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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Mirror of the Sea, by Joseph Conrad
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Mirror of the Sea
+ Memories and Impressions
+
+
+Author: Joseph Conrad
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 7, 2013 [eBook #1058]
+[This file was first posted on October 10, 1997]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE SEA***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1907 Methuen & Co. edition by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+
+
+
+
+ THE MIRROR OF THE SEA
+ MEMORIES AND IMPRESSIONS
+
+
+ BY
+ JOSEPH CONRAD
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ “ . . . for this miracle or this wonder
+ troubleth me right greatly.”
+
+ BOETHIUS DE CON: PHIL: B. IV., PROSE VI.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ THIRD EDITION
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ METHUEN & CO.
+ 36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
+ LONDON
+
+ * * * * *
+
+_First published_ _October_ _1906_
+_Second Edition_ _December_ _1906_
+_Third Edition_ _January_ _1907_
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ TO
+ KATHERINE SANDERSON
+
+ WHOSE WARM WELCOME AND GRACIOUS HOSPITALITY
+ EXTENDED TO THE FRIEND OF HER SON
+ CHEERED THE FIRST DARK DAYS OF MY PARTING WITH THE SEA
+ THESE PAGES ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
+
+
+
+
+TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+THE MIRROR OF THE SEA:— PAGE
+ LANDFALLS AND DEPARTURES I. 1
+ EMBLEMS OF HOPE IV. 17
+ THE FINE ART VII. 33
+ COBWEBS AND GOSSAMER X. 52
+ THE WEIGHT OF THE BURDEN XIII. 69
+ OVERDUE AND MISSING XVI. 86
+ THE GRIP OF THE LAND XX. 102
+ THE CHARACTER OF THE FOE XXII. 109
+ RULES OF EAST AND WEST XXV. 123
+ THE FAITHFUL RIVER XXX. 157
+ IN CAPTIVITY XXXIII. 180
+ INITIATION XXXV. 201
+ THE NURSERY OF THE CRAFT XXXVII. 233
+ THE _TREMOLINO_ XL. 244
+ THE HEROIC AGE XLVI. 289
+
+
+
+I.
+
+
+ “And shippes by the brinke comen and gon,
+ And in swich forme endure a day or two.”
+
+ _The Frankeleyn’s Tale_.
+
+LANDFALL and Departure mark the rhythmical swing of a seaman’s life and
+of a ship’s career. From land to land is the most concise definition of
+a ship’s earthly fate.
+
+A “Departure” is not what a vain people of landsmen may think. The term
+“Landfall” is more easily understood; you fall in with the land, and it
+is a matter of a quick eye and of a clear atmosphere. The Departure is
+not the ship’s going away from her port any more than the Landfall can be
+looked upon as the synonym of arrival. But there is this difference in
+the Departure: that the term does not imply so much a sea event as a
+definite act entailing a process—the precise observation of certain
+landmarks by means of the compass card.
+
+Your Landfall, be it a peculiarly-shaped mountain, a rocky headland, or a
+stretch of sand-dunes, you meet at first with a single glance. Further
+recognition will follow in due course; but essentially a Landfall, good
+or bad, is made and done with at the first cry of “Land ho!” The
+Departure is distinctly a ceremony of navigation. A ship may have left
+her port some time before; she may have been at sea, in the fullest sense
+of the phrase, for days; but, for all that, as long as the coast she was
+about to leave remained in sight, a southern-going ship of yesterday had
+not in the sailor’s sense begun the enterprise of a passage.
+
+The taking of Departure, if not the last sight of the land, is, perhaps,
+the last professional recognition of the land on the part of a sailor.
+It is the technical, as distinguished from the sentimental, “good-bye.”
+Henceforth he has done with the coast astern of his ship. It is a matter
+personal to the man. It is not the ship that takes her departure; the
+seaman takes his Departure by means of cross-bearings which fix the place
+of the first tiny pencil-cross on the white expanse of the track-chart,
+where the ship’s position at noon shall be marked by just such another
+tiny pencil cross for every day of her passage. And there may be sixty,
+eighty, any number of these crosses on the ship’s track from land to
+land. The greatest number in my experience was a hundred and thirty of
+such crosses from the pilot station at the Sand Heads in the Bay of
+Bengal to the Scilly’s light. A bad passage. . .
+
+A Departure, the last professional sight of land, is always good, or at
+least good enough. For, even if the weather be thick, it does not matter
+much to a ship having all the open sea before her bows. A Landfall may
+be good or bad. You encompass the earth with one particular spot of it
+in your eye. In all the devious tracings the course of a sailing-ship
+leaves upon the white paper of a chart she is always aiming for that one
+little spot—maybe a small island in the ocean, a single headland upon the
+long coast of a continent, a lighthouse on a bluff, or simply the peaked
+form of a mountain like an ant-heap afloat upon the waters. But if you
+have sighted it on the expected bearing, then that Landfall is good.
+Fogs, snowstorms, gales thick with clouds and rain—those are the enemies
+of good Landfalls.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+
+Some commanders of ships take their Departure from the home coast sadly,
+in a spirit of grief and discontent. They have a wife, children perhaps,
+some affection at any rate, or perhaps only some pet vice, that must be
+left behind for a year or more. I remember only one man who walked his
+deck with a springy step, and gave the first course of the passage in an
+elated voice. But he, as I learned afterwards, was leaving nothing
+behind him, except a welter of debts and threats of legal proceedings.
+
+On the other hand, I have known many captains who, directly their ship
+had left the narrow waters of the Channel, would disappear from the sight
+of their ship’s company altogether for some three days or more. They
+would take a long dive, as it were, into their state-room, only to emerge
+a few days afterwards with a more or less serene brow. Those were the
+men easy to get on with. Besides, such a complete retirement seemed to
+imply a satisfactory amount of trust in their officers, and to be trusted
+displeases no seaman worthy of the name.
+
+On my first voyage as chief mate with good Captain MacW— I remember that
+I felt quite flattered, and went blithely about my duties, myself a
+commander for all practical purposes. Still, whatever the greatness of
+my illusion, the fact remained that the real commander was there, backing
+up my self-confidence, though invisible to my eyes behind a maple-wood
+veneered cabin-door with a white china handle.
+
+That is the time, after your Departure is taken, when the spirit of your
+commander communes with you in a muffled voice, as if from the sanctum
+sanctorum of a temple; because, call her a temple or a “hell afloat”—as
+some ships have been called—the captain’s state-room is surely the august
+place in every vessel.
+
+The good MacW— would not even come out to his meals, and fed solitarily
+in his holy of holies from a tray covered with a white napkin. Our
+steward used to bend an ironic glance at the perfectly empty plates he
+was bringing out from there. This grief for his home, which overcomes so
+many married seamen, did not deprive Captain MacW— of his legitimate
+appetite. In fact, the steward would almost invariably come up to me,
+sitting in the captain’s chair at the head of the table, to say in a
+grave murmur, “The captain asks for one more slice of meat and two
+potatoes.” We, his officers, could hear him moving about in his berth,
+or lightly snoring, or fetching deep sighs, or splashing and blowing in
+his bath-room; and we made our reports to him through the keyhole, as it
+were. It was the crowning achievement of his amiable character that the
+answers we got were given in a quite mild and friendly tone. Some
+commanders in their periods of seclusion are constantly grumpy, and seem
+to resent the mere sound of your voice as an injury and an insult.
+
+But a grumpy recluse cannot worry his subordinates: whereas the man in
+whom the sense of duty is strong (or, perhaps, only the sense of
+self-importance), and who persists in airing on deck his moroseness all
+day—and perhaps half the night—becomes a grievous infliction. He walks
+the poop darting gloomy glances, as though he wished to poison the sea,
+and snaps your head off savagely whenever you happen to blunder within
+earshot. And these vagaries are the harder to bear patiently, as becomes
+a man and an officer, because no sailor is really good-tempered during
+the first few days of a voyage. There are regrets, memories, the
+instinctive longing for the departed idleness, the instinctive hate of
+all work. Besides, things have a knack of going wrong at the start,
+especially in the matter of irritating trifles. And there is the abiding
+thought of a whole year of more or less hard life before one, because
+there was hardly a southern-going voyage in the yesterday of the sea
+which meant anything less than a twelvemonth. Yes; it needed a few days
+after the taking of your departure for a ship’s company to shake down
+into their places, and for the soothing deep-water ship routine to
+establish its beneficent sway.
+
+It is a great doctor for sore hearts and sore heads, too, your ship’s
+routine, which I have seen soothe—at least for a time—the most turbulent
+of spirits. There is health in it, and peace, and satisfaction of the
+accomplished round; for each day of the ship’s life seems to close a
+circle within the wide ring of the sea horizon. It borrows a certain
+dignity of sameness from the majestic monotony of the sea. He who loves
+the sea loves also the ship’s routine.
+
+Nowhere else than upon the sea do the days, weeks and months fall away
+quicker into the past. They seem to be left astern as easily as the
+light air-bubbles in the swirls of the ship’s wake, and vanish into a
+great silence in which your ship moves on with a sort of magical effect.
+They pass away, the days, the weeks, the months. Nothing but a gale can
+disturb the orderly life of the ship; and the spell of unshaken monotony
+that seems to have fallen upon the very voices of her men is broken only
+by the near prospect of a Landfall.
+
+Then is the spirit of the ship’s commander stirred strongly again. But
+it is not moved to seek seclusion, and to remain, hidden and inert, shut
+up in a small cabin with the solace of a good bodily appetite. When
+about to make the land, the spirit of the ship’s commander is tormented
+by an unconquerable restlessness. It seems unable to abide for many
+seconds together in the holy of holies of the captain’s state-room; it
+will out on deck and gaze ahead, through straining eyes, as the appointed
+moment comes nearer. It is kept vigorously upon the stretch of excessive
+vigilance. Meantime the body of the ship’s commander is being enfeebled
+by want of appetite; at least, such is my experience, though “enfeebled”
+is perhaps not exactly the word. I might say, rather, that it is
+spiritualized by a disregard for food, sleep, and all the ordinary
+comforts, such as they are, of sea life. In one or two cases I have
+known that detachment from the grosser needs of existence remain
+regrettably incomplete in the matter of drink.
+
+But these two cases were, properly speaking, pathological cases, and the
+only two in all my sea experience. In one of these two instances of a
+craving for stimulants, developed from sheer anxiety, I cannot assert
+that the man’s seamanlike qualities were impaired in the least. It was a
+very anxious case, too, the land being made suddenly, close-to, on a
+wrong bearing, in thick weather, and during a fresh onshore gale. Going
+below to speak to him soon after, I was unlucky enough to catch my
+captain in the very act of hasty cork-drawing. The sight, I may say,
+gave me an awful scare. I was well aware of the morbidly sensitive
+nature of the man. Fortunately, I managed to draw back unseen, and,
+taking care to stamp heavily with my sea-boots at the foot of the cabin
+stairs, I made my second entry. But for this unexpected glimpse, no act
+of his during the next twenty-four hours could have given me the
+slightest suspicion that all was not well with his nerve.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+
+Quite another case, and having nothing to do with drink, was that of poor
+Captain B—. He used to suffer from sick headaches, in his young days,
+every time he was approaching a coast. Well over fifty years of age when
+I knew him, short, stout, dignified, perhaps a little pompous, he was a
+man of a singularly well-informed mind, the least sailor-like in outward
+aspect, but certainly one of the best seamen whom it has been my good
+luck to serve under. He was a Plymouth man, I think, the son of a
+country doctor, and both his elder boys were studying medicine. He
+commanded a big London ship, fairly well known in her day. I thought no
+end of him, and that is why I remember with a peculiar satisfaction the
+last words he spoke to me on board his ship after an eighteen months’
+voyage. It was in the dock in Dundee, where we had brought a full cargo
+of jute from Calcutta. We had been paid off that morning, and I had come
+on board to take my sea-chest away and to say good-bye. In his slightly
+lofty but courteous way he inquired what were my plans. I replied that I
+intended leaving for London by the afternoon train, and thought of going
+up for examination to get my master’s certificate. I had just enough
+service for that. He commended me for not wasting my time, with such an
+evident interest in my case that I was quite surprised; then, rising from
+his chair, he said:
+
+“Have you a ship in view after you have passed?”
+
+I answered that I had nothing whatever in view.
+
+He shook hands with me, and pronounced the memorable words:
+
+“If you happen to be in want of employment, remember that as long as I
+have a ship you have a ship, too.”
+
+In the way of compliment there is nothing to beat this from a ship’s
+captain to his second mate at the end of a voyage, when the work is over
+and the subordinate is done with. And there is a pathos in that memory,
+for the poor fellow never went to sea again after all. He was already
+ailing when we passed St. Helena; was laid up for a time when we were off
+the Western Islands, but got out of bed to make his Landfall. He managed
+to keep up on deck as far as the Downs, where, giving his orders in an
+exhausted voice, he anchored for a few hours to send a wire to his wife
+and take aboard a North Sea pilot to help him sail the ship up the east
+coast. He had not felt equal to the task by himself, for it is the sort
+of thing that keeps a deep-water man on his feet pretty well night and
+day.
+
+When we arrived in Dundee, Mrs. B— was already there, waiting to take him
+home. We travelled up to London by the same train; but by the time I had
+managed to get through with my examination the ship had sailed on her
+next voyage without him, and, instead of joining her again, I went by
+request to see my old commander in his home. This is the only one of my
+captains I have ever visited in that way. He was out of bed by then,
+“quite convalescent,” as he declared, making a few tottering steps to
+meet me at the sitting-room door. Evidently he was reluctant to take his
+final cross-bearings of this earth for a Departure on the only voyage to
+an unknown destination a sailor ever undertakes. And it was all very
+nice—the large, sunny room; his deep, easy-chair in a bow window, with
+pillows and a footstool; the quiet, watchful care of the elderly, gentle
+woman who had borne him five children, and had not, perhaps, lived with
+him more than five full years out of the thirty or so of their married
+life. There was also another woman there in a plain black dress, quite
+gray-haired, sitting very erect on her chair with some sewing, from which
+she snatched side-glances in his direction, and uttering not a single
+word during all the time of my call. Even when, in due course, I carried
+over to her a cup of tea, she only nodded at me silently, with the
+faintest ghost of a smile on her tight-set lips. I imagine she must have
+been a maiden sister of Mrs. B— come to help nurse her brother-in-law.
+His youngest boy, a late-comer, a great cricketer it seemed, twelve years
+old or thereabouts, chattered enthusiastically of the exploits of W. G.
+Grace. And I remember his eldest son, too, a newly-fledged doctor, who
+took me out to smoke in the garden, and, shaking his head with
+professional gravity, but with genuine concern, muttered: “Yes, but he
+doesn’t get back his appetite. I don’t like that—I don’t like that at
+all.” The last sight of Captain B— I had was as he nodded his head to me
+out of the bow window when I turned round to close the front gate.
+
+It was a distinct and complete impression, something that I don’t know
+whether to call a Landfall or a Departure. Certainly he had gazed at
+times very fixedly before him with the Landfall’s vigilant look, this
+sea-captain seated incongruously in a deep-backed chair. He had not then
+talked to me of employment, of ships, of being ready to take another
+command; but he had discoursed of his early days, in the abundant but
+thin flow of a wilful invalid’s talk. The women looked worried, but sat
+still, and I learned more of him in that interview than in the whole
+eighteen months we had sailed together. It appeared he had “served his
+time” in the copper-ore trade, the famous copper-ore trade of old days
+between Swansea and the Chilian coast, coal out and ore in, deep-loaded
+both ways, as if in wanton defiance of the great Cape Horn seas—a work,
+this, for staunch ships, and a great school of staunchness for
+West-Country seamen. A whole fleet of copper-bottomed barques, as strong
+in rib and planking, as well-found in gear, as ever was sent upon the
+seas, manned by hardy crews and commanded by young masters, was engaged
+in that now long defunct trade. “That was the school I was trained in,”
+he said to me almost boastfully, lying back amongst his pillows with a
+rug over his legs. And it was in that trade that he obtained his first
+command at a very early age. It was then that he mentioned to me how, as
+a young commander, he was always ill for a few days before making land
+after a long passage. But this sort of sickness used to pass off with
+the first sight of a familiar landmark. Afterwards, he added, as he grew
+older, all that nervousness wore off completely; and I observed his weary
+eyes gaze steadily ahead, as if there had been nothing between him and
+the straight line of sea and sky, where whatever a seaman is looking for
+is first bound to appear. But I have also seen his eyes rest fondly upon
+the faces in the room, upon the pictures on the wall, upon all the
+familiar objects of that home, whose abiding and clear image must have
+flashed often on his memory in times of stress and anxiety at sea. Was
+he looking out for a strange Landfall, or taking with an untroubled mind
+the bearings for his last Departure?
+
+It is hard to say; for in that voyage from which no man returns Landfall
+and Departure are instantaneous, merging together into one moment of
+supreme and final attention. Certainly I do not remember observing any
+sign of faltering in the set expression of his wasted face, no hint of
+the nervous anxiety of a young commander about to make land on an
+uncharted shore. He had had too much experience of Departures and
+Landfalls! And had he not “served his time” in the famous copper-ore
+trade out of the Bristol Channel, the work of the staunchest ships
+afloat, and the school of staunch seamen?
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+
+BEFORE an anchor can ever be raised, it must be let go; and this
+perfectly obvious truism brings me at once to the subject of the
+degradation of the sea language in the daily press of this country.
+
+Your journalist, whether he takes charge of a ship or a fleet, almost
+invariably “casts” his anchor. Now, an anchor is never cast, and to take
+a liberty with technical language is a crime against the clearness,
+precision, and beauty of perfected speech.
+
+An anchor is a forged piece of iron, admirably adapted to its end, and
+technical language is an instrument wrought into perfection by ages of
+experience, a flawless thing for its purpose. An anchor of yesterday
+(because nowadays there are contrivances like mushrooms and things like
+claws, of no particular expression or shape—just hooks)—an anchor of
+yesterday is in its way a most efficient instrument. To its perfection
+its size bears witness, for there is no other appliance so small for the
+great work it has to do. Look at the anchors hanging from the cat-heads
+of a big ship! How tiny they are in proportion to the great size of the
+hull! Were they made of gold they would look like trinkets, like
+ornamental toys, no bigger in proportion than a jewelled drop in a
+woman’s ear. And yet upon them will depend, more than once, the very
+life of the ship.
+
+An anchor is forged and fashioned for faithfulness; give it ground that
+it can bite, and it will hold till the cable parts, and then, whatever
+may afterwards befall its ship, that anchor is “lost.” The honest, rough
+piece of iron, so simple in appearance, has more parts than the human
+body has limbs: the ring, the stock, the crown, the flukes, the palms,
+the shank. All this, according to the journalist, is “cast” when a ship
+arriving at an anchorage is brought up.
+
+This insistence in using the odious word arises from the fact that a
+particularly benighted landsman must imagine the act of anchoring as a
+process of throwing something overboard, whereas the anchor ready for its
+work is already overboard, and is not thrown over, but simply allowed to
+fall. It hangs from the ship’s side at the end of a heavy, projecting
+timber called the cat-head, in the bight of a short, thick chain whose
+end link is suddenly released by a blow from a top-maul or the pull of a
+lever when the order is given. And the order is not “Heave over!” as the
+paragraphist seems to imagine, but “Let go!”
+
+As a matter of fact, nothing is ever cast in that sense on board ship but
+the lead, of which a cast is taken to search the depth of water on which
+she floats. A lashed boat, a spare spar, a cask or what not secured
+about the decks, is “cast adrift” when it is untied. Also the ship
+herself is “cast to port or starboard” when getting under way. She,
+however, never “casts” her anchor.
+
+To speak with severe technicality, a ship or a fleet is “brought up”—the
+complementary words unpronounced and unwritten being, of course, “to an
+anchor.” Less technically, but not less correctly, the word “anchored,”
+with its characteristic appearance and resolute sound, ought to be good
+enough for the newspapers of the greatest maritime country in the world.
+“The fleet anchored at Spithead”: can anyone want a better sentence for
+brevity and seamanlike ring? But the “cast-anchor” trick, with its
+affectation of being a sea-phrase—for why not write just as well “threw
+anchor,” “flung anchor,” or “shied anchor”?—is intolerably odious to a
+sailor’s ear. I remember a coasting pilot of my early acquaintance (he
+used to read the papers assiduously) who, to define the utmost degree of
+lubberliness in a landsman, used to say, “He’s one of them poor,
+miserable ‘cast-anchor’ devils.”
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+
+From first to last the seaman’s thoughts are very much concerned with his
+anchors. It is not so much that the anchor is a symbol of hope as that
+it is the heaviest object that he has to handle on board his ship at sea
+in the usual routine of his duties. The beginning and the end of every
+passage are marked distinctly by work about the ship’s anchors. A vessel
+in the Channel has her anchors always ready, her cables shackled on, and
+the land almost always in sight. The anchor and the land are
+indissolubly connected in a sailor’s thoughts. But directly she is clear
+of the narrow seas, heading out into the world with nothing solid to
+speak of between her and the South Pole, the anchors are got in and the
+cables disappear from the deck. But the anchors do not disappear.
+Technically speaking, they are “secured in-board”; and, on the forecastle
+head, lashed down to ring-bolts with ropes and chains, under the
+straining sheets of the head-sails, they look very idle and as if asleep.
+Thus bound, but carefully looked after, inert and powerful, those emblems
+of hope make company for the look-out man in the night watches; and so
+the days glide by, with a long rest for those characteristically shaped
+pieces of iron, reposing forward, visible from almost every part of the
+ship’s deck, waiting for their work on the other side of the world
+somewhere, while the ship carries them on with a great rush and splutter
+of foam underneath, and the sprays of the open sea rust their heavy
+limbs.
+
+The first approach to the land, as yet invisible to the crew’s eyes, is
+announced by the brisk order of the chief mate to the boatswain: “We will
+get the anchors over this afternoon” or “first thing to-morrow morning,”
+as the case may be. For the chief mate is the keeper of the ship’s
+anchors and the guardian of her cable. There are good ships and bad
+ships, comfortable ships and ships where, from first day to last of the
+voyage, there is no rest for a chief mate’s body and soul. And ships are
+what men make them: this is a pronouncement of sailor wisdom, and, no
+doubt, in the main it is true.
+
+However, there are ships where, as an old grizzled mate once told me,
+“nothing ever seems to go right!” And, looking from the poop where we
+both stood (I had paid him a neighbourly call in dock), he added: “She’s
+one of them.” He glanced up at my face, which expressed a proper
+professional sympathy, and set me right in my natural surmise: “Oh no;
+the old man’s right enough. He never interferes. Anything that’s done
+in a seamanlike way is good enough for him. And yet, somehow, nothing
+ever seems to go right in this ship. I tell you what: she is naturally
+unhandy.”
+
+The “old man,” of course, was his captain, who just then came on deck in
+a silk hat and brown overcoat, and, with a civil nod to us, went ashore.
+He was certainly not more than thirty, and the elderly mate, with a
+murmur to me of “That’s my old man,” proceeded to give instances of the
+natural unhandiness of the ship in a sort of deprecatory tone, as if to
+say, “You mustn’t think I bear a grudge against her for that.”
+
+The instances do not matter. The point is that there are ships where
+things _do_ go wrong; but whatever the ship—good or bad, lucky or
+unlucky—it is in the forepart of her that her chief mate feels most at
+home. It is emphatically _his_ end of the ship, though, of course, he is
+the executive supervisor of the whole. There are _his_ anchors, _his_
+headgear, his foremast, his station for manoeuvring when the captain is
+in charge. And there, too, live the men, the ship’s hands, whom it is
+his duty to keep employed, fair weather or foul, for the ship’s welfare.
+It is the chief mate, the only figure of the ship’s afterguard, who comes
+bustling forward at the cry of “All hands on deck!” He is the satrap of
+that province in the autocratic realm of the ship, and more personally
+responsible for anything that may happen there.
+
+There, too, on the approach to the land, assisted by the boatswain and
+the carpenter, he “gets the anchors over” with the men of his own watch,
+whom he knows better than the others. There he sees the cable ranged,
+the windlass disconnected, the compressors opened; and there, after
+giving his own last order, “Stand clear of the cable!” he waits
+attentive, in a silent ship that forges slowly ahead towards her
+picked-out berth, for the sharp shout from aft, “Let go!” Instantly
+bending over, he sees the trusty iron fall with a heavy plunge under his
+eyes, which watch and note whether it has gone clear.
+
+For the anchor “to go clear” means to go clear of its own chain. Your
+anchor must drop from the bow of your ship with no turn of cable on any
+of its limbs, else you would be riding to a foul anchor. Unless the pull
+of the cable is fair on the ring, no anchor can be trusted even on the
+best of holding ground. In time of stress it is bound to drag, for
+implements and men must be treated fairly to give you the “virtue” which
+is in them. The anchor is an emblem of hope, but a foul anchor is worse
+than the most fallacious of false hopes that ever lured men or nations
+into a sense of security. And the sense of security, even the most
+warranted, is a bad councillor. It is the sense which, like that
+exaggerated feeling of well-being ominous of the coming on of madness,
+precedes the swift fall of disaster. A seaman labouring under an undue
+sense of security becomes at once worth hardly half his salt. Therefore,
+of all my chief officers, the one I trusted most was a man called B—. He
+had a red moustache, a lean face, also red, and an uneasy eye. He was
+worth all his salt.
+
+On examining now, after many years, the residue of the feeling which was
+the outcome of the contact of our personalities, I discover, without much
+surprise, a certain flavour of dislike. Upon the whole, I think he was
+one of the most uncomfortable shipmates possible for a young commander.
+If it is permissible to criticise the absent, I should say he had a
+little too much of the sense of insecurity which is so invaluable in a
+seaman. He had an extremely disturbing air of being everlastingly ready
+(even when seated at table at my right hand before a plate of salt beef)
+to grapple with some impending calamity. I must hasten to add that he
+had also the other qualification necessary to make a trustworthy
+seaman—that of an absolute confidence in himself. What was really wrong
+with him was that he had these qualities in an unrestful degree. His
+eternally watchful demeanour, his jerky, nervous talk, even his, as it
+were, determined silences, seemed to imply—and, I believe, they did
+imply—that to his mind the ship was never safe in my hands. Such was the
+man who looked after the anchors of a less than five-hundred-ton barque,
+my first command, now gone from the face of the earth, but sure of a
+tenderly remembered existence as long as I live. No anchor could have
+gone down foul under Mr. B—’s piercing eye. It was good for one to be
+sure of that when, in an open roadstead, one heard in the cabin the wind
+pipe up; but still, there were moments when I detested Mr. B—
+exceedingly. From the way he used to glare sometimes, I fancy that more
+than once he paid me back with interest. It so happened that we both
+loved the little barque very much. And it was just the defect of Mr.
+B—’s inestimable qualities that he would never persuade himself to
+believe that the ship was safe in my hands. To begin with, he was more
+than five years older than myself at a time of life when five years
+really do count, I being twenty-nine and he thirty-four; then, on our
+first leaving port (I don’t see why I should make a secret of the fact
+that it was Bangkok), a bit of manoeuvring of mine amongst the islands of
+the Gulf of Siam had given him an unforgettable scare. Ever since then
+he had nursed in secret a bitter idea of my utter recklessness. But upon
+the whole, and unless the grip of a man’s hand at parting means nothing
+whatever, I conclude that we did like each other at the end of two years
+and three months well enough.
+
+The bond between us was the ship; and therein a ship, though she has
+female attributes and is loved very unreasonably, is different from a
+woman. That I should have been tremendously smitten with my first
+command is nothing to wonder at, but I suppose I must admit that Mr. B—’s
+sentiment was of a higher order. Each of us, of course, was extremely
+anxious about the good appearance of the beloved object; and, though I
+was the one to glean compliments ashore, B— had the more intimate pride
+of feeling, resembling that of a devoted handmaiden. And that sort of
+faithful and proud devotion went so far as to make him go about flicking
+the dust off the varnished teak-wood rail of the little craft with a silk
+pocket-handkerchief—a present from Mrs. B—, I believe.
+
+That was the effect of his love for the barque. The effect of his
+admirable lack of the sense of security once went so far as to make him
+remark to me: “Well, sir, you _are_ a lucky man!”
+
+It was said in a tone full of significance, but not exactly offensive,
+and it was, I suppose, my innate tact that prevented my asking, “What on
+earth do you mean by that?”
+
+Later on his meaning was illustrated more fully on a dark night in a
+tight corner during a dead on-shore gale. I had called him up on deck to
+help me consider our extremely unpleasant situation. There was not much
+time for deep thinking, and his summing-up was: “It looks pretty bad,
+whichever we try; but, then, sir, you always do get out of a mess
+somehow.”
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+
+It is difficult to disconnect the idea of ships’ anchors from the idea of
+the ship’s chief mate—the man who sees them go down clear and come up
+sometimes foul; because not even the most unremitting care can always
+prevent a ship, swinging to winds and tide, from taking an awkward turn
+of the cable round stock or fluke. Then the business of “getting the
+anchor” and securing it afterwards is unduly prolonged, and made a
+weariness to the chief mate. He is the man who watches the growth of the
+cable—a sailor’s phrase which has all the force, precision, and imagery
+of technical language that, created by simple men with keen eyes for the
+real aspect of the things they see in their trade, achieves the just
+expression seizing upon the essential, which is the ambition of the
+artist in words. Therefore the sailor will never say, “cast anchor,” and
+the ship-master aft will hail his chief mate on the forecastle in
+impressionistic phrase: “How does the cable grow?” Because “grow” is the
+right word for the long drift of a cable emerging aslant under the
+strain, taut as a bow-string above the water. And it is the voice of the
+keeper of the ship’s anchors that will answer: “Grows right ahead, sir,”
+or “Broad on the bow,” or whatever concise and deferential shout will fit
+the case.
+
+There is no order more noisily given or taken up with lustier shouts on
+board a homeward-bound merchant ship than the command, “Man the
+windlass!” The rush of expectant men out of the forecastle, the
+snatching of hand-spikes, the tramp of feet, the clink of the pawls, make
+a stirring accompaniment to a plaintive up-anchor song with a roaring
+chorus; and this burst of noisy activity from a whole ship’s crew seems
+like a voiceful awakening of the ship herself, till then, in the
+picturesque phrase of Dutch seamen, “lying asleep upon her iron.”
+
+For a ship with her sails furled on her squared yards, and reflected from
+truck to water-line in the smooth gleaming sheet of a landlocked harbour,
+seems, indeed, to a seaman’s eye the most perfect picture of slumbering
+repose. The getting of your anchor was a noisy operation on board a
+merchant ship of yesterday—an inspiring, joyous noise, as if, with the
+emblem of hope, the ship’s company expected to drag up out of the depths,
+each man all his personal hopes into the reach of a securing hand—the
+hope of home, the hope of rest, of liberty, of dissipation, of hard
+pleasure, following the hard endurance of many days between sky and
+water. And this noisiness, this exultation at the moment of the ship’s
+departure, make a tremendous contrast to the silent moments of her
+arrival in a foreign roadstead—the silent moments when, stripped of her
+sails, she forges ahead to her chosen berth, the loose canvas fluttering
+softly in the gear above the heads of the men standing still upon her
+decks, the master gazing intently forward from the break of the poop.
+Gradually she loses her way, hardly moving, with the three figures on her
+forecastle waiting attentively about the cat-head for the last order of,
+perhaps, full ninety days at sea: “Let go!”
+
+This is the final word of a ship’s ended journey, the closing word of her
+toil and of her achievement. In a life whose worth is told out in
+passages from port to port, the splash of the anchor’s fall and the
+thunderous rumbling of the chain are like the closing of a distinct
+period, of which she seems conscious with a slight deep shudder of all
+her frame. By so much is she nearer to her appointed death, for neither
+years nor voyages can go on for ever. It is to her like the striking of
+a clock, and in the pause which follows she seems to take count of the
+passing time.
+
+This is the last important order; the others are mere routine directions.
+Once more the master is heard: “Give her forty-five fathom to the water’s
+edge,” and then he, too, is done for a time. For days he leaves all the
+harbour work to his chief mate, the keeper of the ship’s anchor and of
+the ship’s routine. For days his voice will not be heard raised about
+the decks, with that curt, austere accent of the man in charge, till,
+again, when the hatches are on, and in a silent and expectant ship, he
+shall speak up from aft in commanding tones: “Man the windlass!”
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+
+THE other year, looking through a newspaper of sound principles, but
+whose staff _will_ persist in “casting” anchors and going to sea “on” a
+ship (ough!), I came across an article upon the season’s yachting. And,
+behold! it was a good article. To a man who had but little to do with
+pleasure sailing (though all sailing is a pleasure), and certainly
+nothing whatever with racing in open waters, the writer’s strictures upon
+the handicapping of yachts were just intelligible and no more. And I do
+not pretend to any interest in the enumeration of the great races of that
+year. As to the 52-foot linear raters, praised so much by the writer, I
+am warmed up by his approval of their performances; but, as far as any
+clear conception goes, the descriptive phrase, so precise to the
+comprehension of a yachtsman, evokes no definite image in my mind.
+
+The writer praises that class of pleasure vessels, and I am willing to
+endorse his words, as any man who loves every craft afloat would be ready
+to do. I am disposed to admire and respect the 52-foot linear raters on
+the word of a man who regrets in such a sympathetic and understanding
+spirit the threatened decay of yachting seamanship.
+
+Of course, yacht racing is an organized pastime, a function of social
+idleness ministering to the vanity of certain wealthy inhabitants of
+these isles nearly as much as to their inborn love of the sea. But the
+writer of the article in question goes on to point out, with insight and
+justice, that for a great number of people (20,000, I think he says) it
+is a means of livelihood—that it is, in his own words, an industry. Now,
+the moral side of an industry, productive or unproductive, the redeeming
+and ideal aspect of this bread-winning, is the attainment and
+preservation of the highest possible skill on the part of the craftsmen.
+Such skill, the skill of technique, is more than honesty; it is something
+wider, embracing honesty and grace and rule in an elevated and clear
+sentiment, not altogether utilitarian, which may be called the honour of
+labour. It is made up of accumulated tradition, kept alive by individual
+pride, rendered exact by professional opinion, and, like the higher arts,
+it spurred on and sustained by discriminating praise.
+
+This is why the attainment of proficiency, the pushing of your skill with
+attention to the most delicate shades of excellence, is a matter of vital
+concern. Efficiency of a practically flawless kind may be reached
+naturally in the struggle for bread. But there is something beyond—a
+higher point, a subtle and unmistakable touch of love and pride beyond
+mere skill; almost an inspiration which gives to all work that finish
+which is almost art—which _is_ art.
+
+As men of scrupulous honour set up a high standard of public conscience
+above the dead-level of an honest community, so men of that skill which
+passes into art by ceaseless striving raise the dead-level of correct
+practice in the crafts of land and sea. The conditions fostering the
+growth of that supreme, alive excellence, as well in work as in play,
+ought to be preserved with a most careful regard lest the industry or the
+game should perish of an insidious and inward decay. Therefore I have
+read with profound regret, in that article upon the yachting season of a
+certain year, that the seamanship on board racing yachts is not now what
+it used to be only a few, very few, years ago.
+
+For that was the gist of that article, written evidently by a man who not
+only knows but _understands_—a thing (let me remark in passing) much
+rarer than one would expect, because the sort of understanding I mean is
+inspired by love; and love, though in a sense it may be admitted to be
+stronger than death, is by no means so universal and so sure. In fact,
+love is rare—the love of men, of things, of ideas, the love of perfected
+skill. For love is the enemy of haste; it takes count of passing days,
+of men who pass away, of a fine art matured slowly in the course of years
+and doomed in a short time to pass away too, and be no more. Love and
+regret go hand in hand in this world of changes swifter than the shifting
+of the clouds reflected in the mirror of the sea.
+
+To penalize a yacht in proportion to the fineness of her performance is
+unfair to the craft and to her men. It is unfair to the perfection of
+her form and to the skill of her servants. For we men are, in fact, the
+servants of our creations. We remain in everlasting bondage to the
+productions of our brain and to the work of our hands. A man is born to
+serve his time on this earth, and there is something fine in the service
+being given on other grounds than that of utility. The bondage of art is
+very exacting. And, as the writer of the article which started this
+train of thought says with lovable warmth, the sailing of yachts is a
+fine art.
+
+His contention is that racing, without time allowances for anything else
+but tonnage—that is, for size—has fostered the fine art of sailing to the
+pitch of perfection. Every sort of demand is made upon the master of a
+sailing-yacht, and to be penalized in proportion to your success may be
+of advantage to the sport itself, but it has an obviously deteriorating
+effect upon the seamanship. The fine art is being lost.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+
+The sailing and racing of yachts has developed a class of fore-and-aft
+sailors, men born and bred to the sea, fishing in winter and yachting in
+summer; men to whom the handling of that particular rig presents no
+mystery. It is their striving for victory that has elevated the sailing
+of pleasure craft to the dignity of a fine art in that special sense. As
+I have said, I know nothing of racing and but little of fore-and-aft rig;
+but the advantages of such a rig are obvious, especially for purposes of
+pleasure, whether in cruising or racing. It requires less effort in
+handling; the trimming of the sail-planes to the wind can be done with
+speed and accuracy; the unbroken spread of the sail-area is of infinite
+advantage; and the greatest possible amount of canvas can be displayed
+upon the least possible quantity of spars. Lightness and concentrated
+power are the great qualities of fore-and-aft rig.
+
+A fleet of fore-and-afters at anchor has its own slender graciousness.
+The setting of their sails resembles more than anything else the
+unfolding of a bird’s wings; the facility of their evolutions is a
+pleasure to the eye. They are birds of the sea, whose swimming is like
+flying, and resembles more a natural function than the handling of
+man-invented appliances. The fore-and-aft rig in its simplicity and the
+beauty of its aspect under every angle of vision is, I believe,
+unapproachable. A schooner, yawl, or cutter in charge of a capable man
+seems to handle herself as if endowed with the power of reasoning and the
+gift of swift execution. One laughs with sheer pleasure at a smart piece
+of manoeuvring, as at a manifestation of a living creature’s quick wit
+and graceful precision.
+
+Of those three varieties of fore-and-aft rig, the cutter—the racing rig
+_par excellence_—is of an appearance the most imposing, from the fact
+that practically all her canvas is in one piece. The enormous mainsail
+of a cutter, as she draws slowly past a point of land or the end of a
+jetty under your admiring gaze, invests her with an air of lofty and
+silent majesty. At anchor a schooner looks better; she has an aspect of
+greater efficiency and a better balance to the eye, with her two masts
+distributed over the hull with a swaggering rake aft. The yawl rig one
+comes in time to love. It is, I should think, the easiest of all to
+manage.
+
+For racing, a cutter; for a long pleasure voyage, a schooner; for
+cruising in home waters, the yawl; and the handling of them all is indeed
+a fine art. It requires not only the knowledge of the general principles
+of sailing, but a particular acquaintance with the character of the
+craft. All vessels are handled in the same way as far as theory goes,
+just as you may deal with all men on broad and rigid principles. But if
+you want that success in life which comes from the affection and
+confidence of your fellows, then with no two men, however similar they
+may appear in their nature, will you deal in the same way. There may be
+a rule of conduct; there is no rule of human fellowship. To deal with
+men is as fine an art as it is to deal with ships. Both men and ships
+live in an unstable element, are subject to subtle and powerful
+influences, and want to have their merits understood rather than their
+faults found out.
+
+It is not what your ship will _not_ do that you want to know to get on
+terms of successful partnership with her; it is, rather, that you ought
+to have a precise knowledge of what she will do for you when called upon
+to put forth what is in her by a sympathetic touch. At first sight the
+difference does not seem great in either line of dealing with the
+difficult problem of limitations. But the difference is great. The
+difference lies in the spirit in which the problem is approached. After
+all, the art of handling ships is finer, perhaps, than the art of
+handling men.
+
+And, like all fine arts, it must be based upon a broad, solid sincerity,
+which, like a law of Nature, rules an infinity of different phenomena.
+Your endeavour must be single-minded. You would talk differently to a
+coal-heaver and to a professor. But is this duplicity? I deny it. The
+truth consists in the genuineness of the feeling, in the genuine
+recognition of the two men, so similar and so different, as your two
+partners in the hazard of life. Obviously, a humbug, thinking only of
+winning his little race, would stand a chance of profiting by his
+artifices. Men, professors or coal-heavers, are easily deceived; they
+even have an extraordinary knack of lending themselves to deception, a
+sort of curious and inexplicable propensity to allow themselves to be led
+by the nose with their eyes open. But a ship is a creature which we have
+brought into the world, as it were on purpose to keep us up to the mark.
+In her handling a ship will not put up with a mere pretender, as, for
+instance, the public will do with Mr. X, the popular statesman, Mr. Y,
+the popular scientist, or Mr. Z, the popular—what shall we say?—anything
+from a teacher of high morality to a bagman—who have won their little
+race. But I would like (though not accustomed to betting) to wager a
+large sum that not one of the few first-rate skippers of racing yachts
+has ever been a humbug. It would have been too difficult. The
+difficulty arises from the fact that one does not deal with ships in a
+mob, but with a ship as an individual. So we may have to do with men.
+But in each of us there lurks some particle of the mob spirit, of the mob
+temperament. No matter how earnestly we strive against each other, we
+remain brothers on the lowest side of our intellect and in the
+instability of our feelings. With ships it is not so. Much as they are
+to us, they are nothing to each other. Those sensitive creatures have no
+ears for our blandishments. It takes something more than words to cajole
+them to do our will, to cover us with glory. Luckily, too, or else there
+would have been more shoddy reputations for first-rate seamanship. Ships
+have no ears, I repeat, though, indeed, I think I have known ships who
+really seemed to have had eyes, or else I cannot understand on what
+ground a certain 1,000-ton barque of my acquaintance on one particular
+occasion refused to answer her helm, thereby saving a frightful smash to
+two ships and to a very good man’s reputation. I knew her intimately for
+two years, and in no other instance either before or since have I known
+her to do that thing. The man she had served so well (guessing, perhaps,
+at the depths of his affection for her) I have known much longer, and in
+bare justice to him I must say that this confidence-shattering experience
+(though so fortunate) only augmented his trust in her. Yes, our ships
+have no ears, and thus they cannot be deceived. I would illustrate my
+idea of fidelity as between man and ship, between the master and his art,
+by a statement which, though it might appear shockingly sophisticated, is
+really very simple. I would say that a racing-yacht skipper who thought
+of nothing else but the glory of winning the race would never attain to
+any eminence of reputation. The genuine masters of their craft—I say
+this confidently from my experience of ships—have thought of nothing but
+of doing their very best by the vessel under their charge. To forget
+one’s self, to surrender all personal feeling in the service of that fine
+art, is the only way for a seaman to the faithful discharge of his trust.
+
+Such is the service of a fine art and of ships that sail the sea. And
+therein I think I can lay my finger upon the difference between the
+seamen of yesterday, who are still with us, and the seamen of to-morrow,
+already entered upon the possession of their inheritance. History
+repeats itself, but the special call of an art which has passed away is
+never reproduced. It is as utterly gone out of the world as the song of
+a destroyed wild bird. Nothing will awaken the same response of
+pleasurable emotion or conscientious endeavour. And the sailing of any
+vessel afloat is an art whose fine form seems already receding from us on
+its way to the overshadowed Valley of Oblivion. The taking of a modern
+steamship about the world (though one would not minimize its
+responsibilities) has not the same quality of intimacy with nature,
+which, after all, is an indispensable condition to the building up of an
+art. It is less personal and a more exact calling; less arduous, but
+also less gratifying in the lack of close communion between the artist
+and the medium of his art. It is, in short, less a matter of love. Its
+effects are measured exactly in time and space as no effect of an art can
+be. It is an occupation which a man not desperately subject to
+sea-sickness can be imagined to follow with content, without enthusiasm,
+with industry, without affection. Punctuality is its watchword. The
+incertitude which attends closely every artistic endeavour is absent from
+its regulated enterprise. It has no great moments of self-confidence, or
+moments not less great of doubt and heart-searching. It is an industry
+which, like other industries, has its romance, its honour and its
+rewards, its bitter anxieties and its hours of ease. But such sea-going
+has not the artistic quality of a single-handed struggle with something
+much greater than yourself; it is not the laborious absorbing practice of
+an art whose ultimate result remains on the knees of the gods. It is not
+an individual, temperamental achievement, but simply the skilled use of a
+captured force, merely another step forward upon the way of universal
+conquest.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+
+Every passage of a ship of yesterday, whose yards were braced round
+eagerly the very moment the pilot, with his pockets full of letters, had
+got over the side, was like a race—a race against time, against an ideal
+standard of achievement outstripping the expectations of common men.
+Like all true art, the general conduct of a ship and her handling in
+particular cases had a technique which could be discussed with delight
+and pleasure by men who found in their work, not bread alone, but an
+outlet for the peculiarities of their temperament. To get the best and
+truest effect from the infinitely varying moods of sky and sea, not
+pictorially, but in the spirit of their calling, was their vocation, one
+and all; and they recognised this with as much sincerity, and drew as
+much inspiration from this reality, as any man who ever put brush to
+canvas. The diversity of temperaments was immense amongst those masters
+of the fine art.
+
+Some of them were like Royal Academicians of a certain kind. They never
+startled you by a touch of originality, by a fresh audacity of
+inspiration. They were safe, very safe. They went about solemnly in the
+assurance of their consecrated and empty reputation. Names are odious,
+but I remember one of them who might have been their very president, the
+P.R.A. of the sea-craft. His weather-beaten and handsome face, his
+portly presence, his shirt-fronts and broad cuffs and gold links, his air
+of bluff distinction, impressed the humble beholders (stevedores, tally
+clerks, tide-waiters) as he walked ashore over the gangway of his ship
+lying at the Circular Quay in Sydney. His voice was deep, hearty, and
+authoritative—the voice of a very prince amongst sailors. He did
+everything with an air which put your attention on the alert and raised
+your expectations, but the result somehow was always on stereotyped
+lines, unsuggestive, empty of any lesson that one could lay to heart. He
+kept his ship in apple-pie order, which would have been seamanlike enough
+but for a finicking touch in its details. His officers affected a
+superiority over the rest of us, but the boredom of their souls appeared
+in their manner of dreary submission to the fads of their commander. It
+was only his apprenticed boys whose irrepressible spirits were not
+affected by the solemn and respectable mediocrity of that artist. There
+were four of these youngsters: one the son of a doctor, another of a
+colonel, the third of a jeweller; the name of the fourth was Twentyman,
+and this is all I remember of his parentage. But not one of them seemed
+to possess the smallest spark of gratitude in his composition. Though
+their commander was a kind man in his way, and had made a point of
+introducing them to the best people in the town in order that they should
+not fall into the bad company of boys belonging to other ships, I regret
+to say that they made faces at him behind his back, and imitated the
+dignified carriage of his head without any concealment whatever.
+
+This master of the fine art was a personage and nothing more; but, as I
+have said, there was an infinite diversity of temperament amongst the
+masters of the fine art I have known. Some were great impressionists.
+They impressed upon you the fear of God and Immensity—or, in other words,
+the fear of being drowned with every circumstance of terrific grandeur.
+One may think that the locality of your passing away by means of
+suffocation in water does not really matter very much. I am not so sure
+of that. I am, perhaps, unduly sensitive, but I confess that the idea of
+being suddenly spilt into an infuriated ocean in the midst of darkness
+and uproar affected me always with a sensation of shrinking distaste. To
+be drowned in a pond, though it might be called an ignominious fate by
+the ignorant, is yet a bright and peaceful ending in comparison with some
+other endings to one’s earthly career which I have mentally quaked at in
+the intervals or even in the midst of violent exertions.
+
+But let that pass. Some of the masters whose influence left a trace upon
+my character to this very day, combined a fierceness of conception with a
+certitude of execution upon the basis of just appreciation of means and
+ends which is the highest quality of the man of action. And an artist is
+a man of action, whether he creates a personality, invents an expedient,
+or finds the issue of a complicated situation.
+
+There were masters, too, I have known, whose very art consisted in
+avoiding every conceivable situation. It is needless to say that they
+never did great things in their craft; but they were not to be despised
+for that. They were modest; they understood their limitations. Their
+own masters had not handed the sacred fire into the keeping of their cold
+and skilful hands. One of those last I remember specially, now gone to
+his rest from that sea which his temperament must have made a scene of
+little more than a peaceful pursuit. Once only did he attempt a stroke
+of audacity, one early morning, with a steady breeze, entering a crowded
+roadstead. But he was not genuine in this display which might have been
+art. He was thinking of his own self; he hankered after the meretricious
+glory of a showy performance.
+
+As, rounding a dark, wooded point, bathed in fresh air and sunshine, we
+opened to view a crowd of shipping at anchor lying half a mile ahead of
+us perhaps, he called me aft from my station on the forecastle head, and,
+turning over and over his binoculars in his brown hands, said: “Do you
+see that big, heavy ship with white lower masts? I am going to take up a
+berth between her and the shore. Now do you see to it that the men jump
+smartly at the first order.”
+
+I answered, “Ay, ay, sir,” and verily believed that this would be a fine
+performance. We dashed on through the fleet in magnificent style. There
+must have been many open mouths and following eyes on board those
+ships—Dutch, English, with a sprinkling of Americans and a German or
+two—who had all hoisted their flags at eight o’clock as if in honour of
+our arrival. It would have been a fine performance if it had come off,
+but it did not. Through a touch of self-seeking that modest artist of
+solid merit became untrue to his temperament. It was not with him art
+for art’s sake: it was art for his own sake; and a dismal failure was the
+penalty he paid for that greatest of sins. It might have been even
+heavier, but, as it happened, we did not run our ship ashore, nor did we
+knock a large hole in the big ship whose lower masts were painted white.
+But it is a wonder that we did not carry away the cables of both our
+anchors, for, as may be imagined, I did not stand upon the order to “Let
+go!” that came to me in a quavering, quite unknown voice from his
+trembling lips. I let them both go with a celerity which to this day
+astonishes my memory. No average merchantman’s anchors have ever been
+let go with such miraculous smartness. And they both held. I could have
+kissed their rough, cold iron palms in gratitude if they had not been
+buried in slimy mud under ten fathoms of water. Ultimately they brought
+us up with the jibboom of a Dutch brig poking through our spanker—nothing
+worse. And a miss is as good as a mile.
+
+But not in art. Afterwards the master said to me in a shy mumble, “She
+wouldn’t luff up in time, somehow. What’s the matter with her?” And I
+made no answer.
+
+Yet the answer was clear. The ship had found out the momentary weakness
+of her man. Of all the living creatures upon land and sea, it is ships
+alone that cannot be taken in by barren pretences, that will not put up
+with bad art from their masters.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+
+FROM the main truck of the average tall ship the horizon describes a
+circle of many miles, in which you can see another ship right down to her
+water-line; and these very eyes which follow this writing have counted in
+their time over a hundred sail becalmed, as if within a magic ring, not
+very far from the Azores—ships more or less tall. There were hardly two
+of them heading exactly the same way, as if each had meditated breaking
+out of the enchanted circle at a different point of the compass. But the
+spell of the calm is a strong magic. The following day still saw them
+scattered within sight of each other and heading different ways; but
+when, at last, the breeze came with the darkling ripple that ran very
+blue on a pale sea, they all went in the same direction together. For
+this was the homeward-bound fleet from the far-off ends of the earth, and
+a Falmouth fruit-schooner, the smallest of them all, was heading the
+flight. One could have imagined her very fair, if not divinely tall,
+leaving a scent of lemons and oranges in her wake.
+
+The next day there were very few ships in sight from our mast-heads—seven
+at most, perhaps, with a few more distant specks, hull down, beyond the
+magic ring of the horizon. The spell of the fair wind has a subtle power
+to scatter a white-winged company of ships looking all the same way, each
+with its white fillet of tumbling foam under the bow. It is the calm
+that brings ships mysteriously together; it is your wind that is the
+great separator.
+
+The taller the ship, the further she can be seen; and her white tallness
+breathed upon by the wind first proclaims her size. The tall masts
+holding aloft the white canvas, spread out like a snare for catching the
+invisible power of the air, emerge gradually from the water, sail after
+sail, yard after yard, growing big, till, under the towering structure of
+her machinery, you perceive the insignificant, tiny speck of her hull.
+
+The tall masts are the pillars supporting the balanced planes that,
+motionless and silent, catch from the air the ship’s motive-power, as it
+were a gift from Heaven vouchsafed to the audacity of man; and it is the
+ship’s tall spars, stripped and shorn of their white glory, that incline
+themselves before the anger of the clouded heaven.
+
+When they yield to a squall in a gaunt and naked submission, their
+tallness is brought best home even to the mind of a seaman. The man who
+has looked upon his ship going over too far is made aware of the
+preposterous tallness of a ship’s spars. It seems impossible but that
+those gilt trucks which one had to tilt one’s head back to see, now
+falling into the lower plane of vision, must perforce hit the very edge
+of the horizon. Such an experience gives you a better impression of the
+loftiness of your spars than any amount of running aloft could do. And
+yet in my time the royal yards of an average profitable ship were a good
+way up above her decks.
+
+No doubt a fair amount of climbing up iron ladders can be achieved by an
+active man in a ship’s engine-room, but I remember moments when even to
+my supple limbs and pride of nimbleness the sailing-ship’s machinery
+seemed to reach up to the very stars.
+
+For machinery it is, doing its work in perfect silence and with a
+motionless grace, that seems to hide a capricious and not always
+governable power, taking nothing away from the material stores of the
+earth. Not for it the unerring precision of steel moved by white steam
+and living by red fire and fed with black coal. The other seems to draw
+its strength from the very soul of the world, its formidable ally, held
+to obedience by the frailest bonds, like a fierce ghost captured in a
+snare of something even finer than spun silk. For what is the array of
+the strongest ropes, the tallest spars and the stoutest canvas against
+the mighty breath of the infinite, but thistle stalks, cobwebs and
+gossamer?
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+
+Indeed, it is less than nothing, and I have seen, when the great soul of
+the world turned over with a heavy sigh, a perfectly new, extra-stout
+foresail vanish like a bit of some airy stuff much lighter than gossamer.
+Then was the time for the tall spars to stand fast in the great uproar.
+The machinery must do its work even if the soul of the world has gone
+mad.
+
+The modern steamship advances upon a still and overshadowed sea with a
+pulsating tremor of her frame, an occasional clang in her depths, as if
+she had an iron heart in her iron body; with a thudding rhythm in her
+progress and the regular beat of her propeller, heard afar in the night
+with an august and plodding sound as of the march of an inevitable
+future. But in a gale, the silent machinery of a sailing-ship would
+catch not only the power, but the wild and exulting voice of the world’s
+soul. Whether she ran with her tall spars swinging, or breasted it with
+her tall spars lying over, there was always that wild song, deep like a
+chant, for a bass to the shrill pipe of the wind played on the sea-tops,
+with a punctuating crash, now and then, of a breaking wave. At times the
+weird effects of that invisible orchestra would get upon a man’s nerves
+till he wished himself deaf.
+
+And this recollection of a personal wish, experienced upon several
+oceans, where the soul of the world has plenty of room to turn over with
+a mighty sigh, brings me to the remark that in order to take a proper
+care of a ship’s spars it is just as well for a seaman to have nothing
+the matter with his ears. Such is the intimacy with which a seaman had
+to live with his ship of yesterday that his senses were like her senses,
+that the stress upon his body made him judge of the strain upon the
+ship’s masts.
+
+I had been some time at sea before I became aware of the fact that
+hearing plays a perceptible part in gauging the force of the wind. It
+was at night. The ship was one of those iron wool-clippers that the
+Clyde had floated out in swarms upon the world during the seventh decade
+of the last century. It was a fine period in ship-building, and also, I
+might say, a period of over-masting. The spars rigged up on the narrow
+hulls were indeed tall then, and the ship of which I think, with her
+coloured-glass skylight ends bearing the motto, “Let Glasgow Flourish,”
+was certainly one of the most heavily-sparred specimens. She was built
+for hard driving, and unquestionably she got all the driving she could
+stand. Our captain was a man famous for the quick passages he had been
+used to make in the old _Tweed_, a ship famous the world over for her
+speed. The _Tweed_ had been a wooden vessel, and he brought the
+tradition of quick passages with him into the iron clipper. I was the
+junior in her, a third mate, keeping watch with the chief officer; and it
+was just during one of the night watches in a strong, freshening breeze
+that I overheard two men in a sheltered nook of the main deck exchanging
+these informing remarks. Said one:
+
+“Should think ’twas time some of them light sails were coming off her.”
+
+And the other, an older man, uttered grumpily: “No fear! not while the
+chief mate’s on deck. He’s that deaf he can’t tell how much wind there
+is.”
+
+And, indeed, poor P—, quite young, and a smart seaman, was very hard of
+hearing. At the same time, he had the name of being the very devil of a
+fellow for carrying on sail on a ship. He was wonderfully clever at
+concealing his deafness, and, as to carrying on heavily, though he was a
+fearless man, I don’t think that he ever meant to take undue risks. I
+can never forget his naïve sort of astonishment when remonstrated with
+for what appeared a most dare-devil performance. The only person, of
+course, that could remonstrate with telling effect was our captain,
+himself a man of dare-devil tradition; and really, for me, who knew under
+whom I was serving, those were impressive scenes. Captain S— had a great
+name for sailor-like qualities—the sort of name that compelled my
+youthful admiration. To this day I preserve his memory, for, indeed, it
+was he in a sense who completed my training. It was often a stormy
+process, but let that pass. I am sure he meant well, and I am certain
+that never, not even at the time, could I bear him malice for his
+extraordinary gift of incisive criticism. And to hear _him_ make a fuss
+about too much sail on the ship seemed one of those incredible
+experiences that take place only in one’s dreams.
+
+It generally happened in this way: Night, clouds racing overhead, wind
+howling, royals set, and the ship rushing on in the dark, an immense
+white sheet of foam level with the lee rail. Mr. P—, in charge of the
+deck, hooked on to the windward mizzen rigging in a state of perfect
+serenity; myself, the third mate, also hooked on somewhere to windward of
+the slanting poop, in a state of the utmost preparedness to jump at the
+very first hint of some sort of order, but otherwise in a perfectly
+acquiescent state of mind. Suddenly, out of the companion would appear a
+tall, dark figure, bareheaded, with a short white beard of a
+perpendicular cut, very visible in the dark—Captain S—, disturbed in his
+reading down below by the frightful bounding and lurching of the ship.
+Leaning very much against the precipitous incline of the deck, he would
+take a turn or two, perfectly silent, hang on by the compass for a while,
+take another couple of turns, and suddenly burst out:
+
+“What are you trying to do with the ship?”
+
+And Mr. P—, who was not good at catching what was shouted in the wind,
+would say interrogatively:
+
+“Yes, sir?”
+
+Then in the increasing gale of the sea there would be a little private
+ship’s storm going on in which you could detect strong language,
+pronounced in a tone of passion and exculpatory protestations uttered
+with every possible inflection of injured innocence.
+
+“By Heavens, Mr. P-! I used to carry on sail in my time, but—”
+
+And the rest would be lost to me in a stormy gust of wind.
+
+Then, in a lull, P—’s protesting innocence would become audible:
+
+“She seems to stand it very well.”
+
+And then another burst of an indignant voice:
+
+“Any fool can carry sail on a ship—”
+
+And so on and so on, the ship meanwhile rushing on her way with a heavier
+list, a noisier splutter, a more threatening hiss of the white, almost
+blinding, sheet of foam to leeward. For the best of it was that Captain
+S— seemed constitutionally incapable of giving his officers a definite
+order to shorten sail; and so that extraordinarily vague row would go on
+till at last it dawned upon them both, in some particularly alarming
+gust, that it was time to do something. There is nothing like the
+fearful inclination of your tall spars overloaded with canvas to bring a
+deaf man and an angry one to their senses.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+
+So sail did get shortened more or less in time even in that ship, and her
+tall spars never went overboard while I served in her. However, all the
+time I was with them, Captain S— and Mr. P— did not get on very well
+together. If P— carried on “like the very devil” because he was too deaf
+to know how much wind there was, Captain S— (who, as I have said, seemed
+constitutionally incapable of ordering one of his officers to shorten
+sail) resented the necessity forced upon him by Mr. P—’s desperate goings
+on. It was in Captain S—’s tradition rather to reprove his officers for
+not carrying on quite enough—in his phrase “for not taking every ounce of
+advantage of a fair wind.” But there was also a psychological motive
+that made him extremely difficult to deal with on board that iron
+clipper. He had just come out of the marvellous _Tweed_, a ship, I have
+heard, heavy to look at but of phenomenal speed. In the middle sixties
+she had beaten by a day and a half the steam mail-boat from Hong Kong to
+Singapore. There was something peculiarly lucky, perhaps, in the placing
+of her masts—who knows? Officers of men-of-war used to come on board to
+take the exact dimensions of her sail-plan. Perhaps there had been a
+touch of genius or the finger of good fortune in the fashioning of her
+lines at bow and stern. It is impossible to say. She was built in the
+East Indies somewhere, of teak-wood throughout, except the deck. She had
+a great sheer, high bows, and a clumsy stern. The men who had seen her
+described her to me as “nothing much to look at.” But in the great
+Indian famine of the seventies that ship, already old then, made some
+wonderful dashes across the Gulf of Bengal with cargoes of rice from
+Rangoon to Madras.
+
+She took the secret of her speed with her, and, unsightly as she was, her
+image surely has its glorious place in the mirror of the old sea.
+
+The point, however, is that Captain S—, who used to say frequently, “She
+never made a decent passage after I left her,” seemed to think that the
+secret of her speed lay in her famous commander. No doubt the secret of
+many a ship’s excellence does lie with the man on board, but it was
+hopeless for Captain S— to try to make his new iron clipper equal the
+feats which made the old _Tweed_ a name of praise upon the lips of
+English-speaking seamen. There was something pathetic in it, as in the
+endeavour of an artist in his old age to equal the masterpieces of his
+youth—for the _Tweed’s_ famous passages were Captain S—’s masterpieces.
+It was pathetic, and perhaps just the least bit dangerous. At any rate,
+I am glad that, what between Captain S—’s yearning for old triumphs and
+Mr. P—’s deafness, I have seen some memorable carrying on to make a
+passage. And I have carried on myself upon the tall spars of that Clyde
+shipbuilder’s masterpiece as I have never carried on in a ship before or
+since.
+
+The second mate falling ill during the passage, I was promoted to officer
+of the watch, alone in charge of the deck. Thus the immense leverage of
+the ship’s tall masts became a matter very near my own heart. I suppose
+it was something of a compliment for a young fellow to be trusted,
+apparently without any supervision, by such a commander as Captain S—;
+though, as far as I can remember, neither the tone, nor the manner, nor
+yet the drift of Captain S—’s remarks addressed to myself did ever, by
+the most strained interpretation, imply a favourable opinion of my
+abilities. And he was, I must say, a most uncomfortable commander to get
+your orders from at night. If I had the watch from eight till midnight,
+he would leave the deck about nine with the words, “Don’t take any sail
+off her.” Then, on the point of disappearing down the companion-way, he
+would add curtly: “Don’t carry anything away.” I am glad to say that I
+never did; one night, however, I was caught, not quite prepared, by a
+sudden shift of wind.
+
+There was, of course, a good deal of noise—running about, the shouts of
+the sailors, the thrashing of the sails—enough, in fact, to wake the
+dead. But S— never came on deck. When I was relieved by the chief mate
+an hour afterwards, he sent for me. I went into his state-room; he was
+lying on his couch wrapped up in a rug, with a pillow under his head.
+
+“What was the matter with you up there just now?” he asked.
+
+“Wind flew round on the lee quarter, sir,” I said.
+
+“Couldn’t you see the shift coming?”
+
+“Yes, sir, I thought it wasn’t very far off.”
+
+“Why didn’t you have your courses hauled up at once, then?” he asked in a
+tone that ought to have made my blood run cold.
+
+But this was my chance, and I did not let it slip.
+
+“Well, sir,” I said in an apologetic tone, “she was going eleven knots
+very nicely, and I thought she would do for another half-hour or so.”
+
+He gazed at me darkly out of his head, lying very still on the white
+pillow, for a time.
+
+“Ah, yes, another half-hour. That’s the way ships get dismasted.”
+
+And that was all I got in the way of a wigging. I waited a little while
+and then went out, shutting carefully the door of the state-room after
+me.
+
+Well, I have loved, lived with, and left the sea without ever seeing a
+ship’s tall fabric of sticks, cobwebs and gossamer go by the board.
+Sheer good luck, no doubt. But as to poor P—, I am sure that he would
+not have got off scot-free like this but for the god of gales, who called
+him away early from this earth, which is three parts ocean, and therefore
+a fit abode for sailors. A few years afterwards I met in an Indian port
+a man who had served in the ships of the same company. Names came up in
+our talk, names of our colleagues in the same employ, and, naturally
+enough, I asked after P—. Had he got a command yet? And the other man
+answered carelessly:
+
+“No; but he’s provided for, anyhow. A heavy sea took him off the poop in
+the run between New Zealand and the Horn.”
+
+Thus P— passed away from amongst the tall spars of ships that he had
+tried to their utmost in many a spell of boisterous weather. He had
+shown me what carrying on meant, but he was not a man to learn discretion
+from. He could not help his deafness. One can only remember his cheery
+temper, his admiration for the jokes in _Punch_, his little oddities—like
+his strange passion for borrowing looking-glasses, for instance. Each of
+our cabins had its own looking-glass screwed to the bulkhead, and what he
+wanted with more of them we never could fathom. He asked for the loan in
+confidential tones. Why? Mystery. We made various surmises. No one
+will ever know now. At any rate, it was a harmless eccentricity, and may
+the god of gales, who took him away so abruptly between New Zealand and
+the Horn, let his soul rest in some Paradise of true seamen, where no
+amount of carrying on will ever dismast a ship!
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+
+THERE has been a time when a ship’s chief mate, pocket-book in hand and
+pencil behind his ear, kept one eye aloft upon his riggers and the other
+down the hatchway on the stevedores, and watched the disposition of his
+ship’s cargo, knowing that even before she started he was already doing
+his best to secure for her an easy and quick passage.
+
+The hurry of the times, the loading and discharging organization of the
+docks, the use of hoisting machinery which works quickly and will not
+wait, the cry for prompt despatch, the very size of his ship, stand
+nowadays between the modern seaman and the thorough knowledge of his
+craft.
+
+There are profitable ships and unprofitable ships. The profitable ship
+will carry a large load through all the hazards of the weather, and, when
+at rest, will stand up in dock and shift from berth to berth without
+ballast. There is a point of perfection in a ship as a worker when she
+is spoken of as being able to _sail_ without ballast. I have never met
+that sort of paragon myself, but I have seen these paragons advertised
+amongst ships for sale. Such excess of virtue and good-nature on the
+part of a ship always provoked my mistrust. It is open to any man to say
+that his ship will sail without ballast; and he will say it, too, with
+every mark of profound conviction, especially if he is not going to sail
+in her himself. The risk of advertising her as able to sail without
+ballast is not great, since the statement does not imply a warranty of
+her arriving anywhere. Moreover, it is strictly true that most ships
+will sail without ballast for some little time before they turn turtle
+upon the crew.
+
+A shipowner loves a profitable ship; the seaman is proud of her; a doubt
+of her good looks seldom exists in his mind; but if he can boast of her
+more useful qualities it is an added satisfaction for his self-love.
+
+The loading of ships was once a matter of skill, judgment, and knowledge.
+Thick books have been written about it. “Stevens on Stowage” is a portly
+volume with the renown and weight (in its own world) of Coke on
+Littleton. Stevens is an agreeable writer, and, as is the case with men
+of talent, his gifts adorn his sterling soundness. He gives you the
+official teaching on the whole subject, is precise as to rules, mentions
+illustrative events, quotes law cases where verdicts turned upon a point
+of stowage. He is never pedantic, and, for all his close adherence to
+broad principles, he is ready to admit that no two ships can be treated
+exactly alike.
+
+Stevedoring, which had been a skilled labour, is fast becoming a labour
+without the skill. The modern steamship with her many holds is not
+loaded within the sailor-like meaning of the word. She is filled up.
+Her cargo is not stowed in any sense; it is simply dumped into her
+through six hatchways, more or less, by twelve winches or so, with
+clatter and hurry and racket and heat, in a cloud of steam and a mess of
+coal-dust. As long as you keep her propeller under water and take care,
+say, not to fling down barrels of oil on top of bales of silk, or deposit
+an iron bridge-girder of five ton or so upon a bed of coffee-bags, you
+have done about all in the way of duty that the cry for prompt despatch
+will allow you to do.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+
+The sailing-ship, when I knew her in her days of perfection, was a
+sensible creature. When I say her days of perfection, I mean perfection
+of build, gear, seaworthy qualities and ease of handling, not the
+perfection of speed. That quality has departed with the change of
+building material. No iron ship of yesterday ever attained the marvels
+of speed which the seamanship of men famous in their time had obtained
+from their wooden, copper-sheeted predecessors. Everything had been done
+to make the iron ship perfect, but no wit of man had managed to devise an
+efficient coating composition to keep her bottom clean with the smooth
+cleanness of yellow metal sheeting. After a spell of a few weeks at sea,
+an iron ship begins to lag as if she had grown tired too soon. It is
+only her bottom that is getting foul. A very little affects the speed of
+an iron ship which is not driven on by a merciless propeller. Often it
+is impossible to tell what inconsiderate trifle puts her off her stride.
+A certain mysteriousness hangs around the quality of speed as it was
+displayed by the old sailing-ships commanded by a competent seaman. In
+those days the speed depended upon the seaman; therefore, apart from the
+laws, rules, and regulations for the good preservation of his cargo, he
+was careful of his loading,—or what is technically called the trim of his
+ship. Some ships sailed fast on an even keel, others had to be trimmed
+quite one foot by the stern, and I have heard of a ship that gave her
+best speed on a wind when so loaded as to float a couple of inches by the
+head.
+
+I call to mind a winter landscape in Amsterdam—a flat foreground of waste
+land, with here and there stacks of timber, like the huts of a camp of
+some very miserable tribe; the long stretch of the Handelskade; cold,
+stone-faced quays, with the snow-sprinkled ground and the hard, frozen
+water of the canal, in which were set ships one behind another with their
+frosty mooring-ropes hanging slack and their decks idle and deserted,
+because, as the master stevedore (a gentle, pale person, with a few
+golden hairs on his chin and a reddened nose) informed me, their cargoes
+were frozen-in up-country on barges and schuyts. In the distance, beyond
+the waste ground, and running parallel with the line of ships, a line of
+brown, warm-toned houses seemed bowed under snow-laden roofs. From afar
+at the end of Tsar Peter Straat, issued in the frosty air the tinkle of
+bells of the horse tramcars, appearing and disappearing in the opening
+between the buildings, like little toy carriages harnessed with toy
+horses and played with by people that appeared no bigger than children.
+
+I was, as the French say, biting my fists with impatience for that cargo
+frozen up-country; with rage at that canal set fast, at the wintry and
+deserted aspect of all those ships that seemed to decay in grim
+depression for want of the open water. I was chief mate, and very much
+alone. Directly I had joined I received from my owners instructions to
+send all the ship’s apprentices away on leave together, because in such
+weather there was nothing for anybody to do, unless to keep up a fire in
+the cabin stove. That was attended to by a snuffy and mop-headed,
+inconceivably dirty, and weirdly toothless Dutch ship-keeper, who could
+hardly speak three words of English, but who must have had some
+considerable knowledge of the language, since he managed invariably to
+interpret in the contrary sense everything that was said to him.
+
+Notwithstanding the little iron stove, the ink froze on the swing-table
+in the cabin, and I found it more convenient to go ashore stumbling over
+the arctic waste-land and shivering in glazed tramcars in order to write
+my evening letter to my owners in a gorgeous café in the centre of the
+town. It was an immense place, lofty and gilt, upholstered in red plush,
+full of electric lights and so thoroughly warmed that even the marble
+tables felt tepid to the touch. The waiter who brought me my cup of
+coffee bore, by comparison with my utter isolation, the dear aspect of an
+intimate friend. There, alone in a noisy crowd, I would write slowly a
+letter addressed to Glasgow, of which the gist would be: There is no
+cargo, and no prospect of any coming till late spring apparently. And
+all the time I sat there the necessity of getting back to the ship bore
+heavily on my already half-congealed spirits—the shivering in glazed
+tramcars, the stumbling over the snow-sprinkled waste ground, the vision
+of ships frozen in a row, appearing vaguely like corpses of black vessels
+in a white world, so silent, so lifeless, so soulless they seemed to be.
+
+With precaution I would go up the side of my own particular corpse, and
+would feel her as cold as ice itself and as slippery under my feet. My
+cold berth would swallow up like a chilly burial niche my bodily shivers
+and my mental excitement. It was a cruel winter. The very air seemed as
+hard and trenchant as steel; but it would have taken much more than this
+to extinguish my sacred fire for the exercise of my craft. No young man
+of twenty-four appointed chief mate for the first time in his life would
+have let that Dutch tenacious winter penetrate into his heart. I think
+that in those days I never forgot the fact of my elevation for five
+consecutive minutes. I fancy it kept me warm, even in my slumbers,
+better than the high pile of blankets, which positively crackled with
+frost as I threw them off in the morning. And I would get up early for
+no reason whatever except that I was in sole charge. The new captain had
+not been appointed yet.
+
+Almost each morning a letter from my owners would arrive, directing me to
+go to the charterers and clamour for the ship’s cargo; to threaten them
+with the heaviest penalties of demurrage; to demand that this assortment
+of varied merchandise, set fast in a landscape of ice and windmills
+somewhere up-country, should be put on rail instantly, and fed up to the
+ship in regular quantities every day. After drinking some hot coffee,
+like an Arctic explorer setting off on a sledge journey towards the North
+Pole, I would go ashore and roll shivering in a tramcar into the very
+heart of the town, past clean-faced houses, past thousands of brass
+knockers upon a thousand painted doors glimmering behind rows of trees of
+the pavement species, leafless, gaunt, seemingly dead for ever.
+
+That part of the expedition was easy enough, though the horses were
+painfully glistening with icicles, and the aspect of the tram-conductors’
+faces presented a repulsive blending of crimson and purple. But as to
+frightening or bullying, or even wheedling some sort of answer out of Mr.
+Hudig, that was another matter altogether. He was a big, swarthy
+Netherlander, with black moustaches and a bold glance. He always began
+by shoving me into a chair before I had time to open my mouth, gave me
+cordially a large cigar, and in excellent English would start to talk
+everlastingly about the phenomenal severity of the weather. It was
+impossible to threaten a man who, though he possessed the language
+perfectly, seemed incapable of understanding any phrase pronounced in a
+tone of remonstrance or discontent. As to quarrelling with him, it would
+have been stupid. The weather was too bitter for that. His office was
+so warm, his fire so bright, his sides shook so heartily with laughter,
+that I experienced always a great difficulty in making up my mind to
+reach for my hat.
+
+At last the cargo did come. At first it came dribbling in by rail in
+trucks, till the thaw set in; and then fast, in a multitude of barges,
+with a great rush of unbound waters. The gentle master stevedore had his
+hands very full at last; and the chief mate became worried in his mind as
+to the proper distribution of the weight of his first cargo in a ship he
+did not personally know before.
+
+Ships do want humouring. They want humouring in handling; and if you
+mean to handle them well, they must have been humoured in the
+distribution of the weight which you ask them to carry through the good
+and evil fortune of a passage. Your ship is a tender creature, whose
+idiosyncrasies must be attended to if you mean her to come with credit to
+herself and you through the rough-and-tumble of her life.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+
+So seemed to think the new captain, who arrived the day after we had
+finished loading, on the very eve of the day of sailing. I first beheld
+him on the quay, a complete stranger to me, obviously not a Hollander, in
+a black bowler and a short drab overcoat, ridiculously out of tone with
+the winter aspect of the waste-lands, bordered by the brown fronts of
+houses with their roofs dripping with melting snow.
+
+This stranger was walking up and down absorbed in the marked
+contemplation of the ship’s fore and aft trim; but when I saw him squat
+on his heels in the slush at the very edge of the quay to peer at the
+draught of water under her counter, I said to myself, “This is the
+captain.” And presently I descried his luggage coming along—a real
+sailor’s chest, carried by means of rope-beckets between two men, with a
+couple of leather portmanteaus and a roll of charts sheeted in canvas
+piled upon the lid. The sudden, spontaneous agility with which he
+bounded aboard right off the rail afforded me the first glimpse of his
+real character. Without further preliminaries than a friendly nod, he
+addressed me: “You have got her pretty well in her fore and aft trim.
+Now, what about your weights?”
+
+I told him I had managed to keep the weight sufficiently well up, as I
+thought, one-third of the whole being in the upper part “above the
+beams,” as the technical expression has it. He whistled “Phew!”
+scrutinizing me from head to foot. A sort of smiling vexation was
+visible on his ruddy face.
+
+“Well, we shall have a lively time of it this passage, I bet,” he said.
+
+He knew. It turned out he had been chief mate of her for the two
+preceding voyages; and I was already familiar with his handwriting in the
+old log-books I had been perusing in my cabin with a natural curiosity,
+looking up the records of my new ship’s luck, of her behaviour, of the
+good times she had had, and of the troubles she had escaped.
+
+He was right in his prophecy. On our passage from Amsterdam to Samarang
+with a general cargo, of which, alas! only one-third in weight was stowed
+“above the beams,” we had a lively time of it. It was lively, but not
+joyful. There was not even a single moment of comfort in it, because no
+seaman can feel comfortable in body or mind when he has made his ship
+uneasy.
+
+To travel along with a cranky ship for ninety days or so is no doubt a
+nerve-trying experience; but in this case what was wrong with our craft
+was this: that by my system of loading she had been made much too stable.
+
+Neither before nor since have I felt a ship roll so abruptly, so
+violently, so heavily. Once she began, you felt that she would never
+stop, and this hopeless sensation, characterizing the motion of ships
+whose centre of gravity is brought down too low in loading, made everyone
+on board weary of keeping on his feet. I remember once over-hearing one
+of the hands say: “By Heavens, Jack! I feel as if I didn’t mind how soon
+I let myself go, and let the blamed hooker knock my brains out if she
+likes.” The captain used to remark frequently: “Ah, yes; I dare say
+one-third weight above beams would have been quite enough for most ships.
+But then, you see, there’s no two of them alike on the seas, and she’s an
+uncommonly ticklish jade to load.”
+
+Down south, running before the gales of high latitudes, she made our life
+a burden to us. There were days when nothing would keep even on the
+swing-tables, when there was no position where you could fix yourself so
+as not to feel a constant strain upon all the muscles of your body. She
+rolled and rolled with an awful dislodging jerk and that dizzily fast
+sweep of her masts on every swing. It was a wonder that the men sent
+aloft were not flung off the yards, the yards not flung off the masts,
+the masts not flung overboard. The captain in his armchair, holding on
+grimly at the head of the table, with the soup-tureen rolling on one side
+of the cabin and the steward sprawling on the other, would observe,
+looking at me: “That’s your one-third above the beams. The only thing
+that surprises me is that the sticks have stuck to her all this time.”
+
+Ultimately some of the minor spars did go—nothing important:
+spanker-booms and such-like—because at times the frightful impetus of her
+rolling would part a fourfold tackle of new three-inch Manilla line as if
+it were weaker than pack-thread.
+
+It was only poetic justice that the chief mate who had made a
+mistake—perhaps a half-excusable one—about the distribution of his ship’s
+cargo should pay the penalty. A piece of one of the minor spars that did
+carry away flew against the chief mate’s back, and sent him sliding on
+his face for quite a considerable distance along the main deck.
+Thereupon followed various and unpleasant consequences of a physical
+order—“queer symptoms,” as the captain, who treated them, used to say;
+inexplicable periods of powerlessness, sudden accesses of mysterious
+pain; and the patient agreed fully with the regretful mutters of his very
+attentive captain wishing that it had been a straightforward broken leg.
+Even the Dutch doctor who took the case up in Samarang offered no
+scientific explanation. All he said was: “Ah, friend, you are young yet;
+it may be very serious for your whole life. You must leave your ship;
+you must quite silent be for three months—quite silent.”
+
+Of course, he meant the chief mate to keep quiet—to lay up, as a matter
+of fact. His manner was impressive enough, if his English was childishly
+imperfect when compared with the fluency of Mr. Hudig, the figure at the
+other end of that passage, and memorable enough in its way. In a great
+airy ward of a Far Eastern hospital, lying on my back, I had plenty of
+leisure to remember the dreadful cold and snow of Amsterdam, while
+looking at the fronds of the palm-trees tossing and rustling at the
+height of the window. I could remember the elated feeling and the
+soul-gripping cold of those tramway journeys taken into town to put what
+in diplomatic language is called pressure upon the good Hudig, with his
+warm fire, his armchair, his big cigar, and the never-failing suggestion
+in his good-natured voice: “I suppose in the end it is you they will
+appoint captain before the ship sails?” It may have been his extreme
+good-nature, the serious, unsmiling good-nature of a fat, swarthy man
+with coal-black moustache and steady eyes; but he might have been a bit
+of a diplomatist, too. His enticing suggestions I used to repel modestly
+by the assurance that it was extremely unlikely, as I had not enough
+experience. “You know very well how to go about business matters,” he
+used to say, with a sort of affected moodiness clouding his serene round
+face. I wonder whether he ever laughed to himself after I had left the
+office. I dare say he never did, because I understand that diplomatists,
+in and out of the career, take themselves and their tricks with an
+exemplary seriousness.
+
+But he had nearly persuaded me that I was fit in every way to be trusted
+with a command. There came three months of mental worry, hard rolling,
+remorse, and physical pain to drive home the lesson of insufficient
+experience.
+
+Yes, your ship wants to be humoured with knowledge. You must treat with
+an understanding consideration the mysteries of her feminine nature, and
+then she will stand by you faithfully in the unceasing struggle with
+forces wherein defeat is no shame. It is a serious relation, that in
+which a man stands to his ship. She has her rights as though she could
+breathe and speak; and, indeed, there are ships that, for the right man,
+will do anything but speak, as the saying goes.
+
+A ship is not a slave. You must make her easy in a seaway, you must
+never forget that you owe her the fullest share of your thought, of your
+skill, of your self-love. If you remember that obligation, naturally and
+without effort, as if it were an instinctive feeling of your inner life,
+she will sail, stay, run for you as long as she is able, or, like a
+sea-bird going to rest upon the angry waves, she will lay out the
+heaviest gale that ever made you doubt living long enough to see another
+sunrise.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+
+Often I turn with melancholy eagerness to the space reserved in the
+newspapers under the general heading of “Shipping Intelligence.” I meet
+there the names of ships I have known. Every year some of these names
+disappear—the names of old friends. “Tempi passati!”
+
+The different divisions of that kind of news are set down in their order,
+which varies but slightly in its arrangement of concise headlines. And
+first comes “Speakings”—reports of ships met and signalled at sea, name,
+port, where from, where bound for, so many days out, ending frequently
+with the words “All well.” Then come “Wrecks and Casualties”—a longish
+array of paragraphs, unless the weather has been fair and clear, and
+friendly to ships all over the world.
+
+On some days there appears the heading “Overdue”—an ominous threat of
+loss and sorrow trembling yet in the balance of fate. There is something
+sinister to a seaman in the very grouping of the letters which form this
+word, clear in its meaning, and seldom threatening in vain.
+
+Only a very few days more—appallingly few to the hearts which had set
+themselves bravely to hope against hope—three weeks, a month later,
+perhaps, the name of ships under the blight of the “Overdue” heading
+shall appear again in the column of “Shipping Intelligence,” but under
+the final declaration of “Missing.”
+
+“The ship, or barque, or brig So-and-so, bound from such a port, with
+such and such cargo, for such another port, having left at such and such
+a date, last spoken at sea on such a day, and never having been heard of
+since, was posted to-day as missing.” Such in its strictly official
+eloquence is the form of funeral orations on ships that, perhaps wearied
+with a long struggle, or in some unguarded moment that may come to the
+readiest of us, had let themselves be overwhelmed by a sudden blow from
+the enemy.
+
+Who can say? Perhaps the men she carried had asked her to do too much,
+had stretched beyond breaking-point the enduring faithfulness which seems
+wrought and hammered into that assemblage of iron ribs and plating, of
+wood and steel and canvas and wire, which goes to the making of a ship—a
+complete creation endowed with character, individuality, qualities and
+defects, by men whose hands launch her upon the water, and that other men
+shall learn to know with an intimacy surpassing the intimacy of man with
+man, to love with a love nearly as great as that of man for woman, and
+often as blind in its infatuated disregard of defects.
+
+There are ships which bear a bad name, but I have yet to meet one whose
+crew for the time being failed to stand up angrily for her against every
+criticism. One ship which I call to mind now had the reputation of
+killing somebody every voyage she made. This was no calumny, and yet I
+remember well, somewhere far back in the late seventies, that the crew of
+that ship were, if anything, rather proud of her evil fame, as if they
+had been an utterly corrupt lot of desperadoes glorying in their
+association with an atrocious creature. We, belonging to other vessels
+moored all about the Circular Quay in Sydney, used to shake our heads at
+her with a great sense of the unblemished virtue of our own well-loved
+ships.
+
+I shall not pronounce her name. She is “missing” now, after a sinister
+but, from the point of view of her owners, a useful career extending over
+many years, and, I should say, across every ocean of our globe. Having
+killed a man for every voyage, and perhaps rendered more misanthropic by
+the infirmities that come with years upon a ship, she had made up her
+mind to kill all hands at once before leaving the scene of her exploits.
+A fitting end, this, to a life of usefulness and crime—in a last outburst
+of an evil passion supremely satisfied on some wild night, perhaps, to
+the applauding clamour of wind and wave.
+
+How did she do it? In the word “missing” there is a horrible depth of
+doubt and speculation. Did she go quickly from under the men’s feet, or
+did she resist to the end, letting the sea batter her to pieces, start
+her butts, wrench her frame, load her with an increasing weight of salt
+water, and, dismasted, unmanageable, rolling heavily, her boats gone, her
+decks swept, had she wearied her men half to death with the unceasing
+labour at the pumps before she sank with them like a stone?
+
+However, such a case must be rare. I imagine a raft of some sort could
+always be contrived; and, even if it saved no one, it would float on and
+be picked up, perhaps conveying some hint of the vanished name. Then
+that ship would not be, properly speaking, missing. She would be “lost
+with all hands,” and in that distinction there is a subtle
+difference—less horror and a less appalling darkness.
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+
+The unholy fascination of dread dwells in the thought of the last moments
+of a ship reported as “missing” in the columns of the _Shipping Gazette_.
+Nothing of her ever comes to light—no grating, no lifebuoy, no piece of
+boat or branded oar—to give a hint of the place and date of her sudden
+end. The _Shipping Gazette_ does not even call her “lost with all
+hands.” She remains simply “missing”; she has disappeared enigmatically
+into a mystery of fate as big as the world, where your imagination of a
+brother-sailor, of a fellow-servant and lover of ships, may range
+unchecked.
+
+And yet sometimes one gets a hint of what the last scene may be like in
+the life of a ship and her crew, which resembles a drama in its struggle
+against a great force bearing it up, formless, ungraspable, chaotic and
+mysterious, as fate.
+
+It was on a gray afternoon in the lull of a three days’ gale that had
+left the Southern Ocean tumbling heavily upon our ship, under a sky hung
+with rags of clouds that seemed to have been cut and hacked by the keen
+edge of a sou’-west gale.
+
+Our craft, a Clyde-built barque of 1,000 tons, rolled so heavily that
+something aloft had carried away. No matter what the damage was, but it
+was serious enough to induce me to go aloft myself with a couple of hands
+and the carpenter to see the temporary repairs properly done.
+
+Sometimes we had to drop everything and cling with both hands to the
+swaying spars, holding our breath in fear of a terribly heavy roll. And,
+wallowing as if she meant to turn over with us, the barque, her decks
+full of water, her gear flying in bights, ran at some ten knots an hour.
+We had been driven far south—much farther that way than we had meant to
+go; and suddenly, up there in the slings of the foreyard, in the midst of
+our work, I felt my shoulder gripped with such force in the carpenter’s
+powerful paw that I positively yelled with unexpected pain. The man’s
+eyes stared close in my face, and he shouted, “Look, sir! look! What’s
+this?” pointing ahead with his other hand.
+
+At first I saw nothing. The sea was one empty wilderness of black and
+white hills. Suddenly, half-concealed in the tumult of the foaming
+rollers I made out awash, something enormous, rising and
+falling—something spread out like a burst of foam, but with a more
+bluish, more solid look.
+
+It was a piece of an ice-floe melted down to a fragment, but still big
+enough to sink a ship, and floating lower than any raft, right in our
+way, as if ambushed among the waves with murderous intent. There was no
+time to get down on deck. I shouted from aloft till my head was ready to
+split. I was heard aft, and we managed to clear the sunken floe which
+had come all the way from the Southern ice-cap to have a try at our
+unsuspecting lives. Had it been an hour later, nothing could have saved
+the ship, for no eye could have made out in the dusk that pale piece of
+ice swept over by the white-crested waves.
+
+And as we stood near the taffrail side by side, my captain and I, looking
+at it, hardly discernible already, but still quite close-to on our
+quarter, he remarked in a meditative tone:
+
+“But for the turn of that wheel just in time, there would have been
+another case of a ‘missing’ ship.”
+
+Nobody ever comes back from a “missing” ship to tell how hard was the
+death of the craft, and how sudden and overwhelming the last anguish of
+her men. Nobody can say with what thoughts, with what regrets, with what
+words on their lips they died. But there is something fine in the sudden
+passing away of these hearts from the extremity of struggle and stress
+and tremendous uproar—from the vast, unrestful rage of the surface to the
+profound peace of the depths, sleeping untroubled since the beginning of
+ages.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+
+But if the word “missing” brings all hope to an end and settles the loss
+of the underwriters, the word “overdue” confirms the fears already born
+in many homes ashore, and opens the door of speculation in the market of
+risks.
+
+Maritime risks, be it understood. There is a class of optimists ready to
+reinsure an “overdue” ship at a heavy premium. But nothing can insure
+the hearts on shore against the bitterness of waiting for the worst.
+
+For if a “missing” ship has never turned up within the memory of seamen
+of my generation, the name of an “overdue” ship, trembling as it were on
+the edge of the fatal heading, has been known to appear as “arrived.”
+
+It must blaze up, indeed, with a great brilliance the dull printer’s ink
+expended on the assemblage of the few letters that form the ship’s name
+to the anxious eyes scanning the page in fear and trembling. It is like
+the message of reprieve from the sentence of sorrow suspended over many a
+home, even if some of the men in her have been the most homeless mortals
+that you may find among the wanderers of the sea.
+
+The reinsurer, the optimist of ill-luck and disaster, slaps his pocket
+with satisfaction. The underwriter, who had been trying to minimize the
+amount of impending loss, regrets his premature pessimism. The ship has
+been stauncher, the skies more merciful, the seas less angry, or perhaps
+the men on board of a finer temper than he has been willing to take for
+granted.
+
+“The ship So-and-so, bound to such a port, and posted as ‘overdue,’ has
+been reported yesterday as having arrived safely at her destination.”
+
+Thus run the official words of the reprieve addressed to the hearts
+ashore lying under a heavy sentence. And they come swiftly from the
+other side of the earth, over wires and cables, for your electric
+telegraph is a great alleviator of anxiety. Details, of course, shall
+follow. And they may unfold a tale of narrow escape, of steady ill-luck,
+of high winds and heavy weather, of ice, of interminable calms or endless
+head-gales; a tale of difficulties overcome, of adversity defied by a
+small knot of men upon the great loneliness of the sea; a tale of
+resource, of courage—of helplessness, perhaps.
+
+Of all ships disabled at sea, a steamer who has lost her propeller is the
+most helpless. And if she drifts into an unpopulated part of the ocean
+she may soon become overdue. The menace of the “overdue” and the
+finality of “missing” come very quickly to steamers whose life, fed on
+coals and breathing the black breath of smoke into the air, goes on in
+disregard of wind and wave. Such a one, a big steamship, too, whose
+working life had been a record of faithful keeping time from land to
+land, in disregard of wind and sea, once lost her propeller down south,
+on her passage out to New Zealand.
+
+It was the wintry, murky time of cold gales and heavy seas. With the
+snapping of her tail-shaft her life seemed suddenly to depart from her
+big body, and from a stubborn, arrogant existence she passed all at once
+into the passive state of a drifting log. A ship sick with her own
+weakness has not the pathos of a ship vanquished in a battle with the
+elements, wherein consists the inner drama of her life. No seaman can
+look without compassion upon a disabled ship, but to look at a
+sailing-vessel with her lofty spars gone is to look upon a defeated but
+indomitable warrior. There is defiance in the remaining stumps of her
+masts, raised up like maimed limbs against the menacing scowl of a stormy
+sky; there is high courage in the upward sweep of her lines towards the
+bow; and as soon as, on a hastily-rigged spar, a strip of canvas is shown
+to the wind to keep her head to sea, she faces the waves again with an
+unsubdued courage.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+
+The efficiency of a steamship consists not so much in her courage as in
+the power she carries within herself. It beats and throbs like a
+pulsating heart within her iron ribs, and when it stops, the steamer,
+whose life is not so much a contest as the disdainful ignoring of the
+sea, sickens and dies upon the waves. The sailing-ship, with her
+unthrobbing body, seemed to lead mysteriously a sort of unearthly
+existence, bordering upon the magic of the invisible forces, sustained by
+the inspiration of life-giving and death-dealing winds.
+
+So that big steamer, dying by a sudden stroke, drifted, an unwieldy
+corpse, away from the track of other ships. And she would have been
+posted really as “overdue,” or maybe as “missing,” had she not been
+sighted in a snowstorm, vaguely, like a strange rolling island, by a
+whaler going north from her Polar cruising ground. There was plenty of
+food on board, and I don’t know whether the nerves of her passengers were
+at all affected by anything else than the sense of interminable boredom
+or the vague fear of that unusual situation. Does a passenger ever feel
+the life of the ship in which he is being carried like a sort of honoured
+bale of highly sensitive goods? For a man who has never been a passenger
+it is impossible to say. But I know that there is no harder trial for a
+seaman than to feel a dead ship under his feet.
+
+There is no mistaking that sensation, so dismal, so tormenting and so
+subtle, so full of unhappiness and unrest. I could imagine no worse
+eternal punishment for evil seamen who die unrepentant upon the earthly
+sea than that their souls should be condemned to man the ghosts of
+disabled ships, drifting for ever across a ghostly and tempestuous ocean.
+
+She must have looked ghostly enough, that broken-down steamer, rolling in
+that snowstorm—a dark apparition in a world of white snowflakes to the
+staring eyes of that whaler’s crew. Evidently they didn’t believe in
+ghosts, for on arrival into port her captain unromantically reported
+having sighted a disabled steamer in latitude somewhere about 50 degrees
+S. and a longitude still more uncertain. Other steamers came out to look
+for her, and ultimately towed her away from the cold edge of the world
+into a harbour with docks and workshops, where, with many blows of
+hammers, her pulsating heart of steel was set going again to go forth
+presently in the renewed pride of its strength, fed on fire and water,
+breathing black smoke into the air, pulsating, throbbing, shouldering its
+arrogant way against the great rollers in blind disdain of winds and sea.
+
+The track she had made when drifting while her heart stood still within
+her iron ribs looked like a tangled thread on the white paper of the
+chart. It was shown to me by a friend, her second officer. In that
+surprising tangle there were words in minute letters—“gales,” “thick
+fog,” “ice”—written by him here and there as memoranda of the weather.
+She had interminably turned upon her tracks, she had crossed and
+recrossed her haphazard path till it resembled nothing so much as a
+puzzling maze of pencilled lines without a meaning. But in that maze
+there lurked all the romance of the “overdue” and a menacing hint of
+“missing.”
+
+“We had three weeks of it,” said my friend, “just think of that!”
+
+“How did you feel about it?” I asked.
+
+He waved his hand as much as to say: It’s all in the day’s work. But
+then, abruptly, as if making up his mind:
+
+“I’ll tell you. Towards the last I used to shut myself up in my berth
+and cry.”
+
+“Cry?”
+
+“Shed tears,” he explained briefly, and rolled up the chart.
+
+I can answer for it, he was a good man—as good as ever stepped upon a
+ship’s deck—but he could not bear the feeling of a dead ship under his
+feet: the sickly, disheartening feeling which the men of some “overdue”
+ships that come into harbour at last under a jury-rig must have felt,
+combated, and overcome in the faithful discharge of their duty.
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+
+IT is difficult for a seaman to believe that his stranded ship does not
+feel as unhappy at the unnatural predicament of having no water under her
+keel as he is himself at feeling her stranded.
+
+Stranding is, indeed, the reverse of sinking. The sea does not close
+upon the water-logged hull with a sunny ripple, or maybe with the angry
+rush of a curling wave, erasing her name from the roll of living ships.
+No. It is as if an invisible hand had been stealthily uplifted from the
+bottom to catch hold of her keel as it glides through the water.
+
+More than any other event does stranding bring to the sailor a sense of
+utter and dismal failure. There are strandings and strandings, but I am
+safe to say that 90 per cent. of them are occasions in which a sailor,
+without dishonour, may well wish himself dead; and I have no doubt that
+of those who had the experience of their ship taking the ground, 90 per
+cent. did actually for five seconds or so wish themselves dead.
+
+“Taking the ground” is the professional expression for a ship that is
+stranded in gentle circumstances. But the feeling is more as if the
+ground had taken hold of her. It is for those on her deck a surprising
+sensation. It is as if your feet had been caught in an imponderable
+snare; you feel the balance of your body threatened, and the steady poise
+of your mind is destroyed at once. This sensation lasts only a second,
+for even while you stagger something seems to turn over in your head,
+bringing uppermost the mental exclamation, full of astonishment and
+dismay, “By Jove! she’s on the ground!”
+
+And that is very terrible. After all, the only mission of a seaman’s
+calling is to keep ships’ keels off the ground. Thus the moment of her
+stranding takes away from him every excuse for his continued existence.
+To keep ships afloat is his business; it is his trust; it is the
+effective formula of the bottom of all these vague impulses, dreams, and
+illusions that go to the making up of a boy’s vocation. The grip of the
+land upon the keel of your ship, even if nothing worse comes of it than
+the wear and tear of tackle and the loss of time, remains in a seaman’s
+memory an indelibly fixed taste of disaster.
+
+“Stranded” within the meaning of this paper stands for a more or less
+excusable mistake. A ship may be “driven ashore” by stress of weather.
+It is a catastrophe, a defeat. To be “run ashore” has the littleness,
+poignancy, and bitterness of human error.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+
+That is why your “strandings” are for the most part so unexpected. In
+fact, they are all unexpected, except those heralded by some short
+glimpse of the danger, full of agitation and excitement, like an
+awakening from a dream of incredible folly.
+
+The land suddenly at night looms up right over your bows, or perhaps the
+cry of “Broken water ahead!” is raised, and some long mistake, some
+complicated edifice of self-delusion, over-confidence, and wrong
+reasoning is brought down in a fatal shock, and the heart-searing
+experience of your ship’s keel scraping and scrunching over, say, a coral
+reef. It is a sound, for its size, far more terrific to your soul than
+that of a world coming violently to an end. But out of that chaos your
+belief in your own prudence and sagacity reasserts itself. You ask
+yourself, Where on earth did I get to? How on earth did I get there?
+with a conviction that it could not be your own act, that there has been
+at work some mysterious conspiracy of accident; that the charts are all
+wrong, and if the charts are not wrong, that land and sea have changed
+their places; that your misfortune shall for ever remain inexplicable,
+since you have lived always with the sense of your trust, the last thing
+on closing your eyes, the first on opening them, as if your mind had kept
+firm hold of your responsibility during the hours of sleep.
+
+You contemplate mentally your mischance, till little by little your mood
+changes, cold doubt steals into the very marrow of your bones, you see
+the inexplicable fact in another light. That is the time when you ask
+yourself, How on earth could I have been fool enough to get there? And
+you are ready to renounce all belief in your good sense, in your
+knowledge, in your fidelity, in what you thought till then was the best
+in you, giving you the daily bread of life and the moral support of other
+men’s confidence.
+
+The ship is lost or not lost. Once stranded, you have to do your best by
+her. She may be saved by your efforts, by your resource and fortitude
+bearing up against the heavy weight of guilt and failure. And there are
+justifiable strandings in fogs, on uncharted seas, on dangerous shores,
+through treacherous tides. But, saved or not saved, there remains with
+her commander a distinct sense of loss, a flavour in the mouth of the
+real, abiding danger that lurks in all the forms of human existence. It
+is an acquisition, too, that feeling. A man may be the better for it,
+but he will not be the same. Damocles has seen the sword suspended by a
+hair over his head, and though a good man need not be made less valuable
+by such a knowledge, the feast shall not henceforth have the same
+flavour.
+
+Years ago I was concerned as chief mate in a case of stranding which was
+not fatal to the ship. We went to work for ten hours on end, laying out
+anchors in readiness to heave off at high water. While I was still busy
+about the decks forward I heard the steward at my elbow saying: “The
+captain asks whether you mean to come in, sir, and have something to eat
+to-day.”
+
+I went into the cuddy. My captain sat at the head of the table like a
+statue. There was a strange motionlessness of everything in that pretty
+little cabin. The swing-table which for seventy odd days had been always
+on the move, if ever so little, hung quite still above the soup-tureen.
+Nothing could have altered the rich colour of my commander’s complexion,
+laid on generously by wind and sea; but between the two tufts of fair
+hair above his ears, his skull, generally suffused with the hue of blood,
+shone dead white, like a dome of ivory. And he looked strangely untidy.
+I perceived he had not shaved himself that day; and yet the wildest
+motion of the ship in the most stormy latitudes we had passed through,
+never made him miss one single morning ever since we left the Channel.
+The fact must be that a commander cannot possibly shave himself when his
+ship is aground. I have commanded ships myself, but I don’t know; I have
+never tried to shave in my life.
+
+He did not offer to help me or himself till I had coughed markedly
+several times. I talked to him professionally in a cheery tone, and
+ended with the confident assertion:
+
+“We shall get her off before midnight, sir.”
+
+He smiled faintly without looking up, and muttered as if to himself:
+
+“Yes, yes; the captain put the ship ashore and we got her off.”
+
+Then, raising his head, he attacked grumpily the steward, a lanky,
+anxious youth with a long, pale face and two big front teeth.
+
+“What makes this soup so bitter? I am surprised the mate can swallow the
+beastly stuff. I’m sure the cook’s ladled some salt water into it by
+mistake.”
+
+The charge was so outrageous that the steward for all answer only dropped
+his eyelids bashfully.
+
+There was nothing the matter with the soup. I had a second helping. My
+heart was warm with hours of hard work at the head of a willing crew. I
+was elated with having handled heavy anchors, cables, boats without the
+slightest hitch; pleased with having laid out scientifically bower,
+stream, and kedge exactly where I believed they would do most good. On
+that occasion the bitter taste of a stranding was not for my mouth. That
+experience came later, and it was only then that I understood the
+loneliness of the man in charge.
+
+It’s the captain who puts the ship ashore; it’s we who get her off.
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+
+IT seems to me that no man born and truthful to himself could declare
+that he ever saw the sea looking young as the earth looks young in
+spring. But some of us, regarding the ocean with understanding and
+affection, have seen it looking old, as if the immemorial ages had been
+stirred up from the undisturbed bottom of ooze. For it is a gale of wind
+that makes the sea look old.
+
+From a distance of years, looking at the remembered aspects of the storms
+lived through, it is that impression which disengages itself clearly from
+the great body of impressions left by many years of intimate contact.
+
+If you would know the age of the earth, look upon the sea in a storm.
+The grayness of the whole immense surface, the wind furrows upon the
+faces of the waves, the great masses of foam, tossed about and waving,
+like matted white locks, give to the sea in a gale an appearance of hoary
+age, lustreless, dull, without gleams, as though it had been created
+before light itself.
+
+Looking back after much love and much trouble, the instinct of primitive
+man, who seeks to personify the forces of Nature for his affection and
+for his fear, is awakened again in the breast of one civilized beyond
+that stage even in his infancy. One seems to have known gales as
+enemies, and even as enemies one embraces them in that affectionate
+regret which clings to the past.
+
+Gales have their personalities, and, after all, perhaps it is not
+strange; for, when all is said and done, they are adversaries whose wiles
+you must defeat, whose violence you must resist, and yet with whom you
+must live in the intimacies of nights and days.
+
+Here speaks the man of masts and sails, to whom the sea is not a
+navigable element, but an intimate companion. The length of passages,
+the growing sense of solitude, the close dependence upon the very forces
+that, friendly to-day, without changing their nature, by the mere putting
+forth of their might, become dangerous to-morrow, make for that sense of
+fellowship which modern seamen, good men as they are, cannot hope to
+know. And, besides, your modern ship which is a steamship makes her
+passages on other principles than yielding to the weather and humouring
+the sea. She receives smashing blows, but she advances; it is a slogging
+fight, and not a scientific campaign. The machinery, the steel, the
+fire, the steam, have stepped in between the man and the sea. A modern
+fleet of ships does not so much make use of the sea as exploit a highway.
+The modern ship is not the sport of the waves. Let us say that each of
+her voyages is a triumphant progress; and yet it is a question whether it
+is not a more subtle and more human triumph to be the sport of the waves
+and yet survive, achieving your end.
+
+In his own time a man is always very modern. Whether the seamen of three
+hundred years hence will have the faculty of sympathy it is impossible to
+say. An incorrigible mankind hardens its heart in the progress of its
+own perfectability. How will they feel on seeing the illustrations to
+the sea novels of our day, or of our yesterday? It is impossible to
+guess. But the seaman of the last generation, brought into sympathy with
+the caravels of ancient time by his sailing-ship, their lineal
+descendant, cannot look upon those lumbering forms navigating the naïve
+seas of ancient woodcuts without a feeling of surprise, of affectionate
+derision, envy, and admiration. For those things, whose
+unmanageableness, even when represented on paper, makes one gasp with a
+sort of amused horror, were manned by men who are his direct professional
+ancestors.
+
+No; the seamen of three hundred years hence will probably be neither
+touched nor moved to derision, affection, or admiration. They will
+glance at the photogravures of our nearly defunct sailing-ships with a
+cold, inquisitive and indifferent eye. Our ships of yesterday will stand
+to their ships as no lineal ancestors, but as mere predecessors whose
+course will have been run and the race extinct. Whatever craft he
+handles with skill, the seaman of the future shall be, not our
+descendant, but only our successor.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+
+And so much depends upon the craft which, made by man, is one with man,
+that the sea shall wear for him another aspect. I remember once seeing
+the commander—officially the master, by courtesy the captain—of a fine
+iron ship of the old wool fleet shaking his head at a very pretty
+brigantine. She was bound the other way. She was a taut, trim, neat
+little craft, extremely well kept; and on that serene evening when we
+passed her close she looked the embodiment of coquettish comfort on the
+sea. It was somewhere near the Cape—_The_ Cape being, of course, the
+Cape of Good Hope, the Cape of Storms of its Portuguese discoverer. And
+whether it is that the word “storm” should not be pronounced upon the sea
+where the storms dwell thickly, or because men are shy of confessing
+their good hopes, it has become the nameless cape—the Cape _tout court_.
+The other great cape of the world, strangely enough, is seldom if ever
+called a cape. We say, “a voyage round the Horn”; “we rounded the Horn”;
+“we got a frightful battering off the Horn”; but rarely “Cape Horn,” and,
+indeed, with some reason, for Cape Horn is as much an island as a cape.
+The third stormy cape of the world, which is the Leeuwin, receives
+generally its full name, as if to console its second-rate dignity. These
+are the capes that look upon the gales.
+
+The little brigantine, then, had doubled the Cape. Perhaps she was
+coming from Port Elizabeth, from East London—who knows? It was many
+years ago, but I remember well the captain of the wool-clipper nodding at
+her with the words, “Fancy having to go about the sea in a thing like
+that!”
+
+He was a man brought up in big deep-water ships, and the size of the
+craft under his feet was a part of his conception of the sea. His own
+ship was certainly big as ships went then. He may have thought of the
+size of his cabin, or—unconsciously, perhaps—have conjured up a vision of
+a vessel so small tossing amongst the great seas. I didn’t inquire, and
+to a young second mate the captain of the little pretty brigantine,
+sitting astride a camp stool with his chin resting on his hands that were
+crossed upon the rail, might have appeared a minor king amongst men. We
+passed her within earshot, without a hail, reading each other’s names
+with the naked eye.
+
+Some years later, the second mate, the recipient of that almost
+involuntary mutter, could have told his captain that a man brought up in
+big ships may yet take a peculiar delight in what we should both then
+have called a small craft. Probably the captain of the big ship would
+not have understood very well. His answer would have been a gruff, “Give
+me size,” as I heard another man reply to a remark praising the handiness
+of a small vessel. It was not a love of the grandiose or the prestige
+attached to the command of great tonnage, for he continued, with an air
+of disgust and contempt, “Why, you get flung out of your bunk as likely
+as not in any sort of heavy weather.”
+
+I don’t know. I remember a few nights in my lifetime, and in a big ship,
+too (as big as they made them then), when one did not get flung out of
+one’s bed simply because one never even attempted to get in; one had been
+made too weary, too hopeless, to try. The expedient of turning your
+bedding out on to a damp floor and lying on it there was no earthly good,
+since you could not keep your place or get a second’s rest in that or any
+other position. But of the delight of seeing a small craft run bravely
+amongst the great seas there can be no question to him whose soul does
+not dwell ashore. Thus I well remember a three days’ run got out of a
+little barque of 400 tons somewhere between the islands of St. Paul and
+Amsterdam and Cape Otway on the Australian coast. It was a hard, long
+gale, gray clouds and green sea, heavy weather undoubtedly, but still
+what a sailor would call manageable. Under two lower topsails and a
+reefed foresail the barque seemed to race with a long, steady sea that
+did not becalm her in the troughs. The solemn thundering combers caught
+her up from astern, passed her with a fierce boiling up of foam level
+with the bulwarks, swept on ahead with a swish and a roar: and the little
+vessel, dipping her jib-boom into the tumbling froth, would go on running
+in a smooth, glassy hollow, a deep valley between two ridges of the sea,
+hiding the horizon ahead and astern. There was such fascination in her
+pluck, nimbleness, the continual exhibition of unfailing seaworthiness,
+in the semblance of courage and endurance, that I could not give up the
+delight of watching her run through the three unforgettable days of that
+gale which my mate also delighted to extol as “a famous shove.”
+
+And this is one of those gales whose memory in after-years returns,
+welcome in dignified austerity, as you would remember with pleasure the
+noble features of a stranger with whom you crossed swords once in
+knightly encounter and are never to see again. In this way gales have
+their physiognomy. You remember them by your own feelings, and no two
+gales stamp themselves in the same way upon your emotions. Some cling to
+you in woebegone misery; others come back fiercely and weirdly, like
+ghouls bent upon sucking your strength away; others, again, have a
+catastrophic splendour; some are unvenerated recollections, as of
+spiteful wild-cats clawing at your agonized vitals; others are severe,
+like a visitation; and one or two rise up draped and mysterious, with an
+aspect of ominous menace. In each of them there is a characteristic
+point at which the whole feeling seems contained in one single moment.
+Thus there is a certain four o’clock in the morning in the confused roar
+of a black and white world when coming on deck to take charge of my watch
+I received the instantaneous impression that the ship could not live for
+another hour in such a raging sea.
+
+I wonder what became of the men who silently (you couldn’t hear yourself
+speak) must have shared that conviction with me. To be left to write
+about it is not, perhaps, the most enviable fate; but the point is that
+this impression resumes in its intensity the whole recollection of days
+and days of desperately dangerous weather. We were then, for reasons
+which it is not worth while to specify, in the close neighbourhood of
+Kerguelen Land; and now, when I open an atlas and look at the tiny dots
+on the map of the Southern Ocean, I see as if engraved upon the paper the
+enraged physiognomy of that gale.
+
+Another, strangely, recalls a silent man. And yet it was not din that
+was wanting; in fact, it was terrific. That one was a gale that came
+upon the ship swiftly, like a parnpero, which last is a very sudden wind
+indeed. Before we knew very well what was coming all the sails we had
+set had burst; the furled ones were blowing loose, ropes flying, sea
+hissing—it hissed tremendously—wind howling, and the ship lying on her
+side, so that half of the crew were swimming and the other half clawing
+desperately at whatever came to hand, according to the side of the deck
+each man had been caught on by the catastrophe, either to leeward or to
+windward. The shouting I need not mention—it was the merest drop in an
+ocean of noise—and yet the character of the gale seems contained in the
+recollection of one small, not particularly impressive, sallow man
+without a cap and with a very still face. Captain Jones—let us call him
+Jones—had been caught unawares. Two orders he had given at the first
+sign of an utterly unforeseen onset; after that the magnitude of his
+mistake seemed to have overwhelmed him. We were doing what was needed
+and feasible. The ship behaved well. Of course, it was some time before
+we could pause in our fierce and laborious exertions; but all through the
+work, the excitement, the uproar, and some dismay, we were aware of this
+silent little man at the break of the poop, perfectly motionless,
+soundless, and often hidden from us by the drift of sprays.
+
+When we officers clambered at last upon the poop, he seemed to come out
+of that numbed composure, and shouted to us down wind: “Try the pumps.”
+Afterwards he disappeared. As to the ship, I need not say that, although
+she was presently swallowed up in one of the blackest nights I can
+remember, she did not disappear. In truth, I don’t fancy that there had
+ever been much danger of that, but certainly the experience was noisy and
+particularly distracting—and yet it is the memory of a very quiet silence
+that survives.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV.
+
+
+For, after all, a gale of wind, the thing of mighty sound, is
+inarticulate. It is man who, in a chance phrase, interprets the
+elemental passion of his enemy. Thus there is another gale in my memory,
+a thing of endless, deep, humming roar, moonlight, and a spoken sentence.
+
+It was off that other cape which is always deprived of its title as the
+Cape of Good Hope is robbed of its name. It was off the Horn. For a
+true expression of dishevelled wildness there is nothing like a gale in
+the bright moonlight of a high latitude.
+
+The ship, brought-to and bowing to enormous flashing seas, glistened wet
+from deck to trucks; her one set sail stood out a coal-black shape upon
+the gloomy blueness of the air. I was a youngster then, and suffering
+from weariness, cold, and imperfect oilskins which let water in at every
+seam. I craved human companionship, and, coming off the poop, took my
+place by the side of the boatswain (a man whom I did not like) in a
+comparatively dry spot where at worst we had water only up to our knees.
+Above our heads the explosive booming gusts of wind passed continuously,
+justifying the sailor’s saying “It blows great guns.” And just from that
+need of human companionship, being very close to the man, I said, or
+rather shouted:
+
+“Blows very hard, boatswain.”
+
+His answer was:
+
+“Ay, and if it blows only a little harder things will begin to go. I
+don’t mind as long as everything holds, but when things begin to go it’s
+bad.”
+
+The note of dread in the shouting voice, the practical truth of these
+words, heard years ago from a man I did not like, have stamped its
+peculiar character on that gale.
+
+A look in the eyes of a shipmate, a low murmur in the most sheltered spot
+where the watch on duty are huddled together, a meaning moan from one to
+the other with a glance at the windward sky, a sigh of weariness, a
+gesture of disgust passing into the keeping of the great wind, become
+part and parcel of the gale. The olive hue of hurricane clouds presents
+an aspect peculiarly appalling. The inky ragged wrack, flying before a
+nor’-west wind, makes you dizzy with its headlong speed that depicts the
+rush of the invisible air. A hard sou’-wester startles you with its
+close horizon and its low gray sky, as if the world were a dungeon
+wherein there is no rest for body or soul. And there are black squalls,
+white squalls, thunder squalls, and unexpected gusts that come without a
+single sign in the sky; and of each kind no one of them resembles
+another.
+
+There is infinite variety in the gales of wind at sea, and except for the
+peculiar, terrible, and mysterious moaning that may be heard sometimes
+passing through the roar of a hurricane—except for that unforgettable
+sound, as if the soul of the universe had been goaded into a mournful
+groan—it is, after all, the human voice that stamps the mark of human
+consciousness upon the character of a gale.
+
+
+
+
+XXV.
+
+
+THERE is no part of the world of coasts, continents, oceans, seas,
+straits, capes, and islands which is not under the sway of a reigning
+wind, the sovereign of its typical weather. The wind rules the aspects
+of the sky and the action of the sea. But no wind rules unchallenged his
+realm of land and water. As with the kingdoms of the earth, there are
+regions more turbulent than others. In the middle belt of the earth the
+Trade Winds reign supreme, undisputed, like monarchs of long-settled
+kingdoms, whose traditional power, checking all undue ambitions, is not
+so much an exercise of personal might as the working of long-established
+institutions. The intertropical kingdoms of the Trade Winds are
+favourable to the ordinary life of a merchantman. The trumpet-call of
+strife is seldom borne on their wings to the watchful ears of men on the
+decks of ships. The regions ruled by the north-east and south-east Trade
+Winds are serene. In a southern-going ship, bound out for a long voyage,
+the passage through their dominions is characterized by a relaxation of
+strain and vigilance on the part of the seamen. Those citizens of the
+ocean feel sheltered under the ægis of an uncontested law, of an
+undisputed dynasty. There, indeed, if anywhere on earth, the weather may
+be trusted.
+
+Yet not too implicitly. Even in the constitutional realm of Trade Winds,
+north and south of the equator, ships are overtaken by strange
+disturbances. Still, the easterly winds, and, generally speaking, the
+easterly weather all the world over, is characterized by regularity and
+persistence.
+
+As a ruler, the East Wind has a remarkable stability; as an invader of
+the high latitudes lying under the tumultuous sway of his great brother,
+the Wind of the West, he is extremely difficult to dislodge, by the
+reason of his cold craftiness and profound duplicity.
+
+The narrow seas around these isles, where British admirals keep watch and
+ward upon the marches of the Atlantic Ocean, are subject to the turbulent
+sway of the West Wind. Call it north-west or south-west, it is all one—a
+different phase of the same character, a changed expression on the same
+face. In the orientation of the winds that rule the seas, the north and
+south directions are of no importance. There are no North and South
+Winds of any account upon this earth. The North and South Winds are but
+small princes in the dynasties that make peace and war upon the sea.
+They never assert themselves upon a vast stage. They depend upon local
+causes—the configuration of coasts, the shapes of straits, the accidents
+of bold promontories round which they play their little part. In the
+polity of winds, as amongst the tribes of the earth, the real struggle
+lies between East and West.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI.
+
+
+The West Wind reigns over the seas surrounding the coasts of these
+kingdoms; and from the gateways of the channels, from promontories as if
+from watch-towers, from estuaries of rivers as if from postern gates,
+from passage-ways, inlets, straits, firths, the garrison of the Isle and
+the crews of the ships going and returning look to the westward to judge
+by the varied splendours of his sunset mantle the mood of that arbitrary
+ruler. The end of the day is the time to gaze at the kingly face of the
+Westerly Weather, who is the arbiter of ships’ destinies. Benignant and
+splendid, or splendid and sinister, the western sky reflects the hidden
+purposes of the royal mind. Clothed in a mantle of dazzling gold or
+draped in rags of black clouds like a beggar, the might of the Westerly
+Wind sits enthroned upon the western horizon with the whole North
+Atlantic as a footstool for his feet and the first twinkling stars making
+a diadem for his brow. Then the seamen, attentive courtiers of the
+weather, think of regulating the conduct of their ships by the mood of
+the master. The West Wind is too great a king to be a dissembler: he is
+no calculator plotting deep schemes in a sombre heart; he is too strong
+for small artifices; there is passion in all his moods, even in the soft
+mood of his serene days, in the grace of his blue sky whose immense and
+unfathomable tenderness reflected in the mirror of the sea embraces,
+possesses, lulls to sleep the ships with white sails. He is all things
+to all oceans; he is like a poet seated upon a throne—magnificent,
+simple, barbarous, pensive, generous, impulsive, changeable,
+unfathomable—but when you understand him, always the same. Some of his
+sunsets are like pageants devised for the delight of the multitude, when
+all the gems of the royal treasure-house are displayed above the sea.
+Others are like the opening of his royal confidence, tinged with thoughts
+of sadness and compassion in a melancholy splendour meditating upon the
+short-lived peace of the waters. And I have seen him put the pent-up
+anger of his heart into the aspect of the inaccessible sun, and cause it
+to glare fiercely like the eye of an implacable autocrat out of a pale
+and frightened sky.
+
+He is the war-lord who sends his battalions of Atlantic rollers to the
+assault of our seaboard. The compelling voice of the West Wind musters
+up to his service all the might of the ocean. At the bidding of the West
+Wind there arises a great commotion in the sky above these Islands, and a
+great rush of waters falls upon our shores. The sky of the westerly
+weather is full of flying clouds, of great big white clouds coming
+thicker and thicker till they seem to stand welded into a solid canopy,
+upon whose gray face the lower wrack of the gale, thin, black and
+angry-looking, flies past with vertiginous speed. Denser and denser
+grows this dome of vapours, descending lower and lower upon the sea,
+narrowing the horizon around the ship. And the characteristic aspect of
+westerly weather, the thick, gray, smoky and sinister tone sets in,
+circumscribing the view of the men, drenching their bodies, oppressing
+their souls, taking their breath away with booming gusts, deafening,
+blinding, driving, rushing them onwards in a swaying ship towards our
+coasts lost in mists and rain.
+
+The caprice of the winds, like the wilfulness of men, is fraught with the
+disastrous consequences of self-indulgence. Long anger, the sense of his
+uncontrolled power, spoils the frank and generous nature of the West
+Wind. It is as if his heart were corrupted by a malevolent and brooding
+rancour. He devastates his own kingdom in the wantonness of his force.
+South-west is the quarter of the heavens where he presents his darkened
+brow. He breathes his rage in terrific squalls, and overwhelms his realm
+with an inexhaustible welter of clouds. He strews the seeds of anxiety
+upon the decks of scudding ships, makes the foam-stripped ocean look old,
+and sprinkles with gray hairs the heads of ship-masters in the
+homeward-bound ships running for the Channel. The Westerly Wind
+asserting his sway from the south-west quarter is often like a monarch
+gone mad, driving forth with wild imprecations the most faithful of his
+courtiers to shipwreck, disaster, and death.
+
+The south-westerly weather is the thick weather _par excellence_. It is
+not the thickness of the fog; it is rather a contraction of the horizon,
+a mysterious veiling of the shores with clouds that seem to make a
+low-vaulted dungeon around the running ship. It is not blindness; it is
+a shortening of the sight. The West Wind does not say to the seaman,
+“You shall be blind”; it restricts merely the range of his vision and
+raises the dread of land within his breast. It makes of him a man robbed
+of half his force, of half his efficiency. Many times in my life,
+standing in long sea-boots and streaming oilskins at the elbow of my
+commander on the poop of a homeward-bound ship making for the Channel,
+and gazing ahead into the gray and tormented waste, I have heard a weary
+sigh shape itself into a studiously casual comment:
+
+“Can’t see very far in this weather.”
+
+And have made answer in the same low, perfunctory tone
+
+“No, sir.”
+
+It would be merely the instinctive voicing of an ever-present thought
+associated closely with the consciousness of the land somewhere ahead and
+of the great speed of the ship. Fair wind, fair wind! Who would dare to
+grumble at a fair wind? It was a favour of the Western King, who rules
+masterfully the North Atlantic from the latitude of the Azores to the
+latitude of Cape Farewell. A famous shove this to end a good passage
+with; and yet, somehow, one could not muster upon one’s lips the smile of
+a courtier’s gratitude. This favour was dispensed to you from under an
+overbearing scowl, which is the true expression of the great autocrat
+when he has made up his mind to give a battering to some ships and to
+hunt certain others home in one breath of cruelty and benevolence,
+equally distracting.
+
+“No, sir. Can’t see very far.”
+
+Thus would the mate’s voice repeat the thought of the master, both gazing
+ahead, while under their feet the ship rushes at some twelve knots in the
+direction of the lee shore; and only a couple of miles in front of her
+swinging and dripping jib-boom, carried naked with an upward slant like a
+spear, a gray horizon closes the view with a multitude of waves surging
+upwards violently as if to strike at the stooping clouds.
+
+Awful and threatening scowls darken the face of the West Wind in his
+clouded, south-west mood; and from the King’s throne-hall in the western
+board stronger gusts reach you, like the fierce shouts of raving fury to
+which only the gloomy grandeur of the scene imparts a saving dignity. A
+shower pelts the deck and the sails of the ship as if flung with a scream
+by an angry hand; and when the night closes in, the night of a
+south-westerly gale, it seems more hopeless than the shade of Hades. The
+south-westerly mood of the great West Wind is a lightless mood, without
+sun, moon, or stars, with no gleam of light but the phosphorescent
+flashes of the great sheets of foam that, boiling up on each side of the
+ship, fling bluish gleams upon her dark and narrow hull, rolling as she
+runs, chased by enormous seas, distracted in the tumult.
+
+There are some bad nights in the kingdom of the West Wind for
+homeward-bound ships making for the Channel; and the days of wrath dawn
+upon them colourless and vague like the timid turning up of invisible
+lights upon the scene of a tyrannical and passionate outbreak, awful in
+the monotony of its method and the increasing strength of its violence.
+It is the same wind, the same clouds, the same wildly racing seas, the
+same thick horizon around the ship. Only the wind is stronger, the
+clouds seem denser and more overwhelming, the waves appear to have grown
+bigger and more threatening during the night. The hours, whose minutes
+are marked by the crash of the breaking seas, slip by with the screaming,
+pelting squalls overtaking the ship as she runs on and on with darkened
+canvas, with streaming spars and dripping ropes. The down-pours thicken.
+Preceding each shower a mysterious gloom, like the passage of a shadow
+above the firmament of gray clouds, filters down upon the ship. Now and
+then the rain pours upon your head in streams as if from spouts. It
+seems as if your ship were going to be drowned before she sank, as if all
+atmosphere had turned to water. You gasp, you splutter, you are blinded
+and deafened, you are submerged, obliterated, dissolved, annihilated,
+streaming all over as if your limbs, too, had turned to water. And every
+nerve on the alert you watch for the clearing-up mood of the Western
+King, that shall come with a shift of wind as likely as not to whip all
+the three masts out of your ship in the twinkling of an eye.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII.
+
+
+Heralded by the increasing fierceness of the squalls, sometimes by a
+faint flash of lightning like the signal of a lighted torch waved far
+away behind the clouds, the shift of wind comes at last, the crucial
+moment of the change from the brooding and veiled violence of the
+south-west gale to the sparkling, flashing, cutting, clear-eyed anger of
+the King’s north-westerly mood. You behold another phase of his passion,
+a fury bejewelled with stars, mayhap bearing the crescent of the moon on
+its brow, shaking the last vestiges of its torn cloud-mantle in
+inky-black squalls, with hail and sleet descending like showers of
+crystals and pearls, bounding off the spars, drumming on the sails,
+pattering on the oilskin coats, whitening the decks of homeward-bound
+ships. Faint, ruddy flashes of lightning flicker in the starlight upon
+her mastheads. A chilly blast hums in the taut rigging, causing the ship
+to tremble to her very keel, and the soaked men on her decks to shiver in
+their wet clothes to the very marrow of their bones. Before one squall
+has flown over to sink in the eastern board, the edge of another peeps up
+already above the western horizon, racing up swift, shapeless, like a
+black bag full of frozen water ready to burst over your devoted head.
+The temper of the ruler of the ocean has changed. Each gust of the
+clouded mood that seemed warmed by the heat of a heart flaming with anger
+has its counterpart in the chilly blasts that seem blown from a breast
+turned to ice with a sudden revulsion of feeling. Instead of blinding
+your eyes and crushing your soul with a terrible apparatus of cloud and
+mists and seas and rain, the King of the West turns his power to
+contemptuous pelting of your back with icicles, to making your weary eyes
+water as if in grief, and your worn-out carcass quake pitifully. But
+each mood of the great autocrat has its own greatness, and each is hard
+to bear. Only the north-west phase of that mighty display is not
+demoralizing to the same extent, because between the hail and sleet
+squalls of a north-westerly gale one can see a long way ahead.
+
+To see! to see!—this is the craving of the sailor, as of the rest of
+blind humanity. To have his path made clear for him is the aspiration of
+every human being in our beclouded and tempestuous existence. I have
+heard a reserved, silent man, with no nerves to speak of, after three
+days of hard running in thick south-westerly weather, burst out
+passionately: “I wish to God we could get sight of something!”
+
+We had just gone down below for a moment to commune in a battened-down
+cabin, with a large white chart lying limp and damp upon a cold and
+clammy table under the light of a smoky lamp. Sprawling over that
+seaman’s silent and trusted adviser, with one elbow upon the coast of
+Africa and the other planted in the neighbourhood of Cape Hatteras (it
+was a general track-chart of the North Atlantic), my skipper lifted his
+rugged, hairy face, and glared at me in a half-exasperated,
+half-appealing way. We have seen no sun, moon, or stars for something
+like seven days. By the effect of the West Wind’s wrath the celestial
+bodies had gone into hiding for a week or more, and the last three days
+had seen the force of a south-west gale grow from fresh, through strong,
+to heavy, as the entries in my log-book could testify. Then we
+separated, he to go on deck again, in obedience to that mysterious call
+that seems to sound for ever in a shipmaster’s ears, I to stagger into my
+cabin with some vague notion of putting down the words “Very heavy
+weather” in a log-book not quite written up-to-date. But I gave it up,
+and crawled into my bunk instead, boots and hat on, all standing (it did
+not matter; everything was soaking wet, a heavy sea having burst the poop
+skylights the night before), to remain in a nightmarish state between
+waking and sleeping for a couple of hours of so-called rest.
+
+The south-westerly mood of the West Wind is an enemy of sleep, and even
+of a recumbent position, in the responsible officers of a ship. After
+two hours of futile, light-headed, inconsequent thinking upon all things
+under heaven in that dark, dank, wet and devastated cabin, I arose
+suddenly and staggered up on deck. The autocrat of the North Atlantic
+was still oppressing his kingdom and its outlying dependencies, even as
+far as the Bay of Biscay, in the dismal secrecy of thick, very thick,
+weather. The force of the wind, though we were running before it at the
+rate of some ten knots an hour, was so great that it drove me with a
+steady push to the front of the poop, where my commander was holding on.
+
+“What do you think of it?” he addressed me in an interrogative yell.
+
+What I really thought was that we both had had just about enough of it.
+The manner in which the great West Wind chooses at times to administer
+his possessions does not commend itself to a person of peaceful and
+law-abiding disposition, inclined to draw distinctions between right and
+wrong in the face of natural forces, whose standard, naturally, is that
+of might alone. But, of course, I said nothing. For a man caught, as it
+were, between his skipper and the great West Wind silence is the safest
+sort of diplomacy. Moreover, I knew my skipper. He did not want to know
+what I thought. Shipmasters hanging on a breath before the thrones of
+the winds ruling the seas have their psychology, whose workings are as
+important to the ship and those on board of her as the changing moods of
+the weather. The man, as a matter of fact, under no circumstances, ever
+cared a brass farthing for what I or anybody else in his ship thought.
+He had had just about enough of it, I guessed, and what he was at really
+was a process of fishing for a suggestion. It was the pride of his life
+that he had never wasted a chance, no matter how boisterous, threatening,
+and dangerous, of a fair wind. Like men racing blindfold for a gap in a
+hedge, we were finishing a splendidly quick passage from the Antipodes,
+with a tremendous rush for the Channel in as thick a weather as any I can
+remember, but his psychology did not permit him to bring the ship to with
+a fair wind blowing—at least not on his own initiative. And yet he felt
+that very soon indeed something would have to be done. He wanted the
+suggestion to come from me, so that later on, when the trouble was over,
+he could argue this point with his own uncompromising spirit, laying the
+blame upon my shoulders. I must render him the justice that this sort of
+pride was his only weakness.
+
+But he got no suggestion from me. I understood his psychology. Besides,
+I had my own stock of weaknesses at the time (it is a different one now),
+and amongst them was the conceit of being remarkably well up in the
+psychology of the Westerly weather. I believed—not to mince matters—that
+I had a genius for reading the mind of the great ruler of high latitudes.
+I fancied I could discern already the coming of a change in his royal
+mood. And all I said was:
+
+“The weather’s bound to clear up with the shift of wind.”
+
+“Anybody knows that much!” he snapped at me, at the highest pitch of his
+voice.
+
+“I mean before dark!” I cried.
+
+This was all the opening he ever got from me. The eagerness with which
+he seized upon it gave me the measure of the anxiety he had been
+labouring under.
+
+“Very well,” he shouted, with an affectation of impatience, as if giving
+way to long entreaties. “All right. If we don’t get a shift by then
+we’ll take that foresail off her and put her head under her wing for the
+night.”
+
+I was struck by the picturesque character of the phrase as applied to a
+ship brought-to in order to ride out a gale with wave after wave passing
+under her breast. I could see her resting in the tumult of the elements
+like a sea-bird sleeping in wild weather upon the raging waters with its
+head tucked under its wing. In imaginative precision, in true feeling,
+this is one of the most expressive sentences I have ever heard on human
+lips. But as to taking the foresail off that ship before we put her head
+under her wing, I had my grave doubts. They were justified. That long
+enduring piece of canvas was confiscated by the arbitrary decree of the
+West Wind, to whom belong the lives of men and the contrivances of their
+hands within the limits of his kingdom. With the sound of a faint
+explosion it vanished into the thick weather bodily, leaving behind of
+its stout substance not so much as one solitary strip big enough to be
+picked into a handful of lint for, say, a wounded elephant. Torn out of
+its bolt-ropes, it faded like a whiff of smoke in the smoky drift of
+clouds shattered and torn by the shift of wind. For the shift of wind
+had come. The unveiled, low sun glared angrily from a chaotic sky upon a
+confused and tremendous sea dashing itself upon a coast. We recognised
+the headland, and looked at each other in the silence of dumb wonder.
+Without knowing it in the least, we had run up alongside the Isle of
+Wight, and that tower, tinged a faint evening red in the salt wind-haze,
+was the lighthouse on St. Catherine’s Point.
+
+My skipper recovered first from his astonishment. His bulging eyes sank
+back gradually into their orbits. His psychology, taking it all round,
+was really very creditable for an average sailor. He had been spared the
+humiliation of laying his ship to with a fair wind; and at once that man,
+of an open and truthful nature, spoke up in perfect good faith, rubbing
+together his brown, hairy hands—the hands of a master-craftsman upon the
+sea:
+
+“Humph! that’s just about where I reckoned we had got to.”
+
+The transparency and ingenuousness, in a way, of that delusion, the airy
+tone, the hint of already growing pride, were perfectly delicious. But,
+in truth, this was one of the greatest surprises ever sprung by the
+clearing up mood of the West Wind upon one of the most accomplished of
+his courtiers.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII.
+
+
+The winds of North and South are, as I have said, but small princes
+amongst the powers of the sea. They have no territory of their own; they
+are not reigning winds anywhere. Yet it is from their houses that the
+reigning dynasties which have shared between them the waters of the earth
+are sprung. All the weather of the world is based upon the contest of
+the Polar and Equatorial strains of that tyrannous race. The West Wind
+is the greatest king. The East rules between the Tropics. They have
+shared each ocean between them. Each has his genius of supreme rule.
+The King of the West never intrudes upon the recognised dominion of his
+kingly brother. He is a barbarian, of a northern type. Violent without
+craftiness, and furious without malice, one may imagine him seated
+masterfully with a double-edged sword on his knees upon the painted and
+gilt clouds of the sunset, bowing his shock head of golden locks, a
+flaming beard over his breast, imposing, colossal, mighty-limbed, with a
+thundering voice, distended cheeks and fierce blue eyes, urging the speed
+of his gales. The other, the East king, the king of blood-red sunrises,
+I represent to myself as a spare Southerner with clear-cut features,
+black-browed and dark-eyed, gray-robed, upright in sunshine, resting a
+smooth-shaven cheek in the palm of his hand, impenetrable, secret, full
+of wiles, fine-drawn, keen—meditating aggressions.
+
+The West Wind keeps faith with his brother, the King of the Easterly
+weather. “What we have divided we have divided,” he seems to say in his
+gruff voice, this ruler without guile, who hurls as if in sport enormous
+masses of cloud across the sky, and flings the great waves of the
+Atlantic clear across from the shores of the New World upon the hoary
+headlands of Old Europe, which harbours more kings and rulers upon its
+seamed and furrowed body than all the oceans of the world together.
+“What we have divided we have divided; and if no rest and peace in this
+world have fallen to my share, leave me alone. Let me play at quoits
+with cyclonic gales, flinging the discs of spinning cloud and whirling
+air from one end of my dismal kingdom to the other: over the Great Banks
+or along the edges of pack-ice—this one with true aim right into the
+bight of the Bay of Biscay, that other upon the fiords of Norway, across
+the North Sea where the fishermen of many nations look watchfully into my
+angry eye. This is the time of kingly sport.”
+
+And the royal master of high latitudes sighs mightily, with the sinking
+sun upon his breast and the double-edged sword upon his knees, as if
+wearied by the innumerable centuries of a strenuous rule and saddened by
+the unchangeable aspect of the ocean under his feet—by the endless vista
+of future ages where the work of sowing the wind and reaping the
+whirlwind shall go on and on till his realm of living waters becomes a
+frozen and motionless ocean. But the other, crafty and unmoved, nursing
+his shaven chin between the thumb and forefinger of his slim and
+treacherous hand, thinks deep within his heart full of guile: “Aha! our
+brother of the West has fallen into the mood of kingly melancholy. He is
+tired of playing with circular gales, and blowing great guns, and
+unrolling thick streamers of fog in wanton sport at the cost of his own
+poor, miserable subjects. Their fate is most pitiful. Let us make a
+foray upon the dominions of that noisy barbarian, a great raid from
+Finisterre to Hatteras, catching his fishermen unawares, baffling the
+fleets that trust to his power, and shooting sly arrows into the livers
+of men who court his good graces. He is, indeed, a worthless fellow.”
+And forthwith, while the West Wind meditates upon the vanity of his
+irresistible might, the thing is done, and the Easterly weather sets in
+upon the North Atlantic.
+
+The prevailing weather of the North Atlantic is typical of the way in
+which the West Wind rules his realm on which the sun never sets. North
+Atlantic is the heart of a great empire. It is the part of the West
+Wind’s dominions most thickly populated with generations of fine ships
+and hardy men. Heroic deeds and adventurous exploits have been performed
+there, within the very stronghold of his sway. The best sailors in the
+world have been born and bred under the shadow of his sceptre, learning
+to manage their ships with skill and audacity before the steps of his
+stormy throne. Reckless adventurers, toiling fishermen, admirals as wise
+and brave as the world has ever known, have waited upon the signs of his
+westerly sky. Fleets of victorious ships have hung upon his breath. He
+has tossed in his hand squadrons of war-scarred three-deckers, and
+shredded out in mere sport the bunting of flags hallowed in the
+traditions of honour and glory. He is a good friend and a dangerous
+enemy, without mercy to unseaworthy ships and faint-hearted seamen. In
+his kingly way he has taken but little account of lives sacrificed to his
+impulsive policy; he is a king with a double-edged sword bared in his
+right hand. The East Wind, an interloper in the dominions of Westerly
+weather, is an impassive-faced tyrant with a sharp poniard held behind
+his back for a treacherous stab.
+
+In his forays into the North Atlantic the East Wind behaves like a subtle
+and cruel adventurer without a notion of honour or fair play. Veiling
+his clear-cut, lean face in a thin layer of a hard, high cloud, I have
+seen him, like a wizened robber sheik of the sea, hold up large caravans
+of ships to the number of three hundred or more at the very gates of the
+English Channel. And the worst of it was that there was no ransom that
+we could pay to satisfy his avidity; for whatever evil is wrought by the
+raiding East Wind, it is done only to spite his kingly brother of the
+West. We gazed helplessly at the systematic, cold, gray-eyed obstinacy
+of the Easterly weather, while short rations became the order of the day,
+and the pinch of hunger under the breast-bone grew familiar to every
+sailor in that held-up fleet. Every day added to our numbers. In knots
+and groups and straggling parties we flung to and fro before the closed
+gate. And meantime the outward-bound ships passed, running through our
+humiliated ranks under all the canvas they could show. It is my idea
+that the Easterly Wind helps the ships away from home in the wicked hope
+that they shall all come to an untimely end and be heard of no more. For
+six weeks did the robber sheik hold the trade route of the earth, while
+our liege lord, the West Wind, slept profoundly like a tired Titan, or
+else remained lost in a mood of idle sadness known only to frank natures.
+All was still to the westward; we looked in vain towards his stronghold:
+the King slumbered on so deeply that he let his foraging brother steal
+the very mantle of gold-lined purple clouds from his bowed shoulders.
+What had become of the dazzling hoard of royal jewels exhibited at every
+close of day? Gone, disappeared, extinguished, carried off without
+leaving a single gold band or the flash of a single sunbeam in the
+evening sky! Day after day through a cold streak of heavens as bare and
+poor as the inside of a rifled safe a rayless and despoiled sun would
+slink shamefacedly, without pomp or show, to hide in haste under the
+waters. And still the King slept on, or mourned the vanity of his might
+and his power, while the thin-lipped intruder put the impress of his cold
+and implacable spirit upon the sky and sea. With every daybreak the
+rising sun had to wade through a crimson stream, luminous and sinister,
+like the spilt blood of celestial bodies murdered during the night.
+
+In this particular instance the mean interloper held the road for some
+six weeks on end, establishing his particular administrative methods over
+the best part of the North Atlantic. It looked as if the easterly
+weather had come to stay for ever, or, at least, till we had all starved
+to death in the held-up fleet—starved within sight, as it were, of
+plenty, within touch, almost, of the bountiful heart of the Empire.
+There we were, dotting with our white dry sails the hard blueness of the
+deep sea. There we were, a growing company of ships, each with her
+burden of grain, of timber, of wool, of hides, and even of oranges, for
+we had one or two belated fruit schooners in company. There we were, in
+that memorable spring of a certain year in the late seventies, dodging to
+and fro, baffled on every tack, and with our stores running down to
+sweepings of bread-lockers and scrapings of sugar-casks. It was just
+like the East Wind’s nature to inflict starvation upon the bodies of
+unoffending sailors, while he corrupted their simple souls by an
+exasperation leading to outbursts of profanity as lurid as his blood-red
+sunrises. They were followed by gray days under the cover of high,
+motionless clouds that looked as if carved in a slab of ash-coloured
+marble. And each mean starved sunset left us calling with imprecations
+upon the West Wind even in its most veiled misty mood to wake up and give
+us our liberty, if only to rush on and dash the heads of our ships
+against the very walls of our unapproachable home.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX.
+
+
+In the atmosphere of the Easterly weather, as pellucid as a piece of
+crystal and refracting like a prism, we could see the appalling numbers
+of our helpless company, even to those who in more normal conditions
+would have remained invisible, sails down under the horizon. It is the
+malicious pleasure of the East Wind to augment the power of your
+eyesight, in order, perhaps, that you should see better the perfect
+humiliation, the hopeless character of your captivity. Easterly weather
+is generally clear, and that is all that can be said for it—almost
+supernaturally clear when it likes; but whatever its mood, there is
+something uncanny in its nature. Its duplicity is such that it will
+deceive a scientific instrument. No barometer will give warning of an
+easterly gale, were it ever so wet. It would be an unjust and ungrateful
+thing to say that a barometer is a stupid contrivance. It is simply that
+the wiles of the East Wind are too much for its fundamental honesty.
+After years and years of experience the most trusty instrument of the
+sort that ever went to sea screwed on to a ship’s cabin bulkhead will,
+almost invariably, be induced to rise by the diabolic ingenuity of the
+Easterly weather, just at the moment when the Easterly weather,
+discarding its methods of hard, dry, impassive cruelty, contemplates
+drowning what is left of your spirit in torrents of a peculiarly cold and
+horrid rain. The sleet-and-hail squalls following the lightning at the
+end of a westerly gale are cold and benumbing and stinging and cruel
+enough. But the dry, Easterly weather, when it turns to wet, seems to
+rain poisoned showers upon your head. It is a sort of steady,
+persistent, overwhelming, endlessly driving downpour, which makes your
+heart sick, and opens it to dismal forebodings. And the stormy mood of
+the Easterly weather looms black upon the sky with a peculiar and amazing
+blackness. The West Wind hangs heavy gray curtains of mist and spray
+before your gaze, but the Eastern interloper of the narrow seas, when he
+has mustered his courage and cruelty to the point of a gale, puts your
+eyes out, puts them out completely, makes you feel blind for life upon a
+lee-shore. It is the wind, also, that brings snow.
+
+Out of his black and merciless heart he flings a white blinding sheet
+upon the ships of the sea. He has more manners of villainy, and no more
+conscience than an Italian prince of the seventeenth century. His weapon
+is a dagger carried under a black cloak when he goes out on his unlawful
+enterprises. The mere hint of his approach fills with dread every craft
+that swims the sea, from fishing-smacks to four-masted ships that
+recognise the sway of the West Wind. Even in his most accommodating mood
+he inspires a dread of treachery. I have heard upwards of ten score of
+windlasses spring like one into clanking life in the dead of night,
+filling the Downs with a panic-struck sound of anchors being torn
+hurriedly out of the ground at the first breath of his approach.
+Fortunately, his heart often fails him: he does not always blow home upon
+our exposed coast; he has not the fearless temper of his Westerly
+brother.
+
+The natures of those two winds that share the dominions of the great
+oceans are fundamentally different. It is strange that the winds which
+men are prone to style capricious remain true to their character in all
+the various regions of the earth. To us here, for instance, the East
+Wind comes across a great continent, sweeping over the greatest body of
+solid land upon this earth. For the Australian east coast the East Wind
+is the wind of the ocean, coming across the greatest body of water upon
+the globe; and yet here and there its characteristics remain the same
+with a strange consistency in everything that is vile and base. The
+members of the West Wind’s dynasty are modified in a way by the regions
+they rule, as a Hohenzollern, without ceasing to be himself, becomes a
+Roumanian by virtue of his throne, or a Saxe-Coburg learns to put the
+dress of Bulgarian phrases upon his particular thoughts, whatever they
+are.
+
+The autocratic sway of the West Wind, whether forty north or forty south
+of the Equator, is characterized by an open, generous, frank, barbarous
+recklessness. For he is a great autocrat, and to be a great autocrat you
+must be a great barbarian. I have been too much moulded to his sway to
+nurse now any idea of rebellion in my heart. Moreover, what is a
+rebellion within the four walls of a room against the tempestuous rule of
+the West Wind? I remain faithful to the memory of the mighty King with a
+double-edged sword in one hand, and in the other holding out rewards of
+great daily runs and famously quick passages to those of his courtiers
+who knew how to wait watchfully for every sign of his secret mood. As we
+deep-water men always reckoned, he made one year in three fairly lively
+for anybody having business upon the Atlantic or down there along the
+“forties” of the Southern Ocean. You had to take the bitter with the
+sweet; and it cannot be denied he played carelessly with our lives and
+fortunes. But, then, he was always a great king, fit to rule over the
+great waters where, strictly speaking, a man would have no business
+whatever but for his audacity.
+
+The audacious should not complain. A mere trader ought not to grumble at
+the tolls levied by a mighty king. His mightiness was sometimes very
+overwhelming; but even when you had to defy him openly, as on the banks
+of the Agulhas homeward bound from the East Indies, or on the outward
+passage round the Horn, he struck at you fairly his stinging blows (full
+in the face, too), and it was your business not to get too much
+staggered. And, after all, if you showed anything of a countenance, the
+good-natured barbarian would let you fight your way past the very steps
+of his throne. It was only now and then that the sword descended and a
+head fell; but if you fell you were sure of impressive obsequies and of a
+roomy, generous grave.
+
+Such is the king to whom Viking chieftains bowed their heads, and whom
+the modern and palatial steamship defies with impunity seven times a
+week. And yet it is but defiance, not victory. The magnificent
+barbarian sits enthroned in a mantle of gold-lined clouds looking from on
+high on great ships gliding like mechanical toys upon his sea and on men
+who, armed with fire and iron, no longer need to watch anxiously for the
+slightest sign of his royal mood. He is disregarded; but he has kept all
+his strength, all his splendour, and a great part of his power. Time
+itself, that shakes all the thrones, is on the side of that king. The
+sword in his hand remains as sharp as ever upon both its edges; and he
+may well go on playing his royal game of quoits with hurricanes, tossing
+them over from the continent of republics to the continent of kingdoms,
+in the assurance that both the new republics and the old kingdoms, the
+heat of fire and the strength of iron, with the untold generations of
+audacious men, shall crumble to dust at the steps of his throne, and pass
+away, and be forgotten before his own rule comes to an end.
+
+
+
+
+XXX.
+
+
+THE estuaries of rivers appeal strongly to an adventurous imagination.
+This appeal is not always a charm, for there are estuaries of a
+particularly dispiriting ugliness: lowlands, mud-flats, or perhaps barren
+sandhills without beauty of form or amenity of aspect, covered with a
+shabby and scanty vegetation conveying the impression of poverty and
+uselessness. Sometimes such an ugliness is merely a repulsive mask. A
+river whose estuary resembles a breach in a sand rampart may flow through
+a most fertile country. But all the estuaries of great rivers have their
+fascination, the attractiveness of an open portal. Water is friendly to
+man. The ocean, a part of Nature furthest removed in the
+unchangeableness and majesty of its might from the spirit of mankind, has
+ever been a friend to the enterprising nations of the earth. And of all
+the elements this is the one to which men have always been prone to trust
+themselves, as if its immensity held a reward as vast as itself.
+
+From the offing the open estuary promises every possible fruition to
+adventurous hopes. That road open to enterprise and courage invites the
+explorer of coasts to new efforts towards the fulfilment of great
+expectations. The commander of the first Roman galley must have looked
+with an intense absorption upon the estuary of the Thames as he turned
+the beaked prow of his ship to the westward under the brow of the North
+Foreland. The estuary of the Thames is not beautiful; it has no noble
+features, no romantic grandeur of aspect, no smiling geniality; but it is
+wide open, spacious, inviting, hospitable at the first glance, with a
+strange air of mysteriousness which lingers about it to this very day.
+The navigation of his craft must have engrossed all the Roman’s attention
+in the calm of a summer’s day (he would choose his weather), when the
+single row of long sweeps (the galley would be a light one, not a
+trireme) could fall in easy cadence upon a sheet of water like
+plate-glass, reflecting faithfully the classic form of his vessel and the
+contour of the lonely shores close on his left hand. I assume he
+followed the land and passed through what is at present known as Margate
+Roads, groping his careful way along the hidden sandbanks, whose every
+tail and spit has its beacon or buoy nowadays. He must have been
+anxious, though no doubt he had collected beforehand on the shores of the
+Gauls a store of information from the talk of traders, adventurers,
+fishermen, slave-dealers, pirates—all sorts of unofficial men connected
+with the sea in a more or less reputable way. He would have heard of
+channels and sandbanks, of natural features of the land useful for
+sea-marks, of villages and tribes and modes of barter and precautions to
+take: with the instructive tales about native chiefs dyed more or less
+blue, whose character for greediness, ferocity, or amiability must have
+been expounded to him with that capacity for vivid language which seems
+joined naturally to the shadiness of moral character and recklessness of
+disposition. With that sort of spiced food provided for his anxious
+thought, watchful for strange men, strange beasts, strange turns of the
+tide, he would make the best of his way up, a military seaman with a
+short sword on thigh and a bronze helmet on his head, the pioneer
+post-captain of an imperial fleet. Was the tribe inhabiting the Isle of
+Thanet of a ferocious disposition, I wonder, and ready to fall with
+stone-studded clubs and wooden lances hardened in the fire, upon the
+backs of unwary mariners?
+
+Amongst the great commercial streams of these islands, the Thames is the
+only one, I think, open to romantic feeling, from the fact that the sight
+of human labour and the sounds of human industry do not come down its
+shores to the very sea, destroying the suggestion of mysterious vastness
+caused by the configuration of the shore. The broad inlet of the shallow
+North Sea passes gradually into the contracted shape of the river; but
+for a long time the feeling of the open water remains with the ship
+steering to the westward through one of the lighted and buoyed
+passage-ways of the Thames, such as Queen’s Channel, Prince’s Channel,
+Four-Fathom Channel; or else coming down the Swin from the north. The
+rush of the yellow flood-tide hurries her up as if into the unknown
+between the two fading lines of the coast. There are no features to this
+land, no conspicuous, far-famed landmarks for the eye; there is nothing
+so far down to tell you of the greatest agglomeration of mankind on earth
+dwelling no more than five and twenty miles away, where the sun sets in a
+blaze of colour flaming on a gold background, and the dark, low shores
+trend towards each other. And in the great silence the deep, faint
+booming of the big guns being tested at Shoeburyness hangs about the
+Nore—a historical spot in the keeping of one of England’s appointed
+guardians.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI.
+
+
+The Nore sand remains covered at low-water, and never seen by human eye;
+but the Nore is a name to conjure with visions of historical events, of
+battles, of fleets, of mutinies, of watch and ward kept upon the great
+throbbing heart of the State. This ideal point of the estuary, this
+centre of memories, is marked upon the steely gray expanse of the waters
+by a lightship painted red that, from a couple of miles off, looks like a
+cheap and bizarre little toy. I remember how, on coming up the river for
+the first time, I was surprised at the smallness of that vivid object—a
+tiny warm speck of crimson lost in an immensity of gray tones. I was
+startled, as if of necessity the principal beacon in the water-way of the
+greatest town on earth should have presented imposing proportions. And,
+behold! the brown sprit-sail of a barge hid it entirely from my view.
+
+Coming in from the eastward, the bright colouring of the lightship
+marking the part of the river committed to the charge of an Admiral (the
+Commander-in-Chief at the Nore) accentuates the dreariness and the great
+breadth of the Thames Estuary. But soon the course of the ship opens the
+entrance of the Medway, with its men-of-war moored in line, and the long
+wooden jetty of Port Victoria, with its few low buildings like the
+beginning of a hasty settlement upon a wild and unexplored shore. The
+famous Thames barges sit in brown clusters upon the water with an effect
+of birds floating upon a pond. On the imposing expanse of the great
+estuary the traffic of the port where so much of the world’s work and the
+world’s thinking is being done becomes insignificant, scattered,
+streaming away in thin lines of ships stringing themselves out into the
+eastern quarter through the various navigable channels of which the Nore
+lightship marks the divergence. The coasting traffic inclines to the
+north; the deep-water ships steer east with a southern inclination, on
+through the Downs, to the most remote ends of the world. In the widening
+of the shores sinking low in the gray, smoky distances the greatness of
+the sea receives the mercantile fleet of good ships that London sends out
+upon the turn of every tide. They follow each other, going very close by
+the Essex shore. Such as the beads of a rosary told by business-like
+shipowners for the greater profit of the world they slip one by one into
+the open: while in the offing the inward-bound ships come up singly and
+in bunches from under the sea horizon closing the mouth of the river
+between Orfordness and North Foreland. They all converge upon the Nore,
+the warm speck of red upon the tones of drab and gray, with the distant
+shores running together towards the west, low and flat, like the sides of
+an enormous canal. The sea-reach of the Thames is straight, and, once
+Sheerness is left behind, its banks seem very uninhabited, except for the
+cluster of houses which is Southend, or here and there a lonely wooden
+jetty where petroleum ships discharge their dangerous cargoes, and the
+oil-storage tanks, low and round with slightly-domed roofs, peep over the
+edge of the fore-shore, as it were a village of Central African huts
+imitated in iron. Bordered by the black and shining mud-flats, the level
+marsh extends for miles. Away in the far background the land rises,
+closing the view with a continuous wooded slope, forming in the distance
+an interminable rampart overgrown with bushes.
+
+Then, on the slight turn of the Lower Hope Reach, clusters of factory
+chimneys come distinctly into view, tall and slender above the squat
+ranges of cement works in Grays and Greenhithe. Smoking quietly at the
+top against the great blaze of a magnificent sunset, they give an
+industrial character to the scene, speak of work, manufactures, and
+trade, as palm-groves on the coral strands of distant islands speak of
+the luxuriant grace, beauty and vigour of tropical nature. The houses of
+Gravesend crowd upon the shore with an effect of confusion as if they had
+tumbled down haphazard from the top of the hill at the back. The
+flatness of the Kentish shore ends there. A fleet of steam-tugs lies at
+anchor in front of the various piers. A conspicuous church spire, the
+first seen distinctly coming from the sea, has a thoughtful grace, the
+serenity of a fine form above the chaotic disorder of men’s houses. But
+on the other side, on the flat Essex side, a shapeless and desolate red
+edifice, a vast pile of bricks with many windows and a slate roof more
+inaccessible than an Alpine slope, towers over the bend in monstrous
+ugliness, the tallest, heaviest building for miles around, a thing like
+an hotel, like a mansion of flats (all to let), exiled into these fields
+out of a street in West Kensington. Just round the corner, as it were,
+on a pier defined with stone blocks and wooden piles, a white mast,
+slender like a stalk of straw and crossed by a yard like a
+knitting-needle, flying the signals of flag and balloon, watches over a
+set of heavy dock-gates. Mast-heads and funnel-tops of ships peep above
+the ranges of corrugated iron roofs. This is the entrance to Tilbury
+Dock, the most recent of all London docks, the nearest to the sea.
+
+Between the crowded houses of Gravesend and the monstrous red-brick pile
+on the Essex shore the ship is surrendered fairly to the grasp of the
+river. That hint of loneliness, that soul of the sea which had
+accompanied her as far as the Lower Hope Reach, abandons her at the turn
+of the first bend above. The salt, acrid flavour is gone out of the air,
+together with a sense of unlimited space opening free beyond the
+threshold of sandbanks below the Nore. The waters of the sea rush on
+past Gravesend, tumbling the big mooring buoys laid along the face of the
+town; but the sea-freedom stops short there, surrendering the salt tide
+to the needs, the artifices, the contrivances of toiling men. Wharves,
+landing-places, dock-gates, waterside stairs, follow each other
+continuously right up to London Bridge, and the hum of men’s work fills
+the river with a menacing, muttering note as of a breathless,
+ever-driving gale. The water-way, so fair above and wide below, flows
+oppressed by bricks and mortar and stone, by blackened timber and grimed
+glass and rusty iron, covered with black barges, whipped up by paddles
+and screws, overburdened with craft, overhung with chains, overshadowed
+by walls making a steep gorge for its bed, filled with a haze of smoke
+and dust.
+
+This stretch of the Thames from London Bridge to the Albert Docks is to
+other watersides of river ports what a virgin forest would be to a
+garden. It is a thing grown up, not made. It recalls a jungle by the
+confused, varied, and impenetrable aspect of the buildings that line the
+shore, not according to a planned purpose, but as if sprung up by
+accident from scattered seeds. Like the matted growth of bushes and
+creepers veiling the silent depths of an unexplored wilderness, they hide
+the depths of London’s infinitely varied, vigorous, seething life. In
+other river ports it is not so. They lie open to their stream, with
+quays like broad clearings, with streets like avenues cut through thick
+timber for the convenience of trade. I am thinking now of river ports I
+have seen—of Antwerp, for instance; of Nantes or Bordeaux, or even old
+Rouen, where the night-watchmen of ships, elbows on rail, gaze at
+shop-windows and brilliant cafés, and see the audience go in and come out
+of the opera-house. But London, the oldest and greatest of river ports,
+does not possess as much as a hundred yards of open quays upon its river
+front. Dark and impenetrable at night, like the face of a forest, is the
+London waterside. It is the waterside of watersides, where only one
+aspect of the world’s life can be seen, and only one kind of men toils on
+the edge of the stream. The lightless walls seem to spring from the very
+mud upon which the stranded barges lie; and the narrow lanes coming down
+to the foreshore resemble the paths of smashed bushes and crumbled earth
+where big game comes to drink on the banks of tropical streams.
+
+Behind the growth of the London waterside the docks of London spread out
+unsuspected, smooth, and placid, lost amongst the buildings like dark
+lagoons hidden in a thick forest. They lie concealed in the intricate
+growth of houses with a few stalks of mastheads here and there
+overtopping the roof of some four-story warehouse.
+
+It is a strange conjunction this of roofs and mastheads, of walls and
+yard-arms. I remember once having the incongruity of the relation
+brought home to me in a practical way. I was the chief officer of a fine
+ship, just docked with a cargo of wool from Sydney, after a ninety days’
+passage. In fact, we had not been in more than half an hour and I was
+still busy making her fast to the stone posts of a very narrow quay in
+front of a lofty warehouse. An old man with a gray whisker under the
+chin and brass buttons on his pilot-cloth jacket, hurried up along the
+quay hailing my ship by name. He was one of those officials called
+berthing-masters—not the one who had berthed us, but another, who,
+apparently, had been busy securing a steamer at the other end of the
+dock. I could see from afar his hard blue eyes staring at us, as if
+fascinated, with a queer sort of absorption. I wondered what that worthy
+sea-dog had found to criticise in my ship’s rigging. And I, too, glanced
+aloft anxiously. I could see nothing wrong there. But perhaps that
+superannuated fellow-craftsman was simply admiring the ship’s perfect
+order aloft, I thought, with some secret pride; for the chief officer is
+responsible for his ship’s appearance, and as to her outward condition,
+he is the man open to praise or blame. Meantime the old salt
+(“ex-coasting skipper” was writ large all over his person) had hobbled up
+alongside in his bumpy, shiny boots, and, waving an arm, short and thick
+like the flipper of a seal, terminated by a paw red as an uncooked
+beef-steak, addressed the poop in a muffled, faint, roaring voice, as if
+a sample of every North-Sea fog of his life had been permanently lodged
+in his throat: “Haul ’em round, Mr. Mate!” were his words. “If you don’t
+look sharp, you’ll have your topgallant yards through the windows of that
+’ere warehouse presently!” This was the only cause of his interest in
+the ship’s beautiful spars. I own that for a time I was struck dumb by
+the bizarre associations of yard-arms and window-panes. To break windows
+is the last thing one would think of in connection with a ship’s
+topgallant yard, unless, indeed, one were an experienced berthing-master
+in one of the London docks. This old chap was doing his little share of
+the world’s work with proper efficiency. His little blue eyes had made
+out the danger many hundred yards off. His rheumaticky feet, tired with
+balancing that squat body for many years upon the decks of small
+coasters, and made sore by miles of tramping upon the flagstones of the
+dock side, had hurried up in time to avert a ridiculous catastrophe. I
+answered him pettishly, I fear, and as if I had known all about it
+before.
+
+“All right, all right! can’t do everything at once.”
+
+He remained near by, muttering to himself till the yards had been hauled
+round at my order, and then raised again his foggy, thick voice:
+
+“None too soon,” he observed, with a critical glance up at the towering
+side of the warehouse. “That’s a half-sovereign in your pocket, Mr.
+Mate. You should always look first how you are for them windows before
+you begin to breast in your ship to the quay.”
+
+It was good advice. But one cannot think of everything or foresee
+contacts of things apparently as remote as stars and hop-poles.
+
+
+
+
+XXXII.
+
+
+The view of ships lying moored in some of the older docks of London has
+always suggested to my mind the image of a flock of swans kept in the
+flooded backyard of grim tenement houses. The flatness of the walls
+surrounding the dark pool on which they float brings out wonderfully the
+flowing grace of the lines on which a ship’s hull is built. The
+lightness of these forms, devised to meet the winds and the seas, makes,
+by contrast with the great piles of bricks, the chains and cables of
+their moorings appear very necessary, as if nothing less could prevent
+them from soaring upwards and over the roofs. The least puff of wind
+stealing round the corners of the dock buildings stirs these captives
+fettered to rigid shores. It is as if the soul of a ship were impatient
+of confinement. Those masted hulls, relieved of their cargo, become
+restless at the slightest hint of the wind’s freedom. However tightly
+moored, they range a little at their berths, swaying imperceptibly the
+spire-like assemblages of cordage and spars. You can detect their
+impatience by watching the sway of the mastheads against the motionless,
+the soulless gravity of mortar and stones. As you pass alongside each
+hopeless prisoner chained to the quay, the slight grinding noise of the
+wooden fenders makes a sound of angry muttering. But, after all, it may
+be good for ships to go through a period of restraint and repose, as the
+restraint and self-communion of inactivity may be good for an unruly
+soul—not, indeed, that I mean to say that ships are unruly; on the
+contrary, they are faithful creatures, as so many men can testify. And
+faithfulness is a great restraint, the strongest bond laid upon the
+self-will of men and ships on this globe of land and sea.
+
+This interval of bondage in the docks rounds each period of a ship’s life
+with the sense of accomplished duty, of an effectively played part in the
+work of the world. The dock is the scene of what the world would think
+the most serious part in the light, bounding, swaying life of a ship.
+But there are docks and docks. The ugliness of some docks is appalling.
+Wild horses would not drag from me the name of a certain river in the
+north whose narrow estuary is inhospitable and dangerous, and whose docks
+are like a nightmare of dreariness and misery. Their dismal shores are
+studded thickly with scaffold-like, enormous timber structures, whose
+lofty heads are veiled periodically by the infernal gritty night of a
+cloud of coal-dust. The most important ingredient for getting the
+world’s work along is distributed there under the circumstances of the
+greatest cruelty meted out to helpless ships. Shut up in the desolate
+circuit of these basins, you would think a free ship would droop and die
+like a wild bird put into a dirty cage. But a ship, perhaps because of
+her faithfulness to men, will endure an extraordinary lot of ill-usage.
+Still, I have seen ships issue from certain docks like half-dead
+prisoners from a dungeon, bedraggled, overcome, wholly disguised in dirt,
+and with their men rolling white eyeballs in black and worried faces
+raised to a heaven which, in its smoky and soiled aspect, seemed to
+reflect the sordidness of the earth below. One thing, however, may be
+said for the docks of the Port of London on both sides of the river: for
+all the complaints of their insufficient equipment, of their obsolete
+rules, of failure (they say) in the matter of quick despatch, no ship
+need ever issue from their gates in a half-fainting condition. London is
+a general cargo port, as is only proper for the greatest capital of the
+world to be. General cargo ports belong to the aristocracy of the
+earth’s trading places, and in that aristocracy London, as it is its way,
+has a unique physiognomy.
+
+The absence of picturesqueness cannot be laid to the charge of the docks
+opening into the Thames. For all my unkind comparisons to swans and
+backyards, it cannot be denied that each dock or group of docks along the
+north side of the river has its own individual attractiveness. Beginning
+with the cosy little St. Katherine’s Dock, lying overshadowed and black
+like a quiet pool amongst rocky crags, through the venerable and
+sympathetic London Docks, with not a single line of rails in the whole of
+their area and the aroma of spices lingering between its warehouses, with
+their far-famed wine-cellars—down through the interesting group of West
+India Docks, the fine docks at Blackwall, on past the Galleons Reach
+entrance of the Victoria and Albert Docks, right down to the vast gloom
+of the great basins in Tilbury, each of those places of restraint for
+ships has its own peculiar physiognomy, its own expression. And what
+makes them unique and attractive is their common trait of being romantic
+in their usefulness.
+
+In their way they are as romantic as the river they serve is unlike all
+the other commercial streams of the world. The cosiness of the St.
+Katherine’s Dock, the old-world air of the London Docks, remain impressed
+upon the memory. The docks down the river, abreast of Woolwich, are
+imposing by their proportions and the vast scale of the ugliness that
+forms their surroundings—ugliness so picturesque as to become a delight
+to the eye. When one talks of the Thames docks, “beauty” is a vain word,
+but romance has lived too long upon this river not to have thrown a
+mantle of glamour upon its banks.
+
+The antiquity of the port appeals to the imagination by the long chain of
+adventurous enterprises that had their inception in the town and floated
+out into the world on the waters of the river. Even the newest of the
+docks, the Tilbury Dock, shares in the glamour conferred by historical
+associations. Queen Elizabeth has made one of her progresses down there,
+not one of her journeys of pomp and ceremony, but an anxious business
+progress at a crisis of national history. The menace of that time has
+passed away, and now Tilbury is known by its docks. These are very
+modern, but their remoteness and isolation upon the Essex marsh, the days
+of failure attending their creation, invested them with a romantic air.
+Nothing in those days could have been more striking than the vast, empty
+basins, surrounded by miles of bare quays and the ranges of cargo-sheds,
+where two or three ships seemed lost like bewitched children in a forest
+of gaunt, hydraulic cranes. One received a wonderful impression of utter
+abandonment, of wasted efficiency. From the first the Tilbury Docks were
+very efficient and ready for their task, but they had come, perhaps, too
+soon into the field. A great future lies before Tilbury Docks. They
+shall never fill a long-felt want (in the sacramental phrase that is
+applied to railways, tunnels, newspapers, and new editions of books).
+They were too early in the field. The want shall never be felt because,
+free of the trammels of the tide, easy of access, magnificent and
+desolate, they are already there, prepared to take and keep the biggest
+ships that float upon the sea. They are worthy of the oldest river port
+in the world.
+
+And, truth to say, for all the criticisms flung upon the heads of the
+dock companies, the other docks of the Thames are no disgrace to the town
+with a population greater than that of some commonwealths. The growth of
+London as a well-equipped port has been slow, while not unworthy of a
+great capital, of a great centre of distribution. It must not be
+forgotten that London has not the backing of great industrial districts
+or great fields of natural exploitation. In this it differs from
+Liverpool, from Cardiff, from Newcastle, from Glasgow; and therein the
+Thames differs from the Mersey, from the Tyne, from the Clyde. It is an
+historical river; it is a romantic stream flowing through the centre of
+great affairs, and for all the criticism of the river’s administration,
+my contention is that its development has been worthy of its dignity.
+For a long time the stream itself could accommodate quite easily the
+oversea and coasting traffic. That was in the days when, in the part
+called the Pool, just below London Bridge, the vessels moored stem and
+stern in the very strength of the tide formed one solid mass like an
+island covered with a forest of gaunt, leafless trees; and when the trade
+had grown too big for the river there came the St. Katherine’s Docks and
+the London Docks, magnificent undertakings answering to the need of their
+time. The same may be said of the other artificial lakes full of ships
+that go in and out upon this high road to all parts of the world. The
+labour of the imperial waterway goes on from generation to generation,
+goes on day and night. Nothing ever arrests its sleepless industry but
+the coming of a heavy fog, which clothes the teeming stream in a mantle
+of impenetrable stillness.
+
+After the gradual cessation of all sound and movement on the faithful
+river, only the ringing of ships’ bells is heard, mysterious and muffled
+in the white vapour from London Bridge right down to the Nore, for miles
+and miles in a decrescendo tinkling, to where the estuary broadens out
+into the North Sea, and the anchored ships lie scattered thinly in the
+shrouded channels between the sand-banks of the Thames’ mouth. Through
+the long and glorious tale of years of the river’s strenuous service to
+its people these are its only breathing times.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII.
+
+
+A SHIP in dock, surrounded by quays and the walls of warehouses, has the
+appearance of a prisoner meditating upon freedom in the sadness of a free
+spirit put under restraint. Chain cables and stout ropes keep her bound
+to stone posts at the edge of a paved shore, and a berthing-master, with
+brass buttons on his coat, walks about like a weather-beaten and ruddy
+gaoler, casting jealous, watchful glances upon the moorings that fetter a
+ship lying passive and still and safe, as if lost in deep regrets of her
+days of liberty and danger on the sea.
+
+The swarm of renegades—dock-masters, berthing-masters, gatemen, and such
+like—appear to nurse an immense distrust of the captive ship’s
+resignation. There never seem chains and ropes enough to satisfy their
+minds concerned with the safe binding of free ships to the strong, muddy,
+enslaved earth. “You had better put another bight of a hawser astern,
+Mr. Mate,” is the usual phrase in their mouth. I brand them for
+renegades, because most of them have been sailors in their time. As if
+the infirmities of old age—the gray hair, the wrinkles at the corners of
+the eyes, and the knotted veins of the hands—were the symptoms of moral
+poison, they prowl about the quays with an underhand air of gloating over
+the broken spirit of noble captives. They want more fenders, more
+breasting-ropes; they want more springs, more shackles, more fetters;
+they want to make ships with volatile souls as motionless as square
+blocks of stone. They stand on the mud of pavements, these degraded
+sea-dogs, with long lines of railway-trucks clanking their couplings
+behind their backs, and run malevolent glances over your ship from
+headgear to taffrail, only wishing to tyrannize over the poor creature
+under the hypocritical cloak of benevolence and care. Here and there
+cargo cranes looking like instruments of torture for ships swing cruel
+hooks at the end of long chains. Gangs of dock-labourers swarm with
+muddy feet over the gangways. It is a moving sight this, of so many men
+of the earth, earthy, who never cared anything for a ship, trampling
+unconcerned, brutal and hob-nailed upon her helpless body.
+
+Fortunately, nothing can deface the beauty of a ship. That sense of a
+dungeon, that sense of a horrible and degrading misfortune overtaking a
+creature fair to see and safe to trust, attaches only to ships moored in
+the docks of great European ports. You feel that they are dishonestly
+locked up, to be hunted about from wharf to wharf on a dark, greasy,
+square pool of black water as a brutal reward at the end of a faithful
+voyage.
+
+A ship anchored in an open roadstead, with cargo-lighters alongside and
+her own tackle swinging the burden over the rail, is accomplishing in
+freedom a function of her life. There is no restraint; there is space:
+clear water around her, and a clear sky above her mastheads, with a
+landscape of green hills and charming bays opening around her anchorage.
+She is not abandoned by her own men to the tender mercies of shore
+people. She still shelters, and is looked after by, her own little
+devoted band, and you feel that presently she will glide between the
+headlands and disappear. It is only at home, in dock, that she lies
+abandoned, shut off from freedom by all the artifices of men that think
+of quick despatch and profitable freights. It is only then that the
+odious, rectangular shadows of walls and roofs fall upon her decks, with
+showers of soot.
+
+To a man who has never seen the extraordinary nobility, strength, and
+grace that the devoted generations of ship-builders have evolved from
+some pure nooks of their simple souls, the sight that could be seen
+five-and-twenty years ago of a large fleet of clippers moored along the
+north side of the New South Dock was an inspiring spectacle. Then there
+was a quarter of a mile of them, from the iron dockyard-gates guarded by
+policemen, in a long, forest-like perspective of masts, moored two and
+two to many stout wooden jetties. Their spars dwarfed with their
+loftiness the corrugated-iron sheds, their jibbooms extended far over the
+shore, their white-and-gold figure-heads, almost dazzling in their
+purity, overhung the straight, long quay above the mud and dirt of the
+wharfside, with the busy figures of groups and single men moving to and
+fro, restless and grimy under their soaring immobility.
+
+At tide-time you would see one of the loaded ships with battened-down
+hatches drop out of the ranks and float in the clear space of the dock,
+held by lines dark and slender, like the first threads of a spider’s web,
+extending from her bows and her quarters to the mooring-posts on shore.
+There, graceful and still, like a bird ready to spread its wings, she
+waited till, at the opening of the gates, a tug or two would hurry in
+noisily, hovering round her with an air of fuss and solicitude, and take
+her out into the river, tending, shepherding her through open bridges,
+through dam-like gates between the flat pier-heads, with a bit of green
+lawn surrounded by gravel and a white signal-mast with yard and gaff,
+flying a couple of dingy blue, red, or white flags.
+
+This New South Dock (it was its official name), round which my earlier
+professional memories are centred, belongs to the group of West India
+Docks, together with two smaller and much older basins called Import and
+Export respectively, both with the greatness of their trade departed from
+them already. Picturesque and clean as docks go, these twin basins
+spread side by side the dark lustre of their glassy water, sparely
+peopled by a few ships laid up on buoys or tucked far away from each
+other at the end of sheds in the corners of empty quays, where they
+seemed to slumber quietly remote, untouched by the bustle of men’s
+affairs—in retreat rather than in captivity. They were quaint and
+sympathetic, those two homely basins, unfurnished and silent, with no
+aggressive display of cranes, no apparatus of hurry and work on their
+narrow shores. No railway-lines cumbered them. The knots of labourers
+trooping in clumsily round the corners of cargo-sheds to eat their food
+in peace out of red cotton handkerchiefs had the air of picnicking by the
+side of a lonely mountain pool. They were restful (and I should say very
+unprofitable), those basins, where the chief officer of one of the ships
+involved in the harassing, strenuous, noisy activity of the New South
+Dock only a few yards away could escape in the dinner-hour to stroll,
+unhampered by men and affairs, meditating (if he chose) on the vanity of
+all things human. At one time they must have been full of good old slow
+West Indiamen of the square-stern type, that took their captivity, one
+imagines, as stolidly as they had faced the buffeting of the waves with
+their blunt, honest bows, and disgorged sugar, rum, molasses, coffee, or
+logwood sedately with their own winch and tackle. But when I knew them,
+of exports there was never a sign that one could detect; and all the
+imports I have ever seen were some rare cargoes of tropical timber,
+enormous baulks roughed out of iron trunks grown in the woods about the
+Gulf of Mexico. They lay piled up in stacks of mighty boles, and it was
+hard to believe that all this mass of dead and stripped trees had come
+out of the flanks of a slender, innocent-looking little barque with, as
+likely as not, a homely woman’s name—Ellen this or Annie that—upon her
+fine bows. But this is generally the case with a discharged cargo. Once
+spread at large over the quay, it looks the most impossible bulk to have
+all come there out of that ship alongside.
+
+They were quiet, serene nooks in the busy world of docks, these basins
+where it has never been my good luck to get a berth after some more or
+less arduous passage. But one could see at a glance that men and ships
+were never hustled there. They were so quiet that, remembering them
+well, one comes to doubt that they ever existed—places of repose for
+tired ships to dream in, places of meditation rather than work, where
+wicked ships—the cranky, the lazy, the wet, the bad sea boats, the wild
+steerers, the capricious, the pig-headed, the generally
+ungovernable—would have full leisure to take count and repent of their
+sins, sorrowful and naked, with their rent garments of sailcloth stripped
+off them, and with the dust and ashes of the London atmosphere upon their
+mastheads. For that the worst of ships would repent if she were ever
+given time I make no doubt. I have known too many of them. No ship is
+wholly bad; and now that their bodies that had braved so many tempests
+have been blown off the face of the sea by a puff of steam, the evil and
+the good together into the limbo of things that have served their time,
+there can be no harm in affirming that in these vanished generations of
+willing servants there never has been one utterly unredeemable soul.
+
+In the New South Dock there was certainly no time for remorse,
+introspection, repentance, or any phenomena of inner life either for the
+captive ships or for their officers. From six in the morning till six at
+night the hard labour of the prison-house, which rewards the valiance of
+ships that win the harbour went on steadily, great slings of general
+cargo swinging over the rail, to drop plumb into the hatchways at the
+sign of the gangway-tender’s hand. The New South Dock was especially a
+loading dock for the Colonies in those great (and last) days of smart
+wool-clippers, good to look at and—well—exciting to handle. Some of them
+were more fair to see than the others; many were (to put it mildly)
+somewhat over-masted; all were expected to make good passages; and of all
+that line of ships, whose rigging made a thick, enormous network against
+the sky, whose brasses flashed almost as far as the eye of the policeman
+at the gates could reach, there was hardly one that knew of any other
+port amongst all the ports on the wide earth but London and Sydney, or
+London and Melbourne, or London and Adelaide, perhaps with Hobart Town
+added for those of smaller tonnage. One could almost have believed, as
+her gray-whiskered second mate used to say of the old _Duke of S—_, that
+they knew the road to the Antipodes better than their own skippers, who,
+year in, year out, took them from London—the place of captivity—to some
+Australian port where, twenty-five years ago, though moored well and
+tight enough to the wooden wharves, they felt themselves no captives, but
+honoured guests.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIV.
+
+
+These towns of the Antipodes, not so great then as they are now, took an
+interest in the shipping, the running links with “home,” whose numbers
+confirmed the sense of their growing importance. They made it part and
+parcel of their daily interests. This was especially the case in Sydney,
+where, from the heart of the fair city, down the vista of important
+streets, could be seen the wool-clippers lying at the Circular Quay—no
+walled prison-house of a dock that, but the integral part of one of the
+finest, most beautiful, vast, and safe bays the sun ever shone upon. Now
+great steam-liners lie at these berths, always reserved for the sea
+aristocracy—grand and imposing enough ships, but here to-day and gone
+next week; whereas the general cargo, emigrant, and passenger clippers of
+my time, rigged with heavy spars, and built on fine lines, used to remain
+for months together waiting for their load of wool. Their names attained
+the dignity of household words. On Sundays and holidays the citizens
+trooped down, on visiting bent, and the lonely officer on duty solaced
+himself by playing the cicerone—especially to the citizenesses with
+engaging manners and a well-developed sense of the fun that may be got
+out of the inspection of a ship’s cabins and state-rooms. The tinkle of
+more or less untuned cottage pianos floated out of open stern-ports till
+the gas-lamps began to twinkle in the streets, and the ship’s
+night-watchman, coming sleepily on duty after his unsatisfactory day
+slumbers, hauled down the flags and fastened a lighted lantern at the
+break of the gangway. The night closed rapidly upon the silent ships
+with their crews on shore. Up a short, steep ascent by the King’s Head
+pub., patronized by the cooks and stewards of the fleet, the voice of a
+man crying “Hot saveloys!” at the end of George Street, where the cheap
+eating-houses (sixpence a meal) were kept by Chinamen (Sun-kum-on’s was
+not bad), is heard at regular intervals. I have listened for hours to
+this most pertinacious pedlar (I wonder whether he is dead or has made a
+fortune), while sitting on the rail of the old _Duke of S—_ (she’s dead,
+poor thing! a violent death on the coast of New Zealand), fascinated by
+the monotony, the regularity, the abruptness of the recurring cry, and so
+exasperated at the absurd spell, that I wished the fellow would choke
+himself to death with a mouthful of his own infamous wares.
+
+A stupid job, and fit only for an old man, my comrades used to tell me,
+to be the night-watchman of a captive (though honoured) ship. And
+generally the oldest of the able seamen in a ship’s crew does get it.
+But sometimes neither the oldest nor any other fairly steady seaman is
+forthcoming. Ships’ crews had the trick of melting away swiftly in those
+days. So, probably on account of my youth, innocence, and pensive habits
+(which made me sometimes dilatory in my work about the rigging), I was
+suddenly nominated, in our chief mate Mr. B—’s most sardonic tones, to
+that enviable situation. I do not regret the experience. The night
+humours of the town descended from the street to the waterside in the
+still watches of the night: larrikins rushing down in bands to settle
+some quarrel by a stand-up fight, away from the police, in an indistinct
+ring half hidden by piles of cargo, with the sounds of blows, a groan now
+and then, the stamping of feet, and the cry of “Time!” rising suddenly
+above the sinister and excited murmurs; night-prowlers, pursued or
+pursuing, with a stifled shriek followed by a profound silence, or
+slinking stealthily alongside like ghosts, and addressing me from the
+quay below in mysterious tones with incomprehensible propositions. The
+cabmen, too, who twice a week, on the night when the A.S.N. Company’s
+passenger-boat was due to arrive, used to range a battalion of blazing
+lamps opposite the ship, were very amusing in their way. They got down
+from their perches and told each other impolite stories in racy language,
+every word of which reached me distinctly over the bulwarks as I sat
+smoking on the main-hatch. On one occasion I had an hour or so of a most
+intellectual conversation with a person whom I could not see distinctly,
+a gentleman from England, he said, with a cultivated voice, I on deck and
+he on the quay sitting on the case of a piano (landed out of our hold
+that very afternoon), and smoking a cigar which smelt very good. We
+touched, in our discourse, upon science, politics, natural history, and
+operatic singers. Then, after remarking abruptly, “You seem to be rather
+intelligent, my man,” he informed me pointedly that his name was Mr.
+Senior, and walked off—to his hotel, I suppose. Shadows! Shadows! I
+think I saw a white whisker as he turned under the lamp-post. It is a
+shock to think that in the natural course of nature he must be dead by
+now. There was nothing to object to in his intelligence but a little
+dogmatism maybe. And his name was Senior! Mr. Senior!
+
+The position had its drawbacks, however. One wintry, blustering, dark
+night in July, as I stood sleepily out of the rain under the break of the
+poop something resembling an ostrich dashed up the gangway. I say
+ostrich because the creature, though it ran on two legs, appeared to help
+its progress by working a pair of short wings; it was a man, however,
+only his coat, ripped up the back and flapping in two halves above his
+shoulders, gave him that weird and fowl-like appearance. At least, I
+suppose it was his coat, for it was impossible to make him out
+distinctly. How he managed to come so straight upon me, at speed and
+without a stumble over a strange deck, I cannot imagine. He must have
+been able to see in the dark better than any cat. He overwhelmed me with
+panting entreaties to let him take shelter till morning in our
+forecastle. Following my strict orders, I refused his request, mildly at
+first, in a sterner tone as he insisted with growing impudence.
+
+“For God’s sake let me, matey! Some of ’em are after me—and I’ve got
+hold of a ticker here.”
+
+“You clear out of this!” I said.
+
+“Don’t be hard on a chap, old man!” he whined pitifully.
+
+“Now then, get ashore at once. Do you hear?”
+
+Silence. He appeared to cringe, mute, as if words had failed him through
+grief; then—bang! came a concussion and a great flash of light in which
+he vanished, leaving me prone on my back with the most abominable black
+eye that anybody ever got in the faithful discharge of duty. Shadows!
+Shadows! I hope he escaped the enemies he was fleeing from to live and
+flourish to this day. But his fist was uncommonly hard and his aim
+miraculously true in the dark.
+
+There were other experiences, less painful and more funny for the most
+part, with one amongst them of a dramatic complexion; but the greatest
+experience of them all was Mr. B—, our chief mate himself.
+
+He used to go ashore every night to foregather in some hotel’s parlour
+with his crony, the mate of the barque _Cicero_, lying on the other side
+of the Circular Quay. Late at night I would hear from afar their
+stumbling footsteps and their voices raised in endless argument. The
+mate of the _Cicero_ was seeing his friend on board. They would continue
+their senseless and muddled discourse in tones of profound friendship for
+half an hour or so at the shore end of our gangway, and then I would hear
+Mr. B— insisting that he must see the other on board his ship. And away
+they would go, their voices, still conversing with excessive amity, being
+heard moving all round the harbour. It happened more than once that they
+would thus perambulate three or four times the distance, each seeing the
+other on board his ship out of pure and disinterested affection. Then,
+through sheer weariness, or perhaps in a moment of forgetfulness, they
+would manage to part from each other somehow, and by-and-by the planks of
+our long gangway would bend and creak under the weight of Mr. B— coming
+on board for good at last.
+
+On the rail his burly form would stop and stand swaying.
+
+“Watchman!”
+
+“Sir.”
+
+A pause.
+
+He waited for a moment of steadiness before negotiating the three steps
+of the inside ladder from rail to deck; and the watchman, taught by
+experience, would forbear offering help which would be received as an
+insult at that particular stage of the mate’s return. But many times I
+trembled for his neck. He was a heavy man.
+
+Then with a rush and a thump it would be done. He never had to pick
+himself up; but it took him a minute or so to pull himself together after
+the descent.
+
+“Watchman!”
+
+“Sir.”
+
+“Captain aboard?”
+
+“Yes, sir.”
+
+Pause.
+
+“Dog aboard?”
+
+“Yes, sir.”
+
+Pause.
+
+Our dog was a gaunt and unpleasant beast, more like a wolf in poor health
+than a dog, and I never noticed Mr. B— at any other time show the
+slightest interest in the doings of the animal. But that question never
+failed.
+
+“Let’s have your arm to steady me along.”
+
+I was always prepared for that request. He leaned on me heavily till
+near enough the cabin-door to catch hold of the handle. Then he would
+let go my arm at once.
+
+“That’ll do. I can manage now.”
+
+And he could manage. He could manage to find his way into his berth,
+light his lamp, get into his bed—ay, and get out of it when I called him
+at half-past five, the first man on deck, lifting the cup of morning
+coffee to his lips with a steady hand, ready for duty as though he had
+virtuously slept ten solid hours—a better chief officer than many a man
+who had never tasted grog in his life. He could manage all that, but
+could never manage to get on in life.
+
+Only once he failed to seize the cabin-door handle at the first grab. He
+waited a little, tried again, and again failed. His weight was growing
+heavier on my arm. He sighed slowly.
+
+“D—n that handle!”
+
+Without letting go his hold of me he turned about, his face lit up bright
+as day by the full moon.
+
+“I wish she were out at sea,” he growled savagely.
+
+“Yes, sir.”
+
+I felt the need to say something, because he hung on to me as if lost,
+breathing heavily.
+
+“Ports are no good—ships rot, men go to the devil!”
+
+I kept still, and after a while he repeated with a sigh.
+
+“I wish she were at sea out of this.”
+
+“So do I, sir,” I ventured.
+
+Holding my shoulder, he turned upon me.
+
+“You! What’s that to you where she is? You don’t—drink.”
+
+And even on that night he “managed it” at last. He got hold of the
+handle. But he did not manage to light his lamp (I don’t think he even
+tried), though in the morning as usual he was the first on deck,
+bull-necked, curly-headed, watching the hands turn-to with his sardonic
+expression and unflinching gaze.
+
+I met him ten years afterwards, casually, unexpectedly, in the street, on
+coming out of my consignee office. I was not likely to have forgotten
+him with his “I can manage now.” He recognised me at once, remembered my
+name, and in what ship I had served under his orders. He looked me over
+from head to foot.
+
+“What are you doing here?” he asked.
+
+“I am commanding a little barque,” I said, “loading here for Mauritius.”
+Then, thoughtlessly, I added: “And what are you doing, Mr. B-?”
+
+“I,” he said, looking at me unflinchingly, with his old sardonic grin—“I
+am looking for something to do.”
+
+I felt I would rather have bitten out my tongue. His jet-black, curly
+hair had turned iron-gray; he was scrupulously neat as ever, but
+frightfully threadbare. His shiny boots were worn down at heel. But he
+forgave me, and we drove off together in a hansom to dine on board my
+ship. He went over her conscientiously, praised her heartily,
+congratulated me on my command with absolute sincerity. At dinner, as I
+offered him wine and beer he shook his head, and as I sat looking at him
+interrogatively, muttered in an undertone:
+
+“I’ve given up all that.”
+
+After dinner we came again on deck. It seemed as though he could not
+tear himself away from the ship. We were fitting some new lower rigging,
+and he hung about, approving, suggesting, giving me advice in his old
+manner. Twice he addressed me as “My boy,” and corrected himself quickly
+to “Captain.” My mate was about to leave me (to get married), but I
+concealed the fact from Mr. B—. I was afraid he would ask me to give him
+the berth in some ghastly jocular hint that I could not refuse to take.
+I was afraid. It would have been impossible. I could not have given
+orders to Mr. B—, and I am sure he would not have taken them from me very
+long. He could not have managed that, though he had managed to break
+himself from drink—too late.
+
+He said good-bye at last. As I watched his burly, bull-necked figure
+walk away up the street, I wondered with a sinking heart whether he had
+much more than the price of a night’s lodging in his pocket. And I
+understood that if that very minute I were to call out after him, he
+would not even turn his head. He, too, is no more than a shadow, but I
+seem to hear his words spoken on the moonlit deck of the old _Duke_ —:
+
+“Ports are no good—ships rot, men go to the devil!”
+
+
+
+
+XXXV.
+
+
+“Ships!” exclaimed an elderly seaman in clean shore togs. “Ships”—and
+his keen glance, turning away from my face, ran along the vista of
+magnificent figure-heads that in the late seventies used to overhang in a
+serried rank the muddy pavement by the side of the New South Dock—“ships
+are all right; it’s the men in ’em. . .”
+
+Fifty hulls, at least, moulded on lines of beauty and speed—hulls of
+wood, of iron, expressing in their forms the highest achievement of
+modern ship-building—lay moored all in a row, stem to quay, as if
+assembled there for an exhibition, not of a great industry, but of a
+great art. Their colours were gray, black, dark green, with a narrow
+strip of yellow moulding defining their sheer, or with a row of painted
+ports decking in warlike decoration their robust flanks of cargo-carriers
+that would know no triumph but of speed in carrying a burden, no glory
+other than of a long service, no victory but that of an endless, obscure
+contest with the sea. The great empty hulls with swept holds, just out
+of dry-dock, with their paint glistening freshly, sat high-sided with
+ponderous dignity alongside the wooden jetties, looking more like
+unmovable buildings than things meant to go afloat; others, half loaded,
+far on the way to recover the true sea-physiognomy of a ship brought down
+to her load-line, looked more accessible. Their less steeply slanting
+gangways seemed to invite the strolling sailors in search of a berth to
+walk on board and try “for a chance” with the chief mate, the guardian of
+a ship’s efficiency. As if anxious to remain unperceived amongst their
+overtopping sisters, two or three “finished” ships floated low, with an
+air of straining at the leash of their level headfasts, exposing to view
+their cleared decks and covered hatches, prepared to drop stern first out
+of the labouring ranks, displaying the true comeliness of form which only
+her proper sea-trim gives to a ship. And for a good quarter of a mile,
+from the dockyard gate to the farthest corner, where the old housed-in
+hulk, the _President_ (drill-ship, then, of the Naval Reserve), used to
+lie with her frigate side rubbing against the stone of the quay, above
+all these hulls, ready and unready, a hundred and fifty lofty masts, more
+or less, held out the web of their rigging like an immense net, in whose
+close mesh, black against the sky, the heavy yards seemed to be entangled
+and suspended.
+
+It was a sight. The humblest craft that floats makes its appeal to a
+seaman by the faithfulness of her life; and this was the place where one
+beheld the aristocracy of ships. It was a noble gathering of the fairest
+and the swiftest, each bearing at the bow the carved emblem of her name,
+as in a gallery of plaster-casts, figures of women with mural crowns,
+women with flowing robes, with gold fillets on their hair or blue scarves
+round their waists, stretching out rounded arms as if to point the way;
+heads of men helmeted or bare; full lengths of warriors, of kings, of
+statesmen, of lords and princesses, all white from top to toe; with here
+and there a dusky turbaned figure, bedizened in many colours, of some
+Eastern sultan or hero, all inclined forward under the slant of mighty
+bowsprits as if eager to begin another run of 11,000 miles in their
+leaning attitudes. These were the fine figure-heads of the finest ships
+afloat. But why, unless for the love of the life those effigies shared
+with us in their wandering impassivity, should one try to reproduce in
+words an impression of whose fidelity there can be no critic and no
+judge, since such an exhibition of the art of shipbuilding and the art of
+figure-head carving as was seen from year’s end to year’s end in the
+open-air gallery of the New South Dock no man’s eye shall behold again?
+All that patient, pale company of queens and princesses, of kings and
+warriors, of allegorical women, of heroines and statesmen and heathen
+gods, crowned, helmeted, bare-headed, has run for good off the sea
+stretching to the last above the tumbling foam their fair, rounded arms;
+holding out their spears, swords, shields, tridents in the same
+unwearied, striving forward pose. And nothing remains but lingering
+perhaps in the memory of a few men, the sound of their names, vanished a
+long time ago from the first page of the great London dailies; from big
+posters in railway-stations and the doors of shipping offices; from the
+minds of sailors, dockmasters, pilots, and tugmen; from the hail of gruff
+voices and the flutter of signal flags exchanged between ships closing
+upon each other and drawing apart in the open immensity of the sea.
+
+The elderly, respectable seaman, withdrawing his gaze from that multitude
+of spars, gave me a glance to make sure of our fellowship in the craft
+and mystery of the sea. We had met casually, and had got into contact as
+I had stopped near him, my attention being caught by the same peculiarity
+he was looking at in the rigging of an obviously new ship, a ship with
+her reputation all to make yet in the talk of the seamen who were to
+share their life with her. Her name was already on their lips. I had
+heard it uttered between two thick, red-necked fellows of the
+semi-nautical type at the Fenchurch Street Railway-station, where, in
+those days, the everyday male crowd was attired in jerseys and
+pilot-cloth mostly, and had the air of being more conversant with the
+times of high-water than with the times of the trains. I had noticed
+that new ship’s name on the first page of my morning paper. I had stared
+at the unfamiliar grouping of its letters, blue on white ground, on the
+advertisement-boards, whenever the train came to a standstill alongside
+one of the shabby, wooden, wharf-like platforms of the dock railway-line.
+She had been named, with proper observances, on the day she came off the
+stocks, no doubt, but she was very far yet from “having a name.”
+Untried, ignorant of the ways of the sea, she had been thrust amongst
+that renowned company of ships to load for her maiden voyage. There was
+nothing to vouch for her soundness and the worth of her character, but
+the reputation of the building-yard whence she was launched headlong into
+the world of waters. She looked modest to me. I imagined her diffident,
+lying very quiet, with her side nestling shyly against the wharf to which
+she was made fast with very new lines, intimidated by the company of her
+tried and experienced sisters already familiar with all the violences of
+the ocean and the exacting love of men. They had had more long voyages
+to make their names in than she had known weeks of carefully tended life,
+for a new ship receives as much attention as if she were a young bride.
+Even crabbed old dock-masters look at her with benevolent eyes. In her
+shyness at the threshold of a laborious and uncertain life, where so much
+is expected of a ship, she could not have been better heartened and
+comforted, had she only been able to hear and understand, than by the
+tone of deep conviction in which my elderly, respectable seaman repeated
+the first part of his saying, “Ships are all right . . .”
+
+His civility prevented him from repeating the other, the bitter part. It
+had occurred to him that it was perhaps indelicate to insist. He had
+recognised in me a ship’s officer, very possibly looking for a berth like
+himself, and so far a comrade, but still a man belonging to that
+sparsely-peopled after-end of a ship, where a great part of her
+reputation as a “good ship,” in seaman’s parlance, is made or marred.
+
+“Can you say that of all ships without exception?” I asked, being in an
+idle mood, because, if an obvious ship’s officer, I was not, as a matter
+of fact, down at the docks to “look for a berth,” an occupation as
+engrossing as gambling, and as little favourable to the free exchange of
+ideas, besides being destructive of the kindly temper needed for casual
+intercourse with one’s fellow-creatures.
+
+“You can always put up with ’em,” opined the respectable seaman
+judicially.
+
+He was not averse from talking, either. If he had come down to the dock
+to look for a berth, he did not seem oppressed by anxiety as to his
+chances. He had the serenity of a man whose estimable character is
+fortunately expressed by his personal appearance in an unobtrusive, yet
+convincing, manner which no chief officer in want of hands could resist.
+And, true enough, I learned presently that the mate of the _Hyperion_ had
+“taken down” his name for quarter-master. “We sign on Friday, and join
+next day for the morning tide,” he remarked, in a deliberate, careless
+tone, which contrasted strongly with his evident readiness to stand there
+yarning for an hour or so with an utter stranger.
+
+“_Hyperion_,” I said. “I don’t remember ever seeing that ship anywhere.
+What sort of a name has she got?”
+
+It appeared from his discursive answer that she had not much of a name
+one way or another. She was not very fast. It took no fool, though, to
+steer her straight, he believed. Some years ago he had seen her in
+Calcutta, and he remembered being told by somebody then, that on her
+passage up the river she had carried away both her hawse-pipes. But that
+might have been the pilot’s fault. Just now, yarning with the
+apprentices on board, he had heard that this very voyage, brought up in
+the Downs, outward bound, she broke her sheer, struck adrift, and lost an
+anchor and chain. But that might have occurred through want of careful
+tending in a tideway. All the same, this looked as though she were
+pretty hard on her ground-tackle. Didn’t it? She seemed a heavy ship to
+handle, anyway. For the rest, as she had a new captain and a new mate
+this voyage, he understood, one couldn’t say how she would turn out. . . .
+
+In such marine shore-talk as this is the name of a ship slowly
+established, her fame made for her, the tale of her qualities and of her
+defects kept, her idiosyncrasies commented upon with the zest of personal
+gossip, her achievements made much of, her faults glossed over as things
+that, being without remedy in our imperfect world, should not be dwelt
+upon too much by men who, with the help of ships, wrest out a bitter
+living from the rough grasp of the sea. All that talk makes up her
+“name,” which is handed over from one crew to another without bitterness,
+without animosity, with the indulgence of mutual dependence, and with the
+feeling of close association in the exercise of her perfections and in
+the danger of her defects.
+
+This feeling explains men’s pride in ships. “Ships are all right,” as my
+middle-aged, respectable quartermaster said with much conviction and some
+irony; but they are not exactly what men make them. They have their own
+nature; they can of themselves minister to our self-esteem by the demand
+their qualities make upon our skill and their shortcomings upon our
+hardiness and endurance. Which is the more flattering exaction it is
+hard to say; but there is the fact that in listening for upwards of
+twenty years to the sea-talk that goes on afloat and ashore I have never
+detected the true note of animosity. I won’t deny that at sea,
+sometimes, the note of profanity was audible enough in those chiding
+interpellations a wet, cold, weary seaman addresses to his ship, and in
+moments of exasperation is disposed to extend to all ships that ever were
+launched—to the whole everlastingly exacting brood that swims in deep
+waters. And I have heard curses launched at the unstable element itself,
+whose fascination, outlasting the accumulated experience of ages, had
+captured him as it had captured the generations of his forebears.
+
+For all that has been said of the love that certain natures (on shore)
+have professed to feel for it, for all the celebrations it had been the
+object of in prose and song, the sea has never been friendly to man. At
+most it has been the accomplice of human restlessness, and playing the
+part of dangerous abettor of world-wide ambitions. Faithful to no race
+after the manner of the kindly earth, receiving no impress from valour
+and toil and self-sacrifice, recognising no finality of dominion, the sea
+has never adopted the cause of its masters like those lands where the
+victorious nations of mankind have taken root, rocking their cradles and
+setting up their gravestones. He—man or people—who, putting his trust in
+the friendship of the sea, neglects the strength and cunning of his right
+hand, is a fool! As if it were too great, too mighty for common virtues,
+the ocean has no compassion, no faith, no law, no memory. Its fickleness
+is to be held true to men’s purposes only by an undaunted resolution and
+by a sleepless, armed, jealous vigilance, in which, perhaps, there has
+always been more hate than love. _Odi et amo_ may well be the confession
+of those who consciously or blindly have surrendered their existence to
+the fascination of the sea. All the tempestuous passions of mankind’s
+young days, the love of loot and the love of glory, the love of adventure
+and the love of danger, with the great love of the unknown and vast
+dreams of dominion and power, have passed like images reflected from a
+mirror, leaving no record upon the mysterious face of the sea.
+Impenetrable and heartless, the sea has given nothing of itself to the
+suitors for its precarious favours. Unlike the earth, it cannot be
+subjugated at any cost of patience and toil. For all its fascination
+that has lured so many to a violent death, its immensity has never been
+loved as the mountains, the plains, the desert itself, have been loved.
+Indeed, I suspect that, leaving aside the protestations and tributes of
+writers who, one is safe in saying, care for little else in the world
+than the rhythm of their lines and the cadence of their phrase, the love
+of the sea, to which some men and nations confess so readily, is a
+complex sentiment wherein pride enters for much, necessity for not a
+little, and the love of ships—the untiring servants of our hopes and our
+self-esteem—for the best and most genuine part. For the hundreds who
+have reviled the sea, beginning with Shakespeare in the line—
+
+ “More fell than hunger, anguish, or the sea,”
+
+down to the last obscure sea-dog of the “old model,” having but few words
+and still fewer thoughts, there could not be found, I believe, one sailor
+who has ever coupled a curse with the good or bad name of a ship. If
+ever his profanity, provoked by the hardships of the sea, went so far as
+to touch his ship, it would be lightly, as a hand may, without sin, be
+laid in the way of kindness on a woman.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVI.
+
+
+The love that is given to ships is profoundly different from the love men
+feel for every other work of their hands—the love they bear to their
+houses, for instance—because it is untainted by the pride of possession.
+The pride of skill, the pride of responsibility, the pride of endurance
+there may be, but otherwise it is a disinterested sentiment. No seaman
+ever cherished a ship, even if she belonged to him, merely because of the
+profit she put in his pocket. No one, I think, ever did; for a
+ship-owner, even of the best, has always been outside the pale of that
+sentiment embracing in a feeling of intimate, equal fellowship the ship
+and the man, backing each other against the implacable, if sometimes
+dissembled, hostility of their world of waters. The sea—this truth must
+be confessed—has no generosity. No display of manly qualities—courage,
+hardihood, endurance, faithfulness—has ever been known to touch its
+irresponsible consciousness of power. The ocean has the conscienceless
+temper of a savage autocrat spoiled by much adulation. He cannot brook
+the slightest appearance of defiance, and has remained the irreconcilable
+enemy of ships and men ever since ships and men had the unheard of
+audacity to go afloat together in the face of his frown. From that day
+he has gone on swallowing up fleets and men without his resentment being
+glutted by the number of victims—by so many wrecked ships and wrecked
+lives. To-day, as ever, he is ready to beguile and betray, to smash and
+to drown the incorrigible optimism of men who, backed by the fidelity of
+ships, are trying to wrest from him the fortune of their house, the
+dominion of their world, or only a dole of food for their hunger. If not
+always in the hot mood to smash, he is always stealthily ready for a
+drowning. The most amazing wonder of the deep is its unfathomable
+cruelty.
+
+I felt its dread for the first time in mid-Atlantic one day, many years
+ago, when we took off the crew of a Danish brig homeward bound from the
+West Indies. A thin, silvery mist softened the calm and majestic
+splendour of light without shadows—seemed to render the sky less remote
+and the ocean less immense. It was one of the days, when the might of
+the sea appears indeed lovable, like the nature of a strong man in
+moments of quiet intimacy. At sunrise we had made out a black speck to
+the westward, apparently suspended high up in the void behind a stirring,
+shimmering veil of silvery blue gauze that seemed at times to stir and
+float in the breeze which fanned us slowly along. The peace of that
+enchanting forenoon was so profound, so untroubled, that it seemed that
+every word pronounced loudly on our deck would penetrate to the very
+heart of that infinite mystery born from the conjunction of water and
+sky. We did not raise our voices. “A water-logged derelict, I think,
+sir,” said the second officer quietly, coming down from aloft with the
+binoculars in their case slung across his shoulders; and our captain,
+without a word, signed to the helmsman to steer for the black speck.
+Presently we made out a low, jagged stump sticking up forward—all that
+remained of her departed masts.
+
+The captain was expatiating in a low conversational tone to the chief
+mate upon the danger of these derelicts, and upon his dread of coming
+upon them at night, when suddenly a man forward screamed out, “There’s
+people on board of her, sir! I see them!” in a most extraordinary
+voice—a voice never heard before in our ship; the amazing voice of a
+stranger. It gave the signal for a sudden tumult of shouts. The watch
+below ran up the forecastle head in a body, the cook dashed out of the
+galley. Everybody saw the poor fellows now. They were there! And all
+at once our ship, which had the well-earned name of being without a rival
+for speed in light winds, seemed to us to have lost the power of motion,
+as if the sea, becoming viscous, had clung to her sides. And yet she
+moved. Immensity, the inseparable companion of a ship’s life, chose that
+day to breathe upon her as gently as a sleeping child. The clamour of
+our excitement had died out, and our living ship, famous for never losing
+steerage way as long as there was air enough to float a feather, stole,
+without a ripple, silent and white as a ghost, towards her mutilated and
+wounded sister, come upon at the point of death in the sunlit haze of a
+calm day at sea.
+
+With the binoculars glued to his eyes, the captain said in a quavering
+tone: “They are waving to us with something aft there.” He put down the
+glasses on the skylight brusquely, and began to walk about the poop. “A
+shirt or a flag,” he ejaculated irritably. “Can’t make it out. . . Some
+damn rag or other!” He took a few more turns on the poop, glancing down
+over the rail now and then to see how fast we were moving. His nervous
+footsteps rang sharply in the quiet of the ship, where the other men, all
+looking the same way, had forgotten themselves in a staring immobility.
+“This will never do!” he cried out suddenly. “Lower the boats at once!
+Down with them!”
+
+Before I jumped into mine he took me aside, as being an inexperienced
+junior, for a word of warning:
+
+“You look out as you come alongside that she doesn’t take you down with
+her. You understand?”
+
+He murmured this confidentially, so that none of the men at the falls
+should overhear, and I was shocked. “Heavens! as if in such an emergency
+one stopped to think of danger!” I exclaimed to myself mentally, in scorn
+of such cold-blooded caution.
+
+It takes many lessons to make a real seaman, and I got my rebuke at once.
+My experienced commander seemed in one searching glance to read my
+thoughts on my ingenuous face.
+
+“What you’re going for is to save life, not to drown your boat’s crew for
+nothing,” he growled severely in my ear. But as we shoved off he leaned
+over and cried out: “It all rests on the power of your arms, men. Give
+way for life!”
+
+We made a race of it, and I would never have believed that a common
+boat’s crew of a merchantman could keep up so much determined fierceness
+in the regular swing of their stroke. What our captain had clearly
+perceived before we left had become plain to all of us since. The issue
+of our enterprise hung on a hair above that abyss of waters which will
+not give up its dead till the Day of Judgment. It was a race of two
+ship’s boats matched against Death for a prize of nine men’s lives, and
+Death had a long start. We saw the crew of the brig from afar working at
+the pumps—still pumping on that wreck, which already had settled so far
+down that the gentle, low swell, over which our boats rose and fell
+easily without a check to their speed, welling up almost level with her
+head-rails, plucked at the ends of broken gear swinging desolately under
+her naked bowsprit.
+
+We could not, in all conscience, have picked out a better day for our
+regatta had we had the free choice of all the days that ever dawned upon
+the lonely struggles and solitary agonies of ships since the Norse rovers
+first steered to the westward against the run of Atlantic waves. It was
+a very good race. At the finish there was not an oar’s length between
+the first and second boat, with Death coming in a good third on the top
+of the very next smooth swell, for all one knew to the contrary. The
+scuppers of the brig gurgled softly all together when the water rising
+against her sides subsided sleepily with a low wash, as if playing about
+an immovable rock. Her bulwarks were gone fore and aft, and one saw her
+bare deck low-lying like a raft and swept clean of boats, spars,
+houses—of everything except the ringbolts and the heads of the pumps. I
+had one dismal glimpse of it as I braced myself up to receive upon my
+breast the last man to leave her, the captain, who literally let himself
+fall into my arms.
+
+It had been a weirdly silent rescue—a rescue without a hail, without a
+single uttered word, without a gesture or a sign, without a conscious
+exchange of glances. Up to the very last moment those on board stuck to
+their pumps, which spouted two clear streams of water upon their bare
+feet. Their brown skin showed through the rents of their shirts; and the
+two small bunches of half-naked, tattered men went on bowing from the
+waist to each other in their back-breaking labour, up and down, absorbed,
+with no time for a glance over the shoulder at the help that was coming
+to them. As we dashed, unregarded, alongside a voice let out one, only
+one hoarse howl of command, and then, just as they stood, without caps,
+with the salt drying gray in the wrinkles and folds of their hairy,
+haggard faces, blinking stupidly at us their red eyelids, they made a
+bolt away from the handles, tottering and jostling against each other,
+and positively flung themselves over upon our very heads. The clatter
+they made tumbling into the boats had an extraordinarily destructive
+effect upon the illusion of tragic dignity our self-esteem had thrown
+over the contests of mankind with the sea. On that exquisite day of
+gently breathing peace and veiled sunshine perished my romantic love to
+what men’s imagination had proclaimed the most august aspect of Nature.
+The cynical indifference of the sea to the merits of human suffering and
+courage, laid bare in this ridiculous, panic-tainted performance extorted
+from the dire extremity of nine good and honourable seamen, revolted me.
+I saw the duplicity of the sea’s most tender mood. It was so because it
+could not help itself, but the awed respect of the early days was gone.
+I felt ready to smile bitterly at its enchanting charm and glare
+viciously at its furies. In a moment, before we shoved off, I had looked
+coolly at the life of my choice. Its illusions were gone, but its
+fascination remained. I had become a seaman at last.
+
+We pulled hard for a quarter of an hour, then laid on our oars waiting
+for our ship. She was coming down on us with swelling sails, looking
+delicately tall and exquisitely noble through the mist. The captain of
+the brig, who sat in the stern sheets by my side with his face in his
+hands, raised his head and began to speak with a sort of sombre
+volubility. They had lost their masts and sprung a leak in a hurricane;
+drifted for weeks, always at the pumps, met more bad weather; the ships
+they sighted failed to make them out, the leak gained upon them slowly,
+and the seas had left them nothing to make a raft of. It was very hard
+to see ship after ship pass by at a distance, “as if everybody had agreed
+that we must be left to drown,” he added. But they went on trying to
+keep the brig afloat as long as possible, and working the pumps
+constantly on insufficient food, mostly raw, till “yesterday evening,” he
+continued monotonously, “just as the sun went down, the men’s hearts
+broke.”
+
+He made an almost imperceptible pause here, and went on again with
+exactly the same intonation:
+
+“They told me the brig could not be saved, and they thought they had done
+enough for themselves. I said nothing to that. It was true. It was no
+mutiny. I had nothing to say to them. They lay about aft all night, as
+still as so many dead men. I did not lie down. I kept a look-out. When
+the first light came I saw your ship at once. I waited for more light;
+the breeze began to fail on my face. Then I shouted out as loud as I was
+able, ‘Look at that ship!’ but only two men got up very slowly and came
+to me. At first only we three stood alone, for a long time, watching you
+coming down to us, and feeling the breeze drop to a calm almost; but
+afterwards others, too, rose, one after another, and by-and-by I had all
+my crew behind me. I turned round and said to them that they could see
+the ship was coming our way, but in this small breeze she might come too
+late after all, unless we turned to and tried to keep the brig afloat
+long enough to give you time to save us all. I spoke like that to them,
+and then I gave the command to man the pumps.”
+
+He gave the command, and gave the example, too, by going himself to the
+handles, but it seems that these men did actually hang back for a moment,
+looking at each other dubiously before they followed him. “He! he! he!”
+He broke out into a most unexpected, imbecile, pathetic, nervous little
+giggle. “Their hearts were broken so! They had been played with too
+long,” he explained apologetically, lowering his eyes, and became silent.
+
+Twenty-five years is a long time—a quarter of a century is a dim and
+distant past; but to this day I remember the dark-brown feet, hands, and
+faces of two of these men whose hearts had been broken by the sea. They
+were lying very still on their sides on the bottom boards between the
+thwarts, curled up like dogs. My boat’s crew, leaning over the looms of
+their oars, stared and listened as if at the play. The master of the
+brig looked up suddenly to ask me what day it was.
+
+They had lost the date. When I told him it was Sunday, the 22nd, he
+frowned, making some mental calculation, then nodded twice sadly to
+himself, staring at nothing.
+
+His aspect was miserably unkempt and wildly sorrowful. Had it not been
+for the unquenchable candour of his blue eyes, whose unhappy, tired
+glance every moment sought his abandoned, sinking brig, as if it could
+find rest nowhere else, he would have appeared mad. But he was too
+simple to go mad, too simple with that manly simplicity which alone can
+bear men unscathed in mind and body through an encounter with the deadly
+playfulness of the sea or with its less abominable fury.
+
+Neither angry, nor playful, nor smiling, it enveloped our distant ship
+growing bigger as she neared us, our boats with the rescued men and the
+dismantled hull of the brig we were leaving behind, in the large and
+placid embrace of its quietness, half lost in the fair haze, as if in a
+dream of infinite and tender clemency. There was no frown, no wrinkle on
+its face, not a ripple. And the run of the slight swell was so smooth
+that it resembled the graceful undulation of a piece of shimmering gray
+silk shot with gleams of green. We pulled an easy stroke; but when the
+master of the brig, after a glance over his shoulder, stood up with a low
+exclamation, my men feathered their oars instinctively, without an order,
+and the boat lost her way.
+
+He was steadying himself on my shoulder with a strong grip, while his
+other arm, flung up rigidly, pointed a denunciatory finger at the immense
+tranquillity of the ocean. After his first exclamation, which stopped
+the swing of our oars, he made no sound, but his whole attitude seemed to
+cry out an indignant “Behold!” . . . I could not imagine what vision of
+evil had come to him. I was startled, and the amazing energy of his
+immobilized gesture made my heart beat faster with the anticipation of
+something monstrous and unsuspected. The stillness around us became
+crushing.
+
+For a moment the succession of silky undulations ran on innocently. I
+saw each of them swell up the misty line of the horizon, far, far away
+beyond the derelict brig, and the next moment, with a slight friendly
+toss of our boat, it had passed under us and was gone. The lulling
+cadence of the rise and fall, the invariable gentleness of this
+irresistible force, the great charm of the deep waters, warmed my breast
+deliciously, like the subtle poison of a love-potion. But all this
+lasted only a few soothing seconds before I jumped up too, making the
+boat roll like the veriest landlubber.
+
+Something startling, mysterious, hastily confused, was taking place. I
+watched it with incredulous and fascinated awe, as one watches the
+confused, swift movements of some deed of violence done in the dark. As
+if at a given signal, the run of the smooth undulations seemed checked
+suddenly around the brig. By a strange optical delusion the whole sea
+appeared to rise upon her in one overwhelming heave of its silky surface,
+where in one spot a smother of foam broke out ferociously. And then the
+effort subsided. It was all over, and the smooth swell ran on as before
+from the horizon in uninterrupted cadence of motion, passing under us
+with a slight friendly toss of our boat. Far away, where the brig had
+been, an angry white stain undulating on the surface of steely-gray
+waters, shot with gleams of green, diminished swiftly, without a hiss,
+like a patch of pure snow melting in the sun. And the great stillness
+after this initiation into the sea’s implacable hate seemed full of dread
+thoughts and shadows of disaster.
+
+“Gone!” ejaculated from the depths of his chest my bowman in a final
+tone. He spat in his hands, and took a better grip on his oar. The
+captain of the brig lowered his rigid arm slowly, and looked at our faces
+in a solemnly conscious silence, which called upon us to share in his
+simple-minded, marvelling awe. All at once he sat down by my side, and
+leaned forward earnestly at my boat’s crew, who, swinging together in a
+long, easy stroke, kept their eyes fixed upon him faithfully.
+
+“No ship could have done so well,” he addressed them firmly, after a
+moment of strained silence, during which he seemed with trembling lips to
+seek for words fit to bear such high testimony. “She was small, but she
+was good. I had no anxiety. She was strong. Last voyage I had my wife
+and two children in her. No other ship could have stood so long the
+weather she had to live through for days and days before we got dismasted
+a fortnight ago. She was fairly worn out, and that’s all. You may
+believe me. She lasted under us for days and days, but she could not
+last for ever. It was long enough. I am glad it is over. No better
+ship was ever left to sink at sea on such a day as this.”
+
+He was competent to pronounce the funereal oration of a ship, this son of
+ancient sea-folk, whose national existence, so little stained by the
+excesses of manly virtues, had demanded nothing but the merest foothold
+from the earth. By the merits of his sea-wise forefathers and by the
+artlessness of his heart, he was made fit to deliver this excellent
+discourse. There was nothing wanting in its orderly arrangement—neither
+piety nor faith, nor the tribute of praise due to the worthy dead, with
+the edifying recital of their achievement. She had lived, he had loved
+her; she had suffered, and he was glad she was at rest. It was an
+excellent discourse. And it was orthodox, too, in its fidelity to the
+cardinal article of a seaman’s faith, of which it was a single-minded
+confession. “Ships are all right.” They are. They who live with the
+sea have got to hold by that creed first and last; and it came to me, as
+I glanced at him sideways, that some men were not altogether unworthy in
+honour and conscience to pronounce the funereal eulogium of a ship’s
+constancy in life and death.
+
+After this, sitting by my side with his loosely-clasped hands hanging
+between his knees, he uttered no word, made no movement till the shadow
+of our ship’s sails fell on the boat, when, at the loud cheer greeting
+the return of the victors with their prize, he lifted up his troubled
+face with a faint smile of pathetic indulgence. This smile of the worthy
+descendant of the most ancient sea-folk whose audacity and hardihood had
+left no trace of greatness and glory upon the waters, completed the cycle
+of my initiation. There was an infinite depth of hereditary wisdom in
+its pitying sadness. It made the hearty bursts of cheering sound like a
+childish noise of triumph. Our crew shouted with immense
+confidence—honest souls! As if anybody could ever make sure of having
+prevailed against the sea, which has betrayed so many ships of great
+“name,” so many proud men, so many towering ambitions of fame, power,
+wealth, greatness!
+
+As I brought the boat under the falls my captain, in high good-humour,
+leaned over, spreading his red and freckled elbows on the rail, and
+called down to me sarcastically, out of the depths of his cynic
+philosopher’s beard:
+
+“So you have brought the boat back after all, have you?”
+
+Sarcasm was “his way,” and the most that can be said for it is that it
+was natural. This did not make it lovable. But it is decorous and
+expedient to fall in with one’s commander’s way. “Yes. I brought the
+boat back all right, sir,” I answered. And the good man believed me. It
+was not for him to discern upon me the marks of my recent initiation.
+And yet I was not exactly the same youngster who had taken the boat
+away—all impatience for a race against death, with the prize of nine
+men’s lives at the end.
+
+Already I looked with other eyes upon the sea. I knew it capable of
+betraying the generous ardour of youth as implacably as, indifferent to
+evil and good, it would have betrayed the basest greed or the noblest
+heroism. My conception of its magnanimous greatness was gone. And I
+looked upon the true sea—the sea that plays with men till their hearts
+are broken, and wears stout ships to death. Nothing can touch the
+brooding bitterness of its heart. Open to all and faithful to none, it
+exercises its fascination for the undoing of the best. To love it is not
+well. It knows no bond of plighted troth, no fidelity to misfortune, to
+long companionship, to long devotion. The promise it holds out
+perpetually is very great; but the only secret of its possession is
+strength, strength—the jealous, sleepless strength of a man guarding a
+coveted treasure within his gates.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVII.
+
+
+THE cradle of oversea traffic and of the art of naval combats, the
+Mediterranean, apart from all the associations of adventure and glory,
+the common heritage of all mankind, makes a tender appeal to a seaman.
+It has sheltered the infancy of his craft. He looks upon it as a man may
+look at a vast nursery in an old, old mansion where innumerable
+generations of his own people have learned to walk. I say his own people
+because, in a sense, all sailors belong to one family: all are descended
+from that adventurous and shaggy ancestor who, bestriding a shapeless log
+and paddling with a crooked branch, accomplished the first coasting-trip
+in a sheltered bay ringing with the admiring howls of his tribe. It is a
+matter of regret that all those brothers in craft and feeling, whose
+generations have learned to walk a ship’s deck in that nursery, have been
+also more than once fiercely engaged in cutting each other’s throats
+there. But life, apparently, has such exigencies. Without human
+propensity to murder and other sorts of unrighteousness there would have
+been no historical heroism. It is a consoling reflection. And then, if
+one examines impartially the deeds of violence, they appear of but small
+consequence. From Salamis to Actium, through Lepanto and the Nile to the
+naval massacre of Navarino, not to mention other armed encounters of
+lesser interest, all the blood heroically spilt into the Mediterranean
+has not stained with a single trail of purple the deep azure of its
+classic waters.
+
+Of course, it may be argued that battles have shaped the destiny of
+mankind. The question whether they have shaped it well would remain
+open, however. But it would be hardly worth discussing. It is very
+probable that, had the Battle of Salamis never been fought, the face of
+the world would have been much as we behold it now, fashioned by the
+mediocre inspiration and the short-sighted labours of men. From a long
+and miserable experience of suffering, injustice, disgrace and aggression
+the nations of the earth are mostly swayed by fear—fear of the sort that
+a little cheap oratory turns easily to rage, hate, and violence.
+Innocent, guileless fear has been the cause of many wars. Not, of
+course, the fear of war itself, which, in the evolution of sentiments and
+ideas, has come to be regarded at last as a half-mystic and glorious
+ceremony with certain fashionable rites and preliminary incantations,
+wherein the conception of its true nature has been lost. To apprehend
+the true aspect, force, and morality of war as a natural function of
+mankind one requires a feather in the hair and a ring in the nose, or,
+better still, teeth filed to a point and a tattooed breast.
+Unfortunately, a return to such simple ornamentation is impossible. We
+are bound to the chariot of progress. There is no going back; and, as
+bad luck would have it, our civilization, which has done so much for the
+comfort and adornment of our bodies and the elevation of our minds, has
+made lawful killing frightfully and needlessly expensive.
+
+The whole question of improved armaments has been approached by the
+governments of the earth in a spirit of nervous and unreflecting haste,
+whereas the right way was lying plainly before them, and had only to be
+pursued with calm determination. The learned vigils and labours of a
+certain class of inventors should have been rewarded with honourable
+liberality as justice demanded; and the bodies of the inventors should
+have been blown to pieces by means of their own perfected explosives and
+improved weapons with extreme publicity as the commonest prudence
+dictated. By this method the ardour of research in that direction would
+have been restrained without infringing the sacred privileges of science.
+For the lack of a little cool thinking in our guides and masters this
+course has not been followed, and a beautiful simplicity has been
+sacrificed for no real advantage. A frugal mind cannot defend itself
+from considerable bitterness when reflecting that at the Battle of Actium
+(which was fought for no less a stake than the dominion of the world) the
+fleet of Octavianus Cæsar and the fleet of Antonius, including the
+Egyptian division and Cleopatra’s galley with purple sails, probably cost
+less than two modern battleships, or, as the modern naval book-jargon has
+it, two capital units. But no amount of lubberly book-jargon can
+disguise a fact well calculated to afflict the soul of every sound
+economist. It is not likely that the Mediterranean will ever behold a
+battle with a greater issue; but when the time comes for another
+historical fight its bottom will be enriched as never before by a
+quantity of jagged scrap-iron, paid for at pretty nearly its weight of
+gold by the deluded populations inhabiting the isles and continents of
+this planet.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVIII.
+
+
+Happy he who, like Ulysses, has made an adventurous voyage; and there is
+no such sea for adventurous voyages as the Mediterranean—the inland sea
+which the ancients looked upon as so vast and so full of wonders. And,
+indeed, it was terrible and wonderful; for it is we alone who, swayed by
+the audacity of our minds and the tremors of our hearts, are the sole
+artisans of all the wonder and romance of the world.
+
+It was for the Mediterranean sailors that fair-haired sirens sang among
+the black rocks seething in white foam and mysterious voices spoke in the
+darkness above the moving wave—voices menacing, seductive, or prophetic,
+like that voice heard at the beginning of the Christian era by the master
+of an African vessel in the Gulf of Syrta, whose calm nights are full of
+strange murmurs and flitting shadows. It called him by name, bidding him
+go and tell all men that the great god Pan was dead. But the great
+legend of the Mediterranean, the legend of traditional song and grave
+history, lives, fascinating and immortal, in our minds.
+
+The dark and fearful sea of the subtle Ulysses’ wanderings, agitated by
+the wrath of Olympian gods, harbouring on its isles the fury of strange
+monsters and the wiles of strange women; the highway of heroes and sages,
+of warriors, pirates, and saints; the workaday sea of Carthaginian
+merchants and the pleasure lake of the Roman Cæsars, claims the
+veneration of every seaman as the historical home of that spirit of open
+defiance against the great waters of the earth which is the very soul of
+his calling. Issuing thence to the west and south, as a youth leaves the
+shelter of his parental house, this spirit found the way to the Indies,
+discovered the coasts of a new continent, and traversed at last the
+immensity of the great Pacific, rich in groups of islands remote and
+mysterious like the constellations of the sky.
+
+The first impulse of navigation took its visible form in that tideless
+basin freed from hidden shoals and treacherous currents, as if in tender
+regard for the infancy of the art. The steep shores of the Mediterranean
+favoured the beginners in one of humanity’s most daring enterprises, and
+the enchanting inland sea of classic adventure has led mankind gently
+from headland to headland, from bay to bay, from island to island, out
+into the promise of world-wide oceans beyond the Pillars of Hercules.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIX.
+
+
+The charm of the Mediterranean dwells in the unforgettable flavour of my
+early days, and to this hour this sea, upon which the Romans alone ruled
+without dispute, has kept for me the fascination of youthful romance.
+The very first Christmas night I ever spent away from land was employed
+in running before a Gulf of Lions gale, which made the old ship groan in
+every timber as she skipped before it over the short seas until we
+brought her to, battered and out of breath, under the lee of Majorca,
+where the smooth water was torn by fierce cat’s-paws under a very stormy
+sky.
+
+We—or, rather, they, for I had hardly had two glimpses of salt water in
+my life till then—kept her standing off and on all that day, while I
+listened for the first time with the curiosity of my tender years to the
+song of the wind in a ship’s rigging. The monotonous and vibrating note
+was destined to grow into the intimacy of the heart, pass into blood and
+bone, accompany the thoughts and acts of two full decades, remain to
+haunt like a reproach the peace of the quiet fireside, and enter into the
+very texture of respectable dreams dreamed safely under a roof of rafters
+and tiles. The wind was fair, but that day we ran no more.
+
+The thing (I will not call her a ship twice in the same half-hour)
+leaked. She leaked fully, generously, overflowingly, all over—like a
+basket. I took an enthusiastic part in the excitement caused by that
+last infirmity of noble ships, without concerning myself much with the
+why or the wherefore. The surmise of my maturer years is that, bored by
+her interminable life, the venerable antiquity was simply yawning with
+ennui at every seam. But at the time I did not know; I knew generally
+very little, and least of all what I was doing in that _galère_.
+
+I remember that, exactly as in the comedy of Molière, my uncle asked the
+precise question in the very words—not of my confidential valet, however,
+but across great distances of land, in a letter whose mocking but
+indulgent turn ill concealed his almost paternal anxiety. I fancy I
+tried to convey to him my (utterly unfounded) impression that the West
+Indies awaited my coming. I had to go there. It was a sort of mystic
+conviction—something in the nature of a call. But it was difficult to
+state intelligibly the grounds of this belief to that man of rigorous
+logic, if of infinite charity.
+
+The truth must have been that, all unversed in the arts of the wily
+Greek, the deceiver of gods, the lover of strange women, the evoker of
+bloodthirsty shades, I yet longed for the beginning of my own obscure
+Odyssey, which, as was proper for a modern, should unroll its wonders and
+terrors beyond the Pillars of Hercules. The disdainful ocean did not
+open wide to swallow up my audacity, though the ship, the ridiculous and
+ancient _galère_ of my folly, the old, weary, disenchanted sugar-waggon,
+seemed extremely disposed to open out and swallow up as much salt water
+as she could hold. This, if less grandiose, would have been as final a
+catastrophe.
+
+But no catastrophe occurred. I lived to watch on a strange shore a black
+and youthful Nausicaa, with a joyous train of attendant maidens, carrying
+baskets of linen to a clear stream overhung by the heads of slender
+palm-trees. The vivid colours of their draped raiment and the gold of
+their earrings invested with a barbaric and regal magnificence their
+figures, stepping out freely in a shower of broken sunshine. The
+whiteness of their teeth was still more dazzling than the splendour of
+jewels at their ears. The shaded side of the ravine gleamed with their
+smiles. They were as unabashed as so many princesses, but, alas! not one
+of them was the daughter of a jet-black sovereign. Such was my
+abominable luck in being born by the mere hair’s breadth of twenty-five
+centuries too late into a world where kings have been growing scarce with
+scandalous rapidity, while the few who remain have adopted the
+uninteresting manners and customs of simple millionaires. Obviously it
+was a vain hope in 187– to see the ladies of a royal household walk in
+chequered sunshine, with baskets of linen on their heads, to the banks of
+a clear stream overhung by the starry fronds of palm-trees. It was a
+vain hope. If I did not ask myself whether, limited by such discouraging
+impossibilities, life were still worth living, it was only because I had
+then before me several other pressing questions, some of which have
+remained unanswered to this day. The resonant, laughing voices of these
+gorgeous maidens scared away the multitude of humming-birds, whose
+delicate wings wreathed with the mist of their vibration the tops of
+flowering bushes.
+
+No, they were not princesses. Their unrestrained laughter filling the
+hot, fern-clad ravine had a soulless limpidity, as of wild, inhuman
+dwellers in tropical woodlands. Following the example of certain prudent
+travellers, I withdrew unseen—and returned, not much wiser, to the
+Mediterranean, the sea of classic adventures.
+
+
+
+
+XL.
+
+
+IT was written that there, in the nursery of our navigating ancestors, I
+should learn to walk in the ways of my craft and grow in the love of the
+sea, blind as young love often is, but absorbing and disinterested as all
+true love must be. I demanded nothing from it—not even adventure. In
+this I showed, perhaps, more intuitive wisdom than high self-denial. No
+adventure ever came to one for the asking. He who starts on a deliberate
+quest of adventure goes forth but to gather dead-sea fruit, unless,
+indeed, he be beloved of the gods and great amongst heroes, like that
+most excellent cavalier Don Quixote de la Mancha. By us ordinary mortals
+of a mediocre animus that is only too anxious to pass by wicked giants
+for so many honest windmills, adventures are entertained like visiting
+angels. They come upon our complacency unawares. As unbidden guests are
+apt to do, they often come at inconvenient times. And we are glad to let
+them go unrecognised, without any acknowledgment of so high a favour.
+After many years, on looking back from the middle turn of life’s way at
+the events of the past, which, like a friendly crowd, seem to gaze sadly
+after us hastening towards the Cimmerian shore, we may see here and
+there, in the gray throng, some figure glowing with a faint radiance, as
+though it had caught all the light of our already crepuscular sky. And
+by this glow we may recognise the faces of our true adventures, of the
+once unbidden guests entertained unawares in our young days.
+
+If the Mediterranean, the venerable (and sometimes atrociously
+ill-tempered) nurse of all navigators, was to rock my youth, the
+providing of the cradle necessary for that operation was entrusted by
+Fate to the most casual assemblage of irresponsible young men (all,
+however, older than myself) that, as if drunk with Provençal sunshine,
+frittered life away in joyous levity on the model of Balzac’s “Histoire
+des Treize” qualified by a dash of romance _de cape et d’épée_.
+
+She who was my cradle in those years had been built on the River of
+Savona by a famous builder of boats, was rigged in Corsica by another
+good man, and was described on her papers as a ‘tartane’ of sixty tons.
+In reality, she was a true balancelle, with two short masts raking
+forward and two curved yards, each as long as her hull; a true child of
+the Latin lake, with a spread of two enormous sails resembling the
+pointed wings on a sea-bird’s slender body, and herself, like a bird
+indeed, skimming rather than sailing the seas.
+
+Her name was the _Tremolino_. How is this to be translated? The
+_Quiverer_? What a name to give the pluckiest little craft that ever
+dipped her sides in angry foam! I had felt her, it is true, trembling
+for nights and days together under my feet, but it was with the
+high-strung tenseness of her faithful courage. In her short, but
+brilliant, career she has taught me nothing, but she has given me
+everything. I owe to her the awakened love for the sea that, with the
+quivering of her swift little body and the humming of the wind under the
+foot of her lateen sails, stole into my heart with a sort of gentle
+violence, and brought my imagination under its despotic sway. The
+_Tremolino_! To this day I cannot utter or even write that name without
+a strange tightening of the breast and the gasp of mingled delight and
+dread of one’s first passionate experience.
+
+
+
+
+XLI.
+
+
+We four formed (to use a term well understood nowadays in every social
+sphere) a “syndicate” owning the _Tremolino_: an international and
+astonishing syndicate. And we were all ardent Royalists of the
+snow-white Legitimist complexion—Heaven only knows why! In all
+associations of men there is generally one who, by the authority of age
+and of a more experienced wisdom, imparts a collective character to the
+whole set. If I mention that the oldest of us was very old, extremely
+old—nearly thirty years old—and that he used to declare with gallant
+carelessness, “I live by my sword,” I think I have given enough
+information on the score of our collective wisdom. He was a North
+Carolinian gentleman, J. M. K. B. were the initials of his name, and he
+really did live by the sword, as far as I know. He died by it, too,
+later on, in a Balkanian squabble, in the cause of some Serbs or else
+Bulgarians, who were neither Catholics nor gentlemen—at least, not in the
+exalted but narrow sense he attached to that last word.
+
+Poor J. M. K. B., _Américain_, _Catholique_, _et gentilhomme_, as he was
+disposed to describe himself in moments of lofty expansion! Are there
+still to be found in Europe gentlemen keen of face and elegantly slight
+of body, of distinguished aspect, with a fascinating drawing-room manner
+and with a dark, fatal glance, who live by their swords, I wonder? His
+family had been ruined in the Civil War, I fancy, and seems for a decade
+or so to have led a wandering life in the Old World. As to Henry C—, the
+next in age and wisdom of our band, he had broken loose from the
+unyielding rigidity of his family, solidly rooted, if I remember rightly,
+in a well-to-do London suburb. On their respectable authority he
+introduced himself meekly to strangers as a “black sheep.” I have never
+seen a more guileless specimen of an outcast. Never.
+
+However, his people had the grace to send him a little money now and
+then. Enamoured of the South, of Provence, of its people, its life, its
+sunshine and its poetry, narrow-chested, tall and short-sighted, he
+strode along the streets and the lanes, his long feet projecting far in
+advance of his body, and his white nose and gingery moustache buried in
+an open book: for he had the habit of reading as he walked. How he
+avoided falling into precipices, off the quays, or down staircases is a
+great mystery. The sides of his overcoat bulged out with pocket editions
+of various poets. When not engaged in reading Virgil, Homer, or Mistral,
+in parks, restaurants, streets, and suchlike public places, he indited
+sonnets (in French) to the eyes, ears, chin, hair, and other visible
+perfections of a nymph called Thérèse, the daughter, honesty compels me
+to state, of a certain Madame Leonore who kept a small café for sailors
+in one of the narrowest streets of the old town.
+
+No more charming face, clear-cut like an antique gem, and delicate in
+colouring like the petal of a flower, had ever been set on, alas! a
+somewhat squat body. He read his verses aloud to her in the very café
+with the innocence of a little child and the vanity of a poet. We
+followed him there willingly enough, if only to watch the divine Thérèse
+laugh, under the vigilant black eyes of Madame Leonore, her mother. She
+laughed very prettily, not so much at the sonnets, which she could not
+but esteem, as at poor Henry’s French accent, which was unique,
+resembling the warbling of birds, if birds ever warbled with a
+stuttering, nasal intonation.
+
+Our third partner was Roger P. de la S—, the most Scandinavian-looking of
+Provençal squires, fair, and six feet high, as became a descendant of
+sea-roving Northmen, authoritative, incisive, wittily scornful, with a
+comedy in three acts in his pocket, and in his breast a heart blighted by
+a hopeless passion for his beautiful cousin, married to a wealthy hide
+and tallow merchant. He used to take us to lunch at their house without
+ceremony. I admired the good lady’s sweet patience. The husband was a
+conciliatory soul, with a great fund of resignation, which he expended on
+“Roger’s friends.” I suspect he was secretly horrified at these
+invasions. But it was a Carlist salon, and as such we were made welcome.
+The possibility of raising Catalonia in the interest of the _Rey netto_,
+who had just then crossed the Pyrenees, was much discussed there.
+
+Don Carlos, no doubt, must have had many queer friends (it is the common
+lot of all Pretenders), but amongst them none more extravagantly
+fantastic than the _Tremolino_ Syndicate, which used to meet in a tavern
+on the quays of the old port. The antique city of Massilia had surely
+never, since the days of the earliest Phoenicians, known an odder set of
+ship-owners. We met to discuss and settle the plan of operations for
+each voyage of the _Tremolino_. In these operations a banking-house,
+too, was concerned—a very respectable banking-house. But I am afraid I
+shall end by saying too much. Ladies, too, were concerned (I am really
+afraid I am saying too much)—all sorts of ladies, some old enough to know
+better than to put their trust in princes, others young and full of
+illusions.
+
+One of these last was extremely amusing in the imitations, she gave us in
+confidence, of various highly-placed personages she was perpetually
+rushing off to Paris to interview in the interests of the cause—_Por el
+Rey_! For she was a Carlist, and of Basque blood at that, with something
+of a lioness in the expression of her courageous face (especially when
+she let her hair down), and with the volatile little soul of a sparrow
+dressed in fine Parisian feathers, which had the trick of coming off
+disconcertingly at unexpected moments.
+
+But her imitations of a Parisian personage, very highly placed indeed, as
+she represented him standing in the corner of a room with his face to the
+wall, rubbing the back of his head and moaning helplessly, “Rita, you are
+the death of me!” were enough to make one (if young and free from cares)
+split one’s sides laughing. She had an uncle still living, a very
+effective Carlist, too, the priest of a little mountain parish in
+Guipuzcoa. As the sea-going member of the syndicate (whose plans
+depended greatly on Doña Rita’s information), I used to be charged with
+humbly affectionate messages for the old man. These messages I was
+supposed to deliver to the Arragonese muleteers (who were sure to await
+at certain times the _Tremolino_ in the neighbourhood of the Gulf of
+Rosas), for faithful transportation inland, together with the various
+unlawful goods landed secretly from under the _Tremolino’s_ hatches.
+
+Well, now, I have really let out too much (as I feared I should in the
+end) as to the usual contents of my sea-cradle. But let it stand. And
+if anybody remarks cynically that I must have been a promising infant in
+those days, let that stand, too. I am concerned but for the good name of
+the _Tremolino_, and I affirm that a ship is ever guiltless of the sins,
+transgressions, and follies of her men.
+
+
+
+
+XLII.
+
+
+It was not _Tremolino’s_ fault that the syndicate depended so much on the
+wit and wisdom and the information of Doña Rita. She had taken a little
+furnished house on the Prado for the good of the cause—_Por el Rey_! She
+was always taking little houses for somebody’s good, for the sick or the
+sorry, for broken-down artists, cleaned-out gamblers, temporarily unlucky
+speculators—_vieux amis_—old friends, as she used to explain
+apologetically, with a shrug of her fine shoulders.
+
+Whether Don Carlos was one of the “old friends,” too, it’s hard to say.
+More unlikely things have been heard of in smoking-rooms. All I know is
+that one evening, entering incautiously the salon of the little house
+just after the news of a considerable Carlist success had reached the
+faithful, I was seized round the neck and waist and whirled recklessly
+three times round the room, to the crash of upsetting furniture and the
+humming of a valse tune in a warm contralto voice.
+
+When released from the dizzy embrace, I sat down on the carpet—suddenly,
+without affectation. In this unpretentious attitude I became aware that
+J. M. K. B. had followed me into the room, elegant, fatal, correct and
+severe in a white tie and large shirt-front. In answer to his politely
+sinister, prolonged glance of inquiry, I overheard Doña Rita murmuring,
+with some confusion and annoyance, “_Vous êtes bête mon cher_. _Voyons_!
+_Ça n’a aucune conséquence_.” Well content in this case to be of no
+particular consequence, I had already about me the elements of some
+worldly sense.
+
+Rearranging my collar, which, truth to say, ought to have been a round
+one above a short jacket, but was not, I observed felicitously that I had
+come to say good-bye, being ready to go off to sea that very night with
+the _Tremolino_. Our hostess, slightly panting yet, and just a shade
+dishevelled, turned tartly upon J. M. K. B., desiring to know when _he_
+would be ready to go off by the _Tremolino_, or in any other way, in
+order to join the royal headquarters. Did he intend, she asked
+ironically, to wait for the very eve of the entry into Madrid? Thus by a
+judicious exercise of tact and asperity we re-established the atmospheric
+equilibrium of the room long before I left them a little before midnight,
+now tenderly reconciled, to walk down to the harbour and hail the
+_Tremolino_ by the usual soft whistle from the edge of the quay. It was
+our signal, invariably heard by the ever-watchful Dominic, the _padrone_.
+
+He would raise a lantern silently to light my steps along the narrow,
+springy plank of our primitive gangway. “And so we are going off,” he
+would murmur directly my foot touched the deck. I was the harbinger of
+sudden departures, but there was nothing in the world sudden enough to
+take Dominic unawares. His thick black moustaches, curled every morning
+with hot tongs by the barber at the corner of the quay, seemed to hide a
+perpetual smile. But nobody, I believe, had ever seen the true shape of
+his lips. From the slow, imperturbable gravity of that broad-chested man
+you would think he had never smiled in his life. In his eyes lurked a
+look of perfectly remorseless irony, as though he had been provided with
+an extremely experienced soul; and the slightest distension of his
+nostrils would give to his bronzed face a look of extraordinary boldness.
+This was the only play of feature of which he seemed capable, being a
+Southerner of a concentrated, deliberate type. His ebony hair curled
+slightly on the temples. He may have been forty years old, and he was a
+great voyager on the inland sea.
+
+Astute and ruthless, he could have rivalled in resource the unfortunate
+son of Laertes and Anticlea. If he did not pit his craft and audacity
+against the very gods, it is only because the Olympian gods are dead.
+Certainly no woman could frighten him. A one-eyed giant would not have
+had the ghost of a chance against Dominic Cervoni, of Corsica, not
+Ithaca; and no king, son of kings, but of very respectable
+family—authentic Caporali, he affirmed. But that is as it may be. The
+Caporali families date back to the twelfth century.
+
+For want of more exalted adversaries Dominic turned his audacity fertile
+in impious stratagems against the powers of the earth, as represented by
+the institution of Custom-houses and every mortal belonging
+thereto—scribes, officers, and guardacostas afloat and ashore. He was
+the very man for us, this modern and unlawful wanderer with his own
+legend of loves, dangers, and bloodshed. He told us bits of it sometimes
+in measured, ironic tones. He spoke Catalonian, the Italian of Corsica
+and the French of Provençe with the same easy naturalness. Dressed in
+shore-togs, a white starched shirt, black jacket, and round hat, as I
+took him once to see Doña Rita, he was extremely presentable. He could
+make himself interesting by a tactful and rugged reserve set off by a
+grim, almost imperceptible, playfulness of tone and manner.
+
+He had the physical assurance of strong-hearted men. After half an
+hour’s interview in the dining-room, during which they got in touch with
+each other in an amazing way, Rita told us in her best _grande dame_
+manner: “_Mais il esi parfait_, _cet homme_.” He was perfect. On board
+the _Tremolino_, wrapped up in a black _caban_, the picturesque cloak of
+Mediterranean seamen, with those massive moustaches and his remorseless
+eyes set off by the shadow of the deep hood, he looked piratical and
+monkish and darkly initiated into the most awful mysteries of the sea.
+
+
+
+
+XLIII.
+
+
+Anyway, he was perfect, as Doña Rita had declared. The only thing
+unsatisfactory (and even inexplicable) about our Dominic was his nephew,
+Cesar. It was startling to see a desolate expression of shame veil the
+remorseless audacity in the eyes of that man superior to all scruples and
+terrors.
+
+“I would never have dared to bring him on board your balancelle,” he once
+apologized to me. “But what am I to do? His mother is dead, and my
+brother has gone into the bush.”
+
+In this way I learned that our Dominic had a brother. As to “going into
+the bush,” this only means that a man has done his duty successfully in
+the pursuit of a hereditary vendetta. The feud which had existed for
+ages between the families of Cervoni and Brunaschi was so old that it
+seemed to have smouldered out at last. One evening Pietro Brunaschi,
+after a laborious day amongst his olive-trees, sat on a chair against the
+wall of his house with a bowl of broth on his knees and a piece of bread
+in his hand. Dominic’s brother, going home with a gun on his shoulder,
+found a sudden offence in this picture of content and rest so obviously
+calculated to awaken the feelings of hatred and revenge. He and Pietro
+had never had any personal quarrel; but, as Dominic explained, “all our
+dead cried out to him.” He shouted from behind a wall of stones, “O
+Pietro! Behold what is coming!” And as the other looked up innocently
+he took aim at the forehead and squared the old vendetta account so
+neatly that, according to Dominic, the dead man continued to sit with the
+bowl of broth on his knees and the piece of bread in his hand.
+
+This is why—because in Corsica your dead will not leave you
+alone—Dominic’s brother had to go into the _maquis_, into the bush on the
+wild mountain-side, to dodge the gendarmes for the insignificant
+remainder of his life, and Dominic had charge of his nephew with a
+mission to make a man of him.
+
+No more unpromising undertaking could be imagined. The very material for
+the task seemed wanting. The Cervonis, if not handsome men, were good
+sturdy flesh and blood. But this extraordinarily lean and livid youth
+seemed to have no more blood in him than a snail.
+
+“Some cursed witch must have stolen my brother’s child from the cradle
+and put that spawn of a starved devil in its place,” Dominic would say to
+me. “Look at him! Just look at him!”
+
+To look at Cesar was not pleasant. His parchment skin, showing dead
+white on his cranium through the thin wisps of dirty brown hair, seemed
+to be glued directly and tightly upon his big bones, Without being in any
+way deformed, he was the nearest approach which I have ever seen or could
+imagine to what is commonly understood by the word “monster.” That the
+source of the effect produced was really moral I have no doubt. An
+utterly, hopelessly depraved nature was expressed in physical terms, that
+taken each separately had nothing positively startling. You imagined him
+clammily cold to the touch, like a snake. The slightest reproof, the
+most mild and justifiable remonstrance, would be met by a resentful glare
+and an evil shrinking of his thin dry upper lip, a snarl of hate to which
+he generally added the agreeable sound of grinding teeth.
+
+It was for this venomous performance rather than for his lies, impudence,
+and laziness that his uncle used to knock him down. It must not be
+imagined that it was anything in the nature of a brutal assault.
+Dominic’s brawny arm would be seen describing deliberately an ample
+horizontal gesture, a dignified sweep, and Cesar would go over suddenly
+like a ninepin—which was funny to see. But, once down, he would writhe
+on the deck, gnashing his teeth in impotent rage—which was pretty
+horrible to behold. And it also happened more than once that he would
+disappear completely—which was startling to observe. This is the exact
+truth. Before some of these majestic cuffs Cesar would go down and
+vanish. He would vanish heels overhead into open hatchways, into
+scuttles, behind up-ended casks, according to the place where he happened
+to come into contact with his uncle’s mighty arm.
+
+Once—it was in the old harbour, just before the _Tremolino’s_ last
+voyage—he vanished thus overboard to my infinite consternation. Dominic
+and I had been talking business together aft, and Cesar had sneaked up
+behind us to listen, for, amongst his other perfections, he was a
+consummate eavesdropper and spy. At the sound of the heavy plop
+alongside horror held me rooted to the spot; but Dominic stepped quietly
+to the rail and leaned over, waiting for his nephew’s miserable head to
+bob up for the first time.
+
+“Ohé, Cesar!” he yelled contemptuously to the spluttering wretch. “Catch
+hold of that mooring hawser—_charogne_!”
+
+He approached me to resume the interrupted conversation.
+
+“What about Cesar?” I asked anxiously.
+
+“Canallia! Let him hang there,” was his answer. And he went on talking
+over the business in hand calmly, while I tried vainly to dismiss from my
+mind the picture of Cesar steeped to the chin in the water of the old
+harbour, a decoction of centuries of marine refuse. I tried to dismiss
+it, because the mere notion of that liquid made me feel very sick.
+Presently Dominic, hailing an idle boatman, directed him to go and fish
+his nephew out; and by-and-by Cesar appeared walking on board from the
+quay, shivering, streaming with filthy water, with bits of rotten straws
+in his hair and a piece of dirty orange-peel stranded on his shoulder.
+His teeth chattered; his yellow eyes squinted balefully at us as he
+passed forward. I thought it my duty to remonstrate.
+
+“Why are you always knocking him about, Dominic?” I asked. Indeed, I
+felt convinced it was no earthly good—a sheer waste of muscular force.
+
+“I must try to make a man of him,” Dominic answered hopelessly.
+
+I restrained the obvious retort that in this way he ran the risk of
+making, in the words of the immortal Mr. Mantalini, “a demnition damp,
+unpleasant corpse of him.”
+
+“He wants to be a locksmith!” burst out Cervoni. “To learn how to pick
+locks, I suppose,” he added with sardonic bitterness.
+
+“Why not let him be a locksmith?” I ventured.
+
+“Who would teach him?” he cried. “Where could I leave him?” he asked,
+with a drop in his voice; and I had my first glimpse of genuine despair.
+“He steals, you know, alas! _Par ta Madonne_! I believe he would put
+poison in your food and mine—the viper!”
+
+He raised his face and both his clenched fists slowly to heaven.
+However, Cesar never dropped poison into our cups. One cannot be sure,
+but I fancy he went to work in another way.
+
+This voyage, of which the details need not be given, we had to range far
+afield for sufficient reasons. Coming up from the South to end it with
+the important and really dangerous part of the scheme in hand, we found
+it necessary to look into Barcelona for certain definite information.
+This appears like running one’s head into the very jaws of the lion, but
+in reality it was not so. We had one or two high, influential friends
+there, and many others humble but valuable because bought for good hard
+cash. We were in no danger of being molested; indeed, the important
+information reached us promptly by the hands of a Custom-house officer,
+who came on board full of showy zeal to poke an iron rod into the layer
+of oranges which made the visible part of our cargo in the hatchway.
+
+I forgot to mention before that the _Tremolino_ was officially known as a
+fruit and cork-wood trader. The zealous officer managed to slip a useful
+piece of paper into Dominic’s hand as he went ashore, and a few hours
+afterwards, being off duty, he returned on board again athirst for drinks
+and gratitude. He got both as a matter of course. While he sat sipping
+his liqueur in the tiny cabin, Dominic plied him with questions as to the
+whereabouts of the guardacostas. The preventive service afloat was
+really the one for us to reckon with, and it was material for our success
+and safety to know the exact position of the patrol craft in the
+neighbourhood. The news could not have been more favourable. The
+officer mentioned a small place on the coast some twelve miles off,
+where, unsuspicious and unready, she was lying at anchor, with her sails
+unbent, painting yards and scraping spars. Then he left us after the
+usual compliments, smirking reassurringly over his shoulder.
+
+I had kept below pretty close all day from excess of prudence. The stake
+played on that trip was big.
+
+“We are ready to go at once, but for Cesar, who has been missing ever
+since breakfast,” announced Dominic to me in his slow, grim way.
+
+Where the fellow had gone, and why, we could not imagine. The usual
+surmises in the case of a missing seaman did not apply to Cesar’s
+absence. He was too odious for love, friendship, gambling, or even
+casual intercourse. But once or twice he had wandered away like this
+before.
+
+Dominic went ashore to look for him, but returned at the end of two hours
+alone and very angry, as I could see by the token of the invisible smile
+under his moustache being intensified. We wondered what had become of
+the wretch, and made a hurried investigation amongst our portable
+property. He had stolen nothing.
+
+“He will be back before long,” I said confidently.
+
+Ten minutes afterwards one of the men on deck called out loudly:
+
+“I can see him coming.”
+
+Cesar had only his shirt and trousers on. He had sold his coat,
+apparently for pocket-money.
+
+“You knave!” was all Dominic said, with a terrible softness of voice. He
+restrained his choler for a time. “Where have you been, vagabond?” he
+asked menacingly.
+
+Nothing would induce Cesar to answer that question. It was as if he even
+disdained to lie. He faced us, drawing back his lips and gnashing his
+teeth, and did not shrink an inch before the sweep of Dominic’s arm. He
+went down as if shot, of course. But this time I noticed that, when
+picking himself up, he remained longer than usual on all fours, baring
+his big teeth over his shoulder and glaring upwards at his uncle with a
+new sort of hate in his round, yellow eyes. That permanent sentiment
+seemed pointed at that moment by especial malice and curiosity. I became
+quite interested. If he ever manages to put poison in the dishes, I
+thought to myself, this is how he will look at us as we sit at our meal.
+But I did not, of course, believe for a moment that he would ever put
+poison in our food. He ate the same things himself. Moreover, he had no
+poison. And I could not imagine a human being so blinded by cupidity as
+to sell poison to such an atrocious creature.
+
+
+
+
+XLIV.
+
+
+We slipped out to sea quietly at dusk, and all through the night
+everything went well. The breeze was gusty; a southerly blow was making
+up. It was fair wind for our course. Now and then Dominic slowly and
+rhythmically struck his hands together a few times, as if applauding the
+performance of the _Tremolino_. The balancelle hummed and quivered as
+she flew along, dancing lightly under our feet.
+
+At daybreak I pointed out to Dominic, amongst the several sail in view
+running before the gathering storm, one particular vessel. The press of
+canvas she carried made her loom up high, end-on, like a gray column
+standing motionless directly in our wake.
+
+“Look at this fellow, Dominic,” I said. “He seems to be in a hurry.”
+
+The Padrone made no remark, but, wrapping his black cloak close about
+him, stood up to look. His weather-tanned face, framed in the hood, had
+an aspect of authority and challenging force, with the deep-set eyes
+gazing far away fixedly, without a wink, like the intent, merciless,
+steady eyes of a sea-bird.
+
+“_Chi va piano va sano_,” he remarked at last, with a derisive glance
+over the side, in ironic allusion to our own tremendous speed.
+
+The _Tremolino_ was doing her best, and seemed to hardly touch the great
+burst of foam over which she darted. I crouched down again to get some
+shelter from the low bulwark. After more than half an hour of swaying
+immobility expressing a concentrated, breathless watchfulness, Dominic
+sank on the deck by my side. Within the monkish cowl his eyes gleamed
+with a fierce expression which surprised me. All he said was:
+
+“He has come out here to wash the new paint off his yards, I suppose.”
+
+“What?” I shouted, getting up on my knees. “Is she the guardacosta?”
+
+The perpetual suggestion of a smile under Dominic’s piratical moustaches
+seemed to become more accentuated—quite real, grim, actually almost
+visible through the wet and uncurled hair. Judging by that symptom, he
+must have been in a towering rage. But I could also see that he was
+puzzled, and that discovery affected me disagreeably. Dominic puzzled!
+For a long time, leaning against the bulwark, I gazed over the stern at
+the gray column that seemed to stand swaying slightly in our wake always
+at the same distance.
+
+Meanwhile Dominic, black and cowled, sat cross-legged on the deck, with
+his back to the wind, recalling vaguely an Arab chief in his burnuss
+sitting on the sand. Above his motionless figure the little cord and
+tassel on the stiff point of the hood swung about inanely in the gale.
+At last I gave up facing the wind and rain, and crouched down by his
+side. I was satisfied that the sail was a patrol craft. Her presence
+was not a thing to talk about, but soon, between two clouds charged with
+hail-showers, a burst of sunshine fell upon her sails, and our men
+discovered her character for themselves. From that moment I noticed that
+they seemed to take no heed of each other or of anything else. They
+could spare no eyes and no thought but for the slight column-shape astern
+of us. Its swaying had become perceptible. For a moment she remained
+dazzlingly white, then faded away slowly to nothing in a squall, only to
+reappear again, nearly black, resembling a post stuck upright against the
+slaty background of solid cloud. Since first noticed she had not gained
+on us a foot.
+
+“She will never catch the _Tremolino_,” I said exultingly.
+
+Dominic did not look at me. He remarked absently, but justly, that the
+heavy weather was in our pursuer’s favour. She was three times our size.
+What we had to do was to keep our distance till dark, which we could
+manage easily, and then haul off to seaward and consider the situation.
+But his thoughts seemed to stumble in the darkness of some not-solved
+enigma, and soon he fell silent. We ran steadily, wing-and-wing. Cape
+San Sebastian nearly ahead seemed to recede from us in the squalls of
+rain, and come out again to meet our rush, every time more distinct
+between the showers.
+
+For my part I was by no means certain that this _gabelou_ (as our men
+alluded to her opprobriously) was after us at all. There were nautical
+difficulties in such a view which made me express the sanguine opinion
+that she was in all innocence simply changing her station. At this
+Dominic condescended to turn his head.
+
+“I tell you she is in chase,” he affirmed moodily, after one short glance
+astern.
+
+I never doubted his opinion. But with all the ardour of a neophyte and
+the pride of an apt learner I was at that time a great nautical casuist.
+
+“What I can’t understand,” I insisted subtly, “is how on earth, with this
+wind, she has managed to be just where she was when we first made her
+out. It is clear that she could not, and did not, gain twelve miles on
+us during the night. And there are other impossibilities. . . .”
+
+Dominic had been sitting motionless, like an inanimate black cone posed
+on the stern deck, near the rudder-head, with a small tassel fluttering
+on its sharp point, and for a time he preserved the immobility of his
+meditation. Then, bending over with a short laugh, he gave my ear the
+bitter fruit of it. He understood everything now perfectly. She was
+where we had seen her first, not because she had caught us up, but
+because we had passed her during the night while she was already waiting
+for us, hove-to, most likely, on our very track.
+
+“Do you understand—already?” Dominic muttered in a fierce undertone.
+“Already! You know we left a good eight hours before we were expected to
+leave, otherwise she would have been in time to lie in wait for us on the
+other side of the Cape, and”—he snapped his teeth like a wolf close to my
+face—“and she would have had us like—that.”
+
+I saw it all plainly enough now. They had eyes in their heads and all
+their wits about them in that craft. We had passed them in the dark as
+they jogged on easily towards their ambush with the idea that we were yet
+far behind. At daylight, however, sighting a balancelle ahead under a
+press of canvas, they had made sail in chase. But if that was so, then—
+
+Dominic seized my arm.
+
+“Yes, yes! She came out on an information—do you see, it?—on
+information. . . . We have been sold—betrayed. Why? How? What for? We
+always paid them all so well on shore. . . . No! But it is my head that
+is going to burst.”
+
+He seemed to choke, tugged at the throat button of the cloak, jumped up
+open-mouthed as if to hurl curses and denunciation, but instantly
+mastered himself, and, wrapping up the cloak closer about him, sat down
+on the deck again as quiet as ever.
+
+“Yes, it must be the work of some scoundrel ashore,” I observed.
+
+He pulled the edge of the hood well forward over his brow before he
+muttered:
+
+“A scoundrel. . . . Yes. . . . It’s evident.”
+
+“Well,” I said, “they can’t get us, that’s clear.”
+
+“No,” he assented quietly, “they cannot.”
+
+We shaved the Cape very close to avoid an adverse current. On the other
+side, by the effect of the land, the wind failed us so completely for a
+moment that the _Tremolino’s_ two great lofty sails hung idle to the
+masts in the thundering uproar of the seas breaking upon the shore we had
+left behind. And when the returning gust filled them again, we saw with
+amazement half of the new mainsail, which we thought fit to drive the
+boat under before giving way, absolutely fly out of the bolt-ropes. We
+lowered the yard at once, and saved it all, but it was no longer a sail;
+it was only a heap of soaked strips of canvas cumbering the deck and
+weighting the craft. Dominic gave the order to throw the whole lot
+overboard.
+
+I would have had the yard thrown overboard, too, he said, leading me aft
+again, “if it had not been for the trouble. Let no sign escape you,” he
+continued, lowering his voice, “but I am going to tell you something
+terrible. Listen: I have observed that the roping stitches on that sail
+have been cut! You hear? Cut with a knife in many places. And yet it
+stood all that time. Not enough cut. That flap did it at last. What
+matters it? But look! there’s treachery seated on this very deck. By
+the horns of the devil! seated here at our very backs. Do not turn,
+signorine.”
+
+We were facing aft then.
+
+“What’s to be done?” I asked, appalled.
+
+“Nothing. Silence! Be a man, signorine.”
+
+“What else?” I said.
+
+To show I could be a man, I resolved to utter no sound as long as Dominic
+himself had the force to keep his lips closed. Nothing but silence
+becomes certain situations. Moreover, the experience of treachery seemed
+to spread a hopeless drowsiness over my thoughts and senses. For an hour
+or more we watched our pursuer surging out nearer and nearer from amongst
+the squalls that sometimes hid her altogether. But even when not seen,
+we felt her there like a knife at our throats. She gained on us
+frightfully. And the _Tremolino_, in a fierce breeze and in much
+smoother water, swung on easily under her one sail, with something
+appallingly careless in the joyous freedom of her motion. Another
+half-hour went by. I could not stand it any longer.
+
+“They will get the poor barky,” I stammered out suddenly, almost on the
+verge of tears.
+
+Dominic stirred no more than a carving. A sense of catastrophic
+loneliness overcame my inexperienced soul. The vision of my companions
+passed before me. The whole Royalist gang was in Monte Carlo now, I
+reckoned. And they appeared to me clear-cut and very small, with
+affected voices and stiff gestures, like a procession of rigid
+marionettes upon a toy stage. I gave a start. What was this? A
+mysterious, remorseless whisper came from within the motionless black
+hood at my side.
+
+“_Il faul la tuer_.”
+
+I heard it very well.
+
+“What do you say, Dominic?” I asked, moving nothing but my lips.
+
+And the whisper within the hood repeated mysteriously, “She must be
+killed.”
+
+My heart began to beat violently.
+
+“That’s it,” I faltered out. “But how?”
+
+“You love her well?”
+
+“I do.”
+
+“Then you must find the heart for that work too. You must steer her
+yourself, and I shall see to it that she dies quickly, without leaving as
+much as a chip behind.”
+
+“Can you?” I murmured, fascinated by the black hood turned immovably over
+the stern, as if in unlawful communion with that old sea of magicians,
+slave-dealers, exiles and warriors, the sea of legends and terrors, where
+the mariners of remote antiquity used to hear the restless shade of an
+old wanderer weep aloud in the dark.
+
+“I know a rock,” whispered the initiated voice within the hood secretly.
+“But—caution! It must be done before our men perceive what we are about.
+Whom can we trust now? A knife drawn across the fore halyards would
+bring the foresail down, and put an end to our liberty in twenty minutes.
+And the best of our men may be afraid of drowning. There is our little
+boat, but in an affair like this no one can be sure of being saved.”
+
+The voice ceased. We had started from Barcelona with our dinghy in tow;
+afterwards it was too risky to try to get her in, so we let her take her
+chance of the seas at the end of a comfortable scope of rope. Many times
+she had seemed to us completely overwhelmed, but soon we would see her
+bob up again on a wave, apparently as buoyant and whole as ever.
+
+“I understand,” I said softly. “Very well, Dominic. When?”
+
+“Not yet. We must get a little more in first,” answered the voice from
+the hood in a ghostly murmur.
+
+
+
+
+XLV.
+
+
+It was settled. I had now the courage to turn about. Our men crouched
+about the decks here and there with anxious, crestfallen faces, all
+turned one way to watch the chaser. For the first time that morning I
+perceived Cesar stretched out full length on the deck near the foremast
+and wondered where he had been skulking till then. But he might in truth
+have been at my elbow all the time for all I knew. We had been too
+absorbed in watching our fate to pay attention to each other. Nobody had
+eaten anything that morning, but the men had been coming constantly to
+drink at the water-butt.
+
+I ran down to the cabin. I had there, put away in a locker, ten thousand
+francs in gold of whose presence on board, so far as I was aware, not a
+soul, except Dominic had the slightest inkling. When I emerged on deck
+again Dominic had turned about and was peering from under his cowl at the
+coast. Cape Creux closed the view ahead. To the left a wide bay, its
+waters torn and swept by fierce squalls, seemed full of smoke. Astern
+the sky had a menacing look.
+
+Directly he saw me, Dominic, in a placid tone, wanted to know what was
+the matter. I came close to him and, looking as unconcerned as I could,
+told him in an undertone that I had found the locker broken open and the
+money-belt gone. Last evening it was still there.
+
+“What did you want to do with it?” he asked me, trembling violently.
+
+“Put it round my waist, of course,” I answered, amazed to hear his teeth
+chattering.
+
+“Cursed gold!” he muttered. “The weight of the money might have cost you
+your life, perhaps.” He shuddered. “There is no time to talk about that
+now.”
+
+“I am ready.”
+
+“Not yet. I am waiting for that squall to come over,” he muttered. And
+a few leaden minutes passed.
+
+The squall came over at last. Our pursuer, overtaken by a sort of murky
+whirlwind, disappeared from our sight. The _Tremolino_ quivered and
+bounded forward. The land ahead vanished, too, and we seemed to be left
+alone in a world of water and wind.
+
+“_Prenez la barre_, _monsieur_,” Dominic broke the silence suddenly in an
+austere voice. “Take hold of the tiller.” He bent his hood to my ear.
+“The balancelle is yours. Your own hands must deal the blow. I—I have
+yet another piece of work to do.” He spoke up loudly to the man who
+steered. “Let the signorino take the tiller, and you with the others
+stand by to haul the boat alongside quickly at the word.”
+
+The man obeyed, surprised, but silent. The others stirred, and pricked
+up their ears at this. I heard their murmurs. “What now? Are we going
+to run in somewhere and take to our heels? The Padrone knows what he is
+doing.”
+
+Dominic went forward. He paused to look down at Cesar, who, as I have
+said before, was lying full length face down by the foremast, then
+stepped over him, and dived out of my sight under the foresail. I saw
+nothing ahead. It was impossible for me to see anything except the
+foresail open and still, like a great shadowy wing. But Dominic had his
+bearings. His voice came to me from forward, in a just audible cry:
+
+“Now, signorino!”
+
+I bore on the tiller, as instructed before. Again I heard him faintly,
+and then I had only to hold her straight. No ship ran so joyously to her
+death before. She rose and fell, as if floating in space, and darted
+forward, whizzing like an arrow. Dominic, stooping under the foot of the
+foresail, reappeared, and stood steadying himself against the mast, with
+a raised forefinger in an attitude of expectant attention. A second
+before the shock his arm fell down by his side. At that I set my teeth.
+And then—
+
+Talk of splintered planks and smashed timbers! This shipwreck lies upon
+my soul with the dread and horror of a homicide, with the unforgettable
+remorse of having crushed a living, faithful heart at a single blow. At
+one moment the rush and the soaring swing of speed; the next a crash, and
+death, stillness—a moment of horrible immobility, with the song of the
+wind changed to a strident wail, and the heavy waters boiling up menacing
+and sluggish around the corpse. I saw in a distracting minute the
+foreyard fly fore and aft with a brutal swing, the men all in a heap,
+cursing with fear, and hauling frantically at the line of the boat. With
+a strange welcoming of the familiar I saw also Cesar amongst them, and
+recognised Dominic’s old, well-known, effective gesture, the horizontal
+sweep of his powerful arm. I recollect distinctly saying to myself,
+“Cesar must go down, of course,” and then, as I was scrambling on all
+fours, the swinging tiller I had let go caught me a crack under the ear,
+and knocked me over senseless.
+
+I don’t think I was actually unconscious for more than a few minutes, but
+when I came to myself the dinghy was driving before the wind into a
+sheltered cove, two men just keeping her straight with their oars.
+Dominic, with his arm round my shoulders, supported me in the
+stern-sheets.
+
+We landed in a familiar part of the country. Dominic took one of the
+boat’s oars with him. I suppose he was thinking of the stream we would
+have presently to cross, on which there was a miserable specimen of a
+punt, often robbed of its pole. But first of all we had to ascend the
+ridge of land at the back of the Cape. He helped me up. I was dizzy.
+My head felt very large and heavy. At the top of the ascent I clung to
+him, and we stopped to rest.
+
+To the right, below us, the wide, smoky bay was empty. Dominic had kept
+his word. There was not a chip to be seen around the black rock from
+which the _Tremolino_, with her plucky heart crushed at one blow, had
+slipped off into deep water to her eternal rest. The vastness of the
+open sea was smothered in driving mists, and in the centre of the
+thinning squall, phantom-like, under a frightful press of canvas, the
+unconscious guardacosta dashed on, still chasing to the northward. Our
+men were already descending the reverse slope to look for that punt which
+we knew from experience was not always to be found easily. I looked
+after them with dazed, misty eyes. One, two, three, four.
+
+“Dominic, where’s Cesar?” I cried.
+
+As if repulsing the very sound of the name, the Padrone made that ample,
+sweeping, knocking-down gesture. I stepped back a pace and stared at him
+fearfully. His open shirt uncovered his muscular neck and the thick hair
+on his chest. He planted the oar upright in the soft soil, and rolling
+up slowly his right sleeve, extended the bare arm before my face.
+
+“This,” he began, with an extreme deliberation, whose superhuman
+restraint vibrated with the suppressed violence of his feelings, “is the
+arm which delivered the blow. I am afraid it is your own gold that did
+the rest. I forgot all about your money.” He clasped his hands together
+in sudden distress. “I forgot, I forgot,” he repeated disconsolately.
+
+“Cesar stole the belt?” I stammered out, bewildered.
+
+“And who else? _Canallia_! He must have been spying on you for days.
+And he did the whole thing. Absent all day in Barcelona. _Traditore_!
+Sold his jacket—to hire a horse. Ha! ha! A good affair! I tell you it
+was he who set him at us. . . .”
+
+Dominic pointed at the sea, where the guardacosta was a mere dark speck.
+His chin dropped on his breast.
+
+“. . . On information,” he murmured, in a gloomy voice. “A Cervoni! Oh!
+my poor brother! . . .”
+
+“And you drowned him,” I said feebly.
+
+“I struck once, and the wretch went down like a stone—with the gold.
+Yes. But he had time to read in my eyes that nothing could save him
+while I was alive. And had I not the right—I, Dominic Cervoni, Padrone,
+who brought him aboard your fellucca—my nephew, a traitor?”
+
+He pulled the oar out of the ground and helped me carefully down the
+slope. All the time he never once looked me in the face. He punted us
+over, then shouldered the oar again and waited till our men were at some
+distance before he offered me his arm. After we had gone a little way,
+the fishing hamlet we were making for came into view. Dominic stopped.
+
+“Do you think you can make your way as far as the houses by yourself?” he
+asked me quietly.
+
+“Yes, I think so. But why? Where are you going, Dominic?”
+
+“Anywhere. What a question! Signorino, you are but little more than a
+boy to ask such a question of a man having this tale in his family.
+_Ah_! _Traditore_! What made me ever own that spawn of a hungry devil
+for our own blood! Thief, cheat, coward, liar—other men can deal with
+that. But I was his uncle, and so . . . I wish he had poisoned
+me—_charogne_! But this: that I, a confidential man and a Corsican,
+should have to ask your pardon for bringing on board your vessel, of
+which I was Padrone, a Cervoni, who has betrayed you—a traitor!—that is
+too much. It is too much. Well, I beg your pardon; and you may spit in
+Dominic’s face because a traitor of our blood taints us all. A theft may
+be made good between men, a lie may be set right, a death avenged, but
+what can one do to atone for a treachery like this? . . . Nothing.”
+
+He turned and walked away from me along the bank of the stream,
+flourishing a vengeful arm and repeating to himself slowly, with savage
+emphasis: “_Ah_! _Canaille_! _Canaille_! _Canaille_! . . .” He left
+me there trembling with weakness and mute with awe. Unable to make a
+sound, I gazed after the strangely desolate figure of that seaman
+carrying an oar on his shoulder up a barren, rock-strewn ravine under the
+dreary leaden sky of _Tremolino’s_ last day. Thus, walking deliberately,
+with his back to the sea, Dominic vanished from my sight.
+
+With the quality of our desires, thoughts, and wonder proportioned to our
+infinite littleness, we measure even time itself by our own stature.
+Imprisoned in the house of personal illusions, thirty centuries in
+mankind’s history seem less to look back upon than thirty years of our
+own life. And Dominic Cervoni takes his place in my memory by the side
+of the legendary wanderer on the sea of marvels and terrors, by the side
+of the fatal and impious adventurer, to whom the evoked shade of the
+soothsayer predicted a journey inland with an oar on his shoulder, till
+he met men who had never set eyes on ships and oars. It seems to me I
+can see them side by side in the twilight of an arid land, the
+unfortunate possessors of the secret lore of the sea, bearing the emblem
+of their hard calling on their shoulders, surrounded by silent and
+curious men: even as I, too, having turned my back upon the sea, am
+bearing those few pages in the twilight, with the hope of finding in an
+inland valley the silent welcome of some patient listener.
+
+
+
+
+XLVI.
+
+
+“A FELLOW has now no chance of promotion unless he jumps into the muzzle
+of a gun and crawls out of the touch-hole.”
+
+He who, a hundred years ago, more or less, pronounced the above words in
+the uneasiness of his heart, thirsting for professional distinction, was
+a young naval officer. Of his life, career, achievements, and end
+nothing is preserved for the edification of his young successors in the
+fleet of to-day—nothing but this phrase, which, sailor-like in the
+simplicity of personal sentiment and strength of graphic expression,
+embodies the spirit of the epoch. This obscure but vigorous testimony
+has its price, its significance, and its lesson. It comes to us from a
+worthy ancestor. We do not know whether he lived long enough for a
+chance of that promotion whose way was so arduous. He belongs to the
+great array of the unknown—who are great, indeed, by the sum total of the
+devoted effort put out, and the colossal scale of success attained by
+their insatiable and steadfast ambition. We do not know his name; we
+only know of him what is material for us to know—that he was never
+backward on occasions of desperate service. We have this on the
+authority of a distinguished seaman of Nelson’s time. Departing this
+life as Admiral of the Fleet on the eve of the Crimean War, Sir Thomas
+Byam Martin has recorded for us amongst his all too short
+autobiographical notes these few characteristic words uttered by one
+young man of the many who must have felt that particular inconvenience of
+a heroic age.
+
+The distinguished Admiral had lived through it himself, and was a good
+judge of what was expected in those days from men and ships. A brilliant
+frigate captain, a man of sound judgment, of dashing bravery and of
+serene mind, scrupulously concerned for the welfare and honour of the
+navy, he missed a larger fame only by the chances of the service. We may
+well quote on this day the words written of Nelson, in the decline of a
+well-spent life, by Sir T. B. Martin, who died just fifty years ago on
+the very anniversary of Trafalgar.
+
+“Nelson’s nobleness of mind was a prominent and beautiful part of his
+character. His foibles—faults if you like—will never be dwelt upon in
+any memorandum of mine,” he declares, and goes on—“he whose splendid and
+matchless achievements will be remembered with admiration while there is
+gratitude in the hearts of Britons, or while a ship floats upon the
+ocean; he whose example on the breaking out of the war gave so chivalrous
+an impulse to the younger men of the service that all rushed into rivalry
+of daring which disdained every warning of prudence, and led to acts of
+heroic enterprise which tended greatly to exalt the glory of our nation.”
+
+These are his words, and they are true. The dashing young frigate
+captain, the man who in middle age was nothing loth to give chase
+single-handed in his seventy-four to a whole fleet, the man of enterprise
+and consummate judgment, the old Admiral of the Fleet, the good and
+trusted servant of his country under two kings and a queen, had felt
+correctly Nelson’s influence, and expressed himself with precision out of
+the fulness of his seaman’s heart.
+
+“Exalted,” he wrote, not “augmented.” And therein his feeling and his
+pen captured the very truth. Other men there were ready and able to add
+to the treasure of victories the British navy has given to the nation.
+It was the lot of Lord Nelson to exalt all this glory. Exalt! the word
+seems to be created for the man.
+
+
+
+
+XLVII.
+
+
+The British navy may well have ceased to count its victories. It is rich
+beyond the wildest dreams of success and fame. It may well, rather, on a
+culminating day of its history, cast about for the memory of some
+reverses to appease the jealous fates which attend the prosperity and
+triumphs of a nation. It holds, indeed, the heaviest inheritance that
+has ever been entrusted to the courage and fidelity of armed men.
+
+It is too great for mere pride. It should make the seamen of to-day
+humble in the secret of their hearts, and indomitable in their unspoken
+resolution. In all the records of history there has never been a time
+when a victorious fortune has been so faithful to men making war upon the
+sea. And it must be confessed that on their part they knew how to be
+faithful to their victorious fortune. They were exalted. They were
+always watching for her smile; night or day, fair weather or foul, they
+waited for her slightest sign with the offering of their stout hearts in
+their hands. And for the inspiration of this high constancy they were
+indebted to Lord Nelson alone. Whatever earthly affection he abandoned
+or grasped, the great Admiral was always, before all, beyond all, a lover
+of Fame. He loved her jealously, with an inextinguishable ardour and an
+insatiable desire—he loved her with a masterful devotion and an infinite
+trustfulness. In the plenitude of his passion he was an exacting lover.
+And she never betrayed the greatness of his trust! She attended him to
+the end of his life, and he died pressing her last gift (nineteen prizes)
+to his heart. “Anchor, Hardy—anchor!” was as much the cry of an ardent
+lover as of a consummate seaman. Thus he would hug to his breast the
+last gift of Fame.
+
+It was this ardour which made him great. He was a flaming example to the
+wooers of glorious fortune. There have been great officers before—Lord
+Hood, for instance, whom he himself regarded as the greatest sea officer
+England ever had. A long succession of great commanders opened the sea
+to the vast range of Nelson’s genius. His time had come; and, after the
+great sea officers, the great naval tradition passed into the keeping of
+a great man. Not the least glory of the navy is that it understood
+Nelson. Lord Hood trusted him. Admiral Keith told him: “We can’t spare
+you either as Captain or Admiral.” Earl St. Vincent put into his hands,
+untrammelled by orders, a division of his fleet, and Sir Hyde Parker gave
+him two more ships at Copenhagen than he had asked for. So much for the
+chiefs; the rest of the navy surrendered to him their devoted affection,
+trust, and admiration. In return he gave them no less than his own
+exalted soul. He breathed into them his own ardour and his own ambition.
+In a few short years he revolutionized, not the strategy or tactics of
+sea-warfare, but the very conception of victory itself. And this is
+genius. In that alone, through the fidelity of his fortune and the power
+of his inspiration, he stands unique amongst the leaders of fleets and
+sailors. He brought heroism into the line of duty. Verily he is a
+terrible ancestor.
+
+And the men of his day loved him. They loved him not only as victorious
+armies have loved great commanders; they loved him with a more intimate
+feeling as one of themselves. In the words of a contemporary, he had “a
+most happy way of gaining the affectionate respect of all who had the
+felicity to serve under his command.”
+
+To be so great and to remain so accessible to the affection of one’s
+fellow-men is the mark of exceptional humanity. Lord Nelson’s greatness
+was very human. It had a moral basis; it needed to feel itself
+surrounded by the warm devotion of a band of brothers. He was vain and
+tender. The love and admiration which the navy gave him so unreservedly
+soothed the restlessness of his professional pride. He trusted them as
+much as they trusted him. He was a seaman of seamen. Sir T. B. Martin
+states that he never conversed with any officer who had served under
+Nelson “without hearing the heartiest expressions of attachment to his
+person and admiration of his frank and conciliatory manner to his
+subordinates.” And Sir Robert Stopford, who commanded one of the ships
+with which Nelson chased to the West Indies a fleet nearly double in
+number, says in a letter: “We are half-starved and otherwise
+inconvenienced by being so long out of port, but our reward is that we
+are with Nelson.”
+
+This heroic spirit of daring and endurance, in which all public and
+private differences were sunk throughout the whole fleet, is Lord
+Nelson’s great legacy, triply sealed by the victorious impress of the
+Nile, Copenhagen, and Trafalgar. This is a legacy whose value the
+changes of time cannot affect. The men and the ships he knew how to lead
+lovingly to the work of courage and the reward of glory have passed away,
+but Nelson’s uplifting touch remains in the standard of achievement he
+has set for all time. The principles of strategy may be immutable. It
+is certain they have been, and shall be again, disregarded from timidity,
+from blindness, through infirmity of purpose. The tactics of great
+captains on land and sea can be infinitely discussed. The first object
+of tactics is to close with the adversary on terms of the greatest
+possible advantage; yet no hard-and-fast rules can be drawn from
+experience, for this capital reason, amongst others—that the quality of
+the adversary is a variable element in the problem. The tactics of Lord
+Nelson have been amply discussed, with much pride and some profit. And
+yet, truly, they are already of but archaic interest. A very few years
+more and the hazardous difficulties of handling a fleet under canvas
+shall have passed beyond the conception of seamen who hold in trust for
+their country Lord Nelson’s legacy of heroic spirit. The change in the
+character of the ships is too great and too radical. It is good and
+proper to study the acts of great men with thoughtful reverence, but
+already the precise intention of Lord Nelson’s famous memorandum seems to
+lie under that veil which Time throws over the clearest conceptions of
+every great art. It must not be forgotten that this was the first time
+when Nelson, commanding in chief, had his opponents under way—the first
+time and the last. Had he lived, had there been other fleets left to
+oppose him, we would, perhaps, have learned something more of his
+greatness as a sea officer. Nothing could have been added to his
+greatness as a leader. All that can be affirmed is, that on no other day
+of his short and glorious career was Lord Nelson more splendidly true to
+his genius and to his country’s fortune.
+
+
+
+
+XLVIII.
+
+
+And yet the fact remains that, had the wind failed and the fleet lost
+steerage way, or, worse still, had it been taken aback from the eastward,
+with its leaders within short range of the enemy’s guns, nothing, it
+seems, could have saved the headmost ships from capture or destruction.
+No skill of a great sea officer would have availed in such a contingency.
+Lord Nelson was more than that, and his genius would have remained
+undiminished by defeat. But obviously tactics, which are so much at the
+mercy of irremediable accident, must seem to a modern seaman a poor
+matter of study. The Commander-in-Chief in the great fleet action that
+will take its place next to the Battle of Trafalgar in the history of the
+British navy will have no such anxiety, and will feel the weight of no
+such dependence. For a hundred years now no British fleet has engaged
+the enemy in line of battle. A hundred years is a long time, but the
+difference of modern conditions is enormous. The gulf is great. Had the
+last great fight of the English navy been that of the First of June, for
+instance, had there been no Nelson’s victories, it would have been
+wellnigh impassable. The great Admiral’s slight and passion-worn figure
+stands at the parting of the ways. He had the audacity of genius, and a
+prophetic inspiration.
+
+The modern naval man must feel that the time has come for the tactical
+practice of the great sea officers of the past to be laid by in the
+temple of august memories. The fleet tactics of the sailing days have
+been governed by two points: the deadly nature of a raking fire, and the
+dread, natural to a commander dependent upon the winds, to find at some
+crucial moment part of his fleet thrown hopelessly to leeward. These two
+points were of the very essence of sailing tactics, and these two points
+have been eliminated from the modern tactical problem by the changes of
+propulsion and armament. Lord Nelson was the first to disregard them
+with conviction and audacity sustained by an unbounded trust in the men
+he led. This conviction, this audacity and this trust stand out from
+amongst the lines of the celebrated memorandum, which is but a
+declaration of his faith in a crushing superiority of fire as the only
+means of victory and the only aim of sound tactics. Under the
+difficulties of the then existing conditions he strove for that, and for
+that alone, putting his faith into practice against every risk. And in
+that exclusive faith Lord Nelson appears to us as the first of the
+moderns.
+
+Against every risk, I have said; and the men of to-day, born and bred to
+the use of steam, can hardly realize how much of that risk was in the
+weather. Except at the Nile, where the conditions were ideal for
+engaging a fleet moored in shallow water, Lord Nelson was not lucky in
+his weather. Practically it was nothing but a quite unusual failure of
+the wind which cost him his arm during the Teneriffe expedition. On
+Trafalgar Day the weather was not so much unfavourable as extremely
+dangerous.
+
+It was one of these covered days of fitful sunshine, of light, unsteady
+winds, with a swell from the westward, and hazy in general, but with the
+land about the Cape at times distinctly visible. It has been my lot to
+look with reverence upon the very spot more than once, and for many hours
+together. All but thirty years ago, certain exceptional circumstances
+made me very familiar for a time with that bight in the Spanish coast
+which would be enclosed within a straight line drawn from Faro to
+Spartel. My well-remembered experience has convinced me that, in that
+corner of the ocean, once the wind has got to the northward of west (as
+it did on the 20th, taking the British fleet aback), appearances of
+westerly weather go for nothing, and that it is infinitely more likely to
+veer right round to the east than to shift back again. It was in those
+conditions that, at seven on the morning of the 21st, the signal for the
+fleet to bear up and steer east was made. Holding a clear recollection
+of these languid easterly sighs rippling unexpectedly against the run of
+the smooth swell, with no other warning than a ten-minutes’ calm and a
+queer darkening of the coast-line, I cannot think, without a gasp of
+professional awe, of that fateful moment. Perhaps personal experience,
+at a time of life when responsibility had a special freshness and
+importance, has induced me to exaggerate to myself the danger of the
+weather. The great Admiral and good seaman could read aright the signs
+of sea and sky, as his order to prepare to anchor at the end of the day
+sufficiently proves; but, all the same, the mere idea of these baffling
+easterly airs, coming on at any time within half an hour or so, after the
+firing of the first shot, is enough to take one’s breath away, with the
+image of the rearmost ships of both divisions falling off, unmanageable,
+broadside on to the westerly swell, and of two British Admirals in
+desperate jeopardy. To this day I cannot free myself from the impression
+that, for some forty minutes, the fate of the great battle hung upon a
+breath of wind such as I have felt stealing from behind, as it were, upon
+my cheek while engaged in looking to the westward for the signs of the
+true weather.
+
+Never more shall British seamen going into action have to trust the
+success of their valour to a breath of wind. The God of gales and
+battles favouring her arms to the last, has let the sun of England’s
+sailing-fleet and of its greatest master set in unclouded glory. And now
+the old ships and their men are gone; the new ships and the new men, many
+of them bearing the old, auspicious names, have taken up their watch on
+the stern and impartial sea, which offers no opportunities but to those
+who know how to grasp them with a ready hand and an undaunted heart.
+
+
+
+
+XLIX.
+
+
+This the navy of the Twenty Years’ War knew well how to do, and never
+better than when Lord Nelson had breathed into its soul his own passion
+of honour and fame. It was a fortunate navy. Its victories were no mere
+smashing of helpless ships and massacres of cowed men. It was spared
+that cruel favour, for which no brave heart had ever prayed. It was
+fortunate in its adversaries. I say adversaries, for on recalling such
+proud memories we should avoid the word “enemies,” whose hostile sound
+perpetuates the antagonisms and strife of nations, so irremediable
+perhaps, so fateful—and also so vain. War is one of the gifts of life;
+but, alas! no war appears so very necessary when time has laid its
+soothing hand upon the passionate misunderstandings and the passionate
+desires of great peoples. “Le temps,” as a distinguished Frenchman has
+said, “est un galant homme.” He fosters the spirit of concord and
+justice, in whose work there is as much glory to be reaped as in the
+deeds of arms.
+
+One of them disorganized by revolutionary changes, the other rusted in
+the neglect of a decayed monarchy, the two fleets opposed to us entered
+the contest with odds against them from the first. By the merit of our
+daring and our faithfulness, and the genius of a great leader, we have in
+the course of the war augmented our advantage and kept it to the last.
+But in the exulting illusion of irresistible might a long series of
+military successes brings to a nation the less obvious aspect of such a
+fortune may perchance be lost to view. The old navy in its last days
+earned a fame that no belittling malevolence dare cavil at. And this
+supreme favour they owe to their adversaries alone.
+
+Deprived by an ill-starred fortune of that self-confidence which
+strengthens the hands of an armed host, impaired in skill but not in
+courage, it may safely be said that our adversaries managed yet to make a
+better fight of it in 1797 than they did in 1793. Later still, the
+resistance offered at the Nile was all, and more than all, that could be
+demanded from seamen, who, unless blind or without understanding, must
+have seen their doom sealed from the moment that the _Goliath_, bearing
+up under the bows of the _Guerrier_, took up an inshore berth. The
+combined fleets of 1805, just come out of port, and attended by nothing
+but the disturbing memories of reverses, presented to our approach a
+determined front, on which Captain Blackwood, in a knightly spirit,
+congratulated his Admiral. By the exertions of their valour our
+adversaries have but added a greater lustre to our arms. No friend could
+have done more, for even in war, which severs for a time all the
+sentiments of human fellowship, this subtle bond of association remains
+between brave men—that the final testimony to the value of victory must
+be received at the hands of the vanquished.
+
+Those who from the heat of that battle sank together to their repose in
+the cool depths of the ocean would not understand the watchwords of our
+day, would gaze with amazed eyes at the engines of our strife. All
+passes, all changes: the animosity of peoples, the handling of fleets,
+the forms of ships; and even the sea itself seems to wear a different and
+diminished aspect from the sea of Lord Nelson’s day. In this ceaseless
+rush of shadows and shades, that, like the fantastic forms of clouds cast
+darkly upon the waters on a windy day, fly past us to fall headlong below
+the hard edge of an implacable horizon, we must turn to the national
+spirit, which, superior in its force and continuity to good and evil
+fortune, can alone give us the feeling of an enduring existence and of an
+invincible power against the fates.
+
+Like a subtle and mysterious elixir poured into the perishable clay of
+successive generations, it grows in truth, splendour, and potency with
+the march of ages. In its incorruptible flow all round the globe of the
+earth it preserves from the decay and forgetfulness of death the
+greatness of our great men, and amongst them the passionate and gentle
+greatness of Nelson, the nature of whose genius was, on the faith of a
+brave seaman and distinguished Admiral, such as to “Exalt the glory of
+our nation.”
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MIRROR OF THE SEA***
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