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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>Roughing It, Part 8</title>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content=
+"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+
+<style type="text/css">
+ <!--
+ body {background:#faebd7; margin:10%; text-align:justify}
+ P { text-indent: 1em;
+ margin-top: .75em;
+ margin-bottom: .75em; }
+ H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; }
+ HR { width: 33%; text-align: center; }
+ blockquote {font-size: 97% }
+ .figleft {float: left;}
+ .figright {float: right;}
+ .toc { margin-left: 15%; margin-bottom: 0em;}
+ CENTER { padding: 10px;}
+ // -->
+</style>
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+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h2>ROUGHING IT, By Mark Twain, Part 8 </h2>
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Roughing It, Part 8., by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Roughing It, Part 8.
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: July 3, 2004 [EBook #8589]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 8. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<br>
+<hr>
+<br><br><br><br><br><br>
+
+
+<center><img alt="cover.jpg (90K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="1071" width="733"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="spine.jpg (54K)" src="images/spine.jpg" height="1071" width="307"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center>
+<h1>ROUGHING IT, Part 8</h1>
+<br><br>
+<h2>By Mark Twain</h2>
+</center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece1.jpg (168K)" src="images/frontispiece1.jpg" height="643" width="903"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<a name="frontispiece2"></a>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece2.jpg (184K)" src="images/frontispiece2.jpg" height="1020" width="600"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="titlepage.jpg (95K)" src="images/titlepage.jpg" height="1064" width="705"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="dedication.jpg (18K)" src="images/dedication.jpg" height="273" width="425"></center>
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>PREFATORY.</h2> </center>
+<br>
+<p>This book is merely a personal narrative, and not a
+pretentious history or a philosophical dissertation. It is a
+record of several years of variegated vagabondizing, and its
+object is rather to help the resting reader while away an idle
+hour than afflict him with metaphysics, or goad him with science.
+Still, there is information in the volume; information concerning
+an interesting episode in the history of the Far West, about
+which no books have been written by persons who were on the
+ground in person, and saw the happenings of the time with their
+own eyes. I allude to the rise, growth and culmination of the
+silver-mining fever in Nevada&mdash;a curious episode, in some
+respects; the only one, of its peculiar kind, that has occurred
+in the land; and the only one, indeed, that is likely to occur in
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, take it all around, there is quite a good deal of
+information in the book. I regret this very much; but really it
+could not be helped: information appears to stew out of me
+naturally, like the precious ottar of roses out of the otter.
+Sometimes it has seemed to me that I would give worlds if I could
+retain my facts; but it cannot be. The more I calk up the
+sources, and the tighter I get, the more I leak wisdom.
+Therefore, I can only claim indulgence at the hands of the
+reader, not justification.</p>
+
+<p>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>CONTENTS.</h2></center>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+
+<p><a href="#ch71">CHAPTER LXXI.</a> Kealakekua Bay&mdash;Death of Captain Cook&mdash;His
+Monument&mdash;Its Construction&mdash;On Board the Schooner</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch72">CHAPTER LXXII.</a> Young Kanakas in New England&mdash;A Temple Built by
+Ghosts&mdash;Female Bathers&mdash;I Stood Guard&mdash;Women and Whiskey&mdash;A Fight
+for Religion&mdash;Arrival of Missionaries</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch73">CHAPTER LXXIII.</a> Native Canoes&mdash;Surf Bathing&mdash;A Sanctuary&mdash;How
+Built&mdash;The Queen's Rock&mdash;Curiosities&mdash;Petrified Lava</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch74">CHAPTER LXXIV.</a> Visit to the Volcano&mdash;The Crater&mdash;Pillar of
+Fire&mdash;Magnificent Spectacle&mdash;A Lake of Fire</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch75">CHAPTER LXXV.</a> The North Lake&mdash;Fountains of Fire&mdash;Streams of
+Burning Lava&mdash;Tidal Waves</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch76">CHAPTER LXXVI.</a> A Reminiscence&mdash;Another Horse Story&mdash;My Ride
+with the Retired Milk Horse- -A Picnicing Excursion&mdash;Dead Volcano
+of Holeakala&mdash;Comparison with Vesuvius&mdash;An Inside View</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch77">CHAPTER LXXVII.</a> A Curious Character&mdash;A Series of Stories&mdash;Sad
+Fate of a Liar&mdash;Evidence of Insanity</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch78">CHAPTER LXXVIII.</a> Return to San Francisco&mdash;Ship
+Amusements&mdash;Preparing for Lecturing&mdash;Valuable Assistance
+Secured&mdash;My First Attempt&mdash;The Audience Carried&mdash;"All's Well
+that Ends Well."</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch79">CHAPTER LXXIX.</a> Highwaymen&mdash;A Predicament&mdash;A Huge
+Joke&mdash;Farewell to California&mdash;At Home Again&mdash;Great Changes.
+Moral.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX. A.</a>&mdash;Brief Sketch of Mormon History B.&mdash;The Mountain
+Meadows Massacre C.&mdash;Concerning a Frightful Assassination that
+was never Consummated</p>
+
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+
+
+
+272. <a href="#514">KEALAKEKUA BAY AND COOK'S MONUMENT</a><br>
+273. <a href="#518">THE GHOSTLY BUILDERS</a><br>
+274. <a href="#519">ON GUARD</a><br>
+275. <a href="#521">BREAKING THE TABU</a><br>
+276. <a href="#525">SURF BATHING</a><br>
+277. <a href="#526">SURF BATHING A FAILURE</a><br>
+278. <a href="#527">CITY OF REFUGE</a><br>
+279. <a href="#529">THE QUEEN'S ROCK</a><br>
+280. <a href="#531">TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+281. <a href="#533">THE PILLAR OF FIRE</a><br>
+282. <a href="#535">THE CRATER</a><br>
+283. <a href="#539">BROKE THROUGH</a><br>
+284. <a href="#540">FIRE FOUNTAINS</a><br>
+285. <a href="#542">LAVA STREAM</a><br>
+286. <a href="#543">A TIDAL WAVE</a><br>
+287. <a href="#545">TRIP ON THE MILKY WAY</a><br>
+288. <a href="#547">A VIEW IN THE TAO VALLEY</a><br>
+289. <a href="#549">MAGNIFICENT SPORT</a><br>
+290. <a href="#553">ELEVEN MILES TO SEE</a><br>
+291. <a href="#554">CHASED BY A STORM</a><br>
+292. <a href="#555">LEAVING WORK</a><br>
+293. <a href="#557">TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+294. <a href="#559">OUR AMUSEMENTS</a><br>
+295. <a href="#561">SEVERE CASE OF STAGE FRIGHT</a><br>
+296. <a href="#562">MY THREE PARQUETTE ALLIES</a><br>
+297. <a href="#562">SAWYER IN THE CIRCLE</a><br>
+298. <a href="#567">A PREDICAMENT</a><br>
+299. <a href="#569">THE BEST OF THE JOKE</a><br>
+300. <a href="#570">THE END</a><br>
+
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+
+
+
+<a name="ch71"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon we were winding down a
+mountain of dreary and desolate lava to the sea, and closing our
+pleasant land journey. This lava is the accumulation of ages; one
+torrent of fire after another has rolled down here in old times,
+and built up the island structure higher and higher. Underneath,
+it is honey-combed with caves; it would be of no use to dig wells
+in such a place; they would not hold water&mdash;you would not find
+any for them to hold, for that matter. Consequently, the planters
+depend upon cisterns.</p>
+
+<p>The last lava flow occurred here so long ago that there are
+none now living who witnessed it. In one place it enclosed and
+burned down a grove of cocoa-nut trees, and the holes in the lava
+where the trunks stood are still visible; their sides retain the
+impression of the bark; the trees fell upon the burning river,
+and becoming partly submerged, left in it the perfect counterpart
+of every knot and branch and leaf, and even nut, for curiosity
+seekers of a long distant day to gaze upon and wonder at.</p>
+
+<p>There were doubtless plenty of Kanaka sentinels on guard
+hereabouts at that time, but they did not leave casts of their
+figures in the lava as the Roman sentinels at Herculaneum and
+Pompeii did. It is a pity it is so, because such things are so
+interesting; but so it is. They probably went away. They went
+away early, perhaps. However, they had their merits; the Romans
+exhibited the higher pluck, but the Kanakas showed the sounder
+judgment.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly we came in sight of that spot whose history is so
+familiar to every school-boy in the wide world&mdash;Kealakekua
+Bay&mdash;the place where Captain Cook, the great circumnavigator, was
+killed by the natives, nearly a hundred years ago. The setting
+sun was flaming upon it, a Summer shower was falling, and it was
+spanned by two magnificent rainbows. Two men who were in advance
+of us rode through one of these and for a moment their garments
+shone with a more than regal splendor. Why did not Captain Cook
+have taste enough to call his great discovery the Rainbow
+Islands? These charming spectacles are present to you at every
+turn; they are common in all the islands; they are visible every
+day, and frequently at night also&mdash;not the silvery bow we see
+once in an age in the States, by moonlight, but barred with all
+bright and beautiful colors, like the children of the sun and
+rain. I saw one of them a few nights ago. What the sailors call
+"raindogs"&mdash;little patches of rainbow&mdash;are often seen drifting
+about the heavens in these latitudes, like stained cathedral
+windows.</p>
+
+<p>Kealakekua Bay is a little curve like the last kink of a
+snail-shell, winding deep into the land, seemingly not more than
+a mile wide from shore to shore. It is bounded on one side&mdash;where
+the murder was done&mdash;by a little flat plain, on which stands a
+cocoanut grove and some ruined houses; a steep wall of lava, a
+thousand feet high at the upper end and three or four hundred at
+the lower, comes down from the mountain and bounds the inner
+extremity of it. From this wall the place takes its name,
+Kealakekua, which in the native tongue signifies "The Pathway of
+the Gods." They say, (and still believe, in spite of their
+liberal education in Christianity), that the great god Lono, who
+used to live upon the hillside, always traveled that causeway
+when urgent business connected with heavenly affairs called him
+down to the seashore in a hurry.</p>
+
+<p>As the red sun looked across the placid ocean through the
+tall, clean stems of the cocoanut trees, like a blooming whiskey
+bloat through the bars of a city prison, I went and stood in the
+edge of the water on the flat rock pressed by Captain Cook's feet
+when the blow was dealt which took away his life, and tried to
+picture in my mind the doomed man struggling in the midst of the
+multitude of exasperated savages&mdash;the men in the ship crowding to
+the vessel's side and gazing in anxious dismay toward the
+shore&mdash;the&mdash;but I discovered that I could not do it.</p>
+
+<a name="514"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="514.jpg (93K)" src="images/514.jpg" height="501" width="605">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>It was growing dark, the rain began to fall, we could see that
+the distant Boomerang was helplessly becalmed at sea, and so I
+adjourned to the cheerless little box of a warehouse and sat down
+to smoke and think, and wish the ship would make the land&mdash;for we
+had not eaten much for ten hours and were viciously hungry.</p>
+
+<p>Plain unvarnished history takes the romance out of Captain
+Cook's assassination, and renders a deliberate verdict of
+justifiable homicide. Wherever he went among the islands, he was
+cordially received and welcomed by the inhabitants, and his ships
+lavishly supplied with all manner of food. He returned these
+kindnesses with insult and ill- treatment. Perceiving that the
+people took him for the long vanished and lamented god Lono, he
+encouraged them in the delusion for the sake of the limitless
+power it gave him; but during the famous disturbance at this
+spot, and while he and his comrades were surrounded by fifteen
+thousand maddened savages, he received a hurt and betrayed his
+earthly origin with a groan. It was his death-warrant. Instantly
+a shout went up: "He groans!&mdash;he is not a god!" So they closed in
+upon him and dispatched him.</p>
+
+<p>His flesh was stripped from the bones and burned (except nine
+pounds of it which were sent on board the ships). The heart was
+hung up in a native hut, where it was found and eaten by three
+children, who mistook it for the heart of a dog. One of these
+children grew to be a very old man, and died in Honolulu a few
+years ago. Some of Cook's bones were recovered and consigned to
+the deep by the officers of the ships.</p>
+
+<p>Small blame should attach to the natives for the killing of
+Cook. They treated him well. In return, he abused them. He and
+his men inflicted bodily injury upon many of them at different
+times, and killed at least three of them before they offered any
+proportionate retaliation.</p>
+
+<p>Near the shore we found "Cook's Monument"&mdash;only a cocoanut
+stump, four feet high and about a foot in diameter at the butt.
+It had lava boulders piled around its base to hold it up and keep
+it in its place, and it was entirely sheathed over, from top to
+bottom, with rough, discolored sheets of copper, such as ships'
+bottoms are coppered with. Each sheet had a rude inscription
+scratched upon it&mdash;with a nail, apparently&mdash;and in every case the
+execution was wretched. Most of these merely recorded the visits
+of British naval commanders to the spot, but one of them bore
+this legend:</p>
+
+<p>"Near this spot fell CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, The Distinguished
+Circumnavigator, Who Discovered these Islands A. D. 1778."</p>
+
+<p>After Cook's murder, his second in command, on board the ship,
+opened fire upon the swarms of natives on the beach, and one of
+his cannon balls cut this cocoanut tree short off and left this
+monumental stump standing. It looked sad and lonely enough to us,
+out there in the rainy twilight. But there is no other monument
+to Captain Cook. True, up on the mountain side we had passed by a
+large inclosure like an ample hog-pen, built of lava blocks,
+which marks the spot where Cook's flesh was stripped from his
+bones and burned; but this is not properly a monument since it
+was erected by the natives themselves, and less to do honor to
+the circumnavigator than for the sake of convenience in roasting
+him. A thing like a guide-board was elevated above this pen on a
+tall pole, and formerly there was an inscription upon it
+describing the memorable occurrence that had there taken place;
+but the sun and the wind have long ago so defaced it as to render
+it illegible.</p>
+
+<p>Toward midnight a fine breeze sprang up and the schooner soon
+worked herself into the bay and cast anchor. The boat came ashore
+for us, and in a little while the clouds and the rain were all
+gone. The moon was beaming tranquilly down on land and sea, and
+we two were stretched upon the deck sleeping the refreshing sleep
+and dreaming the happy dreams that are only vouchsafed to the
+weary and the innocent.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch72"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>In the breezy morning we went ashore and visited the ruined
+temple of the last god Lono. The high chief cook of this
+temple&mdash;the priest who presided over it and roasted the human
+sacrifices&mdash;was uncle to Obookia, and at one time that youth was
+an apprentice-priest under him. Obookia was a young native of
+fine mind, who, together with three other native boys, was taken
+to New England by the captain of a whaleship during the reign of
+Kamehameha I, and they were the means of attracting the attention
+of the religious world to their country. This resulted in the
+sending of missionaries there. And this Obookia was the very same
+sensitive savage who sat down on the church steps and wept
+because his people did not have the Bible. That incident has been
+very elaborately painted in many a charming Sunday School
+book&mdash;aye, and told so plaintively and so tenderly that I have
+cried over it in Sunday School myself, on general principles,
+although at a time when I did not know much and could not
+understand why the people of the Sandwich Islands needed to worry
+so much about it as long as they did not know there was a Bible
+at all.</p>
+
+<p>Obookia was converted and educated, and was to have returned
+to his native land with the first missionaries, had he lived. The
+other native youths made the voyage, and two of them did good
+service, but the third, William Kanui, fell from grace afterward,
+for a time, and when the gold excitement broke out in California
+he journeyed thither and went to mining, although he was fifty
+years old. He succeeded pretty well, but the failure of Page,
+Bacon &amp; Co. relieved him of six thousand dollars, and then, to
+all intents and purposes, he was a bankrupt in his old age and he
+resumed service in the pulpit again. He died in Honolulu in
+1864.</p>
+
+<p>Quite a broad tract of land near the temple, extending from
+the sea to the mountain top, was sacred to the god Lono in olden
+times&mdash;so sacred that if a common native set his sacrilegious
+foot upon it it was judicious for him to make his will, because
+his time had come. He might go around it by water, but he could
+not cross it. It was well sprinkled with pagan temples and
+stocked with awkward, homely idols carved out of logs of wood.
+There was a temple devoted to prayers for rain&mdash;and with fine
+sagacity it was placed at a point so well up on the mountain side
+that if you prayed there twenty-four times a day for rain you
+would be likely to get it every time. You would seldom get to
+your Amen before you would have to hoist your umbrella.</p>
+
+<a name="518"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="518.jpg (54K)" src="images/518.jpg" height="397" width="479">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>And there was a large temple near at hand which was built in a
+single night, in the midst of storm and thunder and rain, by the
+ghastly hands of dead men! Tradition says that by the weird glare
+of the lightning a noiseless multitude of phantoms were seen at
+their strange labor far up the mountain side at dead of
+night&mdash;flitting hither and thither and bearing great lava-blocks
+clasped in their nerveless fingers&mdash;appearing and disappearing as
+the pallid lustre fell upon their forms and faded away again.
+Even to this day, it is said, the natives hold this dread
+structure in awe and reverence, and will not pass by it in the
+night.</p>
+
+<a name="519"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="519.jpg (43K)" src="images/519.jpg" height="338" width="468">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>At noon I observed a bevy of nude native young ladies bathing
+in the sea, and went and sat down on their clothes to keep them
+from being stolen. I begged them to come out, for the sea was
+rising and I was satisfied that they were running some risk. But
+they were not afraid, and presently went on with their sport.
+They were finished swimmers and divers, and enjoyed themselves to
+the last degree.</p>
+
+<p>They swam races, splashed and ducked and tumbled each other
+about, and filled the air with their laughter. It is said that
+the first thing an Islander learns is how to swim; learning to
+walk being a matter of smaller consequence, comes afterward. One
+hears tales of native men and women swimming ashore from vessels
+many miles at sea&mdash;more miles, indeed, than I dare vouch for or
+even mention. And they tell of a native diver who went down in
+thirty or forty-foot waters and brought up an anvil! I think he
+swallowed the anvil afterward, if my memory serves me. However I
+will not urge this point.</p>
+
+<p>I have spoken, several times, of the god Lono&mdash;I may as well
+furnish two or three sentences concerning him.</p>
+
+<p>The idol the natives worshipped for him was a slender,
+unornamented staff twelve feet long. Tradition says he was a
+favorite god on the Island of Hawaii&mdash;a great king who had been
+deified for meritorious services&mdash;just our own fashion of
+rewarding heroes, with the difference that we would have made him
+a Postmaster instead of a god, no doubt. In an angry moment he
+slew his wife, a goddess named Kaikilani Aiii. Remorse of
+conscience drove him mad, and tradition presents us the singular
+spectacle of a god traveling "on the shoulder;" for in his
+gnawing grief he wandered about from place to place boxing and
+wrestling with all whom he met. Of course this pastime soon lost
+its novelty, inasmuch as it must necessarily have been the case
+that when so powerful a deity sent a frail human opponent "to
+grass" he never came back any more. Therefore, he instituted
+games called makahiki, and ordered that they should be held in
+his honor, and then sailed for foreign lands on a three-cornered
+raft, stating that he would return some day&mdash;and that was the
+last of Lono. He was never seen any more; his raft got swamped,
+perhaps. But the people always expected his return, and thus they
+were easily led to accept Captain Cook as the restored god.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the old natives believed Cook was Lono to the day of
+their death; but many did not, for they could not understand how
+he could die if he was a god.</p>
+
+<p>Only a mile or so from Kealakekua Bay is a spot of historic
+interest&mdash;the place where the last battle was fought for
+idolatry. Of course we visited it, and came away as wise as most
+people do who go and gaze upon such mementoes of the past when in
+an unreflective mood.</p>
+
+<p>While the first missionaries were on their way around the
+Horn, the idolatrous customs which had obtained in the island, as
+far back as tradition reached were suddenly broken up. Old
+Kamehameha I., was dead, and his son, Liholiho, the new King was
+a free liver, a roystering, dissolute fellow, and hated the
+restraints of the ancient tabu. His assistant in the Government,
+Kaahumanu, the Queen dowager, was proud and high-spirited, and
+hated the tabu because it restricted the privileges of her sex
+and degraded all women very nearly to the level of brutes. So the
+case stood. Liholiho had half a mind to put his foot down,
+Kaahumahu had a whole mind to badger him into doing it, and
+whiskey did the rest. It was probably the rest. It was probably
+the first time whiskey ever prominently figured as an aid to
+civilization. Liholiho came up to Kailua as drunk as a piper, and
+attended a great feast; the determined Queen spurred his drunken
+courage up to a reckless pitch, and then, while all the multitude
+stared in blank dismay, he moved deliberately forward and sat
+down with the women!</p>
+
+<p>They saw him eat from the same vessel with them, and were
+appalled! Terrible moments drifted slowly by, and still the King
+ate, still he lived, still the lightnings of the insulted gods
+were withheld! Then conviction came like a revelation&mdash;the
+superstitions of a hundred generations passed from before the
+people like a cloud, and a shout went up, "the tabu is broken!
+the tabu is broken!"</p>
+
+<a name="521"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="521.jpg (100K)" src="images/521.jpg" height="500" width="623">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Thus did King Liholiho and his dreadful whiskey preach the
+first sermon and prepare the way for the new gospel that was
+speeding southward over the waves of the Atlantic.</p>
+
+<p>The tabu broken and destruction failing to follow the awful
+sacrilege, the people, with that childlike precipitancy which has
+always characterized them, jumped to the conclusion that their
+gods were a weak and wretched swindle, just as they formerly
+jumped to the conclusion that Captain Cook was no god, merely
+because he groaned, and promptly killed him without stopping to
+inquire whether a god might not groan as well as a man if it
+suited his convenience to do it; and satisfied that the idols
+were powerless to protect themselves they went to work at once
+and pulled them down&mdash;hacked them to pieces&mdash;applied the
+torch&mdash;annihilated them!</p>
+
+<p>The pagan priests were furious. And well they might be; they
+had held the fattest offices in the land, and now they were
+beggared; they had been great&mdash;they had stood above the
+chiefs&mdash;and now they were vagabonds. They raised a revolt; they
+scared a number of people into joining their standard, and
+Bekuokalani, an ambitious offshoot of royalty, was easily
+persuaded to become their leader.</p>
+
+<p>In the first skirmish the idolaters triumphed over the royal
+army sent against them, and full of confidence they resolved to
+march upon Kailua. The King sent an envoy to try and conciliate
+them, and came very near being an envoy short by the operation;
+the savages not only refused to listen to him, but wanted to kill
+him. So the King sent his men forth under Major General Kalaimoku
+and the two host met a Kuamoo. The battle was long and
+fierce&mdash;men and women fighting side by side, as was the
+custom&mdash;and when the day was done the rebels were flying in every
+direction in hopeless panic, and idolatry and the tabu were dead
+in the land!</p>
+
+<p>The royalists marched gayly home to Kailua glorifying the new
+dispensation. "There is no power in the gods," said they; "they
+are a vanity and a lie. The army with idols was weak; the army
+without idols was strong and victorious!"</p>
+
+<p>The nation was without a religion.</p>
+
+<p>The missionary ship arrived in safety shortly afterward, timed
+by providential exactness to meet the emergency, and the Gospel
+was planted as in a virgin soil.</p>
+
+<a name="523"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="523.jpg (57K)" src="images/523.jpg" height="411" width="566">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch73"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>At noon, we hired a Kanaka to take us down to the ancient
+ruins at Honaunan in his canoe&mdash;price two dollars&mdash;reasonable
+enough, for a sea voyage of eight miles, counting both ways.</p>
+
+<p>The native canoe is an irresponsible looking contrivance. I
+cannot think of anything to liken it to but a boy's sled runner
+hollowed out, and that does not quite convey the correct idea. It
+is about fifteen feet long, high and pointed at both ends, is a
+foot and a half or two feet deep, and so narrow that if you
+wedged a fat man into it you might not get him out again. It sits
+on top of the water like a duck, but it has an outrigger and does
+not upset easily, if you keep still. This outrigger is formed of
+two long bent sticks like plow handles, which project from one
+side, and to their outer ends is bound a curved beam composed of
+an extremely light wood, which skims along the surface of the
+water and thus saves you from an upset on that side, while the
+outrigger's weight is not so easily lifted as to make an upset on
+the other side a thing to be greatly feared. Still, until one
+gets used to sitting perched upon this knifeblade, he is apt to
+reason within himself that it would be more comfortable if there
+were just an outrigger or so on the other side also. I had the
+bow seat, and Billings sat amidships and faced the Kanaka, who
+occupied the stern of the craft and did the paddling. With the
+first stroke the trim shell of a thing shot out from the shore
+like an arrow. There was not much to see. While we were on the
+shallow water of the reef, it was pastime to look down into the
+limpid depths at the large bunches of branching coral&mdash;the unique
+shrubbery of the sea. We lost that, though, when we got out into
+the dead blue water of the deep. But we had the picture of the
+surf, then, dashing angrily against the crag- bound shore and
+sending a foaming spray high into the air.</p>
+
+<p>There was interest in this beetling border, too, for it was
+honey-combed with quaint caves and arches and tunnels, and had a
+rude semblance of the dilapidated architecture of ruined keeps
+and castles rising out of the restless sea. When this novelty
+ceased to be a novelty, we turned our eyes shoreward and gazed at
+the long mountain with its rich green forests stretching up into
+the curtaining clouds, and at the specks of houses in the
+rearward distance and the diminished schooner riding sleepily at
+anchor. And when these grew tiresome we dashed boldly into the
+midst of a school of huge, beastly porpoises engaged at their
+eternal game of arching over a wave and disappearing, and then
+doing it over again and keeping it up&mdash;always circling over, in
+that way, like so many well- submerged wheels. But the porpoises
+wheeled themselves away, and then we were thrown upon our own
+resources. It did not take many minutes to discover that the sun
+was blazing like a bonfire, and that the weather was of a melting
+temperature. It had a drowsing effect, too.
+
+<p>
+
+<a name="525"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="525.jpg (87K)" src="images/525.jpg" height="446" width="582">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>
+
+In one place we came
+upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all
+ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of
+surf-bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards
+out to sea, (taking a short board with him), then face the shore
+and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at
+the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest
+and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by
+like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning express train
+could shoot along at a more hair-lifting speed. I tried
+surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got
+the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed
+the connection myself.&mdash;The board struck the shore in three
+quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom
+about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me.
+None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing
+thoroughly.</p>
+
+<a name="526"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="526.jpg (33K)" src="images/526.jpg" height="334" width="325">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>At the end of an hour, we had made the four miles, and landed
+on a level point of land, upon which was a wide extent of old
+ruins, with many a tall cocoanut tree growing among them. Here
+was the ancient City of Refuge&mdash;a vast inclosure, whose stone
+walls were twenty feet thick at the base, and fifteen feet high;
+an oblong square, a thousand and forty feet one way and a
+fraction under seven hundred the other. Within this inclosure, in
+early times, has been three rude temples; each two hundred and
+ten feet long by one hundred wide, and thirteen high.</p>
+
+<p>In those days, if a man killed another anywhere on the island
+the relatives were privileged to take the murderer's life; and
+then a chase for life and liberty began&mdash;the outlawed criminal
+flying through pathless forests and over mountain and plain, with
+his hopes fixed upon the protecting walls of the City of Refuge,
+and the avenger of blood following hotly after him!</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes the race was kept up to the very gates of the
+temple, and the panting pair sped through long files of excited
+natives, who watched the contest with flashing eye and dilated
+nostril, encouraging the hunted refugee with sharp, inspiriting
+ejaculations, and sending up a ringing shout of exultation when
+the saving gates closed upon him and the cheated pursuer sank
+exhausted at the threshold. But sometimes the flying criminal
+fell under the hand of the avenger at the very door, when one
+more brave stride, one more brief second of time would have
+brought his feet upon the sacred ground and barred him against
+all harm. Where did these isolated pagans get this idea of a City
+of Refuge&mdash;this ancient Oriental custom?</p>
+
+<a name="527"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="527.jpg (73K)" src="images/527.jpg" height="400" width="574">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>This old sanctuary was sacred to all&mdash;even to rebels in arms
+and invading armies. Once within its walls, and confession made
+to the priest and absolution obtained, the wretch with a price
+upon his head could go forth without fear and without danger&mdash;he
+was tabu, and to harm him was death. The routed rebels in the
+lost battle for idolatry fled to this place to claim sanctuary,
+and many were thus saved.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the corner of the great inclosure is a round
+structure of stone, some six or eight feet high, with a level top
+about ten or twelve in diameter. This was the place of execution.
+A high palisade of cocoanut piles shut out the cruel scenes from
+the vulgar multitude. Here criminals were killed, the flesh
+stripped from the bones and burned, and the bones secreted in
+holes in the body of the structure. If the man had been guilty of
+a high crime, the entire corpse was burned.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the temple are a study. The same food for
+speculation that is offered the visitor to the Pyramids of Egypt
+he will find here&mdash;the mystery of how they were constructed by a
+people unacquainted with science and mechanics. The natives have
+no invention of their own for hoisting heavy weights, they had no
+beasts of burden, and they have never even shown any knowledge of
+the properties of the lever. Yet some of the lava blocks quarried
+out, brought over rough, broken ground, and built into this wall,
+six or seven feet from the ground, are of prodigious size and
+would weigh tons. How did they transport and how raise them?</p>
+
+<p>Both the inner and outer surfaces of the walls present a
+smooth front and are very creditable specimens of masonry. The
+blocks are of all manner of shapes and sizes, but yet are fitted
+together with the neatest exactness. The gradual narrowing of the
+wall from the base upward is accurately preserved.</p>
+
+<p>No cement was used, but the edifice is firm and compact and is
+capable of resisting storm and decay for centuries. Who built
+this temple, and how was it built, and when, are mysteries that
+may never be unraveled. Outside of these ancient walls lies a
+sort of coffin-shaped stone eleven feet four inches long and
+three feet square at the small end (it would weigh a few thousand
+pounds), which the high chief who held sway over this district
+many centuries ago brought thither on his shoulder one day to use
+as a lounge! This circumstance is established by the most
+reliable traditions. He used to lie down on it, in his indolent
+way, and keep an eye on his subjects at work for him and see that
+there was no "soldiering" done. And no doubt there was not any
+done to speak of, because he was a man of that sort of build that
+incites to attention to business on the part of an employee.</p>
+
+<p>He was fourteen or fifteen feet high. When he stretched
+himself at full length on his lounge, his legs hung down over the
+end, and when he snored he woke the dead. These facts are all
+attested by irrefragable tradition.</p>
+
+<a name="529"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="529.jpg (86K)" src="images/529.jpg" height="498" width="598">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>On the other side of the temple is a monstrous seven-ton rock,
+eleven feet long, seven feet wide and three feet thick. It is
+raised a foot or a foot and a half above the ground, and rests
+upon half a dozen little stony pedestals. The same old
+fourteen-footer brought it down from the mountain, merely for fun
+(he had his own notions about fun), and propped it up as we find
+it now and as others may find it a century hence, for it would
+take a score of horses to budge it from its position. They say
+that fifty or sixty years ago the proud Queen Kaahumanu used to
+fly to this rock for safety, whenever she had been making trouble
+with her fierce husband, and hide under it until his wrath was
+appeased. But these Kanakas will lie, and this statement is one
+of their ablest efforts&mdash;for Kaahumanu was six feet high&mdash;she was
+bulky&mdash;she was built like an ox&mdash;and she could no more have
+squeezed herself under that rock than she could have passed
+between the cylinders of a sugar mill. What could she gain by it,
+even if she succeeded? To be chased and abused by a savage
+husband could not be otherwise than humiliating to her high
+spirit, yet it could never make her feel so flat as an hour's
+repose under that rock would.</p>
+
+<p>We walked a mile over a raised macadamized road of uniform
+width; a road paved with flat stones and exhibiting in its every
+detail a considerable degree of engineering skill. Some say that
+that wise old pagan, Kamehameha I planned and built it, but
+others say it was built so long before his time that the
+knowledge of who constructed it has passed out of the traditions.
+In either case, however, as the handiwork of an untaught and
+degraded race it is a thing of pleasing interest. The stones are
+worn and smooth, and pushed apart in places, so that the road has
+the exact appearance of those ancient paved highways leading out
+of Rome which one sees in pictures.</p>
+
+<p>The object of our tramp was to visit a great natural curiosity
+at the base of the foothills&mdash;a congealed cascade of lava. Some
+old forgotten volcanic eruption sent its broad river of fire down
+the mountain side here, and it poured down in a great torrent
+from an overhanging bluff some fifty feet high to the ground
+below. The flaming torrent cooled in the winds from the sea, and
+remains there to-day, all seamed, and frothed and rippled a
+petrified Niagara. It is very picturesque, and withal so natural
+that one might almost imagine it still flowed. A smaller stream
+trickled over the cliff and built up an isolated pyramid about
+thirty feet high, which has the semblance of a mass of large
+gnarled and knotted vines and roots and stems intricately twisted
+and woven together.</p>
+
+<p>We passed in behind the cascade and the pyramid, and found the
+bluff pierced by several cavernous tunnels, whose crooked courses
+we followed a long distance.</p>
+
+<p>Two of these winding tunnels stand as proof of Nature's mining
+abilities. Their floors are level, they are seven feet wide, and
+their roofs are gently arched. Their height is not uniform,
+however. We passed through one a hundred feet long, which leads
+through a spur of the hill and opens out well up in the sheer
+wall of a precipice whose foot rests in the waves of the sea. It
+is a commodious tunnel, except that there are occasional places
+in it where one must stoop to pass under. The roof is lava, of
+course, and is thickly studded with little lava-pointed icicles
+an inch long, which hardened as they dripped. They project as
+closely together as the iron teeth of a corn-sheller, and if one
+will stand up straight and walk any distance there, he can get
+his hair combed free of charge.</p>
+
+<a name="531"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="531.jpg (55K)" src="images/531.jpg" height="350" width="494">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch74"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXIV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>We got back to the schooner in good time, and then sailed down
+to Kau, where we disembarked and took final leave of the vessel.
+Next day we bought horses and bent our way over the summer-clad
+mountain-terraces, toward the great volcano of Kilauea
+(Ke-low-way-ah). We made nearly a two days' journey of it, but
+that was on account of laziness. Toward sunset on the second day,
+we reached an elevation of some four thousand feet above sea
+level, and as we picked our careful way through billowy wastes of
+lava long generations ago stricken dead and cold in the climax of
+its tossing fury, we began to come upon signs of the near
+presence of the volcano&mdash;signs in the nature of ragged fissures
+that discharged jets of sulphurous vapor into the air, hot from
+the molten ocean down in the bowels of the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly the crater came into view. I have seen Vesuvius since,
+but it was a mere toy, a child's volcano, a soup-kettle, compared
+to this. Mount Vesuvius is a shapely cone thirty-six hundred feet
+high; its crater an inverted cone only three hundred feet deep,
+and not more than a thousand feet in diameter, if as much as
+that; its fires meagre, modest, and docile.&mdash;But here was a vast,
+perpendicular, walled cellar, nine hundred feet deep in some
+places, thirteen hundred in others, level- floored, and ten miles
+in circumference! Here was a yawning pit upon whose floor the
+armies of Russia could camp, and have room to spare.</p>
+
+<p>Perched upon the edge of the crater, at the opposite end from
+where we stood, was a small look-out house&mdash;say three miles away.
+It assisted us, by comparison, to comprehend and appreciate the
+great depth of the basin&mdash;it looked like a tiny martin-box
+clinging at the eaves of a cathedral. After some little time
+spent in resting and looking and ciphering, we hurried on to the
+hotel.</p>
+
+<p>By the path it is half a mile from the Volcano House to the
+lookout- house. After a hearty supper we waited until it was
+thoroughly dark and then started to the crater. The first glance
+in that direction revealed a scene of wild beauty. There was a
+heavy fog over the crater and it was splendidly illuminated by
+the glare from the fires below. The illumination was two miles
+wide and a mile high, perhaps; and if you ever, on a dark night
+and at a distance beheld the light from thirty or forty blocks of
+distant buildings all on fire at once, reflected strongly against
+over-hanging clouds, you can form a fair idea of what this looked
+like.</p>
+
+<a name="533"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="533.jpg (37K)" src="images/533.jpg" height="475" width="314">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>A colossal column of cloud towered to a great height in the
+air immediately above the crater, and the outer swell of every
+one of its vast folds was dyed with a rich crimson luster, which
+was subdued to a pale rose tint in the depressions between. It
+glowed like a muffled torch and stretched upward to a dizzy
+height toward the zenith. I thought it just possible that its
+like had not been seen since the children of Israel wandered on
+their long march through the desert so many centuries ago over a
+path illuminated by the mysterious "pillar of fire." And I was
+sure that I now had a vivid conception of what the majestic
+"pillar of fire" was like, which almost amounted to a
+revelation.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at the little thatched lookout house, we rested our
+elbows on the railing in front and looked abroad over the wide
+crater and down over the sheer precipice at the seething fires
+beneath us. The view was a startling improvement on my daylight
+experience. I turned to see the effect on the balance of the
+company and found the reddest-faced set of men I almost ever saw.
+In the strong light every countenance glowed like red-hot iron,
+every shoulder was suffused with crimson and shaded rearward into
+dingy, shapeless obscurity! The place below looked like the
+infernal regions and these men like half-cooled devils just come
+up on a furlough.</p>
+
+<p>I turned my eyes upon the volcano again. The "cellar" was
+tolerably well lighted up. For a mile and a half in front of us
+and half a mile on either side, the floor of the abyss was
+magnificently illuminated; beyond these limits the mists hung
+down their gauzy curtains and cast a deceptive gloom over all
+that made the twinkling fires in the remote corners of the crater
+seem countless leagues removed&mdash;made them seem like the
+camp-fires of a great army far away. Here was room for the
+imagination to work! You could imagine those lights the width of
+a continent away&mdash;and that hidden under the intervening darkness
+were hills, and winding rivers, and weary wastes of plain and
+desert&mdash;and even then the tremendous vista stretched on, and on,
+and on!&mdash;to the fires and far beyond! You could not compass
+it&mdash;it was the idea of eternity made tangible&mdash;and the longest
+end of it made visible to the naked eye!</p>
+
+<a name="535"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="535.jpg (125K)" src="images/535.jpg" height="693" width="569">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The greater part of the vast floor of the desert under us was
+as black as ink, and apparently smooth and level; but over a mile
+square of it was ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand
+branching streams of liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire! It
+looked like a colossal railroad map of the State of Massachusetts
+done in chain lightning on a midnight sky. Imagine it&mdash;imagine a
+coal-black sky shivered into a tangled net- work of angry
+fire!</p>
+
+<p>Here and there were gleaming holes a hundred feet in diameter,
+broken in the dark crust, and in them the melted lava&mdash;the color
+a dazzling white just tinged with yellow&mdash;was boiling and surging
+furiously; and from these holes branched numberless bright
+torrents in many directions, like the spokes of a wheel, and kept
+a tolerably straight course for a while and then swept round in
+huge rainbow curves, or made a long succession of sharp
+worm-fence angles, which looked precisely like the fiercest
+jagged lightning. These streams met other streams, and they
+mingled with and crossed and recrossed each other in every
+conceivable direction, like skate tracks on a popular skating
+ground. Sometimes streams twenty or thirty feet wide flowed from
+the holes to some distance without dividing&mdash;and through the
+opera-glasses we could see that they ran down small, steep hills
+and were genuine cataracts of fire, white at their source, but
+soon cooling and turning to the richest red, grained with
+alternate lines of black and gold. Every now and then masses of
+the dark crust broke away and floated slowly down these streams
+like rafts down a river. Occasionally the molten lava flowing
+under the superincumbent crust broke through&mdash;split a dazzling
+streak, from five hundred to a thousand feet long, like a sudden
+flash of lightning, and then acre after acre of the cold lava
+parted into fragments, turned up edgewise like cakes of ice when
+a great river breaks up, plunged downward and were swallowed in
+the crimson cauldron. Then the wide expanse of the "thaw"
+maintained a ruddy glow for a while, but shortly cooled and
+became black and level again. During a "thaw," every dismembered
+cake was marked by a glittering white border which was superbly
+shaded inward by aurora borealis rays, which were a flaming
+yellow where they joined the white border, and from thence toward
+their points tapered into glowing crimson, then into a rich, pale
+carmine, and finally into a faint blush that held its own a
+moment and then dimmed and turned black. Some of the streams
+preferred to mingle together in a tangle of fantastic circles,
+and then they looked something like the confusion of ropes one
+sees on a ship's deck when she has just taken in sail and dropped
+anchor&mdash;provided one can imagine those ropes on fire.</p>
+
+<p>Through the glasses, the little fountains scattered about
+looked very beautiful. They boiled, and coughed, and spluttered,
+and discharged sprays of stringy red fire&mdash;of about the
+consistency of mush, for instance&mdash;from ten to fifteen feet into
+the air, along with a shower of brilliant white sparks&mdash;a quaint
+and unnatural mingling of gouts of blood and snow-flakes!</p>
+
+<p>We had circles and serpents and streaks of lightning all
+twined and wreathed and tied together, without a break throughout
+an area more than a mile square (that amount of ground was
+covered, though it was not strictly "square"), and it was with a
+feeling of placid exultation that we reflected that many years
+had elapsed since any visitor had seen such a splendid
+display&mdash;since any visitor had seen anything more than the now
+snubbed and insignificant "North" and "South" lakes in action. We
+had been reading old files of Hawaiian newspapers and the "Record
+Book" at the Volcano House, and were posted.</p>
+
+<p>I could see the North Lake lying out on the black floor away
+off in the outer edge of our panorama, and knitted to it by a
+web-work of lava streams. In its individual capacity it looked
+very little more respectable than a schoolhouse on fire. True, it
+was about nine hundred feet long and two or three hundred wide,
+but then, under the present circumstances, it necessarily
+appeared rather insignificant, and besides it was so distant from
+us.</p>
+
+<p>I forgot to say that the noise made by the bubbling lava is
+not great, heard as we heard it from our lofty perch. It makes
+three distinct sounds&mdash;a rushing, a hissing, and a coughing or
+puffing sound; and if you stand on the brink and close your eyes
+it is no trick at all to imagine that you are sweeping down a
+river on a large low-pressure steamer, and that you hear the
+hissing of the steam about her boilers, the puffing from her
+escape-pipes and the churning rush of the water abaft her wheels.
+The smell of sulphur is strong, but not unpleasant to a
+sinner.</p>
+
+<p>We left the lookout house at ten o'clock in a half cooked
+condition, because of the heat from Pele's furnaces, and wrapping
+up in blankets, for the night was cold, we returned to our
+Hotel.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch75"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>The next night was appointed for a visit to the bottom of the
+crater, for we desired to traverse its floor and see the "North
+Lake" (of fire) which lay two miles away, toward the further
+wall. After dark half a dozen of us set out, with lanterns and
+native guides, and climbed down a crazy, thousand-foot pathway in
+a crevice fractured in the crater wall, and reached the bottom in
+safety.</p>
+
+<p>The irruption of the previous evening had spent its force and
+the floor looked black and cold; but when we ran out upon it we
+found it hot yet, to the feet, and it was likewise riven with
+crevices which revealed the underlying fires gleaming
+vindictively. A neighboring cauldron was threatening to overflow,
+and this added to the dubiousness of the situation. So the native
+guides refused to continue the venture, and then every body
+deserted except a stranger named Marlette. He said he had been in
+the crater a dozen times in daylight and believed he could find
+his way through it at night. He thought that a run of three
+hundred yards would carry us over the hottest part of the floor
+and leave us our shoe-soles. His pluck gave me back-bone. We took
+one lantern and instructed the guides to hang the other to the
+roof of the look-out house to serve as a beacon for us in case we
+got lost, and then the party started back up the precipice and
+Marlette and I made our run. We skipped over the hot floor and
+over the red crevices with brisk dispatch and reached the cold
+lava safe but with pretty warm feet. Then we took things
+leisurely and comfortably, jumping tolerably wide and probably
+bottomless chasms, and threading our way through picturesque lava
+upheavals with considerable confidence. When we got fairly away
+from the cauldrons of boiling fire, we seemed to be in a gloomy
+desert, and a suffocatingly dark one, surrounded by dim walls
+that seemed to tower to the sky. The only cheerful objects were
+the glinting stars high overhead.</p>
+
+<p>By and by Marlette shouted "Stop!" I never stopped quicker in
+my life. I asked what the matter was. He said we were out of the
+path. He said we must not try to go on till we found it again,
+for we were surrounded with beds of rotten lava through which we
+could easily break and plunge down a thousand feet. I thought
+eight hundred would answer for me, and was about to say so when
+Marlette partly proved his statement by accidentally crushing
+through and disappearing to his arm-pits.</p>
+
+<a name="539"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="539.jpg (43K)" src="images/539.jpg" height="334" width="478">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>He got out and we hunted for the path with the lantern. He
+said there was only one path and that it was but vaguely defined.
+We could not find it. The lava surface was all alike in the
+lantern light. But he was an ingenious man. He said it was not
+the lantern that had informed him that we were out of the path,
+but his feet. He had noticed a crisp grinding of fine
+lava-needles under his feet, and some instinct reminded him that
+in the path these were all worn away. So he put the lantern
+behind him, and began to search with his boots instead of his
+eyes. It was good sagacity. The first time his foot touched a
+surface that did not grind under it he announced that the trail
+was found again; and after that we kept up a sharp listening for
+the rasping sound and it always warned us in time.</p>
+
+<p>It was a long tramp, but an exciting one. We reached the North
+Lake between ten and eleven o'clock, and sat down on a huge
+overhanging lava- shelf, tired but satisfied. The spectacle
+presented was worth coming double the distance to see. Under us,
+and stretching away before us, was a heaving sea of molten fire
+of seemingly limitless extent. The glare from it was so blinding
+that it was some time before we could bear to look upon it
+steadily.</p>
+
+<p>It was like gazing at the sun at noon-day, except that the
+glare was not quite so white. At unequal distances all around the
+shores of the lake were nearly white-hot chimneys or hollow drums
+of lava, four or five feet high, and up through them were
+bursting gorgeous sprays of lava-gouts and gem spangles, some
+white, some red and some golden&mdash;a ceaseless bombardment, and one
+that fascinated the eye with its unapproachable splendor. The
+mere distant jets, sparkling up through an intervening gossamer
+veil of vapor, seemed miles away; and the further the curving
+ranks of fiery fountains receded, the more fairy-like and
+beautiful they appeared.</p>
+
+<a name="540"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="540.jpg (78K)" src="images/540.jpg" height="454" width="574">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Now and then the surging bosom of the lake under our noses
+would calm down ominously and seem to be gathering strength for
+an enterprise; and then all of a sudden a red dome of lava of the
+bulk of an ordinary dwelling would heave itself aloft like an
+escaping balloon, then burst asunder, and out of its heart would
+flit a pale-green film of vapor, and float upward and vanish in
+the darkness&mdash;a released soul soaring homeward from captivity
+with the damned, no doubt. The crashing plunge of the ruined dome
+into the lake again would send a world of seething billows
+lashing against the shores and shaking the foundations of our
+perch. By and by, a loosened mass of the hanging shelf we sat on
+tumbled into the lake, jarring the surroundings like an
+earthquake and delivering a suggestion that may have been
+intended for a hint, and may not. We did not wait to see.</p>
+
+<p>We got lost again on our way back, and were more than an hour
+hunting for the path. We were where we could see the beacon
+lantern at the look-out house at the time, but thought it was a
+star and paid no attention to it. We reached the hotel at two
+o'clock in the morning pretty well fagged out.</p>
+
+<p>Kilauea never overflows its vast crater, but bursts a passage
+for its lava through the mountain side when relief is necessary,
+and then the destruction is fearful. About 1840 it rent its
+overburdened stomach and sent a broad river of fire careering
+down to the sea, which swept away forests, huts, plantations and
+every thing else that lay in its path. The stream was five miles
+broad, in places, and two hundred feet deep, and the distance it
+traveled was forty miles. It tore up and bore away acre-patches
+of land on its bosom like rafts&mdash;rocks, trees and all intact. At
+night the red glare was visible a hundred miles at sea; and at a
+distance of forty miles fine print could be read at midnight. The
+atmosphere was poisoned with sulphurous vapors and choked with
+falling ashes, pumice stones and cinders; countless columns of
+smoke rose up and blended together in a tumbled canopy that hid
+the heavens and glowed with a ruddy flush reflected from the
+fires below; here and there jets of lava sprung hundreds of feet
+into the air and burst into rocket-sprays that returned to earth
+in a crimson rain; and all the while the laboring mountain shook
+with Nature's great palsy and voiced its distress in moanings and
+the muffled booming of subterranean thunders.</p>
+
+<a name="542"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="542.jpg (103K)" src="images/542.jpg" height="444" width="734">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Fishes were killed for twenty miles along the shore, where the
+lava entered the sea. The earthquakes caused some loss of human
+life, and a prodigious tidal wave swept inland, carrying every
+thing before it and drowning a number of natives. The devastation
+consummated along the route traversed by the river of lava was
+complete and incalculable. Only a Pompeii and a Herculaneum were
+needed at the foot of Kilauea to make the story of the irruption
+immortal.</p>
+
+<a name="543"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="543.jpg (113K)" src="images/543.jpg" height="480" width="729">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch76"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXVI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>We rode horseback all around the island of Hawaii (the crooked
+road making the distance two hundred miles), and enjoyed the
+journey very much. We were more than a week making the trip,
+because our Kanaka horses would not go by a house or a hut
+without stopping&mdash;whip and spur could not alter their minds about
+it, and so we finally found that it economized time to let them
+have their way. Upon inquiry the mystery was explained: the
+natives are such thorough-going gossips that they never pass a
+house without stopping to swap news, and consequently their
+horses learn to regard that sort of thing as an essential part of
+the whole duty of man, and his salvation not to be compassed
+without it. However, at a former crisis of my life I had once
+taken an aristocratic young lady out driving, behind a horse that
+had just retired from a long and honorable career as the moving
+impulse of a milk wagon, and so this present experience awoke a
+reminiscent sadness in me in place of the exasperation more
+natural to the occasion. I remembered how helpless I was that
+day, and how humiliated; how ashamed I was of having intimated to
+the girl that I had always owned the horse and was accustomed to
+grandeur; how hard I tried to appear easy, and even vivacious,
+under suffering that was consuming my vitals; how placidly and
+maliciously the girl smiled, and kept on smiling, while my hot
+blushes baked themselves into a permanent blood-pudding in my
+face; how the horse ambled from one side of the street to the
+other and waited complacently before every third house two
+minutes and a quarter while I belabored his back and reviled him
+in my heart; how I tried to keep him from turning corners and
+failed; how I moved heaven and earth to get him out of town, and
+did not succeed; how he traversed the entire settlement and
+delivered imaginary milk at a hundred and sixty-two different
+domiciles, and how he finally brought up at a dairy depot and
+refused to budge further, thus rounding and completing the
+revealment of what the plebeian service of his life had been;
+how, in eloquent silence, I walked the girl home, and how, when I
+took leave of her, her parting remark scorched my soul and
+appeared to blister me all over: she said that my horse was a
+fine, capable animal, and I must have taken great comfort in him
+in my time&mdash;but that if I would take along some milk-tickets next
+time, and appear to deliver them at the various halting places,
+it might expedite his movements a little. There was a coolness
+between us after that.</p>
+
+<a name="545"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="545.jpg (90K)" src="images/545.jpg" height="493" width="616">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>In one place in the island of Hawaii, we saw a laced and
+ruffled cataract of limpid water leaping from a sheer precipice
+fifteen hundred feet high; but that sort of scenery finds its
+stanchest ally in the arithmetic rather than in spectacular
+effect. If one desires to be so stirred by a poem of Nature
+wrought in the happily commingled graces of picturesque rocks,
+glimpsed distances, foliage, color, shifting lights and shadows,
+and failing water, that the tears almost come into his eyes so
+potent is the charm exerted, he need not go away from America to
+enjoy such an experience. The Rainbow Fall, in Watkins Glen
+(N.Y.), on the Erie railway, is an example. It would recede into
+pitiable insignificance if the callous tourist drew on arithmetic
+on it; but left to compete for the honors simply on scenic grace
+and beauty&mdash;the grand, the august and the sublime being barred
+the contest&mdash;it could challenge the old world and the new to
+produce its peer.</p>
+
+<p>In one locality, on our journey, we saw some horses that had
+been born and reared on top of the mountains, above the range of
+running water, and consequently they had never drank that fluid
+in their lives, but had been always accustomed to quenching their
+thirst by eating dew-laden or shower-wetted leaves. And now it
+was destructively funny to see them sniff suspiciously at a pail
+of water, and then put in their noses and try to take a bite out
+of the fluid, as if it were a solid. Finding it liquid, they
+would snatch away their heads and fall to trembling, snorting and
+showing other evidences of fright. When they became convinced at
+last that the water was friendly and harmless, they thrust in
+their noses up to their eyes, brought out a mouthful of water,
+and proceeded to chew it complacently. We saw a man coax, kick
+and spur one of them five or ten minutes before he could make it
+cross a running stream. It spread its nostrils, distended its
+eyes and trembled all over, just as horses customarily do in the
+presence of a serpent&mdash;and for aught I know it thought the
+crawling stream was a serpent.</p>
+
+<p>In due course of time our journey came to an end at Kawaehae
+(usually pronounced To-a-hi&mdash;and before we find fault with this
+elaborate orthographical method of arriving at such an
+unostentatious result, let us lop off the ugh from our word
+"though"). I made this horseback trip on a mule. I paid ten
+dollars for him at Kau (Kah-oo), added four to get him shod, rode
+him two hundred miles, and then sold him for fifteen dollars. I
+mark the circumstance with a white stone (in the absence of
+chalk&mdash;for I never saw a white stone that a body could mark
+anything with, though out of respect for the ancients I have
+tried it often enough); for up to that day and date it was the
+first strictly commercial transaction I had ever entered into,
+and come out winner. We returned to Honolulu, and from thence
+sailed to the island of Maui, and spent several weeks there very
+pleasantly. I still remember, with a sense of indolent luxury, a
+picnicing excursion up a romantic gorge there, called the Iao
+Valley. The trail lay along the edge of a brawling stream in the
+bottom of the gorge&mdash;a shady route, for it was well roofed with
+the verdant domes of forest trees. Through openings in the
+foliage we glimpsed picturesque scenery that revealed ceaseless
+changes and new charms with every step of our progress.
+Perpendicular walls from one to three thousand feet high guarded
+the way, and were sumptuously plumed with varied foliage, in
+places, and in places swathed in waving ferns. Passing shreds of
+cloud trailed their shadows across these shining fronts, mottling
+them with blots; billowy masses of white vapor hid the turreted
+summits, and far above the vapor swelled a background of gleaming
+green crags and cones that came and went, through the veiling
+mists, like islands drifting in a fog; sometimes the cloudy
+curtain descended till half the canon wall was hidden, then
+shredded gradually away till only airy glimpses of the ferny
+front appeared through it&mdash;then swept aloft and left it glorified
+in the sun again. Now and then, as our position changed, rocky
+bastions swung out from the wall, a mimic ruin of castellated
+ramparts and crumbling towers clothed with mosses and hung with
+garlands of swaying vines, and as we moved on they swung back
+again and hid themselves once more in the foliage. Presently a
+verdure-clad needle of stone, a thousand feet high, stepped out
+from behind a corner, and mounted guard over the mysteries of the
+valley. It seemed to me that if Captain Cook needed a monument,
+here was one ready made&mdash;therefore, why not put up his sign here,
+and sell out the venerable cocoanut stump?</p>
+
+<a name="547"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="547.jpg (192K)" src="images/547.jpg" height="907" width="586">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>But the chief pride of Maui is her dead volcano of
+Haleakala&mdash;which means, translated, "the house of the sun." We
+climbed a thousand feet up the side of this isolated colossus one
+afternoon; then camped, and next day climbed the remaining nine
+thousand feet, and anchored on the summit, where we built a fire
+and froze and roasted by turns, all night. With the first pallor
+of dawn we got up and saw things that were new to us. Mounted on
+a commanding pinnacle, we watched Nature work her silent wonders.
+The sea was spread abroad on every hand, its tumbled surface
+seeming only wrinkled and dimpled in the distance. A broad valley
+below appeared like an ample checker-board, its velvety green
+sugar plantations alternating with dun squares of barrenness and
+groves of trees diminished to mossy tufts. Beyond the valley were
+mountains picturesquely grouped together; but bear in mind, we
+fancied that we were looking up at these things&mdash;not down. We
+seemed to sit in the bottom of a symmetrical bowl ten thousand
+feet deep, with the valley and the skirting sea lifted away into
+the sky above us! It was curious; and not only curious, but
+aggravating; for it was having our trouble all for nothing, to
+climb ten thousand feet toward heaven and then have to look up at
+our scenery. However, we had to be content with it and make the
+best of it; for, all we could do we could not coax our landscape
+down out of the clouds. Formerly, when I had read an article in
+which Poe treated of this singular fraud perpetrated upon the eye
+by isolated great altitudes, I had looked upon the matter as an
+invention of his own fancy.</p>
+
+<p>I have spoken of the outside view&mdash;but we had an inside one,
+too. That was the yawning dead crater, into which we now and then
+tumbled rocks, half as large as a barrel, from our perch, and saw
+them go careering down the almost perpendicular sides, bounding
+three hundred feet at a jump; kicking up cast-clouds wherever
+they struck; diminishing to our view as they sped farther into
+distance; growing invisible, finally, and only betraying their
+course by faint little puffs of dust; and coming to a halt at
+last in the bottom of the abyss, two thousand five hundred feet
+down from where they started! It was magnificent sport. We wore
+ourselves out at it.</p>
+
+<a name="549"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="549.jpg (138K)" src="images/549.jpg" height="791" width="589">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The crater of Vesuvius, as I have before remarked, is a modest
+pit about a thousand feet deep and three thousand in
+circumference; that of Kilauea is somewhat deeper, and ten miles
+in circumference. But what are either of them compared to the
+vacant stomach of Haleakala? I will not offer any figures of my
+own, but give official ones&mdash;those of Commander Wilkes, U.S.N.,
+who surveyed it and testifies that it is twenty-seven miles in
+circumference! If it had a level bottom it would make a fine site
+for a city like London. It must have afforded a spectacle worth
+contemplating in the old days when its furnaces gave full rein to
+their anger.</p>
+
+<p>Presently vagrant white clouds came drifting along, high over
+the sea and the valley; then they came in couples and groups;
+then in imposing squadrons; gradually joining their forces, they
+banked themselves solidly together, a thousand feet under us, and
+totally shut out land and ocean&mdash;not a vestige of anything was
+left in view but just a little of the rim of the crater, circling
+away from the pinnacle whereon we sat (for a ghostly procession
+of wanderers from the filmy hosts without had drifted through a
+chasm in the crater wall and filed round and round, and gathered
+and sunk and blended together till the abyss was stored to the
+brim with a fleecy fog). Thus banked, motion ceased, and silence
+reigned. Clear to the horizon, league on league, the snowy floor
+stretched without a break&mdash;not level, but in rounded folds, with
+shallow creases between, and with here and there stately piles of
+vapory architecture lifting themselves aloft out of the common
+plain&mdash;some near at hand, some in the middle distances, and
+others relieving the monotony of the remote solitudes. There was
+little conversation, for the impressive scene overawed speech. I
+felt like the Last Man, neglected of the judgment, and left
+pinnacled in mid-heaven, a forgotten relic of a vanished
+world.</p>
+
+<p>While the hush yet brooded, the messengers of the coming
+resurrection appeared in the East. A growing warmth suffused the
+horizon, and soon the sun emerged and looked out over the
+cloud-waste, flinging bars of ruddy light across it, staining its
+folds and billow-caps with blushes, purpling the shaded troughs
+between, and glorifying the massy vapor- palaces and cathedrals
+with a wasteful splendor of all blendings and combinations of
+rich coloring.</p>
+
+<p>It was the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed, and I think
+the memory of it will remain with me always.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch77"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXVII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>I stumbled upon one curious character in the Island of Mani.
+He became a sore annoyance to me in the course of time. My first
+glimpse of him was in a sort of public room in the town of
+Lahaina. He occupied a chair at the opposite side of the
+apartment, and sat eyeing our party with interest for some
+minutes, and listening as critically to what we were saying as if
+he fancied we were talking to him and expecting him to reply. I
+thought it very sociable in a stranger. Presently, in the course
+of conversation, I made a statement bearing upon the subject
+under discussion&mdash;and I made it with due modesty, for there was
+nothing extraordinary about it, and it was only put forth in
+illustration of a point at issue. I had barely finished when this
+person spoke out with rapid utterance and feverish anxiety:</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, that was certainly remarkable, after a fashion, but you
+ought to have seen my chimney&mdash;you ought to have seen my chimney,
+sir! Smoke! I wish I may hang if&mdash;Mr. Jones, you remember that
+chimney&mdash;you must remember that chimney! No, no&mdash;I recollect,
+now, you warn't living on this side of the island then. But I am
+telling you nothing but the truth, and I wish I may never draw
+another breath if that chimney didn't smoke so that the smoke
+actually got caked in it and I had to dig it out with a pickaxe!
+You may smile, gentlemen, but the High Sheriff's got a hunk of it
+which I dug out before his eyes, and so it's perfectly easy for
+you to go and examine for yourselves."</p>
+
+<p>The interruption broke up the conversation, which had already
+begun to lag, and we presently hired some natives and an
+out-rigger canoe or two, and went out to overlook a grand
+surf-bathing contest.</p>
+
+<p>Two weeks after this, while talking in a company, I looked up
+and detected this same man boring through and through me with his
+intense eye, and noted again his twitching muscles and his
+feverish anxiety to speak. The moment I paused, he said:</p>
+
+<p>"Beg your pardon, sir, beg your pardon, but it can only be
+considered remarkable when brought into strong outline by
+isolation. Sir, contrasted with a circumstance which occurred in
+my own experience, it instantly becomes commonplace. No, not
+that&mdash;for I will not speak so discourteously of any experience in
+the career of a stranger and a gentleman&mdash;but I am obliged to say
+that you could not, and you would not ever again refer to this
+tree as a large one, if you could behold, as I have, the great
+Yakmatack tree, in the island of Ounaska, sea of Kamtchatka&mdash;a
+tree, sir, not one inch less than four hundred and fifteen feet
+in solid diameter!&mdash;and I wish I may die in a minute if it isn't
+so! Oh, you needn't look so questioning, gentlemen; here's old
+Cap Saltmarsh can say whether I know what I'm talking about or
+not. I showed him the tree."</p>
+
+<p>Captain Saltmarsh&mdash;"Come, now, cat your anchor, lad&mdash;you're
+heaving too taut. You promised to show me that stunner, and I
+walked more than eleven mile with you through the cussedest
+jungle I ever see, a hunting for it; but the tree you showed me
+finally warn't as big around as a beer cask, and you know that
+your own self, Markiss."</p>
+
+<a name="553"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="553.jpg (48K)" src="images/553.jpg" height="430" width="431">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"Hear the man talk! Of course the tree was reduced that way,
+but didn't I explain it? Answer me, didn't I? Didn't I say I
+wished you could have seen it when I first saw it? When you got
+up on your ear and called me names, and said I had brought you
+eleven miles to look at a sapling, didn't I explain to you that
+all the whale-ships in the North Seas had been wooding off of it
+for more than twenty-seven years? And did you s'pose the tree
+could last for-ever, con-found it? I don't see why you want to
+keep back things that way, and try to injure a person that's
+never done you any harm."</p>
+
+<p>Somehow this man's presence made me uncomfortable, and I was
+glad when a native arrived at that moment to say that Muckawow,
+the most companionable and luxurious among the rude war-chiefs of
+the Islands, desired us to come over and help him enjoy a
+missionary whom he had found trespassing on his grounds.</p>
+
+<p>I think it was about ten days afterward that, as I finished a
+statement I was making for the instruction of a group of friends
+and acquaintances, and which made no pretence of being
+extraordinary, a familiar voice chimed instantly in on the heels
+of my last word, and said:</p>
+
+<p>"But, my dear sir, there was nothing remarkable about that
+horse, or the circumstance either&mdash;nothing in the world! I mean
+no sort of offence when I say it, sir, but you really do not know
+anything whatever about speed. Bless your heart, if you could
+only have seen my mare Margaretta; there was a beast!&mdash;there was
+lightning for you! Trot! Trot is no name for it&mdash;she flew! How
+she could whirl a buggy along! I started her out once,
+sir&mdash;Colonel Bilgewater, you recollect that animal perfectly
+well&mdash;I started her out about thirty or thirty-five yards ahead
+of the awfullest storm I ever saw in my life, and it chased us
+upwards of eighteen miles! It did, by the everlasting hills! And
+I'm telling you nothing but the unvarnished truth when I say that
+not one single drop of rain fell on me&mdash;not a single drop, sir!
+And I swear to it! But my dog was a-swimming behind the wagon all
+the way!"</p>
+
+<a name="554"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="554.jpg (76K)" src="images/554.jpg" height="408" width="601">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>For a week or two I stayed mostly within doors, for I seemed
+to meet this person everywhere, and he had become utterly hateful
+to me. But one evening I dropped in on Captain Perkins and his
+friends, and we had a sociable time. About ten o'clock I chanced
+to be talking about a merchant friend of mine, and without really
+intending it, the remark slipped out that he was a little mean
+and parsimonious about paying his workmen. Instantly, through the
+steam of a hot whiskey punch on the opposite side of the room, a
+remembered voice shot&mdash;and for a moment I trembled on the
+imminent verge of profanity:</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, my dear sir, really you expose yourself when you parade
+that as a surprising circumstance. Bless your heart and hide, you
+are ignorant of the very A B C of meanness! ignorant as the
+unborn babe! ignorant as unborn twins! You don't know anything
+about it! It is pitiable to see you, sir, a well-spoken and
+prepossessing stranger, making such an enormous pow-wow here
+about a subject concerning which your ignorance is perfectly
+humiliating! Look me in the eye, if you please; look me in the
+eye. John James Godfrey was the son of poor but honest parents in
+the State of Mississippi&mdash;boyhood friend of mine&mdash;bosom comrade
+in later years. Heaven rest his noble spirit, he is gone from us
+now. John James Godfrey was hired by the Hayblossom Mining
+Company in California to do some blasting for them&mdash;the
+"Incorporated Company of Mean Men," the boys used to call it.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, one day he drilled a hole about four feet deep and put
+in an awful blast of powder, and was standing over it ramming it
+down with an iron crowbar about nine foot long, when the cussed
+thing struck a spark and fired the powder, and scat! away John
+Godfrey whizzed like a skyrocket, him and his crowbar! Well, sir,
+he kept on going up in the air higher and higher, till he didn't
+look any bigger than a boy&mdash;and he kept going on up higher and
+higher, till he didn't look any bigger than a doll&mdash;and he kept
+on going up higher and higher, till he didn't look any bigger
+than a little small bee&mdash;and then he went out of sight! Presently
+he came in sight again, looking like a little small bee&mdash;and he
+came along down further and further, till he looked as big as a
+doll again&mdash;and down further and further, till he was as big as a
+boy again&mdash;and further and further, till he was a full-sized man
+once more; and then him and his crowbar came a wh-izzing down and
+lit right exactly in the same old tracks and went to r-ramming
+down, and r-ramming down, and r-ramming down again, just the same
+as if nothing had happened! Now do you know, that poor cuss
+warn't gone only sixteen minutes, and yet that Incorporated
+Company of Mean Men DOCKED HIM FOR THE LOST TIME!"</p>
+
+<a name="555"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="555.jpg (42K)" src="images/555.jpg" height="492" width="295">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I said I had the headache, and so excused myself and went
+home. And on my diary I entered "another night spoiled" by this
+offensive loafer. And a fervent curse was set down with it to
+keep the item company. And the very next day I packed up, out of
+all patience, and left the Island.</p>
+
+<p>Almost from the very beginning, I regarded that man as a
+liar.</p>
+
+<p>The line of points represents an interval of years. At the end
+of which time the opinion hazarded in that last sentence came to
+be gratifyingly and remarkably endorsed, and by wholly
+disinterested persons. The man Markiss was found one morning
+hanging to a beam of his own bedroom (the doors and windows
+securely fastened on the inside), dead; and on his breast was
+pinned a paper in his own handwriting begging his friends to
+suspect no innocent person of having any thing to do with his
+death, for that it was the work of his own hands entirely. Yet
+the jury brought in the astounding verdict that deceased came to
+his death "by the hands of some person or persons unknown!" They
+explained that the perfectly undeviating consistency of Markiss's
+character for thirty years towered aloft as colossal and
+indestructible testimony, that whatever statement he chose to
+make was entitled to instant and unquestioning acceptance as a
+lie. And they furthermore stated their belief that he was not
+dead, and instanced the strong circumstantial evidence of his own
+word that he was dead&mdash;and beseeched the coroner to delay the
+funeral as long as possible, which was done. And so in the
+tropical climate of Lahaina the coffin stood open for seven days,
+and then even the loyal jury gave him up. But they sat on him
+again, and changed their verdict to "suicide induced by mental
+aberration"&mdash;because, said they, with penetration, "he said he
+was dead, and he was dead; and would he have told the truth if he
+had been in his right mind? No, sir."</p>
+
+<a name="557"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="557.jpg (26K)" src="images/557.jpg" height="585" width="213">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch78"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>After half a year's luxurious vagrancy in the islands, I took
+shipping in a sailing vessel, and regretfully returned to San
+Francisco&mdash;a voyage in every way delightful, but without an
+incident: unless lying two long weeks in a dead calm, eighteen
+hundred miles from the nearest land, may rank as an incident.
+Schools of whales grew so tame that day after day they played
+about the ship among the porpoises and the sharks without the
+least apparent fear of us, and we pelted them with empty bottles
+for lack of better sport. Twenty-four hours afterward these
+bottles would be still lying on the glassy water under our noses,
+showing that the ship had not moved out of her place in all that
+time. The calm was absolutely breathless, and the surface of the
+sea absolutely without a wrinkle. For a whole day and part of a
+night we lay so close to another ship that had drifted to our
+vicinity, that we carried on conversations with her passengers,
+introduced each other by name, and became pretty intimately
+acquainted with people we had never heard of before, and have
+never heard of since. This was the only vessel we saw during the
+whole lonely voyage.
+</p>
+
+
+<a name="559"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="559.jpg (91K)" src="images/559.jpg" height="543" width="593">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<p>
+We had fifteen passengers, and to show how
+hard pressed they were at last for occupation and amusement, I
+will mention that the gentlemen gave a good part of their time
+every day, during the calm, to trying to sit on an empty
+champagne bottle (lying on its side), and thread a needle without
+touching their heels to the deck, or falling over; and the ladies
+sat in the shade of the mainsail, and watched the enterprise with
+absorbing interest. We were at sea five Sundays; and yet, but for
+the almanac, we never would have known but that all the other
+days were Sundays too.</p>
+
+<p>I was home again, in San Francisco, without means and without
+employment. I tortured my brain for a saving scheme of some kind,
+and at last a public lecture occurred to me! I sat down and wrote
+one, in a fever of hopeful anticipation. I showed it to several
+friends, but they all shook their heads. They said nobody would
+come to hear me, and I would make a humiliating failure of
+it.</p>
+
+<p>They said that as I had never spoken in public, I would break
+down in the delivery, anyhow. I was disconsolate now. But at last
+an editor slapped me on the back and told me to "go ahead." He
+said, "Take the largest house in town, and charge a dollar a
+ticket." The audacity of the proposition was charming; it seemed
+fraught with practical worldly wisdom, however. The proprietor of
+the several theatres endorsed the advice, and said I might have
+his handsome new opera-house at half price&mdash;fifty dollars. In
+sheer desperation I took it&mdash;on credit, for sufficient reasons.
+In three days I did a hundred and fifty dollars' worth of
+printing and advertising, and was the most distressed and
+frightened creature on the Pacific coast. I could not sleep&mdash;who
+could, under such circumstances? For other people there was
+facetiousness in the last line of my posters, but to me it was
+plaintive with a pang when I wrote it:</p>
+
+<p>"Doors open at 7 1/2. The trouble will begin at 8."</p>
+
+<p>That line has done good service since. Showmen have borrowed
+it frequently. I have even seen it appended to a newspaper
+advertisement reminding school pupils in vacation what time next
+term would begin. As those three days of suspense dragged by, I
+grew more and more unhappy. I had sold two hundred tickets among
+my personal friends, but I feared they might not come. My
+lecture, which had seemed "humorous" to me, at first, grew
+steadily more and more dreary, till not a vestige of fun seemed
+left, and I grieved that I could not bring a coffin on the stage
+and turn the thing into a funeral. I was so panic-stricken, at
+last, that I went to three old friends, giants in stature,
+cordial by nature, and stormy-voiced, and said:</p>
+
+<p>"This thing is going to be a failure; the jokes in it are so
+dim that nobody will ever see them; I would like to have you sit
+in the parquette, and help me through."</p>
+
+<p>They said they would. Then I went to the wife of a popular
+citizen, and said that if she was willing to do me a very great
+kindness, I would be glad if she and her husband would sit
+prominently in the left-hand stage- box, where the whole house
+could see them. I explained that I should need help, and would
+turn toward her and smile, as a signal, when I had been delivered
+of an obscure joke&mdash;"and then," I added, "don't wait to
+investigate, but respond!"</p>
+
+<p>She promised. Down the street I met a man I never had seen
+before. He had been drinking, and was beaming with smiles and
+good nature. He said:</p>
+
+<p>"My name's Sawyer. You don't know me, but that don't matter. I
+haven't got a cent, but if you knew how bad I wanted to laugh,
+you'd give me a ticket. Come, now, what do you say?"</p>
+
+<p>"Is your laugh hung on a hair-trigger?&mdash;that is, is it
+critical, or can you get it off easy?"</p>
+
+<p>My drawling infirmity of speech so affected him that he
+laughed a specimen or two that struck me as being about the
+article I wanted, and I gave him a ticket, and appointed him to
+sit in the second circle, in the centre, and be responsible for
+that division of the house. I gave him minute instructions about
+how to detect indistinct jokes, and then went away, and left him
+chuckling placidly over the novelty of the idea.</p>
+
+<p>I ate nothing on the last of the three eventful days&mdash;I only
+suffered. I had advertised that on this third day the box-office
+would be opened for the sale of reserved seats. I crept down to
+the theater at four in the afternoon to see if any sales had been
+made. The ticket seller was gone, the box-office was locked up. I
+had to swallow suddenly, or my heart would have got out. "No
+sales," I said to myself; "I might have known it." I thought of
+suicide, pretended illness, flight. I thought of these things in
+earnest, for I was very miserable and scared. But of course I had
+to drive them away, and prepare to meet my fate. I could not wait
+for half-past seven&mdash;I wanted to face the horror, and end
+it&mdash;the feeling of many a man doomed to hang, no doubt. I went down
+back streets at six o'clock, and entered the theatre by the back
+door. I stumbled my way in the dark among the ranks of canvas
+scenery, and stood on the stage. The house was gloomy and silent,
+and its emptiness depressing. I went into the dark among the
+scenes again, and for an hour and a half gave myself up to the
+horrors, wholly unconscious of everything else. Then I heard a
+murmur; it rose higher and higher, and ended in a crash, mingled
+with cheers. It made my hair raise, it was so close to me, and so
+loud.</p>
+
+<p>There was a pause, and then another; presently came a third,
+and before I well knew what I was about, I was in the middle of
+the stage, staring at a sea of faces, bewildered by the fierce
+glare of the lights, and quaking in every limb with a terror that
+seemed like to take my life away. The house was full, aisles and
+all!</p>
+
+<a name="561"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="561.jpg (45K)" src="images/561.jpg" height="580" width="330">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The tumult in my heart and brain and legs continued a full
+minute before I could gain any command over myself. Then I
+recognized the charity and the friendliness in the faces before
+me, and little by little my fright melted away, and I began to
+talk Within three or four minutes I was comfortable, and even
+content. My three chief allies, with three auxiliaries, were on
+hand, in the parquette, all sitting together, all armed with
+bludgeons, and all ready to make an onslaught upon the feeblest
+joke that might show its head. And whenever a joke did fall,
+their bludgeons came down and their faces seemed to split from
+ear to ear.</p>
+
+<a name="562"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="562.jpg (153K)" src="images/562.jpg" height="883" width="615">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Sawyer, whose hearty countenance was seen looming redly in the
+centre of the second circle, took it up, and the house was
+carried handsomely. Inferior jokes never fared so royally before.
+Presently I delivered a bit of serious matter with impressive
+unction (it was my pet), and the audience listened with an
+absorbed hush that gratified me more than any applause; and as I
+dropped the last word of the clause, I happened to turn and catch
+Mrs.&mdash;'s intent and waiting eye; my conversation with her flashed
+upon me, and in spite of all I could do I smiled. She took it for
+the signal, and promptly delivered a mellow laugh that touched
+off the whole audience; and the explosion that followed was the
+triumph of the evening. I thought that that honest man Sawyer
+would choke himself; and as for the bludgeons, they performed
+like pile-drivers. But my poor little morsel of pathos was
+ruined. It was taken in good faith as an intentional joke, and
+the prize one of the entertainment, and I wisely let it go at
+that.</p>
+
+<p>All the papers were kind in the morning; my appetite returned;
+I had a abundance of money. All's well that ends well.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch79"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER LXXIX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>I launched out as a lecturer, now, with great boldness. I had
+the field all to myself, for public lectures were almost an
+unknown commodity in the Pacific market. They are not so rare,
+now, I suppose. I took an old personal friend along to play agent
+for me, and for two or three weeks we roamed through Nevada and
+California and had a very cheerful time of it. Two days before I
+lectured in Virginia City, two stagecoaches were robbed within
+two miles of the town. The daring act was committed just at dawn,
+by six masked men, who sprang up alongside the coaches, presented
+revolvers at the heads of the drivers and passengers, and
+commanded a general dismount. Everybody climbed down, and the
+robbers took their watches and every cent they had. Then they
+took gunpowder and blew up the express specie boxes and got their
+contents. The leader of the robbers was a small, quick-spoken
+man, and the fame of his vigorous manner and his intrepidity was
+in everybody's mouth when we arrived.</p>
+
+<p>The night after instructing Virginia, I walked over the
+desolate "divide" and down to Gold Hill, and lectured there. The
+lecture done, I stopped to talk with a friend, and did not start
+back till eleven. The "divide" was high, unoccupied ground,
+between the towns, the scene of twenty midnight murders and a
+hundred robberies. As we climbed up and stepped out on this
+eminence, the Gold Hill lights dropped out of sight at our backs,
+and the night closed down gloomy and dismal. A sharp wind swept
+the place, too, and chilled our perspiring bodies through.</p>
+
+<p>"I tell you I don't like this place at night," said Mike the
+agent.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, don't speak so loud," I said. "You needn't remind
+anybody that we are here."</p>
+
+<p>Just then a dim figure approached me from the direction of
+Virginia&mdash;a man, evidently. He came straight at me, and I stepped
+aside to let him pass; he stepped in the way and confronted me
+again. Then I saw that he had a mask on and was holding something
+in my face&mdash;I heard a click-click and recognized a revolver in
+dim outline. I pushed the barrel aside with my hand and said:</p>
+
+<p>"Don't!"</p>
+
+<p>He ejaculated sharply:</p>
+
+<p>"Your watch! Your money!"</p>
+
+<p>I said:</p>
+
+<p>"You can have them with pleasure&mdash;but take the pistol away
+from my face, please. It makes me shiver."</p>
+
+<p>"No remarks! Hand out your money!"</p>
+
+<p>"Certainly&mdash;I&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Put up your hands! Don't you go for a weapon! Put 'em up!
+Higher!"</p>
+
+<p>I held them above my head.</p>
+
+<p>A pause. Then:</p>
+
+<p>"Are you going to hand out your money or not?"</p>
+
+<p>I dropped my hands to my pockets and said:</p>
+
+<p>Certainly! I&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Put up your hands! Do you want your head blown off?
+Higher!"</p>
+
+<p>I put them above my head again.</p>
+
+<p>Another pause.</p>
+
+<p>Are you going to hand out your money or not? Ah-ah&mdash;again? Put
+up your hands! By George, you want the head shot off you awful
+bad!"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, friend, I'm trying my best to please you. You tell me
+to give up my money, and when I reach for it you tell me to put
+up my hands. If you would only&mdash;. Oh, now&mdash;don't! All six of you
+at me! That other man will get away while.&mdash;Now please take some
+of those revolvers out of my face&mdash;do, if you please! Every time
+one of them clicks, my liver comes up into my throat! If you have
+a mother&mdash;any of you&mdash;or if any of you have ever had a mother&mdash;or
+a&mdash;grandmother&mdash;or a&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Cheese it! Will you give up your money, or have we got to&mdash;.
+There&mdash;there&mdash;none of that! Put up your hands!"</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen&mdash;I know you are gentlemen by your&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Silence! If you want to be facetious, young man, there are
+times and places more fitting. This is a serious business."</p>
+
+<p>"You prick the marrow of my opinion. The funerals I have
+attended in my time were comedies compared to it. Now I
+think&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Curse your palaver! Your money!&mdash;your money!&mdash;your money!
+Hold!&mdash;put up your hands!"</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen, listen to reason. You see how I am situated&mdash;now
+don't put those pistols so close&mdash;I smell the powder.</p>
+
+<p>"You see how I am situated. If I had four hands&mdash;so that I
+could hold up two and&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Throttle him! Gag him! Kill him!"</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen, don't! Nobody's watching the other fellow. Why
+don't some of you&mdash;. Ouch! Take it away, please!</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen, you see that I've got to hold up my hands; and so
+I can't take out my money&mdash;but if you'll be so kind as to take it
+out for me, I will do as much for you some&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Search him Beauregard&mdash;and stop his jaw with a bullet, quick,
+if he wags it again. Help Beauregard, Stonewall."</p>
+
+<p>Then three of them, with the small, spry leader, adjourned to
+Mike and fell to searching him. I was so excited that my lawless
+fancy tortured me to ask my two men all manner of facetious
+questions about their rebel brother-generals of the South, but,
+considering the order they had received, it was but common
+prudence to keep still. When everything had been taken from
+me,&mdash;watch, money, and a multitude of trifles of small value,&mdash;I
+supposed I was free, and forthwith put my cold hands into my
+empty pockets and began an inoffensive jig to warm my feet and
+stir up some latent courage&mdash;but instantly all pistols were at my
+head, and the order came again:</p>
+
+<a name="567"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="567.jpg (72K)" src="images/567.jpg" height="417" width="603">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>They stood Mike up alongside of me, with strict orders to keep
+his hands above his head, too, and then the chief highwayman
+said:</p>
+
+<p>"Beauregard, hide behind that boulder; Phil Sheridan, you hide
+behind that other one; Stonewall Jackson, put yourself behind
+that sage-bush there. Keep your pistols bearing on these fellows,
+and if they take down their hands within ten minutes, or move a
+single peg, let them have it!"</p>
+
+<p>Then three disappeared in the gloom toward the several
+ambushes, and the other three disappeared down the road toward
+Virginia.</p>
+
+<p>It was depressingly still, and miserably cold. Now this whole
+thing was a practical joke, and the robbers were personal friends
+of ours in disguise, and twenty more lay hidden within ten feet
+of us during the whole operation, listening. Mike knew all this,
+and was in the joke, but I suspected nothing of it. To me it was
+most uncomfortably genuine. When we had stood there in the middle
+of the road five minutes, like a couple of idiots, with our hands
+aloft, freezing to death by inches, Mike's interest in the joke
+began to wane. He said:</p>
+
+<p>"The time's up, now, aint it?"</p>
+
+<p>"No, you keep still. Do you want to take any chances with
+these bloody savages?"</p>
+
+<p>Presently Mike said:</p>
+
+<p>"Now the time's up, anyway. I'm freezing."</p>
+
+<p>"Well freeze. Better freeze than carry your brains home in a
+basket. Maybe the time is up, but how do we know?&mdash;got no watch
+to tell by. I mean to give them good measure. I calculate to
+stand here fifteen minutes or die. Don't you move."</p>
+
+<p>So, without knowing it, I was making one joker very sick of
+his contract. When we took our arms down at last, they were
+aching with cold and fatigue, and when we went sneaking off, the
+dread I was in that the time might not yet be up and that we
+would feel bullets in a moment, was not sufficient to draw all my
+attention from the misery that racked my stiffened body.</p>
+
+<p>The joke of these highwayman friends of ours was mainly a joke
+upon themselves; for they had waited for me on the cold hill-top
+two full hours before I came, and there was very little fun in
+that; they were so chilled that it took them a couple of weeks to
+get warm again. Moreover, I never had a thought that they would
+kill me to get money which it was so perfectly easy to get
+without any such folly, and so they did not really frighten me
+bad enough to make their enjoyment worth the trouble they had
+taken. I was only afraid that their weapons would go off
+accidentally. Their very numbers inspired me with confidence that
+no blood would be intentionally spilled. They were not smart;
+they ought to have sent only one highwayman, with a
+double-barrelled shot gun, if they desired to see the author of
+this volume climb a tree.</p>
+
+<p>However, I suppose that in the long run I got the largest
+share of the joke at last; and in a shape not foreseen by the
+highwaymen; for the chilly exposure on the "divide" while I was
+in a perspiration gave me a cold which developed itself into a
+troublesome disease and kept my hands idle some three months,
+besides costing me quite a sum in doctor's bills. Since then I
+play no practical jokes on people and generally lose my temper
+when one is played upon me.</p>
+
+<a name="569"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="569.jpg (39K)" src="images/569.jpg" height="357" width="353">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>When I returned to San Francisco I projected a pleasure
+journey to Japan and thence westward around the world; but a
+desire to see home again changed my mind, and I took a berth in
+the steamship, bade good-bye to the friendliest land and livest,
+heartiest community on our continent, and came by the way of the
+Isthmus to New York&mdash;a trip that was not much of a pic-nic
+excursion, for the cholera broke out among us on the passage and
+we buried two or three bodies at sea every day. I found home a
+dreary place after my long absence; for half the children I had
+known were now wearing whiskers or waterfalls, and few of the
+grown people I had been acquainted with remained at their
+hearthstones prosperous and happy&mdash;some of them had wandered to
+other scenes, some were in jail, and the rest had been hanged.
+These changes touched me deeply, and I went away and joined the
+famous Quaker City European Excursion and carried my tears to
+foreign lands.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, after seven years of vicissitudes, ended a "pleasure
+trip" to the silver mines of Nevada which had originally been
+intended to occupy only three months. However, I usually miss my
+calculations further than that.</p>
+
+<p>MORAL.</p>
+
+<p>If the reader thinks he is done, now, and that this book has
+no moral to it, he is in error. The moral of it is this: If you
+are of any account, stay at home and make your way by faithful
+diligence; but if you are "no account," go away from home, and
+then you will have to work, whether you want to or not. Thus you
+become a blessing to your friends by ceasing to be a nuisance to
+them&mdash;if the people you go among suffer by the operation.</p>
+
+<a name="570"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="570.jpg (75K)" src="images/570.jpg" height="614" width="596">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="APPENDIX"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>APPENDIX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+<p>APPENDIX. A.</p>
+
+<p>BRIEF SKETCH OF MORMON HISTORY.</p>
+
+<p>Mormonism is only about forty years old, but its career has
+been full of stir and adventure from the beginning, and is likely
+to remain so to the end. Its adherents have been hunted and
+hounded from one end of the country to the other, and the result
+is that for years they have hated all "Gentiles" indiscriminately
+and with all their might. Joseph Smith, the finder of the Book of
+Mormon and founder of the religion, was driven from State to
+State with his mysterious copperplates and the miraculous stones
+he read their inscriptions with. Finally he instituted his
+"church" in Ohio and Brigham Young joined it. The neighbors began
+to persecute, and apostasy commenced. Brigham held to the faith
+and worked hard. He arrested desertion. He did more&mdash;he added
+converts in the midst of the trouble. He rose in favor and
+importance with the brethren. He was made one of the Twelve
+Apostles of the Church. He shortly fought his way to a higher
+post and a more powerful&mdash;President of the Twelve. The neighbors
+rose up and drove the Mormons out of Ohio, and they settled in
+Missouri. Brigham went with them. The Missourians drove them out
+and they retreated to Nauvoo, Illinois. They prospered there, and
+built a temple which made some pretensions to architectural grace
+and achieved some celebrity in a section of country where a brick
+court-house with a tin dome and a cupola on it was contemplated
+with reverential awe. But the Mormons were badgered and harried
+again by their neighbors. All the proclamations Joseph Smith
+could issue denouncing polygamy and repudiating it as utterly
+anti-Mormon were of no avail; the people of the neighborhood, on
+both sides of the Mississippi, claimed that polygamy was
+practised by the Mormons, and not only polygamy but a little of
+everything that was bad. Brigham returned from a mission to
+England, where he had established a Mormon newspaper, and he
+brought back with him several hundred converts to his preaching.
+His influence among the brethren augmented with every move he
+made. Finally Nauvoo was invaded by the Missouri and Illinois
+Gentiles, and Joseph Smith killed. A Mormon named Rigdon assumed
+the Presidency of the Mormon church and government, in Smith's
+place, and even tried his hand at a prophecy or two. But a
+greater than he was at hand. Brigham seized the advantage of the
+hour and without other authority than superior brain and nerve
+and will, hurled Rigdon from his high place and occupied it
+himself. He did more. He launched an elaborate curse at Rigdon
+and his disciples; and he pronounced Rigdon's "prophecies"
+emanations from the devil, and ended by "handing the false
+prophet over to the buffetings of Satan for a thousand
+years"&mdash;probably the longest term ever inflicted in Illinois. The
+people recognized their master. They straightway elected Brigham
+Young President, by a prodigious majority, and have never
+faltered in their devotion to him from that day to this. Brigham
+had forecast&mdash;a quality which no other prominent Mormon has
+probably ever possessed. He recognized that it was better to move
+to the wilderness than be moved. By his command the people
+gathered together their meagre effects, turned their backs upon
+their homes, and their faces toward the wilderness, and on a
+bitter night in February filed in sorrowful procession across the
+frozen Mississippi, lighted on their way by the glare from their
+burning temple, whose sacred furniture their own hands had fired!
+They camped, several days afterward, on the western verge of
+Iowa, and poverty, want, hunger, cold, sickness, grief and
+persecution did their work, and many succumbed and died&mdash;martyrs,
+fair and true, whatever else they might have been. Two years the
+remnant remained there, while Brigham and a small party crossed
+the country and founded Great Salt Lake City, purposely choosing
+a land which was outside the ownership and jurisdiction of the
+hated American nation. Note that. This was in 1847. Brigham moved
+his people there and got them settled just in time to see
+disaster fall again. For the war closed and Mexico ceded
+Brigham's refuge to the enemy&mdash;the United States! In 1849 the
+Mormons organized a "free and independent" government and erected
+the "State of Deseret," with Brigham Young as its head. But the
+very next year Congress deliberately snubbed it and created the
+"Territory of Utah" out of the same accumulation of mountains,
+sage-brush, alkali and general desolation,&mdash;but made Brigham
+Governor of it. Then for years the enormous migration across the
+plains to California poured through the land of the Mormons and
+yet the church remained staunch and true to its lord and master.
+Neither hunger, thirst, poverty, grief, hatred, contempt, nor
+persecution could drive the Mormons from their faith or their
+allegiance; and even the thirst for gold, which gleaned the
+flower of the youth and strength of many nations was not able to
+entice them! That was the final test. An experiment that could
+survive that was an experiment with some substance to it
+somewhere.</p>
+
+<p>Great Salt Lake City throve finely, and so did Utah. One of
+the last things which Brigham Young had done before leaving Iowa,
+was to appear in the pulpit dressed to personate the worshipped
+and lamented prophet Smith, and confer the prophetic succession,
+with all its dignities, emoluments and authorities, upon
+"President Brigham Young!" The people accepted the pious fraud
+with the maddest enthusiasm, and Brigham's power was sealed and
+secured for all time. Within five years afterward he openly added
+polygamy to the tenets of the church by authority of a
+"revelation" which he pretended had been received nine years
+before by Joseph Smith, albeit Joseph is amply on record as
+denouncing polygamy to the day of his death.</p>
+
+<p>Now was Brigham become a second Andrew Johnson in the small
+beginning and steady progress of his official grandeur. He had
+served successively as a disciple in the ranks; home missionary;
+foreign missionary; editor and publisher; Apostle; President of
+the Board of Apostles; President of all Mormondom, civil and
+ecclesiastical; successor to the great Joseph by the will of
+heaven; "prophet," "seer," "revelator." There was but one dignity
+higher which he could aspire to, and he reached out modestly and
+took that&mdash;he proclaimed himself a God!</p>
+
+<p>He claims that he is to have a heaven of his own hereafter,
+and that he will be its God, and his wives and children its
+goddesses, princes and princesses. Into it all faithful Mormons
+will be admitted, with their families, and will take rank and
+consequence according to the number of their wives and children.
+If a disciple dies before he has had time to accumulate enough
+wives and children to enable him to be respectable in the next
+world any friend can marry a few wives and raise a few children
+for him after he is dead, and they are duly credited to his
+account and his heavenly status advanced accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>Let it be borne in mind that the majority of the Mormons have
+always been ignorant, simple, of an inferior order of intellect,
+unacquainted with the world and its ways; and let it be borne in
+mind that the wives of these Mormons are necessarily after the
+same pattern and their children likely to be fit representatives
+of such a conjunction; and then let it be remembered that for
+forty years these creatures have been driven, driven, driven,
+relentlessly! and mobbed, beaten, and shot down; cursed,
+despised, expatriated; banished to a remote desert, whither they
+journeyed gaunt with famine and disease, disturbing the ancient
+solitudes with their lamentations and marking the long way with
+graves of their dead&mdash;and all because they were simply trying to
+live and worship God in the way which they believed with all
+their hearts and souls to be the true one. Let all these things
+be borne in mind, and then it will not be hard to account for the
+deathless hatred which the Mormons bear our people and our
+government.</p>
+
+<p>That hatred has "fed fat its ancient grudge" ever since Mormon
+Utah developed into a self-supporting realm and the church waxed
+rich and strong. Brigham as Territorial Governor made it plain
+that Mormondom was for the Mormons. The United States tried to
+rectify all that by appointing territorial officers from New
+England and other anti-Mormon localities, but Brigham prepared to
+make their entrance into his dominions difficult. Three thousand
+United States troops had to go across the plains and put these
+gentlemen in office. And after they were in office they were as
+helpless as so many stone images. They made laws which nobody
+minded and which could not be executed. The federal judges opened
+court in a land filled with crime and violence and sat as holiday
+spectacles for insolent crowds to gape at&mdash;for there was nothing
+to try, nothing to do nothing on the dockets! And if a Gentile
+brought a suit, the Mormon jury would do just as it pleased about
+bringing in a verdict, and when the judgment of the court was
+rendered no Mormon cared for it and no officer could execute it.
+Our Presidents shipped one cargo of officials after another to
+Utah, but the result was always the same&mdash;they sat in a blight
+for awhile they fairly feasted on scowls and insults day by day,
+they saw every attempt to do their official duties find its
+reward in darker and darker looks, and in secret threats and
+warnings of a more and more dismal nature&mdash;and at last they
+either succumbed and became despised tools and toys of the
+Mormons, or got scared and discomforted beyond all endurance and
+left the Territory. If a brave officer kept on courageously till
+his pluck was proven, some pliant Buchanan or Pierce would remove
+him and appoint a stick in his place. In 1857 General Harney came
+very near being appointed Governor of Utah. And so it came very
+near being Harney governor and Cradlebaugh judge!&mdash;two men who
+never had any idea of fear further than the sort of murky
+comprehension of it which they were enabled to gather from the
+dictionary. Simply (if for nothing else) for the variety they
+would have made in a rather monotonous history of Federal
+servility and helplessness, it is a pity they were not fated to
+hold office together in Utah.</p>
+
+<p>Up to the date of our visit to Utah, such had been the
+Territorial record. The Territorial government established there
+had been a hopeless failure, and Brigham Young was the only real
+power in the land. He was an absolute monarch&mdash;a monarch who
+defied our President&mdash;a monarch who laughed at our armies when
+they camped about his capital&mdash;a monarch who received without
+emotion the news that the august Congress of the United States
+had enacted a solemn law against polygamy, and then went forth
+calmly and married twenty-five or thirty more wives.</p>
+
+<p>B. THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS MASSACRE.</p>
+
+<p>The persecutions which the Mormons suffered so long&mdash;and which
+they consider they still suffer in not being allowed to govern
+themselves&mdash;they have endeavored and are still endeavoring to
+repay. The now almost forgotten "Mountain Meadows massacre" was
+their work. It was very famous in its day. The whole United
+States rang with its horrors. A few items will refresh the
+reader's memory. A great emigrant train from Missouri and
+Arkansas passed through Salt Lake City and a few disaffected
+Mormons joined it for the sake of the strong protection it
+afforded for their escape. In that matter lay sufficient cause
+for hot retaliation by the Mormon chiefs. Besides, these one
+hundred and forty-five or one hundred and fifty unsuspecting
+emigrants being in part from Arkansas, where a noted Mormon
+missionary had lately been killed, and in part from Missouri, a
+State remembered with execrations as a bitter persecutor of the
+saints when they were few and poor and friendless, here were
+substantial additional grounds for lack of love for these
+wayfarers. And finally, this train was rich, very rich in cattle,
+horses, mules and other property&mdash;and how could the Mormons
+consistently keep up their coveted resemblance to the Israelitish
+tribes and not seize the "spoil" of an enemy when the Lord had so
+manifestly "delivered it into their hand?"</p>
+
+<p>Wherefore, according to Mrs. C. V. Waite's entertaining book,
+"The Mormon Prophet," it transpired that&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"A 'revelation' from Brigham Young, as Great Grand Archee or
+God, was dispatched to President J. C. Haight, Bishop Higbee and
+J. D. Lee (adopted son of Brigham), commanding them to raise all
+the forces they could muster and trust, follow those cursed
+Gentiles (so read the revelation), attack them disguised as
+Indians, and with the arrows of the Almighty make a clean sweep
+of them, and leave none to tell the tale; and if they needed any
+assistance they were commanded to hire the Indians as their
+allies, promising them a share of the booty. They were to be
+neither slothful nor negligent in their duty, and to be punctual
+in sending the teams back to him before winter set in, for this
+was the mandate of Almighty God."</p>
+
+<p>The command of the "revelation" was faithfully obeyed. A large
+party of Mormons, painted and tricked out as Indians, overtook
+the train of emigrant wagons some three hundred miles south of
+Salt Lake City, and made an attack. But the emigrants threw up
+earthworks, made fortresses of their wagons and defended
+themselves gallantly and successfully for five days! Your
+Missouri or Arkansas gentleman is not much afraid of the sort of
+scurvy apologies for "Indians" which the southern part of Utah
+affords. He would stand up and fight five hundred of them.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the five days the Mormons tried military
+strategy. They retired to the upper end of the "Meadows," resumed
+civilized apparel, washed off their paint, and then, heavily
+armed, drove down in wagons to the beleaguered emigrants, bearing
+a flag of truce! When the emigrants saw white men coming they
+threw down their guns and welcomed them with cheer after cheer!
+And, all unconscious of the poetry of it, no doubt, they lifted a
+little child aloft, dressed in white, in answer to the flag of
+truce!</p>
+
+<p>The leaders of the timely white "deliverers" were President
+Haight and Bishop John D. Lee, of the Mormon Church. Mr.
+Cradlebaugh, who served a term as a Federal Judge in Utah and
+afterward was sent to Congress from Nevada, tells in a speech
+delivered in Congress how these leaders next proceeded:</p>
+
+<p>"They professed to be on good terms with the Indians, and
+represented them as being very mad. They also proposed to
+intercede and settle the matter with the Indians. After several
+hours parley they, having (apparently) visited the Indians, gave
+the ultimatum of the savages; which was, that the emigrants
+should march out of their camp, leaving everything behind them,
+even their guns. It was promised by the Mormon bishops that they
+would bring a force and guard the emigrants back to the
+settlements. The terms were agreed to, the emigrants being
+desirous of saving the lives of their families. The Mormons
+retired, and subsequently appeared with thirty or forty armed
+men. The emigrants were marched out, the women and children in
+front and the men behind, the Mormon guard being in the rear.
+When they had marched in this way about a mile, at a given signal
+the slaughter commenced. The men were almost all shot down at the
+first fire from the guard. Two only escaped, who fled to the
+desert, and were followed one hundred and fifty miles before they
+were overtaken and slaughtered. The women and children ran on,
+two or three hundred yards further, when they were overtaken and
+with the aid of the Indians they were slaughtered. Seventeen
+individuals only, of all the emigrant party, were spared, and
+they were little children, the eldest of them being only seven
+years old. Thus, on the 10th day of September, 1857, was
+consummated one of the most cruel, cowardly and bloody murders
+known in our history."</p>
+
+<p>The number of persons butchered by the Mormons on this
+occasion was one hundred and twenty.</p>
+
+<p>With unheard-of temerity Judge Cradlebaugh opened his court
+and proceeded to make Mormondom answer for the massacre. And what
+a spectacle it must have been to see this grim veteran, solitary
+and alone in his pride and his pluck, glowering down on his
+Mormon jury and Mormon auditory, deriding them by turns, and by
+turns "breathing threatenings and slaughter!"</p>
+
+<p>An editorial in the Territorial Enterprise of that day says of
+him and of the occasion:</p>
+
+<p>"He spoke and acted with the fearlessness and resolution of a
+Jackson; but the jury failed to indict, or even report on the
+charges, while threats of violence were heard in every quarter,
+and an attack on the U.S. troops intimated, if he persisted in
+his course.</p>
+
+<p>"Finding that nothing could be done with the juries, they were
+discharged with a scathing rebuke from the judge. And then,
+sitting as a committing magistrate, he commenced his task alone.
+He examined witnesses, made arrests in every quarter, and created
+a consternation in the camps of the saints greater than any they
+had ever witnessed before, since Mormondom was born. At last
+accounts terrified elders and bishops were decamping to save
+their necks; and developments of the most starling character were
+being made, implicating the highest Church dignitaries in the
+many murders and robberies committed upon the Gentiles during the
+past eight years."</p>
+
+<p>Had Harney been Governor, Cradlebaugh would have been
+supported in his work, and the absolute proofs adduced by him of
+Mormon guilt in this massacre and in a number of previous
+murders, would have conferred gratuitous coffins upon certain
+citizens, together with occasion to use them. But Cumming was the
+Federal Governor, and he, under a curious pretense of
+impartiality, sought to screen the Mormons from the demands of
+justice. On one occasion he even went so far as to publish his
+protest against the use of the U.S. troops in aid of
+Cradlebaugh's proceedings.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. C. V. Waite closes her interesting detail of the great
+massacre with the following remark and accompanying summary of
+the testimony&mdash;and the summary is concise, accurate and
+reliable:</p>
+
+<p>"For the benefit of those who may still be disposed to doubt
+the guilt of Young and his Mormons in this transaction, the
+testimony is here collated and circumstances given which go not
+merely to implicate but to fasten conviction upon them by
+'confirmations strong as proofs of Holy Writ:'</p>
+
+<p>"1. The evidence of Mormons themselves, engaged in the affair,
+as shown by the statements of Judge Cradlebaugh and Deputy U.S.
+Marshall Rodgers.</p>
+
+<p>"2. The failure of Brigham Young to embody any account of it
+in his Report as Superintendent of Indian Affairs. Also his
+failure to make any allusion to it whatever from the pulpit,
+until several years after the occurrence</p>
+
+<p>"3. The flight to the mountains of men high in authority in
+the Mormon Church and State, when this affair was brought to the
+ordeal of a judicial investigation.</p>
+
+<p>"4. The failure of the Deseret News, the Church organ, and the
+only paper then published in the Territory, to notice the
+massacre until several months afterward, and then only to deny
+that Mormons were engaged in it.</p>
+
+<p>"5. The testimony of the children saved from the massacre.</p>
+
+<p>"6. The children and the property of the emigrants found in
+possession of the Mormons, and that possession traced back to the
+very day after the massacre.</p>
+
+<p>"7. The statements of Indians in the neighborhood of the scene
+of the massacre: these statements are shown, not only by
+Cradlebaugh and Rodgers, but by a number of military officers,
+and by J. Forney, who was, in 1859, Superintendent of Indian
+Affairs for the Territory. To all these were such statements
+freely and frequently made by the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>"8. The testimony of R. P. Campbell, Capt. 2d Dragoons, who
+was sent in the Spring of 1859 to Santa Clara, to protect
+travelers on the road to California and to inquire into Indian
+depredations."</p>
+
+<p>C. CONCERNING A FRIGHTFUL ASSASSINATION THAT WAS NEVER
+CONSUMMATED</p>
+
+<p>If ever there was a harmless man, it is Conrad Wiegand, of
+Gold Hill, Nevada. If ever there was a gentle spirit that thought
+itself unfired gunpowder and latent ruin, it is Conrad Wiegand.
+If ever there was an oyster that fancied itself a whale; or a
+jack-o'lantern, confined to a swamp, that fancied itself a planet
+with a billion-mile orbit; or a summer zephyr that deemed itself
+a hurricane, it is Conrad Wiegand. Therefore, what wonder is it
+that when he says a thing, he thinks the world listens; that when
+he does a thing the world stands still to look; and that when he
+suffers, there is a convulsion of nature? When I met Conrad, he
+was "Superintendent of the Gold Hill Assay Office"&mdash;and he was
+not only its Superintendent, but its entire force. And he was a
+street preacher, too, with a mongrel religion of his own
+invention, whereby he expected to regenerate the universe. This
+was years ago. Here latterly he has entered journalism; and his
+journalism is what it might be expected to be: colossal to ear,
+but pigmy to the eye. It is extravagant grandiloquence confined
+to a newspaper about the size of a double letter sheet. He
+doubtless edits, sets the type, and prints his paper, all alone;
+but he delights to speak of the concern as if it occupies a block
+and employs a thousand men.</p>
+
+<p>[Something less than two years ago, Conrad assailed several
+people mercilessly in his little "People's Tribune," and got
+himself into trouble. Straightway he airs the affair in the
+"Territorial Enterprise," in a communication over his own
+signature, and I propose to reproduce it here, in all its native
+simplicity and more than human candor. Long as it is, it is well
+worth reading, for it is the richest specimen of journalistic
+literature the history of America can furnish, perhaps:]</p>
+
+<p>From the Territorial Enterprise, Jan. 20, 1870.</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<h4>SEEMING PLOT FOR ASSASSINATION MISCARRIED.</h4>
+
+<p>TO THE EDITOR OF THE ENTERPRISE: Months ago, when Mr. Sutro
+incidentally exposed mining management on the Comstock, and among
+others roused me to protest against its continuance, in great
+kindness you warned me that any attempt by publications, by
+public meetings and by legislative action, aimed at the
+correction of chronic mining evils in Storey County, must entail
+upon me (a) business ruin, (b) the burden of all its costs, (c)
+personal violence, and if my purpose were persisted in, then (d)
+assassination, and after all nothing would be effected.</p>
+
+<p>YOUR PROPHECY FULFILLING. In large part at least your
+prophecies have been fulfilled, for (a) assaying, which was well
+attended to in the Gold Hill Assay Office (of which I am
+superintendent), in consequence of my publications, has been
+taken elsewhere, so the President of one of the companies assures
+me. With no reason assigned, other work has been taken away. With
+but one or two important exceptions, our assay business now
+consists simply of the gleanings of the vicinity. (b) Though my
+own personal donations to the People's Tribune Association have
+already exceeded $1,500, outside of our own numbers we have
+received (in money) less than $300 as contributions and
+subscriptions for the journal. (c) On Thursday last, on the main
+street in Gold Hill, near noon, with neither warning nor cause
+assigned, by a powerful blow I was felled to the ground, and
+while down I was kicked by a man who it would seem had been led
+to believe that I had spoken derogatorily of him. By whom he was
+so induced to believe I am as yet unable to say. On Saturday last
+I was again assailed and beaten by a man who first informed me
+why he did so, and who persisted in making his assault even after
+the erroneous impression under which he also was at first
+laboring had been clearly and repeatedly pointed out. This same
+man, after failing through intimidation to elicit from me the
+names of our editorial contributors, against giving which he knew
+me to be pledged, beat himself weary upon me with a raw hide, I
+not resisting, and then pantingly threatened me with permanent
+disfiguring mayhem, if ever again I should introduce his name
+into print, and who but a few minutes before his attack upon me
+assured me that the only reason I was "permitted" to reach home
+alive on Wednesday evening last (at which time the PEOPLE'S
+TRIBUNE was issued) was, that he deems me only half-witted, and
+be it remembered the very next morning I was knocked down and
+kicked by a man who seemed to be prepared for flight. [He sees
+doom impending:]</p>
+
+<p>WHEN WILL THE CIRCLE JOIN? How long before the whole of your
+prophecy will be fulfilled I cannot say, but under the shadow of
+so much fulfillment in so short a time, and with such threats
+from a man who is one of the most prominent exponents of the San
+Francisco mining-ring staring me and this whole community
+defiantly in the face and pointing to a completion of your
+augury, do you blame me for feeling that this communication is
+the last I shall ever write for the Press, especially when a
+sense alike of personal self- respect, of duty to this
+money-oppressed and fear-ridden community, and of American fealty
+to the spirit of true Liberty all command me, and each more
+loudly than love of life itself, to declare the name of that
+prominent man to be JOHN B. WINTERS, President of the Yellow
+Jacket Company, a political aspirant and a military General? The
+name of his partially duped accomplice and abettor in this last
+marvelous assault, is no other than PHILIP LYNCH, Editor and
+Proprietor of the Gold Hill News.</p>
+
+<p>Despite the insult and wrong heaped upon me by John B.
+Winters, on Saturday afternoon, only a glimpse of which I shall
+be able to afford your readers, so much do I deplore clinching
+(by publicity) a serious mistake of any one, man or woman,
+committed under natural and not self- wrought passion, in view of
+his great apparent excitement at the time and in view of the
+almost perfect privacy of the assault, I am far from sure that I
+should not have given him space for repentance before exposing
+him, were it not that he himself has so far exposed the matter as
+to make it the common talk of the town that he has horsewhipped
+me. That fact having been made public, all the facts in
+connection need to be also, or silence on my part would seem more
+than singular, and with many would be proof either that I was
+conscious of some unworthy aim in publishing the article, or else
+that my "non-combatant" principles are but a convenient cloak
+alike of physical and moral cowardice. I therefore shall try to
+present a graphic but truthful picture of this whole affair, but
+shall forbear all comments, presuming that the editors of our own
+journal, if others do not, will speak freely and fittingly upon
+this subject in our next number, whether I shall then be dead or
+living, for my death will not stop, though it may suspend, the
+publication of the PEOPLE'S TRIBUNE. [The "non-combatant" sticks
+to principle, but takes along a friend or two of a conveniently
+different stripe:]</p>
+
+<p>THE TRAP SET. On Saturday morning John B. Winters sent verbal
+word to the Gold Hill Assay Office that he desired to see me at
+the Yellow Jacket office. Though such a request struck me as
+decidedly cool in view of his own recent discourtesies to me
+there alike as a publisher and as a stockholder in the Yellow
+Jacket mine, and though it seemed to me more like a summons than
+the courteous request by one gentleman to another for a favor,
+hoping that some conference with Sharon looking to the betterment
+of mining matters in Nevada might arise from it, I felt strongly
+inclined to overlook what possibly was simply an oversight in
+courtesy. But as then it had only been two days since I had been
+bruised and beaten under a hasty and false apprehension of facts,
+my caution was somewhat aroused. Moreover I remembered
+sensitively his contemptuousness of manner to me at my last
+interview in his office. I therefore felt it needful, if I went
+at all, to go accompanied by a friend whom he would not dare to
+treat with incivility, and whose presence with me might secure
+exemption from insult. Accordingly I asked a neighbor to
+accompany me.</p>
+
+<p>THE TRAP ALMOST DETECTED. Although I was not then aware of
+this fact, it would seem that previous to my request this same
+neighbor had heard Dr. Zabriskie state publicly in a saloon, that
+Mr. Winters had told him he had decided either to kill or to
+horsewhip me, but had not finally decided on which. My neighbor,
+therefore, felt unwilling to go down with me until he had first
+called on Mr. Winters alone. He therefore paid him a visit. From
+that interview he assured me that he gathered the impression that
+he did not believe I would have any difficulty with Mr. Winters,
+and that he (Winters) would call on me at four o'clock in my own
+office.</p>
+
+<p>MY OWN PRECAUTIONS. As Sheriff Cummings was in Gold Hill that
+afternoon, and as I desired to converse with him about the
+previous assault, I invited him to my office, and he came.
+Although a half hour had passed beyond four o'clock, Mr. Winters
+had not called, and we both of us began preparing to go home.
+Just then, Philip Lynch, Publisher of the Gold Hill News, came in
+and said, blandly and cheerily, as if bringing good news:</p>
+
+<p>"Hello, John B. Winters wants to see you."</p>
+
+<p>I replied, "Indeed! Why he sent me word that he would call on
+me here this afternoon at four o'clock!"</p>
+
+<p>"O, well, it don't do to be too ceremonious just now, he's in
+my office, and that will do as well&mdash;come on in, Winters wants to
+consult with you alone. He's got something to say to you."</p>
+
+<p>Though slightly uneasy at this change of programme, yet
+believing that in an editor's house I ought to be safe, and
+anyhow that I would be within hail of the street, I hurriedly,
+and but partially whispered my dim apprehensions to Mr. Cummings,
+and asked him if he would not keep near enough to hear my voice
+in case I should call. He consented to do so while waiting for
+some other parties, and to come in if he heard my voice or
+thought I had need of protection.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching the editorial part of the News office, which
+viewed from the street is dark, I did not see Mr. Winters, and
+again my misgivings arose. Had I paused long enough to consider
+the case, I should have invited Sheriff Cummings in, but as Lynch
+went down stairs, he said: "This way, Wiegand&mdash;it's best to be
+private," or some such remark.</p>
+
+<p>[I do not desire to strain the reader's fancy, hurtfully, and
+yet it would be a favor to me if he would try to fancy this lamb
+in battle, or the duelling ground or at the head of a vigilance
+committee&mdash;M. T.:]</p>
+
+<p>I followed, and without Mr. Cummings, and without arms, which
+I never do or will carry, unless as a soldier in war, or unless I
+should yet come to feel I must fight a duel, or to join and aid
+in the ranks of a necessary Vigilance Committee. But by following
+I made a fatal mistake. Following was entering a trap, and
+whatever animal suffers itself to be caught should expect the
+common fate of a caged rat, as I fear events to come will
+prove.</p>
+
+<p>Traps commonly are not set for benevolence. [His body-guard is
+shut out:]</p>
+
+<p>THE TRAP INSIDE. I followed Lynch down stairs. At their foot a
+door to the left opened into a small room. From that room another
+door opened into yet another room, and once entered I found
+myself inveigled into what many will ever henceforth regard as a
+private subterranean Gold Hill den, admirably adapted in proper
+hands to the purposes of murder, raw or disguised, for from it,
+with both or even one door closed, when too late, I saw that I
+could not be heard by Sheriff Cummings, and from it, BY VIOLENCE
+AND BY FORCE, I was prevented from making a peaceable exit, when
+I thought I saw the studious object of this "consultation" was no
+other than to compass my killing, in the presence of Philip Lynch
+as a witness, as soon as by insult a proverbially excitable man
+should be exasperated to the point of assailing Mr. Winters, so
+that Mr. Lynch, by his conscience and by his well known
+tenderness of heart toward the rich and potent would be compelled
+to testify that he saw Gen. John B. Winters kill Conrad Wiegand
+in "self-defence." But I am going too fast.</p>
+
+<p>OUR HOST. Mr. Lynch was present during the most of the time
+(say a little short of an hour), but three times he left the
+room. His testimony, therefore, would be available only as to the
+bulk of what transpired. On entering this carpeted den I was
+invited to a seat near one corner of the room. Mr. Lynch took a
+seat near the window. J. B. Winters sat (at first) near the door,
+and began his remarks essentially as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"I have come here to exact of you a retraction, in black and
+white, of those damnably false charges which you have preferred
+against me in that-&mdash;infamous lying sheet of yours, and you must
+declare yourself their author, that you published them knowing
+them to be false, and that your motives were malicious."</p>
+
+<p>"Hold, Mr. Winters. Your language is insulting and your demand
+an enormity. I trust I was not invited here either to be insulted
+or coerced. I supposed myself here by invitation of Mr. Lynch, at
+your request."</p>
+
+<p>"Nor did I come here to insult you. I have already told you
+that I am here for a very different purpose."</p>
+
+<p>"Yet your language has been offensive, and even now shows
+strong excitement. If insult is repeated I shall either leave the
+room or call in Sheriff Cummings, whom I just left standing and
+waiting for me outside the door."</p>
+
+<p>"No, you won't, sir. You may just as well understand it at
+once as not. Here you are my man, and I'll tell you why! Months
+ago you put your property out of your hands, boasting that you
+did so to escape losing it on prosecution for libel."</p>
+
+<p>"It is true that I did convert all my immovable property into
+personal property, such as I could trust safely to others, and
+chiefly to escape ruin through possible libel suits."</p>
+
+<p>"Very good, sir. Having placed yourself beyond the pale of the
+law, may God help your soul if you DON'T make precisely such a
+retraction as I have demanded. I've got you now, and by&mdash;before
+you can get out of this room you've got to both write and sign
+precisely the retraction I have demanded, and before you go,
+anyhow&mdash;you&mdash;-low-lived&mdash;lying&mdash;-, I'll teach you what personal
+responsibility is outside of the law; and, by&mdash;, Sheriff Cummings
+and all the friends you've got in the world besides, can't save
+you, you&mdash;-, etc.! No, sir. I'm alone now, and I'm prepared to be
+shot down just here and now rather than be villified by you as I
+have been, and suffer you to escape me after publishing those
+charges, not only here where I am known and universally
+respected, but where I am not personally known and may be
+injured."</p>
+
+<p>I confess this speech, with its terrible and but too plainly
+implied threat of killing me if I did not sign the paper he
+demanded, terrified me, especially as I saw he was working
+himself up to the highest possible pitch of passion, and instinct
+told me that any reply other than one of seeming concession to
+his demands would only be fuel to a raging fire, so I
+replied:</p>
+
+<p>"Well, if I've got to sign&mdash;," and then I paused some time.
+Resuming, I said, "But, Mr. Winters, you are greatly excited.
+Besides, I see you are laboring under a total misapprehension. It
+is your duty not to inflame but to calm yourself. I am prepared
+to show you, if you will only point out the article that you
+allude to, that you regard as 'charges' what no calm and logical
+mind has any right to regard as such. Show me the charges, and I
+will try, at all events; and if it becomes plain that no charges
+have been preferred, then plainly there can be nothing to
+retract, and no one could rightly urge you to demand a
+retraction. You should beware of making so serious a mistake, for
+however honest a man may be, every one is liable to misapprehend.
+Besides you assume that I am the author of some certain article
+which you have not pointed out. It is hasty to do so."</p>
+
+<p>He then pointed to some numbered paragraphs in a TRIBUNE
+article, headed "What's the Matter with Yellow Jacket?" saying
+"That's what I refer to."</p>
+
+<p>To gain time for general reflection and resolution, I took up
+the paper and looked it over for awhile, he remaining silent, and
+as I hoped, cooling. I then resumed saying, "As I supposed. I do
+not admit having written that article, nor have you any right to
+assume so important a point, and then base important action upon
+your assumption. You might deeply regret it afterwards. In my
+published Address to the People, I notified the world that no
+information as to the authorship of any article would be given
+without the consent of the writer. I therefore cannot honorably
+tell you who wrote that article, nor can you exact it."</p>
+
+<p>"If you are not the author, then I do demand to know who
+is?"</p>
+
+<p>"I must decline to say."</p>
+
+<p>"Then, by&mdash;, I brand you as its author, and shall treat you
+accordingly."</p>
+
+<p>"Passing that point, the most important misapprehension which
+I notice is, that you regard them as 'charges' at all, when their
+context, both at their beginning and end, show they are not.
+These words introduce them: 'Such an investigation [just before
+indicated], we think MIGHT result in showing some of the
+following points.' Then follow eleven specifications, and the
+succeeding paragraph shows that the suggested investigation
+'might EXONERATE those who are generally believed guilty.' You
+see, therefore, the context proves they are not preferred as
+charges, and this you seem to have overlooked."</p>
+
+<p>While making those comments, Mr. Winters frequently
+interrupted me in such a way as to convince me that he was
+resolved not to consider candidly the thoughts contained in my
+words. He insisted upon it that they were charges, and "By&mdash;," he
+would make me take them back as charges, and he referred the
+question to Philip Lynch, to whom I then appealed as a literary
+man, as a logician, and as an editor, calling his attention
+especially to the introductory paragraph just before quoted. He
+replied, "if they are not charges, they certainly are
+insinuations," whereupon Mr. Winters renewed his demands for
+retraction precisely such as he had before named, except that he
+would allow me to state who did write the article if I did not
+myself, and this time shaking his fist in my face with more
+cursings and epithets.</p>
+
+<p>When he threatened me with his clenched fist, instinctively I
+tried to rise from my chair, but Winters then forcibly thrust me
+down, as he did every other time (at least seven or eight), when
+under similar imminent danger of bruising by his fist (or for
+aught I could know worse than that after the first stunning
+blow), which he could easily and safely to himself have dealt me
+so long as he kept me down and stood over me.</p>
+
+<p>This fact it was, which more than anything else, convinced me
+that by plan and plot I was purposely made powerless in Mr.
+Winters' hands, and that he did not mean to allow me that
+advantage of being afoot, which he possessed. Moreover, I then
+became convinced, that Philip Lynch (and for what reason I
+wondered) would do absolutely nothing to protect me in his own
+house. I realized then the situation thoroughly. I had found it
+equally vain to protest or argue, and I would make no unmanly
+appeal for pity, still less apologize. Yet my life had been by
+the plainest possible implication threatened. I was a weak man. I
+was unarmed. I was helplessly down, and Winters was afoot and
+probably armed. Lynch was the only "witness." The statements
+demanded, if given and not explained, would utterly sink me in my
+own self-respect, in my family's eyes, and in the eyes of the
+community. On the other hand, should I give the author's name how
+could I ever expect that confidence of the People which I should
+no longer deserve, and how much dearer to me and to my family was
+my life than the life of the real author to his friends. Yet life
+seemed dear and each minute that remained seemed precious if not
+solemn. I sincerely trust that neither you nor any of your
+readers, and especially none with families, may ever be placed in
+such seeming direct proximity to death while obliged to decide
+the one question I was compelled to, viz.: What should I do&mdash;I, a
+man of family, and not as Mr. Winters is, "alone." [The reader is
+requested not to skip the following.&mdash;M. T.:]</p>
+
+<p>STRATEGY AND MESMERISM. To gain time for further reflection,
+and hoping that by a seeming acquiescence I might regain my
+personal liberty, at least till I could give an alarm, or take
+advantage of some momentary inadvertence of Winters, and then
+without a cowardly flight escape, I resolved to write a certain
+kind of retraction, but previously had inwardly decided:</p>
+
+<p>First.&mdash;That I would studiously avoid every action which might
+be construed into the drawing of a weapon, even by a
+self-infuriated man, no matter what amount of insult might be
+heaped upon me, for it seemed to me that this great excess of
+compound profanity, foulness and epithet must be more than a mere
+indulgence, and therefore must have some object. "Surely in vain
+the net is spread in the sight of any bird." Therefore, as before
+without thought, I thereafter by intent kept my hands away from
+my pockets, and generally in sight and spread upon my knees.</p>
+
+<p>Second.&mdash;I resolved to make no motion with my arms or hands
+which could possibly be construed into aggression.</p>
+
+<p>Third.&mdash;I resolved completely to govern my outward manner and
+suppress indignation. To do this, I must govern my spirit. To do
+that, by force of imagination I was obliged like actors on the
+boards to resolve myself into an unnatural mental state and see
+all things through the eyes of an assumed character.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth.&mdash;I resolved to try on Winters, silently, and
+unconsciously to himself a mesmeric power which I possess over
+certain kinds of people, and which at times I have found to work
+even in the dark over the lower animals.</p>
+
+<p>Does any one smile at these last counts? God save you from
+ever being obliged to beat in a game of chess, whose stake is
+your life, you having but four poor pawns and pieces and your
+adversary with his full force unshorn. But if you are, provided
+you have any strength with breadth of will, do not despair.
+Though mesmeric power may not save you, it may help you; try it
+at all events. In this instance I was conscious of power coming
+into me, and by a law of nature, I know Winters was
+correspondingly weakened. If I could have gained more time I am
+sure he would not even have struck me.</p>
+
+<p>It takes time both to form such resolutions and to recite
+them. That time, however, I gained while thinking of my
+retraction, which I first wrote in pencil, altering it from time
+to time till I got it to suit me, my aim being to make it look
+like a concession to demands, while in fact it should tersely
+speak the truth into Mr. Winters' mind. When it was finished, I
+copied it in ink, and if correctly copied from my first draft it
+should read as follows. In copying I do not think I made any
+material change.</p>
+
+<p>COPY. To Philip Lynch, Editor of the Gold Hill News: I learn
+that Gen. John B. Winters believes the following (pasted on)
+clipping from the PEOPLE'S TRIBUNE of January to contain distinct
+charges of mine against him personally, and that as such he
+desires me to retract them unqualifiedly.</p>
+
+<p>In compliance with his request, permit me to say that,
+although Mr. Winters and I see this matter differently, in view
+of his strong feelings in the premises, I hereby declare that I
+do not know those "charges" (if such they are) to be true, and I
+hope that a critical examination would altogether disprove them.
+CONRAD WIEGAND. Gold Hill, January 15, 1870.</p>
+
+<p>I then read what I had written and handed it to Mr. Lynch,
+whereupon Mr. Winters said:</p>
+
+<p>"That's not satisfactory, and it won't do;" and then
+addressing himself to Mr. Lynch, he further said: "How does it
+strike you?"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, I confess I don't see that it retracts anything."</p>
+
+<p>"Nor do I," said Winters; "in fact, I regard it as adding
+insult to injury. Mr. Wiegand you've got to do better than that.
+You are not the man who can pull wool over my eyes."</p>
+
+<p>"That, sir, is the only retraction I can write."</p>
+
+<p>"No it isn't, sir, and if you so much as say so again you do
+it at your peril, for I'll thrash you to within an inch of your
+life, and, by&mdash;, sir, I don't pledge myself to spare you even
+that inch either. I want you to understand I have asked you for a
+very different paper, and that paper you've got to sign."</p>
+
+<p>"Mr. Winters, I assure you that I do not wish to irritate you,
+but, at the same time, it is utterly impossible for me to write
+any other paper than that which I have written. If you are
+resolved to compel me to sign something, Philip Lynch's hand must
+write at your dictation, and if, when written, I can sign it I
+will do so, but such a document as you say you must have from me,
+I never can sign. I mean what I say."</p>
+
+<p>"Well, sir, what's to be done must be done quickly, for I've
+been here long enough already. I'll put the thing in another
+shape (and then pointing to the paper); don't you know those
+charges to be false?"</p>
+
+<p>"I do not."</p>
+
+<p>"Do you know them to be true?"</p>
+
+<p>"Of my own personal knowledge I do not."</p>
+
+<p>"Why then did you print them?"</p>
+
+<p>"Because rightly considered in their connection they are not
+charges, but pertinent and useful suggestions in answer to the
+queries of a correspondent who stated facts which are
+inexplicable."</p>
+
+<p>"Don't you know that I know they are false?"</p>
+
+<p>"If you do, the proper course is simply to deny them and court
+an investigation."</p>
+
+<p>"And do YOU claim the right to make ME come out and deny
+anything you may choose to write and print?"</p>
+
+<p>To that question I think I made no reply, and he then further
+said:</p>
+
+<p>"Come, now, we've talked about the matter long enough. I want
+your final answer&mdash;did you write that article or not?"</p>
+
+<p>"I cannot in honor tell you who wrote it."</p>
+
+<p>"Did you not see it before it was printed?"</p>
+
+<p>"Most certainly, sir."</p>
+
+<p>"And did you deem it a fit thing to publish?"</p>
+
+<p>"Most assuredly, sir, or I would never have consented to its
+appearance. Of its authorship I can say nothing whatever, but for
+its publication I assume full, sole and personal
+responsibility."</p>
+
+<p>"And do you then retract it or not?"</p>
+
+<p>"Mr. Winters, if my refusal to sign such a paper as you have
+demanded must entail upon me all that your language in this room
+fairly implies, then I ask a few minutes for prayer."</p>
+
+<p>"Prayer!&mdash;-you, this is not your hour for prayer&mdash;your time to
+pray was when you were writing those&mdash;lying charges. Will you
+sign or not?"</p>
+
+<p>"You already have my answer."</p>
+
+<p>"What! do you still refuse?"</p>
+
+<p>"I do, sir."</p>
+
+<p>"Take that, then," and to my amazement and inexpressible
+relief he drew only a rawhide instead of what I expected&mdash;a
+bludgeon or pistol. With it, as he spoke, he struck at my left
+ear downwards, as if to tear it off, and afterwards on the side
+of the head. As he moved away to get a better chance for a more
+effective shot, for the first time I gained a chance under peril
+to rise, and I did so pitying him from the very bottom of my
+soul, to think that one so naturally capable of true dignity,
+power and nobility could, by the temptations of this State, and
+by unfortunate associations and aspirations, be so deeply debased
+as to find in such brutality anything which he could call
+satisfaction&mdash;but the great hope for us all is in progress and
+growth, and John B. Winters, I trust, will yet be able to
+comprehend my feelings.</p>
+
+<p>He continued to beat me with all his great force, until
+absolutely weary, exhausted and panting for breath. I still
+adhered to my purpose of non- aggressive defence, and made no
+other use of my arms than to defend my head and face from further
+disfigurement. The mere pain arising from the blows he inflicted
+upon my person was of course transient, and my clothing to some
+extent deadened its severity, as it now hides all remaining
+traces.</p>
+
+<p>When I supposed he was through, taking the butt end of his
+weapon and shaking it in my face, he warned me, if I correctly
+understood him, of more yet to come, and furthermore said, if
+ever I again dared introduce his name to print, in either my own
+or any other public journal, he would cut off my left ear (and I
+do not think he was jesting) and send me home to my family a
+visibly mutilated man, to be a standing warning to all low-lived
+puppies who seek to blackmail gentlemen and to injure their good
+names. And when he did so operate, he informed me that his
+implement would not be a whip but a knife.</p>
+
+<p>When he had said this, unaccompanied by Mr. Lynch, as I
+remember it, he left the room, for I sat down by Mr. Lynch,
+exclaiming: "The man is mad&mdash;he is utterly mad&mdash;this step is his
+ruin&mdash;it is a mistake&mdash;it would be ungenerous in me, despite of
+all the ill usage I have here received, to expose him, at least
+until he has had an opportunity to reflect upon the matter. I
+shall be in no haste."</p>
+
+<p>"Winters is very mad just now," replied Mr. Lynch, "but when
+he is himself he is one of the finest men I ever met. In fact, he
+told me the reason he did not meet you upstairs was to spare you
+the humiliation of a beating in the sight of others."</p>
+
+<p>I submit that that unguarded remark of Philip Lynch convicts
+him of having been privy in advance to Mr. Winters' intentions
+whatever they may have been, or at least to his meaning to make
+an assault upon me, but I leave to others to determine how much
+censure an editor deserves for inveigling a weak, non-combatant
+man, also a publisher, to a pen of his own to be horsewhipped, if
+no worse, for the simple printing of what is verbally in the
+mouth of nine out of ten men, and women too, upon the street.</p>
+
+<p>While writing this account two theories have occurred to me as
+possibly true respecting this most remarkable assault: First&mdash;The
+aim may have been simply to extort from me such admissions as in
+the hands of money and influence would have sent me to the
+Penitentiary for libel. This, however, seems unlikely, because
+any statements elicited by fear or force could not be evidence in
+law or could be so explained as to have no force. The statements
+wanted so badly must have been desired for some other purpose.
+Second&mdash;The other theory has so dark and wilfully murderous a
+look that I shrink from writing it, yet as in all probability my
+death at the earliest practicable moment has already been
+decreed, I feel I should do all I can before my hour arrives, at
+least to show others how to break up that aristocratic rule and
+combination which has robbed all Nevada of true freedom, if not
+of manhood itself. Although I do not prefer this hypothesis as a
+"charge," I feel that as an American citizen I still have a right
+both to think and to speak my thoughts even in the land of Sharon
+and Winters, and as much so respecting the theory of a brutal
+assault (especially when I have been its subject) as respecting
+any other apparent enormity. I give the matter simply as a
+suggestion which may explain to the proper authorities and to the
+people whom they should represent, a well ascertained but
+notwithstanding a darkly mysterious fact. The scheme of the
+assault may have been:</p>
+
+<p>First&mdash;To terrify me by making me conscious of my own
+helplessness after making actual though not legal threats against
+my life.</p>
+
+<p>Second&mdash;To imply that I could save my life only by writing or
+signing certain specific statements which if not subsequently
+explained would eternally have branded me as infamous and would
+have consigned my family to shame and want, and to the dreadful
+compassion and patronage of the rich.</p>
+
+<p>Third&mdash;To blow my brains out the moment I had signed, thereby
+preventing me from making any subsequent explanation such as
+could remove the infamy.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth&mdash;Philip Lynch to be compelled to testify that I was
+killed by John B. Winters in self-defence, for the conviction of
+Winters would bring him in as an accomplice. If that was the
+programme in John B. Winters' mind nothing saved my life but my
+persistent refusal to sign, when that refusal seemed clearly to
+me to be the choice of death.</p>
+
+<p>The remarkable assertion made to me by Mr. Winters, that pity
+only spared my life on Wednesday evening last, almost compels me
+to believe that at first he could not have intended me to leave
+that room alive; and why I was allowed to, unless through
+mesmeric or some other invisible influence, I cannot divine. The
+more I reflect upon this matter, the more probable as true does
+this horrible interpretation become.</p>
+
+<p>The narration of these things I might have spared both to Mr.
+Winters and to the public had he himself observed silence, but as
+he has both verbally spoken and suffered a thoroughly garbled
+statement of facts to appear in the Gold Hill News I feel it due
+to myself no less than to this community, and to the entire
+independent press of America and Great Britain, to give a true
+account of what even the Gold Hill News has pronounced a
+disgraceful affair, and which it deeply regrets because of some
+alleged telegraphic mistake in the account of it. [Who received
+the erroneous telegrams?]</p>
+
+<p>Though he may not deem it prudent to take my life just now,
+the publication of this article I feel sure must compel Gen.
+Winters (with his peculiar views about his right to exemption
+from criticism by me) to resolve on my violent death, though it
+may take years to compass it. Notwithstanding I bear him no ill
+will; and if W. C. Ralston and William Sharon, and other members
+of the San Francisco mining and milling Ring feel that he above
+all other men in this State and California is the most fitting
+man to supervise and control Yellow Jacket matters, until I am
+able to vote more than half their stock I presume he will be
+retained to grace his present post.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime, I cordially invite all who know of any sort of
+important villainy which only can be cured by exposure (and who
+would expose it if they felt sure they would not be betrayed
+under bullying threats), to communicate with the PEOPLE'S
+TRIBUNE; for until I am murdered, so long as I can raise the
+means to publish, I propose to continue my efforts at least to
+revive the liberties of the State, to curb oppression, and to
+benefit man's world and God's earth. <br><br>CONRAD WIEGAND.</p>
+
+<br><br>
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>[It does seem a pity that the Sheriff was shut out, since the
+good sense of a general of militia and of a prominent editor
+failed to teach them that the merited castigation of this weak,
+half-witted child was a thing that ought to have been done in the
+street, where the poor thing could have a chance to run. When a
+journalist maligns a citizen, or attacks his good name on hearsay
+evidence, he deserves to be thrashed for it, even if he is a
+"non-combatant" weakling; but a generous adversary would at least
+allow such a lamb the use of his legs at such a time.&mdash;M. T.]</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Roughing It, Part 8.
+by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
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+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's Roughing It, Part 8., by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Roughing It, Part 8.
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: July 3, 2004 [EBook #8589]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 8. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+ ROUGHING IT
+
+ by Mark Twain
+
+ 1880
+
+ Part 8.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXI.
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon we were winding down a mountain of
+dreary and desolate lava to the sea, and closing our pleasant land
+journey. This lava is the accumulation of ages; one torrent of fire
+after another has rolled down here in old times, and built up the island
+structure higher and higher. Underneath, it is honey-combed with caves;
+it would be of no use to dig wells in such a place; they would not hold
+water--you would not find any for them to hold, for that matter.
+Consequently, the planters depend upon cisterns.
+
+The last lava flow occurred here so long ago that there are none now
+living who witnessed it. In one place it enclosed and burned down a
+grove of cocoa-nut trees, and the holes in the lava where the trunks
+stood are still visible; their sides retain the impression of the bark;
+the trees fell upon the burning river, and becoming partly submerged,
+left in it the perfect counterpart of every knot and branch and leaf,
+and even nut, for curiosity seekers of a long distant day to gaze upon
+and wonder at.
+
+There were doubtless plenty of Kanaka sentinels on guard hereabouts at
+that time, but they did not leave casts of their figures in the lava as
+the Roman sentinels at Herculaneum and Pompeii did. It is a pity it is
+so, because such things are so interesting; but so it is. They probably
+went away. They went away early, perhaps. However, they had their
+merits; the Romans exhibited the higher pluck, but the Kanakas showed the
+sounder judgment.
+
+Shortly we came in sight of that spot whose history is so familiar to
+every school-boy in the wide world--Kealakekua Bay--the place where
+Captain Cook, the great circumnavigator, was killed by the natives,
+nearly a hundred years ago. The setting sun was flaming upon it, a
+Summer shower was falling, and it was spanned by two magnificent
+rainbows. Two men who were in advance of us rode through one of these
+and for a moment their garments shone with a more than regal splendor.
+Why did not Captain Cook have taste enough to call his great discovery
+the Rainbow Islands? These charming spectacles are present to you at
+every turn; they are common in all the islands; they are visible every
+day, and frequently at night also--not the silvery bow we see once in an
+age in the States, by moonlight, but barred with all bright and beautiful
+colors, like the children of the sun and rain. I saw one of them a few
+nights ago. What the sailors call "raindogs"--little patches of rainbow
+--are often seen drifting about the heavens in these latitudes, like
+stained cathedral windows.
+
+Kealakekua Bay is a little curve like the last kink of a snail-shell,
+winding deep into the land, seemingly not more than a mile wide from
+shore to shore. It is bounded on one side--where the murder was done--by
+a little flat plain, on which stands a cocoanut grove and some ruined
+houses; a steep wall of lava, a thousand feet high at the upper end and
+three or four hundred at the lower, comes down from the mountain and
+bounds the inner extremity of it. From this wall the place takes its
+name, Kealakekua, which in the native tongue signifies "The Pathway of
+the Gods." They say, (and still believe, in spite of their liberal
+education in Christianity), that the great god Lono, who used to live
+upon the hillside, always traveled that causeway when urgent business
+connected with heavenly affairs called him down to the seashore in a
+hurry.
+
+As the red sun looked across the placid ocean through the tall, clean
+stems of the cocoanut trees, like a blooming whiskey bloat through the
+bars of a city prison, I went and stood in the edge of the water on the
+flat rock pressed by Captain Cook's feet when the blow was dealt which
+took away his life, and tried to picture in my mind the doomed man
+struggling in the midst of the multitude of exasperated savages--the men
+in the ship crowding to the vessel's side and gazing in anxious dismay
+toward the shore--the--but I discovered that I could not do it.
+
+It was growing dark, the rain began to fall, we could see that the
+distant Boomerang was helplessly becalmed at sea, and so I adjourned to
+the cheerless little box of a warehouse and sat down to smoke and think,
+and wish the ship would make the land--for we had not eaten much for ten
+hours and were viciously hungry.
+
+Plain unvarnished history takes the romance out of Captain Cook's
+assassination, and renders a deliberate verdict of justifiable homicide.
+Wherever he went among the islands, he was cordially received and
+welcomed by the inhabitants, and his ships lavishly supplied with all
+manner of food. He returned these kindnesses with insult and
+ill-treatment. Perceiving that the people took him for the long vanished
+and lamented god Lono, he encouraged them in the delusion for the sake of
+the limitless power it gave him; but during the famous disturbance at
+this spot, and while he and his comrades were surrounded by fifteen
+thousand maddened savages, he received a hurt and betrayed his earthly
+origin with a groan. It was his death-warrant. Instantly a shout went
+up: "He groans!--he is not a god!" So they closed in upon him and
+dispatched him.
+
+His flesh was stripped from the bones and burned (except nine pounds of
+it which were sent on board the ships). The heart was hung up in a
+native hut, where it was found and eaten by three children, who mistook
+it for the heart of a dog. One of these children grew to be a very old
+man, and died in Honolulu a few years ago. Some of Cook's bones were
+recovered and consigned to the deep by the officers of the ships.
+
+Small blame should attach to the natives for the killing of Cook.
+They treated him well. In return, he abused them. He and his men
+inflicted bodily injury upon many of them at different times, and killed
+at least three of them before they offered any proportionate retaliation.
+
+Near the shore we found "Cook's Monument"--only a cocoanut stump, four
+feet high and about a foot in diameter at the butt. It had lava boulders
+piled around its base to hold it up and keep it in its place, and it was
+entirely sheathed over, from top to bottom, with rough, discolored sheets
+of copper, such as ships' bottoms are coppered with. Each sheet had a
+rude inscription scratched upon it--with a nail, apparently--and in every
+case the execution was wretched. Most of these merely recorded the
+visits of British naval commanders to the spot, but one of them bore this
+legend:
+
+ "Near this spot fell
+ CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,
+ The Distinguished Circumnavigator,
+ Who Discovered these Islands
+ A. D. 1778."
+
+After Cook's murder, his second in command, on board the ship, opened
+fire upon the swarms of natives on the beach, and one of his cannon balls
+cut this cocoanut tree short off and left this monumental stump standing.
+It looked sad and lonely enough to us, out there in the rainy twilight.
+But there is no other monument to Captain Cook. True, up on the mountain
+side we had passed by a large inclosure like an ample hog-pen, built of
+lava blocks, which marks the spot where Cook's flesh was stripped from
+his bones and burned; but this is not properly a monument since it was
+erected by the natives themselves, and less to do honor to the
+circumnavigator than for the sake of convenience in roasting him.
+A thing like a guide-board was elevated above this pen on a tall pole,
+and formerly there was an inscription upon it describing the memorable
+occurrence that had there taken place; but the sun and the wind have long
+ago so defaced it as to render it illegible.
+
+Toward midnight a fine breeze sprang up and the schooner soon worked
+herself into the bay and cast anchor. The boat came ashore for us, and
+in a little while the clouds and the rain were all gone. The moon was
+beaming tranquilly down on land and sea, and we two were stretched upon
+the deck sleeping the refreshing sleep and dreaming the happy dreams that
+are only vouchsafed to the weary and the innocent.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXII.
+
+In the breezy morning we went ashore and visited the ruined temple of the
+last god Lono. The high chief cook of this temple--the priest who
+presided over it and roasted the human sacrifices--was uncle to Obookia,
+and at one time that youth was an apprentice-priest under him. Obookia
+was a young native of fine mind, who, together with three other native
+boys, was taken to New England by the captain of a whaleship during the
+reign of Kamehameha I, and they were the means of attracting the
+attention of the religious world to their country. This resulted in the
+sending of missionaries there. And this Obookia was the very same
+sensitive savage who sat down on the church steps and wept because his
+people did not have the Bible. That incident has been very elaborately
+painted in many a charming Sunday School book--aye, and told so
+plaintively and so tenderly that I have cried over it in Sunday School
+myself, on general principles, although at a time when I did not know
+much and could not understand why the people of the Sandwich Islands
+needed to worry so much about it as long as they did not know there was a
+Bible at all.
+
+Obookia was converted and educated, and was to have returned to his
+native land with the first missionaries, had he lived. The other native
+youths made the voyage, and two of them did good service, but the third,
+William Kanui, fell from grace afterward, for a time, and when the gold
+excitement broke out in California he journeyed thither and went to
+mining, although he was fifty years old. He succeeded pretty well, but
+the failure of Page, Bacon & Co. relieved him of six thousand dollars,
+and then, to all intents and purposes, he was a bankrupt in his old age
+and he resumed service in the pulpit again. He died in Honolulu in 1864.
+
+Quite a broad tract of land near the temple, extending from the sea to
+the mountain top, was sacred to the god Lono in olden times--so sacred
+that if a common native set his sacrilegious foot upon it it was
+judicious for him to make his will, because his time had come. He might
+go around it by water, but he could not cross it. It was well sprinkled
+with pagan temples and stocked with awkward, homely idols carved out of
+logs of wood. There was a temple devoted to prayers for rain--and with
+fine sagacity it was placed at a point so well up on the mountain side
+that if you prayed there twenty-four times a day for rain you would be
+likely to get it every time. You would seldom get to your Amen before
+you would have to hoist your umbrella.
+
+And there was a large temple near at hand which was built in a single
+night, in the midst of storm and thunder and rain, by the ghastly hands
+of dead men! Tradition says that by the weird glare of the lightning a
+noiseless multitude of phantoms were seen at their strange labor far up
+the mountain side at dead of night--flitting hither and thither and
+bearing great lava-blocks clasped in their nerveless fingers--appearing
+and disappearing as the pallid lustre fell upon their forms and faded
+away again. Even to this day, it is said, the natives hold this dread
+structure in awe and reverence, and will not pass by it in the night.
+
+At noon I observed a bevy of nude native young ladies bathing in the sea,
+and went and sat down on their clothes to keep them from being stolen.
+I begged them to come out, for the sea was rising and I was satisfied
+that they were running some risk. But they were not afraid, and
+presently went on with their sport. They were finished swimmers and
+divers, and enjoyed themselves to the last degree.
+
+They swam races, splashed and ducked and tumbled each other about, and
+filled the air with their laughter. It is said that the first thing an
+Islander learns is how to swim; learning to walk being a matter of
+smaller consequence, comes afterward. One hears tales of native men and
+women swimming ashore from vessels many miles at sea--more miles, indeed,
+than I dare vouch for or even mention. And they tell of a native diver
+who went down in thirty or forty-foot waters and brought up an anvil!
+I think he swallowed the anvil afterward, if my memory serves me.
+However I will not urge this point.
+
+I have spoken, several times, of the god Lono--I may as well furnish two
+or three sentences concerning him.
+
+The idol the natives worshipped for him was a slender, unornamented staff
+twelve feet long. Tradition says he was a favorite god on the Island of
+Hawaii--a great king who had been deified for meritorious services--just
+our own fashion of rewarding heroes, with the difference that we would
+have made him a Postmaster instead of a god, no doubt. In an angry
+moment he slew his wife, a goddess named Kaikilani Aiii. Remorse of
+conscience drove him mad, and tradition presents us the singular
+spectacle of a god traveling "on the shoulder;" for in his gnawing grief
+he wandered about from place to place boxing and wrestling with all whom
+he met. Of course this pastime soon lost its novelty, inasmuch as it
+must necessarily have been the case that when so powerful a deity sent a
+frail human opponent "to grass" he never came back any more. Therefore,
+he instituted games called makahiki, and ordered that they should be held
+in his honor, and then sailed for foreign lands on a three-cornered raft,
+stating that he would return some day--and that was the last of Lono.
+He was never seen any more; his raft got swamped, perhaps. But the
+people always expected his return, and thus they were easily led to
+accept Captain Cook as the restored god.
+
+Some of the old natives believed Cook was Lono to the day of their death;
+but many did not, for they could not understand how he could die if he
+was a god.
+
+Only a mile or so from Kealakekua Bay is a spot of historic interest--the
+place where the last battle was fought for idolatry. Of course we
+visited it, and came away as wise as most people do who go and gaze upon
+such mementoes of the past when in an unreflective mood.
+
+While the first missionaries were on their way around the Horn, the
+idolatrous customs which had obtained in the island, as far back as
+tradition reached were suddenly broken up. Old Kamehameha I., was dead,
+and his son, Liholiho, the new King was a free liver, a roystering,
+dissolute fellow, and hated the restraints of the ancient tabu. His
+assistant in the Government, Kaahumanu, the Queen dowager, was proud and
+high-spirited, and hated the tabu because it restricted the privileges of
+her sex and degraded all women very nearly to the level of brutes.
+So the case stood. Liholiho had half a mind to put his foot down,
+Kaahumahu had a whole mind to badger him into doing it, and whiskey did
+the rest. It was probably the rest. It was probably the first time
+whiskey ever prominently figured as an aid to civilization. Liholiho
+came up to Kailua as drunk as a piper, and attended a great feast; the
+determined Queen spurred his drunken courage up to a reckless pitch, and
+then, while all the multitude stared in blank dismay, he moved
+deliberately forward and sat down with the women!
+
+They saw him eat from the same vessel with them, and were appalled!
+Terrible moments drifted slowly by, and still the King ate, still he
+lived, still the lightnings of the insulted gods were withheld!
+Then conviction came like a revelation--the superstitions of a hundred
+generations passed from before the people like a cloud, and a shout went
+up, "the tabu is broken! the tabu is broken!"
+
+Thus did King Liholiho and his dreadful whiskey preach the first sermon
+and prepare the way for the new gospel that was speeding southward over
+the waves of the Atlantic.
+
+The tabu broken and destruction failing to follow the awful sacrilege,
+the people, with that childlike precipitancy which has always
+characterized them, jumped to the conclusion that their gods were a weak
+and wretched swindle, just as they formerly jumped to the conclusion that
+Captain Cook was no god, merely because he groaned, and promptly killed
+him without stopping to inquire whether a god might not groan as well as
+a man if it suited his convenience to do it; and satisfied that the idols
+were powerless to protect themselves they went to work at once and pulled
+them down--hacked them to pieces--applied the torch--annihilated them!
+
+The pagan priests were furious. And well they might be; they had held
+the fattest offices in the land, and now they were beggared; they had
+been great--they had stood above the chiefs--and now they were vagabonds.
+They raised a revolt; they scared a number of people into joining their
+standard, and Bekuokalani, an ambitious offshoot of royalty, was easily
+persuaded to become their leader.
+
+In the first skirmish the idolaters triumphed over the royal army sent
+against them, and full of confidence they resolved to march upon Kailua.
+The King sent an envoy to try and conciliate them, and came very near
+being an envoy short by the operation; the savages not only refused to
+listen to him, but wanted to kill him. So the King sent his men forth
+under Major General Kalaimoku and the two host met a Kuamoo. The battle
+was long and fierce--men and women fighting side by side, as was the
+custom--and when the day was done the rebels were flying in every
+direction in hopeless panic, and idolatry and the tabu were dead in the
+land!
+
+The royalists marched gayly home to Kailua glorifying the new
+dispensation. "There is no power in the gods," said they; "they are a
+vanity and a lie. The army with idols was weak; the army without idols
+was strong and victorious!"
+
+The nation was without a religion.
+
+The missionary ship arrived in safety shortly afterward, timed by
+providential exactness to meet the emergency, and the Gospel was planted
+as in a virgin soil.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIII.
+
+At noon, we hired a Kanaka to take us down to the ancient ruins at
+Honaunan in his canoe--price two dollars--reasonable enough, for a sea
+voyage of eight miles, counting both ways.
+
+The native canoe is an irresponsible looking contrivance. I cannot think
+of anything to liken it to but a boy's sled runner hollowed out, and that
+does not quite convey the correct idea. It is about fifteen feet long,
+high and pointed at both ends, is a foot and a half or two feet deep, and
+so narrow that if you wedged a fat man into it you might not get him out
+again. It sits on top of the water like a duck, but it has an outrigger
+and does not upset easily, if you keep still. This outrigger is formed
+of two long bent sticks like plow handles, which project from one side,
+and to their outer ends is bound a curved beam composed of an extremely
+light wood, which skims along the surface of the water and thus saves you
+from an upset on that side, while the outrigger's weight is not so easily
+lifted as to make an upset on the other side a thing to be greatly
+feared. Still, until one gets used to sitting perched upon this
+knifeblade, he is apt to reason within himself that it would be more
+comfortable if there were just an outrigger or so on the other side also.
+I had the bow seat, and Billings sat amidships and faced the Kanaka, who
+occupied the stern of the craft and did the paddling. With the first
+stroke the trim shell of a thing shot out from the shore like an arrow.
+There was not much to see. While we were on the shallow water of the
+reef, it was pastime to look down into the limpid depths at the large
+bunches of branching coral--the unique shrubbery of the sea. We lost
+that, though, when we got out into the dead blue water of the deep.
+But we had the picture of the surf, then, dashing angrily against the
+crag-bound shore and sending a foaming spray high into the air.
+
+There was interest in this beetling border, too, for it was honey-combed
+with quaint caves and arches and tunnels, and had a rude semblance of the
+dilapidated architecture of ruined keeps and castles rising out of the
+restless sea. When this novelty ceased to be a novelty, we turned our
+eyes shoreward and gazed at the long mountain with its rich green forests
+stretching up into the curtaining clouds, and at the specks of houses in
+the rearward distance and the diminished schooner riding sleepily at
+anchor. And when these grew tiresome we dashed boldly into the midst of
+a school of huge, beastly porpoises engaged at their eternal game of
+arching over a wave and disappearing, and then doing it over again and
+keeping it up--always circling over, in that way, like so many
+well-submerged wheels. But the porpoises wheeled themselves away, and
+then we were thrown upon our own resources. It did not take many minutes
+to discover that the sun was blazing like a bonfire, and that the weather
+was of a melting temperature. It had a drowsing effect, too. In one
+place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and
+all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing.
+Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea, (taking
+a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly
+prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his
+board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would
+come whizzing by like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning
+express train could shoot along at a more hair-lifting speed. I tried
+surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the
+board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the
+connection myself.--The board struck the shore in three quarters of a
+second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time,
+with a couple of barrels of water in me. None but natives ever master
+the art of surf-bathing thoroughly.
+
+At the end of an hour, we had made the four miles, and landed on a level
+point of land, upon which was a wide extent of old ruins, with many a
+tall cocoanut tree growing among them. Here was the ancient City of
+Refuge--a vast inclosure, whose stone walls were twenty feet thick at the
+base, and fifteen feet high; an oblong square, a thousand and forty feet
+one way and a fraction under seven hundred the other. Within this
+inclosure, in early times, has been three rude temples; each two hundred
+and ten feet long by one hundred wide, and thirteen high.
+
+In those days, if a man killed another anywhere on the island the
+relatives were privileged to take the murderer's life; and then a chase
+for life and liberty began--the outlawed criminal flying through pathless
+forests and over mountain and plain, with his hopes fixed upon the
+protecting walls of the City of Refuge, and the avenger of blood
+following hotly after him!
+
+Sometimes the race was kept up to the very gates of the temple, and the
+panting pair sped through long files of excited natives, who watched the
+contest with flashing eye and dilated nostril, encouraging the hunted
+refugee with sharp, inspiriting ejaculations, and sending up a ringing
+shout of exultation when the saving gates closed upon him and the cheated
+pursuer sank exhausted at the threshold. But sometimes the flying
+criminal fell under the hand of the avenger at the very door, when one
+more brave stride, one more brief second of time would have brought his
+feet upon the sacred ground and barred him against all harm. Where did
+these isolated pagans get this idea of a City of Refuge--this ancient
+Oriental custom?
+
+This old sanctuary was sacred to all--even to rebels in arms and invading
+armies. Once within its walls, and confession made to the priest and
+absolution obtained, the wretch with a price upon his head could go forth
+without fear and without danger--he was tabu, and to harm him was death.
+The routed rebels in the lost battle for idolatry fled to this place to
+claim sanctuary, and many were thus saved.
+
+Close to the corner of the great inclosure is a round structure of stone,
+some six or eight feet high, with a level top about ten or twelve in
+diameter. This was the place of execution. A high palisade of cocoanut
+piles shut out the cruel scenes from the vulgar multitude. Here
+criminals were killed, the flesh stripped from the bones and burned, and
+the bones secreted in holes in the body of the structure. If the man had
+been guilty of a high crime, the entire corpse was burned.
+
+The walls of the temple are a study. The same food for speculation that
+is offered the visitor to the Pyramids of Egypt he will find here--the
+mystery of how they were constructed by a people unacquainted with
+science and mechanics. The natives have no invention of their own for
+hoisting heavy weights, they had no beasts of burden, and they have never
+even shown any knowledge of the properties of the lever. Yet some of the
+lava blocks quarried out, brought over rough, broken ground, and built
+into this wall, six or seven feet from the ground, are of prodigious size
+and would weigh tons. How did they transport and how raise them?
+
+Both the inner and outer surfaces of the walls present a smooth front and
+are very creditable specimens of masonry. The blocks are of all manner
+of shapes and sizes, but yet are fitted together with the neatest
+exactness. The gradual narrowing of the wall from the base upward is
+accurately preserved.
+
+No cement was used, but the edifice is firm and compact and is capable of
+resisting storm and decay for centuries. Who built this temple, and how
+was it built, and when, are mysteries that may never be unraveled.
+Outside of these ancient walls lies a sort of coffin-shaped stone eleven
+feet four inches long and three feet square at the small end (it would
+weigh a few thousand pounds), which the high chief who held sway over
+this district many centuries ago brought thither on his shoulder one day
+to use as a lounge! This circumstance is established by the most
+reliable traditions. He used to lie down on it, in his indolent way, and
+keep an eye on his subjects at work for him and see that there was no
+"soldiering" done. And no doubt there was not any done to speak of,
+because he was a man of that sort of build that incites to attention to
+business on the part of an employee.
+
+He was fourteen or fifteen feet high. When he stretched himself at full
+length on his lounge, his legs hung down over the end, and when he snored
+he woke the dead. These facts are all attested by irrefragable
+tradition.
+
+On the other side of the temple is a monstrous seven-ton rock, eleven
+feet long, seven feet wide and three feet thick. It is raised a foot or
+a foot and a half above the ground, and rests upon half a dozen little
+stony pedestals. The same old fourteen-footer brought it down from the
+mountain, merely for fun (he had his own notions about fun), and propped
+it up as we find it now and as others may find it a century hence, for it
+would take a score of horses to budge it from its position. They say
+that fifty or sixty years ago the proud Queen Kaahumanu used to fly to
+this rock for safety, whenever she had been making trouble with her
+fierce husband, and hide under it until his wrath was appeased. But
+these Kanakas will lie, and this statement is one of their ablest
+efforts--for Kaahumanu was six feet high--she was bulky--she was built
+like an ox--and she could no more have squeezed herself under that rock
+than she could have passed between the cylinders of a sugar mill. What
+could she gain by it, even if she succeeded? To be chased and abused by
+a savage husband could not be otherwise than humiliating to her high
+spirit, yet it could never make her feel so flat as an hour's repose
+under that rock would.
+
+We walked a mile over a raised macadamized road of uniform width; a road
+paved with flat stones and exhibiting in its every detail a considerable
+degree of engineering skill. Some say that that wise old pagan,
+Kamehameha I planned and built it, but others say it was built so long
+before his time that the knowledge of who constructed it has passed out
+of the traditions. In either case, however, as the handiwork of an
+untaught and degraded race it is a thing of pleasing interest. The
+stones are worn and smooth, and pushed apart in places, so that the road
+has the exact appearance of those ancient paved highways leading out of
+Rome which one sees in pictures.
+
+The object of our tramp was to visit a great natural curiosity at the
+base of the foothills--a congealed cascade of lava. Some old forgotten
+volcanic eruption sent its broad river of fire down the mountain side
+here, and it poured down in a great torrent from an overhanging bluff
+some fifty feet high to the ground below. The flaming torrent cooled in
+the winds from the sea, and remains there to-day, all seamed, and frothed
+and rippled a petrified Niagara. It is very picturesque, and withal so
+natural that one might almost imagine it still flowed. A smaller stream
+trickled over the cliff and built up an isolated pyramid about thirty
+feet high, which has the semblance of a mass of large gnarled and knotted
+vines and roots and stems intricately twisted and woven together.
+
+We passed in behind the cascade and the pyramid, and found the bluff
+pierced by several cavernous tunnels, whose crooked courses we followed a
+long distance.
+
+Two of these winding tunnels stand as proof of Nature's mining abilities.
+Their floors are level, they are seven feet wide, and their roofs are
+gently arched. Their height is not uniform, however. We passed through
+one a hundred feet long, which leads through a spur of the hill and opens
+out well up in the sheer wall of a precipice whose foot rests in the
+waves of the sea. It is a commodious tunnel, except that there are
+occasional places in it where one must stoop to pass under. The roof is
+lava, of course, and is thickly studded with little lava-pointed icicles
+an inch long, which hardened as they dripped. They project as closely
+together as the iron teeth of a corn-sheller, and if one will stand up
+straight and walk any distance there, he can get his hair combed free of
+charge.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIV.
+
+We got back to the schooner in good time, and then sailed down to Kau,
+where we disembarked and took final leave of the vessel. Next day we
+bought horses and bent our way over the summer-clad mountain-terraces,
+toward the great volcano of Kilauea (Ke-low-way-ah). We made nearly a
+two days' journey of it, but that was on account of laziness. Toward
+sunset on the second day, we reached an elevation of some four thousand
+feet above sea level, and as we picked our careful way through billowy
+wastes of lava long generations ago stricken dead and cold in the climax
+of its tossing fury, we began to come upon signs of the near presence of
+the volcano--signs in the nature of ragged fissures that discharged jets
+of sulphurous vapor into the air, hot from the molten ocean down in the
+bowels of the mountain.
+
+Shortly the crater came into view. I have seen Vesuvius since, but it
+was a mere toy, a child's volcano, a soup-kettle, compared to this.
+Mount Vesuvius is a shapely cone thirty-six hundred feet high; its crater
+an inverted cone only three hundred feet deep, and not more than a
+thousand feet in diameter, if as much as that; its fires meagre, modest,
+and docile.--But here was a vast, perpendicular, walled cellar, nine
+hundred feet deep in some places, thirteen hundred in others,
+level-floored, and ten miles in circumference! Here was a yawning pit
+upon whose floor the armies of Russia could camp, and have room to spare.
+
+Perched upon the edge of the crater, at the opposite end from where we
+stood, was a small look-out house--say three miles away. It assisted us,
+by comparison, to comprehend and appreciate the great depth of the basin
+--it looked like a tiny martin-box clinging at the eaves of a cathedral.
+After some little time spent in resting and looking and ciphering, we
+hurried on to the hotel.
+
+By the path it is half a mile from the Volcano House to the
+lookout-house. After a hearty supper we waited until it was thoroughly
+dark and then started to the crater. The first glance in that direction
+revealed a scene of wild beauty. There was a heavy fog over the crater
+and it was splendidly illuminated by the glare from the fires below. The
+illumination was two miles wide and a mile high, perhaps; and if you
+ever, on a dark night and at a distance beheld the light from thirty or
+forty blocks of distant buildings all on fire at once, reflected strongly
+against over-hanging clouds, you can form a fair idea of what this looked
+like.
+
+A colossal column of cloud towered to a great height in the air
+immediately above the crater, and the outer swell of every one of its
+vast folds was dyed with a rich crimson luster, which was subdued to a
+pale rose tint in the depressions between. It glowed like a muffled
+torch and stretched upward to a dizzy height toward the zenith. I
+thought it just possible that its like had not been seen since the
+children of Israel wandered on their long march through the desert so
+many centuries ago over a path illuminated by the mysterious "pillar of
+fire." And I was sure that I now had a vivid conception of what the
+majestic "pillar of fire" was like, which almost amounted to a
+revelation.
+
+Arrived at the little thatched lookout house, we rested our elbows on the
+railing in front and looked abroad over the wide crater and down over the
+sheer precipice at the seething fires beneath us. The view was a
+startling improvement on my daylight experience. I turned to see the
+effect on the balance of the company and found the reddest-faced set of
+men I almost ever saw. In the strong light every countenance glowed like
+red-hot iron, every shoulder was suffused with crimson and shaded
+rearward into dingy, shapeless obscurity! The place below looked like
+the infernal regions and these men like half-cooled devils just come up
+on a furlough.
+
+I turned my eyes upon the volcano again. The "cellar" was tolerably well
+lighted up. For a mile and a half in front of us and half a mile on
+either side, the floor of the abyss was magnificently illuminated; beyond
+these limits the mists hung down their gauzy curtains and cast a
+deceptive gloom over all that made the twinkling fires in the remote
+corners of the crater seem countless leagues removed--made them seem like
+the camp-fires of a great army far away. Here was room for the
+imagination to work! You could imagine those lights the width of a
+continent away--and that hidden under the intervening darkness were
+hills, and winding rivers, and weary wastes of plain and desert--and even
+then the tremendous vista stretched on, and on, and on!--to the fires and
+far beyond! You could not compass it--it was the idea of eternity made
+tangible--and the longest end of it made visible to the naked eye!
+
+The greater part of the vast floor of the desert under us was as black as
+ink, and apparently smooth and level; but over a mile square of it was
+ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand branching streams of
+liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire! It looked like a colossal railroad
+map of the State of Massachusetts done in chain lightning on a midnight
+sky. Imagine it--imagine a coal-black sky shivered into a tangled
+net-work of angry fire!
+
+Here and there were gleaming holes a hundred feet in diameter, broken in
+the dark crust, and in them the melted lava--the color a dazzling white
+just tinged with yellow--was boiling and surging furiously; and from
+these holes branched numberless bright torrents in many directions, like
+the spokes of a wheel, and kept a tolerably straight course for a while
+and then swept round in huge rainbow curves, or made a long succession of
+sharp worm-fence angles, which looked precisely like the fiercest jagged
+lightning. These streams met other streams, and they mingled with and
+crossed and recrossed each other in every conceivable direction, like
+skate tracks on a popular skating ground. Sometimes streams twenty or
+thirty feet wide flowed from the holes to some distance without dividing
+--and through the opera-glasses we could see that they ran down small,
+steep hills and were genuine cataracts of fire, white at their source,
+but soon cooling and turning to the richest red, grained with alternate
+lines of black and gold. Every now and then masses of the dark crust
+broke away and floated slowly down these streams like rafts down a river.
+Occasionally the molten lava flowing under the superincumbent crust broke
+through--split a dazzling streak, from five hundred to a thousand feet
+long, like a sudden flash of lightning, and then acre after acre of the
+cold lava parted into fragments, turned up edgewise like cakes of ice
+when a great river breaks up, plunged downward and were swallowed in the
+crimson cauldron. Then the wide expanse of the "thaw" maintained a ruddy
+glow for a while, but shortly cooled and became black and level again.
+During a "thaw," every dismembered cake was marked by a glittering white
+border which was superbly shaded inward by aurora borealis rays, which
+were a flaming yellow where they joined the white border, and from thence
+toward their points tapered into glowing crimson, then into a rich, pale
+carmine, and finally into a faint blush that held its own a moment and
+then dimmed and turned black. Some of the streams preferred to mingle
+together in a tangle of fantastic circles, and then they looked something
+like the confusion of ropes one sees on a ship's deck when she has just
+taken in sail and dropped anchor--provided one can imagine those ropes on
+fire.
+
+Through the glasses, the little fountains scattered about looked very
+beautiful. They boiled, and coughed, and spluttered, and discharged
+sprays of stringy red fire--of about the consistency of mush, for
+instance--from ten to fifteen feet into the air, along with a shower of
+brilliant white sparks--a quaint and unnatural mingling of gouts of blood
+and snow-flakes!
+
+We had circles and serpents and streaks of lightning all twined and
+wreathed and tied together, without a break throughout an area more than
+a mile square (that amount of ground was covered, though it was not
+strictly "square"), and it was with a feeling of placid exultation that
+we reflected that many years had elapsed since any visitor had seen such
+a splendid display--since any visitor had seen anything more than the now
+snubbed and insignificant "North" and "South" lakes in action. We had
+been reading old files of Hawaiian newspapers and the "Record Book" at
+the Volcano House, and were posted.
+
+I could see the North Lake lying out on the black floor away off in the
+outer edge of our panorama, and knitted to it by a web-work of lava
+streams. In its individual capacity it looked very little more
+respectable than a schoolhouse on fire. True, it was about nine hundred
+feet long and two or three hundred wide, but then, under the present
+circumstances, it necessarily appeared rather insignificant, and besides
+it was so distant from us.
+
+I forgot to say that the noise made by the bubbling lava is not great,
+heard as we heard it from our lofty perch. It makes three distinct
+sounds--a rushing, a hissing, and a coughing or puffing sound; and if you
+stand on the brink and close your eyes it is no trick at all to imagine
+that you are sweeping down a river on a large low-pressure steamer, and
+that you hear the hissing of the steam about her boilers, the puffing
+from her escape-pipes and the churning rush of the water abaft her
+wheels. The smell of sulphur is strong, but not unpleasant to a sinner.
+
+We left the lookout house at ten o'clock in a half cooked condition,
+because of the heat from Pele's furnaces, and wrapping up in blankets,
+for the night was cold, we returned to our Hotel.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXV.
+
+The next night was appointed for a visit to the bottom of the crater, for
+we desired to traverse its floor and see the "North Lake" (of fire) which
+lay two miles away, toward the further wall. After dark half a dozen of
+us set out, with lanterns and native guides, and climbed down a crazy,
+thousand-foot pathway in a crevice fractured in the crater wall, and
+reached the bottom in safety.
+
+The irruption of the previous evening had spent its force and the floor
+looked black and cold; but when we ran out upon it we found it hot yet,
+to the feet, and it was likewise riven with crevices which revealed the
+underlying fires gleaming vindictively. A neighboring cauldron was
+threatening to overflow, and this added to the dubiousness of the
+situation. So the native guides refused to continue the venture, and
+then every body deserted except a stranger named Marlette. He said he
+had been in the crater a dozen times in daylight and believed he could
+find his way through it at night. He thought that a run of three hundred
+yards would carry us over the hottest part of the floor and leave us our
+shoe-soles. His pluck gave me back-bone. We took one lantern and
+instructed the guides to hang the other to the roof of the look-out house
+to serve as a beacon for us in case we got lost, and then the party
+started back up the precipice and Marlette and I made our run.
+We skipped over the hot floor and over the red crevices with brisk
+dispatch and reached the cold lava safe but with pretty warm feet. Then
+we took things leisurely and comfortably, jumping tolerably wide and
+probably bottomless chasms, and threading our way through picturesque
+lava upheavals with considerable confidence. When we got fairly away
+from the cauldrons of boiling fire, we seemed to be in a gloomy desert,
+and a suffocatingly dark one, surrounded by dim walls that seemed to
+tower to the sky. The only cheerful objects were the glinting stars high
+overhead.
+
+By and by Marlette shouted "Stop!" I never stopped quicker in my life.
+I asked what the matter was. He said we were out of the path. He said
+we must not try to go on till we found it again, for we were surrounded
+with beds of rotten lava through which we could easily break and plunge
+down a thousand feet. I thought eight hundred would answer for me, and
+was about to say so when Marlette partly proved his statement by
+accidentally crushing through and disappearing to his arm-pits.
+
+He got out and we hunted for the path with the lantern. He said there
+was only one path and that it was but vaguely defined. We could not find
+it. The lava surface was all alike in the lantern light. But he was an
+ingenious man. He said it was not the lantern that had informed him that
+we were out of the path, but his feet. He had noticed a crisp grinding
+of fine lava-needles under his feet, and some instinct reminded him that
+in the path these were all worn away. So he put the lantern behind him,
+and began to search with his boots instead of his eyes. It was good
+sagacity. The first time his foot touched a surface that did not grind
+under it he announced that the trail was found again; and after that we
+kept up a sharp listening for the rasping sound and it always warned us
+in time.
+
+It was a long tramp, but an exciting one. We reached the North Lake
+between ten and eleven o'clock, and sat down on a huge overhanging
+lava-shelf, tired but satisfied. The spectacle presented was worth
+coming double the distance to see. Under us, and stretching away before
+us, was a heaving sea of molten fire of seemingly limitless extent. The
+glare from it was so blinding that it was some time before we could bear
+to look upon it steadily.
+
+It was like gazing at the sun at noon-day, except that the glare was not
+quite so white. At unequal distances all around the shores of the lake
+were nearly white-hot chimneys or hollow drums of lava, four or five feet
+high, and up through them were bursting gorgeous sprays of lava-gouts and
+gem spangles, some white, some red and some golden--a ceaseless
+bombardment, and one that fascinated the eye with its unapproachable
+splendor. The mere distant jets, sparkling up through an intervening
+gossamer veil of vapor, seemed miles away; and the further the curving
+ranks of fiery fountains receded, the more fairy-like and beautiful they
+appeared.
+
+Now and then the surging bosom of the lake under our noses would calm
+down ominously and seem to be gathering strength for an enterprise; and
+then all of a sudden a red dome of lava of the bulk of an ordinary
+dwelling would heave itself aloft like an escaping balloon, then burst
+asunder, and out of its heart would flit a pale-green film of vapor, and
+float upward and vanish in the darkness--a released soul soaring homeward
+from captivity with the damned, no doubt. The crashing plunge of the
+ruined dome into the lake again would send a world of seething billows
+lashing against the shores and shaking the foundations of our perch. By
+and by, a loosened mass of the hanging shelf we sat on tumbled into the
+lake, jarring the surroundings like an earthquake and delivering a
+suggestion that may have been intended for a hint, and may not. We did
+not wait to see.
+
+We got lost again on our way back, and were more than an hour hunting for
+the path. We were where we could see the beacon lantern at the look-out
+house at the time, but thought it was a star and paid no attention to it.
+We reached the hotel at two o'clock in the morning pretty well fagged
+out.
+
+Kilauea never overflows its vast crater, but bursts a passage for its
+lava through the mountain side when relief is necessary, and then the
+destruction is fearful. About 1840 it rent its overburdened stomach and
+sent a broad river of fire careering down to the sea, which swept away
+forests, huts, plantations and every thing else that lay in its path.
+The stream was five miles broad, in places, and two hundred feet deep,
+and the distance it traveled was forty miles. It tore up and bore away
+acre-patches of land on its bosom like rafts--rocks, trees and all
+intact. At night the red glare was visible a hundred miles at sea; and
+at a distance of forty miles fine print could be read at midnight. The
+atmosphere was poisoned with sulphurous vapors and choked with falling
+ashes, pumice stones and cinders; countless columns of smoke rose up and
+blended together in a tumbled canopy that hid the heavens and glowed with
+a ruddy flush reflected from the fires below; here and there jets of lava
+sprung hundreds of feet into the air and burst into rocket-sprays that
+returned to earth in a crimson rain; and all the while the laboring
+mountain shook with Nature's great palsy and voiced its distress in
+moanings and the muffled booming of subterranean thunders.
+
+Fishes were killed for twenty miles along the shore, where the lava
+entered the sea. The earthquakes caused some loss of human life, and a
+prodigious tidal wave swept inland, carrying every thing before it and
+drowning a number of natives. The devastation consummated along the
+route traversed by the river of lava was complete and incalculable. Only
+a Pompeii and a Herculaneum were needed at the foot of Kilauea to make
+the story of the irruption immortal.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVI.
+
+We rode horseback all around the island of Hawaii (the crooked road
+making the distance two hundred miles), and enjoyed the journey very
+much. We were more than a week making the trip, because our Kanaka
+horses would not go by a house or a hut without stopping--whip and spur
+could not alter their minds about it, and so we finally found that it
+economized time to let them have their way. Upon inquiry the mystery was
+explained: the natives are such thorough-going gossips that they never
+pass a house without stopping to swap news, and consequently their horses
+learn to regard that sort of thing as an essential part of the whole duty
+of man, and his salvation not to be compassed without it. However, at a
+former crisis of my life I had once taken an aristocratic young lady out
+driving, behind a horse that had just retired from a long and honorable
+career as the moving impulse of a milk wagon, and so this present
+experience awoke a reminiscent sadness in me in place of the exasperation
+more natural to the occasion. I remembered how helpless I was that day,
+and how humiliated; how ashamed I was of having intimated to the girl
+that I had always owned the horse and was accustomed to grandeur; how
+hard I tried to appear easy, and even vivacious, under suffering that was
+consuming my vitals; how placidly and maliciously the girl smiled, and
+kept on smiling, while my hot blushes baked themselves into a permanent
+blood-pudding in my face; how the horse ambled from one side of the
+street to the other and waited complacently before every third house two
+minutes and a quarter while I belabored his back and reviled him in my
+heart; how I tried to keep him from turning corners and failed; how I
+moved heaven and earth to get him out of town, and did not succeed; how
+he traversed the entire settlement and delivered imaginary milk at a
+hundred and sixty-two different domiciles, and how he finally brought up
+at a dairy depot and refused to budge further, thus rounding and
+completing the revealment of what the plebeian service of his life had
+been; how, in eloquent silence, I walked the girl home, and how, when I
+took leave of her, her parting remark scorched my soul and appeared to
+blister me all over: she said that my horse was a fine, capable animal,
+and I must have taken great comfort in him in my time--but that if I
+would take along some milk-tickets next time, and appear to deliver them
+at the various halting places, it might expedite his movements a little.
+There was a coolness between us after that.
+
+In one place in the island of Hawaii, we saw a laced and ruffled cataract
+of limpid water leaping from a sheer precipice fifteen hundred feet high;
+but that sort of scenery finds its stanchest ally in the arithmetic
+rather than in spectacular effect. If one desires to be so stirred by a
+poem of Nature wrought in the happily commingled graces of picturesque
+rocks, glimpsed distances, foliage, color, shifting lights and shadows,
+and failing water, that the tears almost come into his eyes so potent is
+the charm exerted, he need not go away from America to enjoy such an
+experience. The Rainbow Fall, in Watkins Glen (N.Y.), on the Erie
+railway, is an example. It would recede into pitiable insignificance if
+the callous tourist drew on arithmetic on it; but left to compete for the
+honors simply on scenic grace and beauty--the grand, the august and the
+sublime being barred the contest--it could challenge the old world and
+the new to produce its peer.
+
+In one locality, on our journey, we saw some horses that had been born
+and reared on top of the mountains, above the range of running water, and
+consequently they had never drank that fluid in their lives, but had been
+always accustomed to quenching their thirst by eating dew-laden or
+shower-wetted leaves. And now it was destructively funny to see them
+sniff suspiciously at a pail of water, and then put in their noses and
+try to take a bite out of the fluid, as if it were a solid. Finding it
+liquid, they would snatch away their heads and fall to trembling,
+snorting and showing other evidences of fright. When they became
+convinced at last that the water was friendly and harmless, they thrust
+in their noses up to their eyes, brought out a mouthful of water, and
+proceeded to chew it complacently. We saw a man coax, kick and spur one
+of them five or ten minutes before he could make it cross a running
+stream. It spread its nostrils, distended its eyes and trembled all
+over, just as horses customarily do in the presence of a serpent--and for
+aught I know it thought the crawling stream was a serpent.
+
+In due course of time our journey came to an end at Kawaehae (usually
+pronounced To-a-hi--and before we find fault with this elaborate
+orthographical method of arriving at such an unostentatious result, let
+us lop off the ugh from our word "though"). I made this horseback trip
+on a mule. I paid ten dollars for him at Kau (Kah-oo), added four to get
+him shod, rode him two hundred miles, and then sold him for fifteen
+dollars. I mark the circumstance with a white stone (in the absence of
+chalk--for I never saw a white stone that a body could mark anything
+with, though out of respect for the ancients I have tried it often
+enough); for up to that day and date it was the first strictly commercial
+transaction I had ever entered into, and come out winner. We returned to
+Honolulu, and from thence sailed to the island of Maui, and spent several
+weeks there very pleasantly. I still remember, with a sense of indolent
+luxury, a picnicing excursion up a romantic gorge there, called the Iao
+Valley. The trail lay along the edge of a brawling stream in the bottom
+of the gorge--a shady route, for it was well roofed with the verdant
+domes of forest trees. Through openings in the foliage we glimpsed
+picturesque scenery that revealed ceaseless changes and new charms with
+every step of our progress. Perpendicular walls from one to three
+thousand feet high guarded the way, and were sumptuously plumed with
+varied foliage, in places, and in places swathed in waving ferns.
+Passing shreds of cloud trailed their shadows across these shining
+fronts, mottling them with blots; billowy masses of white vapor hid the
+turreted summits, and far above the vapor swelled a background of
+gleaming green crags and cones that came and went, through the veiling
+mists, like islands drifting in a fog; sometimes the cloudy curtain
+descended till half the canon wall was hidden, then shredded gradually
+away till only airy glimpses of the ferny front appeared through it--then
+swept aloft and left it glorified in the sun again. Now and then, as our
+position changed, rocky bastions swung out from the wall, a mimic ruin of
+castellated ramparts and crumbling towers clothed with mosses and hung
+with garlands of swaying vines, and as we moved on they swung back again
+and hid themselves once more in the foliage. Presently a verdure-clad
+needle of stone, a thousand feet high, stepped out from behind a corner,
+and mounted guard over the mysteries of the valley. It seemed to me that
+if Captain Cook needed a monument, here was one ready made--therefore,
+why not put up his sign here, and sell out the venerable cocoanut stump?
+
+But the chief pride of Maui is her dead volcano of Haleakala--which
+means, translated, "the house of the sun." We climbed a thousand feet up
+the side of this isolated colossus one afternoon; then camped, and next
+day climbed the remaining nine thousand feet, and anchored on the summit,
+where we built a fire and froze and roasted by turns, all night. With
+the first pallor of dawn we got up and saw things that were new to us.
+Mounted on a commanding pinnacle, we watched Nature work her silent
+wonders. The sea was spread abroad on every hand, its tumbled surface
+seeming only wrinkled and dimpled in the distance. A broad valley below
+appeared like an ample checker-board, its velvety green sugar plantations
+alternating with dun squares of barrenness and groves of trees diminished
+to mossy tufts. Beyond the valley were mountains picturesquely grouped
+together; but bear in mind, we fancied that we were looking up at these
+things--not down. We seemed to sit in the bottom of a symmetrical bowl
+ten thousand feet deep, with the valley and the skirting sea lifted away
+into the sky above us! It was curious; and not only curious, but
+aggravating; for it was having our trouble all for nothing, to climb ten
+thousand feet toward heaven and then have to look up at our scenery.
+However, we had to be content with it and make the best of it; for, all
+we could do we could not coax our landscape down out of the clouds.
+Formerly, when I had read an article in which Poe treated of this
+singular fraud perpetrated upon the eye by isolated great altitudes,
+I had looked upon the matter as an invention of his own fancy.
+
+I have spoken of the outside view--but we had an inside one, too. That
+was the yawning dead crater, into which we now and then tumbled rocks,
+half as large as a barrel, from our perch, and saw them go careering down
+the almost perpendicular sides, bounding three hundred feet at a jump;
+kicking up cast-clouds wherever they struck; diminishing to our view as
+they sped farther into distance; growing invisible, finally, and only
+betraying their course by faint little puffs of dust; and coming to a
+halt at last in the bottom of the abyss, two thousand five hundred feet
+down from where they started! It was magnificent sport. We wore
+ourselves out at it.
+
+The crater of Vesuvius, as I have before remarked, is a modest pit about
+a thousand feet deep and three thousand in circumference; that of Kilauea
+is somewhat deeper, and ten miles in circumference. But what are either
+of them compared to the vacant stomach of Haleakala? I will not offer
+any figures of my own, but give official ones--those of Commander Wilkes,
+U.S.N., who surveyed it and testifies that it is twenty-seven miles in
+circumference! If it had a level bottom it would make a fine site for a
+city like London. It must have afforded a spectacle worth contemplating
+in the old days when its furnaces gave full rein to their anger.
+
+Presently vagrant white clouds came drifting along, high over the sea and
+the valley; then they came in couples and groups; then in imposing
+squadrons; gradually joining their forces, they banked themselves solidly
+together, a thousand feet under us, and totally shut out land and ocean
+--not a vestige of anything was left in view but just a little of the rim
+of the crater, circling away from the pinnacle whereon we sat (for a
+ghostly procession of wanderers from the filmy hosts without had drifted
+through a chasm in the crater wall and filed round and round, and
+gathered and sunk and blended together till the abyss was stored to the
+brim with a fleecy fog). Thus banked, motion ceased, and silence
+reigned. Clear to the horizon, league on league, the snowy floor
+stretched without a break--not level, but in rounded folds, with shallow
+creases between, and with here and there stately piles of vapory
+architecture lifting themselves aloft out of the common plain--some near
+at hand, some in the middle distances, and others relieving the monotony
+of the remote solitudes. There was little conversation, for the
+impressive scene overawed speech. I felt like the Last Man, neglected of
+the judgment, and left pinnacled in mid-heaven, a forgotten relic of a
+vanished world.
+
+While the hush yet brooded, the messengers of the coming resurrection
+appeared in the East. A growing warmth suffused the horizon, and soon
+the sun emerged and looked out over the cloud-waste, flinging bars of
+ruddy light across it, staining its folds and billow-caps with blushes,
+purpling the shaded troughs between, and glorifying the massy
+vapor-palaces and cathedrals with a wasteful splendor of all blendings
+and combinations of rich coloring.
+
+It was the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed, and I think the memory
+of it will remain with me always.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVII.
+
+I stumbled upon one curious character in the Island of Mani. He became a
+sore annoyance to me in the course of time. My first glimpse of him was
+in a sort of public room in the town of Lahaina. He occupied a chair at
+the opposite side of the apartment, and sat eyeing our party with
+interest for some minutes, and listening as critically to what we were
+saying as if he fancied we were talking to him and expecting him to
+reply. I thought it very sociable in a stranger. Presently, in the
+course of conversation, I made a statement bearing upon the subject under
+discussion--and I made it with due modesty, for there was nothing
+extraordinary about it, and it was only put forth in illustration of a
+point at issue. I had barely finished when this person spoke out with
+rapid utterance and feverish anxiety:
+
+"Oh, that was certainly remarkable, after a fashion, but you ought to
+have seen my chimney--you ought to have seen my chimney, sir! Smoke!
+I wish I may hang if--Mr. Jones, you remember that chimney--you must
+remember that chimney! No, no--I recollect, now, you warn't living on
+this side of the island then. But I am telling you nothing but the
+truth, and I wish I may never draw another breath if that chimney didn't
+smoke so that the smoke actually got caked in it and I had to dig it out
+with a pickaxe! You may smile, gentlemen, but the High Sheriff's got a
+hunk of it which I dug out before his eyes, and so it's perfectly easy
+for you to go and examine for yourselves."
+
+The interruption broke up the conversation, which had already begun to
+lag, and we presently hired some natives and an out-rigger canoe or two,
+and went out to overlook a grand surf-bathing contest.
+
+Two weeks after this, while talking in a company, I looked up and
+detected this same man boring through and through me with his intense
+eye, and noted again his twitching muscles and his feverish anxiety to
+speak. The moment I paused, he said:
+
+"Beg your pardon, sir, beg your pardon, but it can only be considered
+remarkable when brought into strong outline by isolation. Sir,
+contrasted with a circumstance which occurred in my own experience, it
+instantly becomes commonplace. No, not that--for I will not speak so
+discourteously of any experience in the career of a stranger and a
+gentleman--but I am obliged to say that you could not, and you would not
+ever again refer to this tree as a large one, if you could behold, as I
+have, the great Yakmatack tree, in the island of Ounaska, sea of
+Kamtchatka--a tree, sir, not one inch less than four hundred and fifteen
+feet in solid diameter!--and I wish I may die in a minute if it isn't so!
+Oh, you needn't look so questioning, gentlemen; here's old Cap Saltmarsh
+can say whether I know what I'm talking about or not. I showed him the
+tree."
+
+Captain Saltmarsh--"Come, now, cat your anchor, lad--you're heaving too
+taut. You promised to show me that stunner, and I walked more than
+eleven mile with you through the cussedest jungle I ever see, a hunting
+for it; but the tree you showed me finally warn't as big around as a beer
+cask, and you know that your own self, Markiss."
+
+"Hear the man talk! Of course the tree was reduced that way, but didn't
+I explain it? Answer me, didn't I? Didn't I say I wished you could have
+seen it when I first saw it? When you got up on your ear and called me
+names, and said I had brought you eleven miles to look at a sapling,
+didn't I explain to you that all the whale-ships in the North Seas had
+been wooding off of it for more than twenty-seven years? And did you
+s'pose the tree could last for-ever, con-found it? I don't see why you
+want to keep back things that way, and try to injure a person that's
+never done you any harm."
+
+Somehow this man's presence made me uncomfortable, and I was glad when a
+native arrived at that moment to say that Muckawow, the most
+companionable and luxurious among the rude war-chiefs of the Islands,
+desired us to come over and help him enjoy a missionary whom he had found
+trespassing on his grounds.
+
+I think it was about ten days afterward that, as I finished a statement I
+was making for the instruction of a group of friends and acquaintances,
+and which made no pretence of being extraordinary, a familiar voice
+chimed instantly in on the heels of my last word, and said:
+
+"But, my dear sir, there was nothing remarkable about that horse, or the
+circumstance either--nothing in the world! I mean no sort of offence
+when I say it, sir, but you really do not know anything whatever about
+speed. Bless your heart, if you could only have seen my mare Margaretta;
+there was a beast!--there was lightning for you! Trot! Trot is no name
+for it--she flew! How she could whirl a buggy along! I started her out
+once, sir--Colonel Bilgewater, you recollect that animal perfectly well
+--I started her out about thirty or thirty-five yards ahead of the
+awfullest storm I ever saw in my life, and it chased us upwards of
+eighteen miles! It did, by the everlasting hills! And I'm telling you
+nothing but the unvarnished truth when I say that not one single drop of
+rain fell on me--not a single drop, sir! And I swear to it! But my dog
+was a-swimming behind the wagon all the way!"
+
+For a week or two I stayed mostly within doors, for I seemed to meet this
+person everywhere, and he had become utterly hateful to me. But one
+evening I dropped in on Captain Perkins and his friends, and we had a
+sociable time. About ten o'clock I chanced to be talking about a
+merchant friend of mine, and without really intending it, the remark
+slipped out that he was a little mean and parsimonious about paying his
+workmen. Instantly, through the steam of a hot whiskey punch on the
+opposite side of the room, a remembered voice shot--and for a moment I
+trembled on the imminent verge of profanity:
+
+"Oh, my dear sir, really you expose yourself when you parade that as a
+surprising circumstance. Bless your heart and hide, you are ignorant of
+the very A B C of meanness! ignorant as the unborn babe! ignorant as
+unborn twins! You don't know anything about it! It is pitiable to see
+you, sir, a well-spoken and prepossessing stranger, making such an
+enormous pow-wow here about a subject concerning which your ignorance is
+perfectly humiliating! Look me in the eye, if you please; look me in the
+eye. John James Godfrey was the son of poor but honest parents in the
+State of Mississippi--boyhood friend of mine--bosom comrade in later
+years. Heaven rest his noble spirit, he is gone from us now. John James
+Godfrey was hired by the Hayblossom Mining Company in California to do
+some blasting for them--the "Incorporated Company of Mean Men," the boys
+used to call it.
+
+"Well, one day he drilled a hole about four feet deep and put in an awful
+blast of powder, and was standing over it ramming it down with an iron
+crowbar about nine foot long, when the cussed thing struck a spark and
+fired the powder, and scat! away John Godfrey whizzed like a skyrocket,
+him and his crowbar! Well, sir, he kept on going up in the air higher
+and higher, till he didn't look any bigger than a boy--and he kept going
+on up higher and higher, till he didn't look any bigger than a doll--and
+he kept on going up higher and higher, till he didn't look any bigger
+than a little small bee--and then he went out of sight! Presently he
+came in sight again, looking like a little small bee--and he came along
+down further and further, till he looked as big as a doll again--and down
+further and further, till he was as big as a boy again--and further and
+further, till he was a full-sized man once more; and then him and his
+crowbar came a wh-izzing down and lit right exactly in the same old
+tracks and went to r-ramming down, and r-ramming down, and r-ramming down
+again, just the same as if nothing had happened! Now do you know, that
+poor cuss warn't gone only sixteen minutes, and yet that Incorporated
+Company of Mean Men DOCKED HIM FOR THE LOST TIME!"
+
+I said I had the headache, and so excused myself and went home. And on
+my diary I entered "another night spoiled" by this offensive loafer.
+And a fervent curse was set down with it to keep the item company. And
+the very next day I packed up, out of all patience, and left the Island.
+
+Almost from the very beginning, I regarded that man as a liar.
+
+The line of points represents an interval of years. At the end of which
+time the opinion hazarded in that last sentence came to be gratifyingly
+and remarkably endorsed, and by wholly disinterested persons. The man
+Markiss was found one morning hanging to a beam of his own bedroom (the
+doors and windows securely fastened on the inside), dead; and on his
+breast was pinned a paper in his own handwriting begging his friends to
+suspect no innocent person of having any thing to do with his death, for
+that it was the work of his own hands entirely. Yet the jury brought in
+the astounding verdict that deceased came to his death "by the hands of
+some person or persons unknown!" They explained that the perfectly
+undeviating consistency of Markiss's character for thirty years towered
+aloft as colossal and indestructible testimony, that whatever statement
+he chose to make was entitled to instant and unquestioning acceptance as
+a lie. And they furthermore stated their belief that he was not dead,
+and instanced the strong circumstantial evidence of his own word that he
+was dead--and beseeched the coroner to delay the funeral as long as
+possible, which was done. And so in the tropical climate of Lahaina the
+coffin stood open for seven days, and then even the loyal jury gave him
+up. But they sat on him again, and changed their verdict to "suicide
+induced by mental aberration"--because, said they, with penetration, "he
+said he was dead, and he was dead; and would he have told the truth if he
+had been in his right mind? No, sir."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVIII.
+
+After half a year's luxurious vagrancy in the islands, I took shipping in
+a sailing vessel, and regretfully returned to San Francisco--a voyage in
+every way delightful, but without an incident: unless lying two long
+weeks in a dead calm, eighteen hundred miles from the nearest land, may
+rank as an incident. Schools of whales grew so tame that day after day
+they played about the ship among the porpoises and the sharks without the
+least apparent fear of us, and we pelted them with empty bottles for lack
+of better sport. Twenty-four hours afterward these bottles would be
+still lying on the glassy water under our noses, showing that the ship
+had not moved out of her place in all that time. The calm was absolutely
+breathless, and the surface of the sea absolutely without a wrinkle.
+For a whole day and part of a night we lay so close to another ship that
+had drifted to our vicinity, that we carried on conversations with her
+passengers, introduced each other by name, and became pretty intimately
+acquainted with people we had never heard of before, and have never heard
+of since. This was the only vessel we saw during the whole lonely
+voyage. We had fifteen passengers, and to show how hard pressed they
+were at last for occupation and amusement, I will mention that the
+gentlemen gave a good part of their time every day, during the calm, to
+trying to sit on an empty champagne bottle (lying on its side), and
+thread a needle without touching their heels to the deck, or falling
+over; and the ladies sat in the shade of the mainsail, and watched the
+enterprise with absorbing interest. We were at sea five Sundays; and
+yet, but for the almanac, we never would have known but that all the
+other days were Sundays too.
+
+I was home again, in San Francisco, without means and without employment.
+I tortured my brain for a saving scheme of some kind, and at last a
+public lecture occurred to me! I sat down and wrote one, in a fever of
+hopeful anticipation. I showed it to several friends, but they all shook
+their heads. They said nobody would come to hear me, and I would make a
+humiliating failure of it.
+
+They said that as I had never spoken in public, I would break down in the
+delivery, anyhow. I was disconsolate now. But at last an editor slapped
+me on the back and told me to "go ahead." He said, "Take the largest
+house in town, and charge a dollar a ticket." The audacity of the
+proposition was charming; it seemed fraught with practical worldly
+wisdom, however. The proprietor of the several theatres endorsed the
+advice, and said I might have his handsome new opera-house at half price
+--fifty dollars. In sheer desperation I took it--on credit, for
+sufficient reasons. In three days I did a hundred and fifty dollars'
+worth of printing and advertising, and was the most distressed and
+frightened creature on the Pacific coast. I could not sleep--who could,
+under such circumstances? For other people there was facetiousness in
+the last line of my posters, but to me it was plaintive with a pang when
+I wrote it:
+
+ "Doors open at 7 1/2. The trouble will begin at 8."
+
+That line has done good service since. Showmen have borrowed it
+frequently. I have even seen it appended to a newspaper advertisement
+reminding school pupils in vacation what time next term would begin. As
+those three days of suspense dragged by, I grew more and more unhappy.
+I had sold two hundred tickets among my personal friends, but I feared
+they might not come. My lecture, which had seemed "humorous" to me, at
+first, grew steadily more and more dreary, till not a vestige of fun
+seemed left, and I grieved that I could not bring a coffin on the stage
+and turn the thing into a funeral. I was so panic-stricken, at last,
+that I went to three old friends, giants in stature, cordial by nature,
+and stormy-voiced, and said:
+
+"This thing is going to be a failure; the jokes in it are so dim that
+nobody will ever see them; I would like to have you sit in the parquette,
+and help me through."
+
+They said they would. Then I went to the wife of a popular citizen, and
+said that if she was willing to do me a very great kindness, I would be
+glad if she and her husband would sit prominently in the left-hand
+stage-box, where the whole house could see them. I explained that I
+should need help, and would turn toward her and smile, as a signal, when
+I had been delivered of an obscure joke--"and then," I added, "don't wait
+to investigate, but respond!"
+
+She promised. Down the street I met a man I never had seen before. He
+had been drinking, and was beaming with smiles and good nature. He said:
+
+"My name's Sawyer. You don't know me, but that don't matter. I haven't
+got a cent, but if you knew how bad I wanted to laugh, you'd give me a
+ticket. Come, now, what do you say?"
+
+"Is your laugh hung on a hair-trigger?--that is, is it critical, or can
+you get it off easy?"
+
+My drawling infirmity of speech so affected him that he laughed a
+specimen or two that struck me as being about the article I wanted, and I
+gave him a ticket, and appointed him to sit in the second circle, in the
+centre, and be responsible for that division of the house. I gave him
+minute instructions about how to detect indistinct jokes, and then went
+away, and left him chuckling placidly over the novelty of the idea.
+
+I ate nothing on the last of the three eventful days--I only suffered.
+I had advertised that on this third day the box-office would be opened
+for the sale of reserved seats. I crept down to the theater at four in
+the afternoon to see if any sales had been made. The ticket seller was
+gone, the box-office was locked up. I had to swallow suddenly, or my
+heart would have got out. "No sales," I said to myself; "I might have
+known it." I thought of suicide, pretended illness, flight. I thought
+of these things in earnest, for I was very miserable and scared. But of
+course I had to drive them away, and prepare to meet my fate. I could
+not wait for half-past seven--I wanted to face the horror, and end it
+--the feeling of many a man doomed to hang, no doubt. I went down back
+streets at six o'clock, and entered the theatre by the back door.
+I stumbled my way in the dark among the ranks of canvas scenery, and
+stood on the stage. The house was gloomy and silent, and its emptiness
+depressing. I went into the dark among the scenes again, and for an hour
+and a half gave myself up to the horrors, wholly unconscious of
+everything else. Then I heard a murmur; it rose higher and higher, and
+ended in a crash, mingled with cheers. It made my hair raise, it was so
+close to me, and so loud.
+
+There was a pause, and then another; presently came a third, and before I
+well knew what I was about, I was in the middle of the stage, staring at
+a sea of faces, bewildered by the fierce glare of the lights, and quaking
+in every limb with a terror that seemed like to take my life away. The
+house was full, aisles and all!
+
+The tumult in my heart and brain and legs continued a full minute before
+I could gain any command over myself. Then I recognized the charity and
+the friendliness in the faces before me, and little by little my fright
+melted away, and I began to talk Within three or four minutes I was
+comfortable, and even content. My three chief allies, with three
+auxiliaries, were on hand, in the parquette, all sitting together, all
+armed with bludgeons, and all ready to make an onslaught upon the
+feeblest joke that might show its head. And whenever a joke did fall,
+their bludgeons came down and their faces seemed to split from ear to
+ear.
+
+Sawyer, whose hearty countenance was seen looming redly in the centre of
+the second circle, took it up, and the house was carried handsomely.
+Inferior jokes never fared so royally before. Presently I delivered a
+bit of serious matter with impressive unction (it was my pet), and the
+audience listened with an absorbed hush that gratified me more than any
+applause; and as I dropped the last word of the clause, I happened to
+turn and catch Mrs.--'s intent and waiting eye; my conversation with her
+flashed upon me, and in spite of all I could do I smiled. She took it
+for the signal, and promptly delivered a mellow laugh that touched off
+the whole audience; and the explosion that followed was the triumph of
+the evening. I thought that that honest man Sawyer would choke himself;
+and as for the bludgeons, they performed like pile-drivers. But my poor
+little morsel of pathos was ruined. It was taken in good faith as an
+intentional joke, and the prize one of the entertainment, and I wisely
+let it go at that.
+
+All the papers were kind in the morning; my appetite returned; I had a
+abundance of money. All's well that ends well.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIX.
+
+I launched out as a lecturer, now, with great boldness. I had the field
+all to myself, for public lectures were almost an unknown commodity in
+the Pacific market. They are not so rare, now, I suppose. I took an old
+personal friend along to play agent for me, and for two or three weeks we
+roamed through Nevada and California and had a very cheerful time of it.
+Two days before I lectured in Virginia City, two stagecoaches were robbed
+within two miles of the town. The daring act was committed just at dawn,
+by six masked men, who sprang up alongside the coaches, presented
+revolvers at the heads of the drivers and passengers, and commanded a
+general dismount. Everybody climbed down, and the robbers took their
+watches and every cent they had. Then they took gunpowder and blew up
+the express specie boxes and got their contents. The leader of the
+robbers was a small, quick-spoken man, and the fame of his vigorous
+manner and his intrepidity was in everybody's mouth when we arrived.
+
+The night after instructing Virginia, I walked over the desolate "divide"
+and down to Gold Hill, and lectured there. The lecture done, I stopped
+to talk with a friend, and did not start back till eleven. The "divide"
+was high, unoccupied ground, between the towns, the scene of twenty
+midnight murders and a hundred robberies. As we climbed up and stepped
+out on this eminence, the Gold Hill lights dropped out of sight at our
+backs, and the night closed down gloomy and dismal. A sharp wind swept
+the place, too, and chilled our perspiring bodies through.
+
+"I tell you I don't like this place at night," said Mike the agent.
+
+"Well, don't speak so loud," I said. "You needn't remind anybody that we
+are here."
+
+Just then a dim figure approached me from the direction of Virginia--a
+man, evidently. He came straight at me, and I stepped aside to let him
+pass; he stepped in the way and confronted me again. Then I saw that he
+had a mask on and was holding something in my face--I heard a click-click
+and recognized a revolver in dim outline. I pushed the barrel aside with
+my hand and said:
+
+"Don't!"
+
+He ejaculated sharply:
+
+"Your watch! Your money!"
+
+I said:
+
+"You can have them with pleasure--but take the pistol away from my face,
+please. It makes me shiver."
+
+"No remarks! Hand out your money!"
+
+"Certainly--I--"
+
+"Put up your hands! Don't you go for a weapon! Put 'em up! Higher!"
+
+I held them above my head.
+
+A pause. Then:
+
+"Are you going to hand out your money or not?"
+
+I dropped my hands to my pockets and said:
+
+Certainly! I--"
+
+"Put up your hands! Do you want your head blown off? Higher!"
+
+I put them above my head again.
+
+Another pause.
+
+Are you going to hand out your money or not? Ah-ah--again? Put up your
+hands! By George, you want the head shot off you awful bad!"
+
+"Well, friend, I'm trying my best to please you. You tell me to give up
+my money, and when I reach for it you tell me to put up my hands. If you
+would only--. Oh, now--don't! All six of you at me! That other man
+will get away while.--Now please take some of those revolvers out of my
+face--do, if you please! Every time one of them clicks, my liver comes
+up into my throat! If you have a mother--any of you--or if any of you
+have ever had a mother--or a--grandmother--or a--"
+
+"Cheese it! Will you give up your money, or have we got to--. There
+--there--none of that! Put up your hands!"
+
+"Gentlemen--I know you are gentlemen by your--"
+
+"Silence! If you want to be facetious, young man, there are times and
+places more fitting. This is a serious business."
+
+"You prick the marrow of my opinion. The funerals I have attended in my
+time were comedies compared to it. Now I think--"
+
+"Curse your palaver! Your money!--your money!--your money! Hold!--put
+up your hands!"
+
+"Gentlemen, listen to reason. You see how I am situated--now don't put
+those pistols so close--I smell the powder.
+
+"You see how I am situated. If I had four hands--so that I could hold up
+two and--"
+
+"Throttle him! Gag him! Kill him!"
+
+"Gentlemen, don't! Nobody's watching the other fellow. Why don't some
+of you--. Ouch! Take it away, please!
+
+"Gentlemen, you see that I've got to hold up my hands; and so I can't take
+out my money--but if you'll be so kind as to take it out for me, I will
+do as much for you some--"
+
+"Search him Beauregard--and stop his jaw with a bullet, quick, if he wags
+it again. Help Beauregard, Stonewall."
+
+Then three of them, with the small, spry leader, adjourned to Mike and
+fell to searching him. I was so excited that my lawless fancy tortured
+me to ask my two men all manner of facetious questions about their rebel
+brother-generals of the South, but, considering the order they had
+received, it was but common prudence to keep still. When everything had
+been taken from me,--watch, money, and a multitude of trifles of small
+value,--I supposed I was free, and forthwith put my cold hands into my
+empty pockets and began an inoffensive jig to warm my feet and stir up
+some latent courage--but instantly all pistols were at my head, and the
+order came again:
+
+They stood Mike up alongside of me, with strict orders to keep his hands
+above his head, too, and then the chief highwayman said:
+
+"Beauregard, hide behind that boulder; Phil Sheridan, you hide behind
+that other one; Stonewall Jackson, put yourself behind that sage-bush
+there. Keep your pistols bearing on these fellows, and if they take down
+their hands within ten minutes, or move a single peg, let them have it!"
+
+Then three disappeared in the gloom toward the several ambushes, and the
+other three disappeared down the road toward Virginia.
+
+It was depressingly still, and miserably cold. Now this whole thing was
+a practical joke, and the robbers were personal friends of ours in
+disguise, and twenty more lay hidden within ten feet of us during the
+whole operation, listening. Mike knew all this, and was in the joke, but
+I suspected nothing of it. To me it was most uncomfortably genuine.
+When we had stood there in the middle of the road five minutes, like a
+couple of idiots, with our hands aloft, freezing to death by inches,
+Mike's interest in the joke began to wane. He said:
+
+"The time's up, now, aint it?"
+
+"No, you keep still. Do you want to take any chances with these bloody
+savages?"
+
+Presently Mike said:
+
+"Now the time's up, anyway. I'm freezing."
+
+"Well freeze. Better freeze than carry your brains home in a basket.
+Maybe the time is up, but how do we know?--got no watch to tell by.
+I mean to give them good measure. I calculate to stand here fifteen
+minutes or die. Don't you move."
+
+So, without knowing it, I was making one joker very sick of his contract.
+When we took our arms down at last, they were aching with cold and
+fatigue, and when we went sneaking off, the dread I was in that the time
+might not yet be up and that we would feel bullets in a moment, was not
+sufficient to draw all my attention from the misery that racked my
+stiffened body.
+
+The joke of these highwayman friends of ours was mainly a joke upon
+themselves; for they had waited for me on the cold hill-top two full
+hours before I came, and there was very little fun in that; they were so
+chilled that it took them a couple of weeks to get warm again. Moreover,
+I never had a thought that they would kill me to get money which it was
+so perfectly easy to get without any such folly, and so they did not
+really frighten me bad enough to make their enjoyment worth the trouble
+they had taken. I was only afraid that their weapons would go off
+accidentally. Their very numbers inspired me with confidence that no
+blood would be intentionally spilled. They were not smart; they ought to
+have sent only one highwayman, with a double-barrelled shot gun, if they
+desired to see the author of this volume climb a tree.
+
+However, I suppose that in the long run I got the largest share of the
+joke at last; and in a shape not foreseen by the highwaymen; for the
+chilly exposure on the "divide" while I was in a perspiration gave me a
+cold which developed itself into a troublesome disease and kept my hands
+idle some three months, besides costing me quite a sum in doctor's bills.
+Since then I play no practical jokes on people and generally lose my
+temper when one is played upon me.
+
+When I returned to San Francisco I projected a pleasure journey to Japan
+and thence westward around the world; but a desire to see home again
+changed my mind, and I took a berth in the steamship, bade good-bye to
+the friendliest land and livest, heartiest community on our continent,
+and came by the way of the Isthmus to New York--a trip that was not much
+of a pic-nic excursion, for the cholera broke out among us on the passage
+and we buried two or three bodies at sea every day. I found home a
+dreary place after my long absence; for half the children I had known
+were now wearing whiskers or waterfalls, and few of the grown people I
+had been acquainted with remained at their hearthstones prosperous and
+happy--some of them had wandered to other scenes, some were in jail, and
+the rest had been hanged. These changes touched me deeply, and I went
+away and joined the famous Quaker City European Excursion and carried my
+tears to foreign lands.
+
+Thus, after seven years of vicissitudes, ended a "pleasure trip" to the
+silver mines of Nevada which had originally been intended to occupy only
+three months. However, I usually miss my calculations further than that.
+
+
+MORAL.
+
+If the reader thinks he is done, now, and that this book has no moral to
+it, he is in error. The moral of it is this: If you are of any account,
+stay at home and make your way by faithful diligence; but if you are "no
+account," go away from home, and then you will have to work, whether you
+want to or not. Thus you become a blessing to your friends by ceasing to
+be a nuisance to them--if the people you go among suffer by the
+operation.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX. A.
+
+BRIEF SKETCH OF MORMON HISTORY.
+
+Mormonism is only about forty years old, but its career has been full of
+stir and adventure from the beginning, and is likely to remain so to the
+end. Its adherents have been hunted and hounded from one end of the
+country to the other, and the result is that for years they have hated
+all "Gentiles" indiscriminately and with all their might. Joseph Smith,
+the finder of the Book of Mormon and founder of the religion, was driven
+from State to State with his mysterious copperplates and the miraculous
+stones he read their inscriptions with. Finally he instituted his
+"church" in Ohio and Brigham Young joined it. The neighbors began to
+persecute, and apostasy commenced. Brigham held to the faith and worked
+hard. He arrested desertion. He did more--he added converts in the
+midst of the trouble. He rose in favor and importance with the brethren.
+He was made one of the Twelve Apostles of the Church. He shortly fought
+his way to a higher post and a more powerful--President of the Twelve.
+The neighbors rose up and drove the Mormons out of Ohio, and they settled
+in Missouri. Brigham went with them. The Missourians drove them out and
+they retreated to Nauvoo, Illinois. They prospered there, and built a
+temple which made some pretensions to architectural grace and achieved
+some celebrity in a section of country where a brick court-house with a
+tin dome and a cupola on it was contemplated with reverential awe.
+But the Mormons were badgered and harried again by their neighbors.
+All the proclamations Joseph Smith could issue denouncing polygamy and
+repudiating it as utterly anti-Mormon were of no avail; the people of the
+neighborhood, on both sides of the Mississippi, claimed that polygamy was
+practised by the Mormons, and not only polygamy but a little of
+everything that was bad. Brigham returned from a mission to England,
+where he had established a Mormon newspaper, and he brought back with him
+several hundred converts to his preaching. His influence among the
+brethren augmented with every move he made. Finally Nauvoo was invaded
+by the Missouri and Illinois Gentiles, and Joseph Smith killed. A Mormon
+named Rigdon assumed the Presidency of the Mormon church and government,
+in Smith's place, and even tried his hand at a prophecy or two. But a
+greater than he was at hand. Brigham seized the advantage of the hour
+and without other authority than superior brain and nerve and will,
+hurled Rigdon from his high place and occupied it himself. He did more.
+He launched an elaborate curse at Rigdon and his disciples; and he
+pronounced Rigdon's "prophecies" emanations from the devil, and ended by
+"handing the false prophet over to the buffetings of Satan for a thousand
+years"--probably the longest term ever inflicted in Illinois. The people
+recognized their master. They straightway elected Brigham Young
+President, by a prodigious majority, and have never faltered in their
+devotion to him from that day to this. Brigham had forecast--a quality
+which no other prominent Mormon has probably ever possessed.
+He recognized that it was better to move to the wilderness than be moved.
+By his command the people gathered together their meagre effects, turned
+their backs upon their homes, and their faces toward the wilderness, and
+on a bitter night in February filed in sorrowful procession across the
+frozen Mississippi, lighted on their way by the glare from their burning
+temple, whose sacred furniture their own hands had fired! They camped,
+several days afterward, on the western verge of Iowa, and poverty, want,
+hunger, cold, sickness, grief and persecution did their work, and many
+succumbed and died--martyrs, fair and true, whatever else they might have
+been. Two years the remnant remained there, while Brigham and a small
+party crossed the country and founded Great Salt Lake City, purposely
+choosing a land which was outside the ownership and jurisdiction of the
+hated American nation. Note that. This was in 1847. Brigham moved his
+people there and got them settled just in time to see disaster fall
+again. For the war closed and Mexico ceded Brigham's refuge to the
+enemy--the United States! In 1849 the Mormons organized a "free and
+independent" government and erected the "State of Deseret," with Brigham
+Young as its head. But the very next year Congress deliberately snubbed
+it and created the "Territory of Utah" out of the same accumulation of
+mountains, sage-brush, alkali and general desolation,--but made Brigham
+Governor of it. Then for years the enormous migration across the plains
+to California poured through the land of the Mormons and yet the church
+remained staunch and true to its lord and master. Neither hunger,
+thirst, poverty, grief, hatred, contempt, nor persecution could drive the
+Mormons from their faith or their allegiance; and even the thirst for
+gold, which gleaned the flower of the youth and strength of many nations
+was not able to entice them! That was the final test. An experiment
+that could survive that was an experiment with some substance to it
+somewhere.
+
+Great Salt Lake City throve finely, and so did Utah. One of the last
+things which Brigham Young had done before leaving Iowa, was to appear in
+the pulpit dressed to personate the worshipped and lamented prophet
+Smith, and confer the prophetic succession, with all its dignities,
+emoluments and authorities, upon "President Brigham Young!" The people
+accepted the pious fraud with the maddest enthusiasm, and Brigham's power
+was sealed and secured for all time. Within five years afterward he
+openly added polygamy to the tenets of the church by authority of a
+"revelation" which he pretended had been received nine years before by
+Joseph Smith, albeit Joseph is amply on record as denouncing polygamy to
+the day of his death.
+
+Now was Brigham become a second Andrew Johnson in the small beginning and
+steady progress of his official grandeur. He had served successively as
+a disciple in the ranks; home missionary; foreign missionary; editor and
+publisher; Apostle; President of the Board of Apostles; President of all
+Mormondom, civil and ecclesiastical; successor to the great Joseph by the
+will of heaven; "prophet," "seer," "revelator." There was but one
+dignity higher which he could aspire to, and he reached out modestly and
+took that--he proclaimed himself a God!
+
+He claims that he is to have a heaven of his own hereafter, and that he
+will be its God, and his wives and children its goddesses, princes and
+princesses. Into it all faithful Mormons will be admitted, with their
+families, and will take rank and consequence according to the number of
+their wives and children. If a disciple dies before he has had time to
+accumulate enough wives and children to enable him to be respectable in
+the next world any friend can marry a few wives and raise a few children
+for him after he is dead, and they are duly credited to his account and
+his heavenly status advanced accordingly.
+
+Let it be borne in mind that the majority of the Mormons have always been
+ignorant, simple, of an inferior order of intellect, unacquainted with
+the world and its ways; and let it be borne in mind that the wives of
+these Mormons are necessarily after the same pattern and their children
+likely to be fit representatives of such a conjunction; and then let it
+be remembered that for forty years these creatures have been driven,
+driven, driven, relentlessly! and mobbed, beaten, and shot down; cursed,
+despised, expatriated; banished to a remote desert, whither they
+journeyed gaunt with famine and disease, disturbing the ancient solitudes
+with their lamentations and marking the long way with graves of their
+dead--and all because they were simply trying to live and worship God in
+the way which they believed with all their hearts and souls to be the
+true one. Let all these things be borne in mind, and then it will not be
+hard to account for the deathless hatred which the Mormons bear our
+people and our government.
+
+That hatred has "fed fat its ancient grudge" ever since Mormon Utah
+developed into a self-supporting realm and the church waxed rich and
+strong. Brigham as Territorial Governor made it plain that Mormondom was
+for the Mormons. The United States tried to rectify all that by
+appointing territorial officers from New England and other anti-Mormon
+localities, but Brigham prepared to make their entrance into his
+dominions difficult. Three thousand United States troops had to go
+across the plains and put these gentlemen in office. And after they were
+in office they were as helpless as so many stone images. They made laws
+which nobody minded and which could not be executed. The federal judges
+opened court in a land filled with crime and violence and sat as holiday
+spectacles for insolent crowds to gape at--for there was nothing to try,
+nothing to do nothing on the dockets! And if a Gentile brought a suit,
+the Mormon jury would do just as it pleased about bringing in a verdict,
+and when the judgment of the court was rendered no Mormon cared for it
+and no officer could execute it. Our Presidents shipped one cargo of
+officials after another to Utah, but the result was always the same--they
+sat in a blight for awhile they fairly feasted on scowls and insults day
+by day, they saw every attempt to do their official duties find its
+reward in darker and darker looks, and in secret threats and warnings of
+a more and more dismal nature--and at last they either succumbed and
+became despised tools and toys of the Mormons, or got scared and
+discomforted beyond all endurance and left the Territory. If a brave
+officer kept on courageously till his pluck was proven, some pliant
+Buchanan or Pierce would remove him and appoint a stick in his place.
+In 1857 General Harney came very near being appointed Governor of Utah.
+And so it came very near being Harney governor and Cradlebaugh judge!
+--two men who never had any idea of fear further than the sort of murky
+comprehension of it which they were enabled to gather from the
+dictionary. Simply (if for nothing else) for the variety they would have
+made in a rather monotonous history of Federal servility and
+helplessness, it is a pity they were not fated to hold office together in
+Utah.
+
+Up to the date of our visit to Utah, such had been the Territorial
+record. The Territorial government established there had been a hopeless
+failure, and Brigham Young was the only real power in the land. He was
+an absolute monarch--a monarch who defied our President--a monarch who
+laughed at our armies when they camped about his capital--a monarch who
+received without emotion the news that the august Congress of the United
+States had enacted a solemn law against polygamy, and then went forth
+calmly and married twenty-five or thirty more wives.
+
+
+
+
+B.
+THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS MASSACRE.
+
+The persecutions which the Mormons suffered so long--and which they
+consider they still suffer in not being allowed to govern themselves
+--they have endeavored and are still endeavoring to repay. The now almost
+forgotten "Mountain Meadows massacre" was their work. It was very famous
+in its day. The whole United States rang with its horrors. A few items
+will refresh the reader's memory. A great emigrant train from Missouri
+and Arkansas passed through Salt Lake City and a few disaffected Mormons
+joined it for the sake of the strong protection it afforded for their
+escape. In that matter lay sufficient cause for hot retaliation by the
+Mormon chiefs. Besides, these one hundred and forty-five or one hundred
+and fifty unsuspecting emigrants being in part from Arkansas, where a
+noted Mormon missionary had lately been killed, and in part from
+Missouri, a State remembered with execrations as a bitter persecutor of
+the saints when they were few and poor and friendless, here were
+substantial additional grounds for lack of love for these wayfarers.
+And finally, this train was rich, very rich in cattle, horses, mules and
+other property--and how could the Mormons consistently keep up their
+coveted resemblance to the Israelitish tribes and not seize the "spoil"
+of an enemy when the Lord had so manifestly "delivered it into their
+hand?"
+
+Wherefore, according to Mrs. C. V. Waite's entertaining book, "The Mormon
+Prophet," it transpired that--
+
+"A 'revelation' from Brigham Young, as Great Grand Archee or God, was
+dispatched to President J. C. Haight, Bishop Higbee and J. D. Lee
+(adopted son of Brigham), commanding them to raise all the forces they
+could muster and trust, follow those cursed Gentiles (so read the
+revelation), attack them disguised as Indians, and with the arrows of the
+Almighty make a clean sweep of them, and leave none to tell the tale; and
+if they needed any assistance they were commanded to hire the Indians as
+their allies, promising them a share of the booty. They were to be
+neither slothful nor negligent in their duty, and to be punctual in
+sending the teams back to him before winter set in, for this was the
+mandate of Almighty God."
+
+The command of the "revelation" was faithfully obeyed. A large party of
+Mormons, painted and tricked out as Indians, overtook the train of
+emigrant wagons some three hundred miles south of Salt Lake City, and
+made an attack. But the emigrants threw up earthworks, made fortresses
+of their wagons and defended themselves gallantly and successfully for
+five days! Your Missouri or Arkansas gentleman is not much afraid of the
+sort of scurvy apologies for "Indians" which the southern part of Utah
+affords. He would stand up and fight five hundred of them.
+
+At the end of the five days the Mormons tried military strategy. They
+retired to the upper end of the "Meadows," resumed civilized apparel,
+washed off their paint, and then, heavily armed, drove down in wagons to
+the beleaguered emigrants, bearing a flag of truce! When the emigrants
+saw white men coming they threw down their guns and welcomed them with
+cheer after cheer! And, all unconscious of the poetry of it, no doubt,
+they lifted a little child aloft, dressed in white, in answer to the flag
+of truce!
+
+The leaders of the timely white "deliverers" were President Haight and
+Bishop John D. Lee, of the Mormon Church. Mr. Cradlebaugh, who served a
+term as a Federal Judge in Utah and afterward was sent to Congress from
+Nevada, tells in a speech delivered in Congress how these leaders next
+proceeded:
+
+"They professed to be on good terms with the Indians, and represented
+them as being very mad. They also proposed to intercede and settle the
+matter with the Indians. After several hours parley they, having
+(apparently) visited the Indians, gave the ultimatum of the savages;
+which was, that the emigrants should march out of their camp, leaving
+everything behind them, even their guns. It was promised by the Mormon
+bishops that they would bring a force and guard the emigrants back to the
+settlements. The terms were agreed to, the emigrants being desirous of
+saving the lives of their families. The Mormons retired, and
+subsequently appeared with thirty or forty armed men. The emigrants were
+marched out, the women and children in front and the men behind, the
+Mormon guard being in the rear. When they had marched in this way about
+a mile, at a given signal the slaughter commenced. The men were almost
+all shot down at the first fire from the guard. Two only escaped, who
+fled to the desert, and were followed one hundred and fifty miles before
+they were overtaken and slaughtered. The women and children ran on, two
+or three hundred yards further, when they were overtaken and with the aid
+of the Indians they were slaughtered. Seventeen individuals only, of all
+the emigrant party, were spared, and they were little children, the
+eldest of them being only seven years old. Thus, on the 10th day of
+September, 1857, was consummated one of the most cruel, cowardly and
+bloody murders known in our history."
+
+The number of persons butchered by the Mormons on this occasion was one
+hundred and twenty.
+
+With unheard-of temerity Judge Cradlebaugh opened his court and proceeded
+to make Mormondom answer for the massacre. And what a spectacle it must
+have been to see this grim veteran, solitary and alone in his pride and
+his pluck, glowering down on his Mormon jury and Mormon auditory,
+deriding them by turns, and by turns "breathing threatenings and
+slaughter!"
+
+An editorial in the Territorial Enterprise of that day says of him and of
+the occasion:
+
+"He spoke and acted with the fearlessness and resolution of a Jackson;
+but the jury failed to indict, or even report on the charges, while
+threats of violence were heard in every quarter, and an attack on the
+U.S. troops intimated, if he persisted in his course.
+
+"Finding that nothing could be done with the juries, they were discharged
+with a scathing rebuke from the judge. And then, sitting as a committing
+magistrate, he commenced his task alone. He examined witnesses, made
+arrests in every quarter, and created a consternation in the camps of the
+saints greater than any they had ever witnessed before, since Mormondom
+was born. At last accounts terrified elders and bishops were decamping
+to save their necks; and developments of the most starling character were
+being made, implicating the highest Church dignitaries in the many
+murders and robberies committed upon the Gentiles during the past eight
+years."
+
+Had Harney been Governor, Cradlebaugh would have been supported in his
+work, and the absolute proofs adduced by him of Mormon guilt in this
+massacre and in a number of previous murders, would have conferred
+gratuitous coffins upon certain citizens, together with occasion to use
+them. But Cumming was the Federal Governor, and he, under a curious
+pretense of impartiality, sought to screen the Mormons from the demands
+of justice. On one occasion he even went so far as to publish his
+protest against the use of the U.S. troops in aid of Cradlebaugh's
+proceedings.
+
+Mrs. C. V. Waite closes her interesting detail of the great massacre with
+the following remark and accompanying summary of the testimony--and the
+summary is concise, accurate and reliable:
+
+"For the benefit of those who may still be disposed to doubt the guilt of
+Young and his Mormons in this transaction, the testimony is here collated
+and circumstances given which go not merely to implicate but to fasten
+conviction upon them by 'confirmations strong as proofs of Holy Writ:'
+
+"1. The evidence of Mormons themselves, engaged in the affair, as shown
+by the statements of Judge Cradlebaugh and Deputy U.S. Marshall Rodgers.
+
+"2. The failure of Brigham Young to embody any account of it in his
+Report as Superintendent of Indian Affairs. Also his failure to make any
+allusion to it whatever from the pulpit, until several years after the
+occurrence
+
+"3. The flight to the mountains of men high in authority in the Mormon
+Church and State, when this affair was brought to the ordeal of a
+judicial investigation.
+
+"4. The failure of the Deseret News, the Church organ, and the only
+paper then published in the Territory, to notice the massacre until
+several months afterward, and then only to deny that Mormons were engaged
+in it.
+
+"5. The testimony of the children saved from the massacre.
+
+"6. The children and the property of the emigrants found in possession
+of the Mormons, and that possession traced back to the very day after the
+massacre.
+
+"7. The statements of Indians in the neighborhood of the scene of the
+massacre: these statements are shown, not only by Cradlebaugh and
+Rodgers, but by a number of military officers, and by J. Forney, who was,
+in 1859, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. To all
+these were such statements freely and frequently made by the Indians.
+
+"8. The testimony of R. P. Campbell, Capt. 2d Dragoons, who was sent in
+the Spring of 1859 to Santa Clara, to protect travelers on the road to
+California and to inquire into Indian depredations."
+
+
+
+
+C.
+CONCERNING A FRIGHTFUL ASSASSINATION THAT WAS NEVER CONSUMMATED
+
+If ever there was a harmless man, it is Conrad Wiegand, of Gold Hill,
+Nevada. If ever there was a gentle spirit that thought itself unfired
+gunpowder and latent ruin, it is Conrad Wiegand. If ever there was an
+oyster that fancied itself a whale; or a jack-o'lantern, confined to a
+swamp, that fancied itself a planet with a billion-mile orbit; or a
+summer zephyr that deemed itself a hurricane, it is Conrad Wiegand.
+Therefore, what wonder is it that when he says a thing, he thinks the
+world listens; that when he does a thing the world stands still to look;
+and that when he suffers, there is a convulsion of nature? When I met
+Conrad, he was "Superintendent of the Gold Hill Assay Office"--and he was
+not only its Superintendent, but its entire force. And he was a street
+preacher, too, with a mongrel religion of his own invention, whereby he
+expected to regenerate the universe. This was years ago. Here latterly
+he has entered journalism; and his journalism is what it might be
+expected to be: colossal to ear, but pigmy to the eye. It is extravagant
+grandiloquence confined to a newspaper about the size of a double letter
+sheet. He doubtless edits, sets the type, and prints his paper, all
+alone; but he delights to speak of the concern as if it occupies a block
+and employs a thousand men.
+
+[Something less than two years ago, Conrad assailed several people
+mercilessly in his little "People's Tribune," and got himself into
+trouble. Straightway he airs the affair in the "Territorial Enterprise,"
+in a communication over his own signature, and I propose to reproduce it
+here, in all its native simplicity and more than human candor. Long as
+it is, it is well worth reading, for it is the richest specimen of
+journalistic literature the history of America can furnish, perhaps:]
+
+From the Territorial Enterprise, Jan. 20, 1870.
+
+SEEMING PLOT FOR ASSASSINATION MISCARRIED.
+
+TO THE EDITOR OF THE ENTERPRISE: Months ago, when Mr. Sutro incidentally
+exposed mining management on the Comstock, and among others roused me to
+protest against its continuance, in great kindness you warned me that any
+attempt by publications, by public meetings and by legislative action,
+aimed at the correction of chronic mining evils in Storey County, must
+entail upon me (a) business ruin, (b) the burden of all its costs, (c)
+personal violence, and if my purpose were persisted in, then (d)
+assassination, and after all nothing would be effected.
+
+YOUR PROPHECY FULFILLING.
+In large part at least your prophecies have been fulfilled, for (a)
+assaying, which was well attended to in the Gold Hill Assay Office (of
+which I am superintendent), in consequence of my publications, has been
+taken elsewhere, so the President of one of the companies assures me.
+With no reason assigned, other work has been taken away. With but one or
+two important exceptions, our assay business now consists simply of the
+gleanings of the vicinity. (b) Though my own personal donations to the
+People's Tribune Association have already exceeded $1,500, outside of our
+own numbers we have received (in money) less than $300 as contributions
+and subscriptions for the journal. (c) On Thursday last, on the main
+street in Gold Hill, near noon, with neither warning nor cause assigned,
+by a powerful blow I was felled to the ground, and while down I was
+kicked by a man who it would seem had been led to believe that I had
+spoken derogatorily of him. By whom he was so induced to believe I am as
+yet unable to say. On Saturday last I was again assailed and beaten by a
+man who first informed me why he did so, and who persisted in making his
+assault even after the erroneous impression under which he also was at
+first laboring had been clearly and repeatedly pointed out. This same
+man, after failing through intimidation to elicit from me the names of
+our editorial contributors, against giving which he knew me to be
+pledged, beat himself weary upon me with a raw hide, I not resisting, and
+then pantingly threatened me with permanent disfiguring mayhem, if ever
+again I should introduce his name into print, and who but a few minutes
+before his attack upon me assured me that the only reason I was
+"permitted" to reach home alive on Wednesday evening last (at which time
+the PEOPLE'S TRIBUNE was issued) was, that he deems me only half-witted,
+and be it remembered the very next morning I was knocked down and kicked
+by a man who seemed to be prepared for flight.
+
+[He sees doom impending:]
+
+WHEN WILL THE CIRCLE JOIN?
+How long before the whole of your prophecy will be fulfilled I cannot
+say, but under the shadow of so much fulfillment in so short a time, and
+with such threats from a man who is one of the most prominent exponents
+of the San Francisco mining-ring staring me and this whole community
+defiantly in the face and pointing to a completion of your augury, do you
+blame me for feeling that this communication is the last I shall ever
+write for the Press, especially when a sense alike of personal
+self-respect, of duty to this money-oppressed and fear-ridden community,
+and of American fealty to the spirit of true Liberty all command me, and
+each more loudly than love of life itself, to declare the name of that
+prominent man to be JOHN B. WINTERS, President of the Yellow Jacket
+Company, a political aspirant and a military General? The name of his
+partially duped accomplice and abettor in this last marvelous assault, is
+no other than PHILIP LYNCH, Editor and Proprietor of the Gold Hill News.
+
+Despite the insult and wrong heaped upon me by John B. Winters, on
+Saturday afternoon, only a glimpse of which I shall be able to afford
+your readers, so much do I deplore clinching (by publicity) a serious
+mistake of any one, man or woman, committed under natural and not
+self-wrought passion, in view of his great apparent excitement at the
+time and in view of the almost perfect privacy of the assault, I am far
+from sure that I should not have given him space for repentance before
+exposing him, were it not that he himself has so far exposed the matter
+as to make it the common talk of the town that he has horsewhipped me.
+That fact having been made public, all the facts in connection need to be
+also, or silence on my part would seem more than singular, and with many
+would be proof either that I was conscious of some unworthy aim in
+publishing the article, or else that my "non-combatant" principles are
+but a convenient cloak alike of physical and moral cowardice. I
+therefore shall try to present a graphic but truthful picture of this
+whole affair, but shall forbear all comments, presuming that the editors
+of our own journal, if others do not, will speak freely and fittingly
+upon this subject in our next number, whether I shall then be dead or
+living, for my death will not stop, though it may suspend, the
+publication of the PEOPLE'S TRIBUNE. [The "non-combatant" sticks to
+principle, but takes along a friend or two of a conveniently different
+stripe:]
+
+THE TRAP SET.
+On Saturday morning John B. Winters sent verbal word to the Gold Hill
+Assay Office that he desired to see me at the Yellow Jacket office.
+Though such a request struck me as decidedly cool in view of his own
+recent discourtesies to me there alike as a publisher and as a
+stockholder in the Yellow Jacket mine, and though it seemed to me more
+like a summons than the courteous request by one gentleman to another for
+a favor, hoping that some conference with Sharon looking to the
+betterment of mining matters in Nevada might arise from it, I felt
+strongly inclined to overlook what possibly was simply an oversight in
+courtesy. But as then it had only been two days since I had been bruised
+and beaten under a hasty and false apprehension of facts, my caution was
+somewhat aroused. Moreover I remembered sensitively his contemptuousness
+of manner to me at my last interview in his office. I therefore felt it
+needful, if I went at all, to go accompanied by a friend whom he would
+not dare to treat with incivility, and whose presence with me might
+secure exemption from insult. Accordingly I asked a neighbor to
+accompany me.
+
+THE TRAP ALMOST DETECTED.
+Although I was not then aware of this fact, it would seem that previous
+to my request this same neighbor had heard Dr. Zabriskie state publicly
+in a saloon, that Mr. Winters had told him he had decided either to kill
+or to horsewhip me, but had not finally decided on which. My neighbor,
+therefore, felt unwilling to go down with me until he had first called on
+Mr. Winters alone. He therefore paid him a visit. From that interview
+he assured me that he gathered the impression that he did not believe I
+would have any difficulty with Mr. Winters, and that he (Winters) would
+call on me at four o'clock in my own office.
+
+MY OWN PRECAUTIONS.
+As Sheriff Cummings was in Gold Hill that afternoon, and as I desired to
+converse with him about the previous assault, I invited him to my office,
+and he came. Although a half hour had passed beyond four o'clock, Mr.
+Winters had not called, and we both of us began preparing to go home.
+Just then, Philip Lynch, Publisher of the Gold Hill News, came in and
+said, blandly and cheerily, as if bringing good news:
+
+"Hello, John B. Winters wants to see you."
+
+I replied, "Indeed! Why he sent me word that he would call on me here
+this afternoon at four o'clock!"
+
+"O, well, it don't do to be too ceremonious just now, he's in my office,
+and that will do as well--come on in, Winters wants to consult with you
+alone. He's got something to say to you."
+
+Though slightly uneasy at this change of programme, yet believing that in
+an editor's house I ought to be safe, and anyhow that I would be within
+hail of the street, I hurriedly, and but partially whispered my dim
+apprehensions to Mr. Cummings, and asked him if he would not keep near
+enough to hear my voice in case I should call. He consented to do so
+while waiting for some other parties, and to come in if he heard my voice
+or thought I had need of protection.
+
+On reaching the editorial part of the News office, which viewed from the
+street is dark, I did not see Mr. Winters, and again my misgivings arose.
+Had I paused long enough to consider the case, I should have invited
+Sheriff Cummings in, but as Lynch went down stairs, he said: "This way,
+Wiegand--it's best to be private," or some such remark.
+
+[I do not desire to strain the reader's fancy, hurtfully, and yet it
+would be a favor to me if he would try to fancy this lamb in battle, or
+the duelling ground or at the head of a vigilance committee--M. T.:]
+
+I followed, and without Mr. Cummings, and without arms, which I never do
+or will carry, unless as a soldier in war, or unless I should yet come to
+feel I must fight a duel, or to join and aid in the ranks of a necessary
+Vigilance Committee. But by following I made a fatal mistake. Following
+was entering a trap, and whatever animal suffers itself to be caught
+should expect the common fate of a caged rat, as I fear events to come
+will prove.
+
+Traps commonly are not set for benevolence.
+[His body-guard is shut out:]
+
+THE TRAP INSIDE.
+I followed Lynch down stairs. At their foot a door to the left opened
+into a small room. From that room another door opened into yet another
+room, and once entered I found myself inveigled into what many will ever
+henceforth regard as a private subterranean Gold Hill den, admirably
+adapted in proper hands to the purposes of murder, raw or disguised, for
+from it, with both or even one door closed, when too late, I saw that I
+could not be heard by Sheriff Cummings, and from it, BY VIOLENCE AND BY
+FORCE, I was prevented from making a peaceable exit, when I thought I saw
+the studious object of this "consultation" was no other than to compass
+my killing, in the presence of Philip Lynch as a witness, as soon as by
+insult a proverbially excitable man should be exasperated to the point of
+assailing Mr. Winters, so that Mr. Lynch, by his conscience and by his
+well known tenderness of heart toward the rich and potent would be
+compelled to testify that he saw Gen. John B. Winters kill Conrad Wiegand
+in "self-defence." But I am going too fast.
+
+OUR HOST.
+Mr. Lynch was present during the most of the time (say a little short of
+an hour), but three times he left the room. His testimony, therefore,
+would be available only as to the bulk of what transpired. On entering
+this carpeted den I was invited to a seat near one corner of the room.
+Mr. Lynch took a seat near the window. J. B. Winters sat (at first) near
+the door, and began his remarks essentially as follows:
+
+"I have come here to exact of you a retraction, in black and white, of
+those damnably false charges which you have preferred against me in
+that---infamous lying sheet of yours, and you must declare yourself their
+author, that you published them knowing them to be false, and that your
+motives were malicious."
+
+"Hold, Mr. Winters. Your language is insulting and your demand an
+enormity. I trust I was not invited here either to be insulted or
+coerced. I supposed myself here by invitation of Mr. Lynch, at your
+request."
+
+"Nor did I come here to insult you. I have already told you that I am
+here for a very different purpose."
+
+"Yet your language has been offensive, and even now shows strong
+excitement. If insult is repeated I shall either leave the room or call
+in Sheriff Cummings, whom I just left standing and waiting for me outside
+the door."
+
+"No, you won't, sir. You may just as well understand it at once as not.
+Here you are my man, and I'll tell you why! Months ago you put your
+property out of your hands, boasting that you did so to escape losing it
+on prosecution for libel."
+
+"It is true that I did convert all my immovable property into personal
+property, such as I could trust safely to others, and chiefly to escape
+ruin through possible libel suits."
+
+"Very good, sir. Having placed yourself beyond the pale of the law, may
+God help your soul if you DON'T make precisely such a retraction as I
+have demanded. I've got you now, and by--before you can get out of this
+room you've got to both write and sign precisely the retraction I have
+demanded, and before you go, anyhow--you---low-lived--lying---, I'll
+teach you what personal responsibility is outside of the law; and, by--,
+Sheriff Cummings and all the friends you've got in the world besides,
+can't save you, you---, etc.! No, sir. I'm alone now, and I'm prepared
+to be shot down just here and now rather than be villified by you as I
+have been, and suffer you to escape me after publishing those charges,
+not only here where I am known and universally respected, but where I am
+not personally known and may be injured."
+
+I confess this speech, with its terrible and but too plainly implied
+threat of killing me if I did not sign the paper he demanded, terrified
+me, especially as I saw he was working himself up to the highest possible
+pitch of passion, and instinct told me that any reply other than one of
+seeming concession to his demands would only be fuel to a raging fire,
+so I replied:
+
+"Well, if I've got to sign--," and then I paused some time. Resuming,
+I said, "But, Mr. Winters, you are greatly excited. Besides, I see you
+are laboring under a total misapprehension. It is your duty not to
+inflame but to calm yourself. I am prepared to show you, if you will
+only point out the article that you allude to, that you regard as
+'charges' what no calm and logical mind has any right to regard as such.
+Show me the charges, and I will try, at all events; and if it becomes
+plain that no charges have been preferred, then plainly there can be
+nothing to retract, and no one could rightly urge you to demand a
+retraction. You should beware of making so serious a mistake, for
+however honest a man may be, every one is liable to misapprehend.
+Besides you assume that I am the author of some certain article which you
+have not pointed out. It is hasty to do so."
+
+He then pointed to some numbered paragraphs in a TRIBUNE article, headed
+"What's the Matter with Yellow Jacket?" saying "That's what I refer to."
+
+To gain time for general reflection and resolution, I took up the paper
+and looked it over for awhile, he remaining silent, and as I hoped,
+cooling. I then resumed saying, "As I supposed. I do not admit having
+written that article, nor have you any right to assume so important a
+point, and then base important action upon your assumption. You might
+deeply regret it afterwards. In my published Address to the People, I
+notified the world that no information as to the authorship of any
+article would be given without the consent of the writer. I therefore
+cannot honorably tell you who wrote that article, nor can you exact it."
+
+"If you are not the author, then I do demand to know who is?"
+
+"I must decline to say."
+
+"Then, by--, I brand you as its author, and shall treat you accordingly."
+
+"Passing that point, the most important misapprehension which I notice
+is, that you regard them as 'charges' at all, when their context, both at
+their beginning and end, show they are not. These words introduce them:
+'Such an investigation [just before indicated], we think MIGHT result in
+showing some of the following points.' Then follow eleven specifications,
+and the succeeding paragraph shows that the suggested investigation
+'might EXONERATE those who are generally believed guilty.' You see,
+therefore, the context proves they are not preferred as charges, and this
+you seem to have overlooked."
+
+While making those comments, Mr. Winters frequently interrupted me in
+such a way as to convince me that he was resolved not to consider
+candidly the thoughts contained in my words. He insisted upon it that
+they were charges, and "By--," he would make me take them back as
+charges, and he referred the question to Philip Lynch, to whom I then
+appealed as a literary man, as a logician, and as an editor, calling his
+attention especially to the introductory paragraph just before quoted.
+He replied, "if they are not charges, they certainly are insinuations,"
+whereupon Mr. Winters renewed his demands for retraction precisely such
+as he had before named, except that he would allow me to state who did
+write the article if I did not myself, and this time shaking his fist in
+my face with more cursings and epithets.
+
+When he threatened me with his clenched fist, instinctively I tried to
+rise from my chair, but Winters then forcibly thrust me down, as he did
+every other time (at least seven or eight), when under similar imminent
+danger of bruising by his fist (or for aught I could know worse than that
+after the first stunning blow), which he could easily and safely to
+himself have dealt me so long as he kept me down and stood over me.
+
+This fact it was, which more than anything else, convinced me that by
+plan and plot I was purposely made powerless in Mr. Winters' hands, and
+that he did not mean to allow me that advantage of being afoot, which he
+possessed. Moreover, I then became convinced, that Philip Lynch (and for
+what reason I wondered) would do absolutely nothing to protect me in his
+own house. I realized then the situation thoroughly. I had found it
+equally vain to protest or argue, and I would make no unmanly appeal for
+pity, still less apologize. Yet my life had been by the plainest
+possible implication threatened. I was a weak man. I was unarmed. I
+was helplessly down, and Winters was afoot and probably armed. Lynch was
+the only "witness." The statements demanded, if given and not explained,
+would utterly sink me in my own self-respect, in my family's eyes, and in
+the eyes of the community. On the other hand, should I give the author's
+name how could I ever expect that confidence of the People which I should
+no longer deserve, and how much dearer to me and to my family was my life
+than the life of the real author to his friends. Yet life seemed dear
+and each minute that remained seemed precious if not solemn. I sincerely
+trust that neither you nor any of your readers, and especially none with
+families, may ever be placed in such seeming direct proximity to death
+while obliged to decide the one question I was compelled to, viz.: What
+should I do--I, a man of family, and not as Mr. Winters is, "alone."
+[The reader is requested not to skip the following.--M. T.:]
+
+STRATEGY AND MESMERISM.
+To gain time for further reflection, and hoping that by a seeming
+acquiescence I might regain my personal liberty, at least till I could
+give an alarm, or take advantage of some momentary inadvertence of
+Winters, and then without a cowardly flight escape, I resolved to write a
+certain kind of retraction, but previously had inwardly decided:
+
+First.--That I would studiously avoid every action which might be
+construed into the drawing of a weapon, even by a self-infuriated man, no
+matter what amount of insult might be heaped upon me, for it seemed to me
+that this great excess of compound profanity, foulness and epithet must
+be more than a mere indulgence, and therefore must have some object.
+"Surely in vain the net is spread in the sight of any bird." Therefore,
+as before without thought, I thereafter by intent kept my hands away from
+my pockets, and generally in sight and spread upon my knees.
+
+Second.--I resolved to make no motion with my arms or hands which could
+possibly be construed into aggression.
+
+Third.--I resolved completely to govern my outward manner and suppress
+indignation. To do this, I must govern my spirit. To do that, by force
+of imagination I was obliged like actors on the boards to resolve myself
+into an unnatural mental state and see all things through the eyes of an
+assumed character.
+
+Fourth.--I resolved to try on Winters, silently, and unconsciously to
+himself a mesmeric power which I possess over certain kinds of people,
+and which at times I have found to work even in the dark over the lower
+animals.
+
+Does any one smile at these last counts? God save you from ever being
+obliged to beat in a game of chess, whose stake is your life, you having
+but four poor pawns and pieces and your adversary with his full force
+unshorn. But if you are, provided you have any strength with breadth of
+will, do not despair. Though mesmeric power may not save you, it may
+help you; try it at all events. In this instance I was conscious of
+power coming into me, and by a law of nature, I know Winters was
+correspondingly weakened. If I could have gained more time I am sure he
+would not even have struck me.
+
+It takes time both to form such resolutions and to recite them. That
+time, however, I gained while thinking of my retraction, which I first
+wrote in pencil, altering it from time to time till I got it to suit me,
+my aim being to make it look like a concession to demands, while in fact
+it should tersely speak the truth into Mr. Winters' mind. When it was
+finished, I copied it in ink, and if correctly copied from my first draft
+it should read as follows. In copying I do not think I made any material
+change.
+
+COPY.
+To Philip Lynch, Editor of the Gold Hill News: I learn that Gen. John B.
+Winters believes the following (pasted on) clipping from the PEOPLE'S
+TRIBUNE of January to contain distinct charges of mine against him
+personally, and that as such he desires me to retract them unqualifiedly.
+
+In compliance with his request, permit me to say that, although Mr.
+Winters and I see this matter differently, in view of his strong feelings
+in the premises, I hereby declare that I do not know those "charges" (if
+such they are) to be true, and I hope that a critical examination would
+altogether disprove them.
+ CONRAD WIEGAND.
+ Gold Hill, January 15, 1870.
+
+
+I then read what I had written and handed it to Mr. Lynch, whereupon Mr.
+Winters said:
+
+"That's not satisfactory, and it won't do;" and then addressing himself
+to Mr. Lynch, he further said: "How does it strike you?"
+
+"Well, I confess I don't see that it retracts anything."
+
+"Nor do I," said Winters; "in fact, I regard it as adding insult to
+injury. Mr. Wiegand you've got to do better than that. You are not the
+man who can pull wool over my eyes."
+
+"That, sir, is the only retraction I can write."
+
+"No it isn't, sir, and if you so much as say so again you do it at your
+peril, for I'll thrash you to within an inch of your life, and, by--,
+sir, I don't pledge myself to spare you even that inch either. I want
+you to understand I have asked you for a very different paper, and that
+paper you've got to sign."
+
+"Mr. Winters, I assure you that I do not wish to irritate you, but, at
+the same time, it is utterly impossible for me to write any other paper
+than that which I have written. If you are resolved to compel me to sign
+something, Philip Lynch's hand must write at your dictation, and if, when
+written, I can sign it I will do so, but such a document as you say you
+must have from me, I never can sign. I mean what I say."
+
+"Well, sir, what's to be done must be done quickly, for I've been here
+long enough already. I'll put the thing in another shape (and then
+pointing to the paper); don't you know those charges to be false?"
+
+"I do not."
+
+"Do you know them to be true?"
+
+"Of my own personal knowledge I do not."
+
+"Why then did you print them?"
+
+"Because rightly considered in their connection they are not charges, but
+pertinent and useful suggestions in answer to the queries of a
+correspondent who stated facts which are inexplicable."
+
+"Don't you know that I know they are false?"
+
+"If you do, the proper course is simply to deny them and court an
+investigation."
+
+"And do YOU claim the right to make ME come out and deny anything you may
+choose to write and print?"
+
+To that question I think I made no reply, and he then further said:
+
+"Come, now, we've talked about the matter long enough. I want your final
+answer--did you write that article or not?"
+
+"I cannot in honor tell you who wrote it."
+
+"Did you not see it before it was printed?"
+
+"Most certainly, sir."
+
+"And did you deem it a fit thing to publish?"
+
+"Most assuredly, sir, or I would never have consented to its appearance.
+Of its authorship I can say nothing whatever, but for its publication I
+assume full, sole and personal responsibility."
+
+"And do you then retract it or not?"
+
+"Mr. Winters, if my refusal to sign such a paper as you have demanded
+must entail upon me all that your language in this room fairly implies,
+then I ask a few minutes for prayer."
+
+"Prayer!---you, this is not your hour for prayer--your time to pray was
+when you were writing those--lying charges. Will you sign or not?"
+
+"You already have my answer."
+
+"What! do you still refuse?"
+
+"I do, sir."
+
+"Take that, then," and to my amazement and inexpressible relief he drew
+only a rawhide instead of what I expected--a bludgeon or pistol. With
+it, as he spoke, he struck at my left ear downwards, as if to tear it
+off, and afterwards on the side of the head. As he moved away to get a
+better chance for a more effective shot, for the first time I gained a
+chance under peril to rise, and I did so pitying him from the very bottom
+of my soul, to think that one so naturally capable of true dignity, power
+and nobility could, by the temptations of this State, and by unfortunate
+associations and aspirations, be so deeply debased as to find in such
+brutality anything which he could call satisfaction--but the great hope
+for us all is in progress and growth, and John B. Winters, I trust, will
+yet be able to comprehend my feelings.
+
+He continued to beat me with all his great force, until absolutely weary,
+exhausted and panting for breath. I still adhered to my purpose of
+non-aggressive defence, and made no other use of my arms than to defend
+my head and face from further disfigurement. The mere pain arising from
+the blows he inflicted upon my person was of course transient, and my
+clothing to some extent deadened its severity, as it now hides all
+remaining traces.
+
+When I supposed he was through, taking the butt end of his weapon and
+shaking it in my face, he warned me, if I correctly understood him, of
+more yet to come, and furthermore said, if ever I again dared introduce
+his name to print, in either my own or any other public journal, he would
+cut off my left ear (and I do not think he was jesting) and send me home
+to my family a visibly mutilated man, to be a standing warning to all
+low-lived puppies who seek to blackmail gentlemen and to injure their
+good names. And when he did so operate, he informed me that his
+implement would not be a whip but a knife.
+
+When he had said this, unaccompanied by Mr. Lynch, as I remember it, he
+left the room, for I sat down by Mr. Lynch, exclaiming: "The man is mad
+--he is utterly mad--this step is his ruin--it is a mistake--it would be
+ungenerous in me, despite of all the ill usage I have here received, to
+expose him, at least until he has had an opportunity to reflect upon the
+matter. I shall be in no haste."
+
+"Winters is very mad just now," replied Mr. Lynch, "but when he is
+himself he is one of the finest men I ever met. In fact, he told me the
+reason he did not meet you upstairs was to spare you the humiliation of a
+beating in the sight of others."
+
+I submit that that unguarded remark of Philip Lynch convicts him of
+having been privy in advance to Mr. Winters' intentions whatever they may
+have been, or at least to his meaning to make an assault upon me, but I
+leave to others to determine how much censure an editor deserves for
+inveigling a weak, non-combatant man, also a publisher, to a pen of his
+own to be horsewhipped, if no worse, for the simple printing of what is
+verbally in the mouth of nine out of ten men, and women too, upon the
+street.
+
+While writing this account two theories have occurred to me as possibly
+true respecting this most remarkable assault:
+First--The aim may have been simply to extort from me such admissions as
+in the hands of money and influence would have sent me to the
+Penitentiary for libel. This, however, seems unlikely, because any
+statements elicited by fear or force could not be evidence in law or
+could be so explained as to have no force. The statements wanted so
+badly must have been desired for some other purpose.
+Second--The other theory has so dark and wilfully murderous a look that I
+shrink from writing it, yet as in all probability my death at the
+earliest practicable moment has already been decreed, I feel I should do
+all I can before my hour arrives, at least to show others how to break up
+that aristocratic rule and combination which has robbed all Nevada of
+true freedom, if not of manhood itself. Although I do not prefer this
+hypothesis as a "charge," I feel that as an American citizen I still have
+a right both to think and to speak my thoughts even in the land of Sharon
+and Winters, and as much so respecting the theory of a brutal assault
+(especially when I have been its subject) as respecting any other
+apparent enormity. I give the matter simply as a suggestion which may
+explain to the proper authorities and to the people whom they should
+represent, a well ascertained but notwithstanding a darkly mysterious
+fact. The scheme of the assault may have been:
+
+First--To terrify me by making me conscious of my own helplessness after
+making actual though not legal threats against my life.
+
+Second--To imply that I could save my life only by writing or signing
+certain specific statements which if not subsequently explained would
+eternally have branded me as infamous and would have consigned my family
+to shame and want, and to the dreadful compassion and patronage of the
+rich.
+
+Third--To blow my brains out the moment I had signed, thereby preventing
+me from making any subsequent explanation such as could remove the
+infamy.
+
+Fourth--Philip Lynch to be compelled to testify that I was killed by John
+B. Winters in self-defence, for the conviction of Winters would bring
+him in as an accomplice. If that was the programme in John B. Winters'
+mind nothing saved my life but my persistent refusal to sign, when that
+refusal seemed clearly to me to be the choice of death.
+
+The remarkable assertion made to me by Mr. Winters, that pity only spared
+my life on Wednesday evening last, almost compels me to believe that at
+first he could not have intended me to leave that room alive; and why I
+was allowed to, unless through mesmeric or some other invisible
+influence, I cannot divine. The more I reflect upon this matter, the
+more probable as true does this horrible interpretation become.
+
+The narration of these things I might have spared both to Mr. Winters and
+to the public had he himself observed silence, but as he has both
+verbally spoken and suffered a thoroughly garbled statement of facts to
+appear in the Gold Hill News I feel it due to myself no less than to this
+community, and to the entire independent press of America and Great
+Britain, to give a true account of what even the Gold Hill News has
+pronounced a disgraceful affair, and which it deeply regrets because of
+some alleged telegraphic mistake in the account of it. [Who received the
+erroneous telegrams?]
+
+Though he may not deem it prudent to take my life just now, the
+publication of this article I feel sure must compel Gen. Winters (with
+his peculiar views about his right to exemption from criticism by me) to
+resolve on my violent death, though it may take years to compass it.
+Notwithstanding I bear him no ill will; and if W. C. Ralston and William
+Sharon, and other members of the San Francisco mining and milling Ring
+feel that he above all other men in this State and California is the most
+fitting man to supervise and control Yellow Jacket matters, until I am
+able to vote more than half their stock I presume he will be retained to
+grace his present post.
+
+Meantime, I cordially invite all who know of any sort of important
+villainy which only can be cured by exposure (and who would expose it if
+they felt sure they would not be betrayed under bullying threats), to
+communicate with the PEOPLE'S TRIBUNE; for until I am murdered, so long
+as I can raise the means to publish, I propose to continue my efforts at
+least to revive the liberties of the State, to curb oppression, and to
+benefit man's world and God's earth.
+
+ CONRAD WIEGAND.
+
+
+[It does seem a pity that the Sheriff was shut out, since the good sense
+of a general of militia and of a prominent editor failed to teach them
+that the merited castigation of this weak, half-witted child was a thing
+that ought to have been done in the street, where the poor thing could
+have a chance to run. When a journalist maligns a citizen, or attacks
+his good name on hearsay evidence, he deserves to be thrashed for it,
+even if he is a "non-combatant" weakling; but a generous adversary would
+at least allow such a lamb the use of his legs at such a time.--M. T.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Roughing It, Part 8.
+by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 8. ***
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