of this +volcano was considered inaccessible until two young Scotchmen, Paton +and Stewart by name, demonstrated the contrary. [73] Since then +several natives have ascended the mountain, but no Europeans. + +[Ascent of Mayon.] I set out on September 25th, and passed the night, +by the advice of Señor Muños, in a hut one thousand feet above the +level of the sea, in order to begin the ascent the next morning with +unimpaired vigor. But a number of idlers who insisted on following +me, and who kept up a tremendous noise all night, frustrated the +purpose of this friendly advice; and I started about five in the +morning but little refreshed. The fiery glow I had noticed about the +crater disappeared with the dawn. The first few hundred feet of the +ascent were covered with a tall grass quite six feet high; and then +came a slope of a thousand feet or so of short grass succeeded by a +quantity of moss; but even this soon disappeared, and the whole of +the upper part of the mountain proved entirely barren. We reached +the summit about one o'clock. It was covered with fissures which +gave out sulphurous gases and steam in such profusion that we were +obliged to stop our mouths and nostrils with our handkerchiefs to +prevent ourselves from being suffocated. We came to a halt at the +edge of a broad and deep chasm, from which issued a particularly +dense vapor. Apparently we were on the brink of a crater, but the +thick fumes of the disagreeable vapor made it impossible for us to +guess at the breadth of the fissure. The absolute top of the volcano +consisted of a ridge, nearly ten feet thick, of solid masses of stone +covered with a crust of lava bleached by the action of the escaping +gas. Several irregular blocks of stone lying about us showed that the +peak had once been a little higher. When, now and again, the gusts +of wind made rifts in the vapor, we perceived on the northern corner +of the plateau several rocky columns at least a hundred feet high, +which had hitherto withstood both storm and eruption. I afterwards +had an opportunity of observing the summit from Daraga with a capital +telescope on a very clear day, when I noticed that the northern side +of the crater was considerably higher than its southern edge. + +[The descent.] Our descent took some time. We had still two-thirds +of it beneath us when night overtook us. In the hope of reaching +the hut where we had left our provisions, we wandered about till +eleven o'clock, hungry and weary, and at last were obliged to wait +for daylight. This misfortune was owing not to our want of proper +precaution, but to the unreliability of the carriers. Two of them, +whom we had taken with us to carry water and refreshments, had +disappeared at the very first; and a third, "a very trustworthy +man," whom we had left to take care of our things at the hut, and +who had been ordered to meet us at dusk with torches, had bolted, +as I afterwards discovered, back to Daraga before noon. My servant, +too, who was carrying a woolen blanket and an umbrella for me, +suddenly vanished in the darkness as soon as it began to rain, and +though I repeatedly called him, never turned up again till the next +morning. We passed the wet night upon the bare rocks, where, as our +very thin clothes were perfectly wet through, we chilled till our +teeth chattered. As soon, however, as the sun rose we got so warm +that we soon recovered our tempers. Towards nine o'clock we reached +the hut and got something to eat after twenty-nine hours' fast. + +[A suspicious medal.] In the Trabajos y Hechos Nolables de la +Soc. Econom. de los Amigos del Pais, for September 4th, 1823, it is +said that "Don Antonio Siguenza paid a visit to the volcano of Albay +on March 11th," and that the Society "ordered a medal to be struck in +commemoration of the event, and in honor of the aforesaid Siguenza and +his companions." Everybody in Albay, however, assured me that the two +Scotchmen were the first to reach the top of the mountain. It is true +that in the above notice the ascent of the volcano is not directly +mentioned; but the fact of the medal naturally leads us to suppose +that nothing less can be referred to. Arenas, in his memoir, says: +"Mayon was surveyed by Captain Siguenza. From the crater to the base, +which is nearly at the level of the sea, he found that it measured +sixteen hundred and eighty-two Spanish feet or four sixty-eight and +two-third meters." A little further on, he adds, that he had read +in the records of the Society that they had had a gold medal struck +in honor of Siguenza, who had made some investigations about the +volcano's crater in 1823. He, therefore, appears to have had some +doubt about Siguenza's actual ascent. + +[An early friar attempt.] According to the Franciscan records a couple +of monks attempted the ascent in 1592, in order to cure the natives +of their superstitious belief about the mountain. One of them never +returned; but the other, although he did not reach the summit, being +stopped by three deep abysses, made a hundred converts to Christianity +by the mere relation of his adventures. He died in the same year, +in consequence, it is recorded, of the many variations of temperature +to which he was exposed in his ascent of the volcano. + +[Estimates of height] Some books say that the mountain is of +considerable height; but the Estado Geografico of the Franciscans for +1855, where one could scarcely expect to find such a thoughtless +repetition of so gross a typographical error, says that the +measurements of Siguenza give the mountain a height of sixteen +hundred and eighty-two feet. According to my own barometrical reading, +the height of the summit above the level of the sea was twenty-three +hundred and seventy-four meters, or eighty-five hundred and fifty-nine +Spanish feet. + + +CHAPTER X + + +[An accident and a month's rest.] I sprained my foot so badly in +ascending Mayon that I was obliged to keep the house for a month. Under +the circumstances, I was not sorry to find myself settled in a roomy +and comfortable dwelling. My house was built upon the banks of a +small stream, and stood in the middle of a garden in which coffee, +cacao, oranges, papayas, and bananas grew luxuriantly, in spite of +the tall weeds which surrounded them. Several over-ripe berries had +fallen to the ground, and I had them collected, roasted, mixed with +an equal quantity of sugar, and made into chocolate; an art in which +the natives greatly excel. With the Spaniards chocolate takes the +place of coffee and tea, and even the mestizos and the well-to-do +natives drink a great deal of it. + +[Cacao] The cacao-tree comes from Central America. It flourishes +there between the 23rd parallel north and the 20th south latitude; +but it is only at its best in the hottest and dampest climates. In +temperate climates, where the thermometer marks less than 23° C., +it produces no fruit. + +[High quality.] It was first imported into the Philippines from +Acapulco; either, according to Camarines, by a pilot called Pedro +Brabo de Lagunas, in 1670; or, according to Samar, by some Jesuits, +during Salcedo's government, between 1663 and 1668. Since then +it has spread over the greater part of the Island; and, although +it is not cultivated with any excessive care, its fruit is of +excellent quality. The cacao of Albay, if its cheapness be taken into +consideration, may be considered at least equal to that of Caracas, +which is so highly-prized in Europe, and which, on account of its +high price, generally is largely mixed with inferior kinds. [74] +The bushes are usually found in small gardens, close to the houses; +but so great is the native laziness that frequently the berries are +allowed to decay, although the local cacao sells for a higher price +than the imported. At Cebu and Negros a little more attention is paid +to its cultivation; [Scanty production.] but it does not suffice to +supply the wants of the colony, which imports the deficiency from +Ternate and Mindanao. The best cacao of the Philippines is produced in +the small Island of Maripipi, which lies to the north-west of Leyte; +and it is difficult to obtain, the entire crop generally being long +bespoke. It costs about one dollar per liter, whereas the Albay cacao +costs from two to two and a half dollars per "ganta" (three liters). + +[Culture.] The natives generally cover the kernels, just as they +are beginning to sprout, with a little earth, and, placing them +in a spirally-rolled leaf, hang them up beneath the roof of their +dwellings. They grow very rapidly, and, to prevent their being +choked by weeds, are planted out at very short intervals. This +method of treatment is probably the reason that the cacao-trees in +the Philippines never attain a greater height than eight or ten feet, +while in their native soil they frequently reach thirty, and sometimes +even forty feet. The tree begins to bear fruit in its third or fourth +year, and in its fifth or sixth it reaches maturity, when it usually +yields a "ganta" of cacao, which, as I have mentioned, is worth from +two to two and a half dollars, and always finds a purchaser. [75] + +[Neglect.] The profits arising from a large plantation would, +therefore, be considerable; yet it is very rare to meet with one. I +heard it said that the Economical Society had offered a considerable +reward to any one who could exhibit a plantation of ten thousand +berry-bearing trees; but in the Society's report I found no mention +of this reward. + +[Damage by storms.] The great obstacles in the way of large plantations +are the heavy storms which recur almost regularly every year, +and often destroy an entire plantation in a single day. In 1856 a +hurricane visited the Island just before the harvest, and completely +tore up several large plantations by the roots; a catastrophe that +naturally has caused much discouragement to the cultivators. [76] +One consequence of this state of things was that the free importation +of cacao was permitted, and people were enabled to purchase Guayaqual +cacao at fifteen dollars per quintal while that grown at home cost +double the money. + +[Diseases and pests.] The plant is sometimes attacked by a disease, +the origin of which is unknown, when it suffers severely from certain +noxious insects. [77] It is also attacked by rats and other predatory +vermin; the former sometimes falling upon it in such numbers that +they destroy the entire harvest in a single night. Travellers in +America say that a well-kept cacao plantation is a very picturesque +sight. In the Philippines, however, or at any rate in East Luzon, +the closely-packed, lifeless-looking, moss-covered trees present a +dreary spectacle. Their existence is a brief one. Their oval leaves, +sometimes nearly a foot long, droop singly from the twigs, and form +no luxuriant masses of foliage. Their blossoms are very insignificant; +they are of a reddish-yellow, no larger than the flowers of the lime, +and grow separately on long weedy stalks. The fruit ripens in six +months. When it is matured, it is of either a red or a yellow tint, +and is somewhat like a very rough gherkin. Only two varieties appear to +be cultivated in the Philippines. [78] The pulp of the fruit is white, +tender, and of an agreeable acid taste, and contains from eighteen +to twenty-four kernels, arranged in five rows. These kernels are as +large as almonds, and, like them, consist of a couple of husks and a +small core. This is the cacao bean; which, roasted and finely ground, +produces cacao, and with the addition of sugar, and generally of +spice, makes chocolate. Till the last few years, every household +in the Philippines made its own chocolate, of nothing but cacao +and sugar. The natives who eat chocolate often add roasted rice to +it. Nowadays there is a manufactory in Manila, which makes chocolate +in the European way. The inhabitants of the eastern provinces are +very fond of adding roasted pili nuts to their chocolate. [79] + +[Chocolate.] Europeans first learnt to make a drink from cacao in +Mexico, where the preparation was called chocolatl. [80] Even so far +back as the days of Cortes, who was a tremendous chocolate drinker, +the cacao-tree was extensively cultivated. The Aztecs used the beans +as money; and Montezuma used to receive part of his tribute in this +peculiar coin. It was only the wealthy among the ancient Mexicans +who ate pure cacao; the poor, on account of the value of the beans +as coins, used to mix maize and mandioca meal with them. Even in our +own day the inhabitants of Central America make use of the beans as +small coins, as they have no copper money, nor smaller silver coins +than the half-real. Both in Central America and in Orinoco there yet +are many unpenetrated forests which are almost entirely composed of +wild cacao-trees. I believe the natives gather some of their fruit, +but it is almost worthless. By itself it has much less flavor than the +cultivated kinds. Certainly it is not picked and dried at the proper +season, and it gets spoilt in its long transit through the damp woods. + +[An uncertain venture.] Since the abolition of slavery, the crops in +America have been diminishing year by year, and until a short time ago, +when the French laid out several large plantations in Central America, +were of but trifling value. According to F. Engel, a flourishing +cacao plantation required less outlay and trouble, and yields more +profit than any other tropical plant; yet its harvests, which do not +yield anything for the first five or six years, are very uncertain, +owing to the numerous insects which attack the plants. In short, +cacao plantations are only suited to large capitalists, or to very +small cultivators who grow the trees in their own gardens. Moreover, +as we have said, since the abolition of slavery most of the plantations +have fallen into decay, for the freed slaves are entirely wanting +in industry. + +[Use in Europe.] The original chocolate was not generally relished +in Europe. When, however, at a later period, it was mixed with sugar, +it met with more approbation. The exaggerated praise of its admirers +raised a bitter opposition amongst the opponents of the new drink; +and the priests raised conscientious scruples against the use of so +nourishing an article of food on fast days. The quarrel lasted till +the seventeenth century, by which time cacao had become an everyday +necessity in Spain. It was first introduced into Spain in 1520; but +chocolate, on account of the monopoly of the Conquistadores, was for a +long time secretly prepared on the other side of the ocean. In 1580, +however, it was in common use in Spain, though it was so entirely +unknown in England that, in 1579, an English captain burnt a captured +cargo of it as useless. It reached Italy in 1606, and was introduced +into France by Anne of Austria. The first chocolate-house in London +was opened in 1657, and in 1700 Germany at last followed suit. [81] + +[Coffee.] The history of coffee in the Philippines is very similar +to that of cacao. The plant thrives wonderfully, and its berry has +so strongly marked a flavor that the worst Manila coffee commands as +high a price as the best Java. In spite of this, however, the amount +of coffee produced in the Philippines is very insignificant, and, +until lately, scarcely deserved mention. According to the report of an +Englishman in 1828, the coffee-plant was almost unknown forty years +before, and was represented only by a few specimens in the Botanical +Gardens at Manila. It soon, however, increased and multiplied, thanks +to the moderation of a small predatory animal (paradoxurus musanga), +which only nibbled the ripe fruit, and left the hard kernels (the +coffee beans) untouched, as indigestible. The Economical Society +bestirred itself in its turn by offering rewards to encourage the +laying out of large coffee plantations. In 1837 it granted to M. de +la Gironnière a premium of $1,000, for exhibiting a coffee plantation +of sixty thousand plants, which were yielding their second harvest; +and four premiums to others in the following year. But as soon as +the rewards were obtained the plantations were once more allowed to +fall into neglect. From this it is pretty evident that the enterprise, +in the face of the then market prices and the artificially high rates +of freight, did not afford a sufficient profit. + +[Exports.] In 1856 the exports of coffee were not more than seven +thousand piculs; in 1865 they had increased to thirty-seven thousand, +five hundred and eighty-eight; and in 1871, to fifty-three thousand, +three hundred and seventy. This increase, however, affords no criterion +by which to estimate the increase in the number of plantations, +for these make no returns for the first few years after being laid +out. In short, larger exports may be confidently expected. But even +greatly increased exports could not be taken as correct measures +of the colony's resources. Not till European capital calls large +plantations into existence in the most suitable localities will the +Philippines obtain their proper rank in the coffee-producing districts +of the world. + +[Highest grades.] The best coffee comes from the provinces of +Laguna, Batangas and Cavite; the worst from Mindanao. The latter, +in consequence of careless treatment, is very impure, and generally +contains a quantity of bad beans. The coffee beans of Mindanao are +of a yellowish-white color and flabby; those of Laguna are smaller, +but much firmer in texture. + +[French preference.] Manila coffee is very highly esteemed by +connoisseurs, and is very expensive, though it is by no means so +nice looking as that of Ceylon and other more carefully prepared +kinds. It is a remarkable fact that in 1865 France, which imported +only $21,000 worth of hemp from the Philippines, imported more than +$200,000 worth of Manila coffee, a third of the entire coffee produce +of the Islands. [82] Manila coffee is not much prized in London, +and does not fetch much more than good Ceylon ($15 per cwt.). [83] +This, however, is no reproach to the coffee, as every one acquainted +with an Englishman's appreciation of coffee will allow. + +[Prices.] California, an excellent customer, always ready to give +a fair price for a good article, will in time become one of its +principal consumers. [84] In 1868, coffee in Manila itself cost +an average of $16 per picul. [85] In Java, the authorities pay the +natives, who are compelled to cultivate it, about $3.66 per picul. + +[Philippine exports.] Although the amount of coffee exported from the +Philippines is trifling in comparison with the producing powers of the +colony, it compares favorably with the exports from other countries. + +[Javan and Ceylon crops.] In my Sketches of Travel, I compared the +decrease of the coffee produced in Java under the forced system of +cultivation with the increase of that voluntarily grown in Ceylon, +and gave the Javanese produce for 1858 as sixty-seven thousand tons, +and the Cingalese as thirty-five thousand tons. Since that time the +relative decrease and increase have continued; and in 1866 the Dutch +Indies produced only fifty-six thousand tons, and Ceylon thirty-six +thousand tons. [86] + +[Amateur scientists.] During my enforced stay in Daraga the natives +brought me mussels and snails for sale; and several of them wished +to enter my service, as they felt "a particular vocation for Natural +History." At last my kitchen was always full of them. They sallied +forth every day to collect insects, and as a rule were not particularly +fortunate in their search; but this was of no consequence; in fact, +it served to give them a fresh appetite for their meals. Some of the +neighboring Spaniards paid me almost daily visits; and several of +the native and mestizo dignitaries from a distance were good enough +to call upon me, not so much for the purpose of seeing my humble self +as of inspecting my hat, the fame of which had spread over the whole +province. It was constructed in the usual judicious mushroom shape, +covered with nito, [87] and its pinnacle was adorned with a powerful +oil lamp, furnished with a closely fitting lid, like that of a dark +lantern, so that it could be carried in the pocket. This last was +particularly useful when riding about on a dark night. + +[Nito cigar cases.] In the neighboring pueblo cigar-cases were +made out of this nito. They are not of much use as an article of +commerce, and usually are only made to order. To obtain a dozen a +would-be purchaser must apply to as many individuals, who, at the +shortest, will condescend to finish one in a few months. The stalk +of the fern, which is about as thick as a lucifer match, is split +into four strips. The workman then takes a strip in his left hand, +and, with his thumb on the back and his forefinger on the edge, draws +the strips up and down against the knife blade until the soft pithy +parts are cut away, and what remains has become fine enough for the +next process. The cases are made on pointed cylindrical pieces of +wood almost a couple of feet long. A pin is stuck into the center +of the end of the cylinder, and the workman commences by fastening +the strips of fern stalk to it. The size of the case corresponds to +the diameter of the roller, and a small wooden disk is placed in the +bottom of the case to keep it steady while the sides are being plaited. + +[A Filipino theater.] When my ankle began to get better, my +first excursion was to Legaspi, where some Filipinos were giving +a theatrical performance. A Spanish political refugee directed +the entertainment. On each side of the stage, roofed in with palm +leaves, ran covered galleries for the dignitaries of the place; the +uncovered space between these was set apart for the common people. The +performers had chosen a play taken from Persian history. The language +was Spanish, and the dresses were, to say the least, eccentric. The +stage was erected hard by a public street, which itself formed part +of the auditorium, and the noise was so great that I could only catch +a word here and there. The actors stalked on, chattering their parts, +which not one of them understood, and moving their arms up and down; +and when they reached the edge of the stage, they tacked and went back +again like ships sailing against the wind. Their countenances were +entirely devoid of expression, and they spoke like automatons. If I +had understood the words, the contrast between their meaning and the +machine-like movements of the actors would probably have been droll +enough; but, as it was, the noise, the heat, and the smoke were so +great that we soon left the place. + +[An indifferent performance.] Both the theatrical performance and +the whole festival bore the impress of laziness, indifference, and +mindless mimicry. When I compared the frank cheerfulness I had seen +radiating from every countenance at the religious holidays of Europe +with the expressionless and immobile faces of the natives, I found it +difficult to understand how the latter were persuaded to waste so much +time and money upon a matter they seemed so thoroughly indifferent to. + +[Interest in festival.] Travellers have remarked the same want of +gaiety amongst the Indians of America; and some of them ascribe it +to the small development of the nervous system prevalent among these +peoples, to which cause also they attribute their wonderful courage +in bearing pain. But Tylor observes that the Indian's countenance is +so different from ours that it takes us several years to rightly +interpret its expression. There probably is something in both +these explanations. And, although I observed no lively expression of +amusement among my native friends at Legaspi, I noticed that they took +the greatest possible pleasure in decorating their village, and that +the procession which formed part of the festival had extraordinary +charms for them. Every individual was dressed in his very best; and +the honor of carrying a banner inspired those who attained it with the +greatest pride, and raised an amazing amount of envy in the breasts of +the remainder. Visitors poured in from all the surrounding hamlets, and +erected triumphal arches which they had brought with them ready-made +and which bore some complimentary inscription. I am obliged to confess +that some of the holiday-makers were very drunk. The inhabitants of the +Philippines have a great love for strong drink; even the young girls +occasionally get intoxicated. When night came on, the strangers were +hospitably lodged in the dwellings of the village. On such occasions +native hospitality shows itself in a very favorable light. The door +of every house stands open, and even balls take place in some of the +larger hamlets. The Spanish and mestizo cavaliers, however, condescend +to dance only with mestiza partners, and very seldom invite a pretty +native girl to join them. The natives very rarely dance together; but +in Samar I was present on one occasion at a by no means ungraceful +native dance where "improvised" verses were sung. The male dancer +compared his partner with a rose, and she answered he should be +careful in touching it as a rose had thorns. This would have been +thought a charming compliment in the mouth of an Andalusian. + +[Servant subterfuges.] The idle existence we spent in Daraga was so +agreeable to my servants and their numerous friends that they were +anxious I should stay there as long as possible; and they adopted some +very ingenious means to persuade me to do so. Twice, when everything +was prepared for a start the next morning, my shoes were stolen in the +night; and on another occasion they kidnapped my horse. When a native +has a particularly heavy load to carry, or a long journey to make, +he thinks nothing of coolly appropriating the well-fed beast of some +Spaniard; which, when he has done with it, he turns loose without +attempting to feed it, and it wanders about till somebody catches +it and stalls it in the nearest "Tribunal." There it is kept tied up +and hungry until its master claims it and pays its expenses. I had a +dollar to pay when I recovered mine, although it was nearly starved +to death, on the pretence that it had swallowed rice to that value +since it had been caught. + +[Petty robberies.] Small robberies occur very frequently, but they +are committed--as an acquaintance, a man who had spent some time +in the country, informed me one evening when I was telling him my +troubles--only upon the property of new arrivals; old residents, he +said, enjoyed a prescriptive freedom from such little inconveniences. I +fancy some waggish native must have overheard our conversation, for +early the next morning my friend, the old resident, sent to borrow +chocolate, biscuits, and eggs of me, as his larder and his hen-house +had been rifled during the night. + +[Daraga market.] Monday and Friday evenings were the Daraga market +nights, and in fine weather always afforded a pretty sight. The +women, neatly and cleanly clad, sat in long rows and offered their +provisions for sale by the light of hundreds of torches; and, when +the business was over, the slopes of the mountains were studded all +over with flickering little points of brightness proceeding from the +torches carried by the homeward-bound market women. Besides eatables, +many had silks and stuffs woven from the fibers of the pine-apple +and the banana for sale. These goods they carried on their heads; +and I noticed that all the younger women were accompanied by their +sweethearts, who relieved them of their burdens. + + +CHAPTER XI + + +[Change of season.] During the whole time I was confined to the +house at Daraga, the weather was remarkably fine; but unfortunately +the bright days had come to an end by the time I was ready to make a +start, for the north-east monsoon, the sure forerunner of rain in this +part of the Archipelago, sets in in October. In spite, however, of the +weather, I determined to make another attempt to ascend the mountain +at Bulusan. I found I could go by boat to Bacon in the Bay of Albay, +a distance of seven leagues, whence I could ride to Gubat, on the east +coast, three leagues further, and then in a southerly direction along +the shore to Bulusan. An experienced old native, who provided a boat +and crew, had appointed ten o'clock at night as the best time for +my departure. Just as we were about to start, however, we were told +that four piratical craft had been seen in the bay. In a twinkling, +the crew disappeared, and I was left alone in the darkness; and it +took me four hours with the assistance of a Spaniard to find them +again, and make a fresh start. About nine o'clock in the morning we +reached Bacon, whence I rode across a very flat country to San Roque, +where the road leading to Gubat took a sharp turn to the south-east, +and presently became an extremely bad one. After I had passed Gubat, +my way lay along the shore; and I saw several ruined square towers, +made of blocks of coral, and built by the Jesuits as a protection +against the [Moro pirates.] Moros, or "Moors"--a term here applied to +the pirates, because, like the Moors who were formerly in Spain, they +are Mahometans. They come from Mindanao and from the north-west coast +of Borneo. At the time of my visit, this part of the Archipelago was +greatly infested with them; and a few days before my arrival they had +carried off some fishermen, who were busy pulling their fish-stakes, +close to Gubat. A little distance from the shore, and parallel to it, +ran a coral reef, which during the south-west monsoon was here and +there bare at low tide; but, when the north-east wind blew, the waves +of the Pacific Ocean entirely concealed it. Upon this reef the storms +had cast up many remains of marine animals, and a quantity of fungi, +amongst which I noticed some exactly resembling the common sponge of +the Mediterranean. They were just as soft to the touch, of a dark brown +tint, as large as the fist, and of a conical shape. They absorbed water +with great readiness, and might doubtless be made a profitable article +of commerce. Samples of them are to be seen in the Zoological Museum at +Berlin. As I went further on, I found the road excellent; and wooden +bridges, all of which were in good repair, led me across the mouths +of the numerous small rivers. But almost all the arches of the stone +bridges I came to had fallen in, and I had to cross the streams they +were supposed to span in a small boat, and make my horse swim after +me. Just before I reached Bulusan, I had to cross a ravine several +hundred feet deep, composed almost entirely of white pumice stone. + +[Bulusan.] Bulusan is so seldom visited by strangers that the +"tribunal" where I put up was soon full of curiosity-mongers, who came +to stare at me. The women, taking the places of honor, squatted round +me in concentric rows, while the men peered over their shoulders. One +morning when I was taking a shower-bath in a shed made of open bamboo +work, I suddenly noticed several pairs of inquisitive eyes staring +at me through the interstices. The eyes belonged exclusively to the +gentler sex; and their owners examined me with the greatest curiosity, +making remarks upon my appearance to one another, and seeming by no +means inclined to be disturbed. Upon another occasion, when bathing in +the open air in the province of Laguna, I was surrounded by a number of +women, old, middle-aged, and young, who crowded round me while I was +dressing, carefully inspected me, and pointed out with their fingers +every little detail which seemed to them to call for special remark. + +[Storm damage.] I had travelled the last part of the road to Bulusan +in wind and rain; and the storm lasted with little intermission during +the whole night. When I got up in the morning I found that part of the +roof of the tribunal had been carried away, that the slighter houses +in the hamlet were all blown down, and that almost every dwelling in +the place had lost its roof. This pleasant weather lasted during the +three days of my stay. The air was so thick that I found it impossible +to distinguish the volcano, though I was actually standing at its +foot; and, as the weather-wise of the neighborhood could hold out no +promise of a favorable change at that time of the year, I put off my +intended ascent till a better opportunity, and resolved to return. A +former alcalde, Peñeranda, was reported to have succeeded in reaching +the top fifteen years before, after sixty men had spent a couple of +months in building a road to the summit; and the ascent was said to +have taken him two whole days. But an experienced native told me that +in the dry season he thought four men were quite sufficient to open a +narrow path to the plateau, just under the peak, in a couple of days; +but that ladders were required to get on to the actual summit. + +[Arrival of assistance.] The day after my arrival the inspector of +highways and another man walked into the tribunal, both of them wet to +the skin and nearly blown to pieces. My friend the alcalde had sent +them to my assistance; and, as none of us could attempt the ascent, +they returned with me. As we were entering Bacon on our way back, +we heard the report of cannon and the sound of music. Our servants +cried out "Here comes the alcalde," and in a few moments he drove up +in an open carriage, accompanied by an irregular escort of horsemen, +Spaniards and natives, the latter prancing about in silk hats and +shirts fluttering in the wind. The alcalde politely offered me a seat, +and an hour's drive took us into Sorsogon. + +[Albay roads and bridges.] The roads of the province of Albay are good, +but they are by no means kept in good repair: a state of things that +will never be remedied so long as the indolence of the authorities +continues. Most of the stone bridges in the district are in ruins, +and the traveller is obliged to content himself with wading through a +ford, or get himself ferried across upon a raft or in a small canoe, +while his horse swims behind him. The roads were first laid down in the +days of Alcalde Peñaranda, a retired officer of the engineer corps, +whom we have already mentioned, and who deserves considerable praise +for having largely contributed to the welfare of his province, and +for having accomplished so much from such small resources. He took +care that all socage service should be duly rendered, or that money, +which went towards paying for tools and materials, should be paid +in lieu of it. Many abuses existed before his rule; no real services +were performed by anybody who could trace the slightest relationship +to any of the authorities; and, when by chance any redemption money +was paid, it went, often with the connivance of the alcalde of the +period, into the pockets of the gobernadorcillos, instead of into the +provincial treasury. Similar abuses still prevail all over the country, +where they are not prevented by the vigilance of the authorities. The +numerous population, and the prosperity which the province now enjoys, +would make it an easy matter to maintain and complete the existing +highways. The admirable officials of the district are certainly +not wanting in good-will, but their hands are tied. Nowadays the +alcaldes remain only three years in one province (in Peñaranda's +time, they remained six); their time is entirely taken up with +the current official and judicial business; and, just as they are +beginning to become acquainted with the capabilities and requirements +of their district, they are obliged to leave it. [Handicapped +officials.] This shows the government's want of confidence in its +own servants. No alcalde could now possibly undertake what Peñaranda +accomplished. The money paid in lieu of socage service, which ought to +be applied to the wants of the province in which the socage is due, is +forwarded to Manila. If an alcalde proposes some urgent and necessary +improvement, he has to send in so many tedious estimates and reports, +which frequently remain unnoticed, that he soon loses all desire to +attempt any innovation. Estimates for large works, to carry out which +would require a considerable outlay, are invariably returned from +headquarters marked "not urgent." [Funds diverted to Spain.] The fact +is not that the colonial government is wanting in good-will, but that +the Caja de Comunidad (General Treasury) in Manila is almost always +empty, as the Spanish government, in its chronic state of bankruptcy, +borrows the money and is never in a position to return it. + +[Sorsogon earthquake.] In 1840 Sorsogon suffered severely from an +earthquake, which lasted almost continuously for thirty-five days. It +raged with the greatest fury on the 21st of March. The churches, both +of Sorsogon and of Casiguran, as well as the smallest stone houses, +were destroyed; seventeen persons lost their lives, and two hundred +were injured; and the whole neighborhood sank five feet below its +former level. + +[Casiguran.] The next morning I accompanied the alcalde in a falua +(felucca), manned by fourteen rowers, to Casiguran, which lies directly +south of Sorsogon, on the other side of a small bay, of two leagues +in breadth, which it took us an hour and a half to cross. The bay was +as calm as an inland lake. It is almost entirely surrounded by hills, +and its western side, which is open to the sea, is protected by the +Island of Bagalao, which lies in front of it. As soon as we landed, +we were received with salutes of cannon and music, and flags and +shirts streamed in the wind. I declined the friendly invitation of the +alcalde to accompany him any further; as to me, who had no official +business to transact, the journey seemed nothing but a continually +recurring panorama of dinners, lunches, cups of chocolate, music, +and detonations of gunpowder. + +[Quicksilver.] In 1850 quicksilver was discovered on a part of the +coast now covered by the sea. I examined the reported bed of the +deposit, and it appeared to me to consist of a stratum of clay six feet +in depth, superimposed over a layer of volcanic sand and fragments +of pumice stone. An Englishman who was wrecked in this part of the +Archipelago, the same individual I met at the iron works at Angat, had +begun to collect it, and by washing the sand had obtained something +like a couple of ounces. Somebody, however, told the priest of the +district that quicksilver was a poison; and, as he himself told me, +so forcibly did he depict the dangerous nature of the new discovery to +his parishioners that they abandoned the attempt to collect it. Since +then none of them have ever seen a vestige of mercury, unless it might +be from some broken old barometer. Towards evening Mount Bulusan in +the south-east, and Mount Mayon in the north-west, were visible for +a short time. They are both in a straight line with Casiguran. + +[Sea's encroachments.] Every year the sea makes great inroads upon +the coast at Casiguran; as far as I could decide from its appearance +and from the accounts given me, about a yard of the shore is annually +destroyed. The bay of Sorsogon is protected towards the north by a +ridge of hills, which suddenly terminate, however, at its north-eastern +angle; and through this opening the wind sometimes blows with great +fury, and causes considerable havoc in the bay, the more particularly +as its coast is principally formed of clay and sand. + +[Pirate rumors and robberies.] When I reached Legaspi again in the +evening I learnt that the alarm about the pirates which had interrupted +my departure had not been an idle one. Moros they certainly could +not have been, for at that season none of the Mahometan corsairs +could reach that part of the coast; but they were a band of deserters +and vagabonds from the surrounding country, who in this part of the +world find it more agreeable to pursue their freebooting career on +sea than on land. During my absence they had committed many robberies +and carried off several people. [88] + +[Real pirates.] The beginning of November is the season of storms; +when water communication between Albay and Manila entirely ceases, +no vessel daring to put out to sea, even from the south coast. On +the 9th of the month, however, a vessel that had been given up for +lost entered the port, after having incurred great perils and being +obliged to throw overboard the greater part of its cargo. Within twelve +days of its leaving the straits of San Bernardino behind it, a sudden +storm compelled it to anchor amongst the Islands of Balicuatro. One +of the passengers, a newly-arrived Spaniard, put off in a boat with +seven sailors, and made for four small vessels which were riding at +anchor off the coast; taking them for fishermen, whereas they were +pirates. They fired at him as soon as he was some distance from his +ship, and his crew threw themselves into the water; but both he and +they were taken prisoners. The captain of the trading brig, fearing +that his vessel would fall into their clutches, slipped anchor and put +out to sea again, escaping shipwreck with the greatest difficulty. The +pirates, as a rule, do not kill their prisoners, but employ them as +rowers. But Europeans seldom survive their captivity: the tremendous +labor and the scanty food are too much for them. Their clothes always +being stripped off their back, they are exposed naked to all sorts +of weather, and their sole daily support is a handful of rice. + + +CHAPTER XII + + +[Camarines.] No favorable change in the weather was expected in +Albay before the month of January. It stormed and rained all day. I +therefore determined to change my quarters to South Camarines, which, +protected from the monsoon by the high range of hills running along +its north-eastern boundary, enjoyed more decent weather. The two +provinces of Camarines form a long continent, with its principal +frontage of shore facing to the north-east and to the south-west; +which is about ten leagues broad in its middle, and has its shores +indented by many bays. From about the center of its north-eastern +shore there boldly projects the Peninsula of Caramuan, connected with +the mainland of Camarines by the isthmus of Isarog. The north-eastern +portion of the two provinces contains a long range of volcanic hills; +the south-western principally consisted, as far as my investigations +permitted me to discover, of chalk, and coral reefs; in the midst +of the hills extends a winding and fertile valley, which collects +the waters descending from the slopes of the mountain ranges, and +blends them into a navigable river, on the banks of which several +flourishing hamlets have established themselves. This river is called +the Bicol. The streams which give it birth are so abundant, and the +slope of the sides of the valley, which is turned into one gigantic +rice-field, is so gentle that in many places the lazy waters linger +and form small lakes. + +[A chain of volcanoes.] Beginning at the south-eastern extremity, the +volcanoes of Bulusan, Albay, Mazaraga, Iriga, Isarog, and Colasi--the +last on the northern side of San Miguel bay--are situated in a straight +line, extending from the south-east to the north-west. Besides these, +there is the volcano of Buhi, or Malinao, a little to the north-east of +the line. The hamlets in the valley I have mentioned are situated in +a second line parallel to that of the volcanoes. The southern portion +of the province is sparsely inhabited, and but few streams find their +way from its plateau into the central valley. The range of volcanoes +shuts out, as I have said, the north-east winds, and condenses their +moisture in the little lakes scattered on its slopes. The south-west +portion of Camarines, therefore, is dry during the north-east monsoon, +and enjoys its rainy season during the prevalence of the winds that +blow from the south-west. The so-called dry season which, so far as +South Camarines is concerned, begins in November, is interrupted, +however, by frequent showers; but from January to May scarcely a drop +of rain falls. The change of monsoon takes place in May and June; +and its arrival is announced by violent thunderstorms and hurricanes, +which frequently last without cessation for a couple of weeks, and +are accompanied by heavy rains. These last are the beginning of the +wet season proper, which lasts till October. The road passes the +hamlets of Camalig, Guinobatan, Ligao, Oas and Polangui, situated +in a straight line on the banks of the river Quinali, which, after +receiving numerous tributary streams, becomes navigable soon after +passing Polangui. Here I observed a small settlement of huts, which +is called after the river. Each of the hamlets I have mentioned, with +the exception of the last, has a population of about fourteen thousand +souls, although they are situated not more than half a league apart. + +[Priestly assistance.] The convents in this part of the country are +large, imposing buildings, and their incumbents, who were mostly old +men, were most hospitable and kind to me. Every one of them insisted +upon my staying with him, and, after doing all he could for me, passed +me on to his next colleague with the best recommendations. I wished +to hire a boat at Polangui to cross the lake of Batu, but the only +craft I could find were a couple of barotos about eight feet long, +hollowed out of the trunks of trees and laden with rice. To prevent +my meeting with any delay, the padre purchased the cargo of one of +the boats, on the condition of its being immediately unladen; and +this kindness enabled me to continue my journey in the afternoon. + +[The priests' importance.] If a traveller gets on good terms with +the priests he seldom meets with any annoyances. Upon one occasion +I wished to make a little excursion directly after lunch, and at a +quarter past eleven everything was ready for a start; when I happened +to say that it was a pity to have to wait three-quarters of an hour +for the meal. In a minute or two twelve o'clock struck; all work in +the village ceased, and we sat down to table: it was noon. A message +had been sent to the village bell-ringer that the Señor Padre thought +he must be asleep, and that it must be long past twelve as the Señor +Padre was hungry. Il est l'heure que votre Majesté désire. + +[Franciscan friars.] Most of the priests in the eastern provinces of +Luzon and Samar are Franciscan monks (The barefooted friars of the +orthodox and strictest rule of Our Holy Father St. Francis, in the +Philippine Islands, of the Holy and Apostolic Province of St. Gregory +the Great), brought up in seminaries in Spain specially devoted to the +colonial missions. Formerly they were at liberty, after ten years' +residence in the Philippines, to return to their own country; but, +since the abolition of the monasteries in Spain, they can do this +no longer, for they are compelled in the colonies to abandon all +obedience to the rule of their order, and to live as laymen. They are +aware that they must end their days in the colony, and regulate their +lives accordingly. On their first arrival they are generally sent to +some priest in the province to make themselves acquainted with the +language of the country; then they are installed into a small parish, +and afterwards into a more lucrative one, in which they generally +remain till their death. Most of them spring from the very lowest +class of Spaniards. A number of pious trusts and foundations in Spain +enable a very poor man, who cannot afford to send his son to school, +to put him into a religious seminary, where, beyond the duties of +his future avocation, the boy learns nothing. If the monks were of +a higher social grade, as are some of the English missionaries, they +would have less inclination to mix with the common people, and would +fail to exercise over them the influence they wield at present. The +early habits of the Spanish monks, and their narrow knowledge of the +world, peculiarly fit them for an existence among the natives. This +mental equality, or rather, this want of mental disparity, has enabled +them to acquire the influence they undoubtedly possess. + +[Young men developed by responsibility.] When these young men +first come from their seminaries they are narrow-brained, ignorant, +frequently almost devoid of education, and full of conceit, hatred of +heretics, and proselytish ardor. These failings, however, gradually +disappear; the consideration and the comfortable incomes they enjoy +developing their benevolence. The insight into mankind and the +confidence in themselves which distinguish the lower classes of the +Spaniards, and which are so amusingly exemplified in Sancho Panza, +have plenty of occasions to display themselves in the responsible +and influential positions which the priests occupy. The padre is +frequently the only white man in his village, probably the only +European for miles around. He becomes the representative not only +of religion, but of the government; he is the oracle of the natives, +and his decisions in everything that concerns Europe and civilization +are without appeal. His advice is asked in all important emergencies, +and he has no one whom he in his turn can consult. Such a state +of things naturally develops his brain. The same individuals who +in Spain would have followed the plough, in the colonies carry out +great undertakings. Without any technical education, and without any +scientific knowledge, they build churches and bridges, and construct +roads. [Poor architects.] The circumstances therefore are greatly in +favor of the development of priestly ability; but it would probably +be better for the buildings if they were erected by more experienced +men, for the bridges are remarkably prone to fall in, the churches +look like sheep-pens, and the roads soon go to rack and ruin. I +had much intercourse in Camarines and Albay with the priests, and +conceived a great liking for them all. As a rule, they are the most +unpretending of men; and a visit gives them so much pleasure that +they do all in their power to make their guest's stay as agreeable as +possible. Life in a large convent has much resemblance to that of a +lord of the manor in Eastern Europe. Nothing can be more unconstrained, +more unconventional. A visitor lives as independently as in an hotel, +and many of the visitors behave themselves as if it were one. I have +seen a subaltern official arrive, summon the head servant, move into +a room, order his meal, and then inquire casually whether the padre, +who was an utter stranger to him, was at home. + +The priests of the Philippines have often been reproached with gross +immorality. They are said to keep their convents full of bevies of +pretty girls, and to lead somewhat the same sort of life as the Grand +Turk. This may be true of the native padres; but I myself never saw, +in any of the households of the numerous Spanish priests I visited, +anything that could possibly cause the least breath of scandal. Their +servants were exclusively men, though perhaps I may have noticed +here and there an old woman or two. Ribadeneyra says:--"The natives, +who observe how careful the Franciscan monks are of their chastity, +have arrived at the conclusion that they are not really men, and +that, though the devil had often attempted to lead these holy men +astray, using the charms of some pretty Indian girl as a bait, yet, +to the confusion of both damsel and devil, the monks had always +come scathless out of the struggle." Ribadeneyra, however, is a very +unreliable author; and, if his physiological mistakes are as gross as +his geographical ones (he says somewhere that Luzon is another name +for the island of Cebu!), the monks are not perhaps as fireproof as +he supposes. At any rate, his description does not universally apply +nowadays. The younger priests pass their existence like the lords of +the soil of old; the young girls consider it an honor to be allowed to +associate with them; and the padres in their turn find many convenient +opportunities. They have no jealous wives to pry into their secrets, +and their position as confessors and spiritual advisers affords them +plenty of pretexts for being alone with the women. The confessional, +in particular, must be a perilous rock-a-head for most of them. In +an appendix to the "Tagal Grammar" (which, by-the-bye, is not added +to the editions sold for general use) a list of questions is given +for the convenience of young priests not yet conversant with the +Tagal language. These questions are to be asked in the confessional, +and several pages of them relate exclusively to the relations between +the sexes. + +[Superiority over government officials.] As the alcaldes remain only +three years in any one province, they never understand much of its +language; and, being much occupied with their official business, +they have neither the time nor the desire to become acquainted +with the peculiarities of the districts over which they rule. The +priest, on the other hand, resides continually in the midst of his +parishioners, is perfectly acquainted with each of them, and even, +on occasion, protects them against the authorities; his, therefore, +is the real jurisdiction in the district. The position of the priests, +in contradistinction to that of the government officials, is well +expressed by their respective dwellings. The casas reales, generally +small, ugly, and frequently half-ruined habitations, are not suited +to the dignity of the chief authority of the province. The convento, +on the contrary, is almost always a roomy, imposing, and well-arranged +building. In former days, when governorships were sold to adventurers +whose only care was to enrich themselves, the influence of the minister +of religion was even greater than it is now. [89] + +[Former legal status.] The following extract from the General +Orders, given by Le Gentil, will convey a clear idea of their former +position:-- + +"Whereas the tenth chapter of the ordinances, wherein the governor of +Arandia ordained that the alcaldes and the justices should communicate +with the missionary priests only by letter, and that they should never +hold any interview with them except in the presence of a witness, has +been frequently disobeyed, it is now commanded that these disobediences +shall no longer be allowed; and that the alcaldes shall make it their +business to see that the priests and ministers of religion treat the +gobernadorcillos and the subaltern officers of justice with proper +respect, and that the aforesaid priests be not allowed either to beat, +chastise, or ill-treat the latter, or make them wait at table." + +[Alcaldes formerly in trade.] The former alcaldes who, without +experience in official business, without either education or knowledge, +and without either the brains or the moral qualifications for such +responsible and influential posts, purchased their appointments from +the State, or received them in consequence of successful intrigues, +received a nominal salary from the government, and paid it tribute for +the right to carry on trade. Arenas considered this tribute paid by the +alcaldes as a fine imposed upon them for an infringement of the law; +"for several ordinances were in existence, strenuously forbidding +them to dabble in any kind of commerce, until it pleased his Catholic +Majesty to grant them a dispensation." The latter sources of mischief +were, however, abolished by royal decree in September and October, +1844. + +[Their borrowed capital.] The alcaldes were at the same time governors, +magistrates, commanders of the troops, and, in reality, the only +traders in their province. [90] They purchased with the resources +of the obras pias the articles required in the province; and they +were entirely dependent for their capital upon these endowments, +as they almost always arrived in the Philippines without any means +of their own. The natives were forced to sell their produce to the +alcaldes and, besides, to purchase their goods at the prices fixed +by the latter. [91] In this corrupt state of things the priests were +the only protectors of the unfortunate Filipinos; though occasionally +they also threw in their lot with the alcaldes, and shared in the +spoil wrung from their unfortunate flocks. + +[Improvement in present appointees.] Nowadays men with some knowledge +of the law are sent out to the Philippines as alcaldes; the government +pays them a small salary, and they are not allowed to trade. The +authorities also attempt to diminish the influence of the priests by +improving the position of the civil tribunals; a state of things they +will not find easy of accomplishment unless they lengthen the period +of service of the alcaldes, and place them in a pecuniary position +that will put them beyond the temptation of pocketing perquisites. [92] + +In Huc's work on China I find the following passage, relating to the +effects of the frequent official changes in China, from which many +hints may be gathered:-- + +[Similarity with Chinese conditions.] "The magisterial offices +are no longer bestowed upon upright and just individuals and, as a +consequence, this once flourishing and well-governed kingdom is day +by day falling into decay, and is rapidly gliding down the path that +leads to a terrible and, perhaps, speedy dissolution. When we seek +to discover the cause of the general ruin, the universal corruption +which too surely is undermining all classes of Chinese society, we are +convinced that it is to be found in the complete abandonment of the +old system of government effected by the Manchu dynasty. It issued +a decree forbidding any mandarin to hold any post longer than three +years in the same province, and prohibiting any one from possessing +any official appointment in his native province. One does not form +a particularly high idea of the brain which conceived this law; but, +when the Manchu Tartars found that they were the lords of the empire, +they began to be alarmed at their small numbers, which were trifling +in comparison with the countless swarms of the Chinese; and they +dreaded lest the influence which the higher officials would acquire +in their districts might enable them to excite the populace against +their foreign rulers. + +[Unidentified with country.] "The magistrates, being allowed to +remain only a year or two in the same province, lived there like +strangers, without acquainting themselves with the wants of the people +they governed; there was no tie between them. The only care of the +mandarins was to amass as much wealth as possible before they quitted +their posts; and they then began the same game in a fresh locality, +until finally they returned home in possession of a handsome fortune +gradually collected in their different appointments. They were only +birds of passage. What did it matter? The morrow would find them +at the other end of the kingdom, where the cries of their plundered +victims would be unable to reach them. In this manner the governmental +policy rendered the mandarins selfish and indifferent. The basis +of the monarchy is destroyed, for the magistrate is no longer a +paternal ruler residing amongst and mildly swaying his children, but a +marauder, who arrives no man knows whence, and who departs no one knows +whither. The consequence is universal stagnation; no great undertakings +are accomplished; and the works and labors of former dynasties are +allowed to fall into decay. The mandarins say to themselves: 'Why +should we undertake what we can never accomplish? Why should we sow +that others may reap?'... They take no interest in the affairs of the +district; as a rule, they are suddenly transplanted into the midst of +a population whose dialect even they do not understand. [Dependence on +interpreters.] When they arrive in their mandarinates they usually find +interpreters, who, being permanent officieals and interested in the +affairs of the place, know how to make their services indispensable; +and these in reality are the absolute rulers of the district." + +[Importance of interpreters in Philippines.] Interpreters are +especially indispensable in the Philippines, where the alcaldes never +by any chance understand any of the local dialects. In important +matters the native writers have generally to deal with the priest, +who in many cases becomes the virtual administrator of authority. He is +familiar with the characters of the inhabitants and all their affairs, +in the settlement of which his intimate acquaintance with the female +sex stands him in good stead. An eminent official in Madrid told me +in 1867 that the then minister was considering a proposal to abolish +the restriction of office in the colonies to three years. [93] + +[Fear of officials' popularity.] The dread which caused this +restriction, viz., that an official might become too powerful in some +distant province, and that his influence might prove a source of danger +to the mother country, is no longer entertained. Increased traffic +and easier means of communication have destroyed the former isolation +of the more distant provinces. The customs laws, the increasing demand +for colonial produce, and the right conceded to foreigners of settling +in the country, will give a great stimulus to agriculture and commerce, +and largely increase the number of Chinese and European residents. Then +at last, perhaps, the authorities will see the necessity of improving +the social position of their officials by decreasing their number, +by a careful selection of persons, by promoting them according to +their abilities and conduct, and by increasing their salaries, and +allowing them to make a longer stay in one post. The commercial +relations of the Philippines with California and Australia are +likely to become very active, and liberal ideas will be introduced +from those free countries. Then, indeed, the mother country will +have earnestly to consider whether it is advisable to continue its +exploitation of the colony by its monopolies, its withdrawal of gold, +and its constant satisfaction of the unfounded claims of a swarm of +hungry place-hunters. [94] + +[Different English and Dutch policy.] English and Dutch colonial +officials are carefully and expressly educated for their difficult +and responsible positions. They obtain their appointments after +passing a stringent examination at home, and are promoted to the +higher colonial offices only after giving proofs of fitness and +ability. What a different state of things prevails in Spain! When a +Spaniard succeeds in getting an appointment, it is difficult to say +whether it is due to his personal capacity and merit or to a series +of successful political intrigues. [95] + + +CHAPTER XIII + + +[Batu.] In an hour and a half after leaving Polangui we reached Batu, +a village on the north-western shore of the lake of the same name. The +inhabitants, particularly the women, struck me by their ugliness +and want of cleanliness. Although they lived close to the lake, and +drew their daily drinking water from it, they never appeared to use +it for the purpose of washing. The streets of the village also were +dirty and neglected; a circumstance explained, perhaps, by the fact +of the priest being a native. + +[The lake.] Towards the end of the rainy season, in November, the +lake extends far more widely than it does in the dry, and overflows +its shallow banks, especially to the south-west. A great number of +water-plants grow on its borders; amongst which I particularly noticed +a delicate seaweed [96], as fine as horse hair, but intertwined in such +close and endless ramifications that it forms a flooring strong enough +to support the largest waterfowl. I saw hundreds of them hopping about +and eating the shell fish and prawns, which swarmed amidst the meshes +of the net-like seaweed and fell an easy prey to their feathered +enemies. The natives, too, were in the habit of catching immense +quantities of the prawns with nets made for the purpose. Some they +ate fresh; and some they kept till they were putrid, like old cheese, +and then used them as a relish to swallow with their rice. These +small shell-fish are not limited to the Lake of Batu. They are caught +in shoals in both the salt and the fresh waters of the Philippine +and Indian archipelagos, and, when salted and dried by the natives, +form an important article of food, eaten either in soup or as a kind +of potted paste. They are found in every market, and are largely +exported to China. I was unable to shoot any of the waterfowl, for +the tangles of the seaweed prevented my boat from getting near them. + +[A neglected product.] When I revisited the same lake in February, +I found its waters so greatly fallen that they had left a circular +belt of shore extending all around the lake, in most places nearly a +hundred feet broad. The withdrawal of the waters had compressed the +tangled seaweed into a kind of matting, which, bleached by the sun, +and nearly an inch thick, covered the whole of the shore, and hung +suspended over the stunted bushes which, on my first visit, had +been under water. I have never either seen elsewhere, or heard any +one mention, a similar phenomenon. This stuff, which could be had +for nothing, was excellent for rifle-stoppers and for the stuffing +of birds, so I took a great quantity of it with me. This time the +bird-hunting went well, too. + +The native priest of Batu was full of complaints about his +parishioners, who gave him no opportunities of gaining an honest +penny. "I am never asked for a mass, sir; in fact, this is such a +miserable hole that it is shunned by Death itself. In D., where I was +for a long time coadjutor, we had our couple of burials regularly +every day at three dollars a head, and as many masses at a dollar +apiece as we had time to say, besides christenings and weddings, +which always brought a little more grist to the mill. But here +nothing takes place, and I scarcely make anything." This stagnant +state of things had induced him to turn his attention to commerce. The +average native priest, of those I saw, could hardly be called a credit +to his profession. Generally ignorant, often dissipated, and only +superficially acquainted with his duties, the greater part of his +time was given over to gambling, drinking, and other objectionable +amusements. Little care was taken to preserve a properly decorous +behavior, except when officiating in the church, when they read with +an absurd assumption of dignity, without understanding a single +word. The conventos are often full of girls and children, all of +whom help themselves with their fingers out of a common dish. The +worthy padre of Batu introduced a couple of pretty girls to me as +his two poor sisters, whom, in spite of his poverty, he supported; +but the servants about the place openly spoke of these young ladies' +babies as being the children of the priest. + +[The native clergy.] The guiding principle of Spanish colonial +policy--to set one class against another, and to prevent either from +becoming too powerful--seems to be the motive for placing so many +native incumbents in the parsonages of the Archipelago. The prudence of +this proceeding, however, seems doubtful. A Spanish priest has a great +deal of influence in his own immediate circle, and forms, perhaps, +the only enduring link between the colony and the mother-country. The +native priest is far from affording any compensation for the lack +of either of these advantages. He generally is but little respected +by his flock, and certainly does nothing to attach them to Spain; +for he hates and envies his Spanish brethren, who leave him only the +very worst appointments, and treat him with contempt. + +[Nabua.] I rode from Batu to Nabua over a good road in half an +hour. The country was flat, with rice-fields on both sides of the +road; but, while in Batu the rice was only just planted, in Nabua it +already was almost ripe. I was unable to obtain any explanation of +this incongruity, and know not how to account for such a difference +of climate between two hamlets situated in such close proximity to +one another, and separated by no range of hills. The inhabitants of +both were ugly and dirty, and were different in these respects from +the Tagalogs. Nabua, a place of 10,875 inhabitants, is intersected by +several small streams, whose waters, pouring down from the eastern +hills, form a small lake, which empties itself into the river +Bicol. Just after passing the second bridge beyond Nabua the road, +inclining eastwards, wends in a straight line to Iriga, a place lying +to the south-west of the volcano of the same name. + +[Remontados.] I visited a small settlement of pagans situated on the +slope of the volcano. The people of the plains call them indifferently +Igorots, Cimarrons, Remontados, Infieles, or Montesinos. None +of these names, however, with the exception of the two last, are +appropriate ones. The first is derived from the term applied in the +north of the Island to the mixed descendants of Chinese and Filipino +parents. The word Cimarron (French, marrow) is borrowed from the +American slave colonies, where it denoted negroes who escaped from +slavery and lived in a state of freedom; but here it is applied to +natives who prefer a wild existence to the comforts of village life, +which they consider are overbalanced by the servitude and bondage +which accompany them. The term Remontado explains itself, and has +the same signification as Cimarron. As the difference between the +two states--on account of the mildness of the climate, and the +ease with which the wants of the natives are supplied--is far less +than it would be in Europe, these self-constituted exiles are more +frequently to be met with than might be supposed; the cause of their +separation from their fellowmen sometimes being some offence against +the laws, sometimes annoying debts, and sometimes a mere aversion to +the duties and labors of village life. Every Filipino has an innate +inclination to abandon the hamlets and retire into the solitude of +the woods, or live isolated in the midst of his own fields; and it +is only the village prisons and the priests--the salaries of the +latter are proportionate to the number of their parishioners--that +prevent him from gradually turning the pueblos into visitas, [97] +and the latter into ranchos. Until a visit to other ranchos in the +neighborhood corrected my first impression, I took the inhabitants of +the slopes of the Iriga for cross-breeds between the low-landers and +negritos. The color of their skin was not black, but a dark brown, +scarcely any darker than that of Filipinos who have been much exposed +to the sun; and only a few of them had woolly hair. The negritos whom +I saw at Angat and Mariveles knew nothing whatever about agriculture, +lived in the open air, and supported themselves upon the spontaneous +products of nature; but the half-savages of the Iriga dwell in decent +huts, and cultivate several vegetables and a little sugar-cane. No +pure negritos, as far as I could ascertain, are to be met with in +Camarines. A thickly-populated province, only sparsely dotted with +lofty hills, would be ill-suited for the residence of a nomadic +hunting race ignorant of agriculture. + +[Iriga settlements.] The ranchos on the Iriga are very accessible, +and their inhabitants carry on a friendly intercourse with the +lowlanders; indeed, if they didn't, they would have been long +ago exterminated. In spite of these neighborly communications, +however, they have preserved many of their own primitive manners and +customs. The men go about naked with the exception of a cloth about the +loins; and the women are equally unclad, some of them perhaps wearing +an apron reaching from the hip to the knee. [98] In the larger ranchos +the women were decently clad in the usual Filipino fashion. Their +household belongings consisted of a few articles made of bamboo, a +few calabashes of coconut-shell, and an earthen cooking-pot, and bows +and arrows. [Poison arrows.] These latter are made very carefully, +the shaft from reeds, the point from a sharp-cut bamboo, or from a +palm-tree, with one to three sharp points. In pig-hunting iron-pointed +poison arrows are used. [Crucifixes.] Although the Igorots are not +Christians, they decorate their huts with crucifixes, which they use +as talismans. If they were of no virtue, an old man remarked to me, the +Spaniards would not employ them so numerously. [99] The largest rancho +I visited was nominally under the charge of a captain, who, however, +had little real power. At my desire he called to some naked boys idly +squatting about on the trees, who required considerable persuasion +before they obeyed his summons; but a few small presents--brazen +earrings and combs for the women, and cigars for the men--soon put +me on capital terms with them. + +[Mt. Iriga.] After a vain attempt to reach the top of the Iriga volcano +I started for Buhi, a place situated on the southern shore of the lake +of that name. Ten minutes after leaving Iriga I reached a spot where +the ground sounded hollow beneath my horse's feet. A succession of +small hillocks, about fifty feet high, bordered each side of the road; +and towards the north I could perceive the huge crater of the Iriga, +which, in the distance, appeared like a truncated cone. I had the +curiosity to ascend one of the hillocks, which, seen from its summit, +looked like the remains of some former crater, which had probably +been destroyed by an earthquake and split up into these small mounds. + +[Advertising.] When I got to Buhi the friendly priest had it +proclaimed by sound of drum that the newly-arrived strangers wished +to obtain all kinds of animals, whether of earth, of air, or of water; +and that each and all would be paid for in cash. The natives, however, +only brought us moths, centipedes, and other vermin, which, besides +enabling them to have a good stare at the strangers, they hoped to +turn into cash as extraordinary curiosities. + +[A church procession.] The following day I was the spectator of a +gorgeous procession. First came the Spanish flag, then the village +kettle-drums, and a small troop of horsemen in short jackets and +shirts flying in the wind, next a dozen musicians, and finally, as +the principal figure, a man carrying a crimson silk standard. The +latter individual evidently was deeply conscious of his dignified +position, and his countenance eloquently expressed the quantity of +palm wine he had consumed in honor of the occasion. He sat on his +horse dressed out in the most absurd manner in a large cocked hat +trimmed with colored paper instead of gold lace, with a woman's cape +made of paper outside his coat, and with short, tight-fitting yellow +breeches and immense white stockings and shoes. Both his coat and his +breeches were liberally ornamented with paper trimmings. His steed, +led by a couple of cabezas, was appointed with similar trappings. After +marching through all the streets of the village the procession came +to a halt in front of the church. + +[Papal concessions to Spain.] This festival is celebrated every year +in commemoration of the concession made by the Pope to the King of +Spain permitting the latter to appropriate to his own use certain +revenues of the Church. The Spanish Throne consequently enjoys the +right of conferring different indulgences, even for serious crimes, in +the name of the Holy See. This right, which, so to speak, it acquired +wholesale, it sells by retail to its customers (it formerly disposed +of it to the priests) in the estanco, and together with its other +monopolies, such as tobacco, brandy, lottery tickets, stamped paper, +etc., all through the agency of the priests; without the assistance +of whom very little business would be done. The receipts from the +sale of these indulgences have always been very fluctuating. In 1819 +they amounted to $15,930; in 1839 to $36,390; and in 1860 they were +estimated at $58,954. In the year 1844-5 they rose to $292,115. The +cause of this large increase was that indulgences were then rendered +compulsory; so many being alloted to each family, with the assistance +and under the superintendence of the priests and tax-collectors who +received a commission of five and eight per cent on the gross amount +collected. [100] + +[Lake Buhi.] The Lake of Buhi (300 feet above the sea-level) presents +an extremely picturesque appearance, surrounded as it is on all sides +by hills fully a thousand feet high; and its western shore is formed by +what still remains of the Iriga volcano. I was informed by the priests +of the neighboring hamlets that the volcano, until the commencement +of the seventeenth century, had been a closed cone, and that the +lake did not come into existence till half of the mountain fell in, +at the time of its great eruption. This statement I found confirmed +in the pages of the Estado Geografico:--"On the fourth of January, +1641--a memorable day, for on that date all the known volcanoes of +the Archipelago began to erupt at the same hour--a lofty hill in +Camarines, inhabited by heathens, fell in, and a fine lake sprang +into existence upon its site. The then inhabitants of the village of +Buhi migrated to the shores of the new lake, which, on this account, +was henceforward called the Lake of Buhi." + +[1628 Camarines earthquake.] Perrey, in the Mémoires de l'Académie +de Dijon, mentions another outbreak which took place in Camarines in +1628: "In 1628, according to trustworthy reports, fourteen different +shocks of earthquake occurred on the same day in the province of +Camarines. Many buildings were thrown down, and from one large +mountain which the earthquake rent asunder there issued such an +immense quantity of water that the whole neighborhood was flooded, +trees were torn up by the roots, and, in one hour, from the seashore +all plains were covered with water (the direct distance to the shore +is two and one-half leagues). [101] + +[A mistranslation.] It is very strange that the text given in the +footnote does not agree with A. Perrey's translation. The former does +not mention that water came out of the mountains and says just the +contrary, that trees, which were torn up by the roots, took the place +of the sea for one hour on the shore, so that no water could be seen. + +[Unreliable authorities.] The data of the Estado Geografico are apt to +create distrust as the official report on the great earthquake of 1641 +describes in detail the eruptions of three volcanoes, which happened at +the same time (of these two were in the South of the Archipelago and +one in Northern Luzon) while Camarines is not mentioned at all. This +suspicion is further strengthened by the fact that the same author +(Nierembergius) whose remarks on the eruptions of 1628 in Camarines +are quoted, gives in another book of his a detailed report on the +events of 1641 without mentioning this province. If one considers +the indifference of the friars toward such events in Nature, it is +not improbable that the eruptions of 1641 when a mountain fell in in +Northern Luzon and a lake took its place, has been transferred on the +Iriga. To illustrate the indifference it may be mentioned that even +the padres living at the foot of the Albay could not agree upon the +dates of its very last eruptions. + +[Another attempt at mountain climbing.] When I was at Tambong, a small +hamlet on the shore of the lake belonging to the parochial district +of Buhi, I made a second unsuccessful attempt to reach the highest +point of the Iriga. We arrived in the evening at the southern point +of the crater's edge (1,041 meters above the level of the sea by my +barometrical observation), where a deep defile prevented our further +progress. Here the Igorots abandoned me, and the low-landers refused +to bivouac in order to pursue the journey on the following day; so I +was obliged to return. Late in the evening, after passing through a +coco plantation, we reached the foot of the mountain and found shelter +from a tempest with a kind old woman; to whom my servants lied so +shamelessly that, when the rain had abated, we were, in spite of +our failure, conducted with torches to Tambong, where we found the +palm-grove round the little hamlet magically illuminated with bright +bonfires of dry coconut-leaves in honor of the Conquistadores del +Iriga; and where I was obliged to remain for the night, as the people +were too timorous or too lazy to cross the rough water of the lake. + +[Pineapple fiber preparations.] Here I saw them preparing the fiber +of the pine-apple for weaving. The fruit of the plants selected +for this purpose is generally removed early; a process which causes +the leaves to increase considerably both in length and in breadth. A +woman places a board on the ground, and upon it a pine-apple-leaf with +the hollow side upwards. Sitting at one end of the board, she holds +the leaf firmly with her toes, and scrapes its outer surface with a +potsherd; not with the sharp fractured edge but with the blunt side +of the rim; and thus the leaf is reduced to rags. In this manner a +stratum of coarse longitudinal fiber is disclosed, and the operator, +placing her thumb-nail beneath it, lifts it up, and draws it away +in a compact strip; after which she scrapes again until a second +fine layer of fiber is laid bare. Then, turning the leaf round, she +scrapes its back, which now lies upwards, down to the layer of fiber, +which she seizes with her hand and draws at once, to its full length, +away from the back of the leaf. When the fiber has been washed, it is +dried in the sun. It is afterwards combed, with a suitable comb, like +women's hair, sorted into four classes, tied together, and treated like +the fiber of the lupi. In this crude manner are obtained the threads +for the celebrated web nipis de [Piña.] Piña, which is considered by +experts the finest in the world. Two shirts of this kind are in the +Berlin Ethnographical Museum (Nos. 291 and 292). Better woven samples +are in the Gewerbe Museum of Trade and Commerce. In the Philippines, +where the fineness of the work is best understood and appreciated, +richly-embroidered costumes of this description have fetched more +than $1,400 each. [102] + +[Rain prevents another ascent.] At Buhi, which is not sufficiently +sheltered towards the north-east, it rained almost as much as at +Daraga. I had found out from the Igorots that a path could be forced +through the tall canes up to the summit; but the continual rain +prevented me; so I resolved to cross the Malinao, returning along the +coast to my quarters, and then, freshly equipped, descend the river +Bicol as far as Naga. + +[Mountaineers' arrow poison.] Before we parted the Igorots prepared +for me some arrow poison from the bark of two trees. I happened +to see neither the leaves nor the blossoms, but only the bark. A +piece of bark was beaten to pieces, pressed dry, wetted, and again +pressed. This was done with the bare hand, which, however, sustained +no injury. The juice thus extracted looked like pea-soup, and was +warmed in an earthen vessel over a slow fire. During the process it +coagulated at the edges; and the coagulated mass was again dissolved, +by stirring it into the boiling fluid mass. When this had reached +the consistency of syrup, a small quantity was scraped off the inner +surface of a second piece of bark, and its juice squeezed into the +vessel. This juice was a dark brown color. When the mass had attained +the consistency of a thin jelly, it was scraped out of the pot with +a chip and preserved on a leaf sprinkled with ashes. For poisoning +an arrow they use a piece of the size of a hazel-nut, which, after +being warmed, is distributed uniformly over the broad iron point; +and the poisoned arrow serves for repeated use. + +[Sapa river.] At the end of November I left the beautiful lake of +Buhi, and proceeded from its eastern angle for a short distance up +the little river Sapa [103], the alluvial deposits of which form +a considerable feature in the configuration of the lake. Across a +marshy meadow we reached the base of the Malinao or Buhi mountain, +the slippery clay of the lower slope merging higher up into volcanic +sand. [Leeches.] The damp undergrowth swarmed with small leeches; +I never before met with them in such numbers. These little animals, +no stouter when streched out than a linen thread, are extraordinarily +active. They attach themselves firmly to every part of the body, +penetrating even into the nose, the ears, and the eyelids, where, +if, they remain unobserved, they gorge themselves to such excess that +they become as round as balls and look like small cherries. While they +are sucking no pain is felt; but afterwards the spots attacked often +itch the whole day long. [104] [Fig-trees.] In one place the wood +consisted for the most part of fig-trees, with bunches of fruit quite +six feet in length hanging from the stems and the thicker branches; +and between the trees grew ferns, aroids, and orchids. After nearly +six hours' toil we reached the pass (841 meters above the sea level), +and descended the eastern slope. The forest on the eastern side of +the mountain is still more magnificent than that on the west. From a +clearing we obtained a fine view of the sea, the Island of Catanduanes, +and the plain of Tabaco. [Prison as hotel.] At sunset we reached Tibi, +where I quartered myself in the prison. This, a tolerably clean place, +enclosed with strong bamboos, was the most habitable part of a long +shed which supplied the place of the tribunal destroyed in a storm two +years before. At Tibi I had an opportunity of sketching Mount Malinao +(called also Buhi and Takit), which from this side has the appearance +of a large volcano with a distinct crater. From the lake of Buhi it +is not so clearly distinguishable. + +[Igabo hot spring.] Not far from Tibi, exactly north-east of Malinao, +we found a small hot spring called Igabo. In the middle of a plot of +turf encircled by trees was a bare spot of oval form, nearly a hundred +paces long and seventy wide. The whole space was covered with stones, +rounded by attrition, as large as a man's head and larger. Here +and there hot water bubbled out of the ground and discharged into a +little brook; beside it some women were engaged in cooking their food, +which they suspended in nets in the hottest parts of the water. On the +lower surfaces of some of the stones a little sulphur was sublimated; +of alum hardly a trace was perceptible. In a cavity some caolin had +accumulated, and was used as a stain. + +[Naglegbeng silicious springs.] From here I visited the stalactite +springs, not far distant, of Naglegbeng. [105] I had expected to +see a calcareous fountain, but found the most magnificent masses of +silica of infinite variety of form; shallow cones with cylindrical +summits, pyramidal flights of steps, round basins with ribbed margins, +and ponds of boiling water. One spot, denuded of trees, from two +to three hundred paces in breadth and about five hundred in length, +was, with the exception of a few places overgrown with turf, covered +with a crust of silicious dross, which here and there formed large +connected areas, but was generally broken up into flaky plates by the +vertical springs which pierced it. In numerous localities boiling +hot mineral water containing silica was forcing itself out of the +ground, spreading itself over the surface and depositing a crust, +the thickness of which depended on its distance from the center +point. In this manner, in the course of time, a very flat cone is +formed, with a basin of boiling water in the middle. The continuous +deposit of dross contracts the channel, and a less quantity of water +overflows, while that close to the edge of the basin evaporates and +deposits a quantity of fine silicious earth; whence the upper portion +of the cone not only is steeper than its base, but frequently assumes +a more cylindrical form, the external surface of which on account +of the want of uniformity in the overflow, is ribbed in the form +of stalactites. When the channel becomes so much obstructed that +the efflux is less than the evaporation, the water ceases to flow +over the edge, and the mineral dross, during the continual cooling +of the water, is then deposited, with the greatest uniformity, over +the inner area of the basin. When, however, the surface of the water +sinks, this formation ceases at the upper portion of the basin; the +interior wall thickens; and, if the channel be completely stopped up +and all the water evaporated, there remains a bell-shaped basin as +even as if excavated by the hand of man. The water now seeks a fresh +outlet, and bursts forth where it meets with the least obstruction, +without destroying the beautiful cone it has already erected. Many such +examples exist. In the largest cones, however, the vapors generated +acquire such power that, when the outlet is completely stopped up, +they break up the overlying crust in concentrically radiating flakes; +and the water, issuing anew copiously from the center, deposits a fresh +crust, which again, by the process we have just described is broken +up into a superimposed layer of flakes. In this manner are formed +annular layers, which in turn are gradually covered by fresh deposits +from the overflowing water. After the pyramid of layers is complete +and the outlet stopped up, the water sometimes breaks forth on the +slope of the same cone; a second cone is then formed near the first, +on the same base. In the vicinity of the silicious springs are seen +deposits of white, yellow, red, and bluish-grey clays, overlaying +one another in narrow strata-like variegated marl, manifestly the +disintegrated produce of volcanic rocks transported hither by rain +and stained with oxide of iron. These clays perhaps come from the +same rocks from the disintegration of which the silicious earth has +been formed. Similar examples occur in Iceland and in New Zealand; +but the products of the springs of Tibi are more varied, finer, +and more beautiful than those of the Iceland Geysers. + +[A world wonder.] The wonderful conformations of the red cone are +indeed astonishing, and hardly to be paralleled in any other quarter +of the world. [106] + + +CHAPTER XIV + + +[Quinali river.] On my second journey in Camarines, which I undertook +in February, I went by water from Polangui, past Batu, as far as +Naga. The Quinali, which runs into the south-eastern corner of the +lake of Batu, runs out again on the north side as the Bicol River, +and flows in a north-westerly direction as far as the Bay of San +Miguel. It forms the medium of a not inconsiderable trade between Albay +and Camarines, particularly in rice; of which the supply grown in the +former province does not suffice for the population, who consume the +superfluity of Camarines. The rice is conveyed in large boats up the +river as far as Quinali, and thence transported further on in carabao +carts; and the boats return empty. During the dry season of the year, +the breadth of the very tortuous Bicol, at its mouth, is a little over +sixty feet, and increases but very gradually. There is considerable +variety of vegetation upon its banks, and in animal life it is highly +attractive. I was particularly struck with its numerous monkeys and +water-fowl. [Plotus water-fowl.] Of the latter the Plotus variety +was most abundant, but difficult to shoot. They sit motionless on +the trees on the bank, only their thin heads and necks, like those +of tree-snakes, overtopping the leaves. On the approach of the boat +they precipitate themselves hastily into the water; and it is not +until after many minutes that the thin neck is seen rising up again +at some distance from the spot where the bird disappeared. The Plotus +appears to be as rapid on the wing as it is in swimming and diving. + +[Naga.] In Naga, the chief city of South Camarines, I alighted at +the tribunal, from which, however, I was immediately invited by the +principal official of the district--who is famed for his hospitality +far beyond the limits of his province--to his house, where I was loaded +with civilities and favors. This universally beloved gentleman put +everybody under contribution in order to enrich my collections, and did +all in his power to render my stay agreeable and to further my designs. + +[Nueva Caceres.] Naga is the seat of a bishopric and of the provincial +government. In official documents it is called Nueva Caceres, in +honor of the Captain-General, D. Fr. de Sande, a native of Caceres, +who about 1578 founded Naga (the Spanish town) close to the Filipino +village. At the beginning of the seventeenth century it numbered +nearly one hundred Spanish inhabitants; at the present time it hardly +boasts a dozen. Murillo Velarde remarks (xiii, 272), in contrast +to the state of things in America, that of all the towns founded in +the Philippines, with the exception of Manila, only the skeletons, +the names without the substance, have been preserved. The reason is, +as has been frequently shown, that up to the present time plantations, +and consequently proper settlers, have been wanting. Formerly Naga +was the principal town of the whole of that district of Luzon lying +to the east of Tayabas, which, on account of the increased population, +was divided into the three provinces of North and South Camarines and +Albay. The boundaries of these governmental districts, those between +Albay and South Camarines more especially, have been drawn very +arbitrarily; although, the whole of the territory, as is shown by the +map, geographically is very well defined. [Land of the Bicols.] The +country is named Camarines; but it might more suitably be called the +country of the Bicols, for the whole of it is inhabited by one race, +the Bicol-Filipinos, who are distinguished by their speech and many +other peculiarities from their neighbors, the Tagals on the west, +and the Bisayans on the islands to the south and east. + +[The Bicols.] The Bicols are found only in this district and in a +few islands lying immediately in front of it. Of their coming hither +no information is to be obtained from the comprehensive but confused +histories of the Spanish monks. Morga considers them to be natives +of the island; on the other hand, it is asserted by tradition that +the inhabitants of Manila and its vicinity are descended from Malays +who have migrated thither, and from the inhabitants of other islands +and more distant provinces. [107] Their speech is midway between +that of the Tagalogs and the Bisayans, and they themselves appear, +in both their manners and customs, to be a half-breed between these +two races. Physically and mentally they are inferior to the Tagalogs, +and superior to the inhabitants of the eastern Bisayan Islands. [Bicol +language.] Bicol is spoken only in the two Camarines, Albay, Luzon, +the Islands of Masbate, Burias, Ticao, and Catanduanes, and in the +smaller adjoining islands. The inhabitants of the volcanic mountain +Isarog and its immediate neighborhood speak it in the greatest +purity. Thence towards the west the Bicol dialect becomes more and +more like Tagalog, and towards the east like Bisayan, until by degrees, +even before reaching the boundaries of their ethnographical districts, +it merges into these two kindred languages. + +[Rice cultivation.] In South Camarines the sowing of the rice in +beds begins in June or July, always at the commencement of the rainy +season; but in fields artificially watered, earlier, because thus the +fruit ripens at a time when, the store in the country being small, +its price is high. Although the rice fields could very well give two +crops yearly, they are tilled only once. It is planted out in August, +with intervals of a hand's-breadth between each row and each individual +plant; and within four months the rice is ripe. The fields are never +fertilized, and but seldom ploughed; the weeds and the stubble being +generally trodden into the already soaked ground by a dozen carabaos, +and the soil afterwards simply rolled with a cylinder furnished +with sharp points, or loosened with the harrow (sorod). Besides the +agricultural implements named above, there are the Spanish hatchet +(azadon) and a rake of bamboo (kag-kag) in use. The harvest is +effected in a peculiar manner. The rice which is soonest ripe is +cut for ten per cent, that is, the laborer receives for his toil the +tenth bundle for himself. At this time of year rice is very scarce, +want is imminent, and labor reasonable. The more fields, however, +that ripen, the higher become the reapers' wages, rising to twenty, +thirty, forty, even fifty per cent; indeed, the executive sometimes +consider it to be necessary to force the people to do harvest by +corporal punishment and imprisonment, in order to prevent a large +portion of the crop from rotting on the stalk. Nevertheless, in very +fruitful years a part of the harvest is lost. The rice is cut halm by +halm (as in Java) with a peculiarly-formed knife, or, failing such, +with the sharp-edged flap of a mussel [108] found in the ditches of +the rice-fields, which one has only to stoop to pick up. + +[Rice land production.] A quiñon of the best rice land is worth from +sixty to one hundred dollars ($5.50 to $9 per acre). Rice fields on +rising grounds are dearest, as they are not exposed to devastating +floods as are those in the plain, and may be treated so as to insure +the ripening of the fruit at the time when the highest price is to +be obtained. + +[The harvest.] A ganta of rice is sufficient to plant four topones +(1 topon = 1 loan); from which 100 manojos (bundles) are gathered, +each of which yields half a ganta of rice. The old ganta of Naga, +however, being equal to a modern ganta and a half, the produce +may be calculated at 75 cavanes per quiñon, about 9 3/4 bushels per +acre. [109] In books 250 cavanes are usually stated to be the average +produce of a quiñon; but that is an exaggeration. The fertility of +the fields certainly varies very much; but, when it is considered +that the land in the Philippines is never fertilized, but depends, +for the maintenance of its vitality, exclusively upon the overflowing +of the mud which is washed down from the mountains, it may be believed +that the first numbers better express the true average. In Java the +harvest, in many provinces, amounts to only 50 cavanes per quiñon; +in some, indeed, to three times this amount; and in China, with the +most careful culture and abundant manure, to 180 cabanes. [110] +[Sweet potatoes.] Besides rice, they cultivate the camote (sweet +potato, Convolvulus batatas). This flourishes like a weed; indeed, +it is sometimes planted for the purpose of eradicating the weeds from +soil intended for coffee or cacao. It spreads out into a thick carpet, +and is an inexhaustible storehouse to its owner, who, the whole year +through, can supply his wants from his field. Gabi (Caladium), Ubi +(Dioscorea), maize, and other kinds of grain, are likewise cultivated. + +[Cattle and horses.] After the rice harvest the carabaos, horses, and +bullocks, are allowed to graze in the fields. During the rice culture +they remain in the gogonales, cane-fields which arise in places once +cultivated for mountain-rice and afterwards abandoned. (Gogo is the +name of a cane 7 to 8 feet high, Saccharum sp.). Transport then is +almost impossible, because during the rainy season the roads are +impassable, and the cattle find nothing to eat. The native does +not feed his beast, but allows it to die when it cannot support +itself. In the wet season of the year it frequently happens that a +carabao falls down from starvation whilst drawing a cart. A carabao +costs from $7 to $10; a horse $10 to $20; and a cow $6 to $8. Very fine +horses are valued at from $30 to $50, and occasionally as much as $80; +but the native horses are not esteemed in Manila, because they have no +stamina. The bad water, the bad hay, and the great heat of the place at +once point out the reason; otherwise it would be profitable to export +horses in favorable seasons to Manila, where they would fetch twice +their value. According to Morga, there were neither horses nor asses +on the Island until the Spaniards imported them from China and New +Spain. [111] They were at first small and vicious. Horses were imported +also from Japan, "not swift but powerful, with large heads and thick +manes, looking like Friesland horses;" [112] and the breed improved +rapidly. Those born in the country, mostly cross-breeds, drive well. + +[Black cattle.] Black cattle are generally in the hands of a few +individuals; some of whom in Camarines possess from 1000 to 3000 head; +but they are hardly saleable in the province, although they have been +exported profitably for some years past to Manila. The black cattle +of the province are small but make good beef. They are never employed +for labor, and the cows are not milked. The Filipinos, who generally +feed on fish, crabs, mussels, and wild herbs together with rice, +prefer the flesh of the carabao to that of the ox; but they eat it +only on feastdays. + +[Sheep.] The old race of sheep, imported by the Spaniards previous +to this century, still flourishes and is easily propagated. Those +occasionally brought from Shanghai and Australia are considered to be +deficient in endurance, unfruitful, and generally short-lived. Mutton +is procurable every day in Manila; in the interior, however, at +least in the eastern provinces, very rarely; although the rearing +of sheep might there be carried on without difficulty, and in many +places most profitably; the people being too idle to take care of the +young lambs, which they complain are torn to pieces by the dogs when +they wander about free. The sheep appear to have been acclimatized +with difficulty. Morga says that they were brought several times +from New Spain, but did not multiply; so that in his time this kind +of domestic animal did not exist. [Swine.] Pork is eaten by wealthy +Europeans only when the hog has been brought up from the litter at +home. In order to prevent its wandering away, it is usually enclosed +in a wide meshed cylindrical hamper of bamboo, upon filling which +it is slaughtered. The native hogs are too nauseous for food, the +animals maintaining themselves almost entirely on ordure. + +[Guesses at history from language.] Crawfurd observes that the names +of all the domestic animals in the Philippines belong to foreign +languages, Those of the dog, swine, goat, carabao, cat, even of +the fowl and the duck, are Malay or Javanese; while those of the +horse, ox, and sheep, are Spanish. Until these animals were first +imported from Malaysia, the aborigines were less fortunate in this +respect than the Americans, who at least had the alpaca, llamanda, +vicuña. The names likewise of most of the cultivated plants, such as +rice, yams, sugar-cane, cacao and indigo, are said to be Malay, as +well as those for silver, copper, and tin. Of the words relating to +commerce, one-third are Malay; to which belong most of the terms used +in trades, as well as the denominations for weights and measures, for +the calendar--so far as it exists--and for numbers, besides the words +for writing, reading, speaking, and narrative. On the other hand, only +a small number of terms which refer to war are borrowed from the Malay. + +[Ancient Filipino civilization.] Referring to the degree of +civilization which the Philippines possessed previous to their +intercourse with the Malays, Crawfurd concludes from the purely +domestic words that they cultivated no corn, their vegetable food +consisting of batata(?) and banana. They had not a single domestic +animal; they were acquainted with iron and gold, but with no other +metal, and were clothed in stuffs of cotton and alpaca, woven by +themselves. They had invented a peculiar phonetic alphabet; and their +religion consisted in the belief in good and evil spirits and witches, +in circumcision, and in somewhat of divination by the stars. They +therefore were superior to the inhabitants of the South Sea, inasmuch +as they possessed gold, iron, and woven fabrics, and inferior to them +in that they had neither dog, pig, nor fowl. + +[Progress under Spain.] Assuming the truth of the above sketch of +pre-Christian culture, which has been put together only with the help +of defective linguistic sources, and comparing it with the present, we +find, as the result, a considerable progress, for which the Philippines +are indebted to the Spaniards. The influence of social relations has +been already exhibited in the text. The Spaniards have imported the +horse, the bullock, and the sheep; maize, coffee, sugar-cane, cacao, +sesame, tobacco, indigo, many fruits, and probably the batata, which +they met with in Mexico under the name of camotli. [113] From this +circumstance the term camote, universal in the Philippines, appears +to have had its origin, Crawfurd, indeed, erroneously considering +it a native term. According to a communication from Dr. Witmack, the +opinion has lately been conceived that the batata is indigenous not +only to America, but also to the East Indies, as it has two names in +Sanscrit, sharkarakanda and ruktaloo. + +[Slight industrial progress.] With the exception of embroidery, the +natives have made but little progress in industries, in the weaving +and the plaiting of mats; and the handicrafts are entirely carried +on by the Chinese. + +[Rice and abaca exported.] The exports consist of rice and abaca. The +province exports about twice as much rice as it consumes; a large +quantity to Albay, which, less adapted for the cultivation of rice, +produces only abaca; and a fair share to North Camarines, which is +very mountainous, and little fertile. The rice can hardly be shipped +to Manila, as there is no high road to the south side of the province, +near to the principal town, and the transport by water from the north +side, and from the whole of the eastern portion of Luzon, would +immediately enhance the price of the product. [Chinese monopolize +trade.] The imports are confined to the little that is imported by +Chinese traders. The traders are almost all Chinese who alone possess +shops in which clothing materials and woolen stuffs, partly of native +and partly of European manufacture, women's embroidered slippers, +and imitation jewelry, may be obtained. The whole amount of capital +invested in these shops certainly does not exceed $200,000. In the +remaining pueblos of Camarines there are no Chinese merchants; and the +inhabitants are consequently obliged to get their supplies from Naga. + +[Land for everybody.] The land belongs to the State, but is let to +any one who will build upon it. The usufruct passes to the children, +and ceases only when the land remains unemployed for two whole years; +after which it is competent for the executive to dispose of it to +another person. + +[Homes.] Every family possesses its own house; and the young husband +generally builds with the assistance of his friends. In many places +it does not cost more than four or five dollars, as he can, if +necessary, build it himself free of expense, with the simple aid of +the forest-knife (bolo), and of the materials to his hand, bamboo, +Spanish cane, and palm-leaves. These houses, which are always built +on piles on account of the humidity of the soil, often consist of a +single shed, which serves for all the uses of a dwelling, and are the +cause of great laxity and of filthy habits, the whole family sleeping +therein in common, and every passer-by being a welcome guest. A fine +house of boards for the family of a cabeza perhaps costs nearly $100; +and the possessions of such a family in stock, furniture, ornaments, +etc. (of which they are obliged to furnish an annual inventory), +would range in value between $100 and $1,000. Some reach even as +much as $10,000, while the richest family of the whole province is +assessed at $40,000. + +[People not travellers.] In general it may be said that every pueblo +supplies travellers, its own necessaries, and produces little more. To +the indolent native, especially to him of the eastern provinces, +the village in which he was born is the world; and he leaves it only +under the most pressing circumstances. Were it otherwise even, the +strictness of the poll-tax would place great obstacles in the way of +gratifying the desire for travel, generated by that oppressive impost. + +[Meals.] The Filipino eats three times a day--about 7 a.m., 12, and at +7 or 8 in the evening. Those engaged in severe labor consume at each +meal a chupa of rice; the common people, half a chupa at breakfast, one +at mid-day, and half again in the evening, altogether two chupas. Each +family reaps its own supply of rice, and preserves it in barns, or +buys it winnowed at the market; in the latter case purchasing only +the quantity for one day or for the individual meals. The average +retail price is 3 cuartos for 2 chupas (14 chupas for 1 real). To +free it from the husk, the quantity for each single meal is rubbed in +a mortar by the women. This is in accordance with an ancient custom; +but it is also due to the fear lest, otherwise, the store should be +too quickly consumed. The rice, however, is but half cooked; and +it would seem that this occurs in all places where it constitutes +an essential part of the sustenance of the people, as may be seen, +indeed, in Spain and Italy. Salt and much Spanish pepper (capsicum) +are eaten as condiments; the latter, originally imported from America, +growing all round the houses. To the common cooking-salt the natives +prefer a so-called rock-salt, which they obtain by evaporation from +sea-water previously filtered through ashes; and of which one chinanta +(12 lbs. German) costs from one and one-half to two reals. The +consumption of salt is extremely small. + +[Buyo and cigars.] The luxuries of the Filipinos are buyo [114] and +cigars--a cigar costing half a centavo, and a buyo much less. Cigars +are rarely smoked, but are cut up into pieces, and chewed with the +buyo. The women also chew buyo and tobacco, but, as a rule, very +moderately; but they do not also stain their teeth black, like the +Malays; and the young and pretty adorn themselves assiduously with +veils made of the areca-nut tree, whose stiff and closely packed +parallel fibers, when cut crosswise, form excellent tooth-brushes. They +bathe several times daily, and surpass the majority of Europeans in +cleanliness. Every native, above all things, keeps a fighting-cock; +even when he has nothing to eat, he finds money for cock-fighting. + +[Household affairs.] The details of domestic economy may be summarized +as follows: + +For cooking purposes an earthen pot is used, costing between 3 and 10 +cuartos; which, in cooking rice, is closed firmly with a banana-leaf, +so that the steam of a very small quantity of water is sufficient. No +other cooking utensils are used by the poorer classes; but those better +off have a few cast-iron pans and dishes. In the smaller houses, the +hearth consists of a portable earthen pan or a flat chest, frequently +of an old cigar-* chest full of sand, with three stones which serve +as a tripod. In the larger houses it is in the form of a bedstead, +filled with sand or ashes, instead of a mattress. The water in small +households is carried and preserved in thick bamboos. In his bolo +(forest-knife), moreover, every one has an universal instrument, +which he carries in a wooden sheath made by himself, suspended by a +cord of loosely-twisted bast fibers tied round his body. This, and +the rice-mortar (a block of wood with a suitable cavity), together +with pestles and a few baskets, constitute the whole of the household +[Furniture.] furniture of a poor family; sometimes a large snail, +with a rush wick, is also to be found as a lamp. They sleep on a +mat of pandanus (fan-palm, Corypha), when they possess one; if not, +on the splittings of bamboo, with which the house is floored. By the +poor oil for lighting is rarely used; but torches of resin, which +last a couple of days, are bought in the market for half a cuarto. + +[Clothing.] Their clothing requirements I ascertained to be these: +A woman wears a camisa de guinára (a short shift of abacá fiber), +a patadíon (a gown reaching from the hip to the ancles), a cloth, +and a comb. A piece of guinára, costing 1 real, gives two shifts; +the coarsest patadíon costs 3 reals; a cloth, at the highest, 1 real; +and a comb, 2 cuartos; making altogether 4 reals, 12 cuartos. Women of +the better class wear a camisa, costing between 1 and 2 r., a patadíon +6 r., cloth between 2 and 3 r., and a comb 2 cu. The men wear a shirt, +1 r., hose, 3 r., hat (tararura) of Spanish cane, 10 cu., or a salacot +(a large rain-hat, frequently decorated), at least 2 r.--often, +when ornamented with silver, as much as $50. At least three, but more +commonly four, suits are worn out yearly; the women, however, taking +care to weave almost the whole quantity for the family themselves. + +[Wages.] The daily wages of the common laborer are 1 real, without +food; and his hours of work are from 6 to 12, and from 2 to 6 +o'clock. The women, as a rule, perform no field labor, but plant out +the rice and assist in the reaping; their wages on both occasions +being equal to those of the men. Wood and stone-cutters receive 1.5 +r. per day, and calkers 1.75 r. + +[Land leases.] The Tercio is a pretty general contract in the +cultivation of the land. The owner simply lets arable land for the +third part of the crop. Some mestizos possess several pieces of ground; +but they are seldom connected together, as they generally acquire +them as mortgages for sums bearing but a small proportion to their +real value. + +[Family income.] Under the head of earnings I give the income of a +small family. The man earns daily one real, and the woman, if she +weaves coarse stuff, one-fourth real, and her food (thus a piece +of guinára, occupying the labor of two days, costs half a real in +weavers' wages). The most skilful female weaver of the finer stuffs +obtains twelve reals per piece; but it takes a month to weave; and +the month, on account of the numerous holy-days, must be calculated +at the most as equal to twenty-four working days; she consequently +earns one-fourth real per day and her food. For the knitting of the +fibers of the ananas for the piña web (called sugot) she gets only +an eighth of a real and her food. + +[Schools.] In all the pueblos there are schools. The schoolmaster +is paid by the Government, and generally obtains two dollars per +month, without board or lodging. In large pueblos the salary amounts +to three dollars and a half; out of which an assistant must be +paid. The schools are under the supervision of the ecclesiastics +of the place. Reading and writing are taught, the writing copies +being Spanish. The teacher, who has to teach his scholars Spanish +exactly, does not understand it himself, while the Spanish officers, +on the other hand, do not understand the language of the country; +and the priests have no inclination to alter this state of things, +which is very useful to them as a means of influence. Almost the only +Filipinos who speak Spanish are those who have been in the service +of Europeans. A kind of religious horn-book is the first that is +read in the language of the country (Bicol); and after that comes the +Christian Doctrine, the reading-book called Casayayan. On an average, +half of all the children go to school, generally from the seventh +to the tenth year. They learn to read a little; a few even write a +little: but they soon forget it again. Only those who are afterwards +employed as clerks write fluently; and of these most write well. + +Some priests do not permit boys and girls to attend the same school; +and in this case they pay a second teacher, a female, a dollar a +month. The Filipinos learn arithmetic very quickly, generally aiding +themselves by the use of mussels or stones, which they pile in little +heaps before them and then count through. + +[Marriage age.] The women seldom marry before the fourteenth year, +twelve years being the legal limit. In the church-register of Polángui +I found a marriage recorded (January, 1837) between a Filipino and a +Filipina having the ominous name of Hilaria Concepción, who at the +time of the performance of the marriage ceremony was, according to +a note in the margin, only nine years and ten months old. Frequently +people live together unmarried, because they cannot pay the expenses +of the ceremony. [115] + +[Woman's work.] European females, and even mestizas, never seek +husbands amongst the natives. The women generally are well treated, +doing only light work, such as sewing, weaving, embroidery, and +managing the household; while all the heavy labor, with the exception +of the beating of the rice, falls to the men. [116] + +[A patriarch.] Instances of longevity are frequent amongst the +Filipinos, particularly in Camarines. The Diario de Manila, of +March 13th, 1866, mentions an old man in Darága (Albay) whom I knew +well--Juan Jacob, born in 1744, married in 1764, and a widower +in 1845. He held many public posts up to 1840, and had thirteen +children, of whom five are living. He has one hundred and seventy +direct descendants, and now, at one hundred and twenty-two years of +age, is still vigorous, with good eyes and teeth. Extreme unction +was administered to him seven times! + +[Snake bite and rabies remedy.] The first excretion of a new-born +child is carefully preserved, and under the name of triaca (theriacum) +is held to be a highly efficacious and universal remedy for the bites +of snakes and mad dogs. It is applied to the wound externally, and +at the same time is taken internally. + +[Infant mortality.] A large number of children die in the first two +weeks after birth. Statistical data are wanting; but, according to the +opinion of one of the first physicians in Manila, at least one-fourth +die. This mortality must arise from great uncleanliness and impure air; +since in the chambers of the sick, and of women lying-in, the doors +and windows are so closely shut that the healthy become sick from +the stench and heat, and the sick recover with difficulty. Every +aperture of the house is closed up by the husband early during +travail, in order that Patianac may not break in--an evil spirit +who brings mischief to lying-in women, and endeavors to hinder the +birth. The custom has been further maintained even amongst many +who attach no belief to the superstition, but who, from fear of a +draught of air through a hole, have discovered a new explanation for +an old custom--namely, that instances of such practices occur amongst +all people. [The itch.] One very widely-spread malady is the itch, +although, according to the assurance of the physician above referred +to, it may be easily subdued; and, according to the judgment of those +who are not physicians and who employ that term for any eruptions +of the skin, the natives generally live on much too low a diet; the +Bicols even more than the Tagalogs. [117] Under certain conditions, +which the physicians, on being questioned, could not define more +precisely, the natives can support neither hunger nor thirst; of which +fact I have on many occasions been a witness. It is reported of them, +when forced into such a situation as to suffer from unappeased wants, +that they become critically ill; and thus they often die. + +[Imitation mania.] Hence arises the morbid mania for imitation, +which is called in Java Sakit-latar, and here Mali-mali. In Java many +believe that the sickness is only assumed, because those who pretend +to be afflicted with it find it to their advantage to be seen by newly +arrived Europeans. Here, however, I saw one instance where indeed no +simulation could be suspected. My companions availed themselves of +the diseased condition of a poor old woman who met us in the highway, +to practice some rough jokes upon her. The old woman imitated every +motion as if impelled by an irresistible impulse, and expressed at +the same time the most extreme indignation against those who abused +her infirmity. + +[The sickness in Siberia.] In R. Maak's "Journey to the Amour," it is +recorded:--"It is not unusual for the Maniagri to suffer also from a +nervous malady of the most peculiar kind, with which we had already +been made acquainted by the descriptions of several travellers. [118] +This malady is met with, for the most part, amongst the wild people +of Siberia, as well as amongst the Russians settled there. In the +district of the Jakutes, where this affliction very frequently occurs, +those affected by it, both Russians and Jakutes, are known by the +name of 'Emiura;' but here (that is, in that part of Siberia where +the Maniagri live) the same malady is called by the Maniagri 'Olon,' +and by the Argurian Cossacks 'Olgandshi.' The attacks of the malady +which I am now mentioning consist in this, that a man suffering +from it will, if under the influence of terror or consternation, +unconsciously, and often without the smallest sense of shame, imitate +everything that passes before him. Should he be offended, he falls +into a rage, which manifests itself by wild shrieks and raving; +and he precipitates himself at the same time, with a knife or any +other object which may fall to his hand, upon those who have placed +him in this predicament. Amongst the Maniagri, women, especially the +very aged, are the chief sufferers from this malady; and instances, +moreover, of men who were affected by it are likewise known to me. It +is worthy of remark that those women who returned home on account of +this sickness were notwithstanding strong, and in all other respects +enjoyed good health." + +[Running amuck.] Probably it is only an accidental coincidence that +in the Malay countries Sakit-latar and Amok exist together, if not in +the same individual, yet amongst the same people. Instances of Amok +seem to occur also in the Philippines. [119] I find the following +account in the Diario de Manila of February 21, 1866: In Cavite, +on February 18, a soldier rushed into the house of a school-teacher, +and, struggling with him, stabbed him with a dagger, and then killed +the teacher's son with a second stab. Plunging into the street, he +stabbed two young girls of ten and twelve years of age and wounded a +woman in the side, a boy aged nine in the arm, a coachman (mortally) in +the abdomen, and, besides another woman, a sailor and three soldiers; +and arriving at his barracks, where he was stopped by the sentry, +he plunged the dagger into his own breast. + +[Regard for the sleeping.] It is one of the greatest insults to stride +over a sleeping native, or to awaken him suddenly. They rouse one +another, when necessity requires, with the greatest circumspection +and by the slowest degrees. [120] + +[Sense of smell.] The sense of smell is developed amongst the +natives to so great a degree that they are able, by smelling at the +pocket-handkerchiefs, to tell to which persons they belong ("Reisesk.," +p. 39); and lovers at parting exchange pieces of the linen they may +be wearing, and during their separation inhale the odor of the beloved +being, besides smothering the relics with kisses. [121] + + +CHAPTER XV + + +[A scientific priest-poet.] From Naga I visited the parish priest +of Libmanan (Ligmanan), who, possessing poetical talent, and having +the reputation of a natural philosopher, collected and named pretty +beetles and shells, and dedicated the most elegant little sonnets. He +favored me with the following narrative:-- + +[Prehistoric remains] In 1851, during the construction of a road a +little beyond Libmanan, at a place called Poro, a bed of shells was +dug up under four feet of mould, one hundred feet distant from the +river. It consisted of Cyrenae (C. suborbicularis, Busch.), a species +of bivalve belonging to the family of Cyclades which occurs only in +warm waters, and is extraordinarily abundant in the brackish waters of +the Philippines. On the same occasion, at the depth of from one and +a half to three and a half feet, were found numerous remains of the +early inhabitants--skulls, ribs, bones of men and animals, a child's +thighbone inserted in a spiral of brass wire, several stags' horns, +beautifully-formed dishes and vessels, some of them painted, probably +of Chinese origin; striped bracelets, of a soft, gypseous, copper-red +rock, gleaming as if they were varnished; [122] small copper knives, +but no iron utensils; and several broad flat stones bored through +the middle; [123] besides a wedge of petrified wood, embedded in a +cleft branch of a tree. The place, which to this day may be easily +recognized in a hollow, might, by excavation systematically carried on, +yield many more interesting results. What was not immediately useful +was then and there destroyed, and the remainder dispersed. In spite of +every endeavor, I could obtain, through the kindness of Señor Fociños +in Naga, only one small vessel. Similar remains of more primitive +inhabitants have been found at the mouth of the Bigajo, not far from +Libmánan, in a shell-bed of the same kind; and an urn, with a human +skeleton, was found at the mouth of the Perlos, west of Sitio de Poro, +in 1840. At the time when I wrote down these statements of the priest, +neither of us was familiar with the discoveries made within the last +few years relating to the lake dwellings (pile villages); or these +notes might have been more exact, although probably they would not +have been so easy and natural. + +[Ancient Chinese jar.] Mr. W. A. Franks, who had the kindness to +examine the vessel, inclines to the opinion that it is Chinese, and +pronounces it to be of very great antiquity, without however, being +able to determine its age more exactly; and a learned Chinese of the +Burlingame Embassy expressed himself to the same effect. He knew only +of one article, now in the British Museum, which was brought from Japan +by Kaempfer, the color, glazing, and cracks in the glazing, of which +(craqueles) corresponded precisely with mine. According to Kaempfer, +the Japanese found similar vessels in the sea; and they value them +very highly for the purpose of preserving their tea in them. + +Morga writes:-- + +[Used as tea canisters.] "On this island, Luzon, particularly in +the provinces of Manila, Pampánga, Pangasinán, and Ilócos, very +ancient clay vessels of a dark brown color are found by the natives, +of a sorry appearance; some of a middling size, and others smaller; +marked with characters and stamps. They are unable to say either when +or where they obtained them; but they are no longer to be acquired, nor +are they manufactured in the islands. The Japanese prize them highly, +for they have found that the root of a herb which they call Tscha +(tea), and which when drunk hot is considered as a great delicacy +and of medicinal efficacy by the kings and lords in Japan, cannot be +effectively preserved except in these vessels; which are so highly +esteemed all over Japan that they form the most costly articles of +their show-rooms and cabinets. Indeed, so highly do they value them +that they overlay them externally with fine gold embossed with great +skill, and enclose them in cases of brocade; and some of these vessels +are valued at and fetch from two thousand tael to eleven reals. The +natives of these islands purchase them from the Japanese at very high +rates, and take much pains in the search for them on account of their +value, though but few are now found on account of the eagerness with +which they have been sought for." + +[Strict search in Japan.] When Carletti, in 1597, went from the +Philippines to Japan, all the passengers on board were examined +carefully, by order of the governor, and threatened with capital +punishment if they endeavored to conceal "certain earthen vessels +which were wont to be brought from the Philippines and other islands +of that sea," as the king wished to buy them all. + +[Prized by Japanese.] "These vessels were worth as much as five, +six, and even ten thousand scudi each; but they were not permitted +to demand for them more then one Giulio (about a half Paolo)." In +1615 Carletti met with a Franciscan who was sent as ambassador from +Japan to Rome, who assured him that he had seen one hundred and +thirty thousand scudi paid by the King of Japan for such a vessel; +and his companions confirmed the statement. Carletti also alleges, +as the reason for the high price, "that the leaf cia or tea, the +quality of which improves with age, is preserved better in those +vessels than in all others. The Japanese besides know these vessels by +certain characters and stamps. They are of great age and very rare, +and come only from Cambodia, Siam, Cochin-China, the Philippines, +and other neighboring islands. From their external appearance they +would be estimated at three or four quatrini (two dreier).... It is +perfectly true that the king and the princes of that kingdom possess +a very large number of these vessels, and prize them as their most +valuable treasure and above all other rarities .... and that they boast +of their acquisitions, and from motives of vanity strive to outvie one +another in the multitude of pretty vessels which they possess. [124] + +[Found in Borneo.] Many travellers mention vessels found likewise +amongst the Dyaks and the Malays in Borneo, which, from superstitious +motives, were estimated at most exaggerated figures, amounting +sometimes to many thousand dollars. + +[$3,500 for a jar] St. John [125] relates that the Datu of Tamparuli +(Borneo) gave rice to the value of almost $3,500 for a jar, and that he +possessed a second jar of almost fabulous value, which was about two +feet high, and of a dark olive green. The Datu fills both jars with +water, which, after adding plants and flowers to it, he dispenses +[A speaking jar.] to all the sick persons in the country. But the +most famous jar in Borneo is that of the Sultan of Brunei, which +not only possesses all the valuable properties of the other jars +but can also speak. St. John did not see it, as it is always kept +in the women's apartment; but the sultan, a credible man, related to +him that the jar howled dolefully the night before the death of his +first wife, and that it emitted similar tones in the event of impending +misfortunes. St. John is inclined to explain the mysterious phenomenon +by a probably peculiar form of the mouth of the vessel, in passing over +which the air-draught is thrown into resonant verberations, like the +Aeolian harp. The vessel is generally enveloped in gold brocade, and +is uncovered only when it is to be consulted; and hence, of course, +it happens that it speaks only on solemn occasions. St. John states +further that the Bisayans used formerly to bring presents to the +sultan; in recognition of which they received some water from the +sacred jar to sprinkle over their fields and thereby ensure plentiful +harvests. When the sultan was asked whether he would sell his jar for +$100,000, he answered that no offer in the world could tempt him to +part with it. + +[Morga's description.] Morga's description suits neither the vessel +of Libmánan nor the jar of the British Museum, but rather a vessel +brought from Japan a short time ago to our Ethnographical Museum. This +is of brown clay, small but of graceful shape, and composed of many +pieces cemented together; the joints being gilt and forming a kind of +network on the dark ground. How highly ancient pots of a similar kind, +even of native origin, are esteemed in Japan down to the present day, +is shown by the following certificate translated by the interpreter +of the German Consulate:-- + +[A consecrated jar.] "This earthen vessel was found in the porcelain +factory of Tschisuka in the province of Odori, in South Idzumi, +and is an object belonging to the thousand graves.... It was made +by Giogiboosat (a celebrated Buddhist priest), and after it had been +consecrated to heaven was buried by him. According to the traditions +of the people, this place held grave mounds with memorial stones. That +is more than a thousand years ago. ....In the pursuit of my studies, +I remained many years in the temple Sookuk, of that village, and +found the vessel. I carried it to the high priest Shakudjo, who +was much delighted therewith and always bore it about with him as +a treasure. When he died it fell to me, although I could not find +it. Recently, when Honkai was chief priest, I saw it again, and +it was as if I had again met the spirit of Shakudjo. Great was my +commotion, and I clapped my hands with astonishment; and, as often +as I look upon the treasure, I think it is a sign that the spirit of +Shakudjo is returned to life. Therefore I have written the history, +and taken care, of this treasure.--Fudji Kuz Dodjin." + +Baron Alexander von Siebold communicates the following:-- + +[Tea societies.] The value which the Japanese attach to vessels of this +kind rests upon the use which is made of them by the mysterious tea +societies called Cha-no-yu. Respecting the origin of these societies, +which still are almost entirely unknown to Europeans, different legends +exist. They flourished, however, principally during the reign of the +emperor Taikosama, who, in the year 1588, furnished the society of +Cha-no-yu at Kitano near Myako with new laws. In consequence of the +religious and civil wars, the whole of the people had deteriorated +and become ungovernable, having lost all taste for art and knowledge, +and holding only rude force in any esteem; brute strength ruling in the +place of the laws. The observant Taikosama perceived that, in order to +tame these rough natures, he must accustom them to the arts of peace, +and thus secure prosperity to the country, and safety for himself and +his successors. With this in view he recalled the Cha-no-yu society +anew into life, and assembled its masters and those acquainted with +its customs around him. + +[Their object.] The object of the Cha-no-yu is to draw man away +from the influences of the terrestrial forces which surround him, +to plant within him the feeling of complete repose, and to dispose +him to self-contemplation. All the exercises of the Cha-no-yu are +directed to this object. + +[Ceremonies.] Clothed in light white garments, and without weapons, +the members of the Cha-no-yu assemble round the master's house, and, +after resting some time in the ante-room, are conducted into a pavilion +appropriated exclusively to these assemblies. This consists of the +most costly kinds of wood, but is without any ornament which could +possibly be abstracted from it; without color, and without varnish, +dimly lighted by small windows thickly overgrown with plants, and +so low that it is impossible to stand upright. The guests tread the +apartment with solemn measured steps, and, having been received by +him according to the prescribed formulas, arrange themselves in +a half-circle on both sides of him. All distinctions of rank are +abolished. The ancient vessels are now removed with solemn ceremonies +from their wrappings, saluted and admired; and, with the same solemn +and rigidly prescribed formulas, the water is heated on the hearth +appropriated to the purpose, and the tea taken from the vessels and +prepared in cups. The tea consists of the young green leaves of the +tea-shrub rubbed to powder, and is very stimulating in its effect. The +beverage is taken amidst deep silence, while incense is burning on +the elevated pedestal of honor, toko; and, after the thoughts have +thus been collected, conversation begins. It is confined to abstract +subjects; but politics are not always excluded. + +[Reward of valor.] The value of the vessels employed in these +assemblages is very considerable; indeed, they do not fall short of the +value of our most costly paintings; and Taikosama often rewarded his +generals with vessels of the kind, instead of land, as was formerly the +practice. After the last revolution some of the more eminent Daimios +(princes) of the Mikado were rewarded with similar Cha-no-yu vessels, +in acknowledgment of the aid rendered to him in regaining the throne +of his ancestors. The best of them which I have seen were far from +beautiful, simply being old, weather-worn, black or dark-brown jars, +with pretty broad necks, for storing the tea in; tall cups of cracked +Craquelé, either porcelain or earthenware, for drinking the infusion; +and deep, broad cisterns; besides rusty old iron kettles with rings, +for heating the water: but they were enwrapped in the most costly +silken stuffs, and preserved in chests lacquered with gold. Similar +old vessels are preserved amongst the treasures of the Mikado and the +Tycoon, as well as in some of the temples, with all the care due to the +most costly jewels, together with documents relating to their history. + +[Yamtik and Visita Bicul.] From Libmánan I visited the mountain, +Yamtik (Amtik, Hantu), [126] which consists of lime, and contains +many caverns. Six hours westward by water, and one hour S.S.W. on +foot, brought us to the Visita Bícul, surrounded by a thousand little +limestone hills; from which we ascended by a staircase of sinter in the +bed of a brook, to a small cavern tenanted by multitudes of bats, and +great long-armed spiders of the species Phrynus, known to be poisonous. +[127] + +[Ant activities.] A thick branch of a tree lying across the road was +perforated from end to end by a small ant. Many of the natives did +not venture to enter the cave; and those who did enter it were in a +state of great agitation, and were careful first to enjoin upon each +other the respect to be observed by them towards Calapnitan. [128] + +[Superstitions.] One of the principal rules was to name no object in +the cave without adding "Lord Calapnitan's." Thus they did not bluntly +refer to either gun or torch, but devoutly said "Lord C.'s gun," or +"Lord C.'s torch." At a thousand paces from this lies another cave, +"San Vicente," which contains the same insects, but another kind +of bat. Both caves are only of small extent; but in Libmánan a very +large stalactite cave was mentioned to me, the description of which, +notwithstanding the fables mixed up with it, could not but have a true +foundation. Our guides feigned ignorance of it; and it was not till +after two days' wandering about, and after many debates, that they came +to the decision, since I adhered to my purpose, to encounter the risk; +when, to my great astonishment, they conducted me back to Calapnitan's +cave; from which a narrow fissure, hidden by a projection of rock, +led into one of the most gorgeous stalactite caves in the world. Its +floor was everywhere firm and easy to the tread, and mostly dry; and +it ran out into several branches, the entire length of which probably +exceeds a mile; and the whole series of royal chambers and cathedrals, +with the columns, pulpits, and altars which it contained, reflected +no discredit upon its description. No bones or other remains were to +be found in it. My intention to return subsequently with laborers, +for the purpose of systematic excavation, was not carried out. + +[Unsuccessful climb.] I was not lucky enough to reach the summit of the +mountain, upon which was to be found a lake, "from where else should +the water come?" For two days we labored strenuously at different +points to penetrate the thick forest; but the guide, who had assured +the priest in Libmanan that he knew the road, now expressed himself +to the contrary effect. I therefore made the fellow, who had hitherto +been unburdened, now carry a part of the baggage as a punishment; +but he threw it off at the next turning of the road and escaped, +so that we were compelled to return. Stags and wild boars are very +numerous in these forests; and they formed the principal portion of +our meals, at which, at the commencement of our expedition, we had +as many as thirty individuals; who, in the intervals between them, +affected to search for snails and insects for me, but with success +not proportionate to their zeal. + +[A clever pilfering servant.] Upon my departure from Daraga I took +with me a lively little boy, who had a taste for the calling of a +naturalist. In Libmanan he was suddenly lost, and with him, at the +same time, a bundle of keys; and we looked for him in vain. The +fact was, as I afterwards came to learn, that he went straight to +Naga, and, identifying himself by showing the stolen keys, got the +majordomo of my host to deliver to him a white felt hat; with which he +disappeared. I had once seen him, with the hat on his head, standing +before a looking-glass and admiring himself; and he could not resist +the temptation to steal it. + +[Trip with Internal Revenue Collector.] In the beginning of March +I had the pleasure of accompanying the Collector (Administrador) of +Camarines and a Spanish head-man, who were travelling across Daet and +Mauban to the chief town. At five p.m. we left Butungan on the Bicol +River, two leagues below Naga, in a falúa of twelve oars, equipped +with one 6-pounder and two 4-pounders, and reinforced by armed men; +and about six we reached Cabusao, at the mouth of the Bicol, whence we +put to sea about nine. The falua belonged to the collector of taxes, +and had, in conjunction with another under the command of the alcalde, +to protect the north coast of the province against smugglers and +pirates, who at this time of the year are accustomed to frequent +the hiding-places of the bay of San Miguel. Two similar gun-boats +performed the duty on the south coast of the province. + +[Four volcanos.] Both the banks of the Bicol River are flat, and +expand into broad fields of rice; and to the east are simultaneously +visible the beautiful volcanos of Mayon, Iriga, Malina, and Isarog. + +At daybreak we reached the bar of Daet, and, after two hours' +travelling, the similarly named chief city of the province of North +Camarines, where we found an excellent reception at the house of +the alcalde, a polished Navarrese; marred only by the tame monkey, +who should have welcomed the guests of his master, turning his +back towards them with studiously discourteous gestures, and going +towards the door. However, upon the majordomo placing a spirit flask +preserving a small harmless snake on the threshold, the monkey sprang +quickly back and concealed himself, trembling, behind his master. [A +danceless ball.] In the evening there was a ball, but there were no +dancers present. Some Filipinas, who had been invited, sat bashfully +at one end of the apartment and danced with one another when called +upon, without being noticed by the Spaniards, who conversed together +at the other end. + +[Spanish prejudice against bathing.] Our departure hence was delayed +by festivities and sudden showers for about two days, after which the +spirited horses of the alcalde carried us within an hour on a level +road north-west, to Talisáy, and in another hour to Indang, where +a bath and breakfast were ready. Up to this time I had never seen +a bath-room in the house of a Spaniard; whereas with the Northern +Europeans it is never wanting. The Spaniards appear to regard +the bath as a species of medicine, to be used only with caution; +many, even to the present day, look upon it as an institution not +quite Christian. At the time of the Inquisition frequent bathing, +it is known, was a characteristic of the Moors, and certainly was not +wholly free from danger. In Manila, only those who live near the Pasig +are the exceptions to the rule; and there the good or bad practice +prevails of whole families bathing, in the company of their friends, +in the open air. + +[An unfortified fort.] The road ends at Indáng. In two boats we went +down the river till stopped by a bar, and there at a well-supplied +table prepared for us by the kindness of the alcalde we awaited +the horses which were being brought thither along a bad road by our +servants. In the waste of Barre a tower, surrounded by two or three +fishermen's huts and as many camarines, has been erected against the +Moros, who, untempted by the same, seldom go so far westward, for +it consists only of an open hut covered with palm-leaves--a kind of +parasol--supported on stakes as thick as one's arm and fifteen feet +high; and the two cannons belonging to it ought, for security, to be +buried. We followed the sea-shore, which is composed of silicious sand, +and covered with a carpet of creeping shore plants in full bloom. On +the edge of the wood, to the left, were many flowering shrubs and +pandanus with large scarlet-red flowers. After an hour we crossed the +river Longos in a ferry, and soon came to the spur of a crystalline +chain of mountains, which barred our road and extended itself into +the sea as Point Longos. The horses climbed it with difficulty, and +we found the stream on the other side already risen so high that we +rode knee-deep in the water. After sunset we crossed singly, with +great loss of time, in a miserable ferry-boat, over the broad mouth +of the Pulundaga, where a pleasant road through a forest led us, +in fifteen minutes, over the mountain-spur, Malanguit, which again +projected itself right across our path into the sea, to the mouth +of the Paracale. The long bridge here was so rotten that we were +obliged to lead the horses over at wide intervals apart; and on the +further side lies the place called Paracale, from which my companions +continued their journey across Mauban to Manila. + +[Red lead.] Paracale and Mambulao are two localities well known to +all mineralogists, from the red lead ore occurring there. On the +following morning I returned to Longos; which consists of only a few +miserable huts inhabited by gold-washers, who go about almost naked, +probably because they are laboring during the greater part of the +day in the water; but they are also very poor. + +[Gold mining.] The soil is composed of rubbish, decomposed fragments of +crystalline rock, rich in broken pieces of quartz. The workmen make +holes in the ground two and one-half feet long, two and one-half +broad, and to thirty feet deep. At three feet below the surface +the rock is generally found to contain gold, the value increasing +down to eighteen feet of depth, and then again diminishing, though +these proportions are very uncertain, and there is much fruitless +search. The rock is carried out of the holes in baskets, on ladders +of bamboo, and the water in small pails; but in the rainy season the +holes cannot possibly be kept free from water, as they are situated +on the slope of the mountain, and are filled quicker than they can +be emptied. The want of apparatus for discharging water also accounts +for the fact that the pits are not dug deeper. + +[A primitive rock breaker.] The breaking of the auriferous rock is +effected with two stones; of which one serves as anvil, and the other +as hammer. The former, which is slightly hollowed in the center, is +laid flat upon the ground; and the latter, four by eight by eight +inches in dimensions, and therefore of about twenty-five pounds +weight, is made fast with rattan to the top of a slender young tree, +which lies in a sloping position in a fork, and at its opposite end is +firmly fixed in the ground. The workman with a jerk forces the stone +that serves for hammer down upon the auriferous rock, and allows it +to be again carried upwards by the elasticity of the young tree. + +[An arrastre.] The crushing of the broken rock is effected with +an apparatus equally crude. A thick stake rises from the center +of a circular support of rough-hewn stones (which is enclosed in +a circle of exactly similar stones) having an iron pin at its top, +to which a tree, bent horizontally in the middle, and downwards at +the two ends, is fixed. Being set in motion by two carabaos attached +in front, it drags several heavy stones, which are bound firmly to +it with rattans, round the circle, and in this manner crushes the +broken rock, which has been previously mixed with water, to a fine +mud. The same apparatus is employed by the Mexican gold-washers, +under the name of Rastra. [Gold-washing.] The washing-out of the mud +is done by women. They kneel before a small wooden gutter filled with +water up to the brim, and provided with boards, sloping downwards, +in front of the space assigned to each woman; the gutter being cut +out at these places in a corresponding manner, so that a very slender +stream of water flows evenly across its whole breadth downwards over +the board. With her hand the work-woman distributes the auriferous +mud over the board, which, at the lower edge, is provided with a +cross-piece; and, when the light sand is washed away, there remains a +stratum consisting chiefly of iron, flint, and ore, which is taken up +from time to time with a flat piece of board, and laid on one side; +and at the end of the day's work, it is washed out in a flat wooden +dish (batea), and, for the last time, in a coco-shell; when, if they +are lucky, a fine yellow dust shows itself on the edge. [129] During +the last washing the slimy juice of the Gogo is added to the water, +the fine heavy sand remaining suspended therein for a longer time +than in pure water, and thus being more easily separated from the +gold-dust. [130] + +[The clean-up.] It is further to be mentioned that the refuse from +the pits is washed at the upper end of the water-gutter, so that +the sand adhering to the stones intended for pounding may deposit +its gold in the gutter or on the washing-board. In order to melt +the gold thus obtained into a lump, in which form it is bought by +the dealers, it is poured into a small heart-shell (cardium), and, +after being covered with a handful of charcoal, placed in a potsherd; +when a woman blows through a narrow bamboo-cane on the kindled coals, +and in one minute the work is completed. [131] + +The result of many inquiries shows the profit per head to average +not more than one and one-half reals daily. Further to the south-west +from here, on the mountain Malaguit, are seen the ruins of a Spanish +mining company; a heap of rubbish, a pit fifty feet deep, a large +house fallen to ruin, and a stream-work four feet broad and six feet +high. The mountain consists of gneiss much decomposed, with quartz +veins in the stream-work, with the exception of the bands of quartz, +which are of almost pure clay earth with sand. + +[Edible bird's nests.] On the sides hung some edible nests of the +salangane, but not of the same kind as those found in the caverns +on the south coast of Java. These, which are of much less value than +the latter, are only occasionally collected by the Chinese dealers, +who reckon them nominally at five cents each. We also found a few of +the nest-building birds (Collocalia troglodytes, Gray). [132] + +[Abandoned workings.] Around lay so large a number of workings, +and there were so many little abandoned pits, wholly or half fallen +to ruin, and more or less grown over, that it was necessary to step +between with great caution. Some of them were still being worked after +the mode followed at Lóngos, but with a few slight improvements. The +pits are twice as large as those excavated there, and the rock is +lifted, up by a pulley to a cylindrical framework of bamboo, which +is worked by the feet of a lad who sits on a bank higher up. + +[Lead and mica.] Ten minutes north of the village of Malaguit is +a mountain in which lead-glance and red lead have been obtained; +the rock consisting of micaceous gneiss much decomposed. There is +a stream-work over one hundred feet in length. The rock appears to +have been very poor. + +The highly prized red-lead ores have been found on the top of this same +hill, N. 30° W. from the village. The quarry was fallen to ruin and +flooded with rain, so that only a shallow hollow in the ground remained +visible; and after a long search amongst the bushes growing there a few +small fragments were found, on which [Chrome-lead ore.] chrome-lead +ore was still clearly to be recognized. Captain Sabino, the former +governor of Paracale, a well-informed Filipino, who, at the suggestion +of the alcalde, accompanied me, had for some years caused excavations +to be carried on, in order to find specimens for a speculator who had +in view the establishment of a new mining company in Spain; but the +specimens which were found had not been removed, as speculation in +mines in the Philippines had, in the interval, fallen into discredit +on the Exchange of Madrid; and as yet only a little box full of sand, +out of a few small drusy cavities, has been fixed upon and pounded, +to be sold as variegated writing-sand, after being carefully sifted. + +[A pretty fan-palm.] A peculiarly beautiful fan-palm grows on this +hill. Its stem is from thirty to forty feet high, cylindrical and +dark-brown, with white rings a quarter of an inch broad at distances of +four inches, and, at similar intervals, crown-shaped bands of thorns +two inches long. Near the crown-leaf the stem passes into the richest +brown of burnt sienna. + +[Rooming in a powder-magazine.] Notwithstanding a very bad road, a +pleasant ride carried us from Paracale to the sea-shore, and, through +a beautiful wood, to Mambulao, which lies W. by N. I alighted at the +tribunal, and took up my lodgings in the room where the ammunition was +kept, as being the only one that could be locked. For greater security, +the powder was stored in a corner and covered with carabao-hide; +but such were my arrangements that my servant carried about a burning +tallow light, and his assistant a torch in the hand. When I visited +the Filipino priest, I was received in a friendly manner by a young +girl who, when I offered my hand, thanked me with a bow, saying, +"Tengo las sarnas" ("I have the itch"). The malady, which is very +common in the Philippines, appears to have its focus in this locality. + +[Gneiss and crystalline rock.] A quarter of a league N.N.E. we came +upon the ruins of another mining undertaking, the Ancla de Oro. Shaft +and water-cutting had fallen in, and were thickly grown over; and +only a few of the considerable buildings were still standing; and +even those were ready to fall. In a circle some natives were busily +employed, in their manner, collecting grains of gold. The rock is +gneiss, weathered so much that it cannot be recognized; and at a +thousand paces on the other side is a similar one, clearly crystalline. + +[Hornblende and hornblende slate.] Half a league N. by E. from Mambulao +is the lead-mountain of Dinianan. Here also all the works were fallen +in, choked with mud and grown over. Only after a long search were +a few fragments found with traces of red-lead ore. This mountain +consists of hornblende rock; in one place, of hornblende slate, +with very beautiful large crystals. + +[Copper.] A league and a half S. from Mambulao a shallow hollow in +the ground marks the site of an old copper-mine, which must have +been eighty-four feet deep. Copper ores are found in several places +in Luzon; and specimens of solid copper were obtained by me at the +Bay of Luyang, N. of the Enseñada de Patag, in Caramuan. + +[Unsuccessful copper-mining.] Very considerable beds of copper ore +occur in Mancayán, in the district of Lepanto, and in the central +mountain-range of Luzon between Cagayán and Ilocos, which have been +worked by a mining company in Manila since 1850; but the operations +seem to have been most unsuccessful. In 1867 the society expended a +considerable capital in the erection of smelting furnaces and hydraulic +machinery; but until a very recent date, owing to local difficulties, +particularly the want of roads, it has not produced any copper. [133] + +[Paying minus dividends.] In 1869 I heard, in London, that the +undertaking had been given up. According to my latest information, +however, it is certainly in progress; but the management have never, +I believe, secured a dividend. The statement of 1872, in fact, shows +a loss, or, as the Spaniards elegantly say, a dividendo pasivo. + +[Igorot-mining successful.] What Europeans yet appear unable to +accomplish, the wild Igorots, who inhabit that trackless range of +mountains, have carried on successfully for centuries, and to a +proportionally larger extent; and this is the more remarkable as +the metal in that district occurs only in the form of flints, which +even in Europe can be made profitable only by particular management, +and not without expense. + +[Long-established and considerable.] The copper introduced into +commerce by the Igorots from 1840 to 1855, partly in a raw state, +partly manufactured, is estimated at three hundred piculs yearly. The +extent of their excavations, and the large existing masses of slag, +also indicate the activity of their operations for a long period +of time. + +[Copper kettles attributed to Negritos.] In the Ethnographical Museum +at Berlin is a copper kettle made by those wild tribes. Meyer, +who brought it, states that it was made by the Negritos in the +interior of the island, and certainly with hammers of porphyry, as +they have no iron; and that he further found, in the collection of +the Captain General of the Philippines, a large shallow kettle of +three and one-half feet in diameter, which had been bought for only +three dollars; whence it may be inferred that, in the interior of +the island, the copper occurs in large masses, and probably solid; +for how could those rude, uncultivated negritos understand the art +of smelting copper? + +[Copper-working a pre-Spanish art.] The locality of these rich +quarries was still unknown to the Governor, although the copper +implements brought thence had, according to an official statement +of his in 1833, been in use in Manila over two centuries. It is +now known that the copper-smiths are not Negritos but Igorots; and +there can be no question that they practiced this art, and the still +more difficult one of obtaining copper from flint, for a long period +perhaps previous to the arrival of the Spaniards. They may possibly +have learnt them from the Chinese or Japanese. The chief engineer, +Santos [134], and many others with him, are of opinion that this +race is descended from the Chinese or Japanese, from whom he insists +that it acquired not only its features (several travellers mention +the obliquely placed eyes of the Igorots), its idols, and some of +its customs, but also the art of working in copper. At all events, +the fact that a wild people, living isolated in the mountains, +should have made such progress in the science of smelting, is of +so great interest that a description of their procedure by Santos +(essentially only a repetition of an earlier account by Hernandez, +in the Revista Minera, i. 112) will certainly be acceptable. + +[The Igorots' Method.] The present mining district acquired by the +society mentioned, the Sociedad Minero-metalurgica Cantabrofilipina +de Mancayan, was divided amongst the Igorots into larger or smaller +parcels strictly according to the number of the population of the +adjacent villages, whose boundaries were jealously watched; and +the possessions of each separate village were again divided between +certain families; whence it is that those mountain districts exhibit, +at the present day, the appearance of a honeycomb. To obtain the ore, +they made cavities, in which they lighted fires in suitable spots, +for the purpose of breaking the rock into pieces by means of the +elasticity of the heated water contained in the crevices, with the +additional assistance of iron implements. The first breaking-up of +the ore was done in the stream-work itself, and the dead heaps lay +piled up on the ground, so that, in subsequent fires, the flame of +the pieces of wood always reached the summit; and by reason of the +quality of the rock, and the imperfection of the mode of procedure, +very considerable down-falls frequently occurred. The ores were divided +into rich and quartziferous; the former not being again melted, but +the latter being subjected to a powerful and persistent roasting, +during which, after a part of the sulphur, antimony, and arsenic +had been exhaled, a kind of distillation of sulphate of copper and +sulphate of iron took place, which appeared as "stone," or in balls +on the surface of the quartz, and could be easily detached. [135] + +[The Smelter.] The furnace or smelting apparatus consisted of a round +hollow in clayey gound, thirty centimeters in diameter and fifteen +deep; with which was connected a conical funnel of fire-proof stone, +inclined at an angle of 30°, carrying up two bamboo-canes, which were +fitted into the lower ends of two notched pine-stems; in these two +slips, covered all over with dry grass or feathers, moved alternately +up and down, and produced the current required for the smelting. + +[Smelting.] When the Igorots obtained black copper or native copper by +blasting, they prevented loss (by oxidation) by setting up a crucible +of good fire-proof clay in the form of a still; by which means it was +easier for them to pour the metal into the forms which it would acquire +from the same clay. The furnace being arranged, they supplied it +with from eighteen to twenty kilograms of rich or roasted ore, which, +according to the repeated experiments of Hernandez, contained twenty +per cent of copper; and they proceeded quite scientifically, always +exposing the ore at the mouth of the funnel, and consequently to the +air-drafts, and placing the coals at the sides of the furnace, which +consisted of loose stones piled one over another to the height of fifty +centimeters. The fire having been kindled and the blowing apparatus, +already described, in operation, thick clouds of white, yellow, and +orange-yellow smoke were evolved from the partial volatilization of the +sulphur, arsenic, and antimony, for the space of an hour; but as soon +as only sulphurous acid was formed, and the heat by this procedure +had attained its highest degree, the blowing was discontinued and +the product taken out. This consisted of a dross, or, rather, of the +collected pieces of ore themselves, which, on account of the flinty +contents of the stones composing the funnel, were transformed by the +decomposition of the sulphurous metal into a porous mass, and which +could not be converted into dross nor form combinations with silicious +acid, being deficient in the base as well as in the requisite heat; +and also of a very impure "stone," of from four to five kilograms +weight, and containing from fifty to sixty per cent of copper. + +[The copper "stone".] Several of these "stones" were melted down +together for the space of about fifteen hours, in a powerful fire; +and by this means a great portion of the three volatile substances +above named was again evolved; after which they placed them, now heated +red-hot, in an upright position, but so as to be in contact with the +draught; the coals, however, being at the sides of the furnace. After +blowing for an hour or half-an-hour, they thus obtained, as residuum, +a silicate of iron with antimony and traces of arsenic, a "stone" +containing from seventy to seventy-five per cent of copper, which they +took off in very thin strips, at the same time using refrigerating +vessels; and at the bottom of the hollow there remained, according +as the mass was more or less freed from sulphur, a larger or smaller +quantity (always, however, impure) of black copper. + +[Purifying the product.] The purified stones obtained by this second +process were again made red-hot by placing them between rows of wood, +in order that they might not melt into one another before the fire +had freed them from impurities. + +The black copper obtained from the second operation, and the stones +which were re-melted at the same time, were then subjected to a +third process in the same furnace (narrowed by quarry stones and +provided with a crucible); which produced a residuum of silicious +iron and black copper, which was poured out into clay moulds, and +in this shape came into commerce. This black copper contained from +ninety-two to ninety-four per cent of copper, and was tinged by a +carbonaceous compound of the same metal known by its yellow color, +and the oxide on the surface arising from the slow cooling, which will +occur notwithstanding every precaution; and the surface so exposed +to oxidation they beat with green twigs. When the copper, which had +been thus extracted with so much skill and patience by the Igorots, +was to be employed in the manufacture of kettles, pipes, and other +domestic articles, or for ornament, it was submitted to another +process of purification, which differed from the preceding only in +one particular, that the quantity of coals was diminished and the +air-draught increased according as the process of smelting drew near +to its termination, which involved the removal of the carbonaceous +compound by oxidation. Santos found, by repeated experiment, that even +from ores of the mean standard of twenty per cent, only from eight to +ten per cent of black copper was extracted by the third operation; so +that between eight to twelve per cent still remained in the residuum +or porous quartz of the operation. + +[Tagalog women traders.] It was difficult to procure the necessary +means of transport for my baggage on the return journey to Paracale, +the roads being so soaked by the continuous rains that no one would +venture his cattle for the purpose. In Mambulao the influence of +the province on its western border is very perceptible, and Tagalog +is understood almost better than Bicol; the Tagalog element being +introduced amongst the population by women, who with their families +come here, from Lucban and Mauban, in the pursuit of trade. They buy up +gold, and import stuffs and other wares in exchange. The gold acquired +is commonly from fifteen to sixteen carats, and a mark determines +its quality. The dealers pay on the average $11 per ounce; but when, +as is usually the case, it is [Miners uncertain returns.] offered in +smaller quantities than one ounce, only $10. [136] They weigh with +small Roman scales, and have no great reputation for honesty. + +North Camarines is thinly inhabited, the population of the mining +districts having removed after the many undertakings which were +artificially called into existence by the mining mania had been +ruined. The goldwashers are mostly dissolute and involved in debt, +and continually expecting rich findings which but very seldom occur, +and which, when they do occur, are forthwith dissipated;--a fact +which will account for champagne and other articles of luxury being +found in the shops of the very poor villagers. + +Malaguit and Matango, during the dry season, are said to be connected +by an extremely good road; but, when we passed, the two places were +separated by a quagmire into which the horses sank up to their middle. + +[Labo.] In Labo, a little village on the right bank of the river Labo +(which rises in the mountain of the same name), the conditions to +which we have adverted are repeated--vestiges of the works of former +mining companies fast disappearing, and, in the midst, little pits +being worked by the natives. Red lead has not been found here, but +gold has been, and especially "platinum," which some experiments +have proved to be lead-glance. The mountain Labo appears from its +bell-shape and the strata exposed in the river bed to consist of +trachytic hornblende. Half a league W.S.W., after wading through mud +a foot deep, we reached the mountain Dallas where lead-glance and +gold were formerly obtained by a mining company; and to the present +day gold is obtained by a few natives in the usual mode. + +[Wild Cat Mining.] Neither in the latter province, nor in Manila, could +I acquire more precise information respecting the histories of the +numerous unfortunate mining enterprises. Thus much, however, appears +certain, that they were originated only by speculators, and never +properly worked with sufficient means. They therefore, of necessity, +collapsed so soon as the speculators ceased from their operations. + +[Small output.] North Camarines yields no metal with the exception +of the little gold obtained by the natives in so unprofitable a +manner. The king of Spain at first received a fifth, and then a +tenth, of the produce; but the tax subsequently ceased. In Morga's +time the tenth amounted on an average to $10,000 ("which was kept +quite secret"); the profit, consequently, to above $100,000. Gemelli +Carreri was informed by the governor of Manila that gold to the value +of $200,000 was collected annually without the help of either fire or +quicksilver, and that Paracale, in particular, was rich in gold. No +data exist from which I could estimate the actual rate of produce; and +the answers to several inquiries deserve no mention. The produce is, +at all events, very small, as well on account of the incompleteness +of the mode of procedure as of the irregularity of labor, for the +natives work only when they are compelled by necessity. + +[Indang.] I returned down the stream in a boat to Indang, a +comparatively flourishing place, of smaller population but more +considerable trade than Daet; the export consisting principally of +abacá, and the import of rice. + +[Storms.] An old mariner, who had navigated this coast for many +years, informed me that the same winds prevail from Daet as far as +Cape Engaño, the north-east point of Luzon. From October to March +the north-east wind prevails, the monsoon here beginning with north +winds, which are of short duration and soon pass into the north-east; +and in January and February the east winds begin and terminate +the monsoon. The heaviest rains fall from October to January, and +in October typhoons sometimes occur. Beginning from the north or +north-east, they pass to the north-west, where they are most violent; +and then to the north and east, sometimes as far as to the south-east, +and even to the south. In March and April, and sometimes in the +beginning of May, shifting winds blow, which bring in the south-west +monsoon; but the dry season, of which April and May are the driest +months, is uninterrupted by rain. Thunder storms occur from June to +November; most frequently in August. During the south-west monsoon +the sea is very calm; but in the middle of the north-east monsoon all +navigation ceases on the east coast. In the outskirts of Baler rice +is sown in October, and reaped in March and April. Mountain rice is +not cultivated. + + +CHAPTER XVI + + +[On foot to San Miguel bay.] Sending my baggage from Daet to Cabusao +in a schooner, I proceeded on foot, by the road to that place, to +the coast on the west side of the Bay of San Miguel. We crossed the +mouth of the river in a boat, which the horses swam after; but they +were soon abandoned from unfitness. At the mouth of the next river, +Sacavin, the water was so high that the bearers stripped themselves +naked and carried the baggage over on their heads. In simple jacket +and cotton hose, I found this precaution needless; indeed, according +to my experience, it is both refreshing and salutary to wear wet +clothes, during an uniformly high temperature; besides which, one +is thereby spared many a spring over ditches, and many a roundabout +course to avoid puddles, which, being already wet through, we no longer +fear. After having waded over eight other little rivers we were obliged +to leave the shore and pursue the road to Colasi along steep, slippery, +forest paths, the place lying right in the middle of the west side of +the bay. The sea-shore was very beautiful. Instead of a continuous and, +at the ebb, ill-smelling border of mangroves, which is never wanting in +those places where the land extends into the sea, the waves here reach +the foot of the old trees of the forest, many of which were washed +underneath. Amongst the most remarkable was a fringe of stately old +Barringtoni, covered with orchids and other epiphytes--gorgeous trees +when in flower; the red stamens, five inches long, with golden yellow +anthers like tassels, depending from the boughs; and their fruit, of +the size of the fist, is doubly useful to the fisherman, who employs +them, on account of their specific gravity, in floating his nets, and +beats them to pieces to stupefy the fish. The foremost trees stood bent +towards the sea, and have been so deflected probably for a long time, +like many others whose remains still projected out of the water. The +destruction of this coast appears to be very considerable. Amongst +the climbing palms one peculiar kind was very abundant, the stem of +which, as thick as the arm, either dragged itself, leafless, along +the ground, or hung in arches above the branches, carrying a crown +of leaves only at its extremity; while another, from its habitat the +common calamus, had caryota leaves. Wild boars are very plentiful here; +a hunter offered us two at one real each. + +[Colasi.] The direction of the flat coast which extends N.N.W. to +S.S.E. from the point of Daet is here interrupted by the little peak +of Colasi, which projects to the east, and has grown so rapidly +that all old people remember it to have been lower. In the Visita +Colasi, on the northern slope of the mountain, the sea is so rough +that no boat can live in it. The inhabitants carry on fishing; their +fishing-grounds lie, however, on the southern slope of the mountain, +in the sheltered bay of Lalauigan, which we reached after thee hours' +journey over the ridge. + +[By sea to Cabusao.] A four-oared baroto, hired at this place, +as the weather was favorable, was to have conveyed us in two hours +to Cabusao, the port of Naga; but the wind swung round, and a storm +ensued. Thoroughly wet and not without loss, we ran to Barceloneta, +a visita situated at a third of the distance. The intelligent Teniente +of Colasi, whom we met here, also confirmed the fact of the rapid +growth of the little peak. + +[Unreliable excuses.] In opposition to my wish to ascend the mountain, +great obstacles were said to exist when every one would be occupied +in preparations for the Easter festival, which would hardly occur +during the succeeding weeks. As these objections did not convince me, +a more substantial reason was discovered the next morning. Inland +shoes are excellent for the mud, and particularly for horseback; +but for climbing mountains, or rough ground, they would not last a +day; and the one remaining pair of strong European shoes, which I +reserved for particular purposes, had been given away by my servant, +who did not like climbing mountains, on the pretext they were very +much too heavy for me. + +[A shipwrecked family.] The shore from Barceloneta to Cabusao is of +the same character as the Daet-Colasi but running north and south; +the ground, sandy clay, is covered with a thick stratum of broken +bivalves. The road was very difficult, as the high tide forced us to +climb between the trees and thick underwood. On the way we met an +enterprising family who had left Daet with a cargo of coconuts for +Naga, and had been wrecked here; saving only one out of five tinajas +of oil, but recovering all the nuts. [137] They were living in a +small hastily-run-up hut, upon coconuts, rice, fish, and mussels, +in expectation of a favorable wind to return. There were several +varieties of shore-birds; but my gun would not go off, although +my servant, in expectation of a hunt, had cleaned it with especial +care. As he had lost the ramrod whilst cleaning it, the charge was +not withdrawn before we reached Cabusao, when it was discovered that +both barrels were full of sand to above the touchhole. + +[Making palm-sugar.] The coast was still more beautiful than on the +preceding day, particularly in one place where the surge beat against a +wood of fan-palms (Corypha sp.). On the side facing the sea, in groups +or rows stood the trees, bereft of their crowns, or lying overthrown +like columns amid the vast ruins of temples (one of them was three feet +in diameter); and the sight immediately reminded me of Pompeii. I could +not account for the bareness of the trunks, until I discovered a hut in +the midst of the palms, in which two men were endeavoring to anticipate +the waves in their work of destruction by the preparation of sugar +(tunguleh). For this purpose, after stripping off the leaves (this +palm flowering at the top), the upper end of the stem is cut across, +the surface of the incision being inclined about five degrees towards +the horizon, and, near its lower edge, hollowed out to a very shallow +gutter. The juice exudes over the whole surface of the cut, with the +exception of the intersected exterior petioles, and, being collected +in the shallow channel, is conducted by a piece of banana-leaf, +two inches broad, and four inches long, into a bamboo-cane attached +to the trunk. In order to avert the rain from the saccharine issue, +which has a faint, pleasantly aromatic flavor as of barley-sugar, +all the trees which have been tapped are provided with caps formed of +bent and folded palm-leaves. The average daily produce of each tree is +four bamboos, the interior of which is about three inches and a half +in diameter. When removed, they are full to about eighteen inches; +which gives somewhat more than ten quarts daily. + +[The money side.] The produce of each tree of course is very +unequal. Always intermittent, it ceases completely after two months--at +the utmost, three months; but, the proportion of those newly cut to +those cut at an earlier date being the same, the yield of the incisions +is about equal. The juice of thirty-three palms, after evaporation in +an iron pan immediately upon each collection, produces one ganta, or +(there being four such collections) four gantas, daily; the weekly +result being twenty gantas, or two tinajas of sugar, each worth two +dollars and a half on the spot. This statement, derived from the people +themselves, probably shows the proportion somewhat more unfavorable +than it really is; still, according to the opinion of an experienced +mestizo, the difference cannot be very considerable. Assuming the above +figures as correct, however, one of these magnificent trees would give +about one dollar and two-thirds, or, after deducting the laborers' +wages one real per diem, about a thaler and two-thirds; not a large +sum truly; but it is some consolation to know that, even if man did +not interfere, these trees would in process of time fall victims to +the breakers, and that, even if protected against external ravages, +they are doomed to natural extinction after once producing fruit. + +[Neglected roads.] Cabusao lies in the southern angle of San Miguel +Bay which is, almost on every side, surrounded by high mountains, and +affords good anchorage for ships. From here I repaired across Naga to +the south coast. Four leagues from Naga, in the heart of Ragay, on the +southern border of Luzon, is the small but deep harbor of Pasacao; and +two hours by water conducted us to the intermediate Visita Pamplona, +whence the route is pursued by land. The still-existing remnant of the +old road was in a miserable condition, and even at that dry season +of the year scarcely passable; the bridges over the numerous little +ditches were broken down, and in many places, right across the road, +lay large stones and branches of trees which had been brought there +years before to repair the bridges, and, having been unused, have +ever since continued to obstruct the road. + +[A French planter.] In Quitang, between Pamplona and Pasacao, where two +brooks unite themselves into one little river debouching at the latter +place, a young Frenchman had established a hacienda. He was contented +and hopeful, and loudly praised the industry and friendliness of his +people. Probably because they make fewer exactions, foreigners, as a +rule, seem to agree better with the natives than Spaniards. Of these +exactions, the bitterest complaints are rife of the injustice of the +demands made upon the lower classes in the settlement of their wages; +which, if they do not immediately find the necessary hands for every +employment, do not correspond with the enhanced value of the products; +and, according to them, the natives must even be driven from public +employments, to labor in their service. [138] + +[The Filipino as a laborer.] The Filipino certainly is more independent +than the European laborer, because he has fewer wants and, as a native +landowner, is not compelled to earn his bread as the daily laborer of +another; yet, with reference to wages, it may be questioned whether +any colony whatever offers more favorable conditions to the planter +than the Philippines. In Dutch India, where the prevalence of monopoly +almost excludes private industry, free laborers obtain one-third of a +guilder--somewhat more than one real, the usual wages in the wealthy +provinces of the Philippines (in the poorer it amounts to only the +half); and the Javanese are not the equals of the Filipinos, either +in strength, or intelligence, or skill; and the rate of wages in all +the older Slave States is well known. For the cultivation of sugar and +coffee, Mauritius and Ceylon are obliged to import foreign laborers +at great expense, and to pay them highly; and yet they are successful. + +[Pasacao.] From Quitang to Pasacao the road was far worse than +it had heretofore been; and this is the most important road in +the province! Before reaching Pasacao, evident signs are visible, +on the denuded sides of the limestone, of its having been formerly +washed by the sea. Pasacao is picturesquely situated at the end of the +valley which is intersected by the Itulan, and extends from Pamplona, +between wooded mountains of limestone, as far as the sea. The ebb tides +here are extremely irregular. From noon to evening no difference was +observable, and, when the decrease just became visible, the tide rose +again. Immediately to the south, and facing the district, the side of a +mountain, two thousand feet high and above one thousand feet broad, had +two years ago given way to the subterranean action of the waves. The +rock consists of a tough calcareous breccia, full of fragments of +mussels and corals; but, being shoeless, I could not remain on the +sharp rock sufficiently long to make a closer examination. + +[A beautiful coast.] For the same reason, I was obliged to leave +the ascent of the Yamtik, which I had before vainly attempted from +Libmanan, unaccomplished from this point, although I had the advantage +of the company of an obliging French planter in a boat excursion in a +north-westerly direction along the coast. Here our boat floated along +over gardens of coral, swarming with magnificently colored fishes; +and after two hours we reached a cavern in the limestone, Suminabang, +so low that one could stir in it only by creeping; which contained a +few swallows and bats. On the Calebayan river, on the further side of +Point Tanaun, we came upon a solitary shed, our night-quarters. Here +the limestone range is interrupted by an isolated cliff on the left +bank of the little river, consisting of a crystalline rock chiefly +composed of hornblende; which moreover, on the side exposed to the +water, is surrounded completely by limestone. + +[Cattle.] The surrounding mountains must swarm with wild boars. Under +the thatched roof of our hut, which serves as a shelter to occasional +hunters, more than a hundred and fifty lower jaw-bones were set +up as hunting trophies. The place appeared as if created for the +breeding of cattle. Soft with fodder grass, and covered with a few +groups of trees, with slopes intersected by rustling brooks, it rose +up out of the sea, and was encompassed by a steep wall of rock in +the form of a semicircle; and here cattle would find grass, water, +shade, and the protection of an enclosing rampart. While travelling +along the coast, we had remarked a succession of similar localities, +which however, from lack of enterprise and from the dread of pirates, +were not utilized. As soon as our supper was prepared, we carefully +extinguished our fire, that it might not serve as a signal to the +vagabonds of the sea, and kept night watches. + +[A delusive cave.] On the following morning we intended to visit +a cave never before entered; but, to our astonishment, we found +no proper cavern, but only an entrance to a cavern a few feet in +depth. Visible from a distance, it must often have been passed by +the hunters, although, as we were assured by our companions--who +were astonished at the delusion---no one had ventured to enter it +from stress of superstitious terror. + +[Isolation of fertile regions.] The north coast of Camarines, +as I have frequently mentioned, is, during the north-east monsoon, +almost unapproachable; while the south coast, screened by the outlying +islands, remains always accessible. The most fertile districts of the +eastern provinces, which during summer export their produce by the +northern ports, in the winter often remain for months cut off from +all communication with the chief town, because there is no road over +the small strip of land to the south coast. How much has been done by +Nature, and how little by man, to facilitate this intercourse, is very +evident when we reflect upon the condition of the road to Pasacao, +lately described, in connection with the condition of matters in the +east, as shown by the map. + +[River highways.] Two rivers, one coming from the north-west, +and the other from the south-east, and both navigable before they +reach the borders of the province, flow through the middle of it in +a line parallel with the coast (taking no account of its windings), +and, after their junction, send their waters together through the +estuary of Cabusao into the Bay of San Miguel. The whole province, +therefore, is traversed through its center by two navigable rivers, +which, as regards commerce, form only one. + +[Cabusao and Pasacao harbors.] But the harbor of Cabusao, at the bottom +of the Bay of San Miguel, is not accessible during the north-east +monsoon, and has this further disadvantage, that the intercourse of +the whole of the eastern part of Luzon with Manila can be carried +on only by a very circuitous route. On the south coast, on the other +hand, is the harbor of Pasacao, into which a navigable little river, +above a mile in width, discharges itself; so that the distance between +this river highway and the nearest point of the Bicol River amounts to +a little more than a mile. The road connecting the two seas, laid out +by an active alcalde in 1847, and maintained up to 1852, was however, +at the date of my inquiry, in so bad a condition that a picul of abacá +paid two reals freight for this short distance, in the dry season; and +in the wet season it could not be forwarded for double the price. [139] + +[Bad roads raise freights.] Many similar instances may be brought +forward. In 1861 the English vice-consul reported that in Iloilo a +picul of sugar had risen more than 2 r. in price (as much as the cost +of freight from Iloilo to Manila), in consequence of the bad state +of the road between the two places, which are only one league asunder. + +[Social and political reasons for bad roads.] If, without reference to +transport by sea, the islands were not favored in so extraordinary a +manner by innumerable rivers with navigable mouths, a still greater +proportion of their produce would not have been convertible into +money. The people, as well as the local authorities, have no desire +for roads, which they themselves construct by forced labor, and, +when completed, must maintain by the same method; for, when no roads +are made, the laborers are so much more easily employed in private +operations. Even the parish priests, generally, are as little favorable +to the planning of commercial intercourse, by means of which trade, +prosperity, and enlightenment would be introduced into the country, +and their authority undermined. Indeed the Government itself, up +to within a short time since, favored such a state of affairs; for +bad roads belong to the essence of the old Spanish colonial policy, +which was always directed to effect the isolation of the separate +provinces of their great transmarine possessions, and to prevent the +growth of a sense of national interest, in order to facilitate their +government by the distant mother country. + +[Spanish economic backwardness.] Besides, in Spain itself matters +are no better. The means of communication there are so very deficient +that, as an instance, merchandise is sent from Santander to Barcelona, +round the whole Iberian peninsula, in preference to the direct route, +which is partly accomplished by railway. [140] In Estremadura the hogs +were fed with wheat (live animals can be transported without roads), +while at the same time the seaports were importing foreign grain. [141] +The cause of this condition of affairs in that country is to be sought +less in a disordered state of finance, than in the enforcement of +the Government maxim which enjoins the isolation of separate provinces. + + +CHAPTER XVII + + +[Mt. Isaróg.] The Isaróg (pronounced Issaró) rises up in the middle +of Camarines, between San Miguel and Lagonoy bays. While its eastern +slope almost reaches the sea, it is separated on its western side by +a broad strip of inundated land from San Miguel Bay. In circumference +it is at least twelve leagues; and its height 1,966 meters. [142] +Very flat at its base, it swells gradually to 16°, and higher up +to 21° of inclination, and extends itself, in its western aspect, +into a flat dome-shaped summit. But, if viewed from the eastern side, +it has the appearance of a circular chain of mountains rent asunder +by a great ravine. On Coello's map this ravine is erroneously laid +down as extending from south to north; its bearing really is west to +east. Right in front of its opening, and half a league south from Goa, +lies the pretty little village of Rungus, by which it is known. The +exterior sides of the mountain and the fragments of its large crater +are covered with impenetrable wood. Respecting its volcanic eruptions +tradition says nothing. + +[Primitive mountaineers.] The higher slopes form the dwelling-place +of a small race of people, whose independence and the customs +of a primitive age have almost entirely separated them from the +inhabitants of the plain. One or two Cimarrons might occasionally +have been attracted hither, but no such instance is remembered. The +inhabitants of the Isaróg are commonly, though mistakenly, called +Igorots; and I retain the name, since their tribal relationship has not +yet been accurately determined; they themselves maintaining that their +ancestors always dwelt in that locality. There are some who, in the +opinion of the parish priest of Camarines, speak the Bicol language +in the purest manner. Their manners and customs are very similar, +in many respects, to what they were on the arrival of the Spaniards; +and sometimes they also remind one of those prevailing among the Dyaks +of Borneo at the present day. [143] These circumstances give rise to +the conjecture that they may be the last of a race which maintained +its independence against the Spanish rule, and probably also against +the little tyrants who ruled over the plain before the arrival of the +Europeans. When Juan de Salcedo undertook his triumphal march round +North Luzon he found everywhere, at the mouths of the rivers, seafaring +tribes living under many chieftains who, after a short struggle, were +slain by the superior discipline and better arms of the Spaniards, +or submitted voluntarily to the superior race; but he did not succeed +in subduing the independent tribes in the interior; and these are +still to be found in all the larger islands of the Philippine group. + +[Similarity to Indian Archipelago conditions.] Similar conditions are +found in many places in the Indian Archipelago. The Malays, carrying +on trade and piracy, possess the shore, and their language prevails +there; the natives being either subdued by them, or driven into the +forests, the inaccessibility of which ensures to them a miserable +but independent existence. [144] + +[Policy of non-intercourse with heathens.] In order to break down +the opposition of the wild races, the Spanish Government forbade +its subjects, under the penalty of one hundred blows and two years +of forced labor, "to trade or to have any intercourse with the +heathens in the mountains who pay no tribute to his Catholic Majesty, +for although they would exchange their gold, wax, etc., for other +necessaries, they will never change for the better." Probably this +law has for centuries directly contributed to save the barbarians, +notwithstanding their small numbers, from complete extermination; +for free intercourse between a people existing by agriculture, +and another living principally by the chase, speedily leads to the +destruction of the latter. + +[Christian Mountaineers' villages.] The number of the Igorots of the +Isaróg however, been much diminished by deadly battles between the +different ranchos, and by the marauding expeditions which, until +a short time since, were annually undertaken by the commissioners +of taxes, in the interest of the Government monopoly, against +the tobacco fields of the Igorots. Some few have been "pacified" +(converted to Christianity and tribute); in which case they are obliged +to establish themselves in little villages of scattered huts, where +they can be occasionally visited by the priest of the nearest place; +and, in order to render the change easier to them, a smaller tax than +usual is temporarily imposed upon such newly-obtained subjects. + +[Tobacco monopoly wars.] I had deferred the ascent of the mountain +until the beginning of the dry season of the year; but I learned in +Naga that my wish was hardly practicable, because the expeditions +against the ranchos of the mountain, which I have already mentioned, +usually occurred about this time. As the wild people could not +understand why they should not cultivate on their own fields a plant +which had become a necessity to them, they saw in the Cuadrilleros, +not functionaries of a civilized State, but robbers, against whom +they were obliged to defend themselves by force; and appearances +contributed no less to confirm them in their error; for these did +not content themselves with destroying the plantations of tobacco, +but the huts were burnt to the ground, the fruit-trees hewn down, and +the fields laid waste. Such forays never occurred without bloodshed, +and often developed into a little war which was carried on by the +mountaineers for a long time afterwards, even against people who were +entirely uninterested in it--Filipinos and Europeans. The expedition +this year was to take place in the beginning of April; the Igorots +consequently were in a state of great agitation, and had, a few +days previously, murdered a young unarmed Spaniard in the vicinity +of Mabotoboto, at the foot of the mountain, by bringing him to the +ground with a poisoned arrow, and afterwards inflicting twenty-one +wounds with the wood-knife (bolo). + +[A policy of peace.] Fortunately there arrived soon after a countermand +from Manila, where the authorities seemed to have been gradually +convinced of the harmful tendency of such violent measures. It could +not be doubted that this intelligence would quickly spread amongst the +ranchos; and, acting upon the advice of the commandant (upon whom, +very much against his inclination, the conduct of the expedition +had devolved), I lost no time in availing myself of the anticipated +season of quiet. The Government have since adopted the prudent method +of purchasing the tobacco, which is voluntarily cultivated by the +Igorots, at the ordinary rate, and, where practicable, encouraging +them to lay out new fields, instead of destroying those in existence. + +[A populous fertile district.] The next day at noon I left Naga on +horseback. The pueblos of Mogarao, Canaman, Quipayo, and Calabanga, in +this fertile district follow so thickly upon one another that they form +an almost uninterrupted succession of houses and gardens. Calabanga +lies half a league from the sea, between the mouths of two rivers, +the more southerly of which is sixty feet broad and sufficiently deep +for large trading vessels. [145] + +[A bare plain and wretched village.] The road winds round the foot +of the Isaróg first to the north-east and then to the east. Soon the +blooming hedges cease, and are succeeded by a great bare plain, out of +which numerous flat hillocks raise themselves. Both hills and plain, +when we passed, served for pasturage; but from August to January they +are sown with rice; and fields of batata are occasionally seen. After +four hours we arrived at the little village of Maguiring (Manguirin), +the church of which, a tumble-down shed, stood on an equally naked +hillock; and from its neglected condition one might have guessed that +the priest was a native. + +[Many mountain water courses.] This hillock, as well as the others +which I examined, consisted of the débris of the Isaróg, the more +or less decomposed trachytic fragments of hornblende rock, the +spaces between which were filled up with red sand. The number of +streams sent down by the Isaróg, into San Miguel and Lagonoy bays, +is extraordinarily large. On the tract behind Maguiring I counted, in +three-quarters of an hour, five considerable estuaries, that is to say, +above twenty feet broad; and then, as far as Goa, twenty-six more; +altogether, thirty-one: but there are more, as I did not include +the smallest; and yet the distance between Maguiring and Goa, in +a straight line, does not exceed three miles. This accounts for +the enormous quantity of steam with which this mighty condenser is +fed. I have not met with this phenomenon on any other mountain in so +striking a manner. One very remarkable circumstance is the rapidity +with which the brimming rivulets pass in the estuaries, enabling them +to carry the trading vessels, sometimes even ships, into a main stream +(if the expression may be allowed), while the scanty contributions +of their kindred streams on the northern side have scarcely acquired +the importance of a mill-brook. These waters, from their breadth, look +like little rivers, although in reality they consist of only a brook, +up to the foot of the mountain, and of a river's mouth in the plain; +the intermediate part being absent. + +[Comparison with Javan Mountain district.] The country here is +strikingly similar to the remarkable mountain district of the +Gelungúng, described by Junghuhn; [146] yet the origin of these +rising grounds differs in some degree from that of those in Java. The +latter were due to the eruption of 1822, and the great fissure in the +wall of the crater of the Gelungúng, which is turned towards them, +shows unmistakably whence the materials for their formation were +derived; but the great chasm of the Isaróg opens towards the east, +and therefore has no relation to the numberless hillocks on the +north-west of the mountain. Behind Maguiring they run more closely +together, their summits are flatter, and their sides steeper; and they +pass gradually into a gently inclined slope, rent into innumerable +clefts, in the hollows of which as many brooks are actively employed +in converting the angular outlines of the little islands into these +rounded hillocks. The third river behind Maguiring is larger than +those preceding it; on the sixth lies the large Visita of Borobod; +and on the tenth, that of Ragay. The rice fields cease with the hill +country, and on the slope, which is well drained by deep channels, +only wild cane and a few groups of trees grow. Passing by many +villages, whose huts were so isolated and concealed that they might +remain unobserved, we arrived at five o'clock at Tagunton; from which +a road, practicable for carabao carts, and used for the transport of +the abacá grown in the district, leads to Goa; and here, detained by +sickness, I hired a little house, in which I lay for nearly four weeks, +no other remedies offering themselves to me but hunger and repose. + +[Useful friends.] During this time I made the acquaintance of some +newly-converted Igorots, and won their confidence. Without them I would +have had great difficulty in ascending the mountains as well as to +visit their tribe in its farms without any danger. [147] When, at last, +I was able to quit Goa, my friends conducted me, as the first step, +to their settlement; where, having been previously recommended and +expected, I easily obtained the requisite number of attendants to take +into their charge the animals and plants which were collected for me. + +[A heathen Mountaineers' settlement.] On the following morning the +ascent was commenced. Even before we arrived at the first rancho, +I was convinced of the good report that had preceded me. The master +of the house came towards us and conducted us by a narrow path to his +hut, after having removed the foot-lances, which projected obliquely +out of the ground, but were dexterously concealed by brushwood and +leaves. [148] A woman employed in weaving, at my desire, continued +her occupation. The loom was of the simplest kind. The upper end, +the chain-beam, which consists of a piece of bamboo, is fixed to +two bars or posts; and the weaver sits on the ground, and to the two +notched ends of a small lath, which supplies the place of the weaving +beam, hooks on a wooden bow, in the arch of which the back of the +lath is fitted. Placing her feet against two pegs in the ground and +bending her back, she, by means of the bow, stretches the material +out straight. A netting-needle, longer than the breadth of the web, +serves instead of the weaver's shuttle, but it can be pushed through +only by considerable friction, and not always without breaking the +chains of threads. A lath of hard wood (caryota), sharpened like a +knife, represents the trestle, and after every stroke it is placed +upon the edge; after which the comb is pushed forward, a thread put +through, and struck fast, and so forth. The web consisted of threads +of the abacá, which were not spun, but tied one to another. + +[A giant fern hedge.] The huts I visited deserve no special +description. Composed of bamboos and palm-leaves, they are not +essentially different from the dwellings of poor Filipinos; and in +their neighborhood were small fields planted with batata, maize, +caladium and sugar-cane, and enclosed by magnificent polypody +ferns. One of the highest of these, which I caused to be felled for +the purpose, measured in the stem nine meters, thirty centimeters; +in the crown, two meters, twelve centimeters; and its total length +was eleven meters, forty-two centimeters or over thirty-six feet. + +[Simple stringed instruments.] A young lad produced music on a kind of +lute, called baringbau; consisting of the dry shaft of the scitamina +stretched in the form of a bow by means of a thin tendril instead of +gut. Half a coco shell is fixed in the middle of the bow, which, when +playing, is placed against the abdomen, and serves as a sounding board; +and the string when struck with a short wand, gave out a pleasing +humming sound, realizing the idea of the harp and plectrum in their +simplest forms. Others accompanied the musician on Jews' harps of +bamboos, as accurate as those of the Mintras on the Malay Peninsula; +and there was one who played on a guitar, which he had himself made, +but after a European pattern. The hut contained no utensils besides +bows, arrows, and a cooking pot. The possessor of clothes bore them +on his person. I found the women as decently clad as the Filipino +Christian women, and carrying, besides, a forest knife, or bolo. As +a mark of entire confidence, I was taken into the tobacco fields, +which were well concealed and protected by foot-lances; and they +appeared to be carefully looked after. + +[The people and their crops.] The result of my familiarity with +this people, both before and after this opportunity, may be briefly +summed up: They live on the higher slopes of the mountain, never, +indeed, below 1,500 feet; each family by itself. It is difficult to +ascertain how many of them there may now be, as but little intercourse +takes place amongst them. In the part of the mountain belonging to +the district of Goa, their number is estimated at about fifty men +and twenty women, including the children: but twenty years before +the population was more numerous. Their food consists principally +of batata, besides some gabi (caladium). A little maize is likewise +cultivated, as well as some ubi (dioscorea), and a small quantity of +sugar-cane for chewing. + +[Batatas.] In laying out a batata field, a wood is partially cleared, +the earth loosened with the blunt forest knife (bolo), and the bulbs +or layers then planted; and within four months the harvest begins, +and continues uninterruptedly from the time the creeping plant strikes +root and forms tubers. [Rotation of crops.] After two years, however, +the produce is so much diminished that the old plants are pulled up, +in order to make room for new ones obtained from the runners. The +field is then changed, or other fruits cultivated thereon, but with +the addition of manure. A piece of land, fifty brazas long, and thirty +wide, is sufficient for the support of a family. Only occasionally in +the wet season does this resource fail, and then they resort to gabi, +which appears to be as easily cultivated on wet as on dry ground, +but is not so profitable as batata. The young shoots of the gabi are +planted at distances of a vara, and if consumed in a proper manner, +ought not to be cropped till after a year. Each family kills weekly +one or two wild hogs. Stags are rare, although I obtained a fine +pair of horns; and they do not use the skin. Bows and arrows are +used in hunting; some poisoned, and some not. Every rancho keeps +dogs, which live principally on batata, and also cats to protect the +fields against rats; and they also have poultry, [Game cocks a Spanish +innovation.] but no game cocks; which, having been first introduced +into the Philippines by the Spaniards are seldom if ever, wanting in +the huts of the Filipinos; but the inhabitants of the Isaróg are as +yet free from this passion. + +[Trade.] The few products of a more advanced civilization which they +require, they obtain by the sale of the spontaneous productions of +their forests, chiefly wax and resin (pili), [149] apnik, dagiangan +(a kind of copal), and some abacá. Wax, which is much in request +for church solemnities, fetches half a dollar per catty; and resin +averages half a real per chinanta. Business is transacted very +simply. Filipinos, having intercourse with the Igorots, make a +contract with them; and they collect the products and bring them +to a place previously agreed on, where the Filipinos receive them, +after paying down the stipulated price. + +[Religion.] Physicians and magicians, or persons supposed to be +possessed of secret powers, are unknown; every one helps himself. In +order to arrive at a clear understanding of their religious views, +a longer intercourse would be necessary. But they certainly believe +in one God, or, at least, say so, when they are closely questioned +by Christians; and have also loosely acquired several of the external +practices of Catholicism, which they employ as spells. + +[Respect for women and aged.] Hunting and hard labor constitute the +employment of man in general, as well as in the Philippines. The +practice of employing women as beasts of burden--which, although +it exists among many of the peoples of Europe, for example, the +Basques, Wallachians, and Portuguese, is almost peculiar to barbarous +nations,--seems to have been lost in the Philippines as far back +as the time of its discovery by the Spaniards; and even among the +wild people of the Isaróg, the women engage only in light labor, +and are well treated. Every family supports its aged and those unfit +for labor. [Medicine.] Headaches and fevers were stated to me as the +prevalent maladies; for which burnt rice, pounded and mixed to a pap +with water, is taken as a remedy; and in case of severe headache they +make an incision in the forehead of the sufferer. Their prevalence is +explained by the habit of neutralizing the ill effects of drinking +water in excess, when they are heated, by the consumption of warm +water in large doses; and the rule holds with regard to coco-water; +the remedy for immoderate use of which is warm coco-water. Their +muscular power is small, and they are not able to carry more than +fifty pounds weight to any considerable distance. + +[Manufactures.] Besides the chase and agriculture, their occupations +are restricted to the manufacture of extremely rude weapons, for which +they purchase the iron, when required, from the Filipinos, and of +the coarse webs made by the women, and of wicker work. Every father +of a family is master in his own house, and acknowledges no power +higher than himself. In the event of war with neighboring tribes, +the bravest places himself at the head, and the rest follow him as +long as they are able; there is no deliberate choosing of a leader. + +[Death customs.] On the whole, they are peaceful and honorable towards +each other, although the idle occasionally steal the fruits of the +fields; and, should the thief be caught, the person robbed punishes +him with blows of the rattan, without being under any apprehensions +of vengeance in consequence. If a man dies, his nearest kinsmen +go out to requite his death by the death of some other individual, +taken at random. The rule is strictly enforced. For a dead man a man +must be killed; for a woman a woman; and for a child a child. Unless, +indeed, it be a friend they encounter, the first victim that offers +is killed. Latterly, however, owing to the unusual success attained by +some of them in representing the occurrence of death as an unavoidable +destiny, the custom is said to have fallen into desuetude; and the +relatives do not exact the satisfaction. This was easy in the case +of the deceased being an ordinary person; but, to the present day, +vengeance is required in the event of the death of a beloved child or +wife. If a man kills a woman of another house, her nearest kinsman +endeavors to kill a woman of the house of the murderer; but to the +murderer himself he does nothing; and the corpse of the victim thus +slain as a death-offering is not buried, nor is its head cut off; and +her family, in their turn, seek to avenge the death by murder. This +is reckoned the most honorable course. Should the murderer, however, +be too strong to be so overcome, any weaker person, be it who it may, +is slain in retaliation; and hence, probably, the comparatively small +number of women. + +[Marriage.] Polygamy is permitted; but even the most courageous +and skilful seldom or never have more than one wife. A young man +wishing to marry commissions his father to treat with the father +of the bride as to the price; which latterly has greatly increased; +but the average is ten bolos, costing from four to six reals each, +and about $12 in cash; and the acquisition of so large a sum by +the sale of wax, resin, and abacá, often takes the bridegroom two +years. The bride-money goes partly to the father, and partly to the +nearest relations; every one of whom has an equal interest. If there +should be many of them, almost nothing remains for the father, who +has to give a great feast, on which occasion much palm-wine is drunk. + +[Sexual crimes.] Any man using violence towards a girl is killed by +her parents. If the girl was willing, and the father hears of it, +he agrees upon a day with the former, on which he is to bring the +bride's dowry; which should he refuse to do, he is caught by the +relations, bound to a tree, and whipped with a cane. Adultery is +of most rare occurrence; but, when it does take place, the dowry is +returned either by the woman, who then acquires her freedom, or by +the seducer, whom she then follows. The husband has not the right to +detain her, if he takes the money, or even if he should refuse it; +but the latter contingency is not likely to arise, since that sum of +money will enable him to buy for himself a new wife. + +[Basira ravine.] In the afternoon we reached a vast ravine, called +"Basira," 973 meters above Uacloy, and about 1,134 meters above +the sea, extending from south-east to north-west between lofty, +precipitous ranges, covered with wood. Its base, which has an +inclination of 33°, consists of a naked bed of rock, and, after every +violent rainfall, gives issue to a torrent of water, which discharges +itself violently. Here we bivouacked; and the Igorots, in a very short +time, built a hut, and remained on the watch outside. At daybreak +the thermometer stood at 13.9° R. [150] + +[At the summit.] The road to the summit was very difficult on account +of the slippery clay earth and the tough network of plants; but the +last five hundred feet were unexpectedly easy, the very steep summit +being covered with a very thick growth of thinly leaved, knotted, mossy +thibaudia, rhododendra, and other dwarf woods, whose innumerable tough +branches, running at a very small height along the ground and parallel +to it, form a compact and secure lattice-work, by which one mounted +upwards as on a slightly inclined ladder. The point which we reached * +* * was evidently the highest spur of the horseshoe-shaped mountain +side, which bounds the great ravine of Rungus on the north. The top +was hardly fifty paces in diameter, and so thickly covered with trees +that I have never seen its like; we had not room to stand. My active +hosts, however, went at once to work, though the task of cutting a path +through the wood involved severe labor, and, chopping off the branches, +built therewith, on the tops of the lopped trees, an observatory, from +which I should have had a wide panoramic view, and an opportunity for +taking celestial altitudes, had not everything been enveloped in a +thick mist. The neighboring volcanoes were visible only in glimpses, +as well as San Miguel Bay and some lakes in the interior. Immediately +after sunset the thermometer registered 12.5° R. [151] + +[The descent.] On the following morning it was still overcast; and +when, about ten o'clock, the clouds became thicker, we set out on +our return. It was my intention to have passed the night in a rancho, +in order next day to visit a solfatara which was said to be a day's +journey further; but my companions were so exhausted by fatigue that +they asked for at least a few hours' rest. + +[Ferns and orchids.] On the upper slope I observed no palms with the +exception of calamus; but polypodies (ferns) were very frequent, and +orchids surprisingly abundant. In one place all the trees were hung, +at a convenient height, with flowering aërids; of which one could have +collected thousands without any trouble. The most beautiful plant +was a Medinella, of so delicate a texture that it was impossible to +preserve it. + +[Carbonic acid spring.] Within a quarter of an hour north-east +of Uacloy, a considerable spring of carbonic acid bursts from the +ground, depositing abundance of calcareous sinter. Our torches were +quickly extinguished, and a fowl covered with a cigar-box died in +a few minutes, to the supreme astonishment of the Igorots, to whom +these phenomena were entirely new. + +[Farewell to mountaineers.] On the second day of rest, my poor hosts, +who had accompanied me back to Uacloy, still felt so weary that they +were not fit for any undertaking. With naked heads and bellies they +squatted in the burning sun in order to replenish their bodies with +the heat which they had lost during the bivouac on the summit; for +they are not allowed to drink wine. When I finally left them on the +following day, we had become such good friends that I was compelled +to accept a tamed wild pig as a present. A troop of men and women +accompanied me until they saw the glittering roofs of Maguiring, +when, after the exchange of hearty farewells, they returned to their +forests. The natives whom I had taken with me from Goa had proved +so lazy and morose that nearly the whole task of making the path +through the forest had fallen upon the Igorots. From sheer laziness +they threw away the drinking water of which they were the porters; +and the Igorots were obliged to fetch water from a considerable +distance for our bivouac on the summit. In all my troublesome marches, +I have always done better with Cimarrons than with the civilized +natives. The former I have found obliging, trustworthy, active and +acquainted with localities, while the latter generally displayed the +opposite qualities. It would, however, be unjust to form a conclusive +opinion as to their comparative merits from these facts; for the +wild people are at home when in the forest; what they do is done +voluntarily, and the stranger, when he possesses their confidence, is +treated as a guest. [Forced labor.] But the Filipinos are reluctant +companions, Polistas, who, even when they receive a high rate of +wages, consider that they are acting most honorably when they do as +little as possible. At any rate, it is no pleasure to them to leave +their village in order to become luggage-porters or beaters of roads +on fatiguing marches in impracticable districts, and to camp out in +the open air under every deprivation. For them, still more than for +the European peasant, repose is the most agreeable refreshment. The +less comfort any one enjoys at home, the greater is the reluctance +with which he leaves it; and the same thing may be observed in Europe. + +[A petition for liquors.] As the Igorots were not permitted to +have cocoa-palms for the preparation of wine, vinegar and brandy, +so that they might not infringe the monopoly of the government, +they presented me with a petition entreating me to obtain this +favor for them. The document was put together by a Filipino writer +in so ludicrously confused a manner that I give it as a specimen of +Philippine clerkship. [152] At all events, it had the best of results, +for the petitioners were accorded twice as much as they had prayed for. + +[Winds and planting season.] The south-west monsoon lasts in this +region (district of Goa) from April to October. April is very calm +(navegación de señoras). From June to August the south-west winds +blow steadily; March, April, and May are the driest months; there are +shifting winds in March and the beginning of April; while from October +to December is the time of storms; "S. Francisco (4th October) brings +bad weather." Rice is planted in September and reaped in February. + + +CHAPTER XVIII + + +[Mt. Iriga.] From the Isarog I returned through Naga and Nabua to +Iriga, the ascent of which I at length accomplished. + +[The ascent.] The chief of the Montesinos had received daily rations +for twenty-two men, with whom he professed to make a road to the +summit; but when, on the evening of the third day, he came himself +to Iriga, in order to fetch more provisions, on the pretext that +the work still required some time for execution, I explained that +I should endeavor to ascend the mountain on the following morning, +and requested him to act as guide. He consented, but disappeared, +together with his companions, during the night; the Filipinos in +the tribunal having been good enough to hold out the prospect of +severe punishment in case the work performed should not correspond +to the working days. After fruitless search for another guide, +we left Buhi in the afternoon, and passed the night in the rancho, +where we had previously been so hospitably received. The fires were +still burning, but the inhabitants, on our approach, had fled. About +six o'clock on the following morning the ascent began. After we had +gone through the forest, by availing ourselves of the path which we +had previously beaten, it led us through grass three or four feet +in height, with keen-edged leaves; succeeded by cane, from seven +to eight feet high, of the same habitat with our Arundo phragmites +(but it was not in flower), which occupied the whole of the upper +part of the mountain as far as the edge. Only in the ravine did the +trees attain any height. The lower declivities were covered with +aroids and ferns; towards the summit were tendrils and mosses; and +here I found a beautiful, new, and peculiarly shaped orchid. [153] +The Cimarrons had cut down some cane; and, beating down our road for +ourselves with bolos, we arrived at the summit a little before ten +o'clock. It was very foggy. In the hope of a clear evening or morning +I caused a hut to be erected, for which purpose the cane was well +fitted. The natives were too lazy to erect a lodging for themselves, +or to procure wood for a watchfire. They squatted on the ground, +squeezed close to one another to warm themselves, ate cold rice, +and suffered thirst because none of them would fetch water. Of the +two water-carriers whom I had taken with me, one had "inadvertently" +upset his water on the road, and the other had thrown it away "because +he thought we should not require it." + +[Altitude.] I found the highest points of the Iriga to be 1,212 +meters, 1,120 meters above the surface of the Buhi Lake. From Buhi +I went to Batu. + +[Changes in Batu Lake.] The Batu Lake (one hundred eleven meters +above the sea) had sunk lower since my last visit in February. The +carpet of algae had increased considerably in breadth, its upper +edge being in many places decomposed; and the lower passed gradually +into a thick consistency of putrid water-plants (charae, algae, +pontederiae, valisneriae, pistiae, etc.), which encompassed the +surface of the water so that only through a few gaps could one reach +the bank. Right across the mouth of the Quinali lies, in the lake, +a bar of black mud, the softest parts of which were indicated by some +insignificant channels of water. As we could not get over the bar in +a large boat, two small skiffs were bound together with a matting of +bamboo, and provided with an awning. By means of this contrivance, +which was drawn by three strong carabaos (the whole body of men with +evident delight and loud mirth wading knee-deep in the black mud +and assisting by pushing behind) we succeeded, as if on a sledge, +in getting over the obstacle into the river; which on my first visit +overflowed the fields in many places, till the huts of the natives +rose out of the water like so many ships: but now (in June) not one +of its channels was full. We were obliged in consequence to continue +our sledge journey until we were near to Quinali. + +[Ascent of Mt. Mazaraga.] At Ligao I alighted at a friendly Spaniard's, +a great part of the place, together with the tribunal and convent, +having been burnt down since my last visit. After making the necessary +preparations, I went in the evening to Barayong, a little rancho +of Cimarrons at the foot of the Mazaraga, and, together with its +inhabitants, ascended the mountain on the following morning. The +women also accompanied us for some distance, and kept the company in +good humor; and when, on the road, a Filipino who had been engaged +for the purpose wished to give up carrying a bamboo full of water, +and, throwing it away, ran off, an old woman stepped forward in his +stead, and dragged the water cheerfully along up to the summit. This +mountain was moister than any I had ever ascended, the Semeru in +Java, in some respects, excepted; and half-way up I found some rotten +rafflesia. [154] Two miserable-looking Cimarron dogs drove a young +stag towards us, which was slain by one of the people with a blow +of his bolo. The path ceased a third of the way up, but it was not +difficult to get through the wood. The upper portion of the mountain, +however, being thickly overgrown with cane, again presented great +obstacles. About twelve we reached the summit-level, which, pierced by +no crater, is almost horizontal, smoothly arched, and thickly covered +with cane. [Altitude.] Its height is 1,354 meters. In a short time the +indefatigable Cimarrons had built a fine large hut of cane: one room +for myself and the baggage, a large assembly-room for the people, +and a special apartment for cooking. Unfortunately the cane was so +wet that it would not burn. In order to procure firewood to cook the +rice, thick branches were got out of the wood, and their comparatively +dry pith extracted with great labor. The lucifer-matches, too, were +so damp that the phosphorus was rubbed away in friction; but, being +collected on blotting-paper, and kneaded together with the sulphurous +end of the match-wood, it became dry and was kindled by friction. Not +a trace of solid rock was to be seen. All was obstructed by a thick +overgrowth from where the path ceased, and the ground covered with +a dense bed of damp wood-earth. The following morning was fine, and +showed a wide panorama; but, before I had completed my drawing, it +again became misty; and as, after several hours of waiting, the heavens +were overspread with thick rain-clouds, we set out on our return. + +[Butterflies.] Numerous butterflies swarmed around the summit. We +could, however, catch only a few, as the passage over the cane-stubble +was too difficult for naked feet; and, the badly-stitched soles of +two pairs of new shoes which I had brought from Manila having dropped +off some time before I reached the summit, I was compelled to perform +the journey to Ligao barefoot. + +[Native contempt for private Spaniards.] On the following day my +Spanish host went twice to the tribunal to procure the carabao carts +which were necessary for the furtherance of my collections. His +courteous request was unsuccessful; but the command of the parish +priest, who personally informed the Gobernadorcillo in his house, +was immediately obeyed. The Filipino authorities have, as a rule, but +little respect for private Spanish people, and treat them not seldom +with open contempt. An official recommendation from the alcalde is +usually effectual, but not in all the provinces; for many alcaldes do +hurt to their own authority by engaging the assistance or connivance of +the native magistrates in the furtherance of their personal interests. + +[Giant bats.] I here shot some panikes, great bats with wings nearly +five feet wide when extended, which in the day time hang asleep from +the branches of trees, and, among them, two mothers with their young +sucking ones uninjured. It was affecting to see how the little animals +clung more and more firmly to the bodies of their dying parents, +and how tenderly they embraced them even after these were dead. The +apparent feeling, however, was only self-interest at bottom, for, +when their store of milk was exhausted, the old ones were treated +without respect, like empty bottles. As soon as the young ones were +separated, they fed on bananas, and lived several days, until I at +length placed them in spirits. + +[A muddy dry season.] Early in the morning I rode on the priest's +horse to Legaspi, and in the evening through deep mud to the alcalde +at Albay. We were now (June) in the middle of the so-called dry season, +but it rained almost every day; and the road between Albay and Legaspi +was worse than ever. During my visit information arrived from the +commandant of the faluas on the south coast that, as he was pursuing +two pirate vessels, [Power of Moro pirates.] six others suddenly made +their appearance, in order to cut off his return; for which reason he +bad quickly made his way back. The faluas are very strongly manned, and +provided with cannon, but the crews furnished by the localities on the +coast are entirely unpractised in the use of fire-arms, and moreover +hold the Moros in such dread that, if the smallest chance offers of +flight, they avail themselves of it to ensure their safety by making +for the land. The places on the coast, destitute of other arms than +wooden pikes, were completely exposed to the pirates, who had firmly +established themselves in Catanduanes, Biri, and several small islands, +and seized ships with impunity, or robbed men on the land. Almost daily +fresh robberies and murders were announced from the villages on the +shore. During a plundering expedition the men caught are employed at +the oars and at its close sold as slaves; and, on the division of the +spoil, one of the crew falls to the share of the dato (Moro chief) who +fitted out the vessel. [155] The coasting vessels in these waters, it +is true, are mostly provided with artillery, but it is generally placed +in the hold of the ship, as no one on board knows how to use it. If +the cannon be upon deck, either the powder or the shot is wanting; +and the captain promises to be better prepared next time. [156] The +alcalde reported the outrages of the pirates by every post to Manila, +as well as the great injury done to trade, and spoke of the duty of the +[No protection from Government.] Government to protect its subjects, +especially as the latter were not permitted to use fire-arms; [157] and +from the Bisayan Islands came the same cry for help. The Government, +however, was powerless against the evil. If the complaints were indeed +very urgent, they would send a steamer into the waters most infested; +but it hardly ever came in sight of pirates, although the latter were +carrying on their depredations close in front and behind. + +[Government steamer easily eluded.] At Samars, the principal town, +I subsequently met with a Government steamer, which for fourteen days +past had been nominally engaged in cruising against the pirates; but +the latter, generally forewarned by their spies, perceive the smoke +of the steamers sufficiently soon to slip away in their flat boats; +and the officers knew beforehand that their cruise would have no +other result than to show the distressed provinces that their outcry +was not altogether unnoticed. [158] + +[Steam gunboats more successful.] Twenty small steam gunboats of light +draught had shortly before been ordered from England, and were nearly +ready. The first two indeed arrived soon after in Manila (they had to +be transported in pieces round the Cape), and were to be followed by +the rest; and they were at one time almost successful in delivering +the archipelago from these burdensome pests; [159] at least, from +the proscribed Moros who came every year from the Sulu Sea, mostly +from the island of Tawitawi, arriving in May at the Bisayas, and +continuing their depredations in the archipelago until the change +of the monsoon in October or November compelled them to return. +[160] [Renegades join pirates and bandits.] In the Philippines they +gained new recruits among vagabonds, deserters, runaway criminals, +and ruined spendthrifts; and from the same sources were made up the +bands of highway robbers (tulisanes), which sometimes started up, +and perpetuated acts of extraordinary daring. Not long before my +arrival they had made an inroad into a suburb of Manila, and engaged +with the military in the highways. Some of the latter are regularly +employed in the service against the tulisanes. The robbers are not, +as a rule, cruel to their victims when no opposition is offered. [161] + +[Plants from Berlin.] In Legaspi I found awaiting me several chests +with tin lining, which had been sixteen months on their passage by +overland route, instead of seven weeks, having been conveyed from +Berlin by way of Trieste, on account of the Italian war. Their +contents, which had been intended for use in the Philippines +exclusively, were now for the most part useless. In one chest there +were two small flasks with glass stoppers, one filled with moist +charcoal, and the other with moist clay, both containing seeds of the +Victoria Regia and tubers of red and blue nymphae (water-lily). Those +in the first flask were spoiled, as might have been expected; but in +that filled with moist clay two tubers had thrown out shoots of half an +inch in length, and appeared quite sound. I planted them at once, and +in a few days vigorous leaves were developed. One of these beautiful +plants, which had been originally intended for the Buitenzorg Garden +in Java, remained in Legaspi; the other I sent to Manila, where, +on my return, I saw it in full bloom. In the charcoal two Victoria +seeds had thrown out roots above an inch in length, which had rotted +off. Most likely they had been torn up by the custom-house inspectors, +and had afterwards rotted, for the neck of the bottle was broken, +and the charcoal appeared as if it had been stirred. I communicated +the brilliant result of his mode of packing to the Inspector of the +Botanical Gardens at Berlin, who made a second consignment direct +to Java, which arrived in the best condition; so that not only the +Victoria, but also the one which had been derived in Berlin from an +African father and an Asiatic mother, now adorn the water-basins of +Java with red pond-roses (the latter plants probably those of the +Philippines also). + +[Carpentering difficulties.] Being compelled by the continuous rain to +dry my collections in two ovens before packing them, I found that my +servant had burned the greater part, so that the remains found a place +in a roomy chest which I purchased for a dollar at an auction. This +unfortunately lacked a lid; to procure which I was obliged, in the +first place, to liberate a carpenter who had been imprisoned for a +small debt; secondly, to advance money for the purchase of a board +and the redemption of his tools out of pawn; and even then the work, +when it was begun, was several times broken off because previous claims +of violent creditors had to be discharged by labor. In five days the +lid was completed, at the cost of three dollars. It did not last long, +however, for in Manila I had to get it replaced by a new one. + +[Off to Samar.] At Legaspi I availed myself of an opportunity to reach +the island of Samar in a small schooner. It is situated south-east +from Luzon, on the farther side of the Strait of San Bernardino, +which is three leagues in breadth. At the moment of my departure, +to my great regret, my servant left me, "that he might rest a little +from his fatigue," for Pepe was good-natured, very skilful, and +always even-tempered. [Losing a clever assistant.] He had learned +much from the numerous Spanish soldiers and sailors resident in +Cavite, his native place, where he used to be playfully called the +"Spaniard of Cavite." Roving from one place to another was his +delight; and he quickly acquired acquaintances. He knew especially +how to gain the favor of the ladies, for he possessed many social +accomplishments, being equally able to play the guitar and to milk +the carabao-cows. When we came to a pueblo, where a mestiza, or even a +"daughter of the country" (creole), dwelt, he would, when practicable, +ask permission to milk a cow; and after bringing the señora some +of the milk, under pretext of being the interpreter of my wishes, +he would maintain such a flow of ingeniously courteous conversation, +praising the beauty and grace of the lady, and most modestly allowing +his prodigious travelling adventures to be extracted from him, that +both knight and esquire beamed with brilliant radiance. A present +was always welcome, and brought us many a little basket of oranges; +and carabao milk is excellent with chocolate: but it seemed as if +one seldom has the opportunity of milking a cow. Unfortunately Pepe +did not like climbing mountains, and when he was to have gone with +me he either got the stomach-ache or gave away my strong shoes, or +allowed them to be stolen; the native ones, however, being allowed +to remain untouched, for he knew well that they were fit only for +riding, and derived comfort from the fact. In company with me he +worked quickly and cheerfully; but, when alone, it became tedious to +him. Particularly he found friends, who hindered him, and then he would +abandon his skinning of the birds, which therefore became putrid and +had to be thrown away. Packing was still more disagreeable to him, and +consequently he did it as quickly as possible, though not always with +sufficient care, as on one occasion he tied up, in one and the same +bundle, shoes, arsenic-soap, drawings, and chocolate. Notwithstanding +trifling faults of this kind, he was very useful and agreeable to me; +but he did not go willingly to such an uncivilized island as Samar; +and when he received his wages in full for eight months all in a lump, +and so became a small capitalist, he could not resist the temptation +to rest a little from his labors. + + +CHAPTER XIX + + +[Samar.] The island of Samar, which is of nearly rhomboidal outline, +and with few indentations on its coasts, stretches from the north-west +to the south-east from 12° 37' to 10° 54' N.; its mean length being +twenty-two miles, its breadth eleven, and its area two hundred and +twenty square miles. It is separated on the south by the small strait +of San Juanico from the island of Leyte, with which it was formerly +united into one province. At the present time each island has its +separate governor. + +[Former names.] By the older authors the island is called Tendaya, +Ibabao, and also Achan and Filipina. In later times the eastern +side was called Ibabao, and the western Samar, which is now the +official denomination for the whole island, the eastern shore being +distinguished as the Contracosta. [162] + +[Seasons and weather.] As on the eastern coasts of Luzon, the +north-east monsoon here exceeds that from the south-west in duration +and force, the violence of the latter being arrested by the islands +lying to the southwest, while the north-east winds break against +the coasts of these easterly islands with their whole force, and the +additional weight of the body of water which they bring with them from +the open ocean. In October winds fluctuating between north-west and +north-east occur; but the prevalent ones are northerly. In the middle +of November the north-east is constant; and it blows, with but little +intermission, from the north until April. This is likewise the rainy +season, December and January being the wettest, when it sometimes +rains for fourteen days without interruption. In Lauang, on the north +coast, the rainy season lasts from October to the end of December. From +January to April it is dry; May, June, and July are rainy; and August +and September, again, are dry; so that here there are two wet and +two dry seasons in the year. From October to January violent storms +(baguios or typhoons) sometimes occur. Beginning generally with a +north wind, they pass to the north-west, accompanied by a little rain, +then back to the north, and with increasing violence to the north-east +and east, where they acquire their greatest power, and then moderate +to the south. Sometimes, however, they change rapidly from the east +to the south, in which quarter they first acquire their greatest force. + +[Winds and storms.] From the end of March to the middle of June +inconstant easterly winds (N.E.E. and S.E.) prevail, with a very +heavy sea on the east coast. May is usually calm; but in May and +June there are frequent thunderstorms, introducing the south-west +monsoon, which though it extends through the months of July, August, +and September, is not so constant as the north-east. The last-named +three months constitute the dry season, which, however, is often +interrupted by thunderstorms. Not a week, indeed, passes without rain; +and in many years a storm arises every afternoon. At this season of +the year ships can reach the east coast; but during the north-east +monsoon navigation there is impossible. These general circumstances +are subject to many local deviations, particularly on the south and +west coasts, where the uniformity of the air currents is disturbed +by the mountainous islands lying in front of them. According to +the Estado geografico of 1855, an extraordinarily high tide, called +dolo, occurs every year at the change of the monsoon in September or +October. It rises sometimes sixty or seventy feet, and dashes itself +with fearful violence against the south and east coasts, doing great +damage, but not lasting for any length of time. The climate of Samar +and Leyte appears to be very healthy on the coasts; in fact, to be +the best of all the islands of the archipelago. Dysentery, diarrhoea, +and fever occur less frequently than in Luzon, and Europeans also +are less subject to their attacks than in that place. + +[Only the coast settled.] The civilized natives live almost solely +on its coasts, and there are also Bisayans who differ in speech and +manners from the Bicols in about the same degree that the latter do +from the Tagalogs. Roads and villages are almost entirely wanting +in the interior, which is covered with a thick wood, and affords +sustenance to independent tribes, who carry on a little tillage +(vegetable roots and mountain rice), and collect the products of the +woods, particularly resin, honey, and wax, in which the island is +very rich. + +[A tedious but eventful voyage.] On the 3rd of July we lost sight +of Legaspi, and, detained by frequent calms, crawled as far as +Point Montufar, on the northern edge of Albay, then onwards to the +small island of Viri, and did not reach Lauang before evening of +the 5th. The mountain range of Bacon (the Pocdol of Coello), which +on my previous journeys had been concealed by night or mist, now +revealed itself to us in passing as a conical mountain; and beside +it towered a very precipitous, deeply-cleft mountain-side, apparently +the remnant of a circular range. After the pilot, an old Filipino and +native of the country, who had made the journey frequently before, +had conducted us, to begin with, to a wrong port, he ran the vessel +fast on to the bar, although there was sufficient water to sail into +the harbor conveniently. + +[Lauang.] The district of Lauang (Lahuan), which is encumbered with +more than four thousand five hundred inhabitants, is situated at an +altitude of forty feet, on the south-west shore of the small island +of the same name, which is separated from Samar by an arm of the +Catubig. According to a widely-spread tradition, the settlement was +originally in Samar itself, in the middle of the rice-fields, which +continue to the present day in that place, until the repeated inroads +of sea-pirates drove the inhabitants, in spite of the inconvenience +attending it, to protect themselves by settling on the south coast +of the little island, which rises steeply out of the sea. [163] The +latter consists of almost horizontal banks of tufa, from eight to +twelve inches in thickness. The strata being continually eaten away +by the waves at low watermark, the upper layers break off; and thus +the uppermost parts of the strata, which are of a tolerably uniform +thickness, are cleft by vertical fissures, and look like the walls of +a fortress. Pressed for space, the church and the convent have taken +up every level bit of the rock at various heights; and the effect of +this accommodation of architecture to the requirements of the ground, +though not designed by the architect, is most picturesque. + +[Deterioration in the town.] The place is beautifully situated; but the +houses are not so frequently as formerly surrounded by little gardens +while there is a great want of water, and foul odors prevail. Two or +three scanty springs afford a muddy, brackish water, almost at the +level of the sea, with which the indolent people are content so that +they have just enough. Wealthy people have their water brought from +Samar, and the poorer classes are sometimes compelled, by the drying-up +of the springs, to have recourse to the same place. The spring-water +is not plentiful for bathing purposes; and, sea-bathing not being in +favor, the people consequently are very dirty. Their clothing is the +same as in Luzon; but the women wear no tapis, only a camisa (a short +chemise, hardly covering the breast), and a saya, mostly of coarse, +stiff guinara, which forms ugly folds, and when not colored black +is very transparent. But dirt and a filthy existence form a better +screen than opaque garments. The inhabitants of Lauang rightly, +indeed, enjoy the reputation of being very idle. Their industry is +limited to a little tillage, even fishing being so neglected that +frequently there is a scarcity of fish. In the absence of roads by +land, there is hardly any communication by water; and trade is mostly +carried on by mariners from Catbalogan, who exchange the surplus of +the harvests for other produce. + +From the convent a view is had of part of the island of Samar, the +mountain forms of which appear to be a continuation of the horizontal +strata. In the centre of the district, at the distance of some miles, +a table mountain, famous in the history of the country, towers +aloft. [The Palapat revolt.] The natives of the neighboring village +of Palapat retreated to it after having killed their priest, a too +covetous Jesuit father, and for years carried on a guerilla warfare +with the Spaniards until they were finally overpowered by treachery. + +[Pirate outrages.] The interior of the country is difficult to +traverse from the absence of roads, and the coasts are much infested +by pirates. Quite recently several pontins and four schooners, +laden with abacá, were captured, and the crews cruelly murdered, +their bodies having been cut to pieces. This, however, was opposed +to their general practice, for the captives are usually employed at +the oars during the continuance of the foray, and afterwards sold as +slaves in the islands of the Sulu sea. It was well that we did not +encounter the pirates, for, although we carried four small cannons +on board, nobody understood how to use them. [164] + +[Electing officers.] The governor, who was expected to conduct the +election of the district officials in person, but was prevented +by illness, sent a deputy. As the annual elections are conducted +in the same manner over the whole country, that at which I was +present may be taken as typical of the rest. It took place in the +common hall; the governor (or his deputy) sitting at the table, +with the pastor on his right hand, and the clerk on his left--the +latter also acting as interpreter; while Cabezas de Barangay, the +gobernadorcillo, and those who had previously filled the office, took +their places all together on benches. First of all, six cabezas and +as many gobernadorcillos are chosen by lot as electors; the actual +gobernadorcillo is the thirteenth, and the rest quit the hall. After +the reading of the statutes by the president, who exhorts the electors +to the conscientious performance of their duty, the latter advance +singly to the table, and write three names on a piece of paper. Unless +a valid protest be made either by the parish priest or by the electors, +the one who has the most votes is forthwith named gobernadorcillo for +the coming year, subject to the approval of the superior jurisdiction +at Manila; which, however, always consents, for the influence of the +priest would provide against a disagreeable election. The election of +the other functionaries takes place in the same manner, after the new +gobernadorcillo has been first summoned into the hall, in order that, +if he have any important objections to the officers then about to be +elected, he may be able to make them. The whole affair was conducted +very quietly and with dignity. [165] + +[Unsatisfactory forced labor.] On the following morning, accompanied +by the obliging priest, who was followed by nearly all the boys +of the village, I crossed over in a large boat to Samar. Out of +eleven strong baggage porters whom the governor's representative had +selected for me, four took possession of some trifling articles and +sped away with them, three others hid themselves in the bush, and +four had previously decamped at Lauang. The baggage was divided and +distributed amongst the four porters who were detained, and the little +boys who had accompanied us for their own pleasure. We followed the +sea-shore in a westerly direction, and at a very late hour reached the +nearest visita (a suburban chapel and settlement) where the priest +was successful, after much difficulty, in supplying the places of +the missing porters. On the west side of the mouth of the Pambujan +a neck of land projects into the sea, which is a favorite resort +of the [A pirate base.] sea-pirates, who from their shelter in the +wood command the shore which extends in a wide curve on both sides, +and forms the only communication between Lauang and Catarman. Many +travellers had already been robbed in this place; and the father, who +was now accompanying me thus far, had, with the greatest difficulty, +escaped the same danger only a few weeks before. + +The last part of our day's journey was performed very cautiously. A +messenger who had been sent on had placed boats at all the mouths of +rivers, and, as hardly any other Europeans besides ecclesiastics are +known in this district, I was taken in the darkness for a Capuchin in +travelling attire; the men lighting me with torches during the passage, +and the women pressing forward to kiss my hand. I passed the night +on the road, and on the following day reached Catarman (Caladman on +Coello's map), a clean, spacious locality numbering 6,358 souls, at +the mouth of the river of the same name. Six pontins from Catbalogan +awaited their cargoes of rice for Albay. The inhabitants of the north +coast are too indifferent sailors to export their products themselves, +and leave it to the people of [Catbalogan monopoly of interisland +traffic.] Catbalogan, who, having no rice-fields, are obliged to find +employment for their activity in other places. + +[A changed river and a new town.] The river Catarman formerly emptied +further to the east, and was much choked with mud. In the year 1851, +after a continuous heavy rain, it worked for itself, in the loose +soil which consists of quartz sand and fragments of mussels, a new +and shorter passage to the sea--the present harbor, in which ships +of two hundred tons can load close to the land; but in doing so it +destroyed the greater part of the village, as well as the stone church +and the priest's residence. In the new convent there are two salons, +one 16.2 by 8.8, the other 9 by 7.6 paces in dimensions, boarded with +planks from a single branch of a dipterocarpus (guiso). The pace is +equivalent to 30 inches; and, assuming the thickness of the boards, +inclusive of waste, to be one inch, this would give a solid block of +wood as high as a table (two and one-half feet), the same in breadth, +eighteen feet in length, and of about one hundred and ten cubic +feet. [166] The houses are enclosed in gardens; but some of them only +by fencing, within which weeds luxuriate. At the rebuilding of the +village, after the great flood of water, the laying out of gardens +was commanded; but the industry which is required to preserve them is +often wanting. Pasture grounds extend themselves, on the south side +of the village, covered with fine short grass; but, with the exception +of some oxen and sheep belonging to the priest, there are no cattle. + +[Up the river.] Still without servants, I proceeded with my baggage in +two small boats up the river, on both sides of which rice-fields and +coco-groves extended; but the latter, being concealed by a thick border +of Nipa palms and lofty cane, are only visible occasionally through +the gaps. The sandy banks, at first flat, became gradually steeper, +and the rock soon showed itself close at hand, with firm banks of sandy +clay containing occasional traces of indistinguishable petrifactions. A +small mussel [167] has pierced the clay banks at the water-line, in +such number that they look like honeycombs. About twelve we cooked +our rice in an isolated hut, amongst friendly people. The women whom +we surprised in dark ragged clothing of guinara drew back ashamed, +and soon after appeared in clean chequered sayas, with earrings of +brass and tortoise-shell combs. When I drew a little naked girl, the +mother forced her to put on a garment. About two we again stepped into +the boat, and after rowing the whole night reached a small visita, +Cobocobo, about nine in the forenoon. The rowers had worked without +interruption for twenty-four hours, exclusive of the two hours' +rest at noon, and though somewhat tired were in good spirits. + +[Salta Sangley ridge.] At half-past two we set out on the road over +the Salta Sangley (Chinese leap) to Tragbucan, which, distant about a +mile in a straight line, is situated at the place where the Calbayot, +which empties on the west coast at Point Hibaton, becomes navigable for +small boats. By means of these two rivers and the short but troublesome +road, a communication exists between the important stations of Catarman +on the north coast, and Calbayot on the west coast. The road, which +at its best part is a small path in the thick wood uninvaded by the +sun, and frequently is only a track, passes over slippery ridges of +clay, disappearing in the mud puddles in the intervening hollows, and +sometimes running into the bed of the brooks. The watershed between +the Catarman and Calbayot is formed by the Salta Sangley already +mentioned, a flat ridge composed of banks of clay and sandstone, +which succeed one another ladder-wise downwards on both its sides, +and from which the water collected at the top descends in little +cascades. In the most difficult places rough ladders of bamboo are +fixed. I counted fifteen brooks on the north-east side which feed the +Catarman, and about the same number of feeders of the Calbayot on the +south-west side. About forty minutes past four we reached the highest +point of the Salta Sangley, about ninety feet above the sea; and at +half-past six we got to a stream, the highest part of the Calbayot, +in the bed of which we wandered until its increasing depth forced us, +in the dark, laboriously to beat out our path through the underwood +to its bank; and about eight o'clock we found ourselves opposite the +visita Tragbucan. The river at this place was already six feet deep, +and there was not a boat. After shouting entreaties and threats for +a long time, the people, who were startled out of sleep by a revolver +shot, agreed to construct a raft of bamboo, on which they put us and +our baggage. The little place, which consists of only a few poor huts, +is prettily situated, surrounded as it is by wooded hillocks on a +plateau of sand fifty feet above the reed-bordered river. + +[On the Calbayot River.] Thanks to the activity of the teniente of +Catarman who accompanied me, a boat was procured without delay, so +that we were able to continue our journey about seven o'clock. The +banks were from twenty to forty feet high; and, with the exception of +the cry of some rhinoceros birds which fluttered from bough to bough +on the tops of the trees, we neither heard nor saw a trace of animal +life. About half-past eleven we reached Taibago, a small visita, +and about half-past one a similar one, Magubay; and after two hours' +rest at noon, about five o'clock, we got into a current down which +we skilfully floated, almost without admitting any water. The river, +which up to this point is thirty feet broad, and on account of many +projecting branches of trees difficult to navigate, here is twice as +broad. About eleven at night we reached the sea, and in a complete +calm rowed for the distance of a league along the coast to Calbayot, +the convent at which place affords a commanding view of the islands +lying before it. + +A thunderstorm obliged us to postpone the journey to the chief town, +Catbalogan (or Catbalonga), which was seven leagues distant, until +the afternoon. In a long boat, formed out of the stem of one tree, +and furnished with outriggers, we travelled along the shore, which +is margined by a row of low-wooded hills with many small visitas; +and as night was setting in we rounded the point of Napalisan, +a rock of trachytic conglomerate shaped by perpendicular fissures +with rounded edges into a series of projections like towers, +which rises up out of the sea to the height of sixty feet, like +a knight's castle. [Catbalogan.] At night we reached Catbalogan, +the chief town of the island, with a population of six thousand, +which is picturesquely situated in the middle of the western border, +in a little bay surrounded by islands and necks of land, difficult +to approach and, therefore, little guarded. Not a single vessel was +anchored in the harbor. + +The houses, many of which are of boards, are neater than those +in Camarines; and the people, though idle, are more modest, more +honorable, more obliging, and of cleaner habits, than the inhabitants +of South Luzon. Through the courtesy of the governor I quickly obtained +a roomy dwelling, and a servant who understood Spanish. [An ingenious +mechanic.] Here I also met a very intelligent Filipino who had acquired +great skill in a large variety of crafts. With the simplest tools he +improved in many points on my instruments and apparatus, the purpose +of which he quickly comprehended to my entire satisfaction, and gave +many proofs of considerable intellectual ability. + +[The flying monkey.] In Samar the flying monkey or lemur (the kaguang +of the Bisayans--galeopithecus) is not rare. These animals, which are +of the size of the domestic cat, belong to the quadrumana; but, like +the flying squirrels, they are provided with a bird-like membrane, +which, commencing at the neck, and passing over the fore and hinder +limbs, reaches to the tail; by means of which they are able to glide +from one tree to another at a very obtuse angle. [168] Body and +membrane are clothed with a very short fur, which nearly equals the +chinchilla in firmness and softness, and is on that account in great +request. While I was there, six live kaguangs arrived as a present for +the priest (three light grey, one dark brown, and two greyish brown; +all with irregularly distributed spots); and from these I secured a +little female with her young. + +[A hasty and unfounded judgment.] It appeared to be a very harmless, +awkward animal. When liberated from its fetters, it remained lying +on the ground with all its four limbs stretched out, and its belly +in contact with the earth, and then hopped in short awkward leaps, +without thereby raising itself from the ground, to the nearest wall, +which was of planed boards. Arrived there, it felt about it for a long +time with the sharp claw, which is bent inwards, of its fore-hand, +until at length it realized the impossiblity of climbing it at any +part. It succeeded by means of a corner or an accidental crevice in +climbing a foot upwards, and fell down again immediately, because it +had abandoned the comparatively secure footing of its hinder limbs +before its fore-claws had obtained a firm hold. It received no hurt, +as the violence of the fall was broken by the flying membrane which +was rapidly extended. These attempts, which were continued with steady +perseverance, showed an astonishing deficiency of judgment, the animal +endeavoring to do much more than was in its power to accomplish. All +its endeavors, therefore, were unsuccessful, though made without +doing itself any hurt--thanks to the parachute with which Nature +had provided it. Had the kaguang not been in the habit of relying +so entirely on this convenient contrivance, it probably would have +exercised its judgment to a greater extent, and formed a more correct +estimate of its ability. The animal repeated its fruitless efforts so +often that I no longer took any notice of it, and after some time it +disappeared: but I found it again in a dark corner, under the roof, +where it would probably have waited for the night in order to continue +its flight. Evidently it had succeeded in reaching the upper edge of +the boarded wall by squeezing its body between this and the elastic +covering of bamboo hurdle-work which lay firmly imposed upon it; +so that the poor creature, which I had rashly concluded was stupid +and awkward, had, under the circumstances, manifested the greatest +possible skill, prudence, and perseverance. + +[A promise of rare animals and wild people.] A priest who was +present on a visit from Calbigan promised me so many wonders in his +district--abundance of the rarest animals, and Cimarrones uncivilized +in the highest degree--that I accompanied him, on the following day, +in his journey home. In an hour after our departure we reached the +little island of Majava, which consists of perpendicular strata of +a hard, fine-grained, volcanic tufa, with small, bright crystals of +hornblende. The island of Buat (on Coello's map) is called by our +mariners Tubigan. In three hours we reached Umauas, a dependency +of Calbigan. It is situated, fifty feet above the sea, in a bay, +before which (as is so often the case on this coast) a row of small +picturesque islands succeed one another, and is exactly four leagues +from Catbalogan. But Calbigan, which we reached towards evening, is +situated two leagues N.N.E. from Umauas, surrounded by rice-fields, +forty feet above the river of the same name, and almost a league and +a half from its mouth. A tree with beautiful violet-blue panicles +of blossoms is especially abundant on the banks of the Calbigan, +and supplies a most valuable wood for building purposes in the +Philippines. It is considered equal to teak, like which it belongs +to the class verbenaceae; and its inland name is [Molave.] molave +(Vitex geniculata, Blanco). + +[Serpent-charmers.] According to the statements of credible men, +there are serpent-tamers in this country. They are said to pipe the +serpents out of their holes, directing their movements, and stopping +and handling them at will, without being injured by them. The most +famous individual amongst them, however, had been carried off by +the sea-pirates a short time before; another had run away to the +Cimarronese in the mountains; and the third, whose reputation did not +appear to be rightly established, accompanied me on my excursion, +but did not justify the representations of his friends. He caught +two poisonous serpents, [169] which we encountered on the road, by +dexterously seizing them immediately behind the head, so that they were +incapable of doing harm; and, when he commanded them to lie still, +he took the precaution of placing his foot on their necks. In the +chase I hurt my foot so severely against a sharp-pointed branch which +was concealed by the mud that I was obliged to return to Catbalogan +without effecting my object. The inhabitants of Calbigan are considered +more active and circumspect than those on the west coast, and they are +praised for their honesty. I found them very skilful; and they seemed +to take an evident pleasure in making collections and preparing plants +and animals, so that I would gladly have taken with me a servant from +the place; but they are so reluctant to leave their village that all +the priest's efforts to induce one to ride with us were fruitless. + +[A coral garden.] At a short distance north-west from Catbalogan a most +luxuriant garden of corals is to be observed in less than two fathoms, +at the ebb. On a yellow carpet of calcareous polyps and sponges, +groups of leather-like stalks, finger-thick, lift themselves up like +stems of vegetable growth; their upper ends thickly covered with polyps +(Sarcophyton pulmo Esp.), which display their roses of tentacula wide +open, and resplendent with the most beautiful varying colors, looking, +in fact, like flowers in full bloom. Very large serpulites extend +from their calcareous tubes, elegant red, blue, and yellow crowns of +feelers, and, while little fishes of marvellously gorgeous color dart +about in this fairy garden, in their midst luxuriantly grow delicate, +feathered plumulariae. + +[Ornamental but useless forts.] Bad weather and the flight of my +servant, who had gambled away some money with which he had been +entrusted, at a cock-fight, having detained me some days in the +chief town, I proceeded up the bay, which extends southwards from +Catbalogan and from west to east as far as Paranas. Its northern +shore consists of ridges of earth, regular and of equal height, +extending from north to south, with gentle slopes towards the west, +but steep declivities on the east, and terminating abruptly towards +the sea. Nine little villages are situated on this coast between +Catbalogan and Paranas. From the hollows, amidst coco and betel +palms, they expand in isolated groups of houses up the gentle western +slopes, and, on reaching the summit, terminate in a little castle, +which hardly affords protection against the pirates, but generally +forms a pretty feature in the landscape. In front of the southern +edge of the bay, and to the south-west, many small islands and wooded +rocks are visible, with the mountains of Leyte in the high-ground, +constituting an ever-shifting series of views. + +[Paranas.] As the men, owing to the sultry heat, the complete calm, +and almost cloudless sky, slept quite as much as they rowed, we +did not reach Paranas before the afternoon. It is a clean village, +situated on a declivity between twenty and a hundred and fifty feet +above the sea. The sides, which stand perpendicularly in the sea, +consist of grey banks of clay receding landwards, and overspread +with a layer of fragments of mussels, the intervals between which +are filled up with clay, and over the latter is a solid breccia, +cemented with lime, composed of similar fragments. In the clay banks +are well-preserved petrifactions, so similar in color, habitat, and +aspect to many of those in the German tertiary formations that they +might be taken for them. The breccia also is fossil, probably also +tertiary; at all events, the identity of the few species which were +recognisable in it--Cerithium, Pecten, and Venus--with living species +could not be determined. [170] + +[A canal through the bog.] On the following morning I proceeded +northwards by a small canal, through a stinking bog of rhizophora +(mangroves), and then continued my journey on land to Loquilocun, +a little village which is situated in the forest. Half-way we passed +through a river, twenty feet broad, flowing east to west, with steep +banks rendered accessible by ladders. + +[Hammock-travelling.] As I still continued lame (wounds in the feet are +difficult to heal in warm countries), I caused myself to be carried +part of the way in the manner which is customary hereabouts. The +traveller lies on a loose mat, which is fastened to a bamboo frame, +borne on the shoulders of four robust polistas. About every ten +minutes the bearers are relieved by others. As a protection against +sun and rain, the frame is furnished with a light roof of pandanus. + +[Poor roads.] The roads were pretty nearly as bad as those at the +Salta Sangley; and, with the exception of the sea-shore, which is +sometimes available, there appear to be none better in Samar. After +three hours we reached the Loquilocun, which, coming from the north, +here touches its most southerly point, and then flows south-east to +the great ocean. Through the kind care of the governor, I found two +small boats ready, which were propelled with wonderful dexterity by +two men squatted at the extreme ends, and [Running the rapids.] glided +between the branches of the trees and rocks into the bed of the rapid +mountain torrent. Amidst loud cheers both the boats glided down a +cascade of a foot and a half in height without shipping any water. + +[Loquilocun.] The little village of Loquilocun consists of three +groups of houses on three hillocks. The inhabitants were very friendly, +modest, and obliging, and so successful in collecting that the spirits +of wine which I had with me was quickly consumed. In Catbalogan +my messengers were able with difficulty to procure a few small +flasks. Through the awkward arrangements of a too obliging friend, +my own stores, having been sent to a wrong address, did not reach +me until some months afterwards; and the palm-wine, which was to be +bought in Samar, was too weak. One or two boats went out daily to fish +for me; but I obtained only a few specimens, which belonged to almost +as many species and genera. Probably the bad custom of poisoning the +water in order to kill the fish (the pounded fruit of a Barringtonia +here being employed for the purpose) is the cause of the river being +so empty of fish. + +[Numerous small streams.] After a few days we left the little place +about half-past nine in the forenoon, packed closely in two small +boats; and, by seven minutes past one when we reached an inhabited +hut in the forest, we had descended more than forty streams of a +foot and a foot and a half and more in depth. The more important of +them have names which are correctly given on Coello's map; and the +following are their distances by the watch:--At ten o'clock we came +to a narrow, rocky chasm, at the extremity of which the water falls +several feet below into a large basin; and here we unloaded the boats, +which hitherto had, under skilful management, wound their way, like +well-trained horses, between all the impediments in the bed of the +river and over all the cascades and waves, almost without taking any +water; only two men remaining in each boat, who, loudly cheering, +shot downwards; in doing which the boats were filled to the brim. + +[Jasper and Coal.] Opposite this waterfall a bank of rubbish had been +formed by the alluvium, in which, besides fragments of the subjacent +rock, were found well-rounded pieces of jasper and porphyry, as well +as some bits of coal containing several pyrites, which had probably +been brought during the rain from higher up the river. Its origin was +unknown to the sailors. From fifty-six minutes past eleven to twelve +o'clock there was an uninterrupted succession of rapids, which were +passed with the greatest dexterity, without taking in water. Somewhat +lower down, at about three minutes past twelve, we took in so much +water that we were compelled to land and bale it out. At about fifteen +minutes past twelve, we proceeded onwards, the river now being on +the average sixty feet broad. On the edge of the wood some slender +palms, hardly ten feet high, were remarkable by their frequency, +and many phalaenopses by their display of blossoms, which is of +rare occurrence. Neither birds nor apes, nor serpents were observed; +but large pythons, as thick as one's leg are said to be not unfrequent. + +[Big pythons.] About thirty-six minutes past twelve we reached one +of the most difficult places--a succession of waves, with many rocks +projecting out of the water, between which the boats, now in full +career, and with rapid evolutions, glided successfully. The adventure +was accomplished with equal skill by the two crews, who exerted their +powers to the utmost. At seventeen minutes past one we arrived at +[Dini portage.] Dini, the most considerable waterfall in the whole +distance; and here we had to take the boats out of the water; and, +availing ourselves of the lianas which hung down from the lofty forest +trees like ropes, we dragged them over the rocks. At twenty-one minutes +past two we resumed our journey; and from twenty-two minutes past to +half past eight we descended an irregular stair composed of several +ledges, shipping much water. Up to this point the Loquilocun flowed in +a rocky bed, with (for the most part) steep banks, and sometimes for +a long distance under a thick canopy of boughs, from which powerful +tendrils and ferns, more than a fathom in length, were suspended. Here +the country was to some extent open; flat hillocks, with low underwood, +came to view, and, on the north-west, loftier wooded mountains. The +last two hours were notable for a heavy fall of rain, and, about half +past five, we reached a solitary house occupied by friendly people, +where we took up our quarters for the night. + +[Down the river.] On the following morning the journey was continued +down the river. Within ten minutes we glided past the last waterfall, +between white calcareous rocks of a kind of marble, covered with +magnificent vegetation. Branches, completely covered with phalaenopses +(P. Aphrodite, Reichb. fls.), projected over the river, their flowers +waving like large gorgeous butterflies over its foaming current. Two +hours later the stream became two hundred feet broad, and, after +leaping down a ladder of fifty meters in height from Loquilocun, +it steals away in gentle windings through a flat inundated country +to the east coast; forming a broad estuary, on the right bank of +which, half a league from the sea, the district of Jubasan or Paric +(population 2,300) is situated. The latter give their names to the +lower portion of the stream. Here the excellent fellows of Loquilocun +left me in order to begin their very arduous return journey. + +[Along the coast.] Owing to bad weather, I could not embark for Tubig +(population 2,858), south of Paric, before the following day; and, +being continually hindered by difficulties of land transit, I proceeded +in the rowboat along the coast to Borongan (population 7,685), with +the equally intelligent and obliging priest with whom I remained +some days, and then continued my journey to Guiuan (also Guiuang, +Guiguan), the most important district in Samar (population 10,781), +situated on a small neck of land which projects from the south-east +point of the island into the sea. + +[A tideland spring.] Close to the shore at the latter place +a copious spring bursts out of five or six openings, smelling +slightly of sulphuretted hydrogen. It is covered by the sea during +the flow, but is open during the ebb, when its salt taste is hardly +perceptible. In order to test the water, a well was formed by sinking +a deep bottomless jar, and from this, after the water had flowed for +the space of half an hour, a sample was taken, which, to my regret, +was afterwards lost. The temperature of the water of the spring, at +eight o'clock in the forenoon, was 27.7°; of the atmosphere, 28.7°; +of the sea-water, 31.2°C. The spring is used by the women to dye +their sarongs. The materials, after being steeped in the decoction +of a bark abounding in tannin (materials made of the abacá are first +soaked in a calcareous preparation), and dried in the sun, are placed +in the spring during the ebb, taken out during the flow, re-dried, +dipped in the decoction of bark, and again, while wet, placed in the +spring; and this is repeated for the space of three days; when the +result is a durable, but ugly inky black (gallussaures, oxide of iron). + +[East Indian monkeys.] At Loquilocun and Borongan I had an opportunity +of purchasing two live macaques. [171] These extremely delicate +and rare little animals, which belong to the class of semi-apes, +are, as I was assured in Luzon and Leyte, to be found only in +Samar, and live exclusively on charcoal. My first "mago" was, in the +beginning, somewhat voracious, but he disdained vegetable food, and was +particular in his choice of insects, devouring live grasshoppers with +delight. [172] It was extremely ludicrous, when he was fed in the day +time, to see the animal standing, perched up perpendicularly on his two +thin legs with his bare tail, and turning his large head--round as a +ball, and with very large, yellow, owl-like eyes--in every direction, +looking like a dark lantern on a pedestal with a circular swivel. Only +gradually did he succeed in fixing his eyes on the object presented +to him; but, as soon as he did perceive it, he immediately extended +his little arms sideways, as though somewhat bashful, and then, like +a delighted child, suddenly seizing it with hand and mouth at once, +he deliberately tore the prey to pieces. During the day the mago +was sleepy, short-sighted, and, when disturbed, morose; but with +the decreasing daylight he expanded his pupils, and moved about in +a lively and agile manner, with rapid noiseless leaps, generally +sideways. He soon became tame, but to my regret died after a few +weeks; and I succeeded only for a short time in keeping the second +little animal alive. + + +CHAPTER XX + + +[Pearl divers from the Carolines.] In Guiuan I was visited by some +Micronesians, who for the last fourteen days had been engaged at +Sulangan on the small neck of land south-east from Guiuan, in diving +for pearl mussels (mother-of-pearl), having undertaken the dangerous +journey for the express purpose. [173] + +[Hardships and perils of their voyage.] They had sailed from Uleai +(Uliai, 7° 20' N., 143°57' E. Gr.) in five boats, each of which had a +crew of nine men and carried forty gourds full of water, with coconuts +and batata. Every man received one coconut daily, and two batatas, +which they baked in the ashes of the coco shells; and they caught +some fish on the way, and collected a little rain-water. During +the day they directed their course by the sun, and at night by +the stars. A storm destroyed the boats. Two of them sank, together +with their crews, before the eyes of their companions, and of these, +only one--probably the sole individual rescued--two weeks afterwards +reached the harbor of Tandag, on the east coast of Mindanao. The +party remained at Tandag two weeks, working in the fields for hire, +and then proceeded northwards along the coast to Cantilang, 8° 25' N.; +Banouan (called erroneously Bancuan by Coello), 9° 1' N.; Taganaan, 9° +25' N.; thence to Surigao, on the north point of Mindanao; and then, +with an easterly wind, in two days, direct to Guiuan. In the German +translation of Captain Salmon's "History of the Oriental Islands" +(Altona, 1733), it is stated that: + +[Castaways from the Pelews.] "Some other islands on the east of +the Philippines have lately been discovered which have received +the name of the New Philippines because they are situated in the +neighborhood of the old, which have been already described. Father Clan +(Clain), in a letter from Manila, which has been incorporated in the +'Philosophical Transactions,' makes the following statement respecting +them:--It happened that when he was in the town of Guivam, on the +island of Samar, he met twenty-nine Palaos (there had been thirty, +but one died soon after in Guiuan), or natives of certain recently +discovered islands, who had been driven thither by the east winds, +which prevail from December to May. According to their own statement, +they were driven about by the winds for seventy days, without getting +sight of land, until they arrived opposite to Guivam. When they +sailed from their own country, their two boats were quite full, +carrying thirty-five souls, including their wives and children; +but several had died miserably on the way from the fatigue which +they had undergone. When some one from Guivam wished to go on board +to them, they were thrown into such a state of terror that all who +were in one of the boats sprang overboard, along with their wives +and children. However, they at last thought it best to come into +the harbor; so they came ashore on December 28, 1696. They fed on +coconuts and roots, which were charitably supplied to them, but +refused even to taste cooked rice, which is the general food of the +Asiatic nations. [Previous castaways.] Two women who had previously +been cast away on the same islands acted as interpreters for them.... + +[Lived by sea-fishing and rain water.] "The people of the country +went half naked, and the men painted their bodies with spots and +all kinds of devices.... As long as they were on the sea they lived +on fish, which they caught in a certain kind of fish-basket, with a +wide mouth but tapering to a point at the bottom, which was dragged +along underneath the boats; and rain-water, when they could catch it +(or, as is stated in the letter itself, preserved in the shells of the +coconut), served them for drink. When they were about to be taken into +the presence of the Father, whom, from the great respect which was +shown to him, they took for the governor, they colored their bodies +entirely yellow, an operation which they considered highly important, +as enabling them to appear as persons of consideration. They are very +skilful divers, and now and then find pearls in the mussels which +they bring up, which, however, they throw away as useless things." + +[Not the first time for one.] But one of the most important parts of +Father Clain's letter has been omitted by Capt. Salmon:--"The oldest +of these strangers had once before been cast away on the coast of +the province of Caragan, on one of our islands (Mindanao); but as he +found only heathens (infidels), who lived in the mountains or on the +desert shore, he returned to his own country." + +[Yap camotes from Philippines.] In a letter from Father Cantova to +Father d'Aubenton, dated from Agdana (i.e. Agaña, of the Marianne +Islands), March 20, 1722, describing the Caroline and Pelew Islands, +it is said:--"The fourth district lies to the west. Yap (9° 25' N., +138° 1' E. Gr.), [174] which is the principal island, is more than +forty leagues in circumference. Besides the different roots which +are used by the natives of the island instead of bread, there is the +batata, which they call camote, and which they have acquired from +the Philippines, as I was informed by one of our Caroline Indians, +who is a native of the island. He states that his father, named +Coorr, ... three of his brothers, and himself had been cast away in +a storm on one of the provinces in the Philippines, which was called +Bisayas; that a missionary of our society (Jesus) received them in a +friendly manner ... that on returning to their own island they took +with them the seeds of different plants, amongst others the [Other +arrivals of Micronesians.] batata, which multiplied so fast that they +had sufficient to supply the other islands of the Archipelago with +them." Murillo Velarde states that in 1708 some Palaos were wrecked +in a storm on Palapag (north coast of Samar); and I personally had +the opportunity, in Manila, of photographing a company of Palaos and +Caroline islanders, who had been the year before cast on the coast of +Samar by foul weather. Apart from the question of their transport, +whether voluntary or not, these simply were six examples, such +as still occur occasionally, of Micronesians cast up on the shore +of the Philippines; and probably it would not be difficult to find +several more; but how often, both before and after the arrival of the +Spaniards, might not vessels from those islands have come within the +influence of the north-east storms, and been driven violently on the +east coast of the Philippines without any record of such facts being +preserved? [175] Even as, on the west side of the Archipelago, the +type of the race seems to have been modified by its long intercourse +with China, Japan, Lower India, and later with Europe, so likewise may +Polynesian [Possible influence on Filipinos.] influences have operated +in a similar manner on the east side; and the further circumstance +that the inhabitants of the Ladrones [176] and the Bisayans [177] +possess the art of coloring their teeth black, seems to point to +early intercourse between the Bisayans and the Polynesians. [178] + +[A futile sea voyage in an open boat.] At Guiuan I embarked on board +an inconveniently cranky, open boat, which was provided with an awning +only three feet square, for Tacloban, the chief town of Leyte. After +first experiencing an uninterrupted calm, we incurred great danger +in a sudden tempest, so that we had to retrace the whole distance +by means of the oars. The passage was very laborious for the crew, +who were not protected by an awning (temperature in the sun 35° R., +of the water 25° R. [179]), and lasted thirty-one hours, with few +intermissions; the party voluntarily abridging their intervals of rest +in order to get back quickly to Tacloban, which keeps up an active +intercourse with Manila, and has all the attractions of a luxurious +city for the men living on the inhospitable eastern coast. [Beauty +of Samar-Leyte strait.] It is questionable whether the sea anywhere +washes over a spot of such peculiar beauty as the narrow strait which +divides Samar from Leyte. On the west it is enclosed by steep banks +of tuff, which tolerate no swamps of mangroves on their borders. There +the lofty primeval forest approaches in all its sublimity close to the +shore, interrupted only here and there by groves of cocos, in whose +sharply defined shadows solitary huts are to be found; and the steep +hills facing the sea, and numerous small rocky islands, are crowned +with little castles of blocks of coral. At the eastern entrance of +the strait the south coast of Samar consists of white limestone, +like marble, but of quite modern date, which in many places forms +precipitous cliffs. [180] At Nipa-Nipa, a small hamlet two leagues from +Basey, they project into the sea in a succession of picturesque rocks, +above one hundred feet in height, which, rounded above like a dome, +thickly covered with vegetation, and corroded at the base by the waters +of the sea, rise out of the waves like gigantic mushrooms. A peculiar +atmosphere of enchantment pervades this locality, whose influence upon +the native mariner must be all the more powerful when, fortunately +escaping from the billows outside and the buffeting of the north-east +wind, he suddenly enters this tranquil place of refuge. No wonder +that superstitious imagination has peopled the place with spirits. + +[Burial caves.] In the caverns of these rocks the ancient Pintados +interred the corpses of their heroes and ancestors in well-locked +coffins, surrounded by those objects which had been held in the highest +regard by them during life. Slaves were also sacrificed by them at +their obsequies, in order that they might not be without attendance +in the world of shadows; [181] and the numerous coffins, implements, +arms, and trinkets, protected by superstitious terrors, continued to +be undisturbed for centuries. No boat ventured to cross over without +the observance of a religious ceremony, derived from heathen times, +to propitiate the spirits of the caverns who were believed to punish +the omission of it with storm and ship-wreck. + +[Objects destroyed but superstition persists.] About thirty years ago +a zealous young ecclesiastic, to whom these heathen practices were an +abomination, determined to extirpate them by the roots. With several +boats well equipped with crosses, banners, pictures of saints, and +all the approved machinery for driving out the Devil, he undertook +the expedition against the haunted rocks, which were climbed amidst +the sounds of music, prayers, and the reports of fireworks. A whole +pailful of holy water first having been thrown into the cave for the +purpose of confounding the evil spirits, the intrepid priest rushed +in with elevated cross, and was followed by his faithful companions, +who were fired with his example. A brilliant victory was the reward +of the well-contrived and carefully executed plot. The coffins were +broken to fragments, the vessels dashed to pieces, and the skeletons +thrown into the sea; and the remaining caverns were stormed with like +results. The objects of superstition have indeed been annihilated, +but the superstition itself survives to the present day. + +[Skulls from a rock near Basey.] I subsequently learned from the +priest at Basey that there were still some remains on a rock, and +a few days afterwards the worthy man surprised me with several +skulls and a child's coffin, which he had had brought from the +place. Notwithstanding the great respect in which he was held by his +flock, he had to exert all his powers of persuasion to induce the +boldest of them to engage in so daring an enterprise. A boat manned +by sixteen rowers was fitted out for the purpose; with a smaller crew +they would not have ventured to undertake the journey. On their return +home a thunderstorm broke over them, and the sailors, believing it to +be a punishment for their outrage, were prevented only by the fear +of making the matter worse from throwing coffin and skulls into the +sea. Fortunately the land was near, and they rowed with all their +might towards it; and, when they arrived, I was obliged to take the +objects out of the boat myself, as no native would touch them. + +[The cavern's contents.] Notwithstanding, I was the next morning +successful in finding some resolute individuals who accompanied +me to the caverns. In the first two which we examined we found +nothing; the third contained several broken coffins, some skulls, +and potsherds of glazed and crudely painted earthenware, of which, +however, it was impossible to find two pieces that belonged to each +other. A narrow hole led from the large cavern into an obscure space, +which was so small that one could remain in it only for a few seconds +with the burning torch. This circumstance may explain the discovery, +in a coffin which was eaten to pieces by worms, and quite mouldered +away, of a well-preserved skeleton, or rather a mummy, for in many +places there were carcasses clothed with dry fibers of muscle and +skin. It lay upon a mat of pandanus, which was yet recognizable, with +a cushion under the head stuffed with plants, and covered with matting +of pandanus. There were no other remains of woven material. The coffins +were of three shapes and without any ornament. Those of the first form, +which were of excellent molave-wood, showed no trace of worm-holes or +decay, whereas the others had entirely fallen to dust; and those of +the third kind, which were most numerous, were distinguishable from +the first only by a less curved form and inferior material. + +[Impressive location of burial cave.] No legend could have supplied +an enchanted royal sepulchre with a more suitable approach than that +of the last of these caverns. The rock rises out of the sea with +perpendicular sides of marble, and only in one spot is to be observed +a natural opening made by the water, hardly two feet high, through +which the boat passed at once into a spacious court, almost circular, +and over-arched by the sky, the floor of which was covered by the sea, +and adorned with a garden of corals. The steep sides are thickly hung +with lianas, ferns, and orchids, by help of which one climbs upwards +to the cavern, sixty feet above the surface of the water. To add to +the singularity of the situation, we also found at the entrance to +the grotto, on a large block of rock projecting two feet above the +ground, [A sea snake.] a sea-snake, which tranquilly gazed at us, +but which had to be killed, because, like all genuine sea-snakes, +it was poisonous. Twice before I had found the same species in +crevices of rock on the dry land, where the ebb might have left it; +but it was strange to meet with it in this place, at such a height +above the sea. It now reposes, as Platurus fasciatus Daud., in the +Zoological Museum of the Berlin University. + +[Chinese dishers from a cave.] In Guiuan I had an opportunity of +purchasing four richly painted Chinese dishes which came from a +similar cavern, and a gold signet ring; the latter consisting of a +plate of gold, originally bent into a tube of the thickness of a quill +with a gaping seam, and afterwards into a ring as large as a thaler, +which did not quite meet. The dishes were stolen from me at Manila. + +[Burial caves.] There are similar caverns which have been used +as burial-places in many other localities in this country; on the +island of Andog, in Borongan (a short time ago it contained skulls); +also at Batinguitan, three hours from Borongan, on the banks of a +little brook; and in Guiuan, on the little island of Monhon, which is +difficult of approach by reason of the boisterous sea. In Catubig +trinkets of gold have been found, but they have been converted +into modern articles of adornment. One cavern at Lauang, however, +is famous over the whole country on account of the gigantic, flat, +compressed skulls, without sutures, which have been found in it. +[182] It will not be uninteresting to compare the particulars here +described with the statements of older authors; and for this reason +I submit the following extracts:-- + +[Embalming.] Mas (Informe, i. 21), who does not give the sources of +his information, thus describes the customs of the ancient inhabitants +of the archipelago at their interments:--They sometimes embalmed +their dead with aromatic substances * * * and placed those who were +of note in chests carved out of a branch of a tree, and furnished +with well-fitted lids * * * The coffin was placed, in accordance with +the wish of the deceased, expressed before his death, either in the +uppermost room of the house, where articles of value were secreted, +or under the dwelling-house, in a kind of grave, which was not +covered, but enclosed with a railing; or in a distant field, or on +an elevated place or rock on the bank of a river, where he might be +venerated by the pious. A watch was set over it for a certain time, +lest boats should cross over, and the dead person should drag the +living after him. + +[Burial customs.] According to Gaspar San Agustín (p. 169), the +dead were rolled up in cloths, and placed in clumsy chests, carved +out of a block of wood, and buried under their houses, together with +their jewels, gold rings, and some plates of gold over the mouth and +eyes, and furnished with provisions, cups, and dishes. They were also +accustomed to bury slaves along with men of note, in order that they +might be attended in the other world. + +"Their chief idolatry consisted in the worship of those of their +ancestors who had most distinguished themselves by courage and genius, +whom they regarded as deities * * * * They called them humalagar, +which is the same as manes in the Latin * * * Even the aged died under +this conceit, choosing particular places, such as one on the island of +Leyte, which allowed of their being interred at the edge of the sea, +in order that the mariners who crossed over might acknowledge them +as deities, and pay them respect." (Thévenot, Religieux, p. 2.) + +[Slaves sacrificed.] "They did not place them (the dead) in the earth, +but in coffins of very hard, indestructible wood * * * Male and female +slaves were sacrificed to them, that they should not be unattended +in the other world. If a person of consideration died, silence was +imposed upon the whole of the people, and its duration was regulated +by the rank of the deceased; and under certain circumstances it was +not discontinued until his relations had killed many other persons +to appease the spirit of the dead." (Ibid., p. 7.) + +"For this reason (to be worshipped as deities) the oldest of them +chose some remarkable spot in the mountains, and particularly on +headlands projecting into the sea, in order to be worshipped by the +sailors." (Gemelli Careri, p. 449.) + +[Basey and its river.] From Tacloban, which I chose for my headquarters +on account of its convenient tribunal, and because it is well supplied +with provisions, I returned on the following day to Samar, and then +to Basey, which is opposite to Tacloban. The people of Basey are +notorious over all Samar for their laziness and their stupidity, but +are advantageously distinguished from the inhabitants of Tacloban by +their purity of manners. Basey is situated on the delta of the river, +which is named after it. We proceeded up a small arm of the principal +stream, which winds, with a very slight fall, through the plain; +the brackish water, and the fringe of nipa-palms which accompanies +it, consequently extending several leagues into the country. Coco +plantations stretch behind them; and there the floods of water +(avenidas), which sometimes take place in consequence of the narrow +rocky bed of the upper part of the river, cause great devastation, +as was evident from the mutilated palms which, torn away from their +standing-place, rise up out of the middle of the river. After five +hours' rowing we passed out of the flat country into a narrow valley, +with steep sides of marble, which progressively closed in and became +higher. In several places they are underwashed, cleft, and hurled over +each other, and with their naked side-walls form a beautiful contrast +to the blue sky, the clear, greenish river, and the luxuriant lianas, +which, attaching themselves to every inequality to which they could +cling, hung in long garlands over the rocks. + +[A frontage.] The stream became so rapid and so shallow that the party +disembarked and dragged the boat over the stony bed. In this manner +we passed through a sharp curve, twelve feet in height, formed by two +rocks thrown opposite to each other, into a tranquil oval-shaped basin +of water enclosed in a circle of limestone walls, inclining inwards, +of from sixty to seventy feet in height; on the upper edge of which a +circle of trees permitted only a misty sunlight to glimmer through the +thick foliage. A magnificent gateway of rock, fifty to sixty feet high, +and adorned with numerous stalactites, raised itself up opposite the +low entrance; and through it we could see, at some distance, the upper +portion of the river bathed in the sun. [A beautiful grotto.] A cavern +of a hundred feet in length, and easily climbed, opened itself in the +left side of the oval court, some sixty feet above the surface of the +water; and it ended in a small gateway, through which you stepped on +to a projection like a balcony, studded with stalactites. From this +point both the landscape and the rocky cauldron are visible, and +the latter is seen to be the remainder of a stalactitic cavern, the +roof of which has fallen in. The beauty and peculiar character of the +place have been felt even by the natives, who have called it Sogoton +(properly, a bay in the sea). In the very hard limestone, which is +like marble, I observed traces of bivalves and multitudes of spines of +the sea-urchin, but no well-defined remains could be knocked off. The +river could still be followed a short distance further upwards; and in +its bed there were disjointed fragments of talcose and chloritic rocks. + +[Fishing.] A few small fishes were obtained with much difficulty; +and amongst them was a new and interesting species, viviparous. [183] +An allied species (H. fluviatilis, Bleeker) which I had two years +previously found in a limestone cavern on Nusa Kambangan, in Java, +likewise contained living young ones. The net employed in fishing +appears to be suited to the locality, which is a shallow river, full of +transparent blocks. It is a fine-meshed, longish, four-cornered net, +having its ample sides fastened to two poles of bamboo, which at the +bottom were provided with a kind of wooden shoes, which curve upwards +towards the stems when pushed forwards. The fisherman, taking hold of +the upper ends of the poles, pushes the net, which is held obliquely +before him, and the wooden shoes cause it to slide over the stones, +while another person drives the fish towards him. + +[Fossil beds.] On the right bank, below the cavern, and twenty +feet above the surface of the water, there are beds of fossils, +pectunculus, tapes, and placuna, some of which, from the fact of +their barely adhering by the tip, must be of very recent date. I +passed the night in a small hut, which was quickly erected for me, +and on the following day attempted to pass up the river as far as the +limits of the crystalline rock, but in vain. In the afternoon we set +out on our return to Basey, which we reached at night. + +[Recent elevation of coast.] Basey is situated on a bank of clay, +about fifty feet above the sea, which towards the west elevates itself +into a hill several hundred feet in height, and with steep sides. At +twenty-five to thirty feet above the sea I found the same recent beds +of mussels as in the stalactitic cavern of Sogoton. From the statements +of the parish priest and of other persons, a rapid elevation of the +coasts seems to be taking place in this country. Thirty years ago +ships could lie alongside the land in three fathoms of water at the +flood, whereas the depth at the same place now is not much more than +one fathom. Immediately opposite to Basey lie two small islands, +Genamok and Tapontonan, which, at the present time, appear to be +surrounded by a sandbank at the lowest ebb-tide. Twenty years ago +nothing of the kind was to be seen. Supposing these particulars to +be correct, we must next ascertain what proportion of these changes +of level is due to the floods, and how much to volcanic elevation; +which, if we may judge by the neighboring active solfatara at Leyte, +must always be of considerable amount. + +[Crocodiles.] As the priest assured us, there are crocodiles in the +river Basey over thirty feet in length, those in excess of twenty +feet being numerous. The obliging father promised me one of at least +twenty-four feet, whose skeleton I would gladly have secured; and he +sent out some men who are so practised in the capture of these animals +that they are dispatched to distant places for the purpose. Their +contrivance for capturing them, which I, however, never personally +witnessed, consists of a light raft of bamboo, with a stage, on which, +several feet above the water, a dog or a cat is bound. Alongside +the animal is placed a strong iron hook, which is fastened to the +swimming bamboo by means of fibers of abacá. The crocodile, when +it has swallowed the bait and the hook at the same time, endeavors +in vain to get away, for the pliability of the raft prevents its +being torn to pieces, and the peculiar elasticity of the bundle of +fibers prevents its being bitten through. The raft serves likewise +as a buoy for the captured animal. According to the statements of +the hunters, the large crocodiles live far from human habitations, +generally selecting the close vegetation in an oozy swamp, in which +their bellies, dragging heavily along, leave trails behind them which +betray them to the initiated. After a week the priest mentioned that +his party had sent in three crocodiles, the largest of which, however, +measured only eighteen feet, but that he had not kept one for me, +as he hoped to obtain one of thirty feet. His expectation, however, +was not fulfilled. + +[Ignatius bean.] In the environs of Basey the Ignatius bean grows +in remarkable abundance, as it also does in the south of Samar and +in some other of the Bisayan islands. It is not met with in Luzon, +but it is very likely that I have introduced it there unwittingly. Its +sphere of propagation is very limited; and my attempts to transplant +it to the Botanical Garden of Buitenzorg were fruitless. Some large +plants intended for that purpose, which during my absence arrived +for me at Daraga, were incorporated by one of my patrons into his +own garden; and some, which were collected by himself and brought +to Manila, were afterwards lost. Every effort to get these seeds +(kernels), which are used over the whole of Eastern Asia as medicine, +to germinate miscarried, they having been boiled before transmission, +ostensibly for their preservation, but most probably to secure the +monopoly of them. + +[Strychnine.] According to Flueckinger, [184] the gourd-shaped +berry of the climbing shrub (Ignatia amara, L. Strychnos Ignatii, +Berg. Ignatiana Philippinica. Lour.) contains twenty-four irregular +egg-shaped seeds of the size of an inch which, however, are not so +poisonous as the Ignatius beans, which taste like crack-nuts. In +these seeds strychnine was found by Pelletier and Caventou in 1818, +as it subsequently was in crack-nuts. The former contained twice as +much of it as the latter, viz. one and a half per cent; but, as they +are four times as dear, it is only produced from the latter. + +[Cholera and snake-bite cure.] In many households in the Philippines +the dangerous drug is to be found as a highly prized remedy, under the +name of Pepita de Catbalonga. Gemelli Careri mentions it, and quotes +thirteen different uses of it. Dr. Rosenthal ("Synopsis Plantarum +Diaphor." p. 363) says:--"In India it has been employed as a remedy +against cholera under the name of Papecta." Papecta is probably a +clerical error. In K. Lall Dey's "Indigenous Drugs of India," it is +called Papeeta, which is pronounced Pepita in English; and Pepita is +the Spanish word for the kernel of a fruit. It is also held in high +estimation as an antidote for the bite of serpents. Father Blanco +("Flora of the Philippines," 61), states that he has more than once +proved its efficacy in this respect in his own person; but he cautions +against its employment internally, as it had been fatal in very many +cases. It should not be taken into the mouth, for should the spittle +be swallowed, and vomiting not ensue, death would be inevitable. The +parish priest of Tabaco, however, almost always carried a pepita in +his mouth. From 1842 he began occasionally to take an Ignatius bean +into his mouth as a protection against cholera, and so gradually +accustomed himself to it. When I met him in 1860 he was quite well, +and ascribed his health and vigor expressly to that habit. According to +his communication, in cases of cholera the decoction was successfully +administered in small doses introduced into tea; but it was most +efficacious when, mixed with brandy, it was applied as a liniment. + +[Superstitions regarding the "Bisayan" bean.] Huc also ("Thibet," +I. 252) commends the expressed juice of the kouo-kouo (Faba +Ign. amar.) both for internal and external use, and remarks that it +plays a great part in Chinese medicine, no apothecary's shop being +without it. Formerly the poisonous drug was considered a charm, as +it is still by many. Father Camel [185] states that the Catbalogan +or Bisayan-bean, which the Indians call Igasur or Mananaog (the +victorious), was generally worn as an amulet round the neck, being +a preservative against poison, contagion, magic, and philtres, so +potent, indeed, that the Devil in propia persona could not harm the +wearer. Especially efficacious is it against a poison communicated by +breathing upon one, for not only does it protect the wearer, but it +kills the individual who wishes to poison him. Camel further mentions +a series of miracles which superstition ascribed to the Ignatius bean. + +[Coconuts.] On the southern half of the eastern border, on the shore +from Borongan by Lauang as far as Guiuan, there are considerable +plantations of cocos, which are most imperfectly applied to the +production of oil. From Borongan and its visitas twelve thousand +pitchers of coconut oil are yearly exported to Manila, and the nuts +consumed by men and pigs would suffice for at least eight thousand +pitchers. As a thousand nuts yield eight pitchers and a half, the +vicinity of Borongan alone yields annually six million nuts; for +which, assuming the average produce at fifty nuts, one hundred-twenty +thousand fullbearing palms are required. The statement that their +number in the above-mentioned district amounts to several millions +must be an exaggeration. + +[Getting coco oil.] The oil is obtained in a very rude manner. The +kernel is rasped out of the woody shell of the nut on rough boards, +and left to rot; and a few boats in a state of decay, elevated on posts +in the open air, serve as reservoirs, the oil dropping through their +crevices into pitchers placed underneath; and finally the boards are +subjected to pressure. This operation, which requires several months +for its completion, yields such a bad, dark-brown, and viscid product +that the pitcher fetches only two dollars and a quarter in Manila, +while a superior oil costs six dollars. [186] + +[Oil factory.] Recently a young Spaniard has erected a factory +in Borongan for the better preparation of oil. A winch, turned by +two carabaos, sets a number of rasps in motion by means of toothed +wheels and leather straps. They are somewhat like a gimlet in form, +and consist of five iron plates, with dentated edges, which are +placed radiating on the end of an iron rod, and close together, +forming a blunt point towards the front. The other end of the rod +passes through the center of a disk, which communicates the rotary +motion to it, and projects beyond it. The workman, taking a divided +coconut in his two hands, holds its interior arch, which contains the +oil-bearing nut, with a firm pressure against the revolving rasp, at +the same time urging with his breast, which is protected by a padded +board, against the projecting end of the rod. The fine shreds of the +nut remain for twelve hours in flat pans, in order that they may be +partially decomposed. They are then lightly pressed in hand-presses; +and the liquor, which consists of one-third oil and two-thirds water, +is caught in tubs, from which, at the end of six hours, the oil, +floating on the surface, is skimmed off. It is then heated in iron +pans, containing 100 liters, until the whole of the water in it has +evaporated, which takes from two to three hours. In order that the +oil may cool rapidly, and not become dark in color, two pailfuls of +cold oil, freed from water, are poured into it, and the fire quickly +removed to a distance. The compressed shreds are once more exposed +to the atmosphere, and then subjected to a powerful pressure. After +these two operations have been twice repeated, the rasped substance +is suspended in sacks between two strong vertical boards and crushed +to the utmost by means of clamp screws, and repeatedly shaken up. The +refuse serves as food for pigs. The oil which runs from the sacks is +free from water, and is consequently very clear, and is employed in +the cooling of that which is obtained in the first instance. [187] + +[Limited output.] The factory produces fifteen hundred tinajas of +oil. It is in operation only nine months in the year; from December to +February the transport of nuts being prevented by the tempestuous seas, +there being no land communication. The manufacturer was not successful +in procuring nuts from the immediate vicinity in sufficient quantity +to enable him to carry on his operations without interruption, nor, +during the favorable season of the year, could he lay up a store for +the winter months, although he paid the comparatively high price of +three dollars per thousand. + +[Illogical business.] While the natives manufactured oil in the manner +just described, they obtained from a thousand nuts three and a half +pots, which, at six reals each, fetched twenty-one reals; that is three +reals less than was offered them for the raw nuts. These data, which +are obtained from the manufacturers, are probably exaggerated, but +they are in the main well founded; and the traveller in the Philippines +often has the opportunity of observing similar anomalies. For example, +in Daet, North Camarines, I bought six coconuts for one cuarto, at +the rate of nine hundred and sixty for one dollar, the common price +there. On my asking why no oil-factory had been erected, I received +for answer that the nuts were cheaper singly than in quantities. In +the first place, the native sells only when he wants money; but he +knows that the manufacturer cannot well afford to have his business +suspended; so, careless of the result, he makes a temporary profit, +and never thinks of ensuring for himself a permanent source of income. + +[Sugar venders.] In the province of Laguna, where the natives prepare +coarse brown sugar from sugar-cane, the women carry it for leagues to +the market, or expose it for sale on the country roads, in small loaves +(panoche), generally along with buyo. Every passenger chats with the +seller, weighs the loaf in the hand, eats a bit, and probably passes +on without buying any. In the evening the woman returns to her home +with her wares, and the next day repeats the same process. + +[Disproportionate prices.] I have lost my special notes, but I +remember that in two cases at least the price of the sugar in these +loaves was cheaper than by the picul. Moreover, the Government of the +day anticipated the people in setting the example, by selling cigars +cheaper singly than in quantities. + +[Uncertain trading.] In Europe a speculator generally can calculate +beforehand, with the greatest certainty, the cost of production of any +article; but in the Philippines it is not always so easy. Independently +of the uncertainty of labor, the regularity of the supply of raw +material is disturbed, not only by laziness and caprice, but also +by jealousy and distrust. The natives, as a rule, do not willingly +see Europeans settle amongst them and engage successfully in local +operations which they themselves do not understand how to execute; and +in like manner the creoles are reserved with foreigners, who generally +are superior to them in capital, skill, and activity. Besides jealousy, +suspicion also plays a great part, and this influences the native +as well against the mestizo as against the Castilian. Enough takes +place to the present day to justify this feeling; but formerly, when +the most thrifty subjects could buy governorships, and shamelessly +fleece their provinces, such outrageous abuses are said to have been +permitted until, in process of time, suspicion has become a kind of +instinct amongst the Filipinos. + + +CHAPTER XXI + + +[Leyte.] The island of Leyte, between 9° 49' and 11° 34' N., and +124° 7' and 125° 9' E. Gr., is above twenty-five miles in length, +and almost twelve miles broad, and contains one hundred seventy +square miles. As I have already remarked, it is divided from Samar +only by the small strait of San Juanico. The chief town, Tacloban or +Taclobang, lies at the eastern entrance of this strait, with a very +good harbor and uninterrupted communication with Manila, and has +consequently become the chief emporium of trade to Leyte, Biliran, +and South and East Samar. [188] + +[Obliging Spanish officials.] The local governor likewise showed me +much obliging attention; indeed, almost without exception I have, +since my return, retained the most agreeable remembrances of the +Spanish officials; and, therefore, if fitting opportunity occurred, +I could treat of the improprieties of the Administration with greater +impartiality. + +[Locusts.] In the afternoon of the day after my arrival at Tacloban, on +a sudden there came a sound like the rush of a furious torrent; the air +became dark, and a large cloud of locusts swept over the place. [189] +I will not again recount that phenomenon, which has been so often +described, and is essentially the same in all quarters of the globe, +but will simply remark that the swarm, which was more than five hundred +feet in width, and about fifty feet in depth, its extremity being +lost in the forest, was not thought a very considerable one. It caused +vigilance, but not consternation. Old and young eagerly endeavored to +catch as many of the delicate creatures as they could, with cloths, +nets, and flags, in order, as Dampier relates, "to roast them in +an earthen pan over fire until their legs and wings drop off, and +their heads and backs assume the color of boiled crabs;" after which +process he says they had a pleasant taste. In Burma at the present day, +they are considered as delicacies at the royal court. [190] + +[Plan for their extermination.] The locusts are one of the greatest +plagues of the Philippines, and sometimes destroy the harvest of entire +provinces. The Legislación Ultramarina (iv. 504) contains a special +edict respecting the extirpation of these devastating pests. As soon +as they appear, the population of the invaded localities are to be +drawn out in the greatest possible numbers, under the conduct of the +authorities, in order to effect their destruction. The most approved +means for the attainment of this object are set forth in an official +document referring to the adoption of extraordinary measures in cases +of public emergency; and in this the locusts are placed midway between +sea-pirates and conflagrations. Of the various means that have been +contrived against the destructive creatures, that, at times, appear +in incredible numbers, but have been as frequently ineffectual as +otherwise, only a few will be now mentioned. On April 27, 1824, +the Sociedad Economica determined to import the bird, the martin +(Gracula sp.), "which feeds by instinct on locusts." In the autumn +of the following year the first consignment arrived from China; in +1829 a second; and in 1852 again occurs the item of $1,311 for martins. + +[Tacloban to Tanauan.] On the following day I proceeded with the +priest of Dagami (there are roads in Leyte) from Tacloban southwards +to Palos and Tanauan, two flourishing places on the east coast. Hardly +half a league from the latter place, and close to the sea, a cliff +of crystal lime rock rises up out of the sandy plain, which was level +up to this point. It is of a greyish-green quartzose chlorite schist, +from which the enterprising Father had endeavored, with a perseverance +worthy of better success, to procure lime by burning. After an ample +breakfast in the convent, we proceeded in the afternoon to Dagami, +and, on the next day, to Burauen. [191] + +[A pleasing people.] The country was still flat. Coco-groves and +rice-fields here and there interrupted the thick forest; but the +country is thinly inhabited, and the people appear more cheerful, +handsomer, and cleaner than those of Samar. South of Burauen rises +the mountain ridge of Manacagan, on the further slope of which is a +large solfatara, which yields sulphur for the powder manufactory in +Manila, and for commerce. A Spanish sailor accompanied me. Where the +road passed through swamp we rode on carabaos. The pace of the animals +is not unpleasant, but the stretching across the broad backs of the +gigantic carabaos of the Philippines is very fatiguing. A quarter of an +hour beyond Burauen we crossed the Daguitan, which flows south-west to +north-east, and is a hundred feet broad, its bed being full of large +volcanic blocks; and, soon after, a small river in a broad bed; and, +some hundred paces farther, one of a hundred and fifty feet in breadth; +the two latter being arms of the Burauen. They flow from west to east, +and enter the sea at Dulag. The second arm was originated only the +preceding year, during a flood. + +[The height of hospitality.] We passed the night in a hut on +the northern slope of the Manacagan, which the owner, on seeing +us approach, had voluntarily quitted, and with his wife and child +sought other lodgings. The customs of the country require this when +the accommodation does not suffice for both parties; and payment for +the same is neither demanded nor, except very rarely, tendered. + +[Up the Manacagan.] About six o'clock on the following morning we +started; and about half-past six climbed, by a pleasant path through +the forest, to the ridge of the Manacagan, which consists of trachytic +hornblende; and about seven o'clock we crossed two small rivers flowing +north-west, and then, by a curve, reached the coast at Dulag. From the +ridge we caught sight, towards the south, of the great white heaps +of débris of the mountain Danan glimmering through the trees. About +nine o'clock we came through the thickly-wooded crater of the Kasiboi, +and, further south, to some sheds in which the sulphur is smelted. + +[Sulphur.] The raw material obtained from the solfatara is bought in +three classes: firstly, sulphur already melted to crusts; secondly, +sublimated, which contains much condensed water in its interstices; +and thirdly, in the clay, which is divided into the more or less +rich, from which the greatest quantity is obtained. Coconut oil, +which is thrown into flat iron pans holding six arrobas, is added to +the sulphurous clay, in the proportion of six quarts to four arrobas, +and it is melted and continually stirred. The clay which floats on +the surface, now freed from the sulphur, being skimmed off, fresh +sulphurous clay is thrown into the cauldron, and so on. In two or +three hours six arrobas of sulphur, on an average, may be obtained +in this manner from twenty-four arrobas of sulphurous clay, and, +poured into wooden chests, it is moulded into blocks of about four +arrobas. Half the oil employed is recovered by throwing the clay +which has been saturated with it into a frame formed by two narrow +bamboo hurdles, placed at a sharp angle. The oil drops into a sloping +gutter of bamboo which is placed underneath, and from that flows into a +pot. The price of the sulphur at Manila varies between [Prices.] $1.25 +and $4.50 per picul. I saw the frames, full of clay, from which the +oil exuded; but the operation itself I did not, unfortunately, then +witness, and I cannot explain in what manner the oil is added. From +some experiments made on a small scale, therefore under essentially +different conditions, and never with the same material, it appeared +that the oil accelerates the separation of the sulphur, and retards +the access of the air to the sulphur. In these experiments, the sulphur +contained in the bottom of the crucible was always colored black by the +separation of charcoal from the oil, and it was necessary to purify it +by distillation beforehand. Of this, however, the smelters at Leyte +made no mention, and they even had no apparatus for the purpose, +while their sulphur was of a pure yellow color. + +[Hot spring.] Some hundreds of paces further south, a hot spring +(50° R.), [192] twelve feet broad, flows from the east, depositing +silicious sinter at its edges. + +[A solfatara.] As we followed a ravine stretching from north to south, +with sides one hundred to two hundred feet in height, the vegetation +gradually ceased, the rock being of a dazzling white, or colored by +sublimated sulphur. In numerous places thick clouds of vapor burst from +the ground, with a strong smell of sulphurated water. At some thousand +paces further, the ravine bends round to the left (east), and expands +itself to the bay; and here numerous silicious springs break through +the loose clay-earth, which is permeated with sulphur. This solfatara +must formerly have been much more active than it is now. The ravine, +which has been formed by its destruction of the rock, and is full +of lofty heaps of débris, may be one thousand feet in breadth, and +quite five times as long. At the east end there are a number of small, +boiling quagmires, which, on forcing a stick into the matted ground, +send forth water and steam. In some deep spots further west, grey, +white, red, and yellow clays have been deposited in small beds over +each other, giving them the appearance of variegated marls. + +[Petrifying water] To the south, right opposite to the ridge which +leads to Burauen, may be seen a basin twenty-five feet broad, in a +cavern in the white decomposed rock, from which a petrifying water +containing silicious acid flows abundantly. The roof of the cavern is +hung with stalactites, which either are covered with solid sulphur, +or consist entirely of that substance. + +[Danan solfatara.] On the upper slope of the Danan mountain, near +to the summit, so much sulphur is deposited by the vapors from the +sulphurated water that it may be collected with coconut shells. In +some crevices, which are protected against the cooling effects of +the atmospheric air, it melts together in thick, brown crusts. The +solfatara of Danan is situated exactly south of that below, at +the end of the ravine of the Kasiboi. The clay earth, from which +the silicic acid has been washed out by the rains, is carried into +the valley, where it forms a plain, the greater part of which is +occupied by a small lake, Malaksan (sour), slightly impregnated with +sulphuric acid. Its surface, which, by reason of the very flat banks, +is protected against the weather, I found to be about five hundred +paces long and one hundred broad. From the elevation of the solfatara, +a rather large fresh-water lake, surrounded by wooded mountains, is +seen through a gap, exactly south, which is named Jaruanan. The night +was passed in a ruined shed at the south-east of the lake Malaksan; +and on the following morning we climbed the south side of the mountain +ridge and, skirting the solfatara of the Danan, arrived in an hour +and a half at lake Jaruanan. + +[Jaruanan Lake.] This lake, as well as the Malaksan, inspires +the natives with superstitious fear on account of the suspicious +neighborhood of the solfatara, and therefore has not been profaned by +either mariner, fisher, or swimmer, and was very full of fish. For the +purpose of measuring its depth, I had a raft of bamboos constructed; +and when my companions saw me floating safely on the lake, they +all, without exception, sprang into it, and tumbled about in the +water with infinite delight and loud outcries, as if they wished +to indemnify themselves for their long abstinence; so that the raft +was not ready before three o'clock. The soundings at the centre of +the basin, which was, at the southern edge, steeper than on the +north, gave thirteen brazas, or over twenty-one meters of depth; +the greatest length of the lake amounted to nearly eight hundred +varas (six hundred and sixty-eight meters), and the breadth to about +half as much. As we returned in the evening, by torchlight, over the +crest of the mountain to our night-quarters at the lake, we passed +by the very modest dwelling-place of a married pair. Three branches, +projecting outwards from the principal trunk of a tree, and lopped at +equal points, sustained a hut of bamboos and palm-leaves of eight feet +square. A hole in the floor formed the entrance, and it was divided +into a chamber and ante-chamber, and four bamboo poles supported, +above and below, two layers of bamboos, one of which furnished a +balcony, and the other a shop in which betel was sold. + +[To Dulag.] The day after my return to Burauen an obliging Spanish +merchant drove me through the fertile plain of volcanic sand, on +which rice, maize, and sugar-cane were cultivated, to Dulag, which +lies directly to the west, on the shore of the tranquil sea. The +distance (according to Coello three leagues) hardly amounts to two +leagues. From this place, Point Guiuan, the south point of Samar, +appears like an island separated from the mainland, and further south +(N. 102° 4' to 103° 65° S.) Jomonjol is seen, the first island of the +Archipelago sighted by Magellan on April 16, 1521. At Dulag, my former +companion joined us in order to accompany us on the journey to the +Bito Lake. The arrangement of transportation and of provisions, and, +still more, the due consideration of all the propositions of three +individuals, each of whose claims were entitled to equal respect, +occupied much time and required some address. We at length sailed +in a large casco (barge) southwards along the coast to the mouth +of the river [Up Mayo River.] Mayo, which, according to the map and +the information there given, is said to come from the Bito Lake. We +proceeded upwards in a boat, but were informed at the first hut that +the lake could be reached only by making a long circuit through swampy +forest; when most of our party proposed to return. Various reasons +besides the want of unanimity in the conduct of our adventure, which +had proceeded thus far, delayed our arrival at Abuyog until eleven +o'clock at night. In the first place, on our way, we had to cross a +small branch of the Mayo, and after that the Bito River. The distance +of the latter from Abuyog (extravagantly set down on Coello's map) +amounts to fourteen hundred brazas, according to the measurement of +the gobernadorcillo, which is probably correct. [193] + +[An unpromising road.] The following day, as it rained heavily, was +employed in making inquiries respecting the road to the Bito Lake. We +received very varied statements as to the distance, but all agreed +in painting the road thither in a discouraging light. A troublesome +journey of at least ten hours appeared to us to be what most probably +awaited us. + +[Bito Lake.] On the morrow, through a pleasant forest road, we reached +in an hour the Bito River, and proceeded in boats, which we met +there, up the river between flat sandy banks covered with tall cane +and reeds. In about ten minutes, some trees fallen right across the +stream compelled us to make a circuit on land, which in half an hour +brought us again to the river, above the obstacles. Here we constructed +rafts of bamboo, upon which, immersed to the depth of half a foot, +the material being very loosely adjusted, we reached the lake in ten +minutes. We found it covered with green confervae; a double border +of pistia and broad-leaved reed grasses, six to seven feet high, +enclosing it all round. On the south and west some low hillocks rose +up, while from the middle it appeared to be almost circular, with a +girdle of forest. Coello makes the lake much too large (four instead +of one square mile), and its distance from Abuyog can be only a little +over a league. With the assistance of a cord of lianas tied together, +and rods placed in a line, we found its breadth five hundred and +eighty-five brazas or nine hundred and seventy-seven meters, (in the +broadest part it might be a little over one thousand meters); and the +length, as computed from some imperfect observations, one thousand +and seven brazas (sixteen hundred and eighty meters), consequently +less than one square mile. Soundings showed a gently inclined basin, +eight brazas, or over thirteen meters, deep in the middle. I would +gladly have determined the proportions with more accuracy; but want of +time, the inaccessibility of the edge of the bank, and the miserable +condition of our raft, allowed of only a few rough measurements. + +[A forest home.] Not a trace of human habitations was observable +on the shore; but a quarter of an hour's distance from the northern +edge we found a comfortable hut, surrounded by deep mud and prickly +calamus, the tenants of which, however, were living in plenty, and +with greater conveniences than many dwellers in the villages. We were +very well received and had fish in abundance, as well as tomatoes, +and capsicum to season them with, and dishes of English earthenware +out of which to eat them. + +[Snaring swine.] The abundance of wild swine had led the settlers +to invent a peculiar contrivance, by which they are apprised of +their approach even when asleep, and guided to their trail in the +darkness. A rope made of strips of banana tied together, and upwards +of a thousand feet in length, is extended along the ground, one end +of which is attached to a coconut shell, full of water, which is +suspended immediately over the sleeping-place of the hunter. When a +pig comes in contact with the rope, the water is overturned by the +jerk upon the sleeper, who, seizing the rope in his hand, is thereby +conducted to his prey. The principal employment of our hosts appeared +to be fishing, which is so productive that the roughest apparatus +is sufficient. There was not a single boat, but only loosely-bound +rafts of bamboo, on which the fishers, sinking, as we ourselves did +on our raft, half a foot deep, moved about amongst the crocodiles, +which I never beheld in such numbers and of so large a size as in +this lake. Some swam about on the surface with their backs projecting +out of the water. It was striking to see the complete indifference +with which even two little girls waded in the water in the face of +the great monsters. Fortunately the latter appeared to be satisfied +with their ample rations of fish. Four kinds of fish are said to be +found in the lake, amongst them an eel; but we got only one. [194] + +[A secret still.] Early on the following morning our native attendants +were already intoxicated. This led to the discovery of another +occupation of the settlers, which I do not hesitate to disclose +now that the Government monopoly has been abolished. They secretly +distilled palm-brandy and carried on a considerable trade in it; and +this also explained to me why the horrors of the road to the Mayo River +and to Abuyog had been painted in such warm colors. [195] We returned +on our rafts to the place where we had found them, a distance of +about fifteen hundred feet; and onwards, through wild cane with large +clusters of flowers (Saccharum sp.), sixteen feet high, east by north, +we got to our boats, and then to the bar, whence, after a march of an +hour and a half, we reached Abuyog. From Abuyog we returned by water to +Dulag, and by land to Burauen, where we arrived at night, sooner than +our hostlers had expected, for we caught them sleeping in our beds. + +[Tobacco prohibition.] Not long ago much tobacco was cultivated in this +country, and was allowed to be sold to the peasantry under certain +conditions; but recently it was forbidden to be sold, except by the +Government, who themselves determined its value at so very low a rate +that the culture of tobacco has almost entirely ceased. As the tobacco +company, however, had already erected stores and appointed collectors, +the knowing ones rightly foresaw that these steps would be followed by +compulsory labor, even as it occurred in other places. The east coast +of Leyte is said to be rising while the west is being destroyed by the +sea, and at Ormog the sea is said to have advanced about fifty ells +[196] in six years. + + + +CHAPTER XXII + + +[The Bisayans.] The Bisayans--at least the inhabitants of the +Islands of Samar and Leyte (I have not become closely acquainted +with any others)--belong to one race. [197] They are, physically and +intellectually, in character, dress, manners and customs, so similar +that my notes, which were originally made at different points of +the two Islands, have, after removal of the numerous repetitions, +fused into one, which affords a more complete picture, and affords, +at the same time, opportunity for the small differences, where they +do occur, to stand out more conspicuously. + +[Mountaineers.] There are no Negritos either in Samar or Leyte, but +Cimarronese, who pay no tribute, and who do not live in villages, +but independently in the forests. Unfortunately I have had no personal +intercourse with them, and what I have learned respecting them from the +Christian inhabitants of Samar is too uncertain to be repeated. But it +does seem certain that all these Cimarronese or their ancestors have +traded with the Spaniards, and that their religion has appropriated +many Catholic forms. Thus, when planting rice, and, according to +ancient practices, setting apart some of the seed to be offered in +the four corners of the field as sacrifice, they are accustomed to +repeat some mutilated Catholic prayers, which they appear to consider +as efficacious as their old heathenish ones. Some have their children +baptized as well, as it costs nothing; but, save in these respects, +they perform no other Christian or civil obligations. They are very +peaceable, neither making war with one another, nor having poisoned +arrows. Instances of Cimarronese, who go over to Christianity and +village life, together with tribute and servitude, are very rare; +and the number of the civilized, who return to the forests in order +to become Cimarronese, is, on the other hand, very inconsiderable +indeed--still smaller than in Luzon, as the natives, from the dull, +almost vegetating life which they lead, are not easily brought into +such straitened circumstances as to be compelled to leave their +village, which, still more than in Luzon, is all the world to them. + +[Rice-farming.] The culture of rice follows the seasons of the year. In +some places where there are large fields the plough (arado) and the +sod-sod (here called surod) are employed; but, almost universally, the +rice-field is only trodden over by carabaos in the rainy season. Sowing +is done on the west coast in May and June, planting in July and August, +and reaping from November to January. One ganta of seed-corn gives two, +sometimes from three to four, cabanes (i.e., fifty, seventy-five, +and a hundred fold). In the chief town, Catbalogan, there are but +very few irrigated fields (tubigan, from tubig, water), the produce +of which does not suffice for the requirements, and the deficiency +is made up from other places on the coasts of the Island. On the +other hand, Catbalogan produces abaca, coconut oil, wax, balate +(edible holothuria, sea cucumber), dried fish, and woven stuffs. On +the north and east coasts sowing takes place from November to January, +and reaping six months later. During the remaining six months the field +serves as pasture for the cattle; but in many places rice culture goes +on even during these months, but on other fields. A large portion of +this rice is frequently lost on account of the bad weather. + +[Land tenure.] Purchases of land are seldom made, it being generally +acquired by cultivation, by inheritance, or forfeiture. In Catbalogan +the best rice land was paid for at the rate of one dollar for a ganta +of seed-corn, and, on the north coast of Lauang, a field producing +yearly one hundred cabanes was purchased for thirty dollars. Reckoning, +as in Naga, one ganta of seed-corn at four loanes, and seventy-five +cabanes of produce at one quiñon, the eastern rice land costs, in +the first instance, three thalers and a third, in the second three +thalers. The owner lets the bare property out on leases, and receives +one-half the harvest as rent. [198] The cultivation of rice in Leyte +is conducted as in Samar, but it has given way to the cultivation of +abacá; the governors, while they were allowed to trade, compelled +the natives to devote a part of their fields and of their labor to +it. Should a peasant be in arrears, it is the prevalent custom in +the country for him to pay to the dealer double the balance remaining +due at the next harvest. + +[Mountain rice.] Mountain-rice culture, which in Catbalogan is almost +the only cultivation, requires no other implement of agriculture +than the bolo to loosen the soil somewhat, and a sharp stick for +making holes at distances of six inches for the reception of five or +six grains of rice. Sowing is done from May to June, weeding twice, +and five months later it is cut stalk by stalk; the reaper receiving +half a real daily wages and food. The produce is between two and three +cabanes per ganta, or fifty to seventy fold. The land costs nothing, +and wages amount to nearly five reals per ganta of seed-corn. After a +good harvest the caban fetches four reales; but just before the harvest +the price rises to one dollar, and often much higher. The ground is +used only once for dry rice; camote (batata), abacá, and caladium being +planted on it after the harvest. Mountain rice is more remunerative +than watered rice about in the proportion of nine to eight. + +[Other products.] Next to rice the principal articles of sustenance +are camote (convolvulus batatas), ubi (dioscorea), gabi (caladium), +palauan (a large arum, with taper leaves and spotted stalk). Camote +can be planted all the year around, and ripens in four months; but +it takes place generally when the rice culture is over, when little +labor is available. When the cultivation of camote is retained, +the old plants are allowed to multiply their runners, and only the +tubers are taken out of the ground. But larger produce is obtained by +cleaning out the ground and planting anew. From eighteen to fifteen +gantas may be had for half a real. + +[Abacá.] Although there are large plantations of abacá, during my +visit it was but little cultivated, the price not being sufficiently +remunerative. + +[Tobacco.] Tobacco also is cultivated. Formerly it might be sold in +the country, but now it has to be delivered to the government. + +[Balao oil.] A resinous oil (balao or malapajo) is found in Samar +and Albay, probably also in other provinces. It is obtained from a +dipterocarpus (apiton), one of the loftiest trees of the forest, by +cutting in the trunk a wide hole, half a foot deep, hollowed out into +the form of a basin, and from time to time lighting a fire in it, so as +to free the channels, through which it flows, of obstructions. The oil +thus is collected daily and comes into commerce without any further +preparation. Its chief application is in the preservation of iron +in shipbuilding. Nails dipped in the oil of the balao, before being +driven in, will, as I have been assured by credible individuals, +defy the action of rust for ten years; but it is principally used as a +varnish for ships, which are painted with it both within and without, +and it also protects wood against termites and other insects. The +balao is sold in Albay at four reals for the tinaja of ten gantas (the +liter at eight pence). A cement formed by the mixture of burnt lime, +gum elemi, and coconut oil, in such proportions as to form a thick +paste before application, is used for the protection of the bottoms +of ships; and the coating is said to last a year. [199] [Wax.] Wax +is bartered by the Cimarronese. The whole of Samar annually yields +from two hundred to three hundred piculs, whose value ranges between +twenty-five and fifty dollars per picul, while in Manila the price +is generally five to ten dollars higher; but it fluctuates very much, +as the same product is brought from many other localities and at very +irregular intervals of time. + +[Scarcity of stock.] There is hardly any breeding of cattle, +notwithstanding the luxuriant growth of grasses and the absence of +destructive animals. Horses and carabao are very rare, and are said +to have been introduced late, not before the present century. As in +Samar there are hardly any other country roads than the seashore and +the shallow beds of rivers (it is better in the north of Leyte), +the carabao is used only once every year in treading over the +earth of the rice-field. During the year he roams at large on the +pastures, in the forest, or on a small island, where such exists, +in the neighborhood. Some times in the year one may see several +carabaos, attached to the large trunk of a tree, dragging it to the +village. Their number, consequently, is extremely small. Carabaos +which tread the rice land well are worth as much as ten dollars. The +mean price is three dollars for a carabao, and five to six dollars +for a caraballa. Horned cattle are only occasionally used as victims +at festivals. The property of several owners, they are very limited in +number, and live half-wild in the mountains. There is hardly any trade +in them, but the average price is three dollars for a heifer, and five +or six dollars for a cow. [Swine.] Almost every family possesses a pig; +some, three or four of them. A fat pig costs six or seven dollars, +even more than a cow. Many Filipino tribes abstain strictly from beef; +but pork is essential to their feasts. Grease, too, is so dear that +from three to four dollars would, under favorable circumstances, +be got on that account for a fat animal. [Sheep and goats.] Sheep +and goats thrive well, and propagate easily, but also exist only in +small numbers, and are hardly utilized either for their wool or their +flesh. Creoles and mestizos are for the most part too idle even to +keep sheep, preferring daily to eat chicken. The sheep of Shanghai, +imported by the governor of Tacloban, also thrive and propagate +famously. [Poultry.] A laying hen costs half a real, a rooster the +same, and a game cock as much as three dollars, often considerably +more. Six or eight hens, or thirty eggs, may be bought for one real. + +[Cost of food.] A family consisting of father, mother, and five +children requires daily nearly twenty-four chupas of palay (rice in +the husk), which, after winnowing, comes to about twelve chupas. This +at the average price of four reals per cavan costs about half a +real. The price, however, varies. Sometimes, after the harvest, it +is three reals per cavan; before it, ten; and in Albay, even about +thirty reals. Then about three cuartos are wanted for extras (as fish, +crabs, vegetables, etc.), which, however, are generally collected +by the children; and, lastly, for oil two cuartos, buyo one cuarto, +tobacco three cuartos (three leaves for one cuarto), the latter being +smoked, not chewed. A woman consumes half as much buyo and tobacco +as a man. Buyo and tobacco are less used in Leyte than in Samar. + +[Clothing cost.] For clothing a man requires yearly--four rough +shirts of guinara, costing from one to two reals; three or four pairs +of trousers, at one to two and a half reals; two kerchiefs for the +head, at one and a half real (hats are not worn on the south and west +coasts), and for the church festivals generally one pair of shoes, +seven reals; one fine shirt, a dollar or more; and fine pantaloons, +at four reals. A woman requires--four to six camisas of guinara, +at one real; two to three sayas of guinara, at three to four reals, +and one or two sayas of European printed cotton, at five reals; two +head-kerchiefs at one and a half to two reals; and one or two pairs +of slippers (chinelas) to go to mass in, at two reals and upwards. + +[Women's extras.] The women generally have, besides, a fine camisa +costing at least six reals; a mantilla for churchgoing, six reals +(it lasts four years); and a comb, two cuartos. Many also have under +skirts (nabuas), two pieces at four reals, and earrings of brass +and a rosary, which last articles are purchased once for all. In the +poorer localities, Lauang for instance, only the home-woven guinaras +are worn; and there a man requires--three shirts and three pairs of +trousers, which are cut out of three pieces of guinara, at two reals, +and a salacot (hat), generally home made, worth half a real; while a +woman uses yearly--four sayas, value six reals; and a camisa, with a +finer one for the festivals, eight reals. Underskirts are not worn; +and the clothing of the children may be estimated at about half of +the above rates. + +[Household furniture.] For household furniture a family has a cooking +pot [200] of unglazed burnt clay, imported by ships from Manila, the +cost of which is fixed by the value of its contents in rice; a supply +of bamboo-canes; seven plates, costing between two and five cuartos; +a carahai (iron pan), three to four reals; coconut shells serving +for glasses; a few small pots, altogether half a real; a sundang, +four to six reals, or a bolo (large forest knife), one dollar; and +a pair of scissors (for the women), two reals. The loom, which every +household constructs for itself of bamboo of course costs nothing. + +[Wages.] The rate of daily wages, in the case of Filipino employers, +is half a real, without food; but Europeans always have to give +one real and food, unless, by favor of the gobernadorcillo, they +get polistas at the former rate, which then regularly goes into the +public coffers. An ordinary carpenter earns from one to two reals; +a skilful man, three reals daily. The hours of work are from six to +noon, and from two to six in the evening. + +[Industries.] Almost every village has a rude smith, who understands +the making of sundangs and bolos; but the iron and the coal required +for the purpose must be supplied with the order. No other work in +metal is executed. With the exception of a little ship-building, +hardly any other pursuit than weaving is carried on; the loom is +rarely wanting in a household. Guinara, i.e., stuff made of the abacá, +is manufactured, as well as also some piña, or figured silk stuffs, +the silk being brought from Manila, and of Chinese origin. All these +fabrics are made in private homes; there are no factories. + +[Barter.] In places where rice is scarce the lower class of people +catch fish, salt and dry them, and barter them for rice. In the +chief towns purchases are made with the current money; but, in the +interior, where there is hardly any money, fabrics and dried fish are +the most usual means of exchange. Salt is obtained by evaporating +the seawater in small iron hand-pans (carahais), without previous +evaporation in the sun. The navigation between Catbalogan and Manila +continues from December to July, and in the interval between those +months the ships lie dismantled under sheds. [Communication.] There +also is communication by the coast eastwards to Guian, northwards +to Catarman, and sometimes to Lauang. The crews consist partly of +natives, and partly of foreigners, as the natives take to the sea +with great reluctance; indeed, almost only when compelled to leave +their villages. Samar has scarcely any other means of communication +besides the navigation of the coast and rivers, the interior being +roadless; and burdens have to be conveyed on the shoulders. An +able-bodied porter, who receives a real and a half without food, +will carry three arrobas (seventy-five pounds at most) six leagues in +a day, but he cannot accomplish the same work on the following day, +requiring at least one day's rest. A strong man will carry an arroba +and a half daily for a distance of six leagues for a whole week. + +[No markets.] There are no markets in Samar and Leyte; so that whoever +wishes to buy seeks what he requires in the houses, and in like manner +the seller offers his goods. + +[Debts.] A Filipino seeking to borrow money has to give ample security +and pay interest at the rate of one real for every dollar per month +(twelve and one-half per cent. monthly); and it is not easy for +him to borrow more than five dollars, for which sum only he is +legally liable. Trade and credit are less developed in eastern and +northern Samar than in the western part of the island, which keeps +up a more active communication with the other inhabitants of the +Archipelago. There current money is rarely lent, but only its value +in goods is advanced at the rate of a real per dollar per mensem. If +the debtor fails to pay within the time appointed, he frequently +has to part with one of his children, who is obliged to serve the +lender for his bare food, without wages, until the debt has been +extinguished. I saw a young man who had so served for the term of +five years, in liquidation of a debt of five dollars which his father, +who had formerly been a gobernadorcillo in Paranas, owed to a mestizo +in Catbalogan; and on the east coast a pretty young girl, who, for +a debt of three dollars due by her father, had then, for two years, +served a native, who had the reputation of being a spendthrift. I was +shown in Borongan a coconut plantation of three hundred trees, which +was pledged for a debt of ten dollars about twenty years ago, since +which period it had been used by the creditor as his own property; +and it was only a few years since that, upon the death of the debtor, +his children succeeded, with great difficulty, in paying the original +debt and redeeming the property. It is no uncommon thing for a native +to borrow two dollars and a half from another in order to purchase +his exemption from the forty days of annual service, and then, +failing to repay the loan punctually, to serve his creditor for a +whole year. [201] + +[People of Samar and Leyte.] The inhabitants of Samar and Leyte, +who are at once idler and filthier than those of Luzon, seem to be +as much behind the Bicols as the latter are behind the Tagalogs. In +Tacloban, where a more active intercourse with Manila exists, these +qualities are less pronounced, and the women, who are agreeable, +bathe frequently. For the rest, the inhabitants of the two islands +are friendly, obliging, tractable, and peaceable. Abusive language or +violence very rarely occurs, and, in case of injury, information is +laid against the offender at the tribunal. Great purity of manners +seems to prevail on the north and west coasts, but not on the east +coast, nor in Leyte. External piety is universally conspicuous, through +the training imparted by the priests; the families are very united, +and great influence is wielded by the women, who are principally +engaged in household employments, and are tolerably skilful in weaving, +and to whom only the lighter labors of the field are assigned. The +authority of the parents and of the eldest brother is supreme, the +younger sisters never venturing to oppose it; women and children are +kindly treated. + +[Leyte.] The natives of Leyte, clinging as strongly to their native +soil as those of Samar, like them, have no partiality for the sea, +though their antipathy to it is not quite so manifest as that of the +inhabitants of Samar. [202] + +[Public charity not accepted.] There are no benevolent institutions +in either of the two islands. Each family maintains its own poor +and crippled, and treats them tenderly. In Catbalogan, the chief +town of the island, with five to six thousand inhabitants, there +were only eight recipients of charity; but in Albay mendicants are +not wanting. In Lauang, when a Spaniard, on a solemn festival, had +caused it to be proclaimed that he would distribute rice to the poor, +not a single applicant came forward. The honesty of the inhabitants of +Samar is much commended. Obligations are said to be contracted almost +always without written documents, and never forsworn, even if they +make default in payment. Robberies are of rare occurrence in Samar, +and thefts almost unknown. There are schools also here in the pueblos, +which accomplish quite as much as they do in Camarines. + +[Amusements.] Of the public amusements cock-fighting is the chief, +but it is not so eagerly pursued as in Luzon. At the church festivals +they perform a drama translated from the Spanish, generally of +a religious character; and the expense of the entertainment is +defrayed by voluntary contributions of the wealthy. The chief vices +of the population are play and drunkenness; in which latter even +women and young girls occasionally indulge. The marriage feasts, +combining song and dance, often continue for several days and +nights together, where they have a sufficient supply of food and +drink. [Suitor's service.] The suitor has to serve in the house +of the bride's parents two, three, and even five years, before he +takes his bride home; and money cannot purchase exemption from this +onerous restriction. He boards in the house of the bride's parents +who furnish the rice, but he has to supply the vegetables himself. +[203] At the expiration of his term of service he builds, with the +assistance of his relations and friends, the house for the family +which is about to be newly established. + +[Morals.] Though adultery is not unknown, jealousy is rare, and +never leads to violence. The injured individual generally goes with +the culprit to the minister, who, with a severe lecture to one, +and words of consolation to the other, sets everything straight +again. Married women are more easily accessible than girls, whose +prospect of marriage, however, it seems is not greatly diminished +by a false step during single life. While under parental authority +girls, as a rule, are kept under rigid control, doubtless in order +to prolong the time of servitude of the suitor. External appearance +is more strictly regarded among the Bisayans than by the Bicols and +Tagalogs. Here also the erroneous opinion prevails, that the number of +the women exceeds that of the men. Instances occur of girls of twelve +being mothers; but they are rare; and though women bear twelve or +thirteen children, many of these, however, do not live. [Great infant +mortality.] So much so is this the case, that families of more than +six or eight children are very rarely met with. + +[Superstitions.] Superstition is rife. Besides the little church images +of the Virgin, which every Filipina wears by a string round the neck, +many also have heathen amulets, of which I had an opportunity of +examining one that had been taken from a very daring criminal. It +consisted of a small ounce flask, stuffed full of vegetable root +fibres, which appeared to have been fried in oil. This flask, which is +prepared by the heathen tribes, is accredited with the virtue of making +its owner strong and courageous. The capture of this individual was +very difficult; but, as soon as the little flask was taken from him, +he gave up all resistance, and allowed himself to be bound. In almost +every large village there are one or more [Ghouls.] Asuang families who +are generally dreaded and avoided, and regarded as outlaws, and who +can marry only amongst themselves. They have the reputation of being +cannibals. [204] Perhaps they are descended from such tribes? At any +rate, the belief is very general and firmly rooted; and intelligent +old natives when questioned by me on the subject, answered that they +certainly did not believe that the Asuangs ate men at the present time, +but that their forefathers had assuredly done so. [205] + +[Ancient Literature.] Of ancient legends, traditions, or ballads, +it is stated that there are none. It is true they have songs at their +dances, but these are spiritless improvisations, and mostly in a high +key. They have not preserved any memorials of former civilization. "The +ancient Pintados possessed no temples, every one performing his +anitos in his own house, without any special solemnity"--(Morga, +f. 145 v). Pigafetta (p. 92) certainly mentions that the King of Cebu, +after his conversion to Christianity, caused many temples built on the +seashore to be destroyed; but these might only have been structures of +a very perishable kind. [Festivals and shrines.] On certain occasions +the Bisayans celebrated a great festival, called Pandot, at which +they worshipped their gods in huts, which were expressly built for the +purpose, covered with foliage, and adorned with flowers and lamps. They +called these huts simba or simbahan (the churches are so called to the +present day), "and this is the only thing which they have similar to a +church or a temple"--(Informe, I., i., 17). According to Gemelli Careri +they prayed to some particular gods, derived from their forefathers, +who are called by the Bisayans Davata (Divata), and by the Tagalogs +Anito; one anito being for the sea and another for the house, to +watch over the children. [206] [Ancestor worship.] In the number of +these anitos they placed their grandfathers and great-grandfathers, +whom they invoked in all their necessities, and in whose honor they +preserved little statues of stone, wood, gold, and ivory, which they +called liche or laravan. Amongst their gods they also reckoned all +who perished by the sword, or were killed by lightning, or devoured +by crocodiles, believing that their souls ascended to heaven on a +bow which they called balangas. Pigafetta thus describes the idols +which were seen by him:--"They are of wood, and concave, or hollow, +without any hind quarters, with their arms extended, and their legs +and feet bent upwards. They have very large faces, with four powerful +teeth like boars' tusks, and are painted all over." [207] + +In conclusion, let me take a brief account of the religion of the +ancient Bisayans from Fr. Gaspar San Agustin (Conquest, 169): + +[Old religion.] The daemon, or genius, to whom they sacrificed was +called by them Divata, which appears to denote an antithesis to the +Deity, and a rebel against him. Hell was called Solad, and Heaven +(in the language of the educated people) Ologan * * * The souls of +the departed go to a mountain in the province of Oton, [208] called +Medias, where they are well entertained and served. The creation of +the universe is thus explained. [Creation myth.] A vulture hovering +between heaven and earth finds no place to settle himself upon, +and the water rises towards heaven; whereupon Heaven, in its wrath, +creates islands. The vulture splits a bamboo, out of which spring man +and woman, who beget many children, and, when their number becomes +too great, drive them out with blows. Some conceal themselves in the +chamber, and these become the Datos; others in the kitchen, and these +become the slaves. The rest go down the stairs and become the people. + + +CHAPTER XXIII + + +[Ports of entry.] In 1830 seven new ports were opened as an experiment, +but, owing to great frauds in the charges, were soon afterwards +closed again. In 1831 a custom-house was established at Zamboanga, +on the south-west point of Mindanao; and in 1855 Sual, in the Gulf +of Lingayen, one of the safest harbors on the west coast of Luzon, +and Iloilo in Panay, were thrown open; and in 1863 Cebu, on the island +of the same name, for the direct communication with foreign countries. + +[Old Zamboanga fort.] Before 1635 the Spaniards had established +a fort at Zamboanga, which, although it certainly could not +wholly prevent the piratical excursions against the colonies, yet +considerably diminished them. [209] Until 1848 from eight hundred +to fifteen hundred individuals are stated to have been carried off +yearly by the Moros. [210] The establishment of this custom-house +has, therefore, been based upon political rather than commercial +motives, it being found desirable to open an easily accessible +place to the piratical states of the Sulu Sea for the disposal of +their products. [Exports.] Trade, up to the present date, is but +of very inconsiderable amount, the exports consisting chiefly of a +little coffee (in 1871 nearly six thousand piculs), which, from bad +management, is worth thirty per cent. less than Manila coffee, and of +the collected products of the forest and of the water, such as wax, +birds'-nests, tortoise-shell, pearls, mother-of-pearl, and edible +holothuria. This trade, as well as that with Sulu, is entirely in the +hands of the Chinese, who alone possess the patience, adaptiveness, +and adroitness which are required for the purpose. + +[Sual's foreign trade.] Sual is specially important for its exports +of rice; and its foreign trade is therefore affected by the results of +the harvests in Saigon, Burma, and China. In 1868, when the harvests in +those countries turned out good, Sual carried on only a coasting trade. + +[Cebu.] Cebu (with a population of 34,000) is the chief town of the +island of the same name, the seat of Government and of the bishop of +the Bisayas, and within forty-eight hours from Manila by steamer. It +is as favorably situated with regard to the eatern portion of the +Bisayan group as Iloilo is for the western, and is acquiring increased +importance as the emporium for its products. Sugar and tobacco are +obtained from Bohol; rice from Panay; abacá from Leyte and Mindanao; +and coffee, wax, Spanish cane, and mother-of-pearl from Misamis +(Mindanao). Its distance from Samar is twenty-six, from Leyte two +and a half, from Bohol four, and from Negros eighteen miles. + +[Cebu island.] The island of Cebu extends over seventy-five square +miles. A lofty mountain range traverses it from north to south, +dividing the east from the west side, and its population is +estimated at 340,000,--4,533 to the square mile. The inhabitants +are peaceable and docile; thefts occur very seldom, and robberies +never. Their occupations are agriculture, fishing, and weaving for +home consumption. Cebu produces sugar, tobacco, maize, rice, etc., +and in the mountains potatoes; but the rice produced does not suffice +for their requirements, there being only a little level land, and +the deficiency is imported from Panay. + +[Land tenure.] The island possesses considerable beds of coal, the +full yield of which may now be looked for, as the duty on export was +abandoned by a decree of the 5th of May, 1869. [211] While in Luzon +and Panay the land is for the most part the property of the peasantry, +in Cebu it mostly belongs to the mestizos, and is let out by them, +in very small allotments, upon lease. The owners of the soil know how +to keep the peasants in a state of dependence by usurious loans; and +one of the results of this abuse is that agriculture in this island +stands lower than in almost any other part of the archipelago. [212] +[Customhouse data.] The entire value of the exports in 1868 amounted +to $1,181,050; of which sugar to the value of $481,127, and abacá to +the value of $378,256; went to England, abacá amounting to $112,000 +to America, and tobacco to $118,260 to Spain. The imports of foreign +goods, mostly by the Chinese, come through Manila, where they +purchase from the foreign import houses. The value of these imports +amounted in 1868 to $182,522; of which $150,000 were for English +cotton stuffs. The entire imports of the island were estimated at +$1,243,582, and the exports at $226,898. Among the importations +were twenty chests of images, a sign of the deeply-rooted worship +of the Virgin. Formerly the products for exportation were bought up +by the foreign merchants, mostly Chinese mestizos; but now they are +bought direct from the producers, who thus obtain better prices in +consequence of the abolition of the high brokerages. To this and to +the energy of the foreign merchants, under favorable circumstances, +is the gradual improvement of agriculture principally to be ascribed. + +[Iloilo.] Iloilo is the most important of the newly opened ports, +being the central point of the Bisayan group, and situated in one +of the most thickly populated and industrious provinces. Nicholas +Loney [213] estimates the export of goods woven from the fiber of +the piña, from Iloilo, and the neighboring provinces, at about one +million dollars annually. The harbor is excellent, being completely +protected by an island which lies immediately before it; and at high +tide there is about twelve feet of water close in shore for vessels +to lie in. On account of the bar, however, ships of a deeper draught +than this are obliged to complete their loading outside. Previous +to the opening of the new harbors, all the provinces were compelled +as well to bring their products intended for exportation to Manila, +as to receive from the same place their foreign imports; the cost +of which therefore was greatly increased through the extra expenses +incurred by the double voyage, reloading, brokerage, and wharfage +charges. According to a written account by N. Loney, it is shown how +profitable, even after a few years, the opening of Iloilo has been to +the provinces immediately adjoining--the islands of Panay and Negros. + +[Sugar.] The higher prices which can be obtained for directly +exported sugar, combined with the facility and security of the +trade as contrasted with the late monopoly enjoyed by Manila, have +occasioned a great extension of the cultivation of that article. Not +only in Iloilo, but also in Antique and Negros, many new plantations +have arisen, and the old ones have been enlarged as much as possible; +and not less important has been the progress in the manufacture. In +1857 there was not one iron mill to be found on the island; so that, +in working with the wooden mill, about thirty per cent. of the sap +remained in the cane, even after it had thrice passed through. The +old wooden presses, which were worked by steam or carabaos, have now +been supplanted by new ones; and these the native planters have no +difficulty in obtaining, as they can get them on credit from the +warehouses of the English importers. Instead of the old Chinese +cast-iron pans which were in use, far superior articles have been +imported from Europe; and many large factories worked by steam-power +and with all modern improvements have been established. In agriculture, +likewise, creditable progress is noticeable. Improved ploughs, carts, +and farming implements generally, are to be had in plenty. These +changes naturally show how important it was to establish at different +points, extending over two hundred miles of the Archipelago, commercial +centers, where it was desirable that foreigners should settle. Without +these latter, and the facilities afforded to credit which thereby +ensued, the sudden rise and prosperity of Iloilo would not have been +possible, inasmuch as the mercantile houses in that capital would have +been debarred from trading with unknown planters in distant provinces, +otherwise than for ready money. A large number of half-castes, too, +who before traded in manufactured goods purchased in Manila, were +enabled after this to send their goods direct to the provinces, to the +foreign firms settled there; and as, ultimately, neither these latter +nor the Chinese retail dealers could successfully compete with them, +the result has been that, as much to their own profit as to that of the +country, they have betaken themselves to the cultivation of sugar. In +this manner important plantations have been established in Negros, +which are managed by natives of Iloilo: but there is a scarcity of +laborers on the island. + +[Land disputes.] Foreigners now can legally acquire property, and +possess a marketable title; in which respect the law, until a very +recent period, was of an extremely uncertain nature. Land is to be +obtained by purchase, or, when not already taken up, by "denuncia" +(i.e. priority of claim). In such case, the would-be possessor of +the land must enter into an undertaking in the nearest of the native +Courts to cultivate and keep the said land in a fit and serviceable +condition. Should no other claim be put in, notice is thereupon given +of the grant, and the magistrate or alcalde concludes the compact +without other cost than the usual stamp duty. + +[Lack of capital for large plantations.] Many mestizos and natives, +not having the necessary capital to carry on a large plantation +successfully, sell the fields which they have already partially +cultivated to European capitalists, who are thus relieved of all the +preliminary tedious work. Evidently the Colonial Government is now +sincerely disposed to favor the laying out of large plantations. + +[Lack of roads.] The want of good roads is particularly felt: but, with +the increase of agriculture, this defect will naturally be remedied; +and, moreover, most of the sugar factories are situated on rivers which +are unnavigable even by flat freight boats. The value of land in many +parts of the country has doubled within the last ten years. [214] + +[Sugar prices.] Up to 1854 the picul of sugar was worth in Iloilo from +$1.05 to $1.25 and seldom over $2.00 in Manila; in 1866, $3.25; and +in 1868, $4.75 to $5.00 in Iloilo. The business in Iloilo therefore +shows an increase of $1.75 per picul. [215] + +[Negros.] At the end of 1856 there were as many as twenty Europeans +established on the island of Negros as sugar planters, besides a +number of mestizos. Some of them were working with steam machinery +and vacuum pans. The general rate of pay is from $2.05 to $3.00 per +month. On some plantations the principle of acsa, i.e. part share, +is in operation. The owner lets out a piece of ground, providing +draught cattle and all necessary ploughing implements, to a native, +who works it, and supplies the mill with the cut cane, receiving as +payment a share, generally a third, of the product. In Negros the +violet cane is cultivated, and in Manila the white (Otaheiti). The +land does not require manuring. On new ground, or what we may term +virgin soil, the cane often grows to a height of thirteen feet. A vast +improvement is to be observed in the mode of dress of the people. Piña +and silk stuffs are beoming quite common. Advance in luxury is always +a favorable sign; according to the increase of requirements, industry +flourishes in proportion. + +[The future sugar market.] As I have already mentioned, +California, Japan, China, and Australia appear designed by nature +to be the principal consumers of the products of the Philippine +Islands. Certainly at present England is the best customer; but +nearly half the account is for sugar, in consequence of their own +custom duties. Sometimes it happens that not more than one-fourth of +the sugar crop is sufficiently refined to compete in the Australian +and Californian markets with the sorts from Bengal, Java, and the +Mauritius; the remaining three-fourths, if particularly white, must +perforce undertake the long voyage to England, despite the high freight +and certain loss on the voyage of from ten to twelve per cent. through +the leakage of the molasses. The inferior quality of the Philippine +sugar is at once perceived by the English refiners, and is only taxed +at 8s. per cwt., while purer sorts pay 10s. to 12s. [216] + +[A valuable by-product.] In this manner the English customs favor the +inferior qualities of manufactured sugar. The colonial Government +did not allow those engaged in the manufacture of sugar to distil +rum from the molasses until the year 1862. They had, therefore, +little inducement to extract, at a certain expense, a substance the +value on which they were not permitted to realize; but under ordinary +circumstances the distillation of the rum not only covered the cost +of refining, but gave, in addition, a fair margin of profit. + + +CHAPTER XXIV + + +[Manila hemp.] One of the most interesting productions of the island +is Manila hemp. The French, who, however, hardly use it, call it +"Silk-Plant," because of its silky appearance. + +The natives call the fiber bandala, and in commerce (generally +speaking) abacá, just as the plant from which it is obtained. + +[Abacá.] The latter is a wild species of banana growing in the +Philippine Islands, known also as Arbol de Cañamo (hemp-tree), Musa +textilis, Lin. It does not differ in appearance to any great extent +from the edible banana (Musa paradisiaca), one of the most important +plants of the torrid zone, and familiar to us as being one of our +most beautiful hot-house favorites. + +[Undetermined plant relations.] Whether this and the "musae" +(M. troglodytarum, M. sylvestris, and others), frequently known, +too, as M. textilis, are of the same species, has not yet been +determined. The species Musaceae are herbaceous plants only. The +outer stem consists of crescent-shaped petioles crossing one another +alternately, and encircling the thin main stem. These petioles contain +a quantity of bast fiber, which is used as string, but otherwise is +of no commercial value. The serviceable hemp fiber has, up to the +present time, been exclusively obtained from the southern portion of +the Philippines. + +[Abacá districts.] The southern Camarines and Albay are favorably +adapted for the cultivation of this plant, as are also the islands +of Samar and Leyte, and the adjacent islands; and Cebu likewise, +although a portion of the so-called "Cebu hemp" comes from Mindanao. In +Negros the bast-banana thrives only in the south, not in the north; +and Iloilo, which produces most of the hemp cloth (guinara), is +obliged to import the raw material from the eastern district, as it +does not flourish in the island of Panay. In Capiz, it is true, some +abacá may be noticed growing, but it is of trifling value. Hitherto +all attempts, strenuous though the efforts were, to acclimatize the +growth of hemp in the western and northern provinces have failed. The +plants rarely grow as high as two feet, and the trouble and expense +are simply unremunerative. This failure may be accounted for by the +extreme dryness prevailing during many months of the year, whereas +in the eastern provinces plentiful showers fall the whole year round. + +[Peculiar to the Philippines.] The great profit which the Manila +hemp has yielded in the few years since its production, however, has +given encouragement to still further experiments; so that, indeed, +it will shortly be shown whether the cultivation of abacá is to be +confined to its present limited area, while the edible species of +banana has spread itself over the whole surface of the earth within +the tropics. On the volcanic mountains of Western Java a species +of the Musaceae grows in great luxuriance. The Government has not, +however, made any real effort to cultivate it, and what has been done +in that respect has been effected, up to the present date, by private +enterprise. Various writers have stated that abacá is to be obtained +in the north of the Celebes. Bickmore, however, says positively that +the inhabitants having made great efforts in attempting its successful +cultivation, have abandoned it again in favor of the cultivation of +coffee, which is found to be far more profitable. [217] According to +previous statements, Guadaloupe appears to be able to produce abacá +(fiber of the M. textilis?); [218] and Pondicherry and Guadaloupe +have produced fabrics woven from abacá, and French Guiana stuffs +from the fiber of the edible banana; [219] all these, however, are +only experiments. + +[Superiority of fiber.] Royle affirms that the Manila hemp (abacá +fiber) excels the Russian in firmness, lightness, and strength in +tension, as well as in cheapness, and has only the one disadvantage +that ropes made from it become stiff in wet weather. The reason, +however, is found in the manner in which it is spun, and may be +avoided by proper preparation. [220] Through the better preparation +of the raw material in Manila by means of adequate machinery, these +difficulties have been overcome; but abacá no longer has the advantage +of superior cheapness, as the demand has increased much faster than +the supply. During the year 1859 it was worth from £22 to £25 per ton; +in 1868, £45 per ton; while Russian hemp fetched £31 per ton. Thus +in nine years it rose to double its value. + +[Banana varieties.] In Albay there are about twelve varieties +of the best banana cultivated, which are particularly favored by +the qualities of the soil. The cultivation is extremely simple, +and entirely independent of the seasons. The plants thrive best on +the slopes of the volcanic mountains (in which Albay and Camarines +abound), in open spaces of the woods protected by the trees, which +cast their shadows to an extent of about sixty feet. In exposed level +ground they do not thrive so well, and in marshy land not at all. + +[Cultivation.] In the laying out of a new plantation the young shoots +are generally made use of, which sprout so abundantly from the roots +that each individual one soon becomes a perfect plant. In favorable +ground the custom is to allow a distance of about ten feet between +each plant; in poor ground six feet. The only care necessary is +the extermination of the weeds, and clearing away the undergrowth +during the first season; later on, the plants grow so luxuriantly +and strongly that they entirely prevent the growth of anything +else in their vicinity. The protection afforded by the shade of the +trees at this period is no longer required, the young buds finding +sufficient protection against the sun's rays under cover of the +fan-like leaves. Only in exceptional cases, contrary to the usual +practice, are the plants raised from seed. The fruit, when ready, +is cut off and dried, though care must be taken that it is not over +ripe; otherwise the kernels will not germinate. These latter are about +the size of peppercorns; and the extraction of them in the edible +species almost always brings about decay. Two days before sowing, +the kernels are taken out of the fruit, and steeped overnight in +water; on the following day they are dried in a shady place; and on +the third day they are sown in holes an inch deep in fresh, unbroken, +and well-shaded forest ground, allowing six inches distance between +each plant and row. After a year the seedlings, which are then about +two feet high, are planted out, and tended in the same way as the +suckers. [Differences with abacá.] While many of the edible bananas +bear fruit after one year, and a few varieties even after six months, +the abacá plant requires on an average three years to produce its +fiber in a proper condition; when raised from suckers four years; +and raised from year-old seedlings, even under the most favorable +conditions, two years. + +[Cutting.] On the first crop, only one stalk is cut from each bush; +but later on the new branches grow so quickly that they can be cut +every two months. [221] After a few years the plants become so strong +and dense that it is scarcely possible to push through them. Bast is +in its best condition at the time of blossoming; but, when the price +of the fiber happens to stand high in the market, this particular +time is not always waited for. + +[Prejudice against cutting after blossoming.] Plants which have +blossomed cease to be profitable in any way, by reason of the fiber +becoming too weak--a matter of too great nicety for the unpractical +consumers on the other side of the Atlantic to decide upon, and one +in which, despite inquiries and careful inspections, they might be +deceived. There really is no perceptible reason why the fiber should +become weaker through fructification, which simply consists in the fact +of the contents of the vascular cells changing into soluble matter, +and gradually oozing away, the consequence of which is that the cells +of the fiber are not replenished. These, on the contrary, acquire +additional strength with the age of the plant, because the emptied +cells cling so firmly together, by means of a certain resinous deposit, +that it is impossible to obtain them unbroken without a great deal of +trouble. The idea may have erroneously arisen from the circumstance +that, previously to drying, as with hemp, the old plants were picked +out, and allowed to be thrown away, though not without considerably +increasing the rate of pay, which already consumed the greater part +of the general expenses. [222] + +[Extracting the fiber.] In order to obtain the bast, the stalk above +ground is closely pruned and freed from leaves and other encumbrances; +each leaf is then singly divided into strips--a cross incision being +made through the membrane on the inner or concave side, and connected +by means of the pulpy parts (the parenchym) clinging together. In +this manner as much as possible of the clear outer skin only remains +behind. Another method is to strip the bast from the undivided stem. To +effect this the operator makes an oblique incision in the skin of +the under part of the stalk, drawing the knife gradually to the tip, +and stripping off the whole length as broad a piece as possible; and +the operation is repeated as many times as practicable. This method +of handling is more productive than the one previously described; +but, on the other hand, it takes considerably more time, and for +that reason is not often practised. The strips of bast are then drawn +under a knife, the blade of which is three inches broad by six long, +fastened at one end to the extremity of a flexible stick so that it +is suspended perpendicularly over a well-smoothed block, and at the +other end to a handle connected by means of a cord to a treadle, which +can be pressed firmly down, as occasion requires. The workman draws +the bast, without any regard to quality, between the knife and block, +commencing in the middle, and then from side to side. The knife must +be free from notches, or all indentations, according to the direction +of Father Blanco. [223] + +[Laborers' work and wages.] Three hired-men usually get twenty-five +pounds per day. One worker cuts up the stalks, strips off the leaves, +and attends to the supply; the second, frequently a boy, spreads out +the strips; and the third draws them under the knife. A single plant +has been known to yield as much as two pounds of fiber; but the most +favorable average rarely affords more than one pound, and plants grown +in indifferent soil scarcely a sixth of that quantity. The plantations +are worked either by the owner or by day-laborers, who, when the market +prices are very low, take half share of the crop harvested by them. In +these cases an industrious workman may obtain as much as one picul in +a week. During my stay exceptionally low prices ruled--sixteen and +one-half reals per picul undelivered. The workman could, therefore, +in six days earn half the amount, viz., eight and a quarter reals at +a rate of one and three-eighths reals per day. The day's pay at that +time was half a real, and board a quarter of a real, making together +three-quarters of a real. + +[Profit.] + + + By daily pay. Half share. + +The workman therefore earned daily 0.75 r. or 1.375 r. +Wages amounted to per picul 12. 6 r. or 8. 25 r. +Profit of the planters after deduction of the wages 3. 9 r. or 8. 25 r. + + +[Lupis and bandala.] The edges of the petioles, which contain much +finer fiber than the middle parts, are separately divided into strips +an inch wide, and with strong pressure are drawn several times under +the knife. This substance, which is called lupis, is in high request, +being employed in the native weaving; while is chiefly used for ships' +rigging. [224] + +[Grades of Lupis.] Lupis, according to the fineness of the fiber, +is sorted into four classes--first, Binani; second, Totogna; third, +Sogotan; and fourth, Cadaclan. A bundle of these is then taken up in +the left hand, and, while with the right the first three sorts are +inserted between the fingers, the fourth is held between the thumb and +forefinger. This last description is no longer used in fine weaving, +and is therefore sold with bandala. After the fine sorts have been +pounded in a rice-mortar, in order to render the fiber soft and +pliable, they are severally knotted into one another, and converted +into web. + +[Lupis fabrics.] Generally the first sort is worked as woof with the +second as warp, and the third as warp with the second as woof. The +fabrics so woven are nearly as fine as piña fabrics (Nipis de Piña), +and almost equal the best quality of cambric; and, notwithstanding +the many little nodules occasioned by the tangling of the fiber, +which may be discerned on close inspection, are clearer and stouter, +and possess a warmer yellowish tint. [225] As to these last three +qualities--purity, flexibility, and color--they stand in relation to +cambric somewhat as cardboard to tissue-paper. + +[Weaving.] Weaving such fabrics on very simple looms is exceedingly +troublesome as the fibers, which are not spun but twisted, very +frequently break. The finest stuffs require so great an amount of +dexterity, patience, and time in their preparation, and for that reason +are so expensive, that they would find no purchasers in Europe where +there is the competition of cheap, machine-made goods. Their fine, +warm yellowish color also is objected to by the European women, who are +accustomed to linen and calicoes strongly blued in the washing. In the +country, however, high prices are paid for them by the rich mestizos, +who understand the real goodness of their qualities. + +[Bandala fabrics.] The fibers of the inner petioles, which are softer +but not so strong as the outer, are called tupus, and sold with +bandala, or mixed with tapis and used in the native weaving. Bandala +also serves for weaving purposes; and, in that portion of the +Archipelago where the native abacá plantations are, the entire dress +of both sexes is made of coarse guinara. Still coarser and stronger +fabrics are prepared for the European market, such as crinoline and +stiff muslin used by dressmakers. + +[A Pre-Spanish product.] Before the arrival of the Spaniards the +natives wore stuffs from abacá; which became an important article of +export only some few decades since. This is in great measure due to +the enterprising spirit of two American firms, and would not have been +attained without great perseverance and liberal pecuniary assistance. + +[Unbusinesslike early methods.] The plants flourish without any care +or attention, the only trouble being to collect the fiber; and, the +bounteousness of Nature having provided them against want, the natives +shirk even this trouble when the market price is not very enticing. In +general low prices are scarcely to be reckoned on, because of the +utter indifference of the laborers, over whom the traders do not +possess enough influence to keep them at work. Advances to them are +made both in goods and money, which the creditor must repay either +by produce from his own plantation or by giving an equivalent in +labor. [226] As long as the produce stands high in price, everything +goes on pretty smoothly, although even then, through the dishonesty of +the workers and the laziness, extravagance, and mercantile incapacity +of the middlemen, considerable loss frequently ensues. If, however, +prices experience any considerable fall, then the laborers seek in any +and every way to get out of their uncomfortable position, whilst the +percentage of profit secured to the middleman is barely sufficient +to cover the interest on his outlay. Nevertheless, they must still +continue the supplies, inasmuch as they possess no other means of +securing payment of their debt in the future. The laborers, in their +turn, bring bitter complaints against the agents, to the effect that +they are forced to severe labor, unprofitable to themselves, through +their acceptance of advances made to them at most exorbitant rates; and +the agents (generally mestizos or creoles) blame the crafty, greedy, +extortionate foreigners, who shamelessly tempt the lords of the soil +with false promises, and bring about their utter ruin. [Change to a +safer basis.] As a general rule, the "crafty foreigner" experiences +a considerable diminution of his capital. It was just so that one of +the most important firms suffered the loss of a very large sum. At +length, however, the Americans, who had capital invested in this trade, +succeeded in putting an end to the custom of advances, which hitherto +had prevailed, erected stores and presses on their own account, +and bought through their agents direct from the growers. All earlier +efforts tending in this direction had been effectually thwarted by +the Spaniards and creoles, who considered the profits derived from +the country, and especially the inland retail trade, to be their own +by prescriptive right. They are particularly jealous of the foreign +intruders, who enrich themselves at their expense; consequently they +place every obstacle in their way. If it depended upon the will of +these people, all foreigners would be ejected from the country--the +Chinese alone, as workmen (coolies), being allowed to remain. [227] + +[Anti-Chinese feeling.] The same feeling was exhibited by the natives +towards the Chinese, whom they hated for being industrious and +trustworthy workers. All attempts to carry out great undertakings +by means of Chinese labor were frustrated by the native workmen +intimidating them, and driving them away either by open violence or +by secret persecution; and the Colonial authorities were reproached +for not affording suitable protection against these and similar +outrages. That, as a rule, great undertakings did not succeed in the +Philippines, or at least did not yield a profit commensurate with +the outlay and trouble, is a fact beyond dispute, and is solely to +be ascribed to many of the circumstances related above. [Good work +for good pay.] There are those, however, who explain these mishaps +in other ways, and insist upon the fact that the natives work well +enough when they are punctually and sufficiently paid. The Government, +at any rate, appears gradually to have come to the conclusion that +the resources of the country cannot be properly opened up without +the assistance of the capital and enterprise of the [Tardy justice +to foreigners.] foreigners; and, therefore, of late years it has not +in any way interfered with their establishment. In 1869 their right +of establishment was tardily conceded to them by law. + +[Abacá production and prospects.] At this period the prospects of the +abacá cultivation seemed very promising; and since the close of the +American war, which had the effect of causing a considerable fall in +the value of this article in America, the prices have been steadily +increasing. It is stated (on authority) that, in 1840, 136,034 piculs +of abacá, to the value of $397,995 were exported, the value per picul +being reckoned at about $2.09. The rate gradually rose and stood +between four and five dollars--and, during the civil war, reached the +enormous sum of nine dollars per picul--the export of Russian hemp +preventing, however, a further rise. This state of affairs occasioned +the laying out of many new plantations, the produce of which, when +it came on the market, after three years, was valued at $3.50 per +picul, in consequence of the prices having returned to their normal +condition; and even then it paid to take up an existing plantation, +but not to lay out a new one. This rate continued until 1860, since +which time it has gradually risen (only during the American civil +war was there any stoppage), and it now stands once more as high as +during the civil war; and there is no apparent prospect of a fall so +long as the Philippines have no competitors in the trade. In 1865 the +picul in Manila never cost less than $7 which two years previously +was the maximum value; and it rose gradually, until $9.50 was asked +for ordinary qualities. The production in many provinces had reached +the extreme limit; and a further increase, in the former at least, +is impossible, as the work of cultivation occupies the whole of the +male population--an evidence surely that a suitable recompense will +overcome any natural laziness of the natives. [228] + +An examination of the following table will confirm the accuracy of +these views:-- + +[Export of "Manila hemp."] + +Export of Abacá (In Piculs). + +To 1861 1864 1866 1868 1870 1871 + +Great Britain 198,954 226,258 96,000 125,540 131,180 143,498 +North America, +Atlantic Ports 158,610 249,106 280,000 294,728 327,728 285,112 +California 6,600 9,426 -- 14,200 15,900 22,500 +Europe 901 1,134 -- 200 244 640 +Australia 16 5,194 -- 21,244 11,434 6,716 +Singapore 2,648 1,932 -- 3,646 1,202 2,992 +China 5,531 302 -- -- 882 2,294 + +Total 273,260 493,352 406,682 460,588 488,570 463,752 + +Commercial Report +Prussian Consular Report +Belgian Consular Report +English Consular Report +Market Report, T.H. & Co. + + +[Large local consumption.] The consumption in the country is not +contained in the above schedule, and is difficult to ascertain; but +it must certainly be very considerable, as the natives throughout +entire provinces are clothed in guinara, the weaving of which for +the family requirements generally is done at home. + +[Sisal-hemp.] Sisal, also sisal-hemp, or, as it is sometimes known, +Mexican grass, has for some years past been used in the trade in +increasing quantities as a substitute for abacá, which it somewhat +resembles in appearance, though wanting that fine gloss which the +latter possesses. It is somewhat weaker, and costs from £5 to £10 less +per ton; it is only used for ships' rigging. The refuse from it has +been found an extremely useful adjunct to the materials ordinarily +used in the manufacture of paper. The Technologist for July, 1865, +calls attention to the origin of this substitute, in a detailed +essay differing essentially from the representations contained in the +"U. S. Agricultural Report" published at Washington in 1870; and the +growing importance of the article, and the ignorance prevailing abroad +as to its extraction, may render a short account of it acceptable. The +description shows the superior fineness of the abacá fiber, but not +its greater strength. [229] + +[Varieties of sisal.] Sisal-hemp, which is named after the export +harbor of Sisal (in the north-western part of the peninsula), is by +far the most important product of Yucatan; and this rocky, sun-burnt +country seems peculiarly adapted to the growth of the fiber. In Yucatan +the fiber is known as jenequem, as indeed the plant is obtained from +it. Of the latter there are seven sorts or varieties for purposes of +cultivation; only two, the first and seventh, are also to be found +in a wild state. First, Chelem, apparently identical with Agave +angustifolia; this ranks first. Second, Yaxci (pronounced Yachki; +from yax, green, and tri, agave), the second in order; this is used +only for fine weaving. Third, Sacci (pronounced Sakki; sack, white), +the most important and productive, supplying almost exclusively the +fiber for exportation; each plant yields annually twenty-five leaves, +weighing twenty-five pounds, from which is obtained one pound of clear +fiber. Fourth, Chucumci, similar to No. 3, but coarser. Fifth, Babci; +the fiber very fair, but the leaves rather small, therefore not very +productive. Sixth, Citamci (pronounced Kitamki; kitam, hog); neither +good nor productive. Seventh, Cajun or Cajum, probably Fourcroya +cubensis; leaves small, from four to five inches long. + +[Machine-spinning.] The cultivation of sisal has only in recent times +been prosecuted vigorously; and the extraction of the fiber from the +leaves, and the subsequent spinning for ships' rigging, are already +done by steam-machinery. This occupation is especially practiced by +the Maya Indians, a memorial of the Toltecs, who brought it with them +upon their emigration from Mexico, where it was in vogue long before +the arrival of the Spaniards. + +[Profit.] The sisal cultivation yields an annual profit of 95 per +cent. A mecate, equal to five hundred seventy-six square yards (varas), +contains sixty-four plants, giving sixty-four pounds of clear fiber, +of the value of $3.84; which, after deducting $1.71, the cost of +obtaining it, leaves $2.13 remaining. The harvesting commences from +four to five years after the first laying out of the plantation, +and continues annually for about fifty or sixty years. + +[Banana substitute unsatisfactory.] In tropical countries there +is scarcely a hut to be seen without banana trees surrounding it; +and the idea presented itself to many to utilize the fiber of these +plants, at that time entirely neglected, which might be done by the +mere labor of obtaining it; besides which, the little labor required +for their proper cultivation is quickly and amply repaid by their +abundant fruitfulness. [230] + +This idea, however, under the existing circumstances, would certainly +not be advantageous in the Philippines, as it does not pay to obtain +bast from the genuine abacá plant as soon as it has borne fruit. The +fiber of the edible banana might very well be used as material for +paper-making, though obtaining it would cost more than the genuine +bandala. + +[Fiber-extracting machinery.] In the Report of the Council of the +Society of Arts, London, May 11, 1860, attention was called to a +machine invented by F. Burke, of Montserrat, for obtaining fiber from +banana and other endogenous plants. While all the earlier machines +worked the fiber parallelwise, this one operated obliquely on it; +the consequence of which was that it was turned out particularly +clear. With this machine, from seven to nine per cent. of fibrous +substance may be obtained from the banana. The Tropical Fiber Company +have sent these machines to Demerara, also to Java and other places, +with the design of spinning the fiber of the edible banana, and also +to utilize some portions of the plant as materials in the manufacture +of paper. Proofs have already been brought forward of fiber obtained +in this manner in Java, the value of which to the spinner has been +reckoned at from £20 to £25. It does not appear, however, that these +promising experiments have led to any important results; at least, +the consular reports which have come to hand contain no information +on the subject. In the obtaining of bandala in the Philippines this +machine has not yet been used; nor has it even been seen, though the +English consul, in his latest report, complains that all the hitherto +ingeniously constructed machines have proved virtually useless. + +The bast of the edible banana continues still to be used in the +Philippines, notwithstanding that the plants, instead of being grown, +as in many parts of America, in large well-tended gardens, are here +scattered around the huts; but the forwarding of the raw material, +the local transport, and the high freightage will always render this +material too expensive for the European market (considering always its +very ordinary quality)--£10 per ton at the very least; while "Sparto +grass" (Lygaeum spartum, Loeffl.), [Paper-making materials.] which +was imported some few years since in considerable quantities for +the purpose of paper-making, costs in London only £5 per ton. [231] +The jute (Corchurus casularis) coffee-sacks supply another cheap paper +material. These serve in the fabrication of strong brown packing paper, +as the fiber will not stand bleaching. According to P. Symmonds, +the United States in recent years have largely used bamboo. The rind +of the Adansonia digitata also yields an extremely good material; +in particular, paper made entirely from New Zealand flax deserves +consideration, being, by virtue of its superior toughness, eminently +suited for "bill paper." + +[Preferability of discarded cloth.] It must not be overlooked that, in +the manufacture of paper, worn linen and cotton rags are the very best +materials that can be employed, and make the best paper. Moreover, +they are generally to be had for the trouble of collecting them, +after they have once covered the cost of their production in the +form of clothing materials; when, through being frayed by repeated +washings, they undergo a preparation which particularly adapts them +to the purpose of paper-making. + +[Increasing use of wood and straw.] The more paper-making progresses, +the more are ligneous fibers brought forward, particularly wood and +straw, which produce really good pastes; all the raw materials being +imported from a distance. That England takes so much sparto is easily +explained by the fact that she has very little straw of her own, +for most of the grain consumed by her is received from abroad in a +granulated condition. + + +CHAPTER XXV + + +[Tobacco revenue.] Of all the productions of the country tobacco is +the most important, so far (at least) as concerns the Government, +which have the cultivation of this plant, its manipulation, and sale, +the subjects of an extensive and strictly guarded monopoly, and derives +a very considerable portion of the public revenue therefrom. [232] +As to the objections raised against this revenue on the score of its +being opposed to justice and morality, many other sources of revenue in +the colonial budget might be condemned (such as the poll-tax, gaming +and opium licenses, the brandy trade, and the sale of indulgences); +yet none is so invidious and pernicious as the tobacco monopoly. + +[Injustice of the monopoly.] Often in the course of this narrative +of my travels I have had occasion to commend the clemency of the +Spanish Government. In glaring contrast therewith, however, stands the +management of the tobacco regulations. They appropriated the fields of +the peasantry without the slightest indemnification--fields which had +been brought under cultivation for their necessary means of sustenance; +forced them, under penalty of bodily punishment, to raise, on the +confiscated property, an article which required an immense amount +of trouble and attention, and which yielded a very uncertain crop; +and they then valued the harvested leaves arbitrarily and without any +appeal, and, in the most favorable case, paid for them at a nominal +price fixed by themselves. To be paid at all, indeed, appears to have +been a favor, for it has not been done in full now for several years in +succession. Spain regularly remains indebted to the unlucky peasants +in the amount of the miserable pittance allowed, from one year's end +to another. The Government ordered the officials to exact a higher +return from the impoverished population of the tobacco districts; and +even rewarded informers who, after pointing out fields already owned, +but which were considered suitable to the cultivation of tobacco, +were installed into possession of the proclaimed lands in the place +of the original owners. + +For proofs of these accusations, one need only peruse a few paragraphs +contained in the following stringent regulations, entitled "General +Instructions," [233] and, further, a few extracts from the official +dispatches of Intendant-General Agius to the Colonial Minister:-- [234] + +[Résumé of regulations] Cap. 25, § 329. The compulsory system of +cultivation in Cagayan, New Vizcaya, Gapan, Igorots, and Abra to +remain in force. + +§ 331. The Director-General of the Government is authorized to +extend compulsory labor to the other provinces, or to abolish it +where already introduced. These instructions may be altered wholly +or in part as occasion requires. + +§ 332. Prices may be either increased or lowered. + +§ 337. Claims or actions concerning the possession of tobacco +lands pending before the usual tribunal shall not prevent such +lands from being used for the purposes of tobacco cultivation, the +present proprietor being under strict obligation to continue the +cultivation either in person or by substitute. (If he omits to do so, +the magistrate or judge takes upon himself to appoint such substitute.) + +§ 351. The collectors have received denuncies, i.e. information, +that land adapted to tobacco growing is lying fallow, and that it is +private property. In case such land is really suitable to the purposes +of tobacco cultivation, the owners thereof are hereby summoned to +cultivate the same with tobacco in preference to anything else. At +the expiration of a certain space of time the land in question +is to be handed over to the informer. Be it known, however, that, +notwithstanding these enactments, the possessory title is not lost to +the owner, but he is compelled to relinquish all rights and usufruct +for three years. + +Cap. 27, § 357. An important duty of the collector is to insure the +greatest possible extension of the tobacco cultivation upon all +suitable lands, but in particular upon those which are specially +convenient and fertile. Lands which, although suitable for tobacco +growing, were previously planted with rice or corn, shall, as far +as practicable, be replaced by forest clearings, in order, as far as +possible, to prevent famine and to bring the interests of the natives +into harmony with those of the authorities. + +§ 351. In order that the work which the tobacco cultivation requires +may not be neglected by the natives, and that they may perform the +field work necessary for their sustenance, it is ordered that every +two persons working together shall, between them cultivate eight +thousand square varas, that is, two and one-half acres of tobacco land. + +§ 362. Should this arrangement fail to be carried out either through +age, sickness, or death, it shall be left to the priest of the district +to determine what quantity of work can be accomplished by the little +children, having regard to their strength and number. + +§ 369. Every collector who consigns from his district 1,000 fardos +more than in former years, shall receive for the overplus a double +gratuity, but this only where the proportion of first-class leaves +has not decreased. + +§ 370. The same gratuity will be bestowed when there is no diminution +in bulk, and one-third of the leaves is of first-class quality. + +The following sections regulate the action of the local authorities:-- + +§ 379. Every governor must present annually a list, revised by the +priest of the district, of all the inhabitants in his district of both +sexes, and of those of their children who are old enough to help in +the fields. + +§ 430. The officers shall forward the emigrants on to Cagayan and +Nueva Vizcaya, and will be entrusted with $5 for that purpose, which +must be repaid by each individual, as they cannot be allowed to remain +indebted in their province. + +§ 436. Further it is ordered by the Buen Gobierno (good government) +that no Filipino shall be liable for a sum exceeding $5, incurred +either as a loan or a simple debt. Thus the claim of a higher sum +can not impede emigration. + +§ 437. The Hacienda (Public Treasury) shall pay the passage money +and the cost of maintenance from Ilocos. + +§ 438. They are to be provided with the means of procuring cattle, +tools, etc., until the first harvest (although the Indian is only +liable for $5). + +§ 439. Such advances are, it is true, personal and individual; but, +in the case of death or flight of the debtor, the whole village is +to be liable for the amount due. + +[Tobacco from Mexico.] Tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum, L.) was introduced +into the Philippines soon after the arrival of the Spaniards by the +missionaries, who brought the seed with them from Mexico. [235] The +soil and climate being favorable to its production, and the pleasure +derived from it being speedily discovered by the natives, naturally +assisted in its rapid adoption. Next to the Cuban tobacco and a +few sorts of Turkish [236]it is admitted to be the best; and in the +colony it is asserted by competent judges that it would soon surpass +all others, if the existing regulations were abolished and free trade +established. There can be no doubt in the minds of impartial observers +that the quality and quantity of the produce might be considerably +increased by such a change; on the other hand, many of the prejudiced +officials certainly maintain the direct contrary. The real question is, +to what extent these expectations may be realized in the fulfilment of +such a measure; of course, bearing in mind that the judgment is swayed +by a strong desire for the abolition of a system which interferes at +present with their prospects of gain. But the fact is that, even now, +the native grown tobacco, notwithstanding all the defects inseparable +from an illicit trade, is equal to that produced by the [High grade +of Philippine product.] Government officials in their own factories, +and is valued at the same rate with many of the Havana brands; and +the Government cigars of the Philippines are preferred to all others +throughout Eastern Asia. Indeed, rich merchants, to whom a difference +of price is no object, as a rule take the Manila cigars before Havanas. + +[Manila tobacco handicapped.] According to Agius ("Memoria," 1871), in +the European market the Manila tobacco was admitted to be without any +rival, with the sole exception of the Vuelta abajo of Cuba; and most +certainly in the Asiatic and Oceanic ports its superior quality was +undisputed, as the Havana tobacco loses its flavor on the long voyage +to these countries; but now, from year to year, it is surely losing its +reputation. If, then, the Manila cigars have not hitherto succeeded in +making themselves acceptable in Europe on account of their inferiority, +the blame is attributable simply to the system of compulsory labor, +and the chronic insolvency of the Insular Treasury, whilst the produce +of other tobacco countries has steadily progressed in quality in +consequence of free competition. The fame of the Manila cigars may +also have suffered in some slight measure from the wide-spread, +though perfectly erroneous, idea that they contained opium. + +[Hampered by government restrictions.] How greatly the produce might be +increased by means of free trade is shown under other circumstances by +the example of Cuba. At the time when the Government there monopolized +the tobacco trade, the crops were only partly sufficient to cover +the home consumption; whereas, at the present time, Cuba supplies +all the markets of the world. [237] The decision of Captain-General +De la Gandara upon this question is in the highest degree worthy +of notice. In a MS. Report to the Colonial Minister, March, 1858, +concerning a measure for rendering the regulations of the tobacco +monopoly still more stringent, he says: "If the tobacco cultivation +is placed without restriction into the hands of private traders, +we shall most probably, in a few years, be in a position to command +nearly all the markets in the world." Most of the islands produce +tobacco. According to the quality of the produce, the tobacco +provinces rank in the following order: First, Cagayan and Isabela; +Second, Igorots; Third, Island of Mindanao; Fourth, Bisayas; Fifth, +Nueva Ecija. + +[Origin of monopoly.] From the Government Order, dated November 20, +1625, it is evident that even at that early period the sale of betel +nut, palm spirit (toddy), tobacco, etc., was a Government monopoly: but +it does not seem to have been very strictly carried out. The tobacco +monopoly, as it stands at present, the whole trade of which from the +sowing of the seedling plants to the sale of the manufactured article +is exclusively in the hands of the Government, was first introduced by +Captain-General José Basco y Vargas. And a Government Order, under date +of January 9, 1780 (confirmed by Departmental Regulations, December +13, 1781), further enacted that the tobacco regulations should be +extended to the Philippine Islands, in like manner as in all Spanish +possessions in this and the other hemisphere (de uno y otto mundo). + +[Governor Basco's innovations.] Before the administration of this +very jealous Governor, for a period of two hundred years the colony +received annual contributions from New Spain (Situado de Nueva +España). In order to relieve the Spanish Exchequer, from this charge +Basco introduced (at that time national economic ideas prevailed of +making the natural resources of a State supply its immediate wants) +a plan upon which, fifty years later, Java modelled its "Culture +System." In the Philippines, however, the conditions for this system +were less favorable. In addition to the very slight submissiveness +of the population, there were two great obstacles in the opposition +of the priests and the want of trustworthy officials. Of all the +provincial trades brought into existence by the energy of Basco, the +indigo cultivation is the only one that remains in the hands of private +individuals, the tobacco trade still being a Government monopoly. [238] +Basco first of all confined the monopoly to the provinces immediately +contiguous to the capital, in all of which the cultivation of tobacco +was forbidden under penalty of severe punishment, except by persons +duly authorized and in the service of the Government. [239] In the +other provinces the cultivation was to a certain extent permitted; +but the supply remaining after deduction of what was consumed in each +province was to be sold to the Government only. + +[Speculation with public funds.] In the Bisayas the magistrates +purchased the tobacco for the Government and paid for it at the rate +previously fixed by the Government factories at Manila; and they +were allowed to employ the surplus money of the Government treasury +chest for this purpose. A worse system than this could scarcely be +devised. Officials, thinking only of their own private advantage, +suffered no competition in their provinces, employed their official +power to oppress the producer to the utmost extent, and thereby +naturally checked the production; and the Government treasury chest +consequently suffered frequent losses through bankruptcies, inasmuch +as the magistrates, who drew a salary of $600 and paid a license +of from $100 to $300 for the right of trading, in order to make +money quickly, engaged in the most hazardous speculations. In 1814 +this stupid arrangement was first put an end to; and forthwith the +tobacco supplies from the Bisayas increased, through the competition +of the private dealers, who then, for the first time, had the power of +purchase; and from 1839 the planters were empowered to obtain higher +prices than those afforded by the greedy monopolizing magistrates. At +present, the following general regulations are in force, subject, +however, to continual variation in details. + +[Changes bring improvement.] By a Departmental Order, September 5, +1865, the cultivation of tobacco was permitted in all the provinces, +though the produce was allowed to be sold only to the Government at +the price regulated by them. The wholesale purchases are made in Luzon +and the adjacent islands in fardos, [240] by "colleccion," that is, +direct through the finance officials, who have the management of +the plants from the sowing; but in the Bisayas by acopio; that is, +the Government officials buy up the tobacco tendered by the growers +or speculators by the cwt. + +[Different usages in Bisayas and Mindanao.] In the Bisayas and in +Mindanao everybody is allowed to manufacture cigars for his own +particular use, though trade therein is strictly prohibited; and +advances to the tobacco growers are also made there; while in Luzon +and the neighboring islands the Government provides seed and seedling +plants. Here, however, no land which is adapted to the cultivation +of tobacco is allowed to be used for any other purpose of agriculture. + +[Crude system of grading.] As the Financial Administration is +unable to classify the tobacco at its true value, as might be done +were free competition permitted, they have adopted the expedient of +determining the price by the size of the leaves; the care necessary +to be bestowed upon the training of the plants in order to produce +leaves of the required size being at least a guarantee of a certain +amount of proper attention and handling, even if it be productive of +no other direct good. [241] + +[Burden knowingly increased.] It is well known at Madrid how the +tobacco monopoly, by oppressing the wretched population, interferes +with the prosperity of the colony; yet, to the present day, the +Government measures have been so arranged as to exact a still larger +gain from this very impolitic source of revenue. + +["Killing the goose that lays the golden egg."] A Government Order of +January, 1866, directed the tobacco cultivation in the Philippines to +be extended as much as possible, in order to satisfy the requirements +of the colony, the mother country, and also the export trade; +and in the memorial already quoted, "reforms" are proposed by the +Captain-General, in the spirit of the goose with golden eggs. By +grafting new monopolies upon those already existing, he believes that +the tobacco produce can be increased from 182,102 cwt. (average of +the years 1860 to 1857) to 500,000, and even 800,000 cwt. Meantime, +with a view to obtaining increased prices, the Government resolved +to export the tobacco themselves to the usual markets for sale; and +in the year 1868 this resolution was really carried out. It was sent +to London, where it secured so favorable a market that it was at once +decreed that no tobacco in Manila should thenceforth be sold at less +than $25 per cwt. [242] This decree, however, referred only to the +first three qualities, the quantity of which decreased in a relative +measure with the increased pressure upon the population. Even in +the table annexed to the record of La Gandara this is very clearly +shown. Whilst the total produce for 1867 stood at 176,018 cwt. (not +much under the average of the years 1860 to 1857, viz., 182,102 cwt.), +the tobacco of the first class had decreased in quantity since 1862 +from over 13,000 to less than 5,000 cwt. + +[Gift to Spain of unusable tobacco.] The fourth, fifth, and sixth +classes, the greater part of which would before have been burnt, but +which now form no inconsiderable portion of the total crop, are in the +open markets positively unsaleable, and can be utilized only in the +form of a bonus to Spain, which annually receives, under the title of +atenciones á la peninsula, upwards of 100,000 cwt. If the colony were +not compelled to pay half the freight of these gifts, Spain would +certainly ask to be relieved of these "marks of attention." Seeing +that, according to the decision of the chief of the Government, the +greater portion of this tobacco is of such inferior quality that it +can find no purchaser at any price, it is impossible that its value +should cover either the cost of carriage or the customs duty. Moreover, +this tobacco tribute is a great burden on the colonial budget; which, +in spite of all deficits, is charged with the expenses attending the +collection of the tobacco, its packing, its cost of local transport, +and half the expense of its carriage to Europe. + +[De La Gandara's proposed reforms.] Dated in March, 1871,--the +beginning of a Golden Age, if De La Gandara's plans had been carried +out and his expectations realized,--there exists an excellent +statement from the Intendant-General addressed to the Minister of +Colonies pointing out plainly to the chief of the Government the +disadvantages arising from this mode of administration, and urging the +immediate repeal of the monopoly. In the next place proof was adduced, +supported by official vouchers, that the profits derived from the +tobacco monopoly were much smaller than usual. The total average +receipts of the tobacco administration for the five years 1855 to +1869, according to official accounts, amounted to $5,367,262; for the +years 1866 to 1870, only $5,240,935. The expenses cannot be accurately +estimated, inasmuch as there are no strict accounts obtainable; if, +however, the respective expenses charged in the colonial budget are +added together, they amount to $3,717,322 of which $1,812,250 is for +purchase of raw tobacco. + +[Slight real profit from monopoly.] Besides these expenses pertaining +exclusively to the tobacco administration there are still many other +different items to be taken into account; yet the cost incurred in +this branch of the service would be saved, if not altogether, at +least largely, if the State surrendered the tobacco monopoly. The +total of the disbursements must certainly, at the very lowest, be +estimated at $4,000,000; so, therefore, the State receives only a net +profit of $1,357,000; but even this is not to be reckoned on in the +future, for if the Government does not speedily cease carrying on this +trade, they will be forced into a very considerable and unavoidable +expense. To begin with, they must erect new factories and warehouses; +better machinery must be bought; wages will have to be considerably +increased; and, above all, means must be devised to pay off the +enormous sum of $1,600,000 in which the Government is indebted to the +peasants for the crops of 1869 and 1870, and to assure cash payments +for future harvests. "This is the only possible mode of preventing +the decay of the tobacco cultivation in the different provinces, +as well as relieving the misery of the wretched inhabitants." + +[Suffering and law-breaking thru the monopoly.] Later Agius proved +how trifling in reality the arrears were on account of which the +Government was abandoning the future of the colony, and showed the +misfortunes, of which I shall mention, these briefly, only a few, +resulting from the monopoly. He represented that the people of the +tobacco district, who were the richest and most contented of all in the +Archipelago, found themselves plunged into the deepest distress after +the increase of the Government dues. They were, in fact, far more +cruelly treated than the slaves in Cuba, who, from self-interested +motives, are well-nourished and taken care of; whereas in this case, +the produce of compulsory labor has to be delivered to the State at an +arbitrarily determined price; and even this price is paid only when +the condition of the treasury, which is invariably in difficulties, +permits. Frequently their very means of subsistence failed them, +in consequence of their being forbidden to carry on the cultivation; +and the unfortunate people, having no other resources for the relief +of their pressing necessities, were compelled to alienate the debtor's +bond, which purchased the fruits of their enforced toil but had been +left unpaid. Thus, for an inconsiderable deficit of about $1,330,000, +the whole population of one of the richest provinces is thrown into +abject misery; a deep-rooted hatred naturally arises between the people +and their rulers; and incessant war ensues between the authorities +and their subjects. Besides which, an extremely dangerous class of +smugglers have recently arisen, who even now do not confine themselves +to mere smuggling, but who, on the very first opportunity presented by +the prevailing discontent, will band themselves together in one solid +body. The official administrators, too, are charged with gross bribery +and corruption; which, whether true or not, occasions great scandal, +and engenders increasing disrespect and distrust of the colonial +administration as well as of the Spanish people generally. [243] + +[Growing opposition to the monopoly.] The preceding memorial has +been not only written, but also printed; and it seems to indicate +that gradually in Spain, and also in wider circles, people are +becoming convinced of the untenableness of the tobacco monopoly; +yet, in spite of this powerful review, it is considered doubtful by +competent judges whether it will be given up so long as there are any +apparent or appreciable returns derived therefrom. These acknowledged +evils have long been known to the Colonial Government; but, from +the frequent changes of ministers, and the increasing want of money, +the Government is compelled, so long as they are in office, to use +all possible means of obtaining profits, and to abstain from carrying +out these urgent reforms lest their own immediate downfall should be +involved therein. Let us, however, cherish the hope that increased +demand will cause a rise in the prices; a few particularly good crops, +and other propitious circumstances, would relieve at once the Insular +Treasury from its difficulties; and then the tobacco monopoly might be +cheerfully surrendered. One circumstance favorable to the economical +management of the State that would be produced by the surrender of +the tobacco monopoly would be the abolition of the numerous army of +officials which its administration requires. This might, however, +operate reversely in Spain. The number of place-hunters created +must be very welcome to the ministers in power, who thus have the +opportunity of providing their creatures with profitable places, +or of shipping off inconvenient persons to the Antipodes from the +mother-country, free of cost. The colony, be it known, has not only +to pay the salaries, but also to bear the cost of their outward and +homeward voyages. Any way, the custom is so liberally patronized that +occasionally new places have to be created in order to make room for +the newly-arrived nominees. [244] + +[Wholesale rate highter than retail government.] At the time of +my visit, the royal factories could not turn out a supply of cigars +commensurate with the requirements of commerce; and this brought about +a peculiar condition of things; the wholesale dealer, who purchased +cigars in very considerable quantities at the government auctions, +paying higher than the retail rates at which he could buy them +singly in the estancia. In order, therefore, to prevent the merchants +drawing their stocks from the estancias, it was determined that only +a certain quantity should be purchased, which limit no merchant dared +exceed. A very intricate system of control, assisted by espionage, +had to be employed in seeing that no one, through different agents and +different estancias, collected more than the authorised supply; and +violation of this rule, when discovered, was punished by confiscation +of the offender's stock. Everybody was free to purchase cigars in the +estancia, but nobody was permitted to sell a chest of cigars to an +acquaintance at cost price. Several Spaniards with whom I have spoken +concerning these strange regulations maintained them to be perfectly +just, as otherwise all the cigars would be carried off by foreigners, +and they would not be able themselves in their own colony to smoke +a decent cigar. + +[Money juggling.] There was, as I afterwards learnt, a still more +urgent reason for the existence of these decrees. The government +valued their own gold at sixteen dollars per ounce, while in commerce +it fetched less, and the premium on silver had, at one time, risen +to thirty-three per cent. Moreover, on account of the insufficient +quantity of copper money for minor currency, the small change +frequently gained a premium on the silver dollar, so much so that by +every purchaser not less than half a dollar was realized. In exchanging +the dollar from five to fifteen per cent discount was charged; it was +profitable, therefore, to purchase cigars in the estancias with the +gold ounce, and then to retail them in smaller quantities nominally +at the rate of the estancias. Both premiums together might in an +extreme case amount to as much as forty-three per cent. [245] + +[Directions for cultivating tobacco] Not being able to give a +description of the cultivation of tobacco from personal knowledge +and experience, I refer the reader to the following short extract +from the Cartilla Agricola:-- + +Directions for preparing and laying out the seed beds.--A suitable +piece of land is to be enclosed quadrilaterally by boundaries, +ploughed two or three times, cleared of all weeds and roots, made +somewhat sloping, and surrounded by a shallow ditch, the bed of +which is to be divided by drains about two feet wide. The soil of +the same must be very fine, must be ground almost as fine as powder, +otherwise it will not mix freely and thoroughly with the extremely +fine tobacco seed. The seed is to be washed, and then suspended in +cloths during the day, in order to allow the water to run off; after +which it is to be mixed with a similar quantity of ashes, and strewn +carefully over the bed. The subsequent successful results depend +entirely upon the careful performance of this work. From the time +the seed first begins to sprout, the beds must be kept very clean, in +dry weather sprinkled daily, and protected from birds and animals by +brambles strewn over, and by means of light mats from storms and heavy +rains. After two months the plants will be between five and six inches +high, and generally have from four to six leaves; they must then be +replanted. This occurs, supposing the seed-beds to have been prepared +in September, about the beginning or the middle of November. A second +sowing takes place on the 15th of October, as much as a precaution +against possible failure, as for obtaining plants for the lowlands. + +Concerning the land most advantageous to the tobacco and its +cultivation. Replanting of the seedlings.--Land must be chosen of +middling grain; somewhat difficult, calciferous soil is particularly +recommended, when it is richly fertilized with the remains of +decayed plants, and not less than two feet deep; and the deeper the +roots are inserted the higher will the plant grow. Of all the land +adapted to the tobacco cultivation, that in Cagayan is the best, +as from the overflowing of the large streams, which occurs every +year, it is laid under water, and annually receives a new stratum +of mud, which renders the soil particularly productive. Plantations +prepared upon such soil differ very materially from those less +favored and situated on a higher level. In the former the plants +shoot up quickly as soon as the roots strike; in the latter they +grow slowly and only reach a middling height. Again in the fertile +soil the plants produce quantities of large, strong, juicy leaves, +giving promise of a splendid harvest. In the other case the plants +remain considerably smaller and grow sparsely. Sometimes, however, +even the lowlands are flooded in January and February, and also in +March, when the tobacco has already been transplanted, and grown to +some little height. In that event everything is irreparably lost, +particularly if the flood should occur at a time when it is too late +to lay out new plantations. High-lying land also must, therefore, be +cultivated, in the hope that by very careful attention it may yield +a similar return. In October these fields must be ploughed three or +four times, and harrowed twice or thrice. On account of the floods, +the lowlands cannot be ploughed until the end of December, or the +middle of January; when the work is light and simple. The strongest +plants in the seed-beds are chosen, and set in the prepared grounds +at a distance of three feet from each other, care being taken that +the earth clinging to the roots is not shaken off. + +Of the care necessary to be bestowed upon the plants.--In the east a +little screen, formed by two clods, is to be erected, with a view to +protecting the plant from the morning sun, and retaining the dew for +a longer time. The weeds to be carefully exterminated, and the wild +shoots removed. A grub which occasionally appears in great numbers is +particularly dangerous. Rain is very injurious immediately before the +ripening, when the plants are no longer in a condition to secrete the +gummy substance so essential to the tobacco, which, being soluble in +water, would be drawn off by the action of the rain. Tobacco which has +been exposed to bad weather is always deficient in juice and flavor, +and is full of white spots, a certain sign of its bad quality. The +injury is all the greater the nearer the tobacco is to its ripening +period; the leaves hanging down to the ground then decay, and must +be removed. If the subsoil is not deep enough, a carefully tended +plant will turn yellow, and nearly wither away. In wet seasons this +does not occur so generally, as the roots in insufficient depth are +enabled to find enough moisture. + +Cutting and manipulation of the leaves in the drying shed.--The +topmost leaves ripen first; they are then of a dark yellow color, and +inflexible. They must be cut off as they ripen, collected into bundles, +and brought to the shed in covered carts. In wet or cloudy weather, +when the nightly dews have not been thoroughly evaporated by the sun, +they must not be cut. In the shed the leaves are to hang upon cords or +split Spanish cane, with sufficient room between them for ventilation +and drying. The dried leaves are then laid in piles, which must not +be too big, and frequently turned over. Extreme care must be taken +that they do not become overheated and ferment too strongly. This +operation, which is of the utmost importance to the quality of the +tobacco, demands great attention and skill, and must be continued +until nothing but an aromatic smell of tobacco can be noticed coming +from the leaves; but the necessary skill for this manipulation is only +to be acquired by long practice, and not from any written instructions. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + + +[Importance of Chinese.] An important portion of the population +remains to be discussed, viz. the Chinese, who are destined to play a +remarkable part, inasmuch as the development of the land-cultivation +demanded by the increasing trade and commercial intercourse can be +affected only by Chinese industry and perseverance. Manila has always +been a favorite place for Chinese immigrants; and neither the hostility +of the people, nor oppressing and prohibitory decrees for a long time +by the Government, not even the repeated massacres, have been able +to prevent their coming. The position of the Islands, south-east of +two of the most important of the Chinese provinces, must necessarily +have brought about a trade between the two countries very early, as +ships can make the voyage in either direction with a moderate wind, +as well in the south-west as the north-east monsoon. [Early Chinese +Associations.] In a few old writers may even be found the assertion +that the Philippine Islands were at one time subject to the dominion of +China; and Father Gaubil (Lettres Edifiantes) mentions that Jaung-lo +(of the Ming dynasty) maintained a fleet consisting of 30,000 men, +which at different times proceeded to Manila. The presence of their +ships as early as the arrival of Magellan in the extreme east +of the archipelago, as well as the China plates and earthenware +vessels discovered in the excavations, plainly show that the trade +with China had extended far earlier to the most distant islands of +the archipelago. It formed the chief support of the young Spanish +colony, and, after the rise of the Encomiendas, was nearly the only +source of its prosperity. It was feared that the junks would offer +their cargoes to the Dutch if any obstacle was put in the way of +their coming to Manila. The colony certainly could not maintain its +position without the "Sangleys," [246] who came annually in great +numbers in the junks from China, and spread all over the country and +in the towns as [Industrial and commercial activity.] shopkeepers, +artisans, gardeners, and fishermen; besides which, they were the +only skillful and industrious workers, as the Filipinos under the +priestly domination had forgotten altogether many trades in which +they had engaged in former times. I take these facts from Morga. + +[Unsuccessful attempts at restriction.] In spite of all this, the +Spaniards have, from the very commencement, endeavored rigorously to +limit the number of the Chinese; who were then, as they are now, envied +and hated by the natives for their industry, frugality, and cunning, by +which means they soon became rich. They were an abomination, moreover, +in the eyes of the priests as being irreclaimable heathens, whose +example prevented the natives from making progress in the direction +of Christianity; and the government feared them on account of the +strong bond of union existing between them, and as being subjects of +so powerful a nation, whose close proximity threatened the small body +of Spaniards with destruction. [247] Fortunately for the latter, the +Ming dynasty, which at that time was hastening to its downfall, did +not think of conquest; but wickedly disposed powers which sprang into +existence upon their downfall brought the colony into extreme danger. + +[Limahong and the Mandarins' visit.] In the attack of the noted pirate, +Limahong, in 1574, they escaped destruction only by a miracle; and +soon new dangers threatened them afresh. In 1603 a few mandarins came +to Manila, under the pretence of ascertaining whether the ground +about Cavite was really of gold. They were supposed to be spies, +and it was concluded, from their peculiar mission, that an attack +upon the colony was intended by the Chinese. + +[Early massacre of Chinese.] The archbishop and the priests incited +the distrust which was felt against the numerous Chinese who were +settled in Manila. Mutual hate and suspicion arose; both parties feared +one another and prepared for hostilities. The Chinese commenced the +attack; but the united forces of the Spaniards, being supported by +the Japanese and the Filipinos, twenty-three thousand, according +to other reports twenty-five thousand, of the Chinese were either +killed or driven into the desert. When the news of this massacre +reached China, a letter from the Royal Commissioners was sent to the +Governor of Manila. That noteworthy document shows in so striking a +manner how hollow the great government was at that time that I have +given a literal translation of it at the end of this chapter. + +[Chinese laborers limited.] After the extermination of the Chinese, +food and all Chinese other necessaries of life were difficult to +obtain on account of the utter unreliability of the natives for work; +but by 1605 the number of Chinese [248] had again so increased that +a decree was issued limiting them to six thousand, "these to be +employed in the cultivation of the country;" while at the same time +their rapid increase was taken advantage of by the captain-general +for his own interest, as he exacted eight dollars from each Chinaman +for permission to remain. In 1539 the Chinese population had risen to +thirty thousand, according to other information, to forty thousand, +when they revolted and were reduced to seven thousand. "The natives, +who generally were so listless and indifferent, showed the utmost +eagerness in assisting in the [Another massacre.] massacre of the +Chinese, but more from hatred of this industrious people than from +any feeling of friendship towards the Spaniards." [249] + +[The pirate Kog-seng.] The void occasioned by this massacre was +soon filled up again by Chinese immigrants; and in 1662 the colony +was once more menaced with a new and great danger, by the Chinese +pirate Kog-seng, who had under his command between eighty and one +hundred thousand men, and who already had dispossessed the Dutch +of the Island of Formosa. He demanded the absolute submission of +the Philippines; his sudden death, however, saved the colony, and +occasioned a fresh outbreak of fury against the Chinese settlers in +Manila, a great number of whom were butchered in their own "quarter" +(ghetto). [250] Some dispersed and hid themselves; a few in their +terror plunged into the water or hanged themselves; and a great number +fled in small boats to Formosa. [251] + +[Another expulsion.] In 1709 the jealousy against the Chinese once +more had reached such a height that they were accused of rebellion, +and particularly of monopolizing the trades, and, with the exception +of the most serviceable of the artisans and such of them as were +employed by the Government, they were once again expelled. Spanish +writers praise the salutariness of these measures; alleging that +"under the pretence of agriculture the Chinese carry on trade; they +are cunning and careful, making money and sending it to China, so that +they defraud the Philippines annually of an enormous amount." Sonnerat, +however, complains that art, trade, and commerce had not recovered +from these severe blows; though, he adds, fortunately the Chinese, +in spite of prohibitory decrees, are returning through the corrupt +connivance of the governor and officials. + +[Thrifty traders.] To the present day they are blamed as being +monopolists, particularly by the creoles; and certainly, by means +of their steady industry and natural commercial aptitude, they +have appropriated nearly all the retail trade to themselves. The +sale of European imported goods is entirely in their hands; and the +wholesale purchase of the produce of the country for export is divided +between the natives, creoles, and the Chinese, the latter taking about +one-half. Before this time only the natives and creoles were permitted +to own ships for the purpose of forwarding the produce to Manila. + +In 1757 the jealousy of the Spaniards broke out again in the form +of a new order from Madrid, directing the expulsion of the Chinese; +and in 1759 the decrees of banishment, which were repeatedly evaded, +were carried into effect: but, as the private interests of the +officials did not happen to coincide with those of the creole traders, +the consequence was that "the Chinese soon streamed back again in +incredible numbers," and made common cause with the English upon +their invasion in 1762. [252] [Anda's and 1819 massacres.] Thereupon, +Sr. Anda commanded "that all the Chinese in the Philippine Islands +should be hanged," which order was very generally carried out. [253] +The last great Chinese massacre took place in 1819, when the aliens +were suspected of having brought about the cholera by poisoning +the wells. The greater part of the Europeans in Manila also fell +victims to the fury of the populace, but the Spaniards generally were +spared. The prejudice of the Spaniards, especially of the creoles, +had always been directed against the Chinese tradesmen, who interfered +unpleasantly with the fleecing of the natives; and against this class +in particular were the laws of limitation aimed. They would willingly +have let them develop the country by farming but the hostility of +the natives generally prevented this. + +[Expulsion of merchants from Manila.] A decree, issued in 1804, +commanded all Chinese shopkeepers to leave Manila within eight days, +only those who were married being allowed to keep shops; and their +residence in the provinces was permitted only upon the condition +that they confined themselves entirely to agriculture. Magistrates +who allowed these to travel in their districts were fined $200; the +deputy-governor $25; and the wretched Chinese were punished with from +two to three years' confinement in irons. + +In 1839 the penalties against the Chinese were somewhat mitigated, +but those against the magistrates were still maintained on account +of their venality. In 1843 Chinese ships were placed upon terms of +equality with those of other foreign countries (Leg. Ult., II., +476). In 1850 Captain-General Urbiztondo endeavored to introduce +Chinese colonial farming, and with this object promised a reduction +of the taxes to all agricultural immigrants. Many Chinese availed +themselves of this opportunity in order to escape the heavy poll-tax; +but in general they soon betook themselves to trading once more. + +[Oppressive taxation.] Of late years the Chinese have not suffered +from the terrible massacres which used formerly to overtake them; +neither have they suffered banishment; the officials being content to +suppress their activity by means of heavy and oppressive taxes. For +instance, at the end of 1867 the Chinese shopkeepers were annually +taxed $50 for permission to send their goods to the weekly market; +this was in addition to a tax of from $12 to $100 on their occupations; +and at the same time they were commanded thenceforth to keep their +books in Spanish (English Consular Report, 1859). + +[Excellent element in population.] The Chinese remain true to their +customs and mode of living in the Philippines, as they do everywhere +else. When they outwardly embrace Christianity, it is done merely to +facilitate marriage, or from some motive conducive to their worldly +advantage; and occasionally they renounce it, together with their +wives in Manila, when about to return home to China. Very many of +them, however, beget families, are excellent householders, and their +children in time form the most enterprising, industrious, and wealthy +portion of the resident population. + +[Formidable competitors.] Invigorated by the severe struggle for +existence which they have experienced in their over-populated +country, the Chinese appear to preserve their capacity for labor +perfectly unimpaired by any climate. No nation can equal them in +contentedness, industry, perseverance, cunning, skill, and adroitness +in trades and mercantile matters. When once they gain a footing, they +generally appropriate the best part of the trade to themselves. In +all parts of external India they have dislodged from every field +of employment not only their native but, progressively, even their +European competitors. Not less qualified and successful are they in +the pursuance of agriculture than in trade. The emigration from the +too thickly peopled empire of China has scarcely begun. As yet it is +but a small stream, but it will by-and-by pour over all the tropical +countries of the East in one mighty torrent, completely destroying all +such minor obstacles as jealous interference and impotent precaution +might interpose. + +[Sphere of futureinflunce.] Over every section of remote India, +in the South Sea, in the Indian Archipelago, in the states of South +America, the Chinese seem destined, in time, either to supplant every +other element, or to found a mixed race upon which to stamp their +individuality. In the Western States of the Union their number is +rapidly on the increase; and the factories in California are worked +entirely by them, achieving results that cannot be accomplished by +European labor. + +[Mongolian vs. Caucasion in America.] One of the most interesting of +the many questions of large comprehensiveness which connect themselves +with the penetration of the Mongolian race into America, which up +till now it had been the fashion to regard as the inheritance of the +Caucasians, is the relative capacity of labor possessed by both these +two great races, who in the Western States of America have for the +first time measured their mutual strength in friendly rivalry. Both +are there represented in their most energetic individuality; [254] +and every nerve will be strained in carrying on the struggle, inasmuch +as no other country pays for labor at so high a rate. + +[Efficiency and reliability of Chinese labor.] The conditions, however, +are not quite equal, as the law places certain obstacles in the way of +the Chinese. The courts do not protect them sufficiently from insult, +which at times is aggravated into malicious manslaughter through +the ill-usage of the mob, who hate them bitterly as being reserved, +uncompanionable workers. Nevertheless, the Chinese immigrants take +their stand firmly. The western division of the Pacific Railway has +been chiefly built by the Chinese, who, according to the testimony of +the engineers, surpass workmen of all other nationalities in diligence, +sobriety, and good conduct. What they lack in physical power they +make up for in perseverance and working intelligently together. The +unique and nearly incredible performance that took place on April 28, +1859, when ten miles of railway track were laid in eleven working +hours along a division of land which had in no way been prepared +beforehand, was accomplished by Chinese workmen; and indeed only by +them could it have been practicable. [255] + +[Chinese cleverness and industry.] Of course, the superiority of the +European in respect Chinese of the highest intellectual faculties is +not for a moment to be doubted; but, in all branches of commercial +life in which cleverness and perservering industry are necessary to +success, the Chinese certainly appear entitled to the award. To us +it appears that the influx of Chinese must certainly sooner or later +kindle a struggle between capital and labor, in order to set a limit +upon demands perceptibly growing beyond moderation. + +[Chinese problem in America.] The increasing Chinese immigration +already intrudes upon the attention of American statesmen questions of +the utmost social and political importance. What influence will this +entirely new and strange element exercise over the conformation of +American relations? Will the Chinese found a State in the States, or go +into the Union on terms of political equality with the other citizens, +and form a new race by alliance with the Caucasian element? These +problems, which can only be touched upon here in a transitory form, +have been dealt with in a masterly manner by Pumpelly, in his work +Across America and Asia, published in London in 1870. + + +Letter of the Commissary-General of Chinchew to Don Pedro De Acuña, +Governor of the Philippines + +To the powerful Captain-General of Luzon: + +"Having been given to understand that the Chinese who proceeded to +the kingdom of Luzon in order to buy and sell had been murdered by +the Spaniards, I have investigated the motives for these massacres, +and begged the Emperor to exercise justice upon those who had engaged +in these abominable offences, with a view to security in the future. + +"In former years, before my arrival here as royal commissioner, a +Chinese merchant named Tioneg, together with three mandarins, went +with the permission of the Emperor of China from Luzon to Cavite, +for the purpose of prospecting for gold and silver; which appears to +have been an excuse, for he found neither gold nor silver; I thereupon +prayed the Emperor to punish this imposter Tioneg, thereby making +patent the strict justice which is exercised in China. + +"It was during the administration of the ex-Viceroy and Eunuchs +that Tioneg and his companion, named Yanglion, uttered the untruth +already stated; and subsequently I begged the Emperor to transmit +all the papers bearing upon the matter, together with the minutes +of Tioneg's accusation; when I myself examined the before-mentioned +papers, and knew that everything that the accused Tioneg had said +was utterly untrue. + +"I wrote to the Emperor and stated that, on account of the untruth +which Tioneg had been guilty of, the Castilians entertained the +suspicion that he wished to make war upon them, and that they, +under this idea, had murdered more than thirty thousand Chinese in +Luzon. The Emperor, complying with my request, punished the accused +Yanglion, though he omitted to put him to death; neither was Tioneg +beheaded or confined in a cage. The Chinese people who had settled in +Luzon were in no way to blame. I and others discussed this with the +Emperor in order to ascertain what his pleasure was in this matter, +as well as in another, namely, the arrival of two English ships on +the coast of Chinchew (Fukien or Amoy district)--a very dangerous +circumstance for China; and to obtain His Imperial Majesty's decision +as to both these most serious matters. + +"We also wrote to the Emperor that he should direct the punishment of +both these Chinese; and, in acknowledging our communication, he replied +to us, in respect to the English ships which had arrived in China, +that in case they had come for the purpose of plundering, they should +be immediately commanded to depart thence for Luzon; and, with regard +to the Luzon difficulty, that the Castilians should be advised to give +no credence to rogues and liars from China; and both the Chinese who +had discovered the harbor to the English should be executed forthwith; +and that in all other matters upon which we had written to him, our +will should be his. Upon receipt of this message by us--the Viceroy, +the Eunuch, and myself--we hereby send this our message to the Governor +of Luzon, that his Excellency may know the greatness of the Emperor +of China and of his Empire, for he is so powerful that he commands +all upon which the sun and moon shine, and also that the Governor of +Luzon may learn with what great wisdom this mighty empire is governed, +and which power no one for many years has attempted to insult, although +the Japanese have sought to disturb the tranquillity of Korea, which +belongs to the Government of China. They did not succeed, but on the +contrary were driven out, and Korea has remained in perfect security +and peace, which those in Luzon well know by report. + +"Years ago, after we learnt that so many Chinese perished in Luzon +on account of Tioneg's lies, many of us mandarins met together, +and resolved to leave it to the consideration of the Emperor to +take vengeance for so great a massacre; and we said as follows:--The +country of Luzon is a wretched one, and of very little importance. It +was at one time only the abode of devils and serpents; and only +because (within the last few years) so large a number of Chinese +went thither for the purpose of trading with the Castilians has it +improved to such an extent; in which improvement the accused Sangleyes +materially assisted by hard labor, the walls being raised by them, +houses built, and gardens laid out, and other matters accomplished +of the greatest use to the Castilians; and now the question is, why +has no consideration been paid for these services, and these good +offices acknowledged with thanks, without cruelly murdering so many +people? And although we wrote to the King twice or thrice concerning +the circumstances, he answered us that he was indignant about the +before-mentioned occurrences, and said for three reasons it is not +advisable to execute vengeance, nor to war against Luzon. The first +is that for a long time till now the Castilians have been friends +of the Chinese; the second, that no one can predict whether the +Castilians or the Chinese would be victorious; and the third and last +reason is, because those whom the Castilians have killed were wicked +people, ungrateful to China, their native country, their elders, +and their parents, as they have not returned to China now for very +many years. These people, said the Emperor, he valued but little for +the foregoing reasons; and he commanded the Viceroy, the Eunuch, and +myself, to send this letter through those messengers, so that all in +Luzon may know that the Emperor of China has a generous heart, great +forbearance, and much mercy, in not declaring war against Luzon; and +his justice is indeed manifest, as he has already punished the liar +Tioneg. Now, as the Spaniards are wise and intelligent, how does it +happen that they are not sorry for having massacred so many people, +feeling no repentance thereat, and also are not kinder to those of the +Chinese who are still left? Then when the Castilians show a feeling of +good-will, and the Chinese and Sangleyes who left after the dispute +return, and the indebted money is repaid, and the property which was +taken from the Sangleyes restored, then friendship will again exist +between this empire and that, and every year trading-ships shall come +and go; but if not, then the Emperor will allow no trading, but on the +contrary will at once command a thousand ships of war to be built, +manned with soldiers and relations of the slain, and will, with the +assistance of other peoples and kingdoms who pay tribute to China, wage +relentless war, without quarter to any one; and upon its conclusion +will present the kingdom of Luzon to those who do homage to China. + +"This letter is written by the Visitor-General on the 12th of the +second month." + +A contemporary letter of the Ruler of Japan forms a somewhat notable +contrast:-- + + +Letter of Daifusama, Ruler of Japan + +"To the Governor Don Pedro de Acuña, in the year 1605: + +"I have received two letters from your Excellency, as also all the +donations and presents described in the inventory. Amongst them was +the wine made from grapes, which I enjoyed very much. In former years +your Excellency requested that six ships might come here, and recently +four, which request I have always complied with. + +"But my great displeasure has been excited by the fact that of the four +ships upon whose behalf your Excellency interposed, one from Antonio +made the journey without my permission. This was a circumstance of +great audacity, and a mark of disrespect to me. Does your Excellency +wish to send that ship to Japan without my permission? + +"Independently of this, your Excellency and others have many times +discussed with me concerning the antecedents and interests of Japan, +and many other matters, your requests respecting which I cannot comply +with. This territory is called Xincoco, which means 'consecrated to +Idols,' which have been honored with the highest reverence from the +days of our ancestor until now, and whose actions I alone can neither +undo nor destroy. Wherefore, it is in no way fitting that your laws +should be promulgated and spread over Japan; and if, in consequence +of these misunderstandings, your Excellency's friendship with the +empire of Japan should cease, and with me likewise, it must be so, +for I must do that which I think is right, and nothing which is +contrary to my own pleasure. + +"Finally, I have heard it frequently said, as a reproach, that many +Japanese--wicked, corrupt men--go to your kingdom, remaining there +many years, and then return to Japan. This complaint excites my anger, +and therefore I must request your Excellency henceforth not to allow +such persons to return in the ships which trade here. Concerning the +remaining matters, I trust your Excellency will hereafter employ your +judgment and circumspection in such a manner as to avoid incurring +my displeasure for the future." + + +CHAPTER XXVII + + +[Spain's discovery and occupation.] The Philippines were discovered +by Magellan on the 16th of March, 1521--St. Lazarus' day. [256] +But it was not until 1564, [257] after many previous efforts had +miscarried, that Legaspi, who left New Spain with five ships, took +possession of the Archipelago in the name of Philip II. The discoverer +had christened the islands after the sanctified Lazarus. This name, +however, never grew into general use; [Numerous names.] the Spaniards +persistently calling them the Western Islands--Islas del Poniente; +and the Portuguese, Islas del Oriente. Legaspi gave them their present +name [258] in honor of Philip II, who, in his turn, conferred upon +them the again extinct name of New Castile. [259] Legaspi first of +all annexed Cebu, and then Panay; and six years later, in 1571, he +first sub dued Manila, which was at that time a village surrounded by +palisades, and commenced forthwith the construction of a fortified +town. The subjection of the remaining territory was effected so +quickly that, upon the death of Legaspi (in August, 1572), all the +western parts were in possession of the Spaniards. [Mindanao and +Sulu independent.] Numerous wild tribes in the interior, however, +the Mahomedan states of Mindanao and the Sulu group, for example, +have to this day preserved their independence. The character of +the people, as well as their political disposition, favored the +occupancy. There was no mighty power, no old dynasty, no influential +priestly domination to overcome, no traditions of national pride to +suppress. The natives were either heathens, or recently proselytized +superficially to Islamism, and lived under numerous petty chiefs, who +ruled them despotically, made war upon one another, and were easily +subdued. Such a community was called Barangay; and it forms to this +day, though in a considerably modified form, the foundation of the +constitutional laws. [Spanish improvemnts.] The Spaniards limited the +power of the petty chiefs, upheld slavery, and abolished hereditary +nobility and dignity, substituting in its place an aristocracy +created by themselves for services rendered to the State; but they +carried out all these changes very gradually and cautiously. [260] +The old usages and laws, so long as they did not interfere with the +natural course of government, remained untouched and were operative +by legal sanction; and even in criminal matters their validity was +equal to those emanating from the Spanish courts. To this day the +chiefs of Barangay, with the exception of those bearing the title +of "Don," have no privileges save exemption from the poll-tax and +socage service. [Unthinking policy of greed.] They are virtually +tax-collectors, excepting that they are not paid for such service, +and their private means are made responsible for any deficit. The +prudence of such a measure might well be doubted, without regard to +the fact that it tempts the chiefs to embezzlement and extortion; +and it must alienate a class of natives who would otherwise be a +support to the Government. + +[High character of early administrators.] Since the measures adopted in +alleviation of the conquest and occupancy succeeded in so remarkable +a manner, the governors and their subordinates of those days, at a +time when Spain was powerful and chivalrous, naturally appear to have +been distinguished for wisdom and high spirit. Legaspi possessed both +qualities in a marked degree. Hardy adventurers were tempted there, +as in America, by privileges and inducements which power afforded +them; as well as by the hope, which, fortunately for the country, was +never realized, of its being rich in auriferous deposits. In Luzon, +for instance, Hernando Riquel stated that there were many goldmines in +several places which were seen by the Spaniards; "the ore is so rich +that I will not write any more about it, as I might possibly come under +a suspicion of exaggerating; but I swear by Christ that there is more +gold on this island than there is iron in all Biscay." [Conquerors +on commission.] They received no pay from the kingdom; but a formal +right was given them to profit by any territory which was brought into +subjection by them. Some of these expeditions in search of conquest +were enterprises undertaken for private gain, others for the benefit +of the governor; and such service was rewarded by him with grants of +lands, carrying an annuity, offices, and other benefits (encomiendas, +oficios y aprovechamientos). The grants were at first made for three +generations (in New Spain for four), but were very soon limited +to two; when De los Rios pointed this out as being a measure very +prejudicial to the Crown, "since they were little prepared to serve +his Majesty, as their grand-children had fallen into the most extreme +poverty." After the death of the feoffee the grant reverted to the +State; and the governor thereupon disposed of it anew. + +[The feudal "encomiendas."] The whole country at the outset was +completely divided into these livings, the defraying of which formed by +far the largest portion of the expenses of the kingdom. Investitures of +a similar nature existed, more or less, in a territory of considerable +extent, the inhabitants of which had to pay tribute to the feoffee; +and this tribute had to be raised out of agricultural produce, the +value of which was fixed by the feudal lord at a very low rate, but +sold by him to the Chinese at a considerable profit. The feudal lords, +moreover, were not satisfied with these receipts, but held the natives +in a state of slavery, until forbidden by a Bull of Pope Gregory XIV, +dated April 18, 1591. Kafir and negro slaves, whom the Portuguese +imported by way of India, were, however, still permitted. + +[Extortions of encomenderos.] The original holders of feudal tenures +amassed considerable booty therefrom. Zuñiga relates that as early +as the time of Lavezares, who was provisional governor between 1572 +and 1575, he visited the Bisayas and checked the covetousness of +the encomenderos, so that at least during his rule they relaxed +their system of extortion. Towards the end of Sande's government +(1575-80) a furious quarrel broke out between the priests and the +encomenderos; the first preached against the oppression of the +latter, and memorialized Philip II thereon. The king commanded that +the natives should be protected, as the extortionate greed of the +feudal chiefs had exceeded all bounds; and the natives were then at +liberty to pay their tribute either in money or in kind. The result of +this well-intentioned regulation appears to have produced a greater +assiduity both in agriculture and trade, "as the natives preferred +to work without coercion, not on account of extreme want." [Salcedo +"most illustrious of the conquerors."] And here I may briefly refer to +the achievements of Juan de Salcedo, the most illustrious of all the +conquerors. Supported by his grandfather, Legaspi, with forty-five +Spanish soldiers, he fitted out an expedition at his own expense, +embarked at Manila, in May, 1572, examined all parts of the west coast +of the island, landed in all the bays which were accessible to his +light-draught ships, and was well received by the natives at most of +the places. He generally found great opposition in penetrating into +the interior; yet he succeeded in subduing many of the inland tribes; +and when he reached Cape Bojeador, the north-west point of Luzon, the +extensive territory which at present forms the provinces of Zambales, +Pangasinan, and Ilocos Notre and Sur, acknowledged the Spanish +rule. The exhaustion of his soldiers obliged Salcedo to return. In +Vigan, the present capital of Ilocos Sur, he constructed a fort, and +left therein for its protection his lieutenant and twenty-five men, +while he himself returned, accompanied only by seventeen soldiers, in +three small vessels. In this manner he reached the Cagayan River, and +proceeded up it until forced by the great number of hostile natives to +retreat to the sea. Pursuing the voyage to the east coast, he came down +in course of time to Paracale, where he embarked in a boat for Manila, +was capsized, and rescued from drowning by some passing natives. + +["The Cortes of the Philippines."] In the meantime Legaspi had died, +and Lavezares was provisionally carrying on the government. Salcedo +heard of this with vexation at being passed over; but, when he +recovered from his jealousy, he was entrusted with the subjugation of +Camarines, which he accomplished in a short time. In 1574 he returned +to Ilocos, in order to distribute annuities among his soldiers, and to +receive his own share. While still employed upon the building of Vigan, +he discovered the fleet of the notorious Chinese pirate, Limahong, who, +bent upon taking possession of the colony, was then passing that part +of the coast with sixty-two ships and a large number of soldiers. He +hastened at once, with all the help which he could summon together in +the neighborhood, to Manila, where he was nominated to the command of +the troops, in the place of the already deposed master of the forces; +and he drove the Chinese from the town, which they had destroyed. They +then withdrew to Pangasinan, and Salcedo burnt their fleet; which +exploit was achieved with very great difficulty. In 1576 this Cortes +of the Philippines died. [261] + +[Commercial importance of early Manila.] Apart from the priests, the +first-comers consisted only of officials, soldiers, and sailors; and to +them, naturally, fell all the high profits of the China trade. Manila +was their chief market, and it also attracted a great portion of the +external Indian trade, which the Portuguese had frightened away from +Malacca by their excessive cruelty. The Portuguese, it is true, still +remained in Macao and the Moluccas: but they wanted those remittances +which were almost exclusively sought after by the Chinese, viz., +the silver which Manila received from New Spain. + +[Spain and Portugal united.] In 1580 Portugal, together with all +its colonies, was handed over to the Spanish Crown; and the period +extending from this event to the decay of Portugal (1580-1640) +witnessed the Philippines at the height of their power and prosperity. + +[Manila as capital of a vast empire.] The Governor of Manila ruled +over a part of Mindanao, Sulu, the Moluccas, Formosa, and the original +Portuguese possessions in Malacca and India. "All that lies between +Cape Singapore and Japan is subject to Luzon; their ships cross the +ocean to China and New Spain, and drive so magnificent a trade that, +if it were only free, it would be the most extraordinary that the +world could show. It is incredible what glory these islands confer +upon Spain. The Governor of the Philippines treats with the Kings of +Cambodia, Japan, China. The first is his ally, the last his friend; +and the same with Japan. He declares war or peace, without waiting +for the command from distant Spain." [262] [Dutch opposition.] But +the Dutch had now begun the struggle, which they managed to carry +on against Philip II in every corner of the world; and even in 1510 +De Los Rios complained that he found the country very much altered +through the progress and advance made by the Dutch; also that the Moros +of Mindanao and Sulu, feeling that they were supported by Holland, +were continually in a state of discontent. + +[Decline of colony.] The downfall of Portugal occasioned the loss of +her colonies once more. Spanish policy, the government of the priests, +and the jealousy of the Spanish merchants and traders especially, +did everything that remained to be done to prevent the development +of agriculture and commerce--perhaps, on the whole, fortunately, +for the natives. + +[Philippine history unimportant and unsatisfactory.] The +subsequent history of the Philippines is, in all its particulars, +quite as unsatisfactory and uninteresting as that of all the other +Spanish-American possessions. Ineffectual expeditions against pirates, +and continual disputes between the clerical and secular authorities, +form the principal incidents. [263] + +[Undesirable emigrants from Spain.] After the first excitement of +religious belief and military renown had subsided, the minds of those +who went later to these outlying possessions, consisting generally as +they did of the very dregs of the nation, were seized with an intense +feeling of selfishness; and frauds and speculations were the natural +sequence. The Spanish writers are full of descriptions of the wretched +state of society then existing, which it is unnecessary to repeat here. + +[English occupation.] The colony had scarcely been molested by +external enemies, with the exception of pirates. In the earliest time +the Dutch had engaged occasionally in attacks on the Bisayas. But +in 1762 (during the war of the Bourbon succession) an English fleet +suddenly appeared before Manila, and took the surprised town without +any difficulty. The Chinese allied themselves with the English. A +great insurrection broke out among the Filipinos, and the colony, +under the provisional government of a feeble archbishop, was for a +time in great danger. It was reserved for other dignitaries of the +Church and Anda, an energetic patriot, to inflame the natives against +the foreigners; and the opposition incited by the zealousness of the +priests grew to such an extent that the English, who were confined in +the town, were actually glad to be able to retreat. In the following +year the news arrived from Europe of the conclusion of peace; but +in the interval this insurrection, brought about by the invasion, +had rapidly and considerably extended; and it was not suppressed +until 1765, when the work was accomplished by creating enmity among +the different tribes. [264] But this was not done without a loss to +the province of Ilocos of two hundred sixty-nine thousand two hundred +and seventy persons--half of the population, as represented by Zuñiga. + +[Many minor uprisings from local grievances.] Severity and want of +tact on the part of the Government and their instruments, as well as +bigoted dissensions have caused many revolts of the natives; yet none, +it is true, of any great danger to the Spanish rule. The discontent +has always been confined to a single district, as the natives do +not form a united nation; neither the bond of a common speech nor +a general interest binding the different tribes together. The state +communications and laws among them scarcely reach beyond the borders +of the villages and their dependencies. + +[Danger from mestizos and creoles.] A consideration of far more +importance to the distant metropolis than the condition of the +constantly excited natives, who are politically divided among +themselves, and really have no steady object in view, is the attitude +of the mestizos and creoles, whose discontent increases in proportion +to their numbers and prosperity. The military revolt which broke +out in 1823, the leaders of which were two creoles, might easily +have terminated fatally for Spain. The latest of all the risings of +the mestizos seems to have been the most dangerous, not only to the +Spanish power, but to all the European population. [265] + +[Cavite 1872 mutiny.] On the 20th of January, 1872, between eight and +nine in the evening, the artillery, marines, and the garrison of the +arsenal revolted in Cavite, the naval base of the Philippines, and +murdered their officers; and a lieutenant who endeavored to carry the +intelligence to Manila fell into the hands of a crowd of natives. The +news therefore did not reach the capital until the next morning, when +all the available troops were at once dispatched, and, after a heavy +preliminary struggle, they succeeded the following day in storming +the citadel. A dreadful slaughter of the rebels ensued. Not a soul +escaped. Among them was not a single European; but there were many +mestizos, of whom several were priests and lawyers. Though perhaps +the first accounts, written under the influence of terror, may have +exaggerated many particulars, yet both official and private letters +agree in describing the conspiracy as being long contemplated, widely +spread, and well planned. The whole fleet and a large number of troops +were absent at the time, engaged in the expedition against Sulu. A +portion of the garrison of Manila were to rise at the same time as +the revolt in Cavite, and thousands of natives were to precipitate +themselves on the caras blancas (pale faces), and murder them. The +failure of the conspiracy was, it appears, only attributable to a +fortunate accident--to the circumstance, namely, that a body of the +rebels mistook some rocket fired upon the occasion of a Church festival +for the agreed signal, and commenced the attack too soon. [266] + +[Summing up.] Let me be permitted, in conclusion, to bring together a +few observations which have been scattered through the text, touching +the relations of the Philippines with foreign countries, and briefly +speculate thereon. + +[Credit due Spain.] Credit is certainly due to Spain for having +bettered the condition of a people who, though comparatively speaking +highly civilized, yet being continually distracted by petty wars, +had sunk into a disordered and uncultivated state. The inhabitants of +these beautiful islands, upon the whole, may well be considered to +have lived as comfortably during the last hundred years, protected +from all external enemies and governed by mild laws, as those of +any other tropical country under native or European sway,--owing, +in some measure, to the frequently discussed peculiar circumstances +which protect the interests of the natives. + +[Friars an important factor.] The friars, also, have certainly had +an essential part in the production of the results. + +[Their defects have worked out for good.] Sprung from the lowest +orders, inured to hardship and want, and on terms of the closest +intimacy with the natives, they were peculiarly fitted to introduce +them to a practical conformity with the new religion and code +of morality. Later on, also, when they possessed rich livings, +and their devout and zealous interest in the welfare of the masses +relaxed in proportion as their incomes increased, they materially +assisted in bringing about the circumstances already described, +with their favorable and unfavorable aspects. Further, possessing +neither family nor good education, they were disposed to associate +themselves intimately with the natives and their requirements; +and their arrogant opposition to the temporal power generally arose +through their connection with the natives. With the altered condition +of things, however, all this has disappeared. The colony can no +longer be kept secluded from the world. Every facility afforded for +commercial intercourse is a blow to the old system, and a great step +made in the direction of broad and liberal reforms. The more foreign +capital and foreign ideas and customs are introduced, increasing +the prosperity, enlightenment, and self-respect of the population, +the more impatiently will the existing evils be endured. + +[Contrast with English colonies.] England can and does open her +possessions unconcernedly to the world. The British colonies are +united to the mother country by the bond of mutual advantage, +viz. the production of raw material by means of English capital, +and the exchange of the same for English manufactures. The wealth +of England is so great, the organization of her commerce with the +world so complete, that nearly all the foreigners even in the British +possessions are for the most part agents for English business houses, +which would scarcely be affected, at least to any marked extent, +by a political dismemberment. It is entirely different with Spain, +which possesses the colony as an inherited property, and without the +power of turning it to any useful account. + +[Menaces to Spanish rule.] Government monopolies rigorously maintained, +insolent disregard and neglect of the mestizos and powerful creoles, +and the example of the United States, were the chief reasons of the +downfall of the American possessions. The same causes threaten ruin +to the Philippines: but of the monopolies I have said enough. + +[Growing American influence.] Mestizos and creoles, it is true, are +not, as they formerly were in America, excluded from all official +appointments; but they feel deeply hurt and injured through the +crowds of place-hunters which the frequent changes of ministries +send to Manila. The influence, also, of the American element is at +least visible on the horizon, and will be more noticeable when the +relations increase between the two countries. At present they are +very slender. The trade in the meantime follows in its old channels to +England and to the Atlantic ports of the United States. Nevertheless, +whoever desires to form an opinion upon the future history of the +Philippines, must not consider simply their relations to Spain, +but must have regard to the prodigious changes which a few decades +produce on either side of our planet. + +[Powerful neighbors] For the first time in the history of the world +the mighty powers on both sides of the ocean have commenced to enter +upon a direct intercourse with one another--Russia, which alone is +larger than any two other parts of the earth; China, which contains +within its own boundaries a third of the population of the world; +and America, with ground under cultivation nearly sufficient to feed +treble the total population of the earth. Russia's future role in +the Pacific Ocean is not to be estimated at present. + +[China and America.] The trade between the two other great powers will +therefore be presumably all the heavier, as the rectification of the +pressing need of human labor on the one side, and of the corresponding +overplus on the other, will fall to them. + +[Nearing predominance of the Pacific.] The world of the ancients was +confined to the shores of the Mediterranean; and the Atlantic and +Indian Oceans sufficed at one time for our traffic. When first the +shores of the Pacific re-echoed with the sounds of active commerce, +the trade of the world and the history of the world may be really +said to have begun. A start in that direction has been made; whereas +not so very long ago the immense ocean was one wide waste of waters, +traversed from both points only once a year. From 1603 to 1769 scarcely +a ship had ever visited California, that wonderful country which, +twenty-five years ago, with the exception of a few places on the coast, +was an unknown wilderness, but which is now covered with flourishing +and prosperous towns and cities, served by a sea-to-sea railway, and +its capital already ranking the third of the seaports of the Union; +even at this early stage of its existence a central point of the +world's commerce, and apparently destined, by the proposed junction +of the great oceans, to play a most important part in the future. + +[The mission of America.] In proportion as the navigation of the west +coast of America extends the influence of the American element over +the South Sea, the captivating, magic power which the great republic +exercises over the Spanish colonies [267] will not fail to make itself +felt also in the Philippines, The Americans are evidently destined to +bring to a full development the germs originated by the Spaniards. As +conquerors of modern times, representing the age of free citizens in +contrast to the age of knighthood, they follow with the plow and the +axe of the pioneer, where the former advanced under the sign of the +cross with their swords. + +[Superiority over Spanish system.] A considerable portion of +Spanish-America already belongs to the United States, and has since +attained an importance which could not possibly have been anticipated +either under the Spanish Government or during the anarchy which +followed. With regard to permanence, the Spanish system cannot for a +moment be compared with that of America. While each of the colonies, +in order to favor a privileged class by immediate gains, exhausted +still more the already enfeebled population of the metropolis by the +withdrawal of the best of its ability, America, on the contrary, has +attracted to itself from all countries the most energetic element, +which, once on its soil and, freed from all fetters, restlessly +progressing, has extended its power and influence still further and +further. The Philippines will escape the action of the two great +neighboring powers all the less for the fact that neither they nor +their metropolis find their condition of a stable and well-balanced +nature. + +[Need of Philippine awakening.] It seems to be desirable for the +Filipinos that the above-mentioned views should not speedily become +accomplished facts, because their education and training hitherto +have not been of a nature to prepare them successfully to compete +with either of the other two energetic, creative, and progressive +nations. They have, in truth, dreamed away their best days. + + + +PART II + +State of the Philippines in 1810 + +By Tomas de Comyn + +[Population.] The enumeration of the natives for the assessment +of tributes, in the manner ordained by the standing regulations +of the Intendants of New Spain, is not observed in the Philippine +Islands; nor indeed would this be an easy task. The wide extent of +the twenty-seven provinces of which they are composed, scattered, as +they are, through the great space comprehended between the southern +part of Mindanao, and the almost desert islands known by the name of +Batanes and Babuyanes, to the north of that of Luzon, presents almost +insurmountable obstacles, and in some measure affords an excuse for +the omission. Among these obstacles may be mentioned the necessity of +waiting for the favorable monsoon to set in, in order to perform the +several voyages from one island to the other; the encumbered state +of the grounds in many parts, the irregular and scattered situations +of the settlements and dwellings, the variety among the natives and +their dialects, the imperfect knowledge hitherto obtained of the +respective limits and extent of many districts, the general want of +guides and auxiliaries, on whom reliance can be placed, and, above all, +the extreme repugnance the natives evince to the payment of tributes, +a circumstance which induces them to resort to all kinds of stratagems, +in order to elude the vigilance of the collectors, and conceal their +real numbers. + +[Estimates.] The quinquennial census, as regularly enjoined, being +thus found impracticable, no other means are left than to deduce from +the annual lists, transmitted by the district magistrates to the +superintendent's office, and those formed by the parish curates, a +prudent estimate of the total number of inhabitants subject to our laws +and religion; yet these data, although the only ones, and also the most +accurate it is possible to obtain, for this reason, inspire so little +confidence, that it is necessary to use them with great caution. It is +evident that all the district magistrates and curates do not possess +the same degree of care and minuteness in a research so important, +and the omission or connivance of their respective delegates, more +or less general, renders it probable that the number of tributes, +not included in the annual returns, is very considerable. If to +this we add the leged exemptions from tribute, justly granted to +various individuals for a certain number of years, or during the +performance of special service, we shall easily be convinced of the +imperfection of results, derived from such insecure principles. * * * +I have carefully formed my estimates corresponding to the year 1810, +and by confronting them with such data as I possess relating to the +population of 1791, I have deduced the consoling assurance that, +under a parity of circumstances, the population of these Islands, +far from having diminished, has, in the interval, greatly increased. + +[Ratio to tributes.] From the collective returns recently made +out by the district magistrates, it would appear that the total +number of tributes amounts to 386,654, which multiplied by six and +one-half produces the sum of 2,515,406, at which I estimate the +total population, including old men, women and children. I ought +here to observe, that I have chosen this medium of six and one-half +between the five persons estimated in Spain and eight in the Indies, +as constituting each family, or entire tribute; for although the +prodigious fecundity of the women in the latter hemisphere, and the +facility of maintaining their numerous offspring, both the effects +of the benignity of the climate and their sober way of living, +sufficiently warrant the conclusion, that a greater number of persons +enter into the composition of each family, I have, in this case, been +induced to pay deference to the observations of religious persons, +intrusted with the care of souls, who have assured me that, whether +it be owing to the great mortality prevailing among children, or +the influence of other local causes, in many districts each family, +or entire tribute, does not exceed four and one-half persons. + +[Foreigners and wild tribes.] To the above amount it is necessary to +add 7,000 Sangleys (Chinese), who have been enumerated and subjected to +tribute, for, although in the returns preserved in the public offices, +they are not rated at more than 4,700, there are ample reasons for +concluding, that many who are wandering about, or hidden in the +provinces, have eluded the general census. The European Spaniards, +and Spanish creoles and mestizos, do not exceed 4,000 persons, of both +sexes and all ages, and the distinct castes or modifications known in +America under the name of mulattos, quadroons, etc., although found +in the Philippine Islands, are generally confounded in the three +classes of pure natives, Chinese mestizos, and Chinese. Besides the +above distinctions, various infidel and independent nations or tribes +exist, more or less savage and ferocious, who have their dwellings in +the woods and glens, and are distinguished by the respective names of +Aetas, Ingolots, Negrillos, Igorots, Tinguianes, etc., nor is there +scarcely a province in Luzon, that does not give shelter to some of +those isolated tribes, who inhabit and possess many of the mountainous +ranges, which ramificate and divide the wide and extended plains of +that beautiful island. + +[Origin of race.] The original race by which the Philippines are +peopled, is beyond doubt Malayan, and the same that is observed +in Sumatra, Java, Borneo, and the other islands of this immense +archipelago. The Philippine Islanders, very different from the +Malabars, whose features possess great regularity, sweetness, and even +beauty, only resemble the latter in color, although they excel them in +stature, and the good proportion of their limbs. The local population +of the capital, in consequence of its continual communication with +the Chinese and other Asiatics, with the mariners of various nations, +with the soldiery and Mexican convicts, who are generally mulattos, +and in considerable numbers sent to the Islands yearly in the way +of transportation, has become a mixture of all kinds of nations and +features, or rather a degeneration from the primitive races. + +[Manila's population.] Manila, the capital of the Philippine Islands, +at present contains a population of from one hundred forty to one +hundred fifty thousand inhabitants, of all classes; but it ought, +however, to be understood, that in this computation are included +the populous suburbs of Santa Cruz, San Fernando, Binondo, Tondo, +Quiapo, San Sebastian, San Anton, and Sampaloc; for although each is +considered as a distinct town, having a separate curate, and civil +magistrate of its own, the subsequent union that has taken place rather +makes them appear as a prolongation of the city, divided into so many +wards and parishes, in the center of which their respective churches +are built. Among the chief provincial towns, several are found to +contain a population of from twenty to thirty thousand souls, and +many not less than ten to twelve thousand. Finally, it is a generally +received opinion that, besides the Moros and independent tribes, the +total population of the Philippine Islands, subject to the authority +of the king, is equal to three millions. + +[Cotton.] Among the varied productions of the Philippines, for many +reasons, none is so deserving of attention as cotton. Its whiteness +and find staple give to it such a superiority over that of the rest of +Asia, and possibly of the world, that the Chinese anxiously seek it, +in order pereferably to employ it in their most perfect textures, +and purchase it thirty per cent dearer than the best from British +India. Notwithstanding this extraordinary allurement, the vicinity +of a good market, and the positive certainty that, however great the +exportation, the growth can never equal the consumption and immense +demand for this article, it has, nevertheless, hitherto been found +impossible to extend and improve its cultivation, in such a way as to +render it a staple commodity of the country. Owing to this lamentable +neglect, is it, that the annual exportation does not exceed five +thousand "arrobas" (125,000 lbs.) whereas the British import into +China at the annual rate of 100,000 bales, or 1,200,000 "arrobas," +produced in their establishments at Bombay and Calcutta, and which, +sold at the medium price of fifteen "taels," for one hundred thirty +pounds, yield the net amount of $4,800,000. + +[Its advantages.] This want of attention to so important a branch +of agriculture is the more to be regretted, as the Islands abound +in situations peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of cotton, and +the accidental failure of the crops in some provinces, might easily +be made up by their success in others. The culture of this plant is +besides extremely easy, as it requires no other labor than clearing +the grounds from brush-wood, and lightly turning up the earth with a +plough, before the seeds are scattered, which being done, the planter +leaves the crop to its own chance, and in five months gathers abundant +fruit, if, at the time the bud opens, it is not burnt by the north +winds, or rotted with unseasonable showers. + +[Restricted cultivation.] The provinces of Ilocos and Batangas +are the only ones in which the cultivation of cotton is pursued +with any degree of zeal and care, and it greatly tends to enrich +the inhabitants. This successful example has not, however, hitherto +excited emulation in those of the other provinces; and thus the only +production of the Philippine Islands, of which the excellence and +superior demand in trade are as well known as its culture is easy, +owing to strange fatality and causes which will be hereafter noticed, +is left almost in a neglected state, or, at most, confined to the +narrow limits of local consumption. + +[Indigo.] Pangasinan, Pampanga, Bataan, La Laguna, Tayabas and +Camarines produce indigo of various classes, and, although its +preparation or the extraction of the dye, is in most of the above +provinces still performed in an equally imperfect manner, several +small improvements have recently been made, which have bettered the +quality, more particularly in La Laguna, the only district in which +attempts have been made to imitate the process used in Guatemala, +as well with regard to the construction and number of vats necessary, +as the precipitation of the coloring particles--detached from the plant +by the agitation of the water. In the other places, the whole of the +operations are performed in a single vat, and the indigo obtained is +not unfrequently impregnated with lime and other extraneous substances. + +[Increasing culture.] Whatever may have been the causes of this evident +backwardness, from the period of the establishment of the Philippine +Company in these Islands, and in consequence of the exertions of some +of the directors to promote the cultivation of indigo, at that time +very little known, the natives have slowly, though gradually, been +reconciled to it; and discovering it to be one of the most advantageous +branches of industry, although accompanied with some labor and exposed +to the influence of droughts and excessive heats, as well as to the +risks attendant on the extraordinary anticipation of the rainy seasons, +have of late years paid more attention to it. The quintal of indigo +of the first class costs the planter from $35 to $40 at most; and in +the market of Manila it has been sold from $60 to $130, according to +the quality and the greater or lesser demand for the article at the +season. As, however, everything in this colony moves within a small +circle, it is not possible to obtain large quantities for exportation; +not only because of the risk in advancing the Indian sums of money +on account of his crop, but also owing to the annual surplus seldom +exceeding from two to two thousand five hundred distributed in many +hands, and collected by numerous agents, equally interested in making +up their return-cargoes. + +[Sugar.] The cultivation of the sugar-cane is more or less extended +to all the provinces of these Islands, owing to its consumption among +the natives being both great and general; but those of La Pampanga and +Pangasinan are more particularly devoted to it. These two provinces +alone annually produce about 550,000 arrobas (13,750,000 lbs.) of +which one-third is usually exported in Chinese and other foreign +vessels. In extraordinary seasons, the amount exported greatly +exceeds the quantity above stated, as, for example, happened in the +monsoon of 1796, when the planters came down to the port of Manila, +and by contract exported upwards of nine millions weight, of the first +and second qualities. The price of this article has experienced many +variations of late years; but the medium may be estimated at $6 for one +hundred twenty-five pounds of the first quality, and $5 for the second. + +[Method of Manufacture.] The superior quality of the sugar of +the Philippines is acknowledged, when compared to that produced +in the Island of Java, China, or Bengal; notwithstanding in the +latter countries it may naturally be concluded that greater pains +and care are bestowed on its manufacture. The pressure of the cane +in the Philippine Islands is performed by means of two coarse stone +cylinders, placed on the ground, and moved in opposite directions by +the slow and unequal pace of a "carabao," a species of ox or buffalo, +peculiar to this and other Asiatic countries. The juice is conveyed to +an iron caldron, and in this the other operations of boiling, skimming +and cleansing take place, till the crystallization or adhering of +the sugar is completed. All these distinct parts of the process, in +other colonies, are performed in four separate vessels, confided to +different hands, and consequently experience a much greater degree of +care and dexterity. After being properly clayed, the sugars acquire +such a state of consistency that, when shipped in canvas bags, they +become almost petrified in the course of the voyage, without moistening +or purging, as I understand is the case with those of Bengal. + +[Silk.] Among the useful objects to which the Patriotic Society of +Manila (Amigos del Pais) directed their attention, from the very +moment of their formation, the planting of mulberry trees seems to +have met with peculiar encouragement. The society rightly judged that +the naturalization of so valuable a commodity as silk in these Islands +would materially increase the resources of the colony, and there was +reason to hope that, besides local consumption, the growth might in +time be so much extended as to supply the wants of New Spain, which +are not less than 80,000 lbs., amounting to from $350,000 to $400,000, +conveyed there in the galleon annually sent to the port of Acapulco, +by the Manila merchants, which article they are now compelled to +contract for in China. + +[Mulberry trees.] The Society gave the first impulse to this laudable +project, and then the governor of the Islands, Don José Basco, anxious +to realize it, with this view sent Colonel Charles Conely on a special +commission to the province of Camarines. This zealous officer and +district magistrate, in the years 1786-1788 caused 4,485,782 mulberry +trees to be planted in the thirty districts under his jurisdiction; +and incalculable are the happy results which would have attended a +plan so extensive, and commenced with so much vigor, if it could have +been continued with the same zeal by his successor, and not at once +destroyed, through a mistaken notion of humanity, with which, soon +after the departure of Governor Basco, they proceeded to exonerate +the Filipinos from all agricultural labor that was not free and +spontaneous, in conformity, as was then alleged, to the general spirit +of our Indian legislation. As it was natural to expect, the total +abandonment of this valuable branch followed a measure so fatal, and +notwithstanding the efforts subsequently made by the Royal Company, in +order to obtain its restoration, as well in Camarines as the Province +of Tondo, all their exertions were in vain, though it must be allowed +that at the time several untoward circumstances contributed to thwart +their anxious wishes. Notwithstanding this failure, the project, far +from being deemed impracticable, would beyond all doubt succeed, and, +under powerful patronage, completely answer the well-founded hopes of +its original conceivers and promoters. The natives themselves would +soon be convinced of the advantages to be derived from the possession +of an article, in so many ways applicable to their own fine textures, +and besides the variety of districts in the Islands, proved to be +suitable to the cultivation of this interesting tree, it is a known +fact that many of the old mulberry groves are still in existence. + +[Beeswax.] The Bisayas, Cagayan, and many other provinces, produce wax +in considerable abundance, which the Indians collect from the natural +hives formed in the cavities of the trees, and it is also brought down +by the infidel natives from the mountains to the neighboring towns. The +quality certainly is not the best, and notwithstanding attempts have +been made to cleanse it from the extraneous particles with which it +is mixed, it always leaves a considerable sediment on the lower part +of the cakes, and never acquires an entire whiteness. Its consumption +is great, especially in the capital, and after supplying the wants of +the country, an annual surplus of from six hundred to eight hundred +quintals is appropriated for exportation. + +[Neglected market.] This certainly might be converted into an article +of extreme importance, especially for the kingdom of Peru, which +in peaceable times receives its supplies from Spain, and even from +the Island of Cuba; but for this purpose it would be necessary to +adopt the plan recommended by the enlightened zeal of the Patriotic +Society and previously encourage the establishment of artificial +hives and the plantation of aromatic and flowering shrubs, which so +easily attract and secure the permanency of the roving swarms, always +ready to undertake fresh labors. This, as well as many other points, +has hitherto been entirely overlooked. + +[Black pepper.] The production is cultivated in the Provinces of +Tayabas, Batangas, and La Laguna, but in such small quantities, that, +notwithstanding the powerful allurements of all kinds constantly held +out by the Royal Company during the long period of twenty years, +their agents have never been able to collect in more than about +64,000 lbs. annually. After every encouragement, the most that +has been attained with the natives, is confined to their planting +in some districts fifty to one hundred pepper-vines round their +huts, which they cultivate in the same way as they would plots of +flowers, but without any other labor than supporting the plant with +a proportioned stake, clearing the ground from weeds, and attending +to daily irrigation. + +[A possibility.] This article therefore scarcely deserves a place +amongst the flourishing branches of agriculture, at least till it has +been raised from its present depressed state, and the grounds laid +out in regular and productive pepper-groves. Till this is done, to +a corresponding extent, it must also be excluded from the number of +productions furnished by these Islands to commerce and exportation; +more particularly if we consider that, notwithstanding the great +fragrance of the grain, as well as its general superiority over the +rest of Asia, so great a difference exists in the actual price, that +this can never be compensated by its greater request in the markets of +Europe, and much less enable it to compete with that of the British and +Dutch, till its abundance has considerably lowered its primitive value. + +[Not popular.] Finally, although an infinity of grounds are to be found +adapted to the rapid propagation of pepper-vines, as may easily be +inferred from the analogy and proximity of the Philippine Islands to +the others of this same archipelago, so well known for their growth +of spices, it must be confessed that it is a species of culture by +no means popular among the Philippine natives, and it would be almost +requiring too much from their inconstancy of character, to wish them +to dedicate their lands and time to the raising of a production which, +besides demanding considerable care, is greatly exposed to injury, +and even liable to be destroyed by the severity of the storms, which +frequently mark the seasons. With difficulty would they be induced to +wait five years before they were able to gather the uncertain fruits +of their labor and patience. If, therefore, it should ever be deemed +a measure of policy to encourage the growth of black pepper, it will +be necessary for the government to order the commons belonging to each +town, and adapted to this species of plantation, to be appropriated to +this use, by imposing on the inhabitants the obligation of taking care +of them, and drawing from the respective coffers of each community the +necessary funds for the payment of the laborers, and the other expenses +of cultivation. If this cannot be done, it will be necessary to wait +till the general condition of the country is improved, when through +the spirit of emulation, and the enterprises of the planters being duly +patronized and supported, present difficulties may be overcome, and the +progressive results of future attempts will be then found to combine +the interests of individuals with the general welfare of the colony. + +[Coffee.] So choice is the quality of the coffee produced in the +Island of Luzon, especially in the districts of Indang and Silang, +in the province of Cavite, that if it is not equal to that of Mocha, +I at least consider it on parallel with the coffee of Bourbon; but, +as the consumption and cultivation are extremely limited, it cannot +with any propriety be yet numbered among the articles contributing +to the export-trade. + +[Cocoa.] Cocoa is something more attended to, in consequence of the +use of chocolate being greatly extended among the natives of easy +circumstances. That of the Island of Cebu, is esteemed superior to +the cocoa of Guayaquil, and possibly it is not excelled by that of +Soconusco. As, however, the quantity raised does not suffice for +the local consumption, Guayaquil cocoa meets a ready sale, and is +generally brought in return-cargo by the ships coming from Acapulco, +and those belonging to the Philippine company dispatched from Callao, +the shipping port of Lima. + +The cultivation of these two articles in the Philippines is on the +same footing as that of pepper, which, as above stated, is rather an +object of luxury and recreation than one of speculation among the +Filipinos. The observations and rules pointed out in the preceding +article, are, in a general sense, applicable to both these branches +of industry. + +[Cinnamon.] Cinnamon groves, or trees of wild cinnamon, are to be +found in every province. In Mindanao, a Dutchman, some years ago, +was employed by orders of the government, in examining the forests +and making experiments, with a view to discover the same tree of +this species that has given so much renown to Ceylon; but, whether +it was owing to a failure in the discovery, or, when the plant was +found, as at the time was said to be the case, the same results were +not produced, from the want of skill in preparing, or stripping off +the bark; certain it is, that the laudable attempt totally failed, +or rather the only advantage gained, has been the extracting from +the bark and more tender parts of the branches of the tree, an oil +or essence of cinnamon, vigorous and aromatic in the extreme. + +[Experiment in Laguna.] About the same time, a land-owner of the name +Salgado, undertook to form an extensive plantation of the same species +in the province of La Laguna, and succeeded in seeing upwards of a +million cinnamon trees thrive and grow to a considerable size; but +at last, he was reluctantly compelled to desist from his enterprise, +by the same reasons which led to the failure of Mindanao. + +[Need of experienced cultivators.] These facts are of sufficient +authority for our placing the cinnamon tree among the indigenous +productions of the Philippine Islands and considering their general +excellence above those of the same nature in the rest of Asia, it may +reasonably be concluded that, without the tree being identically the +same, the cinnamon with which it is clothed will be found finer than +that yielded by the native plant of the Island of Ceylon, and this +circumstance, consequently, holds out a hope that, in the course of +time, it may become an article of traffic, as estimable as it would be +new. In order, however, that this flattering prospect may be realized, +it will be requisite for the government to procure some families, +or persons from the above island, acquainted with the process of +stripping off the bark and preparing the cinnamon, by dexterously +offering allurements, corresponding to the importance of the service, +which, although in itself it may probably be an extremely simple +operation, as long as it is unknown, will be an insuperable obstacle +to the propagation of so important an agricultural pursuit. + +[Nutmeg.] Two species of nutmeg are known here, the one in shape +resembling a pigeon's egg, and the other of a perfectly spherical +form; but both are wild and little aromatic, and consequently held +in no great esteem. + +[Rice.] Rice is the bread and principal aliment of these natives, for +which reason, although its cultivation is among the most disagreeable +departments of husbandry, they devote themselves to it with astonishing +constancy and alacrity, so as to form a complete contrast with their +characteristic indifference in most other respects. This must, however, +be taken as a certain indication of the possibility of training them +up to useful labor; whenever they can be led on in a proper manner. + +[High yield.] The earth corresponds with surprising fertility to +the labors of the Filipino, rewarding him, in the good seasons, with +ninety, and even as high as one hundred per cent; a fact I have fully +ascertained and of which I besides possess undoubted proofs, obtained +from the parish-curates of La Pampanga. As, however, the provinces are +frequently visited with dreadful hurricanes (called in the country, +baguios), desolated by locusts, and exposed to the effects of the +great irregularities of nature, which, in these climes, often acts +in extreme, the crops of this grain are precarious, or at least, +no reliance can be placed on a certain surplus allowing an annual +exportation to China. On this account, rice cannot be placed in the +list of those articles which give support to the external trade. + +[Dye and cabinet woods.] The "sibucao," or logwood, and ebony, in +both which these islands abound, are the only woods in any tolerable +request. The first is sold with advantage in Bengal, and the other +meets a ready sale in the ports of China, in the absence of that +brought from the Island of Bourbon, which is a quality infinitely +superior. Both are however, articles of no great consumption, for, +being bulky and possessing little intrinsic value, they will not +bear the high charges of freight and other expenses, attendant on +the navigation of the Asiatic seas, and can only suit the shipper, +as cargo, who is anxious not to return to the above countries in +ballast. Hence, as an object of export trade, these articles cannot +be estimated at more than $30,000 per annum. + +[Timber.] I deem it superfluous to dwell on a multitude of other +good and even precious woods in timber, with which the Philippine +Islands are gifted, because this is a subject already sufficiently well +understood, and a complete collection of specimens, as well as some +large blocks, were besides transmitted some years ago to the king's +dockyard. It may, however, be proper to remark, that the establishment +near the capital for shipbuilding and masts, are much more expensive +than is generally supposed, as well on account of the difficulties +experienced in dragging the trees from the interior of the mountains +to the water's edge, as the want of regularity and foresight with +which these operations have been usually conducted. Besides these +reasons, as it is necessary that the other materials requisite for +the construction and complete armament of vessels of a certain +force, should come from Europe, it is neither easy, nor indeed, +would it be economical, as was erroneously asserted, to carry into +effect the government project of annually building, in the colony, +a ship of the line and a frigate. It ought further to be observed, +that no stock of timber, cut at a proper season and well cured, has +been lain in, and although the wages of the native carpenters and +caulkers are moderate, no comparison whatever can be made between the +daily work they perform, and that which is done in the same space of +time in our dock-yards of Spain. + +[Ship building advantages.] Notwithstanding, however, the impediments +above stated, as it is undeniable that abundance of suitable timber is +to be obtained, and as the conveyance of the remainder of the necessary +naval stores to the Philippine Islands is shorter and more economical +than to the coast of California, it possibly might answer, at least, +many mariners are of this opinion, in case it is deemed expedient to +continue building at San Blas the brigs and corvettes necessary for the +protection of the military posts and missions, situated along the above +coasts, to order them preferably to be built in Cavite giving timely +advice, and previously taking care to make the necessary arrangements. + +[Gold.] Gold abounds in Luzon and in many of the other islands; but as +the mountains which conceal it are in possession of the pagan tribes, +the mines are not worked; indeed it may be said they are scarcely +known. These mountaineers collect it in the brooks and streamlets, +and in the form of dust, offer it to the Christians who inhabit the +neighboring plains, in exchange for coarse goods and fire-arms; and it +has sometimes happened that they have brought it down in grains of one +and two ounces weight. The natives of the province of Camarines partly +devote themselves to the working of the mines of Mambulao and Paracale, +which have the reputation of being very rich; but, far from availing +themselves in the smallest degree of the advantages of art, they +content themselves with extracting the ore by means of an extremley +imperfect fusion, which is done by placing the mineral in shells and +then heating them on embers. A considerable waste consequently takes +place, and although the metal obtained is good and high colored, +it generally, passes into the hands of the district-magistrate, who +collects it at a price infinitely lower than it is worth in trade. It +is a generally received opinion that gold mines are equally to be +met with in the Province of Caraga, situated on the coasts of the +great Island of Mindanao, where, as well as in other points, this +metal is met with equal to twenty-two karats. The quantity, however, +hitherto brought down from the mountains by the pagan tribes, and +that obtained by the tributary Filipinos, has not been an object of +very great importance. + +[Copper.] Well-founded reasons exist for presuming that, in +the Province of Ilocos, mines of virgin copper exist, a singular +production of nature, or at least, not very common, if the generality +of combinations under which this metal presents itself in the +rest of the globe, are duly considered. This is partly inferred +from the circumstance of its having been noticed that the Igorots, +who occasionally come down from the mountains to barter with the +Christians, use certain coarse jars or vessels of copper, evidently +made by themselves with the use of a hammer, without any art or +regularity; and as the ignorance of these demi-savages is too great +for them to possess the notions necessary for the separation of the +component parts which enter into the combination of minerals, and much +less for the construction of furnaces suitable to the smelting and +formation of the moulds, it is concluded they must have found some +vein of copper entirely pure, which, without the necessity of any +other preparation, they have been able to flatten with the hammer and +rendered maleable, so as to convert it into the rough vessels above +spoken of. + +[Cinnabar.] The district-magistrate of Caraga, Don Augustin de Ioldi, +received a special commission from the government to explore and +obtain information respecting a mine of cinnabar, which was said +to be situated under his jurisdiction; and I have been informed of +another of the same species in the Island of Samar, the working of +which has ceased for a considerable time, not because the prospect was +unfavorable, but for the want of an intelligent person to superintend +and carry on the operations. The utility of such a discovery is too +obvious not to deserve, on the part of government, the most serious +attention and every encouragement to render it available; and it is +to be hoped that, as the first steps have already been taken in this +important disclosure, the enterprise will not be abandoned, but, on +the contrary, that exertions will be made to obtain aid and advice +from the Miners' College of Mexico, as the best means of removing +doubt, and acting with judgment in the affair. + +[Iron.] Iron in mineral form is to be found at various points on Luzon, +and those engaged in working it, without the necessity of digging; +collect the iron-bearing stones that constitute the upper stratum, +these, when placed in fusion, generally yield about forty per cent +clear metal. This is the case in the mountains of Angat, situated +in the Province of Bulacan, and also in the vicinity of the Baliwag +River. In Morong, however, belonging to the Province of La Laguna, +where the cannon-ball factory is established, the ore yields under +twenty-two per cent. Its quality is in general better than the Biscayan +iron, according to formal experiments and a report, made in 1798 to +Governor Don Rafael Maria de Aguilar, by two Biscayan master-smiths +from the squadron of Admiral Alava. Witnesses to this test were the +Count de Aviles and Don Felix de la Rosa, proprietors of the mines of +Morong and Angat, and the factor of the Philippine Company, Don Juan +Francisco Urroroz. Notwithstanding its advantages, this interesting +branch of industry has not yet passed beyond the most rude principles +and imperfect practice, owing to the want of correct information +as to the best process, and scarcity of funds on the part of the +proprietors to carry on their works. Without the aid of rolling or +slitting mills, indeed unprovided with the most essential instruments, +they have hitherto confined themselves to converting their iron into +plow shares, bolos, hoes, and such other agricultural implements; +leaving the Chinese of Amoy in quiet possession of the advantages +of being allowed to market annual supplies of all kinds of nails, +the boilers used on the sugar plantations, pots and pans, as well as +other articles in this line, which might easily be manufactured in +the Islands. + +[Sulphur.] In the Island of Leyte, abundance of sulphur is met with, +and from thence the gunpowder works of Manila are supplied at very +reasonable prices. Jaspers, cornelians and agates, are also found in +profusion in many of these provinces; everything, indeed, promises +varied mineral wealth worthy of exciting the curiosity and useful +researches of mineralogists, who, unfortunately, have not hitherto +extended their labors to these remote parts of the globe. + +[Pearls.] Pearl fisheries are, from time to time, undertaken off the +coast of the Island of Mindanao, and also near smaller islands not +far from Cebu, but with little success and less constancy, not because +there is a scarcity of fine pearls of a bright color and considerable +size, but on account of the divers' want of skill and their just dread +of the sharks, which, in great numbers infest these seas. Amber is +frequently gathered in considerable lumps in the vicinity of Samar and +the other Visayan Islands as well as mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, +and red and black coral, of the latter kind of which, I have seen +shafts as thick as my finger and six or eight feet long. + +[Estates.] The proprietors of estates in the Philippines are of +four classes. The most considerable is that of the religious orders, +Augustinians and Dominicans, who cultivate their respective lands on +joint account, or let them out at a moderate ground-rent, which the +planters pay in kind; but far from living in opulence, and accumulating +the immense revenues some of the religious communities enjoy in +America, they stand in need of all they earn and possess for their +maintenance, and in order to be enabled to discharge the various duties +and obligations annexed to the missions with which they are entrusted. + +[Spanish planters.] The second class comprehends the Spanish +proprietors, whose number possibly does not exceed a dozen of persons, +and even they labor under such disadvantages, and have to contend with +so many obstacles, under the existing order of things, that, compelled +to divide their lands into rice plantations, in consequence of this +being the species of culture to which the natives are most inclined, +and to devote a considerable portion of them to the grazing of horned +cattle, no one of them is in a situation to give to agriculture the +variety and extent desired, or to attain any progress in a pursuit +which in other colonies rapidly leads to riches. + +[Filipino farmers.] The third consists of the principal mestizos +and natives, and is in fact that which constitutes the real body of +farming proprietors. In the fourth and last may be included all the +other natives, who generally possess a small strip of land situated +round their dwellings, or at the extremities of the various towns +and settlements formed by the conquerors; besides what they may +have obtained from their ancestors in the way of legal inheritance, +which rights have been confirmed to them by the present sovereign of +the colony. + +[Aids to agriculture.] It will beyond doubt, in some measure dissipate +the distrust by which the Filipino is actuated, when the new and +paternal exertions of the superior government, to ameliorate his +present situation, are fully known, and when that valuable portion of +our distant population is assured that their rights will henceforth be +respected, and those exactions and compulsory levies which formerly +so much disheartened them, are totally abolished. On the other +hand, a new stimulus will be given by the living example and fresh +impulse communicated to the provinces by other families emigrating +and settling there, nurtured in the spirit and principles of those +reforms in the ideas and maxims of government by which the present +era is distinguished. A practical participation in these advantages +will, most assuredly, awaken a spirit of enterprise and emulation +that may be extremely beneficial to agriculture, and as the wants +of the natives increase in proportion as they are enabled to know +and compare the comforts arising out of the presence and extension +of conveniences and luxuries in their own towns, they will naturally +be led to possess and adopt them. + +[Plans for progress.] So salutary a change, however, can only be +the work of time, and as long as the government confines itself +to a system merely protecting, the effects must consequently be +slow. As it is therefore necessary to put in action more powerful +springs than the ordinary ones, it will be found expedient partly to +relax from some of those general principles which apply to societies, +differently constituted, or rather formed of other perfectly distinct +elements. As relating to the subject under discussion, I fortunately +discover two means, pointed out in the laws themselves, essentially +just, and at the same time capable of producing in this populous +colony, more than in any other, the desired results. The legislator, +founding himself on the common obligation of the subject to contribute +something in return for the protection he receives, and to co-operate +in the increase of the power and opulence of the State, proscribes +idleness as a crime, and points out labor as a duty; and although +the regulations touching the natives breathe the spirit of humanity, +and exhibit the wisdom with which they were originally formed, they +nevertheless concur and are directed to this primary object. In them +the distribution of vacant lands, as well as of the natives at fair +daily wages to clear them, is universally allowed, and these it seems +to me, are the means from an equitable and intelligent application +of which the most beneficial consequences may be expected. + +[Confiscating unused lands.] The first cannot be attended with any +great difficulty, because all the provinces abound in waste and vacant +lands, and scarcely is there a district in which some are not to be +found of private property completely uncultivated and neglected, +and consequently susceptible, as above stated, of being legally +transferred, for this reason alone, to the possession of an active +owner. Let their nature however, be what it may, in their adjudication, +it is of the greatest importance to proceed with uniformity, by +consecrating, in a most irrevocable manner, the solemnity of all +similar grants. Public interest and reason, in the Philippine Islands, +require that in all such cases deference only should be paid to +demands justly interposed, and formally established within a due and +fixed period; but after full and public notice has been given by the +respective judicial authorities, of the titles about to be granted, +the counter claims the natives may seek to put in after the lapse of +the period prefixed, should be peremptorily disregarded. Although at +first sight this appears a direct infringement on the imprescriptible +rights of property, it must be considered that in some cases individual +interests ought to be sacrificed to the general good, and that the +balance used, when treating of the affairs of State, is never of +that rigid kind as if applied to those of minor consideration. The +fact is, that by this means many would be induced to form estates, +who have hitherto been withheld by the dread of involving themselves, +and spending their money in law suits; at the same time the natives, +gradually accustoming themselves to this new order of things, would +lay aside that disposition to strife and contention, which forms so +peculiar a trait in their character, and that antipathy and odium would +also disappear with which they have usually viewed the agricultural +undertakings of Spaniards. + +[Compulsory labor.] Proceeding to the consideration of the second +means of accelerating the improvement of agriculture, viz., the +distribution of the natives, it will suffice to say that it would be +equally easy to show that it is absolutely necessary rigorously to +carry into effect, in the Philippine Islands, whatever the laws on this +subject prescribed, otherwise we must give up all those substantial +hopes entertained of the felicity of the colony. We are no longer in +a situation to be restricted to the removal of ordinary obstacles, +and the season is gone by in which, as heretofore, it entered into +our policy to employ no other than indirect stimulants--in order to +incline the Filipino to labor. It is evident that admonitions and +offers of reward no longer suffice; nor indeed have the advantageous +terms proposed to them by some planters, with a view to withdraw +the lower orders of the natives, such as the timauas and caglianes +plebeians, from the idle indifference in which they are sunk, been of +any avail. Their wants and wishes being easily supplied, the whole +of their happiness seems to depend on quiet and repose, and their +highest enjoyment on the pleasure of sleep. Energy, however, and a +certain degree of severity must be employed, if permanent resources +are to be called forth, and if the progressive settlement of European +families and the formation of estates proportioned to the fertility +of the soil and capabilities of the country are to enter into the +views of government. In vain would grants and transfers of vacant and +useless lands be made to new and enterprising proprietors, unless at +the same time they can be provided with laborers, and experience every +other possible facility, in order to clear, enclose, and cultivate +them. Hence follows the indispensable necessity of appealing to the +system of distributions, as above pointed out; for what class of +laborers can be obtained in a country where the whites are so few, +unless it be the natives? Should they object to personal service, +should they refuse to labor for an equitable and daily allowance, +by which means they would also cease to be burdens to the State +and to society, are they not to be compelled to contribute by this +means to the prosperity of which they are members; in a word, to +the public good, and thus make some provision for old age? If the +soldier, conveyed away from his native land, submits to dangers, and +is unceasingly exposed to death in defence of the State, why should +not the Filipino moderately use his strength and activity in tilling +the fields which are to sustain him and enrich the commonwealth? + +[The undeveloped Philippines.] Besides, things in the Philippine +Islands wear a very different aspect to what they do on the American +continent, where, as authorized by the said laws, a certain number +of natives may be impressed for a season, and sent off inland to a +considerable distance from their dwellings, either for the purpose of +agriculture, or working the mines, provided only they are taken care of +during their journeys, maintained, and the price of their daily labor, +as fixed by the civil authorities, regularly paid to them. The immense +valleys and mountains susceptible of cultivation, especially in the +Island of Luzon, being once settled, and the facilities of obtaining +hands increased, such legal acts of compulsion, far from being any +longer necessary, will have introduced a spirit of industry that +will render the labors of the field supportable and even desirable; +and in this occupation all the tributary natives of the surrounding +settlements can be alternately employed, by the day or week, and thus +do their work almost at the door of their own huts, and as it were +in sight of their wives and children. + +[No legal obstacle to forced labor.] If, after what has been above +stated, the apparent opposition obstacle to which at first sight +strikes the eye, in Law 40, Title 12, Book 6, speaking on this subject, +and expressly referring to the Philippine Islands, should be alleged, +no more will be necessary than to study its genuine sense, or read it +with attention, in order to be convinced of its perfect concordance +with the essential parts of the other laws of the Indies, already +quoted in explanation and support of the system of distributing +the laborers. The above-mentioned law does indeed contain a strict +recommendation to employ the Chinese and Japanese, not domiciliated, +in preference to the natives, in the establishments for cutting timber +and other royal works, and further enjoins that use is only to be made +in emergencies, and when the preservation of the state should require +it. It has, however, happened that, since the remote period at which +the above was promulgated, not only all contracts and commerce have +ceased, but also every communication with Japan has been interrupted, +and for a number of years not a single individual of that ferocious +race has existed in the Philippine Islands. With regard to the Chinese, +who are supposed to be numerous in the capital, of late years they have +diminished so much, that according to a census made by orders of the +government in the year 1807, no more than four thousand seven hundred +are found on the registers; and, if in consequence of their secreting +themselves, or withdrawing into the interior, a third more might be +added to the above amount, their total numbers would still remain +very inconsiderable, and infinitely inferior to what is required, +not only for the tillage of the estates, but even for the royal works. + +[Substitute laborers wanting.] As, therefore, the Japanese have totally +disappeared, and the number of Chinese is evidently inadequate to the +wants of agriculture, it almost necessarily follows that the practice +of distributing the Filipino laborers, as allowed by the aforesaid +laws of the Indies, under all circumstances, is the only alternate +left. Even if, against the adoption of this measure, it should be +attempted to urge the ambiguous sense of the concluding part of the +second clause, it would be easy to comprehend its true intent and +meaning, by referring to Law 1, Title 13, Book 5, which says: + +"That, considering the inconveniences which would arise from doing +away with certain distributions of grounds, gardens, estates, and +other plantations, in which the Indians are interested, as a matter +on which the preservation of those distant dominions and provinces +depends, it is ordained that compulsory labor, and such distributions +as are advantageous to the public good, shall continue." + +After so pointed an explanation, and a manifestation so clear of +the spirit of our legislation in this respect, all further comments +would be useless, and no doubt whatever can be any longer entertained +of the expediency, and even of the justice of putting the plan of +well-regulated distributions in practice, as a powerful means to +promote the agriculture, and secure to Spain the possession of these +valuable dominions of the Indian Seas. .... + +[Manufactures.] .... It would be impossible to gainsay Don Juan +Francisco Urroz, of the Philippine Company, in his detailed and +accurate report to the managing committee in 1802, when he observes: + +"That the Philippine Islands, from time immemorial, were acquainted +with, and still retain, that species of industry peculiar to the +country, adapted to the customs and wants of the natives, and which +constitutes the chief branch of their clothing. This, although +confined to coarse articles, may in its class be called perfect, as +far as it answers the end for which it is intended; and if an attempt +were made to enumerate the quantity of mats, handkerchiefs, sheeting, +and a variety of other cloths manufactured for this purpose only in +the Provinces of Tondo, Laguna, Batangas, Ilocos, Cagayan, Camarines, +Albay, Visaya, etc., immense supplies of each kind would appear, which +give occupation to an incalculable number of looms, indistinctly worked +by Indians, Chinese, and Sangleyan mestizos, indeed all the classes, +in their own humble dwellings, built of canes and thatched with palm +leaves, without any apparatus of regular manufacture." + +[Native cloth weaving.] With equal truth am I enabled to add, that the +natural abilities of these natives in the manufacture of all kinds of +cloths, fine as well as coarse, are really admirable. They succeed +in reducing the harsh filaments of the palm-tree, known by the name +of abaca, to such a degree of fineness, that they afterwards convert +them into textures equal to the best muslins of Bengal. The beauty +and evenness of their embroideries and open work excite surprise; +in short, the damask table-cloths, ornamental weaving, textures of +cotton and palm-fibres, intermixed with silk, and manufactured in the +above-mentioned provinces, clearly prove how much the inhabitants of +the Philippine Islands, in natural abilities and dexterity, resemble +the other people of the Asiatic regions. It must nevertheless be +allowed, that a want is noticed of that finish and polish which the +perfection of art gives to each commodity; but this circumstance +ought not to appear strange, if we consider that, entirely devoid of +all methodical instruction, and ignorant also of the importance of +the subdivision of labor, which contributes so greatly to simplify, +shorten, and improve the respective excellence of all kinds of works, +the same natives gin and clean the cotton, and then spin and weave it, +without any other instruments than their hands and feet, aided only by +the course and unsightly looms they themselves construct in a corner +of their huts, with scarcely anything else than a few canes and sticks. + +[Aptitude for, but no development of, manufacturing.] From the +preceding observations it may easily be deduced that, although +the natives succeed in preparing, with admirable dexterity, the +productions of their soil, and therewith satisfy the greatest part of +their domestic wants, facts which certainly manifest their talents +and aptitude to be employed in works of more taste and delicacy, +manufacturing industry is nevertheless far from being generalized, +nor can it be said to be placed with any degree of solidity on its +true and proper basis. Hence arise those great supplies of goods +annually imported into the country, for the purpose of making up the +deficiencies of the local manufactures. + +[Improved methods and machinery needed.] The regular distribution or +classification of the assemblage of operations which follow each other +in graduation, from the rough preparation of the first materials, till +the same have arrived at their perfect state of manufacture, instead +of being practiced, is entirely unknown. The want of good machinery +to free the cotton from the multitude of seeds with which it is +encumbered, so as to perform the operation with ease and quickness, is +the first and greatest obstacle that occurs; and its tediousness to the +natives is so repugnant, that many sell their crops to others, without +separating the seeds, or decline growing the article altogether, not +to be plagued with the trouble of cleaning it. As the want of method +is also equal to the superabundance or waste of time employed, the +expenses of the goods manufactured increased in the same proportion, +under such evident and great disadvantages; for which reason, far from +being able to compete with those brought from China and British India, +they only acquire estimation in the interior, when wanted to supply +the place of the latter, or in cases of accidental scarcity. + +[Scanty exports.] In a word, the only manufactured articles annually +exported from the Philippine Islands are eight to twelve thousand +pieces exports of light sail cloth, two hundred thousand pounds of +abaca cordage assorted, and six hundred carabao hides and deer skins, +which can scarcely be considered in a tanned state/ for, although the +Royal Company, from the time of their establishment, long continued to +export considerable quantities of dimities, calicos, stripes, checks, +and coverlids, as well as other cotton and silk goods, it was more +with a view to stimulate the districts of Ilocos to continue in the +habit of manufacturing, and thus introduce among the inhabitants of +that province a taste for industry, than the expectation of gain by +the sale of this kind of merchandise either in Spain or any of the +sections of America. At length, wearied with the losses experienced by +carrying on this species of mercantile operations, without answering +the principal object in view, they resolved, for the time being, +to suspend ventures attended with such discouraging circumstances. + +[Need of encouragement.] Notwithstanding so many impediments, it +would not, however, be prudent in the government entirely to abandon +the enterprise, and lose sight of the advantages the country offers, +or indeed, to neglect turning the habitual facilities of the natives +to some account. Far from there existing any positive grounds for +despairing of the progress of manufacturing industry, it may justly +be presumed that, whenever the sovereign, by adopting a different line +of policy, shall allow the unlimited and indistinct settlement of all +kinds of foreign colonists, and grant them the same facilities and +protection enjoyed by national ones, they will be induced to flock to +the Philippine Islands in considerable numbers, lured by the hope of +accumulating fortunes in a country that presents a thousand attractions +of every kind. Many, no doubt, will preferably devote themselves +to commerce, others to agricultural undertakings and also to the +pursuits of mining, but necessarily some will turn their attention +and employ their funds in the formation of extensive manufactures, +aided by intelligent instructors and suitable machinery. The +newly-introduced information and arts being thus diffused, it is +natural to expect they will be progressively adopted by a people +already possessing a taste and genius for this species of labor, +by which means manufacturing industry will soon be raised from the +state of neglect and unprofitableness in which it is now left. + +[Internal commerce handicapped.] The circulation of the country +productions and effects of all kinds among the inhabitants of the +provinces, which, properly speaking, constitutes their internal +commerce, is tolerably active and considerable. Owing to the great +facilities of conveyance afforded by the number of rivers and lakes, on +the margins of which the Filipinos are fond of fixing their dwellings, +this commerce might be infinitely greater, if it was not obstructed +by the monopoly of the magistrates in their respective districts +and the unjust prerogative, exercised by the city, of imposing +rates and arbitrary prices on the very persons who come to bring the +supplies. Nevertheless, as the iniquituous operations of the district +magistrates, however, active they may be, besides being restricted +by their financial ability, regularly consist of arrangements to buy +up only the chief articles, and those which promise most advantage, +with least trouble; as that restless inquietude which impels man on, +under the hope of bettering his condition, acts even amidst rigor of +oppression, a certain degree of stimulus and scope is still left in +favor of internal trade. + +[Inter-island traffic.] Hence it follows, that there is scarcely an +island or province, that does not carry on some traffic or other, +by keeping up relations with its neighbors, which sometimes extend +as far as the capital; where, in proportion as the produce and raw +materials find a ready market, returns suitable and adequate to the +consumption of each place, respectively, are obtained. If, however, it +would be difficult to form an idea, even in the way of approximation, +of the exchanges which take place between the various provinces, +a task that would render it necessary to enumerate them, one by one, +it is equally so to make an estimate of the total amount of this class +of operation carried on in Manila, their common center. Situated in +the bottom of an immense bay, bathed by a large river, and the country +round divided by an infinite number of streams and lakes descending +from the provinces by which the capital is surrounded, the produce and +effects are daily brought in and go out of suburbs so extended in a +diversity of small vessels and canoes, without its being possible to +obtain any exact account of the multiplicity of transactions carried +on at one and the same time, in a city built on so large a scale. + +[Local markets.] Besides the traffic founded on ordinary consumption, +the necessity of obtaining assortments of home-manufactured as well +as imported goods, in order to supply the markets, known by the name +of tianguis, and which are held weekly in almost every town, there +is another species of speculation, peculiar to the rich natives +and Sangley mestizos, an industrious race, and also possessed of +the largest portion of the specie. This consists in the anticipated +purchase of the crops of indigo, sugar, rice, etc., with a view to fix +their own prices on the produce thus contracted for, when resold to the +second hand. A propensity to barter and traffic, in all kinds of ways, +is indeed universal among the natives, and as the principal springs +which urge on internal circulation are already in motion, nothing +more is wanting than at once to destroy the obstacles previously +pointed out, and encourage the extension of luxury and comforts, +in order that, by the number of the people's wants being increased, +as well as the means of supplying them, the force and velocity of +action may in the same proportion be augmented. + +[External commerce.] Under "External Commerce" generally are comprised +the relations the Philippine Islands keep up with other nations, with +the Spanish possessions in America, and with the mother country; or, +in other words, the sum total of their imports and exports. + +[Outside deterrents.] Many are the causes which, within the last +ten or twelve years, have influenced the mercantile relations of +these Islands, and prevented their organization on permanent and +known principles. The chief one, no doubt, has been the frequent and +unforeseen changes, from peace to war, which have marked that unhappy +period, and as under similar circumstances merchants, more than +any other class of persons, are in the habit of acting on extremes, +there have been occasions in which, misled by the exaggerated idea +of the galleon of Acapulco, and anxious to avail themselves of the +first prices, generally also the highest, foreign speculators have +inundated Manila with goods, by a competition from all quarters; and +others, owing to the channels being obstructed, when this market has +experienced an absolute scarcity of commodities, as well as of funds +necessary to continue the usual and almost only branch of commerce +left. The frequent failure of the sugar and indigo crops, has also +in many instances restrained the North Americans and other neutrals +from coming to these Islands with cargoes, and induced them to prefer +Java, where they are at all times sure of finding returns. Besides +the influence of these extraordinary causes on the uncertainty +and irregularity of external commerce, no small share must also be +attributed to the strangeness of the peculiar constitution of the +country, or the principles on which its trade is established. + +[Domestic discouragements.] Scarcely will it be believed, in the +greater part of civilized Europe, that a Spanish colony exists between +Asia and America, whose merchants are forbidden to avail themselves +of their advantageous situation, and that, as a special favor only +are they allowed to send their effects to Mexico, once a year, but +under the following restrictions. It is a necessary condition, that +every shipper shall be a member of the Board of Trade (Consulado), +and therein entitled to a vote, which supposes a residence of some +years in the country, besides the possession of property of his own to +the amount of $8,000. He is compelled to join with the other members, +in order to be enabled to ship his goods in bales of a determined +form and dimensions, in one single vessel, arranged, fitted out, +and commanded by officers of the royal navy, under the character of a +war ship. He has also to contribute his proportion of $20,000, which, +in the shape of a present, are given to the commander, at the end of +every round voyage. He cannot in any way interfere in the choice or +qualities of the vessel, notwithstanding his property is to be risked +in her; and what completes the extravagance of the system, is, that +before anything is done he must pay down twenty-five or forty per cent +for freight, according to circumstances, which money is distributed +among certain canons of the church, aldermen, subalterns of the army, +and widows of Spaniards, to whom a given number of tickets or certified +permits to ship are granted, either as a compensation for the smallness +of their pay, or in the way of a privilege; but on express conditions +that, although they themselves are not members of the Board of Trade, +they shall not be allowed to negotiate and transfer them to persons +not having that quality. In the custom house nothing being admitted +unless the number of bales shipped are accompanied by corresponding +permits, and as it besides frequently happens that there is a degree +of competition between the parties seeking to try their fortune in +this way, the original holders of the permits very often hang back, +in such a manner that I have seen $500 offered for the transfer of +a right to ship three bales, which scarcely contained goods to the +amount of $1,000. Such, nevertheless, is the truth, and such the +exact description of the famous Acapulco ship, which has excited so +much jealousy among the merchants of Seville and Cadiz, and given +rise to such an infinite number of disputes and lawsuits. + +[Business irregularities.] So complete a deviation from the rules +and maxims usually received in trade, could not fail to produce +in the Philippine Islands, as in fact it has, effects equally +extraordinary with regard to those who follow this pursuit. The +merchant of Manila is, in fact, entirely different from the one in +Cadiz or Amsterdam. Without any correspondents in the manufacturing +countries and consequently possessed of no suitable advices of the +favorable variations in the respective markets, without brokers and +even without regular books he seems to carry on his profession on +no one fixed principle, and to have acquired his routine of business +from mere habit and vague custom. His contracts are made out on stamped +paper, and his bills or promissory notes no other than long and diffuse +writings or bonds, of which the dates and amounts are kept more in +the shape of bundles than by any due entry on his books; and what at +once gives the most clear idea of this irregularity is the singular +fact that, for the space of twenty-five and possibly fifty years, +only one bankrupt has presented the state of his affairs to the Board +of Trade, in conformity to the regulations prescribed by the general +Statutes of Bankruptcy, whereas, numbers of cases have occurred in +which these merchants have wasted or secreted the property of others +with impunity. Hence have arisen those irregularities, subterfuges +and disputes, in a word, the absence of all mercantile business +carried on in a scrupulously punctual and correct manner. Hence, also, +have followed that distrust and embarrassment with which commercial +operations are attended, as well as the difficulty of calculating +their fluctuations. On the other hand, as in order to send off an +expedition by the annual ship to Acapulco, the previous consent +of the majority of the incorporated merchants is necessary, before +this point is decided, months are passed in intrigues and disputes, +the peremptory period arrives, and if the articles wanted are in the +market, they are purchased up with precipitation and paid for with +the monies the shippers have been able to obtain at an interest from +the administrators of pious and charitable funds. In this manner, +compelled to act almost always without plan or concert, yet accustomed +to gain in the market of Acapulco, notwithstanding so many impediments +and the exorbitant premiums paid for the money lent, these merchants +follow the strange maxim of risking little or no property of their +own; and unaware, or rather, disregarding the importance of economy +in the expenses and regularity of their general method of living, +it is not possible they can ever accumulate large fortunes, or form +solid and well-accredited houses. + +[Merchants discouraged.] Thus oppressed by a system, as unjust as it +is absurd, and conducting their affairs in the way above described, +it is not strange that these gentlemen, at the same time yielding to +the indolence consequent on the climate, should neglect or behold with +indifference all the other secondary resources which the supplying +the wants of the country and the extensive scope and variety of its +produce offer to the man of active mind. Hence it follows, as already +observed, that the whole of the interior trade is at present absorbed +by the principal natives, the Sangley mestizos of both sexes, and a +few Chinese peddlers. + +[The outlook brightening.] Notwithstanding, however, the defective +manner in which the generality of the merchants act, some already +are beginning to distinguish themselves by the prudence of their +conduct, by forwarding, in time, their orders to the manufacturers +of India and China, and, in other respects guiding themselves by the +principles which characterize the intelligent merchant. Finally, it +is to be presumed that, as soon as the government shall have thrown +down this singular and preposterous system that has been the cause of +so many disorders, and proclaimed the unlimited freedom of Philippine +commerce, the greater part of these people will rise up from the state +of inaction in which they now live, and the relations of the colony +will then assume the course and extent corresponding to its advantages +of position. At least, if our national merchants should not act up +to the impulse given to all kinds of mercantile enterprises by the +beneficial hand of the sovereign, foreigners will not be wanting, who, +relying on due toleration, will be induced to convey their fortunes +and families to the Philippine Islands, and, vigorously encouraging +the exportation of their valuable productions, amply secure the fruits +of their laudable activity and well-combined speculations. + +[Capital employed in commerce.] Were a person, judging from the +numbers constituting the body of registered merchants, and supposing +all of them to possess the essential requisites prescribed by our +commercial regulations, to form a prudent estimate of the amount of +capital employed by them, his calculations would turn out extremely +erroneous, for besides the case with which regulations of this kind +are eluded, many are merely nominal traders, and there are others whose +mercantile existence is purely artificial for they are sustained in a +temporary manner, by means of a forced species of circulation peculiar +to this country. This consists in obtaining the acquiescence of the +administrators of pious and charitable funds, let out at interest, +to renew the bonds they hold during other successive risks, waiting, +as it were, till some fatal tempest has swallowed up the vessel in +which these merchants suppose their property to be embarked, and +at once cancel all their obligations. On the other hand, neither +excessive expenses nor the shipment of large quantities of goods to +Acapulco can in any way be taken as a just criterion whereby to judge +of the fortunes of individuals; because, in the first, there is great +uniformity, every one, more or less, enjoying, exteriorly, the same +easy circumstances, notwithstanding the disparity of real property; +and in the second, considerable fiction prevails, many persons +shipping under the same mark, and even when the shipper stands alone, +he might have been provided with the necessary funds from the pious +and charitable establishments, possibly without risking a dollar +of his own in the whole operation. Under circumstances so dubious, +far from presuming to give a decided opinion on the subject, I am +compelled to judge from mere conjectures, and guided only by the +knowledge and experience I have been able to acquire during my long +residence there. In conformity thereto, I am inclined to believe, +that the total amount of capital belonging to and employed in the +trade of the Philippine Islands, does not at present exceed two +and a half million dollars, with evident signs of rapid decline, if +the merchants do not in time abandon the ruinous systems of chiefly +carrying on their speculations with money obtained at interest. + +[Large sums hoarded.] The two and a half million dollars thus +attributed to the merchants, form, however, the smaller part of the +funds distributed among the other classes, and the total amount of +the circulating medium of the colony might be considered an object +sufficiently worthy of being ascertained, owing to the great light +it would throw on the present state of the inhabitants; but it is in +vain to attempt any calculation of the kind, at least without the aid +of data possessing a certain degree of accuracy. The only thing that +can be affirmed is, that during the period of more than two hundred +and fifty years which have elapsed since the conquest, the ingress of +specie into the Philippine Islands has been constant. Their annual +ships have seldom come from New Spain without bringing considerable +sums in return, and if some of them have been lost, many others, +without being confined to the one million of dollars constituting +the ordinary amount of the permit, have not unfrequently come back +with triple that sum; for which reason there are ample grounds of +judging the estimates correct, which fix the total importation of +dollars, during the whole of that long period of years, to be equal +to four hundred millions. It may further be observed that, as in +the Sangley mestizos economy and avarice compete with intelligence +and activity in accumulating wealth and as they are scattered, among +the principal islands, and in possession of the best lands and the +most lucrative business of the interior, there are ample motives for +presuming that these industrious and sagacious people have gradually, +although incessantly, amassed immense sums in specie; but it would +be impossible to point out their amount, distribution, or the secret +places in which they are hoarded. + +[Pious and charitable funds' capital.] The assemblage of pious +legacies, temporalities, and other funds and property placed under +the care of several administrative committees, for purposes as well +religious as charitable, constitute the chief capital employed in +external trade; and notwithstanding the failures, which from time +to time occur, the subsequent accumulation of the enormous premiums +obtained for funds laid out in maritime speculations, both in time of +peace and war, not only suffices to make up all losses of the above +kind, but also to secure the punctual payment of such charitable +pensions and other charges as are to be deducted from the respective +profits of this species of stock, its total amount, according to an +official report made by order of the head committee of the sinking +fund, including temporalities, and Queen Maria of Austria's endowment +for the College of Las Marianas, together with other funds of the same +kind, not comprehended in the decree of abolition, at the commencement +of the year 1809, amounted to $2,470,390, and as the sea-risks of that +and the following year were successful, and the outstanding amounts +punctually recovered, the aggregate sum, arising out of the above +description of property, may now be estimated at more than three +millions. Of these funds three distributions are generally made, +viz., one part is appropriated to the China risks, at from twelve +to eighteen per cent. premium, according to circumstances, and also +those to Madras, Calcutta and Batavia, at from sixteen to twenty-two +per cent. The second, which generally is in the largest proportion, +is employed in risks to Acapulco, at various premiums, from 27 to 45 +per cent.; and the third is left in hand, as a kind of guarantee of +the stability of the original endowments. + +[Coveted by Spanish treasury.] In the great exigencies of the Royal +Treasury, experienced during the last years of the administration +of Sr. Soler, the royal decree of Consolidación was extended to the +Philippine Islands, under the pretext of guarding the funds belonging +to public charities and religious endowments ... sea-risks, the +income of which, when secured on good mortgages, does not generally +exceed five per cent, many in Spain not yielding above four; but the +remarkable difference between this plan and the one above described, +together with various and other weighty reasons alleged by the +administrators, caused the dreaded effect of this new regulation to +be suspended, and whilst the head committee of Manila were consulting +their doubts and requesting fresh instructions from the court at home, +orders came out not to make any alteration in measures relating to +this description of property. + +[Easy capital but lessened profits.] Accustomed, in their limited +calculations, to identify the resources, offered by the funds belonging +to this class of establishments, with the very existence of the +colony, the needy merchants easily confound their personal with the +general interest; and few stop to consider that the identical means +of carrying on trade, without any capital of their own, although they +have accidentally enriched a small number of persons, eventually have +absorbed the principal profits, and possibly been the chief cause +of the unflourishing state of the colony at large. Without fearing +the charge of rashness, it may, in fact, be asserted, that if these +charities and pious endowments had never existed, public prosperity +in the Philippine Islands would, as in other parts, have been the +immediate effect of the united efforts of the individual members +of the community and of the experience acquired in the constant +prosecution of the same object. As, however, a progress of this kind, +although certain, must necessarily have been at first extremely +slow, and as, on the other hand, the preference given to mercantile +operations undertaken with the funds belonging to public charities, +has its origin in the assemblage of vices so remarkable in the very +organization of the body of Philippine merchants, any new measure on +this subject might be deemed inconsistent, that at once deprived them +of the use of resources on which they had been accustomed to rely, +without removing those other defects which excuse, if not encourage, +the continuation of the present system. Without, therefore, appealing +to violent remedies, it is to be hoped that, in order to render plans +of reform effectual, it will be sufficient, under more propitious +circumstances, to see property brought from other countries to these +Islands, as well as persons coming to settle in them, capable of +managing it with that intelligence and economy required by trade. The +competition of those who speculate at random would then cease, or +what is the same, as money obtained at a premium could not then be +laid out with the same advantages by the merchants as if it was their +own, it will be necessary to renounce the fallacious profits held out +by the public charities, till at least they are placed on a level +with existing circumstances, and brought in to be of real service +to the honorable planter and laborious merchant, in their accidental +exigencies, ceasing to be, as hitherto, the indirect cause of idleness, +dissipation, and the ruin of an infinite number of families. + +[Mercantile shipping.] The vessels which the district magistrates of +the provinces employ in carrying on their trade with the capital and +those belonging to some of the richer merchants, together with such as +are owned by the natives and mestizos, on an approximate calculation, +amount to twelve thousand tons, including ships, brigs, schooners, +galleys, barges, etc. For the want of better data, this estimate +is founded only on reasonable conjecture, aided by the advice of +experienced persons, for although the greatest part of these vessels +are built by the natives in the neighborhood of their own towns, no +register is kept of their number and dimensions, nor do they carry +with them the usual certificates. Those belonging to the merchants, +that is, ships and brigs of a certain size, have already begun to +frequent the ports of China, Java, the coast of Coromandel, Bengal, +and the Isle of France, availing themselves of the lucrative freights +which formerly enriched and encouraged foreign shipping. The other +class of vessels, although perfectly adequate to the coasting trade, +cannot in general be applied to larger enterprises, on account of +their not being sufficiently strong and capacious. The seamen are +not apprenticed, or as it is usually called, matriculated, but +their frequent crossing from island to island, their familiarity +with regional tempests, voyages to various parts of America, and +the occupation of fishing followed by the inhabitants of the coast, +serve to train up a large body of dexterous and able mariners who at +all times can be had, without any compulsion, to complete the crews. + +[Need of nautical school.] The want of a public school for the +teaching of navigation, is, however, sensibly felt, as well as great +inconvenience from the scarcity of persons capable of being trusted +with the command of vessels, and the ignorance that prevails of the +waters of this dangerous Archipelago. Repeated royal orders have +been sent over for the board of trade to proceed to the institution +of so useful an establishment, and in the meantime, a medium has +been resorted to in order to supply the deficiency, by allowing +the free admission of foreign mates, provided they exhibit proofs +of their acquaintance with navigation, and profess the Catholic +worship. Shipowners nevertheless experience great difficulties, +particularly at times when the Acapulco ship is fitting out, for +although she is considered as a vessel of war, and commanded by +officers of the royal navy, the plan of her equipment is so singular, +that in addition, she requires the extra aid of one chief mate, +and three under ones. + +[Royal Phillipine company.] The various modifications this corporate +body has successively experienced, have, in great measure, changed +the essence of its original constitution, and the remonstrances of +its directors, founded on the experience of a long series of years, at +length induced the government at home to sanction alterations dictated +by existing circumstances. The project of raising these Islands +from the neglected state in which they were, and in some measure to +place them in contact with the mother country, accompanied by a wish +to give a new and great impulse to the various branches of industry +which constitute the importance of a colony, could not have been more +laudable; but, as was afterwards seen, the instrument employed was +not adequate to the object in view. At the same time that the company +were charged to promote, and, by means of their funds, to vivify the +agriculture and industry of these provinces, the necessary powers +and facilities to enable them to reap the fruits of their sacrifices +were withheld. The protection granted to this establishment, did not +go beyond a general recommendation in favor of its enterprises, and, +in short, far from enjoying the exclusive preponderance obtained at +their commencement by all the other Asiatic companies, that of the +Philippine Islands labored under particular disadvantages. + +[Local progress under adverse conditions.] Notwithstanding an +organization so imperfect, scarcely had the agents of the new +Company arrived at Manila, when they distributed through the country +their numerous dependents, commissioned to encourage the natives +by advances of money. They established subaltern factories in the +Provinces of Ilocos, Bataan, Cavite, and Camarines; purchased lands; +delivered out agricultural implements; founded manufacturies of cotton +cloths; contracted for the crops of produce at very high prices; +offered rewards and, in short, they put in motion every partial +resources they were able to avail themselves of and their limited +means allowed. It would be extremely easy for me, in this place, +to enter a particular enumeration of the important services of this +kind rendered by the company, and to exhibit, in the most evident +point of view, the advantages thence derived to these Islands, +if, besides being slightly touched upon in the preceding articles, +this task had not been already ably performed by the Factor Don Juan +Francisco Urroz, in his accurate report on this subject, addressed +to the governing committee of the company, in 1803. In justice I will +nevertheless observe, that this establishment, anxiously resolved to +attain the end proposed, in spite of so many obstacles, constantly +followed up its expensive system without being disheartened; nor +did the contrarieties with which the Royal Audiencia, or High Court +of Justice, frequently paralyzed its plans, the indifference of the +governors, or the general opposition and jealousy of the other classes, +in any way tend to relax its efforts, till at length, convinced of +the impossibility of successfully contending, alone and without any +other arms than its own reduced capital; and, on the other hand, +well aware that a political body of this kind in vain seeks to unite +within itself the triple and opposite characters of agriculturalist, +manufacturer, and merchant, a determination was taken to alter the +plan, and withdraw the factories established in the provinces, and +by adopting a rigid economy and confining the operations in future +to the purchase of such produce and manufactured articles as suited +their trade, and were voluntarily brought by the natives to their +stores, the expenses of the Company were curtailed, and a plan of +reform introduced into all their speculations. By this means also +they always secured an advantageous vent for the productions of the +country, after having been the chief spring by which agriculture was +promoted and encouraged in a direct manner. + +[Handicapped in outside trade] The most beneficial reform, however, +introduced by this establishment into its system, has, in reality, +been derived from the variation or rather correction of its plans and +enterprises, purely maritime. The government being desirous to increase +the relations of this colony by every possible means, and to convert it +into a common center of all the operations of the new company, at first +required of the agents that the purchases and collection of goods from +the coast of Coromandel, Bengal, and China, destined for Spain, should +take place at Manila, either by purchasing the articles in that market, +or through the medium of previous contracts to deliver them there. From +this it is easy to infer, that the company was infallibly exposed to +the harsh terms the respective contractors sought to impose upon them, +as well with regard to prices as qualities, unless, in many cases, +they preferred being left without the necessary assortments. Hence may +it, without the smallest exaggeration, be affirmed, that, summing up +all the surcharges under which the shipments left the port of Manila, +and comparing them with those which might have been sent direct from +the above-mentioned points, and without so extraordinary a détour +as the one prescribed by law, the difference that followed in the +prime cost of the cargos was not less than 80 per cent. The urgent +manner, however, in which the directors of the company did not +cease to deplore and complain of so evident a hardship, at length +had the desired effect, and after existing ten or twelve years, so +preposterous a system was successfully overthrown, and permission +obtained from the king for the establishment of Spanish factories in +the neighborhood of the China and India manufactures, as well as the +power of addressing shipments direct to those foreign dominions. The +enlightened policy of their respective governments did not allow them +to hesitate in giving a favorable reception to our factors and vessels, +and the purchases and shipments of Asiatic goods being thus realized +without the old obstructions, the Company was reasonably led to hope +being able soon to increase its operations, and progressively present +more satisfactory results to the shareholders, when those political +convulsions succeeding soon after, which have unhinged or destroyed +all the ordinary relations of trade, compelled them to abandon their +hopes, till the wished-for calm should be again restored. + +[Temporary expedient of 1803.] In consequence of the new character +and route given to the commercial enterprises of the Company, as +authorized by a royal decree of July 12, 1803, the functions of +the Manila factors were reduced to the annual shipment of a cargo +of Asiatic goods to Peru, valued at $500,000, but only as long +as the war lasted, and till the expiration of the extraordinary +permits granted through the goodness of the king, and also to the +transmitting to China and Bengal of the specie brought from America, +and the collecting of certain quantities of indigo, sugar, or other +produce of the Islands, with a view to gain by reselling it in the +same market. Consequently, the moment things return to their pacific +and ordinary course, will be the period when the necessity of the +future existence of this establishment will cease, or at least, +when the propriety will be evident of its reform or assimilation to +the other commission houses, carrying on trade in Vera Cruz, Mexico, +etc., which, not being hired establishments, do not create expenses +when they cease to transact business. + +[Competition of foreign merchants.] Against a measure of this kind +it would be useless to allege, that, "by the exclusive privilege to +introduce spirits and European effects into the colony, the Company +has contracted the obligation of always keeping it properly supplied; +that their very institution had for the basis the general improvement +of the Islands, and in order duly to comply with these duties, it +becomes indispensably necessary to keep up the present expensive +establishment;" for, in the first place, in order, to render it +incumbent on the company to introduce an indefinite quantity of +European articles, it previously would be necessary to provide a vent +for them, and this can never be the case, unless the exclusion of all +competitors in the market is rigorously carried into effect. As things +now are, the North Americans, English, French, and every other nation +that wishes, openly usurped this privilege, by constantly inundating +the Islands with spirits and all kinds of effects, and it is very +evident that this same abuse which authorizes the infraction of the +above privilege, if in that light it could in any way be considered, +totally exonerates the company from all obligations by them contracted +under a different understanding. Besides, the circumstances which +have taken place since the publication of the royal decree, creating +the above establishment into a corporate body, in the year 1785, +have entirely changed the order established in this respect. In the +first place, the port of Manila has been opened to foreign nations, +in consequence of the disinterested representations of the company +itself, and for the direct advantage of general trade; nor was it +necessary to prevent our new guests from abusing the facilities thus +granted to them, and much less to confine them to the mere introduction +of Asiatic goods, the original plea made use of. In the second, as +soon as the inhabitants of the Philippine Islands became familiar with +the more useful and elegant objects of convenience and luxury, which +they were enabled to purchase from foreigners, at reasonable prices, +it was natural for them to pay little regard to the superfluous aid +of the company, more particularly when the latter were no longer +able to sustain the competition, either in the sale or supply of a +multitude of articles, which, thanks to our own national simplicity, +are scarcely known in Spain, whence their outward-bound cargoes are +divided. Hence it follows that, far from the importation and supplies +of the company being missed, it may with great reason be presumed, +that this formal renunciation of this ideal privilege of theirs, +must rather have contributed to secure, in a permanent manner, +adequate supplies for all the wants and whims of the inhabitants of +the colony; and that the publicity of such a determination would act +as a fresh allurement successively to bring to the port of Manila a +host of foreign speculators, anxious to avail themselves of a fresh +opening for commercial pursuits. + +[Company not a philanthropy.] The other objection, founded on the +mistaken notion of its being inherent in, and belonging to, the very +essence of the company, to promote the general improvement of the +Philippine Islands, if well considered, will appear equally unjust. It +is, in fact, a ridiculous, although too generally received, a prejudice +to suppose, that the founders of this establishment proposed to +themselves the plan of sinking the money of the shareholders in +clearing the lands, and perfecting the rude manufactures of these +distant Islands. To imagine this to have been one of the principal +objects of the institution, or to suppose that, on this hard condition, +their various privileges and exemptions were granted to them, is so +far from the reality of the fact, that it would only be necessary +to read with attention the 26th article of the quoted royal decree +of creation, in order more correctly to comprehend the origin and +constitutive system of this political body. + +"The latter," says the Duke de Almodovar, "is reduced to two principal +points: the first of which is the carrying of the trade of Asia +with that of America and Europe; and the second, the encouragement +and improvement of the productions and manufacturing industry of +the Islands. The one is the essential attribute of the company, +constituting its real character of a mercantile society; and, in the +other respect, it becomes an auxiliary of the government, to whom +the duties alluded to more immediately belong." If to the above we +add the preamble of the 43rd article of the new decree of 1803, the +recommendation, made to the company, to contribute to the prosperity +of the agriculture and manufacturing industry of the Islands, will +appear as a limited and secondary consideration; for even if the +question were carried to extremes, it could never extend to any more +than the application of four per cent of the annual profits of the +company indistinctly to both branches. If, however, any doubts still +remained, the explanation or solution recently given to this question +would certainly remove them; because, by the simple fact of its being +expressed in the latter part of the aforesaid 43rd article, [Profit +percent to go to Spain.] "That the above-mentioned four per cent was to +be laid out, with the king's approbation, in behalf of the agriculture +and manufacturing industry of Spain and the Philippine Islands," it is +clear that the king reserves and appropriates to himself the investment +of the amount to be deducted from the general dividends, in order to +apply it where and how may be deemed most advisable. Consequently, +far from considering the company in that respect under an obligation to +contribute to the improvement of the Philippines exclusively, the only +thing that can be required of them, when their charter is withdrawn, +is, the repayment to the royal treasury of the four per cent on their +profits, for a purpose so vaguely defined. In following up this same +train of argument, it would seem that, in order to render the amount +to be deducted from the eventual profits of the company, in the course +of time, a productive capital in the hands of the sovereign, the funds +of the society not only ought not to be diverted to the continuation +of projects which consume them, but, on the contrary, it is necessary +to place at their disposal the direct means by which these funds can +be increased, in order to make up to the company in some measure the +enormous losses experienced of late years, and at once free their +commerce from the shackles with which it has hitherto been obstructed. + +[Need of special privileges] Finally, after twenty-four years of +impotent and gratuitous efforts in the Philippines, and of the most +obstinate opposition on the part of their rivals, it is now time for +the company, by giving up the ungrateful struggle, to reform in every +respect their expensive establishment in Manila, and to direct their +principal endeavors to carry into effect the project so imperfectly +traced out in the new decree of 1803. The opinion of the most vehement +enemies of the privileged bodies tacitly approves this exception in +their favor. Adam Smith, avowedly hostile to all monopolies, feels +himself compelled to confess that, "without the incentives which +exclusive companies offer to the individuals of a nation carrying +on little trade, possibly their confined capitals would cease to be +destined to the remote and uncertain enterprises which constitute a +commerce with the East Indies." + +[Spanish commerce in its infancy.] Our commerce, compared with that +of other nations, notwithstanding what may be said on this subject, +is most assuredly yet in a state of infancy. That with Asia, more +especially, with the exception of the Royal Company, is almost unknown +to all other classes. If it is, therefore, wished to exclude our many +rivals from so lucrative a branch of trade as that which constitutes +supplies for the consumption of the Peninsula and its dependencies, the +means are obvious. The most material fact is in fact already done. The +navigation to the various ports of Asia is familiar to the company's +navy; their factors and clerks have acquired a practical knowledge of +that species of trade, essential to the undertaking, as well as such +information as was at first unknown; but, after the great misfortune +this body has experienced, it will be indispensably necessary to aid +and invigorate them with large supplies of money, following the example +of other governments in similar cases; in order that the successful +issue of their future operations may compensate their past losses, +and worthily correspond with the magnitude of the object. + +[Philippines a burden to Spain.] This Asiatic colony, although +considered as conferring great lustre on the crown and name of our +monarch, by exhibiting the vast extent of the limits of his dominions, +has in reality been, during a long series of years, a true burden +to the government, or at least, a possession whose chief advantages +have redounded in favor of other powers, rivals of our maritime +importance. Notwithstanding all that has been said on the score of +real utility, certain it is, that the Philippine establishment has +cost the treasury large sums of money; although, within the last +twenty-five or thirty years, it must be confessed that the public +revenues has experienced a considerable increase, and, of itself, +has become an object of some consequence to the state. + +[Profit from tobacco monopoly and foreign trade.] Among the various +causes which have contributed to produce so favorable an alteration, +the chief one have been the establishment of the tobacco monopoly, +on behalf of the crown, and the opening of the port of Manila to the +flag of other nations, at peace with Spain. The first has considerably +increased the entries into the public treasury, and the second +has tended to multiply the general mass of mercantile operations, +independent of the other beneficial effects this last measure must +have produced in a country, whose resources, trade and consumption +had, from the time of the conquest, experienced the fatal shackles +imposed by jealousy and ignorance. + +[Improvement in public finances.] The improved aspect the colony +soon assumed, by the introduction of this new system, as was natural, +awakened the attention of ministers, and induced them more easily to +consent to the measures subsequently proposed to them, principally +intended to place those distant dominions on a footing of permanent +security, so as to enable them to repel any fresh attempts on the part +of an enemy. As, however, the productions of the country increased, +the public expenses also became greater, although always in a much +smaller proportion, with the exception of the interval between the +years 1797 and 1802, when the government, fearful of a second invasion, +was compelled, at its own expense, to provide against the danger with +which these Islands were then threatened. If, therefore, as appears +from the official reports of the treasurer-general, Larzabal, in my +possession, the receipts at the treasury, in 1780, amounted only to +$700,000 including the situado, or annual allowance for the expenses +of government sent from New Spain, and after the ordinary charges of +administration had been paid, a surplus of $170,000 remained in the +hands of the treasurer; at present we have the satisfaction to find +that the revenue is equal to $2,625,176.50 and the expenses do not +exceed $2,179,731.87 by which means an annual surplus of $445,444.62 +is left, applicable to the payment of the debt contracted during the +extraordinary period above mentioned, now reduced to about $900,000 and +afterwards transferable to the general funds belonging to the crown. + +[Economy over Spanish-American colonial administration.] With regard +to the administrative system, it is in every respect similar to the +one observed in our governments of America, with this difference only, +that, in the Philippine Islands, greater economy prevails in salaries, +as well as in the number of persons employed. In former times, the +establishment of intendencies, or boards of administration, was deemed +expedient in Manila, Ilocos, Camarines, Iloilo, and Cebu; but they +were soon afterwards reformed, or rather laid aside, on account of +their being deemed superfluous. I would venture to state the grounds +on which this opinion was then formed; but, as the sphere in which +the king's revenue acts in these Islands increases and extends, which +naturally will be the case if the plans and improvements dictated +by the present favorable circumstances are carried into effect, I do +not hesitate to say that it will be necessary again to appeal to the +establishment of a greater number of boards for the management and +collection of the various branches of the revenue, whether they are +called intendencies, or by any other name; as it will be extremely +difficult for the administration to do its duty, on the confined and +inadequate plan under which it is at present organized. + +[Fiscal system.] Under its existing form, it is constituted in the +following manner: The governor of the Islands, in his quality of +superintendent or administrator general, and as uniting in himself +the powers of intendent of the army, presides at the board of +administration of the king's revenue, which is placed in the immediate +charge of a treasurer and two clerks. The principal branches have their +respective general directors, on whom the provincial administrators +depend, and the civil magistrates, in the quality of sub-delegates, +collect within their respective districts, the tributes paid by the +natives in money and produce, and manage everything else relating +to the king's revenue. In ordinary cases, the general laws of the +Indies govern, and especially are the ordinances or regulations of +the Intendents of New Spain (Mexico) ordered to be observed in the +Philippines. It ought further to be observed, that, in these Islands, +the same as in all the vice-royalties and governments of America, there +is a distinct body of royal decrees in force, which, in themselves, +constitute a code of considerable size. + +[Opposition to tobacco monopoly.] The process of converting the +consumption of tobacco into a monopoly met with a most obstinate +resistance on the part of the inhabitants, and the greatest +circumspection and constancy were necessary for the governor, Don +José Basco, to carry this arduous enterprise into effect. Accustomed +to the cultivation of this plant without any restriction whatever, +and habituated to its use from their infancy, it appeared to the people +the extreme of rashness to seek simultaneously to extirpate it from the +face of the greatest part of the Island of Luzon, in order to confine +its culture within the narrow limits of a particular district. They +were equally revolted at the idea of giving to a common article a +high and arbitrary value, when, besides, it had become one of the +first necessity. Every circumstance, however, being dispassionately +considered, and the principle once admitted that it was expedient for +the colony to maintain itself by means the least burdensome to the +inhabitants, it certainly must be acknowledged that, although odious +on account of its novelty and defective in the mode of its execution, +a resource more productive and at the same time less injurious, could +not have been devised. Hence was it that the partisans of the opposite +system were strangely misled, by founding their calculation on false +data, when they alleged that a substitute, equivalent to the increased +revenue supposed to arise out of the monopoly of tobacco, might have +been resorted to by ordering a proportionate rise in the branch of +tributes. In fact, no one who had the least experience in matters of +this kind, can be ignorant of the open repugnance the natives have +always evinced to the payment of the ordinary head-tax (cedula), +and the broils to which its collection has given rise. Besides, +if well examined, no theory is more defective and more oppressive +on account of the disparity with which it operates, than this same +wrongly-boasted impost; for, however desirous it may be to simplify +the method of collecting the general revenue of a state, if the best +plan is to be adopted, that is, if public burdens are to be rendered +the least obnoxious, it is necessary preferably to embrace the system +of indirect contribution, in which class, to a certain degree, the +monopoly of all those articles may be considered as included which are +not rigorously of the first necessity, and only compel the individual +to contribute when his own will induce him to become a consumer. + +[Doubling of insular revenue thru tobacco.] Let this be as it may, +certain it is, that to Governor Basco we are indebted for having +doubled the annual amount of the revenue of these Islands, by merely +rendering the consumption of tobacco subservient to the wants of the +crown. It was he who placed these Islands in the comfortable situation +of being able to subsist without being dependent on external supplies +of money to meet the exigencies of government. It ought, however, to +be remarked that, although they have been in the habit of receiving +the annual allowance of $250,000 for which a standing credit was +opened by the government at home on the general treasury of New +Spain, considerable sums have, nevertheless, on various occasions, +been remitted from the Philippines to Spain, through the channel of +the Captain-General. * * * If these remittances have been suspended +for some years past, it has evidently been owing to the imperious +necessity of applying the ordinary proceeds of the revenue, as well +as other extraordinary means, to unforeseen contingencies arising +out of peculiar circumstances. + +[Tobacco belt.] The planting and cultivation of tobacco are now +confined to the district of Gapan, in Pampanga Province, to that of +Cagayan, and to the small Island of Marinduque. The amount of the +crops raised in the above three points and sold to the king, may, +on an average, be estimated at fifty thousand bales, grown in the +following proportion: Gapan, forty-seven thousand bales; Cagayan, +two thousand, and Marinduque, one thousand. This stock, resold at the +monopoly prices, yields a sum equal to about one million of dollars, +and deducting therefrom the prime cost and all other expenses, +legally chargeable on this branch, the net proceeds in favor of the +revenue amount to $550,000 or upwards of one hundred twenty-two per +cent. This profit is so much more secure, as it rests on the positive +fact that, however great the quantity of the article sold furtively and +by evading the vigilance of the guards, as the demand and consumption +are excessive and always exceed the stock on hand, a ready sale cannot +fail to be had for all the stock placed in the hands of the agents +of the monopoly. From this it may also be inferred how much the net +proceeds of this branch would be increased, if without venturing too +far in extending the plantations and consequent purchases, care was +taken to render the supplies more proportionate to the consumption; +for, by a clear profit of one hundred twenty-two per cent, falling +on a larger capital, it follows that a corresponding result would +be obtained. In a word, the sales, far from declining or being in +any way deemed precarious, are susceptible of a great increase, +consequently this branch of revenue merits the serious attention of +government beyond all others. + +[Defective sales system.] It is, however, to be lamented that, +instead of every facility being given to the sale of tobacco and the +consumption thus encouraged, the public meet with great difficulties +and experience such frequent obstacles and deficiencies in the +supplies, that with truth it may also be said, the sales are affected +in spite of the administrators themselves. In the capital alone it +is a generally received opinion that a third part more would there +be consumed, if, instead of compelling the purchaser to receive the +tobacco already manufactured or folded, he was allowed to take it from +the stores in its primitive state; and if the minor establishments +in the provinces were constantly supplied with good qualities, an +infinitely larger quantity might be sold, and by this means a great +deal of smuggling also prevented. Such, however, is the neglect and +irregularity in this department, that it frequently happens in towns +somewhat distant from Manila, no other tobacco is to be met with +than what the smugglers sell, and if, perchance, any is to be found +in the monopoly stores, it is usually of the worst quality that can +be imagined. + +[Loss from preventable causes.] I pass over, in silence, the other +defects gradually introduced, as evils, in a greater or lesser degree, +inseparable from this part of public administration in every country +in which it has been deemed necessary to establish monopolies; but I +cannot refrain from again insisting on the urgency with which those +in power ought to devote themselves, firmly and diligently, to the +destruction of abuses which have hitherto paralyzed the progress of +the branch in question, because I am well persuaded, that, whenever +corresponding means are adopted, it will be possible in a short +time to double the proceeds. What these means are, it is not easy, +nor indeed essential, to particularize in a rapid sketch, like this, +of the leading features and present state of the Philippine Islands. I +shall, therefore, merely remark, that it will be in vain to wish the +persons engaged in the management of this department to exert their +real zeal and sincerely co-operate in the views of government, as +long as they are not placed beyond the necessity of following other +pursuits and gaining a livelihood in another way; in a word, unless +they have a salary assigned them, corresponding to the confidence and +value of the important object entrusted to their charge, no plan of +reform can be rendered efficient. + +[Abuses by revenue officers.] At the same time steps are taken to +augment the revenue arising out of tobacco, it would be desirable, +as much as possible, to improve the methods used with regard to those +who gather in the crops, by endeavoring to relieve them from the heavy +conditions imposed upon them; conditions which, besides exposing them +to the odious effects of revenue-laws, by their very nature bring upon +them many unpleasant consequences, and often total ruin. In order that +a correct opinion may be formed of these defects, it will suffice to +observe that, under pretext of preventing smuggling, the guards and +their agents watch, visit, and, if I may use the expression, live +among the plantations from the moment the tobacco-seedlings appear +above ground, till the crops are gathered in. After compelling the +Filipino planter to cut off the head of the stem, in order that the +plant may not become too luxurious, the surveyors then proceed to +set down, not only the number of plants cultivated on each estate, +but even the very leaves of each, distinguishing their six qualities, +in order to call the farmers to account, respectively, when they +make a defective delivery into the general stores. In the latter +case, they are compelled to prove the death of the plants and even +to account for the leaves missing when counted over again, under the +penalty of being exposed to the rigor of the revenue laws. + +[Burdensome and unprofitable inspection.] It cannot indeed be denied +that by this means two important objects are attained, at one and the +same time; the one, the gradual improvement of the tobacco, and the +other, the greater difficulty of secreting the article; but, on the +other hand, how great are the inconveniences incurred? Independent of +the singularity and consequent oppression of a regulation of this kind, +as well as its too great minuteness and complication, it is attended +with very considerable expenses, and renders it necessary to keep on +foot a whole army of guards and clerks, who tyrannize over and harass +the people without any real motive for such great scrupulosity and +profusion. I make this observation because I cannot help thinking +that the same results might nearly be obtained, by adopting a more +simple and better regulated system. I am not exactly aware of the one +followed in the Island of Cuba, but as far as I understand the matter, +it is simply reduced to this: the growers there merely present their +bales to the inspectors, and if pronounced to be sound and good, the +stipulated amount is paid over to them; but if the quality is bad, +the whole is invariably burnt. Thus all sales detrimental to the +public revenue are prevented, and I do not see why the same steps +could not be taken in the Philippine Islands. It must not, however, +be understood, that I presume to speak in a decisive tone on a subject +so extremely delicate, and that requires great practical information, +which, I readily acknowledge, I do not possess. I merely wish by means +of these slight hints, to contribute to the commencement of a reform +in abuses, and to promote the adoption of a plan that may have for +basis the relief of the growers, and at the same time advance the +prosperity of this part of the royal revenue. + +[Coco and nipa wine monopoly.] The monopoly of coco and nipa, or +palm-wine, is a branch of public revenue of sufficient magnitude to +merit the second place among the resources rendered available to +the expenditure of these Islands, converted into a monopoly some +years ago. In like manner as the consumption of tobacco, it has +experienced several changes in its plan of administration, this +being at one time carried on, for account of the king, at others, +by the privilege being let out at auction; till at length the Board +of Control, convinced of the great profit gained by the contractors, +resolved at once to take the direction of this departure under their +own charge, and make arrangement for its better administration. Having +with this view established general deposits and licensed houses for +the sale of native wine, with proper superintending clerks they soon +began to reap the fruits of so judicious a determination. In 1780, +the privilege of selling the coco and nipa wine was farmed out, to the +highest bidder, for no more than $45,200 and subsequently the increase +has been so great, owing to the improvements adopted, that at present +net proceeds equal to $200,000 on an average may be relied upon. In +proof of this, the proceeds of this branch, in the year 1809, may be +quoted, when the total balances received at the Treasury, after all +expenses had been paid, amounted to $221,426, in the following manner: + + +Administration of Manila and district $201,250 +Administration of La Pampanga and district 12,294 +Administration of Pangasinan and district 7,882 + ---- + $221,426 + + +The prime cost and other expenses that year amounted to no more than +$168,557 by which means, on the whole operation, a net profit of +thirteen and one-half per cent. resulted in favor of the treasury. + +[Wine monopoly district.] The monopoly of native wine comprehends +the whole of the Island of Luzon, excepting the Provinces of Cagayan, +Zambales, Nueva Ecija, Camarines and Albay, and is under the direction +of three administrators, who act independently of each other in their +respective districts, and have at their disposal a competent number +of guards. These administrators receive in the licensed establishments +the coco and nipa wines, at prices stipulated by the growers. That of +the coco is paid for at the rate of two dollars per jar, containing +twenty gantas, equal to twelve arrobas, seven azumbres and half a +cuartillo, Castilian measure, and at fourteen reals in the places +nearest the depots. The nipa wine is laid at six and one-half reals +the jar, indistinctly; prices which, although extremely low, are still +considered advantageous by the Filipinos themselves, more particularly +when it is besides understood, that, from the circumstance of their +being growers of this article, they are exempted from military service, +as well as several other taxes and public charges. + +[Coco-wine.] The coco-wine is a weak spirit, obtained in the following +manner: The tree that produces this fruit is crowned by an assemblage +of large flowers or corollas, from the center or calix of which issues +a fleshy stem, filled with juice. The Indian cuts the extremity of +this stem, and inclining the remainder in a lateral manner, introduces +it into a large hollow tube which remains suspended, and is found +full of sweet and sticky liquor, which the tree in this manner yields +twice in every twenty-four hours. ["Tuba".] This liquid, called tuba, +in the language of the country, is allowed to ferment for eight days +in a large vessel, and afterwards distilled by the Indians in their +uncouth stills, which are no other than large boilers, with a head +made of lead or tin, rendered tight by means of clay, and with a +pipe frequently made out of a simple cane, which conveys the spirit +to the receiving vessels, without passing, like the serpentine tube +used in ordinary stills, through the cooling vats, which so greatly +tends to correct the vices of a too quick evaporation. The tuba, +obtained in level and hot situations, is much more spirituous than +that produced in cold and shady places. In the first, six jars of +juice are sufficient to yield one of spirit, and in the latter, +as many as eight are requisite; a much greater number, however, +would be wanted to rectify this spirit so as to render it equal to +what is usually known by Hollands proof. I am not positively certain +what degree of strength the coco-brandy, or as it is usually called +coco-wine, possesses, but it is evidently inferior to the weakest made +in Spain from the juice of the grape. The only circumstance required +for it to be approved of, and received into the monopoly-stores, +is its being easily ignited by the application of a lighted candle. + +[Nipa brandy.] The nipa is a small tree of the class of palms, which +grows in a very bushy form, and multiplies and prospers greatly on +the margins of rivers and watery tracts of land. The tuba, or juice, +is extracted from the tree whilst in its flowering state, in the same +way as that of the coco, and afterwards distilled by a similar process; +but it is more spirituous, from six to six and a half jars being +sufficient to yield one of wine. The great difference remarked in the +prices of these two species of liquor, arises out of the great number +of uses to which the fruit of the cocal or coco tree is applicable, +and the increase of expense and labor requisite to obtain the juice, +owing to the great height of the plant, and the frequent dangers to +which the caritones, or gatherers, are exposed in passing from one +tree to another, which they do by sliding along a simple cane (bamboo). + +[Little drunkenness.] The impost on, or rather monopoly of, native +wine, is in itself little burdensome to the community, as it only +falls on the lower and most dissipated orders in society, and for this +reason it is not susceptible of the same increase as that of tobacco, +of which the use is more general, and now become an object of the +first necessity. The native of the Philippine Islands is, by nature, +so sober, that the spectacle of a drunken man is seldom noticed in +the streets; in the capital, where the most corrupt classes of them +reside, it is admirable to see the general abstinence from a vice +that degrades the human species. The consumption of the coco and +nipa wine is, nevertheless, considerable, for it is used in all their +festivities, cock-fights, games, marriages, etc. Accordingly if it is +desired to augment the annual sale of these liquors, no way could be +more efficient than to increase the number of their festive meetings, +and seek pretexts to encourage public diversions, so long as these do +not go contrary to the well-regulated order of society, and conflict +with the duties of those who are intrusted with its superintendence. + +[Extension of monopoly urged.] I am still of opinion, however, that, +without resting the prosperity of this branch of the public revenue on +principles possessed of so immoral a tendency, it might be rendered +more productive to the treasury, if the monopoly could be introduced +into the other districts adapted to its establishment. By this I +mean to say that, as hitherto the monopoly has been partial, and +enforced more in the way of a trial than in a general and permanent +manner, much remains to be done, and consequently great scope is +left for improvement in this department of the public revenue. This +most assuredly may be attained, if all the local circumstances and +impediments, more or less superable, which the matter itself presents, +are only taken into due account, and proper exertions made to study +and discover the various indirect means of increasing the total mass +of contributions, by applying a system more productive and analogous +to the nature of the Philippine Islands. With regard to the revenue of +the two particular articles above treated on, I merely wish to make +it understood that, far from introducing by means of the monopoly, +a new vice into the provinces in which I recommend its establishment, +it would rather act, in a certain degree at least, as a corrective +to pre-existing evils, and the government would derive advantages +from an article of luxury, by subjecting its consumption to the +same shackles under which it stands in the northern provinces, where +its administration is established and carried on for account of the +royal treasury. + +[Former customs usage.] In former times, when only vessels belonging to +the Asiatic nations visited the port of Manila, with effects from the +coast of Coromandel, or the China junks, and now and then a Spanish +vessel coming from or going to the Island of Java, with spices for +account of Philippine merchants, the receipt of duties was left in +charge of a single royal officer, and the valuations of merchandise +made by him, in concert with two merchants named by the government; but +with the knowledge and assistance of the king's attorney-general. The +modifications and changes which have subsequently taken place in this +department have, however, been frequent, as is evidently shown by the +historical extract from the proceedings instituted before the Council +of the Indies, by the merchants of Seville and Cadiz, in opposition to +those of the Philippine Islands, printed in Madrid, 1736, in folio, +by order of the said council; but as it does not enter into my views +to speak of times so remote, I shall confine my remarks to this branch +considered under its present form. + +[Custom house.] In conformity to royal orders of March 15 and May 5, +1786, the Royal Custom House of Manila was definitively organized on +its new plan; and from 1788, was placed under the immediate charge +of an administrator-general, a controller, a treasurer, aided by a +competent number of guards, inspectors, etc., and in every respect +regulated on the plan established in the other custom houses. The +freedom of the port being granted to foreign nations, a privilege +before enjoyed only by those purely Asiatic, and a new line of trade +commenced by the company, the competition in merchandise soon began +to increase, as well as the revenue arising therefrom, in such manner +that, although the exportation of goods was limited to the cargo of +the Acapulco ship, of which the duties are not payable till her arrival +there; notwithstanding also the property imported by the company from +China and India, and destined for their own shipments, was exempt +from duties, and above all, the continual interruptions experienced +by the maritime commerce of the Islands within the last fifteen or +twenty years, the net proceeds of the custom house, from the period +above mentioned of its establishment, till the close of 1809, have not +been less than from $138,000 to $140,000, on an average, independent +of the amount of the king's fifth on the gold of the country, which +is collected by the same administrator, in consequence of its being +trivial; as well as the two per cent. belonging to the Board of Trade, +and by them collected under that title, and afterwards separately +applied to the average-fund and which usually may be estimated from +$20,000 to $25,000. + +The general duties now levied in the custom house, are the following: + +[Port charges and duties.] Six per cent. almojarisfago is on all +kinds of merchandise imported in foreign bottoms, under a valuation +made by the surveyors, in conformity to the respective prices of +the market at the time on importation; it usually is regulated by +an increase of 50% on the prime cost of India goods, and of 33 1/3% +on those from China. This duty may be considered as, in fact, equal +to nine per cent on the former, and eight on the latter. + +Six per cent, or the same duty, on all foreign goods, although imported +in national bottoms. + +Three per cent on Spanish goods, imported under the national flag, +equal, according to the above estimate to 4 and 4 1/2%. + +Two per cent Board of Trade duty, indistinctly on all foreign property, +equivalent to 2 1/2 or 3%. + +Twenty-five per cent anchorage dues, levied on the total amount of +the almojarisfago duty. + +An additional of two and one-half per cent, a new and temporary duty, +called subvencion, appropiated to the payment of the loan made to +the king by the Cadiz Board of Trade, and leviable on all kinds of +imported goods, and, of course, equal, according to the usual mode +of valuation, to about three per cent. + +Three per cent on the exportation of coined silver and gold of the +country, in dust and, ingots. + +An additional or duty of subvencion, or temporary duty on the above, +equal to one-half per cent. + +One and a half per cent under the same rate, on all kinds of goods, +and equal to two or two and one half per cent. + +One and one-half per cent on the amount of the cargo of the Acapulco +ship, on leaving the port of Manila, equal to 3/4% on the real +prime cost. + +[Slight concession to the Company.] The company are considered in +the same light as the rest of the merchants, in the graduation and +payment of duties, on such goods as they sell out of their own stores +for local consumption, to the Company, with the exemption only of +the Board of Trade rate of 2% and 3%, on the exportation of silver, +according to a special privilege, and in conformity to the 61st +Article of the new royal decree of 1803. + +Besides the duties above enumerated, there is another trifling one +established for local purposes of peso merchante, being a rate for the +use of the king's scales, levied according to an extremely equitable +tariff, on certain articles only of solid weight, such as iron, copper, +etc. The raw materials as well as all kinds of manufactured articles, +belonging to the Islands, are exempt from duties on their entry in +the port and river of Manila; but some of the first are subject to +the most unjust of all exactions, that is, to an arbitrary tax and +to the obligation of being retailed out on board the vessels in which +they have been brought down, and deliverable only to persons bearing +a written order, signed by the sitting members of the municipal +corporation. Among this class of articles may be mentioned the coco +of Cebu and the wax and oil of the Bisayas, which are rated as objects +of the first necessity. + +[Undervaluation of galleon goods.] With regard to the respective +duties on the cargo annually dispatched by the merchants of Manila +to New Spain, the practice of galleon is tolerably well regulated. An +extreme latitude is given to the moderate rates at which it is ordered +to value the goods contained in the manifest, by which means these are +frequently put down at only one-half of their original prime cost; +the commission to frame the scale of valuations which is to be in +force for five years, after which time it is renewed, being left +to three merchants, and made subject to the revision of the king's +attorney-general (fiscal) and the approbation of the governor; +consequently, such being the nature of the tariff on which these +operations are founded, the 33 1/3% to which the royal duties amount +on the $500,000 stipulated in the permit, does not, in fact, affect +the shipper beyond the rate of 15 per cent, in consequence of the +great difference between the prime cost and valuation of the articles +corresponding to the permit; or, what is the same thing, between +the $500,000 nominal value, and $1,100,000 or $1,200,000, the real +amount of the cargo in question. The most remarkable circumstance, +however, is, that the officers of the revenue in Acapulco collect +the above-mentioned 33 1/3% in absolute conformity to the Manila +valuation, and not according to the value of the goods in America, +and without any other formality than a comparison of the cargo with +the ship's papers. In honor of truth, it ought to be further observed +that, although the Manila merchant by this means seeks to exempt +himself from the part of the enormous duties with which it has been +attempted to paralyze the only commercial intercourse he carries on +with New Spain, in every other respect connected with this operation, +he acts in a sufficiently legal manner, and if at their return those +vessels have been in the habit of bringing back near a million of +dollars in a smuggled way, it must be acknowledged that it is the +harshness of the law which compels the merchant to become a smuggler; +for according to the strange regulation by which he is thwarted in the +returns representing the proceeds of his outward operation, he must +either bring the money to the Philippine Islands without having it +declared on the ship's papers, or be obliged to leave the greatest +part of it in the hands of others, subject to such contingencies +as happen in trade. As long, therefore, as the present limitations +subsist, which only authorize returns equal to double the value of +the outward-bound cargo, this species of contraband will inevitably +continue. The governors also, actuated by the principles of reason +and natural justice, will, as they have hitherto done, wink at the +infraction of the fiscal laws; a forbearance, in fact, indirectly +beneficial to them, inasmuch as it eventually contributes to the +general improvement of the colony. Indeed, without this species of +judicious condescension, trade would soon stand still for the want +of the necessary funds to carry it on. + +[Unbusinesslike custom ways.] .... It will readily be acknowledged +that, in like manner as the good organization of custom houses is +favorable to the progress of general commerce, so nothing is more +injurious to its growth and the enterprise of merchants, than any +uncertainty or arbitrary conduct in the levying of duties to be +paid by them. This arises out of the circumstance of every merchant, +entering on a new speculation, being anxious to have, as the principal +ground work of his combinations, a perfect knowledge of the exact +amount of his disbursements, in order to be enabled to calculate the +final result with some degree of certainty. Considered in this point +of view, the system adopted in the Islands is certainly deplorable, +since it must be acknowledged that the principles and common rules of +all other commercial countries, are there unknown. For example; this +year a cargo arrives from China or Bengal, and the captain turns in +his manifest. The custom-house surveyors then commence the valuation +of the goods of which his cargo is composed: I say they commence, +because it is a common thing for them not to have finished the estimate +of the scale and amount of corresponding duties, till the expiration +of two, four, and not unfrequently six months. The rule they affect to +follow, in this valuation, is that of the prices current in the market, +and in order to ascertain what these are, they are seen going round +inquiring in the shops of the Sangleys (Chinese), till at length, +finding it useless to go in search of correct and concurrent data, +in a place where there are neither brokers nor public auctions, they +are forced to determine in an arbitrary manner, and as the adage goes, +always take good care to see their employers on the right side of the +hedge. The grand work being ended, with all this form and prolixity, +the sentence of the surveyors is irrevocable. The bondsman of the +captain, who, in the meanwhile, has usually sold his cargo and departed +with a fresh one for another destination, pays in the amount of the +duties, thus regulated by law. + +[Variations in valuations.] The practical defects and injurious +consequences of such a system as this, it would be unnecessary +to particularize. It would, however, be less intolerable, if, +once put in force, it could serve the merchant as a guide in the +valuations of his property for a determined number of successive +years. What, however, renders this assessment more prejudicial, +is its instability and uncertainty, and the repetition of the same +operation I have just described every year, and with every cargo that +arrives; but under distinct valuations, according to the reports +or humor of the day. Besides these great defects and irregularity, +the Philippine custom house observes the singular practice of not +allowing the temporary landing of goods entered in transitu and for +re-exportation, as is done on the bonding system in all countries +where exertions are made by those in authority for the extension and +improvement of commerce in every possible way. Of course, much less +will they consent to the drawback or return of any part of the duties +on goods entered outwards, even though they are still on board the +very vessels in which they originally came shipped. Beyond all doubt, +the wrongly understood severity of such a system, has, and will, +continue to prevent many vessels from frequenting the port of Manila, +and trying the market, unable to rely on the same liberal treatment +they can meet with in other places. + +[The areca-nut.] The bonga, or areca-nut, is the fruit of a very +high palm-tree, not unlike the one that bears the date, and the +nuts, similar to the latter, hang in great clusters from below the +protuberance of the leaves or branches. Its figure and size resemble +a common nut, but solid, like the nutmeg. Divided into small pieces, +it is placed in the center of a small ball made of the tender leaves +of the buyo or betel pepper, lightly covered with slacked lime, +and this composition constitutes the celebrated betel of Asia, or, +as it is here called, the buyo, the latter differing from that used +in India, inasmuch only as it contains cardamomom. + +[Buyo monopoly unsatisfactory.] The government, anxious to derive +advantage in aid and support of the colony, from the great use the +inhabitants make of the buyo, many years ago determined to establish +the sale of the bonga, its principal ingredient, into a monopoly, +either by hiring the privilege out, or placing it under a plan of +administration, in the form in which it now stands. Both schemes have +been tried, but neither way has this branch been made to yield more +than $30,000; indeed the annual proceeds usually have not exceeded +$25,000. In 1809, the total amount of sales was $48,610, and deducting +from this sum the prime cost and expenses of administration, the net +profit in favor of the treasury was equal to no more than $27,078 or +upwards of 125 1/2%. In 1780, the privilege of selling the bonga was +let out at public auction for the sum of $15,765 and this, compared +with the present proceeds, clearly shows that, although the increase +has not advanced equally with the other branches of the revenue, it is +far from having declined. It must nevertheless be confessed, that on +the present footing on which it stands, the smallness of the proceeds +is not worth the trouble required in the collection, and even if the +amount were still greater, it could never serve as an excuse for the +oppression and violence to which this monopoly frequently gives rise. + +[Hardships on areca-nut planters.] As the trees producing the bonga +are not confined to any particular grounds, and indiscriminately grow +in all, the plan has been adopted of compelling the Filipinos to gather +and bring in the fruit, raised on their lands, to the depot nearest the +district in which they reside. There they are paid from two, two and +one-half, three and three and one-half reals per thousand, according +to the distance from which they come: and, in order to prevent frauds, +the surveyors belonging to the revenue go out, at certain times of the +year, to examine the bonga plantations, and the trees being counted, +they estimate the fruit, that is, oblige the proprietor to undertake +to deliver in two hundred nuts for each bearing tree, whether or not, +hurricanes deteriorate or destroy the produce, or thieves plunder +the plantations, as very frequently happens. In case deficiencies are +proved against him, he is compelled to pay for them in money, at the +rate of twenty-five reals per thousand, the price at which the king +sells them in the monopoly-stores. Besides, the precise condition of +delivering in two hundred bonga nuts, according to the stipulations +imposed upon him, presupposes the previous exclusion of all the injured +or green ones; and although the ordinary trees usually yield as many as +three hundred nuts each, great numbers are nevertheless spoiled. If, to +the adverse accidents arising out of the storms and robberies, we add +the effects of the whims or ill-humor of the receivers, it is not easy +to imagine to what a length the injuries extend which befall the man +who has the folly or misfortune to become a planter of this article. + +[Folly of monopoly plan.] On the other hand, as in the conveyances +from the minor to the larger depots, frauds are frequently committed, +and the heaping together of many millions of nuts inevitably produces +the fermentation and rapid putrefaction of a great number of them, +it consequently follows that the waste must be immense; or if it is +determined to sell all the stock laid in, without any distinction in +quality and price, the public must be very badly served and displeased, +as in fact too often happens. Since, therefore, the habit of using +the buyo is still more prevailing than that of tobacco, when suitable +supplies cannot be had in the monopoly stores, the consumer naturally +resorts to the contraband channels, although he encounters some risk, +and expends more money. It is also very natural that the desire of +gain should thus lead on and daily expose a number of needy persons, +anxious by this means to support and relieve the wants of their +families. Returning, however, to what more immediately concerns the +grower, I do not know that the oppressive genius of fiscal laws has, +in any country of the globe, invented one more refinedly tyrannic, +than to condemn a man, to a certain degree at least, as has hitherto +been the case, to the punishment of Tantalus; for the law forbids the +Filipino to touch the fruit of the tree planted with his own hands, +and which hangs in tempting and luxuriant abundance round his humble +dwelling. + +[Its modification desirable.] It would be easy for me to enumerate +many other inconveniences attending this branch of public revenue, +on the footing on which it now stands, if what has already been said +did not suffice to point out the necessity of changing the system, +as those in authority are anxious that the treasury should gain more, +and the king's subjects suffer less. The strong prejudice entertained +against this source of revenue, the inconsiderable sum it produces, +and the complicated form of its organization, have in reality been +sufficient motives to induce many to become strenous advocates for +the total abolition of the monopoly. I do not, however, on this +account see any reasons for altogether depriving the government of +a productive resource, as this might soon be rendered, if it was +placed under regulations less odious and more simple in themselves. I +nevertheless agree, that the perfect monopoly of the areca fruit, or +bonga, is impracticable, till the trees, indiscriminately planted, +are cut down, and, in the same way as the tobacco plantations, +fresh and definite grounds are laid out for its cultivation, on +account of the revenue. I am further aware that this measure is +less practicable than the first; for, independent of all the other +obstacles, it would be necessary to wait till the new plantation +yielded fruit, and also that the public should consent to refrain +from masticating buyo in the meanwhile, a pretension as mad as it +would be to require that the eating of salt should be dispensed with +for a given number of years. But what difficulty would there be, +for example, in the proprietors paying so much a year for each bonga +tree to the district magistrate, the governor of the nearest town, +or the cabeza de Barangay, or chiefs of the clans into which the +natives are divided, in the same manner as the Filipino pays his +tribute? [Tree-tax preferable.] The only one I anticipate is that of +fixing the amount in such way that, at the same time this resource is +made to produce an increased income of some moment, it may act as a +moderate tax on an indefinite property, the amount of which, augmented +in the same price, may be reimbursed to the proprietor by the great +body of consumers. It is not in fact easy to foresee or estimate, +by any means of approximation, the alteration in the current price +of the bonga, that would result from the indefinite freedom of its +cultivation and sale, especially during the first years. Although, +for this reason, it would be impossible to ascertain what proportion +the impost on the tree would then bear with regard to the value of +the fruit, the error that might accrue would be of little moment, as +long as precautions were taken to adopt a very low rate of comparison, +and a proportionably equitable one as the basis of taxation. Supposing +then that the price of the bonga should decline from twenty-five reals, +at which it is now sold in the monopoly stores, to fifteen reals per +thousand, in the general market, and a tax of one-fourth real should +be laid on each tree valued at two hundred bonga nuts, it is clear +that this would be equal to no more than 8 1/2%; or, what is the same, +the tax would be in the proportion one to twelve with the proceeds of +each tree, and the more the value of the fruit was raised, the more +would the rate of contribution diminish. It ought at the same time +to be observed that, under the above estimate, that is, supposing the +price of the article to remain at fifteen reals, the 8 1/2% at which +rate the tax is regulated, would not perhaps exceed five or six per +cent on a more minute calculation; in the first place, because at the +time of making out the returns of the trees, [Exception of immature +and aged trees.] those only ought to be set down which are in their +full vigor, excluding such as through the want or excess of age only +yield a small proportion of fruit; and in the second, because in +the numbers registered, the trees would only be rated at two hundred +although it is well known they usually yield three hundred, in order +by this means the better to avoid all motives of complaint. In this +point of view, and by adopting similar rules of probability, it seems +to me that the government would not risk much by an attempt to change +the present system into a tax levied on the tree itself, on a plane +similar to the one above proposed; more particularly by doing it in +a temporary manner, and rendering it completely subservient to the +corrections subsequent experience might suggest in this particular. + +[Difficulty of estimating probable revenue.] The difficulty being, +in this manner, overcome, with regard to the prudent determination +of the rate at which the proprietor of the bonga plantations ought +to contribute, let us now proceed to estimate, by approximation, the +annual sum that would thus be obtained. As, however, this operation +is unfortunately complicated, and in great measure depends on the +previous knowledge of the total number of trees liable to the tax +proposed, details with which we are at not present prepared, it is +impossible to come at any very accurate results. All that can be done +is to endeavor to demonstrate, in general terms, the great increase +the revenue would experience by the adoption of the new plan, and +the real advantage resulting from it to the contributors themselves, +all which may be easily deduced from the following calculation. + +Let us, in the first instance, suppose that the consumers of buyo, +in the whole of the Islands, do not exceed one million of persons, +and that each one makes use of three bongas per day, this consumption, +at the end of the year, would then amount to 1,095,000,000 nuts. We +will next divide this sum by two hundred, at which the product of each +tree, one with another, is rated, and the result will be 5,475,000 +trees. [Greater, however, than at present.] This number being taxed +at the rate of one-fourth real, would leave the sum of $171,093.75 +and deducting therefrom the $25,000 yielded by this branch under its +present establishment, together with $5,132 equal to three per cent +paid to the district magistrates for the charges of collection, we +should still have an annual increase in favor of the, treasury equal +to $140,961.75. + +It might perhaps be objected that, in this case, the proprietor, +instead of receiving, as before two and one-half reals for every +thousand bongas, would have to disburse one and one-fourth reals in +the mere act of paying one-fourth real for each tree; a circumstance +which, at first sight, seems to produce a difference not of one and +one-fourth, but of three and one-fourth reals per thousand against +him; though in reality far from this being the case, if we take into +consideration the deficiencies the sworn receiver usually lays to +his charge, the fruit he rejects, owing to its being green or rotten, +and the many and expensive grievances he is exposed to in his capacity +of grower; it will be seen that his disbursements under these heads +frequently exceed the amount he in fact has to receive. [Tax only a +surcharge ultimately paid by consumer.] If, in addition to this, we +bear in mind that, on condition of seeing himself free from guards +and a variety of insupportable restrictions, constituting the very +essence of a monopoly, he would in all probability gladly pay much +more than the tax in question, all the doubts arising on this point +will entirely disappear. Finally, considered in its true light, we +shall not find in the measure above described anything more than a +very trifling discount required of the proprietor from the price at +which he sells his bonga, and which, as already noticed, ultimately +falls on the consumer alone. + +[Estimate conservative.] The moderate estimate I have just formed ought +to inspire the more confidence from its being well known that the use +of the buyo is general among the inhabitants of these Islands. The +calculation, as it now stands, rests only on one million consumers, +for each of whom I have only put down three bongas per day, whereas +it is customary to use much more; nor have I taken into account the +infinite number of nuts wasted after being converted into the buyo, +a fact equally well known. Indeed, as the object proposed was no +other than to prove the main part of my assertions, and I trust this +is satisfactorily done, I have not deemed it necessary to include +in the above calculation a greater number of minute circumstances, +nor attempt to deduce more favorable results, which, with the scope +before me, I was most assuredly warranted in doing. + +[Advantages.] In a word, from the concurrence of the facts and +reasons above adduced, the following propositions may, without any +difficulty, be laid down. First, that the increase of revenue produced +by the reform in question, would in all probability exceed $150,000 +per annum; secondly, that the Filipinos would soon comprehend, and +gladly consent to a change of this kind in the mode of contributing +of which the advantages would be apparent; thirdly, that the persons +employed in the old establishment, might, with greater public utility, +be applied to other purposes; and lastly, that the civil magistrates +would not be harassed with so many strifes and lawsuits, and so many +melancholy victims of the monopoly, and its officers would cease to +drag a wretched existence in the prisons and places of hard labor in +these Islands. + +[Cockpit licenses.] The cock-pit branch of the revenue is hired out +by the government, and the license is separately set up at auction +for the respective provinces. Its nature and regulations are so +well known that they do not require a particular description, the +general obligations of the contractors being the same as those in New +Spain. Perhaps the only difference observed in this public exhibition +in the Philippine Islands consists in its greater simplicity, owing to +its being frequented only by the natives, the whites who are present +at this kind of diversion being very few, or indeed none. + +[Inconsiderable income.] The cock-pits are open two days in the week, +and the lessees of them receive half a real from every person who +enters, besides the extra price they charge those who occupy the best +seats, the owners of the fighting cocks, for the spurs, stalls for the +sale of buyo, refreshments, etc. Notwithstanding all this, and although +cock-fighting is so general and favorite an amusement among these people +(the rooster may justly be considered as the distinctive emblem of +the Filipino) the annual proceeds of this branch are inconsiderable; +although it must be acknowledged that it has greatly increased since +the year 1780, when it appears the license was let at auction for +only about $14,000 owing, no doubt, to the exclusive privilege of +the contractors not having been extended to the provinces, as was +afterwards gradually done. + +[Provincial cockpit revenue.] The total sum paid to the government by +the renters of this branch, according to the auction returns in 1810, +amounted to $40,141 in the following order for the provinces: + + + Tondo $18,501 + Cavite 2,225 + La Laguna 2,005 + Pampanga 3,000 + Bulacan 6,900 + Batangas 2,000 + Pangasinan 1,200 + Bataan 1,050 + Iloilo 1,600 + Ilocos 600 + Tayabas 400 + Cebu 360 + Albay 300 + Total $40,141 + + +[Possibilities of increase.] The causes, to which the increase +that has taken place within the last twenty-five or thirty years is +chiefly to be attributed, have already been pointed out, and for this +reason it would appear that, by adopting the same plan with regard to +the fourteen remaining provinces, of which this captaincy-general +is composed, hitherto free from the imposition of this tax, an +augmentation might be expected, proportionate to the population, +their circumstances, and the greater or lesser taste for cock-fights +prevailing among their respective inhabitants. At the commencement, no +doubt, the rentals would be low, and, of course, the prices at which +the licenses were let out, would be equally so; but the experience +and profits derivable from this kind of enterprises would not fail +soon to excite the competition of contractors, and in this way add +to the revenue of the government. This is so obvious that I cannot +help suspecting attempts have, at some period or other, been made +to introduce the establishment of this privilege, in some of the +provinces alluded to; at the same time I am persuaded that, owing +to the affair not having been viewed in its proper light, seeking +on the contrary to obtain an immediate and disproportionate result, +the authorities have been too soon disheartened and given up the +project without a fair trial. All towns and districts murmur, and, +at first object, to taxes, however light they may be; but, at length, +if they be not excessive, the people become reconciled to them. The +one here proposed is neither of this character, nor can it be deemed +odious on account of its novelty. The natives are well aware that +their brethren in the other provinces are subject to it, and that +in this nothing more is done than rendering the system uniform. I, +therefore, see no reason why the establishment of this branch of +revenue should not be extended to all the points of the Islands. At +the commencement, let it produce what it may, since constancy and +time will bring things to the same general level. + +[Indian tributes.] The too great condescension and mistaken humanity +of the government on the one hand, and the fraud and selfishness +of the provincial sub-delegates or collectors, on the other, have +concurred to change a contribution, the most simple, into one of the +most complicated branches of public administration. The first cause +has been owing to a too general acquiescence to receive the amount +of tributes in the produce peculiar to each province, instead of +money; and the second, because as the above officers are the persons +intrusted with the collection, whenever the sale has held out to +them any advantage, they have been in the habit of appropriating the +several articles to themselves, without allowing any benefit to the +treasury. If the prospective sales of the produce appear unfavorable, +it is then forwarded on to the king's store in Manila, surcharged with +freights, exposed to many risks, and the value greatly diminished +by waste and many other causes. No order or regularity being thus +observed in this respect, and the sale of the produce transmitted to +the king's stores being regulated by the greater or lesser abundance in +the general market, and a considerable stock besides left remaining, +from one year to another, and eventually spoiled, it is impossible +to form any exact estimate of this branch. If to these complicated +matters we add the radical vices arising out of the infidelity of the +heads of clans (cabezas de barangay), the difficulty of ascertaining +the defects of the returns made out by them, the variations annually +occurring in the number of those exempted either through age or other +legal motives, and above all, the frequently inevitable tardiness with +which the district magistrates send in their respective accounts, +it will be readily acknowledged, that no department requires more +zeal in its administration, and no one is more susceptible of all +kinds of frauds, or attended with more difficulties. + +[A conservative estimate.] In this state of uncertainty, with regard +to this particular branch, I have guided myself by the last general +return of tributes, made out in the accountant-general's office, +on the best and most recent data, and calculating indistinctly the +whole value in money, I have deemed it proper afterwards to make a +moderate deduction, on account of the differences above stated, and +arising out of the collection of the tributes in kind, the expenses of +conveyance, shipwrecks, averages, and other causes already enumerated. + +[Fixed charges.] In conformity to this calculation, the total +proceeds of this branch of revenue amount to $505,215 from which +sum are deducted, in the primitive stages of the accounts, the +amount of ecclesiastical stipends, the pay of the troops under +the immediate orders of the chief district magistrates in their +quality of war-captains, together with all other extraordinary +expenses incurred in the provinces by orders of the government, the +remainder being afterwards forwarded to the king's treasury. It ought, +however, to be observed, that the above aggregated sum is more or less +liable to deficiencies, according to the greater or lesser degree of +punctuality on the part of the sub-collectors in making up accounts, +and the solidity of their respective sureties; the failure of this +kind experienced by the revenue being so frequent, that, according to +the returns of the accountant-general, those which occurred between +the years 1762 and 1809, were no less than $215,765 notwithstanding +the great precautions at all times taken to prevent such considerable +injuries, by every means compatible with the precarious tenure of +property possessed by both principals and sureties in this country. All +the above circumstances being therefore taken into due consideration, +and the ordinary and extraordinary discounts made from the total amount +of tributes, the real sum remaining, or the net annual proceeds of +the above branch, have usually not been rated at more than $190,000 +and $200,000; a sum respectively extremely small, and which possibly +might be doubled, without the necessity of recurring to any other +measure than a standing order for the collecting of the tributes in +money, as by this means the variety of expenses and complications above +enumerated, would be avoided, and the king's revenue no longer exposed +to any other deficiencies than those arising out of the insolvency +of the sub-collectors and their sureties, or casual risks, and the +trifling charges paid for the conveyance of the money. If in opposition +to this it should be alleged that it would be advisable to except some +of the provinces from this general rule, owing to the advantages the +government might derive from certain tributes being paid in kind, +I do not hesitate to answer that I see no reason whatever why this +should be done, because, if, for example, any quality of rigging +or sail cloth is annually required, it would be easy to obtain it +either by early contracts, or by laying in the articles at the current +market price. Indeed, all supplies which do not rest on this footing, +would be to defraud the natives of the fruits of his industry, and in +the final result this would be the same as requiring of him double or +triple tribute, contrary to the spirit of the law, which unfortunately +is too frequently the case under the existing system. + +[Preferability of tribute in money.] Considering this affair in +another point of view, it would be easy for me to demonstrate, if it +were necessary, the mistaken idea that the native is benefited by +receiving in kind the amount of the tribute he has to pay, at the +low prices marked in the tariff used as a standard, by showing the +extortions and brokerage, if I may so term it, to which the practice +gives rise on the part of the district collectors. It will, however, +suffice to call the attention of my readers to the smallness of +the sum constituting the ordinary tribute, when reduced to money, +in order for them to be convinced that it would be superfluous, +as well as hazardous, to attempt to point out how this branch might +be rendered more productive to the state and at the same time less +burdensome to the contributors, more particularly when the rate +assessed does not exceed ten reals per year, a sum so small, that +generally speaking, no family can be found unable to hoard it up, if +they have any inclination so to do. The prevailing error, however, in +this respect, I am confident arises out of a principle very different +from the one to which it is usually attributed. The tributary native +is, in fact, disposed to pay the quota assigned to him into the hands +of the chief of his clan, in money, in preference to kind; because, +independent of the small value at which the articles in kind are +rated in the tariff, he is then exposed to no expenses, as he now is +for the conveyance of his produce and effects; nor is he liable to so +many accidents. But as the chief of each clan has to deliver in his +forty or fifty tributes to the head magistrate, who is answerable for +those of the whole province, it is natural for him to endeavor to make +his corresponding payments in some equivalent affording him a profit; +at the same time the provincial magistrate, speculating on a larger +scale, on the produce arising out of his jurisdiction, seeks to obtain +from the government a profitable commutation in kind for that which +the original contributor would have preferred paying in money. In +order the better to attain his purpose, he asserts, as a pretext, +the impossibility of collecting in the tribute under another form, +alleging, moreover, the relief the native derives from this mode, +whereas, if only duly examined, such a pretence is founded on the +avarice, rather than the humanity of the magistrate. + +Leaving to one side the defects attributable to the present mode +of collection, and considering the tribute as it is in itself, the +attentive observer must confess, that in no part of our Indies is +this more moderate; and, indeed, it is evident that the laws generally +relating to the natives of these Islands seem to distinguish them with +a decided predilection above those of the various sections of America. + +[Items in tribute.] The tribute in its origin was only eight reals +per family; but the necessity of providing for the increased expenses +of the government gave rise to this rate being afterwards raised +to ten. The Sangley mestizos pay double tribute, and the Sangleys +contribute at the rate of $6 per head. Besides this, all pay a yearly +sum, applicable to the funds belonging to the community, and the above +two casts pay three reals more, as a church rate, and under the name +of the Sanctuary, the whole being in the following form: + + +Entire Native Tribute Tribute of Mestizos Sangleys + +8 Reals, original tribute 16 Reals. $6 each. +1 1/2 Reals for expenses +of troops 3 +1/2 Reals to tithes 1 +10 Reals, amount of tribute 20 Reals. $6.75 +1 Real, community funds 1 +3 Reals, sanctuary rate 3 +14 Reals, total annual +disbursement. 24 Reals. $6.75 + + +The males commence paying tribute at twenty years of age and +the females at twenty-five, if before they have not entered the +matrimonial state, and in both the obligation ceases at the age of +sixty. The chiefs of clans, or cabezas de barangay and their eldest +sons, or in default of children, the person adopted in their stead, +that is, an entire tribute and a half, are exempt from this tax, as +a remuneration for the trouble and responsibility they may have in +collecting in the forty or fifty tributes, of which their respective +clans are composed. Besides these there are various other classes of +exempted persons, such as the soldiers who have served a certain number +of years, those who have distinguished themselves in any particular +manner in the improvement of industry or agriculture, and others who +have received special certificates, on just and equitable grounds. In +summing up the total number of exempted persons, on an average in +the whole of the provinces, they will be found in the proportion of +fifty to every thousand entire tributes. + +[Chinese tax.] The head-tax of the Sangleys has usually been +attended with so many difficulties in its collection, owing to the +facilities with which they absent or secrete themselves, and the +many stratagems this cunning and artful race employ to elude the +vigilance of the commissioners, that the government has at length +found itself compelled to let out this branch, as was done in 1809, +when it was disposed of in the name of one of them for the moderate +sum of $30,000; notwithstanding it is a generally received opinion, +that the number of this description of Chinese, constantly residing +in the Islands, is above 7,000, which, at the rate of $6 per head, +would raise this proportion of the tax as high as $42,000. + +[Community funds.] The Community funds belonging to each town, have, +in conformity to the regulations under which they are administered, +a special, or I might say, local application; but collected together +into one stock, as is now the case, and directly administered by the +government, they produce a more general utility. The head town of +the province A, for example, requires to rebuild the public prison +or town-hall, and its own private funds are not sufficient to defray +the expenses of the work in question. In this case, therefore, the +government gives orders for the other dependent towns to make up the +deficiency by taking their proportions from their respective coffers, +as all have an equal interest in the proposed object being carried +into effect. The king's officers, in consequence thereof, draw the +corresponding sums from these funds, the whole of which is under their +immediate superintendence. And in order that the surplus of this stock +may not stand still, but obtain every possible increase in a country +where the premium for money is excessive, when let out at a maritime +risk, it is ordered that some part shall be appropriated in this way, +and on the same terms as those observed by the administrators of the +charity funds belonging to the Misericordia (Charity) establishment, +and the third order of St. Francis, which is another of the great +advantages of assembling this class of property. + +In consequence of this judicious regulation, and the success with +which this measure has hitherto been attended, the Community fund +has gone on increasing in such a way that, notwithstanding the sums +drawn from it for the purpose of constructing causeways, bridges, +and other municipal objects, at the commencement of 1810, the stock +in hand amounted to no less than $200,000; and it is natural to +suppose when the outstanding premiums due shall have been paid in, +a considerable augmentation will take place. This branch, although +not exactly comprehended in those which constitute the revenue of the +government, has so obvious an analogy with that of tributes, that I +have not deemed it any essential deviation from the order and method +I have hitherto observed in this work, to introduce it in this place, +as in itself it did not deserve to be classed under a distinct head. + +[Tribute burdensome.] Notwithstanding the truth of what has been +said with regard to the moderate rate of the tribute imposed on the +native of the Philippine Islands, it would be extremely desirable if +he could be altogether exonerated from a charge which he bears with +great repugnance, by some other substitute being adopted, indirectly +producing an equivalent compensation. In the first place, because the +just motives of complaint would cease, caused not only by the tribute, +but also the manner of its collection; and an end would then be put +to those intrigues and extortions the district magistrates commit, +under the title of zealous collectors of the king's revenue, and the +power of a multitude of subaltern tyrants, comprehended under the +denomination of chiefs of native clans (cabezas de barangay) would +then also fall to the ground; a power which, if now employed for the +purpose of oppressing and trampling on the liberties of inferiors, +might some day or other be converted into an instrument dangerous +and subversive of our preponderance in the country. In the second +place, if, among all the civilized nations a head-tax (poll-tax) +is in itself odious, it must incontestably be much more so among +those whose unlettered state, far from allowing them to know that +the social order requires a certain class of sacrifices for its +better preservation, makes them attribute exactions of this kind +to an abuse of superiority. Hence are they led to consider these +restraints as the symbols of their own slavery and degradation, as +in fact the natives in these Islands have ample reasons for doing, +when the legal exemption of the whites is considered, without any +other apparent reason than the difference in color. Independent of +this, the substitute above alluded to would be extremely expedient, +inasmuch as it would greatly simplify the plan of administration, +the accountant's department would be freed from the most painful +part of its labors, and the district magistrates and sub-collectors +would not so frequently be entangled in their accounts, and exposed +to expensive and interminable lawsuits, as now so often happens. + +[Possible Revenue substitutes.] The difficulty, however, of +finding out this compensation or substitute is a matter of some +consideration. On the one hand, if it was attempted to distribute +the proceeds arising out of the tributes on other branches, such as +tobacco, native wine, bonga, and custom house, it would, at first +sight, appear possible, through the medium of an almost invisible +augmentation in the respective sale prices and in the king's duties, +that this important object might easily be attained; but, on the +other, it might be apprehended that the additional value put on +the articles above-mentioned, would produce in their consumption +a diminution equal to the difference in prices, in which cases no +advantage would be gained. The practicability of the operation, in my +opinion, depends on the proportion in which the means of obtaining the +articles in question respectively stand with the probability of their +being consumed. I will explain myself. If, for example, the annual +stock of tobacco laid in should be insufficient to meet the wants of +the consumers, as constantly occurs, it is clear that this article, +when monopolized, will bear a small augmentation of price, not only +without any inconvenience or risk, but with the moral certainty of +obtaining a positive increase of revenue, the necessary effect of +the total consumption of the tobacco laid in and sold. But as this +does not happen with the branch of native wines, of which the stock +usually exceeds the demand, and as the bonga also is not susceptible +of this improvement, owing to the small place it occupies among the +other resources of the revenue, no other means are left than to add to +the duties of export on silver, and of import on foreign merchandise, +a percentage equivalent to the deficiency not laid on tobacco, unless +it should be deemed more advisable to levy a sumptuary contribution on +coaches, horses and servants, and especially on all kinds of edifices +and houses built of stone and mortar, situated both within and without +the capital. + +[Objection to tribute-paying.] However this may be, whatever the king +loses in revenue by the abolition of the native tributes, no doubt, +could be made up by an appeal to other ways and means. It is well-known +that many of the Indian tribes refuse to become subjects of the crown +and object to enter into general society on account of the odious +idea they have formed of paying tribute; or, as they understand it, +the obligation of giving something for nothing, notwithstanding those +who voluntarily submit themselves to our laws, are exempt from tribute, +and this charge falls only on their descendants. But of this they must +either be ignorant, or they regret depriving their posterity of that +independence in which they themselves have been brought up, and thus +transmit to them slavery as an inheritance. As soon, therefore, as a +general exemption of this kind, without distinction of casts, should +be made public, the natives would quit their fastnesses and secluded +places, and satisfied with the security offered to them, would be +seen coming down to the plains in search of conveniences of civilized +life, and all gradually would be reduced to Christianity. Hence +the increase of productions and their consumption, as well as +the extension of agriculture, industry and internal commerce. The +diminution of smuggling tobacco would soon follow, progress would be +made in the knowledge of the mines and natural riches of the country, +and financially, greater facilities would present themselves in +gradually carrying into effect its entire conquest and civilization. + +Advantages of such great and extraordinary importance deserve to +be seriously weighed, and to this valuable department of public +administration the early attention of those in authority ought to +be called. Let due inquiries be made, and soon shall we discover +the substantial benefits which would be derived to the treasury +from the adoption of this measure, as popular as it is just, and +also conformable to the liberal spirit of the times. In support of +the preceding arguments, it ought further to be observed, that when +all the branches constituting the king's revenue are well organized, +brought to their most productive state, and the public debt contracted +under unforeseen exigencies paid off, as long as present circumstances +do not vary, an annual surplus of revenue, equal to more than $500,000, +will be left; and as the proceeds of the particular branch of tributes +do not amount to this sum, it is evident their abolition may take +place, not only without any derangement or onerous consequences to the +administration, but even without any deficiency being experienced, or +any necessity to recur to the treasury of New Spain for extraordinary +aid. These reasons acquire still greater force when it is remembered +that, as things now are, all the branches of public revenue are +in a progressively improving condition, and as the whole are still +susceptible of a much more productive organization, the annual surplus +of receipts will rapidly become greater, and consequently also the +necessity will diminish of continuing to burden this portion of His +Majesty's dominions with contributions in order to meet the expenses +of their defence and preservation. + +Finally, well convinced of the advantageous results which, in +every sense, would emanate from the revision and reforms proposed, +I abstain from offering, in support of my arguments, a variety of +other reflections which occur to me, not to be too diffuse on this +subject; trusting that the hints I have already thrown out will be +more than sufficient to excite an interest and promote a thorough and +impartial investigation of concerns, highly important to the future +welfare and security of this colony. + +[Subaltern branches.] Besides the six preceding branches which +constitute the chief mass of the public revenue in these islands, there +are several smaller ones of less consideration and amount; some having +a direct application to the general expenses of the local government, +and the others, intended as remittances to Spain; a distinction of +little import and scarcely deserving of notice, since the object of the +present sketch is to convey information on a large scale respecting +the King's revenue in these Islands. As some of them, however, yield +proceeds more regular than the others, I have classed together the +receipts of the Pope's Bulls, or "Bulas de Cruzada," playing-cards, +tithes, stamps and gunpowder, under the head of Subaltern Branches, +with regard to the rest, to the general statement already quoted. + +In conformity to the returns with which I have been favored from +the public offices, these five branches produced, in the year 1809, +$45,090.75 in the following proportions: + + + Sales. Expenses. Net Proceeds. + Pope's bulls $15,360.75 $4,422.25 $10,938.50 + Playing cards 11,539.125 932.625 10,606.50 + Tithes 12,493.00 ---- 12,493.00 + Stamps 4,467.50 321.50 4,146.00 + Gunpowder 7,307.625 401.125 6,905.375 + ---- ---- ---- + $51,168.125 $6,077.75 $45,090.375 + + +[Tithes.] The scanty proceeds of the tithes will naturally appear +remarkable; but it ought to be remembered that, besides the ordinary +tribute, the natives pay half a real under this denomination, +without any distinction of person, or any reference whatever to their +respective means, the total amount of which is already added to the +tributes, and for this reason not repeated in this place. In addition +also no tithes are levied, except on lands belonging to Spaniards, +churches, regular clergy, ecclesiastical corporations, etc., and even +then the articles of rice, wheat, pulse indigo and sugar, are alone +liable. The above branches are all in charge of administrators, +and from this plan it certainly would be advisable to separate +the tithes and farm them out at public auction, as was proposed +by the king's officers of the treasury, in their report on this, +as well as other points, concerning the revenue, and dated October +24, 1792. From the net proceeds of the gunpowder the expenses of its +manufacture, confided to the commandant of artillery, ought seemingly +to be deducted; but, as they cannot be ascertained with any degree of +certainty, and as besides they are comprehended in the general expenses +of that department, a separate deduction may be dispensed with. + +[Disbursements and general expenses.] In order to form a correct idea +of the annual amount of the expenditure incurred by the administration +and defence of the Philippine Islands, it is not necessary in this +place to distinguish each item, separately; or to enumerate them +with their respective sums or particular denominations. Some general +observations on this subject ought, nevertheless, to be made, with a +view to point out the reforms of which this important department of +the public revenue is susceptible. + +In the part relating to the interior administration or government, +ample room is certainly left for that kind of economy arising out of +the adoption of a general system, little complicated; but it is besides +indispensably necessary that, at the same time the work is simplifed +and useless hands dismissed, the salaries of those who remain should +be proportionally increased, in order to stimulate them in the due +performance of their duties. It might also be found advisable to +create a small number of officers of a superior order, who would +be enabled to co-operate in the collection of the king's revenue, +and the encouragement of agriculture, commerce and navigation, +in their respective departments. The additional charges in this +respect cannot be of any great consequence; although, in reality, +by the receipts increasing through the impulse of an administrative +order more perfect, and the expenses being always the same, the main +object, so anxiously sought for in another way, would be thus attained. + +[Defence expenses.] The reverse, however, happens with regard +to the expenses of defence, as I have called them, the better to +distinguish them from those purely relating to the interior police +or administration. Every sacrifice, most assuredly, ought to appear +small, when the object is to preserve a country from falling into the +hands of an enemy, and it ought not to excite surprise, if, during the +course of the last fifteen years, several millions of dollars have been +expended in the Philippines, in order to shield them from so dreadful +a misfortune. But the late memorable revolution in the Peninsula has +given rise to so great a change in our political relations, and it +is extremely improbable that these Islands will be again exposed to +the same danger and alarm, that the government may now, without any +apparent risk, dispense with a considerable part of the preparations +of defence, at one time deemed indispensably necessary. A colony that +has no other strong place to garrison than its capital, and on the +loyalty of whose inhabitants there are sufficient motives to rely, +ought, in my opinion, to be considered as adequately provided against +all ordinary occurrences in time of peace, with the 4,000 regulars, +more or less, of all arms, the usual military establishment. In case +any suspicions should arise of an early rupture with the only power +whose forces can inspire the governors of these Islands with any kind +of apprehensions, means will not be wanting to an active and provident +minister, of giving proper advice, so as to allow sufficient time for +the assembling of the battalions of provincial militia and all the +other necessary preparations of defence, before the enemy is in an +attitude to effect an invasion of a country so far distant from his +own possessions on the coasts of Malabar and Coromandel. Consequently, +by disbanding the corps of provincial infantry, cavalry and artillery, +which continue uselessly to be kept on foot, an annual saving of +from $220,000 to $250,000 would take place, an amount too great to +be expended unless imperiously called for by the evident dread of a +premeditated attack from an hostile quarter. + +[Shipping reform.] The navy is another of the departments in which +reforms may be introduced, of no small moment to the treasury. Of +course by the government merely dispensing with the policy of keeping +in readiness two large ships to convey to Acapulco the cargos, for +which the Manila merchants enjoy an annual licence, and leaving to +the latter the full liberty of following up their speculations on +their own account and risk, in vessels of their own, individually or +with joint stock, a saving would result in favor of the crown equal to +$140,000 to $150,000 per annum, and without preventing the receipt in +Acapulco of the customary duties of $160,000 or $166,000 corresponding +to the said licenses. This will evidently be the case, because as +long as the large disposal of funds of the charitable institutions +are employed in maritime risks, and the private property of others +is besides added to them, the amount of the operations undertaken by +the merchants of the Philippines to New Spain, when divested of all +restraint, will always exceed $500,000 per annum. Nor is there now +any further occasion for the government to continue granting this +species of gratuitous tutelage to a body of men possessed of ample +means to manage their own affairs, and who demand the same degree of +freedom, and only seek a protection similar to that enjoyed by their +fellow-countrymen in other parts of the king's dominions. + +[Galleon graft.] In case the above reform should be adopted, it might +be deemed requisite for the government to undertake the payment of some +of the charges under the existing order of things, defrayed out of the +freights to which the merchandise shipped in the Acapulco traders is +liable; because, calculating the freight at the usual rate of $200 for +each three bales, or the amount of one ticket, out of the one thousand +constituting the entire cargo, and of which one-half, or $100,000 more +or less, is appropriated to the ecclesiastical chapter, municipality, +officers of the regular army (excluding captains and the other higher +ranks) and the widows of Spaniards, who in this case would be losers, +independent of the remaining $100,000 or 500 tickets distributed +among the 200 persons having a right to ship to Acapulco, it would, at +first sight, appear reasonable for the treasury to indemnify the above +description of persons by a compensation equivalent to the privation +they experience through the new arrangement of the government. But +as the practice of abuses constitutes no law, and what is given +through favor is different to that which is required by justice, +there are no reasons whatever why the treasury should be bound to +support the widows of private persons, from the mere circumstance of +their deceased husbands having been Spaniards; more particularly if +it is considered that, far from having acquired any special merit +during their lifetime, most of them voluntarily left their native +country for the purpose of increasing their fortunes, and others were +banished from it, owing to their bad conduct. Neither can it be said +that the municipality have a legal right, in the case before stated, +to receive any equivalent for the value of their respective annual +tickets, which, when disposed of, usually amount to about $20,000 in +the first place, because it is well-known that the eleven aldermen's +seats, of which that body is composed, seats which can either be +sold or resigned, originally did not cost as much as $50,000 and +clearly the principal invested is out of all kind of proportion with +the enormous premium or income claimed. In the second place, although +the above municipal situations were originally purchased with a view +to obtain some advantages, these formerly were very different to what +they are at present, when the great increase of shippers to Acapulco, +or in more plain terms, of purchase of tickets competing to obtain +them, has given to these permits a value more than triple to that +they possessed thirty years ago. + +[Indemnifying the aldermen.] In order, therefore, to do away with +all motives of doubt and dispute, as well as for many other reasons +of public utility, the best plan, in my opinion, would be, to return +to each alderman his money, and the present municipal constitution +being dissolved, the number of members might be reduced to four, with +their corresponding registrar, and like the two ordinary "alcaldes," +elected every year without any other reward than the honor of presiding +over and representing their fellow-citizens. Under this supposition, +the only classes entitled to compensation, strictly speaking, +would be the ecclesiastical chapter and the subaltern officers, +whose respective pay and appointment are not in fact sufficient +for the decency and expenses of their rank in society. Of course it +would then be necessary to grant them more adequate allowances, but, +according to reasonable calculations, the sum total annually required +would not exceed $30,000; consequently, the reform projected with +regard to the Acapulco ships would still eventually produce to the +treasury a saving of from $60,000 to $70,000 in the first year of +its adoption, and of $110,000 to $120,000 in every succeeding one. + +[The navy.] It is, on the other hand, undeniable that, if the royal +navy and cruising vessels, or those belonging to the Islands and +under the immediate orders of the captain-general, were united into +one department, and placed under one head, considerable economy +would ensue, and all motives of discord and emulation be moreover +removed. Such would be the case if the change was attended with no +other cirumstances than the consequent diminution of commanders, +subaltern officers, and clerks; but it would be also proper to unite +the arsenals, and adopt a more general uniformity in the operations and +dependences of this part of the public services. It is equally certain +that, during peaceful times, the two schooners and sixty gunboats, +constituting the number of the above-mentioned cruising vessels, would +be in great measure useless; whilst in case of a rupture, they are not +sufficient to protect the trade of these Islands from the attacks of an +enemy, notwithstanding they now cost the government considerable sums +in repairs, etc., in order to keep them fit for service. The government +ought therefore to guard against this waste of public money, without, +however, neglecting the defence of the Islands, objects which, in my +opinion, might easily be reconciled. Intelligent persons have judged +that by reducing the naval forces to two frigates, two schooners, +and about a dozen gunboats, the essential wants of the colony would be +duly answered, in ordinary times; and some of the vessels might then +be destined to pursue hydrographical labors in the Archipelago, which, +unfortunately, are in a most backward state, whilst others could be +sent on their periodical cruises against the Moros. By this means, at +least, the navy department would be greatly simplified, and cease to be +eternally burdensome to the government. With regard to the superfluous +gunboats, it would be expedient to distribute them gratuitously among +the marine provinces and Bisayan Islands, on the only condition of +their being always kept fit for service; as, in one sense, the great +expenses of maintaining them would be thus saved by the treasury, and, +another, the inhabitants of those portions of the coast would be in +possession of means sufficiently powerful to repel the aggressions of +the Moros, who commit great ravages on their settlements. Finally, +if besides the reforms of which the army and navy are susceptible, +it is considered that the public works, such as prisons, schools, +bridges, and causeways, so expensive in other countries, in the +Philippines are constructed by the natives on the most reasonable +terms, out of the community funds; that there is no necessity to build +fortifications, and maintain numerous garrisons; that the clergy, to +whose zeal and powerful influence the preservation of these Islands +is chiefly due, do not cost the treasury annually above $200,000 and +that the geographical situation of the colony in great measure shields +it from the attacks of external enemies, it will readily be confessed, +that a wise and firm government might undertake, without the dread of +having to encounter any great obstacles, an administrative system, +in a general point of view, infinitely more economical than the one +hitherto followed; might be able to extirpate numerous abuses, and +by calling forth the resources of the country gradually raise it to +a flourishing condition, and cause it hereafter to contribute largely +to the other wants of the crown. Hence was it that the distinguished +voyager, La Pérouse (Chap. 15), contemplating these Islands with a +political eye, did not hesitate to affirm "that a powerful nation, +possessed of no other colonies than the Philippines, that should +succeed in establishing there a form of government best adapted to +their advantageous circumstances, would justly disregard all the +other European establishments in Africa and America." + +[Objectionable office-holders.] In our colonies, appointments and +command far from being sought as a means to obtain a good reputation, +or as affording opportunities of contributing to public prosperity, +are, it is too well known, only solicited with a view to amass +wealth, and then retire for the purpose of enjoying it. Commercial +pursuits being besides attended with so many advantages that those +only decline following them who are divested of money and friends; +whilst the situation in the revenue are so few in number, compared +with the many candidates who solicit them, that they are consequently +well appointed, it follows that the excess left without occupation, +besides being considerable, is generally composed of needy persons, and +not the most suitable to exercise the delicate functions of collectors +and magistrates in the provinces. From this class nevertheless the +host of officers are usually taken who, under the name of collectors, +surveyors and assessors of tributes, intervene in, or influence +the public administration. Owing to the variety and great number of +persons emigrating to America, ample field, no doubt, is there left +for selection, by which means the viceroys may frequently meet with +persons suitable and adequate to the above trusts, if prudent steps +are only taken; but in this respect the case is very different in the +Philippines, where chance alone occasionally brings over a European +Spaniard, unemployed or friendless. In these remote Islands, also, +more than in any other quarter, people seek to live in idleness, and, +as much as possible, without working, or much trouble. As long as +hopes are entertained of doing something in the Acapulco speculations, +every other pursuit is viewed with indifference, and the office of +district or provincial magistrate is only solicited when all other +resources have failed, or as a remedy against want. As the applicants +for these situations are therefore not among the most select classes, +it very frequently happens that they fall into extremely improper +and unworthy hands. + +It is in fact common enough to see a hairdresser or a lackey converted +into a governor; a sailor or a deserter transformed into a district +magistrate, collector, or military commander of a populous province, +without any other counsellor than his own crude understanding, +or any other guide than his passion. Such a metamorphosis would +excite laughter in a comedy or farce; but, realized in the theatre +of human life, it must give rise to sensations of a very different +nature. Who is there that does not feel horror-struck, and tremble +for the innocent, when he sees a being of this kind transferred from +the yard-arm to the seat of justice, deciding, in the first instance, +on the honor, lives, and property of a hundred thousand persons, and +haughtily exacting the homage and incense of the spiritual ministers +of the towns under his jurisdiction, as well as of the parish curates, +respectable for their acquirements and benevolence, and who, in their +own native places, would possibly have rejected as a servant the very +man whom in the Philippines they are compelled to court and obey as +a sovereign. + +In vain do the laws ordain that such offices shall not be given away to +attendants on governors and members of the high court of justice, for +under pretext of the scarcity of Europeans experienced in the colony, +means are found to elude the statute, by converting this plea into an +exception in favor of this description of persons. By such important +offices being filled in this manner, it is easy to conceive the various +hardships to which many of the provinces and districts are exposed; +nor can any amelioration be expected as long as this plan is persisted +in and the excesses of the parties go without punishment. + +[Evils from officials in trade.] Independent, however, of the serious +injuries and great errors persons of the class above described cannot +fail to commit in the exercise of their functions, purely judicial, the +consequences of their inordinate avarice are still more lamentable, +and the tacit permission to satisfy it, granted to them by the +government under the specious title of a licence to trade. Hence may +it be affirmed, that the first of the evils, and the one the native +immediately feels, is occasioned by the very person the law has +destined for his relief and protection. In a word, he experiences +injuries from the civil magistrates presiding over the provinces, +who, at the same time, are the natural enemies of the inhabitants, +and the real oppressors of their industry. + +It is a known and melancholy fact that, far from promoting the +felicity of the provinces intrusted to their care, the magistrates +attend to nothing else but their own fortunes and personal interests; +nor do they hesitate as to the means by which their object is to +be attained. Scarcely are they seated in the place of authority, +when they become the chief consumers, purchasers, and exporters of +every thing produced and manufactured within the districts under +their command, thus converting their licence to trade into a positive +monopoly. In all lucrative speculations the magistrate seeks to have +the largest share; in all his enterprises he calls in the forced aid +of his subjects, and if he deigns to remunerate their labor, at most +it is only on the same terms as if they had been working on account +of the king. These unhappy people bring in their produce and crude +manufactures to the very person who, directly or indirectly, is to fix +upon them an arbitrary value. To offer such and such a price for the +articles is the same as to say, another bidding shall not be made. To +insinuate is to command--the native is not allowed to hesitate, he must +either please the magistrate, or submit to his persecutions. Being +besides free from all competition in the prosecution of his traffic, +since he is frequently the only Spaniard resident in the province, +the magistrate therein acts with unbounded sway, without dread, +and almost without risk of his tyranny ever being denounced to the +superior tribunals. + +[Speculating in tributes.] In order, however, that a more correct +idea may be formed of the iniquitous conduct of many of these public +functionaries, it is necessary to lay open some part of their irregular +dealings in the collection of the Indian tributes. It is well known +that the government, anxious to conciliate the interests of the +tributary classes with those of the revenue, frequently commutes +the pecuniary capitation tax into an obligation to pay the amount in +produce or manufactures. A season comes when, owing to the failure +of the crops, the productions have risen to an excessive price, +and consequently infinitely above the ordinary rates affixed by law, +which are generally the lowest, and the natives, unable to keep their +bargains without considerable injury or endangering the subsistence +of their numerous families, implore the favor of the magistrate, +petitioning him to lay their calamitous situation before the superior +government, in order to have the payment of their tribute in kind +remitted, and offering to pay it in money. This is the precise moment +when, as his own profits depend on the misery of the province under +his command, he endeavors to misuse the accidental power with which he +is invested. Hence it happens that, instead of acting as a beneficent +mediator, and supporting the just solicitations of the natives, he at +first disregards their petition, and then all at once transforming +himself into a zealous collector, issues his notifications, sends +his satellites into the very fields to seize on the produce, and in a +most inexorable manner insists on collecting till necessity compels +him to suspend the measure. The principal object being attained, +that is, having now become master of the gleanings and scanty crops +of his bereft subjects, on a sudden his disposition changes, he is +moved to pity, and in the most pathetic language describes to the +government the ravages done to the plantations by the hurricanes, +and the utter impossibility of collecting in the tributes that year in +kind. On such a remonstrance he easily obtains permission to change the +standing order, and proceeding on to collect in some of the remaining +tributes in money, merely to save appearance, with perfect impunity +he puts the finishing stroke to the wicked act he had commenced, by +applying to himself all the produce his collectors had gathered in, +and places to the credit of the treasury the total amount of the +tributes, corresponding to his jurisdiction, in money. + +Supposing, for example, that this has happened in the province of +Antique, where the payment of the capitation-tax generally takes place +in the unhusked rice, rated at two reals per cavan, and, through the +effects of a bad season, this article should rise as high as ten or +twelve reals. It is clear that the magistrate, by accounting for the +tributes with the revenue office in money, and collecting them in kind +at the rate fixed by law, would by the sales gain a profit of 400 or +500 per cent; at the same time the native, by the mere circumstance +of then paying in kind, would have paid the tribute corresponding to +five or six years in a single one, without, on that account, having +freed himself from the same charge in the following seasons. + +[No check on extortion.] When the extortionate acts as these are +practised, to what lengths may it not be expected the other excesses +and abuses of authority are carried? To the above it ought moreover +to be added, that the provincial magistrates have no lieutenants, +and are unprovided with any other auxiliaries in the administration +of justice, except an accompanying witness and a native director; +that the scrutinies of their accounts, to which they formerly were +subject, are now abolished, and, in short, that they have no check +upon them, or indeed any other persons to bear testimony to their +irregularities, except the friendless and miserable victims of their +despotism and avarice. + +Notwithstanding, however, what is above stated, it sometimes happens +that a magistrate is to be met with, distinguished from the rest by +his prudence and good conduct; but this is a miracle, for by the very +circumstance of his being allowed to trade, he is placed in a situation +to abuse the wide powers confided to him, and preferably to attend +to his personal interests; in fact, if the principle is in itself +defective, it must naturally be expected the consequences will be +equally baneful. The lamentable abuses here noticed are but too true, +as well as many others passed over in silence; and the worst of all +is, that there is no hope of remedying them thoroughly, unless the +present system of interior administration is altogether changed. In +vain would it be to allege the possibility of removing the evil by the +timely and energetic interposition of the protector of the natives; +for although this office is in itself highly respectable, it cannot +in any way reach the multitude of excesses committed, and much less +prevent them; not only because the minister who exercises it resides +in the city, where complaints are seldom brought in, unless they come +through the channel of the parish curates; but also on account of the +difficulty of fully establishing the charges against the magistrates, +in the way the natives are at present depressed by fear and threats, as +well as restrained by the sub-governors and other inferior officers of +justice, who, being dependent upon, and holding their situations from +the magistrates, are interested in their monopolies and extortionate +acts being kept from public view. + +[Less complaisant laws needed.] If, therefore, it is not possible +entirely to eradicate the vices under which the interior administration +of these Islands labors, owing to the difficulty of finding persons +possessed of the necessary virtues and talents to govern, in an upright +and judicious manner, let us at least prevent the evils out of the +too great condescension of our own laws. In the infancy of colonies, +it has been the maxim of all governments to encourage the emigration +and settlement of inhabitants from the mother-country, without paying +much attention to the means by which this was to be done. It was not to +be wondered at that, for reasons of state, defects were overlooked,--at +such periods were even deemed necessary. Hence the relaxation in the +laws in favor of those who, quitting their native land, carried over +with them to strange countries their property and acquirements. Hence, +no doubt, also are derived the full powers granted to those who took +in charge the subjection and administration of the new provinces, +in order that they might govern, and at the same time carry on their +traffic with the natives, notwithstanding the manifest incompatibility +of the two occupations; or rather, the certainty that ought to have +been foreseen that public duties would generally be postponed, when +placed in competition with private interests and the anxious desire +of acquiring wealth. + +Subsequently that happened which was, in fact, to be dreaded, viz., +what at first was tolerated as a necessary evil, sanctioned by the +lapse of time has at length become a legitimate right, or rather a +compensation for the supposed trouble attached to the fulfillment of +the duties of civil magistrates; whilst they, as already observed, +think of nothing but themselves, and undergo no other trouble or +inconvenience than usually fall on the lot of any other private +merchant. In the Philippines, at least, many years having elapsed +since the natives peaceably submitted to the dominion of the king, +every motive has ceased that could formerly, and in a certain degree, +justify the indulgence so much abused, at the same time that no +plausible pretext whatever exists for its further continuation. + +Although hitherto the number of whites, compared to that of the +people of color, has not been great, as the whole of the provincial +magistracies, collectorships, and subaltern governments, do not exceed +twenty-seven, the scarcity of Spaniards ought not to be alleged as a +sufficient reason; nor can it be doubted these situations might at any +time be properly filled, if the person on whom the choice should fall +were only certain of living with decency and in a suitable manner, +without being carried away with the flattering hopes of withdrawing +from office, with ten, twenty, and even as high as fifty thousand +dollars of property, as has heretofore been the case, but satisfied +with a due and equivalent salary they might receive as a reward for +the public services they perform. + +I do not therefore see why the government should hesitate in resolving +to put a stop to evils which the people of the Philippines have not +ceased to deplore from the time of the conquest, by proscribing, under +the most severe penalties, the power of trading, as now exercised +by the provincial magistrates. The time is come when this struggle +between duty and sordid interest ought to end, and reason, as well +as enlightened policy, demand that in this respect our legislation +should be reformed, in order that the mace of justice, instead of +being prostituted in search of lucre, may henceforwards be wholly +employed in the support of equity and the protection of society. + +[Urgence of reform.] The only objection which, at first sight, might +be started against the suggestions here thrown out is the increased +expense which would fall on the treasury, owing to the necessity of +appropriating competent salaries for the interior magistrates under +the new order of things. Independent, however, of the fact that the +rapid improvements the provinces must assume, in every point of view, +would superabundantly make up this trifling difference; yet supposing +the sacrifice were gratuitous, and even of some moment, it ought +not, on that account, to be omitted, since there is no public object +more important to the sovereign himself, than to make the necessary +provision for the decorum of the magistracy, the due administration +of justice, and the maintenance of good order among his subjects. + +The position being established, that a number of whites more +than sufficient might be obtained, eligible and fit to perform +the duties of civil magistrates, which they would be induced to +undertake, if adequate terms were only proposed, it would seem that +no ill consequences might be expected from at once assimilating +the regulations of these provincial judicatures to those of the +corregimientos, or mayoralties of towns in Spain, or in making out an +express statute, on a triple scale, for three classes of magistrates, +granting to them emoluments equivalent to the greater or lesser +extent of the respective jurisdictions. As far as regards the pay, it +ought to be so arranged as to act as a sufficient stimulus to induce +European colonists to embrace this career, in a fixed and permanent +way, which hitherto they have only resorted to as a five years' +speculation. Conformably to this suggestion, and owing to the lesser +value attached to money in India, compared with Europe, on account of +the greater abundance of the necessaries of life, I am of opinion that +it would be expedient to affix an annual allowance of $2,000 to each +of the appointments of the six principal and most populous provinces, +$1,500 for the next in importance, and for the twelve or thirteen +remaining, at the rate of $1,000 each; leaving to the candidates +the option of rising according to their length of services and good +conduct, from the lowest to the highest, as is the case in Spain. + +[Objects to be gained.] The first part of the plan above pointed +out embraces two objects. The one is to prevent the provincial +magistrates from carrying on traffic, thus depriving them of every +pretext to defraud the natives of what is their own; and the other, +to form, in the course of a few years a class of men hitherto unknown +in the Philippine Islands, who, taught by practice, may be enabled to +govern the provinces in a more correct and regular manner, and acquire +more extended knowledge, especially in the judicial proceedings of +the first instance, which, owing to this defect, frequently compel +the litigants to incur useless expenses, and greatly embarrass the +ordinary course of justice. Although the second part at first seems +to involve an increased expense of $36,000 or $37,000 annually, +when well considered, this sum will be found not to exceed $20,000, +because it will be necessary to deduct from the above estimate the +amount of three per cent. under the existing regulations allowed to +the magistrates for the collection of the native tributes, in their +character of subdelegates, generally amounting to $16,000 or $17,000; +besides only taking into account such real and effective disbursements +or extraordinary expenses as in fact they may legally have incurred +in the performance of their duties. + +Should it, however, be deemed expedient, from causes just in their +nature, hereafter to exonerate the natives from the obligations of +paying tributes, by which means the amount deducted for the three +per cent. commission could not then be brought into account, let +me be allowed to ask what enlightened government would hesitate +submitting to an additional expense of so trifling an import, in +exchange for beholding more than two millions of men forever freed +from the extortionate acts of their old magistrates; and, through +the effects of the new regulations, the latter converted into real +fathers of the people over whom they are placed? How different would +then be the aspect these fine provinces would present to the eyes +of the philosophical observer who would, in that case, be able to +calculate to what an extent the progress of agriculture and industry +in these islands might be carried. + +[Demoralization of over-seas service.] Nevertheless, I do not wish +to insinuate that by the better organization of the provincial +governments, the present irregularities and abuses of authority +would entirely cease; because I am aware, more especially in the +Indies, that the persons who hold public situations usually have too +exaggerated ideas of their own personal importance, and easily mistake +the gratification of their own whims for firmness of character, +in the necessity of causing themselves to be respected. Still it +is an incontestable fact that, by removing the chief temptation, +and rescinding altogether the license to trade, the just complaints +preferred by the native against the Spaniard would cease; the motives +of those continual disputes which arise between the magistrates +and the ministers of the gospel exercising their functions in the +same provinces, and the zealous defenders of the rights of their +parishioners, would be removed, and the inhabitants of Manila, +extending their mercantile operations to the interior, without the +dread of seeing them obstructed through the powerful competition +of the magistrates in authority there, would be induced to settle +in or connect themselves with the provinces, and thus diffuse their +knowledge, activity and money among the inhabitants, the true means +of encouraging the whole. + +What has already been said will suffice to convince the lover of +truth and the friend of general prosperity, how urgent it is to +introduce as early as possible, the reform proposed into the interior +administration of this important, although neglected colony; and it +is to be hoped that the government, guided by these same sentiments, +will not be led away by those narrow-minded people, who predict danger +from every thing that is new; but, after due and mature deliberation, +resolve to adopt a measure dictated by reason, and at the same time +conformable to the best interests of the state. + +Of little avail would have been the valor and constancy with which +Legaspi and his worthy companions overcame the natives of these +islands, if the apostolic zeal of the missionaries had not seconded +their exertions, and aided to consolidate the enterprise. The latter +were the real conquerors; they who, without any other arms than their +virtues, won over the good will of the islanders, caused the Spanish +name to be beloved, and gave to the king, as it were by a miracle, +two millions more of submissive and Christian subjects. These were +the legislators of the barbarous hordes who inhabited the islands +of this immense Archipelago, realizing, by their mild persuasion, +the allegorical prodigies of Amphion and Orpheus. + +[Pioneer Philippine government a theocracy.] As the means the +missionaries called in to their aid, in order to reduce and civilize +the Indians, were preaching and other spiritual labors, and, although +scattered about and acting separately, they were still subject to +the authority of their prelates, who, like so many chiefs, directed +the grand work of conversion, the government primitively established +in these colonies must necessarily have partaken greatly of the +theocratical order, and beyond doubt it continued to be so, till, +by the lapse of time, the number of colonists increased, as well as +the effective strength of the royal authority, so as to render the +governing system uniform with that established in the other ultramarine +dominions of Spain. + +This is also deduced from the fragments still remaining of the first +constitution, or mode of government introduced in the Batanes Islands +and missions of Cagayan, administered by the Dominican friars in a +spiritual and temporal manner; as well as from what may frequently be +observed in the other provinces, by any one who bestows the smallest +attention. Although the civil magistracies have since been regulated, +and their respective attributes determined with due precision, it has +not hitherto been possible, notwithstanding the pains taken to make the +contrary appear, to do without the personal authority and influence +the parish curates possess over their flocks. The government has, in +fact, constantly been obliged to avail themselves of this aid, as the +most powerful instrument to insure respect and a due subordination, +in such manner that, although the parish curates are not at present +equally authorized to interfere in the civil administration, in point +of fact, they are themselves the real administrators. + +[Standing of parish priests.] It happens that, as the parish curate +is the consoler of the afflicted, the peacemaker of families, the +promoter of useful ideas, the preacher and example of every thing good; +as in him liberality is seen to shine, and the Indians behold him alone +in the midst of them, without relatives, without traffic, and always +busied in their care and improvement, they become accustomed to live +satisfied and contented under his paternal direction, and deliver up to +him the whole of their confidence. In this way rendered the master of +their wishes, nothing is done without the advice, or rather consent, +of the curate. The subaltern governor, on receiving an order from the +superior magistrate, before he takes any step, goes to the minister +to obtain his sanction, and it is he in fact who tacitly gives the +mandate for execution, or prevents its being carried into effect. As +the father of his flock, he arranges, or directs, the lawsuits of +his parishioners; it is he who draws out their writings; goes to the +capital to plead for the Indians; opposes his prayers, and sometimes +his threats, to the violent acts of the provincial magistrates, and +arranges every thing in the most fit and quiet manner. In a word, it +is not possible for any human institution to be more simple, and at +the same time more firmly established, or from which so many advantages +might be derived in favor of the state, as the one so justly admired in +the spiritual ministry of these islands. It may therefore be considered +a strange fatality, when the secret and true art of governing a colony, +so different from any other as is that of the Philippines, consists in +the wise use of so powerful an instrument as the one just described, +that the superior government, within the last few years, should have +been so much deluded as to seek the destruction of a work which, +on the contrary, it is, above all others, advisable to sustain. + +In this, as well as many other cases, we see how difficult, or rather +how absurd it is, to expect to organize a system of government, +indistinctly adapted to the genius and disposition of all nations, +however great the discordance prevailing in their physical and moral +constitutions. Hence it follows that, by wishing to assimilate +the administrative plan of these provinces to the one adopted in +the sections of America, inconveniences are unceasingly met with, +evidently arising out of this erroneous principle. Whatever may +be asserted to the contrary, there is no medium. It is necessary to +insure obedience either through dread and force, or respect must be +excited by means of love and confidence. In order to be convinced that +the first is not practicable, it will only be necessary to weigh well +the following circumstances and reflections. + +The number of the whites compared to that of the natives is so +small, that it can scarcely be estimated in the proportion of 15 +to 25,000. These provinces, infinitely more populous than those of +America, are entirely delivered up to the charge of provincial [Friars +only check on officials.] magistrates, who carry with them to the seats +of their respective governments, no other troops than the title of +military commandants, and their royal commission on parchment. Besides +the friars, it sometimes happens that no other white person is to be +found in an entire province, but the presiding magistrate. It is the +duty of the latter to collect in the king's revenue; to pursue robbers; +appease tumults; raise men for the regiments in garrison at Manila and +Cavite; regulate and head his people in case of an external invasion, +and, in short, it is he who is to do everything in the character of +magistrate and in the name of the king. Considering, therefore, the +effective power required for the due performance of so great a variety +of duties, and the want of that species of support experienced by him +who is charged with them, can it be denied that it would be risking the +security of these dominions too much, to attempt forcibly to control +them with means so insufficient? If the inhabitants become tumultuous +and rise up, on whom will the magistrate call for aid to repress and +punish them? In such a predicament, is any other alternative left him +than to fly or die in the struggle? If among civilized nations, it is +deemed indispensable that authority should always appear accompanied +with force, how can it be expected, among Indians, that the laws will +otherwise be respected, when left naked and unsupported? + +[Missionaries' achievements.] Evidently, it is necessary to appeal to +aid of another kind, and to employ means, which, although indirect +ones, are, beyond all dispute, the best adapted to the peculiar +circumstances of the country,--means which, by influencing the mind, +excite veneration, subdue the rude understanding of the inhabitants, +and incline them to bear our dominion without repugnance. It is well +understood what these means are, how much they are at hand, and how +greatly also they have always been envied by other European nations, +who have sought to extend and consolidate their conquests in both +the Indies. Let us listen to La Pérouse, if we wish to know and +admire the army with which our missionaries subdued the natives of +both Californias; let us read, dispassionately, the wonderful deeds +of the Jesuits in other parts of America, and, above all, let us +visit the Philippine Islands and, with astonishment, shall we there +behold extended ranges, studded with temples and spacious convents; +the Divine worship celebrated with pomp and splendor; regularity +in the streets, and even luxury in the houses and dress; schools +of the first rudiments in all the towns, and the inhabitants well +versed in the art of writing. We shall there see causeways raised, +bridges of a good architecture built, and, in short, all the measure +of good government and police, in the greatest part of the country, +carried into effect, yet the whole is due to the exertions, apostolic +labors and pure patriotism of the ministers of religion. Let us +travel over the provinces, and we shall there see towns of 5000, +10,000, and 20,000 Indians, peacefully governed by one weak old man, +who, with his doors open at all hours, sleeps quiet and secure in +his dwelling, without any other magic, or any other guards, than the +love and respect with which he has known to inspire his flock. And, +when this is contemplated, can it be deemed possible, through foolish +jealousy and vain wish for those persons only pointed out by the +general laws in ordinary cases, to intervene in the government of the +natives, that the fruit of so much time constancy are not to be lost, +but also by hereafter disregarding and rejecting a co-operation, +as efficient as it is economical, that attempts should purposely be +made to destroy the mainspring of the whole of this political machine? + +[Curtailing priestly authority.] Such, nevertheless, are the mistaken +ideas which, within the last few years, have unhappily led to the +adoption of measures, diametrically opposed to the public interest, +under the pretext of curtailing the excessive authority of the +parish-curates. The superior government, not satisfied with having +deprived the ministers of the faculty of personally prescribing certain +correctional punishments, which although of little moment, when applied +with discretion, greatly contributed to fortify their ascendency, +and consequently, that of the sovereign; but, in order to exclude and +divest them of all intervention in the civil administration, a direct +attempt has also been made to lower the esteem in which they are held, +by awakening the distrust of the Indian, and, as much as possible, +removing him to a greater distance from them. In proof of this, and +in order that what has been said may not be deemed an exaggeration, +it will suffice to quote the substance of two regulations, remarkable +for their obvious tendency to weaken the influence and credit of the +spiritual administrators. + +By one of these, it is enacted that in order to prevent the abuses +and notorious malversation of the funds of the sanctuary, specially +applicable to the expenses of the festivities and worship of each +parish, and arising out of the real and half for this purpose +contributed by each tributary person, and collected and privately +administered by the curate, the same shall hereafter be kept in a chest +with three keys, and lodged in the head-town of each province. The keys +are to be left, one in possession of the chief magistrate, another in +the hands of the governor of the respective town, and the remaining +one with the parish-curate. By the other measure it is declared, as +a standing rule, that no Indian, who may lately have been employed +in the domestic service of the curate, shall in his own town be +considered eligible to any office belonging to the judicial department. + +On measures of this kind, comments are unnecessary; their meaning and +effect cannot be mistaken. I shall, therefore, merely observe, that +no untimely means could have been devised more injurious to the state, +to the propagation of religion, and even to the natives themselves. It +is, in fact, a most strange affair, that such endeavors should have +been made to impeach the purity, by at the same time degrading the +respectable character of the parish-curates, more particularly at a +period when, owing to partality and the scarcity of religious men, +it would have seemed more natural to uphold, and by new inducements +encourage the zeal and authority of the remaining few. This step +appears the more singular, I repeat, at a moment when, neither +by suspending the sending out of missionaries to China, and the +almost entire abandonment of the spiritual conquest of the Igorots +and other infidel tribes, inhabiting the interior of these islands, +have the above Spanish laborers been able to carry on the ordinary +administration, nor prevent entire provinces from being transferred, +as is now the case, into the hands of Indians and mestizo clergymen +of the Sangley race, who, through their great ignorance, corrupt +morals, and total want of decorum, universally incur the contempt +of the flocks committed to their care, and, in consequence of their +tyrannical conduct, cause the people to sigh for the mild yoke of +their ancient pastors. + +[Friars bulwark of Spanish rule.] If, therefore, it is the wish of +the government to retain the subjection of this colony, and raise +it to the high degree of prosperity of which it is susceptible, +the first thing, in my opinion, that ought to be attended to is the +good organization of its spiritual administration. On this subject +we must not deceive ourselves. I again repeat, that as long as the +local government, in consequence of the want of military forces, +and owing to the scarcity of Europeans, does not in itself possess +the means of insuring obedience, no other alternative remains. It is +necessary to call in to its aid the powerful influence of religion, +and to obtain from the Peninsula fresh supplies of missionaries. As +in their nature the latter are essentially different from the other +public functionaries, it is well known they neither seek nor aspire to +any remuneration for their labors, their only hope being to obtain, +in the opinion of the community at large, that degree of respect to +which they justly consider themselves entitled. Let, therefore, their +pre-eminences be retained to them: let them be treated with decorum; +the care and direction of the Indians confided to their charge, and +they always be found united in support of justice and the legitimate +authority. + +[Unwise to discredit priests.] Nothing is more unjust, and of nothing +have the spiritual directors of the provinces so much reason to +complain, than the little discernment with which they have sometimes +been judged and condemned, by causing the misconduct of some of their +individual members to affect the whole body. Hence is it that no one +can read without shame and indignation, the insidious suggestions and +allusions, derogatory to their character, contained in the Regulations +of Government framed at Manila in the year 1758, and which although +modified by orders of the king, are at the present moment still in +force, owing to the want of others, and found in a printed form in +the hands of every one. Granting that in some particular instances, +real causes of complaint might have existed, yet in the end, what +does it matter if here and there a religious character has abused +the confidence reposed in him, as long as the spirit by which the +generality of them are actuated, corresponds to the sanctity of their +state, and is besides conformable to the views of government? Why +should we be eternally running after an ideal of perfection which +can never be met with? Nor, indeed, is this necessary in the present +construction of society. + +[Testimony in their behalf] If, however, any weight is to be attached +to imposture with which, from personal motives, attempts have been +made to obscure the truth, and prejudice the public mind against +the regular clergy; or, if the just defense on which I have entered, +should be attributed to partiality or visionary impressions, let the +Archives of the Colonial Department be opened, and we shall there +find the report drawn up by order of the king on November 26, 1804, by +the governor of the Philippine Islands, Don Rafael Maria de Aguilar, +with a view to convey information regarding the enquiries at that +time instituted respecting the reduction of the inhabitants of the +Island of Mindoro; a report extremely honorable to the regular clergy, +and dictated by the experience that general had acquired during a +period of more than twelve years he had governed. Therein also will +be seen the answer to the consultation addressed to his successor in +the command, Don Mariano Fernandez de Folgueras, under date of April +25, 1809, in which he most earnestly beseeches the king to endeavor, +by every possible means, to send out religious missionaries; deploring +the decline and want of order he had observed with his own eyes in the +towns administered by native clergymen, and pointing out the urgent +necessity of intrusting the spiritual government of these provinces +to the dexterous management of the former. Testimonies of such weight +are more than sufficient at once to refute the calumnies and contrary +opinions put forth on this subject, and at the same time serve as +irrefragable proofs of the scrupulous impartiality with which I have +endeavored to discuss so delicate a matter. + +In a general point of view, I have alluded to the erroneous system, +which during the last few years has been pursued by the government +with regard to the parish-curates employed in the interior, and also +sufficiently pointed out the advantages reasonably to be expected +if the government, acting on a different policy, or rather guided +by other motives of state, instead of following the literal text +of our Indian legislation, should come to the firm determination of +indirectly divesting themselves of a small portion of their authority +in favor of the religious laborers who are acting on the spot. Having +said thus much, I shall proceed to such further details as are more +immediately connected with the present chapter. + +[Ecclesiastical Organization.] The ecclesiastical jurisdiction is +exercised by the metropolitan archbishop of Manila, aided by the +three suffragans of Nueva Segovia, Nueva Caceres and Cebu. + +The archbishopric of Manila comprehends the provinces of Tondo, +Bulacan, Pampanga, Bataan, Cavite, Laguna de Bay, Zambales, Batangas, +and the Island of Mindoro. + +The bishopric of Nueva Segovia comprehends the province of Pangasinan, +the missions of Ituy and Paniqui, the provinces of Ilocos, Cagayan, +and the missions of the Batanes Islands. + +That of Nueva Caceres comprehends the provinces of Tayabas, Nueva +Ecija, Camarines and Albay. + +That of Cebu comprehends the Islands of Cebu and Bohol, Iloilo, +Capiz and Antique, in the Island of Panay, the Islands of La Paragua, +Negros and Samar, Misamis, Caraga and Zamboanga in that of Mindanao, +and the Mariana Islands. + +The archbishop has a salary of $5,000 and the bishops $4,000 each. The +curacies exceed 500, and although all of them originally were in charge +of persons belonging to the religious orders, owing to the expulsion +of the Jesuits and the excessive scarcity of regular clergy, so many +native priests have gradually been introduced among them, that, +at present, nearly half the towns are under their direction. The +rest are administered by the religious orders of St. Augustine, +St. Dominic and St. Francis, in the following manner: + + + Towns. + The Augustinians 88 + The barefooted Augustinians (Recoletos) 52 + The Dominicans 57 + The Franciscans 96 + Total 293 + + +It ought, however, to be observed, that since the detailed statement +was made out, from which the above extract has been taken, so many +members of the religious orders have died, that it has been necessary +to replace them in many towns with native clergymen, as a temporary +expedient, and till new missionaries shall arrive from Spain. + +[Dual supervision over friars.] The monastic curates are immediately +subject to their provincial superior, in the character of friars but +depend on the diocesan bishop in their quality of parish priests; and +in like manner obey their own provincial vicars, as well as those of +the bishop. They are alternately eligible to the dignities of their +own order, and generally promoted, or relieved from their ministry, +at the discretion of the provincial chapter, or according to the final +determination of the vice-patron or bishop, affixed to the triple +list presented to him. Besides the ordinary obligations attached to +the care of souls, they are enjoined to assist at the elections of +governors and other officers of justice, in their respective towns, +in order to inform the chief magistrate respecting the aptitude of +the persons proposed for election on the triple lists, and to point +out the legal defects attributable to any of them. On this account, +they are not, however, allowed to interfere in the smallest degree +with any of these proceedings, and much less make a formal proposal, +as most assuredly would be advisable if permitted so to do, in favor +of any particular person or persons in their opinion fit for the +discharge of the above mentioned duties. It is their obligation to +ascertain the correctness of the tribute lists presented to them +for their examination and signature by the chief of the clans, +by carefully comparing them with the registers kept in their own +department; and also to certify the general returns, without which +requisite the statements transmitted by the chief magistrates to +the accountant-general's office are not admitted. Above all they +are bound to affix their signatures to the effective payments made +by the magistrate to their parishioners on account of daily labor, +and to certify similarly the value of materials employed in public +works. Besides the above, they are continually called upon to draw +up circumstantial reports, or declarations, required by the superior +tribunals; they receive frequent injunctions to co-operate in the +increase of the king's revenue and the encouragement of agriculture +and industry; in a word, there is scarcely a thing to which their +attention is not called, and to which it is not expected they should +contribute by their influence, directly or indirectly. + +[Allowances from treasury.] The royal treasury pays them an annual +allowance equal to $180, in kind and money, for each five hundred +tributes under their care, and this, added to the emoluments of the +church, renders the total proceeds of a curacy generally equivalent +to about from six to eight reals for each entire tribute; but +from this allowance are to be deducted the expenses of coadjutors, +subsistence, servants, horses, and all the other charges arising +out of the administration of such wearisome duties; nor are the +parishioners under any other obligation than to provide the churches +with assistants, or sacristans and singers, and the curates with +provisions at tariff prices. + +[Need of more European clergy.] Finally, as from what has been above +stated it would appear, that as many as five hundred religious persons +are necessary for the spiritual administration of the interior towns +and districts, besides the number requisite to do the duty and fill +the dignities of the respective orders and convents in the capital, +independent of which there ought to be a proportionate surplus, +applicable to the progressive reduction of the infidel tribes +inhabiting the uplands, as well as the preaching of the Gospel +in China and Cochinchina, most assuredly, it would be expedient +to assemble and keep together a body of no less than seven hundred +persons, if it is the wish of the government, on a tolerable scale, to +provide for the wants of these remote missions. At the present moment +the number does not exceed three hundred, including superannuated, +exempt from service, and lay-brothers, whilst the native clergymen +in effective possession of curacies, and including substitutes, +coadjutors and weekly preachers, exceed one thousand. And as the +latter, in general unworthy of the priesthood, are rather injurious +than really serviceable to the state, it should not be deemed unjust +if they were altogether deprived of the dignity of parish curates, +and only allowed to exercise their functions in necessary cases, or by +attaching them to the curacies in the quality of coadjutors. By this +plan, at the same time that the towns would be provided with suitable +and adequate ministers, the native clergymen would be distributed +in a proper manner and placed near the religious persons charged +to officiate, would acquire the necessary knowledge and decorum, +and in the course of time might obtain character and respect among +their countrymen. + +To many, a measure of this kind may, in some respects, appear harsh +and arbitrary; but persons, practically acquainted with the subject +and country, will deem it indispensable, and the only means that +can be resorted to, in order to stop the rapid decline remarkable in +this interesting department of public administration. Fortunately, +no grounded objections can be alleged against it; nor is there any +danger of serious consequences resulting from the plan being carried +into effect. In vain would it be to argue that, if the reform is to +take place, a large number of priests would be reduced to beggary, +owing to the want of occupation; because, as things now stand, many of +the religious curates employ three or four coadjutors, and, no doubt, +they would then gladly undertake to make provision for the remainder +of those who may be thrown out of employment. On the other hand, with +equal truth it may be observed that the inhabitants of the interior, +far from regretting, or taking part on behalf of the native clergy, +would celebrate, as a day of gladness and rejoicing, the removal of +the latter, in return for their beloved Castilian Fathers. + +[Restriction of native ordinations recommended.] In case the ideas +above suggested should be adopted in all their parts, it may be proper +to add that an injunction ought to be laid on the reverend bishops +in future to confer holy orders with more scrupulosity and economy, +than, unfortunately, heretofore has been the case; by representing to +them that, if, at certain periods the Popes have been influenced by +powerful reasons not to insist on ordinations taking place in Europe, +as was formerly the case, very weighty motives now equally urge the +government to decline, in the Philippine Islands, paying so much to +religious vocation, and to relax in the policy of raising the natives +to the dignity of the priesthood. + +[Moro depredations.] Long have the inhabitants of the Philippines +deplored, and in vain remonstrated, against the ravages committed +on their coasts and settlements by the barbarous natives of the +Islands of Mindanao, Basilan and Jolo, as well as by the Malanos, +Ilanos and Tirone Moros and others; and there is nothing that so much +deserves the attention, and interests the honor of the Captain-General +commanding in this quarter, as an early and efficient attempt to check +and punish these cruel enemies. It is indeed true that, in the years +1636 and 1638, General Don Sebastian Hurtado de Corcuera, undertook in +person and happily carried into effect the reduction of the Sultan of +Mindanao and the conquest of the Island of Jolo, placing in the latter +a governor and establishing three military posts there; under the +protection of the garrisons of which, Christianity was considerably +extended. It is equally true, that on the subsequent abandonment of +this important acquisition, owing to the government being compelled to +attend to other urgent matters, the enemy acquired a greater degree of +audacity, and the captain-general in command afterwards sent armaments +to check his inroads. On one of these occasions, our troops obliged an +army of more than 5,000 Moros, who had closely beset the fortress of +Zamboanga, to raise the siege; and also in the years 1731 and 1734, +fresh detachments of our men were landed on the Islands of Jolo, +Capul and Basilan, and their success was followed by the destruction +and ruin of the fortified posts, vessels, and settlements of those +perfidious Mahometans. It is not, however, less certain that at the +periods above mentioned, the war was carried on rather from motives +of punishment and revenge, and suggested by a sudden and passing zeal, +than in conformity to any progressive and well-combined system. Since +then these laudable military enterprises have been entirely neglected, +as well on account of the indolence of some of the governors, as +the too great confidence placed in the protestations of friendship +and treaties of peace with which, from time to time, the Sultans +of Jolo and Mindanao have sought to lull them to sleep. Their want +of sincerity is proved by the circumstance of the piracies of their +respective subjects not ceasing, the chiefs sometimes feigning they +were carried on without their license or knowledge; and, at others, +excusing themselves on the plea of their inability to restrain the +insolence of the Tirones and other independent tribes. Nevertheless, +it is notorious that the above-mentioned sultans indirectly encouraged +the practice of privateering, by affording every aid in their power +to those who fitted out vessels, and purchasing from the pirates all +the Christians they captured and brought to them. + +[A missionary's appeal.] Father Juan Angeles, superior of the mission +established in Jolo, at the request of Sultan Alimudin himself (or +Ferdinand I as he was afterwards unworthily called on being made a +Christian with no other view than the better to gain the confidence +of the Spaniards) in a report he sent to the government from the +above Island, under date of September 24, 1748, describing the +Sultan's singular artifices to amuse him and frustrate the object +of his mission, fully confirms all that has just been said, and, +on closing his report, makes use of the following remarkable words: + +"When is it we shall have had enough of treaties with these Moros, for +have we not before us the experience of more than one hundred years, +during which period of time, they have not kept a single article +in any way burdensome to, or binding on, themselves? They will never +observe the conditions of peace, because their property consists in the +possession of slaves, and with them they traffic, the same as other +nations do with money. Sooner will the hawk release his prey from +his talons than they will put an end to their piracies. The cause of +their being still unfaithful to Spain arises out of this matter having +been taken up by fits and starts, and not in the serious manner it +ought to have been done. To make war on them, in an effectual manner, +fleets must not be employed, but they must be attacked on land, and +in their posts in the interior; for it is much more advisable at once +to spend ten with advantage and in a strenuous manner to attain an +important object than to lay out twenty by degrees and without fruit." + +[Governmental lenience.] It is an undeniable fact that the government, +lulled and deceived by the frequent embassies and submissive and +crouching letters which those fawning sultans have been in the habit +of transmitting to them, instead of adopting the energetic measures +urged by the above-mentioned missionary, have constantly endeavored +to renew and secure the friendship of those chiefs, by means of +treaties and commercial relations; granting, with this view, ample +licenses to every one who ventured to ship merchandise to Jolo, and +winking at the traffic carried on by the governors of the fortress of +Zamboanga with the people of Mindanao; whilst the latter, on their +part, sporting with our foolish credulity, have never ceased waging +a most destructive war against us, by attacking our towns situated +on the coast, not even excepting those of the Island of Luzon. They +have sometimes carried their audacity so far as to show themselves +in the neighborhood of the capital itself, and at others taken up +their temporary residence in the district of Mindoro and in places +of the jurisdictions of Samar and Leyte; and in short, even dared +to form an establishment or general deposit for their plunder in the +Island of Buras, where they quietly remained during the years 1797, +1798 and 1799 to the great injury of our commerce and settlements. + +[Authority for war not lacking.] This want of exertion to remedy evils +of so grievous a nature is the more to be deplored as the Philippine +governors have at all times been fully authorized to carry on war, +and promote the destruction of the Moros, under every sacrifice, and +especially by the royal orders and decrees of October 26, and November +1, 1758, and July 31, 1766, in all of which his majesty recommends, +in the most earnest manner, "the importance of punishing the audacity +of the barbarous infidels, his majesty being desirous that, in order +to maintain his subjects of the Philippines free from the piracies and +captivity they so frequently experience, no expenses or pains should +be spared; it being further declared, that as this is an object deeply +affecting the conscience of his majesty, he especially enjoins the +aforesaid government to observe his order; and finally, with a view +to provide for the exigencies arising out of similar enterprises, +the viceroy of New Spain is instructed to attend to the punctual +remittance, not only of the usual "situado," or annual allowance, +but also of the additional sum of $70,000 in the first and succeeding +years, etc." In a word, our monarchs, Ferdinand VI and Carlos III, +omitted nothing that could in any way promote so important an object; +whether it is that the governors have disregarded such repeated orders +from the sovereigns, or mistaken the means by which they were to be +carried into effect, certain it is that the unhappy inhabitants of +the Philippines have continued to be witnesses, and at the same time +the victims of the culpable apathy of those who have successively +held the command of these Islands within the last fifty or sixty years. + +[Native efforts for self-defence.] Abandoned therefore to their own +resources, and from time to time relieved by the presence of a few +gunboats which, after scouring the coasts, have never been able +to come up with the light and fast sailing vessels of the enemy, +the inhabitants of our towns and settlements have been under the +necessity of intrenching and fortifying themselves in the best way +they were able, by opening ditches and planting a breastwork of stakes +and palisades, crowned with watch towers, or a wooden or stone castle; +precautions which sometimes are not sufficient against the nocturnal +irruptions and robberies of the Moros, more especially when they come +with any strength and fire-arms, in general scarce among the natives. + +[Moro piratical craft.] The pancos, or prows, used by the Moros, are +light and simple vessels, built with numerous thin planks and ribs, +with a small draft of water; and being manned by dexterous rowers, +they appear and disappear from the horizon with equal celerity, flying +or attacking, whenever they can do it with evident advantage. Some +of those vessels are large, and fitted out with fifty, a hundred, +and sometimes two hundred men. The shots of their scanty and defective +artillery are very uncertain, because they generally carry their guns +suspended in slings; but they are to be dreaded, and are extremely +dexterous in the management of the campilan, or sword, of which they +wear the blades long and well tempered. When they have any attack +of importance in view, they generally assemble to the number of +two hundred galleys, or more, and even in their ordinary cruises, +a considerable number navigate together. As dread and the scarcity +of inhabitants in the Bisayan Islands cause great ranges of the coast +to be left unsettled, it is very easy for the Moros to find numerous +lurking-places and strongholds whenever they are pressed, and their +constant practice, in these cases, is to enter the rivers, ground +their vessels, and hide them among the mangroves and thick foliage, +and fly with their arms to the mountains, thus almost always laughing +at the efforts of their opponents, who seldom venture to follow them +into the thickets and morasses, where the musket is of no use and a +single step cannot be taken with any security. + +[Outrages suffered.] The fatal consequences and ravages of this system +of cruising and warfare round the Islands are incalculable. Besides +plundering and burning the towns and settlements, these bloody +pirates put the old and helpless to the sword, destroy the cattle +and plantations, and annually carry off to their own homes as many as +a thousand captives of both sexes, who, if they are poor and without +hopes of being redeemed, are destined to drag out a miserable existence +amidst the most fatiguing and painful labor, sometimes accompanied +with torments. Such is the dread and apprehension of these seas that +only those navigate and carry on trade in them who are able to arm and +man their vessels in a way corresponding to the great risks they have +to run, or others whom want compels to disregard the imminent dangers +which await them. Among the latter class, the Bisayans, or "painted +(tattooed) natives," are distinguished, an extremely warlike people of +whom great use might be made. Reared from their infancy amidst danger +and battle, and greatly resembling the Moros in their features and +darkness of skin, they are equally alike in the agility with which +they manage the long sword and lance, and such is the courage and +implacable odium with which they treat their enemies that, if not taken +by surprise, they sell their lives very dear, sacrificing themselves +in a most heroic manner, rather than to be led away as captives. + +In order, however, that a more correct idea may be formed of the +wicked policy and atrocious disposition of these Moros, and with a +view to do away with the misconceptions of those who are of opinion +that incentives to trade, and other slow and indirect means ought +to be employed for the purpose of overcoming them, it will suffice +to quote the following examples among a number of others, even more +recent ones, which might equally be brought forward. + +[Instances of treachery.] In 1796, the governor of Zamboanga +dispatched, with regular passports and under a safe conduct obtained +from the Sultan of Mindanao, Lieutenant Don Pantaleon Arcillas, +with a sergeant, eight men, and a guide, in order to bring into +the fortress the cattle belonging to the king's farm, which had +strayed away and got up in the lands of the above-mentioned Mahometan +prince. Five days after their departure, whilst the lieutenant was +taking his meals at the house of a "Datu," or chief, named Oroncaya, +he was suddenly surrounded by seventy Moros, who, seizing upon him, +bound him to a tree and then flayed him alive, from the forehead to +the ankle. In this miserable and defenceless situation, the barbarous +"Datu" wreaked his vengeance on his body by piercing it all over +with his "kris," or dagger, and then ordered his skin to be hung up +on the pole of one of his ferocious banners. + +In the year 1798, whilst the schooner San José lay at anchor at +Tabitabi, near Jolo, the sons-in-law and nephews of the sultan went +out to meet her in two large prows, exhibiting at the same time every +demonstration of peace, and, sending forward a small vessel with +refreshments, they invited the captain to come on board of them. The +latter, deceived by the apparent frankness and high rank of the Moros, +with the greatest good faith accepted the invitation, and proceeded on +board, accompanied by two sailors, with a view to make arrangements +for barter. Scarcely had they got on board of the large prow, when +they were surrounded and seized, and the captain, who was a Spaniard, +compelled to sign an order to his mate to deliver up the schooner, +which he reluctantly did, under the hope of saving his own and his +companions' lives. The Moros proceeded on board the Spanish vessel, +and, in the meantime, the two sailors were taken back to the boat, +and there killed with daggers in the presence of all. The schooner's +sails were next hoisted, and she was brought into Jolo, where the cargo +and crew were sold in sight of, and with the knowledge and consent of +the sultan; an atrocity for which he has always refused to give any +satisfaction to a nation, thus openly and barbarously outraged by his +own relatives, and in defiance of the existing treaties of peace. Such +is the cruel character, and such the execrable policy of the Moros +generally inhabiting the Islands situated in the Philippine seas. + +[Growth of Moro power.] The most lamentable circumstance is, that +these infidel races, at all times to be dreaded, owing to their +numbers and savage ferocity, after the lapse of a century of almost +uninterrupted prosperity, and encouraged also by our inattention, +have at length gradually attained so formidable a degree of power, +that their reduction now must be considered an extremely arduous and +expensive enterprise, although an object urgently requisite, and worthy +of the greatness of a nation like ours. In order, however, that the +difficulties of so important an undertaking may be justly appreciated, +it may be proper to observe that the Island of Mindanao alone, at +the present moment, contains a population equal, if not larger, than +that of Luzon, and the margins of the immense lake, situated in its +center, are covered with well-built towns, filled with conveniences, +the fruits of their annual privateering, and of the traffic they +carry on with the inhabitants of the Island of Jolo. True it is, +and it may be said, equally fortunate, that they are greatly divided +into parties, subject to a variety of "datus," or independent chiefs, +in name only inferior to the one who styles himself the sultan of the +whole Island. As, however, the fortresses and districts of Caraga, +Misamis, and Zamboanga occupy nearly three parts of the circumference +of the Island, these Moros freely possess no more than the southern +part, commencing at about twenty-five leagues from Cape San Augustin, +and ending in the vicinity of Zamboanga; so that the largest number +of their naval armaments are fitted out and issued to sea, either by +the great river of Mindanao, or from some of the many bays and inlets +situated on the above extent of coast. + +[Jolo.] The Island of Jolo, although small compared with that of +Mindanao, is, nevertheless, in itself the most important, as well +as the real hotbed of all the piracies committed. Its inhabitants, +according to the unanimous reports of captives and various merchants, +in skill and valor greatly exceed the other Mahometans who infest +these seas. The sultan is absolute, and his subjects carry on trade +with Borneo, Celebes, and the other Malayan tribes scattered about +this great Archipelago. In the port of Jolo, as already noticed, +sales are made of Christians captured by the other Moros. The Chinese +of Amoy, as well as the Dutch and British, carry them manufactured +goods, opium and arms, receiving, in return, black pepper, bees' +wax, balato, edible nests, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, gold +dust, pearls, etc., and from Manila also a vessel usually goes once +a year with goods; but all act with the greatest precaution in this +dangerous traffic, guarding, as much as possible, against the insidious +acts of that perfidious government. The great number of renegades, +of all casts, who have successively naturalized themselves there; +the abundance of arms, and the prevailing opulence, have, in every +respect, contributed to render this Island a formidable and powerful +state. The capital is surrounded with forts and thick walls, and +the famous heights, standing near it, in case of emergency, afford a +secure asylum where the women can take refuge and the treasures of +the sultan and public be deposited, whilst in the plains below the +contest may be maintained by more than 50,000 combatants, already +very dexterous in the use of the musket and of a bold and courageous +character. The navy of these Islanders is also very respectable, +for, besides a great number of smaller prows and war-boats, they +have some of a large size, capable of carrying heavy artillery on +their decks, mounted on corresponding carriages, and not suspended +in slings as is the custom of the people of Mindanao. In a word, +Jolo is an Island governed by a system of administration extremely +vigorous and decisive; dread and superstition sustain the throne of +the tyrant, and the fame of his greatness frequently brings to his +feet the ulemas, or missionaries of the Koran, even as far as from +the furthest margin of the Red Sea. The prince and people, unanimous +in the implacable odium with which they view all Christians, cannot +be divided or kept on terms of peace; and if it is really wished to +free these seas from the evils and great dangers with which they are +at all times threatened, it is necessary at once to strike at the +root, by landing and attacking the Jolonese in their strongholds, +and break the charm by which they are held together. + +This, at least, is the constant and unshaken opinion of all +experienced persons and those versed in Philippine affairs; and if, +by the substantial reasons and existing circumstances, I convince +myself sufficiently to openly recommend war to be undertaken against +the Moros and pushed with the utmost vigor, and more particularly +commencing the work by a formal invasion of Jolo; still, as I feel +myself incompetent to trace a precise plan, or to discuss the minute +details more immediately connected with the object, I feel it necessary +to confine myself to the pointing out, in general terms, of the means +I judge most conducive to the happy issue of so arduous but important +an enterprise, leaving the rest to more able and experienced hands. + +[Council of war recommended.] As a previous step, I conceive that +a council of war ought to be formed in Manila, composed of the +captain-general, the commanders of the navy, artillery, and engineer +department, as well as of the regular corps, who, in conformity to +all the antecedent information lodged in the secretary's office for +the captain-generalship, and the previous report of some one of the +ex-governors of Zamboanga and the best informed missionaries, may be +enabled to deliberate and proceed on to a mature examination of the +whole affair, taking into their special consideration everything +regarding Jolo, its early reduction, the number of vessels and +men required for this purpose, the most advantageous points of +attack, and the best season in which this can be carried into +execution. After all these matters have been determined upon, the +operation in question ought to be connected with the other partial +and general arrangements of the government, in order that a plan the +best adapted to localities and existing circumstances may be chosen, +and without its being necessary to wait for the king's approbation +of the means resolved upon, owing to the distance of the court and +the necessity of acting with celerity. If, however, on account of +the deference in every respect due to the sovereign, it should be +thought proper to reconcile his previous sanction with the necessity +of acting without loss of time, the best mode would be to send from +Spain an officer of high rank, fully authorized, who, as practised +on other occasions, might give his sanction, in the name of the king, +to the resolutions adopted by the council of war, and take under his +own immediate charge, if it should be so deemed expedient, the command +of the expedition against Jolo, receiving the appointment of governor +of the Island, as soon as the conquest should be carried into effect, +as a just reward for his zeal and valor. + +[War popular in Philippines.] Supposing an uniformity of opinions to +prevail with regard to the expediency of attempting the subjugation +of Jolo, and supposing also the existence of the necessary funds to +meet the expenses of a corresponding armament, it may be positively +relied upon that the project would be extremely popular, and meet +with the entire concurrence and support of the Philippine Islands. The +military men, aware of the great riches known to exist in the proposed +theatre of operations, would emulously come forward to offer their +services, under a hope of sharing the booty, and the warlike natives +of the Bisayas would be impelled on by their hatred to the Moros, +and their ardent wishes to avenge the blood of their fathers and +children. On the other hand, the abundance of regular and well +disciplined officers and troops, at present in the colony and the +number of gun-boats found in the ports, a want of which, on other +occasions, has always been experienced, will afford ample scope for +the equipment of a force competent to the important enterprise in +view. In fact, if the operation is arranged in a systematic manner, +and all the precautions and rules observed as are usual in cases of +attacks premeditated against European and civilized establishments, +there is no reason to expect any other than a flattering and decisive +result, since, in reality, the whole would be directed against an +enemy contemptible on account of his barbarism and his comparative +ignorance of the art of war. + +[Native assistance.] The preparations deemed necessary being made in +Manila, and the Bisayan auxiliaries assembled beforehand in Zamboanga, +with their arms and respective chiefs, the whole of the operation +in question, it may be safely said, might be terminated within the +period of three or four months. Supposing even 2,000 regular troops +are destined for this expedition, with a corresponding train of field +pieces, and at the moment there should not be found in the Islands a +sufficient number of larger vessels to embargo or freight for their +conveyance, a competent quantity of coasters, galleys and small craft +might be met with at any time sufficiently capacious and secure to +carry the men. This substitute will be found the less inconvenient, +because, as the navigation is to be performed among the Islands during +the prevalence of the north winds, usually a favorable and steady +season of the year, the voyage will consequently be safe and easy. It +will also be possible to arrive at the point agreed upon, as a general +rendezvous, in twenty, or five-and-twenty days, which place, for many +reasons, ought to be the fortress of Zamboanga, situated in front of +Jolo and at moderate distance from that Island; it being from this port +that, in former times, the Philippine governors usually sent out their +armaments, destined to make war against the Basilanese and Jolonese. + +[Mindanao also needs attention.] As soon as this important and +memorable enterprise has been carried into effect, and the punishment +and total subjugation of these faithless Mahometans completed and +the new conquest placed under a military authority, in the mean +time that the lands are distributing and arrangements making to +establish the civil administration, on the same plan followed in the +other provinces of the Philippine government, the armament ought to +return to Zamboanga with all possible speed; but, after stopping by +the way to reduce the small island of Basilan and leaving a fortress +and garrison there. Immediately afterwards, and before the various +tribes of Moros inhabiting the Island of Mindanao have been able to +concert among themselves and prepare for their defence, it would +be advisable to direct partial expeditions towards both flanks of +Zamboanga, for the purpose of burning the settlements of the natives +and driving them from the shores into the interior. Forts ought then +to be raised at the mouths of the inlets and rivers, and a fourth +district government formed in the southern part of the island; in such +manner that, by possession being taken of the coasts, the government +and district of Zamboanga may be placed in contact with the new +one established on the one side, and on the other with the district +of Misamis, also the new district with that of Caraga, the western +part of which territory is already united to that of Misamis. Such, +at least, was the opinion of Lieutenant-Colonel Don Mariano Tobias, +an officer deservedly celebrated for his prudence and consummate skill +in these matters, and this he substantially expressed in a council +of war, held on August 28, 1778, for the purpose of deliberating on +the most advisable means to check the Moros, as appears by a long +and intelligent report drawn upon this subject on April 26, 1800, +by the adjutant-general of this colony, Don Rufino Suarez. + +In case it should be determined to adopt the means proposed by Colonel +Tobias, for the purpose of holding the Moros of Mindanao in check, +and to which, unfortunately, due regard has not hitherto been paid, +notwithstanding the enterprise presents very few difficulties, owing +to the little opposition to be expected from the infidel natives, +the latter would then be left completely surrounded and shut up in +the heart of the island, and their active system of privateering, +with which they have so many years infested these seas, entirely +destroyed. If, through the want of garrisons and population, it should +not, however, be possible to deprive them of all their outlets, by +which means they would still be able occasionally to send some of +their cruising vessels, nevertheless there would be facilities with +which it would be possible to pursue and counteract the ravages of +the few pirates who might furtively escape out of some river, while +now they are fitted out, and well manned and armed to the number of +one and two hundred war-boats, openly in their ports. + +[A plan for future policing.] After the emporiums of slavery have +been destroyed by the conquest of Jolo, and the other general +measures adopted, as above pointed out, the government would then +be in a situation to turn its attention, with much greater ease, +to the arrangement of all the other minor schemes of precaution and +protection suited to the difference of circumstances and locality, +without the concurrence of which the work would be left imperfect, +and in some degree the existence of those settled in the new +establishments rendered precarious. As, however, I am unprepared +minutely to point out the nature of these measures, or distinctly +to lay down a ground-work for future civilization and improvement, +I shall merely observe, that what would then remain to be done would +neither require any great capital, or present obstacles which might +not easily be overcome. The Moros being then concentrated in the +Island of Mindanao, and this completely surrounded on all sides by our +forts and settlements, in the manner above described, the only enemies +let loose on these seas would be either the few who might, from time +to time, elude the vigilance of our troops and district-commanders, +or those who might have escaped from Jolo previous to its conquest, +and taken up their abode in one or other of the Bisayas Islands; or, +in short, such as are out cruising at the time our armament returns +to Zamboanga and takes possession of the southern coast of Mindanao; +in which case they would be compelled to resort to a roving life, +establishing, like the Jolo fugitives, temporary dwellings among the +mangroves and thickets bordering on the shore. + +The principal objects then remaining for the attention of government +would be to guard and protect the towns and settlements established +on the coasts from the insults and inroads of banditti, impelled by +necessity or despair, and at the same time to promote the gradual +overthrow or civilization of the dispersed remnant of Moorish +population left in the Island. The cruising of the pirates being +thus reduced to a space comprehended in an oblong circle formed by +an imaginary line drawn from the southern extreme of the Island of +Leyte, to the south-west point of Samar, which next running along +the north-west coast of Mindoro, on the outside of Tacao and Burias, +and coming down to the west of Panay, Negros and Bohol, closes the +oval at the little island formed by the Strait of Panaon, about forty +gunboats might be advantageously stationed in the narrowest passages +from land to land; as, for example, in the Strait of San Juanico and +other passes of a similar kind, well known to the local pilots. By this +means, the limits would be gradually contracted. Various small naval +armaments ought, at the same time, to keep cruising in the center +of this circle, pursuing the Moros by sea and land, dislodging them +from their strongholds and lurking places, and sending on those who +might be captured to the depot pointed out by government. + +[Feasibility of plans.] The first part of the plan would be the +more easily realized, as it is well-known that most of the districts +corresponding to the Bisayan tribes, including those of Camarines and +Albay, situated at the extremity of the island of Luzon, have several +gunboats of their own, which might be used with great advantage. By +merely advancing and stationing them in such channels as the Moros +must necessarily pass, either in going out or returning, according to +the different monsoons, they would easily be checked, without removing +the gunboats to any great distance from their own coasts. As besides +the great advantages resulting from this plan and every one doing +his duty are apparent, no doubt numbers of natives would volunteer +their services, more particularly if they were liberally rewarded, +and their maintenance provided from the funds of the respective +communities. Moreover, the points which at first should not be +considered as sufficiently guarded might be strengthened by the king's +gunboats, and, indeed, in all of them it would be advisable to station +some of the latter, commanded by a select officer, to whose orders +the captains of the provincial gunboats ought to be made subservient. + +With regard to the second part, it will suffice to observe that the +captain-generalship of the Philippine Islands already possesses as +many as seventy gunboats, besides a considerable number of gallies +and launches, which altogether constitute a formidable squadron +of light vessels; and, after deducting those deemed necessary for +the protection of Jolo and the new province to be established in +Mindanao, a sufficient number would still be left to carry into +execution all the objects proposed. At present, although the Moros +navigate in numerous divions, and with a confidence inspired by their +undisturbed prosperity, a 24-pounder shot from one of our launches is +nevertheless sufficient to put them to flight; what therefore may not +be expected when their forces shall be so greatly diminished and their +apprehensions increased, of being defeated and captured? Nevertheless, +as it is not easy for our gunboats to come up with them, when giving +chase, it would be advisable to add to our cruisers a temporary +establishment of prows and light vessels, manned by Bisayan Indians, +which, by advancing on with the gallies, might attack the enemy and +give time for the gunboats to come up and decide the action. Besides as +the Bisayan Indians are perfectly acquainted with the mode of making +war on the Moros, the meaning of their signals and manoeuvers and +the kind of places on shore in which they take shelter when pursued +at sea, the employment of such auxiliaries would be extremely useful. + +[Need of undivided leadership.] The whole of these defensive and +offensive arrangements would, however, be ineffectual or incomplete +in their results, if the most perfect union and concert is not +established in every part, so that all should conspire to the same +object, although by distinct means. In order therefore that the +necessary harmony may be secured, it would be expedient to remove the +chief authority nearer to the theater of war, by confiding all the +necessary instructions and powers to the person who might be selected +for the direction and command of the enterprise, after the general +plan of operations had been regularly approved. Under this impression, +and with a view to the better execution of all the details, it would +be advisable for the commanding officer, named by the government, +to take up his headquarters in the Island of Panay, which, owing to +its geographical situation, the great number of towns and inhabitants +contained in the three provinces into which it is divided, as well +as other political reasons, is generally esteemed preferable for the +object in question, to the Island of Zebu, where, in former times, +the commanders of the province of the painted natives resided, +as mentioned in the laws of the Indies. The center of action being +placed in Iloilo, a communication with the other points would thus +more easily be kept open, aid and relief might be sent more rapidly +to the quarter where required, and, in a word, all the movements, +of whatsoever kind they might be, would be executed with greater +precision and certainty of success. It would be unnecessary to +add that the provincial magistrates of Camarines and Albay ought to +co-operate, with their fourteen gunboats and other smaller vessels, in +the measures adopted by the commander of the Bisayan establishment, +distributing their forces according to the orders given by him, +and by undertaking to guard the straits of San Bernardino. + +[Paragua.] The Island of Paragua, at the head of which the +provincial jurisdiction of Calamianes is placed, is not included +in the great circle, or chain of stations, above traced out, as +well in consequence of its great distance from the other islands, +for which reason it is not so much infested by the Moros, as because +of its being at present nearly depopulated and uncultivated, and for +these reasons the attention of government ought not to be withdrawn +from other more important points. With regard to that of Mindanao, +the necessity of keeping up along the whole of its immense coast, a +line of castles and watch towers, has already been fully pointed out, +more especially in the vicinity of the bay of Panguil, to the north, +and the mouths of the great river towards the south; the two points +in which the enemies' most formidable armaments are usually fitted +out. Consequently, it would not be possible to expect the provincial +commanders stationed there would be able to disengage any part of +their naval force, in order to place it at the disposal of the officer +commanding the Bisayan vessels. Indeed, it is obvious that it would be +extremely important to afford the people of Mindanao every possible +additional aid, in vessels, troops and money, in order the better to +check the sailing of partial divisions of the enemy, and thus prevent +the immense number of pirates, inhabiting the interior of the island, +from breaking the fortified line, and again covering these seas, and +with redoubled fury carrying death and desolation along all the coasts. + +It would, in fact, be extremely desirable if, through the concerted +measures and constant vigilance of the four chief magistrates +intrusted with the command of the island, the future attempts of +the Mindanayans could be entirely counteracted, and their cruisers +altogether kept within the line for a certain period of years; as by +thus depriving them of the facilities to continue their old habits +of life, these barbarous tribes would be eventually compelled to +adopt other pursuits, either by ascending the mountainous parts of +the island, and shutting themselves up in the thick and impenetrable +forests, with a view to preserve their independence; or, throwing +down their arms and devoting themselves to the peaceful cultivation +of their lands. In the latter case, they would gradually lose their +present ferocious character; their regard for the conveniences and +repose of social life would increase; the contrast would be attended +with most favorable consequences, and in the course of time, the whole +of the aboriginal natives of these islands would come into our laws +and customs, and become confounded in the general mass of Philippine +subjects, owing allegiance to the king. + +Finally, it must be equally acknowledged that the Islands of Jolo, +Basilan, Capul, and some of the other inferior ones, of which, +as above pointed out, an union ought to be formed in the way of an +additional government, subordinate to the captain-general, would be +able to co-operate in the war on no other plan than the one traced +out for the provinces held in Mindanao; that is, by their gunboats +being confided to the protection of their own coasts; though with +this difference, that if, in one instance, the main object would be +to prevent the evasion of the enemy, in the other every effort must +be employed to guard against and repel their incursions when they +do appear. However complete the success of the armament, destined +for the reduction of Jolo, it may nevertheless be presumed, that the +mountains would still continue to give shelter to hordes of fugitives, +who would take refuge in the fastnesses, and avail themselves of every +opportunity to concert plans, or fly off to join their comrades in +Mindanao, in order to return, and through their aid, satisfy their +thirst for vengeance, by surprising some fortress or settlement, +or establishing themselves on some neglected and not well known +point. In consequence of this, the governor, commanding there, +would at first require the active co-operation of all his forces, +for the purpose of consolidating the new conquest, and causing his +authority to be respected throughout the island. + +[Importance of peace for Philippine progress.] These, in my opinion, +are the true and secure means by which the enemies of the peace +and prosperity of the Philippines may be humbled, their piracies +prevented, and a basis laid for the future civilization of the +remaining islands in this important Archipelago. To this sketch, +a number of other details and essential illustrations, no doubt, +are wanting; and possibly, I may be accused of some inaccuracies, in +discussing a topic, with which I candidly avow I cannot be considered +altogether familiar. The plan and success of the enterprise must, +however, greatly depend on military skill and talent; but as I have +attempted no more than fairly to trace the general outline of the +plan, and insist on the necessity of its adoption, my remarks, it +is to be hoped, will serve to awaken a serious disposition to review +and investigate the whole subject, a task that most assuredly ought +to be confided to a competent and special council. Whatever defects +I may involuntarily have fallen into, will then be corrected; at the +same time it ought not to appear strange that inexperienced persons +should presume to speak on matters connected with the public good, +when we see them so much neglected by those whose more immediate duty +it is to look after and promote them. At all events, dispassionate +zeal has seldom done harm; and I again repeat, that my wish is not +so much to see my own ideas adopted, as to urge the necessity of +their being examined and digested. I am desirous that other sources +of information on this subject should be explored, that practical men +should be called in, and that those in power should be induced to apply +themselves and devote their exertions to an object so highly deserving +of their attention. In short, I am anxious that the pious injunctions +of our monarchs should be fulfilled, and that the tears and blood of +the inhabitants of these neglected islands should cease to flow. + +Should the happy day ever arrive, when the inhabitants of these +provinces shall behold themselves free from the cruel scourge with +which they have been desolated for so many years, they will bless the +nation that has redeemed them from all their cares, they will tighten +their relations with it, and deliver themselves up to its direction +without reserve. The natives will then come down from the strong +fastnesses they at present inhabit; they will clear fresh lands, and +earnestly devote themselves to tillage and industry. Under the shadow +of peace, population and commerce will increase; the Bisayan vessels +will then plough the ocean without the dread of other enemies than +the elements; and the Moros themselves of Mindanao (I say it with +confidence), straightened on all sides, and incessantly harassed +by the Christians, but on the other hand witnessing the advantages +and mildness of our laws, will at length submit to the dominion of +the monarchs of Spain, who will thus secure the quiet possession of +one of the most interesting portions of the habitable globe, and be +justly entitled to the gratitude of all nations connected with China +and India, for having put an end to a series of the most terrific +plunder and captivity that ever disgraced the annals of any age. + + + +PART III + +Manila in 1842 + +By Com. Charles Wilkes, U.S.N. + +(Narrative of U. S. Exploring Expedition, Vol. V, Chaps. 8 and 9.) + +[Port rules.] At daylight, on January 13, we were again under way, +with a light air, and at nine o'clock reached the roadstead, where we +anchored in six fathoms water, with good holding-ground. Being anxious +to obtain our letters, which, we were informed at Oahu, had been sent +to Manila, I immediately dispatched two boats to procure them. On +their way to the mole, they were stopped by the captain of the port, +Don Juan Salomon, who requested them, in a polite manner, to return, +and informed the officers that, agreeably to the rules of the port, +no boat was permitted to land until the visit of the health-officer +had been made, etc. + +[Official courtesies.] The captain of the port, in a large barge, +was soon seen pulling off in company with the boats. He boarded us +with much ceremony, and a few moments sufficed to satisfy him of +the good health of the crew, when he readily gave his assent to +our visiting the shore. Every kind of assistance was offered me, +on the part of the government, and he, in the most obliging manner, +gave us permission to go and come when we pleased, with the simple +request that the boats should wear our national flag, that they might +at all times be known, and thus be free from any interruption by the +guards. The boats were again dispatched for the consul and letters, +and after being anxiously watched for, returned; every one on board +ship expecting his wishes to be gratified with news from home; but, +as is usual on such occasions, the number of the happy few bore no +comparison to that of the many who were disappointed. + +Our vice-consul, Josiah Moore, Esq., soon paid us a visit, and gave +us a pressing invitation to take up our quarters on shore while we +remained. To this gentleman and Mr. Sturges I am greatly indebted for +much of the information that will be detailed in the following chapter. + +[American hemp ships.] A number of vessels were lying in the roads, +among which were several Americans loading with hemp. There was also a +large English East Indiaman, manned by Lascars, whose noise rendered +her more like a floating Bedlam than any thing else to which I can +liken it. + +[A Spanish oriental city.] The view of the city and country around +Manila partakes both of a Spanish and an Oriental character. The +sombre and heavy-looking churches, with their awkward towers; the long +lines of batteries mounted with heavy cannon; the massive houses, +with ranges of balconies; and the light and airy cottage, elevated +on posts, situated in the luxuriant groves of tropical trees--all +excite a desire to become better acquainted with the country. + +[Surroundings.] Manila is situated on an extensive plain, gradually +swelling into distant hills, beyond which, again, mountains rise in +the back ground to the height of several thousand feet. The latter +are apparently clothed with vegetation to their summits. The city is +in strong contrast to this luxuriant scenery, bearing evident marks +of decay, particularly in the churches, whose steeples and tile roofs +have a dilapidated look. The site of the city does not appear to have +been well chosen, it having apparently been selected entirely for +the convenience of commerce, and the communication that the outlet +of the lake affords for the batteaux that transport the produce from +the shores of the Laguna de Bay to the city. + +[Canals.] There are many arms or branches to this stream, which have +been converted into canals; and almost any part of Manila may now be +reached in a banca. + +In the afternoon, in company with Captain Hudson, I paid my first visit +to Manila. The anchorage considered safest for large ships is nearly +three miles from the shore, but smaller vessels may lie much nearer, +and even enter the canal; a facility of which a number of these take +advantage, to accomplish any repairs they may have occasion to make. + +[Typhoons.] The canal, however, is generally filled with coasting +vessels, batteaux from the lake, and lighters for the discharge of +the vessels lying in the roads. The bay of Manila is safe, excepting +during the change of the monsoons, when it is subject to the typhoons +of the China Seas, within whose range it lies. These blow at times with +much force, and cause great damage. Foreign vessels have, however, +kept this anchorage, and rode out these storms in safety; but native +as well as Spanish vessels, seek at these times the port of Cavite, +about three leagues to the southwest, at the entrance of the bay, +which is perfectly secure. Here the government dockyard is situated, +and this harbor is consequently the resort of the few gunboats and +galleys that are stationed here. + +[Twin piers.] The entrance to the canal or river Pasig is three hundred +feet wide, and is enclosed between two well-constructed piers, which +extend for some distance into the bay. On the end of one of these is +the light-house, and on the other a guard-house. The walls of these +piers are about four feet above ordinary high water, and include the +natural channel of the river, whose current sets out with some force, +particularly when the ebb is making in the bay. + +[Suburbs.] The suburbs, or Binondo quarter, contain more inhabitants +than the city itself, and is the commercial town. They have all the +stir and life incident to a large population actively engaged in trade, +and in this respect the contrast with the city proper is great. + +[Walled city.] The city of Manila is built in the form of a large +segment of a circle, having the chord of the segment on the river: +the whole is strongly fortified, with walls and ditches. The houses +are substantially built after the fashion of the mother country. Within +the walls are the governor's palace, custom-house, treasury, admiralty, +several churches, convents, and charitable institutions, a university, +and the barracks for the troops; it also contains some public squares, +on one of which is a bronze statue of Charles IV. + +The city is properly deemed the court residence of these islands; and +all those attached to the government, or who wish to be considered as +of the higher circle, reside here; but foreigners are not permitted +to do so. The houses in the city are generally of stone, plastered, +and white or yellow washed on the outside. They are only two stories +high, and in consequence cover a large space, being built around a +patio or courtyard. + +[Dwellings.] The ground-floors are occupied as storehouses, +stables, and for porters' lodges. The second story is devoted to +the dining-halls and sleeping apartments, kitchens, bath-rooms, +etc. The bed-rooms have the windows down to the floor, opening on wide +balconies, with blinds or shutters. These blinds are constructed with +sliding frames, having small squares of two inches filled in with +a thin semi-transparent shell, a species of Placuna; the fronts of +some of the houses have a large number of these small lights, where +the females of the family may enjoy themselves unperceived. + +[Business.] After entering the canal, we very soon found ourselves +among a motley and strange population. On landing, the attention is +drawn to the vast number of small stalls and shops with which the +streets are lined on each side, and to the crowds of people passing +to and fro, all intent upon their several occupations. The artisans in +Manila are almost wholly Chinese; and all trades are local, so that in +each quarter of the Binondo suburb the privilege of exclusive occupancy +is claimed by some particular kinds of shops. In passing up the +Escolta (which is the longest and main street in this district), the +cabinet-makers, seen busily at work in their shops, are first met with; +next to these come the tinkers and blacksmiths; then the shoe-makers, +clothiers, fishmongers, haberdashers, etc. These are flanked by outdoor +occupations; and in each quarter are numerous cooks, frying cakes, +stewing, etc., in movable kitchens; while here and there are to be +seen betel-nut sellers, either moving about to obtain customers, +or taking a stand in some great thoroughfare. The moving throng, +composed of carriers, waiters, messengers, etc., pass quietly and +without any noise: they are generally seen with the Chinese umbrella, +painted in many colors, screening themselves from the sun. The whole +population wear slippers, and move along with a slipshod gait. + +The Chinese are apparently far more numerous than the Malays, and the +two races differ as much in character as in appearance: one is all +activity, while the other is disposed to avoid all exertion. They +preserve their distinctive character throughout, mixing but very +little with each other, and are removed as far as possible in their +civilities; the former, from their industry and perseverance, have +almost monopolized all the lucrative employments among the lower +orders, excepting the selling of fish and betel-nut, and articles +manufactured in the provinces. + +On shore, we were kindly received by Mr. Moore, who at once made us +feel at home. The change of feeling that takes place in a transfer from +shipboard in a hot climate, after a long cruise, to spacious and airy +apartments, surrounded by every luxury that kind attentions can give, +can be scarcely imagined by those who have not experienced it. + +As we needed some repairs and supplies, to attend to these was +my first occupation. Among the former, we required a heavy piece +of blacksmith-work, to prepare which, we were obliged to send our +armourers on shore. The only thing they could procure was a place for +a forge; but coal, and every thing else, we had to supply from the +ship. I mention these things to show that those in want of repairs +must not calculate upon their being done at Manila with dispatch, +if they can be accomplished at all. + +[City of Manila.] The city government of Manila was established +June 24, 1571, and the title under which it is designated is, "The +celebrated and forever loyal city of Manila." In 1595, the charter +was confirmed by royal authority; and all the prerogatives possessed +by other cities in the kingdom were conferred upon it in 1638. The +members of the city council, by authority of the king, were constituted +a council of advisement with the governor and captain-general. The +city magistrates were also placed in rank next the judges; and in +1686 the jurisdiction of the city was extended over a radius of five +leagues. In 1818, the members of the council were increased and ordered +to assume the title of "Excellency." Manila has been one of the most +constantly loyal cities of the Spanish kingdom, and is, in consequence, +considered to merit these additional royal favors to its inhabitants. + +[Commerce.] In 1834, the Royal Tribunal of Commerce was instituted, +to supersede the old consulate, which had been established since 1772, +The Royal Tribunal of Commerce acts under the new commercial code, and +possesses the same privileges of arbitration as the old consulate. It +consists of a prior, two consuls, and four deputies, elected by the +profession. The three first exercise consular jurisdiction, the other +four superintend the encouragement of commerce. The "Junta de Comercio" +(chamber of commerce) was formed in 1835. This junta consits of the +Tribunal of Commerce, with four merchants, who are selected by the +government, two of whom are removed annually. The prior of the Tribunal +presides at the Junta, whose meetings are required to be held twice a +month, or oftener if necessary, and upon days in which the Tribunal +is not in session. The two courts being under the same influences, +and having the same officers, little benefit is to be derived from +their double action, and great complaints are made of the manner in +which business is conducted in them. + +[Magellan.] Of all her foreign possessions, the Philippines have +cost Spain the least blood and labor. The honor of their discovery +belongs to Magellan whose name is associated with the straits at +the southern extremity of the American continent, but which has +no memorial in these islands. Now that the glory which he gained +by being the first to penetrate from the Atlantic to the Pacific, +has been in some measure obliterated by the disuse of those straits +by navigators, it would seem due to his memory that some spot among +these islands should be set apart to commemorate the name of, him +who made them known to Europe. This would be but common justice to +the discoverer of a region which has been a source of so much honor +and profit to the Spanish nation, who opened the vast expanse of the +Pacific to the fleets of Europe, and who died fighting to secure the +benefits of his enterprise to his king and country. + +Magellan was killed at the island of Mactan, on April 26, 1521; +and Duarte, the second in command, who succeeded him, imprudently +accepting an invitation from the chief of Cebu to a feast, was, with +twenty companions, massacred. Of all the Spaniards present, only one +escaped. After these and various other misfortunes, only one vessel +of the squadron, the Victoria, returned to Spain. Don Juan Sebastian +del Cano, her commander, was complimented by his sovereign by a grant +for his arms of a globe, with the proud inscription, commemorative +of his being the first circumnavigator, "Primus Me Circumcedit." + +[Other expeditions.] Two years afterwards, a second expedition was +fitted out, under the command of Loaisa, who died after they had +passed through the Straits of Magellan, when they had been a year +on their voyage. The command then fell upon Sebastian, who died in +four days after his predecessor. Salazar succeeded to the command, +and reached the Ladrone Islands, but shortly after leaving there +he died also. They came in sight of Mindanao, but contrary winds +obliged them to go to the Moluccas. When arrived at the Portuguese +settlements, contentions and jealousies arose, and finally all the +expedition was dispersed, and the fate of all but one of the vessels +has become doubtful. None but the small tender returned, which, +after encountering great difficulties, reached New Spain. + +The third expedition was fitted out by Cortes, then viceroy of Mexico, +and the command of it given to Saavedra. This sailed from the port +of Silguattanjo, on the 31st of October, 1528, and stopped at the +Ladrone Islands, of which it took possession for the crown of Spain. It +afterwards went to Mindanao, and then pursued its voyage to Timor, +where part of the expedition of Loaisa was found remaining. From +Timor they made two attempts to return to New Spain, both of which +failed. The climate soon brought on disease, which carried off a great +number, and among them Saavedra. Thus the whole expedition was broken +up, and the survivors found their way to the Portuguese settlements. + +The fourth expedition was sent from New Spain, when under the +government of Don Antonio de Mendoza, for the purpose of establishing +a trade with the new islands, and it received orders not to visit +the Moluccas. This expedition sailed in 1542, under the command +of Villalobos. It reached the Philippine Islands without accident, +and Villalobos gave them that name after Philip II, then prince of +Asturias. Notwithstanding his positive instructions to the contrary, +he was obliged to visit the Moluccas, and met the same treatment from +the Portuguese that had been given to all whom they believed had any +intention to interfere in their spice trade. The squadron touched at +Amboina, where Villalobos died, an event which caused the breaking +up of the expedition; and the few Spaniards that remained embarked +in the Portuguese vessels to return home. + +The fifth and last expedition was ordered by Philip II to be sent +from Mexico, when under the government of Don Luis de Velasco, +for the final conquest and settlement of the Philippines. With +this expedition was sent Andres Urdaneta, a friar, whose reputation +stood very high as a cosmographer: he had belonged to the ill-fated +expedition of Loaisa. This was the largest that had yet been fitted +out for this purpose, numbering five vessels and about four hundred +men. The command of it was intrusted to [Legaspi.] Legaspi, under +whom it sailed from the port of Natividad, on November 21, 1564, and +upon whom was conferred the title of governor and adelantado of the +conquered lands, with the fullest powers. On the 13th of February, +1565, he arrived at the island of Tandaya, one of the Philippines: +from thence he went to Leyte; there he obtained the son of a powerful +chief as a guide, through whom he established peace with several of +the native rulers, who thereafter aided the expedition with all the +means in their power. At Bohol they built the first church. There he +met and made peace with a chief of Luzon, with whom he went to that +island. (Facts here are confused.--C.) + +He now (April, 1565) took possession of all the island in the name of +the crown of Spain, and became their first governor. In this conquest, +motives different from those which governed them on the American +continent, seemed to have influenced the Spaniards. Instead of carrying +on a cruel war against the natives, they here pursued the policy of +encouraging and fostering their industry. Whether they felt that this +policy was necessary for the success of their undertaking, or were +influenced by the religious fathers who were with them, is uncertain; +but their measures seem to have been dictated by a desire to promote +peace and secure the welfare of the inhabitants. There may be another +cause for this course of action, namely, the absence of the precious +metals, which held out no inducement to those thirsting for inordinate +gain. This may have had its weight in exempting the expedition in +its outset from the presence of those avaricious spirits which had +accompanied other Spanish expeditions, and been the means of marking +their progress with excessive tyranny, bloodshed, and violence. It is +evident to one who visits the Philippines that some other power besides +the sword has been at work in them; the natives are amalgamated with +the Spaniards, and all seem disposed to cultivate the land and foster +civilization. None of the feeling that grows out of conquest is to be +observed in these islands; the two races are identified now in habits, +manners, and religion, and their interests are so closely allied that +they feel their mutual dependence upon each other. + +The establishment of the new constitution in Spain in the year 1825 +has had a wonderful effect upon these colonies, whose resources have +within the last ten years been developed, and improvements pushed +forward with a rapid step. Greater knowledge and more liberal views +in the rulers are alone wanting to cause a still more rapid advance +in the career of prosperity. + +As our visit was to Luzon, we naturally obtained more personal +information respecting it than the other islands. We learned that the +northern peninsula [268] was composed of granite and recent volcanic +rocks, together with secondary and tertiary deposits, while the +southern peninsula is almost wholly volcanic. + +The northern contains many valuable mines of gold, lead, copper, +and iron, besides coal. A number of specimens of these, and the rocks +which contain them, were presented to the Expedition by Señores Araria +and Roxas of Manila. + +So far as our information and observations went, the whole of the +Philippine Islands are of similar geological formation. In some of +the islands the volcanic rock prevails, while in others coal and the +metalliferous deposits predominate. On some of them the coal-beds +form part of the cliffs along the shore; on others, copper is found +in a chlorite and talcose slate. The latter is more particularly +the case with Luzon, and the same formation extends to Mindoro. Much +iron occurs on the mountains. Thus among the (Upland) natives, who +are yet unsubdued by the Spaniards, and who inhabit these mountains, +it is found by them of so pure a quality that it is manufactured +into swords and cleavers. These are, occasionally, obtained by the +Spaniards in their excursions into the interior against these bands. + +[Tufa.] The country around Manila is composed of tufa of a light gray +color, which being soft and easily worked, is employed as the common +building material in the city. It contains, sometimes, scoria and +pumice, in pieces of various sizes, besides, occasionally, impressions +of plants, with petrified woods. These are confined to recent species, +and include palms, etc. + +This tufa forms one of the remarkable features of the volcanoes of the +Philippine Islands, showing a strong contrast between them and those of +the Pacific isles, which have ejected little else than lava and scoria. + +Few portions of the globe seem to be so much the seat of internal +fires, or to exhibit the effects of volcanic action so strongly as +the Philippines. During our visit, it was not known that any of the +volcanoes were in action; but many of them were smoking, particularly +that in the district of Albay, called Isaroc. Its latest eruption +was in the year 1839; but this did little damage compared with +that of 1814, which covered several villages, and the country for a +great distance around, with ashes. This mountain is situated to the +south-east of Manila one hundred and fifty miles, and is said to be +a perfect cone, with a crater at its apex. + +[Resources.] It does not appear that the islands are much affected +by earth-quakes, although some have occasionally occurred that have +done damage to the churches at Manila. + +The coal which we have spoken of is deemed of value; it has a strong +resemblance to the bituminous coal of our own country, possesses a +bright lustre, and appears very free from all woody texture when +fractured. It is found associated with sandstone, which contains +many fossils. Lead and copper are reported as being very abundant; +gypsum and limestone occur in some districts. From this, it will +be seen that these islands have everything in the mineral way to +constitute them desirable possessions. + +With such mineral resources, and a soil capable of producing the +most varied vegetation of the tropics, a liberal policy is all that +the country lacks. The products of the Philippine Islands consist +of sugar, coffee, hemp, indigo, rice, tortoise-shell, hides, ebony, +saffron-wood, sulphur, cotton, cordage, silk, pepper, cocoa, wax, +and many other articles. In their agricultural operations the +people are industrious, although much labor is lost by the use of +defective implements. The plough, of very simple construction, has +been adopted from the Chinese; it has no coulter, the share is flat, +and being turned partly to one side, answers, in a certain degree, +the purpose of a mould-board. This rude implement is sufficient for +the rich soils, where the tillage depends chiefly upon the harrow, +in constructing which a thorny species of bamboo is used. The harrow +is formed of five or six pieces of this material, on which the thorns +are left, firmly fastened together. It answers its purpose well, and +is seldom out of order. A wrought-iron harrow, that was introduced +by the Jesuits, is used for clearing the ground more effectually, +and more particularly for the purpose of extirpating a troublesome +grass, that is known by the name of cogon (a species of Andropogon), of +which it is very difficult to rid the fields. The bolo or long-knife, +a basket, and hoe, complete the list of implements, and answer all +the purposes of our spades, etc. + +[Draft animals.] The buffalo was used until within a few years +exclusively in their agricultural operations, and they have lately +taken to the use of the ox; but horses are never used. The buffalo, +from the slowness of his motions, and his exceeding restlessness +under the heat of the climate, is ill adapted to agricultural labor; +but the natives are very partial to them, notwithstanding they +occasion them much labor and trouble in bathing them during the great +heat. This is absolutely necessary, or the animal becomes so fretful +as to be unfit for use. If it were not for this, the buffalo would, +notwithstanding his slow pace, be most effective in agricultural +operations; he requires little food, and that of the coarsest kind; +his strength surpasses that of the stoutest ox, and he is admirably +adapted for the rice or paddy fields. They are very docile when used +by the natives, and even children can manage them; but it is said they +have a great antipathy to the whites, and all strangers. The usual +mode of guiding them is by a small cord attached to the cartilage of +the nose. The yoke rests on the neck before the shoulders, and is of +simple construction. To this is attached whatever it may be necessary +to draw, either by traces, shafts, or other fastenings. Frequently this +animal may be seen with large bundles of bamboo lashed to them on each +side. Buffaloes are to be met with on the lake with no more than their +noses and eyes out of the water, and are not visible until they are +approached within a few feet, when they cause alarm to the passengers +by raising their large forms close to the boat. It is said that they +resort to the lake to feed on a favorite grass that grows on its bottom +in shallow water, and which they dive for. Their flesh is not eaten, +except that of the young ones, for it is tough and tasteless. The milk +is nutritious, and of a character between that of the goat and cow. + +The general appearance of the buffalo is that of a hybrid of the +bull and rhinoceros. Its horns do not rise upwards, are very close +at the root, bent backwards, and of a triangular form, with a flat +side above. One of the peculiarities of the buffalo is its voice, +which is quite low, and in the minor key, resembling that of a young +colt. It is as fond of mire as swine, and shows the consequence of +recent wallowing, in being crusted over with mud. The skin is visible, +being but thinly covered with hair; its color is usually that of a +mouse; in some individuals darker. + +[Rice.] Rice is, perhaps, of their agricultural products, the article +upon which the inhabitants of the Philippine Islands most depend for +food and profit; of this they have several different varieties; which +the natives distinguish by their size and the shape of the grain: +the birnambang, lamuyo, malagequit, bontot-cabayo, dumali, quinanda, +bolohan, and tangi. The three first are aquatic; the five latter +upland varieties. They each have their peculiar uses. The dumali +is the early variety; it ripens in three months from planting, from +which circumstance it derives its name: it is raised exclusively on +the uplands. Although much esteemed, it is not extensively cultivated, +as the birds and insects destroy a large part of the crop. + +The malagequit is very much prized, and used for making sweet and +fancy dishes; it becomes exceedingly glutinous, for which reason it +is used in making whitewash, which it is said to cause to become of a +brilliant white, and to withstand the weather. This variety is not, +however, believed to be wholesome. There is also a variety of this +last species which is used as food for horses, and supposed to be a +remedy and preventive against worms. + +The rice grounds or fields are laid out in squares, and surrounded by +embankments, to retain the water of the rains or streams. After the +rains have fallen in sufficient quantities to saturate the ground, a +seed-bed is generally planted in one corner of the field, in which the +rice is sown broadcast, about the month of June. The heavy rains take +place in August, when the fields are ploughed, and are soon filled with +water. The young plants are about this time taken from the seed-bed, +their tops and roots trimmed, and then planted in the field by making +holes in the ground with the fingers and placing four or five sprouts +in each of them; in this tedious labor the poor women are employed, +whilst the males are lounging in their houses or in the shade of +the trees. + +The harvest for the aquatic rice begins in December. It is reaped +with small sickles, peculiar to the country, called yatap; to the +back of these a small stick is fastened, by which they are held, +and the stalk is forced upon it and cut. The spikes of rice are +cut with this implement, one by one. In this operation, men, women, +and children all take part. + +The upland rice requires much more care and labor in its +cultivation. The land must be ploughed three or four times, and all +the turf and lumps well broken up by the harrow. + +During its growth it requires to be weeded two or three times, to +keep the weeds from choking the crop. The seed is sown broadcast in +May. This kind of rice is harvested in November, and to collect the +crop is still more tedious than in the other case, for it is always +gathered earlier, and never reaped, in consequence of the grain not +adhering to the ear. If it were gathered in any other way, the loss +by transportation on the backs of buffaloes and horses, without any +covering to the sheaf, would be so great as to dissipate a great +portion of the crop. + +It appears almost incredible that any people can remain in +ignorance of a way of preventing so extravagant and wasteful a mode +of harvesting. The government has been requested to prohibit it on +account of the great expense it gives rise to; but whether any steps +have ever been taken in the matter, I did not learn. It is said that +not unfrequently a third part of the crop is lost, in consequence of +the scarcity of laborers; while those who are disengaged will refuse +to work, unless they receive one-third, and even one-half of the crop, +to be delivered free of expense at their houses. This the planters +are often obliged to give, or lose the whole crop. Nay, unless the +harvest is a good one, reapers are very unwilling to engage to take it +even on these terms, and the entire crop is lost. The laborers, during +the time of harvest, are supported by the planter, who is during that +time exposed to great vexation, if not losses. The reapers are for the +most part composed of the idle and vicious part of the population, who +go abroad over the country to engage themselves in this employment, +which affords a livelihood to the poorer classes; for the different +periods at which the varieties of rice are planted and harvested, +gives them work during a large portion of the year. + +After the rice is harvested, there are different modes of treating +it. Some of the proprietors take it home, where it is thrown into +heaps, and left until it is desirable to separate it from the straw, +when it is trodden out by men and women with their bare feet. For +this operation, they usually receive another fifth of the rice. + +Others stack it in a wet and green state, which subjects it to heat, +from which cause the grain contracts a dark color, and an unpleasant +taste and smell. The natives, however, impute these defects to the +wetness of the season. + +The crop of both the low and upland rice, is usually from thirty +to fifty for one: this is on old land; but on that which is newly +cleared or which has never been cultivated, the yield is far beyond +this. In some soils of the latter description, it is said that for a +chupa (seven cubic inches) planted, the yield has been a caban. The +former is the two-hundred-and-eighth part of the latter. This is not +the only advantage gained in planting rich lands, but the saving of +labor is equally great; for all that is required is to make a hole +with the fingers, and place three or four grains in it. The upland +rice requires but little water, and is never irrigated. + +The cultivator in the Philippine Islands is always enabled to secure +plenty of manure; for vegetation is so luxuriant that by pulling the +weeds and laying them with earth, a good stock is quickly obtained +with which to cover his fields. Thus, although the growth is so rank +as to cause him labor, yet in this hot climate its decay is equally +rapid, which tends to make his labors more successful. + +The rice-stacks form a picturesque object on the field; they are +generally placed around or near a growth of bamboo, whose tall, +graceful, and feathery outline is of itself a beautiful object, +but connected as it is often seen with the returns of the harvest, +it furnishes an additional source of gratification. + +The different kinds of rice, and especially the upland, would no doubt +be an acquisition to our country. At the time we were at Manila, it +was not thought feasible to pack it, for it had just been reaped, +and was so green that it would not have kept. [269] Although rice +is a very prolific crop, yet it is subject to many casualties, from +the locusts and other insects that devour it; the drought at other +times affects it, particularly the aquatic varieties. There is a use +to which the rice is applied here, which was new to us, namely, as a +substitute for razors; by using two grains of it between the fingers, +they nip the beard, or extract it from the chin and face. + +[Manila hemp.] Among the important productions of these islands, I have +mentioned hemp, although the article called Manila hemp must not be +understood to be derived from the plant which produces the common hemp +(Cannabis), being obtained from a species of plantain (Musa textilis), +called in the Philippines "abacá." This is a native of these islands, +and was formerly believed to be found only on Mindanao; but this is +not the case, for it is cultivated on the south part of Luzon, and +all the islands south of it. It grows on high ground, in rich soil, +and is propagated by seeds. It resembles the other plants of the tribe +of plantains, but its fruit is much smaller, although edible. The +fibre is derived from the stem, and the plant attains the height of +fifteen or twenty feet. The usual mode of preparing the hemp is to cut +off the stem near the ground, before the time or just when the fruit +is ripe. The stem is then eight or ten feet long below the leaves, +where it is again cut. The outer coating of the herbaceous stem +is then stripped off, until the fibers or cellular parts are seen, +when it undergoes the process of rotting, and after being well dried +in houses and sheds, is prepared for market by assorting it, a task +which is performed by the women and children. That which is intended +for cloth is soaked for an hour or two in weak lime-water prepared +from sea-shells, again dried, and put up in bundles. From all the +districts in which it grows, it is sent to Manila, which is the only +port whence it can legally be exported. It arrives in large bundles, +and is packed there, by means of a screw-press, in compact bales, +for shipping, secured by rattan, each weighing two piculs. + +The best Manila hemp ought to be white, dry, and of a long and fine +fiber. This is known at Manila by the name of lupis; the second +quality they call bandala. + +The exportation has much increased within the last few years, in +consequence of the demand for it in the United States; and the whole +crop is now monopolized by the two American houses of Sturges & Co., +and T. N. Peale & Co., of Manila, who buy all of good quality that +comes to market. This is divided between the two houses, and the +price they pay is from four to five dollars the picul. The entire +quantity raised in 1840 was eighty-three thousand seven hundred and +ninety piculs; in 1841, eighty-seven thousand. + +The quantity exported to the United States in 1840, was sixty-eight +thousand two hundred and eighty piculs, and in 1841, only sixty-two +thousand seven hundred piculs; its value in Manila is about three +hundred thousand dollars. Twenty thousand piculs go to Europe. There +are no duties on its exportation. + +That which is brought to the United States is principally manufactured +in or near Boston, and is the cordage known as "white rope." The +cordage manufactured at Manila is, however, very superior to the +rope made with us, although the hemp is of the inferior kind. A large +quantity is also manufactured into mats. + +In the opinion of our botanist, it is not probable that the plant could +be introduced with success into our country, for in the Philippines +it is not found north of latitude 14° N. + +[Coffee.] The coffee-plant is well adapted to these islands. A +few plants were introduced into the gardens of Manila, about fifty +years ago, since which time it has been spread all over the island, +as is supposed by the civet-cats, which, after swallowing the seeds, +carry them to a distance before they are voided. + +The coffee of commerce is obtained here from the wild plant, and +is of an excellent quality. Upwards of three thousand five hundred +piculs are now exported, of which one-sixth goes to the United States. + +[Sugar.] The sugar-cane thrives well here. It is planted after the +French fashion, by sticking the piece diagonally into the ground. Some, +finding the cane has suffered in times of drought, have adopted other +modes. It comes to perfection in a year, and they seldom have two +crops from the same piece of land, unless the season is very favorable. + +There are many kinds of cane cultivated, but that grown in the valley +of Pampanga is thought to be the best. It is a small red variety, from +four to five feet high, and not thicker than the thumb. The manufacture +of the sugar is rudely conducted; and the whole business, I was told, +was in the hands of a few capitalists, who, by making advances, secure +the whole crop from those who are employed to bring it to market. It +is generally brought in moulds, of the usual conical shape, called +pilones, which are delivered to the purchaser from November to June, +and contain each about one hundred and fifty pounds. On their receipt, +they are placed in large storehouses, where the familiar operation +of claying is performed. The estimate for the quantity of sugar +from these pilones after this process is about one hundred pounds; +it depends upon the care taken in the process. + +[Cotton.] Of cotton they raise a considerable quantity, which is of a +fine quality, and principally of the yellow nankeen. In the province +of Ilocos it is cultivated most extensively. The mode of cleaning it +of its seed is very rude, by means of a hand-mill, and the expense of +cleaning a picul (one hundred and forty pounds) is from five to seven +dollars. There have, as far as I have understood, been no endeavors +to introduce any cotton-gins from our country. + +[Wages.] It will be merely necessary to give the prices at which +laborers are paid, to show how low the compensation is, in comparison +with those in our own country. In the vicinity of Manila, twelve and +a half cents per day is the usual wages; this in the provinces falls +to six and nine cents. A man with two buffaloes is paid about thirty +cents. The amount of labor performed by the latter in a day would +be the ploughing of a soane, about two-tenths of an acre. The most +profitable way of employing laborers is by the task, when, it is said, +the natives work well, and are industrious. + +The manner in which the sugar and other produce is brought to market +at Manila is peculiar, and deserves to be mentioned. In some of the +villages, the chief men unite to build a vessel, generally a pirogue, +in which they embark their produce, under the conduct of a few persons, +who go to navigate it, and dispose of the cargo. In due time they +make their voyage, and when the accounts are settled, the returns +are distributed to each according to his share. Festivities are then +held, the saints thanked for their kindness, and blessings invoked +for another year. After this is over, the vessel is taken carefully +to pieces, and distributed, among the owners, to be preserved for +the next season. + +The profits in the crops, according to estimates, vary from sixty +to one hundred per cent.; but it was thought, as a general average, +that this was, notwithstanding the great productiveness of the soil, +far beyond the usual profits accruing from agricultural operations. In +some provinces this estimate would hold good, and probably be exceeded. + +[Indigo.] Indigo would probably be a lucrative crop, for that raised +here is said to be of quality equal to the best, and the crop is +not subject to so many uncertainties as in India: the capital and +attention required in vats, etc., prevent it from being raised in +any quantities. Among the productions, the bamboo and rattan ought to +claim a particular notice from their great utility; they enter into +almost every thing. Of the former their houses are built, including +frames, floors, sides, and roof; fences are made of the same material, +as well as every article of general household use, including baskets +for oil and water. The rattan is a general substitute for ropes of +all descriptions, and the two combined are used in constructing rafts +for crossing ferries. + +I have thus given a general outline of the capabilities of this +country for agricultural operations, in some of the most important +articles of commerce; by which it will be seen that the Philippine +Islands are one of the most favored parts of the globe. + +[Locusts.] The crops frequently suffer from the ravages of the locusts, +which sweep all before them. Fortunately for the poorer classes, their +attacks take place after the rice has been harvested; but the cane +is sometimes entirely cut off. The authorities of Manila, in the vain +hope of stopping their devastations, employ persons to gather them and +throw them into the sea. I understood on one occasion they had spent +eighty thousand dollars in this way, but all to little purpose. It is +said that the crops rarely suffer from droughts, but on the contrary +the rains are thought to fall too often, and to flood the rice fields; +these, however, yield a novel crop, and are very advantageous to the +poor, viz.: a great quantity of fish, which are called dalag, and are +a species of Blunnius; they are so plentiful, that they are caught +with baskets: these fish weigh from a half to two pounds, and some are +said to be eighteen inches long; but this is not all; they are said, +after a deep inundation, to be found even in the vaults of churches. + +The Philippines are divided into thirty-one provinces, sixteen of +which are on the island of Luzon, and the remainder comprise the +other islands of the group and the Ladrones. + +[Population.] The population of the whole group is above three +millions, including all tribes of natives, mestizos, and whites. The +latter-named class are but few in number, not exceeding three +thousand. The mestizos were supposed to be about fifteen or twenty +thousand; they are distinguished as Spanish and Indian mestizos. The +Chinese have of late years increased to a large number, and it is +said that there are forty thousand of them in and around Manila +alone. One-half of the whole population belongs to Luzon. The island +next to it in the number of inhabitants is Panay, which contains +about three hundred and thirty thousand. Then come Cebu, Mindanao, +Leyte, Samar, and Negros, varying from the above numbers down to +fifty thousand. The population is increasing, and it is thought that +it doubles itself in seventy years. This rate of increase appears +probable, from a comparison of the present population with the estimate +made at the beginning of the present century, which shows a growth +in the forty years of about one million four hundred thousand. + +The native population is composed of a number of distinct tribes, +the principal of which in Luzon are Pangasinan, Ilocos, Cagayan, +Tagalog, and Pampangan. + +The Igorots, who dwell in the mountains, are the only natives who +have not been subjected by the Spaniards. The other tribes have +become identified with their rulers in religion, and it is thought +that by this circumstance alone has Spain been able to maintain the +ascendency with so small a number, over such a numerous, intelligent, +and energetic race as they are represented to be. This is, however, +more easily accounted for, from the Spaniards fostering and keeping +alive the jealousy and hatred that existed at the time of the discovery +between the different tribes. + +It seems almost incredible that Spain should have so long persisted +in the policy of allowing no more than one galleon to pass annually +between her colonies, and equally so that the nations of Europe should +have been so long deceived in regard to the riches and wealth that +Spain was monopolizing in the Philippines. The capture of Manila, +in 1762, by the English, first gave a clear idea of the value of this +remote and little-known appendage of the empire. + +The Philippines, considered in their capacity for commerce, are +certainly among the most favored portions of the globe, and there is +but one circumstance that tends in the least degree to lessen their +apparent advantage; this is the prevalence of typhoons in the China +seas, which are occasionally felt with force to the north of latitude +10° N. South of that parallel, they have never been known to prevail, +and seldom so far; but from their unfailing occurrence yearly in some +part of the China seas, they are looked for with more or less dread, +and cause each season a temporary interruption in all the trade that +passes along the coast of these islands. + +The army is now composed entirely of native troops, who number about +six thousand men, and the regiments are never suffered to serve in +the provinces in which they are recruited, but those from the north +are sent to the south, and vice versa. There they are employed to keep +up a continual watch on each other; and, speaking different dialects, +they never become identified. + +They are, indeed, never allowed to remain long enough in one region, +to imbibe any feelings in unison with those of its inhabitants. The +hostility is so great among the regiments, that mutinies have occurred, +and contests arisen which have produced even bloodshed, which it was +entirely out of the power of the officers to prevent. In cases of +this kind, summary punishment is resorted to. + +[Conditions not peaceful.] Although the Spaniards, as far as is known +abroad, live in peace and quiet, this is far from being the case; for +rebellion and revolts among the troops and tribes are not unfrequent in +the provinces. During the time of our visit one of these took place, +but it was impossible to learn anything concerning it that could +be relied upon, for all conversation respecting such occurrences +is interdicted by the government. The difficulty to which I refer +was said to have originated from the preaching of a fanatic priest, +who inflamed them to such a degree that they overthrew the troops +and became temporarily masters of the country. Prompt measures were +immediately taken, and orders issued to give the rebels no quarter; +the regiments most hostile to those engaged in the revolt were ordered +to the spot; they spared no one; the priest and his companions were +taken, put to death, and according to report, in a manner so cruel as +to be a disgrace to the records of the nineteenth century. Although I +should hope the accounts I heard of these transactions were incorrect, +yet the detestation these acts were held in, would give some color +to the statements. + +The few gazettes that are published at Manila are entirely under the +control of the government; and a resident of that city must make +up his mind to remain in ignorance of the things that are passing +around him, or believe just what the authorities will allow to be +told, whether truth or falsehood. The government of the Philippines +is emphatically an iron rule: how long it can continue so, is doubtful. + +[The governor-general.] One of my first duties was to make an +official call upon His Excellency Don Marcelino Oroa, who is the +sixty-first governor of the Philippine Islands. According to the +established etiquette, Mr. Moore, the vice-consul, announced our +desire to do so, and requested to be informed of the time when we +would be received. This was accordingly named, and at the appointed +hour we proceeded to the palace in the city proper. On our arrival, +we were announced and led up a flight of steps, ample and spacious, +but by no means of such splendor as would indicate the residence of +vice-royalty. The suite of rooms into which we were ushered were so +dark that it was difficult to see. I made out, however, that they were +panelled, and by no means richly furnished. His excellency entered +from a side-door, and led us through two or three apartments into his +private audience-room, an apartment not quite so dark as those we +had come from: our being conducted to this, I was told afterwards, +was to be considered an especial mark of respect to my country. His +reception of us was friendly. The governor has much more the appearance +of an Irishman than of a Spaniard, being tall, portly, of a florid +complexion. He is apparently more than sixty years of age. He was +dressed in a full suit of black, with a star on his breast. + +Mr. Moore acted as interpreter, and the governor readily acceded to my +request to be allowed to send a party into the interior for a few days; +a permission which I almost despaired of receiving, for I knew that +he had refused a like application some few months before. The refusal, +however, I think was in part owing to the character of the applicants, +and the doubtful object they had in view. I impute the permission we +received to the influence of our consul, together with Mr. Sturges, +whose agreeable manners, conciliatory tone, and high standing with +the authorities, will, I am satisfied, insure us at all times every +reasonable advantage or facility. + +The term of the governor in office is three years, and the present +incumbent was installed in 1841. This length of time is thought to be +sufficient for any one of them to make a fortune. The office is held +by the appointment of the ministry in Spain, and with it are connected +perquisites that are shared, it is said, by those who confer them. + +After having paid our respects to his excellency, we drove to visit +several other officers of the government, who received us without +ceremony. We generally found them in loose morning-gowns, smoking, and +cigars were invariably offered us; for this habit appears in Manila to +extend to all ranks. Even in the public offices of the custom-house +it was the fashion, and cigars, with a machero for striking a light, +or a joss-stick kept burning, were usually seen in every apartment. + +[Courteous Spanish officials.] To the captain of the port, Don Juan +Salomon, I feel under many obligations for his attentions. I was +desirous of obtaining information relative to the Sulu Seas, and to +learn how far the Spanish surveys had been carried. He gave me little +hopes of obtaining any; but referred me to Captain Halcon, of the +Spanish Navy, who had been employed surveying some part of the coast +of the islands to the north. The latter whom I visited, on my making +the inquiry of him, and stating the course I intended to pursue, +frankly told me that all the existing charts were erroneous. He +only knew enough of the ground to be certain that they were so, +and consequently useless. He advised my taking one of the native +pilots, who were generally well acquainted with the seas that lay +more immediately in my route. The captain of the port was afterwards +kind enough to offer to procure me one. + +The intercourse I had with these gentlemen was a source of much +gratification, and it gives me great pleasure to make this public +expression of it. To both, my sincere acknowledgments are due for +information in relation to the various reefs and shoals that have +been recently discovered, and which will be found placed in their +true position on our charts. + +During our stay at Manila, our time was occupied in seeing sights, +shopping, riding, and amusing ourselves with gazing on the throng +incessantly passing through the Escolta of the Binondo suburb, or +more properly, the commercial town of Manila. + +[Cigar factories.] Among the lions of the place, the great royal cigar +manufactories claim especial notice from their extent and the many +persons employed. There are two of these establishments, one situated +in the Binondo quarter, and the other on the great square or Prado; +in the former, which was visited by us, there are two buildings of +two stories high, besides several storehouses, enclosed by a wall, +with two large gateways, at which sentinels are always posted. The +principal workshop is in the second story, which is divided into six +apartments, in which eight thousand females are employed. Throughout +the whole extent, tables are arranged, about sixteen inches high, +ten feet long, and three feet wide, at each of which fifteen women +are seated, having small piles of tobacco before them. The tables are +set crosswise from the wall, leaving a space in the middle of the room +free. The labor of a female produces about two hundred cigars a day; +and the working hours are from 6 a.m., till 6 p.m., with a recess of +two hours, from eleven till one o'clock. The whole establishment is +kept very neat and clean, and every thing appears to be carried on +in the most systematic and workmanlike manner. Among such numbers, +it has been found necessary to institute a search on their leaving +the establishment to prevent embezzlement, and this is regularly +made twice a day, without distinction of sex. It is a strange sight +to witness the ingress and egress of these hordes of females; and +probably the world cannot elsewhere exhibit so large a number of ugly +women. Their ages vary from fifteen to forty-five. The sum paid them +for wages is very trifling. The whole number of persons employed in the +manufactories is about fifteen thousand; this includes the officers, +clerks, overseers, etc. + +As nearly as I could ascertain, the revenue derived from these +establishments is half a million of dollars. + +The natives of the Philippines are industrious. They manufacture an +amount of goods sufficient to supply their own wants, particularly +from Panay and Ilocos. These for the most part consist of cotton and +silks, and a peculiar article called piña. The latter is manufactured +from a species of Bromelia (pineapple), and comes principally +from the island of Panay. The finest kinds of piña are exceedingly +beautiful, and surpass any other material in its evenness and beauty +of texture. Its color is yellowish, and the embroidery is fully +equal to the material. It is much sought after by all strangers, +and considered as one of the curiosities of this group. Various +reports have been stated of the mode of its manufacture, and among +others that it was woven under water, which I found, upon inquiry, +to be quite erroneous. The web of the piña is so fine, that they +are obliged to prevent all currents of air from passing through the +rooms where it is manufactured, for which purpose there are gauze +screens in the windows. After the article is brought to Manila, it +is then embroidered by girls; this last operation adds greatly to +its value. We visited one of the houses where this was in progress, +and where the most skilful workwomen are employed. + +On mounting the stairs of bamboos, every step we took produced its +creak; but, although the whole seemed but a crazy affair, yet it did +not want for strength, being well and firmly bound together. There +were two apartments, each about thirteen by twenty-five feet, which +could be divided by screens, if required. At the end of it were seen +about forty females, all busily plying their needles, and so closely +seated as apparently to incommode each other. The mistress of the +manufactory, who was quite young, gave us a friendly reception, and +showed us the whole process of drawing the threads and working the +patterns, which, in many cases, were elegant. + +A great variety of dresses, scarfs, caps, collars, cuffs, and +pocket-handkerchiefs, were shown us. These were mostly in the rough +state, and did not strike us with that degree of admiration which was +expected. They, however, had been in hand for six months, and were +soiled by much handling; but when others were shown us in the finished +state, washed and put up, they were such as to claim our admiration. + +I was soon attracted by a very different sight at the other end of the +apartment. This was a dancing-master and his scholar, of six years old, +the daughter of the woman of the house. It was exceedingly amusing +to see the airs and graces of this child. + +For music they had a guitar; and I never witnessed a ballet that +gave me more amusement, or saw a dancer that evinced more grace, +ease, confidence, and decided talent, than did this little girl. She +was prettily formed, and was exceedingly admired and applauded by us +all. Her mother considered her education as finished, and looked on +with all the admiration and fondness of parental affection. + +On inquiry, I found that the idea of teaching her to read and write had +not yet been entertained. Yet every expense is incurred to teach them +to use their feet and arms, and to assume the expression of countenance +that will enable them to play a part in the afterscenes of life. + +This manufactory had work engaged for nine months or a year in +advance. The fabric is extremely expensive, and none but the wealthy +can afford it. It is also much sought after by foreigners. Even orders +for Queen Victoria and many of the English nobility were then in hand; +at least I so heard at Manila. Those who are actually present have, +notwithstanding, the privilege of selecting what they wish to purchase; +for, with the inhabitants here, as elsewhere, ready money has too +much attraction for them to forego the temptation. + +Time in Manila seems to hang heavily on the hands of some of its +inhabitants; their amusements are few, and the climate ill adapted to +exertion. The gentlemen of the higher classes pass their morning in +the transaction of a little public business, lounging about, smoking, +etc. In the afternoon, they sleep, and ride on the Prado; and in the +evening, visit their friends, or attend a tertulia. The ladies are to +be pitied; for they pass three-fourths of their time in déshabillé, +with their maids around them, sleeping, dressing, lolling, and combing +their hair. In this way the whole morning is lounged away; they neither +read, write, nor work. In dress they generally imitate the Europeans, +except that they seldom wear stockings, and go with their arms bare. In +the afternoon they ride on the Prado in state, and in the evening +accompany their husbands. Chocolate is taken early in the morning, +breakfast at eleven, and dinner and supper are included in one meal. + +Mothers provide for the marriage of their daughters; and I was told +that such a thing as a gentleman proposing to any one but the mother, +or a young lady engaging herself, is unknown and unheard of. The +negotiation is all carried forward by the mother, and the daughter is +given to any suitor she may deem a desirable match. The young ladies +are said to be equally disinclined to a choice themselves, and if +proposals were made to them, the suitor would be at once referred to +the mother. Among the lower orders it is no uncommon thing for the +parties to be living without the ceremony of marriage, until they have +a family and no odium whatever is attached to such a connexion. They +are looked upon as man and wife, though they do not live together; and +they rarely fail to solemnize their union when they have accumulated +sufficient property to procure the requisite articles for housekeeping. + +[The Luneta.] Three nights in each week they have music in the plaza, +in front of the governor's palace, by the bands of four different +regiments, who collect there after the evening parade. Most of the +better class resort here, for the pleasure of enjoying it. We went +thither to see the people as well as to hear the music. This is the +great resort of the haut ton, who usually have their carriages in +waiting, and promenade in groups backwards and forwards during the +time the music is playing. This is by far the best opportunity that +one can have for viewing the society of Manila, which seems as easy +and unrestrained as the peculiar gravity and ceremonious mode of +intercourse among the old Spaniards can admit. Before the present +governor took office, it had been the custom to allow the bands to +play on the Prado every fine evening, when all the inhabitants could +enjoy it until a late hour; but he has interdicted this practice, +and of course given much dissatisfaction; he is said to have done +this in a fit of ill temper, and although importuned to restore this +amusement to the common people, he pertinaciously refuses. + +The bands of the regiments are under the direction of Frenchmen and +Spaniards: the musicians are all natives, and play with a correct ear. + +Our afternoons were spent in drives on the Prado, where all the +fashion and rank of Manila are to be met, and where it is exceedingly +agreeable to partake of the fresh and pure air after a heated day in +the city. The extreme end of the Prado lies along the shore of the bay +of Manila, having the roadstead and ships on one side, and the city +proper with its fortifications and moats on the other. This drive +usually lasts for an hour, and all sorts of vehicles are shown off, +from the governor's coach and six, surrounded by his lancers, to the +sorry chaise and limping nag. The carriage most used is a four-wheeled +biloche, with a gig top, quite low, and drawn by two horses, on one +of which is a postilion; these vehicles are exceedingly comfortable +for two persons. The horses are small, but spirited, and are said +to be able to undergo great fatigue, although their appearance +does not promise it. This drive is enlivened by the music of the +different regiments, who are at this time to be seen manoeuvering on +the Prado. The soldiers have a very neat and clean appearance; great +attention is paid to them, and the whole are well appointed. The force +stationed in Manila is six thousand, and the army in the Philippines +amounts to twenty thousand men. The officers are all Spaniards, +generally the relations and friends of those in the administration +of the government. The pay of the soldiers is four dollars a month, +and a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As troops I was told, +they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid out in many avenues, +leading in various directions to the suburbs, and these are planted +with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant shade. It is well kept, +and creditable to the city. + +In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female +beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but +revert to their wearing no stockings beneath. + +On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building +scarce deserves the name: the acting was equally bad. This amusement +meets with little encouragement in Manila and, I was told, was +discountenanced by the Governor. + +[A tertulia.] I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a +tertulia in the city. The company was not a large one, comprising +some thirty or forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen. It resembled +those of the mother country. Dancing was introduced at an early hour, +and continued till a few minutes before eleven o'clock, at which +time the gates of the city are always shut. It was amusing to see +the sudden breaking up of the party, most of the guests residing out +of the city. The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, etc., produced +for a few minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting +off at the earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late. This +regulation, by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does +not appear necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication +between the foreign and Spanish society as the former is obliged, as +before observed, to live outside of the city proper. This want of free +intercourse is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship +by which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed. + +The society at this tertulia was easy, and so far as the enjoyment +of dancing went, pleasant; but there was no conversation. The +refreshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks +in an anteroom. The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for +entertainments, but only one of the rooms was well lighted. From the +novelty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the house, +we passed a pleasant evening. + +The natives and mestizos attracted much of my attention at +Manila. Their dress is peculiar: over a pair of striped trousers +of various colors, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt, +a large straw hat, and around the head or neck a many colored silk +handkerchief. They often wear slippers as well as shoes. The Chinese +dress, as they have done for centuries, in loose white shirts and +trousers. One peculiarity of the common men is their passion for +cock-fighting; and they carry these fowls wherever they go, after a +peculiar fashion under their arm. + +[Cock-figghting.] Cock-fighting is licensed by the government, and +great care is taken in the breeding of game fowls, which are very large +and heavy birds. They are armed with a curved double-edged gaff. The +exhibitions are usually crowded with half-breeds or mestizos, who are +generally more addicted to gambling than either the higher or lower +classes of Spaniards. It would not be an unapt designation to call +the middling class cock-fighters, for their whole lives seem to be +taken up with the breeding and fighting of these birds. On the exit +from a cockpit, I was much amused with the mode of giving the return +check, which was done by a stamp on the naked arm, and precludes +the possibility of its transfer to another person. The dress of the +lower order of females is somewhat civilized, yet it bore so strong +a resemblance to that of the Polynesians as to recall the latter +to our recollection. A long piece of colored cotton is wound round +the body, like the pareu, and tucked in at the side: this covers +the nether limbs; and a jacket fitting close to the body is worn, +without a shirt. In some, this jacket is ornamented with work around +the neck; it has no collar, and in many cases no sleeves, and over +this a richly embroidered cape. The feet are covered with slippers, +with wooden soles, which are kept on by the little toe, only four toes +entering the slipper, and the little one being on the outside. The +effect of both costumes is picturesque. + +[Ducks.] The market is a never failing place of amusement to a +foreigner, for there a crowd of the common people is always to be seen, +and their mode of conducting business may be observed. The canals +here afford great facilities for bringing vegetables and produce to +market in a fresh state. The vegetables are chiefly brought from the +shores of the Laguna de Bay, through the river Pasig. The meat appeared +inferior, and as in all Spanish places the art of butchering is not +understood. The poultry, however, surpasses that of any other place +I have seen, particularly in ducks, the breeding of which is pursued +to a great extent. Establishments for breeding these birds are here +carried on in a systematic manner, and are a great curiosity. They +consist of many small enclosures, each about twenty feet by forty or +fifty, made of bamboo, which are placed on the bank of the river, +and partly covered with water. In one corner of the enclosure is a +small house, where the eggs are hatched by artificial heat, produced +by rice-chaff in a state of of fermentation. It is not uncommon to see +six or eight hundred ducklings all of the same age. There are several +hundreds of these enclosures, and the number of ducks of all ages +may be computed at millions. The manner in which they are schooled +to take exercise, and to go in and out of the water, and to return +to their house, almost exceeds belief. The keepers or tenders are of +the Tagalog tribe, who live near the enclosures, and have them at all +times under their eye. The old birds are not suffered to approach +the young, and all of one age are kept together. They are fed upon +rice and a small species of shell-fish that is found in the river +and is peculiar to it. From the extent of these establishments we +inferred that ducks were the favorite article of food at Manila, and +the consumption of them must be immense. The markets are well supplied +with chickens, pigeons, young partridges, which are brought in alive, +and turkeys. Among strange articles that we saw for sale, were cakes +of coagulated blood. The markets are well stocked with a variety of +fish, taken both in the Laguna and bay of Manila, affording a supply +of both the fresh and salt water species, and many smaller kinds that +are dried and smoked. Vegetables are in great plenty, and consist +of pumpkins, lettuce, onions, radishes, very long squashes, etc.; +of fruits, they have melons, chicos, durians, marbolas, and oranges. + +[Fish.] Fish are caught in weirs, by the hook, or in seines. The former +are constructed of bamboo stakes, in the shallow water of the lake, +at the point where it flows through the Pasig river. In the bay, +and at the mouth of the river, the fish are taken in nets, suspended +by the four corners from hoops attached to a crane, by which they are +lowered into the water. The fishing-boats are little better than rafts, +and are called sarabaos. + +The usual passage-boat is termed banca, and is made of a single +trunk. These are very much used by the inhabitants. They have a +sort of awning to protect the passenger from the rays of the sun; +and being light are easily rowed about, although they are exceedingly +uncomfortable to sit in, from the lowness of the seats, and liable to +overset, if the weight is not placed near the bottom. The outrigger +was very often dispensed with, owing to the impediment it offered to +the navigation of their canals; these canals offer great facilities +for the transportation of burdens; the banks of almost all of them +are faced with granite. Where the streets cross them, there are +substantial stone bridges, which are generally of no more than one +arch, so as not to impede the navigation. The barges used for the +transportation of produce resemble our canal-boats, and have sliding +roofs to protect them from the rain. + +Water, for the supply of vessels, is brought off in large earthen +jars. It is obtained from the river, and if care is not taken, the +water will be impure; it ought to be filled beyond the city. Our +supply was obtained five or six miles up the river, by a lighter, +in which were placed a number of water-casks. It proved excellent. + +The trade of Manila extends to all parts of the world. + +There are many facilities for the transaction of business, as far as +the shipment of articles is concerned; but great difficulties attend +the settling of disputed accounts, collecting debts, etc., in the +way of which the laws passed in 1834 have thrown many obstacles. All +commercial business of this kind goes before, first, the Junta +de Comercio, and then an appeal to the Tribunal de Comercio. This +appeal, however, is merely nominal; for the same judges preside in +each, and they are said to be susceptible of influences that render +an appeal to them by honest men at all times hazardous. The opinion +of those who have had the misfortune to be obliged to recur to these +tribunals is, that it is better to suffer wrong than encounter both +the expense and vexation of a resort to them for justice. In the +first of these courts the decision is long delayed, fees exacted, +and other expenses incurred; and when judgment is at length given, +it excites one party or the other to appeal: other expenses accrue +in consequence, and the advocates and judges grow rich while both the +litigants suffer. I understood that these tribunals were intended to +simplify business, lessen the time of suits, and promote justice; but +these results have not been obtained, and many believe that they have +had the contrary effect, and have opened the road to further abuses. + +[Environs.] The country around Manila, though no more than an extended +plain for some miles, is one of great interest and beauty, and affords +many agreeable rides on the roads to Santa Ana and Mariquina. Most of +the country-seats are situated on the Pasig river; they may indeed +be called palaces, from their extent and appearance. They are built +upon a grand scale, and after the Italian style, with terraces, +supported by strong abutments, decked with vases of plants. The +grounds are ornamented with the luxuriant, lofty, and graceful trees +of the tropics; these are tolerably well kept. Here and there fine +large stone churches, with their towers and steeples, are to be seen, +the whole giving the impression of a wealthy nobility, and a happy +and flourishing peasantry. + +[The cemetery.] In one of our rides we made a visit to the Campo Santo +or cemetery, about four miles from Manila. It is small, but has many +handsome trees about it; among them was an Agati, full of large white +flowers, showing most conspicuously. The whole place is as unlike a +depository of the dead as it well can be. Its form is circular, having +a small chapel, in the form of a rotunda, directly opposite the gate, +or entrance. The walls are about twenty feet high, with three tiers of +niches, in which the bodies are enclosed with quicklime. Here they are +allowed to remain for three years, or until such time as the niches +may be required for further use. Niches may be purchased, however, +and permanently closed up; but in the whole cemetery there were but +five thus secured. This would seem to indicate an indifference on the +part of the living, for their departed relatives or friends; at least +such was my impression at the time. The center of the enclosure is laid +out as a flower-garden and shrubbery, and all the buildings are washed +a deep buff-color, with white cornices; these colors, when contrasted +with the green foliage, give an effect that is not unpleasing. In +the chapel are two tombs, the one for the bishop, and the other for +the governor. The former, I believe, is occupied, and will continue +to be so, until another shall follow him; but the latter is empty, +for, since the erection of the cemetery, none of the governors have +died. In the rear of the chapel is another small cemetery, called Los +Angeles; and, further behind, the Osero. The former is similar to the +one in front, but smaller, and appropriated exclusively to children; +the latter is an open space, where the bones of all those who have +been removed from the niches, after three years, are east out, and +now lie in a confused heap, with portions of flesh and hair adhering +to them. No person is allowed to be received here for interment, +until the fees are first paid to the priest, however respectable the +parties may be; and all those who pay the fees, and are of the true +faith, can be interred. I was told of a corpse of a very respectable +person being refused admittance, for the want of the priest's pass, +to show that the claim had been satisfied, and the coffin stopped +in the road until it was obtained. We ourselves witnessed a similar +refusal. A servant entered with a dead child; borne on a tray, which +he presented to the sacristan to have interred, the latter asked him +for the pass, which not being produced, he was dismissed, nor was he +suffered to leave his burden until this requisite could be procured +from the priest, who lived opposite. The price of interment was three +dollars, but whether this included the purchase of the niche, or its +rent for the three years only, I did not learn. + +The churches of Manila can boast of several fine-toned bells, which +are placed in large belfries or towers. There was one of these towers +near the Messrs. Sturges', where we stayed; and the manner in which +the bell was used, when swung around by the force of two or three men, +attracted our attention; for the ringers occasionally practised feats +of agility by passing over with the bell, and landing on the coping on +the opposite side. The tower being open, we could see the manoeuver +from the windows, and, as strangers, went there to look on. One day, +whilst at dinner, they began to ring, and as many of the officers +had not witnessed the fact, they sought the windows. This excited +the vanity of those in the belfry, who redoubled their exertions, +and performed the feat successfully many times, although in some +instances they narrowly escaped accident, by landing just within +the outside coping. This brought us all to the window, and the next +turn, more force having been given to the bell, the individual who +attempted the feat was thrown headlong beyond the tower, and dashed +to pieces on the pavement beneath. Although shocked at the accident, +I felt still more so when, after a few minutes, the bell was again +heard making its usual sound, as if nothing had occurred to interrupt +the course of its hourly peals. + +[Monasteries.] In company with Dr. Tolben, I visited one of the +convents where he attended on some of the monks who were sick; he +seemed well acquainted with them all. I was much struck with the extent +of the building, which was four stories high, with spacious corridors +and galleries, the walls of which were furnished with pictures +representing the martyrdom of the Dominican friars in Japan. These were +about seventy in number, in the Chinese style of art, and evidently +painted by some one of that nation, calling himself an artist. From +appearances, however, I should think they were composed by the priests, +who have not a little taxed their invention to find out the different +modes in which a man can be put to death. Many evidently, if not all, +had been invented for the pictures. So perplexed had they apparently +been, that in one of the last it was observed that the executioner +held his victim at arms' length by the heels, and was about to let him +drop headforemost into a well. From the galleries we passed into the +library, and thence into many of the rooms, and finally we mounted to +the top of the monastery, which affords a beautiful view of the bay, +city, and suburbs. There I was presented to three of the friars, +who were pleasant and jolly-looking men. Upon the roof was a kind +of observatory, or look-out, simply furnished with billiard-tables +and shuffleboards, while the implements for various other games lay +about on small tables, with telescopes on stands, and comfortable +arm-chairs. It was a place where the friars put aside their religious +and austere character or appearance, and sought amusement. It was +a delightful spot, so far as coolness and the freshness of the sea +air were concerned, and its aspect gave me an insight behind the +curtain of these establishments that very soon disclosed many things +I was ignorant of before. All the friars were of a rotund form, +and many of them bore the marks of good living in their full, red, +and bloated faces. It seems to be generally understood at Manila, +that they live upon the fat of the land. We visited several of the +rooms, and were warmly greeted by the padres, one of whom presented +me with a meteorological table for the previous year. + +The revenues of all these religious establishments are considerable; +the one I visited belonged to the Dominicans, and was very rich. Their +revenues are principally derived from lands owned by them, and the +tithes from the different districts which they have under their charge, +to which are added many alms and gifts. On inquiry, I found their +general character was by no means thought well of, and they had of +late years lost much of the influence that they possessed before the +revolution in the mother country. + +Among the inhabitants we saw here, was a native boy of the Igorots, +or mountain tribe. He is said to be a true Negrito. (Another confusion +of facts.--C.) + +[Mountaineers.] The Spaniards, as has been stated, have never been +able to subdue this tribe, who are said to be still as wild as on +their first landing; they are confined almost altogether to the plains +within or near the mountains, and from time to time make inroads in +great force on the outer settlements, carrying off as much plunder +as possible. The burden of this often causes them to be overtaken +by the troops. When overtaken, they fight desperately, and were it +not for the fire-arms of their adversaries, would give them much +trouble. Few are captured on such occasions, and it is exceedingly +difficult to take them alive, unless when very young. These mountains +furnish them with an iron ore almost pure, in manufacturing which +they show much ingenuity. Some of their weapons were presented to +the Expedition by Josiah Moore, Esq. These are probably imitations +of the early Spanish weapons used against them. From all accounts, +the natives are of Malay origin, and allied to those of the other +islands of the extensive archipelago of the Eastern Seas; but the +population of the towns and cities of the island are so mixed, +from the constant intercourse with Chinese, Europeans, and others, +that there is no pure blood among them. When at Manila, we obtained a +grammar of the Tagalog language, which is said to be now rarely heard, +and to have become nearly obsolete. This grammar is believed to be the +only one extant, and was procured from a padre, who presented it to the +Expedition. (Tagalog is here mistaken for a mountaineer's dialect.--C.) + +The Pampangans are considered the finest tribe of natives; they are +excessively fond of horse-racing, and bet very considerable sums upon +it; they have the reputation of being an industrious and energetic +set of men. + +[Revenue.] The mode of raising revenue by a poll-tax causes great +discontent among all classes, for although light, it is, as it always +has been elsewhere, unpopular. All the Chinese pay a capitation tax +of four dollars. The revenue from various sources is said to amount +to one million six hundred thousand dollars, of which the poll-tax +amounts to more than one-half, the rest being derived from the customs, +tobacco, etc. There is no tax upon land. It was thought at Manila +that a revenue might be derived by indirect taxation, far exceeding +this sum, without being sensibly felt by the inhabitants. This mode +is employed in the eastern islands under the English and Dutch rule, +and it is surprising that the Spaniards also do not adopt it, or some +other method to increase resources that are so much needed. Whenever +the ministry in Spain had to meet a claim, they were a few years +ago in the habit of issuing drafts on this colonial government in +payment. These came at last in such numbers, that latterly they have +been compelled to suspend the payment of them. + +The revenue of the colonial government is very little more than will +meet the expenses; and it is believed that, notwithstanding these +unaccepted claims, it received orders to remit the surplus, if any, +to Spain, regardless of honor or good faith. + +[Government.] The government of the Philippines is in the hands of a +governor-general, who has the titles of viceroy, commander-in-chief, +sub-delegate, judge of the revenue from the post-office, commander of +the troops, captain-general, and commander of the naval forces. His +duties embrace every thing that relates to the security and defence +of the country. As advisers, he has a council called the Audiencia. + +The islands are divided into provinces, each of which has a +military officer with the title of governor, appointed by the +governor-general. They act as chief magistrates, have jurisdiction +over all disputes of minor importance, have the command of the troops +in time of war, and are collectors of the royal revenues, for the +security of which they give bonds, which must be approved of by the +comptroller-general of the treasury. The province of Cavite is alone +exempt from this rule, and the collection of tribute is there confided +to a police magistrate. + +Each province is again sub-divided into pueblos, containing a greater +or less number of inhabitants, each of which has again its ruler, +called a gobernadorcillo, who has in like manner other officers under +him to act as police magistrates. The number of the latter are very +great, each of them having his appropriate duties. These consist in the +supervision of the grain fields, coconut groves, betel-nut plantations, +and in the preservation of the general order and peace of the town. So +numerous are these petty officers, that there is scarcely a family of +any consequence, that has not a member who holds some kind of office +under government. This policy, in case of disturbances, at once +unites a large and influential body on the side of the government, +that is maintained at little expense. The gobernadorcillo exercises +the municipal authority, and is especially charged to aid the parish +priest in every thing appertaining to religious observances, etc. + +In the towns where the descendants of the Chinese are sufficiently +numerous, they can, by permission of the governor, elect their own +petty governors and officers from among themselves. + +In each town there is also a headman (cabeza de barangay), who has +the charge of fifty tributaries, in each of which is included as +many families. This division is called a barangay. This office forms +by far the most important part of the machinery of government in the +Philippine Islands, for these headmen are the attorneys of these small +districts, and become the electors of the gobernadorcillos, and other +civil officers. Only twelve, however, of them or their substitutes, +are allowed to vote in each town. + +The office of head-man existed before the conquest of the island, +and the Spaniards showed their wisdom in continuing and adapting it to +their system of police. The office among the natives was hereditary, +but their conquerors made it also elective, and when a vacancy now +occurs through want of heirs, or resignation, it is filled up by +the superintendent of the province, on the recommendation of the +gobernadorcillo and the headman. This is also the case when any new +office is created. The privileges of the headmen are great; themselves, +their wives, and their first-born children, are exempted from paying +tribute to the crown, an exoneration which is owing to their being +collectors of the royal revenues. Their duties consist in maintaining +good order and harmony, in dividing the labor required for the public +benefit equally, adjusting differences, and receiving the taxes. + +The gobernadorcillo takes cognizance of all civil cases not exceeding +two taels of gold, or forty-four dollars in silver; all criminal +cases must be sent to the chief of the province. The headmen formerly +served for no more than three years, and if this was done faithfully, +they became and were designated as principals, in virtue of which +rank they received the title of Don. + +The election takes place at the court-house of the town; the electors +are the gobernadorcillo whose office is about to expire, and twelve +of the oldest headmen, cabezas de barangay, collectors of tribute +for the gobernadorcillo they must select, by a plurality of votes, +three individuals, who must be able to speak, read, and write the +Spanish language. The voting is done by ballot, in the presence +of the notary (escribano), and the chief of the province, who +presides. The curate may be present, to look after the interest of +the church but for no other purpose. After the votes are taken, they +are sealed and transmitted to the governor-general, who selects one +of the three candidates, and issues a commission. In the more distant +provinces, the chief of the district has the authority to select the +gobernadorcillo, and fill up the commission, a blank form of which, +signed by the governor-general, is left with him for that purpose. + +The headmen may be elected petty governors, and still retain their +office, and collect the tribute or taxes; for it is not considered +just, that the important office of chief of Barangay should deprive +the holder of the honor of being elected gobernadorcillo. + +The greater part of the Chinese reside in the province of Tondo, +but the tribute is there collected by the alcalde mayor, with an +assistant taken from among the officers of the royal treasury. + +The poll-tax on the Chinese amounts to four dollars a head; it was +formerly one-half more. Tax-lists of the Chinese are kept, in which +they are registered and classified; and opposite the name is the +amount at which the individual is assessed. + +The Spanish government seems particularly desirous of giving +consequence even to its lowest offices; and in order to secure it to +them, it is directed that the chiefs of provinces, shall treat the +gobernadorcillos with respect, offering them seats when they enter +their houses or other places, and not allowing them to remain standing; +furthermore, the parish curates are required to treat them with +equal respect. So far as concerns the provinces, the government may +be called, notwithstanding the officers, courts. etc., monastic. The +priests rule, and frequently administer punishment, with their own +hands, to either sex, of which an instance will be cited hereafter. + +[A country excursion.] As soon as we could procure the necessary +passports, which were obligingly furnished by the governor to "Don +Russel Sturges y quatro Anglo Americanos," our party left Manila +for a short jaunt to the mountains. It was considered as a mark of +great favor on the part of his excellency to grant this indulgence, +particularly as he had a few months prior denied it to a party of +French officers. I was told that he preferred to make it a domestic +concern, by issuing the passport in the name of a resident, in order +that compliance in this case might not give umbrage to the French. It +was generally believed that the cause of the refusal in the former +instance was the imprudent manner in which the French officers went +about taking plans and sketches, at the corners of streets, etc., which +in the minds of an unenlightened and ignorant colonial government, of +course excited suspicion. Nothing can be so ridiculous as this system +of passports; for if one was so disposed, a plan, and the most minute +information of every thing that concerns the defences of places, can +always be obtained at little cost now-a-days; for such is the skill of +engineers, that a plan is easily made of places, merely by a sight of +them. We were not, however, disposed to question the propriety of the +governor's conduct in the former case, and I left abundantly obliged +to him for a permission that would add to our stock of information. + +It was deemed at first impossible for the party to divide, as they +had but one passport, and some difficulties were anticipated from +the number being double that stated in the passport. The party +consisted of Messrs. Sturges, Pickering, Eld, Rich, Dana, and +Brackenridge. Mr. Sturges, however, saw no difficulty in dividing the +party after they had passed beyond the precincts of the city, taking +the precaution, at the same time, not to appear together beyond the +number designated on the paper. + +On the 14th, they left Manila, and proceeded in carriages to Santa Ana, +on the Pasig, in order to avoid the delay that would ensue if they +followed the windings of the river in a banca, and against the current. + +At Santa Ana they found their bancas waiting for them, and +embarked. Here the scene was rendered animated by numerous boats of +all descriptions, from the parao to the small canoe of a single log. + +There is a large population that live wholly on the water: for the +padrones of the parao have usually their families with them, which, +from the great variety of ages and sexes, give a very different and +much more bustling appearance to the crowd of boats, than would be the +case if they only contained those who are employed to navigate them. At +times the paraos and bancas, of all sizes, together with the saraboas +and pativas (duck establishments), become jumbled together, and create +a confusion and noise such as is seldom met with in any other country. + +[Duck farms.] The pativas are under the care of the original +inhabitants, to whom exclusively the superintendence of the ducklings +seems to be committed. The pens are made of bamboo, and are not +over a foot high. The birds were all in admirable order, and made no +attempt to escape over the low barrier, although so light that it was +thought by some of our gentlemen it would not have sufficed to confine +American ducks, although their wings might have been cut. The mode of +giving them exercise was by causing them to run round in a ring. The +good understanding existing between the keepers and their charge was +striking, particularly when the former were engaged in cleansing the +pens, and assisting the current to carry off the impurities. In the +course of their sail, it was estimated that hundreds of thousands of +ducks of all ages were seen. + +The women who were seen were usually engaged in fishing with a hook +and line, and were generally standing in the water, or in canoes. The +saraboas were here also in use. The run of the fish is generally +concentrated by a chevaux-de-frise to guide them towards the nets +and localities where the fishermen place themselves. + +At five o'clock they reached the Laguna de Bay, where they took in a +new crew, with mast and sail. This is called twenty-five miles from +Manila by the river; the distance in a bird's flight is not over +twelve. The whole distance is densely peopled, and well cultivated. The +crops consist of indigo, rice, etc., with groves of the betel, palm, +coconut, and quantities of fruit trees. + +The shores of the lake are shelving, and afford good situations +for placing fish-weirs, which are here established on an extensive +scale. These weirs are formed of slips of bamboo, and are to be seen +running in every direction to the distance of two or three miles. They +may be said to invest entirely the shores of the lake for several miles +from its outlet, and without a pilot it would be difficult to find the +way through them. At night, when heron and tern were seen roosting on +the top of each slat, these weirs presented rather a curious spectacle. + +The Laguna de Bay is said to be about ten leagues in length by three in +width, and trends in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction. + +After dark, the bancas separated. Mr. Sturges, with Dr. Pickering +and Mr. Eld, proceeded to visit the mountain of Maijaijai, +while Messrs. Rich, Dana, and Brackenridge, went towards the Taal +Volcano. The latter party took the passport, while the former relied +upon certain letters of introduction for protection, in case of +difficulty. + +Mr. Sturges, with his party, directed his course to the east side +of the lake, towards a point called Jalajala, which they reached +about three o'clock in the morning, and stopped for the crew to cook +some rice, etc. At 8 o'clock a.m., they reached Santa Cruz, situated +about half a mile up a small streamlet, called Paxanau. At this place +they found Don Escudero to whom they had a letter of introduction, +and who holds a civil appointment. They were kindly received by this +gentleman and his brown lady, with their interesting family. He at +once ordered horses for them to proceed to the mission of Maijaijai, +and entertained them with a sumptuous breakfast. + +They were not prepared to set out before noon, until which time they +strolled about the town of Santa Cruz, the inhabitants of which +are Tagalogs. There are only two old Spaniards in the place. The +province in which Santa Cruz is situated contains about five thousand +inhabitants, of whom eighteen hundred pay tribute. + +The people have the character of being orderly, and govern themselves +without the aid of the military. The principal article of culture is +the coconut tree, which is seen in large groves. The trunks of these +were notched, as was supposed, for the purpose of climbing them. From +the spathe a kind of spirit is manufactured, which is fully as strong +as our whiskey. + +About noon they left Don Escudero's, and took a road leading to the +southward and eastward, through a luxuriant and beautiful country, +well cultivated, and ornamented with lofty coconut trees, betel +palms, and banana groves. Several beautiful valleys were passed, +with streamlets rushing through them. + +Maijaijai is situated about one thousand feet above the Laguna de Bay, +but the rise is so gradual that it was almost imperceptible. The +country has everywhere the appearance of being densely peopled; +but no more than one village was passed between Santa Cruz and the +mission. They had letters to F. Antonio Romana y Aranda, padre of +the mission, who received them kindly, and entertained them most +hospitably. [Climbing Banajao.] When he was told of their intention +to visit the mountain, he said it was impossible with such weather, +pointing to the black clouds that then enveloped its summit; and he +endeavoured to persuade the gentlemen to desist from what appeared +to him a mad attempt; but finding them resolved to make the trial, +he aided in making all the necessary preparations, though he had no +belief in their success. + +On the morning of the 27th, after mass, Mr. Eld and Dr. Pickering +set out, but Mr. Sturges preferred to keep the good padre company +until their return. The padre had provided them with guides, horses, +twenty natives, and provisions for three days. He had been himself +on the same laborious journey, some six months before, and knew its +fatigues, although it turned out afterwards that his expedition was +performed in fine weather, and that he had been borne on a litter by +natives the whole way. + +The first part of the road was wet and miry, and discouraging +enough. The soil was exceedingly rich, producing tropical plants +in great profusion, in the midst of which were seen the neat bamboo +cottages, with their industrious and cleanly-looking inhabitants. When +they reached the foot of the mountain, they found it was impossible to +ride farther, and were obliged to take to walking, which was, however, +less of a hardship than riding the little rats of horses, covered with +mud and dirt, which were at first deemed useless; but the manner in +which they ascended and maintained themselves on the slippery banks, +surpassed anything they had before witnessed in horseflesh. The first +part of the ascent of the mountain was gradual, but over a miry path, +which was extremely slippery; and had it not been for the sticks stuck +down by the party of the padre in their former ascent, they would have +found it extremely difficult to overcome; to make it more disagreeable, +it rained all the time. + +It took about two hours to reach the steep ascent. The last portion +of their route had been through an uninhabited region, with some +openings in the woods, affording pasture-grounds to a few small herds +of buffalo. In three hours they reached the half-way house, by a very +steep and regular ascent. Here the natives insisted upon stopping +to cook their breakfast, as they had not yet partaken of anything +through the day. The natives now endeavored to persuade them it was +impracticable to go any farther, or at least to reach the top of the +mountain and return before night. Our gentlemen lost their patience at +the delay, and after an hour's endurance of it, resolved to set out +alone. Six of the natives followed them, and by half-past three they +reached the summit, where they found it cold and uncomfortable. The +ascent had been difficult, and was principally accomplished by catching +hold of shrubs and the roots of trees. The summit is comparatively +bare, and not more than fifty feet in width. The side opposite to +that by which they mounted was perpendicular, but owing to the thick +fog they could not see the depth to which the precipice descended. + +The observations with the barometers were speedily taken, which gave +the height of Banajao as six thousand five hundred feet. The trees +on the summit were twenty or thirty feet high, and a species of +fir was very common. Gaultheria, attached to the trunks of trees, +Rhododendrons, and Polygonums, also abounded. The rocks were so +covered with soil that it was difficult to ascertain their character; +Dr. Pickering is of opinion, however, that they are not volcanic. The +house on the summit afforded them little or no shelter; being a mere +shed, open on all sides, they found it untenantable, and determined +to return as soon as their observations were finished, to the half-way +house, which they reached before dark. + +The night was passed uncomfortably, and in the morning they made +an early start down the mountain to reach the native village at its +foot, where they were refreshed with a cup of chocolate, cakes, and +some dulces, according to the custom of the country. At ten o'clock +they reached the mission, where they were received by the padre and +Mr. Sturges. The former was greatly astonished to hear that they +had really been to the summit, and had accomplished in twenty-four +hours what he had deemed a labor of three days. He quickly attended +to their wants, the first among which was dry clothing; and as their +baggage had unfortunately been left at Santa Cruz, the wardrobe of +the rotund padre was placed at their disposal. Although the fit was +rather uncouth on the spare forms of our gentlemen, yet his clothes +served the purpose tolerably well, and were thankfully made use +of. During their absence, Mr. Sturges had been much amused with the +discipline he had witnessed at the hands of the church, which here +seem to be the only visible ruling power. Two young natives had made +complaint to the padre that a certain damsel had entered into vows +or engagements to marry both; she was accordingly brought up before +the padre, Mr. Sturges being present. The padre first lectured her +most seriously upon the enormity of her crime, then inflicted several +blows on the palm of her outstretched hand, again renewing the lecture, +and finally concluding with another whipping. The girl was pretty, and +excited the interest of our friend, who looked on with much desire to +interfere, and save the damsel from the corporal punishment, rendered +more aggravated by the dispassionate and cool manner in which it and +the lecture were administered. In the conversation which ensued, the +padre said he had more cases of the violation of the marriage vow, +and of infidelity, than any other class of crimes. + +After a hearty breakfast, or rather dinner, and expressing their +thanks to the padre, they rode back to Santa Cruz, where they arrived +at an early hour, and at nine o'clock in the evening they embarked +in their bancas for Manila. + +[Los Baños.] In the morning they found themselves, after a comfortable +night, at Los Baños. Here they took chocolate with the padre, to whom +Mr. Sturges had a letter, who informed them that the other party had +left the place the evening before for Manila. + +This party had proceeded to the town of Baia, where they arrived at +daylight on the 15th. Baia is quite a pretty place, and well situated; +the houses are clean and comfortable, and it possessed a venerable +stone church, with towers and bells. On inquiring for the padre, +they found that he was absent, and it was in consequence impossible +for them to procure horses to proceed to the Volcano of Taal. They +therefore concluded to walk to the hot springs at Los Baños, about +five miles distant. Along the road they collected a number of curious +plants. Rice is much cultivated, and fields of it extend to some +distance on each side of the road. Buffaloes were seen feeding and +wallowing in the ditches. + +At Los Baños the hot springs are numerous, the water issuing from the +rock over a considerable surface. The quantity of water discharged +by them is large, and the whole is collected and conducted to the +bathing-houses. The temperature of the water at the mouth of the +culvert was 180°. + +The old bath-house is a singular-looking place, being built on the +hill-side, in the old Spanish style, with large balconies, that are +enclosed in the manner already described, in speaking of the houses +in Manila. It is beautifully situated, and overlooks the baths and +lake. The baths are of stone, and consist of two large rooms, in +each of which is a niche, through which the hot water passes. This +building is now in ruins, the roof and floors having fallen in. + +Los Baños is a small village, but contains a respectable-looking +stone church, and two or three houses of the same material. Here the +party found a difficulty in getting on, for the alcalde could not +speak Spanish, and they were obliged to use an interpreter, in order +to communicate with him. Notwithstanding this, he is a magistrate, +whose duty it is to administer laws written in that language. Finding +they could not succeed even here in procuring guides or horses, +they determined to remain and explore Mount Maquiling, the height +of which is three thousand four hundred and fifty feet, and in the +meantime to send for their bancas. + +The next day they set out on their journey to that mountain, and the +first part of their path lay over a gentle ascent, through cultivated +grounds. Next succeeded an almost perpendicular hill, bare of trees, +and overgrown with a tall grass, which it was difficult to pass +through. + +Such had been the time taken up, that the party found it impossible +to reach the summit and return before dark. They therefore began +to collect specimens; and after having obtained a full load, they +returned late in the afternoon to Los Baños. + +The mountain is composed of trachytic rocks and tufa, which are +occasionally seen to break through the rich and deep soil, showing +themselves here and there, in the deep valleys which former volcanic +action has created, and which have destroyed the regular outline +of the cone-shaped mountain. The tufa is generally found to form +the gently-sloping plains that surround these mountains, and has in +all probability been ejected from them. Small craters, of some two +hundred feet in height, are scattered over the plains. The tufa is +likewise exposed to view on the shores of the lake; but elsewhere, +except on a few bare hills, it is entirely covered with the dense +and luxuriant foliage. The tufa is generally of a soft character, +crumbling in the fingers, and in it are found coarse and fine fragments +of scoria, pumice, etc. The layers are from a few inches to five feet +in thickness. + +In the country around Los Baños, there are several volcanic hills, and +on the sides of Mount Maquiling are appearances of parasitic cones, +similar to those observed at the Hawaiian Islands; but time and the +foliage have so disguised them, that it is difficult to determine +exactly their true character. + +I regretted exceedingly that the party that set out for the Lake of +Taal was not able to reach it, as, from the accounts I had, it must +be one of the most interesting portions of the country. It lies nearly +south-west from Manila, and occupies an area of about one hundred and +twenty square miles. The Volcano of Taal is situated on an island +near the center of it, and is now in action. The cone which rises +from its center is remarkably regular, and consists for the most part +of cinders and scoria. It has been found to be nine hundred feet in +elevation above the lake. The crater has a diameter of two miles, +and its depth is equal to the elevation; the walls of the crater +are nearly perpendicular, so much so that the descent cannot be +made without the assistance of ropes. At the bottom there are two +small cones. Much steam issues from the many fissures, accompanied +by sulphurous acid gas. The waters of the lake are impregnated with +sulphur, and there are said to be also large beds of sulphur. In +the opinion of those who have visited this spot, the whole lake once +formed an immense crater; and this does not appear very improbable, +if we are to credit the accounts we received of the many craters +on this island that are now filled with water; for instance, in the +neighborhood of San Pablo there are said to be eight or nine. + +[The hot springs.] The hot springs of Los Baños are numerous, and in +their vicinity large quantities of steam are seen to issue from the +shore of the lake. There are about a dozen which give out a copious +supply of water. The principal one has been enclosed, and made +to flow through a stone aqueduct, which discharges a considerable +stream. The temperature of the water as it leaves the aqueduct is +178°. The villagers use it for cooking and washing; the signs of the +former employment are evident enough from the quantities of feathers +from the poultry that have been scalded and plucked preparatory to +cooking. The baths are formed by a small circular building six feet +in diameter, erected over the point of discharge for the purpose of +securing a steam-bath; the temperature of these is 160° and 140°. A +change of temperature is said to have occurred in the latter. + +The rocks in the vicinity are all tufa, and some of the springs break +out close to the cold water of the lake. Near the aqueduct, a stone +wall surrounds one of the principal outlets. Two-thirds of the area +thus enclosed is occupied by a pond of warm water, and the other third +is divided into two stone reservoirs, built for baths. These baths +had at one time a high reputation, and were a very fashionable resort +for the society of Manila; but their celebrity gradually diminished, +and the whole premises have gone out of repair, and are fast falling +to ruin. + +The water of the springs has no perceptible taste, and only a very +faint smell of sulphur is perceived. No gas escapes from it, but a +white incrustation covers the stones over which the water flows. + +Some of these waters were obtained, and since our return were put into +the hands of Dr. C. T. Jackson, of Boston, who gives the following +analysis: + +Specific gravity, 1.0043; thermometer 60°; barometer 30.05 in. + +A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to three thousand grains of +distilled water, on evaporation gave-- + +Dry salts, 5.95 grains. + +A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to one thousand grains of +distilled water, was operated on for each of the following ingredients: + + + Chlorine 0.66 + Carbonic acid 0.16 + Sulphuric acid 0.03 + Soda and sodium 0.97 + Magnesia 0.09 + Lime 0.07 + Potash traces + Organic matter ,, + Manganese ,, + ---- + 1.98 + + +[Mount Maquiling.] On Mount Maquiling, wild buffaloes, hogs, a small +species of deer, and monkeys are found. Birds are also very numerous, +and among them is the horn-bill; the noise made by this bird resembles +a loud barking; report speaks of them as an excellent bird for the +table. Our gentlemen reached their lodging-place as the night closed +in, and the next day again embarked for Manila, regretting that +time would not permit them to make another visit to so interesting +a field of research. They found the lake so rough that they were +compelled to return, and remain until eight o'clock. This, however, +gave our botanists another opportunity of making collections, among +which were beautiful specimens of Volkameria splendens, with elegant +scarlet flowers, and a Brugmansia, which expanded its beautiful +silvery flowers after sunset. On the shores a number of birds were +feeding, including pelicans, with their huge bills, the diver, with +its long arched neck, herons, gulls, eagles, and snow-white cranes, +with ducks and other small aquatic flocks. Towards night these were +joined by large bats, that were seen winging their way towards the +plantations of fruit. These, with quantities of insects, gave a vivid +idea of the wonderful myriads of animated things that are constantly +brought into being in these tropical and luxuriant climates. + +Sailing all night in a rough sea, they were much incommoded by the +water, which was shipped into the banca and kept them constantly baling +out: they reached the Pasig river at daylight, and again passed the +duck establishments, and the numerous boats and bancas on their way +to the markets of Manila. + +Both the parties reached the consul's the same day, highly pleased with +their respective jaunts. To the kindness of Messrs. Sturges and Moore, +we are mainly indebted for the advantages and pleasures derived from +the excursions. + +The instruments were now embarked, and preparations made for going +to sea. Our stay at Manila had added much to our collections; we +obtained many new specimens, and the officers and naturalists had +been constantly and profitably occupied in their various duties. + +We went on board on January 20, and were accompanied to the vessel +by Messrs. Sturges and Moore, with several other residents of Manila. + +We had, through the kindness of Captain Salomon, procured a native +pilot for the Sulu Sea, who was to act as interpreter. + +On the morning of the 21st, we took leave of our friends, and got +under way. The same day, and before we had cleared the bay, we spoke +the American ship Angier, which had performed the voyage from the +United States in one hundred and twenty-four days, and furnished us +with late and interesting news. We then, with a strong northerly wind, +made all sail to the south for the Straits of Mindoro. + + +Sulu in 1842 + +On the evening of January 21, the Vincennes, with the tender in +company, left Manila bay. I then sent for Mr. Knox, who commanded +the latter, and gave him directions to keep closely in company with +the Vincennes, and at the same time pointed out to him places of +rendezvous where the vessels might again meet in case any unavoidable +circumstance caused their separation. I was more particular in giving +him instructions to avoid losing sight of the Vincennes, as I was aware +that my proposed surveys might be impeded or frustrated altogether, +were I deprived of the assistance of the vessel under his command. + +[Mindoro.] On the 22nd, we passed the entrance of the Straits of San +Bernardino. It would have been my most direct route to follow these +straits until I had passed Mindoro, and it is I am satisfied the safest +course, unless the winds are fair, for the direct passage. My object, +however, was to examine the ground for the benefit of others, and the +Apo Shoal, which lies about mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro, +claimed my first attention. The tender was despatched to survey it, +while I proceeded in the Vincennes to examine the more immediate +entrance to the Sulu Sea, off the southwest end of Mindoro. + +Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro, and our observations +made it two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shape of a +dome, and appears remarkably regular when seen from its western +side. On approaching Mindoro, we, as is usual, under high islands, +lost the steady breeze, and the wind became light for the rest of +the day. Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic; +it appears as if thrown up in confused masses; it is not much settled, +as the more southern islands are preferred to it as a residence. + +On the 23rd, we ascertained the elevation of the highest peak of +the island by triangulation to be three thousand one hundred and +twenty-six fet. The easternmost island of the Palawan group, Busuanga, +was at the time just in sight from the deck, to the southwest. + +It had been my intention to anchor at Ambolou Island; but the wind +died away before we reached it, and I determined to stand off and on +all night. + +On the 24th, I began to experience the truth of what Captain Halcon had +asserted, namely, that the existing charts were entirely worthless, +and I also found that my native pilot was of no more value than +they were, he had evidently passed the place before; but whether +the size of the vessel, so much greater than any he had sailed in, +confused him, or whether it was from his inability to understand and +to make himself understood by us, he was of no use whatever, and we +had the misfortune of running into shoal water, barely escaping the +bottom. These dangers were usually quickly passed, and we soon found +ourselves again floating in thirty or forty fathoms water. + +We continued beating to windward, in hopes of being joined by the +Flying-fish, and I resolved to finish the survey towards the island +of Semarara. We found every thing in a different position from that +assigned it by any of the charts with which we were furnished. On +this subject, however, I shall not dwell, but refer those who desire +particular information to the charts and Hydrographical Memoir. + +Towards evening, I again ran down to the southwest point of the island +of Mindoro, and sent a letter on shore to the pueblo, with directions +to have it put on board the tender, when she should arrive. We then +began to beat round Semarara, in order to pass over towards Panay. + +The southern part of Mindoro is much higher than the northern +but appears to be equally rough. It is, however, susceptible of +cultivation, and there are many villages along its shores. + +Semarara is moderately high, and about fifteen miles in circumference; +it is inhabited, and like Mindoro much wooded. According to the native +pilot, its shores are free from shoals. It was not until the next day +that we succeeded in reaching Panay. I determined to pass the night +off Point Potol, the north end of Panay, as I believed the sea in its +neighborhood to be free of shoals, and wished to resume our running +survey early in the morning. + +[Panay.] At daylight on the 27th we continued the survey down the +coast of Panay, and succeeded in correcting many errors in the +existing charts (both English and Spanish). The channel along this +side is from twelve to twenty miles wide, and suitable for beating +in; little current is believed to exist; and the tides, as far as +our observations went, seem to be regular and of little strength. + +The island of Panay is high and broken, particularly on the south +end; its shores are thickly settled and well cultivated. Indigo and +sugar-cane claim much of the attention of the inhabitants. The natives +are the principal cultivators. They pay to government a capitation tax +of seven reals. Its population is estimated at three hundred thousand, +which I think is rather short of the actual number. + +On all the hills there are telegraphs of rude construction, to give +information of the approach of piratical prahus from Sulu, which +formerly were in the habit of making attacks upon the defenceless +inhabitants and carrying them off into slavery. Of late years they have +ceased these depredations, for the Spaniards have resorted to a new +mode of warfare. Instead of pursuing and punishing the offenders, they +now intercept all their supplies, both of necessaries and luxuries; +and the fear of this has had the effect to deter pirates from their +usual attacks. + +We remained off San Pedro for the night, in hopes of falling in with +the Flying-fish in the morning. + +On the morning of the 28th, the Flying-fish was discovered plainly in +sight. I immediately stood for her, fired a gun and made signal. At +seven o'clock, another gun was fired, but the vessel still stood off, +and was seen to make sail to the westward without paying any regard +whatever to either, and being favored by a breeze while the Vincennes +was becalmed, she stole off and was soon out of sight. [270] + +After breakfast we opened the bay of Antique, on which is situated the +town of San José. As this bay apparently offered anchorage for vessels +bound up this coast, I determined to survey it; and for this purpose +the boats were hoisted out and prepared for surveying. Lieutenant +Budd was despatched to visit the pueblo called San José. + +On reaching the bay, the boats were sent to different points of it, +and when they were in station, the ship fired guns to furnish bases +by the sound, and angles were simultaneously measured. The boats made +soundings on their return to the ship, and thus completed this duty, +so that in an hour or two afterwards the bay was correctly represented +on paper. It offers no more than a temporary anchorage for vessels, +and unless the shore is closely approached, the water is almost too +deep for the purpose. + +[San José.] At San José a Spanish governor resides, who presides over +the two pueblos of San Pedro and San José, and does the duty also +of alcalde. Lieutenant Budd did not see him, as he was absent, but +his lady did the honors. Lieutenant Budd represented the pueblo as +cleanly and orderly. About fifteen soldiers were seen, who compose +the governor's guard, and more were said to be stationed at San +Pedro. A small fort of eight guns commands the roadstead. The beach +was found to be of fine volcanic sand, composed chiefly of oxide of +iron, and comminuted shells; there is here also a narrow shore reef +of coral. The plain bordering the sea is covered with a dense growth +of coconut trees. In the fine season the bay is secure, but we were +informed that in westerly and southwesterly gales heavy seas set in, +and vessels are not able to lie at anchor. Several small vessels were +lying in a small river about one and a half miles to the southward of +the point on which the fort is situated. The entrance to this river +is very narrow and tortuous. + +Panay is one of the largest islands of the group. We had an opportunity +of measuring the height of some of its western peaks or highlands, +none of which exceed three thousand feet. The interior and eastern side +have many lofty summits, which are said to reach an altitude of seven +thousand five hundred feet; but these, as we passed, were enveloped +in clouds, or shut out from view by the nearer highlands. The general +features of the island are like those of Luzon and Mindoro. The few +specimens we obtained of its rocks consisted of the different varieties +of talcose formation, with quartz and jasper. The specimens were of +no great value, as they were much worn by lying on the beach. + +The higher land was bare of trees, and had it not been for the +numerous fertile valleys lying between the sharp and rugged spurs, +it would have had a sterile appearance. + +The bay of Antique is in latitude 10° 40' N., longitude 121° 59' +30'' E. + +It was my intention to remain for two or three days at a convenient +anchorage to enable us to make short excursions into the interior; +but the vexatious mismanagement of the tender now made it incumbent +that I should make every possible use of the time to complete the +operations connected with the hydrography of this sea; for I perceived +that the duties which I intended should be performed by her, would now +devolve upon the boats, and necessarily expose both officers and men to +the hazard of contracting disease. I regretted giving up this design, +not only on my own account and that of the Expedition, but because of +the gratification it would have afforded personally to the naturalists. + +The town of San José has about thirty bamboo houses, some of which +are filled in with clay or mortar, and plastered over, both inside +and out. Few of them are more than a single story in height. That of +the governor is of the same material, and overtops the rest; it is +whitewashed, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. In the vicinity of +the town are several beautiful valleys, which run into the mountains +from the plain that borders the bay. The landing is on a bamboo bridge, +which has been erected over an extensive mud-flat, that is exposed at +low water, and prevents any nearer approach of boats. This bridge is +about seven hundred feet in length; and a novel plan has been adopted +to preserve it from being carried away. The stems of bamboo not +being sufficiently large and heavy to maintain the superstructure in +the soft mud, a scaffold is constructed just under the top, which is +loaded with blocks of large stone, and the outer piles are secured to +anchors or rocks, with grass rope. The roadway or top is ten feet wide, +covered with split bamboo, woven together, and has rails on each side, +to assist the passenger. This is absolutely necessary for safety; +and even with this aid, one unaccustomed to it must be possessed +of no little bodily strength to pass over this smooth, slippery, +and springy bridge, without accident. + +Two pirogues were at anchor in the bay, and on the shore was the +frame of a vessel which had evidently been a long while on the stocks, +for the weeds and bushes near the keel were six or eight feet high, +and a portion of the timbers were decayed. Carts and sleds drawn by +buffaloes were in use, and everything gave it the appearance of a +thriving village. Although I have mentioned the presence of soldiers, +it was observed on landing that no guard was stationed about or even at +the fort; but shortly afterwards a soldier was seen hurrying towards +the latter, in the act of dressing himself in his regimentals, and +another running by his side, with his cartridge-box and musket. In +a little while one was passing up and down on his post, as though he +was as permanent there as the fort itself. + +After completing these duties, the light airs detained us the remainder +of the day under Panay, in sight of the bay. On the 29th, at noon, +we had been wafted by it far enough in the offing to obtain the +easterly breeze, which soon became strong, with an overcast sky, +and carried us rapidly on our course; my time would not permit my +heaving-to. We kept on our course for Mindanao during the whole night, +and were constantly engaged in sounding, with our patent lead, with +from thirty to forty fathoms cast, to prevent our passing over this +part of the sea entirely unexamined. + +[Mindanao.] At daylight on the 31st, we had the island of Mindanao +before us, but did not reach its western cape until 5 p.m. This island +is high and broken, like those to the north of it, but, unlike them, +its mountains are covered with forests to their very tops, and there +were no distinct cones of minor dimensions, as we had observed on +the others. If they do exist, they were hidden by the dense forest. + +I had determined to anchor at Caldera, a small port on the south-west +side of Mindanao, about ten miles distant from Zamboanga, where the +governor resides. The latter is a considerable place, but the anchorage +in its roadstead is said to be bad, and the currents that run through +the Straits of Basilan are represented to be strong. Caldera, on the +other hand, has a good, though small anchorage, which is free from the +currents of the straits. It is therefore an excellent stopping-place, +in case of the tide proving unfavorable. On one of its points stands +a small fort, which, on our arrival, hoisted Spanish colors. + +At six o'clock we came to anchor at Caldera, in seven fathoms +water. There were few indications of inhabitants, except at and +near the fort. An officer was despatched to the fort, to report the +ship. It was found to be occupied by a few soldiers under the command +of a lieutenant. + +[Caldera fort.] The fort is about seventy feet square, and is built +of large blocks of red coral, which evidently have not been taken from +the vicinity of the place, as was stated by the officers of the fort; +for although our parties wandered along the alluvial beach for two or +three miles in each direction, no signs of coral were observed. Many +fragments of red, gray, and purple basalt and porphyry were met with +along the beach; talcose rock and slate, syenite, hornblend, quartz, +both compact and slaty, with chalcedony, were found in pieces and +large pebbles. Those who were engaged in dredging reported the bottom +as being of coral, in from four to six or eight fathoms; but this +was of a different kind from that of which the fort was constructed. + +The fort was built in the year 1784, principally for protection against +the Sulu pirates, who were in the habit of visiting the settlements, +and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves, to obtain ransom for +them. This, and others of the same description, were therefore +constructed as places of refuge for the inhabitants, as well as to +afford protection to vessels. + +Depredations are still committed, which render it necessary to keep +up a small force. One or two huts which were seen in the neighborhood +of the bay, are built on posts twenty feet from the ground, and into +them they ascend by ladders, which are hauled up after the occupants +have entered. + +These, it is said, are the sleeping-huts, and are so built for the +purpose of preventing surprise at night. Before our arrival we had +heard that the villages were all so constructed, but a visit to one +soon showed that this was untrue. The natives seen at the village +were thought to be of a decidedly lighter color and a somewhat +different expression from the Malays. They were found to be very +civil, and more polished in manners than our gentlemen expected. On +asking for a drink of water, it was brought in a glass tumbler on a +china plate. An old woman, to whom they had presented some trifles, +took the trouble to meet them in another path on their return, and +insisted on their accepting a basket of potatoes. Some of the houses +contained several families, and many of them had no other means of +entrance than a notched post stuck up to the door. + +The forests of Mindanao contain a great variety of trees, some of +which are of large size, rising to the height of one hundred and +and one hundred and fifty feet. Some of their trunks are shaped like +buttresses, similar to those before spoken of at Manila, from which +they obtain broad slabs for the tops of tables. The trunks were +observed to shoot up remarkably straight. Our botanical gentlemen, +though pleased with the excursion, were disappointed at not being +able to procure specimens from the lofty trees; and the day was less +productive in this respect than they had anticipated. Large woody +vines were common, which enveloped the trunks of trees in their folds, +and ascending to their tops, prevented the collection of the most +desirable specimens. + +The paths leading to the interior were narrow and much obstructed; +one fine stream was crossed. Many buffaloes were observed wallowing +in the mire, and the woods swarmed with monkeys and numbers of birds, +among them the horn-bills; these kept up a continued chatter, and made +a variety of loud noises. The forests here are entirely different from +any we had seen elsewhere; and the stories of their being the abode +of large boas and poisonous snakes, make the effect still greater +on those who visit them for the first time. Our parties, however, +saw nothing of these reptiles, nor anything to warrant a belief that +such exist. Yet the officer at the fort related to me many snake +stories that seemed to have some foundation; and by inquiries made +elsewhere, I learned that they were at least warranted by some facts, +though probably not to the extent that he represented. + +Traces of deer and wild hogs were seen, and many birds were obtained, +as well as land and sea shells. Among the latter was the Malleus +vulgaris, which is used as food by the natives. The soil on this +part of the island is a stiff clay, and the plants it produces +are mostly woody; those of an herbaceous character were scarce, +and only a few orchideous epiphytes and ferns were seen. Around the +dwellings in the villages were a variety of vegetables and fruits, +consisting of sugar-cane, sweet-potato, gourds, pumpkins, peppers, +rice, water and musk melons, all fine and of large size. + +The officer at the fort was a lieutenant of infantry; one of that rank +is stationed here for a month, after which he, with the garrison, +consisting of three soldiers, are relieved, from Zamboanga, where +the Spaniards have three companies. + +[Zamboanga.] Zamboanga is a convict settlement, to which the native +rogues, principally thieves, are sent. The Spanish criminals, as I +have before stated in speaking of Manila, are sent to Spain. + +The inhabitants of the island of Mindanao, who are under the subjection +of Spain, are about ten thousand in number, of whom five or six +thousand are at or in the neighborhood of Zamboanga. The original +inhabitants, who dwell in the mountains and on the east coast, are +said to be quite black, and are represented to be a very cruel and +bad set; they have hitherto bid defiance to all attempts to subjugate +them. When the Spaniards make excursions into the interior, which is +seldom, they always go in large parties on account of the wild beasts, +serpents, and hostile natives; nevertheless, the latter frequently +attack and drive them back. + +The little fort is considered as a sufficient protection for the +fishermen and small vessels against the pirates, who inhabit the +island of Basilan, which is in sight from Mindanao, and forms the +southern side of the straits of the same name. It is said that about +seven hundred inhabit it. The name of Moro is given by the Spaniards +to all those who profess the Mohammedan religion, and by such all the +islands to the west of Mindanao, and known under the name of the Sulu +archipelago, are inhabited. + +The day we spent at Caldera was employed in surveying the bay, and +in obtaining observations for its geographical position, and for +magnetism. The flood tide sets to the northward and westward, through +the straits, and the ebb to the eastward. In the bay we found it to +run two miles an hour by the log, but it must be much more rapid in +the straits. + +At daylight on February 1st, we got under way to stand over for +the Sangboys, a small island with two sharp hills on it. One and a +half miles from the bay we passed over a bank, the least water on +which was ten fathoms on a sandy bottom, and on which a vessel might +anchor. The wind shortly after failed us, and we drifted with the tide +for some hours, in full view of the island of Mindanao, which is bold +and picturesque. We had thus a good opportunity of measuring some of +its mountain ranges, which we made about three thousand feet high. + +In the afternoon, a light breeze came from the southwest, and before +sunset I found that we were again on soundings. As soon as we had +a cast of twenty fathoms, I anchored for the night, judging it much +better than to be drifting about without any knowledge of the locality +and currents to which we were subjected. + +On the morning of the 2nd, we got under way to proceed to the +westward. As the bottom was unequal, I determined to pass through +the broadest channel, although it had the appearance of being the +shoalest, and sent two boats ahead to sound. In this way we passed +through, continuing our surveying operations, and at the same time +made an attempt to dredge; but the ground was too uneven for the +latter purpose, and little of value was obtained. + +[Sulu.] Shortly after passing the Sangboys, we had the island of +Sulu in sight, for which I now steered direct. At sunset we found +ourselves within five or six miles of Soung Harbor; but there was not +sufficient light to risk the dangers that might be in our course, +nor wind enough to command the ship; and having no bottom where we +were, I determined again to run out to sea, and anchor on the first +bank I should meet. At half-past eight o'clock, we struck sounding +in twenty-six fathoms, and anchored. + +At daylight we determined our position by angles, and found it +to correspond with part of the route we had passed over the day +before, and that we were about fifteen miles from the large island +of Sulu. Weighing anchor, we were shortly wafted by the westerly +tide and a light air towards that beautiful island, which lay in the +midst of its little archipelago; and as we were brought nearer and +nearer, we came to the conclusion that in our many wanderings we had +seen nothing to be compared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to +be well cultivated, with gentle slopes rising here and there into +eminences from one to two thousand feet high. One or two of these +might be dignified with the name of mountains, and were sufficiently +high to arrest the passing clouds; on the afternoon of our arrival +we had a singular example in the dissipation of a thunderstorm. + +Although much of the island was under cultivation, yet it had all the +freshness of a forest region. The many smokes on the hills, buildings +of large size, cottages, and cultivated spots, together with the +moving crowds on the land, the prahus, canoes, and fishing-boats on +the water gave the whole a civilized appearance. Our own vessel lay, +almost without a ripple at her side, on the glassy surface of the +sea, carried onwards to our destined anchorage by the flowing tide, +and scarce a sound was heard except the splashing of the lead as +it sought the bottom. The effect of this was destroyed in part by +the knowledge that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a +cruel and barbarous race of pirates. Towards sunset we had nearly +reached the bay of Soung, when we were met by the opposing tide, +which frustrated all our endeavors to reach it, and I was compelled +to anchor, lest we should again be swept to sea. + +As soon as the night set in, fishermen's lights were seen moving along +the beach in all directions, and gliding about in canoes, while the sea +was filled with myriads of phosphorescent animalcula. After watching +this scene for two or three hours in the calm and still night, a storm +that had been gathering reached us; but it lasted only for a short +time, and cleared off after a shower, which gave the air a freshness +that was delightful after the sultry heat we had experienced during +the day. + +The canoes of this archipelago were found to be different from any +that we had heretofore seen, not only in shape, but in making use +of a double outrigger, which consequently must give them additional +security. The paddle also is of a different shape, and has a blade at +each end, which are used alternately, thus enabling a single person to +manage them with ease. These canoes are made of a single log, though +some are built upon. They seldom carry more than two persons. The +figure on the opposite page will give a correct idea of one of them. + +We saw the fishermen engaged in trolling and using the line; but the +manner of taking fish which has been heretofore described is chiefly +practised. In fishing, as well as in all their other employments, +the kris and spear were invariably by their side. + +[Sulu harbor.] The next morning at eight o'clock we got under way, +and were towed by our boats into the bay of Soung, where we anchored +off the town in nine fathoms water. While in the act of doing so, +and after our intentions had become too evident to admit of a doubt, +the Sultan graciously sent off a message giving us permission to +enter his port. + +Lieutenant Budd was immediately despatched with the interpreter to call +upon the Datu Mulu or governor, and to learn at what hour we could see +the Sultan. When the officer reached the town, all were found asleep; +and after remaining four hours waiting, the only answer he could get +out of the Datu Mulu was, that he supposed that the Sultan would be +awake at three o'clock, when he thought I could see him. + +During this time the boats had been prepared for surveying; and after +landing the naturalists, they began the work. + +At the appointed time, Captain Hudson and myself went on shore to wait +upon the Sultan. On our approach to the town, we found that a great +proportion of it was built over the water on piles, and only connected +with the shore by narrow bridges of bamboo. The style of building in +Sulu does not differ materially from that of the Malays. The houses +are rather larger, and they surpass the others in filth. + +[Pirate craft.] We passed for some distance between the bridges to +the landing, and on our way saw several piratical prahus apparently +laid up. Twenty of these were counted, of about thirty tons burden, +evidently built for sea-vessels, and capable of mounting one or two +long guns. We landed at a small streamlet, and walked a short distance +to the Datu's house, which is of large dimensions and rudely built on +piles, which raise it about six feet above the ground, and into which +we were invited. The house of the Datu contains one room, part of which +is screened off to form the apartment of his wife. Nearly in the center +is a raised dais, eight or ten feet square, under which are stowed +all his valuables, packed in chests and Chinese trunks. Upon this +dais are placed mats for sleeping, with cushions, pillows, etc.; and +over it is a sort of canopy, hung around with fine chintz or muslin. + +The dais was occupied by the Datu, who is, next to the Sultan, the +greatest man of this island. He at once came from it to receive us, and +had chairs provided for us near his sanctum. After we were seated, he +again retired to his lounge. The Datu is small in person, and emaciated +in form, but has a quick eye and an intelligent countenance. He +lives, as he told me, with all his goods around him, and they formed +a collection such as I could scarcely imagine it possible to bring +together in such a place. The interior put me in mind of a barn +inhabited by a company of strolling players. On one side were hung up +a collection of various kinds of gay dresses, here drums and gongs, +there swords, lanterns, spears, muskets, and small cannon; on another +side were shields, buckler, masks, saws, and wheels, with belts, bands, +and long robes. The whole was a strange mixture of tragedy and farce; +and the group of natives were not far removed in appearance from the +supernumeraries that a Turkish tragedy might have brought together in +the green-room of a theatre. A set of more cowardly-looking miscreants +I never saw. They appeared ready either to trade with us, pick our +pockets, or cut our throats, as an opportunity might offer. + +The wife's apartment was not remarkable for its comforts, although +the Datu spoke of it with much consideration, and evidently held his +better half in high estimation. He was also proud of his six children, +the youngest of whom he brought out in its nurse's arms, and exhibited +with much pride and satisfaction. He particularly drew my attention +to its little highly-wrought and splendidly-mounted kris, which was +stuck through its girdle, as an emblem of his rank. He was in reality a +fine-looking child. The kitchen was behind the house, and occupied but +a small space, for they have little in the way of food that requires +much preparation. The house of the Datu might justly be termed nasty. + +We now learned the reason why the Sultan could not be seen; it was +Friday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, and he had been at the mosque from +an early hour. Lieutenant Budd had been detained, because it was not +known when he would finish his prayers; and the ceremonies of the day +were more important than usual, on account of its peculiar sanctity +in their calendar. + +[Visiting the Sultan.] Word had been sent off to the ship that the +Sultan was ready to receive me, but the messenger passed us while on +our way to shore. After we had been seated for a while, the Datu asked +if we were ready to accompany him to see the Sultan; but intimated +that no one but Captain Hudson and myself could be permitted to +lay eyes on him. Being informed that we were, he at once, and in +our presence, slipped on his silken trousers, and a new jacket, +covered with bell-buttons; put on his slippers, strapped himself +round with a long silken net sash, into which he stuck his kris, and, +with umbrella in hand, said he was ready. He now led the way out of +his house, leaving the motley group behind, and we took the path to +the interior of the town, towards the Sultan's. The Datu and I walked +hand in hand, on a roadway about ten feet wide, with a small stream +running on each side. Captain Hudson and the interpreter came next, +and a guard of six trusty slaves brought up the rear. + +When we reached the outskirts of the town, about half a mile from +the Datu's, we came to the Sultan's residence, where he was prepared +to receive us in state. His house is constructed in the same manner +as that of the Datu, but is of larger dimensions, and the piles are +rather higher. Instead of steps, we found a ladder, rudely constructed +of bamboo, and very crazy. This was so steep that it was necessary to +use the hands in mounting it. I understood that the ladder was always +removed in the night, for the sake of security. We entered at once +into the presence-chamber, where the whole divan, if such it may be +called, sat in arm-chairs, occupying the half of a large round table, +covered with a white cotton cloth. On the opposite side of the table, +seats were placed for us. On our approach, the Sultan and all his +council rose, and motioned us to our seats. When we had taken them, +the part of the room behind us was literally crammed with well-armed +men. A few minutes were passed in silence, during which time we +had an opportunity of looking at each other, and around the hall in +which we were seated. The latter was of very common workmanship, and +exhibited no signs of oriental magnificence. Overhead hung a printed +cotton cloth, forming a kind of tester, which covered about half of +the apartment. In other places the roof and rafters were visible. A +part of the house was roughly partitioned off, to the height of nine +or ten feet, enclosing, as I was afterwards told, the Sultan's sleeping +apartment, and that appropriated to his wife and her attendants. + +The Sultan is of middle height, spare and thin; he was dressed in a +white cotton shirt, loose trousers of the same material, and slippers; +he had no stockings; the bottom of his trousers was worked in scollops +with blue silk, and this was the only ornament I saw about him. On his +head he wore a small colored cotton handkerchief, wound into a turban, +that just covered the top of his head. His eyes were bloodshot, and had +an uneasy wild look, showing that he was under the effects of opium, +of which they all smoke large quantities. His teeth were as black as +ebony, which, with his bright cherry-colored lips, [271] contrasted +with his swarthy skin, gave him anything but a pleasant look. + +On the left hand of the Sultan sat his two sons, while his right +was occupied by his councillors; just behind him, sat the carrier +of his betel-nut casket. The casket was of filigree silver, about +the size of a small tea-caddy, of oblong shape, and rounded at the +top. It had three divisions, one for the leaf, another for the nut, +and a third for the lime. Next to this official was the pipe-bearer, +who did not appear to be held in such estimation as the former. + +[Treaty with United States.] I opened the conversation by desiring +that the Datu would explain the nature of our visit, and tell the +Sultan that I had come to make the treaty which he had some time +before desired to form with the United States. [272] + +The Sultan replied that such was still his desire; upon which I told +him I would draw one up for him that same day. While I was explaining +to him the terms, a brass candlestick was brought in with a lighted +tallow candle, of a very dark color, and rude shape, that showed +but little art in the manufacture. This was placed in the center +of the table, with a plate of Manila cigars. None of them, however, +were offered to us, nor any kind of refreshment. + +Our visit lasted nearly an hour. When we arose to take our leave, +the Sultan and his divan did the same, and we made our exit with low +bows on each side. + +I looked upon it as a matter of daily occurrence for all those +who came to the island to visit the Sultan; but the Datu Mulu took +great pains to make me believe that a great favor had been granted in +allowing us a sight of his ruler. On the other hand, I dwelt upon the +condescension it was on my part to visit him, and I refused to admit +that I was under any gratitude or obligation for the sight of His +Majesty the Sultan Mohammed Damaliel Kisand, but said that he might +feel grateful to me if he signed the treaty I would prepare for him. + +On our return from the Sultan's to the Datu Mulu's house, we found +even a greater crowd than before. The Datu, however, contrived to +get us seats. The attraction which drew it together was to look at +Mr. Agate, who was taking a sketch of Mohammed Polalu, the Sultan's +son, and next heir to the throne. I had hoped to procure one of the +Sultan, but this was declared to be impossible. + +The son, however, has all the characteristics of the Sulu, and +the likeness was thought an excellent one. Mohammed Polalu is about +twenty-three years of age, of a tall slender figure, with a long face, +heavy and dull eyes, as though he was constantly under the influence +of opium. So much, indeed, was he addicted to the use of this drug, +even according to the Datu Mulu's accounts, that his strength and +constitution were very much impaired. As he is kept particularly +under the guardianship of the Datu, the latter has a strong interest +in preserving this influence over him, and seems on this account to +afford him every opportunity of indulging in this deplorable habit. + +During our visit, the effects of a pipe of this drug were seen upon +him; for but a short time after he had reclined himself on the Datu's +couch and cushion, and taken a few whiffs, he was entirely overcome, +stupid, and listless. I had never seen any one so young, bearing +such evident marks of the effects of this deleterious drug. When +but partially recovered from its effects he called for his betelnut, +to revive him by its exciting effects. This was carefully chewed by +his attendant to a proper consistency, moulded in a ball about the +size of a walnut, and then slipped into the mouth of the heir apparent. + +[Interior travel prohibited.] One of the requests I had made of the +Sultan was, that the officers might have guides to pass over the +island. This was at once said to be too dangerous to be attempted, as +the datus of the interior and southern towns would in all probability +attack the parties. I understood what this meant, and replied that +I was quite willing to take the responsibility, and that the party +should be well armed. To this the Sultan replied that he would +not risk his own men. This I saw was a mere evasion, but it was +difficult and would be dangerous for our gentlemen to proceed alone, +and I therefore said no more. On our return to the Datu's, I gave +them permission to get as far from the beach as they could, but I was +afterwards informed by them that in endeavoring to penetrate into the +woods, they were always stopped by armed men. This was also the case +when they approached particular parts of the town, but they were not +molested as long as their rambles were confined to the beach. At the +Datu's we were treated to chocolate and negus in gilt-edged tumblers, +with small stale cakes, which had been brought from Manila. + +After we had sat some time I was informed that Mr. Dana missed his +bowie-knife pistol, which he had for a moment laid down on a chest. I +at once came to the conclusion that it had been stolen, and as the +theft had occurred in the Datu's house, I determined to hold him +responsible for it, and gave him at once to understand that I should +do so, informing him that the pistol must be returned before the next +morning, or he must take the consequences. This threw him into some +consternation, and by my manner he felt that I was serious. + +Captain Hudson and myself, previous to our return on board, visited +the principal parts of the town. The Chinese quarter is separated +by a body of water, and has a gateway that leads to a bridge. The +bridge is covered by a roof, and on each side of it are small shops, +which are open in front, and thus expose the goods they contain. In +the rear of the shops were the dwellings of the dealers. This sort +of bazaar contained but a very scanty assortment, and the goods were +of inferior quality. + +We visited some blacksmith-shops, where they were manufacturing krises +and spears. These shops were open sheds; the fire was made upon the +ground, and two wooden cylinders, whose valves were in the bottom, +served for bellows; when used, they had movable pistons, which were +worked by a man on an elevated seat, and answered the purpose better +than could have been expected. + +The kris is a weapon in which this people take great pride; it is of +various shapes and sizes, and is invariably worn from infancy to old +age; they are generally wavy in their blades, and are worn in wooden +scabbards, which are neatly made and highly polished. + +The market was well stocked with fruit and fish. Among the former the +durian seemed to predominate; this was the first time we had seen +it. It has a very disagreeable odour, as if decayed, and appears +to emit a sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which I observed blackened +silver. Some have described this fruit as delicious, but if the +smell is not enough, the taste in my opinion will convince any one +of the contrary. + +Mr. Brackenridge made the following list of their fruits: Durian, +Artocarpus integrifolia, Melons, water and musk, Oranges, mandarin +and bitter, Pineapples, Carica papaya, Mangosteen, Bread-fruit, +Coco and Betelnut. The vegetables were capsicums, cucumbers, yams, +sweet-potatoes, garlic, onions, edible fern-roots, and radishes of +the salmon variety, but thicker and more acrid in flavor. + +[A stolen granite monument.] In walking about the parts of the town we +were permitted to enter, large slabs of cut granite were seen, which +were presumed to be from China, where the walls of canals or streamlets +are lined with it. But Dr. Pickering in his rambles discovered pieces +that had been cut as if to form a monument, and remarked a difference +between it and the Chinese kind. On one or two pieces he saw the mark +No. 1, in black paint; the material resembled the Chelmsford granite, +and it occurred to him that the stone had been cut in Boston. I +did not hear of this circumstance until after we had left Sulu, and +have little doubt now that the interdiction against our gentlemen +visiting some parts of the town was owing to the fear they had of the +discovery of this plunder. This may have been the reason why they so +readily complied with my demands, in order to get rid of us as soon as +possible, feeling themselves guilty, and being unprepared for defence; +for, of the numerous guns mounted, few if any were serviceable. + +The theft of the pistol was so barefaced an affair, that I made up +my mind to insist on its restoration. At the setting of the watch +in the evening, it had been our practice on board the Vincennes to +fire a small brass howitzer. This frequently, in the calm evenings, +produced a great reverberation, and rolled along the water to the +surrounding islands with considerable noise. Instead of it, on this +evening, I ordered one of the long guns to be fired, believing that +the sound and reverberation alone would suffice to intimidate such +robbers. One was accordingly fired in the direction of the town, +which fairly shook the island, as they said, and it was not long +before we saw that the rogues were fully aroused, for the clatter of +gongs and voices that came over the water, and the motion of lights, +convinced me that the pistol would be forthcoming in the morning. In +this I was not mistaken, for at early daylight I was awakened by a +special messenger from the Datu to tell me that the pistol was found, +and would be brought off without delay; that he had been searching for +it all night, and had at last succeeded in finding it, as well as the +thief, on whom he intended to inflict the bastinado. Accordingly, in +a short time the pistol was delivered on board, and every expression +of friendship and good-will given, with the strongest assurances that +nothing of the kind should happen again. + +[Marongas island.] As our naturalists could have no opportunity +of rambling over the island of Sooloo, it was thought that one +of the neighbouring islands (although not so good a field) would +afford them many of the same results, and that they could examine +it unmolested. Accordingly, at an early hour, they were despatched +in boats for that purpose, with a sufficient guard to attend them +in case of necessity. The island on which they landed, Marongas, +has two hills of volcanic conglomerate and vesicular lava, containing +angular fragments embedded. The bottom was covered with living coral, +of every variety, and of different colors; but there was nothing like +a regular coral shelf, and the beach was composed of bits of coral +intermixed with dead shells, both entire and comminuted. The center +of the island was covered with mangrove-bushes; the hills were cones, +but had no craters on them. The mangroves had grown in clusters, +giving the appearance of a number of small islets. This, with the +neighboring islands, were thought to be composed in a great part of +coral, but it was impossible for our gentlemen to determine the fact. + +The day was exceedingly hot, and the island was suffering to such +a degree from drought that the leaves in many cases were curled and +appeared dry. On the face of the rocky cliff they saw many swallows +(hirundo esculenta) flying in and out of the caverns facing the sea; +but they were not fortunate enough to find any of the edible nests, +so much esteemed by Chinese epicures. + +At another part of the island they heard the crowing of a cock, +and discovered a small village, almost hidden by the mangroves, and +built over the water. In the neighborhood were several fish-baskets +set out to dry, as well as a quantity of fencing for weirs, all made +of rattan. Their shape was somewhat peculiar. After a little while the +native fishermen were seen approaching, who evidently had a knowledge +of their visit from the first. They came near with great caution +in their canoes; but after the first had spoken and reconnoitered, +several others landed, exhibiting no signs of embarrassment, and soon +motioned our party off. To indicate that force would be resorted to, +in case of refusal, at the same time they pointed to their arms, and +drew their krises. Our gentlemen took this all in good part, and, after +dispensing a few trifling presents among them, began their retreat +with a convenient speed, without, however, compromising their dignity. + +The excursion had been profitable in the way of collections, having +yielded a number of specimens of shrubs and trees, both in flower +and fruit; but owing to the drought, the herbaceous plants were, for +the most part, dried up. Among the latter, however, they saw a large +and fine terrestrial species of Epidendrum, whose stem grew to the +height of several feet, and when surmounted by its flowers reached +twelve or fifteen feet high. Many of the salt-marsh plants seen in +the Fijis, were also observed here. Besides the plants, some shells +and a beautiful cream-colored pigeon were obtained. + +During the day we were busily engaged in the survey of the harbor, +and in making astronomical and magnetical observations on the beach, +while some of the officers were employed purchasing curiosities, +on shore, at the town, and alongside the ship. These consisted of +krises, spears, shields, and shells; and the Sulus were not slow in +comprehending the kind of articles we were in search of. + +Few if any of the Sulus can write or read, though many talk +Spanish. Their accounts are all kept by the slaves. Those who can read +and write are, in consequence, highly prized. All the accounts of the +Datu of Soung are kept in Dutch, by a young Malay from Tarnate, who +writes a good hand, and speaks English, and whom we found exceedingly +useful to us. He is the slave of the Datu, who employs him for this +purpose only. He told us he was captured in a brig by the pirates of +Basilan, and sold here as a slave, where he is likely to remain for +life, although he says the Datu has promised to give him his freedom +after ten years. + +Horses, cows, and buffaloes are the beasts of burden, and a Sulu +may usually be seen riding either one or the other, armed cap-a-pie, +with kris, spear, and target, or shield. + +They use saddles cut out of solid wood, and many ride with their +stirrups so short that they bring the knees very high, and the +riders look more like well-grown monkeys than mounted men. The cows +and buffaloes are guided by a piece of thong, through the cartilage +of the nose. By law, no swine are allowed to be kept on the island, +and if they are bought, they are immediately killed. The Chinese are +obliged to raise and kill their pigs very secretly, when they desire +that species of food; for, notwithstanding the law and the prejudices +of the inhabitants, the former continue to keep swine. + +[Natives.] The inhabitants of Sulu are a tall, thin, and +effeminate-looking race: I do not recollect to have seen one corpulent +person among them. Their faces are peculiar for length, particularly +in the lower jaw and chin, with high cheek-bones, sunken, lack-lustre +eyes, and narrow foreheads. Their heads are thinly covered with hair, +which appears to be kept closely cropped. I was told that they pluck +out their beards, and dye their teeth black with antimony, and some +file them. + +Their eyebrows appear to be shaven, forming a very regular and high +arch, which they esteem a great beauty. + +The dress of the common people is very like that of the Chinese, +with loose and full sleeves, without buttons. The materials of which +it is made are grass-cloths, silks, satins, or white cotton, from +China. I should judge from the appearance of their persons, that they +ought to be termed, so far as ablutions go, a cleanly people. There +is no outward respect or obeisance shown by the slave to his master, +nor is the presence of the Datu, or even of the Sultan himself, held +in any awe. All appear upon an equality, and there does not seem to +be any controlling power; yet it may be at once perceived that they +are suspicious and jealous of strangers. + +The Sulus, although they are ready to do any thing for the sake of +plunder, even to the taking of life, yet are not disposed to hoard +their ill-gotten wealth, and, with all their faults, cannot be termed +avaricious. + +They have but few qualities to redeem their treachery, cruelty, +and revengeful dispositions; and one of the principal causes of +their being so predominant, or even of their existence, is their +inordinate lust for power. When they possess this, it is accompanied +by a haughty, consequential, and ostentatious bravery. No greater +affront can be offered to a Sulu, than to underrate his dignity and +official consequence. Such an insult is seldom forgiven, and never +forgotten. From one who has made numerous voyages to these islands, I +have obtained many of the above facts, and my own observation assures +me that this view of their character is a correct one. I would, +however, add another trait, which is common among them, and that is +cowardice, which is obvious, in spite of their boasted prowess and +daring. This trait of character is universally ascribed to them among +the Spaniards in the Philippines, who ought to be well acquainted +with them. + +The dress of the women is not unlike that of the men in +appearance. They wear close jackets of various colors when they go +abroad, and the same loose breeches as the men, but over them they +usually have a large wrapper (sarong), not unlike the pareu of the +Polynesian islanders, which is put round them like a petticoat, or +thrown over the shoulders. Their hair is drawn to the back of the head, +and around the forehead it is shaven in the form of a regular arch, +to correspond with the eyebrows. Those that I saw at the Sultan's +were like the Malays, and had light complexions, with very black +teeth. The Datu thought them very handsome, and on our return he +asked me if I had seen the Sultan's beauties. The females of Sulu +have the reputation of ruling their lords, and possess much weight +in the government by the influence they exert over their husbands. + +[Superiority of women.] It may be owing to this that there is little +jealousy of their wives, who are said to hold their virtues in no +very great estimation. In their houses they are but scantily clothed, +though women of rank have always a large number of rings on their +fingers, some of which are of great value, as well as earrings of +fine gold. They wear no stockings, but have on Chinese slippers, or +Spanish shoes. They are as capable of governing as their husbands, +and in many cases more so, as they associate with the slaves, from +whom they obtain some knowledge of Christendom, and of the habits +and customs of other nations, which they study to imitate in every way. + +The mode in which the Sulus employ their time may be exemplified by +giving that of the Datu; for all, whether free or slave, endeavor to +imitate the higher rank as far as is in their power. The datus seldom +rise before eleven o'clock, unless they have some particular business; +and the Datu Mulu complained of being sleepy in consequence of the +early hour at which we had disturbed him. + +On rising, they have chocolate served in gilt glassware, with some +light biscuit, and sweetmeats imported from China or Manila, of +which they informed me they laid in large supplies. They then lounge +about their houses, transacting a little business, and playing at +various games, or, in the trading season, go to the meeting of the +Ruma Bechara. + +At sunset they take their principal meal, consisting of stews of fish, +poultry, beef, eggs, and rice, prepared somewhat after the Chinese +and Spanish modes, mixed up with that of the Malay. Although Moslems, +they do not forego the use of wine, and some are said to indulge in +it to a great extent. After sunset, when the air has become somewhat +cooled by the refreshing breezes, they sally forth attended by their +retainers to take a walk, or proceed to the bazaars to purchase goods, +or to sell or to barter away their articles of produce. They then pay +visits to their friends, when they are in the habit of having frequent +convivial parties, talking over their bargains, smoking cigars, +drinking wine and liquors, tea, coffee, and chocolate, and indulging +in their favorite pipe of opium. At times they are entertained with +music, both vocal and instrumental, by their dependants. Of this art +they appear to be very fond, and there are many musical instruments +among them. A datu, indeed, would be looked upon as uneducated if he +could not play on some instrument. + +It is considered polite that when refreshments are handed they should +be partaken of. Those offered us by the Datu were such as are usual, +but every thing was stale. Of fruit they are said to be very fond, +and can afford to indulge themselves in any kinds. With all these +articles to cloy the appetite, only one set meal a day is taken; +though the poorer classes, fishermen and laborers, partake of two. + +[Government.] The government of the Sulu Archipelago is a kind of +oligarchy, and the supreme authority is vested in the Sultan and the +Ruma Bechara or trading council. This consists of about twenty chiefs, +either datus, or their next in rank, called orangs, who are governors +of towns or detached provinces. The influence of the individual +chiefs depends chiefly upon the number of their retainers or slaves, +and the force they can bring into their service when they require +it. These are purchased from the pirates, who bring them to Sulu and +its dependencies for sale. The slaves are employed in a variety of +ways, as in trading prahus, in the pearl and bêche de met fisheries, +and in the search after the edible birds' nests. + +A few are engaged in agriculture, and those who are at all educated +are employed as clerks. These slaves are not denied the right of +holding property, which they enjoy during their lives, but at their +death it reverts to the master. Some of them are quite rich, and +what may appear strange, the slaves of Sulu are invariably better +off than the untitled freemen, who are at all times the prey of the +hereditary datus, even of those who hold no official stations. By +all accounts these constitute a large proportion of the population, +and it being treason for any low-born freeman to injure or maltreat +a datu, the latter, who are of a haughty, overbearing, and tyrannical +disposition, seldom keep themselves within bounds in their treatment +of their inferiors. The consequence is, the lower class of freemen +are obliged to put themselves under the protection of some particular +datu, which guards them from the encroachment of others. The chief +to whom they thus attach themselves, is induced to treat them well, +in order to retain their services, and attach them to his person, +that he may, in case of need, be enabled to defend himself from +depredations, and the violence of his neighbors. + +Such is the absence of legal restraint, that all find it necessary +to go abroad armed, and accompanied by a trusty set of followers, +who are also armed. This is the case both by day and night, and, +according to the Datu's account, frequent affrays take place in the +open streets, which not unfrequently end in bloodshed. + +Caution is never laid aside, the only law that exists being that of +force; but the weak contrive to balance the power of the strong by +uniting. They have not only contentions and strife among themselves, +but it was stated at Manila that the mountaineers of Sulu, who are +said to be Christians, occasionally make inroads upon them. At Sulu, +however, it did not appear that they were under much apprehension of +these attacks. The only fear I heard expressed was by the Sultan, +in my interview with him; and the cause of this, as I have already +stated, was probably a desire to find an excuse for not affording us +facilities to go into the interior. Within twenty years, however, +the reigning sultan has been obliged to retire within his forts, +in the town of Sulu, which I have before adverted to. + +These people are hostile to the Sulus of the coast and towns, who +take every opportunity to rob them of their cattle and property, +for which the mountaineers seek retaliation when they have an +opportunity. From the manner in which the Datu spoke of them, +they are not much regarded. Through another source I learned that +the mountaineers were Papuans, and the original inhabitants of the +islands, who pay tribute to the Sultan, and have acknowledged his +authority, ever since they were converted to Islamism. Before that +time they were considered extremely ferocious, and whenever it was +practicable they were destroyed. Others speak of an original race +of Dyacks in the interior, but there is one circumstance to satisfy +me that there is no confidence to be placed in this account, namely, +that the island is not of sufficient extent to accommodate so numerous +a population as some ascribe to it. + +The forts consist of a double row of piles, filled in with coral +blocks. That situated on the east side of the small stream may be +said to mount a few guns, but these are altogether inefficient; and +in another, on the west side, which is rather a rude embankment than +a fort, there are some twelve or fifteen pieces of large calibre; +but I doubt very much if they had been fired off for years, and many +of the houses built upon the water would require to be pulled down +before these guns could be brought to bear upon any thing on the side +of the bay, supposing them to be in a good condition; a little farther +to the east of the town, I was informed they had a kind of stockade, +but none of us were permitted to see it. + +[Population.] According to our estimates, and the information we +received while at Sulu, the island itself does not contain more than +thirty thousand inhabitants, of which the town of Soung may have six +or seven thousand. The whole group may number about one hundred and +thirty thousand. I am aware, however, that it is difficult to estimate +the population of a half-civilized people, who invariably exaggerate +their own strength; and visitors are likewise prone to do the same +thing. The Chinese comprise about an eighth of the population of the +town, and are generally of the lower class. They are constantly busy +at their trades, and intent upon making money. + +At Soung, business seems active, and all, slaves as well as masters, +seem to engage in it. The absence of a strong government leaves all at +liberty to act for themselves, and the Ruma Bechara gives unlimited +freedom to trade. These circumstances promote the industry of the +community, and even that of the slave, for he too, as before observed, +has a life interest in what he earns. + +Soung being the residence of the Sultan, as well as the grand depot +for all piratical goods, is probably more of a mart than any of the +surrounding towns. In the months of March and April it is visited by +several Chinese junks, who remain trading until the beginning of the +month of August. If delayed after that time, they can scarcely return +in safety, being unable to contend with the boisterous weather and +head winds that then prevail in the Chinese seas. These junks are said +to come chiefly from Amoy, where the cottons, etc., best suited for +the Sulus are made. Their cargoes consist of a variety of articles of +Chinese manufacture and produce, such as silk, satin goods, cottons, +red and checked, grass-cloth clothing, handkerchiefs, cutlery, guns, +ammunition, opium, lumber, china and glass-ware, rice, sugar, oil, +lard, and butter. In return for this merchandise they obtain camphor, +birds' nests, rattans, bêche de mer, pearls, and pearl-shells, coco, +tortoise-shell, and wax; but there is no great quantity of these +articles to be obtained, perhaps not more than two or three cargoes +during the season. The trade requires great knowledge of the articles +purchased, for the Chinese and Sulus are both such adepts in fraud, +that great caution and circumspection are necessary. + +[Customs dues.] The duties on importation are not fixed, but are +changed and altered from time to time by the Ruma Bechara. The +following was stated to me as the necessary payments before trade +could be carried on: + + +A large ship, with Chinese on board, pays $2,000 +A large ship, without Chinese on board, pays 1,800 +Small ships 1,500 +Large brig 1,000 +Small brig 500 +Schooners from 150 to 400 + + +This supposes them all to have full cargoes. That a difference should +be made in a vessel with or without Chinamen, seems singular; but this, +I was told, arose from the circumstance that English vessels take them +on board, in order to detect and prevent the impositions of the Sulus. + +Vessels intending to trade at Soung should arrive before the Chinese +junks, and remain as long as they stay, or even a few days later. In +trading with the natives, all operations ought to be carried on for +cash, or if by barter, no delivery should be made until the articles +to be taken in exchange are received. In short, it is necessary to +deal with them as though they were undoubted rogues, and this pleases +them much more than to appear unsuspicious. Vessels that trade engage +a bazaar, which they hire of the Ruma Bechara, and it is advisable to +secure the good-will of the leading datus in that council by presents, +and paying them more for their goods than others. + +There are various other precautions necessary in dealing with +this people; for they will, if possible, so act as to give rise to +disputes, in which case an appeal is made to their fellows, who are +sure to decide against the strangers. Those who have been engaged +in this trade, advise that the prices of the goods should be fixed +upon before the Sultan, and the scales of the Datu of Soung employed; +for although these are quite faulty, the error is compensated by the +articles received being, weighed in the same. This also secures the +Datu's good-will, by the fee (some fifty dollars) which he receives +for the use of them. Thus it will be perceived that those who desire +to trade with Sulu, must make up their minds to encounter many +impositions, and to be continually watchful of their own interests. + +Every possible precaution ought to be taken; and it will be found, +the treatment will depend upon, or be according to the force or +resolution that is displayed. In justice to this people it must be +stated, there have been times when traders received every kindness and +attention at the island of Sulu, and I heard it even said, that many +vessels had gone there to refit; but during the last thirty or forty +years, the reigning sultans and their subjects have become hostile +to Europeans, of whom they plunder and destroy as many as they can, +and this they have hitherto been allowed to do with impunity. + +Although I have described the trade with Sulu as limited, yet +it is capable of greater extension; and had it not been for the +piratical habits of the people, the evil report of which has been +so widely spread, Sulu would now have been one of the principal +marts of the East. The most fertile parts of Borneo are subject to +its authority. There all the richest productions of these Eastern +seas grow in immense quantities, but are now left ungarnered in +consequence of there being no buyers. The cost of their cultivation +would be exceedingly low, and I am disposed to believe that these +articles could be produced here at a lower cost than anywhere else. + +Besides the trade with China, there is a very considerable one with +Manila in small articles, and I found one of our countrymen engaged +in this traffic, under the Spanish flag. To him I am indebted for +much information that his opportunities of observation had given him. + +The materials for the history of Sulu are meagre, and great doubt +seems to exist in some periods of it. That which I have been able to +gather is as follows: + +[History.] The island of Sulu is generally believed to have been +originally inhabited by Papuans, some of whom, as I have already +stated, are still supposed to inhabit the mountainous part. The first +intercourse had with them was by the Chinese, who went there in search +of pearls. The Orang Dampuwans were the first of the Malays to form +settlements on the islands; but after building towns, and making other +improvements, they abandoned the islands, in consequence, it is said, +of the inhabitants being a perfidious race, having previously to +their departure destroyed as many of the natives as they could. + +The fame of the submarine riches of this archipelago reached Banjar +or Borneo, the people of which were induced to resort there, and +finding it to equal their expectation, they sent a large colony, +and made endeavors to win over the inhabitants, and obtain thereby +the possession of their rich isle. In order to confirm the alliance, +a female of Banjarmassing, of great beauty, was sent, and married to +the principal chief; and from this alliance the sovereigns of Sulu +claim their descent. The treaty of marriage made Sulu tributary to +the Banjarmassing empire. + +After the Banjars had thus obtained possession of the archipelago, +the trade in its products attracted settlers from the surrounding +islands, who soon contrived to displace the aborigines, and drive +them to the inaccessible mountains for protection. + +When the Chinese took possession of the northern parts of Borneo, +under the Emperor Songtiping, about the year 1375, the daughter of that +prince was married to a celebrated Arabian chief named Sheriff Alli, +who visited the shores of Borneo in quest of commerce. The descendants +of this marriage extended their conquests not only over the Sulu +Archipelago, but over the whole of the Philippines, and rendered +the former tributary to Borneo. In three reigns after this event, +the sultan of Borneo proper married the daughter of a Sulu chief, and +from this union came Mirhome Bongsu, who succeeding to the throne while +yet a minor, his uncle acted as regent. Sulu now wished to throw off +the yoke of Borneo, and through the intrigues of the regent succeeded +in doing so, as well as in retaining possession of the eastern side +of Borneo, from Maludu Bay on the north, to Tulusyan on the south, +which has ever since been a part of the Sulu territory. + +This event took place before Islamism became the prevailing religion; +but which form of idolatry, the Sulus pretend, is not now known. It +is, however, believed the people on the coasts were Buddhists, while +those of the interior were Pagans. + +The first sultan of Sulu was Kamaludin, and during his reign one Sayed +Alli, a merchant, arrived at Sulu from Mecca. He was a sherif, and soon +converted one-half of the islanders to his own faith. He was elected +sultan on the death of Kamaludin, and reigned seven years, in the +course of which he became celebrated throughout the archipelago. Dying +at Sulu, a tomb was erected to him there, and the island came to be +looked upon by the faithful as the Mecca of the East, and continued +to be resorted to as a pilgrimage until the arrival of the Spaniards. + +[Tawi Tawi.] Sayed Alli left a son called Batua, who succeeded him. The +latter had two sons, named Sabudin and Nasarudin, who, on the death +of their father, made war upon each other. Nasarudin, the youngest, +being defeated, sought refuge on Tawi Tawi, where he established +himself, and built a fort for his protection. The difficulties +were finally compromised, and they agreed to reign together over +Sulu. Nasarudin had two sons, called Amir and Bantilan, of whom the +former was named as successor to the two brothers, and on their deaths +ascended the throne. During his reign another sherif arrived from +Mecca, who succeeded in converting the remainder of the population to +Islamism. Bantilan and his brother Amir finally quarrelled, and the +latter was driven from Sulu to seek refuge in the island of Basilan, +where he became sultan. + +On the arrival of the Spaniards in 1566, a kind of desultory war was +waged by them upon the various islands, in the hope of conquering +them and extending their religion. In these wars they succeeded in +gaining temporary possession of a part of Sulu, and destroyed the +tomb of Sayed Alli. The Spaniards always looked upon the conversion +of the Moslems to the true Catholic faith with great interest; but in +the year 1646, the sultan of Magindanao succeeded in making peace, +by the terms of which the Spaniards withdrew from Sulu, and were to +receive from the sultan three cargoes of rice annually as a tribute. + +In 1608, the small-pox made fearful ravages, and most of the +inhabitants fled from the scourge. Among these was the heir apparent, +during whose absence the throne became vacant, and another was elected +in his stead. This produced contention for a short time, which ended +in the elected maintaining his place. + +This tribute continued to be paid until the flight of Amir to Basilan, +about the year 1752, where he entered into a secret correspondence +with the authorities at Zamboanga, and after two years a vessel was +sent from Manila, which carried him to that capital, where he was +treated as a prisoner of state. + +[The English treaty.] In June, 1759, an English ship, on board of +which was Dalrymple, then in the service of the East India Company, +arrived at Sulu on a trading voyage. Dalrymple remained at Sulu +for three months, engaged in making sales and purchases. The Sultan +Bantilan treated him with great kindness, and sought the interest of +Dalrymple to obtain the liberation of his brother, who was now held +prisoner by the Spaniards at Manila, by telling him of the distress +of his brother's wife, who had been left behind when Amir quitted the +island, and had been delivered of twins, after he had been kidnapped +by the Spaniards. Dalrymple entered into a pledge to restore Amir, +and at the same time effected a commercial treaty between the East +India Company and the Sulu chiefs. By this it was stipulated that +an annual cargo should be sent to Sulu, and sold at one hundred per +cent. profit, for which a return cargo should be provided for the China +market, which should realize an equal profit there, after deducting all +expenses. The overplus, if any, was to be carried to the credit of the +Sulus. This appears to have been the first attempt made by the English +to secure a regular commercial intercourse with this archipelago. + +In the year 1760, a large fleet of Spanish vessels sailed from Manila, +with about two thousand men, having the Sultan Amir on board, to +carry on a war against Sulu. + +On their arrival, they began active operations. They were repelled +on all sides, and after seven days' ineffectual attempts, they gave +up their design. They returned to Manila, it is said, with a loss of +half their number, and without having done any injury to the Sulus. Not +discouraged with this failure, the Spaniards, about two years after, +organized a still larger force, which is estimated by some accounts as +high as ten thousand men. Although this failed in its attempts on the +fort at Soung, the Spaniards obtained possession of Tanjong Matonda, +one of the small ports on the island, where they erected a church and +fort. Here they established a colony, and appointed a governor. The +inhabitants upon this deserted their habitations in the neighborhood, +and fled to the mountains, which, it is said, excited the mountaineers, +a host of whom, with their chief, whose name was Sri Kala, determined +to rush upon the Spaniards, and annihilate them. Having to contend +against disciplined troops, it was not an easy task to succeed. But +Sri Kala had a follower, named Sigalo, who offered to lead the host +to battle against the Spaniards, and to exterminate them, or die in +the attempt. The chief accepted his offer, and Sigalo, with a chosen +few, marched towards the fort, leaving the rest of the mountaineers +in readiness to join them at an appointed signal, and rush into the +fort en masse. + +[Victory over Spaniards.] Sri Kala and Sigalo, in order to lull +the watchfulness of the Spaniards, took with them a young woman, of +exquisite beauty, named Purmassuri. The lustful Spaniards were thus +thrown off their guard, the signal was given, and the host, rushing +forward, entered the fort, every Spaniard within which was slain. A +few only, who were on the outside, escaped to the vessels, which set +sail, and after encountering various mishaps, returned to Manila. + +Some time after this the Sultan Bantilan died, and his son Alim-ud-deen +was proclaimed sultan. Dalrymple did not return until 1762, with a +part of the appointed cargo; but the vessel in which the larger part +had been shipped, failed to arrive, from not being able to find Sulu, +and went to China. Thence she proceeded to Manila, and afterwards +to Sulu. The captain of the latter vessel gave a new credit to the +Sulus, before they had paid for their first cargo; and on the arrival +of Dalrymple the next time, he found that the small-pox had carried +off a large number of the inhabitants, from which circumstance all +his hopes of profit were frustrated. He then obtained for the use of +the East India Company, a grant of the island of Balambangan, which +lies off the north end of Borneo, forming one side of the Straits of +Balabac, the western entrance to the Sulu Sea. Here he proposed to +establish a trading post, and after having visited Madras, he took +possession of this island in 1763. + +In October, 1762, the English took Manila, where the Sultan Amir +was found by Dalrymple, who engaged to reinstate him on his throne, +if he would cede to the English the north end of Borneo, as well +as the south end of Palawan. This he readily promised, and he was, +in consequence, carried back to Sulu and reinstated; his nephew, +Alim-ud-deen, readily giving place to him, and confirming the grant +to the East India Company, in which the Ruma Bechara joined. + +After various arrangements, the East India Company took possession of +Balambangan, in the year 1773, and formed a settlement there with a +view of making it an emporium of trade for Eastern commodities. Troops +and stores were sent from India, and the population began to increase +by settlers, both Chinese and Malays, who arrived in numbers. In the +year 1775, the fort, notwithstanding all the treaties and engagements +between Dalrymple and the Sultan, was surprised by the Sulus, and many +of the garrison put to death. [Victory over English.] This virtually +put an end to the plans of the English, although another attempt was +made to re-establish the settlement by Colonel Farquhar, in 1803; +but it was thought to be too expensive a post, and was accordingly +abandoned in the next year. This act of the Sulus fairly established +their character for perfidy, and ever since that transaction they +have been looked upon as treacherous in the highest degree, and, +what is singular, have been allowed to carry on their piracies quite +unmolested. The taking of Balambangan has been generally imputed to the +treacherous disposition and innate love of plunder among the Sulus, +as well as to their fear that it would destroy the trade of Sulu by +injuring all that of the archipelago. But there are strong reasons +for believing that this dark deed owed its origin in part to the +influence of the Spaniards and Dutch, who looked with much distrust +upon the growth of the rival establishment. Such was the jealousy +of the Spaniards, that the governor of the Philippines peremptorily +required that Balambangan should be evacuated. The Sulus boast of the +deed, and admit that they received assistance from both Zamboanga and +Ternate, the two nearest Spanish and Dutch ports. These nations had +great reasons to fear the establishment of a power like that of the +East India Company, in a spot so favorably situated to secure the +trade of the surrounding islands, possessing fine harbors, and in +every way adapted to become a great commercial depot. Had it been +held by the East India Company but for a few years, it must have +become what Singapore is now. + +The original planner of this settlement is said to have been Lord +Pigot; but the merit of carrying it forward was undoubtedly due to +Dalrymple, whose enterprising mind saw the advantage of the situation, +and whose energy was capable of carrying the project successfully +forward. + +Since the capture of Balambangan, there has been no event in the +history of Sulu that has made any of the reigns of the Sultans +memorable, although fifteen have since ascended the throne. + +Sulu has from all the accounts very much changed in its character +as well as population since the arrival of the Spaniards, and the +establishment of their authority in the Philippines. Before that +event, some accounts state that the trade with the Chinese was +of great extent, and that from four to five hundred junks arrived +annually from Cambojia, with which Sulu principally traded. At that +time the population is said to have equalled in density that of the +thickly-settled parts of China. + +The government has also undergone a change; for the Sultan, who +among other Malay races is usually despotic, is here a mere cipher, +and the government has become an oligarchy. This change has probably +been brought about by the increase of the privileged class of Datus, +all of whom were entitled to a seat in the Ruma Bechara until about +the year 1810, when the great inconvenience of so large a council +was felt, and it became impossible to control it without great +difficulty and trouble on the part of the Sultan. The Ruma Bechara +was then reduced until it contained but six of the principal Datus, +who assumed the power of controlling the state. The Ruma Bechara, +however, in consequence of the complaints of many powerful Datus, +was enlarged; but the more powerful, and those who have the largest +numerical force of slaves, still rule over its deliberations. The whole +power, within the last thirty years, has been usurped by one or two +Datus, who now have monopolized the little foreign trade that comes +to these islands. The Sultan has the right to appoint his successor, +and generally names him while living. In default of this, the choice +devolves upon the Ruma Bechara, who elect by a majority. + +[Piracies] From a more frequent intercourse with Europeans and the +discovery of new routes through these seas, the opportunities of +committing depredations have become less frequent, and the fear of +detection greater. By this latter motive they are more swayed than +by any thing else, and if the Sulus have ever been bold and daring +robbers on the high seas, they have very much changed. + +Many statements have been made and published relative to the piracies +committed in these seas, which in some cases exceed, and in others +fall short, of the reality. Most of the piratical establishments are +under the rule, or sail under the auspices of the Sultan and Ruma +Bechara of Sulu, who are more or less intimately connected with +them. The share of the booty that belongs to the Sultan and Ruma +Bechara is twenty-five per cent. on all captures, whilst the Datus +receive a high price for the advance they make of guns and powder, +and for the services of their slaves. + +The following are the piratical establishments of Sulu, obtained +from the most authentic sources, published as well as verbal. The +first among these is the port of Soung, at which we anchored, in +the island of Sulu; not so much from the number of men available +here for this pursuit, as the facility of disposing of the goods. By +the Spaniards they are denominated Illanun or Lanuns pirates. [273] +There are other rendezvous on Pulo Toolyan, at Bohol, Tonho, Pilas, +Tawi Tawi, Sumlout, Pantutaran, Parodasan, Palawan, and Basilan, +and Tantoli on Celebes. These are the most noted, but there are many +minor places, where half a dozen prahus are fitted out. Those of Sulu, +and those who go under the name of the Lanuns, have prahus of larger +size, and better fitted. They are from twenty to thirty tons burden, +and are propelled by both sails and oars. They draw but little water, +are fast sailers, and well adapted for navigating through these +dangerous seas. These pirates are supposed to possess in the whole +about two hundred prahus, which usually are manned with from forty to +fifty pirates; the number therefore engaged in this business, may be +estimated at ten thousand. They are armed with muskets, blunderbusses, +krises, hatchets, and spears, and at times the vessels have one or two +large guns mounted. They infest the Macassar Strait, the Celebes Sea, +and the Sulu Sea. Soung is the only place where they can dispose of +their plunder to advantage, and obtain the necessary outfits. It may +be called the principal resort of these pirates, where well-directed +measures would result in effectually suppressing the crime. + +Besides the pirates of Sulu, the commerce of the eastern islands is +vexed with other piratical establishments. In the neighboring seas, +there are the Malay pirates, who have of late years become exceedingly +troublesome. Their prahus are of much smaller size than those of Sulu, +being from ten to twelve tons burden, but in proportion they are much +better manned, and thus are enabled to ply with more efficiency their +oars or paddles. These prahus frequent the shores of Malacca Straits, +Cape Roumania, the Carimon Isles, and the neighboring straits, and +at times they visit the Rhio Straits. Some of the most noted, I was +informed, were fitted out from Johore, in the very neighborhood of +the English authorities at Singapore; they generally have their haunts +on the small islands on the coast, from which they make short cruises. + +They are noted for their arrangements for preventing themselves +from receiving injury, in the desperate defences that are sometimes +made against them. These small prahus have usually swivels mounted, +which, although not of great calibre, are capable of throwing a shot +beyond the range of small-arms. It is said that they seldom attempt +an attack unless the sea is calm, which enables them to approach their +victims with more assurance of success, on account of the facility with +which they are enabled to manage their boats. The frequent calms which +occur in these seas between the land and sea breezes, afford them many +opportunities of putting their villanous plans in operation; and the +many inlets and islets, with which they are well acquainted, afford +places of refuge and ambush, and for concealing their booty. They +are generally found in small flotillas of from six to twenty prahus, +and when they have succeeded in disabling a vessel at long shot, the +sound of the gong is the signal for boarding, which, if successful, +results in a massacre more or less bloody, according to the obstinacy +of the resistance they have met with. + +In the winter months, the Malacca Straits are most infested with them; +and during the summer, the neighborhood of Singapore, Point Rumania, +and the channels in the vicinity. In the spring, from February to +May, they are engaged in procuring their supplies, in fishing, and +refitting their prahus for the coming year. + +[Suppression of pirates.] I have frequently heard plans proposed +for the suppression of these pirates, particularly of those in the +neighborhood of the settlements under British rule. The European +authorities are much to blame for the quiescent manner in which they +have so long borne these depredations, and many complaints are made +that Englishmen, on being transplanted to India, lose that feeling of +horror for deeds of blood, such as are constantly occurring at their +very doors, which they would experience in England. There are, however, +many difficulties to overcome before operations against the pirates +can be effective. The greatest of these is the desire of the English +to secure the good-will of the chiefs of the tribes by whom they are +surrounded. They thus wink at their piracies on the vessels of other +nations, or take no steps to alleviate the evils of slavery. Indeed +the language that one hears from many intelligent men who have +long resided in that part of the world is, that in no country where +civilization exists does slavery exhibit so debasing a form as in her +Indian possessions. Another difficulty consists in the want of minute +knowledge of the coasts, inlets, and hiding-places of the pirates, and +this must continue to exist until proper surveys are made. This done, +it would be necessary to employ vessels that could pursue the pirates +everywhere, for which purpose steamers naturally suggest themselves. + +What will appear most extraordinary is, that the very princes who +are enjoying the stipend for the purchase of the site whereon the +English authority is established, are believed to be the most active +in equipping the prahus for these piratical expeditions; yet no notice +is taken of them, although it would be so easy to control them by +withholding payment until they had cleared themselves from suspicion, +or by establishing residents in their chief towns. + +[The Bajows.] Another, and a very different race of natives who +frequent the Sulu Archipelago, must not be passed by without +notice. These are the Bajow divers or fishermen, to whom Sulu is +indebted for procuring the submarine treasures with which her seas +are stored. They are also very frequently employed in the bêche de +mer or trepang fisheries among the islands to the south. The Bajows +generally look upon Macassar as their principal place of resort. They +were at one time believed to be derived from Johore, on the Malayan +peninsula; at another, to be Buguese; but they speak the Sulu dialect, +and are certainly derived from some of the neighboring islands. The +name of Bajows, in their tongue, means fishermen. From all accounts, +they are allowed to pursue their avocations in peace, and are not +unfrequently employed by the piratical datus, and made to labor for +them. They resort to their fishing-grounds in fleets of between one +and two hundred sail, having their wives and children with them, +and in consequence of the tyranny of the Sulus, endeavor to place +themselves under the protection of the flag of Holland, by which +nation this useful class of people is encouraged. The Sulu Seas are +comparatively little frequented by them, as they are unable to dispose +of the produce of their fisheries for want of a market, and fear the +exactions of the Datus. Their prahus are about five tons each. The +Bajows at some islands are stationary, but are for the most part +constantly changing their ground. The Spanish authorities in the +Philippines encourage them, it is said, to frequent their islands, +as without them they would derive little benefit from the banks in +the neighboring seas, where quantities of pearl-oysters are known +to exist, which produce pearls of the finest kind. The Bajows are +inoffensive and very industrious, and in faith Mahomedans. + +The climate of Sulu during our short stay, though warm, was +agreeable. The time of our visit was in the dry season, which lasts +from October till April, and alternates with the wet one, from May +till September. June and July are the windy months, when strong +breezes blow from the westward. In the latter part of August and +September, strong gales are felt from the south, while in December +and January the winds are found to come from the northward; but light +winds usually prevail from the southwest during the wet season, and +from the opposite quarter, the dry, following closely the order of the +monsoons in the China seas. As to the temperature, the climate is very +equable, the thermometer seldom rising above 90° or falling below 70°. + +Diseases are few, and those that prevail arise from the manner in +which the natives live. They are from that cause an unhealthy-looking +race. The small-pox has at various times raged with great violence +throughout the group, and they speak of it with great dread. Few of +the natives appeared to be marked with it, which may have been owing, +perhaps, to their escaping this disorder for some years. Vaccination +has not yet been introduced among them, nor have they practiced +inoculation. + +Notwithstanding Soung was once the Mecca of the East, its people +have but little zeal for the Mahomedan faith. It was thought at once +time that they had almost forgotten its tenets, in consequence of +the neglect of all their religious abservances. The precepts which +they seem to regard most are that of abstaining from swine's flesh, +and that of being circumcised. Although polygamy is not interdicted, +few even of the datus have more than one wife. + +Soung Road offers good anchorage; and supplies of all kinds may be +had in abundance. Beef is cheap, and vegetables and fruits at all +seasons plenty. + +Our observations placed the town in latitude 6° 01' N., longitude 120° +55' 51'' E. + +Having concluded the treaty and other business that had taken me to +Sulu, we took our departure for the Straits of Balabac, the western +entrance into this sea, with a fine breeze to the eastward. By +noon we had reached the group of Pangootaaraang, consisting of five +small islands. All of these are low, covered with trees, and without +lagoons. They presented a great contrast to Sulu, which was seen behind +us in the distance. The absence of the swell of the ocean in sailing +through this sea is striking, and gives the idea of navigating an +extensive bay, on whose luxuriant islands no surf breaks. There are, +however, sources of danger that incite the navigator to watchfulness +and constant anxiety; the hidden shoals and reefs, and the sweep of +the tide, which leave him no control over his vessel. + +[Cagayan Sulu.] Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, we +sounded every twenty minutes, but found no bottom; and at daylight +on the 7th, we made the islands of Cagayan Sulu, in latitude 7° 03' +30'' N., longitude 118° 37' E. The tide or current was passing the +islands to the west-southwest, three quarters of a mile per hour; +we had soundings of seventy-five fathoms. Cagayan Sulu has a pleasant +appearance from the sea, and may be termed a high island. It is less +covered with undergrowth and mangrove-bushes than the neighboring +islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. It has fallen off in +importance; and by comparing former accounts with those I received, +and from its present aspect, it would seem that it has decreased +both in population and products. Its caves formerly supplied a large +quantity of edible birds' nests; large numbers of cattle were to be +found upon it; and its cultivation was carried on to some extent. These +articles of commerce are not so much attended to at the present time, +and the bêche de mer and tortoise-shell, formerly brought hither, +are now carried to other places. There is a small anchorage on the +west side, but we did not visit it. There are no dangers near these +small islands that may not be guarded against. Our survey extended +only to their size and situation, as I deemed it my duty to devote +all the remainder of the time I had to spare to the Balabac Straits. + +[Balabac straits.] After the night set in, we continued sounding +every ten minutes, and occasionally got bottom in from thirty to +seventy fathoms. At midnight, the water shoaled to twenty fathoms, +when I dropped the anchor until daylight. We shortly afterwards had +a change of wind, and a heavy squall passed over us. + +In the morning we had no shoal ground near us, and the bank on which +we had anchored was found to be of small size; it is probable that +we had dropped the anchor on the shoalest place. Vessels have nothing +to fear in this respect. + +At 9:00 a.m. of the 8th, we made the Mangsee Islands ahead of us, and +likewise Balabac to the north, and Balambagan to the south. Several +sand-banks and extensive reefs were also seen between them. On seeing +the ground on which we had to operate, of which the published charts +give no idea whatever, I determined to proceed, and take a central +position with the ship under the Mangsee Islands; but in order not to +lose time, I hoisted out and dropped two boats, under Lieutenant Perry, +to survey the first sand-bank we came to, which lies a few miles to +the eastward of these islands, with orders to effect this duty and join +me at the anchorage, or find a shelter under the lee of the islands. + +At half-past two p.m. we anchored near the reef, in thirty-six fathoms +water. I thought myself fortunate in getting bottom, as the reefs on +closing with them seemed to indicate but little appearance of it. + +The rest of the day was spent in preparing the boats for our +operations. I now felt the want of the tender. Although in the absence +of this vessel, great exposure was necessary to effect this survey, +I found both officers and men cheerful and willing. The parties were +organized,--the first to proceed to the north, towards Balabac Island, +to survey the intermediate shoals and reefs, under Lieutenant Emmons +and Mr. Totten; the second to the south, under Lieutenants Perry and +Budd; and Mr. Hammersly for the survey of the shoals of Balambangan and +Banguey, and their reefs. The examination of the Mangsee Islands, and +the reefs adjacent, with the astronomical and magnetic observations, +etc., devolved on myself and those who remained on board the ship. + +The weather was watched with anxiety, and turned out disagreeable, +heavy showers and strong winds prevailing; notwithstanding, the +boats were despatched, after being as well protected against it as +possible. We flattered ourselves that these extensive reefs would +produce a fine harvest of shells; but, although every exertion +was made in the search, we did not add as many to our collections +as we anticipated. Some land-shells, however, were found that we +little expected to meet with, for many of the trees were covered +with them, and on cutting them down, large quantities were easily +obtained. Mr. Peale shot several birds, among which was a Nicobar +pigeon; some interesting plants and corals were also added. On the +island a large quantity of drift-wood was found, which with that +which is growing affords ample supplies of fuel for ships. No fresh +water is to be had, except by digging, the island being but a few +feet above high-water mark. + +Although the time was somewhat unfavorable, Lieutenant Emmons and +party executed their orders within the time designated, and met with no +other obstructions than the inclemency of the weather. This was not, +however, the case with Lieutenant Perry, who, near a small beach on +the island of Balambangan, encountered some Sulus, who were disposed +to attack him. The natives, no doubt, were under the impression that +the boats were from some shipwrecked vessel. They were all well armed, +and apparently prepared to take advantage of the party if possible; +but, by the prudence and forbearance of this officer, collision was +avoided, and his party saved from an attack. + +[Balambangan.] The island of Balambangan was through the +instrumentality of Mr. Dalrymple, as heretofore stated, obtained +from the Sulus for a settlement and place of deposit, by the East +India Company, who took possession of it in 1773. Its situation off +the northern end of Borneo, near the fertile district of that island, +its central position, and its two fine ports, offered great advantages +for commerce, and for its becoming a great entrepot for the riches +of this archipelago. Troops, and stores of all kinds, were sent +from India; numbers of Chinese and Malays were induced to settle; +and Mr. Herbert, one of the council of Bencoolen, was appointed +governor. It had been supposed to be a healthy place, as the island +was elevated, and therefore probably free from malaria; but in 1775 +the native troops from India became much reduced from sickness, and +the post consequently much weakened. This, with the absence of the +cruisers from the harbor, afforded a favorable opportunity for its +capture; and the wealth that it was supposed to contain created an +inducement that proved too great for the hordes of marauding pirates +to resist. Choosing their time, they rushed upon the sentries, put +them to death, took possession of the guns, and turned them against +the garrison, only a few of whom made their escape on board of a small +vessel. The booty in goods and valuables was said to have been very +large, amounting to nearly four hundred thousand pounds sterling. + +Although Borneo offers many inducements to commercial enterprise, +the policy of the Dutch Company has shut themselves out, as well +as others, by interdicting communication. In consequence, except +through indirect channels, there has been no information obtained of +the singular and unknown inhabitants of its interior. This, however, +is not long destined to be the case. + +Mr. Brooke, an English gentleman of fortune, has, since our passage +through these seas, from philanthropic motives, made an agreement +with the rajah of Sarawack, on the northern and western side of +Borneo, to cede to him the administration of that portion of the +island. This arrangement it is believed the British government will +confirm, in which event Sarawack will at once obtain an importance +among the foreign colonies, in the Eastern seas, second only to that +of Singapore. + +The principal inducement that has influenced Mr. Brooke in this +undertaking is the interest he feels in the benighted people of the +interior, who are known under the name of Dyack, and of whom some +extraordinary accounts have been given. + +A few of these, which I have procured from reputable sources, I will +now relate, in order that it may be seen among what kind of people +this gentleman has undertaken to introduce the arts of civilization. + +[The Dyacks.] The Dyacks are, by all accounts, a fine race, and +much the most numerous of any inhabiting Borneo. They are almost +exclusively confined to the interior, where they enjoy a fine climate, +and all the spontaneous productions of the tropics. They are believed +to be the aborigines of the island. The name of Dyack seems to be +more particularly applied to those who live in the southern section +of Borneo. To the north they are called Idaan or Tirun, and those so +termed are best known to the Sulus, or the inhabitants of that part of +the coast of Borneo over which the Sulus rule. In personal appearance, +the Dyacks are slender, have higher foreheads than the Malays, and are +a finer and much better-looking people. Their hair is long, straight, +and coarse, though it is generally cropped short round the head. The +females are spoken of as being fair and handsome, and many of those +who have been made slaves are to be seen among the Malays. + +In manners the Dyacks are described as simple and mild, yet they are +characterized by some of the most uncommon and revolting customs of +barbarians. Their government is very simple; the elders in each village +for the most part rule; but they are said to have chiefs that do not +differ from the Malay rajahs. They wear no clothing except the maro, +and many of them are tattooed, with a variety of figures, over their +body. They live in houses built of wood, that are generally of large +size, and frequently contain as many as one hundred persons. These +houses are usually built on piles, divided into compartments, and +have a kind of veranda in front, which serves as a communication +between the several families. The patriarch, or elder, resides in +the middle. The houses are entered by ladders, and have doors, but +no windows. The villages are protected by a sort of breastwork. + +Although this people are to be found throughout all Borneo, and even +within a few miles of the coast, yet they do not occupy any part of +its shores, which are held by Malays, or Chinese settlers. There +is no country more likely to interest the world than Borneo. All +accounts speak of vast ruins of temples and palaces, throughout the +whole extent of its interior, which the ancestors of the present +inhabitants could not have constructed. The great resemblance these +bear to those of China and Cambojia has led to the belief that Borneo +was formerly peopled by those nations; but all traditions of the origin +of these edifices have been lost; and so little is now known of the +northern side of Borneo, that it would be presumption to indulge in any +surmises of what may have been its state during these dark ages. Even +the Bugis priests, who are the best-informed persons in the country, +have no writings or traditions that bear upon the subject; and the +few scattered legends of Eastern origin, can afford no proof of the +occurrence of the events they commemorate in any particular locality. + +The accounts of the habits of the Dyacks are discrepant. Some give them +credit for being very industrious, while others again speak of them +as indolent. They are certainly cultivators of the soil, and in order +to obtain the articles they need, will work assiduously. Many of them +are employed in collecting gold-dust, and some in the diamond mines; +and they will at times be found procuring gums, rattans, etc., from +their native forests for barter. They are a people of great energy +of character, and perseverance in the attainment of their object, +particularly when on war-parties, or engaged in hunting. + +Their food consists of rice, hogs, rats, snakes, monkeys, and many +kinds of vermin, with which this country abounds. + +Their chief weapon is the parang or heavy knife, somewhat like the +kris. It is manufactured of native iron and steel, with which the +coast of the country is said to abound. They have a method of working +it which renders it unnecessary for them to look to a foreign supply; +the only articles of foreign hardware that they are said to desire, +are razors, out of which to make their cockspurs. One thing seems +strange: although asserted upon good authority, that the iron and +steel of the coast are thought to be superior by foreigners, they +are not to be compared with that which is found in the interior, +and manufactured by the Dyacks. All the best krises used by the Malay +rajahs and chiefs, are obtained from the interior. Some of these are +exquisitely manufactured, and so hard that, without turning the edge, +they cut ordinary wrought iron and steel. + +Among their other weapons is the sumpit, a hollow tube, through +which they blow poisoned arrows. The latter are of various kinds, +and those used in war are dipped in the sap of what the natives term +the "upo." The effect of this poison is almost instantaneous, and +destroys life in four or five minutes. Those who have seen a wound +given accidentally, describe the changes that the poison occasions +as plainly perceptible in its progress. Before using the arrow, its +poisoned point is dipped in lime-juice to quicken it. The range of +the sumpit is from fifty to sixty yards. Although the arrows are +poisoned, yet it is said they sometimes eat the games they kill +with them, parboiling it before it is roasted, which is thought to +extract the poison. Firearms, respecting which they have much fear, +have not yet been introduced among them; indeed, it is said that so +easily are they intimidated by such weapons, that on hearing a report +of a gun they invariably run away. Each individual in a host would +be impressed with the belief that he was the one that was to be shot. + +[The diwatas.] They address their prayers to the maker of the world, +whom they call Dewatta, and this is all the religion they have. There +are many animals and birds held by them in high veneration, and they +are close observers of the flight of birds, from which they draw +prognostics. There is in particular a white-headed eagle or kite, upon +whose flight and cries they put great reliance, and consult them in war +or on any particular expedition. For this purpose they draw numbers +of them together, and feed them by scattering rice about. It is said +their priests consult their entrails also on particular occasions, +to endeavor to look into future events. + +In the performance of their engagements and oaths, they are most +scrupulous. They seem to have some idea of a future life, and that +on the road to their elysium they have to pass over a long tree, +which requires the assistance of all those they have slain in this +world. The abode of happy spirits is supposed to be on the top of Kini +Balu, one of their loftiest mountains, and the portals are guarded +by a fiery serpent, who does not suffer any virgin to pass into the +celestial paradise. + +Polygamy does not exist among them, but they have as concubines slaves, +who are captured in their wars or rather predatory expeditions. If a +wife proves unfaithful to her husband, he kills several of his slaves, +or inflicts upon her many blows, and a divorce may be effected by +the husband paying her a certain price, and giving up her clothes and +ornaments, after which he is at liberty to marry another. The women, +however, exercise an extraordinary influence over the men. + +[Headhunting.] But of all their peculiar traits, there is none more +strange than the passion they seem to indulge for collecting human +heads. These are necessary accompaniments in many transactions of +their lives, particularly in their marriages, and no one can marry +unless he has a certain number of heads; indeed, those who cannot +obtain these are looked upon with disdain by the females. A young man +wishing to wed, and making application to marry her for whom he has +formed an attachment, repairs with the girl's father to the rajah +or chief, who immediately inquires respecting the number of heads +he has procured, and generally decides that he ought to obtain one +or two more, according to his age, and the number the girl's father +may have procured, before he can be accepted. He at once takes his +canoe and some trusty followers, and departs on his bloody errand, +waylaying the unsuspecting or surprising the defenceless, whose head +he immediately cuts off, and then makes a hurried retreat. With this +he repairs to the dwelling of his mistress, or sends intelligence +of his success before him. On his arrival, he is met by a joyous +group of females, who receive him with every demonstration of joy, +and gladly accept his ghastly offering. + +Various barbarous ceremonies now take place, among which the heads +undergo inspection to ascertain if they are fresh; and, in order to +prove this, none of the brain must be removed, nor must they have been +submitted to smoke to destroy the smell. After these preliminaries, +the family honor of the bride is supposed to be satisfied, and she is +not allowed to refuse to marry. A feast is now made, and the couple +are seated in the midst naked, holding the bloody heads, when handfuls +of rice are thrown over them, with prayers that they may be happy and +fruitful. After this, the bridegroom repairs in state to the house of +the bride, where he is received at the door by one of her friends, +who sprinkles him with the blood of a cock, and her with that of a +hen. This completes the affair, and they are man and wife. + +[Cremation.] Funerals are likewise consecrated by similar offerings, +the corpse remaining in the house until a slave can be procured, +by purchase or otherwise, whom they design to behead at the time the +body is burnt. This is done in order that the defunct may be attended +by a slave on his way to the other world or realms of bliss. After +being burnt, the ashes of the deceased are gathered in an urn, and +the head of the slave preserved and placed near it. + +In some parts, a rajah or chief is buried with great pomp in his war +habiliments, and food and his arms are placed at his side. A mound +is erected over him, which is encircled with a bamboo fence, upon +which a number of fresh heads are stuck, all the warriors who have +been attached to him bringing them as the most acceptable offering; +and subsequently these horrid offerings are renewed. + +The Dyacks are found also in the Celebes island, but there, as in +Borneo, they are confined to the interior. I have already mentioned +that they were supposed to have been the original inhabitants of the +Sulu Archipelago. The Sulus speak of the country of the Dyacks as +being exceedingly fertile and capable of producing every thing. The +north end of Borneo is particularly valuable, as its produce is easily +transported from the interior, where much of the land is cultivated. I +have obtained much more information in relation to this people, in +a variety of ways, from individuals as well as from the published +accounts, which are to be found at times in the Eastern prints; but +as this digression has already extended to a great length, I trust +that enough has been said to enable the reader to contrast it with +the natives who inhabit the islands that dot the vast Pacific Ocean, +and to make him look forward with interest to the developments that +the philanthropic exertions of Mr. Brooke may bring to light. + +Having completed our duties here, the boats were hoisted in, after +despatching one to leave orders for Mr. Knox of the Flying-Fish, +in a bottle tied to a flagstaff. + +On the afternoon of the 12th, we got under way to proceed direct to +Singapore, and passed through the channel between the reef off the +Mangsee Islands, and those of Balambangan and Banguey. We found this +channel clear, and all the dangers well defined. + +As the principal objects of my visit were to ascertain the disposition +and resources of the Sulus for trade, and to examine the straits +leading into the Sulu seas, in order to facilitate the communication +with China, by avoiding on the one hand the eastern route, and on +the other the dangers of the Palawan Passage, it may be as well to +give the result of the latter inquiry, referring those who may be +more particularly interested to the Hydrographical Atlas and Memoir. + +The difficulties in the Palawan Passage arising from heavy seas +and fresh gales do not exist in the Sulu Sea, nor are the shoals so +numerous or so dangerous. In the place of storms and rough water, +smooth seas are found, and for most of the time moderate breezes, +which do not subject a vessel to the wear and tear experienced in +beating up against a monsoon. + +The Balabac Straits may be easily reached, either from Singapore, +or by beating up along the western shore of Borneo. When the straits +are reached, a vessel by choosing her time may easily pass through +them by daylight, even by beating when the wind is ahead. Once +through, the way is clear, with the exception of a few coral lumps; +the occasional occurrence of the north wind will enable a vessel to +pass directly to the shores of the island of Panay. A fair wind will +ordinarily prevail along the island, and, as I have already mentioned, +it may be approached closely. The passage through to the eastward of +Mindoro Island may be taken in preference to that on the west side +through the Mindoro Strait, and thus all the reefs and shoals will +be avoided. Thence, the western coast of Luzon will be followed to +the north, as in the old route. + +I do not think it necessary to point out any particular route through +the Sulu Sea, as vessels must be guided chiefly as the winds blow, +but I would generally avoid approaching the Sulu Islands, as the +currents are more rapid, and set rather to the southward. Wherever +there is anchorage, it would be advisable to anchor at night, as much +time might thus be saved, and a knowledge of the currents or sets +of the tides obtained. Perhaps it would be as well to caution those +who are venturesome, that it is necessary to keep a good look-out, +and those who are timid, that there does not appear to be much danger +from the piratical prahus, unless a vessel gets on shore; in that +case it will not be long before they will be seen collecting in the +horizon in large numbers. + +[Advantages of Sulu treaty.] The treaty that I made with the Sultan, if +strictly enforced on the first infraction, will soon put an end to all +the dangers to be apprehended from them. To conclude, I am satisfied +that under ordinary circumstances, to pass through the Sulu Sea will +shorten by several days the passage to Manila or Canton, and be a +great saving of expense in the wear and tear of a ship and her canvass. + +On the 13th, we passed near the location of the Viper Shoal, but saw +nothing of it. It is, therefore, marked doubtful on the chart. As +I had but little time to spare, the look-outs were doubled, and we +pursued our course throughout the night, sounding as we went every +fifteen minutes; but nothing met our view. + +On the 14th, although we had the northeast monsoon blowing fresh, we +experienced a current of twenty-two miles setting to the north. This +was an unexpected result, as the currents are usually supposed +to prevail in the direction of the monsoon. On the 15th. we still +experienced it, though not over fifteen miles. On the 16th, we found +it setting west, and as we approached the Malayan Peninsula it was +found to be running southwest. + +On the 18th, we made Pulo Aor and Pulo Pedang, and arriving off the +Singapore Straits, I hove-to, to await daylight. In the morning at +dawn, we found ourselves in close company with a Chinese junk. The +19th, until late in the afternoon, we were in the Singapore Straits, +making but slow progress towards this emporium of the East. The number +of native as well as foreign vessels which we passed, proved that we +were approaching some great mart, and at 5:00 p.m. we dropped our +anchor in Singapore Roads. Here we found the Porpoise, Oregon, and +Flying-Fish, all well: the two former had arrived on January 22nd, +nearly a month before, and the latter three days previously. Before +concluding this chapter, I shall revert to their proceedings since +our separation off the Sandwich Islands. + +The instructions to the brigs have been heretofore given; but it may +not be amiss to repeat here that the object in detaching them was, +that they might explore the line of reefs and islands known to exist to +the northward and westward of the Hawaiian Group, and thence continue +their course towards the coast of Japan. Had they effected the latter +object, it would have given important results in relation to the force +of the currents, and the temperature of the water. It was desirable, +if possible, to ascertain with certainty the existence on the coast of +Japan of a current similar to the Gulf Stream, to which my attention +had been particularly drawn. + +The first land they made was on December 1, 1841, and was Necker +Island. Birds, especially the white tern, had been seen in numbers +prior to its announcement. Necker Island is apparently a mass of +volcanic rocks, about three hundred feet high, and is destitute of +any kind of vegetation, but covered with guano. It is surrounded by +a reef, three miles from which soundings were obtained, in twenty +fathoms water. The furious surf that was beating on all sides of the +island, precluded all possibility of a landing being made. By the +connected observations of the vessels it lies in longitude 164° 37' +W., and latitude 23° 44' N. + +The French-Frigate Shoal was seen on the 3rd; the weather proved bad, +and they were unable to execute the work of examining this reef. The +sea was breaking furiously upon it. + +On the 7th, the Maro Reef was made in latitude 25° 24' 29'' N., +longitude 170° 43' 24'' W. Bottom was found at a distance of four +miles from the reef, with forty-five fathoms of line. On the 8th, +they passed over the site of Neva Isle, as laid down by Arrowsmith, +but no indications of land were seen. + +[Arrival at Singapore.] On the 11th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold +determined, on account of the condition of the brigs, and the +continuance of bad weather, it was impossible to keep their course to +the northward and westward towards the coast of Japan; he, therefore, +hauled to the southward, which was much to be regretted, and followed +so very nearly in the same track as that pursued by the Vincennes, +towards the China seas, that nothing new was elicited by them. + +After a passage of fifty-six days from the Sandwich Islands, they +dropped their anchors in Singapore on January 19, 1842, all well. Here +they found the United States ship Constellation, Commodore Kearney, and +the sloop of war Boston, Captain Long, forming the East India squadron. + + + +PART IV + +Manila in 1819 [274] + +By An American Naval Officer. + +[Coral.] " * * * The fine bay of Manila, thirty leagues in +circumference, is situated near the middle of the west side of the +island, and has good and clear anchorage in all parts of it, excepting +on a coral ledge, called the Shoal of St. Nicholas, which is the only +visible danger in the bay. The dangerous part of it is, however, of +small extent, and with proper attention easily avoided; the least +of water found on it at present is eleven feet, but its summit is +constantly approaching the surface of the sea, as has been ascertained +by surveys made at different periods by orders of government, which +circumstance seems to indicate the presence of Zoophytes, that compound +of animal and vegetable life, whose incessant and rapid labors, and, +as we are told by naturalists, whose polypus-like powers of receiving +perfect form and vitality into numberless dismembered portions of their +bodies, have long excited much curiosity and admiration. These small, +compound animals, commence their operations at the bottom of the sea, +and proceed upwards, towards the surface, spreading themselves in +various ramifications; the older members of the mass become concrete, +petrify, and form dangerous shoals; the superior portion of these +little colonists always being the last produced, in its turn generates +myriads of others, and so on, ad infinitum, till they reach the surface +of the ocean. These coral reefs and shoals are found in most parts of +the world, within the tropics; but the waters of the eastern hemisphere +seem to be peculiarly congenial to their production, and, indeed, there +appear to be certain spaces or regions in these seas, which are their +favorite haunts. Among many others may be mentioned the Mozambique +channel, and that tract of ocean, from the eastern coast of Africa, +quite across to the coast of Malabar, including the Mahé, Chagas, +Maldive and Laccadive archipelagos; the southeastern part of the China +sea; the Red sea; the eastern part of Java; the coasts of all the Sunda +islands; and various places in the Pacific ocean. These shoals, when +they begin to emerge from the sea, are frequented by aquatic fowls, +whose feathers, and other deposits, combined with the fortuitous +landing of drifts of wood, weeds, and various other substances from +the adjacent lands, in the course of time form superaqueous banks, +of considerable elevation; and the broken fragments of coral thrown +up by the waves, slowly, but constantly increase their horizontal +diameter. Coconuts are frequently seen floating upon the sea in these +regions, some of which are no doubt thrown upon the shores of the +new created lands; from which accidental circumstance this fruit is +there propagated. Vagrant birds unconsciously deposit the germs of +various other productions of the vegetable kingdom, which in due +season spring up and clothe their surfaces with verdure; and the +natural accumulation of dead and putrid vegetation serves to assist +in the formation of a rich and productive soil, and to increase the +altitudes of these new creations. As I have been always much amused +and interested by this subject, and had frequent opportunities, +during many years' experience, to observe and examine these shoals in +their various stages of subaqueous progress, and subsequent emersion +I am convinced that not only many considerable islands, but extensive +insular groups, owe their existence to the above origin." + +[The people.] [275]"* * * The natives of these islands are generally +well made, and bear strong marks of activity and muscular vigor; +they are in general somewhat larger than the Javanese, and bear some +affinity in the features of their faces to the Malays; their noses +are however more prominent, and their cheek bones not so high, nor are +their skins so dark. Their hair is of a jet black, made glossy by the +constant application of coconut oil, as is the custom in all India, +and drawn together and knotted on top, in the manner of the Malays. The +women display great taste in the arrangement and decorations of their +hair, which they secure with silver or gold bodkins, the heads of +which are frequently composed of precious stones." + +[Mixed blood.] [276]"* * * A very considerable proportion of the +population of Manila is composed of the mestizos; they are the +offspring of the intermarriages of the Spaniards with the native +women, and these again forming connexions with the whites, or with +the native Indians (the latter, however, less frequent), combine +in stamping upon their descendants a great variety of features and +shades of color; a general resemblance is, however, to be traced, and +waiving color and manners, a mestizo could not easily be mistaken for +a native. This class of the inhabitants is held in nearly the same +estimation as the whites. They are very cleanly in their persons, +and neat in their dress, which, among the males, consists generally +of a pair of cotton trousers of various colors, as fancy dictates, +and shoes in the European manner, a frock, or tunic, of striped grass +manufacture, worn outside the trousers, in the manner of the Asiatic +Armenians (but without the sash, or girdle), the collars of which are +tastefully embroidered, and thrown back on their shoulders; a European +hat completes their costume, which is light, cool and airy, and after +a stranger has been a short time accustomed to see what he at first +would call a perversion of dress, his prejudices subside, and he has +no hesitation in pronouncing it very proper and graceful. They are +remarkably fine limbed, and well built, the females especially, who +are really models of the most complete symmetry; their hair and eyes, +which unlike their skins, seldom vary from the original jet black of +their native parents, bestow upon them the primary characteristics of +the brunette. This people, unlike the generality of mixed colors in +the human race, have been improved by their intermixture, they are more +industrious and cleanly than the Spaniards, possess more intelligence +and polish than the Indians and are less malicious and revengeful than +either. The men are employed mostly as writers, brokers, agents and +overseers; many of them hold lucrative offices under government, and +they not unfrequently arrive at wealth and consideration. The women +are also industrious, and capable of great intellectual improvement; +they have a natural grace and ease in their manner, and make excellent +wives and mothers. This character must not, however, be taken in an +unlimited sense, for we cannot expect this rule to be without its +exceptions, and it is true that some of these females do degenerate, +and copy after the manners of the creoles, or white natives; but +this is only the case when, by their intercourse with the whites, +their Indian blood is merged and lost in the European. That part +of the population in which is blended the blood of the Chinese and +Tagalogs is named the Chinese mestizos. + +The natives are not unapt in acquiring knowledge, neither do they +want industry, when efforts are made, and inducements displayed +to call their powers into action. They are excellent mechanics and +artisans, and, as horticulturists, their superiority over many of the +Asiatics is acknowledged. They are polite and affable to strangers, +but irascible, and when excited are very sanguinary; their natural +bias to this revengeful and cruel character, is strengthened and +rendered more intense by the ... doctrines of the Roman catholic +religion as dictated to them by the designing and interested priests +who reside among them. The culprit always finds a sanctuary in the +nearest church, till by the payment of some pecuniary mulct, he +satisfies the demands of the priests, obtains absolution, appeases +the resentment of the relations of the deceased, and eludes the arm +of justice; he grows hardened by impunity, repeats his offences, +and again escapes as before." + +[A Filipino foundry.] "* * * All the necessary works for a garrisoned +city are within its walls; extensive magazines were erected in 1686, +besides which are a hall of arms, or armory, a repository for powder, +with bomb-proof vaults, and commodious quarters and barracks for the +garrison. There is also a furnace and foundry here, which, although +their operations were suppressed in 1805, is the most ancient in +the Spanish monarchy; this establishment was founded in 1584, in +the village of St. Anna, near Manila; to the latter of which places +it was transferred in 1590. The first founder was a Pampango Indian, +named Pandapira. When the Spaniards first arrived at Manila, in 1571, +they found there a large foundry, which was accidentally burnt, +in consequence of the combustibility of the building and effects, +which character applies to all the houses of that period." + +[Language.] [277]"* * * Their colloquial language, like that of the +natives of Java, Borneo, Sumatra, and many other islands in these seas, +is a dialect of the peninsular Malay from whence it is thought they +originated; and so striking is its similarity among all these islands, +that the natives of each can, in a greater or less degree, understand +that of all the others. The characters of their written language +differ widely, and great varieties of arrangement exist among them. The +Tagalogs write from top to bottom on palm leaves and strips of bamboo; +and many of the Moros or Mahomedans use the Arabic characters." + +[Difference of days.] [278]From the circumstance of the Spaniards +arriving in these seas by Cape Horn, and the general route being by +the Cape of Good Hope, a consequent difference in time of one day +is produced in the different reckoning; the Spaniards losing, and +those who steer eastward gaining, each in the proportion of half a +day in completing the semi-circumference of the globe. Consequently, +the time at Manila, being regulated by their own reckonings, is one +day later than that of those who arrive there by steering eastward +from America or Europe; as for instance, when by the accounts of the +latter it is Sunday, by theirs it is only Saturday. + +[English in Manila.] In the year 1762, the city of Manila was taken +by the English, where, and at Cavite, immense quantities of naval and +military stores, brass and iron ordnance, and several fine ships, fell +into their hands. It was, however, soon delivered up to the Spaniards, +on a promise of the payment to the English of four millions of +dollars as a ransom, which, however, never has been paid. This breach +of faith and promise has been loudly complained of by the latter, +and as pertinaciously excused by the Spaniards, who complain that +the British plundered the city, and committed many other excesses, +contrary to the express conditions of their engagements, by which +they were virtually rendered nugatory. + +[Galleon trade.] The inhabitants of Manila have long enjoyed the +privilege of sending two annual ships to Acapulco called Galleons, +Navios, or Register-Ships, with the produce of the Philippines, of +China, and other parts of Asia; in return for which, they receive +various articles of the production of South America; the principal +of which are cochineal, merchandise of different descriptions of +European origin, and silver in Spanish dollars and ingots, which +compose the principal part of the value of their return cargoes, +amounting annually to about three million five hundred thousand +Spanish dollars. A large proportion of this property belongs to the +convents in Manila, whose great revenues not only enable them to +engage in extensive mercantile operations, but to lend considerable +sums to the merchants on bottomry. For the indulgence in this trade, +the proprietors pay a large sum of money to the crown. + +These ships were of the burden of from twelve to fifteen hundred +tons, and were numerously manned and well appointed for defense; but +of late years, since the revolt of the Spanish colonies, which has +rendered the navigation of the intermediate seas dangerous to these +enterprises, the trade has been greatly interrupted, and instead +of risking it in large bodies, private ships of smaller burden have +been hired for the purpose of dividing the risk; some of these have +been put under foreign colors, though formerly the galleons wore, +by instruction, the royal flag, their officers were commissioned +and uniformed like the officers of the navy, and the ships were +under the same regulations and discipline. The object, however, of +the trade in smaller ships has not been obtained; for so great are +the fears of the owners and agents of their being captured, and so +many restrictions laid upon the commanders that they lie in port the +principal part of the time; so that in September, 1819, the ships of +the preceding year had not arrived at Manila; neither had any been +dispatched from the latter place for Acapulco during that time. These +interruptions, and in fact, the virtual suspension of this commerce, +will undoubtedly, if a liberal and enlightened policy is pursued, +result greatly to the advantage of these islands and the mother +country. Already since the establishment of the cortes, permitting +foreigners to settle permanently at Manila, great improvements have +been made in the productions of the island, and important additions +to the revenue. The failure of the annual remittance of dollars from +South America to defray the expenses of the colonial government, of +which their revenues from the islands were not adequate to meet one +half, has been severely felt, and has stimulated them to make some +very unusual exertions. Foreign commerce has been more countenanced in +consequence of this state of things, and greater encouragement has been +given to the growers and manufacturers of their staple exports; and if +the affairs of these islands should in future be properly conducted, +the revenue arising from the impost on the single article of coffee, +will in a few years be amply sufficient to support the government, +and leave a net income of the revenue arising from the imposts on all +other articles, besides what would accrue from the taxes and numerous +other resources. A free commerce with other nations would create a +competition, and a consequent reduction in the price of imports, and +their articles of export would increase, in proportion to the demand +for them. In short, nothing is wanting in these beautiful islands, +but ability to direct, and energy to execute the most extensive +plans of agriculture and commerce, which the bounties of the soil, +and its excellent climate and situation, would most certainly render +completely successful; and, instead of being, as at present it is, +a burden to Spain, it would become a source of great wealth to her." + +[Spirit of independence.] [279]"* * * It is to be hoped that +the narrow and illiberal policy which has heretofore retarded the +prosperity of these fine islands, will necessarily be superseded +by more expanded views, and enable them to maintain the rank and +importance to which their intrinsic worth entitles them. The spirit +of independence which has recently diffused its influence through +the Spanish colonies on the American continent, has also darted its +rays across the Pacific, and beamed with enlivening lustre upon those +remote regions and the sacred flames of liberty which have been kindled +have in the bosom of that country, though for a period concealed from +the view of regal parasites and dependents, burned clear and intense; +and the time is perhaps not very remote, when it shall burst forth, +and shed its joyous light upon the remotest and most inconsiderable +islet of this archipelago. + +[Opportunity for a republic.] Perhaps no part of the world offers a +more eligible site for an independent republic than these islands; +their insular posture and distance from any rival power, combined +with the intrinsic strength of a free representative government, +would guarantee their safety and glory; their intermediate situation, +between Asia and the American continent, their proximity to China, +Japan, Borneo, the Molucca and Sunda Islands, the Malay peninsula, +Cochin China, Tonquin, Siam, and the European possessions in the East, +would insure them an unbounded commerce, consequently great wealth and +power; and their happiness would be secured by religious toleration +and liberal views of civil liberty in the government. It must be +confessed, however, that the national character of the Spaniards is +not suitable to produce and enjoy in perfection this most desirable +state of affairs; it is to be feared that their bigotry would preclude +religious toleration, their indolence continue the present system of +slavery, so degrading in a particular manner to a republic, their +want of energy paralyze the operations of enterprising foreigners +among them. No change, however, can be for the worse, and if all +the advantage, cannot be reaped by them, which the citizens of our +republic would secure, it will be better for them to seize and enjoy +such as their genius and talents will enable them to." + +[Health.] [280]" * * * The health of the city and suburbs is +proverbial, and the profession of a physician is, perhaps, of all +others the least lucrative. A worthy and intelligent Scotch doctor, +who had come to Manila, while I was there, to exercise his profession, +and who lodged in the same house with me, was greatly annnoyed at +the want of practice which he experienced there, although he had his +full share of patronage, and often jocosely declared that the "dom +climate" would starve him; in fact he did not long remain there; +I afterwards met him in the Isle of France, where he was still in +pursuit of practice." + +[A barbarous execution.] [281]" * * * Impelled by a very common and, +perhaps, excusable curiosity, I rode out with some friends one day +to witness the execution of a mestizo soldier for murder. The parade +ground of Bagumbayan was the theater of this tragic comedy, for such +it may be trully called, and never did I experience such a revulsion +of feeling as upon this occasion. The place was crowded with people +of all descriptions, and a strong guard of soldiers, three deep, +surrounded the gallows, forming a circle, the area of which was about +two hundred feet in diameter. The hangman was habited in a red jacket +and trousers, with a cap of the same color upon his head. This fellow +had been formerly condemned to death for parricide, but was pardoned +on condition of turning executioner, and becoming close prisoner for +life, except when the duties of his profession occasionally called him +from his dungeon for an hour. Whether his long confinement, and the +ignominious estimation in which he was held, combined with despair of +pardon for his heinous offense, and a natural ferocity of character, +had rendered him reckless of "weal or woe," or other impulse directed +his movements, I know not, but never did I see such a demoniacal visage +as was presented by this miscreant; and when the trembling culprit +was delivered over to his hand, he pounced eagerly upon his victim, +while his countenance was suffused with a grim and ghastly smile, +which reminded us of Dante's devils. He immediately ascended the +ladder, dragging his prey after him till they had nearly reached the +top; he then placed the rope around the neck of the malefactor with +many antic gestures and grimaces highly gratifying and amusing to the +mob. To signify to the poor fellow under his fangs that he wished to +whisper in his ear, to push him off the ladder, and to jump astride +his neck with his heels drumming with violence upon his stomach, was +but the work of an instant. We could then perceive a rope fast to each +leg of the sufferer, which was pulled with violence by people under +the gallows, and an additional rope, to use a sea term, a preventer, +was round his neck, and secured to the gallows, to act in case of +accident to the one by which the body was suspended. I had witnessed +many executions in different parts of the world, but never had such +a diabolical scene as this passed before my eyes." + + * * * * * + + +PART V + +The Peopling of the Philippines + +By Dr. Rudolf Virchow + +(Translated by O. T. Mason; in Smithsonian Institution 1899 Report.) + +Since the days when the first European navigators entered the South +Sea, the dispute over the source and ethnic affiliations of the +inhabitants of that extended and scattered island world has been +unsettled. The most superficial glance points out a contrariety in +external appearances, which leaves little doubt that here peoples of +entirely different blood live near and among one another. + +["Negritos and Indios."] And this is so apparent that the pathfinder +in this region, Magellan, gave expression to the contrariety in his +names for tribes and islands. Since dark complexion was observed +on individuals in certain tribes and in defined areas, and light +complexion on others, here abundantly, there quite exceptional, +writers applied Old World names to the new phenomena without further +thought. The Philippines set the decisive example in this. Fernando +Magellan first discovered the islands of this great archipelago in +1521, March 16. After his death the Spaniards completed the circle +of his discoveries. At this time the name of Negros was fixed, which +even now is called Islas de los Pintados. For years the Spaniards +called the entire archipelago Islas de Poniente; gradually, after the +expedition of Don Fray Garcia Jofre de Loaisa (1526), the new title +of the Philippines prevailed, through Salazar. + +The people were divided into two groups, the Little Negros or Negritos +and the Indios. It is quite conceivable that involuntarily the opinion +prevailed that the Negritos had close relationship with the African +blacks, and the Indios with the lighter-complexioned inhabitants of +India, or at least of Indonesia. + +However, it must be said here that the theory of a truly African +origin of the Negritos has been advanced but seldom, and then in a very +hesitating manner. The idea that with the present configuration of the +eastern island world, especially with their great distances apart, a +variety of mankind that had never manifested any aptitude for maritime +enterprises should have spread themselves over this vast ocean area, +in order to settle down on this island and on that, is so unreasonable +that it has found scarcely a defender worth naming. More and more the +blacks are coming to be considered the original peoples, the "Indios" +to be the intruders. For this there is a quite reasonable ground, +in that on many islands the blacks dwell in the interior, difficult +of access, especially in the dense and unwholesome mountain forests, +while the lighter complexioned tribes have settled the coasts. To +this are added linguistic proofs, which place the lighter races, of +homogeneous speech, in linguistic relations with the higher races, +especially the Malays. Dogmatically it has been said that originally +these islands had been occupied entirely by the primitive black +population, but afterwards, through intrusions from the sea, these +blacks were gradually pressed away from the coast and shoved back +into the interior. + +[Complicated Pacific problem.] The problem, though it appears simple +enough, has become complicated more and more through the progress +of discovery, especially since Cook enlarged our knowledge of the +oriental island world. A new and still more pregnant contrast then +thrust itself to the front in the fact that the blacks and the +lighter-colored peoples are each separated into widely differing +groups. While the former hold especially the immense, almost +continental, regions of Australia (New Holland) and New Guinea, and +also the larger archipelagos, such as New Hebrides, Solomon Islands, +Fiji (Viti) Archipelago--that is, the western areas--the north and +east, Micronesia and Polynesia, were occupied by lighter-colored +peoples. So the first division into Melanesia and Polynesia has +in latest times come to be of value, and the dogma once fixed has +remained. For the Polynesians are by many allied to the Malays, +while the blacks are put together as a special ethnological race. + +For practical ethnology this division may suffice. But the scientific +man will seek also for the blacks a genetic explanation. The answer +has been furnished by one of the greatest ethnologists, Theodor Waitz, +who, after he had exposed the insufficiency of the accepted formulas, +came to the conclusion that the differentiation of the blacks from +the lighter peoples might be an error. He denied that there had been +a primitive black race in Micronesia and Polynesia; in his opinion +we have here to do with a single race. The color of the Polynesians +may be out and out from natural causes different, "their entire +physical appearance indicates the greatest variability." Herein the +whole question of the domain of variation is sprung with imperfect +satisfaction on the part of those travelers who give their attention +more to transitions than to types. Among these are not a few who have +returned from the South Sea with the conviction that all criteria +for the diagnosis of men and of races are valueless. + +Analytical anthropology has led to other and often unexpected +results. It has proved that just that portion of South Sea +population which can apparently lay the strongest claim to be +considered a homogeneous race must be separated into a collection +of subvarieties. Nothing appears more likely than that the Negritos +of the Philippines are the nearest relatives to the Melanesians, the +Australians, the Papuans; and yet it has been proved that all these +are separated one from another by well-marked characters. Whether +these characters place the peoples under the head of varieties, +or whether, indeed, the black tribes of the South Sea, spite of all +differences, are to be traced back to one single primitive stock, +that is a question of prehistory for whose answer the material +is lacking. Were it possible to furnish the proof that the black +populations of the South Sea were already settled in their present +homes when land bridges existed between their territory and Africa, +or when the much-sought Lemuria still existed, it would not be worth +the trouble to hunt for the missing material. In our present knowledge +we can not fill the gaps, so we must yet hold the blacks of the Orient +to be separate races. + +[Hair as a race index.] The hair furnished the strongest character +for diagnosis, in which, not alone that of the head is under +consideration; the hair, therefore, occupies the foreground of +interest. Its color is of the least importance, since all peoples of +the South Sea have black hair. It is more the structure and appearance +which furnish the observer convenient starting points for the primary +classification. Generally a two-fold division satisfies. The blacks, +it is said, have crisped hair, the Polynesians and light-colored +peoples have smooth hair. But this declaration is erroneous in its +generality. It is in no way easy to declare absolutely what hair is +to be called crisp, and it is still more difficult to define in what +respects the so-called crisp varieties differ one from another. For +a long time the Australian hair was denominated crisp, until it was +evident that it could be classed neither with that of the Africans +nor with that of the Philippine blacks. Semper, one of the first +travelers to furnish a somewhat complete description of the physical +characters of the Negritos, describes it as an "extremely thick, +brown-black, lack-luster, and crisp-woolly crown of hair." Among +these peculiarities the lack-luster is unimportant, since it is due +to want of care and uncleanliness. On the contrary, the other data +furnish true characters of the hair and among them the crisp-woolly +peculiarity is most valuable. + +On the terms "wool" and "woolly" severe controversies, which have not +yet closed, have taken place among ethnologists during the last ten +years. Also the lack of care, especially the absence of the comb, +has here acted as a disturbing cause in the decision. But there is +yet a set of peoples, which were formerly included, that are now +being gradually disassociated, especially the Australians and the +Veddahs, whose hair, by means of special care, appears quite wavy +if not entirely sleek and smooth. Generally it is frowzy and matted, +so that its natural form is difficult to recognize. To it is wanting +the chief peculiarity, which obtrudes itself in the African blacks so +characteristically that the compact spiral form which it assumes from +its root, the so-called "pepper-corn," is selected as the preferable +mark of the race. The peculiar nappy head has it origin in the spiral +"rollchen." As to the Asiatic blacks this has been for a long time +known among the Andamanese; it has lately been noticed upon the Sakai +of Malacca, and it is to be found also among the Negritos of the +Philippines, as I can show by specimens. Therefore, if we seek ethnic +relationships for the Negritos of the Philippines, or as they are +named, the Aetas (Etas, Itas), such connections obtrude themselves +with the stocks named, and the more strongly since they all have +brachycephalic, relatively small (nannocephalic) heads and through +their small size attach themselves to the peculiar dwarf tribes. + +I might here comment on the singular fact that the Andaman Islands +are situated near the Nicobars in the Indian Ocean, but that the +populations on both sides of them are entirely different. In my +own detailed descriptions which treat of the skulls and the hair +specially, it is affirmed that the typical skull shape of the +Nicobarese is dolichocephalic and that "their hair stands between +the straight hair of the Mongoloid and the sleek, though slightly +curved or wavy, hair of the Malayan and Indian peoples;" their skin +color is relatively dark, but only so much so as is peculiar to the +tribes of India. With the little blacks of the Andamans there is not +the slightest agreement. In this we have one of the best evidences +against the theory of Waitz-Gerland that the differences in physical +appearance are to be attributed to variation merely. I will, however, +so as not to be misunderstood, expressly emphasize that I am not +willing to declare that the two peoples have been at all times so +constituted; I am now speaking of actual conditions. + +In the same sense I wish also my remarks concerning the Negritos to +be taken. Not one fact is in evidence from which we may conclude that +a single neighboring people known to us has been Negritized. We are +therefore justified when we see in the Negritos a truly primitive +people. As they are now, they were more than three hundred and +fifty years ago when the first European navigators visited these +islands. About older relationships nothing is known. All the graves +from which the bones of Negritos now in possession were taken belong +to recent times, and also the oldest descriptions which have been +received, so far as phylogeny is concerned, must be characterized +as modern. + +[Negritos a primitive people.] The little change in the mode of life +made known through these descriptions in connection with the low grade +of culture on which these impoverished tribes live amply testify that +we have before us here a primitive race. + + * * * * * + +(The question whether we have to do with older, independent races +in the Malay Archipelago or with mixtures is everywhere an open +one.--Translator.) + +Whoever would picture the present ethnic affiliations of the +light-colored peoples of the Philippines will soon land in confusion +on account of the great number of tribes. One of the ablest observers, +Ferd. Blumentritt, mentions, besides the Negritos, the Chinese and +the whites, not less than 51 such tribes. He classifies them in one +group as Malays, according to the plan now customary. The division +rests primarily on a linguistic foundation. But when it is noted that +the identity of language among all the tribes is not established and +among many not at all proved, it is sufficiently shown that speech is +a character of little constancy, and that a language may be imposed +upon a people to the annihilation of their own by those who belong +to a different linguistic stock. The Malay Sea is filled with islands +on which tarry the remnants of peoples not Malay. + +For a long time, especially since the Dutch occupation, these old +populations have received the special name of Alfuros. But this +ambiguous term has been used in such an arbitrary and promiscuous +fashion that latterly it has been well-nigh banished from ethnological +literature. It is not long ago that the Negritos were so called. But +if the black peoples are eliminated, there remains on many islands at +least an element to be differentiated from the Malay, chiefly through +the darker skin color, greater orthocephaly, and more wavy, quite +crimped hair. I have, for the different islands, furnished proof, +and will here only refer to the assertion that "a broad belt of +wavy and curly hair has pressed itself in between the Papuan and the +Malay, a belt which in the north seems to terminate with the Veddah, +in the south with the Australian." One can not read the accounts +of travelers without the increasing conviction of the existence of +several different, if not perhaps related, varieties of peoples thrust +on the same island. + +[Theory of Negrito and three Malay invasions.] From this results the +natural and entirely unprejudiced conclusion, which has repeatedly +been stated, that either a primitive people by later intrusions +has been pressed back into the interior or that in course of time +several immigrations have followed one another. At the same time +it is not unreasonable to think that both processes went on at the +same time, and indeed this conception is strongly brought forward. So +Blumentritt assumes that there is there a primitive black people and +that three separate Malay invasions have taken place. The oldest, +whose branches have many traits in accord with the Dayaks of Borneo, +especially the practice of head-hunting; a second, which also took +place before the arrival of the Spaniards, to which the Tagals, +Bisayas, Bicols, Ilocanos, and other tribes belong; the third, +Islamitic, which emigrated from Borneo and might have been interrupted +by the arrival of the Spaniards, and with which a contemporaneous +immigration from the Moluccas went on. It must be said, however, that +Blumentritt admits two periods for the first invasion. In the earliest +he places the immigration of the Igorots, Apayos, Zambales--in short, +all the tribes that dwelt in the interior of the country later and +were pressed away from the coast, therefore, actually, the mountain +tribes. To the second half he assigns the Tinguianes, Catalanganes, +and Irayas, who are not head-hunters, but Semper says they appear to +have a mixture of Chinese and Japanese blood. + +Against this scheme many things may be said in detail, especially that, +according to the apparently well-grounded assertions of Mueller-Beeck, +the going of the Chinese to the Philippines was developed about the +end of the fourteenth century, and chiefly after the Spaniards had +gotten a foothold and were using the Mexican silver in trade. At any +rate, the apprehension of Semper, which rests on somewhat superficial +physiognomic ground, is not confirmed by searching investigations. So +the head-hunting of the mountain tribes, so far as it hints at +relations with Borneo, gives no sure chronological result, since +it might have been contemporaneous in them and could have come here +through invasion from other islands. + +The chief inquiry is this: Whether there took place other and older +invasions. For this we are not only to draw upon the present tribes, +but if possible upon the remains of earlier and perhaps now extinct +tribes. This possibility has been brought nearer for the Philippines +through certain cave deposits. We have to thank, for the first +information, the traveler Jagor, whose exceptional talent as collector +has placed us in the possession of rich material, especially crania. To +his excellent report of his journey I have already dedicated a special +chapter, in which I have presented and partially illustrated not +only the cave crania, but also a series of other skulls. An extended +conference upon them has been held in the Anthropological Society. + +The old Spanish chroniclers describe accurately the mortuary customs +which were in vogue in their time. The dead were laid in coffins +made from excavated tree trunks and covered with a well-fitting +lid. They were then deposited on some elevated place, or mountain, +or river bank, or seashore. Caves in the mountains were also utilized +for this purpose. Jagor describes such caves on the island of Samar, +west of Luzon, whose contents have recently been annihilated. + +The few crania from there which have been intrusted to me +bear the marks of recent pedigree, as also do the additional +objects. Unfortunately, Dr. Jagor did not himself visit these +interesting caves, but he has brought crania thence which are of the +highest interest, and which I must now mention. + +[Study of a giant skull.] The cave in question lies near Lanang, on +the east coast of Samar, on the bank of a river, it is said. It is, +as the traveler reports, celebrated in the locality "on account of its +depressed gigantic crania, without sutures." The singular statement +is made clear by means of a well-preserved example, which I lay +before you. The entire cranium, including the face, is covered with +a thick layer of sinter, which gives it the appearance of belonging +to the class of skulls with Leontiasis ossea. It is, in fact, of +good size, but through the incrustation it is increased to gigantic +proportions. It is true, likewise, that it has a much flattened, +broad and compressed form. The cleaning of another skull has shown +that artificial deformation has taken place, which obviously was +completed before the incrustation was laid on by the mineral water +of the cave. I will here add that on the testimony of travelers no +Negritos were on Samar. The island lies in the neighborhood of the +Bisayas. Although no description of the position of the skull is at +hand and of the skeleton to which it apparently belonged, it must be +assumed that the dead man was not laid away in a coffin, but placed +on the ground; that, in fact, he belonged to an earlier "period." How +long ago that was can not be known, unfortunately, since no data are +at hand; however, the bones are in a nearly fossilized condition, +which allows the conclusion that they were deposited long ago. + +The deformation itself furnishes no clue to a chronological +conclusion. In Thévenot is found the statement that, according to +the account of a priest, probably in the 16th century, the custom +prevails in some of the islands to press the heads of new-born babes +between two boards, also to flatten the forehead, "since they believed +that this form was a special mark of beauty." A similar deformation, +with more pronounced flattening and backward pressure of the forehead, +is shown on the crania which Jagor produced from a cave at Caramuan in +Luzon. There are modes of flattening which remind one of Peru. When +they came into our hands it was indeed an immense surprise, since +no knowledge of such deformation in the South Sea was at hand. First +our information led to more thorough investigations; so we are aware +of several examples of it from Indonesia and, indeed, from the South +Sea (Mallicolo). However, this deformation furnishes no clue to the +antiquity of the graves. + +(Chinese and Korean pottery are said to have been found with +the deformed crania. Similar deformations exist in the Celebes, +New Britain, etc. Head-shaping has been universal, cf. A. B. Meyer, +Ueber Kunstliche deformirte Schaedel von Borneo und Mindanao and ueber +die Verbreitung der Sitte der Kunstlichen Schaedeldeformirung, 1881, +36 pp., 4.°--Translator.) + +I have sawed one of these skulls in two along the sagittal suture. The +illustration gives a good idea of the amount of compression and of the +violence which this skull endured when quite young. The cranial cavity +is inclined backward and lengthened, and curves out above, while the +occiput is pressed downward and the region of the front fontanelle +is correspondingly lacking. Likewise, a considerable thickness of +the bone is to be noted, especially of the vertex. The upper jaw is +slightly prognathous and the roof of the mouth unusually arched. + +For the purpose of the present study, it is unnecessary to go +further into particulars. It might be mentioned that all Lanang +skulls are characterized by their size and the firmness of bone, +so that they depart widely from the characteristics of the other +Philippine examples known to me. Similar skulls have been received +only from caves, which exist in one of the little rocky islands east +from Luzon. They suggest most Kanaka crania from Hawaii, and Moriori +crania from Chatham islands, and they raise the question whether +they do not belong to a migration period long before the time of +the Malays. I have, on various occasions, mentioned this probable +pre-Malayan, or at least proto-Malayan, population which stands in +nearest relation to the settling of Polynesia. Here I will merely +mention that the Polynesian sagas bring the progenitor from the west, +and that the passage between Halmahera (Gilolo) and the Philippines +is pointed out as the course of invasion. + +At any rate, it is quite probable that the skulls from Lanang, +Cragaray, and other Philippine Islands are the remains of a very old, +if not autochthonous, prehistoric layer of population. The present +mountain tribes have furnished no close analogies. As to the Igorots, +which Blumentritt attributes to the first invasion, I refer to my +description given on the ground of chronological investigations; +according to the account given by Hans Meyer the disposal of the dead +in log coffins and in caves still goes on. Of the skulls themselves, +none were brachycephalous; on the contrary, they exhibit platyrrhine +and in part decidedly pithecoid noses. On the whole, I came to the +conclusion, as did earlier Quatrefages and Hamy, that [Indications of +pre-Malay invasion.] "they stand next in comparison with the Dayaks +of Borneo," but I hold yet the impression that they belong to a very +old, probably pre-Malay, immigration. + +When, on the 18th of March, 1897, I made a communication on the +population of the Philippines, a bloody uprising had broken out +everywhere against the existing Spanish rule. In this uprising a +certain portion of the population, and indeed that which had the +most valid claim to aboriginality, the so-called Negritos, were not +involved. Their isolation, their lack of every sort of political, +often indeed of village organization, also their meager numbers, +render it conceivable that the greatest changes might go on among +their neighbors without their taking such a practical view of them +as to lead to their engaging in them. Thus it can be understood how +they would take no interest in the further development of the affair. + +Since then the result of the war between Spain and the Americans has +been the destruction of Spanish power, and the treaty of Paris brought +the entire Philippine Archipelago into the possession of the United +States of America. Henceforth the principal interest is centered +upon the deportment of the insurgents, who have not only outlived +the great war between the powers, but are now determined to assert, +or win, their independence from the conquerors. These insurgents, who +for brevity are called Filipinos, belong, as I have remarked, to the +light-colored race of so-called Indios, who are sharply differentiated +from the Negritos. Their ethnological position is difficult to fix, +since numerous mixtures have taken place with immigrant whites, +especially with Spaniards, but also with people of yellow and of +brown races--that is, with Mongols and Chinese. Perhaps here and +there the importance of this mixture on the composite type of the +Indios has been overestimated; at least in most places positive +proof is not forthcoming that foreign blood has imposed itself upon +the bright-colored population. Both history and tradition teach, on +the contrary, as also the study of the physical peculiarities of the +people that among the various tribes differences exist which suggest +family traits. To this effect is the testimony of several travelers +who have followed one another during a long period of time, as has +been developed especially by Blumentritt. + +[All immigrations from the West.] In this connection it must not +be overlooked that all these immigrations, howsoever many they be +supposed to have been, must have come this way from the west. Indeed, +a noteworthy migration from the east is entirely barred out, if we +look no farther back than the Chinese and Japanese. On the contrary, +all signs point to the assumption that from of old, long before the +coming of Portuguese and Spaniards, a strong movement had gone on +from this region to the east, and that the great sea way which exists +between Mindanao and the Sulu islands on the north and Halmahera +and the Moluccas in the south was the entrance road along which +those tribes, or at least those navigators whose arrival peopled +the Polynesian Islands, found their way into the Pacific Ocean. But +also the movement of the Polynesians points to the west, and if their +ancestors may have come from Indonesia there is no doubt that in their +long journeys eastward they must have touched at the coasts of other +islands on their way, especially the Philippines. Polynesian invasions +of the Philippines are not supposed to have closed when a migration of +peoples or of men passing out to the Pacific Ocean laid the foundation +of a large fraction of the population of the archipelago. It is known +that now and then single canoes from the Pelew or the Ladrone Islands +were driven upon the east coast of Luzon, but their importance ought +not to be overestimated. The migration this way from the west must +henceforth remain as the point of departure for all explanations of +this eastern ethnology. (These statements are well enough for working +hypotheses, but actual proofs are not at hand. Ratzel, Berl. Verhandl., +etc., Phil. Hist. Class, 1898, I., p. 33.--Translator.) + +Now, how are the local differences of various tribes to be +explained, when on the whole the place of origin was the same? Is +there here a secondary variation of the type, something brought +about through climate, food, circumstances? It is a large theme, +which, unfortunately, is too often dominated by previously-formed +theories. The importance of "environment" and mode of life upon +the corporeal development of man can not be contested, but the +measure of this importance is very much in doubt. Nowhere is this +measure, at least in the present consideration, less known than in the +Philippines. In spite of wide geological and biological differences on +these islands, there exists a close anthropological agreement of the +Indios in the chief characteristics, and the effort to trace back the +tribal differences that have been marked to climatic and alimentary +causes has not succeeded. The influence of inherited peculiarities +is also more mighty here, as in most parts of the earth, than that of +"milieu." + +If we assume, first, that the immigrants brought their peculiarities +with them, which were fixed already when they came, we must also accept +as self-evident that the Negritos of the Philippines do not belong +to the same stock as the more powerful, bright-colored Indios. As +long as these islands have been known, more than three centuries, +the skin of the Negritos has been dark brown, almost black, their +hair short and spirally twisted, and just as long has the skin +of the Indios been brownish, in various shades, relatively clear, +and the hair has been long and arranged in wavy locks. At no time, +so far as known, has it been discovered that among a single family +a pronounced variation from these peculiarities had taken place. On +this point there is entire unanimity. In case of the Negritos there is +not the least doubt; of the Indios a doubt may arise, for, in fact, +the shades of skin color appear greatly varied, since the brown is +at times quite blackish, at times yellowish, almost as varied as is +the color of the sunburnt hair. But even then the practiced eye easily +detects the descent, and if the skin alone is not sufficient the first +glance at the hair completes the diagnosis. The correct explanation +of individual or tribal variations is difficult only with the Indios, +while no such necessity exists in the case of the Negritos. But among +the Indios these individual and tribal variations are so frequent +and so outspoken that one is justified in making the inquiry whether +there has not developed here a new type of inherited peculiarities. If +this were the case, it must still be held that already the immigrant +tribes had possessed them. + +[Assistance from history.] Now, history records that different +immigrations have actually taken place. Laying aside the latest +before the arrival of the Spaniards, that of the Islamites, in +the fourteenth and the fifteenth centuries, there remains the +older one. If ethnologists and travelers in general come to the +conclusion concerning Borneo--and it is to be taken as certain--that +the differences now existing among the wild tribes of this island are +very old, it ought not be thought so wonderful if, according to the +conditions of the tribes which have immigrated thence, there should +exist on the Philippines near one another dissimilar though related +peoples. This difference is not difficult to recognize in manners and +customs--a side of the discussion which is further on to be treated +more fully. We begin with physical characteristics. + +[Hair differences.] Among these the hair occupies the chief +place. To be sure, among all the Indios it is black, but it shows +not the slightest approach to the frizzled condition which is such +a prominent feature in the external appearance of the Negritos and +of all the Papuan tribes of the East. This frizzled condition may be +called woolly, or in somewhat exaggerated refinement in the name may +be attributed to the term "wool," all sorts of meanings akin to wool; +in every case there is wanting to all the Indios the crinkling of the +hair from its exit out of the follicle, whereby would result wide +or narrow spiral tubes and the coarse appearance of the so-called +"peppercorn." The hair of all Indios is smooth and straightened out, +and when it forms curves they are only feeble, and they make the +whole outward appearance wavy or, at most, curled. + +But within this wavy or curled condition of the hair there are again +differences. In my former communication I have attended to examinations +which I made upon a large number of islands in the Malay Sea, and in +which it was shown that a certain area exists which begins with the +Moluccas and extends to the Sunda group, in which the hair shows a +strong inclination to form wavy locks, indeed passes gradually into +crinkled, if not into spiral, rolls. Such hair is found specially +in the interior of the islands, where the so-called aboriginal +population is purer and where for a long time the name of Alfuros +has been conferred on them. On most points affinity with Negritos or +Papuans is not to be recognized. Should such at any time have existed, +we are a long way from the period when the direct causes therefor are +to be looked for. In this connection the study of the Philippines is +rich with instruction. In the limits of the almost insular, isolated +Negrito enclave, mixtures between Negritos and Indios very seldom +surprise one, and never the transitions that can have arisen in the +post-generative time of development. (The island of Negros, on the +contrary, is peopled by such crossbreeds.--Translator.) + +If there are among the bright-colored islanders of the Indian Ocean +Alfuros and Malays close together there is nothing against coming upon +this contrast in the Philippine population also. Among the more central +peoples the tribal differences are so great that almost every explorer +stumbles on the question of mixture. There not only the Dayaks and the +other Malays obtrude themselves, but also the Chinese and the Mongolian +peoples of Farther India. Indeed, many facts are known, chiefly +in the language, the religion, the domestic arts, the agriculture, +the pastoral life which remind one of known conditions peculiarly +Indian. The results of the ethnologists are so tangled here that one +has to be cautious when one or another of them draws conclusions +concerning immigrations, because of certain local or territorial +specializations. Of course, when a Brahmanic custom occurs anywhere +it is right to conclude that it came here from India. But before +assuming that the tribe in which such a custom prevails itself comes +from Hither or Farther India, the time has to be ascertained to which +the custom is to be traced back. The chronological evidence leads to +the confident belief that the custom and the tribe immigrated together. + +[Ancestor worship.] Over the whole Philippine Archipelago +religious customs have changed with the progress of external +relations. Christianity has in many places spread its peculiar customs, +observances, and opinions, and changed entirely the direction of +thought. On closer view are to be detected in the midst of Christian +activities older survivals, as ingredients of belief which, in +spite of that religion, have not vanished. Before Christianity, in +many places, Islam flourished, and it is not surprising to witness, +as on Mindanao, Christian and Mohammedan beliefs side by side. But, +before Islam, ancestor worship, as has long been known, was widely +prevalent. In almost every locality, every hut has its Anito with +its special place, its own dwelling; there are Anito pictures and +images, certain trees and, indeed, certain animals in which some +Anito resides. The ancestor worship is as old as history, for the +discoverers of the Philippines found it in full bloom, and rightly +has Blumentritt characterized Anito worship as the ground form of +Philippine religion. He has also furnished numerous examples of Anito +cult surviving in Christian communities. + +Chronology has a good groundwork and it will have to observe every +footprint of vanishing creeds. Only, it must not be overlooked that +the beginning of the chronology of religion has not been reached, +and that the origin of the generally diffused ancestor worship, at +least on the Philippines, is not known. If it is borne in mind that +belief in Anitos is widely diffused in Polynesia and in purely Malay +areas, the drawing of certain conclusions therefrom concerning the +prehistory of the Philippines is to be despaired of. + +[Tattooing.] Next to religious customs, among wild tribes fashions +are most enduring. Little of costume is to be seen, indeed, among +them. Therefore, here tattooing asserts its sway. The more it has +been studied in late years the more valuable has been the information +in deciding the kinship relations of tribes. Unfortunately, in the +Philippines the greater part of the early tattoo designs have been +lost and the art itself is also nearly eliminated. But since the +journey of Carl Semper it has been known that not only Malays but +also Negritos tattoo; indeed, this admirable explorer has decided +that the "Negroes of the East Coast" practice a different method of +tattooing from that of the Mariveles in the west, and on that account +they attain different results. In the one case a needle is employed +to make fine holes in the skin in which to introduce the color; in +the other long gashes are made. In the latter case prominent scars +result; in the former a smooth pattern. But these combined patterns +are on the whole the same, instead of rectilinear figures. Schadenburg +has the operations commence with a sharpened bamboo on children 10 +years of age. Among the wild tribes of the light-colored population +tattooing is not less diffused, but the patterns are not alike in the +different tribes. Isabelo de los Reyes reports that the Tinguianes, +who inhabit the mountain forests of the northern cordilleras of Luzon, +produce figures of stars, snakes, birds, etc., on children 7 to 9 years +old. Hans Meyer describes the pattern of the Igorots. There appears to +exist a great variety of symbols; for example, on the arms, straight +and crooked lines crossing one another; on the breast, feather-like +patterns. Least frequently he saw the so-called Burik designs, which +extended in parallel bands across the breast, the back, and calves, +and give to the body the appearance of a sailor's striped jacket. It +is very remarkable that the human form never occurs. + +What is true concerning tattooing on so many Polynesian islands +holds also completely here. But reliable descriptions are so few, +and especially there is such a meager number of useful drawings, +that it would not repay the trouble to assemble the scattered data. At +least it will suffice to discover whether among them there are genuine +tribal marks or to investigate concerning the distribution of separate +patterns. Those known show conclusively that in the matter of tattooing +the Filipinos are not differentiated from the islanders of the Pacific; +they form, moreover, an important link in the chain of knowledge +which demonstrates the genetic homogeneity of the inhabitants. The +tattooings of the eastern islanders are comparable only to those of +African aborigines, with which last they furnish many family marks, +made out and recognized. It is desirable that a trustworthy collection +of all patterns be collected before the method becomes more altered +or destroyed. + +[Teeth alterations.] Next to the skin, among the wild tribes the +teeth are modified in the most numerous artificial alterations. The +preferable custom, common in Africa, of breaking out the front +teeth in greater or less number has not, so far as I remember, been +described among the Filipinos; I only mention that while I was making a +revision of our Philippine crania, two of them turned up in which the +middle upper incisors had evidently been broken out for a long time, +for the alveolar border had shrunk into a small quite smooth ridge, +without a trace of an aveolus. It is otherwise with the pointing of +the incisors, especially the upper ones, which, also is not common. I +must leave it undecided whether the sharpening is done by filing or by +breaking off pieces from the sides. The latter should be in general +far more frequent. In every case the otherwise broad and flat teeth +are brought to such sharp points as to project like those of the +carnivorous animals. I have met with this condition several times +on Negrito skulls and furnished illustrations of them. On a Zambal +skull, excavated by Dr. A. B. Meyer and which I lay before you, +the deformation is easy to be seen. I called attention at the time +to the fact that among the Malays an entirely different method of +modifying the teeth is in vogue, in which a horizontal filing on the +front surface is practiced and the sharp lower edge is straightened +and widened. Already the elder Thévenot has accented this contrast +when he says: + +"These cause the teeth to be equal, those file them to points, giving +them the shape of a saw." + +This difference appears to have held on till the present; at least +no skull of an Indio is known to me with similar deformation of the +teeth. This custom of the Negritos is so much more remarkable since +the chipping of the corners of the teeth is widely spread among the +African blacks. + +[Skill flattening.] The other part of the body used most for +deformation--the skull--is in strong contrast to the last-named +custom. Deformed crania; especially from older times, are quite +numerous in the Philippines; probably they belong exclusively to +the Indios. If they exist among the Negritos, I do not know it; the +only exception comes from the Tinguianes, of whom I. de los Reyes +reports their skulls are flattened behind (por detrás oprimido). Such +flattening is found, however, not seldom among tribes who have the +practice of binding children on hard cradle boards--chiefly among those +families who keep their infants a long time on such contrivances. A +sure mark by which to discriminate accidental pressure of this sort +from one intentionally produced is not at hand; it may be that +in accidental deformation oblique position of the deformed spot +is more frequent; at any rate, the difference in the Philippines +is a very striking one, since there not so much the occiput as the +front and middle portions suffer from the disfigurements, and thereby +deformations are produced that have had their most perfect expression +among the ancient Peruvians and other American tribes. + +I have discussed cranial deformation of the Americans in +greater detail, where I exhibit the accidental and the artificial +(intentional) deformation in their principal forms. The result is that +in large sections of America scarcely any ancient skulls are found +having their natural forms, but that the practice of deformation +has not been general; moreover, a number of deformation centers +may be differentiated which stand in no direct association with +one another. The Peruvian center is far removed from that of the +northwest coast, and this again from that of the Gulf States. From +this it must not be said that each center may have had its own, as +it were, autochthonous origin. But the method has not so spread that +its course can be followed immediately. Rather is the supposition +confirmed that the method is to be traced to some other time, +therefore that somewhere there must have been a place of origin for +it. On the Eastern Hemisphere, and especially in the region here +under consideration, the relations are apparently otherwise. Here +exist, so far as known, great areas entirely free from deformation; +small ones, on the other hand, full of it. There are here, also, +deformation centers, but only a few. Among these, with our present +knowledge, the Philippines occupy the first place. + +The knowledge of this, indeed, is not of long duration. Public +attention was first aroused about thirty years ago concerning +skulls from Samar and Luzon, gathered by F. Jagor from ancient +caves, to furnish the proof of their deformation. Up to that time +next to nothing was known of deformed crania in the oriental island +world. First through my publication the attention of J. G. Riedel, +a most observant Dutch resident, was called to the fact that cranial +deformation is still practiced in the Celebes, and he was so good as to +send us a specimen of the compressing apparatus for delicate infants +(1874). Compressed crania were also found. But the number was small +and the compression of the separate specimens was only slight. In +both respects what was observed in the Sunda islands did not differ +from the state of the case in the Philippines. Through Jagor's +collections different places had become known where deformed crania +were buried. Since then the number of localities has multiplied. I +shall mention only two, on account of their peculiar locality. One is +Cagraray, a small island east of Luzon, in the Pacific Ocean, at the +entrance of the Bay of Albay; the other, the island of Marinduque, +in the west, between Luzon and Mindoro. From the last-named island I +saw, ten years ago, the first picture of one in a photograph album +accidentally placed in my hands. Since then I had opportunity to +examine the Schadenberg collection of crania, lately come into the +possession of the Reichsmuseum, in Leyden, and to my great delight +discovered in it a series of skulls which are compressed in exactly +the same fashion as those of Lanang. It is said that these will soon +be described in a publication. + +It is of especial interest that this method has been noted in the +Philippines for more than three hundred years. In my first publication +I cited a passage in Thévenot where he says, on the testimony of a +priest, that the natives on some islands had the custom of compressing +the head of a newborn child between two boards, so that it would be +no longer round, but lengthened out; also they flattened the forehead, +which they looked upon as a special mark of beauty. This is, therefore, +an ancient example. It is confirmed by the circumstance that these +crania are found especially in caves, from the roofs of which mineral +waters have dripped, which have overlaid the bones partly with a thick +layer of calcareous matter. The bones themselves have an uncommonly +thick, almost ivory, fossil-like appearance. Only the outer surface +is in places corroded, and on these places saturated with a greenish +infiltration. It is to be assumed, therefore, that they are very old. I +have the impression that they must have been placed here before the +discovery of the islands and the introduction of Christianity. Their +peculiar appearance, especially their angular form and the thickness +of the bone, reminds one of crania from other parts of the South Sea, +especially those from Chatham and Sandwich Islands. I shall not here +go further into this question, but merely mention that I came to the +conclusion that these people must be looked upon as proto-Malayan. + +[Hope of Filipino and American study.] The changes which will take +place in the political condition of the Philippines may be of little +service to scientific explorations at first; but the study of the +population will be surely taken up with renewed energy. Already +in America scholars have begun to occupy themselves therewith. A +brief article by Dr. Brinton is to be mentioned as the first sign of +this. But should the ardent desire of the Filipinos be realized, that +their islands *hould have political autonomy, it is to be hoped that, +out of the patriotic enthusiasm of the population and the scientific +spirit of many of their best men, new sources of information will be +opened for the history and the development of oriental peoples. To +this end it may be here mentioned, by the way, that the connecting +links of ancient Philippine history and the customs of these islands, +as well with the Melanesians as with the Polynesians of the south, +are yet to be discovered. + +As representatives of these two groups, I present, in closing, two +especially well-formed crania from the Philippines. One of them, +which shows the marks of antiquity that I have set forth, belongs +to an "Indio." [Comparison of Indio and Negrito skulls.] It has +the high cranial capacity of 1,540 cubic centimeters, a horizontal +circumference of 525 millimeters, and a sagitta-circumference of +386 millimeters; its form is hypsidolicho, quite on the border of +mesocephaly: Index of width, 75.3; index of height, 76.3. Besides, +it has the appearance of a race capable of development; only, the +nose is platyrrhine (index, 52.3), as among so many Malay tribes, and +in the left temple it bears a Processus frontalis squamae temporalis +developed partly from an enlarged fontanelle. The other skull was one +taken from a Negrito grave of Zambales by Dr. A. B. Meyer. It makes, +at first glance, just as favorable an impression, but its capacity +is only 1,182 cubic centimeters; therefore 358 cubic centimeters less +than the other. Its form is orthobrachycephalic; breadth index, 80.2; +height index, 70.6. As in single traits of development, so in the +measurements, the difference and the debased character of this race +obtrude themselves. Only, the nasal index is somewhat smaller; on the +whole, the nose has in its separate parts a decidedly pithecoid form. + + +PART VI + +People and Prospects of the Philippines + +Blackwood's magazine for August, 1818, has an account of conditions +in Manila and the Philippines from data given by an English merchant +who left the Islands in 1798 after twenty years' residence in which +he accumulated a fortune. + +"Your first question, with respect to the Spanish population, must +refer to native Spaniards only; as their numerous descendants, through +all the variety of half-castes, would include one third at least of +the whole population of Luconia (i.e., Luzon--A. C.) + +"Of native Spaniards, accordingly, settled in the Philippine Islands, +the total number may be stated at 2,000 not military. The military, +including all descriptions, men and officers, are about 2,500, +out of which number the native regiments are officered These last, +in 1796-7, were almost entirely composed of South Americans and were +reckoned at 5,000 men, making a military force of about 7,500. + +"The castes bearing a mixture of the Spanish blood are in Luconia +alone at least 200,000. The Sangleys, or Chinese descendants, are +upwards of 20,000, and Indians, who call themselves the original +Tagalas, about 340,000, making a total population in that island of +about 600,000 souls. What may be the respective numbers in the other +Philippine Islands I never had any opportunity of learning." + +(This opinion, of a day when it was not desired to disparage the +people, gives an idea of the mixed blood of the Filipinos which, in the +opinion of the ethnologists, like Ratzel, is a source of strength. It +classes them with the English and Americans. One danger of the present +appears in over-emphasizing the Malay blood, just as in Spanish times +a real loss seems to have come from the contempt toward the Chinese +which led to minimizing and concealing a most creditable ancestry. + +Prejudice in the past called all trouble makers mestizos, but today's +study is showing that trouble maker meant man who would stand up for +his rights; one must not forget that mestizo was used as a reproach, +that the leaders of the people were really typical of the people. By +the old injustice those who were mediocre were called natives and +whoever rose above his fellows was claimed as a Spaniard, but a +fairer way would seem to be to consider Filipinos all born in the +Philippines.--C.). + +The Cornhill magazine in the late '70s had a contribution by the then +British Consul, Mr. Palgreave, on "Malay Life in the Philippines," +that makes more understandable the reputation of the islands, which +before the opening of the Suez were a health resort for Japan, +the China coast and India. It also shows a fairness to the people +uncommon in the Spanish-inspired writings of his day. + +"Dull indeed must be his soul, unsympathetic his nature who can see +the forests and mountains of Luzon, Queen of the Eastern Isles, fade +away into dim violet outlines on the fast receding horizon without +some pang of longing regret. Not the Aegean, not the West Indian, +not the Samoan, not any rival in manifold beauties of earth, sea and +sky the Philippine Archipelago. Pity that for the Philippines no word +limner of note exists. The chiefest, the almost exceptional spell of +the Philippines, is situated, not in the lake or volcano, forest or +plain, but in the races that form the bulk of the island population. + +"I said 'almost exceptional' because rarely is an intra-tropical +people a satisfactory one to eye or mind. But this cannot be +said of the Philippine Malays who in bodily formation and mental +characteristics alike, may fairly claim a place, not among middling +ones merely, but among almost the higher names inscribed on the world's +national scale. A concentrated, never-absent self-respect, an habitual +self-restraint in word and deed, very rarely broken except when extreme +provocation induces the transitory but fatal frenzy known as 'amok,' +and an inbred courtesy, equally diffused through all classes, high or +low, unfailing decorum, prudence, caution, quiet cheerfulness, ready +hospitality and a correct, though not inventive taste. His family is +a pleasing sight, much subordination and little constraint, unison in +gradation, liberty--not license. Orderly children, respected parents, +women subject but not oppressed, men ruling but not despotic, reverence +with kindness, obedience in affection, these form lovable pictures, +not by any means rare in the villages of the eastern isles." (Here +again comes the necessity of combatting the popular impression that the +Philippines is a tropical land peopled by Malays. The modification of +climate from being an ocean archipelago suggests that these islands are +really subtropical, while mixture of blood joined with three centuries +of European civilization makes the term Malay misleading.--C.) + + * * * * * + + +PART VII + +Filipino Merchants of the Early 1890s + +F. Karuth, F. R. G. S., (President of an English corporation interested +in Philippine mining) about 1894, wrote: + +"Few outside the comparatively narrow circle who are directly +interested in the commerce and resources of the Philippine Islands +know anything about them. The Philippine merchants are a rather +close community which only in the last decade or so has expanded its +diameter a little. There are a number of very old established firms +amongst them, several of them being British.... Amongst them also +are firms--perhaps as far as wealth and local influence go, the most +important firms--whose chiefs are partly at least of native blood. + + + + + + +NOTES + +[1] New York noon is Manilla 1:04 next morning.--C. + +[2] Navarrete, IV, 97 Obs. 2a. + +[3] According to Albo's ship journal, he perceived the difference at +the Cape de Verde Islands on July 9, 1522; "Y este día fué miercoles, +y este día tienen ellos pot jueves." (And this day was Wednesday and +this day they had as Thursday.) + +[4] In a note on the 18th page of the masterly English (Hakluyt +Society) translation of Morga, I find the curious statement that +a similar rectification was made at the same time at Macao, where +the Portuguese, who reached it on an easterly course, had made the +mistake of a day the other way. + +[5] Towards the close of the sixteenth century the duty upon the +exports to China amounted to $40,000 and their imports to at least +$1,330,000. In 1810, after more than two centuries of undisturbed +Spanish rule, the latter had sunk to $1,150,000. Since then they have +gradually increased; and in 1861 they reached $2,130,000. + +[6] The Panama canal prevents this.--C. + +[7] Navarrete, IV, 54 Obs. 1a. + +[8] According to Gehler's Phys. Lex. VI, 450, the log was first +mentioned by Purchas in an account of a voyage to the East Indies in +1608. Pigafetta does not cite it in his treatise on navigation; but +in the forty-fifth page of his work it is said: "Secondo la misura +che facevamo del viaggio colla cadena a poppa, noi percorrevamo 60 a +70 leghe al giorno." This was as rapid a rate as that of our (1870) +fastest steamboats--ten knots an hour. + +[9] The European mail reaches Manila through Singapore and +Hongkong. Singapore is about equidistant from the other two +places. Letters therefore could be received in the Philippines as soon +as in China, if they were sent direct from Singapore. In that case, +however, a steamer communication with that port must be established, +and the traffic is not yet sufficiently developed to bear the double +expense. According to the report of the English Consul (May, 1870), +there is, besides the Government steamer, a private packet running +between Hongkong and Manila. The number of passengers it conveyed +to China amounted, in 1868, to 441 Europeans and 3,048 Chinese; +total, 3,489. The numbers carried the other way were 330 Europeans +and 4,664 Chinese; in all, 4,994. The fare is $80 for Europeans and +$20 for Chinamen. + +[10] Zuñiga, Mavers, I, 225. + +[11] Dr. Pedro Pelaez, in temporary charge of the diocese and dying +in the cathedral, was the foremost Filipino victim. Funds raised in +Spain for relief never reached the sufferers, but not till the end +of Spanish rule was it safe to comment on this in the Philippines.--C. + +[12] Zuñiga, XVIII, M. Velarde, p. 139. + +[13] Captain Salmon, Goch., S. 33. + +[14] The opening of this port proved so advantageous that I intended +to have given a few interesting details of its trade in a separate +chapter, chiefly gathered from the verbal and written remarks of the +English Vice-Consul, the late Mr. N. Loney, and from other consular +reports. + +[15] In 1868, 112 foreign vessels, to the aggregate of 74,054 tons, +and Spanish ships to the aggregate of 26,762 tons, entered the +port of Manila. Nearly all the first came in ballast, but left with +cargoes. The latter both came and left in freight. (English Consul's +Report, 1869.) + +[16] In 1868 the total exports amounted to $14,013,108; of this England +alone accounted for $4,857,000, and the whole of the rest of Europe for +only $102,477. The first amount does not include the tobacco duty paid +to Spain by the colony, $3,169,144. (English Consul's Report, 1869.) + +[17] La Pérouse said that Manila was perhaps the most fortunately +situated city in the world. + +[18] Sapan or Sibucao, Caesalpinia Sapan. Pernambuco or Brazil +wood, to which the empire of Brazil owes its name, comes from the +Caesalpinia echinat and the Caesalpinia Braziliensis. (The oldest +maps of America remark of Brazil: "Its only useful product is Brazil +(wood).") The sapan of the Philippines is richer in dye stuff than +all other eastern asiatic woods, but it ranks below the Brazilian +sapan. It has, nowadays, lost its reputation, owing to its being +often stupidly cut down too early. It is sent especially to China, +where it is used for dyeing or printing in red. The stuff is first +macerated with alum, and then for a finish dipped in a weak alcoholic +solution of alkali. The reddish brown tint so frequently met with in +the clothes of the poorer Chinese is produced from sapan. + +[19] Large quantities of small mussel shells (Cypraea moneta) were +sent at this period to Siam, where they are still used as money. + +[20] Berghaus' Geo. hydrogr. Memoir. + +[21] Manila was first founded in 1571, but as early as 1565, Urdaneta, +Legaspi's pilot, had found the way back through the Pacific Ocean +while he was seeking in the higher northern latitudes for a favorable +north-west wind. Strictly speaking, however, Urdaneta was not the first +to make use of the return passage, for one of Legaspi's five vessels, +under the command of Don Alonso de Arellano, which had on board as +pilot Lope Martin, a mulatto, separated itself from the fleet after +they had reached the Islands, and returned to New Spain on a northern +course, in order to claim the promised reward for the discovery. Don +Alonso was disappointed, however, by the speedy return of Urdaneta. + +[22] Kottenkamp I., 1594. + +[23] At first the maximum value of the imports only was limited, +and the Manila merchants were not over scrupulous in making false +statements as to their worth; to put an end to these malpractices a +limit was placed to the amount of silver exported. According to Mas, +however, the silver illegally exported amounted to six or eight times +the prescribed limit. + +[24] La Pérouse mentions a French firm (Sebis), that, in 1787, had +been for many years established in Manila. + +[25] R. Cocks to Thomas Wilson (Calendar of State Papers, India, +No. 823) .... "The English will obtain a trade in China, so they +bring not in any padres (as they term them), which the Chinese cannot +abide to hear of, because heretofore they came in such swarms, and +are always begging without shame." + +[26] As late as 1857 some old decrees, passed against the establishment +of foreigners, were renewed. A royal ordinance of 1844 prohibits +the admission of strangers into the interior of the colony under any +pretext whatsoever. + +[27] Vide Pinkerton. + +[28] Each packet was 5 × 2 1/2 × 1 1/2 = 18.75 Spanish cubic +feet. St. Croix. + +[29] Vide Comyn's comercio exterior. + +[30] The obras pias were pious legacies which usually stipulated +that two-thirds of their value should be advanced at interest for the +furtherance of maritime commercial undertakings until the premiums, +which for a voyage to Acapulco amounted to 50, to China 25, and to +India 35 per cent., had increased the original capital to a certain +amount. The interest of the whole was then to be devoted to masses +for the founders, or to other pious and benevolent purposes. A third +was generally kept as a reserve fund to cover possible losses. The +government long since appropriated these reserve funds as compulsory +loans, "but they are still considered as existing." + +When the trade with Acapulco came to an end, the principals could no +longer be laid out according to the intentions of the founders, and +they were lent out at interest in other ways. By a royal ordinance of +November 3, 1854, a junta was appointed to administer the property of +the . The total capital of the five endowments (in reality only four, +for one of them no longer possessed anything) amounted to nearly +a million of dollars. The profits from the loans were distributed +according to the amounts of the original capital, which, however, +no longer existed in cash, as the government had disposed of them. + +[31] Vide Thevenot. + +[32] According to Morga, between the fourteenth and fifteenth. + +[33] Vide De Guignes, Pinkerton XI, and Anson X. + +[34] Vide Anson. + +[35] Randolph's History of California. + +[36] In Morga's time, the galleons took seventy days to the Ladrone +Islands, from ten to twelve from thence to Cape Espiritu Santo, +and eight more to Manila. + +[37] A very good description of these voyages may be found in the +10th chapter of Anson's work, which also contains a copy of a sea map, +captured in the Cavadonga, displaying the proper track of the galleons +to and from Acapulco. + +[38] De Guignes. + +[39] The officer in command of the expedition, to whom the title of +general was given, had always a captain under his orders, and his +share in the gain of each trip amounted to $40,000. The pilot was +content with $20,000. The first lieutenant (master) was entitled to 9 +per cent on the sale of the cargo, and pocketed from this and from the +profits of his own private ventures upwards of $350,000. (Vide Arenas.) + +[40] The value of the cargoes Anson captured amounted to $1,313,000, +besides 35,682 ounces of fine silver and cochineal. While England +and Spain were at peace, Drake plundered the latter to the extent of +at least one and a half million of dollars. Thomas Candish burnt the +rich cargo of the Santa Anna, as he had no room for it on board his +own vessel. + +[41] For instance, in 1786 the San Andres, which had a cargo on board +valued at a couple of millions, found no market for it in Acapulco; +the same thing happened in 1787 to the San Jose, and a second time +in 1789 to the San Andres. + +[42] In 1855 its population consisted of 586 European Spaniards, +1,378 Creoles, 6,323 Malay Filipinos and mestizos, 332 Chinamen, +2 Hamburgers, 1 Portuguese, and 1 Negro. + +[43] The earthquake of 1863 destroyed the old bridge. It is intended, +however, to restore it; the supporting pillars are ready, and +the superincumbent iron structure is shortly expected from Europe +(April, 1872).--The central span, damaged in the high water of 1914, +was temporarily replaced with a wooden structure and plans have been +prepared for a new bridge, permitting ships to pass and to be used +also by the railway, nearer the river mouth.--C. + +[44] Roescher's Colonies. + +[45] A brief description of a nipa house, accompanying an illustration, +is here omitted.--C. + +[46] The following figures will give an idea of the contents of +the newspapers. I do not allude to the Bulletin Official, which is +reserved for official announcements, and contains little else of +any importance. The number lying before me of the Comercio (Nov. 29, +1858), a paper that appears six times a week, consists of four pages, +the printed portion in each of which is 11 inches by 17; the whole, +therefore, contains 748 square inches of printed matter. They are +distributed as follows:-- + +Title, 27 1/2 sq. in.; an essay on the population of Spain, taken +from a book, 102 1/2 sq. in.; under the heading "News from Europe," +an article, quoted from the Annals of La Caridad, upon the increase +of charity and Catholic instruction in France, 40 1/2 sq. in.; +Part I, of a treatise on Art and its Origin (a series of truisms), +70 sq. in.; extracts from the official sheet, 20 1/2 sq. in.; a few +ancient anecdotes, 59 sq. in. Religious portion (this is divided into +two parts--official and unofficial). The first contains the saints +for the different days of the year, etc., and the announcements of +religious festivals; the second advertises a forthcoming splendid +procession, and contains the first half of a sermon preached three +years before, on the anniversary of the same festival, 99 sq. in., +besides an instalment of an old novel, 154, and advertisements, 175 +sq. in.; total, 748 sq. in. In the last years, however, the newspapers +sometimes have contained serious essays, but of late these appear +extremely seldom. + +[47] Vide Pigafetta. + +[48] Cock-fighting is not alluded to in the "Ordinances of good +government," collected by Hurtado Corcuera in the middle of the +seventeenth century. In 1779 cock-fights were taxed for the first +time. In 1781 the government farmed the right of entrance to +the galleras (derived from gallo, rooster) for the yearly sum of +$14,798. In 1863 the receipts from the galleras figured in the budget +for $106,000. + +A special decree of 100 clauses was issued in Madrid on the 21st of +March, 1861, for the regulation of cock-fights. The 1st clause declares +that since cock-fights are a source of revenue to the State, they +shall only take place in arenas licensed by the Government. The 6th +restricts them to Sundays and holidays; the 7th, from the conclusion +of high mass to sunset. The 12th forbids more than $50 to be staked +on one contest. The 38th decrees that each cock shall carry but one +weapon, and that on its left spur. By the 52nd the fight is to be +considered over when one or both cocks are dead, or when one shows +the white feather. In the London Daily News of the 30th June, 1869, +I find it reported that five men were sentenced at Leeds to two +months' hard labor for setting six cocks to fight one another with +iron spurs. From this it appears that this once favorite spectacle +is no longer permitted in England. + +[49] The raw materials of these adventures were supplied by a French +planter, M. de la Gironiere, but their literary parent is avowedly +Alexander Dumas. + +[50] Botanical gardens do not seem to prosper under Spanish +auspices. Chamisso complains that, in his day, there were no traces +left of the botanical gardens founded at Cavite by the learned +Cuellar. The gardens at Madrid, even, are in a sorry plight; its +hothouses are almost empty. The grounds which were laid out at great +expense by a wealthy and patriotic Spaniard at Orotava (Teneriffe), +a spot whose climate has been of the greatest service to invalids, are +rapidly going to decay. Every year a considerable sum is appropriated +to it in the national budget, but scarcely a fraction of it ever +reaches Orotava. When I was there in 1867, the gardener had received +no salary for twenty-two months, all the workmen were dismissed, +and even the indispensable water supply had been cut off. + +[51] For a proof of this vide the Berlin Ethnographical Museum, +Nos. 294-295. + +[52] Bertillon (Acclimatement et Acclimatation, Dict. Encycl. des +Science, Médicales) ascribes the capacity of the Spaniards for +acclimatization in tropical countries to the large admixture of +Syrian and African blood which flows in their veins. The ancient +Iberians appear to have reached Spain from Chaldea across Africa; +the Phoenicians and Carthaginians had flourishing colonies in the +peninsula, and, in later times, the Moors possessed a large portion +of the country for a century, and ruled with great splendor, a state +of things leading to a mixture of race. Thus Spanish blood has three +distinct times been abundantly crossed with that of Africa. The warm +climate of the peninsula must also largely contribute to render its +inhabitants fit for life in the tropics. The pure Indo-European race +has never succeeded in establishing itself on the southern shores of +the Mediterranean, much less in the arid soil of the tropics. + +In Martinique, where from eight to nine thousand whites live on the +proceeds of the toil of 125,000 of the colored race, the population +is diminishing instead of increasing. The French creoles seem to +have lost the power of maintaining themselves, in proportion to the +existing means of subsistence, and of multiplying. Families which +do not from time to time fortify themselves with a strain of fresh +European blood, die out in from three to four generations. The same +thing happens in the English, but not in the Spanish Antilles, although +the climate and the natural surroundings are the same. According to +Ramón de la Sagra, the death-rate is smaller among the creoles, and +greater among the natives, than it is in Spain; the mortality among +the garrison, however, is considerable. The same writer states that +the real acclimatization of the Spanish race takes place by selection; +the unfit die, and the others thrive. + +[53] An unnecessary line is here omitted.--C. + +[54] Depons, speaking of the means employed in America to obtain the +same end, says, "I am convinced that it is impossible to engraft the +Christian religion on the Indian mind without mixing up their own +inclinations and customs with those of Christianity; this has been +even carried so far, that at one time theologians raised the question, +whether it was lawful to eat human flesh? But the most singular part +of the proceeding is, that the question was decided in favor of the +anthropophagi." + +[55] As a matter of fact, productive land is always appropriated, +and in many parts of the Islands is difficult and expensive to +purchase. Near Manila, and in Bulacan, land has for many years past +cost over $225 (silver) an acre. + +[56] Ind. Arch. IV; 307. + +[57] In Buitenzorger's garden, Java, the author observed, however, +some specimens growing in fresh water. + +[58] Boyle, in his Adventures among the Dyaks, mentions that he +actually found pneumatic tinder-boxes, made of bamboo, in use among +the Dyaks; Bastian met with them in Burmah. Boyle saw a Dyak place +some tinder on a broken piece of earthenware, holding it steady with +his thumb while he struck it a sharp blow with a piece of bamboo. The +tinder took fire. Wallace observed the same method of striking a +light in Ternate. + +[59] Centigrade is changed to Fahrenheit by multiplying by nine-fifths +and adding thirty-two.--C. + +[60] Tylor (Anahuac 227) says that this word is derived from the +Mexican petlatl, a mat. The inhabitants of the Philippines call this +petate, and from the Mexican petla-calli, a mat "house," derive petaca, +a cigar case. + +[61] Four lines, re an omitted sketch, left out.--C. + +[62] Voyage en Chine, vol. II., page 33. + +[63] According to the report of an engineer, the sand banks are caused +by the river San Mateo, which runs into the Pasig at right angles +shortly after the latter leaves the Lagoon; in the rainy season it +brings down a quantity of mud, which is heaped up and embanked by the +south-west winds that prevail at the time. It would, therefore, be of +little use to remove the sandbanks without giving the San Mateo, the +cause of their existence, a direct and separate outlet into the lake. + +[64] They take baths for their maladies, and have hot springs for +this purpose, particularly along the shore of the king's lake (Estang +du Roy, instead of Estang de Bay by a printer's mistake apparently), +which is in the Island of Manila.--Thevenot. + +[65] "One can scarcely walk thirty paces between Mount Makiling and +a place called Bacon, which lies to the east of Los Baños, without +meeting several kinds of natural springs, some very hot, some lukewarm, +some of the temperature of the atmosphere, and some very cold. In a +description of this place given in our archives for the year 1739, it +is recorded that a hill called Natognos lies a mile to the south-east +of the village, on the plateau of which there is a small plain 400 +feet square, which is kept in constant motion by the volume of vapor +issuing from it. The soil from which this vapor issues is an extremely +white earth; it is sometimes thrown up to the height of a yard or a +yard and a half, and meeting the lower temperature of the atmosphere +falls to the ground in small pieces."--Estado geograph., 1865. + +[66] Pigafetta says that the natives, in order to obtain palm-wine, +cut the top of the tree through to the pith, and then catch the sap +as it oozes out of the incision. According to Regnaud, Natural History +of the Coco-tree, the negroes of Saint Thomas pursue a similar method +in the present day, a method that considerably injures the trees and +produces a much smaller quantity of liquor. Hernandez describes an +indigenous process of obtaining wine, honey, and sago from the sacsao +palm, a tree which from its stunted growth would seem to correspond +with the acenga saccharifera. The trees are tapped near the top, the +soft part of the trunks is hollowed out, and the sap collects in this +empty space. When all the juice is extracted, the tree is allowed to +dry up, and is then cut into thin pieces which, after desiccation in +the sun, are ground into meal. + +[67] Pigafetta mentions that the natives were in the habit of making +oil, vinegar, wine, and milk, from the coco-palm, and that they drank +a great deal of the wine. Their kings, he says, frequently intoxicated +themselves at their banquets. + +[68] A number of the Illustrated London News, of December, 1857, +or January, 1858, contains a clever drawing, by an accomplished +artist, of the mode of travelling over this road, under the title, +"A macadamized road in Manila." + +[69] Erd and Picketing, of the United States exploring expedition, +determined the height to be 6,500 English feet (7,143 Spanish), +not an unsatisfactory result, considering the imperfect means they +possessed for making a proper measurement. In the Manila Estado +geographico for 1865, the height is given, without any statement as +to the source whence the estimate is derived, as 7,030 feet. The same +authority says, "the large volcano is extinct since 1730, in which +year its last eruption took place. The mountain burst into flames on +the southern side, threw up streams of water, burning lava, and stones +of an enormous size; traces of the last can be observed as far as the +village of Sariaya. The crater is perhaps a league in circumference, +it is highest on the northern side, and its interior is shaped like +an egg-shell: the depth of the crater apparently extends half-way +down the height of the mountain." + +[70] From ponte, deck; a two-masted vessel, with mat sails, of about +100 tons burden. + +[71] Estado Geogr., p. 314. + +[72] Officially called Cagsaua. The old town of Cagsaua, which was +built higher up the hill and was destroyed by the eruption of 1814, +was rebuilt on the spot where formerly stood a small hamlet of the +name of Daraga. + +[73] I learnt from Mr. Paton that the undertaking had also been +represented as impracticable in Albay. "Not a single Spaniard, not +a single native had ever succeeded in reaching the summit; in spite +of all their precautions they would certainly be swallowed up in the +sand." However, one morning, about five o'clock, they set off, and soon +reached the foot of the cone of the crater. Accompanied by a couple of +natives, who soon left them, they began to make the ascent. Resting +half way up, they noticed frequent masses of shining lava, thrown +from the mouth of the crater, gliding down the mountain. With the +greatest exertions they succeeded, between two and three o'clock, +in reaching the summit, where, however, they were prevented by the +noxious gas from remaining more than two or three minutes. During +their descent, they restored their strength with some refreshments +Sr. Muñoz had sent to meet them; and they reached Albay towards +evening, where during their short stay they were treated as heroes, +and presented with an official certificate of their achievement, +for which they had the pleasure of paying several dollars. + +[74] From 36,000,000 to 40,000,000 lbs. of cacao are consumed in Europe +annually; of which quantity nearly a third goes to France, whose +consumption of it between 1853 and 1866 has more than doubled. In +the former year it amounted to 6,215,000 lbs., in the latter to +12,973,534 lbs. Venezuela sends the finest cacaos to the European +market, those of Porto Cabello and Caracas. That of Caracas is the +dearest and the best, and is of four kinds: Chuao, Ghoroni, O'Cumar, +and Rio Chico. England consumes the cacao grown in its own colonies, +although the duty (1d per lb.) is the same for all descriptions. Spain, +the principal consumer, imports its supplies from Cuba, Porto Rico, +Ecuador, Mexico, and Trinidad. Several large and important plantations +have recently been established by Frenchmen in Nicaragua. The cacao +beans of Soconusco (Central America) and Esmeralda (Ecuador) are more +highly esteemed than the finest of the Venezuela sorts; but they are +scarcely ever used in the Philippines, and cannot be said to form +part of their commerce. Germany contents itself with the inferior +kinds. Guayaquil cacao, which is only half the price of Caracas, is +more popular amongst the Germans than all the other varieties together. + +[75] C. Scherzer, in his work on Central America, gives the cacao-tree +an existence of twenty years, and says that each tree annually produces +from 15 to 20 ounces of cacao. 1,000 plants will produce 1,250 lbs. of +cacao, worth $250; so that the annual produce of a single tree is worth +a quarter of a dollar. Mitscherlich says that from 4 to 6 lbs. of raw +beans is an average produce. A liter of dried cacao beans weighs 630 +grains; of picked and roasted, 610 grains. + +[76] In 1727 a hurricane destroyed at a single blast the important +cacao plantation of Martinique, which had been created by long years of +extraordinary care. The same thing happened at Trinidad.--Mitscherlich. + +[77] F. Engel mentions a disease (mancha) which attacks the tree +in America, beginning by destroying its roots. The tree soon dies, +and the disease spreads so rapidly that whole groves of cacao-trees +utterly perish and are turned into pastures for cattle. Even in the +most favored localities, after a long season of prosperity, thousands +of trees are destroyed in a single night by this disease, just as the +harvest is about to take place. An almost equally dangerous foe to +cultivation is a moth whose larva entirely destroys the ripe cacao +beans; and which only cold and wind will kill. Humboldt mentions +that cacao beans which have been transported over the chilly passes +of the Cordilleras are never attacked by this pest. + +[78] G. Bornoulli quotes altogether eighteen kinds; of which he +mentions only one as generally in use in the Philippines. + +[79] Pili is very common in South Luzon, Samar, and Leyte; it is to be +found in almost every village. Its fruit, which is almost of the size +of an ordinary plum but not so round, contains a hard stone, the raw +kernel of which is steeped in syrup and candied in the same manner as +the kernel of the sweet pine, which it resembles in flavor. The large +trees with fruit on them, "about the size of almonds and looking like +sweet-pine kernels," which Pigafetta saw at Jomonjol were doubtless +pili-trees. An oil is expressed from the kernels much resembling +sweet almond oil. If incisions are made in the stems of the trees, +an abundant pleasant-smelling white resin flows from them, which +is largely used in the Philippines to calk ships with. It also has +a great reputation as an anti-rheumatic plaster. It is twenty years +since it was first exported to Europe; and the first consignees made +large profits, as the resin, which was worth scarcely anything in +the Philippines, became very popular and was much sought in Europe. + +[80] The general name for the beverage was Cacahoa-atl (cacao +water). Chocolatl was the term given to a particular kind. F. Hernandez +found four kinds of cacao in use among the Axtecs, and he describes +four varieties of drinks that were prepared from them. The third +was called chocolatl, and apparently was prepared as follows:--Equal +quantities of the kernels of the pochotl (Bombaz ceiba) and cacahoatl +(cacao) trees were finely ground, and heated in an earthen vessel, and +all the grease removed as it rose to the surface. Maize, crushed and +soaked, was added to it, and a beverage prepared from the mixture; to +which the oily parts that had been skimmed off the top were restored, +and the whole was drunk hot. + +[81] Berthold Seemann speaks of a tree with finger-shaped leaves +and small round berries, which the Indians sometimes offered for +sale. They made chocolate from them, which in flavor much surpassed +that usually made from cacao. + +[82] Report of the French consul. + +[83] Mysore and Mocha coffees fetch the highest prices. From $20 to +$22.50 per cwt. is paid for Mysore; and as much as $30, when it has +attained an age of five or six years, for Mocha. + +[84] In 1865-66-67 California imported three and one-half, eight +and ten million lbs. of coffee, of which two, four and five millions +respectively came from Manila. In 1868 England was the best customer +of the Philippines. + +[85] Report of the Belgian consul. + +[86] Coffee is such an exquisite beverage, and is so seldom +properly prepared, that the following hints from a master in the +art (Report of the Jury, Internat. Exhib., Paris, 1868) will not be +unwelcome:--1st. Select good coffees. 2nd. Mix them in the proper +proportions. 3rd. Thoroughly dry the beans; otherwise in roasting them +a portion of the aroma escapes with the steam. 4th. Roast them in a dry +atmosphere, and roast each quality separately. 5th. Allow them to cool +rapidly. If it is impossible to roast the beans at home, then purchase +only sufficient for each day's consumption. With the exception of the +fourth, however, it is easy to follow all these directions at home; +and small roasting machines are purchasable, in which, with the aid +of a spirit lamp, small quantities can be prepared at a time. It is +best, when possible, to buy coffee in large quantities, and keep it +stored for two or three years in a dry place. + +[87] A creeping, or rather a running fern, nearly the only one of +the kind in the whole species. + +[88] The official accounts stated that they had kidnapped twenty-one +persons in a couple of weeks. + +[89] Le Gentil, in his Travels in the Indian Seas, (1761) says: +"The monks are the real rulers of the provinces.... Their power is so +unlimited that no Spaniard cares to settle in the neighborhood.... The +monks would give him a great deal of trouble." + +[90] St. Croix. + +[91] St. Croix. + +[92] There are three classes of alcaldeships, namely, entrada, +ascenso, and termino (vide Royal Ordinances of March, 1837); in +each of which an alcalde must serve for three years. No official is +allowed, under any pretence, to serve more than ten years in any of +the Asiatic magistracies. + +[93] The law limiting the duration of appointments to this short +period dates from the earliest days of Spanish colonization in +America. There was also a variety of minor regulations, based on +suspicion, prohibiting the higher officials from mixing in friendly +intercourse with the colonists. + +[94] A secular priest in the Philippines once related to me, quite of +his own accord, what had led him to the choice of his profession. One +day, when he was a non-commissioned officer in the army, he was playing +cards with some comrades in a shady balcony. "See," cried one of his +friends, observing a peasant occupied in tilling the fields in the +full heat of the sun, "how the donkey yonder is toiling and perspiring +while we are lolling in the shade." The happy conceit of letting the +donkeys work while the idle enjoyed life made such a deep impression on +him that he determined to turn priest; and it is the same felicitous +thought that has impelled so many impecunious gentlemen to become +colonial officials. The little opening for civil labor in Spain and +Portugal, and the prospect of comfortable perquisites in the colonies, +have sent many a starving caballero across the ocean. + +[95] The exploitation of the State by party, and the exploitation of +party by individuals, are the real secrets of all revolutions in the +Peninsula. They are caused by a constant and universal struggle for +office. No one will work, and everybody wants to live luxuriously; and +this can only be done at the expense of the State, which all attempt +to turn and twist to their own ends. Shortly after the expulsion of +Isabella, an alcalde's appointment has been known to have been given +away three times in one day. (Prussian Year-Book, January, 1869.) + +[96] According to Grunow, Cladophona arrisgona Kuetzing--Conferva +arrisgona Montague. + +[97] A visita is a small hamlet or village with no priest of its +own, and dependent upon its largest neighbor for its religious +ministrations. + +[98] Pigafetta mentions that the female musicians of the King of +Cebu were quite naked, or only covered with an apron of bark. The +ladies of the Court were content with a hat, a short cloak, and a +cloth around the waist. + +[99] Perhaps the same reason induced the Chinese to purchase +crucifixes at the time of their first intercourse with the Portuguese; +for Pigafetta says: "The Chinese are white, wear clothes, and eat +from tables. They also possess crucifixes but it is difficult to say +why or where they got them." + +[100] One line here omitted.--C. + +[101] Apud Camarines quoque terrain eodem die quator decies +contremuisse, fide dignis testimoniis renuntiatum est: multa interim +aedificia diruta. Ingentem montem medium crepuisse immani hiatu, ex +immensa vi excussisse arbores per oras pelagi, ita ut leucam occuparent +aequoris, nec humor per illud intervallum appareret. Accidit hoc +anno 1628.--S. Eusebius Nieremberqius, Historia Naturae, lib. xvi., +383. Antwerpiae, 1635. + +[102] At Fort William, Calcutta, experiments have proved the +extraordinary endurance of the pine-apple fibre. A cable eight +centimeters in circumference was not torn asunder until a force +of 2,850 kilogrammes had been applied to it.--Report of the Jury, +London International Exhibition. + +[103] Sapa means shallow. + +[104] To the extraordinary abundance of these annulates in Sikkin, +Hooker (Himalayan Journal, i, 167) ascribes the death of many animals, +as also the murrain known as rinderpest, if it occurred after a very +wet season, when the leech appears in incredible numbers. It is a +known fact that these worms have existed for days together in the +nostrils, throat, and stomach of man, causing inexpressible pain and, +finally, death. + +[105] Gemelli Careri has already mentioned them. + +[106] I discovered similar formations, of extraordinary beauty and +extent, in the great silicious beds of Steamboat Springs in Nevada. + +[107] Arenas thinks that the ancient annals of the Chinese probably +contain information relative to the settlement of the present +inhabitants of Manila, as that people had early intercourse with +the Archipelago. + +[108] Probably the Anodonta Purpurea, according to V. Martens. + +[109] 1 ganta = 3 liters. 1 quiñon = 100 loànes = 2.79495 hectares = +6.89 acres. 1 caban = 25 gantas. + +[110] Scherzer, Miscellaneous Information. + +[111] More than one hundred years later, Father Taillandier +writes:--"The Spaniards have brought cows, horses, and sheep from +America; but these animals cannot live there on account of the dampness +and inundations."--(Letters from Father Taillandier to Father Willard.) + +[112] At the present time the Chinese horses are plump, large-headed, +hairy, and with bushy tails and manes; and the Japanese, elegant and +enduring, similar to the Arabian. Good Manila horses are of the latter +type, and are much prized by the Europeans in Chinese seaport towns. + +[113] Compare Hernandez, Opera Omnia; Torquemada, Monarchia Indica. + +[114] Buyo is the name given in the Philippines to the preparation of +betel suitable for chewing. A leaf of betel pepper (Chavica betel), +of the form and size of a bean-leaf, is smeared over with a small +piece of burnt lime of the size of a pea, and rolled together from +both ends to the middle; when, one end of the roll being inserted +into the other, a ring is formed, into which a smooth piece of areca +nut of corresponding size is introduced. + +[115] Twelve lines are omitted here.--C. + +[116] 4 lines are omitted.--C. + +[117] In the country it is believed that swine's flesh often causes +this malady. A friend, a physiologist, conjectures the cause to be +the free use of very fat pork; but the natives commonly eat but little +flesh, and the pigs are very seldom fat. + +[118] Compare A. Erman, Journey Round the Earth Through Northern Asia, +vol. iii, sec i, p. 191. + +[119] According to Semper, p. 69, in Zamboanga and Basilan. + +[120] The fear of waking sleeping persons really refers to the +widely-spread superstition that during sleep the soul leaves the body; +numerous instances of which occur in Bastian's work. Amongst the +Tinguianes (North Luzon) the worst of all curses is to this effect: +"May'st thou die sleeping!"--Informe, i. 14. + +[121] Lewin ("Chittagong Hill Tracks," 1869, p. 46) relates of +the mountain people at that place: "Their manner of kissing is +peculiar. Instead of pressing lip to lip, they place the mouth and +nose upon the cheek, and inhale the breath strongly. Their form of +speech is not 'Give me a kiss,' but 'Smell me.' " + +[122] Probably pot-stone, which is employed in China in the manufacture +of cheap ornaments. Gypseous refers probably only to the degree +of hardness. + +[123] In the Christy collection, in London, I saw a stone of this +kind from the Schiffer Islands, employed in a contrivance for the +purpose of protection against rats and mice. A string being drawn +through the stone, one end of it is suspended from the ceiling of the +room, and the objects to be preserved hang from the other. A knot +in the middle of the string prevents its sliding below that point, +and, every touch drawing it from its equilibrium, it is impossible +for rats to climb upon it. A similar contrivance used in the Viti +Islands, but of wood, is figured in the Atlas to Dumont D'Urville's +"Voyage to the South Pole," (i. 95). + +[124] "Carletti's Voyages," ii. 11. + +[125] "Life in the Forests of the Far East," i. 300. + +[126] According to Father Camel ("Philisoph. Trans. London," vol. xxvi, +p. 246), hantu means black ants the size of a wasp; amtig, smaller +black; and hantic, red ants. + +[127] According to Dr. Gerstaecker, probably Phrynus Grayi Walck +Gerv., bringing forth alive. "S. Sitzungsb. Ges. Naturf. Freunde, +Berl." March 18, 1862, and portrayed and described in G. H. Bronn, +"Ord. Class.," vol. v. 184. + +[128] Calapnit, Tagal and Bicol, the bat; calapnitan, consequently, +lord of the bats. + +[129] In only one out of several experiments made in the Berlin Mining +College did gold-sand contain 0.014 gold; and, in one experiment on +the heavy sand remaining on a mud-board, no gold was found. + +[130] The Gogo is a climbing Mimosa (Entada purseta) with large pods, +very abundant in the Philippines; the pounded stem of which is employed +in washing, like the soap-bark of Chili (Quillaja saponaria); and +for many purposes, such as baths and washing the hair of the head, +is preferred to soap. + +[131] A small gold nugget obtained in this manner, tested at the +Berlin Mining College, consisted of-- + + + Gold 77.4 + Silver 19.0 + Iron 0.5 + Flint earth 3. + Loss 0.1 + 100. + + +[132] The nest and bird are figured in Gray's "Genera of Birds"; +but the nest does not correspond with those found here. These +are hemispherical in form, and consist for the most part of coir +(coco fibers); and, as if prepared by the hand of man, the whole +interior is covered with an irregular net-work of fine threads of +the glutinous edible substance, as well as the upper edge, which +swells gently outwards from the center towards the sides, and expands +into two wing-shaped prolongations, resting on one another, by which +the nest is fixed to the wall. Dr. v. Martens conjectures that the +designation salangane comes from langayah, bird, and the Malay prefix +sa, and signifies especially the nest as something coming from the +bird.--("Journal of Ornith.," Jan., 1866.) + +[133] Spanish Catalogue of the Paris Exhibition, 1867. + +[134] "Informe sobre las Minas de Cobre," Manila, 1862. + +[135] According to the Catalogue, the following ores are +found:--Variegated copper ore (cobre gris abigarrado), arsenious copper +(c. gris arsenical), vitreous copper (c. vitreo), copper pyrites +(pirita de cobre), solid copper (mata cobriza), and black copper +(c. negro). The ores of most frequent occurrence have the following +composition--A, according to an analyzed specimen in the School of +Mines at Madrid; B, according to the analysis of Santos, the mean of +several specimens taken from different places:-- + + + A B + Silicious Acid 25.800 47.06 + Sulphur 31.715 44.44 + Copper 24.640 16.64 + Antimony 8.206 5.12 + Arsenic 7.539 4.65 + Iron 1.837 1.84 + Lime in traces -- + Loss 0.263 0.25 + ------- ------ + 100.000 100.00 + + +[136] According to the prices current with us, the value would be +calculated at about $12; the value of the analyzed specimen, to which +we have before referred, $14.50. + +[137] In Daet at that season six nuts cost one cuarto; and in Nags, +only fifteen leagues away by water, they expected to sell two nuts for +nine cuartos (twenty-sevenfold). The fact was that in Naga, at that +time, one nut fetched two cuartos--twelve times as much as in Daet. + +[138] N. Loney asserts, in one of his excellent reports, that there +never is a deficiency of suitable laborers. As an example, at the +unloading of a ship in Iloilo, many were brought together at one +time, induced by the small rise of wages from one to one and one-half +reales; even more hands than could be employed. The Belgian consul, +too, reports that in the provinces where the abacá grows the whole +of the male population is engaged in its cultivation, in consequence +of a small rise of wages. + +[139] An unfinished canal, to run from the Bicol to the Pasacao River, +was once dug, as is thought, by the Chinese, who carried on commerce +in great numbers.--Arenas, p. 140. + +[140] La Situation Economique de l'Espagne. + +[141] Lesage, "Coup d'Oeil," in Journal des Economistes, September, +1868. + +[142] From barometrical observations-- + + m. + Goa, on the northern slope of the Isaróg 32 + Uacloy, a settlement of Igorots 161 + Ravine of Baira 1,134 + Summit of the Isarog 1,966 + + +[143] The skull of a slain Igorot, as shown by Professor Virchow's +investigation, has a certain similarity to Malay skulls of the +adjoining Islands of Sunda, especially to the skulls of the Dyaks. + +[144] Pigafetta found Amboyna inhabited by Moors (Mohammedans) and +heathens; "but the first possessed the seashore, the latter the +interior." In the harbor of Brune (Borneo) he saw two towns; one +inhabited by Moors, and the other, larger than that, and standing +entirely in the salt-water, by heathen. The editor remarks that +Sonnerat ("Voyage aux Irides") subsequently found that the heathen +had been driven from the sea, and had retired into the mountains. + +[145] On Coello's map these proportions are wrongly stated. + +[146] "Java, seine Gestalt (its formation)" II. 125. + +[147] An intelligent mestizo frequently visited me during my +sickness. According to his statements, besides the copper already +mentioned, coal is found in three places, and even gold and iron were +to be had. To the same man I am indebted for Professor Virchow's +skull of Caramuan, referred to before, which was said to have come +from a cavern in Umang, one league from Caramuan. Similar skulls are +also said to be found at the Visita Paniniman, and on a small island +close to the Visita Guialo. + +[148] They are made of bamboo. + +[149] The fruit of the wild pili is unfit for food. + +[150] 17.375 Cent. or 63 Far.--C. + +[151] 15.6 Cent. or 60 Far.--C. + +[152] Sor Inspector por S. M. + +Nosotros dos Capnes actuales de Rancherias de Lalud y Uacloy +comprension del pueblo de Goa prov. a de Camarines Sur. Ante los pies +de vmd postramos y decimos. Que por tan deplorable estado en que nos +hallabamos de la infedelidad recienpoblados esta visitas de Rancherias +ya nos Contentamos bastantemente en su felis llegada y suvida de este +eminente monte de Isarog loque havia con quiztado industriamente +de V. bajo mis consuelos, y alibios para poder con seguir a doce +ponos (i.e. arboles) de cocales de mananguiteria para Nuestro uso y +alogacion a los demas Igorotes, o montesinos q. no quieren vendirnos; +eta utilidad publica y reconocer a Dios y a la soberana Reyna y Sofa +Doña Isabel 2a (que Dios Gue) Y por intento. + +A. V. pedimos, y suplicamos con humildad secirva proveer y mandar, +si es gracia segun lo q. imploramos, etc. Domingo Tales†. Jose +Laurenciano†. + +[153] Dendrobium ceraula, Reichenbach. + +[154] Rafflesia Cumingii R. Brown, according to Dr. Kuhn. + +[155] According to E. Bernaldez ("Guerra al Sur") the number of +Spaniards and Filipinos kidnapped and killed within thirty years +amounted to twenty thousand. + +[156] The richly laden Nao (Mexican galleon) acted in this way. + +[157] Extract from a letter of the alcalde to the captain-general, +June 20, '60:--"For ten days past ten pirate vessels have been lying +undisturbed at the island of San Miguel, two leagues from Tabaco, and +interrupt the communication with the island of Catanduanes and the +eastern part of Albay. * * * They have committed several robberies, +and carried off six men. Nothing can be done to resist them as there +are no fire-arms in the villages, and the only two faluas have been +detained in the roads of San Bernardino by stress of weather." + +Letter of June 25:--"Besides the above private ships four large pancos +and four small vintas have made their appearance in the straits of +San Bernardino. * * * Their force amounts from four hundred and fifty +to five hundred men. * * * Already they have killed sixteen men, +kidnapped ten, and captured one ship." + +[158] In Chamisso's time it was even worse. "The expeditions +in armed vessels, which were sent from Manila to cruise against +the enemy (the pirates) * * * serve only to promote smuggling, +and Christians and Moros avoid one another with equal diligence +on such occasions." ("Observations and Views," p. 73.) * * * Mas +(i. iv. 43) reports to the same effect, according to notices from the +secretary-general's office at Manila, and adds that the cruisers sold +even the royal arms and ammunition, which had been entrusted to them, +whence much passed into the hands of the Moros. The alcaldes were +said to influence the commanders of the cruisers, and the latter +to overreach the alcaldes; but both usually made common cause. La +Pérouse also relates (ii., p. 357), that the alcaldes bought a very +large number of persons who had been made slaves by the pirates +(in the Philippines); so that the latter were not usually brought to +Batavia where they were of much less value. + +[159] According to the Diario de Manila, March 14, 1866, piracy on +the seas had diminished, but had not ceased. Paragua, Calamianes, +Mindoro, Mindanao, and the Bisayas still suffer from it. Robberies and +kidnapping are frequently carried on as opportunity favors; and such +casual pirates are to be extirpated only by extreme severity. According +to my latest accounts, piracy is again on the increase. + +[160] The Spaniards attempted the conquest of the Sulu Islands in +1628, 1629, 1637, 1731, and 1746; and frequent expeditions have since +taken place by way of reprisals. A great expedition was likewise sent +out in October, 1871, against Sulu, in order to restrain the piracy +which recently was getting the upper hand; indeed, a year or two +ago, the pirates had ventured as far as the neighborhood of Manila; +but in April of this year (1872) the fleet returned to Manila without +having effected its object. The Spaniards employed in this expedition +almost the whole marine force of the colony, fourteen ships, mostly +steam gunboats; and they bombarded the chief town without inflicting +any particular damage, while the Moros withdrew into the interior, +and awaited the Spaniards (who, indeed, did not venture to land) in +a well-equipped body of five thousand men. After months of inactivity +the Spaniards burnt down an unarmed place on the coast, committing many +barbarities on the occasion, but drew back when the warriors advanced +to the combat. The ports of the Sulu archipelago are closed to trade +by a decree, although it is questionable whether all navigators +will pay any regard to it. Not long since the sovereignty of his +district was offered by the Sultan of Sulu to the King of Prussia; +but the offer was declined. + +[161] The Diario de Manila of June 4, 1866, states:--"Yesterday the +military commission, established by ordinance of the 3rd August, +1865, discontinued its functions. The ordinary tribunals are again +in force. The numerous bands of thirty, forty, and more individuals, +armed to the teeth, which have left behind them their traces of +blood and fire at the doors of Manila and in so many other places, +are annihilated. * * * More than fifty robbers have expiated their +crimes on the gallows, and one hundred and forty have been condemned +to presidio (forced labor) or to other punishments." + +[162] According to Arenas ("Memorias," 21) Albay was formerly called +Ibalon; Tayabas, Calilaya; Batangas, Comintan; Negros, Buglas; Cebu, +Sogbu; Mindoro, Mait; Samar, Ibabao; and Basilan, Taguima. Mindanao +is called Cesarea by B. de la Torre, and Samar, by R. Dudleo +"Arcano del Mare" (Florence, 1761), Camlaia. In Hondiv's map of the +Indian islands (Purchas, 605) Luzon is Luconia; Samar, Achan; Leyte, +Sabura; Camarines, Nebui. In Albo's "Journal," Cebu is called Suba; +and Leyte, Seilani. Pigafetta describes a city called Cingapola in +Zubu, and Leyte, on his map, is in the north called Baybay, and in +the south Ceylon. + +[163] No mention is made of it in the Estado geografico of the +Franciscans, published at Manila in 1855. + +[164] Small ships which have no cannon should be provided with pitchers +filled with water and the fruit of the sacchariferous arenga, for the +purpose of be sprinkling the pirates, in the event of an attack, with +the corrosive mixture, which causes a burning heat. Dumont d'Urville +mentions that the inhabitants of Solo had, during his visit, poisoned +the wells with the same fruit. The kernels preserved in sugar are an +agreeable confection. + +[165] There were also elected a teniente mayor (deputy of the +gobernadorcillo, a juez mayor (superior judge) for the fields, who is +always an ex-captain; a second judge for the police; a third judge +for disputes relating to cattle; a second and third teniente; and +first and second policemen; and finally, in addition, a teniente, +a judge, and a policeman for each visita. All three of the judges +can be ex-capitanes, but no ex-capitan can be teniente. The first +teniente must be taken from the higher class, the others may belong +either to that or to the common people. The policemen (alguacils) +are always of the latter class. + +[166] G. Squier ("States of Central America," 192) mentions a block +of mahogany, seventeen feet in length, which, at its lowest section, +measured five feet six, inches square, and contained altogether five +hundred fifty cubic feet. + +[167] According to Dr. V. Martens, Modiola striatula, Hanley, who found +the same bivalve at Singapore, in brackish water, but considerably +larger. Reeve also delineates the species collected by Cumming in the +Philippines, without precise mention of the locality, as being larger +(38 mm.), that from Catarman being 17 mm. + +[168] In Sumatra Wallace saw, in the twilight, a lemur run up the trunk +of a tree, and then glide obliquely through the air to another trunk, +by which he nearly reached the ground. The distance between the two +trees amounted to 210 feet, and the difference of height was not above +35 or 40 feet; consequently, less than l:5.--("Malay Archipelago," +i. 211). + +[169] According to W. Peters, Tropidolaenus Philippinensis, Gray. + +[170] V. Martens identified amongst the tertiary mussels of the +banks of clay the following species, which still live in the Indian +Ocean:--Venus (Hemitapes) hiantina, Lam.; V. squamosa, L.; Arca +cecillei, Phil.; A. inaequivalvis, Brug.; A. chalcanthum, Rv., and +the genera Yoldia, Pleurotoma, Cuvieria, Dentalium, without being +able to assert their identity with living species. + +[171] Tarsius spectrum, Tem.; in the language of the country--mago. + +[172] Father Camel mentions that the little animal is said to live +only on coal, but that it was an error, for he ate the ficus Indica +(by which we here understand him to mean the banana) and other +fruits. (Camel de quadruped. Phil. Trans., 1706-7. London.) Camel +also gives (p. 194) an interesting account of the kaguang, which is +accurate at the present day.--Ibid., ii. S. 2197. + +[173] The following communication appeared for the first time in +the reports of a session of the Anthropological Society of Berlin; +but my visitors were there denominated Palaos islanders. But, +as Prof. Semper, who spent a long time on the true Palaos (Pelew) +islands, correctly shows in the "Corresp.-Bl. f. Anthropol.," 1871, +No. 2, that Uliai belongs to the group of the Carolinas, I have here +retained the more common expression, Micronesian, although those men, +respecting whose arrival from Uliai no doubt existed, did not call +themselves Caroline islanders, but Palaos. As communicated to me by +Dr. Graeffe, who lived many years in Micronesia, Palaos is a loose +expression like Kanaka and many others, and does not, at all events, +apply exclusively to the inhabitants of the Pelew group. + +[174] Dumont d'Urville, Voyage to the South Pole, v. 206, remarks +that the natives call their island Gouap or Ouap, but never Yap; +and that the husbandry in that place was superior to anything he had +seen in the South Sea. + +[175] The voyages of the Polynesians were also caused by the tyranny +of the victorious parties, which compelled the vanquished to emigrate. + +[176] Pigafetta, p. 51. + +[177] Morga, f. 127. + +[178] "The Bisayans cover their teeth with a shining varnish, which +is either black, or of the color of fire, and thus their teeth become +either black, or red like cinnabar; and they make a small hole in +the upper row, which they fill with gold, the latter shining all the +more on the black or red ground."--(Thévenot, Religieux, 54.) Of a +king of Mindanao, visited by Magellan at Massana, it is written:--"In +every tooth he had three machie (spots?) of gold, so that they had +the appearance of being tied together with gold;" which Ramusio +interprets--"On each finger he had three rings of gold."--Pigafetta, +p. 66; and compare also Carletti, Voyages, i. 153. + +[179] 42 and 30 Cent. or 108 and 86 Fahr.--C. + +[180] In one of these cliffs, sixty feet above the sea, beds of mussels +were found: ostrea, pinna, chama; according to Dr. V. M.--O. denticula, +Bron.; O. cornucopiae, Chemn.; O. rosacea, Desh.; Chama sulfurea, +Reeve; Pinna Nigrina, Lam. (?). + +[181] In the Athenaeum of January 7, 1871, Captain Ullmann describes +a funeral ceremony (tiwa) of the Dyaks, which corresponds in many +points with that of the ancient Bisayans. The coffin is cut out of +the branch of a tree by the nearest male kinsman, and it is so narrow +that the body has to be pressed down into it, lest another member +of the family should die immediately after to fill up the gap. As +many as possible of his effects must be heaped on the dead person, +in order to prove his wealth and to raise him in the estimation of +the spirit world; and under the coffin are placed two vessels, one +containing rice and the other water. + +One of the principal ceremonies of the tiwa consisted formerly +(and does still in some places) in human sacrifices. Where the Dutch +Government extended these were not permitted; but sometimes carabaos +or pigs were killed in a cruel manner, with the blood of which the +high priest smeared the forehead, breast, and arms of the head of the +family. Similar sacrifices of slaves or pigs were practised amongst +the ancient Filipinos, with peculiar ceremonies by female priests +(Catalonas). + +[182] In the chapter De monstris et quasi monstris * * * of Father +Camel, London Philos. Trans., p. 2259, it is stated that in the +mountains between Guiuan and Borongan, footsteps, three times as +large as those of ordinary men, have been found. Probably the skulls +of Lauang, which are pressed out in breadth, and covered with a thick +crust of calcareous sinter, the gigantic skulls (skulls of giants) +have given rise to the fable of the giants' footsteps. + +[183] Hemiramphus viviparus, W. Peters (Berlin Monatsb., March 16, +1865). + +[184] Lehrbuch der Pharmakognosie des Pflanzenreichs (Compendium of +the "Pharmacopoeia of the Vegetable Kingdom,") p. 698. + +[185] Philos. Trans. 1699, No. 249, pages 44, 87. + +[186] At Borongan the tinaja of 12 gantas cost six reals (one quart +about two pesetas), the pot two reals, the freight to Manila three +reals, or, if the product is carried as cargo (matrose), two and +one-half reals. The price at Manila refers to the tinaja of sixteen +gantas. + +[187] Newly prepared coconut oil serves for cooking, but quickly +becomes rancid. It is very generally used for lighting. In Europe, +where it seldom appears in a fluid state, as it does not dissolve until +16° R., (20 C. or 68 Fahr.) it is used in the manufacture of tapers, +but especially for soap, for which it is peculiarly adapted. Coconut +soap is very hard, and brilliantly white, and is dissolved in salt +water more easily than any other soap. The oily nut has lately been +imported from Brazil into England under the name of "copperah," +(copra) and pressed after heating. + +[188] On Pigafetta's map Leyte is divided into two parts, the north +being called Baibay, and the south Ceylon. When Magellan in Massana +(Limasana) inquired after the most considerable places of business, +Ceylon (i.e. Leyte), Calagan (Caraga), and Zubu (Cebu) were named to +him. Pigaf., 70. + +[189] According to Dr. Gerstaecker: Oedipoda subfasciata, Haan, +Acridium Manilense, Meyen. The designation of Meyen which the +systemists must have overlooked, has the priority of Haan's; but it +requires to be altered to Oedipoda Manilensis, as the species does not +belong to the genus acridium in the modern sense. It occurs also in +Luzon and in Timor, and is closely allied to our European migratory +locusts Oedipoda migratoria. + +[190] After the king had withdrawn * * * "sweetmeats and cakes in +abundance were brought, and also roasted locusts, which were pressed +upon the guests as great delicacies."--"Col. Fytche's Mission to +Mandalay Parliament," Papers, June, 1869. + +[191] The names of these two localities, on Coello's map, are +confounded. Burauen lies south of Dagami. + +[192] 62.5 Cent. or 144.5 Fahr.--C. + +[193] A small river enters the sea 950 brazas south of the tower +of Abuyog. + +[194] Gobius giuris Buch. Ham. + +[195] The lake at that time had but one outlet, but in the wet season +it may be in connection with the Mayo, which, at its north-east side, +is quite flat. + +[196] Or some thirty-eight yards if the old Dutch ell is meant.--C. + +[197] Pintados, or Bisayas, according to a native word denoting +the same, must be the inhabitants of the islands between Luzon and +Mindanao, and must have been so named by the Spaniards from their +practice of tattooing themselves. Crawfurd ("Dict." 339) thinks these +facts not firmly established, and they are certainly not mentioned +by Pigafetta; who, however, writes, p. 80:--"He (the king of Zubut) +was ... painted in various ways with fire." Purchas ("Pilgrimage," +fo. i. 603)--"The king of Zubut has his skinne painted with a hot +iron pensill;" and Morga, fo. 4--"Traen todo il cuerpo labrado con +fuego." From this they appear to have tattooed themselves in the manner +of the Papuas, by burning in spots and stripes into the skin. But +Morga states in another place (f. 138)--"They are distinguished +from the inhabitants of Luzon by their hair which the men cut into +a pigtail after the old Spanish manner, and paint their bodies in +many patterns, without touching the face." The custom of tattooing, +which appears to have ceased with the introduction of Christianity, +for the clergymen so often quoted (Thevenot, p. 4) describes it as +unknown, cannot be regarded as a characteristic of the Bisayans; +and the tribes of the northern part of Luzon tattoo at the present day. + +[198] Mezzeria (Italian); métayer (French). + +[199] In China an oil is procured from the seeds of vernicia montana, +which, by the addition of alum, litharge, and steatite, with a gentle +heat, easily forms a valuable varnish which, when mixed with resin, is +employed in rendering the bottoms of vessels watertight. P. Champion, +Indust. Anc. et Mod. de l'Emp. Chinois." 114. + +[200] Petzholdt ("Caucasus," i. 203) mentions that in Bosslewi the +price of a clay vessel is determined by its capacity of maize. + +[201] As usual these abuses spring from the non-enforcement of a +statute passed in 1848 (Leg. ult., i. 144), which prohibits usurious +conracts with servants or assistants, and threatens with heavy +penalties all those whom, under the pretext of having advanced money, +or of having paid debts or the poll-tax or exemption from service, +keep either individual natives or whole families in a continual +state of dependence upon them, and always secure the increase of +their obligations to them by not allowing them wages sufficient to +enable them to satisfy the claims against them. + +[202] Formerly it appears to have been different with them. "These +Bisayans are a people little disposed to agriculture, but practised +in navigation, and eager for war and expeditions by sea, on account +of the pillage and prizes, which they call 'mangubas,' which is the +same as taking to the field in order to steal."--Morga, f. 138. + +[203] Ill-usage prevails to a great extent, although prohibited +by a stringent law; the non-enforcement of which by the alcaldes +is charged with a penalty of 100 dollars for every single case of +neglect. In many provinces the bridegroom pays to the bride's mother, +besides the dower, an indemnity for the rearing ("mother's milk") +which the bride has enjoyed (bigay susu). According to Colin ("Labor +Evangelico," p. 129) the penhimuyal, the present which the mother +received for night-watching and care during the bringing up of the +bride, amounted to one-fifth of the dowry. + +[204] The Asuang is the ghoul of the Arabian Nights' tales.--C. + +[205] Veritable cannibals are not mentioned by the older authors on +the Philippines. Pigafetta (p. 127) heard that a people lived on a +river at Cape Benuian (north of Mindanao) who ate only the hearts +of their captured enemies, along with lemon-juice; and Dr. Semper +("Philippines,") in '62 found the same custom, with the exception of +the lemon-juice, on the east coast of Mindanao. + +[206] The Anito occurs amongst the tribes of the Malayan Archipelago +as Antu, but the Anito of the Philippines is essentially a protecting +spirit, while the Malayan Antu is rather of a demoniacal kind. + +[207] These idol images have never come under my observation. Those +figured in Bastian and Hartmann's Journal of Ethnology +(b. i. pl. viii. Idols from the Philippines,) whose originals are in +the Ethnographical Museum of Berlin, were certainly acquired in the +Philippines, but, according to A. W. Franks, undoubtedly belong to +the Solomon Islands. Sections ii. to viii., p. 46, in the catalogue +of the Museum at Prague are entitled:--"Four heads of idols, made of +wood, from the Philippines, contributed by the Bohemian naturalist +Thaddaeus Haenke, who was commissioned by the King of Spain, in the +year 1817, to travel in the islands of the South Sea." The photographs, +which were obligingly sent here at my request by the direction of the +museum, do not entirely correspond to the above description, pointing +rather to the west coast of America, the principal field of Haenke's +researches. The Reliquiae Botanicae, from his posthumous papers, +likewise afford no information respecting the origin of these idols. + +[208] On the Island of Panay. + +[209] As an example, in anticipation of an attack on Cogseng, all +the available forces, including those of Zamboanga, were collected +round Manila, and the Moros attacked the island with sixty ships, +whereas formerly their armaments used not to exceed six or eight +ships. Torrubia, p. 363. + +[210] Hakluyt Morga, Append. 360. + +[211] According to the Mineral Review, Madrid, 1866, xvii. 244, +the coal from the mountain of Alpacó, in the district of Naga, in +Cebu, is dry, pure, almost free of sulphur pyrites, burns easily, +and with a strong flame. In the experiments made at the laboratory +of the School of Mines in Madrid it yielded four per cent. of ashes, +and a heating power of 4,825 caloria; i.e., by the burning of one +part by weight 4,825 parts by weight of water were heated to 1° +C. Good pit-coal gives 6,000 cal. The first coal pits in Cebu were +excavated in the Massanga valley; but the works were discontinued in +1859, after considerable outlay had been made on them. Four strata of +considerable thickness were subsequently discovered in the valley of +Alpacó and in the mountain of Oling, in Naga. * * "The coal of Cebu +is acknowledged to be better than that of Australia and Labuan, but +has not sufficient heating power to be used, unmixed with other coal, +on long sea voyages." + +According to the Catalogue of the Products of the Philippines (Manila, +1866), the coal strata of Cebu have, at many places in the mountain +range which runs from north to south across the whole of the island, +an average thickness of two miles. The coal is of middling quality, +and is burnt in the Government steam works after being mixed with +Cardiff coal. The price in Cebu is on the average six dollars per ton. + +[212] English Consular Report, 217. + +[213] The man credited with the development of the sugar industry +through machinery. A monument has been erected to his memory.--T. + +[214] In Jaro the leases have increased threefold in six years: +and cattle which were worth $10 in 1860, fetched $25 in 1866. Plots +of land on the "Ria," in Iloilo, have risen from $100 to $500, and +even as high as $800. (Diario, February 1867). These results are +to be ascribed to the sugar trade, which, through free exportation, +has become extremely lucrative. + +[215] In 1855 Iloilo took altogether from Negros 3,000 piculs out of +11,700; in 1860 as much as 90,000 piculs; in 1863, 176,000 piculs +(in twenty-seven foreign ships); in 1866, 250,000 piculs; in 1871, +312,379 picula from both islands. + +[216] The sugar intended for the English market cost in Manila, +in the years 1868 and 1869, from £15 to £16 per ton, and fetched in +London about £20 per ton. The best refined sugar prepared in Manila +for Australia was, on account of the higher duty, worth only £3 per +ton more in London; but, being £5 dearer than the inferior quality, +it commanded a premium of £2. Manila exports the sugar chiefly from +Pangasinan, Pampanga, and Laguna.--(From private information.) + +[217] The Islands of the East Indian Archipelago, 1868, p. 340. + +[218] Exhibition Catalogue; section, French Colonies, 1867, p. 80. + +[219] Report of the Commissioners, Exhibition 1867, iv. 102. The South +American Indians have for a long time past employed the banana fiber +in the manufacture of clothing material;--(The Technologist, September, +1865, p. 89, from unauthenticated sources,) and in Loo Choo the banana +fiber is the only kind in use (Faits Commerciaux, No. 1514. p. 36). + +[220] Abacá not readily taking tar is, consequently, only used for +running, and not standing, rigging. + +[221] A plant in full growth produces annually 30 cwt. bandala to the +acre, whereas from an acre of flax not more than from 2 to 4 cwt. of +pure flax, and from 2 to 8 cwt. seed can be obtained. + +[222] As Dr. Wittmack communicated to me, only fiber or seed can +be obtained from hemp, as when the hemp is ripe, i.e. run to seed, +the fiber becomes then both brittle and coarse. When cultivating flax +very often both seeds and fiber are used, but then they both are of +inferior quality. + +[223] Flora de Filipinas. + +[224] In 1868, £100 per ton was paid for lupis, although only imported +in small quantities--about five tons per annum--and principally used +at one time in France in the manufacture of a particular kind of +underclothing. The fashion soon, however, died out. Quitol, a less +valuable sort of lupis, could be sold at £75 per ton. + +[225] Inflexibility is peculiar to all fibers of the Monocotyledons, +because they consist of coarsely rounded cells. On the other hand, +the true bast fibers--the Dicotyledons (flax, for instance)--are +the reverse. + +[226] Through the agricultural system, also, the mestizos and natives +secure the work of their countrymen by making these advances, and +renewing them before the old ones are paid off. These thoughtless +people consequently fall deeper and deeper into debt, and become +virtually the peons of their creditors, it being impossible for them +to escape in any way from their position. The "part-share contract" is +much the same in its operative effects, the landlord having to supply +the farmer with agricultural implements and draught-cattle, and often +in addition supplying the whole family with clothing and provisions; +and, on division of the earnings, the farmer is unable to cover his +debt. It is true the Filipinos are responsible legally to the extent +of five dollars only, a special enactment prohibiting these usurious +bargains. As a matter of fact, however, they are generally practised. + +[227] This feeling of jealousy had very nearly the effect of closing +the new harbors immediately after they were opened. + +[228] Rapport Consulaire Belge, XIV., 68. + +[229] In the Agricultural Report of 1869, p. 232, another fiber was +highly mentioned, belonging to a plant very closely related to sisal +(Bromelia Sylvestris), perhaps even a variety of the same. The Mexican +name, jxtle, is possibly derived from the fact of their curiously +flattened, spike-edged leaves, resembling the dentated knives formed +from volcanic stone (obsidian) possessed by the Aztecs and termed by +them iztli. + +[230] The banana trees are well known to be among the most valuable +of plants to mankind. In their unripe state they afford starch-flour; +and when mature, they supply an agreeable and nutritious fruit, which, +although partaken of freely, will produce neither unpleasantness nor +any injurious after-effects. One of the best of the edible species +bears fruit as early as five or six months after being planted, +suckers in the meantime constantly sprouting from the roots, so that +continual fruit-bearing is going on, the labor of the growers merely +being confined to the occasional cutting down of the old plants and +to gathering in the fruit. The broad leaves afford to other young +plants the shade which is so requisite in tropical countries, and are +employed in many useful ways about the house. Many a hut, too, has to +thank the banana trees surrounding it from the conflagration, which, +generally speaking, lays the village in ashes. I should here like to +make an observation upon a mistake which has spread rather widely. In +Bishop Pallegoix's excellent work, Description du Royaume Thai ou Siam, +I*. 144, he says: "L'arbre a vernis qui est une espece de bananier, +et que les Siamois appellent 'rak,' fournit ce beau vernis qu'on admire +dans les petits meubles qu'on apporte de Chine." When I was in Bangkok, +I called the attention of the amiable white-haired, and at that time +nearly nonogenarian, bishop to this curious statement. Shaking his +head, he said he could not have written it. I showed him the very +passage. "Ma foi, j'ai dit une betise; j'en ai dit bien d'autres," +whispered he in my ear, holding up his hand as if afraid somebody +might overhear him. + +[231] In 1862, English took from Spain 156 tons; 1863, 18,074 tons; +1866, 66,913 tons; 1868, 95,000 tons; and the import of rags fell +from 24,000 tons in 1866 to 17,000 tons in 1668. In Algiers a large +quantity of sparto (Alfa) grows but the cost of transport is too +expensive to admit of sending it to France. + +[232] The British Consul estimates the receipts from this monopoly for +the year 1866-7 at $8,418,939, after an expenditure of $4,519,866; +thus leaving a clear profit of $3,899,073. In the colonial budget +for 1867 the profit on tobacco was estimated at $2,627,976, while +the total expenditure of the colony, after deduction of the expenses +occasioned by the tobacco management, was set down at $7,033,576. + +According to the official tables of the chief of the Administration +in Manila, 1871, the total annual revenue derived from the tobacco +management between the years 1865 and 1869 amounted, on an average, +to $5,367,262. By reason of proper accounts being wanting an accurate +estimate of the expenditure cannot be delivered; but it would be at +least $4,000,000, so that a profit of only $1,367,262 remains. + +[233] Instruccion general para la Direccion, Administracion, y +Intervencion de las Rentas Estancadas, 1849. + +[234] Memoria sobre el Desestanco del Tabaco en las Islas +Filipinas. Don J. S. Agius, Binondo (Manila), 1871. + +[235] The tobacco in China appears to have come from the +Philippines. "The memoranda discovered in Wang-tao leave no possible +doubt that it was first introduced into South China from the Philippine +Islands in the sixteenth and seventeenth century, most probably by +way of Japan."--(Notes and Queries, China and Japan, May 31st, 1857.) + +From Schlegel, in Batavia, it was brought by the Portuguese into +Japan somewhere between the years 1573 and 1591, and spread itself +so rapidly in China that we find even as early as 1538, that the sale +of it was forbidden under penalty of beheading. + +According to Notes and Queries, China and Japan, July 31, 1857, +the use of tobacco was quite common in the "Manchu" army. In a +Chinese work, Natural History Miscellany, it is written: "Yen t'sao +(literally smoke plant) was introduced into Fukien about the end of the +Wan-li Government, between 1573 and 1620, and was known as Tan-pa-ku +(from Tombaku)." + +[236] West Cuba produces the best tobacco, the famous Vuelta abajo, +400,000 cwt. at from $14.28 to $99,96 the cwt.; picked sorts being +valued at from $571.20 to $714.00 per cwt. Cuba produces 640,000 +cwt. The cigars exhibited in the Paris Exhibition of 1867 were worth +from $24.99 to $405.98 per thousand. The number of cigars annually +exported is estimated at about 5,000,000. (Jury Report, v., 375.) In +Jenidje-Karasu (Salonica) 17,500 cwt. are obtained annually, of +which 2,500 cwt. are of the first quality; the cost is $1.75 the oka +(about .75 per lb.). Picked sorts are worth 15s. per lb., and even +more.--Saladin Bey, La Turquie a l'Exposition, p. 91. + +[237] In Cuba the tobacco industry is entirely free. The extraordinary +increase of the trade and the improved quality of the tobacco are, +in great measure, to be ascribed to the honest competition existing +between the factories, who receive no other protection from the +Government than a recognition of their operations. --(Jury Report, +1867, v., 375.) + +[238] Basco also introduced the cultivation of silk, and had 4,500,000 +mulberry trees planted in the Camarines. This industry, immediately +upon his retirement, was allowed to fall into decay. + +[239] According to La Pérouse, this measure occasioned a revolt +in all parts of the island, which had to be suppressed by force of +arms. In the same manner the monopoly introduced into America at the +same time brought about a dangerous insurrection, and was the means +of reducing Venezuela to a state of extreme poverty, and, in fact, +was the cause of the subsequent downfall of the colony. + +[240] A fardo (pack) contains 40 manos (bundles); 1 mano=10 manojitos, +1 manojito =10 leaves. Regulations, § 7. + +[241] Regulations for the tobacco collection agencies in +Luzon.--1st. Four classes of Tobacco will be purchased. 2nd. These +classes are thus specified: the first to consist or leaves at +least 18 inches long (0m 418;) the second of leaves between 14 and +18 inches (0m 325); the third of leaves between 10 and 14 inches +(0m 232); and the fourth of leaves at least 7 inches in length (0m +163). Smaller leaves will not be accepted. This last limitation, +however, has recently been abandoned so that the quality of the +tobacco is continually deprecinting in the hands of the Government, +who have added two other classes. + +A fardo, 1st class, weighs 60 lbs., and in 1867 the Government rate +of pay was as follows:-- + + 1 Fardo, 1st class, 60 lbs $9.50 + 1 Fardo, 2nd class, 46 lbs 6.00 + 1 Fardo, 3rd class, 33 lbs 2.75 + 1 Fardo, 4th class, 18 lbs 1.00 + +--English Consular Report. + +The following table gives the different brands of cigars manufactured +by the Government, and the prices at which they could be bought in +1867 in Estanco (i.e. a place privileged for the sale):-- + + +Menas (Classes.) Corresponding Price Price Price Number +of + Havana Brands. Per arroba Per 1000. Per cigar. cigars +in + [33 lbs.]. an +arroba. + Dols. Dols. Cents. + +Imperiales. The same. 37.50 30.00 4 .. +Prima Veguéro. Do. 37.50 30.00 4 .. +Segunda Veguéro. Regalia. .. 26.00 .. .. +Prima superiór +Filipino. Do. .. 26.00 .. .. +2.a Superiór +Filipino. None. 38.00 19.00 3 .. +3.a Superiór +Filipino. Londres .. 15.10 .. .. +Prima Filipino. Superior + Habano. 21.00 15.00 2 1400 +Segunda Superior. Segunda + superior + Habano. 24.00 8.57 1/8 1 2800 +Prima Cortado. The Same. 21.00 15.00 2 1400 +Segunda Cortado. Do. 24.00 8.57 1/8 1 2800 +Mista Segunda Batído. 20.50 .. .. .. +Prima Batido, +larga. None. 18.75 .. 1 1800 +Segunda Batido, +largo. None. 18.75 .. 1/2 3750 + + +[242] On an average 407,500,000 cigars and 1,041,000 lbs. raw tobacco +are exported annually, the weight of which together is about 56,000 +cwt. after deducting what is given away in the form of gratuities. + +[243] The poor peasant being brought into this situation finds it +very hard to maintain his family. He is compelled to borrow money at +an exorbitant rate of interest, and, consequently, sinks deeper and +deeper into debt and misery. The dread of fines or bodily punishment, +rather than the prospect of high prices, is the chief method by which +the supplies can be kept up.--(Report of the English Consul.) + +[244] From December 1853 to November 1854 the colony possessed four +captains-general (two effective and two provisional). In 1850 a new +nominee, Oidor (member of the Supreme Court of Judicature) who with +his family voyaged to Manila by the Cape, found, upon his arrival, +his successor already in office, the latter having travelled by way +of Suez. Such circumstances need not occasion surprise when it is +remembered how such operations are repeated in Spain itself. + +According to an essay in the Revue Nationale, April, 1867, Spain +has had, from 1834 to 1862, i.e. since the accession of Isabella, +4 Constitutions, 28 Parliaments, 47 Chief Ministers, 529 Cabinet +Ministers, and 68 Ministers of the Interior; of which last class of +officials each, on an average, was in power only six months. For ten +years past the Minister of Finance has not remained in office longer +than two months; and since that time, particularly since 1868, the +changes have followed one another with still greater rapidity. + +[245] The reason of this premiun on silver was, that the Chinese bought +up all the Spanish and Mexican dollars, in order to send them to China, +where they are worth more than other dollars, being known from the +voyage of the galleon thither in olden times, and being current in +the inland provinces. (The highest price there can be obtained for +a Carlos III.) + +A mint erected in Manila since that time, which at least supports +itself, if the goverment has derived no other advantage from it, has +removed this difficulty. The Chinese are accustomed to bring gold +and silver as currency, mixed also with foreign coinage, to Manila +for the purpose of buying the produce of the country; and all this the +native merchants had recoined. At first only silver ounces were usually +obtainable in Manila, gold ounces very rarely. This occasioned such a +steady importation that the conditions were completely reversed. In +the Insular Treasury the gold and silver dollar are always reckoned +at the same value. + +[246] The Chinese were generally known in the Philippines as +"Sangleys"; according to Professor Schott, "sang-lui (in the south +szang-loi, also senng-loi) mercatorum ordo." "Sang" is more specially +applied to the travelling traders, in opposition to "ku," tabernarii. + +[247] ...... "They are a wicked and vicious people, and, owing to +their numbers, and to their being such large eaters, they consume +the provisions and render them dear ......It is true the town cannot +exist without the Chinese, as they are the workers in all the trades +and business, and very industrious, and work for small wages; but +for that very reason a lesser number of them would be sufficient."-- +Morga, p. 349. + +[248] "Recopilacion," Lib. iv., Tit. xviii., ley. 1. + +[249] "Informe," I., iii., 73. + +[250] The Chinese were not permitted to live in the town, but in a +district specially set apart for them. + +[251] Velarde, 274. + +[252] See following chapter. + +[253] Zuñiga, xvi. + +[254] No single people in Europe can in any way compare with the +inhabitants of California, which, in the early years of its existence, +was composed only of men in the prime of their strength and activity, +without aged people, without women, and without children. Their +activity, in a country where everything had to be provided (no +civilised neighbors living within some hundred miles or so), and +where all provisions were to be obtained only at a fabulous cost, +was stimulated to the highest pitch. Without here going into the +particulars of their history, it need only be remembered that they +founded, in twenty-five years, a powerful State, the fame of which has +spread all over the world, and around whose borders young territories +have sprung into existence and flourished vigorously; two of them +indeed having attained to the condition of independent States. After +the Californian gold-diggers had changed the configuration of the +ground of entire provinces by having, with Titanic might, deposited +masses of earth into the sea until they expanded into hilly districts, +so as to obtain therefrom, with the aid of ingenious machinery, the +smallest particle of gold which was contained therein, they have +astonished the world in their capacity of agriculturalists, whose +produce is sent even to the most distant markets, and everywhere takes +the first rank without dispute. Such mighty results have been achieved +by a people whose total number scarcely, indeed, exceeds 500,000; and +therefore, perhaps, they may not find it an easy matter to withstand +the competition of the Chinese. + +[255] The rails, if laid in one continuous line, would measure about +103,000 feet, the weight of them being 20,000 cwt. Eight Chinamen were +engaged in the work, relieving one another by fours. These men were +chosen to perform this feat on account of their particular activity, +out of 10,000. + +(The translator of the 1875 London edition notes: "This statement is +incorrect, so far as the fact of the feat being accomplished by Chinese +is concerned. Eight Europeans were engaged in this extraordinary +piece of work. During the rejoicings which took place in Sacramento +upon the opening of the line, these men were paraded in a van, with +the account of their splendid achievement painted in large letters +on the outside. Certainly not one of them was a Chinaman."--C. + +[256] Magellan fell on April 27, struck by a poisoned arrow, on +the small island of Mactan, lying opposite the harbor of Cebu. His +lieutenant, Sebastian de Elcano, doubled the Cape of Good Hope, +and on September 6, 1522, brought back one of the five ships with +which Magellan set sail from St. Lucar in 1519, and eighteen men, +with Pigafetta, to the same harbor, and thus accomplished the first +voyage round the world in three years and fourteen days. + +[257] 1565 is the date for what is now the Philippines.--C. + +[258] Villalobos gave this name to one of the Southern islands and +Legaspi extended it to the entire archipelago.--C. + +[259] "According to recent authors they were also named after +Villalobos in 1543.--Morga, p. 5. + +[260] According to Morga (p. 140) there was neither king nor governor, +but in each island and province were numerous persons of rank, whose +dependants and subjects were divided into quarters (barrios) and +families. These petty rulers had to render homage by means of tributes +from the crops (buiz), also by socage or personal service: but their +relations were exempted from such services as were rendered by the +plebeians (timauas). The dignities of the chieftains were hereditary, +their honors descended also to their wives. If a chief particularly +distinguished himself, then the rest followed him; but the Government +retained to themselves the administration of the Barangays through +their own particular officials. Concerning the system of slavery +under the native rule, Morga says (p. 41, abbreviated),--"The natives +of these islands are divided into three classes--nobles, timauas or +plebeians, and the slaves of the former. There are different sorts +of slaves: some in complete slavery (Saguiguilires), who work in +the house, as also their children. Others live with their families +in their own houses and render service to their lords at sowing and +harvest-time, also as boatmen, or in the construction of houses, +etc. They must attend as often as they are required, and give their +services without pay or recompense of any kind. They are called +Namarnahayes; and their duties and obligations descend to their +children and successors. Of these Saguiguilires and Namamahayes a +few are full slaves, some half slaves, and others quarter slaves. + +When, for instance, the mother or father was free, the only son +would be half free, half slave. Supposing there were several sons, +the first one inherits the father's position, the second that of the +mother. When the number is unequal the last one is half free and half +slave; and the descendants born of such half slayes and those who are +free are quarter slaves. The half slaves, whether or narnamahayes, +serve their lords equally every month in turns. Half and quarter slaves +can, by reason of their being partially free, compel their lord to +give them their freedom at a previously determined and unfluctuating +price: but full slaves do not possess this right. A namamahaye is +worth half as much as a saguiguilire. All slaves are natives." + +Again, at p. 143, he writes:--"A slave who has children by her lord +is thereby freed together with her children. The latter, however, +are not considered well born, and cannot inherit property; nor do the +rights of nobility, supposing in such a case the father to possess any, +descend to them." + +[261] He made the Filipinos of his encomienda of Vigan his heirs, +and has ever been held in grateful memory.--C. + +[262] Grav. 30. + +[263] Chamisso ("Observations and Views," p. 72), thanks to the +translator of Zuñiga, knew that he was in duty bound to dwell at +some length over this excellent history; though Zuñiga's narrative +is always, comparatively speaking, short and to the point. The +judiciously abbreviated English translation, however, contains many +miscomprehensions. + +[264] Principally by hiring the assassination of the gifted native +leader, Silang.--C. + +[265] Danger to Europeans, "Massacre of all white people," was a +frequent Spanish allegation in political disturbances, but the only +proof ever given (the 9th degree Masonic apron stupidly attributed +to the Katipunan in 1896) was absurd and irrelevant.--C. + +[266] Professor Jagor here follows the report sent out by the +authorities. There seems better ground for believing the affair to +have been merely a military mutiny over restricting rights which +was made a pretext for getting rid of those whose liberal views were +objectionable to the government.--C. + +[267] I take the liberty, here, of citing an instance of this. In 1861, +when I found myself on the West Coast of Mexico, a dozen backwoods +families determined upon settling in Sonora (forming an oasis in +the desert); a plan which was frustrated by the invasion at that +time of the European powers. Many native farmers awaited the arrival +of these immigrants in order to settle under their protection. The +value of land in consequence of the announcement of the project rose +very considerably. + +[268] It is called so in consequence of the island being nearly +divided in the parallel of 14° N., by two bays. + +[269] Since my return home, at the desire of that distinguished +agriculturist, Colonel Austin, of South Carolina, I have sent for +some samples of the different kinds, and under his care it will no +doubt be well treated. + +[270] On my arrival at Singapore, this circumstance was investigated by +a court of inquiry. The result showed that Mr. Knox had no knowledge +of the Vincennes having been seen; for the officer of the watch had +not reported to him the fact. + +[271] Chewing the betelnut and pepper-leaf also produces this effect, +and is carried to a great extent among these islanders. + +[272] The Sultan, on the visit of one of our merchant-vessels, +had informed the supercargo that he wished to encourage our trade, +and to see the vessels of the United States coming to his port. + +[273] This name is derived from the large bay that makes in on +the south side of the island of Mindanao, and on which a set of +freebooters reside. + +[274] From the History of a Voyage of the China Sea, by John White. + +[275] P. 115. + +[276] Pp. 116-119. + +[277] P. 121. + +[278] Pp. 125-128. + +[279] Pp. 137-138. + +[280] Pp. 143-144. + +[281] Pp. 144-146. + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Former Philippines thru Foreign +Eyes, by Tomás de Comyn and Fedor Jagor and Rudolf Ludwig Carl Virchow and Charles Wilkes + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10770 *** |
