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diff --git a/old/10751-h/10751-h.htm b/old/10751-h/10751-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..83bfe2b --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10751-h/10751-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2712 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist., by E. L. Lomax</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + +<!-- +body {text-align:justify; margin-left:5%; margin-right:5%;} +h1,h2,h3 {text-align:center;} + +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and +Scenes for the Tourist, by E. L. Lomax</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist.</p> +<p>Author: E. L. Lomax</p> +<p>Release Date: January 19, 2004 [eBook #10751]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: iso-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<center><h3>E-text prepared by P. A. Peters, Beth Trapaga,<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3></center> + +<hr> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/01Fronttiny.jpg" alt="Front Cover" + height="250" width="99" hspace="10" border="1"><img src= + "Images/02aTitlePageTiny.jpg" alt="Title Page" height="225" + width="100" hspace="10" border="1"> <img src= + "Images/02BackTiny.jpg" alt="Back Cover" height="250" width= + "99" hspace="10" border="1"></center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h1>OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.<br> +SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.</h1> +<h3>By E.L. LOMAX,<br> +General Passenger Agent,<br> +Union Pacific System,<br> +Omaha, Neb.<br> +<br> +1890</h3></center> +<hr size="3" width="100%" align="center"> +<p align="left"><b>LIST OF AGENTS.</b></p> +<p><small><b>ALBANY, N.Y.</b>—23 Maiden Lane—J.D. +TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BOSTON, MASS.</b>—290 Washington St.—W.S. CONDELL, +New England Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor.<br> + <b>BUFFALO, N.Y.</b>—40½ Exchanges St.—S.A. +HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>BUTTE, MONT.</b>—Corner Main and Broadway—General +Agt.<br> + <b>CHEYENNE, WYO.</b>—C.W. SWEET, Freight and Ticket +Agent.<br> + <b>CHICAGO, ILL.</b>—191 South Clark St.—W.H. KNIGHT, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent.<br> + ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European Immigration +Agts., 140 Kinzie St.<br> + <b>CINCINNATI, OHIO</b>—56 West 4th St.—J.D. WELSH, +Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.<br> + H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>CLEVELAND, OHIO</b>—Kennard House.—A.G. SHEARMAN, +T. F. and P. Agt.<br> + <b>COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.</b>—E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>COLUMBUS, OHIO</b>—N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.—T.C. +HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA</b>—506 First Ave.—A.J. +MANDERSON, General Agt.<br> + R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot.<br> + A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway.<br> + <b>DALLAS, TEX.</b>—H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. & +Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>DENVER, COLO.</b>—1703 Larimer St.—F.I. SMITH, +Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D., +T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>DES MOINES, IOWA</b>—218 4th St.—E.M. FORD, +Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>DETROIT, MICH.</b>—62 Griswold St.—D.W. JOHNSTON, +Michigan Pass. Agt.<br> + <b>HELENA, MONT.</b>—2 North Main St.—A.E. VEAZIE, +City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>INDIANAPOLIS, IND.</b>—Room 3 Jackson Place.—H.O. +WEBB, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>KANSAS CITY, MO.</b>—9th and Broadway.—J.B. +FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt.<br> + J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent.<br> + T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave.<br> + A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.<br> + C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St.<br> + <b>LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND</b>—23 Water St.—S. STAMFORD +PARRY, General European Agent.<br> + <b>LONDON, ENGLAND</b>—THOS. COOK & SONS, European +Passenger Agents, Ludgate Circus.<br> + <b>LOS ANGELES, CAL.</b>—51 North Spring St.—JOHN +CLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't.<br> + A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department.<br> + <b>LOUISVILLE, KY.</b>—346 West Main St.—N. HAIGHT, +Traveling Pass. Agent.<br> + <b>NEW ORLEANS, LA.</b>—45 St. Charles St.—C.B. SMITH, +General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>NEW YORK CITY</b>—287 Broadway—R. TENBROECK, +General Eastern Agent.<br> + J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent.<br> + F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OGDEN, UTAH</b>—Union Depot—C.A. HENRY, Ticket +Agent.<br> + C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + <b>OLYMPIA, WASH.</b>—2d St. Wharf.—J.C. PERCIVAL, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>OMAHA, NEB.</b>—9th and Farnam Sts.—M.J. GREEVY, +Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 +Farnam St.<br> + J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and Marey +Sts.<br> + <b>PHILADELPHIA, PA.</b>—133 South 4th St.—D.E. +BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt.<br> + L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent.<br> + <b>PITTSBURG, PA.</b>—400 Wood St.—H.E. PASSAVANT, T. +F. and P. A.<br> + THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and Passenger +Agent.<br> + <b>PORTLAND, ORE.</b>—Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.—T.W. LEE, +Gen'l Passenger Agent, Pacific Div.<br> + A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department.<br> + HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and Oak +Sts.<br> + <b>PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.</b>—Union Wharf—H.L. TIBBALS, +Jr., Ticket Agt.<br> + <b>PUEBLO, COLO.</b>—E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>ST. JOSEPH, MO.</b>—F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St. +J. & G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J. +& G.I. R.R. Div.<br> + <b>ST. LOUIS, MO.</b>—213 North 4th St.—J.F. AGLAR, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't.<br> + E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent.<br> + C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent.<br> + <b>SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH</b>—201 Main St.—J.V. PARKER, +Assistant General Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div.<br> + <b>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.</b>—1 Montgomery St.—W.H. +HURLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div.<br> + S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department.<br> + C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent.<br> + H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent.<br> + J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery +Ave.<br> + <b>SEATTLE, WASH.</b>—A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent.<br> + O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock.<br> + <b>SIOUX CITY, IOWA</b>—513 Fourth St.—D.M. COLLINS, +General Agent.<br> + GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.</b>—108 Riverside Ave.—PERRY +GRIFFIN, Passenger and Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>TACOMA, WASH.</b>—901 Pacific Ave.—E.E. ELLIS, +Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts.<br> + <b>TRINIDAD, COLO.</b>—G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T. +& Ft. W. R.R.<br> + <b>VICTORIA, B.C.</b>—100 Government St.—G.A. COOPER, +Ticket Agent.<br> + <b>WHATCOM, WASH.</b>—J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight and +Pass. Dep'ts.<br></small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<p align="center"><small><b>J.A.S. REED</b>, General Traveling +Agent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO.<br> + <b>ALBERT WOODCOCK</b>, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA, +NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="1" width="70%" noshade align="center"> +<center> +<p align="center"><small><b>E.L. LOMAX</b>, General Passenger +Agent,<br> + <b>JNO. W. SCOTT</b>, Ass't General Passenger Agent,<br> + OMAHA, NEB.</small></p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>PULLMAN'S PALACE CAR COMPANY</h2> +<p>Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and +connecting lines.</p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Routes and Prices"> +<tr> +<th width="450" align="left">PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Double Berths</th> +<th width="15" align="center">Drawing Room</th></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">$ 5.00</td> +<td align="right">$ 18.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>New York and St. Louis</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">22.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Boston and Chicago</td> +<td align="right">5.50</td> +<td align="right">20.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Chicago and Denver</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td> +<td align="right">21.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Kansas City</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">7.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>St. Louis and Omaha</td> +<td align="right">2.50</td> +<td align="right">9.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Kansas City and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.50</td> +<td align="right">15.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver</td> +<td align="right">3.50</td> +<td align="right">12.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne</td> +<td align="right">4.00</td> +<td align="right">14.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake City</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden</td> +<td align="right">8.00</td> +<td align="right">28.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte</td> +<td align="right">8.50</td> +<td align="right">32.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>C. Bluff, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or Los +Angeles</td> +<td align="right">13.00</td> +<td align="right">50.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Cheyenne and Portland</td> +<td align="right">10.00</td> +<td align="right">38.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Leadville</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">——</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Portland</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and Los Angeles</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Denver and San Francisco</td> +<td align="right">11.00</td> +<td align="right">42.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Pocatello and Butte</td> +<td align="right">2.00</td> +<td align="right">6.00</td></tr></table></center> +<center> +<p><b>For a Section, Twice the Double Berth Rates will be +charged.</b></p></center> +<p>The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of the +Pullman Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing a +full bed to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as +private, observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, reclining +chairs, buffets and kitchens. They are "<i>just the thing</i>" for +tourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private parties. The +Hunting Cars have special conveniences, being provided with +dog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be +chartered at following rates per diem (the time being reckoned from +date of departure until return of same, unless otherwise arranged +with the Pullman Company):</p> +<center> +<p><b>Less than Ten Days.</b></p></center> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Less Than Ten Days"> +<tr> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th> +<th width="35%"> </th> +<th align="center" width="10%">per day.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Hotel Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$50.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private or Hunting Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">$35.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Buffet Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">45.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Private Cars with Buffet</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Sleeping Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">40.00</td> +<td align="left" width="35%"> Dining Cars</td> +<td align="right" width="10%">30.00</td></tr></table></center> +<p>Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet, +or Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without +lay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be +given up at destination), as follows:</p> +<center> +<table border="1" width="75%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" +summary="Ten Days or Over"> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> $1.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> $35.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.00,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 45.00.</td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Where berth rate is</td> +<td> 2.50,</td> +<td>car rate will be</td> +<td> 55.00.</td></tr></table></center> +<p>For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be +increased $10.00.</p> +<p>Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. +The commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered +cars must contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-class +tickets, and another full fare ticket will be required for each +additional passenger over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars are +given up <i>en route</i>, chartering party must arrange for return +to original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary +for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be +had of any agent of the Company.</p> +<p align="center"><b>PULLMAN DINING CARS</b></p> +<p>are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled +Express, daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "The +Limited Fast Mail," running daily between Council Bluffs and +Portland, Ore.</p> +<p align="center"><b>MEALS.</b></p> +<p>All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman +Dining Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-class +meals are furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company, +by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are also +to be found at these stations.</p> +<p align="center"><b>BUFFET SERVICE.</b></p> +<p>Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Service +offered by the Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman Palace +Buffet Sleepers now run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202.</p> +<hr size="2" width="80%" noshade align="center"> +<p> </p> +<h2>SIGHTS AND SCENES IN<br> +OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.</h2> +<p>Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wild +thyme," the early explorers finding that herb growing there in +great profusion. So far as we have any record Oregon seems to have +been first visited by white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down +its shores in 1778. Captain Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia," +of Boston, Mass., discovered the noble river in 1791, which he +named after his ship. Astoria was founded in 1811; immigration was +in full tide in 1839; Territorial organization was effected in +1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. It has an +area of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 miles +wide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and +10,000,000 acres of forest in the State.</p> +<p>The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates a +series of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland +as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the +limitation of the tickets.</p> +<p><em><b>First Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to "The +Dalles," by rail, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Second Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Astoria, +Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and return by river.</p> +<p><em><b>Third Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Port +Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fourth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to Alaska +and return.</p> +<p><em><b>Fifth Columbia Tour</b></em>—Portland to San +Francisco by boat.</p> +<center> +<h3>PORTLAND</h3></center> +<p>Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated on +the Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with the +Columbia. It is perhaps true of many of the growing cities of the +West, that they do not offer the same social advantages as the +older cities of the East. But this is principally the case as to +what may be called boom cities, where the larger part of the +population is of that floating class which follows in the line of +temporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in no sense +applies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on the +solid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of a +vast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filled +with improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineral +wealth, and boundless forests of as fine timber as the world +produces, the cause of Portland's growth and prosperity is the +trade which it has as the center of collection and distribution of +this great wealth of natural resources, and it has attracted, not +the boomer and speculator, who find their profits in the wild +excitement of the boom, but the merchant, manufacturer, and +investor, who seek the surer if slower channels of legitimate +business and investment. These have come from the East, most of +them within the last few years. They came as seeking a better and +wider field to engage in the same occupations they had followed in +their Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of polite +life which they had acquired there, have established here a new +society, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Here +are as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fine +residences, as great a love of music and art, as can be found at +any city of the East of equal size.</p> +<center><img src="Images/03Portland.jpg" alt="Portland, Ore." +height="322" width="602"></center> +<p>But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any city +of its size in the United States in all that pertains to social +life, in the attractions of beauty of location and surroundings it +stands without its peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature. +What the residents of other cities see but in the copy, or must +travel half the world over to see in the original, the resident of +Portland has at his very door.</p> +<p>The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the one +side, the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, within +easy walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feet +above the river, affording a most picturesque building site. From +the very streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, the +Cascade Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St. +Helens, and Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the west +are ascended the view broadens, until, from the extreme top of some +of the higher points, there is, to the east, the valley stretching +away to the Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia and +Willamette; in the foreground Portland, in the middle distance +Vancouver, and, bounding the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, with +their snow-clad peaks, and the gorge of the Columbia in plain +sight, whilst away to the north the course of the Columbia may be +followed for miles. To the west, from the foot of the hills, the +valley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd miles to the Coast +Range, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific Ocean and +bounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood is but +little more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, which +in many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famed +Yosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The Upper +Willamette, within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beauties +equaling the Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the Lower +Columbia, beside which the Rhine and Hudson sink into +insignificance. In short, within a few hours' walk of the heart of +this busy city are beauties surpassing the White Mountains or +Adirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies within the limits of +a day's picnicking.</p> +<p>There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position of +Portland than the wealth which has accumulated here in the short +period which has elapsed since the city first sprang into +existence. Theory is all very well, but the actual proof is in the +result. At the taking of the census of 1880, Portland was the third +wealthiest city in the world in proportion to population; since +that date wealth has accumulated at an unprecedented rate, and it +is probable it is to-day the wealthiest. Among all her wealthy men, +not one can be singled out who did not make his money here, who did +not come here poor to grow rich.</p> +<p>Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point for +tourist travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerous +attractions of that wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues, +viewed a strikingly noble landscape from "The Heights," and +explored those charming environs which extend for miles up and down +the Willamette, there remains perhaps the most invigorating and +healthful trip of all—a journey either by</p> +<center> +<h3>STREAM, SOUND, OR SEA.</h3></center> +<p>There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarly +delightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River, +the all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, Puget +Sound, or the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean, +from Portland to San Francisco.</p> +<p>Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will find +solid comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the Union +Pacific Railway fleet. This River Division is separated into three +subdivisions: the Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, the +Middle Columbia from Portland to Cascade Locks, and the Upper +Columbia from the Cascades to The Dalles.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE UPPER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>First Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p>Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, on the +Union Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding into +Portland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available for +either route.</p> +<center><img src="Images/04MtAdams.jpg" alt= +"Mount Adams, Washington" height="268" width="484"></center> +<p>The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after the +long railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is a +memory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles by +rail to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within a +few miles of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to the +Upper Cascades, then a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway, +then sixty miles by steamer again to Portland. The boat leaves The +Dalles at about 7 in the morning, and reaches Portland at 6 in the +evening. The accommodations on these boats are first-class in every +respect; good table, neat staterooms, and courteous attendants.</p> +<p>This tour is planned for those who may wish to start from +Portland by the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train from +Portland to The Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to the +boat, which lies only a few yards down stream from the station. +Sleep on board, so that you may be ready early in the morning for +the stately panorama of the river. Another plan is to give a day to +the interesting country in the near vicinity. The Dalles proper of +the Columbia begin at Celilo, fourteen miles above this point, and +are simply a succession of rapids, until, nearing The Dalles +Station, the stream for two and a half miles narrows down between +walls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the flood-tides of the +spring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. The word +"Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," and +means, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding to +the oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed and +the valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers called +a chasm or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular +"a trough"—and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaint +Indian legend connected with the spot which may interest the +curious, and it runs something on this wise, Clark's Fork and the +Snake river, it will be remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form the +Columbia. It flows furiously for a hundred miles and more westward, +and when it reaches the outlying ridges of the Cascade chain it +finds an immense low surface paved with enormous sheets of basaltic +rock. But here is the legend:</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE DALLES.</h3></center> +<p>In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitants +of the world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends at +that. The whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanic +action. The craters of the Cascades were fire breathers and +fountains of liquid flame. It was an extremely fiendish country, +and naturally the inhabitants fought like devils. Where the great +plains of the Upper Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea, +which beat against a rampart of hills to the east of The Dalles. +And the great weapon of the fiends in warfare was their tails, +which were of prodigious size and terrible strength. Now, the +wisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the entire crew was one +fiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful person and viewed +with alarm the ever increasing tendency among his neighbors toward +fighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met every summer +to have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of these +reunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He took +occasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggested +that a general reconciliation take place and that they all live in +peace. The astonished fiends could not understand any such +unwarlike procedure from <i>him</i>, and with one accord, +suspecting treachery, made straight at the intended reformer, who, +of course, took to his heels. The fiends pressed him hard as he +sped over the plains of The Dalles, and as he neared the defile he +struck a Titanic blow with his tail on the pavement—and a +chasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed the waters of +the inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still pursued him, +and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a vaster +cleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrent +swept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell into +the chasm—and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had just +time to rap once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail. +And this time he was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of the +second, split the rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain that +held back the inland sea, making a gorge through the majestic chain +of the Cascades and opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It was +the crack of doom for the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell far +short of the edge, where the Devil lay panting. Down they fell and +were swept away by the flood; so the whole race of fiends perished +from the face of the earth. But the Devil was in sorry case. His +tail was unutterably dislocated by his last blow; so, leaping +across the chasm he had made, he went home to rear his family +thoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, perhaps, after +all, tails were useless. Every year he brought his children to The +Dalles and told them the terrible history of his escape. And after +a time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the inland sea was +drained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, and still the +waters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring seaward. But the +Devil had one sorrow. All his children born before the catastrophe +were crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that event +every new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondent +tail—the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs the +legend of The Dalles—a shining lesson to reformers.</p> +<p>Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins to +unfold on this lordly stream—"Achilles of rivers," as +Winthrop called it. It is difficult to describe the charm of this +trip. Residents of the East pronounce it superior to the Hudson, +and travelers assert there is nothing like it in the Old World. It +is simply delicious to those escaped from the heat and dust of +their far-off homes to embark on this noble stream and steam +smoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks with carven +imageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past islands +and falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip like +it on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equal +in the United States.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE ISLE OF THE DEAD.</h3></center> +<p>Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged island +anchored amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument which +rises from its rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige of +verdure, or tree, or shrub, appears. And Captain McNulty, as he +stood at the wheel and steadied the "Queen," said:</p> +<p>"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heard +of him, but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in the +old times. Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the early +legislatures; sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to him +with their troubles, and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, it +didn't, and he always stuck up for the Indians, and always called +his own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I used to think that was put on, +and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the way he used to talk. And a +hundred times he has said to me, 'John, when I die, I want to be +buried on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the Dead,' which we +just passed, and has been from times away back the burial place of +the Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him, +'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you: +I'm not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid away +in the cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's never +visited after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on Memaloose +Isle, I'll not be forgotten while people travel this river. And +another thing: You know, John, the dirty, mean whites stole the +Indian's burial ground and built Portland there. Everyday the +papers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's proposed palace, and how +Indian bones were turned up in the excavation. I won't be buried +alongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you further, +John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when the +Great Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going to +have any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybe +I won't be noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with their +crowd.'</p> +<p>"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the +"Queen" around a sharp headland, and the monument and island +vanished, "he has got his wish. He don't lay among the whites, and +there isn't a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain't +mentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, just as I am telling +it to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, some +of his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' and one +lovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle, +and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safe +and sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays. +She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock right +on the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column. +It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath. +Yes, sir, he's there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea? +Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with the +Chinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want a man to lose any +chances, do you?"</p> +<p>So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived +idea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing +like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower +Columbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, and +the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, +fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet of +water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five +to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the +banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to +three feet, according to season, and this tidal influence is felt, +in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles of +glorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here we leave +the steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles around +the magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twin +boat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE MIDDLE COLUMBIA.</h3></center> +<p>Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charming +spots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland; +Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into a +basin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past the +rocky walls of Cape Horn, towering up a thousand feet; past that +curious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past Fort +Vancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and just +at sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time has broadened +into noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles to +Portland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordly +river will remain a gracious possession for years to come.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE LEGEND OF THE CASCADES.</h3></center> +<p><img src="Images/05MultFalls.jpg" alt= +"MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="411" width="200" +align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">There is a quaint Indian legend +concerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in the +forgotten times there was a natural bridge across the +river—the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit had +made this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm, +solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giants +who sat always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adams +and Mount Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grew +black with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring. +And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones and +huge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted for +days, and when the smoke and the thunderings had passed away and +the sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. But +there was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands above +the lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted and +plunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream, +throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength in +treacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents—ever after +to be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. The stoutest warrior could +not live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge was +lost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down in the water +could be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spirit +caused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned to +stone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of the +scientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Science +usually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of the +mountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of a +forest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have been +recovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, as +the poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in the +centuries, but flows in the same channel here as when in the remote +ages the lava, overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathway +clear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formation +is found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showing +conclusively its sea formation. Sandstone is also at times +uncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before the +lava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be the +largest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in the +volcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness, +and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lava +formation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north as +Tacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basaltic +formation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil.</p> +<p>The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the tourist +should chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific line +from the east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight miles +distant. Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles; +Bonneville, forty-one miles, at the foot of the Cascades; five +miles farther is the stupendous government lock now in process of +building around the rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, where +tourists leave for the ascent of Mount Hood. It is about forty +miles through a picturesque region to the base of the mountain. +Then from Hood river, an ice-cold stream, twenty-two miles into +"The Dalles," where the steamer may be taken for the return trip. +In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to "The Dalles" there are +twelve miles of trestles and bridges. The railway follows the +Columbia's brink the entire distance to within a few miles of the +city. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, if they may be +so called, are bold promontories attaining majestic heights. One +timber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river with the +velocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is claimed a +log makes the trip in twenty seconds.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h3>THE LOWER COLUMBIA.</h3> +<h4><i>Second Tour—</i></h4></center> +<p><img src="Images/06Bridal.jpg" alt= +"BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="481" width="235" +align="right" hspace="12" vspace="2"> While the Upper Columbia +abounds in scenery of wild and picturesque beauty, the tourist must +by no means neglect a trip down the lower river from Portland to +Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The facilities now offered by the +Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of steamers render this a +delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may enjoy at the junction +of the Willamette with the Columbia a very wonderful +sight—five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt. +Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen +of the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling +snows sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far +from her base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a +magnificent chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, +rises in a keen pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and +landing-places line the shores, almost too numerous to mention. +There are, of the more important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia +City, Kalama, Rainier, Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at +the mouth, a busy place of 6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are +without number. It is about 98 miles by the chart from Portland to +Astoria. Across the bay is the pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and +Cape Disappointment look across to Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. +From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles to Clatsop Beach, famous +for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben Holliday's hotel. But the +fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a round trip, including a +lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to Portland next day, +and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from the town to the +outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a drive +twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, which +is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great supply +point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as San +Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very +fine.</p> +<p>The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothing +to be desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer, +made her first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feet +beam, and 10 feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. The +saloon and state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, and +handsomely decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland, +and the citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel. +In August, 1888, this steamer made the run from her berth at +Portland to the landing stage at Astoria in five hours and +thirty-one minutes. Then there are two night passenger boats from +Portland down, the ""R.R. Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," both +stern-wheelers of large size, spacious, roomy boats, well appointed +in every particular. The Thompson is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam, +and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition to these, there are two day +mail passenger and freight boats; they handle the way traffic; the +larger boats above mentioned make the run direct from Portland to +Astoria without any landings.</p> +<center> +<h3>SOME RANDOM NOTES.</h3></center> +<p>A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Sound +steamers start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points on +the Sound, and Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland.</p> +<p>One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland to +Seattle.</p> +<p>One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but she +touches at Port Townsend before proceeding north.</p> +<p>One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of +1890, about every fifteen days, from June to September.</p> +<p>The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to San +Francisco.</p> +<p>There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, and +tri-weekly between Portland and Salem.</p> +<p>On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (except +Sunday), between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily +(except Sunday), between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way, +daily (except Sunday), between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat, +daily (except Sunday), between Whatcom and Seminahmoo.</p> +<p>Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats; +on the Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage. +The steerage passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-room +separate from the first-class passengers—on the lower +deck—and are given abundance of wholesome food, tea and +coffee.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals and +berths, but it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. The +usual price for meals is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformly +excellent. Breakfast, lunch, and a 6 o'clock dinner are served.</p> +<p>The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for a +single berth to $3 per day for the bridal chamber.</p> +<p>No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Sound +steamer, but a small stock of the best brands will be found on the +Ocean steamers.</p> +<p>State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided with +one double lower and one single upper berth.</p> +<p>Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodation +of a state-room.</p> +The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about +300. +<p>The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoria +can always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union Pacific +Railway in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets.</p> +<p>Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention on +these steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railway +train. The pursers will be found polite and obliging, always ready +to point out places of interest and render those little attentions +which go so far toward making travel pleasant.</p> +<p>On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally the +smoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," and +the "After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin.</p> +<p>All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated with +steam and lighted with electricity; all have pianos and a +well-selected library. The beds on these boats are well-nigh +perfect, woven-wire springs and heavy mattresses. They are kept +scrupulously clean—the company is noted for that—and +the steerage is as neat as the main saloon.</p> +<p>One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on board +both boats and trains.</p> +<p>Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7 +a.m., arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. and +retire to their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night's +rest.</p> +<p>Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely on +the voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the ship +is never out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as a +mill-pond.</p> +<p>The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia River +Bar. The ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. The +trip, with its freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train, +and the inexorable restraint one always feels on the cars, is a +delightful one, and with larger comforts and more luxurious +surroundings, one enjoys the added pleasure of courteous and +thoughtful service from the various officers of the ship.</p> +<p>Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships in +the Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200 +horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and can +accommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat and +electric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison's +factory was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a great +curiosity, she being the first ship to use the incandescent +light.</p> +<center> +<h3>CRATER LAKE.</h3></center> +<img src="Images/07Crater.jpg" alt="CRATER LAKE, ORE." height="442" +width="246" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamath +county, Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern Pacific +Railroad at Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, and +about ninety miles from the lake, which can be reached by a very +good wagon road. The lake is about six miles wide by seven miles +long, but it is not its size which is its beauty or its attraction. +The surface of the water in the lake is 6,251 feet above the level +of the sea, and is surrounded by cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over +2,000 feet in height, and which are scantily covered with timber, +and which offer at but one point a way of reaching the water. The +depth of the water is very great, and it is very transparent, and +of a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern portion of the lake +is Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, and slightly +covered with timber. In the top of this island is a depression, or +crater—the Witches' Caldron—100 feet deep, and 475 feet +in diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a once +mighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, with +volcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of the +lake, is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above the +water, and so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from its +summit to the waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below.</p> +<p>So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of the +waters in this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripple +them; and looking from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs are +seen mirrored in the glassy surface, and it is with difficulty the +eye can distinguish the line where the cliffs leave off and their +reflected counterfeits begin.</p> +<center> +<h3>OREGON NATIONAL PARK.</h3></center> +<p>Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of the +Willamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the Oregon +National Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches. +The citizens of Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for the +reservation of this park, and a bill in conformity with the +petition passed the United States Senate in February, 1888.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Third Tour—</i></h4> +<p>From Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and +Tacoma.</p></center> +<p> </p> +<h3>WASHINGTON</h3> +<p>is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlement +by Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, the +country was known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorial +government was organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as a +State, November, 1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich in +coal and lumber, and has frequently been called the "Pennsylvania +of the Pacific Coast." The precious metals are also found in +abundance in many districts. The yield of wheat is prodigious. +Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, peaches, cherries, grapes, +and all berries flourish in the greatest profusion. Certain it is +that there is no other locality where trees bear so early and +surely as here, and where the fruit is of greater excellence, and +where there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial Exposition, +Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of visitors and +an attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory carried +off seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where thirty-three +States were represented.</p> +<p>It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forests +from Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of the +Union Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacoma +in the morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, Puget +Sound. The hills on either side are darkly green, the Sound +widening slowly as we go. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy +town of 35,000 people, full of vim, push, and energy. Twenty +million dollars' worth of property went up in flame and smoke in +Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely cold +when her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better, +stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone, +and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, pluck, and +perseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in the +future of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor +and gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, +of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, +Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in +these waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages for +sea trade are considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in the +evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The +next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about +the city, a handsome town of 14,000 people.</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/08Cascades.jpg" alt= +"CASCADES FROM THE OREGON SHORE" height="285" width="509"></center> +<p>A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria, +furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of these +drives are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surrounded +with lawns and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor. +This is the British naval station where several iron-clads are +usually stationed. There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out of +the solid rock, capacious enough to receive large vessels.</p> +<p>In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer and +take possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in the +morning. When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip, +and moving past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca, +through which we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a taste +of being at sea without any discomfort, for the water is without a +ripple. As we steam homeward there is a vision which has been +described for all time by a master hand. "One becomes aware of a +vast, white shadow in the water. It is a giant mountain dome of +snow in the depths of tranquil blue. The smoky haze of an Oregon +August hid all the length of its lesser ridges and left this mighty +summit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its splendid snows were +visible high in the unearthly regions of clear, noonday sky. Kingly +and alone stood this majesty without any visible comrade, though +far to the north and south there were isolated sovereigns. This +regal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, but more +melodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'"</p> +<center> +<h3>A LEGEND OF TACOMA.</h3></center> +<p>Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaint +legend of Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash at +Nisqually. "Tamanous," among the native Indians of this section, is +a vague and half-personified type of the unknown and mysterious +forces of Nature. There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, but +there are a thousand emanations, each one a tamanous with a small +"t." Each Indian has his special tamanous, who thus becomes "the +guide, philosopher, and friend" of every Siwash. The tamanous, or +totem, types himself as a salmon, a beaver, an elk, a canoe, a +fir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of its features this +legend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip Van Winkle; it +may prove interesting as a study in folk-lore.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me with +dusky eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our first +circulating medium was shells, a small perforated shell not unlike +a very opaque quill toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cut +square at both ends. We string it in many strands and hang it +around the neck of one we love—namely, each man his own neck. +And with this we buy what our hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it, +and he who has most hiaqua is wisest and best of all the dwellers +on the Sound.</p> +<p>"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunter +and fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old man +thought deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waited +for elk or salmon he took advice within himself from his +demon—he talked with tamanous. And always his question was, +'How may I put hiaqua in my purse?' But never had Tamanous revealed +to him the secret. There loomed Tacoma, so white and glittering +that it seemed to stare at him very terribly and mockingly, and to +know of his shameful avarice, and how it led him to take from +starving women their cherished lip and nose jewels of hiaqua, and +give them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and salmon. His +own peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting on the +sides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began to +talk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous—and then the great +secret of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and made +his preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going for +a long hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he camped +just below the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck the +summit together, for there, tamanous had revealed to him, was +hiaqua—hiaqua that should make him the greatest and richest +of his tribe. He looked down and saw a hollow covered with snow, +save at the centre, where a black lake lay deep in a well of purple +rock, and at one end of the lake were three large stones or +monuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and the morning +sunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like a +salmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to his +great joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his own +tamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking his +elk-horn pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of the +monument. At the sound of the very first blow he made, thirteen +gigantic otters came out of the black lake and, sitting in a +circle, watched him. And at every thirteenth blow they tapped the +ground with their tails in concert The miser heeded them not, but +labored lustily for hours. At last, overturning a thin scale of +rock, he found a square cavity filled to the brim with hiaqua.</p> +<p>"He was a millionaire.</p> +<p>"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him as +a favorite of Tamanous.</p> +<p>"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plunge +his arm, there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elk +sinews, fifty shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed, +so he prepared to depart. He loaded himself with countless strings +of hiaqua, by fifties and hundreds, so that he could scarcely +stagger along. Not a string did he hang on the tamanous of the elk, +or the salmon, or the kamas—not one—but turned eagerly +toward his long descent. At once all the otters plunged back into +the lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; a thick, +black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms in +the mountains—and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly the +fierce whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flung +over icy banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter night +was around him, and in every crash and thunder of the gale was a +growing undertone which he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous. +Floating upon this undertone were sharper tamanous voices, shouting +and screaming, always sneeringly, 'Ha, ha, hiaqua!—ha, ha, +ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue his descent the +whirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, flinging +him into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snow +drift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharp +lava jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew ever +deeper and more crowded with perdition; the din more impish, +demoniac, and devilish; the laughter more appalling; and the miser +more and more exhausted with vain buffeting. He at last thought to +propitiate exasperated Tamanous, and threw away a string of hiaqua. +But the storm was renewed blacker, louder, crueler than before. +String by string he parted with his treasure, until at the last, +sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a despairing cry, he cast +from him the last vestige of wealth, and sank down insensible.</p> +<p>"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He was +upon the very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry, +and made a hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamas +root, and took a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, he +became aware of an odd change in his condition. He was not bruised +and wounded, as he expected, but very stiff only, and his joints +creaked like the creak of a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. His +hair was matted and reached a yard down his back. 'Tamanous,' +thought the old man. But chiefly he was conscious of a mental +change. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and wealth seemed to have +lost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like gold and silver and +precious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign comrade and +friend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought he had +never wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on his +downward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed since +yesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where his +lodge used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning a +song; she was decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads. +It was his wife; and she told him he had been gone many, many +years—she could not tell how many; that she had remained +faithful and constant to him, and distracted her mind from the +bitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas and magic herbs, and had +thus acquired a genteel competence. But little cared the sage for +such things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at peace, and near +his own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in a place of +security. He imparted whatever he possessed—material +treasures or stores of wisdom and experience—freely to all +the land. Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear the +salmon, chase the elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the great +medicine man of the Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe and +race. Within a year after he came down from his long nap on the +side of Tacoma, a child, my father, was born to him. The sage lived +many years, revered and beloved, and on his death-bed told this +history to my father as a lesson and a warning. My father dying, +told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, and lest this +wisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again obliged to +interpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston tyee. +Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlier +age, but profit by it and be wise!"</p></blockquote> +<p>So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades of +Fort Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at the +close, that he was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet his +whistle."</p> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/09RoosterRock.jpg" alt= +"ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER, ORE." height="309" width= +"565"></center> +<p>The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is in +a highly prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grand +Alaskan tour, winding up through all the wonders of sound and +strait, bay and ocean, to the far North summerland—a trip of +most entrancing interest. The return from Tacoma to Portland may be +made by either rail or boat.</p> +<p>So much has already been said in preceding pages about Puget +Sound that it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone. +But it still remains to be said that justice can never be done to +the scenic glories of this beautiful inland sea. The views from +different points, and from almost every point on the Sound, are of +sublime grandeur. On the east are the Cascade Mountains, ranging +from 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount Rainier for Tacoma, (as +it is also called) being of the latter altitude, and only third in +height of the mountains of the United States. On the west are the +Olympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to 8,000 +feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at the +same time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety, +with its continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can not +be excelled. Strangers and travelers who have visited every part of +the world never leave the deck of the steamers while going through +the waters of the Sound country. In noting a single feature, Mount +Rainier, Senator George F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have been +through the Swiss mountains, and am compelled to own that there is +no comparison between the finest effects exhibited there and what +is seen in approaching this grand and isolated mountain. I would be +willing to go 500 miles again to see that scene. The Continent is +yet in ignorance of what will be one of the grandest show places, +as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly called the +play-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of Mt. +Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for America +only, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites for +building purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of the +view that can be obtained from them, with topographical features +that would make the most perfect system of drainage both possible +and easy, and with a most agreeable and health-giving climate."</p> +<p>A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is the +grandest scenery in the world. One has here in combination the +sublimity of Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, the +rugged beauty of Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islands +of the St. Lawrence, or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft, +rich-toned skies of Italy, the pastoral landscape of England, with +velvet meadows and magnificent groves, massed with floral bloom, +and the blending tints and bold color of the New England Indian +summer. Features with which nothing within the vision of another +city can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range of mountains +in front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the Rainier, +Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes of +eternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feet +high, near by."</p> +<center><img src="Images/10StHelens.jpg" alt="MOUNT ST. HELENS" +height="329" width="598"></center> +<p>The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonder +and a study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and water +seem to have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Strait +of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow into +Admiralty Inlet; the inlet penetrates the very heart of the +Territory, cutting the land into most grotesque shapes, circling +and twisting into a hundred minor inlets, into which flow a hundred +rivers, fed in their turn by myriads of smaller creeks and +bayous—a veritable network of lakes, streams, peninsulas, and +islands which, with the mountain ranges backing the landscapes on +either hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the extreme. Here on +the placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure seeker can enjoy +all the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean travel +without its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness to +reflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, the +steady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters, +takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams. +This "Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length and +breadth is adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formed +islands. The giant firs are the tallest and straightest in the +world. Here the "Great Eastern" came for her masts, and here +thousands of ships obtain their spars yearly.</p> +<p>To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A ride +over these placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, among +woody mountains, along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues of +velvety meadows—all 'neath the shadows of towering, snow-clad +peaks, is a delight worth days of travel to experience. It +enraptures the artist and enthuses even ordinarily prosy folks. +There is no single feature wanting to make of such places as +Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful and +agreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificent +and picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays for +yachting purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of every +description to be had, with a climate that would charm a +misanthrope, why should they not become the favorite resorts on the +Great West Coast? These facts led to the building of the +magnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a million +dollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time Puget +Sound will be famous the world over for its incomparable +attractions for the health and pleasure seeker.</p> +<p>The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderful +resources of this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 miles +of shore line, and all along this long stretch is one vast and +almost unbroken forest of enormous trees. The forests are so vast +that, although the saw-mills have been ripping 500,000,000 feet of +lumber out of them every year for the past ten years, the spaces +made by these inroads seem no more than garden patches. An official +estimate places the amount of standing timber in that area at +500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at the +enormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed.</p> +<p>In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are a +number of popular resorts for sportsmen and campers—beautiful +lakes filled with voracious trout, and streams alive with the +speckled mountain beauties. The forests abound in bear and deer, +while grouse, pheasants, quail, and water-fowl afford fine sport to +the hunter of small game.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE NEW EMPIRE OF EASTERN WASHINGTON.</h3></center> +<p>The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided in +the most important way the development of the richest and most +fertile lands of Eastern Washington. The great plains of the Upper +Columbia, stretching from the river away to the far north, are +incomparably rich, the soil of great depth and wondrous fertility, +rainless harvests, and a luxuriance of farm and garden produce +which is almost tropical in its wealth. This favored region has +been for years known as the</p> +<center> +<h3>PALOUSE COUNTRY,</h3></center> +<p>and is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line of +the Union Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the north +the soil is rich beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep that +it seems well-nigh inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates in +the valleys, and while the uplands are not so rich, still immense +crops of wheat are raised. For hundreds of miles on this new +division of the Union Pacific the country is a perfect garden land +of wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of mammoth +proportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all the +requirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making of +one vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels of +wheat has been harvested in one valley.</p> +<p>The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid country +seem almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have been +raised on 1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as +74¼ bushels of wheat to the acre have been harvested in this +section. The average covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels per +acre, and no fertilizers of any sort being required. The berry in +its full maturity is very solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds per +bushel, this being from five to nine pounds over standard weight. +While wheat is the staple product, oats are also grown, the yield +being very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax are also successfully +cultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow finely.</p> +<p>In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire of +Eastern Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recent +agricultural fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits, +vegetables, and cereals. These included the best qualities of +Yellow Nansemond sweet potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties, +eggplant, sorghum and syrup cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes, +cotton, peanuts, and many other things, some of which do not attain +to so high a degree of excellence elsewhere farther north than the +Carolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes of superior quality +delighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed continuously, from, +the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the 15th of October. +There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at the New +Orleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of the +best qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley, +and hops.</p> +<p>The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months is +obvious. The wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the straw +on the ground for its enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, and +sacking are largely dispensed with. The grain, when threshed, is +piled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the expense of granaries +and hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost for each bushel +of grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers elsewhere +are subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries and +through a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard.</p> +<p>Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow to +an enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared with +the same varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require much +heat, as melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to great +perfection. The root crops—beets, carrots, parsnips, +potatoes, turnips, etc.—yield prodigiously on the fertile +bottom-land soils, without much care besides ordinary cultivation. +The table beet soon gets too large for the dinner-pot. It is +nothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, and they +often grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, the +stock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, if +given room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made to +produce twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All other +vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes, +onions, cabbages, celery, and cauliflower, are perfectly at home on +every farm of Eastern Washington. Market gardening is becoming +quite an important pursuit, and holds out particularly high +inducements to the farmer, because of the superb market now +afforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easily +accessible in this and adjacent Territories.</p> +<p>There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in this +magnificent region, and there has never been a crop failure since +its settlement. Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4 +to $10 per acre for unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improved +lands.</p> +<p><img src="Images/11HorseTail.jpg" alt="HORSE TAIL FALLS, ORE." +height="466" width="230" align="left" hspace="20" vspace="2">Along +the line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be found +many energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those social +and educational facilities which are now a part of every Western +village. Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustling +young city, situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla, +Athena, Weston, Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa, +Colfax, Moscow, Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns, +and are already good distributing centers. The last-named town +enjoys the advantage of being in the center of a fine lumber +district, and within a circuit of five miles from Rockford there +are ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible supply of mica. +Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead mines are +found along the Coeur d'Alene River.</p> +<p>Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about +1,000 population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distant +is the boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract, +thirty by seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeur +d'Alene Lake and the three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeur +d'Alene, which empty into it. There about 250 Indians on this +reservation, and they enjoy the proud distinction of being the only +tribe who refuse Government aid. They have been offered the usual +rations, but preferred to remain independent. They live in houses, +farm quite extensively, and use all kinds of improved farm +machinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The lake is one of the +prettiest sheets of water on the continent; its waters are full of +salmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many varieties of game, +from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of Rockford will in +the near future assume importance as a tourist point, both from its +own healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to Coeur +d'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on a +settlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of this +noble domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiar +attractions of Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a much +sought for resort.</p> +<center> +<h3>SPOKANE FALLS</h3></center> +<p>is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressive +West. When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Not +a single civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. One +day in 1878 a white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wild +rapids and the mighty falls of the Spokane River, reflected on the +history of St. Paul and Minneapolis with their little Falls of St. +Anthony, looked at the tide of immigration just turning toward the +farther Northwest, and concluded he would sit right down where he +was and wait for a city to grow around him. This far-sighted +pioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling falls, and +they make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with him, +22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000. +For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds and +foamy waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories, +railroad lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches, +theatres, school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, paved +streets, and all that makes living easy and comfortable. The +greater part of this has come within his vision since 1883. But +even then there was quite a village. After this pioneer had spent a +lonely year or two on his homestead, two other men came along. They +were friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced to meet. They were +captivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer told them of +the fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they offered +each to take a third of his holding. Then they began to advertise, +and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They were +wise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fill +the country with grain-producers than to sell real estate around +the falls. They soon had their reward. The merchants were quickly +provided with store-houses, rental values were kept low, every +inducement was offered that could possibly stimulate building +activity, and in three years the farming country was made to +perceive that Spokane was its natural point of entry and of +shipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a clear and +beautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, and +directed wherever the factories and mills that had been established +above them required their services. Four large flouring-mills +quickly took advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of this +unique situation.</p> +<p>From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to draw +their supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured for +the farmers more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. This +circumstance alone exercised a large influence in giving the new +town a hold upon the country districts. These constitute more than +a region—they are really a grand division of the State, and +form what is known as the Great Plain of the Columbia River.</p> +<center> +<h3>THE COEUR D'ALENE MINES</h3></center> +<p>have reached a high and profitable state of development. These +mines extend over a comparatively limited area. They are close +together, and their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are all +similar. Their output for the last three years has been quite +remarkable, and has placed the Coeur d'Alene district among the +foremost lead-producing regions in the country. Gold, associated +with iron, and treated by the free-milling process, is largely +found in the northern part of the district, but the greatest amount +of tonnage is derived from the southern country, where the Galena +silver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. That +minerals in large quantity existed in this country has been known +for years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long while +prevented any serious effort to get at them. The matter of +transportation is now laid at rest, and within the last three years +$1,000,000 has been spent in development. The returns have already +more than justified the investment.</p> +<p>Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads now +in operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville, +Okanagan, Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are in +various stages of development, but their wealth and availability +have been clearly ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degree +greater than that of most all these new cities, consists of young +men and young women from the New England and Middle States. They +have enjoyed a remarkable and wholly uninterrupted period of +prosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and immensely rich from +real estate operations, but the great majority have yet to realize +on their investments because of the large sacrifices they have made +in building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable position. +As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in street +railroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building of +comfortable houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, and +in a large number of local improvements, every one of which has +borne its part in making the city attractive.</p> +<center> +<h3>WONDERFUL VITALITY.</h3></center> +<p>It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was another +fire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt."</p> +<img src="Images/12Oneonta.jpg" alt="ONEONTA GORGE" height="503" +width="254" align="right" hspace="20" vspace="2"> +<p>If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in its +four great fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, and +Spokane, it is the strongest evidence that its recuperative powers +have solid backing. It does seem to stand the loss, and actually +thrive under it.</p> +<p>The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889, +burned most of the business portion of the city. Four hundred and +fifty houses of brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing a +loss, according to the computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun +& Co., of about $4,500,000.</p> +<p>The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000.</p> +<p>No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, and +none ever met it with braver hearts or with quicker and more +resolute determination to survive the blow.</p> +<p>The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity. +Its population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were in +process of construction, its trade was extending over a vast region +of country which was being penetrated by new railroads centering +within its limits, and there were flowing to it the rich fruits of +half a dozen prosperous mining districts.</p> +<p>Its working people were all employed at good wages, and money +was abundant with all classes.</p> +<p>Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon the +scene of smoking desolation, when preparations began for +rebuilding. It was felt at once that the city would be rebuilt more +substantially and more handsomely than before.</p> +<p>The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale; +the city will be entirely restored within twelve months, and far +more attractively than ever before. The class of buildings erected +are of a very superior character. The new Opera House has been +modeled after the Broadway Theatre, New York; the new Hotel +Spokane, a structure creditable not only to the city, but to the +entire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank buildings, at a cost +of $100,000 each; upon the burned district have arisen buildings +solid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, varying from +five to seven stories in height, and costing all the way from +$60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arises +from her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, than +before. And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the future +of Spokane Falls.</p> +<p>It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent, +including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portion +east of the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, the +northern and eastern portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana, +and as much of British Columbia as would make a State as large as +New York.</p> +<p>It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, the +Colville, the Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all of +which are in a prosperous condition, and all of which are yielding +rich and growing tributes of trade.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in the +world, producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the production +of fruits and vegetables.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between the +Cascade and Rocky Mountains.</p> +<p>It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which are +hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses.</p> +<p>It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeur +d'Alene, inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedar +and tamarack, the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of the +important industries of the city, and a source of great future +income.</p> +<p>It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to none +in the United States, and capable of supplying construction room +and power for 300 different mills and manufactories. The entire +electric lighting plant of the city, the cable railway system, the +electric railway system, the machinery for the city water works, +and all the mills and factories of the city—the amount of +wheat which was last year ground into flour exceeding 20,000 +tons—are now operated by the power from the falls. One +company alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capital +of $1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in the +construction of flumes and other improvements for the accommodation +of new mills and factories.</p> +<p>Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties and +improvements on the falls and along the river were saved from the +fire.</p> +<p>The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half a +million dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000 +gallons daily, or as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it had +a population of 100,000, or as much as the present supply of Denver +with a population of 120,000, and more than the City of Portland, +Oregon, with a population of 60,000.</p> +<center> +<h3>A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SPOKANE FALLS.</h3></center> +<p>It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, no +very lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone to +understand without difficulty some of the minor reasons why Spokane +Falls should become a great and important city, the metropolis of a +vast surrounding country. A glance at the map will show the +mountain range that extends up through the Idaho Panhandle, and +then along the British Columbia frontier, to the east and north of +the city. These mountains are incalculably rich in ores of all +kinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane Falls, +even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. The +Spokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of water +sixty miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary and +Coeur d'Alene Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until it +empties its waters into the Columbia, the Mississippi of the +Pacific Coast. From its point of junction with the Spokane, the +Columbia makes a big bend in its course until the Snake River is +reached, when it turns once more westward, and flows on to empty +into the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching westward for +some distance from the mountains, and extending in a southerly +direction to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast country +comprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River and +its tributary streams meander, and which is known as the Palouse +Valley, a country of unlimited agricultural resources. In the +center of all this immense territory is located Spokane Falls, like +the hub in the center of a wheel. The word immense is not used +unwittingly, for the mountains and plains and valleys make up a +country that in Europe would be called a nation, and in New England +would form a State. Only a far-off corner of the Union, it may seem +to some readers, yet there are powerful empires which possess less +natural resources than it can call its own. The city itself lies on +both sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that stream, +separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushes +onward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, and +then tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and useful +waterfalls, until the several streams unite once again for a final +plunge of sixty feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance of +half a mile. This waterfall, with its immense power, would alone +make a city; engineers have estimated its force at 90,000 +horse-power, and it is so distributed that it can be easily +utilized.</p> +<center><img src="Images/13FishWheel.jpg" alt= +"A FISH WHEEL, COLUMBIA RIVER" height="300" width="528"></center> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fourth Tour</i>—To</h4></center> +<h3>ALASKA.</h3> +<p>The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which +signifies "great country," and the word has been corrupted into +"Alaska." This immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold by +Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. The +country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an area +of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as all +the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve +States the size of New York.</p> +<p>The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. The +latter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but +the days begin to grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-five +days.</p> +<p>As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally +follows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for +a lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and +coarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should be +provided.</p> +<p>There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire +to remain over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when and +where the steamer goes, will have an opportunity to see all there +is of note or worth seeing in Southeastern Alaska. The steamer +sometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 58th +degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in the +stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through new +channels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest, +until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is +reached.</p> +<p>A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald" +has written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888. +It is so charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full of +interesting detail, that it is given herewith entire:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER,"</p> +<p>PUGET SOUND, September, 1888.</p> +<p>We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealth +and wonders of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried in +the belief that all the cataracts of other lands were tame; but we +changed our mind when we stood on the brink of Great Shoshone +Falls. In Yellowstone the proudest thought was that all the world's +other similar wonders were commonplace; and at Yosemite's +Inspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and delight was +richly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such majesty +or glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that it +yet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one's +appreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our native +land.</p> +<p>Some of our most delighted <i>voyageurs</i> are from Portland, +Maine. When they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha they +imagined themselves at least half way across our continent. Then, +when they had finished that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 miles +more from Omaha to Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of the +Union Pacific, they were quite sure of it. Of course, they +confessed a sense of mingled disappointment and eager anticipation +when they learned that they were yet less than half way. They +learned what is a fact—that the extreme west coast of Alaska +is as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is east of Portland, +Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks 4,000 mile's +of being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at extreme +Western Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain one +river—the Yukon—about as large as the Mississippi, and +a coast line about twice as long as all the balance of the United +States. It is twelve times as large as the State of New York, with +resources that astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogether +bad, as some would have it. The greatest trouble is that during the +eighteen years it has been linked to our chain of Territories it +has been treated like a discarded offspring or outcast, cared for +more by others than its lawful protector. But, like many a refugee, +it is carving for itself a place which others will yet envy. But, +to</p> +<h4>OUR TRIP.</h4> +<p>There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a week +of delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in Platte +Cañon, and other Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, we +indulged in that delicious plunge at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake, +and, en route to Portland over the Union Pacific Ry., quaffed that +all but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and dropped off a day to +take a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all seriousness, have +attractions of which even our great Niagara can not boast. We found +that glorious dash down through the palisades of the Columbia, and +the sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, a +fitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey.</p> +<p>The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, so +placid and quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and so +exquisitely beautiful the environment. The route keeps along the +east shore of Vancouver Island its entire length, through the Gulf +of Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out into Queen Charlotte Sound, +where is felt the first swell of old ocean, and our staunch +steamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four hours. +Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, with +no hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch would +give his orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to some +passage leading to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamer +had to wait for the tide; then would she weave in and out, like a +shuttle in a loom, among the buoys, leaving the black ones on the +left and the red ones on the right, and ever and anon they would be +in a straight line, with the wicked boulder-heads visible beneath +the surface or lifting their savage points above, compelling almost +a square corner to be turned in order to avoid them. At such times +the passengers were all on deck, listening to the captain's +commands, and watching the boat obey his bidding.</p> +<p>From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, and +here was the first stop for the tourists. The event here was going +ashore in rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirty +Indians—a foresight of what was to follow—and a +salmon-packing house not yet in working order.</p> +<p>From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fill +the water, while the mainland is on the right and Prince of Wales +Island on the extreme left.</p> +<h4>FORT WRANGEL.</h4> +<p>Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaks +along the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. It +seems to be the generic home of storms, and the mountains, the +rocks, the buildings, and trees, and all, show the weird workings +of nature's wrath. In 1863 it was a thriving town where miners +outfitted for the mines of the Stikeen river and Cassian mines of +British Columbia; but that excitement has temporarily subsided, and +the $150,000 government buildings are falling in decay. The streets +are filled with debris, and everything betokens the ravages of +time. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the trip +here towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent a +history of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it. +If they are of the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top of +the pole, and then on down with various signs to the base, the +great events of the family and the intermarriages, not forgetting +to give place to the good and bad gods who assisted them. The +genealogy of a tribe is always traced back through the mother's +side. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four feet +at the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmly +in front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At the +lower end, some four feet from the ground, there is an opening into +the already hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of the +burned bodies of the family. It is only the wealthier families who +support a totem pole, and no amount of money can induce an Indian +to part with his family tree.</p> +<h4>THE GRAVES</h4> +<p>of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scattered +on the mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bones +are put in a box with all the belongings of the deceased, and then +deposited anywhere. The natives are exceedingly superstitious and +jealous in their care of the dead, and would sooner die than molest +or steal from a grave. That tourists who are supposed to be +civilized, refined, and Christianized should steal from them is a +crime which should never be tolerated, as it was among the +passengers of our steamer.</p> +<h4>JUNEAU—THE TREADWELL MINE.</h4> +<p>After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay to +lighter eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau and +Douglas Islands. Here was the same general appearance of location, +the gigantic background of densely wooded mountains, the +tide-washed streets, on broken slopes, the dirty native women with +their wares for sale, with prices advanced 200 per cent, since the +steamer whistled, and behind them their stern male companions, +goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily kicking them in +their crouched positions if they came down on their prices to an +eager but economical tourist.</p> +<p>Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. It +has arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it +is now the mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I. +Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for +conducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr. +Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of +"Tramway Life" in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full of +interest. It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will see +to it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did in +the land of the greasers. The festive dog is all right in his +place, but rather revolting to an epicure.</p> +<p>The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas +Island. It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for +its vast extent. The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise +that there is no fear that the curious minded will cause +employés to waste any time answering questions, for nothing +can be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and the +crunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an addition of +120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole blasted +by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the +circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel +to the mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and +will double that when the mill is completed.</p> +<p>There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society +people are charming indeed. The business houses carry some large +stocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon +country is all done at this place. There are two weekly papers, one +the <i>Mining Record</i>, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which +deserves a liberal support.</p> +<p>One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip +was a dance given by the Indians at</p> +<h4>A "POTLATCH,"</h4> +<p>a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its +primary sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset, +or during the progress of some important event, such as the +building of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating +any good fortune, either of peace or war. In this instance, a +sub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosed +in rough boards with no floor laid. There is never but one entrance +to an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated several feet from +the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside as +well as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was really +in a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and this +was the second day of merry-making.</p> +<p>There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of the +town. The water was black with canoes coming to the feast and +dance, bringing gifts to the tyhee, who, in return, gives them +gifts according to their wealth, and a feast of boiled rice and +raisins and dog-meat. The richest men of the tribe dressed, in the +rear of the building, in the wildest and most fantastic garbs, some +in skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply of blankets, +feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an old broom +was covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added to +their usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red and +black in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was rigged +for a head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran with +fiendish yells toward the beach, some twenty yards, and there +behind a canvas facing the water they began their strange +dance.</p> +<p>Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee +(chief) giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird with +white breast, called the loon. While dancing he picked the white +feathers and scattered them on the heads of the others. The other +squaws were sitting on the ground in long rows in front of the +canoes reaching to the water's edge, about 200 feet below.</p> +<p>Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and the +dancing is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motion +given to the time given by the voices, and they only advanced a few +inches in an hour's time.</p> +<p>The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative men +dressed in the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When the +canoes glided onto the beach, four abreast, it was the signal to +drop the canvas hiding the host and party, and advance a little +distance to meet them. Then they broke ranks and made way for the +visitors to approach the house with their gifts of blankets or +other valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians convert their +riches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in an +ordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all points +visited. None of them are poor, all have some money, and many +have</p> +<h4>WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS.</h4> +<p>To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but the +odors arising from the homes of the best of them are such as a +civilized nose never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish, +pelts, decaying animals, and human filth made the strongest perfume +known to the commercial or social world.</p> +<p>The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have +their faces painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great +many wear a wooden or ivory pin thrust through the lip just below +the fleshy part. It is worn for ornament, the same as ear-rings or +nose-rings, and is called a labret. The missionary work done among +them is a commendable one, but it seems a hopeless task. Their +houses are always built with one object in view, to be able to tie +the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts just above +high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that +country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and +the timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel +for the cutting.</p> +<center><img src="Images/15Granville.jpg" alt= +"GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA" height="256" width="466" align= +"top"></center> +<p>Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from +Juneau, and it is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the +goat's wool, woven by hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked +from grotesque patterns. Here, also, are two of the largest salmon +canneries in Alaska, and here, indeed, were we in the</p> +<h4>LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.</h4> +<p>The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At +midnight the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper +easily. Then the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal +splendor until 3.30 in the morning, when old Sol again put in his +claims for admission. He lifted his golden head above the snowy +peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light of unfolding dawn by +drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and sending floods of +radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to be +forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime.</p> +<p>Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening +was on the grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire +trip, or of any other in America, now opened out before many eager +eyes. For several days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the +smooth surface from the great glaciers, and speeding to the +southern seas like phantom ships. As the ship neared the bay, these +huge bergs increased in size and number, with such grotesque and +weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in shaping turrets, ghosts, +goblins, and the like, each moment developing more and more of +things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting with the +strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an explosion +of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see the +birth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with a +stupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as to +send our great ship careening on her side when the swell from the +disturbed waters strikes her.</p> +<p>The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, as +it is the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicular +height of 350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of the +Glacier Bay, which is estimated from three to five miles in width. +The Muir and Davidson glaciers are two arms of that great Ice field +extending more than 400 miles in length, covering more area</p> +<h4>THAN ALL SWITZERLAND,</h4> +<p>and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream is +as large as the Great Rhone glacier.</p> +<p>Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river which +bears these mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roar +like distant artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, the +advancing walls of this great monster split and fall into the +watery deep, which has been sounded to a depth of some 800 feet +without finding anchor.</p> +<p>The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts and +crevices, towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hill +monument, cutting the air at all angles, and with a stupendous +crash sections break off from any portion without warning and sink +far out of sight. Scarcely two minutes elapse without a portion +falling from some quarter. The marble whiteness of the face is +relieved by lines of intense blue, a characteristic peculiar to the +small portions as well as the great.</p> +<p>Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandy +beach was first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land. +There were acres of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were most +delicately carved by the soft winds and the sunlight reflections +around and in the arches of ice, such as are never seen except in +water, ice, and sky.</p> +<h4>MOUNTAINS OF ICE,</h4> +<p>remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on one +point, or perchance on two points, and arched between. These +icebergs were dotted with stones imbedded; great bowls were melted +out and filled with water, and little cups made of ice would afford +you a drink of fresh water on the shore of this salt sea.</p> +<p>At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the cold +majestic glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, the +ascent was begun. Too eager to be among the first to see the top, +many started without breakfast, while others chose the wiser part, +and waited to be physically fortified.</p> +<p>The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is no +trail and no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to get +across or around some bottomless fissure. For some distance the +ground seemed quite solid. Soon it was discovered that there was +but a thin covering of dirt on the solid ice below; but anon in +striking the ground with the end of an alpine stick it would prove +to be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss below +which we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good of +future tourists, that there are not many such places, or that they +may soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top after +a tedious and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows, +as if the sea had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm. +Deep chasms obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slip +would send one down the blue steps where no friendly rope could +rescue, and only the rushing water could be heard. To view the +solid phalanxes of icy floes, as they fill the mountain fastnesses +and imperceptibly march through the ravines and force their way to +the sea, fills one with awe indescribable. The knowledge that the +ice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one with a curious +sensation hard to portray.</p> +<p>Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that wins +the offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntary +act of this giant of the Arctic zone.</p> +<p>For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes was +gloried in, when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchor +and steam away. The whistles call the passengers back to the +steamer, where they were soon comparing specimens, viewing +instantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled clothing, casting away +tattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth escapes from peril +and death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, and floated +away in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for breakfast +disclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the</p> +<h4>BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA.</h4> +<p>The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaska +ports, and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in the +morning, but the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of our +arrival, and the inhabitants were out in force to greet friends or +sell their canoes.</p> +<p>There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including all +races. The harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain can +imagine. Exquisitely moulded islands are scattered about in the +most enchanting way, all shapes and sizes, with now and then a +little garden patch, and ever verdant with native woods and grasses +and charming rockeries. As far out as the eye can reach the +beautiful isles break the cold sea into bewitching inlets and lure +the mariner to shelter from evil outside waves.</p> +<center><img src="Images/14Sitka.jpg" alt="SITKA HARBOR, ALASKA" +height="265" width="456"></center> +<p>The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curve +surrounded by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, and +too far to try to walk—which is a good excuse for tired feet. +The first prominent feature to meet the eye on land is a large +square house, two stories high, located on a rocky eminence near +the shore, and overlooking the entire town and harbor. Once it was +a model dwelling of much pretension, with its spacious apartments, +hard-wood six-inch plank floors, elaborately-carved decorations, +stained-glass windows, and its amusement and refreshment halls. All +betoken the former elegance of the Russian governor's home, which +was supported with such pride and magnificence as will never be +seen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows broken, and +the old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, and +its only life will be on the page of history.</p> +<p>The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildings +occupied much of the tourists' time, and some were deeply +interested. There are eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under the +Presbyterian jurisdiction, trying to educate and Christianize the +Indians. They are doing a noble work, but it does seem a hopeless +task when one goes among the Indian homes, sees the filth, smells +the vile odors, and studies the native habits.</p> +<p>These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have +more or less money.</p> +<h4>MANY ARE RICH,</h4> +<p>having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in +which they live would indicate the direst poverty.</p> +<p>The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water +supply, is bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through an +evergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two +miles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a most +picturesque circle. The water is carried in buckets loaded on carts +and wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska. There +are probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in all +Alaska—not so much because of the expense of transportation +and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months of +winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the packing +is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs and +supplies on their backs.</p> +<p>Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located +in the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. +Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, +surmounted by a chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and +rare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint +candelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an air +of sacred quiet pervades the whole building. There were no seats, +for the Russians remain standing during the worship. Service is +held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, and +the church is still supported by the Russian Government. Indeed, +Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our own +Government for Alaska.</p> +<p>The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the +other towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, +than the other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, +large boned, and stout.</p> +<p>Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these +people. Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a +huge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us once +more—now on the homeward sail.</p> +<p>But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and +that was at</p> +<h4>KILLISNOO.</h4> +<p>When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the +city policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. +Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over +his door was the following:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>"By the Governor's commission,<br> + And the company's permission,<br> + I am made the grand tyhee<br> + Of this entire illahee.</p> +<p>"Prominent in song and story,<br> + I've attained the top of glory.<br> + As Saginaw I am known to fame,<br> + Jake is but my common name."</p></blockquote> +<p>The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when +he and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs +on his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka +to be released. He appears in at least a dozen different suits +while the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographed +every time.</p> +<p>Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herring +oil were put up annually. The industry is now increasing +again.</p></blockquote> +<center><img src="Images/16Devil.jpg" alt="DEVIL'S THUMB" + width="522" height="285"></center> +<blockquote> +<h4>NATURAL WEALTH.</h4> +<p>And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference to +Alaska's vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. There +are 300,000,000 of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellow +cedar, Oregon pine, hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties of +timber. Canoes are made from single trees, sixty feet long, with +eight-feet beams.</p> +<p>Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered in +various localities. Though but little prospected or developed, +Alaska is now yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 per +year. There is a respectable area of island and mainland country +well adapted to stock-raising, and the production of many cereals +and vegetables. The climate of much of the coast country is milder +than that of Colorado, and stock can feed on the pastures the year +round.</p> +<p>But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its seal +and salmon fisheries would remain alone an immense commercial +property. The salmon are found in almost any part of these northern +waters where fresh water comes in, as they always seek those +streams in the spawning season. There are different varieties that +come at stated periods and are caught in fabulous numbers, +sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often retarding steamers +when a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. Van Gasken +brought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon for +packing. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was either +one or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Of +these, 11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year.</p> +<p>Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod, +rock cod, herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the waters +are whipped by porpoises and whales in large numbers all along the +way. Governor Swineford estimates the products of the Alaska +fisheries last year at $3,000,000.</p> +<h4>THE SEAL FISHERIES</h4> +<p>are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. George +Islands are the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, sea +otter, and walrus. These islands are in a continuous fog in summer, +and are swept by icy blasts in winter. There are many interesting +facts connected with these islands and the habits of these phocine +kindred, but space is limited. Suffice that 100,000 seals are +killed each year for commercial purposes. Over 1,000,000 seal pups +are born every year, and when they leave for winter quarters they +go in families and not altogether. An average seal is about six +feet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from 400 to +800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle of +June and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to pay +our Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped to +London to be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in the +United States.</p> +<p>In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings to +seekers of fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with no +extreme heat, because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humid +air, and never extreme cold, because of the Japan current that +bathes its mossy slopes and destroys the frigid wave before it does +its work.</p> +<p>Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenes +of matchless grandeur—majestic mountains (think of +snow-crowned St. Elias, rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge), +the mightiest glaciers, world's of inimitable, indescribable +splendor. It is a trip of a lifetime. There is none other like it, +and our party unanimously resolves that the tourist who fails to +take it misses very much.</p></blockquote> +<p> </p> +<hr size="4" width="50%" align="center"> +<center> +<h4><i>Fifth Tour</i>—</h4></center> +<p>From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the most +enjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort, +and the service is exceptionally fine.</p> +<p>The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" are +powerful iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel between +Portland and San Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hour +ocean voyage thoroughly enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, no +greater motion than the long swell of the Pacific, and the boats +are models of neatness and comfort. It affords a grand opportunity +to run down the California coast, always in sight of land, and +derive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean trip without any +of its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to be seen +are the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beach +at Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hancock, the lonely +Mid-Ocean Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue River +Reef, Cape Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but not +least, the world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco.</p> +<center><img src="Images/17Moonlight.jpg" alt= +"MOONLIGHT ON THE OLD BLOCK HOUSE" height="258" width="454" + align="top"></center> +<p>The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed iron +vessels, supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light and +bells, and all improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms, +cabins, salons, etc., are elaborately furnished throughout, the +whole presenting an unrivaled scene of luxurious ocean life.</p> +<p>The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist are +most obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old Pacific +Ocean, complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all the +discomforts which one meets in midsummer railway travel.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="70%"> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="90%"> +<p> </p> +<center> +<h3>STANDARD PUBLICATIONS<br> +BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT<br> +OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY.</h3></center> +<p>The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take +pleasure in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of the +following publications, provided that with the application is +enclosed the amount of postage specified below for each +publication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh from the +press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards +the region of country described. They will be found entertaining +and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on the +fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the +West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health +seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and +the invalid.</p> +<p><b>The Western Resort Book</b>. Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union +Pacific system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering +place, hunter's paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives +a full and complete detail of all tours over the line, starting +from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, or +Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journey from +either of these points to the Pacific Coast.</p> +<p><b>Sights and Scenes.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size, +illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to particular points. The +set comprises "Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and +Montana; California; Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet, +deals minutely with every resort of pleasure or health within its +assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading +for tourists.</p> +<p><b>Facts and Figures.</b> Send 2 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures +relative to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They are +more particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile +States and will be found accurate in every particular; there is a +description of all important towns.</p> +<p><b>Vest Pocket Memorandum Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful +for the farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist.</p> +<p><b>Calendar, 1890.</b> Send 6 cents for postage.</p> +<p>An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office +and counting room.</p> +<p><b>Comprehensive Pamphlets.</b> Send 6 cents postage for each +pamphlet.</p> +<p>A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, +Oregon, and Washington. These books treat, of the resources, +climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and products of these +various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an +exhaustive treatise of the capabilities and promise of the places +described. They have been very carefully compiled, and the +information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and +residents of the different States and Territories.</p> +<p><b>Theatrical Diary.</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco, +gilt tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera houses +reached by the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of +stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is +intended only for the theatrical profession.</p> +<p><b>Commercial Salesman's Expense Book.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890—dates, cash +accounts, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Outdoor Sports and Pastimes.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving the +complete rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet, +Racquet, Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, +etc., etc. There are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and Base +Ball diamond. This pamphlet will be found especially valuable to +lovers of these games.</p> +<p><b>Map of the United States.</b> Send 25 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A large wall map of the United States, complete in every +particular, and compiled from the latest surveys; just published; +size, 46 x 66 inches; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc.</p> +<p><b>Stream, Sound and Sea.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The +Dalles of the Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; +through the strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget +Sound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing +valuable information for the tourist.</p> +<p><b>Wonderful Story.</b> Send 2 cents for postage.</p> +<p>The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the +early surveys and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by +General G.M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the +Tennessee, September, 1888. General Sherman pronounces this +document fascinatingly interesting and, of great historical value, +and vouches for its accuracy.</p> +<p><b>Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws.</b> Send 2 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to +game in all the Western States and Territories. It also contains +the various gun club rules, together with a guide to all Western +localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every +sportsman should have one.</p> +<p><b>"The Oldest Inhabitant."</b> Send 10 cents for postage.</p> +<p>This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from +life. It is characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. +A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library.</p> +<p><b>Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1.</b> Send $1.00.</p> +<p>This book has just been issued. It graphically describes every +point, giving its history, population, business resources, etc., +etc., on the line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between the +Missouri River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not +start West without a copy in his possession. It furnishes in one +volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union +Pacific system, and can not fail to be of great assistance to the +tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete information +about the points to be visited.</p> +<p><b>A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake.</b> Send 4 cents for +postage.</p> +<p>This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the +mysterious Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with original +sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt +Lake City. This startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and +color are finely portrayed. This book touches a new region, a +voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and +pictured.</p> +<p><b>General Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every +month. This publication gives condensed through time tables; +through car service; a first-class map of the United States, west +of Chicago and St. Louis; important baggage and ticket regulations +of the Union Pacific Railway, thus making a valuable compendium for +the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets over +the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>The Pathfinder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; +containing a complete list of stations with the altitude of each; +also connections with western stage lines and ocean steamships; +through car service; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the +principal ticket regulations, which will prove of great value as a +ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information +about the local branches of the Union Pacific Railway.</p> +<p><b>Alaska Folder</b>. No postage required.</p> +<p>This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and +also a correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland to +Sitka, Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this new +and almost unknown country.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr align="center" noshade size="2" width="40%"> +<p> </p> +<center><img src="Images/18Map.jpg" alt= +"Tourist Map of the Union Pacific and Connecting Lines" + height="279" width="570"></center> +<br> +<br> +<hr> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA; SIGHTS AND SCENES FOR THE TOURIST.***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 10751-h.txt or 10751-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/7/5/10751</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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