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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>Roughing It, Part 2</title>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+
+
+<style type="text/css">
+ <!--
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+
+<h2>ROUGHING IT, By Mark Twain, Part 2 </h2>
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Roughing It, Part 2., by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Roughing It, Part 2.
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2004 [EBook #8583]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 2. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<br>
+<hr>
+<br><br><br><br><br><br>
+
+
+<center><img alt="cover.jpg (90K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="1071" width="733"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="spine.jpg (54K)" src="images/spine.jpg" height="1071" width="307"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center>
+<h1>ROUGHING IT, Part 2</h1>
+<br><br>
+<h2>By Mark Twain</h2>
+</center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece1.jpg (168K)" src="images/frontispiece1.jpg" height="643" width="903"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<a name="frontispiece2"></a>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece2.jpg (184K)" src="images/frontispiece2.jpg" height="1020" width="600"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="titlepage.jpg (95K)" src="images/titlepage.jpg" height="1064" width="705"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="dedication.jpg (18K)" src="images/dedication.jpg" height="273" width="425"></center>
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>PREFATORY.</h2> </center>
+<br>
+<p>This book is merely a personal narrative, and not a
+pretentious history or a philosophical dissertation. It is a
+record of several years of variegated vagabondizing, and its
+object is rather to help the resting reader while away an idle
+hour than afflict him with metaphysics, or goad him with science.
+Still, there is information in the volume; information concerning
+an interesting episode in the history of the Far West, about
+which no books have been written by persons who were on the
+ground in person, and saw the happenings of the time with their
+own eyes. I allude to the rise, growth and culmination of the
+silver-mining fever in Nevada&mdash;a curious episode, in some
+respects; the only one, of its peculiar kind, that has occurred
+in the land; and the only one, indeed, that is likely to occur in
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, take it all around, there is quite a good deal of
+information in the book. I regret this very much; but really it
+could not be helped: information appears to stew out of me
+naturally, like the precious ottar of roses out of the otter.
+Sometimes it has seemed to me that I would give worlds if I could
+retain my facts; but it cannot be. The more I calk up the
+sources, and the tighter I get, the more I leak wisdom.
+Therefore, I can only claim indulgence at the hands of the
+reader, not justification.</p>
+
+<p>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>CONTENTS.</h2></center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+
+<p><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER XI</a>. Slade in Montana&mdash;"On a Spree"&mdash;In Court&mdash;Attack
+on a Judge&mdash;Arrest by the Vigilantes&mdash;Turn out of the
+Miners&mdash;Execution of Slade&mdash;Lamentations of His Wife&mdash;Was Slade a
+Coward?</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch12">CHAPTER XII.</a> A Mormon Emigrant Train&mdash;The Heart of the Rocky
+Mountains&mdash;Pure Saleratus&mdash;A Natural Ice-House&mdash;An Entire
+Inhabitant&mdash;In Sight of "Eternal Snow"&mdash;The South Pass&mdash;The
+Parting Streams&mdash;An Unreliable Letter Carrier&mdash;Meeting of Old
+Friends&mdash;A Spoiled Watermelon&mdash;Down the Mountain- -A Scene of
+Desolation&mdash;Lost in the Dark&mdash;Unnecessary Advice&mdash;U.S. Troops and
+Indians&mdash;Sublime Spectacle&mdash;Another Delusion Dispelled&mdash;Among the
+Angels</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch13">CHAPTER XIII.</a> Mormons and Gentiles&mdash;Exhilarating Drink, and
+its Effect on Bemis&mdash;Salt Lake City&mdash;A Great Contrast&mdash;A Mormon
+Vagrant&mdash;Talk with a Saint&mdash;A Visit to the "King"&mdash;A Happy
+Simile</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch14">CHAPTER XIV.</a> Mormon Contractors&mdash;How Mr. Street Astonished
+Them&mdash;The Case Before Brigham Young, and How he Disposed of
+it&mdash;Polygamy Viewed from a New Position</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch15">CHAPTER XV.</a> A Gentile Den&mdash;Polygamy Discussed&mdash;Favorite Wife
+and D. 4&mdash;Hennery for Retired Wives&mdash;Children Need Marking&mdash;Cost
+of a Gift to No. 6&mdash;A Penny- whistle Gift and its
+Effects&mdash;Fathering the Foundlings&mdash;It Resembled Him&mdash;The Family
+Bedstead</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch16">CHAPTER XVI.</a> The Mormon Bible&mdash;Proofs of its
+Divinity&mdash;Plagiarism of its Authors&mdash;Story of Nephi&mdash;Wonderful
+Battle&mdash;Kilkenny Cats Outdone</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch17">CHAPTER XVII.</a> Three Sides to all Questions&mdash;Everything "A
+Quarter"&mdash;Shriveled Up&mdash;Emigrants and White Shirts at a
+Discount&mdash;"Forty-Niners"&mdash;Above Par&mdash;Real Happiness</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a> Alkali Desert&mdash;Romance of Crossing
+Dispelled&mdash;Alkali Dust&mdash;Effect on the Mules&mdash;Universal
+Thanksgiving</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch19">CHAPTER XIX.</a> The Digger Indians Compared with the Bushmen of
+Africa&mdash;Food, Life and Characteristics&mdash;Cowardly Attack on a
+Stage Coach&mdash;A Brave Driver&mdash;The Noble Red Man</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch20">CHAPTER XX.</a> The Great American Desert&mdash;Forty Miles on
+Bones&mdash;Lakes Without Outlets&mdash;Greely's Remarkable Ride&mdash;Hank
+Monk, the Renowned Driver&mdash;Fatal Effects of "Corking" a
+Story&mdash;Bald-Headed Anecdote</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+
+<center><h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2></center>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+
+
+
+44. <a href="#092">SLADE IN COURT</a><br>
+45. <a href="#095">A WIFE'S LAMENTATIONS</a><br>
+46. <a href="#099">THE CONCENTRATED INHABITANT</a><br>
+47. <a href="#100">THE SOUTH PASS</a><br>
+48. <a href="#101">THE PARTED STREAMS</a><br>
+49. <a href="#102">IT SPOILED THE MELON</a><br>
+50. <a href="#103">THE CAYOTE AND THE RAVEN</a><br>
+51. <a href="#104">"DON'T COME HERE ...</a><br>
+52. <a href="#105">"THINK I'M A FOOL ...</a><br>
+53. <a href="#106">THE "DESTROYING ANGEL...</a><br>
+54. <a href="#109">EFFECTS OF "VALLEY TAN"</a><br>
+55. <a href="#110a">ONE CREST</a><br>
+56. <a href="#110b">THE OTHER</a><br>
+57. <a href="#111">THE VAGRANT</a><br>
+58. <a href="#112">PORTRAIT OF EBER KIMBALL</a><br>
+59. <a href="#113">PORTRAIT OR BRIGHAM YOUNG</a><br>
+60. <a href="#116">THE CONTRACTORS BEFORE THE KING</a><br>
+61. <a href="#117">I WAS TOUCHED</a><br>
+62. <a href="#118">THE ENDOWMENT</a><br>
+63. <a href="#120">FAVORITE WIFE AND D.4</a><br>
+64. <a href="#121">NEEDED MARKING</a><br>
+65. <a href="#124">A REMARKABLE RESEMBLANCE</a><br>
+66. <a href="#126">THE FAMILY BEDSTEAD</a><br>
+67. <a href="#131">THE MIRACULOUS COMPASS</a><br>
+68. <a href="#137">THREE SIDES TO A QUESTION</a><br>
+69. <a href="#138">RESULT OF HFGH FREIGHTS</a><br>
+70. <a href="#139">A SHRIVELED QUARTER</a><br>
+71. <a href="#140">AN OBJECT OF PITY</a><br>
+72. <a href="#141">TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+73. <a href="#145">TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+74. <a href="#147">GOSHOTT INDIANS HANGING AROUND</a><br>
+75. <a href="#148">THE DRIVE FOR LIFE</a><br>
+76. <a href="#151">GREELEY'S RIDE</a><br>
+77. <a href="#154">BOTTLING AN ANECDOTE</a><br>
+78. <a href="#156">TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch11"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>And sure enough, two or three years afterward, we did hear him
+again. News came to the Pacific coast that the Vigilance
+Committee in Montana (whither Slade had removed from Rocky Ridge)
+had hanged him. I find an account of the affair in the thrilling
+little book I quoted a paragraph from in the last chapter&mdash;"The
+Vigilantes of Montana; being a Reliable Account of the Capture,
+Trial and Execution of Henry Plummer's Notorious Road Agent Band:
+By Prof. Thos. J. Dimsdale, Virginia City, M.T." Mr. Dimsdale's
+chapter is well worth reading, as a specimen of how the people of
+the frontier deal with criminals when the courts of law prove
+inefficient. Mr. Dimsdale makes two remarks about Slade, both of
+which are accurately descriptive, and one of which is exceedingly
+picturesque: "Those who saw him in his natural state only, would
+pronounce him to be a kind husband, a most hospitable host and a
+courteous gentleman; on the contrary, those who met him when
+maddened with liquor and surrounded by a gang of armed roughs,
+would pronounce him a fiend incarnate." And this: "From Fort
+Kearney, west, he was feared a great deal more than the
+almighty." For compactness, simplicity and vigor of expression, I
+will "back" that sentence against anything in literature. Mr.
+Dimsdale's narrative is as follows. In all places where italics
+occur, they are mine:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>After the execution of the five men on the 14th of January,
+the Vigilantes considered that their work was nearly ended. They
+had freed the country of highwaymen and murderers to a great
+extent, and they determined that in the absence of the regular
+civil authority they would establish a People's Court where all
+offenders should be tried by judge and jury. This was the nearest
+approach to social order that the circumstances permitted, and,
+though strict legal authority was wanting, yet the people were
+firmly determined to maintain its efficiency, and to enforce its
+decrees. It may here be mentioned that the overt act which was
+the last round on the fatal ladder leading to the scaffold on
+which Slade perished, was the tearing in pieces and stamping upon
+a writ of this court, followed by his arrest of the Judge Alex.
+Davis, by authority of a presented Derringer, and with his own
+hands.</p>
+
+<p>J. A. Slade was himself, we have been informed, a Vigilante;
+he openly boasted of it, and said he knew all that they knew. He
+was never accused, or even suspected, of either murder or
+robbery, committed in this Territory (the latter crime was never
+laid to his charge, in any place); but that he had killed several
+men in other localities was notorious, and his bad reputation in
+this respect was a most powerful argument in determining his
+fate, when he was finally arrested for the offence above
+mentioned. On returning from Milk River he became more and more
+addicted to drinking, until at last it was a common feat for him
+and his friends to "take the town." He and a couple of his
+dependents might often be seen on one horse, galloping through
+the streets, shouting and yelling, firing revolvers, etc. On many
+occasions he would ride his horse into stores, break up bars,
+toss the scales out of doors and use most insulting language to
+parties present. Just previous to the day of his arrest, he had
+given a fearful beating to one of his followers; but such was his
+influence over them that the man wept bitterly at the gallows,
+and begged for his life with all his power. It had become quite
+common, when Slade was on a spree, for the shop-keepers and
+citizens to close the stores and put out all the lights; being
+fearful of some outrage at his hands. For his wanton destruction
+of goods and furniture, he was always ready to pay, when sober,
+if he had money; but there were not a few who regarded payment as
+small satisfaction for the outrage, and these men were his
+personal enemies.</p>
+
+<p>From time to time Slade received warnings from men that he
+well knew would not deceive him, of the certain end of his
+conduct. There was not a moment, for weeks previous to his
+arrest, in which the public did not expect to hear of some bloody
+outrage. The dread of his very name, and the presence of the
+armed band of hangers-on who followed him alone prevented a
+resistance which must certainly have ended in the instant murder
+or mutilation of the opposing party.</p>
+
+<p>Slade was frequently arrested by order of the court whose
+organization we have described, and had treated it with respect
+by paying one or two fines and promising to pay the rest when he
+had money; but in the transaction that occurred at this crisis,
+he forgot even this caution, and goaded by passion and the hatred
+of restraint, he sprang into the embrace of death.</p>
+
+<p>Slade had been drunk and "cutting up" all night. He and his
+companions had made the town a perfect hell. In the morning, J.
+M. Fox, the sheriff, met him, arrested him, took him into court
+and commenced reading a warrant that he had for his arrest, by
+way of arraignment. He became uncontrollably furious, and seizing
+the writ, he tore it up, threw it on the ground and stamped upon
+it.</p>
+
+<a name="092"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="092.jpg (121K)" src="images/092.jpg" height="612" width="618">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The clicking of the locks of his companions' revolvers was
+instantly heard, and a crisis was expected. The sheriff did not
+attempt his retention; but being at least as prudent as he was
+valiant, he succumbed, leaving Slade the master of the situation
+and the conqueror and ruler of the courts, law and law-makers.
+This was a declaration of war, and was so accepted. The Vigilance
+Committee now felt that the question of social order and the
+preponderance of the law-abiding citizens had then and there to
+be decided. They knew the character of Slade, and they were well
+aware that they must submit to his rule without murmur, or else
+that he must be dealt with in such fashion as would prevent his
+being able to wreak his vengeance on the committee, who could
+never have hoped to live in the Territory secure from outrage or
+death, and who could never leave it without encountering his
+friend, whom his victory would have emboldened and stimulated to
+a pitch that would have rendered them reckless of consequences.
+The day previous he had ridden into Dorris's store, and on being
+requested to leave, he drew his revolver and threatened to kill
+the gentleman who spoke to him. Another saloon he had led his
+horse into, and buying a bottle of wine, he tried to make the
+animal drink it. This was not considered an uncommon performance,
+as he had often entered saloons and commenced firing at the
+lamps, causing a wild stampede.</p>
+
+<p>A leading member of the committee met Slade, and informed him
+in the quiet, earnest manner of one who feels the importance of
+what he is saying: "Slade, get your horse at once, and go home,
+or there will be&mdash;&mdash;to pay." Slade started and took a long
+look, with his dark and piercing eyes, at the gentleman. "What do
+you mean?" said he. "You have no right to ask me what I mean,"
+was the quiet reply, "get your horse at once, and remember what I
+tell you." After a short pause he promised to do so, and actually
+got into the saddle; but, being still intoxicated, he began
+calling aloud to one after another of his friends, and at last
+seemed to have forgotten the warning he had received and became
+again uproarious, shouting the name of a well-known courtezan in
+company with those of two men whom he considered heads of the
+committee, as a sort of challenge; perhaps, however, as a simple
+act of bravado. It seems probable that the intimation of personal
+danger he had received had not been forgotten entirely; though
+fatally for him, he took a foolish way of showing his remembrance
+of it. He sought out Alexander Davis, the Judge of the Court, and
+drawing a cocked Derringer, he presented it at his head, and told
+him that he should hold him as a hostage for his own safety. As
+the judge stood perfectly quiet, and offered no resistance to his
+captor, no further outrage followed on this score. Previous to
+this, on account of the critical state of affairs, the committee
+had met, and at last resolved to arrest him. His execution had
+not been agreed upon, and, at that time, would have been
+negatived, most assuredly. A messenger rode down to Nevada to
+inform the leading men of what was on hand, as it was desirable
+to show that there was a feeling of unanimity on the subject, all
+along the gulch.</p>
+
+<p>The miners turned out almost en masse, leaving their work and
+forming in solid column about six hundred strong, armed to the
+teeth, they marched up to Virginia. The leader of the body well
+knew the temper of his men on the subject. He spurred on ahead of
+them, and hastily calling a meeting of the executive, he told
+them plainly that the miners meant "business," and that, if they
+came up, they would not stand in the street to be shot down by
+Slade's friends; but that they would take him and hang him. The
+meeting was small, as the Virginia men were loath to act at all.
+This momentous announcement of the feeling of the Lower Town was
+made to a cluster of men, who were deliberation behind a wagon,
+at the rear of a store on Main street.</p>
+
+<p>The committee were most unwilling to proceed to extremities.
+All the duty they had ever performed seemed as nothing to the
+task before them; but they had to decide, and that quickly. It
+was finally agreed that if the whole body of the miners were of
+the opinion that he should be hanged, that the committee left it
+in their hands to deal with him. Off, at hot speed, rode the
+leader of the Nevada men to join his command.</p>
+
+<p>Slade had found out what was intended, and the news sobered
+him instantly. He went into P. S. Pfouts' store, where Davis was,
+and apologized for his conduct, saying that he would take it all
+back.</p>
+
+<p>The head of the column now wheeled into Wallace street and
+marched up at quick time. Halting in front of the store, the
+executive officer of the committee stepped forward and arrested
+Slade, who was at once informed of his doom, and inquiry was made
+as to whether he had any business to settle. Several parties
+spoke to him on the subject; but to all such inquiries he turned
+a deaf ear, being entirely absorbed in the terrifying reflections
+on his own awful position. He never ceased his entreaties for
+life, and to see his dear wife. The unfortunate lady referred to,
+between whom and Slade there existed a warm affection, was at
+this time living at their ranch on the Madison. She was possessed
+of considerable personal attractions; tall, well-formed, of
+graceful carriage, pleasing manners, and was, withal, an
+accomplished horsewoman.</p>
+
+<p>A messenger from Slade rode at full speed to inform her of her
+husband's arrest. In an instant she was in the saddle, and with
+all the energy that love and despair could lend to an ardent
+temperament and a strong physique, she urged her fleet charger
+over the twelve miles of rough and rocky ground that intervened
+between her and the object of her passionate devotion.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile a party of volunteers had made the necessary
+preparations for the execution, in the valley traversed by the
+branch. Beneath the site of Pfouts and Russell's stone building
+there was a corral, the gate-posts of which were strong and high.
+Across the top was laid a beam, to which the rope was fastened,
+and a dry-goods box served for the platform. To this place Slade
+was marched, surrounded by a guard, composing the best armed and
+most numerous force that has ever appeared in Montana
+Territory.</p>
+
+<p>The doomed man had so exhausted himself by tears, prayers and
+lamentations, that he had scarcely strength left to stand under
+the fatal beam. He repeatedly exclaimed, "My God! my God! must I
+die? Oh, my dear wife!"</p>
+
+<p>On the return of the fatigue party, they encountered some
+friends of Slade, staunch and reliable citizens and members of
+the committee, but who were personally attached to the condemned.
+On hearing of his sentence, one of them, a stout-hearted man,
+pulled out his handkerchief and walked away, weeping like a
+child. Slade still begged to see his wife, most piteously, and it
+seemed hard to deny his request; but the bloody consequences that
+were sure to follow the inevitable attempt at a rescue, that her
+presence and entreaties would have certainly incited, forbade the
+granting of his request. Several gentlemen were sent for to see
+him, in his last moments, one of whom (Judge Davis) made a short
+address to the people; but in such low tones as to be inaudible,
+save to a few in his immediate vicinity. One of his friends,
+after exhausting his powers of entreaty, threw off his coat and
+declared that the prisoner could not be hanged until he himself
+was killed. A hundred guns were instantly leveled at him;
+whereupon he turned and fled; but, being brought back, he was
+compelled to resume his coat, and to give a promise of future
+peaceable demeanor.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely a leading man in Virginia could be found, though
+numbers of the citizens joined the ranks of the guard when the
+arrest was made. All lamented the stern necessity which dictated
+the execution.</p>
+
+<p>Everything being ready, the command was given, "Men, do your
+duty," and the box being instantly slipped from beneath his feet,
+he died almost instantaneously.</p>
+
+<p>The body was cut down and carried to the Virginia Hotel,
+where, in a darkened room, it was scarcely laid out, when the
+unfortunate and bereaved companion of the deceased arrived, at
+headlong speed, to find that all was over, and that she was a
+widow. Her grief and heart-piercing cries were terrible evidences
+of the depth of her attachment for her lost husband, and a
+considerable period elapsed before she could regain the command
+of her excited feelings.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<a name="095"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="095.jpg (48K)" src="images/095.jpg" height="336" width="471">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>There is something about the desperado-nature that is wholly
+unaccountable&mdash;at least it looks unaccountable. It is this. The
+true desperado is gifted with splendid courage, and yet he will
+take the most infamous advantage of his enemy; armed and free, he
+will stand up before a host and fight until he is shot all to
+pieces, and yet when he is under the gallows and helpless he will
+cry and plead like a child. Words are cheap, and it is easy to
+call Slade a coward (all executed men who do not "die game" are
+promptly called cowards by unreflecting people), and when we read
+of Slade that he "had so exhausted himself by tears, prayers and
+lamentations, that he had scarcely strength left to stand under
+the fatal beam," the disgraceful word suggests itself in a
+moment&mdash;yet in frequently defying and inviting the vengeance of
+banded Rocky Mountain cut-throats by shooting down their comrades
+and leaders, and never offering to hide or fly, Slade showed that
+he was a man of peerless bravery. No coward would dare that. Many
+a notorious coward, many a chicken-livered poltroon, coarse,
+brutal, degraded, has made his dying speech without a quaver in
+his voice and been swung into eternity with what looked liked the
+calmest fortitude, and so we are justified in believing, from the
+low intellect of such a creature, that it was not moral courage
+that enabled him to do it. Then, if moral courage is not the
+requisite quality, what could it have been that this
+stout-hearted Slade lacked?&mdash;this bloody, desperate,
+kindly-mannered, urbane gentleman, who never hesitated to warn
+his most ruffianly enemies that he would kill them whenever or
+wherever he came across them next! I think it is a conundrum
+worth investigating.</p>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch12"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Just beyond the breakfast-station we overtook a Mormon
+emigrant train of thirty-three wagons; and tramping wearily along
+and driving their herd of loose cows, were dozens of coarse-clad
+and sad-looking men, women and children, who had walked as they
+were walking now, day after day for eight lingering weeks, and in
+that time had compassed the distance our stage had come in eight
+days and three hours&mdash;seven hundred and ninety- eight miles! They
+were dusty and uncombed, hatless, bonnetless and ragged, and they
+did look so tired!</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, we bathed in Horse Creek, a (previously)
+limpid, sparkling stream&mdash;an appreciated luxury, for it was very
+seldom that our furious coach halted long enough for an
+indulgence of that kind. We changed horses ten or twelve times in
+every twenty-four hours&mdash;changed mules, rather&mdash;six mules&mdash;and
+did it nearly every time in four minutes. It was lively work. As
+our coach rattled up to each station six harnessed mules stepped
+gayly from the stable; and in the twinkling of an eye, almost,
+the old team was out, and the new one in and we off and away
+again.</p>
+
+<p>During the afternoon we passed Sweetwater Creek, Independence
+Rock, Devil's Gate and the Devil's Gap. The latter were wild
+specimens of rugged scenery, and full of interest&mdash;we were in the
+heart of the Rocky Mountains, now. And we also passed by "Alkali"
+or "Soda Lake," and we woke up to the fact that our journey had
+stretched a long way across the world when the driver said that
+the Mormons often came there from Great Salt Lake City to haul
+away saleratus. He said that a few days gone by they had shoveled
+up enough pure saleratus from the ground (it was a dry lake) to
+load two wagons, and that when they got these two wagons-loads of
+a drug that cost them nothing, to Salt Lake, they could sell it
+for twenty-five cents a pound.</p>
+
+<p>In the night we sailed by a most notable curiosity, and one we
+had been hearing a good deal about for a day or two, and were
+suffering to see. This was what might be called a natural
+ice-house. It was August, now, and sweltering weather in the
+daytime, yet at one of the stations the men could scape the soil
+on the hill-side under the lee of a range of boulders, and at a
+depth of six inches cut out pure blocks of ice&mdash;hard, compactly
+frozen, and clear as crystal!</p>
+
+<p>Toward dawn we got under way again, and presently as we sat
+with raised curtains enjoying our early-morning smoke and
+contemplating the first splendor of the rising sun as it swept
+down the long array of mountain peaks, flushing and gilding crag
+after crag and summit after summit, as if the invisible Creator
+reviewed his gray veterans and they saluted with a smile, we hove
+in sight of South Pass City. The hotel-keeper, the postmaster,
+the blacksmith, the mayor, the constable, the city marshal and
+the principal citizen and property holder, all came out and
+greeted us cheerily, and we gave him good day. He gave us a
+little Indian news, and a little Rocky Mountain news, and we gave
+him some Plains information in return. He then retired to his
+lonely grandeur and we climbed on up among the bristling peaks
+and the ragged clouds. South Pass City consisted of four log
+cabins, one if which was unfinished, and the gentleman with all
+those offices and titles was the chiefest of the ten citizens of
+the place. Think of hotel-keeper, postmaster, blacksmith, mayor,
+constable, city marshal and principal citizen all condensed into
+one person and crammed into one skin. Bemis said he was "a
+perfect Allen's revolver of dignities." And he said that if he
+were to die as postmaster, or as blacksmith, or as postmaster and
+blacksmith both, the people might stand it; but if he were to die
+all over, it would be a frightful loss to the community.</p>
+
+<a name="099"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="099.jpg (57K)" src="images/099.jpg" height="459" width="418">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Two miles beyond South Pass City we saw for the first time
+that mysterious marvel which all Western untraveled boys have
+heard of and fully believe in, but are sure to be astounded at
+when they see it with their own eyes, nevertheless&mdash;banks of snow
+in dead summer time. We were now far up toward the sky, and knew
+all the time that we must presently encounter lofty summits clad
+in the "eternal snow" which was so common place a matter of
+mention in books, and yet when I did see it glittering in the sun
+on stately domes in the distance and knew the month was August
+and that my coat was hanging up because it was too warm to wear
+it, I was full as much amazed as if I never had heard of snow in
+August before. Truly, "seeing is believing"&mdash;and many a man lives
+a long life through, thinking he believes certain universally
+received and well established things, and yet never suspects that
+if he were confronted by those things once, he would discover
+that he did not really believe them before, but only thought he
+believed them.</p>
+
+<p>In a little while quite a number of peaks swung into view with
+long claws of glittering snow clasping them; and with here and
+there, in the shade, down the mountain side, a little solitary
+patch of snow looking no larger than a lady's pocket-handkerchief
+but being in reality as large as a "public square."</p>
+
+<p>And now, at last, we were fairly in the renowned SOUTH PASS,
+and whirling gayly along high above the common world. We were
+perched upon the extreme summit of the great range of the Rocky
+Mountains, toward which we had been climbing, patiently climbing,
+ceaselessly climbing, for days and nights together&mdash;and about us
+was gathered a convention of Nature's kings that stood ten,
+twelve, and even thirteen thousand feet high&mdash;grand old fellows
+who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington, in the twilight.
+We were in such an airy elevation above the creeping populations
+of the earth, that now and then when the obstructing crags stood
+out of the way it seemed that we could look around and abroad and
+contemplate the whole great globe, with its dissolving views of
+mountains, seas and continents stretching away through the
+mystery of the summer haze.</p>
+
+<a name="100"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="100.jpg (164K)" src="images/100.jpg" height="411" width="650">
+</center>
+<br>
+<a href="images/100.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Full Size" src="images/enlarge.jpg"></a>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley
+than a suspension bridge in the clouds&mdash;but it strongly suggested
+the latter at one spot. At that place the upper third of one or
+two majestic purple domes projected above our level on either
+hand and gave us a sense of a hidden great deep of mountains and
+plains and valleys down about their bases which we fancied we
+might see if we could step to the edge and look over. These
+Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes of
+cloud, which shredded away from time to time and drifted off
+fringed and torn, trailing their continents of shadow after them;
+and catching presently on an intercepting peak, wrapped it about
+and brooded there&mdash;then shredded away again and left the purple
+peak, as they had left the purple domes, downy and white with
+new-laid snow. In passing, these monstrous rags of cloud hung low
+and swept along right over the spectator's head, swinging their
+tatters so nearly in his face that his impulse was to shrink when
+they came closet. In the one place I speak of, one could look
+below him upon a world of diminishing crags and canyons leading
+down, down, and away to a vague plain with a thread in it which
+was a road, and bunches of feathers in it which were trees,&mdash;a
+pretty picture sleeping in the sunlight&mdash;but with a darkness
+stealing over it and glooming its features deeper and deeper
+under the frown of a coming storm; and then, while no film or
+shadow marred the noon brightness of his high perch, he could
+watch the tempest break forth down there and see the lightnings
+leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain drive along the
+canyon-sides, and hear the thunders peal and crash and roar. We
+had this spectacle; a familiar one to many, but to us a
+novelty.</p>
+
+<a name="101"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="101.jpg (164K)" src="images/101.jpg" height="1015" width="611">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We bowled along cheerily, and presently, at the very summit
+(though it had been all summit to us, and all equally level, for
+half an hour or more), we came to a spring which spent its water
+through two outlets and sent it in opposite directions. The
+conductor said that one of those streams which we were looking
+at, was just starting on a journey westward to the Gulf of
+California and the Pacific Ocean, through hundreds and even
+thousands of miles of desert solitudes. He said that the other
+was just leaving its home among the snow-peaks on a similar
+journey eastward&mdash;and we knew that long after we should have
+forgotten the simple rivulet it would still be plodding its
+patient way down the mountain sides, and canyon-beds, and between
+the banks of the Yellowstone; and by and by would join the broad
+Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts and
+unvisited wildernesses; and add a long and troubled pilgrimage
+among snags and wrecks and sandbars; and enter the Mississippi,
+touch the wharves of St. Louis and still drift on, traversing
+shoals and rocky channels, then endless chains of bottomless and
+ample bends, walled with unbroken forests, then mysterious byways
+and secret passages among woody islands, then the chained bends
+again, bordered with wide levels of shining sugar-cane in place
+of the sombre forests; then by New Orleans and still other chains
+of bends&mdash;and finally, after two long months of daily and nightly
+harassment, excitement, enjoyment, adventure, and awful peril of
+parched throats, pumps and evaporation, pass the Gulf and enter
+into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea, never to look
+upon its snow-peaks again or regret them.</p>
+
+<p>I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at
+home, and dropped it in the stream. But I put no stamp on it and
+it was held for postage somewhere.</p>
+
+<p>On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons,
+many tired men and women, and many a disgusted sheep and cow.</p>
+
+<p>In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I
+recognized John &mdash;&mdash;. Of all persons in the world to meet on top
+of the Rocky Mountains thousands of miles from home, he was the
+last one I should have looked for. We were school-boys together
+and warm friends for years. But a boyish prank of mine had
+disruptured this friendship and it had never been renewed. The
+act of which I speak was this. I had been accustomed to visit
+occasionally an editor whose room was in the third story of a
+building and overlooked the street. One day this editor gave me a
+watermelon which I made preparations to devour on the spot, but
+chancing to look out of the window, I saw John standing directly
+under it and an irresistible desire came upon me to drop the
+melon on his head, which I immediately did. I was the loser, for
+it spoiled the melon, and John never forgave me and we dropped
+all intercourse and parted, but now met again under these
+circumstances.</p>
+
+<a name="102"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="102.jpg (41K)" src="images/102.jpg" height="473" width="307">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We recognized each other simultaneously, and hands were
+grasped as warmly as if no coldness had ever existed between us,
+and no allusion was made to any. All animosities were buried and
+the simple fact of meeting a familiar face in that isolated spot
+so far from home, was sufficient to make us forget all things but
+pleasant ones, and we parted again with sincere "good-bye" and
+"God bless you" from both.</p>
+
+<p>We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky
+Mountains for many tedious hours&mdash;we started down them, now. And
+we went spinning away at a round rate too.</p>
+
+<p>We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains
+behind, and sped away, always through splendid scenery but
+occasionally through long ranks of white skeletons of mules and
+oxen&mdash;monuments of the huge emigration of other days&mdash;and here
+and there were up-ended boards or small piles of stones which the
+driver said marked the resting-place of more precious
+remains.</p>
+
+<p>It was the loneliest land for a grave! A land given over to
+the cayote and the raven&mdash;which is but another name for
+desolation and utter solitude. On damp, murky nights, these
+scattered skeletons gave forth a soft, hideous glow, like very
+faint spots of moonlight starring the vague desert. It was
+because of the phosphorus in the bones. But no scientific
+explanation could keep a body from shivering when he drifted by
+one of those ghostly lights and knew that a skull held it.</p>
+
+<a name="103"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="103.jpg (35K)" src="images/103.jpg" height="309" width="419">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>At midnight it began to rain, and I never saw anything like
+it&mdash;indeed, I did not even see this, for it was too dark. We
+fastened down the curtains and even caulked them with clothing,
+but the rain streamed in in twenty places, nothwithstanding.
+There was no escape. If one moved his feet out of a stream, he
+brought his body under one; and if he moved his body he caught
+one somewhere else. If he struggled out of the drenched blankets
+and sat up, he was bound to get one down the back of his neck.
+Meantime the stage was wandering about a plain with gaping
+gullies in it, for the driver could not see an inch before his
+face nor keep the road, and the storm pelted so pitilessly that
+there was no keeping the horses still. With the first abatement
+the conductor turned out with lanterns to look for the road, and
+the first dash he made was into a chasm about fourteen feet deep,
+his lantern following like a meteor. As soon as he touched bottom
+he sang out frantically:</p>
+
+<a name="104"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="104.jpg (30K)" src="images/104.jpg" height="328" width="316">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"Don't come here!"</p>
+
+<p>To which the driver, who was looking over the precipice where
+he had disappeared, replied, with an injured air: "Think I'm a
+dam fool?"</p>
+
+<a name="105"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="105.jpg (30K)" src="images/105.jpg" height="334" width="316">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The conductor was more than an hour finding the road&mdash;a matter
+which showed us how far we had wandered and what chances we had
+been taking. He traced our wheel-tracks to the imminent verge of
+danger, in two places. I have always been glad that we were not
+killed that night. I do not know any particular reason, but I
+have always been glad. In the morning, the tenth day out, we
+crossed Green River, a fine, large, limpid stream&mdash;stuck in it
+with the water just up to the top of our mail- bed, and waited
+till extra teams were put on to haul us up the steep bank. But it
+was nice cool water, and besides it could not find any fresh
+place on us to wet.</p>
+
+<p>At the Green River station we had breakfast&mdash;hot biscuits,
+fresh antelope steaks, and coffee&mdash;the only decent meal we tasted
+between the United States and Great Salt Lake City, and the only
+one we were ever really thankful for.</p>
+
+<p>Think of the monotonous execrableness of the thirty that went
+before it, to leave this one simple breakfast looming up in my
+memory like a shot- tower after all these years have gone by!</p>
+
+<p>At five P.M. we reached Fort Bridger, one hundred and
+seventeen miles from the South Pass, and one thousand and
+twenty-five miles from St. Joseph. Fifty-two miles further on,
+near the head of Echo Canyon, we met sixty United States soldiers
+from Camp Floyd. The day before, they had fired upon three
+hundred or four hundred Indians, whom they supposed gathered
+together for no good purpose. In the fight that had ensued, four
+Indians were captured, and the main body chased four miles, but
+nobody killed. This looked like business. We had a notion to get
+out and join the sixty soldiers, but upon reflecting that there
+were four hundred of the Indians, we concluded to go on and join
+the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Echo Canyon is twenty miles long. It was like a long, smooth,
+narrow street, with a gradual descending grade, and shut in by
+enormous perpendicular walls of coarse conglomerate, four hundred
+feet high in many places, and turreted like mediaeval castles.
+This was the most faultless piece of road in the mountains, and
+the driver said he would "let his team out." He did, and if the
+Pacific express trains whiz through there now any faster than we
+did then in the stage-coach, I envy the passengers the
+exhilaration of it. We fairly seemed to pick up our wheels and
+fly&mdash;and the mail matter was lifted up free from everything and
+held in solution! I am not given to exaggeration, and when I say
+a thing I mean it.</p>
+
+<p>However, time presses. At four in the afternoon we arrived on
+the summit of Big Mountain, fifteen miles from Salt Lake City,
+when all the world was glorified with the setting sun, and the
+most stupendous panorama of mountain peaks yet encountered burst
+on our sight. We looked out upon this sublime spectacle from
+under the arch of a brilliant rainbow! Even the overland
+stage-driver stopped his horses and gazed!</p>
+
+<p>Half an hour or an hour later, we changed horses, and took
+supper with a Mormon "Destroying Angel."</p>
+
+<p>"Destroying Angels," as I understand it, are Latter-Day Saints
+who are set apart by the Church to conduct permanent
+disappearances of obnoxious citizens. I had heard a deal about
+these Mormon Destroying Angels and the dark and bloody deeds they
+had done, and when I entered this one's house I had my shudder
+all ready. But alas for all our romances, he was nothing but a
+loud, profane, offensive, old blackguard! He was murderous
+enough, possibly, to fill the bill of a Destroyer, but would you
+have any kind of an Angel devoid of dignity? Could you abide an
+Angel in an unclean shirt and no suspenders? Could you respect an
+Angel with a horse-laugh and a swagger like a buccaneer?</p>
+
+<a name="106"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="106.jpg (47K)" src="images/106.jpg" height="488" width="313">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>There were other blackguards present&mdash;comrades of this one.
+And there was one person that looked like a gentleman&mdash;Heber C.
+Kimball's son, tall and well made, and thirty years old, perhaps.
+A lot of slatternly women flitted hither and thither in a hurry,
+with coffee-pots, plates of bread, and other appurtenances to
+supper, and these were said to be the wives of the Angel&mdash;or some
+of them, at least. And of course they were; for if they had been
+hired "help" they would not have let an angel from above storm
+and swear at them as he did, let alone one from the place this
+one hailed from.</p>
+
+<p>This was our first experience of the western "peculiar
+institution," and it was not very prepossessing. We did not tarry
+long to observe it, but hurried on to the home of the Latter-Day
+Saints, the stronghold of the prophets, the capital of the only
+absolute monarch in America&mdash;Great Salt Lake City. As the night
+closed in we took sanctuary in the Salt Lake House and unpacked
+our baggage.</p>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch13"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>We had a fine supper, of the freshest meats and fowls and
+vegetables&mdash;a great variety and as great abundance. We walked
+about the streets some, afterward, and glanced in at shops and
+stores; and there was fascination in surreptitiously staring at
+every creature we took to be a Mormon. This was fairy-land to us,
+to all intents and purposes&mdash;a land of enchantment, and goblins,
+and awful mystery. We felt a curiosity to ask every child how
+many mothers it had, and if it could tell them apart; and we
+experienced a thrill every time a dwelling-house door opened and
+shut as we passed, disclosing a glimpse of human heads and backs
+and shoulders&mdash;for we so longed to have a good satisfying look at
+a Mormon family in all its comprehensive ampleness, disposed in
+the customary concentric rings of its home circle.</p>
+
+<p>By and by the Acting Governor of the Territory introduced us
+to other "Gentiles," and we spent a sociable hour with them.
+"Gentiles" are people who are not Mormons. Our fellow-passenger,
+Bemis, took care of himself, during this part of the evening, and
+did not make an overpowering success of it, either, for he came
+into our room in the hotel about eleven o'clock, full of
+cheerfulness, and talking loosely, disjointedly and
+indiscriminately, and every now and then tugging out a ragged
+word by the roots that had more hiccups than syllables in it.
+This, together with his hanging his coat on the floor on one side
+of a chair, and his vest on the floor on the other side, and
+piling his pants on the floor just in front of the same chair,
+and then comtemplating the general result with superstitious awe,
+and finally pronouncing it "too many for him" and going to bed
+with his boots on, led us to fear that something he had eaten had
+not agreed with him.</p>
+
+<p>But we knew afterward that it was something he had been
+drinking. It was the exclusively Mormon refresher, "valley
+tan."</p>
+
+<p>Valley tan (or, at least, one form of valley tan) is a kind of
+whisky, or first cousin to it; is of Mormon invention and
+manufactured only in Utah. Tradition says it is made of
+(imported) fire and brimstone. If I remember rightly no public
+drinking saloons were allowed in the kingdom by Brigham Young,
+and no private drinking permitted among the faithful, except they
+confined themselves to "valley tan."</p>
+
+<a name="109"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="109.jpg (55K)" src="images/109.jpg" height="462" width="361">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Next day we strolled about everywhere through the broad,
+straight, level streets, and enjoyed the pleasant strangeness of
+a city of fifteen thousand inhabitants with no loafers
+perceptible in it; and no visible drunkards or noisy people; a
+limpid stream rippling and dancing through every street in place
+of a filthy gutter; block after block of trim dwellings, built of
+"frame" and sunburned brick&mdash;a great thriving orchard and garden
+behind every one of them, apparently&mdash;branches from the street
+stream winding and sparkling among the garden beds and fruit
+trees&mdash;and a grand general air of neatness, repair, thrift and
+comfort, around and about and over the whole. And everywhere were
+workshops, factories, and all manner of industries; and intent
+faces and busy hands were to be seen wherever one looked; and in
+one's ears was the ceaseless clink of hammers, the buzz of trade
+and the contented hum of drums and fly-wheels.</p>
+
+<a name="110a"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="110a.jpg (25K)" src="images/110a.jpg" height="348" width="310">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The armorial crest of my own State consisted of two dissolute
+bears holding up the head of a dead and gone cask between them
+and making the pertinent remark, "UNITED, WE
+STAND&mdash;(hic!)&mdash;DIVIDED, WE FALL." It was always too figurative
+for the author of this book. But the Mormon crest was easy. And
+it was simple, unostentatious, and fitted like a glove. It was a
+representation of a GOLDEN BEEHIVE, with the bees all at
+work!</p>
+
+<a name="110b"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="110b.jpg (23K)" src="images/110b.jpg" height="335" width="291">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The city lies in the edge of a level plain as broad as the
+State of Connecticut, and crouches close down to the ground under
+a curving wall of mighty mountains whose heads are hidden in the
+clouds, and whose shoulders bear relics of the snows of winter
+all the summer long.</p>
+
+<p>Seen from one of these dizzy heights, twelve or fifteen miles
+off, Great Salt Lake City is toned down and diminished till it is
+suggestive of a child's toy-village reposing under the majestic
+protection of the Chinese wall.</p>
+
+<p>On some of those mountains, to the southwest, it had been
+raining every day for two weeks, but not a drop had fallen in the
+city. And on hot days in late spring and early autumn the
+citizens could quit fanning and growling and go out and cool off
+by looking at the luxury of a glorious snow-storm going on in the
+mountains. They could enjoy it at a distance, at those seasons,
+every day, though no snow would fall in their streets, or
+anywhere near them.</p>
+
+<a name="111"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="111.jpg (83K)" src="images/111.jpg" height="621" width="498">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Salt Lake City was healthy&mdash;an extremely healthy city. They
+declared there was only one physician in the place and he
+was arrested every week regularly and held to answer under the
+vagrant act for having "no visible means of support." They always
+give you a good substantial article of truth in Salt Lake, and
+good measure and good weight, too. [Very often, if you wished to
+weigh one of their airiest little commonplace statements you
+would want the hay scales.]</p>
+
+<p>We desired to visit the famous inland sea, the American "Dead
+Sea," the great Salt Lake&mdash;seventeen miles, horseback, from the
+city&mdash;for we had dreamed about it, and thought about it, and
+talked about it, and yearned to see it, all the first part of our
+trip; but now when it was only arm's length away it had suddenly
+lost nearly every bit of its interest. And so we put it off, in a
+sort of general way, till next day&mdash;and that was the last we ever
+thought of it. We dined with some hospitable Gentiles; and
+visited the foundation of the prodigious temple; and talked long
+with that shrewd Connecticut Yankee, Heber C. Kimball (since
+deceased), a saint of high degree and a mighty man of
+commerce.</p>
+
+<a name="112"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="112.jpg (21K)" src="images/112.jpg" height="297" width="277">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We saw the "Tithing-House," and the "Lion House," and I do not
+know or remember how many more church and government buildings of
+various kinds and curious names. We flitted hither and thither
+and enjoyed every hour, and picked up a great deal of useful
+information and entertaining nonsense, and went to bed at night
+satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>The second day, we made the acquaintance of Mr. Street (since
+deceased) and put on white shirts and went and paid a state visit
+to the king. He seemed a quiet, kindly, easy-mannered, dignified,
+self-possessed old gentleman of fifty-five or sixty, and had a
+gentle craft in his eye that probably belonged there. He was very
+simply dressed and was just taking off a straw hat as we entered.
+He talked about Utah, and the Indians, and Nevada, and general
+American matters and questions, with our secretary and certain
+government officials who came with us. But he never paid any
+attention to me, notwithstanding I made several attempts to "draw
+him out" on federal politics and his high handed attitude toward
+Congress. I thought some of the things I said were rather fine.
+But he merely looked around at me, at distant intervals,
+something as I have seen a benignant old cat look around to see
+which kitten was meddling with her tail.</p>
+
+<p>By and by I subsided into an indignant silence, and so sat
+until the end, hot and flushed, and execrating him in my heart
+for an ignorant savage. But he was calm. His conversation with
+those gentlemen flowed on as sweetly and peacefully and musically
+as any summer brook. When the audience was ended and we were
+retiring from the presence, he put his hand on my head, beamed
+down on me in an admiring way and said to my brother:</p>
+
+<p>"Ah&mdash;your child, I presume? Boy, or girl?"</p>
+
+<a name="113"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="113.jpg (49K)" src="images/113.jpg" height="462" width="430">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch14"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Mr. Street was very busy with his telegraphic matters&mdash;and
+considering that he had eight or nine hundred miles of rugged,
+snowy, uninhabited mountains, and waterless, treeless, melancholy
+deserts to traverse with his wire, it was natural and needful
+that he should be as busy as possible. He could not go
+comfortably along and cut his poles by the road-side, either, but
+they had to be hauled by ox teams across those exhausting
+deserts&mdash;and it was two days' journey from water to water, in one
+or two of them. Mr. Street's contract was a vast work, every way
+one looked at it; and yet to comprehend what the vague words
+"eight hundred miles of rugged mountains and dismal deserts"
+mean, one must go over the ground in person&mdash;pen and ink
+descriptions cannot convey the dreary reality to the reader. And
+after all, Mr. S.'s mightiest difficulty turned out to be one
+which he had never taken into the account at all. Unto Mormons he
+had sub-let the hardest and heaviest half of his great
+undertaking, and all of a sudden they concluded that they were
+going to make little or nothing, and so they tranquilly threw
+their poles overboard in mountain or desert, just as it happened
+when they took the notion, and drove home and went about their
+customary business! They were under written contract to Mr.
+Street, but they did not care anything for that. They said they
+would "admire" to see a "Gentile" force a Mormon to fulfil a
+losing contract in Utah! And they made themselves very merry over
+the matter. Street said&mdash;for it was he that told us these
+things:</p>
+
+<p>"I was in dismay. I was under heavy bonds to complete my
+contract in a given time, and this disaster looked very much like
+ruin. It was an astounding thing; it was such a wholly
+unlooked-for difficulty, that I was entirely nonplussed. I am a
+business man&mdash;have always been a business man&mdash;do not know
+anything but business&mdash;and so you can imagine how like being
+struck by lightning it was to find myself in a country where
+written contracts were worthless!&mdash;that main security, that
+sheet- anchor, that absolute necessity, of business. My
+confidence left me. There was no use in making new
+contracts&mdash;that was plain. I talked with first one prominent
+citizen and then another. They all sympathized with me, first
+rate, but they did not know how to help me. But at last a Gentile
+said, 'Go to Brigham Young!&mdash;these small fry cannot do you any
+good.' I did not think much of the idea, for if the law could not
+help me, what could an individual do who had not even anything to
+do with either making the laws or executing them? He might be a
+very good patriarch of a church and preacher in its tabernacle,
+but something sterner than religion and moral suasion was needed
+to handle a hundred refractory, half-civilized sub-contractors.
+But what was a man to do? I thought if Mr. Young could not do
+anything else, he might probably be able to give me some advice
+and a valuable hint or two, and so I went straight to him and
+laid the whole case before him. He said very little, but he
+showed strong interest all the way through. He examined all the
+papers in detail, and whenever there seemed anything like a
+hitch, either in the papers or my statement, he would go back and
+take up the thread and follow it patiently out to an intelligent
+and satisfactory result. Then he made a list of the contractors'
+names. Finally he said:</p>
+
+<p>"'Mr. Street, this is all perfectly plain. These contracts are
+strictly and legally drawn, and are duly signed and certified.
+These men manifestly entered into them with their eyes open. I
+see no fault or flaw anywhere.'</p>
+
+<p>"Then Mr. Young turned to a man waiting at the other end of
+the room and said: 'Take this list of names to So-and-so, and
+tell him to have these men here at such-and-such an hour.'</p>
+
+<p>"They were there, to the minute. So was I. Mr. Young asked
+them a number of questions, and their answers made my statement
+good. Then he said to them:</p>
+
+<p>"'You signed these contracts and assumed these obligations of
+your own free will and accord?'</p>
+
+<p>"'Yes.'</p>
+
+<p>"'Then carry them out to the letter, if it makes paupers of
+you! Go!'</p>
+
+<a name="116"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="116.jpg (101K)" src="images/116.jpg" height="525" width="613">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"And they did go, too! They are strung across the deserts now,
+working like bees. And I never hear a word out of them.</p>
+
+<p>"There is a batch of governors, and judges, and other
+officials here, shipped from Washington, and they maintain the
+semblance of a republican form of government&mdash;but the petrified
+truth is that Utah is an absolute monarchy and Brigham Young is
+king!"</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Street was a fine man, and I believe his story. I knew him
+well during several years afterward in San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>Our stay in Salt Lake City amounted to only two days, and
+therefore we had no time to make the customary inquisition into
+the workings of polygamy and get up the usual statistics and
+deductions preparatory to calling the attention of the nation at
+large once more to the matter.</p>
+
+<a name="117"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="117.jpg (104K)" src="images/117.jpg" height="583" width="562">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I had the will to do it. With the gushing self-sufficiency of
+youth I was feverish to plunge in headlong and achieve a great
+reform here&mdash;until I saw the Mormon women. Then I was touched. My
+heart was wiser than my head. It warmed toward these poor,
+ungainly and pathetically "homely" creatures, and as I turned to
+hide the generous moisture in my eyes, I said, "No&mdash;the man that
+marries one of them has done an act of Christian charity which
+entitles him to the kindly applause of mankind, not their harsh
+censure&mdash;and the man that marries sixty of them has done a deed
+of open-handed generosity so sublime that the nations should
+stand uncovered in his presence and worship in silence."</p>
+
+<p>[For a brief sketch of Mormon history, and the noted Mountain
+Meadow massacre, see Appendices A and B. ]</p>
+
+<a name="118"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="118.jpg (82K)" src="images/118.jpg" height="637" width="481">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch15"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>It is a luscious country for thrilling evening stories about
+assassinations of intractable Gentiles. I cannot easily conceive
+of anything more cosy than the night in Salt Lake which we spent
+in a Gentile den, smoking pipes and listening to tales of how
+Burton galloped in among the pleading and defenceless "Morisites"
+and shot them down, men and women, like so many dogs. And how
+Bill Hickman, a Destroying Angel, shot Drown and Arnold dead for
+bringing suit against him for a debt. And how Porter Rockwell did
+this and that dreadful thing. And how heedless people often come
+to Utah and make remarks about Brigham, or polygamy, or some
+other sacred matter, and the very next morning at daylight such
+parties are sure to be found lying up some back alley,
+contentedly waiting for the hearse.</p>
+
+<p>And the next most interesting thing is to sit and listen to
+these Gentiles talk about polygamy; and how some portly old frog
+of an elder, or a bishop, marries a girl&mdash;likes her, marries her
+sister&mdash;likes her, marries another sister&mdash;likes her, takes
+another&mdash;likes her, marries her mother&mdash;likes her, marries her
+father, grandfather, great grandfather, and then comes back
+hungry and asks for more. And how the pert young thing of eleven
+will chance to be the favorite wife and her own venerable
+grandmother have to rank away down toward D 4 in their mutual
+husband's esteem, and have to sleep in the kitchen, as like as
+not. And how this dreadful sort of thing, this hiving together in
+one foul nest of mother and daughters, and the making a young
+daughter superior to her own mother in rank and authority, are
+things which Mormon women submit to because their religion
+teaches them that the more wives a man has on earth, and the more
+children he rears, the higher the place they will all have in the
+world to come&mdash;and the warmer, maybe, though they do not seem to
+say anything about that.</p>
+
+<a name="120"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="120.jpg (96K)" src="images/120.jpg" height="537" width="583">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>According to these Gentile friends of ours, Brigham Young's
+harem contains twenty or thirty wives. They said that some of
+them had grown old and gone out of active service, but were
+comfortably housed and cared for in the henery&mdash;or the Lion
+House, as it is strangely named. Along with each wife were her
+children&mdash;fifty altogether. The house was perfectly quiet and
+orderly, when the children were still. They all took their meals
+in one room, and a happy and home-like sight it was pronounced to
+be. None of our party got an opportunity to take dinner with Mr.
+Young, but a Gentile by the name of Johnson professed to have
+enjoyed a sociable breakfast in the Lion House. He gave a
+preposterous account of the "calling of the roll," and other
+preliminaries, and the carnage that ensued when the buckwheat
+cakes came in. But he embellished rather too much. He said that
+Mr. Young told him several smart sayings of certain of his
+"two-year-olds," observing with some pride that for many years he
+had been the heaviest contributor in that line to one of the
+Eastern magazines; and then he wanted to show Mr. Johnson one of
+the pets that had said the last good thing, but he could not find
+the child.</p>
+
+<p>He searched the faces of the children in detail, but could not
+decide which one it was. Finally he gave it up with a sigh and
+said:</p>
+
+<a name="121"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="121.jpg (86K)" src="images/121.jpg" height="503" width="574">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"I thought I would know the little cub again but I don't." Mr.
+Johnson said further, that Mr. Young observed that life was a
+sad, sad thing&mdash;"because the joy of every new marriage a man
+contracted was so apt to be blighted by the inopportune funeral
+of a less recent bride." And Mr. Johnson said that while he and
+Mr. Young were pleasantly conversing in private, one of the Mrs.
+Youngs came in and demanded a breast-pin, remarking that she had
+found out that he had been giving a breast-pin to No. 6, and she,
+for one, did not propose to let this partiality go on without
+making a satisfactory amount of trouble about it. Mr. Young
+reminded her that there was a stranger present. Mrs. Young said
+that if the state of things inside the house was not agreeable to
+the stranger, he could find room outside. Mr. Young promised the
+breast-pin, and she went away. But in a minute or two another
+Mrs. Young came in and demanded a breast-pin. Mr. Young began a
+remonstrance, but Mrs. Young cut him short. She said No. 6 had
+got one, and No. 11 was promised one, and it was "no use for him
+to try to impose on her&mdash;she hoped she knew her rights." He gave
+his promise, and she went. And presently three Mrs. Youngs
+entered in a body and opened on their husband a tempest of tears,
+abuse, and entreaty. They had heard all about No. 6, No. 11, and
+No. 14. Three more breast-pins were promised. They were hardly
+gone when nine more Mrs. Youngs filed into the presence, and a
+new tempest burst forth and raged round about the prophet and his
+guest. Nine breast-pins were promised, and the weird sisters
+filed out again. And in came eleven more, weeping and wailing and
+gnashing their teeth. Eleven promised breast-pins purchased peace
+once more.</p>
+
+<p>"That is a specimen," said Mr. Young. "You see how it is. You
+see what a life I lead. A man can't be wise all the time. In a
+heedless moment I gave my darling No. 6&mdash;excuse my calling her
+thus, as her other name has escaped me for the moment&mdash;a
+breast-pin. It was only worth twenty-five dollars&mdash;that is,
+apparently that was its whole cost&mdash;but its ultimate cost was
+inevitably bound to be a good deal more. You yourself have seen
+it climb up to six hundred and fifty dollars&mdash;and alas, even that
+is not the end! For I have wives all over this Territory of Utah.
+I have dozens of wives whose numbers, even, I do not know without
+looking in the family Bible. They are scattered far and wide
+among the mountains and valleys of my realm. And mark you, every
+solitary one of them will hear of this wretched breast pin, and
+every last one of them will have one or die. No. 6's breast pin
+will cost me twenty-five hundred dollars before I see the end of
+it. And these creatures will compare these pins together, and if
+one is a shade finer than the rest, they will all be thrown on my
+hands, and I will have to order a new lot to keep peace in the
+family. Sir, you probably did not know it, but all the time you
+were present with my children your every movement was watched by
+vigilant servitors of mine. If you had offered to give a child a
+dime, or a stick of candy, or any trifle of the kind, you would
+have been snatched out of the house instantly, provided it could
+be done before your gift left your hand. Otherwise it would be
+absolutely necessary for you to make an exactly similar gift to
+all my children&mdash;and knowing by experience the importance of the
+thing, I would have stood by and seen to it myself that you did
+it, and did it thoroughly. Once a gentleman gave one of my
+children a tin whistle&mdash;a veritable invention of Satan, sir, and
+one which I have an unspeakable horror of, and so would you if
+you had eighty or ninety children in your house. But the deed was
+done&mdash;the man escaped. I knew what the result was going to be,
+and I thirsted for vengeance. I ordered out a flock of Destroying
+Angels, and they hunted the man far into the fastnesses of the
+Nevada mountains. But they never caught him. I am not cruel,
+sir&mdash;I am not vindictive except when sorely outraged&mdash;but if I
+had caught him, sir, so help me Joseph Smith, I would have locked
+him into the nursery till the brats whistled him to death. By the
+slaughtered body of St. Parley Pratt (whom God assail!) there was
+never anything on this earth like it! I knew who gave the whistle
+to the child, but I could, not make those jealous mothers believe
+me. They believed I did it, and the result was just what any man
+of reflection could have foreseen: I had to order a hundred and
+ten whistles&mdash;I think we had a hundred and ten children in the
+house then, but some of them are off at college now&mdash;I had to
+order a hundred and ten of those shrieking things, and I wish I
+may never speak another word if we didn't have to talk on our
+fingers entirely, from that time forth until the children got
+tired of the whistles. And if ever another man gives a whistle to
+a child of mine and I get my hands on him, I will hang him higher
+than Haman! That is the word with the bark on it! Shade of Nephi!
+You don't know anything about married life. I am rich, and
+everybody knows it. I am benevolent, and everybody takes
+advantage of it. I have a strong fatherly instinct and all the
+foundlings are foisted on me.</p>
+
+<p>"Every time a woman wants to do well by her darling, she
+puzzles her brain to cipher out some scheme for getting it into
+my hands. Why, sir, a woman came here once with a child of a
+curious lifeless sort of complexion (and so had the woman), and
+swore that the child was mine and she my wife&mdash;that I had married
+her at such-and-such a time in such-and- such a place, but she
+had forgotten her number, and of course I could not remember her
+name. Well, sir, she called my attention to the fact that the
+child looked like me, and really it did seem to resemble me&mdash;a
+common thing in the Territory&mdash;and, to cut the story short, I put
+it in my nursery, and she left.
+</p>
+
+<a name="124"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="124.jpg (68K)" src="images/124.jpg" height="495" width="474">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>And by the ghost of Orson Hyde,
+when they came to wash the paint off that child it was an Injun!
+Bless my soul, you don't know anything about married life. It is
+a perfect dog's life, sir&mdash;a perfect dog's life. You can't
+economize. It isn't possible. I have tried keeping one set of
+bridal attire for all occasions. But it is of no use. First
+you'll marry a combination of calico and consumption that's as
+thin as a rail, and next you'll get a creature that's nothing
+more than the dropsy in disguise, and then you've got to eke out
+that bridal dress with an old balloon. That is the way it goes.
+And think of the wash-bill&mdash;(excuse these tears)&mdash;nine hundred
+and eighty-four pieces a week! No, sir, there is no such a thing
+as economy in a family like mine. Why, just the one item of
+cradles&mdash;think of it! And vermifuge! Soothing syrup! Teething
+rings! And 'papa's watches' for the babies to play with! And
+things to scratch the furniture with! And lucifer matches for
+them to eat, and pieces of glass to cut themselves with! The item
+of glass alone would support your family, I venture to say, sir.
+Let me scrimp and squeeze all I can, I still can't get ahead as
+fast as I feel I ought to, with my opportunities. Bless you, sir,
+at a time when I had seventy-two wives in this house, I groaned
+under the pressure of keeping thousands of dollars tied up in
+seventy-two bedsteads when the money ought to have been out at
+interest; and I just sold out the whole stock, sir, at a
+sacrifice, and built a bedstead seven feet long and ninety-six
+feet wide.
+</p>
+
+<a name="126"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="126.jpg (99K)" src="images/126.jpg" height="249" width="650">
+</center>
+<br><a href="images/126.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Full Size" src="images/enlarge.jpg"></a>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>
+But it was a failure, sir. I could not sleep. It
+appeared to me that the whole seventy-two women snored at once.
+The roar was deafening. And then the danger of it! That was what
+I was looking at. They would all draw in their breath at once,
+and you could actually see the walls of the house suck in&mdash;and
+then they would all exhale their breath at once, and you could
+see the walls swell out, and strain, and hear the rafters crack,
+and the shingles grind together. My friend, take an old man's
+advice, and don't encumber yourself with a large family&mdash;mind, I
+tell you, don't do it. In a small family, and in a small family
+only, you will find that comfort and that peace of mind which are
+the best at last of the blessings this world is able to afford
+us, and for the lack of which no accumulation of wealth, and no
+acquisition of fame, power, and greatness can ever compensate us.
+Take my word for it, ten or eleven wives is all you need&mdash;never
+go over it."</p>
+
+<p>Some instinct or other made me set this Johnson down as being
+unreliable. And yet he was a very entertaining person, and I
+doubt if some of the information he gave us could have been
+acquired from any other source. He was a pleasant contrast to
+those reticent Mormons.</p>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch16"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>All men have heard of the Mormon Bible, but few except the
+"elect" have seen it, or, at least, taken the trouble to read it.
+I brought away a copy from Salt Lake. The book is a curiosity to
+me, it is such a pretentious affair, and yet so "slow," so
+sleepy; such an insipid mess of inspiration. It is chloroform in
+print. If Joseph Smith composed this book, the act was a
+miracle&mdash;keeping awake while he did it was, at any rate. If he,
+according to tradition, merely translated it from certain ancient
+and mysteriously-engraved plates of copper, which he declares he
+found under a stone, in an out-of-the-way locality, the work of
+translating was equally a miracle, for the same reason.</p>
+
+<p>The book seems to be merely a prosy detail of imaginary
+history, with the Old Testament for a model; followed by a
+tedious plagiarism of the New Testament. The author labored to
+give his words and phrases the quaint, old-fashioned sound and
+structure of our King James's translation of the Scriptures; and
+the result is a mongrel&mdash;half modern glibness, and half ancient
+simplicity and gravity. The latter is awkward and constrained;
+the former natural, but grotesque by the contrast. Whenever he
+found his speech growing too modern&mdash;which was about every
+sentence or two&mdash;he ladled in a few such Scriptural phrases as
+"exceeding sore," "and it came to pass," etc., and made things
+satisfactory again. "And it came to pass" was his pet. If he had
+left that out, his Bible would have been only a pamphlet.</p>
+
+<p>The title-page reads as follows:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>THE BOOK OF MORMON: AN ACCOUNT WRITTEN BY THE HAND OF MORMON,
+UPON PLATES TAKEN FROM THE PLATES OF NEPHI.</p>
+
+<p>Wherefore it is an abridgment of the record of the people of
+Nephi, and also of the Lamanites; written to the Lamanites, who
+are a remnant of the House of Israel; and also to Jew and
+Gentile; written by way of commandment, and also by the spirit of
+prophecy and of revelation. Written and sealed up, and hid up
+unto the Lord, that they might not be destroyed; to come forth by
+the gift and power of God unto the interpretation thereof; sealed
+by the hand of Moroni, and hid up unto the Lord, to come forth in
+due time by the way of Gentile; the interpretation thereof by the
+gift of God. An abridgment taken from the Book of Ether also;
+which is a record of the people of Jared; who were scattered at
+the time the Lord confounded the language of the people when they
+were building a tower to get to Heaven.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>"Hid up" is good. And so is "wherefore"&mdash;though why
+"wherefore"? Any other word would have answered as
+well&mdash;though&mdash;in truth it would not have sounded so
+Scriptural.</p>
+
+<p>Next comes:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>THE TESTIMONY OF THREE WITNESSES. Be it known unto all
+nations, kindreds, tongues, and people unto whom this work shall
+come, that we, through the grace of God the Father, and our Lord
+Jesus Christ, have seen the plates which contain this record,
+which is a record of the people of Nephi, and also of the
+Lamanites, their brethren, and also of the people of Jared, who
+came from the tower of which hath been spoken; and we also know
+that they have been translated by the gift and power of God, for
+His voice hath declared it unto us; wherefore we know of a surety
+that the work is true. And we also testify that we have seen the
+engravings which are upon the plates; and they have been shown
+unto us by the power of God, and not of man. And we declare with
+words of soberness, that an angel of God came down from heaven,
+and he brought and laid before our eyes, that we beheld and saw
+the plates, and the engravings thereon; and we know that it is by
+the grace of God the Father, and our Lord Jesus Christ, that we
+beheld and bear record that these things are true; and it is
+marvellous in our eyes; nevertheless the voice of the Lord
+commanded us that we should bear record of it; wherefore, to be
+obedient unto the commandments of God, we bear testimony of these
+things. And we know that if we are faithful in Christ, we shall
+rid our garments of the blood of all men, and be found spotless
+before the judgment-seat of Christ, and shall dwell with Him
+eternally in the heavens. And the honor be to the Father, and to
+the Son, and to the Holy Ghost, which is one God. Amen. OLIVER
+COWDERY, DAVID WHITMER, MARTIN HARRIS.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>Some people have to have a world of evidence before they can
+come anywhere in the neighborhood of believing anything; but for
+me, when a man tells me that he has "seen the engravings which
+are upon the plates," and not only that, but an angel was there
+at the time, and saw him see them, and probably took his receipt
+for it, I am very far on the road to conviction, no matter
+whether I ever heard of that man before or not, and even if I do
+not know the name of the angel, or his nationality either.</p>
+
+<p>Next is this:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>AND ALSO THE TESTIMONY OF EIGHT WITNESSES. Be it known unto
+all nations, kindreds, tongues, and people unto whom this work
+shall come, that Joseph Smith, Jr., the translator of this work,
+has shown unto us the plates of which hath been spoken, which
+have the appearance of gold; and as many of the leaves as the
+said Smith has translated, we did handle with our hands; and we
+also saw the engravings thereon, all of which has the appearance
+of ancient work, and of curious workmanship. And this we bear
+record with words of soberness, that the said Smith has shown
+unto us, for we have seen and hefted, and know of a surety that
+the said Smith has got the plates of which we have spoken. And we
+give our names unto the world, to witness unto the world that
+which we have seen; and we lie not, God bearing witness of it.
+CHRISTIAN WHITMER, JACOB WHITMER, PETER WHITMER, JR., JOHN
+WHITMER, HIRAM PAGE, JOSEPH SMITH, SR., HYRUM SMITH, SAMUEL H.
+SMITH.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>And when I am far on the road to conviction, and eight men, be
+they grammatical or otherwise, come forward and tell me that they
+have seen the plates too; and not only seen those plates but
+"hefted" them, I am convinced. I could not feel more satisfied
+and at rest if the entire Whitmer family had testified.</p>
+
+<p>The Mormon Bible consists of fifteen "books"&mdash;being the books
+of Jacob, Enos, Jarom, Omni, Mosiah, Zeniff, Alma, Helaman,
+Ether, Moroni, two "books" of Mormon, and three of Nephi.</p>
+
+<p>In the first book of Nephi is a plagiarism of the Old
+Testament, which gives an account of the exodus from Jerusalem of
+the "children of Lehi"; and it goes on to tell of their
+wanderings in the wilderness, during eight years, and their
+supernatural protection by one of their number, a party by the
+name of Nephi. They finally reached the land of "Bountiful," and
+camped by the sea. After they had remained there "for the space
+of many days"&mdash;which is more Scriptural than definite&mdash;Nephi was
+commanded from on high to build a ship wherein to "carry the
+people across the waters." He travestied Noah's ark&mdash;but he
+obeyed orders in the matter of the plan. He finished the ship in
+a single day, while his brethren stood by and made fun of it&mdash;and
+of him, too&mdash;"saying, our brother is a fool, for he thinketh that
+he can build a ship." They did not wait for the timbers to dry,
+but the whole tribe or nation sailed the next day. Then a bit of
+genuine nature cropped out, and is revealed by outspoken Nephi
+with Scriptural frankness&mdash;they all got on a spree! They, "and
+also their wives, began to make themselves merry, insomuch that
+they began to dance, and to sing, and to speak with much
+rudeness; yea, they were lifted up unto exceeding rudeness."</p>
+
+<p>Nephi tried to stop these scandalous proceedings; but they
+tied him neck and heels, and went on with their lark. But observe
+how Nephi the prophet circumvented them by the aid of the
+invisible powers:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>And it came to pass that after they had bound me, insomuch
+that I could not move, the compass, which had been prepared of
+the Lord, did cease to work; wherefore, they knew not whither
+they should steer the ship, insomuch that there arose a great
+storm, yea, a great and terrible tempest, and we were driven back
+upon the waters for the space of three days; and they began to be
+frightened exceedingly, lest they should be drowned in the sea;
+nevertheless they did not loose me. And on the fourth day, which
+we had been driven back, the tempest began to be exceeding sore.
+And it came to pass that we were about to be swallowed up in the
+depths of the sea.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>Then they untied him.</p>
+
+<a name="131"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="131.jpg (77K)" src="images/131.jpg" height="533" width="451">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>And it came to pass after they had loosed me, behold, I took
+the compass, and it did work whither I desired it. And it came to
+pass that I prayed unto the Lord; and after I had prayed, the
+winds did cease, and the storm did cease, and there was a great
+calm.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>Equipped with their compass, these ancients appear to have had
+the advantage of Noah.</p>
+
+<p>Their voyage was toward a "promised land"&mdash;the only name they
+give it. They reached it in safety.</p>
+
+<p>Polygamy is a recent feature in the Mormon religion, and was
+added by Brigham Young after Joseph Smith's death. Before that,
+it was regarded as an "abomination." This verse from the Mormon
+Bible occurs in Chapter II. of the book of Jacob:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>For behold, thus saith the Lord, this people begin to wax in
+iniquity; they understand not the Scriptures; for they seek to
+excuse themselves in committing whoredoms, because of the things
+which were written concerning David, and Solomon his son. Behold,
+David and Solomon truly had many wives and concubines, which
+thing was abominable before me, saith the Lord; wherefore, thus
+saith the Lord, I have led this people forth out of the land of
+Jerusalem, by the power of mine arm, that I might raise up unto
+me a righteous branch from the fruit of the loins of Joseph.
+Wherefore, I the Lord God, will no suffer that this people shall
+do like unto them of old.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>However, the project failed&mdash;or at least the modern Mormon end
+of it&mdash;for Brigham "suffers" it. This verse is from the same
+chapter:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>Behold, the Lamanites your brethren, whom ye hate, because of
+their filthiness and the cursings which hath come upon their
+skins, are more righteous than you; for they have not forgotten
+the commandment of the Lord, which was given unto our fathers,
+that they should have, save it were one wife; and concubines they
+should have none.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>The following verse (from Chapter IX. of the Book of Nephi)
+appears to contain information not familiar to everybody:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>And now it came to pass that when Jesus had ascended into
+heaven, the multitude did disperse, and every man did take his
+wife and his children, and did return to his own home.</p>
+
+<p>And it came to pass that on the morrow, when the multitude was
+gathered together, behold, Nephi and his brother whom he had
+raised from the dead, whose name was Timothy, and also his son,
+whose name was Jonas, and also Mathoni, and Mathonihah, his
+brother, and Kumen, and Kumenenhi, and Jeremiah, and Shemnon, and
+Jonas, and Zedekiah, and Isaiah; now these were the names of the
+disciples whom Jesus had chosen.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>In order that the reader may observe how much more grandeur
+and picturesqueness (as seen by these Mormon twelve) accompanied
+on of the tenderest episodes in the life of our Saviour than
+other eyes seem to have been aware of, I quote the following from
+the same "book"&mdash;Nephi:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>And it came to pass that Jesus spake unto them, and bade them
+arise. And they arose from the earth, and He said unto them,
+Blessed are ye because of your faith. And now behold, My joy is
+full. And when He had said these words, He wept, and the
+multitude bear record of it, and He took their little children,
+one by one, and blessed them, and prayed unto the Father for
+them. And when He had done this He wept again, and He spake unto
+the multitude, and saith unto them, Behold your little ones. And
+as they looked to behold, they cast their eyes toward heaven, and
+they saw the heavens open, and they saw angels descending out of
+heaven as it were, in the midst of fire; and they came down and
+encircled those little ones about, and they were encircled about
+with fire; and the angels did minister unto them, and the
+multitude did see and hear and bear record; and they know that
+their record is true, for they all of them did see and hear,
+every man for himself; and they were in number about two thousand
+and five hundred souls; and they did consist of men, women, and
+children.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>And what else would they be likely to consist of?</p>
+
+<p>The Book of Ether is an incomprehensible medley of if
+"history," much of it relating to battles and sieges among
+peoples whom the reader has possibly never heard of; and who
+inhabited a country which is not set down in the geography. These
+was a King with the remarkable name of Coriantumr,^^ and he
+warred with Shared, and Lib, and Shiz, and others, in the "plains
+of Heshlon"; and the "valley of Gilgal"; and the "wilderness of
+Akish"; and the "land of Moran"; and the "plains of Agosh"; and
+"Ogath," and "Ramah," and the "land of Corihor," and the "hill
+Comnor," by "the waters of Ripliancum," etc., etc., etc. "And it
+came to pass," after a deal of fighting, that Coriantumr, upon
+making calculation of his losses, found that "there had been
+slain two millions of mighty men, and also their wives and their
+children"&mdash;say 5,000,000 or 6,000,000 in all&mdash;"and he began to
+sorrow in his heart." Unquestionably it was time. So he wrote to
+Shiz, asking a cessation of hostilities, and offering to give up
+his kingdom to save his people. Shiz declined, except upon
+condition that Coriantumr would come and let him cut his head off
+first&mdash;a thing which Coriantumr would not do. Then there was more
+fighting for a season; then four years were devoted to gathering
+the forces for a final struggle&mdash;after which ensued a battle,
+which, I take it, is the most remarkable set forth in
+history,&mdash;except, perhaps, that of the Kilkenny cats, which it
+resembles in some respects. This is the account of the gathering
+and the battle:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>7. And it came to pass that they did gather together all the
+people, upon all the face of the land, who had not been slain,
+save it was Ether. And it came to pass that Ether did behold all
+the doings of the people; and he beheld that the people who were
+for Coriantumr, were gathered together to the army of Coriantumr;
+and the people who were for Shiz, were gathered together to the
+army of Shiz; wherefore they were for the space of four years
+gathering together the people, that they might get all who were
+upon the face of the land, and that they might receive all the
+strength which it was possible that they could receive. And it
+came to pass that when they were all gathered together, every one
+to the army which he would, with their wives and their children;
+both men, women, and children being armed with weapons of war,
+having shields, and breast-plates, and head-plates, and being
+clothed after the manner of war, they did march forth one against
+another, to battle; and they fought all that day, and conquered
+not. And it came to pass that when it was night they were weary,
+and retired to their camps; and after they had retired to their
+camps, they took up a howling and a lamentation for the loss of
+the slain of their people; and so great were their cries, their
+howlings and lamentations, that it did rend the air exceedingly.
+And it came to pass that on the morrow they did go again to
+battle, and great and terrible was that day; nevertheless they
+conquered not, and when the night came again, they did rend the
+air with their cries, and their howlings, and their mournings,
+for the loss of the slain of their people.</p>
+
+<p>8. And it came to pass that Coriantumr wrote again an epistle
+unto Shiz, desiring that he would not come again to battle, but
+that he would take the kingdom, and spare the lives of the
+people. But behold, the Spirit of the Lord had ceased striving
+with them, and Satan had full power over the hearts of the
+people, for they were given up unto the hardness of their hearts,
+and the blindness of their minds that they might be destroyed;
+wherefore they went again to battle. And it came to pass that
+they fought all that day, and when the night came they slept upon
+their swords; and on the morrow they fought even until the night
+came; and when the night came they were drunken with anger, even
+as a man who is drunken with wine; and they slept again upon
+their swords; and on the morrow they fought again; and when the
+night came they had all fallen by the sword save it were fifty
+and two of the people of Coriantumr, and sixty and nine of the
+people of Shiz. And it came to pass that they slept upon their
+swords that night, and on the morrow they fought again, and they
+contended in their mights with their swords, and with their
+shields, all that day; and when the night came there were thirty
+and two of the people of Shiz, and twenty and seven of the people
+of Coriantumr.</p>
+
+<p>9. And it came to pass that they ate and slept, and prepared
+for death on the morrow. And they were large and mighty men, as
+to the strength of men. And it came to pass that they fought for
+the space of three hours, and they fainted with the loss of
+blood. And it came to pass that when the men of Coriantumr had
+received sufficient strength, that they could walk, they were
+about to flee for their lives, but behold, Shiz arose, and also
+his men, and he swore in his wrath that he would slay Coriantumr,
+or he would perish by the sword: wherefore he did pursue them,
+and on the morrow he did overtake them; and they fought again
+with the sword. And it came to pass that when they had all fallen
+by the sword, save it were Coriantumr and Shiz, behold Shiz had
+fainted with loss of blood. And it came to pass that when
+Coriantumr had leaned upon his sword, that he rested a little, he
+smote off the head of Shiz. And it came to pass that after he had
+smote off the head of Shiz, that Shiz raised upon his hands and
+fell; and after that he had struggled for breath, he died. And it
+came to pass that Coriantumr fell to the earth, and became as if
+he had no life. And the Lord spake unto Ether, and said unto him,
+go forth. And he went forth, and beheld that the words of the
+Lord had all been fulfilled; and he finished his record; and the
+hundredth part I have not written.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>It seems a pity he did not finish, for after all his dreary
+former chapters of commonplace, he stopped just as he was in
+danger of becoming interesting.</p>
+
+<p>The Mormon Bible is rather stupid and tiresome to read, but
+there is nothing vicious in its teachings. Its code of morals is
+unobjectionable- -it is "smouched" [Milton] from the New
+Testament and no credit given.</p>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch17"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>At the end of our two days' sojourn, we left Great Salt Lake
+City hearty and well fed and happy&mdash;physically superb but not so
+very much wiser, as regards the "Mormon question," than we were
+when we arrived, perhaps. We had a deal more "information" than
+we had before, of course, but we did not know what portion of it
+was reliable and what was not&mdash;for it all came from acquaintances
+of a day&mdash;strangers, strictly speaking. We were told, for
+instance, that the dreadful "Mountain Meadows Massacre" was the
+work of the Indians entirely, and that the Gentiles had meanly
+tried to fasten it upon the Mormons; we were told, likewise, that
+the Indians were to blame, partly, and partly the Mormons; and we
+were told, likewise, and just as positively, that the Mormons
+were almost if not wholly and completely responsible for that
+most treacherous and pitiless butchery. We got the story in all
+these different shapes, but it was not till several years
+afterward that Mrs. Waite's book, "The Mormon Prophet," came out
+with Judge Cradlebaugh's trial of the accused parties in it and
+revealed the truth that the latter version was the correct one
+and that the Mormons were the assassins. All our "information"
+had three sides to it, and so I gave up the idea that I could
+settle the "Mormon question" in two days. Still I have seen
+newspaper correspondents do it in one.</p>
+
+<a name="137"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="137.jpg (62K)" src="images/137.jpg" height="443" width="501">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I left Great Salt Lake a good deal confused as to what state
+of things existed there&mdash;and sometimes even questioning in my own
+mind whether a state of things existed there at all or not. But
+presently I remembered with a lightening sense of relief that we
+had learned two or three trivial things there which we could be
+certain of; and so the two days were not wholly lost. For
+instance, we had learned that we were at last in a pioneer land,
+in absolute and tangible reality.</p>
+
+<p>The high prices charged for trifles were eloquent of high
+freights and bewildering distances of freightage. In the east, in
+those days, the smallest moneyed denomination was a penny and it
+represented the smallest purchasable quantity of any commodity.
+West of Cincinnati the smallest coin in use was the silver
+five-cent piece and no smaller quantity of an article could be
+bought than "five cents' worth." In Overland City the lowest coin
+appeared to be the ten-cent piece; but in Salt Lake there did not
+seem to be any money in circulation smaller than a quarter, or
+any smaller quantity purchasable of any commodity than
+twenty-five cents' worth. We had always been used to half dimes
+and "five cents' worth" as the minimum of financial negotiations;
+but in Salt Lake if one wanted a cigar, it was a quarter; if he
+wanted a chalk pipe, it was a quarter; if he wanted a peach, or a
+candle, or a newspaper, or a shave, or a little Gentile whiskey
+to rub on his corns to arrest indigestion and keep him from
+having the toothache, twenty-five cents was the price, every
+time. When we looked at the shot-bag of silver, now and then, we
+seemed to be wasting our substance in riotous living, but if we
+referred to the expense account we could see that we had not been
+doing anything of the kind.</p>
+
+<a name="138"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="138.jpg (21K)" src="images/138.jpg" height="220" width="595">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>But people easily get reconciled to big money and big prices,
+and fond and vain of both&mdash;it is a descent to little coins and
+cheap prices that is hardest to bear and slowest to take hold
+upon one's toleration. After a month's acquaintance with the
+twenty-five cent minimum, the average human being is ready to
+blush every time he thinks of his despicable five-cent days. How
+sunburnt with blushes I used to get in gaudy Nevada, every time I
+thought of my first financial experience in Salt Lake. It was on
+this wise (which is a favorite expression of great authors, and a
+very neat one, too, but I never hear anybody say on this wise
+when they are talking). A young half-breed with a complexion like
+a yellow-jacket asked me if I would have my boots blacked. It was
+at the Salt Lake House the morning after we arrived. I said yes,
+and he blacked them. Then I handed him a silver five-cent piece,
+with the benevolent air of a person who is conferring wealth and
+blessedness upon poverty and suffering. The yellow-jacket took it
+with what I judged to be suppressed emotion, and laid it
+reverently down in the middle of his broad hand. Then he began to
+contemplate it, much as a philosopher contemplates a gnat's ear
+in the ample field of his microscope. Several mountaineers,
+teamsters, stage- drivers, etc., drew near and dropped into the
+tableau and fell to surveying the money with that attractive
+indifference to formality which is noticeable in the hardy
+pioneer. Presently the yellow-jacket handed the half dime back to
+me and told me I ought to keep my money in my pocket-book instead
+of in my soul, and then I wouldn't get it cramped and shriveled
+up so!</p>
+
+<a name="139"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="139.jpg (61K)" src="images/139.jpg" height="464" width="392">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>What a roar of vulgar laughter there was! I destroyed the
+mongrel reptile on the spot, but I smiled and smiled all the time
+I was detaching his scalp, for the remark he made was good for an
+"Injun."</p>
+
+<p>Yes, we had learned in Salt Lake to be charged great prices
+without letting the inward shudder appear on the surface&mdash;for
+even already we had overheard and noted the tenor of
+conversations among drivers, conductors, and hostlers, and
+finally among citizens of Salt Lake, until we were well aware
+that these superior beings despised "emigrants." We permitted no
+tell-tale shudders and winces in our countenances, for we wanted
+to seem pioneers, or Mormons, half-breeds, teamsters,
+stage-drivers, Mountain Meadow assassins&mdash;anything in the world
+that the plains and Utah respected and admired&mdash;but we were
+wretchedly ashamed of being "emigrants," and sorry enough that we
+had white shirts and could not swear in the presence of ladies
+without looking the other way.</p>
+
+<p>And many a time in Nevada, afterwards, we had occasion to
+remember with humiliation that we were "emigrants," and
+consequently a low and inferior sort of creatures. Perhaps the
+reader has visited Utah, Nevada, or California, even in these
+latter days, and while communing with himself upon the sorrowful
+banishment of these countries from what he considers "the world,"
+has had his wings clipped by finding that he is the one to be
+pitied, and that there are entire populations around him ready
+and willing to do it for him&mdash;yea, who are complacently doing it
+for him already, wherever he steps his foot.</p>
+
+<p>Poor thing, they are making fun of his hat; and the cut of his
+New York coat; and his conscientiousness about his grammar; and
+his feeble profanity; and his consumingly ludicrous ignorance of
+ores, shafts, tunnels, and other things which he never saw
+before, and never felt enough interest in to read about. And all
+the time that he is thinking what a sad fate it is to be exiled
+to that far country, that lonely land, the citizens around him
+are looking down on him with a blighting compassion because he is
+an "emigrant" instead of that proudest and blessedest creature
+that exists on all the earth, a "FORTY-NINER."</p>
+
+<a name="140"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="140.jpg (30K)" src="images/140.jpg" height="376" width="313">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The accustomed coach life began again, now, and by midnight it
+almost seemed as if we never had been out of our snuggery among
+the mail sacks at all. We had made one alteration, however. We
+had provided enough bread, boiled ham and hard boiled eggs to
+last double the six hundred miles of staging we had still to
+do.</p>
+
+<p>And it was comfort in those succeeding days to sit up and
+contemplate the majestic panorama of mountains and valleys spread
+out below us and eat ham and hard boiled eggs while our spiritual
+natures revelled alternately in rainbows, thunderstorms, and
+peerless sunsets. Nothing helps scenery like ham and eggs. Ham
+and eggs, and after these a pipe&mdash;an old, rank, delicious
+pipe&mdash;ham and eggs and scenery, a "down grade," a flying coach, a
+fragrant pipe and a contented heart&mdash;these make happiness. It is
+what all the ages have struggled for.</p>
+
+<a name="141"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="141.jpg (29K)" src="images/141.jpg" height="288" width="359">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch18"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>At eight in the morning we reached the remnant and ruin of
+what had been the important military station of "Camp Floyd,"
+some forty-five or fifty miles from Salt Lake City. At four P.M.
+we had doubled our distance and were ninety or a hundred miles
+from Salt Lake. And now we entered upon one of that species of
+deserts whose concentrated hideousness shames the diffused and
+diluted horrors of Sahara&mdash;an "alkali" desert. For sixty- eight
+miles there was but one break in it. I do not remember that this
+was really a break; indeed it seems to me that it was nothing but
+a watering depot in the midst of the stretch of sixty-eight
+miles. If my memory serves me, there was no well or spring at
+this place, but the water was hauled there by mule and ox teams
+from the further side of the desert. There was a stage station
+there. It was forty-five miles from the beginning of the desert,
+and twenty-three from the end of it.</p>
+
+<p>We plowed and dragged and groped along, the whole live-long
+night, and at the end of this uncomfortable twelve hours we
+finished the forty-five- mile part of the desert and got to the
+stage station where the imported water was. The sun was just
+rising. It was easy enough to cross a desert in the night while
+we were asleep; and it was pleasant to reflect, in the morning,
+that we in actual person had encountered an absolute desert and
+could always speak knowingly of deserts in presence of the
+ignorant thenceforward. And it was pleasant also to reflect that
+this was not an obscure, back country desert, but a very
+celebrated one, the metropolis itself, as you may say. All this
+was very well and very comfortable and satisfactory&mdash;but now we
+were to cross a desert in daylight. This was
+fine&mdash;novel&mdash;romantic&mdash;dramatically adventurous&mdash;this, indeed,
+was worth living for, worth traveling for! We would write home
+all about it.</p>
+
+<p>This enthusiasm, this stern thirst for adventure, wilted under
+the sultry August sun and did not last above one hour. One poor
+little hour&mdash;and then we were ashamed that we had "gushed" so.
+The poetry was all in the anticipation&mdash;there is none in the
+reality. Imagine a vast, waveless ocean stricken dead and turned
+to ashes; imagine this solemn waste tufted with ash-dusted
+sage-bushes; imagine the lifeless silence and solitude that
+belong to such a place; imagine a coach, creeping like a bug
+through the midst of this shoreless level, and sending up tumbled
+volumes of dust as if it were a bug that went by steam; imagine
+this aching monotony of toiling and plowing kept up hour after
+hour, and the shore still as far away as ever, apparently;
+imagine team, driver, coach and passengers so deeply coated with
+ashes that they are all one colorless color; imagine ash-drifts
+roosting above moustaches and eyebrows like snow accumulations on
+boughs and bushes. This is the reality of it.</p>
+
+<p>The sun beats down with dead, blistering, relentless
+malignity; the perspiration is welling from every pore in man and
+beast, but scarcely a sign of it finds its way to the surface&mdash;it
+is absorbed before it gets there; there is not the faintest
+breath of air stirring; there is not a merciful shred of cloud in
+all the brilliant firmament; there is not a living creature
+visible in any direction whither one searches the blank level
+that stretches its monotonous miles on every hand; there is not a
+sound&mdash;not a sigh&mdash;not a whisper&mdash;not a buzz, or a whir of wings,
+or distant pipe of bird&mdash;not even a sob from the lost souls that
+doubtless people that dead air. And so the occasional sneezing of
+the resting mules, and the champing of the bits, grate harshly on
+the grim stillness, not dissipating the spell but accenting it
+and making one feel more lonesome and forsaken than before.</p>
+
+<p>The mules, under violent swearing, coaxing and whip-cracking,
+would make at stated intervals a "spurt," and drag the coach a
+hundred or may be two hundred yards, stirring up a billowy cloud
+of dust that rolled back, enveloping the vehicle to the
+wheel-tops or higher, and making it seem afloat in a fog. Then a
+rest followed, with the usual sneezing and bit- champing. Then
+another "spurt" of a hundred yards and another rest at the end of
+it. All day long we kept this up, without water for the mules and
+without ever changing the team. At least we kept it up ten hours,
+which, I take it, is a day, and a pretty honest one, in an alkali
+desert. It was from four in the morning till two in the
+afternoon. And it was so hot! and so close! and our water
+canteens went dry in the middle of the day and we got so thirsty!
+It was so stupid and tiresome and dull! and the tedious hours did
+lag and drag and limp along with such a cruel deliberation! It
+was so trying to give one's watch a good long undisturbed spell
+and then take it out and find that it had been fooling away the
+time and not trying to get ahead any! The alkali dust cut through
+our lips, it persecuted our eyes, it ate through the delicate
+membranes and made our noses bleed and kept them bleeding&mdash;and
+truly and seriously the romance all faded far away and
+disappeared, and left the desert trip nothing but a harsh
+reality&mdash;a thirsty, sweltering, longing, hateful reality!</p>
+
+<p>Two miles and a quarter an hour for ten hours&mdash;that was what
+we accomplished. It was hard to bring the comprehension away down
+to such a snail-pace as that, when we had been used to making
+eight and ten miles an hour. When we reached the station on the
+farther verge of the desert, we were glad, for the first time,
+that the dictionary was along, because we never could have found
+language to tell how glad we were, in any sort of dictionary but
+an unabridged one with pictures in it. But there could not have
+been found in a whole library of dictionaries language sufficient
+to tell how tired those mules were after their twenty-three mile
+pull. To try to give the reader an idea of how thirsty they were,
+would be to "gild refined gold or paint the lily."</p>
+
+<p>Somehow, now that it is there, the quotation does not seem to
+fit&mdash;but no matter, let it stay, anyhow. I think it is a graceful
+and attractive thing, and therefore have tried time and time
+again to work it in where it would fit, but could not succeed.
+These efforts have kept my mind distracted and ill at ease, and
+made my narrative seem broken and disjointed, in places. Under
+these circumstances it seems to me best to leave it in, as above,
+since this will afford at least a temporary respite from the wear
+and tear of trying to "lead up" to this really apt and beautiful
+quotation.</p>
+
+<a name="145"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="145.jpg (32K)" src="images/145.jpg" height="271" width="427">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch19"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>On the morning of the sixteenth day out from St. Joseph we
+arrived at the entrance of Rocky Canyon, two hundred and fifty
+miles from Salt Lake. It was along in this wild country
+somewhere, and far from any habitation of white men, except the
+stage stations, that we came across the wretchedest type of
+mankind I have ever seen, up to this writing. I refer to the
+Goshoot Indians. From what we could see and all we could learn,
+they are very considerably inferior to even the despised Digger
+Indians of California; inferior to all races of savages on our
+continent; inferior to even the Terra del Fuegans; inferior to
+the Hottentots, and actually inferior in some respects to the
+Kytches of Africa. Indeed, I have been obliged to look the bulky
+volumes of Wood's "Uncivilized Races of Men" clear through in
+order to find a savage tribe degraded enough to take rank with
+the Goshoots. I find but one people fairly open to that shameful
+verdict. It is the Bosjesmans (Bushmen) of South Africa. Such of
+the Goshoots as we saw, along the road and hanging about the
+stations, were small, lean, "scrawny" creatures; in complexion a
+dull black like the ordinary American negro; their faces and
+hands bearing dirt which they had been hoarding and accumulating
+for months, years, and even generations, according to the age of
+the proprietor; a silent, sneaking, treacherous looking race;
+taking note of everything, covertly, like all the other "Noble
+Red Men" that we (do not) read about, and betraying no sign in
+their countenances; indolent, everlastingly patient and tireless,
+like all other Indians; prideless beggars&mdash;for if the beggar
+instinct were left out of an Indian he would not "go," any more
+than a clock without a pendulum; hungry, always hungry, and yet
+never refusing anything that a hog would eat, though often eating
+what a hog would decline; hunters, but having no higher ambition
+than to kill and eat jack-ass rabbits, crickets and grasshoppers,
+and embezzle carrion from the buzzards and cayotes; savages who,
+when asked if they have the common Indian belief in a Great
+Spirit show a something which almost amounts to emotion, thinking
+whiskey is referred to; a thin, scattering race of almost naked
+black children, these Goshoots are, who produce nothing at all,
+and have no villages, and no gatherings together into strictly
+defined tribal communities&mdash;a people whose only shelter is a rag
+cast on a bush to keep off a portion of the snow, and yet who
+inhabit one of the most rocky, wintry, repulsive wastes that our
+country or any other can exhibit.</p>
+
+<a name="147"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="147.jpg (86K)" src="images/147.jpg" height="444" width="602">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The Bushmen and our Goshoots are manifestly descended from the
+self-same gorilla, or kangaroo, or Norway rat, which-ever
+animal&mdash;Adam the Darwinians trace them to.</p>
+
+<p>One would as soon expect the rabbits to fight as the Goshoots,
+and yet they used to live off the offal and refuse of the
+stations a few months and then come some dark night when no
+mischief was expected, and burn down the buildings and kill the
+men from ambush as they rushed out. And once, in the night, they
+attacked the stage-coach when a District Judge, of Nevada
+Territory, was the only passenger, and with their first volley of
+arrows (and a bullet or two) they riddled the stage curtains,
+wounded a horse or two and mortally wounded the driver. The
+latter was full of pluck, and so was his passenger. At the
+driver's call Judge Mott swung himself out, clambered to the box
+and seized the reins of the team, and away they plunged, through
+the racing mob of skeletons and under a hurtling storm of
+missiles. The stricken driver had sunk down on the boot as soon
+as he was wounded, but had held on to the reins and said he would
+manage to keep hold of them until relieved.</p>
+
+<p>And after they were taken from his relaxing grasp, he lay with
+his head between Judge Mott's feet, and tranquilly gave
+directions about the road; he said he believed he could live till
+the miscreants were outrun and left behind, and that if he
+managed that, the main difficulty would be at an end, and then if
+the Judge drove so and so (giving directions about bad places in
+the road, and general course) he would reach the next station
+without trouble. The Judge distanced the enemy and at last
+rattled up to the station and knew that the night's perils were
+done; but there was no comrade-in-arms for him to rejoice with,
+for the soldierly driver was dead.</p>
+
+<a name="148"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="148.jpg (43K)" src="images/148.jpg" height="438" width="428">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Let us forget that we have been saying harsh things about the
+Overland drivers, now. The disgust which the Goshoots gave me, a
+disciple of Cooper and a worshipper of the Red Man&mdash;even of the
+scholarly savages in the "Last of the Mohicans" who are fittingly
+associated with backwoodsmen who divide each sentence into two
+equal parts: one part critically grammatical, refined and choice
+of language, and the other part just such an attempt to talk like
+a hunter or a mountaineer, as a Broadway clerk might make after
+eating an edition of Emerson Bennett's works and studying
+frontier life at the Bowery Theatre a couple of weeks&mdash;I say that
+the nausea which the Goshoots gave me, an Indian worshipper, set
+me to examining authorities, to see if perchance I had been
+over-estimating the Red Man while viewing him through the mellow
+moonshine of romance. The revelations that came were
+disenchanting. It was curious to see how quickly the paint and
+tinsel fell away from him and left him treacherous, filthy and
+repulsive&mdash;and how quickly the evidences accumulated that
+wherever one finds an Indian tribe he has only found Goshoots
+more or less modified by circumstances and surroundings&mdash;but
+Goshoots, after all. They deserve pity, poor creatures; and they
+can have mine&mdash;at this distance. Nearer by, they never get
+anybody's.</p>
+
+<p>There is an impression abroad that the Baltimore and
+Washington Railroad Company and many of its employees are
+Goshoots; but it is an error. There is only a plausible
+resemblance, which, while it is apt enough to mislead the
+ignorant, cannot deceive parties who have contemplated both
+tribes. But seriously, it was not only poor wit, but very wrong
+to start the report referred to above; for however innocent the
+motive may have been, the necessary effect was to injure the
+reputation of a class who have a hard enough time of it in the
+pitiless deserts of the Rocky Mountains, Heaven knows! If we
+cannot find it in our hearts to give those poor naked creatures
+our Christian sympathy and compassion, in God's name let us at
+least not throw mud at them.</p>
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch20"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>On the seventeenth day we passed the highest mountain peaks we
+had yet seen, and although the day was very warm the night that
+followed upon its heels was wintry cold and blankets were next to
+useless.</p>
+
+<p>On the eighteenth day we encountered the eastward-bound
+telegraph- constructors at Reese River station and sent a message
+to his Excellency Gov. Nye at Carson City (distant one hundred
+and fifty-six miles).</p>
+
+<p>On the nineteenth day we crossed the Great American
+Desert&mdash;forty memorable miles of bottomless sand, into which the
+coach wheels sunk from six inches to a foot. We worked our
+passage most of the way across. That is to say, we got out and
+walked. It was a dreary pull and a long and thirsty one, for we
+had no water. From one extremity of this desert to the other, the
+road was white with the bones of oxen and horses. It would hardly
+be an exaggeration to say that we could have walked the forty
+miles and set our feet on a bone at every step! The desert was
+one prodigious graveyard. And the log-chains, wagon tyres, and
+rotting wrecks of vehicles were almost as thick as the bones. I
+think we saw log-chains enough rusting there in the desert, to
+reach across any State in the Union. Do not these relics suggest
+something of an idea of the fearful suffering and privation the
+early emigrants to California endured?</p>
+
+<p>At the border of the Desert lies Carson Lake, or The "Sink" of
+the Carson, a shallow, melancholy sheet of water some eighty or a
+hundred miles in circumference. Carson River empties into it and
+is lost&mdash;sinks mysteriously into the earth and never appears in
+the light of the sun again&mdash;for the lake has no outlet
+whatever.</p>
+
+<p>There are several rivers in Nevada, and they all have this
+mysterious fate. They end in various lakes or "sinks," and that
+is the last of them. Carson Lake, Humboldt Lake, Walker Lake,
+Mono Lake, are all great sheets of water without any visible
+outlet. Water is always flowing into them; none is ever seen to
+flow out of them, and yet they remain always level full, neither
+receding nor overflowing. What they do with their surplus is only
+known to the Creator.</p>
+
+<p>On the western verge of the Desert we halted a moment at
+Ragtown. It consisted of one log house and is not set down on the
+map.</p>
+
+<p>This reminds me of a circumstance. Just after we left
+Julesburg, on the Platte, I was sitting with the driver, and he
+said:</p>
+
+<p>"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would
+like to listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once.
+When he was leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk,
+that he had an engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very
+anxious to go through quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and
+started off at an awful pace. The coach bounced up and down in
+such a terrific way that it jolted the buttons all off of
+Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through the roof
+of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier&mdash;said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile
+ago. But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get
+you there on time'&mdash;and you bet you he did, too, what was left of
+him!"</p>
+
+<a name="151"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="151.jpg (54K)" src="images/151.jpg" height="453" width="381">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>A day or two after that we picked up a Denver man at the cross
+roads, and he told us a good deal about the country and the
+Gregory Diggings. He seemed a very entertaining person and a man
+well posted in the affairs of Colorado. By and by he
+remarked:</p>
+
+<p>"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would
+like to listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once.
+When he was leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk,
+that he had an engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very
+anxious to go through quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and
+started off at an awful pace. The coach bounced up and down in
+such a terrific way that it jolted the buttons all off of
+Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through the roof
+of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier&mdash;said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile
+ago. But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get
+you there on time!'&mdash;and you bet you he did, too, what was left
+of him!"</p>
+
+<p>At Fort Bridger, some days after this, we took on board a
+cavalry sergeant, a very proper and soldierly person indeed. From
+no other man during the whole journey, did we gather such a store
+of concise and well- arranged military information. It was
+surprising to find in the desolate wilds of our country a man so
+thoroughly acquainted with everything useful to know in his line
+of life, and yet of such inferior rank and unpretentious bearing.
+For as much as three hours we listened to him with unabated
+interest. Finally he got upon the subject of trans- continental
+travel, and presently said:</p>
+
+<p>"I can tell you a very laughable thing indeed, if you would
+like to listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once.
+When he was leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk,
+that he had an engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very
+anxious to go through quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and
+started off at an awful pace. The coach bounced up and down in
+such a terrific way that it jolted the buttons all off of
+Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through the roof
+of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier&mdash;said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile
+ago. But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get
+you there on time!'&mdash;and you bet you he did, too, what was left
+of him!"</p>
+
+<p>When we were eight hours out from Salt Lake City a Mormon
+preacher got in with us at a way station&mdash;a gentle, soft-spoken,
+kindly man, and one whom any stranger would warm to at first
+sight. I can never forget the pathos that was in his voice as he
+told, in simple language, the story of his people's wanderings
+and unpitied sufferings. No pulpit eloquence was ever so moving
+and so beautiful as this outcast's picture of the first Mormon
+pilgrimage across the plains, struggling sorrowfully onward to
+the land of its banishment and marking its desolate way with
+graves and watering it with tears. His words so wrought upon us
+that it was a relief to us all when the conversation drifted into
+a more cheerful channel and the natural features of the curious
+country we were in came under treatment. One matter after another
+was pleasantly discussed, and at length the stranger said:</p>
+
+<p>"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would
+like to listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once.
+When he was leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk,
+that he had an engagement to lecture in Placerville, and was very
+anxious to go through quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and
+started off at an awful pace. The coach bounced up and down in
+such a terrific way that it jolted the buttons all off of
+Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through the roof
+of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier&mdash;said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile
+ago. But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get
+you there on time!'&mdash;and you bet you bet you he did, too, what
+was left of him!"</p>
+
+<p>Ten miles out of Ragtown we found a poor wanderer who had lain
+down to die. He had walked as long as he could, but his limbs had
+failed him at last. Hunger and fatigue had conquered him. It
+would have been inhuman to leave him there. We paid his fare to
+Carson and lifted him into the coach. It was some little time
+before he showed any very decided signs of life; but by dint of
+chafing him and pouring brandy between his lips we finally
+brought him to a languid consciousness. Then we fed him a little,
+and by and by he seemed to comprehend the situation and a
+grateful light softened his eye. We made his mail-sack bed as
+comfortable as possible, and constructed a pillow for him with
+our coats. He seemed very thankful. Then he looked up in our
+faces, and said in a feeble voice that had a tremble of honest
+emotion in it:</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen, I know not who you are, but you have saved my
+life; and although I can never be able to repay you for it, I
+feel that I can at least make one hour of your long journey
+lighter. I take it you are strangers to this great thorough fare,
+but I am entirely familiar with it. In this connection I can tell
+you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would like to listen to
+it. Horace Greeley&mdash;&mdash;"</p>
+
+<a name="154"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="154.jpg (51K)" src="images/154.jpg" height="374" width="434">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I said, impressively:</p>
+
+<p>"Suffering stranger, proceed at your peril. You see in me the
+melancholy wreck of a once stalwart and magnificent manhood. What
+has brought me to this? That thing which you are about to tell.
+Gradually but surely, that tiresome old anecdote has sapped my
+strength, undermined my constitution, withered my life. Pity my
+helplessness. Spare me only just this once, and tell me about
+young George Washington and his little hatchet for a change."</p>
+
+<p>We were saved. But not so the invalid. In trying to retain the
+anecdote in his system he strained himself and died in our
+arms.</p>
+
+<p>I am aware, now, that I ought not to have asked of the
+sturdiest citizen of all that region, what I asked of that mere
+shadow of a man; for, after seven years' residence on the Pacific
+coast, I know that no passenger or driver on the Overland ever
+corked that anecdote in, when a stranger was by, and survived.
+Within a period of six years I crossed and recrossed the Sierras
+between Nevada and California thirteen times by stage and
+listened to that deathless incident four hundred and eighty-one
+or eighty-two times. I have the list somewhere. Drivers always
+told it, conductors told it, landlords told it, chance passengers
+told it, the very Chinamen and vagrant Indians recounted it. I
+have had the same driver tell it to me two or three times in the
+same afternoon. It has come to me in all the multitude of tongues
+that Babel bequeathed to earth, and flavored with whiskey,
+brandy, beer, cologne, sozodont, tobacco, garlic, onions,
+grasshoppers&mdash;everything that has a fragrance to it through all
+the long list of things that are gorged or guzzled by the sons of
+men. I never have smelt any anecdote as often as I have smelt
+that one; never have smelt any anecdote that smelt so variegated
+as that one. And you never could learn to know it by its smell,
+because every time you thought you had learned the smell of it,
+it would turn up with a different smell. Bayard Taylor has
+written about this hoary anecdote, Richardson has published it;
+so have Jones, Smith, Johnson, Ross Browne, and every other
+correspondence-inditing being that ever set his foot upon the
+great overland road anywhere between Julesburg and San Francisco;
+and I have heard that it is in the Talmud. I have seen it in
+print in nine different foreign languages; I have been told that
+it is employed in the inquisition in Rome; and I now learn with
+regret that it is going to be set to music. I do not think that
+such things are right.</p>
+
+<p>Stage-coaching on the Overland is no more, and stage drivers
+are a race defunct. I wonder if they bequeathed that bald-headed
+anecdote to their successors, the railroad brakemen and
+conductors, and if these latter still persecute the helpless
+passenger with it until he concludes, as did many a tourist of
+other days, that the real grandeurs of the Pacific coast are not
+Yo Semite and the Big Trees, but Hank Monk and his adventure with
+Horace Greeley.
+</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>
+[And what makes that worn anecdote the more
+aggravating, is, that the adventure it celebrates never occurred.
+If it were a good anecdote, that seeming demerit would be its
+chiefest virtue, for creative power belongs to greatness; but
+what ought to be done to a man who would wantonly contrive so
+flat a one as this? If I were to suggest what ought to be done to
+him, I should be called extravagant&mdash;but what does the sixteenth
+chapter of Daniel say? Aha!]</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+
+<a name="156"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="156.jpg (17K)" src="images/156.jpg" height="162" width="442">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Roughing It, Part 2.
+by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
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+</body>
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+Project Gutenberg's Roughing It, Part 2., by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Roughing It, Part 2.
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2004 [EBook #8583]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 2. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+ ROUGHING IT
+
+ by Mark Twain
+
+ 1880
+
+ Part 2.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+And sure enough, two or three years afterward, we did hear him again.
+News came to the Pacific coast that the Vigilance Committee in Montana
+(whither Slade had removed from Rocky Ridge) had hanged him. I find an
+account of the affair in the thrilling little book I quoted a paragraph
+from in the last chapter--"The Vigilantes of Montana; being a Reliable
+Account of the Capture, Trial and Execution of Henry Plummer's Notorious
+Road Agent Band: By Prof. Thos. J. Dimsdale, Virginia City, M.T."
+Mr. Dimsdale's chapter is well worth reading, as a specimen of how the
+people of the frontier deal with criminals when the courts of law prove
+inefficient. Mr. Dimsdale makes two remarks about Slade, both of which
+are accurately descriptive, and one of which is exceedingly picturesque:
+"Those who saw him in his natural state only, would pronounce him to be a
+kind husband, a most hospitable host and a courteous gentleman; on the
+contrary, those who met him when maddened with liquor and surrounded by a
+gang of armed roughs, would pronounce him a fiend incarnate." And this:
+"From Fort Kearney, west, he was feared a great deal more than the
+almighty." For compactness, simplicity and vigor of expression, I will
+"back" that sentence against anything in literature. Mr. Dimsdale's
+narrative is as follows. In all places where italics occur, they are
+mine:
+
+ After the execution of the five men on the 14th of January, the
+ Vigilantes considered that their work was nearly ended. They had
+ freed the country of highwaymen and murderers to a great extent, and
+ they determined that in the absence of the regular civil authority
+ they would establish a People's Court where all offenders should be
+ tried by judge and jury. This was the nearest approach to social
+ order that the circumstances permitted, and, though strict legal
+ authority was wanting, yet the people were firmly determined to
+ maintain its efficiency, and to enforce its decrees. It may here be
+ mentioned that the overt act which was the last round on the fatal
+ ladder leading to the scaffold on which Slade perished, was the
+ tearing in pieces and stamping upon a writ of this court, followed
+ by his arrest of the Judge Alex. Davis, by authority of a presented
+ Derringer, and with his own hands.
+
+ J. A. Slade was himself, we have been informed, a Vigilante; he
+ openly boasted of it, and said he knew all that they knew. He was
+ never accused, or even suspected, of either murder or robbery,
+ committed in this Territory (the latter crime was never laid to his
+ charge, in any place); but that he had killed several men in other
+ localities was notorious, and his bad reputation in this respect was
+ a most powerful argument in determining his fate, when he was
+ finally arrested for the offence above mentioned. On returning from
+ Milk River he became more and more addicted to drinking, until at
+ last it was a common feat for him and his friends to "take the
+ town." He and a couple of his dependents might often be seen on one
+ horse, galloping through the streets, shouting and yelling, firing
+ revolvers, etc. On many occasions he would ride his horse into
+ stores, break up bars, toss the scales out of doors and use most
+ insulting language to parties present. Just previous to the day of
+ his arrest, he had given a fearful beating to one of his followers;
+ but such was his influence over them that the man wept bitterly at
+ the gallows, and begged for his life with all his power. It had
+ become quite common, when Slade was on a spree, for the shop-keepers
+ and citizens to close the stores and put out all the lights; being
+ fearful of some outrage at his hands. For his wanton destruction of
+ goods and furniture, he was always ready to pay, when sober, if he
+ had money; but there were not a few who regarded payment as small
+ satisfaction for the outrage, and these men were his personal
+ enemies.
+
+ From time to time Slade received warnings from men that he well knew
+ would not deceive him, of the certain end of his conduct. There was
+ not a moment, for weeks previous to his arrest, in which the public
+ did not expect to hear of some bloody outrage. The dread of his
+ very name, and the presence of the armed band of hangers-on who
+ followed him alone prevented a resistance which must certainly have
+ ended in the instant murder or mutilation of the opposing party.
+
+ Slade was frequently arrested by order of the court whose
+ organization we have described, and had treated it with respect by
+ paying one or two fines and promising to pay the rest when he had
+ money; but in the transaction that occurred at this crisis, he
+ forgot even this caution, and goaded by passion and the hatred of
+ restraint, he sprang into the embrace of death.
+
+ Slade had been drunk and "cutting up" all night. He and his
+ companions had made the town a perfect hell. In the morning, J. M.
+ Fox, the sheriff, met him, arrested him, took him into court and
+ commenced reading a warrant that he had for his arrest, by way of
+ arraignment. He became uncontrollably furious, and seizing the
+ writ, he tore it up, threw it on the ground and stamped upon it.
+
+ The clicking of the locks of his companions' revolvers was instantly
+ heard, and a crisis was expected. The sheriff did not attempt his
+ retention; but being at least as prudent as he was valiant, he
+ succumbed, leaving Slade the master of the situation and the
+ conqueror and ruler of the courts, law and law-makers. This was a
+ declaration of war, and was so accepted. The Vigilance Committee
+ now felt that the question of social order and the preponderance of
+ the law-abiding citizens had then and there to be decided. They
+ knew the character of Slade, and they were well aware that they must
+ submit to his rule without murmur, or else that he must be dealt
+ with in such fashion as would prevent his being able to wreak his
+ vengeance on the committee, who could never have hoped to live in
+ the Territory secure from outrage or death, and who could never
+ leave it without encountering his friend, whom his victory would
+ have emboldened and stimulated to a pitch that would have rendered
+ them reckless of consequences. The day previous he had ridden into
+ Dorris's store, and on being requested to leave, he drew his
+ revolver and threatened to kill the gentleman who spoke to him.
+ Another saloon he had led his horse into, and buying a bottle of
+ wine, he tried to make the animal drink it. This was not considered
+ an uncommon performance, as he had often entered saloons and
+ commenced firing at the lamps, causing a wild stampede.
+
+ A leading member of the committee met Slade, and informed him in the
+ quiet, earnest manner of one who feels the importance of what he is
+ saying: "Slade, get your horse at once, and go home, or there will
+ be ---- to pay." Slade started and took a long look, with his dark
+ and piercing eyes, at the gentleman. "What do you mean?" said he.
+ "You have no right to ask me what I mean," was the quiet reply, "get
+ your horse at once, and remember what I tell you." After a short
+ pause he promised to do so, and actually got into the saddle; but,
+ being still intoxicated, he began calling aloud to one after another
+ of his friends, and at last seemed to have forgotten the warning he
+ had received and became again uproarious, shouting the name of a
+ well-known courtezan in company with those of two men whom he
+ considered heads of the committee, as a sort of challenge; perhaps,
+ however, as a simple act of bravado. It seems probable that the
+ intimation of personal danger he had received had not been forgotten
+ entirely; though fatally for him, he took a foolish way of showing
+ his remembrance of it. He sought out Alexander Davis, the Judge of
+ the Court, and drawing a cocked Derringer, he presented it at his
+ head, and told him that he should hold him as a hostage for his own
+ safety. As the judge stood perfectly quiet, and offered no
+ resistance to his captor, no further outrage followed on this score.
+ Previous to this, on account of the critical state of affairs, the
+ committee had met, and at last resolved to arrest him. His
+ execution had not been agreed upon, and, at that time, would have
+ been negatived, most assuredly. A messenger rode down to Nevada to
+ inform the leading men of what was on hand, as it was desirable to
+ show that there was a feeling of unanimity on the subject, all along
+ the gulch.
+
+ The miners turned out almost en masse, leaving their work and
+ forming in solid column about six hundred strong, armed to the
+ teeth, they marched up to Virginia. The leader of the body well
+ knew the temper of his men on the subject. He spurred on ahead of
+ them, and hastily calling a meeting of the executive, he told them
+ plainly that the miners meant "business," and that, if they came up,
+ they would not stand in the street to be shot down by Slade's
+ friends; but that they would take him and hang him. The meeting was
+ small, as the Virginia men were loath to act at all. This momentous
+ announcement of the feeling of the Lower Town was made to a cluster
+ of men, who were deliberation behind a wagon, at the rear of a store
+ on Main street.
+
+ The committee were most unwilling to proceed to extremities. All
+ the duty they had ever performed seemed as nothing to the task
+ before them; but they had to decide, and that quickly. It was
+ finally agreed that if the whole body of the miners were of the
+ opinion that he should be hanged, that the committee left it in
+ their hands to deal with him. Off, at hot speed, rode the leader of
+ the Nevada men to join his command.
+
+ Slade had found out what was intended, and the news sobered him
+ instantly. He went into P. S. Pfouts' store, where Davis was, and
+ apologized for his conduct, saying that he would take it all back.
+
+ The head of the column now wheeled into Wallace street and marched
+ up at quick time. Halting in front of the store, the executive
+ officer of the committee stepped forward and arrested Slade, who was
+ at once informed of his doom, and inquiry was made as to whether he
+ had any business to settle. Several parties spoke to him on the
+ subject; but to all such inquiries he turned a deaf ear, being
+ entirely absorbed in the terrifying reflections on his own awful
+ position. He never ceased his entreaties for life, and to see his
+ dear wife. The unfortunate lady referred to, between whom and Slade
+ there existed a warm affection, was at this time living at their
+ ranch on the Madison. She was possessed of considerable personal
+ attractions; tall, well-formed, of graceful carriage, pleasing
+ manners, and was, withal, an accomplished horsewoman.
+
+ A messenger from Slade rode at full speed to inform her of her
+ husband's arrest. In an instant she was in the saddle, and with all
+ the energy that love and despair could lend to an ardent temperament
+ and a strong physique, she urged her fleet charger over the twelve
+ miles of rough and rocky ground that intervened between her and the
+ object of her passionate devotion.
+
+ Meanwhile a party of volunteers had made the necessary preparations
+ for the execution, in the valley traversed by the branch. Beneath
+ the site of Pfouts and Russell's stone building there was a corral,
+ the gate-posts of which were strong and high. Across the top was
+ laid a beam, to which the rope was fastened, and a dry-goods box
+ served for the platform. To this place Slade was marched,
+ surrounded by a guard, composing the best armed and most numerous
+ force that has ever appeared in Montana Territory.
+
+ The doomed man had so exhausted himself by tears, prayers and
+ lamentations, that he had scarcely strength left to stand under the
+ fatal beam. He repeatedly exclaimed, "My God! my God! must I die?
+ Oh, my dear wife!"
+
+ On the return of the fatigue party, they encountered some friends of
+ Slade, staunch and reliable citizens and members of the committee,
+ but who were personally attached to the condemned. On hearing of
+ his sentence, one of them, a stout-hearted man, pulled out his
+ handkerchief and walked away, weeping like a child. Slade still
+ begged to see his wife, most piteously, and it seemed hard to deny
+ his request; but the bloody consequences that were sure to follow
+ the inevitable attempt at a rescue, that her presence and entreaties
+ would have certainly incited, forbade the granting of his request.
+ Several gentlemen were sent for to see him, in his last moments, one
+ of whom (Judge Davis) made a short address to the people; but in
+ such low tones as to be inaudible, save to a few in his immediate
+ vicinity. One of his friends, after exhausting his powers of
+ entreaty, threw off his coat and declared that the prisoner could
+ not be hanged until he himself was killed. A hundred guns were
+ instantly leveled at him; whereupon he turned and fled; but, being
+ brought back, he was compelled to resume his coat, and to give a
+ promise of future peaceable demeanor.
+
+ Scarcely a leading man in Virginia could be found, though numbers of
+ the citizens joined the ranks of the guard when the arrest was made.
+ All lamented the stern necessity which dictated the execution.
+
+ Everything being ready, the command was given, "Men, do your duty,"
+ and the box being instantly slipped from beneath his feet, he died
+ almost instantaneously.
+
+ The body was cut down and carried to the Virginia Hotel, where, in a
+ darkened room, it was scarcely laid out, when the unfortunate and
+ bereaved companion of the deceased arrived, at headlong speed, to
+ find that all was over, and that she was a widow. Her grief and
+ heart-piercing cries were terrible evidences of the depth of her
+ attachment for her lost husband, and a considerable period elapsed
+ before she could regain the command of her excited feelings.
+
+There is something about the desperado-nature that is wholly
+unaccountable--at least it looks unaccountable. It is this. The true
+desperado is gifted with splendid courage, and yet he will take the most
+infamous advantage of his enemy; armed and free, he will stand up before
+a host and fight until he is shot all to pieces, and yet when he is under
+the gallows and helpless he will cry and plead like a child. Words are
+cheap, and it is easy to call Slade a coward (all executed men who do not
+"die game" are promptly called cowards by unreflecting people), and when
+we read of Slade that he "had so exhausted himself by tears, prayers and
+lamentations, that he had scarcely strength left to stand under the fatal
+beam," the disgraceful word suggests itself in a moment--yet in
+frequently defying and inviting the vengeance of banded Rocky Mountain
+cut-throats by shooting down their comrades and leaders, and never
+offering to hide or fly, Slade showed that he was a man of peerless
+bravery. No coward would dare that. Many a notorious coward, many a
+chicken-livered poltroon, coarse, brutal, degraded, has made his dying
+speech without a quaver in his voice and been swung into eternity with
+what looked liked the calmest fortitude, and so we are justified in
+believing, from the low intellect of such a creature, that it was not
+moral courage that enabled him to do it. Then, if moral courage is not
+the requisite quality, what could it have been that this stout-hearted
+Slade lacked?--this bloody, desperate, kindly-mannered, urbane gentleman,
+who never hesitated to warn his most ruffianly enemies that he would kill
+them whenever or wherever he came across them next! I think it is a
+conundrum worth investigating.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Just beyond the breakfast-station we overtook a Mormon emigrant train of
+thirty-three wagons; and tramping wearily along and driving their herd of
+loose cows, were dozens of coarse-clad and sad-looking men, women and
+children, who had walked as they were walking now, day after day for
+eight lingering weeks, and in that time had compassed the distance our
+stage had come in eight days and three hours--seven hundred and
+ninety-eight miles! They were dusty and uncombed, hatless, bonnetless
+and ragged, and they did look so tired!
+
+After breakfast, we bathed in Horse Creek, a (previously) limpid,
+sparkling stream--an appreciated luxury, for it was very seldom that our
+furious coach halted long enough for an indulgence of that kind. We
+changed horses ten or twelve times in every twenty-four hours--changed
+mules, rather--six mules--and did it nearly every time in four minutes.
+It was lively work. As our coach rattled up to each station six
+harnessed mules stepped gayly from the stable; and in the twinkling of an
+eye, almost, the old team was out, and the new one in and we off and away
+again.
+
+During the afternoon we passed Sweetwater Creek, Independence Rock,
+Devil's Gate and the Devil's Gap. The latter were wild specimens of
+rugged scenery, and full of interest--we were in the heart of the Rocky
+Mountains, now. And we also passed by "Alkali" or "Soda Lake," and we
+woke up to the fact that our journey had stretched a long way across the
+world when the driver said that the Mormons often came there from Great
+Salt Lake City to haul away saleratus. He said that a few days gone by
+they had shoveled up enough pure saleratus from the ground (it was a dry
+lake) to load two wagons, and that when they got these two wagons-loads
+of a drug that cost them nothing, to Salt Lake, they could sell it for
+twenty-five cents a pound.
+
+In the night we sailed by a most notable curiosity, and one we had been
+hearing a good deal about for a day or two, and were suffering to see.
+This was what might be called a natural ice-house. It was August, now,
+and sweltering weather in the daytime, yet at one of the stations the men
+could scape the soil on the hill-side under the lee of a range of
+boulders, and at a depth of six inches cut out pure blocks of ice--hard,
+compactly frozen, and clear as crystal!
+
+Toward dawn we got under way again, and presently as we sat with raised
+curtains enjoying our early-morning smoke and contemplating the first
+splendor of the rising sun as it swept down the long array of mountain
+peaks, flushing and gilding crag after crag and summit after summit, as
+if the invisible Creator reviewed his gray veterans and they saluted with
+a smile, we hove in sight of South Pass City. The hotel-keeper, the
+postmaster, the blacksmith, the mayor, the constable, the city marshal
+and the principal citizen and property holder, all came out and greeted
+us cheerily, and we gave him good day. He gave us a little Indian news,
+and a little Rocky Mountain news, and we gave him some Plains information
+in return. He then retired to his lonely grandeur and we climbed on up
+among the bristling peaks and the ragged clouds. South Pass City
+consisted of four log cabins, one if which was unfinished, and the
+gentleman with all those offices and titles was the chiefest of the ten
+citizens of the place. Think of hotel-keeper, postmaster, blacksmith,
+mayor, constable, city marshal and principal citizen all condensed into
+one person and crammed into one skin. Bemis said he was "a perfect
+Allen's revolver of dignities." And he said that if he were to die as
+postmaster, or as blacksmith, or as postmaster and blacksmith both, the
+people might stand it; but if he were to die all over, it would be a
+frightful loss to the community.
+
+Two miles beyond South Pass City we saw for the first time that
+mysterious marvel which all Western untraveled boys have heard of and
+fully believe in, but are sure to be astounded at when they see it with
+their own eyes, nevertheless--banks of snow in dead summer time. We were
+now far up toward the sky, and knew all the time that we must presently
+encounter lofty summits clad in the "eternal snow" which was so common
+place a matter of mention in books, and yet when I did see it glittering
+in the sun on stately domes in the distance and knew the month was August
+and that my coat was hanging up because it was too warm to wear it, I was
+full as much amazed as if I never had heard of snow in August before.
+Truly, "seeing is believing"--and many a man lives a long life through,
+thinking he believes certain universally received and well established
+things, and yet never suspects that if he were confronted by those things
+once, he would discover that he did not really believe them before, but
+only thought he believed them.
+
+In a little while quite a number of peaks swung into view with long claws
+of glittering snow clasping them; and with here and there, in the shade,
+down the mountain side, a little solitary patch of snow looking no larger
+than a lady's pocket-handkerchief but being in reality as large as a
+"public square."
+
+And now, at last, we were fairly in the renowned SOUTH PASS, and whirling
+gayly along high above the common world. We were perched upon the
+extreme summit of the great range of the Rocky Mountains, toward which we
+had been climbing, patiently climbing, ceaselessly climbing, for days and
+nights together--and about us was gathered a convention of Nature's kings
+that stood ten, twelve, and even thirteen thousand feet high--grand old
+fellows who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington, in the twilight.
+We were in such an airy elevation above the creeping populations of the
+earth, that now and then when the obstructing crags stood out of the way
+it seemed that we could look around and abroad and contemplate the whole
+great globe, with its dissolving views of mountains, seas and continents
+stretching away through the mystery of the summer haze.
+
+As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley than a
+suspension bridge in the clouds--but it strongly suggested the latter at
+one spot. At that place the upper third of one or two majestic purple
+domes projected above our level on either hand and gave us a sense of a
+hidden great deep of mountains and plains and valleys down about their
+bases which we fancied we might see if we could step to the edge and look
+over. These Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes
+of cloud, which shredded away from time to time and drifted off fringed
+and torn, trailing their continents of shadow after them; and catching
+presently on an intercepting peak, wrapped it about and brooded there
+--then shredded away again and left the purple peak, as they had left the
+purple domes, downy and white with new-laid snow. In passing, these
+monstrous rags of cloud hung low and swept along right over the
+spectator's head, swinging their tatters so nearly in his face that his
+impulse was to shrink when they came closet. In the one place I speak
+of, one could look below him upon a world of diminishing crags and
+canyons leading down, down, and away to a vague plain with a thread in it
+which was a road, and bunches of feathers in it which were trees,--a
+pretty picture sleeping in the sunlight--but with a darkness stealing
+over it and glooming its features deeper and deeper under the frown of a
+coming storm; and then, while no film or shadow marred the noon
+brightness of his high perch, he could watch the tempest break forth down
+there and see the lightnings leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain
+drive along the canyon-sides, and hear the thunders peal and crash and
+roar. We had this spectacle; a familiar one to many, but to us a
+novelty.
+
+We bowled along cheerily, and presently, at the very summit (though it
+had been all summit to us, and all equally level, for half an hour or
+more), we came to a spring which spent its water through two outlets and
+sent it in opposite directions. The conductor said that one of those
+streams which we were looking at, was just starting on a journey westward
+to the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean, through hundreds and
+even thousands of miles of desert solitudes. He said that the other was
+just leaving its home among the snow-peaks on a similar journey eastward
+--and we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple rivulet
+it would still be plodding its patient way down the mountain sides, and
+canyon-beds, and between the banks of the Yellowstone; and by and by
+would join the broad Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts
+and unvisited wildernesses; and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among
+snags and wrecks and sandbars; and enter the Mississippi, touch the
+wharves of St. Louis and still drift on, traversing shoals and rocky
+channels, then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends, walled with
+unbroken forests, then mysterious byways and secret passages among woody
+islands, then the chained bends again, bordered with wide levels of
+shining sugar-cane in place of the sombre forests; then by New Orleans
+and still other chains of bends--and finally, after two long months of
+daily and nightly harassment, excitement, enjoyment, adventure, and awful
+peril of parched throats, pumps and evaporation, pass the Gulf and enter
+into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea, never to look upon its
+snow-peaks again or regret them.
+
+I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at home, and
+dropped it in the stream. But I put no stamp on it and it was held for
+postage somewhere.
+
+On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons, many tired
+men and women, and many a disgusted sheep and cow.
+
+In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I recognized
+John -----. Of all persons in the world to meet on top of the Rocky
+Mountains thousands of miles from home, he was the last one I should have
+looked for. We were school-boys together and warm friends for years.
+But a boyish prank of mine had disruptured this friendship and it had
+never been renewed. The act of which I speak was this. I had been
+accustomed to visit occasionally an editor whose room was in the third
+story of a building and overlooked the street. One day this editor gave
+me a watermelon which I made preparations to devour on the spot, but
+chancing to look out of the window, I saw John standing directly under it
+and an irresistible desire came upon me to drop the melon on his head,
+which I immediately did. I was the loser, for it spoiled the melon, and
+John never forgave me and we dropped all intercourse and parted, but now
+met again under these circumstances.
+
+We recognized each other simultaneously, and hands were grasped as warmly
+as if no coldness had ever existed between us, and no allusion was made
+to any. All animosities were buried and the simple fact of meeting a
+familiar face in that isolated spot so far from home, was sufficient to
+make us forget all things but pleasant ones, and we parted again with
+sincere "good-bye" and "God bless you" from both.
+
+We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky Mountains for
+many tedious hours--we started down them, now. And we went spinning away
+at a round rate too.
+
+We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains behind, and
+sped away, always through splendid scenery but occasionally through long
+ranks of white skeletons of mules and oxen--monuments of the huge
+emigration of other days--and here and there were up-ended boards or
+small piles of stones which the driver said marked the resting-place of
+more precious remains.
+
+It was the loneliest land for a grave! A land given over to the cayote
+and the raven--which is but another name for desolation and utter
+solitude. On damp, murky nights, these scattered skeletons gave forth a
+soft, hideous glow, like very faint spots of moonlight starring the vague
+desert. It was because of the phosphorus in the bones. But no
+scientific explanation could keep a body from shivering when he drifted
+by one of those ghostly lights and knew that a skull held it.
+
+At midnight it began to rain, and I never saw anything like it--indeed, I
+did not even see this, for it was too dark. We fastened down the
+curtains and even caulked them with clothing, but the rain streamed in in
+twenty places, nothwithstanding. There was no escape. If one moved his
+feet out of a stream, he brought his body under one; and if he moved his
+body he caught one somewhere else. If he struggled out of the drenched
+blankets and sat up, he was bound to get one down the back of his neck.
+Meantime the stage was wandering about a plain with gaping gullies in it,
+for the driver could not see an inch before his face nor keep the road,
+and the storm pelted so pitilessly that there was no keeping the horses
+still. With the first abatement the conductor turned out with lanterns
+to look for the road, and the first dash he made was into a chasm about
+fourteen feet deep, his lantern following like a meteor. As soon as he
+touched bottom he sang out frantically:
+
+"Don't come here!"
+
+To which the driver, who was looking over the precipice where he had
+disappeared, replied, with an injured air: "Think I'm a dam fool?"
+
+The conductor was more than an hour finding the road--a matter which
+showed us how far we had wandered and what chances we had been taking.
+He traced our wheel-tracks to the imminent verge of danger, in two
+places. I have always been glad that we were not killed that night.
+I do not know any particular reason, but I have always been glad.
+In the morning, the tenth day out, we crossed Green River, a fine, large,
+limpid stream--stuck in it with the water just up to the top of our
+mail-bed, and waited till extra teams were put on to haul us up the steep
+bank. But it was nice cool water, and besides it could not find any
+fresh place on us to wet.
+
+At the Green River station we had breakfast--hot biscuits, fresh antelope
+steaks, and coffee--the only decent meal we tasted between the United
+States and Great Salt Lake City, and the only one we were ever really
+thankful for.
+
+Think of the monotonous execrableness of the thirty that went before it,
+to leave this one simple breakfast looming up in my memory like a
+shot-tower after all these years have gone by!
+
+At five P.M. we reached Fort Bridger, one hundred and seventeen miles
+from the South Pass, and one thousand and twenty-five miles from St.
+Joseph. Fifty-two miles further on, near the head of Echo Canyon, we met
+sixty United States soldiers from Camp Floyd. The day before, they had
+fired upon three hundred or four hundred Indians, whom they supposed
+gathered together for no good purpose. In the fight that had ensued,
+four Indians were captured, and the main body chased four miles, but
+nobody killed. This looked like business. We had a notion to get out
+and join the sixty soldiers, but upon reflecting that there were four
+hundred of the Indians, we concluded to go on and join the Indians.
+
+Echo Canyon is twenty miles long. It was like a long, smooth, narrow
+street, with a gradual descending grade, and shut in by enormous
+perpendicular walls of coarse conglomerate, four hundred feet high in
+many places, and turreted like mediaeval castles. This was the most
+faultless piece of road in the mountains, and the driver said he would
+"let his team out." He did, and if the Pacific express trains whiz
+through there now any faster than we did then in the stage-coach, I envy
+the passengers the exhilaration of it. We fairly seemed to pick up our
+wheels and fly--and the mail matter was lifted up free from everything
+and held in solution! I am not given to exaggeration, and when I say a
+thing I mean it.
+
+However, time presses. At four in the afternoon we arrived on the summit
+of Big Mountain, fifteen miles from Salt Lake City, when all the world
+was glorified with the setting sun, and the most stupendous panorama of
+mountain peaks yet encountered burst on our sight. We looked out upon
+this sublime spectacle from under the arch of a brilliant rainbow! Even
+the overland stage-driver stopped his horses and gazed!
+
+Half an hour or an hour later, we changed horses, and took supper with a
+Mormon "Destroying Angel."
+
+"Destroying Angels," as I understand it, are Latter-Day Saints who are
+set apart by the Church to conduct permanent disappearances of obnoxious
+citizens. I had heard a deal about these Mormon Destroying Angels and
+the dark and bloody deeds they had done, and when I entered this one's
+house I had my shudder all ready. But alas for all our romances, he was
+nothing but a loud, profane, offensive, old blackguard! He was murderous
+enough, possibly, to fill the bill of a Destroyer, but would you have any
+kind of an Angel devoid of dignity? Could you abide an Angel in an
+unclean shirt and no suspenders? Could you respect an Angel with a
+horse-laugh and a swagger like a buccaneer?
+
+There were other blackguards present--comrades of this one. And there
+was one person that looked like a gentleman--Heber C. Kimball's son, tall
+and well made, and thirty years old, perhaps. A lot of slatternly women
+flitted hither and thither in a hurry, with coffee-pots, plates of bread,
+and other appurtenances to supper, and these were said to be the wives of
+the Angel--or some of them, at least. And of course they were; for if
+they had been hired "help" they would not have let an angel from above
+storm and swear at them as he did, let alone one from the place this one
+hailed from.
+
+This was our first experience of the western "peculiar institution," and
+it was not very prepossessing. We did not tarry long to observe it, but
+hurried on to the home of the Latter-Day Saints, the stronghold of the
+prophets, the capital of the only absolute monarch in America--Great Salt
+Lake City. As the night closed in we took sanctuary in the Salt Lake
+House and unpacked our baggage.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+We had a fine supper, of the freshest meats and fowls and vegetables--a
+great variety and as great abundance. We walked about the streets some,
+afterward, and glanced in at shops and stores; and there was fascination
+in surreptitiously staring at every creature we took to be a Mormon.
+This was fairy-land to us, to all intents and purposes--a land of
+enchantment, and goblins, and awful mystery. We felt a curiosity to ask
+every child how many mothers it had, and if it could tell them apart; and
+we experienced a thrill every time a dwelling-house door opened and shut
+as we passed, disclosing a glimpse of human heads and backs and
+shoulders--for we so longed to have a good satisfying look at a Mormon
+family in all its comprehensive ampleness, disposed in the customary
+concentric rings of its home circle.
+
+By and by the Acting Governor of the Territory introduced us to other
+"Gentiles," and we spent a sociable hour with them. "Gentiles" are
+people who are not Mormons. Our fellow-passenger, Bemis, took care of
+himself, during this part of the evening, and did not make an
+overpowering success of it, either, for he came into our room in the
+hotel about eleven o'clock, full of cheerfulness, and talking loosely,
+disjointedly and indiscriminately, and every now and then tugging out a
+ragged word by the roots that had more hiccups than syllables in it.
+This, together with his hanging his coat on the floor on one side of a
+chair, and his vest on the floor on the other side, and piling his pants
+on the floor just in front of the same chair, and then comtemplating the
+general result with superstitious awe, and finally pronouncing it "too
+many for him" and going to bed with his boots on, led us to fear that
+something he had eaten had not agreed with him.
+
+But we knew afterward that it was something he had been drinking. It was
+the exclusively Mormon refresher, "valley tan."
+
+Valley tan (or, at least, one form of valley tan) is a kind of whisky,
+or first cousin to it; is of Mormon invention and manufactured only in
+Utah. Tradition says it is made of (imported) fire and brimstone. If I
+remember rightly no public drinking saloons were allowed in the kingdom
+by Brigham Young, and no private drinking permitted among the faithful,
+except they confined themselves to "valley tan."
+
+Next day we strolled about everywhere through the broad, straight, level
+streets, and enjoyed the pleasant strangeness of a city of fifteen
+thousand inhabitants with no loafers perceptible in it; and no visible
+drunkards or noisy people; a limpid stream rippling and dancing through
+every street in place of a filthy gutter; block after block of trim
+dwellings, built of "frame" and sunburned brick--a great thriving orchard
+and garden behind every one of them, apparently--branches from the street
+stream winding and sparkling among the garden beds and fruit trees--and a
+grand general air of neatness, repair, thrift and comfort, around and
+about and over the whole. And everywhere were workshops, factories, and
+all manner of industries; and intent faces and busy hands were to be seen
+wherever one looked; and in one's ears was the ceaseless clink of
+hammers, the buzz of trade and the contented hum of drums and fly-wheels.
+
+The armorial crest of my own State consisted of two dissolute bears
+holding up the head of a dead and gone cask between them and making the
+pertinent remark, "UNITED, WE STAND--(hic!)--DIVIDED, WE FALL." It was
+always too figurative for the author of this book. But the Mormon crest
+was easy. And it was simple, unostentatious, and fitted like a glove.
+It was a representation of a GOLDEN BEEHIVE, with the bees all at work!
+
+The city lies in the edge of a level plain as broad as the State of
+Connecticut, and crouches close down to the ground under a curving wall
+of mighty mountains whose heads are hidden in the clouds, and whose
+shoulders bear relics of the snows of winter all the summer long.
+
+Seen from one of these dizzy heights, twelve or fifteen miles off, Great
+Salt Lake City is toned down and diminished till it is suggestive of a
+child's toy-village reposing under the majestic protection of the Chinese
+wall.
+
+On some of those mountains, to the southwest, it had been raining every
+day for two weeks, but not a drop had fallen in the city. And on hot
+days in late spring and early autumn the citizens could quit fanning and
+growling and go out and cool off by looking at the luxury of a glorious
+snow-storm going on in the mountains. They could enjoy it at a distance,
+at those seasons, every day, though no snow would fall in their streets,
+or anywhere near them.
+
+Salt Lake City was healthy--an extremely healthy city.
+
+They declared there was only one physician in the place and he was
+arrested every week regularly and held to answer under the vagrant act
+for having "no visible means of support." They always give you a good
+substantial article of truth in Salt Lake, and good measure and good
+weight, too. [Very often, if you wished to weigh one of their airiest
+little commonplace statements you would want the hay scales.]
+
+We desired to visit the famous inland sea, the American "Dead Sea," the
+great Salt Lake--seventeen miles, horseback, from the city--for we had
+dreamed about it, and thought about it, and talked about it, and yearned
+to see it, all the first part of our trip; but now when it was only arm's
+length away it had suddenly lost nearly every bit of its interest. And
+so we put it off, in a sort of general way, till next day--and that was
+the last we ever thought of it. We dined with some hospitable Gentiles;
+and visited the foundation of the prodigious temple; and talked long with
+that shrewd Connecticut Yankee, Heber C. Kimball (since deceased), a
+saint of high degree and a mighty man of commerce.
+
+We saw the "Tithing-House," and the "Lion House," and I do not know or
+remember how many more church and government buildings of various kinds
+and curious names. We flitted hither and thither and enjoyed every hour,
+and picked up a great deal of useful information and entertaining
+nonsense, and went to bed at night satisfied.
+
+The second day, we made the acquaintance of Mr. Street (since deceased)
+and put on white shirts and went and paid a state visit to the king.
+He seemed a quiet, kindly, easy-mannered, dignified, self-possessed old
+gentleman of fifty-five or sixty, and had a gentle craft in his eye that
+probably belonged there. He was very simply dressed and was just taking
+off a straw hat as we entered. He talked about Utah, and the Indians,
+and Nevada, and general American matters and questions, with our
+secretary and certain government officials who came with us. But he
+never paid any attention to me, notwithstanding I made several attempts
+to "draw him out" on federal politics and his high handed attitude toward
+Congress. I thought some of the things I said were rather fine. But he
+merely looked around at me, at distant intervals, something as I have
+seen a benignant old cat look around to see which kitten was meddling
+with her tail.
+
+By and by I subsided into an indignant silence, and so sat until the end,
+hot and flushed, and execrating him in my heart for an ignorant savage.
+But he was calm. His conversation with those gentlemen flowed on as
+sweetly and peacefully and musically as any summer brook. When the
+audience was ended and we were retiring from the presence, he put his
+hand on my head, beamed down on me in an admiring way and said to my
+brother:
+
+"Ah--your child, I presume? Boy, or girl?"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Mr. Street was very busy with his telegraphic matters--and considering
+that he had eight or nine hundred miles of rugged, snowy, uninhabited
+mountains, and waterless, treeless, melancholy deserts to traverse with
+his wire, it was natural and needful that he should be as busy as
+possible. He could not go comfortably along and cut his poles by the
+road-side, either, but they had to be hauled by ox teams across those
+exhausting deserts--and it was two days' journey from water to water, in
+one or two of them. Mr. Street's contract was a vast work, every way one
+looked at it; and yet to comprehend what the vague words "eight hundred
+miles of rugged mountains and dismal deserts" mean, one must go over the
+ground in person--pen and ink descriptions cannot convey the dreary
+reality to the reader. And after all, Mr. S.'s mightiest difficulty
+turned out to be one which he had never taken into the account at all.
+Unto Mormons he had sub-let the hardest and heaviest half of his great
+undertaking, and all of a sudden they concluded that they were going to
+make little or nothing, and so they tranquilly threw their poles
+overboard in mountain or desert, just as it happened when they took the
+notion, and drove home and went about their customary business! They
+were under written contract to Mr. Street, but they did not care anything
+for that. They said they would "admire" to see a "Gentile" force a
+Mormon to fulfil a losing contract in Utah! And they made themselves
+very merry over the matter. Street said--for it was he that told us
+these things:
+
+"I was in dismay. I was under heavy bonds to complete my contract in a
+given time, and this disaster looked very much like ruin. It was an
+astounding thing; it was such a wholly unlooked-for difficulty, that I
+was entirely nonplussed. I am a business man--have always been a
+business man--do not know anything but business--and so you can imagine
+how like being struck by lightning it was to find myself in a country
+where written contracts were worthless!--that main security, that
+sheet-anchor, that absolute necessity, of business. My confidence left
+me. There was no use in making new contracts--that was plain. I talked
+with first one prominent citizen and then another. They all sympathized
+with me, first rate, but they did not know how to help me. But at last a
+Gentile said, 'Go to Brigham Young!--these small fry cannot do you any
+good.' I did not think much of the idea, for if the law could not help
+me, what could an individual do who had not even anything to do with
+either making the laws or executing them? He might be a very good
+patriarch of a church and preacher in its tabernacle, but something
+sterner than religion and moral suasion was needed to handle a hundred
+refractory, half-civilized sub-contractors. But what was a man to do? I
+thought if Mr. Young could not do anything else, he might probably be
+able to give me some advice and a valuable hint or two, and so I went
+straight to him and laid the whole case before him. He said very little,
+but he showed strong interest all the way through. He examined all the
+papers in detail, and whenever there seemed anything like a hitch, either
+in the papers or my statement, he would go back and take up the thread
+and follow it patiently out to an intelligent and satisfactory result.
+Then he made a list of the contractors' names. Finally he said:
+
+"'Mr. Street, this is all perfectly plain. These contracts are strictly
+and legally drawn, and are duly signed and certified. These men
+manifestly entered into them with their eyes open. I see no fault or
+flaw anywhere.'
+
+"Then Mr. Young turned to a man waiting at the other end of the room and
+said: 'Take this list of names to So-and-so, and tell him to have these
+men here at such-and-such an hour.'
+
+"They were there, to the minute. So was I. Mr. Young asked them a
+number of questions, and their answers made my statement good. Then he
+said to them:
+
+"'You signed these contracts and assumed these obligations of your own
+free will and accord?'
+
+"'Yes.'
+
+"'Then carry them out to the letter, if it makes paupers of you! Go!'
+
+"And they did go, too! They are strung across the deserts now, working
+like bees. And I never hear a word out of them.
+
+"There is a batch of governors, and judges, and other officials here,
+shipped from Washington, and they maintain the semblance of a republican
+form of government--but the petrified truth is that Utah is an absolute
+monarchy and Brigham Young is king!"
+
+Mr. Street was a fine man, and I believe his story. I knew him well
+during several years afterward in San Francisco.
+
+Our stay in Salt Lake City amounted to only two days, and therefore we
+had no time to make the customary inquisition into the workings of
+polygamy and get up the usual statistics and deductions preparatory to
+calling the attention of the nation at large once more to the matter.
+
+I had the will to do it. With the gushing self-sufficiency of youth I
+was feverish to plunge in headlong and achieve a great reform here--until
+I saw the Mormon women. Then I was touched. My heart was wiser than my
+head. It warmed toward these poor, ungainly and pathetically "homely"
+creatures, and as I turned to hide the generous moisture in my eyes, I
+said, "No--the man that marries one of them has done an act of Christian
+charity which entitles him to the kindly applause of mankind, not their
+harsh censure--and the man that marries sixty of them has done a deed of
+open-handed generosity so sublime that the nations should stand uncovered
+in his presence and worship in silence."
+
+ [For a brief sketch of Mormon history, and the noted Mountain Meadow
+ massacre, see Appendices A and B. ]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+It is a luscious country for thrilling evening stories about
+assassinations of intractable Gentiles. I cannot easily conceive of
+anything more cosy than the night in Salt Lake which we spent in a
+Gentile den, smoking pipes and listening to tales of how Burton galloped
+in among the pleading and defenceless "Morisites" and shot them down, men
+and women, like so many dogs. And how Bill Hickman, a Destroying Angel,
+shot Drown and Arnold dead for bringing suit against him for a debt.
+And how Porter Rockwell did this and that dreadful thing. And how
+heedless people often come to Utah and make remarks about Brigham, or
+polygamy, or some other sacred matter, and the very next morning at
+daylight such parties are sure to be found lying up some back alley,
+contentedly waiting for the hearse.
+
+And the next most interesting thing is to sit and listen to these
+Gentiles talk about polygamy; and how some portly old frog of an elder,
+or a bishop, marries a girl--likes her, marries her sister--likes her,
+marries another sister--likes her, takes another--likes her, marries her
+mother--likes her, marries her father, grandfather, great grandfather,
+and then comes back hungry and asks for more. And how the pert young
+thing of eleven will chance to be the favorite wife and her own venerable
+grandmother have to rank away down toward D 4 in their mutual husband's
+esteem, and have to sleep in the kitchen, as like as not. And how this
+dreadful sort of thing, this hiving together in one foul nest of mother
+and daughters, and the making a young daughter superior to her own mother
+in rank and authority, are things which Mormon women submit to because
+their religion teaches them that the more wives a man has on earth, and
+the more children he rears, the higher the place they will all have in
+the world to come--and the warmer, maybe, though they do not seem to say
+anything about that.
+
+According to these Gentile friends of ours, Brigham Young's harem
+contains twenty or thirty wives. They said that some of them had grown
+old and gone out of active service, but were comfortably housed and cared
+for in the henery--or the Lion House, as it is strangely named. Along
+with each wife were her children--fifty altogether. The house was
+perfectly quiet and orderly, when the children were still. They all took
+their meals in one room, and a happy and home-like sight it was
+pronounced to be. None of our party got an opportunity to take dinner
+with Mr. Young, but a Gentile by the name of Johnson professed to have
+enjoyed a sociable breakfast in the Lion House. He gave a preposterous
+account of the "calling of the roll," and other preliminaries, and the
+carnage that ensued when the buckwheat cakes came in. But he embellished
+rather too much. He said that Mr. Young told him several smart sayings
+of certain of his "two-year-olds," observing with some pride that for
+many years he had been the heaviest contributor in that line to one of
+the Eastern magazines; and then he wanted to show Mr. Johnson one of the
+pets that had said the last good thing, but he could not find the child.
+
+He searched the faces of the children in detail, but could not decide
+which one it was. Finally he gave it up with a sigh and said:
+
+"I thought I would know the little cub again but I don't." Mr. Johnson
+said further, that Mr. Young observed that life was a sad, sad thing
+--"because the joy of every new marriage a man contracted was so apt to be
+blighted by the inopportune funeral of a less recent bride." And Mr.
+Johnson said that while he and Mr. Young were pleasantly conversing in
+private, one of the Mrs. Youngs came in and demanded a breast-pin,
+remarking that she had found out that he had been giving a breast-pin to
+No. 6, and she, for one, did not propose to let this partiality go on
+without making a satisfactory amount of trouble about it. Mr. Young
+reminded her that there was a stranger present. Mrs. Young said that if
+the state of things inside the house was not agreeable to the stranger,
+he could find room outside. Mr. Young promised the breast-pin, and she
+went away. But in a minute or two another Mrs. Young came in and
+demanded a breast-pin. Mr. Young began a remonstrance, but Mrs. Young
+cut him short. She said No. 6 had got one, and No. 11 was promised one,
+and it was "no use for him to try to impose on her--she hoped she knew
+her rights." He gave his promise, and she went. And presently three
+Mrs. Youngs entered in a body and opened on their husband a tempest of
+tears, abuse, and entreaty. They had heard all about No. 6, No. 11, and
+No. 14. Three more breast-pins were promised. They were hardly gone
+when nine more Mrs. Youngs filed into the presence, and a new tempest
+burst forth and raged round about the prophet and his guest. Nine
+breast-pins were promised, and the weird sisters filed out again. And in
+came eleven more, weeping and wailing and gnashing their teeth. Eleven
+promised breast-pins purchased peace once more.
+
+"That is a specimen," said Mr. Young. "You see how it is. You see what
+a life I lead. A man can't be wise all the time. In a heedless moment I
+gave my darling No. 6--excuse my calling her thus, as her other name has
+escaped me for the moment--a breast-pin. It was only worth twenty-five
+dollars--that is, apparently that was its whole cost--but its ultimate
+cost was inevitably bound to be a good deal more. You yourself have seen
+it climb up to six hundred and fifty dollars--and alas, even that is not
+the end! For I have wives all over this Territory of Utah. I have
+dozens of wives whose numbers, even, I do not know without looking in the
+family Bible. They are scattered far and wide among the mountains and
+valleys of my realm. And mark you, every solitary one of them will hear
+of this wretched breast pin, and every last one of them will have one or
+die. No. 6's breast pin will cost me twenty-five hundred dollars before
+I see the end of it. And these creatures will compare these pins
+together, and if one is a shade finer than the rest, they will all be
+thrown on my hands, and I will have to order a new lot to keep peace in
+the family. Sir, you probably did not know it, but all the time you were
+present with my children your every movement was watched by vigilant
+servitors of mine. If you had offered to give a child a dime, or a stick
+of candy, or any trifle of the kind, you would have been snatched out of
+the house instantly, provided it could be done before your gift left your
+hand. Otherwise it would be absolutely necessary for you to make an
+exactly similar gift to all my children--and knowing by experience the
+importance of the thing, I would have stood by and seen to it myself that
+you did it, and did it thoroughly. Once a gentleman gave one of my
+children a tin whistle--a veritable invention of Satan, sir, and one
+which I have an unspeakable horror of, and so would you if you had eighty
+or ninety children in your house. But the deed was done--the man
+escaped. I knew what the result was going to be, and I thirsted for
+vengeance. I ordered out a flock of Destroying Angels, and they hunted
+the man far into the fastnesses of the Nevada mountains. But they never
+caught him. I am not cruel, sir--I am not vindictive except when sorely
+outraged--but if I had caught him, sir, so help me Joseph Smith, I would
+have locked him into the nursery till the brats whistled him to death.
+By the slaughtered body of St. Parley Pratt (whom God assail!) there
+was never anything on this earth like it! I knew who gave the whistle to
+the child, but I could, not make those jealous mothers believe me. They
+believed I did it, and the result was just what any man of reflection
+could have foreseen: I had to order a hundred and ten whistles--I think
+we had a hundred and ten children in the house then, but some of them are
+off at college now--I had to order a hundred and ten of those shrieking
+things, and I wish I may never speak another word if we didn't have to
+talk on our fingers entirely, from that time forth until the children got
+tired of the whistles. And if ever another man gives a whistle to a
+child of mine and I get my hands on him, I will hang him higher than
+Haman! That is the word with the bark on it! Shade of Nephi! You don't
+know anything about married life. I am rich, and everybody knows it. I
+am benevolent, and everybody takes advantage of it. I have a strong
+fatherly instinct and all the foundlings are foisted on me.
+
+"Every time a woman wants to do well by her darling, she puzzles her brain
+to cipher out some scheme for getting it into my hands. Why, sir, a
+woman came here once with a child of a curious lifeless sort of
+complexion (and so had the woman), and swore that the child was mine and
+she my wife--that I had married her at such-and-such a time in
+such-and-such a place, but she had forgotten her number, and of course I
+could not remember her name. Well, sir, she called my attention to the
+fact that the child looked like me, and really it did seem to resemble
+me--a common thing in the Territory--and, to cut the story short, I put
+it in my nursery, and she left. And by the ghost of Orson Hyde, when
+they came to wash the paint off that child it was an Injun! Bless my
+soul, you don't know anything about married life. It is a perfect dog's
+life, sir--a perfect dog's life. You can't economize. It isn't
+possible. I have tried keeping one set of bridal attire for all
+occasions. But it is of no use. First you'll marry a combination of
+calico and consumption that's as thin as a rail, and next you'll get a
+creature that's nothing more than the dropsy in disguise, and then you've
+got to eke out that bridal dress with an old balloon. That is the way it
+goes. And think of the wash-bill--(excuse these tears)--nine hundred and
+eighty-four pieces a week! No, sir, there is no such a thing as economy
+in a family like mine. Why, just the one item of cradles--think of it!
+And vermifuge! Soothing syrup! Teething rings! And 'papa's watches' for
+the babies to play with! And things to scratch the furniture with! And
+lucifer matches for them to eat, and pieces of glass to cut themselves
+with! The item of glass alone would support your family, I venture to
+say, sir. Let me scrimp and squeeze all I can, I still can't get ahead as
+fast as I feel I ought to, with my opportunities. Bless you, sir, at a
+time when I had seventy-two wives in this house, I groaned under the
+pressure of keeping thousands of dollars tied up in seventy-two bedsteads
+when the money ought to have been out at interest; and I just sold out
+the whole stock, sir, at a sacrifice, and built a bedstead seven feet
+long and ninety-six feet wide. But it was a failure, sir. I could not
+sleep. It appeared to me that the whole seventy-two women snored at once.
+The roar was deafening. And then the danger of it! That was what I was
+looking at. They would all draw in their breath at once, and you could
+actually see the walls of the house suck in--and then they would all
+exhale their breath at once, and you could see the walls swell out, and
+strain, and hear the rafters crack, and the shingles grind together. My
+friend, take an old man's advice, and don't encumber yourself with a
+large family--mind, I tell you, don't do it. In a small family, and in a
+small family only, you will find that comfort and that peace of mind
+which are the best at last of the blessings this world is able to afford
+us, and for the lack of which no accumulation of wealth, and no
+acquisition of fame, power, and greatness can ever compensate us. Take my
+word for it, ten or eleven wives is all you need--never go over it."
+
+Some instinct or other made me set this Johnson down as being unreliable.
+And yet he was a very entertaining person, and I doubt if some of the
+information he gave us could have been acquired from any other source.
+He was a pleasant contrast to those reticent Mormons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+All men have heard of the Mormon Bible, but few except the "elect" have
+seen it, or, at least, taken the trouble to read it. I brought away a
+copy from Salt Lake. The book is a curiosity to me, it is such a
+pretentious affair, and yet so "slow," so sleepy; such an insipid mess of
+inspiration. It is chloroform in print. If Joseph Smith composed this
+book, the act was a miracle--keeping awake while he did it was, at any
+rate. If he, according to tradition, merely translated it from certain
+ancient and mysteriously-engraved plates of copper, which he declares he
+found under a stone, in an out-of-the-way locality, the work of
+translating was equally a miracle, for the same reason.
+
+The book seems to be merely a prosy detail of imaginary history, with the
+Old Testament for a model; followed by a tedious plagiarism of the New
+Testament. The author labored to give his words and phrases the quaint,
+old-fashioned sound and structure of our King James's translation of the
+Scriptures; and the result is a mongrel--half modern glibness, and half
+ancient simplicity and gravity. The latter is awkward and constrained;
+the former natural, but grotesque by the contrast. Whenever he found his
+speech growing too modern--which was about every sentence or two--he
+ladled in a few such Scriptural phrases as "exceeding sore," "and it came
+to pass," etc., and made things satisfactory again. "And it came to
+pass" was his pet. If he had left that out, his Bible would have been
+only a pamphlet.
+
+The title-page reads as follows:
+
+ THE BOOK OF MORMON: AN ACCOUNT WRITTEN BY THE HAND OF MORMON, UPON
+ PLATES TAKEN FROM THE PLATES OF NEPHI.
+
+ Wherefore it is an abridgment of the record of the people of Nephi,
+ and also of the Lamanites; written to the Lamanites, who are a
+ remnant of the House of Israel; and also to Jew and Gentile; written
+ by way of commandment, and also by the spirit of prophecy and of
+ revelation. Written and sealed up, and hid up unto the Lord, that
+ they might not be destroyed; to come forth by the gift and power of
+ God unto the interpretation thereof; sealed by the hand of Moroni,
+ and hid up unto the Lord, to come forth in due time by the way of
+ Gentile; the interpretation thereof by the gift of God. An
+ abridgment taken from the Book of Ether also; which is a record of
+ the people of Jared; who were scattered at the time the Lord
+ confounded the language of the people when they were building a
+ tower to get to Heaven.
+
+"Hid up" is good. And so is "wherefore"--though why "wherefore"? Any
+other word would have answered as well--though--in truth it would not
+have sounded so Scriptural.
+
+Next comes:
+
+ THE TESTIMONY OF THREE WITNESSES.
+ Be it known unto all nations, kindreds, tongues, and people unto
+ whom this work shall come, that we, through the grace of God the
+ Father, and our Lord Jesus Christ, have seen the plates which
+ contain this record, which is a record of the people of Nephi, and
+ also of the Lamanites, their brethren, and also of the people of
+ Jared, who came from the tower of which hath been spoken; and we
+ also know that they have been translated by the gift and power of
+ God, for His voice hath declared it unto us; wherefore we know of a
+ surety that the work is true. And we also testify that we have seen
+ the engravings which are upon the plates; and they have been shown
+ unto us by the power of God, and not of man. And we declare with
+ words of soberness, that an angel of God came down from heaven, and
+ he brought and laid before our eyes, that we beheld and saw the
+ plates, and the engravings thereon; and we know that it is by the
+ grace of God the Father, and our Lord Jesus Christ, that we beheld
+ and bear record that these things are true; and it is marvellous in
+ our eyes; nevertheless the voice of the Lord commanded us that we
+ should bear record of it; wherefore, to be obedient unto the
+ commandments of God, we bear testimony of these things. And we know
+ that if we are faithful in Christ, we shall rid our garments of the
+ blood of all men, and be found spotless before the judgment-seat of
+ Christ, and shall dwell with Him eternally in the heavens. And the
+ honor be to the Father, and to the Son, and to the Holy Ghost, which
+ is one God. Amen.
+ OLIVER COWDERY,
+ DAVID WHITMER,
+ MARTIN HARRIS.
+
+Some people have to have a world of evidence before they can come
+anywhere in the neighborhood of believing anything; but for me, when a
+man tells me that he has "seen the engravings which are upon the plates,"
+and not only that, but an angel was there at the time, and saw him see
+them, and probably took his receipt for it, I am very far on the road to
+conviction, no matter whether I ever heard of that man before or not, and
+even if I do not know the name of the angel, or his nationality either.
+
+Next is this:
+
+ AND ALSO THE TESTIMONY OF EIGHT WITNESSES.
+ Be it known unto all nations, kindreds, tongues, and people unto
+ whom this work shall come, that Joseph Smith, Jr., the translator of
+ this work, has shown unto us the plates of which hath been spoken,
+ which have the appearance of gold; and as many of the leaves as the
+ said Smith has translated, we did handle with our hands; and we also
+ saw the engravings thereon, all of which has the appearance of
+ ancient work, and of curious workmanship. And this we bear record
+ with words of soberness, that the said Smith has shown unto us, for
+ we have seen and hefted, and know of a surety that the said Smith
+ has got the plates of which we have spoken. And we give our names
+ unto the world, to witness unto the world that which we have seen;
+ and we lie not, God bearing witness of it.
+ CHRISTIAN WHITMER,
+ JACOB WHITMER,
+ PETER WHITMER, JR.,
+ JOHN WHITMER,
+ HIRAM PAGE,
+ JOSEPH SMITH, SR.,
+ HYRUM SMITH,
+ SAMUEL H. SMITH.
+
+And when I am far on the road to conviction, and eight men, be they
+grammatical or otherwise, come forward and tell me that they have seen
+the plates too; and not only seen those plates but "hefted" them, I am
+convinced. I could not feel more satisfied and at rest if the entire
+Whitmer family had testified.
+
+The Mormon Bible consists of fifteen "books"--being the books of Jacob,
+Enos, Jarom, Omni, Mosiah, Zeniff, Alma, Helaman, Ether, Moroni, two
+"books" of Mormon, and three of Nephi.
+
+In the first book of Nephi is a plagiarism of the Old Testament, which
+gives an account of the exodus from Jerusalem of the "children of Lehi";
+and it goes on to tell of their wanderings in the wilderness, during
+eight years, and their supernatural protection by one of their number, a
+party by the name of Nephi. They finally reached the land of
+"Bountiful," and camped by the sea. After they had remained there "for
+the space of many days"--which is more Scriptural than definite--Nephi
+was commanded from on high to build a ship wherein to "carry the people
+across the waters." He travestied Noah's ark--but he obeyed orders in
+the matter of the plan. He finished the ship in a single day, while his
+brethren stood by and made fun of it--and of him, too--"saying, our
+brother is a fool, for he thinketh that he can build a ship." They did
+not wait for the timbers to dry, but the whole tribe or nation sailed the
+next day. Then a bit of genuine nature cropped out, and is revealed by
+outspoken Nephi with Scriptural frankness--they all got on a spree!
+They, "and also their wives, began to make themselves merry, insomuch
+that they began to dance, and to sing, and to speak with much rudeness;
+yea, they were lifted up unto exceeding rudeness."
+
+Nephi tried to stop these scandalous proceedings; but they tied him neck
+and heels, and went on with their lark. But observe how Nephi the
+prophet circumvented them by the aid of the invisible powers:
+
+ And it came to pass that after they had bound me, insomuch that I
+ could not move, the compass, which had been prepared of the Lord,
+ did cease to work; wherefore, they knew not whither they should
+ steer the ship, insomuch that there arose a great storm, yea, a
+ great and terrible tempest, and we were driven back upon the waters
+ for the space of three days; and they began to be frightened
+ exceedingly, lest they should be drowned in the sea; nevertheless
+ they did not loose me. And on the fourth day, which we had been
+ driven back, the tempest began to be exceeding sore. And it came to
+ pass that we were about to be swallowed up in the depths of the sea.
+
+Then they untied him.
+
+ And it came to pass after they had loosed me, behold, I took the
+ compass, and it did work whither I desired it. And it came to pass
+ that I prayed unto the Lord; and after I had prayed, the winds did
+ cease, and the storm did cease, and there was a great calm.
+
+Equipped with their compass, these ancients appear to have had the
+advantage of Noah.
+
+Their voyage was toward a "promised land"--the only name they give it.
+They reached it in safety.
+
+Polygamy is a recent feature in the Mormon religion, and was added by
+Brigham Young after Joseph Smith's death. Before that, it was regarded
+as an "abomination." This verse from the Mormon Bible occurs in Chapter
+II. of the book of Jacob:
+
+ For behold, thus saith the Lord, this people begin to wax in
+ iniquity; they understand not the Scriptures; for they seek to
+ excuse themselves in committing whoredoms, because of the things
+ which were written concerning David, and Solomon his son. Behold,
+ David and Solomon truly had many wives and concubines, which thing
+ was abominable before me, saith the Lord; wherefore, thus saith the
+ Lord, I have led this people forth out of the land of Jerusalem, by
+ the power of mine arm, that I might raise up unto me a righteous
+ branch from the fruit of the loins of Joseph. Wherefore, I the Lord
+ God, will no suffer that this people shall do like unto them of old.
+
+However, the project failed--or at least the modern Mormon end of it--for
+Brigham "suffers" it. This verse is from the same chapter:
+
+ Behold, the Lamanites your brethren, whom ye hate, because of their
+ filthiness and the cursings which hath come upon their skins, are
+ more righteous than you; for they have not forgotten the commandment
+ of the Lord, which was given unto our fathers, that they should
+ have, save it were one wife; and concubines they should have none.
+
+The following verse (from Chapter IX. of the Book of Nephi) appears to
+contain information not familiar to everybody:
+
+ And now it came to pass that when Jesus had ascended into heaven,
+ the multitude did disperse, and every man did take his wife and his
+ children, and did return to his own home.
+
+ And it came to pass that on the morrow, when the multitude was
+ gathered together, behold, Nephi and his brother whom he had raised
+ from the dead, whose name was Timothy, and also his son, whose name
+ was Jonas, and also Mathoni, and Mathonihah, his brother, and Kumen,
+ and Kumenenhi, and Jeremiah, and Shemnon, and Jonas, and Zedekiah,
+ and Isaiah; now these were the names of the disciples whom Jesus had
+ chosen.
+
+In order that the reader may observe how much more grandeur and
+picturesqueness (as seen by these Mormon twelve) accompanied on of the
+tenderest episodes in the life of our Saviour than other eyes seem to
+have been aware of, I quote the following from the same "book"--Nephi:
+
+ And it came to pass that Jesus spake unto them, and bade them arise.
+ And they arose from the earth, and He said unto them, Blessed are ye
+ because of your faith. And now behold, My joy is full. And when He
+ had said these words, He wept, and the multitude bear record of it,
+ and He took their little children, one by one, and blessed them, and
+ prayed unto the Father for them. And when He had done this He wept
+ again, and He spake unto the multitude, and saith unto them, Behold
+ your little ones. And as they looked to behold, they cast their
+ eyes toward heaven, and they saw the heavens open, and they saw
+ angels descending out of heaven as it were, in the midst of fire;
+ and they came down and encircled those little ones about, and they
+ were encircled about with fire; and the angels did minister unto
+ them, and the multitude did see and hear and bear record; and they
+ know that their record is true, for they all of them did see and
+ hear, every man for himself; and they were in number about two
+ thousand and five hundred souls; and they did consist of men, women,
+ and children.
+
+And what else would they be likely to consist of?
+
+The Book of Ether is an incomprehensible medley of if "history," much of
+it relating to battles and sieges among peoples whom the reader has
+possibly never heard of; and who inhabited a country which is not set
+down in the geography. These was a King with the remarkable name of
+Coriantumr,^^ and he warred with Shared, and Lib, and Shiz, and others,
+in the "plains of Heshlon"; and the "valley of Gilgal"; and the
+"wilderness of Akish"; and the "land of Moran"; and the "plains of
+Agosh"; and "Ogath," and "Ramah," and the "land of Corihor," and the
+"hill Comnor," by "the waters of Ripliancum," etc., etc., etc. "And it
+came to pass," after a deal of fighting, that Coriantumr, upon making
+calculation of his losses, found that "there had been slain two millions
+of mighty men, and also their wives and their children"--say 5,000,000 or
+6,000,000 in all--"and he began to sorrow in his heart." Unquestionably
+it was time. So he wrote to Shiz, asking a cessation of hostilities, and
+offering to give up his kingdom to save his people. Shiz declined,
+except upon condition that Coriantumr would come and let him cut his head
+off first--a thing which Coriantumr would not do. Then there was more
+fighting for a season; then four years were devoted to gathering the
+forces for a final struggle--after which ensued a battle, which, I take
+it, is the most remarkable set forth in history,--except, perhaps, that
+of the Kilkenny cats, which it resembles in some respects. This is the
+account of the gathering and the battle:
+
+ 7. And it came to pass that they did gather together all the
+ people, upon all the face of the land, who had not been slain, save
+ it was Ether. And it came to pass that Ether did behold all the
+ doings of the people; and he beheld that the people who were for
+ Coriantumr, were gathered together to the army of Coriantumr; and
+ the people who were for Shiz, were gathered together to the army of
+ Shiz; wherefore they were for the space of four years gathering
+ together the people, that they might get all who were upon the face
+ of the land, and that they might receive all the strength which it
+ was possible that they could receive. And it came to pass that when
+ they were all gathered together, every one to the army which he
+ would, with their wives and their children; both men, women, and
+ children being armed with weapons of war, having shields, and
+ breast-plates, and head-plates, and being clothed after the manner
+ of war, they did march forth one against another, to battle; and
+ they fought all that day, and conquered not. And it came to pass
+ that when it was night they were weary, and retired to their camps;
+ and after they had retired to their camps, they took up a howling
+ and a lamentation for the loss of the slain of their people; and so
+ great were their cries, their howlings and lamentations, that it did
+ rend the air exceedingly. And it came to pass that on the morrow
+ they did go again to battle, and great and terrible was that day;
+ nevertheless they conquered not, and when the night came again, they
+ did rend the air with their cries, and their howlings, and their
+ mournings, for the loss of the slain of their people.
+
+ 8. And it came to pass that Coriantumr wrote again an epistle unto
+ Shiz, desiring that he would not come again to battle, but that he
+ would take the kingdom, and spare the lives of the people. But
+ behold, the Spirit of the Lord had ceased striving with them, and
+ Satan had full power over the hearts of the people, for they were
+ given up unto the hardness of their hearts, and the blindness of
+ their minds that they might be destroyed; wherefore they went again
+ to battle. And it came to pass that they fought all that day, and
+ when the night came they slept upon their swords; and on the morrow
+ they fought even until the night came; and when the night came they
+ were drunken with anger, even as a man who is drunken with wine; and
+ they slept again upon their swords; and on the morrow they fought
+ again; and when the night came they had all fallen by the sword save
+ it were fifty and two of the people of Coriantumr, and sixty and
+ nine of the people of Shiz. And it came to pass that they slept
+ upon their swords that night, and on the morrow they fought again,
+ and they contended in their mights with their swords, and with their
+ shields, all that day; and when the night came there were thirty and
+ two of the people of Shiz, and twenty and seven of the people of
+ Coriantumr.
+
+ 9. And it came to pass that they ate and slept, and prepared for
+ death on the morrow. And they were large and mighty men, as to the
+ strength of men. And it came to pass that they fought for the space
+ of three hours, and they fainted with the loss of blood. And it
+ came to pass that when the men of Coriantumr had received sufficient
+ strength, that they could walk, they were about to flee for their
+ lives, but behold, Shiz arose, and also his men, and he swore in his
+ wrath that he would slay Coriantumr, or he would perish by the
+ sword: wherefore he did pursue them, and on the morrow he did
+ overtake them; and they fought again with the sword. And it came to
+ pass that when they had all fallen by the sword, save it were
+ Coriantumr and Shiz, behold Shiz had fainted with loss of blood.
+ And it came to pass that when Coriantumr had leaned upon his sword,
+ that he rested a little, he smote off the head of Shiz. And it came
+ to pass that after he had smote off the head of Shiz, that Shiz
+ raised upon his hands and fell; and after that he had struggled for
+ breath, he died. And it came to pass that Coriantumr fell to the
+ earth, and became as if he had no life. And the Lord spake unto
+ Ether, and said unto him, go forth. And he went forth, and beheld
+ that the words of the Lord had all been fulfilled; and he finished
+ his record; and the hundredth part I have not written.
+
+It seems a pity he did not finish, for after all his dreary former
+chapters of commonplace, he stopped just as he was in danger of becoming
+interesting.
+
+The Mormon Bible is rather stupid and tiresome to read, but there is
+nothing vicious in its teachings. Its code of morals is unobjectionable
+--it is "smouched" [Milton] from the New Testament and no credit given.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+At the end of our two days' sojourn, we left Great Salt Lake City hearty
+and well fed and happy--physically superb but not so very much wiser, as
+regards the "Mormon question," than we were when we arrived, perhaps.
+We had a deal more "information" than we had before, of course, but we
+did not know what portion of it was reliable and what was not--for it all
+came from acquaintances of a day--strangers, strictly speaking. We were
+told, for instance, that the dreadful "Mountain Meadows Massacre" was the
+work of the Indians entirely, and that the Gentiles had meanly tried to
+fasten it upon the Mormons; we were told, likewise, that the Indians were
+to blame, partly, and partly the Mormons; and we were told, likewise, and
+just as positively, that the Mormons were almost if not wholly and
+completely responsible for that most treacherous and pitiless butchery.
+We got the story in all these different shapes, but it was not till
+several years afterward that Mrs. Waite's book, "The Mormon Prophet,"
+came out with Judge Cradlebaugh's trial of the accused parties in it and
+revealed the truth that the latter version was the correct one and that
+the Mormons were the assassins. All our "information" had three sides to
+it, and so I gave up the idea that I could settle the "Mormon question"
+in two days. Still I have seen newspaper correspondents do it in one.
+
+I left Great Salt Lake a good deal confused as to what state of things
+existed there--and sometimes even questioning in my own mind whether a
+state of things existed there at all or not. But presently I remembered
+with a lightening sense of relief that we had learned two or three
+trivial things there which we could be certain of; and so the two days
+were not wholly lost. For instance, we had learned that we were at last
+in a pioneer land, in absolute and tangible reality.
+
+The high prices charged for trifles were eloquent of high freights and
+bewildering distances of freightage. In the east, in those days, the
+smallest moneyed denomination was a penny and it represented the smallest
+purchasable quantity of any commodity. West of Cincinnati the smallest
+coin in use was the silver five-cent piece and no smaller quantity of an
+article could be bought than "five cents' worth." In Overland City the
+lowest coin appeared to be the ten-cent piece; but in Salt Lake there did
+not seem to be any money in circulation smaller than a quarter, or any
+smaller quantity purchasable of any commodity than twenty-five cents'
+worth. We had always been used to half dimes and "five cents' worth" as
+the minimum of financial negotiations; but in Salt Lake if one wanted a
+cigar, it was a quarter; if he wanted a chalk pipe, it was a quarter; if
+he wanted a peach, or a candle, or a newspaper, or a shave, or a little
+Gentile whiskey to rub on his corns to arrest indigestion and keep him
+from having the toothache, twenty-five cents was the price, every time.
+When we looked at the shot-bag of silver, now and then, we seemed to be
+wasting our substance in riotous living, but if we referred to the
+expense account we could see that we had not been doing anything of the
+kind.
+
+But people easily get reconciled to big money and big prices, and fond
+and vain of both--it is a descent to little coins and cheap prices that
+is hardest to bear and slowest to take hold upon one's toleration. After
+a month's acquaintance with the twenty-five cent minimum, the average
+human being is ready to blush every time he thinks of his despicable
+five-cent days. How sunburnt with blushes I used to get in gaudy Nevada,
+every time I thought of my first financial experience in Salt Lake.
+It was on this wise (which is a favorite expression of great authors, and
+a very neat one, too, but I never hear anybody say on this wise when they
+are talking). A young half-breed with a complexion like a yellow-jacket
+asked me if I would have my boots blacked. It was at the Salt Lake House
+the morning after we arrived. I said yes, and he blacked them. Then I
+handed him a silver five-cent piece, with the benevolent air of a person
+who is conferring wealth and blessedness upon poverty and suffering. The
+yellow-jacket took it with what I judged to be suppressed emotion, and
+laid it reverently down in the middle of his broad hand. Then he began
+to contemplate it, much as a philosopher contemplates a gnat's ear in the
+ample field of his microscope. Several mountaineers, teamsters,
+stage-drivers, etc., drew near and dropped into the tableau and fell to
+surveying the money with that attractive indifference to formality which
+is noticeable in the hardy pioneer. Presently the yellow-jacket handed
+the half dime back to me and told me I ought to keep my money in my
+pocket-book instead of in my soul, and then I wouldn't get it cramped and
+shriveled up so!
+
+What a roar of vulgar laughter there was! I destroyed the mongrel
+reptile on the spot, but I smiled and smiled all the time I was detaching
+his scalp, for the remark he made was good for an "Injun."
+
+Yes, we had learned in Salt Lake to be charged great prices without
+letting the inward shudder appear on the surface--for even already we had
+overheard and noted the tenor of conversations among drivers, conductors,
+and hostlers, and finally among citizens of Salt Lake, until we were well
+aware that these superior beings despised "emigrants." We permitted no
+tell-tale shudders and winces in our countenances, for we wanted to seem
+pioneers, or Mormons, half-breeds, teamsters, stage-drivers, Mountain
+Meadow assassins--anything in the world that the plains and Utah
+respected and admired--but we were wretchedly ashamed of being
+"emigrants," and sorry enough that we had white shirts and could not
+swear in the presence of ladies without looking the other way.
+
+And many a time in Nevada, afterwards, we had occasion to remember with
+humiliation that we were "emigrants," and consequently a low and inferior
+sort of creatures. Perhaps the reader has visited Utah, Nevada, or
+California, even in these latter days, and while communing with himself
+upon the sorrowful banishment of these countries from what he considers
+"the world," has had his wings clipped by finding that he is the one to
+be pitied, and that there are entire populations around him ready and
+willing to do it for him--yea, who are complacently doing it for him
+already, wherever he steps his foot.
+
+Poor thing, they are making fun of his hat; and the cut of his New York
+coat; and his conscientiousness about his grammar; and his feeble
+profanity; and his consumingly ludicrous ignorance of ores, shafts,
+tunnels, and other things which he never saw before, and never felt
+enough interest in to read about. And all the time that he is thinking
+what a sad fate it is to be exiled to that far country, that lonely land,
+the citizens around him are looking down on him with a blighting
+compassion because he is an "emigrant" instead of that proudest and
+blessedest creature that exists on all the earth, a "FORTY-NINER."
+
+The accustomed coach life began again, now, and by midnight it almost
+seemed as if we never had been out of our snuggery among the mail sacks
+at all. We had made one alteration, however. We had provided enough
+bread, boiled ham and hard boiled eggs to last double the six hundred
+miles of staging we had still to do.
+
+And it was comfort in those succeeding days to sit up and contemplate the
+majestic panorama of mountains and valleys spread out below us and eat
+ham and hard boiled eggs while our spiritual natures revelled alternately
+in rainbows, thunderstorms, and peerless sunsets. Nothing helps scenery
+like ham and eggs. Ham and eggs, and after these a pipe--an old, rank,
+delicious pipe--ham and eggs and scenery, a "down grade," a flying coach,
+a fragrant pipe and a contented heart--these make happiness. It is what
+all the ages have struggled for.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+At eight in the morning we reached the remnant and ruin of what had been
+the important military station of "Camp Floyd," some forty-five or fifty
+miles from Salt Lake City. At four P.M. we had doubled our distance and
+were ninety or a hundred miles from Salt Lake. And now we entered upon
+one of that species of deserts whose concentrated hideousness shames the
+diffused and diluted horrors of Sahara--an "alkali" desert. For
+sixty-eight miles there was but one break in it. I do not remember that
+this was really a break; indeed it seems to me that it was nothing but a
+watering depot in the midst of the stretch of sixty-eight miles. If my
+memory serves me, there was no well or spring at this place, but the
+water was hauled there by mule and ox teams from the further side of the
+desert. There was a stage station there. It was forty-five miles from
+the beginning of the desert, and twenty-three from the end of it.
+
+We plowed and dragged and groped along, the whole live-long night,
+and at the end of this uncomfortable twelve hours we finished the
+forty-five-mile part of the desert and got to the stage station where the
+imported water was. The sun was just rising. It was easy enough to
+cross a desert in the night while we were asleep; and it was pleasant to
+reflect, in the morning, that we in actual person had encountered an
+absolute desert and could always speak knowingly of deserts in presence
+of the ignorant thenceforward. And it was pleasant also to reflect that
+this was not an obscure, back country desert, but a very celebrated one,
+the metropolis itself, as you may say. All this was very well and very
+comfortable and satisfactory--but now we were to cross a desert in
+daylight. This was fine--novel--romantic--dramatically adventurous
+--this, indeed, was worth living for, worth traveling for! We would
+write home all about it.
+
+This enthusiasm, this stern thirst for adventure, wilted under the sultry
+August sun and did not last above one hour. One poor little hour--and
+then we were ashamed that we had "gushed" so. The poetry was all in the
+anticipation--there is none in the reality. Imagine a vast, waveless
+ocean stricken dead and turned to ashes; imagine this solemn waste tufted
+with ash-dusted sage-bushes; imagine the lifeless silence and solitude
+that belong to such a place; imagine a coach, creeping like a bug through
+the midst of this shoreless level, and sending up tumbled volumes of dust
+as if it were a bug that went by steam; imagine this aching monotony of
+toiling and plowing kept up hour after hour, and the shore still as far
+away as ever, apparently; imagine team, driver, coach and passengers so
+deeply coated with ashes that they are all one colorless color; imagine
+ash-drifts roosting above moustaches and eyebrows like snow accumulations
+on boughs and bushes. This is the reality of it.
+
+The sun beats down with dead, blistering, relentless malignity; the
+perspiration is welling from every pore in man and beast, but scarcely a
+sign of it finds its way to the surface--it is absorbed before it gets
+there; there is not the faintest breath of air stirring; there is not a
+merciful shred of cloud in all the brilliant firmament; there is not a
+living creature visible in any direction whither one searches the blank
+level that stretches its monotonous miles on every hand; there is not a
+sound--not a sigh--not a whisper--not a buzz, or a whir of wings, or
+distant pipe of bird--not even a sob from the lost souls that doubtless
+people that dead air. And so the occasional sneezing of the resting
+mules, and the champing of the bits, grate harshly on the grim stillness,
+not dissipating the spell but accenting it and making one feel more
+lonesome and forsaken than before.
+
+The mules, under violent swearing, coaxing and whip-cracking, would make
+at stated intervals a "spurt," and drag the coach a hundred or may be two
+hundred yards, stirring up a billowy cloud of dust that rolled back,
+enveloping the vehicle to the wheel-tops or higher, and making it seem
+afloat in a fog. Then a rest followed, with the usual sneezing and
+bit-champing. Then another "spurt" of a hundred yards and another rest at
+the end of it. All day long we kept this up, without water for the mules
+and without ever changing the team. At least we kept it up ten hours,
+which, I take it, is a day, and a pretty honest one, in an alkali desert.
+It was from four in the morning till two in the afternoon. And it was so
+hot! and so close! and our water canteens went dry in the middle of the
+day and we got so thirsty! It was so stupid and tiresome and dull! and
+the tedious hours did lag and drag and limp along with such a cruel
+deliberation! It was so trying to give one's watch a good long
+undisturbed spell and then take it out and find that it had been fooling
+away the time and not trying to get ahead any! The alkali dust cut
+through our lips, it persecuted our eyes, it ate through the delicate
+membranes and made our noses bleed and kept them bleeding--and truly and
+seriously the romance all faded far away and disappeared, and left the
+desert trip nothing but a harsh reality--a thirsty, sweltering, longing,
+hateful reality!
+
+Two miles and a quarter an hour for ten hours--that was what we
+accomplished. It was hard to bring the comprehension away down to such a
+snail-pace as that, when we had been used to making eight and ten miles
+an hour. When we reached the station on the farther verge of the desert,
+we were glad, for the first time, that the dictionary was along, because
+we never could have found language to tell how glad we were, in any sort
+of dictionary but an unabridged one with pictures in it. But there could
+not have been found in a whole library of dictionaries language
+sufficient to tell how tired those mules were after their twenty-three
+mile pull. To try to give the reader an idea of how thirsty they were,
+would be to "gild refined gold or paint the lily."
+
+Somehow, now that it is there, the quotation does not seem to fit--but no
+matter, let it stay, anyhow. I think it is a graceful and attractive
+thing, and therefore have tried time and time again to work it in where
+it would fit, but could not succeed. These efforts have kept my mind
+distracted and ill at ease, and made my narrative seem broken and
+disjointed, in places. Under these circumstances it seems to me best to
+leave it in, as above, since this will afford at least a temporary
+respite from the wear and tear of trying to "lead up" to this really apt
+and beautiful quotation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+On the morning of the sixteenth day out from St. Joseph we arrived at the
+entrance of Rocky Canyon, two hundred and fifty miles from Salt Lake.
+It was along in this wild country somewhere, and far from any habitation
+of white men, except the stage stations, that we came across the
+wretchedest type of mankind I have ever seen, up to this writing. I
+refer to the Goshoot Indians. From what we could see and all we could
+learn, they are very considerably inferior to even the despised Digger
+Indians of California; inferior to all races of savages on our continent;
+inferior to even the Terra del Fuegans; inferior to the Hottentots, and
+actually inferior in some respects to the Kytches of Africa. Indeed, I
+have been obliged to look the bulky volumes of Wood's "Uncivilized Races
+of Men" clear through in order to find a savage tribe degraded enough to
+take rank with the Goshoots. I find but one people fairly open to that
+shameful verdict. It is the Bosjesmans (Bushmen) of South Africa. Such
+of the Goshoots as we saw, along the road and hanging about the stations,
+were small, lean, "scrawny" creatures; in complexion a dull black like
+the ordinary American negro; their faces and hands bearing dirt which
+they had been hoarding and accumulating for months, years, and even
+generations, according to the age of the proprietor; a silent, sneaking,
+treacherous looking race; taking note of everything, covertly, like all
+the other "Noble Red Men" that we (do not) read about, and betraying no
+sign in their countenances; indolent, everlastingly patient and tireless,
+like all other Indians; prideless beggars--for if the beggar instinct
+were left out of an Indian he would not "go," any more than a clock
+without a pendulum; hungry, always hungry, and yet never refusing
+anything that a hog would eat, though often eating what a hog would
+decline; hunters, but having no higher ambition than to kill and eat
+jack-ass rabbits, crickets and grasshoppers, and embezzle carrion from
+the buzzards and cayotes; savages who, when asked if they have the common
+Indian belief in a Great Spirit show a something which almost amounts to
+emotion, thinking whiskey is referred to; a thin, scattering race of
+almost naked black children, these Goshoots are, who produce nothing at
+all, and have no villages, and no gatherings together into strictly
+defined tribal communities--a people whose only shelter is a rag cast on
+a bush to keep off a portion of the snow, and yet who inhabit one of the
+most rocky, wintry, repulsive wastes that our country or any other can
+exhibit.
+
+The Bushmen and our Goshoots are manifestly descended from the self-same
+gorilla, or kangaroo, or Norway rat, which-ever animal--Adam the
+Darwinians trace them to.
+
+One would as soon expect the rabbits to fight as the Goshoots, and yet
+they used to live off the offal and refuse of the stations a few months
+and then come some dark night when no mischief was expected, and burn
+down the buildings and kill the men from ambush as they rushed out.
+And once, in the night, they attacked the stage-coach when a District
+Judge, of Nevada Territory, was the only passenger, and with their first
+volley of arrows (and a bullet or two) they riddled the stage curtains,
+wounded a horse or two and mortally wounded the driver. The latter was
+full of pluck, and so was his passenger. At the driver's call Judge Mott
+swung himself out, clambered to the box and seized the reins of the team,
+and away they plunged, through the racing mob of skeletons and under a
+hurtling storm of missiles. The stricken driver had sunk down on the
+boot as soon as he was wounded, but had held on to the reins and said he
+would manage to keep hold of them until relieved.
+
+And after they were taken from his relaxing grasp, he lay with his head
+between Judge Mott's feet, and tranquilly gave directions about the road;
+he said he believed he could live till the miscreants were outrun and
+left behind, and that if he managed that, the main difficulty would be at
+an end, and then if the Judge drove so and so (giving directions about
+bad places in the road, and general course) he would reach the next
+station without trouble. The Judge distanced the enemy and at last
+rattled up to the station and knew that the night's perils were done; but
+there was no comrade-in-arms for him to rejoice with, for the soldierly
+driver was dead.
+
+Let us forget that we have been saying harsh things about the Overland
+drivers, now. The disgust which the Goshoots gave me, a disciple of
+Cooper and a worshipper of the Red Man--even of the scholarly savages in
+the "Last of the Mohicans" who are fittingly associated with backwoodsmen
+who divide each sentence into two equal parts: one part critically
+grammatical, refined and choice of language, and the other part just such
+an attempt to talk like a hunter or a mountaineer, as a Broadway clerk
+might make after eating an edition of Emerson Bennett's works and
+studying frontier life at the Bowery Theatre a couple of weeks--I say
+that the nausea which the Goshoots gave me, an Indian worshipper, set me
+to examining authorities, to see if perchance I had been over-estimating
+the Red Man while viewing him through the mellow moonshine of romance.
+The revelations that came were disenchanting. It was curious to see how
+quickly the paint and tinsel fell away from him and left him treacherous,
+filthy and repulsive--and how quickly the evidences accumulated that
+wherever one finds an Indian tribe he has only found Goshoots more or
+less modified by circumstances and surroundings--but Goshoots, after all.
+They deserve pity, poor creatures; and they can have mine--at this
+distance. Nearer by, they never get anybody's.
+
+There is an impression abroad that the Baltimore and Washington Railroad
+Company and many of its employees are Goshoots; but it is an error.
+There is only a plausible resemblance, which, while it is apt enough to
+mislead the ignorant, cannot deceive parties who have contemplated both
+tribes. But seriously, it was not only poor wit, but very wrong to start
+the report referred to above; for however innocent the motive may have
+been, the necessary effect was to injure the reputation of a class who
+have a hard enough time of it in the pitiless deserts of the Rocky
+Mountains, Heaven knows! If we cannot find it in our hearts to give
+those poor naked creatures our Christian sympathy and compassion, in
+God's name let us at least not throw mud at them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+On the seventeenth day we passed the highest mountain peaks we had yet
+seen, and although the day was very warm the night that followed upon its
+heels was wintry cold and blankets were next to useless.
+
+On the eighteenth day we encountered the eastward-bound
+telegraph-constructors at Reese River station and sent a message to his
+Excellency Gov. Nye at Carson City (distant one hundred and fifty-six
+miles).
+
+On the nineteenth day we crossed the Great American Desert--forty
+memorable miles of bottomless sand, into which the coach wheels sunk from
+six inches to a foot. We worked our passage most of the way across.
+That is to say, we got out and walked. It was a dreary pull and a long
+and thirsty one, for we had no water. From one extremity of this desert
+to the other, the road was white with the bones of oxen and horses.
+It would hardly be an exaggeration to say that we could have walked the
+forty miles and set our feet on a bone at every step! The desert was one
+prodigious graveyard. And the log-chains, wagon tyres, and rotting
+wrecks of vehicles were almost as thick as the bones. I think we saw
+log-chains enough rusting there in the desert, to reach across any State
+in the Union. Do not these relics suggest something of an idea of the
+fearful suffering and privation the early emigrants to California
+endured?
+
+At the border of the Desert lies Carson Lake, or The "Sink" of the
+Carson, a shallow, melancholy sheet of water some eighty or a hundred
+miles in circumference. Carson River empties into it and is lost--sinks
+mysteriously into the earth and never appears in the light of the sun
+again--for the lake has no outlet whatever.
+
+There are several rivers in Nevada, and they all have this mysterious
+fate. They end in various lakes or "sinks," and that is the last of
+them. Carson Lake, Humboldt Lake, Walker Lake, Mono Lake, are all great
+sheets of water without any visible outlet. Water is always flowing into
+them; none is ever seen to flow out of them, and yet they remain always
+level full, neither receding nor overflowing. What they do with their
+surplus is only known to the Creator.
+
+On the western verge of the Desert we halted a moment at Ragtown. It
+consisted of one log house and is not set down on the map.
+
+This reminds me of a circumstance. Just after we left Julesburg, on the
+Platte, I was sitting with the driver, and he said:
+
+"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would like to
+listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once. When he was
+leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk, that he had an
+engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very anxious to go through
+quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and started off at an awful pace.
+The coach bounced up and down in such a terrific way that it jolted the
+buttons all off of Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through
+the roof of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier--said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile ago.
+But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get you there on
+time'--and you bet you he did, too, what was left of him!"
+
+A day or two after that we picked up a Denver man at the cross roads, and
+he told us a good deal about the country and the Gregory Diggings.
+He seemed a very entertaining person and a man well posted in the affairs
+of Colorado. By and by he remarked:
+
+"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would like to
+listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once. When he was
+leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk, that he had an
+engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very anxious to go through
+quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and started off at an awful pace. The
+coach bounced up and down in such a terrific way that it jolted the
+buttons all off of Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through
+the roof of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier--said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile ago.
+But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get you there on
+time!'--and you bet you he did, too, what was left of him!"
+
+At Fort Bridger, some days after this, we took on board a cavalry
+sergeant, a very proper and soldierly person indeed. From no other man
+during the whole journey, did we gather such a store of concise and
+well-arranged military information. It was surprising to find in the
+desolate wilds of our country a man so thoroughly acquainted with
+everything useful to know in his line of life, and yet of such inferior
+rank and unpretentious bearing. For as much as three hours we listened
+to him with unabated interest. Finally he got upon the subject of
+trans-continental travel, and presently said:
+
+"I can tell you a very laughable thing indeed, if you would like to
+listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once. When he was
+leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk, that he had an
+engagement to lecture at Placerville and was very anxious to go through
+quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and started off at an awful pace. The
+coach bounced up and down in such a terrific way that it jolted the
+buttons all off of Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through
+the roof of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier--said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile ago.
+But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get you there on
+time!'--and you bet you he did, too, what was left of him!"
+
+When we were eight hours out from Salt Lake City a Mormon preacher got in
+with us at a way station--a gentle, soft-spoken, kindly man, and one whom
+any stranger would warm to at first sight. I can never forget the pathos
+that was in his voice as he told, in simple language, the story of his
+people's wanderings and unpitied sufferings. No pulpit eloquence was
+ever so moving and so beautiful as this outcast's picture of the first
+Mormon pilgrimage across the plains, struggling sorrowfully onward to the
+land of its banishment and marking its desolate way with graves and
+watering it with tears. His words so wrought upon us that it was a
+relief to us all when the conversation drifted into a more cheerful
+channel and the natural features of the curious country we were in came
+under treatment. One matter after another was pleasantly discussed, and
+at length the stranger said:
+
+"I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if you would like to
+listen to it. Horace Greeley went over this road once. When he was
+leaving Carson City he told the driver, Hank Monk, that he had an
+engagement to lecture in Placerville, and was very anxious to go through
+quick. Hank Monk cracked his whip and started off at an awful pace. The
+coach bounced up and down in such a terrific way that it jolted the
+buttons all off of Horace's coat, and finally shot his head clean through
+the roof of the stage, and then he yelled at Hank Monk and begged him to
+go easier--said he warn't in as much of a hurry as he was awhile ago.
+But Hank Monk said, 'Keep your seat, Horace, and I'll get you there on
+time!'--and you bet you bet you he did, too, what was left of him!"
+
+Ten miles out of Ragtown we found a poor wanderer who had lain down to
+die. He had walked as long as he could, but his limbs had failed him at
+last. Hunger and fatigue had conquered him. It would have been inhuman
+to leave him there. We paid his fare to Carson and lifted him into the
+coach. It was some little time before he showed any very decided signs
+of life; but by dint of chafing him and pouring brandy between his lips
+we finally brought him to a languid consciousness. Then we fed him a
+little, and by and by he seemed to comprehend the situation and a
+grateful light softened his eye. We made his mail-sack bed as
+comfortable as possible, and constructed a pillow for him with our coats.
+He seemed very thankful. Then he looked up in our faces, and said in a
+feeble voice that had a tremble of honest emotion in it:
+
+"Gentlemen, I know not who you are, but you have saved my life; and
+although I can never be able to repay you for it, I feel that I can at
+least make one hour of your long journey lighter. I take it you are
+strangers to this great thorough fare, but I am entirely familiar with
+it. In this connection I can tell you a most laughable thing indeed, if
+you would like to listen to it. Horace Greeley----"
+
+I said, impressively:
+
+"Suffering stranger, proceed at your peril. You see in me the melancholy
+wreck of a once stalwart and magnificent manhood. What has brought me to
+this? That thing which you are about to tell. Gradually but surely,
+that tiresome old anecdote has sapped my strength, undermined my
+constitution, withered my life. Pity my helplessness. Spare me only
+just this once, and tell me about young George Washington and his little
+hatchet for a change."
+
+We were saved. But not so the invalid. In trying to retain the anecdote
+in his system he strained himself and died in our arms.
+
+I am aware, now, that I ought not to have asked of the sturdiest citizen
+of all that region, what I asked of that mere shadow of a man; for, after
+seven years' residence on the Pacific coast, I know that no passenger or
+driver on the Overland ever corked that anecdote in, when a stranger was
+by, and survived. Within a period of six years I crossed and recrossed
+the Sierras between Nevada and California thirteen times by stage and
+listened to that deathless incident four hundred and eighty-one or
+eighty-two times. I have the list somewhere. Drivers always told it,
+conductors told it, landlords told it, chance passengers told it, the
+very Chinamen and vagrant Indians recounted it. I have had the same
+driver tell it to me two or three times in the same afternoon. It has
+come to me in all the multitude of tongues that Babel bequeathed to
+earth, and flavored with whiskey, brandy, beer, cologne, sozodont,
+tobacco, garlic, onions, grasshoppers--everything that has a fragrance to
+it through all the long list of things that are gorged or guzzled by the
+sons of men. I never have smelt any anecdote as often as I have smelt
+that one; never have smelt any anecdote that smelt so variegated as that
+one. And you never could learn to know it by its smell, because every
+time you thought you had learned the smell of it, it would turn up with a
+different smell. Bayard Taylor has written about this hoary anecdote,
+Richardson has published it; so have Jones, Smith, Johnson, Ross Browne,
+and every other correspondence-inditing being that ever set his foot upon
+the great overland road anywhere between Julesburg and San Francisco; and
+I have heard that it is in the Talmud. I have seen it in print in nine
+different foreign languages; I have been told that it is employed in the
+inquisition in Rome; and I now learn with regret that it is going to be
+set to music. I do not think that such things are right.
+
+Stage-coaching on the Overland is no more, and stage drivers are a race
+defunct. I wonder if they bequeathed that bald-headed anecdote to their
+successors, the railroad brakemen and conductors, and if these latter
+still persecute the helpless passenger with it until he concludes, as did
+many a tourist of other days, that the real grandeurs of the Pacific
+coast are not Yo Semite and the Big Trees, but Hank Monk and his
+adventure with Horace Greeley. [And what makes that worn anecdote the
+more aggravating, is, that the adventure it celebrates never occurred.
+If it were a good anecdote, that seeming demerit would be its chiefest
+virtue, for creative power belongs to greatness; but what ought to be
+done to a man who would wantonly contrive so flat a one as this? If I
+were to suggest what ought to be done to him, I should be called
+extravagant--but what does the sixteenth chapter of Daniel say? Aha!]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Roughing It, Part 2.
+by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
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