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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:25 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:25 -0700 |
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diff --git a/1039-h/1039-h.htm b/1039-h/1039-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d247da --- /dev/null +++ b/1039-h/1039-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,28962 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa by David Livingstone + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1039 ***</div> + <h1> + MISSIONARY TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES <br /> IN SOUTH AFRICA. + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Also called, Travels and Researches in South Africa; <br /> or, Journeys + and Researches in South Africa. <br /><br /> <br /> By David Livingstone + </h2> + <h3> + [British (Scot) Missionary and Explorer—1813-1873.] + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + [NOTE by the Project Gutenberg Contributor of this file: + + This etext was prepared by Alan. R. Light To assure a high quality text, + the original was typed in (manually) twice and electronically compared. + Italicized words or phrases are CAPITALIZED. + + David Livingstone was born in Scotland, received his medical degree from + the University of Glasgow, and was sent to South Africa by the London + Missionary Society. Circumstances led him to try to meet the material + needs as well as the spiritual needs of the people he went to, and while + promoting trade and trying to end slavery, he became the first European + to cross the continent of Africa, which story is related in this book. + Two appendixes have been added to this etext, one of which is simply + notes on the minor changes made to make this etext more readable, (old + vs. new forms of words, names, etc.); the other is a review from the + February, 1858 edition of Harper's Magazine, which is included both for + those readers who want to see a brief synopsis, and more importantly to + give an example of how Livingstone's accomplishments were seen in + his own time. The unnamed reviewer was by no means as enlightened as + Livingstone, yet he was not entirely in the dark, either. + + The casual reader, who may not be familiar with the historical period, + should note that a few things that Livingstone wrote, which might be + seen as racist by today's standards, was not considered so in his + own time. Livingstone simply uses the terms and the science of his + day—these were no doubt flawed, as is also seen elsewhere, in his + references to malaria, for example. Which all goes to show that it was + the science of the day which was flawed, and not so much Livingstone. + + I will also add that the Rev. Livingstone has a fine sense of humour, + which I hope the reader will enjoy. His description of a Makololo dance + is classic. + + Lastly, I will note that what I love most about Livingstone's + descriptions is not only that he was not polluted by the racism of his + day, but that he was not polluted by the anti-racism of our own. He + states things as he sees them, and notes that the Africans are, like all + other men, a curious mixture of good and evil. This, to me, demonstrates + his good faith better than any other description could. You see, David + Livingstone does not write about Africa as a missionary, nor as an + explorer, nor yet as a scientist, but as a man meeting fellow men. I + hope you will enjoy his writings as much as I did. + + Alan R. Light + + Monroe, N.C., 1997.] +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> Dedication. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter 1. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter 2. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter 3. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter 4. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter 5. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter 6. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter 7. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter 8. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter 9. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter 10. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter 11. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter 12. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter 13. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter 14. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter 15. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter 16. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter 17. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter 18. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter 19. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter 20. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> Chapter 21. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> Chapter 22. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> Chapter 23. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> Chapter 24. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> Chapter 25. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> Chapter 26. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> Chapter 27. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> Chapter 28. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> Chapter 29. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> Chapter 30. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> Chapter 31. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0032"> Chapter 32. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> Appendix.—Latitudes and Longitudes of + Positions. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE2"> Appendix.—Book Review in Harper's, + February, 1858. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE3"> Appendix.—Notes to Etext. </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + MISSIONARY TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA; + </h2> + <p> + Including a Sketch of Sixteen Years' Residence in the Interior of Africa, + and a Journey from the Cape of Good Hope to Loanda on the West Coast; + Thence Across the Continent, Down the River Zambesi, to the Eastern Ocean. + </p> + <p> + By David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L., Fellow of the Faculty of Physicians + and Surgeons, Glasgow; Corresponding Member of the Geographical and + Statistical Society of New York; Gold Medalist and Corresponding Member of + the Royal Geographical Societies of London and Paris F.S.A., Etc., Etc. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Dedication. + </h2> + <p> + To + </p> + <p> + SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON, + </p> + <p> + President Royal Geographical Society, F.R.S., V.P.G.S., + </p> + <p> + Corr. Inst. of France, and Member of the Academies of St. Petersburg, + </p> + <p> + Berlin, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Brussels, Etc., + </p> + <p> + This Work + </p> + <p> + is affectionately offered as a Token of Gratitude for the kind interest he + has always taken in the Author's pursuits and welfare; and to express + admiration of his eminent scientific attainments, nowhere more strongly + evidenced than by the striking hypothesis respecting the physical + conformation of the African continent, promulgated in his Presidential + Address to the Royal Geographic Society in 1852, and verified three years + afterward by the Author of these Travels. + </p> + <p> + DAVID LIVINGSTONE. London, Oct., 1857. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Preface. + </h2> + <p> + When honored with a special meeting of welcome by the Royal Geographical + Society a few days after my arrival in London in December last, Sir + Roderick Murchison, the President, invited me to give the world a + narrative of my travels; and at a similar meeting of the Directors of the + London Missionary Society I publicly stated my intention of sending a book + to the press, instead of making many of those public appearances which + were urged upon me. The preparation of this narrative* has taken much + longer time than, from my inexperience in authorship, I had anticipated. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Several attempts having been made to impose upon the public, + as mine, spurious narratives of my travels, I beg to tender my + thanks to the editors of the 'Times' and of the 'Athenaeum' + for aiding to expose them, and to the booksellers of London + for refusing to SUBSCRIBE for any copies. +</pre> + <p> + Greater smoothness of diction and a saving of time might have been secured + by the employment of a person accustomed to compilation; but my journals + having been kept for my own private purposes, no one else could have made + use of them, or have entered with intelligence into the circumstances in + which I was placed in Africa, far from any European companion. Those who + have never carried a book through the press can form no idea of the amount + of toil it involves. The process has increased my respect for authors and + authoresses a thousand-fold. + </p> + <p> + I can not refrain from referring, with sentiments of admiration and + gratitude, to my friend Thomas Maclear, Esq., the accomplished Astronomer + Royal at the Cape. I shall never cease to remember his instructions and + help with real gratitude. The intercourse I had the privilege to enjoy at + the Observatory enabled me to form an idea of the almost infinite variety + of acquirements necessary to form a true and great astronomer, and I was + led to the conviction that it will be long before the world becomes + overstocked with accomplished members of that profession. Let them be + always honored according to their deserts; and long may Maclear, Herschel, + Airy, and others live to make known the wonders and glory of creation, and + to aid in rendering the pathway of the world safe to mariners, and the + dark places of the earth open to Christians! + </p> + <p> + I beg to offer my hearty thanks to my friend Sir Roderick Murchison, and + also to Dr. Norton Shaw, the secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, + for aiding my researches by every means in their power. + </p> + <p> + His faithful majesty Don Pedro V., having kindly sent out orders to + support my late companions until my return, relieved my mind of anxiety on + their account. But for this act of liberality, I should certainly have + been compelled to leave England in May last; and it has afforded me the + pleasure of traveling over, in imagination, every scene again, and + recalling the feelings which actuated me at the time. I have much pleasure + in acknowledging my deep obligations to the hospitality and kindness of + the Portuguese on many occasions. + </p> + <p> + I have not entered into the early labors, trials, and successes of the + missionaries who preceded me in the Bechuana country, because that has + been done by the much abler pen of my father-in-law, Rev. Robert Moffat, + of Kuruman, who has been an energetic and devoted actor in the scene for + upward of forty years. A slight sketch only is given of my own attempts, + and the chief part of the book is taken up with a detail of the efforts + made to open up a new field north of the Bechuana country to the + sympathies of Christendom. The prospects there disclosed are fairer than I + anticipated, and the capabilities of the new region lead me to hope that + by the production of the raw materials of our manufactures, African and + English interests will become more closely linked than heretofore, that + both countries will be eventually benefited, and that the cause of freedom + throughout the world will in some measure be promoted. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Hooker, of Kew, has had the kindness to name and classify for me, as + far as possible, some of the new botanical specimens which I brought over; + Dr. Andrew Smith (himself an African traveler) has aided me in the + zoology; and Captain Need has laid open for my use his portfolio of + African sketches, for all which acts of liberality my thanks are + deservedly due, as well as to my brother, who has rendered me willing aid + as an amanuensis. + </p> + <p> + Although I can not profess to be a draughtsman, I brought home with me a + few rough diagram-sketches, from one of which the view of the Falls of the + Zambesi has been prepared by a more experienced artist. + </p> + <p> + October, 1857. + </p> + <h2> + Chapter Detail + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Introduction. Personal Sketch—Highland Ancestors—Family + Traditions—Grandfather removes to the Lowlands—Parents— + Early Labors and Efforts—Evening School—Love of Reading— + Religious Impressions—Medical Education—Youthful Travels— + Geology—Mental Discipline—Study in Glasgow—London + Missionary Society—Native Village—Medical Diploma— + Theological Studies—Departure for Africa—No Claim to + Literary Accomplishments. + + Chapter 1. The Bakwain Country—Study of the Language—Native + Ideas regarding Comets—Mabotsa Station—A Lion Encounter— + Virus of the Teeth of Lions—Names of the Bechuana Tribes— + Sechele—His Ancestors—Obtains the Chieftainship—His + Marriage and Government—The Kotla—First public Religious + Services—Sechele's Questions—He Learns to Read—Novel mode + for Converting his Tribe—Surprise at their Indifference— + Polygamy—Baptism of Sechele—Opposition of the Natives— + Purchase Land at Chonuane—Relations with the People—Their + Intelligence—Prolonged Drought—Consequent Trials—Rain- + medicine—God's Word blamed—Native Reasoning—Rain-maker— + Dispute between Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor—The Hunting + Hopo—Salt or animal Food a necessary of Life—Duties of a + Missionary. + + Chapter 2. The Boers—Their Treatment of the Natives—Seizure + of native Children for Slaves—English Traders—Alarm of the + Boers—Native Espionage—The Tale of the Cannon—The Boers + threaten Sechele—In violation of Treaty, they stop English + Traders and expel Missionaries—They attack the Bakwains— + Their Mode of Fighting—The Natives killed and the School- + children carried into Slavery—Destruction of English + Property—African Housebuilding and Housekeeping—Mode of + Spending the Day—Scarcity of Food—Locusts—Edible Frogs— + Scavenger Beetle—Continued Hostility of the Boers—The + Journey north—Preparations—Fellow-travelers—The Kalahari + Desert—Vegetation—Watermelons—The Inhabitants—The Bushmen- + -Their nomad Mode of Life—Appearance—The Bakalahari—Their + Love for Agriculture and for domestic Animals—Timid + Character—Mode of obtaining Water—Female Water-suckers—The + Desert—Water hidden. + + Chapter 3. Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849— + Companions—Our Route—Abundance of Grass—Serotli, a Fountain + in the Desert—Mode of digging Wells—The Eland—Animals of + the Desert—The Hyaena—The Chief Sekomi—Dangers—The + wandering Guide—Cross Purposes—Slow Progress—Want of Water— + Capture of a Bushwoman—The Salt-pan at Nchokotsa—The + Mirage—Reach the River Zouga—The Quakers of Africa— + Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849—Its Extent—Small + Depth of Water—Position as the Reservoir of a great River + System—The Bamangwato and their Chief—Desire to visit + Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo—Refusal of Lechulatebe + to furnish us with Guides—Resolve to return to the Cape—The + Banks of the Zouga—Pitfalls—Trees of the District— + Elephants—New Species of Antelope—Fish in the Zouga. + + Chapter 4. Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane— + Reach the Zouga—The Tsetse—A Party of Englishmen—Death of + Mr. Rider—Obtain Guides—Children fall sick with Fever— + Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituane—Mr. Oswell's + Elephant-hunting—Return to Kolobeng—Make a third Start + thence—Reach Nchokotsa—Salt-pans—"Links", or Springs— + Bushmen—Our Guide Shobo—The Banajoa—An ugly Chief—The + Tsetse—Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but harmless to wild + Animals and Man—Operation of the Poison—Losses caused by it— + The Makololo—Our Meeting with Sebituane—Sketch of his + Career—His Courage and Conquests—Manoeuvres of the Batoka— + He outwits them—His Wars with the Matebele—Predictions of a + native Prophet—Successes of the Makololo—Renewed Attacks of + the Matebele—The Island of Loyelo—Defeat of the Matebele— + Sebituane's Policy—His Kindness to Strangers and to the Poor— + His sudden Illness and Death—Succeeded by his Daughter—Her + Friendliness to us—Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi + flowing in the Centre of the Continent—Its Size—The Mambari— + The Slave-trade—Determine to send Family to England—Return + to the Cape in April, 1852—Safe Transit through the Caffre + Country during Hostilities—Need of a "Special Correspondent" + —Kindness of the London Missionary Society—Assistance + afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape. + + Chapter 5. Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest + Journey from Cape Town—Companions—Wagon-traveling—Physical + Divisions of Africa—The Eastern, Central, and Western Zones— + The Kalahari Desert—Its Vegetation—Increasing Value of the + Interior for Colonization—Our Route—Dutch Boers—Their + Habits—Sterile Appearance of the District—Failure of Grass— + Succeeded by other Plants—Vines—Animals—The Boers as + Farmers—Migration of Springbucks—Wariness of Animals—The + Orange River—Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas—The + Griquas—The Chief Waterboer—His wise and energetic + Government—His Fidelity—Ill-considered Measures of the + Colonial Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder— + Success of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas— + Manifest Improvement of the native Character—Dress of the + Natives—A full-dress Costume—A Native's Description of the + Natives—Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas— + Their Unwillingness to learn, and Readiness to criticise. + + Chapter 6. Kuruman—Its fine Fountain—Vegetation of the + District—Remains of ancient Forests—Vegetable Poison—The + Bible translated by Mr. Moffat—Capabilities of the Language— + Christianity among the Natives—The Missionaries should extend + their Labors more beyond the Cape Colony—Model Christians— + Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains—Letter from + Sechele—Details of the Attack—Numbers of School-children + carried away into Slavery—Destruction of House and Property + at Kolobeng—The Boers vow Vengeance against me—Consequent + Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Journey— + Start in November, 1852—Meet Sechele on his way to England to + obtain Redress from the Queen—He is unable to proceed beyond + the Cape—Meet Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami—The + hot Wind of the Desert—Electric State of the Atmosphere— + Flock of Swifts—Reach Litubaruba—The Cave Lepelole— + Superstitions regarding it—Impoverished State of the + Bakwains—Retaliation on the Boers—Slavery—Attachment of the + Bechuanas to Children—Hydrophobia unknown—Diseases of the + Bakwains few in number—Yearly Epidemics—Hasty Burials— + Ophthalmia—Native Doctors—Knowledge of Surgery at a very low + Ebb—Little Attendance given to Women at their Confinements— + The "Child Medicine"—Salubrity of the Climate well adapted + for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Complaints. + + Chapter 7. Departure from the Country of the Bakwains—Large + black Ant—Land Tortoises—Diseases of wild Animals—Habits of + old Lions—Cowardice of the Lion—Its Dread of a Snare—Major + Vardon's Note—The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the + Ostrich—Seldom attacks full-grown Animals—Buffaloes and + Lions—Mice—Serpents—Treading on one—Venomous and harmless + Varieties—Fascination—Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty—Ceremony of + the Sechu for Boys—The Boyale for young Women—Bamangwato + Hills—The Unicorn's Pass—The Country beyond—Grain—Scarcity + of Water—Honorable Conduct of English Gentlemen—Gordon + Cumming's hunting Adventures—A Word of Advice for young + Sportsmen—Bushwomen drawing Water—Ostrich—Silly Habit— + Paces—Eggs—Food. + + Chapter 8. Effects of Missionary Efforts—Belief in the Deity— + Ideas of the Bakwains on Religion—Departure from their + Country—Salt-pans—Sour Curd—Nchokotsa—Bitter Waters— + Thirst suffered by the wild Animals—Wanton Cruelty in + Hunting—Ntwetwe—Mowana-trees—Their extraordinary Vitality— + The Mopane-tree—The Morala—The Bushmen—Their Superstitions— + Elephant-hunting—Superiority of civilized over barbarous + Sportsmen—The Chief Kaisa—His Fear of Responsibility—Beauty + of the Country at Unku—The Mohonono Bush—Severe Labor in + cutting our Way—Party seized with Fever—Escape of our + Cattle—Bakwain Mode of recapturing them—Vagaries of sick + Servants—Discovery of grape-bearing Vines—An Ant-eater— + Difficulty of passing through the Forest—Sickness of my + Companion—The Bushmen—Their Mode of destroying Lions— + Poisons—The solitary Hill—A picturesque Valley—Beauty of + the Country—Arrive at the Sanshureh River—The flooded + Prairies—A pontooning Expedition—A night Bivouac—The Chobe— + Arrive at the Village of Moremi—Surprise of the Makololo at + our sudden Appearance—Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti. + + Chapter 9. Reception at Linyanti—The court Herald—Sekeletu + obtains the Chieftainship from his Sister—Mpepe's Plot— + Slave-trading Mambari—Their sudden Flight—Sekeletu narrowly + escapes Assassination—Execution of Mpepe—The Courts of Law— + Mode of trying Offenses—Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to + read the Bible—The Disposition made of the Wives of a + deceased Chief—Makololo Women—They work but little—Employ + Serfs—Their Drink, Dress, and Ornaments—Public Religious + Services in the Kotla—Unfavorable Associations of the place— + Native Doctors—Proposals to teach the Makololo to read— + Sekeletu's Present—Reason for accepting it—Trading in Ivory— + Accidental Fire—Presents for Sekeletu—Two Breeds of native + Cattle—Ornamenting the Cattle—The Women and the Looking- + glass—Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Mantles and for + Shields—Throwing the Spear. + + Chapter 10. The Fever—Its Symptoms—Remedies of the native + Doctors—Hospitality of Sekeletu and his People—One of their + Reasons for Polygamy—They cultivate largely—The Makalaka or + subject Tribes—Sebituane's Policy respecting them—Their + Affection for him—Products of the Soil—Instrument of + Culture—The Tribute—Distributed by the Chief—A warlike + Demonstration—Lechulatebe's Provocations—The Makololo + determine to punish him—The Bechuanas—Meaning of the Term— + Three Divisions of the great Family of South Africans. + + Chapter 11. Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke—Level + Country—Ant-hills—Wild Date-trees—Appearance of our + Attendants on the March—The Chief's Guard—They attempt to + ride on Ox-back—Vast Herds of the new Antelopes, Leches, and + Nakongs—The native way of hunting them—Reception at the + Villages—Presents of Beer and Milk—Eating with the Hand—The + Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter—Social Mode of Eating— + The Sugar-cane—Sekeletu's novel Test of Character— + Cleanliness of Makololo Huts—Their Construction and + Appearance—The Beds—Cross the Leeambye—Aspect of this part + of the Country—The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the + South—Hunting on foot—An Eland. + + Chapter 12. Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye—Beautiful + Islands—Winter Landscape—Industry and Skill of the Banyeti— + Rapids—Falls of Gonye—Tradition—Annual Inundations— + Fertility of the great Barotse Valley—Execution of two + Conspirators—The Slave-dealer's Stockade—Naliele, the + Capital, built on an artificial Mound—Santuru, a great + Hunter—The Barotse Method of commemorating any remarkable + Event—Better Treatment of Women—More religious Feeling— + Belief in a future State, and in the Existence of spiritual + Beings—Gardens—Fish, Fruit, and Game—Proceed to the Limits + of the Barotse Country—Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald— + The River and Vicinity—Hippopotamus-hunters—No healthy + Location—Determine to go to Loanda—Buffaloes, Elands, and + Lions above Libonta—Interview with the Mambari—Two Arabs + from Zanzibar—Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English + —Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu—Joy of the People at the + first Visit of their Chief—Return to Sesheke—Heathenism. + + Chapter 13. Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey—A Picho— + Twenty-seven Men appointed to accompany me to the West— + Eagerness of the Makololo for direct Trade with the Coast— + Effects of Fever—A Makololo Question—The lost Journal— + Reflections—The Outfit for the Journey—11th November, 1853, + leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe—Dangerous + Hippopotami—Banks of Chobe—Trees—The Course of the River— + The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the + Leeambye—Anecdote—Ascend the Leeambye—A Makalaka Mother + defies the Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke— + Punishment of Thieves—Observance of the new Moon—Public + Addresses at Sesheke—Attention of the People—Results— + Proceed up the River—The Fruit which yields 'Nux vomica'— + Other Fruits—The Rapids—Birds—Fish—Hippopotami and their + Young. + + Chapter 14. Increasing Beauty of the Country—Mode of spending + the Day—The People and the Falls of Gonye—A Makololo Foray— + A second prevented, and Captives delivered up—Politeness and + Liberality of the People—The Rains—Present of Oxen—The + fugitive Barotse—Sekobinyane's Misgovernment—Bee-eaters and + other Birds—Fresh-water Sponges—Current—Death from a Lion's + Bite at Libonta—Continued Kindness—Arrangements for spending + the Night during the Journey—Cooking and Washing—Abundance + of animal Life—Different Species of Birds—Water-fowl— + Egyptian Geese—Alligators—Narrow Escape of one of my Men— + Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator—Large Game— + The most vulnerable Spot—Gun Medicine—A Sunday—Birds of + Song—Depravity; its Treatment—Wild Fruits—Green Pigeons— + Shoals of Fish—Hippopotami. + + Chapter 15. Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding + the Captives—Navigation of the Leeambye—Capabilities of this + District—The Leeba—Flowers and Bees—Buffalo-hunt—Field for + a Botanist—Young Alligators; their savage Nature—Suspicion + of the Balonda—Sekelenke's Present—A Man and his two Wives— + Hunters—Message from Manenko, a female Chief—Mambari + Traders—A Dream—Sheakondo and his People—Teeth-filing— + Desire for Butter—Interview with Nyamoana, another female + Chief—Court Etiquette—Hair versus Wool—Increase of + Superstition—Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and Husband— + Mode of Salutation—Anklets—Embassy, with a Present from + Masiko—Roast Beef—Manioc—Magic Lantern—Manenko an + accomplished Scold: compels us to wait—Unsuccessful Zebra- + hunt. + + Chapter 16. Nyamoana's Present—Charms—Manenko's pedestrian + Powers—An Idol—Balonda Arms—Rain—Hunger—Palisades—Dense + Forests—Artificial Beehives—Mushrooms—Villagers lend the + Roofs of their Houses—Divination and Idols—Manenko's Whims— + A night Alarm—Shinte's Messengers and Present—The proper + Way to approach a Village—A Merman—Enter Shinte's Town: its + Appearance—Meet two half-caste Slave-traders—The Makololo + scorn them—The Balonda real Negroes—Grand Reception from + Shinte—His Kotla—Ceremony of Introduction—The Orators— + Women—Musicians and Musical Instruments—A disagreeable + Request—Private Interviews with Shinte—Give him an Ox— + Fertility of Soil—Manenko's new Hut—Conversation with + Shinte—Kolimbota's Proposal—Balonda's Punctiliousness— + Selling Children—Kidnapping—Shinte's Offer of a Slave—Magic + Lantern—Alarm of Women—Delay—Sambanza returns intoxicated— + The last and greatest Proof of Shinte's Friendship. + + Chapter 17. Leave Shinte—Manioc Gardens—Mode of preparing + the poisonous kind—Its general Use—Presents of Food— + Punctiliousness of the Balonda—Their Idols and Superstition— + Dress of the Balonda—Villages beyond Lonaje—Cazembe—Our + Guides and the Makololo—Night Rains—Inquiries for English + cotton Goods—Intemese's Fiction—Visit from an old Man— + Theft—Industry of our Guide—Loss of Pontoon—Plains covered + with Water—Affection of the Balonda for their Mothers—A + Night on an Island—The Grass on the Plains—Source of the + Rivers—Loan of the Roofs of Huts—A Halt—Fertility of the + Country through which the Lokalueje flows—Omnivorous Fish— + Natives' Mode of catching them—The Village of a Half-brother + of Katema, his Speech and Present—Our Guide's Perversity— + Mozenkwa's pleasant Home and Family—Clear Water of the + flooded Rivers—A Messenger from Katema—Quendende's Village: + his Kindness—Crop of Wool—Meet People from the Town of + Matiamvo—Fireside Talk—Matiamvo's Character and Conduct— + Presentation at Katema's Court: his Present, good Sense, and + Appearance—Interview on the following Day—Cattle—A Feast + and a Makololo Dance—Arrest of a Fugitive—Dignified old + Courtier—Katema's lax Government—Cold Wind from the North— + Canaries and other singing Birds—Spiders, their Nests and + Webs—Lake Dilolo—Tradition—Sagacity of Ants. + + Chapter 18. The Watershed between the northern and southern + Rivers—A deep Valley—Rustic Bridge—Fountains on the Slopes + of the Valleys—Village of Kabinje—Good Effects of the Belief + in the Power of Charms—Demand for Gunpowder and English + Calico—The Kasai—Vexatious Trick—Want of Food—No Game— + Katende's unreasonable Demand—A grave Offense—Toll-bridge + Keeper—Greedy Guides—Flooded Valleys—Swim the Nyuana Loke— + Prompt Kindness of my Men—Makololo Remarks on the rich + uncultivated Valleys—Difference in the Color of Africans— + Reach a Village of the Chiboque—The Head Man's impudent + Message—Surrounds our Encampment with his Warriors—The + Pretense—Their Demand—Prospect of a Fight—Way in which it + was averted—Change our Path—Summer—Fever—Beehives and the + Honey-guide—Instinct of Trees—Climbers—The Ox Sinbad— + Absence of Thorns in the Forests—Plant peculiar to a forsaken + Garden—Bad Guides—Insubordination suppressed—Beset by + Enemies—A Robber Party—More Troubles—Detained by Ionga + Panza—His Village—Annoyed by Bangala Traders—My Men + discouraged—Their Determination and Precaution. + + Chapter 19. Guides prepaid—Bark Canoes—Deserted by Guides— + Mistakes respecting the Coanza—Feelings of freed Slaves— + Gardens and Villages—Native Traders—A Grave—Valley of the + Quango—Bamboo—White Larvae used as Food—Bashinje Insolence— + A posing Question—The Chief Sansawe—His Hostility—Pass him + safely—The River Quango—Chief's mode of dressing his Hair— + Opposition—Opportune Aid by Cypriano—His generous + Hospitality—Ability of Half-castes to read and write—Books + and Images—Marauding Party burned in the Grass—Arrive at + Cassange—A good Supper—Kindness of Captain Neves— + Portuguese Curiosity and Questions—Anniversary of the + Resurrection—No Prejudice against Color—Country around + Cassange—Sell Sekeletu's Ivory—Makololo's Surprise at the + high Price obtained—Proposal to return Home, and Reasons— + Soldier-guide—Hill Kasala—Tala Mungongo, Village of— + Civility of Basongo—True Negroes—A Field of Wheat—Carriers— + Sleeping-places—Fever—Enter District of Ambaca—Good Fruits + of Jesuit Teaching—The 'Tampan'; its Bite—Universal + Hospitality of the Portuguese—A Tale of the Mambari— + Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery—District of Golungo + Alto—Want of good Roads—Fertility—Forests of gigantic + Timber—Native Carpenters—Coffee Estate—Sterility of Country + near the Coast—Mosquitoes—Fears of the Makololo—Welcome by + Mr. Gabriel to Loanda. + + Chapter 20. Continued Sickness—Kindness of the Bishop of + Angola and her Majesty's Officers—Mr. Gabriel's unwearied + Hospitality—Serious Deportment of the Makololo—They visit + Ships of War—Politeness of the Officers and Men—The Makololo + attend Mass in the Cathedral—Their Remarks—Find Employment + in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal—Their superior + Judgment respecting Goods—Beneficial Influence of the Bishop + of Angola—The City of St. Paul de Loanda—The Harbor—Custom- + house—No English Merchants—Sincerity of the Portuguese + Government in suppressing the Slave-trade—Convict Soldiers— + Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu—Outfit—Leave + Loanda 20th September, 1854—Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far + as Icollo i Bengo—Sugar Manufactory—Geology of this part of + the Country—Women spinning Cotton—Its Price—Native Weavers— + Market-places—Cazengo; its Coffee Plantations—South + American Trees—Ruins of Iron Foundry—Native Miners—The + Banks of the Lucalla—Cottages with Stages—Tobacco-plants— + Town of Massangano—Sugar and Rice—Superior District for + Cotton—Portuguese Merchants and foreign Enterprise—Ruins— + The Fort and its ancient Guns—Former Importance of + Massangano—Fires—The Tribe Kisama—Peculiar Variety of + Domestic Fowl—Coffee Plantations—Return to Golungo Alto— + Self-complacency of the Makololo—Fever—Jaundice—Insanity. + + Chapter 21. Visit a deserted Convent—Favorable Report of + Jesuits and their Teaching—Gradations of native Society— + Punishment of Thieves—Palm-toddy; its baneful Effects— + Freemasons—Marriages and Funerals—Litigation—Mr. Canto's + Illness—Bad Behavior of his Slaves—An Entertainment—Ideas + on Free Labor—Loss of American Cotton-seed—Abundance of + Cotton in the country—Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse—Eclipse + of the Sun—Insects which distill Water—Experiments with + them—Proceed to Ambaca—Sickly Season—Office of Commandant— + Punishment of official Delinquents—Present from Mr. Schut of + Loanda—Visit Pungo Andongo—Its good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, + etc.—The Fort and columnar Rocks—The Queen of Jinga— + Salubrity of Pungo Andongo—Price of a Slave—A Merchant- + prince—His Hospitality—Hear of the Loss of my Papers in + "Forerunner"—Narrow Escape from an Alligator—Ancient Burial- + places—Neglect of Agriculture in Angola—Manioc the staple + Product—Its Cheapness—Sickness—Friendly Visit from a + colored Priest—The Prince of Congo—No Priests in the + Interior of Angola. + + Chapter 22. Leave Pungo Andongo—Extent of Portuguese Power— + Meet Traders and Carriers—Red Ants; their fierce Attack; + Usefulness; Numbers—Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo— + Fruit-trees in the Valley of Cassange—Edible Muscle—Birds— + Cassange Village—Quinine and Cathory—Sickness of Captain + Neves' Infant—A Diviner thrashed—Death of the Child— + Mourning—Loss of Life from the Ordeal—Wide-spread + Superstitions—The Chieftainship—Charms—Receive Copies of + the "Times"—Trading Pombeiros—Present for Matiamvo—Fever + after westerly Winds—Capabilities of Angola for producing the + raw Materials of English Manufacture—Trading Parties with + Ivory—More Fever—A Hyaena's Choice—Makololo Opinion of the + Portuguese—Cypriano's Debt—A Funeral—Dread of disembodied + Spirits—Beautiful Morning Scenes—Crossing the Quango— + Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola"—Fashions of the + Bashinje—Approach the Village of Sansawe—His Idea of + Dignity—The Pombeiros' Present—Long Detention—A Blow on the + Beard—Attacked in a Forest—Sudden Conversion of a fighting + Chief to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver—No Blood + shed in consequence—Rate of Traveling—Slave Women—Way of + addressing Slaves—Their thievish Propensities—Feeders of the + Congo or Zaire—Obliged to refuse Presents—Cross the Loajima— + Appearance of People; Hair Fashions. + + Chapter 23. Make a Detour southward—Peculiarities of the + Inhabitants—Scarcity of Animals—Forests—Geological + Structure of the Country—Abundance and Cheapness of Food near + the Chihombo—A Slave lost—The Makololo Opinion of + Slaveholders—Funeral Obsequies in Cabango—Send a Sketch of + the Country to Mr. Gabriel—Native Information respecting the + Kasai and Quango—The Trade with Luba—Drainage of Londa— + Report of Matiamvo's Country and Government—Senhor Faria's + Present to a Chief—The Balonda Mode of spending Time— + Faithless Guide—Makololo lament the Ignorance of the Balonda— + Eagerness of the Villagers for Trade—Civility of a Female + Chief—The Chief Bango and his People—Refuse to eat Beef— + Ambition of Africans to have a Village—Winters in the + Interior—Spring at Kolobeng—White Ants: "Never could desire + to eat any thing better"—Young Herbage and Animals—Valley of + the Loembwe—The white Man a Hobgoblin—Specimen of + Quarreling—Eager Desire for Calico—Want of Clothing at + Kawawa's—Funeral Observances—Agreeable Intercourse with + Kawawa—His impudent Demand—Unpleasant Parting—Kawawa tries + to prevent our crossing the River Kasai—Stratagem. + + Chapter 24. Level Plains—Vultures and other Birds—Diversity + of Color in Flowers of the same Species—The Sundew—Twenty- + seventh Attack of Fever—A River which flows in opposite + Directions—Lake Dilolo the Watershed between the Atlantic and + Indian Oceans—Position of Rocks—Sir Roderick Murchison's + Explanation—Characteristics of the Rainy Season in connection + with the Floods of the Zambesi and the Nile—Probable Reason + of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North of the + Equator—Arab Reports of Region east of Londa—Probable + Watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile—Lake Dilolo—Reach + Katema's Town: his renewed Hospitality; desire to appear like + a White Man; ludicrous Departure—Jackdaws—Ford southern + Branch of Lake Dilolo—Small Fish—Project for a Makololo + Village near the Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye— + Hearty Welcome from Shinte—Kolimbota's Wound—Plant-seeds and + Fruit-trees brought from Angola—Masiko and Limboa's Quarrel— + Nyamoana now a Widow—Purchase Canoes and descend the Leeba— + Herds of wild Animals on its Banks—Unsuccessful Buffalo- + hunt—Frogs—Sinbad and the Tsetse—Dispatch a Message to + Manenko—Arrival of her Husband Sambanza—The Ceremony called + Kasendi—Unexpected Fee for performing a surgical Operation— + Social Condition of the Tribes—Desertion of Mboenga— + Stratagem of Mambowe Hunters—Water-turtles—Charged by a + Buffalo—Reception from the People of Libonta—Explain the + Causes of our long Delay—Pitsane's Speech—Thanksgiving + Services—Appearance of my "Braves"—Wonderful Kindness of the + People. + + Chapter 25. Colony of Birds called Linkololo—The Village of + Chitlane—Murder of Mpololo's Daughter—Execution of the + Murderer and his Wife—My Companions find that their Wives + have married other Husbands—Sunday—A Party from Masiko— + Freedom of Speech—Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus—Gonye— + Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter—Murky Atmosphere— + Surprising Amount of organic Life—Hornets—The Packages + forwarded by Mr. Moffat—Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the + Matebele who brought them—Convey the Goods to an Island and + build a Hut over them—Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had + recognized the true Form of African Continent—Arrival at + Linyanti—A grand Picho—Shrewd Inquiry—Sekeletu in his + Uniform—A Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory—Mr. + Gabriel's Kindness to them—Difficulties in Trading—Two + Makololo Forays during our Absence—Report of the Country to + the N.E.—Death of influential Men—The Makololo desire to be + nearer the Market—Opinions upon a Change of Residence— + Climate of Barotse Valley—Diseases—Author's Fevers not a + fair Criterion in the Matter—The Interior an inviting Field + for the Philanthropist—Consultations about a Path to the East + Coast—Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi—Wait for + the Rainy Season—Native way of spending Time during the + period of greatest Heat—Favorable Opening for Missionary + Enterprise—Ben Habib wishes to marry—A Maiden's Choice— + Sekeletu's Hospitality—Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria— + Conversations with Makololo—Their moral Character and + Conduct—Sekeletu wishes to purchase a Sugar-mill, etc.—The + Donkeys—Influence among the Natives—"Food fit for a Chief"— + Parting Words of Mamire—Motibe's Excuses. + + Chapter 26. Departure from Linyanti—A Thunder-storm—An Act + of genuine Kindness—Fitted out a second time by the Makololo— + Sail down the Leeambye—Sekote's Kotla and human Skulls; his + Grave adorned with Elephants' Tusks—Victoria Falls—Native + Names—Columns of Vapor—Gigantic Crack—Wear of the Rocks— + Shrines of the Barimo—"The Pestle of the Gods"—Second Visit + to the Falls—Island Garden—Store-house Island—Native + Diviners—A European Diviner—Makololo Foray—Marauder to be + fined—Mambari—Makololo wish to stop Mambari Slave-trading— + Part with Sekeletu—Night Traveling—River Lekone—Ancient + fresh-water Lakes—Formation of Lake Ngami—Native Traditions— + Drainage of the Great Valley—Native Reports of the Country + to the North—Maps—Moyara's Village—Savage Customs of the + Batoka—A Chain of Trading Stations—Remedy against Tsetse— + "The Well of Joy"—First Traces of Trade with Europeans— + Knocking out the front Teeth—Facetious Explanation— + Degradation of the Batoka—Description of the Traveling Party— + Cross the Unguesi—Geological Formation—Ruins of a large + Town—Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola— + Abundance of Fruit. + + Chapter 27. Low Hills—Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism— + The Plasterer and its Chloroform—White Ants; their + Usefulness—Mutokwane-smoking; its Effects—Border Territory— + Healthy Table-lands—Geological Formation—Cicadae—Trees— + Flowers—River Kalomo—Physical Conformation of Country— + Ridges, sanatoria—A wounded Buffalo assisted—Buffalo-bird— + Rhinoceros-bird—Leaders of Herds—The Honey-guide—The White + Mountain—Mozuma River—Sebituane's old Home—Hostile Village— + Prophetic Phrensy—Food of the Elephant—Ant-hills—Friendly + Batoka—Clothing despised—Method of Salutation—Wild Fruits— + The Captive released—Longings for Peace—Pingola's Conquests— + The Village of Monze—Aspect of the Country—Visit from the + Chief Monze and his Wife—Central healthy Locations—Friendly + Feelings of the People in reference to a white Resident— + Fertility of the Soil—Bashukulompo Mode of dressing their + Hair—Gratitude of the Prisoner we released—Kindness and + Remarks of Monze's Sister—Dip of the Rocks—Vegetation— + Generosity of the Inhabitants—Their Anxiety for Medicine— + Hooping-cough—Birds and Rain. + + Chapter 28. Beautiful Valley—Buffalo—My young Men kill two + Elephants—The Hunt—Mode of measuring Height of live + Elephants—Wild Animals smaller here than in the South, though + their Food is more abundant—The Elephant a dainty Feeder— + Semalembue—His Presents—Joy in prospect of living in Peace— + Trade—His People's way of wearing their Hair—Their Mode of + Salutation—Old Encampment—Sebituane's former Residence—Ford + of Kafue—Hippopotami—Hills and Villages—Geological + Formation—Prodigious Quantities of large Game—Their + Tameness—Rains—Less Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda— + Reason—Charge from an Elephant—Vast Amount of animal Life on + the Zambesi—Water of River discolored—An Island with + Buffaloes and Men on it—Native Devices for killing Game— + Tsetse now in Country—Agricultural Industry—An Albino + murdered by his Mother—"Guilty of Tlolo"—Women who make + their Mouths "like those of Ducks"—First Symptom of the + Slave-trade on this side—Selole's Hostility—An armed Party + hoaxed—An Italian Marauder slain—Elephant's Tenacity of + Life—A Word to young Sportsmen—Mr. Oswell's Adventure with + an Elephant; narrow Escape—Mburuma's Village—Suspicious + Conduct of his People—Guides attempt to detain us—The + Village and People of Ma Mburuma—Character our Guides give of + us. + + Chapter 29. Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi—Hostile + Appearances—Ruins of a Church—Turmoil of Spirit—Cross the + River—Friendly Parting—Ruins of stone Houses—The Situation + of Zumbo for Commerce—Pleasant Gardens—Dr. Lacerda's Visit + to Cazembe—Pereira's Statement—Unsuccessful Attempt to + establish Trade with the People of Cazembe—One of my Men + tossed by a Buffalo—Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on—Hear + of the Portuguese and native War—Holms and Terraces on the + Banks of a River—Dancing for Corn—Beautiful Country— + Mpende's Hostility—Incantations—A Fight anticipated—Courage + and Remarks of my Men—Visit from two old Councilors of + Mpende—Their Opinion of the English—Mpende concludes not to + fight us—His subsequent Friendship—Aids us to cross the + River—The Country—Sweet Potatoes—Bakwain Theory of Rain + confirmed—Thunder without Clouds—Desertion of one of my Men— + Other Natives' Ideas of the English—Dalama (gold)— + Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers—Meet native Traders with + American Calico—Game-laws—Elephant Medicine—Salt from the + Sand—Fertility of Soil—Spotted Hyaena—Liberality and + Politeness of the People—Presents—A stingy white Trader— + Natives' Remarks about him—Effect on their Minds—Rain and + Wind now from an opposite Direction—Scarcity of Fuel—Trees + for Boat-building—Boroma—Freshets—Leave the River—Chicova, + its Geological Features—Small Rapid near Tete—Loquacious + Guide—Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer—An old Man—No Silver— + Gold-washing—No Cattle. + + Chapter 30. An Elephant-hunt—Offering and Prayers to the + Barimo for Success—Native Mode of Expression—Working of + Game-laws—A Feast—Laughing Hyaenas—Numerous Insects— + Curious Notes of Birds of Song—Caterpillars—Butterflies— + Silica—The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants—Rhinoceros + Adventure—Korwe Bird—Its Nest—A real Confinement—Honey and + Beeswax—Superstitious Reverence for the Lion—Slow Traveling— + Grapes—The Ue—Monina's Village—Native Names—Government of + the Banyai—Electing a Chief—Youths instructed in "Bonyai"— + Suspected of Falsehood—War-dance—Insanity and Disappearance + of Monahin—Fruitless Search—Monina's Sympathy—The Sand- + river Tangwe—The Ordeal Muavi: its Victims—An unreasonable + Man—"Woman's Rights"—Presents—Temperance—A winding Course + to shun Villages—Banyai Complexion and Hair—Mushrooms—The + Tubers, Mokuri—The Tree Shekabakadzi—Face of the Country— + Pot-holes—Pursued by a Party of Natives—Unpleasant Threat— + Aroused by a Company of Soldiers—A civilized Breakfast— + Arrival at Tete. + + Chapter 31. Kind Reception from the Commandant—His Generosity + to my Men—The Village of Tete—The Population—Distilled + Spirits—The Fort—Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power— + Former Trade—Slaves employed in Gold-washing—Slave-trade + drained the Country of Laborers—The Rebel Nyaude's Stockade— + He burns Tete—Kisaka's Revolt and Ravages—Extensive Field of + Sugar-cane—The Commandant's good Reputation among the + Natives—Providential Guidance—Seams of Coal—A hot Spring— + Picturesque Country—Water-carriage to the Coal-fields— + Workmen's Wages—Exports—Price of Provisions—Visit Gold- + washings—The Process of obtaining the precious Metal—Coal + within a Gold-field—Present from Major Sicard—Natives raise + Wheat, etc.—Liberality of the Commandant—Geographical + Information from Senhor Candido—Earthquakes—Native Ideas of + a Supreme Being—Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of + Souls—Fondness for Display at Funerals—Trade Restrictions— + Former Jesuit Establishment—State of Religion and Education + at Tete—Inundation of the Zambesi—Cotton cultivated—The + fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze—Detained by Fever—The + Kumbanzo Bark—Native Medicines—Iron, its Quality—Hear of + Famine at Kilimane—Death of a Portuguese Lady—The Funeral— + Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese. + + Chapter 32. Leave Tete and proceed down the River—Pass the + Stockade of Bonga—Gorge of Lupata—"Spine of the World"— + Width of River—Islands—War Drum at Shiramba—Canoe + Navigation—Reach Senna—Its ruinous State—Landeens levy + Fines upon the Inhabitants—Cowardice of native Militia—State + of the Revenue—No direct Trade with Portugal—Attempts to + revive the Trade of Eastern Africa—Country round Senna— + Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station—Manica, the best Gold Region in + Eastern Africa—Boat-building at Senna—Our Departure—Capture + of a Rebel Stockade—Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the + Confluence of the Shire—Landeen Opinion of the Whites— + Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker—His Opinion + respecting the Navigation of the River from this to the Ocean— + Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the same subject—Fever, its + Effects—Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at + Kilimane—Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh—Joy + imbittered—Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc.— + On developing Resources of the Interior—Desirableness of + Missionary Societies selecting healthy Stations—Arrangements + on leaving my Men—Retrospect—Probable Influence of the + Discoveries on Slavery—Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free + Labor—Commercial Stations—Development of the Resources of + Africa a Work of Time—Site of Kilimane—Unhealthiness—Death + of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever—The Captain saved by + Quinine—Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic"—Anxiety of one of my + Men to go to England—Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship— + Sekwebu's Alarm—Sail for Mauritius—Sekwebu on board; he + becomes insane; drowns himself—Kindness of Major-General C. + M. Hay—Escape Shipwreck—Reach Home. + + Appendix.—Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions. + + Appendix.—Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, + February, 1858. + + Appendix.—Notes to etext. +</pre> + <p> + ————————————————————————— + </p> + <h1> + Missionary Travels and Researches <br /> in South Africa. + </h1> + <p> + ————————————————————————— + <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Introduction. + </h2> + <p> + Personal Sketch—Highland Ancestors—Family Traditions—Grandfather + removes to the Lowlands—Parents—Early Labors and Efforts + —Evening School—Love of Reading—Religious Impressions—Medical + Education—Youthful Travels—Geology—Mental Discipline—Study + in Glasgow—London Missionary Society—Native Village—Medical + Diploma—Theological Studies—Departure for Africa—No + Claim to Literary Accomplishments. + </p> + <p> + My own inclination would lead me to say as little as possible about + myself; but several friends, in whose judgment I have confidence, have + suggested that, as the reader likes to know something about the author, a + short account of his origin and early life would lend additional interest + to this book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism; and, if an + apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in the fact that it + is not very long, and contains only one incident of which I have reason to + be proud. + </p> + <p> + Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fighting for the old + line of kings; and our grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, where my + father was born. It is one of that cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to + by Walter Scott: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, + And all the group of islets gay + That guard famed Staffa round."* + + * Lord of the Isles, canto 4. +</pre> + <p> + Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the traditionary + legends which that great writer has since made use of in the "Tales of a + Grandfather" and other works. As a boy I remember listening to him with + delight, for his memory was stored with a never-ending stock of stories, + many of which were wonderfully like those I have since heard while sitting + by the African evening fires. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic + songs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed by captive + islanders languishing hopelessly among the Turks. + </p> + <p> + Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his ancestors for six + generations of the family before him; and the only point of the tradition + I feel proud of is this: One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in + the district for great wisdom and prudence; and it is related that, when + he was on his death-bed, he called all his children around him and said, + "Now, in my lifetime, I have searched most carefully through all the + traditions I could find of our family, and I never could discover that + there was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If, therefore, any of you + or any of your children should take to dishonest ways, it will not be + because it runs in our blood: it does not belong to you. I leave this + precept with you: Be honest." If, therefore, in the following pages I fall + into any errors, I hope they will be dealt with as honest mistakes, and + not as indicating that I have forgotten our ancient motto. This event took + place at a time when the Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much + like the Cape Caffres, and any one, it was said, could escape punishment + for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain. + Our ancestors were Roman Catholics; they were made Protestants by the + laird coming round with a man having a yellow staff, which would seem to + have attracted more attention than his teaching, for the new religion went + long afterward, perhaps it does so still, by the name of "the religion of + the yellow stick". + </p> + <p> + Finding his farm in Ulva insufficient to support a numerous family, my + grandfather removed to Blantyre Works, a large cotton manufactory on the + beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow; and his sons, having had the best + education the Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by the + proprietors, Monteith and Co. He himself, highly esteemed for his + unflinching honesty, was employed in the conveyance of large sums of money + from Glasgow to the works, and in old age was, according to the custom of + that company, pensioned off, so as to spend his declining years in ease + and comfort. + </p> + <p> + Our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the last French war, + either as soldiers or sailors; but my father remained at home, and, though + too conscientious ever to become rich as a small tea-dealer, by his + kindliness of manner and winning ways he made the heart-strings of his + children twine around him as firmly as if he had possessed, and could have + bestowed upon them, every worldly advantage. He reared his children in + connection with the Kirk of Scotland—a religious establishment which + has been an incalculable blessing to that country—but he afterward + left it, and during the last twenty years of his life held the office of + deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, and deserved my lasting + gratitude and homage for presenting me, from my infancy, with a + continuously consistent pious example, such as that ideal of which is so + beautifully and truthfully portrayed in Burns's "Cottar's Saturday Night". + He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope of that mercy which we all + expect through the death of our Lord and Savior. I was at the time on my + way below Zumbo, expecting no greater pleasure in this country than + sitting by our cottage fire and telling him my travels. I revere his + memory. + </p> + <p> + The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture so often seen + among the Scottish poor—that of the anxious housewife striving to + make both ends meet. At the age of ten I was put into the factory as a + "piecer", to aid by my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of + my first week's wages I purchased Ruddiman's "Rudiments of Latin", and + pursued the study of that language for many years afterward, with unabated + ardor, at an evening school, which met between the hours of eight and ten. + The dictionary part of my labors was followed up till twelve o'clock, or + later, if my mother did not interfere by jumping up and snatching the + books out of my hands. I had to be back in the factory by six in the + morning, and continue my work, with intervals for breakfast and dinner, + till eight o'clock at night. I read in this way many of the classical + authors, and knew Virgil and Horace better at sixteen than I do now. Our + schoolmaster—happily still alive—was supported in part by the + company; he was attentive and kind, and so moderate in his charges that + all who wished for education might have obtained it. Many availed + themselves of the privilege; and some of my schoolfellows now rank in + positions far above what they appeared ever likely to come to when in the + village school. If such a system were established in England, it would + prove a never-ending blessing to the poor. + </p> + <p> + In reading, every thing that I could lay my hands on was devoured except + novels. Scientific works and books of travels were my especial delight; + though my father, believing, with many of his time who ought to have known + better, that the former were inimical to religion, would have preferred to + have seen me poring over the "Cloud of Witnesses", or Boston's "Fourfold + State". Our difference of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on + my part, and his last application of the rod was on my refusal to peruse + Wilberforce's "Practical Christianity". This dislike to dry doctrinal + reading, and to religious reading of every sort, continued for years + afterward; but having lighted on those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, + "The Philosophy of Religion" and "The Philosophy of a Future State", it + was gratifying to find my own ideas, that religion and science are not + hostile, but friendly to each other, fully proved and enforced. + </p> + <p> + Great pains had been taken by my parents to instill the doctrines of + Christianity into my mind, and I had no difficulty in understanding the + theory of our free salvation by the atonement of our Savior, but it was + only about this time that I really began to feel the necessity and value + of a personal application of the provisions of that atonement to my own + case. The change was like what may be supposed would take place were it + possible to cure a case of "color blindness". The perfect freeness with + which the pardon of all our guilt is offered in God's book drew forth + feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought us with his blood, and a + sense of deep obligation to Him for his mercy has influenced, in some + small measure, my conduct ever since. But I shall not again refer to the + inner spiritual life which I believe then began, nor do I intend to + specify with any prominence the evangelistic labors to which the love of + Christ has since impelled me. This book will speak, not so much of what + has been done, as of what still remains to be performed, before the Gospel + can be said to be preached to all nations. + </p> + <p> + In the glow of love which Christianity inspires, I soon resolved to devote + my life to the alleviation of human misery. Turning this idea over in my + mind, I felt that to be a pioneer of Christianity in China might lead to + the material benefit of some portions of that immense empire; and + therefore set myself to obtain a medical education, in order to be + qualified for that enterprise. + </p> + <p> + In recognizing the plants pointed out in my first medical book, that + extraordinary old work on astrological medicine, Culpeper's "Herbal", I + had the guidance of a book on the plants of Lanarkshire, by Patrick. + Limited as my time was, I found opportunities to scour the whole + country-side, "collecting simples". Deep and anxious were my studies on + the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of astrology, and I + believe I got as far into that abyss of phantasies as my author said he + dared to lead me. It seemed perilous ground to tread on farther, for the + dark hint seemed to my youthful mind to loom toward "selling soul and body + to the devil", as the price of the unfathomable knowledge of the stars. + These excursions, often in company with brothers, one now in Canada, and + the other a clergyman in the United States, gratified my intense love of + nature; and though we generally returned so unmercifully hungry and + fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears, yet we discovered, to us, so + many new and interesting things, that he was always as eager to join us + next time as he was the last. + </p> + <p> + On one of these exploring tours we entered a limestone quarry—long + before geology was so popular as it is now. It is impossible to describe + the delight and wonder with which I began to collect the shells found in + the carboniferous limestone which crops out in High Blantyre and + Cambuslang. A quarry-man, seeing a little boy so engaged, looked with that + pitying eye which the benevolent assume when viewing the insane. + Addressing him with, "How ever did these shells come into these rocks?" + "When God made the rocks, he made the shells in them," was the damping + reply. What a deal of trouble geologists might have saved themselves by + adopting the Turk-like philosophy of this Scotchman! + </p> + <p> + My reading while at work was carried on by placing the book on a portion + of the spinning-jenny, so that I could catch sentence after sentence as I + passed at my work; I thus kept up a pretty constant study undisturbed by + the roar of the machinery. To this part of my education I owe my present + power of completely abstracting the mind from surrounding noises, so as to + read and write with perfect comfort amid the play of children or near the + dancing and songs of savages. The toil of cotton-spinning, to which I was + promoted in my nineteenth year, was excessively severe on a slim, + loose-jointed lad, but it was well paid for; and it enabled me to support + myself while attending medical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as + also the divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlaw, by working with my hands in + summer. I never received a farthing of aid from any one, and should have + accomplished my project of going to China as a medical missionary, in the + course of time, by my own efforts, had not some friends advised my joining + the London Missionary Society on account of its perfectly unsectarian + character. It "sends neither Episcopacy, nor Presbyterianism, nor + Independency, but the Gospel of Christ to the heathen." This exactly + agreed with my ideas of what a missionary society ought to do; but it was + not without a pang that I offered myself, for it was not quite agreeable + to one accustomed to work his own way to become in a measure dependent on + others; and I would not have been much put about though my offer had been + rejected. + </p> + <p> + Looking back now on that life of toil, I can not but feel thankful that it + formed such a material part of my early education; and, were it possible, + I should like to begin life over again in the same lowly style, and to + pass through the same hardy training. + </p> + <p> + Time and travel have not effaced the feelings of respect I imbibed for the + humble inhabitants of my native village. For morality, honesty, and + intelligence, they were, in general, good specimens of the Scottish poor. + In a population of more than two thousand souls, we had, of course, a + variety of character. In addition to the common run of men, there were + some characters of sterling worth and ability, who exerted a most + beneficial influence on the children and youth of the place by imparting + gratuitous religious instruction.* Much intelligent interest was felt by + the villagers in all public questions, and they furnished a proof that the + possession of the means of education did not render them an unsafe portion + of the population. They felt kindly toward each other, and much respected + those of the neighboring gentry who, like the late Lord Douglas, placed + some confidence in their sense of honor. Through the kindness of that + nobleman, the poorest among us could stroll at pleasure over the ancient + domains of Bothwell, and other spots hallowed by the venerable + associations of which our school-books and local traditions made us well + aware; and few of us could view the dear memorials of the past without + feeling that these carefully kept monuments were our own. The masses of + the working-people of Scotland have read history, and are no revolutionary + levelers. They rejoice in the memories of "Wallace and Bruce and a' the + lave," who are still much revered as the former champions of freedom. And + while foreigners imagine that we want the spirit only to overturn + capitalists and aristocracy, we are content to respect our laws till we + can change them, and hate those stupid revolutions which might sweep away + time-honored institutions, dear alike to rich and poor. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of + these most worthy men—David Hogg, who addressed me on his + death-bed with the words, "Now, lad, make religion the every- + day business of your life, and not a thing of fits and starts; + for if you do not, temptation and other things will get the + better of you;" and Thomas Burke, an old Forty-second + Peninsula soldier, who has been incessant and never weary in + good works for about forty years. I was delighted to find him + still alive; men like these are an honor to their country and + profession. +</pre> + <p> + Having finished the medical curriculum and presented a thesis on a subject + which required the use of the stethoscope for its diagnosis, I unwittingly + procured for myself an examination rather more severe and prolonged than + usual among examining bodies. The reason was, that between me and the + examiners a slight difference of opinion existed as to whether this + instrument could do what was asserted. The wiser plan would have been to + have had no opinion of my own. However, I was admitted a Licentiate of + Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons. It was with unfeigned delight I became + a member of a profession which is pre-eminently devoted to practical + benevolence, and which with unwearied energy pursues from age to age its + endeavors to lessen human woe. + </p> + <p> + But though now qualified for my original plan, the opium war was then + raging, and it was deemed inexpedient for me to proceed to China. I had + fondly hoped to have gained access to that then closed empire by means of + the healing art; but there being no prospect of an early peace with the + Chinese, and as another inviting field was opening out through the labors + of Mr. Moffat, I was induced to turn my thoughts to Africa; and after a + more extended course of theological training in England than I had enjoyed + in Glasgow, I embarked for Africa in 1840, and, after a voyage of three + months, reached Cape Town. Spending but a short time there, I started for + the interior by going round to Algoa Bay, and soon proceeded inland, and + have spent the following sixteen years of my life, namely, from 1840 to + 1856, in medical and missionary labors there without cost to the + inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + As to those literary qualifications which are acquired by habits of + writing, and which are so important to an author, my African life has not + only not been favorable to the growth of such accomplishments, but quite + the reverse; it has made composition irksome and laborious. I think I + would rather cross the African continent again than undertake to write + another book. It is far easier to travel than to write about it. I + intended on going to Africa to continue my studies; but as I could not + brook the idea of simply entering into other men's labors made ready to my + hands, I entailed on myself, in addition to teaching, manual labor in + building and other handicraft work, which made me generally as much + exhausted and unfit for study in the evenings as ever I had been when a + cotton-spinner. The want of time for self-improvement was the only source + of regret that I experienced during my African career. The reader, + remembering this, will make allowances for the mere gropings for light of + a student who has the vanity to think himself "not yet too old to learn". + More precise information on several subjects has necessarily been omitted + in a popular work like the present; but I hope to give such details to the + scientific reader through some other channel. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 1. + </h2> + <p> + The Bakwain Country—Study of the Language—Native Ideas + regarding Comets—Mabotsa Station—A Lion Encounter—Virus + of the Teeth of Lions—Names of the Bechuana Tribes—Sechele—His + Ancestors—Obtains the Chieftainship—His Marriage and + Government—The Kotla—First public Religious Services—Sechele's + Questions—He Learns to Read—Novel mode for Converting his + Tribe—Surprise at their Indifference— Polygamy—Baptism + of Sechele—Opposition of the Natives—Purchase Land at Chonuane—Relations + with the People—Their Intelligence—Prolonged Drought—Consequent + Trials—Rain-medicine—God's Word blamed—Native Reasoning—Rain-maker—Dispute + between Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor—The Hunting Hopo—Salt + or animal Food a necessary of Life—Duties of a Missionary. + </p> + <p> + The general instructions I received from the Directors of the London + Missionary Society led me, as soon as I reached Kuruman or Lattakoo, then, + as it is now, their farthest inland station from the Cape, to turn my + attention to the north. Without waiting longer at Kuruman than was + necessary to recruit the oxen, which were pretty well tired by the long + journey from Algoa Bay, I proceeded, in company with another missionary, + to the Bakuena or Bakwain country, and found Sechele, with his tribe, + located at Shokuane. We shortly after retraced our steps to Kuruman; but + as the objects in view were by no means to be attained by a temporary + excursion of this sort, I determined to make a fresh start into the + interior as soon as possible. Accordingly, after resting three months at + Kuruman, which is a kind of head station in the country, I returned to a + spot about fifteen miles south of Shokuane, called Lepelole (now + Litubaruba). Here, in order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the + language, I cut myself off from all European society for about six months, + and gained by this ordeal an insight into the habits, ways of thinking, + laws, and language of that section of the Bechuanas called Bakwains, which + has proved of incalculable advantage in my intercourse with them ever + since. + </p> + <p> + In this second journey to Lepelole—so called from a cavern of that + name—I began preparations for a settlement, by making a canal to + irrigate gardens, from a stream then flowing copiously, but now quite dry. + When these preparations were well advanced, I went northward to visit the + Bakaa and Bamangwato, and the Makalaka, living between 22 Degrees and 23 + Degrees south latitude. The Bakaa Mountains had been visited before by a + trader, who, with his people, all perished from fever. In going round the + northern part of these basaltic hills near Letloche I was only ten days + distant from the lower part of the Zouga, which passed by the same name as + Lake Ngami;* and I might then (in 1842) have discovered that lake, had + discovery alone been my object. Most part of this journey beyond Shokuane + was performed on foot, in consequence of the draught oxen having become + sick. Some of my companions who had recently joined us, and did not know + that I understood a little of their speech, were overheard by me + discussing my appearance and powers: "He is not strong; he is quite slim, + and only appears stout because he puts himself into those bags (trowsers); + he will soon knock up." This caused my Highland blood to rise, and made me + despise the fatigue of keeping them all at the top of their speed for days + together, and until I heard them expressing proper opinions of my + pedestrian powers. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Several words in the African languages begin with the ringing sound + heard in the end of the word "comING". If the reader puts an 'i' + to the beginning of the name of the lake, as Ingami, + and then sounds the 'i' as little as possible, he will have + the correct pronunciation. The Spanish n [ny] is employed + to denote this sound, and Ngami is spelt nyami—naka means a tusk, + nyaka a doctor. Every vowel is sounded in all native words, + and the emphasis in pronunciation is put upon the penultimate. +</pre> + <p> + Returning to Kuruman, in order to bring my luggage to our proposed + settlement, I was followed by the news that the tribe of Bakwains, who had + shown themselves so friendly toward me, had been driven from Lepelole by + the Barolongs, so that my prospects for the time of forming a settlement + there were at an end. One of those periodical outbreaks of war, which seem + to have occurred from time immemorial, for the possession of cattle, had + burst forth in the land, and had so changed the relations of the tribes to + each other, that I was obliged to set out anew to look for a suitable + locality for a mission station. + </p> + <p> + In going north again, a comet blazed on our sight, exciting the wonder of + every tribe we visited. That of 1816 had been followed by an irruption of + the Matebele, the most cruel enemies the Bechuanas ever knew, and this + they thought might portend something as bad, or it might only foreshadow + the death of some great chief. On this subject of comets I knew little + more than they did themselves, but I had that confidence in a kind, + overruling Providence, which makes such a difference between Christians + and both the ancient and modern heathen. + </p> + <p> + As some of the Bamangwato people had accompanied me to Kuruman, I was + obliged to restore them and their goods to their chief Sekomi. This made a + journey to the residence of that chief again necessary, and, for the first + time, I performed a distance of some hundred miles on ox-back. + </p> + <p> + Returning toward Kuruman, I selected the beautiful valley of Mabotsa (lat. + 25d 14' south, long. 26d 30'?) as the site of a missionary station, and + thither I removed in 1843. Here an occurrence took place concerning which + I have frequently been questioned in England, and which, but for the + importunities of friends, I meant to have kept in store to tell my + children when in my dotage. The Bakatla of the village Mabotsa were much + troubled by lions, which leaped into the cattle-pens by night, and + destroyed their cows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This was + so unusual an occurrence that the people believed that they were bewitched—"given," + as they said, "into the power of the lions by a neighboring tribe." They + went once to attack the animals, but, being rather a cowardly people + compared to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, they returned without + killing any. + </p> + <p> + It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed, the others + take the hint and leave that part of the country. So, the next time the + herds were attacked, I went with the people, in order to encourage them to + rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. We + found the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length, and + covered with trees. A circle of men was formed round it, and they + gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to each other. Being down below + on the plain with a native schoolmaster, named Mebalwe, a most excellent + man, I saw one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the now + closed circle of men. Mebalwe fired at him before I could, and the ball + struck the rock on which the animal was sitting. He bit at the spot + struck, as a dog does at a stick or stone thrown at him; then leaping + away, broke through the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The men were + afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in witchcraft. + When the circle was re-formed, we saw two other lions in it; but we were + afraid to fire lest we should strike the men, and they allowed the beasts + to burst through also. If the Bakatla had acted according to the custom of + the country, they would have speared the lions in their attempt to get + out. Seeing we could not get them to kill one of the lions, we bent our + footsteps toward the village; in going round the end of the hill, however, + I saw one of the beasts sitting on a piece of rock as before, but this + time he had a little bush in front. Being about thirty yards off, I took a + good aim at his body through the bush, and fired both barrels into it. The + men then called out, "He is shot, he is shot!" Others cried, "He has been + shot by another man too; let us go to him!" I did not see any one else + shoot at him, but I saw the lion's tail erected in anger behind the bush, + and, turning to the people, said, "Stop a little, till I load again." When + in the act of ramming down the bullets, I heard a shout. Starting, and + looking half round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon me. I + was upon a little height; he caught my shoulder as he sprang, and we both + came to the ground below together. Growling horribly close to my ear, he + shook me as a terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar + to that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of the + cat. It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was no sense of pain + nor feeling of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. + It was like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform + describe, who see all the operation, but feel not the knife. This singular + condition was not the result of any mental process. The shake annihilated + fear, and allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the beast. This + peculiar state is probably produced in all animals killed by the + carnivora; and if so, is a merciful provision by our benevolent Creator + for lessening the pain of death. Turning round to relieve myself of the + weight, as he had one paw on the back of my head, I saw his eyes directed + to Mebalwe, who was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen + yards. His gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels; the lion + immediately left me, and, attacking Mebalwe, bit his thigh. Another man, + whose life I had saved before, after he had been tossed by a buffalo, + attempted to spear the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He left Mebalwe + and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment the bullets he had + received took effect, and he fell down dead. The whole was the work of a + few moments, and must have been his paroxysms of dying rage. In order to + take out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the following day made a huge + bonfire over the carcass, which was declared to be that of the largest + lion they had ever seen. Besides crunching the bone into splinters, he + left eleven teeth wounds on the upper part of my arm. + </p> + <p> + A wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot wound; it is + generally followed by a great deal of sloughing and discharge, and pains + are felt in the part periodically ever afterward. I had on a tartan jacket + on the occasion, and I believe that it wiped off all the virus from the + teeth that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in this affray have + both suffered from the peculiar pains, while I have escaped with only the + inconvenience of a false joint in my limb. The man whose shoulder was + wounded showed me his wound actually burst forth afresh on the same month + of the following year. This curious point deserves the attention of + inquirers. + </p> + <p> + The different Bechuana tribes are named after certain animals, showing + probably that in former times they were addicted to animal-worship like + the ancient Egyptians. The term Bakatla means "they of the monkey"; + Bakuena, "they of the alligator"; Batlapi, "they of the fish": each tribe + having a superstitious dread of the animal after which it is called. They + also use the word "bina", to dance, in reference to the custom of thus + naming themselves, so that, when you wish to ascertain what tribe they + belong to, you say, "What do you dance?" It would seem as if that had been + a part of the worship of old. A tribe never eats the animal which is its + namesake, using the term "ila", hate or dread, in reference to killing it. + We find traces of many ancient tribes in the country in individual members + of those now extinct, as the Batau, "they of the lion"; the Banoga, "they + of the serpent"; though no such tribes now exist. The use of the personal + pronoun they, Ba-Ma, Wa, Va or Ova, Am-Ki, &c., prevails very + extensively in the names of tribes in Africa. A single individual is + indicated by the terms Mo or Le. Thus Mokwain is a single person of the + Bakwain tribe, and Lekoa is a single white man or Englishman—Makoa + being Englishmen. + </p> + <p> + I attached myself to the tribe called Bakuena or Bakwains, the chief of + which, named Sechele, was then living with his people at a place called + Shokuane. I was from the first struck by his intelligence, and by the + marked manner in which we both felt drawn to each other. As this + remarkable man has not only embraced Christianity, but expounds its + doctrines to his people, I will here give a brief sketch of his career. + </p> + <p> + His great-grandfather Mochoasele was a great traveler, and the first that + ever told the Bakwains of the existence of white men. In his father's + lifetime two white travelers, whom I suppose to have been Dr. Cowan and + Captain Donovan, passed through the country (in 1808), and, descending the + River Limpopo, were, with their party, all cut off by fever. The + rain-makers there, fearing lest their wagons might drive away the rain, + ordered them to be thrown into the river. This is the true account of the + end of that expedition, as related to me by the son of the chief at whose + village they perished. He remembered, when a boy, eating part of one of + the horses, and said it tasted like zebra's flesh. Thus they were not + killed by the Bangwaketse, as reported, for they passed the Bakwains all + well. The Bakwains were then rich in cattle; and as one of the many + evidences of the desiccation of the country, streams are pointed out where + thousands and thousands of cattle formerly drank, but in which water now + never flows, and where a single herd could not find fluid for its support. + </p> + <p> + When Sechele was still a boy, his father, also called Mochoasele, was + murdered by his own people for taking to himself the wives of his rich + under-chiefs. The children being spared, their friends invited Sebituane, + the chief of the Makololo, who was then in those parts, to reinstate them + in the chieftainship. Sebituane surrounded the town of the Bakwains by + night; and just as it began to dawn, his herald proclaimed in a loud voice + that he had come to revenge the death of Mochoasele. This was followed by + Sebituane's people beating loudly on their shields all round the town. The + panic was tremendous, and the rush like that from a theatre on fire, while + the Makololo used their javelins on the terrified Bakwains with a + dexterity which they alone can employ. Sebituane had given orders to his + men to spare the sons of the chief; and one of them, meeting Sechele, put + him in ward by giving him such a blow on the head with a club as to render + him insensible. The usurper was put to death; and Sechele, reinstated in + his chieftainship, felt much attached to Sebituane. The circumstances here + noticed ultimately led me, as will be seen by-and-by, into the new, + well-watered country to which this same Sebituane had preceded me by many + years. + </p> + <p> + Sechele married the daughters of three of his under-chiefs, who had, on + account of their blood relationship, stood by him in his adversity. This + is one of the modes adopted for cementing the allegiance of a tribe. The + government is patriarchal, each man being, by virtue of paternity, chief + of his own children. They build their huts around his, and the greater the + number of children, the more his importance increases. Hence children are + esteemed one of the greatest blessings, and are always treated kindly. + Near the centre of each circle of huts there is a spot called a "kotla", + with a fireplace; here they work, eat, or sit and gossip over the news of + the day. A poor man attaches himself to the kotla of a rich one, and is + considered a child of the latter. An under-chief has a number of these + circles around his; and the collection of kotlas around the great one in + the middle of the whole, that of the principal chief, constitutes the + town. The circle of huts immediately around the kotla of the chief is + composed of the huts of his wives and those of his blood relations. He + attaches the under-chiefs to himself and his government by marrying, as + Sechele did, their daughters, or inducing his brothers to do so. They are + fond of the relationship to great families. If you meet a party of + strangers, and the head man's relationship to some uncle of a certain + chief is not at once proclaimed by his attendants, you may hear him + whispering, "Tell him who I am." This usually involves a counting on the + fingers of a part of his genealogical tree, and ends in the important + announcement that the head of the party is half-cousin to some well-known + ruler. + </p> + <p> + Sechele was thus seated in his chieftainship when I made his acquaintance. + On the first occasion in which I ever attempted to hold a public religious + service, he remarked that it was the custom of his nation, when any new + subject was brought before them, to put questions on it; and he begged me + to allow him to do the same in this case. On expressing my entire + willingness to answer his questions, he inquired if my forefathers knew of + a future judgment. I replied in the affirmative, and began to describe the + scene of the "great white throne, and Him who shall sit on it, from whose + face the heaven and earth shall flee away," &c. He said, "You startle + me: these words make all my bones to shake; I have no more strength in me; + but my forefathers were living at the same time yours were, and how is it + that they did not send them word about these terrible things sooner? They + all passed away into darkness without knowing whither they were going." I + got out of the difficulty by explaining the geographical barriers in the + North, and the gradual spread of knowledge from the South, to which we + first had access by means of ships; and I expressed my belief that, as + Christ had said, the whole world would yet be enlightened by the Gospel. + Pointing to the great Kalahari desert, he said, "You never can cross that + country to the tribes beyond; it is utterly impossible even for us black + men, except in certain seasons, when more than the usual supply of rain + falls, and an extraordinary growth of watermelons follows. Even we who + know the country would certainly perish without them." Reasserting my + belief in the words of Christ, we parted; and it will be seen farther on + that Sechele himself assisted me in crossing that desert which had + previously proved an insurmountable barrier to so many adventurers. + </p> + <p> + As soon as he had an opportunity of learning, he set himself to read with + such close application that, from being comparatively thin, the effect of + having been fond of the chase, he became quite corpulent from want of + exercise. Mr. Oswell gave him his first lesson in figures, and he acquired + the alphabet on the first day of my residence at Chonuane. He was by no + means an ordinary specimen of the people, for I never went into the town + but I was pressed to hear him read some chapters of the Bible. Isaiah was + a great favorite with him; and he was wont to use the same phrase nearly + which the professor of Greek at Glasgow, Sir D. K. Sandford, once used + respecting the Apostle Paul, when reading his speeches in the Acts: "He + was a fine fellow, that Paul!" "He was a fine man, that Isaiah; he knew + how to speak." Sechele invariably offered me something to eat on every + occasion of my visiting him. + </p> + <p> + Seeing me anxious that his people should believe the words of Christ, he + once said, "Do you imagine these people will ever believe by your merely + talking to them? I can make them do nothing except by thrashing them; and + if you like, I shall call my head men, and with our litupa (whips of + rhinoceros hide) we will soon make them all believe together." The idea of + using entreaty and persuasion to subjects to become Christians—whose + opinion on no other matter would he condescend to ask—was especially + surprising to him. He considered that they ought only to be too happy to + embrace Christianity at his command. During the space of two years and a + half he continued to profess to his people his full conviction of the + truth of Christianity; and in all discussions on the subject he took that + side, acting at the same time in an upright manner in all the relations of + life. He felt the difficulties of his situation long before I did, and + often said, "Oh, I wish you had come to this country before I became + entangled in the meshes of our customs!" In fact, he could not get rid of + his superfluous wives, without appearing to be ungrateful to their + parents, who had done so much for him in his adversity. + </p> + <p> + In the hope that others would be induced to join him in his attachment to + Christianity, he asked me to begin family worship with him in his house. I + did so; and by-and-by was surprised to hear how well he conducted the + prayer in his own simple and beautiful style, for he was quite a master of + his own language. At this time we were suffering from the effects of a + drought, which will be described further on, and none except his family, + whom he ordered to attend, came near his meeting. "In former times," said + he, "when a chief was fond of hunting, all his people got dogs, and became + fond of hunting too. If he was fond of dancing or music, all showed a + liking to these amusements too. If the chief loved beer, they all rejoiced + in strong drink. But in this case it is different. I love the Word of God, + and not one of my brethren will join me." One reason why we had no + volunteer hypocrites was the hunger from drought, which was associated in + their minds with the presence of Christian instruction; and hypocrisy is + not prone to profess a creed which seems to insure an empty stomach. + </p> + <p> + Sechele continued to make a consistent profession for about three years; + and perceiving at last some of the difficulties of his case, and also + feeling compassion for the poor women, who were by far the best of our + scholars, I had no desire that he should be in any hurry to make a full + profession by baptism, and putting away all his wives but one. His + principal wife, too, was about the most unlikely subject in the tribe ever + to become any thing else than an out-and-out greasy disciple of the old + school. She has since become greatly altered, I hear, for the better; but + again and again have I seen Sechele send her out of church to put her gown + on, and away she would go with her lips shot out, the very picture of + unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions. + </p> + <p> + When he at last applied for baptism, I simply asked him how he, having the + Bible in his hand, and able to read it, thought he ought to act. He went + home, gave each of his superfluous wives new clothing, and all his own + goods, which they had been accustomed to keep in their huts for him, and + sent them to their parents with an intimation that he had no fault to find + with them, but that in parting with them he wished to follow the will of + God. On the day on which he and his children were baptized, great numbers + came to see the ceremony. Some thought, from a stupid calumny circulated + by enemies to Christianity in the south, that the converts would be made + to drink an infusion of "dead men's brains", and were astonished to find + that water only was used at baptism. Seeing several of the old men + actually in tears during the service, I asked them afterward the cause of + their weeping; they were crying to see their father, as the Scotch remark + over a case of suicide, "SO FAR LEFT TO HIMSELF". They seemed to think + that I had thrown the glamour over him, and that he had become mine. Here + commenced an opposition which we had not previously experienced. All the + friends of the divorced wives became the opponents of our religion. The + attendance at school and church diminished to very few besides the chief's + own family. They all treated us still with respectful kindness, but to + Sechele himself they said things which, as he often remarked, had they + ventured on in former times, would have cost them their lives. It was + trying, after all we had done, to see our labors so little appreciated; + but we had sown the good seed, and have no doubt but it will yet spring + up, though we may not live to see the fruits. + </p> + <p> + Leaving this sketch of the chief, I proceed to give an equally rapid one + of our dealing with his people, the Bakena, or Bakwains. A small piece of + land, sufficient for a garden, was purchased when we first went to live + with them, though that was scarcely necessary in a country where the idea + of buying land was quite new. It was expected that a request for a + suitable spot would have been made, and that we should have proceeded to + occupy it as any other member of the tribe would. But we explained to them + that we wished to avoid any cause of future dispute when land had become + more valuable; or when a foolish chief began to reign, and we had erected + large or expensive buildings, he might wish to claim the whole. These + reasons were considered satisfactory. About 5 Pounds worth of goods were + given for a piece of land, and an arrangement was come to that a similar + piece should be allotted to any other missionary, at any other place to + which the tribe might remove. The particulars of the sale sounded + strangely in the ears of the tribe, but were nevertheless readily agreed + to. + </p> + <p> + In our relations with this people we were simply strangers exercising no + authority or control whatever. Our influence depended entirely on + persuasion; and having taught them by kind conversation as well as by + public instruction, I expected them to do what their own sense of right + and wrong dictated. We never wished them to do right merely because it + would be pleasing to us, nor thought ourselves to blame when they did + wrong, although we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect. We + saw that our teaching did good to the general mind of the people by + bringing new and better motives into play. Five instances are positively + known to me in which, by our influence on public opinion, war was + prevented; and where, in individual cases, we failed, the people did no + worse than they did before we came into the country. In general they were + slow, like all the African people hereafter to be described, in coming to + a decision on religious subjects; but in questions affecting their worldly + affairs they were keenly alive to their own interests. They might be + called stupid in matters which had not come within the sphere of their + observation, but in other things they showed more intelligence than is to + be met with in our own uneducated peasantry. They are remarkably accurate + in their knowledge of cattle, sheep, and goats, knowing exactly the kind + of pasturage suited to each; and they select with great judgment the + varieties of soil best suited to different kinds of grain. They are also + familiar with the habits of wild animals, and in general are well up in + the maxims which embody their ideas of political wisdom. + </p> + <p> + The place where we first settled with the Bakwains is called Chonuane, and + it happened to be visited, during the first year of our residence there, + by one of those droughts which occur from time to time in even the most + favored districts of Africa. + </p> + <p> + The belief in the gift or power of RAIN-MAKING is one of the most + deeply-rooted articles of faith in this country. The chief Sechele was + himself a noted rain-doctor, and believed in it implicitly. He has often + assured me that he found it more difficult to give up his faith in that + than in any thing else which Christianity required him to abjure. I + pointed out to him that the only feasible way of watering the gardens was + to select some good, never-failing river, make a canal, and irrigate the + adjacent lands. This suggestion was immediately adopted, and soon the + whole tribe was on the move to the Kolobeng, a stream about forty miles + distant. The experiment succeeded admirably during the first year. The + Bakwains made the canal and dam in exchange for my labor in assisting to + build a square house for their chief. They also built their own school + under my superintendence. Our house at the River Kolobeng, which gave a + name to the settlement, was the third which I had reared with my own + hands. A native smith taught me to weld iron; and having improved by + scraps of information in that line from Mr. Moffat, and also in + carpentering and gardening, I was becoming handy at almost any trade, + besides doctoring and preaching; and as my wife could make candles, soap, + and clothes, we came nearly up to what may be considered as indispensable + in the accomplishments of a missionary family in Central Africa, namely, + the husband to be a jack-of-all-trades without doors, and the wife a + maid-of-all-work within. But in our second year again no rain fell. In the + third the same extraordinary drought followed. Indeed, not ten inches of + water fell during these two years, and the Kolobeng ran dry; so many fish + were killed that the hyaenas from the whole country round collected to the + feast, and were unable to finish the putrid masses. A large old alligator, + which had never been known to commit any depredations, was found left high + and dry in the mud among the victims. The fourth year was equally + unpropitious, the fall of rain being insufficient to bring the grain to + maturity. Nothing could be more trying. We dug down in the bed of the + river deeper and deeper as the water receded, striving to get a little to + keep the fruit-trees alive for better times, but in vain. Needles lying + out of doors for months did not rust; and a mixture of sulphuric acid and + water, used in a galvanic battery, parted with all its water to the air, + instead of imbibing more from it, as it would have done in England. The + leaves of indigenous trees were all drooping, soft, and shriveled, though + not dead; and those of the mimosae were closed at midday, the same as they + are at night. In the midst of this dreary drought, it was wonderful to see + those tiny creatures, the ants, running about with their accustomed + vivacity. I put the bulb of a thermometer three inches under the soil, in + the sun, at midday, and found the mercury to stand at 132 Deg. to 134 + Deg.; and if certain kinds of beetles were placed on the surface, they ran + about a few seconds and expired. But this broiling heat only augmented the + activity of the long-legged black ants: they never tire; their organs of + motion seem endowed with the same power as is ascribed by physiologists to + the muscles of the human heart, by which that part of the frame never + becomes fatigued, and which may be imparted to all our bodily organs in + that higher sphere to which we fondly hope to rise. Where do these ants + get their moisture? Our house was built on a hard ferruginous + conglomerate, in order to be out of the way of the white ant, but they + came in despite the precaution; and not only were they, in this sultry + weather, able individually to moisten soil to the consistency of mortar + for the formation of galleries, which, in their way of working, is done by + night (so that they are screened from the observation of birds by day in + passing and repassing toward any vegetable matter they may wish to + devour), but, when their inner chambers were laid open, these were also + surprisingly humid. Yet there was no dew, and, the house being placed on a + rock, they could have no subterranean passage to the bed of the river, + which ran about three hundred yards below the hill. Can it be that they + have the power of combining the oxygen and hydrogen of their vegetable + food by vital force so as to form water?* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * When we come to Angola, I shall describe an insect there + which distills several pints of water every night. +</pre> + <p> + Rain, however, would not fall. The Bakwains believed that I had bound + Sechele with some magic spell, and I received deputations, in the + evenings, of the old counselors, entreating me to allow him to make only a + few showers: "The corn will die if you refuse, and we shall become + scattered. Only let him make rain this once, and we shall all, men, women, + and children, come to the school, and sing and pray as long as you + please." It was in vain to protest that I wished Sechele to act just + according to his own ideas of what was right, as he found the law laid + down in the Bible, and it was distressing to appear hard-hearted to them. + The clouds often collected promisingly over us, and rolling thunder seemed + to portend refreshing showers, but next morning the sun would rise in a + clear, cloudless sky; indeed, even these lowering appearances were less + frequent by far than days of sunshine are in London. + </p> + <p> + The natives, finding it irksome to sit and wait helplessly until God gives + them rain from heaven, entertain the more comfortable idea that they can + help themselves by a variety of preparations, such as charcoal made of + burned bats, inspissated renal deposit of the mountain cony—'Hyrax + capensis'—(which, by the way, is used, in the form of pills, as a + good antispasmodic, under the name of "stone-sweat"*), the internal parts + of different animals—as jackals' livers, baboons' and lions' hearts, + and hairy calculi from the bowels of old cows—serpents' skins and + vertebrae, and every kind of tuber, bulb, root, and plant to be found in + the country. Although you disbelieve their efficacy in charming the clouds + to pour out their refreshing treasures, yet, conscious that civility is + useful every where, you kindly state that you think they are mistaken as + to their power. The rain-doctor selects a particular bulbous root, pounds + it, and administers a cold infusion to a sheep, which in five minutes + afterward expires in convulsions. Part of the same bulb is converted into + smoke, and ascends toward the sky; rain follows in a day or two. The + inference is obvious. Were we as much harassed by droughts, the logic + would be irresistible in England in 1857. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The name arises from its being always voided on one spot, + in the manner practiced by others of the rhinocerontine family; + and, by the action of the sun, it becomes a black, pitchy substance. +</pre> + <p> + As the Bakwains believed that there must be some connection between the + presence of "God's Word" in their town and these successive and + distressing droughts, they looked with no good will at the church bell, + but still they invariably treated us with kindness and respect. I am not + aware of ever having had an enemy in the tribe. The only avowed cause of + dislike was expressed by a very influential and sensible man, the uncle of + Sechele. "We like you as well as if you had been born among us; you are + the only white man we can become familiar with (thoaela); but we wish you + to give up that everlasting preaching and praying; we can not become + familiar with that at all. You see we never get rain, while those tribes + who never pray as we do obtain abundance." This was a fact; and we often + saw it raining on the hills ten miles off, while it would not look at us + "even with one eye". If the Prince of the power of the air had no hand in + scorching us up, I fear I often gave him the credit of doing so. + </p> + <p> + As for the rain-makers, they carried the sympathies of the people along + with them, and not without reason. With the following arguments they were + all acquainted, and in order to understand their force, we must place + ourselves in their position, and believe, as they do, that all medicines + act by a mysterious charm. The term for cure may be translated "charm" + ('alaha'). + </p> + <p> + MEDICAL DOCTOR. Hail, friend! How very many medicines you have about you + this morning! Why, you have every medicine in the country here. + </p> + <p> + RAIN DOCTOR. Very true, my friend; and I ought; for the whole country + needs the rain which I am making. + </p> + <p> + M. D. So you really believe that you can command the clouds? I think that + can be done by God alone. + </p> + <p> + R. D. We both believe the very same thing. It is God that makes the rain, + but I pray to him by means of these medicines, and, the rain coming, of + course it is then mine. It was I who made it for the Bakwains for many + years, when they were at Shokuane; through my wisdom, too, their women + became fat and shining. Ask them; they will tell you the same as I do. + </p> + <p> + M. D. But we are distinctly told in the parting words of our Savior that + we can pray to God acceptably in his name alone, and not by means of + medicines. + </p> + <p> + R. D. Truly! but God told us differently. He made black men first, and did + not love us as he did the white men. He made you beautiful, and gave you + clothing, and guns, and gunpowder, and horses, and wagons, and many other + things about which we know nothing. But toward us he had no heart. He gave + us nothing except the assegai, and cattle, and rain-making; and he did not + give us hearts like yours. We never love each other. Other tribes place + medicines about our country to prevent the rain, so that we may be + dispersed by hunger, and go to them, and augment their power. We must + dissolve their charms by our medicines. God has given us one little thing, + which you know nothing of. He has given us the knowledge of certain + medicines by which we can make rain. WE do not despise those things which + you possess, though we are ignorant of them. We don't understand your + book, yet we don't despise it. YOU ought not to despise our little + knowledge, though you are ignorant of it. + </p> + <p> + M. D. I don't despise what I am ignorant of; I only think you are mistaken + in saying that you have medicines which can influence the rain at all. + </p> + <p> + R. D. That's just the way people speak when they talk on a subject of + which they have no knowledge. When we first opened our eyes, we found our + forefathers making rain, and we follow in their footsteps. You, who send + to Kuruman for corn, and irrigate your garden, may do without rain; WE can + not manage in that way. If we had no rain, the cattle would have no + pasture, the cows give no milk, our children become lean and die, our + wives run away to other tribes who do make rain and have corn, and the + whole tribe become dispersed and lost; our fire would go out. + </p> + <p> + M. D. I quite agree with you as to the value of the rain; but you can not + charm the clouds by medicines. You wait till you see the clouds come, then + you use your medicines, and take the credit which belongs to God only. + </p> + <p> + R. D. I use my medicines, and you employ yours; we are both doctors, and + doctors are not deceivers. You give a patient medicine. Sometimes God is + pleased to heal him by means of your medicine; sometimes not—he + dies. When he is cured, you take the credit of what God does. I do the + same. Sometimes God grants us rain, sometimes not. When he does, we take + the credit of the charm. When a patient dies, you don't give up trust in + your medicine, neither do I when rain fails. If you wish me to leave off + my medicines, why continue your own? + </p> + <p> + M. D. I give medicine to living creatures within my reach, and can see the + effects, though no cure follows; you pretend to charm the clouds, which + are so far above us that your medicines never reach them. The clouds + usually lie in one direction, and your smoke goes in another. God alone + can command the clouds. Only try and wait patiently; God will give us rain + without your medicines. + </p> + <p> + R. D. Mahala-ma-kapa-a-a!! Well, I always thought white men were wise till + this morning. Who ever thought of making trial of starvation? Is death + pleasant, then? + </p> + <p> + M. D. Could you make it rain on one spot and not on another? + </p> + <p> + R. D. I wouldn't think of trying. I like to see the whole country green, + and all the people glad; the women clapping their hands, and giving me + their ornaments for thankfulness, and lullilooing for joy. + </p> + <p> + M. D. I think you deceive both them and yourself. + </p> + <p> + R. D. Well, then, there is a pair of us (meaning both are rogues). + </p> + <p> + The above is only a specimen of their way of reasoning, in which, when the + language is well understood, they are perceived to be remarkably acute. + These arguments are generally known, and I never succeeded in convincing a + single individual of their fallacy, though I tried to do so in every way I + could think of. Their faith in medicines as charms is unbounded. The + general effect of argument is to produce the impression that you are not + anxious for rain at all; and it is very undesirable to allow the idea to + spread that you do not take a generous interest in their welfare. An angry + opponent of rain-making in a tribe would be looked upon as were some Greek + merchants in England during the Russian war. + </p> + <p> + The conduct of the people during this long-continued drought was + remarkably good. The women parted with most of their ornaments to purchase + corn from more fortunate tribes. The children scoured the country in + search of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain life, and the men + engaged in hunting. Very great numbers of the large game, buffaloes, + zebras, giraffes, tsessebes, kamas or hartebeests, kokongs or gnus, + pallahs, rhinoceroses, etc., congregated at some fountains near Kolobeng, + and the trap called "hopo" was constructed, in the lands adjacent, for + their destruction. The hopo consists of two hedges in the form of the + letter V, which are very high and thick near the angle. Instead of the + hedges being joined there, they are made to form a lane of about fifty + yards in length, at the extremity of which a pit is formed, six or eight + feet deep, and about twelve or fifteen in breadth and length. Trunks of + trees are laid across the margins of the pit, and more especially over + that nearest the lane where the animals are expected to leap in, and over + that farthest from the lane where it is supposed they will attempt to + escape after they are in. The trees form an overlapping border, and render + escape almost impossible. The whole is carefully decked with short green + rushes, making the pit like a concealed pitfall. As the hedges are + frequently about a mile long, and about as much apart at their + extremities, a tribe making a circle three or four miles round the country + adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up, are almost sure to + inclose a large body of game. Driving it up with shouts to the narrow part + of the hopo, men secreted there throw their javelins into the affrighted + herds, and on the animals rush to the opening presented at the converging + hedges, and into the pit, till that is full of a living mass. Some escape + by running over the others, as a Smithfield market-dog does over the + sheep's backs. It is a frightful scene. The men, wild with excitement, + spear the lovely animals with mad delight; others of the poor creatures, + borne down by the weight of their dead and dying companions, every now and + then make the whole mass heave in their smothering agonies. + </p> + <p> + The Bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy head of large game at + the different hopos in a single week; and as every one, both rich and + poor, partook of the prey, the meat counteracted the bad effects of an + exclusively vegetable diet. When the poor, who had no salt, were forced to + live entirely on roots, they were often troubled with indigestion. Such + cases we had frequent opportunities of seeing at other times, for, the + district being destitute of salt, the rich alone could afford to buy it. + The native doctors, aware of the cause of the malady, usually prescribed + some of that ingredient with their medicines. The doctors themselves had + none, so the poor resorted to us for aid. We took the hint, and henceforth + cured the disease by giving a teaspoonful of salt, minus the other + remedies. Either milk or meat had the same effect, though not so rapidly + as salt. Long afterward, when I was myself deprived of salt for four + months, at two distinct periods, I felt no desire for that condiment, but + I was plagued by very great longing for the above articles of food. This + continued as long as I was confined to an exclusively vegetable diet, and + when I procured a meal of flesh, though boiled in perfectly fresh + rain-water, it tasted as pleasantly saltish as if slightly impregnated + with the condiment. Milk or meat, obtained in however small quantities, + removed entirely the excessive longing and dreaming about roasted ribs of + fat oxen, and bowls of cool thick milk gurgling forth from the big-bellied + calabashes; and I could then understand the thankfulness to Mrs. L. often + expressed by poor Bakwain women, in the interesting condition, for a very + little of either. + </p> + <p> + In addition to other adverse influences, the general uncertainty, though + not absolute want of food, and the necessity of frequent absence for the + purpose of either hunting game or collecting roots and fruits, proved a + serious barrier to the progress of the people in knowledge. Our own + education in England is carried on at the comfortable breakfast and dinner + table, and by the cosy fire, as well as in the church and school. Few + English people with stomachs painfully empty would be decorous at church + any more than they are when these organs are overcharged. Ragged schools + would have been a failure had not the teachers wisely provided food for + the body as well as food for the mind; and not only must we show a + friendly interest in the bodily comfort of the objects of our sympathy as + a Christian duty, but we can no more hope for healthy feelings among the + poor, either at home or abroad, without feeding them into them, than we + can hope to see an ordinary working-bee reared into a queen-mother by the + ordinary food of the hive. + </p> + <p> + Sending the Gospel to the heathen must, if this view be correct, include + much more than is implied in the usual picture of a missionary, namely, a + man going about with a Bible under his arm. The promotion of commerce + ought to be specially attended to, as this, more speedily than any thing + else, demolishes that sense of isolation which heathenism engenders, and + makes the tribes feel themselves mutually dependent on, and mutually + beneficial to each other. With a view to this, the missionaries at Kuruman + got permission from the government for a trader to reside at the station, + and a considerable trade has been the result; the trader himself has + become rich enough to retire with a competence. Those laws which still + prevent free commercial intercourse among the civilized nations seem to be + nothing else but the remains of our own heathenism. My observations on + this subject make me extremely desirous to promote the preparation of the + raw materials of European manufactures in Africa, for by that means we may + not only put a stop to the slave-trade, but introduce the negro family + into the body corporate of nations, no one member of which can suffer + without the others suffering with it. Success in this, in both Eastern and + Western Africa, would lead, in the course of time, to a much larger + diffusion of the blessings of civilization than efforts exclusively + spiritual and educational confined to any one small tribe. These, however, + it would of course be extremely desirable to carry on at the same time at + large central and healthy stations, for neither civilization nor + Christianity can be promoted alone. In fact, they are inseparable. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 2. + </h2> + <p> + The Boers—Their Treatment of the Natives—Seizure of native + Children for Slaves—English Traders—Alarm of the Boers—Native + Espionage—The Tale of the Cannon—The Boers threaten Sechele—In + violation of Treaty, they stop English Traders and expel Missionaries—They + attack the Bakwains—Their Mode of Fighting—The Natives killed + and the School-children carried into Slavery—Destruction of English + Property—African Housebuilding and Housekeeping—Mode of + Spending the Day—Scarcity of Food—Locusts—Edible Frogs—Scavenger + Beetle—Continued Hostility of the Boers—The Journey north—Preparations—Fellow-travelers—The + Kalahari Desert— Vegetation—Watermelons—The Inhabitants—The + Bushmen—Their nomad Mode of Life—Appearance—The + Bakalahari—Their Love for Agriculture and for domestic Animals—Timid + Character—Mode of obtaining Water—Female Water-suckers—The + Desert—Water hidden. + </p> + <p> + Another adverse influence with which the mission had to contend was the + vicinity of the Boers of the Cashan Mountains, otherwise named + "Magaliesberg". These are not to be counfounded with the Cape colonists, + who sometimes pass by the name. The word Boer simply means "farmer", and + is not synonymous with our word boor. Indeed, to the Boers generally the + latter term would be quite inappropriate, for they are a sober, + industrious, and most hospitable body of peasantry. Those, however, who + have fled from English law on various pretexts, and have been joined by + English deserters and every other variety of bad character in their + distant localities, are unfortunately of a very different stamp. The great + objection many of the Boers had, and still have, to English law, is that + it makes no distinction between black men and white. They felt aggrieved + by their supposed losses in the emancipation of their Hottentot slaves, + and determined to erect themselves into a republic, in which they might + pursue, without molestation, the "proper treatment of the blacks". It is + almost needless to add that the "proper treatment" has always contained in + it the essential element of slavery, namely, compulsory unpaid labor. + </p> + <p> + One section of this body, under the late Mr. Hendrick Potgeiter, + penetrated the interior as far as the Cashan Mountains, whence a Zulu or + Caffre chief, named Mosilikatze, had been expelled by the well-known + Caffre Dingaan; and a glad welcome was given them by the Bechuana tribes, + who had just escaped the hard sway of that cruel chieftain. They came with + the prestige of white men and deliverers; but the Bechuanas soon found, as + they expressed it, "that Mosilikatze was cruel to his enemies, and kind to + those he conquered; but that the Boers destroyed their enemies, and made + slaves of their friends." The tribes who still retain the semblance of + independence are forced to perform all the labor of the fields, such as + manuring the land, weeding, reaping, building, making dams and canals, and + at the same time to support themselves. I have myself been an eye-witness + of Boers coming to a village, and, according to their usual custom, + demanding twenty or thirty women to weed their gardens, and have seen + these women proceed to the scene of unrequited toil, carrying their own + food on their heads, their children on their backs, and instruments of + labor on their shoulders. Nor have the Boers any wish to conceal the + meanness of thus employing unpaid labor; on the contrary, every one of + them, from Mr. Potgeiter and Mr. Gert Krieger, the commandants, downward, + lauded his own humanity and justice in making such an equitable + regulation. "We make the people work for us, in consideration of allowing + them to live in our country." + </p> + <p> + I can appeal to the Commandant Krieger if the foregoing is not a fair and + impartial statement of the views of himself and his people. I am sensible + of no mental bias toward or against these Boers; and during the several + journeys I made to the poor enslaved tribes, I never avoided the whites, + but tried to cure and did administer remedies to their sick, without money + and without price. It is due to them to state that I was invariably + treated with respect; but it is most unfortunate that they should have + been left by their own Church for so many years to deteriorate and become + as degraded as the blacks, whom the stupid prejudice against color leads + them to detest. + </p> + <p> + This new species of slavery which they have adopted serves to supply the + lack of field-labor only. The demand for domestic servants must be met by + forays on tribes which have good supplies of cattle. The Portuguese can + quote instances in which blacks become so degraded by the love of strong + drink as actually to sell themselves; but never in any one case, within + the memory of man, has a Bechuana chief sold any of his people, or a + Bechuana man his child. Hence the necessity for a foray to seize children. + And those individual Boers who would not engage in it for the sake of + slaves can seldom resist the two-fold plea of a well-told story of an + intended uprising of the devoted tribe, and the prospect of handsome pay + in the division of the captured cattle besides. + </p> + <p> + It is difficult for a person in a civilized country to conceive that any + body of men possessing the common attributes of humanity (and these Boers + are by no means destitute of the better feelings of our nature) should + with one accord set out, after loading their own wives and children with + caresses, and proceed to shoot down in cold blood men and women, of a + different color, it is true, but possessed of domestic feelings and + affections equal to their own. I saw and conversed with children in the + houses of Boers who had, by their own and their masters' account, been + captured, and in several instances I traced the parents of these + unfortunates, though the plan approved by the long-headed among the + burghers is to take children so young that they soon forget their parents + and their native language also. It was long before I could give credit to + the tales of bloodshed told by native witnesses, and had I received no + other testimony but theirs I should probably have continued skeptical to + this day as to the truth of the accounts; but when I found the Boers + themselves, some bewailing and denouncing, others glorying in the bloody + scenes in which they had been themselves the actors, I was compelled to + admit the validity of the testimony, and try to account for the cruel + anomaly. They are all traditionally religious, tracing their descent from + some of the best men (Huguenots and Dutch) the world ever saw. Hence they + claim to themselves the title of "Christians", and all the colored race + are "black property" or "creatures". They being the chosen people of God, + the heathen are given to them for an inheritance, and they are the rod of + divine vengeance on the heathen, as were the Jews of old. Living in the + midst of a native population much larger than themselves, and at fountains + removed many miles from each other, they feel somewhat in the same + insecure position as do the Americans in the Southern States. The first + question put by them to strangers is respecting peace; and when they + receive reports from disaffected or envious natives against any tribe, the + case assumes all the appearance and proportions of a regular insurrection. + Severe measures then appear to the most mildly disposed among them as + imperatively called for, and, however bloody the massacre that follows, no + qualms of conscience ensue: it is a dire necessity for the sake of peace. + Indeed, the late Mr. Hendrick Potgeiter most devoutly believed himself to + be the great peacemaker of the country. + </p> + <p> + But how is it that the natives, being so vastly superior in numbers to the + Boers, do not rise and annihilate them? The people among whom they live + are Bechuanas, not Caffres, though no one would ever learn that + distinction from a Boer; and history does not contain one single instance + in which the Bechuanas, even those of them who possess fire-arms, have + attacked either the Boers or the English. If there is such an instance, I + am certain it is not generally known, either beyond or in the Cape Colony. + They have defended themselves when attacked, as in the case of Sechele, + but have never engaged in offensive war with Europeans. We have a very + different tale to tell of the Caffres, and the difference has always been + so evident to these border Boers that, ever since those "magnificent + savages"* obtained possession of fire-arms, not one Boer has ever + attempted to settle in Caffreland, or even face them as an enemy in the + field. The Boers have generally manifested a marked antipathy to any thing + but "long-shot" warfare, and, sidling away in their emigrations toward the + more effeminate Bechuanas, have left their quarrels with the Caffres to be + settled by the English, and their wars to be paid for by English gold. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The "United Service Journal" so styles them. +</pre> + <p> + The Bakwains at Kolobeng had the spectacle of various tribes enslaved + before their eyes—the Bakatla, the Batlokua, the Bahukeng, the + Bamosetla, and two other tribes of Bakwains were all groaning under the + oppression of unrequited labor. This would not have been felt as so great + an evil but that the young men of those tribes, anxious to obtain cattle, + the only means of rising to respectability and importance among their own + people, were in the habit of sallying forth, like our Irish and Highland + reapers, to procure work in the Cape Colony. After laboring there three or + four years, in building stone dikes and dams for the Dutch farmers, they + were well content if at the end of that time they could return with as + many cows. On presenting one to their chief, they ranked as respectable + men in the tribe ever afterward. These volunteers were highly esteemed + among the Dutch, under the name of Mantatees. They were paid at the rate + of one shilling a day and a large loaf of bread between six of them. + Numbers of them, who had formerly seen me about twelve hundred miles + inland from the Cape, recognized me with the loud laughter of joy when I + was passing them at their work in the Roggefelt and Bokkefelt, within a + few days of Cape Town. I conversed with them and with elders of the Dutch + Church, for whom they were working, and found that the system was + thoroughly satisfactory to both parties. I do not believe that there is + one Boer, in the Cashan or Magaliesberg country, who would deny that a law + was made, in consequence of this labor passing to the colony, to deprive + these laborers of their hardly-earned cattle, for the very cogent reason + that, "if they want to work, let them work for us their masters," though + boasting that in their case it would not be paid for. I can never cease to + be most unfeignedly thankful that I was not born in a land of slaves. No + one can understand the effect of the unutterable meanness of the + slave-system on the minds of those who, but for the strange obliquity + which prevents them from feeling the degradation of not being gentlemen + enough to pay for services rendered, would be equal in virtue to + ourselves. Fraud becomes as natural to them as "paying one's way" is to + the rest of mankind. + </p> + <p> + Wherever a missionary lives, traders are sure to come; they are mutually + dependent, and each aids in the work of the other; but experience shows + that the two employments can not very well be combined in the same person. + Such a combination would not be morally wrong, for nothing would be more + fair, and apostolical too, than that the man who devotes his time to the + spiritual welfare of a people should derive temporal advantage from + upright commerce, which traders, who aim exclusively at their own + enrichment, modestly imagine ought to be left to them. But, though it is + right for missionaries to trade, the present system of missions renders it + inexpedient to spend time in so doing. No missionary with whom I ever came + in contact, traded; and while the traders, whom we introduced and rendered + secure in the country, waxed rich, the missionaries have invariably + remained poor, and have died so. The Jesuits, in Africa at least, were + wiser in their generation than we; theirs were large, influential + communities, proceeding on the system of turning the abilities of every + brother into that channel in which he was most likely to excel; one, fond + of natural history, was allowed to follow his bent; another, fond of + literature, found leisure to pursue his studies; and he who was great in + barter was sent in search of ivory and gold-dust; so that while in the + course of performing the religious acts of his mission to distant tribes, + he found the means of aiding effectually the brethren whom he had left in + the central settlement.* We Protestants, with the comfortable conviction + of superiority, have sent out missionaries with a bare subsistence only, + and are unsparing in our laudations of some for not being worldly-minded + whom our niggardliness made to live as did the prodigal son. I do not + speak of myself, nor need I to do so, but for that very reason I feel at + liberty to interpose a word in behalf of others. I have before my mind at + this moment facts and instances which warrant my putting the case in this + way: The command to "go into all the world and preach the Gospel to every + creature" must be obeyed by Christians either personally or by substitute. + Now it is quite possible to find men whose love for the heathen and + devotion to the work will make them ready to go forth on the terms "bare + subsistence", but what can be thought of the justice, to say nothing of + the generosity, of Christians and churches who not only work their + substitutes at the lowest terms, but regard what they give as charity! The + matter is the more grave in respect to the Protestant missionary, who may + have a wife and family. The fact is, there are many cases in which it is + right, virtuous, and praiseworthy for a man to sacrifice every thing for a + great object, but in which it would be very wrong for others, interested + in the object as much as he, to suffer or accept the sacrifice, if they + can prevent it. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The Dutch clergy, too, are not wanting in worldly wisdom. A + fountain is bought, and the lands which it can irrigate + parceled out and let to villagers. As they increase in + numbers, the rents rise and the church becomes rich. With 200 + Pounds per annum in addition from government, the salary + amounts to 400 or 500 Pounds a year. The clergymen then preach + abstinence from politics as a Christian duty. It is quite + clear that, with 400 Pounds a year, but little else except + pure spirituality is required. +</pre> + <p> + English traders sold those articles which the Boers most dread, namely, + arms and ammunition; and when the number of guns amounted to five, so much + alarm was excited among our neighbors that an expedition of several + hundred Boers was seriously planned to deprive the Bakwains of their guns. + Knowing that the latter would rather have fled to the Kalahari Desert than + deliver up their weapons and become slaves, I proceeded to the commandant, + Mr. Gert Krieger, and, representing the evils of any such expedition, + prevailed upon him to defer it; but that point being granted, the Boer + wished to gain another, which was that I should act as a spy over the + Bakwains. + </p> + <p> + I explained the impossibility of my complying with his wish, even though + my principles as an Englishman had not stood in the way, by referring to + an instance in which Sechele had gone with his whole force to punish an + under-chief without my knowledge. This man, whose name was Kake, rebelled, + and was led on in his rebellion by his father-in-law, who had been + regicide in the case of Sechele's father. Several of those who remained + faithful to that chief were maltreated by Kake while passing to the Desert + in search of skins. We had just come to live with the Bakwains when this + happened, and Sechele consulted me. I advised mild measures, but the + messengers he sent to Kake were taunted with the words, "He only pretends + to wish to follow the advice of the teacher: Sechele is a coward; let him + come and fight if he dare." The next time the offense was repeated, + Sechele told me he was going to hunt elephants; and as I knew the system + of espionage which prevails among all the tribes, I never made inquiries + that would convey the opinion that I distrusted them. I gave credit to his + statement. He asked the loan of a black-metal pot to cook with, as theirs + of pottery are brittle. I gave it and a handful of salt, and desired him + to send back two tit-bits, the proboscis and fore-foot of the elephant. He + set off, and I heard nothing more until we saw the Bakwains carrying home + their wounded, and heard some of the women uttering the loud wail of + sorrow for the dead, and others pealing forth the clear scream of victory. + It was then clear that Sechele had attacked and driven away the rebel. + </p> + <p> + Mentioning this to the commandant in proof of the impossibility of + granting his request, I had soon an example how quickly a story can grow + among idle people. The five guns were, within one month, multiplied into a + tale of five hundred, and the cooking-pot, now in a museum at Cape Town, + was magnified into a cannon; "I had myself confessed to the loan." Where + the five hundred guns came from, it was easy to divine; for, knowing that + I used a sextant, my connection with government was a thing of course; + and, as I must know all her majesty's counsels, I was questioned on the + subject of the indistinct rumors which had reached them of Lord Rosse's + telescope. "What right has your government to set up that large glass at + the Cape to look after us behind the Cashan Mountains?" + </p> + <p> + Many of the Boers visited us afterward at Kolobeng, some for medical + advice, and others to trade in those very articles which their own laws + and policy forbid. When I happened to stumble upon any of them in the + town, with his muskets and powder displayed, he would begin an apology, on + the ground that he was a poor man, etc., which I always cut short by + frankly saying that I had nothing to do with either the Boers or their + laws. Many attempts were made during these visits to elicit the truth + about the guns and cannon; and ignorant of the system of espionage which + prevails, eager inquiries were made by them among those who could jabber a + little Dutch. It is noticeable that the system of espionage is as well + developed among the savage tribes as in Austria or Russia. It is a proof + of barbarism. Every man in a tribe feels himself bound to tell the chief + every thing that comes to his knowledge, and, when questioned by a + stranger, either gives answers which exhibit the utmost stupidity, or such + as he knows will be agreeable to his chief. I believe that in this way + have arisen tales of their inability to count more than ten, as was + asserted of the Bechuanas about the very time when Sechele's father + counted out one thousand head of cattle as a beginning of the stock of his + young son. + </p> + <p> + In the present case, Sechele, knowing every question put to his people, + asked me how they ought to answer. My reply was, "Tell the truth." Every + one then declared that no cannon existed there; and our friends, judging + the answer by what they themselves would in the circumstances have said, + were confirmed in the opinion that the Bakwains actually possessed + artillery. This was in some degree beneficial to us, inasmuch as fear + prevented any foray in our direction for eight years. During that time no + winter passed without one or two tribes in the East country being + plundered of both cattle and children by the Boers. The plan pursued is + the following: one or two friendly tribes are forced to accompany a party + of mounted Boers, and these expeditions can be got up only in the winter, + when horses may be used without danger of being lost by disease. When they + reach the tribe to be attacked, the friendly natives are ranged in front, + to form, as they say, "a shield"; the Boers then coolly fire over their + heads till the devoted people flee and leave cattle, wives, and children + to the captors. This was done in nine cases during my residence in the + interior, and on no occasion was a drop of Boer's blood shed. News of + these deeds spread quickly among the Bakwains, and letters were repeatedly + sent by the Boers to Sechele, ordering him to come and surrender himself + as their vassal, and stop English traders from proceeding into the country + with fire-arms for sale. But the discovery of Lake Ngami, hereafter to be + described, made the traders come in five-fold greater numbers, and Sechele + replied, "I was made an independent chief and placed here by God, and not + by you. I was never conquered by Mosilikatze, as those tribes whom you + rule over; and the English are my friends. I get every thing I wish from + them. I can not hinder them from going where they like." Those who are old + enough to remember the threatened invasion of our own island may + understand the effect which the constant danger of a Boerish invasion had + on the minds of the Bakwains; but no others can conceive how worrying were + the messages and threats from the endless self-constituted authorities of + the Magaliesberg Boers; and when to all this harassing annoyance was added + the scarcity produced by the drought, we could not wonder at, though we + felt sorry for, their indisposition to receive instruction. + </p> + <p> + The myth of the black pot assumed serious proportions. I attempted to + benefit the tribes among the Boers of Magaliesberg by placing native + teachers at different points. "You must teach the blacks," said Mr. + Hendrick Potgeiter, the commandant in chief, "that they are not equal to + us." Other Boers told me, "I might as well teach the baboons on the rocks + as the Africans," but declined the test which I proposed, namely, to + examine whether they or my native attendants could read best. Two of their + clergymen came to baptize the children of the Boers; so, supposing these + good men would assist me in overcoming the repugnance of their flock to + the education of the blacks, I called on them; but my visit ended in a + 'ruse' practiced by the Boerish commandant, whereby I was led, by + professions of the greatest friendship, to retire to Kolobeng, while a + letter passed me by another way to the other missionaries in the south, + demanding my instant recall "for lending a cannon to their enemies." The + colonial government was also gravely informed that the story was true, and + I came to be looked upon as a most suspicious character in consequence. + </p> + <p> + These notices of the Boers are not intended to produce a sneer at their + ignorance, but to excite the compassion of their friends. They are + perpetually talking about their laws; but practically theirs is only the + law of the strongest. The Bechuanas could never understand the changes + which took place in their commandants. "Why, one can never know who is the + chief among these Boers. Like the Bushmen, they have no king—they + must be the Bushmen of the English." The idea that any tribe of men could + be so senseless as not to have an hereditary chief was so absurd to these + people, that, in order not to appear equally stupid, I was obliged to tell + them that we English were so anxious to preserve the royal blood, that we + had made a young lady our chief. This seemed to them a most convincing + proof of our sound sense. We shall see farther on the confidence my + account of our queen inspired. + </p> + <p> + The Boers, encouraged by the accession of Mr. Pretorius, determined at + last to put a stop to English traders going past Kolobeng, by dispersing + the tribe of Bakwains, and expelling all the missionaries. Sir George + Cathcart proclaimed the independence of the Boers, the best thing that + could have been done had they been between us and the Caffres. A treaty + was entered into with these Boers; an article for the free passage of + Englishmen to the country beyond, and also another, that no slavery should + be allowed in the independent territory, were duly inserted, as expressive + of the views of her majesty's government at home. "But what about the + missionaries?" inquired the Boers. "YOU MAY DO AS YOU PLEASE WITH THEM," + is said to have been the answer of the "Commissioner". This remark, if + uttered at all, was probably made in joke: designing men, however, + circulated it, and caused the general belief in its accuracy which now + prevails all over the country, and doubtless led to the destruction of + three mission stations immediately after. The Boers, four hundred in + number, were sent by the late Mr. Pretorius to attack the Bakwains in + 1852. Boasting that the English had given up all the blacks into their + power, and had agreed to aid them in their subjugation by preventing all + supplies of ammunition from coming into the Bechuana country, they + assaulted the Bakwains, and, besides killing a considerable number of + adults, carried off two hundred of our school children into slavery. The + natives under Sechele defended themselves till the approach of night + enabled them to flee to the mountains; and having in that defense killed a + number of the enemy, the very first ever slain in this country by + Bechuanas, I received the credit of having taught the tribe to kill Boers! + My house, which had stood perfectly secure for years under the protection + of the natives, was plundered in revenge. English gentlemen, who had come + in the footsteps of Mr. Cumming to hunt in the country beyond, and had + deposited large quantities of stores in the same keeping, and upward of + eighty head of cattle as relays for the return journeys, were robbed of + all, and, when they came back to Kolobeng, found the skeletons of the + guardians strewed all over the place. The books of a good library—my + solace in our solitude—were not taken away, but handfuls of the + leaves were torn out and scattered over the place. My stock of medicines + was smashed; and all our furniture and clothing carried off and sold at + public auction to pay the expenses of the foray. + </p> + <p> + I do not mention these things by way of making a pitiful wail over my + losses, nor in order to excite commiseration; for, though I do feel sorry + for the loss of lexicons, dictionaries, &c., which had been the + companions of my boyhood, yet, after all, the plundering only set me + entirely free for my expedition to the north, and I have never since had a + moment's concern for any thing I left behind. The Boers resolved to shut + up the interior, and I determined to open the country, and we shall see + who have been most successful in resolution, they or I. + </p> + <p> + A short sketch of African housekeeping may not prove uninteresting to the + reader. The entire absence of shops led us to make every thing we needed + from the raw materials. You want bricks to build a house, and must + forthwith proceed to the field, cut down a tree, and saw it into planks to + make the brick-moulds; the materials for doors and windows, too, are + standing in the forest; and, if you want to be respected by the natives, a + house of decent dimensions, costing an immense amount of manual labor, + must be built. The people can not assist you much; for, though most + willing to labor for wages, the Bakwains have a curious inability to make + or put things square: like all Bechuanas, their dwellings are made round. + In the case of three large houses, erected by myself at different times, + every brick and stick had to be put square by my own right hand. + </p> + <p> + Having got the meal ground, the wife proceeds to make it into bread; an + extempore oven is often constructed by scooping out a large hole in an + anthill, and using a slab of stone for a door. Another plan, which might + be adopted by the Australians to produce something better than their + "dampers", is to make a good fire on a level piece of ground, and, when + the ground is thoroughly heated, place the dough in a small, short-handled + frying-pan, or simply on the hot ashes; invert any sort of metal pot over + it, draw the ashes around, and then make a small fire on the top. Dough, + mixed with a little leaven from a former baking, and allowed to stand an + hour or two in the sun, will by this process become excellent bread. + </p> + <p> + We made our own butter, a jar serving as a churn; and our own candles by + means of moulds; and soap was procured from the ashes of the plant + salsola, or from wood-ashes, which in Africa contain so little alkaline + matter that the boiling of successive leys has to be continued for a month + or six weeks before the fat is saponified. There is not much hardship in + being almost entirely dependent on ourselves; there is something of the + feeling which must have animated Alexander Selkirk on seeing conveniences + springing up before him from his own ingenuity; and married life is all + the sweeter when so many comforts emanate directly from the thrifty + striving housewife's hands. + </p> + <p> + To some it may appear quite a romantic mode of life; it is one of active + benevolence, such as the good may enjoy at home. Take a single day as a + sample of the whole. We rose early, because, however hot the day may have + been, the evening, night, and morning at Kolobeng were deliciously + refreshing; cool is not the word, where you have neither an increase of + cold nor heat to desire, and where you can sit out till midnight with no + fear of coughs or rheumatism. After family worship and breakfast between + six and seven, we went to keep school for all who would attend—men, + women, and children being all invited. School over at eleven o'clock, + while the missionary's wife was occupied in domestic matters, the + missionary himself had some manual labor as a smith, carpenter, or + gardener, according to whatever was needed for ourselves or for the + people; if for the latter, they worked for us in the garden, or at some + other employment; skilled labor was thus exchanged for the unskilled. + After dinner and an hour's rest, the wife attended her infant-school, + which the young, who were left by their parents entirely to their own + caprice, liked amazingly, and generally mustered a hundred strong; or she + varied that with a sewing-school, having classes of girls to learn the + art; this, too, was equally well relished. During the day every operation + must be superintended, and both husband and wife must labor till the sun + declines. After sunset the husband went into the town to converse with any + one willing to do so, sometimes on general subjects, at other times on + religion. On three nights of the week, as soon as the milking of the cows + was over and it had become dark, we had a public religious service, and + one of instruction on secular subjects, aided by pictures and specimens. + These services were diversified by attending upon the sick and prescribing + for them, giving food, and otherwise assisting the poor and wretched. We + tried to gain their affections by attending to the wants of the body. The + smallest acts of friendship, an obliging word and civil look, are, as St. + Xavier thought, no despicable part of the missionary armor. Nor ought the + good opinion of the most abject to be uncared for, when politeness may + secure it. Their good word in the aggregate forms a reputation which may + be well employed in procuring favor for the Gospel. Show kind attention to + the reckless opponents of Christianity on the bed of sickness and pain, + and they never can become your personal enemies. Here, if any where, love + begets love. + </p> + <p> + When at Kolobeng, during the droughts we were entirely dependent on + Kuruman for supplies of corn. Once we were reduced to living on bran, to + convert which into fine meal we had to grind it three times over. We were + much in want of animal food, which seems to be a greater necessary of life + there than vegetarians would imagine. Being alone, we could not divide the + butcher-meat of a slaughtered animal with a prospect of getting a return + with regularity. Sechele had, by right of chieftainship, the breast of + every animal slaughtered either at home or abroad, and he most obligingly + sent us a liberal share during the whole period of our sojourn. But these + supplies were necessarily so irregular that we were sometimes fain to + accept a dish of locusts. These are quite a blessing in the country, so + much so that the RAIN-DOCTORS sometimes promised to bring them by their + incantations. The locusts are strongly vegetable in taste, the flavor + varying with the plants on which they feed. There is a physiological + reason why locusts and honey should be eaten together. Some are roasted + and pounded into meal, which, eaten with a little salt, is palatable. It + will keep thus for months. Boiled, they are disagreeable; but when they + are roasted I should much prefer locusts to shrimps, though I would avoid + both if possible. + </p> + <p> + In traveling we sometimes suffered considerably from scarcity of meat, + though not from absolute want of food. This was felt more especially by my + children; and the natives, to show their sympathy, often gave them a large + kind of caterpillar, which they seemed to relish; these insects could not + be unwholesome, for the natives devoured them in large quantities + themselves. + </p> + <p> + Another article of which our children partook with eagerness was a very + large frog, called "Matlametlo".* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The Pyxicephalus adspersus of Dr. Smith. + Length of head and body, 5-1/2 inches; + fore legs, 3 inches; + hind legs, 6 inches. + Width of head posteriorly, 3 inches; + of body, 4-1/2 inches. +</pre> + <p> + These enormous frogs, which, when cooked, look like chickens, are supposed + by the natives to fall down from thunder-clouds, because after a heavy + thunder-shower the pools, which are filled and retain water a few days, + become instantly alive with this loud-croaking, pugnacious game. This + phenomenon takes place in the driest parts of the desert, and in places + where, to an ordinary observer, there is not a sign of life. Having been + once benighted in a district of the Kalahari where there was no prospect + of getting water for our cattle for a day or two, I was surprised to hear + in the fine still evening the croaking of frogs. Walking out until I was + certain that the musicians were between me and our fire, I found that they + could be merry on nothing else but a prospect of rain. From the Bushmen I + afterward learned that the matlametlo makes a hole at the root of certain + bushes, and there ensconces himself during the months of drought. As he + seldom emerges, a large variety of spider takes advantage of the hole, and + makes its web across the orifice. He is thus furnished with a window and + screen gratis; and no one but a Bushman would think of searching beneath a + spider's web for a frog. They completely eluded my search on the occasion + referred to; and as they rush forth into the hollows filled by the + thunder-shower when the rain is actually falling, and the Bechuanas are + cowering under their skin garments, the sudden chorus struck up + simultaneously from all sides seems to indicate a descent from the clouds. + </p> + <p> + The presence of these matlametlo in the desert in a time of drought was + rather a disappointment, for I had been accustomed to suppose that the + note was always emitted by them when they were chin-deep in water. Their + music was always regarded in other spots as the most pleasant sound that + met the ear after crossing portions of the thirsty desert; and I could + fully appreciate the sympathy for these animals shown by Aesop, himself an + African, in his fable of the "Boys and the Frogs". + </p> + <p> + It is remarkable that attempts have not been made to any extent to + domesticate some of the noble and useful creatures of Africa in England. + The eland, which is the most magnificent of all antelopes, would grace the + parks of our nobility more than deer. This animal, from the excellence of + its flesh, would be appropriate to our own country; and as there is also a + splendid esculent frog nearly as large as a chicken, it would no doubt + tend to perpetuate the present alliance if we made a gift of that to + France. + </p> + <p> + The scavenger beetle is one of the most useful of all insects, as it + effectually answers the object indicated by the name. Where they abound, + as at Kuruman, the villages are sweet and clean, for no sooner are animal + excretions dropped than, attracted by the scent, the scavengers are heard + coming booming up the wind. They roll away the droppings of cattle at + once, in round pieces often as large as billiard-balls; and when they + reach a place proper by its softness for the deposit of their eggs and the + safety of their young, they dig the soil out from beneath the ball till + they have quite let it down and covered it: they then lay their eggs + within the mass. While the larvae are growing, they devour the inside of + the ball before coming above ground to begin the world for themselves. The + beetles with their gigantic balls look like Atlas with the world on his + back; only they go backward, and, with their heads down, push with the + hind legs, as if a boy should roll a snow-ball with his legs while + standing on his head. As we recommend the eland to John Bull, and the + gigantic frog to France, we can confidently recommend this beetle to the + dirty Italian towns and our own Sanitary Commissioners. + </p> + <p> + In trying to benefit the tribes living under the Boers of the Cashan + Mountains, I twice performed a journey of about three hundred miles to the + eastward of Kolobeng. Sechele had become so obnoxious to the Boers that, + though anxious to accompany me in my journey, he dared not trust himself + among them. This did not arise from the crime of cattle-stealing; for that + crime, so common among the Caffres, was never charged against his tribe, + nor, indeed, against any Bechuana tribe. It is, in fact, unknown in the + country, except during actual warfare. His independence and love of the + English were his only faults. In my last journey there, of about two + hundred miles, on parting at the River Marikwe he gave me two servants, + "to be," as he said, "his arms to serve me," and expressed regret that he + could not come himself. "Suppose we went north," I said, "would you come?" + He then told me the story of Sebituane having saved his life, and + expatiated on the far-famed generosity of that really great man. This was + the first time I had thought of crossing the Desert to Lake Ngami. + </p> + <p> + The conduct of the Boers, who, as will be remembered, had sent a letter + designed to procure my removal out of the country, and their well-known + settled policy which I have already described, became more fully developed + on this than on any former occasion. When I spoke to Mr. Hendrick + Potgeiter of the danger of hindering the Gospel of Christ among these poor + savages, he became greatly excited, and called one of his followers to + answer me. He threatened to attack any tribe that might receive a native + teacher, yet he promised to use his influence to prevent those under him + from throwing obstacles in our way. I could perceive plainly that nothing + more could be done in that direction, so I commenced collecting all the + information I could about the desert, with the intention of crossing it, + if possible. Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato, was acquainted with a + route which he kept carefully to himself, because the Lake country + abounded in ivory, and he drew large quantities thence periodically at but + small cost to himself. + </p> + <p> + Sechele, who valued highly every thing European, and was always fully + alive to his own interest, was naturally anxious to get a share of that + inviting field. He was most anxious to visit Sebituane too, partly, + perhaps, from a wish to show off his new acquirements, but chiefly, I + believe, from having very exalted ideas of the benefits he would derive + from the liberality of that renowned chieftain. In age and family Sechele + is the elder and superior of Sekomi; for when the original tribe broke up + into Bamangwato, Bangwaketse, and Bakwains, the Bakwains retained the + hereditary chieftainship; so their chief, Sechele, possesses certain + advantages over Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato. If the two were + traveling or hunting together, Sechele would take, by right, the heads of + the game shot by Sekomi. + </p> + <p> + There are several vestiges, besides, of very ancient partitions and + lordships of tribes. The elder brother of Sechele's father, becoming + blind, gave over the chieftainship to Sechele's father. The descendants of + this man pay no tribute to Sechele, though he is the actual ruler, and + superior to the head of that family; and Sechele, while in every other + respect supreme, calls him Kosi, or Chief. The other tribes will not begin + to eat the early pumpkins of a new crop until they hear that the Bahurutse + have "bitten it", and there is a public ceremony on the occasion—the + son of the chief being the first to taste of the new harvest. + </p> + <p> + Sechele, by my advice, sent men to Sekomi, asking leave for me to pass + along his path, accompanying the request with the present of an ox. + Sekomi's mother, who possesses great influence over him, refused + permission, because she had not been propitiated. This produced a fresh + message; and the most honorable man in the Bakwain tribe, next to Sechele, + was sent with an ox for both Sekomi and his mother. This, too, was met by + refusal. It was said, "The Matebele, the mortal enemies of the Bechuanas, + are in the direction of the lake, and, should they kill the white man, we + shall incur great blame from all his nation." + </p> + <p> + The exact position of the Lake Ngami had, for half a century at least, + been correctly pointed out by the natives, who had visited it when rains + were more copious in the Desert than in more recent times, and many + attempts had been made to reach it by passing through the Desert in the + direction indicated; but it was found impossible, even for Griquas, who, + having some Bushman blood in them, may be supposed more capable of + enduring thirst than Europeans. It was clear, then, that our only chance + of success was by going round, instead of through, the Desert. The best + time for the attempt would have been about the end of the rainy season, in + March or April, for then we should have been likely to meet with pools of + rain-water, which always dry up during the rainless winter. I communicated + my intention to an African traveler, Colonel Steele, then aid-de-camp to + the Marquis of Tweedale at Madras, and he made it known to two other + gentlemen, whose friendship we had gained during their African travel, + namely, Major Vardon and Mr. Oswell. All of these gentlemen were so + enamored with African hunting and African discovery that the two former + must have envied the latter his good fortune in being able to leave India + to undertake afresh the pleasures and pains of desert life. I believe Mr. + Oswell came from his high position at a very considerable pecuniary + sacrifice, and with no other end in view but to extend the boundaries of + geographical knowledge. Before I knew of his coming, I had arranged that + the payment for the guides furnished by Sechele should be the loan of my + wagon, to bring back whatever ivory he might obtain from the chief at the + lake. When, at last, Mr. Oswell came, bringing Mr. Murray with him, he + undertook to defray the entire expenses of the guides, and fully executed + his generous intention. + </p> + <p> + Sechele himself would have come with us, but, fearing that the + much-talked-of assault of the Boers might take place during our absence, + and blame be attached to me for taking him away, I dissuaded him against + it by saying that he knew Mr. Oswell "would be as determined as himself to + get through the Desert." + </p> + <p> + Before narrating the incidents of this journey, I may give some account of + the great Kalahari Desert, in order that the reader may understand in some + degree the nature of the difficulties we had to encounter. + </p> + <p> + The space from the Orange River in the south, lat. 29 Degrees, to Lake + Ngami in the north, and from about 24 Degrees east long. to near the west + coast, has been called a desert simply because it contains no running + water, and very little water in wells. It is by no means destitute of + vegetation and inhabitants, for it is covered with grass and a great + variety of creeping plants; besides which there are large patches of + bushes, and even trees. It is remarkably flat, but interesected in + different parts by the beds of ancient rivers; and prodigious herds of + certain antelopes, which require little or no water, roam over the + trackless plains. The inhabitants, Bushmen and Bakalahari, prey on the + game and on the countless rodentia and small species of the feline race + which subsist on these. In general, the soil is light-colored soft sand, + nearly pure silica. The beds of the ancient rivers contain much alluvial + soil; and as that is baked hard by the burning sun, rain-water stands in + pools in some of them for several months in the year. + </p> + <p> + The quantity of grass which grows on this remarkable region is + astonishing, even to those who are familiar with India. It usually rises + in tufts with bare spaces between, or the intervals are occupied by + creeping plants, which, having their roots buried far beneath the soil, + feel little the effects of the scorching sun. The number of these which + have tuberous roots is very great; and their structure is intended to + supply nutriment and moisture, when, during the long droughts, they can be + obtained nowhere else. Here we have an example of a plant, not generally + tuber-bearing, becoming so under circumstances where that appendage is + necessary to act as a reservoir for preserving its life; and the same + thing occurs in Angola to a species of grape-bearing vine, which is so + furnished for the same purpose. The plant to which I at present refer is + one of the cucurbitaceae, which bears a small, scarlet-colored, eatable + cucumber. Another plant, named Leroshua, is a blessing to the inhabitants + of the Desert. We see a small plant with linear leaves, and a stalk not + thicker than a crow's quill; on digging down a foot or eighteen inches + beneath, we come to a tuber, often as large as the head of a young child; + when the rind is removed, we find it to be a mass of cellular tissue, + filled with fluid much like that in a young turnip. Owing to the depth + beneath the soil at which it is found, it is generally deliciously cool + and refreshing. Another kind, named Mokuri, is seen in other parts of the + country, where long-continued heat parches the soil. This plant is an + herbaceous creeper, and deposits under ground a number of tubers, some as + large as a man's head, at spots in a circle a yard or more, horizontally, + from the stem. The natives strike the ground on the circumference of the + circle with stones, till, by hearing a difference of sound, they know the + water-bearing tuber to be beneath. They then dig down a foot or so, and + find it. + </p> + <p> + But the most surprising plant of the Desert is the "Kengwe or Keme" + ('Cucumis caffer'), the watermelon. In years when more than the usual + quantity of rain falls, vast tracts of the country are literally covered + with these melons; this was the case annually when the fall of rain was + greater than it is now, and the Bakwains sent trading parties every year + to the lake. It happens commonly once every ten or eleven years, and for + the last three times its occurrence has coincided with an extraordinarily + wet season. Then animals of every sort and name, including man, rejoice in + the rich supply. The elephant, true lord of the forest, revels in this + fruit, and so do the different species of rhinoceros, although naturally + so diverse in their choice of pasture. The various kinds of antelopes feed + on them with equal avidity, and lions, hyaenas, jackals, and mice, all + seem to know and appreciate the common blessing. These melons are not, + however, all of them eatable; some are sweet, and others so bitter that + the whole are named by the Boers the "bitter watermelon". The natives + select them by striking one melon after another with a hatchet, and + applying the tongue to the gashes. They thus readily distinguish between + the bitter and sweet. The bitter are deleterious, but the sweet are quite + wholesome. This peculiarity of one species of plant bearing both sweet and + bitter fruits occurs also in a red, eatable cucumber, often met with in + the country. It is about four inches long, and about an inch and a half in + diameter. It is of a bright scarlet color when ripe. Many are bitter, + others quite sweet. Even melons in a garden may be made bitter by a few + bitter kengwe in the vicinity. The bees convey the pollen from one to the + other. + </p> + <p> + The human inhabitants of this tract of country consist of Bushmen and + Bakalahari. The former are probably the aborigines of the southern portion + of the continent, the latter the remnants of the first emigration of + Bechuanas. The Bushmen live in the Desert from choice, the Bakalahari from + compulsion, and both possess an intense love of liberty. The Bushmen are + exceptions in language, race, habits, and appearance. They are the only + real nomads in the country; they never cultivate the soil, nor rear any + domestic animal save wretched dogs. They are so intimately acquainted with + the habits of the game that they follow them in their migrations, and prey + upon them from place to place, and thus prove as complete a check upon + their inordinate increase as the other carnivora. The chief subsistence of + the Bushmen is the flesh of game, but that is eked out by what the women + collect of roots and beans, and fruits of the Desert. Those who inhabit + the hot sandy plains of the Desert possess generally thin, wiry forms, + capable of great exertion and of severe privations. Many are of low + stature, though not dwarfish; the specimens brought to Europe have been + selected, like costermongers' dogs, on account of their extreme ugliness; + consequently, English ideas of the whole tribe are formed in the same way + as if the ugliest specimens of the English were exhibited in Africa as + characteristic of the entire British nation. That they are like baboons is + in some degree true, just as these and other simiae are in some points + frightfully human. + </p> + <p> + The Bakalahari are traditionally reported to be the oldest of the Bechuana + tribes, and they are said to have possessed enormous herds of the large + horned cattle mentioned by Bruce, until they were despoiled of them and + driven into the Desert by a fresh migration of their own nation. Living + ever since on the same plains with the Bushmen, subjected to the same + influences of climate, enduring the same thirst, and subsisting on similar + food for centuries, they seem to supply a standing proof that locality is + not always sufficient of itself to account for difference in races. The + Bakalahari retain in undying vigor the Bechuana love for agriculture and + domestic animals. They hoe their gardens annually, though often all they + can hope for is a supply of melons and pumpkins. And they carefully rear + small herds of goats, though I have seen them lift water for them out of + small wells with a bit of ostrich egg-shell, or by spoonfuls. They + generally attach themselves to influential men in the different Bechuana + tribes living adjacent to their desert home, in order to obtain supplies + of spears, knives, tobacco, and dogs, in exchange for the skins of the + animals they may kill. These are small carnivora of the feline species, + including two species of jackal, the dark and the golden; the former, + "motlose" ('Megalotis capensis' or 'Cape fennec'), has the warmest fur the + country yields; the latter, "pukuye" ('Canis mesomelas' and 'C. aureus'), + is very handsome when made into the skin mantle called kaross. Next in + value follow the "tsipa" or small ocelot ('Felis nigripes'), the "tuane" + or lynx, the wild cat, the spotted cat, and other small animals. Great + numbers of 'puti' ('duiker') and 'puruhuru' ('steinbuck') skins are got + too, besides those of lions, leopards, panthers, and hyaenas. During the + time I was in the Bechuana country, between twenty and thirty thousand + skins were made up into karosses; part of them were worn by the + inhabitants, and part sold to traders: many, I believe, find their way to + China. The Bakwains bought tobacco from the eastern tribes, then purchased + skins with it from the Bakalahari, tanned them, and sewed them into + karosses, then went south to purchase heifer-calves with them, cows being + the highest form of riches known, as I have often noticed from their + asking "if Queen Victoria had many cows." The compact they enter into is + mutually beneficial, but injustice and wrong are often perpetrated by one + tribe of Bechuanas going among the Bakalahari of another tribe, and + compelling them to deliver up the skins which they may be keeping for + their friends. They are a timid race, and in bodily development often + resemble the aborigines of Australia. They have thin legs and arms, and + large, protruding abdomens, caused by the coarse, indigestible food they + eat. Their children's eyes lack lustre. I never saw them at play. A few + Bechuanas may go into a village of Bakalahari, and domineer over the whole + with impunity; but when these same adventurers meet the Bushmen, they are + fain to change their manners to fawning sycophancy; they know that, if the + request for tobacco is refused, these free sons of the Desert may settle + the point as to its possession by a poisoned arrow. + </p> + <p> + The dread of visits from Bechuanas of strange tribes causes the Bakalahari + to choose their residences far from water; and they not unfrequently hide + their supplies by filling the pits with sand and making a fire over the + spot. When they wish to draw water for use, the women come with twenty or + thirty of their water-vessels in a bag or net on their backs. These + water-vessels consist of ostrich egg-shells, with a hole in the end of + each, such as would admit one's finger. The women tie a bunch of grass to + one end of a reed about two feet long, and insert it in a hole dug as deep + as the arm will reach; then ram down the wet sand firmly round it. + Applying the mouth to the free end of the reed, they form a vacuum in the + grass beneath, in which the water collects, and in a short time rises into + the mouth. An egg-shell is placed on the ground alongside the reed, some + inches below the mouth of the sucker. A straw guides the water into the + hole of the vessel, as she draws mouthful after mouthful from below. The + water is made to pass along the outside, not through the straw. If any one + will attempt to squirt water into a bottle placed some distance below his + mouth, he will soon perceive the wisdom of the Bushwoman's contrivance for + giving the stream direction by means of a straw. The whole stock of water + is thus passed through the woman's mouth as a pump, and, when taken home, + is carefully buried. I have come into villages where, had we acted a + domineering part, and rummaged every hut, we should have found nothing; + but by sitting down quietly, and waiting with patience until the villagers + were led to form a favorable opinion of us, a woman would bring out a + shellful of the precious fluid from I know not where. + </p> + <p> + The so-called Desert, it may be observed, is by no means a useless tract + of country. Besides supporting multitudes of both small and large animals, + it sends something to the market of the world, and has proved a refuge to + many a fugitive tribe—to the Bakalahari first, and to the other + Bechuanas in turn—as their lands were overrun by the tribe of true + Caffres, called Matebele. The Bakwains, the Bangwaketze, and the + Bamangwato all fled thither; and the Matebele marauders, who came from the + well-watered east, perished by hundreds in their attempts to follow them. + One of the Bangwaketze chiefs, more wily than the rest, sent false guides + to lead them on a track where, for hundreds of miles, not a drop of water + could be found, and they perished in consequence. Many Bakwains perished + too. Their old men, who could have told us ancient stories, perished in + these flights. An intelligent Mokwain related to me how the Bushmen + effectually balked a party of his tribe which lighted on their village in + a state of burning thirst. Believing, as he said, that nothing human could + subsist without water, they demanded some, but were coolly told by these + Bushmen that they had none, and never drank any. Expecting to find them + out, they resolved to watch them night and day. They persevered for some + days, thinking that at last the water must come forth; but, + notwithstanding their watchfulness, kept alive by most tormenting thirst, + the Bakwains were compelled to exclaim, "Yak! yak! these are not men; let + us go." Probably the Bushmen had been subsisting on a store hidden under + ground, which had eluded the vigilance of their visitors. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 3. + </h2> + <p> + Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849—Companions—Our Route— + Abundance of Grass—Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert—Mode of + digging Wells—The Eland—Animals of the Desert—The Hyaena—The + Chief Sekomi—Dangers—The wandering Guide—Cross Purposes—Slow + Progress—Want of Water—Capture of a Bushwoman—The + Salt-pan at Nchokotsa—The Mirage—Reach the River Zouga—The + Quakers of Africa—Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849—Its + Extent—Small Depth of Water—Position as the Reservoir of a + great River System—The Bamangwato and their Chief—Desire to + visit Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo—Refusal of Lechulatebe to + furnish us with Guides—Resolve to return to the Cape—The Banks + of the Zouga—Pitfalls—Trees of the District—Elephants—New + Species of Antelope—Fish in the Zouga. + </p> + <p> + Such was the desert which we were now preparing to cross—a region + formerly of terror to the Bechuanas from the numbers of serpents which + infested it and fed on the different kinds of mice, and from the intense + thirst which these people often endured when their water-vessels were + insufficient for the distances to be traveled over before reaching the + wells. + </p> + <p> + Just before the arrival of my companions, a party of the people of the + lake came to Kolobeng, stating that they were sent by Lechulatebe, the + chief, to ask me to visit that country. They brought such flaming accounts + of the quantities of ivory to be found there (cattle-pens made of + elephants' tusks of enormous size, &c.), that the guides of the + Bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reaching the lake as any one of + us could desire. This was fortunate, as we knew the way the strangers had + come was impassable for wagons. + </p> + <p> + Messrs. Oswell and Murray came at the end of May, and we all made a fair + start for the unknown region on the 1st of June, 1849. Proceeding + northward, and passing through a range of tree-covered hills to Shokuane, + formerly the residence of the Bakwains, we soon after entered on the high + road to the Bamangwato, which lies generally in the bed of an ancient + river or wady that must formerly have flowed N. to S. The adjacent country + is perfectly flat, but covered with open forest and bush, with abundance + of grass; the trees generally are a kind of acacia called "Monato", which + appears a little to the south of this region, and is common as far as + Angola. A large caterpillar, called "Nato", feeds by night on the leaves + of these trees, and comes down by day to bury itself at the root in the + sand, in order to escape the piercing rays of the sun. The people dig for + it there, and are fond of it when roasted, on account of its pleasant + vegetable taste. When about to pass into the chrysalis state, it buries + itself in the soil, and is sometimes sought for as food even then. If left + undisturbed, it comes forth as a beautiful butterfly: the transmutation + was sometimes employed by me with good effect when speaking with the + natives, as an illustration of our own great change and resurrection. + </p> + <p> + The soil is sandy, and there are here and there indications that at spots + which now afford no water whatever there were formerly wells and cattle + stations. + </p> + <p> + Boatlanama, our next station, is a lovely spot in the otherwise dry + region. The wells from which we had to lift out the water for our cattle + are deep, but they were well filled. A few villages of Bakalahari were + found near them, and great numbers of pallahs, springbucks, Guinea-fowl, + and small monkeys. + </p> + <p> + Lopepe came next. This place afforded another proof of the desiccation of + the country. The first time I passed it, Lopepe was a large pool with a + stream flowing out of it to the south; now it was with difficulty we could + get our cattle watered by digging down in the bottom of a well. + </p> + <p> + At Mashue—where we found a never-failing supply of pure water in a + sandstone rocky hollow—we left the road to the Bamangwato hills, and + struck away to the north into the Desert. Having watered the cattle at a + well called Lobotani, about N.W. of Bamangwato, we next proceeded to a + real Kalahari fountain, called Serotli. The country around is covered with + bushes and trees of a kind of leguminosae, with lilac flowers. The soil is + soft white sand, very trying to the strength of the oxen, as the wheels + sink into it over the felloes and drag heavily. At Serotli we found only a + few hollows like those made by the buffalo and rhinoceros when they roll + themselves in the mud. In a corner of one of these there appeared water, + which would have been quickly lapped up by our dogs, had we not driven + them away. And yet this was all the apparent supply for some eighty oxen, + twenty horses, and about a score of men. Our guide, Ramotobi, who had + spent his youth in the Desert, declared that, though appearances were + against us, there was plenty of water at hand. We had our misgivings, for + the spades were soon produced; but our guides, despising such new-fangled + aid, began in good earnest to scrape out the sand with their hands. The + only water we had any promise of for the next seventy miles—that is, + for a journey of three days with the wagons—was to be got here. By + the aid of both spades and fingers two of the holes were cleared out, so + as to form pits six feet deep and about as many broad. Our guides were + especially earnest in their injunctions to us not to break through the + hard stratum of sand at the bottom, because they knew, if it were broken + through, "the water would go away." They are quite correct, for the water + seems to lie on this flooring of incipient sandstone. The value of the + advice was proved in the case of an Englishman whose wits were none of the + brightest, who, disregarding it, dug through the sandy stratum in the + wells at Mohotluani: the water immediately flowed away downward, and the + well became useless. When we came to the stratum, we found that the water + flowed in on all sides close to the line where the soft sand came in + contact with it. Allowing it to collect, we had enough for the horses that + evening; but as there was not sufficient for the oxen, we sent them back + to Lobotani, where, after thirsting four full days (ninety-six hours), + they got a good supply. The horses were kept by us as necessary to procure + game for the sustenance of our numerous party. Next morning we found the + water had flowed in faster than at first, as it invariably does in these + reservoirs, owing to the passages widening by the flow. Large quantities + of the sand come into the well with the water, and in the course of a few + days the supply, which may be equal to the wants of a few men only, + becomes sufficient for oxen as well. In these sucking-places the + Bakalahari get their supplies; and as they are generally in the hollows of + ancient river-beds, they are probably the deposits from rains gravitating + thither; in some cases they may be the actual fountains, which, though + formerly supplying the river's flow, now no longer rise to the surface. + </p> + <p> + Here, though the water was perfectly inaccessible to elands, large numbers + of these fine animals fed around us; and, when killed, they were not only + in good condition, but their stomachs actually contained considerable + quantities of water. + </p> + <p> + I examined carefully the whole alimentary canal, in order to see if there + were any peculiarity which might account for the fact that this animal can + subsist for months together without drinking, but found nothing. Other + animals, such as the duiker ('Cephalopus mergens') or puti (of the + Bechuanas), the steinbuck ('Tragulus rupestris') or puruhuru, the gemsbuck + ('Oryx capensis') or kukama, and the porcupine ('Hystrix cristata'), are + all able to subsist without water for many months at a time by living on + bulbs and tubers containing moisture. They have sharp-pointed hoofs well + adapted for digging, and there is little difficulty in comprehending their + mode of subsistence. Some animals, on the other hand, are never seen but + in the vicinity of water. The presence of the rhinoceros, of the buffalo + and gnu ('Catoblepas gnu'), of the giraffe, the zebra, and pallah + ('Antilope melampus'), is always a certain indication of water being + within a distance of seven or eight miles; but one may see hundreds of + elands ('Boselaphus oreas'), gemsbuck, the tolo or koodoo ('Strepsiceros + capensis'), also springbucks ('Gazella euchore') and ostriches, without + being warranted thereby in inferring the presence of water within thirty + or forty miles. Indeed, the sleek, fat condition of the eland in such + circumstances would not remove the apprehension of perishing by thirst + from the mind of even a native. I believe, however, that these animals can + subsist only where there is some moisture in the vegetation on which they + feed; for in one year of unusual drought we saw herds of elands and flocks + of ostriches crowding to the Zouga from the Desert, and very many of the + latter were killed in pitfalls on the banks. As long as there is any sap + in the pasturage they seldom need water. But should a traveler see the + "spoor" of a rhinoceros, or buffalo, or zebra, he would at once follow it + up, well assured that before he had gone many miles he would certainly + reach water. + </p> + <p> + In the evening of our second day at Serotli, a hyaena, appearing suddenly + among the grass, succeeded in raising a panic among our cattle. This false + mode of attack is the plan which this cowardly animal always adopts. His + courage resembles closely that of a turkey-cock. He will bite, if an + animal is running away; but if the animal stand still, so does he. + Seventeen of our draught oxen ran away, and in their flight went right + into the hands of Sekomi, whom, from his being unfriendly to our success, + we had no particular wish to see. Cattle-stealing, such as in the + circumstances might have occurred in Caffraria, is here unknown; so Sekomi + sent back our oxen, and a message strongly dissuading us against + attempting the Desert. "Where are you going? You will be killed by the sun + and thirst, and then all the white men will blame me for not saving you." + This was backed by a private message from his mother. "Why do you pass me? + I always made the people collect to hear the word that you have got. What + guilt have I, that you pass without looking at me?" We replied by assuring + the messengers that the white men would attribute our deaths to our own + stupidity and "hard-headedness" (tlogo, e thata), "as we did not intend to + allow our companions and guides to return till they had put us into our + graves." We sent a handsome present to Sekomi, and a promise that, if he + allowed the Bakalahari to keep the wells open for us, we would repeat the + gift on our return. + </p> + <p> + After exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attempts to persuade us to + return, the under-chief, who headed the party of Sekomi's messengers, + inquired, "Who is taking them?" Looking round, he exclaimed, with a face + expressive of the most unfeigned disgust, "It is Ramotobi!" Our guide + belonged to Sekomi's tribe, but had fled to Sechele; as fugitives in this + country are always well received, and may even afterward visit the tribe + from which they had escaped, Ramotobi was in no danger, though doing that + which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests of his own chief and + tribe. + </p> + <p> + All around Serotli the country is perfectly flat, and composed of soft + white sand. There is a peculiar glare of bright sunlight from a cloudless + sky over the whole scene; and one clump of trees and bushes, with open + spaces between, looks so exactly like another, that if you leave the + wells, and walk a quarter of a mile in any direction, it is difficult to + return. Oswell and Murray went out on one occasion to get an eland, and + were accompanied by one of the Bakalahari. The perfect sameness of the + country caused even this son of the Desert to lose his way; a most + puzzling conversation forthwith ensued between them and their guide. One + of the most common phrases of the people is "Kia itumela", I thank you, or + I am pleased; and the gentlemen were both quite familiar with it, and with + the word "metse", water. But there is a word very similar in sound, "Kia + timela", I am wandering; its perfect is "Ki timetse", I have wandered. The + party had been roaming about, perfectly lost, till the sun went down; and, + through their mistaking the verb "wander" for "to be pleased", and + "water", the colloquy went on at intervals during the whole bitterly cold + night in somewhat the following style: + </p> + <p> + "Where are the wagons?" + </p> + <p> + REAL ANSWER. "I don't know. I have wandered. I never wandered before. I am + quite lost." + </p> + <p> + SUPPOSED ANSWER. "I don't know. I want water. I am glad, I am quite + pleased. I am thankful to you." + </p> + <p> + "Take us to the wagons, and you will get plenty of water." + </p> + <p> + REAL ANSWER (looking vacantly around). "How did I wander? Perhaps the well + is there, perhaps not. I don't know. I have wandered." + </p> + <p> + SUPPOSED ANSWER. "Something about thanks; he says he is pleased, and + mentions water again." The guide's vacant stare while trying to remember + is thought to indicate mental imbecility, and the repeated thanks were + supposed to indicate a wish to deprecate their wrath. + </p> + <p> + "Well, Livingstone HAS played us a pretty trick, giving us in charge of an + idiot. Catch us trusting him again. What can this fellow mean by his + thanks and talk about water? Oh, you born fool! take us to the wagons, and + you will get both meat and water. Wouldn't a thrashing bring him to his + senses again?" "No, no, for then he will run away, and we shall be worse + off than we are now." + </p> + <p> + The hunters regained the wagons next day by their own sagacity, which + becomes wonderfully quickened by a sojourn in the Desert; and we enjoyed a + hearty laugh on the explanation of their midnight colloquies. Frequent + mistakes of this kind occur. A man may tell his interpreter to say that he + is a member of the family of the chief of the white men; "YES, YOU SPEAK + LIKE A CHIEF," is the reply, meaning, as they explain it, that a chief may + talk nonsense without any one daring to contradict him. They probably have + ascertained, from that same interpreter, that this relative of the white + chief is very poor, having scarcely any thing in his wagon. + </p> + <p> + I sometimes felt annoyed at the low estimation in which some of my hunting + friends were held; for, believing that the chase is eminently conducive to + the formation of a brave and noble character, and that the contest with + wild beasts is well adapted for fostering that coolness in emergencies, + and active presence of mind, which we all admire, I was naturally anxious + that a higher estimate of my countrymen should be formed in the native + mind. "Have these hunters, who come so far and work so hard, no meat at + home?"—"Why, these men are rich, and could slaughter oxen every day + of their lives."—"And yet they come here, and endure so much thirst + for the sake of this dry meat, none of which is equal to beef?"—"Yes, + it is for the sake of play besides" (the idea of sport not being in the + language). This produces a laugh, as much as to say, "Ah! you know + better;" or, "Your friends are fools." When they can get a man to kill + large quantities of game for them, whatever HE may think of himself or of + his achievements, THEY pride themselves in having adroitly turned to good + account the folly of an itinerant butcher. + </p> + <p> + The water having at last flowed into the wells we had dug in sufficient + quantity to allow a good drink to all our cattle, we departed from Serotli + in the afternoon; but as the sun, even in winter, which it now was, is + always very powerful by day, the wagons were dragged but slowly through + the deep, heavy sand, and we advanced only six miles before sunset. We + could only travel in the mornings and evenings, as a single day in the hot + sun and heavy sand would have knocked up the oxen. Next day we passed + Pepacheu (white tufa), a hollow lined with tufa, in which water sometimes + stands, but it was now dry; and at night our trocheamer* showed that we + had made but twenty-five miles from Serotli. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This is an instrument which, when fastened on the wagon-wheel, + records the number of revolutions made. By multiplying this number + by the circumference of the wheel, the actual distance traveled over + is at once ascertained. +</pre> + <p> + Ramotobi was angry at the slowness of our progress, and told us that, as + the next water was three days in front, if we traveled so slowly we should + never get there at all. The utmost endeavors of the servants, cracking + their whips, screaming and beating, got only nineteen miles out of the + poor beasts. We had thus proceeded forty-four miles from Serotli; and the + oxen were more exhausted by the soft nature of the country, and the + thirst, than if they had traveled double the distance over a hard road + containing supplies of water: we had, as far as we could judge, still + thirty miles more of the same dry work before us. At this season the grass + becomes so dry as to crumble to powder in the hands; so the poor beasts + stood wearily chewing, without taking a single fresh mouthful, and lowing + painfully at the smell of water in our vessels in the wagons. We were all + determined to succeed; so we endeavored to save the horses by sending them + forward with the guide, as a means of making a desperate effort in case + the oxen should fail. Murray went forward with them, while Oswell and I + remained to bring the wagons on their trail as far as the cattle could + drag them, intending then to send the oxen forward too. + </p> + <p> + The horses walked quickly away from us; but, on the morning of the third + day, when we imagined the steeds must be near the water, we discovered + them just alongside the wagons. The guide, having come across the fresh + footprints of some Bushmen who had gone in an opposite direction to that + which we wished to go, turned aside to follow them. An antelope had been + ensnared in one of the Bushmen's pitfalls. Murray followed Ramotobi most + trustingly along the Bushmen's spoor, though that led them away from the + water we were in search of; witnessed the operation of slaughtering, + skinning, and cutting up the antelope; and then, after a hard day's toil, + found himself close upon the wagons! The knowledge still retained by + Ramotobi of the trackless waste of scrub, through which we were now + passing, seemed admirable. For sixty or seventy miles beyond Serotli, one + clump of bushes and trees seemed exactly like another; but, as we walked + together this morning, he remarked, "When we come to that hollow we shall + light upon the highway of Sekomi; and beyond that again lies the River + Mokoko;" which, though we passed along it, I could not perceive to be a + river-bed at all. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast, some of the men, who had gone forward on a little path + with some footprints of water-loving animals upon it, returned with the + joyful tidings of "metse", water, exhibiting the mud on their knees in + confirmation of the news being true. It does one's heart good to see the + thirsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain-water, as this was. In + they dash until the water is deep enough to be nearly level with their + throat, and then they stand drawing slowly in the long, refreshing + mouthfuls, until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would + burst. So much do they imbibe, that a sudden jerk, when they come out on + the bank, makes some of the water run out again from their mouths; but, as + they have been days without food too, they very soon commence to graze, + and of grass there is always abundance every where. This pool was called + Mathuluani; and thankful we were to have obtained so welcome a supply of + water. + </p> + <p> + After giving the cattle a rest at this spot, we proceeded down the dry bed + of the River Mokoko. The name refers to the water-bearing stratum before + alluded to; and in this ancient bed it bears enough of water to admit of + permanent wells in several parts of it. We had now the assurance from + Ramotobi that we should suffer no more from thirst. Twice we found + rain-water in the Mokoko before we reached Mokokonyani, where the water, + generally below ground elsewhere, comes to the surface in a bed of tufa. + The adjacent country is all covered with low, thorny scrub, with grass, + and here and there clumps of the "wait-a-bit thorn", or 'Acacia detinens'. + At Lotlakani (a little reed), another spring three miles farther down, we + met with the first Palmyra trees which we had seen in South Africa; they + were twenty-six in number. + </p> + <p> + The ancient Mokoko must have been joined by other rivers below this, for + it becomes very broad, and spreads out into a large lake, of which the + lake we were now in search of formed but a very small part. We observed + that, wherever an ant-eater had made his hole, shells were thrown out with + the earth, identical with those now alive in the lake. + </p> + <p> + When we left the Mokoko, Ramotobi seemed, for the first time, to be at a + loss as to which direction to take. He had passed only once away to the + west of the Mokoko, the scenes of his boyhood. Mr. Oswell, while riding in + front of the wagons, happened to spy a Bushwoman running away in a bent + position, in order to escape observation. Thinking it to be a lion, he + galloped up to her. She thought herself captured, and began to deliver up + her poor little property, consisting of a few traps made of cords; but, + when I explained that we only wanted water, and would pay her if she led + us to it, she consented to conduct us to a spring. It was then late in the + afternoon, but she walked briskly before our horses for eight miles, and + showed us the water of Nchokotsa. After leading us to the water, she + wished to go away home, if indeed she had any—she had fled from a + party of her countrymen, and was now living far from all others with her + husband—but as it was now dark, we wished her to remain. As she + believed herself still a captive, we thought she might slip away by night; + so, in order that she should not go away with the impression that we were + dishonest, we gave her a piece of meat and a good large bunch of beads; at + the sight of the latter she burst into a merry laugh, and remained without + suspicion. + </p> + <p> + At Nchokotsa we came upon the first of a great number of salt-pans, + covered with an efflorescence of lime, probably the nitrate. A thick belt + of mopane-trees (a 'Bauhinia') hides this salt-pan, which is twenty miles + in circumference, entirely from the view of a person coming from the + southeast; and, at the time the pan burst upon our view, the setting sun + was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white incrustations, making the + whole look exactly like a lake. Oswell threw his hat up in the air at the + sight, and shouted out a huzza which made the poor Bushwoman and the + Bakwains think him mad. I was a little behind him, and was as completely + deceived by it as he; but, as we had agreed to allow each other to behold + the lake at the same instant, I felt a little chagrined that he had, + unintentionally, got the first glance. We had no idea that the + long-looked-for lake was still more than three hundred miles distant. One + reason of our mistake was, that the River Zouga was often spoken of by the + same name as the lake, viz., Noka ea Batletli ("River of the Batletli"). + </p> + <p> + The mirage on these salinas was marvelous. It is never, I believe, seen in + perfection, except over such saline incrustations. Here not a particle of + imagination was necessary for realizing the exact picture of large + collections of water; the waves danced along above, and the shadows of the + trees were vividly reflected beneath the surface in such an admirable + manner, that the loose cattle, whose thirst had not been slaked + sufficiently by the very brackish water of Nchokotsa, with the horses, + dogs, and even the Hottentots ran off toward the deceitful pools. A herd + of zebras in the mirage looked so exactly like elephants that Oswell began + to saddle a horse in order to hunt them; but a sort of break in the haze + dispelled the illusion. Looking to the west and northwest from Nchokotsa, + we could see columns of black smoke, exactly like those from a + steam-engine, rising to the clouds, and were assured that these arose from + the burning reeds of the Noka ea Batletli. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th of July we went forward on horseback toward what we supposed to + be the lake, and again and again did we seem to see it; but at last we + came to the veritable water of the Zouga, and found it to be a river + running to the N.E. A village of Bakurutse lay on the opposite bank; these + live among Batletli, a tribe having a click in their language, and who + were found by Sebituane to possess large herds of the great horned cattle. + They seem allied to the Hottentot family. Mr. Oswell, in trying to cross + the river, got his horse bogged in the swampy bank. Two Bakwains and I + managed to get over by wading beside a fishing-weir. The people were + friendly, and informed us that this water came out of the Ngami. This news + gladdened all our hearts, for we now felt certain of reaching our goal. We + might, they said, be a moon on the way; but we had the River Zouga at our + feet, and by following it we should at last reach the broad water. + </p> + <p> + Next day, when we were quite disposed to be friendly with every one, two + of the Bamangwato, who had been sent on before us by Sekomi to drive away + all the Bushmen and Bakalahari from our path, so that they should not + assist or guide us, came and sat down by our fire. We had seen their + footsteps fresh in the way, and they had watched our slow movements + forward, and wondered to see how we, without any Bushmen, found our way to + the waters. This was the first time they had seen Ramotobi. "You have + reached the river now," said they; and we, quite disposed to laugh at + having won the game, felt no ill-will to any one. They seemed to feel no + enmity to us either; but, after an apparently friendly conversation, + proceeded to fulfill to the last the instructions of their chief. + Ascending the Zouga in our front, they circulated the report that our + object was to plunder all the tribes living on the river and lake; but + when they had got half way up the river, the principal man sickened of + fever, turned back some distance, and died. His death had a good effect, + for the villagers connected it with the injury he was attempting to do to + us. They all saw through Sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in our + attempt; and though they came to us at first armed, kind and fair + treatment soon produced perfect confidence. + </p> + <p> + When we had gone up the bank of this beautiful river about ninety-six + miles from the point where we first struck it, and understood that we were + still a considerable distance from the Ngami, we left all the oxen and + wagons, except Mr. Oswell's, which was the smallest, and one team, at + Ngabisane, in the hope that they would be recruited for the home journey, + while we made a push for the lake. The Bechuana chief of the Lake region, + who had sent men to Sechele, now sent orders to all the people on the + river to assist us, and we were received by the Bakoba, whose language + clearly shows that they bear an affinity to the tribes in the north. They + call themselves Bayeiye, i.e., men; but the Bechuanas call them Bakoba, + which contains somewhat of the idea of slaves. They have never been known + to fight, and, indeed, have a tradition that their forefathers, in their + first essays at war, made their bows of the Palma Christi, and, when these + broke, they gave up fighting altogether. They have invariably submitted to + the rule of every horde which has overrun the countries adjacent to the + rivers on which they specially love to dwell. They are thus the Quakers of + the body politic in Africa. + </p> + <p> + A long time after the period of our visit, the chief of the Lake, thinking + to make soldiers of them, took the trouble to furnish them with shields. + "Ah! we never had these before; that is the reason we have always + succumbed. Now we will fight." But a marauding party came from the + Makololo, and our "Friends" at once paddled quickly, night and day, down + the Zouga, never daring to look behind them till they reached the end of + the river, at the point where we first saw it. + </p> + <p> + The canoes of these inland sailors are truly primitive craft: they are + hollowed out of the trunks of single trees by means of iron adzes; and if + the tree has a bend, so has the canoe. I liked the frank and manly bearing + of these men, and, instead of sitting in the wagon, preferred a seat in + one of the canoes. I found they regarded their rude vessels as the Arab + does his camel. They have always fires in them, and prefer sleeping in + them while on a journey to spending the night on shore. "On land you have + lions," say they, "serpents, hyaenas, and your enemies; but in your canoe, + behind a bank of reed, nothing can harm you." Their submissive disposition + leads to their villages being frequently visited by hungry strangers. We + had a pot on the fire in the canoe by the way, and when we drew near the + villages devoured the contents. When fully satisfied ourselves, I found we + could all look upon any intruders with perfect complacency, and show the + pot in proof of having devoured the last morsel. + </p> + <p> + While ascending in this way the beautifully-wooded river, we came to a + large stream flowing into it. This was the River Tamunak'le. I inquired + whence it came. "Oh, from a country full of rivers—so many no one + can tell their number—and full of large trees." This was the first + confirmation of statements I had heard from the Bakwains who had been with + Sebituane, that the country beyond was not "the large sandy plateau" of + the philosophers. The prospect of a highway capable of being traversed by + boats to an entirely unexplored and very populous region, grew from that + time forward stronger and stronger in my mind; so much so that, when we + actually came to the lake, this idea occupied such a large portion of my + mental vision that the actual discovery seemed of but little importance. I + find I wrote, when the emotions caused by the magnificent prospects of the + new country were first awakened in my breast, that they "might subject me + to the charge of enthusiasm, a charge which I wished I deserved, as + nothing good or great had ever been accomplished in the world without + it."* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Letters published by the Royal Geographical Society. + Read 11th February and 8th April, 1850. +</pre> + <p> + Twelve days after our departure from the wagons at Ngabisane we came to + the northeast end of Lake Ngami; and on the 1st of August, 1849, we went + down together to the broad part, and, for the first time, this + fine-looking sheet of water was beheld by Europeans. The direction of the + lake seemed to be N.N.E. and S.S.W. by compass. The southern portion is + said to bend round to the west, and to receive the Teoughe from the north + at its northwest extremity. We could detect no horizon where we stood looking + S.S.W., nor could we form any idea of the extent of the lake, except from + the reports of the inhabitants of the district; and, as they professed to + go round it in three days, allowing twenty-five miles a day would make it + seventy-five, or less than seventy geographical miles in circumference. + Other guesses have been made since as to its circumference, ranging + between seventy and one hundred miles. It is shallow, for I subsequently + saw a native punting his canoe over seven or eight miles of the northeast + end; it can never, therefore, be of much value as a commercial highway. In + fact, during the months preceding the annual supply of water from the + north, the lake is so shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can + approach the water through the boggy, reedy banks. These are low on all + sides, but on the west there is a space devoid of trees, showing that the + waters have retired thence at no very ancient date. This is another of the + proofs of desiccation met with so abundantly throughout the whole country. + A number of dead trees lie on this space, some of them imbedded in the + mud, right in the water. We were informed by the Bayeiye, who live on the + lake, that when the annual inundation begins, not only trees of great + size, but antelopes, as the springbuck and tsessebe ('Acronotus lunata'), + are swept down by its rushing waters; the trees are gradually driven by + the winds to the opposite side, and become imbedded in mud. + </p> + <p> + The water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full, but brackish when low; + and that coming down the Tamunak'le we found to be so clear, cold, and + soft, the higher we ascended, that the idea of melting snow was suggested + to our minds. We found this region, with regard to that from which we had + come, to be clearly a hollow, the lowest point being Lake Kumadau; the + point of the ebullition of water, as shown by one of Newman's barometric + thermometers, was only between 207-1/2 Deg. and 206 Deg., giving an + elevation of not much more than two thousand feet above the level of the + sea. We had descended above two thousand feet in coming to it from + Kolobeng. It is the southern and lowest part of the great river system + beyond, in which large tracts of country are inundated annually by + tropical rains, hereafter to be described. A little of that water, which + in the countries farther north produces inundation, comes as far south as + 20d 20', the latitude of the upper end of the lake, and instead of + flooding the country, falls into the lake as into a reservoir. It begins + to flow down the Embarrah, which divides into the rivers Tzo and Teoughe. + The Tzo divides into the Tamunak'le and Mababe; the Tamunak'le discharges + itself into the Zouga, and the Teoughe into the lake. The flow begins + either in March or April, and the descending waters find the channels of + all these rivers dried out, except in certain pools in their beds, which + have long dry spaces between them. The lake itself is very low. The Zouga + is but a prolongation of the Tamunak'le, and an arm of the lake reaches up + to the point where the one ends and the other begins. The last is narrow + and shallow, while the Zouga is broad and deep. The narrow arm of the + lake, which on the map looks like a continuation of the Zouga, has never + been observed to flow either way. It is as stagnant as the lake itself. + </p> + <p> + The Teoughe and Tamunak'le, being essentially the same river, and + receiving their supplies from the same source (the Embarrah or Varra), can + never outrun each other. If either could, or if the Teoughe could fill the + lake—a thing which has never happened in modern times—then + this little arm would prove a convenient escapement to prevent inundation. + If the lake ever becomes lower than the bed of the Zouga, a little of the + water of the Tamunak'le might flow into it instead of down the Zouga; we + should then have the phenomenon of a river flowing two ways; but this has + never been observed to take place here, and it is doubtful if it ever can + occur in this locality. The Zouga is broad and deep when it leaves the + Tamunak'le, but becomes gradually narrower as you descend about two + hundred miles; there it flows into Kumadau, a small lake about three or + four miles broad and twelve long. The water, which higher up begins to + flow in April, does not make much progress in filling this lake till the + end of June. In September the rivers cease to flow. When the supply has + been more than usually abundant, a little water flows beyond Kumadau, in + the bed first seen by us on the 4th of July; if the quantity were larger, + it might go further in the dry rocky bed of the Zouga, since seen still + further to the east. The water supply of this part of the river system, as + will be more fully explained further on, takes place in channels prepared + for a much more copious flow. It resembles a deserted Eastern garden, + where all the embankments and canals for irrigation can be traced, but + where, the main dam and sluices having been allowed to get out of repair, + only a small portion can be laid under water. In the case of the Zouga the + channel is perfect, but water enough to fill the whole channel never comes + down; and before it finds its way much beyond Kumadau, the upper supply + ceases to run and the rest becomes evaporated. The higher parts of its bed + even are much broader and more capacious than the lower toward Kumadau. + The water is not absorbed so much as lost in filling up an empty channel, + from which it is to be removed by the air and sun. There is, I am + convinced, no such thing in the country as a river running into sand and + becoming lost. The phenomenon, so convenient for geographers, haunted my + fancy for years; but I have failed in discovering any thing except a most + insignificant approach to it. + </p> + <p> + My chief object in coming to the lake was to visit Sebituane, the great + chief of the Makololo, who was reported to live some two hundred miles + beyond. We had now come to a half-tribe of the Bamangwato, called + Batauana. Their chief was a young man named Lechulatebe. Sebituane had + conquered his father Moremi, and Lechulatebe received part of his + education while a captive among the Bayeiye. His uncle, a sensible man, + ransomed him; and, having collected a number of families together, + abdicated the chieftainship in favor of his nephew. As Lechulatebe had + just come into power, he imagined that the proper way of showing his + abilities was to act directly contrary to every thing that his uncle + advised. When we came, the uncle recommended him to treat us handsomely, + therefore the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only. It ought to + have been an ox. So I proposed to my companions to loose the animal and + let him go, as a hint to his master. They, however, did not wish to insult + him. I, being more of a native, and familiar with their customs, knew that + this shabby present was an insult to us. We wished to purchase some goats + or oxen; Lechulatebe offered us elephants' tusks. "No, we can not eat + these; we want something to fill our stomachs." "Neither can I; but I hear + you white men are all very fond of these bones, so I offer them; I want to + put the goats into my own stomach." A trader, who accompanied us, was then + purchasing ivory at the rate of ten good large tusks for a musket worth + thirteen shillings. They were called "bones"; and I myself saw eight + instances in which the tusks had been left to rot with the other bones + where the elephant fell. The Batauana never had a chance of a market + before; but, in less than two years after our discovery, not a man of them + could be found who was not keenly alive to the great value of the article. + </p> + <p> + On the day after our arrival at the lake, I applied to Lechulatebe for + guides to Sebituane. As he was much afraid of that chief, he objected, + fearing lest other white men should go thither also, and give Sebituane + guns; whereas, if the traders came to him alone, the possession of + fire-arms would give him such a superiority that Sebituane would be afraid + of him. It was in vain to explain that I would inculcate peace between + them—that Sebituane had been a father to him and Sechele, and was as + anxious to see me as he, Lechulatebe, had been. He offered to give me as + much ivory as I needed without going to that chief; but when I refused to + take any, he unwillingly consented to give me guides. Next day, however, + when Oswell and I were prepared to start, with the horses only, we + received a senseless refusal; and like Sekomi, who had thrown obstacles in + our way, he sent men to the Bayeiye with orders to refuse us a passage + across the river. Trying hard to form a raft at a narrow part, I worked + many hours in the water; but the dry wood was so worm-eaten it would not + bear the weight of a single person. I was not then aware of the number of + alligators which exist in the Zouga, and never think of my labor in the + water without feeling thankful that I escaped their jaws. The season was + now far advanced; and as Mr. Oswell, with his wonted generous feelings, + volunteered, on the spot, to go down to the Cape and bring up a boat, we + resolved to make our way south again. + </p> + <p> + Coming down the Zouga, we had now time to look at its banks. These are + very beautiful, resembling closely many parts of the River Clyde above + Glasgow. The formation is soft calcareous tufa, such as forms the bottom + of all this basin. The banks are perpendicular on the side to which the + water swings, and sloping and grassy on the other. The slopes are selected + for the pitfalls designed by the Bayeiye to entrap the animals as they + come to drink. These are about seven or eight feet deep, three or four + feet wide at the mouth, and gradually decrease till they are only about a + foot wide at the bottom. The mouth is an oblong square (the only square + thing made by the Bechuanas, for every thing else is round), and the long + diameter at the surface is about equal to the depth. The decreasing width + toward the bottom is intended to make the animal wedge himself more firmly + in by his weight and struggles. The pitfalls are usually in pairs, with a + wall a foot thick left uncut between the ends of each, so that if the + beast, when it feels its fore legs descending, should try to save itself + from going in altogether by striding the hind legs, he would spring + forward and leap into the second with a force which insures the fall of + his whole body into the trap. They are covered with great care. All the + excavated earth is removed to a distance, so as not to excite suspicion in + the minds of the animals. Reeds and grass are laid across the top; above + this the sand is thrown, and watered so as to appear exactly like the rest + of the spot. Some of our party plumped into these pitfalls more than once, + even when in search of them, in order to open them to prevent the loss of + our cattle. If an ox sees a hole, he carefully avoids it; and old + elephants have been known to precede the herd and whisk off the coverings + of the pitfalls on each side all the way down to the water. We have known + instances in which the old among these sagacious animals have actually + lifted the young out of the trap. + </p> + <p> + The trees which adorn the banks are magnificent. Two enormous baobabs + ('Adansonia digitata'), or mowanas, grow near its confluence with the lake + where we took the observations for the latitude (20d 20' S.). We were + unable to ascertain the longitude of the lake, as our watches were + useless; it may be between 22 Deg. and 23 Deg. E. The largest of the two + baobabs was 76 feet in girth. The palmyra appears here and there among + trees not met with in the south. The mokuchong, or moshoma, bears an + edible fruit of indifferent quality, but the tree itself would be a fine + specimen of arboreal beauty in any part of the world. The trunk is often + converted into canoes. The motsouri, which bears a pink plum containing a + pleasant acid juice, resembles an orange-tree in its dark evergreen + foliage, and a cypress in its form. It was now winter-time, and we saw + nothing of the flora. The plants and bushes were dry; but wild indigo + abounded, as indeed it does over large tracts of Africa. It is called + mohetolo, or the "changer", by the boys, who dye their ornaments of straw + with the juice. There are two kinds of cotton in the country, and the + Mashona, who convert it into cloth, dye it blue with this plant. + </p> + <p> + We found the elephants in prodigious numbers on the southern bank. They + come to drink by night, and after having slaked their thirst—in + doing which they throw large quantities of water over themselves, and are + heard, while enjoying the refreshment, screaming with delight—they + evince their horror of pitfalls by setting off in a straight line to the + desert, and never diverge till they are eight or ten miles off. They are + smaller here than in the countries farther south. At the Limpopo, for + instance, they are upward of twelve feet high; here, only eleven: farther + north we shall find them nine feet only. The koodoo, or tolo, seemed + smaller, too, than those we had been accustomed to see. We saw specimens + of the kuabaoba, or straight-horned rhinoceros ('R. Oswellii'), which is a + variety of the white ('R. simus'); and we found that, from the horn being + projected downward, it did not obstruct the line of vision, so that this + species is able to be much more wary than its neighbors. + </p> + <p> + We discovered an entirely new species of antelope, called leche or lechwi. + It is a beautiful water-antelope of a light brownish-yellow color. Its + horns—exactly like those of the 'Aigoceros ellipsiprimnus', the + waterbuck, or tumogo, of the Bechuanas—rise from the head with a + slight bend backward, then curve forward at the points. The chest, belly, + and orbits are nearly white, the front of the legs and ankles deep brown. + From the horns, along the nape to the withers, the male has a small mane + of the same yellowish color with the rest of the skin, and the tail has a + tuft of black hair. It is never found a mile from water; islets in marshes + and rivers are its favorite haunts, and it is quite unknown except in the + central humid basin of Africa. Having a good deal of curiosity, it + presents a noble appearance as it stands gazing, with head erect, at the + approaching stranger. When it resolves to decamp, it lowers its head, and + lays its horns down to a level with the withers; it then begins with a + waddling trot, which ends in its galloping and springing over bushes like + the pallahs. It invariably runs to the water, and crosses it by a + succession of bounds, each of which appears to be from the bottom. We + thought the flesh good at first, but soon got tired of it. + </p> + <p> + Great shoals of excellent fish come down annually with the access of + waters. The mullet ('Mugil Africanus') is the most abundant. They are + caught in nets. + </p> + <p> + The 'Glanis siluris', a large, broad-headed fish, without scales, and + barbed—called by the natives "mosala"—attains an enormous size + and fatness. They are caught so large that when a man carries one over his + shoulder the tail reaches the ground. It is a vegetable feeder, and in + many of its habits resembles the eel. Like most lophoid fishes, it has the + power of retaining a large quantity of water in a part of its great head, + so that it can leave the river, and even be buried in the mud of dried-up + pools, without being destroyed. Another fish closely resembling this, and + named 'Clarias capensis' by Dr. Smith, is widely diffused throughout the + interior, and often leaves the rivers for the sake of feeding in pools. As + these dry up, large numbers of them are entrapped by the people. A + water-snake, yellow-spotted and dark brown, is often seen swimming along + with its head above the water: it is quite harmless, and is relished as + food by the Bayeiye. + </p> + <p> + They mention ten kinds of fish in their river; and, in their songs of + praise to the Zouga, say, "The messenger sent in haste is always forced to + spend the night on the way by the abundance of food you place before him." + The Bayeiye live much on fish, which is quite an abomination to the + Bechuanas of the south; and they catch them in large numbers by means of + nets made of the fine, strong fibres of the hibiscus, which grows + abundantly in all moist places. Their float-ropes are made of the ife, or, + as it is now called, the 'Sanseviere Angolensis', a flag-looking plant, + having a very strong fibre, that abounds from Kolobeng to Angola; and the + floats themselves are pieces of a water-plant containing valves at each + joint, which retain the air in cells about an inch long. The mode of + knotting the nets is identical with our own. + </p> + <p> + They also spear the fish with javelins having a light handle, which + readily floats on the surface. They show great dexterity in harpooning the + hippopotamus; and, the barbed blade of the spear being attached to a rope + made of the young leaves of the palmyra, the animal can not rid himself of + the canoe, attached to him in whale fashion, except by smashing it, which + he not unfrequently does by his teeth or by a stroke of his hind foot. + </p> + <p> + On returning to the Bakurutse, we found that their canoes for fishing were + simply large bundles of reeds tied together. Such a canoe would be a ready + extemporaneous pontoon for crossing any river that had reedy banks. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 4. + </h2> + <p> + Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane—Reach the Zouga— + The Tsetse—A Party of Englishmen—Death of Mr. Rider—Obtain + Guides—Children fall sick with Fever—Relinquish the Attempt to + reach Sebituane—Mr. Oswell's Elephant-hunting—Return to + Kolobeng—Make a third Start thence—Reach Nchokotsa—Salt-pans—"Links", + or Springs—Bushmen—Our Guide Shobo—The Banajoa—An + ugly Chief—The Tsetse—Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but + harmless to wild Animals and Man—Operation of the Poison—Losses + caused by it—The Makololo— Our Meeting with Sebituane—Sketch + of his Career—His Courage and Conquests—Manoeuvres of the + Batoka—He outwits them—His Wars with the Matebele—Predictions + of a native Prophet—Successes of the Makololo—Renewed Attacks + of the Matebele—The Island of Loyelo—Defeat of the Matebele—Sebituane's + Policy—His Kindness to Strangers and to the Poor—His sudden + Illness and Death—Succeeded by his Daughter—Her Friendliness + to us—Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing in the Centre + of the Continent—Its Size—The Mambari—The Slave-trade—Determine + to send Family to England—Return to the Cape in April, 1852—Safe + Transit through the Caffre Country during Hostilities—Need of a + "Special Correspondent"—Kindness of the London Missionary Society—Assistance + afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape. + </p> + <p> + Having returned to Kolobeng, I remained there till April, 1850, and then + left in company with Mrs. Livingstone, our three children, and the chief + Sechele—who had now bought a wagon of his own—in order to go + across the Zouga at its lower end, with the intention of proceeding up the + northern bank till we gained the Tamunak'le, and of then ascending that + river to visit Sebituane in the north. Sekomi had given orders to fill up + the wells which we had dug with so much labor at Serotli, so we took the + more eastern route through the Bamangwato town and by Letloche. That chief + asked why I had avoided him in our former journeys. I replied that my + reason was that I knew he did not wish me to go to the lake, and I did not + want to quarrel with him. "Well," he said, "you beat me then, and I am + content." + </p> + <p> + Parting with Sechele at the ford, as he was eager to visit Lechulatebe, we + went along the northern woody bank of the Zouga with great labor, having + to cut down very many trees to allow the wagons to pass. Our losses by + oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy. The Bayeiye kindly opened the + pits when they knew of our approach; but when that was not the case, we + could blame no one on finding an established custom of the country + inimical to our interests. On approaching the confluence of the Tamunak'le + we were informed that the fly called tsetse* abounded on its banks. This + was a barrier we never expected to meet; and, as it might have brought our + wagons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness, where no supplies for + the children could be obtained, we were reluctantly compelled to recross + the Zouga. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * 'Glossina morsitans', the first specimens of which were + brought to England in 1848 by my friend Major Vardon, from the + banks of the Limpopo. +</pre> + <p> + From the Bayeiye we learned that a party of Englishmen, who had come to + the lake in search of ivory, were all laid low by fever, so we traveled + hastily down about sixty miles to render what aid was in our power. We + were grieved to find, as we came near, that Mr. Alfred Rider, an + enterprising young artist who had come to make sketches of this country + and of the lake immediately after its discovery, had died of fever before + our arrival; but by the aid of medicines and such comforts as could be + made by the only English lady who ever visited the lake, the others + happily recovered. The unfinished drawing of Lake Ngami was made by Mr. + Rider just before his death, and has been kindly lent for this work by his + bereaved mother. + </p> + <p> + Sechele used all his powers of eloquence with Lechulatebe to induce him to + furnish guides that I might be able to visit Sebituane on ox-back, while + Mrs. Livingstone and the children remained at Lake Ngami. He yielded at + last. I had a very superior London-made gun, the gift of Lieutenant + Arkwright, on which I placed the greatest value, both on account of the + donor and the impossibility of my replacing it. Lechulatebe fell violently + in love with it, and offered whatever number of elephants' tusks I might + ask for it. I too was enamored with Sebituane; and as he promised in + addition that he would furnish Mrs. Livingstone with meat all the time of + my absence, his arguments made me part with the gun. Though he had no + ivory at the time to pay me, I felt the piece would be well spent on those + terms, and delivered it to him. All being ready for our departure, I took + Mrs. Livingstone about six miles from the town, that she might have a peep + at the broad part of the lake. Next morning we had other work to do than + part, for our little boy and girl were seized with fever. On the day + following, all our servants were down too with the same complaint. As + nothing is better in these cases than change of place, I was forced to + give up the hope of seeing Sebituane that year; so, leaving my gun as part + payment for guides next year, we started for the pure air of the Desert. + </p> + <p> + Some mistake had happened in the arrangement with Mr. Oswell, for we met + him on the Zouga on our return, and he devoted the rest of this season to + elephant-hunting, at which the natives universally declare he is the + greatest adept that ever came into the country. He hunted without dogs. It + is remarkable that this lordly animal is so completely harassed by the + presence of a few yelping curs as to be quite incapable of attending to + man. He makes awkward attempts to crush them by falling on his knees; and + sometimes places his forehead against a tree ten inches in diameter; + glancing on one side of the tree and then on the other, he pushes it down + before him, as if he thought thereby to catch his enemies. The only danger + the huntsman has to apprehend is the dogs running toward him, and thereby + leading the elephant to their master. Mr. Oswell has been known to kill + four large old male elephants a day. The value of the ivory in these cases + would be one hundred guineas. We had reason to be proud of his success, + for the inhabitants conceived from it a very high idea of English courage; + and when they wished to flatter me would say, "If you were not a + missionary you would just be like Oswell; you would not hunt with dogs + either." When, in 1852, we came to the Cape, my black coat eleven years + out of fashion, and without a penny of salary to draw, we found that Mr. + Oswell had most generously ordered an outfit for the half-naked children, + which cost about 200 Pounds, and presented it to us, saying he thought + Mrs. Livingstone had a right to the game of her own preserves. + </p> + <p> + Foiled in this second attempt to reach Sebituane, we returned again to + Kolobeng, whither we were soon followed by a number of messengers from + that chief himself. When he heard of our attempts to visit him, he + dispatched three detachments of his men with thirteen brown cows to + Lechulatebe, thirteen white cows to Sekomi, and thirteen black cows to + Sechele, with a request to each to assist the white men to reach him. + Their policy, however, was to keep him out of view, and act as his agents + in purchasing with his ivory the goods he wanted. This is thoroughly + African; and that continent being without friths and arms of the sea, the + tribes in the centre have always been debarred from European intercourse + by its universal prevalence among all the people around the coasts. + </p> + <p> + Before setting out on our third journey to Sebituane, it was necessary to + visit Kuruman; and Sechele, eager, for the sake of the commission thereon, + to get the ivory of that chief into his own hands, allowed all the + messengers to leave before our return. Sekomi, however, was more than + usually gracious, and even furnished us with a guide, but no one knew the + path beyond Nchokotsa which we intended to follow. When we reached that + point, we found that the main spring of the gun of another of his men, who + was well acquainted with the Bushmen, through whose country we should + pass, had opportunely broken. I never undertook to mend a gun with greater + zest than this; for, under promise of his guidance, we went to the north + instead of westward. All the other guides were most liberally rewarded by + Mr. Oswell. + </p> + <p> + We passed quickly over a hard country, which is perfectly flat. A little + soil lying on calcareous tufa, over a tract of several hundreds of miles, + supports a vegetation of fine sweet short grass, and mopane and baobab + trees. On several parts of this we found large salt-pans, one of which, + Ntwetwe, is fifteen miles broad and one hundred long. The latitude might + have been taken on its horizon as well as upon the sea. + </p> + <p> + Although these curious spots seem perfectly level, all those in this + direction have a gentle slope to the northeast: thither the rain-water, + which sometimes covers them, gently gravitates. This, it may be + recollected, is the direction of the Zouga. The salt dissolved in the + water has by this means all been transferred to one pan in that direction, + named Chuantsa; on it we see a cake of salt and lime an inch and a half + thick. All the others have an efflorescence of lime and one of the + nitrates only, and some are covered thickly with shells. These shells are + identical with those of the mollusca of Lake Ngami and the Zouga. There + are three varieties, spiral, univalve, and bivalve. + </p> + <p> + In every salt-pan in the country there is a spring of water on one side. I + can remember no exception to this rule. The water of these springs is + brackish, and contains the nitrate of soda. In one instance there are two + springs, and one more saltish than the other. If this supply came from + beds of rock salt the water would not be drinkable, as it generally is, + and in some instances, where the salt contained in the pan in which these + springs appear has been removed by human agency, no fresh deposit occurs. + It is therefore probable that these deposits of salt are the remains of + the very slightly brackish lakes of antiquity, large portions of which + must have been dried out in the general desiccation. We see an instance in + Lake Ngami, which, when low, becomes brackish, and this view seems + supported by the fact that the largest quantities of salt have been found + in the deepest hollows or lowest valleys, which have no outlet or outgoing + gorge; and a fountain, about thirty miles south of the Bamangwato—the + temperature of which is upward of 100 Deg.—while strongly + impregnated with pure salt, being on a flat part of the country, is + accompanied by no deposit. + </p> + <p> + When these deposits occur in a flat tufaceous country like the present, a + large space is devoid of vegetation, on account of the nitrates dissolving + the tufa, and keeping it in a state unfavorable to the growth of plants. + </p> + <p> + We found a great number of wells in this tufa. A place called + Matlomagan-yana, or the "Links", is quite a chain of these never-failing + springs. As they occasionally become full in seasons when no rain falls, + and resemble somewhat in this respect the rivers we have already + mentioned, it is probable they receive some water by percolation from the + river system in the country beyond. Among these links we found many + families of Bushmen; and, unlike those on the plains of the Kalahari, who + are generally of short stature and light yellow color, these were tall, + strapping fellows, of dark complexion. Heat alone does not produce + blackness of skin, but heat with moisture seems to insure the deepest hue. + </p> + <p> + One of these Bushmen, named Shobo, consented to be our guide over the + waste between these springs and the country of Sebituane. Shobo gave us no + hope of water in less than a month. Providentially, however, we came + sooner than we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of + pools. It is impossible to convey an idea of the dreary scene on which we + entered after leaving this spot: the only vegetation was a low scrub in + deep sand; not a bird or insect enlivened the landscape. It was, without + exception, the most uninviting prospect I ever beheld; and, to make + matters worse, our guide Shobo wandered on the second day. We coaxed him + on at night, but he went to all points of the compass on the trails of + elephants which had been here in the rainy season, and then would sit down + in the path, and in his broken Sichuana say, "No water, all country only; + Shobo sleeps; he breaks down; country only;" and then coolly curl himself + up and go to sleep. The oxen were terribly fatigued and thirsty; and on + the morning of the fourth day, Shobo, after professing ignorance of every + thing, vanished altogether. We went on in the direction in which we last + saw him, and about eleven o'clock began to see birds; then the trail of a + rhinoceros. At this we unyoked the oxen, and they, apparently knowing the + sign, rushed along to find the water in the River Mahabe, which comes from + the Tamunak'le, and lay to the west of us. The supply of water in the + wagons had been wasted by one of our servants, and by the afternoon only a + small portion remained for the children. This was a bitterly anxious + night; and next morning the less there was of water, the more thirsty the + little rogues became. The idea of their perishing before our eyes was + terrible. It would almost have been a relief to me to have been reproached + with being the entire cause of the catastrophe; but not one syllable of + upbraiding was uttered by their mother, though the tearful eye told the + agony within. In the afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible + relief, some of the men returned with a supply of that fluid of which we + had never before felt the true value. + </p> + <p> + The cattle, in rushing along to the water in the Mahabe, probably crossed + a small patch of trees containing tsetse, an insect which was shortly to + become a perfect pest to us. Shobo had found his way to the Bayeiye, and + appeared, when we came up to the river, at the head of a party; and, as he + wished to show his importance before his friends, he walked up boldly and + commanded our whole cavalcade to stop, and to bring forth fire and + tobacco, while he coolly sat down and smoked his pipe. It was such an + inimitably natural way of showing off, that we all stopped to admire the + acting, and, though he had left us previously in the lurch, we all liked + Shobo, a fine specimen of that wonderful people, the Bushmen. + </p> + <p> + Next day we came to a village of Banajoa, a tribe which extends far to the + eastward. They were living on the borders of a marsh in which the Mahabe + terminates. They had lost their crop of corn ('Holcus sorghum'), and now + subsisted almost entirely on the root called "tsitla", a kind of aroidoea, + which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tasted starch. When dried, + pounded into meal, and allowed to ferment, it forms a not unpleasant + article of food. The women shave all the hair off their heads, and seem + darker than the Bechuanas. Their huts were built on poles, and a fire is + made beneath by night, in order that the smoke may drive away the + mosquitoes, which abound on the Mababe and Tamunak'le more than in any + other part of the country. The head man of this village, Majane, seemed a + little wanting in ability, but had had wit enough to promote a younger + member of the family to the office. This person, the most like the ugly + negro of the tobacconists' shops I ever saw, was called Moroa Majane, or + son of Majane, and proved an active guide across the River Sonta, and to + the banks of the Chobe, in the country of Sebituane. We had come through + another tsetse district by night, and at once passed our cattle over to + the northern bank to preserve them from its ravages. + </p> + <p> + A few remarks on the Tsetse, or 'Glossina morsitans', may here be + appropriate. It is not much larger than the common house-fly, and is + nearly of the same brown color as the common honey-bee; the after part of + the body has three or four yellow bars across it; the wings project beyond + this part considerably, and it is remarkably alert, avoiding most + dexterously all attempts to capture it with the hand at common + temperatures; in the cool of the mornings and evenings it is less agile. + Its peculiar buzz when once heard can never be forgotten by the traveler + whose means of locomotion are domestic animals; for it is well known that + the bite of this poisonous insect is certain death to the ox, horse, and + dog. In this journey, though we were not aware of any great number having + at any time lighted on our cattle, we lost forty-three fine oxen by its + bite. We watched the animals carefully, and believe that not a score of + flies were ever upon them. + </p> + <p> + A most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is its perfect + harmlessness in man and wild animals, and even calves, so long as they + continue to suck the cows. We never experienced the slightest injury from + them ourselves, personally, although we lived two months in their HABITAT, + which was in this case as sharply defined as in many others, for the south + bank of the Chobe was infested by them, and the northern bank, where our + cattle were placed, only fifty yards distant, contained not a single + specimen. This was the more remarkable, as we often saw natives carrying + over raw meat to the opposite bank with many tsetse settled upon it. + </p> + <p> + The poison does not seem to be injected by a sting, or by ova placed + beneath the skin; for, when one is allowed to feed freely on the hand, it + is seen to insert the middle prong of three portions, into which the + proboscis divides, somewhat deeply into the true skin; it then draws it + out a little way, and it assumes a crimson color as the mandibles come + into brisk operation. The previously shrunken belly swells out, and, if + left undisturbed, the fly quietly departs when it is full. A slight + itching irritation follows, but not more than in the bite of a mosquito. + In the ox this same bite produces no more immediate effects than in man. + It does not startle him as the gad-fly does; but a few days afterward the + following symptoms supervene: the eye and nose begin to run, the coat + stares as if the animal were cold, a swelling appears under the jaw, and + sometimes at the navel; and, though the animal continues to graze, + emaciation commences, accompanied with a peculiar flaccidity of the + muscles, and this proceeds unchecked until, perhaps months afterward, + purging comes on, and the animal, no longer able to graze, perishes in a + state of extreme exhaustion. Those which are in good condition often + perish soon after the bite is inflicted with staggering and blindness, as + if the brain were affected by it. Sudden changes of temperature produced + by falls of rain seem to hasten the progress of the complaint; but, in + general, the emaciation goes on uninterruptedly for months, and, do what + we will, the poor animals perish miserably. + </p> + <p> + When opened, the cellular tissue on the surface of the body beneath the + skin is seen to be injected with air, as if a quantity of soap-bubbles + were scattered over it, or a dishonest, awkward butcher had been trying to + make it look fat. The fat is of a greenish-yellow color and of an oily + consistence. All the muscles are flabby, and the heart often so soft that + the fingers may be made to meet through it. The lungs and liver partake of + the disease. The stomach and bowels are pale and empty, and the + gall-bladder is distended with bile. + </p> + <p> + These symptoms seem to indicate what is probably the case, a poison in the + blood, the germ of which enters when the proboscis is inserted to draw + blood. The poison-germ, contained in a bulb at the root of the proboscis, + seems capable, although very minute in quantity, of reproducing itself, + for the blood after death by tsetse is very small in quantity, and + scarcely stains the hands in dissection. I shall have by-and-by to mention + another insect, which by the same operation produces in the human subject + both vomiting and purging. + </p> + <p> + The mule, ass, and goat enjoy the same immunity from the tsetse as man and + the game. Many large tribes on the Zambesi can keep no domestic animals + except the goat, in consequence of the scourge existing in their country. + Our children were frequently bitten, yet suffered no harm; and we saw + around us numbers of zebras, buffaloes, pigs, pallahs and other antelopes, + feeding quietly in the very habitat of the tsetse, yet as undisturbed by + its bite as oxen are when they first receive the fatal poison. There is + not so much difference in the natures of the horse and zebra, the buffalo + and ox, the sheep and antelope, as to afford any satisfactory explanation + of the phenomenon. Is a man not as much a domestic animal as a dog? The + curious feature in the case, that dogs perish though fed on milk, whereas + the calves escape so long as they continue sucking, made us imagine that + the mischief might be produced by some plant in the locality, and not by + tsetse; but Major Vardon, of the Madras Army, settled that point by riding + a horse up to a small hill infested by the insect without allowing him + time to graze, and, though he only remained long enough to take a view of + the country and catch some specimens of tsetse on the animal, in ten days + afterward the horse was dead. + </p> + <p> + The well-known disgust which the tsetse shows to animal excreta, as + exhibited when a village is placed in its habitat, has been observed and + turned to account by some of the doctors. They mix droppings of animals, + human milk, and some medicines together, and smear the animals that are + about to pass through a tsetse district; but this, though it proves a + preventive at the time, is not permanent. There is no cure yet known for + the disease. A careless herdsman allowing a large number of cattle to + wander into a tsetse district loses all except the calves; and Sebituane + once lost nearly the entire cattle of his tribe, very many thousands, by + unwittingly coming under its influence. Inoculation does not insure + immunity, as animals which have been slightly bitten in one year may + perish by a greater number of bites in the next; but it is probable that + with the increase of guns the game will perish, as has happened in the + south, and the tsetse, deprived of food, may become extinct simultaneously + with the larger animals. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo whom we met on the Chobe were delighted to see us; and as + their chief Sebituane was about twenty miles down the river, Mr. Oswell + and I proceeded in canoes to his temporary residence. He had come from the + Barotse town of Naliele down to Sesheke as soon as he heard of white men + being in search of him, and now came one hundred miles more to bid us + welcome into his country. He was upon an island, with all his principal + men around him, and engaged in singing when we arrived. It was more like + church music than the sing-song ee ee ee, ae ae ae, of the Bechuanas of + the south, and they continued the tune for some seconds after we + approached. We informed him of the difficulties we had encountered, and + how glad we were that they were all at an end by at last reaching his + presence. He signified his own joy, and added, "Your cattle are all bitten + by the tsetse, and will certainly die; but never mind, I have oxen, and + will give you as many as you need." We, in our ignorance, then thought + that as so few tsetse had bitten them no great mischief would follow. He + then presented us with an ox and a jar of honey as food, and handed us + over to the care of Mahale, who had headed the party to Kolobeng, and + would now fain appropriate to himself the whole credit of our coming. + Prepared skins of oxen, as soft as cloth, were given to cover us through + the night; and, as nothing could be returned to this chief, Mahale became + the owner of them. Long before it was day Sebituane came, and sitting down + by the fire, which was lighted for our benefit behind the hedge where we + lay, he narrated the difficulties he had himself experienced, when a young + man, in crossing that same desert which we had mastered long afterward. As + he has been most remarkable in his career, and was unquestionably the + greatest man in all that country, a short sketch of his life may prove + interesting to the reader. + </p> + <p> + Sebituane was about forty-five years of age; of a tall and wiry form, an + olive or coffee-and-milk color, and slightly bald; in manner cool and + collected, and more frank in his answers than any other chief I ever met. + He was the greatest warrior ever heard of beyond the colony; for, unlike + Mosilikatse, Dingaan, and others, he always led his men into battle + himself. When he saw the enemy, he felt the edge of his battle-axe, and + said, "Aha! it is sharp, and whoever turns his back on the enemy will feel + its edge." So fleet of foot was he, that all his people knew there was no + escape for the coward, as any such would be cut down without mercy. In + some instances of skulking he allowed the individual to return home; then + calling him, he would say, "Ah! you prefer dying at home to dying in the + field, do you? You shall have your desire." This was the signal for his + immediate execution. + </p> + <p> + He came from the country near the sources of the Likwa and Namagari rivers + in the south, so we met him eight hundred or nine hundred miles from his + birth-place. He was not the son of a chief, though related closely to the + reigning family of the Basutu; and when, in an attack by Sikonyele, the + tribe was driven out of one part, Sebituane was one in that immense horde + of savages driven back by the Griquas from Kuruman in 1824.* He then fled + to the north with an insignificant party of men and cattle. At Melita the + Bangwaketse collected the Bakwains, Bakatla, and Bahurutse, to "eat them + up". Placing his men in front, and the women behind the cattle, he routed + the whole of his enemies at one blow. Having thus conquered Makabe, the + chief of the Bangwaketse, he took immediate possession of his town and all + his goods. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * See an account of this affair in Moffat's "Missionary + Enterprise in Africa". +</pre> + <p> + Sebituane subsequently settled at the place called Litubaruba, where + Sechele now dwells, and his people suffered severely in one of those + unrecorded attacks by white men, in which murder is committed and + materials laid up in the conscience for a future judgment. + </p> + <p> + A great variety of fortune followed him in the northern part of the + Bechuana country; twice he lost all his cattle by the attacks of the + Matabele, but always kept his people together, and retook more than he + lost. He then crossed the Desert by nearly the same path that we did. He + had captured a guide, and, as it was necessary to travel by night in order + to reach water, the guide took advantage of this and gave him the slip. + After marching till morning, and going as they thought right, they found + themselves on the trail of the day before. Many of his cattle burst away + from him in the phrensy of thirst, and rushed back to Serotli, then a + large piece of water, and to Mashue and Lopepe, the habitations of their + original owners. He stocked himself again among the Batletli, on Lake + Kumadau, whose herds were of the large-horned species of cattle.* + Conquering all around the lake, he heard of white men living at the west + coast; and, haunted by what seems to have been the dream of his whole + life, a desire to have intercourse with the white man, he passed away to + the southwest, into the parts opened up lately by Messrs. Galton and + Andersson. There, suffering intensely from thirst, he and his party came + to a small well. He decided that the men, not the cattle, should drink it, + the former being of most value, as they could fight for more should these + be lost. In the morning they found the cattle had escaped to the Damaras. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * We found the Batauana in possession of this breed when we + discovered Lake Ngami. One of these horns, brought to England + by Major Vardon, will hold no less than twenty-one imperial + pints of water; and a pair, brought by Mr. Oswell, and now in + the possession of Colonel Steele, measures from tip to tip + eight and a half feet. +</pre> + <p> + Returning to the north poorer than he started, he ascended the Teoughe to + the hill Sorila, and crossed over a swampy country to the eastward. + Pursuing his course onward to the low-lying basin of the Leeambye, he saw + that it presented no attraction to a pastoral tribe like his, so he moved + down that river among the Bashubia and Batoka, who were then living in all + their glory. His narrative resembled closely the "Commentaries of Caesar", + and the history of the British in India. He was always forced to attack + the different tribes, and to this day his men justify every step he took + as perfectly just and right. The Batoka lived on large islands in the + Leeambye or Zambesi, and, feeling perfectly secure in their fastnesses, + often allured fugitive or wandering tribes on to uninhabited islets on + pretense of ferrying them across, and there left them to perish for the + sake of their goods. Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato, was, when a + child, in danger of meeting this fate; but a man still living had + compassion on him, and enabled his mother to escape with him by night. The + river is so large that the sharpest eye can not tell the difference + between an island and the bend of the opposite bank; but Sebituane, with + his usual foresight, requested the island chief who ferried him across to + take his seat in the canoe with him, and detained him by his side till all + his people and cattle were safely landed. The whole Batoka country was + then densely peopled, and they had a curious taste for ornamenting their + villages with the skulls of strangers. When Sebituane appeared near the + great falls, an immense army collected to make trophies of the Makololo + skulls; but, instead of succeeding in this, they gave him a good excuse + for conquering them, and capturing so many cattle that his people were + quite incapable of taking any note of the sheep and goats. He overran all + the high lands toward the Kafue, and settled in what is called a pastoral + country, of gently undulating plains, covered with short grass and but + little forest. The Makololo have never lost their love for this fine, + healthy region. + </p> + <p> + But the Matebele, a Caffre or Zulu tribe, under Mosilikatse, crossed the + Zambesi, and, attacking Sebituane in this choice spot, captured his cattle + and women. Rallying his men, he followed and recaptured the whole. A fresh + attack was also repulsed, and Sebituane thought of going farther down the + Zambesi, to the country of the white men. He had an idea, whence imbibed I + never could learn, that if he had a cannon he might live in peace. He had + led a life of war, yet no one apparently desired peace more than he did. A + prophet induced him to turn his face again to the westward. This man, by + name Tlapane, was called a "senoga"—one who holds intercourse with + the gods. He probably had a touch of insanity, for he was in the habit of + retiring no one knew whither, but perhaps into some cave, to remain in a + hypnotic or mesmeric state until the moon was full. Then, returning to the + tribe quite emaciated, he excited himself, as others do who pretend to the + prophetic AFFLATUS, until he was in a state of ecstasy. These pretended + prophets commence their operations by violent action of the voluntary + muscles. Stamping, leaping, and shouting in a peculiarly violent manner, + or beating the ground with a club, they induce a kind of fit, and while in + it pretend that their utterances are unknown to themselves. Tlapane, + pointing eastward, said, "There, Sebituane, I behold a fire: shun it; it + is a fire which may scorch thee. The gods say, go not thither." Then, + turning to the west, he said, "I see a city and a nation of black men—men + of the water; their cattle are red; thine own tribe, Sebituane, is + perishing, and will be all consumed; thou wilt govern black men, and, when + thy warriors have captured red cattle, let not the owners be killed; they + are thy future tribe—they are thy city; let them be spared to cause + thee to build. And thou, Ramosinii, thy village will perish utterly. If + Mokari removes from that village he will perish first, and thou, + Ramosinii, wilt be the last to die." Concerning himself he added, "The + gods have caused other men to drink water, but to me they have given + bitter water of the chukuru (rhinoceros). They call me away myself. I can + not stay much longer." + </p> + <p> + This vaticination, which loses much in the translation, I have given + rather fully, as it shows an observant mind. The policy recommended was + wise, and the deaths of the "senoga" and of the two men he had named, + added to the destruction of their village, having all happened soon after, + it is not wonderful that Sebituane followed implicitly the warning voice. + The fire pointed to was evidently the Portuguese fire-arms, of which he + must have heard. The black men referred to were the Barotse, or, as they + term themselves, Baloiana; and Sebituane spared their chiefs, even though + they attacked him first. He had ascended the Barotse valley, but was + pursued by the Matebele, as Mosilikatse never could forgive his former + defeats. They came up the river in a very large body. Sebituane placed + some goats on one of the large islands of the Zambesi as a bait to the + warriors, and some men in canoes to co-operate in the manoeuvre. When they + were all ferried over to the island, the canoes were removed, and the + Matebele found themselves completely in a trap, being perfectly unable to + swim. They subsisted for some time on the roots of grass after the goats + were eaten, but gradually became so emaciated that, when the Makololo + landed, they had only to perform the part of executioners on the adults, + and to adopt the rest into their own tribe. Afterward Mosilikatse was + goaded on by his warriors to revenge this loss; so he sent an immense + army, carrying canoes with them, in order that no such mishap might occur + again. Sebituane had by this time incorporated the Barotse, and taught his + young men to manage canoes; so he went from island to island, and watched + the Matebele on the main land so closely that they could not use their + canoes to cross the river any where without parting their forces. At last + all the Makololo and their cattle were collected on the island of Loyelo, + and lay all around, keeping watch night and day over the enemy. After some + time spent in this way, Sebituane went in a canoe toward them, and, + addressing them by an interpreter, asked why they wished to kill him; he + had never attacked them, never harmed their chief: "Au!" he continued, + "the guilt is on your side." The Matebele made no reply; but the Makololo + next day saw the canoes they had carried so far lying smashed, and the + owners gone. They returned toward their own country, and fever, famine, + and the Batoka completed their destruction; only five men returned to + Mosilikatse. + </p> + <p> + Sebituane had now not only conquered all the black tribes over an immense + tract of country, but had made himself dreaded even by the terrible + Mosilikatse. He never could trust this ferocious chief, however; and, as + the Batoka on the islands had been guilty of ferrying his enemies across + the Zambesi, he made a rapid descent upon them, and swept them all out of + their island fastnesses. He thus unwittingly performed a good service to + the country by completely breaking down the old system which prevented + trade from penetrating into the great central valley. Of the chiefs who + escaped, he said, "They love Mosilikatse, let them live with him: the + Zambesi is my line of defense;" and men were placed all along it as + sentinels. When he heard of our wish to visit him, he did all he could to + assist our approach. Sechele, Sekomi, and Lechulatebe owed their lives to + his clemency; and the latter might have paid dearly for his + obstructiveness. Sebituane knew every thing that happened in the country, + for he had the art of gaining the affections both of his own people and of + strangers. When a party of poor men came to his town to sell their hoes or + skins, no matter how ungainly they might be, he soon knew them all. A + company of these indigent strangers, sitting far apart from the Makololo + gentlemen around the chief, would be surprised to see him come alone to + them, and, sitting down, inquire if they were hungry. He would order an + attendant to bring meal, milk, and honey, and, mixing them in their sight, + in order to remove any suspicion from their minds, make them feast, + perhaps for the first time in their lives, on a lordly dish. Delighted + beyond measure with his affability and liberality, they felt their hearts + warm toward him, and gave him all the information in their power; and as + he never allowed a party of strangers to go away without giving every one + of them, servants and all, a present, his praises were sounded far and + wide. "He has a heart! he is wise!" were the usual expressions we heard + before we saw him. + </p> + <p> + He was much pleased with the proof of confidence we had shown in bringing + our children, and promised to take us to see his country, so that we might + choose a part in which to locate ourselves. Our plan was, that I should + remain in the pursuit of my objects as a missionary, while Mr. Oswell + explored the Zambesi to the east. Poor Sebituane, however, just after + realizing what he had so long ardently desired, fell sick of inflammation + of the lungs, which originated in and extended from an old wound got at + Melita. I saw his danger, but, being a stranger, I feared to treat him + medically, lest, in the event of his death, I should be blamed by his + people. I mentioned this to one of his doctors, who said, "Your fear is + prudent and wise; this people would blame you." He had been cured of this + complaint, during the year before, by the Barotse making a large number of + free incisions in the chest. The Makololo doctors, on the other hand, now + scarcely cut the skin. On the Sunday afternoon in which he died, when our + usual religious service was over, I visited him with my little boy Robert. + "Come near," said Sebituane, "and see if I am any longer a man. I am + done." He was thus sensible of the dangerous nature of his disease, so I + ventured to assent, and added a single sentence regarding hope after + death. "Why do you speak of death?" said one of a relay of fresh doctors; + "Sebituane will never die." If I had persisted, the impression would have + been produced that by speaking about it I wished him to die. After sitting + with him some time, and commending him to the mercy of God, I rose to + depart, when the dying chieftain, raising himself up a little from his + prone position, called a servant, and said, "Take Robert to Maunku (one of + his wives), and tell her to give him some milk." These were the last words + of Sebituane. + </p> + <p> + We were not informed of his death until the next day. The burial of a + Bechuana chief takes place in his cattle-pen, and all the cattle are + driven for an hour or two around and over the grave, so that it may be + quite obliterated. We went and spoke to the people, advising them to keep + together and support the heir. They took this kindly; and in turn told us + not to be alarmed, for they would not think of ascribing the death of + their chief to us; that Sebituane had just gone the way of his fathers; + and though the father had gone, he had left children, and they hoped that + we would be as friendly to his children as we intended to have been to + himself. + </p> + <p> + He was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief I ever met. I never + felt so much grieved by the loss of a black man before; and it was + impossible not to follow him in thought into the world of which he had + just heard before he was called away, and to realize somewhat of the + feelings of those who pray for the dead. The deep, dark question of what + is to become of such as he, must, however, be left where we find it, + believing that, assuredly, the "Judge of all the earth will do right." + </p> + <p> + At Sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved, as her father intended, + on a daughter named Ma-mochisane. He had promised to show us his country + and to select a suitable locality for our residence. We had now to look to + the daughter, who was living twelve days to the north, at Naliele. We were + obliged, therefore, to remain until a message came from her; and when it + did, she gave us perfect liberty to visit any part of the country we + chose. Mr. Oswell and I then proceeded one hundred and thirty miles to the + northeast, to Sesheke; and in the end of June, 1851, we were rewarded by + the discovery of the Zambesi, in the centre of the continent. This was a + most important point, for that river was not previously known to exist + there at all. The Portuguese maps all represent it as rising far to the + east of where we now were; and if ever any thing like a chain of trading + stations had existed across the country between the latitudes 12 Deg. and + 18 Deg. south, this magnificent portion of the river must have been known + before. We saw it at the end of the dry season, at the time when the river + is about at its lowest, and yet there was a breadth of from three hundred + to six hundred yards of deep flowing water. Mr. Oswell said he had never + seen such a fine river, even in India. At the period of its annual + inundation it rises fully twenty feet in perpendicular height, and floods + fifteen or twenty miles of lands adjacent to its banks. + </p> + <p> + The country over which we had traveled from the Chobe was perfectly flat, + except where there were large ant-hills, or the remains of former ones, + which had left mounds a few feet high. These are generally covered with + wild date-trees and palmyras, and in some parts there are forests of + mimosae and mopane. Occasionally the country between the Chobe and Zambesi + is flooded, and there are large patches of swamps lying near the Chobe or + on its banks. The Makololo were living among these swamps for the sake of + the protection the deep reedy rivers afforded them against their enemies. + </p> + <p> + Now, in reference to a suitable locality for a settlement for myself, I + could not conscientiously ask them to abandon their defenses for my + convenience alone. The healthy districts were defenseless, and the safe + localities were so deleterious to human life, that the original Basutos + had nearly all been cut off by the fever; I therefore feared to subject my + family to the scourge. + </p> + <p> + As we were the very first white men the inhabitants had ever seen, we were + visited by prodigious numbers. Among the first who came to see us was a + gentleman who appeared in a gaudy dressing-gown of printed calico. Many of + the Makololo, besides, had garments of blue, green, and red baize, and + also of printed cottons; on inquiry, we learned that these had been + purchased, in exchange for boys, from a tribe called Mambari, which is + situated near Bihe. This tribe began the slave-trade with Sebituane only + in 1850, and but for the unwillingness of Lechulatebe to allow us to pass, + we should have been with Sebituane in time to have prevented it from + commencing at all. The Mambari visited in ancient times the chief of the + Barotse, whom Sebituane conquered, and he refused to allow any one to sell + a child. They never came back again till 1850; and as they had a number of + old Portuguese guns marked "Legitimo de Braga", which Sebituane thought + would be excellent in any future invasion of Matebele, he offered to + purchase them with cattle or ivory, but the Mambari refused every thing + except boys about fourteen years of age. The Makololo declare they never + heard of people being bought and sold till then, and disliked it, but the + desire to possess the guns prevailed, and eight old guns were exchanged + for as many boys; these were not their own children, but captives of the + black races they had conquered. I have never known in Africa an instance + of a parent selling his own offspring. The Makololo were afterward incited + to make a foray against some tribes to the eastward; the Mambari + bargaining to use their guns in the attack for the captives they might + take, and the Makololo were to have all the cattle. They went off with at + least two hundred slaves that year. During this foray the Makololo met + some Arabs from Zanzibar, who presented them with three English muskets, + and in return received about thirty of their captives. + </p> + <p> + In talking with my companions over these matters, the idea was suggested + that, if the slave-market were supplied with articles of European + manufacture by legitimate commerce, the trade in slaves would become + impossible. It seemed more feasible to give the goods, for which the + people now part with their servants, in exchange for ivory and other + products of the country, and thus prevent the trade at the beginning, than + to try to put a stop to it at any of the subsequent steps. This could only + be effected by establishing a highway from the coast into the centre of + the country. + </p> + <p> + As there was no hope of the Boers allowing the peaceable instruction of + the natives at Kolobeng, I at once resolved to save my family from + exposure to this unhealthy region by sending them to England, and to + return alone, with a view to exploring the country in search of a healthy + district that might prove a centre of civilization, and open up the + interior by a path to either the east or west coast. This resolution led + me down to the Cape in April, 1852, being the first time during eleven + years that I had visited the scenes of civilization. Our route to Cape + Town led us to pass through the centre of the colony during the twentieth + month of a Caffre war; and if those who periodically pay enormous sums for + these inglorious affairs wish to know how our little unprotected party + could quietly travel through the heart of the colony to the capital with + as little sense or sign of danger as if we had been in England, they must + engage a "'Times' Special Correspondent" for the next outbreak to explain + where the money goes, and who have been benefited by the blood and + treasure expended. + </p> + <p> + Having placed my family on board a homeward-bound ship, and promised to + rejoin them in two years, we parted, for, as it subsequently proved, + nearly five years. The Directors of the London Missionary Society + signified their cordial approval of my project by leaving the matter + entirely to my own discretion; and I have much pleasure in acknowledging + my obligations to the gentlemen composing that body for always acting in + an enlightened spirit, and with as much liberality as their constitution + would allow. + </p> + <p> + I have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness to the Astronomer + Royal at the Cape, Thomas Maclear, Esq., for enabling me to recall the + little astronomical knowledge which constant manual labor and the + engrossing nature of missionary duties had effaced from my memory, and in + adding much that I did not know before. The promise he made on parting, + that he would examine and correct all my observations, had more effect in + making me persevere in overcoming the difficulties of an unassisted + solitary observer than any thing else; so whatever credit may be attached + to the geographical positions laid down in my route must be attributed to + the voluntary aid of the excellent and laborious astronomer of the Cape + observatory. + </p> + <p> + Having given the reader as rapid a sketch as possible of events which + attracted notice between 1840 and 1852, I now proceed to narrate the + incidents of the last and longest journey of all, performed in 1852-6. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 5. + </h2> + <p> + Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest Journey from Cape Town— + Companions—Wagon-traveling—Physical Divisions of Africa—The + Eastern, Central, and Western Zones—The Kalahari Desert—Its + Vegetation—Increasing Value of the Interior for Colonization— + Our Route—Dutch Boers—Their Habits—Sterile Appearance of + the District—Failure of Grass—Succeeded by other Plants— + Vines—Animals—The Boers as Farmers—Migration of + Springbucks— Wariness of Animals—The Orange River—Territory + of the Griquas and Bechuanas—The Griquas—The Chief Waterboer—His + wise and energetic Government—His Fidelity—Ill-considered + Measures of the Colonial Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder—Success + of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas—Manifest + Improvement of the native Character—Dress of the Natives—A + full-dress Costume—A Native's Description of the Natives—Articles + of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas—Their Unwillingness to + learn, and Readiness to criticise. + </p> + <p> + Having sent my family home to England, I started in the beginning of June, + 1852, on my last journey from Cape Town. This journey extended from the + southern extremity of the continent to St. Paul de Loando, the capital of + Angola, on the west coast, and thence across South Central Africa in an + oblique direction to Kilimane (Quilimane) in Eastern Africa. I proceeded + in the usual conveyance of the country, the heavy, lumbering Cape wagon + drawn by ten oxen, and was accompanied by two Christian Bechuanas from + Kuruman—than whom I never saw better servants any where—by two + Bakwain men, and two young girls, who, having come as nurses with our + children to the Cape, were returning to their home at Kolobeng. + Wagon-traveling in Africa has been so often described that I need say no + more than that it is a prolonged system of picnicking, excellent for the + health, and agreeable to those who are not over-fastidious about trifles, + and who delight in being in the open air. + </p> + <p> + Our route to the north lay near the centre of the cone-shaped mass of land + which constitutes the promontory of the Cape. If we suppose this cone to + be divided into three zones or longitudinal bands, we find each presenting + distinct peculiarities of climate, physical appearance and population. + These are more marked beyond than within the colony. At some points one + district seems to be continued in and to merge into the other, but the + general dissimilarity warrants the division, as an aid to memory. The + eastern zone is often furnished with mountains, well wooded with evergreen + succulent trees, on which neither fire nor droughts can have the smallest + effect ('Strelitzia', 'Zamia horrida', 'Portulacaria afra', 'Schotia + speciosa', 'Euphorbias', and 'Aloes arborescens'); and its seaboard gorges + are clad with gigantic timber. It is also comparatively well watered with + streams and flowing rivers. The annual supply of rain is considerable, and + the inhabitants (Caffres or Zulus) are tall, muscular, and well made; they + are shrewd, energetic, and brave; altogether they merit the character + given them by military authorities, of being "magnificent savages". Their + splendid physical development and form of skull show that, but for the + black skin and woolly hair, they would take rank among the foremost + Europeans. + </p> + <p> + The next division, that which embraces the centre of the continent, can + scarcely be called hilly, for what hills there are are very low. It + consists for the most part of extensive, slightly undulating plains. There + are no lofty mountains, but few springs, and still fewer flowing streams. + Rain is far from abundant, and droughts may be expected every few years. + Without artificial irrigation no European grain can be raised, and the + inhabitants (Bechuanas), though evidently of the same stock, originally, + with those already mentioned, and closely resembling them in being an + agricultural as well as a pastoral people, are a comparatively timid race, + and inferior to the Caffres in physical development. + </p> + <p> + The western division is still more level than the middle one, being rugged + only near the coast. It includes the great plain called the Kalahari + Desert, which is remarkable for little water and very considerable + vegetation. + </p> + <p> + The reason, probably, why so little rain falls on this extensive plain is + that the prevailing winds of most of the interior country are easterly, + with a little southing. The moisture taken up by the atmosphere from the + Indian Ocean is deposited on the eastern hilly slope; and when the moving + mass of air reaches its greatest elevation, it is then on the verge of the + great valley, or, as in the case of the Kalahari, the great heated inland + plains; there, meeting with the rarefied air of that hot, dry surface, the + ascending heat gives it greater capacity for retaining all its remaining + humidity, and few showers can be given to the middle and western lands in + consequence of the increased hygrometric power. + </p> + <p> + This is the same phenomenon, on a gigantic scale, as that which takes + place on Table Mountain, at the Cape, in what is called the spreading of + the "table-cloth". The southeast wind causes a mass of air, equal to the + diameter of the mountain, suddenly to ascend at least three thousand feet; + the dilatation produced by altitude, with its attendant cold, causes the + immediate formation of a cloud on the summit; the water in the atmosphere + becomes visible; successive masses of gliding-up and passing-over air + cause the continual formation of clouds, but the top of the vapory mass, + or "table-cloth", is level, and seemingly motionless; on the lee side, + however, the thick volumes of vapor curl over and descend, but when they + reach the point below, where greater density and higher temperature impart + enlarged capacity for carrying water, they entirely disappear. + </p> + <p> + Now if, instead of a hollow on the lee side of Table Mountain, we had an + elevated heated plain, the clouds which curl over that side, and disappear + as they do at present when a "southeaster" is blowing, might deposit some + moisture on the windward ascent and top; but the heat would then impart + the increased capacity the air now receives at the lower level in its + descent to leeward, and, instead of an extended country with a flora of + the 'Disa grandiflora', 'gladiolus', 'rushes', and 'lichens', which now + appear on Table Mountain, we should have only the hardy vegetation of the + Kalahari. + </p> + <p> + Why there should be so much vegetation on the Kalahari may be explained by + the geological formation of the country. There is a rim or fringe of + ancient rocks round a great central valley, which, dipping inward, form a + basin, the bottom of which is composed of the oldest silurian rocks. This + basin has been burst through and filled up in many parts by eruptive traps + and breccias, which often bear in their substances angular fragments of + the more ancient rocks, as shown in the fossils they contain. Now, though + large areas have been so dislocated that but little trace of the original + valley formation appears, it is highly probable that the basin shape + prevails over large tracts of the country; and as the strata on the + slopes, where most of the rain falls, dip in toward the centre, they + probably guide water beneath the plains but ill supplied with moisture + from the clouds. The phenomenon of stagnant fountains becoming by a new + and deeper outlet never-failing streams may be confirmatory of the view + that water is conveyed from the sides of the country into the bottom of + the central valley; and it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that + the wonderful river system in the north, which, if native information be + correct, causes a considerable increase of water in the springs called + Matlomagan-yana (the Links), extends its fertilizing influence beneath the + plains of the Kalahari. + </p> + <p> + The peculiar formation of the country may explain why there is such a + difference in the vegetation between the 20th and 30th parallels of + latitude in South Africa and the same latitudes in Central Australia. The + want of vegetation is as true of some parts too in the centre of South + America as of Australia; and the cause of the difference holds out a + probability for the success of artesian wells in extensive tracts of + Africa now unpeopled solely on account of the want of surface water. We + may be allowed to speculate a little at least on the fact of much greater + vegetation, which, from whatever source it comes, presents for South + Africa prospects of future greatness which we can not hope for in Central + Australia. As the interior districts of the Cape Colony are daily becoming + of higher value, offering to honest industry a fair remuneration for + capital, and having a climate unequaled in salubrity for consumptive + patients, I should unhesitatingly recommend any farmer at all afraid of + that complaint in his family to try this colony. With the means of + education already possessed, and the onward and upward movement of the + Cape population, he need entertain no apprehensions of his family sinking + into barbarism. + </p> + <p> + The route we at this time followed ran along the middle, or skirted the + western zone before alluded to, until we reached the latitude of Lake + Ngami, where a totally different country begins. While in the colony, we + passed through districts inhabited by the descendants of Dutch and French + refugees who had fled from religious persecution. Those living near the + capital differ but little from the middle classes in English counties, and + are distinguished by public spirit and general intelligence; while those + situated far from the centres of civilization are less informed, but are a + body of frugal, industrious, and hospitable peasantry. A most efficient + system of public instruction was established in the time of Governor Sir + George Napier, on a plan drawn up in a great measure by that accomplished + philosopher, Sir John Herschel. The system had to contend with less + sectarian rancor than elsewhere; indeed, until quite recently, that + spirit, except in a mild form, was unknown. + </p> + <p> + The population here described ought not to be confounded with some Boers + who fled from British rule on account of the emancipation of their + Hottentot slaves, and perhaps never would have been so had not every now + and then some Rip Van Winkle started forth at the Cape to justify in the + public prints the deeds of blood and slave-hunting in the far interior. It + is therefore not to be wondered at if the whole race is confounded and + held in low estimation by those who do not know the real composition of + the Cape community. + </p> + <p> + Population among the Boers increases rapidly; they marry soon, are seldom + sterile, and continue to have children late. I once met a worthy matron + whose husband thought it right to imitate the conduct of Abraham while + Sarah was barren; she evidently agreed in the propriety of the measure, + for she was pleased to hear the children by a mother of what has been + thought an inferior race address her as their mother. Orphans are never + allowed to remain long destitute; and instances are frequent in which a + tender-hearted farmer has adopted a fatherless child, and when it came of + age portioned it as his own. + </p> + <p> + Two centuries of the South African climate have not had much effect upon + the physical condition of the Boers. They are a shade darker, or rather + ruddier, than Europeans, and are never cadaverous-looking, as descendants + of Europeans are said to be elsewhere. There is a tendency to the + development of steatopyga, so characteristic of Arabs and other African + tribes; and it is probable that the interior Boers in another century will + become in color what the learned imagine our progenitors, Adam and Eve, to + have been. + </p> + <p> + The parts of the colony through which we passed were of sterile aspect; + and, as the present winter had been preceded by a severe drought, many + farmers had lost two thirds of their stock. The landscape was uninviting; + the hills, destitute of trees, were of a dark brown color, and the scanty + vegetation on the plains made me feel that they deserved the name of + Desert more than the Kalahari. When first taken possession of, these parts + are said to have been covered with a coating of grass, but that has + disappeared with the antelopes which fed upon it, and a crop of + mesembryanthemums and crassulas occupies its place. It is curious to + observe how, in nature, organizations the most dissimilar are mutually + dependent on each other for their perpetuation. Here the original grasses + were dependent for dissemination on the grass-feeding animals, which + scattered the seeds. When, by the death of the antelopes, no fresh sowing + was made, the African droughts proved too much for this form of + vegetation. But even this contingency was foreseen by the Omniscient One; + for, as we may now observe in the Kalahari Desert, another family of + plants, the mesembryanthemums, stood ready to neutralize the aridity which + must otherwise have followed. This family of plants possesses seed-vessels + which remain firmly shut on their contents while the soil is hot and dry, + and thus preserve the vegetative power intact during the highest heat of + the torrid sun; but when rain falls, the seed-vessel opens and sheds its + contents just when there is the greatest probability of their vegetating. + In other plants heat and drought cause the seed-vessels to burst and shed + their charge. + </p> + <p> + One of this family is edible ('Mesembryanthemum edule'); another possesses + a tuberous root, which may be eaten raw; and all are furnished with thick, + fleshy leaves, having pores capable of imbibing and retaining moisture + from a very dry atmosphere and soil, so that, if a leaf is broken during a + period of the greatest drought, it shows abundant circulating sap. The + plants of this family are found much farther north, but the great + abundance of the grasses prevents them from making any show. There, + however, they stand ready to fill up any gap which may occur in the + present prevailing vegetation; and should the grasses disappear, animal + life would not necessarily be destroyed, because a reserve supply, + equivalent to a fresh act of creative power, has been provided. + </p> + <p> + One of this family, 'M. turbiniforme', is so colored as to blend in well + with the hue of the soil and stones around it; and a 'gryllus' of the same + color feeds on it. In the case of the insect, the peculiar color is given + as compensation for the deficiency of the powers of motion to enable it to + elude the notice of birds. The continuation of the species is here the end + in view. In the case of the plant the same device is adopted for a sort of + double end, viz., perpetuation of the plant by hiding it from animals, + with the view that ultimately its extensive appearance will sustain that + race. + </p> + <p> + As this new vegetation is better adapted for sheep and goats in a dry + country than grass, the Boers supplant the latter by imitating the process + by which graminivorous antelopes have so abundantly disseminated the seed + of grasses. A few wagon-loads of mesembryanthemum plants, in seed, are + brought to a farm covered with a scanty crop of coarse grass, and placed + on a spot to which the sheep have access in the evenings. As they eat a + little every night, the seeds are dropped over the grazing grounds in this + simple way, with a regularity which could not be matched except at the + cost of an immense amount of labor. The place becomes in the course of a + few years a sheep-farm, as these animals thrive on such herbage. As + already mentioned, some plants of this family are furnished with an + additional contrivance for withstanding droughts, viz., oblong tubers, + which, buried deep enough beneath the soil for complete protection from + the scorching sun, serve as reservoirs of sap and nutriment during those + rainless periods which recur perpetually in even the most favored spots of + Africa. I have adverted to this peculiarity as often seen in the + vegetation of the Desert; and, though rather out of place, it may be well—while + noticing a clever imitation of one process in nature by the Cape farmers—to + suggest another for their consideration. The country beyond south lat. 18 + Deg. abounds in three varieties of grape-bearing vines, and one of these + is furnished with oblong tubers every three or four inches along the + horizontal root. They resemble closely those of the asparagus. This + increase of power to withstand the effects of climate might prove of value + in the more arid parts of the Cape colony, grapes being well known to be + an excellent restorative in the debility produced by heat: by ingrafting, + or by some of those curious manipulations which we read of in books on + gardening, a variety might be secured better adapted to the country than + the foreign vines at present cultivated. The Americans find that some of + their native vines yield wines superior to those made from the very best + imported vines from France and Portugal. What a boon a vine of the sort + contemplated would have been to a Rhenish missionary I met at a part in + the west of the colony called Ebenezer, whose children had never seen + flowers, though old enough to talk about them! + </p> + <p> + The slow pace at which we wound our way through the colony made almost any + subject interesting. The attention is attracted to the names of different + places, because they indicate the former existence of buffaloes, elands, + and elephants, which are now to be found only hundreds of miles beyond. A + few blesbucks ('Antilope pygarga'), gnus, bluebucks ('A. cerulea'), + steinbucks, and the ostrich ('Struthio camelus'), continue, like the + Bushmen, to maintain a precarious existence when all the rest are gone. + The elephant, the most sagacious, flees the sound of fire-arms first; the + gnu and ostrich, the most wary and the most stupid, last. The first + emigrants found the Hottentots in possession of prodigious herds of fine + cattle, but no horses, asses, or camels. The original cattle, which may + still be seen in some parts of the frontier, must have been brought south + from the north-northeast, for from this point the natives universally + ascribe their original migration. They brought cattle, sheep, goats, and + dogs; why not the horse, the delight of savage hordes? Horses thrive well + in the Cape Colony when imported. Naturalists point out certain mountain + ranges as limiting the habitat of certain classes of animals; but there is + no Cordillera in Africa to answer that purpose, there being no visible + barrier between the northeastern Arabs and the Hottentot tribes to prevent + the different hordes, as they felt their way southward, from indulging + their taste for the possession of this noble animal. + </p> + <p> + I am here led to notice an invisible barrier, more insurmountable than + mountain ranges, but which is not opposed to the southern progress of + cattle, goats, and sheep. The tsetse would prove a barrier only until its + well-defined habitat was known, but the disease passing under the term of + horse-sickness (peripneumonia) exists in such virulence over nearly seven + degrees of latitude that no precaution would be sufficient to save these + animals. The horse is so liable to this disease, that only by great care + in stabling can he be kept any where between 20 Deg. and 27 Deg. S. during + the time between December and April. The winter, beginning in the latter + month, is the only period in which Englishmen can hunt on horseback, and + they are in danger of losing all their studs some months before December. + To this disease the horse is especially exposed, and it is almost always + fatal. One attack, however, seems to secure immunity from a second. + Cattle, too, are subject to it, but only at intervals of a few, sometimes + many years; but it never makes a clean sweep of the whole cattle of a + village, as it would do of a troop of fifty horses. This barrier, then, + seems to explain the absence of the horse among the Hottentots, though it + is not opposed to the southern migration of cattle, sheep, and goats. + </p> + <p> + When the flesh of animals that have died of this disease is eaten, it + causes a malignant carbuncle, which, when it appears over any important + organ, proves rapidly fatal. It is more especially dangerous over the pit + of the stomach. The effects of the poison have been experienced by + missionaries who had eaten properly cooked food, the flesh of sheep really + but not visibly affected by the disease. The virus in the flesh of the + animal is destroyed neither by boiling nor roasting. This fact, of which + we have had innumerable examples, shows the superiority of experiments on + a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists and chemists in the + laboratory, for a well known physician of Paris, after careful + investigation, considered that the virus in such cases was completely + neutralized by boiling. + </p> + <p> + This disease attacks wild animals too. During our residence at Chonuan + great numbers of tolos, or koodoos, were attracted to the gardens of the + Bakwains, abandoned at the usual period of harvest because there was no + prospect of the corn ('Holcus sorghum') bearing that year. The koodoo is + remarkably fond of the green stalks of this kind of millet. Free feeding + produced that state of fatness favorable for the development of this + disease, and no fewer than twenty-five died on the hill opposite our + house. Great numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause, but + the mortality produced no sensible diminution in the numbers of the game, + any more than the deaths of many of the Bakwains who persisted, in spite + of every remonstrance, in eating the dead meat, caused any sensible + decrease in the strength of the tribe. + </p> + <p> + The farms of the Boers consist generally of a small patch of cultivated + land in the midst of some miles of pasturage. They are thus less an + agricultural than a pastoral people. Each farm must have its fountain; and + where no such supply of water exists, the government lands are unsalable. + An acre in England is thus generally more valuable than a square mile in + Africa. But the country is prosperous, and capable of great improvement. + The industry of the Boers augurs well for the future formation of dams and + tanks, and for the greater fruitfulness that would certainly follow. + </p> + <p> + As cattle and sheep farmers the colonists are very successful. Larger and + larger quantities of wool are produced annually, and the value of colonial + farms increases year by year. But the system requires that with the + increase of the population there should be an extension of territory. Wide + as the country is, and thinly inhabited, the farmers feel it to be too + limited, and they are gradually spreading to the north. This movement + proves prejudicial to the country behind, for labor, which would be + directed to the improvement of the colony, is withdrawn and expended in a + mode of life little adapted to the exercise of industrial habits. That, + however, does not much concern the rest of mankind. Nor does it seem much + of an evil for men who cultivate the soil to claim a right to appropriate + lands for tillage which other men only hunt over, provided some + compensation for the loss of sustenance be awarded. The original idea of a + title seems to have been that "subduing" or cultivating gave that right. + But this rather Chartist principle must be received with limitations, for + its recognition in England would lead to the seizure of all our broad + ancestral acres by those who are willing to cultivate them. And, in the + case under consideration, the encroachments lead at once to less land + being put under the plow than is subjected to the native hoe, for it is a + fact that the Basutos and Zulus, or Caffres of Natal, cultivate largely, + and undersell our farmers wherever they have a fair field and no favor. + </p> + <p> + Before we came to the Orange River we saw the last portion of a migration + of springbucks ('Gazella euchore', or tsepe). They come from the great + Kalahari Desert, and, when first seen after crossing the colonial + boundary, are said often to exceed forty thousand in number. I can not + give an estimate of their numbers, for they appear spread over a vast + expanse of country, and make a quivering motion as they feed, and move, + and toss their graceful horns. They feed chiefly on grass; and as they + come from the north about the time when the grass most abounds, it can not + be want of food that prompts the movement. Nor is it want of water, for + this antelope is one of the most abstemious in that respect. Their nature + prompts them to seek as their favorite haunts level plains with short + grass, where they may be able to watch the approach of an enemy. The + Bakalahari take advantage of this feeling, and burn off large patches of + grass, not only to attract the game by the new crop when it comes up, but + also to form bare spots for the springbuck to range over. + </p> + <p> + It is not the springbuck alone that manifests this feeling. When oxen are + taken into a country of high grass, they are much more ready to be + startled; their sense of danger is increased by the increased power of + concealment afforded to an enemy by such cover, and they will often start + off in terror at the ill-defined outlines of each other. The springbuck, + possessing this feeling in an intense degree, and being eminently + gregarious, becomes uneasy as the grass of the Kalahari becomes tall. The + vegetation being more sparse in the more arid south, naturally induces the + different herds to turn in that direction. As they advance and increase in + numbers, the pasturage becomes more scarce; it is still more so the + further they go, until they are at last obliged, in order to obtain the + means of subsistence, to cross the Orange River, and become the pest of + the sheep-farmer in a country which contains scarcely any of their + favorite grassy food. If they light on a field of wheat in their way, an + army of locusts could not make a cleaner sweep of the whole than they will + do. It is questionable whether they ever return, as they have never been + seen as a returning body. Many perish from want of food, the country to + which they have migrated being unable to support them; the rest become + scattered over the colony; and in such a wide country there is no lack of + room for all. It is probable that, notwithstanding the continued + destruction by fire-arms, they will continue long to hold their place. + </p> + <p> + On crossing the Orange River we come into independent territory inhabited + by Griquas and Bechuanas. By Griquas is meant any mixed race sprung from + natives and Europeans. Those in question were of Dutch extraction, through + association with Hottentot and Bushwomen. Half-castes of the first + generation consider themselves superior to those of the second, and all + possess in some degree the characteristics of both parents. They were + governed for many years by an elected chief, named Waterboer, who, by + treaty, received a small sum per annum from the colonial government for + the support of schools in his country, and proved a most efficient guard + of our northwest boundary. Cattle-stealing was totally unknown during the + whole period of this able chief's reign; and he actually drove back, + single-handed, a formidable force of marauding Mantatees that threatened + to invade the colony.* But for that brave Christian man, Waterboer, there + is every human probability that the northwest would have given the + colonists as much trouble as the eastern frontier; for large numbers among + the original Griquas had as little scruple about robbing farmers of cattle + as the Caffres are reputed to have. On the election of Waterboer to the + chieftainship, he distinctly declared THAT NO MARAUDING SHOULD BE ALLOWED. + As the government of none of these tribes is despotic, some of his + principal men, in spite of this declaration, plundered some villages of + Corannas living to the south of the Orange River. He immediately seized + six of the ringleaders, and, though the step put his own position in + jeopardy, he summoned his council, tried, condemned, and publicly executed + the whole six. This produced an insurrection, and the insurgents twice + attacked his capital, Griqua Town, with the intention of deposing him; but + he bravely defeated both attempts, and from that day forth, during his + long reign of thirty years, not a single plundering expedition ever left + his territory. Having witnessed the deleterious effects of the + introduction of ardent spirits among his people, he, with characteristic + energy, decreed that any Boer or Griqua bringing brandy into the country + should have his property in ardent spirits confiscated and poured out on + the ground. The Griqua chiefs living farther east were unable to carry + this law into effect as he did, hence the greater facility with which + Boers in that direction got the Griquas to part with their farms. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * For an account of this, see Moffat's "Scenes and Labors in + South Africa". +</pre> + <p> + Ten years after he was firmly established in power he entered into a + treaty with the colonial government, and during the twenty years which + followed not a single charge was ever brought against either him or his + people; on the contrary, his faithful adherence to the stipulated + provisions elicited numerous expressions of approbation from successive + governments. A late governor, however, of whom it is impossible to speak + without respect, in a paroxysm of generalship which might have been good, + had it not been totally inappropriate to the case, set about conciliating + a band of rebellious British subjects (Boers), who murdered the Honorable + Captain Murray, by proclaiming their independence while still in open + rebellion, and not only abrogated the treaty with the Griquas, but engaged + to stop the long-accustomed supplies of gunpowder for the defense of the + frontier, and even to prevent them from purchasing it for their own + defense by lawful trade. + </p> + <p> + If it had been necessary to prevent supplies of ammunition from finding + their way into the country, as it probably was, one might imagine that the + exception should not have been made in favor of either Boers or Caffres, + our openly-avowed enemies; but, nevertheless, the exception was made, and + is still continued in favor of the Boers, while the Bechuanas and Griquas, + our constant friends, are debarred from obtaining a single ounce for + either defense or trade; indeed, such was the state of ignorance as to the + relation of the border tribes with the English, even at Cape Town, that + the magistrates, though willing to aid my researches, were sorely afraid + to allow me to purchase more than ten pounds of gunpowder, lest the + Bechuanas should take it from me by force. As it turned out, I actually + left more than that quantity for upward of two years in an open box in my + wagon at Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + The lamented Sir George Cathcart, apparently unconscious of what he was + doing, entered into a treaty with the Transvaal Boers, in which articles + were introduced for the free passage of English traders to the north, and + for the entire prohibition of slavery in the free state. Then passed the + "gunpowder ordinance", by which the Bechuanas, whom alone the Boers dare + attempt to enslave, were rendered quite defenseless. The Boers never + attempt to fight with Caffres, nor to settle in Caffreland. We still + continue to observe the treaty. The Boers never did, and never intended to + abide by its provisions; for, immediately on the proclamation of their + independence, a slave-hunt was undertaken against the Bechuanas of Sechele + by four hundred Boers, under Mr. Peit Scholz, and the plan was adopted + which had been cherished in their hearts ever since the emancipation of + the Hottentots. Thus, from unfortunate ignorance of the country he had to + govern, an able and sagacious governor adopted a policy proper and wise + had it been in front of our enemies, but altogether inappropriate for our + friends against whom it has been applied. Such an error could not have + been committed by a man of local knowledge and experience, such as that + noble of colonial birth, Sir Andries Stockenstrom; and such instances of + confounding friend and foe, in the innocent belief of thereby promoting + colonial interests, will probably lead the Cape community, the chief part + of which by no means feels its interest to lie in the degradation of the + native tribes, to assert the right of choosing their own governors. This, + with colonial representation in the Imperial Parliament, in addition to + the local self-government already so liberally conceded, would undoubtedly + secure the perpetual union of the colony to the English crown. + </p> + <p> + Many hundreds of both Griquas and Bechuanas have become Christians and + partially civilized through the teaching of English missionaries. My first + impressions of the progress made were that the accounts of the effects of + the Gospel among them had been too highly colored. I expected a higher + degree of Christian simplicity and purity than exists either among them or + among ourselves. I was not anxious for a deeper insight in detecting shams + than others, but I expected character, such as we imagine the primitive + disciples had—and was disappointed.* When, however, I passed on to + the true heathen in the countries beyond the sphere of missionary + influence, and could compare the people there with the Christian natives, + I came to the conclusion that, if the question were examined in the most + rigidly severe or scientific way, the change effected by the missionary + movement would be considered unquestionably great. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The popular notion, however, of the primitive Church is + perhaps not very accurate. Those societies especially which + consisted of converted Gentiles—men who had been accustomed + to the vices and immoralities of heathenism—were certainly + any thing but pure. In spite of their conversion, some of + them carried the stains and vestiges of their former state + with them when they passed from the temple to the church. If + the instructed and civilized Greek did not all at once rise + out of his former self, and understand and realize the high + ideal of his new faith, we should be careful, in judging of + the work of missionaries among savage tribes, not to apply to + their converts tests and standards of too great severity. If + the scoffing Lucian's account of the impostor Peregrinus may + be believed, we find a church probably planted by the apostles + manifesting less intelligence even than modern missionary + churches. Peregrinus, a notoriously wicked man, was elected + to the chief place among them, while Romish priests, backed by + the power of France, could not find a place at all in the + mission churches of Tahiti and Madagascar. +</pre> + <p> + We can not fairly compare these poor people with ourselves, who have an + atmosphere of Christianity and enlightened public opinion, the growth of + centuries, around us, to influence our deportment; but let any one from + the natural and proper point of view behold the public morality of Griqua + Town, Kuruman, Likatlong, and other villages, and remember what even + London was a century ago, and he must confess that the Christian mode of + treating aborigines is incomparably the best. + </p> + <p> + The Griquas and Bechuanas were in former times clad much like the Caffres, + if such a word may be used where there is scarcely any clothing at all. A + bunch of leather strings about eighteen inches long hung from the lady's + waist in front, and a prepared skin of a sheep or antelope covered the + shoulders, leaving the breast and abdomen bare: the men wore a patch of + skin, about the size of the crown of one's hat, which barely served for + the purposes of decency, and a mantle exactly like that of the women. To + assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the influence of the sun + by day and of the cold by night, all smeared themselves with a mixture of + fat and ochre; the head was anointed with pounded blue mica schist mixed + with fat; and the fine particles of shining mica, falling on the body and + on strings of beads and brass rings, were considered as highly ornamental, + and fit for the most fastidious dandy. Now these same people come to + church in decent though poor clothing, and behave with a decorum certainly + superior to what seems to have been the case in the time of Mr. Samuel + Pepys in London. Sunday is well observed, and, even in localities where no + missionary lives, religious meetings are regularly held, and children and + adults taught to read by the more advanced of their own fellow-countrymen; + and no one is allowed to make a profession of faith by baptism unless he + knows how to read, and understands the nature of the Christian religion. + </p> + <p> + The Bechuana Mission has been so far successful that, when coming from the + interior, we always felt, on reaching Kuruman, that we had returned to + civilized life. But I would not give any one to understand by this that + they are model Christians—we can not claim to be model Christians + ourselves—or even in any degree superior to the members of our + country churches. They are more stingy and greedy than the poor at home; + but in many respects the two are exactly alike. On asking an intelligent + chief what he thought of them, he replied, "You white men have no idea of + how wicked we are; we know each other better than you; some feign belief + to ingratiate themselves with the missionaries; some profess Christianity + because they like the new system, which gives so much more importance to + the poor, and desire that the old system may pass away; and the rest—a + pretty large number—profess because they are really true believers." + This testimony may be considered as very nearly correct. + </p> + <p> + There is not much prospect of this country ever producing much of the + materials of commerce except wool. At present the chief articles of trade + are karosses or mantles—the skins of which they are composed come + from the Desert; next to them, ivory, the quantity of which can not now be + great, inasmuch as the means of shooting elephants is sedulously debarred + entrance into the country. A few skins and horns, and some cattle, make up + the remainder of the exports. English goods, sugar, tea, and coffee are + the articles received in exchange. All the natives of these parts soon + become remarkably fond of coffee. The acme of respectability among the + Bechuanas is the possession of cattle and a wagon. It is remarkable that, + though these latter require frequent repairs, none of the Bechuanas have + ever learned to mend them. Forges and tools have been at their service, + and teachers willing to aid them, but, beyond putting together a + camp-stool, no effort has ever been made to acquire a knowledge of the + trades. They observe most carefully a missionary at work until they + understand whether a tire is well welded or not, and then pronounce upon + its merits with great emphasis, but there their ambition rests satisfied. + It is the same peculiarity among ourselves which leads us in other + matters, such as book-making, to attain the excellence of fault-finding + without the wit to indite a page. It was in vain I tried to indoctrinate + the Bechuanas with the idea that criticism did not imply any superiority + over the workman, or even equality with him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 6. + </h2> + <p> + Kuruman—Its fine Fountain—Vegetation of the District—Remains + of ancient Forests—Vegetable Poison—The Bible translated by + Mr. Moffat—Capabilities of the Language—Christianity among the + Natives—The Missionaries should extend their Labors more beyond the + Cape Colony—Model Christians—Disgraceful Attack of the Boers + on the Bakwains—Letter from Sechele—Details of the Attack—Numbers + of School-children carried away into Slavery—Destruction of House + and Property at Kolobeng—The Boers vow Vengeance against me—Consequent + Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Journey—Start + in November, 1852—Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain + Redress from the Queen—He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape—Meet + Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami—The hot Wind of the Desert—Electric + State of the Atmosphere—Flock of Swifts—Reach Litubaruba—The + Cave Lepelole—Superstitions regarding it—Impoverished State of + the Bakwains—Retaliation on the Boers—Slavery—Attachment + of the Bechuanas to Children—Hydrophobia unknown—Diseases of + the Bakwains few in number—Yearly Epidemics—Hasty Burials—Ophthalmia—Native + Doctors—Knowledge of Surgery at a very low Ebb—Little + Attendance given to Women at their Confinements—The "Child Medicine"—Salubrity + of the Climate well adapted for Invalids suffering from pulmonary + Complaints. + </p> + <p> + The permanence of the station called Kuruman depends entirely on the fine + ever-flowing fountain of that name. It comes from beneath the trap-rock, + of which I shall have to speak when describing the geology of the entire + country; and as it usually issues at a temperature of 72 Deg. Fahr., it + probably comes from the old silurian schists, which formed the bottom of + the great primeval valley of the continent. I could not detect any + diminution in the flow of this gushing fountain during my residence in the + country; but when Mr. Moffat first attempted a settlement here, + thirty-five years ago, he made a dam six or seven miles below the present + one, and led out the stream for irrigation, where not a drop of the + fountain-water ever now flows. Other parts, fourteen miles below the + Kuruman gardens, are pointed out as having contained, within the memory of + people now living, hippopotami, and pools sufficient to drown both men and + cattle. This failure of water must be chiefly ascribed to the general + desiccation of the country, but partly also to the amount of irrigation + carried on along both banks of the stream at the mission station. This + latter circumstance would have more weight were it not coincident with the + failure of fountains over a wide extent of country. + </p> + <p> + Without at present entering minutely into this feature of the climate, it + may be remarked that the Kuruman district presents evidence of this dry + southern region having, at no very distant date, been as well watered as + the country north of Lake Ngami is now. Ancient river-beds and + water-courses abound, and the very eyes of fountains long since dried up + may be seen, in which the flow of centuries has worn these orifices from a + slit to an oval form, having on their sides the tufa so abundantly + deposited from these primitive waters; and just where the splashings, made + when the stream fell on the rock below, may be supposed to have reached + and evaporated, the same phenomenon appears. Many of these failing + fountains no longer flow, because the brink over which they ran is now too + high, or because the elevation of the western side of the country lifts + the land away from the water supply below; but let a cutting be made from + a lower level than the brink, and through it to a part below the surface + of the water, and water flows perennially. Several of these ancient + fountains have been resuscitated by the Bechuanas near Kuruman, who + occasionally show their feelings of self-esteem by laboring for months at + deep cuttings, which, having once begun, they feel bound in honor to + persevere in, though told by a missionary that they can never force water + to run up hill. + </p> + <p> + It is interesting to observe the industry of many Boers in this region in + making long and deep canals from lower levels up to spots destitute of the + slightest indication of water existing beneath except a few rushes and a + peculiar kind of coarse, reddish-colored grass growing in a hollow, which + anciently must have been the eye of a fountain, but is now filled up with + soft tufa. In other instances, the indication of water below consists of + the rushes growing on a long, sandy ridge a foot or two in height instead + of in a furrow. A deep transverse cutting made through the higher part of + this is rewarded by a stream of running water. The reason why the ground + covering this water is higher than the rest of the locality is that the + winds carry quantities of fine dust and sand about the country, and + hedges, bushes, and trees cause its deposit. The rushes in this case + perform the part of the hedges, and the moisture rising as dew by night + fixes the sand securely among the roots, and a height, instead of a + hollow, is the result. While on this subject it may be added that there is + no perennial fountain in this part of the country except those that come + from beneath the quartzose trap, which constitutes the "filling up" of the + ancient valley; and as the water supply seems to rest on the old silurian + schists which form its bottom, it is highly probable that Artesian wells + would in several places perform the part which these deep cuttings now do. + </p> + <p> + The aspect of this part of the country during most of the year is of a + light yellow color; for some months during the rainy season it is of a + pleasant green mixed with yellow. Ranges of hills appear in the west, but + east of them we find hundreds of miles of grass-covered plains. Large + patches of these flats are covered with white calcareous tufa resting on + perfectly horizontal strata of trap. There the vegetation consists of fine + grass growing in tufts among low bushes of the "wait-a-bit" thorn ('Acacia + detinens'), with its annoying fish-hook-like spines. Where these rocks do + not appear on the surface, the soil consists of yellow sand and tall, + coarse grasses, growing among berry-yielding bushes, named moretloa + ('Grewia flava') and mohatla ('Tarchonanthus'), which has enough of + aromatic resinous matter to burn brightly, though perfectly green. In more + sheltered spots we come on clumps of the white-thorned mimosa ('Acacia + horrida', also 'A. atomiphylla'), and great abundance of wild sage + ('Salvia Africana'), and various leguminosae, ixias, and large-flowering + bulbs: the 'Amaryllis toxicaria' and 'A. Brunsvigia multiflora' (the + former a poisonous bulb) yield in the decayed lamellae a soft, silky down, + a good material for stuffing mattresses. + </p> + <p> + In some few parts of the country the remains of ancient forests of wild + olive-trees ('Olea similis') and of the camel-thorn ('Acacia giraffe') are + still to be met with; but when these are leveled in the proximity of a + Bechuana village, no young trees spring up to take their places. This is + not because the wood has a growth so slow as not to be appreciable in its + increase during the short period that it can be observed by man, which + might be supposed from its being so excessively hard; for having measured + a young tree of this species growing in the corner of Mr. Moffat's garden + near the water, I found that it increased at the rate of a quarter of an + inch in diameter annually during a number of years. Moreover, the larger + specimens, which now find few or no successors, if they had more rain in + their youth, can not be above two or three hundred years old. + </p> + <p> + It is probable that this is the tree of which the Ark of the Covenant and + the Tabernacle were constructed, as it is reported to be found where the + Israelites were at the time these were made. It is an imperishable wood, + while that usually pointed out as the "shittim" (or 'Acacia nilotica') + soon decays and wants beauty. + </p> + <p> + In association with it we always observe a curious plant, named ngotuane, + which bears such a profusion of fine yellow strong-scented flowers as + quite to perfume the air. This plant forms a remarkable exception to the + general rule, that nearly all the plants in the dry parts of Africa are + scentless, or emit only a disagreeable odor. It, moreover, contains an + active poison; a French gentleman, having imbibed a mouthful or two of an + infusion of its flowers as tea, found himself rendered nearly powerless. + Vinegar has the peculiar property of rendering this poison perfectly + inert, whether in or out of the body. When mixed with vinegar, the poison + may be drunk with safety, while, if only tasted by itself, it causes a + burning sensation in the throat. This gentleman described the action of + the vinegar, when he was nearly deprived of power by the poison imbibed, + to have been as if electricity had run along his nerves as soon as he had + taken a single glassful. The cure was instantaneous and complete. I had + always to regret want of opportunity for investigating this remarkable and + yet controllable agent on the nervous system. Its usual proximity to + camel-thorn-trees may be accounted for by the PROBABILITY that the + giraffe, which feeds on this tree, MAY make use of the plant as a + medicine. + </p> + <p> + During the period of my visit at Kuruman, Mr. Moffat, who has been a + missionary in Africa during upward of forty years, and is well known by + his interesting work, "Scenes and Labors in South Africa", was busily + engaged in carrying through the press, with which his station is + furnished, the Bible in the language of the Bechuanas, which is called + Sichuana. This has been a work of immense labor; and as he was the first + to reduce their speech to a written form, and has had his attention + directed to the study for at least thirty years, he may be supposed to be + better adapted for the task than any man living. Some idea of the + copiousness of the language may be formed from the fact that even he never + spends a week at his work without discovering new words; the phenomenon, + therefore, of any man who, after a few months' or years' study of a native + tongue, cackles forth a torrent of vocables, may well be wondered at, if + it is meant to convey instruction. In my own case, though I have had as + much intercourse with the purest idiom as most Englishmen, and have + studied the language carefully, yet I can never utter an important + statement without doing so very slowly, and repeating it too, lest the + foreign accent, which is distinctly perceptible in all Europeans, should + render the sense unintelligible. In this I follow the example of the + Bechuana orators, who, on important matters, always speak slowly, + deliberately, and with reiteration. The capabilities of this language may + be inferred from the fact that the Pentateuch is fully expressed in Mr. + Moffat's translation in fewer words than in the Greek Septuagint, and in a + very considerably smaller number than in our own English version. The + language is, however, so simple in its construction, that its copiousness + by no means requires the explanation that the people have fallen from a + former state of civilization and culture. Language seems to be an + attribute of the human mind and thought; and the inflections, various as + they are in the most barbarous tongues, as that of the Bushmen, are + probably only proofs of the race being human, and endowed with the power + of thinking; the fuller development of language taking place as the + improvement of our other faculties goes on. It is fortunate that the + translation of the Bible has been effected before the language became + adulterated with half-uttered foreign words, and while those who have + heard the eloquence of the native assemblies are still living; for the + young, who are brought up in our schools, know less of the language than + the missionaries; and Europeans born in the country, while possessed of + the idiom perfectly, if not otherwise educated, can not be referred to for + explanation of any uncommon word. A person who acted as interpreter to Sir + George Cathcart actually told his excellency that the language of the + Basutos was not capable of expressing the substance of a chief's + diplomatic paper, while every one acquainted with Moshesh, the chief who + sent it, well knows that he could in his own tongue have expressed it + without study all over again in three or four different ways. The + interpreter could scarcely have done as much in English. + </p> + <p> + This language both rich and poor speak correctly; there is no vulgar + style; but children have a 'patois' of their own, using many words in + their play which men would scorn to repeat. The Bamapela have adopted a + click into their dialect, and a large infusion of the ringing "ny", which + seems to have been for the purpose of preventing others from understanding + them. + </p> + <p> + The fact of the complete translation of the Bible at a station seven + hundred miles inland from the Cape naturally suggests the question whether + it is likely to be permanently useful, and whether Christianity, as + planted by modern missions, is likely to retain its vitality without + constant supplies of foreign teaching? It would certainly be no cause for + congratulation if the Bechuana Bible seemed at all likely to meet the fate + of Elliot's Choctaw version, a specimen of which may be seen in the + library of one of the American colleges—as God's word in a language + which no living tongue can articulate, nor living mortal understand; but a + better destiny seems in store for this, for the Sichuana language has been + introduced into the new country beyond Lake Ngami. There it is the court + language, and will take a stranger any where through a district larger + than France. The Bechuanas, moreover, in all probability possess that + imperishability which forms so remarkable a feature in the entire African + race. + </p> + <p> + When converts are made from heathenism by modern missionaries, it becomes + an interesting question whether their faith possesses the elements of + permanence, or is only an exotic too tender for self-propagation when the + fostering care of the foreign cultivators is withdrawn. If neither habits + of self-reliance are cultivated, nor opportunities given for the exercise + of that virtue, the most promising converts are apt to become like spoiled + children. In Madagascar, a few Christians were left with nothing but the + Bible in their hands; and though exposed to persecution, and even death + itself, as the penalty of adherence to their profession, they increased + ten-fold in numbers, and are, if possible, more decided believers now than + they were when, by an edict of the queen of that island, the missionaries + ceased their teaching. + </p> + <p> + In South Africa such an experiment could not be made, for such a variety + of Christian sects have followed the footsteps of the London Missionary + Society's successful career, that converts of one denomination, if left to + their own resources, are eagerly adopted by another, and are thus more + likely to become spoiled than trained to the manly Christian virtues. + </p> + <p> + Another element of weakness in this part of the missionary field is the + fact of the missionary societies considering the Cape Colony itself as a + proper sphere for their peculiar operations. In addition to a + well-organized and efficient Dutch Reformed Established Church, and + schools for secular instruction, maintained by government, in every + village of any extent in the colony, we have a number of other sects, as + the Wesleyans, Episcopalians, Moravians, all piously laboring at the same + good work. Now it is deeply to be regretted that so much honest zeal + should be so lavishly expended in a district wherein there is so little + scope for success. When we hear an agent of one sect urging his friends at + home to aid him quickly to occupy some unimportant nook, because, if it is + not speedily laid hold of, he will "not have room for the sole of his + foot," one can not help longing that both he and his friends would direct + their noble aspirations to the millions of untaught heathen in the regions + beyond, and no longer continue to convert the extremity of the continent + into, as it were, a dam of benevolence. + </p> + <p> + I would earnestly recommend all young missionaries to go at once to the + real heathen, and never to be content with what has been made ready to + their hands by men of greater enterprise. The idea of making model + Christians of the young need not be entertained by any one who is secretly + convinced, as most men who know their own hearts are, that he is not a + model Christian himself. The Israelitish slaves brought out of Egypt by + Moses were not converted and elevated in one generation, though under the + direct teaching of God himself. Notwithstanding the numbers of miracles he + wrought, a generation had to be cut off because of unbelief. Our own + elevation, also, has been the work of centuries, and, remembering this, we + should not indulge in overwrought expectations as to the elevation which + those who have inherited the degradation of ages may attain in our day. + The principle might even be adopted by missionary societies, that one + ordinary missionary's lifetime of teaching should be considered an ample + supply of foreign teaching for any tribe in a thinly-peopled country, for + some never will receive the Gospel at all, while in other parts, when + Christianity is once planted, the work is sure to go on. A missionary is + soon known to be supported by his friends at home; and though the salary + is but a bare subsistence, to Africans it seems an enormous sum; and, + being unable to appreciate the motives by which he is actuated, they + consider themselves entitled to various services at his hands, and + defrauded if these are not duly rendered. This feeling is all the stronger + when a young man, instead of going boldly to the real heathen, settles + down in a comfortable house and garden prepared by those into whose labors + he has entered. A remedy for this evil might be found in appropriating the + houses and gardens raised by the missionaries' hands to their own + families. It is ridiculous to call such places as Kuruman, for instance, + "Missionary Society's property". This beautiful station was made what it + is, not by English money, but by the sweat and toil of fathers whose + children have, notwithstanding, no place on earth which they can call a + home. The Society's operations may be transferred to the north, and then + the strong-built mission premises become the home of a Boer, and the + stately stone church his cattle-pen. This place has been what the + monasteries of Europe are said to have been when pure. The monks did not + disdain to hold the plow. They introduced fruit-trees, flowers, and + vegetables, in addition to teaching and emancipating the serfs. Their + monasteries were mission stations, which resembled ours in being + dispensaries for the sick, almshouses for the poor, and nurseries of + learning. Can we learn nothing from them in their prosperity as the + schools of Europe, and see naught in their history but the pollution and + laziness of their decay? Can our wise men tell us why the former mission + stations (primitive monasteries) were self-supporting, rich, and + flourishing as pioneers of civilization and agriculture, from which we + even now reap benefits, and modern mission stations are mere pauper + establishments, without that permanence or ability to be self-supporting + which they possessed? + </p> + <p> + Protestant missionaries of every denomination in South Africa all agree in + one point, that no mere profession of Christianity is sufficient to + entitle the converts to the Christian name. They are all anxious to place + the Bible in the hands of the natives, and, with ability to read that, + there can be little doubt as to the future. We believe Christianity to be + divine, and equal to all it has to perform; then let the good seed be + widely sown, and, no matter to what sect the converts may belong, the + harvest will be glorious. Let nothing that I have said be interpreted as + indicative of feelings inimical to any body of Christians, for I never, as + a missionary, felt myself to be either Presbyterian, Episcopalian, or + Independent, or called upon in any way to love one denomination less than + another. My earnest desire is, that those who really have the best + interests of the heathen at heart should go to them; and assuredly, in + Africa at least, self-denying labors among real heathen will not fail to + be appreciated. Christians have never yet dealt fairly by the heathen and + been disappointed. + </p> + <p> + When Sechele understood that we could no longer remain with him at + Kolobeng, he sent his children to Mr. Moffat, at Kuruman, for instruction + in all the knowledge of the white men. Mr. Moffat very liberally received + at once an accession of five to his family, with their attendants. + </p> + <p> + Having been detained at Kuruman about a fortnight by the breaking of a + wagon-wheel, I was thus providentially prevented from being present at the + attack of the Boers on the Bakwains, news of which was brought, about the + end of that time, by Masebele, the wife of Sechele. She had herself been + hidden in a cleft of a rock, over which a number of Boers were firing. Her + infant began to cry, and, terrified lest this should attract the attention + of the men, the muzzles of whose guns appeared at every discharge over her + head, she took off her armlets as playthings to quiet the child. She + brought Mr. Moffat a letter, which tells its own tale. Nearly literally + translated it was as follows: + </p> + <p> + "Friend of my heart's love, and of all the confidence of my heart, I am + Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who attacked me, though I had no guilt + with them. They demanded that I should be in their kingdom, and I refused. + They demanded that I should prevent the English and Griquas from passing + (northward). I replied, These are my friends, and I can prevent no one (of + them). They came on Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on Sunday, + and they assented. They began on Monday morning at twilight, and fired + with all their might, and burned the town with fire, and scattered us. + They killed sixty of my people, and captured women, and children, and men. + And the mother of Baleriling (a former wife of Sechele) they also took + prisoner. They took all the cattle and all the goods of the Bakwains; and + the house of Livingstone they plundered, taking away all his goods. The + number of wagons they had was eighty-five, and a cannon; and after they + had stolen my own wagon and that of Macabe, then the number of their + wagons (counting the cannon as one) was eighty-eight. All the goods of the + hunters (certain English gentlemen hunting and exploring in the north) + were burned in the town; and of the Boers were killed twenty-eight. Yes, + my beloved friend, now my wife goes to see the children, and Kobus Hae + will convey her to you. I am, SECHELE, The Son of Mochoasele." + </p> + <p> + This statement is in exact accordance with the account given by the native + teacher Mebalwe, and also that sent by some of the Boers themselves to the + public colonial papers. The crime of cattle-stealing, of which we hear so + much near Caffreland, was never alleged against these people, and, if a + single case had occurred when I was in the country, I must have heard of + it, and would at once say so. But the only crime imputed in the papers was + that "Sechele was getting too saucy." The demand made for his subjection + and service in preventing the English traders passing to the north was + kept out of view. + </p> + <p> + Very soon after Pretorius had sent the marauding party against Kolobeng, + he was called away to the tribunal of infinite justice. His policy is + justified by the Boers generally from the instructions given to the Jewish + warriors in Deuteronomy 20:10-14. Hence, when he died, the obituary notice + ended with "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord." I wish he had not + "forbidden us to preach unto the Gentiles that they may be saved." + </p> + <p> + The report of this outrage on the Bakwains, coupled with denunciations + against myself for having, as it was alleged, taught them to kill Boers, + produced such a panic in the country, that I could not engage a single + servant to accompany me to the north. I have already alluded to their mode + of warfare, and in all previous Boerish forays the killing had all been on + one side; now, however, that a tribe where an Englishman had lived had + begun to shed THEIR blood as well, it was considered the strongest + presumptive evidence against me. Loud vows of vengeance were uttered + against my head, and threats of instant pursuit by a large party on + horseback, should I dare to go into or beyond their country; and as these + were coupled with the declaration that the English government had given + over the whole of the native tribes to their rule, and would assist in + their entire subjection by preventing fire-arms and ammunition from + entering the country, except for the use of the Boers, it was not to be + wondered at that I was detained for months at Kuruman from sheer inability + to get wagon-drivers. The English name, from being honored and respected + all over the country, had become somewhat more than suspected; and as the + policy of depriving those friendly tribes of the means of defense was + represented by the Boers as proof positive of the wish of the English that + they should be subjugated, the conduct of a government which these tribes + always thought the paragon of justice and friendship was rendered totally + incomprehensible to them; they could neither defend themselves against + their enemies, nor shoot the animals in the produce of which we wished + them to trade. + </p> + <p> + At last I found three servants willing to risk a journey to the north; and + a man of color named George Fleming, who had generously been assisted by + Mr. H. E. Rutherford, a mercantile gentleman of Cape Town, to endeavor to + establish a trade with the Makololo, had also managed to get a similar + number; we accordingly left Kuruman on the 20th of November, and proceeded + on our journey. Our servants were the worst possible specimens of those + who imbibe the vices without the virtues of Europeans, but we had no + choice, and were glad to get away on any terms. + </p> + <p> + When we reached Motito, forty miles off, we met Sechele on his way, as he + said, "to the Queen of England." Two of his own children, and their + mother, a former wife, were among the captives seized by the Boers; and + being strongly imbued with the then very prevalent notion of England's + justice and generosity, he thought that in consequence of the violated + treaty he had a fair case to lay before her majesty. He employed all his + eloquence and powers of persuasion to induce me to accompany him, but I + excused myself on the ground that my arrangements were already made for + exploring the north. On explaining the difficulties of the way, and + endeavoring to dissuade him from the attempt, on account of the knowledge + I possessed of the governor's policy, he put the pointed question, "Will + the queen not listen to me, supposing I should reach her?" I replied, "I + believe she would listen, but the difficulty is to get to her." "Well, I + shall reach her," expressed his final determination. Others explained the + difficulties more fully, but nothing could shake his resolution. When he + reached Bloemfontein he found the English army just returning from a + battle with the Basutos, in which both parties claimed the victory, and + both were glad that a second engagement was not tried. Our officers + invited Sechele to dine with them, heard his story, and collected a + handsome sum of money to enable him to pursue his journey to England. The + commander refrained from noticing him, as a single word in favor of the + restoration of the children of Sechele would have been a virtual + confession of the failure of his own policy at the very outset. Sechele + proceeded as far as the Cape; but his resources being there expended, he + was obliged to return to his own country, one thousand miles distant, + without accomplishing the object of his journey. + </p> + <p> + On his return he adopted a mode of punishment which he had seen in the + colony, namely, making criminals work on the public roads. And he has + since, I am informed, made himself the missionary to his own people. He is + tall, rather corpulent, and has more of the negro feature than common, but + has large eyes. He is very dark, and his people swear by "Black Sechele". + He has great intelligence, reads well, and is a fluent speaker. Great + numbers of the tribes formerly living under the Boers have taken refuge + under his sway, and he is now greater in power than he was before the + attack on Kolobeng. + </p> + <p> + Having parted with Sechele, we skirted along the Kalahari Desert, and + sometimes within its borders, giving the Boers a wide berth. A larger fall + of rain than usual had occurred in 1852, and that was the completion of a + cycle of eleven or twelve years, at which the same phenomenon is reported + to have happened on three occasions. An unusually large crop of melons had + appeared in consequence. We had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. J. Macabe + returning from Lake Ngami, which he had succeeded in reaching by going + right across the Desert from a point a little to the south of Kolobeng. + The accounts of the abundance of watermelons were amply confirmed by this + energetic traveler; for, having these in vast quantities, his cattle + subsisted on the fluid contained in them for a period of no less than + twenty-one days; and when at last they reached a supply of water, they did + not seem to care much about it. Coming to the lake from the southeast, he + crossed the Teoughe, and went round the northern part of it, and is the + only European traveler who had actually seen it all. His estimate of the + extent of the lake is higher than that given by Mr. Oswell and myself, or + from about ninety to one hundred miles in circumference. Before the lake + was discovered, Macabe wrote a letter in one of the Cape papers + recommending a certain route as likely to lead to it. The Transvaal Boers + fined him 500 dollars for writing about "ouze felt", OUR country, and + imprisoned him, too, till the fine was paid. I now learned from his own + lips that the public report of this is true. Mr. Macabe's companion, + Mahar, was mistaken by a tribe of Barolongs for a Boer, and shot as he + approached their village. When Macabe came up and explained that he was an + Englishman, they expressed the utmost regret, and helped to bury him. This + was the first case in recent times of an Englishman being slain by the + Bechuanas. We afterward heard that there had been some fighting between + these Barolongs and the Boers, and that there had been capturing of cattle + on both sides. If this was true, I can only say that it was the first time + that I ever heard of cattle being taken by Bechuanas. This was a Caffre + war in stage the second; the third stage in the development is when both + sides are equally well armed and afraid of each other; the fourth, when + the English take up a quarrel not their own, and the Boers slip out of the + fray. + </p> + <p> + Two other English gentlemen crossed and recrossed the Desert about the + same time, and nearly in the same direction. On returning, one of them, + Captain Shelley, while riding forward on horseback, lost himself, and was + obliged to find his way alone to Kuruman, some hundreds of miles distant. + Reaching that station shirtless, and as brown as a Griqua, he was taken + for one by Mrs. Moffat, and was received by her with a salutation in + Dutch, that being the language spoken by this people. His sufferings must + have been far more severe than any we endured. The result of the exertions + of both Shelley and Macabe is to prove that the general view of the Desert + always given by the natives has been substantially correct. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally, during the very dry seasons which succeed our winter and + precede our rains, a hot wind blows over the Desert from north to south. + It feels somewhat as if it came from an oven, and seldom blows longer at a + time than three days. It resembles in its effects the harmattan of the + north of Africa, and at the time the missionaries first settled in the + country, thirty-five years ago, it came loaded with fine reddish-colored + sand. Though no longer accompanied by sand, it is so devoid of moisture as + to cause the wood of the best seasoned English boxes and furniture to + shrink, so that every wooden article not made in the country is warped. + The verls of ramrods made in England are loosened, and on returning to + Europe fasten again. This wind is in such an electric state that a bunch + of ostrich feathers held a few seconds against it becomes as strongly + charged as if attached to a powerful electrical machine, and clasps the + advancing hand with a sharp crackling sound. + </p> + <p> + When this hot wind is blowing, and even at other times, the peculiarly + strong electrical state of the atmosphere causes the movement of a native + in his kaross to produce therein a stream of small sparks. The first time + I noticed this appearance was while a chief was traveling with me in my + wagon. Seeing part of the fur of his mantle, which was exposed to slight + friction by the movement of the wagon, assume quite a luminous appearance, + I rubbed it smartly with the hand, and found it readily gave out bright + sparks, accompanied with distinct cracks. "Don't you see this?" said I. + "The white men did not show us this," he replied; "we had it long before + white men came into the country, we and our forefathers of old." + Unfortunately, I never inquired the name which they gave to this + appearance, but I have no doubt there is one for it in the language. Otto + von Guerrike is said, by Baron Humboldt, to have been the first that ever + observed this effect in Europe, but the phenomenon had been familiar to + the Bechuanas for ages. Nothing came of that, however, for they viewed the + sight as if with the eyes of an ox. The human mind has remained here as + stagnant to the present day, in reference to the physical operations of + the universe, as it once did in England. No science has been developed, + and few questions are ever discussed except those which have an intimate + connection with the wants of the stomach. + </p> + <p> + Very large flocks of swifts ('Cypselus apus') were observed flying over + the plains north of Kuruman. I counted a stream of them, which, by the + time it took to pass toward the reeds of that valley, must have numbered + upward of four thousand. Only a few of these birds breed at any time in + this country. I have often observed them, and noticed that there was no + appearance of their having paired; there was no chasing of each other, nor + any playing together. There are several other birds which continue in + flocks, and move about like wandering gipsies, even during the breeding + season, which in this country happens in the intervals between the cold + and hot seasons, cold acting somewhat in the same way here as the genial + warmth of spring does in Europe. Are these the migratory birds of Europe, + which return there to breed and rear their young? + </p> + <p> + On the 31st of December, 1852, we reached the town of Sechele, called, + from the part of the range on which it is situated, Litubaruba. Near the + village there exists a cave named Lepelole; it is an interesting evidence + of the former existence of a gushing fountain. No one dared to enter the + Lohaheng, or cave, for it was the common belief that it was the habitation + of the Deity. As we never had a holiday from January to December, and our + Sundays were the periods of our greatest exertions in teaching, I + projected an excursion into the cave on a week-day to see the god of the + Bakwains. The old men said that every one who went in remained there + forever, adding, "If the teacher is so mad as to kill himself, let him do + so alone, we shall not be to blame." The declaration of Sechele, that he + would follow where I led, produced the greatest consternation. It is + curious that in all their pretended dreams or visions of their god he has + always a crooked leg, like the Egyptian Thau. Supposing that those who + were reported to have perished in this cave had fallen over some + precipice, we went well provided with lights, ladder, lines, &c.; but + it turned out to be only an open cave, with an entrance about ten feet + square, which contracts into two water-worn branches, ending in round + orifices through which the water once flowed. The only inhabitants it + seems ever to have had were baboons. I left at the end of the upper branch + one of Father Mathew's leaden teetotal tickets. + </p> + <p> + I never saw the Bakwains looking so haggard and lean as at this time. Most + of their cattle had been swept away by the Boers, together with about + eighty fine draught oxen; and much provision left with them by two + officers, Captains Codrington and Webb, to serve for their return journey + south, had been carried off also. On their return these officers found the + skeletons of the Bakwains where they expected to find their own goods. All + the corn, clothing, and furniture of the people, too, had been consumed in + the flames which the Boers had forced the subject tribes to apply to the + town during the fight, so that its inhabitants were now literally + starving. + </p> + <p> + Sechele had given orders to his people not to commit any act of revenge + pending his visit to the Queen of England; but some of the young men + ventured to go to meet a party of Boers returning from hunting, and, as + the Boers became terrified and ran off, they brought their wagons to + Litubaruba. This seems to have given the main body of Boers an idea that + the Bakwains meant to begin a guerrilla war upon them. This "Caffre war" + was, however, only in embryo, and not near that stage of development in + which the natives have found out that the hide-and-seek system is the most + successful. + </p> + <p> + The Boers, in alarm, sent four of their number to ask for peace! I, being + present, heard the condition: "Sechele's children must be restored to + him." I never saw men so completely and unconsciously in a trap as these + four Boers were. Strong parties of armed Bakwains occupied every pass in + the hills and gorges around; and had they not promised much more than they + intended, or did perform, that day would have been their last. The + commandant Scholz had appropriated the children of Sechele to be his own + domestic slaves. I was present when one little boy, Khari, son of Sechele, + was returned to his mother; the child had been allowed to roll into the + fire, and there were three large unbound open sores on different parts of + his body. His mother and the women received him with a flood of silent + tears. + </p> + <p> + Slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in some places. The Boers + assert that they are the best of masters, and that, if the English had + possessed the Hottentot slaves, they would have received much worse + treatment than they did: what that would have been it is difficult to + imagine. I took down the names of some scores of boys and girls, many of + whom I knew as our scholars; but I could not comfort the weeping mothers + by any hope of their ever returning from slavery. + </p> + <p> + The Bechuanas are universally much attached to children. A little child + toddling near a party of men while they are eating is sure to get a + handful of the food. This love of children may arise, in a great measure, + from the patriarchal system under which they dwell. Every little stranger + forms an increase of property to the whole community, and is duly reported + to the chief—boys being more welcome than girls. The parents take + the name of the child, and often address their children as Ma (mother), or + Ra (father). Our eldest boy being named Robert, Mrs. Livingstone was, + after his birth, always addressed as Ma-Robert, instead of Mary, her + Christian name. + </p> + <p> + I have examined several cases in which a grandmother has taken upon + herself to suckle a grandchild. Masina of Kuruman had no children after + the birth of her daughter Sina, and had no milk after Sina was weaned, an + event which usually is deferred till the child is two or three years old. + Sina married when she was seventeen or eighteen, and had twins; Masina, + after at least fifteen years' interval since she had suckled a child, took + possession of one of them, applied it to her breast, and milk flowed, so + that she was able to nurse the child entirely. Masina was at this time at + least forty years of age. I have witnessed several other cases analogous + to this. A grandmother of forty, or even less, for they become withered at + an early age, when left at home with a young child, applies it to her own + shriveled breast, and milk soon follows. In some cases, as that of + Ma-bogosing, the chief wife of Mahure, who was about thirty-five years of + age, the child was not entirely dependent on the grandmother's breast, as + the mother suckled it too. I had witnessed the production of milk so + frequently by the simple application of the lips of the child, that I was + not therefore surprised when told by the Portuguese in Eastern Africa of a + native doctor who, by applying a poultice of the pounded larvae of hornets + to the breast of a woman, aided by the attempts of the child, could bring + back the milk. Is it not possible that the story in the "Cloud of + Witnesses" of a man, during the time of persecution in Scotland, putting + his child to his own breast, and finding, to the astonishment of the whole + country, that milk followed the act, may have been literally true? It was + regarded and is quoted as a miracle; but the feelings of the father toward + the child of a murdered mother must have been as nearly as possible + analogous to the maternal feeling; and, as anatomists declare the + structure of both male and female breasts to be identical, there is + nothing physically impossible in the alleged result. The illustrious Baron + Humboldt quotes an instance of the male breast yielding milk; and, though + I am not conscious of being over-credulous, the strange instances I have + examined in the opposite sex make me believe that there is no error in + that philosopher's statement. + </p> + <p> + The Boers know from experience that adult captives may as well be left + alone, for escape is so easy in a wild country that no fugitive-slave-law + can come into operation; they therefore adopt the system of seizing only + the youngest children, in order that these may forget their parents and + remain in perpetual bondage. I have seen mere infants in their houses + repeatedly. This fact was formerly denied; and the only thing which was + wanting to make the previous denial of the practice of slavery and + slave-hunting by the Transvaal Boers no longer necessary was the + declaration of their independence. + </p> + <p> + In conversation with some of my friends here I learned that Maleke, a + chief of the Bakwains, who formerly lived on the hill Litubaruba, had been + killed by the bite of a mad dog. My curiosity was strongly excited by this + statement, as rabies is so rare in this country. I never heard of another + case, and could not satisfy myself that even this was real hydrophobia. + While I was at Mabotsa, some dogs became affected by a disease which led + them to run about in an incoherent state; but I doubt whether it was any + thing but an affection of the brain. No individual or animal got the + complaint by inoculation from the animals' teeth; and from all that I + could hear, the prevailing idea of hydrophobia not existing within the + tropics seems to be quite correct. + </p> + <p> + The diseases known among the Bakwains are remarkably few. There is no + consumption nor scrofula, and insanity and hydrocephalus are rare. Cancer + and cholera are quite unknown. Small-pox and measles passed through the + country about twenty years ago, and committed great ravages; but, though + the former has since broken out on the coast repeatedly, neither disease + has since traveled inland. For small-pox, the natives employed, in some + parts, inoculation in the forehead with some animal deposit; in other + parts, they employed the matter of the small-pox itself; and in one + village they seem to have selected a virulent case for the matter used in + the operation, for nearly all the village was swept off by the disease in + a malignant confluent form. Where the idea came from I can not conceive. + It was practiced by the Bakwains at a time when they had no intercourse, + direct or indirect, with the southern missionaries. They all adopt readily + the use of vaccine virus when it is brought within their reach. + </p> + <p> + A certain loathsome disease, which decimates the North American Indians, + and threatens extirpation to the South Sea Islanders, dies out in the + interior of Africa without the aid of medicine; and the Bangwaketse, who + brought it from the west coast, lost it when they came into their own land + southwest of Kolobeng. It seems incapable of permanence in any form in + persons of pure African blood any where in the centre of the country. In + persons of mixed blood it is otherwise; and the virulence of the secondary + symptoms seemed to be, in all the cases that came under my care, in exact + proportion to the greater or less amount of European blood in the patient. + Among the Corannas and Griquas of mixed breed it produces the same ravages + as in Europe; among half-blood Portuguese it is equally frightful in its + inroads on the system; but in the pure Negro of the central parts it is + quite incapable of permanence. Among the Barotse I found a disease called + manassah, which closely resembles that of the 'foeda mulier' of history. + </p> + <p> + Equally unknown is stone in the bladder and gravel. I never met with a + case, though the waters are often so strongly impregnated with sulphate of + lime that kettles quickly become incrusted internally with the salt; and + some of my patients, who were troubled with indigestion, believed that + their stomachs had got into the same condition. This freedom from calculi + would appear to be remarkable in the negro race, even in the United + States; for seldom indeed have the most famed lithotomists there ever + operated on a negro. + </p> + <p> + The diseases most prevalent are the following: pneumonia, produced by + sudden changes of temperature, and other inflammations, as of the bowels, + stomach, and pleura; rheumatism; disease of the heart—but these + become rare as the people adopt the European dress—various forms of + indigestion and ophthalmia; hooping-cough comes frequently; and every year + the period preceding the rains is marked by some sort of epidemic. + Sometimes it is general ophthalmia, resembling closely the Egyptian. In + another year it is a kind of diarrhoea, which nothing will cure until + there is a fall of rain, and any thing acts as a charm after that. One + year the epidemic period was marked by a disease which looked like + pneumonia, but had the peculiar symptom strongly developed of great pain + in the seventh cervical process. Many persons died of it, after being in a + comatose state for many hours or days before their decease. No inspection + of the body being ever allowed by these people, and the place of sepulture + being carefully concealed, I had to rest satisfied with conjecture. + Frequently the Bakwains buried their dead in the huts where they died, for + fear lest the witches (Baloi) should disinter their friends, and use some + part of the body in their fiendish arts. Scarcely is the breath out of the + body when the unfortunate patient is hurried away to be buried. An + ant-eater's hole is often selected, in order to save the trouble of + digging a grave. On two occasions while I was there this hasty burial was + followed by the return home of the men, who had been buried alive, to + their affrighted relatives. They had recovered, while in their graves, + from prolonged swoons. + </p> + <p> + In ophthalmia the doctors cup on the temples, and apply to the eyes the + pungent smoke of certain roots, the patient, at the same time, taking + strong draughts of it up his nostrils. We found the solution of nitrate of + silver, two or three grains to the ounce of rain-water, answer the same + end so much more effectually, that every morning numbers of patients + crowded round our house for the collyrium. It is a good preventive of an + acute attack when poured into the eyes as soon as the pain begins, and + might prove valuable for travelers. Cupping is performed with the horn of + a goat or antelope, having a little hole pierced in the small end. In some + cases a small piece of wax is attached, and a temporary hole made through + it to the horn. When the air is well withdrawn, and kept out by touching + the orifice, at every inspiration, with the point of the tongue, the wax + is at last pressed together with the teeth, and the little hole in it + closed up, leaving a vacuum within the horn for the blood to flow from the + already scarified parts. The edges of the horn applied to the surface are + wetted, and cupping is well performed, though the doctor occasionally, by + separating the fibrine from the blood in a basin of water by his side, and + exhibiting it, pretends that he has extracted something more than blood. + He can thus explain the rationale of the cure by his own art, and the + ocular demonstration given is well appreciated. + </p> + <p> + Those doctors who have inherited their profession as an heirloom from + their fathers and grandfathers generally possess some valuable knowledge, + the result of long and close observation; but if a man can not say that + the medical art is in his family, he may be considered a quack. With the + regular practitioners I always remained on the best terms, by refraining + from appearing to doubt their skill in the presence of their patients. Any + explanation in private was thankfully received by them, and wrong + treatment changed into something more reasonable with cordial good-will, + if no one but the doctor and myself were present at the conversation. + English medicines were eagerly asked for and accepted by all; and we + always found medical knowledge an important aid in convincing the people + that we were really anxious for their welfare. We can not accuse them of + ingratitude; in fact, we shall remember the kindness of the Bakwains to us + as long as we live. + </p> + <p> + The surgical knowledge of the native doctors is rather at a low ebb. No + one ever attempted to remove a tumor except by external applications. + Those with which the natives are chiefly troubled are fatty and fibrous + tumors; and as they all have the 'vis medicatrix naturae' in remarkable + activity, I safely removed an immense number. In illustration of their + want of surgical knowledge may be mentioned the case of a man who had a + tumor as large as a child's head. This was situated on the nape of his + neck, and prevented his walking straight. He applied to his chief, and he + got some famous strange doctor from the East Coast to cure him. He and his + assistants attempted to dissolve it by kindling on it a little fire made + of a few small pieces of medicinal roots. I removed it for him, and he + always walked with his head much more erect than he needed to do ever + afterward. Both men and women submit to an operation without wincing, or + any of that shouting which caused young students to faint in the operating + theatre before the introduction of chloroform. The women pride themselves + on their ability to bear pain. A mother will address her little girl, from + whose foot a thorn is to be extracted, with, "Now, ma, you are a woman; a + woman does not cry." A man scorns to shed tears. When we were passing one + of the deep wells in the Kalahari, a boy, the son of an aged father, had + been drowned in it while playing on its brink. When all hope was gone, the + father uttered an exceedingly great and bitter cry. It was sorrow without + hope. This was the only instance I ever met with of a man weeping in this + country. + </p> + <p> + Their ideas on obstetrics are equally unscientific, and a medical man + going near a woman at her confinement appeared to them more out of place + than a female medical student appears to us in a dissecting-room. A case + of twins, however, happening, and the ointment of all the doctors of the + town proving utterly insufficient to effect the relief which a few seconds + of English art afforded, the prejudice vanished at once. As it would have + been out of the question for me to have entered upon this branch of the + profession—as indeed it would be inexpedient for any medical man to + devote himself exclusively, in a thinly-peopled country, to the practice + of medicine—I thereafter reserved myself for the difficult cases + only, and had the satisfaction of often conferring great benefits on poor + women in their hour of sorrow. The poor creatures are often placed in a + little hut built for the purpose, and are left without any assistance + whatever, and the numbers of umbilical herniae which are met with in + consequence is very great. The women suffer less at their confinement than + is the case in civilized countries; perhaps from their treating it, not as + a disease, but as an operation of nature, requiring no change of diet + except a feast of meat and abundance of fresh air. The husband on these + occasions is bound to slaughter for his lady an ox, or goat, or sheep, + according to his means. + </p> + <p> + My knowledge in the above line procured for me great fame in a department + in which I could lay no claim to merit. A woman came a distance of one + hundred miles for relief in a complaint which seemed to have baffled the + native doctors; a complete cure was the result. Some twelve months after + she returned to her husband, she bore a son. Her husband having previously + reproached her for being barren, she sent me a handsome present, and + proclaimed all over the country that I possessed a medicine for the cure + of sterility. The consequence was, that I was teased with applications + from husbands and wives from all parts of the country. Some came upward of + two hundred miles to purchase the great boon, and it was in vain for me to + explain that I had only cured the disease of the other case. The more I + denied, the higher their offers rose; they would give any money for the + "child medicine"; and it was really heart-rending to hear the earnest + entreaty, and see the tearful eye, which spoke the intense desire for + offspring: "I am getting old; you see gray hairs here and there on my + head, and I have no child; you know how Bechuana husbands cast their old + wives away; what can I do? I have no child to bring water to me when I am + sick," etc. + </p> + <p> + The whole of the country adjacent to the Desert, from Kuruman to Kolobeng, + or Litubaruba, and beyond up to the latitude of Lake Ngami, is remarkable + for its great salubrity of climate. Not only the natives, but Europeans + whose constitutions have been impaired by an Indian climate, find the + tract of country indicated both healthy and restorative. The health and + longevity of the missionaries have always been fair, though mission-work + is not very conducive to either elsewhere. Cases have been known in which + patients have come from the coast with complaints closely resembling, if + they were not actually, those of consumption; and they have recovered by + the influence of the climate alone. It must always be borne in mind that + the climate near the coast, from which we received such very favorable + reports of the health of the British troops, is actually inferior for + persons suffering from pulmonary complaints to that of any part not + subjected to the influence of sea-air. I have never seen the beneficial + effects of the inland climate on persons of shattered constitutions, nor + heard their high praises of the benefit they have derived from traveling, + without wishing that its bracing effects should become more extensively + known in England. No one who has visited the region I have above mentioned + fails to remember with pleasure the wild, healthful gipsy life of + wagon-traveling. + </p> + <p> + A considerable proportion of animal diet seems requisite here. Independent + of the want of salt, we required meat in as large quantity daily as we do + in England, and no bad effects, in the way of biliousness, followed the + free use of flesh, as in other hot climates. A vegetable diet causes + acidity and heartburn. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Oswell thought this climate much superior to that of Peru, as far as + pleasure is concerned; the want of instruments unfortunately prevented my + obtaining accurate scientific data for the medical world on this subject; + and were it not for the great expense of such a trip, I should have no + hesitation in recommending the borders of the Kalahari Desert as admirably + suited for all patients having pulmonary complaints. It is the complete + antipodes to our cold, damp, English climate. The winter is perfectly dry; + and as not a drop of rain falls during that period, namely, from the + beginning of May to the end of August, damp and cold are never combined. + However hot the day may have been at Kolobeng—and the thermometer + sometimes rose, previous to a fall of rain, up to 96 Deg. in the coolest + part of our house—yet the atmosphere never has that steamy feeling + nor those debilitating effects so well known in India and on the coast of + Africa itself. In the evenings the air becomes deliciously cool, and a + pleasant refreshing night follows the hottest day. The greatest heat ever + felt is not so oppressive as it is when there is much humidity in the air; + and the great evaporation consequent on a fall of rain makes the rainy + season the most agreeable for traveling. Nothing can exceed the balmy + feeling of the evenings and mornings during the whole year. You wish for + an increase neither of cold nor heat; and you can sit out of doors till + midnight without ever thinking of colds or rheumatism; or you may sleep + out at night, looking up to the moon till you fall asleep, without a + thought or sign of moon-blindness. Indeed, during many months there is + scarcely any dew. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 7. + </h2> + <p> + Departure from the Country of the Bakwains—Large black Ant—Land + Tortoises—Diseases of wild Animals—Habits of old Lions—Cowardice + of the Lion—Its Dread of a Snare—Major Vardon's Note—The + Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich—Seldom attacks + full-grown Animals—Buffaloes and Lions—Mice—Serpents—Treading + on one—Venomous and harmless Varieties—Fascination—Sekomi's + Ideas of Honesty—Ceremony of the Sechu for Boys—The Boyale for + young Women—Bamangwato Hills—The Unicorn's Pass—The + Country beyond—Grain—Scarcity of Water—Honorable Conduct + of English Gentlemen—Gordon Cumming's hunting Adventures—A + Word of Advice for young Sportsmen—Bushwomen drawing Water—Ostrich—Silly + Habit—Paces—Eggs—Food. + </p> + <p> + Having remained five days with the wretched Bakwains, seeing the effects + of war, of which only a very inadequate idea can ever be formed by those + who have not been eye-witnesses of its miseries, we prepared to depart on + the 15th of January, 1853. Several dogs, in better condition by far than + any of the people, had taken up their residence at the water. No one would + own them; there they had remained, and, coming on the trail of the people, + long after their departure from the scene of conflict, it was plain they + had + </p> + <p> + "Held o'er the dead their carnival." + </p> + <p> + Hence the disgust with which they were viewed. + </p> + <p> + On our way from Khopong, along the ancient river-bed which forms the + pathway to Boatlanama, I found a species of cactus, being the third I have + seen in the country, namely, one in the colony with a bright red flower, + one at Lake Ngami, the flower of which was liver-colored, and the present + one, flower unknown. That the plant is uncommon may be inferred from the + fact that the Bakwains find so much difficulty in recognizing the plant + again after having once seen it, that they believe it has the power of + changing its locality. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of January we reached the wells of Boatlanama, and found them + for the first time empty. Lopepe, which I had formerly seen a stream + running from a large reedy pool, was also dry. The hot salt spring of + Serinane, east of Lopepe, being undrinkable, we pushed on to Mashue for + its delicious waters. In traveling through this country, the olfactory + nerves are frequently excited by a strong disagreeable odor. This is + caused by a large jet-black ant named "Leshonya". It is nearly an inch in + length, and emits a pungent smell when alarmed, in the same manner as the + skunk. The scent must be as volatile as ether, for, on irritating the + insect with a stick six feet long, the odor is instantly perceptible. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally we lighted upon land tortoises, which, with their unlaid + eggs, make a very agreeable dish. We saw many of their trails leading to + the salt fountain; they must have come great distances for this + health-giving article. In lieu thereof they often devour wood-ashes. It is + wonderful how this reptile holds its place in the country. When seen, it + never escapes. The young are taken for the sake of their shells; these are + made into boxes, which, filled with sweet-smelling roots, the women hang + around their persons. When older it is used as food, and the shell + converted into a rude basin to hold food or water. It owes its continuance + neither to speed nor cunning. Its color, yellow and dark brown, is well + adapted, by its similarity to the surrounding grass and brushwood, to + render it indistinguishable; and, though it makes an awkward attempt to + run on the approach of man, its trust is in its bony covering, from which + even the teeth of a hyaena glance off foiled. When this long-lived + creature is about to deposit her eggs, she lets herself into the ground by + throwing the earth up round her shell, until only the top is visible; then + covering up the eggs, she leaves them until the rains begin to fall and + the fresh herbage appears; the young ones then come out, their shells + still quite soft, and, unattended by their dam, begin the world for + themselves. Their food is tender grass and a plant named thotona, and they + frequently resort to heaps of ashes and places containing efflorescence of + the nitrates for the salts these contain. + </p> + <p> + Inquiries among the Bushmen and Bakalahari, who are intimately acquainted + with the habits of the game, lead to the belief that many diseases prevail + among wild animals. I have seen the kokong or gnu, kama or hartebeest, the + tsessebe, kukama, and the giraffe, so mangy as to be uneatable even by the + natives. Reference has already been made to the peripneumonia which cuts + off horses, tolos or koodoos. Great numbers also of zebras are found dead + with masses of foam at the nostrils, exactly as occurs in the common + "horse-sickness". The production of the malignant carbuncle called kuatsi, + or selonda, by the flesh when eaten, is another proof of the disease of + the tame and wild being identical. I once found a buffalo blind from + ophthalmia standing by the fountain Otse; when he attempted to run he + lifted up his feet in the manner peculiar to blind animals. The rhinoceros + has often worms on the conjunction of his eyes; but these are not the + cause of the dimness of vision which will make him charge past a man who + has wounded him, if he stands perfectly still, in the belief that his + enemy is a tree. It probably arises from the horn being in the line of + vision, for the variety named kuabaoba, which has a straight horn directed + downward away from that line, possesses acute eyesight, and is much more + wary. + </p> + <p> + All the wild animals are subject to intestinal worms besides. I have + observed bunches of a tape-like thread and short worms of enlarged sizes + in the rhinoceros. The zebra and elephants are seldom without them, and a + thread-worm may often be seen under the peritoneum of these animals. Short + red larvae, which convey a stinging sensation to the hand, are seen + clustering round the orifice of the windpipe (trachea) of this animal at + the back of the throat; others are seen in the frontal sinus of antelopes; + and curious flat, leech-like worms, with black eyes, are found in the + stomachs of leches. The zebra, giraffe, eland, and kukama have been seen + mere skeletons from decay of their teeth as well as from disease. + </p> + <p> + The carnivora, too, become diseased and mangy; lions become lean and + perish miserably by reason of the decay of the teeth. When a lion becomes + too old to catch game, he frequently takes to killing goats in the + villages; a woman or child happening to go out at night falls a prey too; + and as this is his only source of subsistence now, he continues it. From + this circumstance has arisen the idea that the lion, when he has once + tasted human flesh, loves it better than any other. A man-eater is + invariably an old lion; and when he overcomes his fear of man so far as to + come to villages for goats, the people remark, "His teeth are worn, he + will soon kill men." They at once acknowledge the necessity of instant + action, and turn out to kill him. When living far away from population, or + when, as is the case in some parts, he entertains a wholesome dread of the + Bushmen and Bakalahari, as soon as either disease or old age overtakes + him, he begins to catch mice and other small rodents, and even to eat + grass; the natives, observing undigested vegetable matter in his + droppings, follow up his trail in the certainty of finding him scarcely + able to move under some tree, and dispatch him without difficulty. The + grass may have been eaten as medicine, as is observed in dogs. + </p> + <p> + That the fear of man often remains excessively strong in the carnivora is + proved from well-authenticated cases in which the lioness, in the vicinity + of towns where the large game had been unexpectedly driven away by + fire-arms, has been known to assuage the paroxysms of hunger by devouring + her own young. It must be added, that, though the effluvium which is left + by the footsteps of man is in general sufficient to induce lions to avoid + a village, there are exceptions; so many came about our half-deserted + houses at Chonuane while we were in the act of removing to Kolobeng, that + the natives who remained with Mrs. Livingstone were terrified to stir out + of doors in the evenings. Bitches, also, have been known to be guilty of + the horridly unnatural act of eating their own young, probably from the + great desire for animal food, which is experienced by the inhabitants as + well. + </p> + <p> + When a lion is met in the daytime, a circumstance by no means unfrequent + to travelers in these parts, if preconceived notions do not lead them to + expect something very "noble" or "majestic", they will see merely an + animal somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw, and partaking + very strongly of the canine features; the face is not much like the usual + drawings of a lion, the nose being prolonged like a dog's; not exactly + such as our painters make it—though they might learn better at the + Zoological Gardens—their ideas of majesty being usually shown by + making their lions' faces like old women in nightcaps. When encountered in + the daytime, the lion stands a second or two, gazing, then turns slowly + round, and walks as slowly away for a dozen paces, looking over his + shoulder; then begins to trot, and, when he thinks himself out of sight, + bounds off like a greyhound. By day there is not, as a rule, the smallest + danger of lions which are not molested attacking man, nor even on a clear + moonlight night, except when they possess the breeding storgh* (natural + affection); this makes them brave almost any danger; and if a man happens + to cross to the windward of them, both lion and lioness will rush at him, + in the manner of a bitch with whelps. This does not often happen, as I + only became aware of two or three instances of it. In one case a man, + passing where the wind blew from him to the animals, was bitten before he + could climb a tree; and occasionally a man on horseback has been caught by + the leg under the same circumstances. So general, however, is the sense of + security on moonlight nights, that we seldom tied up our oxen, but let + them lie loose by the wagons; while on a dark, rainy night, if a lion is + in the neighborhood, he is almost sure to venture to kill an ox. His + approach is always stealthy, except when wounded; and any appearance of a + trap is enough to cause him to refrain from making the last spring. This + seems characteristic of the feline species; when a goat is picketed in + India for the purpose of enabling the huntsmen to shoot a tiger by night, + if on a plain, he would whip off the animal so quickly by a stroke of the + paw that no one could take aim; to obviate this, a small pit is dug, and + the goat is picketed to a stake in the bottom; a small stone is tied in + the ear of the goat, which makes him cry the whole night. When the tiger + sees the appearance of a trap, he walks round and round the pit, and + allows the hunter, who is lying in wait, to have a fair shot. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * (Greek) sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta. +</pre> + <p> + When a lion is very hungry, and lying in wait, the sight of an animal may + make him commence stalking it. In one case a man, while stealthily + crawling towards a rhinoceros, happened to glance behind him, and found to + his horror a lion STALKING HIM; he only escaped by springing up a tree + like a cat. At Lopepe a lioness sprang on the after quarter of Mr. + Oswell's horse, and when we came up to him we found the marks of the claws + on the horse, and a scratch on Mr. O.'s hand. The horse, on feeling the + lion on him, sprang away, and the rider, caught by a wait-a-bit thorn, was + brought to the ground and rendered insensible. His dogs saved him. Another + English gentleman (Captain Codrington) was surprised in the same way, + though not hunting the lion at the time, but turning round he shot him + dead in the neck. By accident a horse belonging to Codrington ran away, + but was stopped by the bridle catching a stump; there he remained a + prisoner two days, and when found the whole space around was marked by the + footprints of lions. They had evidently been afraid to attack the haltered + horse from fear that it was a trap. Two lions came up by night to within + three yards of oxen tied to a wagon, and a sheep tied to a tree, and stood + roaring, but afraid to make a spring. On another occasion one of our party + was lying sound asleep and unconscious of danger between two natives + behind a bush at Mashue; the fire was nearly out at their feet in + consequence of all being completely tired out by the fatigues of the + previous day; a lion came up to within three yards of the fire, and there + commenced roaring instead of making a spring: the fact of their riding-ox + being tied to the bush was the only reason the lion had for not following + his instinct, and making a meal of flesh. He then stood on a knoll three + hundred yards distant, and roared all night, and continued his growling as + the party moved off by daylight next morning. + </p> + <p> + Nothing that I ever learned of the lion would lead me to attribute to it + either the ferocious or noble character ascribed to it elsewhere. It + possesses none of the nobility of the Newfoundland or St. Bernard dogs. + With respect to its great strength there can be no doubt. The immense + masses of muscle around its jaws, shoulders, and forearms proclaim + tremendous force. They would seem, however, to be inferior in power to + those of the Indian tiger. Most of those feats of strength that I have + seen performed by lions, such as the taking away of an ox, were not + carrying, but dragging or trailing the carcass along the ground: they have + sprung on some occasions on to the hind-quarters of a horse, but no one + has ever seen them on the withers of a giraffe. They do not mount on the + hind-quarters of an eland even, but try to tear him down with their claws. + Messrs. Oswell and Vardon once saw three lions endeavoring to drag down a + buffalo, and they were unable to do so for a time, though he was then + mortally wounded by a two-ounce ball.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This singular encounter, in the words of an eye-witness, + happened as follows: + + "My South African Journal is now before me, and I have got + hold of the account of the lion and buffalo affair; here it + is: '15th September, 1846. Oswell and I were riding this + afternoon along the banks of the Limpopo, when a waterbuck + started in front of us. I dismounted, and was following it + through the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, and, after + going a little distance, stood still, and the nearest bull + turned round and looked at me. A ball from the two-ouncer + crashed into his shoulder, and they all three made off. + Oswell and I followed as soon as I had reloaded, and when we + were in sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him at every + stride, three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute; he + bellowed most lustily as he kept up a kind of running fight, + but he was, of course, soon overpowered and pulled down. We + had a fine view of the struggle, and saw the lions on their + hind legs tearing away with teeth and claws in most ferocious + style. We crept up within thirty yards, and, kneeling down, + blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single barrel, and I + had no spare gun. One lion fell dead almost ON the buffalo; he + had merely time to turn toward us, seize a bush with his + teeth, and drop dead with the stick in his jaws. The second + made off immediately; and the third raised his head, coolly + looked round for a moment, then went on tearing and biting at + the carcass as hard as ever. We retired a short distance to + load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but a + ball that he received OUGHT to have stopped him, as it went + clean through his shoulder-blade. He was followed up and + killed, after having charged several times. Both lions were + males. It is not often that one BAGS a brace of lions and a + bull buffalo in about ten minutes. It was an exciting + adventure, and I shall never forget it.' + + "Such, my dear Livingstone, is the plain unvarnished account. + The buffalo had, of course, gone close to where the lions were + lying down for the day; and they, seeing him lame and + bleeding, thought the opportunity too good a one to be lost. + + "Ever yours, Frank Vardon." +</pre> + <p> + In general the lion seizes the animal he is attacking by the flank near + the hind leg, or by the throat below the jaw. It is questionable whether + he ever attempts to seize an animal by the withers. The flank is the most + common point of attack, and that is the part he begins to feast on first. + The natives and lions are very similar in their tastes in the selection of + tit-bits: an eland may be seen disemboweled by a lion so completely that + he scarcely seems cut up at all. The bowels and fatty parts form a full + meal for even the largest lion. The jackal comes sniffing about, and + sometimes suffers for his temerity by a stroke from the lion's paw laying + him dead. When gorged, the lion falls fast asleep, and is then easily + dispatched. Hunting a lion with dogs involves very little danger as + compared with hunting the Indian tiger, because the dogs bring him out of + cover and make him stand at bay, giving the hunter plenty of time for a + good deliberate shot. + </p> + <p> + Where game is abundant, there you may expect lions in proportionately + large numbers. They are never seen in herds, but six or eight, probably + one family, occasionally hunt together. One is in much more danger of + being run over when walking in the streets of London, than he is of being + devoured by lions in Africa, unless engaged in hunting the animal. Indeed, + nothing that I have seen or heard about lions would constitute a barrier + in the way of men of ordinary courage and enterprise. + </p> + <p> + The same feeling which has induced the modern painter to caricature the + lion, has led the sentimentalist to consider the lion's roar the most + terrific of all earthly sounds. We hear of the "majestic roar of the king + of beasts." It is, indeed, well calculated to inspire fear if you hear it + in combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that country, on a + night so pitchy dark that every flash of the intensely vivid lightning + leaves you with the impression of stone-blindness, while the rain pours + down so fast that your fire goes out, leaving you without the protection + of even a tree, or the chance of your gun going off. But when you are in a + comfortable house or wagon, the case is very different, and you hear the + roar of the lion without any awe or alarm. The silly ostrich makes a noise + as loud, yet he never was feared by man. To talk of the majestic roar of + the lion is mere majestic twaddle. On my mentioning this fact some years + ago, the assertion was doubted, so I have been careful ever since to + inquire the opinions of Europeans, who have heard both, if they could + detect any difference between the roar of a lion and that of an ostrich; + the invariable answer was, that they could not when the animal was at any + distance. The natives assert that they can detect a variation between the + commencement of the noise of each. There is, it must be admitted, + considerable difference between the singing noise of a lion when full, and + his deep, gruff growl when hungry. In general the lion's voice seems to + come deeper from the chest than that of the ostrich, but to this day I can + distinguish between them with certainty only by knowing that the ostrich + roars by day and the lion by night. + </p> + <p> + The African lion is of a tawny color, like that of some mastiffs. The mane + in the male is large, and gives the idea of great power. In some lions the + ends of the hair of the mane are black; these go by the name of + black-maned lions, though as a whole all look of the yellow tawny color. + At the time of the discovery of the lake, Messrs. Oswell and Wilson shot + two specimens of another variety. One was an old lion, whose teeth were + mere stumps, and his claws worn quite blunt; the other was full grown, in + the prime of life, with white, perfect teeth; both were entirely destitute + of mane. The lions in the country near the lake give tongue less than + those further south. We scarcely ever heard them roar at all. + </p> + <p> + The lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides man. He seldom + attacks full-grown animals; but frequently, when a buffalo calf is caught + by him, the cow rushes to the rescue, and a toss from her often kills him. + One we found was killed thus; and on the Leeambye another, which died near + Sesheke, had all the appearance of having received his death-blow from a + buffalo. It is questionable if a single lion ever attacks a full-grown + buffalo. The amount of roaring heard at night, on occasions when a buffalo + is killed, seems to indicate there are always more than one lion engaged + in the onslaught. + </p> + <p> + On the plain, south of Sebituane's ford, a herd of buffaloes kept a number + of lions from their young by the males turning their heads to the enemy. + The young and the cows were in the rear. One toss from a bull would kill + the strongest lion that ever breathed. I have been informed that in one + part of India even the tame buffaloes feel their superiority to some wild + animals, for they have been seen to chase a tiger up the hills, bellowing + as if they enjoyed the sport. Lions never go near any elephants except the + calves, which, when young, are sometimes torn by them; every living thing + retires before the lordly elephant, yet a full-grown one would be an + easier prey than the rhinoceros; the lion rushes off at the mere sight of + this latter beast. + </p> + <p> + In the country adjacent to Mashue great numbers of different kinds of mice + exist. The ground is often so undermined with their burrows that the foot + sinks in at every step. Little haycocks, about two feet high, and rather + more than that in breadth, are made by one variety of these little + creatures. The same thing is done in regions annually covered with snow + for obvious purposes, but it is difficult here to divine the reason of the + haymaking in the climate of Africa.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * 'Euryotis unisulcatus' (F. Cuvier), 'Mus pumelio' (Spar.), + and 'Mus lehocla' (Smith), all possess this habit in a greater + or less degree. The first-named may be seen escaping danger + with its young hanging to the after-part of its body. +</pre> + <p> + Wherever mice abound, serpents may be expected, for the one preys on the + other. A cat in a house is therefore a good preventive against the + entrance of these noxious reptiles. Occasionally, however, notwithstanding + every precaution, they do find their way in, but even the most venomous + sorts bite only when put in bodily fear themselves, or when trodden upon, + or when the sexes come together. I once found a coil of serpents' skins, + made by a number of them twisting together in the manner described by the + Druids of old. When in the country, one feels nothing of that alarm and + loathing which we may experience when sitting in a comfortable English + room reading about them; yet they are nasty things, and we seem to have an + instinctive feeling against them. In making the door for our Mabotsa + house, I happened to leave a small hole at the corner below. Early one + morning a man came to call for some article I had promised. I at once went + to the door, and, it being dark, trod on a serpent. The moment I felt the + cold scaly skin twine round a part of my leg, my latent instinct was + roused, and I jumped up higher than I ever did before or hope to do again, + shaking the reptile off in the leap. I probably trod on it near the head, + and so prevented it biting me, but did not stop to examine. + </p> + <p> + Some of the serpents are particularly venomous. One was killed at Kolobeng + of a dark brown, nearly black color, 8 feet 3 inches long. This species + (picakholu) is so copiously supplied with poison that, when a number of + dogs attack it, the first bitten dies almost instantaneously, the second + in about five minutes, the third in an hour or so, while the fourth may + live several hours. In a cattle-pen it produces great mischief in the same + way. The one we killed at Kolobeng continued to distill clear poison from + the fangs for hours after its head was cut off. This was probably that + which passes by the name of the "spitting serpent", which is believed to + be able to eject its poison into the eyes when the wind favors its + forcible expiration. They all require water, and come long distances to + the Zouga, and other rivers and pools, in search of it. We have another + dangerous serpent, the puff adder, and several vipers. One, named by the + inhabitants "Noga-put-sane", or serpent of a kid, utters a cry by night + exactly like the bleating of that animal. I heard one at a spot where no + kid could possibly have been. It is supposed by the natives to lure + travelers to itself by this bleating. Several varieties, when alarmed, + emit a peculiar odor, by which the people become aware of their presence + in a house. We have also the cobra ('Naia haje', Smith) of several colors + or varieties. When annoyed, they raise their heads up about a foot from + the ground, and flatten the neck in a threatening manner, darting out the + tongue and retracting it with great velocity, while their fixed glassy + eyes glare as if in anger. There are also various species of the genus + 'Dendrophis', as the 'Bucephalus viridis', or green tree-climber. They + climb trees in search of birds and eggs, and are soon discovered by all + the birds in the neighborhood collecting and sounding an alarm.* Their + fangs are formed not so much for injecting poison on external objects as + for keeping in any animal or bird of which they have got hold. In the case + of the 'Dasypeltis inornatus' (Smith), the teeth are small, and favorable + for the passage of thin-shelled eggs without breaking. The egg is taken in + unbroken till it is within the gullet, or about two inches behind the + head. The gular teeth placed there break the shell without spilling the + contents, as would be the case if the front teeth were large. The shell is + then ejected. Others appear to be harmless, and even edible. Of the latter + sort is the large python, metse pallah, or tari. The largest specimens of + this are about 15 or 20 feet in length. They are perfectly harmless, and + live on small animals, chiefly the rodentia; occasionally the steinbuck + and pallah fall victims, and are sucked into its comparatively small mouth + in boa-constrictor fashion. One we shot was 11 feet 10 inches long, and as + thick as a man's leg. When shot through the spine, it was capable of + lifting itself up about five feet high, and opened its mouth in a + threatening manner, but the poor thing was more inclined to crawl away. + The flesh is much relished by the Bakalahari and Bushmen. They carry away + each his portion, like logs of wood, over their shoulders. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * "As this snake, 'Bucephalus Capensis', in our opinion, is + not provided with a poisonous fluid to instill into wounds + which these fangs may inflict, they must consequently be + intended for a purpose different to those which exist in + poisonous reptiles. Their use seems to be to offer obstacles + to the retrogression of animals, such as birds, etc., while + they are only partially within the mouth; and from the + circumstance of these fangs being directed backward, and not + admitting of being raised so as to form an angle with the edge + of the jaw, they are well fitted to act as powerful holders + when once they penetrate the skin and soft parts of the prey + which their possessors may be in the act of swallowing. + Without such fangs escapes would be common; with such they are + rare. + + "The natives of South Africa regard the 'Bucephalus Capensis' + as poisonous; but in their opinion we can not concur, as we + have not been able to discover the existence of any glands + manifestly organized for the secretion of poison. The fangs + are inclosed in a soft, pulpy sheath, the inner surface of + which is commonly coated with a thin glairy secretion. This + secretion possibly may have something acrid and irritating in + its qualities, which may, when it enters a wound, cause pain + and even swelling, but nothing of greater importance. + + "The 'Bucephalus Capensis' is generally found on trees, to + which it resorts for the purpose of catching birds, upon which + it delights to feed. The presence of a specimen in a tree is + generally soon discovered by the birds of the neighborhood, + who collect around it and fly to and fro, uttering the most + piercing cries, until some one, more terror-struck than the + rest, actually scans its lips, and, almost without resistance, + becomes a meal for its enemy. During such a proceeding the + snake is generally observed with its head raised about ten or + twelve inches above the branch round which its body and tail + are entwined, with its mouth open and its neck inflated, as if + anxiously endeavoring to increase the terror which it would + almost appear it was aware would sooner or later bring within + its grasp some one of the feathered group. + + "Whatever may be said in ridicule of fascination, it is + nevertheless true that birds, and even quadrupeds, are, under + certain circumstances, unable to retire from the presence of + certain of their enemies; and, what is even more + extraordinary, unable to resist the propensity to advance from + a situation of actual safety into one of the most imminent + danger. This I have often seen exemplified in the case of + birds and snakes; and I have heard of instances equally + curious, in which antelopes and other quadrupeds have been so + bewildered by the sudden appearance of crocodiles, and by the + grimaces and contortions they practiced, as to be unable to + fly or even move from the spot toward which they were + approaching to seize them."—Dr. Andrew Smith's "Reptilia". + + In addition to these interesting statements of the most able + naturalist from whom I have taken this note, it may be added + that fire exercises a fascinating effect on some kinds of + toads. They may be seen rushing into it in the evenings + without ever starting back on feeling pain. Contact with the + hot embers rather increases the energy with which they strive + to gain the hottest parts, and they never cease their + struggles for the centre even when their juices are + coagulating and their limbs stiffening in the roasting heat. + Various insects, also, are thus fascinated; but the scorpions + may be seen coming away from the fire in fierce disgust, and + they are so irritated as to inflict at that time their most + painful stings. +</pre> + <p> + Some of the Bayeiye we met at Sebituane's Ford pretended to be unaffected + by the bite of serpents, and showed the feat of lacerating their arms with + the teeth of such as are unfurnished with the poison-fangs. They also + swallow the poison, by way of gaining notoriety; but Dr. Andrew Smith put + the sincerity of such persons to the test by offering them the fangs of a + really poisonous variety, and found they shrank from the experiment. + </p> + <p> + When we reached the Bamangwato, the chief, Sekomi, was particularly + friendly, collected all his people to the religious services we held, and + explained his reasons for compelling some Englishmen to pay him a horse. + "They would not sell him any powder, though they had plenty; so he + compelled them to give it and the horse for nothing. He would not deny the + extortion to me; that would be 'boherehere' (swindling)." He thus thought + extortion better than swindling. I could not detect any difference in the + morality of the two transactions, but Sekomi's ideas of honesty are the + lowest I have met with in any Bechuana chief, and this instance is + mentioned as the only approach to demanding payment for leave to pass that + I have met with in the south. In all other cases the difficulty has been + to get a chief to give us men to show the way, and the payment has only + been for guides. Englishmen have always very properly avoided giving that + idea to the native mind which we shall hereafter find prove troublesome, + that payment ought to be made for passage through a country. + </p> + <p> + All the Bechuana and Caffre tribes south of the Zambesi practice + circumcision ('boguera'), but the rites observed are carefully concealed. + The initiated alone can approach, but in this town I was once a spectator + of the second part of the ceremony of the circumcision, called "sechu". + Just at the dawn of day, a row of boys of nearly fourteen years of age + stood naked in the kotla, each having a pair of sandals as a shield on his + hands. Facing them stood the men of the town in a similar state of nudity, + all armed with long thin wands, of a tough, strong, supple bush called + moretloa ('Grewia flava'), and engaged in a dance named "koha", in which + questions are put to the boys, as "Will you guard the chief well?" "Will + you herd the cattle well?" and, while the latter give an affirmative + response, the men rush forward to them, and each aims a full-weight blow + at the back of one of the boys. Shielding himself with the sandals above + his head, he causes the supple wand to descend and bend into his back, and + every stroke inflicted thus makes the blood squirt out of a wound a foot + or eighteen inches long. At the end of the dance, the boys' backs are + seamed with wounds and weals, the scars of which remain through life. This + is intended to harden the young soldiers, and prepare them for the rank of + men. After this ceremony, and after killing a rhinoceros, they may marry a + wife. + </p> + <p> + In the "koha" the same respect is shown to age as in many other of their + customs. A younger man, rushing from the ranks to exercise his wand on the + backs of the youths, may be himself the object of chastisement by the + older, and, on the occasion referred to, Sekomi received a severe cut on + the leg from one of his gray-haired people. On my joking with some of the + young men on their want of courage, notwithstanding all the beatings of + which they bore marks, and hinting that our soldiers were brave without + suffering so much, one rose up and said, "Ask him if, when he and I were + compelled by a lion to stop and make a fire, I did not lie down and sleep + as well as himself." In other parts a challenge to try a race would have + been given, and you may frequently see grown men adopting that means of + testing superiority, like so many children. + </p> + <p> + The sechu is practiced by three tribes only. Boguera is observed by all + the Bechuanas and Caffres, but not by the negro tribes beyond 20 Deg. + south. The "boguera" is a civil rather than a religious rite. All the boys + of an age between ten and fourteen or fifteen are selected to be the + companions for life of one of the sons of the chief. They are taken out to + some retired spot in the forest, and huts are erected for their + accommodation; the old men go out and teach them to dance, initiating + them, at the same time, into all the mysteries of African politics and + government. Each one is expected to compose an oration in praise of + himself, called a "leina" or name, and to be able to repeat it with + sufficient fluency. A good deal of beating is required to bring them up to + the required excellency in different matters, so that, when they return + from the close seclusion in which they are kept, they have generally a + number of scars to show on their backs. These bands or regiments, named + mepato in the plural and mopato in the singular, receive particular + appellations; as, the Matsatsi—the suns; the Mabusa—the + rulers; equivalent to our Coldstreams or Enniskillens; and, though living + in different parts of the town, they turn out at the call, and act under + the chief's son as their commander. They recognize a sort of equality and + partial communism ever afterward, and address each other by the title of + molekane or comrade. In cases of offence against their rules, as eating + alone when any of their comrades are within call, or in cases of cowardice + or dereliction of duty, they may strike one another, or any member of a + younger mopato, but never any one of an older band; and when three or four + companies have been made, the oldest no longer takes the field in time of + war, but remains as a guard over the women and children. When a fugitive + comes to a tribe, he is directed to the mopato analogous to that to which + in his own tribe he belongs, and does duty as a member. No one of the + natives knows how old he is. If asked his age, he answers by putting + another question, "Does a man remember when he was born?" Age is reckoned + by the number of mepato they have seen pass through the formulae of + admission. When they see four or five mepato younger than themselves, they + are no longer obliged to bear arms. The oldest individual I ever met + boasted he had seen eleven sets of boys submit to the boguera. Supposing + him to have been fifteen when he saw his own, and fresh bands were added + every six or seven years, he must have been about forty when he saw the + fifth, and may have attained seventy-five or eighty years, which is no + great age; but it seemed so to them, for he had now doubled the age for + superannuation among them. It is an ingenious plan for attaching the + members of the tribe to the chief's family, and for imparting a discipline + which renders the tribe easy of command. On their return to the town from + attendance on the ceremonies of initiation, a prize is given to the lad + who can run fastest, the article being placed where all may see the winner + run up to snatch it. They are then considered men (banona, viri), and can + sit among the elders in the kotla. Formerly they were only boys (basimane, + pueri). The first missionaries set their faces against the boguera, on + account of its connection with heathenism, and the fact that the youths + learned much evil, and became disobedient to their parents. From the + general success of these men, it is perhaps better that younger + missionaries should tread in their footsteps; for so much evil may result + from breaking down the authority on which, to those who can not read, the + whole system of our influence appears to rest, that innovators ought to be + made to propose their new measures as the Locrians did new laws—with + ropes around their necks. + </p> + <p> + Probably the "boguera" was only a sanitary and political measure; and + there being no continuous chain of tribes practicing the rite between the + Arabs and the Bechuanas, or Caffres, and as it is not a religious + ceremony, it can scarcely be traced, as is often done, to a Mohammedan + source. + </p> + <p> + A somewhat analogous ceremony (boyale) takes place for young women, and + the protegees appear abroad drilled under the surveillance of an old lady + to the carrying of water. They are clad during the whole time in a dress + composed of ropes made of alternate pumpkin-seeds and bits of reed strung + together, and wound round the body in a figure-of-eight fashion. They are + inured in this way to bear fatigue, and carry large pots of water under + the guidance of the stern old hag. They have often scars from bits of + burning charcoal having been applied to the forearm, which must have been + done to test their power of bearing pain. + </p> + <p> + The Bamangwato hills are part of the range called Bakaa. The Bakaa tribe, + however, removed to Kolobeng, and is now joined to that of Sechele. The + range stands about 700 or 800 feet above the plains, and is composed of + great masses of black basalt. It is probably part of the latest series of + volcanic rocks in South Africa. At the eastern end these hills have + curious fungoid or cup-shaped hollows, of a size which suggests the idea + of craters. Within these are masses of the rock crystallized in the + columnar form of this formation. The tops of the columns are quite + distinct, of the hexagonal form, like the bottom of the cells of a + honeycomb, but they are not parted from each other as in the Cave of + Fingal. In many parts the lava-streams may be recognized, for there the + rock is rent and split in every direction, but no soil is yet found in the + interstices. When we were sitting in the evening, after a hot day, it was + quite common to hear these masses of basalt split and fall among each + other with the peculiar ringing sound which makes people believe that this + rock contains much iron. Several large masses, in splitting thus by the + cold acting suddenly on parts expanded by the heat of the day, have + slipped down the sides of the hills, and, impinging against each other, + have formed cavities in which the Bakaa took refuge against their enemies. + The numerous chinks and crannies left by these huge fragments made it + quite impossible for their enemies to smoke them out, as was done by the + Boers to the people of Mankopane. + </p> + <p> + This mass of basalt, about six miles long, has tilted up the rocks on both + the east and west; these upheaved rocks are the ancient silurian schists + which formed the bottom of the great primaeval valley, and, like all the + recent volcanic rocks of this country, have a hot fountain in their + vicinity, namely, that of Serinane. + </p> + <p> + In passing through these hills on our way north we enter a pass named + Manakalongwe, or Unicorn's Pass. The unicorn here is a large edible + caterpillar, with an erect, horn-like tail. The pass was also called + Porapora (or gurgling of water), from a stream having run through it. The + scene must have been very different in former times from what it is now. + This is part of the River Mahalapi, which so-called river scarcely merits + the name, any more than the meadows of Edinburgh deserve the title of + North Loch. These hills are the last we shall see for months. The country + beyond consisted of large patches of trap-covered tufa, having little soil + or vegetation except tufts of grass and wait-a-bit thorns, in the midst of + extensive sandy, grass-covered plains. These yellow-colored, grassy + plains, with moretloa and mahatla bushes, form quite a characteristic + feature of the country. The yellow or dun-color prevails during a great + part of the year. The Bakwain hills are an exception to the usual flat + surface, for they are covered with green trees to their tops, and the + valleys are often of the most lovely green. The trees are larger too, and + even the plains of the Bakwain country contain trees instead of bushes. If + you look north from the hills we are now leaving, the country partakes of + this latter character. It appears as if it were a flat covered with a + forest of ordinary-sized trees from 20 to 30 feet high, but when you + travel over it they are not so closely planted but that a wagon with care + may be guided among them. The grass grows in tufts of the size of one's + hat, with bare soft sand between. Nowhere here have we an approach to + English lawns, or the pleasing appearance of English greensward. + </p> + <p> + In no part of this country could European grain be cultivated without + irrigation. The natives all cultivate the dourrha or holcus sorghum, + maize, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, and different kinds of beans; and they + are entirely dependent for the growth of these on rains. Their instrument + of culture is the hoe, and the chief labor falls on the female portion of + the community. In this respect the Bechuanas closely resemble the Caffres. + The men engage in hunting, milk the cows, and have the entire control of + the cattle; they prepare the skins, make the clothing, and in many + respects may be considered a nation of tailors. + </p> + <p> + When at Sekomi's we generally have heard his praises sounded by a man who + rises at break of day, and utters at the top of his voice the oration + which that ruler is said to have composed at his boguera. This repetition + of his "leina", or oration, is so pleasing to a chief, that he generally + sends a handsome present to the man who does it. + </p> + <p> + JANUARY 28TH. Passing on to Letloche, about twenty miles beyond the + Bamangwato, we found a fine supply of water. This is a point of so much + interest in that country that the first question we ask of passers by is, + "Have you had water?" the first inquiry a native puts to a + fellow-countryman is, "Where is the rain?" and, though they are by no + means an untruthful nation, the answer generally is, "I don't know—there + is none—we are killed with hunger and by the sun." If news is asked + for, they commence with, "There is no news: I heard some lies only," and + then tell all they know. + </p> + <p> + This spot was Mr. Gordon Cumming's furthest station north. Our house at + Kolobeng having been quite in the hunting-country, rhinoceros and + buffaloes several times rushed past, and I was able to shoot the latter + twice from our own door. We were favored by visits from this famous hunter + during each of the five years of his warfare with wild animals. Many + English gentlemen following the same pursuits paid their guides and + assistants so punctually that in making arrangements for them we had to be + careful that four did not go where two only were wanted: they knew so well + that an Englishman would pay that they depended implicitly on his word of + honor, and not only would they go and hunt for five or six months in the + north, enduring all the hardships of that trying mode of life, with little + else but meat of game to subsist on, but they willingly went seven hundred + or eight hundred miles to Graham's Town, receiving for wages only a musket + worth fifteen shillings. + </p> + <p> + No one ever deceived them except one man; and as I believed that he was + afflicted with a slight degree of the insanity of greediness, I upheld the + honor of the English name by paying his debts. As the guides of Mr. + Cumming were furnished through my influence, and usually got some strict + charges as to their behavior before parting, looking upon me in the light + of a father, they always came to give me an account of their service, and + told most of those hunting adventures which have since been given to the + world, before we had the pleasure of hearing our friend relate them + himself by our own fireside. I had thus a tolerably good opportunity of + testing their accuracy, and I have no hesitation in saying that for those + who love that sort of thing Mr. Cumming's book conveys a truthful idea of + South African hunting. Some things in it require explanation, but the + numbers of animals said to have been met with and killed are by no means + improbable, considering the amount of large game then in the country. Two + other gentlemen hunting in the same region destroyed in one season no + fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses alone. Sportsmen, however, would not + now find an equal number, for as guns are introduced among the tribes all + these fine animals melt away like snow in spring. In the more remote + districts, where fire-arms have not yet been introduced, with the single + exception of the rhinoceros, the game is to be found in numbers much + greater than Mr. Cumming ever saw. The tsetse is, however, an insuperable + barrier to hunting with horses there, and Europeans can do nothing on + foot. The step of the elephant when charging the hunter, though apparently + not quick, is so long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a + canter. A young sportsman, no matter how great among pheasants, foxes, and + hounds, would do well to pause before resolving to brave fever for the + excitement of risking such a terrific charge; the scream or trumpeting of + this enormous brute when infuriated is more like what the shriek of a + French steam-whistle would be to a man standing on the dangerous part of a + rail-road than any other earthly sound: a horse unused to it will + sometimes stand shivering instead of taking his rider out of danger. It + has happened often that the poor animal's legs do their duty so badly that + he falls and causes his rider to be trodden into a mummy; or, losing his + presence of mind, the rider may allow the horse to dash under a tree and + crack his cranium against a branch. As one charge from an elephant has + made embryo Nimrods bid a final adieu to the chase, incipient Gordon + Cummings might try their nerves by standing on railways till the engines + were within a few yards of them. Hunting elephants on foot would be not + less dangerous,* unless the Ceylon mode of killing them by one shot could + be followed: it has never been tried in Africa. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Since writing the above statement, it has received + confirmation in the reported death of Mr. Wahlberg while + hunting elephants on foot at Lake Ngami. +</pre> + <p> + Advancing to some wells beyond Letloche, at a spot named Kanne, we found + them carefully hedged round by the people of a Bakalahari village situated + near the spot. We had then sixty miles of country in front without water, + and very distressing for the oxen, as it is generally deep soft sand. + There is one sucking-place, around which were congregated great numbers of + Bushwomen with their egg-shells and reeds. Mathuluane now contained no + water, and Motlatsa only a small supply, so we sent the oxen across the + country to the deep well Nkauane, and half were lost on the way. When + found at last they had been five whole days without water. Very large + numbers of elands were met with as usual, though they seldom can get a sip + of drink. Many of the plains here have large expanses of grass without + trees, but you seldom see a treeless horizon. The ostrich is generally + seen quietly feeding on some spot where no one can approach him without + being detected by his wary eye. As the wagon moves along far to the + windward he thinks it is intending to circumvent him, so he rushes up a + mile or so from the leeward, and so near to the front oxen that one + sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird. When he begins to run all the + game in sight follow his example. I have seen this folly taken advantage + of when he was feeding quietly in a valley open at both ends. A number of + men would commence running, as if to cut off his retreat from the end + through which the wind came; and although he had the whole country + hundreds of miles before him by going to the other end, on he madly rushed + to get past the men, and so was speared. He never swerves from the course + he once adopts, but only increases his speed. + </p> + <p> + When the ostrich is feeding his pace is from twenty to twenty-two inches; + when walking, but not feeding, it is twenty-six inches; and when + terrified, as in the case noticed, it is from eleven and a half to + thirteen and even fourteen feet in length. Only in one case was I at all + satisfied of being able to count the rate of speed by a stop-watch, and, + if I am not mistaken, there were thirty in ten seconds; generally one's + eye can no more follow the legs than it can the spokes of a carriage-wheel + in rapid motion. If we take the above number, and twelve feet stride as + the average pace, we have a speed of twenty-six miles an hour. It can not + be very much above that, and is therefore slower than a railway + locomotive. They are sometimes shot by the horseman making a cross cut to + their undeviating course, but few Englishmen ever succeed in killing them. + </p> + <p> + The ostrich begins to lay her eggs before she has fixed on a spot for a + nest, which is only a hollow a few inches deep in the sand, and about a + yard in diameter. Solitary eggs, named by the Bechuanas "lesetla", are + thus found lying forsaken all over the country, and become a prey to the + jackal. She seems averse to risking a spot for a nest, and often lays her + eggs in that of another ostrich, so that as many as forty-five have been + found in one nest. Some eggs contain small concretions of the matter which + forms the shell, as occurs also in the egg of the common fowl: this has + given rise to the idea of stones in the eggs. Both male and female assist + in the incubations; but the numbers of females being always greatest, it + is probable that cases occur in which the females have the entire charge. + Several eggs lie out of the nest, and are thought to be intended as food + for the first of the newly-hatched brood till the rest come out and enable + the whole to start in quest of food. I have several times seen + newly-hatched young in charge of the cock, who made a very good attempt at + appearing lame in the plover fashion, in order to draw off the attention + of pursuers. The young squat down and remain immovable when too small to + run far, but attain a wonderful degree of speed when about the size of + common fowls. It can not be asserted that ostriches are polygamous, though + they often appear to be so. When caught they are easily tamed, but are of + no use in their domesticated state. + </p> + <p> + The egg is possessed of very great vital power. One kept in a room during + more than three months, in a temperature about 60 Deg., when broken was + found to have a partially-developed live chick in it. The Bushmen + carefully avoid touching the eggs, or leaving marks of human feet near + them, when they find a nest. They go up the wind to the spot, and with a + long stick remove some of them occasionally, and, by preventing any + suspicion, keep the hen laying on for months, as we do with fowls. The + eggs have a strong, disagreeable flavor, which only the keen appetite of + the Desert can reconcile one to. The Hottentots use their trowsers to + carry home the twenty or twenty-five eggs usually found in a nest; and it + has happened that an Englishman, intending to imitate this knowing dodge, + comes to the wagons with blistered legs, and, after great toil, finds all + the eggs uneatable, from having been some time sat upon. Our countrymen + invariably do best when they continue to think, speak, and act in their + own proper character. + </p> + <p> + The food of the ostrich consists of pods and seeds of different kinds of + leguminous plants, with leaves of various plants; and, as these are often + hard and dry, he picks up a great quantity of pebbles, many of which are + as large as marbles. He picks up also some small bulbs, and occasionally a + wild melon to afford moisture, for one was found with a melon which had + choked him by sticking in his throat. It requires the utmost address of + the Bushmen, crawling for miles on their stomachs, to stalk them + successfully; yet the quantity of feathers collected annually shows that + the numbers slain must be considerable, as each bird has only a few in the + wings and tail. The male bird is of a jet black glossy color, with the + single exception of the white feathers, which are objects of trade. + Nothing can be finer than the adaptation of those flossy feathers for the + climate of the Kalahari, where these birds abound; for they afford a + perfect shade to the body, with free ventilation beneath them. The hen + ostrich is of a dark brownish-gray color, and so are the half-grown cocks. + </p> + <p> + The organs of vision in this bird are placed so high that he can detect an + enemy at a great distance, but the lion sometimes kills him. The flesh is + white and coarse, though, when in good condition, it resembles in some + degree that of a tough turkey. It seeks safety in flight; but when pursued + by dogs it may be seen to turn upon them and inflict a kick, which is + vigorously applied, and sometimes breaks the dog's back. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 8. + </h2> + <p> + Effects of Missionary Efforts—Belief in the Deity—Ideas of the + Bakwains on Religion—Departure from their Country—Salt-pans—Sour + Curd—Nchokotsa—Bitter Waters—Thirst suffered by the wild + Animals—Wanton Cruelty in Hunting—Ntwetwe—Mowana-trees—Their + extraordinary Vitality—The Mopane-tree—The Morala—The + Bushmen—Their Superstitions—Elephant-hunting—Superiority + of civilized over barbarous Sportsmen—The Chief Kaisa—His Fear + of Responsibility—Beauty of the Country at Unku—The Mohonono + Bush—Severe Labor in cutting our Way—Party seized with Fever—Escape + of our Cattle—Bakwain Mode of recapturing them—Vagaries of + sick Servants— Discovery of grape-bearing Vines—An Ant-eater—Difficulty + of passing through the Forest—Sickness of my Companion—The + Bushmen—Their Mode of destroying Lions—Poisons—The + solitary Hill—A picturesque Valley—Beauty of the Country—Arrive + at the Sanshureh River—The flooded Prairies—A pontooning + Expedition—A night Bivouac—The Chobe— Arrive at the + Village of Moremi—Surprise of the Makololo at our sudden Appearance—Cross + the Chobe on our way to Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + The Bakalahari, who live at Motlatsa wells, have always been very friendly + to us, and listen attentively to instruction conveyed to them in their own + tongue. It is, however, difficult to give an idea to a European of the + little effect teaching produces, because no one can realize the + degradation to which their minds have been sunk by centuries of barbarism + and hard struggling for the necessaries of life: like most others, they + listen with respect and attention, but, when we kneel down and address an + unseen Being, the position and the act often appear to them so ridiculous + that they can not refrain from bursting into uncontrollable laughter. + After a few services they get over this tendency. I was once present when + a missionary attempted to sing among a wild heathen tribe of Bechuanas, + who had no music in their composition; the effect on the risible faculties + of the audience was such that the tears actually ran down their cheeks. + Nearly all their thoughts are directed to the supply of their bodily + wants, and this has been the case with the race for ages. If asked, then, + what effect the preaching of the Gospel has at the commencement on such + individuals, I am unable to tell, except that some have confessed long + afterward that they then first began to pray in secret. Of the effects of + a long-continued course of instruction there can be no reasonable doubt, + as mere nominal belief has never been considered sufficient proof of + conversion by any body of missionaries; and, after the change which has + been brought about by this agency, we have good reason to hope well for + the future—those I have myself witnessed behaving in the manner + described, when kindly treated in sickness often utter imploring words to + Jesus, and I believe sometimes really do pray to him in their afflictions. + As that great Redeemer of the guilty seeks to save all he can, we may hope + that they find mercy through His blood, though little able to appreciate + the sacrifice He made. The indirect and scarcely appreciable blessings of + Christian missionaries going about doing good are thus probably not so + despicable as some might imagine; there is no necessity for beginning to + tell even the most degraded of these people of the existence of a God or + of a future state, the facts being universally admitted. Every thing that + can not be accounted for by common causes is ascribed to the Deity, as + creation, sudden death, etc. "How curiously God made these things!" is a + common expression; as is also, "He was not killed by disease, he was + killed by God." And, when speaking of the departed—though there is + naught in the physical appearance of the dead to justify the expression—they + say, "He has gone to the gods," the phrase being identical with "abiit ad + plures". + </p> + <p> + On questioning intelligent men among the Bakwains as to their former + knowledge of good and evil, of God and the future state, they have scouted + the idea of any of them ever having been without a tolerably clear + conception on all these subjects. Respecting their sense of right and + wrong, they profess that nothing we indicate as sin ever appeared to them + as otherwise, except the statement that it was wrong to have more wives + than one; and they declare that they spoke in the same way of the direct + influence exercised by God in giving rain in answer to prayers of the + rain-makers, and in granting deliverances in times of danger, as they do + now, before they ever heard of white men. The want, however, of any form + of public worship, or of idols, or of formal prayers or sacrifice, make + both Caffres and Bechuanas appear as among the most godless races of + mortals known any where. But, though they all possess a distinct knowledge + of a deity and of a future state, they show so little reverence, and feel + so little connection with either, that it is not surprising that some have + supposed them entirely ignorant on the subject. At Lotlakani we met an old + Bushman who at first seemed to have no conception of morality whatever; + when his heart was warmed by our presents of meat, he sat by the fire + relating his early adventures: among these was killing five other Bushmen. + "Two," said he, counting on his fingers, "were females, one a male, and + the other two calves." "What a villain you are, to boast of killing women + and children of your own nation! what will God say when you appear before + him?" "He will say," replied he, "that I was a very clever fellow." This + man now appeared to me as without any conscience, and, of course, + responsibility; but, on trying to enlighten him by further conversation, I + discovered that, though he was employing the word that is used among the + Bakwains when speaking of the Deity, he had only the idea of a chief, and + was all the while referring to Sekomi, while his victims were a party of + rebel Bushmen against whom he had been sent. If I had known the name of + God in the Bushman tongue the mistake could scarcely have occurred. It + must, however, be recollected, while reflecting on the degradation of the + natives of South Africa, that the farther north, the more distinct do the + native ideas on religious subjects become, and I have not had any + intercourse with either Caffres or Bushmen in their own tongues. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Motlatsa on the 8th of February, 1853, we passed down the Mokoko, + which, in the memory of persons now living, was a flowing stream. We + ourselves once saw a heavy thunder-shower make it assume its ancient + appearance of running to the north. Between Lotlakani and Nchokotsa we + passed the small well named Orapa; and another called Thutsa lay a little + to our right—its water is salt and purgative; the salt-pan Chuantsa, + having a cake of salt one inch and a half in thickness, is about ten miles + to the northeast of Orapa. This deposit contains a bitter salt in + addition, probably the nitrate of lime; the natives, in order to render it + palatable and wholesome, mix the salt with the juice of a gummy plant, + then place it in the sand and bake it by making a fire over it; the lime + then becomes insoluble and tasteless. + </p> + <p> + The Bamangwato keep large flocks of sheep and goats at various spots on + this side of the Desert. They thrive wonderfully well wherever salt and + bushes are to be found. The milk of goats does not coagulate with + facility, like that of cows, on account of its richness; but the natives + have discovered that the infusion of the fruit of a solanaceous plant, + Toluane, quickly produces the effect. The Bechuanas put their milk into + sacks made of untanned hide, with the hair taken off. Hung in the sun, it + soon coagulates; the whey is then drawn off by a plug at the bottom, and + fresh milk added, until the sack is full of a thick, sour curd, which, + when one becomes used to it, is delicious. The rich mix this in the + porridge into which they convert their meal, and, as it is thus rendered + nutritious and strength-giving, an expression of scorn is sometimes heard + respecting the poor or weak, to the effect that "they are water-porridge + men." It occupies the place of our roast beef. + </p> + <p> + At Nchokotsa, the rainy season having this year been delayed beyond the + usual time, we found during the day the thermometer stand at 96 Deg. in + the coolest possible shade. This height at Kolobeng always portended rain + at hand. At Kuruman, when it rises above 84 Deg., the same phenomenon may + be considered near; while farther north it rises above 100 Deg. before the + cooling influence of the evaporation from rain may be expected. Here the + bulb of the thermometer, placed two inches beneath the soil, stood at 128 + Deg. All around Nchokotsa the country looked parched, and the glare from + the white efflorescence which covers the extensive pans on all sides was + most distressing to the eyes. The water of Nchokotsa was bitter, and + presented indications not to be mistaken of having passed through animal + systems before. All these waters contain nitrates, which stimulate the + kidneys and increase the thirst. The fresh additions of water required in + cooking meat, each imparting its own portion of salt, make one grumble at + the cook for putting too much seasoning in, while in fact he has put in + none at all, except that contained in the water. Of bitter, bad, + disgusting waters I have drunk not a few nauseous draughts; you may try + alum, vitriol, boiling, etc., etc., to convince yourself that you are not + more stupid than travelers you will meet at home, but the ammonia and + other salts are there still; and the only remedy is to get away as quickly + as possible to the north. + </p> + <p> + We dug out several wells; and as we had on each occasion to wait till the + water flowed in again, and then allow our cattle to feed a day or two and + slake their thirst thoroughly, as far as that could be done, before + starting, our progress was but slow. At Koobe there was such a mass of mud + in the pond, worked up by the wallowing rhinoceros to the consistency of + mortar, that only by great labor could we get a space cleared at one side + for the water to ooze through and collect in for the oxen. Should the + rhinoceros come back, a single roll in the great mass we had thrown on one + side would have rendered all our labor vain. It was therefore necessary + for us to guard the spot at night. On these great flats all around we saw + in the white sultry glare herds of zebras, gnus, and occasionally + buffaloes, standing for days, looking wistfully toward the wells for a + share of the nasty water. It is mere wanton cruelty to take advantage of + the necessities of these poor animals, and shoot them down one after + another, without intending to make the smallest use of either the flesh, + skins, or horns. In shooting by night, animals are more frequently wounded + than killed; the flowing life-stream increases the thirst, so that in + desperation they come slowly up to drink in spite of the danger, "I must + drink, though I die." The ostrich, even when not wounded, can not, with + all his wariness, resist the excessive desire to slake his burning thirst. + It is Bushman-like practice to take advantage of its piteous necessities, + for most of the feathers they obtain are procured in this way; but they + eat the flesh, and are so far justifiable. + </p> + <p> + I could not order my men to do what I would not do myself, but, though I + tried to justify myself on the plea of necessity, I could not adopt this + mode of hunting. If your object is to secure the best specimens for a + museum, it may be allowable, and even deserving of commendation, as + evincing a desire to kill only those really wanted; but if, as has been + practiced by some Griquas and others who came into the country after Mr. + Cumming, and fired away indiscriminately, great numbers of animals are + wounded and allowed to perish miserably, or are killed on the spot and + left to be preyed on by vultures and hyenas, and all for the sole purpose + of making a "bag", then I take it to be evident that such sportsmen are + pretty far gone in the hunting form of insanity. + </p> + <p> + My men shot a black rhinoceros in this way, and I felt glad to get away + from the only place in which I ever had any share in night-hunting. We + passed over the immense pan Ntwetwe, on which the latitude could be taken + as at sea. Great tracts of this part of the country are of calcareous + tufa, with only a thin coating of soil; numbers of "baobab" and "mopane" + trees abound all over this hard, smooth surface. About two miles beyond + the northern bank of the pan we unyoked under a fine specimen of the + baobab, here called, in the language of Bechuanas, Mowana; it consisted of + six branches united into one trunk. At three feet from the ground it was + eighty-five feet in circumference. + </p> + <p> + These mowana-trees are the most wonderful examples of vitality in the + country; it was therefore with surprise that we came upon a dead one at + Tlomtla, a few miles beyond this spot. It is the same as those which + Adamson and others believed, from specimens seen in Western Africa, to + have been alive before the flood. Arguing with a peculiar mental + idiosyncracy resembling color-blindness, common among the French of the + time, these savans came to the conclusion that "therefore there never was + any flood at all." I would back a true mowana against a dozen floods, + provided you do not boil it in hot sea-water; but I can not believe that + any of those now alive had a chance of being subjected to the experiment + of even the Noachian deluge. The natives make a strong cord from the + fibres contained in the pounded bark. The whole of the trunk, as high as + they can reach, is consequently often quite denuded of its covering, which + in the case of almost any other tree would cause its death, but this has + no effect on the mowana except to make it throw out a new bark, which is + done in the way of granulation. This stripping of the bark is repeated + frequently, so that it is common to see the lower five or six feet an inch + or two less in diameter than the parts above; even portions of the bark + which have broken in the process of being taken off, but remain separated + from the parts below, though still connected with the tree above, continue + to grow, and resemble closely marks made in the necks of the cattle of the + island of Mull and of Caffre oxen, where a piece of skin is detached and + allowed to hang down. No external injury, not even a fire, can destroy + this tree from without; nor can any injury be done from within, as it is + quite common to find it hollow; and I have seen one in which twenty or + thirty men could lie down and sleep as in a hut. Nor does cutting down + exterminate it, for I saw instances in Angola in which it continued to + grow in length after it was lying on the ground. Those trees called + exogenous grow by means of successive layers on the outside. The inside + may be dead, or even removed altogether, without affecting the life of the + tree. This is the case with most of the trees of our climate. The other + class is called endogenous, and increases by layers applied to the inside; + and when the hollow there is full, the growth is stopped—the tree must + die. Any injury is felt most severely by the first class on the bark; by + the second on the inside; while the inside of the exogenous may be + removed, and the outside of the endogenous may be cut, without stopping + the growth in the least. The mowana possesses the powers of both. The + reason is that each of the laminae possesses its own independent vitality; + in fact, the baobab is rather a gigantic bulb run up to seed than a tree. + Each of eighty-four concentric rings had, in the case mentioned, grown an + inch after the tree had been blown over. The roots, which may often be + observed extending along the surface of the ground forty or fifty yards + from the trunk, also retain their vitality after the tree is laid low; and + the Portuguese now know that the best way to treat them is to let them + alone, for they occupy much more room when cut down than when growing. + </p> + <p> + The wood is so spongy and soft that an axe can be struck in so far with a + good blow that there is great difficulty in pulling it out again. In the + dead mowana mentioned the concentric rings were well seen. The average for + a foot at three different places was eighty-one and a half of these rings. + Each of the laminae can be seen to be composed of two, three, or four + layers of ligneous tubes; but supposing each ring the growth of one year, + and the semidiameter of a mowana of one hundred feet in circumference + about seventeen feet, if the central point were in the centre of the tree, + then its age would lack some centuries of being as old as the Christian + era (1400). Though it possesses amazing vitality, it is difficult to + believe that this great baby-looking bulb or tree is as old as the + Pyramids. + </p> + <p> + The mopane-tree ('bauhinia') is remarkable for the little shade its leaves + afford. They fold together and stand nearly perpendicular during the heat + of the day, so that only the shadow of their edges comes to the ground. On + these leaves the small larvae of a winged insect appear covered over with + a sweet, gummy substance. The people collect this in great quantities, and + use it as food;* and the lopane—large caterpillars three inches + long, which feed on the leaves, and are seen strung together—share + the same fate. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I am favored with Mr. Westwood's remarks on this insect as + follows: + + "Taylor Institution, Oxford, July 9, 1857. + + "The insect (and its secretion) on the leaves of the bauhinia, + and which is eaten by the Africans, proves to be a species of + Psylla, a genus of small, very active Homoptera, of which we + have one very common species in the box; but our species, + Psylla buxi, emits its secretion in the shape of very long, + white, cotton-like filaments. But there is a species in New + Holland, found on the leaves of the Eucalyptus, which emits a + secretion very similar to that of Dr. Livingstone's species. + This Australian secretion (and its insect originator) is known + by the name of wo-me-la, and, like Dr. Livingstone's, it is + scraped off the leaves and eaten by the aborigines as a + saccharine dainty. The insects found beneath the secretion, + brought home by Dr. Livingstone, are in the pupa state, being + flattened, with large scales at the sides of the body, + inclosing the future wings of the insect. The body is pale + yellowish-colored, with dark-brown spots. It will be + impossible to describe the species technically until we + receive the perfect insect. The secretion itself is flat and + circular, apparently deposited in concentric rings, gradually + increasing in size till the patches are about a quarter or a + third of an inch in diameter. + + Jno. O. Westwood." +</pre> + <p> + In passing along we see every where the power of vegetation in breaking up + the outer crust of tufa. A mopane-tree, growing in a small chink, as it + increases in size rends and lifts up large fragments of the rock all + around it, subjecting them to the disintegrating influence of the + atmosphere. The wood is hard, and of a fine red color, and is named + iron-wood by the Portuguese. The inhabitants, observing that the mopane is + more frequently struck by lightning than other trees, caution travelers + never to seek its shade when a thunder-storm is near—"Lightning + hates it;" while another tree, the "Morala", which has three spines + opposite each other on the branches, and has never been known to be + touched by lightning, is esteemed, even as far as Angola, a protection + against the electric fluid. Branches of it may be seen placed on the + houses of the Portuguese for the same purpose. The natives, moreover, + believe that a man is thoroughly protected from an enraged elephant if he + can get into the shade of this tree. There may not be much in this, but + there is frequently some foundation of truth in their observations. + </p> + <p> + At Rapesh we came among our old friends the Bushmen, under Horoye. This + man, Horoye, a good specimen of that tribe, and his son Mokantsa and + others, were at least six feet high, and of a darker color than the + Bushmen of the south. They have always plenty of food and water; and as + they frequent the Zouga as often as the game in company with which they + live, their life is very different from that of the inhabitants of the + thirsty plains of the Kalahari. The animal they refrain from eating is the + goat, which fact, taken in connection with the superstitious dread which + exists in every tribe toward a particular animal, is significant of their + feelings to the only animals they could have domesticated in their desert + home. They are a merry laughing set, and do not tell lies wantonly. They + have in their superstitious rites more appearance of worship than the + Bechuanas; and at a Bushman's grave we once came to on the Zouga, the + observances showed distinctly that they regarded the dead as still in + another state of being; for they addressed him, and requested him not to + be offended even though they wished still to remain a little while longer + in this world. + </p> + <p> + Those among whom we now were kill many elephants, and when the moon is + full choose that time for the chase, on account of its coolness. Hunting + this animal is the best test of courage this country affords. The Bushmen + choose the moment succeeding a charge, when the elephant is out of breath, + to run in and give him a stab with their long-bladed spears. In this case + the uncivilized have the advantage over us, but I believe that with half + their training Englishmen would beat the Bushmen. Our present form of + civilization does not necessarily produce effeminacy, though it + unquestionably increases the beauty, courage, and physical powers of the + race. When at Kolobeng I took notes of the different numbers of elephants + killed in the course of the season by the various parties which went past + our dwelling, in order to form an idea of the probable annual destruction + of this noble animal. There were parties of Griquas, Bechuanas, Boers, and + Englishmen. All were eager to distinguish themselves, and success depended + mainly on the courage which leads the huntsman to go close to the animal, + and not waste the force of his shot on the air. It was noticeable that the + average for the natives was under one per man, for the Griquas one per + man, for the Boers two, and for the English officers twenty each. This was + the more remarkable, as the Griquas, Boers, and Bechuanas employed both + dogs and natives to assist them, while the English hunters generally had + no assistance from either. They approached to within thirty yards of the + animal, while the others stood at a distance of a hundred yards, or even + more, and of course spent all the force of their bullets on the air. One + elephant was found by Mr. Oswell with quite a crowd of bullets in his + side, all evidently fired in this style, and they had not gone near the + vital parts. + </p> + <p> + It would thus appear that our more barbarous neighbors do not possess half + the courage of the civilized sportsman. And it is probable that in this + respect, as well as in physical development, we are superior to our + ancestors. The coats of mail and greaves of the Knights of Malta, and the + armor from the Tower exhibited at the Eglinton tournament, may be + considered decisive as to the greater size attained by modern civilized + men. + </p> + <p> + At Maila we spent a Sunday with Kaisa, the head man of a village of + Mashona, who had fled from the iron sway of Mosilikatse, whose country + lies east of this. I wished him to take charge of a packet of letters for + England, to be forwarded when, as is the custom of the Bamangwato, the + Bechuanas come hither in search of skins and food among the Bushmen; but + he could not be made to comprehend that there was no danger in the + consignment. He feared the responsibility and guilt if any thing should + happen to them; so I had to bid adieu to all hope of letting my family + hear of my welfare till I should reach the west coast. + </p> + <p> + At Unku we came into a tract of country which had been visited by + refreshing showers long before, and every spot was covered with grass run + up to seed, and the flowers of the forest were in full bloom. Instead of + the dreary prospect around Koobe and Nchokotsa, we had here a delightful + scene, all the ponds full of water, and the birds twittering joyfully. As + the game can now obtain water every where, they become very shy, and can + not be found in their accustomed haunts. + </p> + <p> + 1ST MARCH. The thermometer in the shade generally stood at 98 Degrees from + 1 to 3 P.M., but it sank as low as 65 Deg. by night, so that the heat was + by no means exhausting. At the surface of the ground, in the sun, the + thermometer marked 125 Deg., and three inches below it 138 Deg. The hand + can not be held on the ground, and even the horny soles of the feet of the + natives must be protected by sandals of hide; yet the ants were busy + working on it. The water in the ponds was as high as 100 Deg.; but as + water does not conduct heat readily downward, deliciously cool water may + be obtained by any one walking into the middle and lifting up the water + from the bottom to the surface with his hands. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding to the north, from Kama-kama, we entered into dense Mohonono + bush, which required the constant application of the axe by three of our + party for two days. This bush has fine silvery leaves, and the bark has a + sweet taste. The elephant, with his usual delicacy of taste, feeds much on + it. On emerging into the plains beyond, we found a number of Bushmen, who + afterward proved very serviceable. The rains had been copious, but now + great numbers of pools were drying up. Lotus-plants abounded in them, and + a low, sweet-scented plant covered their banks. Breezes came occasionally + to us from these drying-up pools, but the pleasant odor they carried + caused sneezing in both myself and people; and on the 10th of March (when + in lat. 19d 16' 11" S., long. 24d 24' E.) we were brought to a stand by + four of the party being seized with fever. I had seen this disease before, + but did not at once recognize it as the African fever; I imagined it was + only a bilious attack, arising from full feeding on flesh, for, the large + game having been very abundant, we always had a good supply; but instead + of the first sufferers recovering soon, every man of our party was in a + few days laid low, except a Bakwain and myself. He managed the oxen, while + I attended to the wants of the patients, and went out occasionally with + the Bushmen to get a zebra or buffalo, so as to induce them to remain with + us. + </p> + <p> + Here for the first time I had leisure to follow the instructions of my + kind teacher, Mr. Maclear, and calculated several longitudes from lunar + distances. The hearty manner in which that eminent astronomer and frank, + friendly man had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my work, + conduced more than any thing else to inspire me with perseverance in + making astronomical observations throughout the journey. + </p> + <p> + The grass here was so tall that the oxen became uneasy, and one night the + sight of a hyaena made them rush away into the forest to the east of us. + On rising on the morning of the 19th, I found that my Bakwain lad had run + away with them. This I have often seen with persons of this tribe, even + when the cattle are startled by a lion. Away go the young men in company + with them, and dash through bush and brake for miles, till they think the + panic is a little subsided; they then commence whistling to the cattle in + the manner they do when milking the cows: having calmed them, they remain + as a guard till the morning. The men generally return with their shins + well peeled by the thorns. Each comrade of the Mopato would expect his + fellow to act thus, without looking for any other reward than the brief + praise of the chief. Our lad, Kibopechoe, had gone after the oxen, but had + lost them in the rush through the flat, trackless forest. He remained on + their trail all the next day and all the next night. On Sunday morning, as + I was setting off in search of him, I found him near the wagon. He had + found the oxen late in the afternoon of Saturday, and had been obliged to + stand by them all night. It was wonderful how he managed without a + compass, and in such a country, to find his way home at all, bringing + about forty oxen with him. + </p> + <p> + The Bechuanas will keep on the sick-list as long as they feel any + weakness; so I at last began to be anxious that they should make a little + exertion to get forward on our way. One of them, however, happening to + move a hundred yards from the wagon, fell down, and, being unobserved, + remained the whole night in the pouring rain totally insensible; another + was subjected to frequent swooning; but, making beds in the wagons for + these our worst cases, with the help of the Bakwain and the Bushmen, we + moved slowly on. We had to nurse the sick like children; and, like + children recovering from illness, the better they became the more impudent + they grew. This was seen in the peremptory orders they would give with + their now piping voices. Nothing that we did pleased them; and the + laughter with which I received their ebullitions, though it was only the + real expression of gladness at their recovery, and amusement at the + ridiculous part they acted, only increased their chagrin. The want of + power in the man who guided the two front oxen, or, as he was called, the + "leader", caused us to be entangled with trees, both standing and fallen, + and the labor of cutting them down was even more severe than ordinary; + but, notwithstanding an immense amount of toil, my health continued good. + </p> + <p> + We wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path, so kept a course on the + magnetic meridian from Lurilopepe. The necessity of making a new path much + increased our toil. We were, however, rewarded in lat. 18 Degrees with a + sight we had not enjoyed the year before, namely, large patches of + grape-bearing vines. There they stood before my eyes; but the sight was so + entirely unexpected that I stood some time gazing at the clusters of + grapes with which they were loaded, with no more thought of plucking than + if I had been beholding them in a dream. The Bushmen know and eat them; + but they are not well flavored on account of the great astringency of the + seeds, which are in shape and size like split peas. The elephants are fond + of the fruit, plant, and root alike. I here found an insect which preys on + ants; it is about an inch and a quarter long, as thick as a crow-quill, + and covered with black hair. It puts its head into a little hole in the + ground, and quivers its tail rapidly; the ants come near to see it, and it + snaps up each as he comes within the range of the forceps on its tail. As + its head is beneath the ground, it becomes a question how it can guide its + tail to the ants. It is probably a new species of ant-lion ('Myrmeleon + formicaleo'), great numbers of which, both in the larvae and complete + state, are met with. The ground under every tree is dotted over with their + ingenious pitfalls, and the perfect insect, the form of which most persons + are familiar with in the dragon-fly, may be seen using its tail in the + same active manner as this insect did. Two may be often seen joined in + their flight, the one holding on by the tail-forceps to the neck of the + other. On first observing this imperfect insect, I imagined the forceps + were on its head; but when the insect moved, their true position was seen. + </p> + <p> + The forest, through which we were slowly toiling, daily became more dense, + and we were kept almost constantly at work with the axe; there was much + more leafiness in the trees here than farther south. The leaves are + chiefly of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms, and are exceedingly beautiful + when seen against the sky; a great variety of the papilionaceous family + grow in this part of the country. + </p> + <p> + Fleming had until this time always assisted to drive his own wagon, but + about the end of March he knocked up, as well as his people. As I could + not drive two wagons, I shared with him the remaining water, half a + caskful, and went on, with the intention of coming back for him as soon as + we should reach the next pool. Heavy rain now commenced; I was employed + the whole day in cutting down trees, and every stroke of the axe brought + down a thick shower on my back, which in the hard work was very + refreshing, as the water found its way down into my shoes. In the evening + we met some Bushmen, who volunteered to show us a pool; and having + unyoked, I walked some miles in search of it. As it became dark they + showed their politeness—a quality which is by no means confined + entirely to the civilized—by walking in front, breaking the branches + which hung across the path, and pointing out the fallen trees. On + returning to the wagon, we found that being left alone had brought out + some of Fleming's energy, for he had managed to come up. + </p> + <p> + As the water in this pond dried up, we were soon obliged to move again. + One of the Bushmen took out his dice, and, after throwing them, said that + God told him to go home. He threw again in order to show me the command, + but the opposite result followed; so he remained and was useful, for we + lost the oxen again by a lion driving them off to a very great distance. + The lions here are not often heard. They seem to have a wholesome dread of + the Bushmen, who, when they observe evidence of a lion's having made a + full meal, follow up his spoor so quietly that his slumbers are not + disturbed. One discharges a poisoned arrow from a distance of only a few + feet, while his companion simultaneously throws his skin cloak on the + beast's head. The sudden surprise makes the lion lose his presence of + mind, and he bounds away in the greatest confusion and terror. Our friends + here showed me the poison which they use on these occasions. It is the + entrails of a caterpillar called N'gwa, half an inch long. They squeeze + out these, and place them all around the bottom of the barb, and allow the + poison to dry in the sun. They are very careful in cleaning their nails + after working with it, as a small portion introduced into a scratch acts + like morbid matter in dissection wounds. The agony is so great that the + person cuts himself, calls for his mother's breast as if he were returned + in idea to his childhood again, or flies from human habitations a raging + maniac. The effects on the lion are equally terrible. He is heard moaning + in distress, and becomes furious, biting the trees and ground in rage. + </p> + <p> + As the Bushmen have the reputation of curing the wounds of this poison, I + asked how this was effected. They said that they administer the + caterpillar itself in combination with fat; they also rub fat into the + wound, saying that "the N'gwa wants fat, and, when it does not find it in + the body, kills the man: we give it what it wants, and it is content:" a + reason which will commend itself to the enlightened among ourselves. + </p> + <p> + The poison more generally employed is the milky juice of the tree + Euphorbia ('E. arborescens'). This is particularly obnoxious to the equine + race. When a quantity is mixed with the water of a pond a whole herd of + zebras will fall dead from the effects of the poison before they have + moved away two miles. It does not, however, kill oxen or men. On them it + acts as a drastic purgative only. This substance is used all over the + country, though in some places the venom of serpents and a certain bulb, + 'Amaryllis toxicaria', are added, in order to increase the virulence. + </p> + <p> + Father Pedro, a Jesuit, who lived at Zumbo, made a balsam, containing a + number of plants and CASTOR OIL, as a remedy for poisoned arrow-wounds. It + is probable that he derived his knowledge from the natives as I did, and + that the reputed efficacy of the balsam is owing to its fatty constituent. + </p> + <p> + In cases of the bites of serpents a small key ought to be pressed down + firmly on the wound, the orifice of the key being applied to the puncture, + until a cupping-glass can be got from one of the natives. A watch-key + pressed firmly on the point stung by a scorpion extracts the poison, and a + mixture of fat or oil and ipecacuanha relieves the pain. + </p> + <p> + The Bushmen of these districts are generally fine, well-made men, and are + nearly independent of every one. We observed them to be fond of a root + somewhat like a kidney potato, and the kernel of a nut, which Fleming + thought was a kind of betel; the tree is a fine, large-spreading one, and + the leaves palmate. From the quantities of berries and the abundance of + game in these parts, the Bushmen can scarcely ever be badly off for food. + As I could, without much difficulty, keep them well supplied with meat, + and wished them to remain, I proposed that they should bring their wives + to get a share, but they remarked that the women could always take care of + themselves. + </p> + <p> + None of the men of our party had died, but two seemed unlikely to recover; + and Kibopechoe, my willing Mokwain, at last became troubled with boils, + and then got all the symptoms of fever. As he lay down, the others began + to move about, and complained of weakness only. Believing that frequent + change of place was conducive to their recovery, we moved along as much as + we could, and came to the hill N'gwa (lat. 18d 27' 20" S., long. 24d 13' + 36" E.). This being the only hill we had seen since leaving Bamangwato, we + felt inclined to take off our hats to it. It is three or four hundred feet + high, and covered with trees. Its geographical position is pretty + accurately laid down from occultation and other observations. I may + mention that the valley on its northern side, named Kandehy or Kandehai, + is as picturesque a spot as is to be seen in this part of Africa. The open + glade, surrounded by forest trees of various hues, had a little stream + meandering in the centre. A herd of reddish-colored antelopes (pallahs) + stood on one side, near a large baobab, looking at us, and ready to run up + the hill; while gnus, tsessebes, and zebras gazed in astonishment at the + intruders. Some fed carelessly, and others put on the peculiar air of + displeasure which these animals sometimes assume before they resolve on + flight. A large white rhinoceros came along the bottom of the valley with + his slow sauntering gait without noticing us; he looked as if he meant to + indulge in a mud bath. Several buffaloes, with their dark visages, stood + under the trees on the side opposite to the pallahs. It being Sunday, all + was peace, and, from the circumstances in which our party was placed, we + could not but reflect on that second stage of our existence which we hope + will lead us into scenes of perfect beauty. If pardoned in that free way + the Bible promises, death will be a glorious thing; but to be consigned to + wait for the Judgment-day, with nothing else to ponder on but sins we + would rather forget, is a cheerless prospect. + </p> + <p> + Our Bushmen wished to leave us, and, as there was no use in trying to + thwart these independent gentlemen, I paid them, and allowed them to go. + The payment, however, acted as a charm on some strangers who happened to + be present, and induced them to volunteer their aid. + </p> + <p> + The game hereabouts is very tame. Koodoos and giraffes stood gazing at me + as a strange apparition when I went out with the Bushmen. On one occasion + a lion came at daybreak, and went round and round the oxen. I could only + get a glimpse of him occasionally from the wagon-box; but, though barely + thirty yards off, I could not get a shot. He then began to roar at the top + of his voice; but the oxen continuing to stand still, he was so disgusted + that he went off, and continued to use his voice for a long time in the + distance. I could not see that he had a mane; if he had not, then even the + maneless variety can use their tongues. We heard others also roar; and, + when they found they could not frighten the oxen, they became equally + angry. This we could observe in their tones. + </p> + <p> + As we went north the country became very lovely; many new trees appeared; + the grass was green, and often higher than the wagons; the vines festooned + the trees, among which appeared the real banian ('Ficus Indica'), with its + drop-shoots, and the wild date and palmyra, and several other trees which + were new to me; the hollows contained large patches of water. Next came + water-courses, now resembling small rivers, twenty yards broad and four + feet deep. The further we went, the broader and deeper these became; their + bottoms contained great numbers of deep holes, made by elephants wading in + them; in these the oxen floundered desperately, so that our wagon-pole + broke, compelling us to work up to the breast in water for three hours and + a half; yet I suffered no harm. + </p> + <p> + We at last came to the Sanshureh, which presented an impassable barrier, + so we drew up under a magnificent baobab-tree, (lat. 18d 4' 27" S., long. + 24d 6' 20" E.), and resolved to explore the river for a ford. The great + quantity of water we had passed through was part of the annual inundation + of the Chobe; and this, which appeared a large, deep river, filled in many + parts with reeds, and having hippopotami in it, is only one of the + branches by which it sends its superabundant water to the southeast. From + the hill N'gwa a ridge of higher land runs to the northeast, and bounds + its course in that direction. We, being ignorant of this, were in the + valley, and the only gap in the whole country destitute of tsetse. In + company with the Bushmen I explored all the banks of the Sanshureh to the + west till we came into tsetse on that side. We waded a long way among the + reeds in water breast deep, but always found a broad, deep space free from + vegetation and unfordable. A peculiar kind of lichen, which grows on the + surface of the soil, becomes detached and floats on the water, giving out + a very disagreeable odor, like sulphureted hydrogen, in some of these + stagnant waters. + </p> + <p> + We made so many attempts to get over the Sanshureh, both to the west and + east of the wagon, in the hope of reaching some of the Makololo on the + Chobe, that my Bushmen friends became quite tired of the work. By means of + presents I got them to remain some days; but at last they slipped away by + night, and I was fain to take one of the strongest of my still weak + companions and cross the river in a pontoon, the gift of Captains + Codrington and Webb. We each carried some provisions and a blanket, and + penetrated about twenty miles to the westward, in the hope of striking the + Chobe. It was much nearer to us in a northerly direction, but this we did + not then know. The plain, over which we splashed the whole of the first + day, was covered with water ankle deep, and thick grass which reached + above the knees. In the evening we came to an immense wall of reeds, six + or eight feet high, without any opening admitting of a passage. When we + tried to enter, the water always became so deep that we were fain to + desist. We concluded that we had come to the banks of the river we were in + search of, so we directed our course to some trees which appeared in the + south, in order to get a bed and a view of the adjacent locality. Having + shot a leche, and made a glorious fire, we got a good cup of tea and had a + comfortable night. While collecting wood that evening, I found a bird's + nest consisting of live leaves sewn together with threads of the spider's + web. Nothing could exceed the airiness of this pretty contrivance; the + threads had been pushed through small punctures and thickened to resemble + a knot. I unfortunately lost it. This was the second nest I had seen + resembling that of the tailor-bird of India. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, by climbing the highest trees, we could see a fine large + sheet of water, but surrounded on all sides by the same impenetrable belt + of reeds. This is the broad part of the River Chobe, and is called Zabesa. + Two tree-covered islands seemed to be much nearer to the water than the + shore on which we were, so we made an attempt to get to them first. It was + not the reeds alone we had to pass through; a peculiar serrated grass, + which at certain angles cut the hands like a razor, was mingled with the + reed, and the climbing convolvulus, with stalks which felt as strong as + whipcord, bound the mass together. We felt like pigmies in it, and often + the only way we could get on was by both of us leaning against a part and + bending it down till we could stand upon it. The perspiration streamed off + our bodies, and as the sun rose high, there being no ventilation among the + reeds, the heat was stifling, and the water, which was up to the knees, + felt agreeably refreshing. After some hours' toil we reached one of the + islands. Here we met an old friend, the bramble-bush. My strong moleskins + were quite worn through at the knees, and the leather trowsers of my + companion were torn and his legs bleeding. Tearing my handkerchief in two, + I tied the pieces round my knees, and then encountered another difficulty. + We were still forty or fifty yards from the clear water, but now we were + opposed by great masses of papyrus, which are like palms in miniature, + eight or ten feet high, and an inch and a half in diameter. These were + laced together by twining convolvulus, so strongly that the weight of both + of us could not make way into the clear water. At last we fortunately + found a passage prepared by a hippopotamus. Eager as soon as we reached + the island to look along the vista to clear water, I stepped in and found + it took me at once up to the neck. + </p> + <p> + Returning nearly worn out, we proceeded up the bank of the Chobe till we + came to the point of departure of the branch Sanshureh; we then went in + the opposite direction, or down the Chobe, though from the highest trees + we could see nothing but one vast expanse of reed, with here and there a + tree on the islands. This was a hard day's work; and when we came to a + deserted Bayeiye hut on an ant-hill, not a bit of wood or any thing else + could be got for a fire except the grass and sticks of the dwelling + itself. I dreaded the "Tampans", so common in all old huts; but outside of + it we had thousands of mosquitoes, and cold dew began to be deposited, so + we were fain to crawl beneath its shelter. + </p> + <p> + We were close to the reeds, and could listen to the strange sounds which + are often heard there. By day I had seen water-snakes putting up their + heads and swimming about. There were great numbers of otters ('Lutra + inunguis', F. Cuvier), which have made little spoors all over the plains + in search of the fishes, among the tall grass of these flooded prairies; + curious birds, too, jerked and wriggled among these reedy masses, and we + heard human-like voices and unearthly sounds, with splash, guggle, jupp, + as if rare fun were going on in their uncouth haunts. At one time + something came near us, making a splashing like that of a canoe or + hippopotamus; thinking it to be the Makololo, we got up, listened, and + shouted; then discharged a gun several times; but the noise continued + without intermission for an hour. After a damp, cold night we set to, + early in the morning, at our work of exploring again, but left the pontoon + in order to lighten our labor. The ant-hills are here very high, some + thirty feet, and of a base so broad that trees grow on them; while the + lands, annually flooded, bear nothing but grass. From one of these + ant-hills we discovered an inlet to the Chobe; and, having gone back for + the pontoon, we launched ourselves on a deep river, here from eighty to + one hundred yards wide. I gave my companion strict injunctions to stick by + the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should look at us; nor was this caution + unnecessary, for one came up at our side and made a desperate plunge off. + We had passed over him. The wave he made caused the pontoon to glide + quickly away from him. + </p> + <p> + We paddled on from midday till sunset. There was nothing but a wall of + reed on each bank, and we saw every prospect of spending a supperless + night in our float; but just as the short twilight of these parts was + commencing, we perceived on the north bank the village of Moremi, one of + the Makololo, whose acquaintance I had made on our former visit, and who + was now located on the island Mahonta (lat. 17d 58' S., long. 24d 6' E.). + The villagers looked as we may suppose people do who see a ghost, and in + their figurative way of speaking said, "He has dropped among us from the + clouds, yet came riding on the back of a hippopotamus! We Makololo thought + no one could cross the Chobe without our knowledge, but here he drops + among us like a bird." + </p> + <p> + Next day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands, and found that, + in our absence, the men had allowed the cattle to wander into a very small + patch of wood to the west containing the tsetse; this carelessness cost me + ten fine large oxen. After remaining a few days, some of the head men of + the Makololo came down from Linyanti, with a large party of Barotse, to + take us across the river. This they did in fine style, swimming and diving + among the oxen more like alligators than men, and taking the wagons to + pieces and carrying them across on a number of canoes lashed together. We + were now among friends; so going about thirty miles to the north, in order + to avoid the still flooded lands on the north of the Chobe, we turned + westward toward Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" S., long. 23d 50' 9" E.), where + we arrived on the 23d of May, 1853. This is the capital town of the + Makololo, and only a short distance from our wagon-stand of 1851 (lat. 18d + 20' S., long. 23d 50' E.). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 9. + </h2> + <p> + Reception at Linyanti—The court Herald—Sekeletu obtains the + Chieftainship from his Sister—Mpepe's Plot—Slave-trading + Mambari —Their sudden Flight—Sekeletu narrowly escapes + Assassination— Execution of Mpepe—The Courts of Law—Mode + of trying Offenses— Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to read the + Bible—The Disposition made of the Wives of a deceased Chief—Makololo + Women—They work but little—Employ Serfs—Their Drink, + Dress, and Ornaments—Public Religious Services in the Kotla—Unfavorable + Associations of the place—Native Doctors—Proposals to teach + the Makololo to read—Sekeletu's Present—Reason for accepting + it—Trading in Ivory—Accidental Fire—Presents for + Sekeletu—Two Breeds of native Cattle—Ornamenting the Cattle—The + Women and the Looking-glass—Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for + Mantles and for Shields—Throwing the Spear. + </p> + <p> + The whole population of Linyanti, numbering between six and seven thousand + souls, turned out en masse to see the wagons in motion. They had never + witnessed the phenomenon before, we having on the former occasion departed + by night. Sekeletu, now in power, received us in what is considered royal + style, setting before us a great number of pots of boyaloa, the beer of + the country. These were brought by women, and each bearer takes a good + draught of the beer when she sets it down, by way of "tasting", to show + that there is no poison. + </p> + <p> + The court herald, an old man who occupied the post also in Sebituane's + time, stood up, and after some antics, such as leaping, and shouting at + the top of his voice, roared out some adulatory sentences, as, "Don't I + see the white man? Don't I see the comrade of Sebituane? Don't I see the + father of Sekeletu?"—"We want sleep."—"Give your son sleep, my + lord," etc., etc. The perquisites of this man are the heads of all the + cattle slaughtered by the chief, and he even takes a share of the tribute + before it is distributed and taken out of the kotla. He is expected to + utter all the proclamations, call assemblies, keep the kotla clean, and + the fire burning every evening, and when a person is executed in public he + drags away the body. + </p> + <p> + I found Sekeletu a young man of eighteen years of age, of that dark yellow + or coffee-and-milk color, of which the Makololo are so proud, because it + distinguishes them considerably from the black tribes on the rivers. He is + about five feet seven in height, and neither so good looking nor of so + much ability as his father was, but is equally friendly to the English. + Sebituane installed his daughter Mamochisane into the chieftainship long + before his death, but, with all his acuteness, the idea of her having a + husband who should not be her lord did not seem to enter his mind. He + wished to make her his successor, probably in imitation of some of the + negro tribes with whom he had come into contact; but, being of the + Bechuana race, he could not look upon the husband except as the woman's + lord; so he told her all the men were hers—she might take any one, + but ought to keep none. In fact, he thought she might do with the men what + he could do with the women; but these men had other wives; and, according + to a saying in the country, "the tongues of women can not be governed," + they made her miserable by their remarks. One man whom she chose was even + called her wife, and her son the child of Mamochisane's wife; but the + arrangement was so distasteful to Mamochisane herself that, as soon as + Sebituane died, she said she never would consent to govern the Makololo so + long as she had a brother living. Sekeletu, being afraid of another member + of the family, Mpepe, who had pretensions to the chieftainship, urged his + sister strongly to remain as she had always been, and allow him to support + her authority by leading the Makololo when they went forth to war. Three + days were spent in public discussion on the point. Mpepe insinuated that + Sekeletu was not the lawful son of Sebituane, on account of his mother + having been the wife of another chief before her marriage with Sebituane; + Mamochisane, however, upheld Sekeletu's claims, and at last stood up in + the assembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears: "I have been + a chief only because my father wished it. I always would have preferred to + be married and have a family like other women. You, Sekeletu, must be + chief, and build up your father's house." This was a death-blow to the + hopes of Mpepe. + </p> + <p> + As it will enable the reader to understand the social and political + relations of these people, I will add a few more particulars respecting + Mpepe. Sebituane, having no son to take the leadership of the "Mopato" of + the age of his daughter, chose him, as the nearest male relative, to + occupy that post; and presuming from Mpepe's connection with his family + that he would attend to his interests and relieve him from care, he handed + his cattle over to his custody. Mpepe removed to the chief town, + "Naliele", and took such effectual charge of all the cattle that Sebituane + saw he could only set matters on their former footing by the severe + measure of Mpepe's execution. Being unwilling to do this, and fearing the + enchantments which, by means of a number of Barotse doctors, Mpepe now + used in a hut built for the purpose, and longing for peaceful retirement + after thirty years' fighting, he heard with pleasure of our arrival at the + lake, and came down as far as Sesheke to meet us. He had an idea, picked + up from some of the numerous strangers who visited him, that white men had + a "pot (a cannon) in their towns which would burn up any attacking party;" + and he thought if he could only get this he would be able to "sleep" the + remainder of his days in peace. This he hoped to obtain from the white + men. Hence the cry of the herald, "Give us sleep." It is remarkable how + anxious for peace those who have been fighting all their lives appear to + be. + </p> + <p> + When Sekeletu was installed in the chieftainship, he felt his position + rather insecure, for it was believed that the incantations of Mpepe had an + intimate connection with Sebituane's death. Indeed, the latter had said to + his son, "That hut of incantation will prove fatal to either you or me." + </p> + <p> + When the Mambari, in 1850, took home a favorable report of this new market + to the west, a number of half-caste Portuguese slave-traders were induced + to come in 1853; and one, who resembled closely a real Portuguese, came to + Linyanti while I was there. This man had no merchandise, and pretended to + have come in order to inquire "what sort of goods were necessary for the + market." He seemed much disconcerted by my presence there. Sekeletu + presented him with an elephant's tusk and an ox; and when he had departed + about fifty miles to the westward, he carried off an entire village of the + Bakalahari belonging to the Makololo. He had a number of armed slaves with + him; and as all the villagers—men, women, and children—were + removed, and the fact was unknown until a considerable time afterward, it + is not certain whether his object was obtained by violence or by fair + promises. In either case, slavery must have been the portion of these poor + people. He was carried in a hammock, slung between two poles, which + appearing to be a bag, the Makololo named him "Father of the Bag". + </p> + <p> + Mpepe favored these slave-traders, and they, as is usual with them, + founded all their hopes of influence on his successful rebellion. My + arrival on the scene was felt to be so much weight in the scale against + their interests. A large party of Mambari had come to Linyanti when I was + floundering on the prairies south of the Chobe. As the news of my being in + the neighborhood reached them their countenances fell; and when some + Makololo, who had assisted us to cross the river, returned with hats which + I had given them, the Mambari betook themselves to precipitate flight. It + is usual for visitors to ask formal permission before attempting to leave + a chief, but the sight of the hats made the Mambari pack up at once. The + Makololo inquired the cause of the hurry, and were told that, if I found + them there, I should take all their slaves and goods from them; and, + though assured by Sekeletu that I was not a robber, but a man of peace, + they fled by night, while I was still sixty miles off. They went to the + north, where, under the protection of Mpepe, they had erected a stockade + of considerable size. There, several half-caste slave-traders, under the + leadership of a native Portuguese, carried on their traffic, without + reference to the chief into whose country they had unceremoniously + introduced themselves; while Mpepe, feeding them with the cattle of + Sekeletu, formed a plan of raising himself, by means of their fire-arms, + to be the head of the Makololo. The usual course which the slave-traders + adopt is to take a part in the political affairs of each tribe, and, + siding with the strongest, get well paid by captures made from the weaker + party. Long secret conferences were held by the slave-traders and Mpepe, + and it was deemed advisable for him to strike the first blow; so he + provided himself with a small battle-axe, with the intention of cutting + Sekeletu down the first time they met. + </p> + <p> + My object being first of all to examine the country for a healthy + locality, before attempting to make a path to either the East or West + Coast, I proposed to Sekeletu the plan of ascending the great river which + we had discovered in 1851. He volunteered to accompany me, and, when we + got about sixty miles away, on the road to Sesheke, we encountered Mpepe. + The Makololo, though possessing abundance of cattle, had never attempted + to ride oxen until I advised it in 1851. The Bechuanas generally were in + the same condition, until Europeans came among them and imparted the idea + of riding. All their journeys previously were performed on foot. Sekeletu + and his companions were mounted on oxen, though, having neither saddle nor + bridle, they were perpetually falling off. Mpepe, armed with his little + axe, came along a path parallel to, but a quarter of a mile distant from, + that of our party, and, when he saw Sekeletu, he ran with all his might + toward us; but Sekeletu, being on his guard, galloped off to an adjacent + village. He then withdrew somewhere till all our party came up. Mpepe had + given his own party to understand that he would cut down Sekeletu, either + on their first meeting, or at the breaking up of their first conference. + The former intention having been thus frustrated, he then determined to + effect his purpose after their first interview. I happened to sit down + between the two in the hut where they met. Being tired with riding all day + in the sun, I soon asked Sekeletu where I should sleep, and he replied, + "Come, I will show you." As we rose together, I unconsciously covered + Sekeletu's body with mine, and saved him from the blow of the assassin. I + knew nothing of the plot, but remarked that all Mpepe's men kept hold of + their arms, even after we had sat down—a thing quite unusual in the + presence of a chief; and when Sekeletu showed me the hut in which I was to + spend the night, he said to me, "That man wishes to kill me." I afterward + learned that some of Mpepe's attendants had divulged the secret; and, + bearing in mind his father's instructions, Sekeletu put Mpepe to death + that night. It was managed so quietly, that, although I was sleeping + within a few yards of the scene, I knew nothing of it till the next day. + Nokuane went to the fire, at which Mpepe sat, with a handful of snuff, as + if he were about to sit down and regale himself therewith. Mpepe said to + him, "Nsepisa" (cause me to take a pinch); and, as he held out his hand, + Nokuane caught hold of it, while another man seized the other hand, and, + leading him out a mile, speared him. This is the common mode of executing + criminals. They are not allowed to speak; though on one occasion a man, + feeling his wrist held too tightly, said, "Hold me gently, can't you? you + will soon be led out in the same way yourselves." Mpepe's men fled to the + Barotse, and, it being unadvisable for us to go thither during the + commotion which followed on Mpepe's death, we returned to Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + The foregoing may be considered as a characteristic specimen of their mode + of dealing with grave political offenses. In common cases there is a + greater show of deliberation. The complainant asks the man against whom he + means to lodge his complaint to come with him to the chief. This is never + refused. When both are in the kotla, the complainant stands up and states + the whole case before the chief and the people usually assembled there. He + stands a few seconds after he has done this, to recollect if he has + forgotten any thing. The witnesses to whom he has referred then rise up + and tell all they themselves have seen or heard, but not any thing that + they have heard from others. The defendant, after allowing some minutes to + elapse so that he may not interrupt any of the opposite party, slowly + rises, folds his cloak around him, and, in the most quiet, deliberate way + he can assume—yawning, blowing his nose, etc.—begins to + explain the affair, denying the charge, or admitting it, as the case may + be. Sometimes, when galled by his remarks, the complainant utters a + sentence of dissent; the accused turns quietly to him, and says, "Be + silent: I sat still while you were speaking; can't you do the same? Do you + want to have it all to yourself?" And as the audience acquiesce in this + bantering, and enforce silence, he goes on till he has finished all he + wishes to say in his defense. If he has any witnesses to the truth of the + facts of his defense, they give their evidence. No oath is administered; + but occasionally, when a statement is questioned, a man will say, "By my + father," or "By the chief, it is so." Their truthfulness among each other + is quite remarkable; but their system of government is such that Europeans + are not in a position to realize it readily. A poor man will say, in his + defense against a rich one, "I am astonished to hear a man so great as he + make a false accusation;" as if the offense of falsehood were felt to be + one against the society which the individual referred to had the greatest + interest in upholding. + </p> + <p> + If the case is one of no importance, the chief decides it at once; if + frivolous, he may give the complainant a scolding, and put a stop to the + case in the middle of the complaint, or he may allow it to go on without + paying any attention to it whatever. Family quarrels are often treated in + this way, and then a man may be seen stating his case with great fluency, + and not a soul listening to him. But if it is a case between influential + men, or brought on by under-chiefs, then the greatest decorum prevails. If + the chief does not see his way clearly to a decision, he remains silent; + the elders then rise one by one and give their opinions, often in the way + of advice rather than as decisions; and when the chief finds the general + sentiment agreeing in one view, he delivers his judgment accordingly. He + alone speaks sitting; all others stand. + </p> + <p> + No one refuses to acquiesce in the decision of the chief, as he has the + power of life and death in his hands, and can enforce the law to that + extent if he chooses; but grumbling is allowed, and, when marked + favoritism is shown to any relative of the chief, the people generally are + not so astonished at the partiality as we would be in England. + </p> + <p> + This system was found as well developed among the Makololo as among the + Bakwains, or even better, and is no foreign importation. When at Cassange, + my men had a slight quarrel among themselves, and came to me, as to their + chief, for judgment. This had occurred several times before, so without a + thought I went out of the Portuguese merchant's house in which I was a + guest, sat down, and heard the complaint and defense in the usual way. + When I had given my decision in the common admonitory form, they went off + apparently satisfied. Several Portuguese, who had been viewing the + proceedings with great interest, complimented me on the success of my + teaching them how to act in litigation; but I could not take any credit to + myself for the system which I had found ready-made to my hands. + </p> + <p> + Soon after our arrival at Linyanti, Sekeletu took me aside, and pressed me + to mention those things I liked best and hoped to get from him. Any thing, + either in or out of his town, should be freely given if I would only + mention it. I explained to him that my object was to elevate him and his + people to be Christians; but he replied he did not wish to learn to read + the Book, for he was afraid "it might change his heart, and make him + content with only one wife, like Sechele." It was of little use to urge + that the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife equal to his + present complacency in polygamy. Such a preference after the change of + mind could not now be understood by him any more than the real, + unmistakable pleasure of religious services can by those who have not + experienced what is known by the term the "new heart". I assured him that + nothing was expected but by his own voluntary decision. "No, no; he wanted + always to have five wives at least." I liked the frankness of Sekeletu, + for nothing is so wearying to the spirit as talking to those who agree + with every thing advanced. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu, according to the system of the Bechuanas, became possessor of + his father's wives, and adopted two of them; the children by these women + are, however, in these cases, termed brothers. When an elder brother dies, + the same thing occurs in respect of his wives; the brother next in age + takes them, as among the Jews, and the children that may be born of those + women he calls brothers also. He thus raises up seed to his departed + relative. An uncle of Sekeletu, being a younger brother of Sebituane, got + that chieftain's head-wife or queen: there is always one who enjoys this + title. Her hut is called the great house, and her children inherit the + chieftainship. If she dies, a new wife is selected for the same position, + and enjoys the same privileges, though she may happen to be a much younger + woman than the rest. + </p> + <p> + The majority of the wives of Sebituane were given to influential + under-chiefs; and, in reference to their early casting off the widow's + weeds, a song was sung, the tenor of which was that the men alone felt the + loss of their father Sebituane, the women were so soon supplied with new + husbands that their hearts had not time to become sore with grief. + </p> + <p> + The women complain because the proportions between the sexes are so + changed now that they are not valued as they deserve. The majority of the + real Makololo have been cut off by fever. Those who remain are a mere + fragment of the people who came to the north with Sebituane. Migrating + from a very healthy climate in the south, they were more subject to the + febrile diseases of the valley in which we found them than the black + tribes they conquered. In comparison with the Barotse, Batoka, and + Banyeti, the Makololo have a sickly hue. They are of a light + brownish-yellow color, while the tribes referred to are very dark, with a + slight tinge of olive. The whole of the colored tribes consider that + beauty and fairness are associated, and women long for children of light + color so much, that they sometimes chew the bark of a certain tree in + hopes of producing that effect. To my eye the dark color is much more + agreeable than the tawny hue of the half-caste, which that of the Makololo + ladies closely resembles. The women generally escaped the fever, but they + are less fruitful than formerly, and, to their complaint of being + undervalued on account of the disproportion of the sexes, they now add + their regrets at the want of children, of whom they are all excessively + fond. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo women work but little. Indeed, the families of that nation + are spread over the country, one or two only in each village, as the lords + of the land. They all have lordship over great numbers of subjected + tribes, who pass by the general name Makalaka, and who are forced to + render certain services, and to aid in tilling the soil; but each has his + own land under cultivation, and otherwise lives nearly independent. They + are proud to be called Makololo, but the other term is often used in + reproach, as betokening inferiority. This species of servitude may be + termed serfdom, as it has to be rendered in consequence of subjection by + force of arms, but it is necessarily very mild. It is so easy for any one + who is unkindly treated to make his escape to other tribes, that the + Makololo are compelled to treat them, to a great extent, rather as + children than slaves. Some masters, who fail from defect of temper or + disposition to secure the affections of the conquered people, frequently + find themselves left without a single servant, in consequence of the + absence and impossibility of enforcing a fugitive-slave law, and the + readiness with which those who are themselves subjected assist the + fugitives across the rivers in canoes. The Makololo ladies are liberal in + their presents of milk and other food, and seldom require to labor, except + in the way of beautifying their own huts and court-yards. They drink large + quantities of boyaloa or o-alo, the buza of the Arabs, which, being made + of the grain called holcus sorghum or "durasaifi", in a minute state of + subdivision, is very nutritious, and gives that plumpness of form which is + considered beautiful. They dislike being seen at their potations by + persons of the opposite sex. They cut their woolly hair quite short, and + delight in having the whole person shining with butter. Their dress is a + kilt reaching to the knees; its material is ox-hide, made as soft as + cloth. It is not ungraceful. A soft skin mantle is thrown across the + shoulders when the lady is unemployed, but when engaged in any sort of + labor she throws this aside, and works in the kilt alone. The ornaments + most coveted are large brass anklets as thick as the little finger, and + armlets of both brass and ivory, the latter often an inch broad. The rings + are so heavy that the ankles are often blistered by the weight pressing + down; but it is the fashion, and is borne as magnanimously as tight lacing + and tight shoes among ourselves. Strings of beads are hung around the + neck, and the fashionable colors being light green and pink, a trader + could get almost any thing he chose for beads of these colors. + </p> + <p> + At our public religious services in the kotla, the Makololo women always + behaved with decorum from the first, except at the conclusion of the + prayer. When all knelt down, many of those who had children, in following + the example of the rest, bent over their little ones; the children, in + terror of being crushed to death, set up a simultaneous yell, which so + tickled the whole assembly there was often a subdued titter, to be turned + into a hearty laugh as soon as they heard Amen. This was not so difficult + to overcome in them as similar peccadilloes were in the case of the women + farther south. Long after we had settled at Mabotsa, when preaching on the + most solemn subjects, a woman might be observed to look round, and, seeing + a neighbor seated on her dress, give her a hunch with the elbow to make + her move off; the other would return it with interest, and perhaps the + remark, "Take the nasty thing away, will you?" Then three or four would + begin to hustle the first offenders, and the men to swear at them all, by + way of enforcing silence. + </p> + <p> + Great numbers of little trifling things like these occur, and would not be + worth the mention but that one can not form a correct idea of missionary + work except by examination of the minutiae. At the risk of appearing + frivolous to some, I shall continue to descend to mere trifles. + </p> + <p> + The numbers who attended at the summons of the herald, who acted as + beadle, were often from five to seven hundred. The service consisted of + reading a small portion of the Bible and giving an explanatory address, + usually short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention. So long as + we continue to hold services in the kotla, the associations of the place + are unfavorable to solemnity; hence it is always desirable to have a place + of worship as soon as possible; and it is of importance, too, to treat + such place with reverence, as an aid to secure that serious attention + which religious subjects demand. This will appear more evident when it is + recollected that, in the very spot where we had been engaged in acts of + devotion, half an hour after a dance would be got up; and these habits can + not be at first opposed without the appearance of assuming too much + authority over them. It is always unwise to hurt their feelings of + independence. Much greater influence will be gained by studying how you + may induce them to act aright, with the impression that they are doing it + of their own free will. Our services having necessarily been all in the + open air, where it is most difficult to address large bodies of people, + prevented my recovering so entirely from the effects of clergyman's sore + throat as I expected, when my uvula was excised at the Cape. + </p> + <p> + To give an idea of the routine followed for months together, on other days + as well as on Sundays, I may advert to my habit of treating the sick for + complaints which seemed to surmount the skill of their own doctors. I + refrained from going to any one unless his own doctor wished it, or had + given up the case. This led to my having a selection of the severer cases + only, and prevented the doctors being offended at my taking their practice + out of their hands. When attacked by fever myself, and wishing to + ascertain what their practices were, I could safely intrust myself in + their hands on account of their well-known friendly feelings. + </p> + <p> + The plan of showing kindness to the natives in their bodily ailments + secures their friendship; this is not the case to the same degree in old + missions, where the people have learned to look upon relief as a right—a + state of things which sometimes happens among ourselves at home. Medical + aid is therefore most valuable in young missions, though at all stages it + is an extremely valuable adjunct to other operations. + </p> + <p> + I proposed to teach the Makololo to read, but, for the reasons mentioned, + Sekeletu at first declined; after some weeks, however, Motibe, his + father-in-law, and some others, determined to brave the mysterious book. + To all who have not acquired it, the knowledge of letters is quite + unfathomable; there is naught like it within the compass of their + observation; and we have no comparison with any thing except pictures, to + aid them in comprehending the idea of signs of words. It seems to them + supernatural that we see in a book things taking place, or having occurred + at a distance. No amount of explanation conveys the idea unless they learn + to read. Machinery is equally inexplicable, and money nearly as much so + until they see it in actual use. They are familiar with barter alone; and + in the centre of the country, where gold is totally unknown, if a button + and sovereign were left to their choice, they would prefer the former on + account of its having an eye. + </p> + <p> + In beginning to learn, Motibe seemed to himself in the position of the + doctor, who was obliged to drink his potion before the patient, to show + that it contained nothing detrimental; after he had mastered the alphabet, + and reported the thing so far safe, Sekeletu and his young companions came + forward to try for themselves. He must have resolved to watch the effects + of the book against his views on polygamy, and abstain whenever he + perceived any tendency, in reading it, toward enforcing him to put his + wives away. A number of men learned the alphabet in a short time and were + set to teach others, but before much progress could be made I was on my + way to Loanda. + </p> + <p> + As I had declined to name any thing as a present from Sekeletu, except a + canoe to take me up the river, he brought ten fine elephants' tusks and + laid them down beside my wagon. He would take no denial, though I told him + I should prefer to see him trading with Fleming, a man of color from the + West Indies, who had come for the purpose. I had, during the eleven years + of my previous course, invariably abstained from taking presents of ivory, + from an idea that a religious instructor degraded himself by accepting + gifts from those whose spiritual welfare he professed to seek. My + precedence of all traders in the line of discovery put me often in the way + of very handsome offers, but I always advised the donors to sell their + ivory to traders, who would be sure to follow, and when at some future + time they had become rich by barter, they might remember me or my + children. When Lake Ngami was discovered I might have refused permission + to a trader who accompanied us; but when he applied for leave to form part + of our company, knowing that Mr. Oswell would no more trade than myself, + and that the people of the lake would be disappointed if they could not + dispose of their ivory, I willingly granted a sanction, without which his + people would not at that time have ventured so far. This was surely + preferring the interest of another to my own. The return I got for this + was a notice in one of the Cape papers that this "man was the true + discoverer of the lake!" + </p> + <p> + The conclusion I had come to was, that it is quite lawful, though perhaps + not expedient, for missionaries to trade; but barter is the only means by + which a missionary in the interior can pay his way, as money has no value. + In all the journeys I had previously undertaken for wider diffusion of the + Gospel, the extra expenses were defrayed from my salary of 100 Pounds per + annum. This sum is sufficient to enable a missionary to live in the + interior of South Africa, supposing he has a garden capable of yielding + corn and vegetables; but should he not, and still consider that six or + eight months can not lawfully be spent simply in getting goods at a lower + price than they can be had from itinerant traders, the sum mentioned is + barely sufficient for the poorest fare and plainest apparel. As we never + felt ourselves justified in making journeys to the colony for the sake of + securing bargains, the most frugal living was necessary to enable us to be + a little charitable to others; but when to this were added extra traveling + expenses, the wants of an increasing family, and liberal gifts to chiefs, + it was difficult to make both ends meet. The pleasure of missionary labor + would be enhanced if one could devote his life to the heathen, without + drawing a salary from a society at all. The luxury of doing good from + one's own private resources, without appearing to either natives or + Europeans to be making a gain of it, is far preferable, and an object + worthy the ambition of the rich. But few men of fortune, however, now + devote themselves to Christian missions, as of old. Presents were always + given to the chiefs whom we visited, and nothing accepted in return; but + when Sebituane (in 1851) offered some ivory, I took it, and was able by + its sale to present his son with a number of really useful articles of a + higher value than I had ever been able to give before to any chief. In + doing this, of course, I appeared to trade, but, feeling I had a right to + do so, I felt perfectly easy in my mind; and, as I still held the view of + the inexpediency of combining the two professions, I was glad of the + proposal of one of the most honorable merchants of Cape Town, Mr. H. E. + Rutherford, that he should risk a sum of money in Fleming's hands for the + purpose of attempting to develop a trade with the Makololo. It was to this + man I suggested Sekeletu should sell the tusks which he had presented for + my acceptance, but the chief refused to take them back from me. The goods + which Fleming had brought were ill adapted for the use of the natives, but + he got a pretty good load of ivory in exchange; and though it was his + first attempt at trading, and the distance traveled over made the expenses + enormous, he was not a loser by the trip. Other traders followed, who + demanded 90 lbs. of ivory for a musket. The Makololo, knowing nothing of + steelyards, but supposing that they were meant to cheat them, declined to + trade except by exchanging one bull and one cow elephant's tusk for each + gun. This would average 70 lbs. of ivory, which sells at the Cape for 5s. + per pound, for a second-hand musket worth 10s. I, being sixty miles + distant, did not witness this attempt at barter, but, anxious to enable my + countrymen to drive a brisk trade, told the Makololo to sell my ten tusks + on their own account for whatever they would bring. Seventy tusks were for + sale, but, the parties not understanding each other's talk, no trade was + established; and when I passed the spot some time afterward, I found that + the whole of that ivory had been destroyed by an accidental fire, which + broke out in the village when all the people were absent. Success in trade + is as much dependent on knowledge of the language as success in traveling. + </p> + <p> + I had brought with me as presents an improved breed of goats, fowls, and a + pair of cats. A superior bull was bought, also as a gift to Sekeletu, but + I was compelled to leave it on account of its having become foot-sore. As + the Makololo are very fond of improving the breed of their domestic + animals, they were much pleased with my selection. I endeavored to bring + the bull, in performance of a promise made to Sebituane before he died. + Admiring a calf which we had with us, he proposed to give me a cow for it, + which in the native estimation was offering three times its value. I + presented it to him at once, and promised to bring him another and a + better one. Sekeletu was much gratified by my attempt to keep my word + given to his father. + </p> + <p> + They have two breeds of cattle among them. One, called the Batoka, because + captured from that tribe, is of diminutive size, but very beautiful, and + closely resembles the short-horns of our own country. The little pair + presented by the King of Portugal to H.R.H. the prince consort, is of this + breed. They are very tame, and remarkably playful; they may be seen lying + on their sides by the fires in the evening; and, when the herd goes out, + the herdsman often precedes them, and has only to commence capering to set + them all a gamboling. The meat is superior to that of the large animal. + The other, or Barotse ox, is much larger, and comes from the fertile + Barotse Valley. They stand high on their legs, often nearly six feet at + the withers; and they have large horns. Those of one of a similar breed + that we brought from the lake measured from tip to tip eight and a half + feet. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo are in the habit of shaving off a little from one side of the + horns of these animals when still growing, in order to make them curve in + that direction and assume fantastic shapes. The stranger the curvature, + the more handsome the ox is considered to be, and the longer this ornament + of the cattle-pen is spared to beautify the herd. This is a very ancient + custom in Africa, for the tributary tribes of Ethiopia are seen, on some + of the most ancient Egyptian monuments, bringing contorted-horned cattle + into Egypt. + </p> + <p> + All are remarkably fond of their cattle, and spend much time in + ornamenting and adorning them. Some are branded all over with a hot knife, + so as to cause a permanent discoloration of the hair, in lines like the + bands on the hide of a zebra. Pieces of skin two or three inches long and + broad are detached, and allowed to heal in a dependent position around the + head—a strange style of ornament; indeed, it is difficult to + conceive in what their notion of beauty consists. The women have somewhat + the same ideas with ourselves of what constitutes comeliness. They came + frequently and asked for the looking-glass; and the remarks they made—while + I was engaged in reading, and apparently not attending to them—on + first seeing themselves therein, were amusingly ridiculous. "Is that me?" + "What a big mouth I have!" "My ears are as big as pumpkin-leaves." "I have + no chin at all." Or, "I would have been pretty, but am spoiled by these + high cheek-bones." "See how my head shoots up in the middle!" laughing + vociferously all the time at their own jokes. They readily perceive any + defect in each other, and give nicknames accordingly. One man came alone + to have a quiet gaze at his own features once, when he thought I was + asleep; after twisting his mouth about in various directions, he remarked + to himself, "People say I am ugly, and how very ugly I am indeed!" + </p> + <p> + The Makololo use all the skins of their oxen for making either mantles or + shields. For the former, the hide is stretched out by means of pegs, and + dried. Ten or a dozen men then collect round it with small adzes, which, + when sharpened with an iron bodkin, are capable of shaving off the + substance of the skin on the fleshy side until it is quite thin; when + sufficiently thin, a quantity of brain is smeared over it, and some thick + milk. Then an instrument made of a number of iron spikes tied round a + piece of wood, so that the points only project beyond it, is applied to it + in a carding fashion, until the fibres of the bulk of it are quite loose. + Milk or butter is applied to it again, and it forms a garment nearly as + soft as cloth. + </p> + <p> + The shields are made of hides partially dried in the sun, and then beaten + with hammers until they are stiff and dry. Two broad belts of a + differently-colored skin are sewed into them longitudinally, and sticks + inserted to make them rigid and not liable to bend easily. The shield is a + great protection in their way of fighting with spears, but they also trust + largely to their agility in springing aside from the coming javelin. The + shield assists when so many spears are thrown that it is impossible not to + receive some of them. Their spears are light javelins; and, judging from + what I have seen them do in elephant-hunting, I believe, when they have + room to make a run and discharge them with the aid of the jerk of + stopping, they can throw them between forty and fifty yards. They give + them an upward direction in the discharge, so that they come down on the + object with accelerated force. I saw a man who in battle had received one + in the shin; the excitement of the moment prevented his feeling any pain; + but, when the battle was over, the blade was found to have split the bone, + and become so impacted in the cleft that no force could extract it. It was + necessary to take an axe and press the split bone asunder before the + weapon could be taken out. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 10. + </h2> + <p> + The Fever—Its Symptoms—Remedies of the native Doctors—Hospitality + of Sekeletu and his People—One of their Reasons for Polygamy—They + cultivate largely—The Makalaka or subject Tribes—Sebituane's + Policy respecting them—Their Affection for him—Products of the + Soil—Instrument of Culture—The Tribute—Distributed by + the Chief—A warlike Demonstration—Lechulatebe's Provocations—The + Makololo determine to punish him—The Bechuanas—Meaning of the + Term—Three Divisions of the great Family of South Africans. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th of May I was seized with fever for the first time. We reached + the town of Linyanti on the 23d; and as my habits were suddenly changed + from great exertion to comparative inactivity, at the commencement of the + cold season I suffered from a severe attack of stoppage of the secretions, + closely resembling a common cold. Warm baths and drinks relieved me, and I + had no idea but that I was now recovering from the effects of a chill, got + by leaving the warm wagon in the evening in order to conduct family + worship at my people's fire. But on the 2d of June a relapse showed to the + Makololo, who knew the complaint, that my indisposition was no other than + the fever, with which I have since made a more intimate acquaintance. Cold + east winds prevail at this time; and as they come over the extensive flats + inundated by the Chobe, as well as many other districts where pools of + rain-water are now drying up, they may be supposed to be loaded with + malaria and watery vapor, and many cases of fever follow. The usual + symptoms of stopped secretion are manifested—shivering and a feeling + of coldness, though the skin is quite hot to the touch of another. The + heat in the axilla, over the heart and region of the stomach, was in my + case 100 Deg.; but along the spine and at the nape of the neck 103 Deg. + The internal processes were all, with the exception of the kidneys and + liver, stopped; the latter, in its efforts to free the blood of noxious + particles, often secretes enormous quantities of bile. There were pains + along the spine, and frontal headache. Anxious to ascertain whether the + natives possessed the knowledge of any remedy of which we were ignorant, I + requested the assistance of one of Sekeletu's doctors. He put some roots + into a pot with water, and, when it was boiling, placed it on a spot + beneath a blanket thrown around both me and it. This produced no immediate + effect; he then got a small bundle of different kinds of medicinal woods, + and, burning them in a potsherd nearly to ashes, used the smoke and hot + vapor arising from them as an auxiliary to the other in causing + diaphoresis. I fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than our + own medicines afford; but after being stewed in their vapor-baths, smoked + like a red herring over green twigs, and charmed 'secundem artem', I + concluded that I could cure the fever more quickly than they can. If we + employ a wet sheet and a mild aperient in combination with quinine, in + addition to the native remedies, they are an important aid in curing the + fever, as they seem to have the same stimulating effects on the alimentary + canal as these means have on the external surface. Purgatives, general + bleedings, or indeed any violent remedies, are injurious; and the + appearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded as an + evidence that no internal organ is in danger. There is a good deal in not + "giving in" to this disease. He who is low-spirited, and apt to despond at + every attack, will die sooner than the man who is not of such a + melancholic nature. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo had made a garden and planted maize for me, that, as they + remarked when I was parting with them to proceed to the Cape, I might have + food to eat when I returned, as well as other people. The maize was now + pounded by the women into fine meal. This they do in large wooden mortars, + the counterpart of which may be seen depicted on the Egyptian monuments.* + Sekeletu added to this good supply of meal ten or twelve jars of honey, + each of which contained about two gallons. Liberal supplies of ground-nuts + ('Arachis hypogoea') were also furnished every time the tributary tribes + brought their dues to Linyanti, and an ox was given for slaughter every + week or two. Sekeletu also appropriated two cows to be milked for us every + morning and evening. This was in accordance with the acknowledged rule + throughout this country, that the chief should feed all strangers who come + on any special business to him and take up their abode in his kotla. A + present is usually given in return for the hospitality, but, except in + cases where their aboriginal customs have been modified, nothing would be + asked. Europeans spoil the feeling that hospitality is the sacred duty of + the chiefs by what in other circumstances is laudable conduct. No sooner + do they arrive than they offer to purchase food, and, instead of waiting + till a meal is prepared for them in the evening, cook for themselves, and + then often decline even to partake of that which has been made ready for + their use. A present is also given, and before long the natives come to + expect a gift without having offered any equivalent. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately, the illustration shown with this paragraph + cannot be shown in this ASCII file. It has the following + caption: 'Egyptian Pestle and Mortar, Sieves, Corn Vessels, + and Kilt, identical with those in use by the Makololo and + Makalaka.—From Sir G. Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians".'—A. + L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + Strangers frequently have acquaintances among the under-chiefs, to whose + establishments they turn aside, and are treated on the same principle that + others are when they are the guests of the chief. So generally is the duty + admitted, that one of the most cogent arguments for polygamy is that a + respectable man with only one wife could not entertain strangers as he + ought. This reason has especial weight where the women are the chief + cultivators of the soil, and have the control over the corn, as at + Kolobeng. The poor, however, who have no friends, often suffer much + hunger, and the very kind attention Sebituane lavished on all such was one + of the reasons of his great popularity in the country. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo cultivate a large extent of land around their villages. Those + of them who are real Basutos still retain the habits of that tribe, and + may be seen going out with their wives with their hoes in hand—a + state of things never witnessed at Kolobeng, or among any other Bechuana + or Caffre tribe. The great chief Moshesh affords an example to his people + annually by not only taking the hoe in hand, but working hard with it on + certain public occasions. His Basutos are of the same family with the + Makololo to whom I refer. The younger Makololo, who have been accustomed + from their infancy to lord it over the conquered Makalaka, have + unfortunately no desire to imitate the agricultural tastes of their + fathers, and expect their subjects to perform all the manual labor. They + are the aristocracy of the country, and once possessed almost unlimited + power over their vassals. Their privileges were, however, much abridged by + Sebituane himself. + </p> + <p> + I have already mentioned that the tribes which Sebituane subjected in this + great country pass by the general name of Makalaka. The Makololo were + composed of a great number of other tribes, as well as of these central + negroes. The nucleus of the whole were Basuto, who came with Sebituane + from a comparatively cold and hilly region in the south. When he conquered + various tribes of the Bechuanas, as Bakwains, Bangwaketze, Bamangwato, + Batauana, etc., he incorporated the young of these tribes into his own. + Great mortality by fever having taken place in the original stock, he + wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a large scale with the + Makalaka. So we found him with even the sons of the chiefs of the Barotse + closely attached to his person; and they say to this day, if any thing + else but natural death had assailed their father, every one of them would + have laid down his life in his defense. One reason for their strong + affection was their emancipation by the decree of Sebituane, "all are + children of the chief." + </p> + <p> + The Makalaka cultivate the 'Holcus sorghum', or dura, as the principal + grain, with maize, two kinds of beans, ground-nuts ('Arachis hypogoea'), + pumpkins, watermelons, and cucumbers. They depend for success entirely + upon rain. Those who live in the Barotse valley cultivate in addition the + sugar-cane, sweet potato, and manioc ('Jatropha manihot'). The climate + there, however, is warmer than at Linyanti, and the Makalaka increase the + fertility of their gardens by rude attempts at artificial irrigation. + </p> + <p> + The instrument of culture over all this region is a hoe, the iron of which + the Batoka and Banyeti obtain from the ore by smelting. The amount of iron + which they produce annually may be understood when it is known that most + of the hoes in use at Linyanti are the tribute imposed on the smiths of + those subject tribes. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu receives tribute from a great number of tribes in corn or dura, + ground-nuts, hoes, spears, honey, canoes, paddles, wooden vessels, + tobacco, mutokuane ('Cannabis sativa'), various wild fruits (dried), + prepared skins, and ivory. When these articles are brought into the kotla, + Sekeletu has the honor of dividing them among the loungers who usually + congregate there. A small portion only is reserved for himself. The ivory + belongs nominally to him too, but this is simply a way of making a fair + distribution of the profits. The chief sells it only with the approbation + of his counselors, and the proceeds are distributed in open day among the + people as before. He has the choice of every thing; but if he is not more + liberal to others than to himself, he loses in popularity. I have known + instances in this and other tribes in which individuals aggrieved, because + they had been overlooked, fled to other chiefs. One discontented person, + having fled to Lechulatebe, was encouraged to go to a village of the + Bapalleng, on the River Cho or Tso, and abstracted the tribute of ivory + thence which ought to have come to Sekeletu. This theft enraged the whole + of the Makololo, because they all felt it to be a personal loss. Some of + Lechulatebe's people having come on a visit to Linyanti, a demonstration + was made, in which about five hundred Makololo, armed, went through a + mimic fight; the principal warriors pointed their spears toward the lake + where Lechulatebe lives, and every thrust in that direction was answered + by all with the shout, "Ho-o!" while every stab on the ground drew out a + simultaneous "Huzz!" On these occasions all capable of bearing arms, even + the old, must turn out at the call. In the time of Sebituane, any one + remaining in his house was searched for and killed without mercy. + </p> + <p> + This offense of Lechulatebe was aggravated by repetition, and by a song + sung in his town accompanying the dances, which manifested joy at the + death of Sebituane. He had enjoined his people to live in peace with those + at the lake, and Sekeletu felt disposed to follow his advice; but + Lechulatebe had now got possession of fire-arms, and considered himself + more than a match for the Makololo. His father had been dispossessed of + many cattle by Sebituane, and, as forgiveness is not considered among the + virtues by the heathen, Lechulatebe thought he had a right to recover what + he could. As I had a good deal of influence with the Makololo, I persuaded + them that, before they could have peace, they must resolve to give the + same blessing to others, and they never could do that without forgiving + and forgetting ancient feuds. It is hard to make them feel that shedding + of human blood is a great crime; they must be conscious that it is wrong, + but, having been accustomed to bloodshed from infancy, they are remarkably + callous to the enormity of the crime of destroying human life. + </p> + <p> + I sent a message at the same time to Lechulatebe advising him to give up + the course he had adopted, and especially the song; because, though + Sebituane was dead, the arms with which he had fought were still alive and + strong. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu, in order to follow up his father's instructions and promote + peace, sent ten cows to Lechulatebe to be exchanged for sheep; these + animals thrive well in a bushy country like that around the lake, but will + scarcely live in the flat prairies between the net-work of waters north of + the Chobe. The men who took the cows carried a number of hoes to purchase + goats besides. Lechulatebe took the cows and sent back an equal number of + sheep. Now, according to the relative value of sheep and cows in these + parts, he ought to have sent sixty or seventy. + </p> + <p> + One of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in a village without + formal leave from Lechulatebe; this chief punished him by making him sit + some hours on the broiling hot sand (at least 130 Deg.). This farther + offense put a stop to amicable relations between the two tribes + altogether. It was a case in which a very small tribe, commanded by a weak + and foolish chief, had got possession of fire-arms, and felt conscious of + ability to cope with a numerous and warlike race. Such cases are the only + ones in which the possession of fire-arms does evil. The universal effect + of the diffusion of the more potent instruments of warfare in Africa is + the same as among ourselves. Fire-arms render wars less frequent and less + bloody. It is indeed exceedingly rare to hear of two tribes having guns + going to war with each other; and, as nearly all the feuds, in the south + at least, have been about cattle, the risk which must be incurred from + long shots generally proves a preventive to the foray. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo were prevailed upon to keep the peace during my residence + with them, but it was easy to perceive that public opinion was against + sparing a tribe of Bechuanas for whom the Makololo entertained the most + sovereign contempt. The young men would remark, "Lechulatebe is herding + our cows for us; let us only go, we shall 'lift' the price of them in + sheep," etc. + </p> + <p> + As the Makololo are the most northerly of the Bechuanas, we may glance + back at this family of Africans before entering on the branch of the negro + family which the Makololo distinguish by the term Makalaka. The name + Bechuana seems derived from the word Chuana—alike, or equal—with + the personal pronoun Ba (they) prefixed, and therefore means fellows or + equals. Some have supposed the name to have arisen from a mistake of some + traveler, who, on asking individuals of this nation concerning the tribes + living beyond them, received the answer, Bachuana, "they (are) alike"; + meaning, "They are the same as we are"; and that this nameless traveler, + who never wrote a word about them, managed to ingraft his mistake as a + generic term on a nation extending from the Orange River to 18 Deg. south + latitude.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The Makololo have conquered the country as far as 14 Deg. + south, but it is still peopled chiefly by the black tribes + named Makalaka. +</pre> + <p> + As the name was found in use among those who had no intercourse with + Europeans, before we can receive the above explanation we must believe + that the unknown traveler knew the language sufficiently well to ask a + question, but not to understand the answer. We may add, that the way in + which they still continue to use the word seems to require no fanciful + interpretation. When addressed with any degree of scorn, they reply, "We + are Bachuana, or equals—we are not inferior to any of our nation," + in exactly the same sense as Irishmen or Scotchmen, in the same + circumstances, would reply, "We are Britons," or "We are Englishmen." Most + other tribes are known by the terms applied to them by strangers only, as + the Caffres, Hottentots, and Bushmen. The Bechuanas alone use the term to + themselves as a generic one for the whole nation. They have managed, also, + to give a comprehensive name to the whites, viz., Makoa, though they can + not explain the derivation of it any more than of their own. It seems to + mean "handsome", from the manner in which they use it to indicate beauty; + but there is a word so very like it meaning "infirm", or "weak", that + Burchell's conjecture is probably the right one. "The different Hottentot + tribes were known by names terminating in 'kua', which means 'man', and + the Bechuanas simply added the prefix Ma, denoting a nation." They + themselves were first known as Briquas, or "goat-men". The language of the + Bechuanas is termed Sichuana; that of the whites (or Makoa) is called + Sekoa. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo, or Basuto, have carried their powers of generalization still + farther, and arranged the other parts of the same great family of South + Africans into three divisions: 1st. The Matebele, or Makonkobi—the + Caffre family living on the eastern side of the country; 2d. The Bakoni, + or Basuto; and, 3d. The Bakalahari, or Bechuanas, living in the central + parts, which includes all those tribes living in or adjacent to the great + Kalahari Desert. + </p> + <p> + 1st. The Caffres are divided by themselves into various subdivisions, as + Amakosa, Amapanda, and other well-known titles. They consider the name + Caffre as an insulting epithet. + </p> + <p> + The Zulus of Natal belong to the same family, and they are as famed for + their honesty as their brethren who live adjacent to our colonial frontier + are renowned for cattle-lifting. The Recorder of Natal declared of them + that history does not present another instance in which so much security + for life and property has been enjoyed, as has been experienced, during + the whole period of English occupation, by ten thousand colonists, in the + midst of one hundred thousand Zulus. + </p> + <p> + The Matebele of Mosilikatse, living a short distance south of the Zambesi, + and other tribes living a little south of Tete and Senna, are members of + this same family. They are not known beyond the Zambesi River. This was + the limit of the Bechuana progress north too, until Sebituane pushed his + conquests farther. + </p> + <p> + 2d. The Bakoni and Basuto division contains, in the south, all those + tribes which acknowledge Moshesh as their paramount chief. Among them we + find the Batau, the Baputi, Makolokue, etc., and some mountaineers on the + range Maluti, who are believed, by those who have carefully sifted the + evidence, to have been at one time guilty of cannibalism. This has been + doubted, but their songs admit the fact to this day, and they ascribe + their having left off the odious practice of entrapping human prey to + Moshesh having given them cattle. They are called Marimo and Mayabathu, + men-eaters, by the rest of the Basuto, who have various subdivisions, as + Makatla, Bamakakana, Matlapatlapa, etc. + </p> + <p> + The Bakoni farther north than the Basuto are the Batlou, Baperi, Bapo, and + another tribe of Bakuena, Bamosetla, Bamapela or Balaka, Babiriri, Bapiri, + Bahukeng, Batlokua, Baakhahela, etc., etc.; the whole of which tribes are + favored with abundance of rain, and, being much attached to agriculture, + raise very large quantities of grain. It is on their industry that the + more distant Boers revel in slothful abundance, and follow their + slave-hunting and cattle-stealing propensities quite beyond the range of + English influence and law. The Basuto under Moshesh are equally fond of + cultivating the soil. The chief labor of hoeing, driving away birds, + reaping, and winnowing, falls to the willing arms of the hard-working + women; but as the men, as well as their wives, as already stated, always + work, many have followed the advice of the missionaries, and now use plows + and oxen instead of the hoe. + </p> + <p> + 3d. The Bakalahari, or western branch of the Bechuana family, consists of + Barolong, Bahurutse, Bakuena, Bangwaketse, Bakaa, Bamangwato, Bakurutse, + Batauana, Bamatlaro, and Batlapi. Among the last the success of + missionaries has been greatest. They were an insignificant and filthy + people when first discovered; but, being nearest to the colony, they have + had opportunities of trading; and the long-continued peace they have + enjoyed, through the influence of religious teaching, has enabled them to + amass great numbers of cattle. The young, however, who do not realize + their former degradation, often consider their present superiority over + the less-favored tribes in the interior to be entirely owing to their own + greater wisdom and more intellectual development. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 11. + </h2> + <p> + Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke—Level Country—Ant-hills—Wild + Date-trees—Appearance of our Attendants on the March—The + Chief's Guard—They attempt to ride on Ox-back—Vast Herds of + the new Antelopes, Leches, and Nakongs—The native way of hunting + them—Reception at the Villages—Presents of Beer and Milk—Eating + with the Hand—The Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter—Social + Mode of Eating—The Sugar-cane—Sekeletu's novel Test of + Character— Cleanliness of Makololo Huts—Their Construction and + Appearance—The Beds—Cross the Leeambye—Aspect of this + part of the Country—The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the South—Hunting + on foot—An Eland. + </p> + <p> + Having waited a month at Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" S., long. 23d 50' 9" + E.), we again departed, for the purpose of ascending the river from + Sesheke (lat. 17d 31' 38" S., long. 25d 13' E.). To the Barotse country, + the capital of which is Nariele or Naliele (lat. 15d 24' 17" S., long. 23d + 5' 54" E.), I went in company with Sekeletu and about one hundred and + sixty attendants. We had most of the young men with us, and many of the + under-chiefs besides. The country between Linyanti and Sesheke is + perfectly flat, except patches elevated only a few feet above the + surrounding level. There are also many mounds where the gigantic ant-hills + of the country have been situated or still appear: these mounds are + evidently the work of the termites. No one who has not seen their gigantic + structures can fancy the industry of these little laborers; they seem to + impart fertility to the soil which has once passed through their mouths, + for the Makololo find the sides of ant-hills the choice spots for rearing + early maize, tobacco, or any thing on which they wish to bestow especial + care. In the parts through which we passed the mounds are generally + covered with masses of wild date-trees; the fruit is small, and no tree is + allowed to stand long, for, having abundance of food, the Makololo have no + inclination to preserve wild fruit-trees; accordingly, when a date shoots + up to seed, as soon as the fruit is ripe they cut down the tree rather + than be at the trouble of climbing it. The other parts of the more + elevated land have the camel-thorn ('Acacia giraffae'), white-thorned + mimosa ('Acacia horrida'), and baobabs. In sandy spots there are palmyras + somewhat similar to the Indian, but with a smaller seed. The soil on all + the flat parts is a rich, dark, tenacious loam, known as the + "cotton-ground" in India; it is covered with a dense matting of coarse + grass, common on all damp spots in this country. We had the Chobe on our + right, with its scores of miles of reed occupying the horizon there. It + was pleasant to look back on the long-extended line of our attendants, as + it twisted and bent according to the curves of the footpath, or in and out + behind the mounds, the ostrich feathers of the men waving in the wind. + Some had the white ends of ox-tails on their heads, Hussar fashion, and + others great bunches of black ostrich feathers, or caps made of lions' + manes. Some wore red tunics, or various-colored prints which the chief had + bought from Fleming; the common men carried burdens; the gentlemen walked + with a small club of rhinoceros-horn in their hands, and had servants to + carry their shields; while the "Machaka", battle-axe men, carried their + own, and were liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an + errand, and expected to run all the way. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu is always accompanied by his own Mopato, a number of young men of + his own age. When he sits down they crowd around him; those who are + nearest eat out of the same dish, for the Makololo chiefs pride themselves + on eating with their people. He eats a little, then beckons his neighbors + to partake. When they have done so, he perhaps beckons to some one at a + distance to take a share; that person starts forward, seizes the pot, and + removes it to his own companions. The comrades of Sekeletu, wishing to + imitate him in riding on my old horse, leaped on the backs of a number of + half-broken Batoka oxen as they ran, but, having neither saddle nor + bridle, the number of tumbles they met with was a source of much amusement + to the rest. Troops of leches, or, as they are here called, "lechwes", + appeared feeding quite heedlessly all over the flats; they exist here in + prodigious herds, although the numbers of them and of the "nakong" that + are killed annually must be enormous. Both are water antelopes, and, when + the lands we now tread upon are flooded, they betake themselves to the + mounds I have alluded to. The Makalaka, who are most expert in the + management of their small, thin, light canoes, come gently toward them; + the men stand upright in the canoe, though it is not more than fifteen or + eighteen inches wide and about fifteen feet long; their paddles, ten feet + in height, are of a kind of wood called molompi, very light, yet as + elastic as ash. With these they either punt or paddle, according to the + shallowness or depth of the water. When they perceive the antelopes + beginning to move they increase their speed, and pursue them with great + velocity. They make the water dash away from the gunwale, and, though the + leche goes off by a succession of prodigious bounds, its feet appearing to + touch the bottom at each spring, they manage to spear great numbers of + them. + </p> + <p> + The nakong often shares a similar fate. This is a new species, rather + smaller than the leche, and in shape has more of paunchiness than any + antelope I ever saw. Its gait closely resembles the gallop of a dog when + tired. The hair is long and rather sparse, so that it is never + sleek-looking. It is of a grayish-brown color, and has horns twisted in + the manner of a koodoo, but much smaller, and with a double ridge winding + round each of them. + </p> + <p> + Its habitat is the marsh and the muddy bogs; the great length of its foot + between the point of the toe and supplemental hoofs enables it to make a + print about a foot in length; it feeds by night, and lies hid among the + reeds and rushes by day; when pursued, it dashes into sedgy places + containing water, and immerses the whole body, leaving only the point of + the nose and ends of the horns exposed. The hunters burn large patches of + reed in order to drive the nakong out of his lair; occasionally the ends + of the horns project above the water; but when it sees itself surrounded + by enemies in canoes, it will rather allow its horns to be scorched in the + burning reed than come forth from its hiding-place. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived at any village the women all turned out to lulliloo their + chief. Their shrill voices, to which they give a tremulous sound by a + quick motion of the tongue, peal forth, "Great lion!" "Great chief!" + "Sleep, my lord!" etc. The men utter similar salutations; and Sekeletu + receives all with becoming indifference. After a few minutes' conversation + and telling the news, the head man of the village, who is almost always a + Makololo, rises, and brings forth a number of large pots of beer. + Calabashes, being used as drinking-cups, are handed round, and as many as + can partake of the beverage do so, grasping the vessels so eagerly that + they are in danger of being broken. + </p> + <p> + They bring forth also large pots and bowls of thick milk; some contain six + or eight gallons; and each of these, as well as of the beer, is given to a + particular person, who has the power to divide it with whom he pleases. + The head man of any section of the tribe is generally selected for this + office. Spoons not being generally in fashion, the milk is conveyed to the + mouth with the hand. I often presented my friends with iron spoons, and it + was curious to observe how their habit of hand-eating prevailed, though + they were delighted with the spoons. They lifted out a little with the + utensil, then put it on the left hand, and ate it out of that. + </p> + <p> + As the Makololo have great abundance of cattle, and the chief is expected + to feed all who accompany him, he either selects an ox or two of his own + from the numerous cattle stations that he possesses at different spots all + over the country, or is presented by the head men of the villages he + visits with as many as he needs by way of tribute. The animals are killed + by a thrust from a small javelin in the region of the heart, the wound + being purposely small in order to avoid any loss of blood, which, with the + internal parts, are the perquisites of the men who perform the work of the + butcher; hence all are eager to render service in that line. Each tribe + has its own way of cutting up and distributing an animal. Among the + Makololo the hump and ribs belong to the chief; among the Bakwains the + breast is his perquisite. After the oxen are cut up, the different joints + are placed before Sekeletu, and he apportions them among the gentlemen of + the party. The whole is rapidly divided by their attendants, cut into long + strips, and so many of these are thrown into the fires at once that they + are nearly put out. Half broiled and burning hot, the meat is quickly + handed round; every one gets a mouthful, but no one except the chief has + time to masticate. It is not the enjoyment of eating they aim at, but to + get as much of the food into the stomach as possible during the short time + the others are cramming as well as themselves, for no one can eat more + than a mouthful after the others have finished. They are eminently + gregarious in their eating; and, as they despise any one who eats alone, I + always poured out two cups of coffee at my own meals, so that the chief, + or some one of the principal men, might partake along with me. They all + soon become very fond of coffee; and, indeed, some of the tribes attribute + greater fecundity to the daily use of this beverage. They were all well + acquainted with the sugar-cane, as they cultivate it in the Barotse + country, but knew nothing of the method of extracting the sugar from it. + They use the cane only for chewing. Sekeletu, relishing the sweet coffee + and biscuits, of which I then had a store, said "he knew my heart loved + him by finding his own heart warming to my food." He had been visited + during my absence at the Cape by some traders and Griquas, and "their + coffee did not taste half so nice as mine, because they loved his ivory + and not himself." This was certainly an original mode of discerning + character. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu and I had each a little gipsy-tent in which to sleep. The + Makololo huts are generally clean, while those of the Makalaka are + infested with vermin. The cleanliness of the former is owing to the habit + of frequently smearing the floors with a plaster composed of cowdung and + earth. If we slept in the tent in some villages, the mice ran over our + faces and disturbed our sleep, or hungry prowling dogs would eat our shoes + and leave only the soles. When they were guilty of this and other + misdemeanors, we got the loan of a hut. The best sort of Makololo huts + consist of three circular walls, with small holes as doors, each similar + to that in a dog-house; and it is necessary to bend down the body to get + in, even when on all-fours. The roof is formed of reeds or straight + sticks, in shape like a Chinaman's hat, bound firmly together with + circular bands, which are lashed with the strong inner bark of the + mimosa-tree. When all prepared except the thatch, it is lifted on to the + circular wall, the rim resting on a circle of poles, between each of which + the third wall is built. The roof is thatched with fine grass, and sewed + with the same material as the lashings; and, as it projects far beyond the + walls, and reaches within four feet of the ground, the shade is the best + to be found in the country. These huts are very cool in the hottest day, + but are close and deficient in ventilation by night. + </p> + <p> + The bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with twine; the hip-bone + soon becomes sore on the hard flat surface, as we are not allowed to make + a hole in the floor to receive the prominent part called trochanter by + anatomists, as we do when sleeping on grass or sand. + </p> + <p> + Our course at this time led us to a part above Sesheke, called Katonga, + where there is a village belonging to a Bashubia man named Sekhosi—latitude + 17d 29' 13", longitude 24d 33'. The river here is somewhat broader than at + Sesheke, and certainly not less than six hundred yards. It flows somewhat + slowly in the first part of its eastern course. When the canoes came from + Sekhosi to take us over, one of the comrades of Sebituane rose, and, + looking to Sekeletu, called out, "The elders of a host always take the + lead in an attack." This was understood at once; and Sekeletu, with all + the young men, were obliged to give the elders the precedence, and remain + on the southern bank and see that all went orderly into the canoes. It + took a considerable time to ferry over the whole of our large party, as, + even with quick paddling, from six to eight minutes were spent in the mere + passage from bank to bank. + </p> + <p> + Several days were spent in collecting canoes from different villages on + the river, which we now learned is called by the whole of the Barotse the + Liambai or Leeambye. This we could not ascertain on our first visit, and, + consequently, called the river after the town "Sesheke". This term Sesheke + means "white sand-banks", many of which exist at this part. There is + another village in the valley of the Barotse likewise called Sesheke, and + for the same reason; but the term Leeambye means "the large river", or the + river PAR EXCELLENCE. Luambeji, Luambesi, Ambezi, Ojimbesi, and Zambesi, + etc., are names applied to it at different parts of its course, according + to the dialect spoken, and all possess a similar signification, and + express the native idea of this magnificent stream being the main drain of + the country. + </p> + <p> + In order to assist in the support of our large party, and at the same time + to see the adjacent country, I went several times, during our stay, to the + north of the village for game. The country is covered with clumps of + beautiful trees, among which fine open glades stretch away in every + direction; when the river is in flood these are inundated, but the + tree-covered elevated spots are much more numerous here than in the + country between the Chobe and the Leeambye. The soil is dark loam, as it + is every where on spots reached by the inundation, while among the trees + it is sandy, and not covered so densely with grass as elsewhere. A sandy + ridge covered with trees, running parallel to, and about eight miles from + the river, is the limit of the inundation on the north; there are large + tracts of this sandy forest in that direction, till you come to other + districts of alluvial soil and fewer trees. The latter soil is always + found in the vicinity of rivers which either now overflow their banks + annually, or formerly did so. The people enjoy rain in sufficient quantity + to raise very large supplies of grain and ground-nuts. + </p> + <p> + This district contains great numbers of a small antelope named Tianyane, + unknown in the south. It stands about eighteen inches high, is very + graceful in its movements, and utters a cry of alarm not unlike that of + the domestic fowl; it is of a brownish-red color on the sides and back, + with the belly and lower part of the tail white; it is very timid, but the + maternal affection that the little thing bears to its young will often + induce it to offer battle even to a man approaching it. When the young one + is too tender to run about with the dam, she puts one foot on the + prominence about the seventh cervical vertebra, or withers; the instinct + of the young enables it to understand that it is now required to kneel + down, and to remain quite still till it hears the bleating of its dam. If + you see an otherwise gregarious she-antelope separated from the herd, and + going alone any where, you may be sure she has laid her little one to + sleep in some cozy spot. The color of the hair in the young is better + adapted for assimilating it with the ground than that of the older + animals, which do not need to be screened from the observation of birds of + prey. I observed the Arabs at Aden, when making their camels kneel down, + press the thumb on the withers in exactly the same way the antelopes do + with their young; probably they have been led to the custom by seeing this + plan adopted by the gazelle of the Desert. + </p> + <p> + Great numbers of buffaloes, zebras, tsessebes, tahaetsi, and eland, or + pohu, grazed undisturbed on these plains, so that very little exertion was + required to secure a fair supply of meat for the party during the + necessary delay. Hunting on foot, as all those who have engaged in it in + this country will at once admit, is very hard work indeed. The heat of the + sun by day is so great, even in winter, as it now was, that, had there + been any one on whom I could have thrown the task, he would have been most + welcome to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart. But the Makololo + shot so badly, that, in order to save my powder, I was obliged to go + myself. + </p> + <p> + We shot a beautiful cow-eland, standing in the shade of a fine tree. It + was evident that she had lately had her calf killed by a lion, for there + were five long deep scratches on both sides of her hind-quarters, as if + she had run to the rescue of her calf, and the lion, leaving it, had + attacked herself, but was unable to pull her down. When lying on the + ground, the milk flowing from the large udder showed that she must have + been seeking the shade, from the distress its non-removal in the natural + manner caused. She was a beautiful creature, and Lebeole, a Makololo + gentleman who accompanied me, speaking in reference to its size and + beauty, said, "Jesus ought to have given us these instead of cattle." It + was a new, undescribed variety of this splendid antelope. It was marked + with narrow white bands across the body, exactly like those of the koodoo, + and had a black patch of more than a handbreadth on the outer side of the + fore-arm. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 12. + </h2> + <p> + Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye—Beautiful Islands—Winter + Landscape—Industry and Skill of the Banyeti—Rapids—Falls + of Gonye—Tradition—Annual Inundations—Fertility of the + great Barotse Valley—Execution of two Conspirators—The + Slave-dealer's Stockade—Naliele, the Capital, built on an artificial + Mound—Santuru, a great Hunter—The Barotse Method of + commemorating any remarkable Event—Better Treatment of Women—More + religious Feeling—Belief in a future State, and in the Existence of + spiritual Beings—Gardens—Fish, Fruit, and Game—Proceed + to the Limits of the Barotse Country— Sekeletu provides Rowers and a + Herald—The River and Vicinity— Hippopotamus-hunters—No + healthy Location—Determine to go to Loanda— Buffaloes, Elands, + and Lions above Libonta—Interview with the Mambari— Two Arabs + from Zanzibar—Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English + —Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu—Joy of the People at the first + Visit of their Chief—Return to Sesheke—Heathenism. + </p> + <p> + Having at last procured a sufficient number of canoes, we began to ascend + the river. I had the choice of the whole fleet, and selected the best, + though not the largest; it was thirty-four feet long by twenty inches + wide. I had six paddlers, and the larger canoe of Sekeletu had ten. They + stand upright, and keep the stroke with great precision, though they + change from side to side as the course demands. The men at the head and + stern are selected from the strongest and most expert of the whole. The + canoes, being flat bottomed, can go into very shallow water; and whenever + the men can feel the bottom they use the paddles, which are about eight + feet long, as poles to punt with. Our fleet consisted of thirty-three + canoes, and about one hundred and sixty men. It was beautiful to see them + skimming along so quickly, and keeping the time so well. On land the + Makalaka fear the Makololo; on water the Makololo fear them, and can not + prevent them from racing with each other, dashing along at the top of + their speed, and placing their masters' lives in danger. In the event of a + capsize, many of the Makololo would sink like stones. A case of this kind + happened on the first day of our voyage up. The wind, blowing generally + from the east, raises very large waves on the Leeambye. An old doctor of + the Makololo had his canoe filled by one of these waves, and, being unable + to swim, was lost. The Barotse who were in the canoe with him saved + themselves by swimming, and were afraid of being punished with death in + the evening for not saving the doctor as well. Had he been a man of more + influence, they certainly would have suffered death. + </p> + <p> + We proceeded rapidly up the river, and I felt the pleasure of looking on + lands which had never been seen by a European before. The river is, + indeed, a magnificent one, often more than a mile broad, and adorned with + many islands of from three to five miles in length. Both islands and banks + are covered with forest, and most of the trees on the brink of the water + send down roots from their branches like the banian, or 'Ficus Indica'. + The islands at a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan + vegetation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The beauty of + the scenery of some of the islands is greatly increased by the date-palm, + with its gracefully curved fronds and refreshing light green color, near + the bottom of the picture, and the lofty palmyra towering far above, and + casting its feathery foliage against a cloudless sky. It being winter, we + had the strange coloring on the banks which many parts of African + landscape assume. The country adjacent to the river is rocky and + undulating, abounding in elephants and all other large game, except leches + and nakongs, which seem generally to avoid stony ground. The soil is of a + reddish color, and very fertile, as is attested by the great quantity of + grain raised annually by the Banyeti. A great many villages of this poor + and very industrious people are situated on both banks of the river: they + are expert hunters of the hippopotami and other animals, and very + proficient in the manufacture of articles of wood and iron. The whole of + this part of the country being infested with the tsetse, they are unable + to rear domestic animals. This may have led to their skill in handicraft + works. Some make large wooden vessels with very neat lids, and wooden + bowls of all sizes; and since the idea of sitting on stools has entered + the Makololo mind, they have shown great taste in the different forms + given to the legs of these pieces of furniture. + </p> + <p> + Other Banyeti, or Manyeti, as they are called, make neat and strong + baskets of the split roots of a certain tree, while others excel in + pottery and iron. I can not find that they have ever been warlike. Indeed, + the wars in the centre of the country, where no slave-trade existed, have + seldom been about any thing else but cattle. So well known is this, that + several tribes refuse to keep cattle because they tempt their enemies to + come and steal. Nevertheless, they have no objection to eat them when + offered, and their country admits of being well stocked. I have heard of + but one war having occurred from another cause. Three brothers, Barolongs, + fought for the possession of a woman who was considered worth a battle, + and the tribe has remained permanently divided ever since. + </p> + <p> + From the bend up to the north, called Katima-molelo (I quenched fire), the + bed of the river is rocky, and the stream runs fast, forming a succession + of rapids and cataracts, which prevent continuous navigation when the + water is low. The rapids are not visible when the river is full, but the + cataracts of Nambwe, Bombwe, and Kale must always be dangerous. The fall + at each of these is between four and six feet. But the falls of Gonye + present a much more serious obstacle. There we were obliged to take the + canoes out of the water, and carry them more than a mile by land. The fall + is about thirty feet. The main body of water, which comes over the ledge + of rock when the river is low, is collected into a space seventy or eighty + yards wide before it takes the leap, and, a mass of rock being thrust + forward against the roaring torrent, a loud sound is produced. Tradition + reports the destruction in this place of two hippopotamus-hunters, who, + over-eager in the pursuit of a wounded animal, were, with their intended + prey, drawn down into the frightful gulf. There is also a tradition of a + man, evidently of a superior mind, who left his own countrymen, the + Barotse, and came down the river, took advantage of the falls, and led out + a portion of the water there for irrigation. Such minds must have arisen + from time to time in these regions, as well as in our own country, but, + ignorant of the use of letters, they have left no memorial behind them. We + dug out some of an inferior kind of potato ('Sisinyane') from his garden, + for when once planted it never dies out. This root is bitter and waxy, + though it is cultivated. It was not in flower, so I can not say whether it + is a solanaceous plant or not. One never expects to find a grave nor a + stone of remembrance set up in Africa; the very rocks are illiterate, they + contain so few fossils. Those here are of reddish variegated, hardened + sandstone, with madrepore holes in it. This, and broad horizontal strata + of trap, sometimes a hundred miles in extent, and each layer having an + inch or so of black silicious matter on it, as if it had floated there + while in a state of fusion, form a great part of the bottom of the central + valley. These rocks, in the southern part of the country especially, are + often covered with twelve or fifteen feet of soft calcareous tufa. At + Bombwe we have the same trap, with radiated zeolite, probably mesotype, + and it again appears at the confluence of the Chobe, farther down. + </p> + <p> + As we passed up the river, the different villages of Banyeti turned out to + present Sekeletu with food and skins, as their tribute. One large village + is placed at Gonye, the inhabitants of which are required to assist the + Makololo to carry their canoes past the falls. The tsetse here lighted on + us even in the middle of the stream. This we crossed repeatedly, in order + to make short cuts at bends of the river. The course is, however, + remarkably straight among the rocks; and here the river is shallow, on + account of the great breadth of surface which it covers. When we came to + about 16d 16' S. latitude, the high wooded banks seemed to leave the + river, and no more tsetse appeared. Viewed from the flat, reedy basin in + which the river then flowed, the banks seemed prolonged into ridges, of + the same wooded character, two or three hundred feet high, and stretched + away to the N.N.E. and N.N.W. until they were twenty or thirty miles + apart. The intervening space, nearly one hundred miles in length, with the + Leeambye winding gently near the middle, is the true Barotse valley. It + bears a close resemblance to the valley of the Nile, and is inundated + annually, not by rains, but by the Leeambye, exactly as Lower Egypt is + flooded by the Nile. The villages of the Barotse are built on mounds, some + of which are said to have been raised artificially by Santuru, a former + chief of the Barotse, and during the inundation the whole valley assumes + the appearance of a large lake, with the villages on the mounds like + islands, just as occurs in Egypt with the villages of the Egyptians. Some + portion of the waters of inundation comes from the northwest, where great + floodings also occur, but more comes from the north and northeast, + descending the bed of the Leeambye itself. There are but few trees in this + valley: those which stand on the mounds were nearly all transplanted by + Santuru for shade. The soil is extremely fertile, and the people are never + in want of grain, for, by taking advantage of the moisture of the + inundation, they can take two crops a year. The Barotse are strongly + attached to this fertile valley; they say, "Here hunger is not known." + There are so many things besides corn which a man can find in it for food, + that it is no wonder they desert from Linyanti to return to this place. + </p> + <p> + The great valley is not put to a tithe of the use it might be. It is + covered with coarse succulent grasses, which afford ample pasturage for + large herds of cattle; these thrive wonderfully, and give milk copiously + to their owners. When the valley is flooded, the cattle are compelled to + leave it and go to the higher lands, where they fall off in condition; + their return is a time of joy. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible to say whether this valley, which contains so much + moisture, would raise wheat as the valley of the Nile does. It is probably + too rich, and would make corn run entirely to straw, for one species of + grass was observed twelve feet high, with a stem as thick as a man's + thumb. At present the pasturage is never eaten off, though the Makololo + possess immense herds of cattle. + </p> + <p> + There are no large towns, the mounds on which the towns and villages are + built being all small, and the people require to live apart on account of + their cattle. + </p> + <p> + This visit was the first Sekeletu had made to these parts since he + attained the chieftainship. Those who had taken part with Mpepe were + consequently in great terror. When we came to the town of Mpepe's father, + as he and another man had counseled Mamochisane to put Sekeletu to death + and marry Mpepe, the two were led forth and tossed into the river. Nokuane + was again one of the executioners. When I remonstrated against human blood + being shed in the offhand way in which they were proceeding, the + counselors justified their acts by the evidence given by Mamochisane, and + calmly added, "You see we are still Boers; we are not yet taught." + </p> + <p> + Mpepe had given full permission to the Mambari slave-dealers to trade in + all the Batoka and Bashukulompo villages to the east of this. He had given + them cattle, ivory, and children, and had received in return a large + blunderbuss to be mounted as a cannon. When the slight circumstance of my + having covered the body of the chief with my own deranged the whole + conspiracy, the Mambari, in their stockade, were placed in very awkward + circumstances. It was proposed to attack them and drive them out of the + country at once; but, dreading a commencement of hostilities, I urged the + difficulties of that course, and showed that a stockade defended by + perhaps forty muskets would be a very serious affair. "Hunger is strong + enough for that," said an under-chief; "a very great fellow is he." They + thought of attacking them by starvation. As the chief sufferers in case of + such an attack would have been the poor slaves chained in gangs, I + interceded for them, and the result of an intercession of which they were + ignorant was that they were allowed to depart in peace. + </p> + <p> + Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, is built on a mound which was + constructed artificially by Santuru, and was his store-house for grain. + His own capital stood about five hundred yards to the south of that, in + what is now the bed of the river. All that remains of the largest mound in + the valley are a few cubic yards of earth, to erect which cost the whole + of the people of Santuru the labor of many years. The same thing has + happened to another ancient site of a town, Linangelo, also on the left + bank. It would seem, therefore, that the river in this part of the valley + must be wearing eastward. No great rise of the river is required to + submerge the whole valley; a rise of ten feet above the present low-water + mark would reach the highest point it ever attains, as seen in the + markings of the bank on which stood Santuru's ancient capital, and two or + three feet more would deluge all the villages. This never happens, though + the water sometimes comes so near the foundations of the huts that the + people can not move outside the walls of reeds which encircle their + villages. When the river is compressed among the high rocky banks near + Gonye, it rises sixty feet. + </p> + <p> + The influence of the partial obstruction it meets with there is seen in + the more winding course of the river north of 16 Deg.; and when the swell + gets past Katima-molelo, it spreads out on the lands on both banks toward + Sesheke. + </p> + <p> + Santuru, at whose ancient granary we are staying, was a great hunter, and + very fond of taming wild animals. His people, aware of his taste, brought + to him every young antelope they could catch, and, among other things, two + young hippopotami. These animals gamboled in the river by day, but never + failed to remember to come up to Naliele for their suppers of milk and + meal. They were the wonder of the country, till a stranger, happening to + come to visit Santuru, saw them reclining in the sun, and speared one of + them on the supposition that it was wild. The same unlucky accident + happened to one of the cats I had brought to Sekeletu. A stranger, seeing + an animal he had never viewed before, killed it, and brought the trophy to + the chief, thinking that he had made a very remarkable discovery; we + thereby lost the breed of cats, of which, from the swarms of mice, we + stood in great need. + </p> + <p> + On making inquiries to ascertain whether Santuru, the Moloiana, had ever + been visited by white men, I could find no vestige of any such visit;* + there is no evidence of any of Santuru's people having ever seen a white + man before the arrival of Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. The people have, + it is true, no written records; but any remarkable event here is + commemorated in names, as was observed by Park to be the case in the + countries he traversed. The year of our arrival is dignified by the name + of the year when the white men came, or of Sebituane's death; but they + prefer the former, as they avoid, if possible, any direct reference to the + departed. After my wife's first visit, great numbers of children were + named Ma-Robert, or mother of Robert, her eldest child; others were named + Gun, Horse, Wagon, Monare, Jesus, etc.; but though our names, and those of + the native Portuguese who came in 1853, were adopted, there is not a trace + of any thing of the sort having happened previously among the Barotse: the + visit of a white man is such a remarkable event, that, had any taken place + during the last three hundred years, there must have remained some + tradition of it. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The Barotse call themselves the Baloiana or little Baloi, as + if they had been an offset from Loi, or Lui, as it is often + spelt. As Lui had been visited by Portuguese, but its position + not well ascertained, my inquiries referred to the identity of + Naliele with Lui. On asking the head man of the Mambari + party, named Porto, whether he had ever heard of Naliele being + visited previously, he replied in the negative, and stated + that he "had himself attempted to come from Bihe three times, + but had always been prevented by the tribe called Ganguellas." + He nearly succeeded in 1852, but was driven back. He now (in + 1853) attempted to go eastward from Naliele, but came back to + the Barotse on being unable to go beyond Kainko's village, + which is situated on the Bashukulompo River, and eight days + distant. The whole party was anxious to secure a reward + believed to be promised by the Portuguese government. Their + want of success confirmed my impression that I ought to go + westward. Porto kindly offered to aid me, if I would go with + him to Bihe; but when I declined, he preceded me to Loanda, + and was publishing his Journal when I arrived at that city. + Ben Habib told me that Porto had sent letters to Mozambique by + the Arab, Ben Chombo, whom I knew; and he has since asserted, + in Portugal, that he himself went to Mozambique as well as his + letters! +</pre> + <p> + But Santuru was once visited by the Mambari, and a distinct recollection + of that visit is retained. They came to purchase slaves, and both Santuru + and his head men refused them permission to buy any of the people. The + Makololo quoted this precedent when speaking of the Mambari, and said that + they, as the present masters of the country, had as good a right to expel + them as Santuru. The Mambari reside near Bihe, under an Ambonda chief + named Kangombe. They profess to use the slaves for domestic purposes + alone. + </p> + <p> + Some of these Mambari visited us while at Naliele. They are of the Ambonda + family, which inhabits the country southeast of Angola, and speak the + Bunda dialect, which is of the same family of languages with the Barotse, + Bayeiye, etc., or those black tribes comprehended under the general term + Makalaka. They plait their hair in three-fold cords, and lay them + carefully down around the sides of the head. They are quite as dark as the + Barotse, but have among them a number of half-castes, with their peculiar + yellow sickly hue. On inquiring why they had fled on my approach to + Linyanti, they let me know that they had a vivid idea of the customs of + English cruisers on the coast. They showed also their habits in their own + country by digging up and eating, even here where large game abounds, the + mice and moles which infest the country. The half-castes, or native + Portuguese, could all read and write, and the head of the party, if not a + real Portuguese, had European hair, and, influenced probably by the letter + of recommendation which I held from the Chevalier Duprat, his most + faithful majesty's Arbitrator in the British and Portuguese Mixed + Commission at Cape Town, was evidently anxious to show me all the kindness + in his power. These persons I feel assured were the first individuals of + Portuguese blood who ever saw the Zambesi in the centre of the country, + and they had reached it two years after our discovery in 1851. + </p> + <p> + The town or mound of Santuru's mother was shown to me; this was the first + symptom of an altered state of feeling with regard to the female sex that + I had observed. There are few or no cases of women being elevated to the + headships of towns further south. The Barotse also showed some relics of + their chief, which evinced a greater amount of the religious feeling than + I had ever known displayed among Bechuanas. His more recent capital, + Lilonda, built, too, on an artificial mound, is covered with different + kinds of trees, transplanted when young by himself. They form a grove on + the end of the mound, in which are to be seen various instruments of iron + just in the state he left them. One looks like the guard of a + basket-hilted sword; another has an upright stem of the metal, on which + are placed branches worked at the ends into miniature axes, hoes, and + spears; on these he was accustomed to present offerings, according as he + desired favors to be conferred in undertaking hewing, agriculture, or + fighting. The people still living there, in charge of these articles, were + supported by presents from the chief; and the Makololo sometimes follow + the example. This was the nearest approach to a priesthood I met. When I + asked them to part with one of these relics, they replied, "Oh no, he + refuses." "Who refuses?" "Santuru," was their reply, showing their belief + in a future state of existence. After explaining to them, as I always did + when opportunity offered, the nature of true worship, and praying with + them in the simple form which needs no offering from the worshiper except + that of the heart, and planting some fruit-tree seeds in the grove, we + departed. + </p> + <p> + Another incident, which occurred at the confluence of the Leeba and + Leeambye, may be mentioned here, as showing a more vivid perception of the + existence of spiritual beings, and greater proneness to worship than among + the Bechuanas. Having taken lunar observations in the morning, I was + waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for the latitude; my chief + boatman was sitting by, in order to pack up the instruments as soon as I + had finished; there was a large halo, about 20 Deg. in diameter, round the + sun; thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere, which this indicated, + might betoken rain, I asked him if his experience did not lead him to the + same view. "Oh no," replied he; "it is the Barimo (gods or departed + spirits), who have called a picho; don't you see they have the Lord (sun) + in the centre?" + </p> + <p> + While still at Naliele I walked out to Katongo (lat. 15d 16' 33"), on the + ridge which bounds the valley of the Barotse in that direction, and found + it covered with trees. It is only the commencement of the lands which are + never inundated; their gentle rise from the dead level of the valley much + resembles the edge of the Desert in the valley of the Nile. But here the + Banyeti have fine gardens, and raise great quantities of maize, millet, + and native corn ('Holcus sorghum'), of large grain and beautifully white. + They grow, also, yams, sugar-cane, the Egyptian arum, sweet potato + ('Convolulus batata'), two kinds of manioc or cassava ('Jatropha manihot' + and 'J. utilissima', a variety containing scarcely any poison), besides + pumpkins, melons, beans, and ground-nuts. These, with plenty of fish in + the river, its branches and lagoons, wild fruits and water-fowl, always + make the people refer to the Barotse as the land of plenty. The scene from + the ridge, on looking back, was beautiful. One can not see the western + side of the valley in a cloudy day, such as that was when we visited the + stockade, but we could see the great river glancing out at different + points, and fine large herds of cattle quietly grazing on the green + succulent herbage, among numbers of cattle-stations and villages which are + dotted over the landscape. Leches in hundreds fed securely beside them, + for they have learned only to keep out of bow-shot, or two hundred yards. + When guns come into a country the animals soon learn their longer range, + and begin to run at a distance of five hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + I imagined the slight elevation (Katongo) might be healthy, but was + informed that no part of this region is exempt from fever. When the waters + begin to retire from this valley, such masses of decayed vegetation and + mud are exposed to the torrid sun that even the natives suffer severely + from attacks of fever. The grass is so rank in its growth that one can not + see the black alluvial soil of the bottom of this periodical lake. Even + when the grass falls down in winter, or is "laid" by its own weight, one + is obliged to lift the feet so high, to avoid being tripped up by it, as + to make walking excessively fatiguing. Young leches are hidden beneath it + by their dams; and the Makololo youth complain of being unable to run in + the Barotse land on this account. There was evidently no healthy spot in + this quarter; and the current of the river being about four and a half + miles per hour (one hundred yards in sixty seconds), I imagined we might + find what we needed in the higher lands, from which the river seemed to + come. I resolved, therefore, to go to the utmost limits of the Barotse + country before coming to a final conclusion. Katongo was the best place we + had seen; but, in order to accomplish a complete examination, I left + Sekeletu at Naliele, and ascended the river. He furnished me with men, + besides my rowers, and among the rest a herald, that I might enter his + villages in what is considered a dignified manner. This, it was supposed, + would be effected by the herald shouting out at the top of his voice, + "Here comes the lord; the great lion;" the latter phrase being "tau e + tona", which, in his imperfect way of pronunciation, became "Sau e tona", + and so like "the great sow" that I could not receive the honor with + becoming gravity, and had to entreat him, much to the annoyance of my + party, to be silent. + </p> + <p> + In our ascent we visited a number of Makololo villages, and were always + received with a hearty welcome, as messengers to them of peace, which they + term "sleep". They behave well in public meetings, even on the first + occasion of attendance, probably from the habit of commanding the + Makalaka, crowds of whom swarm in every village, and whom the Makololo + women seem to consider as especially under their charge. + </p> + <p> + The river presents the same appearance of low banks without trees as we + have remarked it had after we came to 16d 16', until we arrive at Libonta + (14d 59' S. lat.). Twenty miles beyond that, we find forest down to the + water's edge, and tsetse. Here I might have turned back, as no locality + can be inhabited by Europeans where that scourge exists; but hearing that + we were not far from the confluence of the River of Londa or Lunda, named + Leeba or Loiba, and the chiefs of that country being reported to be + friendly to strangers, and therefore likely to be of use to me on my + return from the west coast, I still pushed on to latitude 14d 11' 3" S. + There the Leeambye assumes the name Kabompo, and seems to be coming from + the east. It is a fine large river, about three hundred yards wide, and + the Leeba two hundred and fifty. The Loeti, a branch of which is called + Langebongo, comes from W.N.W., through a level grassy plain named Mango; + it is about one hundred yards wide, and enters the Leeambye from the west; + the waters of the Loeti are of a light color, and those of the Leeba of a + dark mossy hue. After the Loeti joins the Leeambye the different colored + waters flow side by side for some distance unmixed. + </p> + <p> + Before reaching the Loeti we came to a number of people from the Lobale + region, hunting hippopotami. They fled precipitately as soon as they saw + the Makololo, leaving their canoes and all their utensils and clothing. My + own Makalaka, who were accustomed to plunder wherever they went, rushed + after them like furies, totally regardless of my shouting. As this + proceeding would have destroyed my character entirely at Lobale, I took my + stand on a commanding position as they returned, and forced them to lay + down all the plunder on a sand-bank, and leave it there for its lawful + owners. + </p> + <p> + It was now quite evident that no healthy location could be obtained in + which the Makololo would be allowed to live in peace. I had thus a fair + excuse, if I had chosen to avail myself of it, of coming home and saying + that the "door was shut", because the Lord's time had not yet come. But + believing that it was my duty to devote some portion of my life to these + (to me at least) very confiding and affectionate Makololo, I resolved to + follow out the second part of my plan, though I had failed in + accomplishing the first. The Leeba seemed to come from the N. and by W., + or N.N.W.; so, having an old Portuguese map, which pointed out the Coanza + as rising from the middle of the continent in 9 Deg. S. lat., I thought it + probable that, when we had ascended the Leeba (from 14d 11') two or three + degrees, we should then be within one hundred and twenty miles of the + Coanza, and find no difficulty in following it down to the coast near + Loanda. This was the logical deduction; but, as is the case with many a + plausible theory, one of the premises was decidedly defective. The Coanza, + as we afterward found, does not come from any where near the centre of the + country. + </p> + <p> + The numbers of large game above Libonta are prodigious, and they proved + remarkably tame. Eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before + our fire one evening, within gunshot; and herds of splendid elands stood + by day, without fear, at two hundred yards distance. They were all of the + striped variety, and with their forearm markings, large dewlaps, and sleek + skins, were a beautiful sight to see. The lions here roar much more than + in the country near the lake, Zouga, and Chobe. One evening we had a good + opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal can make in that + line. We had made our beds on a large sand-bank, and could be easily seen + from all sides. A lion on the opposite shore amused himself for hours by + roaring as loudly as he could, putting, as is usual in such cases, his + mouth near the ground, to make the sound reverberate. The river was too + broad for a ball to reach him, so we let him enjoy himself, certain that + he durst not have been guilty of the impertinence in the Bushman country. + Wherever the game abounds, these animals exist in proportionate numbers. + Here they were very frequently seen, and two of the largest I ever saw + seemed about as tall as common donkeys; but the mane made their bodies + appear rather larger. + </p> + <p> + A party of Arabs from Zanzibar were in the country at this time. Sekeletu + had gone from Naliele to the town of his mother before we arrived from the + north, but left an ox for our use, and instructions for us to follow him + thither. We came down a branch of the Leeambye called Marile, which + departs from the main river in latitude 15d 15' 43" S., and is a fine deep + stream about sixty yards wide. It makes the whole of the country around + Naliele an island. When sleeping at a village in the same latitude as + Naliele town, two of the Arabs mentioned made their appearance. They were + quite as dark as the Makololo, but, having their heads shaved, I could not + compare their hair with that of the inhabitants of the country. When we + were about to leave they came to bid adieu, but I asked them to stay and + help us to eat our ox. As they had scruples about eating an animal not + blooded in their own way, I gained their good-will by saying I was quite + of their opinion as to getting quit of the blood, and gave them two legs + of an animal slaughtered by themselves. They professed the greatest + detestation of the Portuguese, "because they eat pigs;" and disliked the + English, "because they thrash them for selling slaves." I was silent about + pork; though, had they seen me at a hippopotamus two days afterward, they + would have set me down as being as much a heretic as any of that nation; + but I ventured to tell them that I agreed with the English, that it was + better to let the children grow up and comfort their mothers when they + became old, than to carry them away and sell them across the sea. This + they never attempt to justify; "they want them only to cultivate the land, + and take care of them as their children." It is the same old story, + justifying a monstrous wrong on pretense of taking care of those degraded + portions of humanity which can not take care of themselves; doing evil + that good may come. + </p> + <p> + These Arabs, or Moors, could read and write their own language readily; + and, when speaking about our Savior, I admired the boldness with which + they informed me "that Christ was a very good prophet, but Mohammed was + far greater." And with respect to their loathing of pork, it may have some + foundation in their nature; for I have known Bechuanas, who had no + prejudice against the wild animal, and ate the tame without scruple, yet, + unconscious of any cause of disgust, vomit it again. The Bechuanas south + of the lake have a prejudice against eating fish, and allege a disgust to + eating any thing like a serpent. This may arise from the remnants of + serpent-worship floating in their minds, as, in addition to this horror of + eating such animals, they sometimes render a sort of obeisance to living + serpents by clapping their hands to them, and refusing to destroy the + reptiles; but in the case of the hog they are conscious of no + superstitious feeling. + </p> + <p> + Having parted with our Arab friends, we proceeded down the Marile till we + re-entered the Leeambye, and went to the town of Ma-Sekeletu (mother of + Sekeletu), opposite the island of Loyela. Sekeletu had always supplied me + most liberally with food, and, as soon as I arrived, presented me with a + pot of boiled meat, while his mother handed me a large jar of butter, of + which they make great quantities for the purpose of anointing their + bodies. He had himself sometimes felt the benefit of my way of putting + aside a quantity of the meat after a meal, and had now followed my example + by ordering some to be kept for me. According to their habits, every + particle of an ox is devoured at one meal; and as the chief can not, + without a deviation from their customs, eat alone, he is often compelled + to suffer severely from hunger before another meal is ready. We henceforth + always worked into each other's hands by saving a little for each other; + and when some of the sticklers for use and custom grumbled, I advised them + to eat like men, and not like vultures. + </p> + <p> + As this was the first visit which Sekeletu had paid to this part of his + dominions, it was to many a season of great joy. The head men of each + village presented oxen, milk, and beer, more than the horde which + accompanied him could devour, though their abilities in that line are + something wonderful. The people usually show their joy and work off their + excitement in dances and songs. The dance consists of the men standing + nearly naked in a circle, with clubs or small battle-axes in their hands, + and each roaring at the loudest pitch of his voice, while they + simultaneously lift one leg, stamp heavily twice with it, then lift the + other and give one stamp with that; this is the only movement in common. + The arms and head are often thrown about also in every direction; and all + this time the roaring is kept up with the utmost possible vigor; the + continued stamping makes a cloud of dust ascend, and they leave a deep + ring in the ground where they stood. If the scene were witnessed in a + lunatic asylum it would be nothing out of the way, and quite appropriate + even, as a means of letting off the excessive excitement of the brain; but + here gray-headed men joined in the performance with as much zest as others + whose youth might be an excuse for making the perspiration stream off + their bodies with the exertion. Motibe asked what I thought of the + Makololo dance. I replied, "It is very hard work, and brings but small + profit." "It is," replied he, "but it is very nice, and Sekeletu will give + us an ox for dancing for him." He usually does slaughter an ox for the + dancers when the work is over. + </p> + <p> + The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one advances + into the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few movements, and + then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into the spirit + of the thing, I can not recommend the Makololo polka to the dancing world, + but I have the authority of no less a person than Motibe, Sekeletu's + father-in-law, for saying "it is very nice." They often asked if white + people ever danced. I thought of the disease called St. Vitus's dance, but + could not say that all our dancers were affected by it, and gave an answer + which, I ought to be ashamed to own, did not raise some of our young + countrywomen in the estimation of the Makololo. + </p> + <p> + As Sekeletu had been waiting for me at his mother's, we left the town as + soon as I arrived, and proceeded down the river. Our speed with the stream + was very great, for in one day we went from Litofe to Gonye, a distance of + forty-four miles of latitude; and if we add to this the windings of the + river, in longitude the distance will not be much less than sixty + geographical miles. At this rate we soon reached Sesheke, and then the + town of Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + I had been, during a nine weeks' tour, in closer contact with heathenism + than I had ever been before; and though all, including the chief, were as + kind and attentive to me as possible, and there was no want of food (oxen + being slaughtered daily, sometimes ten at a time, more than sufficient for + the wants of all), yet to endure the dancing, roaring, and singing, the + jesting, anecdotes, grumbling, quarreling, and murdering of these children + of nature, seemed more like a severe penance than any thing I had before + met with in the course of my missionary duties. I took thence a more + intense disgust at heathenism than I had before, and formed a greatly + elevated opinion of the latent effects of missions in the south, among + tribes which are reported to have been as savage as the Makololo. The + indirect benefits which, to a casual observer, lie beneath the surface and + are inappreciable, in reference to the probable wide diffusion of + Christianity at some future time, are worth all the money and labor that + have been expended to produce them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 13. + </h2> + <p> + Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey—A Picho—Twenty-seven + Men appointed to accompany me to the West—Eagerness of the Makololo + for direct Trade with the Coast—Effects of Fever—A Makololo + Question—The lost Journal—Reflections—The Outfit for the + Journey—11th November, 1853, leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe—Dangerous + Hippopotami—Banks of Chobe—Trees—The Course of the River—The + Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye— + Anecdote—Ascend the Leeambye—A Makalaka Mother defies the + Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke—Punishment of Thieves—Observance + of the new Moon—Public Addresses at Sesheke—Attention of the + People—Results—Proceed up the River—The Fruit which + yields 'Nux vomica'—Other Fruits—The Rapids—Birds—Fish—Hippopotami + and their Young. + </p> + <p> + Linyanti, SEPTEMBER, 1853. The object proposed to the Makololo seemed so + desirable that it was resolved to proceed with it as soon as the cooling + influence of the rains should be felt in November. The longitude and + latitude of Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" S., long. 23d 50' 9" E.) showed + that St. Philip de Benguela was much nearer to us than Loanda; and I might + have easily made arrangements with the Mambari to allow me to accompany + them as far as Bihe, which is on the road to that port; but it is so + undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave-traders that I + preferred to find out another line of march. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, men were sent at my suggestion to examine all the country to + the west, to see if any belt of country free from tsetse could be found to + afford us an outlet. The search was fruitless. The town and district of + Linyanti are surrounded by forests infested by this poisonous insect, + except at a few points, as that by which we entered at Sanshureh and + another at Sesheke. But the lands both east and west of the Barotse valley + are free from this insect plague. There, however, the slave-trade had + defiled the path, and no one ought to follow in its wake unless well + armed. The Mambari had informed me that many English lived at Loanda, so I + prepared to go thither. The prospect of meeting with countrymen seemed to + overbalance the toils of the longer march. + </p> + <p> + A "picho" was called to deliberate on the steps proposed. In these + assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed; and on this occasion one of + the old diviners said, "Where is he taking you to? This white man is + throwing you away. Your garments already smell of blood." It is curious to + observe how much identity of character appears all over the world. This + man was a noted croaker. He always dreamed something dreadful in every + expedition, and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened the + propriety of flight. But Sebituane formerly set his visions down to + cowardice, and Sekeletu only laughed at him now. The general voice was in + my favor; so a band of twenty-seven were appointed to accompany me to the + west. These men were not hired, but sent to enable me to accomplish an + object as much desired by the chief and most of his people as by me. They + were eager to obtain free and profitable trade with white men. The prices + which the Cape merchants could give, after defraying the great expenses of + a long journey hither, being very small, made it scarce worth while for + the natives to collect produce for that market; and the Mambari, giving + only a few bits of print and baize for elephants' tusks worth more pounds + than they gave yards of cloth, had produced the belief that trade with + them was throwing ivory away. The desire of the Makololo for direct trade + with the sea-coast coincided exactly with my own conviction that no + permanent elevation of a people can be effected without commerce. Neither + could there be a permanent mission here, unless the missionaries should + descend to the level of the Makololo, for even at Kolobeng we found that + traders demanded three or four times the price of the articles we needed, + and expected us to be grateful to them besides for letting us have them at + all. + </p> + <p> + The three men whom I had brought from Kuruman had frequent relapses of the + fever; so, finding that instead of serving me I had to wait on them, I + decided that they should return to the south with Fleming as soon as he + had finished his trading. I was then entirely dependent on my twenty-seven + men, whom I might name Zambesians, for there were two Makololo only, while + the rest consisted of Barotse, Batoka, Bashubia, and two of the Ambonda. + </p> + <p> + The fever had caused considerable weakness in my own frame, and a strange + giddiness when I looked up suddenly to any celestial object, for every + thing seemed to rush to the left, and if I did not catch hold of some + object, I fell heavily on the ground: something resembling a gush of bile + along the duct from the liver caused the same fit to occur at night, + whenever I turned suddenly round. + </p> + <p> + The Makololo now put the question, "In the event of your death, will not + the white people blame us for having allowed you to go away into an + unhealthy, unknown country of enemies?" I replied that none of my friends + would blame them, because I would leave a book with Sekeletu, to be sent + to Mr. Moffat in case I did not return, which would explain to him all + that had happened until the time of my departure. The book was a volume of + my Journal; and, as I was detained longer than I expected at Loanda, this + book, with a letter, was delivered by Sekeletu to a trader, and I have + been unable to trace it. I regret this now, as it contained valuable notes + on the habits of wild animals, and the request was made in the letter to + convey the volume to my family. The prospect of passing away from this + fair and beautiful world thus came before me in a pretty plain, + matter-of-fact form, and it did seem a serious thing to leave wife and + children—to break up all connection with earth, and enter on an + untried state of existence; and I find myself in my journal pondering over + that fearful migration which lands us in eternity, wondering whether an + angel will soothe the fluttering soul, sadly flurried as it must be on + entering the spirit world, and hoping that Jesus might speak but one word + of peace, for that would establish in the bosom an everlasting calm. But + as I had always believed that, if we serve God at all, it ought to be done + in a manly way, I wrote to my brother, commending our little girl to his + care, as I was determined to "succeed or perish" in the attempt to open up + this part of Africa. The Boers, by taking possession of all my goods, had + saved me the trouble of making a will; and, considering the light heart + now left in my bosom, and some faint efforts to perform the duty of + Christian forgiveness, I felt that it was better to be the plundered party + than one of the plunderers. + </p> + <p> + When I committed the wagon and remaining goods to the care of the + Makololo, they took all the articles except one box into their huts; and + two warriors, Ponuane and Mahale, brought forward each a fine heifer calf. + After performing a number of warlike evolutions, they asked the chief to + witness the agreement made between them, that whoever of the two should + kill a Matebele warrior first, in defense of the wagon, should possess + both the calves. + </p> + <p> + I had three muskets for my people, a rifle and double-barreled smooth-bore + for myself; and, having seen such great abundance of game in my visit to + the Leeba, I imagined that I could easily supply the wants of my party. + Wishing also to avoid the discouragement which would naturally be felt on + meeting any obstacles if my companions were obliged to carry heavy loads, + I took only a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, and about + twenty of coffee, which, as the Arabs find, though used without either + milk or sugar, is a most refreshing beverage after fatigue or exposure to + the sun. We carried one small tin canister, about fifteen inches square, + filled with spare shirting, trowsers, and shoes, to be used when we + reached civilized life, and others in a bag, which were expected to wear + out on the way; another of the same size for medicines; and a third for + books, my stock being a Nautical Almanac, Thomson's Logarithm Tables, and + a Bible; a fourth box contained a magic lantern, which we found of much + use. The sextant and artificial horizon, thermometer, and compasses were + carried apart. My ammunition was distributed in portions through the whole + luggage, so that, if an accident should befall one part, we could still + have others to fall back upon. Our chief hopes for food were upon that; + but in case of failure, I took about 20 lbs. of beads, worth 40s., which + still remained of the stock I brought from Cape Town, a small gipsy tent, + just sufficient to sleep in, a sheep-skin mantle as a blanket, and a + horse-rug as a bed. As I had always found that the art of successful + travel consisted in taking as few "impedimenta" as possible, and not + forgetting to carry my wits about me, the outfit was rather spare, and + intended to be still more so when we should come to leave the canoes. Some + would consider it injudicious to adopt this plan, but I had a secret + conviction that if I did not succeed, it would not be for want of the + "knick-knacks" advertised as indispensable for travelers, but from want of + "pluck", or because a large array of baggage excited the cupidity of the + tribes through whose country we wished to pass. + </p> + <p> + The instruments I carried, though few, were the best of their kind. A + sextant, by the famed makers Troughton and Sims, of Fleet Street; a + chronometer watch, with a stop to the seconds hand—an admirable + contrivance for enabling a person to take the exact time of observations: + it was constructed by Dent, of the Strand (61), for the Royal Geographical + Society, and selected for the service by the President, Admiral Smythe, to + whose judgment and kindness I am in this and other matters deeply + indebted. It was pronounced by Mr. Maclear to equal most chronometers in + performance. For these excellent instruments I have much pleasure in + recording my obligations to my good friend Colonel Steele, and at the same + time to Mr. Maclear for much of my ability to use them. Besides these, I + had a thermometer by Dollond; a compass from the Cape Observatory, and a + small pocket one in addition; a good small telescope with a stand capable + of being screwed into a tree. + </p> + <p> + 11TH OF NOVEMBER, 1853. Left the town of Linyanti, accompanied by Sekeletu + and his principal men, to embark on the Chobe. The chief came to the river + in order to see that all was right at parting. We crossed five branches of + the Chobe before reaching the main stream: this ramification must be the + reason why it appeared so small to Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. When all + the departing branches re-enter, it is a large, deep river. The spot of + embarkation was the identical island where we met Sebituane, first known + as the island of Maunku, one of his wives. The chief lent me his own + canoe, and, as it was broader than usual, I could turn about in it with + ease. + </p> + <p> + The Chobe is much infested by hippopotami, and, as certain elderly males + are expelled the herd, they become soured in their temper, and so + misanthropic as to attack every canoe that passes near them. The herd is + never dangerous, except when a canoe passes into the midst of it when all + are asleep, and some of them may strike the canoe in terror. To avoid + this, it is generally recommended to travel by day near the bank, and by + night in the middle of the stream. As a rule, these animals flee the + approach of man. The "solitaires", however, frequent certain localities + well known to the inhabitants on the banks, and, like the rogue elephants, + are extremely dangerous. We came, at this time, to a canoe which had been + smashed to pieces by a blow from the hind foot of one of them. I was + informed by my men that, in the event of a similar assault being made upon + ours, the proper way was to dive to the bottom of the river, and hold on + there for a few seconds, because the hippopotamus, after breaking a canoe, + always looks for the people on the surface, and, if he sees none, he soon + moves off. I have seen some frightful gashes made on the legs of the + people who have had the misfortune to be attacked, and were unable to + dive. This animal uses his teeth as an offensive weapon, though he is + quite a herbivorous feeder. One of these "bachelors", living near the + confluence, actually came out of his lair, and, putting his head down, ran + after some of our men who were passing with very considerable speed. + </p> + <p> + The part of the river called Zabesa, or Zabenza, is spread out like a + little lake, surrounded on all sides by dense masses of tall reeds. The + river below that is always one hundred or one hundred and twenty yards + broad, deep, and never dries up so much as to become fordable. At certain + parts, where the partial absence of reeds affords a view of the opposite + banks, the Makololo have placed villages of observation against their + enemies the Matebele. We visited all these in succession, and found here, + as every where in the Makololo country, orders had preceded us, "that Nake + (nyake means doctor) must not be allowed to become hungry." + </p> + <p> + The banks of the Chobe, like those of the Zouga, are of soft calcareous + tufa, and the river has cut out for itself a deep, perpendicular-sided + bed. Where the banks are high, as at the spot where the wagons stood in + 1851, they are covered with magnificent trees, the habitat of tsetse, and + the retreat of various antelopes, wild hogs, zebras, buffaloes, and + elephants. + </p> + <p> + Among the trees may be observed some species of the 'Ficus Indica', + light-green colored acacias, the splendid motsintsela, and evergreen + cypress-shaped motsouri. The fruit of the last-named was ripe, and the + villagers presented many dishes of its beautiful pink-colored plums; they + are used chiefly to form a pleasant acid drink. The motsintsela is a very + lofty tree, yielding a wood of which good canoes are made; the fruit is + nutritious and good, but, like many wild fruits of this country, the + fleshy parts require to be enlarged by cultivation: it is nearly all + stone. + </p> + <p> + The course of the river we found to be extremely tortuous; so much so, + indeed, as to carry us to all points of the compass every dozen miles. + Some of us walked from a bend at the village of Moremi to another nearly + due east of that point, in six hours, while the canoes, going at more than + double our speed, took twelve to accomplish the voyage between the same + two places. And though the river is from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth + at its lowest ebb, and broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it, the + suddenness of the bendings would prevent navigation; but, should the + country ever become civilized, the Chobe would be a convenient natural + canal. We spent forty-two and a half hours, paddling at the rate of five + miles an hour, in coming from Linyanti to the confluence; there we found a + dike of amygdaloid lying across the Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + This amygdaloid with analami and mesotype contains crystals, which the + water gradually dissolves, leaving the rock with a worm-eaten appearance. + It is curious to observe that the water flowing over certain rocks, as in + this instance, imbibes an appreciable, though necessarily most minute, + portion of the minerals they contain. The water of the Chobe up to this + point is of a dark mossy hue, but here it suddenly assumes a lighter tint; + and wherever this light color shows a greater amount of mineral, there are + not mosquitoes enough to cause serious annoyance to any except persons of + very irritable temperaments. + </p> + <p> + The large island called Mparia stands at the confluence. This is composed + of trap (zeolite, probably mesotype) of a younger age than the deep + stratum of tufa in which the Chobe has formed its bed, for, at the point + where they come together, the tufa has been transformed into saccharoid + limestone. + </p> + <p> + The actual point of confluence of these two rivers, the Chobe and the + Leeambye, is ill defined, on account of each dividing into several + branches as they inosculate; but when the whole body of water collects + into one bed, it is a goodly sight for one who has spent many years in the + thirsty south. Standing on one bank, even the keen eye of the natives can + not detect whether two large islands, a few miles east of the junction, + are main land or not. During a flight in former years, when the present + chief Sekomi was a child in his mother's arms, the Bamangwato men were + separated from their women, and inveigled on to one of these islands by + the Makalaka chief of Mparia, on pretense of ferrying them across the + Leeambye. They were left to perish after seeing their wives taken + prisoners by these cruel lords of the Leeambye, and Sekomi owed his life + to the compassion of one of the Bayeiye, who, pitying the young chieftain, + enabled his mother to make her escape by night. + </p> + <p> + After spending one night at the Makololo village on Mparia, we left the + Chobe, and, turning round, began to ascend the Leeambye; on the 19th of + November we again reached the town of Sesheke. It stands on the north bank + of the river, and contains a large population of Makalaka, under + Moriantsane, brother-in-law of Sebituane. There are parties of various + tribes here, assembled under their respective head men, but a few Makololo + rule over all. Their sway, though essentially despotic, is considerably + modified by certain customs and laws. One of the Makalaka had speared an + ox belonging to one of the Makololo, and, being unable to extract the + spear, was thereby discovered to be the perpetrator of the deed. His + object had been to get a share of the meat, as Moriantsane is known to be + liberal with any food that comes into his hands. The culprit was bound + hand and foot, and placed in the sun to force him to pay a fine, but he + continued to deny his guilt. His mother, believing in the innocence of her + son, now came forward, with her hoe in hand, and, threatening to cut down + any one who should dare to interfere, untied the cords with which he had + been bound and took him home. This open defiance of authority was not + resented by Moriantsane, but referred to Sekeletu at Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + The following circumstance, which happened here when I was present with + Sekeletu, shows that the simple mode of punishment, by forcing a criminal + to work out a fine, did not strike the Makololo mind until now. + </p> + <p> + A stranger having visited Sesheke for the purpose of barter, was robbed by + one of the Makalaka of most of his goods. The thief, when caught, + confessed the theft, and that he had given the articles to a person who + had removed to a distance. The Makololo were much enraged at the idea of + their good name being compromised by this treatment of a stranger. Their + customary mode of punishing a crime which causes much indignation is to + throw the criminal into the river; but, as this would not restore the lost + property, they were sorely puzzled how to act. The case was referred to + me, and I solved the difficulty by paying for the loss myself, and + sentencing the thief to work out an equivalent with his hoe in a garden. + This system was immediately introduced, and thieves are now sentenced to + raise an amount of corn proportioned to their offenses. Among the + Bakwains, a woman who had stolen from the garden of another was obliged to + part with her own entirely: it became the property of her whose field was + injured by the crime. + </p> + <p> + There is no stated day of rest in any part of this country, except the day + after the appearance of the new moon, and the people then refrain only + from going to their gardens. A curious custom, not to be found among the + Bechuanas, prevails among the black tribes beyond them. They watch most + eagerly for the first glimpse of the new moon, and, when they perceive the + faint outline after the sun has set deep in the west, they utter a loud + shout of "Kua!" and vociferate prayers to it. My men, for instance, called + out, "Let our journey with the white man be prosperous! Let our enemies + perish, and the children of Nake become rich! May he have plenty of meat + on this journey!" etc., etc. + </p> + <p> + I gave many public addresses to the people of Sesheke under the + outspreading camel-thorn-tree, which serves as a shade to the kotla on the + high bank of the river. It was pleasant to see the long lines of men, + women, and children winding along from different quarters of the town, + each party following behind their respective head men. They often amounted + to between five and six hundred souls, and required an exertion of voice + which brought back the complaint for which I had got the uvula excised at + the Cape. They were always very attentive; and Moriantsane, in order, as + he thought, to please me, on one occasion rose up in the middle of the + discourse, and hurled his staff at the heads of some young fellows whom he + saw working with a skin instead of listening. My hearers sometimes put + very sensible questions on the subjects brought before them; at other + times they introduced the most frivolous nonsense immediately after + hearing the most solemn truths. Some begin to pray to Jesus in secret as + soon as they hear of the white man's God, with but little idea of what + they are about; and no doubt are heard by Him who, like a father, pitieth + his children. Others, waking by night, recollect what has been said about + the future world so clearly that they tell next day what a fright they got + by it, and resolve not to listen to the teaching again; and not a few keep + to the determination not to believe, as certain villagers in the south, + who put all their cocks to death because they crowed the words, "Tlang lo + rapeleng"—"Come along to prayers". + </p> + <p> + On recovering partially from a severe attack of fever which remained upon + me ever since our passing the village of Moremi on the Chobe, we made + ready for our departure up the river by sending messages before us to the + villages to prepare food. We took four elephants' tusks, belonging to + Sekeletu, with us, as a means of testing the difference of prices between + the Portuguese, whom we expected to reach, and the white traders from the + south. Moriantsane supplied us well with honey, milk, and meal. The rains + were just commencing in this district; but, though showers sufficient to + lay the dust had fallen, they had no influence whatever on the amount of + water in the river, yet never was there less in any part than three + hundred yards of a deep flowing stream. + </p> + <p> + Our progress up the river was rather slow; this was caused by waiting + opposite different villages for supplies of food. We might have done with + much less than we got; but my Makololo man, Pitsane, knew of the generous + orders of Sekeletu, and was not at all disposed to allow them to remain a + dead letter. The villages of the Banyeti contributed large quantities of + mosibe, a bright red bean yielded by a large tree. The pulp inclosing the + seed is not much thicker than a red wafer, and is the portion used. It + requires the addition of honey to render it at all palatable. + </p> + <p> + To these were added great numbers of the fruit which yields a variety of + the nux vomica, from which we derive that virulent poison strychnia. The + pulp between the nuts is the part eaten, and it is of a pleasant juicy + nature, having a sweet acidulous taste. The fruit itself resembles a large + yellow orange, but the rind is hard, and, with the pips and bark, contains + much of the deadly poison. They evince their noxious qualities by an + intensely bitter taste. The nuts, swallowed inadvertently, cause + considerable pain, but not death; and to avoid this inconvenience, the + people dry the pulp before the fire, in order to be able the more easily + to get rid of the noxious seeds. + </p> + <p> + A much better fruit, called mobola, was also presented to us. This bears, + around a pretty large stone, as much of the fleshy part as the common + date, and it is stripped off the seeds and preserved in bags in a similar + manner to that fruit. Besides sweetness, the mobola has the flavor of + strawberries, with a touch of nauseousness. We carried some of them, dried + as provisions, more than a hundred miles from this spot. + </p> + <p> + The next fruit, named mamosho (mother of morning), is the most delicious + of all. It is about the size of a walnut, and, unlike most of the other + uncultivated fruits, has a seed no larger than that of a date. The fleshy + part is juicy, and somewhat like the cashew-apple, with a pleasant acidity + added. Fruits similar to those which are here found on trees are found on + the plains of the Kalahari, growing on mere herbaceous plants. There are + several other examples of a similar nature. Shrubs, well known as such in + the south, assume the rank of trees as we go to the north; and the change + is quite gradual as our latitude decreases, the gradations being + herbaceous plants, shrubs, bushes, small, then large trees. But it is + questionable if, in the cases of mamosho, mobola, and mawa, the tree and + shrub are identical, though the fruits so closely resemble each other; for + I found both the dwarf and tree in the same latitude. There is also a + difference in the leaves, and they bear at different seasons. + </p> + <p> + The banks of the river were at this time appearing to greater advantage + than before. Many trees were putting on their fresh green leaves, though + they had got no rain, their lighter green contrasting beautifully with the + dark motsouri, or moyela, now covered with pink plums as large as + cherries. The rapids, having comparatively little water in them, rendered + our passage difficult. The canoes must never be allowed to come broadside + on to the stream, for, being flat-bottomed, they would, in that case, be + at once capsized, and every thing in them be lost. The men work admirably, + and are always in good humor; they leap into the water without the least + hesitation, to save the canoe from being caught by eddies or dashed + against the rocks. Many parts were now quite shallow, and it required + great address and power in balancing themselves to keep the vessel free + from rocks, which lay just beneath the surface. We might have got deeper + water in the middle, but the boatmen always keep near the banks, on + account of danger from the hippopotami. But, though we might have had + deeper water farther out, I believe that no part of the rapids is very + deep. The river is spread out more than a mile, and the water flows + rapidly over the rocky bottom. The portions only three hundred yards wide + are very deep, and contain large volumes of flowing water in narrow + compass, which, when spread over the much larger surface at the rapids, + must be shallow. Still, remembering that this was the end of the dry + season, when such rivers as the Orange do not even contain a fifth part of + the water of the Chobe, the difference between the rivers of the north and + south must be sufficiently obvious. + </p> + <p> + The rapids are caused by rocks of dark brown trap, or of hardened + sandstone, stretching across the stream. In some places they form miles of + flat rocky bottom, with islets covered with trees. At the cataracts noted + in the map, the fall is from four to six feet, and, in guiding up the + canoe, the stem goes under the water, and takes in a quantity before it + can attain the higher level. We lost many of our biscuits in the ascent + through this. + </p> + <p> + These rocks are covered with a small, hard aquatic plant, which, when the + surface is exposed, becomes dry and crisp, crackling under the foot as if + it contained much stony matter in its tissue. It probably assists in + disintegrating the rocks; for, in parts so high as not to be much exposed + to the action of the water or the influence of the plant, the rocks are + covered with a thin black glaze. + </p> + <p> + In passing along under the overhanging trees of the banks, we often saw + the pretty turtle-doves sitting peacefully on their nests above the + roaring torrent. An ibis* had perched her home on the end of a stump. Her + loud, harsh scream of "Wa-wa-wa", and the piping of the fish-hawk, are + sounds which can never be forgotten by any one who has sailed on the + rivers north of 20 Deg. south. If we step on shore, the 'Charadrius + caruncula', a species of plover, a most plaguy sort of "public-spirited + individual", follows you, flying overhead, and is most persevering in its + attempts to give fair warning to all the animals within hearing to flee + from the approaching danger. The alarm-note, "tinc-tinc-tinc", of another + variety of the same family ('Pluvianus armatus' of Burchell) has so much + of a metallic ring, that this bird is called "setula-tsipi", or + hammering-iron. It is furnished with a sharp spur on its shoulder, much + like that on the heel of a cock, but scarcely half an inch in length. + Conscious of power, it may be seen chasing the white-necked raven with + great fury, and making even that comparatively large bird call out from + fear. It is this bird which is famed for its friendship with the crocodile + of the Nile by the name 'siksak', and which Mr. St. John actually saw + performing the part of toothpicker to the ugly reptile. They are + frequently seen on the sand-banks with the alligator, and, to one passing + by, often appear as if on that reptile's back; but I never had the good + fortune to witness the operation described not only by St. John and + Geoffrey St. Hilaire, but also by Herodotus. However, that which none of + these authors knew my head boatman, Mashauana, stopped the canoe to tell + us, namely, that a water-turtle which, in trying to ascend a steep bank to + lay her eggs, had toppled on her back, thus enabling us to capture her, + was an infallible omen of good luck for our journey. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The 'Hagidash', Latham; or 'Tantalus capensis' of Lich. +</pre> + <p> + Among the forest-trees which line the banks of the rocky parts of the + Leeambye several new birds were observed. Some are musical, and the songs + are pleasant in contrast with the harsh voice of the little green, + yellow-shouldered parrots of the country. There are also great numbers of + jet-black weavers, with yellowish-brown band on the shoulders. + </p> + <p> + Here we saw, for the first time, a pretty little bird, colored dark blue, + except the wings and tail, which were of a chocolate hue. From the tail + two feathers are prolonged beyond the rest six inches. Also, little birds + colored white and black, of great vivacity, and always in companies of six + or eight together, and various others. From want of books of reference, I + could not decide whether they were actually new to science. + </p> + <p> + Francolins and Guinea-fowl abound along the banks; and on every dead tree + and piece of rock may be seen one or two species of the web-footed + 'Plotus', darter, or snake-bird. They sit most of the day sunning + themselves over the stream, sometimes standing erect with their wings + outstretched; occasionally they may be seen engaged in fishing by diving, + and, as they swim about, their bodies are so much submerged that hardly + any thing appears above the water but their necks. The chief time of + feeding is by night, and, as the sun declines, they may be seen in flocks + flying from their roosting-places to the fishing-grounds. This is a most + difficult bird to catch when disabled. It is thoroughly expert in diving—goes + down so adroitly and comes up again in the most unlikely places, that the + people, though most skillful in the management of the canoes, can rarely + secure them. The rump of the darter is remarkably prolonged, and capable + of being bent, so as to act both as a rudder in swimming, and as a lever + to lift the bird high enough out of the water to give free scope to its + wings. It can rise at will from the water by means of this appendage. + </p> + <p> + The fine fish-hawk, with white head and neck, and reddish-chocolate + colored body, may also frequently be seen perched on the trees, and fish + are often found dead which have fallen victims to its talons. One most + frequently seen in this condition is itself a destroyer of fish. It is a + stout-bodied fish, about fifteen or eighteen inches long, of a light + yellow color, and gayly ornamented with stripes and spots. It has a most + imposing array of sharp, conical teeth outside the lips—objects of + dread to the fisherman, for it can use them effectually. One which we + picked up dead had killed itself by swallowing another fish, which, though + too large for its stomach and throat, could not be disgorged. + </p> + <p> + This fish-hawk generally kills more prey than it can devour. It eats a + portion of the back of the fish, and leaves the rest for the Barotse, who + often had a race across the river when they saw an abandoned morsel lying + on the opposite sand-banks. The hawk is, however, not always so generous, + for, as I myself was a witness on the Zouga, it sometimes plunders the + purse of the pelican. Soaring over head, and seeing this large, stupid + bird fishing beneath, it watches till a fine fish is safe in the pelican's + pouch; then descending, not very quickly, but with considerable noise of + wing, the pelican looks up to see what is the matter, and, as the hawk + comes near, he supposes that he is about to be killed, and roars out + "Murder!" The opening of his mouth enables the hawk to whisk the fish out + of the pouch, upon which the pelican does not fly away, but commences + fishing again, the fright having probably made him forget he had any thing + in his purse. + </p> + <p> + A fish called mosheba, about the size of a minnow, often skims along the + surface for several yards, in order to get out of the way of the canoe. It + uses the pectoral fins, as the flying-fish do, but never makes a clean + flight. It is rather a succession of hops along the surface, made by the + aid of the side fins. It never becomes large. + </p> + <p> + Numbers of iguanos (mpulu) sit sunning themselves on overhanging branches + of the trees, and splash into the water as we approach. They are highly + esteemed as an article of food, the flesh being tender and gelatinous. The + chief boatman, who occupies the stem, has in consequence a light javelin + always at hand to spear them if they are not quickly out of sight. These, + and large alligators gliding in from the banks with a heavy plunge as we + come round a sudden bend of the stream, were the occurrences of every hour + as we sped up the river. + </p> + <p> + The rapids in the part of the river between Katima-molelo and Nameta are + relieved by several reaches of still, deep water, fifteen or twenty miles + long. In these very large herds of hippopotami are seen, and the deep + furrows they make, in ascending the banks to graze during the nights, are + every where apparent. They are guided back to the water by the scent, but + a long continued pouring rain makes it impossible for them to perceive, by + that means, in which direction the river lies, and they are found + bewildered on the land. The hunters take advantage of their helplessness + on these occasions to kill them. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd, for they are almost + always hidden beneath the waters; but as they require to come up every few + minutes to breathe, when there is a constant succession of heads thrown + up, then the herd is supposed to be large. They love a still reach of the + stream, as in the more rapid parts of the channel they are floated down so + quickly that much exertion is necessary to regain the distance lost by + frequently swimming up again: such constant exertion disturbs them in + their nap. They prefer to remain by day in a drowsy, yawning state, and, + though their eyes are open, they take little notice of things at a + distance. The males utter a loud succession of snorting grunts, which may + be heard a mile off. The canoe in which I was, in passing over a wounded + one, elicited a distinct grunting, though the animal lay entirely under + water. + </p> + <p> + The young, when very little, take their stand on the neck of the dam, and + the small head, rising above the large, comes soonest to the surface. The + dam, knowing the more urgent need of her calf, comes more frequently to + the surface when it is in her care. But in the rivers of Londa, where they + are much in danger of being shot, even the hippopotamus gains wit by + experience; for, while those in the Zambesi put up their heads openly to + blow, those referred to keep their noses among water-plants, and breathe + so quietly that one would not dream of their existence in the river except + by footprints on the banks. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 14. + </h2> + <p> + Increasing Beauty of the Country—Mode of spending the Day—The + People and the Falls of Gonye—A Makololo Foray—A second + prevented, and Captives delivered up—Politeness and Liberality of + the People— The Rains—Present of Oxen—The fugitive + Barotse—Sekobinyane's Misgovernment—Bee-eaters and other Birds—Fresh-water + Sponges—Current—Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta—Continued + Kindness—Arrangements for spending the Night during the Journey—Cooking + and Washing—Abundance of animal Life—Different Species of + Birds—Water-fowl—Egyptian Geese—Alligators—Narrow + Escape of one of my Men—Superstitious Feelings respecting the + Alligator—Large Game—The most vulnerable Spot—Gun + Medicine—A Sunday—Birds of Song—Depravity; its Treatment—Wild + Fruits—Green Pigeons—Shoals of Fish—Hippopotami. + </p> + <p> + 30TH OF NOVEMBER, 1853. At Gonye Falls. No rain has fallen here, so it is + excessively hot. The trees have put on their gayest dress, and many + flowers adorn the landscape, yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at + midday and look languid for want of rain. If the country increases as much + in beauty in front as it has done within the last four degrees of + latitude, it will be indeed a lovely land. + </p> + <p> + We all felt great lassitude in traveling. The atmosphere is oppressive + both in cloud and sunshine. The evaporation from the river must be + excessively great, and I feel as if the fluids of the system joined in the + general motion of watery vapor upward, as enormous quantities of water + must be drunk to supply its place. + </p> + <p> + When under way our usual procedure is this: We get up a little before five + in the morning; it is then beginning to dawn. While I am dressing, coffee + is made; and, having filled my pannikin, the remainder is handed to my + companions, who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage. The servants + are busy loading the canoes, while the principal men are sipping the + coffee, and, that being soon over, we embark. The next two hours are the + most pleasant part of the day's sail. The men paddle away most vigorously; + the Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, have large, deeply-developed chests + and shoulders, with indifferent lower extremities. They often engage in + loud scolding of each other in order to relieve the tedium of their work. + About eleven we land, and eat any meat which may have remained from the + previous evening meal, or a biscuit with honey, and drink water. + </p> + <p> + After an hour's rest we again embark and cower under an umbrella. The heat + is oppressive, and, being weak from the last attack of fever, I can not + land and keep the camp supplied with flesh. The men, being quite uncovered + in the sun, perspire profusely, and in the afternoon begin to stop, as if + waiting for the canoes which have been left behind. Sometimes we reach a + sleeping-place two hours before sunset, and, all being troubled with + languor, we gladly remain for the night. Coffee again, and a biscuit, or a + piece of coarse bread made of maize meal, or that of the native corn, make + up the bill of fare for the evening, unless we have been fortunate enough + to kill something, when we boil a potful of flesh. This is done by cutting + it up into long strips and pouring in water till it is covered. When that + is boiled dry, the meat is considered ready. + </p> + <p> + The people at Gonye carry the canoes over the space requisite to avoid the + falls by slinging them on poles tied on diagonally. They place these on + their shoulders, and, setting about the work with good humor, soon + accomplish the task. They are a merry set of mortals; a feeble joke sets + them off in a fit of laughter. Here, as elsewhere, all petitioned for the + magic lantern, and, as it is a good means of conveying instruction, I + willingly complied. + </p> + <p> + The falls of Gonye have not been made by wearing back, like those of + Niagara, but are of a fissure form. For many miles below, the river is + confined in a narrow space of not more than one hundred yards wide. The + water goes boiling along, and gives the idea of great masses of it rolling + over and over, so that even the most expert swimmer would find it + difficult to keep on the surface. Here it is that the river, when in + flood, rises fifty or sixty feet in perpendicular height. The islands + above the falls are covered with foliage as beautiful as can be seen any + where. Viewed from the mass of rock which overhangs the fall, the scenery + was the loveliest I had seen. + </p> + <p> + Nothing worthy of note occurred on our way up to Nameta. There we heard + that a party of the Makololo, headed by Lerimo, had made a foray to the + north and up the Leeba, in the very direction in which we were about to + proceed. Mpololo, the uncle of Sekeletu, is considered the head man of the + Barotse valley; and the perpetrators had his full sanction, because + Masiko, a son of Santuru, the former chief of the Barotse, had fled high + up the Leeambye, and, establishing himself there, had sent men down to the + vicinity of Naliele to draw away the remaining Barotse from their + allegiance. Lerimo's party had taken some of this Masiko's subjects + prisoners, and destroyed several villages of the Balonda, to whom we were + going. This was in direct opposition to the policy of Sekeletu, who wished + to be at peace with these northern tribes; and Pitsane, my head man, was + the bearer of orders to Mpololo to furnish us with presents for the very + chiefs they had attacked. Thus we were to get large pots of clarified + butter and bunches of beads, in confirmation of the message of peace we + were to deliver. + </p> + <p> + When we reached Litofe, we heard that a fresh foray was in contemplation, + but I sent forward orders to disband the party immediately. At + Ma-Sekeletu's town we found the head offender, Mpololo himself, and I gave + him a bit of my mind, to the effect that, as I was going with the full + sanction of Sekeletu, if any harm happened to me in consequence of his + ill-advised expedition, the guilt would rest with him. Ma-Sekeletu, who + was present, heartily approved all I said, and suggested that all the + captives taken by Lerimo should be returned by my hand, to show Masiko + that the guilt of the foray lay not with the superior persons of the + Makololo, but with a mere servant. Her good sense appeared in other + respects besides, and, as this was exactly what my own party had + previously resolved to suggest, we were pleased to hear Mpololo agree to + do what he was advised. He asked me to lay the matter before the + under-chiefs of Naliele, and when we reached that place, on the 9th of + December, I did so in a picho, called expressly for the purpose. Lerimo + was present, and felt rather crestfallen when his exploit was described by + Mohorisi, one of my companions, as one of extreme cowardice, he having + made an attack upon the defenseless villagers of Londa, while, as we had + found on our former visit, a lion had actually killed eight people of + Naliele without his daring to encounter it. The Makololo are cowardly in + respect to animals, but brave against men. Mpololo took all the guilt upon + himself before the people, and delivered up a captive child whom his wife + had in her possession; others followed his example, till we procured the + release of five of the prisoners. Some thought, as Masiko had tried to + take their children by stratagem, they ought to take his by force, as the + two modes suited the genius of each people—the Makalaka delight in + cunning, and the Makololo in fighting; and others thought, if Sekeletu + meant them to be at peace with Masiko, he ought to have told them so. + </p> + <p> + It is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a marauding party with + men of the same tribe as the aggressors, but my people were in good + spirits, and several volunteers even offered to join our ranks. We, + however, adhered strictly to the orders of Sekeletu as to our companions, + and refused all others. + </p> + <p> + The people of every village treated us most liberally, presenting, besides + oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than we could stow away in our canoes. + The cows in this valley are now yielding, as they frequently do, more milk + than the people can use, and both men and women present butter in such + quantity that I shall be able to refresh my men as we move along. + Anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of the fluids of the + body, and acts as clothing in both sun and shade. They always made their + presents gracefully. When an ox was given, the owner would say, "Here is a + little bit of bread for you." This was pleasing, for I had been accustomed + to the Bechuanas presenting a miserable goat, with the pompous + exclamation, "Behold an ox!" The women persisted in giving me copious + supplies of shrill praises, or "lullilooing"; but, though I frequently + told them to modify their "great lords" and "great lions" to more humble + expressions, they so evidently intended to do me honor that I could not + help being pleased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success. + </p> + <p> + The rains began while we were at Naliele; this is much later than usual; + but, though the Barotse valley has been in need of rain, the people never + lack abundance of food. The showers are refreshing, but the air feels hot + and close; the thermometer, however, in a cool hut, stands only at 84 Deg. + The access of the external air to any spot at once raises its temperature + above 90 Deg. A new attack of fever here caused excessive languor; but, as + I am already getting tired of quoting my fevers, and never liked to read + travels myself where much was said about the illnesses of the traveler, I + shall henceforth endeavor to say little about them. + </p> + <p> + We here sent back the canoe of Sekeletu, and got the loan of others from + Mpololo. Eight riding oxen, and seven for slaughter, were, according to + the orders of that chief, also furnished; some were intended for our own + use, and others as presents to the chiefs of the Balonda. Mpololo was + particularly liberal in giving all that Sekeletu ordered, though, as he + feeds on the cattle he has in charge, he might have felt it so much + abstracted from his own perquisites. Mpololo now acts the great man, and + is followed every where by a crowd of toadies, who sing songs in + disparagement of Mpepe, of whom he always lived in fear. While Mpepe was + alive, he too was regaled with the same fulsome adulation, and now they + curse him. They are very foul-tongued; equals, on meeting, often greet + each other with a profusion of oaths, and end the volley with a laugh. + </p> + <p> + In coming up the river to Naliele we met a party of fugitive Barotse + returning to their homes, and, as the circumstance illustrates the social + status of these subjects of the Makololo, I introduce it here. The + villagers in question were the children, or serfs, if we may use the term, + of a young man of the same age and tribe as Sekeletu, who, being of an + irritable temper, went by the nickname of Sekobinyane—a little + slavish thing. His treatment of his servants was so bad that most of them + had fled; and when the Mambari came, and, contrary to the orders of + Sekeletu, purchased slaves, Sekobinyane sold one or two of the Barotse + children of his village. The rest fled immediately to Masiko, and were + gladly received by that Barotse chief as his subjects. + </p> + <p> + When Sekeletu and I first ascended the Leeambye, we met Sekobinyane coming + down, on his way to Linyanti. On being asked the news, he remained silent + about the loss of his village, it being considered a crime among the + Makololo for any one to treat his people so ill as to cause them to run + away from him. He then passed us, and, dreading the vengeance of Sekeletu + for his crime, secretly made his escape from Linyanti to Lake Ngami. He + was sent for, however, and the chief at the lake delivered him up, on + Sekeletu declaring that he had no intention of punishing him otherwise + than by scolding. He did not even do that, as Sekobinyane was evidently + terrified enough, and also became ill through fear. + </p> + <p> + The fugitive villagers remained only a few weeks with their new master + Masiko, and then fled back again, and were received as if they had done + nothing wrong. All united in abusing the conduct of Sekobinyane, and no + one condemned the fugitives; and the cattle, the use of which they had + previously enjoyed, never having been removed from their village, they + re-established themselves with apparent gladness. + </p> + <p> + This incident may give some idea of the serfdom of the subject tribes, + and, except that they are sometimes punished for running away and other + offenses, I can add nothing more by way of showing the true nature of this + form of servitude. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Naliele, amid abundance of good wishes for the success of our + expedition, and hopes that we might return accompanied with white traders, + we began again our ascent of the river. It was now beginning to rise, + though the rains had but just commenced in the valley. The banks are low, + but cleanly cut, and seldom sloping. At low water they are from four to + eight feet high, and make the river always assume very much the aspect of + a canal. They are in some parts of whitish, tenacious clay, with strata of + black clay intermixed, and black loam in sand, or pure sand stratified. As + the river rises it is always wearing to one side or the other, and is + known to have cut across from one bend to another, and to form new + channels. As we coast along the shore, pieces which are undermined often + fall in with a splash like that caused by the plunge of an alligator, and + endanger the canoe. + </p> + <p> + These perpendicular banks afford building-places to a pretty bee-eater,* + which loves to breed in society. The face of the sand-bank is perforated + with hundreds of holes leading to their nests, each of which is about a + foot apart from the other; and as we pass they pour out of their + hiding-places, and float overhead. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * 'Merops apiaster' and 'M. bullockoides' (Smith). +</pre> + <p> + A speckled kingfisher is seen nearly every hundred yards, which builds in + similar spots, and attracts the attention of herd-boys, who dig out its + nest for the sake of the young. This, and a most lovely little blue and + orange kingfisher, are seen every where along the banks, dashing down like + a shot into the water for their prey. A third, seen more rarely, is as + large as a pigeon, and is of a slaty color. + </p> + <p> + Another inhabitant of the banks is the sand-martin, which also likes + company in the work of raising a family. They never leave this part of the + country. One may see them preening themselves in the very depth of winter, + while the swallows, of which we shall yet speak, take winter trips. I saw + sand-martins at the Orange River during a period of winter frost; it is, + therefore, probable that they do not migrate even from thence. + </p> + <p> + Around the reeds, which in some parts line the banks, we see fresh-water + sponges. They usually encircle the stalk, and are hard and brittle, + presenting numbers of small round grains near their circumference. + </p> + <p> + The river was running at the rate of five miles an hour, and carried + bunches of reed and decaying vegetable matter on its surface; yet the + water was not discolored. It had, however, a slightly yellowish-green + tinge, somewhat deeper than its natural color. This arose from the + quantity of sand carried by the rising flood from sand-banks, which are + annually shifted from one spot to another, and from the pieces falling in + as the banks are worn; for when the water is allowed to stand in a glass, + a few seconds suffice for its deposit at the bottom. This is considered an + unhealthy period. When waiting, on one occasion, for the other canoes to + come up, I felt no inclination to leave the one I was in; but my head + boatman, Mashauana, told me never to remain on board while so much + vegetable matter was floating down the stream. + </p> + <p> + 17TH DECEMBER. At Libonta. We were detained for days together collecting + contributions of fat and butter, according to the orders of Sekeletu, as + presents to the Balonda chiefs. Much fever prevailed, and ophthalmia was + rife, as is generally the case before the rains begin. Some of my own men + required my assistance, as well as the people of Libonta. A lion had done + a good deal of mischief here, and when the people went to attack it two + men were badly wounded; one of them had his thigh-bone quite broken, + showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws. The inflammation + produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to one of them. + </p> + <p> + Here we demanded the remainder of the captives, and got our number + increased to nineteen. They consisted of women and children, and one young + man of twenty. One of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as we + embarked. The Makololo under-chiefs often act in direct opposition to the + will of the head chief, trusting to circumstances and brazenfacedness to + screen themselves from his open displeasure; and as he does not always + find it convenient to notice faults, they often go to considerable lengths + in wrong-doing. + </p> + <p> + Libonta is the last town of the Makololo; so, when we parted from it, we + had only a few cattle-stations and outlying hamlets in front, and then an + uninhabited border country till we came to Londa or Lunda. Libonta is + situated on a mound like the rest of the villages in the Barotse valley, + but here the tree-covered sides of the valley begin to approach nearer the + river. The village itself belongs to two of the chief wives of Sebituane, + who furnished us with an ox and abundance of other food. The same kindness + was manifested by all who could afford to give any thing; and as I glance + over their deeds of generosity recorded in my journal, my heart glows with + gratitude to them, and I hope and pray that God may spare me to make them + some return. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving the villages entirely, we may glance at our way of spending + the nights. As soon as we land, some of the men cut a little grass for my + bed, while Mashauana plants the poles of the little tent. These are used + by day for carrying burdens, for the Barotse fashion is exactly like that + of the natives of India, only the burden is fastened near the ends of the + pole, and not suspended by long cords. The bed is made, and boxes ranged + on each side of it, and then the tent pitched over all. Four or five feet + in front of my tent is placed the principal or kotla fire, the wood for + which must be collected by the man who occupies the post of herald, and + takes as his perquisite the heads of all the oxen slaughtered, and of all + the game too. Each person knows the station he is to occupy, in reference + to the post of honor at the fire in front of the door of the tent. The two + Makololo occupy my right and left, both in eating and sleeping, as long as + the journey lasts. But Mashauana, my head boatman, makes his bed at the + door of the tent as soon as I retire. The rest, divided into small + companies according to their tribes, make sheds all round the fire, + leaving a horseshoe-shaped space in front sufficient for the cattle to + stand in. The fire gives confidence to the oxen, so the men are always + careful to keep them in sight of it. The sheds are formed by planting two + stout forked poles in an inclined direction, and placing another over + these in a horizontal position. A number of branches are then stuck in the + ground in the direction to which the poles are inclined, the twigs drawn + down to the horizontal pole and tied with strips of bark. Long grass is + then laid over the branches in sufficient quantity to draw off the rain, + and we have sheds open to the fire in front, but secure from beasts + behind. In less than an hour we were usually all under cover. We never + lacked abundance of grass during the whole journey. It is a picturesque + sight at night, when the clear bright moon of these climates glances on + the sleeping forms around, to look out upon the attitudes of profound + repose both men and beasts assume. There being no danger from wild animals + in such a night, the fires are allowed almost to go out; and as there is + no fear of hungry dogs coming over sleepers and devouring the food, or + quietly eating up the poor fellows' blankets, which at best were but + greasy skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the picture was + one of perfect peace. + </p> + <p> + The cooking is usually done in the natives' own style, and, as they + carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands before handling food, it is + by no means despicable. Sometimes alterations are made at my suggestion, + and then they believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion. + The cook always comes in for something left in the pot, so all are eager + to obtain the office. + </p> + <p> + I taught several of them to wash my shirts, and they did it well, though + their teacher had never been taught that work himself. Frequent changes of + linen and sunning of my blanket kept me more comfortable than might have + been anticipated, and I feel certain that the lessons of cleanliness + rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood helped to maintain that + respect which these people entertain for European ways. It is questionable + if a descent to barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savages. + </p> + <p> + When quite beyond the inhabited parts, we found the country abounding in + animal life of every form. There are upward of thirty species of birds on + the river itself. Hundreds of the 'Ibis religiosa' come down the Leeambye + with the rising water, as they do on the Nile; then large white pelicans, + in flocks of three hundred at a time, following each other in long + extending line, rising and falling as they fly so regularly all along as + to look like an extended coil of birds; clouds of a black shell-eating + bird, called linongolo ('Anastomus lamelligerus'); also plovers, snipes, + curlews, and herons without number. + </p> + <p> + There are, besides the more common, some strange varieties. The pretty + white 'ardetta' is seen in flocks, settling on the backs of large herds of + buffaloes, and following them on the wing when they run; while the kala + ('Textor erythrorhynchus') is a better horseman, for it sits on the + withers when the animal is at full speed. + </p> + <p> + Then those strange birds, the scissor-bills, with snow-white breast, + jet-black coat, and red beak, sitting by day on the sand-banks, the very + picture of comfort and repose. Their nests are only little hollows made on + these same sand-banks, without any attempt of concealment; they watch them + closely, and frighten away the marabou and crows from their eggs by + feigned attacks at their heads. When man approaches their nests, they + change their tactics, and, like the lapwing and ostrich, let one wing drop + and make one leg limp, as if lame. The upper mandible being so much + shorter than the lower, the young are more helpless than the stork in the + fable with the flat dishes, and must have every thing conveyed into the + mouth by the parents till they are able to provide for themselves. The + lower mandible, as thin as a paper-knife, is put into the water while the + bird skims along the surface, and scoops up any little insects it meets. + It has great length of wing, and can continue its flight with perfect + ease, the wings acting, though kept above the level of the body. The + wonder is, how this plowing of the surface of the water can be so well + performed as to yield a meal, for it is usually done in the dark. Like + most aquatic feeders, they work by night, when insects and fishes rise to + the surface. They have great affection for their young, its amount being + increased in proportion to the helplessness of the offspring. + </p> + <p> + There are also numbers of spoonbills, nearly white in plumage; the + beautiful, stately flamingo; the Numidian crane, or demoiselle, some of + which, tamed at Government House, Cape Town, struck every one as most + graceful ornaments to a noble mansion, as they perched on its pillars. + There are two cranes besides—one light blue, the other also light + blue, but with a white neck; and gulls ('Procellaria') of different sizes + abound. + </p> + <p> + One pretty little wader, an avoset, appears as if standing on stilts, its + legs are so long; and its bill seems bent the wrong way, or upward. It is + constantly seen wading in the shallows, digging up little slippery + insects, the peculiar form of the bill enabling it to work them easily out + of the sand. When feeding, it puts its head under the water to seize the + insect at the bottom, then lifts it up quickly, making a rapid gobbling, + as if swallowing a wriggling worm. + </p> + <p> + The 'Parra Africana' runs about on the surface, as if walking on water, + catching insects. It too has long, thin legs, and extremely long toes, for + the purpose of enabling it to stand on the floating lotus-leaves and other + aquatic plants. When it stands on a lotus-leaf five inches in diameter, + the spread of the toes, acting on the principle of snow-shoes, occupies + all the surface, and it never sinks, though it obtains a livelihood, not + by swimming or flying, but by walking on the water. + </p> + <p> + Water-birds, whose prey or food requires a certain aim or action in one + direction, have bills quite straight in form, as the heron and snipe; + while those which are intended to come in contact with hard substances, as + breaking shells, have the bills gently curved, in order that the shock may + not be communicated to the brain. + </p> + <p> + The Barotse valley contains great numbers of large black geese.* They may + be seen every where walking slowly about, feeding. They have a strong + black spur on the shoulder, like the armed plover, and as strong as that + on the heel of a cock, but are never seen to use them, except in defense + of their young. They choose ant-hills for their nests, and in the time of + laying the Barotse consume vast quantities of their eggs. There are also + two varieties of geese, of somewhat smaller size, but better eating. One + of these, the Egyptian goose, or Vulpanser, can not rise from the water, + and during the floods of the river great numbers are killed by being + pursued in canoes. The third is furnished with a peculiar knob on the + beak. These, with myriads of ducks of three varieties, abound every where + on the Leeambye. On one occasion the canoe neared a bank on which a large + flock was sitting. Two shots furnished our whole party with a supper, for + we picked up seventeen ducks and a goose. No wonder the Barotse always + look back to this fruitful valley as the Israelites did to the flesh-pots + of Egypt. The poorest persons are so well supplied with food from their + gardens, fruits from the forest trees, and fish from the river, that their + children, when taken into the service of the Makololo, where they have + only one large meal a day, become quite emaciated, and pine for a return + to their parents. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * 'Anser leucagaster' and 'melanogaster'. +</pre> + <p> + Part of our company marched along the banks with the oxen, and part went + in the canoes, but our pace was regulated by the speed of the men on + shore. Their course was rather difficult, on account of the numbers of + departing and re-entering branches of the Leeambye, which they had to + avoid or wait at till we ferried them over. The number of alligators is + prodigious, and in this river they are more savage than in some others. + Many children are carried off annually at Sesheke and other towns; for, + notwithstanding the danger, when they go down for water they almost always + must play a while. This reptile is said by the natives to strike the + victim with its tail, then drag him in and drown him. When lying in the + water watching for prey, the body never appears. Many calves are lost + also, and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at Sesheke + without some loss. I never could avoid shuddering on seeing my men + swimming across these branches, after one of them had been caught by the + thigh and taken below. He, however, retained, as nearly all of them in the + most trying circumstances do, his full presence of mind, and, having a + small, square, ragged-edged javelin with him, when dragged to the bottom + gave the alligator a stab behind the shoulder. The alligator, writhing in + pain, left him, and he came out with the deep marks of the reptile's teeth + on his thigh. Here the people have no antipathy to persons who have met + with such an adventure, but, in the Bamangwato and Bakwain tribes, if a + man is either bitten or even has had water splashed over him by the + reptile's tail, he is expelled his tribe. When on the Zouga we saw one of + the Bamangwato living among the Bayeiye, who had the misfortune to have + been bitten and driven out of his tribe in consequence. Fearing that I + would regard him with the same disgust which his countrymen profess to + feel, he would not tell me the cause of his exile, but the Bayeiye + informed me of it, and the scars of the teeth were visible on his thigh. + If the Bakwains happened to go near an alligator they would spit on the + ground, and indicate its presence by saying "Boleo ki bo"—"There is + sin". They imagine the mere sight of it would give inflammation of the + eyes; and though they eat the zebra without hesitation, yet if one bites a + man he is expelled the tribe, and obliged to take his wife and family away + to the Kalahari. These curious relics of the animal-worship of former + times scarcely exist among the Makololo. Sebituane acted on the principle, + "Whatever is food for men is food for me;" so no man is here considered + unclean. The Barotse appear inclined to pray to alligators and eat them + too, for when I wounded a water-antelope, called mochose, it took to the + water; when near the other side of the river an alligator appeared at its + tail, and then both sank together. Mashauana, who was nearer to it than I, + told me that, "though he had called to it to let his meat alone, it + refused to listen." One day we passed some Barotse lads who had speared an + alligator, and were waiting in expectation of its floating soon after. The + meat has a strong musky odor, not at all inviting for any one except the + very hungry. + </p> + <p> + When we had gone thirty or forty miles above Libonta we sent eleven of our + captives to the west, to the chief called Makoma, with an explanatory + message. This caused some delay; but as we were loaded with presents of + food from the Makololo, and the wild animals were in enormous herds, we + fared sumptuously. It was grievous, however, to shoot the lovely + creatures, they were so tame. With but little skill in stalking, one could + easily get within fifty or sixty yards of them. There I lay, looking at + the graceful forms and motions of beautiful pokus,* leches, and other + antelopes, often till my men, wondering what was the matter, came up to + see, and frightened them away. If we had been starving, I could have + slaughtered them with as little hesitation as I should cut off a patient's + leg; but I felt a doubt, and the antelopes got the benefit of it. Have + they a guardian spirit over them? I have repeatedly observed, when I + approached a herd lying beyond an ant-hill with a tree on it, and viewed + them with the greatest caution, they very soon showed symptoms of + uneasiness. They did not sniff danger in the wind, for I was to leeward of + them; but the almost invariable apprehension of danger which arose, while + unconscious of the direction in which it lay, made me wonder whether each + had what the ancient physicians thought we all possessed, an archon, or + presiding spirit. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I propose to name this new species 'Antilope Vardonii', + after the African traveler, Major Vardon. +</pre> + <p> + If we could ascertain the most fatal spot in an animal, we could dispatch + it with the least possible amount of suffering; but as that is probably + the part to which the greatest amount of nervous influence is directed at + the moment of receiving the shot, if we can not be sure of the heart or + brain, we are never certain of speedy death. Antelopes, formed for a + partially amphibious existence, and other animals of that class, are much + more tenacious of life than those which are purely terrestrial. Most + antelopes, when in distress or pursued, make for the water. If hunted, + they always do. A leche shot right through the body, and no limb-bone + broken, is almost sure to get away, while a zebra, with a wound of no + greater severity, will probably drop down dead. I have seen a rhinoceros, + while standing apparently chewing the cud, drop down dead from a shot in + the stomach, while others shot through one lung and the stomach go off as + if little hurt. But if one should crawl up silently to within twenty yards + either of the white or black rhinoceros, throwing up a pinch of dust every + now and then, to find out that the anxiety to keep the body concealed by + the bushes has not led him to the windward side, then sit down, rest the + elbow on the knees, and aim, slanting a little upward, at a dark spot + behind the shoulders, it falls stone dead. + </p> + <p> + To show that a shock on the part of the system to which much nervous force + is at the time directed will destroy life, it may be mentioned that an + eland, when hunted, can be dispatched by a wound which does little more + than injure the muscular system; its whole nervous force is then imbuing + the organs of motion; and a giraffe, when pressed hard by a good horse + only two or three hundred yards, has been known to drop down dead, without + any wound being inflicted at all. A full gallop by an eland or giraffe + quite dissipates its power, and the hunters, aware of this, always try to + press them at once to it, knowing that they have but a short space to run + before the animals are in their power. In doing this, the old sportsmen + are careful not to go too close to the giraffe's tail, for this animal can + swing his hind foot round in a way which would leave little to choose + between a kick with it and a clap from the arm of a windmill. + </p> + <p> + When the nervous force is entire, terrible wounds may be inflicted without + killing; a tsessebe having been shot through the neck while quietly + feeding, we went to him, and one of the men cut his throat deep enough to + bleed him largely. He started up after this and ran more than a mile, and + would have got clear off had not a dog brought him to bay under a tree, + where we found him standing. + </p> + <p> + My men, having never had fire-arms in their hands before, found it so + difficult to hold the musket steady at the flash of fire in the pan, that + they naturally expected me to furnish them with "gun medicine", without + which, it is almost universally believed, no one can shoot straight. Great + expectations had been formed when I arrived among the Makololo on this + subject; but, having invariably declined to deceive them, as some for + their own profit have done, my men now supposed that I would at last + consent, and thereby relieve myself from the hard work of hunting by + employing them after due medication. This I was most willing to do, if I + could have done it honestly; for, having but little of the hunting + 'furore' in my composition, I always preferred eating the game to killing + it. Sulphur is the remedy most admired, and I remember Sechele giving a + large price for a very small bit. He also gave some elephants' tusks, + worth 30 Pounds, for another medicine which was to make him invulnerable + to musket balls. As I uniformly recommended that these things should be + tested by experiment, a calf was anointed with the charm and tied to a + tree. It proved decisive, and Sechele remarked it was "pleasanter to be + deceived than undeceived." I offered sulphur for the same purpose, but + that was declined, even though a person came to the town afterward and + rubbed his hands with a little before a successful trial of shooting at a + mark. + </p> + <p> + I explained to my men the nature of a gun, and tried to teach them, but + they would soon have expended all the ammunition in my possession. I was + thus obliged to do all the shooting myself ever afterward. Their inability + was rather a misfortune; for, in consequence of working too soon after + having been bitten by the lion, the bone of my left arm had not united + well. Continual hard manual labor, and some falls from ox-back, lengthened + the ligament by which the ends of the bones were united, and a false joint + was the consequence. The limb has never been painful, as those of my + companions on the day of the rencounter with the lion have been, but, + there being a joint too many, I could not steady the rifle, and was always + obliged to shoot with the piece resting on the left shoulder. I wanted + steadiness of aim, and it generally happened that the more hungry the + party became, the more frequently I missed the animals. + </p> + <p> + We spent a Sunday on our way up to the confluence of the Leeba and + Leeambye. Rains had fallen here before we came, and the woods had put on + their gayest hue. Flowers of great beauty and curious forms grow every + where; they are unlike those in the south, and so are the trees. Many of + the forest-tree leaves are palmated and largely developed; the trunks are + covered with lichens, and the abundance of ferns which appear in the woods + shows we are now in a more humid climate than any to the south of the + Barotse valley. The ground begins to swarm with insect life; and in the + cool, pleasant mornings the welkin rings with the singing of birds, which + is not so delightful as the notes of birds at home, because I have not + been familiar with them from infancy. The notes here, however, strike the + mind by their loudness and variety, as the wellings forth from joyous + hearts of praise to Him who fills them with overflowing gladness. All of + us rise early to enjoy the luscious balmy air of the morning. We then have + worship; but, amid all the beauty and loveliness with which we are + surrounded, there is still a feeling of want in the soul in viewing one's + poor companions, and hearing bitter, impure words jarring on the ear in + the perfection of the scenes of Nature, and a longing that both their + hearts and ours might be brought into harmony with the Great Father of + Spirits. I pointed out, in, as usual, the simplest words I could employ, + the remedy which God has presented to us, in the inexpressibly precious + gift of His own Son, on whom the Lord "laid the iniquity of us all." The + great difficulty in dealing with these people is to make the subject + plain. The minds of the auditors can not be understood by one who has not + mingled much with them. They readily pray for the forgiveness of sins, and + then sin again; confess the evil of it, and there the matter ends. + </p> + <p> + I shall not often advert to their depravity. My practice has always been + to apply the remedy with all possible earnestness, but never allow my own + mind to dwell on the dark shades of men's characters. I have never been + able to draw pictures of guilt, as if that could awaken Christian + sympathy. The evil is there. But all around in this fair creation are + scenes of beauty, and to turn from these to ponder on deeds of sin can not + promote a healthy state of the faculties. I attribute much of the bodily + health I enjoy to following the plan adopted by most physicians, who, + while engaged in active, laborious efforts to assist the needy, at the + same time follow the delightful studies of some department of natural + history. The human misery and sin we endeavor to alleviate and cure may be + likened to the sickness and impurity of some of the back slums of great + cities. One contents himself by ministering to the sick and trying to + remove the causes, without remaining longer in the filth than is necessary + for his work; another, equally anxious for the public good, stirs up every + cesspool, that he may describe its reeking vapors, and, by long contact + with impurities, becomes himself infected, sickens, and dies. + </p> + <p> + The men went about during the day, and brought back wild fruits of several + varieties, which I had not hitherto seen. One, called mogametsa, is a bean + with a little pulp round it, which tastes like sponge-cake; another, named + mawa, grows abundantly on a low bush. There are many berries and edible + bulbs almost every where. The mamosho or moshomosho, and milo (a medlar), + were to be found near our encampment. These are both good, if indeed one + can be a fair judge who felt quite disposed to pass a favorable verdict on + every fruit which had the property of being eatable at all. Many kinds are + better than our crab-apple or sloe, and, had they the care and culture + these have enjoyed, might take high rank among the fruits of the world. + All that the Africans have thought of has been present gratification; and + now, as I sometimes deposit date-seeds in the soil, and tell them I have + no hope whatever of seeing the fruit, it seems to them as the act of the + South Sea Islanders appears to us, when they planted in their gardens iron + nails received from Captain Cook. + </p> + <p> + There are many fruits and berries in the forests, the uses of which are + unknown to my companions. Great numbers of a kind of palm I have never met + with before were seen growing at and below the confluence of the Loeti and + Leeambye; the seed probably came down the former river. It is nearly as + tall as the palmyra. The fruit is larger than of that species; it is about + four inches long, and has a soft yellow pulp round the kernel or seed; + when ripe, it is fluid and stringy, like the wild mango, and not very + pleasant to eat. + </p> + <p> + Before we came to the junction of the Leeba and Leeambye we found the + banks twenty feet high, and composed of marly sandstone. They are covered + with trees, and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants. I suspect the + fly has some connection with this animal, and the Portuguese in the + district of Tete must think so too, for they call it the 'Musca da + elephant' (the elephant fly). + </p> + <p> + The water of inundation covers even these lofty banks, but does not stand + long upon them; hence the crop of trees. Where it remains for any length + of time, trees can not live. On the right bank, or that in which the Loeti + flows, there is an extensive flat country called Manga, which, though + covered with grass, is destitute in a great measure of trees. + </p> + <p> + Flocks of green pigeons rose from the trees as we passed along the banks, + and the notes of many birds told that we were now among strangers of the + feathered tribe. The beautiful trogon, with bright scarlet breast and + black back, uttered a most peculiar note, similar to that we read of as + having once been emitted by Memnon, and likened to the tuning of a lyre. + The boatmen answered it by calling "Nama, nama!"—meat, meat—as + if they thought that a repetition of the note would be a good omen for our + success in hunting. Many more interesting birds were met; but I could make + no collection, as I was proceeding on the plan of having as little luggage + as possible, so as not to excite the cupidity of those through whose + country we intended to pass. + </p> + <p> + Vast shoals of fish come down the Leeambye with the rising waters, as we + observed they also do in the Zouga. They are probably induced to make this + migration by the increased rapidity of the current dislodging them from + their old pasture-grounds higher up the river. Insects constitute but a + small portion of the food of many fish. Fine vegetable matter, like + slender mosses, growing on the bottom, is devoured greedily; and as the + fishes are dislodged from the main stream by the force of the current, and + find abundant pasture on the flooded plains, the whole community becomes + disturbed and wanders. + </p> + <p> + The mosala ('Clarias Capensis' and 'Glanis siluris'), the mullet ('Mugil + Africanus'), and other fishes, spread over the Barotse valley in such + numbers that when the waters retire all the people are employed in cutting + them up and drying them in the sun. The supply exceeds the demand, and the + land in numerous places is said to emit a most offensive smell. Wherever + you see the Zambesi in the centre of the country, it is remarkable for the + abundance of animal life in and upon its waters, and on the adjacent + banks. + </p> + <p> + We passed great numbers of hippopotami. They are very numerous in the + parts of the river where they are never hunted. The males appear of a dark + color, the females of yellowish brown. There is not such a complete + separation of the sexes among them as among elephants. They spend most of + their time in the water, lolling about in a listless, dreamy manner. When + they come out of the river by night, they crop off the soft succulent + grasses very neatly. When they blow, they puff up the water about three + feet high. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 15. + </h2> + <p> + Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives— + Navigation of the Leeambye—Capabilities of this District—The + Leeba—Flowers and Bees—Buffalo-hunt—Field for a Botanist—Young + Alligators; their savage Nature—Suspicion of the Balonda—Sekelenke's + Present—A Man and his two Wives—Hunters—Message from + Manenko, a female Chief—Mambari Traders—A Dream—Sheakondo + and his People—Teeth-filing—Desire for Butter—Interview + with Nyamoana, another female Chief—Court Etiquette—Hair + versus Wool—Increase of Superstition—Arrival of Manenko; her + Appearance and Husband—Mode of Salutation—Anklets—Embassy, + with a Present from Masiko—Roast Beef—Manioc—Magic + Lantern—Manenko an accomplished Scold: compels us to wait—Unsuccessful + Zebra-hunt. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th of December we were at the confluence of the Leeba and + Leeambye (lat. 14d 10' 52" S., long. 23d 35' 40" E.). Masiko, the Barotse + chief, for whom we had some captives, lived nearly due east of this point. + They were two little boys, a little girl, a young man, and two middle-aged + women. One of these was a member of a Babimpe tribe, who knock out both + upper and lower front teeth as a distinction. As we had been informed by + the captives on the previous Sunday that Masiko was in the habit of + seizing all orphans, and those who have no powerful friend in the tribe + whose protection they can claim, and selling them for clothing to the + Mambari, we thought the objection of the women to go first to his town + before seeing their friends quite reasonable, and resolved to send a party + of our own people to see them safely among their relatives. I told the + captive young man to inform Masiko that he was very unlike his father + Santuru, who had refused to sell his people to Mambari. He will probably + be afraid to deliver such a message himself, but it is meant for his + people, and they will circulate it pretty widely, and Masiko may yet feel + a little pressure from without. We sent Mosantu, a Batoka man, and his + companions, with the captives. The Barotse whom we had were unwilling to + go to Masiko, since they owe him allegiance as the son of Santuru, and + while they continue with the Makololo are considered rebels. The message + by Mosantu was, that "I was sorry to find that Santuru had not borne a + wiser son. Santuru loved to govern men, but Masiko wanted to govern wild + beasts only, as he sold his people to the Mambari;" adding an explanation + of the return of the captives, and an injunction to him to live in peace, + and prevent his people kidnapping the children and canoes of the Makololo, + as a continuance in these deeds would lead to war, which I wished to + prevent. He was also instructed to say, if Masiko wanted fuller + explanation of my views, he must send a sensible man to talk with me at + the first town of the Balonda, to which I was about to proceed. + </p> + <p> + We ferried Mosantu over to the left bank of the Leeba. The journey + required five days, but it could not have been at a quicker rate than ten + or twelve miles per day; the children were between seven and eight years + of age, and unable to walk fast in a hot sun. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Mosantu to pursue his course, we shall take but one glance down + the river, which we are now about to leave, for it comes at this point + from the eastward, and our course is to be directed to the northwest, as + we mean to go to Loanda in Angola. From the confluence, where we now are, + down to Mosioatunya, there are many long reaches, where a vessel equal to + the Thames steamers plying between the bridges could run as freely as they + do on the Thames. It is often, even here, as broad as that river at London + Bridge, but, without accurate measurement of the depth, one could not say + which contained most water. There are, however, many and serious obstacles + to a continued navigation for hundreds of miles at a stretch. About ten + miles below the confluence of the Loeti, for instance, there are many + large sand-banks in the stream; then you have a hundred miles to the River + Simah, where a Thames steamer could ply at all times of the year; but, + again, the space between Simah and Katima-molelo has five or six rapids + with cataracts, one of which, Gonye, could not be passed at any time + without portage. Between these rapids there are reaches of still, deep + water, of several miles in length. Beyond Katima-molelo to the confluence + of the Chobe you have nearly a hundred miles again, of a river capable of + being navigated in the same way as in the Barotse valley. + </p> + <p> + Now I do not say that this part of the river presents a very inviting + prospect for extemporaneous European enterprise; but when we have a + pathway which requires only the formation of portages to make it equal to + our canals for hundreds of miles, where the philosophers supposed there + was naught but an extensive sandy desert, we must confess that the future + partakes at least of the elements of hope. My deliberate conviction was + and is that the part of the country indicated is as capable of supporting + millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands. The grass of the + Barotse valley, for instance, is such a densely-matted mass that, when + "laid", the stalks bear each other up, so that one feels as if walking on + the sheaves of a hay-stack, and the leches nestle under it to bring forth + their young. The soil which produces this, if placed under the plow, + instead of being mere pasturage, would yield grain sufficient to feed vast + multitudes. + </p> + <p> + We now began to ascend the Leeba. The water is black in color as compared + with the main stream, which here assumes the name of Kabompo. The Leeba + flows placidly, and, unlike the parent river, receives numbers of little + rivulets from both sides. It winds slowly through the most charming + meadows, each of which has either a soft, sedgy centre, large pond, or + trickling rill down the middle. The trees are now covered with a profusion + of the freshest foliage, and seem planted in groups of such pleasant, + graceful outline that art could give no additional charm. The grass, which + had been burned off and was growing again after the rains, was short and + green, and all the scenery so like that of a carefully-tended gentleman's + park, that one is scarcely reminded that the surrounding region is in the + hands of simple nature alone. I suspect that the level meadows are + inundated annually, for the spots on which the trees stand are elevated + three or four feet above them, and these elevations, being of different + shapes, give the strange variety of outline of the park-like woods. + Numbers of a fresh-water shell are scattered all over these valleys. The + elevations, as I have observed elsewhere, are of a soft, sandy soil, and + the meadows of black, rich alluvial loam. There are many beautiful + flowers, and many bees to sip their nectar. We found plenty of honey in + the woods, and saw the stages on which the Balonda dry their meat, when + they come down to hunt and gather the produce of the wild hives. In one + part we came upon groups of lofty trees as straight as masts, with + festoons of orchilla-weed hanging from the branches. This, which is used + as a dye-stuff, is found nowhere in the dry country to the south. It + prefers the humid climate near the west coast. + </p> + <p> + A large buffalo was wounded, and ran into the thickest part of the forest, + bleeding profusely. The young men went on his trail; and, though the + vegetation was so dense that no one could have run more than a few yards, + most of them went along quite carelessly, picking and eating a fruit of + the melon family called Mponko. When the animal heard them approach he + always fled, shifting his stand and doubling on his course in the most + cunning manner. In other cases I have known them to turn back to a point a + few yards from their own trail, and then lie down in a hollow waiting for + the hunter to come up. Though a heavy, lumbering-looking animal, his + charge is then rapid and terrific. More accidents happen by the buffalo + and the black rhinoceros than by the lion. Though all are aware of the + mischievous nature of the buffalo when wounded, our young men went after + him quite carelessly. They never lose their presence of mind, but, as a + buffalo charges back in a forest, dart dexterously out of his way behind a + tree, and, wheeling round, stab him as he passes. + </p> + <p> + A tree in flower brought the pleasant fragrance of hawthorn hedges back to + memory; its leaves, flowers, perfumes, and fruit resembled those of the + hawthorn, only the flowers were as large as dog-roses, and the "haws" like + boys' marbles. Here the flowers smell sweetly, while few in the south emit + any scent at all, or only a nauseous odor. A botanist would find a rich + harvest on the banks of the Leeba. This would be his best season, for the + flowers all run rapidly to seed, and then insects of every shape spring + into existence to devour them. The climbing plants display great vigor of + growth, being not only thick in the trunk, but also at the very point, in + the manner of quickly-growing asparagus. The maroro or malolo now appears, + and is abundant in many parts between this and Angola. It is a small bush + with a yellow fruit, and in its appearance a dwarf "anona". The taste is + sweet, and the fruit is wholesome: it is full of seeds, like the + custard-apple. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th we slept at a spot on the right bank from which had just + emerged two broods of alligators. We had seen many young ones as we came + up, so this seems to be their time of coming forth from the nests, for we + saw them sunning themselves on sand-banks in company with the old ones. We + made our fire in one of the deserted nests, which were strewed all over + with the broken shells. At the Zouga we saw sixty eggs taken out of one + such nest alone. They are about the size of those of a goose, only the + eggs of the alligator are of the same diameter at both ends, and the white + shell is partially elastic, from having a strong internal membrane and but + little lime in its composition. The distance from the water was about ten + feet, and there were evidences of the same place having been used for a + similar purpose in former years. A broad path led up from the water to the + nest, and the dam, it was said by my companions, after depositing the + eggs, covers them up, and returns afterward to assist the young out of the + place of confinement and out of the egg. She leads them to the edge of the + water, and then leaves them to catch small fish for themselves. Assistance + to come forth seems necessary, for here, besides the tough membrane of the + shell, they had four inches of earth upon them; but they do not require + immediate aid for food, because they all retain a portion of yolk, equal + to that of a hen's egg, in a membrane in the abdomen, as a stock of + nutriment, while only beginning independent existence by catching fish. + Fish is the principal food of both small and large, and they are much + assisted in catching them by their broad, scaly tails. Sometimes an + alligator, viewing a man in the water from the opposite bank, rushes + across the stream with wonderful agility, as is seen by the high ripple he + makes on the surface caused by his rapid motion at the bottom; but in + general they act by stealth, sinking underneath as soon as they see man. + They seldom leave the water to catch prey, but often come out by day to + enjoy the pleasure of basking in the sun. In walking along the bank of the + Zouga once, a small one, about three feet long, made a dash at my feet, + and caused me to rush quickly in another direction; but this is unusual, + for I never heard of a similar case. A wounded leche, chased into any of + the lagoons in the Barotse valley, or a man or dog going in for the + purpose of bringing out a dead one, is almost sure to be seized, though + the alligators may not appear on the surface. When employed in looking for + food they keep out of sight; they fish chiefly by night. When eating, they + make a loud, champing noise, which when once heard is never forgotten. + </p> + <p> + The young, which had come out of the nests where we spent the night, did + not appear wary; they were about ten inches long, with yellow eyes, and + pupil merely a perpendicular slit. They were all marked with transverse + slips of pale green and brown, half an inch broad. When speared, they bit + the weapon savagely, though their teeth were but partially developed, + uttering at the same time a sharp bark like that of a whelp when it first + begins to use its voice. I could not ascertain whether the dam devours + them, as reported, or whether the ichneumon has the same reputation here + as in Egypt. Probably the Barotse and Bayeiye would not look upon it as a + benefactor; they prefer to eat the eggs themselves, and be their own + ichneumons. The white of the egg does not coagulate, but the yolk does, + and this is the only part eaten. + </p> + <p> + As the population increases, the alligators will decrease, for their nests + will be oftener found; the principal check on their inordinate + multiplication seems to be man. They are more savage and commit more + mischief in the Leeambye than in any other river. After dancing long in + the moonlight nights, young men run down to the water to wash off the dust + and cool themselves before going to bed, and are thus often carried away. + One wonders they are not afraid; but the fact is, they have as little + sense of danger impending over them as the hare has when not actually + pursued by the hound, and in many rencounters, in which they escape, they + had not time to be afraid, and only laugh at the circumstance afterward: + there is a want of calm reflection. In many cases, not referred to in this + book, I feel more horror now in thinking on dangers I have run than I did + at the time of their occurrence. + </p> + <p> + When we reached the part of the river opposite to the village of Manenko, + the first female chief whom we encountered, two of the people called + Balunda, or Balonda, came to us in their little canoe. From them we + learned that Kolimbota, one of our party, who had been in the habit of + visiting these parts, was believed by the Balonda to have acted as a guide + to the marauders under Lerimo, whose captives we were now returning. They + very naturally suspected this, from the facility with which their villages + had been found, and, as they had since removed them to some distance from + the river, they were unwilling to lead us to their places of concealment. + We were in bad repute, but, having a captive boy and girl to show in + evidence of Sekeletu and ourselves not being partakers in the guilt of + inferior men, I could freely express my desire that all should live in + peace. They evidently felt that I ought to have taught the Makololo first, + before coming to them, for they remarked that what I advanced was very + good, but guilt lay at the door of the Makololo for disturbing the + previously existing peace. They then went away to report us to Manenko. + </p> + <p> + When the strangers visited us again in the evening, they were accompanied + by a number of the people of an Ambonda chief named Sekelenke. The Ambonda + live far to the N.W.; their language, the Bonda, is the common dialect in + Angola. Sekelenke had fled, and was now living with his village as a + vassal of Masiko. As notices of such men will perhaps convey the best idea + of the state of the inhabitants to the reader, I shall hereafter allude to + the conduct of Sekelenke, whom I at present only introduce. Sekelenke had + gone with his villagers to hunt elephants on the right bank of the Leeba, + and was now on his way back to Masiko. He sent me a dish of boiled zebra's + flesh, and a request that I should lend him a canoe to ferry his wives and + family across the river to the bank on which we were encamped. Many of + Sekelenke's people came to salute the first white man they ever had an + opportunity of seeing; but Sekelenke himself did not come near. We heard + he was offended with some of his people for letting me know he was among + the company. He said that I should be displeased with him for not coming + and making some present. This was the only instance in which I was shunned + in this quarter. + </p> + <p> + As it would have been impolitic to pass Manenko, or any chief, without at + least showing so much respect as to call and explain the objects of our + passing through the country, we waited two entire days for the return of + the messengers to Manenko; and as I could not hurry matters, I went into + the adjacent country to search for meat for the camp. + </p> + <p> + The country is furnished largely with forest, having occasionally open + lawns covered with grass, not in tufts as in the south, but so closely + planted that one can not see the soil. We came upon a man and his two + wives and children, burning coarse rushes and the stalks of tsitla, + growing in a brackish marsh, in order to extract a kind of salt from the + ashes. They make a funnel of branches of trees, and line it with grass + rope, twisted round until it is, as it were, a beehive-roof inverted. The + ashes are put into water, in a calabash, and then it is allowed to + percolate through the small hole in the bottom and through the grass. When + this water is evaporated in the sun, it yields sufficient salt to form a + relish with food. The women and children fled with precipitation, but we + sat down at a distance, and allowed the man time to gain courage enough to + speak. He, however, trembled excessively at the apparition before him; but + when we explained that our object was to hunt game, and not men, he became + calm, and called back his wives. We soon afterward came to another party + on the same errand with ourselves. The man had a bow about six feet long, + and iron-headed arrows about thirty inches in length; he had also wooden + arrows neatly barbed, to shoot in cases where he might not be quite + certain of recovering them again. We soon afterward got a zebra, and gave + our hunting acquaintances such a liberal share that we soon became + friends. All whom we saw that day then came with us to the encampment to + beg a little meat; and as they have so little salt, I have no doubt they + felt grateful for what we gave. + </p> + <p> + Sekelenke and his people, twenty-four in number, defiled past our camp + carrying large bundles of dried elephants' meat. Most of them came to say + good-by, and Sekelenke himself sent to say that he had gone to visit a + wife living in the village of Manenko. It was a mere African manoeuvre to + gain information, and not commit himself to either one line of action or + another with respect to our visit. As he was probably in the party before + us, I replied that it was all right, and when my people came up from + Masiko I would go to my wife too. Another zebra came to our camp, and, as + we had friends near, it was shot. It was the 'Equus montanus', though the + country is perfectly flat, and was finely marked down to the feet, as all + the zebras are in these parts. + </p> + <p> + To our first message, offering a visit of explanation to Manenko, we got + an answer, with a basket of manioc roots, that we must remain where we + were till she should visit us. Having waited two days already for her, + other messengers arrived with orders for me to come to her. After four + days of rains and negotiation, I declined going at all, and proceeded up + the river to the small stream Makondo (lat. 13d 23' 12" S.), which enters + the Leeba from the east, and is between twenty and thirty yards broad. + </p> + <p> + JANUARY 1ST, 1854. We had heavy rains almost every day; indeed, the rainy + season had fairly set in. Baskets of the purple fruit called mawa were + frequently brought to us by the villagers; not for sale, but from a belief + that their chiefs would be pleased to hear that they had treated us well; + we gave them pieces of meat in return. + </p> + <p> + When crossing at the confluence of the Leeba and Makondo, one of my men + picked up a bit of a steel watch-chain of English manufacture, and we were + informed that this was the spot where the Mambari cross in coming to + Masiko. Their visits explain why Sekelenke kept his tusks so carefully. + These Mambari are very enterprising merchants: when they mean to trade + with a town, they deliberately begin the affair by building huts, as if + they knew that little business could be transacted without a liberal + allowance of time for palaver. They bring Manchester goods into the heart + of Africa; these cotton prints look so wonderful that the Makololo could + not believe them to be the work of mortal hands. On questioning the + Mambari they were answered that English manufactures came out of the sea, + and beads were gathered on its shore. To Africans our cotton mills are + fairy dreams. "How can the irons spin, weave, and print so beautifully?" + Our country is like what Taprobane was to our ancestors—a strange + realm of light, whence came the diamond, muslin, and peacocks; an attempt + at explanation of our manufactures usually elicits the expression, "Truly + ye are gods!" + </p> + <p> + When about to leave the Makondo, one of my men had dreamed that Mosantu + was shut up a prisoner in a stockade: this dream depressed the spirits of + the whole party, and when I came out of my little tent in the morning, + they were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow. I asked if we were to be + guided by dreams, or by the authority I derived from Sekeletu, and ordered + them to load the boats at once; they seemed ashamed to confess their + fears; the Makololo picked up courage and upbraided the others for having + such superstitious views, and said this was always their way; if even a + certain bird called to them, they would turn back from an enterprise, + saying it was unlucky. They entered the canoes at last, and were the + better of a little scolding for being inclined to put dreams before + authority. It rained all the morning, but about eleven we reached the + village of Sheakondo, on a small stream named Lonkonye. We sent a message + to the head man, who soon appeared with two wives, bearing handsome + presents of manioc: Sheakondo could speak the language of the Barotse + well, and seemed awestruck when told some of the "words of God". He + manifested no fear, always spoke frankly, and when he made an + asseveration, did so by simply pointing up to the sky above him. The + Balonda cultivate the manioc or cassava extensively; also dura, + ground-nuts, beans, maize, sweet potatoes, and yams, here called "lekoto", + but as yet we see only the outlying villages. + </p> + <p> + The people who came with Sheakondo to our bivouac had their teeth filed to + a point by way of beautifying them, though those which were left untouched + were always the whitest; they are generally tattooed in various parts, but + chiefly on the abdomen: the skin is raised in small elevated cicatrices, + each nearly half an inch long and a quarter of an inch in diameter, so + that a number of them may constitute a star, or other device. The dark + color of the skin prevents any coloring matter being deposited in these + figures, but they love much to have the whole surface of their bodies + anointed with a comfortable varnish of oil. In their unassisted state they + depend on supplies of oil from the Palma Christi, or castor-oil plant, or + from various other oliferous seeds, but they are all excessively fond of + clarified butter or ox fat. Sheakondo's old wife presented some manioc + roots, and then politely requested to be anointed with butter: as I had + been bountifully supplied by the Makololo, I gave her as much as would + suffice, and as they have little clothing, I can readily believe that she + felt her comfort greatly enhanced thereby. + </p> + <p> + The favorite wife, who was also present, was equally anxious for butter. + She had a profusion of iron rings on her ankles, to which were attached + little pieces of sheet iron, to enable her to make a tinkling as she + walked in her mincing African style; the same thing is thought pretty by + our own dragoons in walking jauntingly. + </p> + <p> + We had so much rain and cloud that I could not get a single observation + for either longitude or latitude for a fortnight. Yet the Leeba does not + show any great rise, nor is the water in the least discolored. It is + slightly black, from the number of mossy rills which fall into it. It has + remarkably few birds and fish, while the Leeambye swarms with both. It is + noticeable that alligators here possess more of the fear of man than in + the Leeambye. The Balonda have taught them, by their poisoned arrows, to + keep out of sight. We did not see one basking in the sun. The Balonda set + so many little traps for birds that few appear. I observed, however, many + (to me) new small birds of song on its banks. More rain has been falling + in the east than here, for the Leeambye was rising fast and working + against the sandy banks so vigorously that a slight yellow tinge was + perceptible in it. + </p> + <p> + One of our men was bitten by a non-venomous serpent, and of course felt no + harm. The Barotse concluded that this was owing to many of them being + present and seeing it, as if the sight of human eyes could dissolve the + poison and act as a charm. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of January we reached the village of another female chief, + named Nyamoana, who is said to be the mother of Manenko, and sister of + Shinte or Kabompo, the greatest Balonda chief in this part of the country. + Her people had but recently come to the present locality, and had erected + only twenty huts. Her husband, Samoana, was clothed in a kilt of green and + red baize, and was armed with a spear and a broadsword of antique form, + about eighteen inches long and three broad. The chief and her husband were + sitting on skins placed in the middle of a circle thirty paces in + diameter, a little raised above the ordinary level of the ground, and + having a trench round it. Outside the trench sat about a hundred persons + of all ages and both sexes. The men were well armed with bows, arrows, + spears, and broadswords. Beside the husband sat a rather aged woman, + having a bad outward squint in the left eye. We put down our arms about + forty yards off, and I walked up to the centre of the circular bench, and + saluted him in the usual way by clapping the hands together in their + fashion. He pointed to his wife, as much as to say, the honor belongs to + her. I saluted her in the same way, and a mat having been brought, I + squatted down in front of them. + </p> + <p> + The talker was then called, and I was asked who was my spokesman. Having + pointed to Kolimbota, who knew their dialect best, the palaver began in + due form. I explained the real objects I had in view, without any attempt + to mystify or appear in any other character than my own, for I have always + been satisfied that, even though there were no other considerations, the + truthful way of dealing with the uncivilized is unquestionably the best. + Kolimbota repeated to Nyamoana's talker what I had said to him. He + delivered it all verbatim to her husband, who repeated it again to her. It + was thus all rehearsed four times over, in a tone loud enough to be heard + by the whole party of auditors. The response came back by the same + roundabout route, beginning at the lady to her husband, etc. + </p> + <p> + After explanations and re-explanations, I perceived that our new friends + were mixing up my message of peace and friendship with Makololo affairs, + and stated that it was not delivered on the authority of any one less than + that of their Creator, and that if the Makololo did again break His laws + and attack the Balonda, the guilt would rest with the Makololo and not + with me. The palaver then came to a close. + </p> + <p> + By way of gaining their confidence, I showed them my hair, which is + considered a curiosity in all this region. They said, "Is that hair? It is + the mane of a lion, and not hair at all." Some thought that I had made a + wig of lion's mane, as they sometimes do with fibres of the "ife", and dye + it black, and twist it so as to resemble a mass of their own wool. I could + not return the joke by telling them that theirs was not hair, but the wool + of sheep, for they have none of these in the country; and even though they + had, as Herodotus remarked, "the African sheep are clothed with hair, and + men's heads with wool." So I had to be content with asserting that mine + was the real original hair, such as theirs would have been had it not been + scorched and frizzled by the sun. In proof of what the sun could do, I + compared my own bronzed face and hands, then about the same in complexion + as the lighter-colored Makololo, with the white skin of my chest. They + readily believed that, as they go nearly naked and fully exposed to that + influence, we might be of common origin after all. Here, as every where, + when heat and moisture are combined, the people are very dark, but not + quite black. There is always a shade of brown in the most deeply colored. + I showed my watch and pocket compass, which are considered great + curiosities; but, though the lady was called on by her husband to look, + she would not be persuaded to approach near enough. + </p> + <p> + These people are more superstitious than any we had yet encountered; + though still only building their village, they had found time to erect two + little sheds at the chief dwelling in it, in which were placed two pots + having charms in them. When asked what medicine they contained, they + replied, "Medicine for the Barimo;" but when I rose and looked into them, + they said they were medicine for the game. Here we saw the first evidence + of the existence of idolatry in the remains of an old idol at a deserted + village. It was simply a human head carved on a block of wood. Certain + charms mixed with red ochre and white pipe-clay are dotted over them when + they are in use; and a crooked stick is used in the same way for an idol + when they have no professional carver. + </p> + <p> + As the Leeba seemed still to come from the direction in which we wished to + go, I was desirous of proceeding farther up with the canoes; but Nyamoana + was anxious that we should allow her people to conduct us to her brother + Shinte; and when I explained the advantage of water-carriage, she + represented that her brother did not live near the river, and, moreover, + there was a cataract in front, over which it would be difficult to convey + the canoes. She was afraid, too, that the Balobale, whose country lies to + the west of the river, not knowing the objects for which we had come, + would kill us. To my reply that I had been so often threatened with death + if I visited a new tribe that I was now more afraid of killing any one + than of being killed, she rejoined that the Balobale would not kill me, + but the Makololo would all be sacrificed as their enemies. This produced + considerable effect on my companions, and inclined them to the plan of + Nyamoana, of going to the town of her brother rather than ascending the + Leeba. The arrival of Manenko herself on the scene threw so much weight + into the scale on their side that I was forced to yield the point. + </p> + <p> + Manenko was a tall, strapping woman about twenty, distinguished by a + profusion of ornaments and medicines hung round her person; the latter are + supposed to act as charms. Her body was smeared all over with a mixture of + fat and red ochre, as a protection against the weather; a necessary + precaution, for, like most of the Balonda ladies, she was otherwise in a + state of frightful nudity. This was not from want of clothing, for, being + a chief, she might have been as well clad as any of her subjects, but from + her peculiar ideas of elegance in dress. When she arrived with her + husband, Sambanza, they listened for some time to the statements I was + making to the people of Nyamoana, after which the husband, acting as + spokesman, commenced an oration, stating the reasons for their coming, + and, during every two or three seconds of the delivery, he picked up a + little sand, and rubbed it on the upper part of his arms and chest. This + is a common mode of salutation in Londa; and when they wish to be + excessively polite, they bring a quantity of ashes or pipe-clay in a piece + of skin, and, taking up handfuls, rub it on the chest and upper front part + of each arm; others, in saluting, drum their ribs with their elbows; while + others still touch the ground with one cheek after the other, and clap + their hands. The chiefs go through the manoeuvre of rubbing the sand on + the arms, but only make a feint at picking up some. When Sambanza had + finished his oration, he rose up, and showed his ankles ornamented with a + bundle of copper rings; had they been very heavy, they would have made him + adopt a straggling walk. Some chiefs have really so many as to be forced, + by the weight and size, to keep one foot apart from the other, the weight + being a serious inconvenience in walking. The gentlemen like Sambanza, who + wish to imitate their betters, do so in their walk; so you see men, with + only a few ounces of ornament on their legs, strutting along as if they + had double the number of pounds. When I smiled at Sambanza's walk, the + people remarked, "That is the way in which they show off their lordship in + these parts." + </p> + <p> + Manenko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy of friendship with + the Makololo which we recommended; and, by way of cementing the bond, she + and her counselors proposed that Kolimbota should take a wife among them. + By this expedient she hoped to secure his friendship, and also accurate + information as to the future intentions of the Makololo. She thought that + he would visit the Balonda more frequently afterward, having the good + excuse of going to see his wife; and the Makololo would never, of course, + kill the villagers among whom so near a relative of one of their own + children dwells. Kolimbota, I found, thought favorably of the proposition, + and it afterward led to his desertion from us. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the day in which Manenko arrived, we were delighted by + the appearance of Mosantu and an imposing embassy from Masiko. It + consisted of all his under-chiefs, and they brought a fine elephant's + tusk, two calabashes of honey, and a large piece of blue baize, as a + present. The last was intended perhaps to show me that he was a truly + great chief, who had such stores of white men's goods at hand that he + could afford to give presents of them; it might also be intended for + Mosantu, for chiefs usually remember the servants; I gave it to him. + Masiko expressed delight, by his principal men, at the return of the + captives, and at the proposal of peace and alliance with the Makololo. He + stated that he never sold any of his own people to the Mambari, but only + captives whom his people kidnapped from small neighboring tribes. When the + question was put whether his people had been in the habit of molesting the + Makololo by kidnapping their servants and stealing canoes, it was admitted + that two of his men, when hunting, had gone to the Makololo gardens, to + see if any of their relatives were there. As the great object in all + native disputes is to get both parties to turn over a new leaf, I + explained the desirableness of forgetting past feuds, accepting the + present Makololo professions as genuine, and avoiding in future to give + them any cause for marauding. I presented Masiko with an ox, furnished by + Sekeletu as provision for ourselves. All these people are excessively fond + of beef and butter, from having been accustomed to them in their youth, + before the Makololo deprived them of cattle. They have abundance of game, + but I am quite of their opinion that, after all, there is naught in the + world equal to roast beef, and that in their love for it the English show + both good taste and sound sense. The ox was intended for Masiko, but his + men were very anxious to get my sanction for slaughtering it on the spot. + I replied that when it went out of my hands I had no more to do with it. + They, however, wished the responsibility of slaughtering it to rest with + me; if I had said they might kill it, not many ounces would have remained + in the morning. I would have given permission, but had nothing else to + offer in return for Masiko's generosity. + </p> + <p> + We were now without any provisions except a small dole of manioc roots + each evening from Nyamoana, which, when eaten raw, produce poisonous + effects. A small loaf, made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal from + Libonta, was my stock, and our friends from Masiko were still more + destitute; yet we all rejoiced so much at their arrival that we resolved + to spend a day with them. The Barotse of our party, meeting with relatives + and friends among the Barotse of Masiko, had many old tales to tell; and, + after pleasant hungry converse by day, we regaled our friends with the + magic lantern by night, and, in order to make the thing of use to all, we + removed our camp up to the village of Nyamoana. This is a good means of + arresting the attention, and conveying important facts to the minds of + these people. + </p> + <p> + When erecting our sheds at the village, Manenko fell upon our friends from + Masiko in a way that left no doubt on our minds but that she is a most + accomplished scold. Masiko had, on a former occasion, sent to Samoana for + a cloth, a common way of keeping up intercourse, and, after receiving it, + sent it back, because it had the appearance of having had "witchcraft + medicine" on it; this was a grave offense, and now Manenko had a good + excuse for venting her spleen, the embassadors having called at her + village, and slept in one of the huts without leave. If her family was to + be suspected of dealing in evil charms, why were Masiko's people not to be + thought guilty of leaving the same in her hut? She advanced and receded in + true oratorical style, belaboring her own servants as well for allowing + the offense, and, as usual in more civilized feminine lectures, she leaned + over the objects of her ire, and screamed forth all their faults and + failings ever since they were born, and her despair of ever seeing them + become better, until they were all "killed by alligators". Masiko's people + followed the plan of receiving this torrent of abuse in silence, and, as + neither we nor they had any thing to eat, we parted next morning. In + reference to Masiko selling slaves to the Mambari, they promised to + explain the relationship which exists between even the most abject of his + people and our common Father; and that no more kidnapping ought to be + allowed, as he ought to give that peace and security to the smaller tribes + on his eastern borders which he so much desired to obtain himself from the + Makololo. We promised to return through his town when we came back from + the sea-coast. + </p> + <p> + Manenko gave us some manioc roots in the morning, and had determined to + carry our baggage to her uncle's, Kabompo or Shinte. We had heard a sample + of what she could do with her tongue; and as neither my men nor myself had + much inclination to encounter a scolding from this black Mrs. Caudle, we + made ready the packages; but she came and said the men whom she had + ordered for the service had not yet come; they would arrive to-morrow. + Being on low and disagreeable diet, I felt annoyed at this further delay, + and ordered the packages to be put into the canoes to proceed up the river + without her servants; but Manenko was not to be circumvented in this way; + she came forward with her people, and said her uncle would be angry if she + did not carry forward the tusks and goods of Sekeletu, seized the luggage, + and declared that she would carry it in spite of me. My men succumbed + sooner to this petticoat government than I felt inclined to do, and left + me no power; and, being unwilling to encounter her tongue, I was moving + off to the canoes, when she gave me a kind explanation, and, with her hand + on my shoulder, put on a motherly look, saying, "Now, my little man, just + do as the rest have done." My feelings of annoyance of course vanished, + and I went out to try and get some meat. + </p> + <p> + The only game to be found in these parts are the ZEBRA, the KUALATA or + tahetsi ('Aigoceros equina'), kama ('Bubalus caama'), buffaloes, and the + small antelope hakitenwe ('Philantomba'). + </p> + <p> + The animals can be seen here only by following on their trail for many + miles. Urged on by hunger, we followed that of some zebras during the + greater part of the day: when within fifty yards of them, in a dense + thicket, I made sure of one, but, to my infinite disgust, the gun missed + fire, and off they bounded. The climate is so very damp, from daily heavy + rains, that every thing becomes loaded with moisture, and the powder in + the gun-nipples can not be kept dry. It is curious to mark the + intelligence of the game; in districts where they are much annoyed by + fire-arms, they keep out on the most open spots of country they can find, + in order to have a widely-extended range of vision, and a man armed is + carefully shunned. From the frequency with which I have been allowed to + approach nearer without than with a gun, I believe they know the + difference between safety and danger in the two cases. But here, where + they are killed by the arrows of the Balonda, they select for safety the + densest forest, where the arrow can not be easily shot. The variation in + the selection of standing-spots during the day may, however, be owing + partly to the greater heat of the sun, for here it is particularly sharp + and penetrating. However accounted for, the wild animals here do select + the forests by day, while those farther south generally shun these covers, + and, on several occasions, I have observed there was no sunshine to cause + them to seek for shade. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 16. + </h2> + <p> + Nyamoana's Present—Charms—Manenko's pedestrian Powers—An + Idol— Balonda Arms—Rain—Hunger—Palisades—Dense + Forests—Artificial Beehives—Mushrooms—Villagers lend the + Roofs of their Houses —Divination and Idols—Manenko's Whims—A + night Alarm—Shinte's Messengers and Present—The proper Way to + approach a Village—A Merman—Enter Shinte's Town: its + Appearance—Meet two half-caste Slave-traders—The Makololo + scorn them—The Balonda real Negroes—Grand Reception from + Shinte—His Kotla—Ceremony of Introduction—The Orators—Women—Musicians + and Musical Instruments—A disagreeable Request—Private + Interviews with Shinte—Give him an Ox—Fertility of Soil—Manenko's + new Hut—Conversation with Shinte—Kolimbota's Proposal—Balonda's + Punctiliousness—Selling Children—Kidnapping— Shinte's + Offer of a Slave—Magic Lantern—Alarm of Women— Delay—Sambanza + returns intoxicated—The last and greatest Proof of Shinte's + Friendship. + </p> + <p> + 11TH OF JANUARY, 1854. On starting this morning, Samoana (or rather + Nyamoana, for the ladies are the chiefs here) presented a string of beads, + and a shell highly valued among them, as an atonement for having assisted + Manenko, as they thought, to vex me the day before. They seemed anxious to + avert any evil which might arise from my displeasure; but having replied + that I never kept my anger up all night, they were much pleased to see me + satisfied. We had to cross, in a canoe, a stream which flows past the + village of Nyamoana. Manenko's doctor waved some charms over her, and she + took some in her hand and on her body before she ventured upon the water. + One of my men spoke rather loudly when near the doctor's basket of + medicines. The doctor reproved him, and always spoke in a whisper himself, + glancing back to the basket as if afraid of being heard by something + therein. So much superstition is quite unknown in the south, and is + mentioned here to show the difference in the feelings of this new people, + and the comparative want of reverence on these points among Caffres and + Bechuanas. + </p> + <p> + Manenko was accompanied by her husband and her drummer; the latter + continued to thump most vigorously until a heavy, drizzling mist set in + and compelled him to desist. Her husband used various incantations and + vociferations to drive away the rain, but down it poured incessantly, and + on our Amazon went, in the very lightest marching order, and at a pace + that few of the men could keep up with. Being on ox-back, I kept pretty + close to our leader, and asked her why she did not clothe herself during + the rain, and learned that it is not considered proper for a chief to + appear effeminate. He or she must always wear the appearance of robust + youth, and bear vicissitudes without wincing. My men, in admiration of her + pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked, "Manenko is a soldier;" + and thoroughly wet and cold, we were all glad when she proposed a halt to + prepare our night's lodging on the banks of a stream. + </p> + <p> + The country through which we were passing was the same succession of + forest and open lawns as formerly mentioned: the trees were nearly all + evergreens, and of good, though not very gigantic size. The lawns were + covered with grass, which, in thickness of crop, looked like ordinary + English hay. We passed two small hamlets surrounded by gardens of maize + and manioc, and near each of these I observed, for the first time, an ugly + idol common in Londa—the figure of an animal, resembling an + alligator, made of clay. It is formed of grass, plastered over with soft + clay; two cowrie-shells are inserted as eyes, and numbers of the bristles + from the tail of an elephant are stuck in about the neck. It is called a + lion, though, if one were not told so, he would conclude it to be an + alligator. It stood in a shed, and the Balonda pray and beat drums before + it all night in cases of sickness. + </p> + <p> + Some of the men of Manenko's train had shields made of reeds, neatly woven + into a square shape, about five feet long and three broad. With these, and + short broadswords and sheaves of iron-headed arrows, they appeared rather + ferocious. But the constant habit of wearing arms is probably only a + substitute for the courage they do not possess. We always deposited our + fire-arms and spears outside a village before entering it, while the + Balonda, on visiting us at our encampment, always came fully armed, until + we ordered them either to lay down their weapons or be off. Next day we + passed through a piece of forest so dense that no one could have + penetrated it without an axe. It was flooded, not by the river, but by the + heavy rains which poured down every day, and kept those who had clothing + constantly wet. I observed, in this piece of forest, a very strong smell + of sulphureted hydrogen. This I had observed repeatedly in other parts + before. I had attacks of fever of the intermittent type again and again, + in consequence of repeated drenchings in these unhealthy spots. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th and 12th we were detained by incessant rains, and so heavy I + never saw the like in the south. I had a little tapioca and a small + quantity of Libonta meal, which I still reserved for worse times. The + patience of my men under hunger was admirable; the actual want of the + present is never so painful as the thought of getting nothing in the + future. We thought the people of some large hamlets very niggardly and + very independent of their chiefs, for they gave us and Manenko nothing, + though they had large fields of maize in an eatable state around them. + When she went and kindly begged some for me, they gave her five ears only. + They were subjects of her uncle; and, had they been Makololo, would have + been lavish in their gifts to the niece of their chief. I suspected that + they were dependents of some of Shinte's principal men, and had no power + to part with the maize of their masters. + </p> + <p> + Each house of these hamlets has a palisade of thick stakes around it, and + the door is made to resemble the rest of the stockade; the door is never + seen open; when the owner wishes to enter, he removes a stake or two, + squeezes his body in, then plants them again in their places, so that an + enemy coming in the night would find it difficult to discover the + entrance. These palisades seem to indicate a sense of insecurity in regard + to their fellow-men, for there are no wild beasts to disturb them; the + bows and arrows have been nearly as efficacious in clearing the country + here as guns have in the country farther south. This was a disappointment + to us, for we expected a continuance of the abundance of game in the north + which we found when we first came up to the confluence of the Leeba and + Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + A species of the silver-tree of the Cape ('Leucodendron argenteum') is + found in abundance in the parts through which we have traveled since + leaving Samoana's. As it grows at a height of between two and three + thousand feet above the level of the sea, on the Cape Table Mountain, and + again on the northern slope of the Cashan Mountains, and here at + considerably greater heights (four thousand feet), the difference of + climate prevents the botanical range being considered as affording a good + approximation to the altitude. The rapid flow of the Leeambye, which once + seemed to me evidence of much elevation of the country from which it + comes, I now found, by the boiling point of water, was fallacious.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * On examining this subject when I returned to Linyanti, I + found that, according to Dr. Arnott, a declivity of three + inches per mile gives a velocity in a smooth, straight channel + of three miles an hour. The general velocity of the Zambesi is + three miles and three quarters per hour, though in the rocky + parts it is sometimes as much as four and a half. If, + however, we make allowances for roughness of bottom, bendings + of channel, and sudden descents at cataracts, and say the + declivity is even seven inches per mile, those 800 miles + between the east coast and the great falls would require less + than 500 feet to give the observed velocity, and the + additional distance to this point would require but 150 feet + of altitude more. If my observation of this altitude may be + depended on, we have a steeper declivity for the Zambesi than + for some other great rivers. The Ganges, for instance, is + said to be at 1800 miles from its mouth only 800 feet above + the level of the sea, and water requires a month to come that + distance. But there are so many modifying circumstances, it is + difficult to draw any reliable conclusion from the currents. + The Chobe is sometimes heard of as flooded, about 40 miles + above Linyanti, a fortnight before the inundation reaches that + point, but it is very tortuous. The great river Magdalena + falls only 500 feet in a thousand miles; other rivers much + more. +</pre> + <p> + The forests became more dense as we went north. We traveled much more in + the deep gloom of the forest than in open sunlight. No passage existed on + either side of the narrow path made by the axe. Large climbing plants + entwined themselves around the trunks and branches of gigantic trees like + boa constrictors, and they often do constrict the trees by which they + rise, and, killing them, stand erect themselves. The bark of a fine tree + found in abundance here, and called "motuia", is used by the Barotse for + making fish-lines and nets, and the "molompi", so well adapted for paddles + by its lightness and flexibility, was abundant. There were other trees + quite new to my companions; many of them ran up to a height of fifty feet + of one thickness, and without branches. + </p> + <p> + In these forests we first encountered the artificial beehives so commonly + met with all the way from this to Angola. They consist of about five feet + of the bark of a tree fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter. Two + incisions are made right round the tree at points five feet apart, then + one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other; the workman next + lifts up the bark on each side of this slit, and detaches it from the + trunk, taking care not to break it, until the whole comes from the tree. + The elasticity of the bark makes it assume the form it had before; the + slit is sewed or pegged up with wooden pins, and ends made of coiled + grass-rope are inserted, one of which has a hole for the ingress of the + bees in the centre, and the hive is complete. These hives are placed in a + horizontal position on high trees in different parts of the forest, and in + this way all the wax exported from Benguela and Loanda is collected. It is + all the produce of free labor. A "piece of medicine" is tied round the + trunk of the tree, and proves sufficient protection against thieves. The + natives seldom rob each other, for all believe that certain medicines can + inflict disease and death; and though they consider that these are only + known to a few, they act on the principle that it is best to let them all + alone. The gloom of these forests strengthens the superstitious feelings + of the people. In other quarters, where they are not subjected to this + influence, I have heard the chiefs issue proclamations to the effect that + real witchcraft medicines had been placed at certain gardens from which + produce had been stolen, the thieves having risked the power of the + ordinary charms previously placed there. + </p> + <p> + This being the rainy season, great quantities of mushrooms were met with, + and were eagerly devoured by my companions: the edible variety is always + found growing out of ant-hills, and attains the diameter of the crown of a + hat; they are quite white, and very good, even when eaten raw; they occupy + an extensive region of the interior; some, not edible, are of a brilliant + red, and others are of the same light blue as the paper used by + apothecaries to put up their medicines. + </p> + <p> + There was a considerable pleasure, in spite of rain and fever, in this new + scenery. The deep gloom contrasted strongly with the shadeless glare of + the Kalahari, which had left an indelible impression on my memory. Though + drenched day by day at this time, and for months afterward, it was long + before I could believe that we were getting too much of a good thing. Nor + could I look at water being thrown away without a slight, quick impression + flitting across the mind that we were guilty of wasting it. Every now and + then we emerged from the deep gloom into a pretty little valley, having a + damp portion in the middle; which, though now filled with water, at other + times contains moisture enough for wells only. These wells have shades put + over them in the form of little huts. + </p> + <p> + We crossed, in canoes, a little never-failing stream, which passes by the + name of Lefuje, or "the rapid". It comes from a goodly high mountain, + called Monakadzi (the woman), which gladdened our eyes as it rose to our + sight about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our course. It is of an + oblong shape, and seemed at least eight hundred feet above the plains. The + Lefuje probably derives its name from the rapid descent of the short + course it has to flow from Monakadzi to the Leeba. + </p> + <p> + The number of little villages seemed about equal to the number of valleys. + At some we stopped and rested, the people becoming more liberal as we + advanced. Others we found deserted, a sudden panic having seized the + inhabitants, though the drum of Manenko was kept beaten pretty constantly, + in order to give notice of the approach of great people. When we had + decided to remain for the night at any village, the inhabitants lent us + the roofs of their huts, which in form resemble those of the Makololo, or + a Chinaman's hat, and can be taken off the walls at pleasure. They lifted + them off, and brought them to the spot we had selected as our lodging, + and, when my men had propped them up with stakes, they were then safely + housed for the night. Every one who comes to salute either Manenko or + ourselves rubs the upper parts of the arms and chest with ashes; those who + wish to show profounder reverence put some also on the face. + </p> + <p> + We found that every village had its idols near it. This is the case all + through the country of the Balonda, so that, when we came to an idol in + the woods, we always knew that we were within a quarter of an hour of + human habitations. One very ugly idol we passed rested on a horizontal + beam placed on two upright posts. This beam was furnished with two loops + of cord, as of a chain, to suspend offerings before it. On remarking to my + companions that these idols had ears, but that they heard not, etc., I + learned that the Balonda, and even the Barotse, believe that divination + may be performed by means of these blocks of wood and clay; and though the + wood itself could not hear, the owners had medicines by which it could be + made to hear and give responses, so that if an enemy were approaching they + would have full information. Manenko having brought us to a stand on + account of slight indisposition and a desire to send forward notice of our + approach to her uncle, I asked why it was necessary to send forward + information of our movements, if Shinte had idols who could tell him every + thing. "She did it only,"* was the reply. It is seldom of much use to show + one who worships idols the folly of idolatry without giving something else + as an object of adoration instead. They do not love them. They fear them, + and betake themselves to their idols only when in perplexity and danger. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This is a curious African idiom, by which a person implies + he had no particular reason for his act. +</pre> + <p> + While delayed, by Manenko's management, among the Balonda villages, a + little to the south of the town of Shinte, we were well supplied by the + villagers with sweet potatoes and green maize; Sambanza went to his + mother's village for supplies of other food. I was laboring under fever, + and did not find it very difficult to exercise patience with her whims; + but it being Saturday, I thought we might as well go to the town for + Sunday (15th). "No; her messenger must return from her uncle first." Being + sure that the answer of the uncle would be favorable, I thought we might + go on at once, and not lose two days in the same spot. "No, it is our + custom;" and every thing else I could urge was answered in the genuine + pertinacious lady style. She ground some meal for me with her own hands, + and when she brought it told me she had actually gone to a village and + begged corn for the purpose. She said this with an air as if the inference + must be drawn by even a stupid white man: "I know how to manage, don't I?" + It was refreshing to get food which could be eaten without producing the + unpleasantness described by the Rev. John Newton, of St. Mary's, Woolnoth, + London, when obliged to eat the same roots while a slave in the West + Indies. The day (January 14th), for a wonder, was fair, and the sun shone, + so as to allow us to dry our clothing and other goods, many of which were + mouldy and rotten from the long-continued damp. The guns rusted, in spite + of being oiled every evening. + </p> + <p> + During the night we were all awakened by a terrific shriek from one of + Manenko's ladies. She piped out so loud and long that we all imagined she + had been seized by a lion, and my men snatched up their arms, which they + always place so as to be ready at a moment's notice, and ran to the + rescue; but we found the alarm had been caused by one of the oxen + thrusting his head into her hut and smelling her: she had put her hand on + his cold, wet nose, and thought it was all over with her. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday afternoon messengers arrived from Shinte, expressing his + approbation of the objects we had in view in our journey through the + country, and that he was glad of the prospect of a way being opened by + which white men might visit him, and allow him to purchase ornaments at + pleasure. Manenko now threatened in sport to go on, and I soon afterward + perceived that what now seemed to me the dilly-dallying way of this lady + was the proper mode of making acquaintance with the Balonda; and much of + the favor with which I was received in different places was owing to my + sending forward messengers to state the object of our coming before + entering each town and village. When we came in sight of a village we sat + down under the shade of a tree and sent forward a man to give notice who + we were and what were our objects. The head man of the village then sent + out his principal men, as Shinte now did, to bid us welcome and show us a + tree under which we might sleep. Before I had profited by the rather + tedious teaching of Manenko, I sometimes entered a village and created + unintentional alarm. The villagers would continue to look upon us with + suspicion as long as we remained. Shinte sent us two large baskets of + manioc and six dried fishes. His men had the skin of a monkey, called in + their tongue "poluma" ('Colobus guereza'), of a jet black color, except + the long mane, which is pure white: it is said to be found in the north, + in the country of Matiamvo, the paramount chief of all the Balonda. We + learned from them that they are in the habit of praying to their idols + when unsuccessful in killing game or in any other enterprise. They behaved + with reverence at our religious services. This will appear important if + the reader remembers the almost total want of prayer and reverence we + encountered in the south. + </p> + <p> + Our friends informed us that Shinte would be highly honored by the + presence of three white men in his town at once. Two others had sent + forward notice of their approach from another quarter (the west); could it + be Barth or Krapf? How pleasant to meet with Europeans in such an + out-of-the-way region! The rush of thoughts made me almost forget my + fever. Are they of the same color as I am? "Yes; exactly so." And have the + same hair? "Is that hair? we thought it was a wig; we never saw the like + before; this white man must be of the sort that lives in the sea." + Henceforth my men took the hint, and always sounded my praises as a true + specimen of the variety of white men who live in the sea. "Only look at + his hair; it is made quite straight by the sea-water!" + </p> + <p> + I explained to them again and again that, when it was said we came out of + the sea, it did not mean that we came from beneath the water; but the + fiction has been widely spread in the interior by the Mambari that the + real white men live in the sea, and the myth was too good not to be taken + advantage of by my companions; so, notwithstanding my injunctions, I + believe that, when I was out of hearing, my men always represented + themselves as led by a genuine merman: "Just see his hair!" If I returned + from walking to a little distance, they would remark of some to whom they + had been holding forth, "These people want to see your hair." + </p> + <p> + As the strangers had woolly hair like themselves, I had to give up the + idea of meeting any thing more European than two half-caste Portuguese, + engaged in trading for slaves, ivory, and bees'-wax. + </p> + <p> + 16TH. After a short march we came to a most lovely valley about a mile and + a half wide, and stretching away eastward up to a low prolongation of + Monakadzi. A small stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant green + glen; and on a little rill, which flows into it from the western side, + stands the town of Kabompo, or, as he likes best to be called, Shinte. + (Lat. 12d 37' 35" S., long. 22d 47' E.) When Manenko thought the sun was + high enough for us to make a lucky entrance, we found the town embowered + in banana and other tropical trees having great expansion of leaf; the + streets are straight, and present a complete contrast to those of the + Bechuanas, which are all very tortuous. Here, too, we first saw native + huts with square walls and round roofs. The fences or walls of the courts + which surround the huts are wonderfully straight, and made of upright + poles a few inches apart, with strong grass or leafy bushes neatly woven + between. In the courts were small plantations of tobacco, and a little + solanaceous plant which the Balonda use as a relish; also sugar-cane and + bananas. Many of the poles have grown again, and trees of the 'Ficus + Indica' family have been planted around, in order to give to the + inhabitants a grateful shade: they regard this tree with some sort of + veneration as a medicine or charm. Goats were browsing about, and, when we + made our appearance, a crowd of negroes, all fully armed, ran toward us as + if they would eat us up; some had guns, but the manner in which they were + held showed that the owners were more accustomed to bows and arrows than + to white men's weapons. After surrounding and staring at us for an hour, + they began to disperse. + </p> + <p> + The two native Portuguese traders of whom we had heard had erected a + little encampment opposite the place where ours was about to be made. One + of them, whose spine had been injured in youth—a rare sight in this + country—came and visited us. I returned the visit next morning. His + tall companion had that sickly yellow hue which made him look fairer than + myself, but his head was covered with a crop of unmistakable wool. They + had a gang of young female slaves in a chain, hoeing the ground in front + of their encampment to clear it of weeds and grass; these were purchased + recently in Lobale, whence the traders had now come. There were many + Mambari with them, and the establishment was conducted with that military + order which pervades all the arrangements of the Portuguese colonists. A + drum was beaten and trumpet sounded at certain hours, quite in military + fashion. It was the first time most of my men had seen slaves in chains. + "They are not men," they exclaimed (meaning they are beasts), "who treat + their children so." + </p> + <p> + The Balonda are real negroes, having much more wool on their heads and + bodies than any of the Bechuana or Caffre tribes. They are generally very + dark in color, but several are to be seen of a lighter hue; many of the + slaves who have been exported to Brazil have gone from this region; but + while they have a general similarity to the typical negro, I never could, + from my own observation, think that our ideal negro, as seen in + tobacconists' shops, is the true type. A large proportion of the Balonda, + indeed, have heads somewhat elongated backward and upward, thick lips, + flat noses, elongated 'ossa calces', etc., etc.; but there are also many + good-looking, well-shaped heads and persons among them. + </p> + <p> + 17TH, TUESDAY. We were honored with a grand reception by Shinte about + eleven o'clock. Sambanza claimed the honor of presenting us, Manenko being + slightly indisposed. The native Portuguese and Mambari went fully armed + with guns, in order to give Shinte a salute; their drummer and trumpeter + making all the noise that very old instruments would produce. The kotla, + or place of audience, was about a hundred yards square, and two graceful + specimens of a species of banian stood near one end; under one of these + sat Shinte, on a sort of throne covered with a leopard's skin. He had on a + checked jacket, and a kilt of scarlet baize edged with green; many strings + of large beads hung from his neck, and his limbs were covered with iron + and copper armlets and bracelets; on his head he wore a helmet made of + beads woven neatly together, and crowned with a great bunch of + goose-feathers. Close to him sat three lads with large sheaves of arrows + over their shoulders. + </p> + <p> + When we entered the kotla, the whole of Manenko's party saluted Shinte by + clapping their hands, and Sambanza did obeisance by rubbing his chest and + arms with ashes. One of the trees being unoccupied, I retreated to it for + the sake of the shade, and my whole party did the same. We were now about + forty yards from the chief, and could see the whole ceremony. The + different sections of the tribe came forward in the same way that we did, + the head man of each making obeisance with ashes which he carried with him + for the purpose; then came the soldiers, all armed to the teeth, running + and shouting toward us, with their swords drawn, and their faces screwed + up so as to appear as savage as possible, for the purpose, I thought, of + trying whether they could not make us take to our heels. As we did not, + they turned round toward Shinte and saluted him, then retired. When all + had come and were seated, then began the curious capering usually seen in + pichos. A man starts up, and imitates the most approved attitudes observed + in actual fight, as throwing one javelin, receiving another on the shield, + springing to one side to avoid a third, running backward or forward, + leaping, etc. This over, Sambanza and the spokesman of Nyamoana stalked + backward and forward in front of Shinte, and gave forth, in a loud voice, + all they had been able to learn, either from myself or people, of my past + history and connection with the Makololo; the return of the captives; the + wish to open the country to trade; the Bible as a word from heaven; the + white man's desire for the tribes to live in peace: he ought to have + taught the Makololo that first, for the Balonda never attacked them, yet + they had assailed the Balonda: perhaps he is fibbing, perhaps not; they + rather thought he was; but as the Balonda had good hearts, and Shinte had + never done harm to any one, he had better receive the white man well, and + send him on his way. Sambanza was gayly attired, and, besides a profusion + of beads, had a cloth so long that a boy carried it after him as a train. + </p> + <p> + Behind Shinte sat about a hundred women, clothed in their best, which + happened to be a profusion of red baize. The chief wife of Shinte, one of + the Matebele or Zulus, sat in front with a curious red cap on her head. + During the intervals between the speeches, these ladies burst forth into a + sort of plaintive ditty; but it was impossible for any of us to catch + whether it was in praise of the speaker, of Shinte, or of themselves. This + was the first time I had ever seen females present in a public assembly. + In the south the women are not permitted to enter the kotla; and even when + invited to come to a religious service there, would not enter until + ordered to do so by the chief; but here they expressed approbation by + clapping their hands, and laughing to different speakers; and Shinte + frequently turned round and spoke to them. + </p> + <p> + A party of musicians, consisting of three drummers and four performers on + the piano, went round the kotla several times, regaling us with their + music. Their drums are neatly carved from the trunk of a tree, and have a + small hole in the side covered with a bit of spider's web: the ends are + covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on; and when they wish to + tighten it, they hold it to the fire to make it contract: the instruments + are beaten with the hands. + </p> + <p> + The piano, named "marimba", consists of two bars of wood placed side by + side, here quite straight, but, farther north, bent round so as to + resemble half the tire of a carriage-wheel; across these are placed about + fifteen wooden keys, each of which is two or three inches broad, and + fifteen or eighteen inches long; their thickness is regulated according to + the deepness of the note required: each of the keys has a calabash beneath + it; from the upper part of each a portion is cut off to enable them to + embrace the bars, and form hollow sounding-boards to the keys, which also + are of different sizes, according to the note required; and little + drumsticks elicit the music. Rapidity of execution seems much admired + among them, and the music is pleasant to the ear. In Angola the Portuguese + use the marimba in their dances. + </p> + <p> + When nine speakers had concluded their orations, Shinte stood up, and so + did all the people. He had maintained true African dignity of manner all + the while, but my people remarked that he scarcely ever took his eyes off + me for a moment. About a thousand people were present, according to my + calculation, and three hundred soldiers. The sun had now become hot; and + the scene ended by the Mambari discharging their guns. + </p> + <p> + 18TH. We were awakened during the night by a message from Shinte, + requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hour. As I was just in the + sweating stage of an intermittent, and the path to the town lay through a + wet valley, I declined going. Kolimbota, who knows their customs best, + urged me to go; but, independent of sickness, I hated words of the night + and deeds of darkness. "I was neither a hyaena nor a witch." Kolimbota + thought that we ought to conform to their wishes in every thing: I thought + we ought to have some choice in the matter as well, which put him into + high dudgeon. However, at ten next morning we went, and were led into the + courts of Shinte, the walls of which were woven rods, all very neat and + high. Many trees stood within the inclosure and afforded a grateful shade. + These had been planted, for we saw some recently put in, with grass wound + round the trunk to protect them from the sun. The otherwise waste corners + of the streets were planted with sugar-cane and bananas, which spread + their large light leaves over the walls. + </p> + <p> + The Ficus Indica tree, under which we now sat, had very large leaves, but + showed its relationship to the Indian banian by sending down shoots toward + the ground. Shinte soon came, and appeared a man of upward of fifty-five + years of age, of frank and open countenance, and about the middle height. + He seemed in good humor, and said he had expected yesterday "that a man + who came from the gods would have approached and talked to him." That had + been my own intention in going to the reception; but when we came and saw + the formidable preparations, and all his own men keeping at least forty + yards off from him, I yielded to the solicitations of my men, and remained + by the tree opposite to that under which he sat. His remark confirmed my + previous belief that a frank, open, fearless manner is the most winning + with all these Africans. I stated the object of my journey and mission, + and to all I advanced the old gentleman clapped his hands in approbation. + He replied through a spokesman; then all the company joined in the + response by clapping of hands too. + </p> + <p> + After the more serious business was over, I asked if he had ever seen a + white man before. He replied, "Never; you are the very first I have seen + with a white skin and straight hair; your clothing, too, is different from + any we have ever seen." They had been visited by native Portuguese and + Mambari only. + </p> + <p> + On learning from some of the people that "Shinte's mouth was bitter for + want of tasting ox-flesh," I presented him with an ox, to his great + delight; and, as his country is so well adapted for cattle, I advised him + to begin a trade in cows with the Makololo. He was pleased with the idea, + and when we returned from Loanda, we found that he had profited by the + hint, for he had got three, and one of them justified my opinion of the + country, for it was more like a prize heifer for fatness than any we had + seen in Africa. He soon afterward sent us a basket of green maize boiled, + another of manioc-meal, and a small fowl. The maize shows by its size the + fertility of the black soil of all the valleys here, and so does the + manioc, though no manure is ever applied. We saw manioc attain a height of + six feet and upward, and this is a plant which requires the very best + soil. + </p> + <p> + During this time Manenko had been extremely busy with all her people in + getting up a very pretty hut and court-yard, to be, as she said, her + residence always when white men were brought by her along the same path. + When she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle, she came forward to + us with the air of one wronged, and explained that "this white man + belonged to her; she had brought him here, and therefore the ox was hers, + not Shinte's." She ordered her men to bring it, got it slaughtered by + them, and presented her uncle with a leg only. Shinte did not seem at all + annoyed at the occurrence. + </p> + <p> + 19TH. I was awakened at an early hour by a messenger from Shinte; but the + thirst of a raging fever being just assuaged by the bursting forth of a + copious perspiration, I declined going for a few hours. Violent action of + the heart all the way to the town did not predispose me to be patient with + the delay which then occurred, probably on account of the divination being + unfavorable: "They could not find Shinte." When I returned to bed, another + message was received, "Shinte wished to say all he had to tell me at + once." This was too tempting an offer, so we went, and he had a fowl ready + in his hand to present, also a basket of manioc-meal, and a calabash of + mead. Referring to the constantly-recurring attacks of fever, he remarked + that it was the only thing which would prevent a successful issue to my + journey, for he had men to guide me who knew all the paths which led to + the white men. He had himself traveled far when a young man. On asking + what he would recommend for the fever, "Drink plenty of the mead, and as + it gets in, it will drive the fever out." It was rather strong, and I + suspect he liked the remedy pretty well, even though he had no fever. He + had always been a friend to Sebituane, and, now that his son Sekeletu was + in his place, Shinte was not merely a friend, but a father to him; and if + a son asks a favor, the father must give it. He was highly pleased with + the large calabashes of clarified butter and fat which Sekeletu had sent + him, and wished to detain Kolimbota, that he might send a present back to + Sekeletu by his hands. This proposition we afterward discovered was + Kolimbota's own, as he had heard so much about the ferocity of the tribes + through which we were to pass that he wished to save his skin. It will be + seen farther on that he was the only one of our party who returned with a + wound. + </p> + <p> + We were particularly struck, in passing through the village, with the + punctiliousness of manners shown by the Balonda. The inferiors, on meeting + their superiors in the street, at once drop on their knees and rub dust on + their arms and chest; they continue the salutation of clapping the hands + until the great ones have passed. Sambanza knelt down in this manner till + the son of Shinte had passed him. + </p> + <p> + We several times saw the woman who occupies the office of drawer of water + for Shinte; she rings a bell as she passes along to give warning to all to + keep out of her way; it would be a grave offense for any one to come near + her, and exercise an evil influence by his presence on the drink of the + chief. I suspect that offenses of the slightest character among the poor + are made the pretext for selling them or their children to the Mambari. A + young man of Lobale had fled into the country of Shinte, and located + himself without showing himself to the chief. This was considered an + offense sufficient to warrant his being seized and offered for sale while + we were there. He had not reported himself, so they did not know the + reason of his running away from his own chief, and that chief might accuse + them of receiving a criminal. It was curious to notice the effect of the + slave-trade in blunting the moral susceptibility: no chief in the south + would treat a fugitive in this way. My men were horrified at the act, even + though old Shinte and his council had some show of reason on their side; + and both the Barotse and the Makololo declared that, if the Balonda only + knew of the policy pursued by them to fugitives, but few of the + discontented would remain long with Shinte. My men excited the wonder of + his people by stating that every one of them had one cow at least in his + possession. + </p> + <p> + Another incident, which occurred while we were here, may be mentioned, as + of a character totally unknown in the south. Two children, of seven and + eight years old, went out to collect firewood a short distance from their + parents' home, which was a quarter of a mile from the village, and were + kidnapped; the distracted parents could not find a trace of them. This + happened so close to the town, where there are no beasts of prey, that we + suspect some of the high men of Shinte's court were the guilty parties: + they can sell them by night. The Mambari erect large huts of a square + shape to stow these stolen ones in; they are well fed, but aired by night + only. The frequent kidnapping from outlying hamlets explains the stockades + we saw around them; the parents have no redress, for even Shinte himself + seems fond of working in the dark. One night he sent for me, though I + always stated I liked all my dealings to be aboveboard. When I came he + presented me with a slave girl about ten years old; he said he had always + been in the habit of presenting his visitors with a child. On my thanking + him, and saying that I thought it wrong to take away children from their + parents, that I wished him to give up this system altogether, and trade in + cattle, ivory, and bees'-wax, he urged that she was "to be a child" to + bring me water, and that a great man ought to have a child for the + purpose, yet I had none. As I replied that I had four children, and should + be very sorry if my chief were to take my little girl and give her away, + and that I would prefer this child to remain and carry water for her own + mother, he thought I was dissatisfied with her size, and sent for one a + head taller; after many explanations of our abhorrence of slavery, and how + displeasing it must be to God to see his children selling one another, and + giving each other so much grief as this child's mother must feel, I + declined her also. If I could have taken her into my family for the + purpose of instruction, and then returned her as a free woman, according + to a promise I should have made to the parents, I might have done so; but + to take her away, and probably never be able to secure her return, would + have produced no good effect on the minds of the Balonda; they would not + then have seen evidence of our hatred to slavery, and the kind attentions + of my friends would, as it almost always does in similar cases, have + turned the poor thing's head. The difference in position between them and + us is as great as between the lowest and highest in England, and we know + the effects of sudden elevation on wiser heads than hers, whose owners had + not been born to it. + </p> + <p> + Shinte was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic lantern; but + fever had so weakening an effect, and I had such violent action of the + heart, with buzzing in the ears, that I could not go for several days; + when I did go for the purpose, he had his principal men and the same crowd + of court beauties near him as at the reception. The first picture + exhibited was Abraham about to slaughter his son Isaac; it was shown as + large as life, and the uplifted knife was in the act of striking the lad; + the Balonda men remarked that the picture was much more like a god than + the things of wood or clay they worshiped. I explained that this man was + the first of a race to whom God had given the Bible we now held, and that + among his children our Savior appeared. The ladies listened with silent + awe; but, when I moved the slide, the uplifted dagger moving toward them, + they thought it was to be sheathed in their bodies instead of Isaac's. + "Mother! mother!" all shouted at once, and off they rushed helter-skelter, + tumbling pell-mell over each other, and over the little idol-huts and + tobacco-bushes: we could not get one of them back again. Shinte, however, + sat bravely through the whole, and afterward examined the instrument with + interest. An explanation was always added after each time of showing its + powers, so that no one should imagine there was aught supernatural in it; + and had Mr. Murray, who kindly brought it from England, seen its + popularity among both Makololo and Balonda, he would have been gratified + with the direction his generosity then took. It was the only mode of + instruction I was ever pressed to repeat. The people came long distances + for the express purpose of seeing the objects and hearing the + explanations. + </p> + <p> + One can not get away quickly from these chiefs; they like to have the + honor of strangers residing in their villages. Here we had an additional + cause of delay in frequent rains; twenty-four hours never elapsed without + heavy showers; every thing is affected by the dampness; surgical + instruments become all rusty, clothing mildewed, and shoes mouldy; my + little tent was now so rotten and so full of small holes that every smart + shower caused a fine mist to descend on my blanket, and made me fain to + cover the head with it. Heavy dews lay on every thing in the morning, even + inside the tent; there is only a short time of sunshine in the afternoon, + and even that is so interrupted by thunder-showers that we can not dry our + bedding. + </p> + <p> + The winds coming from the north always bring heavy clouds and rain; in the + south, the only heavy rains noticed are those which come from the + northeast or east. The thermometer falls as low as 72 Degrees when there + is no sunshine, though, when the weather is fair, the protected + thermometer generally rises as high as 82 Degrees, even in the mornings + and evenings. + </p> + <p> + 24TH. We expected to have started to-day, but Sambanza, who had been sent + off early in the morning for guides, returned at midday without them, and + drunk. This was the first case of real babbling intoxication we had seen + in this region. The boyaloa, or beer of the country, has more of a + stupefying than exciting nature; hence the beer-bibbers are great + sleepers; they may frequently be seen lying on their faces sound asleep. + This peculiarity of posture was ascribed, by no less an authority than + Aristotle, to wine, while those who were sent asleep by beer were believed + "to lie upon their backs." + </p> + <p> + Sambanza had got into a state of inebriation from indulging in mead, + similar to that which Shinte presented to us, which is much more powerful + than boyaloa. As far as we could collect from his incoherent sentences, + Shinte had said the rain was too heavy for our departure, and the guides + still required time for preparation. Shinte himself was busy getting some + meal ready for my use in the journey. As it rained nearly all day, it was + no sacrifice to submit to his advice and remain. Sambanza staggered to + Manenko's hut; she, however, who had never promised "to love, honor, and + obey him," had not been "nursing her wrath to keep it warm," so she coolly + bundled him into the hut, and put him to bed. + </p> + <p> + As the last proof of friendship, Shinte came into my tent, though it could + scarcely contain more than one person, looked at all the curiosities, the + quicksilver, the looking-glass, books, hair-brushes, comb, watch, etc., + etc., with the greatest interest; then closing the tent, so that none of + his own people might see the extravagance of which he was about to be + guilty, he drew out from his clothing a string of beads, and the end of a + conical shell, which is considered, in regions far from the sea, of as + great value as the Lord Mayor's badge is in London. He hung it round my + neck, and said, "There, now you HAVE a proof of my friendship." + </p> + <p> + My men informed me that these shells are so highly valued in this quarter, + as evidences of distinction, that for two of them a slave might be bought, + and five would be considered a handsome price for an elephant's tusk worth + ten pounds. At our last interview old Shinte pointed out our principal + guide, Intemese, a man about fifty, who was, he said, ordered to remain by + us till we should reach the sea; that I had now left Sekeletu far behind, + and must henceforth look to Shinte alone for aid, and that it would always + be most cheerfully rendered. This was only a polite way of expressing his + wishes for my success. It was the good words only of the guides which were + to aid me from the next chief, Katema, on to the sea; they were to turn + back on reaching him; but he gave a good supply of food for the journey + before us, and, after mentioning as a reason for letting us go even now + that no one could say we had been driven away from the town, since we had + been several days with him, he gave a most hearty salutation, and we + parted with the wish that God might bless him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 17. + </h2> + <p> + Leave Shinte—Manioc Gardens—Mode of preparing the poisonous + kind—Its general Use—Presents of Food—Punctiliousness of + the Balonda— Their Idols and Superstition—Dress of the Balonda—Villages + beyond Lonaje—Cazembe—Our Guides and the Makololo—Night + Rains—Inquiries for English cotton Goods—Intemese's Fiction—Visit + from an old Man—Theft—Industry of our Guide—Loss of + Pontoon—Plains covered with Water—Affection of the Balonda for + their Mothers—A Night on an Island—The Grass on the Plains—Source + of the Rivers—Loan of the Roofs of Huts—A Halt—Fertility + of the Country through which the Lokalueje flows—Omnivorous Fish—Natives' + Mode of catching them— The Village of a Half-brother of Katema, his + Speech and Present—Our Guide's Perversity—Mozenkwa's pleasant + Home and Family—Clear Water of the flooded Rivers—A Messenger + from Katema—Quendende's Village: his Kindness—Crop of Wool—Meet + People from the Town of Matiamvo—Fireside Talk—Matiamvo's + Character and Conduct—Presentation at Katema's Court: his Present, + good Sense, and Appearance—Interview on the following Day—Cattle—A + Feast and a Makololo Dance—Arrest of a Fugitive— Dignified old + Courtier—Katema's lax Government—Cold Wind from the North—Canaries + and other singing Birds—Spiders, their Nests and Webs—Lake + Dilolo—Tradition—Sagacity of Ants. + </p> + <p> + 26TH. Leaving Shinte, with eight of his men to aid in carrying our + luggage, we passed, in a northerly direction, down the lovely valley on + which the town stands, then went a little to the west through pretty open + forest, and slept at a village of Balonda. In the morning we had a fine + range of green hills, called Saloisho, on our right, and were informed + that they were rather thickly inhabited by the people of Shinte, who + worked in iron, the ore of which abounds in these hills. + </p> + <p> + The country through which we passed possessed the same general character + of flatness and forest that we noticed before. The soil is dark, with a + tinge of red—in some places it might be called red—and + appeared very fertile. Every valley contained villages of twenty or thirty + huts, with gardens of manioc, which here is looked upon as the staff of + life. Very little labor is required for its cultivation. The earth is + drawn up into oblong beds, about three feet broad and one in height, and + in these are planted pieces of the manioc stalk, at four feet apart. A + crop of beans or ground-nuts is sown between them, and when these are + reaped the land around the manioc is cleared of weeds. In from ten to + eighteen months after planting, according to the quality of the soil, the + roots are fit for food. There is no necessity for reaping soon, as the + roots do not become bitter and dry until after three years. When a woman + takes up the roots, she thrusts a piece or two of the upper stalks into + the hole she has made, draws back the soil, and a new crop is thereby + begun. The plant grows to a height of six feet, and every part of it is + useful: the leaves may be cooked as a vegetable. The roots are from three + to four inches in diameter, and from twelve to eighteen inches long. + </p> + <p> + There are two varieties of the manioc or cassava—one sweet and + wholesome, the other bitter and containing poison, but much more speedy in + its growth than the former. This last property causes its perpetuation. + When we reached the village of Kapende, on the banks of the rivulet + Lonaje, we were presented with so much of the poisonous kind that we were + obliged to leave it. To get rid of the poison, the people place it four + days in a pool of water. It then becomes partially decomposed, and is + taken out, stripped of its skin, and exposed to the sun. When dried, it is + easily pounded into a fine white meal, closely resembling starch, which + has either a little of the peculiar taste arising from decomposition, or + no more flavor than starch. When intended to be used as food, this meal is + stirred into boiling water: they put in as much as can be moistened, one + man holding the vessel and the other stirring the porridge with all his + might. This is the common mess of the country. Though hungry, we could + just manage to swallow it with the aid of a little honey, which I shared + with my men as long as it lasted. It is very unsavory (Scottice: wersh); + and no matter how much one may eat, two hours afterward he is as hungry as + ever. When less meal is employed, the mess is exactly like a basin of + starch in the hands of a laundress; and if the starch were made from + diseased potatoes, some idea might be formed of the Balonda porridge, + which hunger alone forced us to eat. Santuru forbade his nobles to eat it, + as it caused coughing and expectoration. + </p> + <p> + Our chief guide, Intemese, sent orders to all the villages around our + route that Shinte's friends must have abundance of provisions. Our + progress was impeded by the time requisite for communicating the chief's + desire and consequent preparation of meal. We received far more food from + Shinte's people than from himself. Kapende, for instance, presented two + large baskets of meal, three of manioc roots steeped and dried in the sun + and ready to be converted into flour, three fowls, and seven eggs, with + three smoke-dried fishes; and others gave with similar liberality. I gave + to the head men small bunches of my stock of beads, with an apology that + we were now on our way to the market for these goods. The present was + always politely received. + </p> + <p> + We had an opportunity of observing that our guides had much more etiquette + than any of the tribes farther south. They gave us food, but would not + partake of it when we had cooked it, nor would they eat their own food in + our presence. When it was cooked they retired into a thicket and ate their + porridge; then all stood up, and clapped their hands, and praised Intemese + for it. The Makololo, who are accustomed to the most free and easy + manners, held out handfuls of what they had cooked to any of the Balonda + near, but they refused to taste. They are very punctilious in their + manners to each other. Each hut has its own fire, and when it goes out + they make it afresh for themselves rather than take it from a neighbor. I + believe much of this arises from superstitious fears. In the deep, dark + forests near each village, as already mentioned, you see idols intended to + represent the human head or a lion, or a crooked stick smeared with + medicine, or simply a small pot of medicine in a little shed, or miniature + huts with little mounds of earth in them. But in the darker recesses we + meet with human faces cut in the bark of trees, the outlines of which, + with the beards, closely resemble those seen on Egyptian monuments. + Frequent cuts are made on the trees along all the paths, and offerings of + small pieces of manioc roots or ears of maize are placed on branches. + There are also to be seen every few miles heaps of sticks, which are + treated in cairn fashion, by every one throwing a small branch to the heap + in passing; or a few sticks are placed on the path, and each passer-by + turns from his course, and forms a sudden bend in the road to one side. It + seems as if their minds were ever in doubt and dread in these gloomy + recesses of the forest, and that they were striving to propitiate, by + their offerings, some superior beings residing there. + </p> + <p> + The dress of the Balonda men consists of the softened skins of small + animals, as the jackal or wild cat, hung before and behind from a girdle + round the loins. The dress of the women is of a nondescript character; but + they were not immodest. They stood before us as perfectly unconscious of + any indecorum as we could be with our clothes on. But, while ignorant of + their own deficiency, they could not maintain their gravity at the sight + of the nudity of my men behind. Much to the annoyance of my companions, + the young girls laughed outright whenever their backs were turned to them. + </p> + <p> + After crossing the Lonaje, we came to some pretty villages, embowered, as + the negro villages usually are, in bananas, shrubs, and manioc, and near + the banks of the Leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of serpents, one + of which bit one of our men, but the wound was harmless. The people of the + surrounding villages presented us with large quantities of food, in + obedience to the mandate of Shinte, without expecting any equivalent. One + village had lately been transferred hither from the country of Matiamvo. + They, of course, continue to acknowledge him as paramount chief; but the + frequent instances which occur of people changing from one part of the + country to another, show that the great chiefs possess only a limited + power. The only peculiarity we observed in these people is the habit of + plaiting the beard into a three-fold cord. + </p> + <p> + The town of the Balonda chief Cazembe was pointed out to us as lying to + the N.E. and by E. from the town of Shinte, and great numbers of people in + this quarter have gone thither for the purpose of purchasing copper + anklets, made at Cazembe's, and report the distance to be about five days' + journey. I made inquiries of some of the oldest inhabitants of the + villages at which we were staying respecting the visit of Pereira and + Lacerda to that town. An old gray-headed man replied that they had often + heard of white men before, but never had seen one, and added that one had + come to Cazembe when our informant was young, and returned again without + entering this part of the country. The people of Cazembe are Balonda or + Baloi, and his country has been termed Londa, Lunda, or Lui, by the + Portuguese. + </p> + <p> + It was always difficult to get our guides to move away from a place. With + the authority of the chief, they felt as comfortable as king's messengers + could, and were not disposed to forego the pleasure of living at free + quarters. My Makololo friends were but ill drilled as yet; and since they + had never left their own country before, except for purposes of plunder, + they did not take readily to the peaceful system we now meant to follow. + They either spoke too imperiously to strangers, or, when reproved for + that, were disposed to follow the dictation of every one we met. When + Intemese, our guide, refused to stir toward the Leeba on the 31st of + January, they would make no effort to induce him to go; but, having + ordered them to get ready, Intemese saw the preparations, and soon + followed the example. It took us about four hours to cross the Leeba, + which is considerably smaller here than where we left it—indeed, + only about a hundred yards wide. It has the same dark mossy hue. The + villagers lent us canoes to effect our passage; and, having gone to a + village about two miles beyond the river, I had the satisfaction of + getting observations for both longitude and latitude—for the former, + the distance between Saturn and the Moon, and for the latter a meridian + altitude of Canopus. Long. 22d 57' E., lat. 12d 6' 6" S. + </p> + <p> + These were the only opportunities I had of ascertaining my whereabouts in + this part of Londa. Again and again did I take out the instruments, and, + just as all was right, the stars would be suddenly obscured by clouds. I + had never observed so great an amount of cloudiness in any part of the + south country; and as for the rains, I believe that years at Kolobeng + would not have made my little tent so rotten and thin as one month had + done in Londa. I never observed in the south the heavy night and early + morning rains we had in this country. They often continued all night, then + became heavier about an hour before dawn. Or if fair during the night, as + day drew nigh, an extremely heavy, still, pouring rain set in without + warning. Five out of every six days we had this pouring rain, at or near + break of day, for months together; and it soon beat my tent so thin, that + a mist fell through on my face and made every thing damp. The rains were + occasionally, but not always, accompanied with very loud thunder. + </p> + <p> + FEBRUARY 1ST. This day we had a fine view of two hills called Piri + (Peeri), meaning "two", on the side of the river we had left. The country + there is named Mokwankwa. And there Intemese informed us one of Shinte's + children was born, when he was in his progress southward from the country + of Matiamvo. This part of the country would thus seem not to have been + inhabited by the people of Shinte at any very remote period. He told me + himself that he had come into his present country by command of Matiamvo. + </p> + <p> + Here we were surprised to hear English cotton cloth much more eagerly + inquired after than beads and ornaments. They are more in need of clothing + than the Bechuana tribes living adjacent to the Kalahari Desert, who have + plenty of skins for the purpose. Animals of all kinds are rare here, and a + very small piece of calico is of great value. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of the heavy rain, which continued all the morning, Intemese + sent to say he was laid up with pains in the stomach, and must not be + disturbed; but when it cleared up, about eleven, I saw our friend walking + off to the village, and talking with a very loud voice. On reproaching him + for telling an untruth, he turned it off with a laugh by saying he really + had a complaint in his stomach, which I might cure by slaughtering one of + the oxen and allowing him to eat beef. He was evidently reveling in the + abundance of good food the chief's orders brought us; and he did not feel + the shame I did when I gave a few beads only in return for large baskets + of meal. + </p> + <p> + A very old man visited us here with a present of maize: like the others, + he had never before seen a white man, and, when conversing with him, some + of the young men remarked that they were the true ancients, for they had + now seen more wonderful things than their forefathers. + </p> + <p> + One of Intemese's men stole a fowl given me by a lady of the village. When + charged with the theft, every one of Intemese's party vociferated his + innocence and indignation at being suspected, continuing their loud + asseverations and gesticulations for some minutes. One of my men, Loyanke, + went off to the village, brought the lady who had presented the fowl to + identify it, and then pointed to the hut in which it was hidden. The + Balonda collected round him, evincing great wrath; but Loyanke seized his + battle-axe in the proper manner for striking, and, placing himself on a + little hillock, soon made them moderate their tones. Intemese then called + on me to send one of my people to search the huts if I suspected his + people. The man sent soon found it, and brought it out, to the confusion + of Intemese and the laughter of our party. This incident is mentioned to + show that the greater superstition which exists here does not lead to the + practice of the virtues. We never met an instance like this of theft from + a white man among the Makololo, though they complain of the Makalaka as + addicted to pilfering. The honesty of the Bakwains has been already + noticed. Probably the estimation in which I was held as a public + benefactor, in which character I was not yet known to the Balonda, may + account for the sacredness with which my property was always treated + before. But other incidents which happened subsequently showed, as well as + this, that idolaters are not so virtuous as those who have no idols. + </p> + <p> + As the people on the banks of the Leeba were the last of Shinte's tribe + over which Intemese had power, he was naturally anxious to remain as long + as possible. He was not idle, but made a large wooden mortar and pestle + for his wife during our journey. He also carved many wooden spoons and a + bowl; then commenced a basket; but as what he considered good living was + any thing but agreeable to us, who had been accustomed to milk and maize, + we went forward on the 2d without him. He soon followed, but left our + pontoon, saying it would be brought by the head man of the village. This + was a great loss, as we afterward found; it remained at this village more + than a year, and when we returned a mouse had eaten a hole in it. + </p> + <p> + We entered on an extensive plain beyond the Leeba, at least twenty miles + broad, and covered with water, ankle deep in the shallowest parts. We + deviated somewhat from our N.W. course by the direction of Intemese, and + kept the hills Piri nearly on our right during a great part of the first + day, in order to avoid the still more deeply flooded plains of Lobale + (Luval?) on the west. These, according to Intemese, are at present + impassable on account of being thigh deep. The plains are so perfectly + level that rain-water, which this was, stands upon them for months + together. They were not flooded by the Leeba, for that was still far + within its banks. Here and there, dotted over the surface, are little + islands, on which grow stunted date-bushes and scraggy trees. The plains + themselves are covered with a thick sward of grass, which conceals the + water, and makes the flats appear like great pale yellow-colored + prairie-lands, with a clear horizon, except where interrupted here and + there by trees. The clear rain-water must have stood some time among the + grass, for great numbers of lotus-flowers were seen in full blow; and the + runs of water tortoises and crabs were observed; other animals also, which + prey on the fish that find their way to the plains. + </p> + <p> + The continual splashing of the oxen keeps the feet of the rider constantly + wet, and my men complain of the perpetual moisture of the paths by which + we have traveled in Londa as softening their horny soles. The only + information we can glean is from Intemese, who points out the different + localities as we pass along, and among the rest "Mokala a Mama", his + "mamma's home". It was interesting to hear this tall gray-headed man + recall the memories of boyhood. All the Makalaka children cleave to the + mother in cases of separation, or removal from one part of the country to + another. This love for mothers does not argue superior morality in other + respects, or else Intemese has forgotten any injunctions his mamma may + have given him not to tell lies. The respect, however, with which he spoke + of her was quite characteristic of his race. The Bechuanas, on the + contrary, care nothing for their mothers, but cling to their fathers, + especially if they have any expectation of becoming heirs to their cattle. + Our Bakwain guide to the lake, Rachosi, told me that his mother lived in + the country of Sebituane, but, though a good specimen of the Bechuanas, he + laughed at the idea of going so far as from the Lake Ngami to the Chobe + merely for the purpose of seeing her. Had he been one of the Makalaka, he + never would have parted from her. + </p> + <p> + We made our beds on one of the islands, and were wretchedly supplied with + firewood. The booths constructed by the men were but sorry shelter, for + the rain poured down without intermission till midday. There is no + drainage for the prodigious masses of water on these plains, except slow + percolation into the different feeders of the Leeba, and into that river + itself. The quantity of vegetation has prevented the country from becoming + furrowed by many rivulets or "nullahs". Were it not so remarkably flat, + the drainage must have been effected by torrents, even in spite of the + matted vegetation. + </p> + <p> + That these extensive plains are covered with grasses only, and the little + islands with but scraggy trees, may be accounted for by the fact, + observable every where in this country, that, where water stands for any + length of time, trees can not live. The want of speedy drainage destroys + them, and injures the growth of those that are planted on the islands, for + they have no depth of earth not subjected to the souring influence of the + stagnant water. The plains of Lobale, to the west of these, are said to be + much more extensive than any we saw, and their vegetation possesses + similar peculiarities. When the stagnant rain-water has all soaked in, as + must happen during the months in which there is no rain, travelers are + even put to straits for want of water. This is stated on native testimony; + but I can very well believe that level plains, in which neither wells nor + gullies are met with, may, after the dry season, present the opposite + extreme to what we witnessed. Water, however, could always be got by + digging, a proof of which we had on our return when brought to a stand on + this very plain by severe fever: about twelve miles from the Kasai my men + dug down a few feet, and found an abundant supply; and we saw on one of + the islands the garden of a man who, in the dry season, had drunk water + from a well in like manner. Plains like these can not be inhabited while + the present system of cultivation lasts. The population is not yet so very + large as to need them. They find garden-ground enough on the gentle slopes + at the sides of the rivulets, and possess no cattle to eat off the + millions of acres of fine hay we were now wading through. Any one who has + visited the Cape Colony will understand me when I say that these immense + crops resemble sown grasses more than the tufty vegetation of the south. + </p> + <p> + I would here request the particular attention of the reader to the + phenomena these periodically deluged plains present, because they have a + most important bearing on the physical geography of a very large portion + of this country. The plains of Lobale, to the west of this, give rise to a + great many streams, which unite, and form the deep, never-failing Chobe. + Similar extensive flats give birth to the Loeti and Kasai, and, as we + shall see further on, all the rivers of an extensive region owe their + origin to oozing bogs, and not to fountains. + </p> + <p> + When released from our island by the rain ceasing, we marched on till we + came to a ridge of dry inhabited land in the N.W. The inhabitants, + according to custom, lent us the roofs of some huts to save the men the + trouble of booth-making. I suspect that the story in Park's "Travels", of + the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion, referred to the roof + only. We leave them for the villagers to replace at their leisure. No + payment is expected for the use of them. By night it rained so copiously + that all our beds were flooded from below; and from this time forth we + always made a furrow round each booth, and used the earth to raise our + sleeping-places. My men turned out to work in the wet most willingly; + indeed, they always did. I could not but contrast their conduct with that + of Intemese. He was thoroughly imbued with the slave spirit, and lied on + all occasions without compunction. Untruthfulness is a sort of refuge for + the weak and oppressed. We expected to move on the 4th, but he declared + that we were so near Katema's, if we did not send forward to apprise that + chief of our approach, he would certainly impose a fine. It rained the + whole day, so we were reconciled to the delay; but on Sunday, the 5th, he + let us know that we were still two days distant from Katema. We + unfortunately could not manage without him, for the country was so + deluged, we should have been brought to a halt before we went many miles + by some deep valley, every one of which was full of water. Intemese + continued to plait his basket with all his might, and would not come to + our religious service. He seemed to be afraid of our incantations, but was + always merry and jocular. + </p> + <p> + 6TH. Soon after starting we crossed a branch of the Lokalueje by means of + a canoe, and in the afternoon passed over the main stream by a like + conveyance. The former, as is the case with all branches of rivers in this + country, is called nyuana Kalueje (child of the Kalueje). Hippopotami + exist in the Lokalueje, so it may be inferred to be perennial, as the + inhabitants asserted. We can not judge of the size of the stream from what + we now saw. It had about forty yards of deep, fast-flowing water, but + probably not more than half that amount in the dry season. Besides these, + we crossed numerous feeders in our N.N.W. course, and, there being no + canoes, got frequently wet in the course of the day. The oxen in some + places had their heads only above water, and the stream, flowing over + their backs, wetted our blankets, which we used as saddles. The arm-pit + was the only safe spot for carrying the watch, for there it was preserved + from rains above and waters below. The men on foot crossed these gullies + holding up their burdens at arms' length. + </p> + <p> + The Lokalueje winds from northeast to southwest into the Leeba. The + country adjacent to its banks is extremely fine and fertile, with here and + there patches of forest or clumps of magnificent trees. The villagers + through whose gardens we passed continue to sow and reap all the year + round. The grains, as maize, lotsa ('Pennisetum typhoideum'), lokesh or + millet, are to be seen at all stages of their growth—some just ripe, + while at this time the Makololo crops are not half grown. My companions, + who have a good idea of the different qualities of soils, expressed the + greatest admiration of the agricultural capabilities of the whole of + Londa, and here they were loud in their praises of the pasturage. They + have an accurate idea of the varieties of grasses best adapted for + different kinds of stock, and lament because here there are no cows to + feed off the rich green crop, which at this time imparts special beauty to + the landscape. + </p> + <p> + Great numbers of the omnivorous feeding fish, 'Glanis siluris', or mosala, + spread themselves over the flooded plains, and, as the waters retire, try + to find their way back again to the rivers. The Balonda make earthen dikes + and hedges across the outlets of the retreating waters, leaving only small + spaces through which the chief part of the water flows. In these open + spaces they plant creels, similar in shape to our own, into which the fish + can enter, but can not return. They secure large quantities of fish in + this way, which, when smoke-dried, make a good relish for their otherwise + insipid food. They use also a weir of mats made of reeds sewed together, + with but half an inch between each. Open spaces are left for the insertion + of the creels as before. + </p> + <p> + In still water, a fish-trap is employed of the same shape and plan as the + common round wire mouse-trap, which has an opening surrounded with wires + pointing inward. This is made of reeds and supple wands, and food is + placed inside to attract the fish. + </p> + <p> + Besides these means of catching fish, they use a hook of iron without a + barb; the point is bent inward instead, so as not to allow the fish to + escape. Nets are not so common as in the Zouga and Leeambye, but they kill + large quantities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a shrub, + which may be seen planted beside every village in the country. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th we came to the village of Soana Molopo, a half-brother of + Katema, a few miles beyond the Lokalueje. When we went to visit him, we + found him sitting with about one hundred men. He called on Intemese to + give some account of us, though no doubt it had been done in private + before. He then pronounced the following sentences: "The journey of the + white man is very proper, but Shinte has disturbed us by showing the path + to the Makololo who accompany him. He ought to have taken them through the + country without showing them the towns. We are afraid of the Makololo." He + then gave us a handsome present of food, and seemed perplexed by my + sitting down familiarly, and giving him a few of our ideas. When we left, + Intemese continued busily imparting an account of all we had given to + Shinte and Masiko, and instilling the hope that Soana Molopo might obtain + as much as they had received. Accordingly, when we expected to move on the + morning of the 8th, we got some hints about the ox which Soana Molopo + expected to eat, but we recommended him to get the breed of cattle for + himself, seeing his country was so well adapted for rearing stock. + Intemese also refused to move; he, moreover, tried to frighten us into + parting with an ox by saying that Soana Molopo would send forward a + message that we were a marauding party; but we packed up and went on + without him. We did not absolutely need him, but he was useful in + preventing the inhabitants of secluded villages from betaking themselves + to flight. We wished to be on good terms with all, and therefore put up + with our guide's peccadilloes. His good word respecting us had + considerable influence, and he was always asked if we had behaved + ourselves like men on the way. The Makololo are viewed as great savages, + but Intemese could not justly look with scorn on them, for he has the mark + of a large gash on his arm, got in fighting; and he would never tell the + cause of battle, but boasted of his powers as the Makololo do, till asked + about a scar on his back, betokening any thing but bravery. + </p> + <p> + Intemese was useful in cases like that of Monday, when we came upon a + whole village in a forest enjoying their noonday nap. Our sudden + appearance in their midst so terrified them that one woman nearly went + into convulsions from fear. When they saw and heard Intemese, their terror + subsided. + </p> + <p> + As usual, we were caught by rains after leaving Soana Molopo's, and made + our booths at the house of Mozinkwa, a most intelligent and friendly man + belonging to Katema. He had a fine large garden in cultivation, and well + hedged round. He had made the walls of his compound, or court-yard, of + branches of the banian, which, taking root, had grown to be a live hedge + of that tree. Mozinkwa's wife had cotton growing all round her premises, + and several plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of the + country. She cultivated also the common castor-oil plant, and a larger + shrub ('Jatropha curcas'), which also yields a purgative oil. Here, + however, the oil is used for anointing the heads and bodies alone. We saw + in her garden likewise the Indian bringalls, yams, and sweet potatoes. + Several trees were planted in the middle of the yard, and in the deep + shade they gave stood the huts of his fine family. His children, all by + one mother, very black, but comely to view, were the finest negro family I + ever saw. We were much pleased with the frank friendship and liberality of + this man and his wife. She asked me to bring her a cloth from the white + man's country; but, when we returned, poor Mozinkwa's wife was in her + grave, and he, as is the custom, had abandoned trees, garden, and huts to + ruin. They can not live on a spot where a favorite wife has died, probably + because unable to bear the remembrance of the happy times they have spent + there, or afraid to remain in a spot where death has once visited the + establishment. If ever the place is revisited, it is to pray to her, or + make some offering. This feeling renders any permanent village in the + country impossible. + </p> + <p> + We learned from Mozinkwa that Soana Molopo was the elder brother of + Katema, but that he was wanting in wisdom; and Katema, by purchasing + cattle and receiving in a kind manner all the fugitives who came to him, + had secured the birthright to himself, so far as influence in the country + is concerned. Soana's first address to us did not savor much of African + wisdom. + </p> + <p> + FRIDAY, 10TH. On leaving Mozinkwa's hospitable mansion we crossed another + stream, about forty yards wide, in canoes. While this tedious process was + going on, I was informed that it is called the Mona-Kalueje, or brother of + Kalueje, as it flows into that river; that both the Kalueje and Livoa flow + into the Leeba; and that the Chifumadze, swollen by the Lotembwa, is a + feeder of that river also, below the point where we lately crossed it. It + may be remarked here that these rivers were now in flood, and that the + water was all perfectly clear. The vegetation on the banks is so thickly + planted that the surface of the earth is not abraded by the torrents. The + grass is laid flat, and forms a protection to the banks, which are + generally a stiff black loam. The fact of canoes being upon them shows + that, though not large, they are not like the southern rivulets, which dry + up during most of the year, and render canoes unnecessary. + </p> + <p> + As we were crossing the river we were joined by a messenger from Katema, + called Shakatwala. This person was a sort of steward or factotum to his + chief. Every chief has one attached to his person, and, though generally + poor, they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability. They act + the part of messengers on all important occasions, and possess + considerable authority in the chief's household. Shakatwala informed us + that Katema had not received precise information about us, but if we were + peaceably disposed, as he loved strangers, we were to come to his town. We + proceeded forthwith, but were turned aside, by the strategy of our friend + Intemese, to the village of Quendende, the father-in-law of Katema. This + fine old man was so very polite that we did not regret being obliged to + spend Sunday at his village. He expressed his pleasure at having a share + in the honor of a visit as well as Katema, though it seemed to me that the + conferring that pleasure required something like a pretty good stock of + impudence, in leading twenty-seven men through the country without the + means of purchasing food. My men did a little business for themselves in + the begging line; they generally commenced every interview with new + villagers by saying "I have come from afar; give me something to eat." I + forbade this at first, believing that, as the Makololo had a bad name, the + villagers gave food from fear. But, after some time, it was evident that + in many cases maize and manioc were given from pure generosity. The first + time I came to this conclusion was at the house of Mozinkwa; scarcely any + one of my men returned from it without something in his hand; and as they + protested they had not begged, I asked himself, and found that it was the + case, and that he had given spontaneously. In other parts the chiefs + attended to my wants, and the common people gave liberally to my men. I + presented some of my razors and iron spoons to different head men, but my + men had nothing to give; yet every one tried to appropriate an individual + in each village as "Molekane", or comrade, and the villagers often + assented; so, if the reader remembers the molekane system of the Mopato, + he may perceive that those who presented food freely would expect the + Makololo to treat them in like manner, should they ever be placed in + similar circumstances. Their country is so fertile that they are in no + want of food themselves; however, their generosity was remarkable; only + one woman refused to give some of my men food, but her husband calling out + to her to be more liberal, she obeyed, scolding all the while. + </p> + <p> + In this part of the country, buffaloes, elands, koodoos, and various + antelopes are to be found, but we did not get any, as they are exceedingly + wary from being much hunted. We had the same woodland and meadow as + before, with here and there pleasant negro villages; and being all in good + health, could enjoy the fine green scenery. + </p> + <p> + Quendende's head was a good specimen of the greater crop of wool with + which the negroes of Londa are furnished. The front was parted in the + middle, and plaited into two thick rolls, which, falling down behind the + ears, reached the shoulders; the rest was collected into a large knot, + which lay on the nape of the neck. As he was an intelligent man, we had + much conversation together: he had just come from attending the funeral of + one of his people, and I found that the great amount of drum-beating which + takes place on these occasions was with the idea that the Barimo, or + spirits, could be drummed to sleep. There is a drum in every village, and + we often hear it going from sunset to sunrise. They seem to look upon the + departed as vindictive beings, and, I suspect, are more influenced by fear + than by love. In beginning to speak on religious subjects with those who + have never heard of Christianity, the great fact of the Son of God having + come down from heaven to die for us is the prominent theme. No fact more + striking can be mentioned. "He actually came to men. He himself told us + about his Father, and the dwelling-place whither he has gone. We have his + words in this book, and he really endured punishment in our stead from + pure love," etc. If this fails to interest them, nothing else will + succeed. + </p> + <p> + We here met with some people just arrived from the town of Matiamvo (Muata + yanvo), who had been sent to announce the death of the late chieftain of + that name. Matiamvo is the hereditary title, muata meaning lord or chief. + The late Matiamvo seems, from the report of these men, to have become + insane, for he is said to have sometimes indulged the whim of running a + muck in the town and beheading whomsoever he met, until he had quite a + heap of human heads. Matiamvo explained this conduct by saying that his + people were too many, and he wanted to diminish them. He had absolute + power of life and death. On inquiring whether human sacrifices were still + made, as in the time of Pereira, at Cazembe's, we were informed that these + had never been so common as was represented to Pereira, but that it + occasionally happened, when certain charms were needed by the chief, that + a man was slaughtered for the sake of some part of his body. He added that + he hoped the present chief would not act like his (mad) predecessor, but + kill only those who were guilty of witchcraft or theft. These men were + very much astonished at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo; and when they + found that all my people held cattle, we were told that Matiamvo alone had + a herd. One very intelligent man among them asked, "If he should make a + canoe, and take it down the river to the Makololo, would he get a cow for + it?" This question, which my men answered in the affirmative, was + important, as showing the knowledge of a water communication from the + country of Matiamvo to the Makololo; and the river runs through a fertile + country abounding in large timber. If the tribes have intercourse with + each other, it exerts a good influence on their chiefs to hear what other + tribes think of their deeds. The Makololo have such a bad name, on account + of their perpetual forays, that they have not been known in Londa except + as ruthless destroyers. The people in Matiamvo's country submit to much + wrong from their chiefs, and no voice can be raised against cruelty, + because they are afraid to flee elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + We left Quendende's village in company with Quendende himself, and the + principal man of the embassadors of Matiamvo, and after two or three + miles' march to the N.W., came to the ford of the Lotembwa, which flows + southward. A canoe was waiting to ferry us over, but it was very tedious + work; for, though the river itself was only eighty yards wide, the whole + valley was flooded, and we were obliged to paddle more than half a mile to + get free of the water. A fire was lit to warm old Quendende, and enable + him to dry his tobacco-leaves. The leaves are taken from the plant, and + spread close to the fire until they are quite dry and crisp; they are then + put into a snuff-box, which, with a little pestle, serves the purpose of a + mill to grind them into powder; it is then used as snuff. As we sat by the + fire, the embassadors communicated their thoughts freely respecting the + customs of their race. When a chief dies, a number of servants are + slaughtered with him to form his company in the other world. The Barotse + followed the same custom, and this and other usages show them to be + genuine negroes, though neither they nor the Balonda resemble closely the + typical form of that people. Quendende said if he were present on these + occasions he would hide his people, so that they might not be slaughtered. + As we go north, the people become more bloodily superstitious. + </p> + <p> + We were assured that if the late Matiamvo took a fancy to any thing, such, + for instance, as my watch-chain, which was of silver wire, and was a great + curiosity, as they had never seen metal plaited before, he would order a + whole village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger. When a + slave-trader visited him, he took possession of all his goods; then, after + ten days or a fortnight, he would send out a party of men to pounce upon + some considerable village, and, having killed the head man, would pay for + all the goods by selling the inhabitants. This has frequently been the + case, and nearly all the visitants he ever had were men of color. On + asking if Matiamvo did not know he was a man, and would be judged, in + company with those he destroyed, by a Lord who is no respector of persons? + the embassador replied, "We do not go up to God, as you do; we are put + into the ground." I could not ascertain that even those who have such a + distinct perception of the continued existence of departed spirits had any + notion of heaven; they appear to imagine the souls to be always near the + place of sepulture. + </p> + <p> + After crossing the River Lotembwa we traveled about eight miles, and came + to Katema's straggling town (lat. 11d 35' 49" S., long. 22d 27' E.). It is + more a collection of villages than a town. We were led out about half a + mile from the houses, that we might make for ourselves the best lodging we + could of the trees and grass, while Intemese was taken to Katema to + undergo the usual process of pumping as to our past conduct and + professions. Katema soon afterward sent a handsome present of food. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we had a formal presentation, and found Katema seated on a + sort of throne, with about three hundred men on the ground around, and + thirty women, who were said to be his wives, close behind him. The main + body of the people were seated in a semicircle, at a distance of fifty + yards. Each party had its own head man stationed at a little distance in + front, and, when beckoned by the chief, came near him as councilors. + Intemese gave our history, and Katema placed sixteen large baskets of meal + before us, half a dozen fowls, and a dozen eggs, and expressed regret that + we had slept hungry: he did not like any stranger to suffer want in his + town; and added, "Go home, and cook and eat, and you will then be in a fit + state to speak to me at an audience I will give you to-morrow." He was + busily engaged in hearing the statements of a large body of fine young men + who had fled from Kangenke, chief of Lobale, on account of his selling + their relatives to the native Portuguese who frequent his country. Katema + is a tall man, about forty years of age, and his head was ornamented with + a helmet of beads and feathers. He had on a snuff-brown coat, with a broad + band of tinsel down the arms, and carried in his hand a large tail made of + the caudal extremities of a number of gnus. This has charms attached to + it, and he continued waving it in front of himself all the time we were + there. He seemed in good spirits, laughing heartily several times. This is + a good sign, for a man who shakes his sides with mirth is seldom difficult + to deal with. When we rose to take leave, all rose with us, as at + Shinte's. + </p> + <p> + Returning next morning, Katema addressed me thus: "I am the great Moene + (lord) Katema, the fellow of Matiamvo. There is no one in the country + equal to Matiamvo and me. I have always lived here, and my forefathers + too. There is the house in which my father lived. You found no human + skulls near the place where you are encamped. I never killed any of the + traders; they all come to me. I am the great Moene Katema, of whom you + have heard." He looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy, and dreamed of + his greatness. On explaining my objects to him, he promptly pointed out + three men who would be our guides, and explained that the northwest path + was the most direct, and that by which all traders came, but that the + water at present standing on the plains would reach up to the loins; he + would therefore send us by a more northerly route, which no trader had yet + traversed. This was more suited to our wishes, for we never found a path + safe that had been trodden by slave-traders. + </p> + <p> + We presented a few articles, which pleased him highly: a small shawl, a + razor, three bunches of beads, some buttons, and a powder-horn. + Apologizing for the insignificance of the gift, I wished to know what I + could bring him from Loanda, saying, not a large thing, but something + small. He laughed heartily at the limitation, and replied, "Every thing of + the white people would be acceptable, and he would receive any thing + thankfully; but the coat he then had on was old, and he would like + another." I introduced the subject of the Bible, but one of the old + councilors broke in, told all he had picked up from the Mambari, and + glided off into several other subjects. It is a misery to speak through an + interpreter, as I was now forced to do. With a body of men like mine, + composed as they were of six different tribes, and all speaking the + language of the Bechuanas, there was no difficulty in communicating on + common subjects with any tribe we came to; but doling out a story in which + they felt no interest, and which I understood only sufficiently well to + perceive that a mere abridgment was given, was uncommonly slow work. + Neither could Katema's attention be arrested, except by compliments, of + which they have always plenty to bestow as well as receive. We were + strangers, and knew that, as Makololo, we had not the best of characters, + yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and liberal. + </p> + <p> + I complimented him on the possession of cattle, and pleased him by telling + him how he might milk the cows. He has a herd of about thirty, really + splendid animals, all reared from two which he bought from the Balobale + when he was young. They are generally of a white color, and are quite + wild, running off with graceful ease like a herd of elands on the approach + of a stranger. They excited the unbounded admiration of the Makololo, and + clearly proved that the country was well adapted for them. When Katema + wishes to slaughter one, he is obliged to shoot it as if it were a + buffalo. Matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle in a similar state. + I never could feel certain as to the reason why they do not all possess + cattle in a country containing such splendid pasturage. + </p> + <p> + As Katema did not offer an ox, as would have been done by a Makololo or + Caffre chief, we slaughtered one of our own, and all of us were delighted + to get a meal of meat, after subsisting so long on the light porridge and + green maize of Londa. On occasions of slaughtering an animal, some pieces + of it are in the fire before the skin is all removed from the body. A + frying-pan full of these pieces having been got quickly ready, my men + crowded about their father, and I handed some all round. It was a strange + sight to the Balonda, who were looking on, wondering. I offered portions + to them too, but these were declined, though they are excessively fond of + a little animal food to eat with their vegetable diet. They would not eat + with us, but they would take the meat and cook it in their own way, and + then use it. I thought at one time that they had imported something from + the Mohammedans, and the more especially as an exclamation of surprise, + "Allah", sounds like the Illah of the Arabs; but we found, a little + farther on, another form of salutation, of Christian (?) origin, "Ave-rie" + (Ave Marie). The salutations probably travel farther than the faith. My + people, when satisfied with a meal like that which they enjoy so often at + home, amused themselves by an uproarious dance. Katema sent to ask what I + had given them to produce so much excitement. Intemese replied it was + their custom, and they meant no harm. The companion of the ox we + slaughtered refused food for two days, and went lowing about for him + continually. He seemed inconsolable for his loss, and tried again and + again to escape back to the Makololo country. My men remarked, "He thinks + they will kill me as well as my friend." Katema thought it the result of + art, and had fears of my skill in medicine, and of course witchcraft. He + refused to see the magic lantern. + </p> + <p> + One of the affairs which had been intrusted by Shinte to Intemese was the + rescue of a wife who had eloped with a young man belonging to Katema. As + this was the only case I have met with in the interior in which a fugitive + was sent back to a chief against his own will, I am anxious to mention it. + On Intemese claiming her as his master's wife, she protested loudly + against it, saying "she knew she was not going back to be a wife again; + she was going back to be sold to the Mambari." My men formed many + friendships with the people of Katema, and some of the poorer classes said + in confidence, "We wish our children could go back with you to the + Makololo country; here we are all in danger of being sold." My men were of + opinion that it was only the want of knowledge of the southern country + which prevented an exodus of all the lower portions of Londa population + thither. + </p> + <p> + It is remarkable how little people living in a flat forest country like + this know of distant tribes. An old man, who said he had been born about + the same time as the late Matiamvo, and had been his constant companion + through life, visited us; and as I was sitting on some grass in front of + the little gipsy tent mending my camp stool, I invited him to take a seat + on the grass beside me. This was peremptorily refused: "he had never sat + on the ground during the late chief's reign, and he was not going to + degrade himself now." One of my men handed him a log of wood taken from + the fire, and helped him out of the difficulty. When I offered him some + cooked meat on a plate, he would not touch that either, but would take it + home. So I humored him by sending a servant to bear a few ounces of meat + to the town behind him. He mentioned the Lolo (Lulua) as the branch of the + Leeambye which flows southward or S.S.E.; but the people of Matiamvo had + never gone far down it, as their chief had always been afraid of + encountering a tribe whom, from the description given, I could recognize + as the Makololo. He described five rivers as falling into the Lolo, viz., + the Lishish, Liss or Lise, Kalileme, Ishidish, and Molong. None of these + are large, but when they are united in the Lolo they form a considerable + stream. The country through which the Lolo flows is said to be flat, + fertile, well peopled, and there are large patches of forest. In this + report he agreed perfectly with the people of Matiamvo, whom we had met at + Quendende's village. But we never could get him, or any one in this + quarter, to draw a map on the ground, as people may readily be got to do + in the south. + </p> + <p> + Katema promised us the aid of some of his people as carriers, but his rule + is not very stringent or efficient, for they refused to turn out for the + work. They were Balobale; and he remarked on their disobedience that, + though he received them as fugitives, they did not feel grateful enough to + obey, and if they continued rebellious he must drive them back whence they + came; but there is little fear of that, as all the chiefs are excessively + anxious to collect men in great numbers around them. These Balobale would + not go, though our guide Shakatwala ran after some of them with a drawn + sword. This degree of liberty to rebel was very striking to us, as it + occurred in a country where people may be sold, and often are so disposed + of when guilty of any crime; and we well knew that open disobedience like + this among the Makololo would be punished with death without much + ceremony. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, the 19th, both I and several of our party were seized with + fever, and I could do nothing but toss about in my little tent, with the + thermometer above 90 Deg., though this was the beginning of winter, and my + men made as much shade as possible by planting branches of trees all round + and over it. We have, for the first time in my experience in Africa, had a + cold wind from the north. All the winds from that quarter are hot, and + those from the south are cold, but they seldom blow from either direction. + </p> + <p> + 20TH. We were glad to get away, though not on account of any scarcity of + food; for my men, by giving small presents of meat as an earnest of their + sincerity, formed many friendships with the people of Katema. We went + about four or five miles in a N.N.W. direction, then two in a westerly + one, and came round the small end of Lake Dilolo. It seemed, as far as we + could at this time discern, to be like a river a quarter of a mile wide. + It is abundantly supplied with fish and hippopotami; the broad part, which + we did not this time see, is about three miles wide, and the lake is + almost seven or eight long. If it be thought strange that I did not go a + few miles to see the broad part, which, according to Katema, had never + been visited by any of the traders, it must be remembered that in + consequence of fever I had eaten nothing for two entire days, and, instead + of sleep, the whole of the nights were employed in incessant drinking of + water, and I was now so glad to get on in the journey and see some of my + fellow fever-patients crawling along, that I could not brook the delay, + which astronomical observations for accurately determining the + geographical position of this most interesting spot would have occasioned. + </p> + <p> + We observed among the people of Katema a love for singing-birds. One + pretty little songster, named "cabazo", a species of canary, is kept in + very neatly made cages, having traps on the top to entice its still free + companions. On asking why they kept them in confinement, "Because they + sing sweetly," was the answer. They feed them on the lotsa ('Pennisetum + typhoideum'), of which great quantities are cultivated as food for man, + and these canaries plague the gardeners here, very much in the same way as + our sparrows do at home. + </p> + <p> + I was pleased to hear the long-forgotten cry of alarm of the canaries in + the woods, and observed one warbling forth its song, and keeping in motion + from side to side, as these birds do in the cage. We saw also tame + pigeons; and the Barotse, who always take care to exalt Santuru, reminded + us that this chief had many doves, and kept canaries which had reddish + heads when the birds attained maturity. Those we now see have the real + canary color on the breast, with a tinge of green; the back, yellowish + green, with darker longitudinal bands meeting in the centre; a narrow dark + band passes from the bill over the eye and back to the bill again. + </p> + <p> + The birds of song here set up quite a merry chorus in the mornings, and + abound most near the villages. Some sing as loudly as our thrushes, and + the king-hunter ('Halcyon Senegalensis') makes a clear whirring sound like + that of a whistle with a pea in it. During the heat of the day all remain + silent, and take their siesta in the shadiest parts of the trees, but in + the cool of the evening they again exert themselves in the production of + pleasant melody. It is remarkable that so many songbirds abound where + there is a general paucity of other animal life. As we went forward we + were struck by the comparative absence of game and the larger kind of + fowls. The rivers contain very few fish. Common flies are not troublesome, + as they are wherever milk is abundant; they are seen in company with + others of the same size and shape, but whose tiny feet do not tickle the + skin, as is the case with their companions. Mosquitoes are seldom so + numerous as to disturb the slumbers of a weary man. + </p> + <p> + But, though this region is free from common insect plagues, and from + tsetse, it has others. Feeling something running across my forehead as I + was falling asleep, I put up the hand to wipe it off, and was sharply + stung both on the hand and head; the pain was very acute. On obtaining a + light, we found that it had been inflicted by a light-colored spider, + about half an inch in length, and, one of the men having crushed it with + his fingers, I had no opportunity of examining whether the pain had been + produced by poison from a sting or from its mandibles. No remedy was + applied, and the pain ceased in about two hours. The Bechuanas believe + that there is a small black spider in the country whose bite is fatal. I + have not met with an instance in which death could be traced to this + insect, though a very large black, hairy spider, an inch and a quarter + long and three quarters of an inch broad, is frequently seen, having a + process at the end of its front claws similar to that at the end of the + scorpion's tail, and when the bulbous portion of it is pressed, the poison + may be seen oozing out from the point. + </p> + <p> + We have also spiders in the south which seize their prey by leaping upon + it from a distance of several inches. When alarmed, they can spring about + a foot away from the object of their own fear. Of this kind there are + several varieties. + </p> + <p> + A large reddish spider ('Mygale') obtains its food in a different manner + than either patiently waiting in ambush or by catching it with a bound. It + runs about with great velocity in and out, behind and around every object, + searching for what it may devour, and, from its size and rapid motions, + excites the horror of every stranger. I never knew it to do any harm + except frightening the nervous, and I believe few could look upon it for + the first time without feeling himself in danger. It is named by the + natives "selali", and is believed to be the maker of a hinged cover for + its nest. You see a door, about the size of a shilling, lying beside a + deep hole of nearly similar diameter. The inside of the door lying upward, + and which attracts your notice, is of a pure white silky substance, like + paper. The outer side is coated over with earth, precisely like that in + which the hole is made. If you try to lift it, you find it is fastened by + a hinge on one side, and, if it is turned over upon the hole, it fits it + exactly, and the earthy side being then uppermost, it is quite impossible + to detect the situation of the nest. Unfortunately, this cavity for + breeding is never seen except when the owner is out, and has left the door + open behind her. + </p> + <p> + In some parts of the country there are great numbers of a large, beautiful + yellow-spotted spider, the webs of which are about a yard in diameter. The + lines on which these webs are spun are suspended from one tree to another, + and are as thick as coarse thread. The fibres radiate from a central + point, where the insect waits for its prey. The webs are placed + perpendicularly, and a common occurrence in walking is to get the face + enveloped in them as a lady is in a veil. + </p> + <p> + Another kind of spider lives in society, and forms so great a collection + of webs placed at every angle, that the trunk of a tree surrounded by them + can not be seen. A piece of hedge is often so hidden by this spider that + the branches are invisible. Another is seen on the inside of the walls of + huts among the Makololo in great abundance. It is round in shape, spotted, + brown in color, and the body half an inch in diameter; the spread of the + legs is an inch and a half. It makes a smooth spot for itself on the wall, + covered with the above-mentioned white silky substance. There it is seen + standing the whole day, and I never could ascertain how it fed. It has no + web, but a carpet, and is a harmless, though an ugly neighbor. + </p> + <p> + Immediately beyond Dilolo there is a large flat about twenty miles in + breadth. Here Shakatwala insisted on our remaining to get supplies of food + from Katema's subjects, before entering the uninhabited watery plains. + When asked the meaning of the name Dilolo, Shakatwala gave the following + account of the formation of the lake. A female chief, called Moene (lord) + Monenga, came one evening to the village of Mosogo, a man who lived in the + vicinity, but who had gone to hunt with his dogs. She asked for a supply + of food, and Mosogo's wife gave her a sufficient quantity. Proceeding to + another village standing on the spot now occupied by the water, she + preferred the same demand, and was not only refused, but, when she uttered + a threat for their niggardliness, was taunted with the question, "What + could she do though she were thus treated?" In order to show what she + could do, she began a song, in slow time, and uttered her own name, + Monenga-wo-o. As she prolonged the last note, the village, people, fowls, + and dogs sank into the space now called Dilolo. When Kasimakate, the head + man of this village, came home and found out the catastrophe, he cast + himself into the lake, and is supposed to be in it still. The name is + derived from "ilolo", despair, because this man gave up all hope when his + family was destroyed. Monenga was put to death. This may be a faint + tradition of the Deluge, and it is remarkable as the only one I have met + with in this country. + </p> + <p> + Heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front (N.N.W.) in one + day, and the constant wading among the grass hurt the feet of the men. + There is a footpath all the way across, but as this is worn down beneath + the level of the rest of the plain, it is necessarily the deepest portion, + and the men, avoiding it, make a new walk by its side. A path, however + narrow, is a great convenience, as any one who has traveled on foot in + Africa will admit. The virtual want of it here caused us to make slow and + painful progress. + </p> + <p> + Ants surely are wiser than some men, for they learn by experience. They + have established themselves even on these plains, where water stands so + long annually as to allow the lotus, and other aqueous plants, to come to + maturity. When all the ant horizon is submerged a foot deep, they manage + to exist by ascending to little houses built of black tenacious loam on + stalks of grass, and placed higher than the line of inundation. This must + have been the result of experience; for, if they had waited till the water + actually invaded their terrestrial habitations, they would not have been + able to procure materials for their aerial quarters, unless they dived + down to the bottom for every mouthful of clay. Some of these upper + chambers are about the size of a bean, and others as large as a man's + thumb. They must have built in anticipation, and if so, let us humbly hope + that the sufferers by the late inundations in France may be possessed of + as much common sense as the little black ants of the Dilolo plains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 18. + </h2> + <p> + The Watershed between the northern and southern Rivers—A deep Valley— + Rustic Bridge—Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys—Village + of Kabinje—Good Effects of the Belief in the Power of Charms—Demand + for Gunpowder and English Calico—The Kasai—Vexatious Trick—Want + of Food—No Game—Katende's unreasonable Demand—A grave + Offense—Toll-bridge Keeper—Greedy Guides—Flooded Valleys—Swim + the Nyuana Loke—Prompt Kindness of my Men—Makololo Remarks on + the rich uncultivated Valleys—Difference in the Color of Africans—Reach + a Village of the Chiboque—The Head Man's impudent Message—Surrounds + our Encampment with his Warriors—The Pretense—Their Demand—Prospect + of a Fight—Way in which it was averted—Change our Path—Summer— + Fever—Beehives and the Honey-guide—Instinct of Trees—Climbers—The + Ox Sinbad—Absence of Thorns in the Forests—Plant peculiar to a + forsaken Garden—Bad Guides—Insubordination suppressed—Beset + by Enemies—A Robber Party—More Troubles—Detained by + Ionga Panza—His Village—Annoyed by Bangala Traders—My + Men discouraged—Their Determination and Precaution. + </p> + <p> + 24TH OF FEBRUARY. On reaching unflooded lands beyond the plain, we found + the villages there acknowledged the authority of the chief named Katende, + and we discovered, also, to our surprise, that the almost level plain we + had passed forms the watershed between the southern and northern rivers, + for we had now entered a district in which the rivers flowed in a + northerly direction into the Kasai or Loke, near to which we now were, + while the rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running southward. + Having met with kind treatment and aid at the first village, Katema's + guides returned, and we were led to the N.N.W. by the inhabitants, and + descended into the very first really deep valley we had seen since leaving + Kolobeng. A stream ran along the bottom of a slope of three or four + hundred yards from the plains above. + </p> + <p> + We crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged thigh-deep by the + rains. The trees growing along the stream of this lovely valley were + thickly planted and very high. Many had sixty or eighty feet of clean + straight trunk, and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath them. + Ascending the opposite side, we came, in two hours' time, to another + valley, equally beautiful, and with a stream also in its centre. It may + seem mere trifling to note such an unimportant thing as the occurrence of + a valley, there being so many in every country under the sun; but as these + were branches of that in which the Kasai or Loke flows, and both that + river and its feeders derive their water in a singular manner from the + valley sides, I may be excused for calling particular attention to the + more furrowed nature of the country. + </p> + <p> + At different points on the slopes of these valleys which we now for the + first time entered, there are oozing fountains, surrounded by clumps of + the same evergreen, straight, large-leaved trees we have noticed along the + streams. These spots are generally covered with a mat of grassy + vegetation, and possess more the character of bogs than of fountains. They + slowly discharge into the stream below, and are so numerous along both + banks as to give a peculiar character to the landscape. These groups of + sylvan vegetation are generally of a rounded form, and the trunks of the + trees are tall and straight, while those on the level plains above are low + and scraggy in their growth. There can be little doubt but that the water, + which stands for months on the plains, soaks in, and finds its way into + the rivers and rivulets by percolating through the soil, and out by these + oozing bogs; and the difference between the growth of these trees, though + they be of different species, may be a proof that the stuntedness of those + on the plains is owing to being, in the course of each year, more + subjected to drought than moisture. + </p> + <p> + Reaching the village of Kabinje, in the evening he sent us a present of + tobacco, Mutokuane or "bang" ('Cannabis sativa'), and maize, by the man + who went forward to announce our arrival, and a message expressing + satisfaction at the prospect of having trade with the coast. The westing + we were making brought us among people who are frequently visited by the + Mambari as slave-dealers. This trade causes bloodshed; for when a poor + family is selected as the victims, it is necessary to get rid of the older + members of it, because they are supposed to be able to give annoyance to + the chief afterward by means of enchantments. The belief in the power of + charms for good or evil produces not only honesty, but a great amount of + gentle dealing. The powerful are often restrained in their despotism from + a fear that the weak and helpless may injure them by their medical + knowledge. They have many fears. A man at one of the villages we came to + showed us the grave of his child, and, with much apparent feeling, told us + she had been burned to death in her hut. He had come with all his family, + and built huts around it in order to weep for her. He thought, if the + grave were left unwatched, the witches would come and bewitch them by + putting medicines on the body. They have a more decided belief in the + continued existence of departed spirits than any of the more southerly + tribes. Even the Barotse possess it in a strong degree, for one of my men + of that tribe, on experiencing headache, said, with a sad and thoughtful + countenance, "My father is scolding me because I do not give him any of + the food I eat." I asked where his father was. "Among the Barimo," was the + reply. + </p> + <p> + When we wished to move on, Kabinje refused a guide to the next village + because he was at war with it; but, after much persuasion, he consented, + provided that the guide should be allowed to return as soon as he came in + sight of the enemy's village. This we felt to be a misfortune, as the + people all suspect a man who comes telling his own tale; but there being + no help for it, we went on, and found the head man of a village on the + rivulet Kalomba, called Kangenke, a very different man from what his enemy + represented. We found, too, that the idea of buying and selling took the + place of giving for friendship. As I had nothing with which to purchase + food except a parcel of beads which were preserved for worse times, I + began to fear that we should soon be compelled to suffer more from hunger + than we had done. The people demanded gunpowder for every thing. If we had + possessed any quantity of that article, we should have got on well, for + here it is of great value. On our return, near this spot we found a + good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of gunpowder. Next to that, + English calico was in great demand, and so were beads; but money was of no + value whatever. Gold is quite unknown; it is thought to be brass; trade is + carried on by barter alone. The people know nothing of money. A + purse-proud person would here feel the ground move from beneath his feet. + Occasionally a large piece of copper, in the shape of a St. Andrew's + cross, is offered for sale. + </p> + <p> + FEBRUARY 27TH. Kangenke promptly furnished guides this morning, so we went + briskly on a short distance, and came to a part of the Kasye, Kasai, or + Loke, where he had appointed two canoes to convey us across. This is a + most beautiful river, and very much like the Clyde in Scotland. The slope + of the valley down to the stream is about five hundred yards, and finely + wooded. It is, perhaps, one hundred yards broad, and was winding slowly + from side to side in the beautiful green glen, in a course to the north + and northeast. In both the directions from which it came and to which it + went it seemed to be alternately embowered in sylvan vegetation, or rich + meadows covered with tall grass. The men pointed out its course, and said, + "Though you sail along it for months, you will turn without seeing the end + of it." + </p> + <p> + While at the ford of the Kasai we were subjected to a trick, of which we + had been forewarned by the people of Shinte. A knife had been dropped by + one of Kangenke's people in order to entrap my men; it was put down near + our encampment, as if lost, the owner in the mean time watching till one + of my men picked it up. Nothing was said until our party was divided, one + half on this, and the other on that bank of the river. Then the charge was + made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife. Certain of my people's + honesty, I desired the man, who was making a great noise, to search the + luggage for it; the unlucky lad who had taken the bait then came forward + and confessed that he had the knife in a basket, which was already taken + over the river. When it was returned, the owner would not receive it back + unless accompanied with a fine. The lad offered beads, but these were + refused with scorn. A shell hanging round his neck, similar to that which + Shinte had given me, was the object demanded, and the victim of the trick, + as we all knew it to be, was obliged to part with his costly ornament. I + could not save him from the loss, as all had been forewarned; and it is + the universal custom among the Makololo and many other tribes to show + whatever they may find to the chief person of their company, and make a + sort of offer of it to him. This lad ought to have done so to me; the rest + of the party always observed this custom. I felt annoyed at the + imposition, but the order we invariably followed in crossing a river + forced me to submit. The head of the party remained to be ferried over + last; so, if I had not come to terms, I would have been, as I always was + in crossing rivers which we could not swim, completely in the power of the + enemy. It was but rarely we could get a head man so witless as to cross a + river with us, and remain on the opposite bank in a convenient position to + be seized as a hostage in case of my being caught. + </p> + <p> + This trick is but one of a number equally dishonorable which are practiced + by tribes that lie adjacent to the more civilized settlements. The Balonda + farther east told us, by way of warning, that many parties of the more + central tribes had at various periods set out, in order to trade with the + white men themselves, instead of through the Mambari, but had always been + obliged to return without reaching their destination, in consequence of so + many pretexts being invented by the tribes encountered in the way for + fining them of their ivory. + </p> + <p> + This ford was in 11d 15' 47" S. latitude, but the weather was so + excessively cloudy we got no observation for longitude. + </p> + <p> + We were now in want of food, for, to the great surprise of my companions, + the people of Kangenke gave nothing except by way of sale, and charged the + most exorbitant prices for the little meal and manioc they brought. The + only article of barter my men had was a little fat saved from the ox we + slaughtered at Katema's, so I was obliged to give them a portion of the + stock of beads. One day (29th) of westing brought us from the Kasai to + near the village of Katende, and we saw that we were in a land where no + hope could be entertained of getting supplies of animal food, for one of + our guides caught a light-blue colored mole and two mice for his supper. + The care with which he wrapped them up in a leaf and slung them on his + spear told that we could not hope to enjoy any larger game. We saw no + evidence of any animals besides; and, on coming to the villages beyond + this, we often saw boys and girls engaged in digging up these tiny + quadrupeds. + </p> + <p> + Katende sent for me on the day following our arrival, and, being quite + willing to visit him, I walked, for this purpose, about three miles from + our encampment. When we approached the village we were desired to enter a + hut, and, as it was raining at the time, we did so. After a long time + spent in giving and receiving messages from the great man, we were told + that he wanted either a man, a tusk, beads, copper rings, or a shell, as + payment for leave to pass through his country. No one, we were assured, + was allowed that liberty, or even to behold him, without something of the + sort being presented. Having humbly explained our circumstances, and that + he could not expect to "catch a humble cow by the horns"—a proverb + similar to ours that "you can't draw milk out of a stone"—we were + told to go home, and he would speak again to us next day. I could not + avoid a hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage, and made the + best of my way home in the still pouring rain. My men were rather nettled + at this want of hospitality, but, after talking over the matter with one + of Katende's servants, he proposed that some small article should be + given, and an attempt made to please Katende. I turned out my shirts, and + selected the worst one as a sop for him, and invited Katende to come and + choose any thing else I had, but added that, when I should reach my own + chief naked, and was asked what I had done with my clothes, I should be + obliged to confess that I had left them with Katende. The shirt was + dispatched to him, and some of my people went along with the servant; they + soon returned, saying that the shirt had been accepted, and guides and + food too would be sent to us next day. The chief had, moreover, expressed + a hope to see me on my return. He is reported to be very corpulent. The + traders who have come here seem to have been very timid, yielding to every + demand made on the most frivolous pretenses. One of my men, seeing another + much like an acquaintance at home, addressed him by the name of the latter + in sport, telling him, at the same time, why he did so; this was + pronounced to be a grave offense, and a large fine demanded; when the case + came before me I could see no harm in what had been done, and told my + people not to answer the young fellow. The latter felt himself disarmed, + for it is chiefly in a brawl they have power; then words are spoken in + anger which rouse the passions of the complainant's friends. In this case, + after vociferating some time, the would-be offended party came and said to + my man that, if they exchanged some small gift, all would be right, but, + my man taking no notice of him, he went off rather crestfallen. + </p> + <p> + My men were as much astonished as myself at the demand for payment for + leave to pass, and the almost entire neglect of the rules of hospitality. + Katende gave us only a little meal and manioc, and a fowl. Being detained + two days by heavy rains, we felt that a good stock of patience was + necessary in traveling through this country in the rainy season. + </p> + <p> + Passing onward without seeing Katende, we crossed a small rivulet, the + Sengko, by which we had encamped, and after two hours came to another, the + Totelo, which was somewhat larger, and had a bridge over it. At the + farther end of this structure stood a negro, who demanded fees. He said + the bridge was his; the path his; the guides were his children; and if we + did not pay him he would prevent farther progress. This piece of + civilization I was not prepared to meet, and stood a few seconds looking + at our bold toll-keeper, when one of my men took off three copper + bracelets, which paid for the whole party. The negro was a better man than + he at first seemed, for he immediately went to his garden and brought us + some leaves of tobacco as a present. + </p> + <p> + When we had got fairly away from the villages, the guides from Kangenke + sat down and told us that there were three paths in front, and, if we did + not at once present them with a cloth, they would leave us to take + whichever we might like best. As I had pointed out the direction in which + Loanda lay, and had only employed them for the sake of knowing the paths + between villages which lay along our route, and always objected when they + led us in any other than the Loanda direction, I wished my men now to go + on without the guides, trusting to ourselves to choose the path which + would seem to lead us in the direction we had always followed. But + Mashauana, fearing lest we might wander, asked leave to give his own + cloth, and when the guides saw that, they came forward shouting "Averie, + Averie!" + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon of this day we came to a valley about a mile wide, filled + with clear, fast-flowing water. The men on foot were chin deep in + crossing, and we three on ox-back got wet to the middle, the weight of the + animals preventing them from swimming. A thunder-shower descending + completed the partial drenching of the plain, and gave a cold, + uncomfortable "packing in a wet blanket" that night. Next day we found + another flooded valley about half a mile wide, with a small and now deep + rivulet in its middle, flowing rapidly to the S.S.E., or toward the Kasai. + The middle part of this flood, being the bed of what at other times is the + rivulet, was so rapid that we crossed by holding on to the oxen, and the + current soon dashed them to the opposite bank; we then jumped off, and, + the oxen being relieved of their burdens, we could pull them on to the + shallower part. The rest of the valley was thigh deep and boggy, but + holding on by the belt which fastened the blanket to the ox, we each + floundered through the nasty slough as well as we could. These boggy + parts, lying parallel to the stream, were the most extensive we had come + to: those mentioned already were mere circumscribed patches; these + extended for miles along each bank; but even here, though the rapidity of + the current was very considerable, the thick sward of grass was "laid" + flat along the sides of the stream, and the soil was not abraded so much + as to discolor the flood. When we came to the opposite side of this + valley, some pieces of the ferruginous conglomerate, which forms the + capping to all other rocks in a large district around and north of this, + cropped out, and the oxen bit at them as if surprised by the appearance of + stone as much as we were; or it may have contained some mineral of which + they stood in need. We had not met with a stone since leaving Shinte's. + The country is covered with deep alluvial soil of a dark color and very + fertile. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we came to another stream, nyuana Loke (or child of + Loke), with a bridge over it. The men had to swim off to each end of the + bridge, and when on it were breast deep; some preferred holding on by the + tails of the oxen the whole way across. I intended to do this too; but, + riding to the deep part, before I could dismount and seize the helm the ox + dashed off with his companions, and his body sank so deep that I failed in + my attempt even to catch the blanket belt, and if I pulled the bridle the + ox seemed as if he would come backward upon me, so I struck out for the + opposite bank alone. My poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed when they saw + me parted from the cattle, and about twenty of them made a simultaneous + rush into the water for my rescue, and just as I reached the opposite bank + one seized my arm, and another threw his around my body. When I stood up, + it was most gratifying to see them all struggling toward me. Some had + leaped off the bridge, and allowed their cloaks to float down the stream. + Part of my goods, abandoned in the hurry, were brought up from the bottom + after I was safe. Great was the pleasure expressed when they found that I + could swim, like themselves, without the aid of a tail, and I did and do + feel grateful to these poor heathens for the promptitude with which they + dashed in to save, as they thought, my life. I found my clothes cumbersome + in the water; they could swim quicker from being naked. They swim like + dogs, not frog-fashion, as we do. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we crossed the small rivulet Lozeze, and came to some + villages of the Kasabi, from whom we got some manioc in exchange for + beads. They tried to frighten us by telling of the deep rivers we should + have to cross in our way. I was drying my clothes by turning myself round + and round before the fire. My men laughed at the idea of being frightened + by rivers. "We can all swim: who carried the white man across the river + but himself?" I felt proud of their praise. + </p> + <p> + SATURDAY, 4TH MARCH. Came to the outskirts of the territory of the + Chiboque. We crossed the Konde and Kaluze rivulets. The former is a deep, + small stream with a bridge, the latter insignificant; the valleys in which + these rivulets run are beautifully fertile. My companions are continually + lamenting over the uncultivated vales in such words as these: "What a fine + country for cattle! My heart is sore to see such fruitful valleys for corn + lying waste." At the time these words were put down I had come to the + belief that the reason why the inhabitants of this fine country possess no + herds of cattle was owing to the despotic sway of their chiefs, and that + the common people would not be allowed to keep any domestic animals, even + supposing they could acquire them; but on musing on the subject since, I + have been led to the conjecture that the rich, fertile country of Londa + must formerly have been infested by the tsetse, but that, as the people + killed off the game on which, in the absence of man, the tsetse must + subsist, the insect was starved out of the country. It is now found only + where wild animals abound, and the Balonda, by the possession of guns, + having cleared most of the country of all the large game, we may have + happened to come just when it was possible to admit of cattle. Hence the + success of Katema, Shinte, and Matiamvo with their herds. It would not be + surprising, though they know nothing of the circumstance; a tribe on the + Zambesi, which I encountered, whose country was swarming with tsetse, + believed that they could not keep any cattle, because "no one loved them + well enough to give them the medicine of oxen;" and even the Portuguese at + Loanda accounted for the death of the cattle brought from the interior to + the sea-coast by the prejudicial influence of the sea air! One ox, which I + took down to the sea from the interior, died at Loanda, with all the + symptoms of the poison injected by tsetse, which I saw myself in a + district a hundred miles from the coast. + </p> + <p> + While at the villages of the Kasabi we saw no evidences of want of food + among the people. Our beads were very valuable, but cotton cloth would + have been still more so; as we traveled along, men, women, and children + came running after us, with meal and fowls for sale, which we would gladly + have purchased had we possessed any English manufactures. When they heard + that we had no cloth, they turned back much disappointed. + </p> + <p> + The amount of population in the central parts of the country may be called + large only as compared with the Cape Colony or the Bechuana country. The + cultivated land is as nothing compared with what might be brought under + the plow. There are flowing streams in abundance, which, were it + necessary, could be turned to the purpose of irrigation with but little + labor. Miles of fruitful country are now lying absolutely waste, for there + is not even game to eat off the fine pasturage, and to recline under the + evergreen, shady groves which we are ever passing in our progress. The + people who inhabit the central region are not all quite black in color. + Many incline to that of bronze, and others are as light in hue as the + Bushmen, who, it may be remembered, afford a proof that heat alone does + not cause blackness, but that heat and moisture combined do very + materially deepen the color. Wherever we find people who have continued + for ages in a hot, humid district, they are deep black, but to this + apparent law there are exceptions, caused by the migrations of both tribes + and individuals; the Makololo, for instance, among the tribes of the humid + central basin, appear of a sickly sallow hue when compared with the + aboriginal inhabitants; the Batoka also, who lived in an elevated region, + are, when seen in company with the Batoka of the rivers, so much lighter + in color, they might be taken for another tribe; but their language, and + the very marked custom of knocking out the upper front teeth, leave no + room for doubt that they are one people. + </p> + <p> + Apart from the influences of elevation, heat, humidity, and degradation, I + have imagined that the lighter and darker colors observed in the native + population run in five longitudinal bands along the southern portion of + the continent. Those on the seaboard of both the east and west are very + dark; then two bands of lighter color lie about three hundred miles from + each coast, of which the westerly one, bending round, embraces the + Kalahari Desert and Bechuana countries; and then the central basin is very + dark again. This opinion is not given with any degree of positiveness. It + is stated just as it struck my mind in passing across the country, and if + incorrect, it is singular that the dialects spoken by the different tribes + have arranged themselves in a fashion which seems to indicate migration + along the lines of color. The dialects spoken in the extreme south, + whether Hottentot or Caffre, bear a close affinity to those of the tribes + living immediately on their northern borders; one glides into the other, + and their affinities are so easily detected that they are at once + recognized to be cognate. If the dialects of extreme points are compared, + as that of the Caffres and the tribes near the equator, it is more + difficult to recognize the fact, which is really the case, that all the + dialects belong to but two families of languages. Examination of the roots + of the words of the dialects, arranged in geographical order, shows that + they merge into each other, and there is not nearly so much difference + between the extremes of east and west as between those of north and south, + the dialect spoken at Tete resembling closely that in Angola. + </p> + <p> + Having, on the afore-mentioned date, reached the village of Njambi, one of + the chiefs of the Chiboque, we intended to pass a quiet Sunday; and our + provisions being quite spent, I ordered a tired riding-ox to be + slaughtered. As we wished to be on good terms with all, we sent the hump + and ribs to Njambi, with the explanation that this was the customary + tribute to chiefs in the part from which we had come, and that we always + honored men in his position. He returned thanks, and promised to send + food. Next morning he sent an impudent message, with a very small present + of meal; scorning the meat he had accepted, he demanded either a man, an + ox, a gun, powder, cloth, or a shell; and in the event of refusal to + comply with his demand, he intimated his intention to prevent our further + progress. We replied, we should have thought ourselves fools if we had + scorned his small present, and demanded other food instead; and even + supposing we had possessed the articles named, no black man ought to + impose a tribute on a party that did not trade in slaves. The servants who + brought the message said that, when sent to the Mambari, they had always + got a quantity of cloth from them for their master, and now expected the + same, or something else as an equivalent, from me. + </p> + <p> + We heard some of the Chiboque remark, "They have only five guns;" and + about midday, Njambi collected all his people, and surrounded our + encampment. Their object was evidently to plunder us of every thing. My + men seized their javelins, and stood on the defensive, while the young + Chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them with great fury. Some + even pointed their guns at me, and nodded to each other, as much as to + say, "This is the way we shall do with him." I sat on my camp-stool, with + my double-barreled gun across my knees, and invited the chief to be seated + also. When he and his counselors had sat down on the ground in front of + me, I asked what crime we had committed that he had come armed in that + way. He replied that one of my men, Pitsane, while sitting at the fire + that morning, had, in spitting, allowed a small quantity of the saliva to + fall on the leg of one of his men, and this "guilt" he wanted to be + settled by the fine of a man, ox, or gun. Pitsane admitted the fact of a + little saliva having fallen on the Chiboque, and in proof of its being a + pure accident, mentioned that he had given the man a piece of meat, by way + of making friends, just before it happened, and wiped it off with his hand + as soon as it fell. In reference to a man being given, I declared that we + were all ready to die rather than give up one of our number to be a slave; + that my men might as well give me as I give one of them, for we were all + free men. "Then you can give the gun with which the ox was shot." As we + heard some of his people remarking even now that we had only "five guns", + we declined, on the ground that, as they were intent on plundering us, + giving a gun would be helping them to do so. + </p> + <p> + This they denied, saying they wanted the customary tribute only. I asked + what right they had to demand payment for leave to tread on the ground of + God, our common Father. If we trod on their gardens, we would pay, but not + for marching on land which was still God's, and not theirs. They did not + attempt to controvert this, because it is in accordance with their own + ideas, but reverted again to the pretended crime of the saliva. + </p> + <p> + My men now entreated me to give something; and after asking the chief if + he really thought the affair of the spitting a matter of guilt, and + receiving an answer in the affirmative, I gave him one of my shirts. The + young Chiboque were dissatisfied, and began shouting and brandishing their + swords for a greater fine. + </p> + <p> + As Pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this disagreeable affair, he + asked me to add something else. I gave a bunch of beads, but the + counselors objected this time, so I added a large handkerchief. The more I + yielded, the more unreasonable their demands became, and at every fresh + demand a shout was raised by the armed party, and a rush made around us + with brandishing of arms. One young man made a charge at my head from + behind, but I quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth, and + he retreated. I pointed him out to the chief, and he ordered him to retire + a little. I felt anxious to avoid the effusion of blood; and though sure + of being able, with my Makololo, who had been drilled by Sebituane, to + drive off twice the number of our assailants, though now a large body, and + well armed with spears, swords, arrows, and guns, I strove to avoid actual + collision. My men were quite unprepared for this exhibition, but behaved + with admirable coolness. The chief and counselors, by accepting my + invitation to be seated, had placed themselves in a trap, for my men very + quietly surrounded them, and made them feel that there was no chance of + escaping their spears. I then said that, as one thing after another had + failed to satisfy them, it was evident that THEY wanted to fight, while WE + only wanted to pass peaceably through the country; that they must begin + first, and bear the guilt before God: we would not fight till they had + struck the first blow. I then sat silent for some time. It was rather + trying for me, because I knew that the Chiboque would aim at the white man + first; but I was careful not to appear flurried, and, having four barrels + ready for instant action, looked quietly at the savage scene around. The + Chiboque countenance, by no means handsome, is not improved by the + practice which they have adopted of filing the teeth to a point. The chief + and counselors, seeing that they were in more danger than I, did not + choose to follow our decision that they should begin by striking the first + blow, and then see what we could do, and were perhaps influenced by seeing + the air of cool preparation which some of my men displayed at the prospect + of a work of blood. + </p> + <p> + The Chiboque at last put the matter before us in this way: "You come among + us in a new way, and say you are quite friendly: how can we know it unless + you give us some of your food, and you take some of ours? If you give us + an ox, we will give you whatever you may wish, and then we shall be + friends." In accordance with the entreaties of my men, I gave an ox; and + when asked what I should like in return, mentioned food as the thing which + we most needed. In the evening Njambi sent us a very small basket of meal, + and two or three pounds of the flesh of our own ox! with the apology that + he had no fowls, and very little of any other food. It was impossible to + avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous creatures. I was truly + thankful, nevertheless, that, though resolved to die rather than deliver + up one of our number to be a slave, we had so far gained our point as to + be allowed to pass on without having shed human blood. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of the commotion, several Chiboque stole pieces of meat out + of the sheds of my people, and Mohorisi, one of the Makololo, went boldly + into the crowd and took back a marrow-bone from one of them. A few of my + Batoka seemed afraid, and would perhaps have fled had the affray actually + begun, but, upon the whole, I thought my men behaved admirably. They + lamented having left their shields at home by command of Sekeletu, who + feared that, if they carried these, they might be more disposed to be + overbearing in their demeanor to the tribes we should meet. We had + proceeded on the principles of peace and conciliation, and the foregoing + treatment shows in what light our conduct was viewed; in fact, we were + taken for interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of the tribe. They had + been accustomed to get a slave or two from every slave-trader who passed + them, and now that we disputed the right, they viewed the infringement on + what they considered lawfully due with most virtuous indignation. + </p> + <p> + MARCH 6TH. We were informed that the people on the west of the Chiboque of + Njambi were familiar with the visits of slave-traders; and it was the + opinion of our guides from Kangenke that so many of my companions would be + demanded from me, in the same manner as the people of Njambi had done, + that I should reach the coast without a single attendant; I therefore + resolved to alter our course and strike away to the N.N.E., in the hope + that at some point farther north I might find an exit to the Portuguese + settlement of Cassange. We proceeded at first due north, with the Kasabi + villages on our right, and the Kasau on our left. During the first twenty + miles we crossed many small, but now swollen streams, having the usual + boggy banks, and wherever the water had stood for any length of time it + was discolored with rust of iron. We saw a "nakong" antelope one day, a + rare sight in this quarter; and many new and pretty flowers adorned the + valleys. We could observe the difference in the seasons in our northing in + company with the sun. Summer was now nearly over at Kuruman, and far + advanced at Linyanti, but here we were in the middle of it; fruits, which + we had eaten ripe on the Leeambye, were here quite green; but we were + coming into the region where the inhabitants are favored with two rainy + seasons and two crops, i.e., when the sun is going south, and when he + comes back on his way to the north, as was the case at present. + </p> + <p> + On the 8th, one of the men had left an ounce or two of powder at our + sleeping-place, and went back several miles for it. My clothing being wet + from crossing a stream, I was compelled to wait for him; had I been moving + in the sun I should have felt no harm, but the inaction led to a violent + fit of fever. The continuance of this attack was a source of much regret, + for we went on next day to a small rivulet called Chihune, in a lovely + valley, and had, for a wonder, a clear sky and a clear moon; but such was + the confusion produced in my mind by the state of my body, that I could + scarcely manage, after some hours' trial, to get a lunar observation in + which I could repose confidence. The Chihune flows into the Longe, and + that into the Chihombo, a feeder of the Kasai. Those who know the + difficulties of taking altitudes, times, and distances, and committing all + of them to paper, will sympathize with me in this and many similar + instances. While at Chihune, the men of a village brought wax for sale, + and, on finding that we wished honey, went off and soon brought a hive. + All the bees in the country are in possession of the natives, for they + place hives sufficient for them all. After having ascertained this, we + never attended the call of the honey-guide, for we were sure it would only + lead us to a hive which we had no right to touch. The bird continues its + habit of inviting attention to the honey, though its services in this + district are never actually needed. My Makololo lamented that they never + knew before that wax could be sold for any thing of value. + </p> + <p> + As we traverse a succession of open lawns and deep forests, it is + interesting to observe something like instinct developed even in trees. + One which, when cut, emits a milky juice, if met with on the open lawns, + grows as an ordinary umbrageous tree, and shows no disposition to be a + climber; when planted in a forest it still takes the same form, then sends + out a climbing branch, which twines round another tree until it rises + thirty or forty feet, or to the level of the other trees, and there + spreads out a second crown where it can enjoy a fair share of the sun's + rays. In parts of the forest still more dense than this, it assumes the + form of a climber only, and at once avails itself of the assistance of a + tall neighbor by winding vigorously round it, without attempting to form a + lower head. It does not succeed so well as parasites proper, but where + forced to contend for space it may be mistaken for one which is invariably + a climber. The paths here were very narrow and very much encumbered with + gigantic creepers, often as thick as a man's leg. There must be some + reason why they prefer, in some districts, to go up trees in the common + form of the thread of a screw rather than in any other. On the one bank of + the Chihune they appeared to a person standing opposite them to wind up + from left to right, on the other bank from right to left. I imagined this + was owing to the sun being at one season of the year on their north and at + another on their south. But on the Leeambye I observed creepers winding up + on opposite sides of the same reed, and making a figure like the lacings + of a sandal. + </p> + <p> + In passing through these narrow paths I had an opportunity of observing + the peculiarities of my ox "Sinbad". He had a softer back than the others, + but a much more intractable temper. His horns were bent downward and hung + loosely, so he could do no harm with them; but as we wended our way slowly + along the narrow path, he would suddenly dart aside. A string tied to a + stick put through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of a bridle: if + you jerk this back, it makes him run faster on; if you pull it to one + side, he allows the nose and head to go, but keeps the opposite eye + directed to the forbidden spot, and goes in spite of you. The only way he + can be brought to a stand is by a stroke with a wand across the nose. When + Sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the path so low that I could + not stoop under it, I was dragged off and came down on the crown of my + head; and he never allowed an opportunity of the kind to pass without + trying to inflict a kick, as if I neither had nor deserved his love. + </p> + <p> + A remarkable peculiarity in the forests of this country is the absence of + thorns: there are but two exceptions; one a tree bearing a species of 'nux + vomica', and a small shrub very like the plant of the sarsaparilla, + bearing, in addition to its hooked thorns, bunches of yellow berries. The + thornlessness of the vegetation is especially noticeable to those who have + been in the south, where there is so great a variety of thorn-bearing + plants and trees. We have thorns of every size and shape; thorns straight, + thin and long, short and thick, or hooked, and so strong as to be able to + cut even leather like a knife. Seed-vessels are scattered every where by + these appendages. One lies flat as a shilling with two thorns in its + centre, ready to run into the foot of any animal that treads upon it, and + stick there for days together. Another (the 'Uncaria procumbens', or + Grapple-plant) has so many hooked thorns as to cling most tenaciously to + any animal to which it may become attached; when it happens to lay hold of + the mouth of an ox, the animal stands and roars with pain and a sense of + helplessness. + </p> + <p> + Whenever a part of the forest has been cleared for a garden, and afterward + abandoned, a species of plant, with leaves like those of ginger, springs + up, and contends for the possession of the soil with a great crop of + ferns. This is the case all the way down to Angola, and shows the great + difference of climate between this and the Bechuana country, where a fern, + except one or two hardy species, is never seen. The plants above mentioned + bear a pretty pink flower close to the ground, which is succeeded by a + scarlet fruit full of seeds, yielding, as so many fruits in this country + do, a pleasant acid juice, which, like the rest, is probably intended as a + corrective to the fluids of the system in the hot climate. + </p> + <p> + On leaving the Chihune we crossed the Longe, and, as the day was cloudy, + our guides wandered in a forest away to the west till we came to the River + Chihombo, flowing to the E.N.E. My men depended so much on the sun for + guidance that, having seen nothing of the luminary all day, they thought + we had wandered back to the Chiboque, and, as often happens when + bewildered, they disputed as to the point where the sun should rise next + morning. As soon as the rains would allow next day, we went off to the + N.E. It would have been better to have traveled by compass alone, for the + guides took advantage of any fears expressed by my people, and threatened + to return if presents were not made at once. But my men had never left + their own country before except for rapine and murder. When they formerly + came to a village they were in the habit of killing numbers of the + inhabitants, and then taking a few young men to serve as guides to the + next place. As this was their first attempt at an opposite line of + conduct, and as they were without their shields, they felt defenseless + among the greedy Chiboque, and some allowance must be made for them on + that account. + </p> + <p> + SATURDAY, 11TH. Reached a small village on the banks of a narrow stream. I + was too ill to go out of my little covering except to quell a mutiny which + began to show itself among some of the Batoka and Ambonda of our party. + They grumbled, as they often do against their chiefs, when they think them + partial in their gifts, because they supposed that I had shown a + preference in the distribution of the beads; but the beads I had given to + my principal men were only sufficient to purchase a scanty meal, and I had + hastened on to this village in order to slaughter a tired ox, and give + them all a feast as well as a rest on Sunday, as preparation for the + journey before us. I explained this to them, and thought their grumbling + was allayed. I soon sank into a state of stupor, which the fever sometimes + produced, and was oblivious to all their noise in slaughtering. On Sunday + the mutineers were making a terrible din in preparing a skin they had + procured. I requested them twice, by the man who attended me, to be more + quiet, as the noise pained me; but as they paid no attention to this civil + request, I put out my head, and, repeating it myself, was answered by an + impudent laugh. Knowing that discipline would be at an end if this mutiny + were not quelled, and that our lives depended on vigorously upholding + authority, I seized a double-barreled pistol, and darted forth from the + domicile, looking, I suppose, so savage as to put them to a precipitate + flight. As some remained within hearing, I told them that I must maintain + discipline, though at the expense of some of their limbs; so long as we + traveled together they must remember that I was master, and not they. + There being but little room to doubt my determination, they immediately + became very obedient, and never afterward gave me any trouble, or imagined + that they had any right to my property. + </p> + <p> + 13TH. We went forward some miles, but were brought to a stand by the + severity of my fever on the banks of a branch of the Loajima, another + tributary of the Kasai. I was in a state of partial coma until late at + night, when it became necessary for me to go out; and I was surprised to + find that my men had built a little stockade, and some of them took their + spears and acted as a guard. I found that we were surrounded by enemies, + and a party of Chiboque lay near the gateway, after having preferred the + demand of "a man, an ox, a gun, or a tusk." My men had prepared for + defense in case of a night attack, and when the Chiboque wished to be + shown where I lay sick, they very properly refused to point me out. In the + morning I went out to the Chiboque, and found that they answered me + civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country, teaching them, + etc., etc. They admitted that their chiefs would be pleased with the + prospect of friendship, and now only wished to exchange tokens of + good-will with me, and offered three pigs, which they hoped I would + accept. The people here are in the habit of making a present, and then + demanding whatever they choose in return. We had been forewarned of this + by our guides, so I tried to decline, by asking if they would eat one of + the pigs in company with us. To this proposition they said that they durst + not accede. I then accepted the present in the hope that the blame of + deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me, and presented a razor, + two bunches of beads, and twelve copper rings, contributed by my men from + their arms. They went off to report to their chief; and as I was quite + unable to move from excessive giddiness, we continued in the same spot on + Tuesday evening, when they returned with a message couched in very plain + terms, that a man, tusk, gun, or even an ox, alone would be acceptable; + that he had every thing else in his possession but oxen, and that, + whatever I should please to demand from him, he would gladly give it. As + this was all said civilly, and there was no help for it if we refused but + bloodshed, I gave a tired riding-ox. My late chief mutineer, an Ambonda + man, was now over-loyal, for he armed himself and stood at the gateway. He + would rather die than see his father imposed on; but I ordered Mosantu to + take him out of the way, which he did promptly, and allowed the Chiboque + to march off well pleased with their booty. I told my men that I esteemed + one of their lives of more value than all the oxen we had, and that the + only cause which could induce me to fight would be to save the lives and + liberties of the majority. In the propriety of this they all agreed, and + said that, if the Chiboque molested us who behaved so peaceably, the guilt + would be on their heads. This is a favorite mode of expression throughout + the whole country. All are anxious to give explanation of any acts they + have performed, and conclude the narration with, "I have no guilt or + blame" ("molatu"). "They have the guilt." I never could be positive + whether the idea in their minds is guilt in the sight of the Deity, or of + mankind only. + </p> + <p> + Next morning the robber party came with about thirty yards of strong + striped English calico, an axe, and two hoes for our acceptance, and + returned the copper rings, as the chief was a great man, and did not need + the ornaments of my men, but we noticed that they were taken back again. I + divided the cloth among my men, and pleased them a little by thus + compensating for the loss of the ox. I advised the chief, whose name we + did not learn, as he did not deign to appear except under the alias + Matiamvo, to get cattle for his own use, and expressed sorrow that I had + none wherewith to enable him to make a commencement. Rains prevented our + proceeding till Thursday morning, and then messengers appeared to tell us + that their chief had learned that all the cloth sent by him had not been + presented; that the copper rings had been secreted by the persons ordered + to restore them to us, and that he had stripped the thievish emissaries of + their property as a punishment. Our guides thought these were only spies + of a larger party, concealed in the forest through which we were now about + to pass. We prepared for defense by marching in a compact body, and + allowing no one to straggle far behind the others. We marched through many + miles of gloomy forest in gloomier silence, but nothing disturbed us. We + came to a village, and found all the men absent, the guides thought, in + the forest, with their countrymen. I was too ill to care much whether we + were attacked or not. Though a pouring rain came on, as we were all + anxious to get away out of a bad neighborhood, we proceeded. The thick + atmosphere prevented my seeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them; + so Pitsane, Mohorisi, and I, who alone were mounted, were often caught; + and as there is no stopping the oxen when they have the prospect of giving + the rider a tumble, we came frequently to the ground. In addition to these + mishaps, Sinbad went off at a plunging gallop, the bridle broke, and I + came down backward on the crown of my head. He gave me a kick on the thigh + at the same time. I felt none the worse for this rough treatment, but + would not recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever! This + last attack of fever was so obstinate that it reduced me almost to a + skeleton. The blanket which I used as a saddle on the back of the ox, + being frequently wet, remained so beneath me even in the hot sun, and, + aided by the heat of the ox, caused extensive abrasion of the skin, which + was continually healing and getting sore again. To this inconvenience was + now added the chafing of my projecting bones on the hard bed. + </p> + <p> + On Friday we came to a village of civil people on the banks of the Loajima + itself, and we were wet all day in consequence of crossing it. The bridges + over it, and another stream which we crossed at midday, were submerged, as + we have hitherto invariably found, by a flood of perfectly clear water. At + the second ford we were met by a hostile party who refused us further + passage. I ordered my men to proceed in the same direction we had been + pursuing, but our enemies spread themselves out in front of us with loud + cries. Our numbers were about equal to theirs this time, so I moved on at + the head of my men. Some ran off to other villages, or back to their own + village, on pretense of getting ammunition; others called out that all + traders came to them, and that we must do the same. As these people had + plenty of iron-headed arrows and some guns, when we came to the edge of + the forest I ordered my men to put the luggage in our centre; and, if our + enemies did not fire, to cut down some young trees and make a screen as + quickly as possible, but do nothing to them except in case of actual + attack. I then dismounted, and, advancing a little toward our principal + opponent, showed him how easily I could kill him, but pointed upward, + saying, "I fear God." He did the same, placing his hand on his heart, + pointing upward, and saying, "I fear to kill; but come to our village; + come—do come." At this juncture, the old head man, Ionga Panza, a + venerable negro, came up, and I invited him and all to be seated, that we + might talk the matter over. Ionga Panza soon let us know that he thought + himself very ill treated in being passed by. As most skirmishes arise from + misunderstanding, this might have been a serious one; for, like all the + tribes near the Portuguese settlements, people here imagine that they have + a right to demand payment from every one who passes through the country; + and now, though Ionga Panza was certainly no match for my men, yet they + were determined not to forego their right without a struggle. I removed + with my men to the vicinity of the village, thankful that no accident had + as yet brought us into actual collision. + </p> + <p> + The reason why the people have imbibed the idea so strongly that they have + a right to demand payment for leave to pass through the country is + probably this. They have seen no traders except those either engaged in + purchasing slaves, or who have slaves in their employment. These + slave-traders have always been very much at the mercy of the chiefs + through whose country they have passed; for if they afforded a ready + asylum for runaway slaves, the traders might be deserted at any moment, + and stripped of their property altogether. They are thus obliged to curry + favor with the chiefs, so as to get a safe conduct from them. The same + system is adopted to induce the chiefs to part with their people, whom all + feel to be the real source of their importance in the country. On the + return of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves, it is so + easy for a chief who may be so disposed to take away a chain of eight or + ten unresisting slaves, that the merchant is fain to give any amount of + presents in order to secure the good-will of the rulers. The independent + chiefs, not knowing why their favor is so eagerly sought, become + excessively proud and supercilious in their demands, and look upon white + men with the greatest contempt. To such lengths did the Bangala, a tribe + near to which we had now approached, proceed a few years ago, that they + compelled the Portuguese traders to pay for water, wood, and even grass, + and every possible pretext was invented for levying fines; and these were + patiently submitted to so long as the slave-trade continued to flourish. + We had unconsciously come in contact with a system which was quite unknown + in the country from which my men had set out. An English trader may there + hear a demand for payment of guides, but never, so far as I am aware, is + he asked to pay for leave to traverse a country. The idea does not seem to + have entered the native mind, except through slave-traders, for the + aborigines all acknowledge that the untilled land, not needed for + pasturage, belongs to God alone, and that no harm is done by people + passing through it. I rather believe that, wherever the slave-trade has + not penetrated, the visits of strangers are esteemed a real privilege. + </p> + <p> + The village of old Ionga Panza (lat. 10d 25' S., long. 20d 15' E.) is + small, and embowered in lofty evergreen trees, which were hung around with + fine festoons of creepers. He sent us food immediately, and soon afterward + a goat, which was considered a handsome gift, there being but few domestic + animals, though the country is well adapted for them. I suspect this, like + the country of Shinte and Katema, must have been a tsetse district, and + only recently rendered capable of supporting other domestic animals + besides the goat, by the destruction of the game through the extensive + introduction of fire-arms. We might all have been as ignorant of the + existence of this insect plague as the Portuguese, had it not been for the + numerous migrations of pastoral tribes which took place in the south in + consequence of Zulu irruptions. + </p> + <p> + During these exciting scenes I always forgot my fever, but a terrible + sense of sinking came back with the feeling of safety. The same demand of + payment for leave to pass was made on the 20th by old Ionga Panza as by + the other Chiboque. I offered the shell presented by Shinte, but Ionga + Panza said he was too old for ornaments. We might have succeeded very well + with him, for he was by no means unreasonable, and had but a very small + village of supporters; but our two guides from Kangenke complicated our + difficulties by sending for a body of Bangala traders, with a view to + force us to sell the tusks of Sekeletu, and pay them with the price. We + offered to pay them handsomely if they would perform their promise of + guiding us to Cassange, but they knew no more of the paths than we did; + and my men had paid them repeatedly, and tried to get rid of them, but + could not. They now joined with our enemies, and so did the traders. Two + guns and some beads belonging to the latter were standing in our + encampment, and the guides seized them and ran off. As my men knew that we + should be called upon to replace them, they gave chase, and when the + guides saw that they would be caught, they threw down the guns, directed + their flight to the village, and rushed into a hut. The doorway is not + much higher than that of a dog's kennel. One of the guides was reached by + one of my men as he was in the act of stooping to get in, and a cut was + inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have made any one + in that posture wince. The guns were restored, but the beads were lost in + the flight. All I had remaining of my stock of beads could not replace + those lost; and though we explained that we had no part in the guilt of + the act, the traders replied that we had brought the thieves into the + country; these were of the Bangala, who had been accustomed to plague the + Portuguese in the most vexatious way. We were striving to get a passage + through the country, and, feeling anxious that no crime whatever should be + laid to our charge, tried the conciliatory plan here, though we were not, + as in the other instances, likely to be overpowered by numbers. + </p> + <p> + My men offered all their ornaments, and I offered all my beads and shirts; + but, though we had come to the village against our will, and the guides + had also followed us contrary to our desire, and had even sent for the + Bangala traders without our knowledge or consent, yet matters could not be + arranged without our giving an ox and one of the tusks. We were all + becoming disheartened, and could not wonder that native expeditions from + the interior to the coast had generally failed to reach their + destinations. My people were now so much discouraged that some proposed to + return home; the prospect of being obliged to return when just on the + threshold of the Portuguese settlements distressed me exceedingly. After + using all my powers of persuasion, I declared to them that if they + returned I would go on alone, and went into my little tent with the mind + directed to Him who hears the sighing of the soul, and was soon followed + by the head of Mohorisi, saying, "We will never leave you. Do not be + disheartened. Wherever you lead we will follow. Our remarks were made only + on account of the injustice of these people." Others followed, and with + the most artless simplicity of manner told me to be comforted—"they + were all my children; they knew no one but Sekeletu and me, and they would + die for me; they had not fought because I did not wish it; they had just + spoken in the bitterness of their spirit, and when feeling that they could + do nothing; but if these enemies begin you will see what we can do." One + of the oxen we offered to the Chiboque had been rejected because he had + lost part of his tail, as they thought that it had been cut off and + witchcraft medicine inserted; and some mirth was excited by my proposing + to raise a similar objection to all the oxen we still had in our + possession. The remaining four soon presented a singular shortness of + their caudal extremities, and though no one ever asked whether they had + medicine in the stumps or no, we were no more troubled by the demand for + an ox! We now slaughtered another ox, that the spectacle might not be seen + of the owners of the cattle fasting while the Chiboque were feasting. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 19. + </h2> + <p> + Guides prepaid—Bark Canoes—Deserted by Guides—Mistakes + respecting the Coanza—Feelings of freed Slaves—Gardens and + Villages—Native Traders—A Grave—Valley of the Quango—Bamboo—White + Larvae used as Food—Bashinje Insolence—A posing Question—The + Chief Sansawe—His Hostility—Pass him safely—The River + Quango—Chief's mode of dressing his Hair—Opposition—Opportune + Aid by Cypriano—His generous Hospitality—Ability of + Half-castes to read and write—Books and Images—Marauding Party + burned in the Grass—Arrive at Cassange—A good Supper—Kindness + of Captain Neves—Portuguese Curiosity and Questions— + Anniversary of the Resurrection—No Prejudice against Color—Country + around Cassange—Sell Sekeletu's Ivory—Makololo's Surprise at + the high Price obtained—Proposal to return Home, and Reasons— + Soldier-guide—Hill Kasala—Tala Mungongo, Village of—Civility + of Basongo—True Negroes—A Field of Wheat— Carriers—Sleeping-places—Fever—Enter + District of Ambaca—Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching—The + 'Tampan'; its Bite—Universal Hospitality of the Portuguese—A + Tale of the Mambari—Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery—District + of Golungo Alto—Want of good Roads—Fertility—Forests of + gigantic Timber—Native Carpenters—Coffee Estate—Sterility + of Country near the Coast—Mosquitoes—Fears of the Makololo—Welcome + by Mr. Gabriel to Loanda. + </p> + <p> + 24TH. Ionga Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into the territory of the + Portuguese if I would give them the shell given by Shinte. I was strongly + averse to this, and especially to give it beforehand, but yielded to the + entreaty of my people to appear as if showing confidence in these hopeful + youths. They urged that they wished to leave the shell with their wives, + as a sort of payment to them for enduring their husbands' absence so long. + Having delivered the precious shell, we went west-by-north to the River + Chikapa, which here (lat. 10d 22' S.) is forty or fifty yards wide, and at + present was deep; it was seen flowing over a rocky, broken cataract with + great noise about half a mile above our ford. We were ferried over in a + canoe, made out of a single piece of bark sewed together at the ends, and + having sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs. The word + Chikapa means bark or skin; and as this is the only river in which we saw + this kind of canoe used, and we heard that this stream is so low during + most of the year as to be easily fordable, it probably derives its name + from the use made of the bark canoes when it is in flood. We now felt the + loss of our pontoon, for the people to whom the canoe belonged made us pay + once when we began to cross, then a second time when half of us were over, + and a third time when all were over but my principal man Pitsane and + myself. Loyanke took off his cloth and paid my passage with it. The + Makololo always ferried their visitors over rivers without pay, and now + began to remark that they must in future fleece the Mambari as these + Chiboque had done to us; they had all been loud in condemnation of the + meanness, and when I asked if they could descend to be equally mean, I was + answered that they would only do it in revenge. They like to have a + plausible excuse for meanness. + </p> + <p> + Next morning our guides went only about a mile, and then told us they + would return home. I expected this when paying them beforehand, in + accordance with the entreaties of the Makololo, who are rather ignorant of + the world. Very energetic remonstrances were addressed to the guides, but + they slipped off one by one in the thick forest through which we were + passing, and I was glad to hear my companions coming to the conclusion + that, as we were now in parts visited by traders, we did not require the + guides, whose chief use had been to prevent misapprehension of our objects + in the minds of the villagers. The country was somewhat more undulating + now than it had been, and several fine small streams flowed in deep woody + dells. The trees are very tall and straight, and the forests gloomy and + damp; the ground in these solitudes is quite covered with yellow and brown + mosses, and light-colored lichens clothe all the trees. The soil is + extremely fertile, being generally a black loam covered with a thick crop + of tall grasses. We passed several villages too. The head man of a large + one scolded us well for passing, when he intended to give us food. Where + slave-traders have been in the habit of coming, they present food, then + demand three or four times its value as a custom. We were now rather glad + to get past villages without intercourse with the inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + We were traveling W.N.W., and all the rivulets we here crossed had a + northerly course, and were reported to fall into the Kasai or Loke; most + of them had the peculiar boggy banks of the country. As we were now in the + alleged latitude of the Coanza, I was much astonished at the entire + absence of any knowledge of that river among the natives of this quarter. + But I was then ignorant of the fact that the Coanza rises considerably to + the west of this, and has a comparatively short course from its source to + the sea. + </p> + <p> + The famous Dr. Lacerda seems to have labored under the same mistake as + myself, for he recommended the government of Angola to establish a chain + of forts along the banks of that river, with a view to communication with + the opposite coast. As a chain of forts along its course would lead + southward instead of eastward, we may infer that the geographical data + within reach of that eminent man were no better than those according to + which I had directed my course to the Coanza where it does not exist. + </p> + <p> + 26TH. We spent Sunday on the banks of the Quilo or Kweelo, here a stream + of about ten yards wide. It runs in a deep glen, the sides of which are + almost five hundred yards of slope, and rocky, the rocks being hardened + calcareous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below, with a capping of + ferruginous conglomerate. The scenery would have been very pleasing, but + fever took away much of the joy of life, and severe daily intermittents + rendered me very weak and always glad to recline. + </p> + <p> + As we were now in the slave-market, it struck me that the sense of + insecurity felt by the natives might account for the circumstance that + those who have been sold as slaves and freed again, when questioned, + profess to like the new state better than their primitive one. They lived + on rich, fertile plains, which seldom inspire that love of country which + the mountains do. If they had been mountaineers, they would have pined for + home. To one who has observed the hard toil of the poor in old civilized + countries, the state in which the inhabitants here live is one of glorious + ease. The country is full of little villages. Food abounds, and very + little labor is required for its cultivation; the soil is so rich that no + manure is required; when a garden becomes too poor for good crops of + maize, millet, etc., the owner removes a little farther into the forest, + applies fire round the roots of the larger trees to kill them, cuts down + the smaller, and a new, rich garden is ready for the seed. The gardens + usually present the appearance of a large number of tall, dead trees + standing without bark, and maize growing between them. The old gardens + continue to yield manioc for years after the owners have removed to other + spots for the sake of millet and maize. But, while vegetable aliment is + abundant, there is a want of salt and animal food, so that numberless + traps are seen, set for mice, in all the forests of Londa. The vegetable + diet leaves great craving for flesh, and I have no doubt but that, when an + ordinary quantity of mixed food is supplied to freed slaves, they actually + do feel more comfortable than they did at home. Their assertions, however, + mean but little, for they always try to give an answer to please, and if + one showed them a nugget of gold, they would generally say that these + abounded in their country. + </p> + <p> + One could detect, in passing, the variety of character found among the + owners of gardens and villages. Some villages were the pictures of + neatness. We entered others enveloped in a wilderness of weeds, so high + that, when sitting on ox-back in the middle of the village, we could only + see the tops of the huts. If we entered at midday, the owners would come + lazily forth, pipe in hand, and leisurely puff away in dreamy + indifference. In some villages weeds are not allowed to grow; cotton, + tobacco, and different plants used as relishes are planted round the huts; + fowls are kept in cages, and the gardens present the pleasant spectacle of + different kinds of grain and pulse at various periods of their growth. I + sometimes admired the one class, and at times wished I could have taken + the world easy for a time like the other. Every village swarms with + children, who turn out to see the white man pass, and run along with + strange cries and antics; some run up trees to get a good view: all are + agile climbers throughout Londa. At friendly villages they have scampered + alongside our party for miles at a time. We usually made a little hedge + around our sheds; crowds of women came to the entrance of it, with + children on their backs, and long pipes in their mouths, gazing at us for + hours. The men, rather than disturb them, crawled through a hole in the + hedge, and it was common to hear a man in running off say to them, "I am + going to tell my mamma to come and see the white man's oxen." + </p> + <p> + In continuing our W.N.W. course, we met many parties of native traders, + each carrying some pieces of cloth and salt, with a few beads to barter + for bees'-wax. They are all armed with Portuguese guns, and have + cartridges with iron balls. When we meet we usually stand a few minutes. + They present a little salt, and we give a bit of ox-hide, or some other + trifle, and then part with mutual good wishes. The hide of the oxen we + slaughtered had been a valuable addition to our resources, for we found it + in so great repute for girdles all through Loanda that we cut up every + skin into strips about two inches broad, and sold them for meal and manioc + as we went along. As we came nearer Angola we found them of less value, as + the people there possess cattle themselves. + </p> + <p> + The village on the Kweelo, at which we spent Sunday, was that of a civil, + lively old man, called Sakandala, who offered no objections to our + progress. We found we should soon enter on the territory of the Bashinje + (Chinge of the Portuguese), who are mixed with another tribe, named + Bangala, which have been at war with the Babindele or Portuguese. Rains + and fever, as usual, helped to impede our progress until we were put on + the path which leads from Cassange and Bihe to Matiamvo, by a head man + named Kamboela. This was a well-beaten footpath, and soon after entering + upon it we met a party of half-caste traders from Bihe, who confirmed the + information we had already got of this path leading straight to Cassange, + through which they had come on their way from Bihe to Cabango. They kindly + presented my men with some tobacco, and marveled greatly when they found + that I had never been able to teach myself to smoke. On parting with them + we came to a trader's grave. This was marked by a huge cone of sticks + placed in the form of the roof of a hut, with a palisade around it. At an + opening on the western side an ugly idol was placed: several strings of + beads and bits of cloth were hung around. We learned that he had been a + half-caste, who had died on his way back from Matiamvo. + </p> + <p> + As we were now alone, and sure of being on the way to the abodes of + civilization, we went on briskly. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th we came to a sudden descent from the high land, indented by + deep, narrow valleys, over which we had lately been traveling. It is + generally so steep that it can only be descended at particular points, and + even there I was obliged to dismount, though so weak that I had to be led + by my companions to prevent my toppling over in walking down. It was + annoying to feel myself so helpless, for I never liked to see a man, + either sick or well, giving in effeminately. Below us lay the valley of + the Quango. If you sit on the spot where Mary Queen of Scots viewed the + battle of Langside, and look down on the vale of Clyde, you may see in + miniature the glorious sight which a much greater and richer valley + presented to our view. It is about a hundred miles broad, clothed with + dark forest, except where the light green grass covers meadow-lands on the + Quango, which here and there glances out in the sun as it wends its way to + the north. The opposite side of this great valley appears like a range of + lofty mountains, and the descent into it about a mile, which, measured + perpendicularly, may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet. Emerging + from the gloomy forests of Londa, this magnificent prospect made us all + feel as if a weight had been lifted off our eyelids. A cloud was passing + across the middle of the valley, from which rolling thunder pealed, while + above all was glorious sunlight; and when we went down to the part where + we saw it passing, we found that a very heavy thunder-shower had fallen + under the path of the cloud; and the bottom of the valley, which from + above seemed quite smooth, we discovered to be intersected and furrowed by + great numbers of deep-cut streams. Looking back from below, the descent + appears as the edge of a table-land, with numerous indented dells and + spurs jutting out all along, giving it a serrated appearance. Both the top + and sides of the sierra are covered with trees, but large patches of the + more perpendicular parts are bare, and exhibit the red soil, which is + general over the region we have now entered. + </p> + <p> + The hollow affords a section of this part of the country; and we find that + the uppermost stratum is the ferruginous conglomerate already mentioned. + The matrix is rust of iron (or hydrous peroxide of iron and hematite), and + in it are imbedded water-worn pebbles of sandstone and quartz. As this is + the rock underlying the soil of a large part of Londa, its formation must + have preceded the work of denudation by an arm of the sea, which washed + away the enormous mass of matter required before the valley of Cassange + could assume its present form. The strata under the conglomerate are all + of red clay shale of different degrees of hardness, the most indurated + being at the bottom. This red clay shale is named "keele" in Scotland, and + has always been considered as an indication of gold; but the only thing we + discovered was that it had given rise to a very slippery clay soil, so + different from that which we had just left that Mashauana, who always + prided himself on being an adept at balancing himself in the canoe on + water, and so sure of foot on land that he could afford to express + contempt for any one less gifted, came down in a very sudden and + undignified manner, to the delight of all whom he had previously scolded + for falling. + </p> + <p> + Here we met with the bamboo as thick as a man's arm, and many new trees. + Others, which we had lost sight of since leaving Shinte, now reappeared; + but nothing struck us more than the comparative scragginess of the trees + in this hollow. Those on the high lands we had left were tall and + straight; here they were stunted, and not by any means so closely planted + together. The only way I could account for this was by supposing, as the + trees were of different species, that the greater altitude suited the + nature of those above better than the lower altitude did the other species + below. + </p> + <p> + SUNDAY, APRIL 2D. We rested beside a small stream, and our hunger being + now very severe, from having lived on manioc alone since leaving Ionza + Panza's, we slaughtered one of our four remaining oxen. The people of this + district seem to feel the craving for animal food as much as we did, for + they spend much energy in digging large white larvae out of the damp soil + adjacent to their streams, and use them as a relish to their vegetable + diet. The Bashinje refused to sell any food for the poor old ornaments my + men had now to offer. We could get neither meal nor manioc, but should + have been comfortable had not the Bashinje chief Sansawe pestered us for + the customary present. The native traders informed us that a display of + force was often necessary before they could pass this man. + </p> + <p> + Sansawe, the chief of a portion of the Bashinje, having sent the usual + formal demand for a man, an ox, or a tusk, spoke very contemptuously of + the poor things we offered him instead. We told his messengers that the + tusks were Sekeletu's: every thing was gone except my instruments, which + could be of no use to them whatever. One of them begged some meat, and, + when it was refused, said to my men, "You may as well give it, for we + shall take all after we have killed you to-morrow." The more humbly we + spoke, the more insolent the Bashinje became, till at last we were all + feeling savage and sulky, but continued to speak as civilly as we could. + They are fond of argument, and when I denied their right to demand tribute + from a white man, who did not trade in slaves, an old white-headed negro + put rather a posing question: "You know that God has placed chiefs among + us whom we ought to support. How is it that you, who have a book that + tells you about him, do not come forward at once to pay this chief tribute + like every one else?" I replied by asking, "How could I know that this was + a chief, who had allowed me to remain a day and a half near him without + giving me any thing to eat?" This, which to the uninitiated may seem + sophistry, was to the Central Africans quite a rational question, for he + at once admitted that food ought to have been sent, and added that + probably his chief was only making it ready for me, and that it would come + soon. + </p> + <p> + After being wearied by talking all day to different parties sent by + Sansawe, we were honored by a visit from himself: he is quite a young man, + and of rather a pleasing countenance. There can not have been much + intercourse between real Portuguese and these people even here, so close + to the Quango, for Sansawe asked me to show him my hair, on the ground + that, though he had heard of it, and some white men had even passed + through his country, he had never seen straight hair before. This is quite + possible, as most of the slave-traders are not Portuguese, but + half-castes. The difference between their wool and our hair caused him to + burst into a laugh, and the contrast between the exposed and unexposed + parts of my skin, when exhibited in evidence of our all being made of one + stock originally, and the children of one Maker, seemed to strike him with + wonder. I then showed him my watch, and wished to win my way into his + confidence by conversation; but, when about to exhibit my pocket compass, + he desired me to desist, as he was afraid of my wonderful things. I told + him, if he knew my aims as the tribes in the interior did, and as I hoped + he would yet know them and me, he would be glad to stay, and see also the + pictures of the magic lantern; but, as it was now getting dark, he had + evidently got enough of my witchery, and began to use some charms to + dispel any kindly feelings he might have found stealing round his heart. + He asked leave to go, and when his party moved off a little way, he sent + for my spokesman, and told him that, "if we did not add a red jacket and a + man to our gift of a few copper rings and a few pounds of meat, we must + return by the way we had come." I said in reply "that we should certainly + go forward next day, and if he commenced hostilities, the blame before God + would be that of Sansawe;" and my man added of his own accord, "How many + white men have you killed in this path?" which might be interpreted into, + "You have never killed any white man, and you will find ours more + difficult to manage than you imagine." It expressed a determination, which + we had often repeated to each other, to die rather than yield one of our + party to be a slave. + </p> + <p> + Hunger has a powerful effect on the temper. When we had got a good meal of + meat, we could all bear the petty annoyances of these borderers on the + more civilized region in front with equanimity; but having suffered + considerably of late, we were all rather soured in our feelings, and not + unfrequently I overheard my companions remark in their own tongue, in + answer to threats of attack, "That's what we want: only begin then;" or + with clenched teeth they would exclaim to each other, "These things have + never traveled, and do not know what men are." The worrying, of which I + give only a slight sketch, had considerable influence on my own mind, and + more especially as it was impossible to make any allowance for the + Bashinje, such as I was willing to award to the Chiboque. They saw that we + had nothing to give, nor would they be benefited in the least by enforcing + the impudent order to return whence we had come. They were adding insult + to injury, and this put us all into a fighting spirit, and, as nearly as + we could judge, we expected to be obliged to cut our way through the + Bashinje next morning. + </p> + <p> + 3D APRIL. As soon as day dawned we were astir, and, setting off in a + drizzling rain, passed close to the village. This rain probably damped the + ardor of the robbers. We, however, expected to be fired upon from every + clump of trees, or from some of the rocky hillocks among which we were + passing; and it was only after two hours' march that we began to breathe + freely, and my men remarked, in thankfulness, "We are children of Jesus." + We continued our course, notwithstanding the rain, across the bottom of + the Quango Valley, which we found broken by clay shale rocks jutting out, + though lying nearly horizontally. The grass in all the hollows, at this + time quite green, was about two feet higher than my head while sitting on + ox-back. This grass, wetted by the rain, acted as a shower-bath on one + side of our bodies; and some deep gullies, full of DISCOLORED water, + completed the cooling process. We passed many villages during this + drenching, one of which possessed a flock of sheep; and after six hours we + came to a stand near the River Quango (lat. 9d 53' S., long. 18d 37' E.), + which may be called the boundary of the Portuguese claims to territory on + the west. As I had now no change of clothing, I was glad to cower under + the shelter of my blanket, thankful to God for his goodness in bringing us + so far without losing one of the party. + </p> + <p> + 4TH APRIL. We were now on the banks of the Quango, a river one hundred and + fifty yards wide, and very deep. The water was discolored—a + circumstance which we had observed in no river in Londa or in the Makololo + country. This fine river flows among extensive meadows clothed with + gigantic grass and reeds, and in a direction nearly north. + </p> + <p> + The Quango is said by the natives to contain many venomous water-snakes, + which congregate near the carcass of any hippopotamus that may be killed + in it. If this is true, it may account for all the villages we saw being + situated far from its banks. We were advised not to sleep near it; but, as + we were anxious to cross to the western side, we tried to induce some of + the Bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose. This brought out the chief + of these parts, who informed us that all the canoe-men were his children, + and nothing could be done without his authority. He then made the usual + demand for a man, an ox, or a gun, adding that otherwise we must return to + the country from which we had come. As I did not believe that this man had + any power over the canoes of the other side, and suspected that if I gave + him my blanket—the only thing I now had in reserve—he might + leave us in the lurch after all, I tried to persuade my men to go at once + to the bank, about two miles off, and obtain possession of the canoes + before we gave up the blanket; but they thought that this chief might + attack us in the act of crossing, should we do so. The chief came himself + to our encampment and made his demand again. My men stripped off the last + of their copper rings and gave them; but he was still intent on a man. He + thought, as others did, that my men were slaves. He was a young man, with + his woolly hair elaborately dressed: that behind was made up into a cone, + about eight inches in diameter at the base, carefully swathed round with + red and black thread. As I resisted the proposal to deliver up my blanket + until they had placed us on the western bank, this chief continued to + worry us with his demands till I was tired. My little tent was now in + tatters, and having a wider hole behind than the door in front, I tried in + vain to lie down out of sight of our persecutors. We were on a reedy flat, + and could not follow our usual plan of a small stockade, in which we had + time to think over and concoct our plans. As I was trying to persuade my + men to move on to the bank in spite of these people, a young half-caste + Portuguese sergeant of militia, Cypriano di Abreu, made his appearance, + and gave the same advice. He had come across the Quango in search of + bees'-wax. When we moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us, his + people opened a fire from our sheds, and continued to blaze away some time + in the direction we were going, but none of the bullets reached us. It is + probable that they expected a demonstration of the abundance of ammunition + they possessed would make us run; but when we continued to move quietly to + the ford, they proceeded no farther than our sleeping-place. Cypriano + assisted us in making a more satisfactory arrangement with the ferrymen + than parting with my blanket; and as soon as we reached the opposite bank + we were in the territory of the Bangala, who are subjects of the + Portuguese, and often spoken of as the Cassanges or Cassantse; and happily + all our difficulties with the border tribes were at an end. + </p> + <p> + Passing with light hearts through the high grass by a narrow footpath for + about three miles to the west of the river, we came to several neat square + houses, with many cleanly-looking half-caste Portuguese standing in front + of them to salute us. They are all enrolled in the militia, and our friend + Cypriano is the commander of a division established here. The Bangala were + very troublesome to the Portuguese traders, and at last proceeded so far + as to kill one of them; the government of Angola then sent an expedition + against them, which being successful, the Bangala were dispersed, and are + now returning to their former abodes as vassals. The militia are quartered + among them, and engage in trade and agriculture for their support, as no + pay is given to this branch of the service by the government. + </p> + <p> + We came to the dwelling of Cypriano after dark, and I pitched my little + tent in front of it for the night. We had the company of mosquitoes here. + We never found them troublesome on the banks of the pure streams of Londa. + On the morning of the 5th Cypriano generously supplied my men with + pumpkins and maize, and then invited me to breakfast, which consisted of + ground-nuts and roasted maize, then boiled manioc roots and ground-nuts, + with guavas and honey as a dessert. I felt sincerely grateful for this + magnificent breakfast. + </p> + <p> + At dinner Cypriano was equally bountiful, and several of his friends + joined us in doing justice to his hospitality. Before eating, all had + water poured on the hands by a female slave to wash them. One of the + guests cut up a fowl with a knife and fork. Neither forks nor spoons were + used in eating. The repast was partaken of with decency and good manners, + and concluded by washing the hands as at first. + </p> + <p> + All of them could read and write with ease. I examined the books they + possessed, and found a small work on medicine, a small cyclopaedia, and a + Portuguese dictionary, in which the definition of a "priest" seemed + strange to a Protestant, namely, "one who takes care of the conscience." + They had also a few tracts containing the Lives of the Saints, and + Cypriano had three small wax images of saints in his room. One of these + was St. Anthony, who, had he endured the privations he did in his cell in + looking after these lost sheep, would have lived to better purpose. + Neither Cypriano nor his companions knew what the Bible was, but they had + relics in German-silver cases hung round their necks, to act as charms and + save them from danger by land or by water, in the same way as the heathen + have medicines. It is a pity that the Church to which they belong, when + unable to attend to the wants of her children, does not give them the + sacred writings in their own tongue; it would surely be better to see them + good Protestants, if these would lead them to be so, than entirely + ignorant of God's message to man. For my part, I would much prefer to see + the Africans good Roman Catholics than idolatrous heathen. + </p> + <p> + Much of the civility shown to us here was, no doubt, owing to the + flattering letters of recommendation I carried from the Chevalier Du Prat, + of Cape Town; but I am inclined to believe that my friend Cypriano was + influenced, too, by feelings of genuine kindness, for he quite bared his + garden in feeding us during the few days which I remained, anxiously + expecting the clouds to disperse, so far as to allow of my taking + observations for the determination of the position of the Quango. He + slaughtered an ox for us, and furnished his mother and her maids with + manioc roots, to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey + to Cassange, and never even hinted at payment. My wretched appearance must + have excited his compassion. The farina is prepared by washing the roots + well, then rasping them down to a pulp. Next, this is roasted slightly on + a metal plate over a fire, and is then used with meat as a vegetable. It + closely resembles wood-sawings, and on that account is named "wood-meal". + It is insipid, and employed to lick up any gravy remaining on one's plate. + Those who have become accustomed to it relish it even after they have + returned to Europe. + </p> + <p> + The manioc cultivated here is of the sweet variety; the bitter, to which + we were accustomed in Londa, is not to be found very extensively in this + fertile valley. May is the beginning of winter, yet many of the + inhabitants were busy planting maize; that which we were now eating was + planted in the beginning of February. The soil is exceedingly fertile, of + a dark red color, and covered with such a dense, heavy crop of coarse + grass, that when a marauding party of Ambonda once came for plunder while + it was in a dried state, the Bangala encircled the common enemy with a + fire which completely destroyed them. This, which is related on the + authority of Portuguese who were then in the country, I can easily believe + to be true, for the stalks of the grass are generally as thick as + goose-quills, and no flight could be made through the mass of grass in any + direction where a footpath does not exist. Probably, in the case + mentioned, the direction of the wind was such as to drive the flames + across the paths, and prevent escape along them. On one occasion I nearly + lost my wagon by fire, in a valley where the grass was only about three + feet high. We were roused by the roar, as of a torrent, made by the fire + coming from the windward. I immediately set fire to that on our leeward, + and had just time to drag the wagon on to the bare space there before the + windward flames reached the place where it had stood. + </p> + <p> + We were detained by rains and a desire to ascertain our geographical + position till Monday, the 10th, and only got the latitude 9d 50' S.; and, + after three days' pretty hard traveling through the long grass, reached + Cassange, the farthest inland station of the Portuguese in Western Africa. + We crossed several fine little streams running into the Quango; and as the + grass continued to tower about two feet over our heads, it generally + obstructed our view of the adjacent country, and sometimes hung over the + path, making one side of the body wet with the dew every morning, or, when + it rained, kept me wet during the whole day. I made my entrance in a + somewhat forlorn state as to clothing among our Portuguese allies. The + first gentleman I met in the village asked if I had a passport, and said + it was necessary to take me before the authorities. As I was in the same + state of mind in which individuals are who commit a petty depredation in + order to obtain the shelter and food of a prison, I gladly accompanied him + to the house of the commandant or Chefe, Senhor de Silva Rego. Having + shown my passport to this gentleman, he politely asked me to supper, and, + as we had eaten nothing except the farina of Cypriano from the Quango to + this, I suspect I appeared particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen + around the table. They seemed, however, to understand my position pretty + well, from having all traveled extensively themselves; had they not been + present, I might have put some in my pocket to eat by night; for, after + fever, the appetite is excessively keen, and manioc is one of the most + unsatisfying kinds of food. Captain Antonio Rodrigues Neves then kindly + invited me to take up my abode in his house. Next morning this generous + man arrayed me in decent clothing, and continued during the whole period + of my stay to treat me as if I had been his brother. I feel deeply + grateful to him for his disinterested kindness. He not only attended to my + wants, but also furnished food for my famishing party free of charge. + </p> + <p> + The village of Cassange (pronounced Kassanje) is composed of thirty or + forty traders' houses, scattered about without any regularity, on an + elevated flat spot in the great Quango or Cassange valley. They are built + of wattle and daub, and surrounded by plantations of manioc, maize, etc. + Behind them there are usually kitchen gardens, in which the common + European vegetables, as potatoes, peas, cabbages, onions, tomatoes, etc., + etc., grow. Guavas and bananas appear, from the size and abundance of the + trees, to have been introduced many years ago, while the land was still in + the possession of the natives; but pine-apples, orange, fig, and cashew + trees have but lately been tried. There are about forty Portuguese traders + in this district, all of whom are officers in the militia, and many of + them have become rich from adopting the plan of sending out Pombeiros, or + native traders, with large quantities of goods, to trade in the more + remote parts of the country. Some of the governors of Loanda, the capital + of this, the kingdom of Angola, have insisted on the observance of a law + which, from motives of humanity, forbids the Portuguese themselves from + passing beyond the boundary. They seem to have taken it for granted that, + in cases where the white trader was killed, the aggression had been made + by him, and they wished to avoid the necessity of punishing those who had + been provoked to shed Portuguese blood. This indicates a much greater + impartiality than has obtained in our own dealings with the Caffres, for + we have engaged in most expensive wars with them without once inquiring + whether any of the fault lay with our frontier colonists. The Cassange + traders seem inclined to spread along the Quango, in spite of the desire + of their government to keep them on one spot, for mutual protection in + case of war. If I might judge from the week of feasting I passed among + them, they are generally prosperous. + </p> + <p> + As I always preferred to appear in my own proper character, I was an + object of curiosity to these hospitable Portuguese. They evidently looked + upon me as an agent of the English government, engaged in some new + movement for the suppression of slavery. They could not divine what a + "missionario" had to do with the latitudes and longitudes, which I was + intent on observing. When we became a little familiar, the questions put + were rather amusing: "Is it common for missionaries to be doctors?" "Are + you a doctor of medicine and a 'doutor mathematico' too? You must be more + than a missionary to know how to calculate the longitude! Come, tell us at + once what rank you hold in the English army." They may have given credit + to my reason for wearing the mustache, as that explains why men have + beards and women have none; but that which puzzled many besides my + Cassange friends was the anomaly of my being a "sacerdote", with a wife + and four children! I usually got rid of the last question by putting + another: "Is it not better to have children with a wife, than to have + children without a wife?" But all were most kind and hospitable; and as + one of their festivals was near, they invited me to partake of the feast. + </p> + <p> + The anniversary of the Resurrection of our Savior was observed on the 16th + of April as a day of rejoicing, though the Portuguese have no priests at + Cassange. The colored population dressed up a figure intended to represent + Judas Iscariot, and paraded him on a riding-ox about the village; sneers + and maledictions were freely bestowed on the poor wretch thus represented. + The slaves and free colored population, dressed in their gayest clothing, + made visits to all the principal merchants, and wishing them "a good + feast", expected a present in return. This, though frequently granted in + the shape of pieces of calico to make new dresses, was occasionally + refused, but the rebuff did not much affect the petitioner. + </p> + <p> + At ten A.M. we went to the residence of the commandant, and on a signal + being given, two of the four brass guns belonging to the government + commenced firing, and continued some time, to the great admiration of my + men, whose ideas of the power of a cannon are very exalted. The Portuguese + flag was hoisted and trumpets sounded, as an expression of joy at the + resurrection of our Lord. Captain Neves invited all the principal + inhabitants of the place, and did what he could to feast them in a + princely style. All manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine from + Portugal, biscuits from America, butter from Cork, and beer from England, + were displayed, and no expense spared in rendering the entertainment + joyous. After the feast was over they sat down to the common amusement of + card-playing, which continued till eleven o'clock at night. As far as a + mere traveler could judge, they seemed to be polite and willing to aid + each other. They live in a febrile district, and many of them had enlarged + spleens. They have neither doctor, apothecary, school, nor priest, and, + when taken ill, trust to each other and to Providence. As men left in such + circumstances must think for themselves, they have all a good idea of what + ought to be done in the common diseases of the country, and what they have + of either medicine or skill they freely impart to each other. + </p> + <p> + None of these gentlemen had Portuguese wives. They usually come to Africa + in order to make a little money, and return to Lisbon. Hence they seldom + bring their wives with them, and never can be successful colonists in + consequence. It is common for them to have families by native women. It + was particularly gratifying to me, who had been familiar with the stupid + prejudice against color, entertained only by those who are themselves + becoming tawny, to view the liberality with which people of color were + treated by the Portuguese. Instances, so common in the South, in which + half-caste children are abandoned, are here extremely rare. They are + acknowledged at table, and provided for by their fathers as if European. + The colored clerks of the merchants sit at the same table with their + employers without any embarrassment. The civil manners of superiors to + inferiors is probably the result of the position they occupy—a few + whites among thousands of blacks; but nowhere else in Africa is there so + much good-will between Europeans and natives as here. If some border + colonists had the absolute certainty of our government declining to bear + them out in their arrogance, we should probably hear less of Caffre + insolence. It is insolence which begets insolence. + </p> + <p> + From the village of Cassange we have a good view of the surrounding + country: it is a gently undulating plain, covered with grass and patches + of forest. The western edge of the Quango valley appears, about twenty + miles off, as if it were a range of lofty mountains, and passes by the + name of Tala Mungongo, "Behold the Range". In the old Portuguese map, to + which I had been trusting in planning my route, it is indicated as Talla + Mugongo, or "Castle of Rocks!" and the Coanza is put down as rising + therefrom; but here I was assured that the Coanza had its source near + Bihe, far to the southwest of this, and we should not see that river till + we came near Pungo Andonga. It is somewhat remarkable that more accurate + information about this country has not been published. Captain Neves and + others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers, and communicated + their knowledge freely; yet about this time maps were sent to Europe from + Angola representing the Quango and Coanza as the same river, and Cassange + placed about one hundred miles from its true position. The frequent + recurrence of the same name has probably helped to increase the confusion. + I have crossed several Quangos, but all insignificant, except that which + drains this valley. The repetition of the favorite names of chiefs, as + Catende, is also perplexing, as one Catende may be mistaken for another. + To avoid this confusion as much as possible, I have refrained from + introducing many names. Numerous villages are studded all over the valley; + but these possess no permanence, and many more existed previous to the + Portuguese expedition of 1850 to punish the Bangala. + </p> + <p> + This valley, as I have before remarked, is all fertile in the extreme. My + men could never cease admiring its capability for raising their corn + ('Holcus sorghum'), and despising the comparatively limited cultivation of + the inhabitants. The Portuguese informed me that no manure is ever needed, + but that, the more the ground is tilled, the better it yields. Virgin soil + does not give such a heavy crop as an old garden, and, judging from the + size of the maize and manioc in the latter, I can readily believe the + statement. Cattle do well, too. Viewing the valley as a whole, it may be + said that its agricultural and pastoral riches are lying waste. Both the + Portuguese and their descendants turn their attention almost exclusively + to trade in wax and ivory, and though the country would yield any amount + of corn and dairy produce, the native Portuguese live chiefly on manioc, + and the Europeans purchase their flour, bread, butter, and cheese from the + Americans. + </p> + <p> + As the traders of Cassange were the first white men we had come to, we + sold the tusks belonging to Sekeletu, which had been brought to test the + difference of prices in the Makololo and white men's country. The result + was highly satisfactory to my companions, as the Portuguese give much + larger prices for ivory than traders from the Cape can possibly give, who + labor under the disadvantage of considerable overland expenses and ruinous + restrictions. Two muskets, three small barrels of gunpowder, and English + calico and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party, with large bunches + of beads, all for one tusk, were quite delightful for those who had been + accustomed to give two tusks for one gun. With another tusk we procured + calico, which here is the chief currency, to pay our way down to the + coast. The remaining two were sold for money to purchase a horse for + Sekeletu at Loanda. + </p> + <p> + The superiority of this new market was quite astounding to the Makololo, + and they began to abuse the traders by whom they had, while in their own + country, been visited, and, as they now declared, "cheated". They had no + idea of the value of time and carriage, and it was somewhat difficult for + me to convince them that the reason of the difference of prices lay + entirely in what they themselves had done in coming here, and that, if the + Portuguese should carry goods to their country, they would by no means be + so liberal in their prices. They imagined that, if the Cassange traders + came to Linyanti, they would continue to vend their goods at Cassange + prices. I believe I gave them at last a clear idea of the manner in which + prices were regulated by the expenses incurred; and when we went to + Loanda, and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate, they concluded + that it would be better for them to come to that city, than to turn + homeward at Cassange. + </p> + <p> + It was interesting for me to observe the effects of the restrictive policy + pursued by the Cape government toward the Bechuanas. Like all other + restrictions on trade, the law of preventing friendly tribes from + purchasing arms and ammunition only injures the men who enforce it. The + Cape government, as already observed, in order to gratify a company of + independent Boers, whose well-known predilection for the practice of + slavery caused them to stipulate that a number of peaceable, honest tribes + should be kept defenseless, agreed to allow free trade in arms and + ammunition to the Boers, and prevent the same trade to the Bechuanas. The + Cape government thereby unintentionally aided, and continues to aid, the + Boers to enslave the natives. But arms and ammunition flow in on all sides + by new channels, and where formerly the price of a large tusk procured but + one musket, one tusk of the same size now brings ten. The profits are + reaped by other nations, and the only persons really the losers, in the + long run, are our own Cape merchants, and a few defenseless tribes of + Bechuanas on our immediate frontier. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Rego, the commandant, very handsomely offered me a soldier as a guard + to Ambaca. My men told me that they had been thinking it would be better + to turn back here, as they had been informed by the people of color at + Cassange that I was leading them down to the sea-coast only to sell them, + and they would be taken on board ship, fattened, and eaten, as the white + men were cannibals. I asked if they had ever heard of an Englishman buying + or selling people; if I had not refused to take a slave when she was + offered to me by Shinte; but, as I had always behaved as an English + teacher, if they now doubted my intentions, they had better not go to the + coast; I, however, who expected to meet some of my countrymen there, was + determined to go on. They replied that they only thought it right to tell + me what had been told to them, but they did not intend to leave me, and + would follow wherever I should lead the way. This affair being disposed of + for the time, the commandant gave them an ox, and me a friendly dinner + before parting. All the merchants of Cassange accompanied us, in their + hammocks carried by slaves, to the edge of the plateau on which their + village stands, and we parted with the feeling in my mind that I should + never forget their disinterested kindness. They not only did every thing + they could to make my men and me comfortable during our stay; but, there + being no hotels in Loanda, they furnished me with letters of + recommendation to their friends in that city, requesting them to receive + me into their houses, for without these a stranger might find himself a + lodger in the streets. May God remember them in their day of need! + </p> + <p> + The latitude and longitude of Cassange, the most easterly station of the + Portuguese in Western Africa, is lat. 9d 37' 30" S., and long. 17d 49' E.; + consequently we had still about 300 miles to traverse before we could + reach the coast. We had a black militia corporal as a guide. He was a + native of Ambaca, and, like nearly all the inhabitants of that district, + known by the name of Ambakistas, could both read and write. He had three + slaves with him, and was carried by them in a "tipoia", or hammock slung + to a pole. His slaves were young, and unable to convey him far at a time, + but he was considerate enough to walk except when we came near to a + village. He then mounted his tipoia and entered the village in state; his + departure was made in the same manner, and he continued in the hammock + till the village was out of sight. It was interesting to observe the + manners of our soldier-guide. Two slaves were always employed in carrying + his tipoia, and the third carried a wooden box, about three feet long, + containing his writing materials, dishes, and clothing. He was cleanly in + all his ways, and, though quite black himself, when he scolded any one of + his own color, abused him as a "negro". When he wanted to purchase any + article from a village, he would sit down, mix a little gunpowder as ink, + and write a note in a neat hand to ask the price, addressing it to the + shopkeeper with the rather pompous title, "Illustrissimo Senhor" (Most + Illustrious Sir). This is the invariable mode of address throughout + Angola. The answer returned would be in the same style, and, if + satisfactory, another note followed to conclude the bargain. There is so + much of this note correspondence carried on in Angola, that a very large + quantity of paper is annually consumed. Some other peculiarities of our + guide were not so pleasing. A land of slaves is a bad school for even the + free; and I was sorry to find less truthfulness and honesty in him than in + my own people. We were often cheated through his connivance with the + sellers of food, and could perceive that he got a share of the plunder + from them. The food is very cheap, but it was generally made dear enough, + until I refused to allow him to come near the place where we were + bargaining. But he took us safely down to Ambaca, and I was glad to see, + on my return to Cassange, that he was promoted to be sergeant-major of a + company of militia. + </p> + <p> + Having left Cassange on the 21st, we passed across the remaining portion + of this excessively fertile valley to the foot of Tala Mungongo. We + crossed a fine little stream called the Lui on the 22d, and another named + the Luare on the 24th, then slept at the bottom of the height, which is + from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. The clouds came floating along + the valley, and broke against the sides of the ascent, and the dripping + rain on the tall grass made the slaps in the face it gave, when the hand + or a stick was not held up before it, any thing but agreeable. This edge + of the valley is exactly like the other; jutting spurs and defiles give + the red ascent the same serrated appearance as that which we descended + from the highlands of Londa. The whole of this vast valley has been + removed by denudation, for pieces of the plateau which once filled the now + vacant space stand in it, and present the same structure of red horizontal + strata of equal altitudes with those of the acclivity which we are now + about to ascend. One of these insulated masses, named Kasala, bore E.S.E. + from the place where we made our exit from the valley, and about ten miles + W.S.W. from the village of Cassange. It is remarkable for its + perpendicular sides; even the natives find it extremely difficult, almost + impossible, to reach its summit, though there is the temptation of + marabou-nests and feathers, which are highly prized. There is a small lake + reported to exist on its southern end, and, during the rainy season, a + sort of natural moat is formed around the bottom. What an acquisition this + would have been in feudal times in England! There is land sufficient for + considerable cultivation on the top, with almost perpendicular sides more + than a thousand feet in height. + </p> + <p> + We had not yet got a clear idea of the nature of Tala Mungongo. A + gentleman of Cassange described it as a range of very high mountains, + which it would take four hours to climb; so, though the rain and grass had + wetted us miserably, and I was suffering from an attack of fever got while + observing by night for the position of Cassange, I eagerly commenced the + ascent. The path was steep and slippery; deep gorges appear on each side + of it, leaving but a narrow path along certain spurs of the sierra for the + traveler; but we accomplished the ascent in an hour, and when there, found + we had just got on to a table-land similar to that we had left before we + entered the great Quango valley. We had come among lofty trees again. One + of these, bearing a fruit about the size of a thirty-two pounder, is named + Mononga-zambi. + </p> + <p> + We took a glance back to this valley, which equals that of the Mississippi + in fertility, and thought of the vast mass of material which had been + scooped out and carried away in its formation. This naturally led to + reflection on the countless ages required for the previous formation and + deposition of that same material (clay shale), then of the rocks, whose + abrasion formed THAT, until the mind grew giddy in attempting to ascend + the steps which lead up through a portion of the eternity before man. The + different epochs of geology are like landmarks in that otherwise shoreless + sea. Our own epoch, or creation, is but another added to the number of + that wonderful series which presents a grand display of the mighty power + of God: every stage of progress in the earth and its habitants is such a + display. So far from this science having any tendency to make men + undervalue the power or love of God, it leads to the probability that the + exhibition of mercy we have in the gift of his Son may possibly not be the + only manifestation of grace which has taken place in the countless ages + during which works of creation have been going on. + </p> + <p> + Situated a few miles from the edge of the descent, we found the village of + Tala Mungongo, and were kindly accommodated with a house to sleep in, + which was very welcome, as we were all both wet and cold. We found that + the greater altitude and the approach of winter lowered the temperature so + much that many of my men suffered severely from colds. At this, as at + several other Portuguese stations, they have been provident enough to + erect travelers' houses on the same principle as khans or caravanserais of + the East. They are built of the usual wattle and daub, and have benches of + rods for the wayfarer to make his bed on; also chairs, and a table, and a + large jar of water. These benches, though far from luxurious couches, were + better than the ground under the rotten fragments of my gipsy-tent, for we + had still showers occasionally, and the dews were very heavy. I continued + to use them for the sake of the shelter they afforded, until I found that + they were lodgings also for certain inconvenient bedfellows. + </p> + <p> + 27TH. Five hours' ride through a pleasant country of forest and meadow, + like those of Londa, brought us to a village of Basongo, a tribe living in + subjection to the Portuguese. We crossed several little streams, which + were flowing in the westerly direction in which we were marching, and + unite to form the Quize, a feeder of the Coanza. The Basongo were very + civil, as indeed all the tribes were who had been conquered by the + Portuguese. The Basongo and Bangala are yet only partially subdued. The + farther west we go from this, the less independent we find the black + population, until we reach the vicinity of Loanda, where the free natives + are nearly identical in their feelings toward the government with the + slaves. But the governors of Angola wisely accept the limited allegiance + and tribute rendered by the more distant tribes as better than none. + </p> + <p> + All the inhabitants of this region, as well as those of Londa, may be + called true negroes, if the limitations formerly made be borne in mind. + The dark color, thick lips, heads elongated backward and upward and + covered with wool, flat noses, with other negro peculiarities, are + general; but, while these characteristics place them in the true negro + family, the reader would imbibe a wrong idea if he supposed that all these + features combined are often met with in one individual. All have a certain + thickness and prominence of lip, but many are met with in every village in + whom thickness and projection are not more marked than in Europeans. All + are dark, but the color is shaded off in different individuals from deep + black to light yellow. As we go westward, we observe the light color + predominating over the dark, and then again, when we come within the + influence of damp from the sea air, we find the shade deepen into the + general blackness of the coast population. The shape of the head, with its + woolly crop, though general, is not universal. The tribes on the eastern + side of the continent, as the Caffres, have heads finely developed and + strongly European. Instances of this kind are frequently seen, and after I + became so familiar with the dark color as to forget it in viewing the + countenance, I was struck by the strong resemblance some natives bore to + certain of our own notabilities. The Bushmen and Hottentots are exceptions + to these remarks, for both the shape of their heads and growth of wool are + peculiar; the latter, for instance, springs from the scalp in tufts with + bare spaces between, and when the crop is short, resembles a number of + black pepper-corns stuck on the skin, and very unlike the thick frizzly + masses which cover the heads of the Balonda and Maravi. With every + disposition to pay due deference to the opinions of those who have made + ethnology their special study, I have felt myself unable to believe that + the exaggerated features usually put forth as those of the typical negro + characterize the majority of any nation of south Central Africa. The + monuments of the ancient Egyptians seem to me to embody the ideal of the + inhabitants of Londa better than the figures of any work of ethnology I + have met with. + </p> + <p> + Passing through a fine, fertile, and well-peopled country to Sanza, we + found the Quize River again touching our path, and here we had the + pleasure of seeing a field of wheat growing luxuriantly without + irrigation. The ears were upward of four inches long, an object of great + curiosity to my companions, because they had tasted my bread at Linyanti, + but had never before seen wheat growing. This small field was cultivated + by Mr. Miland, an agreeable Portuguese merchant. His garden was + interesting, as showing what the land at this elevation is capable of + yielding; for, besides wheat, we saw European vegetables in a flourishing + condition, and we afterward discovered that the coffee-plant has + propagated itself on certain spots of this same district. It may be seen + on the heights of Tala Mungongo, or nearly 300 miles from the west coast, + where it was first introduced by the Jesuit missionaries. + </p> + <p> + We spent Sunday, the 30th of April, at Ngio, close to the ford of the + Quize as it crosses our path to fall into the Coanza. The country becomes + more open, but is still abundantly fertile, with a thick crop of grass + between two and three feet high. It is also well wooded and watered. + Villages of Basongo are dotted over the landscape, and frequently a square + house of wattle and daub, belonging to native Portuguese, is placed beside + them for the purposes of trade. The people here possess both cattle and + pigs. The different sleeping-places on our path, from eight to ten miles + apart, are marked by a cluster of sheds made of sticks and grass. There is + a constant stream of people going and returning to and from the coast. The + goods are carried on the head, or on one shoulder, in a sort of basket + attached to the extremities of two poles between five and six feet long, + and called Motete. When the basket is placed on the head, the poles + project forward horizontally, and when the carrier wishes to rest himself, + he plants them on the ground and the burden against a tree, so he is not + obliged to lift it up from the ground to the level of the head. It stands + against the tree propped up by the poles at that level. The carrier + frequently plants the poles on the ground, and stands holding the burden + until he has taken breath, thus avoiding the trouble of placing the burden + on the ground and lifting it up again. + </p> + <p> + When a company of these carriers, or our own party, arrives at one of + these sleeping-places, immediate possession is taken of the sheds. Those + who come late, and find all occupied, must then erect others for + themselves; but this is not difficult, for there is no lack of long grass. + No sooner do any strangers appear at the spot, than the women may be seen + emerging from their villages bearing baskets of manioc-meal, roots, + ground-nuts, yams, bird's-eye pepper, and garlic for sale. Calico, of + which we had brought some from Cassange, is the chief medium of exchange. + We found them all civil, and it was evident, from the amount of talking + and laughing in bargaining, that the ladies enjoyed their occupation. They + must cultivate largely, in order to be able to supply the constant + succession of strangers. Those, however, near to the great line of road, + purchase also much of the food from the more distant villages for the sake + of gain. + </p> + <p> + Pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of fever, and it was no + wonder, for the dampness and evaporation from the ground was excessive. + When at any time I attempted to get an observation of a star, if the + trough of mercury were placed on the ground, so much moisture was + condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it that it was with + difficulty the reflection of the star could be seen. When the trough was + placed on a box to prevent the moisture entering from below, so much dew + was deposited on the outside of the roof that it was soon necessary, for + the sake of distinct vision, to wipe the glass. This would not have been + of great consequence, but a short exposure to this dew was so sure to + bring on a fresh fever, that I was obliged to give up observations by + night altogether. The inside of the only covering I now had was not much + better, but under the blanket one is not so liable to the chill which the + dew produces. + </p> + <p> + It would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a more intimate + acquaintance with the inhabitants of this part of the country, but the + vertigo produced by frequent fevers made it as much as I could do to stick + on the ox and crawl along in misery. In crossing the Lombe, my ox Sinbad, + in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out a new path for himself, + plunged overhead into a deep hole, and so soused me that I was obliged to + move on to dry my clothing, without calling on the Europeans who live on + the bank. This I regretted, for all the Portuguese were very kind, and, + like the Boers placed in similar circumstances, feel it a slight to be + passed without a word of salutation. But we went on to a spot where + orange-trees had been planted by the natives themselves, and where + abundance of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale. + </p> + <p> + On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the landscape enlivened by + the appearance of lofty mountains in the distance, the grass comparatively + short, and the whole country at this time looking gay and verdant. On our + left we saw certain rocks of the same nature with those of Pungo Andongo, + and which closely resemble the Stonehenge group on Salisbury Plain, only + the stone pillars here are of gigantic size. This region is all + wonderfully fertile, famed for raising cattle, and all kinds of + agricultural produce, at a cheap rate. The soil contains sufficient + ferruginous matter, to impart a red tinge to nearly the whole of it. It is + supplied with a great number of little flowing streams which unite in the + Lucalla. This river drains Ambaca, then falls into the Coanza to the + southwest at Massangano. We crossed the Lucalla by means of a large canoe + kept there by a man who farms the ferry from the government, and charges + about a penny per head. A few miles beyond the Lucalla we came to the + village of Ambaca, an important place in former times, but now a mere + paltry village, beautifully situated on a little elevation in a plain + surrounded on all hands by lofty mountains. It has a jail, and a good + house for the commandant, but neither fort nor church, though the ruins of + a place of worship are still standing. + </p> + <p> + We were most kindly received by the commandant of Ambaca, Arsenio de + Carpo, who spoke a little English. He recommended wine for my debility, + and here I took the first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa. I + felt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate on the weakening + effects of the fever. They were curious even to myself; for, though I had + tried several times since we left Ngio to take lunar observations, I could + not avoid confusion of time and distance, neither could I hold the + instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation; hence many of the + positions of this part of the route were left till my return from Loanda. + Often, on getting up in the mornings, I found my clothing as wet from + perspiration as if it had been dipped in water. In vain had I tried to + learn or collect words of the Bunda, or dialect spoken in Angola. I forgot + the days of the week and the names of my companions, and, had I been + asked, I probably could not have told my own. The complaint itself + occupied many of my thoughts. One day I supposed that I had got the true + theory of it, and would certainly cure the next attack, whether in myself + or companions; but some new symptoms would appear, and scatter all the + fine speculations which had sprung up, with extraordinary fertility, in + one department of my brain. + </p> + <p> + This district is said to contain upward of 40,000 souls. Some ten or + twelve miles to the north of the village of Ambaca there once stood the + missionary station of Cahenda, and it is now quite astonishing to observe + the great numbers who can read and write in this district. This is the + fruit of the labors of the Jesuit and Capuchin missionaries, for they + taught the people of Ambaca; and ever since the expulsion of the teachers + by the Marquis of Pombal, the natives have continued to teach each other. + These devoted men are still held in high estimation throughout the country + to this day. All speak well of them (os padres Jesuitas); and, now that + they are gone from this lower sphere, I could not help wishing that these + our Roman Catholic fellow-Christians had felt it to be their duty to give + the people the Bible, to be a light to their feet when the good men + themselves were gone. + </p> + <p> + When sleeping in the house of the commandant, an insect, well known in the + southern country by the name Tampan, bit my foot. It is a kind of tick, + and chooses by preference the parts between the fingers or toes for + inflicting its bite. It is seen from the size of a pin's head to that of a + pea, and is common in all the native huts in this country. It sucks the + blood until quite full, and is then of a dark blue color, and its skin so + tough and yielding that it is impossible to burst it by any amount of + squeezing with the fingers. I had felt the effects of its bite in former + years, and eschewed all native huts ever after; but as I was here again + assailed in a European house, I shall detail the effects of the bite. + These are a tingling sensation of mingled pain and itching, which + commences ascending the limb until the poison imbibed reaches the abdomen, + where it soon causes violent vomiting and purging. Where these effects do + not follow, as we found afterward at Tete, fever sets in; and I was + assured by intelligent Portuguese there that death has sometimes been the + result of this fever. The anxiety my friends at Tete manifested to keep my + men out of the reach of the tampans of the village made it evident that + they had seen cause to dread this insignificant insect. The only + inconvenience I afterward suffered from this bite was the continuance of + the tingling sensation in the point bitten for about a week. + </p> + <p> + MAY 12TH. As we were about to start this morning, the commandant, Senhor + Arsenio, provided bread and meat most bountifully for my use on the way to + the next station, and sent two militia soldiers as guides, instead of our + Cassange corporal, who left us here. About midday we asked for shelter + from the sun in the house of Senhor Mellot, at Zangu, and, though I was + unable to sit and engage in conversation, I found, on rising from his + couch, that he had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for my use; and at + parting he gave me a glass of wine, which prevented the violent fit of + shivering I expected that afternoon. The universal hospitality of the + Portuguese was most gratifying, as it was quite unexpected; and even now, + as I copy my journal, I remember it all with a glow of gratitude. + </p> + <p> + We spent Sunday, the 14th of May, at Cabinda, which is one of the stations + of the sub-commandants, who are placed at different points in each + district of Angola as assistants of the head-commandant, or chefe. It is + situated in a beautiful glen, and surrounded by plantations of bananas and + manioc. The country was gradually becoming more picturesque the farther we + proceeded west. The ranges of lofty blue mountains of Libollo, which, in + coming toward Ambaca, we had seen thirty or forty miles to our south, were + now shut from our view by others nearer at hand, and the gray ranges of + Cahenda and Kiwe, which, while we were in Ambaca, stood clearly defined + eight or ten miles off to the north, were now close upon our right. As we + looked back toward the open pastoral country of Ambaca, the broad green + gently undulating plains seemed in a hollow surrounded on all sides by + rugged mountains, and as we went westward we were entering upon quite a + wild-looking mountainous district, called Golungo Alto. + </p> + <p> + We met numbers of Mambari on their way back to Bihe. Some of them had + belonged to the parties which had penetrated as far as Linyanti, and + foolishly showed their displeasure at the prospect of the Makololo + preferring to go to the coast markets themselves to intrusting them with + their ivory. The Mambari repeated the tale of the mode in which the white + men are said to trade. "The ivory is left on the shore in the evening, and + next morning the seller finds a quantity of goods placed there in its + stead by the white men who live in the sea." "Now," added they to my men, + "how can you Makololo trade with these 'Mermen'? Can you enter into the + sea, and tell them to come ashore?" It was remarkable to hear this idea + repeated so near the sea as we now were. My men replied that they only + wanted to see for themselves; and, as they were now getting some light on + the nature of the trade carried on by the Mambari, they were highly amused + on perceiving the reasons why the Mambari would rather have met them on + the Zambesi than so near the sea-coast. + </p> + <p> + There is something so exhilarating to one of Highland blood in being near + or on high mountains, that I forgot my fever as we wended our way among + the lofty tree-covered masses of mica schist which form the highlands + around the romantic residence of the chefe of Golungo Alto. (Lat. 9d 8' + 30" S., long. 15d 2' E.) The whole district is extremely beautiful. The + hills are all bedecked with trees of various hues of foliage, and among + them towers the graceful palm, which yields the oil of commerce for making + our soaps, and the intoxicating toddy. Some clusters of hills look like + the waves of the sea driven into a narrow open bay, and have assumed the + same form as if, when all were chopping up perpendicularly, they had + suddenly been congealed. The cottages of the natives, perched on the tops + of many of the hillocks, looked as if the owners possessed an eye for the + romantic, but they were probably influenced more by the desire to overlook + their gardens, and keep their families out of the reach of the malaria, + which is supposed to prevail most on the banks of the numerous little + streams which run among the hills. + </p> + <p> + We were most kindly received by the commandant, Lieutenant Antonio Canto e + Castro, a young gentleman whose whole subsequent conduct will ever make me + regard him with great affection. Like every other person of intelligence + whom I had met, he lamented deeply the neglect with which this fine + country has been treated. This district contained by the last census + 26,000 hearths or fires; and if to each hearth we reckon four souls, we + have a population of 104,000. The number of carregadores (carriers) who + may be ordered out at the pleasure of government to convey merchandise to + the coast is in this district alone about 6000, yet there is no good road + in existence. This system of compulsory carriage of merchandise was + adopted in consequence of the increase in numbers and activity of our + cruisers, which took place in 1845. Each trader who went, previous to that + year, into the interior, in the pursuit of his calling, proceeded on the + plan of purchasing ivory and beeswax, and a sufficient number of slaves to + carry these commodities. The whole were intended for exportation as soon + as the trader reached the coast. But when the more stringent measures of + 1845 came into operation, and rendered the exportation of slaves almost + impossible, there being no roads proper for the employment of wheel + conveyances, this new system of compulsory carriage of ivory and beeswax + to the coast was resorted to by the government of Loanda. A trader who + requires two or three hundred carriers to convey his merchandise to the + coast now applies to the general government for aid. An order is sent to + the commandant of a district to furnish the number required. Each head man + of the villages to whom the order is transmitted must furnish from five to + twenty or thirty men, according to the proportion that his people bear to + the entire population of the district. For this accommodation the trader + must pay a tax to the government of 1000 reis, or about three shillings + per load carried. The trader is obliged to pay the carrier also the sum of + 50 reis, or about twopence a day, for his sustenance. And as a day's + journey is never more than from eight to ten miles, the expense which must + be incurred for this compulsory labor is felt to be heavy by those who + were accustomed to employ slave labor alone. Yet no effort has been made + to form a great line of road for wheel carriages. The first great want of + a country has not been attended to, and no development of its vast + resources has taken place. The fact, however, of a change from one system + of carriage to another, taken in connection with the great depreciation in + the price of slaves near this coast, proves the effectiveness of our + efforts at repressing the slave-trade on the ocean. + </p> + <p> + The latitude of Golungo Alto, as observed at the residence of the + commandant, was 9d 8' 30" S., longitude 15d 2' E. A few days' rest with + this excellent young man enabled me to regain much of my strength, and I + could look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his door. We were + quite shut in among green hills, many of which were cultivated up to their + tops with manioc, coffee, cotton, ground-nuts, bananas, pine-apples, + guavas, papaws, custard-apples, pitangas, and jambos, fruits brought from + South America by the former missionaries. The high hills all around, with + towering palms on many points, made this spot appear more like the Bay of + Rio de Janeiro in miniature than any scene I ever saw; and all who have + seen that confess it to be unequaled in the world beside. The fertility + evident in every spot of this district was quite marvelous to behold, but + I shall reserve further notices of this region till our return from + Loanda. + </p> + <p> + We left Golungo Alto on the 24th of May, the winter in these parts. Every + evening clouds come rolling in great masses over the mountains in the + west, and pealing thunder accompanies the fall of rain during the night or + early in the morning. The clouds generally remain on the hills till the + morning is well spent, so that we become familiar with morning mists, a + thing we never once saw at Kolobeng. The thermometer stands at 80 Degrees + by day, but sinks as low as 76 Degrees by night. + </p> + <p> + In going westward we crossed several fine little gushing streams which + never dry. They unite in the Luinha (pronounced Lueenya) and Lucalla. As + they flow over many little cascades, they might easily be turned to good + account, but they are all allowed to run on idly to the ocean. We passed + through forests of gigantic timber, and at an open space named Cambondo, + about eight miles from Golungo Alto, found numbers of carpenters + converting these lofty trees into planks, in exactly the same manner as + was followed by the illustrious Robinson Crusoe. A tree of three or four + feet in diameter, and forty or fifty feet up to the nearest branches, was + felled. It was then cut into lengths of a few feet, and split into thick + junks, which again were reduced to planks an inch thick by persevering + labor with the axe. The object of the carpenters was to make little + chests, and they drive a constant trade in them at Cambondo. When finished + with hinges, lock, and key, all of their own manufacture, one costs only a + shilling and eightpence. My men were so delighted with them that they + carried several of them on their heads all the way to Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + At Trombeta we were pleased to observe a great deal of taste displayed by + the sub-commandant in the laying out of his ground and adornment of his + house with flowers. This trifling incident was the more pleasing, as it + was the first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the + establishment of Mozinkwa in Londa. Rows of trees had been planted along + each side of the road, with pine-apples and flowers between. This + arrangement I had an opportunity of seeing in several other districts of + this country, for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree if + it is only kept from being choked by weeds. + </p> + <p> + This gentleman had now a fine estate, which but a few years ago was a + forest, and cost him only 16 Pounds. He had planted about 900 coffee-trees + upon it, and as these begin to yield in three years from being planted, + and in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that ere now his 16 + Pounds yields him sixty fold. All sorts of fruit-trees and grape-vines + yield their fruit twice in each year, without any labor or irrigation + being bestowed on them. All grains and vegetables, if only sown, do the + same; and if advantage is taken of the mists of winter, even three crops + of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the pods in his fields, + and he did not seem to care about it. I understood him to say that this + last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the two rainy seasons with + which this country is favored sometimes proves troublesome to the grower. + I am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried, but I saw both figs and + grapes bearing well. The great complaint of all cultivators is the want of + a good road to carry their produce to market. Here all kinds of food are + remarkably cheap. + </p> + <p> + Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we descended toward + the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more sterile, uninviting aspect. + On our right ran the River Senza, which nearer the sea takes the name of + Bengo. It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes. The low + plains adjacent to its banks are protected from inundation by embankments, + and the population is entirely occupied in raising food and fruits for + exportation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested by + myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Not one of our party + could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken into the house of a Portuguese, + but was soon glad to make my escape and lie across the path on the lee + side of the fire, where the smoke blew over my body. My host wondered at + my want of taste, and I at his want of feeling; for, to our astonishment, + he and the other inhabitants had actually become used to what was at least + equal to a nail through the heel of one's boot, or the tooth-ache. + </p> + <p> + As we were now drawing near to the sea, my companions were looking at + every thing in a serious light. One of them asked me if we should all have + an opportunity of watching each other at Loanda. "Suppose one went for + water, would the others see if he were kidnapped?" I replied, "I see what + you are driving at; and if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as + ignorant of Loanda as you are; but nothing will happen to you but what + happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and will do so to + the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are somewhat elevated and + comparatively sterile. On coming across these we first beheld the sea: my + companions looked upon the boundless ocean with awe. On describing their + feelings afterward, they remarked that "we marched along with our father, + believing that what the ancients had always told us was true, that the + world has no end; but all at once the world said to us, 'I am finished; + there is no more of me!'" They had always imagined that the world was one + extended plain without limit. + </p> + <p> + They were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering want, and I was unable to + allay their fears with any promise of supply, for my own mind was + depressed by disease and care. The fever had induced a state of chronic + dysentery, so troublesome that I could not remain on the ox more than ten + minutes at a time; and as we came down the declivity above the city of + Loanda on the 31st of May, I was laboring under great depression of + spirits, as I understood that, in a population of twelve thousand souls, + there was but one genuine English gentleman. I naturally felt anxious to + know whether he were possessed of good-nature, or was one of those crusty + mortals one would rather not meet at all. + </p> + <p> + This gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, our commissioner for the suppression of the + slave-trade, had kindly forwarded an invitation to meet me on the way from + Cassange, but, unfortunately, it crossed me on the road. When we entered + his porch, I was delighted to see a number of flowers cultivated + carefully, and inferred from this circumstance that he was, what I soon + discovered him to be, a real whole-hearted Englishman. + </p> + <p> + Seeing me ill, he benevolently offered me his bed. Never shall I forget + the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English + couch, after six months' sleeping on the ground. I was soon asleep; and + Mr. Gabriel, coming in almost immediately, rejoiced at the soundness of my + repose. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 20. + </h2> + <p> + Continued Sickness—Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her + Majesty's Officers—Mr. Gabriel's unwearied Hospitality—Serious + Deportment of the Makololo—They visit Ships of War—Politeness + of the Officers and Men—The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral—Their + Remarks—Find Employment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal—Their + superior Judgment respecting Goods—Beneficial Influence of the + Bishop of Angola—The City of St. Paul de Loanda—The Harbor—Custom-house—No + English Merchants—Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in + suppressing the Slave-trade—Convict Soldiers—Presents from + Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu—Outfit—Leave Loanda 20th + September, 1854—Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far as Icollo i Bengo—Sugar + Manufactory—Geology of this part of the Country—Women spinning + Cotton—Its Price—Native Weavers—Market-places—Cazengo; + its Coffee Plantations—South American Trees—Ruins of Iron + Foundry—Native Miners—The Banks of the Lucalla— Cottages + with Stages—Tobacco-plants—Town of Massangano—Sugar and + Rice—Superior District for Cotton—Portuguese Merchants and + foreign Enterprise—Ruins—The Fort and its ancient Guns—Former + Importance of Massangano—Fires—The Tribe Kisama—Peculiar + Variety of Domestic Fowl—Coffee Plantations—Return to Golungo + Alto—Self-complacency of the Makololo—Fever—Jaundice—Insanity. + </p> + <p> + In the hope that a short enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's generous hospitality + would restore me to my wonted vigor, I continued under his roof; but my + complaint having been caused by long exposure to malarious influences, I + became much more reduced than ever, even while enjoying rest. Several + Portuguese gentlemen called on me shortly after my arrival; and the Bishop + of Angola, the Right Reverend Joaquim Moreira Reis, then the acting + governor of the province, sent his secretary to do the same, and likewise + to offer the services of the government physician. + </p> + <p> + Some of her majesty's cruisers soon came into the port, and, seeing the + emaciated condition to which I was reduced, offered to convey me to St. + Helena or homeward; but, though I had reached the coast, I had found that, + in consequence of the great amount of forest, rivers, and marsh, there was + no possibility of a highway for wagons, and I had brought a party of + Sekeletu's people with me, and found the tribes near the Portuguese + settlement so very unfriendly, that it would be altogether impossible for + my men to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline the tempting + offers of my naval friends, and take back my Makololo companions to their + chief, with a view of trying to make a path from his country to the east + coast by means of the great river Zambesi or Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + I, however, gladly availed myself of the medical assistance of Mr. Cockin, + the surgeon of the "Polyphemus", at the suggestion of his commander, + Captain Phillips. Mr. Cockin's treatment, aided by the exhilarating + presence of the warm-hearted naval officers, and Mr. Gabriel's unwearied + hospitality and care, soon brought me round again. On the 14th I was so + far well as to call on the bishop, in company with my party, who were + arrayed in new robes of striped cotton cloth and red caps, all presented + to them by Mr. Gabriel. He received us, as head of the provisional + government, in the grand hall of the palace. He put many intelligent + questions respecting the Makololo, and then gave them free permission to + come to Loanda as often as they pleased. This interview pleased the + Makololo extremely. + </p> + <p> + Every one remarked the serious deportment of the Makololo. They viewed the + large stone houses and churches in the vicinity of the great ocean with + awe. A house with two stories was, until now, beyond their comprehension. + In explanation of this strange thing, I had always been obliged to use the + word for hut; and as huts are constructed by the poles being let into the + earth, they never could comprehend how the poles of one hut could be + founded upon the roof of another, or how men could live in the upper + story, with the conical roof of the lower one in the middle. Some + Makololo, who had visited my little house at Kolobeng, in trying to + describe it to their countrymen at Linyanti, said, "It is not a hut; it is + a mountain with several caves in it." + </p> + <p> + Commander Bedingfeld and Captain Skene invited them to visit their + vessels, the "Pluto" and "Philomel". Knowing their fears, I told them that + no one need go if he entertained the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly + the whole party went; and when on deck, I pointed to the sailors, and + said, "Now these are all my countrymen, sent by our queen for the purpose + of putting down the trade of those that buy and sell black men." They + replied, "Truly! they are just like you!" and all their fears seemed to + vanish at once, for they went forward among the men, and the jolly tars, + acting much as the Makololo would have done in similar circumstances, + handed them a share of the bread and beef which they had for dinner. The + commander allowed them to fire off a cannon; and, having the most exalted + ideas of its power, they were greatly pleased when I told them, "That is + what they put down the slave-trade with." The size of the brig-of-war + amazed them. "It is not a canoe at all; it is a town!" The sailors' deck + they named "the Kotla"; and then, as a climax to their description of this + great ark, added, "And what sort of a town is it that you must climb up + into with a rope?" + </p> + <p> + The effect of the politeness of the officers and men on their minds was + most beneficial. They had behaved with the greatest kindness to me all the + way from Linyanti, and I now rose rapidly in their estimation; for, + whatever they may have surmised before, they now saw that I was respected + among my own countrymen, and always afterward treated me with the greatest + deference. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th there was a procession and service of the mass in the + Cathedral; and, wishing to show my men a place of worship, I took them to + the church, which now serves as the chief one of the see of Angola and + Congo. There is an impression on some minds that a gorgeous ritual is + better calculated to inspire devotional feelings than the simple forms of + the Protestant worship. But here the frequent genuflexions, changing of + positions, burning of incense, with the priests' back turned to the + people, the laughing, talking, and manifest irreverence of the singers, + with firing of guns, etc., did not convey to the minds of my men the idea + of adoration. I overheard them, in talking to each other, remark that + "they had seen the white men charming their demons;" a phrase identical + with one they had used when seeing the Balonda beating drums before their + idols. + </p> + <p> + In the beginning of August I suffered a severe relapse, which reduced me + to a mere skeleton. I was then unable to attend to my men for a + considerable time; but when in convalescence from this last attack, I was + thankful to find that I was free from that lassitude which, in my first + recovery, showed the continuance of the malaria in the system. I found + that my men, without prompting, had established a brisk trade in + fire-wood. They sallied forth at cock-crowing in the mornings, and by + daylight reached the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country, collected + a bundle of fire-wood, and returned to the city. It was then divided into + smaller fagots, and sold to the inhabitants; and as they gave larger + quantities than the regular wood-carriers, they found no difficulty in + selling. A ship freighted with coal for the cruisers having arrived from + England, Mr. Gabriel procured them employment in unloading her at sixpence + a day. They continued at this work for upward of a month, and nothing + could exceed their astonishment at the vast amount of cargo one ship + contained. As they themselves always afterward expressed it, they had + labored every day from sunrise to sunset for a moon and a half, unloading, + as quickly as they could, "stones that burn", and were tired out, still + leaving plenty in her. With the money so obtained they purchased clothing, + beads, and other articles to take back to their own country. Their ideas + of the value of different kinds of goods rather astonished those who had + dealt only with natives on the coast. Hearing it stated with confidence + that the Africans preferred the thinnest fabrics, provided they had gaudy + colors and a large extent of surface, the idea was so new to my experience + in the interior that I dissented, and, in order to show the superior good + sense of the Makololo, took them to the shop of Mr. Schut. When he showed + them the amount of general goods which they might procure at Loanda for a + single tusk, I requested them, without assigning any reason, to point out + the fabrics they prized most. They all at once selected the strongest + pieces of English calico and other cloths, showing that they had regard to + strength without reference to color. I believe that most of the Bechuana + nation would have done the same. But I was assured that the people near + the coast, with whom the Portuguese have to deal, have not so much regard + to durability. This probably arises from calico being the chief + circulating medium; quantity being then of more importance than quality. + </p> + <p> + During the period of my indisposition, the bishop sent frequently to make + inquiries, and, as soon as I was able to walk, I went to thank him for his + civilities. His whole conversation and conduct showed him to be a man of + great benevolence and kindness of heart. Alluding to my being a + Protestant, he stated that he was a Catholic from conviction; and though + sorry to see others, like myself, following another path, he entertained + no uncharitable feelings, nor would he ever sanction persecuting measures. + He compared the various sects of Christians, in their way to heaven, to a + number of individuals choosing to pass down the different streets of + Loanda to one of the churches—all would arrive at the same point at + last. His good influence, both in the city and the country, is universally + acknowledged: he was promoting the establishment of schools, which, though + formed more on the monastic principle than Protestants might approve, will + no doubt be a blessing. He was likewise successfully attempting to abolish + the non-marriage custom of the country; and several marriages had taken + place in Loanda among those who, but for his teaching, would have been + content with concubinage. + </p> + <p> + St. Paul de Loanda has been a very considerable city, but is now in a + state of decay. It contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, most of + whom are people of color.* There are various evidences of its former + magnificence, especially two cathedrals, one of which, once a Jesuit + college, is now converted into a workshop; and in passing the other, we + saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding within its stately walls. Three + forts continue in a good state of repair. Many large stone houses are to + be found. The palace of the governor and government offices are commodious + structures, but nearly all the houses of the native inhabitants are of + wattle and daub. Trees are planted all over the town for the sake of + shade, and the city presents an imposing appearance from the sea. It is + provided with an effective police, and the custom-house department is + extremely well managed. All parties agree in representing the Portuguese + authorities as both polite and obliging; and if ever any inconvenience is + felt by strangers visiting the port, it must be considered the fault of + the system, and not of the men. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * From the census of 1850-51 we find the population of this + city arranged thus: 830 whites, only 160 of whom are females. + This is the largest collection of whites in the country, for + Angola itself contains only about 1000 whites. There are 2400 + half-castes in Loanda, and only 120 of them slaves; and there + are 9000 blacks, more than 5000 of whom are slaves. +</pre> + <p> + The harbor is formed by the low, sandy island of Loanda, which is + inhabited by about 1300 souls, upward of 600 of whom are industrious + native fishermen, who supply the city with abundance of good fish daily. + The space between it and the main land, on which the city is built, is the + station for ships. When a high southwest wind blows, the waves of the + ocean dash over part of the island, and, driving large quantities of sand + before them, gradually fill up the harbor. Great quantities of soil are + also washed in the rainy season from the heights above the city, so that + the port, which once contained water sufficient to float the largest ships + close to the custom-house, is now at low water dry. The ships are + compelled to anchor about a mile north of their old station. Nearly all + the water consumed in Loanda is brought from the River Bengo by means of + launches, the only supply that the city affords being from some deep wells + of slightly brackish water. Unsuccessful attempts have been made by + different governors to finish a canal, which the Dutch, while in + possession of Loanda during the seven years preceding 1648, had begun, to + bring water from the River Coanza to the city. There is not a single + English merchant at Loanda, and only two American. This is the more + remarkable, as nearly all the commerce is carried on by means of English + calico brought hither via Lisbon. Several English houses attempted to + establish a trade about 1845, and accepted bills on Rio de Janeiro in + payment for their goods, but the increased activity of our cruisers had + such an effect upon the mercantile houses of that city that most of them + failed. The English merchants lost all, and Loanda got a bad name in the + commercial world in consequence. + </p> + <p> + One of the arrangements of the custom-house may have had some influence in + preventing English trade. Ships coming here must be consigned to some one + on the spot; the consignee receives one hundred dollars per mast, and he + generally makes a great deal more for himself by putting a percentage on + boats and men hired for loading and unloading, and on every item that + passes through his hands. The port charges are also rendered heavy by + twenty dollars being charged as a perquisite of the secretary of + government, with a fee for the chief physician, something for the + hospital, custom-house officers, guards, etc., etc. But, with all these + drawbacks, the Americans carry on a brisk and profitable trade in calico, + biscuit, flour, butter, etc., etc. + </p> + <p> + The Portuguese home government has not generally received the credit for + sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade which I conceive to be its due. + In 1839, my friend Mr. Gabriel saw 37 slave-ships lying in this harbor, + waiting for their cargoes, under the protection of the guns of the forts. + At that time slavers had to wait many months at a time for a human + freight, and a certain sum per head was paid to the government for all + that were exported. The duties derived from the exportation of slaves far + exceeded those from other commerce, and, by agreeing to the suppression of + this profitable traffic, the government actually sacrificed the chief part + of the export revenue. Since that period, however, the revenue from lawful + commerce has very much exceeded that on slaves. The intentions of the home + Portuguese government, however good, can not be fully carried out under + the present system. The pay of the officers is so very small that they are + nearly all obliged to engage in trade; and, owing to the lucrative nature + of the slave-trade, the temptation to engage in it is so powerful, that + the philanthropic statesmen of Lisbon need hardly expect to have their + humane and enlightened views carried out. The law, for instance, lately + promulgated for the abolition of the carrier system (carregadores) is but + one of several equally humane enactments against this mode of compulsory + labor, but there is very little probability of the benevolent intentions + of the Legislature being carried into effect. + </p> + <p> + Loanda is regarded somewhat as a penal settlement, and those who leave + their native land for this country do so with the hope of getting rich in + a few years, and then returning home. They have thus no motive for seeking + the permanent welfare of the country. The Portuguese law preventing the + subjects of any other nation from holding landed property unless they + become naturalized, the country has neither the advantage of native nor + foreign enterprise, and remains very much in the same state as our allies + found it in 1575. Nearly all the European soldiers sent out are convicts, + and, contrary to what might be expected from men in their position, behave + remarkably well. A few riots have occurred, but nothing at all so serious + as have taken place in our own penal settlements. It is a remarkable fact + that the whole of the arms of Loanda are every night in the hands of those + who have been convicts. Various reasons for this mild behavior are + assigned by the officers, but none of these, when viewed in connection + with our own experience in Australia, appear to be valid. Religion seems + to have no connection with the change. Perhaps the climate may have some + influence in subduing their turbulent disposition, for the inhabitants + generally are a timid race; they are not half so brave as our Caffres. The + people of Ambriz ran away like a flock of sheep, and allowed the + Portuguese to take possession of their copper mines and country without + striking a blow. If we must have convict settlements, attention to the + climate might be of advantage in the selection. Here even bulls are much + tamer than with us. I never met with a ferocious one in this country, and + the Portuguese use them generally for riding; an ox is seldom seen. + </p> + <p> + The objects which I had in view in opening up the country, as stated in a + few notes of my journey, published in the newspapers of Angola, so + commended themselves to the general government and merchants of Loanda, + that, at the instance of his excellency the bishop, a handsome present for + Sekeletu was granted by the Board of Public Works (Junta da Fazenda + Publica). It consisted of a colonel's complete uniform and a horse for the + chief, and suits of clothing for all the men who accompanied me. The + merchants also made a present, by public subscription, of handsome + specimens of all their articles of trade, and two donkeys, for the purpose + of introducing the breed into his country, as tsetse can not kill this + beast of burden. These presents were accompanied by letters from the + bishop and merchants; and I was kindly favored with letters of + recommendation to the Portuguese authorities in Eastern Africa. + </p> + <p> + I took with me a good stock of cotton cloth, fresh supplies of ammunition + and beads, and gave each of my men a musket. As my companions had amassed + considerable quantities of goods, they were unable to carry mine, but the + bishop furnished me with twenty carriers, and sent forward orders to all + the commandants of the districts through which we were to pass to render + me every assistance in their power. Being now supplied with a good new + tent made by my friends on board the Philomel, we left Loanda on the 20th + of September, 1854, and passed round by sea to the mouth of the River + Bengo. Ascending this river, we went through the district in which stand + the ruins of the convent of St. Antonio; thence into Icollo i Bengo, which + contains a population of 6530 blacks, 172 mulattoes, and 11 whites, and is + so named from having been the residence of a former native king. The + proportion of slaves is only 3.38 per cent. of the inhabitants. The + commandant of this place, Laurence Jose Marquis, is a frank old soldier + and a most hospitable man; he is one of the few who secure the universal + approbation of their fellow-men for stern, unflinching honesty, and has + risen from the ranks to be a major in the army. We were accompanied thus + far by our generous host, Edmund Gabriel, Esq., who, by his unwearied + attentions to myself, and liberality in supporting my men, had become + endeared to all our hearts. My men were strongly impressed with a sense of + his goodness, and often spoke of him in terms of admiration all the way to + Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + While here we visited a large sugar manufactory belonging to a lady, Donna + Anna da Sousa. The flat alluvial lands on the banks of the Senza or Bengo + are well adapted for raising sugar-cane, and this lady had a surprising + number of slaves, but somehow the establishment was far from being in a + flourishing condition. It presented such a contrast to the free-labor + establishments of the Mauritius, which I have since seen, where, with not + one tenth of the number of hands, or such good soil, a man of color had, + in one year, cleared 5000 Pounds by a single crop, that I quote the fact, + in hopes it may meet the eye of Donna Anna. + </p> + <p> + The water of the river is muddy, and it is observed that such rivers have + many more mosquitoes than those which have clear water. It was remarked to + us here that these insects are much more numerous at the period of new + moon than at other times; at any rate, we were all thankful to get away + from the Senza and its insect plagues. + </p> + <p> + The whole of this part of the country is composed of marly tufa, + containing the same kind of shells as those at present alive in the seas. + As we advanced eastward and ascended the higher lands, we found eruptive + trap, which had tilted up immense masses of mica and sandstone schists. + The mica schist almost always dipped toward the interior of the country, + forming those mountain ranges of which we have already spoken as giving a + highland character to the district of Golungo Alto. The trap has + frequently run through the gorges made in the upheaved rocks, and at the + points of junction between the igneous and older rocks there are large + quantities of strongly magnetic iron ore. The clayey soil formed by the + disintegration of the mica schist and trap is the favorite soil for the + coffee; and it is on these mountain sides, and others possessing a similar + red clay soil, that this plant has propagated itself so widely. The + meadow-lands adjacent to the Senza and Coanza being underlaid by that + marly tufa which abounds toward the coast, and containing the same shells, + show that, previous to the elevation of that side of the country, this + region possessed some deeply-indented bays. + </p> + <p> + 28TH SEPTEMBER, KALUNGWEMBO.—We were still on the same path by which + we had come, and, there being no mosquitoes, we could now better enjoy the + scenery. Ranges of hills occupy both sides of our path, and the fine level + road is adorned with a beautiful red flower named Bolcamaria. The markets + or sleeping-places are well supplied with provisions by great numbers of + women, every one of whom is seen spinning cotton with a spindle and + distaff, exactly like those which were in use among the ancient Egyptians. + A woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fields, though with a pot on + her head, a child on her back, and the hoe over her shoulder, but she is + employed in this way. The cotton was brought to the market for sale, and I + bought a pound for a penny. This was the price demanded, and probably + double what they ask from each other. We saw the cotton growing + luxuriantly all around the market-places from seeds dropped accidentally. + It is seen also about the native huts, and, so far as I could learn, it + was the American cotton, so influenced by climate as to be perennial. We + met in the road natives passing with bundles of cops, or spindles full of + cotton thread, and these they were carrying to other parts to be woven + into cloth. The women are the spinners, and the men perform the weaving. + Each web is about 5 feet long, and 15 or 18 inches wide. The loom is of + the simplest construction, being nothing but two beams placed one over the + other, the web standing perpendicularly. The threads of the web are + separated by means of a thin wooden lath, and the woof passed through by + means of the spindle on which it has been wound in spinning. + </p> + <p> + The mode of spinning and weaving in Angola, and, indeed, throughout South + Central Africa, is so very like the same occupations in the hands of the + ancient Egyptians, that I introduce a woodcut from the interesting work of + Sir Gardner Wilkinson. The lower figures are engaged in spinning in the + real African method, and the weavers in the left-hand corner have their + web in the Angolese fashion.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately, this woodcut can not be represented in this + ASCII text. The caption reads, 'Ancient Spinning and Weaving, + perpetuated in Africa at the present day. From Wilkinson's + "Ancient Egyptians", p. 85, 86.' The web, or cloth on the + loom, mentioned, has the vertical threads, or the warp, + hanging, perhaps five feet, from a horizontal beam. The woof + is passed through from side to side.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + Numbers of other articles are brought for sale to these sleeping-places. + The native smiths there carry on their trade. I bought ten very good + table-knives, made of country iron, for twopence each. + </p> + <p> + Labor is extremely cheap, for I was assured that even carpenters, masons, + smiths, etc., might be hired for fourpence a day, and agriculturists would + gladly work for half that sum.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * In order that the reader may understand the social position + of the people of this country, I here give the census of the + district of Golungo Alto for the year 1854, though the numbers + are evidently not all furnished: + + 238 householders or yeomen. + 4224 patrons, or head men of several hamlets. + 23 native chiefs or sovas. + 292 macotas or councilors. + 5838 carriers. + 126 carpenters. + 72 masons. + 300 shoemakers. + 181 potters. + 25 tailors. + 12 barbers. + 206 iron-founders. + 486 bellows-blowers. + 586 coke-makers. + 173 iron-miners. + 184 soldiers of militia. + 3603 privileged gentlemen, i.e., who may wear boots. + 18 vagabonds. + 717 old men. + 54 blind men and women. + 81 lame men and women. + 770 slave men. + 807 slave women. + 9578 free women. + 393 possessors of land. + 300 female gardeners. + 139 hunters of wild animals. + 980 smiths. + 314 mat-makers. + 4065 males under 7 years of age. + 6012 females under 7 years of age. +</pre> + <p> + These people possess 300 idol-houses, 600 sheep, 5000 goats, 500 oxen, 398 + gardens, 25,120 hearths. The authorities find great difficulty in getting + the people to furnish a correct account of their numbers. This census is + quoted merely for the purpose of giving a general idea of the employments + of the inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + The following is taken from the census of Icollo i Bengo, and is added for + a similar reason: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 3232 living without the marriage tie. (All those who have + not been married by a priest are so distinguished.) + 4 orphans—2 black and 2 white. + 9 native chiefs. + 2 carpenters. + 21 potters. + 11 tailors. + 2 shoemakers. + 3 barbers. + 5 mat-makers. + 12 sack-makers. + 21 basket-makers. + + The cattle in the district are: 10 asses, 401 oxen, 492 cows, + 3933 sheep, 1699 goats, 909 swine; and as an annual tax is + levied of sixpence per head on all stock, it is probable that + the returns are less than the reality. +</pre> + <p> + Being anxious to obtain some more knowledge of this interesting country + and its ancient missionary establishments than the line of route by which + we had come afforded, I resolved to visit the town of Massangano, which is + situated to the south of Golungo Alto, and at the confluence of the rivers + Lucalla and Coanza. This led me to pass through the district of Cazengo, + which is rather famous for the abundance and excellence of its coffee. + Extensive coffee plantations were found to exist on the sides of the + several lofty mountains that compose this district. They were not planted + by the Portuguese. The Jesuit and other missionaries are known to have + brought some of the fine old Mocha seed, and these have propagated + themselves far and wide; hence the excellence of the Angola coffee. Some + have asserted that, as new plantations were constantly discovered even + during the period of our visit, the coffee-tree was indigenous; but the + fact that pine-apples, bananas, yams, orange-trees, custard apple-trees, + pitangas, guavas, and other South American trees, were found by me in the + same localities with the recently-discovered coffee, would seem to + indicate that all foreign trees must have been introduced by the same + agency. It is known that the Jesuits also introduced many other trees for + the sake of their timber alone. Numbers of these have spread over the + country, some have probably died out, and others failed to spread, like a + lonely specimen which stands in what was the Botanic Garden of Loanda, + and, though most useful in yielding a substitute for frankincense, is the + only one of the kind in Africa. + </p> + <p> + A circumstance which would facilitate the extensive propagation of the + coffee on the proper clay soil is this: The seed, when buried beneath the + soil, generally dies, while that which is sown broadcast, with no covering + except the shade of the trees, vegetates readily. The agent in sowing in + this case is a bird, which eats the outer rind, and throws the kernel on + the ground. This plant can not bear the direct rays of the sun; + consequently, when a number of the trees are discovered in the forest, all + that is necessary is to clear away the brushwood, and leave as many of the + tall forest-trees as will afford good shade to the coffee-plants below. + The fortunate discoverer has then a flourishing coffee plantation. + </p> + <p> + This district, small though it be, having only a population of 13,822, of + whom ten only are white, nevertheless yields an annual tribute to the + government of thirteen hundred cotton cloths, each 5 feet by 18 or 20 + inches, of their own growth and manufacture. + </p> + <p> + Accompanied by the commandant of Cazengo, who was well acquainted with + this part of the country, I proceeded in a canoe down the River Lucalla to + Massangano. This river is about 85 yards wide, and navigable for canoes + from its confluence with the Coanza to about six miles above the point + where it receives the Luinha. Near this latter point stand the strong, + massive ruins of an iron foundry, erected in the times (1768) and by the + order of the famous Marquis of Pombal. The whole of the buildings were + constructed of stone, cemented with oil and lime. The dam for water-power + was made of the same materials, and 27 feet high. This had been broken + through by a flood, and solid blocks, many yards in length, were carried + down the stream, affording an instructive example of the transporting + power of water. There was nothing in the appearance of the place to + indicate unhealthiness; but eight Spanish and Swedish workmen, being + brought hither for the purpose of instructing the natives in the art of + smelting iron, soon fell victims to disease and "irregularities". The + effort of the marquis to improve the mode of manufacturing iron was thus + rendered abortive. Labor and subsistence are, however, so very cheap that + almost any amount of work can be executed, at a cost that renders + expensive establishments unnecessary. + </p> + <p> + A party of native miners and smiths is still kept in the employment of the + government, who, working the rich black magnetic iron ore, produce for the + government from 480 to 500 bars of good malleable iron every month. They + are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of a small + fresh-water fish, called "Cacusu", a portion of the tax levied upon the + fishermen of the Coanza. This fish is so much relished in the country that + those who do not wish to eat them can easily convert them into money. The + commandant of the district of Massangano, for instance, has a right to a + dish of three hundred every morning, as part of his salary. Shell-fish are + also found in the Coanza, and the "Peixemulher", or woman-fish of the + Portuguese, which is probably a Manatee. + </p> + <p> + The banks of the Lucalla are very pretty, well planted with orange-trees, + bananas, and the palm ('Elaeis Guineensis') which yields the oil of + commerce. Large plantations of maize, manioc, and tobacco are seen along + both banks, which are enlivened by the frequent appearance of native + houses imbosomed in dense shady groves, with little boys and girls playing + about them. The banks are steep, the water having cut out its bed in dark + red alluvial soil. Before every cottage a small stage is erected, to which + the inhabitants may descend to draw water without danger from the + alligators. Some have a little palisade made in the water for safety from + these reptiles, and others use the shell of the fruit of the baobab-tree + attached to a pole about ten feet long, with which, while standing on the + high bank, they may draw water without fear of accident. + </p> + <p> + Many climbing plants run up the lofty silk, cotton, and baobab trees, and + hang their beautiful flowers in gay festoons on the branches. As we + approach Massangano, the land on both banks of the Lucalla becomes very + level, and large portions are left marshy after the annual floods; but all + is very fertile. As an illustration of the strength of the soil, I may + state that we saw tobacco-plants in gardens near the confluence eight feet + high, and each plant had thirty-six leaves, which were eighteen inches + long by six or eight inches broad. But it is not a pastoral district. In + our descent we observed the tsetse, and consequently the people had no + domestic animals save goats. + </p> + <p> + We found the town of Massangano on a tongue of rather high land, formed by + the left bank of the Lucalla and right bank of the Coanza, and received + true Portuguese hospitality from Senhor Lubata. The town has more than a + thousand inhabitants; the district has 28,063, with only 315 slaves. It + stands on a mound of calcareous tufa, containing great numbers of fossil + shells, the most recent of which resemble those found in the marly tufa + close to the coast. The fort stands on the south side of the town, on a + high perpendicular bank overhanging the Coanza. This river is here a noble + stream, about a hundred and fifty yards wide, admitting navigation in + large canoes from the bar at its mouth to Cambambe, some thirty miles + above this town. There, a fine waterfall hinders farther ascent. Ten or + twelve large canoes laden with country produce pass Massangano every day. + Four galleons were constructed here as long ago as 1650, which must have + been of good size, for they crossed the ocean to Rio Janeiro. + </p> + <p> + Massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice, while Cambambe is + a very superior field for cotton; but the bar at the mouth of the Coanza + would prevent the approach of a steamer into this desirable region, though + a small one could ply on it with ease when once in. It is probable that + the objects of those who attempted to make a canal from Calumbo to Loanda + were not merely to supply that city with fresh water, but to afford + facilities for transportation. The remains of the canal show it to have + been made on a scale suited for the Coanza canoes. The Portuguese began + another on a smaller scale in 1811, and, after three years' labor, had + finished only 6000 yards. Nothing great or useful will ever be effected + here so long as men come merely to get rich, and then return to Portugal. + </p> + <p> + The latitude of the town and fort of Massangano is 9d 37' 46" S., being + nearly the same as that of Cassange. The country between Loanda and this + point being comparatively flat, a railroad might be constructed at small + expense. The level country is prolonged along the north bank of the Coanza + to the edge of the Cassange basin, and a railway carried thither would be + convenient for the transport of the products of the rich districts of + Cassange, Pungo Andongo, Ambaca, Cambambe, Golungo Alto, Cazengo, Muchima, + and Calumbo; in a word, the whole of Angola and independent tribes + adjacent to this kingdom. + </p> + <p> + The Portuguese merchants generally look to foreign enterprise and to their + own government for the means by which this amelioration might be effected; + but, as I always stated to them when conversing on the subject, foreign + capitalists would never run the risk, unless they saw the Angolese doing + something for themselves, and the laws so altered that the subjects of + other nations should enjoy the same privileges in the country with + themselves. The government of Portugal has indeed shown a wise and liberal + policy by its permission for the alienation of the crown lands in Angola; + but the law giving it effect is so fenced round with limitations, and so + deluged with verbiage, that to plain people it seems any thing but a + straightforward license to foreigners to become 'bona fide' landholders + and cultivators of the soil. At present the tolls paid on the different + lines of roads for ferries and bridges are equal to the interest of large + sums of money, though but a small amount has been expended in making + available roads. + </p> + <p> + There are two churches and a hospital in ruins at Massangano; and the + remains of two convents are pointed out, one of which is said to have been + an establishment of black Benedictines, which, if successful, considering + the materials the brethren had to work on, must have been a laborious + undertaking. There is neither priest nor schoolmaster in the town, but I + was pleased to observe a number of children taught by one of the + inhabitants. The cultivated lands attached to all these conventual + establishments in Angola are now rented by the government of Loanda, and + thither the bishop lately removed all the gold and silver vessels + belonging to them. + </p> + <p> + The fort of Massangano is small, but in good repair; it contains some very + ancient guns, which were loaded from the breech, and must have been + formidable weapons in their time. The natives of this country entertain a + remarkable dread of great guns, and this tends much to the permanence of + the Portuguese authority. They dread a cannon greatly, though the carriage + be so rotten that it would fall to pieces at the first shot; the fort of + Pungo Andongo is kept securely by cannon perched on cross sticks alone! + </p> + <p> + Massangano was a very important town at the time the Dutch held forcible + possession of Loanda and part of Angola; but when, in the year 1648, the + Dutch were expelled from this country by a small body of Portuguese, under + the Governor Salvador Correa de Sa Benevides, Massangano was left to sink + into its present decay. Since it was partially abandoned by the + Portuguese, several baobab-trees have sprung up and attained a diameter of + eighteen or twenty inches, and are about twenty feet high. No certain + conclusion can be drawn from these instances, as it is not known at what + time after 1648 they began to grow; but their present size shows that + their growth is not unusually slow. + </p> + <p> + Several fires occurred during our stay, by the thatch having, through long + exposure to a torrid sun, become like tinder. The roofs became ignited + without any visible cause except the intense solar rays, and excited + terror in the minds of the inhabitants, as the slightest spark carried by + the wind would have set the whole town in a blaze. There is not a single + inscription on stone visible in Massangano. If destroyed to-morrow, no one + could tell where it and most Portuguese interior villages stood, any more + than we can do those of the Balonda. + </p> + <p> + During the occupation of this town the Coanza was used for the purpose of + navigation, but their vessels were so frequently plundered by their Dutch + neighbors that, when they regained the good port of Loanda, they no longer + made use of the river. We remained here four days, in hopes of obtaining + an observation for the longitude, but at this season of the year the sky + is almost constantly overcast by a thick canopy of clouds of a + milk-and-water hue; this continues until the rainy season (which was now + close at hand) commences. + </p> + <p> + The lands on the north side of the Coanza belong to the Quisamas + (Kisamas), an independent tribe, which the Portuguese have not been able + to subdue. The few who came under my observation possessed much of the + Bushman or Hottentot feature, and were dressed in strips of soft bark + hanging from the waist to the knee. They deal largely in salt, which their + country produces in great abundance. It is brought in crystals of about 12 + inches long and 1-1/2 in diameter. This is hawked about every where in + Angola, and, next to calico, is the most common medium of barter. The + Kisama are brave; and when the Portuguese army followed them into their + forests, they reduced the invaders to extremity by tapping all the + reservoirs of water, which were no other than the enormous baobabs of the + country hollowed into cisterns. As the Kisama country is ill supplied with + water otherwise, the Portuguese were soon obliged to retreat. Their + country, lying near to Massangano, is low and marshy, but becomes more + elevated in the distance, and beyond them lie the lofty dark mountain + ranges of the Libollo, another powerful and independent people. Near + Massangano I observed what seemed to be an effort of nature to furnish a + variety of domestic fowls, more capable than the common kind of bearing + the heat of the sun. This was a hen and chickens with all their feathers + curled upward, thus giving shade to the body without increasing the heat. + They are here named "Kisafu" by the native population, who pay a high + price for them when they wish to offer them as a sacrifice, and by the + Portuguese they are termed "Arripiada", or shivering. There seems to be a + tendency in nature to afford varieties adapted to the convenience of man. + A kind of very short-legged fowl among the Boers was obtained, in + consequence of observing that such were more easily caught for + transportation in their frequent removals in search of pasture. A similar + instance of securing a variety occurred with the short-limbed sheep in + America. + </p> + <p> + Returning by ascending the Lucalla into Cazengo, we had an opportunity of + visiting several flourishing coffee plantations, and observed that several + men, who had begun with no capital but honest industry, had, in the course + of a few years, acquired a comfortable subsistence. One of these, Mr. + Pinto, generously furnished me with a good supply of his excellent coffee, + and my men with a breed of rabbits to carry to their own country. Their + lands, granted by government, yielded, without much labor, coffee + sufficient for all the necessaries of life. + </p> + <p> + The fact of other avenues of wealth opening up so readily seems like a + providential invitation to forsake the slave-trade and engage in lawful + commerce. We saw the female population occupied, as usual, in the spinning + of cotton and cultivation of their lands. Their only instrument for + culture is a double-handled hoe, which is worked with a sort of dragging + motion. Many of the men were employed in weaving. The latter appear to be + less industrious than the former, for they require a month to finish a + single web. There is, however, not much inducement to industry, for, + notwithstanding the time consumed in its manufacture, each web is sold for + only two shillings. + </p> + <p> + On returning to Golungo Alto I found several of my men laid up with fever. + One of the reasons for my leaving them there was that they might recover + from the fatigue of the journey from Loanda, which had much more effect + upon their feet than hundreds of miles had on our way westward. They had + always been accustomed to moisture in their own well-watered land, and we + certainly had a superabundance of that in Loanda. The roads, however, from + Loanda to Golungo Alto were both hard and dry, and they suffered severely + in consequence; yet they were composing songs to be sung when they should + reach home. The Argonauts were nothing to them; and they remarked very + impressively to me, "It was well you came with Makololo, for no tribe + could have done what we have accomplished in coming to the white man's + country: we are the true ancients, who can tell wonderful things." Two of + them now had fever in the continued form, and became jaundiced, the whites + or conjunctival membrane of their eyes becoming as yellow as saffron; and + a third suffered from an attack of mania. He came to his companions one + day, and said, "Remain well. I am called away by the gods!" and set off at + the top of his speed. The young men caught him before he had gone a mile, + and bound him. By gentle treatment and watching for a few days he + recovered. I have observed several instances of this kind in the country, + but very few cases of idiocy, and I believe that continued insanity is + rare. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 21. + </h2> + <p> + Visit a deserted Convent—Favorable Report of Jesuits and their + Teaching —Gradations of native Society—Punishment of Thieves—Palm-toddy; + its baneful Effects—Freemasons—Marriages and Funerals—Litigation—Mr. + Canto's Illness—Bad Behavior of his Slaves—An Entertainment—Ideas + on Free Labor—Loss of American Cotton-seed—Abundance of Cotton + in the country—Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse—Eclipse of the Sun—Insects + which distill Water—Experiments with them—Proceed to Ambaca—Sickly + Season—Office of Commandant—Punishment of official Delinquents— + Present from Mr. Schut of Loanda—Visit Pungo Andongo—Its good + Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, etc.—The Fort and columnar Rocks—The + Queen of Jinga—Salubrity of Pungo Andongo—Price of a Slave—A + Merchant-prince—His Hospitality—Hear of the Loss of my Papers + in "Forerunner"—Narrow Escape from an Alligator—Ancient + Burial-places—Neglect of Agriculture in Angola—Manioc the + staple Product—Its Cheapness—Sickness—Friendly Visit + from a colored Priest—The Prince of Congo—No Priests in the + Interior of Angola. + </p> + <p> + While waiting for the recovery of my men, I visited, in company with my + friend Mr. Canto, the deserted convent of St. Hilarion, at Bango, a few + miles northwest of Golungo Alto. It is situated in a magnificent valley, + containing a population numbering 4000 hearths. This is the abode of the + Sova, or Chief Bango, who still holds a place of authority under the + Portuguese. The garden of the convent, the church, and dormitories of the + brethren are still kept in a good state of repair. I looked at the + furniture, couches, and large chests for holding the provisions of the + brotherhood with interest, and would fain have learned something of the + former occupants; but all the books and sacred vessels had lately been + removed to Loanda, and even the graves of the good men stand without any + record: their resting-places are, however, carefully tended. All speak + well of the Jesuits and other missionaries, as the Capuchins, etc., for + having attended diligently to the instruction of the children. They were + supposed to have a tendency to take the part of the people against the + government, and were supplanted by priests, concerning whom no regret is + expressed that they were allowed to die out. In viewing the present fruits + of former missions, it is impossible not to feel assured that, if the + Jesuit teaching has been so permanent, that of Protestants, who leave the + Bible in the hands of their converts, will not be less abiding. The chief + Bango has built a large two-story house close by the convent, but + superstitious fears prevent him from sleeping in it. The Portuguese take + advantage of all the gradations into which native society has divided + itself. This man, for instance, is still a sova or chief, has his + councilors, and maintains the same state as when the country was + independent. When any of his people are guilty of theft, he pays down the + amount of goods stolen at once, and reimburses himself out of the property + of the thief so effectually as to be benefited by the transaction. The + people under him are divided into a number of classes. There are his + councilors, as the highest, who are generally head men of several + villages, and the carriers, the lowest free men. One class above the last + obtains the privilege of wearing shoes from the chief by paying for it; + another, the soldiers or militia, pay for the privilege of serving, the + advantage being that they are not afterward liable to be made carriers. + They are also divided into gentlemen and little gentlemen, and, though + quite black, speak of themselves as white men, and of the others, who may + not wear shoes, as "blacks". The men of all these classes trust to their + wives for food, and spend most of their time in drinking the palm-toddy. + This toddy is the juice of the palm-oil-tree ('Elaeis Guineensis'), which, + when tapped, yields a sweet, clear liquid, not at all intoxicating while + fresh, but, when allowed to stand till the afternoon, causes inebriation + and many crimes. This toddy, called malova, is the bane of the country. + Culprits are continually brought before the commandants for assaults + committed through its influence. Men come up with deep gashes on their + heads; and one, who had burned his father's house, I saw making a profound + bow to Mr. Canto, and volunteering to explain why he did the deed. + </p> + <p> + There is also a sort of fraternity of freemasons, named Empacasseiros, + into which no one is admitted unless he is an expert hunter, and can shoot + well with the gun. They are distinguished by a fillet of buffalo hide + around their heads, and are employed as messengers in all cases requiring + express. They are very trustworthy, and, when on active service, form the + best native troops the Portuguese possess. The militia are of no value as + soldiers, but cost the country nothing, being supported by their wives. + Their duties are chiefly to guard the residences of commandants, and to + act as police. + </p> + <p> + The chief recreations of the natives of Angola are marriages and funerals. + When a young woman is about to be married, she is placed in a hut alone + and anointed with various unguents, and many incantations are employed in + order to secure good fortune and fruitfulness. Here, as almost every where + in the south, the height of good fortune is to bear sons. They often leave + a husband altogether if they have daughters only. In their dances, when + any one may wish to deride another, in the accompanying song a line is + introduced, "So and so has no children, and never will get any." She feels + the insult so keenly that it is not uncommon for her to rush away and + commit suicide. After some days the bride elect is taken to another hut, + and adorned with all the richest clothing and ornaments that the relatives + can either lend or borrow. She is then placed in a public situation, + saluted as a lady, and presents made by all her acquaintances are placed + around her. After this she is taken to the residence of her husband, where + she has a hut for herself, and becomes one of several wives, for polygamy + is general. Dancing, feasting, and drinking on such occasions are + prolonged for several days. In case of separation, the woman returns to + her father's family, and the husband receives back what he gave for her. + In nearly all cases a man gives a price for the wife, and in cases of + mulattoes, as much as 60 Pounds is often given to the parents of the + bride. This is one of the evils the bishop was trying to remedy. + </p> + <p> + In cases of death the body is kept several days, and there is a grand + concourse of both sexes, with beating of drums, dances, and debauchery, + kept up with feasting, etc., according to the means of the relatives. The + great ambition of many of the blacks of Angola is to give their friends an + expensive funeral. Often, when one is asked to sell a pig, he replies, "I + am keeping it in case of the death of any of my friends." A pig is usually + slaughtered and eaten on the last day of the ceremonies, and its head + thrown into the nearest stream or river. A native will sometimes appear + intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for his intemperance, will + reply, "Why! my mother is dead!" as if he thought it a sufficient + justification. The expenses of funerals are so heavy that often years + elapse before they can defray them. + </p> + <p> + These people are said to be very litigious and obstinate: constant + disputes are taking place respecting their lands. A case came before the + weekly court of the commandant involving property in a palm-tree worth + twopence. The judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case, as the mere + expenses of entering it would be much more than the cost of the tree. "Oh + no," said he; "I have a piece of calico with me for the clerk, and money + for yourself. It's my right; I will not forego it." The calico itself cost + three or four shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an enemy, "I took + him before the court." + </p> + <p> + My friend Mr. Canto, the commandant, being seized with fever in a severe + form, it afforded me much pleasure to attend HIM in his sickness, who had + been so kind to ME in mine. He was for some time in a state of + insensibility, and I, having the charge of his establishment, had thus an + opportunity of observing the workings of slavery. When a master is ill, + the slaves run riot among the eatables. I did not know this until I + observed that every time the sugar-basin came to the table it was empty. + On visiting my patient by night, I passed along a corridor, and + unexpectedly came upon the washerwoman eating pine-apples and sugar. All + the sweetmeats were devoured, and it was difficult for me to get even + bread and butter until I took the precaution of locking the pantry door. + Probably the slaves thought that, as both they and the luxuries were the + master's property, there was no good reason why they should be kept apart. + </p> + <p> + Debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoyment, they took to + killing the fowls and goats, and, when the animal was dead, brought it to + me, saying, "We found this thing lying out there." They then enjoyed a + feast of flesh. A feeling of insecurity prevails throughout this country. + It is quite common to furnish visitors with the keys of their rooms. When + called on to come to breakfast or dinner, each locks his door and puts the + key in his pocket. At Kolobeng we never locked our doors by night or by + day for months together; but there slavery is unknown. The Portuguese do + not seem at all bigoted in their attachment to slavery, nor yet in their + prejudices against color. Mr. Canto gave an entertainment in order to draw + all classes together and promote general good-will. Two sovas or native + chiefs were present, and took their places without the least appearance of + embarrassment. The Sova of Kilombo appeared in the dress of a general, and + the Sova of Bango was gayly attired in a red coat, profusely ornamented + with tinsel. The latter had a band of musicians with him consisting of six + trumpeters and four drummers, who performed very well. These men are fond + of titles, and the Portuguese government humors them by conferring + honorary captaincies, etc.: the Sova of Bango was at present anxious to + obtain the title of "Major of all the Sovas". At the tables of other + gentlemen I observed the same thing constantly occurring. At this meeting + Mr. Canto communicated some ideas which I had written out on the dignity + of labor, and the superiority of free over slave labor. The Portuguese + gentlemen present were anxiously expecting an arrival of American + cotton-seed from Mr. Gabriel. They are now in the transition state from + unlawful to lawful trade, and turn eagerly to cotton, coffee, and sugar as + new sources of wealth. Mr. Canto had been commissioned by them to purchase + three sugar-mills. Our cruisers have been the principal agents in + compelling them to abandon the slave-trade; and our government, in + furnishing them with a supply of cotton-seed, showed a generous intention + to aid them in commencing a more honorable course. It can scarcely be + believed, however, that after Lord Clarendon had been at the trouble of + procuring fresh cotton-seed through our minister at Washington, and had + sent it out to the care of H. M. Commissioner at Loanda, probably from + having fallen into the hands of a few incorrigible slave-traders, it never + reached its destination. It was most likely cast into the sea of Ambriz, + and my friends at Golungo Alto were left without the means of commencing a + new enterprise. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Canto mentioned that there is now much more cotton in the country than + can be consumed; and if he had possession of a few hundred pounds, he + would buy up all the oil and cotton at a fair price, and thereby bring + about a revolution in the agriculture of the country. These commodities + are not produced in greater quantity, because the people have no market + for those which now spring up almost spontaneously around them. The above + was put down in my journal when I had no idea that enlarged supplies of + cotton from new sources were so much needed at home. + </p> + <p> + It is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance, and cultivate beans, + potatoes, and manioc sufficient only for their own consumption. I have the + impression that cotton, which is deciduous in America, is perennial here; + for the plants I saw in winter were not dead, though going by the name + Algodao Americana, or American cotton. The rents paid for gardens + belonging to the old convents are merely nominal, varying from one + shilling to three pounds per annum. The higher rents being realized from + those in the immediate vicinity of Loanda, none but Portuguese or + half-castes can pay them. + </p> + <p> + When about to start, the horse which the governor had kindly presented for + Sekeletu was seized with inflammation, which delayed us some time longer, + and we ultimately lost it. We had been careful to watch it when coming + through the district of Matamba, where we had discovered the tsetse, that + no insect might light upon it. The change of diet here may have had some + influence in producing the disease; for I was informed by Dr. Welweitsch, + an able German naturalist, whom we found pursuing his arduous labors here, + and whose life we hope may be spared to give his researches to the world, + that, of fifty-eight kinds of grasses found at Loanda, only three or four + species exist here, and these of the most diminutive kinds. The + twenty-four different species of grass of Golungo Alto are nearly all + gigantic. Indeed, gigantic grasses, climbers, shrubs and trees, with but + few plants, constitute the vegetation of this region. + </p> + <p> + NOVEMBER 20TH. An eclipse of the sun, which I had anxiously hoped to + observe with a view of determining the longitude, happened this morning, + and, as often took place in this cloudy climate, the sun was covered four + minutes before it began. When it shone forth the eclipse was in progress, + and a few minutes before it should (according to my calculations) have + ended the sun was again completely obscured. The greatest patience and + perseverance are required, if one wishes to ascertain his position when it + is the rainy season. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a curious insect, which + inhabits trees of the fig family ('Ficus'), upward of twenty species of + which are found here. Seven or eight of them cluster round a spot on one + of the smaller branches, and there keep up a constant distillation of a + clear fluid, which, dropping to the ground, forms a little puddle below. + If a vessel is placed under them in the evening, it contains three or four + pints of fluid in the morning. The natives say that, if a drop falls into + the eyes, it causes inflammation of these organs. To the question whence + is this fluid derived, the people reply that the insects suck it out of + the tree, and our own naturalists give the same answer. I have never seen + an orifice, and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much. A + similar but much smaller homopterous insect, of the family 'Cercopidae', + is known in England as the frog-hopper ('Aphrophora spumaria'), when full + grown and furnished with wings, but while still in the pupa state it is + called "Cuckoo-spit", from the mass of froth in which it envelops itself. + The circulation of sap in plants in our climate, especially of the + graminaceae, is not quick enough to yield much moisture. The African + species is five or six times the size of the English. In the case of + branches of the fig-tree, the point the insects congregate on is soon + marked by a number of incipient roots, such as are thrown out when a + cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose of starting another + tree. I believe that both the English and African insects belong to the + same family, and differ only in size, and that the chief part of the + moisture is derived from the atmosphere. I leave it for naturalists to + explain how these little creatures distill both by night and day as much + water as they please, and are more independent than her majesty's + steam-ships, with their apparatus for condensing steam; for, without coal, + their abundant supplies of sea-water are of no avail. I tried the + following experiment: Finding a colony of these insects busily distilling + on a branch of the 'Ricinus communis', or castor-oil plant, I denuded + about 20 inches of the bark on the tree side of the insects, and scraped + away the inner bark, so as to destroy all the ascending vessels. I also + cut a hole in the side of the branch, reaching to the middle, and then cut + out the pith and internal vessels. The distillation was then going on at + the rate of one drop each 67 seconds, or about 2 ounces 5-1/2 drams in 24 + hours. Next morning the distillation, so far from being affected by the + attempt to stop the supplies, supposing they had come up through the + branch from the tree, was increased to a drop every 5 seconds, or 12 drops + per minute, making 1 pint (16 ounces) in every 24 hours. I then cut the + branch so much that, during the day, it broke; but they still went on at + the rate of a drop every 5 seconds, while another colony on a branch of + the same tree gave a drop every 17 seconds only, or at the rate of about + 10 ounces 4-4/5 drams in 24 hours. I finally cut off the branch; but this + was too much for their patience, for they immediately decamped, as insects + will do from either a dead branch or a dead animal, which Indian hunters + soon know, when they sit down on a recently-killed bear. The presence of + greater moisture in the air increased the power of these distillers: the + period of greatest activity was in the morning, when the air and every + thing else was charged with dew. + </p> + <p> + Having but one day left for experiment, I found again that another colony + on a branch denuded in the same way yielded a drop every 2 seconds, or 4 + pints 10 ounces in 24 hours, while a colony on a branch untouched yielded + a drop every 11 seconds, or 16 ounces 2-19/20 drams in 24 hours. I + regretted somewhat the want of time to institute another experiment, + namely, to cut a branch and place it in water, so as to keep it in life, + and then observe if there was any diminution of the quantity of water in + the vessel. This alone was wanting to make it certain that they draw water + from the atmosphere. I imagine that they have some power of which we are + not aware, besides that nervous influence which causes constant motion to + our own involuntary muscles, the power of life-long action without + fatigue. The reader will remember, in connection with this insect, the + case of the ants already mentioned. + </p> + <p> + DECEMBER 14TH. Both myself and men having recovered from severe attacks of + fever, we left the hospitable residence of Mr. Canto with a deep sense of + his kindness to us all, and proceeded on our way to Ambaca. (Lat. 9d 16' + 35" S., long. 15d 23' E.) + </p> + <p> + Frequent rains had fallen in October and November, which were nearly + always accompanied with thunder. Occasionally the quantity of moisture in + the atmosphere is greatly increased without any visible cause: this + imparts a sensation of considerable cold, though the thermometer exhibits + no fall of the mercury. The greater humidity in the air, affording a + better conducting medium for the radiation of heat from the body, is as + dangerous as a sudden fall of the thermometer: it causes considerable + disease among the natives, and this season is denominated "Carneirado", as + if by the disease they were slaughtered like sheep. The season of these + changes, which is the most favorable for Europeans, is the most unhealthy + for the native population; and this is by no means a climate in which + either natives or Europeans can indulge in irregularities with impunity. + </p> + <p> + Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, we were able to march + but short distances. Three hours and a half brought us to the banks of the + Caloi, a small stream which flows into the Senza. This is one of the parts + of the country reputed to yield petroleum, but the geological formation, + being mica schist, dipping toward the eastward, did not promise much for + our finding it. Our hospitable friend, Mr. Mellot, accompanied us to + another little river, called the Quango, where I saw two fine boys, the + sons of the sub-commandant, Mr. Feltao, who, though only from six to eight + years old, were subject to fever. We then passed on in the bright + sunlight, the whole country looking so fresh and green after the rains, + and every thing so cheering, one could not but wonder to find it so + feverish. + </p> + <p> + We found, on reaching Ambaca, that the gallant old soldier, Laurence Jose + Marquis, had, since our passing Icollo i Bengo, been promoted, on account + of his stern integrity, to the government of this important district. The + office of commandant is much coveted by the officers of the line who come + to Angola, not so much for the salary as for the perquisites, which, when + managed skillfully, in the course of a few years make one rich. An idea + may be formed of the conduct of some of these officials from the following + extract from the Boletin of Loanda of the 28th of October, 1854: + </p> + <p> + "The acting governor-general of the province of Angola and its + dependencies determines as follows: + </p> + <p> + "Having instituted an investigation (Syndecancia) against the commandant + of the fort of——, a captain of the army of Portugal in + commission in this province,——, on account of numerous + complaints, which have come before this government, of violences and + extortions practiced by the said commandant, and those complaints + appearing by the result of the investigation to be well founded, it will + be convenient to exonerate the captain referred to from the command of the + fort of——, to which he had been nominated by the portfolio of + this general government, No. 41, of 27th December of the past year; and if + not otherwise determined, the same official shall be judged by a council + of war for the criminal acts which are to him attributed." + </p> + <p> + Even this public mention of his crimes attaches no stigma to the man's + character. The council of war, by which these delinquents always prefer to + be judged, is composed of men who eagerly expect to occupy the post of + commandant themselves, and anticipate their own trial for similar acts at + some future time. The severest sentence a council of war awards is a few + weeks' suspension from office in his regiment. + </p> + <p> + This want of official integrity, which is not at all attributable to the + home government of Portugal, would prove a serious impediment in the way + of foreign enterprise developing the resources of this rich province. And + to this cause, indeed, may be ascribed the failure of the Portuguese laws + for the entire suppression of the slave-trade. The officers ought to + receive higher pay, if integrity is expected from them. At present, a + captain's pay for a year will only keep him in good uniform. The high pay + our own officers receive has manifest advantages. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving Ambaca we received a present of ten head of cattle from Mr. + Schut of Loanda, and, as it shows the cheapness of provisions here, I may + mention that the cost was only about a guinea per head. + </p> + <p> + On crossing the Lucalla we made a detour to the south, in order to visit + the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. As soon as we crossed the rivulet + Lotete, a change in the vegetation of the country was apparent. We found + trees identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The grass, too, + stands in tufts, and is of that kind which the natives consider to be best + adapted for cattle. Two species of grape-bearing vines abound every where + in this district, and the influence of the good pasturage is seen in the + plump condition of the cattle. In all my previous inquiries respecting the + vegetable products of Angola, I was invariably directed to Pungo Andongo. + Do you grow wheat? "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo."—Grapes, figs, or + peaches? "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo."—Do you make butter, cheese, + etc.? The uniform answer was, "Oh, yes, there is abundance of all these in + Pungo Andongo." But when we arrived here, we found that the answers all + referred to the activity of one man, Colonel Manuel Antonio Pires. The + presence of the wild grape shows that vineyards might be cultivated with + success; the wheat grows well without irrigation; and any one who tasted + the butter and cheese at the table of Colonel Pires would prefer them to + the stale produce of the Irish dairy, in general use throughout that + province. The cattle in this country are seldom milked, on account of the + strong prejudice which the Portuguese entertain against the use of milk. + They believe that it may be used with safety in the morning, but, if taken + after midday, that it will cause fever. It seemed to me that there was not + much reason for carefully avoiding a few drops in their coffee, after + having devoured ten times the amount in the shape of cheese at dinner. + </p> + <p> + The fort of Pungo Andongo (lat. 9d 42' 14" S., long. 15d 30' E.) is + situated in the midst of a group of curious columnar-shaped rocks, each of + which is upward of three hundred feet in height. They are composed of + conglomerate, made up of a great variety of rounded pieces in a matrix of + dark red sandstone. They rest on a thick stratum of this last rock, with + very few of the pebbles in its substance. On this a fossil palm has been + found, and if of the same age as those on the eastern side of the + continent, on which similar palms now lie, there may be coal underneath + this, as well as under that at Tete. The asserted existence of petroleum + springs at Dande, and near Cambambe, would seem to indicate the presence + of this useful mineral, though I am not aware of any one having actually + seen a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in Angola, as we have at + Tete. The gigantic pillars of Pungo Andongo have been formed by a current + of the sea coming from the S.S.E.; for, seen from the top, they appear + arranged in that direction, and must have withstood the surges of the + ocean at a period of our world's history, when the relations of land and + sea were totally different from what they are now, and long before "the + morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted for joy to + see the abodes prepared which man was soon to fill." The imbedded pieces + in the conglomerate are of gneiss, clay shale, mica and sandstone schists, + trap, and porphyry, most of which are large enough to give the whole the + appearance of being the only remaining vestiges of vast primaeval banks of + shingle. Several little streams run among these rocks, and in the central + part of the pillars stands the village, completely environed by well-nigh + inaccessible rocks. The pathways into the village might be defended by a + small body of troops against an army; and this place was long the + stronghold of the tribe called Jinga, the original possessors of the + country. + </p> + <p> + We were shown a footprint carved on one of these rocks. It is spoken of as + that of a famous queen, who reigned over all this region. In looking at + these rude attempts at commemoration, one feels the value of letters. In + the history of Angola we find that the famous queen Donna Anna de Souza + came from the vicinity, as embassadress from her brother, Gola Bandy, King + of the Jinga, to Loanda, in 1621, to sue for peace, and astonished the + governor by the readiness of her answers. The governor proposed, as a + condition of peace, the payment by the Jinga of an annual tribute. "People + talk of tribute after they have conquered, and not before it; we come to + talk of peace, not of subjection," was the ready answer. The governor was + as much nonplussed as our Cape governors often are when they tell the + Caffres "to put it all down in writing, and they will then be able to + answer them." She remained some time in Loanda, gained all she sought, + and, after being taught by the missionaries, was baptized, and returned to + her own country with honor. She succeeded to the kingdom on the death of + her brother, whom it was supposed she poisoned, but in a subsequent war + with the Portuguese she lost nearly all her army in a great battle fought + in 1627. She returned to the Church after a long period of apostasy, and + died in extreme old age; and the Jinga still live as an independent people + to the north of this their ancient country. No African tribe has ever been + destroyed. + </p> + <p> + In former times the Portuguese imagined that this place was particularly + unhealthy, and banishment to the black rocks of Pungo Andongo was thought + by their judges to be a much severer sentence than transportation to any + part of the coast; but this district is now well known to be the most + healthy part of Angola. The water is remarkably pure, the soil is light, + and the country open and undulating, with a general slope down toward the + River Coanza, a few miles distant. That river is the southern boundary of + the Portuguese, and beyond, to the S. and S.W., we see the high mountains + of the Libollo. On the S.E. we have also a mountainous country, inhabited + by the Kimbonda or Ambonda, who are said by Colonel Pires to be a very + brave and independent people, but hospitable and fair in their dealings. + They are rich in cattle, and their country produces much beeswax, which is + carefully collected, and brought to the Portuguese, with whom they have + always been on good terms. + </p> + <p> + The Ako (Haco), a branch of this family, inhabit the left bank of the + Coanza above this village, who, instead of bringing slaves for sale, as + formerly, now occasionally bring wax for the purchase of a slave from the + Portuguese. I saw a boy sold for twelve shillings: he said that he + belonged to the country of Matiamvo. Here I bought a pair of well-made + boots, of good tanned leather, which reached above the knee, for five + shillings and eightpence, and that was just the price given for one pound + of ivory by Mr. Pires; consequently, the boy was worth two pairs of boots, + or two pounds of ivory. The Libollo on the S. have not so good a + character, but the Coanza is always deep enough to form a line of defense. + Colonel Pires is a good example of what an honest industrious man in this + country may become. He came as a servant in a ship, and, by a long course + of persevering labor, has raised himself to be the richest merchant in + Angola. He possesses some thousands of cattle; and, on any emergency, can + appear in the field with several hundred armed slaves. + </p> + <p> + While enjoying the hospitality of this merchant-prince in his commodious + residence, which is outside the rocks, and commands a beautiful view of + all the adjacent country, I learned that all my dispatches, maps, and + journal had gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail-packet "Forerunner". + I felt so glad that my friend Lieutenant Bedingfeld, to whose care I had + committed them, though in the most imminent danger, had not shared a + similar fate, that I was at once reconciled to the labor of rewriting. I + availed myself of the kindness of Colonel Pires, and remained till the end + of the year reproducing my lost papers. + </p> + <p> + Colonel Pires having another establishment on the banks of the Coanza, + about six miles distant, I visited it with him about once a week for the + purpose of recreation. The difference of temperature caused by the lower + altitude was seen in the cashew-trees; for while, near the rocks, these + trees were but coming into flower, those at the lower station were + ripening their fruit. Cocoanut trees and bananas bear well at the lower + station, but yield little or no fruit at the upper. The difference + indicated by the thermometer was 7 Deg. The general range near the rocks + was 67 Deg. at 7 A.M., 74 Deg. at midday, and 72 Deg. in the evening. + </p> + <p> + A slave-boy belonging to Colonel Pires, having stolen and eaten some + lemons in the evening, went to the river to wash his mouth, so as not to + be detected by the flavor. An alligator seized him and carried him to an + island in the middle of the stream; there the boy grasped hold of the + reeds, and baffled all the efforts of the reptile to dislodge him, till + his companions, attracted by his cries, came in a canoe to his assistance. + The alligator at once let go his hold; for, when out of his own element, + he is cowardly. The boy had many marks of the teeth in his abdomen and + thigh, and those of the claws on his legs and arms. + </p> + <p> + The slaves in Colonel Pires' establishments appeared more like free + servants than any I had elsewhere seen. Every thing was neat and clean, + while generally, where slaves are the only domestics, there is an aspect + of slovenliness, as if they went on the principle of always doing as + little for their masters as possible. + </p> + <p> + In the country near to this station were a large number of the ancient + burial-places of the Jinga. These are simply large mounds of stones, with + drinking and cooking vessels of rude pottery on them. Some are arranged in + a circular form, two or three yards in diameter, and shaped like a + haycock. There is not a single vestige of any inscription. The natives of + Angola generally have a strange predilection for bringing their dead to + the sides of the most frequented paths. They have a particular anxiety to + secure the point where cross-roads meet. On and around the graves are + planted tree euphorbias and other species of that family. On the grave + itself they also place water-bottles, broken pipes, cooking vessels, and + sometimes a little bow and arrow. + </p> + <p> + The Portuguese government, wishing to prevent this custom, affixed a + penalty on any one burying in the roads, and appointed places of public + sepulture in every district in the country. The people persist, however, + in spite of the most stringent enforcement of the law, to follow their + ancient custom. + </p> + <p> + The country between the Coanza and Pungo Andongo is covered with low + trees, bushes, and fine pasturage. In the latter, we were pleased to see + our old acquaintances, the gaudy gladiolus, Amaryllis toxicaria, + hymanthus, and other bulbs in as flourishing a condition as at the Cape. + </p> + <p> + It is surprising that so little has been done in the way of agriculture in + Angola. Raising wheat by means of irrigation has never been tried; no plow + is ever used; and the only instrument is the native hoe, in the hands of + slaves. The chief object of agriculture is the manioc, which does not + contain nutriment sufficient to give proper stamina to the people. The + half-caste Portuguese have not so much energy as their fathers. They + subsist chiefly on the manioc, and, as that can be eaten either raw, + roasted, or boiled, as it comes from the ground; or fermented in water, + and then roasted or dried after fermentation, and baked or pounded into + fine meal; or rasped into meal and cooked as farina; or made into + confectionary with butter and sugar, it does not so soon pall upon the + palate as one might imagine, when told that it constitutes their principal + food. The leaves boiled make an excellent vegetable for the table; and, + when eaten by goats, their milk is much increased. The wood is a good + fuel, and yields a large quantity of potash. If planted in a dry soil, it + takes two years to come to perfection, requiring, during that time, one + weeding only. It bears drought well, and never shrivels up, like other + plants, when deprived of rain. When planted in low alluvial soils, and + either well supplied with rain or annually flooded, twelve, or even ten + months, are sufficient to bring it to maturity. The root rasped while raw, + placed upon a cloth, and rubbed with the hands while water is poured upon + it, parts with its starchy glutinous matter, and this, when it settles at + the bottom of the vessel, and the water poured off, is placed in the sun + till nearly dry, to form tapioca. The process of drying is completed on an + iron plate over a slow fire, the mass being stirred meanwhile with a + stick, and when quite dry it appears agglutinated into little globules, + and is in the form we see the tapioca of commerce. This is never eaten by + weevils, and so little labor is required in its cultivation that on the + spot it is extremely cheap. Throughout the interior parts of Angola, fine + manioc meal, which could with ease have been converted either into + superior starch or tapioca, is commonly sold at the rate of about ten + pounds for a penny. All this region, however, has no means of transport to + Loanda other than the shoulders of the carriers and slaves over a + footpath. + </p> + <p> + Cambambe, to which the navigation of the Coanza reaches, is reported to be + thirty leagues below Pungo Andongo. A large waterfall is the limit on that + side; and another exists higher up, at the confluence of the Lombe (lat. + 9d 41' 26" S., and about long. 16d E.), over which hippopotami and + elephants are sometimes drawn and killed. The river between is rapid, and + generally rushes over a rocky bottom. Its source is pointed out as S.E. or + S.S.E. of its confluence with the Lombe, and near Bihe. The situation of + Bihe is not well known. When at Sanza we were assured that it lies nearly + south of that point, and eight days distant. This statement seemed to be + corroborated by our meeting many people going to Matiamvo and to Loanda + from Bihe. Both parties had come to Sanza, and then branched off, one to + the east, the other to the west. The source of the Coanza is thus probably + not far from Sanza. + </p> + <p> + I had the happiness of doing a little good in the way of administering to + the sick, for there are no doctors in the interior of Angola. + Notwithstanding the general healthiness of this fine district and its + pleasant temperature, I was attacked by fever myself. While confined to my + room, a gentleman of color, a canon of the Church, kindly paid me a visit. + He was on a tour of visitation in the different interior districts for the + purpose of baptizing and marrying. He had lately been on a visit to Lisbon + in company with the Prince of Congo, and had been invested with an order + of honor by the King of Portugal as an acknowledgment of his services. He + had all the appearance of a true negro, but commanded the respect of the + people; and Colonel P., who had known him for thirty years, pronounced him + to be a good man. There are only three or four priests in Loanda, all men + of color, but educated for the office. About the time of my journey in + Angola, an offer was made to any young men of ability who might wish to + devote themselves to the service of the Church, to afford them the + requisite education at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. I was + informed, on what seemed good authority, that the Prince of Congo is + professedly a Christian, and that there are no fewer than twelve churches + in that kingdom, the fruits of the mission established in former times at + San Salvador, the capital. These churches are kept in partial repair by + the people, who also keep up the ceremonies of the Church, pronouncing + some gibberish over the dead, in imitation of the Latin prayers which they + had formerly heard. Many of them can read and write. When a King of Congo + dies, the body is wrapped up in a great many folds of cloth until a priest + can come from Loanda to consecrate his successor. The King of Congo still + retains the title of Lord of Angola, which he had when the Jinga, the + original possessors of the soil, owed him allegiance; and, when he writes + to the Governor of Angola, he places his own name first, as if addressing + his vassal. The Jinga paid him tribute annually in cowries, which were + found on the island that shelters Loanda harbor, and, on refusing to + continue payment, the King of Congo gave over the island to the + Portuguese, and thus their dominion commenced in this quarter. + </p> + <p> + There is not much knowledge of the Christian religion in either Congo or + Angola, yet it is looked upon with a certain degree of favor. The + prevalence of fever is probably the reason why no priest occupies a post + in any part of the interior. They come on tours of visitation like that + mentioned, and it is said that no expense is incurred, for all the people + are ready not only to pay for their services, but also to furnish every + article in their power gratuitously. In view of the desolate condition of + this fine missionary field, it is more than probable that the presence of + a few Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not to love, to good + works. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 22. + </h2> + <p> + Leave Pungo Andongo—Extent of Portuguese Power—Meet Traders + and Carriers—Red Ants; their fierce Attack; Usefulness; Numbers—Descend + the Heights of Tala Mungongo—Fruit-trees in the Valley of Cassange—Edible + Muscle—Birds—Cassange Village—Quinine and Cathory— + Sickness of Captain Neves' Infant—A Diviner thrashed—Death of + the Child—Mourning—Loss of Life from the Ordeal—Wide-spread + Superstitions—The Chieftainship—Charms—Receive Copies of + the "Times"—Trading Pombeiros—Present for Matiamvo—Fever + after westerly Winds—Capabilities of Angola for producing the raw + Materials of English Manufacture—Trading Parties with Ivory—More + Fever—A Hyaena's Choice—Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese—Cypriano's + Debt—A Funeral—Dread of disembodied Spirits—Beautiful + Morning Scenes— Crossing the Quango—Ambakistas called "The + Jews of Angola"—Fashions of the Bashinje—Approach the Village + of Sansawe—His Idea of Dignity—The Pombeiros' Present—Long + Detention—A Blow on the Beard—Attacked in a Forest—Sudden + Conversion of a fighting Chief to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver—No + Blood shed in consequence—Rate of Traveling—Slave Women—Way + of addressing Slaves—Their thievish Propensities—Feeders of + the Congo or Zaire—Obliged to refuse Presents—Cross the + Loajima—Appearance of People; Hair Fashions. + </p> + <p> + JANUARY 1, 1855. Having, through the kindness of Colonel Pires, reproduced + some of my lost papers, I left Pungo Andongo the first day of this year, + and at Candumba, slept in one of the dairy establishments of my friend, + who had sent forward orders for an ample supply of butter, cheese, and + milk. Our path lay along the right bank of the Coanza. This is composed of + the same sandstone rock, with pebbles, which forms the flooring of the + country. The land is level, has much open forest, and is well adapted for + pasturage. + </p> + <p> + On reaching the confluence of the Lombe, we left the river, and proceeded + in a northeasterly direction, through a fine open green country, to the + village of Malange, where we struck into our former path. A few miles to + the west of this a path branches off to a new district named the Duke + Braganza. This path crosses the Lucalla and several of its feeders. The + whole of the country drained by these is described as extremely fertile. + The territory west of Braganza is reported to be mountainous, well wooded + and watered; wild coffee is abundant, and the people even make their huts + of coffee-trees. The rivers Dande, Senza, and Lucalla are said to rise in + one mountain range. Numerous tribes inhabit the country to the north, who + are all independent. The Portuguese power extends chiefly over the tribes + through whose lands we have passed. It may be said to be firmly seated + only between the rivers Dande and Coanza. It extends inland about three + hundred miles to the River Quango; and the population, according to the + imperfect data afforded by the census, given annually by the commandants + of the fifteen or sixteen districts into which it is divided, can not be + under 600,000 souls. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Malange, we passed quickly, without deviation, along the path by + which we had come. At Sanza (lat. 9d 37' 46" S., long. 16d 59' E.) we + expected to get a little seed-wheat, but this was not now to be found in + Angola. The underlying rock of the whole of this section is that same + sandstone which we have before noticed, but it gradually becomes finer in + the grain, with the addition of a little mica, the farther we go eastward; + we enter upon clay shale at Tala Mungongo (lat. 9d 42' 37" S., long. 17d + 27' E.), and find it dipping a little to the west. The general geological + structure is a broad fringe of mica and sandstone schist (about 15 Deg. + E.), dipping in toward the centre of the country, beneath these horizontal + and sedimentary rocks of more recent date, which form an inland basin. The + fringe is not, however, the highest in altitude, though the oldest in age. + </p> + <p> + While at this latter place we met a native of Bihe who has visited the + country of Shinte three times for the purposes of trade. He gave us some + of the news of that distant part, but not a word of the Makololo, who have + always been represented in the countries to the north as a desperately + savage race, whom no trader could visit with safety. The half-caste + traders whom we met at Shinte's had returned to Angola with sixty-six + slaves and upward of fifty tusks of ivory. As we came along the path, we + daily met long lines of carriers bearing large square masses of beeswax, + each about a hundred pounds weight, and numbers of elephants' tusks, the + property of Angolese merchants. Many natives were proceeding to the coast + also on their own account, carrying beeswax, ivory, and sweet oil. They + appeared to travel in perfect security; and at different parts of the road + we purchased fowls from them at a penny each. My men took care to + celebrate their own daring in having actually entered ships, while the + natives of these parts, who had endeavored to frighten them on their way + down, had only seen them at a distance. Poor fellows! they were more than + ever attentive to me; and, as they were not obliged to erect sheds for + themselves, in consequence of finding them already built at the different + sleeping-places, all their care was bestowed in making me comfortable. + Mashauana, as usual, made his bed with his head close to my feet, and + never during the entire journey did I have to call him twice for any thing + I needed. + </p> + <p> + During our stay at Tala Mungongo, our attention was attracted to a species + of red ant which infests different parts of this country. It is remarkably + fond of animal food. The commandant of the village having slaughtered a + cow, slaves were obliged to sit up the whole night, burning fires of straw + around the meat, to prevent them from devouring most of it. These ants are + frequently met with in numbers like a small army. At a little distance + they appear as a brownish-red band, two or three inches wide, stretched + across the path, all eagerly pressing on in one direction. If a person + happens to tread upon them, they rush up his legs and bite with surprising + vigor. The first time I encountered this by no means contemptible enemy + was near Cassange. My attention being taken up in viewing the distant + landscape, I accidentally stepped upon one of their nests. Not an instant + seemed to elapse before a simultaneous attack was made on various + unprotected parts, up the trowsers from below, and on my neck and breast + above. The bites of these furies were like sparks of fire, and there was + no retreat. I jumped about for a second or two, then in desperation tore + off all my clothing, and rubbed and picked them off seriatim as quickly as + possible. Ugh! they would make the most lethargic mortal look alive. + Fortunately, no one observed this rencounter, or word might have been + taken back to the village that I had become mad. I was once assaulted in a + similar way when sound asleep at night in my tent, and it was only by + holding my blanket over the fire that I could get rid of them. It is + really astonishing how such small bodies can contain so large an amount of + ill-nature. They not only bite, but twist themselves round after the + mandibles are inserted, to produce laceration and pain, more than would be + effected by the single wound. Frequently, while sitting on the ox, as he + happened to tread near a band, they would rush up his legs to the rider, + and soon let him know that he had disturbed their march. They possess no + fear, attacking with equal ferocity the largest as well as the smallest + animals. When any person has leaped over the band, numbers of them leave + the ranks and rush along the path, seemingly anxious for a fight. They are + very useful in ridding the country of dead animal matter, and, when they + visit a human habitation, clear it entirely of the destructive white ants + and other vermin. They destroy many noxious insects and reptiles. The + severity of their attack is greatly increased by their vast numbers, and + rats, mice, lizards, and even the 'Python natalensis', when in a state of + surfeit from recent feeding, fall victims to their fierce onslaught. These + ants never make hills like the white ant. Their nests are but a short + distance beneath the soil, which has the soft appearance of the abodes of + ants in England. Occasionally they construct galleries over their path to + the cells of the white ant, in order to secure themselves from the heat of + the sun during their marauding expeditions. + </p> + <p> + JANUARY 15TH, 1855. We descended in one hour from the heights of Tala + Mungongo. I counted the number of paces made on the slope downward, and + found them to be sixteen hundred, which may give a perpendicular height of + from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. Water boiled at 206 Degrees at Tala + Mungongo above, and at 208 Deg. at the bottom of the declivity, the air + being at 72 Deg. in the shade in the former case, and 94 Deg. in the + latter. The temperature generally throughout the day was from 94 Deg. to + 97 Deg. in the coolest shade we could find. + </p> + <p> + The rivulets which cut up the valley of Cassange were now dry, but the Lui + and Luare contained abundance of rather brackish water. The banks are + lined with palm, wild date-trees, and many guavas, the fruit of which was + now becoming ripe. A tree much like the mango abounds, but it does not + yield fruit. In these rivers a kind of edible muscle is plentiful, the + shells of which exist in all the alluvial beds of the ancient rivers as + far as the Kuruman. The brackish nature of the water probably enables it + to exist here. On the open grassy lawns great numbers of a species of lark + are seen. They are black, with yellow shoulders. Another black bird, with + a long tail ('Centropus Senegalensis'), floats awkwardly, with its tail in + a perpendicular position, over the long grass. It always chooses the + highest points, and is caught on them with bird-lime, the long black + tail-feathers being highly esteemed by the natives for plumes. We saw here + also the "Lehututu" ('Tragopan Leadbeaterii'), a large bird strongly + resembling a turkey; it is black on the ground, but when it flies the + outer half of the wings are white. It kills serpents, striking them + dexterously behind the head. It derives its native name from the noise it + makes, and it is found as far as Kolobeng. Another species like it is + called the Abyssinian hornbill. + </p> + <p> + Before we reached Cassange we were overtaken by the commandant, Senhor + Carvalho, who was returning, with a detachment of fifty men and a + field-piece, from an unsuccessful search after some rebels. The rebels had + fled, and all he could do was to burn their huts. He kindly invited me to + take up my residence with him; but, not wishing to pass by the gentleman + (Captain Neves) who had so kindly received me on my first arrival in the + Portuguese possessions, I declined. Senhor Rego had been superseded in his + command, because the Governor Amaral, who had come into office since my + departure from Loanda, had determined that the law which requires the + office of commandant to be exclusively occupied by military officers of + the line should once more come into operation. I was again most kindly + welcomed by my friend, Captain Neves, whom I found laboring under a + violent inflammation and abscess of the hand. There is nothing in the + situation of this village to indicate unhealthiness, except, perhaps, the + rank luxuriance of the vegetation. Nearly all the Portuguese inhabitants + suffer from enlargement of the spleen, the effects of frequent + intermittents, and have generally a sickly appearance. Thinking that this + affection of the hand was simply an effort of nature to get rid of + malarious matter from the system, I recommended the use of quinine. He + himself applied the leaf of a plant called cathory, famed among the + natives as an excellent remedy for ulcers. The cathory leaves, when + boiled, exude a gummy juice, which effectually shuts out the external air. + Each remedy, of course, claimed the merit of the cure. + </p> + <p> + Many of the children are cut off by fever. A fine boy of Captain Neves' + had, since my passage westward, shared a similar fate. Another child died + during the period of my visit. During his sickness, his mother, a woman of + color, sent for a diviner in order to ascertain what ought to be done. The + diviner, after throwing his dice, worked himself into the state of ecstasy + in which they pretend to be in communication with the Barimo. He then gave + the oracular response that the child was being killed by the spirit of a + Portuguese trader who once lived at Cassange. The case was this: on the + death of the trader, the other Portuguese merchants in the village came + together, and sold the goods of the departed to each other, each man + accounting for the portion received to the creditors of the deceased at + Loanda. The natives, looking on, and not understanding the nature of + written mercantile transactions, concluded that the merchants of Cassange + had simply stolen the dead man's goods, and that now the spirit was + killing the child of Captain Neves for the part he had taken in the + affair. The diviner, in his response, revealed the impression made on his + own mind by the sale, and likewise the native ideas of departed souls. As + they give the whites credit for greater stupidity than themselves in all + these matters, the mother of the child came, and told the father that he + ought to give a slave to the diviner as a fee to make a sacrifice to + appease the spirit and save the life of the child. The father quietly sent + for a neighbor, and, though the diviner pretended to remain in his state + of ecstasy, the brisk application of two sticks to his back suddenly + reduced him to his senses and a most undignified flight. + </p> + <p> + The mother of this child seemed to have no confidence in European wisdom, + and, though I desired her to keep the child out of currents of wind, she + preferred to follow her own custom, and even got it cupped on the cheeks. + The consequence was that the child was soon in a dying state, and the + father wishing it to be baptized, I commended its soul to the care and + compassion of Him who said, "Of such is the kingdom of heaven." The mother + at once rushed away, and commenced that doleful wail which is so + affecting, as it indicates sorrow without hope. She continued it without + intermission until the child was buried. In the evening her female + companions used a small musical instrument, which produced a kind of + screeching sound, as an accompaniment of the death wail. + </p> + <p> + In the construction of this instrument they make use of caoutchouc, which, + with a variety of other gums, is found in different parts of this country. + </p> + <p> + The intercourse which the natives have had with white men does not seem to + have much ameliorated their condition. A great number of persons are + reported to lose their lives annually in different districts of Angola by + the cruel superstitions to which they are addicted, and the Portuguese + authorities either know nothing of them, or are unable to prevent their + occurrence. The natives are bound to secrecy by those who administer the + ordeal, which generally causes the death of the victim. A person, when + accused of witchcraft, will often travel from distant districts in order + to assert her innocency and brave the test. They come to a river on the + Cassange called Dua, drink the infusion of a poisonous tree, and perish + unknown. + </p> + <p> + A woman was accused by a brother-in-law of being the cause of his sickness + while we were at Cassange. She offered to take the ordeal, as she had the + idea that it would but prove her conscious innocence. Captain Neves + refused his consent to her going, and thus saved her life, which would + have been sacrificed, for the poison is very virulent. When a strong + stomach rejects it, the accuser reiterates his charge; the dose is + repeated, and the person dies. Hundreds perish thus every year in the + valley of Cassange. + </p> + <p> + The same superstitious ideas being prevalent through the whole of the + country north of the Zambesi, seems to indicate that the people must + originally have been one. All believe that the souls of the departed still + mingle among the living, and partake in some way of the food they consume. + In sickness, sacrifices of fowls and goats are made to appease the + spirits. It is imagined that they wish to take the living away from earth + and all its enjoyments. When one man has killed another, a sacrifice is + made, as if to lay the spirit of the victim. A sect is reported to exist + who kill men in order to take their hearts and offer them to the Barimo. + </p> + <p> + The chieftainship is elective from certain families. Among the Bangalas of + the Cassange valley the chief is chosen from three families in rotation. A + chief's brother inherits in preference to his son. The sons of a sister + belong to her brother; and he often sells his nephews to pay his debts. By + this and other unnatural customs, more than by war, is the slave-market + supplied. + </p> + <p> + The prejudices in favor of these practices are very deeply rooted in the + native mind. Even at Loanda they retire out of the city in order to + perform their heathenish rites without the cognizance of the authorities. + Their religion, if such it may be called, is one of dread. Numbers of + charms are employed to avert the evils with which they feel themselves to + be encompassed. Occasionally you meet a man, more cautious or more timid + than the rest, with twenty or thirty charms round his neck. He seems to + act upon the principle of Proclus, in his prayer to all the gods and + goddesses: among so many he surely must have the right one. The disrespect + which Europeans pay to the objects of their fear is to their minds only an + evidence of great folly. + </p> + <p> + While here, I reproduced the last of my lost papers and maps; and as there + is a post twice a month from Loanda, I had the happiness to receive a + packet of the "Times", and, among other news, an account of the Russian + war up to the terrible charge of the light cavalry. The intense anxiety I + felt to hear more may be imagined by every true patriot; but I was forced + to brood on in silent thought, and utter my poor prayers for friends who + perchance were now no more, until I reached the other side of the + continent. + </p> + <p> + A considerable trade is carried on by the Cassange merchants with all the + surrounding territory by means of native traders, whom they term + "Pombeiros". Two of these, called in the history of Angola "the trading + blacks" (os feirantes pretos), Pedro Joao Baptista and Antonio Jose, + having been sent by the first Portuguese trader that lived at Cassange, + actually returned from some of the Portuguese possessions in the East with + letters from the governor of Mozambique in the year 1815, proving, as is + remarked, "the possibility of so important a communication between + Mozambique and Loanda." This is the only instance of native Portuguese + subjects crossing the continent. No European ever accomplished it, though + this fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been "PORTUGUESE". + </p> + <p> + Captain Neves was now actively engaged in preparing a present, worth about + fifty pounds, to be sent by Pombeiros to Matiamvo. It consisted of great + quantities of cotton cloth, a large carpet, an arm-chair with a canopy and + curtains of crimson calico, an iron bedstead, mosquito curtains, beads, + etc., and a number of pictures rudely painted in oil by an embryo black + painter at Cassange. + </p> + <p> + Matiamvo, like most of the natives in the interior of the country, has a + strong desire to possess a cannon, and had sent ten large tusks to + purchase one; but, being government property, it could not be sold: he was + now furnished with a blunderbuss, mounted as a cannon, which would + probably please him as well. + </p> + <p> + Senhor Graca and some other Portuguese have visited this chief at + different times; but no European resides beyond the Quango; indeed, it is + contrary to the policy of the government of Angola to allow their subjects + to penetrate further into the interior. The present would have been a good + opportunity for me to have visited that chief, and I felt strongly + inclined to do so, as he had expressed dissatisfaction respecting my + treatment by the Chiboque, and even threatened to punish them. As it would + be improper to force my men to go thither, I resolved to wait and see + whether the proposition might not emanate from themselves. When I can get + the natives to agree in the propriety of any step, they go to the end of + the affair without a murmur. I speak to them and treat them as rational + beings, and generally get on well with them in consequence. + </p> + <p> + I have already remarked on the unhealthiness of Cassange; and Captain + Neves, who possesses an observing turn of mind, had noticed that always + when the west wind blows much fever immediately follows. As long as + easterly winds prevail, all enjoy good health; but in January, February, + March, and April, the winds are variable, and sickness is general. The + unhealthiness of the westerly winds probably results from malaria, + appearing to be heavier than common air, and sweeping down into the valley + of Cassange from the western plateau, somewhat in the same way as the + carbonic acid gas from bean-fields is supposed by colliers to do into + coal-pits. In the west of Scotland strong objections are made by that body + of men to farmers planting beans in their vicinity, from the belief that + they render the mines unhealthy. The gravitation of the malaria from the + more elevated land of Tala Mungongo toward Cassange is the only way the + unhealthiness of this spot on the prevalence of the westerly winds can be + accounted for. The banks of the Quango, though much more marshy, and + covered with ranker vegetation, are comparatively healthy; but thither the + westerly wind does not seem to convey the noxious agent. + </p> + <p> + FEB. 20TH. On the day of starting from Cassange, the westerly wind blew + strongly, and on the day following we were brought to a stand by several + of our party being laid up with fever. This complaint is the only serious + drawback Angola possesses. It is in every other respect an agreeable land, + and admirably adapted for yielding a rich abundance of tropical produce + for the rest of the world. Indeed, I have no hesitation in asserting that, + had it been in the possession of England, it would now have been yielding + as much or more of the raw material for her manufactures as an equal + extent of territory in the cotton-growing states of America. A railway + from Loanda to this valley would secure the trade of most of the interior + of South Central Africa.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The following statistics may be of interest to mercantile + men. They show that since the repression of the slave-trade in + Angola the value of the exports in lawful commerce has + steadily augmented. We have no returns since 1850, but the + prosperity of legitimate trade has suffered no check. The + duties are noted in Portuguese money, "milreis", each of which + is about three shillings in value. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Return of the Quantities and Value of the Staple Articles, the + Produce of the Province of ANGOLA, exported from ST. PAUL DE + LOANDA between July 1, 1848, and June 30, 1849, specifying the + Quantities and Value of those exported in Portuguese Ships and + in Ships of other Nations. + + + | | In Portuguese Ships. || In Ships of other Nations. | + | Articles. |————————————||——————————————| + | | Amount. | Value. || Amount. | Value. | + |————————-|————-|———————||——————-|———————| + | | | L. s. d. || | L. s. d. | + | Ivory. . . Cwt. | 1454 | 35,350 0 0 || 515 | 12,875 0 0 | + | Palm oil . " | 1440 | 2,160 0 0 || 6671 1 qr. | 10,036 17 6 | + | Coffee . . " | 152 | 304 0 0 || 684 | 1,368 0 0 | + | Hides. . . No. | 1837 | 633 17 6 || 849 | 318 17 6 | + | Gum. . . . Cwt. | 147 | 205 16 0 || 4763 | 6,668 4 0 | + | Beeswax. . " | 1109 | 6,654 0 0 || 544 | 3,264 0 0 | + | Orchella . Tons | 630 | 23,940 0 0 || .... | .... | + | | |———————|| |———————| + | | | 69,247 13 6 || | 34,530 19 0 | + + + TOTAL Quantity and Value of Exports from LOANDA. + + L. s. d. + Ivory . . . Cwt. 1969 . . . . 48,225 0 0 + Palm oil. . " 8111 1 qr. . . . . 12,196 17 6 + Coffee. . . " 836 . . . . 1,672 0 0 + Hides . . . No. 2686 . . . . 952 15 0 + Gum . . . . Cwt. 4910 . . . . 6,874 0 0 + Beeswax . . " 1653 . . . . 9,918 0 0 + Orchella. . Tons 630 . . . . 23,940 0 0 + ——————- + L. 103,778 12 6 + + ABSTRACT VIEW of the Net Revenue of the Customs at St. Paul de Loanda + in quinquennial periods from 1818-19 to 1843-44, both included; + and thence in each year to 1848-49. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + | | | | | |Tonnage Dues,| + | | Duties on | Duties on |Duties on | Duties on |Store Rents, | + | Years. | Importation.|Exportation.|Re-export-| Slaves. | and other | + | | | | ation. | | incidental | + | | | | | | Receipts. | + |————-|——————-|——————|—————|——————|——————-| + | | Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.|Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.| + | 1818-19 | 573 876 | ... | .... |137,320 800 | 148,608 661 | + | 1823-24 | 3,490 752 | 460 420 | .... |120,843 000 | 133,446 892 | + | 1828-29 | 4,700 684 | 800 280 | .... |125,330 000 | 139,981 364 | + | 1833-34 | 7,490 000 | 1,590 000 | .... |139,280 000 | 158,978 640 | + | 1838-39 | 25,800 590 | 2,720 000 | .... |135,470 320 | 173,710 910 | + | 1843-44 | 53,240 000 | 4,320 000 | .... | 72,195 230 | 138,255 230 | + | 1844-45 | 99,380 264 | 6,995 095 | .... | 17,676 000 | 134,941 359 | + | 1845-46 | 150,233 789 | 9,610 735 | .... | 5,116 500 | 181,423 550 | + | 1846-47 | 122,501 186 | 8,605 821 | .... | 549 000 | 114,599 235 | + | 1847-48 | 119,246 826 | 9,718 676 | 4097 868 | 1,231 200 | 146,321 476 | + | 1848-49 | 131,105 453 | 9,969 960 | 1164 309 | 1,183 500 | 157,152 400 | + | |——————-|——————| |——————| | + | | 717,763 420*| 54,790 987 | |756,195 550 | | + | | = L.102,680 | = L.7827 | |= L.108,028 | | + + * This figure was originally miscalculated as 718,763 420, + which probably affected its conversion into Pounds.—A. L., 1997. + + ————————————————————————————————————- + | | Net Revenue | Revenue from | Total Net | Total Amount | + | Years. | of Customs. | other Sources. | Revenue. | of Charges. | + |————-|———————|————————|———————|———————| + | | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | + | 1844-45 | 26,988 5 5 | 9,701 10 8 | 36,689 16 1 | 53,542 5 4 | + | 1845-46 | 36,284 14 2 | 24,580 4 10 | 60,864 19 0 | 56,695 9 7 | + | 1846-47 | 28,919 16 11 | 23,327 9 11 | 52,247 6 10 | 52,180 9 7 | + | 1847-48 | 29,264 5 10 | 24,490 11 8 | 53,754 17 6 | 53,440 8 8 | + | 1848-49 | 31,430 9 7 | 18,868 3 10 | 51,298 13 5 | 50,686 3 3 | + ————————————————————————————————————- +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The above account exhibits the total revenue and charges of + the government of St. Paul de Loanda in each year, from 1844- + 45 to 1848-49, both included. The above three tables are + copied from the appendix to a dispatch sent by Mr. Gabriel to + Viscount Palmerston, dated the 5th of August, 1850, and, among + other facts of interest, show a very satisfactory diminution + in the duties upon slaves. + + The returns from 1818 to 1844 have been obtained from + different sources as the average revenue; those from 1844 to + 1849 are from the Custom-house records. +</pre> + <p> + As soon as we could move toward the Quango we did so, meeting in our + course several trading-parties, both native and Portuguese. We met two of + the latter carrying a tusk weighing 126 lbs. The owner afterward informed + us that its fellow on the left side of the same elephant was 130 lbs. It + was 8 feet 6-1/2 inches long, and 21 inches in circumference at the part + on which the lip of the animal rests. The elephant was rather a small one, + as is common in this hot central region. Some idea may be formed of the + strength of his neck when it is recollected that he bore a weight of 256 + lbs. The ivory which comes from the east and northeast of Cassange is very + much larger than any to be found further south. Captain Neves had one + weighing 120 lbs., and this weight is by no means uncommon. They have been + found weighing even 158 lbs. + </p> + <p> + Before reaching the Quango we were again brought to a stand by fever in + two of my companions, close to the residence of a Portuguese who rejoiced + in the name of William Tell, and who lived here in spite of the + prohibition of the government. We were using the water of a pond, and this + gentleman, having come to invite me to dinner, drank a little of it, and + caught fever in consequence. If malarious matter existed in water, it + would have been a wonder had we escaped; for, traveling in the sun, with + the thermometer from 96 Degrees to 98 Degrees in the shade, the + evaporation from our bodies causing much thirst, we generally partook of + every water we came to. We had probably thus more disease than others + might suffer who had better shelter. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Tell remarked that his garden was rather barren, being still, as he + said, wild; but when more worked it would become better, though no manure + be applied. My men were busy collecting a better breed of fowls and + pigeons than those in their own country. Mr. Tell presented them with some + large specimens from Rio Janeiro. Of these they were wonderfully proud, + and bore the cock in triumph through the country of the Balonda, as + evidence of having been to the sea. But when at the village of Shinte, a + hyaena came into our midst when we were all sound asleep, and picked out + the giant in his basket from eighty-four others, and he was lost, to the + great grief of my men. The anxiety these people have always shown to + improve the breed of their domestic animals is, I think, a favorable point + in their character. On looking at the common breeds in the possession of + the Portuguese, which are merely native cattle, and seeing them slaughter + both heifer-calves and cows, which they themselves never do, and likewise + making no use of the milk, they concluded that the Portuguese must be an + inferior race of white men. They never ceased remarking on the fine ground + for gardens over which we were passing; and when I happened to mention + that most of the flour which the Portuguese consumed came from another + country, they exclaimed, "Are they ignorant of tillage?" "They know + nothing but buying and selling: they are not men." I hope it may reach the + ears of my Angolese friends, and that they may be stirred up to develop + the resources of their fine country. + </p> + <p> + On coming back to Cypriano's village on the 28th, we found that his + step-father had died after we had passed, and, according to the custom of + the country, he had spent more than his patrimony in funeral orgies. He + acted with his wonted kindness, though, unfortunately, drinking has got + him so deeply in debt that he now keeps out of the way of his creditors. + He informed us that the source of the Quango is eight days, or one hundred + miles, to the south of this, and in a range called Mosamba, in the country + of the Basongo. We can see from this a sort of break in the high land + which stretches away round to Tala Mongongo, through which the river + comes. + </p> + <p> + A death had occurred in a village about a mile off, and the people were + busy beating drums and firing guns. The funeral rites are half festive, + half mourning, partaking somewhat of the character of an Irish wake. There + is nothing more heart-rending than their death wails. When the natives + turn their eyes to the future world, they have a view cheerless enough of + their own utter helplessness and hopelessness. They fancy themselves + completely in the power of the disembodied spirits, and look upon the + prospect of following them as the greatest of misfortunes. Hence they are + constantly deprecating the wrath of departed souls, believing that, if + they are appeased, there is no other cause of death but witchcraft, which + may be averted by charms. The whole of the colored population of Angola + are sunk in these gross superstitions, but have the opinion, + notwithstanding, that they are wiser in these matters than their white + neighbors. Each tribe has a consciousness of following its own best + interests in the best way. They are by no means destitute of that + self-esteem which is so common in other nations; yet they fear all manner + of phantoms, and have half-developed ideas and traditions of something or + other, they know not what. The pleasures of animal life are ever present + to their minds as the supreme good; and, but for the innumerable + invisibilities, they might enjoy their luxurious climate as much as it is + possible for man to do. I have often thought, in traveling through their + land, that it presents pictures of beauty which angels might enjoy. How + often have I beheld, in still mornings, scenes the very essence of beauty, + and all bathed in a quiet air of delicious warmth! yet the occasional soft + motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness as of a fan. Green grassy + meadows, the cattle feeding, the goats browsing, the kids skipping, the + groups of herd-boys with miniature bows, arrows, and spears; the women + wending their way to the river with watering-pots poised jauntily on their + heads; men sewing under the shady banians; and old gray-headed fathers + sitting on the ground, with staff in hand, listening to the morning + gossip, while others carry trees or branches to repair their hedges; and + all this, flooded with the bright African sunshine, and the birds singing + among the branches before the heat of the day has become intense, form + pictures which can never be forgotten. + </p> + <p> + We were informed that a chief named Gando, living on the other side of the + river, having been accused of witchcraft, was killed by the ordeal, and + his body thrown into the Quango. + </p> + <p> + The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but received six thankfully. + The canoes were wretched, carrying only two persons at a time; but my men + being well acquainted with the water, we all got over in about two hours + and a half. They excited the admiration of the inhabitants by the manner + in which they managed the cattle and donkeys in crossing. The most + stubborn of beasts found himself powerless in their hands. Five or six, + seizing hold on one, bundled him at once into the stream, and, in this + predicament, he always thought it best policy to give in and swim. The men + sometimes swam along with the cattle, and forced them to go on by dashing + water at their heads. The difference between my men and those of the + native traders who accompanied us was never more apparent than now; for, + while my men felt an interest in every thing we possessed in common, + theirs were rather glad when the oxen refused to cross, for, being obliged + to slaughter them on such occasions, the loss to their masters was a + welcome feast to themselves. + </p> + <p> + On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without visiting our + friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence of some Ambakistas who + had crossed the river in order to secure the first chances of trade in + wax. I have before remarked on the knowledge of reading and writing that + these Ambakistas possess; they are famed for their love of all sorts of + learning within their reach, a knowledge of the history of Portugal, + Portuguese law, etc., etc. They are remarkably keen in trade, and are + sometimes called the Jews of Angola. They are employed as clerks and + writers, their feminine delicacy of constitution enabling them to write a + fine lady's hand, a kind of writing much esteemed among the Portuguese. + They are not physically equal to the European Portuguese, but possess + considerable ability; and it is said that half-castes, in the course of a + few generations, return to the black color of the maternal ancestor. The + black population of Angola has become much deteriorated. They are not so + strongly formed as the independent tribes. A large quantity of + aguardiente, an inferior kind of spirit, is imported into the country, + which is most injurious in its effects. We saw many parties carrying casks + of this baneful liquor to the independent chiefs beyond; and were informed + that it is difficult for any trader to convey it far, carriers being in + the habit of helping themselves by means of a straw, and then injecting an + equal amount of water when near the point of delivery. To prevent this, it + is common to see large demijohns with padlocks on the corks. These are + frequently stolen. In fact, the carriers are much addicted to both lying + and thieving, as might be expected from the lowest class of a people on + whom the debasing slave system has acted for two centuries. + </p> + <p> + The Bashinje, in whose country we now are, seem to possess more of the low + negro character and physiognomy than either the Balonda or Basongo; their + color is generally dirty black, foreheads low and compressed, noses flat + and much expanded laterally, though this is partly owing to the alae + spreading over the cheeks, by the custom of inserting bits of sticks or + reeds in the septum; their teeth are deformed by being filed to points; + their lips are large. They make a nearer approach to a general negro + appearance than any tribes I met; but I did not notice this on my way + down. They cultivate pretty largely, and rely upon their agricultural + products for their supplies of salt, flesh, tobacco, etc., from Bangalas. + Their clothing consists of pieces of skin, hung loosely from the girdle in + front and behind. They plait their hair fantastically. We saw some women + coming with their hair woven into the form of a European hat, and it was + only by a closer inspection that its nature was detected. Others had it + arranged in tufts, with a threefold cord along the ridge of each tuft; + while others, again, follow the ancient Egyptian fashion, having the whole + mass of wool plaited into cords, all hanging down as far as the shoulders. + This mode, with the somewhat Egyptian cast of countenance in other parts + of Londa, reminded me strongly of the paintings of that nation in the + British Museum. + </p> + <p> + We had now rain every day, and the sky seldom presented that cloudless + aspect and clear blue so common in the dry lands of the south. The heavens + are often overcast by large white motionless masses, which stand for hours + in the same position, and the intervening spaces are filled with a + milk-and-water-looking haze. Notwithstanding these unfavorable + circumstances, I obtained good observations for the longitude of this + important point on both sides of the Quango, and found the river running + in 9d 50' S. lat., 18d 33' E. long. + </p> + <p> + On proceeding to our former station near Sansawe's village, he ran to meet + us with wonderful urbanity, asking if we had seen Moene Put, king of the + white men (or Portuguese); and added, on parting, that he would come to + receive his dues in the evening. I replied that, as he had treated us so + scurvily, even forbidding his people to sell us any food, if he did not + bring us a fowl and some eggs as part of his duty as a chief, he should + receive no present from me. When he came, it was in the usual Londa way of + showing the exalted position he occupies, mounted on the shoulders of his + spokesman, as schoolboys sometimes do in England, and as was represented + to have been the case in the southern islands when Captain Cook visited + them. My companions, amused at his idea of dignity, greeted him with a + hearty laugh. He visited the native traders first, and then came to me + with two cocks as a present. I spoke to him about the impolicy of + treatment we had received at his hands, and quoted the example of the + Bangalas, who had been conquered by the Portuguese, for their extortionate + demands of payment for firewood, grass, water, etc., and concluded by + denying his right to any payment for simply passing through uncultivated + land. To all this he agreed; and then I gave him, as a token of + friendship, a pannikin of coarse powder, two iron spoons, and two yards of + coarse printed calico. He looked rather saucily at these articles, for he + had just received a barrel containing 18 lbs. of powder, 24 yards of + calico, and two bottles of brandy, from Senhor Pascoal the Pombeiro. Other + presents were added the next day, but we gave nothing more; and the + Pombeiros informed me that it was necessary to give largely, because they + are accompanied by slaves and carriers who are no great friends to their + masters; and if they did not secure the friendship of these petty chiefs, + many slaves and their loads might be stolen while passing through the + forests. It is thus a sort of black-mail that these insignificant chiefs + levy; and the native traders, in paying, do so simply as a bribe to keep + them honest. This chief was a man of no power, but in our former ignorance + of this he plagued us a whole day in passing. + </p> + <p> + Finding the progress of Senhor Pascoal and the other Pombeiros excessively + slow, I resolved to forego his company to Cabango after I had delivered to + him some letters to be sent back to Cassange. I went forward with the + intention of finishing my writing, and leaving a packet for him at some + village. We ascended the eastern acclivity that bounds the Cassange + valley, which has rather a gradual ascent up from the Quango, and we found + that the last ascent, though apparently not quite so high as that at Tala + Mungongo, is actually much higher. The top is about 5000 feet above the + level of the sea, and the bottom 3500 feet; water boiling on the heights + at 202 Deg., the thermometer in the air showing 96 Deg.; and at the bottom + at 205 Deg., the air being 75 Deg. We had now gained the summit of the + western subtending ridge, and began to descend toward the centre of the + country, hoping soon to get out of the Chiboque territory, which, when we + ascended from the Cassange valley, we had entered; but, on the 19th of + April, the intermittent, which had begun on the 16th of March, was changed + into an extremely severe attack of rheumatic fever. This was brought on by + being obliged to sleep on an extensive plain covered with water. The rain + poured down incessantly, but we formed our beds by dragging up the earth + into oblong mounds, somewhat like graves in a country church-yard, and + then placing grass upon them. The rain continuing to deluge us, we were + unable to leave for two days, but as soon as it became fair we continued + our march. The heavy dew upon the high grass was so cold as to cause + shivering, and I was forced to lie by for eight days, tossing and groaning + with violent pain in the head. This was the most severe attack I had + endured. It made me quite unfit to move, or even know what was passing + outside my little tent. Senhor Pascoal, who had been detained by the + severe rain at a better spot, at last came up, and, knowing that leeches + abounded in the rivulets, procured a number, and applied some dozens to + the nape of the neck and the loins. This partially relieved the pain. He + was then obliged to move forward, in order to purchase food for his large + party. After many days I began to recover, and wished to move on, but my + men objected to the attempt on account of my weakness. When Senhor Pascoal + had been some time at the village in front, as he had received + instructions from his employer, Captain Neves, to aid me as much as + possible, and being himself a kindly-disposed person, he sent back two + messengers to invite me to come on, if practicable. + </p> + <p> + It happened that the head man of the village where I had lain twenty-two + days, while bargaining and quarreling in my camp for a piece of meat, had + been struck on the mouth by one of my men. My principal men paid five + pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement; but the more they yielded, the + more exorbitant he became, and he sent word to all the surrounding + villages to aid him in avenging the affront of a blow on the beard. As + their courage usually rises with success, I resolved to yield no more, and + departed. In passing through a forest in the country beyond, we were + startled by a body of men rushing after us. They began by knocking down + the burdens of the hindermost of my men, and several shots were fired, + each party spreading out on both sides of the path. I fortunately had a + six-barreled revolver, which my friend Captain Henry Need, of her + majesty's brig "Linnet", had considerately sent to Golungo Alto after my + departure from Loanda. Taking this in my hand, and forgetting fever, I + staggered quickly along the path with two or three of my men, and + fortunately encountered the chief. The sight of the six barrels gaping + into his stomach, with my own ghastly visage looking daggers at his face, + seemed to produce an instant revolution in his martial feelings, for he + cried out, "Oh! I have only come to speak to you, and wish peace only." + Mashauana had hold of him by the hand, and found him shaking. We examined + his gun, and found that it had been discharged. Both parties crowded up to + their chiefs. One of the opposite party coming too near, one of mine drove + him back with a battle-axe. The enemy protested their amicable intentions, + and my men asserted the fact of having the goods knocked down as evidence + of the contrary. Without waiting long, I requested all to sit down, and + Pitsane, placing his hand upon the revolver, somewhat allayed their fears. + I then said to the chief, "If you have come with peaceable intentions, we + have no other; go away home to your village." He replied, "I am afraid + lest you shoot me in the back." I rejoined, "If I wanted to kill you, I + could shoot you in the face as well." Mosantu called out to me, "That's + only a Makalaka trick; don't give him your back." But I said, "Tell him to + observe that I am not afraid of him;" and, turning, mounted my ox. There + was not much danger in the fire that was opened at first, there being so + many trees. The enemy probably expected that the sudden attack would make + us forsake our goods, and allow them to plunder with ease. The villagers + were no doubt pleased with being allowed to retire unscathed, and we were + also glad to get away without having shed a drop of blood, or having + compromised ourselves for any future visit. My men were delighted with + their own bravery, and made the woods ring with telling each other how + "brilliant their conduct before the enemy" would have been, had + hostilities not been brought to a sudden close. + </p> + <p> + I do not mention this little skirmish as a very frightful affair. The + negro character in these parts, and in Angola, is essentially cowardly, + except when influenced by success. A partial triumph over any body of men + would induce the whole country to rise in arms, and this is the chief + danger to be feared. These petty chiefs have individually but little + power, and with my men, now armed with guns, I could have easily beaten + them off singly; but, being of the same family, they would readily unite + in vast numbers if incited by prospects of successful plunder. They are by + no means equal to the Cape Caffres in any respect whatever. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we came to Moena Kikanje, and found him a sensible man. He + is the last of the Chiboque chiefs in this direction, and is in alliance + with Matiamvo, whose territory commences a short distance beyond. His + village is placed on the east bank of the Quilo, which is here twenty + yards wide, and breast deep. + </p> + <p> + The country was generally covered with forest, and we slept every night at + some village. I was so weak, and had become so deaf from the effects of + the fever, that I was glad to avail myself of the company of Senhor + Pascoal and the other native traders. Our rate of traveling was only two + geographical miles per hour, and the average number of hours three and a + half per day, or seven miles. Two thirds of the month was spent in + stoppages, there being only ten traveling days in each month. The + stoppages were caused by sickness, and the necessity of remaining in + different parts to purchase food; and also because, when one carrier was + sick, the rest refused to carry his load. + </p> + <p> + One of the Pombeiros had eight good-looking women in a chain whom he was + taking to the country of Matiamvo to sell for ivory. They always looked + ashamed when I happened to come near them, and must have felt keenly their + forlorn and degraded position. I believe they were captives taken from the + rebel Cassanges. The way in which slaves are spoken of in Angola and + eastern Africa must sound strangely even to the owners when they first + come from Europe. In Angola the common appellation is "o diabo", or + "brutu"; and it is quite usual to hear gentlemen call out, "O diabo! bring + fire." In eastern Africa, on the contrary, they apply the term "bicho" (an + animal), and you hear the phrase, "Call the ANIMAL to do this or that." In + fact, slave-owners come to regard their slaves as not human, and will + curse them as the "race of a dog". Most of the carriers of my traveling + companions were hired Basongo, and required constant vigilance to prevent + them stealing the goods they carried. Salt, which is one of the chief + articles conveyed into the country, became considerably lighter as we went + along, but the carriers shielded themselves by saying that it had been + melted by the rain. Their burdens were taken from them every evening, and + placed in security under the guardianship of Senhor Pascoal's own slaves. + It was pitiable to observe the worrying life he led. There was the + greatest contrast possible between the conduct of his people and that of + my faithful Makololo. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the Loange, a deep but narrow stream, by a bridge. It becomes + much larger, and contains hippopotami, lower down. It is the boundary of + Londa on the west. We slept also on the banks of the Pezo, now flooded, + and could not but admire their capabilities for easy irrigation. On + reaching the River Chikapa (lat. 10d 10' S., long. 19d 42' E.), the 25th + of March, we found it fifty or sixty yards wide, and flowing E.N.E. into + the Kasai. The adjacent country is of the same level nature as that part + of Londa formerly described; but, having come farther to the eastward than + our previous course, we found that all the rivers had worn for themselves + much deeper valleys than at the points we had formerly crossed them. + </p> + <p> + Surrounded on all sides by large gloomy forests, the people of these parts + have a much more indistinct idea of the geography of their country than + those who live in hilly regions. It was only after long and patient + inquiry that I became fully persuaded that the Quilo runs into the + Chikapa. As we now crossed them both considerably farther down, and were + greatly to the eastward of our first route, there can be no doubt that + these rivers take the same course as the others, into the Kasai, and that + I had been led into a mistake in saying that any of them flowed to the + westward. Indeed, it was only at this time that I began to perceive that + all the western feeders of the Kasai, except the Quango, flow first from + the western side toward the centre of the country, then gradually turn, + with the Kasai itself, to the north; and, after the confluence of the + Kasai with the Quango, an immense body of water, collected from all these + branches, finds its way out of the country by means of the River Congo or + Zaire on the west coast. + </p> + <p> + The people living along the path we are now following were quite + accustomed to the visits of native traders, and did not feel in any way + bound to make presents of food except for the purpose of cheating: thus, a + man gave me a fowl and some meal, and, after a short time, returned. I + offered him a handsome present of beads; but these he declined, and + demanded a cloth instead, which was far more than the value of his gift. + They did the same with my men, until we had to refuse presents altogether. + Others made high demands because I slept in a "house of cloth", and must + be rich. They seemed to think that they had a perfect right to payment for + simply passing through the country. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the Chikapa we crossed the Kamaue, a small deep stream proceeding + from the S.S.W., and flowing into the Chikapa. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th of April we reached the Loajima, where we had to form a bridge + to effect our passage. This was not so difficult an operation as some + might imagine; for a tree was growing in a horizontal position across part + of the stream, and, there being no want of the tough climbing plants which + admit of being knitted like ropes, Senhor P. soon constructed a bridge. + The Loajima was here about twenty-five yards wide, but very much deeper + than where I had crossed before on the shoulders of Mashauana. The last + rain of this season had fallen on the 28th, and had suddenly been followed + by a great decrease of the temperature. The people in these parts seemed + more slender in form, and their color a lighter olive, than any we had + hitherto met. The mode of dressing the great masses of woolly hair which + lay upon their shoulders, together with their general features, again + reminded me of the ancient Egyptians. Several were seen with the upward + inclination of the outer angles of the eye, but this was not general. A + few of the ladies adopt a curious custom of attaching the hair to a hoop + which encircles the head, giving it somewhat the appearance of the glory + round the head of the Virgin (wood-cut No. 1*). Some have a small hoop + behind that represented in the wood-cut. Others wear an ornament of woven + hair and hide adorned with beads. The hair of the tails of buffaloes, + which are to be found farther east, is sometimes added. This is + represented in No. 2. While others, as in No. 3, weave their own hair on + pieces of hide into the form of buffalo horns; or, as in No. 4, make a + single horn in front. The features given are frequently met with, but they + are by no means universal. Many tattoo their bodies by inserting some + black substance beneath the skin, which leaves an elevated cicatrix about + half an inch long: these are made in the form of stars, and other figures + of no particular beauty. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately these wood-cuts can not be represented in this + ASCII text. + + No. 1 appears like a wheel with spokes of hair + connecting it to the head. + + No. 2 appears somewhat like a tiara sloped forward, as the bow + of a ship. + + No. 3 appears like gently curving horns. There is a part in + the middle, and the hair, on leather frames, curls outward and + upward at the temples. + + No. 4 is likewise, but the single horn curves outward and + upward from the forehead—it is labelled "A Young Man's + Fashion". Except for No. 1, all are represented as having the + rest of their hair hanging in braids around the sides and + back. All of the faces, as Livingstone asserts, appear much + like paintings of ancient Egyptians, and could easily be + European except for the shading and the slanted eyes. They are + all handsome.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 23. + </h2> + <p> + Make a Detour southward—Peculiarities of the Inhabitants—Scarcity + of Animals—Forests—Geological Structure of the Country—Abundance + and Cheapness of Food near the Chihombo—A Slave lost—The + Makololo Opinion of Slaveholders—Funeral Obsequies in Cabango—Send + a Sketch of the Country to Mr. Gabriel—Native Information respecting + the Kasai and Quango—The Trade with Luba—Drainage of Londa—Report + of Matiamvo's Country and Government—Senhor Faria's Present to a + Chief—The Balonda Mode of spending Time—Faithless Guide—Makololo + lament the Ignorance of the Balonda—Eagerness of the Villagers for + Trade—Civility of a Female Chief—The Chief Bango and his + People—Refuse to eat Beef—Ambition of Africans to have a + Village—Winters in the Interior—Spring at Kolobeng—White + Ants: "Never could desire to eat any thing better"—Young Herbage and + Animals—Valley of the Loembwe— The white Man a Hobgoblin—Specimen + of Quarreling—Eager Desire for Calico—Want of Clothing at + Kawawa's—Funeral Observances—Agreeable Intercourse with Kawawa—His + impudent Demand—Unpleasant Parting—Kawawa tries to prevent our + crossing the River Kasai—Stratagem. + </p> + <p> + We made a little detour to the southward in order to get provisions in a + cheaper market. This led us along the rivulet called Tamba, where we found + the people, who had not been visited so frequently by the slave-traders as + the rest, rather timid and very civil. It was agreeable to get again among + the uncontaminated, and to see the natives look at us without that air of + superciliousness which is so unpleasant and common in the beaten track. + The same olive color prevailed. They file their teeth to a point, which + makes the smile of the women frightful, as it reminds one of the grin of + an alligator. The inhabitants throughout this country exhibit as great a + variety of taste as appears on the surface of society among ourselves. + Many of the men are dandies; their shoulders are always wet with the oil + dropping from their lubricated hair, and every thing about them is + ornamented in one way or another. Some thrum a musical instrument the + livelong day, and, when they wake at night, proceed at once to their + musical performance. Many of these musicians are too poor to have iron + keys to their instrument, but make them of bamboo, and persevere, though + no one hears the music but themselves. Others try to appear warlike by + never going out of their huts except with a load of bows and arrows, or a + gun ornamented with a strip of hide for every animal they have shot; and + others never go any where without a canary in a cage. Ladies may be seen + carefully tending little lap-dogs, which are intended to be eaten. Their + villages are generally in forests, and composed of groups of + irregularly-planted brown huts, with banana and cotton trees, and tobacco + growing around. There is also at every hut a high stage erected for drying + manioc roots and meal, and elevated cages to hold domestic fowls. Round + baskets are laid on the thatch of the huts for the hens to lay in, and on + the arrival of strangers, men, women, and children ply their calling as + hucksters with a great deal of noisy haggling; all their transactions are + conducted with civil banter and good temper. + </p> + <p> + My men, having the meat of the oxen which we slaughtered from time to time + for sale, were entreated to exchange it for meal; no matter how small the + pieces offered were, it gave them pleasure to deal. + </p> + <p> + The landscape around is green, with a tint of yellow, the grass long, the + paths about a foot wide, and generally worn deeply in the middle. The tall + overhanging grass, when brushed against by the feet and legs, disturbed + the lizards and mice, and occasionally a serpent, causing a rustling among + the herbage. There are not many birds; every animal is entrapped and + eaten. Gins are seen on both sides of the path every ten or fifteen yards, + for miles together. The time and labor required to dig up moles and mice + from their burrows would, if applied to cultivation, afford food for any + amount of fowls or swine, but the latter are seldom met with. + </p> + <p> + We passed on through forests abounding in climbing-plants, many of which + are so extremely tough that a man is required to go in front with a + hatchet; and when the burdens of the carriers are caught, they are obliged + to cut the climbers with their teeth, for no amount of tugging will make + them break. The paths in all these forests are so zigzag that a person may + imagine he has traveled a distance of thirty miles, which, when reckoned + as the crow flies, may not be fifteen. + </p> + <p> + We reached the River Moamba (lat. 9d 38' S., long. 20d 13' 34" E.) on the + 7th May. This is a stream of thirty yards wide, and, like the Quilo, + Loange, Chikapa, and Loajima, contains both alligators and hippopotami. We + crossed it by means of canoes. Here, as on the slopes down to the Quilo + and Chikapa, we had an opportunity of viewing the geological structure of + the country—a capping of ferruginous conglomerate, which in many + parts looks as if it had been melted, for the rounded nodules resemble + masses of slag, and they have a smooth scale on the surface; but in all + probability it is an aqueous deposit, for it contains water-worn pebbles + of all sorts, and generally small. Below this mass lies a pale red + hardened sandstone, and beneath that a trap-like whinstone. Lowest of all + lies a coarse-grained sandstone containing a few pebbles, and, in + connection with it, a white calcareous rock is occasionally met with, and + so are banks of loose round quartz pebbles. The slopes are longer from the + level country above the further we go eastward, and every where we meet + with circumscribed bogs on them, surrounded by clumps of straight, lofty + evergreen trees, which look extremely graceful on a ground of yellowish + grass. Several of these bogs pour forth a solution of iron, which exhibits + on its surface the prismatic colors. The level plateaus between the + rivers, both east and west of the Moamba, across which we traveled, were + less woody than the river glens. The trees on them are scraggy and wide + apart. There are also large open grass-covered spaces, with scarcely even + a bush. On these rather dreary intervals between the rivers it was + impossible not to be painfully struck with the absence of all animal life. + Not a bird was to be seen, except occasionally a tomtit, some of the + 'Sylviadae' and 'Drymoica', also a black bird ('Dicrurus Ludwigii', Smith) + common throughout the country. We were gladdened by the voice of birds + only near the rivers, and there they are neither numerous nor varied. The + Senegal longclaw, however, maintains its place, and is the largest bird + seen. We saw a butcher-bird in a trap as we passed. There are remarkably + few small animals, they having been hunted almost to extermination, and + few insects except ants, which abound in considerable number and variety. + There are scarcely any common flies to be seen, nor are we ever troubled + by mosquitoes. + </p> + <p> + The air is still, hot, and oppressive; the intensely bright sunlight + glances peacefully on the evergreen forest leaves, and all feel glad when + the path comes into the shade. The want of life in the scenery made me + long to tread again the banks of the Zambesi, and see the graceful + antelopes feeding beside the dark buffaloes and sleek elands. Here + hippopotami are known to exist only by their footprints on the banks. Not + one is ever seen to blow or put his head up at all; they have learned to + breathe in silence and keep out of sight. We never heard one uttering the + snorting sound so common on the Zambesi. + </p> + <p> + We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Fombeji, before reaching + Cabango, a village situated on the banks of the Chihombo. The country was + becoming more densely peopled as we proceeded, but it bears no population + compared to what it might easily sustain. Provisions were to be had in + great abundance; a fowl and basket of meal weighing 20 lbs. were sold for + a yard and a half of very inferior cotton cloth, worth not more than + threepence. An idea of the cheapness of food may be formed from the fact + that Captain Neves purchased 380 lbs. of tobacco from the Bangalas for + about two pounds sterling. This, when carried into central Londa, might + purchase seven thousand five hundred fowls, or feed with meal and fowls + seven thousand persons for one day, giving each a fowl and 5 lbs. of meal. + When food is purchased here with either salt or coarse calico, four + persons can be well fed with animal and vegetable food at the rate of one + penny a day. The chief vegetable food is the manioc and lotsa meal. These + contain a very large proportion of starch, and, when eaten alone for any + length of time produce most distressing heartburn. As we ourselves + experienced in coming north, they also cause a weakness of vision, which + occurs in the case of animals fed on pure gluten or amylaceous matter + only. I now discovered that when these starchy substances are eaten along + with a proportion of ground-nuts, which contain a considerable quantity of + oil, no injurious effects follow. + </p> + <p> + While on the way to Cabango we saw fresh tracks of elands, the first we + had observed in this country. A poor little slave girl, being ill, turned + aside in the path, and, though we waited all the next day making search + for her, she was lost. She was tall and slender for her age, as if of too + quick growth, and probably, unable to bear the fatigue of the march, lay + down and slept in the forest, then, waking in the dark, went farther and + farther astray. The treatment of the slaves witnessed by my men certainly + did not raise slaveholders in their estimation. Their usual exclamation + was "Ga ba na pelu" (They have no heart); and they added, with reference + to the slaves, "Why do they let them?" as if they thought that the slaves + had the natural right to rid the world of such heartless creatures, and + ought to do it. The uneasiness of the trader was continually showing + itself, and, upon the whole, he had reason to be on the alert both day and + night. The carriers perpetually stole the goods intrusted to their care, + and he could not openly accuse them, lest they should plunder him of all, + and leave him quite in the lurch. He could only hope to manage them after + getting all the remaining goods safely into a house in Cabango; he might + then deduct something from their pay for what they had purloined on the + way. + </p> + <p> + Cabango (lat. 9d 31' S., long. 20d 31' or 32' E.) is the dwelling-place of + Muanzanza, one of Matiamvo's subordinate chiefs. His village consists of + about two hundred huts and ten or twelve square houses, constructed of + poles with grass interwoven. The latter are occupied by half-caste + Portuguese from Ambaca, agents for the Cassange traders. The cold in the + mornings was now severe to the feelings, the thermometer ranging from 58 + Deg. to 60 Deg., though, when protected, sometimes standing as high as 64 + Deg. at six A.M. When the sun is well up, the thermometer in the shade + rises to 80 Deg., and in the evenings it is about 78 Deg. + </p> + <p> + A person having died in this village, we could transact no business with + the chief until the funeral obsequies were finished. These occupy about + four days, during which there is a constant succession of dancing, + wailing, and feasting. Guns are fired by day, and drums beaten by night, + and all the relatives, dressed in fantastic caps, keep up the ceremonies + with spirit proportionate to the amount of beer and beef expended. When + there is a large expenditure, the remark is often made afterward, "What a + fine funeral that was!" A figure, consisting chiefly of feathers and + beads, is paraded on these occasions, and seems to be regarded as an idol. + </p> + <p> + Having met with an accident to one of my eyes by a blow from a branch in + passing through a forest, I remained some days here, endeavoring, though + with much pain, to draw a sketch of the country thus far, to be sent back + to Mr. Gabriel at Loanda. I was always anxious to transmit an account of + my discoveries on every possible occasion, lest, any thing happening in + the country to which I was going, they should be entirely lost. I also + fondly expected a packet of letters and papers which my good angel at + Loanda would be sure to send if they came to hand, but I afterward found + that, though he had offered a large sum to any one who would return with + an assurance of having delivered the last packet he sent, no one followed + me with it to Cabango. The unwearied attentions of this good Englishman, + from his first welcome to me when, a weary, dejected, and worn-down + stranger, I arrived at his residence, and his whole subsequent conduct, + will be held in lively remembrance by me to my dying day. + </p> + <p> + Several of the native traders here having visited the country of Luba, + lying far to the north of this, and there being some visitors also from + the town of Mai, which is situated far down the Kasai, I picked up some + information respecting those distant parts. In going to the town of Mai + the traders crossed only two large rivers, the Loajima and Chihombo. The + Kasai flows a little to the east of the town of Mai, and near it there is + a large waterfall. They describe the Kasai as being there of very great + size, and that it thence bends round to the west. On asking an old man, + who was about to return to his chief Mai, to imagine himself standing at + his home, and point to the confluence of the Quango and Kasai, he + immediately turned, and, pointing to the westward, said, "When we travel + five days (thirty-five or forty miles) in that direction, we come to it." + He stated also that the Kasai received another river, named the Lubilash. + There is but one opinion among the Balonda respecting the Kasai and + Quango. They invariably describe the Kasai as receiving the Quango, and, + beyond the confluence, assuming the name of Zaire or Zerezere. And the + Kasai, even previous to the junction, is much larger than the Quango, from + the numerous branches it receives. Besides those we have already crossed, + there is the Chihombo at Cabango; and forty-two miles beyond this, + eastward, runs the Kasai itself; fourteen miles beyond that, the + Kaunguesi; then, forty-two miles farther east, flows the Lolua; besides + numbers of little streams, all of which contribute to swell the Kasai. + </p> + <p> + About thirty-four miles east of the Lolua, or a hundred and thirty-two + miles E.N.E. of Cabango, stands the town of Matiamvo, the paramount chief + of all the Balonda. The town of Mai is pointed out as to the N.N.W. of + Cabango, and thirty-two days or two hundred and twenty-four miles distant, + or about lat. S. 5d 45'. The chief town of Luba, another independent + chief, is eight days farther in the same direction, or lat. S. 4d 50'. + Judging from the appearance of the people who had come for the purposes of + trade from Mai, those in the north are in quite as uncivilized a condition + as the Balonda. They are clad in a kind of cloth made of the inner bark of + a tree. Neither guns nor native traders are admitted into the country, the + chief of Luba entertaining a dread of innovation. If a native trader goes + thither, he must dress like the common people in Angola, in a loose robe + resembling a kilt. The chief trades in shells and beads only. His people + kill the elephants by means of spears, poisoned arrows, and traps. All + assert that elephants' tusks from that country are heavier and of greater + length than any others. + </p> + <p> + It is evident, from all the information I could collect both here and + elsewhere, that the drainage of Londa falls to the north and then runs + westward. The countries of Luba and Mai are evidently lower than this, and + yet this is of no great altitude—probably not much more than 3500 + feet above the level of the sea. Having here received pretty certain + information on a point in which I felt much interest, namely, that the + Kasai is not navigable from the coast, owing to the large waterfall near + the town of Mai, and that no great kingdom exists in the region beyond, + between this and the equator, I would fain have visited Matiamvo. This + seemed a very desirable step, as it is good policy as well as right to + acknowledge the sovereign of a country; and I was assured, both by Balonda + and native traders, that a considerable branch of the Zambesi rises in the + country east of his town, and flows away to the south. The whole of this + branch, extending down even to where it turns westward to Masiko, is + probably placed too far eastward on the map. It was put down when I + believed Matiamvo and Cazembe to be farther east than I have since seen + reason to believe them. All, being derived from native testimony, is + offered to the reader with diffidence, as needing verification by actual + explorers. The people of that part, named Kanyika and Kanyoka, living on + its banks, are represented as both numerous and friendly, but Matiamvo + will on no account permit any white person to visit them, as his principal + supplies of ivory are drawn from them. Thinking that we might descend this + branch of the Zambesi to Masiko, and thence to the Barotse, I felt a + strong inclination to make the attempt. The goods, however, we had brought + with us to pay our way, had, by the long detention from fever and weakness + in both myself and men, dwindled to a mere fragment; and, being but + slightly acquainted with the Balonda dialect, I felt that I could neither + use persuasion nor presents to effect my object. From all I could hear of + Matiamvo, there was no chance of my being allowed to proceed through his + country to the southward. If I had gone merely to visit him, all the goods + would have been expended by the time I returned to Cabango; and we had not + found mendicity so pleasant on our way to the north as to induce us to + desire to return to it. + </p> + <p> + The country of Matiamvo is said to be well peopled, but they have little + or no trade. They receive calico, salt, gunpowder, coarse earthenware, and + beads, and give in return ivory and slaves. They possess no cattle, + Matiamvo alone having a single herd, which he keeps entirely for the sake + of the flesh. The present chief is said to be mild in his government, and + will depose an under-chief for unjust conduct. He occasionally sends the + distance of a hundred miles or more to behead an offending officer. But, + though I was informed by the Portuguese that he possesses absolute power, + his name had less influence over his subjects with whom I came in contact + than that of Sekeletu has over his people living at a much greater + distance from the capital. + </p> + <p> + As we thought it best to strike away to the S.E. from Cabango to our old + friend Katema, I asked a guide from Muanzanza as soon as the funeral + proceedings were over. He agreed to furnish one, and also accepted a + smaller present from me than usual, when it was represented to him by + Pascoal and Faria that I was not a trader. He seemed to regard these + presents as his proper dues; and as a cargo of goods had come by Senhor + Pascoal, he entered the house for the purpose of receiving his share, when + Senhor Faria gravely presented him with the commonest earthenware vessel, + of which great numbers are brought for this trade. The chief received it + with expressions of abundant gratitude, as these vessels are highly + valued, because from their depth they can hold so much food or beer. The + association of ideas is sometimes so very ludicrous that it is difficult + to maintain one's gravity. + </p> + <p> + Several of the children of the late Matiamvo came to beg from me, but + never to offer any food. Having spoken to one young man named Liula + (Heavens) about their stinginess, he soon brought bananas and manioc. I + liked his appearance and conversation, and believe that the Balonda would + not be difficult to teach, but their mode of life would be a drawback. The + Balonda in this quarter are much more agreeable-looking than any of the + inhabitants nearer the coast. The women allow their teeth to remain in + their beautifully white state, and would be comely but for the custom of + inserting pieces of reed into the cartilage of the nose. They seem + generally to be in good spirits, and spend their time in everlasting talk, + funeral ceremonies, and marriages. This flow of animal spirits must be one + reason why they are such an indestructible race. The habitual influence on + their minds of the agency of unseen spirits may have a tendency in the + same direction, by preserving the mental quietude of a kind of fatalism. + </p> + <p> + We were forced to prepay our guide and his father too, and he went but one + day, although he promised to go with us to Katema. He was not in the least + ashamed at breaking his engagements, and probably no disgrace will be + attached to the deed by Muanzanza. Among the Bakwains he would have been + punished. My men would have stripped him of the wages which he wore on his + person, but thought that, as we had always acted on the mildest + principles, they would let him move off with his unearned gains. + </p> + <p> + They frequently lamented the want of knowledge in these people, saying, in + their own tongue, "Ah! they don't know that we are men as well as they, + and that we are only bearing with their insolence with patience because we + are men." Then would follow a hearty curse, showing that the patience was + nearly expended; but they seldom quarreled in the language of the Balonda. + The only one who ever lost his temper was the man who struck a head man of + one of the villages on the mouth, and he was the most abject individual in + our company. + </p> + <p> + The reason why we needed a guide at all was to secure the convenience of a + path, which, though generally no better than a sheep-walk, is much easier + than going straight in one direction, through tangled forests and tropical + vegetation. We knew the general direction we ought to follow, and also if + any deviation occurred from our proper route; but, to avoid impassable + forests and untreadable bogs, and to get to the proper fords of the + rivers, we always tried to procure a guide, and he always followed the + common path from one village to another when that lay in the direction we + were going. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Cabango on the 21st, we crossed several little streams + running into the Chihombo on our left, and in one of them I saw tree ferns + ('Cyathea dregei') for the first time in Africa. The trunk was about four + feet high and ten inches in diameter. We saw also grass trees of two + varieties, which, in damp localities, had attained a height of forty feet. + On crossing the Chihombo, which we did about twelve miles above Cabango, + we found it waist-deep and rapid. We were delighted to see the evidences + of buffalo and hippopotami on its banks. As soon as we got away from the + track of the slave-traders, the more kindly spirit of the southern Balonda + appeared, for an old man brought a large present of food from one of the + villages, and volunteered to go as guide himself. The people, however, of + the numerous villages which we passed always made efforts to detain us, + that they might have a little trade in the way of furnishing our suppers. + At one village, indeed, they would not show us the path at all unless we + remained at least a day with them. Having refused, we took a path in the + direction we ought to go, but it led us into an inextricable thicket. + Returning to the village again, we tried another footpath in a similar + direction, but this led us into an equally impassable and trackless + forest. We were thus forced to come back and remain. In the following + morning they put us in the proper path, which in a few hours led us + through a forest that would otherwise have taken us days to penetrate. + </p> + <p> + Beyond this forest we found the village of Nyakalonga, a sister of the + late Matiamvo, who treated us handsomely. She wished her people to guide + us to the next village, but this they declined unless we engaged in trade. + She then requested us to wait an hour or two till she could get ready a + present of meal, manioc roots, ground-nuts, and a fowl. It was truly + pleasant to meet with people possessing some civility, after the hauteur + we had experienced on the slave-path. She sent her son to the next village + without requiring payment. The stream which ran past her village was quite + impassable there, and for a distance of about a mile on either side, the + bog being soft and shaky, and, when the crust was broken through, about + six feet deep. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th we reached the village of the chief Bango (lat. 12d 22' 53" + S., long. 20d 58' E.), who brought us a handsome present of meal, and the + meat of an entire pallah. We here slaughtered the last of the cows + presented to us by Mr. Schut, which I had kept milked until it gave only a + teaspoonful at a time. My men enjoyed a hearty laugh when they found that + I had given up all hope of more, for they had been talking among + themselves about my perseverance. We offered a leg of the cow to Bango, + but he informed us that neither he nor his people ever partook of beef, as + they looked upon cattle as human, and living at home like men. None of his + people purchased any of the meat, which was always eagerly done every + where else. There are several other tribes who refuse to keep cattle, + though not to eat them when offered by others, because, say they, oxen + bring enemies and war; but this is the first instance I have met with in + which they have been refused as food. The fact of killing the pallahs for + food shows that the objection does not extend to meat in general. + </p> + <p> + The little streams in this part of the country did not flow in deep dells, + nor were we troubled with the gigantic grasses which annoyed our eyes on + the slopes of the streams before we came to Cabango. The country was quite + flat, and the people cultivated manioc very extensively. There is no large + collection of the inhabitants in any one spot. The ambition of each seems + to be to have his own little village; and we see many coming from distant + parts with the flesh of buffaloes and antelopes as the tribute claimed by + Bango. We have now entered again the country of the game, but they are so + exceedingly shy that we have not yet seen a single animal. The arrangement + into many villages pleases the Africans vastly, for every one who has a + few huts under him feels himself in some measure to be a chief. The + country at this time is covered with yellowish grass quite dry. Some of + the bushes and trees are green; others are shedding their leaves, the + young buds pushing off the old foliage. Trees, which in the south stand + bare during the winter months, have here but a short period of + leaflessness. Occasionally, however, a cold north wind comes up even as + far as Cabango, and spreads a wintry aspect on all the exposed vegetation. + The tender shoots of the evergreen trees on the south side become as if + scorched; the leaves of manioc, pumpkins, and other tender plants are + killed; while the same kinds, in spots sheltered by forests, continue + green through the whole year. All the interior of South Africa has a + distinct winter of cold, varying in intensity with the latitudes. In the + central parts of the Cape Colony the cold in the winter is often severe, + and the ground is covered with snow. At Kuruman snow seldom falls, but the + frost is keen. There is frost even as far as the Chobe, and a partial + winter in the Barotse valley, but beyond the Orange River we never have + cold and damp combined. Indeed, a shower of rain seldom or never falls + during winter, and hence the healthiness of the Bechuana climate. From the + Barotse valley northward it is questionable if it ever freezes; but, + during the prevalence of the south wind, the thermometer sinks as low as + 42 Deg., and conveys the impression of bitter cold. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can exceed the beauty of the change from the wintry appearance to + that of spring at Kolobeng. Previous to the commencement of the rains, an + easterly wind blows strongly by day, but dies away at night. The clouds + collect in increasing masses, and relieve in some measure the bright glare + of the southern sun. The wind dries up every thing, and when at its + greatest strength is hot, and raises clouds of dust. The general + temperature during the day rises above 96 Deg.: then showers begin to + fall; and if the ground is but once well soaked with a good day's rain, + the change produced is marvelous. In a day or two a tinge of green is + apparent all over the landscape, and in five or six days the fresh leaves + sprouting forth, and the young grass shooting up, give an appearance of + spring which it requires weeks of a colder climate to produce. The birds, + which in the hot, dry, windy season had been silent, now burst forth into + merry twittering songs, and are busy building their nests. Some of them, + indeed, hatch several times a year. The lowering of the temperature, by + rains or other causes, has much the same effect as the increasing mildness + of our own spring. The earth teems with myriads of young insects; in some + parts of the country hundreds of centipedes, myriapedes, and beetles + emerge from their hiding-places, somewhat as our snails at home do; and in + the evenings the white ants swarm by thousands. A stream of them is seen + to rush out of a hole, and, after flying one or two hundred yards, they + descend; and if they light upon a piece of soil proper for the + commencement of a new colony, they bend up their tails, unhook their + wings, and, leaving them on the surface, quickly begin their mining + operations. If an attempt is made to separate the wings from the body by + drawing them away backward, they seem as if hooked into the body, and tear + away large portions of the insect; but if turned forward, as the ant + itself does, they snap off with the greatest ease. Indeed, they seem + formed only to serve the insect in its short flight to a new habitation, + and then to be thrown aside. Nothing can exceed the eagerness with which, + at the proper time, they rush out from their birth-place. Occasionally + this occurs in a house, and then, in order to prevent every corner from + being filled with them, I have seen a fire placed over the orifice; but + they hesitate not even to pass through the fire. While swarming they + appear like snow-flakes floating about in the air, and dogs, cats, hawks, + and almost every bird, may be seen busily devouring them. The natives, + too, profit by the occasion, and actively collect them for food, they + being about half an inch long, as thick as a crow-quill, and very fat. + When roasted they are said to be good, and somewhat resemble grains of + boiled rice. An idea may be formed of this dish by what once occurred on + the banks of the Zouga. The Bayeiye chief Palani visiting us while eating, + I gave him a piece of bread and preserved apricots; and as he seemed to + relish it much, I asked him if he had any food equal to that in his + country. "Ah!" said he, "did you ever taste white ants?" As I never had, + he replied, "Well, if you had, you never could have desired to eat any + thing better." The general way of catching them is to dig into the + ant-hill, and wait till the builders come forth to repair the damage, then + brush them off quickly into a vessel, as the ant-eater does into his + mouth. + </p> + <p> + The fall of the rain makes all the cattle look fresh and clean, and both + men and women proceed cheerily to their already hoed gardens, and sow the + seed. The large animals in the country leave the spots where they had been + compelled to congregate for the sake of water, and become much wilder. + Occasionally a herd of buffaloes or antelopes smell rain from afar, and + set off in a straight line toward the place. Sometimes they make mistakes, + and are obliged to return to the water they had left. + </p> + <p> + Very large tracts of country are denuded of old grass during the winter by + means of fire, in order to attract the game to that which there springs up + unmixed with the older crop. This new herbage has a renovating tendency, + for as long as they feed on the dry grass of the former season they + continue in good condition; but no sooner are they able to indulge their + appetites on the fresh herbage, than even the marrow in their bones + becomes dissolved, and a red, soft, uneatable mass is left behind. After + this commences the work of regaining their former plumpness. + </p> + <p> + MAY 30TH. We left Bango, and proceeded to the River Loembwe, which flows + to the N.N.E., and abounds in hippopotami. It is about sixty yards wide, + and four feet deep, but usually contains much less water than this, for + there are fishing-weirs placed right across it. Like all the African + rivers in this quarter, it has morasses on each bank, yet the valley in + which it winds, when seen from the high lands above, is extremely + beautiful. This valley is about the fourth of a mile wide, and it was easy + to fancy the similarity of many spots on it to the goodly manors in our + own country, and feel assured that there was still ample territory left + for an indefinite increase of the world's population. The villages are + widely apart and difficult of access, from the paths being so covered with + tall grass that even an ox can scarcely follow the track. The grass cuts + the feet of the men; yet we met a woman with a little child, and a girl, + wending their way home with loads of manioc. The sight of a white man + always infuses a tremor into their dark bosoms, and in every case of the + kind they appeared immensely relieved when I had fairly passed without + having sprung upon them. In the villages the dogs run away with their + tails between their legs, as if they had seen a lion. The women peer from + behind the walls till he comes near them, and then hastily dash into the + house. When a little child, unconscious of danger, meets you in the + street, he sets up a scream at the apparition, and conveys the impression + that he is not far from going into fits. Among the Bechuanas I have been + obliged to reprove the women for making a hobgoblin of the white man, and + telling their children that they would send for him to bite them. + </p> + <p> + Having passed the Loembwe, we were in a more open country, with every few + hours a small valley, through which ran a little rill in the middle of a + bog. These were always difficult to pass, and being numerous, kept the + lower part of the person constantly wet. At different points in our course + we came upon votive offerings to the Barimo. These usually consisted of + food; and every deserted village still contained the idols and little + sheds with pots of medicine in them. One afternoon we passed a small frame + house with the head of an ox in it as an object of worship. The dreary + uniformity of gloomy forests and open flats must have a depressing + influence on the minds of the people. Some villages appear more + superstitious than others, if we may judge from the greater number of + idols they contain. + </p> + <p> + Only on one occasion did we witness a specimen of quarreling. An old + woman, standing by our camp, continued to belabor a good-looking young man + for hours with her tongue. Irritated at last, he uttered some words of + impatience, when another man sprang at him, exclaiming, "How dare you + curse my 'Mama'?" They caught each other, and a sort of pushing, dragging + wrestling-match ensued. The old woman who had been the cause of the affray + wished us to interfere, and the combatants themselves hoped as much; but + we, preferring to remain neutral, allowed them to fight it out. It ended + by one falling under the other, both, from their scuffling, being in a + state of nudity. They picked up their clothing and ran off in different + directions, each threatening to bring his gun and settle the dispute in + mortal combat. Only one, however, returned, and the old woman continued + her scolding till my men, fairly tired of her tongue, ordered her to be + gone. This trifling incident was one of interest to me, for, during the + whole period of my residence in the Bechuana country, I never saw unarmed + men strike each other. Their disputes are usually conducted with great + volubility and noisy swearing, but they generally terminate by both + parties bursting into a laugh. + </p> + <p> + At every village attempts were made to induce us to remain a night. + Sometimes large pots of beer were offered to us as a temptation. + Occasionally the head man would peremptorily order us to halt under a tree + which he pointed out. At other times young men volunteered to guide us to + the impassable part of the next bog, in the hope of bringing us to a + stand, for all are excessively eager to trade; but food was so very cheap + that we sometimes preferred paying them to keep it, and let us part in + good humor. A good-sized fowl could be had for a single charge of + gunpowder. Each native who owns a gun carries about with him a measure + capable of holding but one charge, in which he receives his powder. + Throughout this region the women are almost entirely naked, their gowns + being a patch of cloth frightfully narrow, with no flounces; and nothing + could exceed the eagerness with which they offered to purchase strips of + calico of an inferior description. They were delighted with the large + pieces we gave, though only about two feet long, for a fowl and a basket + of upward of 20 lbs. of meal. As we had now only a small remnant of our + stock, we were obliged to withstand their importunity, and then many of + their women, with true maternal feelings, held up their little naked + babies, entreating us to sell only a little rag for them. The fire, they + say, is their only clothing by night, and the little ones derive heat by + sticking closely to their parents. Instead of a skin or cloth to carry + their babies in, the women plait a belt about four inches broad, of the + inner bark of a tree, and this, hung from the one shoulder to the opposite + side, like a soldier's belt, enables them to support the child by placing + it on their side in a sitting position. Their land is very fertile, and + they can raise ground-nuts and manioc in abundance. Here I observed no + cotton, nor any domestic animals except fowls and little dogs. The chief + possessed a few goats, and I never could get any satisfactory reason why + the people also did not rear them. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 2d of June we reached the village of Kawawa, rather + an important personage in these parts. This village consists of forty or + fifty huts, and is surrounded by forest. Drums were beating over the body + of a man who had died the preceding day, and some women were making a + clamorous wail at the door of his hut, and addressing the deceased as if + alive. The drums continued beating the whole night, with as much + regularity as a steam-engine thumps on board ship. We observed that a + person dressed fantastically with a great number of feathers left the + people at the dance and wailing, and went away into the deep forest in the + morning, to return again to the obsequies in the evening; he is intended + to represent one of the Barimo. + </p> + <p> + In the morning we had agreeable intercourse with Kawawa; he visited us, + and we sat and talked nearly the whole day with him and his people. When + we visited him in return, we found him in his large court-house, which, + though of a beehive shape, was remarkably well built. As I had shown him a + number of curiosities, he now produced a jug, of English ware, shaped like + an old man holding a can of beer in his hand, as the greatest curiosity he + had to exhibit. + </p> + <p> + We had now an opportunity of hearing a case brought before him for + judgment. A poor man and his wife were accused of having bewitched the man + whose wake was now held in the village. Before Kawawa even heard the + defense, he said, "You have killed one of my children; bring all yours + before me, that I may choose which of them shall be mine instead." The + wife eloquently defended herself, but this availed little, for these + accusations are the means resorted to by some chiefs to secure subjects + for the slave-market. He probably thought that I had come to purchase + slaves, though I had already given a pretty full explanation of my + pursuits both to himself and his people. We exhibited the pictures of the + magic lantern in the evening, and all were delighted except Kawawa + himself. He showed symptoms of dread, and several times started up as if + to run away, but was prevented by the crowd behind. Some of the more + intelligent understood the explanations well, and expatiated eloquently on + them to the more obtuse. Nothing could exceed the civilities which had + passed between us during this day; but Kawawa had heard that the Chiboque + had forced us to pay an ox, and now thought he might do the same. When, + therefore, I sent next morning to let him know that we were ready to + start, he replied in his figurative way, "If an ox came in the way of a + man, ought he not to eat it? I had given one to the Chiboque, and must + give him the same, together with a gun, gunpowder, and a black robe, like + that he had seen spread out to dry the day before; that, if I refused an + ox, I must give one of my men, and a book by which he might see the state + of Matiamvo's heart toward him, and which would forewarn him, should + Matiamvo ever resolve to cut off his head." Kawawa came in the coolest + manner possible to our encampment after sending this message, and told me + he had seen all our goods, and must have all he asked, as he had command + of the Kasai in our front, and would prevent us from passing it unless we + paid this tribute. I replied that the goods were my property and not his; + that I would never have it said that a white man had paid tribute to a + black, and that I should cross the Kasai in spite of him. He ordered his + people to arm themselves, and when some of my men saw them rushing for + their bows, arrows, and spears, they became somewhat panic-stricken. I + ordered them to move away, and not to fire unless Kawawa's people struck + the first blow. I took the lead, and expected them all to follow, as they + usually had done, but many of my men remained behind. When I knew this, I + jumped off the ox, and made a rush to them with the revolver in my hand. + Kawawa ran away among his people, and they turned their backs too. I + shouted to my men to take up their luggage and march; some did so with + alacrity, feeling that they had disobeyed orders by remaining; but one of + them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kawawa, until I gave him a + punch on the head with the pistol, and made him go too. I felt here, as + elsewhere, that subordination must be maintained at all risks. We all + moved into the forest, the people of Kawawa standing about a hundred yards + off, gazing, but not firing a shot or an arrow. It is extremely unpleasant + to part with these chieftains thus, after spending a day or two in the + most amicable intercourse, and in a part where the people are generally + civil. This Kawawa, however, is not a good specimen of the Balonda chiefs, + and is rather notorious in the neighborhood for his folly. We were told + that he has good reason to believe that Matiamvo will some day cut off his + head for his disregard of the rights of strangers. + </p> + <p> + Kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by the unceremonious + way in which we had left him; for, when we had reached the ford of the + Kasai, about ten miles distant, we found that he had sent four of his men, + with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage. We were here duly + informed that we must deliver up all the articles mentioned, and one of + our men besides. This demand for one of our number always nettled every + heart. The canoes were taken away before our eyes, and we were supposed to + be quite helpless without them, at a river a good hundred yards broad, and + very deep. Pitsane stood on the bank, gazing with apparent indifference on + the stream, and made an accurate observation of where the canoes were + hidden among the reeds. The ferrymen casually asked one of my Batoka if + they had rivers in his country, and he answered with truth, "No, we have + none." Kawawa's people then felt sure we could not cross. I thought of + swimming when they were gone; but after it was dark, by the unasked loan + of one of the hidden canoes, we soon were snug in our bivouac on the + southern bank of the Kasai. I left some beads as payment for some meal + which had been presented by the ferrymen; and, the canoe having been left + on their own side of the river, Pitsane and his companions laughed + uproariously at the disgust our enemies would feel, and their perplexity + as to who had been our paddler across. They were quite sure that Kawawa + would imagine that we had been ferried over by his own people, and would + be divining to find out who had done the deed. When ready to depart in the + morning, Kawawa's people appeared on the opposite heights, and could + scarcely believe their eyes when they saw us prepared to start away to the + south. At last one of them called out, "Ah! ye are bad," to which Pitsane + and his companions retorted, "Ah! ye are good, and we thank you for the + loan of your canoe." We were careful to explain the whole of the + circumstances to Katema and the other chiefs, and they all agreed that we + were perfectly justifiable under the circumstances, and that Matiamvo + would approve our conduct. When any thing that might bear an unfavorable + construction happens among themselves, they send explanations to each + other. The mere fact of doing so prevents them from losing their + character, for there is public opinion even among them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 24. + </h2> + <p> + Level Plains—Vultures and other Birds—Diversity of Color in + Flowers of the same Species—The Sundew—Twenty-seventh Attack + of Fever—A River which flows in opposite Directions—Lake + Dilolo the Watershed between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans—Position + of Rocks—Sir Roderick Murchison's Explanation—Characteristics + of the Rainy Season in connection with the Floods of the Zambesi and the + Nile—Probable Reason of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North + of the Equator—Arab Reports of Region east of Londa—Probable + Watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile—Lake Dilolo—Reach + Katema's Town: his renewed Hospitality; desire to appear like a White Man; + ludicrous Departure—Jackdaws— Ford southern Branch of Lake + Dilolo—Small Fish—Project for a Makololo Village near the + Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye—Hearty Welcome from Shinte—Kolimbota's + Wound—Plant-seeds and Fruit-trees brought from Angola—Masiko + and Limboa's Quarrel—Nyamoana now a Widow—Purchase Canoes and + descend the Leeba—Herds of wild Animals on its Banks—Unsuccessful + Buffalo-hunt—Frogs—Sinbad and the Tsetse— Dispatch a + Message to Manenko—Arrival of her Husband Sambanza—The + Ceremony called Kasendi—Unexpected Fee for performing a surgical + Operation—Social Condition of the Tribes—Desertion of Mboenga—Stratagem + of Mambowe Hunters—Water-turtles—Charged by a Buffalo—Reception + from the People of Libonta—Explain the Causes of our long Delay—Pitsane's + Speech—Thanksgiving Services—Appearance of my "Braves"—Wonderful + Kindness of the People. + </p> + <p> + After leaving the Kasai, we entered upon the extensive level plains which + we had formerly found in a flooded condition. The water on them was not + yet dried up, as it still remained in certain hollow spots. Vultures were + seen floating in the air, showing that carrion was to be found; and, + indeed, we saw several of the large game, but so exceedingly wild as to be + unapproachable. Numbers of caterpillars mounted the stalks of grass, and + many dragonflies and butterflies appeared, though this was winter. The + caprimulgus or goat-sucker, swifts, and different kinds of swallows, with + a fiery-red bee-eater in flocks, showed that the lowest temperature here + does not destroy the insects on which they feed. Jet-black larks, with + yellow shoulders, enliven the mornings with their songs, but they do not + continue so long on the wing as ours, nor soar so high. We saw many of the + pretty white ardea, and other water-birds, flying over the spots not yet + dried up; and occasionally wild ducks, but these only in numbers + sufficient to remind us that we were approaching the Zambesi, where every + water-fowl has a home. + </p> + <p> + While passing across these interminable-looking plains, the eye rests with + pleasure on a small flower, which exists in such numbers as to give its + own hue to the ground. One broad band of yellow stretches across our path. + On looking at the flowers which formed this golden carpet, we saw every + variety of that color, from the palest lemon to the richest orange. + Crossing a hundred yards of this, we came upon another broad band of the + same flower, but blue, and this color is varied from the lightest tint to + dark blue, and even purple. I had before observed the same flower + possessing different colors in different parts of the country, and once a + great number of liver-colored flowers, which elsewhere were yellow. Even + the color of the birds changed with the district we passed through; but + never before did I see such a marked change as from yellow to blue, + repeated again and again on the same plain. Another beautiful plant + attracted my attention so strongly on these plains that I dismounted to + examine it. To my great delight I found it to be an old home acquaintance, + a species of Drosera, closely resembling our own sundew ('Drosera + Anglia'). The flower-stalk never attains a height of more than two or + three inches, and the leaves are covered with reddish hairs, each of which + has a drop of clammy fluid at its tip, making the whole appear as if + spangled over with small diamonds. I noticed it first in the morning, and + imagined the appearance was caused by the sun shining on drops of dew; + but, as it continued to maintain its brilliancy during the heat of the + day, I proceeded to investigate the cause of its beauty, and found that + the points of the hairs exuded pure liquid, in, apparently, capsules of + clear, glutinous matter. They were thus like dewdrops preserved from + evaporation. The clammy fluid is intended to entrap insects, which, dying + on the leaf, probably yield nutriment to the plant. + </p> + <p> + During our second day on this extensive plain I suffered from my + twenty-seventh attack of fever, at a part where no surface-water was to be + found. We never thought it necessary to carry water with us in this + region; and now, when I was quite unable to move on, my men soon found + water to allay my burning thirst by digging with sticks a few feet beneath + the surface. We had thus an opportunity of observing the state of these + remarkable plains at different seasons of the year. Next day we pursued + our way, and on the 8th of June we forded the Lotembwa to the N.W. of + Dilolo, and regained our former path. + </p> + <p> + The Lotembwa here is about a mile wide, about three feet deep, and full of + the lotus, papyrus, arum, mat-rushes, and other aquatic plants. I did not + observe the course in which the water flowed while crossing; but, having + noticed before that the Lotembwa on the other side of the Lake Dilolo + flowed in a southerly direction, I supposed that this was simply a + prolongation of the same river beyond Dilolo, and that it rose in this + large marsh, which we had not seen in our progress to the N.W. But when we + came to the Southern Lotembwa, we were informed by Shakatwala that the + river we had crossed flowed in an opposite direction—not into + Dilolo, but into the Kasai. This phenomenon of a river running in opposite + directions struck even his mind as strange; and, though I did not observe + the current, simply from taking it for granted that it was toward the + lake, I have no doubt that his assertion, corroborated as it was by + others, is correct, and that the Dilolo is actually the watershed between + the river systems that flow to the east and west. + </p> + <p> + I would have returned in order to examine more carefully this most + interesting point, but, having had my lower extremities chilled in + crossing the Northern Lotembwa, I was seized with vomiting of blood, and, + besides, saw no reason to doubt the native testimony. The distance between + Dilolo and the valleys leading to that of the Kasai is not more than + fifteen miles, and the plains between are perfectly level; and, had I + returned, I should only have found that this little lake Dilolo, by giving + a portion to the Kasai and another to the Zambesi, distributes its waters + to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. I state the fact exactly as it opened + to my own mind, for it was only now that I apprehended the true form of + the river systems and continent. I had seen the various rivers of this + country on the western side flowing from the subtending ridges into the + centre, and had received information from natives and Arabs that most of + the rivers on the eastern side of the same great region took a somewhat + similar course from an elevated ridge there, and that all united in two + main drains, the one flowing to the north and the other to the south, and + that the northern drain found its way out by the Congo to the west, and + the southern by the Zambesi to the east. I was thus on the watershed, or + highest point of these two great systems, but still not more than 4000 + feet above the level of the sea, and 1000 feet lower than the top of the + western ridge we had already crossed; yet, instead of lofty snow-clad + mountains appearing to verify the conjectures of the speculative, we had + extensive plains, over which one may travel a month without seeing any + thing higher than an ant-hill or a tree. I was not then aware that any one + else had discovered the elevated trough form of the centre of Africa. + </p> + <p> + I had observed that the old schistose rocks on the sides dipped in toward + the centre of the country, and their strike nearly corresponded with the + major axis of the continent; and also that where the later erupted trap + rocks had been spread out in tabular masses over the central plateau, they + had borne angular fragments of the older rocks in their substance; but the + partial generalization which the observations led to was, that great + volcanic action had taken place in ancient times, somewhat in the same way + it does now, at distances of not more than three hundred miles from the + sea, and that this igneous action, extending along both sides of the + continent, had tilted up the lateral rocks in the manner they are now seen + to lie. The greater energy and more extended range of igneous action in + those very remote periods when Africa was formed, embracing all the + flanks, imparted to it its present very simple literal outline. This was + the length to which I had come. + </p> + <p> + The trap rocks, which now constitute the "filling up" of the great valley, + were always a puzzle to me till favored with Sir Roderick Murchison's + explanation of the original form of the continent, for then I could see + clearly why these trap rocks, which still lie in a perfectly horizontal + position on extensive areas, held in their substance angular fragments, + containing algae of the old schists, which form the bottom of the original + lacustrine basin: the traps, in bursting through, had broken them off and + preserved them. There are, besides, ranges of hills in the central parts, + composed of clay and sandstone schists, with the ripple mark distinct, in + which no fossils appear; but as they are usually tilted away from the + masses of horizontal trap, it is probable that they too were a portion of + the original bottom, and fossils may yet be found in them.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * After dwelling upon the geological structure of the Cape + Colony as developed by Mr. A. Bain, and the existence in very + remote periods of lacustrine conditions in the central part of + South Africa, as proved by fresh-water and terrestrial + fossils, Sir Roderick Murchison thus writes: + + "Such as South Africa is now, such have been her main features + during countless past ages anterior to the creation of the + human race; for the old rocks which form her outer fringe + unquestionably circled round an interior marshy or lacustrine + country, in which the Dicynodon flourished, at a time when not + a single animal was similar to any living thing which now + inhabits the surface of our globe. The present central and + meridian zone of waters, whether lakes or marshes, extending + from Lake Tchad to Lake 'Ngami, with hippopotami on their + banks, are therefore but the great modern residual + geographical phenomena of those of a mesozoic age. The + differences, however, between the geological past of Africa + and her present state are enormous. Since that primeval time, + the lands have been much elevated above the sea-level— + eruptive rocks piercing in parts through them; deep rents and + defiles have been suddenly formed in the subtending ridges + through which some rivers escape outward. + + "Travelers will eventually ascertain whether the basin-shaped + structure, which is here announced as having been the great + feature of the most ancient, as it is of the actual geography + of South Africa (i.e., from primeval times to the present + day), does, or does not, extend into Northern Africa. Looking + at that much broader portion of the continent, we have some + reason to surmise that the higher mountains also form, in a + general sense, its flanks only."—President's Address, Royal + Geographical Society, 1852, p. cxxiii. +</pre> + <p> + The characteristics of the rainy season in this wonderfully humid region + may account in some measure for the periodical floods of the Zambesi, and + perhaps the Nile. The rains seem to follow the course of the sun, for they + fall in October and November, when the sun passes over this zone on his + way south. On reaching the tropic of Capricorn in December, it is dry; and + December and January are the months in which injurious droughts are most + dreaded near that tropic (from Kolobeng to Linyanti). As he returns again + to the north in February, March, and April, we have the great rains of the + year; and the plains, which in October and November were well moistened, + and imbibed rain like sponges, now become supersaturated, and pour forth + those floods of clear water which inundate the banks of the Zambesi. + Somewhat the same phenomenon probably causes the periodical inundations of + the Nile. The two rivers rise in the same region; but there is a + difference in the period of flood, possibly from their being on opposite + sides of the equator. The waters of the Nile are said to become turbid in + June; and the flood attains its greatest height in August, or the period + when we may suppose the supersaturation to occur. The subject is worthy + the investigation of those who may examine the region between the equator + and 10 Deg. S.; for the Nile does not show much increase when the sun is + at its farthest point north, or tropic of Cancer, but at the time of its + returning to the equator, exactly as in the other case when he is on + Capricorn, and the Zambesi is affected.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The above is from my own observation, together with + information derived from the Portuguese in the interior of + Angola; and I may add that the result of many years' + observation by Messrs. Gabriel and Brand at Loanda, on the + west coast, is in accordance therewith. It rains there between + the 1st and 30th of November, but January and December are + usually both warm and dry. The heavier rains commence about + the 1st of February, and last until the 15th of May. Then no + rain falls between the 20th of May and the 1st of November. + The rain averages from 12 to 15 inches per annum. In 1852 it + was 12.034 inches; in 1853, 15.473 inches. Although I had no + means of measuring the amount of rain which fell in Londa, I + feel certain that the annual quantity exceeds very much that + which falls on the coast, because for a long time we noticed + that every dawn was marked by a deluging shower, which began + without warning-drops or thunder. I observed that the rain + ceased suddenly on the 28th of April, and the lesser rains + commenced about a fortnight before the beginning of November. +</pre> + <p> + From information derived from Arabs of Zanzibar, whom I met at Naliele in + the middle of the country, the region to the east of the parts of Londa + over which we have traveled resembles them in its conformation. They + report swampy steppes, some of which have no trees, where the inhabitants + use grass, and stalks of native corn, for fuel. A large shallow lake is + also pointed out in that direction, named Tanganyenka, which requires + three days for crossing in canoes. It is connected with another named + Kalagwe (Garague?), farther north, and may be the Nyanja of the Maravim. + From this lake is derived, by numerous small streams, the River Loapula, + the eastern branch of the Zambesi, which, coming from the N.E., flows past + the town of Cazembe. + </p> + <p> + The southern end of this lake is ten days northeast of the town of + Cazembe; and as that is probably more than five days from Shinte, we can + not have been nearer to it than 150 miles. Probably this lake is the + watershed between the Zambesi and the Nile, as Lake Dilolo is that between + the Leeba and Kasai. But, however this may be, the phenomena of the rainy + season show that it is not necessary to assume the existence of high snowy + mountains until we get reliable information. This, it is to be hoped, will + be one of the results of the researches of Captain Burton in his present + journey. + </p> + <p> + The original valley formation of the continent determined the northern and + southern course of the Zambesi in the centre, and also of the ancient + river which once flowed from the Linyanti basin to the Orange River. It + also gave direction to the southern and northern flow of the Kasai and the + Nile. We find that between the latitudes, say 6 Deg. and 12 Deg. S., from + which, in all probability, the head waters of those rivers diverge, there + is a sort of elevated partition in the great longitudinal valley. + Presuming on the correctness of the native information, which places the + humid region to which the Nile and Zambesi probably owe their origin + within the latitudes indicated, why does so much more rain fall there than + in the same latitudes north of the equator? Why does Darfur not give rise + to great rivers, like Londa and the country east of it? The prevailing + winds in the ocean opposite the territory pointed out are said to be from + the N.E. and S.E. during a great part of the year; they extend their + currents on one side at least of the equator quite beyond the middle of + the continent, and even until in Angola they meet the sea-breeze from the + Atlantic. If the reader remembers the explanation given at page 109,* that + the comparative want of rain on the Kalahari Desert is caused by the mass + of air losing its humidity as it passes up and glides over the subtending + ridge, and will turn to the map, he may perceive that the same cause is in + operation in an intense degree by the mountains of Abyssinia to render the + region about Darfur still more arid, and that the flanking ranges + mentioned lie much nearer the equator than those which rob the Kalahari of + humidity. The Nile, even while running through a part of that region, + receives remarkably few branches. Observing also that there is no known + abrupt lateral mountain-range between 6 Deg. and 12 Deg. S., but that + there is an elevated partition there, and that the southing and northing + of the southeasters and northeasters probably cause a confluence of the + two great atmospheric currents, he will perceive an accumulation of + humidity on the flanks and crown of the partition, instead of, as + elsewhere, opposite the Kalahari and Darfur, a deposition of the + atmospheric moisture on the eastern slopes of the subtending ridges. This + explanation is offered with all deference to those who have made + meteorology their special study, and as a hint to travelers who may have + opportunity to examine the subject more fully. I often observed, while on + a portion of the partition, that the air by night was generally quite + still, but as soon as the sun's rays began to shoot across the upper + strata of the atmosphere in the early morning, a copious discharge came + suddenly down from the accumulated clouds. It always reminded me of the + experiment of putting a rod into a saturated solution of a certain salt, + causing instant crystallization. This, too, was the period when I often + observed the greatest amount of cold. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Since the explanation in page 109 [Chapter 5 Paragraph 5] + was printed, I have been pleased to see the same explanation + given by the popular astronomer and natural philosopher, M. + Babinet, in reference to the climate of France. It is quoted + from a letter of a correspondent of the 'Times' in Paris: + + "In the normal meteorological state of France and Europe, the + west wind, which is the counter-current of the trade-winds + that constantly blow from the east under the tropics—the west + wind, I say, after having touched France and Europe by the + western shores, re-descends by Marseilles and the + Mediterranean, Constantinople and the Archipelago, Astrakan + and the Caspian Sea, in order to merge again into the great + circuit of the general winds, and be thus carried again into + the equatorial current. Whenever these masses of air, + impregnated with humidity during their passage over the ocean, + meet with an obstacle, such as a chain of mountains, for + example, they slide up the acclivity, and, when they reach the + crest, find themselves relieved from a portion of the column + of air which pressed upon them. Thus, dilating by reason of + their elasticity, they cause a considerable degree of cold, + and a precipitation of humidity in the form of fogs, clouds, + rain, or snow. A similar effect occurs whatever be the + obstacle they find in their way. Now this is what had + gradually taken place before 1856. By some cause or other + connected with the currents of the atmosphere, the warm + current from the west had annually ascended northward, so + that, instead of passing through France, it came from the + Baltic and the north of Germany, thus momentarily disturbing + the ordinary law of the temperatures of Europe. But in 1856 a + sudden change occurred. The western current again passed, as + before, through the centre of France. It met with an obstacle + in the air which had not yet found its usual outlet toward the + west and south. Hence a stoppage, a rising, a consequent + dilation and fall of temperature, extraordinary rains and + inundations. But, now that the natural state of things is + restored, nothing appears to prognosticate the return of + similar disasters. Were the western current found annually to + move further north, we might again experience meteorological + effects similar to those of 1856. Hence the regular seasons + may be considered re-established in France for several years + to come. The important meteorological communications which the + Imperial Observatory is daily establishing with the other + countries of Europe, and the introduction of apparatus for + measuring the velocity of the aerial currents and prevailing + winds, will soon afford prognostics sufficiently certain to + enable an enlightened government to provide in time against + future evils." +</pre> + <p> + After crossing the Northern Lotembwa we met a party of the people of + Kangenke, who had treated us kindly on our way to the north, and sent him + a robe of striped calico, with an explanation of the reason for not + returning through his village. We then went on to the Lake Dilolo. It is a + fine sheet of water, six or eight miles long, and one or two broad, and + somewhat of a triangular shape. A branch proceeds from one of the angles, + and flows into the Southern Lotembwa. Though laboring under fever, the + sight of the blue waters, and the waves lashing the shore, had a most + soothing influence on the mind, after so much of lifeless, flat, and + gloomy forest. The heart yearned for the vivid impressions which are + always created by the sight of the broad expanse of the grand old ocean. + That has life in it; but the flat uniformities over which we had roamed + made me feel as if buried alive. We found Moene Dilolo (Lord of the Lake) + a fat, jolly fellow, who lamented that when they had no strangers they had + plenty of beer, and always none when they came. He gave us a handsome + present of meal and putrid buffalo's flesh. Meat can not be too far gone + for them, as it is used only in small quantities, as a sauce to their + tasteless manioc. They were at this time hunting antelopes, in order to + send the skins as a tribute to Matiamvo. Great quantities of fish are + caught in the lake; and numbers of young water-fowl are now found in the + nests among the reeds. + </p> + <p> + Our progress had always been slow, and I found that our rate of traveling + could only be five hours a day for five successive days. On the sixth, + both men and oxen showed symptoms of knocking up. We never exceeded two + and a half or three miles an hour in a straight line, though all were + anxious to get home. The difference in the rate of traveling between + ourselves and the slave-traders was our having a rather quicker step, a + longer day's journey, and twenty traveling days a month instead of their + ten. When one of my men became ill, but still could walk, others parted + his luggage among them; yet we had often to stop one day a week, besides + Sundays, simply for the sake of rest. The latitude of Lake Dilolo is 11d + 32' 1" S., long. 22d 27' E. + </p> + <p> + JUNE 14TH. We reached the collection of straggling villages over which + Katema rules, and were thankful to see old familiar faces again. + Shakatwala performed the part of a chief by bringing forth abundant + supplies of food in his master's name. He informed us that Katema, too, + was out hunting skins for Matiamvo. + </p> + <p> + In different parts of this country, we remarked that when old friends were + inquired for, the reply was, "Ba hola" (They are getting better); or if + the people of a village were inquired for, the answer was, "They are + recovering," as if sickness was quite a common thing. Indeed, many with + whom we had made acquaintance in going north we now found were in their + graves. On the 15th Katema came home from his hunting, having heard of our + arrival. He desired me to rest myself and eat abundantly, for, being a + great man, I must feel tired; and he took good care to give the means of + doing so. All the people in these parts are exceedingly kind and liberal + with their food, and Katema was not behindhand. When he visited our + encampment, I presented him with a cloak of red baize, ornamented with + gold tinsel, which cost thirty shillings, according to the promise I had + made in going to Londa; also a cotton robe, both large and small beads, an + iron spoon, and a tin pannikin containing a quarter of a pound of powder. + He seemed greatly pleased with the liberality shown, and assured me that + the way was mine, and that no one should molest me in it if he could help + it. We were informed by Shakatwala that the chief never used any part of a + present before making an offer of it to his mother, or the departed spirit + to whom he prayed. Katema asked if I could not make a dress for him like + the one I wore, so that he might appear as a white man when any stranger + visited him. One of the councilors, imagining that he ought to second this + by begging, Katema checked him by saying, "Whatever strangers give, be it + little or much, I always receive it with thankfulness, and never trouble + them for more." On departing, he mounted on the shoulders of his + spokesman, as the most dignified mode of retiring. The spokesman being a + slender man, and the chief six feet high, and stout in proportion, there + would have been a break-down had he not been accustomed to it. We were + very much pleased with Katema; and next day he presented us with a cow, + that we might enjoy the abundant supplies of meal he had given with good + animal food. He then departed for the hunting-ground, after assuring me + that the town and every thing in it were mine, and that his factotum, + Shakatwala, would remain and attend to every want, and also conduct us to + the Leeba. + </p> + <p> + On attempting to slaughter the cow Katema had given, we found the herd as + wild as buffaloes; and one of my men having only wounded it, they fled + many miles into the forest, and were with great difficulty brought back. + Even the herdsman was afraid to go near them. The majority of them were + white, and they were all beautiful animals. After hunting it for two days + it was dispatched at last by another ball. Here we saw a flock of + jackdaws, a rare sight in Londa, busy with the grubs in the valley, which + are eaten by the people too. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Katema's town on the 19th, and proceeding four miles to the + eastward, we forded the southern branch of Lake Dilolo. We found it a mile + and a quarter broad; and, as it flows into the Lotembwa, the lake would + seem to be a drain of the surrounding flats, and to partake of the + character of a fountain. The ford was waist-deep, and very difficult, from + the masses of arum and rushes through which we waded. Going to the + eastward about three miles, we came to the Southern Lotembwa itself, + running in a valley two miles broad. It is here eighty or ninety yards + wide, and contains numerous islands covered with dense sylvan vegetation. + In the rainy season the valley is flooded, and as the waters dry up great + multitudes of fish are caught. This happens very extensively over the + country, and fishing-weirs are met with every where. A species of small + fish, about the size of the minnow, is caught in bagfuls and dried in the + sun. The taste is a pungent aromatic bitter, and it was partaken of freely + by my people, although they had never met with it before. On many of the + paths which had been flooded a nasty sort of slime of decayed vegetable + matter is left behind, and much sickness prevails during the drying up of + the water. We did not find our friend Mozinkwa at his pleasant home on the + Lokaloeje; his wife was dead, and he had removed elsewhere. He followed us + some distance, but our reappearance seemed to stir up his sorrows. We + found the pontoon at the village in which we left it. It had been + carefully preserved, but a mouse had eaten a hole in it and rendered it + useless. + </p> + <p> + We traversed the extended plain on the north bank of the Leeba, and + crossed this river a little farther on at Kanyonke's village, which is + about twenty miles west of the Peri hills, our former ford. The first + stage beyond the Leeba was at the rivulet Loamba, by the village of + Chebende, nephew of Shinte; and next day we met Chebende himself returning + from the funeral of Samoana, his father. He was thin and haggard-looking + compared to what he had been before, the probable effect of the orgies in + which he had been engaged. Pitsane and Mohorisi, having concocted the + project of a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, as an approach to + the white man's market, spoke to Chebende, as an influential man, on the + subject, but he cautiously avoided expressing an opinion. The idea which + had sprung up in their own minds of an establishment somewhere near the + confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye, commended itself to my judgment at + the time as a geographically suitable point for civilization and commerce. + The right bank of the Leeba there is never flooded; and from that point + there is communication by means of canoes to the country of the Kanyika, + and also to Cazembe and beyond, with but one or two large waterfalls + between. There is no obstruction down to the Barotse valley; and there is + probably canoe navigation down the Kafue or Bashukulompo River, though it + is reported to contain many cataracts. It flows through a fertile country, + well peopled with Bamasasa, who cultivate the native produce largely. + </p> + <p> + As this was the middle of winter, it may be mentioned that the temperature + of the water in the morning was 47 Deg., and that of the air 50 Deg., + which, being loaded with moisture, was very cold to the feelings. Yet the + sun was very hot by day, and the temperature in the coolest shade from 88 + Deg. to 90 Deg.; in the evenings from 76 Deg. to 78 Deg. + </p> + <p> + Before reaching the town of Shinte we passed through many large villages + of the Balobale, who have fled from the chief Kangenke. The Mambari from + Bihe come constantly to him for trade; and, as he sells his people, great + numbers of them escape to Shinte and Katema, who refuse to give them up. + </p> + <p> + We reached our friend Shinte, and received a hearty welcome from this + friendly old man, and abundant provisions of the best he had. On hearing + the report of the journey given by my companions, and receiving a piece of + cotton cloth about two yards square, he said, "These Mambari cheat us by + bringing little pieces only; but the next time you pass I shall send men + with you to trade for me in Loanda." When I explained the use made of the + slaves he sold, and that he was just destroying his own tribe by selling + his people, and enlarging that of the Mambari for the sake of these small + pieces of cloth, it seemed to him quite a new idea. He entered into a long + detail of his troubles with Masiko, who had prevented him from cultivating + that friendship with the Makololo which I had inculcated, and had even + plundered the messengers he had sent with Kolimbota to the Barotse valley. + Shinte was particularly anxious to explain that Kolimbota had remained + after my departure of his own accord, and that he had engaged in the + quarrels of the country without being invited; that, in attempting to + capture one of the children of a Balobale man, who had offended the + Balonda by taking honey from a hive which did not belong to him, Kolimbota + had got wounded by a shot in the thigh, but that he had cured the wound, + given him a wife, and sent a present of cloth to Sekeletu, with a full + account of the whole affair. From the statement of Shinte we found that + Kolimbota had learned, before we left his town, that the way we intended + to take was so dangerous that it would be better for him to leave us to + our fate; and, as he had taken one of our canoes with him, it seemed + evident that he did not expect us to return. Shinte, however, sent a + recommendation to his sister Nyamoana to furnish as many canoes as we + should need for our descent of the Leeba and Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + As I had been desirous of introducing some of the fruit-trees of Angola, + both for my own sake and that of the inhabitants, we had carried a pot + containing a little plantation of orange, cashew-trees, + custard-apple-trees ('anona'), and a fig-tree, with coffee, aracas ('Araca + pomifera'), and papaws ('Carica papaya'). Fearing that, if we took them + farther south at present, they might be killed by the cold, we planted + them out in an inclosure of one of Shinte's principal men, and, at his + request, promised to give Shinte a share when grown. They know the value + of fruits, but at present have none except wild ones. A wild fruit we + frequently met with in Londa is eatable, and, when boiled, yields a large + quantity of oil, which is much used in anointing both head and body. He + eagerly accepted some of the seeds of the palm-oil-tree ('Elaeis + Guineensis'), when told that this would produce oil in much greater + quantity than their native tree, which is not a palm. There are very few + palm-trees in this country, but near Bango we saw a few of a peculiar + palm, the ends of the leaf-stalks of which remain attached to the trunk, + giving it a triangular shape. + </p> + <p> + It is pleasant to observe that all the tribes in Central Africa are fond + of agriculture. My men had collected quantities of seeds in Angola, and + now distributed them among their friends. Some even carried onions, + garlic, and bird's-eye pepper, growing in pannikins. The courts of the + Balonda, planted with tobacco, sugar-cane, and plants used as relishes, + led me to the belief that care would be taken of my little nursery. + </p> + <p> + The thermometer early in the mornings ranged from 42 Deg. to 52 Deg., at + noon 94 Deg. to 96 Deg., and in the evening about 70 Deg. It was placed in + the shade of my tent, which was pitched under the thickest tree we could + find. The sensation of cold, after the heat of the day, was very keen. The + Balonda at this season never leave their fires till nine or ten in the + morning. As the cold was so great here, it was probably frosty at + Linyanti; I therefore feared to expose my young trees there. The latitude + of Shinte's town is 12d 37' 35" S., longitude 22d 47' E. + </p> + <p> + We remained with Shinte till the 6th of July, he being unwilling to allow + us to depart before hearing in a formal manner, in the presence of his + greatest councilor Chebende, a message from Limboa, the brother of Masiko. + When Masiko fled from the Makololo country in consequence of a dislike of + being in a state of subjection to Sebituane, he came into the territory of + Shinte, who received him kindly, and sent orders to all the villages in + his vicinity to supply him with food. Limboa fled in a westerly direction + with a number of people, and also became a chief. His country was + sometimes called Nyenko, but by the Mambari and native Portuguese traders + "Mboela"—the place where they "turned again", or back. As one of the + fruits of polygamy, the children of different mothers are always in a + state of variance. Each son endeavors to gain the ascendency by enticing + away the followers of the others. The mother of Limboa being of a high + family, he felt aggrieved because the situation chosen by Masiko was + better than his. Masiko lived at a convenient distance from the Saloisho + hills, where there is abundance of iron ore, with which the inhabitants + manufacture hoes, knives, etc. They are also skillful in making wooden + vessels. Limboa felt annoyed because he was obliged to apply for these + articles through his brother, whom he regarded as his inferior, and + accordingly resolved to come into the same district. As this was looked + upon as an assertion of superiority which Masiko would resist, it was + virtually a declaration of war. Both Masiko and Shinte pleaded my + injunction to live in peace and friendship, but Limboa, confident of + success, now sent the message which I was about to hear—"That he, + too, highly approved of the 'word' I had given, but would only for once + transgress a little, and live at peace for ever afterward." He now desired + the aid of Shinte to subdue his brother. Messengers came from Masiko at + the same time, desiring assistance to repel him. Shinte felt inclined to + aid Limboa, but, as he had advised them both to wait till I came, I now + urged him to let the quarrel alone, and he took my advice. + </p> + <p> + We parted on the best possible terms with our friend Shinte, and proceeded + by our former path to the village of his sister Nyamoana, who is now a + widow. She received us with much apparent feeling, and said, "We had + removed from our former abode to the place where you found us, and had no + idea then that it was the spot where my husband was to die." She had come + to the River Lofuje, as they never remain in a place where death has once + visited them. We received the loan of five small canoes from her, and also + one of those we had left here before, to proceed down the Leeba. After + viewing the Coanza at Massangano, I thought the Leeba at least a third + larger, and upward of two hundred yards wide. We saw evidence of its rise + during its last flood having been upward of forty feet in perpendicular + height; but this is probably more than usual, as the amount of rain was + above the average. My companions purchased also a number of canoes from + the Balonda. These are very small, and can carry only two persons. They + are made quite thin and light, and as sharp as racing-skiffs, because they + are used in hunting animals in the water. The price paid was a string of + beads equal to the length of the canoe. We advised them to bring canoes + for sale to the Makololo, as they would gladly give them cows in exchange. + </p> + <p> + In descending the Leeba we saw many herds of wild animals, especially the + tahetsi ('Aigoceros equina'), one magnificent antelope, the putokuane + ('Antilope niger'), and two fine lions. The Balobale, however, are getting + well supplied with guns, and will soon thin out the large game. At one of + the villages we were entreated to attack some buffaloes which grazed in + the gardens every night and destroyed the manioc. As we had had no success + in shooting at the game we had seen, and we all longed to have a meal of + meat, we followed the footprints of a number of old bulls. They showed a + great amount of cunning by selecting the densest parts of very + closely-planted forests to stand or recline in during the day. We came + within six yards of them several times before we knew that they were so + near. We only heard them rush away among the crashing branches, catching + only a glimpse of them. It was somewhat exciting to feel, as we trod on + the dry leaves with stealthy steps, that, for any thing we knew, we might + next moment be charged by one of the most dangerous beasts of the forest. + We threaded out their doublings for hours, drawn on by a keen craving for + animal food, as we had been entirely without salt for upward of two + months, but never could get a shot. + </p> + <p> + In passing along the side of the water every where except in Londa, green + frogs spring out at your feet, and light in the water as if taking a + "header"; and on the Leeambye and Chobe we have great numbers of small + green frogs ('Rana fasciata', Boie), which light on blades of grass with + remarkable precision; but on coming along the Leeba I was struck by the + sight of a light green toad about an inch long. The leaf might be nearly + perpendicular, but it stuck to it like a fly. It was of the same size as + the 'Brachymerus bi-fasciatus' (Smith),* which I saw only once in the + Bakwain country. Though small, it was hideous, being colored jet black, + with vermilion spots. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The discovery of this last species is thus mentioned by that + accomplished naturalist, Dr. Smith: "On the banks of the + Limpopo River, close to the tropic of Capricorn, a massive + tree was cut down to obtain wood to repair a wagon. The + workman, while sawing the trunk longitudinally nearly along + its centre, remarked, on reaching a certain point, 'It is + hollow, and will not answer the purpose for which it is + wanted.' He persevered, however, and when a division into + equal halves was effected, it was discovered that the saw in + its course had crossed a large hole, in which were five + specimens of the species just described, each about an inch in + length. Every exertion was made to discover a means of + communication between the external air and the cavity, but + without success. Every part of the latter was probed with the + utmost care, and water was kept in each half for a + considerable time, without any passing into the wood. The + inner surface of the cavity was black, as if charred, and so + was likewise the adjoining wood for half an inch from the + cavity. The tree, at the part where the latter existed, was + 19 inches in diameter; the length of the trunk was 18 feet. + When the Batrachia above mentioned were discovered, they + appeared inanimate, but the influence of a warm sun to which + they were subjected soon imparted to them a moderate degree of + vigor. In a few hours from the time they were liberated they + were tolerably active, and able to move from place to place + apparently with great ease." +</pre> + <p> + Before reaching the Makondo rivulet, latitude 13d 23' 12" S., we came upon + the tsetse in such numbers that many bites were inflicted on my poor ox, + in spite of a man with a branch warding them off. The bite of this insect + does not affect the donkey as it does cattle. The next morning, the spots + on which my ox had been bitten were marked by patches of hair about half + an inch broad being wetted by exudation. Poor Sinbad had carried me all + the way from the Leeba to Golungo Alto, and all the way back again, + without losing any of his peculiarities, or ever becoming reconciled to + our perversity in forcing him away each morning from the pleasant + pasturage on which he had fed. I wished to give the climax to his + usefulness, and allay our craving for animal food at the same time; but my + men having some compunction, we carried him to end his days in peace at + Naliele. + </p> + <p> + Having dispatched a message to our old friend Manenko, we waited a day + opposite her village, which was about fifteen miles from the river. Her + husband was instantly dispatched to meet us with liberal presents of food, + she being unable to travel in consequence of a burn on the foot. Sambanza + gave us a detailed account of the political affairs of the country, and of + Kolimbota's evil doings, and next morning performed the ceremony called + "Kasendi", for cementing our friendship. It is accomplished thus: The + hands of the parties are joined (in this case Pitsane and Sambanza were + the parties engaged); small incisions are made on the clasped hands, on + the pits of the stomach of each, and on the right cheeks and foreheads. A + small quantity of blood is taken off from these points in both parties by + means of a stalk of grass. The blood from one person is put into a pot of + beer, and that of the second into another; each then drinks the other's + blood, and they are supposed to become perpetual friends or relations. + During the drinking of the beer, some of the party continue beating the + ground with short clubs, and utter sentences by way of ratifying the + treaty. The men belonging to each then finish the beer. The principals in + the performance of "Kasendi" are henceforth considered blood-relations, + and are bound to disclose to each other any impending evil. If Sekeletu + should resolve to attack the Balonda, Pitsane would be under obligation to + give Sambanza warning to escape, and so on the other side. They now + presented each other with the most valuable presents they had to bestow. + Sambanza walked off with Pitsane's suit of green baize faced with red, + which had been made in Loanda, and Pitsane, besides abundant supplies of + food, obtained two shells similar to that I had received from Shinte. + </p> + <p> + On one occasion I became blood-relation to a young woman by accident. She + had a large cartilaginous tumor between the bones of the fore-arm, which, + as it gradually enlarged, so distended the muscles as to render her unable + to work. She applied to me to excise it. I requested her to bring her + husband, if he were willing to have the operation performed, and, while + removing the tumor, one of the small arteries squirted some blood into my + eye. She remarked, when I was wiping the blood out of it, "You were a + friend before, now you are a blood-relation; and when you pass this way, + always send me word, that I may cook food for you." In creating these + friendships, my men had the full intention of returning; each one had his + 'Molekane' (friend) in every village of the friendly Balonda. Mohorisi + even married a wife in the town of Katema, and Pitsane took another in the + town of Shinte. These alliances were looked upon with great favor by the + Balonda chiefs, as securing the good-will of the Makololo. + </p> + <p> + In order that the social condition of the tribes may be understood by the + reader, I shall mention that, while waiting for Sambanza, a party of + Barotse came from Nyenko, the former residence of Limboa, who had lately + crossed the Leeba on his way toward Masiko. The head man of this party had + brought Limboa's son to his father, because the Barotse at Nyenko had, + since the departure of Limboa, elected Nananko, another son of Santuru, in + his stead; and our visitor, to whom the boy had been intrusted as a + guardian, thinking him to be in danger, fled with him to his father. The + Barotse, whom Limboa had left behind at Nyenko, on proceeding to elect + Nananko, said, "No, it is quite too much for Limboa to rule over two + places." I would have gone to visit Limboa and Masiko too, in order to + prevent hostilities, but the state of my ox would not allow it. I + therefore sent a message to Limboa by some of his men, protesting against + war with his brother, and giving him formal notice that the path up the + Leeba had been given to us by the Balonda, the owners of the country, and + that no attempt must ever be made to obstruct free intercourse. + </p> + <p> + On leaving this place we were deserted by one of our party, Mboenga, an + Ambonda man, who had accompanied us all the way to Loanda and back. His + father was living with Masiko, and it was natural for him to wish to join + his own family again. He went off honestly, with the exception of taking a + fine "tari" skin given me by Nyamoana, but he left a parcel of gun-flints + which he had carried for me all the way from Loanda. I regretted parting + with him thus, and sent notice to him that he need not have run away, and + if he wished to come to Sekeletu again he would be welcome. We + subsequently met a large party of Barotse fleeing in the same direction; + but when I represented to them that there was a probability of their being + sold as slaves in Londa, and none in the country of Sekeletu, they + concluded to return. The grievance which the Barotse most feel is being + obliged to live with Sekeletu at Linyanti, where there is neither fish nor + fowl, nor any other kind of food, equal in quantity to what they enjoy in + their own fat valley. + </p> + <p> + A short distance below the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye we met a + number of hunters belonging to the tribe called Mambowe, who live under + Masiko. They had dried flesh of hippopotami, buffaloes, and alligators. + They stalk the animals by using the stratagem of a cap made of the skin of + a leche's or poku's head, having the horns still attached, and another + made so as to represent the upper white part of the crane called jabiru + ('Mycteru Senegalensis'), with its long neck and beak above. With these + on, they crawl through the grass; they can easily put up their heads so + far as to see their prey without being recognized until they are within + bow-shot. They presented me with three fine water-turtles,* one of which, + when cooked, had upward of forty eggs in its body. The shell of the egg is + flexible, and it is of the same size at both ends, like those of the + alligator. The flesh, and especially the liver, is excellent. The hunters + informed us that, when the message inculcating peace among the tribes came + to Masiko, the common people were so glad at the prospect of "binding up + the spears", that they ran to the river, and bathed and plunged in it for + joy. This party had been sent by Masiko to the Makololo for aid to repel + their enemy, but, afraid to go thither, had spent the time in hunting. + They have a dread of the Makololo, and hence the joy they expressed when + peace was proclaimed. The Mambowe hunters were much alarmed until my name + was mentioned. They then joined our party, and on the following day + discovered a hippopotamus dead, which they had previously wounded. This + was the first feast of flesh my men had enjoyed, for, though the game was + wonderfully abundant, I had quite got out of the way of shooting, and + missed perpetually. Once I went with the determination of getting so close + that I should not miss a zebra. We went along one of the branches that + stretch out from the river in a small canoe, and two men, stooping down as + low as they could, paddled it slowly along to an open space near to a herd + of zebras and pokus. Peering over the edge of the canoe, the open space + seemed like a patch of wet ground, such as is often seen on the banks of a + river, made smooth as the resting-place of alligators. When we came within + a few yards of it, we found by the precipitate plunging of the reptile + that this was a large alligator itself. Although I had been most careful + to approach near enough, I unfortunately only broke the hind leg of a + zebra. My two men pursued it, but the loss of a hind leg does not prevent + this animal from a gallop. As I walked slowly after the men on an + extensive plain covered with a great crop of grass, which was 'laid' by + its own weight, I observed that a solitary buffalo, disturbed by others of + my own party, was coming to me at a gallop. I glanced around, but the only + tree on the plain was a hundred yards off, and there was no escape + elsewhere. I therefore cocked my rifle, with the intention of giving him a + steady shot in the forehead when he should come within three or four yards + of me. The thought flashed across my mind, "What if your gun misses fire?" + I placed it to my shoulder as he came on at full speed, and that is + tremendous, though generally he is a lumbering-looking animal in his + paces. A small bush and bunch of grass fifteen yards off made him swerve a + little, and exposed his shoulder. I just heard the ball crack there as I + fell flat on my face. The pain must have made him renounce his purpose, + for he bounded close past me on to the water, where he was found dead. In + expressing my thankfulness to God among my men, they were much offended + with themselves for not being present to shield me from this danger. The + tree near me was a camel-thorn, and reminded me that we had come back to + the land of thorns again, for the country we had left is one of + evergreens. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It is probably a species allied to the 'Sternotherus + sinuatus' of Dr. Smith, as it has no disagreeable smell. This + variety annually leaves the water with so much regularity for + the deposit of its eggs, that the natives decide on the time + of sowing their seed by its appearance. +</pre> + <p> + JULY 27TH. We reached the town of Libonta, and were received with + demonstrations of joy such as I had never witnessed before. The women came + forth to meet us, making their curious dancing gestures and loud + lulliloos. Some carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and + shield. Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and cheeks of the + different persons of their acquaintance among us, raising such a dust that + it was quite a relief to get to the men assembled and sitting with proper + African decorum in the kotla. We were looked upon as men risen from the + dead, for the most skillful of their diviners had pronounced us to have + perished long ago. After many expressions of joy at meeting, I arose, and, + thanking them, explained the causes of our long delay, but left the report + to be made by their own countrymen. Formerly I had been the chief speaker, + now I would leave the task of speaking to them. Pitsane then delivered a + speech of upward of an hour in length, giving a highly flattering picture + of the whole journey, of the kindness of the white men in general, and of + Mr. Gabriel in particular. He concluded by saying that I had done more for + them than they expected; that I had not only opened up a path for them to + the other white men, but conciliated all the chiefs along the route. The + oldest man present rose and answered this speech, and, among other things, + alluded to the disgust I felt at the Makololo for engaging in marauding + expeditions against Lechulatebe and Sebolamakwaia, of which we had heard + from the first persons we met, and which my companions most energetically + denounced as "mashue hela", entirely bad. He entreated me not to lose + heart, but to reprove Sekeletu as my child. Another old man followed with + the same entreaties. The following day we observed as our thanksgiving to + God for his goodness in bringing us all back in safety to our friends. My + men decked themselves out in their best, and I found that, although their + goods were finished, they had managed to save suits of European clothing, + which, being white, with their red caps, gave them rather a dashing + appearance. They tried to walk like the soldiers they had seen in Loanda, + and called themselves my "braves" (batlabani). During the service they all + sat with their guns over their shoulders, and excited the unbounded + admiration of the women and children. I addressed them all on the goodness + of God in preserving us from all the dangers of strange tribes and + disease. We had a similar service in the afternoon. The men gave us two + fine oxen for slaughter, and the women supplied us abundantly with milk, + meal, and butter. It was all quite gratuitous, and I felt ashamed that I + could make no return. My men explained the total expenditure of our means, + and the Libontese answered gracefully, "It does not matter; you have + opened a path for us, and we shall have sleep." Strangers came flocking + from a distance, and seldom empty-handed. Their presents I distributed + among my men. + </p> + <p> + Our progress down the Barotse valley was just like this. Every village + gave us an ox, and sometimes two. The people were wonderfully kind. I + felt, and still feel, most deeply grateful, and tried to benefit them in + the only way I could, by imparting the knowledge of that Savior who can + comfort and supply them in the time of need, and my prayer is that he may + send his good Spirit to instruct them and lead them into his kingdom. Even + now I earnestly long to return, and make some recompense to them for their + kindness. In passing them on our way to the north, their liberality might + have been supposed to be influenced by the hope of repayment on our + return, for the white man's land is imagined to be the source of every + ornament they prize most. But, though we set out from Loanda with a + considerable quantity of goods, hoping both to pay our way through the + stingy Chiboque, and to make presents to the kind Balonda and still more + generous Makololo, the many delays caused by sickness made us expend all + my stock, and all the goods my men procured by their own labor at Loanda, + and we returned to the Makololo as poor as when we set out. Yet no + distrust was shown, and my poverty did not lessen my influence. They saw + that I had been exerting myself for their benefit alone, and even my men + remarked, "Though we return as poor as we went, we have not gone in vain." + They began immediately to collect tusks of hippopotami and other ivory for + a second journey. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 25. + </h2> + <p> + Colony of Birds called Linkololo—The Village of Chitlane—Murder + of Mpololo's Daughter—Execution of the Murderer and his Wife—My + Companions find that their Wives have married other Husbands— Sunday—A + Party from Masiko—Freedom of Speech—Canoe struck by a + Hippopotamus—Gonye—Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter—Murky + Atmosphere—Surprising Amount of organic Life—Hornets—The + Packages forwarded by Mr. Moffat—Makololo Suspicions and Reply to + the Matebele who brought them—Convey the Goods to an Island and + build a Hut over them—Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had recognized + the true Form of African Continent—Arrival at Linyanti—A grand + Picho—Shrewd Inquiry— Sekeletu in his Uniform—A + Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory— Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to + them—Difficulties in Trading—Two Makololo Forays during our + Absence—Report of the Country to the N.E.—Death of influential + Men—The Makololo desire to be nearer the Market —Opinions upon + a Change of Residence—Climate of Barotse Valley— Diseases—Author's + Fevers not a fair Criterion in the Matter—The Interior an inviting + Field for the Philanthropist—Consultations about a Path to the East + Coast—Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi— Wait for the + Rainy Season—Native way of spending Time during the period of + greatest Heat—Favorable Opening for Missionary Enterprise—Ben + Habib wishes to marry—A Maiden's Choice—Sekeletu's Hospitality— + Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria—Conversations with Makololo—Their + moral Character and Conduct—Sekeletu wishes to purchase a + Sugar-mill, etc.—The Donkeys—Influence among the Natives—"Food + fit for a Chief"—Parting Words of Mamire—Motibe's Excuses. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st of July we parted with our kind Libonta friends. We planted + some of our palm-tree seeds in different villages of this valley. They + began to sprout even while we were there, but, unfortunately, they were + always destroyed by the mice which swarm in every hut. + </p> + <p> + At Chitlane's village we collected the young of a colony of the linkololo + ('Anastomus lamalligerus'), a black, long-legged bird, somewhat larger + than a crow, which lives on shellfish ('Ampullaria'), and breeds in + society at certain localities among the reeds. These places are well + known, as they continue there from year to year, and belong to the chiefs, + who at particular times of the year gather most of the young. The produce + of this "harvest", as they call it, which was presented to me, was a + hundred and seventy-five unfledged birds. They had been rather late in + collecting them, in consequence of waiting for the arrival of Mpololo, who + acts the part of chief, but gave them to me, knowing that this would be + pleasing to him, otherwise this colony would have yielded double the + amount. The old ones appear along the Leeambye in vast flocks, and look + lean and scraggy. The young are very fat, and, when roasted, are esteemed + one of the dainties of the Barotse valley. In presents of this kind, as + well as of oxen, it is a sort of feast of joy, the person to whom they are + presented having the honor of distributing the materials of the feast. We + generally slaughtered every ox at the village where it was presented, and + then our friends and we rejoiced together. + </p> + <p> + The village of Chitlane is situated, like all others in the Barotse + valley, on an eminence, over which floods do not rise; but this last year + the water approached nearer to an entire submergence of the whole valley + than has been known in the memory of man. Great numbers of people were now + suffering from sickness, which always prevails when the waters are drying + up, and I found much demand for the medicines I had brought from Loanda. + The great variation of the temperature each day must have a trying effect + upon the health. At this village there is a real Indian banian-tree, which + has spread itself over a considerable space by means of roots from its + branches; it has been termed, in consequence, "the tree with legs" (more + oa maotu). It is curious that trees of this family are looked upon with + veneration, and all the way from the Barotse to Loanda are thought to be + preservatives from evil. + </p> + <p> + On reaching Naliele on the 1st of August we found Mpololo in great + affliction on account of the death of his daughter and her child. She had + been lately confined; and her father naturally remembered her when an ox + was slaughtered, or when the tribute of other food, which he receives in + lieu of Sekeletu, came in his way, and sent frequent presents to her. This + moved the envy of one of the Makololo who hated Mpololo, and, wishing to + vex him, he entered the daughter's hut by night, and strangled both her + and her child. He then tried to make fire in the hut and burn it, so that + the murder might not be known; but the squeaking noise of rubbing the + sticks awakened a servant, and the murderer was detected. Both he and his + wife were thrown into the river; the latter having "known of her husband's + intentions, and not revealing them." She declared she had dissuaded him + from the crime, and, had any one interposed a word, she might have been + spared. + </p> + <p> + Mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply us with other canoes, and + we left Shinte's with him. The Mambowe were well received, and departed + with friendly messages to their chief Masiko. My men were exceedingly + delighted with the cordial reception we met with every where; but a source + of annoyance was found where it was not expected. Many of their wives had + married other men during our two years' absence. Mashauana's wife, who had + borne him two children, was among the number. He wished to appear not to + feel it much, saying, "Why, wives are as plentiful as grass, and I can get + another: she may go;" but he would add, "If I had that fellow, I would + open his ears for him." As most of them had more wives than one, I tried + to console them by saying that they had still more than I had, and that + they had enough yet; but they felt the reflection to be galling, that + while they were toiling, another had been devouring their corn. Some of + their wives came with very young infants in their arms. This excited no + discontent; and for some I had to speak to the chief to order the men, who + had married the only wives some of my companions ever had, to restore + them. + </p> + <p> + SUNDAY, AUGUST 5TH. A large audience listened most attentively to my + morning address. Surely some will remember the ideas conveyed, and pray to + our merciful Father, who would never have thought of Him but for this + visit. The invariably kind and respectful treatment I have received from + these, and many other heathen tribes in this central country, together + with the attentive observations of many years, have led me to the belief + that, if one exerts himself for their good, he will never be ill treated. + There may be opposition to his doctrine, but none to the man himself. + </p> + <p> + While still at Naliele, a party which had been sent after me by Masiko + arrived. He was much disappointed because I had not visited him. They + brought an elephant's tusk, two calabashes of honey, two baskets of maize, + and one of ground-nuts, as a present. Masiko wished to say that he had + followed the injunction which I had given as the will of God, and lived in + peace until his brother Limboa came, captured his women as they went to + their gardens, and then appeared before his stockade. Masiko offered to + lead his men out; but they objected, saying, "Let us servants be killed, + you must not be slain." Those who said this were young Barotse who had + been drilled to fighting by Sebituane, and used shields of ox-hide. They + beat off the party of Limboa, ten being wounded, and ten slain in the + engagement. Limboa subsequently sent three slaves as a self-imposed fine + to Masiko for attacking him. I succeeded in getting the Makololo to treat + the messengers of Masiko well, though, as they regarded them as rebels, it + was somewhat against the grain at first to speak civilly to them. + </p> + <p> + Mpololo, attempting to justify an opposite line of conduct, told me how + they had fled from Sebituane, even though he had given them numbers of + cattle after their subjection by his arms, and was rather surprised to + find that I was disposed to think more highly of them for having asserted + their independence, even at the loss of milk. For this food, all who have + been accustomed to it from infancy in Africa have an excessive longing. I + pointed out how they might be mutually beneficial to each other by the + exchange of canoes and cattle. + </p> + <p> + There are some very old Barotse living here who were the companions of the + old chief Santuru. These men, protected by their age, were very free in + their comments on the "upstart" Makololo. One of them, for instance, + interrupted my conversation one day with some Makololo gentlemen with the + advice "not to believe them, for they were only a set of thieves;" and it + was taken in quite a good-natured way. It is remarkable that none of the + ancients here had any tradition of an earthquake having occurred in this + region. Their quick perception of events recognizable by the senses, and + retentiveness of memory, render it probable that no perceptible movement + of the earth has taken place between 7 Deg. and 27 Deg. S. in the centre + of the continent during the last two centuries at least. There is no + appearance of recent fracture or disturbance of rocks to be seen in the + central country, except the falls of Gonye; nor is there any evidence or + tradition of hurricanes. + </p> + <p> + I left Naliele on the 13th of August, and, when proceeding along the shore + at midday, a hippopotamus struck the canoe with her forehead, lifting one + half of it quite out of the water, so as nearly to overturn it. The force + of the butt she gave tilted Mashauana out into the river; the rest of us + sprang to the shore, which was only about ten yards off. Glancing back, I + saw her come to the surface a short way off, and look to the canoe, as if + to see if she had done much mischief. It was a female, whose young one had + been speared the day before. No damage was done except wetting person and + goods. This is so unusual an occurrence, when the precaution is taken to + coast along the shore, that my men exclaimed, "Is the beast mad?" There + were eight of us in the canoe at the time, and the shake it received shows + the immense power of this animal in the water. + </p> + <p> + On reaching Gonye, Mokwala, the head man, having presented me with a tusk, + I gave it to Pitsane, as he was eagerly collecting ivory for the Loanda + market. The rocks of Gonye are reddish gray sandstone, nearly horizontal, + and perforated by madrepores, the holes showing the course of the insect + in different directions. The rock itself has been impregnated with iron, + and that hardened, forms a glaze on the surface—an appearance common + to many of the rocks of this country. + </p> + <p> + AUGUST 22D. This is the end of winter. The trees which line the banks + begin to bud and blossom, and there is some show of the influence of the + new sap, which will soon end in buds that push off the old foliage by + assuming a very bright orange color. This orange is so bright that I + mistook it for masses of yellow blossom. There is every variety of shade + in the leaves—yellow, purple, copper, liver-color, and even inky + black. + </p> + <p> + Having got the loan of other canoes from Mpololo, and three oxen as + provision for the way, which made the number we had been presented with in + the Barotse valley amount to thirteen, we proceeded down the river toward + Sesheke, and were as much struck as formerly with the noble river. The + whole scenery is lovely, though the atmosphere is murky in consequence of + the continuance of the smoky tinge of winter. + </p> + <p> + This peculiar tinge of the atmosphere was observed every winter at + Kolobeng, but it was not so observable in Londa as in the south, though I + had always considered that it was owing to the extensive burnings of the + grass, in which hundreds of miles of pasturage are annually consumed. As + the quantity burned in the north is very much greater than in the south, + and the smoky tinge of winter was not observed, some other explanation + than these burnings must be sought for. I have sometimes imagined that the + lowering of the temperature in the winter rendered the vapor in the upper + current of air visible, and imparted this hazy appearance. + </p> + <p> + The amount of organic life is surprising. At the time the river begins to + rise, the 'Ibis religiosa' comes down in flocks of fifties, with + prodigious numbers of other water-fowl. Some of the sand-banks appear + whitened during the day with flocks of pelicans—I once counted three + hundred; others are brown with ducks ('Anas histrionica')—I got + fourteen of these by one shot ('Querquedula Hottentota', Smith), and other + kinds. Great numbers of gulls ('Procellaria turtur', Smith), and several + others, float over the surface. The vast quantity of small birds, which + feed on insects, show that the river teems also with specimens of minute + organic life. In walking among bushes on the banks we are occasionally + stung by a hornet, which makes its nest in form like that of our own wasp, + and hangs it on the branches of trees. The breeding storgh* is so strong + in this insect that it pursues any one twenty or thirty yards who happens + to brush too closely past its nest. The sting, which it tries to inflict + near the eye, is more like a discharge of electricity from a powerful + machine, or a violent blow, than aught else. It produces momentary + insensibility, and is followed by the most pungent pain. Yet this insect + is quite timid when away from its nest. It is named Murotuani by the + Bechuanas. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * (Greek) sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta. +</pre> + <p> + We have tsetse between Nameta and Sekhosi. An insect of prey, about an + inch in length, long-legged and gaunt-looking, may be observed flying + about and lighting upon the bare ground. It is a tiger in its way, for it + springs upon tsetse and other flies, and, sucking out their blood, throws + the bodies aside. + </p> + <p> + Long before reaching Sesheke we had been informed that a party of + Matebele, the people of Mosilikatse, had brought some packages of goods + for me to the south bank of the river, near the Victoria Falls, and, + though they declared that they had been sent by Mr. Moffat, the Makololo + had refused to credit the statement of their sworn enemies. They imagined + that the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick, whereby to place + witchcraft-medicine into the hands of the Makololo. When the Matebele on + the south bank called to the Makololo on the north to come over in canoes + and receive the goods sent by Moffat to "Nake", the Makololo replied, "Go + along with you, we know better than that; how could he tell Moffat to send + his things here, he having gone away to the north?" The Matebele answered, + "Here are the goods; we place them now before you, and if you leave them + to perish the guilt will be yours." When they had departed the Makololo + thought better of it, and, after much divination, went over with fear and + trembling, and carried the packages carefully to an island in the middle + of the stream; then, building a hut over them to protect them from the + weather, they left them; and there I found they had remained from + September, 1854, till September, 1855, in perfect safety. Here, as I had + often experienced before, I found the news was very old, and had lost much + of its interest by keeping, but there were some good eatables from Mrs. + Moffat. Among other things, I discovered that my friend, Sir Roderick + Murchison, while in his study in London, had arrived at the same + conclusion respecting the form of the African continent as I had lately + come to on the spot (see note p. 512 [footnote to Chapter 24 Paragraph + 7]); and that, from the attentive study of the geological map of Mr. Bain + and other materials, some of which were furnished by the discoveries of + Mr. Oswell and myself, he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar + configuration as an hypothesis in his discourse before the Geographical + Society in 1852, but had even the assurance to send me out a copy for my + information! There was not much use in nursing my chagrin at being thus + fairly "cut out" by the man who had foretold the existence of the + Australian gold before its discovery, for here it was in black and white. + In his easy-chair he had forestalled me by three years, though I had been + working hard through jungle, marsh, and fever, and, since the light dawned + on my mind at Dilolo, had been cherishing the pleasing delusion that I + should be the first to suggest the idea that the interior of Africa was a + watery plateau of less elevation than flanking hilly ranges. + </p> + <p> + Having waited a few days at Sesheke till the horses which we had left at + Linyanti should arrive, we proceeded to that town, and found the wagon, + and every thing we had left in November, 1853, perfectly safe. A grand + meeting of all the people was called to receive our report, and the + articles which had been sent by the governor and merchants of Loanda. I + explained that none of these were my property, but that they were sent to + show the friendly feelings of the white men, and their eagerness to enter + into commercial relations with the Makololo. I then requested my + companions to give a true account of what they had seen. The wonderful + things lost nothing in the telling, the climax always being that they had + finished the whole world, and had turned only when there was no more land. + One glib old gentleman asked, "Then you reached Ma Robert (Mrs. L.)?" They + were obliged to confess that she lived a little beyond the world. The + presents were received with expressions of great satisfaction and delight; + and on Sunday, when Sekeletu made his appearance at church in his uniform, + it attracted more attention than the sermon; and the kind expressions they + made use of respecting myself were so very flattering that I felt inclined + to shut my eyes. Their private opinion must have tallied with their public + report, for I very soon received offers from volunteers to accompany me to + the east coast. They said they wished to be able to return and relate + strange things like my recent companions; and Sekeletu immediately made + arrangements with the Arab Ben Habib to conduct a fresh party with a load + of ivory to Loanda. These, he said, must go with him and learn to trade: + they were not to have any thing to do in the disposal of the ivory, but + simply look and learn. My companions were to remain and rest themselves, + and then return to Loanda when the others had come home. Sekeletu + consulted me as to sending presents back to the governor and merchants of + Loanda, but, not possessing much confidence in this Arab, I advised him to + send a present by Pitsane, as he knew who ought to receive it. + </p> + <p> + Since my arrival in England, information has been received from Mr. + Gabriel that this party had arrived on the west coast, but that the ivory + had been disposed of to some Portuguese merchants in the interior, and the + men had been obliged to carry it down to Loanda. They had not been + introduced to Mr. Gabriel, but that gentleman, having learned that they + were in the city, went to them, and pronounced the names Pitsane, + Mashauana, when all started up and crowded round him. When Mr. G. obtained + an interpreter, he learned that they had been ordered by Sekeletu to be + sure and go to my brother, as he termed him. Mr. G. behaved in the same + liberal manner as he had done to my companions, and they departed for + their distant home after bidding him a formal and affectionate adieu. + </p> + <p> + It was to be expected that they would be imposed upon in their first + attempt at trading, but I believe that this could not be so easily + repeated. It is, however, unfortunate that in dealing with the natives in + the interior there is no attempt made at the establishment of fair prices. + The trader shows a quantity of goods, the native asks for more, and more + is given. The native, being ignorant of the value of the goods or of his + ivory, tries what another demand will bring. After some haggling, an + addition is made, and that bargain is concluded to the satisfaction of + both parties. Another trader comes, and perhaps offers more than the + first; the customary demand for an addition is made, and he yields. The + natives by this time are beginning to believe that the more they ask the + more they will get: they continue to urge, the trader bursts into a rage, + and the trade is stopped, to be renewed next day by a higher offer. The + natives naturally conclude that they were right the day before, and a most + disagreeable commercial intercourse is established. A great amount of time + is spent in concluding these bargains. In other parts, it is quite common + to see the natives going from one trader to another till they have + finished the whole village; and some give presents of brandy to tempt + their custom. Much of this unpleasant state of feeling between natives and + Europeans results from the commencements made by those who were ignorant + of the language, and from the want of education being given at the same + time. + </p> + <p> + During the time of our absence at Loanda, the Makololo had made two + forays, and captured large herds of cattle. One, to the lake, was in order + to punish Lechulatebe for the insolence he had manifested after procuring + some fire-arms; and the other to Sebola Makwaia, a chief living far to the + N.E. This was most unjustifiable, and had been condemned by all the + influential Makololo. Ben Habib, however, had, in coming from Zanzibar, + visited Sebola Makwaia, and found that the chief town was governed by an + old woman of that name. She received him kindly, and gave him a large + quantity of magnificent ivory, sufficient to set him up as a trader, at a + very small cost; but, his party having discharged their guns, Ben Habib + observed that the female chief and her people were extremely alarmed, and + would have fled and left their cattle in a panic, had he not calmed their + fears. Ben Habib informed the uncle of Sekeletu that he could easily guide + him thither, and he might get a large number of cattle without any + difficulty. This uncle advised Sekeletu to go; and, as the only greatness + he knew was imitation of his father's deeds, he went, but was not so + successful as was anticipated. Sebola Makwaia had fled on hearing of the + approach of the Makololo; and, as the country is marshy and intersected in + every direction by rivers, they could not easily pursue her. They captured + canoes, and, pursuing up different streams, came to a small lake called + "Shuia". Having entered the Loangwa, flowing to the eastward, they found + it advisable to return, as the natives in those parts became more warlike + the further they went in that direction. Before turning, the Arab pointed + out an elevated ridge in the distance, and said to the Makololo, "When we + see that, we always know that we are only ten or fifteen days from the + sea." On seeing him afterward, he informed me that on the same ridge, but + much further to the north, the Banyassa lived, and that the rivers flowed + from it toward the S.W. He also confirmed the other Arab's account that + the Loapula, which he had crossed at the town of Cazembe, flowed in the + same direction, and into the Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + Several of the influential Makololo who had engaged in these marauding + expeditions had died before our arrival, and Nokwane had succumbed to his + strange disease. Ramosantane had perished through vomiting blood from + over-fatigue in the march, and Lerimo was affected by a leprosy peculiar + to the Barotse valley. In accordance with the advice of my Libonta + friends, I did not fail to reprove "my child Sekeletu" for his marauding. + This was not done in an angry manner, for no good is ever achieved by + fierce denunciations. Motibe, his father-in-law, said to me, "Scold him + much, but don't let others hear you." + </p> + <p> + The Makololo expressed great satisfaction with the route we had opened up + to the west, and soon after our arrival a "picho" was called, in order to + discuss the question of removal to the Barotse valley, so that they might + be nearer the market. Some of the older men objected to abandoning the + line of defense afforded by the rivers Chobe and Zambesi against their + southern enemies the Matebele. The Makololo generally have an aversion to + the Barotse valley, on account of the fevers which are annually engendered + in it as the waters dry up. They prefer it only as a cattle station; for, + though the herds are frequently thinned by an epidemic disease + (peripneumonia), they breed so fast that the losses are soon made good. + Wherever else the Makololo go, they always leave a portion of their stock + in the charge of herdsmen in that prolific valley. Some of the younger men + objected to removal, because the rankness of the grass at the Barotse did + not allow of their running fast, and because there "it never becomes + cool." + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu at last stood up, and, addressing me, said, "I am perfectly + satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of the path which you have + opened, and think that we ought to go to the Barotse, in order to make the + way from us to Loanda shorter; but with whom am I to live there? If you + were coming with us, I would remove to-morrow; but now you are going to + the white man's country to bring Ma Robert, and when you return you will + find me near to the spot on which you wish to dwell." I had then no idea + that any healthy spot existed in the country, and thought only of a + convenient central situation, adapted for intercourse with the adjacent + tribes and with the coast, such as that near to the confluence of the + Leeba and Leeambye. + </p> + <p> + The fever is certainly a drawback to this otherwise important missionary + field. The great humidity produced by heavy rains and inundations, the + exuberant vegetation caused by fervid heat in rich moist soil, and the + prodigious amount of decaying vegetable matter annually exposed after the + inundations to the rays of a torrid sun, with a flat surface often covered + by forest through which the winds can not pass, all combine to render the + climate far from salubrious for any portion of the human family. But the + fever, thus caused and rendered virulent, is almost the only disease + prevalent in it. There is no consumption or scrofula, and but little + insanity. Smallpox and measles visited the country some thirty years ago + and cut off many, but they have since made no return, although the former + has been almost constantly in one part or another of the coast. Singularly + enough, the people used inoculation for this disease; and in one village, + where they seem to have chosen a malignant case from which to inoculate + the rest, nearly the whole village was cut off. I have seen but one case + of hydrocephalus, a few of epilepsy, none of cholera or cancer, and many + diseases common in England are here quite unknown. It is true that I + suffered severely from fever, but my experience can not be taken as a fair + criterion in the matter. Compelled to sleep on the damp ground month after + month, exposed to drenching showers, and getting the lower extremities + wetted two or three times every day, living on native food (with the + exception of sugarless coffee, during the journey to the north and the + latter half of the return journey), and that food the manioc roots and + meal, which contain so much uncombined starch that the eyes become + affected (as in the case of animals fed for experiment on pure gluten or + starch), and being exposed during many hours each day in comparative + inaction to the direct rays of the sun, the thermometer standing above 96 + Deg. in the shade—these constitute a more pitiful hygiene than any + missionaries who may follow will ever have to endure. I do not mention + these privations as if I considered them to be "sacrifices", for I think + that the word ought never to be applied to any thing we can do for Him who + came down from heaven and died for us; but I suppose it is necessary to + notice them, in order that no unfavorable opinion may be formed from my + experience as to what that of others might be, if less exposed to the + vicissitudes of the weather and change of diet. + </p> + <p> + I believe that the interior of this country presents a much more inviting + field for the philanthropist than does the west coast, where missionaries + of the Church Missionary, United Presbyterian, and other societies have + long labored with most astonishing devotedness and never-flagging zeal. + There the fevers are much more virulent and more speedily fatal than here, + for from 8 Deg. south they almost invariably take the intermittent or + least fatal type; and their effect being to enlarge the spleen, a + complaint which is best treated by change of climate, we have the remedy + at hand by passing the 20th parallel on our way south. But I am not to be + understood as intimating that any of the numerous tribes are anxious for + instruction: they are not the inquiring spirits we read of in other + countries; they do not desire the Gospel, because they know nothing about + either it or its benefits; but there is no impediment in the way of + instruction. Every head man would be proud of a European visitor or + resident in his territory, and there is perfect security for life and + property all over the interior country. The great barriers which have kept + Africa shut are the unhealthiness of the coast, and the exclusive, + illiberal disposition of the border tribes. It has not within the historic + period been cut into by deep arms of the sea, and only a small fringe of + its population have come into contact with the rest of mankind. Race has + much to do in the present circumstances of nations; yet it is probable + that the unhealthy coast-climate has reacted on the people, and aided both + in perpetuating their own degradation and preventing those more inland + from having intercourse with the rest of the world. It is to be hoped that + these obstacles will be overcome by the more rapid means of locomotion + possessed in the present age, if a good highway can become available from + the coast into the interior. + </p> + <p> + Having found it impracticable to open up a carriage-path to the west, it + became a question as to which part of the east coast we should direct our + steps. The Arabs had come from Zanzibar through a peaceful country. They + assured me that the powerful chiefs beyond the Cazembe on the N.E., viz., + Moatutu, Moaroro, and Mogogo, chiefs of the tribes Batutu, Baroro, and + Bagogo, would have no objection to my passing through their country. They + described the population there as located in small villages like the + Balonda, and that no difficulty is experienced in traveling among them. + They mentioned also that, at a distance of ten days beyond Cazembe, their + path winds round the end of Lake Tanganyenka. But when they reach this + lake, a little to the northwest of its southern extremity, they find no + difficulty in obtaining canoes to carry them over. They sleep on islands, + for it is said to require three days in crossing, and may thus be forty or + fifty miles broad. Here they punt the canoes the whole way, showing that + it is shallow. There are many small streams in the path, and three large + rivers. This, then, appeared to me to be the safest; but my present object + being a path admitting of water rather than land carriage, this route did + not promise so much as that by way of the Zambesi or Leeambye. The + Makololo knew all the country eastward as far as the Kafue, from having + lived in former times near the confluence of that river with the Zambesi, + and they all advised this path in preference to that by the way of + Zanzibar. The only difficulty that they assured me of was that in the + falls of Victoria. Some recommended my going to Sesheke, and crossing over + in a N.E. direction to the Kafue, which is only six days distant, and + descending that river to the Zambesi. Others recommended me to go on the + south bank of the Zambesi until I had passed the falls, then get canoes + and proceed farther down the river. All spoke strongly of the difficulties + of traveling on the north bank, on account of the excessively broken and + rocky nature of the country near the river on that side. And when Ponuane, + who had lately headed a foray there, proposed that I should carry canoes + along that side till we reached the spot where the Leeambye becomes broad + and placid again, others declared that, from the difficulties he himself + had experienced in forcing the men of his expedition to do this, they + believed that mine would be sure to desert me if I attempted to impose + such a task upon them. Another objection to traveling on either bank of + the river was the prevalence of the tsetse, which is so abundant that the + inhabitants can keep no domestic animals except goats. + </p> + <p> + While pondering over these different paths, I could not help regretting my + being alone. If I had enjoyed the company of my former companion, Mr. + Oswell, one of us might have taken the Zambesi, and the other gone by way + of Zanzibar. The latter route was decidedly the easiest, because all the + inland tribes were friendly, while the tribes in the direction of the + Zambesi were inimical, and I should now be obliged to lead a party, which + the Batoka of that country view as hostile invaders, through an enemy's + land; but, as the prospect of permanent water-conveyance was good, I + decided on going down the Zambesi, and keeping on the north bank, because, + in the map given by Bowditch, Tete, the farthest inland station of the + Portuguese, is erroneously placed on that side. Being near the end of + September, the rains were expected daily; the clouds were collecting, and + the wind blew strongly from the east, but it was excessively hot. All the + Makololo urged me strongly to remain till the ground should be cooled by + the rains; and as it was probable that I should get fever if I commenced + my journey now, I resolved to wait. The parts of the country about 17 Deg. + and 18 Deg. suffer from drought and become dusty. It is but the + commencement of the humid region to the north, and partakes occasionally + of the character of both the wet and dry regions. Some idea may be formed + of the heat in October by the fact that the thermometer (protected) stood, + in the shade of my wagon, at 100 Deg. through the day. It rose to 110 Deg. + if unprotected from the wind; at dark it showed 89 Deg.; at 10 o'clock, 80 + Deg.; and then gradually sunk till sunrise, when it was 70 Deg. That is + usually the period of greatest cold in each twenty-four hours in this + region. The natives, during the period of greatest heat, keep in their + huts, which are always pleasantly cool by day, but close and suffocating + by night. Those who are able to afford it sit guzzling beer or boyaloa. + The perspiration produced by copious draughts seems to give enjoyment, the + evaporation causing a feeling of coolness. The attendants of the chief, on + these occasions, keep up a continuous roar of bantering, raillery, + laughing, and swearing. The dance is kept up in the moonlight till past + midnight. The women stand clapping their hands continuously, and the old + men sit admiringly, and say, "It is really very fine." As crowds came to + see me, I employed much of my time in conversation, that being a good mode + of conveying instruction. In the public meetings for worship the people + listened very attentively, and behaved with more decorum than formerly. + They really form a very inviting field for a missionary. Surely the + oft-told tale of the goodness and love of our heavenly Father, in giving + up his own Son to death for us sinners, will, by the power of his Holy + Spirit, beget love in some of these heathen hearts. + </p> + <p> + 1ST OCTOBER. Before Ben Habib started for Loanda, he asked the daughter of + Sebituane in marriage. This is the plan the Arabs adopt for gaining + influence in a tribe, and they have been known to proceed thus cautiously + to form connections, and gradually gain so much influence as to draw all + the tribe over to their religion. I never heard of any persecution, + although the Arabs with whom I came in contact seemed much attached to + their religion. This daughter of Sebituane, named Manchunyane, was about + twelve years of age. As I was the bosom-friend of her father, I was + supposed to have a voice in her disposal, and, on being asked, objected to + her being taken away, we knew not whither, and where we might never see + her again. As her name implies, she was only a little black, and, besides + being as fair as any of the Arabs, had quite the Arab features; but I have + no doubt that Ben Habib will renew his suit more successfully on some + other occasion. In these cases of marriage, the consent of the young women + is seldom asked. A maid-servant of Sekeletu, however, pronounced by the + Makololo to be good-looking, was at this time sought in marriage by five + young men. Sekeletu, happening to be at my wagon when one of these + preferred his suit, very coolly ordered all five to stand in a row before + the young woman, that she might make her choice. Two refused to stand, + apparently, because they could not brook the idea of a repulse, although + willing enough to take her if Sekeletu had acceded to their petition + without reference to her will. Three dandified fellows stood forth, and + she unhesitatingly decided on taking one who was really the best looking. + It was amusing to see the mortification exhibited on the black faces of + the unsuccessful candidates, while the spectators greeted them with a + hearty laugh. + </p> + <p> + During the whole of my stay with the Makololo, Sekeletu supplied my wants + abundantly, appointing some cows to furnish me with milk, and, when he + went out to hunt, sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be given. That + the food was not given in a niggardly spirit may be inferred from the fact + that, when I proposed to depart on the 20th of October, he protested + against my going off in such a hot sun. "Only wait," said he, "for the + first shower, and then I will let you go." This was reasonable, for the + thermometer, placed upon a deal box in the sun, rose to 138 Deg. It stood + at 108 Deg. in the shade by day, and 96 Deg. at sunset. If my experiments + were correct, the blood of a European is of a higher temperature than that + of an African. The bulb, held under my tongue, stood at 100 Deg.; under + that of the natives, at 98 Deg. There was much sickness in the town, and + no wonder, for part of the water left by the inundation still formed a + large pond in the centre. Even the plains between Linyanti and Sesheke had + not yet been freed from the waters of the inundation. They had risen + higher than usual, and for a long time canoes passed from the one place to + the other, a distance of upward of 120 miles, in nearly a straight line. + We found many patches of stagnant water, which, when disturbed by our + passing through them, evolved strong effluvia of sulphureted hydrogen. At + other times these spots exhibit an efflorescence of the nitrate of soda; + they also contain abundance of lime, probably from decaying vegetable + matter, and from these may have emanated the malaria which caused the + present sickness. I have often remarked this effluvium in sickly spots, + and can not help believing but that it has some connection with fever, + though I am quite aware of Dr. MacWilliams's unsuccessful efforts to + discover sulphureted hydrogen, by the most delicate tests, in the Niger + expedition. + </p> + <p> + I had plenty of employment, for, besides attending to the severer cases, I + had perpetual calls on my attention. The town contained at least 7000 + inhabitants, and every one thought that he might come, and at least look + at me. In talking with some of the more intelligent in the evenings, the + conversation having turned from inquiries respecting eclipses of the sun + and moon to that other world where Jesus reigns, they let me know that my + attempts to enlighten them had not been without some small effect. "Many + of the children," said they, "talk about the strange things you bring to + their ears, but the old men show a little opposition by saying, 'Do we + know what he is talking about?'" Ntlaria and others complain of + treacherous memories, and say, "When we hear words about other things, we + hold them fast; but when we hear you tell much more wonderful things than + any we have ever heard before, we don't know how it is, they run away from + our hearts." These are the more intelligent of my Makololo friends. On the + majority the teaching produces no appreciable effect; they assent to the + truth with the most perplexing indifference, adding, "But we don't know," + or, "We do not understand." My medical intercourse with them enabled me to + ascertain their moral status better than a mere religious teacher could + do. They do not attempt to hide the evil, as men often do, from their + spiritual instructors; but I have found it difficult to come to a + conclusion on their character. They sometimes perform actions remarkably + good, and sometimes as strangely the opposite. I have been unable to + ascertain the motive for the good, or account for the callousness of + conscience with which they perpetrate the bad. After long observation, I + came to the conclusion that they are just such a strange mixture of good + and evil as men are every where else. There is not among them an approach + to that constant stream of benevolence flowing from the rich to the poor + which we have in England, nor yet the unostentatious attentions which we + have among our own poor to each other. Yet there are frequent instances of + genuine kindness and liberality, as well as actions of an opposite + character. The rich show kindness to the poor in expectation of services, + and a poor person who has no relatives will seldom be supplied even with + water in illness, and, when dead, will be dragged out to be devoured by + the hyaenas instead of being buried. Relatives alone will condescend to + touch a dead body. It would be easy to enumerate instances of inhumanity + which I have witnessed. An interesting-looking girl came to my wagon one + day in a state of nudity, and almost a skeleton. She was a captive from + another tribe, and had been neglected by the man who claimed her. Having + supplied her wants, I made inquiry for him, and found that he had been + unsuccessful in raising a crop of corn, and had no food to give her. I + volunteered to take her; but he said he would allow me to feed her and + make her fat, and then take her away. I protested against his + heartlessness; and, as he said he could "not part with his child," I was + precluded from attending to her wants. In a day or two she was lost sight + of. She had gone out a little way from the town, and, being too weak to + return, had been cruelly left to perish. Another day I saw a poor boy + going to the water to drink, apparently in a starving condition. This case + I brought before the chief in council, and found that his emaciation was + ascribed to disease and want combined. He was not one of the Makololo, but + a member of a subdued tribe. I showed them that any one professing to + claim a child, and refusing proper nutriment, would be guilty of his + death. Sekeletu decided that the owner of this boy should give up his + alleged right rather than destroy the child. When I took him he was so far + gone as to be in the cold stage of starvation, but was soon brought round + by a little milk given three or four times a day. On leaving Linyanti I + handed him over to the charge of his chief, Sekeletu, who feeds his + servants very well. On the other hand, I have seen instances in which both + men and women have taken up little orphans and carefully reared them as + their own children. By a selection of cases of either kind, it would not + be difficult to make these people appear excessively good or uncommonly + bad. + </p> + <p> + I still possessed some of the coffee which I had brought from Angola, and + some of the sugar which I had left in my wagon. So long as the sugar + lasted, Sekeletu favored me with his company at meals; but the sugar soon + came to a close. The Makololo, as formerly mentioned, were well acquainted + with the sugar-cane, as it is cultivated by the Barotse, but never knew + that sugar could be got from it. When I explained the process by which it + was produced, Sekeletu asked if I could not buy him an apparatus for the + purpose of making sugar. He said that he would plant the cane largely if + he only had the means of making the sugar from it. I replied that I was + unable to purchase a mill, when he instantly rejoined, "Why not take ivory + to buy it?" As I had been living at his expense, I was glad of the + opportunity to show my gratitude by serving him; and when he and his + principal men understood that I was willing to execute a commission, + Sekeletu gave me an order for a sugar-mill, and for all the different + varieties of clothing that he had ever seen, especially a mohair coat, a + good rifle, beads, brass-wire, etc., etc., and wound up by saying, "And + any other beautiful thing you may see in your own country." As to the + quantity of ivory required to execute the commission, I said I feared that + a large amount would be necessary. Both he and his councilors replied, + "The ivory is all your own; if you leave any in the country it will be + your own fault." He was also anxious for horses. The two I had left with + him when I went to Loanda were still living, and had been of great use to + him in hunting the giraffe and eland, and he was now anxious to have a + breed. This, I thought, might be obtained at the Portuguese settlements. + All were very much delighted with the donkeys we had brought from Loanda. + As we found that they were not affected by the bite of the tsetse, and + there was a prospect of the breed being continued, it was gratifying to + see the experiment of their introduction so far successful. The donkeys + came as frisky as kids all the way from Loanda until we began to descend + the Leeambye. There we came upon so many interlacing branches of the + river, and were obliged to drag them through such masses of tangled + aquatic plants, that we half drowned them, and were at last obliged to + leave them somewhat exhausted at Naliele. They excited the unbounded + admiration of my men by their knowledge of the different kinds of plants, + which, as they remarked, "the animals had never before seen in their own + country;" and when the donkeys indulged in their music, they startled the + inhabitants more than if they had been lions. We never rode them, nor yet + the horse which had been given by the bishop, for fear of hurting them by + any work. + </p> + <p> + Although the Makololo were so confiding, the reader must not imagine that + they would be so to every individual who might visit them. Much of my + influence depended upon the good name given me by the Bakwains, and that I + secured only through a long course of tolerably good conduct. No one ever + gains much influence in this country without purity and uprightness. The + acts of a stranger are keenly scrutinized by both young and old, and + seldom is the judgment pronounced, even by the heathen, unfair or + uncharitable. I have heard women speaking in admiration of a white man + because he was pure, and never was guilty of any secret immorality. Had he + been, they would have known it, and, untutored heathen though they be, + would have despised him in consequence. Secret vice becomes known + throughout the tribe; and while one, unacquainted with the language, may + imagine a peccadillo to be hidden, it is as patent to all as it would be + in London had he a placard on his back. + </p> + <p> + 27TH OCTOBER, 1855. The first continuous rain of the season commenced + during the night, the wind being from the N.E., as it always was on like + occasions at Kolobeng. The rainy season was thus begun, and I made ready + to go. The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of ground-nuts, by frying + them in cream with a little salt, as a sort of sandwiches for my journey. + This is considered food fit for a chief. Others ground the maize from my + own garden into meal, and Sekeletu pointed out Sekwebu and Kanyata as the + persons who should head the party intended to form my company. Sekwebu had + been captured by the Matebele when a little boy, and the tribe in which he + was a captive had migrated to the country near Tete; he had traveled along + both banks of the Zambesi several times, and was intimately acquainted + with the dialects spoken there. I found him to be a person of great + prudence and sound judgment, and his subsequent loss at the Mauritius has + been, ever since, a source of sincere regret. He at once recommended our + keeping well away from the river, on account of the tsetse and rocky + country, assigning also as a reason for it that the Leeambye beyond the + falls turns round to the N.N.E. Mamire, who had married the mother of + Sekeletu, on coming to bid me farewell before starting, said, "You are now + going among people who can not be trusted because we have used them badly; + but you go with a different message from any they ever heard before, and + Jesus will be with you and help you, though among enemies; and if he + carries you safely, and brings you and Ma Robert back again, I shall say + he has bestowed a great favor upon me. May we obtain a path whereby we may + visit and be visited by other tribes, and by white men!" On telling him my + fears that he was still inclined to follow the old marauding system, which + prevented intercourse, and that he, from his influential position, was + especially guilty in the late forays, he acknowledged all rather too + freely for my taste, but seemed quite aware that the old system was far + from right. Mentioning my inability to pay the men who were to accompany + me, he replied, "A man wishes, of course, to appear among his friends, + after a long absence, with something of his own to show; the whole of the + ivory in the country is yours, so you must take as much as you can, and + Sekeletu will furnish men to carry it." These remarks of Mamire are quoted + literally, in order to show the state of mind of the most influential in + the tribe. And as I wish to give the reader a fair idea of the other side + of the question as well, it may be mentioned that Motibe parried the + imputation of the guilt of marauding by every possible subterfuge. He + would not admit that they had done wrong, and laid the guilt of the wars + in which the Makololo had engaged on the Boers, the Matebele, and every + other tribe except his own. When quite a youth, Motibe's family had been + attacked by a party of Boers; he hid himself in an ant-eater's hole, but + was drawn out and thrashed with a whip of hippopotamus hide. When enjoined + to live in peace, he would reply, "Teach the Boers to lay down their arms + first." Yet Motibe, on other occasions, seemed to feel the difference + between those who are Christians indeed and those who are so only in name. + In all our discussions we parted good friends. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 26. + </h2> + <p> + Departure from Linyanti—A Thunder-storm—An Act of genuine + Kindness— Fitted out a second time by the Makololo—Sail down + the Leeambye— Sekote's Kotla and human Skulls; his Grave adorned + with Elephants' Tusks—Victoria Falls—Native Names—Columns + of Vapor—Gigantic Crack— Wear of the Rocks—Shrines of + the Barimo—"The Pestle of the Gods"— Second Visit to the Falls—Island + Garden—Store-house Island— Native Diviners—A European + Diviner—Makololo Foray—Marauder to be fined—Mambari—Makololo + wish to stop Mambari Slave-trading—Part with Sekeletu—Night + Traveling—River Lekone—Ancient fresh-water Lakes—Formation + of Lake Ngami—Native Traditions—Drainage of the Great Valley—Native + Reports of the Country to the North—Maps—Moyara's Village—Savage + Customs of the Batoka—A Chain of Trading Stations—Remedy + against Tsetse—"The Well of Joy"—First Traces of Trade with + Europeans—Knocking out the front Teeth—Facetious Explanation—Degradation + of the Batoka—Description of the Traveling Party—Cross the + Unguesi—Geological Formation—Ruins of a large Town— + Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola—Abundance of + Fruit. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of November we bade adieu to our friends at Linyanti, + accompanied by Sekeletu and about 200 followers. We were all fed at his + expense, and he took cattle for this purpose from every station we came + to. The principal men of the Makololo, Lebeole, Ntlarie, Nkwatlele, etc., + were also of the party. We passed through the patch of the tsetse, which + exists between Linyanti and Sesheke, by night. The majority of the company + went on by daylight, in order to prepare our beds. Sekeletu and I, with + about forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark. We then went + forward, and about ten o'clock it became so pitchy dark that both horses + and men were completely blinded. The lightning spread over the sky, + forming eight or ten branches at a time, in shape exactly like those of a + tree. This, with great volumes of sheet-lightning, enabled us at times to + see the whole country. The intervals between the flashes were so densely + dark as to convey the idea of stone-blindness. The horses trembled, cried + out, and turned round, as if searching for each other, and every new flash + revealed the men taking different directions, laughing, and stumbling + against each other. The thunder was of that tremendously loud kind only to + be heard in tropical countries, and which friends from India have assured + me is louder in Africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere. Then came + a pelting rain, which completed our confusion. After the intense heat of + the day, we soon felt miserably cold, and turned aside to a fire we saw in + the distance. This had been made by some people on their march; for this + path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and from the + capital. My clothing having gone on, I lay down on the cold ground, + expecting to spend a miserable night; but Sekeletu kindly covered me with + his own blanket, and lay uncovered himself. I was much affected by this + act of genuine kindness. If such men must perish by the advance of + civilization, as certain races of animals do before others, it is a pity. + God grant that ere this time comes they may receive that Gospel which is a + solace for the soul in death! + </p> + <p> + While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve oxen—three of + which were accustomed to being ridden upon—hoes, and beads to + purchase a canoe when we should strike the Leeambye beyond the falls. He + likewise presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and did every + thing in his power to make me comfortable for the journey. I was entirely + dependent on his generosity, for the goods I originally brought from the + Cape were all expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west + coast. I there drew 70 Pounds of my salary, paid my men with it, and + purchased goods for the return journey to Linyanti. These being now all + expended, the Makololo again fitted me out, and sent me on to the east + coast. I was thus dependent on their bounty, and that of other Africans, + for the means of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again from Linyanti to + the east coast, and I feel deeply grateful to them. Coin would have been + of no benefit, for gold and silver are quite unknown. We were here joined + by Moriantsane, uncle of Sekeletu and head man of Sesheke, and, entering + canoes on the 13th, some sailed down the river to the confluence of the + Chobe, while others drove the cattle along the banks, spending one night + at Mparia, the island at the confluence of the Chobe, which is composed of + trap, having crystals of quartz in it coated with a pellicle of green + copper ore. Attempting to proceed down the river next day, we were + detained some hours by a strong east wind raising waves so large as to + threaten to swamp the canoes. The river here is very large and deep, and + contains two considerable islands, which from either bank seem to be + joined to the opposite shore. While waiting for the wind to moderate, my + friends related the traditions of these islands, and, as usual, praised + the wisdom of Sebituane in balking the Batoka, who formerly enticed + wandering tribes to them, and starved them, by compelling the chiefs to + remain by his side till all his cattle and people were ferried over. The + Barotse believe that at certain parts of the river a tremendous monster + lies hid, and that it will catch a canoe, and hold it fast and motionless, + in spite of the utmost exertions of the paddlers. While near Nameta they + even objected to pass a spot supposed to be haunted, and proceeded along a + branch instead of the main stream. They believe that some of them possess + a knowledge of the proper prayer to lay the monster. It is strange to find + fables similar to those of the more northern nations even in the heart of + Africa. Can they be the vestiges of traditions of animals which no longer + exist? The fossil bones which lie in the calcareous tufa of this region + will yet, we hope, reveal the ancient fauna. + </p> + <p> + Having descended about ten miles, we came to the island of Nampene, at the + beginning of the rapids, where we were obliged to leave the canoes and + proceed along the banks on foot. The next evening we slept opposite the + island of Chondo, and, then crossing the Lekone or Lekwine, early the + following morning were at the island of Sekote, called Kalai. This Sekote + was the last of the Batoka chiefs whom Sebituane rooted out. The island is + surrounded by a rocky shore and deep channels, through which the river + rushes with great force. Sekote, feeling secure in his island home, + ventured to ferry over the Matebele enemies of Sebituane. When they had + retired, Sebituane made one of those rapid marches which he always adopted + in every enterprise. He came down the Leeambye from Naliele, sailing by + day along the banks, and during the night in the middle of the stream, to + avoid the hippopotami. When he reached Kalai, Sekote took advantage of the + larger canoes they employ in the rapids, and fled during the night to the + opposite bank. Most of his people were slain or taken captive, and the + island has ever since been under the Makololo. It is large enough to + contain a considerable town. On the northern side I found the kotla of the + elder Sekote, garnished with numbers of human skulls mounted on poles: a + large heap of the crania of hippopotami, the tusks untouched except by + time, stood on one side. At a short distance, under some trees, we saw the + grave of Sekote, ornamented with seventy large elephants' tusks planted + round it with the points turned inward, and there were thirty more placed + over the resting-places of his relatives. These were all decaying from the + effects of the sun and weather; but a few, which had enjoyed the shade, + were in a pretty good condition. I felt inclined to take a specimen of the + tusks of the hippopotami, as they were the largest I had ever seen, but + feared that the people would look upon me as a "resurrectionist" if I did, + and regard any unfavorable event which might afterward occur as a + punishment for the sacrilege. The Batoka believe that Sekote had a pot of + medicine buried here, which, when opened, would cause an epidemic in the + country. These tyrants acted much on the fears of their people. + </p> + <p> + As this was the point from which we intended to strike off to the + northeast, I resolved on the following day to visit the falls of Victoria, + called by the natives Mosioatunya, or more anciently Shongwe. Of these we + had often heard since we came into the country; indeed, one of the + questions asked by Sebituane was, "Have you smoke that sounds in your + country?" They did not go near enough to examine them, but, viewing them + with awe at a distance, said, in reference to the vapor and noise, "Mosi + oa tunya" (smoke does sound there). It was previously called Shongwe, the + meaning of which I could not ascertain. The word for a "pot" resembles + this, and it may mean a seething caldron, but I am not certain of it. + Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were the very first Europeans + who ever visited the Zambesi in the centre of the country, and that this + is the connecting link between the known and unknown portions of that + river, I decided to use the same liberty as the Makololo did, and gave the + only English name I have affixed to any part of the country. No better + proof of previous ignorance of this river could be desired than that an + untraveled gentleman, who had spent a great part of his life in the study + of the geography of Africa, and knew every thing written on the subject + from the time of Ptolemy downward, actually asserted in the "Athenaeum", + while I was coming up the Red Sea, that this magnificent river, the + Leeambye, had "no connection with the Zambesi, but flowed under the + Kalahari Desert, and became lost;" and "that, as all the old maps + asserted, the Zambesi took its rise in the very hills to which we have now + come." This modest assertion smacks exactly as if a native of Timbuctoo + should declare that the "Thames" and the "Pool" were different rivers, he + having seen neither the one nor the other. Leeambye and Zambesi mean the + very same thing, viz., the RIVER. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu intended to accompany me, but, one canoe only having come instead + of the two he had ordered, he resigned it to me. After twenty minutes' + sail from Kalai we came in sight, for the first time, of the columns of + vapor appropriately called "smoke", rising at a distance of five or six + miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in Africa. Five + columns now arose, and, bending in the direction of the wind, they seemed + placed against a low ridge covered with trees; the tops of the columns at + this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They were white below, + and higher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke very closely. The whole + scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands dotted over the river + are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety of color and form. At + the period of our visit several trees were spangled over with blossoms. + Trees have each their own physiognomy. There, towering over all, stands + the great burly baobab, each of whose enormous arms would form the trunk + of a large tree, beside groups of graceful palms, which, with their + feathery-shaped leaves depicted on the sky, lend their beauty to the + scene. As a hieroglyphic they always mean "far from home", for one can + never get over their foreign air in a picture or landscape. The silvery + mohonono, which in the tropics is in form like the cedar of Lebanon, + stands in pleasing contrast with the dark color of the motsouri, whose + cypress-form is dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. + Some trees resemble the great spreading oak, others assume the character + of our own elms and chestnuts; but no one can imagine the beauty of the + view from any thing witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by + European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in + their flight. The only want felt is that of mountains in the background. + The falls are bounded on three sides by ridges 300 or 400 feet in height, + which are covered with forest, with the red soil appearing among the + trees. When about half a mile from the falls, I left the canoe by which we + had come down thus far, and embarked in a lighter one, with men well + acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing down the centre of the stream + in the eddies and still places caused by many jutting rocks, brought me to + an island situated in the middle of the river, and on the edge of the lip + over which the water rolls. In coming hither there was danger of being + swept down by the streams which rushed along on each side of the island; + but the river was now low, and we sailed where it is totally impossible to + go when the water is high. But, though we had reached the island, and were + within a few yards of the spot, a view from which would solve the whole + problem, I believe that no one could perceive where the vast body of water + went; it seemed to lose itself in the earth, the opposite lip of the + fissure into which it disappeared being only 80 feet distant. At least I + did not comprehend it until, creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down + into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad + Zambesi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a + hundred feet, and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen + or twenty yards. The entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard + basaltic rock from the right to the left bank of the Zambesi, and then + prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or forty miles of hills. + If one imagines the Thames filled with low, tree-covered hills immediately + beyond the tunnel, extending as far as Gravesend, the bed of black + basaltic rock instead of London mud, and a fissure made therein from one + end of the tunnel to the other down through the keystones of the arch, and + prolonged from the left end of the tunnel through thirty miles of hills, + the pathway being 100 feet down from the bed of the river instead of what + it is, with the lips of the fissure from 80 to 100 feet apart, then fancy + the Thames leaping bodily into the gulf, and forced there to change its + direction, and flow from the right to the left bank, and then rush boiling + and roaring through the hills, he may have some idea of what takes place + at this, the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa. In looking + down into the fissure on the right of the island, one sees nothing but a + dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the spot, had two bright + rainbows on it. (The sun was on the meridian, and the declination about + equal to the latitude of the place.) From this cloud rushed up a great jet + of vapor exactly like steam, and it mounted 200 or 300 feet high; there + condensing, it changed its hue to that of dark smoke, and came back in a + constant shower, which soon wetted us to the skin. This shower falls + chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, and a few yards back from the + lip there stands a straight hedge of evergreen trees, whose leaves are + always wet. From their roots a number of little rills run back into the + gulf, but, as they flow down the steep wall there, the column of vapor, in + its ascent, licks them up clean off the rock, and away they mount again. + They are constantly running down, but never reach the bottom. + </p> + <p> + On the left of the island we see the water at the bottom, a white rolling + mass moving away to the prolongation of the fissure, which branches off + near the left bank of the river. A piece of the rock has fallen off a spot + on the left of the island, and juts out from the water below, and from it + I judged the distance which the water falls to be about 100 feet. The + walls of this gigantic crack are perpendicular, and composed of one + homogeneous mass of rock. The edge of that side over which the water falls + is worn off two or three feet, and pieces have fallen away, so as to give + it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That over which the water does not + fall is quite straight, except at the left corner, where a rent appears, + and a piece seems inclined to fall off. Upon the whole, it is nearly in + the state in which it was left at the period of its formation. The rock is + dark brown in color, except about ten feet from the bottom, which is + discolored by the annual rise of the water to that or a greater height. On + the left side of the island we have a good view of the mass of water which + causes one of the columns of vapor to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of + the rock, and forms a thick unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its + whiteness gave the idea of snow, a sight I had not seen for many a day. As + it broke into (if I may use the term) pieces of water, all rushing on in + the same direction, each gave off several rays of foam, exactly as bits of + steel, when burned in oxygen gas, give off rays of sparks. The snow-white + sheet seemed like myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, + each of which left behind its nucleus rays of foam. I never saw the + appearance referred to noticed elsewhere. It seemed to be the effect of + the mass of water leaping at once clear of the rock, and but slowly + breaking up into spray. + </p> + <p> + I have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapor ascending from this + strange abyss. They are evidently formed by the compression suffered by + the force of the water's own fall into an unyielding wedge-shaped space. + Of the five columns, two on the right and one on the left of the island + were the largest, and the streams which formed them seemed each to exceed + in size the falls of the Clyde at Stonebyres when that river is in flood. + This was the period of low water in the Leeambye; but, as far as I could + guess, there was a flow of five or six hundred yards of water, which, at + the edge of the fall, seemed at least three feet deep. I write in the hope + that others, more capable of judging distances than myself, will visit the + scene, and I state simply the impressions made on my mind at the time. I + thought, and do still think, the river above the falls to be one thousand + yards broad; but I am a poor judge of distances on water, for I showed a + naval friend what I supposed to be four hundred yards in the Bay of + Loanda, and, to my surprise, he pronounced it to be nine hundred. I tried + to measure the Leeambye with a strong thread, the only line I had in my + possession, but, when the men had gone two or three hundred yards, they + got into conversation, and did not hear us shouting that the line had + become entangled. By still going on they broke it, and, being carried away + down the stream, it was lost on a snag. In vain I tried to bring to my + recollection the way I had been taught to measure a river by taking an + angle with the sextant. That I once knew it, and that it was easy, were + all the lost ideas I could recall, and they only increased my vexation. + However, I measured the river farther down by another plan, and then I + discovered that the Portuguese had measured it at Tete, and found it a + little over one thousand yards. At the falls it is as broad as at Tete, if + not more so. Whoever may come after me will not, I trust, find reason to + say I have indulged in exaggeration.* With respect to the drawing, it must + be borne in mind that it was composed from a rude sketch as viewed from + the island, which exhibited the columns of vapor only, and a ground plan. + The artist has given a good idea of the scene, but, by way of explanation, + he has shown more of the depth of the fissure than is visible except by + going close to the edge. The left-hand column, and that farthest off, are + the smallest, and all ought to have been a little more tapering at the + tops. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The river is about one mile (1.6 km) wide at the falls, and + plunges over 350 feet at the centre. Livingstone greatly + underestimated both distances.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + The fissure is said by the Makololo to be very much deeper farther to the + eastward; there is one part at which the walls are so sloping that people + accustomed to it can go down by descending in a sitting position. The + Makololo on one occasion, pursuing some fugitive Batoka, saw them, unable + to stop the impetus of their flight at the edge, literally dashed to + pieces at the bottom. They beheld the stream like a "white cord" at the + bottom, and so far down (probably 300 feet) that they became giddy, and + were fain to go away holding on to the ground. + </p> + <p> + Now, though the edge of the rock over which the river falls does not show + wearing more than three feet, and there is no appearance of the opposite + wall being worn out at the bottom in the parts exposed to view, yet it is + probable that, where it has flowed beyond the walls, the sides of the + fissure may have given way, and the parts out of sight may be broader than + the "white cord" on the surface. There may even be some ramifications of + the fissure, which take a portion of the stream quite beneath the rocks; + but this I did not learn. + </p> + <p> + If we take the want of much wear on the lip of hard basaltic rock as of + any value, the period when this rock was riven is not geologically very + remote. I regretted the want of proper means of measuring and marking its + width at the falls, in order that, at some future time, the question + whether it is progressive or not might be tested. It seemed as if a + palm-tree could be laid across it from the island. And if it is + progressive, as it would mark a great natural drainage being effected, it + might furnish a hope that Africa will one day become a healthy continent. + It is, at any rate, very much changed in respect to its lakes within a + comparatively recent period. + </p> + <p> + At three spots near these falls, one of them the island in the middle, on + which we were, three Batoka chiefs offered up prayers and sacrifices to + the Barimo. They chose their places of prayer within the sound of the roar + of the cataract, and in sight of the bright bows in the cloud. They must + have looked upon the scene with awe. Fear may have induced the selection. + The river itself is to them mysterious. The words of the canoe-song are, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The Leeambye! Nobody knows + Whence it comes and whither it goes." +</pre> + <p> + The play of colors of the double iris on the cloud, seen by them elsewhere + only as the rainbow, may have led them to the idea that this was the abode + of Deity. Some of the Makololo, who went with me near to Gonye, looked + upon the same sign with awe. When seen in the heavens it is named "motse + oa barimo"—the pestle of the gods. Here they could approach the + emblem, and see it stand steadily above the blustering uproar below—a + type of Him who sits supreme—alone unchangeable, though ruling over + all changing things. But, not aware of His true character, they had no + admiration of the beautiful and good in their bosoms. They did not imitate + His benevolence, for they were a bloody, imperious crew, and Sebituane + performed a noble service in the expulsion from their fastnesses of these + cruel "Lords of the Isles". + </p> + <p> + Having feasted my eyes long on the beautiful sight, I returned to my + friends at Kalai, and saying to Sekeletu that he had nothing else worth + showing in his country, his curiosity was excited to visit it the next + day. I returned with the intention of taking a lunar observation from the + island itself, but the clouds were unfavorable, consequently all my + determinations of position refer to Kalai. (Lat. 17d 51' 54" S., long. 25d + 41' E.) Sekeletu acknowledged to feeling a little nervous at the + probability* of being sucked into the gulf before reaching the island. His + companions amused themselves by throwing stones down, and wondered to see + them diminishing in size, and even disappearing, before they reached the + water at the bottom. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * In modern American English, the word "possibility" is more + appropriate here, and elsewhere in the text where + "probability" is used.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + I had another object in view in my return to the island. I observed that + it was covered with trees, the seeds of which had probably come down with + the stream from the distant north, and several of which I had seen nowhere + else, and every now and then the wind wafted a little of the condensed + vapor over it, and kept the soil in a state of moisture, which caused a + sward of grass, growing as green as on an English lawn. I selected a spot—not + too near the chasm, for there the constant deposition of the moisture + nourished numbers of polypi of a mushroom shape and fleshy consistence, + but somewhat back—and made a little garden. I there planted about a + hundred peach and apricot stones, and a quantity of coffee-seeds. I had + attempted fruit-trees before, but, when left in charge of my Makololo + friends, they were always allowed to wither, after having vegetated, by + being forgotten. I bargained for a hedge with one of the Makololo, and if + he is faithful, I have great hopes of Mosioatunya's abilities as a + nursery-man. My only source of fear is the hippopotami, whose footprints I + saw on the island. When the garden was prepared, I cut my initials on a + tree, and the date 1855. This was the only instance in which I indulged in + this piece of vanity. The garden stands in front, and, were there no + hippopotami, I have no doubt but this will be the parent of all the + gardens which may yet be in this new country. We then went up to Kalai + again. + </p> + <p> + On passing up we had a view of the hut on the island where my goods had + lain so long in safety. It was under a group of palm-trees, and Sekeletu + informed me that, so fully persuaded were most of the Makololo of the + presence of dangerous charms in the packages, that, had I not returned to + tell them the contrary, they never would have been touched. Some of the + diviners had been so positive in their decisions on the point, that the + men who lifted a bag thought they felt a live kid in it. The diviners + always quote their predictions when they happen to tally with the event. + They declared that the whole party which went to Loanda had perished; and + as I always quoted the instances in which they failed, many of them + refused to throw the "bola" (instruments of divination) when I was near. + This was a noted instance of failure. It would have afforded me equal if + not greater pleasure to have exposed the failure, if such it had been, of + the European diviner whose paper lay a whole year on this island, but I + was obliged to confess that he had been successful with his "bola", and + could only comfort myself with the idea that, though Sir Roderick + Murchison's discourse had lain so long within sight and sound of the + magnificent falls, I had been "cut out" by no one in their discovery. + </p> + <p> + I saw the falls at low water, and the columns of vapor when five or six + miles distant. When the river is full, or in flood, the columns, it is + said, can be seen ten miles off, and the sound is quite distinct somewhat + below Kalai, or about an equal distance. No one can then go to the island + in the middle. The next visitor must bear these points in mind in + comparing his description with mine. + </p> + <p> + We here got information of a foray which had been made by a Makololo man + in the direction we were going. This instance of marauding was so much in + accordance with the system which has been pursued in this country that I + did not wonder at it. But the man had used Sekeletu's name as having sent + him, and, the proof being convincing, he would undoubtedly be fined. As + that would be the first instance of a fine being levied for marauding, I + looked upon it as the beginning of a better state of things. In tribes + which have been accustomed to cattle-stealing, the act is not considered + immoral in the way that theft is. Before I knew the language well, I said + to a chief, "You stole the cattle of so and so." "No, I did not steal + them," was the reply, "I only LIFTED them." The word "gapa" is identical + with the Highland term for the same deed. + </p> + <p> + Another point came to our notice here. Some Mambari had come down thus + far, and induced the Batoka to sell a very large tusk which belonged to + Sekeletu for a few bits of cloth. They had gone among the Batoka who need + hoes, and, having purchased some of these from the people near Sesheke, + induced the others living farther east to sell both ivory and children. + They would not part with children for clothing or beads, but agriculture + with wooden hoes is so laborious, that the sight of the hoes prevailed. + The Makololo proposed to knock the Mambari on the head as the remedy the + next time they came; but on my proposing that they should send hoes + themselves, and thereby secure the ivory in a quiet way, all approved + highly of the idea, and Pitsane and Mohorisi expatiated on the value of + the ivory, their own willingness to go and sell it at Loanda, and the + disgust with which the Mambari whom we met in Angola had looked upon their + attempt to reach the proper market. If nothing untoward happens, I think + there is a fair prospect of the trade in slaves being abolished in a + natural way in this quarter, Pitsane and Mohorisi having again expressed + their willingness to go away back to Loanda if Sekeletu would give them + orders. This was the more remarkable, as both have plenty of food and + leisure at home. + </p> + <p> + 20TH NOVEMBER. Sekeletu and his large party having conveyed me thus far, + and furnished me with a company of 114 men to carry the tusks to the + coast, we bade adieu to the Makololo, and proceeded northward to the + Lekone. The country around is very beautiful, and was once well peopled + with Batoka, who possessed enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came + in former times, with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to this + spot, a general rising took place of the Batoka through the whole country, + in order to "eat him up"; but his usual success followed him, and, + dispersing them, the Makololo obtained so many cattle that they could not + take any note of the herds of sheep and goats. The tsetse has been brought + by buffaloes into some districts where formerly cattle abounded. This + obliged us to travel the first few stages by night. We could not well + detect the nature of the country in the dim moonlight; the path, however, + seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have been the ancient bed + of the Zambesi before the fissure was made. The Lekone now winds in it in + an opposite direction to that in which the ancient river must have flowed. + </p> + <p> + Both the Lekone and Unguesi flow back toward the centre of the country, + and in an opposite direction to that of the main stream. It was plain, + then, that we were ascending the farther we went eastward. The level of + the lower portion of the Lekone is about two hundred feet above that of + the Zambesi at the falls, and considerably more than the altitude of + Linyanti; consequently, when the river flowed along this ancient bed + instead of through the rent, the whole country between this and the ridge + beyond Libebe westward, Lake Ngami and the Zouga southward, and eastward + beyond Nchokotsa, was one large fresh-water lake. There is abundant + evidence of the existence and extent of this vast lake in the longitudes + indicated, and stretching from 17 Deg. to 21 Deg. south latitude. The + whole of this space is paved with a bed of tufa, more or less soft, + according as it is covered with soil, or left exposed to atmospheric + influences. Wherever ant-eaters make deep holes in this ancient bottom, + fresh-water shells are thrown out, identical with those now existing in + the Lake Ngami and the Zambesi. The Barotse valley was another lake of a + similar nature; and one existed beyond Masiko, and a fourth near the + Orange River. The whole of these lakes were let out by means of cracks or + fissures made in the subtending sides by the upheaval of the country. The + fissure made at the Victoria Falls let out the water of this great valley, + and left a small patch in what was probably its deepest portion, and is + now called Lake Ngami. The Falls of Gonye furnished an outlet to the lake + of the Barotse valley, and so of the other great lakes of remote times. + The Congo also finds its way to the sea through a narrow fissure, and so + does the Orange River in the west; while other rents made in the eastern + ridge, as the Victoria Falls and those to the east of Tanganyenka, allowed + the central waters to drain eastward. All the African lakes hitherto + discovered are shallow, in consequence of being the mere 'residua' of very + much larger ancient bodies of water. There can be no doubt that this + continent was, in former times, very much more copiously supplied with + water than at present, but a natural process of drainage has been going on + for ages. Deep fissures are made, probably by the elevation of the land, + proofs of which are seen in modern shells imbedded in marly tufa all round + the coast-line. Whether this process of desiccation is as rapid throughout + the continent as, in a letter to the late Dean Buckland, in 1843, I showed + to have been the case in the Bechuana country, it is not for me to say; + but, though there is a slight tradition of the waters having burst through + the low hills south of the Barotse, there is none of a sudden upheaval + accompanied by an earthquake. The formation of the crack of Mosioatunya is + perhaps too ancient for that; yet, although information of any remarkable + event is often transmitted in the native names, and they even retain a + tradition which looks like the story of Solomon and the harlots, there is + not a name like Tom Earthquake or Sam Shake-the-ground in the whole + country. They have a tradition which may refer to the building of the + Tower of Babel, but it ends in the bold builders getting their crowns + cracked by the fall of the scaffolding; and that they came out of a cave + called "Loey" (Noe?) in company with the beasts, and all point to it in + one direction, viz., the N.N.E. Loey, too, is an exception in the + language, as they use masculine instead of neuter pronouns to it. + </p> + <p> + If we take a glance back at the great valley, the form the rivers have + taken imparts the idea of a lake slowly drained out, for they have cut out + for themselves beds exactly like what we may see in the soft mud of a + shallow pool of rain-water, when that is let off by a furrow. This idea + would probably not strike a person on coming first into the country, but + more extensive acquaintance with the river system certainly would convey + the impression. None of the rivers in the valley of the Leeambye have + slopes down to their beds. Indeed, many parts are much like the Thames at + the Isle of Dogs, only the Leeambye has to rise twenty or thirty feet + before it can overflow some of its meadows. The rivers have each a bed of + low water—a simple furrow cut sharply out of the calcareous tufa + which lined the channel of the ancient lake—and another of + inundation. When the beds of inundation are filled, they assume the + appearance of chains of lakes. When the Clyde fills the holms ("haughs") + above Bothwell Bridge and retires again into its channel, it resembles the + river we are speaking of, only here there are no high lands sloping down + toward the bed of inundation, for the greater part of the region is not + elevated fifty feet above them. Even the rocky banks of the Leeambye below + Gonye, and the ridges bounding the Barotse valley, are not more than two + or three hundred feet in altitude over the general dead level. Many of the + rivers are very tortuous in their course, the Chobe and Simah particularly + so; and, if we may receive the testimony of the natives, they form what + anatomists call 'anastamosis', or a network of rivers. Thus, for instance, + they assured me that if they go up the Simah in a canoe, they can enter + the Chobe, and descend that river to the Leeambye; or they may go up the + Kama and come down the Simah; and so in the case of the Kafue. It is + reputed to be connected in this way with the Leeambye in the north, and to + part with the Loangwa; and the Makololo went from the one into the other + in canoes. And even though the interlacing may not be quite to the extent + believed by the natives, the country is so level and the rivers so + tortuous that I see no improbability in the conclusion that here is a + network of waters of a very peculiar nature. The reason why I am disposed + to place a certain amount of confidence in the native reports is this: + when Mr. Oswell and I discovered the Zambesi in the centre of the + continent in 1851, being unable to ascend it at the time ourselves, we + employed the natives to draw a map embodying their ideas of that river. We + then sent the native map home with the same view that I now mention their + ideas of the river system, namely, in order to be an aid to others in + farther investigations. When I was able to ascend the Leeambye to 14 Deg. + south, and subsequently descend it, I found, after all the care I could + bestow, that the alterations I was able to make in the original native + plan were very trifling. The general idea their map gave was wonderfully + accurate; and now I give, in the larger map appended, their views of the + other rivers, in the hope that they may prove helpful to any traveler who + may pursue the investigation farther. + </p> + <p> + 24TH. We remained a day at the village of Moyara. Here the valley in which + the Lekone flows trends away to the eastward, while our course is more to + the northeast. The country is rocky and rough, the soil being red sand, + which is covered with beautiful green trees, yielding abundance of wild + fruits. The father of Moyara was a powerful chief, but the son now sits + among the ruins of the town, with four or five wives and very few people. + At his hamlet a number of stakes are planted in the ground, and I counted + fifty-four human skulls hung on their points. These were Matebele, who, + unable to approach Sebituane on the island of Loyela, had returned sick + and famishing. Moyara's father took advantage of their reduced condition, + and after putting them to death, mounted their heads in the Batoka + fashion. The old man who perpetrated this deed now lies in the middle of + his son's huts, with a lot of rotten ivory over his grave. One can not + help feeling thankful that the reign of such wretches is over. They + inhabited the whole of this side of the country, and were probably the + barrier to the extension of the Portuguese commerce in this direction. + When looking at these skulls, I remarked to Moyara that many of them were + those of mere boys. He assented readily, and pointed them out as such. I + asked why his father had killed boys. "To show his fierceness," was the + answer. "Is it fierceness to kill boys?" "Yes; they had no business here." + When I told him that this probably would insure his own death if the + Matebele came again, he replied, "When I hear of their coming I shall hide + the bones." He was evidently proud of these trophies of his father's + ferocity, and I was assured by other Batoka that few strangers ever + returned from a visit to this quarter. If a man wished to curry favor with + a Batoka chief, he ascertained when a stranger was about to leave, and + waylaid him at a distance from the town, and when he brought his head back + to the chief, it was mounted as a trophy, the different chiefs vieing with + each other as to which should mount the greatest number of skulls in his + village. + </p> + <p> + If, as has been asserted, the Portuguese ever had a chain of trading + stations across the country from Caconda to Tete, it must have passed + through these people; but the total ignorance of the Zambesi flowing from + north to south in the centre of the country, and the want of knowledge of + the astonishing falls of Victoria, which excite the wonder of even the + natives, together with the absence of any tradition of such a chain of + stations, compel me to believe that they existed only on paper. This + conviction is strengthened by the fact that when a late attempt was made + to claim the honor of crossing the continent for the Portuguese, the only + proof advanced was the journey of two black traders formerly mentioned, + adorned with the name of "Portuguese". If a chain of stations had existed, + a few hundred names of the same sort might easily have been brought + forward; and such is the love of barter among all the central Africans, + that, had there existed a market for ivory, its value would have become + known, and even that on the graves of the chiefs would not have been safe. + </p> + <p> + When about to leave Moyara on the 25th, he brought a root which, when + pounded and sprinkled over the oxen, is believed to disgust the tsetse, so + that it flies off without sucking the blood. He promised to show me the + plant or tree if I would give him an ox; but, as we were traveling, and + could not afford the time required for the experiment, so as not to be + cheated (as I had too often been by my medical friends), I deferred the + investigation till I returned. It is probably but an evanescent remedy, + and capable of rendering the cattle safe during one night only. Moyara is + now quite a dependent of the Makololo, and my new party, not being + thoroughly drilled, forced him to carry a tusk for them. When I relieved + him, he poured forth a shower of thanks at being allowed to go back to + sleep beneath his skulls. + </p> + <p> + Next day we came to Namilanga, or "The Well of Joy". It is a small well + dug beneath a very large fig-tree, the shade of which renders the water + delightfully cool. The temperature through the day was 104 Deg. in the + shade and 94 Deg. after sunset, but the air was not at all oppressive. + This well received its name from the fact that, in former times, marauding + parties, in returning with cattle, sat down here and were regaled with + boyaloa, music, and the lullilooing of the women from the adjacent towns. + </p> + <p> + All the surrounding country was formerly densely peopled, though now + desolate and still. The old head man of the place told us that his father + once went to Bambala, where white traders lived, when our informant was a + child, and returned when he had become a boy of about ten years. He went + again, and returned when it was time to knock out his son's teeth. As that + takes place at the age of puberty, he must have spent at least five years + in each journey. He added that many who went there never returned, because + they liked that country better than this. They had even forsaken their + wives and children; and children had been so enticed and flattered by the + finery bestowed upon them there, that they had disowned their parents and + adopted others. The place to which they had gone, which they named + Bambala, was probably Dambarari, which was situated close to Zumbo. This + was the first intimation we had of intercourse with the whites. The + Barotse, and all the other tribes in the central valley, have no such + tradition as this, nor have either the one or the other any account of a + trader's visit to them in ancient times. + </p> + <p> + All the Batoka tribes follow the curious custom of knocking out the upper + front teeth at the age of puberty. This is done by both sexes; and though + the under teeth, being relieved from the attrition of the upper, grow long + and somewhat bent out, and thereby cause the under lip to protrude in a + most unsightly way, no young woman thinks herself accomplished until she + has got rid of the upper incisors. This custom gives all the Batoka an + uncouth, old-man-like appearance. Their laugh is hideous, yet they are so + attached to it that even Sebituane was unable to eradicate the practice. + He issued orders that none of the children living under him should be + subjected to the custom by their parents, and disobedience to his mandates + was usually punished with severity; but, notwithstanding this, the + children would appear in the streets without their incisors, and no one + would confess to the deed. When questioned respecting the origin of this + practice, the Batoka reply that their object is to be like oxen, and those + who retain their teeth they consider to resemble zebras. Whether this is + the true reason or not, it is difficult to say; but it is noticeable that + the veneration for oxen which prevails in many tribes should here be + associated with hatred to the zebra, as among the Bakwains; that this + operation is performed at the same age that circumcision is in other + tribes; and that here that ceremony is unknown. The custom is so universal + that a person who has his teeth is considered ugly, and occasionally, when + the Batoka borrowed my looking-glass, the disparaging remark would be made + respecting boys or girls who still retained their teeth, "Look at the + great teeth!" Some of the Makololo give a more facetious explanation of + the custom: they say that the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten + her husband's hand, he, in revenge, ordered her front teeth to be knocked + out, and all the men in the tribe followed his example; but this does not + explain why they afterward knocked out their own. + </p> + <p> + The Batoka of the Zambesi are generally very dark in color, and very + degraded and negro-like in appearance, while those who live on the high + lands we are now ascending are frequently of the color of coffee and milk. + We had a large number of the Batoka of Mokwine in our party, sent by + Sekeletu to carry his tusks. Their greater degradation was probably caused + by the treatment of their chiefs—the barbarians of the islands. I + found them more difficult to manage than any of the rest of my companions, + being much less reasonable and impressible than the others. My party + consisted of the head men aforementioned, Sekwebu, and Kanyata. We were + joined at the falls by another head man of the Makololo, named Monahin, in + command of the Batoka. We had also some of the Banajoa under Mosisinyane, + and, last of all, a small party of Bashubia and Barotse under Tuba Mokoro, + which had been furnished by Sekeletu because of their ability to swim. + They carried their paddles with them, and, as the Makololo suggested, were + able to swim over the rivers by night and steal canoes, if the inhabitants + should be so unreasonable as to refuse to lend them. These different + parties assorted together into messes; any orders were given through their + head man, and when food was obtained he distributed it to the mess. Each + party knew its own spot in the encampment; and as this was always placed + so that our backs should be to the east, the direction from whence the + prevailing winds came, no time was lost in fixing the sheds of our + encampment. They each took it in turn to pull grass to make my bed, so I + lay luxuriously. + </p> + <p> + NOVEMBER 26TH. As the oxen could only move at night, in consequence of a + fear that the buffaloes in this quarter might have introduced the tsetse, + I usually performed the march by day on foot, while some of the men + brought on the oxen by night. On coming to the villages under Marimba, an + old man, we crossed the Unguesi, a rivulet which, like the Lekone, runs + backward. It falls into the Leeambye a little above the commencement of + the rapids. The stratified gneiss, which is the underlying rock of much of + this part of the country, dips toward the centre of the continent, but the + strata are often so much elevated as to appear nearly on their edges. + Rocks of augitic trap are found in various positions on it; the general + strike is north and south; but when the gneiss was first seen, near to the + basalt of the falls, it was easterly and westerly, and the dip toward the + north, as if the eruptive force of the basalt had placed it in that + position. + </p> + <p> + We passed the remains of a very large town, which, from the only evidence + of antiquity afforded by ruins in this country, must have been inhabited + for a long period; the millstones of gneiss, trap, and quartz were worn + down two and a half inches perpendicularly. The ivory grave-stones soon + rot away. Those of Moyara's father, who must have died not more than a + dozen years ago, were crumbling into powder; and we found this to be + generally the case all over the Batoka country. The region around is + pretty well covered with forest; but there is abundance of open pasturage, + and, as we are ascending in altitude, we find the grass to be short, and + altogether unlike the tangled herbage of the Barotse valley. + </p> + <p> + It is remarkable that we now meet with the same trees we saw in descending + toward the west coast. A kind of sterculia, which is the most common tree + at Loanda, and the baobab, flourish here; and the tree called moshuka, + which we found near Tala Mungongo, was now yielding its fruit, which + resembles small apples. The people brought it to us in large quantities: + it tastes like a pear, but has a harsh rind, and four large seeds within. + We found prodigious quantities of this fruit as we went along. The tree + attains the height of 15 or 20 feet, and has leaves, hard and glossy, as + large as one's hand. The tree itself is never found on the lowlands, but + is mentioned with approbation at the end of the work of Bowditch. My men + almost lived upon the fruit for many days. + </p> + <p> + The rains had fallen only partially: in many parts the soil was quite dry + and the leaves drooped mournfully, but the fruit-trees are unaffected by a + drought, except when it happens at the time of their blossoming. The + Batoka of my party declared that no one ever dies of hunger here. We + obtained baskets of maneko, a curious fruit, with a horny rind, split into + five pieces: these sections, when chewed, are full of a fine glutinous + matter, and sweet like sugar. The seeds are covered with a yellow silky + down, and are not eaten: the entire fruit is about the size of a walnut. + We got also abundance of the motsouri and mamosho. We saw the Batoka + eating the beans called nju, which are contained in a large square pod; + also the pulp between the seeds of nux vomica, and the motsintsela. Other + fruits become ripe at other seasons, as the motsikiri, which yields an + oil, and is a magnificent tree, bearing masses of dark evergreen leaves; + so that, from the general plenty, one can readily believe the statement + made by the Batoka. We here saw trees allowed to stand in gardens, and + some of the Batoka even plant them, a practice seen nowhere else among + natives. A species of leucodendron abounds. When we meet with it on a spot + on which no rain has yet fallen, we see that the young ones twist their + leaves round during the heat of the day, so that the edge only is exposed + to the rays of the sun; they have then a half twist on the petiole. The + acacias in the same circumstances, and also the mopane ('Bauhania'), fold + their leaves together, and, by presenting the smallest possible surface to + the sun, simulate the eucalypti of Australia. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 27. + </h2> + <p> + Low Hills—Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism—The Plasterer + and its Chloroform—White Ants; their Usefulness—Mutokwane-smoking; + its Effects—Border Territory—Healthy Table-lands—Geological + Formation—Cicadae—Trees—Flowers—River Kalomo—Physical + Conformation of Country—Ridges, sanatoria—A wounded Buffalo + assisted—Buffalo-bird—Rhinoceros-bird—Leaders of Herds—The + Honey-guide—The White Mountain—Mozuma River—Sebituane's + old Home—Hostile Village—Prophetic Phrensy—Food of the + Elephant— Ant-hills—Friendly Batoka—Clothing despised—Method + of Salutation— Wild Fruits—The Captive released—Longings + for Peace—Pingola's Conquests—The Village of Monze—Aspect + of the Country—Visit from the Chief Monze and his Wife—Central + healthy Locations—Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a + white Resident—Fertility of the Soil—Bashukulompo Mode of + dressing their Hair—Gratitude of the Prisoner we released—Kindness + and Remarks of Monze's Sister—Dip of the Rocks—Vegetation—Generosity + of the Inhabitants—Their Anxiety for Medicine—Hooping-cough—Birds + and Rain. + </p> + <p> + NOVEMBER 27TH. Still at Marimba's. In the adjacent country palms abound, + but none of that species which yields the oil; indeed, that is met with + only near the coast. There are numbers of flowers and bulbs just shooting + up from the soil. The surface is rough, and broken into gullies; and, + though the country is parched, it has not that appearance, so many trees + having put forth their fresh green leaves at the time the rains ought to + have come. Among the rest stands the mola, with its dark brownish-green + color and spreading oak-like form. In the distance there are ranges of low + hills. On the north we have one called Kanjele, and to the east that of + Kaonka, to which we proceed to-morrow. We have made a considerable detour + to the north, both on account of our wish to avoid the tsetse and to visit + the people. Those of Kaonka are the last Batoka we shall meet, in + friendship with the Makololo. + </p> + <p> + Walking down to the forest, after telling these poor people, for the first + time in their lives, that the Son of God had so loved them as to come down + from heaven to save them, I observed many regiments of black soldier-ants + returning from their marauding expeditions. These I have often noticed + before in different parts of the country; and as we had, even at Kolobeng, + an opportunity of observing their habits, I may give a short account of + them here. They are black, with a slight tinge of gray, about half an inch + in length, and on the line of march appear three or four abreast; when + disturbed, they utter a distinct hissing or chirping sound. They follow a + few leaders who never carry any thing, and they seem to be guided by a + scent left on the path by the leaders; for, happening once to throw the + water from my basin behind a bush where I was dressing, it lighted on the + path by which a regiment had passed before I began my toilette, and when + they returned they were totally at a loss to find the way home, though + they continued searching for it nearly half an hour. It was found only by + one making a long circuit round the wetted spot. The scent may have + indicated also the propriety of their going in one direction only. If a + handful of earth is thrown on the path at the middle of the regiment, + either on its way home or abroad, those behind it are completely at a loss + as to their farther progress. Whatever it may be that guides them, they + seem only to know that they are not to return, for they come up to the + handful of earth, but will not cross it, though not a quarter of an inch + high. They wheel round and regain their path again, but never think of + retreating to the nest, or to the place where they have been stealing. + After a quarter of an hour's confusion and hissing, one may make a circuit + of a foot round the earth, and soon all follow in that roundabout way. + When on their way to attack the abode of the white ants, the latter may be + observed rushing about in a state of great perturbation. The black + leaders, distinguished from the rest by their greater size, especially in + the region of the sting, then seize the white ants one by one, and inflict + a sting, which seems to inject a portion of fluid similar in effect to + chloroform, as it renders them insensible, but not dead, and only able to + move one or two front legs. As the leaders toss them on one side, the rank + and file seize them and carry them off. + </p> + <p> + One morning I saw a party going forth on what has been supposed to be a + slave-hunting expedition. They came to a stick, which, being inclosed in a + white-ant gallery, I knew contained numbers of this insect; but I was + surprised to see the black soldiers passing without touching it. I lifted + up the stick and broke a portion of the gallery, and then laid it across + the path in the middle of the black regiment. The white ants, when + uncovered, scampered about with great celerity, hiding themselves under + the leaves, but attracted little attention from the black marauders till + one of the leaders caught them, and, applying his sting, laid them in an + instant on one side in a state of coma; the others then promptly seized + them and rushed off. On first observing these marauding insects at + Kolobeng, I had the idea, imbibed from a work of no less authority than + Brougham's Paley, that they seized the white ants in order to make them + slaves; but, having rescued a number of captives, I placed them aside, and + found that they never recovered from the state of insensibility into which + they had been thrown by the leaders. I supposed then that the + insensibility had been caused by the soldiers holding the necks of the + white ants too tightly with their mandibles, as that is the way they seize + them; but even the pupae which I took from the soldier-ants, though placed + in a favorable temperature, never became developed. In addition to this, + if any one examines the orifice by which the black ant enters his + barracks, he will always find a little heap of hard heads and legs of + white ants, showing that these black ruffians are a grade lower than + slave-stealers, being actually cannibals. Elsewhere I have seen a body of + them removing their eggs from a place in which they were likely to be + flooded by the rains; I calculated their numbers to be 1260; they carried + their eggs a certain distance, then laid them down, when others took them + and carried them farther on. Every ant in the colony seemed to be employed + in this laborious occupation, yet there was not a white slave-ant among + them. One cold morning I observed a band of another species of black ant + returning each with a captive; there could be no doubt of their cannibal + propensities, for the "brutal soldiery" had already deprived the white + ants of their legs. The fluid in the stings of this species is of an + intensely acid taste. + </p> + <p> + I had often noticed the stupefaction produced by the injection of a fluid + from the sting of certain insects before. It is particularly observable in + a hymenopterous insect called the "plasterer" ('Pelopaeus Eckloni'), which + in his habits resembles somewhat the mason-bee. It is about an inch and a + quarter in length, jet black in color, and may be observed coming into + houses, carrying in its fore legs a pellet of soft plaster about the size + of a pea. When it has fixed upon a convenient spot for its dwelling, it + forms a cell about the same length as its body, plastering the walls so as + to be quite thin and smooth inside. When this is finished, all except a + round hole, it brings seven or eight caterpillars or spiders, each of + which is rendered insensible, but not killed, by the fluid from its sting. + These it deposits in the cell, and then one of its own larvae, which, as + it grows, finds food quite fresh. The insects are in a state of coma, but + the presence of vitality prevents putridity, or that drying up which would + otherwise take place in this climate. By the time the young insect is full + grown and its wings completely developed, the food is done. It then + pierces the wall of its cell at the former door, or place last filled up + by its parent, flies off, and begins life for itself. The plasterer is a + most useful insect, as it acts as a check on the inordinate increase of + caterpillars and spiders. It may often be seen with a caterpillar or even + a cricket much larger than itself, but they lie perfectly still after the + injection of chloroform, and the plasterer, placing a row of legs on each + side of the body, uses both legs and wings in trailing the victim along. + The fluid in each case is, I suppose, designed to cause insensibility, and + likewise act as an antiseptic, the death of the victims being without + pain. + </p> + <p> + Without these black soldier-ants the country would be overrun by the white + ants; they are so extremely prolific, and nothing can exceed the energy + with which they work. They perform a most important part in the economy of + nature by burying vegetable matter as quickly beneath the soil as the + ferocious red ant does dead animal substances. The white ant keeps + generally out of sight, and works under galleries constructed by night to + screen them from the observation of birds. At some given signal, however, + I never could ascertain what, they rush out by hundreds, and the sound of + their mandibles cutting grass into lengths may be heard like a gentle wind + murmuring through the leaves of the trees. They drag these pieces to the + doors of their abodes, and after some hours' toil leave off work, and many + of the bits of grass may be seen collected around the orifice. They + continue out of sight for perhaps a month, but they are never idle. On one + occasion, a good bundle of grass was laid down for my bed on a spot which + was quite smooth and destitute of plants. The ants at once sounded the + call to a good supply of grass. I heard them incessantly nibbling and + carrying away all that night; and they continued all next day (Sunday), + and all that night too, with unabated energy. They had thus been + thirty-six hours at it, and seemed as fresh as ever. In some situations, + if we remained a day, they devoured the grass beneath my mat, and would + have eaten that too had we not laid down more grass. At some of their + operations they beat time in a curious manner. Hundreds of them are + engaged in building a large tube, and they wish to beat it smooth. At a + signal, they all give three or four energetic beats on the plaster in + unison. It produces a sound like the dropping of rain off a bush when + touched. These insects are the chief agents employed in forming a fertile + soil. But for their labors, the tropical forests, bad as they are now with + fallen trees, would be a thousand times worse. They would be impassable on + account of the heaps of dead vegetation lying on the surface, and emitting + worse effluvia than the comparatively small unburied collections do now. + When one looks at the wonderful adaptations throughout creation, and the + varied operations carried on with such wisdom and skill, the idea of + second causes looks clumsy. We are viewing the direct handiwork of Him who + is the one and only Power in the universe; wonderful in counsel; in whom + we all live, and move, and have our being. + </p> + <p> + The Batoka of these parts are very degraded in their appearance, and are + not likely to improve, either physically or mentally, while so much + addicted to smoking the mutokwane ('Cannabis sativa'). They like its + narcotic effects, though the violent fit of coughing which follows a + couple of puffs of smoke appears distressing, and causes a feeling of + disgust in the spectator. This is not diminished on seeing the usual + practice of taking a mouthful of water, and squirting it out together with + the smoke, then uttering a string of half-incoherent sentences, usually in + self-praise. This pernicious weed is extensively used in all the tribes of + the interior. It causes a species of phrensy, and Sebituane's soldiers, on + coming in sight of their enemies, sat down and smoked it, in order that + they might make an effective onslaught. I was unable to prevail on + Sekeletu and the young Makololo to forego its use, although they can not + point to an old man in the tribe who has been addicted to this indulgence. + I believe it was the proximate cause of Sebituane's last illness, for it + sometimes occasions pneumonia. Never having tried it, I can not describe + the pleasurable effects it is said to produce, but the hashish in use + among the Turks is simply an extract of the same plant, and that, like + opium, produces different effects on different individuals. Some view + every thing as if looking in through the wide end of a telescope, and + others, in passing over a straw, lift up their feet as if about to cross + the trunk of a tree. The Portuguese in Angola have such a belief in its + deleterious effects that the use of it by a slave is considered a crime. + </p> + <p> + NOVEMBER 28TH. The inhabitants of the last of Kaonka's villages complained + of being plundered by the independent Batoka. The tribes in front of this + are regarded by the Makololo as in a state of rebellion. I promised to + speak to the rebels on the subject, and enjoined on Kaonka the duty of + giving them no offense. According to Sekeletu's order, Kaonka gave us the + tribute of maize-corn and ground-nuts, which would otherwise have gone to + Linyanti. This had been done at every village, and we thereby saved the + people the trouble of a journey to the capital. My own Batoka had brought + away such loads of provisions from their homes that we were in no want of + food. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Kaonka we traveled over an uninhabited, gently undulating, + and most beautiful district, the border territory between those who accept + and those who reject the sway of the Makololo. The face of the country + appears as if in long waves, running north and south. There are no rivers, + though water stands in pools in the hollows. We were now come into the + country which my people all magnify as a perfect paradise. Sebituane was + driven from it by the Matebele. It suited him exactly for cattle, corn, + and health. The soil is dry, and often a reddish sand; there are few + trees, but fine large shady ones stand dotted here and there over the + country where towns formerly stood. One of the fig family I measured, and + found to be forty feet in circumference; the heart had been burned out, + and some one had made a lodging in it, for we saw the remains of a bed and + a fire. The sight of the open country, with the increased altitude we were + attaining, was most refreshing to the spirits. Large game abound. We see + in the distance buffaloes, elands, hartebeest, gnus, and elephants, all + very tame, as no one disturbs them. Lions, which always accompany other + large animals, roared about us, but, as it was moonlight, there was no + danger. In the evening, while standing on a mass of granite, one began to + roar at me, though it was still light. The temperature was pleasant, as + the rains, though not universal, had fallen in many places. It was very + cloudy, preventing observations. The temperature at 6 A.M. was 70 Deg., at + midday 90 Deg., in the evening 84 Deg. This is very pleasant on the high + lands, with but little moisture in the air. + </p> + <p> + The different rocks to the westward of Kaonka's, talcose gneiss and white + mica schist, generally dip toward the west, but at Kaonka's, large rounded + masses of granite, containing black mica, began to appear. The outer rind + of it inclines to peel off, and large crystals project on the exposed + surface. + </p> + <p> + In passing through some parts where a good shower of rain has fallen, the + stridulous piercing notes of the cicadae are perfectly deafening; a + drab-colored cricket joins the chorus with a sharp sound, which has as + little modulation as the drone of a Scottish bagpipe. I could not conceive + how so small a thing could raise such a sound; it seemed to make the + ground over it thrill. When cicadae, crickets, and frogs unite, their + music may be heard at the distance of a quarter of a mile. + </p> + <p> + A tree attracted my attention as new, the leaves being like those of an + acacia, but the ends of the branches from which they grew resembled + closely oblong fir-cones. The corn-poppy was abundant, and many of the + trees, flowering bulbs, and plants were identical with those in Pungo + Andongo. A flower as white as the snowdrop now begins to appear, and + farther on it spots the whole sward with its beautiful pure white. A fresh + crop appears every morning, and if the day is cloudy they do not expand + till the afternoon. In an hour or so they droop and die. They are named by + the natives, from their shape, "Tlaku ea pitse", hoof of zebra. I carried + several of the somewhat bulbous roots of this pretty flower till I reached + the Mauritius. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th we crossed the River Kalomo, which is about 50 yards broad, + and is the only stream that never dries up on this ridge. The current is + rapid, and its course is toward the south, as it joins the Zambesi at some + distance below the falls. The Unguesi and Lekone, with their feeders, flow + westward, this river to the south, and all those to which we are about to + come take an easterly direction. We were thus at the apex of the ridge, + and found that, as water boiled at 202 Deg., our altitude above the level + of the sea was over 5000 feet. Here the granite crops out again in great + rounded masses which change the dip of the gneiss and mica schist rocks + from the westward to the eastward. In crossing the western ridge I + mentioned the clay shale or keele formation, a section of which we have in + the valley of the Quango: the strata there lie nearly horizontal, but on + this ridge the granite seems to have been the active agent of elevation, + for the rocks, both on its east and west, abut against it. Both eastern + and western ridges are known to be comparatively salubrious, and in this + respect, as well as in the general aspect of the country, they resemble + that most healthy of all healthy climates, the interior of South Africa, + near and adjacent to the Desert. This ridge has neither fountain nor marsh + upon it, and east of the Kalomo we look upon treeless undulating plains + covered with short grass. From a point somewhat near to the great falls, + this ridge or oblong mound trends away to the northeast, and there + treeless elevated plains again appear. Then again the ridge is said to + bend away from the falls to the southeast, the Mashona country, or rather + their mountains, appearing, according to Mr. Moffat, about four days east + of Matlokotloko, the present residence of Mosilikatse. In reference to + this ridge he makes the interesting remark, "I observed a number of the + Angora goat, most of them being white; and their long soft hair, covering + their entire bodies to the ground, made them look like animals moving + along without feet."* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Moffat's "Visit to Mosilikatse".—Royal Geographical + Society's Journal, vol. xxvi., p. 96. +</pre> + <p> + It is impossible to say how much farther to the north these subtending + ridges may stretch. There is reason to believe that, though the same + general form of country obtains, they are not flanked by abrupt hills + between the latitude 12 Deg. south and the equator. The inquiry is worthy + the attention of travelers. As they are known to be favorable to health, + the Makololo, who have been nearly all cut off by fevers in the valley, + declaring that here they never had a headache, they may even be + recommended as a sanatorium for those whose enterprise leads them into + Africa, either for the advancement of scientific knowledge, or for the + purposes of trade or benevolence. In the case of the eastern ridge, we + have water carriage, with only one short rapid as an obstruction, right up + to its base; and if a quick passage can be effected during the healthy + part of the year, there would be no danger of loss of health during a long + stay on these high lands afterward. How much farther do these high ridges + extend? The eastern one seems to bend in considerably toward the great + falls; and the strike of the rocks indicating that, farther to the N.N.E. + than my investigations extend, it may not, at a few degrees of latitude + beyond, be more than 300 or 350 miles from the coast. They at least merit + inquiry, for they afford a prospect to Europeans of situations superior in + point of salubrity to any of those on the coast; and so on the western + side of the continent; for it is a fact that many parts in the interior of + Angola, which were formerly thought to be unhealthy on account of their + distance inland, have been found, as population advanced, to be the most + healthy spots in the country. Did the great Niger expedition turn back + when near such a desirable position for its stricken and prostrate + members? + </p> + <p> + The distances from top to top of the ridges may be about 10 Deg. of + longitude, or 600 geographical miles. I can not hear of a hill ON either + ridge, and there are scarcely any in the space inclosed by them. The + Monakadze is the highest, but that is not more than a thousand feet above + the flat valley. On account of this want of hills in the part of the + country which, by gentle undulations, leads one insensibly up to an + altitude of 5000 feet above the level of the sea, I have adopted the + agricultural term ridges, for they partake very much of the character of + the oblong mounds with which we are all familiar. And we shall yet see + that the mountains which are met with outside these ridges are only a low + fringe, many of which are not of much greater altitude than even the + bottom of the great central valley. If we leave out of view the greater + breadth of the central basin at other parts, and speak only of the + comparatively narrow part formed by the bend to the westward of the + eastern ridge, we might say that the form of this region is a broad furrow + in the middle, with an elevated ridge about 200 miles broad on either + side, the land sloping thence, on both sides, to the sea. If I am right in + believing the granite to be the cause of the elevation of this ridge, the + direction in which the strike of the rocks trends to the N.N.E. may + indicate that the same geological structure prevails farther north, and + two or three lakes which exist in that direction may be of exactly the + same nature with Lake Ngami, having been diminished to their present size + by the same kind of agency as that which formed the falls of Victoria. + </p> + <p> + We met an elephant on the Kalomo which had no tusks. This is as rare a + thing in Africa as it is to find them with tusks in Ceylon. As soon as she + saw us she made off. It is remarkable to see the fear of man operating + even on this huge beast. Buffaloes abound, and we see large herds of them + feeding in all directions by day. When much disturbed by man they retire + into the densest parts of the forest, and feed by night only. We secured a + fine large bull by crawling close to a herd. When shot, he fell down, and + the rest, not seeing their enemy, gazed about, wondering where the danger + lay. The others came back to it, and, when we showed ourselves, much to + the amusement of my companions, they lifted him up with their horns, and, + half supporting him in the crowd, bore him away. All these wild animals + usually gore a wounded companion, and expel him from the herd; even zebras + bite and kick an unfortunate or a diseased one. It is intended by this + instinct that none but the perfect and healthy ones should propagate the + species. In this case they manifested their usual propensity to gore the + wounded, but our appearance at that moment caused them to take flight, and + this, with the goring being continued a little, gave my men the impression + that they were helping away their wounded companion. He was shot between + the fourth and fifth ribs; the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on + the opposite side, and then lodged beneath the skin. But, though it was + eight ounces in weight, yet he ran off some distance, and was secured only + by the people driving him into a pool of water and killing him there with + their spears. The herd ran away in the direction of our camp, and then + came bounding past us again. We took refuge on a large ant-hill, and as + they rushed by us at full gallop I had a good opportunity of seeing that + the leader of a herd of about sixty was an old cow; all the others allowed + her a full half-length in their front. On her withers sat about twenty + buffalo-birds ('Textor erythrorhynchus', Smith), which act the part of + guardian spirits to the animals. When the buffalo is quietly feeding, this + bird may be seen hopping on the ground picking up food, or sitting on its + back ridding it of the insects with which their skins are sometimes + infested. The sight of the bird being much more acute than that of the + buffalo, it is soon alarmed by the approach of any danger, and, flying up, + the buffaloes instantly raise their heads to discover the cause which has + led to the sudden flight of their guardian. They sometimes accompany the + buffaloes in their flight on the wing, at other times they sit as above + described. + </p> + <p> + Another African bird, namely, the 'Buphaga Africana', attends the + rhinoceros for a similar purpose. It is called "kala" in the language of + the Bechuanas. When these people wish to express their dependence upon + another, they address him as "my rhinoceros", as if they were the birds. + The satellites of a chief go by the same name. This bird can not be said + to depend entirely on the insects on that animal, for its hard, hairless + skin is a protection against all except a few spotted ticks; but it seems + to be attached to the beast, somewhat as the domestic dog is to man; and + while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden flying up of its sentinel, the + rhinoceros, not having keen sight, but an acute ear, is warned by the cry + of its associate, the 'Buphaga Africana'. The rhinoceros feeds by night, + and its sentinel is frequently heard in the morning uttering its + well-known call, as it searches for its bulky companion. One species of + this bird, observed in Angola, possesses a bill of a peculiar scoop or + stone forceps form, as if intended only to tear off insects from the skin; + and its claws are as sharp as needles, enabling it to hang on to an + animal's ear while performing a useful service within it. This sharpness + of the claws allows the bird to cling to the nearly insensible cuticle + without irritating the nerves of pain on the true skin, exactly as a burr + does to the human hand; but in the case of the 'Buphaga Africana' and + 'erythrorhyncha', other food is partaken of, for we observed flocks of + them roosting on the reeds, in spots where neither tame nor wild animals + were to be found. + </p> + <p> + The most wary animal in a herd is generally the "leader". When it is shot + the others often seem at a loss what to do, and stop in a state of + bewilderment. I have seen them attempt to follow each other and appear + quite confused, no one knowing for half a minute or more where to direct + the flight. On one occasion I happened to shoot the leader, a young zebra + mare, which at some former time had been bitten on the hind leg by a + carnivorous animal, and, thereby made unusually wary, had, in consequence, + become a leader. If they see either one of their own herd or any other + animal taking to flight, wild animals invariably flee. The most timid thus + naturally leads the rest. It is not any other peculiarity, but simply this + provision, which is given them for the preservation of the race. The great + increase of wariness which is seen to occur when the females bring forth + their young, causes all the leaders to be at that time females; and there + is a probability that the separation of sexes into distinct herds, which + is annually observed in many antelopes, arises from the simple fact that + the greater caution of the she antelopes is partaken of only by the young + males, and their more frequent flights now have the effect of leaving the + old males behind. I am inclined to believe this, because, though the + antelopes, as the pallahs, etc., are frequently in separate herds, they + are never seen in the act of expelling the males. There may be some other + reason in the case of the elephants; but the male and female elephants are + never seen in one herd. The young males remain with their dams only until + they are full grown; and so constantly is the separation maintained, that + any one familiar with them, on seeing a picture with the sexes mixed, + would immediately conclude that the artist had made it from his + imagination, and not from sight. + </p> + <p> + DECEMBER 2, 1855. We remained near a small hill, called Maundo, where we + began to be frequently invited by the honey-guide ('Cuculus indicator'). + Wishing to ascertain the truth of the native assertion that this bird is a + deceiver, and by its call sometimes leads to a wild beast and not to + honey, I inquired if any of my men had ever been led by this friendly + little bird to any thing else than what its name implies. Only one of the + 114 could say he had been led to an elephant instead of a hive, like + myself with the black rhinoceros mentioned before. I am quite convinced + that the majority of people who commit themselves to its guidance are led + to honey, and to it alone. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d we crossed the River Mozuma, or River of Dila, having traveled + through a beautifully undulating pastoral country. To the south, and a + little east of this, stands the hill Taba Cheu, or "White Mountain", from + a mass of white rock, probably dolomite, on its top. But none of the hills + are of any great altitude. When I heard this mountain described at + Linyanti I thought the glistening substance might be snow, and my + informants were so loud in their assertions of its exceeding great + altitude that I was startled with the idea; but I had quite forgotten that + I was speaking with men who had been accustomed to plains, and knew + nothing of very high mountains. When I inquired what the white substance + was, they at once replied it was a kind of rock. I expected to have come + nearer to it, and would have ascended it; but we were led to go to the + northeast. Yet I doubt not that the native testimony of its being stone is + true. The distant ranges of hills which line the banks of the Zambesi on + the southeast, and landscapes which permit the eye to range over twenty or + thirty miles at a time, with short grass under our feet, were especially + refreshing sights to those who had traveled for months together over the + confined views of the flat forest, and among the tangled rank herbage of + the great valley. + </p> + <p> + The Mozuma, or River of Dila, was the first water-course which indicated + that we were now on the slopes toward the eastern coast. It contained no + flowing water, but revealed in its banks what gave me great pleasure at + the time—pieces of lignite, possibly indicating the existence of a + mineral, namely, coal, the want of which in the central country I had + always deplored. Again and again we came to the ruins of large towns, + containing the only hieroglyphics of this country, worn mill-stones, with + the round ball of quartz with which the grinding was effected. Great + numbers of these balls were lying about, showing that the depopulation had + been the result of war; for, had the people removed in peace, they would + have taken the balls with them. + </p> + <p> + At the River of Dila we saw the spot where Sebituane lived, and Sekwebu + pointed out the heaps of bones of cattle which the Makololo had been + obliged to slaughter after performing a march with great herds captured + from the Batoka through a patch of the fatal tsetse. When Sebituane saw + the symptoms of the poison, he gave orders to his people to eat the + cattle. He still had vast numbers; and when the Matebele, crossing the + Zambesi opposite this part, came to attack him, he invited the Batoka to + take repossession of their herds, he having so many as to be unable to + guide them in their flight. The country was at that time exceedingly rich + in cattle, and, besides pasturage, it is all well adapted for the + cultivation of native produce. Being on the eastern slope of the ridge, it + receives more rain than any part of the westward. Sekwebu had been + instructed to point out to me the advantages of this position for a + settlement, as that which all the Makololo had never ceased to regret. It + needed no eulogy from Sekwebu; I admired it myself, and the enjoyment of + good health in fine open scenery had an exhilarating effect on my spirits. + The great want was population, the Batoka having all taken refuge in the + hills. We were now in the vicinity of those whom the Makololo deem rebels, + and felt some anxiety as to how we should be received. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th we reached their first village. Remaining at a distance of a + quarter of a mile, we sent two men to inform them who we were, and that + our purposes were peaceful. The head man came and spoke civilly, but, when + nearly dark, the people of another village arrived and behaved very + differently. They began by trying to spear a young man who had gone for + water. Then they approached us, and one came forward howling at the top of + his voice in the most hideous manner; his eyes were shot out, his lips + covered with foam, and every muscle of his frame quivered. He came near to + me, and, having a small battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men lest he + might do violence; but they were afraid to disobey my previous orders, and + to follow their own inclination by knocking him on the head. I felt a + little alarmed too, but would not show fear before my own people or + strangers, and kept a sharp look-out on the little battle-axe. It seemed + to me a case of ecstasy or prophetic phrensy, voluntarily produced. I felt + it would be a sorry way to leave the world, to get my head chopped by a + mad savage, though that, perhaps, would be preferable to hydrophobia or + delirium tremens. Sekwebu took a spear in his hand, as if to pierce a bit + of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man if he offered + violence to me. After my courage had been sufficiently tested, I beckoned + with the head to the civil head man to remove him, and he did so by + drawing him aside. This man pretended not to know what he was doing. I + would fain have felt his pulse, to ascertain whether the violent trembling + were not feigned, but had not much inclination to go near the battle-axe + again. There was, however, a flow of perspiration, and the excitement + continued fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. This paroxysm is the + direct opposite of hypnotism, and it is singular that it has not been + tried in Europe as well as clairvoyance. This second batch of visitors + took no pains to conceal their contempt for our small party, saying to + each other, in a tone of triumph, "They are quite a Godsend!" literally, + "God has apportioned them to us." "They are lost among the tribes!" "They + have wandered in order to be destroyed, and what can they do without + shields among so many?" Some of them asked if there were no other parties. + Sekeletu had ordered my men not to take their shields, as in the case of + my first company. We were looked upon as unarmed, and an easy prey. We + prepared against a night attack by discharging and reloading our guns, + which were exactly the same in number (five) as on the former occasion, as + I allowed my late companions to retain those which I purchased at Loanda. + We were not molested, but some of the enemy tried to lead us toward the + Bashukulompo, who are considered to be the fiercest race in this quarter. + As we knew our direction to the confluence of the Kafue and Zambesi, we + declined their guidance, and the civil head man of the evening before then + came along with us. Crowds of natives hovered round us in the forest; but + he ran forward and explained, and we were not molested. That night we + slept by a little village under a low range of hills, which are called + Chizamena. The country here is more woody than on the high lands we had + left, but the trees are not in general large. Great numbers of them have + been broken off by elephants a foot or two from the ground: they thus seem + pollarded from that point. This animal never seriously lessens the number + of trees; indeed, I have often been struck by the very little damage he + does in a forest. His food consists more of bulbs, tubers, roots, and + branches, than any thing else. Where they have been feeding, great numbers + of trees, as thick as a man's body, are seen twisted down or broken off, + in order that they may feed on the tender shoots at the tops. They are + said sometimes to unite in wrenching down large trees. The natives in the + interior believe that the elephant never touches grass, and I never saw + evidence of his having grazed until we came near to Tete, and then he had + fed on grass in seed only; this seed contains so much farinaceous matter + that the natives collect it for their own food. + </p> + <p> + This part of the country abounds in ant-hills. In the open parts they are + studded over the surface exactly as haycocks are in harvest, or heaps of + manure in spring, rather disfiguring the landscape. In the woods they are + as large as round haystacks, 40 or 50 feet in diameter at the base, and at + least 20 feet high. These are more fertile than the rest of the land, and + here they are the chief garden-ground for maize, pumpkins, and tobacco. + </p> + <p> + When we had passed the outskirting villages, which alone consider + themselves in a state of war with the Makololo, we found the Batoka, or + Batonga, as they here call themselves, quite friendly. Great numbers of + them came from all the surrounding villages with presents of maize and + masuka, and expressed great joy at the first appearance of a white man, + and harbinger of peace. The women clothe themselves better than the + Balonda, but the men go 'in puris naturalibus'. They walk about without + the smallest sense of shame. They have even lost the tradition of the + "fig-leaf". I asked a fine, large-bodied old man if he did not think it + would be better to adopt a little covering. He looked with a pitying leer, + and laughed with surprise at my thinking him at all indecent; he evidently + considered himself above such weak superstition. I told them that, on my + return, I should have my family with me, and no one must come near us in + that state. "What shall we put on? we have no clothing." It was considered + a good joke when I told them that, if they had nothing else, they must put + on a bunch of grass. + </p> + <p> + The farther we advanced, the more we found the country swarming with + inhabitants. Great numbers came to see the white man, a sight they had + never beheld before. They always brought presents of maize and masuka. + Their mode of salutation is quite singular. They throw themselves on their + backs on the ground, and, rolling from side to side, slap the outside of + their thighs as expressions of thankfulness and welcome, uttering the + words "Kina bomba." This method of salutation was to me very disagreeable, + and I never could get reconciled to it. I called out, "Stop, stop; I don't + want that;" but they, imagining I was dissatisfied, only tumbled about + more furiously, and slapped their thighs with greater vigor. The men being + totally unclothed, this performance imparted to my mind a painful sense of + their extreme degradation. My own Batoka were much more degraded than the + Barotse, and more reckless. We had to keep a strict watch, so as not to be + involved by their thieving from the inhabitants, in whose country and + power we were. We had also to watch the use they made of their tongues, + for some within hearing of the villagers would say, "I broke all the pots + of that village," or, "I killed a man there." They were eager to recount + their soldier deeds, when they were in company with the Makololo in former + times as a conquering army. They were thus placing us in danger by their + remarks. I called them together, and spoke to them about their folly, and + gave them a pretty plain intimation that I meant to insist upon as + complete subordination as I had secured in my former journey, as being + necessary for the safety of the party. Happily, it never was needful to + resort to any other measure for their obedience, as they all believed that + I would enforce it. + </p> + <p> + In connection with the low state of the Batoka, I was led to think on the + people of Kuruman, who were equally degraded and equally depraved. There a + man scorned to shed a tear. It would have been "tlolo", or transgression. + Weeping, such as Dr. Kane describes among the Esquimaux, is therefore + quite unknown in that country. But I have witnessed instances like this: + Baba, a mighty hunter—the interpreter who accompanied Captain + Harris, and who was ultimately killed by a rhinoceros—sat listening + to the Gospel in the church at Kuruman, and the gracious words of Christ, + made to touch his heart, evidently by the Holy Spirit, melted him into + tears; I have seen him and others sink down to the ground weeping. When + Baba was lying mangled by the furious beast which tore him off his horse, + he shed no tear, but quietly prayed as long as he was conscious. I had no + hand in his instruction: if these Batoka ever become like him, and they + may, the influence that effects it must be divine. + </p> + <p> + A very large portion of this quarter is covered with masuka-trees, and the + ground was so strewed with the pleasant fruit that my men kept eating it + constantly as we marched along. We saw a smaller kind of the same tree, + named Molondo, the fruit of which is about the size of marbles, having a + tender skin, and slight acidity of taste mingled with its sweetness. + Another tree which is said to yield good fruit is named Sombo, but it was + not ripe at this season. + </p> + <p> + DECEMBER 6TH. We passed the night near a series of villages. Before we + came to a stand under our tree, a man came running to us with hands and + arms firmly bound with cords behind his back, entreating me to release + him. When I had dismounted, the head man of the village advanced, and I + inquired the prisoner's offense. He stated that he had come from the + Bashukulompo as a fugitive, and he had given him a wife and garden and a + supply of seed; but, on refusing a demand for more, the prisoner had + threatened to kill him, and had been seen the night before skulking about + the village, apparently with that intention. I declined interceding unless + he would confess to his father-in-law, and promise amendment. He at first + refused to promise to abstain from violence, but afterward agreed. The + father-in-law then said that he would take him to the village and release + him, but the prisoner cried out bitterly, "He will kill me there; don't + leave me, white man." I ordered a knife, and one of the villagers released + him on the spot. His arms were cut by the cords, and he was quite lame + from the blows he had received. + </p> + <p> + These villagers supplied us abundantly with ground-nuts, maize, and corn. + All expressed great satisfaction on hearing my message, as I directed + their attention to Jesus as their Savior, whose word is "Peace on earth, + and good-will to men." They called out, "We are tired of flight; give us + rest and sleep." They of course did not understand the full import of the + message, but it was no wonder that they eagerly seized the idea of peace. + Their country has been visited by successive scourges during the last half + century, and they are now "a nation scattered and peeled." When Sebituane + came, the cattle were innumerable, and yet these were the remnants only, + left by a chief called Pingola, who came from the northeast. He swept + across the whole territory inhabited by his cattle-loving countrymen, + devouring oxen, cows, and calves, without retaining a single head. He + seems to have been actuated by a simple love of conquest, and is an + instance of what has occurred two or three times in every century in this + country, from time immemorial. A man or more energy or ambition than his + fellows rises up and conquers a large territory, but as soon as he dies + the power he built up is gone, and his reign, having been one of terror, + is not perpetuated. This, and the want of literature, have prevented the + establishment of any great empire in the interior of Africa. Pingola + effected his conquests by carrying numbers of smith's bellows with him. + The arrow-heads were heated before shooting into a town, and when a wound + was inflicted on either man or beast, great confusion ensued. After + Pingola came Sebituane, and after him the Matebele of Mosilikatse; and + these successive inroads have reduced the Batoka to a state in which they + naturally rejoice at the prospect of deliverance and peace. + </p> + <p> + We spent Sunday, the 10th, at Monze's village, who is considered the chief + of all the Batoka we have seen. He lives near the hill Kisekise, whence we + have a view of at least thirty miles of open undulating country, covered + with short grass, and having but few trees. These open lawns would in any + other land, as well as this, be termed pastoral, but the people have now + no cattle, and only a few goats and fowls. They are located all over the + country in small villages, and cultivate large gardens. They are said to + have adopted this wide-spread mode of habitation in order to give alarm + should any enemy appear. In former times they lived in large towns. In the + distance (southeast) we see ranges of dark mountains along the banks of + the Zambesi, and are told of the existence there of the rapid named + Kansala, which is said to impede the navigation. The river is reported to + be placid above that as far as the territory of Sinamane, a Batoka chief, + who is said to command it after it emerges smooth again below the falls. + Kansala is the only rapid reported in the river until we come to + Kebrabasa, twenty or thirty miles above Tete. On the north we have + mountains appearing above the horizon, which are said to be on the banks + of the Kafue. + </p> + <p> + The chief Monze came to us on Sunday morning, wrapped in a large cloth, + and rolled himself about in the dust, screaming "Kina bomba," as they all + do. The sight of great naked men wallowing on the ground, though intended + to do me honor, was always very painful; it made me feel thankful that my + lot had been cast in such different circumstances from that of so many of + my fellow-men. One of his wives accompanied him; she would have been + comely if her teeth had been spared; she had a little battle-axe in her + hand, and helped her husband to scream. She was much excited, for she had + never seen a white man before. We rather liked Monze, for he soon felt at + home among us, and kept up conversation during much of the day. One head + man of a village after another arrived, and each of them supplied us + liberally with maize, ground-nuts, and corn. Monze gave us a goat and a + fowl, and appeared highly satisfied with a present of some handkerchiefs I + had got in my supplies left at the island. Being of printed cotton, they + excited great admiration; and when I put a gaudy-colored one as a shawl + about his child, he said that he would send for all his people to make a + dance about it. In telling them that my object was to open up a path + whereby they might, by getting merchandise for ivory, avoid the guilt of + selling their children, I asked Monze, with about 150 of his men, if they + would like a white man to live among them and teach them. All expressed + high satisfaction at the prospect of the white man and his path: they + would protect both him and his property. I asked the question, because it + would be of great importance to have stations in this healthy region, + whither agents oppressed by sickness might retire, and which would serve, + moreover, as part of a chain of communication between the interior and the + coast. The answer does not mean much more than what I know, by other + means, to be the case—that a white man OF GOOD SENSE would be + welcome and safe in all these parts. By uprightness, and laying himself + out for the good of the people, he would be known all over the country as + a BENEFACTOR of the race. None desire Christian instruction, for of it + they have no idea. But the people are now humbled by the scourgings they + have received, and seem to be in a favorable state for the reception of + the Gospel. The gradual restoration of their former prosperity in cattle, + simultaneously with instruction, would operate beneficially upon their + minds. The language is a dialect of the other negro languages in the great + valley; and as many of the Batoka living under the Makololo understand + both it and the Sichuana, missionaries could soon acquire it through that + medium. + </p> + <p> + Monze had never been visited by any white man, but had seen black native + traders, who, he said, came for ivory, not for slaves. He had heard of + white men passing far to the east of him to Cazembe, referring, no doubt, + to Pereira, Lacerda, and others, who have visited that chief. + </p> + <p> + The streams in this part are not perennial; I did not observe one suitable + for the purpose of irrigation. There is but little wood; here and there + you see large single trees, or small clumps of evergreens, but the + abundance of maize and ground-nuts we met with shows that more rain falls + than in the Bechuana country, for there they never attempt to raise maize + except in damp hollows on the banks of rivers. The pasturage is very fine + for both cattle and sheep. My own men, who know the land thoroughly, + declare that it is all garden-ground together, and that the more tender + grains, which require richer soil than the native corn, need no care here. + It is seldom stony. + </p> + <p> + The men of a village came to our encampment, and, as they followed the + Bashukulompo mode of dressing their hair, we had an opportunity of + examining it for the first time. A circle of hair at the top of the head, + eight inches or more in diameter, is woven into a cone eight or ten inches + high, with an obtuse apex, bent, in some cases, a little forward, giving + it somewhat the appearance of a helmet. Some have only a cone, four or + five inches in diameter at the base. It is said that the hair of animals + is added; but the sides of the cone are woven something like basket-work. + The head man of this village, instead of having his brought to a point, + had it prolonged into a wand, which extended a full yard from the crown of + his head. The hair on the forehead, above the ears, and behind, is all + shaven off, so they appear somewhat as if a cap of liberty were cocked + upon the top of the head. After the weaving is performed it is said to be + painful, as the scalp is drawn tightly up; but they become used to it. + Monze informed me that all his people were formerly ornamented in this + way, but he discouraged it. I wished him to discourage the practice of + knocking out the teeth too, but he smiled, as if in that case the fashion + would be too strong for him, as it was for Sebituane. + </p> + <p> + Monze came on Monday morning, and, on parting, presented us with a piece + of a buffalo which had been killed the day before by lions. We crossed the + rivulet Makoe, which runs westward into the Kafue, and went northward in + order to visit Semalembue, an influential chief there. We slept at the + village of Monze's sister, who also passes by the same name. Both he and + his sister are feminine in their appearance, but disfigured by the foolish + custom of knocking out the upper front teeth. + </p> + <p> + It is not often that jail-birds turn out well, but the first person who + appeared to welcome us at the village of Monze's sister was the prisoner + we had released in the way. He came with a handsome present of corn and + meal, and, after praising our kindness to the villagers who had assembled + around us, asked them, "What do you stand gazing at? Don't you know that + they have mouths like other people?" He then set off and brought large + bundles of grass and wood for our comfort, and a pot to cook our food in. + </p> + <p> + DECEMBER 12TH. The morning presented the appearance of a continuous rain + from the north, the first time we had seen it set in from that quarter in + such a southern latitude. In the Bechuana country, continuous rains are + always from the northeast or east, while in Londa and Angola they are from + the north. At Pungo Andongo, for instance, the whitewash is all removed + from the north side of the houses. It cleared up, however, about midday, + and Monze's sister conducted us a mile or two upon the road. On parting, + she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village to send food + to the point where we should sleep. In expressing her joy at the prospect + of living in peace, she said it would be so pleasant "to sleep without + dreaming of any one pursuing them with a spear." + </p> + <p> + In our front we had ranges of hills called Chamai, covered with trees. We + crossed the rivulet Nakachinta, flowing westward into the Kafue, and then + passed over ridges of rocks of the same mica schist which we found so + abundant in Golungo Alto; here they were surmounted by reddish porphyry + and finely laminated felspathic grit with trap. The dip, however, of these + rocks is not toward the centre of the continent, as in Angola, for ever + since we passed the masses of granite on the Kalomo, the rocks, chiefly of + mica schist, dip away from them, taking an easterly direction. A decided + change of dip occurs again when we come near the Zambesi, as will be + noticed farther on. The hills which flank that river now appeared on our + right as a high dark range, while those near the Kafue have the aspect of + a low blue range, with openings between. We crossed two never-failing + rivulets also flowing into the Kafue. The country is very fertile, but + vegetation is nowhere rank. The boiling-point of water being 204 Deg., + showed that we were not yet as low down as Linyanti; but we had left the + masuka-trees behind us, and many others with which we had become familiar. + A feature common to the forests of Angola and Benguela, namely, the + presence of orchilla-weed and lichens on the trees, with mosses on the + ground, began to appear; but we never, on any part of the eastern slope, + saw the abundant crops of ferns which are met with every where in Angola. + The orchilla-weed and mosses, too, were in but small quantities. + </p> + <p> + As we passed along, the people continued to supply us with food in great + abundance. They had by some means or other got a knowledge that I carried + medicine, and, somewhat to the disgust of my men, who wished to keep it + all to themselves, brought their sick children for cure. Some of them I + found had hooping-cough, which is one of the few epidemics that range + through this country. + </p> + <p> + In passing through the woods I for the first time heard the bird called + Mokwa reza, or "Son-in-law of God" (Micropogon sulphuratus?), utter its + cry, which is supposed by the natives to be "pula, pula" (rain, rain). It + is said to do this only before heavy falls of rain. It may be a cuckoo, + for it is said to throw out the eggs of the white-backed Senegal crow, and + lay its own instead. This, combined with the cry for rain, causes the bird + to be regarded with favor. The crow, on the other hand, has a bad repute, + and, when rain is withheld, its nest is sought for and destroyed, in order + to dissolve the charm by which it is supposed to seal up the windows of + heaven. All the other birds now join in full chorus in the mornings, and + two of them, at least, have fine loud notes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 28. + </h2> + <p> + Beautiful Valley—Buffalo—My young Men kill two Elephants—The + Hunt—Mode of measuring Height of live Elephants—Wild Animals + smaller here than in the South, though their Food is more abundant—The + Elephant a dainty Feeder—Semalembue—His Presents—Joy in + prospect of living in Peace—Trade—His People's way of wearing + their Hair—Their Mode of Salutation—Old Encampment—Sebituane's + former Residence—Ford of Kafue—Hippopotami—Hills and + Villages—Geological Formation— Prodigious Quantities of large + Game—Their Tameness—Rains—Less Sickness than in the + Journey to Loanda—Reason—Charge from an Elephant—Vast + Amount of animal Life on the Zambesi—Water of River discolored—An + Island with Buffaloes and Men on it—Native Devices for killing Game—Tsetse + now in Country—Agricultural Industry—An Albino murdered by his + Mother—"Guilty of Tlolo"—Women who make their Mouths "like + those of Ducks"—First Symptom of the Slave-trade on this side—Selole's + Hostility—An armed Party hoaxed—An Italian Marauder slain—Elephant's + Tenacity of Life—A Word to young Sportsmen— Mr. Oswell's + Adventure with an Elephant; narrow Escape—Mburuma's Village—Suspicious + Conduct of his People—Guides attempt to detain us—The Village + and People of Ma Mburuma—Character our Guides give of us. + </p> + <p> + 13TH. The country is becoming very beautiful, and furrowed by deep + valleys; the underlying rocks, being igneous, have yielded fertile soil. + There is great abundance of large game. The buffaloes select open spots, + and often eminences, as standing-places through the day. We crossed the + Mbai, and found in its bed rocks of pink marble. Some little hills near it + are capped by marble of beautiful whiteness, the underlying rock being + igneous. Violent showers occur frequently on the hills, and cause such + sudden sweeping floods in these rivulets, that five of our men, who had + gone to the other side for firewood, were obliged to swim back. The + temperature of the air is lowered considerably by the daily rains. Several + times the thermometer at sunrise has been as low as 68 Deg., and 74 Deg. + at sunset. Generally, however, it stood at from 72 Deg. to 74 Deg. at + sunrise, 90 Deg. to 96 Deg. at midday, and 80 Deg. to 84 Deg. at sunset. + The sensation, however, as before remarked, was not disagreeable. + </p> + <p> + 14TH. We entered a most beautiful valley, abounding in large game. Finding + a buffalo lying down, I went to secure him for our food. Three balls did + not kill him, and, as he turned round as if for a charge, we ran for the + shelter of some rocks. Before we gained them, we found that three + elephants, probably attracted by the strange noise, had cut off our + retreat on that side; they, however, turned short off, and allowed us to + gain the rocks. We then saw that the buffalo was moving off quite briskly, + and, in order not to be entirely balked, I tried a long shot at the last + of the elephants, and, to the great joy of my people, broke his fore leg. + The young men soon brought him to a stand, and one shot in the brain + dispatched him. I was right glad to see the joy manifested at such an + abundant supply of meat. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, while my men were cutting up the elephant, great + numbers of the villagers came to enjoy the feast. We were on the side of a + fine green valley, studded here and there with trees, and cut by numerous + rivulets. I had retired from the noise, to take an observation among some + rocks of laminated grit, when I beheld an elephant and her calf at the end + of the valley, about two miles distant. The calf was rolling in the mud, + and the dam was standing fanning herself with her great ears. As I looked + at them through my glass, I saw a long string of my own men appearing on + the other side of them, and Sekwebu came and told me that these had gone + off saying, "Our father will see to-day what sort of men he has got." I + then went higher up the side of the valley, in order to have a distinct + view of their mode of hunting. The goodly beast, totally unconscious of + the approach of an enemy, stood for some time suckling her young one, + which seemed about two years old; they then went into a pit containing + mud, and smeared themselves all over with it, the little one frisking + about his dam, flapping his ears and tossing his trunk incessantly, in + elephantine fashion. She kept flapping her ears and wagging her tail, as + if in the height of enjoyment. Then began the piping of her enemies, which + was performed by blowing into a tube, or the hands closed together, as + boys do into a key. They call out to attract the animal's attention, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "O chief! chief! we have come to kill you. + O chief! chief! many more will die besides you, etc. + The gods have said it," etc., etc. +</pre> + <p> + Both animals expanded their ears and listened, then left their bath as the + crowd rushed toward them. The little one ran forward toward the end of the + valley, but, seeing the men there, returned to his dam. She placed herself + on the danger side of her calf, and passed her proboscis over it again and + again, as if to assure it of safety. She frequently looked back to the + men, who kept up an incessant shouting, singing, and piping; then looked + at her young one and ran after it, sometimes sideways, as if her feelings + were divided between anxiety to protect her offspring and desire to + revenge the temerity of her persecutors. The men kept about a hundred + yards in her rear, and some that distance from her flanks, and continued + thus until she was obliged to cross a rivulet. The time spent in + descending and getting up the opposite bank allowed of their coming up to + the edge, and discharging their spears at about twenty yards distance. + After the first discharge she appeared with her sides red with blood, and, + beginning to flee for her own life, seemed to think no more of her young. + I had previously sent off Sekwebu with orders to spare the calf. It ran + very fast, but neither young nor old ever enter into a gallop; their + quickest pace is only a sharp walk. Before Sekwebu could reach them, the + calf had taken refuge in the water, and was killed. The pace of the dam + gradually became slower. She turned with a shriek of rage, and made a + furious charge back among the men. They vanished at right angles to her + course, or sideways, and, as she ran straight on, she went through the + whole party, but came near no one except a man who wore a piece of cloth + on his shoulders. Bright clothing is always dangerous in these cases. She + charged three or four times, and, except in the first instance, never went + farther than 100 yards. She often stood after she had crossed a rivulet, + and faced the men, though she received fresh spears. It was by this + process of spearing and loss of blood that she was killed; for at last, + making a short charge, she staggered round and sank down dead in a + kneeling posture. I did not see the whole hunt, having been tempted away + by both sun and moon appearing unclouded. I turned from the spectacle of + the destruction of noble animals, which might be made so useful in Africa, + with a feeling of sickness, and it was not relieved by the recollection + that the ivory was mine, though that was the case. I regretted to see them + killed, and more especially the young one, the meat not being at all + necessary at that time; but it is right to add that I did not feel sick + when my own blood was up the day before. We ought, perhaps, to judge those + deeds more leniently in which we ourselves have no temptation to engage. + Had I not been previously guilty of doing the very same thing, I might + have prided myself on superior humanity when I experienced the nausea in + viewing my men kill these two. + </p> + <p> + The elephant first killed was a male, not full grown; his height at the + withers, 8 feet 4 inches; circumference of the fore foot, 44 inches * 2 = + 7 feet 4 inches. The female was full grown, and measured in height 8 feet + 8 inches; circumference of the fore foot, 48 inches * 2 = 8 feet (96 + inches). We afterward found that full-grown male elephants of this region + ranged in height at the withers from 9 feet 9 inches to 9 feet 10 inches, + and the circumference of the fore foot to be 4 feet 9-1/2 inches * 2 = 9 + feet 7 inches. These details are given because the general rule has been + observed that twice the circumference of the impression made by the fore + foot on the ground is the height of the animal. The print on the ground, + being a little larger than the foot itself, would thus seem to be an + accurate mode of measuring the size of any elephant that has passed; but + the above measurements show that it is applicable only to full-grown + animals. The greater size of the African elephant in the south would at + once distinguish it from the Indian one; but here they approach more + nearly to each other in bulk, a female being about as large as a common + Indian male. But the ear of the African is an external mark which no one + will mistake even in a picture. That of the female now killed was 4 feet 5 + inches in depth, and 4 feet in horizontal breadth. I have seen a native + creep under one so as to be quite covered from the rain. The ear of the + Indian variety is not more than a third of this size. The representation + of elephants on ancient coins shows that this important characteristic was + distinctly recognized of old. Indeed, Cuvier remarked that it was better + known by Aristotle than by Buffon. + </p> + <p> + Having been anxious to learn whether the African elephant is capable of + being tamed, through the kindness of my friend Admiral Smythe I am enabled + to give the reader conclusive evidence on this point. In the two medals + furnished from his work, "A descriptive Catalogue of his Cabinet of Roman + and Imperial large brass Medals", the size of the ears will be at once + noted as those of the true African elephant.* They were even more docile + than the Asiatic, and were taught various feats, as walking on ropes, + dancing, etc. One of the coins is of Faustina senior, the other of Severus + the Seventh, and struck A.D. 197. These elephants were brought from Africa + to Rome. The attempt to tame this most useful animal has never been made + at the Cape, nor has one ever been exhibited in England. There is only one + very young calf of the species in the British Museum. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately these illustrations can not be presented in + this ASCII text. A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + The abundance of food in this country, as compared with the south, would + lead one to suppose that animals here must attain a much greater size; but + actual measurement now confirms the impression made on my mind by the mere + sight of the animals, that those in the districts north of 20 Deg. were + smaller than the same races existing southward of that latitude. The first + time that Mr. Oswell and myself saw full-grown male elephants on the River + Zouga, they seemed no larger than the females (which are always smaller + than males) we had met on the Limpopo. There they attain a height of + upward of 12 feet. At the Zouga the height of one I measured was 11 feet 4 + inches, and in this district 9 feet 10 inches. There is, however, an + increase in the size of the tusks as we approach the equator. + Unfortunately, I never made measurements of other animals in the south; + but the appearance of the animals themselves in the north at once produced + the impression on my mind referred to as to their decrease in size. When + we first saw koodoos, they were so much smaller than those we had been + accustomed to in the south that we doubted whether they were not a new + kind of antelope; and the leche, seen nowhere south of 20 Deg., is + succeeded by the poku as we go north. This is, in fact, only a smaller + species of that antelope, with a more reddish color. A great difference in + size prevails also among domestic animals; but the influence of locality + on them is not so well marked. The cattle of the Batoka, for instance, are + exceedingly small and very beautiful, possessing generally great breadth + between the eyes and a very playful disposition. They are much smaller + than the aboriginal cattle in the south; but it must be added that those + of the Barotse valley, in the same latitudes as the Batoka, are large. The + breed may have come from the west, as the cattle within the influence of + the sea air, as at Little Fish Bay, Benguela, Ambriz, and along that + coast, are very large. Those found at Lake Ngami, with large horns and + standing six feet high, probably come from the same quarter. The goats are + also small, and domestic fowls throughout this country are of a very small + size, and even dogs, except where the inhabitants have had an opportunity + of improving the breed by importation from the Portuguese. As the Barotse + cattle are an exception to this general rule, so are the Barotse dogs, for + they are large, savage-looking animals, though in reality very cowardly. + It is a little remarkable that a decrease in size should occur where food + is the most abundant; but tropical climates seem unfavorable for the full + development of either animals or man. It is not from want of care in the + breeding, for the natives always choose the larger and stronger males for + stock, and the same arrangement prevails in nature, for it is only by + overcoming their weaker rivals that the wild males obtain possession of + the herd. Invariably they show the scars received in battle. The elephant + we killed yesterday had an umbilical hernia as large as a child's head, + probably caused by the charge of a rival. The cow showed scars received + from men; two of the wounds in her side were still unhealed, and there was + an orifice six inches long, and open, in her proboscis, and, as it was + about a foot from the point, it must have interfered with her power of + lifting water. + </p> + <p> + In estimating the amount of food necessary for these and other large + animals, sufficient attention has not been paid to the kinds chosen. The + elephant, for instance, is a most dainty feeder, and particularly fond of + certain sweet-tasted trees and fruits. He chooses the mohonono, the + mimosa, and other trees which contain much saccharine matter, mucilage, + and gum. He may be seen putting his head to a lofty palmyra, and swaying + it to and fro to shake off the seeds; he then picks them up singly and + eats them. Or he may be seen standing by the masuka and other fruit-trees + patiently picking off the sweet fruits one by one. He also digs up bulbs + and tubers, but none of these are thoroughly digested. Bruce remarked upon + the undigested bits of wood seen in their droppings, and he must have + observed, too, that neither leaves nor seeds are changed by passing + through the alimentary canal. The woody fibre of roots and branches is + dropped in the state of tow, the nutritious matter alone having been + extracted. This capability of removing all the nourishment, and the + selection of those kinds of food which contain great quantities of + mucilage and gum, accounts for the fact that herds of elephants produce + but small effect upon the vegetation of a country—quality being more + requisite than quantity. The amount of internal fat found in them makes + them much prized by the inhabitants, who are all very fond of it, both for + food and ointment. + </p> + <p> + After leaving the elephant valley we passed through a very beautiful + country, but thinly inhabited by man. The underlying rock is trap, and + dikes of talcose gneiss. The trap is often seen tilted on its edge, or + dipping a little either to the north or south. The strike is generally to + the northeast, the direction we are going. About Losito we found the trap + had given place to hornblende schist, mica schist, and various schorly + rocks. We had now come into the region in which the appearance of the + rocks conveys the impression of a great force having acted along the bed + of the Zambesi. Indeed, I was led to the belief from seeing the manner in + which the rocks have been thrust away on both sides from its bed, that the + power which formed the crack of the falls had given direction to the river + below, and opened a bed for it all the way from the falls to beyond the + gorge of Lupata. + </p> + <p> + Passing the rivulet Losito, and through the ranges of hills, we reached + the residence of Semalembue on the 18th. His village is situated at the + bottom of ranges through which the Kafue finds a passage, and close to the + bank of that river. The Kafue, sometimes called Kahowhe or Bashukulompo + River, is upward of two hundred yards wide here, and full of hippopotami, + the young of which may be seen perched on the necks of their dams. At this + point we had reached about the same level as Linyanti. + </p> + <p> + Semalembue paid us a visit soon after our arrival, and said that he had + often heard of me, and now that he had the pleasure of seeing me, he + feared that I should sleep the first night at his village hungry. This was + considered the handsome way of introducing a present, for he then handed + five or six baskets of meal and maize, and an enormous one of ground-nuts. + Next morning he gave me about twenty baskets more of meal. I could make + but a poor return for his kindness, but he accepted my apologies politely, + saying that he knew there were no goods in the country from which I had + come, and, in professing great joy at the words of peace I spoke, he said, + "Now I shall cultivate largely, in the hope of eating and sleeping in + peace." It is noticeable that all whom we have yet met eagerly caught up + the idea of living in peace as the probable effect of the Gospel. They + require no explanation of the existence of the Deity. Sekwebu makes use of + the term "Reza", and they appear to understand at once. Like negroes in + general, they have a strong tendency to worship, and I heard that + Semalembue gets a good deal of ivory from the surrounding tribes on + pretense of having some supernatural power. He transmits this to some + other chiefs on the Zambesi, and receives in return English cotton goods + which come from Mozambique by Babisa traders. My men here began to sell + their beads and other ornaments for cotton cloth. Semalembue was + accompanied by about forty people, all large men. They have much wool on + their heads, which is sometimes drawn all together up to the crown, and + tied there in a large tapering bunch. The forehead and round by the ears + is shaven close to the base of this tuft. Others draw out the hair on one + side, and twist it into little strings. The rest is taken over, and hangs + above the ear, which gives the appearance of having a cap cocked jauntily + on the side of the head. + </p> + <p> + The mode of salutation is by clapping the hands. Various parties of women + came from the surrounding villages to see the white man, but all seemed + very much afraid. Their fear, which I seldom could allay, made them, when + addressed, clap their hands with increasing vigor. Sekwebu was the only + one of the Makololo who knew this part of the country; and this was the + region which to his mind was best adapted for the residence of a tribe. + The natives generally have a good idea of the nature of the soil and + pasturage, and Sekwebu expatiated with great eloquence on the capabilities + of this part for supplying the wants of the Makololo. There is certainly + abundance of room at present in the country for thousands and thousands + more of population. + </p> + <p> + We passed near the Losito, a former encampment of the Matebele, with whom + Sekwebu had lived. At the sight of the bones of the oxen they had + devoured, and the spot where savage dances had taken place, though all + deserted now, the poor fellow burst out into a wild Matebele song. He + pointed out also a district, about two days and a half west of Semalembue, + where Sebituane had formerly dwelt. There is a hot fountain on the hills + there named "Nakalombo", which may be seen at a distance emitting steam. + "There," said Sekwebu, "had your Molekane (Sebituane) been alive, he would + have brought you to live with him. You would be on the bank of the river, + and, by taking canoes, you would at once sail down to the Zambesi, and + visit the white people at the sea." + </p> + <p> + This part is a favorite one with the Makololo, and probably it would be a + good one in which to form a centre of civilization. There is a large, flat + district of country to the north, said to be peopled by the Bashukulompo + and other tribes, who cultivate the ground to a great extent, and raise + vast quantities of grain, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, etc. They also grow + sugar-cane. If they were certain of a market, I believe they would not be + unwilling to cultivate cotton too, but they have not been accustomed to + the peaceful pursuits of commerce. All are fond of trade, but they have + been taught none save that in ivory and slaves. + </p> + <p> + The Kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of Semalembue; as the + hill on the north is called Bolengwe, I apply that name to the gorge (lat. + 15d 48' 19" S., long. 28d 22' E.). Semalembue said that he ought to see us + over the river, so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile south of his + village, and when we entered among the hills we found the ford of the + Kafue. On parting with Semalembue I put on him a shirt, and he went away + with it apparently much delighted. + </p> + <p> + The ford was at least 250 yards broad, but rocky and shallow. After + crossing it in a canoe, we went along the left bank, and were completely + shut in by high hills. Every available spot between the river and the + hills is under cultivation; and the residence of the people here is + intended to secure safety for themselves and their gardens from their + enemies; there is plenty of garden-ground outside the hills; here they are + obliged to make pitfalls to protect the grain against the hippopotami. As + these animals had not been disturbed by guns, they were remarkably tame, + and took no notice of our passing. We again saw numbers of young ones, not + much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the necks of their dams, the + little saucy-looking heads cocking up between the old one's ears; as they + become a little older they sit on the withers. Needing meat, we shot a + full-grown cow, and found, as we had often done before, the flesh to be + very much like pork. The height of this animal was 4 feet 10 inches, and + from the point of the nose to the root of the tail 10 feet 6. They seem + quarrelsome, for both males and females are found covered with scars, and + young males are often killed by the elder ones: we met an instance of this + near the falls. + </p> + <p> + We came to a great many little villages among the hills, as if the + inhabitants had reason to hide themselves from the observation of their + enemies. While detained cutting up the hippopotamus, I ascended a hill + called Mabue asula (stones smell badly), and, though not the highest in + sight, it was certainly not 100 feet lower than the most elevated. The + boiling-point of water showed it to be about 900 feet above the river, + which was of the level of Linyanti. These hills seemed to my men of + prodigious altitude, for they had been accustomed to ant-hills only. The + mention of mountains that pierced the clouds made them draw in their + breath and hold their hands to their mouths. And when I told them that + their previous description of Taba cheu had led me to expect something of + the sort, I found that the idea of a cloud-capped mountain had never + entered into their heads. The mountains certainly look high, from having + abrupt sides; but I had recognized the fact by the point of ebullition of + water, that they are of a considerably lower altitude than the top of the + ridge we had left. They constitute, in fact, a sort of low fringe on the + outside of the eastern ridge, exactly as the (apparently) high mountains + of Angola (Golungo Alto) form an outer low fringe to the western ridge. I + was much struck by the similarity of conformation and nature of the rocks + on both sides of the continent; but there is a difference in the structure + of the subtending ridges, as may be understood by the annexed ideal + geological section. + </p> + <p> + *[The ASCII edition cannot include the drawing of the cross-section, but + the comments are included in full.—A. L., 1997.] + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + IDEAL SECTION ACROSS SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA, + INTENDED TO SHOW THE ELEVATED VALLEY FORM OF THAT PORTION OF THE CONTINENT. + ——————————————————— + + WEST. + + [Terrain] [Remarks] + + Sea. CALCAREOUS TUFA. + + TRAP. With modern shells, and similar to those now found + in the sea adjacent, with strongly magnetic iron ore. + + MICA SCHIST. Dipping East. + + SANDSTONE (like that of East Africa). The rocks + Pungo Andongo. of Pungo Andongo are a conglomerate of rounded shingle in + Rocks 4000 feet. a matrix of sandstone, and stand on horizontal sandstone, + on which fossil palms appear. + + Fault. + + RED SHALES CAPPED BY FERRUGINOUS CONGLOMERATE. + Soft red shale or "keele". + + G| 5000 feet. + R| Water boils + E| at 202 Deg. + A| On top, ferruginous conglomerate; below that, red shale, + T| 4500 feet. with banks of gravel. + | Lake Dilolo. + C| TUFA AND TRAP. In Londa, the bottom of the valley + E| 2500 feet. is formed of ferruginous conglomerate on the surface; + N| Lake Ngami. hardened sandstone, with madrepore holes, + T| banks of gravel, and occasionally trap; + R| south of 12 Degrees, large patches of soft + A| TUFA. calcareous tufa, with pebbles of jasper, + L| agates, &c., lie on various horizontal traps, + | amygdaloids with analami and mesotype, which is + P| burst through by basaltic rocks forming hills, + L| and showing that the bottom of the valley + A| RADIATED ZEOLITE. consists of old silurian schists; + T| there are also various granitic rocks + E| cropping through the trap. + A| + U| BASALTIC ROCKS. Augitic porphyry and basalt, + .| with tufa over it. + + Place of Great Cataract. + + MICA SCHIST. White mica schist dipping west, and gneiss. + + 5000 feet. Kalomo. + Water boils GRANITE. With black mica. + at 202 Deg. + + MICA SCHIST. White mica schist and white marble. + + Hill tops TRAP. Hot fountain; conical hills of igneous rocks, + 4000 feet. containing much mica. + Bottoms 3500 feet. + + MICA SCHIST. Pink marble dolomite, + on hills of mica schist, of various colours, with trap, + schorl in gneiss, kyanite or disthene gneissose mica + in the schist. + + 1500 ft. COAL IN SANDSTONE. Specular and magnetic iron + on various igneous rocks; finely laminated porphyry; + granite; hot fountain. + + Sandstone overlying coal; trap dykes; + syenitic porphyry dykes; black vesicular trap, + penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country, + converting it into porcellanite, and partially + crystallizing the coal. On this sandstone + lie fossil palms, and coniferous trees + converted into silica, as on a similar rock in Angola. + + COMPACT SILICEOUS SCHIST. + + IGNEOUS ROCKS. Trappean rocks, with hot fountain. + + CALCAREOUS TUFA. Arkose, or granitic grit, + with modern shells covered by calcareous tufa. + Sea. + + EAST. +</pre> + <p> + The heights are given as an approximation obtained from observing the + boiling point of water, they are drawn on a scale of 1/10 of an inch per + 1000 feet in altitude. The section is necessarily exaggerated in + longitude, as it was traversed in different latitudes, the western side + being in 8d-12d, the eastern 15d-18d S. + </p> + <p> + We can see from this hill five distinct ranges, of which Bolengo is the + most westerly, and Komanga is the most easterly. The second is named + Sekonkamena, and the third Funze. Very many conical hills appear among + them, and they are generally covered with trees. On their tops we have + beautiful white quartz rocks, and some have a capping of dolomite. On the + west of the second range we have great masses of kyanite or disthene, and + on the flanks of the third and fourth a great deal of specular iron ore + which is magnetic, and containing a very large percentage of the metal. + The sides of these ranges are generally very precipitous, and there are + rivulets between which are not perennial. Many of the hills have been + raised by granite, exactly like that of the Kalomo. Dikes of this granite + may be seen thrusting up immense masses of mica schist and quartz or + sandstone schist, and making the strata fold over them on each side, as + clothes hung upon a line. The uppermost stratum is always dolomite or + bright white quartz. Semalembue intended that we should go a little to the + northeast, and pass through the people called Babimpe, and we saw some of + that people, who invited us to come that way on account of its being + smoother; but, feeling anxious to get back to the Zambesi again, we + decided to cross the hills toward its confluence with the Kafue. The + distance, which in a straight line is but small, occupied three days. The + precipitous nature of the sides of this mass of hills knocked up the oxen + and forced us to slaughter two, one of which, a very large one, and + ornamented with upward of thirty pieces of its own skin detached and + hanging down, Sekeletu had wished us to take to the white people as a + specimen of his cattle. We saw many elephants among the hills, and my men + ran off and killed three. When we came to the top of the outer range of + the hills we had a glorious view. At a short distance below us we saw the + Kafue, wending away over a forest-clad plain to the confluence, and on the + other side of the Zambesi, beyond that, lay a long range of dark hills. A + line of fleecy clouds appeared lying along the course of that river at + their base. The plain below us, at the left of the Kafue, had more large + game on it than any where else I had seen in Africa. Hundreds of buffaloes + and zebras grazed on the open spaces, and there stood lordly elephants + feeding majestically, nothing moving apparently but the proboscis. I + wished that I had been able to take a photograph of a scene so seldom + beheld, and which is destined, as guns increase, to pass away from earth. + When we descended we found all the animals remarkably tame. The elephants + stood beneath the trees, fanning themselves with their large ears, as if + they did not see us at 200 or 300 yards distance. The number of animals + was quite astonishing, and made me think that here I could realize an + image of that time when Megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval + forests. We saw great numbers of red-colored pigs ('Potamochoerus') + standing gazing at us in wonder. The people live on the hills, and, having + no guns, seldom disturb the game. They have never been visited, even by + half-castes; but Babisa traders have come occasionally. Continuous rains + kept us for some time on the banks of the Chiponga, and here we were + unfortunate enough to come among the tsetse. Mr. J. N. Gray, of the + British Museum, has kindly obliged me with a drawing of the insect, with + the ravages of which I have unfortunately been too familiar. (For + description, see p. 94-96 [Chapter 4 Paragraphs 16-20].) No. 1 is the + insect somewhat smaller than life, from the specimen having contracted in + drying; they are a little larger than the common house-fly. No. 2 is the + insect magnified; and No. 3 shows the magnified proboscis and poison-bulb + at the root.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately, these illustrations can not be presented in + this ASCII text. Fortunately, information on the Tsetse is no + longer difficult to find. The "somewhat smaller than life" + drawing is about 1 cm from head to tail, not including wings + or proboscis.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + We tried to leave one morning, but the rain coming on afresh brought us to + a stand, and after waiting an hour, wet to the skin, we were fain to + retrace our steps to our sheds. These rains were from the east, and the + clouds might be seen on the hills exactly as the "Table-cloth" on Table + Mountain. This was the first wetting we had got since we left Sesheke, for + I had gained some experience in traveling. In Londa we braved the rain, + and, as I despised being carried in our frequent passage through running + water, I was pretty constantly drenched; but now, when we saw a storm + coming, we invariably halted. The men soon pulled grass sufficient to make + a little shelter for themselves by placing it on a bush, and, having got + my camp-stool and umbrella, with a little grass under my feet, I kept + myself perfectly dry. We also lighted large fires, and the men were not + chilled by streams of water running down their persons, and abstracting + the heat, as they would have been had they been exposed to the rain. When + it was over they warmed themselves by the fires, and we traveled on + comfortably. The effect of this care was, that we had much less sickness + than with a smaller party in journeying to Loanda. Another improvement + made from my experience was avoiding an entire change of diet. In going to + Loanda I took little or no European food, in order not to burden my men + and make them lose spirit, but trusted entirely to what might be got by + the gun and the liberality of the Balonda; but on this journey I took some + flour which had been left in the wagon, with some got on the island, and + baked my own bread all the way in an extemporaneous oven made by an + inverted pot. With these precautions, aided, no doubt, by the greater + healthiness of the district over which we passed, I enjoyed perfect + health. + </p> + <p> + When we left the Chipongo on the 30th we passed among the range of hills + on our left, which are composed of mica and clay slate. At the bottom we + found a forest of large silicified trees, all lying as if the elevation of + the range had made them fall away from it, and toward the river. An + ordinary-sized tree standing on end, measured 22 inches in diameter: there + were 12 laminae to the inch. These are easily counted, because there is + usually a scale of pure silica between each, which has not been so much + affected by the weather as the rest of the ring itself: the edges of the + rings thus stand out plainly. Mr. Quekett, having kindly examined some + specimens, finds that it is "silicified CONIFEROUS WOOD of the ARAUCARIAN + type; and the nearest allied wood that he knows of is that found, also in + a fossil state, in New South Wales." The numbers of large game were quite + astonishing. I never saw elephants so tame as those near the Chiponga: + they stood close to our path without being the least afraid. This is + different from their conduct where they have been accustomed to guns, for + there they take alarm at the distance of a mile, and begin to run if a + shot is fired even at a longer distance. My men killed another here, and + rewarded the villagers of the Chiponga for their liberality in meal by + loading them with flesh. We spent a night at a baobab, which was hollow, + and would hold twenty men inside. It had been used as a lodging-house by + the Babisa. + </p> + <p> + As we approached nearer the Zambesi, the country became covered with + broad-leaved bushes, pretty thickly planted, and we had several times to + shout to elephants to get out of our way. At an open space, a herd of + buffaloes came trotting up to look at our oxen, and it was only by + shooting one that I made them retreat. The meat is very much like that of + an ox, and this one was very fine. The only danger we actually encountered + was from a female elephant, with three young ones of different sizes. + Charging through the centre of our extended line, and causing the men to + throw down their burdens in a great hurry, she received a spear for her + temerity. I never saw an elephant with more than one calf before. We knew + that we were near our Zambesi again, even before the great river burst + upon our sight, by the numbers of water-fowl we met. I killed four geese + with two shots, and, had I followed the wishes of my men, could have + secured a meal of water-fowl for the whole party. I never saw a river with + so much animal life around and in it, and, as the Barotse say, "Its fish + and fowl are always fat." When our eyes were gladdened by a view of its + goodly broad waters, we found it very much larger than it is even above + the falls. One might try to make his voice heard across it in vain. Its + flow was more rapid than near Sesheke, being often four and a half miles + an hour, and, what I never saw before, the water was discolored and of a + deep brownish-red. In the great valley the Leeambye never becomes of this + color. The adjacent country, so far north as is known, is all level, and + the soil, being generally covered with dense herbage, is not abraded; but + on the eastern ridge the case is different; the grass is short, and, the + elevation being great, the soil is washed down by the streams, and hence + the discoloration which we now view. The same thing was observed on the + western ridge. We never saw discoloration till we reached the Quango; that + obtained its matter from the western slope of the western ridge, just as + this part of the Zambesi receives its soil from the eastern slope of the + eastern ridge. It carried a considerable quantity of wreck of reeds, + sticks, and trees. We struck upon the river about eight miles east of the + confluence with the Kafue, and thereby missed a sight of that interesting + point. The cloudiness of the weather was such that but few observations + could be made for determining our position; so, pursuing our course, we + went down the left bank, and came opposite the island of Menye makaba. The + Zambesi contains numerous islands; this was about a mile and a half or two + miles long, and upward of a quarter of a mile broad. Besides human + population, it has a herd of buffaloes that never leave it. In the + distance they seemed to be upward of sixty. The human and brute + inhabitants understand each other; for when the former think they ought to + avenge the liberties committed on their gardens, the leaders of the latter + come out boldly to give battle. They told us that the only time in which + they can thin them is when the river is full and part of the island + flooded. They then attack them from their canoes. The comparatively small + space to which they have confined themselves shows how luxuriant the + vegetation of this region is; for were they in want of more pasture, as + buffaloes can swim well, and the distance from this bank to the island is + not much more than 200 yards, they might easily remove hither. The + opposite bank is much more distant. + </p> + <p> + Ranges of hills appear now to run parallel with the Zambesi, and are about + fifteen miles apart. Those on the north approach nearest to the river. The + inhabitants on that side are the Batonga, those on the south bank are the + Banyai. The hills abound in buffaloes, and elephants are numerous, and + many are killed by the people on both banks. They erect stages on high + trees overhanging the paths by which the elephants come, and then use a + large spear with a handle nearly as thick as a man's wrist, and four or + five feet long. When the animal comes beneath they throw the spear, and if + it enters between the ribs above, as the blade is at least twenty inches + long by two broad, the motion of the handle, as it is aided by knocking + against the trees, makes frightful gashes within, and soon causes death. + They kill them also by means of a spear inserted in a beam of wood, which + being suspended on the branch of a tree by a cord attached to a latch + fastened in the path, and intended to be struck by the animal's foot, + leads to the fall of the beam, and, the spear being poisoned, causes death + in a few hours. + </p> + <p> + We were detained by continuous rains several days at this island. The + clouds rested upon the tops of the hills as they came from the eastward, + and then poured down plenteous showers on the valleys below. As soon as we + could move, Tomba Nyama, the head man of the island, volunteered the loan + of a canoe to cross a small river, called the Chongwe, which we found to + be about fifty or sixty yards broad and flooded. All this part of the + country was well known to Sekwebu, and he informed us that, when he passed + through it as a boy, the inhabitants possessed abundance of cattle, and + there were no tsetse. The existence of the insect now shows that it may + return in company with the larger game. The vegetation along the bank was + exceedingly rank, and the bushes so tangled that it was difficult to get + on. The paths had been made by the wild animals alone, for the general + pathway of the people is the river, in their canoes. We usually followed + the footpaths of the game, and of these there was no lack. Buffaloes, + zebras, pallahs, and waterbucks abound, and there is also a great + abundance of wild pigs, koodoos, and the black antelope. We got one + buffalo as he was rolling himself in a pool of mud. He had a large piece + of skin torn off his flank, it was believed by an alligator. + </p> + <p> + We were struck by the fact that, as soon as we came between the ranges of + hills which flank the Zambesi, the rains felt warm. At sunrise the + thermometer stood at from 82 Deg. to 86 Deg.; at midday, in the coolest + shade, namely, in my little tent, under a shady tree, at 96 Deg. to 98 + Deg.; and at sunset it was 86 Deg. This is different from any thing we + experienced in the interior, for these rains always bring down the mercury + to 72 Deg. or even 68 Deg. There, too, we found a small black coleopterous + insect, which stung like the mosquito, but injected less poison; it puts + us in mind of that insect, which does not exist in the high lands we had + left. + </p> + <p> + JANUARY 6TH, 1856. Each village we passed furnished us with a couple of + men to take us on to the next. They were useful in showing us the parts + least covered with jungle. When we came near a village, we saw men, women, + and children employed in weeding their gardens, they being great + agriculturists. Most of the men are muscular, and have large plowman + hands. Their color is the same admixture, from very dark to light olive, + that we saw in Londa. Though all have thick lips and flat noses, only the + more degraded of the population possess the ugly negro physiognomy. They + mark themselves by a line of little raised cicatrices, each of which is a + quarter of an inch long; they extend from the tip of the nose to the root + of the hair on the forehead. It is remarkable that I never met with an + Albino in crossing Africa, though, from accounts published by the + Portuguese, I was led to expect that they were held in favor as doctors by + certain chiefs. I saw several in the south: one at Kuruman is a full-grown + woman, and a man having this peculiarity of skin was met with in the + colony. Their bodies are always blistered on exposure to the sun, as the + skin is more tender than that of the blacks. The Kuruman woman lived some + time at Kolobeng, and generally had on her bosom and shoulders the remains + of large blisters. She was most anxious to be made black, but nitrate of + silver, taken internally, did not produce its usual effect. During the + time I resided at Mabotsa, a woman came to the station with a fine boy, an + Albino. The father had ordered her to throw him away, but she clung to her + offspring for many years. He was remarkably intelligent for his age. The + pupil of the eye was of a pink color, and the eye itself was unsteady in + vision. The hair, or rather wool, was yellow, and the features were those + common among the Bechuanas. After I left the place the mother is said to + have become tired of living apart from the father, who refused to have her + while she retained the son. She took him out one day, and killed him close + to the village of Mabotsa, and nothing was done to her by the authorities. + From having met with no Albinos in Londa, I suspect they are there also + put to death. We saw one dwarf only in Londa, and brands on him showed he + had once been a slave; and there is one dwarf woman at Linyanti. The + general absence of deformed persons is partly owing to their destruction + in infancy, and partly to the mode of life being a natural one, so far as + ventilation and food are concerned. They use but few unwholesome mixtures + as condiments, and, though their undress exposes them to the vicissitudes + of the temperature, it does not harbor vomites. It was observed that, when + smallpox and measles visited the country, they were most severe on the + half-castes who were clothed. In several tribes, a child which is said to + "tlola", transgress, is put to death. "Tlolo", or transgression, is + ascribed to several curious cases. A child who cut the upper front teeth + before the under was always put to death among the Bakaa, and, I believe, + also among the Bakwains. In some tribes, a case of twins renders one of + them liable to death; and an ox, which, while lying in the pen, beats the + ground with its tail, is treated in the same way. It is thought to be + calling death to visit the tribe. When I was coming through Londa, my men + carried a great number of fowls, of a larger breed than any they had at + home. If one crowed before midnight, it had been guilty of "tlolo", and + was killed. The men often carried them sitting on their guns, and, if one + began to crow in a forest, the owner would give it a beating, by way of + teaching it not to be guilty of crowing at unseasonable hours. + </p> + <p> + The women here are in the habit of piercing the upper lip, and gradually + enlarging the orifice until they can insert a shell. The lip then appears + drawn out beyond the perpendicular of the nose, and gives them a most + ungainly aspect. Sekwebu remarked, "These women want to make their mouths + like those of ducks;" and, indeed, it does appear as if they had the idea + that female beauty of lip had been attained by the 'Ornithorhynchus + paradoxus' alone. This custom prevails throughout the country of the + Maravi, and no one could see it without confessing that fashion had never + led women to a freak more mad. We had rains now every day, and + considerable cloudiness, but the sun often burst through with scorching + intensity. All call out against it then, saying, "O the sun! that is rain + again." It was worth noticing that my companions never complained of the + heat while on the highlands, but when we descended into the lowlands of + Angola, and here also, they began to fret on account of it. I myself felt + an oppressive steaminess in the atmosphere which I had not experienced on + the higher lands. + </p> + <p> + As the game was abundant and my party very large, I had still to supply + their wants with the gun. We slaughtered the oxen only when unsuccessful + in hunting. We always entered into friendly relations with the head men of + the different villages, and they presented grain and other food freely. + One man gave a basinful of rice, the first we met with in the country. It + is never seen in the interior. He said he knew it was "white man's corn", + and when I wished to buy some more, he asked me to give him a slave. This + was the first symptom of the slave-trade on this side of the country. The + last of these friendly head men was named Mobala; and having passed him in + peace, we had no anticipation of any thing else; but, after a few hours, + we reached Selole or Chilole, and found that he not only considered us + enemies, but had actually sent an express to raise the tribe of Mburuma + against us. All the women of Selole had fled, and the few people we met + exhibited symptoms of terror. An armed party had come from Mburuma in + obedience to the call; but the head man of the company, being Mburuma's + brother, suspecting that it was a hoax, came to our encampment and told us + the whole. When we explained our objects, he told us that Mburuma, he had + no doubt, would receive us well. The reason why Selole acted in this + foolish manner we afterward found to be this: an Italian named Simoens, + and nicknamed Siriatomba (don't eat tobacco), had married the daughter of + a chief called Sekokole, living north of Tete. He armed a party of fifty + slaves with guns, and, ascending the river in canoes some distance beyond + the island Meya makaba, attacked several inhabited islands beyond, + securing a large number of prisoners, and much ivory. On his return, the + different chiefs, at the instigation of his father-in-law, who also did + not wish him to set up as a chief, united, attacked and dispersed the + party of Simoens, and killed him while trying to escape on foot. Selole + imagined that I was another Italian, or, as he expressed it, "Siriatomba + risen from the dead." In his message to Mburuma he even said that Mobala, + and all the villages beyond, were utterly destroyed by our fire-arms, but + the sight of Mobala himself, who had come to the village of Selole, led + the brother of Mburuma to see at once that it was all a hoax. But for + this, the foolish fellow Selole might have given us trouble. + </p> + <p> + We saw many of the liberated captives of this Italian among the villages + here, and Sekwebu found them to be Matebele. The brother of Mburuma had a + gun, which was the first we had seen in coming eastward. Before we reached + Mburuma my men went to attack a troop of elephants, as they were much in + need of meat. When the troop began to run, one of them fell into a hole, + and before he could extricate himself an opportunity was afforded for all + the men to throw their spears. When he rose he was like a huge porcupine, + for each of the seventy or eighty men had discharged more than one spear + at him. As they had no more, they sent for me to finish him. In order to + put him at once out of pain, I went to within twenty yards, there being a + bank between us which he could not readily climb. I rested the gun upon an + ant-hill so as to take a steady aim; but, though I fired twelve two-ounce + bullets, all I had, into different parts, I could not kill him. As it was + becoming dark, I advised my men to let him stand, being sure of finding + him dead in the morning; but, though we searched all the next day, and + went more than ten miles, we never saw him again. I mention this to young + men who may think that they will be able to hunt elephants on foot by + adopting the Ceylon practice of killing them by one ball in the brain. I + believe that in Africa the practice of standing before an elephant, + expecting to kill him with one shot, would be certain death to the hunter; + and I would add, for the information of those who may think that, because + I met with a great abundance of game here, they also might find rare + sport, that the tsetse exists all along both banks of the Zambesi, and + there can be no hunting by means of horses. Hunting on foot in this + climate is such excessively hard work, that I feel certain the keenest + sportsman would very soon turn away from it in disgust. I myself was + rather glad, when furnished with the excuse that I had no longer any + balls, to hand over all the hunting to my men, who had no more love for + the sport than myself, as they never engaged in it except when forced by + hunger. + </p> + <p> + Some of them gave me a hint to melt down my plate by asking if it were not + lead. I had two pewter plates and a piece of zinc which I now melted into + bullets. I also spent the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying spears + for them. My men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes and killed + numbers of the calves. I, too, exerted myself greatly; but, as I am now + obliged to shoot with the left arm, I am a bad shot, and this, with the + lightness of the bullets, made me very unsuccessful. The more the hunger, + the less my success, invariably. + </p> + <p> + I may here add an adventure with an elephant of one who has had more + narrow escapes than any man living, but whose modesty has always prevented + him from publishing any thing about himself. When we were on the banks of + the Zouga in 1850, Mr. Oswell pursued one of these animals into the dense, + thick, thorny bushes met with on the margin of that river, and to which + the elephant usually flees for safety. He followed through a narrow + pathway by lifting up some of the branches and forcing his way through the + rest; but, when he had just got over this difficulty, he saw the elephant, + whose tail he had but got glimpses of before, now rushing toward him. + There was then no time to lift up branches, so he tried to force the horse + through them. He could not effect a passage; and, as there was but an + instant between the attempt and failure, the hunter tried to dismount, but + in doing this one foot was caught by a branch, and the spur drawn along + the animal's flank; this made him spring away and throw the rider on the + ground with his face to the elephant, which, being in full chase, still + went on. Mr. Oswell saw the huge fore foot about to descend on his legs, + parted them, and drew in his breath as if to resist the pressure of the + other foot, which he expected would next descend on his body. He saw the + whole length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over him; the + horse got away safely. I have heard of but one other authentic instance in + which an elephant went over a man without injury, and, for any one who + knows the nature of the bush in which this occurred, the very thought of + an encounter in it with such a foe is appalling. As the thorns are placed + in pairs on opposite sides of the branches, and these turn round on being + pressed against, one pair brings the other exactly into the position in + which it must pierce the intruder. They cut like knives. Horses dread this + bush extremely; indeed, most of them refuse to face its thorns. + </p> + <p> + On reaching Mburuma's village, his brother came to meet us. We explained + the reason of our delay, and he told us that we were looked upon with + alarm. He said that Siriatomba had been killed near the village of Selole, + and hence that man's fears. He added that the Italian had come talking of + peace, as we did, but had kidnapped children and bought ivory with them, + and that we were supposed to be following the same calling. I pointed to + my men, and asked if any of these were slaves, and if we had any children + among them, and I think we satisfied him that we were true men. Referring + to our ill success in hunting the day before, he said, "The man at whose + village you remained was in fault in allowing you to want meat, for he had + only to run across to Mburuma; he would have given him a little meal, and, + having sprinkled that on the ground as an offering to the gods, you would + have found your elephant." The chiefs in these parts take upon themselves + an office somewhat like the priesthood, and the people imagine that they + can propitiate the Deity through them. In illustration of their ideas, it + may be mentioned that, when we were among the tribes west of Semalembue, + several of the people came forward and introduced themselves—one as + a hunter of elephants, another as a hunter of hippopotami, a third as a + digger of pitfalls—apparently wishing me to give them medicine for + success in their avocations, as well as to cure the diseases of those to + whom I was administering the drugs. I thought they attributed supernatural + power to them, for, like all Africans, they have unbounded faith in the + efficacy of charms; but I took pains to let them know that they must pray + and trust to another power than mine for aid. We never saw Mburuma + himself, and the conduct of his people indicated very strong suspicions, + though he gave us presents of meal, maize, and native corn. His people + never came near us except in large bodies and fully armed. We had to order + them to place their bows, arrows, and spears at a distance before entering + our encampment. We did not, however, care much for a little trouble now, + as we hoped that, if we could pass this time without much molestation, we + might yet be able to return with ease, and without meeting sour, + suspicious looks. + </p> + <p> + The soil, glancing every where with mica, is very fertile, and all the + valleys are cultivated, the maize being now in ear and eatable. Ranges of + hills, which line both banks of the river above this, now come close up to + each bank, and form a narrow gorge, which, like all others of the same + nature, is called Mpata. There is a narrow pathway by the side of the + river, but we preferred a more open one in a pass among the hills to the + east, which is called Mohango. The hills rise to a height of 800 or 1000 + feet, and are all covered with trees. The rocks were of various colored + mica schist; and parallel with the Zambesi lay a broad band of gneiss with + garnets in it. It stood on edge, and several dikes of basalt, with + dolerite, had cut through it. + </p> + <p> + Mburuma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. These men tried to bring us + to a stand, at a distance of about six miles from the village, by the + notice, "Mburuma says you are to sleep under that tree." On declining to + do this, we were told that we must wait at a certain village for a supply + of corn. As none appeared in an hour, I proceeded on the march. It is not + quite certain that their intentions were hostile, but this seemed to + disarrange their plans, and one of them was soon observed running back to + Mburuma. They had first of all tried to separate our party by volunteering + the loan of a canoe to convey Sekwebu and me, together with our luggage, + by way of the river, and, as it was pressed upon us, I thought that this + was their design. The next attempt was to detain us in the pass; but, + betraying no suspicion, we civilly declined to place ourselves in their + power in an unfavorable position. We afterward heard that a party of + Babisa traders, who came from the northeast, bringing English goods from + Mozambique, had been plundered by this same people. + </p> + <p> + Elephants were still abundant, but more wild, as they fled with great + speed as soon as we made our appearance. The country between Mburuma's and + his mother's village was all hilly and very difficult, and prevented us + from traveling more than ten miles a day. At the village of Ma Mburuma + (mother of Mburuma), the guides, who had again joined us, gave a favorable + report, and the women and children did not flee. Here we found that + traders, called Bazunga, have been in the habit of coming in canoes, and + that I was named as one of them. These I supposed to be half-caste + Portuguese, for they said that the hair of their heads and the skin + beneath their clothing were different from mine. Ma Mburuma promised us + canoes to cross the Loangwa in our front. It was pleasant to see great + numbers of men, women, and boys come, without suspicion, to look at the + books, watch, looking-glass, revolver, etc. They are a strong, muscular + race, and both men and women are seen cultivating the ground. The soil + contains so much comminuted talc and mica from the adjacent hills that it + seems as if mixed with spermaceti. They generally eat their corn only + after it has begun to sprout from steeping it in water. The deformed lips + of the women make them look very ugly; I never saw one smile. The people + in this part seem to understand readily what is spoken about God, for they + listen with great attention, and tell in return their own ideas of + departed spirits. The position of the village of Mburuma's mother was one + of great beauty, quite inclosed by high, steep hills; and the valleys are + all occupied by gardens of native corn and maize, which grow luxuriantly. + We were obliged to hurry along, for the oxen were bitten daily by the + tsetse, which, as I have before remarked, now inhabits extensive tracts + which once supported herds of cattle that were swept off by Mpakane and + other marauders, whose devastations were well known to Sekwebu, for he + himself had been an actor in the scenes. When he told me of them he always + lowered his voice, in order that the guides might not hear that he had + been one of their enemies. But that we were looked upon with suspicion, on + account of having come in the footsteps of invaders, was evident from our + guides remarking to men in the gardens through which we passed, "They have + words of peace—all very fine; but lies only, as the Bazunga are + great liars." They thought we did not understand them; but Sekwebu knew + every word perfectly; and, without paying any ostensible attention to + these complimentary remarks, we always took care to explain ever afterward + that we were not Bazunga, but Makoa (English). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 29. + </h2> + <p> + Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi—Hostile Appearances—Ruins of + a Church—Turmoil of Spirit—Cross the River—Friendly + Parting—Ruins of stone Houses—The Situation of Zumbo for + Commerce—Pleasant Gardens—Dr. Lacerda's Visit to Cazembe—Pereira's + Statement—Unsuccessful Attempt to establish Trade with the People of + Cazembe—One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo—Meet a Man with + Jacket and Hat on—Hear of the Portuguese and native War—Holms + and Terraces on the Banks of a River—Dancing for Corn—Beautiful + Country—Mpende's Hostility—Incantations—A Fight + anticipated—Courage and Remarks of my Men—Visit from two old + Councilors of Mpende—Their Opinion of the English—Mpende + concludes not to fight us—His subsequent Friendship—Aids us to + cross the River—The Country—Sweet Potatoes—Bakwain + Theory of Rain confirmed—Thunder without Clouds—Desertion of + one of my Men—Other Natives' Ideas of the English—Dalama + (gold)—Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers—Meet native Traders + with American Calico—Game-laws— Elephant Medicine—Salt + from the Sand—Fertility of Soil—Spotted Hyaena—Liberality + and Politeness of the People—Presents—A stingy white Trader—Natives' + Remarks about him—Effect on their Minds—Rain and Wind now from + an opposite Direction—Scarcity of Fuel—Trees for Boat-building—Boroma—Freshets—Leave + the River—Chicova, its Geological Features—Small Rapid near + Tete—Loquacious Guide—Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer—An old + Man—No Silver—Gold-washing—No Cattle. + </p> + <p> + 14TH. We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and the Zambesi, most + thankful to God for his great mercies in helping us thus far. Mburuma's + people had behaved so suspiciously, that, though we had guides from him, + we were by no means sure that we should not be attacked in crossing the + Loangwa. We saw them here collecting in large numbers, and, though + professing friendship, they kept at a distance from our camp. They refused + to lend us more canoes than two, though they have many. They have no + intercourse with Europeans except through the Babisa. They tell us that + this was formerly the residence of the Bazunga, and maintain silence as to + the cause of their leaving it. I walked about some ruins I discovered, + built of stone, and found the remains of a church, and on one side lay a + broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a cross, but no date. There + were no inscriptions on stone, and the people could not tell what the + Bazunga called their place. We found afterward it was Zumbo. + </p> + <p> + I felt some turmoil of spirit in the evening at the prospect of having all + my efforts for the welfare of this great region and its teeming population + knocked on the head by savages to-morrow, who might be said to "know not + what they do." It seemed such a pity that the important fact of the + existence of the two healthy ridges which I had discovered should not + become known in Christendom, for a confirmation would thereby have been + given to the idea that Africa is not open to the Gospel. But I read that + Jesus said, "All power is given unto me in heaven and on earth; go ye, + therefore, and teach all nations . . . and lo, I AM WITH YOU ALWAY, EVEN + UNTO THE END OF THE WORLD." I took this as His word of honor, and then + went out to take observations for latitude and longitude, which, I think, + were very successful. (The church: lat. 15d 37' 22" S., long. 30d 32' E.) + </p> + <p> + 15TH. The natives of the surrounding country collected around us this + morning, all armed. The women and children were sent away, and one of + Mburuma's wives, who lives in the vicinity, was not allowed to approach, + though she had come from her village to pay me a visit. Only one canoe was + lent to us, though we saw two others tied to the bank. The part we crossed + was about a mile from the confluence, and, as it was now flooded, it + seemed upward of half a mile in breadth. We passed all our goods first on + to an island in the middle, then the remaining cattle and men; occupying + the post of honor, I, as usual, was the last to enter the canoe. A number + of the inhabitants stood armed all the time we were embarking. I showed + them my watch, lens, and other things to keep them amused, until there + only remained those who were to enter the canoe with me. I thanked them + for their kindness, and wished them peace. After all, they may have been + influenced only by the intention to be ready in case I should play them + some false trick, for they have reason to be distrustful of the whites. + The guides came over to bid us adieu, and we sat under a mango-tree + fifteen feet in circumference. We found them more communicative now. They + said that the land on both sides belonged to the Bazunga, and that they + had left of old, on the approach of Changamera, Ngaba, and Mpakane. + Sekwebu was with the last named, but he maintained that they never came to + the confluence, though they carried off all the cattle of Mburuma. The + guides confirmed this by saying that the Bazunga were not attacked, but + fled in alarm on the approach of the enemy. This mango-tree he knew by its + proper name, and we found seven others and several tamarinds, and were + informed that the chief Mburuma sends men annually to gather the fruit, + but, like many Africans whom I have known, has not had patience to + propagate more trees. I gave them some little presents for themselves, a + handkerchief and a few beads, and they were highly pleased with a cloth of + red baize for Mburuma, which Sekeletu had given me to purchase a canoe. We + were thankful to part good friends. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we passed along the bottom of the range, called Mazanzwe, and + found the ruins of eight or ten stone houses. They all faced the river, + and were high enough up the flanks of the hill Mazanzwe to command a + pleasant view of the broad Zambesi. These establishments had all been + built on one plan—a house on one side of a large court, surrounded + by a wall; both houses and walls had been built of soft gray sandstone + cemented together with mud. The work had been performed by slaves ignorant + of building, for the stones were not often placed so as to cover the seams + below. Hence you frequently find the joinings forming one seam from the + top to the bottom. Much mortar or clay had been used to cover defects, and + now trees of the fig family grow upon the walls, and clasp them with their + roots. When the clay is moistened, masses of the walls come down by + wholesale. Some of the rafters and beams had fallen in, but were entire, + and there were some trees in the middle of the houses as large as a man's + body. On the opposite or south bank of the Zambesi we saw the remains of a + wall on a height which was probably a fort, and the church stood at a + central point, formed by the right bank of the Loangwa and the left of the + Zambesi. + </p> + <p> + The situation of Zumbo was admirably well chosen as a site for commerce. + Looking backward we see a mass of high, dark mountains, covered with + trees; behind us rises the fine high hill Mazanzwe, which stretches away + northward along the left bank of the Loangwa; to the S.E. lies an open + country, with a small round hill in the distance called Tofulo. The + merchants, as they sat beneath the verandahs in front of their houses, had + a magnificent view of the two rivers at their confluence; of their church + at the angle; and of all the gardens which they had on both sides of the + rivers. In these they cultivated wheat without irrigation, and, as the + Portuguese assert, of a grain twice the size of that at Tete. From the + guides we learned that the inhabitants had not imbibed much idea of + Christianity, for they used the same term for the church bell which they + did for a diviner's drum. From this point the merchants had water + communication in three directions beyond, namely, from the Loangwa to the + N.N.W., by the Kafue to the W., and by the Zambesi to the S.W. Their + attention, however, was chiefly attracted to the N. or Londa; and the + principal articles of trade were ivory and slaves. Private enterprise was + always restrained, for the colonies of the Portuguese being strictly + military, and the pay of the commandants being very small, the officers + have always been obliged to engage in trade; and had they not employed + their power to draw the trade to themselves by preventing private traders + from making bargains beyond the villages, and only at regulated prices, + they would have had no trade, as they themselves were obliged to remain + always at their posts. + </p> + <p> + Several expeditions went to the north as far as to Cazembe, and Dr. + Lacerda, himself commandant of Tete, went to that chief's residence. + Unfortunately, he was cut off while there, and his papers, taken + possession of by a Jesuit who accompanied him, were lost to the world. + This Jesuit probably intended to act fairly and have them published; but + soon after his return he was called away by death himself, and the papers + were lost sight of. Dr. Lacerda had a strong desire to open up + communication with Angola, which would have been of importance then, as + affording a speedier mode of communication with Portugal than by the way + of the Cape; but since the opening of the overland passage to India, a + quicker transit is effected from Eastern Africa to Lisbon by way of the + Red Sea. Besides Lacerda, Cazembe was visited by Pereira, who gave a + glowing account of that chief's power, which none of my inquiries have + confirmed. The people of Matiamvo stated to me that Cazembe was a vassal + of their chief: and, from all the native visitors whom I have seen, he + appears to be exactly like Shinte and Katema, only a little more powerful. + The term "Emperor", which has been applied to him, seems totally + inappropriate. The statement of Pereira that twenty negroes were + slaughtered in a day, was not confirmed by any one else, though numbers + may have been killed on some particular occasion during the time of his + visit, for we find throughout all the country north of 20 Deg., which I + consider to be real negro, the custom of slaughtering victims to accompany + the departed soul of a chief, and human sacrifices are occasionally + offered, and certain parts of the bodies are used as charms. It is on + account of the existence of such rites, with the similarity of the + language, and the fact that the names of rivers are repeated again and + again from north to south through all that region, that I consider them to + have been originally one family. The last expedition to Cazembe was + somewhat of the same nature as the others, and failed in establishing a + commerce, because the people of Cazembe, who had come to Tete to invite + the Portuguese to visit them, had not been allowed to trade with whom they + might. As it had not been free-trade there, Cazembe did not see why it + should be free-trade at his town; he accordingly would not allow his + people to furnish the party with food except at his price; and the + expedition, being half starved in consequence, came away voting + unanimously that Cazembe was a great bore. + </p> + <p> + When we left the Loangwa we thought we had got rid of the hills; but there + are some behind Mazanzwe, though five or six miles off from the river. + Tsetse and the hills had destroyed two riding oxen, and when the little + one that I now rode knocked up, I was forced to march on foot. The bush + being very dense and high, we were going along among the trees, when three + buffaloes, which we had unconsciously passed above the wind, thought that + they were surrounded by men, and dashed through our line. My ox set off at + a gallop, and when I could manage to glance back, I saw one of the men up + in the air about five feet above a buffalo, which was tearing along with a + stream of blood running down his flank. When I got back to the poor + fellow, I found that he had lighted on his face, and, though he had been + carried on the horns of the buffalo about twenty yards before getting the + final toss, the skin was not pierced nor was a bone broken. When the + beasts appeared, he had thrown down his load and stabbed one in the side. + It turned suddenly upon him, and, before he could use a tree for defense, + carried him off. We shampooed him well, and then went on, and in about a + week he was able to engage in the hunt again. + </p> + <p> + At Zumbo we had entered upon old gray sandstone, with shingle in it, + dipping generally toward the south, and forming the bed of the river. The + Zambesi is very broad here, but contains many inhabited islands. We slept + opposite one on the 16th called Shibanga. The nights are warm, the + temperature never falling below 80 Deg.; it was 91 Deg. even at sunset. + One can not cool the water by a wet towel round the vessel, and we feel no + pleasure in drinking warm water, though the heat makes us imbibe large + quantities. We often noticed lumps of a froth-like substance on the bushes + as large as cricket-balls, which we could not explain. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 17th we were pleased to see a person coming from the + island of Shibanga with jacket and hat on. He was quite black, but had + come from the Portuguese settlement at Tete or Nyungwe; and now, for the + first time, we understood that the Portuguese settlement was on the other + bank of the river, and that they had been fighting with the natives for + the last two years. We had thus got into the midst of a Caffre war, + without any particular wish to be on either side. He advised us to cross + the river at once, as Mpende lived on this side. We had been warned by the + guides of Mburuma against him, for they said that if we could get past + Mpende we might reach the white men, but that he was determined that no + white man should pass him. Wishing to follow this man's advice, we + proposed to borrow his canoes; but, being afraid to offend the lords of + the river, he declined. The consequence was, we were obliged to remain on + the enemy's side. The next island belonged to a man named Zungo, a fine, + frank fellow, who brought us at once a present of corn, bound in a + peculiar way in grass. He freely accepted our apology for having no + present to give in return, as he knew that there were no goods in the + interior, and, besides, sent forward a recommendation to his + brother-in-law Pangola. The country adjacent to the river is covered with + dense bush, thorny and tangled, making one stoop or wait till the men + broke or held the branches on one side. There is much rank grass, but it + is not so high or rank as that of Angola. The maize, however, which is + grown here is equal in size to that which the Americans sell for seed at + the Cape. There is usually a holm adjacent to the river, studded with + villages and gardens. The holms are but partially cultivated, and on the + other parts grows rank and weedy grass. There is then a second terrace, on + which trees and bushes abound; and I thought I could detect a third and + higher steppe. But I never could discover terraces on the adjacent + country, such as in other countries show ancient sea-beaches. The path + runs sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other of these river + terraces. Canoes are essentially necessary; but I find that they here cost + too much for my means, and higher up, where my hoes might have secured + one, I was unwilling to enter into a canoe and part with my men while + there was danger of their being attacked. + </p> + <p> + 18TH. Yesterday we rested under a broad-spreading fig-tree. Large numbers + of buffaloes and water-antelopes were feeding quietly in the meadows; the + people have either no guns or no ammunition, or they would not be so tame. + Pangola visited us, and presented us with food. In few other countries + would one hundred and fourteen sturdy vagabonds be supported by the + generosity of the head men and villagers, and whatever they gave be + presented with politeness. My men got pretty well supplied individually, + for they went into the villages and commenced dancing. The young women + were especially pleased with the new steps they had to show, though I + suspect many of them were invented for the occasion, and would say, "Dance + for me, and I will grind corn for you." At every fresh instance of + liberality, Sekwebu said, "Did not I tell you that these people had + hearts, while we were still at Linyanti?" All agreed that the character he + had given was true, and some remarked, "Look! although we have been so + long away from home, not one of us has become lean." It was a fact that we + had been all well supplied either with meat by my gun or their own spears, + or food from the great generosity of the inhabitants. Pangola promised to + ferry us across the Zambesi, but failed to fulfill his promise. He seemed + to wish to avoid offending his neighbor Mpende by aiding us to escape from + his hands, so we proceeded along the bank. Although we were in doubt as to + our reception by Mpende, I could not help admiring the beautiful country + as we passed along. There is, indeed, only a small part under cultivation + in this fertile valley, but my mind naturally turned to the comparison of + it with Kolobeng, where we waited anxiously during months for rain, and + only a mere thunder-shower followed. I shall never forget the dry, hot + east winds of that region; the yellowish, sultry, cloudless sky; the grass + and all the plants drooping from drought, the cattle lean, the people + dispirited, and our own hearts sick from hope deferred. There we often + heard in the dead of the night the shrill whistle of the rain-doctor + calling for rain that would not come, while here we listened to the + rolling thunder by night, and beheld the swelling valleys adorned with + plenty by day. We have rain almost daily, and every thing is beautifully + fresh and green. I felt somewhat as people do on coming ashore after a + long voyage—inclined to look upon the landscape in the most + favorable light. The hills are covered with forests, and there is often a + long line of fleecy cloud lying on them about midway up; they are very + beautiful. Finding no one willing to aid us in crossing the river, we + proceeded to the village of the chief Mpende. A fine large conical hill + now appeared to the N.N.E.; it is the highest I have seen in these parts, + and at some points it appears to be two cones joined together, the + northern one being a little lower than the southern. Another high hill + stands on the same side to the N.E., and, from its similarity in shape to + an axe at the top, is called Motemwa. Beyond it, eastward, lies the + country of Kaimbwa, a chief who has been engaged in actual conflict with + the Bazunga, and beat them too, according to the version of things here. + The hills on the north bank are named Kamoenja. When we came to Mpende's + village, he immediately sent to inquire who we were, and then ordered the + guides who had come with us from the last village to go back and call + their masters. He sent no message to us whatever. We had traveled very + slowly up to this point, the tsetse-stricken oxen being now unable to go + two miles an hour. We were also delayed by being obliged to stop at every + village, and send notice of our approach to the head man, who came and + received a little information, and gave some food. If we had passed on + without taking any notice of them, they would have considered it impolite, + and we should have appeared more as enemies than friends. I consoled + myself for the loss of time by the thought that these conversations tended + to the opening of our future path. + </p> + <p> + 23D. This morning, at sunrise, a party of Mpende's people came close to + our encampment, uttering strange cries and waving some bright red + substance toward us. They then lighted a fire with charms in it, and + departed, uttering the same hideous screams as before. This was intended + to render us powerless, and probably also to frighten us. Ever since dawn, + parties of armed men have been seen collecting from all quarters, and + numbers passed us while it was yet dark. Had we moved down the river at + once, it would have been considered an indication of fear or defiance, and + so would a retreat. I therefore resolved to wait, trusting in Him who has + the hearts of all men in His hands. They evidently intended to attack us, + for no friendly message was sent; and when three of the Batoka the night + before entered the village to beg food, a man went round about each of + them, making a noise like a lion. The villagers then called upon them to + do homage, and, when they complied, the chief ordered some chaff to be + given them, as if it had been food. Other things also showed unmistakable + hostility. As we were now pretty certain of a skirmish, I ordered an ox to + be slaughtered, as this is a means which Sebituane employed for inspiring + courage. I have no doubt that we should have been victorious; indeed, my + men, who were far better acquainted with fighting than any of the people + on the Zambesi, were rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to + carry the tusks for them. "We shall now," said they, "get both corn and + clothes in plenty." They were in a sad state, poor fellows; for the rains + we had encountered had made their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal, and + they were looked upon with disgust by the well-fed and well-clothed + Zambesians. They were, however, veterans in marauding, and the head men, + instead of being depressed by fear, as the people of Mpende intended + should be the case in using their charms, hinted broadly to me that I + ought to allow them to keep Mpende's wives. The roasting of meat went on + fast and furious, and some of the young men said to me, "You have seen us + with elephants, but you don't know yet what we can do with men." I believe + that, had Mpende struck the first blow, he would soon have found out that + he never made a greater mistake in his life. + </p> + <p> + His whole tribe was assembled at about the distance of half a mile. As the + country is covered with trees, we did not see them; but every now and then + a few came about us as spies, and would answer no questions. I handed a + leg of the ox to two of these, and desired them to take it to Mpende. + After waiting a considerable time in suspense, two old men made their + appearance, and said they had come to inquire who I was. I replied, "I am + a Lekoa" (an Englishman). They said, "We don't know that tribe. We suppose + you are a Mozunga, the tribe with which we have been fighting." As I was + not yet aware that the term Mozunga was applied to a Portuguese, and + thought they meant half-castes, I showed them my hair and the skin of my + bosom, and asked if the Bazunga had hair and skin like mine. As the + Portuguese have the custom of cutting the hair close, and are also + somewhat darker than we are, they answered, "No; we never saw skin so + white as that;" and added, "Ah! you must be one of that tribe that loves + (literally, 'has heart to') the black men." I, of course, gladly responded + in the affirmative. They returned to the village, and we afterward heard + that there had been a long discussion between Mpende and his councilors, + and that one of the men with whom we had remained to talk the day before + had been our advocate. He was named Sindese Oalea. When we were passing + his village, after some conversation, he said to his people, "Is that the + man whom they wish to stop after he has passed so many tribes? What can + Mpende say to refusing him a passage?" It was owing to this man, and the + fact that I belonged to the "friendly white tribe", that Mpende was + persuaded to allow us to pass. When we knew the favorable decision of the + council, I sent Sekwebu to speak about the purchase of a canoe, as one of + my men had become very ill, and I wished to relieve his companions by + taking him in a canoe. Before Sekwebu could finish his story, Mpende + remarked, "That white man is truly one of our friends. See how he lets me + know his afflictions!" Sekwebu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the + conversation, and said, "Ah! if you only knew him as well as we do who + have lived with him, you would understand that he highly values your + friendship and that of Mburuma, and, as he is a stranger, he trusts in you + to direct him." He replied, "Well, he ought to cross to the other side of + the river, for this bank is hilly and rough, and the way to Tete is longer + on this than on the opposite bank." "But who will take us across, if you + do not?" "Truly!" replied Mpende; "I only wish you had come sooner to tell + me about him; but you shall cross." Mpende said frequently he was sorry he + had not known me sooner, but that he had been prevented by his enchanter + from coming near me; and he lamented that the same person had kept him + from eating the meat which I had presented. He did every thing he could + afterward to aid us on our course, and our departure was as different as + possible from our approach to his village. I was very much pleased to find + the English name spoken of with such great respect so far from the coast, + and most thankful that no collision occurred to damage its influence. + </p> + <p> + 24TH. Mpende sent two of his principal men to order the people of a large + island below to ferry us across. The river is very broad, and, though my + men were well acquainted with the management of canoes, we could not all + cross over before dark. It is 1200 yards from bank to bank, and between + 700 and 800 of deep water, flowing at the rate of 3-3/4 miles per hour. We + landed first on an island; then, to prevent our friends playing false with + us, hauled the canoes up to our bivouac, and slept in them. Next morning + we all reached the opposite bank in safety. We observed, as we came along + the Zambesi, that it had fallen two feet below the height at which we + first found it, and the water, though still muddy enough to deposit a film + at the bottom of vessels in a few hours, is not nearly so red as it was, + nor is there so much wreck on its surface. It is therefore not yet the + period of the central Zambesi inundation, as we were aware also from our + knowledge of the interior. The present height of the water has been caused + by rains outside the eastern ridge. The people here seem abundantly + supplied with English cotton goods. The Babisa are the medium of trade, + for we were informed that the Bazunga, who formerly visited these parts, + have been prevented by the war from coming for the last two years. The + Babisa are said to be so fond of a tusk that they will even sell a + newly-married wife for one. As we were now not far from the latitude of + Mozambique, I was somewhat tempted to strike away from the river to that + port, instead of going to the S.E., in the direction the river flows; but, + the great object of my journey being to secure water-carriage, I resolved + to continue along the Zambesi, though it did lead me among the enemies of + the Portuguese. The region to the north of the ranges of hills on our left + is called Senga, from being the country of the Basenga, who are said to be + great workers in iron, and to possess abundance of fine iron ore, which, + when broken, shows veins of the pure metal in its substance. It has been + well roasted in the operations of nature. Beyond Senga lies a range of + mountains called Mashinga, to which the Portuguese in former times went to + wash for gold, and beyond that are great numbers of tribes which pass + under the general term Maravi. To the northeast there are extensive plains + destitute of trees, but covered with grass, and in some places it is + marshy. The whole of the country to the north of the Zambesi is asserted + to be very much more fertile than that to the south. The Maravi, for + instance, raise sweet potatoes of immense size, but when these are planted + on the southern bank they soon degenerate. The root of this plant + ('Convolvulus batata') does not keep more than two or three days, unless + it is cut into thin slices and dried in the sun, but the Maravi manage to + preserve them for months by digging a pit and burying them therein + inclosed in wood-ashes. Unfortunately, the Maravi, and all the tribes on + that side of the country, are at enmity with the Portuguese, and, as they + practice night attacks in their warfare, it is dangerous to travel among + them. + </p> + <p> + 29TH. I was most sincerely thankful to find myself on the south bank of + the Zambesi, and, having nothing else, I sent back one of my two spoons + and a shirt as a thank-offering to Mpende. The different head men along + this river act very much in concert, and if one refuses passage they all + do, uttering the sage remark, "If so-and-so did not lend his canoes, he + must have had some good reason." The next island we came to was that of a + man named Mozinkwa. Here we were detained some days by continuous rains, + and thought we observed the confirmation of the Bakwain theory of rains. A + double tier of clouds floated quickly away to the west, and as soon as + they began to come in an opposite direction the rains poured down. The + inhabitants who live in a dry region like that of Kolobeng are nearly all + as weather-wise as the rain-makers, and any one living among them for any + length of time becomes as much interested in the motions of the clouds as + they are themselves. Mr. Moffat, who was as sorely tried by droughts as we + were, and had his attention directed in the same way, has noted the + curious phenomenon of thunder without clouds. Mrs. L. heard it once, but I + never had that good fortune. It is worth the attention of the observant. + Humboldt has seen rain without clouds, a phenomenon quite as singular. I + have been in the vicinity of the fall of three aerolites, none of which I + could afterward discover. One fell into the lake Kumadau with a report + somewhat like a sharp peal of thunder. The women of the Bakurutse villages + there all uttered a scream on hearing it. This happened at midday, and so + did another at what is called the Great Chuai, which was visible in its + descent, and was also accompanied with a thundering noise. The third fell + near Kuruman, and at night, and was seen as a falling star by people at + Motito and at Daniel's Kuil, places distant forty miles on opposite sides + of the spot. It sounded to me like the report of a great gun, and a few + seconds after, a lesser sound, as if striking the earth after a rebound. + Does the passage of a few such aerolites through the atmosphere to the + earth by day cause thunder without clouds? + </p> + <p> + We were detained here so long that my tent became again quite rotten. One + of my men, after long sickness, which I did not understand, died here. He + was one of the Batoka, and when unable to walk I had some difficulty in + making his companions carry him. They wished to leave him to die when his + case became hopeless. Another of them deserted to Mozinkwa. He said that + his motive for doing so was that the Makololo had killed both his father + and mother, and, as he had neither wife nor child, there was no reason why + he should continue longer with them. I did not object to his statements, + but said if he should change his mind he would be welcome to rejoin us, + and intimated to Mozinkwa that he must not be sold as a slave. We are now + among people inured to slave-dealing. We were visited by men who had been + as far as Tete or Nyungwe, and were told that we were but ten days from + that fort. One of them, a Mashona man, who had come from a great distance + to the southwest, was anxious to accompany us to the country of the white + men; he had traveled far, and I found that he had also knowledge of the + English tribe, and of their hatred to the trade in slaves. He told Sekwebu + that the "English were men", an emphasis being put upon the term MEN, + which leaves the impression that others are, as they express it in + speaking scornfully, "only THINGS". Several spoke in the same manner, and + I found that from Mpende's downward I rose higher every day in the + estimation of my own people. Even the slaves gave a very high character to + the English, and I found out afterward that, when I was first reported at + Tete, the servants of my friend the commandant said to him in joke, "Ah! + this is our brother who is coming; we shall all leave you and go with + him." We had still, however, some difficulties in store for us before + reaching that point. + </p> + <p> + The man who wished to accompany us came and told us before our departure + that his wife would not allow him to go, and she herself came to confirm + the decision. Here the women have only a small puncture in the upper lip, + in which they insert a little button of tin. The perforation is made by + degrees, a ring with an opening in it being attached to the lip, and the + ends squeezed gradually together. The pressure on the flesh between the + ends of the ring causes its absorption, and a hole is the result. Children + may be seen with the ring on the lip, but not yet punctured. The tin they + purchase from the Portuguese, and, although silver is reported to have + been found in former times in this district, no one could distinguish it + from tin. But they had a knowledge of gold, and for the first time I heard + the word "dalama" (gold) in the native language. The word is quite unknown + in the interior, and so is the metal itself. In conversing with the + different people, we found the idea prevalent that those who had purchased + slaves from them had done them an injury. "All the slaves of Nyungwe," + said one, "are our children; the Bazunga have made a town at our expense." + When I asked if they had not taken the prices offered them, they at once + admitted it, but still thought that they had been injured by being so far + tempted. From the way in which the lands of Zumbo were spoken of as still + belonging to the Portuguese (and they are said to have been obtained by + purchase), I was inclined to conclude that the purchase of land is not + looked upon by the inhabitants in the same light as the purchase of + slaves. + </p> + <p> + FEBRUARY 1ST. We met some native traders, and, as many of my men were now + in a state of nudity, I bought some American calico marked "Lawrence + Mills, Lowell", with two small tusks, and distributed it among the most + needy. After leaving Mozinkwa's we came to the Zingesi, a sand-rivulet in + flood (lat. 15d 38' 34" S., long. 31d 1' E.). It was sixty or seventy + yards wide, and waist-deep. Like all these sand-rivers, it is for the most + part dry; but by digging down a few feet, water is to be found, which is + percolating along the bed on a stratum of clay. This is the phenomenon + which is dignified by the name of "a river flowing under ground." In + trying to ford this I felt thousands of particles of coarse sand striking + my legs, and the slight disturbance of our footsteps caused deep holes to + be made in the bed. The water, which is almost always very rapid in them, + dug out the sand beneath our feet in a second or two, and we were all + sinking by that means so deep that we were glad to relinquish the attempt + to ford it before we got half way over; the oxen were carried away down + into the Zambesi. These sand-rivers remove vast masses of disintegrated + rock before it is fine enough to form soil. The man who preceded me was + only thigh-deep, but the disturbance caused by his feet made it + breast-deep for me. The shower of particles and gravel which struck + against my legs gave me the idea that the amount of matter removed by + every freshet must be very great. In most rivers where much wearing is + going on, a person diving to the bottom may hear literally thousands of + stones knocking against each other. This attrition, being carried on for + hundreds of miles in different rivers, must have an effect greater than if + all the pestles and mortars and mills of the world were grinding and + wearing away the rocks. The pounding to which I refer may be heard most + distinctly in the Vaal River, when that is slightly in flood. It was there + I first heard it. In the Leeambye, in the middle of the country, where + there is no discoloration, and little carried along but sand, it is not to + be heard. + </p> + <p> + While opposite the village of a head man called Mosusa, a number of + elephants took refuge on an island in the river. There were two males, and + a third not full grown; indeed, scarcely the size of a female. This was + the first instance I had ever seen of a comparatively young one with the + males, for they usually remain with the female herd till as large as their + dams. The inhabitants were very anxious that my men should attack them, as + they go into the gardens on the islands, and do much damage. The men went, + but the elephants ran about half a mile to the opposite end of the island, + and swam to the main land with their probosces above the water, and, no + canoe being near, they escaped. They swim strongly, with the proboscis + erect in the air. I was not very desirous to have one of these animals + killed, for we understood that when we passed Mpende we came into a + country where the game-laws are strictly enforced. The lands of each chief + are very well defined, the boundaries being usually marked by rivulets, + great numbers of which flow into the Zambesi from both banks, and, if an + elephant is wounded on one man's land and dies on that of another, the + under half of the carcass is claimed by the lord of the soil; and so + stringent is the law, that the hunter can not begin at once to cut up his + own elephant, but must send notice to the lord of the soil on which it + lies, and wait until that personage sends one authorized to see a fair + partition made. If the hunter should begin to cut up before the agent of + the landowner arrives, he is liable to lose both the tusks and all the + flesh. The hind leg of a buffalo must also be given to the man on whose + land the animal was grazing, and a still larger quantity of the eland, + which here and every where else in the country is esteemed right royal + food. In the country above Zumbo we did not find a vestige of this law; + and but for the fact that it existed in the country of the Bamapela, far + to the south of this, I should have been disposed to regard it in the same + light as I do the payment for leave to pass—an imposition levied on + him who is seen to be weak because in the hands of his slaves. The only + game-laws in the interior are, that the man who first wounds an animal, + though he has inflicted but a mere scratch, is considered the killer of + it; the second is entitled to a hind quarter, and the third to a fore leg. + The chiefs are generally entitled to a share as tribute; in some parts it + is the breast, in others the whole of the ribs and one fore leg. I + generally respected this law, although exceptions are sometimes made when + animals are killed by guns. The knowledge that he who succeeds in reaching + the wounded beast first is entitled to a share stimulates the whole party + to greater exertions in dispatching it. One of my men, having a knowledge + of elephant medicine, was considered the leader in the hunt; he went + before the others, examined the animals, and on his decision all depended. + If he decided to attack a herd, the rest went boldly on; but if he + declined, none of them would engage. A certain part of the elephant + belonged to him by right of the office he held, and such was the faith in + medicine held by the slaves of the Portuguese whom we met hunting, that + they offered to pay this man handsomely if he would show them the elephant + medicine. + </p> + <p> + When near Mosusa's village we passed a rivulet called Chowe, now running + with rain-water. The inhabitants there extract a little salt from the sand + when it is dry, and all the people of the adjacent country come to + purchase it from them. This was the first salt we had met with since + leaving Angola, for none is to be found in either the country of the + Balonda or Barotse; but we heard of salt-pans about a fortnight west of + Naliele, and I got a small supply from Mpololo while there. That had long + since been finished, and I had again lived two months without salt, + suffering no inconvenience except an occasional longing for animal food or + milk. + </p> + <p> + In marching along, the rich reddish-brown soil was so clammy that it was + very difficult to walk. It is, however, extremely fertile, and the people + cultivate amazing quantities of corn, maize, millet, ground-nuts, + pumpkins, and cucumbers. We observed that, when plants failed in one spot, + they were in the habit of transplanting them into another, and they had + also grown large numbers of young plants on the islands, where they are + favored by moisture from the river, and were now removing them to the main + land. The fact of their being obliged to do this shows that there is less + rain here than in Londa, for there we observed the grain in all stages of + its growth at the same time. + </p> + <p> + The people here build their huts in gardens on high stages. This is + necessary on account of danger from the spotted hyaena, which is said to + be very fierce, and also as a protection against lions and elephants. The + hyaena is a very cowardly animal, but frequently approaches persons lying + asleep, and makes an ugly gash on the face. Mozinkwa had lost his upper + lip in this way, and I have heard of men being killed by them; children, + too, are sometimes carried off; for, though he is so cowardly that the + human voice will make him run away at once, yet, when his teeth are in the + flesh, he holds on, and shows amazing power of jaw. Leg-bones of oxen, + from which the natives have extracted the marrow and every thing eatable, + are by this animal crunched up with the greatest ease, which he apparently + effects by turning them round in his teeth till they are in a suitable + position for being split. + </p> + <p> + We had now come among people who had plenty, and were really very liberal. + My men never returned from a village without some corn or maize in their + hands. The real politeness with which food is given by nearly all the + interior tribes, who have not had much intercourse with Europeans, makes + it a pleasure to accept. Again and again I have heard an apology made for + the smallness of the present, or regret expressed that they had not + received notice of my approach in time to grind more, and generally they + readily accepted our excuse at having nothing to give in return by saying + that they were quite aware that there are no white men's goods in the + interior. When I had it in my power, I always gave something really + useful. To Katema, Shinte, and others, I gave presents which cost me about + 2 Pounds each, and I could return to them at any time without having a + character for stinginess. How some men can offer three buttons, or some + other equally contemptible gift, while they have abundance in their + possession, is to me unaccountable. They surely do not know, when they + write it in their books, that they are declaring they have compromised the + honor of Englishmen. The people receive the offering with a degree of + shame, and ladies may be seen to hand it quickly to the attendants, and, + when they retire, laugh until the tears stand in their eyes, saying to + those about them, "Is that a white man? then there are niggards among them + too. Some of them are born without hearts!" One white trader, having + presented an OLD GUN to a chief, became a standing joke in the tribe: "The + white man who made a present of a gun that was new when his grandfather + was sucking his great-grandmother." When these tricks are repeated, the + natives come to the conclusion that people who show such a want of sense + must be told their duty; they therefore let them know what they ought to + give, and travelers then complain of being pestered with their "shameless + begging". I was troubled by importunity on the confines of civilization + only, and when I first came to Africa. + </p> + <p> + FEBRUARY 4TH. We were much detained by rains, a heavy shower without wind + falling every morning about daybreak; it often cleared up after that, + admitting of our moving on a few miles. A continuous rain of several hours + then set in. The wind up to this point was always from the east, but both + rain and wind now came so generally from the west, or opposite direction + to what we had been accustomed to in the interior, that we were obliged to + make our encampment face the east, in order to have them in our backs. The + country adjacent to the river abounds in large trees; but the population + is so numerous that, those left being all green, it is difficult to get + dry firewood. On coming to some places, too, we were warned by the + villagers not to cut the trees growing in certain spots, as they contained + the graves of their ancestors. There are many tamarind-trees, and another + very similar, which yields a fruit as large as a small walnut, of which + the elephants are very fond. It is called Motondo, and the Portuguese + extol its timber as excellent for building boats, as it does not soon rot + in water. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th we came to the village of Boroma, which is situated among a + number of others, each surrounded by extensive patches of cultivation. On + the opposite side of the river we have a great cluster of conical hills + called Chorichori. Boroma did not make his appearance, but sent a + substitute who acted civilly. I sent Sekwebu in the morning to state that + we intended to move on; his mother replied that, as she had expected that + we should remain, no food was ready, but she sent a basket of corn and a + fowl. As an excuse why Boroma did not present himself, she said that he + was seized that morning by the Barimo, which probably meant that his + lordship was drunk. + </p> + <p> + We marched along the river to a point opposite the hill Pinkwe (lat. 15d + 39' 11" S., long. 32d 5' E.), but the late abundant rains now flooded the + Zambesi again, and great quantities of wreck appeared upon the stream. It + is probable that frequent freshets, caused by the rains on this side of + the ridge, have prevented the Portuguese near the coast from recognizing + the one peculiar flood of inundation observed in the interior, and caused + the belief that it is flooded soon after the commencement of the rains. + The course of the Nile being in the opposite direction to this, it does + not receive these subsidiary waters, and hence its inundation is + recognized all the way along its course. If the Leeambye were prolonged + southward into the Cape Colony, its flood would be identical with that of + the Nile. It would not be influenced by any streams in the Kalahari, for + there, as in a corresponding part of the Nile, there would be no feeders. + It is to be remembered that the great ancient river which flowed to the + lake at Boochap took this course exactly, and probably flowed thither + until the fissure of the falls was made. + </p> + <p> + This flood having filled the river, we found the numerous rivulets which + flow into it filled also, and when going along the Zambesi, we lost so + much time in passing up each little stream till we could find a ford about + waist deep, and then returning to the bank, that I resolved to leave the + river altogether, and strike away to the southeast. We accordingly struck + off when opposite the hill Pinkwe, and came into a hard Mopane country. In + a hole of one of the mopane-trees I noticed that a squirrel ('Sciurus + cepapi') had placed a great number of fresh leaves over a store of seed. + It is not against the cold of winter that they thus lay up food, but it is + a provision against the hot season, when the trees have generally no seed. + A great many silicified trees are met with lying on the ground all over + this part of the country; some are broken off horizontally, and stand + upright; others are lying prone, and broken across into a number of + pieces. One was 4 feet 8 inches in diameter, and the wood must have been + soft like that of the baobab, for there were only six concentric rings to + the inch. As the semidiameter was only 28 inches, this large tree could + have been but 168 years old. I found also a piece of palm-tree transformed + into oxide of iron, and the pores filled with pure silica. These fossil + trees lie upon soft gray sandstone containing banks of shingle, which + forms the underlying rock of the country all the way from Zumbo to near + Lupata. It is met with at Litubaruba and in Angola, with similar banks of + shingle imbedded exactly like those now seen on the sea-beach, but I never + could find a shell. There are many nodules and mounds of hardened clay + upon it, which seem to have been deposited in eddies made round the roots + of these ancient trees, for they appear of different colors in wavy and + twisted lines. Above this we have small quantities of calcareous marl. + </p> + <p> + As we were now in the district of Chicova, I examined the geological + structure of the country with interest, because here, it has been stated, + there once existed silver mines. The general rock is the gray soft + sandstone I have mentioned, but at the rivulet Bangue we come upon a dike + of basalt six yards wide, running north and south. When we cross this, we + come upon several others, some of which run more to the eastward. The + sandstone is then found to have been disturbed, and at the rivulet called + Nake we found it tilted up and exhibiting a section, which was coarse + sandstone above, sandstone-flag, shale, and, lastly, a thin seam of coal. + The section was only shown for a short distance, and then became lost by a + fault made by a dike of basalt, which ran to the E.N.E. in the direction + of Chicova. + </p> + <p> + This Chicova is not a kingdom, as has been stated, but a level tract, a + part of which is annually overflowed by the Zambesi, and is well adapted + for the cultivation of corn. It is said to be below the northern end of + the hill Bungwe. I was very much pleased in discovering this small + specimen of such a precious mineral as coal. I saw no indication of + silver, and, if it ever was worked by the natives, it is remarkable that + they have entirely lost the knowledge of it, and can not distinguish + between silver and tin. In connection with these basaltic dikes, it may be + mentioned that when I reached Tete I was informed of the existence of a + small rapid in the river near Chicova; had I known this previously, I + certainly would not have left the river without examining it. It is called + Kebrabasa, and is described as a number of rocks which jut out across the + stream. I have no doubt but that it is formed by some of the basaltic + dikes which we now saw, for they generally ran toward that point. I was + partly influenced in leaving the river by a wish to avoid several chiefs + in that direction, who levy a heavy tribute on those who pass up or down. + Our path lay along the bed of the Nake for some distance, the banks being + covered with impenetrable thickets. The villages are not numerous, but we + went from one to the other, and were treated kindly. Here they call + themselves Bambiri, though the general name of the whole nation is Banyai. + One of our guides was an inveterate talker, always stopping and asking for + pay, that he might go on with a merry heart. I thought that he led us in + the most difficult paths in order to make us feel his value, for, after + passing through one thicket after another, we always came into the bed of + the Nake again, and as that was full of coarse sand, and the water only + ankle deep, and as hot as a foot-bath from the powerful rays of the sun, + we were all completely tired out. He likewise gave us a bad character at + every village we passed, calling to them that they were to allow him to + lead us astray, as we were a bad set. Sekwebu knew every word he said, + and, as he became intolerable, I dismissed him, giving him six feet of + calico I had bought from native traders, and telling him that his tongue + was a nuisance. It is in general best, when a scolding is necessary, to + give it in combination with a present, and then end it by good wishes. + This fellow went off smiling, and my men remarked, "His tongue is cured + now." The country around the Nake is hilly, and the valleys covered with + tangled jungle. The people who live in this district have reclaimed their + gardens from the forest, and the soil is extremely fertile. The Nake flows + northerly, and then to the east. It is 50 or 60 yards wide, but during + most of the year is dry, affording water only by digging in the sand. We + found in its bed masses of volcanic rock, identical with those I + subsequently recognized as such at Aden. + </p> + <p> + 13TH. The head man of these parts is named Nyampungo. I sent the last + fragment of cloth we had, with a request that we should be furnished with + a guide to the next chief. After a long conference with his council, the + cloth was returned with a promise of compliance, and a request for some + beads only. This man is supposed to possess the charm for rain, and other + tribes send to him to beg it. This shows that what we inferred before was + correct, that less rain falls in this country than in Londa. Nyampungo + behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner, presented me with some rice, and + told my people to go among all the villages and beg for themselves. An old + man, father-in-law of the chief, told me that he had seen books before, + but never knew what they meant. They pray to departed chiefs and + relatives, but the idea of praying to God seemed new, and they heard it + with reverence. As this was an intelligent old man, I asked him about the + silver, but he was as ignorant of it as the rest, and said, "We never dug + silver, but we have washed for gold in the sands of the rivers Mazoe and + Luia, which unite in the Luenya." I think that this is quite conclusive on + the question of no silver having been dug by the natives of this district. + Nyampungo is afflicted with a kind of disease called Sesenda, which I + imagine to be a species of leprosy common in this quarter, though they are + a cleanly people. They never had cattle. The chief's father had always + lived in their present position, and, when I asked him why he did not + possess these useful animals, he said, "Who would give us the medicine to + enable us to keep them?" I found out the reason afterward in the + prevalence of tsetse, but of this he was ignorant, having supposed that he + could not keep cattle because he had no medicine. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 30. + </h2> + <p> + An Elephant-hunt—Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success— + Native Mode of Expression—Working of Game-laws—A Feast—Laughing + Hyaenas—Numerous Insects—Curious Notes of Birds of Song— + Caterpillars—Butterflies—Silica—The Fruit Makoronga and + Elephants —Rhinoceros Adventure—Korwe Bird—Its Nest—A + real Confinement— Honey and Beeswax—Superstitious Reverence + for the Lion—Slow Traveling—Grapes—The Ue—Monina's + Village—Native Names—Government of the Banyai—Electing a + Chief—Youths instructed in "Bonyai"—Suspected of Falsehood—War-dance—Insanity + and Disappearance of Monahin—Fruitless Search—Monina's + Sympathy—The Sand-river Tangwe—The Ordeal Muavi: its Victims—An + unreasonable Man—"Woman's Rights"—Presents—Temperance—A + winding Course to shun Villages— Banyai Complexion and Hair—Mushrooms—The + Tubers, Mokuri—The Tree Shekabakadzi—Face of the Country—Pot-holes—Pursued + by a Party of Natives—Unpleasant Threat—Aroused by a Company + of Soldiers—A civilized Breakfast—Arrival at Tete. + </p> + <p> + 14TH. We left Nyampungo this morning. The path wound up the Molinge, + another sand-river which flows into the Nake. When we got clear of the + tangled jungle which covers the banks of these rivulets, we entered the + Mopane country, where we could walk with comfort. When we had gone on a + few hours, my men espied an elephant, and were soon in full pursuit. They + were in want of meat, having tasted nothing but grain for several days. + The desire for animal food made them all eager to slay him, and, though an + old bull, he was soon killed. The people of Nyampungo had never seen such + desperadoes before. One rushed up and hamstrung the beast, while still + standing, by a blow with an axe. Some Banyai elephant-hunters happened to + be present when my men were fighting with him. One of them took out his + snuff-box, and poured out all its contents at the root of a tree as an + offering to the Barimo for success. As soon as the animal fell, the whole + of my party engaged in a wild, savage dance round the body, which quite + frightened the Banyai, and he who made the offering said to me, "I see you + are traveling with people who don't know how to pray: I therefore offered + the only thing I had in their behalf, and the elephant soon fell." One of + Nyampungo's men, who remained with me, ran a little forward, when an + opening in the trees gave us a view of the chase, and uttered loud prayers + for success in the combat. I admired the devout belief they all possessed + in the actual existence of unseen beings, and prayed that they might yet + know that benignant One who views us all as his own. My own people, who + are rather a degraded lot, remarked to me as I came up, "God gave it to + us. He said to the old beast, 'Go up there; men are come who will kill and + eat you.'" These remarks are quoted to give the reader an idea of the + native mode of expression. + </p> + <p> + As we were now in the country of stringent game-laws, we were obliged to + send all the way back to Nyampungo, to give information to a certain + person who had been left there by the real owner of this district to watch + over his property, the owner himself living near the Zambesi. The side + upon which the elephant fell had a short, broken tusk; the upper one, + which was ours, was large and thick. The Banyai remarked on our good luck. + The men sent to give notice came back late in the afternoon of the + following day. They brought a basket of corn, a fowl, and a few strings of + handsome beads, as a sort of thank-offering for our having killed it on + their land, and said they had thanked the Barimo besides for our success, + adding, "There it is; eat it and be glad." Had we begun to cut it up + before we got this permission, we should have lost the whole. They had + brought a large party to eat their half, and they divided it with us in a + friendly way. My men were delighted with the feast, though, by lying + unopened a whole day, the carcass was pretty far gone. An astonishing + number of hyaenas collected round, and kept up a loud laughter for two + whole nights. Some of them do make a very good imitation of a laugh. I + asked my men what the hyaenas were laughing at, as they usually give + animals credit for a share of intelligence. They said that they were + laughing because we could not take the whole, and that they would have + plenty to eat as well as we. + </p> + <p> + On coming to the part where the elephant was slain, we passed through + grass so tall that it reminded me of that in the valley of Cassange. + Insects are very numerous after the rains commence. While waiting by the + elephant, I observed a great number of insects, like grains of fine sand, + moving on my boxes. On examination with a glass, four species were + apparent; one of green and gold preening its wings, which glanced in the + sun with metallic lustre; another clear as crystal; a third of the color + of vermilion; and a fourth black. These are probably some of those which + consume the seeds of every plant that grows. Almost every kind has its own + peculiar insect, and when the rains are over very few seeds remain + untouched. The rankest poisons, as the Kongwhane and Euphorbia, are soon + devoured; the former has a scarlet insect; and even the fiery bird's-eye + pepper, which will keep off many others from their own seeds, is itself + devoured by a maggot. I observed here, what I had often seen before, that + certain districts abound in centipedes. Here they have light reddish + bodies and blue legs; great myriapedes are seen crawling every where. + Although they do no harm, they excite in man a feeling of loathing. + Perhaps our appearance produces a similar feeling in the elephant and + other large animals. Where they have been much disturbed, they certainly + look upon us with great distrust, as the horrid biped that ruins their + peace. In the quietest parts of the forest there is heard a faint but + distinct hum, which tells of insect joy. One may see many whisking about + in the clear sunshine in patches among the green glancing leaves; but + there are invisible myriads working with never-tiring mandibles on leaves, + and stalks, and beneath the soil. They are all brimful of enjoyment. + Indeed, the universality of organic life may be called a mantle of happy + existence encircling the world, and imparts the idea of its being caused + by the consciousness of our benignant Father's smile on all the works of + His hands. + </p> + <p> + The birds of the tropics have been described as generally wanting in power + of song. I was decidedly of opinion that this was not applicable to many + parts in Londa, though birds there are remarkably scarce. Here the chorus, + or body of song, was not much smaller in volume than it is in England. It + was not so harmonious, and sounded always as if the birds were singing in + a foreign tongue. Some resemble the lark, and, indeed, there are several + of that family; two have notes not unlike those of the thrush. One brought + the chaffinch to my mind, and another the robin; but their songs are + intermixed with several curious abrupt notes unlike any thing English. One + utters deliberately "peek, pak, pok"; another has a single note like a + stroke on a violin-string. The mokwa reza gives forth a screaming set of + notes like our blackbird when disturbed, then concludes with what the + natives say is "pula, pula" (rain, rain), but more like "weep, weep, + weep". Then we have the loud cry of francolins, the "pumpuru, pumpuru" of + turtle-doves, and the "chiken, chiken, chik, churr, churr" of the + honey-guide. Occasionally, near villages, we have a kind of mocking-bird, + imitating the calls of domestic fowls. These African birds have not been + wanting in song; they have only lacked poets to sing their praises, which + ours have had from the time of Aristophanes downward. Ours have both a + classic and a modern interest to enhance their fame. In hot, dry weather, + or at midday when the sun is fierce, all are still: let, however, a good + shower fall, and all burst forth at once into merry lays and loving + courtship. The early mornings and the cool evenings are their favorite + times for singing. There are comparatively few with gaudy plumage, being + totally unlike, in this respect, the birds of the Brazils. The majority + have decidedly a sober dress, though collectors, having generally selected + the gaudiest as the most valuable, have conveyed the idea that the birds + of the tropics for the most part possess gorgeous plumage. + </p> + <p> + 15TH. Several of my men have been bitten by spiders and other insects, but + no effect except pain has followed. A large caterpillar is frequently + seen, called lezuntabuea. It is covered with long gray hairs, and, the + body being dark, it resembles a porcupine in miniature. If one touches it, + the hairs run into the pores of the skin, and remain there, giving sharp + pricks. There are others which have a similar means of defense; and when + the hand is drawn across them, as in passing a bush on which they happen + to be, the contact resembles the stinging of nettles. From the great + number of caterpillars seen, we have a considerable variety of + butterflies. One particular kind flies more like a swallow than a + butterfly. They are not remarkable for the gaudiness of their colors. + </p> + <p> + In passing along we crossed the hills Vungue or Mvungwe, which we found to + be composed of various eruptive rocks. At one part we have breccia of + altered marl or slate in quartz, and various amygdaloids. It is curious to + observe the different forms which silica assumes. We have it in claystone + porphyry here, in minute round globules, no larger than turnip-seed, + dotted thickly over the matrix; or crystallized round the walls of + cavities, once filled with air or other elastic fluid; or it may appear in + similar cavities as tufts of yellow asbestos, or as red, yellow, or green + crystals, or in laminae so arranged as to appear like fossil wood. Vungue + forms the watershed between those sand rivulets which run to the N.E., and + others which flow southward, as the Kapopo, Ue, and Due, which run into + the Luia. + </p> + <p> + We found that many elephants had been feeding on the fruit called + Mokoronga. This is a black-colored plum, having purple juice. We all ate + it in large quantities, as we found it delicious. The only defect it has + is the great size of the seed in comparison with the pulp. This is the + chief fault of all uncultivated wild fruits. The Mokoronga exists + throughout this part of the country most abundantly, and the natives + eagerly devour it, as it is said to be perfectly wholesome, or, as they + express it, "It is pure fat," and fat is by them considered the best of + food. Though only a little larger than a cherry, we found that the + elephants had stood picking them off patiently by the hour. We observed + the footprints of a black rhinoceros ('Rhinoceros bicornis', Linn.) and + her calf. We saw other footprints among the hills of Semalembue, but the + black rhinoceros is remarkably scarce in all the country north of the + Zambesi. The white rhinoceros ('Rhinoceros simus' of Burchell), or Mohohu + of the Bechuanas, is quite extinct here, and will soon become unknown in + the country to the south. It feeds almost entirely on grasses, and is of a + timid, unsuspecting disposition: this renders it an easy prey, and they + are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction of fire-arms. The black + possesses a more savage nature, and, like the ill-natured in general, is + never found with an ounce of fat in its body. From its greater fierceness + and wariness, it holds its place in a district much longer than its more + timid and better-conditioned neighbor. Mr. Oswell was once stalking two of + these beasts, and, as they came slowly to him, he, knowing that there is + but little chance of hitting the small brain of this animal by a shot in + the head, lay expecting one of them to give his shoulder till he was + within a few yards. The hunter then thought that by making a rush to his + side he might succeed in escaping, but the rhinoceros, too quick for that, + turned upon him, and, though he discharged his gun close to the animal's + head, he was tossed in the air. My friend was insensible for some time, + and, on recovering, found large wounds on the thigh and body: I saw that + on the former part still open, and five inches long. The white, however, + is not always quite safe, for one, even after it was mortally wounded, + attacked Mr. Oswell's horse, and thrust the horn through to the saddle, + tossing at the time both horse and rider. I once saw a white rhinoceros + give a buffalo, which was gazing intently at myself, a poke in the chest, + but it did not wound it, and seemed only a hint to get out of the way. + Four varieties of the rhinoceros are enumerated by naturalists, but my + observation led me to conclude that there are but two, and that the extra + species have been formed from differences in their sizes, ages, and the + direction of the horns, as if we should reckon the short-horned cattle a + different species from the Alderneys or the Highland breed. I was led to + this from having once seen a black rhinoceros with a horn bent downward + like that of the kuabaoba, and also because the animals of the two great + varieties differ very much in appearance at different stages of their + growth. I find, however, that Dr. Smith, the best judge in these matters, + is quite decided as to the propriety of the subdivision into three or four + species. For common readers, it is sufficient to remember that there are + two well-defined species, that differ entirely in appearance and food. The + absence of both these rhinoceroses among the reticulated rivers in the + central valley may easily be accounted for, they would be such an easy + prey to the natives in their canoes at the periods of inundation; but one + can not so readily account for the total absence of the giraffe and + ostrich on the high open lands of the Batoka, north of the Zambesi, unless + we give credence to the native report which bounds the country still + farther north by another network of waters near Lake Shuia, and suppose + that it also prevented their progress southward. The Batoka have no name + for the giraffe or the ostrich in their language; yet, as the former + exists in considerable numbers in the angle formed by the Leeambye and + Chobe, they may have come from the north along the western ridge. The + Chobe would seem to have been too narrow to act as an obstacle to the + giraffe, supposing it to have come into that district from the south; but + the broad river into which that stream flows seems always to have + presented an impassable barrier to both the giraffe and the ostrich, + though they abound on its southern border, both in the Kalahari Desert and + the country of Mashona. + </p> + <p> + We passed through large tracts of Mopane country, and my men caught a + great many of the birds called Korwe ('Tockus erythrorhynchus') in their + breeding-places, which were in holes in the mopane-trees. On the 19th we + passed the nest of a korwe just ready for the female to enter; the orifice + was plastered on both sides, but a space was left of a heart shape, and + exactly the size of the bird's body. The hole in the tree was in every + case found to be prolonged some distance upward above the opening, and + thither the korwe always fled to escape being caught. In another nest we + found that one white egg, much like that of a pigeon, was laid, and the + bird dropped another when captured. She had four besides in the ovarium. + The first time that I saw this bird was at Kolobeng, where I had gone to + the forest for some timber. Standing by a tree, a native looked behind me + and exclaimed, "There is the nest of a korwe." I saw a slit only, about + half an inch wide and three or four inches long, in a slight hollow of the + tree. Thinking the word korwe denoted some small animal, I waited with + interest to see what he would extract; he broke the clay which surrounded + the slit, put his arm into the hole, and brought out a 'Tockus', or + 'red-beaked hornbill', which he killed. He informed me that, when the + female enters her nest, she submits to a real confinement. The male + plasters up the entrance, leaving only a narrow slit by which to feed his + mate, and which exactly suits the form of his beak. The female makes a + nest of her own feathers, lays her eggs, hatches them, and remains with + the young till they are fully fledged. During all this time, which is + stated to be two or three months, the male continues to feed her and the + young family. The prisoner generally becomes quite fat, and is esteemed a + very dainty morsel by the natives, while the poor slave of a husband gets + so lean that, on the sudden lowering of the temperature which sometimes + happens after a fall of rain, he is benumbed, falls down, and dies. I + never had an opportunity of ascertaining the actual length of the + confinement, but on passing the same tree at Kolobeng about eight days + afterward the hole was plastered up again, as if, in the short time that + had elapsed, the disconsolate husband had secured another wife. We did not + disturb her, and my duties prevented me from returning to the spot. This + is the month in which the female enters the nest. We had seen one of + these, as before mentioned, with the plastering not quite finished; we saw + many completed; and we received the very same account here that we did at + Kolobeng, that the bird comes forth when the young are fully fledged, at + the period when the corn is ripe; indeed, her appearance abroad with her + young is one of the signs they have for knowing when it ought to be so. As + that is about the end of April, the time is between two and three months. + She is said sometimes to hatch two eggs, and, when the young of these are + full-fledged, other two are just out of the egg-shells: she then leaves + the nest with the two elder, the orifice is again plastered up, and both + male and female attend to the wants of the young which are left. On + several occasions I observed a branch bearing the marks of the male having + often sat upon it when feeding his mate, and the excreta had been expelled + a full yard from the orifice, and often proved a means of discovering the + retreat. + </p> + <p> + The honey-guides were very assiduous in their friendly offices, and + enabled my men to get a large quantity of honey. But, though bees abound, + the wax of these parts forms no article of trade. In Londa it may be said + to be fully cared for, as you find hives placed upon trees in the most + lonesome forests. We often met strings of carriers laden with large blocks + of this substance, each 80 or 100 lbs. in weight, and pieces were offered + to us for sale at every village; but here we never saw a single artificial + hive. The bees were always found in the natural cavities of mopane-trees. + It is probable that the good market for wax afforded to Angola by the + churches of Brazil led to the gradual development of that branch of + commerce there. I saw even on the banks of the Quango as much as sixpence + paid for a pound. In many parts of the Batoka country bees exist in vast + numbers, and the tribute due to Sekeletu is often paid in large jars of + honey; but, having no market nor use for the wax, it is thrown away. This + was the case also with ivory at the Lake Ngami, at the period of its + discovery. The reports brought by my other party from Loanda of the value + of wax had induced some of my present companions to bring small quantities + of it to Tete, but, not knowing the proper mode of preparing it, it was so + dark colored that no one would purchase it; I afterward saw a little at + Kilimane which had been procured from the natives somewhere in this + region. + </p> + <p> + Though we are now approaching the Portuguese settlement, the country is + still full of large game. My men killed six buffalo calves out of a herd + we met. The abundance of these animals, and also of antelopes, shows the + insufficiency of the bow and arrow to lessen their numbers. There are also + a great many lions and hyaenas, and there is no check upon the increase of + the former, for the people, believing that the souls of their chiefs enter + into them, never attempt to kill them; they even believe that a chief may + metamorphose himself into a lion, kill any one he chooses, and then return + to the human form; therefore, when they see one, they commence clapping + their hands, which is the usual mode of salutation here. The consequence + is, that lions and hyaenas are so abundant that we see little huts made in + the trees, indicating the places where some of the inhabitants have slept + when benighted in the fields. As numbers of my men frequently left the + line of march in order to take out the korwes from their nests, or follow + the honey-guides, they excited the astonishment of our guides, who were + constantly warning them of the danger they thereby incurred from lions. I + was often considerably ahead of the main body of my men on this account, + and was obliged to stop every hour or two; but, the sun being excessively + hot by day, I was glad of the excuse for resting. We could make no such + prodigious strides as officers in the Arctic regions are able to do. Ten + or twelve miles a day were a good march for both the men and myself; and + it was not the length of the marches, but continuing day after day to + perform the same distance, that was so fatiguing. It was in this case much + longer than appears on the map, because we kept out of the way of + villages. I drank less than the natives when riding, but all my clothing + was now constantly damp from the moisture which was imbibed in large + quantities at every pond. One does not stay on these occasions to prepare + water with alum or any thing else, but drinks any amount without fear. I + never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying lands of the + Zambesi, and yet it was becoming cooler than it was on the highlands. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the rivulets Kapopo and Ue, now running, but usually dry. There + are great numbers of wild grape-vines growing in this quarter; indeed, + they abound every where along the banks of the Zambesi. In the Batoka + country there is a variety which yields a black grape of considerable + sweetness. The leaves are very large and harsh, as if capable of + withstanding the rays of this hot sun; but the most common kinds—one + with a round leaf and a greenish grape, and another with a leaf closely + resembling that of the cultivated varieties, and with dark or purple fruit—have + large seeds, which are strongly astringent, and render it a disagreeable + fruit. The natives eat all the varieties; and I tasted vinegar made by a + Portuguese from these grapes. Probably a country which yields the wild + vines so very abundantly might be a fit one for the cultivated species. At + this part of the journey so many of the vines had run across the little + footpath we followed that one had to be constantly on the watch to avoid + being tripped. The ground was covered with rounded shingle, which was not + easily seen among the grass. Pedestrianism may be all very well for those + whose obesity requires much exercise, but for one who was becoming as thin + as a lath, through the constant perspiration caused by marching day after + day in the hot sun, the only good I saw in it was that it gave an honest + sort of man a vivid idea of the tread-mill. + </p> + <p> + Although the rains were not quite over, great numbers of pools were drying + up, and the ground was in many parts covered with small green cryptogamous + plants, which gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell. As we + sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation which hung over our + path, we felt a sort of hot blast on our faces. Every thing looked + unwholesome, but we had no fever. The Ue flows between high banks of a + soft red sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa. The crumbling + sandstone is evidently alluvial, and is cut into 12 feet deep. In this + region, too, we met with pot-holes six feet deep and three or four in + diameter. In some cases they form convenient wells; in others they are + full of earth; and in others still the people have made them into graves + for their chiefs. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th we came to Monina's village (close to the sand-river Tangwe, + latitude 16d 13' 38" south, longitude 32d 32' east). This man is very + popular among the tribes on account of his liberality. Boroma, Nyampungo, + Monina, Jira, Katolosa (Monomotapa), and Susa, all acknowledge the + supremacy of one called Nyatewe, who is reported to decide all disputes + respecting land. This confederation is exactly similar to what we observed + in Londa and other parts of Africa. Katolosa is "the Emperor Monomotapa" + of history, but he is a chief of no great power, and acknowledges the + supremacy of Nyatewe. The Portuguese formerly honored Monomotapa with a + guard, to fire off numbers of guns on the occasion of any funeral, and he + was also partially subsidized. The only evidence of greatness possessed by + his successor is his having about a hundred wives. When he dies a disputed + succession and much fighting are expected. In reference to the term + Monomotapa, it is to be remembered that Mono, Moene, Mona, Mana, or + Morena, mean simply 'chief', and considerable confusion has arisen from + naming different people by making a plural of the chief's name. The names + Monomoizes, spelled also Monemuiges and Monomuizes, and Monomotapistas, + when applied to these tribes, are exactly the same as if we should call + the Scotch the Lord Douglases. Motape was the chief of the Bambiri, a + tribe of the Banyai, and is now represented in the person of Katolosa. He + was probably a man of greater energy than his successor, yet only an + insignificant chief. Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or Muiza, the + singular of the word Babisa or Aiza, the proper name of a large tribe to + the north. In the transformation of this name the same error has been + committed as in the others; and mistakes have occurred in many other names + by inattention to the meaning, and predilection for the letter R. The + River Loangwa, for instance, has been termed Arroangoa, and the Luenya the + Ruanha. The Bazizulu, or Mashona, are spoken of as the Morururus. + </p> + <p> + The government of the Banyai is rather peculiar, being a sort of feudal + republicanism. The chief is elected, and they choose the son of the + deceased chief's sister in preference to his own offspring. When + dissatisfied with one candidate, they even go to a distant tribe for a + successor, who is usually of the family of the late chief, a brother, or a + sister's son, but never his own son or daughter. When first spoken to on + the subject, he answers as if he thought himself unequal to the task and + unworthy of the honor; but, having accepted it, all the wives, goods, and + children of his predecessor belong to him, and he takes care to keep them + in a dependent position. When any one of them becomes tired of this state + of vassalage and sets up his own village, it is not unusual for the + elected chief to send a number of the young men, who congregate about + himself, to visit him. If he does not receive them with the usual amount + of clapping of hands and humility, they, in obedience to orders, at once + burn his village. The children of the chief have fewer privileges than + common free men. They may not be sold, but, rather than choose any one of + them for a chief at any future time, the free men would prefer to elect + one of themselves, who bore only a very distant relationship to the + family. These free men are a distinct class who can never be sold; and + under them there is a class of slaves whose appearance as well as position + is very degraded. Monina had a great number of young men about him from + twelve to fifteen years of age. These were all sons of free men, and bands + of young men like them in the different districts leave their parents + about the age of puberty, and live with such men as Monina for the sake of + instruction. When I asked the nature of the instruction, I was told + "Bonyai", which I suppose may be understood as indicating manhood, for it + sounds as if we should say, "to teach an American Americanism," or "an + Englishman to be English." While here they are kept in subjection to + rather stringent regulations. They must salute carefully by clapping their + hands on approaching a superior, and when any cooked food is brought, the + young men may not approach the dish, but an elder divides a portion to + each. They remain unmarried until a fresh set of youths is ready to occupy + their place under the same instruction. The parents send servants with + their sons to cultivate gardens to supply them with food, and also tusks + to Monina to purchase clothing for them. When the lads return to the + village of their parents, a case is submitted to them for adjudication, + and if they speak well on the point, the parents are highly gratified. + </p> + <p> + When we told Monina that we had nothing to present but some hoes, he + replied that he was not in need of those articles, and that he had + absolute power over the country in front, and if he prevented us from + proceeding, no one would say any thing to him. His little boy Boromo + having come to the encampment to look at us, I gave him a knife, and he + went off and brought a pint of honey for me. The father came soon + afterward, and I offered him a shirt. He remarked to his councilors, "It + is evident that this man has nothing, for, if he had, his people would be + buying provisions, but we don't see them going about for that purpose." + His council did not agree in this. They evidently believed that we had + goods, but kept them hid, and we felt it rather hard to be suspected of + falsehood. It was probably at their suggestion that in the evening a + wardance was got up about a hundred yards from our encampment, as if to + put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents. Some of Monina's + young men had guns, but most were armed with large bows, arrows, and + spears. They beat their drums furiously, and occasionally fired off a gun. + As this sort of dance is never got up unless there is an intention to + attack, my men expected an assault. We sat and looked at them for some + time, and then, as it became dark, lay down, all ready to give them a warm + reception. But an hour or two after dark the dance ceased, and, as we then + saw no one approaching us, we went to sleep. During the night, one of my + head men, Monahin, was seen to get up, look toward the village, and say to + one who was half awake, "Don't you hear what these people are saying? Go + and listen." He then walked off in the opposite direction, and never + returned. We had no guard set, but every one lay with his spear in his + hand. The man to whom he spoke appears to have been in a dreamy condition, + for it did not strike him that he ought to give the alarm. Next morning I + found to my sorrow that Monahin was gone, and not a trace of him could be + discovered. He had an attack of pleuritis some weeks before, and had + recovered, but latterly complained a little of his head. I observed him in + good spirits on the way hither, and in crossing some of the streams, as I + was careful not to wet my feet, he aided me, and several times joked at my + becoming so light. In the evening he sat beside my tent until it was dark, + and did not manifest any great alarm. It was probably either a sudden fit + of insanity, or, having gone a little way out from the camp, he may have + been carried off by a lion, as this part of the country is full of them. I + incline to the former opinion, because sudden insanity occurs when there + is any unusual strain upon their minds. Monahin was in command of the + Batoka of Mokwine in my party, and he was looked upon with great dislike + by all that chief's subjects. The only difficulties I had with them arose + in consequence of being obliged to give orders through him. They said + Mokwine is reported to have been killed by the Makololo, but Monahin is + the individual who put forth his hand and slew him. When one of these + people kills in battle, he seems to have no compunction afterward; but + when he makes a foray on his own responsibility, and kills a man of note, + the common people make remarks to each other, which are reported to him, + and bring the affair perpetually to his remembrance. This iteration on the + conscience causes insanity, and when one runs away in a wide country like + this, the fugitive is never heard of. Monahin had lately become afraid of + his own party from overhearing their remarks, and said more than once to + me, "They want to kill me." I believe if he ran to any village they would + take care of him. I felt his loss greatly, and spent three days in + searching for him. He was a sensible and most obliging man. I sent in the + morning to inform Monina of this sad event, and he at once sent to all the + gardens around, desiring the people to look for him, and, should he come + near, to bring him home. He evidently sympathized with us in our sorrow, + and, afraid lest we might suspect him, added, "We never catch nor kidnap + people here. It is not our custom. It is considered as guilt among all the + tribes." I gave him credit for truthfulness, and he allowed us to move on + without farther molestation. + </p> + <p> + After leaving his village we marched in the bed of a sand-river a quarter + of a mile broad, called Tangwe. Walking on this sand is as fatiguing as + walking on snow. The country is flat, and covered with low trees, but we + see high hills in the distance. A little to the south we have those of the + Lobole. This region is very much infested by lions, and men never go any + distance into the woods alone. Having turned aside on one occasion at + midday, and gone a short distance among grass a little taller than myself, + an animal sprung away from me which was certainly not an antelope, but I + could not distinguish whether it was a lion or a hyaena. This abundance of + carnivora made us lose all hope of Monahin. We saw footprints of many + black rhinoceroses, buffaloes, and zebras. + </p> + <p> + After a few hours we reached the village of Nyakoba. Two men, who + accompanied us from Monina to Nyakoba's, would not believe us when we said + that we had no beads. It is very trying to have one's veracity doubted, + but, on opening the boxes, and showing them that all I had was perfectly + useless to them, they consented to receive some beads off Sekwebu's waist, + and I promised to send four yards of calico from Tete. As we came away + from Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had been sent for, arrived, and + all Monina's wives went forth into the fields that morning fasting. There + they would be compelled to drink an infusion of a plant named "goho", + which is used as an ordeal. This ceremony is called "muavi", and is + performed in this way. When a man suspects that any of his wives has + bewitched him, he sends for the witch-doctor, and all the wives go forth + into the field, and remain fasting till that person has made an infusion + of the plant. They all drink it, each one holding up her hand to heaven in + attestation of her innocency. Those who vomit it are considered innocent, + while those whom it purges are pronounced guilty, and put to death by + burning. The innocent return to their homes, and slaughter a cock as a + thank-offering to their guardian spirits. The practice of ordeal is common + among all the negro nations north of the Zambesi. This summary procedure + excited my surprise, for my intercourse with the natives here had led me + to believe that the women were held in so much estimation that the men + would not dare to get rid of them thus. But the explanation I received was + this. The slightest imputation makes them eagerly desire the test; they + are conscious of being innocent, and have the fullest faith in the muavi + detecting the guilty alone; hence they go willingly, and even eagerly, to + drink it. When in Angola, a half-caste was pointed out to me who is one of + the most successful merchants in that country; and the mother of this + gentleman, who was perfectly free, went, of her own accord, all the way + from Ambaca to Cassange, to be killed by the ordeal, her rich son making + no objection. The same custom prevails among the Barotse, Bashubia, and + Batoka, but with slight variations. The Barotse, for instance, pour the + medicine down the throat of a cock or of a dog, and judge of the innocence + or guilt of the person accused according to the vomiting or purging of the + animal. I happened to mention to my own men the water-test for witches + formerly in use in Scotland: the supposed witch, being bound hand and + foot, was thrown into a pond; if she floated, she was considered guilty, + taken out, and burned; but if she sank and was drowned, she was pronounced + innocent. The wisdom of my ancestors excited as much wonder in their minds + as their custom did in mine. + </p> + <p> + The person whom Nyakoba appointed to be our guide, having informed us of + the decision, came and bargained that his services should be rewarded with + a hoe. I had no objection to give it, and showed him the article; he was + delighted with it, and went off to show it to his wife. He soon afterward + returned, and said that, though he was perfectly willing to go, his wife + would not let him. I said, "Then bring back the hoe;" but he replied, "I + want it." "Well, go with us, and you shall have it." "But my wife won't + let me." I remarked to my men, "Did you ever hear such a fool?" They + answered, "Oh, that is the custom of these parts; the wives are the + masters." And Sekwebu informed me that he had gone to this man's house, + and heard him saying to his wife, "Do you think that I would ever leave + you?" then, turning to Sekwebu, he asked, "Do you think I would leave this + pretty woman? Is she not pretty?" Sekwebu had been making inquiries among + the people, and had found that the women indeed possessed a great deal of + influence. We questioned the guide whom we finally got from Nyakoba, an + intelligent young man, who had much of the Arab features, and found the + statements confirmed. When a young man takes a liking for a girl of + another village, and the parents have no objection to the match, he is + obliged to come and live at their village. He has to perform certain + services for the mother-in-law, such as keeping her well supplied with + firewood; and when he comes into her presence he is obliged to sit with + his knees in a bent position, as putting out his feet toward the old lady + would give her great offense. If he becomes tired of living in this state + of vassalage, and wishes to return to his own family, he is obliged to + leave all his children behind—they belong to the wife. This is only + a more stringent enforcement of the law from which emanates the practice + which prevails so very extensively in Africa, known to Europeans as + "buying wives". Such virtually it is, but it does not appear quite in that + light to the actors. So many head of cattle or goats are given to the + parents of the girl "to give her up", as it is termed, i.e., to forego all + claim on her offspring, and allow an entire transference of her and her + seed into another family. If nothing is given, the family from which she + has come can claim the children as part of itself: the payment is made to + sever this bond. In the case supposed, the young man has not been able to + advance any thing for that purpose; and, from the temptations placed here + before my men, I have no doubt that some prefer to have their daughters + married in that way, as it leads to the increase of their own village. My + men excited the admiration of the Bambiri, who took them for a superior + breed on account of their bravery in elephant-hunting, and wished to get + them as sons-in-law on the conditions named, but none yielded to the + temptation. + </p> + <p> + We were informed that there is a child belonging to a half-caste + Portuguese in one of these tribes, and the father had tried in vain to get + him from the mother's parents. We saw several things to confirm the + impression of the higher position which women hold here; and, being + anxious to discover if I were not mistaken, when we came among the + Portuguese I inquired of them, and was told that they had ascertained the + same thing; and that, if they wished a man to perform any service for + them, he would reply, "Well, I shall go and ask my wife." If she + consented, he would go, and perform his duty faithfully; but no amount of + coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she refused. The + Portuguese praised the appearance of the Banyai, and they certainly are a + fine race. + </p> + <p> + We got on better with Nyakoba than we expected. He has been so much + affected by the sesenda that he is quite decrepit, and requires to be fed. + I at once showed his messenger that we had nothing whatever to give. + Nyakoba was offended with him for not believing me, and he immediately + sent a basket of maize and another of corn, saying that he believed my + statement, and would send men with me to Tete who would not lead me to any + other village. + </p> + <p> + The birds here sing very sweetly, and I thought I heard the canary, as in + Londa. We had a heavy shower of rain, and I observed that the thermometer + sank 14 Deg. in one hour afterward. From the beginning of February we + experienced a sensible diminution of temperature. In January the lowest + was 75 Deg., and that at sunrise; the average at the same hour (sunrise) + being 79 Deg.; at 3 P.M., 90 Deg.; and at sunset, 82 Deg. In February it + fell as low as 70 Deg. in the course of the night, and the average height + was 88 Deg. Only once did it rise to 94 Deg., and a thunder-storm followed + this; yet the sensation of heat was greater now than it had been at much + higher temperatures on more elevated lands. + </p> + <p> + We passed several villages by going roundabout ways through the forest. We + saw the remains of a lion that had been killed by a buffalo, and the horns + of a putokwane (black antelope), the finest I had ever seen, which had met + its death by a lion. The drums, beating all night in one village near + which we slept, showed that some person in it had finished his course. On + the occasion of the death of a chief, a trader is liable to be robbed, for + the people consider themselves not amenable to law until a new one is + elected. We continued a very winding course, in order to avoid the chief + Katolosa, who is said to levy large sums upon those who fall into his + hands. One of our guides was a fine, tall young man, the very image of Ben + Habib the Arab. They were carrying dried buffalo's meat to the market at + Tete as a private speculation. + </p> + <p> + A great many of the Banyai are of a light coffee-and-milk color, and, + indeed, this color is considered handsome throughout the whole country, a + fair complexion being as much a test of beauty with them as with us. As + they draw out their hair into small cords a foot in length, and entwine + the inner bark of a certain tree round each separate cord, and dye this + substance of a reddish color, many of them put me in mind of the ancient + Egyptians. The great mass of dressed hair which they possess reaches to + the shoulders, but when they intend to travel they draw it up to a bunch, + and tie it on the top of the head. They are cleanly in their habits. + </p> + <p> + As we did not come near human habitations, and could only take short + stages on account of the illness of one of my men, I had an opportunity of + observing the expedients my party resorted to in order to supply their + wants. Large white edible mushrooms are found on the ant-hills, and are + very good. The mokuri, a tuber which abounds in the Mopane country, they + discovered by percussing the ground with stones; and another tuber, about + the size of a turnip, called "bonga", is found in the same situations. It + does not determine to the joints like the mokuri, and in winter has a + sensible amount of salt in it. A fruit called "ndongo" by the Makololo, + "dongolo" by the Bambiri, resembles in appearance a small plum, which + becomes black when ripe, and is good food, as the seeds are small. Many + trees are known by tradition, and one receives curious bits of information + in asking about different fruits that are met with. A tree named + "shekabakadzi" is superior to all others for making fire by friction. As + its name implies, women may even readily make fire by it when benighted. + </p> + <p> + The country here is covered over with well-rounded shingle and gravel of + granite, gneiss with much talc in it, mica schist, and other rocks which + we saw 'in situ' between the Kafue and Loangwa. There are great mounds of + soft red sand slightly coherent, which crumble in the hand with ease. The + gravel and the sand drain away the water so effectually that the trees are + exposed to the heat during a portion of the year without any moisture; + hence they are not large, like those on the Zambesi, and are often + scrubby. The rivers are all of the sandy kind, and we pass over large + patches between this and Tete in which, in the dry season, no water is to + be found. Close on our south, the hills of Lokole rise to a considerable + height, and beyond them flows the Mazoe with its golden sands. The great + numbers of pot-holes on the sides of sandstone ridges, when viewed in + connection with the large banks of rolled shingle and washed sand which + are met with on this side of the eastern ridge, may indicate that the sea + in former times rolled its waves along its flanks. Many of the hills + between the Kafue and Loangwa have their sides of the form seen in mud + banks left by the tide. The pot-holes appear most abundant on low gray + sandstone ridges here; and as the shingle is composed of the same rocks as + the hills west of Zumbo, it looks as if a current had dashed along from + the southeast in the line in which the pot-holes now appear; and if the + current was deflected by those hills toward the Maravi country, north of + Tete, it may have hollowed the rounded, water-worn caverns in which these + people store their corn, and also hide themselves from their enemies. I + could detect no terraces on the land, but, if I am right in my + supposition, the form of this part of the continent must once have + resembled the curves or indentations seen on the southern extremity of the + American continent. In the indentation to the S.E., S., S.W., and W. of + this, lie the principal gold-washings; and the line of the current, + supposing it to have struck against the hills of Mburuma, shows the + washings in the N. and N.E. of Tete. + </p> + <p> + We were tolerably successful in avoiding the villages, and slept one night + on the flanks of the hill Zimika, where a great number of deep pot-holes + afforded an abundant supply of good rain-water. Here, for the first time, + we saw hills with bare, smooth, rocky tops, and we crossed over broad + dikes of gneiss and syenitic porphyry: the directions in which they lay + were N. and S. As we were now near to Tete, we were congratulating + ourselves on having avoided those who would only have plagued us; but next + morning some men saw us, and ran off to inform the neighboring villages of + our passing. A party immediately pursued us, and, as they knew we were + within call of Katolosa (Monomotapa), they threatened to send information + to that chief of our offense, in passing through the country without + leave. We were obliged to give them two small tusks; for, had they told + Katolosa of our supposed offense, we should, in all probability, have lost + the whole. We then went through a very rough, stony country without any + path. Being pretty well tired out in the evening of the 2d of March, I + remained at about eight miles distance from Tete, Tette, or Nyungwe. My + men asked me to go on; I felt too fatigued to proceed, but sent forward to + the commandant the letters of recommendation with which I had been favored + in Angola by the bishop and others, and lay down to rest. Our food having + been exhausted, my men had been subsisting for some time on roots and + honey. About two o'clock in the morning of the 3d we were aroused by two + officers and a company of soldiers, who had been sent with the materials + for a civilized breakfast and a "masheela" to bring me to Tete. + (Commandant's house: lat. 16d 9' 3" S., long. 33d 28' E.) My companions + thought that we were captured by the armed men, and called me in alarm. + When I understood the errand on which they had come, and had partaken of a + good breakfast, though I had just before been too tired to sleep, all my + fatigue vanished. It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever partook of, + and I walked the last eight miles without the least feeling of weariness, + although the path was so rough that one of the officers remarked to me, + "This is enough to tear a man's life out of him." The pleasure experienced + in partaking of that breakfast was only equaled by the enjoyment of Mr. + Gabriel's bed on my arrival at Loanda. It was also enhanced by the news + that Sebastopol had fallen and the war was finished. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Note.—Having neglected, in referring to the footprints of the + rhinoceros, + to mention what may be interesting to naturalists, I add it here + in a note; + that wherever the footprints are seen, there are also marks of the + animal + having plowed up the ground and bushes with his horn. This has + been supposed + to indicate that he is subject to "fits of ungovernable rage"; + but, when seen, he appears rather to be rejoicing in his strength. + He acts as a bull sometimes does when he gores the earth with his + horns. + The rhinoceros, in addition to this, stands on a clump of bushes, + bends his back down, and scrapes the ground with his feet, + throwing it out backward, as if to stretch and clean his toes, + in the same way that a dog may be seen to do on a little grass: + this is certainly not rage. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 31. + </h2> + <p> + Kind Reception from the Commandant—His Generosity to my Men—The + Village of Tete—The Population—Distilled Spirits—The + Fort—Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power—Former Trade—Slaves + employed in Gold-washing—Slave-trade drained the Country of Laborers—The + Rebel Nyaude's Stockade—He burns Tete—Kisaka's Revolt and + Ravages—Extensive Field of Sugar-cane—The Commandant's good + Reputation among the Natives—Providential Guidance—Seams of + Coal—A hot Spring—Picturesque Country—Water-carriage to + the Coal-fields— Workmen's Wages—Exports—Price of + Provisions—Visit Gold-washings— The Process of obtaining the + precious Metal—Coal within a Gold-field— Present from Major + Sicard—Natives raise Wheat, etc.—Liberality of the Commandant—Geographical + Information from Senhor Candido—Earthquakes—Native Ideas of a + Supreme Being—Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of Souls—Fondness + for Display at Funerals—Trade Restrictions—Former Jesuit + Establishment—State of Religion and Education at Tete—Inundation + of the Zambesi—Cotton cultivated—The fibrous Plants Conge and + Buaze—Detained by Fever—The Kumbanzo Bark—Native + Medicines—Iron, its Quality—Hear of Famine at Kilimane—Death + of a Portuguese Lady—The Funeral—Disinterested Kindness of the + Portuguese. + </p> + <p> + I was most kindly received by the commandant Tito Augusto d'Araujo Sicard, + who did every thing in his power to restore me from my emaciated + condition; and, as this was still the unhealthy period at Kilimane, he + advised me to remain with him until the following month. He also + generously presented my men with abundant provisions of millet; and, by + giving them lodgings in a house of his own until they could erect their + own huts, he preserved them from the bite of the tampans, here named + Carapatos.* We had heard frightful accounts of this insect while among the + Banyai, and Major Sicard assured me that to strangers its bite is more + especially dangerous, as it sometimes causes fatal fever. It may please + our homoeopathic friends to hear that, in curing the bite of the tampan, + the natives administer one of the insects bruised in the medicine + employed. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Another insect, resembling a maggot, burrows into the feet + of the natives and sucks their blood. Mr. Westwood says, "The + tampan is a large species of mite, closely allied to the + poisonous bug (as it is called) of Persia, 'Argos reflexus', + respecting which such marvelous accounts have been recorded, + and which the statement respecting the carapato or tampan + would partially confirm." Mr. W. also thinks that the poison- + yielding larva called N'gwa is a "species of chrysomelidae. + The larvae of the British species of that family exude a fetid + yellow thickish fluid when alarmed, but he has not heard that + any of them are at all poisonous." +</pre> + <p> + The village of Tete is built on a long slope down to the river, the fort + being close to the water. The rock beneath is gray sandstone, and has the + appearance of being crushed away from the river: the strata have thus a + crumpled form. The hollow between each crease is a street, the houses + being built upon the projecting fold. The rocks at the top of the slope + are much higher than the fort, and of course completely command it. There + is then a large valley, and beyond that an oblong hill called Karueira. + The whole of the adjacent country is rocky and broken, but every available + spot is under cultivation. The stone houses in Tete are cemented with mud + instead of lime, and thatched with reeds and grass. The rains, having + washed out the mud between the stones, give all the houses a rough, untidy + appearance. No lime was known to be found nearer than Mozambique; some + used in making seats in the verandas had actually been brought all that + distance. The Portuguese evidently knew nothing of the pink and white + marbles which I found at the Mbai, and another rivulet, named the Unguesi, + near it, and of which I brought home specimens, nor yet of the dolomite + which lies so near to Zumbo: they might have burned the marble into lime + without going so far as Mozambique. There are about thirty European + houses; the rest are native, and of wattle and daub. A wall about ten feet + high is intended to inclose the village, but most of the native + inhabitants prefer to live on different spots outside. There are about + twelve hundred huts in all, which with European households would give a + population of about four thousand five hundred souls. Only a small + proportion of these, however, live on the spot; the majority are engaged + in agricultural operations in the adjacent country. Generally there are + not more than two thousand people resident, for, compared with what it + was, Tete is now a ruin. The number of Portuguese is very small; if we + exclude the military, it is under twenty. Lately, however, one hundred and + five soldiers were sent from Portugal to Senna, where in one year + twenty-five were cut off by fever. They were then removed to Tete, and + here they enjoy much better health, though, from the abundance of spirits + distilled from various plants, wild fruits, and grain, in which pernicious + beverage they largely indulge, besides partaking chiefly of unwholesome + native food, better health could scarcely have been expected. The natives + here understand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels, and a + succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep them cool. The + general report of the fever here is that, while at Kilimane the fever is + continuous, at Tete a man recovers in about three days. The mildest + remedies only are used at first, and, if that period be passed, then the + more severe. + </p> + <p> + The fort of Tete has been the salvation of the Portuguese power in this + quarter. It is a small square building, with a thatched apartment for the + residence of the troops; and, though there are but few guns, they are in a + much better state than those of any fort in the interior of Angola. The + cause of the decadence of the Portuguese power in this region is simply + this: In former times, considerable quantities of grain, as wheat, millet, + and maize, were exported; also coffee, sugar, oil, and indigo, besides + gold-dust and ivory. The cultivation of grain was carried on by means of + slaves, of whom the Portuguese possessed a large number. The gold-dust was + procured by washing at various points on the north, south, and west of + Tete. A merchant took all his slaves with him to the washings, carrying as + much calico and other goods as he could muster. On arriving at the + washing-place, he made a present to the chief of the value of about a + pound sterling. The slaves were then divided into parties, each headed by + a confidential servant, who not only had the supervision of his squad + while the washing went on, but bought dust from the inhabitants, and made + a weekly return to his master. When several masters united at one spot, it + was called a "Bara", and they then erected a temporary church, in which a + priest from one of the missions performed mass. Both chiefs and people + were favorable to these visits, because the traders purchased grain for + the sustenance of the slaves with the goods they had brought. They + continued at this labor until the whole of the goods were expended, and by + this means about 130 lbs. of gold were annually produced. Probably more + than this was actually obtained, but, as it was an article easily + secreted, this alone was submitted to the authorities for taxation. At + present the whole amount of gold obtained annually by the Portuguese is + from 8 to 10 lbs. only. When the slave-trade began, it seemed to many of + the merchants a more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves + than to pursue the slow mode of gold-washing and agriculture, and they + continued to export them until they had neither hands to labor nor to + fight for them. It was just the story of the goose and the golden egg. The + coffee and sugar plantations and gold-washings were abandoned, because the + labor had been exported to the Brazils. Many of the Portuguese then + followed their slaves, and the government was obliged to pass a law to + prevent further emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopulated + the Portuguese possessions altogether. A clever man of Asiatic (Goa) and + Portuguese extraction, called Nyaude, now built a stockade at the + confluence of the Luenya and Zambesi; and when the commandant of Tete sent + an officer with his company to summon him to his presence, Nyaude asked + permission of the officer to dress himself, which being granted, he went + into an inner apartment, and the officer ordered his men to pile their + arms. A drum of war began to beat a note which is well known to the + inhabitants. Some of the soldiers took the alarm on hearing this note, but + the officer, disregarding their warning, was, with his whole party, in a + few minutes disarmed and bound hand and foot. The commandant of Tete then + armed the whole body of slaves and marched against the stockade of Nyaude, + but when they came near to it there was the Luenya still to cross. As they + did not effect this speedily, Nyaude dispatched a strong party under his + son Bonga across the river below the stockade, and up the left bank of the + Zambesi until they came near to Tete. They then attacked Tete, which was + wholly undefended save by a few soldiers in the fort, plundered and burned + the whole town except the house of the commandant and a few others, with + the church and fort. The women and children fled into the church; and it + is a remarkable fact that none of the natives of this region will ever + attack a church. Having rendered Tete a ruin, Bonga carried off all the + cattle and plunder to his father. News of this having been brought to the + army before the stockade, a sudden panic dispersed the whole; and as the + fugitives took roundabout ways in their flight, Katolosa, who had hitherto + pretended to be friendly with the Portuguese, sent out his men to capture + as many of them as they could. They killed many for the sake of their + arms. This is the account which both natives and Portuguese give of the + affair. + </p> + <p> + Another half-caste from Macao, called Kisaka or Choutama, on the opposite + bank of the river, likewise rebelled. His father having died, he imagined + that he had been bewitched by the Portuguese, and he therefore plundered + and burned all the plantations of the rich merchants of Tete on the north + bank. As I have before remarked, that bank is the most fertile, and there + the Portuguese had their villas and plantations to which they daily + retired from Tete. When these were destroyed the Tete people were + completely impoverished. An attempt was made to punish this rebel, but it + was also unsuccessful, and he has lately been pardoned by the home + government. One point in the narrative of this expedition is interesting. + They came to a field of sugar-cane so large that 4000 men eating it during + two days did not finish the whole. The Portuguese were thus placed between + two enemies, Nyaude on the right bank and Kisaka on the left, and not only + so, but Nyaude, having placed his stockade on the point of land on the + right banks of both the Luenya and Zambesi, and washed by both these + rivers, could prevent intercourse with the sea. The Luenya rushes into the + Zambesi with great force when the latter is low, and, in coming up the + Zambesi, boats must cross it and the Luenya separately, even going a + little way up that river, so as not to be driven away by its current in + the bed of the Zambesi, and dashed on the rock which stands on the + opposite shore. In coming up to the Luenya for this purpose, all boats and + canoes came close to the stockade to be robbed. Nyaude kept the Portuguese + shut up in their fort at Tete during two years, and they could only get + goods sufficient to buy food by sending to Kilimane by an overland route + along the north bank of the Zambesi. The mother country did not in these + "Caffre wars" pay the bills, so no one either became rich or blamed the + missionaries. + </p> + <p> + The merchants were unable to engage in trade, and commerce, which the + slave-trade had rendered stagnant, was now completely obstructed. The + present commandant of Tete, Major Sicard, having great influence among the + natives, from his good character, put a stop to the war more than once by + his mere presence on the spot. We heard of him among the Banyai as a man + with whom they would never fight, because "he had a good heart." Had I + come down to this coast instead of going to Loanda in 1853, I should have + come among the belligerents while the war was still raging, and should + probably have been cut off. My present approach was just at the conclusion + of the peace; and when the Portuguese authorities here were informed, + through the kind offices of Lord Clarendon and Count de Lavradio, that I + was expected to come this way, they all declared that such was the + existing state of affairs that no European could possibly pass through the + tribes. Some natives at last came down the river to Tete and said, + alluding to the sextant and artificial horizon, that "the Son of God had + come," and that he was "able to take the sun down from the heavens and + place it under his arm!" Major Sicard then felt sure that this was the man + mentioned in Lord Clarendon's dispatch. + </p> + <p> + On mentioning to the commandant that I had discovered a small seam of + coal, he stated that the Portuguese were already aware of nine such seams, + and that five of them were on the opposite bank of the river. As soon as I + had recovered from my fatigue I went to examine them. We proceeded in a + boat to the mouth of the Lofubu or Revubu, which is about two miles below + Tete, and on the opposite or northern bank. Ascending this about four + miles against a strong current of beautifully clear water, we landed near + a small cataract, and walked about two miles through very fertile gardens + to the seam, which we found to be in one of the feeders of the Lofubu, + called Muatize or Motize. The seam is in the perpendicular bank, and dips + into the rivulet, or in a northerly direction. There is, first of all, a + seam 10 inches in diameter, then some shale, below which there is another + seam, 58 inches of which are seen, and, as the bottom touches the water of + the Muatize, it may be more. This part of the seam is about 30 yards long. + There is then a fault. About 100 yards higher up the stream black + vesicular trap is seen, penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the + country, converting it into porcellanite, and partially crystallizing the + coal with which it came into contact. On the right bank of the Lofubu + there is another feeder entering that river near its confluence with the + Muatize, which is called the Morongozi, in which there is another and + still larger bed of coal exposed. Farther up the Lofubu there are other + seams in the rivulets Inyavu and Makare; also several spots in the Maravi + country have the coal cropping out. This has evidently been brought to the + surface by volcanic action at a later period than the coal formation. + </p> + <p> + I also went up the Zambesi, and visited a hot spring called Nyamboronda, + situated in the bed of a small rivulet named Nyaondo, which shows that + igneous action is not yet extinct. We landed at a small rivulet called + Mokorozi, then went a mile or two to the eastward, where we found a hot + fountain at the bottom of a high hill. A little spring bubbles up on one + side of the rivulet Nyaondo, and a great quantity of acrid steam rises up + from the ground adjacent, about 12 feet square of which is so hot that my + companions could not stand on it with their bare feet. There are several + little holes from which the water trickles, but the principal spring is in + a hole a foot in diameter, and about the same in depth. Numbers of bubbles + are constantly rising. The steam feels acrid in the throat, but is not + inflammable, as it did not burn when I held a bunch of lighted grass over + the bubbles. The mercury rises to 158 Deg. when the thermometer is put + into the water in the hole, but after a few seconds it stands steadily at + 160 Deg. Even when flowing over the stones the water is too hot for the + hand. Little fish frequently leap out of the stream in the bed of which + the fountain rises, into the hot water, and get scalded to death. We saw a + frog which had performed the experiment, and was now cooked. The stones + over which the water flows are incrusted with a white salt, and the water + has a saline taste. The ground has been dug out near the fountain by the + natives, in order to extract the salt it contains. It is situated among + rocks of syenitic porphyry in broad dikes, and gneiss tilted on edge, and + having a strike to the N.E. There are many specimens of half-formed + pumice, with greenstone and lava. Some of the sandstone strata are + dislocated by a hornblende rock and by basalt, the sandstone nearest to + the basalt being converted into quartz. + </p> + <p> + The country around, as indeed all the district lying N. and N.W. of Tete, + is hilly, and, the hills being covered with trees, the scenery is very + picturesque. The soil of the valleys is very fruitful and well cultivated. + There would not be much difficulty in working the coal. The Lofubu is + about 60 yards broad; it flows perennially, and at its very lowest period, + which is after September, there is water about 18 inches deep, which could + be navigated in flat-bottomed boats. At the time of my visit it was full, + and the current was very strong. If the small cataract referred to were to + be avoided, the land-carriage beyond would only be about two miles. The + other seams farther up the river may, after passing the cataract, be + approached more easily than that in the Muatize; as the seam, however, + dips down into the stream, no drainage of the mine would be required, for + if water were come to it would run into the stream. I did not visit the + others, but I was informed that there are seams in the independent native + territory as well as in that of the Portuguese. That in the Nake is in the + Banyai country, and, indeed, I have no doubt but that the whole country + between Zumbo and Lupata is a coal-field of at least 2-1/2 Deg. of + latitude in breadth, having many faults, made during the time of the + igneous action. The gray sandstone rock having silicified trees lying on + it is of these dimensions. The plantation in which the seam of coal exists + would be valued among the Portuguese at about 60 dollars or 12 Pounds, but + much more would probably be asked if a wealthy purchaser appeared. They + could not, however, raise the price very much higher, because estates + containing coal might be had from the native owners at a much cheaper + rate. The wages of free laborers, when employed in such work as + gold-washing, agriculture, or digging coal, is 2 yards of unbleached + calico per day. They might be got to work cheaper if engaged by the moon, + or for about 16 yards per month. For masons and carpenters even, the + ordinary rate is 2 yards per day. This is called 1 braca. Tradesmen from + Kilimane demand 4 bracas, or 8 yards, per day. English or American + unbleached calico is the only currency used. The carriage of goods up the + river to Tete adds about 10 per cent. to their cost. The usual conveyance + is by means of very large canoes and launches built at Senna. + </p> + <p> + The amount of merchandise brought up during the five months of peace + previous to my visit was of the value of 30,000 dollars, or about 6000 + Pounds. The annual supply of goods for trade is about 15,000 Pounds, being + calico, thick brass wire, beads, gunpowder, and guns. The quantity of the + latter is, however, small, as the government of Mozambique made that + article contraband after the commencement of the war. Goods, when traded + with in the tribes around the Portuguese, produce a profit of only about + 10 per cent., the articles traded in being ivory and gold-dust. A little + oil and wheat are exported, but nothing else. Trade with the tribes beyond + the exclusive ones is much better. Thirty brass rings cost 10s. at Senna, + 1 Pound at Tete, and 2 Pounds beyond the tribes in the vicinity of Tete; + these are a good price for a penful of gold-dust of the value of 2 Pounds. + The plantations of coffee, which, previous to the commencement of the + slave-trade, yielded one material for exportation, are now deserted, and + it is difficult to find a single tree. The indigo ('Indigofera argentea', + the common wild indigo of Africa) is found growing every where, and large + quantities of the senna-plant* grow in the village of Tete and other + parts, but neither indigo nor senna is collected. Calumba-root, which is + found in abundance in some parts farther down the river, is bought by the + Americans, it is said, to use as a dye-stuff. A kind of sarsaparilla, or a + plant which is believed by the Portuguese to be such, is found from Londa + to Senna, but has never been exported. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * These appear to belong to 'Cassia acutifolia', or true senna + of commerce, found in various parts of Africa and India.—Dr. + Hooker. +</pre> + <p> + The price of provisions is low, but very much higher than previous to the + commencement of the war. Two yards of calico are demanded for six fowls; + this is considered very dear, because, before the war, the same quantity + of calico was worth 24 fowls. Grain is sold in little bags made from the + leaves of the palmyra, like those in which we receive sugar. They are + called panjas, and each panja weighs between 30 and 40 lbs. The panja of + wheat at Tete is worth a dollar, or 5s.; but the native grain may be + obtained among the islands below Lupata at the rate of three panjas for + two yards of calico. The highest articles of consumption are tea and + coffee, the tea being often as high as 15s. a pound. Food is cheaper down + the river below Lupata, and, previous to the war, the islands which stud + the Zambesi were all inhabited, and, the soil being exceedingly fertile, + grain and fowls could be got to any amount. The inhabitants disappeared + before their enemies the Landeens, but are beginning to return since the + peace. They have no cattle, the only place where we found no tsetse being + the district of Tete itself; and the cattle in the possession of the + Portuguese are a mere remnant of what they formerly owned. + </p> + <p> + When visiting the hot fountain, I examined what were formerly the + gold-washings in the rivulet Mokoroze, which is nearly on the 16th + parallel of latitude. The banks are covered with large groves of fine + mango-trees, among which the Portuguese lived while superintending the + washing for the precious metal. The process of washing is very laborious + and tedious. A quantity of sand is put into a wooden bowl with water; a + half rotatory motion is given to the dish, which causes the coarser + particles of sand to collect on one side of the bottom. These are + carefully removed with the hand, and the process of rotation renewed until + the whole of the sand is taken away, and the gold alone remains. It is + found in very minute scales, and, unless I had been assured to the + contrary, I should have taken it to be mica, for, knowing the gold to be + of greater specific gravity than the sand, I imagined that a stream of + water would remove the latter and leave the former; but here the practice + is to remove the whole of the sand by the hand. This process was, no + doubt, a profitable one to the Portuguese, and it is probable that, with + the improved plan by means of mercury, the sands would be lucrative. I had + an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from different parts to the east + and northeast of Tete. There are six well-known washing-places. These are + called Mashinga, Shindundo, Missala, Kapata, Mano, and Jawa. From the + description of the rock I received, I suppose gold is found both in clay + shale and quartz. At the range Mushinga to the N.N.W. the rock is said to + be so soft that the women pound it into powder in wooden mortars previous + to washing. + </p> + <p> + Round toward the westward, the old Portuguese indicate a station which was + near to Zumbo on the River Panyame, and called Dambarari, near which much + gold was found. Farther west lay the now unknown kingdom of Abutua, which + was formerly famous for the metal; and then, coming round toward the east, + we have the gold-washings of the Mashona, or Bazizulu, and, farther east, + that of Manica, where gold is found much more abundantly than in any other + part, and which has been supposed by some to be the Ophir of King Solomon. + I saw the gold from this quarter as large as grains of wheat, that found + in the rivers which run into the coal-field being in very minute scales. + If we place one leg of the compasses at Tete, and extend the other three + and a half degrees, bringing it round from the northeast of Tete by west, + and then to the southeast, we nearly touch or include all the known + gold-producing country. As the gold on this circumference is found in + coarser grains than in the streams running toward the centre, or Tete, I + imagine that the real gold-field lies round about the coal-field; and, if + I am right in the conjecture, then we have coal encircled by a gold-field, + and abundance of wood, water, and provisions—a combination not often + met with in the world. The inhabitants are not unfavorable to washings, + conducted on the principle formerly mentioned. At present they wash only + when in want of a little calico. They know the value of gold perfectly + well, for they bring it for sale in goose-quills, and demand 24 yards of + calico for one penful. When the rivers in the district of Manica and other + gold-washing places have been flooded, they leave a coating of mud on the + banks. The natives observe the spots which dry soonest, and commence + digging there, in firm belief that gold lies beneath. They are said not to + dig deeper than their chins, believing that if they did so the ground + would fall in and kill them. When they find a 'piece' or flake of gold, + they bury it again, from the superstitious idea that this is the seed of + the gold, and, though they know the value of it well, they prefer losing + it rather than the whole future crop. This conduct seemed to me so very + unlikely in men who bring the dust in quills, and even put in a few seeds + of a certain plant as a charm to prevent their losing any of it on the + way, that I doubted the authority of my informant; but I found the report + verified by all the Portuguese who knew the native language and mode of + thinking, and give the statement for what it is worth. If it is really + practiced, the custom may have been introduced by some knowing one who + wished to defraud the chiefs of their due; for we are informed in + Portuguese history that in former times these pieces or flakes of gold + were considered the perquisites of the chiefs. + </p> + <p> + Major Sicard, the commandant, whose kindness to me and my people was + unbounded, presented a rosary made of the gold of the country, the + workmanship of a native of Tete, to my little daughter; also specimens of + the gold-dust of three different places, which, with the coal of Muatize + and Morongoze, are deposited in the Museum of Practical Geology, Jermyn + Street, London. + </p> + <p> + All the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native manner, and + considerable quantities of 'Holcus sorghum', maize, 'Pennisetum + typhoideum', or lotsa of the Balonda, millet, rice, and wheat are raised, + as also several kinds of beans—one of which, called "litloo" by the + Bechuanas, yields under ground, as well as the 'Arachis hypogaea', or + ground-nut; with cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons. The wheat is sown in + low-lying places which are annually flooded by the Zambesi. When the + waters retire, the women drop a few grains in a hole made with a hoe, then + push back the soil with the foot. One weeding alone is required before the + grain comes to maturity. This simple process represents all our subsoil + plowing, liming, manuring, and harrowing, for in four months after + planting a good crop is ready for the sickle, and has been known to yield + a hundred-fold. It flourished still more at Zumbo. No irrigation is + required, because here there are gentle rains, almost like mist, in + winter, which go by the name of "wheat-showers", and are unknown in the + interior, where no winter rain ever falls. The rains at Tete come from the + east, though the prevailing winds come from the S.S.E. The finest portion + of the flour does not make bread nearly so white as the seconds, and here + the boyaloa (pombe), or native beer, is employed to mix with the flour + instead of yeast. It makes excellent bread. At Kilimane, where the + cocoanut palm abounds, the toddy from it, called "sura", is used for the + same purpose, and makes the bread still lighter. + </p> + <p> + As it was necessary to leave most of my men at this place, Major Sicard + gave them a portion of land on which to cultivate their own food, + generously supplying them with corn in the mean time. He also said that my + young men might go and hunt elephants in company with his servants, and + purchase goods with both the ivory and dried meat, in order that they + might have something to take with them on their return to Sekeletu. The + men were delighted with his liberality, and soon sixty or seventy of them + set off to engage in this enterprise. There was no calico to be had at + this time in Tete, but the commandant handsomely furnished my men with + clothing. I was in a state of want myself, and, though I pressed him to + take payment in ivory for both myself and men, he refused all recompense. + I shall ever remember his kindness with deep gratitude. He has written me, + since my arrival in England, that my men had killed four elephants in the + course of two months after my departure. + </p> + <p> + On the day of my arrival I was visited by all the gentlemen of the + village, both white and colored, including the padre. Not one of them had + any idea as to where the source of the Zambesi lay. They sent for the best + traveled natives, but none of them knew the river even as far as Kansala. + The father of one of the rebels who had been fighting against them had + been a great traveler to the southwest, and had even heard of our visit to + Lake Ngami; but he was equally ignorant with all the others that the + Zambesi flowed in the centre of the country. They had, however, more + knowledge of the country to the north of Tete than I had. One man, who had + gone to Cazembe with Major Monteiro, stated that he had seen the Luapura + or Loapula flowing past the town of that chieftain into the Luameji or + Leeambye, but imagined that it found its way, somehow or other, into + Angola. The fact that sometimes rivers were seen to flow like this toward + the centre of the country, led geographers to the supposition that inner + Africa was composed of elevated sandy plains, into which rivers ran and + were lost. One of the gentlemen present, Senhor Candido, had visited a + lake 45 days to the N.N.W. of Tete, which is probably the Lake Maravi of + geographers, as in going thither they pass through the people of that + name. The inhabitants of its southern coast are named Shiva; those on the + north, Mujao; and they call the lake Nyanja or Nyanje, which simply means + a large water, or bed of a large river. A high mountain stands in the + middle of it, called Murombo or Murombola, which is inhabited by people + who have much cattle. He stated that he crossed the Nyanja at a narrow + part, and was 36 hours in the passage. The canoes were punted the whole + way, and, if we take the rate about two miles per hour, it may be sixty or + seventy miles in breadth. The country all round was composed of level + plains covered with grass, and, indeed, in going thither they traveled + seven or eight days without wood, and cooked their food with grass and + stalks of native corn alone. The people sold their cattle at a very cheap + rate. From the southern extremity of the lake two rivers issue forth: one, + named after itself, the Nyanja, which passes into the sea on the east + coast under another name; and the Shire, which flows into the Zambesi a + little below Senna. The Shire is named Shirwa at its point of departure + from the lake, and Senhor Candido was informed, when there, that the lake + was simply an expansion of the River Nyanja, which comes from the north + and encircles the mountain Murombo, the meaning of which is junction or + union, in reference to the water having parted at its northern extremity, + and united again at its southern. The Shire flows through a low, flat, + marshy country, but abounding in population, and they are said to be + brave. The Portuguese are unable to navigate the Shire up to the Lake + Nyanja, because of the great abundance of a water-plant which requires no + soil, and which they name "alfacinya" ('Pistia stratiotes'), from its + resemblance to a lettuce. This completely obstructs the progress of + canoes. In confirmation of this I may state that, when I passed the mouth + of the Shire, great quantities of this same plant were floating from it + into the Zambesi, and many parts of the banks below were covered with the + dead plants. + </p> + <p> + Senhor Candido stated that slight earthquakes have happened several times + in the country of the Maravi, and at no great distance from Tete. The + motion seems to come from the eastward, and never to have lasted more than + a few seconds. They are named in the Maravi tongue "shiwo", and in that of + the people of Tete "shitakoteko", or "shivering". This agrees exactly with + what has taken place in the coast of Mozambique—a few slight shocks + of short duration, and all appearing to come from the east. At Senna, too, + a single shock has been felt several times, which shook the doors and + windows, and made the glasses jingle. Both Tete and Senna have hot springs + in their vicinity, but the shocks seemed to come, not from them, but from + the east, and proceed to the west. They are probably connected with the + active volcanoes in the island of Bourbon. + </p> + <p> + As Senhor Candido holds the office of judge in all the disputes of the + natives, and knows their language perfectly, his statement may be relied + on that all the natives of this region have a clear idea of a Supreme + Being, the maker and governor of all things. He is named "Morimo", + "Molungo", "Reza", "Mpambe", in the different dialects spoken. The Barotse + name him "Nyampi", and the Balonda "Zambi". All promptly acknowledge him + as the ruler over all. They also fully believe in the soul's continued + existence apart from the body, and visit the graves of relatives, making + offerings of food, beer, etc. When undergoing the ordeal, they hold up + their hands to the Ruler of Heaven, as if appealing to him to assert their + innocence. When they escape, or recover from sickness, or are delivered + from any danger, they offer a sacrifice of a fowl or a sheep, pouring out + the blood as a libation to the soul of some departed relative. They + believe in the transmigration of souls, and also that while persons are + still living they may enter into lions and alligators, and then return + again to their own bodies. + </p> + <p> + While still at Tete the son of Monomotapa paid the commandant a visit. He + is named Mozungo, or "White Man", has a narrow tapering head, and probably + none of the ability or energy his father possessed. He was the favorite of + his father, who hoped that he would occupy his place. A strong party, + however, in the tribe placed Katalosa in the chieftainship, and the son + became, as they say, a child of this man. The Portuguese have repeatedly + received offers of territory if they would only attend the interment of + the departed chief with troops, fire off many rounds of cartridges over + the grave, and then give eclat to the installment of the new chief. Their + presence would probably influence the election, for many would vote on the + side of power, and a candidate might feel it worth while to grant a good + piece of land, if thereby he could secure the chieftainship to himself. + When the Portuguese traders wish to pass into the country beyond Katalosa, + they present him with about thirty-two yards of calico and some other + goods, and he then gives them leave to pass in whatever direction they + choose to go. They must, however, give certain quantities of cloth to a + number of inferior chiefs beside, and they are subject to the game-laws. + They have thus a body of exclusive tribes around them, preventing direct + intercourse between them and the population beyond. It is strange that, + when they had the power, they did not insist on the free navigation of the + Zambesi. I can only account for this in the same way in which I accounted + for a similar state of things in the west. All the traders have been in + the hands of slaves, and have wanted that moral courage which a free man, + with free servants on whom he can depend, usually possesses. If the + English had been here, they would have insisted on the free navigation of + this pathway as an indispensable condition of friendship. The present + system is a serious difficulty in the way of developing the resources of + the country, and might prove fatal to an unarmed expedition. If this + desirable and most fertile field of enterprise is ever to be opened up, + men must proceed on a different plan from that which has been followed, + and I do not apprehend there would be much difficulty in commencing a new + system, if those who undertook it insisted that it is not our custom to + pay for a highway which has not been made by man. The natives themselves + would not deny that the river is free to those who do not trade in slaves. + If, in addition to an open, frank explanation, a small subsidy were given + to the paramount chief, the willing consent of all the subordinates would + soon be secured. + </p> + <p> + On the 1st of April I went to see the site of a former establishment of + the Jesuits, called Micombo, about ten miles S.E. of Tete. Like all their + settlements I have seen, both judgment and taste had been employed in the + selection of the site. A little stream of mineral water had been collected + in a tank and conducted to their house, before which was a little garden + for raising vegetables at times of the year when no rain falls. It is now + buried in a deep shady grove of mango-trees. I was accompanied by Captain + Nunes, whose great-grandfather, also a captain in the time of the Marquis + of Pombal, received sealed orders, to be opened only on a certain day. + When that day arrived, he found the command to go with his company, seize + all the Jesuits of this establishment, and march them as prisoners to the + coast. The riches of the fraternity, which were immense, were taken + possession of by the state. Large quantities of gold had often been sent + to their superiors at Goa, inclosed in images. The Jesuits here do not + seem to have possessed the sympathies of the people as their brethren in + Angola did. They were keen traders in ivory and gold-dust. All praise + their industry. Whatever they did, they did it with all their might, and + probably their successful labors in securing the chief part of the trade + to themselves had excited the envy of the laity. None of the natives here + can read; and though the Jesuits are said to have translated some of the + prayers into the language of the country, I was unable to obtain a copy. + The only religious teachers now in this part of the country are two + gentlemen of color, natives of Goa. The one who officiates at Tete, named + Pedro Antonio d'Araujo, is a graduate in Dogmatic Theology and Moral + Philosophy. There is but a single school in Tete, and it is attended only + by the native Portuguese children, who are taught to read and write. The + black population is totally uncared for. The soldiers are marched every + Sunday to hear mass, and but few others attend church. During the period + of my stay, a kind of theatrical representation of our Savior's passion + and resurrection was performed. The images and other paraphernalia used + were of great value, but the present riches of the Church are nothing to + what it once possessed. The commandant is obliged to lock up all the gold + and silver in the fort for safety, though not from any apprehension of its + being stolen by the people, for they have a dread of sacrilege. + </p> + <p> + The state of religion and education is, I am sorry to say, as low as that + of commerce; but the European Portuguese value education highly, and send + their children to Goa and elsewhere for instruction in the higher + branches. There is not a single bookseller's shop, however, in either + eastern or western Africa. Even Loanda, with its 12,000 or 14,000 souls, + can not boast of one store for the sale of food for the mind. + </p> + <p> + On the 2d the Zambesi suddenly rose several feet in height. Three such + floods are expected annually, but this year there were four. This last was + accompanied by discoloration, and must have been caused by another great + fall of rain east of the ridge. We had observed a flood of discolored + water when we reached the river at the Kafue; it then fell two feet, and + from subsequent rains again rose so high that we were obliged to leave it + when opposite the hill Pinkwe. About the 10th of March the river rose + several feet with comparatively clear water, and it continued to rise + until the 21st, with but very slight discoloration. This gradual rise was + the greatest, and was probably caused by the water of inundation in the + interior. The sudden rise which happened on the 2d, being deeply + discolored, showed again the effect of rains at a comparatively short + distance. The fact of the river rising three or four times annually, and + the one flood of inundation being mixed with the others, may account for + the Portuguese not recognizing the phenomenon of the periodical + inundation, so well known in the central country. + </p> + <p> + The independent natives cultivate a little cotton, but it is not at all + equal, either in quantity or quality, to what we found in Angola. The pile + is short, and it clings to the seed so much that they use an iron roller + to detach it. The soil, however, is equal to the production of any + tropical plant or fruit. The natives have never been encouraged to + cultivate cotton for sale, nor has any new variety been introduced. We saw + no palm-oil-trees, the oil which is occasionally exported being from the + ground-nut. One of the merchants of Tete had a mill of the rudest + construction for grinding this nut, which was driven by donkeys. It was + the only specimen of a machine I could exhibit to my men. A very superior + kind of salad oil is obtained from the seeds of cucumbers, and is much + used in native cookery. + </p> + <p> + An offer, said to have been made by the "Times", having excited attention + even in this distant part, I asked the commandant if he knew of any plant + fit for the production of paper. He procured specimens of the fibrous + tissue of a species of aloe, named Conge, and some also from the root of a + wild date, and, lastly, of a plant named Buaze, the fibres of which, + though useless for the manufacture of paper, are probably a suitable + substitute for flax. I submitted a small quantity of these fibres to + Messrs. Pye, Brothers, of London, who have invented a superior mode for + the preparation of such tissues for the manufacturer. They most politely + undertook the examination, and have given a favorable opinion of the + Buaze, as may be seen in the note below.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * + 80 Lombard Street, 20th March, 1857. + + Dear Sir,—We have the pleasure to return you the specimens of + fibrous plants from the Zambesi River, on which you were + desirous to see the effects of our treatment; we therefore + inclose to you, + + No. 1. Buaze, in the state received from you. + 1 A. Do. as prepared by us. + 1 B. The tow which has come from it in hackling. + No. 2. Conge, as received from you. + 2 A. Do. as prepared by us. + + With regard to both these fibres, we must state that the VERY + MINUTE QUANTITY of each specimen has prevented our subjecting + them to any thing like the full treatment of our process, and + we can therefore only give you an APPROXIMATE idea of their + value. + + The Buaze evidently possesses a very strong and fine fibre, + assimilating to flax in its character, but we believe, when + treated IN QUANTITY by our process, it would show both a + stronger and finer fibre than flax; but being unable to apply + the rolling or pressing processes with any efficiency to so + very small a quantity, the gums are not yet so perfectly + extracted as they would be, nor the fibre opened out to so + fine a quality as it would then exhibit. + + This is even yet more the case with the Conge, which, being + naturally a harsh fibre, full of gums, wants exactly that + powerful treatment which our process is calculated to give it, + but which can not be applied to such miniature specimens. We + do not therefore consider this as more than half treated, its + fibre consequently remaining yet harsh, and coarse, and stiff, + as compared with what it would be if treated IN QUANTITY. + + Judging that it would be satisfactory to you to be in + possession of the best practical opinion to be obtained on + such a subject, we took the liberty of forwarding your little + specimens to Messrs. Marshall, of Leeds, who have kindly + favored us with the following observations on them: + + "We have examined the samples you sent us yesterday, and think + the Conge or aloe fibre would be of no use to us, but the + Buaze fibre appears to resemble flax, and as prepared by you + will be equal to flax worth 50 Pounds or 60 Pounds per ton, + but we could hardly speak positively to the value unless we + had 1 cwt. or 2 cwt. to try on our machinery. However, we + think the result is promising, and we hope further inquiry + will be made as to the probable supply of the material." + + We are, dear sir, your very obedient servants, Pye, Brothers. + + The Rev. Dr. Livingstone. +</pre> + <p> + A representation of the plant is given in the annexed woodcut,* as a help + to its identification. I was unable to procure either the flowers or + fruit; but, as it is not recognized at sight by that accomplished botanist + and eminent traveler, Dr. J. D. Hooker, it may safely be concluded that it + is quite unknown to botanists. It is stated by the Portuguese to grow in + large quantities in the Maravi country north of the Zambesi, but it is not + cultivated, and the only known use it has been put to is in making threads + on which the natives string their beads. Elsewhere the split tendons of + animals are employed for this purpose. This seems to be of equal strength, + for a firm thread of it feels like catgut in the hand, and would rather + cut the fingers than break. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Unfortunately, this woodcut can not be represented in this + ASCII text, but buaze, or bwazi, is 'Securidaca + longipedunculata'.—A. L., 1997. +</pre> + <p> + Having waited a month for the commencement of the healthy season at + Kilimane, I would have started at the beginning of April, but tarried a + few days in order that the moon might make her appearance, and enable me + to take lunar observations on my way down the river. A sudden change of + temperature happening on the 4th, simultaneously with the appearance of + the new moon, the commandant and myself, with nearly every person in the + house, were laid up with a severe attack of fever. I soon recovered by the + use of my wonted remedies, but Major Sicard and his little boy were + confined much longer. There was a general fall of 4 Deg. of temperature + from the middle of March, 84 Deg. at 9 A.M., and 87 Deg. at 9 P.M.; the + greatest heat being 90 Deg. at midday, and the lowest 81 Deg. at sunrise. + It afforded me pleasure to attend the invalids in their sickness, though I + was unable to show a tithe of the gratitude I felt for the commandant's + increasing kindness. My quinine and other remedies were nearly all + expended, and no fresh supply was to be found here, there being no doctors + at Tete, and only one apothecary with the troops, whose stock of medicine + was also small. The Portuguese, however, informed me that they had the + cinchona bark growing in their country—that there was a little of it + to be found at Tete—whole forests of it at Senna and near the delta + of Kilimane. It seems quite a providential arrangement that the remedy for + fever should be found in the greatest abundance where it is most needed. + On seeing the leaves, I stated that it was not the 'Cinchona longifolia' + from which it is supposed the quinine of commerce is extracted, but the + name and properties of this bark made me imagine that it was a + cinchonaceous tree. I could not get the flower, but when I went to Senna I + tried to bring away a few small living trees with earth in a box. They, + however, all died when we came to Kilimane. Failing in this mode of + testing the point, I submitted a few leaves and seed-vessels to my friend, + Dr. Hooker, who kindly informs me that they belong "apparently to an + apocyneous plant, very nearly allied to the Malouetia Heudlotii (of + Decaisne), a native of Senegambia." Dr. H. adds, "Various plants of this + natural order are reputed powerful febrifuges, and some of them are said + to equal the cinchona in their effects." It is called in the native tongue + Kumbanzo. + </p> + <p> + The flowers are reported to be white. The pods are in pairs, a foot or + fifteen inches in length, and contain a groove on their inner sides. The + thick soft bark of the root is the part used by the natives; the + Portuguese use that of the tree itself. I immediately began to use a + decoction of the bark of the root, and my men found it so efficacious that + they collected small quantities of it for themselves, and kept it in + little bags for future use. Some of them said that they knew it in their + own country, but I never happened to observe it. The decoction is given + after the first paroxysm of the complaint is over. The Portuguese believe + it to have the same effects as the quinine, and it may prove a substitute + for that invaluable medicine. + </p> + <p> + There are numbers of other medicines in use among the natives, but I have + always been obliged to regret want of time to ascertain which were useful + and which of no value. We find a medicine in use by a tribe in one part of + the country, and the same plant employed by a tribe a thousand miles + distant. This surely must arise from some inherent virtue in the plant. + The Boers under Potgeiter visited Delgoa Bay for the first time about ten + years ago, in order to secure a port on the east coast for their republic. + They had come from a part of the interior where the disease called croup + occasionally prevails. There was no appearance of the disease among them + at the period of their visit, but the Portuguese inhabitants of that bay + found that they had left it among them, and several adults were cut off by + a form of the complaint called 'Laryngismus stridulus', the disease of + which the great Washington died. Similar cases have occurred in the South + Sea Islands. Ships have left diseases from which no one on board was + suffering at the time of their visit. Many of the inhabitants here were + cut down, usually in three days from their first attack, until a native + doctor adopted the plan of scratching the root of the tongue freely with a + certain root, and giving a piece of it to be chewed. The cure may have + been effected by the scarification only, but the Portuguese have the + strongest faith in the virtues of the root, and always keep some of it + within reach. + </p> + <p> + There are also other plants which the natives use in the treatment of + fever, and some of them produce 'diaphoresis' in a short space of time. It + is certain that we have got the knowledge of the most potent febrifuge in + our pharmacopoeia from the natives of another country. We have no cure for + cholera and some other diseases. It might be worth the investigation of + those who visit Africa to try and find other remedies in a somewhat + similar way to that in which we found the quinine.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I add the native names of a few of their remedies in order + to assist the inquirer: Mupanda panda: this is used in fever + for producing perspiration; the leaves are named Chirussa; the + roots dye red, and are very astringent. Goho or Go-o: this is + the ordeal medicine; it is both purgative and emetic. Mutuva + or Mutumbue: this plant contains so much oil that it serves + as lights in Londa; it is an emollient drink for the cure of + coughs, and the pounded leaves answer as soap to wash the + head. Nyamucu ucu has a curious softening effect on old dry + grain. Mussakasi is believed to remove the effects of the Go- + o. Mudama is a stringent vermifuge. Mapubuza dyes a red + color. Musikizi yields an oil. Shinkondo: a virulent poison; + the Maravi use it in their ordeal, and it is very fatal. + Kanunka utare is said to expel serpents and rats by its + pungent smell, which is not at all disagreeable to man; this + is probably a kind of 'Zanthoxylon', perhaps the Z. + melancantha of Western Africa, as it is used to expel rats and + serpents there. Mussonzoa dyes cloth black. Mussio: the + beans of this also dye black. Kangome, with flowers and fruit + like Mocha coffee; the leaves are much like those of the sloe, + and the seeds are used as coffee or eaten as beans. Kanembe- + embe: the pounded leaves used as an extemporaneous glue for + mending broken vessels. Katunguru is used for killing fish. + Mutavea Nyerere: an active caustic. Mudiacoro: also an + external caustic, and used internally. Kapande: another + ordeal plant, but used to produce 'diaphoresis'. Karumgasura: + also diaphoretic. Munyazi yields an oil, and is one of the + ingredients for curing the wounds of poisoned arrows. Uombue: + a large root employed in killing fish. Kakumate: used in + intermittents. Musheteko: applied to ulcers, and the infusion + also internally in amenorrhoea. Inyakanyanya: this is seen in + small, dark-colored, crooked roots of pleasant aromatic smell + and slightly bitter taste, and is highly extolled in the + treatment of fever; it is found in Manica. Eskinencia: used + in croup and sore-throat. Itaca or Itaka: for diaphoresis in + fever; this root is brought as an article of barter by the + Arabs to Kilimane; the natives purchase it eagerly. + Mukundukundu: a decoction used as a febrifuge in the same way + as quinine; it grows plentifully at Shupanga, and the wood is + used as masts for launches. I may here add the recipe of + Brother Pedro of Zumbo for the cure of poisoned wounds, in + order to show the similarity of practice among the natives of + the Zambesi, from whom, in all probability, he acquired his + knowledge, and the Bushmen of the Kalahari. It consists of + equal parts of the roots of the Calumba, Musheteko, Abutua, + Batatinya, Paregekanto, Itaka, or Kapande, put into a bottle + and covered with common castor-oil. As I have before + observed, I believe the oily ingredient is the effectual one, + and ought to be tried by any one who has the misfortune to get + wounded by a Bushman's or Banyai arrow. +</pre> + <p> + The only other metal, besides gold, we have in abundance in this region, + is iron, and that is of excellent quality. In some places it is obtained + from what is called the specular iron ore, and also from black oxide. The + latter has been well roasted in the operations of nature, and contains a + large proportion of the metal. It occurs generally in tears or rounded + lumps, and is but slightly magnetic. When found in the beds of rivers, the + natives know of its existence by the quantity of oxide on the surface, and + they find no difficulty in digging it with pointed sticks. They consider + English iron as "rotten"; and I have seen, when a javelin of their own + iron lighted on the cranium of a hippopotamus, it curled up like the + proboscis of a butterfly, and the owner would prepare it for future use by + straightening it COLD with two stones. I brought home some of the hoes + which Sekeletu gave me to purchase a canoe, also some others obtained in + Kilimane, and they have been found of such good quality that a friend of + mine in Birmingham has made an Enfield rifle of them.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The following remarks are by a practical blacksmith, one of + the most experienced men in the gun-trade. In this trade + various qualities of iron are used, and close attention is + required to secure for each purpose the quality of iron + peculiarly adapted to it: + + The iron in the two spades strongly resembles Swedish or + Russian; it is highly carbonized. + + The same qualities are found in both spades. + + When chilled in water it has all the properties of steel: see + the piece marked I, chilled at one end, and left soft at the + other. + + When worked hot, it is very malleable: but cold, it breaks + quite short and brittle. + + The great irregularity found in the working of the iron + affords evidence that it has been prepared by inexperienced + hands. + + This is shown in the bending of the small spade; the thick + portion retains its crystallized nature, while the thin part + has been changed by the hammering it has undergone. + + The large spade shows a very brittle fracture. + + The iron is too brittle for gun-work; it would be liable to + break. + + This iron, if REPEATEDLY heated and hammered, would become + decarbonized, and would then possess the qualities found in + the spear-head, which, after being curled up by being struck + against a hard substance, was restored, by hammering, to its + original form without injury. + + The piece of iron marked II is a piece of gun-iron of fibrous + quality, such as will bend without breaking. + + The piece marked III is of crystalline quality; it has been + submitted to a process which has changed it to IIII; III and + IIII are cut from the same bar. The spade-iron has been + submitted to the same process, but no corresponding effect can + be produced. +</pre> + <p> + The iron ore exists in great abundance, but I did not find any limestone + in its immediate vicinity. So far as I could learn, there is neither + copper nor silver. Malachite is worked by the people of Cazembe, but, as I + did not see it, nor any other metal, I can say nothing about it. A few + precious stones are met with, and some parts are quite covered with + agates. The mineralogy of the district, however, has not been explored by + any one competent to the task. + </p> + <p> + When my friend the commandant was fairly recovered, and I myself felt + strong again, I prepared to descend the Zambesi. A number of my men were + out elephant-hunting, and others had established a brisk trade in + firewood, as their countrymen did at Loanda. I chose sixteen of those who + could manage canoes to convey me down the river. Many more would have + come, but we were informed that there had been a failure of the crops at + Kilimane from the rains not coming at the proper time, and thousands had + died of hunger. I did not hear of a single effort having been made to + relieve the famishing by sending them food down the river. Those who + perished were mostly slaves, and others seemed to think that their masters + ought to pay for their relief. The sufferers were chiefly among those + natives who inhabit the delta, and who are subject to the Portuguese. They + are in a state of slavery, but are kept on farms and mildly treated. Many + yield a certain rental of grain only to their owners, and are otherwise + free. Eight thousand are said to have perished. Major Sicard lent me a + boat which had been built on the river, and sent also Lieutenant Miranda + to conduct me to the coast. + </p> + <p> + A Portuguese lady who had come with her brother from Lisbon, having been + suffering for some days from a severe attack of fever, died about three + o'clock in the morning of the 20th of April. The heat of the body having + continued unabated till six o'clock, I was called in, and found her bosom + quite as warm as I ever did in a living case of fever. This continued for + three hours more. As I had never seen a case in which fever-heat continued + so long after death, I delayed the funeral until unmistakable symptoms of + dissolution occurred. She was a widow, only twenty-two years of age, and + had been ten years in Africa. I attended the funeral in the evening, and + was struck by the custom of the country. A number of slaves preceded us, + and fired off many rounds of gunpowder in front of the body. When a person + of much popularity is buried, all the surrounding chiefs send deputations + to fire over the grave. On one occasion at Tete, more than thirty barrels + of gunpowder were expended. Early in the morning of the 21st the slaves of + the deceased lady's brother went round the village making a lamentation, + and drums were beaten all day, as they are at such times among the + heathen. + </p> + <p> + The commandant provided for the journey most abundantly, and gave orders + to Lieutenant Miranda that I should not be allowed to pay for any thing + all the way to the coast, and sent messages to his friends Senhors Ferrao, + Isidore, Asevedo, and Nunes, to treat me as they would himself. From every + one of these gentlemen I am happy to acknowledge that I received most + disinterested kindness, and I ought to speak well forever of Portuguese + hospitality. I have noted each little act of civility received, because + somehow or other we have come to hold the Portuguese character in rather a + low estimation. This may have arisen partly from the pertinacity with + which some of them have pursued the slave-trade, and partly from the + contrast which they now offer to their illustrious ancestors—the + foremost navigators of the world. If my specification of their kindnesses + will tend to engender a more respectful feeling to the nation, I shall + consider myself well rewarded. We had three large canoes in the company + which had lately come up with goods from Senna. They are made very large + and strong, much larger than any we ever saw in the interior, and might + strike with great force against a rock and not be broken. The men sit at + the stern when paddling, and there is usually a little shed made over a + part of the canoe to shade the passengers from the sun. The boat in which + I went was furnished with such a covering, so I sat quite comfortably. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0032" id="link2HCH0032"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 32. + </h2> + <p> + Leave Tete and proceed down the River—Pass the Stockade of Bonga— + Gorge of Lupata—"Spine of the World"—Width of River—Islands—War + Drum at Shiramba—Canoe Navigation—Reach Senna—Its + ruinous State—Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants—Cowardice + of native Militia—State of the Revenue—No direct Trade with + Portugal—Attempts to revive the Trade of Eastern Africa—Country + round Senna—Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station—Manica, the best Gold + Region in Eastern Africa—Boat-building at Senna—Our Departure—Capture + of a Rebel Stockade—Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the Confluence of + the Shire—Landeen Opinion of the Whites—Mazaro, the point + reached by Captain Parker—His Opinion respecting the Navigation of + the River from this to the Ocean—Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the + same subject—Fever, its Effects—Kindly received into the House + of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane—Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. + Walsh—Joy imbittered—Deep Obligations to the Earl of + Clarendon, etc.—On developing Resources of the Interior—Desirableness + of Missionary Societies selecting healthy Stations—Arrangements on + leaving my Men— Retrospect—Probable Influence of the + Discoveries on Slavery—Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free Labor—Commercial + Stations—Development of the Resources of Africa a Work of Time—Site + of Kilimane— Unhealthiness—Death of a shipwrecked Crew from + Fever—The Captain saved by Quinine—Arrival of H. M. Brig + "Frolic"—Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England—Rough + Passage in the Boats to the Ship—Sekwebu's Alarm—Sail for + Mauritius—Sekwebu on board; he becomes insane; drowns himself—Kindness + of Major-General C. M. Hay—Escape Shipwreck—Reach Home. + </p> + <p> + We left Tete at noon on the 22d, and in the afternoon arrived at the + garden of Senhor A. Manoel de Gomez, son-in-law and nephew of Bonga. The + Commandant of Tete had sent a letter to the rebel Bonga, stating that he + ought to treat me kindly, and he had deputed his son-in-law to be my host. + Bonga is not at all equal to his father Nyaude, who was a man of great + ability. He is also in bad odor with the Portuguese, because he receives + all runaway slaves and criminals. He does not trust the Portuguese, and is + reported to be excessively superstitious. I found his son-in-law, Manoel, + extremely friendly, and able to converse in a very intelligent manner. He + was in his garden when we arrived, but soon dressed himself respectably, + and gave us a good tea and dinner. After a breakfast of tea, roasted eggs, + and biscuits next morning, he presented six fowls and three goats as + provisions for the journey. When we parted from him we passed the stockade + of Bonga at the confluence of the Luenya, but did not go near it, as he is + said to be very suspicious. The Portuguese advised me not to take any + observation, as the instruments might awaken fears in Bonga's mind, but + Manoel said I might do so if I wished; his garden, however, being above + the confluence, could not avail as a geographical point. There are some + good houses in the stockade. The trees of which it is composed seemed to + me to be living, and could not be burned. It was strange to see a stockade + menacing the whole commerce of the river in a situation where the guns of + a vessel would have full play on it, but it is a formidable affair for + those who have only muskets. On one occasion, when Nyaude was attacked by + Kisaka, they fought for weeks; and though Nyaude was reduced to cutting up + his copper anklets for balls, his enemies were not able to enter the + stockade. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th we sailed only about three hours, as we had done the day + before; but having come to a small island at the western entrance of the + gorge of Lupata, where Dr. Lacerda is said to have taken an astronomical + observation, and called it the island of Mozambique, because it was + believed to be in the same latitude, or 15d 1', I wished to verify his + position, and remained over night: my informants must have been mistaken, + for I found the island of Mozambique here to be lat. 16d 34' 46" S. + </p> + <p> + Respecting this range, to which the gorge has given a name, some + Portuguese writers have stated it to be so high that snow lies on it + during the whole year, and that it is composed of marble. It is not so + high in appearance as the Campsie Hills when seen from the Vale of Clyde. + The western side is the most abrupt, and gives the idea of the greatest + height, as it rises up perpendicularly from the water six or seven hundred + feet. As seen from this island, it is certainly no higher than Arthur's + Seat appears from Prince's Street, Edinburgh. The rock is compact + silicious schist of a slightly reddish color, and in thin strata; the + island on which we slept looks as if torn off from the opposite side of + the gorge, for the strata are twisted and torn in every direction. The + eastern side of the range is much more sloping than the western, covered + with trees, and does not give the idea of altitude so much as the western. + It extends a considerable way into the Maganja country in the north, and + then bends round toward the river again, and ends in the lofty mountain + Morumbala, opposite Senna. On the other or southern side it is straighter, + but is said to end in Gorongozo, a mountain west of the same point. The + person who called this Lupata "the spine of the world" evidently did not + mean to say that it was a translation of the word, for it means a defile + or gorge having perpendicular walls. This range does not deserve the name + of either Cordillera or Spine, unless we are willing to believe that the + world has a very small and very crooked "back-bone". + </p> + <p> + We passed through the gorge in two hours, and found it rather tortuous, + and between 200 and 300 yards wide. The river is said to be here always + excessively deep; it seemed to me that a steamer could pass through it at + full speed. At the eastern entrance of Lupata stand two conical hills; + they are composed of porphyry, having large square crystals therein. These + hills are called Moenda en Goma, which means a footprint of a wild beast. + Another conical hill on the opposite bank is named Kasisi (priest), from + having a bald top. We sailed on quickly with the current of the river, and + found that it spread out to more than two miles in breadth; it is, + however, full of islands, which are generally covered with reeds, and + which, previous to the war, were inhabited, and yielded vast quantities of + grain. We usually landed to cook breakfast, and then went on quickly. The + breadth of water between the islands was now quite sufficient for a + sailing vessel to tack, and work her sails in; the prevailing winds would + blow her up the stream; but I regretted that I had not come when the river + was at its lowest rather than at its highest. The testimony, however, of + Captain Parker and Lieutenant Hoskins, hereafter to be noticed, may be + considered conclusive as to the capabilities of this river for commercial + purposes. The Portuguese state that there is high water during five months + of the year, and when it is low there is always a channel of deep water. + But this is very winding; and as the river wears away some of the islands + and forms others, the course of the channel is often altered. I suppose + that an accurate chart of it made in one year would not be very reliable + the next; but I believe, from all that I can learn, that the river could + be navigated in a small flat-bottomed steamer during the whole year as far + as Tete. At this time a steamer of large size could have floated easily. + The river was measured at the latter place by the Portuguese, and found by + them to be 1050 yards broad. The body of water flowing past when I was + there was very great, and the breadth it occupied when among the islands + had a most imposing effect. I could not get a glimpse of either shore. All + the right bank beyond Lupata is low and flat: on the north, the ranges of + hills and dark lines below them are seen, but from the boat it is + impossible to see the shore. I only guess the breadth of the river to be + two miles; it is probably more. Next day we landed at Shiramba for + breakfast, having sailed 8-1/2 hours from Lupata. This was once the + residence of a Portuguese brigadier, who spent large sums of money in + embellishing his house and gardens: these we found in entire ruin, as his + half-caste son had destroyed all, and then rebelled against the + Portuguese, but with less success than either Nyaude or Kisaka, for he had + been seized and sent a prisoner to Mozambique a short time before our + visit. All the southern shore has been ravaged by the Caffres, who are + here named Landeens, and most of the inhabitants who remain acknowledge + the authority of Bonga, and not of the Portuguese. When at breakfast, the + people of Shiramba commenced beating the drum of war. Lieutenant Miranda, + who was well acquainted with the customs of the country, immediately + started to his feet, and got all the soldiers of our party under arms; he + then demanded of the natives why the drum was beaten while we were there. + They gave an evasive reply; and, as they employ this means of collecting + their neighbors when they intend to rob canoes, our watchfulness may have + prevented their proceeding farther. + </p> + <p> + We spent the night of the 26th on the island called Nkuesi, opposite a + remarkable saddle-shaped mountain, and found that we were just on the 17th + parallel of latitude. The sail down the river was very fine; the + temperature becoming low, it was pleasant to the feelings; but the shores + being flat and far from us, the scenery was uninteresting. We breakfasted + on the 27th at Pita, and found some half-caste Portuguese had established + themselves there, after fleeing from the opposite bank to escape Kisaka's + people, who were now ravaging all the Maganja country. On the afternoon of + the 27th we arrived at Senna. (Commandant Isidore's house, 300 yards S.W. + of the mud fort on the banks of the river: lat. 17d 27' 1" S., long. 35d + 10' E.) We found Senna to be twenty-three and a half hours' sail from + Tete. We had the current entirely in our favor, but met various parties in + large canoes toiling laboriously against it. They use long ropes, and pull + the boats from the shore. They usually take about twenty days to ascend + the distance we had descended in about four. The wages paid to boatmen are + considered high. Part of the men who had accompanied me gladly accepted + employment from Lieutenant Miranda to take a load of goods in a canoe from + Senna to Tete. + </p> + <p> + I thought the state of Tete quite lamentable, but that of Senna was ten + times worse. At Tete there is some life; here every thing is in a state of + stagnation and ruin. The fort, built of sun-dried bricks, has the grass + growing over the walls, which have been patched in some places by paling. + The Landeens visit the village periodically, and levy fines upon the + inhabitants, as they consider the Portuguese a conquered tribe, and very + rarely does a native come to trade. Senhor Isidore, the commandant, a man + of considerable energy, had proposed to surround the whole village with + palisades as a protection against the Landeens, and the villagers were to + begin this work the day after I left. It was sad to look at the ruin + manifest in every building, but the half-castes appear to be in league + with the rebels and Landeens; for when any attempt is made by the + Portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend themselves, information is + conveyed at once to the Landeen camp, and, though the commandant prohibits + the payment of tribute to the Landeens, on their approach the half-castes + eagerly ransom themselves. When I was there, a party of Kisaka's people + were ravaging the fine country on the opposite shore. They came down with + the prisoners they had captured, and forthwith the half-castes of Senna + went over to buy slaves. Encouraged by this, Kisaka's people came over + into Senna fully armed and beating their drums, and were received into the + house of a native Portuguese. They had the village at their mercy, yet + could have been driven off by half a dozen policemen. The commandant could + only look on with bitter sorrow. He had soldiers, it is true, but it is + notorious that the native militia of both Senna and Kilimane never think + of standing to fight, but invariably run away, and leave their officers to + be killed. They are brave only among the peaceable inhabitants. One of + them, sent from Kilimane with a packet of letters or expresses, arrived + while I was at Senna. He had been charged to deliver them with all speed, + but Senhor Isidore had in the mean time gone to Kilimane, remained there a + fortnight, and reached Senna again before the courier came. He could not + punish him. We gave him a passage in our boat, but he left us in the way + to visit his wife, and, "on urgent private business," probably gave up the + service altogether, as he did not come to Kilimane all the time I was + there. It is impossible to describe the miserable state of decay into + which the Portuguese possessions here have sunk. The revenues are not + equal to the expenses, and every officer I met told the same tale, that he + had not received one farthing of pay for the last four years. They are all + forced to engage in trade for the support of their families. Senhor + Miranda had been actually engaged against the enemy during these four + years, and had been highly lauded in the commandant's dispatches to the + home government, but when he applied to the Governor of Kilimane for part + of his four years' pay, he offered him twenty dollars only. Miranda + resigned his commission in consequence. The common soldiers sent out from + Portugal received some pay in calico. They all marry native women, and, + the soil being very fertile, the wives find but little difficulty in + supporting their husbands. There is no direct trade with Portugal. A + considerable number of Banians, or natives of India, come annually in + small vessels with cargoes of English and Indian goods from Bombay. It is + not to be wondered at, then, that there have been attempts made of late + years by speculative Portuguese in Lisbon to revive the trade of Eastern + Africa by means of mercantile companies. One was formally proposed, which + was modeled on the plan of our East India Company; and it was actually + imagined that all the forts, harbors, lands, etc., might be delivered over + to a company, which would bind itself to develop the resources of the + country, build schools, make roads, improve harbors, etc., and, after all, + leave the Portuguese the option of resuming possession. + </p> + <p> + Another effort has been made to attract commercial enterprise to this + region by offering any mining company permission to search for the ores + and work them. Such a company, however, would gain but little in the way + of protection or aid from the government of Mozambique, as that can but + barely maintain a hold on its own small possessions; the condition affixed + of importing at the company's own cost a certain number of Portuguese from + the island of Madeira or the Azores, in order to increase the Portuguese + population in Africa, is impolitic. Taxes would also be levied on the + minerals exported. It is noticeable that all the companies which have been + proposed in Portugal have this put prominently in the preamble, "and for + the abolition of the inhuman slave-trade." This shows either that the + statesmen in Portugal are enlightened and philanthropic, or it may be + meant as a trap for English capitalists; I incline to believe the former. + If the Portuguese really wish to develop the resources of the rich country + beyond their possessions, they ought to invite the co-operation of other + nations on equal terms with themselves. Let the pathway into the interior + be free to all; and, instead of wretched forts, with scarcely an acre of + land around them which can be called their own, let real colonies be made. + If, instead of military establishments, we had civil ones, and saw + emigrants going out with their wives, plows, and seeds, rather than + military convicts with bugles and kettle-drums, we might hope for a return + of prosperity to Eastern Africa. + </p> + <p> + The village of Senna stands on the right bank of the Zambesi. There are + many reedy islands in front of it, and there is much bush in the country + adjacent. The soil is fertile, but the village, being in a state of ruin, + and having several pools of stagnant water, is very unhealthy. The bottom + rock is the akose of Brongniart, or granitic grit, and several conical + hills of trap have burst through it. One standing about half a mile west + of the village is called Baramuana, which has another behind it; hence the + name, which means "carry a child on the back". It is 300 or 400 feet high, + and on the top lie two dismounted cannon, which were used to frighten away + the Landeens, who, in one attack upon Senna, killed 150 of the + inhabitants. The prospect from Baramuana is very fine; below, on the + eastward, lies the Zambesi, with the village of Senna; and some twenty or + thirty miles beyond stands the lofty mountain Morumbala, probably 3000 or + 4000 feet high. It is of an oblong shape, and from its physiognomy, which + can be distinctly seen when the sun is in the west, is evidently igneous. + On the northern end there is a hot sulphurous fountain, which my + Portuguese friends refused to allow me to visit, because the mountain is + well peopled, and the mountaineers are at present not friendly with the + Portuguese. They have plenty of garden-ground and running water on its + summit. My friends at Senna declined the responsibility of taking me into + danger. To the north of Morumbala we have a fine view of the mountains of + the Maganja; they here come close to the river, and terminate in + Morumbala. Many of them are conical, and the Shire is reported to flow + among them, and to run on the Senna side of Morumbala before joining the + Zambesi. On seeing the confluence afterward, close to a low range of hills + beyond Morumbala, I felt inclined to doubt the report, as the Shire must + then flow parallel with the Zambesi, from which Morumbala seems distant + only twenty or thirty miles. All around to the southeast the country is + flat, and covered with forest, but near Senna a number of little abrupt + conical hills diversify the scenery. To the west and north the country is + also flat forest, which gives it a sombre appearance; but just in the haze + of the horizon southwest by south, there rises a mountain range equal in + height to Morumbala, and called Nyamonga. In a clear day another range + beyond this may be seen, which is Gorongozo, once a station of the + Jesuits. Gorongozo is famed for its clear cold waters and healthiness, and + there are some inscriptions engraved on large square slabs on the top of + the mountain, which have probably been the work of the fathers. As this + lies in the direction of a district between Manica and Sofala, which has + been conjectured to be the Ophir of King Solomon, the idea that first + sprang up in my mind was, that these monuments might be more ancient than + the Portuguese; but, on questioning some persons who had seen them, I + found that they were in Roman characters, and did not deserve a journey of + six days to see them. + </p> + <p> + Manica lies three days northwest of Gorongozo, and is the best gold + country known in Eastern Africa. The only evidence the Portuguese have of + its being the ancient Ophir is, that at Sofala, its nearest port, pieces + of wrought gold have been dug up near the fort and in the gardens. They + also report the existence of hewn stones in the neighborhood, but these + can not have been abundant, for all the stones of the fort of Sofala are + said to have been brought from Portugal. Natives whom I met in the country + of Sekeletu, from Manica, or Manoa, as they call it, state that there are + several caves in the country, and walls of hewn stones, which they believe + to have been made by their ancestors; and there is, according to the + Portuguese, a small tribe of Arabs there, who have become completely like + the other natives. Two rivers, the Motirikwe and Sabia, or Sabe, run + through their country into the sea. The Portuguese were driven out of the + country by the Landeens, but now talk of reoccupying Manica. + </p> + <p> + The most pleasant sight I witnessed at Senna was the negroes of Senhor + Isidore building boats after the European model, without any one to + superintend their operations. They had been instructed by a European + master, but now go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trees, lay + down the keel, fit in the ribs, and make very neat boats and launches, + valued at from 20 Pounds to 100 Pounds. Senhor Isidore had some of them + instructed also in carpentry at Rio Janeiro, and they constructed for him + the handsomest house in Kilimane, the woodwork being all of country trees, + some of which are capable of a fine polish, and very durable. A medical + opinion having been asked by the commandant respecting a better site for + the village, which, lying on the low bank of the Zambesi, is very + unhealthy, I recommended imitation of the Jesuits, who had chosen the + high, healthy mountain of Gorongozo, and to select a new site on + Morumbala, which is perfectly healthy, well watered, and where the Shire + is deep enough for the purpose of navigation at its base. As the next + resource, I proposed removal to the harbor of Mitilone, which is at one of + the mouths of the Zambesi, a much better port than Kilimane, and where, if + they must have the fever, they would be in the way of doing more good to + themselves and the country than they can do in their present situation. + Had the Portuguese possessed this territory as a real colony, this + important point would not have been left unoccupied; as it is, there is + not even a native village placed at the entrance of this splendid river to + show the way in. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of May sixteen of my men were employed to carry government + goods in canoes up to Tete. They were much pleased at getting this work. + On the 11th the whole of the inhabitants of Senna, with the commandant, + accompanied us to the boats. A venerable old man, son of a judge, said + they were in much sorrow on account of the miserable state of decay into + which they had sunk, and of the insolent conduct of the people of Kisaka + now in the village. We were abundantly supplied with provisions by the + commandant and Senhor Ferrao, and sailed pleasantly down the broad river. + About thirty miles below Senna we passed the mouth of the River Zangwe on + our right, which farther up goes by the name of Pungwe; and about five + miles farther on our left, close to the end of a low range into which + Morumbala merges, we crossed the mouth of the Shire, which seemed to be + about 200 yards broad. A little inland from the confluence there is + another rebel stockade, which was attacked by Ensign Rebeiro with three + European soldiers, and captured; they disarmed the rebels and threw the + guns into the water. This ensign and Miranda volunteered to disperse the + people of Kisaka who were riding roughshod over the inhabitants of Senna; + but the offer was declined, the few real Portuguese fearing the disloyal + half-castes among whom they dwelt. Slavery and immorality have here done + their work; nowhere else does the European name stand at so low an ebb; + but what can be expected? Few Portuguese women are ever taken to the + colonies, and here I did not observe that honorable regard for the + offspring which I noticed in Angola. The son of a late governor of Tete + was pointed out to me in the condition and habit of a slave. There is + neither priest nor school at Senna, though there are ruins of churches and + convents. + </p> + <p> + On passing the Shire we observed great quantities of the plant Alfacinya, + already mentioned, floating down into the Zambesi. It is probably the + 'Pistia stratiotes', a gigantic "duck-weed". It was mixed with quantities + of another aquatic plant, which the Barotse named "Njefu", containing in + the petiole of the leaf a pleasant-tasted nut. This was so esteemed by + Sebituane that he made it part of his tribute from the subjected tribes. + Dr. Hooker kindly informs me that the njefu "is probably a species of + 'Trapa', the nuts of which are eaten in the south of Europe and in India. + Government derives a large revenue from them in Kashmir, amounting to + 12,000 Pounds per annum for 128,000 ass-loads! The ancient Thracians are + said to have eaten them largely. In the south of France they are called + water-chestnuts." The existence of these plants in such abundance in the + Shire may show that it flows from large collections of still water. We + found them growing in all the still branches and lagoons of the Leeambye + in the far north, and there also we met a beautiful little floating plant, + the 'Azolla Nilotica', which is found in the upper Nile. They are seldom + seen in flowing streams. + </p> + <p> + A few miles beyond the Shire we left the hills entirely, and sailed + between extensive flats. The banks seen in the distance are covered with + trees. We slept on a large inhabited island, and then came to the entrance + of the River Mutu (latitude 18d 3' 37" S., longitude 35d 46' E.): the + point of departure is called Mazaro, or "mouth of the Mutu". The people + who live on the north are called Baroro, and their country Bororo. The + whole of the right bank is in subjection to the Landeens, who, it was + imagined, would levy a tribute upon us, for this they are accustomed to do + to passengers. I regret that we did not meet them, for, though they are + named Caffres, I am not sure whether they are of the Zulu family or of the + Mashona. I should have liked to form their acquaintance, and to learn what + they really think of white men. I understood from Sekwebu, and from one of + Changamera's people who lives at Linyanti, and was present at the attack + on Senna, that they consider the whites as a conquered tribe. + </p> + <p> + The Zambesi at Mazaro is a magnificent river, more than half a mile wide, + and without islands. The opposite bank is covered with forests of fine + timber; but the delta which begins here is only an immense flat, covered + with high, coarse grass and reeds, with here and there a few mango and + cocoanut trees. This was the point which was reached by the late lamented + Captain Parker, who fell at the Sulina mouth of the Danube. I had a strong + desire to follow the Zambesi farther, and ascertain where this enormous + body of water found its way into the sea; but on hearing from the + Portuguese that he had ascended to this point, and had been highly pleased + with the capabilities of the river, I felt sure that his valuable opinion + must be in possession of the Admiralty. On my arrival in England I applied + to Captain Washington, Hydrographer to the Admiralty, and he promptly + furnished the document for publication by the Royal Geographical Society. + </p> + <p> + The river between Mazaro and the sea must therefore be judged of from the + testimony of one more competent to decide on its merits than a mere + landsman like myself. + </p> + <p> + 'On the Quilimane and Zambesi Rivers'. From the Journal of the late Capt. + HYDE PARKER, R.N., H. M. Brig "Pantaloon". + </p> + <p> + "The Luabo is the main outlet of the Great Zambesi. In the rainy season—January + and February principally—the whole country is overflowed, and the + water escapes by the different rivers as far up as Quilimane; but in the + dry season neither Quilimane nor Olinda communicates with it. The position + of the river is rather incorrect in the Admiralty chart, being six miles + too much to the southward, and also considerably to the westward. Indeed, + the coast from here up to Tongamiara seems too far to the westward. The + entrance to the Luabo River is about two miles broad, and is easily + distinguishable, when abreast of it, by a bluff (if I may so term it) of + high, straight trees, very close together, on the western side of the + entrance. The bar may be said to be formed by two series of sand-banks; + that running from the eastern point runs diagonally across (opposite?) the + entrance and nearly across it. Its western extremity is about two miles + outside the west point. + </p> + <p> + "The bank running out from the west point projects to the southward three + miles and a half, passing not one quarter of a mile from the eastern or + cross bank. This narrow passage is the BAR PASSAGE. It breaks completely + across at low water, except under very extraordinary circumstances. At + this time—low water—a great portion of the banks are + uncovered; in some places they are seven or eight feet above water. + </p> + <p> + "On these banks there is a break at all times, but in fine weather, at + high water, a boat may cross near the east point. There is very little + water, and, in places, a nasty race and bubble, so that caution is + requisite. The best directions for going in over the regular bar passage, + according to my experience, are as follows: Steer down well to the + eastward of the bar passage, so as to avoid the outer part of the western + shoals, on which there is usually a bad sea. When you get near the + CROSS-BAR, keep along it till the bluff of trees on the west side of the + entrance bears N.E.; you may then steer straight for it. This will clear + the end of the CROSS-BAR, and, directly you are within that, the water is + smooth. The worst sea is generally just without the bar passage. + </p> + <p> + "Within the points the river widens at first and then contracts again. + About three miles from the Tree Bluff is an island; the passage up the + river is the right-hand side of it, and deep. The plan will best explain + it. The rise and fall of the tide at the entrance of the river being at + springs twenty feet, any vessel can get in at that time, but, with all + these conveniences for traffic, there is none here at present. The water + in the river is fresh down to the bar with the ebb tide, and in the rainy + season it is fresh at the surface quite outside. In the rainy season, at + the full and change of the moon, the Zambesi frequently overflows its + banks, making the country for an immense distance one great lake, with + only a few small eminences above the water. On the banks of the river the + huts are built on piles, and at these times the communication is only in + canoes; but the waters do not remain up more than three or four days at a + time. The first village is about eight miles up the river, on the western + bank, and is opposite to another branch of the river called 'Muselo', + which discharges itself into the sea about five miles to the eastward. + </p> + <p> + "The village is extensive, and about it there is a very large quantity of + land in cultivation; calavances, or beans, of different sorts, rice, and + pumpkins, are the principal things. I saw also about here some wild + cotton, apparently of very good quality, but none is cultivated. The land + is so fertile as to produce almost any (thing?) without much trouble. + </p> + <p> + "At this village is a very large house, mud-built, with a court-yard. I + believe it to have been used as a barracoon for slaves, several large + cargoes having been exported from this river. I proceeded up the river as + far as its junction with the Quilimane River, called 'Boca do Rio', by my + computation between 70 and 80 miles from the entrance. The influence of + the tides is felt about 25 or 30 miles up the river. Above that, the + stream, in the dry season, runs from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 miles an hour, but in + the rains much stronger. The banks of the river, for the first 30 miles, + are generally thickly clothed with trees, with occasional open glades. + There are many huts and villages on both sides, and a great deal of + cultivation. At one village, about 17 miles up on the eastern bank, and + distinguished by being surrounded by an immense number of bananas and + plantain-trees, a great quantity of excellent peas are cultivated; also + cabbages, tomatoes, onions, etc. Above this there are not many inhabitants + on the left or west bank, although it is much the finest country, being + higher, and abounding in cocoanut palms, the eastern bank being sandy and + barren. The reason is, that some years back the Landeens, or Caffres, + ravaged all this country, killing the men and taking the women as slaves, + but they have never crossed the river; hence the natives are afraid to + settle on the west bank, and the Portuguese owners of the different + 'prasos' have virtually lost them. The banks of the river continue mostly + sandy, with few trees, except some cocoanut palms, until the southern end + of the large plantation of Nyangue, formed by the river about 20 miles + from Maruru. Here the country is more populous and better cultivated, the + natives a finer race, and the huts larger and better constructed. Maruru + belongs to Senor Asevedo, of Quilimane, well known to all English officers + on the east coast for his hospitality. + </p> + <p> + "The climate here is much cooler than nearer the sea, and Asevedo has + successfully cultivated most European as well as tropical vegetables. The + sugar-cane thrives, as also coffee and cotton, and indigo is a weed. + Cattle here are beautiful, and some of them might show with credit in + England. The natives are intelligent, and under a good government this + fine country might become very valuable. Three miles from Maruru is Mesan, + a very pretty village among palm and mango trees. There is here a good + house belonging to a Senor Ferrao; close by is the canal (Mutu) of + communication between the Quilimane and Zambesi rivers, which in the rainy + season is navigable (?). I visited it in the month of October, which is + about the dryest time of the year; it was then a dry canal, about 30 or 40 + yards wide, overgrown with trees and grass, and, at the bottom, at least + 16 or 17 feet above the level of the Zambesi, which was running beneath. + In the rains, by the marks I saw, the entrance rise of the river must be + very nearly 30 feet, and the volume of water discharged by it (the + Zambesi) enormous. + </p> + <p> + "Above Maruru the country begins to become more hilly, and the high + mountains of Boruru are in sight; the first view of these is obtained + below Nyangue, and they must be of considerable height, as from this they + are distant above 40 miles. They are reported to contain great mineral + wealth; gold and copper being found in the range, as also COAL (?). The + natives (Landeens) are a bold, independent race, who do not acknowledge + the Portuguese authority, and even make them pay for leave to pass + unmolested. Throughout the whole course of the river hippopotami were very + abundant, and at one village a chase by the natives was witnessed. They + harpoon the animal with a barbed lance, to which is attached, by a cord 3 + or 4 fathoms long, an inflated bladder. The natives follow in their + canoes, and look out to fix more harpoons as the animal rises to blow, + and, when exhausted, dispatch him with their lances. It is, in fact, + nearly similar to a whale-hunt. Elephants and lions are also abundant on + the western side; the latter destroy many of the blacks annually, and are + much feared by them. Alligators are said to be numerous, but I did not see + any. + </p> + <p> + "The voyage up to Maruru occupied seven days, as I did not work the men at + the oar, but it might be done in four; we returned to the bar in two and a + half days. + </p> + <p> + "There is another mouth of the Zambesi seven miles to the westward of + Luabo, which was visited by the 'Castor's pinnace'; and I was assured by + Lieutenant Hoskins that the bar was better than the one I visited." + </p> + <p> + The conclusions of Captain Parker are strengthened by those of Lieut. A. + H. H. Hoskins, who was on the coast at the same time, and also visited + this spot. Having applied to my friend for his deliberate opinion on the + subject, he promptly furnished the following note in January last: + </p> + <p> + "The Zambesi appears to have five principal mouths, of which the Luabo is + the most southern and most navigable; Cumana, and two whose names I do not + know, not having myself visited it, lying between it and the Quilimane, + and the rise and fall at spring tides on the bar of the Luabo is 22 feet; + and as, in the passage, there is NEVER less than four feet (I having + crossed it at dead low-water—springs), this would give an average + depth sufficient for any commercial purposes. The rise and fall is six + feet greater, the passages narrow and more defined, consequently deeper + and more easily found than that of the Quilimane River. The river above + the bar is very tortuous, but deep; and it is observable that the + influence of the tide is felt much higher in this branch than in the + others; for whereas in the Catrina and Cumana I have obtained drinkable + water a very short distance from the mouth, in the Luabo I have ascended + seventy miles without finding the saltness perceptibly diminished. This + would facilitate navigation, and I have no hesitation in saying that + little difficulty would be experienced in conveying a steam-vessel of the + size and capabilities of the gunboat I lately commanded as high as the + branching off of the Quilimane River (Mazaro), which, in the dry season, + is observed many yards above the Luabo (main stream); though I have been + told by the Portuguese that the freshes which come down in December and + March fill it temporarily. These freshes deepen the river considerably at + that time of the year, and freshen the water many miles from the coast. + The population of the delta, except in the immediate neighborhood of the + Portuguese, appeared to be very sparse. Antelopes and hippopotami were + plentiful; the former tame and easily shot. I inquired frequently of both + natives and Portuguese if slavers were in the habit of entering there to + ship their cargoes, but could not ascertain that they have ever done so in + any except the Quilimane. With common precaution the rivers are not + unhealthy; for, during the whole time I was employed in them (off and on + during eighteen months), in open boats and at all times of the year, + frequently absent from the ship for a month or six weeks at a time, I had + not, in my boat's crew of fourteen men, more than two, and those mild, + cases of fever. Too much importance can not be ascribed to the use of + quinine, to which I attribute our comparative immunity, and with which our + judicious commander, Commodore Wyvill, kept us amply supplied. I hope + these few remarks may be of some little use in confirming your views of + the utility of that magnificent river. + </p> + <p> + A. H. H. Hoskins." + </p> + <p> + It ought to be remembered that the testimony of these gentlemen is all the + more valuable, because they visited the river when the water was at its + lowest, and the surface of the Zambesi was not, as it was now, on a level + with and flowing into the Mutu, but sixteen feet beneath its bed. The + Mutu, at the point of departure, was only ten or twelve yards broad, + shallow, and filled with aquatic plants. Trees and reeds along the banks + overhang it so much, that, though we had brought canoes and a boat from + Tete, we were unable to enter the Mutu with them, and left them at Mazaro. + During most of the year this part of the Mutu is dry, and we were even now + obliged to carry all our luggage by land for about fifteen miles. As + Kilimane is called, in all the Portuguese documents, the capital of the + rivers of Senna, it seemed strange to me that the capital should be built + at a point where there was no direct water conveyance to the magnificent + river whose name it bore; and, on inquiry, I was informed that the whole + of the Mutu was large in days of yore, and admitted of the free passage of + great launches from Kilimane all the year round, but that now this part of + the Mutu had been filled up. + </p> + <p> + I was seized by a severe tertian fever at Mazaro, but went along the right + bank of the Mutu to the N.N.E. and E. for about fifteen miles. We then + found that it was made navigable by a river called the Pangazi, which + comes into it from the north. Another river, flowing from the same + direction, called the Luare, swells it still more; and, last of all, the + Likuare, with the tide, make up the river of Kilimane. The Mutu at Mazaro + is simply a connecting link, such as is so often seen in Africa, and + neither its flow nor stoppage affects the river of Kilimane. The waters of + the Pangazi were quite clear compared with those of the Zambesi.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I owe the following information, of a much later date, also + to the politeness of Captain Washington. H. M. sloop + "Grecian" visited the coast in 1852-3, and the master remarks + that "the entrance to the Luabo is in lat. 18d 51' S., long. + 36d 12' E., and may be known by a range of hummocks on its + eastern side, and very low land to the S.W. The entrance is + narrow, and, as with all the rivers on this coast, is fronted + by a bar, which renders the navigation, particularly for + boats, very dangerous with the wind to the south of east or + west. Our boats proceeded twenty miles up this river, 2 + fathoms on the bar, then 2-1/2—5—6—7 fathoms. It was + navigable farther up, but they did not proceed. It is quite + possible for a moderate-sized vessel to cross the bar at + spring tides, and be perfectly landlocked and hidden among the + trees. + + "The Maiudo, in 18d 52' S., 36d 12' E., IS NOT MENTIONED IN + HORSBURGH, NOR LAID DOWN IN THE ADMIRALTY CHART, but is, + nevertheless, one of some importance, and appears to be one of + the principal stations for shipping slaves, as the boats found + two barracoons, about 20 miles up, bearing every indication of + having been very recently occupied, and which had good + presumptive evidence that the 'Cauraigo', a brig under + American colors, had embarked a cargo from thence but a short + time before. The river is fronted by a portion of the + Elephant Shoals, at the distance of three or four miles + outside. The eastern bank is formed by level sea-cliffs (as + seen from the ship it has that appearance), high for this part + of the coast, and conspicuous. The western side is composed of + thick trees, and terminates in dead wood, from which we called + it 'Dead-wood Point'. After crossing the bar it branches off + in a W. and N.W. direction, the latter being the principal + arm, up which the boats went some 30 miles, or about 10 beyond + the barracoon. Fresh water can be obtained almost immediately + inside the entrance, as the stream runs down very rapidly with + the ebb tide. The least water crossing the bar (low-water— + springs) was 1-1/2 fathom, one cast only therefrom from 2 to 5 + fathoms, another 7 fathoms nearly the whole way up. + + "The Catrina, latitude 18d 50' south, longitude 36d 24' east. + The external appearance of this river is precisely similar to + that of the Maiudo, so much so that it is difficult to + distinguish them by any feature of the land. The longitude is + the best guide, or, in the absence of observation, perhaps the + angles contained by the extremes of land will be serviceable. + Thus, at nine miles off the Maiudo the angle contained by the + above was seven points, the bearing being N.E. W. of N.W. (?); + while off the Catrina, at the same distance from shore (about + nine miles), the angle was only 3-1/2 to 4 points, being N. to + N.W. As we did not send the boats up this river, no + information was obtained." +</pre> + <p> + My fever became excessively severe in consequence of traveling in the hot + sun, and the long grass blocking up the narrow path so as to exclude the + air. The pulse beat with amazing force, and felt as if thumping against + the crown of the head. The stomach and spleen swelled enormously, giving + me, for the first time, an appearance which I had been disposed to laugh + at among the Portuguese. At Interra we met Senhor Asevedo, a man who is + well known by all who ever visited Kilimane, and who was presented with a + gold chronometer watch by the Admiralty for his attentions to English + officers. He immediately tendered his large sailing launch, which had a + house in the stern. This was greatly in my favor, for it anchored in the + middle of the stream, and gave me some rest from the mosquitoes, which in + the whole of the delta are something frightful. Sailing comfortably in + this commodious launch along the river of Kilimane, we reached that + village (latitude 17d 53' 8" S., longitude 36d 40' E.) on the 20th of May, + 1856, which wanted only a few days of being four years since I started + from Cape Town. Here I was received into the house of Colonel Galdino Jose + Nunes, one of the best men in the country. I had been three years without + hearing from my family; letters having frequently been sent, but somehow + or other, with but a single exception, they never reached me. I received, + however, a letter from Admiral Trotter, conveying information of their + welfare, and some newspapers, which were a treat indeed. Her majesty's + brig the "Frolic" had called to inquire for me in the November previous, + and Captain Nolluth, of that ship, had most considerately left a case of + wine; and his surgeon, Dr. James Walsh, divining what I should need most, + left an ounce of quinine. These gifts made my heart overflow. I had not + tasted any liquor whatever during the time I had been in Africa; but when + reduced in Angola to extreme weakness, I found much benefit from a little + wine, and took from Loanda one bottle of brandy in my medicine chest, + intending to use it if it were again required; but the boy who carried it + whirled the box upside down, and smashed the bottle, so I can not give my + testimony either in favor of or against the brandy. + </p> + <p> + But my joy on reaching the east coast was sadly imbittered by the news + that Commander MacLune, of H. M. brigantine "Dart", on coming in to + Kilimane to pick me up, had, with Lieutenant Woodruffe and five men, been + lost on the bar. I never felt more poignant sorrow. It seemed as if it + would have been easier for me to have died for them, than that they should + all be cut off from the joys of life in generously attempting to render me + a service. I would here acknowledge my deep obligations to the Earl of + Clarendon, to the admiral at the Cape, and others, for the kind interest + they manifested in my safety; even the inquiries made were very much to my + advantage. I also refer with feelings of gratitude to the Governor of + Mozambique for offering me a passage in the schooner "Zambesi", belonging + to that province; and I shall never forget the generous hospitality of + Colonel Nunes and his nephew, with whom I remained. One of the discoveries + I have made is that there are vast numbers of good people in the world, + and I do most devoutly tender my unfeigned thanks to that Gracious One who + mercifully watched over me in every position, and influenced the hearts of + both black and white to regard me with favor. + </p> + <p> + With the united testimony of Captain Parker and Lieutenant Hoskins, added + to my own observation, there can be no reasonable doubt but that the real + mouth of the Zambesi is available for the purposes of commerce. The delta + is claimed by the Portuguese, and the southern bank of the Luabo, or + Cuama, as this part of the Zambesi is sometimes called, is owned by + independent natives of the Caffre family. The Portuguese are thus near the + main entrance to the new central region; and as they have of late years + shown, in an enlightened and liberal spirit, their desire to develop the + resources of Eastern Africa by proclaiming Mozambique a free port, it is + to be hoped that the same spirit will lead them to invite mercantile + enterprise up the Zambesi, by offering facilities to those who may be led + to push commerce into the regions lying far beyond their territory. Their + wish to co-operate in the noble work of developing the resources of the + rich country beyond could not be shown better than by placing a village + with Zambesian pilots at the harbor of Mitilone, and erecting a + light-house for the guidance of seafaring men. If this were done, no + nation would be a greater gainer by it than the Portuguese themselves, and + assuredly no other needs a resuscitation of its commerce more. Their + kindness to me personally makes me wish for a return of their ancient + prosperity; and the most liberal and generous act of the enlightened young + king H. M. Don Pedro, in sending out orders to support my late companions + at the public expense of the province of Mozambique until my return to + claim them, leads me to hope for encouragement in every measure for either + the development of commerce, the elevation of the natives, or abolition of + the trade in slaves. + </p> + <p> + As far as I am myself concerned, the opening of the new central country is + a matter for congratulation only in so far as it opens up a prospect for + the elevation of the inhabitants. As I have elsewhere remarked, I view the + end of the geographical feat as the beginning of the missionary + enterprise. I take the latter term in its most extended signification, and + include every effort made for the amelioration of our race, the promotion + of all those means by which God in His providence is working, and bringing + all His dealings with man to a glorious consummation. Each man in his + sphere, either knowingly or unwittingly, is performing the will of our + Father in heaven. Men of science, searching after hidden truths, which, + when discovered, will, like the electric telegraph, bind men more closely + together—soldiers battling for the right against tyranny—sailors + rescuing the victims of oppression from the grasp of heartless + men-stealers—merchants teaching the nations lessons of mutual + dependence—and many others, as well as missionaries, all work in the + same direction, and all efforts are overruled for one glorious end. + </p> + <p> + If the reader has accompanied me thus far, he may, perhaps, be disposed to + take an interest in the objects I propose to myself, should God mercifully + grant me the honor of doing something more for Africa. As the highlands on + the borders of the central basin are comparatively healthy, the first + object seems to be to secure a permanent path thither, in order that + Europeans may pass as quickly as possible through the unhealthy region + near the coast. The river has not been surveyed, but at the time I came + down there was abundance of water for a large vessel, and this continues + to be the case during four or five months of each year. The months of low + water still admit of navigation by launches, and would permit small + vessels equal to the Thames steamers to ply with ease in the deep channel. + If a steamer were sent to examine the Zambesi, I would recommend one of + the lightest draught, and the months of May, June, and July for passing + through the delta; and this not so much for fear of want of water as the + danger of being grounded on a sand or mud bank, and the health of the crew + being endangered by the delay. + </p> + <p> + In the months referred to no obstruction would be incurred in the channel + below Tete. Twenty or thirty miles above that point we have a small rapid, + of which I regret my inability to speak, as (mentioned already) I did not + visit it. But, taking the distance below this point, we have, in round + numbers, 300 miles of navigable river. Above this rapid we have another + reach of 300 miles, with sand, but no mud banks in it, which brings us to + the foot of the eastern ridge. Let it not, however, be thought that a + vessel by going thither would return laden with ivory and gold-dust. The + Portuguese of Tete pick up all the merchandise of the tribes in their + vicinity, and, though I came out by traversing the people with whom the + Portuguese have been at war, it does not follow that it will be perfectly + safe for others to go in whose goods may be a stronger temptation to + cupidity than any thing I possessed. When we get beyond the hostile + population mentioned, we reach a very different race. On the latter my + chief hopes at present rest. All of them, however, are willing and anxious + to engage in trade, and, while eager for this, none have ever been + encouraged to cultivate the raw materials of commerce. Their country is + well adapted for cotton; and I venture to entertain the hope that by + distributing seeds of better kinds than that which is found indigenous, + and stimulating the natives to cultivate it by affording them the + certainty of a market for all they may produce, we may engender a feeling + of mutual dependence between them and ourselves. I have a twofold object + in view, and believe that, by guiding our missionary labors so as to + benefit our own country, we shall thereby more effectually and permanently + benefit the heathen. Seven years were spent at Kolobeng in instructing my + friends there; but the country being incapable of raising materials for + exportation, when the Boers made their murderous attack and scattered the + tribe for a season, none sympathized except a few Christian friends. Had + the people of Kolobeng been in the habit of raising the raw materials of + English commerce, the outrage would have been felt in England; or, what is + more likely to have been the case, the people would have raised themselves + in the scale by barter, and have become, like the Basutos of Moshesh and + people of Kuruman, possessed of fire-arms, and the Boers would never have + made the attack at all. We ought to encourage the Africans to cultivate + for our markets, as the most effectual means, next to the Gospel, of their + elevation. + </p> + <p> + It is in the hope of working out this idea that I propose the formation of + stations on the Zambesi beyond the Portuguese territory, but having + communication through them with the coast. A chain of stations admitting + of easy and speedy intercourse, such as might be formed along the flank of + the eastern ridge, would be in a favorable position for carrying out the + objects in view. The London Missionary Society has resolved to have a + station among the Makololo on the north bank, and another on the south + among the Matebele. The Church—Wesleyan, Baptist, and that most + energetic body, the Free Church—could each find desirable locations + among the Batoka and adjacent tribes. The country is so extensive there is + no fear of clashing. All classes of Christians find that sectarian rancor + soon dies out when they are working together among and for the real + heathen. Only let the healthy locality be searched for and fixed upon, and + then there will be free scope to work in the same cause in various + directions, without that loss of men which the system of missions on the + unhealthy coasts entails. While respectfully submitting the plan to these + influential societies, I can positively state that, when fairly in the + interior, there is perfect security for life and property among a people + who will at least listen and reason. + </p> + <p> + Eight of my men begged to be allowed to come as far as Kilimane, and, + thinking that they would there see the ocean, I consented to their coming, + though the food was so scarce in consequence of a dearth that they were + compelled to suffer some hunger. They would fain have come farther; for + when Sekeletu parted with them, his orders were that none of them should + turn until they had reached Ma Robert and brought her back with them. On + my explaining the difficulty of crossing the sea, he said, "Wherever you + lead, they must follow." As I did not know well how I should get home + myself, I advised them to go back to Tete, where food was abundant, and + there await my return. I bought a quantity of calico and brass wire with + ten of the smaller tusks which we had in our charge, and sent the former + back as clothing to those who remained at Tete. As there were still twenty + tusks left, I deposited them with Colonel Nunes, that, in the event of any + thing happening to prevent my return, the impression might not be produced + in the country that I had made away with Sekeletu's ivory. I instructed + Colonel Nunes, in case of my death, to sell the tusks and deliver the + proceeds to my men; but I intended, if my life should be prolonged, to + purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England with my own money, and + pay myself on my return out of the price of the ivory. This I explained to + the men fully, and they, understanding the matter, replied, "Nay, father, + you will not die; you will return to take us back to Sekeletu." They + promised to wait till I came back, and, on my part, I assured them that + nothing but death would prevent my return. This I said, though while + waiting at Kilimane a letter came from the Directors of the London + Missionary Society stating that "they were restricted in their power of + aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the Gospel, and + that the financial circumstances of the society were not such as to afford + any ground of hope that it would be in a position, within any definite + period, to enter upon untried, remote, and difficult fields of labor." + This has been explained since as an effusion caused by temporary financial + depression; but, feeling perfect confidence in my Makololo friends, I was + determined to return and trust to their generosity. The old love of + independence, which I had so strongly before joining the society, again + returned. It was roused by a mistaken view of what this letter meant; for + the directors, immediately on my reaching home, saw the great importance + of the opening, and entered with enlightened zeal on the work of sending + the Gospel into the new field. It is to be hoped that their constituents + will not only enable them to begin, but to carry out their plans, and that + no material depression will ever again be permitted, nor appearance of + spasmodic benevolence recur. While I hope to continue the same cordial + co-operation and friendship which have always characterized our + intercourse, various reasons induce me to withdraw from pecuniary + dependence on any society. I have done something for the heathen, but for + an aged mother, who has still more sacred claims than they, I have been + able to do nothing, and a continuance of the connection would be a + perpetuation of my inability to make any provision for her declining + years. In addition to "clergyman's sore throat", which partially disabled + me from the work, my father's death imposed new obligations; and a fresh + source of income having been opened to me without my asking, I had no + hesitation in accepting what would enable me to fulfill my duty to my aged + parent as well as to the heathen. + </p> + <p> + If the reader remembers the way in which I was led, while teaching the + Bakwains, to commence exploration, he will, I think, recognize the hand of + Providence. Anterior to that, when Mr. Moffat began to give the Bible—the + Magna Charta of all the rights and privileges of modern civilization—to + the Bechuanas, Sebituane went north, and spread the language into which he + was translating the sacred oracles in a new region larger than France. + Sebituane, at the same time, rooted out hordes of bloody savages, among + whom no white man could have gone without leaving his skull to ornament + some village. He opened up the way for me—let us hope also for the + Bible. Then, again, while I was laboring at Kolobeng, seeing only a small + arc of the cycle of Providence, I could not understand it, and felt + inclined to ascribe our successive and prolonged droughts to the wicked + one. But when forced by these and the Boers to become explorer, and open a + new country in the north rather than set my face southward, where + missionaries are not needed, the gracious Spirit of God influenced the + minds of the heathen to regard me with favor; the Divine hand is again + perceived. Then I turned away westward rather than in the opposite + direction, chiefly from observing that some native Portuguese, though + influenced by the hope of a reward from their government to cross the + continent, had been obliged to return from the east without accomplishing + their object. Had I gone at first in the eastern direction, which the + course of the great Leeambye seemed to invite, I should have come among + the belligerents near Tete when the war was raging at its height, instead + of, as it happened, when all was over. And again, when enabled to reach + Loanda, the resolution to do my duty by going back to Linyanti probably + saved me from the fate of my papers in the "Forerunner". And then, last of + all, this new country is partially opened to the sympathies of + Christendom, and I find that Sechele himself has, though unbidden by man, + been teaching his own people. In fact, he has been doing all that I was + prevented from doing, and I have been employed in exploring—a work I + had no previous intention of performing. I think that I see the operation + of the unseen hand in all this, and I humbly hope that it will still guide + me to do good in my day and generation in Africa. + </p> + <p> + Viewing the success awarded to opening up the new country as a development + of Divine Providence in relation to the African family, the mind naturally + turns to the probable influence it may have on negro slavery, and more + especially on the practice of it by a large portion of our own race. We + now demand increased supplies of cotton and sugar, and then reprobate the + means our American brethren adopt to supply our wants. We claim a right to + speak about this evil, and also to act in reference to its removal, the + more especially because we are of one blood. It is on the Anglo-American + race that the hopes of the world for liberty and progress rest. Now it is + very grievous to find one portion of this race practicing the gigantic + evil, and the other aiding, by increased demands for the produce of slave + labor, in perpetuating the enormous wrong. The Mauritius, a mere speck on + the ocean, yields sugar, by means of guano, improved machinery, and free + labor, equal in amount to one fourth part of the entire consumption of + Great Britain. On that island land is excessively dear and far from rich: + no crop can be raised except by means of guano, and labor has to be + brought all the way from India. But in Africa the land is cheap, the soil + good, and free labor is to be found on the spot. Our chief hopes rest with + the natives themselves; and if the point to which I have given prominence, + of healthy inland commercial stations, be realized, where all the produce + raised may be collected, there is little doubt but that slavery among our + kinsmen across the Atlantic will, in the course of some years, cease to + assume the form of a necessity to even the slaveholders themselves. + Natives alone can collect produce from the more distant hamlets, and bring + it to the stations contemplated. This is the system pursued so + successfully in Angola. If England had possessed that strip of land, by + civilly declining to enrich her "frontier colonists" by "Caffre wars", the + inborn energy of English colonists would have developed its resources, and + the exports would not have been 100,000 Pounds as now, but one million at + least. The establishment of the necessary agency must be a work of time, + and greater difficulty will be experienced on the eastern than on the + western side of the continent, because in the one region we have a people + who know none but slave-traders, while in the other we have tribes who + have felt the influence of the coast missionaries and of the great Niger + expedition; one invaluable benefit it conferred was the dissemination of + the knowledge of English love of commerce and English hatred of slavery, + and it therefore was no failure. But on the east there is a river which + may become a good pathway to a central population who are friendly to the + English; and if we can conciliate the less amicable people on the river, + and introduce commerce, an effectual blow will be struck at the + slave-trade in that quarter. By linking the Africans there to ourselves in + the manner proposed, it is hoped that their elevation will eventually be + the result. In this hope and proposed effort I am joined by my brother + Charles, who has come from America, after seventeen years' separation, for + the purpose. We expect success through the influence of that Spirit who + already aided the efforts to open the country, and who has since turned + the public mind toward it. A failure may be experienced by sudden rash + speculation overstocking the markets there, and raising the prices against + ourselves. But I propose to spend some more years of labor, and shall be + thankful if I see the system fairly begun in an open pathway which will + eventually benefit both Africa and England. + </p> + <p> + The village of Kilimane stands on a great mud bank, and is surrounded by + extensive swamps and rice-grounds. The banks of the river are lined with + mangrove bushes, the roots of which, and the slimy banks on which they + grow, are alternately exposed to the tide and sun. The houses are well + built of brick and lime, the latter from Mozambique. If one digs down two + or three feet in any part of the site of the village, he comes to water; + hence the walls built on this mud bank gradually subside; pieces are + sometimes sawn off the doors below, because the walls in which they are + fixed have descended into the ground, so as to leave the floors higher + than the bottom of the doors. It is almost needless to say that Kilimane + is very unhealthy. A man of plethoric temperament is sure to get fever, + and concerning a stout person one may hear the remark, "Ah! he will not + live long; he is sure to die." + </p> + <p> + A Hamburgh vessel was lost near the bar before we came down. The men were + much more regular in their habits than English sailors, so I had an + opportunity of observing the fever acting as a slow poison. They felt "out + of sorts" only, but gradually became pale, bloodless, and emaciated, then + weaker and weaker, till at last they sank more like oxen bitten by tsetse + than any disease I ever saw. The captain, a strong, robust young man, + remained in perfect health for about three months, but was at last knocked + down suddenly and made as helpless as a child by this terrible disease. He + had imbibed a foolish prejudice against quinine, our sheet-anchor in the + complaint. This is rather a professional subject, but I introduce it here + in order to protest against the prejudice as almost entirely unfounded. + Quinine is invaluable in fever, and never produces any unpleasant effects + in any stage of the disease, IF EXHIBITED IN COMBINATION WITH AN APERIENT. + The captain was saved by it, without his knowledge, and I was thankful + that the mode of treatment, so efficacious among natives, promised so fair + among Europeans. + </p> + <p> + After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, in which, however, + by the kind attentions of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, I partially + recovered from my tertian, H. M. brig "Frolic" arrived off Kilimane. As + the village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was rough, she + was at anchor ten days before we knew of her presence about seven miles + from the entrance to the port. She brought abundant supplies for all my + need, and 150 Pounds to pay my passage home, from my kind friend Mr. + Thompson, the Society's agent at the Cape. The admiral at the Cape kindly + sent an offer of a passage to the Mauritius, which I thankfully accepted. + Sekwebu and one attendant alone remained with me now. He was very + intelligent, and had been of the greatest service to me; indeed, but for + his good sense, tact, and command of the language of the tribes through + which we passed, I believe we should scarcely have succeeded in reaching + the coast. I naturally felt grateful to him; and as his chief wished ALL + my companions to go to England with me, and would probably be disappointed + if none went, I thought it would be beneficial for him to see the effects + of civilization, and report them to his countrymen; I wished also to make + some return for his very important services. Others had petitioned to + come, but I explained the danger of a change of climate and food, and with + difficulty restrained them. The only one who now remained begged so hard + to come on board ship that I greatly regretted that the expense prevented + my acceding to his wish to visit England. I said to him, "You will die if + you go to such a cold country as mine." "That is nothing," he reiterated; + "let me die at your feet." + </p> + <p> + When we parted from our friends at Kilimane, the sea on the bar was + frightful even to the seamen. This was the first time Sekwebu had seen the + sea. Captain Peyton had sent two boats in case of accident. The waves were + so high that, when the cutter was in one trough, and we in the pinnace in + another, her mast was hid. We then mounted to the crest of the wave, + rushed down the slope, and struck the water again with a blow which felt + as if she had struck the bottom. Boats must be singularly well constructed + to be able to stand these shocks. Three breakers swept over us. The men + lift up their oars, and a wave comes sweeping over all, giving the + impression that the boat is going down, but she only goes beneath the top + of the wave, comes out on the other side, and swings down the slope, and a + man bales out the water with a bucket. Poor Sekwebu looked at me when + these terrible seas broke over, and said, "Is this the way you go? Is this + the way you go?" I smiled and said, "Yes; don't you see it is?" and tried + to encourage him. He was well acquainted with canoes, but never had seen + aught like this. When we reached the ship—a fine, large brig of + sixteen guns and a crew of one hundred and thirty—she was rolling so + that we could see a part of her bottom. It was quite impossible for + landsmen to catch the ropes and climb up, so a chair was sent down, and we + were hoisted in as ladies usually are, and received so hearty an English + welcome from Captain Peyton and all on board that I felt myself at once at + home in every thing except my own mother tongue. I seemed to know the + language perfectly, but the words I wanted would not come at my call. When + I left England I had no intention of returning, and directed my attention + earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to English composition. + With the exception of a short interval in Angola, I had been three and a + half years without speaking English, and this, with thirteen years of + previous partial disuse of my native tongue, made me feel sadly at a loss + on board the "Frolic". + </p> + <p> + We left Kilimane on the 12th of July, and reached the Mauritius on the + 12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was picking up English, and becoming a + favorite with both men and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, every + thing on board a man-of-war being so new and strange; but he remarked to + me several times, "Your countrymen are very agreeable," and, "What a + strange country this is—all water together!" He also said that he + now understood why I used the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius a + steamer came out to tow us into the harbor. The constant strain on his + untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, for during the night he + became insane. I thought at first that he was intoxicated. He had + descended into a boat, and, when I attempted to go down and bring him into + the ship, he ran to the stern and said, "No! no! it is enough that I die + alone. You must not perish; if you come, I shall throw myself into the + water." Perceiving that his mind was affected, I said, "Now, Sekwebu, we + are going to Ma Robert." This struck a chord in his bosom, and he said, + "Oh yes; where is she, and where is Robert?" and he seemed to recover. The + officers proposed to secure him by putting him in irons; but, being a + gentleman in his own country, I objected, knowing that the insane often + retain an impression of ill treatment, and I could not bear to have it + said in Sekeletu's country that I had chained one of his principal men as + they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get him on shore by day, but he + refused. In the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred; he tried + to spear one of the crew, then leaped overboard, and, though he could swim + well, pulled himself down hand under hand by the chain cable. We never + found the body of poor Sekwebu. + </p> + <p> + At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by Major General C. M. + Hay, and he generously constrained me to remain with him till, by the + influence of the good climate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an + enlarged spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Red Sea; + escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable management of + Captain Powell, of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Company's ship + "Candia", and on the 12th of December was once more in dear old England. + The Company most liberally refunded my passage-money. I have not mentioned + half the favors bestowed, but I may just add that no one has cause for + more abundant gratitude to his fellow-men and to his Maker than I have; + and may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that I may be more + humbly devoted to the service of the Author of all our mercies! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Appendix.—Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions. + </h2> + <p> + [The "Remarks" column has been replaced, where needed, with remarks listed + below the corresponding line, and inclosed in square brackets.] + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets + South. East. of Lunar + Distances. +------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + d ' " d ' " W. E. + Manakalongwe Pass. 22 55 52 . . . 1853, Jan. 26 + Letloche. 22 38 0 . . . Jan. 28 + Kanne. 22 26 56 . . . Jan. 31 + Lotlokane, where the first 21 27 47 . . . Feb. 11, 12 + Palmyra-trees occur. + Hence path to Nchokotsa N.N.W., + thence to Kobe N.W. + Kobe (1st group). 20 53 14 24 52 0 Feb. 18, 19 + Kama Kama, from whence 19 52 31 . . . Mar. 2 + traveled in magnetic + meridian (1st group). + Fever Ponds (1st group). 19 15 53 24 55 0 Mar. 11, 28 + Ten miles S. of hill N'gwa 18 38 0 24 26 0 Apr. 14 + (1st group). + N'gwa Hill (a central 18 27 50 24 13 36 Apr. 15, 16 + occultation of + B.A.C. 2364 Gemini). + N'gwa Valley, half mile 18 27 20 24 13 36 Apr. 17 + N. of hill. + E. of and in parallel of 18 20 0 . . . Apr. 17 + Wagon Station of 1851. + Wagon Station on the Chobe, 18 20 0 23 50 0 . . . + three miles S. + of Sekeletu's Town. + Sekeletu's Town (1st group). 18 17 20 23 50 9 |June 13 | + |July 14, 17| + [ Boiling-point of water = 205-1/3 Deg.; Alt. = 3521 feet. ] + Island Mahonta. The Chobe 17 58 0 (24 6) Apr. 26 + runs here in 17d 58'. + Banks of Sanshureh River, 18 4 27 24 6 20 Apr. 26 + a branch of the Chobe + (1st group). + [ At a well-known Baobab-tree 9' south of Mahonta island. ] + Town of Sesheke 17 31 38 25 13 0 1855, Aug. 31 . 1 + on the Zambesi. + Sekhosi's Town on 17 29 13 . . . 1853, July 26, 27 + the Zambesi (about 25 miles + W. of Sesheke). + Cataract of Nambwe. 17 17 16 . . . July 31 + Confluence of 17 7 31 . . . 1855, Aug. 22 . 1 + Njoko and Zambesi. + Cataract of Bombwe. 16 56 33 . . . 1853, Aug. 1 + Kale Cataract. 16 49 52 . . . 1855, Aug. 21 . 1 + Falls of Gonye. 16 38 50 23 55 0 |1853, Aug. 2| + |1855, Aug. 19| 1 2 + Nameta. 16 12 9 . . . Aug. 17 . 2 + Seori sa Mei, 16 0 32 . . . 1853, Aug. 5 + or Island of Water. + Litofe Island, town of. 15 55 0 . . . Aug. 6 + Loyela, S. end of this 15 27 30 . . . Aug. 9 + island, town of Mamochisane. + Naliele or Nariele, 15 24 17 23 5 54 Aug. 10, 13 + chief town of Barotse + (occultation of Jupiter) + (1st group). + Linangelo, old town 15 18 40 . . . Aug. 19 + of Santuru (site nearly + swallowed up). + Katongo (near Slave 15 16 33 . . . Aug. 30 + Merchants' Stockade). + Point of Junction of Nariele 15 15 43 . . . Aug. 29 + Branch with the Main Stream. + Quando Village. 15 6 8 . . . Aug. 28 + Town of Libonta. 14 59 0 . . . Aug. 21 + Island of Tongane. 14 38 6 . . . Aug. 23 + Cowrie Island. 14 20 5 . . . Aug. 24 + Junction of the Loeti 14 18 57 . . . Aug. + with the Main Stream + (Leeambye, Zambesi). + [ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ] + Confluence of the Leeba 14 10 52 23 35 40 Aug. 24, 25 + or Lonta with the Leeambye + (1st group). + Kabompo, near the Leeba. 12 37 35 22 47 0 |1854, Jan. 1| + |1855, July 3| . 3 + Village about 2' N.W. 12 6 6 22 57 0 1854, Feb. 1 + of the Leeba after leaving + Kabompo town: the hill Peeri, + or Piri, bearing S.S.E., + distant about 6'. + Village of Soana Molopo, 11 49 22 22 42 0 Feb. 7 + 3' from Lokalueje River. + Village of Quendende, 11 41 17 . . . Feb. 11 + about 2' S.E. of the ford + of the Lotembwa, and about + 9' from the town of Katema. + Banks of the Lovoa. 11 40 54 . . . 1855, June 20 2 . + Lofuje River flows into 12 52 35 22 49 0 July 7 . 3 + the Leeba; Nyamoana's village. + Confluence of the Makondo 13 23 12 . . . July 13 + and Leeba Rivers. + Katema's Town, 5' S. of Lake 11 35 49 22 27 0 1854, Feb. 17 . 2 + Dilolo, the source of the + Lotembwa, one of the principal + feeders of the Leeba. + Lake Dilolo (station about 11 32 1 . . . 1855, June 18 . 2 + half a mile S. of the lake). June 13 . . + [ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ] + Village near the ford of 11 15 55 . . . 1854, Feb. 28 + the River Kasai, Kasye, + or Loke. The ford is + in latitude 11d 17'. + Bango's Village, about 10' 10 22 53 20 58 0 1855, May 28 3 . + W. of the Loembwe. + Banks of the Stream Chihune. 10 57 30 (20 53)*1* 1854, Mar. 8 + [ The longitude doubtful. ] + Ionga Panza's village. 10 25 0 20 15 0 *2* Mar. 20 + Ford of the River Quango. 9 50 0 (18 27 0) Apr. 5 + Cassange, about 40 or 50 9 37 30 17 49 0 Apr. 13, 17 3 2 + miles W. of the River Quango, + and situated in a deep valley. + Tala Mungongo, 2' E. 9 42 37 (17 27) Jan. 11, 14 + of following station. + [ Longitude not observed: Water boils— + Top of = 206 Deg., height 3151 feet. + Bottom of descent = 208 Deg. = 2097 feet. + Bottom of east ascent = 205 Deg. = 3680 feet. + Top " " " = 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ] + Banks of the Quinze, 9 42 37 17 25 0 1855, Jan. 10 . 1 + near the source, 2' W. of + the sudden descent which + forms the valley of Cassange. + Sanza, on the River Quize 9 37 46 16 59 0 Jan. 7 . 4 + (about 15 yards wide). + Pungo Andongo, 9 42 14 15 30 0 1854, Dec. 11 . 4 + on the River Coanza. + [ On the top of the rocks water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ] + On the River Coanza, 9 47 2 . . . Dec. 22 + 2' W. of Pungo Andongo. + Candumba, 15 miles E. of 9 42 46 . . . 1855, Jan. 2 + Pungo Andongo, 300 yards + N. of the Coanza. + Confluence of the Lombe 9 41 26 . . . Jan. 3 + and Coanza, 8' or 10' E. + of Candumba, and at house + of M. Pires, taken at about + half a mile N. of confluence. + [ Here the Coanza takes its southern bend. ] + Golungo Alto, about midway 9 8 30 14 51 0 1854,|Oct. 27| + between Ambaca and Loanda. |May 14| + "Aguaes doces" in Cassange, 9 15 2 . . . Oct. 6, 7 . 2 + 10' W. of Golungo Alto. + [ At the confluence of the Luinha and Luce. ] + Confluence of the Luinha 9 26 23 . . . + and Lucalla. + Confluence of the Lucalla 9 37 46 . . . Oct. 11, 12 + and Coanza, Massangano + town and fort. + [ A prominent hill in Cazengo, called Zungo, is about 6' + S.S.W. of "Aguaes doces", and it bears N.E. by E. + from the house of the commandant at Massangano. ] + Ambaca, residence of the 9 16 35 15 23 0 Dec. 6 + commandant of the district. + Kalai, 17 51 54 25 41 0 1855, Nov. 18 2 3 + near the Mosioatunya Falls. + Lekone Rivulet. 17 45 6 25 55 0 Nov. 20 4 1 + [ Water boils at 204-1/2 Deg. = 3945 feet. Between Lekone and Kalomo, + Marimba 203-1/4 Deg. = 4608 feet. ] + Kalomo River. (17 3 0) . . . Nov. 30 . 1 + [ The lat. and long. doubtful. Top of ridge, water boils + at 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ] + Rivulet of Dela, 16 56 0 26 45 0 Dec. 2 . 3 + called Mozuma. + Kise Kise Hills. 16 27 20 . . . Dec. 3 + Nakachinto Rivulet. 16 11 24 . . . Dec. 11 + [ On eastern descent from ridge, water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ] + Elephant's Grave. (16 3 0) (28 10) Dec. 14 1 . + [ The latitude not observed. ] + Kenia Hills, Rivulet Losito (15 56 0) (28 1) Dec. 16 3 . + on their western flank. + [ The latitude not observed. ] + 6' E. of Bolengwe Gorge, 15 48 19 28 22 0 Dec. 18 3 3 + and on the banks of the Kafue. + 7' or 8' N.E. or E.N.E. (15 49 0) (28 34) *3* Dec. 29 . 4 + of the confluence of + the Kafue and Zambesi, + at a rivulet called Kambare. + [ The lat. not observed; water boils 205-1/2 Deg. = 3415 feet. + Top of the hills Semalembue, water boils 204-1/2 Deg. = 4078 feet. + Bottom of ditto, 205-3/4 Deg. = 3288 feet. ] + Confluence of Kafue 15 53 0 . . . + and Zambesi. + Banks of Zambesi, 15 50 49 . . . Dec. 30 + 8' or 10' below confluence. + [ Water boils at 209 Deg. = 1571 feet. ] + Village of Ma-Mburuma, 15 36 57 30 22 0 1856, Jan. 12 1 1 + about 10 miles from Zumbo. + Zumbo station, ruins of a 15 37 22 30 32 0 Jan. 13 2 3 + church on the right bank of + the Loangwa, about 300 yards + from confluence with Zambesi. + [ Water boils at 209-1/4 Deg. = 1440 feet. ] + Chilonda's Village, quarter 15 38 34 30 52 0 Jan. 20 3 . + of a mile N. of Zambesi, + near the Kabanka Hill. + Opposite Hill Pinkwe. 15 39 11 (32 5) *4* Feb. 7 . 1 + [ Long. doubtful; the moon's alt. only 4 Deg. ] + Moshua Rivulet. 15 45 33 32 22 0 *5* Feb. 9 1 2 + Tangwe Rivulet, or 16 13 38 32 29 0 Feb. 20 + Sand River, 1/4 mile broad. + Tete or Nyungwe station, 16 9 3 33 28 0 Mar. 2, 17 4 8 + house of commandant. + Hot Spring Makorozi, 15 59 35 . . . Mar. 13 + about 10 m. up the river. + Below Tete, island of 16 34 46 32 51 0 Apr. 23 1 . + Mozambique, on the Zambesi. + Island of Nkuesa. 17 1 6 . . . Apr. 25 + Senna, 300 yards S.W. 17 27 1 34 57 0 *6* |April 27| 2 6 + of the Mud Fort on the bank |May 8, 9| + of the river. + Islet of Shupanga. 17 51 38 . . . May 12 + Small islet in the middle of 17 59 21 . . . May 13 + the Zambesi, and six or eight + miles below Shupanga. + Mazaro or Mutu, 18 3 37 35 57 0 May 14 2 2 + where the Kilimane River + branches off the Zambesi. + Kilimane Village, 17 53 8 36 40 0 *7* June 13, 25, 27 1 6 + at the house of Senor + Galdino Jose Nunes, + colonel of militia. +------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets + South. East. of Lunar + Distances. +------------------------------------------------------------------------------ +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + *1* Probably 20d 25'.—I. A. + *2* Probably 20d 10'.—I. A. + *3* Probably 28d 56'.—I. A. + *4* Probably 31d 46' 30".—I. A. + *5* Probably 31d 56'.—I. A. + *6* Probably 35d 10' 15".—I. A. + *7* Probably 36d 56' 8".—I. A. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE2" id="link2H_APPE2_"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Appendix.—Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, February, + 1858. + </h2> + <p> + [This review is provided to allow the reader to view Livingstone's + achievement as it was seen by a contemporary.—A. L., 1997.] + </p> + <p> + Livingstone's Travels in South Africa.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa'. By + David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L. 1 vol. 8vo. With Maps and + numerous Illustrations. Harper and Brothers. + + 'Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa'. By + Henry Barth, Ph.D., D.C.L. 3 vols. 8vo. With Map and numerous + Illustrations. Harper and Brothers. +</pre> + <p> + These two works, each embodying the results of years of travel and + research, entirely revolutionize all our theories as to the geographical + and physical character of Central Africa. Instead of lofty mountains and + sandy deserts, we have a wide basin, or rather series of basins, with + lakes and great rivers, and a soil fertile even when compared with the + abounding exuberance of our own Western valleys and prairies. + </p> + <p> + Barth, traveling southward from the Mediterranean, explored this region + till within eight degrees of the equator. Livingstone, traveling northward + from the Cape of Good Hope, approached the equator from the south as + nearly as Barth did from the north. He then traversed the whole breadth of + the continent diagonally from the west to the east. His special researches + cover the entire space between the eighth and fifteenth parallels of south + latitude. Between the regions explored by Barth and Livingstone lies an + unexplored tract extending eight degrees on each side of the equator, and + occupying the whole breadth of the continent from east to west. Lieutenant + Burton, famous for his expedition to Mecca and Medina, set out from + Zanzibar a few months since, with the design of traversing this very + region. If he succeeds in his purpose his explorations will fill up the + void between those of Barth and Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Livingstone, with whose travels we are at present specially concerned, + is no ordinary man. The son of a Presbyterian deacon and small trader in + Glasgow; set to work in a cotton factory at ten years old; buying a Latin + grammar with his first earnings; working from six in the morning till + eight at night, then attending evening-school till ten, and pursuing his + studies till midnight; at sixteen a fair classical scholar, with no + inconsiderable reading in books of science and travels, gained, sentence + by sentence, with the book open before him on his spinning-jenny; + botanizing and geologizing on holidays and at spare hours; poring over + books of astrology till he was startled by inward suggestions to sell his + soul to the Evil One as the price of the mysterious knowledge of the + stars; soundly flogged by the good deacon his father by way of imparting + to him a liking for Boston's "Fourfold State" and Wilberforce's "Practical + Christianity"; then convinced by the writings of the worthy Thomas Dick + that there was no hostility between Science and Religion, embracing with + heart and mind the doctrines of evangelical Christianity, and resolving to + devote his life to their extension among the heathen—such are the + leading features of the early life of David Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + He would equip himself for the warfare and afterward fight with the powers + of darkness at his own cost. So at the age of nineteen—a slim, + loose-jointed lad—he commenced the study of medicine and Greek, and + afterward of theology, in the University of Glasgow, attending lectures in + the winter, paying his expenses by working as a cotton-spinner during the + summer, without receiving a farthing of aid from any one. + </p> + <p> + His purpose was to go to China as a medical missionary, and he would have + accomplished his object solely by his own efforts had not some friends + advised him to join the London Missionary Society. He offered himself, + with a half hope that his application would be rejected, for it was not + quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way to become dependent + in a measure upon others. + </p> + <p> + By the time when his medical and theological studies were completed, the + Opium War had rendered it inexpedient to go to China, and his destination + was fixed for Southern Africa. + </p> + <p> + He reached his field of labor in 1840. Having tarried for three months at + the head station at Kuruman, and taken to wife a daughter of the + well-known missionary Mr. Moffat, he pushed still farther into the + country, and attached himself to the band of Sechele, chief of the + Bakwains, or "Alligators", a Bechuana tribe. Here, cutting himself for six + months wholly off from all European society, he gained an insight into the + language, laws, modes of life, and habits of the Bechuanas, which proved + of incalculable advantage in all his subsequent intercourse with them. + </p> + <p> + Sechele gave a ready ear to the missionary's instructions. + </p> + <p> + "Did your forefathers know of a future judgment?" he asked. + </p> + <p> + "They knew of it," replied the missionary, who proceeded to describe the + scenes of the last great day. + </p> + <p> + "You startle me: these words make all my bones to shake; I have no more + strength in me. But my forefathers were living at the same time yours + were; and how is it that they did not send them word about these terrible + things? They all passed away into darkness without knowing whither they + were going." + </p> + <p> + Mr. Moffat had translated the Bible into the Bechuana language, which he + had reduced to writing, and Sechele set himself to learn to read, with so + much assiduity that he began to grow corpulent from lack of his accustomed + exercise. His great favorite was Isaiah. "He was a fine man, that Isaiah; + he knew how to speak," he was wont to say, using the very words applied by + the Glasgow Professor to the Apostle Paul. Having become convinced of the + truth of Christianity, he wished his people also to become Christians. "I + will call them together," he said, "and with our rhinoceros-skin whips we + will soon make them all believe together." Livingstone, mindful, perhaps, + of the ill success of his worthy father in the matter of Wilberforce on + "Practical Christianity", did not favor the proposed line of argument. He + was, in fact, in no great haste to urge Sechele to make a full profession + of faith by receiving the ordinance of baptism; for the chief had, in + accordance with the customs of his people, taken a number of wives, of + whom he must, in this case, put away all except one. The head-wife was a + greasy old jade, who was in the habit of attending church without her + gown, and when her husband sent her home to make her toilet, she would + pout out her thick lips in unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions, + while some of the other wives were the best scholars in the school. After + a while Sechele took the matter into his own hands, sent his supernumerary + wives back to their friends—not empty-handed—and was baptized. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Livingstone's station was in the region since rendered famous by the + hunting exploits of Gordon Cumming. He vouches for the truth of the + wonderful stories told by that redoubtable Nimrod, who visited him during + each of his excursions. He himself, indeed, had an adventure with a lion + quite equal to any thing narrated by Cumming or Andersson, the result of + which was one dead lion, two Bechuanas fearfully wounded, his own arm + marked with eleven distinct teeth-marks, the bone crunched to splinters, + and the formation of a false joint, which marred his shooting ever after. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Livingstone has a republican contempt for the "King of Beasts". He is + nothing better than an overgrown hulking dog, not a match, in fair fight, + for a buffalo. If a traveler encounter him by daylight, he turns tail and + sneaks out of sight like a scared greyhound. All the talk about his + majestic roar is sheer twaddle. It takes a keen ear to distinguish the + voice of the lion from that of the silly ostrich. When he is gorged he + falls asleep, and a couple of natives approach him without fear. One + discharges an arrow, the point of which has been anointed with a subtle + poison, made of the dried entrails of a species of caterpillar, while the + other flings his skin cloak over his head. The beast bolts away + incontinently, but soon dies, howling and biting the ground in agony. In + the dark, or at all hours when breeding, the lion is an ugly enough + customer; but if a man will stay at home by night, and does not go out of + his way to attack him, he runs less risk in Africa of being devoured by a + lion than he does in our cities of being run over by an omnibus—so + says Mr. Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + When the lion grows old he leads a miserable life. Unable to master the + larger game, he prowls about the villages in the hope of picking up a + stray goat. A woman of child venturing out at night does not then come + amiss. When the natives hear of one prowling about the villages, they say, + "His teeth are worn; he will soon kill men," and thereupon turn out to + kill him. This is the only foundation for the common belief that when the + lion has once tasted human flesh he will eat nothing else. A "man-eater" + is always an old lion, who takes to cannibalism to avoid starvation. When + he lives far from human habitations, and so can not get goats or children, + an old lion is often reduced to such straits as to be obliged to live upon + mice, and such small deer. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Livingstone's strictly missionary life among the Bakwains lasted eight + or nine years. The family arose early, and, after prayers and breakfast, + went to the school-room, where men, women, and children were assembled. + School was over at eleven, when the husband set about his work as + gardener, smith, or carpenter, while his wife busied herself with domestic + matters—baking bread, a hollow in a deserted ant-hill serving for an + oven; churning butter in an earthen jar; running candles; making soap from + ashes containing so little alkaline matter that the ley had to be kept + boiling for a month or six weeks before it was strong enough for use. The + wife was maid-of-all-work in doors, while the husband was + Jack-at-all-trades outside. Three several times the tribe removed their + place of residence, and he was so many times compelled to build for + himself a house, every stick and brick of which was put in place by his + own hands. The heat of the day past, and dinner over, the wife betook + herself to the infant and sewing schools, while the husband walked down to + the village to talk with the natives. Three nights in the week, after the + cows had been milked, public meetings were held for instruction in + religious and secular matters. All these multifarious duties were + diversified by attendance upon the sick, and in various ways aiding the + poor and wretched. Being in so many ways helpful to them, and having, + besides, shown from the first that he could knock them up at hard work or + traveling, we can not wonder that Livingstone was popular among the + Bakwains, though conversions seem to have been of the rarest. Indeed, we + are not sure but Sechele's was the only case. + </p> + <p> + A great drought set in the very first year of his residence among them, + which increased year by year. The river ran dry; the canals which he had + induced them to dig for the purpose of irrigating their gardens were + useless; the fish died in such numbers that the congregated hyenas of the + country were unable to devour the putrid masses. The rain-makers tried + their spells in vain. The clouds sometimes gathered promisingly overhead, + but only to roll away without discharging a drop upon the scorched plains. + The people began to suspect some connection between the new religion and + the drought. "We like you," they said, "but we wish you would give up this + everlasting preaching and praying. You see that we never get any rain, + while the tribes who never pray have an abundance." Livingstone could not + deny the fact, and he was sometimes disposed to attribute it to the + malevolence of the "Prince of the Power of the Air", eager to frustrate + the good work. + </p> + <p> + The people behaved wonderfully well, though the scarcity amounted almost + to famine. The women sold their ornaments to buy corn from the more + fortunate tribes around; the children scoured the country for edible + roots; the men betook themselves to hunting. They constructed great traps, + called 'hopos', consisting of two lines of hedges, a mile long, far apart + at the extremities, but converging like the sides of the letter V, with a + deep pit at the narrow end. Then forming a circuit for miles around, they + drove the game—buffaloes, zebras, gnus, antelopes, and the like—into + the mouth of the hopo, and along its narrowing lane, until they plunged + pell-mell in one confused, writhing, struggling mass into the pit, where + they were speared at leisure. + </p> + <p> + The precarious mode of life occasioned by the long drought interfered + sadly with the labors of the mission. Still worse was the conduct of Boers + who had pushed their way into the Bechuana country. Their theory was very + simple: "We are the people of God, and the heathen are given to us for an + inheritance." Of this inheritance they proceeded to make the most. They + compelled the natives to work for them without pay, in consideration of + the privilege of living in "their country". They made regular forays, + carrying off the women and children as slaves. They were cowardly as well + as brutal, compelling friendly tribes to accompany them on their + excursions, putting them in front as a shield, and coolly firing over + their heads, till the enemy fled in despair, leaving their women, + children, and cattle as a prey. + </p> + <p> + So long as fire-arms could be kept from the natives the Boers were sure of + having it all their own way. But traders came in the train of the + missionaries, and sold guns and powder to the Bechuanas. Sechele's tribe + procured no less than five muskets. The Boers were alarmed, and determined + to drive missionaries and traders from the country. + </p> + <p> + In course of time Mr. Livingstone became convinced that Bibles and + preaching were not all that was necessary. Civilization must accompany + Christianization; and commerce was essential to civilization; for + commerce, more speedily than any thing else, would break down the + isolation of the tribes, by making them mutually dependent upon and + serviceable to each other. + </p> + <p> + It was well known that northward, beyond the desert, lay a great lake, in + the midst of a country rich in ivory and other articles of commerce. In + former years, when rains had been more abundant, the natives had + frequently crossed this desert; and somewhere near the lake dwelt a famous + chief, named Sebituane, who had once lived on friendly terms in the + neighborhood of Sechele, who was anxious to renew the old acquaintance. + Mr. Livingstone determined to open intercourse with this region, in spite + of the threats and opposition of the Boers. + </p> + <p> + So the missionary became a traveler and explorer. While laying his plans + and gathering information, the opportune arrival of Messrs. Oswell and + Murray, two wealthy Englishmen who had become enamored with African + hunting, enabled him to undertake the proposed expedition, Mr. Oswell + agreeing to pay the guides, who were furnished by Sechele. + </p> + <p> + This expedition, which resulted in the discovery of Lake Ngami, set out + from the missionary station at Kolobeng on the 1st of June, 1849. The way + lay across the great Kalahari desert, seven hundred miles in breadth. This + is a singular region. Though it has no running streams, and few and scanty + wells, it abounds in animal and vegetable life. Men, animals, and plants + accommodate themselves singularly to the scarcity of water. Grass is + abundant, growing in tufts; bulbous plants abound, among which are the + 'leroshua', which sends up a slender stalk not larger than a crow quill, + with a tuber, a foot or more below the surface, as large as a child's + head, consisting of a mass of cellular tissue filled with a cool and + refreshing fluid; and the 'mokuri', which deposits under ground, within a + circle of a yard from its stem, a mass of tubers of the size of a man's + head. During years when the rains are unusually abundant, the Kalahari is + covered with the 'kengwe', a species of water-melon. Animals and men + rejoice in the rich supply; antelopes, lions, hyenas, jackals, mice, and + men devour it with equal avidity. + </p> + <p> + The people of the desert conceal their wells with jealous care. They fill + them with sand, and place their dwellings at a distance, that their + proximity may not betray the precious secret. The women repair to the + wells with a score or so of ostrich shells in a bag slung over their + shoulders. Digging down an arm's-length, they insert a hollow reed, with a + bunch of grass tied to the end, then ram the sand firmly around the tube. + The water slowly filters into the bunch of grass, and is sucked up through + the reed, and squirted mouthful by mouthful into the shells. When all are + filled, the women gather up their load and trudge homeward. + </p> + <p> + Elands, springbucks, koodoos, and ostriches somehow seem to get along very + well without any moisture, except that contained in the grass which they + eat. They appear to live for months without drinking; but whenever + rhinoceroses, buffaloes, or gnus are seen, it is held to be certain proof + that water exists within a few miles. + </p> + <p> + The passage of the Kalahari was effected, not without considerable + difficulty, in two months, the expedition reaching Lake Ngami on the 1st + of August. As they approached it, they came upon a considerable river. + </p> + <p> + "Whence does this come?" asked Livingstone. + </p> + <p> + "From a country full of rivers," was the reply; "so many that no man can + tell their number, and full of large trees." + </p> + <p> + This was the first actual confirmation of the report of the Bakwains that + the country beyond was not the large "sandy plateau" of geographers. The + prospect of a highway capable of being traversed by boats to an unexplored + fertile region so filled the mind of Livingstone that, when he came to the + lake, this discovery seemed of comparatively little importance. To us, + indeed, whose ideas of a lake are formed from Superior and Huron, the + Ngami seems but an insignificant affair. Its circumference may be seventy + or a hundred miles, and its mean depth is but a few feet. It lies two + thousand feet above the level of the sea, and as much below the southern + border of the Kalahari, which slopes gradually toward the interior. + </p> + <p> + Their desire to visit Sebituane, whose residence was considerably farther + in the interior, was frustrated by the jealousy of Lechulatebe, a chief + near the lake, and the expedition returned to the station at Kolobeng. The + attempt was renewed the following year. Mrs. Livingstone, their three + children, and Sechele accompanied him. The lake was reached. Lechulatebe, + propitiated by the present of a valuable gun, agreed to furnish guides to + Sebituane's country; but the children and servants fell ill, and the + attempt was for the time abandoned. + </p> + <p> + A third expedition was successful, although the whole party came near + perishing for want of water, and their cattle, which had been bitten by + the 'Tsetse', died. + </p> + <p> + This insect—the 'Glossina moritans' of the naturalists—deserves + a special paragraph. It is a brown insect about as large as our common + house-fly, with three or four yellow bars across its hinder part. A + lively, buzzing, harmless-looking fellow is the tsetse. Its bite produces + a slight itching similar to that caused by the mosquito, and in the case + of men and some species of animals no further ill effects follow. But woe + to the horse, the ox, and the dog, when once bitten by the tsetse. No + immediate harm appears; the animal is not startled as by the gad-fly; but + in a few days the eyes and the nose begin to run; the jaws and navel + swell; the animal grazes for a while as usual, but grows emaciated and + weak, and dies, it may be, weeks or months after. When dissected, the + cellular tissue seems injected with air, the fat is green and oily, the + muscles are flabby, the heart is so soft that the finger may be pushed + through it. The antelope and buffalo, the zebra and goat, are not affected + by its bite; while to the ox, the horse, and the dog it is certain death. + The mule and donkey are not troubled by it, nor are sucking calves, while + dogs, though fed upon milk, perish. Such different effects produced upon + animals whose nature is similar, constitute one of the most curious + phenomena in natural history. + </p> + <p> + Sebituane, who had heard of the approach of his visitors, came more than a + hundred miles to meet them. He was a tall, wiry, coffee-and-milk colored + man, of five-and-forty. His original home was a thousand miles to the + south, in the Bakwain country, whence he had been driven by the Griquas a + quarter of a century before. He fled northward, fighting his way, + sometimes reduced to the utmost straits, but still keeping his people + together. At length he crossed the desert, and conquered the country + around Lake Ngami; then having heard of white men living on the west + coast, he passed southwestward into the desert, hoping to be able to open + intercourse with them. There suffering from the thirst, he came to a small + well; the water was not sufficient for his men and his cattle; one or the + other must perish; he ordered the men to drink, for if they survived they + could fight for more cattle. In the morning his cattle were all gone, and + he returned to the north. Here a long course of warfare awaited him, but + in the end he triumphed over his enemies, and established himself for a + time on the great river Zambesi. Haunted with a longing for intercourse + with the whites, he proposed to descend the river to the eastern coast. He + was dissuaded from this purpose by the warnings of a native prophet. "The + gods say, Go not thither!" he cried; then turning to the west, "I see a + city and a nation of black men—men of the water; their cattle are + red; thine own tribe are perishing, and will all be consumed; thou wilt + govern black men, and when thy warriors have captured the red cattle, let + not their owners be killed; they are thy future tribe; let them be spared + to cause thee to build." So Sebituane went westward, conquered the blacks + of an immense region, spared the lives of the men, and made them his + subjects, ruling them gently. His original people are called the Makololo; + the subject tribes are styled Makalaka. + </p> + <p> + Sebituane, though the greatest warrior in the south, always leading his + men to battle in person, was still anxious for peace. He had heard of + cannon, and had somehow acquired the idea that if he could only procure + one he might live in quiet. He received his visitors with much favor. + "Your cattle have all been bitten by the tsetse," he said, "and will die; + but never mind, I will give you as many as you want." He offered to + conduct them through his country that they might choose a site for a + missionary station. But at this moment he fell ill of an inflammation of + the lungs, from which he soon died. + </p> + <p> + "He was," writes Mr. Livingstone, "the best specimen of a native chief I + ever met; and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the + world of which he had just heard when he was called away, and to realize + somewhat of the feeling of those who pray for the dead. The deep, dark + question of what is to become of such as he must be left where we find it, + believing that assuredly the Judge of all the earth will do right." + </p> + <p> + Although he had sons, Sebituane left the chieftainship to his daughter + Mamochisane, who confirmed her father's permission that the missionaries + might visit her country. They proceeded a hundred and thirty miles + farther, and were rewarded by the discovery of the great river Zambesi, + the very existence of which, in Central Africa, had never been suspected. + It was the dry season, and the river was at its lowest; but it was from + three to six hundred yards broad, flowing with a deep current toward the + east. + </p> + <p> + A grander idea than the mere founding of a missionary station now + developed itself in the mind of Mr. Livingstone. European goods had just + begun to be introduced into this region from the Portuguese settlements on + the coast; at present slaves were the only commodity received in payment + for them. Livingstone thought if a great highway could be opened, ivory, + and the other products of the country, might be bartered for these goods, + and the traffic in slaves would come to an end. + </p> + <p> + He therefore resolved to take his family to Cape Town, and thence send + them to England, while he returned alone to the interior, with the purpose + of making his way either to the east or the west coast. + </p> + <p> + He reached the Cape in April, 1852, being the first time during eleven + years that he had visited the scenes of civilization, and placed his + family on board a ship bound for England, promising to rejoin them in two + years. + </p> + <p> + In June he set out from Cape Town upon that long journey which was to + occupy five years. When he approached the missionary stations in the + interior, he learned that the long-threatened attack by the Boers had + taken place. A letter from Sechele to Mr. Moffat told the story. Thus it + ran: + </p> + <p> + "Friend of my heart's love and of all the confidence of my heart, I am + Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who attacked me, though I had no guilt + with them. They demanded that I should be in their kingdom, and I refused. + They demanded that I should prevent the English and Griquas from passing. + I replied, These are my friends, and I can not prevent them. They came on + Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on Sunday, and they assented. + They began on Monday morning at twilight, and fired with all their might, + and burned the town with fire, and scattered us. They killed sixty of my + people, and captured women, and children, and men. They took all the + cattle and all the goods of the Bakwains; and the house of Livingstone + they plundered, taking away all his goods. Of the Boers we killed + twenty-eight." + </p> + <p> + Two hundred children, who had been gathered into schools, were carried + away as slaves. Mr. Livingstone's library was wantonly destroyed, not + carried away; his stock of medicines was smashed, and his furniture and + clothing sold at auction to defray the expenses of the foray. Mr. + Pretorius, the leader of the marauding party, died not long after, and an + obituary notice of him was published, ending with the words, "Blessed are + the dead who die in the Lord." + </p> + <p> + Leaving his desolate home, Livingstone proceeded on his journey. On the + way he met Sechele, who was going, he said, to see the Queen of England. + Livingstone tried to dissuade him. + </p> + <p> + "Will not the Queen listen to me?" asked the chief. + </p> + <p> + "I believe she would listen, but the difficulty is to get to her." + </p> + <p> + "Well, I shall reach her." + </p> + <p> + And so they parted. Sechele actually made his way to the Cape, a distance + of a thousand miles, but could get no farther, and returned to his own + country. The remnants of the tribes who had formerly lived among the Boers + gathered around him, and he is now more powerful than ever. + </p> + <p> + It is slow traveling in Africa. Livingstone was almost a year in + accomplishing the 1500 miles between Cape Town and the country of the + Makololo. He found that Mamochisane, the daughter of Sebituane, had + voluntarily resigned the chieftainship to her younger brother, Sekeletu. + She wished to be married, she said, and have a family like other women. + The young chief Sekeletu was very friendly, but showed no disposition to + become a convert. He refused to learn to read the Bible, for fear it might + change his heart, and make him content with only one wife, like Sechele. + For his part he wanted at least five. + </p> + <p> + Some months were passed in this country, which is described as fertile and + well-cultivated—producing millet, maize, yams, sweet potatoes, + cassava, beans, pumpkins, water-melons, and the like. The sugar-cane grows + plentifully, but the people had never learned the process of making sugar. + They have great numbers of cattle, and game of various species abounds. On + one occasion a troop of eighty-one buffaloes defiled slowly before their + evening fire, while herds of splendid elands stood, without fear, at two + hundred yards' distance. The country is rather unhealthy, from the mass of + decayed vegetation exposed to the torrid sun. + </p> + <p> + After due consideration, Livingstone resolved to make his way to Loanda, a + Portuguese settlement on the western coast. Sekeletu, anxious to open a + trade with the coast, appointed twenty-seven men to accompany the + traveler; and on the 11th of November, 1853, he set out on his journey. + </p> + <p> + Three or four small boxes contained all the baggage of the party. The only + provisions were a few pounds of biscuits, coffee, tea, and sugar; their + main reliance being upon the game which they expected to kill, and, this + failing, upon the proceeds of about ten dollars' worth of beads. They also + took with them a few elephants' tusks, which Sekeletu sent by way of a + trading venture. + </p> + <p> + The river up which they paddled abounds in hippopotami. These are in + general harmless, though now and then a solitary old bull who has been + expelled from the herd vents his spleen by pitching into every canoe that + passes. Once their canoe was attacked by a female whose calf had been + speared, and nearly overturned. The female carries her young upon her + back, its little round head first appearing above the surface when she + comes up to breathe. + </p> + <p> + By the order of the chief the party had been furnished with eight oxen for + riding, and seven intended for slaughter. Some of the troop paddled the + canoes, while others drove the cattle along the bank. + </p> + <p> + African etiquette requires that a company of travelers, when they come in + sight of a village, shall seat themselves under a tree, and send forward a + messenger to announce their arrival and state their object. The chief then + gives them a ceremonious reception, with abundance of speech-making and + drumming. It is no easy matter to get away from these villages, for the + chiefs esteem it an honor to have strangers with them. These delays, and + the frequent heavy rains, greatly retarded the progress of the travelers. + </p> + <p> + They had traveled four months, and accomplished half of their journey + before encountering any show of hostility from the tribes through which + they passed. A chief, named Njambi, then demanded tribute for passing + through his country; when this was refused he said that one of + Livingstone's men had spit on the leg of one of his people, and this crime + must be paid for by a fine of a man, an ox, or a gun. This reasonable + demand was likewise refused, and the natives seemed about to commence + hostilities; but changed their minds upon witnessing the determined + attitude of the strangers. Livingstone at last yielded to the entreaties + of his men and gave them an ox, upon the promise that food should be sent + in exchange. The niggardly chief sent them only a small bag of meal, and + two or three pounds of the meat of their own ox. + </p> + <p> + From this time they were subject to frequent attempts at extortion. The + last of these was made on the banks of the River Quango, the boundary of + the Portuguese possessions. A Bashinje chief, whose portrait is given by + Mr. Livingstone, made the usual demand of a man, a gun, or an ox, + otherwise they must return the way they came. While negotiations were in + progress the opportune arrival of a Portuguese sergeant freed the + travelers from their troubles. The river was crossed, and once on + Portuguese territory their difficulties were over. + </p> + <p> + At Cassange, the frontier settlement, they sold Sekeletu's ivory. The + Makololo, who had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun, were + delighted at the prices they obtained. For one tusk they got two muskets, + three kegs of powder, large bunches of beads, and calico and baize enough + to clothe all the party. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st of May, after more than six months' travel, Livingstone and + his companions reached the Portuguese sea-port of Loanda. The Makololo + were lost in wonder when they first caught sight of the sea. "We marched + along," they said, "believing that what the ancients had told us was true, + that the world has no end; but all at once the world said to us, I am + finished, there is no more of me." Still greater was their wonder when + they beheld the large stone houses of the town. "These are not huts," they + said, "but mountains with caves in them." Livingstone had in vain tried to + make them comprehend a house of two stories. They knew of no dwellings + except their own conical huts, made of poles stuck into the ground, and + could not conceive how one hut could be built on the top of another, or + how people could live in the upper story, with the pointed roof of the + lower one sticking up in the middle of the floor. The vessels in the + harbor were, they said, not canoes, but towns, into which one must climb + by a rope. + </p> + <p> + At Loanda Livingstone was attacked by a fever, which reduced him to a + skeleton, and for a while rendered him unable to attend to his companions. + But they managed very well alone. Some went to the forest, cut firewood, + and brought it to town for sale; others unloaded a coal-vessel in the + harbor, at the magnificent wages of a sixpence a day. The proceeds of + their labor were shrewdly invested in cloth and beads which they would + take home with them in confirmation of the astounding stories they would + have to tell; "for," said they, "in coming to the white man's country, we + have accomplished what no other people in the world could have done; we + are the true ancients, who can tell wonderful things." + </p> + <p> + The two years, at the close of which Livingstone had promised to rejoin + his family, had almost expired, and he was offered a passage home from + Loanda. But the great object of his expedition was only partially + attained. Though he had reached the west coast in safety, he had found + that the forests, swamps, and rivers must render a wagon-road from the + interior impracticable. He feared also that his native attendants would + not be able to make their way alone back to their own country, through the + unfriendly tribes. So he resolved, feeble as he was, to return to + Sekeletu's dominions, and thence proceed to the eastern coast. + </p> + <p> + In September he started on his return journey, bearing considerable + presents for Sekeletu from the Portuguese, who were naturally anxious to + open a trade with the rich ivory region of the interior. The Board of + Public Works sent a colonel's uniform and a horse, which unfortunately + died on the way. The merchants contributed specimens of all their articles + of trade, and a couple of donkeys, which would have a special value on + account of their immunity from the bite of the tsetse. The men were made + happy by the acquisition of a suit of European clothes and a gun apiece, + in addition to their own purchases. + </p> + <p> + In the Bashinje country he again encountered hostile demonstrations. One + chief, who came riding into the camp upon the shoulders of an attendant, + was especially annoying in his demands for tribute. Another, who had + quarreled with one of Livingstone's attendants, waylaid and fired upon the + party. Livingstone, who was ill of a fever, staggered up to the chief, + revolver in hand. The sight of the six mouths of that convenient implement + gaping at his breast wrought an instant revolution in his martial ideas; + he fell into a fit of trembling, protesting that he had just come to have + a quiet talk, and wanted only peace. + </p> + <p> + These Bashinje have more of the low negro character and physiognomy than + any tribe encountered by Livingstone. Their color is a dirty black; they + have low foreheads and flat noses, artificially enlarged by sticks run + through the septum, and file their teeth down to a point. A little further + to the south the complexion of the natives is much lighter, and their + features are strikingly like those depicted upon the Egyptian monuments, + the resemblance being still further increased by some of their modes of + wearing the hair. Livingstone indeed affirms that the Egyptian paintings + and sculptures present the best type of the general physiognomy of the + central tribes. + </p> + <p> + The return journey was still slower than the advance had been; and it was + not till late in the summer of 1855 that they reached the villages of the + Makololo, having been absent more than eighteen months. They were received + as men risen from the dead, for the diviners had declared that they had + perished long ago. The returned adventurers were the lions of the day. + They strutted around in their gay European suits, with their guns over + their shoulders, to the abounding admiration of the women and children, + calling themselves Livingstone's "braves", who had gone over the whole + world, turning back only when there was no more land. To be sure they + returned about as poor as they went, for their gun and their one suit of + red and white cotton were all that they had saved, every thing else having + been expended during their long journey. "But never mind," they said; "we + have not gone in vain, you have opened a path for us." + </p> + <p> + There was one serious drawback from their happiness. Some of their wives, + like those of the companions of Ulysses of old, wearied by their long + absence, had married other husbands. They took this misfortune much to + heart. "Wives," said one of the bereaved husbands, "are as plenty as grass—I + can get another; but," he added bitterly, "if I had that fellow I would + slit his ears for him." Livingstone did the best he could for them. He + induced the chiefs to compel the men who had taken the only wife of any + one to give her up to her former husband. Those—and they were the + majority—who had still a number left, he consoled by telling them + that they had quite as many as was good for them—more than he + himself had. So, undeterred by this single untoward result of their + experiment, the adventurers one and all set about gathering ivory for + another adventure to the west. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone had satisfied himself that the great River Leeambye, up which + he had paddled so many miles on his way to the west, was identical with + the Zambesi, which he had discovered four years previously. The two names + are indeed the same, both meaning simply "The River", in different + dialects spoken on its banks. This great river is an object of wonder to + the natives. They have a song which runs, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The Leeambye! Nobody knows + Whence it comes, and whither it goes." +</pre> + <p> + Livingstone had pursued it far up toward its source, and knew whence it + came; and now he resolved to follow it down to the sea, trusting that it + would furnish a water communication into the very heart of the continent. + </p> + <p> + It was now October—the close of the hot season. The thermometer + stood at 100 Deg. in the shade; in the sun it sometimes rose to 130 Deg. + During the day the people kept close in their huts, guzzling a kind of + beer called 'boyola', and seeming to enjoy the copious perspiration which + it induces. As evening set in the dance began, which was kept up in the + moonlight till long after midnight. Sekeletu, proud of his new uniform, + and pleased with the prospect of trade which had been opened, entertained + Livingstone hospitably, and promised to fit him out for his eastern + journey as soon as the rains had commenced, and somewhat cooled the + burning soil. + </p> + <p> + He set out early in November, the chief with a large body of retainers + accompanying him as far as the Falls of Mosioatunye, the most remarkable + piece of natural scenery in all Africa, which no European had ever seen or + heard of. The Zambesi, here a thousand yards broad, seems all at once to + lose itself in the earth. It tumbles into a fissure in the hard basaltic + rock, running at a right-angle with the course of the stream, and + prolonged for thirty miles through the hills. This fissure, hardly eighty + feet broad, with sides perfectly perpendicular, is fully a hundred feet in + depth down to the surface of the water, which shows like a white thread at + its bottom. The noise made by the descent of such a mass of water into + this seething abyss is heard for miles, and five distinct columns of vapor + rise like pillars of smoke to an enormous height. Hence the Makololo name + for the cataract, 'Mosi oa tunye'—"Smoke sounds there!"—for + which Livingstone, with questionable taste, proposes to substitute the + name of "Victoria Falls"—a change which we trust the world will not + sanction. + </p> + <p> + From these falls the country gradually ascends toward the east, the river + finding its way by this deep fissure through the hills. Every thing shows + that this whole region, for hundreds of miles, was once the bed of an + immense fresh-water lake. By some convulsion of nature, occurring at a + period geologically recent, this fissure was formed, and through it the + lake was drained, with the exception of its deepest part, which + constitutes the present Lake Ngami. Similar indications exist of the + former existence of other immense bodies of water, which have in like + manner been drained by fissures through the surrounding elevations, + leaving shallow lakes at the lowest points. Such are, undoubtedly, Tsad at + the north, Ngami at the south, Dilolo at the west, and Taganyika and + Nyanja, of which we have only vague reports, at the east. This great lake + region of former days seems to have extended 2500 miles from north to + south, with an average breadth, from east to west, of 600 or 700 miles. + </p> + <p> + The true theory of the African continent is, that it consists of a + well-watered trough, surrounded on all sides by an elevated rim, composed + in part of mountain ranges, and in part of high sandy deserts. + Livingstone, who had wrought out this theory from his own personal + observations, was almost disappointed when, on returning to England, he + found that the same theory had been announced on purely geological grounds + by Sir Roderick Murchison, the same philosopher who had averred that gold + must exist in Australia, long before the first diggings had been + discovered there. + </p> + <p> + Sekeletu had commissioned Livingstone, when he reached his own country, to + purchase for him a sugar-mill, a good rifle, different kinds of clothing, + brass wire, beads, and, in a word, "any other beautiful thing he might + see," furnishing him with a considerable quantity of ivory to pay for + them. Their way lay through the country of the Batoka, a fierce tribe who + had a few years before attempted "to eat up" Sebituane, with ill success, + for he dispersed them and took away their cattle. Their country, once + populous, is now almost desolate. At one of their ruined villages + Livingstone saw five-and-forty human skulls bleaching upon stakes stuck in + the ground. In the old times the chiefs used to vie with each other as to + whose village should be ornamented with the greatest number of these + ghastly trophies; and a skull was the most acceptable present from any one + who wished to curry favor with a chief. The Batoka have an odd custom of + knocking out the front teeth from the upper jaw. The lower ones, relieved + from the attrition and pressure of the upper, grow long and protruding, + forcing the lower lip out in a hideous manner. They say that they wish + their mouths to be like those of oxen, and not like those of zebras. No + young Batoka female can lay any claim to being a belle until she has thus + acquired an "ox-mouth". "Look at the great teeth!" is the disparaging + criticism made upon those who neglect to remove their incisors. The women + wear a little clothing, but the men disdain even the paradisiacal + fig-leaf, and go about in a state of absolute nudity. Livingstone told + them that he should come back some day with his family, when none of them + must come near without at least putting on a bunch of grass. They thought + it a capital joke. Their mode of salutation is to fling themselves flat on + their backs, and roll from side to side, slapping the outside of their + naked thighs. + </p> + <p> + The country abounds with game. Buffaloes and zebras by the hundred grazed + on the open spaces. At one time their procession was interrupted by three + buffaloes who came dashing through their ranks. Livingstone's ox set off + at a furious gallop. Looking back, he saw one of his men flung up into the + air by a toss from one of the beasts, who had carried him on his horns for + twenty yards before giving the final pitch. The fellow came down flat on + his face, but the skin was not pierced, and no bone was broken. His + comrades gave him a brisk shampooing, and in a week he was as well as + ever. + </p> + <p> + The border country passed, the natives grew more friendly, and gladly + supplied all the wants of the travelers. About the middle of December, + when their journey was half over, they came upon the first traces of + Europeans—a deserted town, a ruined church, and a broken bell + inscribed with a cross and the letters I. H. S., but bearing no date. A + few days after they met a man wearing a hat and jacket. He had come from + the Portuguese settlement of Tete, far down the river. From him they + learned that a war was going on below, between the Portuguese and the + natives. A chief, named Mpende, showed signs of hostility. Livingstone's + men, who had become worn and ragged by their long journey, rejoiced at the + prospect of a fight. "Now," said they, "we shall get corn and clothes in + plenty. You have seen us with elephants, but you don't know what we can do + with men." After a while two old men made their appearance, to find out + who the strangers were. "I am a Lekoa (Englishman)," said Livingstone. "We + don't know that tribe," they replied; "we suppose you are a Mozunga + (Portuguese)." Upon Livingstone's showing them his long hair and the white + skin of his bosom they exclaimed, "We never saw so white a skin as that. + You must be one of that tribe that loves the black men." Livingstone + eagerly assured him that such was the case. Sekwebu, the leader of his + men, put in a word: "Ah, if you only knew him as well as we do, who have + lived with him, you would know how highly he values your friendship; and + as he is a stranger he trusts in you to direct him." The chief, convinced + that he was an Englishman, received the party hospitably and forwarded + them on their way. + </p> + <p> + The frequent appearance of English goods showed that they were approaching + the coast, and not long afterward Livingstone met a couple of native + traders, from whom, for two small tusks, he bought a quantity of American + cotton marked "Lawrence Mills, Lowell", which he distributed among his + men. + </p> + <p> + For another month they traveled slowly on through a fertile country, + abounding in animal life, bagging an elephant or a buffalo when short of + meat. Lions are numerous, but the natives, believing that the souls of + their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these animals, into which they also + have the power, when living, of transforming themselves at will, never + kill them. When they meet a lion they salute him by clapping their hands—a + courtesy which his Highness frequently returns by making a meal of them. + </p> + <p> + In this region the women are decidedly in the ascendant. The bridegroom is + obliged to come to the village of the bride to live. Here he must perform + certain services for his mother-in-law, such as keeping her always + supplied with fire-wood. Above all things, he must always, when in her + presence, sit with his legs bent under him, it being considered a mark of + disrespect to present his feet toward her. If he wishes to leave the + village, he must not take his children with him; they belong to his wife, + or, rather, to her family. He can, however, by the payment of a certain + number of cattle, "buy up" his wife and children. When a man is desired to + perform any service he always asks his wife's consent; if she refuses, no + amount of bribery or coaxing will induce him to disobey her. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of March 2, Livingstone, tired and hungry, came within + eight miles of the Portuguese settlement of Tete. He sent forward the + letters of recommendation which he had received from the Portuguese on the + other side of the continent. Before daylight the following morning he was + aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers, who brought the + materials for a civilized breakfast—the first of which he had + partaken since he left Loanda, eighteen months before. "It was," he says, + "the most refreshing breakfast of which I ever partook." + </p> + <p> + Tete stands on the Zambesi, three hundred miles from its mouth. The + commandant received Livingstone kindly, supplied his men with provisions + for immediate use, gave them land upon which to raise future supplies, and + granted them permission to hunt elephants in the neighborhood on their own + account. Before long they had established a brisk trade in fire-wood, as + their countrymen had done at Loanda. They certainly manifested none of the + laziness which has been said to be characteristic of the African races. + Thirty elephant tusks remained of those forwarded by Sekeletu. Ten of + these were sold for cotton cloth for the men. The others were deposited + with the authorities, with directions that in case Livingstone should + never return they should be sold, and the proceeds given to the men. He + told them that death alone should prevent him from coming back. "Nay, + father," said the men, "you will not die; you will return, and take us + back to Sekeletu." + </p> + <p> + He remained at Tete a month, waiting for the close of the sickly season in + the low delta at the mouths of the river, and then descended to the + Portuguese town of Kilimane. Here he remained six weeks, when an English + vessel arrived with supplies and money for him. Two of his attendants only + had come down the river. They begged hard to be allowed to accompany him + to England. In vain Livingstone told them that they would die if they went + to so cold a country. "That is nothing," said one; "let me die at your + feet." He at last decided to take with him Sekwebu, the leader of the + party, to whose good sense, bravery, and tact he owed much of his success. + The sea-waves rose high, as the boat conveyed them to the ship. Sekwebu, + who had never seen a larger body of water than the shallow Lake Ngami, was + terrified. + </p> + <p> + "Is this the way you go?" he inquired. + </p> + <p> + "Yes; don't you see it is?" replied Livingstone, encouragingly. + </p> + <p> + When Livingstone reached his countrymen on the ship he could scarcely + speak his native language; the words would not come at his call. He had + spoken it but little for thirteen years; and for three and a half, except + for a short time at Loanda, not at all. + </p> + <p> + Sekwebu became a great favorite on shipboard, but he was bewildered by the + crowd of new ideas that rushed upon his mind. "What a strange country this + is," he said, "all water!" When they reached Mauritius, he became insane, + and tried to jump overboard. Livingstone's wife had, during her visit to + their country, become a great favorite with the Makololo, who called her + 'Ma Robert'—"Robert's Mother"—in honor of her young son. + </p> + <p> + "Come, Sekwebu," said Livingstone, "we are going to Ma Robert." This + struck a chord in his bosom. + </p> + <p> + "Oh yes," said he; "where is she? Where is Robert?" And for the moment he + seemed to recover. + </p> + <p> + But in the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred. He attempted to + spear one of the crew, and then leaped overboard, and, though he could + swim well, pulled himself down, hand over hand, by the cable. His body was + never recovered. + </p> + <p> + From Mauritius Livingstone sailed for England, which he reached on the + 12th of December, 1856—four and a half years after he had parted + from his family at Cape Town. + </p> + <p> + He was received with unwonted honors. The President of the Royal + Geographical Society, at a special meeting held to welcome him, formally + invited him to give to the world a narrative of his travels. Some knavish + booksellers paid him the less acceptable compliment of putting forth + spurious accounts of his adventures, one at least of which has been + republished in this country. Livingstone, so long accustomed to a life of + action, found the preparation of his book a harder task than he had + imagined. "I think," he says, "that I would rather cross the African + continent again than undertake to write another book." We trust that he + will yet do both. He would indeed have set out on another African journey + nearly a year ago to conduct his faithful Makololo attendants back to + their own country, had not the King of Portugal relieved him from all + anxiety on their account, by sending out directions that they should be + supported at Tete until his return. + </p> + <p> + Our abstract does, at best, but scanty justice to the most interesting, as + well as most valuable, of modern works of travel. It has revolutionized + our ideas of African character as well as of African geography. It shows + that Central Africa is peopled by tribes barbarous, indeed, but far from + manifesting those savage and degrading traits which we are wont to + associate with the negro race. In all his long pilgrimage Livingstone saw + scarcely a trace of the brutal rites and bloody superstitions of Dahomey + and Ashanti. The natives every where long for intercourse with the whites, + and eagerly seek the products of civilized labor. In regions where no + white men had ever been seen the cottons of Lowell and Manchester, passed + from tribe to tribe, are even now the standard currency. Civilized nations + have an equal interest in opening intercourse with these countries, for + they are capable of supplying those great tropical staples which the + industrious temperate zones must have, but can not produce. Livingstone + found cotton growing wild all along his route from Loanda to Kilimane; the + sugar-cane flourishes spontaneously in the valley of "The River"; coffee + abounds on the west coast; and indigo is a weed in the delta of the + Zambesi. Barth also finds these products abundant on the banks of the + Benuwe and Shari, and around Lake Tsad. The prevalent idea of the inherent + laziness of the Africans must be abandoned, for, scattered through the + narratives of both these intrepid explorers are abundant testimonies of + the industrious disposition of the natives. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone, as befits his profession, regards his discoveries from a + religious stand-point. "The end of the geographical feat," he says, "is + the beginning of the missionary enterprise." But he is a philosopher as + well as a preacher, recognizing as true missionaries the man of science + who searches after hidden truths, the soldier who fights against tyranny, + the sailor who puts down the slave-trade, and the merchant who teaches + practically the mutual dependence of the nations of the earth. His idea of + missionary labor looks to this world as well as the next. Had the Bakwains + possessed rifles as well as Bibles—had they raised cotton as well as + attended prayer-meetings—it would have been better for them. He is + clearly of the opinion that decent clothing is of more immediate use to + the heathen than doctrinal sermons. "We ought," he says, "to encourage the + Africans to cultivate for our markets, as the most effectual means, next + to the Gospel, of their elevation." His practical turn of mind suffers him + to present no fancy pictures of barbarous nations longing for the Gospel. + His Makololo friends, indeed, listened respectfully when he discoursed of + the Saviour, but were all earnestness when he spoke of cotton cloths and + muskets. Sekeletu favored the missionary, not as the man who could give + him Bibles and tracts, but as the one by whose help he hoped to sell his + ivory for a rifle, a sugar-mill, and brass wire. + </p> + <p> + Livingstone's missionary scheme is accommodated to the actual state of + things. It rests quite as much upon traders as preachers. He would open a + communication by the Zambesi to the heart of the continent. Upon the + healthy, elevated region overlooking the low, fertile basin he would + establish trading posts, supplied with European wares. We can not wonder + that the directors of the Missionary Society looked coldly upon this + scheme, and wrote to him that they were "restricted in their power of + aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the Gospel;" nor + can we regret that Livingstone, feeling his old love of independence + revive, withdrew from his connection with the Society, for the purpose of + carrying out his own plans. With all respect for the worthy persons who + manage missionary societies, we can not but believe that the man who led + so large a party across the African continent will accomplish more for the + good cause when working out his own plans than he would do by following + out their ideas. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE3" id="link2H_APPE3__"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Appendix.—Notes to etext. + </h2> + <p> + Words: + </p> + <p> + The names Loanda and Zambesi are given in most modern texts as Luanda and + Zambezi. + </p> + <p> + In three cases, the spelling used in the original was distracting enough + that it has been changed: musquito > mosquito, hachshish > hashish, and + nomade > nomad. + </p> + <p> + In three other cases, two variant spellings of a word were used in the + text. These were made uniform in accordance with the modern standard. They + were: water-buck > waterbuck, Mosambique > Mozambique, and imbody > + embody. + </p> + <p> + Other notes on terms: Livingstone often refers to ground-nuts—this + is the British term for a peanut. Mutokwane ('Cannabis sativa') must be + some variety of marijuana. + </p> + <p> + Symbols: + </p> + <p> + As the symbols for the British Pound (a crossed L), Degrees (small circle, + in the upper half of the line of text), and fractions cannot be + represented in ASCII, the following standards have been used: + </p> + <p> + Pounds: written out, and capitalized, AFTER the number of pounds, rather + than before it. Hence "L20" becomes 20 Pounds. (where L represents the + Pound symbol.) + </p> + <p> + Degrees, Minutes, Seconds: "Degrees", when used alone, is either spelled + out or abbreviated "Deg."—but is always capitalized where it + replaces the symbol. When a location is given with a combination of + degrees and minutes, or degrees, minutes, and seconds, [d] is used to + denote the symbol for degrees, ['] represents minutes, and ["] represents + seconds—these latter two are the common symbols, or at least as + similar as ASCII can represent. For an example, lat. 9d 37' 30" S. would + be latitude 9 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds south. All temperatures given + are in Fahrenheit. + </p> + <p> + Fractions: Where whole numbers and fractions are combined, the whole + number is separated from the fraction with a dash. For example, in Chapter + 21: 16 ounces and 2-19/20 drams would translate as 16 ounces and + two-and-nineteen-twentieths drams. Incidentally, Livingstone uses British + measurements, which sometimes differ from the American. + </p> + <p> + Corrected Errors: + </p> + <p> + Errors in the original text were corrected when the context presented + compelling evidence that there was in fact an error. When possible, proper + names were checked against the index for extra surety. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + Chapter 2, "All around Scroti the country is perfectly flat" changed to + "All around Serotli". + + Chapter 2, "one species of plants" changed to "one species of plant". + + Chapter 3, "a fire specimen of arboreal beauty" changed to "a fine + specimen". + + Chapter 12, "till a stranger, happening to come to visit Santaru" + changed to "to visit Santuru". + + Chapter 14, "the orders of Sekeletu as as to our companions" changed to + "the orders of Sekeletu as to our companions". + + Chapter 14, "while Mashuana plants the poles" changed to "while + Mashauana". + + Chapter 15, "In other cases I have known them turn back" changed to "In + other cases I have known them to turn back". + + Chapter 20, p. 438, "to make a canal from Calumbo to Loando" changed + to "from Calumbo to Loanda". (Loando, while correct, is otherwise only + given in the full Portuguese name.) + + Chapter 26, "we saw the Batoko" changed to "we saw the Batoka". + + Chapter 28, "with whom Lekwebu had lived" changed to "with whom + Sekwebu". +</pre> + <p> + Accented Characters in Words: + </p> + <p> + To maintain an easily searchable text, accented or special characters have + been discarded. The following is a pretty complete list of the words in + the text which were originally accented. They appear more or less in the + order in which they first appeared with the accent—often the accents + were dropped in the original. In each case, the accent follows the + appropriate letter, the "ae" and "oe" combinations are represented as (ae) + and (oe), [\], [/], [~], [^] and [-] represent the accent that looks like + them which would appear above the preceding letter. [=] represents an + accent that looks like the bottom half of a circle, also appearing above + the letter, ["] is an umlaut, and [,] represents a cedilla. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + Athen(ae)um > Athenaeum + Bakwa/in > Bakwain + Mabo/tsa > Mabotsa + Bechua/na > Bechuana + Seche/le > Sechele + Chonua/ne > Chonuane + Bakalaha/ri > Bakalahari + hy(ae)na > hyaena + tse/tse > tsetse + Banajo/a > Banajoa + man(oe)uvre > manoeuvre + Bato-ka > Batoka + Loye/lo > Loyelo + Mamba/ri > Mambari + mopane/ > mopane + Balo=nda > Balonda + Sekele/nke > Sekelenke + Mane/nko > Manenko + Sheako/ndo > Sheakondo + Nyamoa/na > Nyamoana + Kolimbo/ta > Kolimbota + Samba/nza > Sambanza + N~uana Loke/ > Nyuana Loke + larv(ae) > larvae + de/tour > detour + cicad(ae) > cicadae + Korwe/ > Korwe + Moni/na > Monina + Bonya/i > Bonyai + Conge/ > Conge + Bua/ze > Buaze + Leche/ > Leche + Bakue/na > Bakuena + Shokua/ne > Shokuane + Lepelo/le > Lepelole + Litubaru/ba > Litubaruba + Baka/a > Bakaa + Bamangwa/to > Bamangwato + Makala/ka > Makalaka + Letlo/che > Letloche + n~ami > nyami + n~aka > nyaka + Matebe/le > Matebele + Seko/mi > Sekomi + Baka/tla > Bakatla + Meba/lwe > Mebalwe + Batla/pi > Batlapi + Bata/u > Batau + Bano/ga > Banoga + Mokwa/in > Mokwain + Leko/a > Lekoa + Mako/a > Makoa + Mochoase/le > Mochoasele + Limpo/po > Limpopo + Bangwake/tse > Bangwaketse + Sebitua/ne > Sebituane + Makolo/lo > Makololo + Kalaha/ri > Kalahari + mimos(ae) > mimosae + vertebr(ae) > vertebrae + thoae/la > thoaela + tsesse/be > tsessebe + Mosilika/tze > Mosilikatze + Batlo/kua > Batlokua + Bahu/keng > Bahukeng + Bamose/tla > Bamosetla + Manta/tees > Mantatees + Ka-ke > Kake + Matlame/tlo > Matlametlo + (Ae)sop > Aesop + cucurbitace(ae) > cucurbitaceae + Leroshu/a > Leroshua + Ke-me > Keme + simi(ae) > simiae + du"iker > duiker + Mona/to > Monato + Boatlana/ma > Boatlanama + Lope/pe > Lopepe + Mashu"e > Mashue + Lobota/ni > Lobotani + leguminos(ae) > leguminosae + Ramoto/bi > Ramotobi + Mohotlua/ni > Mohotluani + "Kia itume/la" > "Kia itumela" + "Kia time/la" > "Kia timela" + "Ki time/tse" > "Ki timetse" + Moko/ko > Mokoko + Mathulua/ni > Mathuluani + Mokokonya/ni > Mokokonyani + Lotlaka/ni > Lotlakani + Ngabisa/ne > Ngabisane + Bako/ba > Bakoba + Tzo- > Tzo + Bataua/na > Batauana + Lechulate/be > Lechulatebe + More/mi > Moremi + moheto/lo > mohetolo + kuabao-ba > kuabaoba + tumo-go > tumogo + ife/ > ife + Bakuru/tse > Bakurutse + Ntwe/twe > Ntwetwe + Matlomagan-ya/na > Matlomagan-yana + Sichua/na > Sichuana + Maha/be > Mahabe + aroid(oe)a > aroidoea + Maja/ne > Majane + Moro/a > Moroa + Baro/tse > Barotse + Nalie/le > Naliele + Seshe/ke > Sesheke + e- e- e- > ee ee ee + (ae) (ae) (ae) > ae ae ae + Maha/le > Mahale + Namaga/ri > Namagari + Basu/tu > Basutu + Sikonye/le > Sikonyele + Maka/be > Makabe + Damara/s > Damaras + Bashubi/a > Bashubia + C(ae)sar > Caesar + Kafu/e > Kafue + Tlapa/ne > Tlapane + Ramosi/nii/ > Ramosinii + Baloia/na > Baloiana + Bihe/ > Bihe + tse/pe > tsepe + acme/ > acme + lamell(ae) > lamellae + ngotuane/ > ngotuane + diarrh(oe)a > diarrhoea + natur(ae) > naturae + herni(ae) > herniae + Serina/ne > Serinane + Lesho/nya > Leshonya + ka/ma > kama + ta-ri > tari + formul(ae) > formulae + prote/ge/es > protegees + prim(ae)val > primaeval + lamin(ae) > laminae + lopane/ > lopane + Kandeha/i > Kandehai + Mamochisa/ne > Mamochisane + Mpe/pe > Mpepe + Nokua/ne > Nokuane + "Nsepi/sa" > "Nsepisa" + Banye/ti > Banyeti + boya/loa > boyaloa + o-a/lo > o-alo + bu/za > buza + minuti(ae) > minutiae + Moti/be > Motibe + hypog(oe)a > hypogoea + Bapa/lleng > Bapalleng + Cho- > Cho + Tso- > Tso + "Ho-o-!" > "Ho-o!" + Mako-a > Makoa + Seko-a > Sekoa + Makolo/kue > Makolokue + Bape-ri > Baperi + Bapo- > Bapo + Narie/le > Nariele + giraff(ae) > giraffae + lechwe/s > lechwes + Luambe/ji > Luambeji + Luambe/si > Luambesi + Ambe/zi > Ambezi + Ojimbe/si > Ojimbesi + Zambe/si > Zambesi + Tianya/ne > Tianyane + Lebeo/le > Lebeole + Sisinya/ne > Sisinyane + Molo=iana > Moloiana + "tau e to=na" > "tau e tona" + "Sau e to=na" > "Sau e tona" + Lo=nda > Londa + Ambo=nda > Ambonda + n~ake > nyake + "Kua-!" > "Kua!" + moshe/ba > mosheba + Name/ta > Nameta + Masi/ko > Masiko + Pitsa/ne > Pitsane + Sekobinya/ne > Sekobinyane + Mashaua/na > Mashauana + mogame/tsa > mogametsa + mamo/sho > mamosho + moshomo/sho > moshomosho + Babi/mpe > Babimpe + Mosa/ntu > Mosantu + Mosioatu/nya > Mosioatunya + Sima/h > Simah + Bo=nda > Bonda + Lonko/nye > Lonkonye + leko/to > lekoto + Shinte/ > Shinte + Kabo/mpo > Kabompo + Samoa/na > Samoana + Baloba/le > Balobale + hakite/nwe > hakitenwe + polu/ma > poluma + Matia/mvo > Matiamvo + Monaka/dzi > Monakadzi + Inteme/se > Intemese + Saloi/sho > Saloisho + Scottice\ > Scottice + Mokwa/nkwa > Mokwankwa + "Moka/la a Ma/ma" > "Mokala a Mama" + n~uana Kalueje > nyuana Kalueje + typhoi"deum > typhoideum + loke/sh > lokesh + Soa/na Molo/po > Soana Molopo + Mozi/nkwa > Mozinkwa + Livo/a > Livoa + Chifuma/dze > Chifumadze + Shakatwa/la > Shakatwala + Quende/nde > Quendende + Muata ya/nvo > Muata yanvo + mua/ta > muata + Kange/nke > Kangenke + Moe/ne > Moene + Lo=lo= > Lolo + Lishi/sh > Lishish + Li/ss > Liss + Kalile/me > Kalileme + Ishidi/sh > Ishidish + Molo/ng > Molong + sela/li > selali + Mone/nga > Monenga + Moso/go > Mosogo + Monenga-wo-o- > Monenga-wo-o + Kasimaka/te > Kasimakate + ilo/lo > ilolo + Kate/nde > Katende + Loke/ > Loke + Kalo/mba > Kalomba + Tote/lo > Totelo + Averie/ > Averie + Loze/ze > Lozeze + Kasa/bi > Kasabi + Kalu/ze > Kaluze + Chihune/ > Chihune + Chiho/mbo > Chihombo + Banga/la > Bangala + Chika/pa > Chikapa + Loya/nke > Loyanke + Sakanda/la > Sakandala + Bashinje/ > Bashinje + Babinde/le > Babindele + Kamboe/la > Kamboela + Caba/ngo > Cabango + Qua/ngo > Quango + Sansa/we/ > Sansawe + cyclop(ae)dia > cyclopaedia + Kassanje/ > Kassanje + Catende/ > Catende + via^ > via + Laurence Jose/ Marquis > Laurence Jose Marquis + El(ae)is > Elaeis + Salvador Correa de Sa/ Benevides > Salvador Correa de Sa Benevides + Algoda~o Americana > Algodao Americana + Cercopid(ae) > Cercopidae + graminace(ae) > graminaceae + Pedro Joa~o Baptista > Pedro Joao Baptista + Antonio Jose/ > Antonio Jose + Senhor Grac,a > Senhor Graca + al(ae) > alae + Kama/ue > Kamaue + Sylviad(ae) > Sylviadae + Muanza/nza > Muanzanza + Zaire/ > Zaire + Zere/zere/ > Zerezere + alg(ae) > algae + Tanganye/nka > Tanganyenka + ae"rial > aerial + arac,a > araca + Limbo-a > Limboa + Lofuje/ > Lofuje + Boie/ > Boie + hygie\ne > hygiene + Sekwe/bu > Sekwebu + Ntlarie/ > Ntlarie + Nkwatle/le > Nkwatlele + Moriantsa/ne > Moriantsane + Nampe/ne > Nampene + Leko/ne > Lekone + Seko/te > Sekote + Kala/i > Kalai + "motse/ oa barimo" > "motse oa barimo" + Loye/la > Loyela + Mokwine/ > Mokwine + mane/ko > maneko + motsintse/la > motsintsela + pup(ae) > pupae + Pelop(ae)us > Pelopaeus + Mburu/ma > Mburuma + Nyungwe/ > Nyungwe + Sindese Oale/a > Sindese Oalea + ae"rolites > aerolites + Chowe/ > Chowe + Banya/i > Banyai + Moho/hu > Mohohu + Cho/be > Chobe + Boro/ma > Boroma + Nyampu/ngo > Nyampungo + Katolo/sa > Katolosa + Monomota/pa > Monomotapa + Su/sa > Susa + Nyate/we > Nyatewe + More/na > Morena + Monomoi/zes > Monomoizes + Monemui/ges > Monemuiges + Monomui/zes > Monomuizes + Monomota/pistas > Monomotapistas + Mota/pe > Motape + Babi/sa > Babisa + Bazizu/lu > Bazizulu + Masho/na > Mashona + Moruru/rus > Morururus + Boro/mo > Boromo + Nyako/ba > Nyakoba + moku/ri > mokuri + shekabaka/dzi > shekabakadzi + Loko/le > Lokole + Mazo/e > Mazoe + Te/te > Tete + Te/tte > Tette + hom(oe)opathic > homoeopathic + chrysomelid(ae) > chrysomelidae + Lofu/bu > Lofubu + Revu/bu > Revubu + Morongo/zi > Morongozi + Nyamboro/nda > Nyamboronda + brac,a > braca + Mashi/nga > Mashinga + Shindu/ndo > Shindundo + Missa/la > Missala + Kapa/ta > Kapata + Ma/no > Mano + Ja/wa > Jawa + Panya/me > Panyame + Dambara/ri > Dambarari + Abu/tua > Abutua + Mani/ca > Manica + hypog(ae)a > hypogaea + Kansa/la > Kansala + Luapu/ra > Luapura + Luame/ji > Luameji + Muro/mbo > Murombo + shitakote/ko > shitakoteko + Mpa/mbe > Mpambe + Nya/mpi > Nyampi + Za/mbi > Zambi + e/clat > eclat + pharmacop(oe)ia > pharmacopoeia + Goo- > Go-o + amenorrh(oe)a > amenorrhoea + Inya/kanya/nya > Inyakanyanya + Morumba/la > Morumbala + Nyamo/nga > Nyamonga + Gorongo/zo > Gorongozo + Sofa/la > Sofala + Sabi/a > Sabia + Senhor Ferra~o > Senhor Ferrao + Nje/fu > Njefu + Maza/ro > Mazaro + Baro/ro > Baroro + Lu/abo > Luabo + Muse/lo > Muselo + Nyangu/e > Nyangue + Sen~or > Senor + Aseve/do > Asevedo + Mu/tu > Mutu + Panga/zi > Pangazi + Lua/re > Luare + Likua/re > Likuare + Maiu"do > Maiudo +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1039 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |