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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10619 ***
+
+AN ENGLISHMAN'S TRAVELS IN AMERICA:
+
+
+His Observations Of Life and Manners in the Free and Slave States.
+
+
+1857
+
+
+BY J. BENWELL.
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+Personal narrative and adventure has, of late years, become so
+interesting a subject in the mind of the British public, that the author
+feels he is not called upon to apologize for the production of the
+following pages.
+
+It was his almost unremitting practice, during the four years he resided
+on the North American continent, to keep a record of what he considered
+of interest around him; not with a view to publishing the matter thus
+collected, for this was far from his thoughts at the time, but through a
+long contracted habit of dotting down transpiring events, for the
+future amusement, combined, perhaps, with instruction, of himself and
+friends. It therefore became necessary, to fit it for publication, to
+collate the accumulated memoranda, and select such portions only as
+might be supposed to prove interesting to the general reader. In doing
+this he has been careful to preserve the phraseology as much as
+possible, with a view to give, as far as he could, something like a
+literal transcript of the sentiments that gave rise to the original
+minutes, and avoid undue addition or interpolation.
+
+It was the wish and intention of the writer, before leaving England, to
+extend his travels by visiting some of the islands in the Caribbean Sea,
+a course which he regrets not having been able to follow, from
+unforeseen circumstances, which are partially related in the following
+pages. He laments this the more, as it would have added considerably to
+the interest of the work, and enabled him to enlarge upon that fertile
+subject, the relative position at the time of the negro race in those
+islands, and the demoralized condition of their fellow-countrymen, under
+the iniquitous system of slavery, as authorized by statute law, in the
+southern states of America. As it was, he was enabled to travel through
+the most populous parts of the states of New York and Ohio, proceeding,
+_viâ_ Cincinnati, to the Missouri country; after a brief stay at St.
+Louis, taking the direct southern route down the Missouri and
+Mississippi rivers, to New Orleans in Louisiana, passing Natchez on the
+way. The whole tour comprising upwards of three thousand miles.
+
+From New Orleans he crossed an arm of the Gulf of Mexico to the
+Floridas, and after remaining in that territory for a considerable time,
+and taking part under a sense of duty in a campaign (more to scatter
+than annihilate), against the Seminole and Cherokee tribes of Indians,
+who, in conjunction with numberless fugitive slaves, from the districts
+a hundred miles round, were devastating the settlements, and
+indiscriminately butchering the inhabitants, he returned to Tallahassee,
+taking stage at that town to Macon in the state of Georgia, and from
+thence by the Greensborough Railway to Charleston in South Carolina,
+sailing after rather a prolonged stay, from that port to England.
+
+Some of the incidents related in the following pages will be found to
+bear upon, and tend forcibly to corroborate, the miseries so patiently
+endured by the African race, in a vaunted land of freedom and
+enlightenment, whose inhabitants assert, with ridiculous tenacity, that
+their government and laws are based upon the principle, "That all men in
+the sight of God are equal," and the wrongs of whose victims have of
+late been so touchingly and truthfully illustrated by that eminent
+philanthropist, Mrs. Stowe, to the eternal shame of the upholders of the
+system, and the fearful incubus of guilt and culpability that will
+render for ever infamous, if the policy is persisted in, the nationality
+of America.
+
+Well may the benevolent Doctor Percival in his day have said, when
+writing on the iniquitous system of slave holding and traffic, that
+"Life and liberty with the powers of enjoyment dependent on them are the
+common and inalienable gifts of bounteous heaven. To seize them by force
+is rapine; to exchange for them the wares of Manchester or Birminghan is
+improbity, for it is to barter without reciprocal gain, to give the
+stones of the brook for the gold of Ophir."
+
+
+
+THE ENGLISHMAN IN AMERICA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+  "Adieu, adieu! my native shore
+    Fades o'er the waters blue,
+  The night-winds sigh, the breakers roar,
+    And shrieks the wild sea-mew.
+  Yon sun that sets upon the sea
+    We follow in his flight;
+  Farewell awhile to him and thee,
+    My native Land--Good night!"--BYRON.
+
+
+Late in the fall of the year 18--, I embarked on board the ship _Cosmo_,
+bound from the port of Bristol to that of New York. The season was
+unpropitious, the lingering effects of the autumnal equinox rendering it
+more than probable that the passage would be tempestuous. The result
+soon proved the correctness of this surmise, for soon after the vessel
+departed from Kingroad, and before she got clear of the English coast,
+we experienced boisterous weather, which was followed by a succession
+of gales, that rendered our situation perilous. But a partial
+destruction of the rigging, the loss of some sheep on the deck of the
+vessel, and a slight indication of leakage, which was soon remedied by
+the carpenter of the ship and his assistants, were happily the only
+detrimental consequences arising from the weather.
+
+Our progress on the whole was satisfactory, although, when we arrived
+between 48 and 52 degrees north latitude, we narrowly escaped coming in
+contact with an enormous iceberg, two of which were descried at daybreak
+by the "look-out," floundering majestically a little on the ship's
+larboard quarter, not far distant, the alarm being raised by an uproar
+on deck that filled my mind with dire apprehension, the lee bulwarks of
+the vessel were in five minutes thronged with half-naked passengers, who
+had been roused unexpectedly from their slumbers, staring in terror at
+the frigid masses which we momentarily feared would overwhelm the ship.
+The helm being put up, we were soon out of the threatened danger of a
+collision, which would have consigned us to a grave in the wide wide
+waters, without the remotest chance of escape. This consideration was,
+to all on board, a matter of deep thankfulness to the mighty Author of
+such stupendous wonders, who had so miraculously preserved our lives.
+Had the adventure occurred in the night, our destruction must have been
+inevitable, as the ship was sailing under heavy canvas, within a single
+point of the wake of one of the icebergs, which was drifting before a
+stiff breeze.
+
+Although this encounter proved harmless, we shortly after had another to
+dread of a fearful nature. The number of fishing-boats off the coast of
+Newfoundland, makes the navigation perilous at almost any time to
+vessels approaching too near the banks, and after night-fall, the vessel
+going at the rate of ten knots an hour with a smacking breeze, we passed
+many of these at anchor, or rather, I suppose, riding on the waves; they
+displayed lights, or serious consequences might have ensued. Some of the
+skiffs were so near to us, that as I leaned over the ship's
+quarter-rail, dreading, and every moment expecting, that we should run
+one down, I could distinctly hear the crews hailing us to shorten sail
+and keep off. By adopting this course our vessel cleared the danger, and
+after slightly touching the banks, which caused the vessel to heel, and
+created a momentary panic on board amongst the passengers, she was
+steered more out to sea, and by the following morning nothing was to be
+seen but a boundless waste of waters, extending as far as the eye could
+reach.
+
+After these temporary alarms, with the exception of baffling winds,
+which impeded the progress of the ship, and lengthened the duration of
+our confinement ten days or a fortnight, our voyage was prosperous,
+little occurring to break the monotony of confinement on ship-board that
+is experienced in sea-passages in general; the only excitement being a
+fracas between the captain and cook, owing to complaints made by the
+middle-cabin and steerage passengers, which nearly ended fatally to the
+former, who would have been stabbed to a certainty, but for a by-stander
+wresting the knife from the hand of the enraged subordinate, who had
+been supplied too liberally with spirits by the passengers; a
+predominating evil on board all emigrant ships, from the drawback of
+duty allowed on spirits shipped as stores, and which are retailed on the
+voyage to the passengers. The culprit was confined below during the
+remainder of the voyage, and when we arrived at New York presented a
+pitiable sight, having been rigidly debarred by the captain's orders of
+many of the commonest necessaries, I believe, the whole time. Here he
+was released and discharged from the ship, glad enough to escape further
+punishment, "prosecution" having been, since the occurrence, held _in
+terrorem_ over him.
+
+It was late in the afternoon of an intensely cold day, which caused the
+spray to congeal as it dashed against the bulwarks and cordage of the
+vessel, that we descried with great pleasure looming indistinctly in the
+distance, the shores of Sandy Hook, a desolate-looking island, near the
+coast of New Jersey, about seven miles south of Long Island Sound. This
+the captain informed me was formerly a peninsula, but the isthmus was
+broken through by the sea in 1767, the year after the declaration of
+American independence, an occurrence which was at the time deemed
+ominous of the severance of the colonies from the mother country, and
+which proved in reality to be the precursor of that event.
+
+The sight of _terra firma_, though at a distance and but gloomy in
+aspect, put all on board in buoyant spirits; but these were but
+transitory, our enthusiasm being soon damped by a dense fog, resembling
+those the Londoners are so accustomed to see in the winter, and which in
+an incredibly short space of time, in this instance, obscured everything
+around. Our proximity to the shore rendered the circumstance hazardous
+to us, and it appeared necessary that the vessel's head should be again
+put seaward; but this the captain was evidently anxious to avoid, as it
+involved the risk of protracting the voyage. A general rummage for
+ammunition was therefore ordered, and a supply of this necessary having
+been obtained, the ship's carronade was after considerable delay put in
+order, and minute guns were fired. After discharging some thirty rounds
+or more, we were relieved from the state of anxiety we were in by a
+pilot hailing the ship, and in a minute after he was on deck issuing
+orders with great pertinacity.
+
+It is impossible for any one unaccustomed to sea voyages to form a just
+conception of the relief afforded by the presence of that important
+functionary, a pilot. Perhaps a captain's greatest anxiety is, when his
+vessel, having braved a thousand perils on the deep, is about to enter
+on the termination of its voyage. On the broad expanse of ocean, or, in
+nautical phrase, with plenty of sea-room, if his bark is in good
+condition, he fears little or nothing, but when his vessel approaches
+its goal, visions of disaster arise before him, and he becomes anxious,
+thoughtful, and taciturn.
+
+The pilot informed us that he had kept our vessel in chase for a
+considerable time, and had burnt a number of newspapers on the deck of
+his cutter to attract attention, but all his efforts proved unavailing,
+when just as he was about to abandon the pursuit, he descried and hailed
+the ship. This being the first specimen of an American whom many of the
+passengers had seen in his native climate, their curiosity was aroused,
+and they crowded round him, regarding every word and movement with the
+greatest attention and interest. The pilot was evidently displeased with
+being made "a lion" of, and gave vent to his feelings rather freely,
+while there was a curl of hauteur on his lip, that indicated a species
+of contempt for the company he was in. This disposition did not convey a
+very favourable idea of his countrymen, and was, to say the least of it,
+an ill-judged display before strangers; coming, however, as it did, from
+an illiterate man, belonging, as I knew from previous inquiry, to rather
+an exceptional class of individuals in America, I did not suffer my mind
+to be biassed, although I could see that many of the passengers were not
+disposed to view the matter in the same light. He was a brusque and
+uncouth man, of swaggering gait, about forty years of age, above the
+middle stature, and soon let the captain and crew know, by his
+authoritative manner and volubility of tongue, that he was chief in
+command on the occasion. No one seemed, however, to dispute this, for
+the passengers looked on him as a sort of divinity sent to their rescue;
+the ship's hands were implicitly obedient, and the captain very soon
+after his arrival retired into the cabin, glad to be relieved from a
+heavy responsibility.
+
+The following morning, the haze having cleared off, we could again see
+the Jersey shore. The sea in every direction was now darkened with
+millions of black gulls, wild ducks, and other aquatic birds; we shot
+many of these from the ship's deck, but were, much to our mortification,
+obliged to see them drift away, the pilot, seconded by our austere
+captain, strenuously objecting to a boat being lowered; this was very
+discouraging, as such a change in our diet would, after a rather
+prolonged voyage, have been acceptable.
+
+A favourable breeze soon carried our good ship to the quarantine ground,
+where we dropped anchor, in no little anxiety lest we should be
+detained. The medical officers from the college, or rather sanatory
+establishment, on shore, almost immediately came on board. All hands
+were mustered on deck, and ranged like soldiers on parade ground by
+these important functionaries, who, I may remark by the way, appeared
+like our pilot to be possessed of considerable notions of power and
+authority. After taking a rather cursory inspection they left the
+vessel, and we, to our great joy (a case of small pox having occurred
+during the passage), were allowed to proceed towards New York, which we
+did under easy sail, the breeze rendering a steam-tug unnecessary.
+
+The scenery as we passed up the river was calculated to give a good
+impression of the country, the zest being, however, without doubt,
+greatly heightened by the monotonous dreariness of a tempestuous voyage.
+The highlands and valleys, as we sailed up, had a verdant woody
+appearance, and were interspersed with rural and chateau scenery; herds
+of cattle remarkable for length of horn, and snow-white sheep, were
+grazing placidly in the lowlands. The country, as far as I could judge,
+seemed in a high state of culture, and the farms, to use an expression
+of the celebrated Washington Irving's, when describing, I think, a
+farm-yard view in England, appeared "redolent of pigs, poultry, and
+sundry other good things appertaining to rural life."
+
+On arriving at the approach to the entrance or mouth of the river
+Hudson, which is formed by an arm of the estuary, we turned the
+promontory, leaving Jersey on the left, the battery as we entered the
+harbour being in the foreground. The guns-bristled from this fortress
+with menacing aspect, and the sentinels, in light blue uniforms and
+Kosciusko caps, silently paced the ramparts with automatic regularity.
+This fortification, though formidable in appearance, and certainly in a
+commanding position, I was subsequently informed is little more than a
+mimic fort; this arises from the want of attention paid to defences of
+the kind in America, the little existing chance of invasion, perhaps,
+causing the indifference to the subject. If, however, the spirit of
+aggressive conquest shown by the federal government, of late years, of
+which the invasion of Mexico is a fair specimen, should continue to
+develop itself, it is not difficult to foresee that it will be necessary
+policy to pay greater attention to the subject, and to keep in a more
+effective state the seaboard defences of the country, as well as their
+army, which is at present miserably deficient. This has heretofore been
+so far neglected, as regards the marine, that not long before I arrived
+the commander of a French ship of war was much chagrined, on firing a
+salute as he passed the battery at New York, to find that his courtesy
+was not returned in the customary way. He complained of the omission as
+either a mark of disrespect to himself, or an insult to his nation, when
+it came out in explanation that the garrison was in such a defective
+state that there were not the appliances at hand to observe this
+national etiquette.
+
+The city of New York is built almost close to the water's edge, with a
+broad levee or wharf running round a great portion of it. Its general
+appearance gives to a stranger an impression of its extent and
+importance. It has been aptly and accurately described as a dense pack
+of buildings, comprising every imaginable variety, and of all known
+orders of modernized architecture. The tide flows close up to the
+wharves which run outside of the city, and differs so little in height
+at ebb or flow, that vessels of the largest class ride, I believe, at
+all times as safely as in the West India docks in London, or the
+imperial docks of Liverpool. Here was assembled an incalculable number
+of vessels of all sizes and all nations, forming a beautiful and
+picturesque view of commercial enterprise and grandeur, perhaps outvying
+every other port in the world, not excepting Liverpool itself.
+
+As our vessel could not at once be accommodated with a berth, owing to
+the crowded state of the harbour, she was moored in the middle of the
+stream, and being anxious to go on shore, I availed myself of the
+captain's offer to take me to the landing-place in his gig. We went on
+shore in an alcove, at the foot of Wall-street, and I experienced the
+most delightful sensation on once more setting foot on _terra firma_,
+after our dreary voyage. The day, notwithstanding it was now October,
+was intensely hot (although a severe frost for two or three days before
+gave indications of approaching winter), and the streets being
+unmacadamized, had that arid look we read of in accounts of the plains
+of Arabia, the dust being quite deep, and exceeding in quantity anything
+of the kind I had ever seen in European cities: clouds of it
+impregnated the air, and rendered respiration and sight difficult.
+
+Hundreds of rudely-constructed drays were passing to and fro, heavily
+laden with merchandize, many of them drawn by mules, and the remainder
+by very light horses of Arabian build; the heavy English dray horse was
+nowhere to be seen, the breed as I afterwards learned not being
+cultivated, from a dislike to its ponderousness.
+
+The lower part of Wall-street presented a busy mart-like appearance,
+every description of goods being piled heterogeneously before the
+warehouse-doors of their respective owners in the open thoroughfare,
+which is at this part very wide. Auctioneers were here busily engaged in
+the disposal of their merchandise, which comprised every variety of
+produce and manufacture, home and foreign, from a yard of
+linsey-woolsey, "hum spun" as they termed it, to a bale of Manchester
+long cloth, or their own Sea-Island cotton. The auctioneer in America is
+a curious specimen of the biped creation. He is usually a swaggering,
+consequential sort of fellow, and drives away at his calling with
+wondrous impudence and pertinacity, dispensing, all the while he is
+selling, the most fulsome flattery or the grossest abuse on those who
+stand around. One of these loquacious animals was holding forth to a
+crowd, just below the _Courier and Inquirer_ newspaper office, where
+the street widens, as a preliminary introduction to the sale of a
+quantity of linen goods that had been damaged at a recent fire in the
+neighbourhood. I could not help admiring the man's tact. Fixing his eyes
+on an individual in a white dress, with an enormous Leghorn hat on his
+head, who was apparently eagerly listening, while smoking a cigar, to
+the harangue, he suddenly exclaimed, "There now is Senator Huff, from
+the State of Missouri, he heerd of this vendue a thousand mile up river,
+and wall knows I'm about to offer somethin woth having; look at him, he
+could buy up the fust five hunderd folks hed cum across anywhar in this
+city, and what's more, he's a true patriot, made o' the right kinder
+stuff, I guess."
+
+He followed up the eulogium at great length, and after liberally
+dispensing "soft soap" on the listeners, declared the auction had
+commenced. I stood by for some minutes, gazing around and watching the
+operations, and was not long in discovering that Senator Huff kept
+running up the articles by pretended bids, and was evidently in league
+with him, in fact a confederate. This auctioneer was the very emblem of
+buffoonery and blackguardism; the rapidity with which he repeated the
+sums, supposed by the bystanders to be bid, the curt yet extravagant
+praise bestowed on his wares, and his insulting and unsparing remarks if
+a comment were made on the goods he offered, or if the company did not
+respond in bidding, stamped him as one of the baser sort of vulgarians.
+
+Sales of this description were going on in every direction, and the
+street rang with the stentorian voices of the sellers. Many of these
+were mock auctions, as an observer of any intelligence would detect, and
+as I ascertained beyond doubt almost directly after leaving this man's
+stand; for, stepping into an open store close at hand, of which there
+are ranges on either side of the street, a sale of jewellery and watches
+was going on. A case of jewellery, containing, among other things, a
+gold watch and chain, apparently of exquisite workmanship, was put up
+just as I entered, and was started at six cents per article. Bid after
+bid succeeded, until, at last, the lot was knocked down to a southern
+gentleman present at fifty cents per item. On making the purchase, he
+naturally wished to know how many articles the box contained. This
+information, on the plea that it would delay the sale, was withheld. The
+auctioneer, however, insisted on the payment of a deposit of fifty
+dollars, in compliance with the published conditions of the sale, which
+sum, after a demur on the part of the purchaser, was paid. I could see,
+however, that he was now sensible he had been duped, and I afterwards
+learnt that some forty or fifty articles, of almost every fancy
+description, many of them worthless, such as pins, knives, tweezers, and
+a variety of other knick-knacks, were artfully concealed from view, by
+means of a false bottom to the case; this being lifted up revealed the
+truth. The man was greatly enraged on finding he had been cheated, but
+was treated with the most audacious coolness, and after some altercation
+left the store, as he said, to seek redress elsewhere, but I have no
+doubt he went off with the intention of losing his deposit.
+
+This occurrence put me on my guard, and made me very wary of buying
+articles at such auctions during my stay in New York, although the
+apparent beauty and cheapness of many of the articles I saw offered,
+especially of French manufacture, were sufficient to decoy the most
+wary, and I did not wonder at people being victimized at such places.
+Emigrants are the chief sufferers, I was told, by such transactions,
+from their want of caution, and ignorance of the arts of the
+accomplished deceivers who conduct them.
+
+Proceeding up Wall-street in the direction of Broadway, I reached that
+portion of it frequented by stock and real-estate brokers. Here crowds
+of gentlemanly-looking men, dressed mostly in black, and of busy mien,
+crowded the thoroughfare with scrip in hand. Each appeared intensely
+absorbed in business, and as I gazed on the assemblage, I could
+discover unmistakable symptoms of great excitement and mental anxiety,
+the proportion of rueful countenances being much greater than is usually
+seen in similar places of resort in England; a sudden depression in the
+market at the time might, however, account for much of this, although it
+is well known that brokers and speculators on the American continent
+engage in the pursuit with the avidity of professed gamblers.
+
+Hundreds of Negroes were hurrying to and fro through the streets, these
+were chiefly labourers, decently dressed, and employed either as draymen
+or porters. They looked happier than labourers in England; and, being
+bathed in a profuse perspiration from the heat of the weather, their
+faces shone almost like black satin or patent leather.
+
+After a few days' rest at my boarding-house, to which I was recommended
+by a touter, and which was in Canal-street, and was kept by a "cute"
+Down-easter, or native of the New England States, with whom I engaged
+for bed and board for eight dollars per week, I sallied forth to make my
+intended observations, preparatory to leaving for the west. Everything
+wore a novel aspect. The number of foreigners seen in the thoroughfares,
+the tawdry flimsily-built carriages, which strangely contrast with the
+more substantial ones seen in England, and the dresses of the people,
+all seemed strange to me. The habiliments of one or two in particular
+rivetted my attention. The first was a Kentuckian, who was dressed in a
+suit of grey home-spun cloth, and wore on his head a fantastical cap,
+formed of a racoon-skin, beautifully striped, the ears projecting just
+above his forehead on each side, while the forefeet of the animal,
+decorated with red cloth, formed the ear-laps, and the tail depended
+over his back like a quieu, producing a ludicrous effect. His appearance
+as he passed along attracted little notice, such vagaries being common
+in America. My attention was also arrested by a person who was arrayed
+in a hunting suit of buck-skin, curiously wrought with strips of dyed
+porcupine-quill, and who wore an otter-skin cap and Indian moccasins.
+There, is, however, little novelty in this costume, which I frequently
+saw afterwards. Caps of the description I have mentioned are commonly
+worn in the interior. I subsequently donned one myself, and found it an
+admirable adjunct to easy travelling.
+
+During my stay at New York, I found the heat almost overpowering, the
+Indian summer (as the period between autumn and winter is there termed)
+having set in. An umbrella was quite a necessary appendage at times, to
+avoid its effects, which are often fatal to Europeans at the time of the
+summer solstice.
+
+In perambulating the city of New York, its appearance is prepossessing
+to a visitor; the streets are well laid out, and are wide and regular,
+the houses being for the most part of the better class. The white or red
+paint (the latter predominates), and the green and white jalousie,
+venetian, and siesta blinds, giving a picturesqueness to the scene.
+Handsome mats lie outside the doors of many of the better description of
+houses.
+
+Broadway is the principal place of attraction in New York, but it has so
+often been described by visitors, that it is a work of supererogation to
+comment much upon it here; as, however, every tourist can see and
+describe differently the same objects, I must not pass it in silence,
+especially as it ranks in the view of the New Yorkers, something as
+Bond-street and Regent-street do in the metropolis of England. It is,
+however, far inferior to these; it is not one, but a continuous line of
+streets, and, including Canal-street, extends about three miles in
+length. The Haarlem Railway comes down a considerable portion of the
+upper part, the rails being laid in the centre of the street The lower
+end of Broadway merges into the Battery Park, which is situated at the
+water's edge. In Broadway are to be seen magnificent hotels, theatres,
+magazines-de-mode, and all the etceteras of a fashionable mart, not
+omitting to mention crowds of elegantly dressed ladies and exquisitely
+attired gentlemen, including many of colour; the latter appearing in the
+extreme of the fashion, with a redundancy of jewellery which,
+contrasting with their sable colour, produces to the eye of a stranger
+an unseemly effect. The shops and stores are fitted up in the Parisian
+style, appear well attended by customers, and are crowded with the
+choicest description of goods.
+
+Astor's Hotel, built by the so-called millionaire of that name, is a
+large but rather heavy-looking pile of building, and forms a conspicuous
+object in the park. Here many of the élite from the provinces sojourn on
+visiting the city. The accommodations are stated to be of the first
+order, and, from a cursory inspection, I should imagine this to be true,
+the only drawback being the enormous prices charged, exceeding, I was
+told, the ordinary run of first-class houses of that description.
+Noticing from the opposite side of the street that the entrance was much
+crowded, curiosity led me to cross over and ascend the steps and listen
+to what was going on, supposing it some political demonstration; in
+this, however, I was mistaken, for I found that the cause of the
+commotion was the recent arrival and presence of the celebrated
+statesman and lawyer, Daniel Webster, _en route_ to Washington, whither
+he was called by Congressional duties. I pressed forward to shake hands
+with this great expounder of American laws, as he is called by the
+citizens, who seemed, by the way, on the occasion I refer to, to regard
+him as a sort of divinity. I could not, however, succeed in getting near
+enough to accomplish my object, although I strove hard for it. It was
+quite amusing to see the anxiety shown by some of those present to
+effect the same purpose. The senator kept shaking hands with all around,
+repeating over and over again, "Glad to see you, citizens, glad to see
+you." Amongst others, a gentlemanly-dressed negro with a gold-headed
+cane pressed forward and held out his hand. There was, however, no
+chance for him in the throng, for he was rudely pushed back, and I heard
+several angry exclamations of disapprobation from the crowd, at the
+liberty he had taken, one individual in particular crying out, "Kick
+that nigger off, what has he to do here." These exclamations caught the
+ear of the negro gentleman, and he shrunk back in an instant, as if
+electrified. Mr. Webster was a yeoman-like looking person, of rather a
+muscular-build, and at one time of life was, no doubt, as I have heard,
+possessed of great physical powers; he had a heavy and rather downcast
+turn of features, which were not improved by a pair of enormous black
+eyebrows; there was, however, an expression in his physiognomy that
+indicated deep thought, and a degree of intelligence above the
+mediocrity. In addition to this, there was also a pleasing urbanity in
+his manner that was certainly contrary to what might have been expected
+from his personal appearance and known burly character in business. He
+gradually retreated up the steps towards the interior of the hotel, the
+excessive attentions paid by the crowd appearing troublesome to him. He
+was closely followed, however, by his admirers, whose boisterous
+behaviour savoured much more of enthusiasm than deference or politeness.
+I had heard that the Americans profess never to do things by halves, and
+so set this instance down as a proof of their propensity to "go the
+whole hog," as they are wont to term their extremes and eccentricities.
+
+The Town-hall, situate at the base of the Park, which is a triangular
+piece of land, well laid out and neatly kept, is a light edifice of some
+taste and architectural merit, its chief attraction being the white
+marble of which it is constructed, and which is brought from the
+quarries at Sing-Sing, some miles up the river Hudson. The effect,
+however, is not good; its exposure to the elements having given it a
+blurred or chalky appearance. It is surmounted by a small but elevated
+cupola, constructed of wood, which some time ago, I was informed by a
+citizen, caught fire at a pyrotechnic exhibition, and endangered the
+whole edifice, since which, displays of fire-works have been prohibited
+in the Park by the civic authorities. At the entrance there is a
+spacious vestibule, but this, as well as the interior, though elegant in
+its simplicity of style, is meagre of ornament. Proceeding to the
+interior, I reached the criminal court, where a squalid-looking prisoner
+was undergoing trial for murder. The judges and officers of the court
+were almost entirely without insignia of office, and the counsel
+employed, I thought, evinced much tact in their proceedings, especially
+in the cross-examination of witnesses, although they manifested great
+acerbity of feeling towards each other, and their acrimonious remarks
+would not, I imagine, have been allowed to pass without remonstrance in
+an English court of justice. I was told by a by-stander, with whom I
+entered into conversation, that if found guilty, the prisoner would be
+conducted to an underground apartment used for the purpose, and
+privately executed, the law of the State of New York, from motives that
+ought to be appreciated in England, prohibiting public executions. It is
+also customary there to allow criminals more time than in England, to
+prepare for the awful change they are doomed to undergo.
+
+I was informed by a friend that there are some very astute lawyers in
+America, and I subsequently had opportunities to test the accuracy of
+the remark. Their code, however, differs materially from the English,
+although professing to be based upon its principles; and has the
+preeminent advantage of being pretty free from the intricacies and
+incongruities that so often tend to defeat justice in the
+mother-country, and render proceedings at law so expensive and
+perplexing. The slave laws (called the "_codenoir_"), adapted for the
+Southern States, must, however, be excepted, for it is notorious, that
+to subserve the ends of interested parties, they have been framed so as
+to present what may with propriety be termed a concatenation of
+entanglement and injustice to the slave subjects; the very wording of
+many of these enactments, carrying unmistakable evidence of their being
+concocted for the almost sole protection of the slave-owners.
+
+Adjoining the Town-hall, or separated only by an avenue, is a heavy,
+monastic-looking building, used as a bridewell, and called the City
+Penitentiary. Having remained a considerable time in the hall where the
+trial was going on, the agonized state of the prisoner and sickening
+details of the murder caused a disinclination for the present to
+continue my perambulations, so I stepped into the Café de
+l'Independence, in Broadway, and called for a port-wine sangaree,
+endeavouring, while I sipped it, smoked a cigar, and read the _Courier
+and Inquirer_, to forget the scene I had just witnessed. Leaving soon
+after, I pursued my way down Broadway, passing Peel's Museum and the
+Astor House, to the Battery Marine Promenade. This is a delightful spot,
+the finest in point of situation (although not in extent) of the kind I
+ever saw, the Esplanade at Charleston in South Carolina, of which I
+shall have by-and-by to speak more particularly, being excepted.
+
+Ladies and gentlemen were promenading up and down, under the umbrageous
+foliage of the lofty trees which skirt the Battery Park, and which were
+as yet unscathed by the recent frosts, forming a delightful retreat from
+the scorching rays of an American sun. The sea view from this point,
+with the adjacent scenery, is interesting and attractive; the broad
+expanse of ocean in the distance, the highlands looming in the
+perspective, the numerous aquatic birds skimming the surface of the
+estuary, and the picturesque fort and woody shores of New Jersey, all
+tending to diversify the scene and add to its natural beauty. I
+afterwards visited this place over and over again, and every succeeding
+visit added to my admiration and enhanced its attractions. To the left
+lies, in panoramic grandeur, the harbour, literally teeming with ships
+of all sizes and all nations; while, on the right, the entrance of the
+majestic Hudson or north river, with crowds of magnificent steamers,
+traders to Troy, Albany, and the West, forms a prominent feature in that
+direction. The passing and repassing of steamers and other vessels of
+home-traffic, and the more exciting arrival of ships from foreign parts,
+give a zest to the scene which must be witnessed to be fully
+appreciated.
+
+A day or two after, having obtained, through a friend, leave of
+admission, I crossed over to Brooklyn, and visited the Navy-yard. The
+docks of this establishment contained, at this time, many specimens of
+American naval architecture of choice description; amongst the rest, a
+frigate and several other ships of war lying in ordinary. Everything
+appeared to indicate good management and efficiency, as far as a
+landsman could judge. This was very discernible on board the vessels we
+were allowed to inspect, where the utmost order and cleanliness
+prevailed. The officers, I thought, seemed to exact great deference from
+the men, and their martinet bearing ill accorded with a republican
+service, being decidedly more marked than on board British ships of war
+which I had visited at Deptford, Chatham, and elsewhere in England.
+Probably a stricter discipline may be found necessary, on account of the
+equality that exists in America, which might operate to render those
+under command more difficult of control, if such independence were
+allowed to be manifested.
+
+I found that the army and navy, in America, are chiefly manned by
+English, Dutch and Irish, not a few Poles being in the ranks of the
+former: these are impelled, through lack of employment, and the
+additional inducement of a tolerably liberal pay, to join the service.
+The Americans themselves are too sensible of the inconveniences
+attending public services, as well as too acute, to follow such
+occupations in time of peace, though when danger has threatened, they
+have always shown themselves at the instant service of the State, and as
+citizen soldiers are not, perhaps, to be equalled in any other country.
+
+From the Navy-yard I proceeded to Hoboken; this is a place of great
+resort in fine weather, and is situate nearly opposite the city of New
+York, or rather the eastern part of it. Here I found assembled a large
+company of pleasure-seekers in holiday attire, some lounging under the
+trees, others in groups at pic-nic, and not a small proportion of the
+gentlemen regaling themselves at the refreshment stalls or temporary
+cafés, erected on the grounds, on mint juleps and iced sangarees. The
+grounds are interspersed with park, woodland, and forest scenery, and
+are kept in admirable order, the managers studying to maintain the
+appearance of original nature, and to impress on the mind of the
+visitor, that he is ruralizing, far from city life, amongst primeval
+forest shades; the contiguous scenery is not, however, calculated to
+carry out the idea. It is quite the custom for American husbands to
+leave their families for the day, and enjoy relaxation in their own way,
+a practice that I apprehend would not be sanctioned by our English
+ladies, any more than it would be resorted to by English gentlemen, from
+motives of kindly and very proper feeling. Here, in a retired spot, is
+the duelling ground, which has attained no little notoriety in that
+latitude, as the spot where many a knotty point has been quietly solved
+by the aid of a pair of pistols or Colt's rifles; although, for the
+credit of the citizens of New York and its neighbourhood, it must be
+recorded that they are not so ready to fly to this disgraceful
+alternative as their ensanguined brethren in the Southern or Slave
+States.
+
+My stay in New York being limited by previous arrangements, I was
+anxious to get back to the city, although a day might well be taken up
+in ruralizing, and exploring the Arcadian beauties of Hoboken, the
+favourite resort of the citizens of New York. So, after a pretty general
+though cursory survey of its attractions, I recrossed, as I had come, in
+a ferry propelled by steam. The construction of this boat, a whole fleet
+of which description were busily plying to and fro, being unique, and
+unlike any I had seen before, I must not pass it over without remark. In
+principle it consisted of two barge-like vessels placed side by side, a
+platform being laid on the top, for the engine, passengers, and
+steersman; the latter, as in all American steam-vessels, of whatever
+size, being perched in an elevated round-house on deck. The stem and
+stern of this vessel were alike, the necessity of turning being thus
+altogether obviated, as in some of the steam-boats on the Thames.
+
+A practice prevails amongst newspaper publishers in America, which is, I
+believe, only resorted to in England in cases of public emergency or
+unusual excitement, and that but seldom; I mean that of posting on large
+placards the latest arrival of news, home or foreign: thus, whenever you
+return home after a sojourn in the city, the eager inquiry is sure to
+be, "Any news up town?" This custom keeps up a lively interest in
+passing events, and disseminates amongst the citizens at large, the
+current news of the day, and if it has no other beneficial effects,
+prevents rumours, that commonly circulate in times of public excitement
+to the detriment often of many individuals in crowded communities. I
+noticed the walls of New York thickly posted with placards chiefly of an
+inflammatory political character. Many of these breathed agrarian
+principles, that would in Europe have been inadmissible, and would,
+without doubt, have led to the immediate arrest and imprisonment of the
+authors. Here, however, they are but little noticed by the populace, and
+not at all, I believe, by the authorities. Cheap newspapers are pushed
+into the face of the passer-by, at the corner of every principal
+thoroughfare, the prices varying from two to six cents. These, as may be
+supposed, contain, together with the current news, every description of
+scandal and trash imaginable, their personality being highly offensive,
+injurious, and reprehensible. Thus the freedom of the press is abused in
+every part of America, and this powerful engine of "good or ill"
+converted from a benefit (as it is if managed with propriety) into a
+public nuisance.
+
+One peculiarity, exceedingly annoying to an Englishman, which is
+observable even in good society in New York and elsewhere in America, is
+a prying curiosity as to the affairs of those with whom they converse.
+Their habits at table also often fill one with disgust, and the want of
+good-breeding I witnessed on more than one occasion would have been
+resented in England. This is the more remarkable, as the Americans
+entertain high notions of refinement, and yet, paradoxical as it may
+appear, seem to glory in their contempt of good manners. I do not,
+however, include the ladies in this remark; on the contrary, I must
+unequivocally assert, that I always observed in them, not only in New
+York, but in every other part of the North American continent which I
+visited, the greatest disposition to cover the misdoings of the opposite
+sex, and a great degree of cultivation and politeness; although they are
+perfectly freezing in their manners before formal introduction, I do not
+doubt that there are many among them of great refinement and powers of
+intellect, their personal appearance being also consonant with their
+known amiability.
+
+The bustle and drive in the trading quarters of the city is very great.
+The merchants and their assistants have a hurried manner of doing
+business, discernible in a moment to a stranger, which is much to be
+deprecated, and too often leads, as I afterwards found, to disastrous
+results. Business with these men is in general quite a "go-a-head" sort
+of affair, and not being accompanied with method, in many cases leads to
+an embarrassed state of circumstances. Thus it frequently happens, that
+on investigation, the assets of a merchant who has stopped payment and
+is a supposed bankrupt, realize more than enough to pay the creditors,
+and the party finds to his agreeable surprise, that his position is not
+so bad after all.
+
+The churches and other places of public worship in New York have a
+temporary appearance, the steeples of the former being, when I visited
+the city, chiefly of painted-wood. This, I believe, is partly the reason
+why bells are not used, although a friend in whose presence I noticed
+this, stated that contempt for so English a custom had much to do with
+their disuse. If so, the prejudice is not confined to New York alone,
+for I was not cheered by the inspiriting sound of a peal in any other
+part of the Union I visited, although I think I have heard they are in
+use in Philadelphia and some of the eastern cities.
+
+The time I had allotted to remain in New York having expired, and being
+anxious to proceed on my route before the close of navigation, I
+reluctantly bade adieu to my kind friends in that city, and made
+preparations to pursue my way to the more western part of the Union,
+hoping to reach the Mississippi country before the season when the
+rivers and canals leading to it would be locked up in ice.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+  "See how yon flaming herald treads
+    The ridged and rolling waves,
+  As, crashing o'er their crested heads,
+    She bows her surly slaves;
+  With foam before and fire behind,
+    She rends the clinging sea,
+  That flies before the roaring wind,
+    Beneath her hissing lea."
+                 HOLMES--_The Steam Boat_.
+
+
+My first stage, in proceeding to the interior of the country, was to
+Albany, 160 miles north of New York. To effect this, I took passage, on
+board a splendidly-equipped steamer, called the _Narraganset_, and
+esteemed at the time the swiftest boat on the Hudson River. I must
+confess I was rather timid when I did so, for the reckless manner in
+which the crack boats are run, in order to maintain their character for
+celerity, is proverbial, and, as may be supposed, is little consonant
+with safe travelling. The almost constant recurrence of steam-boat
+explosions and consequent sacrifice of life, reports of which are daily
+to be seen in the newspapers, weighed somewhat heavily on my mind, and
+the latent fear was not lessened by seeing four barrels of pitch rolled
+on board, the very moment I set foot on the deck of the _Narraganset_. I
+had to console myself, however, as I best could under the circumstances,
+and trust to Providence; but had it not been for the payment of my fare,
+which had previously been arranged, and its inevitable loss if I stopped
+behind, I believe I should have declined the passage, from my horror of
+a race. Although, before the boat got under weigh, my lurking fears of
+explosion were great, they were much enhanced just after starting, in
+consequence of an opposition boat being loosed from her moorings at the
+same minute that our vessel got clear of the levee. This accounted for
+the barrels of pitch I had seen on deck, the heads of which were knocked
+out just as we entered the Hudson, and a portion of the contents thrown
+with the fuel into the roaring furnaces; this powerful generator of
+caloric of course gave increased rapidity to the motion of the engines,
+and in a couple of hours we left our opponent far behind.
+
+It is remarkable that, although the Americans, as a people, travel
+more, perhaps, than any other nation, so little attention is paid by
+them to safety in transit. It is openly avowed that nothing is more
+common than steam-boat explosions and steam disasters of various kinds
+throughout this vast continent; and where boats are constructed to carry
+1000 or 1200 passengers, as is usual on the American rivers, the loss of
+life, in case of accident, is fearful to contemplate. I am aware that
+the subject has been discussed in Congress, and that the question of
+remedial measures has occupied the attention of the Executive during
+several successive Presidentships; but still the evil remains, and the
+public mind in America is almost daily agitated by disasters of this
+nature. As long as the rampant spirit of competition and desire to
+outvie their fellows, which prevails amongst a large class of Americans,
+is tacitly, if not openly, encouraged by the governing powers, such a
+state of things must exist, and will probably increase; but it is a
+positive disgrace to a country possessing great natural attractions,
+and, on this account, visited by many foreigners, that they should by
+this system be exposed to daily peril of their lives. The acts of
+Congress lately promulgated, although apparently stringent, are
+virtually a dead letter, in consequence of the facilities for evasion,
+and the ingenuity of the offenders. The effort to outrun a rival is
+attended by an insane excitement, too often participated in by the
+passengers, who forget for the time that they are in a similar situation
+to a man sitting on a barrel of gunpowder within a few feet of a raging
+furnace. I frequently found myself in such a position, in consequence of
+this dangerous propensity, and the remedy suggested to my mind, and
+which I recommend to others, was never to take a passage, on American
+waters, in a first-class steam-boat, as the principle acted upon is to
+maintain the character of a first-rater at all hazards, regardless of
+the life or limbs of the helpless passengers.
+
+The _Narraganset_, like most of the large river steamers, was
+constructed with three decks, and fitted up in sumptuous style. One
+large saloon, with a portion partitioned off for the ladies, serving as
+a cabin and dining apartment. There is no professed distinction of class
+in the passengers on board steam-boats in America. I found, however,
+that the higher grades, doubtless from the same causes that operate in
+other parts of the world, kept aloof from those beneath them.
+
+The scene from the upper or hurricane deck (as it is called) was very
+attractive. Flowing, as the river Hudson does, through a fine
+mountainous country, the magnificent scenery on the banks strikes the
+observer with feelings allied to awe. The stream being broad and
+tortuous, beetling crags, high mountains and bluffs, and dense forests,
+burst suddenly and unexpectedly into view; fearful precipices abound
+here and there, amidst luxuriant groves and uncouth pine barrens,
+forming altogether a diversity that gives the whole the character of a
+stupendous panorama.
+
+Before we were out of the tide, which for miles flows up the river, our
+vessel grounded three times, but after puffing and straining for a
+considerable time, she got off without damage and pursued her onward
+course. Most of my fellow-voyagers were disposed to be distant and
+taciturn, and so I enjoyed the grandeurs of the scene in solitary
+musings, to which the steamers, sloops under sail, and other vessels
+proceeding up and down the river, gave a pleasant enlivenment. The
+promenade deck, crowded with lady passengers and beautiful children,
+under a gay awning, added to the cheerfulness of the surrounding aspect,
+and the fineness of the weather, but for the fear of collapsing boilers,
+would have made the trip one of great enjoyment.
+
+Another drawback I had nearly forgotten, and as it serves to illustrate
+steam-boat and indeed all other travelling inconveniences in America, I
+must not pass it over; I refer to the vulgarity of the men passengers,
+who, in default of better occupation, chew tobacco incessantly, and, to
+the great annoyance of those who do not practise the vandalism, eject
+the impregnated saliva over everything under foot. The deck of the
+vessel was much defaced by the noxious stains; and even in converse with
+ladies the unmannerly fellows expectorated without sense of decency. The
+ladies, however, seemed not to regard it, and one bright-eyed houri I
+saw looking into the face of a long sallow-visaged young man, who had
+the juice oozing out at each angle of his mouth with disgusting effect,
+so that enunciation was difficult.
+
+Some miles up the Hudson, on a high piece of table-land, amidst romantic
+scenery, stands in prominent relief the military college of West Point.
+It commands an extensive view, and, was, I believe, an important outpost
+during the late war. The young graduates were exercising in parties on
+the parade ground under officers, and appeared dressed in dark jackets
+with silver-coloured buttons, and light blue trowsers. We saw the
+targets used by the graduates in artillery, who practise on the river
+banks; at least, it was so stated by a fellow-passenger, who either was,
+or pretended to be, acquainted with all the affairs of that college.
+
+Beneath the summit of a high bluff, covered with wood, contiguous to
+the college, I observed a monument or obelisk, which I ascertained to
+have been erected to the memory of Kosciusko, a Polish patriot, who took
+a prominent part in the annihilation of British rule in America. It had
+a very picturesque effect, and was regarded with feelings of veneration
+by many of the American passengers, one of whom paid a tribute to the
+departed hero, which he wound up by observing with nasal emphasis and
+lugubrious countenance, "If twarnt for that ere man, wher'd we be, I
+waunt to know; not here I guess." This sentiment, although I could
+scarcely see the point of it myself, elicited half-a-dozen "do tells"
+and "I waunt to knows" from those around; expressions which, foolish as
+they sound to English ears, are in common use in the northern and
+eastern states, when an individual acquiesces in, or is anxious to know
+more about, what is stated.
+
+As the scenery on the Hudson, although picturesque and highly romantic,
+savours somewhat of sameness, I shall forbear any further description of
+it. No one visiting America should omit, if possible, a passage to
+Albany, in order to enjoy, perhaps, the finest natural scenery in the
+world.
+
+The individual who delivered the eulogium I have noted on Kosciusko,
+stated, that at the time of the war, an immense chain cable was thrown
+across the river at West Point, to prevent the British vessels
+proceeding to the interior, and this they in vain tried to destroy by
+firing chain or bar shots.
+
+After a favourable passage, we at length reached Albany, which is an
+extensive city, and the depôt for produce, especially wheat, brought
+_viâ_ the Erie Canal from the interior; being, in fact, the storehouse
+of the trade to and from the interior States of the Union, west, as well
+as from Canada and the Lakes. It is finely situated on the west bank of
+the Hudson; many of its inhabitants are descended from the first
+colonists, especially the adventurous and persevering Dutch, who, like
+the Scotch, cling with tenacity to the spot they fix upon, and quickly
+accumulate property. This city is continually growing in importance,
+from the vast number of small capitalists who flock there and settle;
+and it will eventually, no doubt, vie with New York itself in wealth and
+importance. As I determined to make no stay here, but to proceed up the
+Erie Canal to Buffalo, I did not see much of this place, and must
+therefore omit any lengthened description of it. From what I did see, it
+appeared a densely-populated, well-built city, laid out with much
+regularity, and boasting of many substantial buildings, several of the
+edifices being constructed of white marble.
+
+Having secured a passage on board a canal packet about to start, I at
+once embarked, and in a few hours after was running up the Erie Canal
+at the rate of six miles an hour, the boat being towed by four light
+horses of high mettle. The trappings of these animals were of a novel
+description, bells being appended to various parts of the harness, and
+streamers, or plumes of white hair and gaudy ribbons, floating in the
+air from the bridle of each. A postilion, in a suit of grey, with an
+otter-skin cap, rode on the rearmost or saddle horse, and his
+_nonchalance_ and perfect command of his team were surprising. This boat
+was some sixty yards in length, and constructed only for passengers and
+their luggage. The interior formed a long saloon in miniature, fitted up
+with lounges, and tastefully decorated; a promenade on the deck or top
+furnishing a good place for exercise. At night our saloon was converted
+into a general dormitory, a portion being partitioned off for the
+ladies, by ranges of shelves being suspended from the sides, on which
+were laid the mattresses, &c. Owing to the number of locks and stoppages
+at the miserable towns and villages on the canal banks, our passage to
+Buffalo took several days; and the country being flat and uninteresting,
+although divided into farms, which in general appeared to be in a state
+of tolerable cultivation, I was not a little relieved when we began to
+approach the city.
+
+The formation of the Erie Canal was one of those grand internal
+improvements frequently to be met with in that country, and which have
+contributed to its general prosperity in no small degree. The projector
+of this vast undertaking, De Witt Clinton, is justly esteemed by
+American citizens, who regard him as a public benefactor, and his name
+ranks with the founders of their independence. The canal runs, for a
+considerable distance before it reaches Buffalo, parallel with the lake,
+but separated from it by a sort of artificial sea-wall. As we merged
+into the vicinity of this magnificent inland sea, the sun was shining
+brightly, and gave it the appearance of molten silver. As far as the eye
+could reach, a wide expanse of water presented itself, and the distant
+shores of Canada gave beauty to the scene. At Black-rock we could
+distinguish the sites of the British fortifications, from which in the
+last war red-hot cannon-balls were ejected, to the dismay of the
+terrified Americans, and the destruction of many of their houses.
+
+Buffalo is a flourishing city on the border of Lake Erie, and about
+twenty miles south of the Falls of Niagara. It is within the boundary of
+the state of New York, and has of late years greatly increased in
+extent, wealth, and population. The old town, quite an inconsiderable
+place, on the site of which the present city has risen, phoenix-like,
+was burnt to the ground during the late war, by some British officers,
+who made a sortie from the Canada shores; which circumstance, having
+been handed down from father to son, still rankles in the bosoms of many
+of the older inhabitants, who do not fail to state their belief that
+retributive justice will eventually be administered by the entire
+subjugation of Canada. During my rather prolonged stay in Buffalo, I had
+frequent opportunities of discovering that the most rancorous feelings
+exist on the subject; and in proof of this it may be remembered by the
+reader that the Canadian insurgents were assisted at the late
+insurrection by supplies of stores from this city. These were conveyed
+to Navy Island by the steamer _Caroline_, which was subsequently seized,
+and sent over the Falls of Niagara by the British troops, a number of
+the crew being cruelly massacred.
+
+From inquiries made of parties well informed on the subject, both in
+Canada and the United States, I am convinced that the public act of Sir
+John Colborne, before quitting the governorship of the province, in
+1835, viz., the allotment or appropriation of 346,252 acres of the soil,
+as a clergy reserve, and the institution of the fifty-seven rectories,
+was the chief predisposing cause of the insurrection. By this Act a
+certain portion of land in every township was set apart for the
+maintenance of "a Protestant clergy," under which ambiguous term, the
+clergy of the Church of England have always claimed the sole enjoyment
+of the funds arising from the sale of such portions of land. This is
+looked upon by dissenters of all denominations as a direct infringement
+of the original intention of the Act, which they maintain was for the
+purpose of aiding the Protestant cause at large against the innovations
+of the Roman Catholic Church. Much ill-will and sectarian prejudice are
+the natural consequence; in fact, the Act is a perfect apple of discord
+throughout the Canadas, and has engendered more animosity and resentment
+than any one legislative act, sanctioned by the Home Government, since
+the acquisition (if so it can he called) of the country. It is an
+indelible disgrace to England, that such a manifestly bigoted and
+narrow-minded policy should have been allowed to continue so long; and I
+am fully persuaded that this enactment, which, there is little doubt,
+originated in sectarianism, perpetuates a degree of rancorous feeling in
+the minds of people there, that is sufficient to account for the
+disaffection and tendency to rebellion that ever and anon displays
+itself; and that to remove this blister, and allow the application of
+these funds to all creeds alike, would be to restore peace, and convert
+doubtfully-affected communities to allegiance. If there is one
+consideration that ought to weigh in the minds of the British as a
+people, to endeavour to rivet the affections of the Canadians, more than
+another, and prevent the ultimate cession of that country to the
+Americans, it is, that the dependency affords now the only asylum for
+those persecuted outcasts of humanity, the slaves of the United States.
+Canada, the land of freedom, is associated in their minds with
+paradisaical thoughts of happiness--and many a heart-stricken creature
+in the Southern States of America, as I had many opportunities of
+ascertaining, toils on in content, with "Canada" in view, as the
+ultimatum of his hopes and the land of his redemption.
+
+The population of Buffalo is fluctuating, owing to the vast number of
+emigrants who are constantly arriving, _en route_ to Ohio, Michigan, and
+the far West. It averages in population, about ten thousand. The city is
+not of great extent, and consists in chief of one principal
+thoroughfare, called Maine-street, which is wide, the lower part
+terminating at the water's edge, along which spacious stores are erected
+for the reception of wheat and goods in transit. The harbour is formed
+by an arm of Lake Erie uniting with Buffalo river. Here are always
+congregated a large fleet of steamers, many of them of leviathan
+dimensions, which are employed in running to and from Detroit, in
+Michigan, and the intermediate ports, as well as in the Upper Lake
+trade. Being quite a depôt, Buffalo bids fair, ere the lapse of many
+years, to be the grand emporium of the West. The public buildings do not
+deserve much notice; the Eagle Theatre, a joint-stock concern, being the
+only building of much interest. There are, however, several spacious
+hotels, and two or three banks, that boast some architectural merit,
+although much, I believe, cannot be said as to their stability. The
+lateral streets are rather obscure, and, not being regularly built upon,
+give the city an unfinished look. These are, however, dotted here and
+there with chateaux, having good gardens well arranged. The Niagara
+Railway station is situated to the left of Maine-street, about half-way
+up that premier thoroughfare.
+
+At night the distant moan of the Niagara falls was audible, and this,
+together with what I had heard and read, made me very anxious to visit
+the spot. Accordingly, one splendid morning I started by train for the
+purpose. For some miles before we reached Niagara, we constantly heard
+the roar of the rushing waters, and were thus prepared for the
+stupendous scene that burst upon the view, as we alighted at the doors
+of that _ne plus ultra_ of modern hostelries, the Pavilion Hotel.
+
+My powers of description will fall short of conveying to the mind of
+the reader the awful grandeur of this cataract, so often commented upon
+by travellers. The first impression felt by me was, that the whole
+substratum on which I stood, which seemed to tremble, was about to be
+swept away by the vast inundation. It was not the height of the falls,
+but the immense body of water, which comprehends, with constant
+accumulations from the tributaries on the way, the overflowings of Lakes
+Erie, Superior, Michigan, and Huron. The astonishing effect of such a
+body of water, dashed abruptly over a precipice of 150 perpendicular
+feet, may be conceived; such is the momentum of this immense volume of
+fluid, that, when it strikes the rocky bed at the base of the cataract,
+it rebounds in a thick cloud of vapour--and when the sun's rays
+intercept it, as was the case when I arrived there, a beautiful rainbow
+of vivid colours encircles the area of the chasm, and, together with the
+natural curiosities and situation of the entire scene, presents to the
+amazed beholder, the effect of a highly-executed picture in a frame of
+sun-light, although far surpassing the productions of human skill, which
+may well be said, in comparison, to sink into utter insignificance.
+
+A large company of visitors were assembled at the time of my arrival,
+probably from all parts of the world--so that I found it impossible to
+get a bed, unless I penetrated into the interior with a view to obtain
+accommodation at some farm-house, or crossed to the Canada side; but,
+feeling too tired, after the day's excitement, to pursue either such
+course, I took an evening train and returned to Buffalo the same day,
+where I arrived at 9 P.M.
+
+About three miles from Buffalo is an Indian village, called Tonawanda. I
+frequently saw parties of the inhabitants, who resort to the city to
+dispose of their wares and produce. Some of the warriors were fine
+athletic fellows, of great stature, the lowest I saw being over six feet
+in height. They were clothed in tanned buck-skin, curiously fringed and
+ornamented with porcupine-quills richly dyed; their squaws (wives) being
+enveloped in fine Canadian blue broad cloth, their favourite costume;
+the crimson or other gaudy-coloured selvedge forming a conspicuous
+ornament.
+
+Like all the aborigines of America, they cling with tenacity to primeval
+habits and customs, resisting every attempt made by the white
+population, to make or persuade them to conform to civilized life. The
+ill-usage they have been subjected to by the Americans, may, however,
+account for this in a great measure. They were described to me by one of
+the residents as a dissipated set of fellows, who squandered all they
+got in "fire-water," as they term ardent spirits, and when inebriated
+are so quarrelsome that it is dangerous in the highest degree to
+irritate them.
+
+Not very long after I arrived, a circumstance occurred that threatened
+most fearful consequences. The Indians whom I have before referred to
+were in the frequent habit, when they came to the city, to dispose of
+their produce (for many of them followed husbandry) of getting so tipsy,
+that there was continual danger of bloodshed; their natural animosity on
+such occasions being roused with fearful vehemence, so that the
+authorities were compelled to adopt some steps to remedy the evil. It
+was no uncommon occurrence to see an Indian waggon by the road-side,
+with its pair of horses _sans_ driver, who might have been found either
+drunk or quarreling at the other end of the city. And although the
+horses were always impounded, and a fine inflicted, still the nuisance
+continued without abatement, in fact, was rather on the increase. The
+new Mayor, being a man more alive than his predecessor to this evil,
+caused a regulation to be passed by the Civic Council, that any Indian
+found so far the worse for liquor in the streets of Buffalo as to be
+incapable of taking care of himself, should be punished by being made to
+work on the high roads for a short period, with an iron ball and chain
+attached to his leg. When this law was promulgated, there was a strong
+impression that the Indians would show resistance. This was soon found
+to be a correct view of the case, for not a week had elapsed before two
+warriors were brought before the Mayor, and sentenced to ten days'
+probation at road-mending, in pursuance of the decree. They had,
+however, only been at work two days in the upper part of Maine-street,
+in charge of two constables, when a large body of their fraternity,
+armed _cap-a-pié,_ entered the city, and, with horrid yells and
+brandished tomahawks, rescued the culprits, knocked off their chains,
+and carried them in triumph to the Indian village, amidst fearful
+threats of fire and blood. As this attack was unexpected, no resistance
+was offered; and although there was much discussion afterwards, about
+the laws being vindicated and an example being made, the matter, from
+motives, no doubt, of public safety, was allowed to drop, and for the
+future the red men had it all their own way, although there were
+certainly signs of amendment, and the evil decreased to a very great
+extent. The Indian maxim being, "Firm in friendship but ruthless in
+war," there is little doubt that the course pursued on this occasion by
+the city authorities, was the best under such circumstances.
+
+Lake Erie is a fine piece of water, being 265 miles long, from Buffalo
+to Detroit, the two extreme ends, and averaging about 60 miles broad. At
+its north-east end it communicates with Lake Ontario and the Canadian
+shores, by the gut or strait of Niagara. Towards the west end are
+numerous islands and banks, which are furnished with light-houses for
+the guidance of the mariner. Its waters wash the foot of Maine-street
+(Buffalo) where they meet the river from which that city takes its name.
+It is frequently visited by furious gales, which play havoc with the
+steamers, many of which are annually wrecked.
+
+While I remained in Buffalo, I took several excursions to the towns that
+skirt this beautiful inland sea. On one of these occasions, the steamer
+was driven by stress of weather to take shelter in the small harbour of
+Huron, some distance up the lake; this we reached with much difficulty,
+the violence of the sea threatening every moment the total destruction
+of the vessel. As we entered the harbour, the air rang with a shout of
+welcome from the inhabitants of the place, who had been watching our
+perilous progress in great anxiety, and were assembled at the end of the
+little pier. Here we remained for two days and nights, the wind blowing
+all that time with the fury of a hurricane; the lake, during the storm,
+presenting the appearance of the sea in a stiff north-wester, the
+white-crested waves rising in violent commotion to a fearful height.
+
+Huron is but a small and uninteresting place, situate in a most
+unwholesome locality, lying opposite to a murky swamp, whose poisonous
+vapours spread disease and death around. It is the highway to Sandusky
+city, an inland border town, rendered famous for the obstinacy with
+which the inhabitants and a body of U.S. Infantry defended a fort there
+against the attacks of the British troops in 1812. Having ascertained
+the captain's intention not to sail until the day following, and it
+being described as a very attractive spot, I hired a horse, and, after a
+seven miles' ride through a country dotted with farm houses, which had a
+desolate look, and the lands appertaining to which were subdivided by
+zigzag log fences (hedges being unknown in the back settlements), I
+reached the so-called city, which is built in nearly the form of a
+parallelogram, the area of greensward having a pretty effect. Here are
+some good hotels, and a seminary or college for young ladies, which is
+much patronized by the better classes of the northern and eastern
+states, especially New York. I looked in vain for the Fort, which has,
+since the war, been demolished; but the landlord of the hotel at which
+I afterwards dined, took me to its site, and related several incidents
+that occurred in connection with the fortress, and the struggle between
+the belligerent parties at the time. As, however, I considered these
+somewhat apocryphal, from several of his relations failing to hang
+together, and his decided bias against the Britishers, as he called the
+English, I shall not trouble the reader with the details. After viewing
+the place and its suburbs to my satisfaction, and after an excellent
+dinner of green maize and venison, I rode back to the steamer.
+
+It was towards evening when I arrived; and, as I approached Huron, by
+the banks of the creek that divides the swamp I have mentioned, and
+which was unusually swollen, I noticed a canoe that had broken loose
+from its moorings, drifting down the current; a moment afterwards the
+owner arrived in breathless haste, to endeavour to save it from
+destruction; his exertions were, however, useless, and, finding there
+was no alternative, he hailed the bystanders, and offered the reward of
+a dollar to any one who would swim to and paddle the canoe on shore;
+this offer was eagerly caught at by a tall man, of great muscular power,
+who was amongst the crowd, and who at once threw off his coat and
+plunged into the stream. This was very rapid, and, after a few moments
+battling with the turbid current, he was overpowered; uttering a loud
+cry for assistance, which I shall never forget and which rang in my ears
+like a death knell, he disappeared from the view of the spectators, and,
+being probably entangled in the trees and debris that were floating down
+the torrent, he did not rise again. A loud wail arose from the terrified
+assemblage, who were unable to render the poor fellow any assistance,
+and who ran about in frantic excitement. The canoe was lost, being
+carried at a rapid rate into the open lake, where it capsized, and sunk
+immediately. After dragging for the body for upwards of an hour, it was
+fished up from under some logs of timber moored some distance below
+where the catastrophe occurred. The body being landed and placed on the
+bank, a loud altercation ensued as to the means to be used to attempt
+resuscitation--a vain hope--but still persisted in by those assembled.
+Some wanted to roll it on a barrel, others to suspend it by the heels,
+that the water might be voided. At length a doctor arrived, and, after
+some inquiry, pronounced effort useless, from the time the body had been
+under water. This at once damped the ardour of the crowd, although it
+did not discourage a female, who had taken a prominent part in the
+operations, and who, with that true womanly tenderness and solicitude
+which do honour to her sex, and which are nowhere more conspicuous than
+in America, insisted upon the corpse being taken to a neighbouring
+house, where, like a ministering angel, she persevered in her efforts
+for a considerable time, although of course without effect.
+
+The banks of Lake Erie, in the vicinity of Huron, are thickly studded
+with small trees and coppice wood. This scenery, being interspersed with
+open natural meadow-land, gives it a park-like aspect, and several spots
+would, graced with a mansion, have formed an estate any nobleman in
+Europe might have been proud of, the shores of Canada, looming in the
+hazy distance, giving a fine effect to the scene.
+
+The noise and disagreeable odour arising from the bull-frogs and other
+reptiles that infest the swamp opposite the village at night, filled the
+air, and rendered it impossible for me to sleep. As I lay restless on my
+bed, I suddenly heard a gun fired, and, starting up in some alarm, I
+hastily put on my clothes and descended to the bar of the hotel. Here
+several of the inmates were assembled, and were preparing to cross the
+creek with lanterns, to explore the swamp, cries of distress having been
+distinctly heard, as of some benighted traveller who had lost his way.
+After listening intently, and firing several rifles to guide the
+wanderer or apprize him that assistance was at hand, the party crossed
+the creek in a canoe, and moved along the skirts of the morass,
+hallooing loudly all the time; the cries, however, heard only at
+intervals at the commencement, became gradually indistinct, and at last
+ceased altogether. After an ineffectual search for an hour or more, the
+party again turned towards Huron, strongly impressed with the belief,
+that the unfortunate being had sunk with his horse in the soft bed of
+the swamp, which is some miles in extent, and had perished miserably.
+The day following, I visited the nearest point from which the cries were
+heard, but I could discern no sign of the sufferer, nor could I even
+trace footmarks; this, however, is not remarkable, as they would
+speedily be obliterated by the many reptiles nurtured in the morass. It
+was afterwards questioned, whether the supposed wanderer was only a
+catamount, a species of jaguar that emits doleful cries at night.
+
+The storm having abated, I soon after returned on board, and in due
+course reached Buffalo, where I had the pleasure of meeting with an old
+acquaintance, from whom I had long been separated, and who had delayed
+his intended voyage up the lake, to await my return. A large proportion
+of the population of Buffalo are people of colour, and one quarter of
+the town is almost exclusively inhabited by them; many of these, I
+regret to add, are living in a state of degradation pitiable to behold,
+apparently without the least endeavour being made by their white
+fellow-citizens to improve their condition. Some of these coloured
+people keep eating-houses, for the accommodation of those of their own
+complexion, but the greater number are employed as stokers and
+steam-boat hands. A few of these men, despite the prejudice that exists
+(and it is nowhere in the Union more marked than in Buffalo), rise above
+the common level, and by that probity of character and untiring energy,
+which I believe to be inherent in the race, become men of substance.
+
+One instance of this deserves especial notice, as the subject of it had,
+entirely by the good qualities mentioned, amassed a fortune, and had
+married a woman of English birth. I was introduced to this individual
+some time after my arrival in Buffalo, and his singularly correct views
+and uprightness of character made me partial to his company. His wife
+was a notable, well-informed, good-looking woman, about forty years of
+age. Irrespective of colour, I certainly admired her discrimination in
+the choice of a partner, although she was looked down upon by the wives
+of the white citizens, and, in common with her husband, was almost
+entirely shunned by them. There may, perhaps, have been a higher
+consideration than that of a good settlement to cause an English woman
+in this instance to marry a dark mulatto; but I was always of opinion,
+and she confirmed this by hints dropped casually, that the consideration
+of a fortune had more to do with the alliance than love. This gentleman
+kept a good house, and had many servants. His wife being fond of
+amusements, he hired a box for her use at the Eagle Theatre, which she
+always attended alone, the etiquette of the white citizens not
+permitting his attendance with her. He appeared almost always in a
+desponding mood, a tendency arising entirely from the insulting
+demeanour used towards him by the citizens; and he frequently talked of
+removing to Canada, or the far West, to avoid the treatment he was
+subjected to at the hands of a pack of young scoundrels, who took every
+opportunity to annoy and treat him with indignity for marrying a white
+woman. The consequence was, that neither he nor his wife scarcely ever
+ventured out. If they did so, it was never in company, and usually after
+dark. I was politely offered the use of their box at the theatre during
+my stay, and on one occasion availed myself of the offer. But I never
+ventured again--the box was evidently marked, and during the performance
+I was subjected to the most disgusting remarks and behaviour from the
+audience. Indeed, this was carried so far, that I retired long before
+the curtain dropped. So intent were his fellow-citizens on annoying
+this inoffensive man, that soon after he was mobbed in Maine-street by
+the young desperadoes I have referred to, who, from their determined
+opposition to intermixed marriages, were known in the place as
+"anti-amalgamists." On this occasion poor P---- nearly lost his life,
+and, but for running, would, no doubt, have done so; as it was, he was
+much burnt about the head and neck, the ruffians in the scuffle having
+set fire to his frock-coat, which was of linen.
+
+It is rather remarkable that, at St. Louis, on the Missouri, some ten
+months afterwards, I met this very man, he having purchased some
+government land in a remote part of that state. Our meeting was quite
+accidental, for I crossed the street and accosted him as he was hurrying
+along. In the course of our interview he pressed me earnestly to go up
+the country with him; but this I declined from motives of prudence, the
+route lying through a slave-holding state, where a white and coloured
+man travelling on terms of equality, would be sure to excite suspicion.
+He had a small bundle of papers under his arm, and on my remarking he
+appeared intent on business, he stated they were his free papers, and
+that not ten minutes before he had been challenged to produce them; but
+this, he said, would not have prevented his arrest and detention in the
+city gaol until the authorities of Buffalo had been written to under
+suspicion of his being a fugitive, had he not taken the precaution,
+before he left that city, to obtain from the mayor a certificate of his
+intention to proceed to the Missouri country, and the object of his
+visit. He told me that if he liked his purchase, he should build a house
+on it, and cultivate the land as a farm, as his continued residence in
+Buffalo, after the disposition to annoy him shown by the citizens,
+rendered his stay there out of the question. I afterwards dined with him
+at his "hotel," which was an obscure tavern in an unfrequented part of
+the city, in and about which I saw several coloured people. I afterwards
+ascertained that this was what is there derisively termed a "nigger
+boarding-house," and that the keepers of superior hotels would not think
+of accommodating a coloured person even for a night. From subsequent
+experience in such matters, I have no doubt that this version was a true
+one.
+
+The hotels and cafés in the Slave States are all frequented by slave
+owners and dealers; these would not think of putting up at quarters
+where "coloured folks" were entertained. This distinction is so marked,
+that no negro would attempt to apply for refreshment at the bar of such
+places, as the inevitable consequence of such a liberty would be
+refusal, if not summary ejectment. It is therefore the custom, in all
+southern towns and cities, for the negro population to resort to places
+kept expressly for the accommodation of coloured people. These are not
+always kept by men of their own complexion, but often by white men, who,
+having become friendly with them, have lost caste with the whites, and
+are in fact discarded by them.
+
+In the harbour of Buffalo, I saw two brigs, that during the war in 1812
+had been captured by the Americans, and sunk somewhere up the lake on
+the American side. These had recently been raised by means of apparatus
+invented by an ingenious American. They were strong, substantially-built
+brigs, of about 250 tons burden each. I was surprised to find what a
+preserving effect the lake water had upon the timber, the wood being
+almost black in colour, and so hard that it was difficult to make an
+impression upon it even with an axe. These vessels had been sold to a
+shipping company, and were at the time employed, I think, in the Chicago
+or Upper Lake trade.
+
+I had frequently heard of the number of rattle and other snakes to be
+met with on the banks of the lake, but these have been nearly
+exterminated by the settlers. During my stay in the suburbs I only found
+a few water-snakes, basking in the sun amongst the wilderness of
+aquatic plants that cover the surface of the water in the creeks.
+
+The superstitious dread of inhaling the east wind blowing from the mouth
+of the lake, is now exploded, and is considered in the light of a
+by-gone tale; although, for three-quarters of a century, it was
+considered baneful even to the healthy. Consumptive patients are,
+however, soon carried off, the biting blasts from the Canadian shores
+proving very fatal in pulmonary complaints, and the winters being very
+severe.
+
+A plentiful supply of excellent fish of various sorts, is procured from
+the lake. These are salted in barrels, and find a ready market in the
+northern and eastern states.
+
+My abode in the city of Buffalo extended over the greater part of a
+year, and during this period I had frequent opportunities of witnessing
+that tendency to overreach that has, perhaps, with some justice, been
+called a disposition in the generality of Americans to defraud. I do not
+mean to stygmatize any particular class of men in this imputation, but I
+must record my decided conviction, arising from transactions with them,
+that business with the mass of citizens there is not that upright system
+that obtains with such successful results in the mother country, amongst
+those engaged in commercial relations. Perhaps it would be but fair to
+make some excuse for men of this class, in a country whose heterogeneous
+population, and consequent exposure to competition, renders it a
+struggle to obtain a livelihood. It is notorious that thousands of men
+in America are obliged, as it were, to succumb to this influence or
+become paupers, and are thus driven out of the paths of strict rectitude
+and honesty of purpose, and compelled to resort to all sorts of
+chicanery to enable them to make two ends meet. In no instance is this
+more observable than in the "selling" propensities of the Americans.
+"For sale" seems to be the national motto, and would form an admirable
+addendum to the inscription displayed on the coins, "_E pluribus unum_."
+Everything a man possesses is voluntarily subjected to the law of
+interchange. The farmer, the land speculator, and the keeper of the
+meanest grocery or barber's stall, are alike open to "a trade," that is,
+an exchange of commodities, in the hope or prospect of some profit,
+honestly or dishonestly, being attached to the transaction. This induces
+a loose, gambling propensity, which, indulged in to excess, often leads
+to ruin and involvement, and, if absolute beggary is deferred, causes
+numerous victims to be perpetually floundering in debt, difficulty, and
+disgrace.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+  "Then blame mo not that I should seek, although I know not thee,
+  To waken in thy heart its chords of holiest sympathy,
+  It is for woman's bleeding heart, for woman's humbled form,
+  O'er which the reeking lash is swung, with life's red current warm."
+                                               E M CHANDLER
+
+
+On a fine morning in June, I took my departure from Buffalo, in the lake
+steamer _Governor Porter_, for the port of Cleveland in the state of
+Ohio. The sun was shining on the silvery bosom of the lake, which in a
+dead calm gave it a refulgent glassy appearance. We had not, however,
+been two hours at sea before the clouds began to collect, and a heavy
+gale came on with rapidity. This continued to increase until the day
+following, during which the vessel had passed Cleveland, the place of
+my destination, and was driving before a furious north-wester towards
+Detroit, at the head of the lake. The captain stated that all his
+endeavours to make the landing-place at Cleveland had been unavailing,
+but if those passengers whom he had engaged to land there would proceed
+with him on the voyage to his destination, he would land them on his
+return, which he said would probably be in three or four days. As this
+offer necessarily included board, the three passengers, who were in the
+same predicament as myself, after a short consultation agreed to accept
+it; and as time was not an object to me, I did not demur, for I much
+wished to have a view of the country in that direction. Had either of us
+dissented, the captain would, probably, have landed us at the next port,
+a result that would have involved the expense and inconvenience of a
+thirty miles' ride, or thereabouts, to Cleveland, in a rough stage, over
+rougher roads.
+
+The weather moderated towards sunset, and we had a very favourable
+passage to the head of the lake, and entering Detroit harbour, which
+lies at the foot of the town, I soon after landed, and took a stroll
+into it. It is not a very populous place, the inhabitants being, I
+should say, under 4000. The houses are in general, heavy dirty-looking
+buildings, though the streets are tolerably wide, and built with
+regularity. It is, I believe, peopled principally by French and Dutch,
+who appeared to be in low circumstances, and who follow the usual town
+occupations.
+
+This town, which is essentially Gaelic in appearance, is situated on the
+west side of the strait, between Lakes St. Clare and Erie, and is within
+sight of Malden in Canada, with the shores of which province a constant
+trade or communication is kept up by steam. Here is situated an
+extensive government agency for the sale of land in Michigan; whither,
+at the time, vast numbers of new settlers were daily proceeding in
+search of homes and happiness. I saw many of these on their way, and as
+they toiled to their new homes, they looked haggard, forlorn, and
+abject; and I thought I could distinguish in almost all, especially the
+women, an aspect of grief that indicated they were exiles, who had left
+behind all that tended to make life joyous and happy, to seek a
+precarious existence in an unknown wilderness. As the town afforded few
+attractions, the only place of amusement being a temporary theatrical
+exhibition, I was not a little rejoiced when the vessel again started
+down the lake, which she did with every advantage of favourable weather.
+In due course we reached Cleveland, and, as I was anxious to proceed
+onwards, I took but a cursory view of the place, which is, like
+Detroit, situated on a somewhat rising ground. It appeared a thriving
+town, and the hotels were in general superbly fitted up.
+
+As I was strolling towards the canal to take my passage to the Ohio
+river, a little incident occurred, which, as it illustrates a very old
+adage, I will not omit. Passing some low-built houses near the canal, my
+attention was arrested by the screams of a female, who uttered loud
+cries for assistance.
+
+Hastening to the door of the house from which the alarm proceeded, I
+lifted the latch in great trepidation, when I saw a man just about to
+strike a woman (who proved to be his wife) with an uplifted chair. The
+fellow was vociferating loudly, and appeared in a towering passion. My
+first impulse was to cry out "Drop it!" when, lo! as if I had, like
+Katerfelto, the by-gone professor of legerdemain, cried "Presto," the
+scene changed, and both man and woman, who were Americans of the lower
+class, commenced bullying me in right earnest. I made my retreat with
+some difficulty, as they seemed, both of them, inclined to serve me
+roughly for my well-intentioned, though, perhaps, mistimed interference.
+As I made my escape, however, I intimated, pretty loudly, that I should
+at once apply to a magistrate on the subject, a threat, by-the-bye, that
+was little regarded, and only increased the showers of abuse levelled
+at me. As my appealing to a magistrate would be of little avail in the
+case of a family jar, and would certainly have entailed inconvenience
+and delay, I did not carry my threat into execution, wondering, at the
+same time, at my temerity in interfering in a quarrel between man and
+wife, which I now practically learnt, for the first time in my life, was
+to incur the unmitigated anger of both, and to learn how true it is that
+
+  "Those who in quarrels interpose,
+  Must oft expect a bloody nose."
+
+I visited the portion of the town appropriated by the Mormons as a
+residence. Here, in the midst of their dwellings, they had erected a
+temple for worship, which, on their emigrating west, their arch-leader,
+Smith, prophesied would, by the interposition of heaven, be destroyed by
+fire. The prophecy was verified as to the fact, but heaven had, it
+appeared, little to do with it; for it was ascertained to be the work of
+an incendiary of their sect, who was detected and brought to condign
+punishment.
+
+I was afterwards informed by an American gentleman, to whom I had a
+letter of introduction, and who had been a great sufferer by these
+impostors, that some time before the great body of Mormons migrated to
+the interior, they started a bank. Having managed to put a vast number
+of their notes in circulation, for which they received produce, they
+closed the doors, and left the public to be losers by their nefarious
+schemes. I had the misfortune myself, in my ignorance, to take from a
+dishonest store-keeper a ten-dollar bill of this spurious currency, and
+did not detect the imposture until I offered it to the captain of the
+boat I had engaged a passage in to _La Belle Rivière_, as the Ohio is
+called. I must mention, however, that I took it previously to the
+interview with the gentleman I have adverted to, and actually, without
+knowing it, had the note in my pocket-book when he mentioned the default
+of these pseudo bankers. I paid ten dollars for a useful lesson.
+
+The passengers from Cleveland formed a motley group; for, irrespective
+of French, Dutch, Americans, and Canadians, we had on board eight or ten
+families of the Mormon sect, following in the wake of their leaders,
+Smith and Rigdon, to their new settlement in the far west. These people
+were very reserved, and seemed inclined to keep aloof from their
+fellow-passengers. This, however, may be accounted for by the prejudice
+so justly existing at the time against them, as a body, from the causes
+I have already mentioned; in fact, the indignation of the people could
+hardly be kept in check by the authorities, and lynching was resorted
+to on more than one occasion. The men were clothed in drab broad-cloth,
+and wore large white hats; their garb altogether resembling that of the
+more respectable Society of Friends, in America. The resemblance,
+however, ceases with the dress, for, if reports speak true, and they are
+many-tongued, they are very exceptionable in their morality and general
+principles, amongst other peculiarities, polygamy being allowed, for the
+avowed purpose of extending and perpetuating the sect.
+
+Our progress was pretty rapid, though it lay through an uninteresting
+country, in many parts uncultivated and barren-looking. Massillon is a
+very flourishing town, with some good stores and two or three hotels. As
+the captain was obliged to make a short stay here, I went into the town
+and, stepping into an hotel to procure a cigar, I found a company
+engaged in earnest conversation, interrupted at intervals by loud
+laughter. On inquiry, I was told that the landlord had that morning been
+played a Yankee trick by a travelling pedlar, who had stopped the
+previous night at his house. It appeared that the same man had some
+months before practised on the landlord; but, either supposing the
+matter blown over and forgotten, or, what is more likely, with a view to
+put another of his arts into exercise, he again put up at the same
+house. The proprietor, however, at once recognized the pedlar, and
+after taxing him with the cheat he had practised on the former occasion,
+wound up his lecture by stating, in true American style, that if he
+again succeeded in cheating him he would forego the amount of his tavern
+expenses. The man exclaimed, "Done," and at once it appeared set his
+wits to work to obtain the object. A few hours after the conversation,
+the fellow brought in from his waggon some boxes of fancy goods, and
+endeavoured to induce the landlady to purchase. This, however, no doubt
+prompted by her husband, she resolutely refused, and he had them removed
+to his room upstairs, as is customary. After breakfast, the following
+morning, he called the landlady aside and said he forgot the day before
+to show her a fancy quilt of superior workmanship, and if she would only
+look at it he would be satisfied, as it was one of great beauty. She
+consented to this, and the man at once went to his waggon, which was now
+at the door, he being about to start, and brought in a box which
+contained, amongst numerous other articles, the quilt he had been
+eulogizing. The landlady was much taken with its appearance, and after
+some little persuasion consented to become the purchaser. Accordingly,
+the bargain was concluded, and the balance between his tavern bill and
+the article in question was handed over at the hotel bar to the pedlar,
+who at once started from the house, the landlord on his doing so
+jocosely remarking on the conversation of the previous day, in reply to
+which the wily pedlar observed, that "he guessed it was all right." Soon
+after the man left, the landlady called her spouse to the inner room,
+and showing him her bargain, said she had been induced to buy the quilt,
+because it was an exact match for the one in the large room up-stairs.
+This led to a female help (as servants are there called), being
+despatched to the room to fetch and compare the original with that newly
+purchased. The girl speedily returned in the greatest consternation,
+saying it had vanished. The truth now became apparent; the artful pedlar
+had actually sold the landlady her own quilt!
+
+This ludicrous circumstance led to the confusion I had noticed when I
+arrived; the man had gone they knew not whither, and had it been
+possible to overtake him, I question whether he would have been pursued,
+the cleverness of the trick being highly applauded by the company, and
+the landlord feeling, perhaps, ashamed of being outwitted a second time,
+after himself giving the challenge. The ingenuity of American pedlars in
+cozening their countrymen, has long been proverbial, and in general,
+people are wary of them; they have, however, I suppose by long
+practice, become such adepts at roguery, that however alive to their
+propensities, folks are daily victimized by such men. It was nothing new
+to hear a roguish action applauded, but on this occasion the company
+were vociferous in his praise, and declared they would certainly
+patronize him when he came that way again, for he deserved
+encouragement.
+
+After strolling through the town, which presented little worth
+recording, I again returned to the boat, which proceeded on its way. I
+had frequently heard and read of those vast flocks of wild pigeons which
+periodically pursue their flight to milder latitudes: and, as the boat
+was now approaching the centre of the state of Ohio, where myriads of
+these birds were seen the year before, I anxiously watched the horizon
+for their appearance. For several days, however, I was doomed to
+disappointment, and gave it up in despair; but a day or two after, when
+in the vicinity of the Tuscarawas river, it being about noon, the
+helmsman suddenly called out, "A field of pigeons." This announcement
+called all hands to the promenade deck of the packet. Looking in the
+direction indicated, a heavy black cloud appeared in the far horizon;
+this seemed to extend from right to left, and was so dense that the
+novices amongst us at once pronounced it, either a mistake or a hoax.
+The helmsman declared that it was neither, and that we should soon be
+convinced of it. The cloud seemed now gradually and visibly to spread;
+in truth, the whole firmament in that direction was totally obscured. By
+this time a general rummage had commenced in the boat for fire-arms; the
+captain hailed the driver on the towing path, who pulled up, and the
+boat was moored by the canal side. We now landed, intending to replenish
+the larder of the vessel with what, to most of the passengers, was a
+rare treat. On the left bank of the canal, and on the banks of the
+river, which here ran parallel with it, was a forest of gigantic trees;
+and, as the birds were evidently making in that direction, it was
+decided that all those who wished to take part in the expected sport,
+should proceed, and wait their passing this spot, in the hope that some
+would settle on the branches of the trees. Accordingly, after crossing
+the river by a rude bridge, which was very nearly half a quarter of a
+mile in length, we reached the intended spot after wading up to our
+knees in a swamp or turbary, and getting miserably bemauled by the
+briars and cane vines. We had not to wait long; the birds, wearied by a
+long flight, were evidently attracted by the favourable resting-place,
+and in less than a quarter of an hour, the air was darkened with the
+hosts hovering over our heads; the sound of their wings defies
+description, those of my readers who remember the peculiar noise made by
+a single pigeon in its flight, may form a faint idea by multiplying the
+sound a million times. It in fact filled the air, and produced a
+startling effect. Thousands of the birds alighted on the trees, the
+branches of which snapped and crackled fearfully under the
+superincumbent load; those of our party who were armed, continued to
+fire and load as fast as they possibly could. They brought hundreds to
+the ground, but still, through weariness, perhaps, the rest kept their
+station on the branches, and did not appear to heed the attack
+much--shifting their position or only flying off for a moment and then
+again alighting. By this time many of the settlers from the surrounding
+districts had arrived to share in the quarry. Thousands of birds were
+brought to the ground; in fact, every discharge of the guns and rifles
+brought down showers to our feet; and the noise seemed to resemble our
+being engaged in action with a foe; without, however, the dire effects
+of such a rencontre to ourselves. After bagging our game, of which we
+secured nearly two hundred brace, we returned to the boat, leaving the
+rest of the sport to those who chose to continue it. We had enough, and,
+for the remainder of the passage, were completely surfeited with pigeon
+fare, administered by the boat's cook in all sorts of outlandish forms.
+In our progress onward through the state, we saw many carcases of these
+birds outside the villages, such numbers having been destroyed, that the
+inhabitants could not consume them, and they were accordingly thrown out
+as refuse. These birds were in good condition, and were excellent
+eating.
+
+As the packet was likely to be detained for some hours at Zoar, a
+settlement about two miles beyond Bolivar, owing to a dispute between
+the captain and some officers connected with the canal, I availed myself
+of the opportunity, on the invitation of a very gentlemanly
+fellow-passenger from Connecticut, to visit a farm a few miles in the
+interior, where resided a celebrated character, named Adam Poe, surnamed
+by the inhabitants, the "Indian-killer," who had acquired the summit of
+a backwoods-man's fame, by some forty years ago shooting "Black-foot," a
+formidable Indian marauder, who, for a long period, spread consternation
+and alarm among the early settlers. As this exploit (whether justified
+by the circumstances and times or not, I cannot pretend to say) was one
+that restored security among the settlers, and dispersed a body of
+Indians, who destroyed every white inhabitant they encountered, and laid
+waste their farms, it is no wonder that Adam Poe was regarded as a great
+man. On arriving at the farm-house, which was one of the better
+description in that region, we were kindly welcomed by the son of the
+hero I have mentioned, who bore the father's patronymic, and after the
+usual hospitality, were ushered into an adjoining apartment, and
+introduced to the object of our visit. He was sitting in an armchair by
+the side of his wife, who, like himself, was far advanced in years,
+their united ages numbering 173. The old man, who was so feeble as to be
+unable to rise when we entered, saluted us with the usual "Glad to see
+you, strangers," his spouse at the same time advancing towards us to
+shake hands. He was evidently used to such intrusions; for, after
+inquiry where we came from and whither bound, he began, in a tremulous
+voice, which, from his extreme age, was scarcely intelligible, to
+narrate his early adventures. It was absolutely shocking, as he became
+more animated by the subject, to hear the coolness with which the
+veteran related some of his bloody combats; so much so, indeed, that I
+and my companion at once cut short his narration, being horrified at the
+turpitude of the aged sinner, who, although gasping for breath, and
+evidently on the verge of the unseen world, talked of his deeds of
+violence with an ardour that befitted a better cause.
+
+The old man dwelt at great length on his hair-breadth escapes and deeds
+of prowess; but the destruction of the implacable "Black-foot," was the
+absorbing subject. This chief, it appeared, had, with a small party,
+been hovering round Poe's farm for several nights, and the inmates were
+in great terror of a midnight attack; the principal aim of the chief,
+being, it is supposed to despatch a man, whose activity had rendered him
+particularly obnoxious to his tribe, and whose bravery was acknowledged
+by the settlers far and near.
+
+After several nights passed in anxiety, every little circumstance, any
+unusual noise, the baying of a dog, a disturbance in the hog-pens,
+exciting the greatest apprehension, Poe determined on stealthily
+watching the enemy under covert of a hillock or embankment on the farm.
+He accordingly sallied out with his Indian rifle, in the haze of the
+evening, taking with him a supply of _aqua vitae,_ as he facetiously
+said, to keep up his "dander." After watching a considerable time, every
+now and then applying his ear to the ground to listen for approaching
+footsteps (a plan invariably followed by Indians themselves), he
+ascertained that an Indian was in the vicinity; again intently
+listening, he soon satisfied himself that the alarm he had experienced
+was occasioned by one individual only. Instantly on the _qui-vive,_ he
+first cocked his rifle, and, just as he descried the Indian's head
+above the embankment he pulled with unerring aim the fatal trigger, when
+with an agonizing howl, the Indian toppled backwards down the
+embankment, and all was silent. Poe now sprang forward, and with his
+knife severed the "war scalp" from the head of the savage, and after
+securing his knife and rifle, returned to his home in high glee to
+announce the horrid achievement. It was, however, deemed unsafe to
+venture out again that night, for fear of other Indians of Black-foot's
+band, who it was well known were in the neighbourhood.
+
+In the morning Poe sallied out to the place of reconnoitre with some of
+the inmates of the farm. Here they found, stretched on the ground,
+weltering in gore, the vanquished warrior, who was now, for the first
+time, from a plume he wore, and some other peculiarity in his
+equipments, identified as the veritable "Sachem," who had for months
+kept that settlement in a state of alarm. Poe was soon complimented by
+the settlers around, and from that day forward became a celebrated
+character.
+
+I was subsequently told on board the canal packet, that the Indian
+referred to, was not the notorious chief of that name, but a second-rate
+warrior, who, having headed a band of marauders, ***med the soubriquet.
+How far this may be the fact, I cannot determine. I, however,
+frequently heard Poe's name mentioned as a brave defender of the
+hearths and homes of the early settlers in the remote districts of Ohio.
+
+I could perceive that his son's wife (a matronly dame of about sixty),
+was adverse to such interviews, as, to use her expression, "they brought
+the old man back to this world again, when he should be pondering on the
+next," and that she was grieved at the recital of them; indeed, she
+several times checked his expressions, when they bordered, as they not
+unfrequently did, on impiety. She acted rightly, for there was evidently
+much more of the soldier than the Christian about the old man, and
+before we left I expressed a hope that such visits would be discouraged,
+a suggestion that was received in a kindly spirit.
+
+After inspecting the farm, which was well stocked, and appeared to be
+cultivated in the most approved modern style, and was well fenced with
+the usual rails, we started on our return to Zoar, where the packet had
+halted. On our way thither, we passed through a hamlet of primitive
+appearance, consisting of some half-dozen houses built of logs, at one
+end of which was a rudely-constructed meeting-house, belonging to the
+sect of Whitfieldite Methodists. The congregation was assembled, and the
+horses and vehicles belonging to those who resided at a distance, were
+tethered and my companion passed, the occupants were chanting a hymn
+previous to the discourse, which it appeared was a valedictory one, the
+minister being about to leave this for a more extensive field of
+pastoral labour. Having time to spare, and such an assembly on a
+week-day attracting our attention, from its rarity, we stepped in, and
+remained during the whole of the service, arriving at Zoar a few minutes
+before the boat started.
+
+As we passed through a densely-wooded district between Bolivar and
+Chillicothe, I observed that for many miles the trees were denuded of
+every green leaf, from the devastating effects of millions of locusts,
+which periodically visit the western states of the Union, to the dismay
+of the settlers. The trees in many places were at the time covered with
+these destructive insects. I went on shore and procured several, with
+the intention of preserving them. They were beautiful creatures, about
+ten times the size of an ordinary field grasshopper, and, except that
+their hind legs were longer in proportion to their size, the exact shape
+of that harmless little insect. Their colours are brilliant green,
+slate, and flamingo red, beautifully lined and variegated. The humming
+noise produced by these insects is very disagreeable, and fills the
+surrounding air with murmurs, while the wilderness look of the scene of
+their depredations has a depressing effect on the mind of the
+traveller. Their visits are much dreaded, as they are followed by the
+total destruction of foliage in the district, and in many instances, the
+young saplings die in consequence of their attacks.
+
+After a pleasant passage of four or five days, the packet arrived at the
+river junction; and taking passage at once in a steamer which was
+waiting its arrival in the Ohio river, I was soon rapidly on my way to
+that fairy city of the west, Cincinnati. This is the largest city in the
+state of Ohio, and is the capital of Hamilton county. Fort Washington, a
+defence of some renown during the war, is two miles above, and opposite
+to the mouth of the Licking river. The broad bosom of the Ohio was here
+covered with steam-boats, employed in the Virginia, Missouri, and New
+Orleans trade. The wharves are commodious, and a broad inclined plane,
+from the city to the water's edge, gives the former a fine appearance,
+as it rests majestically in the background.
+
+As I was anxious to proceed to the State of Missouri, with as little
+delay as possible, I at once engaged a passage to St. Louis, and the
+following morning was steaming in the direction of the falls of St.
+Anthony. The passengers in this boat employed themselves nearly the
+whole of the route at games of cards, _faro_ being the favourite. This
+predilection for gambling, which is generally carried to great extremes
+on board southern boats, was not, however, confined to the cabin, for I
+noticed the crew, at every spare interval, sitting about on deck, with
+packs of cards, completely absorbed in the game. The negro hands were
+particularly addicted to this vice, and a gentleman who was proceeding
+in the boat informed me that but a trifle of the earnings of boat-hands
+in general was spared from their devotedness to this ruinous practice.
+The effect of association with, and the example set by, white men given
+to gambling, will account, perhaps, for the habit. This moral pestilence
+is in vain prohibited by the state, and is pursued by all classes in the
+south with frenzied avidity.
+
+After twice running on shore, and meeting with sundry other stoppages
+and minor mishaps, through the mismanagement of the two engineers, we
+reached the city of St. Louis, to the gratification of myself and
+fellow-passengers. This is a place of considerable extent, although
+awkwardly built, and for the most part irregularly laid out. It is a
+considerable fur depôt of the Hudson Bay Company; and there is a
+recruiting station, from whence start expeditions of trappers to the
+Rocky Mountains. I saw a large party of these adventurers, who were
+about to start on an expedition to these remote confines. It consisted
+entirely of young Frenchmen and Hollanders, who are preferred for the
+service by the company. They were of slight make, and little calculated,
+from their appearance, to encounter the hardships of such a life; but I
+was told they soon become hardened, and return strong, athletic men. The
+employment is, however, beset with danger, from the hostile dispositions
+of the various tribes of Indians in the western wilds, who view their
+intrusion with vindictive feelings, and seize every opportunity of
+attacking and annihilating small parties, notwithstanding their
+professions of friendship. Not long after my arrival, a party of
+trappers arrived from the Upper Missouri in two boats, which were loaded
+with buffalo and other furs. The stalwart look of these hardy
+mountaineers proved the hardening effect of their mode of life. They
+were brawny fellows of a ruddy brown complexion, of the true Indian hue,
+and habited in skins. These men, I ascertained, had been in the
+mountains for four or five years, during which time they had subsisted
+entirely on Buffalo and other meat, bread not being used or cared for.
+Their healthy look under such circumstances completely shook my faith in
+the Brahminical vegetarian theory, and goes far, I think, to prove that
+man was intended by his Maker to be a carnivorous animal.
+
+Just before the steamer approached the city, a circumstance occurred on
+board that filled me and my fellow-passengers with horror. We were
+taking breakfast in the cabin, congratulating each other on the near
+termination of our tedious passage, when a sudden shriek, followed by
+shouts from the deck-hands of the vessel, disturbed our meal. Hastening
+in great perturbation to the deck, we soon discovered the cause of the
+disturbance. One of the white waiters was lying on the deck, with a
+frightful gash in his side, from which the blood was fast oozing. Our
+first care was to attend to the sufferer, and a surgeon being
+fortunately amongst the passengers, the hemorrhage was soon abated, but
+the wound was pronounced to be of a fatal character. The poor fellow,
+who was a lad of about eighteen years of age, moaned piteously. Every
+attention that skill and kindness could suggest was paid to him. He was
+immediately carried to a state-room in the cabin, where he remained in
+great agony until the vessel was moored alongside the levee, when he was
+carefully removed on a litter to a hospital on shore. The perpetrator of
+the savage act proved to be a negro, filling the office of assistant
+cook. The passengers were very clamorous, and would, without doubt, have
+hanged the culprit immediately, had it not been for the interference of
+the captain, who, after a curt examination, had him pinioned and taken
+below. From the version given of the affair by the negroes who witnessed
+it (but which was contradicted by two white men who were on the spot), I
+was inclined to think the crime was committed under feelings of great
+provocation, the negro, as is commonly the case on board steam-boats,
+having been for a long time browbeaten by the victim of the sad
+catastrophe, and subjected to very insolent and overbearing treatment at
+his hands. The culprit, who was a very sullen, stolid-looking, full-bred
+negro, refused to answer the questions put to him on the subject, and
+certainly manifested a careless indifference to consequences that was
+not in his favour; his fierce scowl denoting great ferocity, in all
+probability induced by long ill-treatment. As soon as convenience
+allowed, some officers from the shore came on board and secured the
+prisoner, who was conveyed by them to the city gaol, to await the
+investigation of the outrage by the civic authorities and the result of
+the injury committed. The victim of revenge died a few days after the
+occurrence in excruciating agony. It will scarcely be believed that the
+perpetrator of the deed, after a short confinement, was spirited away up
+the country, no doubt at the connivance of the authorities, and sold!
+
+Thus, justice is often defeated, from pecuniary considerations in the
+Slave States of America, where, if a slave commits even the heinous
+crime of murder, the ordinary course of the law is interfered with to
+save the owner from loss. This of itself is sufficient to stamp for ever
+as infamous the social cancer of slavery, and brands as ridiculous, the
+boasted regard for justice, so pragmatically urged in the southern
+states of the American continent.
+
+A mile or two from St. Louis, on the Carondelet road, are situated
+spacious infantry barracks, named after Jefferson, one of the former
+presidents of the Union, where troops are stationed in readiness to act
+against the various tribes of Indians in the Upper Missouri country, who
+sometimes show a disposition to be hostile. A reserve of troops is more
+particularly needful for the protection of the inhabitants; for, either
+from mismanagement or an aggressive spirit, the Government is
+continually embroiled with the aboriginal tribes in harassing and
+expensive warfare. This state of things acts as a perpetual blister, and
+has engendered a rancorous enmity between the Indians and their white
+neighbours, to the great detriment of peaceful agricultural pursuits by
+the latter, and the periodical perplexity of the Chancellor of the
+American Exchequer; whereas, a conciliating policy would not only keep
+the tribes in close friendship, but secure their services as valuable
+allies in case of emergency--a point that may possibly suggest itself
+eventually to the executive, if the rampant spirit of aggrandisement now
+abroad continues to govern the public mind in America.
+
+Soon after landing, I was accosted by a middle-aged gentlemanly man, on
+the subject of the outrage on board the boat, and as he appeared to have
+less of that swaggering air about him than most men in the south
+possess, I entered freely into conversation with him, and in a very
+short time our interchange of sentiments created a mutual partiality,
+that led to his inviting me to pass the following evening at his house,
+a result I rather wished for, as he manifested a disposition to inform
+me fully on several questions I put to him relative to the state I was
+now in and my future movements; moreover, he seemed somewhat attached to
+the English, or rather was not strong in his prejudices against them.
+
+I accordingly repaired to his residence at the time appointed. This was
+situated in one of the lateral streets of the city leading to the
+outskirts, and, although not large, was furnished with great taste and
+elegance. His lady, who was, I think, from Illinois, made herself very
+agreeable, her kind attentions tending to confirm the impression I
+already entertained of her countrywomen; they had no children, and the
+husband was engaged in some way with the Fur Company established in St.
+Louis. I was entertained with great hospitality; my kind host materially
+assisting me by information, &c. in my intention to pursue my route
+south.
+
+He was the son of a New Englander, or native of one of the eastern
+states; his father having fought at Bunker's Hill, and otherwise taken
+an active part in the struggle for independence, between the years 1776
+and 1785. This made it the more extraordinary that he should treat an
+Englishman with the courtesy he showed to me, especially as under such
+circumstances a bias is in general handed down from father to son, which
+operates prejudicially to my countrymen.
+
+After putting a variety of questions, as to the "old country" as he
+termed Great Britain, on which I readily satisfied his curiosity, he
+entered into a detail of some of the stirring events relating to the
+period of his father's career in arms against the British; some of these
+were of a thrilling character, and strongly depicted the miseries of
+war, presenting a lamentable picture of the debasing influence of
+sanguinary struggles on the human mind. The barbarous mode of harassing
+the British troops, by picking off stragglers, which the lower orders of
+Americans pursued, in most instances for the sake of the wretched
+clothing and accoutrements of the victims, the former being dyed of a
+dark colour, and sold for a dollar per set (as he called the military
+suit), to the American citizen-soldiers, fairly made my blood creep; one
+instance in particular filled me with horror, for it was a cold-blooded
+murder of the deepest dye I must, however, do the narrator the justice
+to say that he viewed the atrocity in the same light as I did.
+
+The occurrence I am about to relate, took place somewhere on the banks
+of the Hudson, below West Point, where a force of British troops were
+encamped or pursuing their operations under the protection of some
+vessels of war lying in the stream, he mentioned the exact spot where it
+occurred, but I have forgotten it. It appeared that this force was
+harassed and beset by parties of citizens, who, by pursuing a guerilla
+system of warfare, surprising small parties, and firing entirely in
+ambush, made great havoc amongst the rank and file of the invaders,
+almost every straggler falling a victim. One evening, during this state
+of things, two of the citizens, whilst prowling in a coppice, within a
+few miles of the camp, on the look-out, came suddenly upon an infantry
+soldier, who was off his guard at the moment, and whose firelock was
+resting against a tree; the foremost of the Americans darted forward and
+seized the weapon, while the second captured the wretched soldier. Under
+ordinary circumstances, and in more honourable hands, the man would
+have been conveyed as a prisoner of war to the American camp, but
+plunder being their object, this would not answer the purpose of the
+miscreants, the most resolute of whom ordered the captive (who was a lad
+of seventeen or eighteen), to take off his jacket. Knowing this was a
+preliminary step to his being shot, he fell on his knees and implored
+mercy. His captors were, however, inexorable, and he began to cry
+bitterly, and besought them to spare his life; these manifestations had,
+however, no effect on his deadly foes, who now threatened to fell him
+with the butt end of a fusee if he did not comply: this had the effect,
+and the poor captive reluctantly pulled off the jacket and threw it on
+the ground; this was immediately picked up by one of the party, to avoid
+its being stained with the life-blood of the victim. Withdrawing now a
+few paces, one of the Americans took a deliberate aim; the young soldier
+instantly turned to run, but as he wheeled round for the purpose (for
+his enemies were facing him), a ball entered his left side, just under
+the armpit, and springing frantically several feet into the air, he fell
+dead to the ground. He was then stripped, and left on the spot.
+
+This horrid relation I should have thought, for the credit of his
+country, an American would have kept secret; but as I before observed,
+he was by no means disposed to take the part of these so-called
+patriots, although he stated that many atrocities were committed by the
+British, some of which he related, and which were, he said, never
+recorded; these, I fear, if exposed, would not much redound to their
+credit with the present generation.
+
+At first I could not understand why the soldier was ordered before being
+shot to pull his jacket off; this he explained by saying, that a rent in
+the garment made by the ball of a fusee, would have lessened its value;
+and further, that the American soldiers were averse, from superstitious
+fear at the time, to wearing any article of dress in which an enemy had
+yielded his breath; notwithstanding which repugnance, the American
+soldiers not long after dismissed the objection, from the extreme
+scantiness of the clothing afforded them.
+
+On my intimating the abhorrence I felt at the relation, my entertainer
+informed me that it was impossible at the time to prevent such
+occurrences, the annihilation of the invaders was the _primum mobile_ of
+all Americans, and many citizens harassed the enemy on their own
+account, the principle being the same on which European vessels bearing
+letters of marque, are suffered to waylay and seize, for the purpose of
+private gain, the merchant vessels belonging to the country with which
+they are at war. Such atrocities, as he remarked, however horrifying in
+times of peace, are of every-day occurrence between contending armies.
+
+Amongst those I had occasion to call on at St. Louis, was a Major ----.
+He had formerly been engaged in Indian warfare, and, having received a
+wound from a rifle-ball, that incapacitated him for active military
+duty, he was living as a retired citizen--his wife's jointure, and an
+allowance from Government, allowing him to keep up a tolerably good
+establishment. He was the owner of several slaves, and, amongst the
+rest, a young woman who was employed as nursemaid in the family. The
+first time I called at his residence, I thought him a man of superior
+manners and education, and was much pleased with the visit, which was
+concluded with a promise to renew it on a future day. When, however, I
+repeated my visit soon after, I found him alone in his study, and his
+constrained manner soon led me to perceive that something unusual
+perturbed his mind. The cause was soon after explained, for, the
+negress, before mentioned, coming into the room on some trifling errand,
+to my surprise accosted him rather freely. Her master suddenly broke out
+in a paroxysm of rage, swore at her awfully, and accused her in a
+ruffianly way of being insolent to her mistress. Then, violently ringing
+a bell which stood on the table, he summoned a negro lad into the room,
+and at once despatched him to a neighbour's house to borrow a new
+raw-hide whip, threatening all the while to flay her alive. In vain the
+terrified creature pleaded innocence; he would take no excuse, and,
+although I begged earnestly for him to pass over the offence, and the
+poor slave fell on her knees in the greatest terror, he vowed vengeance
+with dreadful imprecations. At last the whip came, and, disregarding
+alike the presence of a stranger, and the entreaties of a woman, he
+began the flagellation with murderous earnest. My interference only
+added to his ungovernable rage. The raw-hide was new, and the major
+being a strong, muscular man, every stroke told. The blood soon flowed
+from the back, neck, and breasts, of the poor victim, whose cries, as
+she writhed under the savage infliction, entered my soul. They, however,
+made no impression on her brutal tormentor, who kept vociferating with
+all his energy to keep her quiet. It was with some difficulty I stood by
+and witnessed the assault, but I well know my life would be in jeopardy
+if I attempted to interfere. I, however, screwed up my courage to stay,
+in the hope that some sense of shame might induce the fellow to hold his
+hand. This was, however, a delusive hope, for he continued to lay on
+the whip until he was exhausted.
+
+The girl was now on the floor of the room, moaning piteously, and a
+stream of blood was flowing from her lacerated person, which soaked the
+matting that covered the floor. Her dress was hanging in tatters, and
+the blood trickling down her cheeks had a horrifying effect. As soon as
+the ruffian was tired, he bid the woman get down stairs and wash
+herself. The miserable creature arose with difficulty, and picking up
+her apron and turban, which were in different parts of the room, she
+hobbled out crying bitterly. As soon as she was gone, the major pointed
+to the blood, and said, "If we did not see that sometimes, there would
+be no living with the brutes;" to which I replied in terms he could not
+misunderstand, and at once left the house, determined never again to
+enter it--a resolution I religiously kept. I afterwards heard that this
+miserable creature was pregnant at the time, a circumstance that would
+have induced at least some regard to leniency in any man not utterly
+debased.
+
+Those who are acquainted with southern scenes will see nothing
+extraordinary in this recital, for they are every-day occurrences, and
+scarcely elicit a remark, unless the perpetrator should happen to be a
+slave-holding Wesleyan or Whitfieldite, when, perhaps, he would be
+called to some account--his own version of the affair being of course
+admitted _in limine_. Many of the slave-holders are an incorrigibly
+degraded set of men. It is by no means uncommon for them to inflict
+chastisement on negresses with whom they are in habitual illicit
+intercourse, and I was credibly informed that this cruelty was often
+resorted to, to disabuse the mind of a deceived and injured wife who
+suspects unfair treatment. This attested fact, disgraceful as it is, can
+scarcely be wondered at in men who mercilessly subject defenceless women
+to the lash without a spark of human feeling, or compunction of
+conscience. It is little to the credit of United States senators that
+they have not at least made laws to protect women from the barbarous
+usage of flogging. One would imagine that men, who, perhaps, above all
+others in the world, pay homage to the sex, would have established a
+distinction in this respect; but I apprehend the truth to be, that they
+are so far influenced by their wives, who are notoriously jealous of
+their sable rivals, that they have succumbed to their sentiments and
+dictation.
+
+There are many Dutch in St. Louis, and along the levee you perceive
+boarding-houses and groceries kept for their accommodation. These men
+are generally great drinkers, and think as little of quaffing at a few
+draughts half-a-pint of whiskey, as an Englishman would the same
+quantity of malt liquor. They consume, also, vast quantities of claret.
+I have frequently seen a couple of these men at a café, drink five or
+bottles without betraying any ill effects. It must, however, be
+remembered that claret is not so potent as the heavier wines.
+
+A few days after my arrival, while standing in the vestibule of my
+hotel, my attention was drawn to a loud altercation going on at the bar,
+and as it was evident, from the manner of the parties, that some public
+question was being discussed, I listened, and ascertained that an
+obnoxious citizen had been seized for perpetrating a petty act of
+revenge on a neighbour by damaging his horse, and was that day to be
+publicly tarred, feathered, and escorted out of the city, as they said,
+bag and baggage. Having ascertained the spot selected for the scene, I
+determined to witness it. Accordingly, at noon, the appointed hour, I
+repaired to an open spot of building-land on the Carondelet side of the
+city. Here I found assembled a motley assemblage of citizens, negroes,
+steamboat-hands, and the general riff-raff of the place. Although the
+crowd was not so great, the meeting strongly reminded me of those scenes
+of infamy and disgrace in England--public executions; the conduct of the
+assembled throng on this occasion being the more decorous of the two.
+Precisely at twelve, the mob made a rush towards one corner of the open
+space, from which direction I saw the culprit advancing, in charge of
+thirty or forty well-dressed people (the committee appointed for the
+occasion being among the number). He was a stout man, and described to
+me as a great bully; but now he looked completely crest-fallen. As the
+party came on, he was hissed by the mob, who, however, kept at a good
+distance from his guard. A man, with a large tin can of smoking pitch, a
+brush of the kind used in applying the same, and a pillow of feathers
+under his arm, followed immediately behind the prisoner, vociferating
+loudly. Arrived at the spot, the poor wretch was placed on a stool, and
+a citizen, who had taken a very prominent part in front of the
+procession, and who, I was told, was the chief cause of this outrage,
+stepped in front of him, and pulling out a sheet of paper, read a
+lecture on the enormity of his crime, which wound up with the sentence
+about to be enforced. When this was finished, the man who carried the
+tar-vessel stepped up, and began, with a scissors, to cut off the
+culprit's hair, which he did most effectually, flinging portions amongst
+the crowd, who scrambled after them. As soon as this was finished, and
+the man was stripped to the waist, the brush was dipped into the pitch,
+and the upper part of his person lathered therewith. Not a word escaped
+him, but the individual who had taken so prominent a part in the
+punishment, kept giving directions to the operator to put it on thick.
+Even his eyes and ears were not spared. As soon as this part of the
+operation was complete, the bag of feathers was ripped open by a
+by-stander, and the contents stuck thickly on the parts besmeared with
+tar, amidst the deafening cheers of the spectators, who were by this
+time in such frantic excitement that I began to fear a tragedy would
+ensue, especially as many of them shouted, "Now hang the varmint! hang
+him!" This proposal was eagerly seconded by the mob. This was, however,
+resolutely overruled by his keepers. The appearance presented by the
+victim, in this peculiarly American dress, was ludicrous in the extreme,
+and _looked_ very comfortable. As soon as this part of the exhibition
+was finished, a man, with a small drum, followed by the mob, with yells
+and execrations drove the culprit before them at a run. The poor wretch
+ran like a deer from his pursuers, who followed at his heels, shouting
+frantically, until he reached the brink of the river, where a boat was
+waiting to take him off. He dashed into it, and was at once rowed into
+the middle of the stream, out of reach of his tormentors, who, I quite
+believe, would have administered more severe lynch-law if they could
+have got hold of him, for their passions were wrought up to the highest
+pitch of excitement. One feature in the scene I could not help
+remarking--the negroes all appeared in high glee, and many of them
+actually danced with joy. I did not wonder at this, for the negroes
+always seemed to exult if a white man was in disgrace; which, after all,
+is no more than might be expected from a class of men tyrannized over as
+the coloured people are there, and is one of the results of the
+oppressive system that exacts everything that human labour can furnish,
+without remuneration, and without (in by far the greater number of
+instances) any approach to sympathy or grateful feeling. This alone,
+without taking into consideration the outrages inflicted on the race by
+their cruel oppressors, supplies a sufficient cause for such a tendency,
+if every other were wanting.
+
+Passing through the principal street the day before I left St Louis, an
+assembly of men, chiefly overseers and negro dealers, who stood at the
+entrance of a large store, attracted my attention. Large placards, with
+a description of various lots of negroes to be submitted to public
+competition, soon told me I should now be able to gratify my curiosity
+by witnessing a Missouri slave-vendue. A man with a bell, which he rang
+most energetically at the door, shortly after summoned the company, the
+auction being about to commence. On a table inside, a negress, of a
+little over middle age, was standing, vacantly gazing with grief-worn
+countenance on the crowd that now thronged to the table. On the floor
+stood two children, of about the ages of ten and thirteen respectively.
+The auctioneer, with the customary volubility of such men in America,
+began by stating, that the lots now to be offered were the remnants of a
+preceding sale, which he gratuitously observed had been a most
+satisfactory one, and after dilating with some energy on the good
+qualities of the woman before us, whose face brightened up a little on
+hearing such a flattering account of her good qualities, he earnestly
+requested a bidding. The poor creature was evidently in ill-health.
+After the most revolting questions had been put to her, and her person
+examined by the competitors with disgraceful familiarity, she was
+pronounced all but worthless, "used up," as one of the company observed,
+and was, after much demur on the part of the auctioneer, knocked down
+for two hundred dollars; this sum being, as he remarked, but the moiety
+of what she ought to have realized. She was then roughly told to get off
+the table, and take her stand near it, at a place pointed out by her
+purchaser, who was a rollicking-looking, big-whiskered fellow, with an
+immense Leghorn hat, the brim of which was lined with black, and having
+a broad black ribbon round the crown. As the poor woman got down, she
+cast a furtive glance at her children, who, although the auctioneer
+certainly tried to prevent it, were sold to two individuals, neither of
+whom was the purchaser of the parent. The poor woman looked about in
+great despair while the bidding was going on. It was in vain I sought
+one sympathizing look in that company; but how could it be expected,
+when it consisted of men long inured to such heartless scenes--men whose
+hearts were case-hardened by the impious traffic they were now engaged
+in. I was, however, pleased to hear afterwards that the purchasers all
+resided in St. Louis, and that the woman would often see her
+children--poor amends it is true for a cruel separation, but more
+satisfactory than such cases generally are.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+  "Where Will-o'-the-wisps and glow-worms shine,
+    In bulrush and in brake;
+  Where waving mosses shroud the pine,
+  And the cedar grows, and the poisonous vine
+    Is spotted like the snake."--LONGFELLOW.
+
+
+From St. Louis, on the Missouri river, I took passage to New Orleans, in
+one of those magnificent steamers that crowd the inland waters of the
+American continent, and which, sumptuously furnished as they are, have
+not inaptly been termed "floating palaces." We had a prosperous passage
+as far as the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi, where the boat
+struck the branches of a large tree, that had been washed into the bed
+of the stream, and was there stuck fast, root downwards. This formidable
+chevaux-de-frise (or snag, as it was termed by the captain) fortunately
+did not do much damage to the vessel, although at first an alarm was
+raised that she was sinking, and much confusion ensued. This
+apprehension was, however, soon dissipated by the report of the
+carpenter, whose account of the damage was so far favourable, that after
+extrication by backing the vessel, and a few temporary repairs, she was
+again got under headway.
+
+The pellucid waters of the Ohio, as they enter the turbid rushing
+current of the Mississippi, which is swollen by the Illinois and other
+tributaries, has a remarkable effect, the clear current of the former
+river refusing, for a considerable distance, to mingle with the murky
+stream of the latter, and forming a visible blue channel in its
+centre--a phenomenon I thought allegorical of the slave-stained
+condition of the one state, and the free soil of the other, for while
+Ohio is free from the curse of slavery, the banks of the Mississippi
+have for centuries been deep dyed in the life's blood of the oppressed
+African.
+
+Our vessel was borne on the rushing waters with great impetuosity, the
+maddening current of the Mississippi seeming to carry everything before
+it. As we proceeded we constantly saw trees topple over into the river,
+the banks of which are continually widening, and which in many parts has
+the appearance of a lake after a storm, impregnated with debris. The
+trees, thus washed into the bed of the river, sink root downwards and
+make the navigation perilous, as I have before described. We met
+numerous steamers coming up the stream, one of them having a freight of
+Indians from Florida, removing to the western frontier, under the
+surveillance of U.S. soldiery and government agents. The compulsory
+removal of Indians, from one remote state to another, whenever new
+territory is needed, forms a disgraceful feature in internal American
+policy. Transported to new hunting grounds, the poor Indians are brought
+into contact with other tribes, when feuds arise from feelings of
+jealousy, and the new-comers are often annihilated in a few years. Many
+tribes have thus become totally extinct, and the remainder are rapidly
+becoming so. As the steamer passed us with her freight of red men they
+set up a loud yell, which reverberated through the forests on the
+river-shores. It sounded to me very much like defiance, and probably
+was, for they execrate the white men as hereditary enemies, and feel
+deeply the wrongs inflicted on their people.
+
+All the steamers we met were more or less crowded with passengers, the
+visages of many of whom bore traces of fever and ague, and who were,
+doubtless, removing to a healthier climate. This insidious disease often
+terminates fatally in the cities and districts skirting the swamps of
+Louisiana, and, to avoid its baneful effects, the more affluent people
+migrate south-west or north when the sickly season sets in. The yellow
+fever is also very fatal in such situations, and annually claims numbers
+of victims.
+
+We had by this time reached that latitude where perpetual summer reigns.
+The banks of the mighty Mississippi, which has for ages rolled on in
+increasing grandeur, present to the eye a wilderness of sombre scenery,
+indescribably wild and romantic. The bays, formed by the current, are
+choked with palmetto and other trees, and teem with alligators,
+water-snakes, and freshwater turtle, the former basking in the sun in
+conscious security. Overhead, pelicans, paroquets, and numberless other
+
+  "Strange bright birds on their starry wings,
+  Bear the rich hues of all glorious things;"
+
+while the gorgeous magnolia, in luxuriant bloom, and a thousand other
+evergreens, on shore, vie with voluptuous aquatic flowers to bewilder
+and delight the astonished traveller, accustomed hitherto only to the
+more unassuming productions of the sober north. Everything here was new,
+strange, and solemn. The gigantic trees, encircled by enormous vines,
+and heavily shrouded in grey funereal moss, mournfully waving in the
+breeze--the doleful night-cry of the death-bird and the
+whip-poor-will--the distant bugle of the advancing boats--the moan of
+the turbid current beneath--the silent and queenly moon above, appearing
+nearer, larger, and brighter than in our cooler latitudes--the sultry
+atmosphere--and most of all, perhaps, the sense of the near vicinity of
+death in this infected region--oppressed my spirit with an ominous
+feeling of solemnity and awe.
+
+As we passed the plantations which here and there varied the scene,
+gangs of negroes could be seen at labour--their sturdy overseers, of
+ruffianly mien, prowling sulkily about, watching every motion of the
+bondsmen, whip in hand; which weapon they applied with the most wanton
+freedom, as if the poor sufferers were as destitute of physical
+sensation, as they themselves were of moral or humane feeling. Armed
+with a huge bowie-knife and pistols, these embruted creatures were very
+cut-throats in appearance; and it is well known there, that their
+conduct in general towards those they lord over, justifies the
+appellation I have given them.
+
+The steamer halted at intervals to take in wood, which is invariably
+used, instead of coal as in England. This is piled in parrallelograms on
+the banks--the logs being split longitudinally. This forms a source of
+good profit, and is, in many instances, the chief maintenance of the
+squalid settlers of these plague-stricken and unwholesome places. After
+the measurement of the pile by the mate or captain, the deck-passengers
+and boat-hands stow it away in the vicinity of the furnaces--it being
+part of the terms of passage, that the lower order of passengers shall
+assist in the operation. This is much disliked by the latter, and many
+of the Germans of this class on board, endeavoured to escape the
+laborious duty by hiding amongst the packages on deck. A general search
+was, however, instituted by the officers of the vessel, just before it
+stopped at a wooding-station--and the skulkers were brought out, amidst
+the clamorous jeers of their fellows. The class of passengers I have
+just referred to, consisted chiefly of Germans and Irish, who, although
+there is no professed distinction, bargain for a deck-passage, the
+charge being better suited to their means. Amongst the objects that
+arrested my attention, as our vessel floated majestically down the
+turbid current, were gibbets standing on the banks, depending from
+several of which were short chains, doubtless required occasionally in
+carrying out this kind of discipline. As the horrifying objects occurred
+at intervals of a few miles, I at first imagined they were cranes used
+to lower bales of cotton into the holds of vessels, and addressing a
+passenger whose physiognomy prepossessed me in his favour, and who had
+several times shown a disposition to impart the knowledge he possessed
+concerning the objects around, he soon convinced me of my mistake,
+adding, that such engines were as necessary to the proper discipline of
+the negroes in that latitude as the overseer himself. He then proceeded
+to detail several instances of fugitive negroes being dragged in capture
+to the foot of the gallows, where, with halter-encircled necks, they
+were made not only to acknowledge the error committed and expose
+accessories, but "pumped dry," as he facetiously termed it, as to the
+intended flight of other negroes on the estate. Sometimes, he said, it
+was necessary to suspend the culprit for a moment or so, to intimidate,
+but this was only in cases where the victim (he used the word rascal)
+was inclined to be sullen, and refused readily to give the required
+information. I inquired whether it ever occurred that actual execution
+took place; to this my new acquaintance replied, "Wall, yes, where the
+nigger had dar'd to strike a white man;" but that it was usual to go to
+a magistrate first, in such cases. The appearance of these gibbets,
+after the information I had received respecting them from my
+slave-holding acquaintance, made my flesh creep as we steamed onwards,
+the more so as, in many of the grounds skirting the river, where these
+sombre murky-looking objects presented themselves to the gaze of the
+traveller, gangs of negroes were at work, looking up complacently for a
+moment as the vessel glided by. I was subsequently told by a gentleman
+who had been long resident in the state of Louisiana, that no punishment
+so effectually strikes with terror the negro mind, as that of hanging,
+the very threat being sufficient to subdue (in general) the most
+hardened offenders. This I do not wonder at, for perhaps there are few
+field-hands living in the south but have, at some time or other,
+witnessed the barbarities used at a negro execution, sudden death by
+pistol or bowie knife being far preferable to the brutal sneers and
+indignities heaped upon the victim by the cowardly assassins who
+superintend such operations.
+
+The monotony of the scenes which had for a thousand miles rendered the
+passage irksome, began to break as we approached Natchez. This place
+takes its name from the Natch-i-toches, or Red River, which falls into
+the Mississippi, the abbreviation being a corruption of the original
+Indian name, which is as above stated. The town stands on a declivity or
+bluff, and is of considerable extent. I did not visit it, although the
+boat halted for a considerable time, to land letter-bags and passengers.
+I was informed by a fellow-passenger of gentlemanly bearing, who
+resided in the vicinity, that it was a dissipated place, and gambling
+the chief occupation of its inhabitants. The locality has been
+remarkable for landslips, owing to the siliceous nature of the soil; I
+saw traces of a fearful catastrophe of the kind which had, some time
+before, buried or destroyed many of the houses and their occupants, the
+enormous mass having also sunk several steam-boats and other vessels
+which were moored at the foot of the bluff under the town.
+
+After leaving Natchez, we steamed away with renewed vigour towards that
+centre of slavery and dissipation, New Orleans, and were in due course
+moored to the levee, which extends the whole river-length of the city,
+and is about a mile in extent. The first news I heard, and which alarmed
+me not a little, was that the yellow fever was at this time raging in
+the city. New Orleans is just fifty-four miles from the mouth of the
+Mississippi, and being built at the time of the Orleans Regency,
+contains many ancient structures. Its inhabitants, even to this day, are
+to a great extent either French or of Gaelic origin. It lies exceedingly
+flat, which causes the locality to be unhealthy and ill-suited to
+European constitutions; the soil is, however, fertile and rich; this is,
+perhaps, to be accounted for by the constant irrigation it undergoes
+from the overflowing of the Mississippi, which, like another Nile,
+periodically submerges the country around its banks. The town is
+situated on the east side of the river.
+
+The vast quantity of shipping of all classes in the harbour is a very
+striking feature in this extensive and wealthy city. The bad eminence to
+which New Orleans has attained is painful to contemplate. Its wealth is
+purchased by the blood and tears of thousands of slaves, who are daily
+exposed like cattle in its markets; and this fact operates on the mind
+of an Englishman to the prejudice of its inhabitants. I was myself
+filled with disgust towards the whites, as well as pity towards the
+blacks, on beholding, immediately on our arrival, a gang of forty or
+fifty negroes, of both sexes, and nearly all ages, working in shackles
+on the wharf. These, I was informed, were principally captured
+fugitives; they looked haggard and care-worn, and as they toiled with
+their barrows with uncovered heads, under a burning sun, they were
+mercilessly lashed with a heavy slave-whip, by a tall, athletic negro,
+who acted as overseer, and who, with refined cruelty, dispensed the
+punishment alike on stout men, slender youths, and thin attenuated
+females. Our arrival having attracted the notice of the gang, and
+induced a momentary halt in their work, the unfeeling wretch commenced
+a furious onslaught with the whip, each crack of which, followed, as it
+was, by the groans or cries of the sufferer, roused the indignant
+feelings of the passengers, many of whom were from the free states, and
+who simultaneously raised a yell of execration which made the welkin
+resound, and caused the cruel driver to stand aghast. This demonstration
+drew a remonstrance from the captain, who represented to the passengers
+the danger of such conduct, and concluded by observing that if it was
+repeated, it would probably arouse the indignation of the citizens, who
+were very bigoted. He should be sorry, he added, to be obliged to put
+the vessel about again, a proceeding that might be necessary for the
+safety of all on board, unless they were more cautious. Some of the
+passengers seemed disposed to dispute this argument, but they were
+overruled by the majority, who, better acquainted with southern usages,
+prejudices, and barbarities, thought that discretion under the
+circumstances would be the better part of valour. I afterwards found
+that the captain's view was a strictly correct one, for so jealous are
+the citizens of men entertaining hostility to the pro-slavery cause,
+that spies are often sent on board newly-arrived boats, to ascertain if
+missionaries are amongst the passengers. These spies, with Jesuitical
+art, introduce themselves by making apparently casual inquiries on
+leading topics of those they suspect, and if their end is subserved,
+basely betray them, or, what is more usual, keep them under strict
+surveillance, with a view to their being detected in disseminating
+abolition doctrines amongst the slaves, when they are immediately made
+amenable to the laws, and are fined or imprisoned.
+
+On landing, I hired a sorry conveyance, driven by a creole and drawn by
+a mule, and had my luggage taken to a house in the suburbs, where I had
+been recommended to take up my residence during my stay, which, owing to
+the presence of the yellow fever, that daily carried off numbers of
+victims, I had determined, contrary to my original intention, should be
+short.
+
+The crowds of people on the levee, attracted by the constant arrival of
+steam-boats, had a motley appearance; many of these were rough-looking
+fellows, fit for any occupation, most of them being armed with bowie
+knives, the silver hilts of which could often be seen peering
+suspiciously from under the waistcoat, in the inner lining of which a
+case or scabbard of leather is sewn for the reception of the weapon. The
+vast proportion of blacks in the streets soon struck me. I should think
+they were five to one of the white population. These, for the most part,
+wore in wretched plight; many of them begged of the passers-by, which
+practice I found afterwards to be very general, especially in the
+suburbs of the city.
+
+Amongst the passengers on our boat, was a person, apparently of the
+better class, who was met at the levee by two black servants with a
+carriage. I noticed particularly, that, although the negroes touched
+their hats, and inquired how he was (by which I concluded he had been
+absent for some time), he did not deign to answer their inquiries. From
+their timidity, it was evident that he was an overbearing man, and the
+imperial haughtiness manifested in giving them his orders, confirmed
+this impression. This individual was one of those who condemned the
+demonstration I have noticed, when the boat first approached the levee.
+
+After a day's rest at my boarding-house, I walked through the city, and
+afterwards visited the calaboose, which in New Orleans is a mart for
+produce, as well as a place of detention and punishment for slaves. Here
+those owners who are averse to correcting their slaves in a rigorous
+manner at home, send them to be flogged. The brutal way in which this is
+done at the calaboose, strikes terror into the negro mind, and the
+threat is often sufficient to tame the most incorrigible. Instances, I
+was told, have often occurred of negroes expiring under the severity of
+the discipline here; but it was remarked that the pecuniary loss
+attendant on such casualties made the keepers careful not to exceed the
+physical endurance of the sufferer, and that they were so well
+acquainted with negro constitutions that it was a rare exception for
+death to ensue. The punishment, however, almost always resulted in the
+victim being invalided and unfitted for exertion for a considerable
+time.
+
+I believe New Orleans to be as vile a place as any under the sun; a
+perfect Ghetto or cursed place; in fact, it is the rendezvous of
+renegades of all nations, and hordes of negro traders and planters are
+to be seen flocking round the hotels. These are extensive patrons of the
+gambling-houses; and the faro, _rouge-et-noir,_ roulette, and other
+establishments, fitted up with gorgeous saloons, are generally crowded
+with them. As you pass, you may observe the frequenters of such places
+in dozens, deeply engaged in play, while the teller of the establishment
+sits at a table with a huge heap of Spanish doubloons or Mexican mill
+dollars before him, which he adds to or takes from with the tact of a
+banker's clerk, as the chances of luck may arise. Violence and Woodshed
+have been indigenous to this city from time immemorial, and feuds are
+instantly settled by an appeal to the bowie knife, or ever-ready
+revolver. Highway robberies are very frequent, and I was told it was
+more than your life was worth to be out after dark, in certain
+localities, unless armed and on your guard. The police authorities are,
+nevertheless, vigilant, and the magistrates severe, so that many
+desperadoes are brought to justice.
+
+The suburbs of New Orleans lie low, and the swampy soil emits a
+poisonous miasma. This is, without doubt, the cause of virulent
+epidemics that visit the city annually with direful effect. Thousands
+fly to the northern states, to escape the contagion; but there are many
+who, for want of means, are obliged to risk a continued residence at
+such periods, and it is amongst those that the yellow fever, the ague,
+or the flux, plays dreadful havoc. It is the custom for the small
+store-keepers, as well as the more affluent merchants, to confide their
+affairs at such seasons to others, and I have frequently seen
+advertisements in the _New Orleans Picayune_, and other papers, offering
+a gratuity to persons to undertake the charge in their absence.
+
+The heat, although the summer was not far advanced, was excessive, and
+the thousands of mosquitoes that filled the air, especially after a fall
+of rain, when they seemed to burst into life in myriads spontaneously,
+kept up an increasing annoyance. At night this was ten-fold, for
+notwithstanding the gauze awnings, or bars, as they are called, which
+completely enveloped the bedstead, to the floor of the room, they found
+admittance with pertinacious audacity, and kept up a buzzing and humming
+about my ears that almost entirely deprived me of rest. This unceasing
+nuisance in the hot season, makes it difficult to keep one's equanimity
+of temper, and has, probably, much to do with that extreme irascibility
+shown by the southern inhabitants of the American continent.
+
+The appearance and situation of hundreds of quadroon females in this
+city, soon attracted my attention, and deserve notice. I saw numbers of
+them not only at the bazaars or shops making purchases, but riding in
+splendid carriages through the streets. So prodigal are these poor
+deluded creatures of their money, that, although slaves and liable to
+immediate sale at the caprice of their keepers, they have often been
+known to spend in one afternoon 200 dollars in a shopping excursion.
+Endowed with natural talents, they are readily instructed in every
+accomplishment, requisite to constitute them charming companions. Often
+as a carriage dashes by, the pedestrian is able to catch a glimpse of
+some jewelled and turbaned sultana, of dazzling beauty, attended by her
+maid, who does not always possess a sinecure, for the mistress is often
+haughty, proud, and petulant, very hard to please, and exacts great
+deference from her inferiors. Many of them live in regal splendour, and
+everything that wealth and pampered luxury can bestow is theirs, as long
+as their personal charms remain; but when their beauty has ceased to
+gratify the passions of their masters, they are, in most instances, cast
+off, and frequently die in a condition which presents the greatest
+possible contrast to their former gay but not happy life.
+
+  "Oh that they had earlier died,
+  Sleeping calmly side by side,
+  Where the tyrant's power is o'er,
+  And the fetter galls no more."
+
+Many of such poor outcasts are to be found scattered all over the slave
+states, some employed as field hands, but in general they are selected
+as domestics, their former habits of luxury and ease rendering their
+constitutions too delicate for the exposure of ordinary field labour. It
+is not, however, as the reader will have observed, commiseration that
+saves them from that degradation. As soon as beauty begins to fade,
+which in southern climes it does prematurely, the unfeeling owners of
+these unfortunates succeed in ridding themselves of what is now
+considered a burden, by disposing of the individual to some heartless
+trader. This is done unknown to the victim, and the news, when it
+reaches her, drives her almost frantic; she at once seeks her
+perfidious paramour, and finds to her dismay, that he has been gone
+some days on a tour to the provinces, and is, perhaps, a thousand miles
+off. Tears and protestations avail her nothing, the trader is
+inexorable, she belongs to him by law, and go she must; at length,
+having vainly expended her entreaties, she becomes calm, and submits in
+sullen apathy to her wretched fate. This is the ordinary history of such
+cases.
+
+Considering it unsafe to remain longer in this infected city, from the
+reports that the fever was gaining ground, I now made preparations for
+leaving New Orleans, and as I had made an engagement to manage the
+affairs of a gentleman in Florida, during his absence at Washington, I
+determined to proceed thither with the least possible delay. In
+furtherance of this object I made inquiries for a conveyance by water to
+St. Marks, giving the preference to steam. In this object I was,
+however, disappointed, and was obliged to take a passage on board a
+brig, about to sail for that obscure port. The vessel was towed down to
+the balize or mouth of the Mississippi, in company with two others, by a
+departing steamer, which had on board the mail for Bermuda and St.
+George's Island. Arrived at the balize, whose banks for several miles
+are overflowed by the sea, I saw a small fleet of vessels, some outward
+and some inward bound. Amongst these was a United States ship of war,
+of great beauty, carrying heavy guns. A boat from this vessel, in charge
+of an officer, boarded us, and delivered to the captain a sealed packet,
+which I understood to be a dispatch, addressed to General Taylor, the
+officer in command of the troops operating against the Indians in
+Florida.
+
+The coast about the balize is low and swampy, and everywhere abounds in
+rush and cane brakes which give its sea-beach a desolate appearance.
+These morasses harbour thousands of alligators, whose roar had a
+singular effect as it rose above the breeze. Flocks of aquatic birds
+were to be seen on every side, the most numerous being the pelican, and
+a bird of the cotinga species, about the size of an English throstle,
+the plumage of which, being jet black and flamingo red, had a beautiful
+effect in the sunshine, as they flew or settled in thousands on the
+canes.
+
+Our passage across the Gulf of Mexico was a favourable one, but when
+within forty miles of our destination, the vessel struck on a hidden
+sand-bank. The fog was so dense, that the captain had been mistaken in
+his reckoning, and had taken a wrong course. For a considerable time we
+were in great jeopardy, and every attempt to get the ship again afloat
+was unavailing; and, had not the weather been moderate, there is little
+doubt but that she would have been lost, and our lives placed in great
+peril. After some hours' exertion, during which an anchor was lost, and
+a quantity of iron thrown overboard, we had the satisfaction to find
+that the vessel was adrift. This was a great relief to us, for had a
+gale sprung up in the night, which was closing in, we must have taken to
+the boat, and abandoned the vessel, a perilous undertaking, from which
+we all felt too happy to have escaped. I was told by the captain that
+the coast here abounds with hidden sand-banks of the description we had
+encountered. This, perhaps, together with the poor harbour accommodation
+in Florida, accounts for the small size of the vessels which generally
+trade there.
+
+The desolate look of the coast from the deck of the vessel, did not
+convey to my mind a very favourable impression of the country, and the
+hostile disposition of the Indians tended not a little to excite
+forebodings of evil, that at one time almost induced me to abandon my
+intention, and return to the north. These apprehensions were, however,
+allayed by the representations of the captain of the vessel, who stated
+that the Indians seldom attempted to molest armed parties, and that an
+understanding with the government was daily expected, through the recent
+capture of some important sachems or chiefs, under whose influence and
+leadership hostilities had been carried on. This information reassured
+me, and I determined to proceed, although I found afterwards that it was
+almost entirely a misrepresentation, which, however, I cannot believe
+was wilful, as the captain would have had me for a passenger on the
+return voyage.
+
+I soon after landed in a boat from the shore. The bay or harbour of St.
+Marks is not attractive, neither is the town, which presents a desolate
+appearance. The houses or stores are chiefly of wood, painted white, the
+venetian blinds of the houses being green, as in most parts of the
+United States. The hotel-entrances were crowded with loungers, in
+snow-white clothing, large Leghorn or palmetto hats, and fancy-coloured
+shirts, who smoked cigars incessantly, and generally discussed with
+energy the inroads of the Indians, or other leading topics of the day.
+The houses are low and irregularly built, and the appearance of the
+whole place and its inhabitants, as far as I could see, wore a
+forbidding aspect, and was indicative of anything but prosperity.
+
+My next stage was to Tallahassee by railroad, through a desolate-looking
+country, whose soil was sand, and whose vegetation looked stunted,
+presenting little to cheer the senses, or call forth remark; in fact,
+everything around told of a country whose centre is flourishing, but
+whose frontiers are a wilderness. Just before we started, a
+well-dressed negro, apparently a footman or butler, applied for a seat
+in the carriage. He was told by the station-keeper, that there was no
+conveyance for "niggers" this train, and he must wait for the following
+one. He at first disputed his right to refuse him a passage in the
+carriage, which roused the ire of the station-keeper, who threatened to
+kick him if he was not soon off. This seemed to awe him, for he quietly
+left the station, muttering, however, as he went, his intention of
+reporting the circumstance to Colonel Gambole. This caused me to make
+some inquiry about the colonel whose name he had mentioned, and who I
+learned was his master. I was also informed that no negroes in that
+district were so insolent, owing to the indulgence with which all his
+hands were treated. I could see, however, that the negro had different
+men to deal with here, and if he had not taken his departure, he would,
+without a doubt, have been kicked or felled to the ground, on the least
+further provocation--a course pursued without hesitation in cases where
+a negro assumes anything like equality in the south.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+  "The fragrant birch above him hung
+    Her tassels in the sky,
+  And many a vernal blossom sprung,
+    And nodded careless by.
+  But there was weeping far away;
+    And gentle eyes for him,
+  With watching many an anxious day,
+    Were sorrowful and dim."--BRYANT.
+
+
+Florida, in which state I now found myself, is divided into East, West,
+and Middle. It is a wild extent of country, about 300 miles from north
+to south. The king of Spain held possession of the territory in 1810,
+but it was afterwards ceded by treaty to the Federal Government. It was
+discovered in 1497 by Sebastian Cabot. St. Augustine is the capital of
+East, and Pensacola of West, Florida. This country is, for the most
+part, a howling wilderness, and is never likely to become thickly
+populated. The dreary pine-barrens and sand-hills are slightly
+undulating, and are here and there thickly matted with palmetto.
+
+In pursuance of my original design, I had now to penetrate nearly a
+hundred miles into the interior; and, as the Indians and fugitive
+negroes were scouring that part of the country in hostile bands, I
+contemplated this part of my route with no little anxiety. I determined,
+however, to proceed. The journey lay through a wild country, intersected
+with streams and rivers, every one of which swarmed with alligators.
+This, although not a very pleasant reflection, did not trouble me much,
+as I had by this time become acquainted with the propensities of these
+creatures, and knew that they were not given to attacking white men,
+unless provoked or wounded, although a negro or a dog is never safe
+within their reach. They are, however, repulsive-looking creatures, and
+it is not easy to divest the mind of apprehension when in their
+vicinity.
+
+My destination was an inlet of the sea, called Deadman's Bay, from
+whence it was my intention, after transacting some business I had
+undertaken, to take passage by steamer to Cuba, intending to return to
+the continent, after a limited stay there, and on some of the adjacent
+islands. In this, however, I was disappointed, as I shall by-and-by
+show. My plan was to travel by easy stages under escort, and encamp out
+at night; so, having secured the services of six men, who were well
+armed and mounted on horseback, and having furnished ourselves with a
+tent and other necessaries, which were carried by individuals of the
+party, we left Tallahassee, on our way inland, under a scorching sun. We
+could proceed but slowly after reaching the pine-barrens, the soil of
+which is loose sand, and at every step the animals we rode sank to the
+fetlock, which caused them to be greatly fatigued at the close of the
+day.
+
+At night-fall, after selecting our ground adjacent to a river, we
+pitched our tent, and supper was prepared. This consisted of jerked
+venison (dried by a slow fire), broiled turkey, two of which we had shot
+upon our way, bread, and coffee. One of our party walked round our
+position as a sentinel, and was relieved every two hours; it being
+necessary to keep a vigilant look out, on account of the Indian and
+runaway negro marauders, who roam through these wilds in bands, and
+subsist chiefly in plundering farms and small parties. A huge fire of
+resinous pine branches (which are plentiful in these solitudes, and
+strew the ground in all directions, blackened with fire and age) was
+blazing to keep off the wolves and catamounts, whose terrific yells, in
+conjunction with other beasts, prevented our sleeping. They did not,
+however, venture within rifle shot. The Indians, on attacking small
+parties, have a practice of imitating the cry of the wolf, and this
+circumstance being known to us, tended not a little to raise our
+suspicions on hearing the fearful howlings that rang through the
+wilderness.
+
+In the morning, we proceeded through barren sand-plains, skirted with
+dense hammocks (jungles) and forests. We were much annoyed by mosquitoes
+and sand-flies, which kept the whole party in discomfort from their
+attacks. Dusky-looking deer-flies constantly alighted on our faces and
+hands, and made us jump with the severity of their bites, as did also a
+large fly, of brilliant mazarine blue colour, about the size of a humble
+bee, the name of which I have forgotten.
+
+In crossing one of the numerous streams, we had to wade or swim our
+horses over, an incident occurred which rather alarmed me. I was on a
+horse of that Arabian blood, build, and spirit, so common in
+saddle-horses in America, and a little in advance of the party, when I
+reached a river that intersected our track, and which we had to cross.
+After allowing the animal to quench its thirst, I applied spurs and
+urged it into the stream; it being averse from some cause to take the
+water. The stream was, however, deeper than I anticipated, and the horse
+immediately began to stumble and flounder in an alarming manner,
+showing that the river bed was uneven and rocky. About half-way across
+was a small island, that divided the stream, which after much difficulty
+he reached; resting here about a minute, I again urged him forward, but
+the animal seemed very reluctant to go. He wheeled short round, snorted
+loudly as if in fear, and was evidently in unusual alarm. After some
+coaxing, he, however, plunged into the water, and I expected to be able
+to gain the opposite shore in advance of my companions, but just as we
+were half-way between the little island and the opposite bank, which was
+very steep, the horse again became restive, rearing as if dreadfully
+frightened. I had the greatest difficulty to keep the saddle, which was
+a high Mexican one, covered with bear-skin, and as easy to ride in as a
+chair. I now began to suspect the cause of his alarm. The stream was one
+of those black-looking currents that flow noiselessly along, and which
+in Florida always harbour the largest-sized alligators. When I first
+came to it, I remembered this, and thinking to frighten off any of these
+lurkers that might be in the vicinity, I had dashed precipitately into
+the stream. This practice, or shouting loudly and firing a pistol into
+the water, usually succeeds. I soon found out, however, that the
+presence of one of the ugly creatures was the cause of the horse's
+trepidation, for, within six feet of us, I discerned a pair of eyes, set
+in huge brown excrescences, fixed intently on me and my horse, with
+malicious gaze. I knew they belonged to a veteran, and dreading lest its
+snout might be within two feet of my leg, for the old alligators boast
+enormous length of jaw, I sat tailor-wise in my saddle, and levelled my
+rifle at the horrid object; the reptile had, however, observed my
+movements, and disappeared beneath the surface; I instantly discharged
+my piece in the direction he had taken, and certainly gave him a lesson,
+for the water around me was directly after tinged with blood; he was
+probably hurt severely, or he might have resented my temerity. I soon
+after reached the shore in safety, where I was speedily joined by the
+escort, who saw nothing of the reptile in their way across, and who,
+being men bred amongst such scenes, and totally divested of fear, at
+once took the water, although they had witnessed the encounter.
+
+The cayman of South America is very ferocious, and is popularly styled
+the hyena of the alligator tribe. This savage creature will instantly
+attack a man or a horse, and on this account the Indians of Chili,
+before wading a stream, take the precaution of using long poles, to
+ascertain its presence or to drive it away. Naturalists assert that the
+cayman is not found in the North American rivers, and I should imagine
+this to be correct, for, although engaged in many alligator hunts, I
+found from personal experience and minute inquiry that the species found
+in North America is harmless if unmolested.
+
+After a laborious ride we arrived at Fort Andrews, where we found a
+military station of U.S. Infantry. We halted here for several days, I
+having business requiring my attention, and ourselves and our beasts
+needing to recruit our strength, before continuing our route to the Bay.
+The forest scenery here almost defies description. Immense cedars, and
+other lordly trees, rear their gigantic and lightning-scathed heads over
+their smaller and less hardy but graceful neighbours; cactuses,
+mimonias, and tropical shrubs and flowers, which at home are to be seen
+only in conservatories or green-houses are here in profusion,
+
+  "And plants, at whose name the verse feels loath,
+  Fill the place with a monstrous undergrowth,
+  Prickly, and pulpous, and blistering, and blue,
+  Livid, and starred with a lurid hue,"
+
+while innumerable forms of insect and reptile life, from the tiny yellow
+scorpion to the murky alligator of eighteen feet in length, give a
+forbidding aspect to the scene. Racoons, squirrels, wild turkeys,
+pelicans, vultures, quails, doves, wild deer, opossums, chickmuncks,
+white foxes, wild cats, wolves,--are ever and anon to be seen among the
+high palmetto brakes, and the alligators in the bayous arid swamps,
+"make night hideous" with their discordant bellowings and the vile odour
+which they emit. The _tout ensemble_ of the place brings to recollection
+those striking lines of Hood,
+
+  "O'er all there hung the shadow of a fear,
+  A sense of mystery the spirit daunted,
+  And said, as plain as whisper in the ear,
+    The place is haunted."
+
+During my stay at Fort Andrews, a large detachment of U.S. troops
+arrived, continuing a campaign against the recreant Indians and negroes.
+The appearance of the men and officers was wretched in the extreme; they
+had for weeks been beating through swamps and hammocks, thickly matted
+with palmetto bush, which had torn their undress uniforms in tatters,
+searching for an invisible enemy, who, thoroughly acquainted with the
+everglades, defied every attempt at capture. The whole party looked
+harassed, disappointed, and forlorn. General Taylor was with and had
+command of this detachment, which was about 400 strong. As I had heard
+this man vauntingly spoken of in the north, as the brave cotemporary of
+Scott, I felt no little curiosity to see him. His appearance surprised
+me. He was a burly, unmilitary-looking man, of most forbidding aspect,
+and much more like a yeoman than a soldier. A sword, much out of place,
+dangled awkwardly by his side, and was the only badge of his profession
+about him, except a black leathern cap; otherwise, he was habited as a
+private citizen. His small army encamped below the fort; and, as I
+thought, in most un-general style, he superintended the erection of his
+own marquee. He had with him several negroes, who were his body
+servants; and the coarse epithets he applied to them during the
+operation did not prepossess me in his favour, or, I thought, reflect
+much credit on his refinement.
+
+At nightfall cries of distress arose from the marquee, and as I
+approached it I could distinctly hear one of the bondsmen earnestly
+pleading for mercy. Listening for a moment, I heard this distinguished
+general exclaiming vociferously, and belabouring the poor negro heavily
+with a raw-hide whip; most likely venting the spleen he felt at his
+non-success against the Indians, the expedition having hitherto been
+unsuccessful. The poor negro had offended his master, by some trivial
+act, no doubt, and in southern style he was correcting him, without much
+regard, it is true, to publicity. This, in southern latitudes, is so
+common, that it is thought little of; and the occurrence caused on this
+occasion only a passing remark from those present. The negro was his
+own, and he had a right, it was stated, to correct him, as and when he
+pleased; who could dispute it? For my own part, I entertained the most
+abhorrent feelings towards a man, who, without sense of shame, or decent
+regard for his station, thus unblushingly published his infamy amongst
+strangers, and this man a would-be patriot, too, and candidate for the
+Presidential chair, which, it will be remembered, he afterwards
+obtained. I was told that flogging his negroes was a favourite pastime
+with this eminently-distinguished general, and that he was by no means
+liked by his officers or men. His appearance bespoke his tyrannical
+disposition; and this, coupled with incapacity, there is little doubt,
+conduced to make it necessary for him to relinquish his command of the
+army of the south, which he did not long after, being succeeded, I
+believe, by General Armstead.
+
+As I mentioned before, the force that accompanied him was in forlorn
+case, reminding me strongly of Shakspere's description of Falstaff's
+ragged regiment. It consisted chiefly of raw, undrilled troops, quite
+unused to discipline, but, perhaps, as effective as veterans in the
+service in which they were employed, the adroitness of the enemy,
+accustomed to the interminable swamps, hammocks, and cane-brakes which
+abound in this country, quite paralyzing the energies of the men, and
+destroying that _esprit du corps_ without which no success can be
+expected in an army.
+
+Several Indian sachems or chiefs accompanied the command; these were
+fine-looking fellows, but appeared exhausted from long marching through
+the wilderness One of these, named Powell, particularly attracted my
+notice; he was a very interesting young man, of feminine aspect, and
+little resembling his stalwart companions. He had originally been
+captured, but by kind treatment had been brought over to friendly views,
+and was now acting as a guide. It was stated that his father was much
+incensed against him, and had employed emissaries to despatch him
+secretly. A few months after this campaign I heard that he was shot
+while out hunting; no doubt, at the instigation of his unnatural parent,
+who preferred his death to his continuing in league with white men.
+
+Leaving Fort Andrews, I now pushed onward to Deadman's Bay. The country
+we passed through was much the same as I have before described; the
+journey took us the better part of two days. On the way we saw a herd of
+wild cattle, which scoured the plain in consternation on espying our
+party; urging on our horses, we tried to bring one down, but they
+outstripped us. Some miles farther on, and near a thick hammock, about a
+quarter of a mile a-head, a huge black bear stood snuffing the air; we
+again put spurs to our horses to try to intercept his retreat, but he
+was too quick for us, and made at his utmost speed (a sort of shambling
+trot) for the coppice or jungle, which he soon entered, and disappeared
+from our sight. At nightfall, a pack of ravenous wolves, headed by a
+large white one, serenaded us, and came near enough to our camp-fire to
+seize a small terrier belonging to one of the party. The poor animal,
+unused to the dangers around, had the temerity to run out and bark at
+the pack--he soon after gave one agonizing yelp, and we never saw him
+again. As a reprisal, three of the party fired, and brought one of the
+wolves to the ground; he was of great size, and, I should say, could
+have carried away a sheep, or a good sized hog (of which they are very
+fond), with ease. We could not, however, skin him--he was so infested
+with fleas. In the settlements they often seize and carry off children,
+but they do not molest adults.
+
+As we proceeded, we kept a vigilant look-out for Indians, a number of
+whom, we had heard at Fort Andrews, had been driven in the direction we
+were travelling. We fortunately escaped molestation, but saw in several
+places human bones, probably the relics of a former combat between the
+United States troops, or travellers like ourselves, and Indians or
+negroes. One skull I picked up had been split with a tomahawk, besides
+having a bullet-hole in it about the region of the left ear. Our
+situation was one of great peril, but I had made up my mind to proceed
+at all hazards, despite the opposition shown by two or three of the
+settlers composing my escort, who, on more than one occasion, pointed
+out Indian camp-grounds of only a few days' age. At one of these we
+found a quantity of Indian flour or arrowroot, part of a bridle, and the
+offal of a calf; but we left the former, imagining it might be poisoned,
+the latter was of no use, our only dog having been devoured by the
+wolves. Passing through a dense hammock, of a quarter of a mile in
+width, through which the pioneers of the American army had recently cut
+a rough road, I dismounted, to take a view of these sombre shades on
+either hand. The solemn stillness around seemed to me like the shadow of
+death--especially so, from the peril we were in through the deadly feud
+existing at the time between the Indians and white men. I penetrated for
+full a quarter of a mile into this fastness in a lateral direction, and,
+in doing so, suddenly startled two immense white birds of the adjutant
+species, which were standing in a swamp surrounded by majestic cedar
+trees. I could easily have brought one down with my rifle, but I thought
+it wanton cruelty to do so. They were, I should think, quite six feet
+high, and beautifully white, with a yellow tinge. The head of one,
+which, I suppose, was the male bird, was surmounted by a golden crest.
+They sailed quietly away over my head, not appearing much alarmed by the
+intrusion.
+
+In these primeval shades, where, perhaps, the foot of man never before
+trod (for I looked in vain for such traces), are many beasts, birds, and
+reptiles, which live in perfect security; for, although the Indian
+dwells here, and subsists by hunting, yet the territory is so vast, and
+the red men are so few in proportion, that there can be little doubt
+that many places are untraversed.
+
+Emerging on the open sand-plain somewhat unexpectedly, I caused my party
+no little alarm; they instinctively grasped their rifles, imagining the
+approach of a party of hostile Indians.
+
+The constant dread of molestation causes the traveller here to be ever
+on the _qui-vive_, the precaution being highly necessary, to prevent
+surprise. The least movement in a coppice excites apprehension, and
+fills the soul of both the resolute and the timorous with anticipations
+of danger. Nor are these fears groundless, for the treacherous Indian
+crawls stealthily to the attack, and, without a moment's warning, two or
+three of a party may fall to the earth, pierced by rifle-balls, or
+rearing horses may throw the riders, and leave them at the mercy of
+these ruthless assassins.
+
+Arriving at length at the Bay in safety, I was accommodated in the
+officers' quarters of a temporary fort or stockade, erected there. The
+steamer had left, so that I was compelled to remain here longer than I
+had intended, awaiting the arrival of the next boat. To beguile the
+time, I went for miles into the forests, looking for game, often coming
+back disappointed and weary; at others rewarded by, perhaps, a racoon,
+or, what I valued more, a fawn or wild turkey. There was, however,
+plenty of sport on the river, and thousands of wild ducks, gannet, and
+pelicans, inhabited the little islands in the vicinity, and reared their
+young there; some of these islands being covered with their eggs. Large
+numbers of alligators infested the streams adjacent, and their
+bellowings, in concert with bull-frogs and other reptiles, often
+banished sleep for nights together, although I was pretty well
+accustomed to such annoyances. Snakes were often to be met with,
+although harmless if unmolested; amongst these, the moccason, hoop, and
+garter snakes, of which I procured several specimens, were the most
+common to be met with. Rattle-snakes exist in rocky districts, but I saw
+none of them here.
+
+The steamer not arriving as I anticipated, after remaining for a
+considerable time, and getting tired of so solitary a life, I determined
+to retrace my steps to Tallahassee.
+
+While remaining at this post, a party of mounted volunteers arrived from
+Georgia. These men were mostly sons of farmers, who had suffered from
+the unceasing attacks of the Indians on their farms, in many instances
+accompanied by the butchery of some members of their families. It was
+arranged that a company of U.S. Infantry, stationed at the fort, should
+act in concert with these men, and scour the country for twenty miles
+round, to search for Indians, traces of whom had been seen, and who, it
+was very certain, were encamped not many miles off. As I felt desirous
+of observing the operations of these little campaigns against so wily a
+foe, I intimated to a major, my intention of accompanying the
+expedition. He was pleased with the proposal, and furnished me with a
+splendid rifle and other equipments, from the stores of the depôt. After
+a short delay, owing to the non-arrival of some waggons that were
+intended to accompany the expedition, the whole force mustered in front
+of the stockade enclosure, and being furnished with ten days' provisions
+for man and horse, started under command of the major aforesaid, across
+the sand-plains, in order to reach a dense cedar and cypress swamp, ten
+miles distant, where it was suspected the enemy was concealed. After a
+tedious march through a wild country, so overgrown with saw palmetto and
+underbrush, that our horses had great difficulty to get through it, we
+arrived at the skirts of the swamp; here a consultation took place
+between the officers present, and it was arranged that an Indian guide
+whom we had with us, should go in and hold a parley with the Indians, to
+induce them if possible, to surrender. The guide went into the hammock,
+which extended along the edge of the swamp as far as the eye could
+reach, right and left. I should have mentioned, that this man, with the
+usual Indian acuteness, had discovered indubitable signs that the enemy
+was in the vicinity, long before we reached the spot. After an absence
+of about an hour, during which time we refreshed ourselves, and made
+preparations for an expected struggle, our guide returned, bringing with
+him a bow and quiver of arrows, as proofs of his interview with the
+secreted Indians. The account he gave, which was interpreted by a
+half-bred Indian who accompanied the expedition for the purpose, was,
+that after penetrating some distance into the fastness, he came to the
+encampment of the enemy, and was instantly surrounded by warriors, who
+seized him, but after parleying for a considerable time, let him go,
+presenting him with a bow and arrows, as a symbol of their unflinching
+resolve to continue the war.
+
+On hearing this, it was at once determined by the officer in command
+that the whole force (except a guard for the horses and waggons) should
+go in and surprise them. The guide shook his head at this, and, pointing
+towards the swamp, said, "That is the way. I have shown it to you;
+follow it if you will; I do not go." It was, however, of no use to
+dally, and orders were given for all hands to follow into the swamp. For
+my own part, I wished to stay behind, but was told that such a course
+was attended with danger, as the Indians would most likely emerge from
+another part of the hammock, and endeavour to seize the horses, and
+ransack the waggons. This decided my adopting the least of the two
+evils, although I fully expected we should have a battle. After
+penetrating for I should think upwards of two miles, sometimes up to our
+knees in miry clay, and often stopped by impassable barriers of wild
+vines and other prehensile plants, which annoyed us greatly, and made me
+regret a thousand times that I had courted such dangers and
+inconveniences, the sound of two rifle-shots threw the whole party into
+indescribable commotion. Supposing we were attacked, all hands flew as
+quick as thought to the trees around, where each one, peeping from
+behind the trunks which were sought as a shelter against the rifle-balls
+of the expected foe, waited for a few moments in great suspense, when,
+suddenly, a loud cheer from the party in advance, followed by several
+rifle-shots, told us they had come upon the encampment. As the firing
+ceased, I knew the Indians had fled; this seemed also the opinion of the
+volunteers near me, who simultaneously left their hiding-place, and
+pushed forward to the scene. On arriving at the spot, I found the
+soldiers around a large Indian fire, over which was suspended a boiling
+cauldron, filled with venison, the Indians having been, no doubt,
+preparing a meal when disturbed by us; by the side, and not far from the
+fire, was a large trough, made out of a fallen tree, in which was a
+quantity of arrowroot in course of preparation. This plant grows
+plentifully in this latitude, and is the principal fare of the Indians,
+their squaws superintending the management of it. The remains of a fine
+buck lay near, and also some moccasons, leggings, and other Indian gear.
+
+The enemy we had so unceremoniously disturbed had, as usual, taken
+flight; but we found traces of blood, and the advanced party stated that
+they had fired on two warriors, who, with a woman and two children, were
+on the spot when they came up.
+
+As it was deemed quite useless to pursue them, from their being, no
+doubt, well acquainted with the intricacies of the fastness, and,
+therefore, sure to evade us, we regaled ourselves on the venison, of
+which some refused to partake, lest it should be poisoned. It was
+decided that the force should emerge from the swamp to the open plain
+about a mile above the spot where we had left the waggons, by a
+circuitous route; this was accordingly done, but our progress was so
+difficult, that the Indians had ample opportunity to fly before us, and
+we saw no further traces of them.
+
+On reaching the waggons, we found, to our great satisfaction, that all
+was safe, and as night was approaching, it was decided to encamp there,
+a spring of turbid water being in the vicinity A cordon of sentinels was
+accordingly placed around our resting-place, and some tents were pitched
+for a portion of the party; the remainder, wrapped in blankets, sleeping
+on the sand. After the whiskey had passed round, the jocular little
+major in command proposed a song, and as one of the infantry soldiers
+was an adept at the art, he was invited to our marquee. Although in the
+very midst of danger, for we knew not how formidable in number the
+Indians were, we passed a merry evening.
+
+Soon after this affair, the party returned to the bay, and in a day or
+two I started on my return to Tallahassee. About twenty miles from
+Deadman's Bay, we overtook a fugitive negro, and as we came upon him
+unexpectedly, when turning the edge of a hammock, he had not time to
+retreat, being within rifle-range, or he would doubtless have done so.
+He threw up his arms, and gave a piercing shriek (an unvariable custom
+of Indians when in danger), expecting to be instantly shot. He had,
+however, nothing to fear, having fallen in with friends and not foes. As
+I saw he was without a rifle, I dashed forward and accosted him first.
+He was soon assured, by my manner of addressing him, and begged
+earnestly that we would not detain or hurt him. This I at once promised,
+if he would inform us whether Indians were near. He said no, they had
+left that country two suns (days) ago, taking an easterly direction, and
+we might proceed to Fort Andrews in safety.
+
+After putting several other questions to him, I inquired if the Indians
+would cross our path to Tallahassee from that post. He said no, they
+were far off in another direction, having gone to East Florida, eighty
+miles distant. The fellow was in poor case, and begged for food, saying
+he was starving. I, therefore, desired the men to supply him with some
+dried venison and bread, which he ate with avidity. He refused to tell
+me his master's name, but said there were hundreds of negroes fighting
+with the Indians, six from the same plantation as himself. My companions
+were at first intent upon securing him, but being averse to that
+course, I dared them to do it; when, seeing I was fully determined on
+this point, they did not insist. Pointing to the hammock, after giving
+him a dram of brandy, I bid him be off, when he darted like a deer into
+the thicket, and disappeared from our view, with a loud shout of
+exultation.
+
+About ten miles further on, as we passed the edge of a dense hammock, we
+heard the bay of an Indian dog, and fearing the proximity of a party of
+marauders, we were instantly on the alert. The dog did not, however,
+come out of the wood, and we rode from the dangerous vicinity with all
+dispatch. Arrived again at Fort Andrews, without any further adventure
+worth recording, we found a party of volunteers about to proceed to Fort
+Pleasant, in the direction we were going. After recruiting my now almost
+exhausted strength by a refreshing sleep, I went down to their
+encampment, by the river's edge. They had the day before encountered a
+strong party of Indians, whom they repulsed with loss. Some of the party
+showed me several bloody scalps of warriors they had killed. I could not
+help remarking the beauty of the hair, which was raven-black, and shone
+with a beautiful gloss. They had several captured Indian women with
+them, and half-a-dozen children; the former were absorbed in grief, and
+one in particular, whose young husband had been shot in the fray, and
+whose scalp was one of those I have just mentioned, was quite
+overwhelmed. The children, little conscious of the misery of their
+parents, swam about and dived in the river like amphitrites; they each
+carried a small bow and quiver of arrows. There is no doubt the Indians
+these volunteers had fallen in with and routed, were the identical party
+referred to by the negro we had met some forty-eight hours before.
+
+I had made up my mind to stay at Fort Andrews for a time, partly to
+fulfil an engagement with a friend whom I had arranged to meet here, and
+to whom I shall shortly have to refer more at length, and partly to
+recruit my strength, a tertian ague having seized me, which much
+debilitated my frame, and made travelling very irksome. My accommodation
+was indifferent, but medical assistance, which I needed most, was not
+wanting, and I shall never forget the courtesy of the officers.
+
+I employed my time chiefly in rambling the woods, when health would
+permit, and had a boat lent to me, with which, in company, I several
+times penetrated the tortuous river, Esteenahatchie, to the bay, some
+miles distant. At night the boats were all sunk, or they would have been
+stolen or destroyed by the Indians, who hovered round and committed
+petty depredations at every opportunity. Below the fort, was a ruinous
+mill, in a gloomy dell, through which the river wended its silent
+course. This had once been tenanted, but the inhabitants were murdered
+some years before by the Indians, who afterwards (as is their almost
+unvarying custom), added to the atrocity by setting fire to the
+building.
+
+Sitting one day, after a lengthened ramble, in solitary meditation on my
+position and the surrounding scenery, I saw a fine Indian, who appeared
+greatly fatigued, emerge from the adjoining hammock, and walk to the
+edge of the stream, and there, after glancing round him with eager eye
+and air, he laid down his rifle, and stepping on to a tree which
+debouched into the stream (lying as it had been struck down by a
+tornado), he crouched down at the end of it, and commenced laving
+himself with the water. His appearance was romantic, and there is no
+doubt, from his dress, he was a warrior of some note, probably following
+his wife, one of the squaws captured by the volunteers I have before
+mentioned, and who were still at Fort Andrews, awaiting orders from
+General Taylor. I could have shot him to a certainty, had I been armed,
+which was not the case. Had it been so, however, I was predetermined
+never, unless in self-defence, to imbrue my hands in Indian or negro
+blood while in the territory, neither was I disposed to betray him, for
+I deeply sympathized with the misfortunes of his race, and well knew
+that an inexcusable spirit of aggrandizement on the part of the Federal
+Government had in the first place roused the indignation of both negroes
+and red men, and provoked hostilities. After performing his ablution,
+the Indian stalked like a deer into the recesses of the forest, I having
+in the mean time, as a matter of policy, moved out of danger, for he was
+no doubt animated with feelings of dire revenge, and in a very different
+mood from that in which I have described myself to have been at the
+time.
+
+During my visit to Deadman's Bay, I had become acquainted with a Scotch
+gentleman, who was employed on the medical staff of the U.S. army, I
+believe, as a supernumerary, or candidate for a commission as a surgeon.
+He was a most agreeable companion, of good natural parts, fluent in
+conversation, intelligent in remark, free from egotism, and well
+educated, I believe, at Cambridge, in England. We soon became attached
+to each other. He accompanied me in my rambles, and we were almost
+inseparable companions during my stay. He was one of those beings, in
+fine, who seem to be sent at times to cheer the darkened highway of
+existence under gloomy circumstances; and I fondly hoped to enjoy with
+him a lengthened period of virtuous intimacy, and close, unalloyed
+friendship, on more propitious soil.
+
+But the decrees of Providence are inscrutable, and "his ways," indeed,
+"past finding out." This was certainly strikingly exemplified by the
+catastrophe I am about to relate, which deprived me for ever of my
+friend.
+
+When at the bay, he expressed a wish to visit St. Marks, Tallahassee,
+and Apalachicola, and stated his intention, as soon as his engagements
+permitted, to proceed thither by steamer, if opportunity offered--or
+failing this, to go overland, availing himself of some escort which
+might be proceeding in that direction. As I felt desirous to have his
+company, on my route to South Carolina, I arranged to halt at Fort
+Andrews, as before stated, that he should join me there in a week, and
+then proceed in company with me to Fort Pleasant, forty miles distant,
+and thence to Tallahassee.
+
+The time having now come at which I was expecting his arrival, I was one
+morning anxiously looking out through the long vista of pine trees and
+barrens, when I descried in the distance two horsemen approaching at
+their greatest speed; I at first imagined them to be, as they indeed
+proved, an advanced party of my friend's escort--but, on their coming
+up, I could see, from the agitation they were in, and the foaming state
+of their horses, which were quite white and in a dreadfully exhausted
+state, that something alarming had happened.
+
+The tale was soon told:--It appeared, that about midway between the two
+settlements, or stations, a party of Indians in ambush had fired upon
+the party, and my friend had been treacherously murdered. I was much
+affected by this intelligence, and, after some consultation with a
+gentleman there, determined to get up a pretty strong party, and proceed
+to the scene of the murder, to collect the remains of my poor friend,
+whose bones would otherwise be left, as I had seen others in those
+regions, to bleach on the sand hills. We soon started, the party
+consisting of fourteen men, well armed with rifles, bowie knives, and
+pistols, accompanied by a waggon, drawn by four stout mules and driven
+by a negro, to convey back the remains. The expedition was attended with
+no little danger, from the proximity of a newly-discovered party of
+Indians, who were committing dreadful ravages in the district--but
+whether in large or small force, was uncertain; they were, probably, the
+party I have before adverted to, lingering about the vicinity.
+
+After a melancholy journey, during which we were so absorbed by our
+feelings, that little was said; we reached the fatal spot, it being
+pointed but by one of the party who formed my friend's escort.' It was
+on the edge of a dense hammock, by the skirts of which lay some enormous
+trees, which had been levelled by a recent tornado. From behind this
+barricade the Indians had unexpectedly fired on the party--the attack
+was so sudden, that they appeared to have been quite taken by surprise.
+This was the more extraordinary, as the whole neighbourhood was of a
+description likely to be chosen by the red men for an ambuscade. The
+party attacked must have been in great trepidation, for, from what I
+could glean, the survivors put spurs to their horses' flanks, and
+galloped off to Fort Andrews, leaving my poor friend entirely at the
+mercy of the enemy. The survivor, who accompanied us, stated, that they
+were riding in Indian file, as is customary there; that poor H---- was
+in front of him; and that, directly the Indians gave their fire, he saw
+him fall backwards from his horse, at the same time raising his left
+hand to his head. He could tell no more, the horse he was on having
+wheeled round suddenly, and been urged on in retreat by its rider, who
+was in the greatest imaginable terror. Had the party halted, and
+returned the fire, for they were well armed, in all probability some of
+the marauders would have been laid low, or, if the Indians were but few,
+they might at least have rescued my poor friend.
+
+We found footmarks of Indians, which we traced; by these it appeared
+that they were in small force, and that when H---- fell from his horse
+he recovered his feet, and ran from the enemy, in the direction of the
+plain, for about two hundred yards--here it was evident he had been
+overtaken, and his skull cloven with a tomahawk from behind. We soon
+discovered his remains in the sand, denuded of every particle of flesh
+and muscle by the vultures and the ravenous wolves. We collected the
+bones with reverential care, and placed them in the waggon, for transit
+to Fort Andrews.
+
+On the bones of the little finger of the left hand was an emerald ring,
+which I had often seen the murdered man wear, and which, being covered
+with blood and sand at the time of the catastrophe, no doubt escaped the
+attention of the villians who perpetrated the atrocious act. The left
+jaw was fractured by a rifle-bullet, which knocked him off his horse
+backwards, as described by one of the survivors.
+
+In the pines opposite the place of ambush, we found several balls
+imbedded, and one had lodged in the pummel of the saddle of the man who
+was present, and who formed one of our party. It appeared probable that
+there were not more than four or five Indians engaged in the attack; a
+force which might easily have been repelled and annihilated with
+ordinary courage, but formidable enough to men wanting the presence of
+mind which is necessary under such circumstances.
+
+After a fatiguing journey, for which I was at the time almost totally
+unfitted by ill-health, our party reached Fort Andrews, with the mangled
+remains of the victim. A short time afterwards these were committed to
+the sand, a military salute being fired over the grave by some soldiers
+at the garrison. On an elevated slab of wood, to the north of Fort
+Andrews, may be seen a zinc plate, erected by me to the memory of my
+friend, with his name, the date of his death, and an epitome of the
+circumstances attending it. This memento of regard has, in all
+probability, escaped the cupidity of the Indians, for I took the
+precaution to have it placed as much out of sight as possible, and the
+place of burial was off the beaten track.
+
+Thus perished miserably, one whose generous openness and manly virtues
+rendered him dear to all who had the privilege of his acquaintance. He
+was a native of somewhere near Arbroath in Scotland, but his accent did
+not betray his nativity.
+
+In traversing the sandy deserts of West Florida, I had frequent
+opportunities of tracing the devastating effects of those awful
+visitations in tropical climates--hurricanes, or tornadoes; and,
+notwithstanding I had the good fortune to escape the danger of being
+exposed to one, I more than once prepared for the worst. One of these
+was accompanied with phenomena so unusual and striking to a native of
+Europe, that I must not omit some notice of it, if for no other purpose
+than to convey to the mind of the reader one of the many unpleasant but
+wonderful accompaniments of a residence in these latitudes, so
+poetically, and indeed so truthfully, apostrophized as "the sunny
+south."
+
+It was while on a journey (accompanied by two yeomen from East Florida,
+who were proceeding to join an expedition against the Indians to defend
+their hearths, and by the friend whose melancholy loss I have adverted
+to) from Deadman's Bay towards Tallahassee, that the occurrence I am
+about to mention took place It was in the height of summer, and for
+several days Fahrenheit's barometer had ranged from 84 to 90 degrees,
+the temperature being occasionally even higher, by some degrees, than
+this. We started soon after eight in the morning, and had ridden all day
+under a scorching sun, from the effects of which we were but
+ill-defended by our palm-leaf hats, for our heads were aching
+intensely--my own being, in common parlance, "ready to split," not an
+inapt simile, by the way, as I often experienced in the south. Towards
+evening, the sultriness increased to a great degree, and respiration
+became painful, from the closeness of the atmosphere. A suspicious lull
+soon after succeeded, and we momentarily expected the storm to overtake
+us. It was not, however, one that was to be relieved by an ordinary
+discharge of thunder, lightning, and rain--deeper causes being evidently
+at work. The denseness of the air was accompanied by a semi-darkness,
+similar to that which prevails during an eclipse of the sun, which
+luminary, on the occasion I refer to, after all day emitting a lurid
+glare, was so shrouded in vapour as to be scarcely discernible, even in
+outline--while a subterranean noise added to the terrors of our
+situation, which strongly called to mind the accounts we read of
+earthquakes and similar phenomena.
+
+We moved slowly on, as people naturally would who were about to be
+overwhelmed in a calamity that threatened their annihilation, while an
+indefinable sensation of sleepiness and inertia seized the whole of the
+party. Vultures and other birds of prey screamed dismally, as they
+hovered round our heads in the greatest excitement, arising either from
+terror or the anticipation of a rich repast, we could not tell which.
+These voracious creatures, with great audacity, often descended to
+within a few feet of the heads of our horses, which seemed
+terror-stricken at their near approach. I took aim at one of the largest
+of them with my rifle, and it fell a little to my left, with an impetus
+I can only compare to the fall of a human being. Directly it touched the
+ground, it vomited carrion and died. It was many feet in breadth from
+tip to tip of wing, but we were too perturbed to stop and measure it.
+When I discharged the rifle, the report was unusually faint, owing to
+the state of the air; so much so, that my companions, who were not fifty
+yards behind, scarcely heard it. The wild animals in the jungle which
+skirted the road, and which, in general, skulk in silence and secresy in
+their haunts, rent the air with their howlings. The very order of nature
+seemed about to be reversed, while the long streamers of grey moss
+swayed backwards and forwards mournfully from the trees, adding to the
+solemnity of the scene. As the party slowly wended its way through the
+wilderness, each individual looked round with suspicion, exchanging
+furtive glances, or now and then uttering some exclamation of
+alarm--their manner and bearing indicating minds ill at ease.
+
+This dismal state of things lasted nearly an hour, after which time
+nature seemed to recover herself by a sudden throe, for a brisk breeze,
+which was highly refreshing to our senses, and which was attended by the
+loud hollow subterranean sound I have before referred to, unexpectedly
+sprang up, and swept off, as if by magic, the inertia of nature. What
+made the phenomenon more extraordinary, was the total absence of thunder
+or lightning. My companions shouted for joy when the hollow moan of the
+embryo tempest was heard to move off to the eastward (for, as they
+informed me, it told of deliverance from peril); I felt a sensation of
+delight I cannot describe, and heartily responded to the noisy
+demonstration of satisfaction raised by my companions.
+
+Our horses, apparently participating in our delight, pricked up their
+ears, and snorted, fairly prancing with pleasure, tired and jaded as
+they were after thirty miles' travel through sand, into which they sank
+at every step fetlock deep, often groaning pitifully.
+
+I noticed that, during the impending storm, they hung down their heads
+in a listless manner, and sighed heavily, a circumstance that to our
+minds presaged calamity, and which, I may add, was altogether unlike the
+usual indication of fatigue in animals which have travelled a great
+distance. Had the tornado burst upon us, instead of passing off as it
+did, it is very doubtful whether the hand that writes this would not
+have been mingled with its native dust, in the arid sands of Florida;
+for, as we rode on, we saw gigantic pine, cedar, and hiccory trees,
+torn up by the roots, and scattered over the surrounding country, by
+by-gone hurricanes, many of them hundreds of yards from the spot that
+nurtured their roots--while the gnarled branches lying across our track,
+scorched black-with the lightning, or from long exposure to a burning
+sun, impeded our advance, and made the journey anything but pleasant.
+
+The occurrence I have mentioned formed a topic of conversation for some
+miles as we journeyed to our destination; and one of my companions
+stated, that a few months before, when in the neighbourhood of
+Pensacola, a hurricane came on unexpectedly, and caused great
+devastation, unroofing the houses, tearing up trees, and filling the air
+with branches and fragments of property. He happily escaped, although
+his little estate, situated at Mardyke Enclosure, some short distance
+from the town, was greatly injured, and some six or eight people were
+crushed to death by the falling trees and ruins of houses.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+        "Before us visions come
+    Of slave-ships on Virginia's coast,
+      Of mothers in their childless home,
+    Like Rachel, sorrowing o'er the lost;
+  The slave-gang scourged upon its way.
+  The bloodhound and his human prey."--WHITTIER.
+
+
+Florida produces oranges, peaches, plums, a species of cocoa-nut, and
+musk and water-melons in abundance. The more open portions of the
+country are dotted over with clumps of gnarled pines, of a very resinous
+nature, white and red oak, hiccory, cedar, and cypress, and is in
+general scantily clad with thin grass, fit only for deer to browse upon.
+The dreary sameness of the interior of this desolate country is
+distressing to the traveller; and the journey from one settlement to
+another, through pine-forests, seems almost interminable.
+
+One morning, a short time prior to my intended departure for
+Tallahassee, I was roused before daybreak by a rifle-shot, which was
+instantly followed by the cry of "Guard, turn out!" and much hubbub. As
+this was no unusual occurrence, from the constant apprehension we were
+in of an attack by the Indians on the stockade, and as it had several
+times occurred before during my stay, I resolved to lie and listen
+awhile before I rose. The earnest conversation and the noise of horses
+soon after satisfied me it was only a friendly arrival. I, however, felt
+anxious to obtain intelligence as to the success of a treaty then
+pending between the United States Government and the Indians; the
+favourable termination of which would not only render my return to
+Tallahassee more safe, but put a stop, perhaps for ever, to those
+constant scenes of blood and depredation that were by this time become
+quite sickening to me. This feeling was much enhanced at the time by the
+express between Fort Andrews and Deadman's Bay, being shot by a party of
+the common enemy. The body of this poor fellow was never found, but
+traces of blood were to be seen near the spot where he had been
+attacked; and the saddle and bridle of his horse were found cut into a
+thousand pieces; the probability being that he was wounded and taken
+prisoner, doubtless to be tortured to death, a practice common with all
+Indian tribes in time of war.
+
+On my proceeding to a house used as officers' quarters, outside the
+stockade, I found the stir had been caused by the arrival of two
+companies of light-horse soldiers from St. Marks, escorting several
+couples of bloodhounds, to aid the army, operating in that part of
+Florida, to exterminate the Indians. These dogs were very ferocious,
+and, on approaching the leashmen, who had them in charge, they opened in
+full yell, and attempted to break loose. The dogs had just arrived from
+Cuba with their keepers, their importation having been caused by the
+supposition, that, like the Maroons in Jamaica, who, for nearly thirty
+years, defied the colonists there, the Indians would be terrified into
+submission. This, however, turned out to be erroneous; for, on their
+first trial, the Indians killed several, and the scheme was very
+properly abandoned a short time after.
+
+Such barbarous means were very unjustifiable, although many (to use the
+language of the Earl of Chatham, when deprecating a similar course in
+the English House of Lords) considered that every means that God and
+nature had placed in their hands, were allowable in the endeavour to
+bring to a close a war that had cost the Federal Government an immense
+amount of blood and treasure. I am of opinion, however, from what I
+afterwards heard, that the step was not an altogether popular one in the
+eastern and northern states, although it certainly was so in the
+southern; it being argued in the public prints there, that as dogs had
+been used in hunting down fugitive negroes from time immemorial, the
+mere fact of bloodhounds being used instead of mastiffs was a peccadillo
+unworthy of name.
+
+The tobacco plant, though growing in many parts of Florida
+spontaneously, like the broad-leafed dock in England, is often
+cultivated in garden-ground for domestic use, some of the finer kinds
+being as aromatic as those of Cuba. The soil in such places is rich;
+indeed, the plant will not thrive in many parts where this is not the
+case. The method of propagation, generally followed by the large
+growers, is that recommended by Loudon, in his incomparable
+_Encyclopedia of Agriculture,_ and is as follows:--The soil selected is
+in general loamy and deep; this is well broken up before planting, and
+frequently stirred to free it from the rich growth of weeds that, in
+Florida in particular, choke the growth of all plants if neglected. The
+seeds being small, they are lightly covered with earth, and then the
+surface is pressed down with a flat instrument used for the purpose. In
+two months after, the seedlings are ready to transplant, and are placed
+in drills, three feet apart every way. These are frequently watered, if
+there happens to be but little rain, which, in that arid climate, is
+often the case for weeks together, and the plants regularly looked
+over, to destroy a species of worm winch, if not removed, plays great
+havoc with the young buds. When four inches high, the plants are moulded
+up like potatoes in England; when they have six or seven leaves, and are
+just putting out a stalk, the top is nipped off, to make the leaves
+stronger and more robust. After this, the buds, which show themselves at
+the joints of the leaves, are plucked, and then the plants are daily
+examined, to destroy a caterpillar, of a singular form and grey in
+colour, which makes its appearance at this stage, and is very
+destructive to narcotic plants. When fit for cutting, which is known by
+the brittleness of the leaves, the plants are cut close to the ground,
+and allowed to lie some time. They are then put in farm-houses, in the
+chimney-corner, to dry; or, if the crop is extensive, the plants are
+hung upon lines in a drying-house, so managed that they will not touch
+each other. In this state, they are left to sweat and dry. When this
+takes place, the leaves are stripped off and tied in bundles; these are
+put in heaps, and covered with a sort of matting, made from the
+cotton-fibre or seaweed, to engender a certain heat to ripen the aroma,
+care being taken lest a fermentation should occur, which injures the
+value of the article; to avoid which the bundles are exposed and spread
+about now and then in the open air. This operation is called
+ventilating by the planters, and is continued until there is no apparent
+heat in the heaps. The plant is quite ornamental, and its blossoms form
+a pleasing feature in a garden of exotic productions.
+
+After a brief stay at Fort Andrews, subsequent to the last sad offices
+for my deceased friend, I left that spot on horseback for Tallahassee,
+in company with four settlers. We soon reached the more populated
+districts, without being molested by the Indians. Here they had
+committed sad devastations; we saw many farms without occupants, the
+holders having been either murdered by midnight assassins, or having
+fled in alarm. Adjoining these habitations, we found line peach
+orchards, teeming with fruit of the richest description, which lay in
+bushels on the ground, and with which we regaled ourselves. Enclosed
+maize fields overgrown with brambles, and cotton fields with the gins
+and apparatus for packing the produce in bales for the market, presented
+to the eye the very picture of desolation.
+
+Owing to cross roads we were at one time completely at fault, and there
+being no house in sight, I volunteered to ride off to the right and
+endeavour to obtain the information we were in need of. After riding
+about half-a-mile, I heard voices through a road-side coppice, which I
+took to be those of field-hands at work; going farther on I dismounted,
+and climbing the zigzag rail fence approached a negro at work in the
+field. I inquired if he could put me on the road to Tallahassee; he
+appeared much frightened at the intrusion, but stated he did not know,
+but his mas'r did, at the same time pointing to the plantation-house,
+situate the greater part of a mile distant; being averse to going there,
+for fear of impudent interrogation, I offered him money to go with me to
+the point where I had left my companions, and show us the way to the
+next house; he did not even know what it was I offered him, and in
+apparent amazement inquired what that was for; I explained, buy tobacco,
+buy whiskey; he appeared totally ignorant of its use, and I have no
+doubt he had never had money in his possession, or learned its use.
+Still, he refused to leave the field, a wise precaution, as I afterwards
+found, both for himself and me. The negro being resolute, there was now
+no alternative but to go to the house, on arriving at which, I met with
+such a reception as I had feared and anticipated. Three fierce dogs of
+the mastiff breed, regularly trained to hunting fugitive negroes, rushed
+out upon me. I had only a small riding whip with me, having left my
+fire-arms with a friend at Fort Andrews, and much dreaded laceration.
+Their noise soon brought out a ferocious, lank-visaged-looking man,
+about forty years of age, who immediately called off the dogs; but
+before I had time to make the inquiry that brought me there, he began in
+about the following strain,
+
+"What dye yer waunt up yar, stranger? Arter no good, I guess; you'd
+better put it 'bout straight. I see'd yer torking to the hands
+yonder--none o' yer 'mancipator doctrines yar."
+
+The fellow's address "struck me all of a heap," as he would himself have
+said, had he been in my situation; he spoke so fast, that I could not
+edge in a word; at last I stated the cause of my intrusion, but he would
+not believe a word, ordered me to quit the plantation or he would set
+the dogs on me, and was getting into such an ungovernable rage, that I
+thought it would be wise to follow his advice. So I slowly retreated to
+the yard entrance by which I had come in. Returning to my companions at
+the cross-roads, I found that, in my absence, a passer-by had given them
+the wished-for information, and we pushed on to a house of call, a few
+miles distant.
+
+As the ride was a long one, we halted at this house for refreshment,
+and, after baiting our horses, regaled ourselves upon some choice ham
+and eggs. At the table, three little negroes, one girl and two boys,
+under fourteen years of age, served as waiters. Their clothing was
+supplied by nature, being solely the primitive habiliments worn in Eden
+before the fall. This is quite customary in the south, where the rules
+of decency are commonly set at defiance, as if the curse of Adam's
+transgression applied not in this respect to the African race. The
+little creatures did not seem to be in the least aware of their degraded
+state; they were as agile as fawns, and their tact in administering to
+the wants of the company was quite remarkable.
+
+Just as we were about to proceed on our journey, a party of some
+half-a-dozen planters or overseers of neighbouring estates, mounted on
+fine mules, who had been searching for fugitive field-hands, rode up. I
+could see they were greatly excited, and one of them had a negro lassoed
+by the neck, one end of the rope being fastened to his high Spanish
+saddle. On coming up to the entrance gate, the one most in advance
+dismounted to open it; the mule, eager, perhaps, to get to a crib, or,
+what is more likely, to evade a brutal kick or blow, trotted through;
+this did not please its owner, who bellowed loudly to it to stop. The
+mule, however, still kept on, when the ruffian, in demoniac anger, drew
+from his belt a long bowie knife, and darting after the animal, hurled
+it at him with all his force. The blade of the weapon, which was six or
+seven inches long, entered and stuck fast in the abdomen of the agonized
+creature, which, for about twenty yards, ran on furiously, with the
+murderous knife in its vitals. It then fell-with a deep groan, while the
+fiend who had perpetrated this wanton act of barbarity and his
+companions watched its fall, and loudly exulted in it. I noticed that
+there was a deep scowl of hatred on the countenance of the negro
+prisoner as this drama was being enacted, and when the knife struck the
+poor mule he cried out, "Oh, mas'r, mas'r!" Societies for the
+suppression of cruelty to animals, are, as might be supposed, unknown in
+such remote situations, nor do they exist in any of the slave States and
+territories of America; so that redress in such a case was out of the
+question. I therefore consoled myself that the outrage had brought its
+own punishment in the loss of the mule, which was at least worth from
+eighty to one hundred dollars.
+
+Passing onwards, we reached Tallahassee by rather a circuitous route,
+_viá_ Mount Pleasant. Although in an indifferent state of health, from
+exposure to the poisonous miasma of the country, I, on the whole, felt
+pleased with my journey, now that its dangers were over, and grateful to
+the great Dispenser of all good, who had safely conducted me through
+them. At Tallahassee I saw in the streets, in charge of a
+ruffianly-looking fellow, two negroes, with heavy iron collars round
+their necks. These were captured run-aways; the collars, which must
+have weighed seven or ten pounds, had spikes projecting on either side.
+One of the poor creatures had hold of the spikes as he walked along to
+ease the load that pressed painfully on his shoulders.
+
+General Murat resided at the time in this neighbourhood; he is the
+brother of Jehoiachin, ex-king of Naples, and owns a large plantation,
+and, I was told, upwards of two hundred negroes, who were described as
+being humanely treated by him. This, however, is a very indefinite term,
+where all slave-owners profess to do the same, though the poor wretches
+over whom by law they impiously assume God's heritage, in ninety cases
+out of every hundred, are scantily clothed, worse fed than horses or
+mules, and worked to the utmost extent of human endurance, the humanity
+being, in most cases, left to the tender mercies of a brutal overseer,
+who exacts all he can. If the poor, tattered, squalid-looking beings I
+saw in Tallahassee be a fair specimen of the "humane treatment" I have
+referred to, heaven help them.
+
+General Murat, some years ago, married an American lady, who delighted
+in being called the "princess," a little piece of vanity quite in
+keeping with the aristocratical prejudices of American females in the
+south, who are devoted worshippers of lordly institutions and usages. I
+did not see the general myself, but was told he was often to be met
+lounging about the bars of the principal hotels (being quite
+Americanized in this respect). He was described as a very garrulous old
+gentleman, extremely fond of recounting his adventures, particularly his
+escape when the allied troops entered Paris, about the year of
+Bonaparte's subjugation.
+
+After remaining a few days in Tallahassee, I took the conveyance to
+Macon in Georgia, intending to pursue my route overland to Charleston in
+South Carolina. In the diligence (a clumsy apology for a coach) from
+Tallahassee to Macon, were several loquacious passengers. One of these
+amused and disgusted us by turns; for, after giving an epitome of his
+career, which was a chequered one, he related an incident that had
+recently occurred on a plantation he had been visiting, and, as it
+presents a novel feature in the asserted rights of slave-holders--how
+profane, I will not stop to inquire--I think it worth recording. After a
+recital of a drunken debauch, in which he had taken a part, described by
+him as a frolic, and which had been kept up for several days, his host,
+he said, anxious to show the high sense he entertained of the honour of
+the visit by making almost any sacrifice (this was said with great
+conceit), proposed to put a negro up with an apple on his head, in
+imitation of the ordeal imposed on William Tell, the Swiss patriot,
+declaring that he who divided the apple, or perforated it with a
+rifle-ball, should own the slave. This proposal, the gentleman very
+facetiously observed, the party jumped at, expecting some good sport;
+but added, "The fellow spoilt it, for he refused to stand still,
+although we 'used up' a cowhide over him for his obstinacy." The
+frivolous manner in which this intended outrage was related, filled me
+and my fellow-passengers with disgust. I thought it was not safe to
+remark on the proceeding, for I could see he was a very strenuous
+upholder of that disgraceful system of oppression, which stigmatizes and
+degrades the Americans as a people, and will continue to do so, until it
+is utterly abrogated, and their characters retrieved.
+
+This would-be patrician was a pedantic, swaggering bully, who, it was
+evident, entertained high notions of his importance, and owned, perhaps,
+large possessions,--in a word, he was an American aristocrat, and the
+description I have given is a fair one of his class in the south.
+Pointing to a hill, as we entered a little settlement on our way to
+Macon, he exclaimed, "See there, gentlemen, twenty years ago I toiled up
+that hill without a cent in my wallet (purse), but now" he continued,
+with the air of a potentate, "my niggers are the sleekest in our
+country. In those days," he went on, "glass inkstands stood on the
+desks of the bank I now am chief proprietor of; we have nothing but gold
+ones now." The fellow's bombast lowered him in the esteem of the
+passengers, who seemed indisposed to listen to him, and the latter part
+of the journey he said little, being in fact regularly sent to Coventry
+by us all. He afterwards amused himself much to our annoyance by
+whistling airs and singing snatches of songs, which caused one of the
+passengers, a lady, to leave the diligence at the next change of horses.
+He was quite an adept at whistling the air of "Yankee doodle." This want
+of deference to the sex, which I must say is an exception to the general
+behaviour of men there and in other parts of the Union I visited, did
+not fail to call forth animadversion; the remarks at one time being so
+pointed, that I began to feel uneasy lest the pugnacious spirit might be
+aroused in him, which leads so often in the south to serious encounters.
+
+Our conveyance, which more resembled a waggon than, a stage-coach,
+having by this time stopped at a large hotel at Macon, I alighted with
+much pleasure, for the roughness of the road, the disagreeable loquacity
+of the passenger I have described, and the recklessness of the driver,
+made the journey excessively unpleasant.
+
+The negro population in Georgia is very numerous, and their constant
+attempts to escape to the everglades in Florida, make unceasing
+vigilance on the part of their owners necessary for the safety of their
+property. In many instances where suspicion exists, they are never
+allowed on any pretence, to leave the estate or residence of the owner.
+
+At the Greensborough Railway Terminus, I noticed two negroes on their
+way to Charleston. Before being allowed to take their seat in an open
+carriage in the rear of the train, the clerk at the station stepped up
+to them, and with an air of great effrontery demanded to see their
+passes; these were instantly shown with an alacrity that plainly
+indicated fear; they were then shut in a box in the rear of the train,
+in which I could see no sitting accommodation. The way in which these
+men were treated presented nothing new, for I had invariably noticed
+that coloured people in the south, whether bond or free, were spoken to
+with supercilious haughtiness, which I never once saw them openly
+resent.
+
+On arriving at the next station a trader got into the carriage. He had
+with him two negro men and a boy; these were secured to each other by
+hand-cuffs and a slight negro chain.
+
+For the last forty miles of my journey, I had a very pleasant companion
+in a gentleman from the state of Alabama. He was a most agreeable and
+intelligent young fellow, but invalided like myself through the
+poisonous miasma of the south. I entered freely into conversation with
+him on general matters, in the course of which I introduced slavery in
+several of its bearings. I soon discovered by his bias, that he was
+decidedly in favour of "things as they are."
+
+Being anxious to obtain some information as to the observance of the
+nuptial tie amongst slaves, I touched upon that subject, when he told me
+the ceremony was mostly a burlesque, and that unions were in general but
+temporary, although he had known some very devoted couples. But he
+proceeded to state that there was much room for reform in this respect.
+"I will relate to you an instance," said he, "of the manner in which
+this, as we white people consider it, solemn compact, is entered into
+amongst field-hands. When a couple wish to live together as man and
+wife, the male nigger mentions it to the overseer, and if there are no
+impediments, they have a cabin assigned to them." He described a scene
+of this kind, which I will endeavour to give verbatim. He said it
+occurred on his father's estate, some years before, and that he was
+standing by at the time, "although," he continued, "'tis done the same
+now in most instances." A negro approached where the overseer was
+standing, apparently, by his sidling manner, about to ask some favour,
+when the following colloquy ensued.
+
+_Overseer_.--Well, you black rascal, what do you stand grinning there
+for?
+
+_Negro_.--Please, mas'r, want Lucy for wife.
+
+_Overseer_.--Wife, you scoundrel, what do you want a wife for; be off
+with you, and mind your horses. (He was employed as a teamster on the
+estate.)
+
+_Negro_.--Oh, mas'r, I loves Lucy.
+
+_Overseer_.--And she loves you, I suppose. A fine taste she must have,
+indeed. Where are you going to live?
+
+_Negro_--Got room in No. 2 cabin, if mas'r please let 'um.
+
+_Overseer_.--Well, now listen; go along, and take her, but, you lazy
+dog, if you get into any scrapes, and don't work like live coals, I'll
+send her to the other estate (which was situated forty miles distant),
+and flay you alive into the bargain.
+
+The poor fellow, after thanking the overseer (not for his politeness,
+certainly), darted off to communicate the joyful intelligence to his
+affianced, making the welkin ring with his shouts. The gentleman who
+described this scene said that it was always the custom on his father's
+estate to give a gallon or two of whiskey for the attendant
+merry-making.
+
+After numerous stoppages, the train at length reached Charleston. The
+journey from Greensborough had been a tedious one; besides the annoyance
+of slow travelling, through the inefficient state of the line, which was
+so defective that the carriages frequently left the rails, the noisome
+effluvia arising from the swamps we had to pass through, which harbour
+innumerable alligators and other reptiles, had the most debilitating
+effect on the frame, which was increased by the extreme sultriness of
+the weather After leaving my ticket at the terminus, I disposed of my
+baggage by hiring a negro to carry it to my boarding-house, and slowly
+wended my way into the city. A spacious public square at the end of
+King-street, through which I had to pass to my _table d'hote_, presented
+an animated view, the citizens being assembled to celebrate the
+anniversary of the Independence conferred by Washington and his
+compatriots by the solemn declaration of the 4th July, 1776. Long
+tables, under gay awnings, to shield the company from the burning rays
+of the sun, which at the time were intense, groaned with every luxury
+the climate afforded; but the banquet was not furnished by this alone,
+for Cuba and some of the neighbouring islands, it was stated, had been
+ransacked for delicacies. Crowds of elegantly-dressed ladies (in general
+of very sallow look and languid air) and spirit-like children, with
+swarthy-looking men, many of whose visages bore evident traces of
+exposure to the ill effects of the climate and of dissipation, crowded
+the festive board. The negro attendants in dozens moved about with
+automatic order, as is characteristic of all the race on such occasions,
+for the negro is a "model waiter" at a banquet. Their snowy costumes
+contrasting strongly with their black visages and the jovial scene
+around. The merry peals of laughter, as some unlucky wight upset a dish,
+or scattered the sauce in everybody's face within reach, indicated
+lightness of heart, and merriment and conviviality seemed the order of
+the day.
+
+The imposing scene before me, after a long absence from social meetings
+in civilized life, was very cheering, and, had it not been for the
+inertia I felt at the time, arising from a fatiguing journey and the
+tertian ague, I should have felt disposed to participate in the day's
+enjoyment. Other considerations might, however, have prevented this: I
+was a stranger to all around, and knew that I should be either subjected
+to impertinent interrogations, or become the object of invidious
+remark--this, in my debilitated state of health, I felt anxious to
+avoid, as calculated to impede my restoration. My joining the assembled
+party might also have involved the chance of surveillance during my
+stay, which, before my departure for Europe, I intended should be rather
+protracted. I may have been mistaken in this view, but, from the
+character I had heard of the place, I felt justified in giving way to
+the suspicion.
+
+I was beguiled into the erroneous idea that a sense of happiness and
+security reigned in the assembled multitude, a notion quite fallacious,
+from attendant circumstances, as I shall directly explain. Troops were
+stationed at a guard-house in the vicinity, and the sentinels paced in
+front of the building, as if in preparation for, or in expectation of, a
+foe, affording a great contrast to the apparent security of the
+inhabitants assembled in the square. Before reaching Charleston, I had
+been apprised of the state of jeopardy the citizens were in from the
+possibility of a recurrence of those scenes of anarchy enacted at the
+insurrection of the slaves some time before--scenes which had filled
+every heart with dismay, and spread ruin and desolation on every side.
+From what I could glean of that fearful drama, the slaves in the
+surrounding districts, on a concerted signal from their confederates in
+Charleston, made a descent upon the city, and, rendered furious by long
+oppression, proceeded to fire it and massacre the inhabitants. No
+language can convey an accurate idea of the consternation of the white
+inhabitants, as it was described to me. The tocsin was sounded, the
+citizens assembled, armed _cap-a-pié_, and after much hard fighting,
+the rebellion was crushed, and large numbers of the insurgents were
+slain or arrested. Then came the bloody hand of what was impiously
+termed retributive justice. A court, or sort of drum-head court-martial,
+not worthy to be called a trial, condemned numbers of the slaves to
+death, and they were led out instantly to execution. My informant told
+me that many a brave, noble-hearted fellow was sacrificed, who, under
+happier circumstances, though in a cause not half so righteous, would
+have been extolled as a hero, and bowed down with honours. Many a humble
+hearth was made desolate, and, in the language quoted by my informant,
+"as in the days of the curse that descended on the people of the
+obdurate Pharaoh, every house mourned its dead." Still, there was a
+strong lurking suspicion that the _emeute_ of the negroes had only been
+temporarily suppressed, and awful forebodings of fire and of blood
+spread a gloom on the minds of all. This was the version given to me by
+a friend, of what he described as the most fearful rising amongst the
+negroes ever before known in the southern states of America.
+
+As I passed up the long range of tables, the health of the President of
+the Republic was responded to by the company. The cheers were deafening,
+and, what most surprised me was, that the negro waiters joined
+heartily, I may say frantically, in it, and danced about like mad
+creatures, waving their napkins, and shouting with energy. Some of the
+elder ones, I noticed, looked mournfully on, and were evidently not in a
+gay humour, seeming a prey to bitter reflections. Notwithstanding the
+curse of slavery, which, like a poisonous upas, taints the very air they
+breathe with the murdered remains of its victims, the white citizens of
+the south are extremely sensitive of their civil and political rights,
+and seem to regard the palladium of independence secured by their
+progenitors as an especial benefit conferred by the Deity for their good
+in particular. Actuated by this mock patriotism (for it is nothing
+less), the citizens of the south omit no opportunity of demonstrating
+the blessings they so undeservedly inherit, and which, if I am not
+mistaken, will, ere many years elapse, be wrested from them, amidst the
+terrible thunders of an oppressed and patient people, whose powers of
+endurance are indeed surprising.
+
+Leaving the square, I passed up King-street, at the top of which was my
+intended boarding-house. The shops in this fashionable resort are fitted
+out in good style, and the goods are of the best description. After
+sunset the streets are often lined with carriages. The city lies flat,
+like the surrounding country, and, owing to this, is insalubrious;
+stagnant water collects in the cellars of the houses, and engenders a
+poisonous vapour, which is a fertile source of those destructive
+epidemics, that, combined with other causes, are annually decimating the
+white population of the south of the American continent in all parts.
+
+At the top of King-street, facing you as you advance, is a large
+Protestant episcopal church. I went there to worship on the following
+Sunday, but was obliged to leave the building, there being, it was
+stated by the apparitor, no accommodation for strangers, a piece of
+illiberality that I considered very much in keeping with the
+slave-holding opinions of the worshippers who attend it. This want of
+politeness I was not, however, surprised at, for it is notorious, as has
+been before observed by an able writer, that, excepting the Church of
+Rome, "the members of the unestablished Church of England--the
+Protestant Episcopalian, are the most bigotted, sectarian, and
+illiberal, in the United States of America. Being fully persuaded," to
+follow the same writer, "that prelatical ordination and the three orders
+are indispensable to their profession, they are, like too many of their
+fellow professors in the mother country, deeply dyed with Laudean
+principles, or that love of formula in religion and grasping for power
+which has so conspicuously shown itself among the Oxford tractarians,
+and which, it is to be feared, is gradually undermining Protestant
+conformity, by gnawing at its very heart, in the colleges of Great
+Britain." Vital piety, or that deep sense of religious duty that impels
+men to avoid the devious paths of sin, and to live "near to God," is, I
+am inclined to believe (and I regret it, as a painful truth), by no
+means common in America. There are, however, many pastors who faithfully
+warn their flocks of the dangers of the world, and who strenuously
+advise their hearers to take warning lest they be over-captivated with
+the "Song of the Syrens." These, however, I must say, are chiefly in the
+free states, for I cannot regard southern ministers in any other light
+than pharisaical, while they continue openly (as is their constant
+practice) to support from their pulpits the institution that is the main
+stay of the southern states; I mean slavery. In my intercourse with
+serious individuals with whom I came in contact during my stay on the
+continent of America, the doctrines of Dr. Pusey and his confederates
+were often referred to; and although I believe "the Association for
+restoring the ancient powers of the Clergy, and the primary rites and
+usages of the Church," does not acknowledge the Protestant Episcopalians
+in America (owing, perhaps, chiefly to the invidious position the
+latter stand in with the state, and the little chance of their views
+being universally embraced by them, but partially, no doubt, to the
+evangelical principles of most of the ministers officiating in that
+Church), yet the subject has excited much interest there, and the Romish
+propensities of many pastors plainly indicate that inherent love of
+power that invariably, and, it may be said, necessarily, developes
+itself in hierarchical institutions--a propensity that ought to be
+closely watched by Protestant lay congregations, as being not only
+innovating and dangerous in its tendency, but calculated to foster that
+superstition which is at once the fundamental principle of the faith of
+the city of the seven hills, and the power of that triple-crowned
+monster, Popery.
+
+I afterwards went into a large Independent chapel in another part of the
+town, where I was more courteously treated. Here was a very eloquent and
+noted preacher, a Dr. Groyard, from Mobile. He was delivering a very
+eloquent harangue, interspersed with touches of pro-slavery,
+sentimentalism and rhetorical flourish, the former especially directed to
+the negroes in the gallery, when, suddenly, a cry of "Fire! fire!" was
+raised in the street. The learned Doctor stood as if electrified, and
+the instant after his hearers rushed pell-mell out of the chapel,
+amidst the shrieks of the females, and the consternation of the men,
+caused, without doubt, by a lurking suspicion of impending evil from the
+negroes which I have before referred to. On ascertaining that the alarm
+was caused by a house being on fire in the vicinity, the service was
+abruptly terminated.
+
+The following day I continued my perambulations; to the left of the
+episcopal church I have already mentioned, and surrounded by umbrageous
+trees in a park-like enclosure, is the Town-hall. I entered this
+building, where I found a bench of magistrates, the mayor of the city
+being amongst them, adjudicating on the cases brought before them. These
+consisted chiefly of negroes apprehended in the streets after nine
+o'clock the previous night; they were in all cases, except where their
+owners paid the fine, sentenced to receive from ten to twenty lashes,
+which were administered at once by the city gaoler, in a yard at the
+rear of a building, near which officers were in attendance for the
+purpose. I must mention, in explanation, that one of the laws passed
+directly after the insurrection, was to prohibit negroes, on any
+pretence, to be out after nine, p.m. At that hour, the city guard, armed
+with muskets and bayonets, patrolled the streets, and apprehended every
+negro, male or female, they found abroad. It was a stirring scene, when
+the drums beat at the guard-house in the public square I have before
+described, preparatory to the rounds of the soldiers, to witness the
+negroes scouring the streets in all directions, to get to their places
+of abode, many of them in great trepidation, uttering ejaculations of
+terror as they ran. This was an inexorable law, and punishment or fine
+was sure to follow its dereliction, no excuse being available, and as
+the owners seldom submitted to pay the fine, the slaves were compelled
+to take the consequences, which, in the language that consigned them to
+the cruel infliction, "consisted of from ten to twenty lashes, well laid
+on with a raw-hide," a murderous whip, which draws blood after the first
+few strokes, and is as torturing, I should imagine, as the Russian
+knout, certainly proving in many instances as fatal as that odious
+instrument. The crowning severity of the enactments I have referred to,
+remains, however, to be told. So heinous in a negro, is the crime of
+lifting his hand in opposition to a white man in South Carolina, that
+the law adjudges that the offending member shall be forfeited. This is,
+or was, quite as inexorable as the one I have before spoken of, and when
+in Charleston, I frequently, amongst the flocks of negroes passing and
+repassing, saw individuals with one hand only. Like the administration
+of miscalled justice on negroes in all slave-holding states in America,
+the process was summary; the offender was arrested, brought before the
+bench of sitting magistrates, and on the _ex parte_[A] statement of his
+accuser, condemned to mutilation, being at once marched out to the rear
+of the building and the hand lopped off on a block fixed there for the
+purpose. I noticed a block and axe myself in the yard of a building near
+the town-hall, and on looking at them closely, saw they were stained
+almost black, with what I have little hesitation in saying was human
+blood. My conductor, however, tried to divert my attention from the
+object, and knowing I was an Englishman, refused to enter on the
+subject.
+
+[FOOTNOTE A: The writer was assured, when in Charleston, that this was
+the case in five out of every six cases.]
+
+Another of the many cruel laws put in force after the _emeute_ of the
+negroes, was to prohibit any coloured person from walking on the
+pavements, and forcing all males to salute every white they met. These
+distinctions, although falling into disuse, are not even yet abolished,
+but still, with many others equally odious, disgrace the Carolinean
+statute book. I saw several negroes from the plantation districts,
+walking in the road instead of on the pavement, in accordance with this
+law, touching their hats to every white passer-by; they were
+consequently obliged to be continually lifting their hands to their
+heads, for they passed white people at every step. Although I believe
+no punishment is now enforced for the omission of this humiliating
+homage to colour, the men I have referred to were doubtless afraid to
+disregard the ceremony.
+
+A partiality exists in every part of America for music; indeed, so
+strongly is this developed, that in almost all the towns, and even in
+some hamlets in the western states, subscription bands are kept
+up--these play every evening, when the weather admits, in the centre of
+the public square, the citizens the while promenading round with their
+wives and families.
+
+But, although a decided penchant prevails for music, the preference is
+given by the mass to a few ordinary airs, calculated to inspire that
+love of country which every reminiscence of the struggle for
+independence calls forth. The favourite air is the so-called national
+one of "Hail, Columbia," although this is but second to the fantastic
+drollery of "Yankee Doodle;" the latter is vociferously called for at
+all places of amusement, and excites in the audience, at such places of
+resort, almost frantic sensations. This is the more remarkable, as it
+was originally composed by an Englishman, and, as it is so intimately
+connected with Americanism, I shall, perhaps, be excused for introducing
+here what may be termed its history.
+
+In the attacks made upon the French posts in America, in 1755, those
+against Niagara and Frontenac were made by Governor Shirley, of
+Massachusetts, and General Jackson, of New York. Their army during the
+summer lay on the eastern bank of the Hudson, a little south of Albany.
+Early in June, the troops of the eastern provinces began to pour in
+company after company, and such an assemblage never before thronged
+together on such an occasion. "It would have relaxed the gravity of an
+anchorite," says the historian, "to see the descendants of the Puritans
+marching through the streets of the ancient city, and taking their
+stations on the left of the British army--some with long coats, and
+others with no coats at all, and with colours as various as the rainbow;
+some with their hair cropped like the army of Cromwell, and others with
+wigs, the locks of which floated with grace round their shoulders. Their
+march, their accoutrements, and the whole arrangement of the troops,
+furnished matter of amusement to the British army. The music played the
+airs of two centuries ago; and the _tout ensemble_, upon the whole,
+exhibited a sight to the wondering strangers to which they had been
+unaccustomed."
+
+Among the club of wits that belonged to the British army, there was a
+Doctor Shackburg attached to the staff, who combined with his knowledge
+of surgery the skill and talent of a musician. To please the new-comers,
+he composed a tune, and, with much gravity, recommended it to the
+officers as one of the most celebrated airs of martial music. The joke
+took, to the no small amusement of the British. Brother Jonathan
+exclaimed, it was "nation fine;" and in a few days, nothing was heard in
+the provincial camp but the air of "Yankee Doodle."
+
+Little did the author, in his composition, then suppose, that an air,
+made for the purpose of levity and ridicule, should be marked for such
+high destinies. In twenty years from that time, the national march--now
+universally recognized by the patriots--inspired the heroes of Bunker's
+Hill; and, in less than thirty, Lord Cornwallis and his army marched
+into the American lines to the tune of "Yankee Doodle."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+  "Woe worth the hour when it is crime
+    To plead the poor dumb bondman's cause,
+  When all that makes the heart sublime,
+  The glorious throbs that conquer time,
+    Are traitors to our cruel laws."--LOWELL
+
+
+The general appearance of the majority of the coloured people in the
+streets of Charleston denoted abject fear and timidity, some of them as
+I passed looking with servile dread at me (as they did at almost every
+one who happened to pass), so that I could read in many of their looks a
+suspicion of interference, which, commiserating their condition as I
+did, was quite distressing.
+
+It is impossible to form a correct estimate of what the perpetuators of
+slavery have to expect, if once the coloured population obtain a
+dominant position. The acknowledged gradual depopulation of the whites
+in the slave states, through sickness, exhaustion of the land, and
+consequent emigration, united with other causes, there is no doubt will
+eventually result in a great preponderance of coloured people, who,
+aroused by the iniquitous treatment they undergo, will rise under some
+resolute leader, and redress their wrongs. I was quite struck to see in
+Charleston such a disproportion of the colours, and, without
+exaggerating, I can say, that almost if not quite three-fourths of those
+I met in the streets were, if not actually of the negro race, tinged in
+a greater or less degree with the hue.
+
+Pursuing my perambulations, I came to the slave and general cotton place
+of vendue, to the left of the General Post-office, which building is a
+very substantial edifice of stone. Here a dozen or twenty auctioneers
+were loudly holding forth to the assembled crowds, and cracking up their
+wares in New York style. The most indescribable scene of bustle and
+confusion prevailed, the whole street being covered with open bales and
+boxes of goods. In one part of the street was a slave warehouse, and
+advertisements were placarded outside of the particulars of the various
+lots to be offered for competition, and now on view. As the privilege of
+viewing in this instance was confined to those who possessed tickets, I
+did not apply for one, as I knew that the wish would be attributed to
+curiosity, and possibly a worse construction be put upon it, through my
+being a stranger in the place.
+
+Passing onwards through the assembled throng, I got into a more secluded
+part of the city, and came upon a large burial-ground, in which many of
+the monuments erected to the memory of the dead were of a very expensive
+description. One in particular attracted my notice; this, on inquiry of
+a gentlemanly-looking man, who, like myself, was inclined to "meditate
+among the tombs," I ascertained had been erected by the relatives of a
+planter, who had resided in an adjoining state, but who had several
+cotton plantations within ten miles of Charleston; these he occasionally
+visited, but in general confided to the care of an overseer, who lived
+with his family on one of them. The season anterior to his last visit
+had been a very unpropitious one, and he was much dissatisfied with the
+management. To prevent a recurrence of this loss, and, under the strong
+impression that the hands were not worked as they should be, he resolved
+to inspect the plantations himself, and administer some wholesome
+discipline in _propriâ personâ;_ for this purpose, he visited one of the
+plantations, intending afterwards to proceed to the others in rotation.
+It so happened that he arrived when not expected; and, finding his
+overseer absent, and many of the hands not as closely engaged as he
+wished, he became violently enraged. Summoning the overseer, he ordered
+all hands in front of the house to witness a punishment, and causing
+eight or ten of those whom he pointed out to be tied up at once and well
+whipped, stood by the while in uncontrollable anger to give directions.
+In the midst of the scene, and while urging greater severity, he was
+seized with a fit of apoplexy, which was of such a nature, that it at
+once closed his career, and he died instantaneously. Directly the man
+fell, the negroes collected round him and uttered cries and
+lamentations, and the poor wretch who was at the moment the victim of
+his brutality, on being untied, which was immediately done, joined in
+it. Notwithstanding that my companion had a decided leaning towards the
+extinction of slavery, (although he started various objections to its
+abolition,) I was quite inclined to believe his relation, having, when
+in Florida, met with a somewhat similar instance of the devotedness of
+the negro race, in an old woman who was bitterly bewailing the loss of
+her deceased mistress. The latter was an English lady, but not over kind
+to her, and reflected no credit on her countrywomen. The poor creature
+in touching strains enlarged upon her beauty and accomplishments, but
+when I questioned her as to her treatment of the negroes in general
+belonging to the estates, would say little on the subject, and shook
+her head; in it was plain that, like most females living in the south,
+she was a pampered worldling, entirely engrossed by principles of
+self-interest, and little regarding the welfare of her dependents, if
+not, as I have before observed, very severe towards them. She died
+prematurely, from the effects of one of those virulent fevers, that in
+southern latitudes are so often fatal to the inhabitants, especially to
+those who have been nurtured in Europe. Her encoffined remains were
+shipped on board a vessel, to be conveyed to England for burial, in
+accordance with her expressed wish. When the poor creature came to that
+part of her piteous tale, when, as she called her, her "beautiful angel
+of a mistress" was put in the coffin, and the estate hands were called
+in to take a last view of her (a custom in vogue there sometimes), she
+was overpowered with grief, and her utterance was so choked, that she
+could scarcely proceed.
+
+During my stay in Charleston, I became acquainted with a gentleman of
+colour, who followed a lucrative business as a dealer of some kind, and
+who had formerly been a slave. The introduction arose in rather a
+singular way, it being through a proposition made to open a school for
+the education of coloured children, in which I took an interest.
+
+Great opposition was offered to the scheme by the white rulers of the
+place, who declared the project illegal, the enactments passed
+subsequent and prior to the insurrection stringently forbidding it, or
+any attempt to impart secular knowledge to the slaves. Notwithstanding
+the violent threats used to prevent it, a meeting was however convened
+to be held at the house of the gentleman referred to, and which I
+resolved, though not unaccompanied with danger to my person, to take an
+active part in. I accordingly went to his home on the evening appointed;
+this was a spacious house, furnished in sumptuous style, with extensive
+premises adjoining, contiguous to the north end of the levee. I noticed
+that the walls were hung with good oil paintings gorgeously framed,
+principally family portraits, but the most prominent in position was
+that of the unfortunate Haytian chief, Toussaint L'Ouverture, whose
+cruel end, at the instigation of the vindictive Bonaparte, will for ever
+reflect shame on the French name as long as a sense of justice and love
+of virtue and probity exists in the bosom of mankind. Far be it from me
+to trample on the name of one whom retributive justice has consigned to
+the dust, but the cruelty of Napoleon towards this magnanimous prince,
+and his final barbarity in consigning him to a damp dungeon in a
+fastness amongst the Alps, where he perished in exile from his subjects
+and family after ten months' miserable endurance of the hardships
+wrongfully imposed on him, almost causes a feeling of exultation at the
+downfall of a despot, who, aiming at the sovereignty of the world,
+scrupled not to sacrifice virtue and good faith at the shrine of
+ambition. The fate of both chiefs was similar, for both perished in
+captivity--the one the victim, perhaps, of inordinate ambition, the
+other of unscrupulous avarice and envious malignity. The misfortunes of
+Toussaint L'Ouverture have indeed with justice been pronounced the
+"history of the negro race," for, in almost every instance where
+coloured men have pushed themselves above the common level, they have
+incurred the envy of white men, and, in too many instances, have been
+crushed by their overbearing tyranny.
+
+The meeting was conducted with religious decorum, most, if not all, of
+the coloured gentlemen present being members of the Wesleyan connection.
+I was pleased with the temperate spirit in which their wrongs were
+discussed; and, after drawing up the rules, forming a committee, and
+arranging other necessary preliminaries, the meeting broke up.
+
+On reaching my hotel on my return, I was at once waited upon by the
+landlord, who, in certainly a respectful manner, informed me that the
+interest I had the day before incautiously expressed regarding the
+school, had led to my being watched to the house where the meeting was
+held; and that, to avoid the unpleasantness which would result from my
+continuing to take any steps in the matter, and which might ensue, he
+said, from the suspicions excited, he strongly advised that I should the
+next day address a letter to the editor of the principal newspaper in
+the city, repudiating all connection with a movement calculated, he
+said, to disturb the public mind, and, perhaps, cause disturbance. This
+I refused to do, but told him I did not intend to figure prominently in
+the matter, and that my stay in the city would be very limited. He then
+related several instances of mob law, which had been enacted-within the
+twelve months preceding, which, he said, were quite necessary to
+maintain southern rights, and which he did not fail to let me know he
+fully concurred in. After this hint, conveyed, I must say, in a friendly
+spirit, whatever my private opinion was as to the occasion of it, I
+mingled, during the remainder of my stay, very little with the
+frequenters of his establishment--a policy which I considered necessary
+from personal considerations; and, owing to this cautious behaviour, I
+was not afterwards interfered with, though often eyed with suspicion.
+
+The school was opened during my stay, but continued so but a short
+time, the virulent conduct of the constables, supported by some of the
+citizens and the civil authorities, compelling its discontinuance. This
+is not to be wondered at, when it is remembered that the old statute law
+of South Carolina prohibits the education of negroes, bond or free,
+under a penalty of fine and imprisonment; and, although before the
+recent _emeute_ it was falling into disuse, that event revived its
+enforcement with ancient malignity.
+
+The free negro gentleman, at whose house the preliminaries for opening
+the school referred to were gone through, informed me, on a subsequent
+occasion, that the constant vexations and annoyances he was subjected
+to, owing to the prejudice in the minds of southern people regarding
+colour, would compel him to relinquish his business, and proceed either
+to Canada or to the free states. He deplored the alternative much, as he
+had been born and bred a slave in Carolina, and, by untiring assiduity,
+had saved money enough to emancipate himself and his wife; "In fact," he
+added, "I feel this is my country, and leaving it will come hard." He
+had a numerous family, which he maintained in great respectability, and
+his business being a profitable one made him more reluctant to abandon
+it and the advantages that otherwise would attend his continuance in
+Charleston. He hospitably entertained me at his home, and appeared
+highly gratified at meeting with a white man who felt disposed to regard
+him with equality.
+
+After dining at his house one day, he took me a ride round the suburbs
+of the city, which I noticed were flat and exceedingly uninteresting. We
+returned by way of the Marine Parade, which is certainly a _chef
+d'oeuvre_ of its kind. This is on the south side of the city, and
+commands a magnificent sea-view. It is raised far above the sea, and
+laid out with carriage-drives and paths for pedestrians. Far out,
+looking towards Cape Hatteras, is a fort on an island; this is always
+garrisoned by a detachment of U.S. troops, and of late years has been
+used as a receptacle for those daring chiefs among the Indians, who, by
+their indomitable courage, have been the terror of the United States
+frontier. Here that hero Oceola, chief of the Seminoles, died not long
+before, in captivity, from excessive grief, caused by the treachery of
+certain American officers, who, under a pretended truce, seized him and
+his attendant warriors. Below us in the bay we could see the fins of
+several sharks, ploughing the waves in search of prey; while the
+constant sailing to and fro of Cuba fruit-boats, laden with bananas,
+pawpaws, pine-apples, and every luxury that and contiguous islands
+afford, enlivened the scene, which altogether was one of extraordinary
+beauty.
+
+There was a large assemblage of ladies and gentlemen promenading, and,
+as I rode with my friend, I had some very furtive glances from the
+crowd, which were intended, no doubt, to remind me that my keeping such
+company was _infra dig_., if not open to suspicion. There was in truth
+no little hazard in riding about in public with a man against whose
+acquaintance I had a short time before been cautioned, and I felt my
+position rather an uncomfortable one.
+
+Had some of the young blood of Charleston been up, there is little doubt
+but that I must have left the place _sans ceremonie._ Possessed of a
+natural urbanity, or, what in elevated society amongst white people,
+would be termed true politeness, the manner of the well-bred negro is
+prepossessing. This was very remarkable in my coloured friend, who was
+well informed, and possessed a refinement and intelligence I had never
+before met with in any of his race. On the subject of enslavement he
+would at first venture few observations, confining himself to those
+inconveniences and annoyances that affected him individually; he,
+however, became, after a time, more communicative.
+
+On the whole, at first, I was not a little apprehensive that my
+coloured acquaintance was under the impression that my friendship was
+not sincere, although he did not say as much in his conversation; the
+impression, however, soon left me, after a further intimacy. I
+considered then, and do now, that the suspicion was quite excusable, the
+Jesuitical practices and underhand trickery descended to by the white
+population in the slave states, in order to ascertain how individuals
+stand affected, are so numerous, that the coloured people are obliged to
+be wary of those they either suspect, or of whom, being strangers, they
+know little.
+
+I remember well, whilst riding with him on the occasion I have already
+referred to, we drove past a white man on horseback, who (as is common
+in Charleston), was correcting his negro in the street. The poor fellow
+was writhing under the cruel infliction of a flagellation with a
+raw-hide, and rent the air with his cries. This only increased the rage
+of his master, who seemed to take delight in striking his face and ears.
+I eagerly watched the scene, and, as we passed, leaned over the back of
+the gig. My companion, fearing, I suppose, lest the sight might provoke
+in me some exclamation, and thus get us into notice, nudged me violently
+with his elbow, saying at the same time, hurriedly, "Don't heed, don't
+heed." My blood was getting hot, and but for my companion, my passion
+would, in all probability, have got the better of my discretion, and I
+should without remedy have been involved in a dispute, if not
+immediately apprehended. As we rode on, I adverted to this barefaced
+exhibition of tyranny in an open thoroughfare, which, I remarked, was
+sufficient proof of the iniquity of the system, in spite of the
+assertions made by the southerners to the contrary. In reply to this,
+all my companion remarked was, "Did you never see that done before?" My
+answer was, I had seen negroes cruelly treated on estates, and
+elsewhere, but that this scene was the more revolting from its being
+enacted in the open highway. Seeing that he was anxious to avoid the
+subject, and that the observations he had made were drawn from him by my
+remarks, I remained silent, and, wrapped in deep reflections on the
+outrage we had witnessed, at length reached his dwelling. The occurrence
+I suppose somewhat affected my spirits, for soon after we got into the
+drawing-room, no one else being present, my friend addressed me, no
+doubt observing my depression, nearly as follows. "Sir, you seem to have
+a tender compassion for my poor countrymen; would to God white men were
+all as feeling here. The system is an accursed one, but what can we do
+but bear it patiently? Every hand seems against us, and we dare not
+speak for ourselves." I told him I deeply sympathised with his
+oppressed countrymen, and lived in hope that before long the public mind
+in America would be aroused from its apathy, and the accumulated wrongs
+of the race be redressed. His only reply was, "God grant it, I hope so
+too."
+
+In Charleston there exist several charitable institutions, but these, I
+believe, with only one exception, are for the benefit of poor white
+people. The innate benevolence of the human heart is thus, in the midst
+of dire oppression, wont to hold its sway, notwithstanding the poisonous
+influences that surround. But the pro-slavery business neutralizes these
+would-be benefactors, and taints all their endeavours, under the cloak
+of benevolence, to remove the odium it so justly incurs. "Liberate your
+slaves, and then I will talk to you about religion and charity," were
+the emphatic words of an eminent northern divine in his correspondence
+with the committee of a benevolent institution in the south, some years
+ago, and the admonition speaks as forcibly now as it did then.
+
+As you walk the streets of Charleston, rows of greedy vultures, with
+sapient look, sit on the parapets of the houses, watching for offal.
+These birds are great blessings in warm climates, and in Carolina a fine
+of ten dollars is inflicted for wantonly destroying them. They appeared
+to be quite conscious of their privileges, and sailed down from the
+house-tops into the streets, where they stalked about, hardly caring to
+move out of the way of the horses and carriages passing. They were of an
+eagle-brown colour, and many of them appeared well conditioned, even to
+obesity. At night scores of dogs collect in the streets, and yelp and
+bark in the most annoying manner. This it is customary to remedy by a
+gun being fired from a window at the midnight interlopers, when they
+disperse in great terror. I should remark that this is a common nuisance
+in warm latitudes. Some of these animals live in the wilds, and, like
+jackals, steal into the towns at night to eke out a scanty subsistence.
+At first my rest was greatly disturbed by their noisy yelpings, but I
+soon became accustomed to the inconvenience, and thought little of it.
+
+The warmth of the climate induces great lassitude and indisposition to
+exertion, _alias_ indolence. I began to experience this soon after
+arriving in the south. This, which in England would be called laziness,
+is encouraged by the most trifling offices being performed by slaves.
+The females in particular give way to this inertness, and active women
+are seldom to be met with, the wives of men in affluent circumstances
+being in general like pampered children, and suffering dreadfully from
+_ennui_. On one occasion an English gentleman at Charleston, with whom I
+became acquainted, and whose hospitality I shall never forget, when
+conversing on the subject, addressed me thus: "Good, active wives are
+seldom to be met with in this state, amongst the natives; I may say,
+hardly ever; the females are nurtured in indolence, and in seeking what
+they term a settlement, look more to the man's means than the likelihood
+of living happily with him. There is no disguising it--the
+considera--with them is a _sine quâ non_. Few girls would refuse a man
+who possessed a goodly number of slaves, though they were sure his
+affections would be shared by some of the best-looking of the females
+amongst them, and his conduct towards the remainder that of a very
+demon." These sentiments I very soon ascertained to be in no way
+libellous. A southern wife, if she is prodigally furnished with dollars
+to "go shopping," apparently considers it no drawback to her happiness
+if some brilliant mulatto or quadroon woman ensnares her husband. Of
+course there are exceptions, but the patriarchal usage is so engrafted
+in society there, that it elicits little notice or comment. Nor, from
+what I gleaned, are the ladies themselves immaculate, as may be inferred
+from the occasional quadroon aspect of their progeny.
+
+The Jews are a very numerous and influential body in Charleston, and
+monopolize many of its corporate honours. They were described as very
+haughty and captious; this, however, is saying no more of the stock of
+Israel than is observable all over the world, hen they are in prosperous
+circumstances, although, when this is not the case, perhaps none of the
+human family are so abject and servile, not excepting slaves themselves.
+In process of time, these people bid fair to concentrate in themselves
+most of the wealth and influence of Charleston. If their perseverance
+(which is here indomitable) should attain this result, they will be in
+pretty much the same position there that Pharaoh occupied over their
+race in Egypt in olden time, and, if reports speak true, will wield the
+sceptre of authority over their captives in a somewhat similar style.
+Avarice is the besetting sin of the Israelite, and here his slaves are
+taxed beyond endurance. To exact the utmost from his labour is the
+constant aim, and I was informed that many of the slaves belonging to
+Jews were sent out, and compelled on the Saturday night to bring in a
+much larger sum than it was reasonably possible the poor creatures could
+earn, and if not successful, they were subjected to the most cruel
+treatment.
+
+Not long after my arrival in Charleston, I several times met a young
+coloured man, who was of so prepossessing an appearance, that I felt
+desirous to become acquainted with him, and, as I was at a loss to find
+my way to the residence of the mayor, a good opportunity one day
+offered, and I addressed him. He very courteously took me to the street
+in which the house was situated, and we talked on general topics as we
+went--in the course of which he stated, he was saving money for his
+ransom, and in two years intended to proceed to Montreal, in Canada. I
+could see, however, that the free manner in which we conversed attracted
+the attention of three or four individuals as we passed them--these
+would stop as if to satisfy their curiosity, some even took the trouble
+to watch us out of sight; looking back, I several times saw one more
+impertinent-looking than some others eyeing us intently, and once I
+fancied I saw him turn as if to overtake us. This curiosity I had often
+perceived before, but, as disagreeable results might follow, I
+invariably made a practice to take no notice of it when in the company
+of a coloured individual. A smile played upon the features of my dusky
+companion, as I turned to observe the inquisitive fellows I have
+referred to; perhaps I was taken for a negro-stealer, but, as I treated
+my companion with equality, I was most likely set down as one of those
+dangerous personages, who, through zeal in the cause of emancipation,
+sometimes penetrate, into the slave districts, and are accused (with
+what degree of justice I cannot tell) of infusing into the minds of the
+slaves discontented notions and agrarian principles.
+
+As I met, on the occasion I have just referred to, an individual who
+knew I had felt an interest in endeavouring to establish the school for
+the education of negro children, the result of which I have already
+mentioned, I was apprehensive that the _contretemps_ would have exposed
+me to the unpleasantness of at least being shunned afterwards as a man
+entertaining principles inimical to southern interests--and, however
+resolute I felt to pursue an independent course while I remained in
+Charleston, I could not shake off a fear I vaguely entertained of a
+public recognition by a deeply prejudiced and ignorant populace, who,
+once set on, do not hesitate to proceed to disagreeable extremes. This
+fear was enhanced in no little degree by the operation I had witnessed,
+of the tarring and feathering process practised by enraged citizens in
+the Missouri country, which I have before described.
+
+The most degrading phrase that can be applied in the south to those
+white individuals who sympathize in the wrongs inflicted on the African
+race, I soon found to be, that "he associates with niggers." Thus a
+kind-hearted individual at once "loses caste" among his fellow citizens
+and, invidious though it certainly is, many slave-owners are deterred
+by this consideration, blended with a politic regard for their own
+safety, from exercising that benevolence towards their dependents which
+they sincerely feel; placed, as it were, under a sort of social ban,
+such men artfully conceal their sentiments from the public, and, by a
+more lenient treatment of their own hands, quiet their consciences;
+while, at the same time, they blunt their sense of what is honest,
+upright, just, and manly. Instances have occasionally occurred where men
+of correct principles have so far succumbed to this sense of duty, as to
+liberate their slaves. These are, however, rare occurrences, and, when
+they do happen, are usually confined to men of sterling religious
+principles, who, like that great exception, the respectable class of
+people called Quakers, in America, refuse, from a conviction of the
+enormity of the evil, to recognize as members those who hold or traffic
+in slaves.
+
+It is through the influence of such men that the iniquities of the
+system become exposed to public view, and remedies are sometimes, in
+flagrant cases of cruelty, applied. The legislatures of the several
+slave states, however, have given such absolute dominion, by a rigorous
+code of laws, to the owner, that the greatest enormities may be
+committed almost with impunity, or at least with but a remote chance of
+justice having its legitimate sway.
+
+The mass of slave-owners are interested in concealing enormities
+committed by their fellows, and are backed by a venal press, which,
+whether bribed or not (and there is every reason to suspect that this is
+often the case), puts such a construction on _outrage_, by garbled
+_reports_, as to turn the tide of sympathy from the victim to the
+perpetrator. No editor, possessing the least leaven of anti-slavery
+principles, would be patronized; and it not infrequently happens that
+such men are mobbed and driven perforce to leave the slave, for the more
+northern or free, states. Here they stand a better chance, but, in many
+instances, the prejudice, it is said, follows their course, and southern
+influence occasions their bankruptcy or non-success.
+
+The practice, so common in the slave states, of the citizens
+congregating at the bars of hotels or cafés in the towns and cities to
+while away the time, renders attendance at such places the readiest
+means of ascertaining the state of the public mind on any engrossing
+subject, opinions being here freely discussed, not, however, without
+bias and anger; on the contrary, the practice is most sectarian, and
+frequently involves deadly feuds and personal encounters, these latter
+being of every-day occurrence. Ever since I had been in the southern
+states, my attention had been attracted to the swarms of well-dressed
+loungers at cafés and hotels. At first, like many other travellers, I
+was deluded by the notion that these idlers were men of independent
+means, but my mind was soon disabused of this fallacy. I ascertained
+that the greater portion of these belong to that numerous class in
+America known as sporting gentlemen; in plainer terms, gamblers. Some of
+these men had belonged to the higher walks of life; these were the more
+"retiring few" who (probably through a sense of shame not quite
+extinguished) felt rather disposed to shrink from than to attract
+attention. The majority of these idlers were impudent-looking braggarts,
+who, with jaunty air and coxcombical show of superiority, endeavoured to
+enforce their own opinions, and to silence those of every one else.
+
+There was also another class of frequenters at such places; this
+consisted of tradesmen who pass much of their time hanging about at such
+resorts, to the great detriment of their individual affairs; and,
+lastly, such travellers as might be stopping in the town, who, through
+_ennui_ and inveterate habit, had left their hotels, and sauntered "up
+town" (as they call gadding about), to hear the news of the day.
+
+Soon ascertaining that such places were the best, and, excepting the
+public prints, the only resort to ascertain the latest intelligence, and
+to collect information respecting the movements of the black
+population, and the company, however exceptionable, being termed there
+respectable, I adopted the plan, on several successive evenings, of
+quietly smoking a cigar and listening to passing observations and
+remarks. Some of these were disgusting enough; so much so, that I will
+not offend my readers by repeating them. Suffice it to say, that any
+individual possessing the slightest pretensions to the name of
+gentleman, in any hotel I had visited in England, on indulging in the
+indecorous language I heard at these places, would, by a very summary
+process, have met with ejectment, without ceremony. Here, however, a
+laxity of moral feeling prevails, that stifles all sense of propriety;
+and scurrility, obscene language, and filthy jests, of which the
+coloured population are, I suppose, per force of habit, the principal
+butts, form the chief attractions of such places of resort to their
+vitiated frequenters.
+
+In the course of these visits I was present at some angry altercations;
+one of these referred to the recent visit of an individual who was
+termed by the disputants an "incendiary abolitionist," and who, it
+appeared, had been detected in the act of distributing tracts, which had
+been published at Salem, in Massachusetts, exposing the disabilities the
+African race were labouring under. Extracts from one of these tracts
+were read, and appeared very much to increase the violence of the
+contending parties, one of whom insisted that the publication contained
+nothing but what might be read by every slave in the sacred Scriptures,
+and that, therefore, it could not be classed as dangerous, although he
+admitted that it contained notions of "human rights" that were
+calculated to imbue the mind of the "niggers" with unbecoming ideas.
+These sentiments did not at all accord with those of the company, and
+several expressions of doubt as to the soundness of the speaker's own
+pro-slavery principles, together with the increasing excitement, caused
+him to withdraw from the contest. His immediate antagonist, who was
+evidently the leading man on the occasion, enlarged on the danger
+attending the sufferance of such men at large in the slave states, and
+proceeded, with great volubility, to quote various passages from the
+Black Code to show that the Legislature had contemplated the intrusion
+of such pestilent fellows, and had, in fact, given full power to remedy
+the evil, if the citizens chose to exercise it; and went on to observe,
+that the rights of southern people were now-a-days invaded on every
+hand, and it behoved them to stand in their own defence, his advice, he
+said, was, if the municipal authorities let the fellow go, to form a
+committee of justice to adjudicate on the case, and if it was
+considered conducive to the public weal, to administer salutary
+punishment. This proposal was uproariously applauded, and four of the
+citizens present, with the last speaker for chairman, were named on the
+spot to watch the case. "And now," added this gentleman, "we'll have a
+gin sling round for success." I heard the day following that the
+individual who was the subject of the foregoing proceedings, was accused
+before the mayor, who dismissed the case with a caution, advising him to
+leave the city with all dispatch, to avoid disagreeable consequences.
+This the man, by the aid of a constable, managed to do, that
+functionary, no doubt for a consideration, taking him to the city
+prison, and locking him up until nightfall, when he was assisted to
+leave the place, disguised as a soldier. This, I was informed by a
+friend, to whom I afterwards related it, was one of those commotions
+that occur almost daily in southern towns and cities.
+
+Such lawless frequenters of hotels, taverns, and cafés, form a kind of
+social police, and scarcely a stranger visits the place without his
+motives for the visit being canvassed, and his business often exposed,
+much to his great annoyance and inconvenience.
+
+So accustomed do American travellers in the south appear, to this system
+of internal surveillance, that I several times noticed strangers at the
+hotel or café counters openly explaining the object of their visits, and
+if there is nothing to conceal, however annoying the alternative
+appears, I am convinced the policy is not had, a host of suspicions
+being silenced by such a course.
+
+In my travels on the whole route from New York to Charleston, I
+discovered a most unjustifiable and impertinent disposition to pry into
+the business of others. If I was questioned once, I am sure I was at
+least fifty times, by my fellow--travellers from time to time as to my
+motive for visiting America, and my intended proceedings. I found,
+however', that a certain reserve was an efficient remedy. Captain
+Waterton, of South American celebrity, as an ornithologist, and who
+visited North America in his travels, mentions that if you confide your
+affairs and intentions when questioned, the Americans reciprocate that
+confidence by relating their own. My own experience, however, did not
+corroborate this view of the case, for, though loquacious in the
+extreme, and gifted, so that to use a Yankee phrase, they would "talk a
+dog's hind-leg off," they are in general cautious not to divulge their
+secrets. To say the least of it, the habit of prying into the business
+of others, is one totally unbecoming a well-ordered state of society,
+which the American, speaking generally, is decidedly not. It is
+extremely annoying, from the unpleasant feeling it excites, that you are
+suspected if not watched (this applies forcibly to the slave districts);
+and it is a habit that has arisen purely from the incongruity of society
+at large on the American continent, and a want of that subdivision of
+class that exists in Europe.
+
+During my visits to the various hotels while I remained in Charleston,
+for the purpose of collecting information, I was several times
+interrogated in a barefaced manner by the visitors who frequent those
+places, as to my politics, and especially as to my principles in regard
+to the institution of slavery; now, as I was not unaware that my
+intimacy with the gentleman of colour, which I have already referred to,
+had got abroad, I was obliged to be extremely guarded in my replies on
+such occasions. It was on one of these that I felt myself in great
+hazard, for two individuals in the company were discussing with much
+energy, the question of amalgamation (that is, marriage, contracted
+between black and white men and women), and I was listening intently to
+their altercation, when suddenly one of them, eyeing me with malicious
+gaze, no doubt having noticed my attention to the colloquy, said,
+
+"Your opinion, stranger, on this subject; I guess you understand it
+torrably well, as you seem to be pretty hard on B----'s eldest
+daughter." This unexpected sally rather alarmed me, for the name he
+mentioned was that of my coloured friend I have before alluded to, and
+whose daughter I had only met once, and that at her father's house.
+
+I scarcely knew what to reply, but thought it best to put on a bold
+face, so facing the man, I thanked him with much irony for the inuendo,
+and said, it was a piece of impudence I thought very much like him from
+what I had overheard.
+
+This was said in a resolute tone, and the fellow quailed before it, his
+reply being, "Now stranger, don't get angry, I saw you the other day at
+B----'s house, and could not tell what to make of it, but I hope you
+don't think that I was in arnest."
+
+I replied to this, that I knew best what business I had at B----'s
+house, and that his plan was to mind his own business. I then left him,
+apparently highly indignant, but in fact glad to make my escape. Like
+bullies all the world over, the southern ones are cowards; there is,
+however, great danger here in embroiling yourself with such characters,
+the pistol and bowie knife being instantly resorted to if the quarrel
+becomes serious. I saw this braggart on several occasions afterwards,
+but he evidently kept aloof, and was disinclined to venture in the part
+of the room I occupied. I ascertained that he kept a dry goods store in
+King-street, and was a boisterous fellow, often involved in quarrels.
+
+The discussion on amalgamation, which is a very vexed one, was again
+introduced on a subsequent occasion; a planter from the north of the
+state having (as is sometimes the case) sold off everything he
+possessed, and removed to the State of Maine, taking with him a young
+quadroon woman, with the intention of making her his lawful wife, and
+living there retired. After the expression of a variety of opinions as
+to what this man deserved, some being of opinion that the subject ought
+to be mooted in the legislature at Washington--others, that his whole
+effects ought to be escheated, for the benefit of the public
+treasury--and by far the greater number that he ought to be summarily
+dealt with at the hands of the so-considered outraged citizens, which,
+in other language, meant "lynched,"--it was stated, by a very loquacious
+Yankee-looking fellow present, who made himself prominent in the
+discussion, that it was the opinion of the company, that any man
+marrying a woman with negro blood in her veins, should be hanged, as a
+traitor to southern interests and a bad citizen. This sentiment was
+loudly applauded, and, had the unfortunate subject of it been in
+Charleston or near it, he would, in all probability, have been called
+to account. To me it appeared remarkable, that men, who are always
+boasting of the well-ordered institutions of their country (slavery
+being a very important one, be it remembered), should be ever ready to
+set aside all law, and, as it were, by _ex parte_ evidence alone,
+inflict summary vengeance on the offender; I was, however, always of
+opinion, when amongst them, that four-fifths of the men would rejoice if
+all law were abrogated, and the passions of the people allowed to govern
+the country, thus constituting themselves judges in their own case, and
+trampling under foot every semblance of justice, equity, and common
+propriety. As it is, in many parts of the Union, the judges and
+magistrates are notoriously awed by the people, and the most perfidious
+wretches are suffered to escape the hands of justice. A full
+confirmation of this is to be found in the frequent outrages against law
+and order reported in the newspapers, and which there elicit little
+regard.
+
+Walking for a stroll, a day or two after, in the vicinity of the
+Marine-promenade, I saw a strange-looking cavalcade approaching. Two
+armed overseers were escorting five negroes, recently captured, to the
+city gaol. The poor creatures were so heavily shackled, that they could
+walk but slowly, and their brutal conductors kept urging them on,
+chiefly by coarse language and oaths, now and then accompanied by a
+severe stroke with a slave-whip carried by one of them. The recovered
+fugitives looked very dejected, and were, no doubt, brooding over the
+consequences of their conduct. The elder of the party, a stout fellow of
+about forty-five years old, of very sullen look, had a distinct brand on
+his forehead of the initials S.T.R. I afterwards inquired what these
+brand-marks signified, supposing, naturally, that they were the initials
+of the name of his present or former owner. My informant, who was a
+by-stander, stated that he was, no doubt, an incorrigibly bad fellow,
+and that the initials S.T.R. were often used in such cases. I inquired
+their signification, when, to my astonishment, he replied it might be,
+"Stop the rascal," and added that private signals were in constant use
+among the inland planters, as he called them, who, he said, suffered so
+much by their hands running away, that it was absolutely necessary to
+adopt a plan of the kind for security. He further stated, that such
+incorrigibles, when caught, were never allowed to leave the plantations,
+so that if they ventured abroad, they carried the warrant for their
+immediate arrest with them. "But," he went on, "people are beginning to
+dislike such severity, and a new code of regulations, backed by the
+Legislature, is much talked of by the innovators, as we call them, to
+prevent such practices." I have no doubt this man owned slaves himself.
+
+I said I thought myself that the policy of kindness would answer better
+than such severities, and it would be well if slave-holders generally
+were to try it.
+
+"Ah, stranger," he replied, "I see you don't understand things here,
+down south. Don't you know that people who are over kind get imposed on?
+This is specially the case with slaves; treat them well, and you'll soon
+find them running off, or complaining. The only way to manage niggers is
+to keep them down, then you can control them, but not else."
+
+It has been urged a thousand times in defence of the upholders of
+slavery in its various ramifications, that they are in reality, as a
+body, opposed to the system, and would readily conform to any change
+that would be sufficiently comprehensive to indemnify them from present
+and future loss. From conversations heard in South Carolina, and other
+slave districts, I am quite satisfied that this is a misrepresentation,
+and that the generality of proprietors regard any change as a dangerous
+innovation, and that, far from reluctantly following the occupation of
+traders in flesh and blood, it is quite congenial to the vitiated tastes
+of the greater portion of southern citizens, whose perverted notions of
+justice and propriety are clamorously expressed on the most trivial
+occasions. In whatever sphere of society amongst them you go, you find
+the subject of "protecting their rights" urged with impetuosity; the
+same rancorous feeling towards men of abolitionist sentiments, and the
+same deprecation of the slave race. To decry the negroes in public
+opinion is one of their constant rules of action, and if an individual
+attempts to assert their equal rights with mankind at large, he is
+considered as disaffected towards southern interests, and, if not openly
+threatened, as I have before observed in this work, is unceremoniously
+talked down.' It is thus often dangerous to broach the subject, and if
+an individual, more daring than people generally are when in the
+plague-infected latitudes of slavery, attempts to repudiate the views so
+unhesitatingly expressed by the pro-slavery advocates, that the negro
+race is but the connecting link between man and the brute creation, he
+is looked upon with disgust, and his society contemned. This overbearing
+conduct is so ingrained, that it shows itself on the most trifling
+occasions, in their intercourse with their fellow-citizens.
+
+Argumentative facts might be produced _ad infinitum_ to prove that the
+legal enactments for the government of the slave states of America have
+been framed so as to vest in the proprietor as much control over the
+lives and persons of those they hold in servitude as any animal in the
+category of plantation stock. This in my tour through that region of
+moral darkness and despair, the state of Louisiana, I had numberless
+opportunities of observing, which would not fail to convince the most
+sceptical; and if I have passed over many of these in the foregoing
+pages, it is because the incidents themselves (though proving that the
+slightest approach to independent action, or opposition to the depraved
+wills of their tyrannical superiors, is at once visited with
+consequences that make me shudder to reflect upon) were of too trivial a
+nature to interest the general reader. I will, however, copy here an
+extract from a paper published in Virginia, the _Richmond Times_ for
+August, 1852, which must, I think, tend to remove any doubts, if they
+exist in the mind of the reader, that the conclusions I have come to
+from personal observation are correct, and sufficient to prove that the
+despotic Nicholas of Russia himself does not exercise more absolute
+control over the lives and liberties of the degraded serfs he rules,
+than the slave-appropriators of America do over their victims.
+
+The newspaper in question is a highly popular one with the
+aristocratical slave-owners of Virginia, and the editor one of those
+champions of the unjust and iniquitous system who invariably meet with
+extensive patronage in every part of the southern states.
+
+"A FIELD-HAND SHOT.--A gentleman named Ball, overseer to Mr. Edward T.
+Taylor, finding it necessary to chastise a field-hand, attempted to do
+so in the field. The negro resisted, and made fight, and, being the
+stronger of the two, gave the overseer a beating, and then betook
+himself to the woods. Mr. Ball, as soon as he could do so, mounted his
+horse, and, proceeding to Mr. Taylor's residence, informed him of what
+had occurred. Taylor, in company with Ball, repaired to the corn-field,
+to which the negro had returned, and demanded to know the cause of his
+conduct. The negro replied that Ball attempted to flog him, and he would
+not submit to it. Taylor said he should, and ordered him to cross his
+hands, at the same time directing Ball to seize him. Ball did so, but
+perceiving the negro had attempted to draw a knife, told Mr. Taylor of
+it, who immediately sprang from his horse, and, drawing a pistol, shot
+the negro dead at his feet."
+
+The _Richmond Reporter_, a contemporary of the _Times_, commented on
+this impious affair as follows:--"Mr. Taylor did what every man who has
+the management of negroes ought to do; enforce obedience, or kill them."
+
+It is the practice of the inhabitants of Charleston, in common, I
+believe, with all owners of slaves in towns or cities in the slave
+states, who have not employment sufficient for them at home, or when the
+slave is a cripple, to send them out to seek their own maintenance. In
+such cases the slave is compelled to give an account of what he has
+earned during the week, at his owner's house, where he attends on
+Saturday evenings for the purpose. A fixed sum is generally demanded, in
+proportion to the average value of such labour at the time. I was
+informed that it frequently happens, that the master exacts the utmost
+the slave can earn, so that the miserable pittance left is scarcely
+sufficient to sustain nature; this, no doubt, accounts for the haggard,
+care-worn appearance of such labourers, for, with few exceptions, I
+found hands thus sent out, more miserably clad and less hale than the
+common run of slaves. On the other hand, if a slave is a good
+handicraftsman, he is able to earn more than his master demands; such
+instances are, however, rare. These are the men who, by dint of hard
+work and thrifty habits, accumulate sufficient eventually to obtain
+manumission. There is, in most cases, a strict eye kept on such hands,
+and if the boon is attained, it is in general by stealthy means.
+
+At my boarding-house in Charleston, I often saw negro laundresses who
+called for linen; one of these in particular, I noticed, seemed to be in
+habitual low spirits; on one occasion she appeared to be in unusual
+distress, in consequence of one of the boarders leaving the house in her
+debt. She said that her owner would certainly punish her if she did not
+make up the required sum, and where to procure it she could not tell. I
+was touched by her tale, and immediately opened a subscription amongst
+the boarders in the house, and succeeded in collecting a trifle over the
+amount she had lost; this I handed her, and she went on her way
+rejoicing.
+
+I was told by a Carolinian who lodged at this house, that the practice
+of sending out slaves to earn money in the way I have described, has
+been in vogue from time immemorial, and that it was such a profitable
+mode of realizing by slave labour, that it was followed more extensively
+in that state now than formerly.
+
+I will conclude this part of my narration, by quoting the words of a
+powerful writer on the subject of slavery as I have witnessed its
+operation in America.
+
+"Amongst the afflicting ills which the wickedness of man has established
+upon earth, the greatest beyond compare is slavery. Indeed, its
+consequences are so dreadful, the sins which it engenders are of such
+gigantic proportions, and all its accompaniments are so loathsome and
+hideous, that the minds of benevolent persons revolt from contemplating
+it, as offering a spectacle of crime and cruelty, too deep for a remedy,
+and too vast for sympathy. Slavery is an infinite evil, the calculations
+of its murders, its rapine, its barbarities, its deeds of lust and
+licentiousness, though authenticated by the most unquestionable
+authorities, would produce a total of horrors too great to be believed;
+and to narrate the history of these cruelties which have been
+perpetrated by American slave-masters within the last five years alone,
+would be to tell idle fables in the opinions of those who have not
+deeply studied the tragical subject. If we take the United States of
+America, where the outcry against slavery is greater than in any other
+country under heaven, and where we hear more of religion and revivalism,
+more of bustle and machinery of piety, a country setting itself up as a
+beacon of freedom; then does slavery amongst such a people appear
+transcendently wicked; a sin, which, in addition to its usual cruelty
+and selfishness, is in them loaded with hypocrisy and ingratitude. With
+hypocrisy, as it relates to their pretensions to liberty, and with
+ingratitude, as it relates to that God who gave them to be free. This,
+indeed, makes all the institutions of America, civil and religious,
+little better than a solemn mockery, a tragical jest for the passers-by
+of other nations, who, seeing two millions and a half of slaves held in
+fetters by vaunting freemen and ostentatious patriots, wag the head at
+the disgusting sight, and cry out deridingly to degraded America, 'The
+worm is spread under thee, and the worms cover thee.'"
+
+My original intention of settling in America having been frustrated by
+ill health and other causes, I embarked on board a fine barque bound for
+Liverpool, where, after a favourable run of three weeks, we arrived in
+safety. Nothing worth noting occurred on the passage, except a fracas
+between the captain and the first mate, whom the former had discovered
+to be ignorant of the art of navigation, and who had, it appeared, been
+engaged in a hurry on the eve of the vessel's departure from Charleston.
+
+One day, comparing the result of a solar observation with the mate, and
+finding him out in his calculations, the captain accused him, in great
+anger, of imposition, in offering his services as an efficient person to
+navigate the ship. On my endeavouring to pacify him, he turned to me, in
+a violent passion, and exclaimed, "This man, sir, is 400 miles out in
+his reckoning--and where would you and the ship be, do you think, if I
+were washed overboard!" this argument was too cogent to be combated, and
+so I interfered no more. He ordered the mate to go to the forecastle,
+and refused to admit him to the cabin during the remainder of the
+passage. The mate was much irritated at this treatment, and, after a
+violent altercation, one day rushed to his chest and brought up two
+pistols, one of which he presented in the face of the captain, daring
+him at the same time to utter another word. The captain, highly
+incensed, instantly descended the companion-way to the cabin, and
+shortly after appeared with a blunderbuss, which he proceeded to prime.
+I was in a terrible state of mind at this juncture, and fully expected a
+fearful tragedy; this, however, was averted by the interference of
+another passenger, who stood between the parties.
+
+A violent storm overtook us in doubling Cape Hatteras soon after we
+sailed, which, besides damaging the bulwarks of the vessel, tore some of
+the sails to shivers; our ship stood it, however, gallantly, and, after
+that occurrence, we had favourable weather the remainder of the voyage.
+
+I was awaked early in the morning of the twenty-first day we had been at
+sea, by a cry from the man at the helm, of "Great Ormes Head," and,
+hurrying on my clothes, I gained the deck. The high hills could be
+indistinctly seen through the morning haze, and the sight was
+accompanied with joyful feelings to all on board. This enthusiasm was
+even communicated to the captain himself, who, since the affair with the
+mate, had been very much disposed to be sullen and unfriendly.
+
+I never could form a correct estimate of this man's character, but it
+was very evident he wished to pass for a pious man. He was a native of
+the eastern state of Massachusetts, and told me he had a family there.
+As to religion, I believe he had none, though he was a Methodist by
+profession. I could often hear him praying audibly in his state-room on
+board, with much apparent feeling--but so little did these devotional
+fits aid him in curbing his wicked temper, that, even when engaged in
+this manner, he would, if anything extraordinary occurred on deck to
+disturb him, rush up the companion-way, and rate and swear at the
+sailors awfully.
+
+Soon after making Ormes Head, a pilot came on board, and, with a fair
+wind, we proceeded towards the river Mersey.
+
+After my wanderings in the slave-stricken regions of the south, and my
+escapes in Florida, the sight of the hospitable shores of my native
+country did more, I think, to renovate my injured health, than all the
+drastics of the most eminent physicians in the world; certain it is,
+that, from this time, I gradually recovered, and, by the blessing of
+the Great Giver of all good, have been fully restored to that greatest
+of sublunary benefits--vigorous health; a consummation I at one time
+almost despaired of.
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's An Englishman's Travels in America, by John Benwell
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10619 ***