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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/7937-8.txt b/7937-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdcdd5b --- /dev/null +++ b/7937-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6698 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Journal of an African Cruiser, by Horatio Bridge + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Journal of an African Cruiser + Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, + Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest + On The West Coast Of Africa + +Author: Horatio Bridge + +Editor: Nathaniel Hawthorne + + +Release Date: April, 2005 [EBook #7937] +This file was first posted on June 2, 2003 +Last Updated: May 22, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. Ellison and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team + + + + + + + + + + +JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER + +Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, +Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest On The West Coast Of Africa. + +By Horatio Bridge + +An Officer Of The U. S. Navy. + + +Edited By Nathaniel Hawthorne. + + +London: Wiley And Putnam, 6, Waterloo Place 1845 + +[Entered At Stationers' Hall.] + + + + +PREFACE. + +The following pages have afforded occupation for many hours, which might +else have been wasted in idle amusements, or embittered by still idler +regrets at the destiny which carried the writer to a region so little +seductive as Africa, and kept him there so long. He now offers them to the +public, after some labor bestowed in correction and amendment, but +retaining their original form, that of a daily Journal, which better +suited his lack of literary practice and constructive skill, and was in +fitter keeping with the humble pretensions of the work, than a +re-arrangement on artistic principles. At various points of the narrative, +however, he has introduced observations or disquisitions from two or three +common-place books, which he kept simultaneously with the Journal; and +thus, in a few instances, remarks are inserted as having been made early +in the cruise, while, in reality, they were perhaps the ultimate result of +his reflection and judgment upon the topics discussed. + +If, in any portion of the book, the author may hope to engage the +attention of the public, it will probably be in those pages which treat of +Liberia. The value of his evidence, as to the condition and prospects of +that colony, must depend, not upon any singular acuteness of observation +or depth of reflection, but upon his freedom from partizan bias, and his +consequent ability to perceive a certain degree of truth, and inclination +to express it frankly. A northern man, but not unacquainted with the slave +institutions of our own and other countries--neither an Abolitionist nor a +Colonizationist--without prejudice, as without prepossession--he felt +himself thus far qualified to examine the great enterprise which he beheld +in progress. He enjoyed, moreover, the advantage of comparing Liberia, as +he now saw it, with a personal observation of its condition three years +before, and could therefore mark its onward or retreating footsteps, and +the better judge what was permanent, and what merely temporary or +accidental. With these qualifications, he may at least hope to have spoken +so much of truth as entirely to gratify neither the friends nor enemies of +this interesting colony. + +The West Coast of Africa is a fresher field for the scribbling tourist, +than most other parts of the world. Few visit it, unless driven by stern +necessity; and still fewer are disposed to struggle against the enervating +influence of the climate, and keep up even so much of intellectual +activity as may suffice to fill a diurnal page of Journal or Commonplace +Book. In his descriptions of the settlements of the various nations of +Europe, along that coast, and of the native tribes, and their trade and +intercourse with the whites, the writer indulges the idea that he may add +a trifle to the general information of the public. He puts forth his work, +however, with no higher claims than as a collection of desultory sketches, +in which he felt himself nowise bound to tell all that it might be +desirable to know, but only to be accurate in what he does tell. On such +terms, there is perhaps no very reprehensible audacity in undertaking the +history of a voyage; and he smiles to find himself, so simply and with so +little labor, acquiring a title to be enrolled among the authors of books! + +APRIL 5, 1845. + + + +LIST OF CONTENTS + + +CHAP. I. + +Departure--Mother Carey's Chickens--The Gulf Stream--Rapid Progress--The +French Admiral's Cook--Nautical Musicians--The sick Man--The Burial at +Sea--Arrival at the Canaries--Santa Cruz--Love and Crime--Island of Grand +Canary--Troglodytes near Las Palmas. + + +CHAP. II. + +Nelson's Defeat at Santa Cruz--The Mantilla--Arrival at Porto +Grande--Poverty of the Inhabitants--Portuguese Exiles at the Cape de +Verds--City of Porto Praya--Author's Submersion--Green Turtle--Rainy +Season--Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + + +CHAP. III. + +Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.--Arrival at Cape Palmas--American +Missionaries--Prosperity of the Catholic Mission--King Freeman, and his +Royal Robe--Customs of the Kroo-People--Condition of Native Women. + + +CHAP. IV. + +Return to Monrovia--Sail for Porto Praya--The Union Hotel--Reminiscences +of Famine at the Cape de Verds--Frolics of Whalemen--Visit to the Island +of Antonio--A Dance--Fertility of the Island--A Yankee Clockmaker--A +Mountain Ride--City of Poverson--Point de Sol--Kindness of the Women--The +handsome Commandant--A Portuguese Dinner. + + +CHAP. V. + +Arrival of the Macedonian--Return to the Coast of Africa--Emigrants to +Liberia--Tornadoes--Maryland in Liberia--Nature of its Government--Perils +of the Bar--Mr. Russwurm--The Grebo Tribe--Manner of disposing of their +Dead. + + +CHAP. VI. + +Settlement of Sinoe--Account of a Murder by the Natives--Arrival at +Monrovia--Appearance of the Town--Temperance--Law-Suits and +Pleadings--Expedition up the St. Paul's River--Remarks on the Cultivation +of Sugar--Prospects of the Coffee-culture in Liberia--Desultory +observations on Agriculture. + + +CHAP. VII + +High Character of Governor Roberts--Suspected Slaver--Dinner on +Shore--Facts and Remarks relative to the Slave-Trade--British +Philanthropy--Original cost of a Slave--Anchor at Sinoe--Peculiarities and +distinctive Characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen--The King of +Appollonia--Religion and Morality among the Natives--Influence of the +Women. + + +CHAP. VIII. + +Palaver at Sinoe--Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen--Palaver at Settra +Kroo--Mrs. Sawyer--Objections to the Marriage of Missionaries--A +Centipede--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Rescue of the Sassy-wood +drinker--Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists. + + +CHAP. IX. + +Palaver with King Freeman--Remarks on the Influence of +Missionaries--Palaver at Rock-Boukir--Narrative of Captain Farwell's +murder--Scene of Embarkation through the Surf--Sail for Little Berebee. + + +CHAP. X. + +Palaver at Little Berebee--Death of the Interpreter and King Ben Cracko +and burning of the Town--Battle with the Natives, and Conflagration of +several Towns--Turkey Buzzards--A Love-Letter--Moral Reflections--Treaty +of Grand Berebee--Prince Jumbo and his Father--Native system of +Expresses--Curiosity of the Natives. + + +CHAP. XI. + +Madeira--Aspect of the Island--Annual races--"Hail Columbia!"--Ladies, +Cavaliers, and Peasants--Dissertation upon Wines--The Clerks of +Funchal--Decay of the Wine-Trade--Cultivation of Pine-Trees--A Night in +the Streets--Beautiful Church--A Sunday-evening Party--Currency of +Madeira. + + +CHAP. XII. + +Passage back to Liberia--Coffee Plantations--Dinner on shore--Character of +Colonel Hicks--Shells and Sentiment--Visit to the Council-chamber--The +New-Georgia Representative--A Slave-ship--Expedition up the St. +Paul's--Sugar Manufactory--Maumee's beautiful grand-daughter--The Sleepy +Disease--The Mangrove-tree. + + +CHAP. XIII. + +The Theatre--Tribute to Governor Buchanan--Arrival at Settra Kroo--Jack +Purser--The Mission School--Cleanliness of the Natives--Uses of the +Palm-tree--Native Money--Mrs. Sawyer--Influence of her character on the +Natives--Characteristics of English Merchant-Captains--Trade of England +with the African Coast. + + +CHAP. XIV. + +American Trade--Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales--Standard of +Commercial Integrity--Dealings with Slave-Traders--Trade with the +Natives--King's "Dash"--Native Commission-Merchants--The Gold Trade--The +Ivory Trade--The "Round Trade"--Respectability of American +Merchant-Captains--Trade with the American Squadron. + + +CHAP. XV. + +Jack Purser's wife--Fever on board--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Strange figure +and equipage of a Missionary--King George of Grand Bassam--Intercourse +with the Natives--Tahon--Grand Drewin--St. Andrew's--Picaninny +Lahoo--Natives attacked by the French--Visit to King Peter--Sketches of +Scenery and People at Cape Lahon. + + +CHAP. XVI. + +Visit from two English Trading-Captains--The invisible King of +Jack-a-Jack--Human sacrifices--French fortresses at Grand Bassam, at +Assinoe, and other points--Objections to the locality of +Liberia--Encroachments on the limits of that Colony--Arrival in +Axim--Sketches of that Settlement--Dixcove--Civilized Natives--An +Alligator. + + +CHAP. XVII. + +Dutch Settlement at El Mina--Appearance of the Town--Cape Coast +Castle--Burial-place of L. E. L.--An English dinner--Festivity on +shipboard--British, Dutch, and Danish Accra--Native wives of Europeans--A +Royal Princess--An Armadillo--Sail for St. Thomas--Aspect of the Island. + + +CHAP. XVIII. + +Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves--Mode of drying Coffee--Black +Priests--Madam Domingo's Hotel--Catering for the Mess--Man swallowed by a +Shark--Letters from home--Fashionable equipage--Arrival at the +Gaboon--King Glass and Louis Philippe--Mr. Griswold--Mr. and Mrs. +Wilson--Character of the Gaboon People--Symptoms of illness. + + +CHAP. XIX. + +Recovery from Fever--Projected Independence of Liberia--Remarks on Climate +and Health--Peril from Breakers--African Arts--Departure for the Cape de +Verds--Man Overboard. + + +CHAP. XX. + +Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea--The Gar-fish--The Booby and the +Mullet--Improvement of Liberia--Its prospects--Higher social position of +its Inhabitants--Intercourse between the White and Colored. Races--A night +on shore--Farewell to Liberia--Reminiscence of Robinson Crusoe. + + +CHAP. XXI. + +Sierra Leone--Sources of its Population--Appearance of the Town and +surrounding Country--Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes--Treatment of +liberated Slaves--Police of Sierra Leone--Agencies for Emigration to the +West Indies--Colored Refugees from the United States--Unhealthiness of +Sierra Leone--Dr. Fergusson--Splendid Church--Melancholy Fate of a Queen's +Chaplain--Currency--Probable Ruin of the Colony. + + +CHAP. XXII. + +Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels--Causes of that +Failure--High character of the Commodore and Commanders--Similar +ill-success of the French Squadron--Success of the English, and +why--Results effected by the American Squadron. + + + + + +JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Departure--Mother Carey's Chickens--The Gulf stream--Rapid Progress--The +French Admiral's Cook--Nautical Musicians--The Sick Man--The Burial at +Sea--Arrival at the Canaries--Santa Cruz--Love and Crime--Island of Grand +Canary--Troglodytes near Las Palmas. + + +_June_ 5,1843.--Towed by the steamer Hercules, we go down the harbor of +New York, at 7 o'clock A.M. It is the fourth time the ship has moved, +since she was launched from the Navy Yard at Portsmouth. Her first +experience of the ocean was a rough one; she was caught in a wintry gale +from the north-east, dismasted, and towed back into Portsmouth harbor, +within three days after her departure. The second move brought us to New +York; the third, from the Navy Yard into the North river; and the fourth +will probably bring us to an anchorage off Sandy Hook. After a hard winter +of four months, in New Hampshire, we go to broil on the coast of Africa, +with ice enough in our blood to keep us comfortably cool for six months at +least. + +At 10 A.M. the steamer cast off, and we anchored inside of Sandy Hook; at +12 Meridian, hoisted the broad pennant of Commodore Perry, and saluted it +with thirteen guns. At 3 P.M. the ship gets under way, and with a good +breeze, stands out to sea. Our parting letters are confided to the Pilot. +That weather-beaten veteran gives you a cordial shake with his broad, hard +hand, wishes you a prosperous cruise, and goes over the side. His life is +full of greetings and farewells; the grasp of his hand assures the +returning mariner that his weary voyage is over; and when the swift pilot +boat hauls her wind, and leaves you to go on your course alone, you feel +that the last connecting link with home is broken. On our ship's deck, +there were perhaps some heart-aches, but no whimpering. Few strain their +eyes to catch parting glimpses of the receding highlands; it is only the +green ones who do that. The Old Salt seeks more substantial solace in his +dinner. It is matter of speculation, moreover, whether much of the misery +of parting does not, with those unaccustomed to the sea, originate in the +disturbed state of their stomachs. + +7.--We are in the Gulf-stream. The temperature of the water is ten degrees +above that of the air. Though the ship is deep, being filled with stores, +and therefore sailing heavily, we are yet taken along eleven knots by the +wind, and two or three more by the current. Swiftly as we fly, however, we +are not quite alone upon the waters. Mother Carey's chickens follow us +continually, dipping into the white foam of our track, to seize the food +which our keel turns up for them out of the ocean depths. Mysterious is +the way of this little wanderer over the sea. It is never seen on land; +and naturalists have yet to discover where it reposes, and where it +hatches its young; unless we adopt the idea of the poets, that it builds +its nest upon the turbulent bosom of the deep. It is a sort of nautical +sister of the fabled bird of Paradise, which was footless, and never +alighted out of the air. Hundreds of miles from shore, in sunshine and in +tempest, you may see the Stormy Petrel. Among the unsolvable riddles which +nature propounds to mankind, we may reckon the question, Who is Mother +Carey, and where does she rear her chickens? + +9.--We are out of the Gulf-stream, and the ship is now rolling somewhat +less tumultuously than heretofore. For four days, we have been blest with +almost too fair a wind. A strong breeze, right aft, has been taking us +more than two hundred and forty miles a day on our course. But the +incessant and uneasy motion of the ship deprives us of any steady comfort. +In spite of all precautions, tables, chairs, and books, have tumbled about +in utter confusion, and the monotony is enlivened by the breaking of +bottles and crash of crockery. As some consolation, our Log Book shows +that we have made more than half of a thousand miles, within the last +forty-eight hours. Land travelling, with all the advantages of railroads, +can hardly compete with the continual diligence of a ship before a +prosperous breeze. + +11.--Spoke an American brig from Liverpool, bound for New York. Though the +boat was called away, and our letters were ready, it was all at once +determined not to board her; and, after asking the captain to report us, +we stood on our course again. The newspapers will tell our friends +something of our whereabouts; or, at least, that on a certain day, we were +encountered at a certain point upon the sea. + +13.--Wind still fair, and weather always fine. We have not tacked ship +once since leaving Sandy Hook, and are almost ready to quarrel with the +continual fair wind. There is nothing else to find fault with, except the +performances of our French cook in the wardroom, who came on board just +before we left New York, and made us believe that we had obtained a +treasure. He told us that he had cooked for a French Admiral. We swore him +to secrecy on that point, lest the Commodore should be disposed to engage +the services of so distinguished an artist for his own table. But our +self-congratulations were not of long continuance. The sugared omelet +passed with slight remark. The beefsteak smothered in onions was merely +prohibited in future. But when, on the second day, the potatoes were +served with mashed lemon-peel, the general discontent burst forth; and we +scolded till we laughed again at the dilemma in which we found ourselves. +Next to being without food, is the calamity of being subjected, in the +middle of the Atlantic, to the diabolical arts of the French Admiral's +cook. At sea, the arrangements of the table are of far more importance +than on shore. There are so few incidents, that one's dinner becomes, what +Dr. Johnson affirmed it always to be, the affair of which a man thinks +oftenest in the course of the day. + +16.--All day, the wind has been ahead, and very light. This evening, a +dead calm is upon the sea; but the sky is cloudless, and the air pure and +soft. All the well are enjoying the fine weather. The commodore and +captain walk the poop-deck; the other officers, except the lieutenant and +young gentlemen of the watch, are smoking on the forecastle, or +promenading the quarter-deck. A dozen steady old salts are rolling along +the gangways; and the men are clustered in knots between the guns, +talking, laughing, or listening to the yarns of their comrades--an +amusement to which sailors are as much addicted as the Sultan in the +Arabian Nights. But music is the order of the evening. Though a band is +not allowed to a ship of our class, there are always good musicians to be +found among the reckless and jolly fellows composing a man-of-war's crew. +A big landsman from Utica, and a dare-devil topman from Cape Cod, are the +leading vocalists; Symmes, the ship's cook, plays an excellent violin; and +the commodore's steward is not to be surpassed upon the tambourine. A +little black fellow, whose sobriquet is Othello, manages the castanets, +and there is a tolerable flute played by one of the afterguard. The +concerts usually commence with sentimental songs, such as "Home, sweet +Home," and the Canadian Boat Song: but the comic always carries off the +palm; "Jim along Josey," "Lucy Long," "Old Dan Tucker," and a hundred +others of the same character, are listened to delightedly by the crowd of +men and boys collected round the fore-hatch, and always ready to join in +the choruses. Thus a sound of mirth floats far and wide over the twilight +sea, and would seem to indicate that all goes well among us. + +But the delicious atmosphere, and the amusements of the ship, bring not +joy to all on board. There are sick men swinging uneasily in their +hammocks; and one poor fellow, whose fever threatens to terminate fatally, +tosses painfully in his cot. His messmates gently bathe his hot brow, and, +watching every movement, nurse him as tenderly as a woman. Strange, that +the rude heart of a sailor should be found to possess such tenderness as +we seldom ask or find, in those of our own sex, on land! There, we leave +the gentler humanities of life to woman; here, we are compelled to imitate +her characteristics, as well as our sterner nature will permit. + +22.--The sick man died last night, and was buried to-day. His history was +revealed to no one. Where was his home, or whether he has left friends to +mourn his death, are alike unknown. Dying, he kept his own counsel, and +was content to vanish out of life, even as a speck of foam melts back into +the ocean. At 11 A.M., for the first time, in a cruise likely to be fatal +to many on board, the boatswain piped "all hands to bury the dead!" The +sailor's corpse, covered with the union of his country's flag, was placed +in the gangway. Two hundred and fifty officers and men stood around, +uncovered, and reverently listened to the beautiful and solemn burial +service, as it was read by one of the officers. The body was committed to +the deep, while the ship dashed onward, and had left the grave far behind, +even before the last words of the service were uttered. The boatswain +"piped down," and all returned to their duties sadly, and with thoughtful +countenances. + +23.--At 4 A.M., the island of Palma and the Peak of Teneriffe are in full +sight, though the lofty summit of the mountain is one hundred miles +distant. + +24.--At 5 A.M., anchored at Santa Cruz, capital of the island of +Teneriffe. The health-officer informed us that we must ride out a +quarantine of eight days. A fine precaution, considering that we are +direct from New York! After breakfast, I went to the mole, to see the +Consular Agent, on duty. While waiting in our boat, we were stared at by +thirty or forty loafers (a Yankee phrase, but strictly applicable to these +foreign vagabonds), of the most wretched kind. Some were dressed in coarse +shirts and trowsers, and some had only one of these habiliments. None +interested me, except a dirty, swarthy boy, with most brilliant black +eyes, who lay flat on his stomach, and gazed at us in silence. His +elf-like glance sparkles brightly in my memory. + +One of the seamen in our boat spoke to the persons on shore in Spanish. I +inquired whether that were his mother-tongue, and learned that he was a +native of Mahon. On questioning him further, I ascertained that he was +concerned in a tragedy of which I had often heard, while on the +Mediterranean station, two or three years ago. A beautiful girl of +sixteen, of highly respectable family, fell in love with a young man, her +inferior in social rank, though of reputable standing. The affair was kept +secret between them. At length, the lover became jealous, and, one +evening, called his mistress out of her father's house, and stabbed her +five or six times. She died instantly, and her murderer fled. It was +believed in Mahon that he was drowned by falling overboard from the vessel +in which he escaped. Nevertheless, that murderer was the man with whom I +was speaking in the boat, now bearing another name, and a common sailor of +our ship. He told me his real name; and I heard, afterwards, that, when +drunk, he had confessed the murder to one of his messmates. + +This incident illustrates what I have often thought, that the private +history of a man-of-war's crew, if truly told, would be full of high +romance, varied with stirring incident, and too often darkened with, deep +and deadly crime. Many go to sea with the old Robinson Crusoe spirit, +seeking adventure for its own sake; many, to escape the punishment of +guilt, which has made them outlaws of the land; some, to drown the memory +of slighted love; while others flee from the wreck of their broken +fortunes ashore, to hazard another shipwreck on the deep. The jacket of +the common sailor often covers a figure that has walked Broadway in a +fashionable coat. An officer sometimes sees his old school-fellow and +playmate taken to the gangway and flogged. Many a blackguard on board has +been bred in luxury; and many a good seaman has been a slaver and a +pirate. It is well for the ship's company, that the sins of individuals do +not, as in the days of Jonas, stir up tempests that threaten the +destruction of the whole. + +The island of Grand Canary is one of the most interesting of the group at +which we have now arrived. The population of its capital, the city of Las +Palmas, is variously estimated at from nine thousand inhabitants, to twice +that number. The streets, however, have none of the bustle and animation +that would enliven an American town, of similar size. Around the city +there is an aspect of great fertility; fields of corn and grain, +palm-trees, and vineyards, occupy the valleys among the hills, and extend +along the shores, twining a glad green wreath about the circuit of the +island. The vines of Canary produce a wine which, two or three centuries +ago, was held in higher estimation than at present, and is supposed by +some to have been the veritable "sack" that so continually moistened the +throat of Falstaff. The very name of Canary is a cheerful one, associated +as it is with the idea of bounteous vineyards, and of those little golden +birds that make music all over the world. + +The high hills that surround the city of Las Palmas are composed of soft +stone, the yielding quality of which has caused these cliffs to be +converted to a very singular purpose. The poorer people, who can find no +shelter above ground, burrow into the sides of the hill, and thus form +caves for permanent habitation, where they dwell like swallows in a +sand-bank. Judging from the number of these excavations, the mouths of +which appear on the hill-sides, there cannot be less than a thousand +persons living in the manner here described. Not only the destitute +inhabitants of Grand Canary, but vagabonds from Teneriffe and the other +islands, creep thus into the heart of the rock; and children play about +the entrances of the caverns as merrily as at a cottage-door: while, in +the gloom of the interior, you catch a glimpse of household furniture, and +women engaged in domestic avocations. It is like discovering a world +within the world. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Nelson's defeat at Santa Cruz--The Mantilla--Arrival at Porto +Grande--Poverty of the inhabitants--Portuguese Exiles at the Cape de +Verds--City of Porto Prayo--Author's submersion--Green Turtle--Rainy +Season--Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + + +_July_ 1.--Ashore at Santa Cruz. The population of the city is reckoned +at six or eight thousand. The streets are clean, and the houses built in +the Spanish fashion. Camels are frequent in the streets. + +The landing at the Mole is generally bad, as Nelson found to his cost. It +is easy to perceive that, even in ordinary times, the landing of a large +party, though unopposed, must be a work of considerable difficulty. How +much more arduous, then, was the enterprise of the great Naval Hero, who +made his attack in darkness, and in the face of a well-manned battery, +which swept away all who gained foot-hold on the shore! The latter +obstacle might have been overcome by English valor, under Nelson's +guidance; but night, and the heavy surf, were the enemies that gave him +his first and only defeat. The little fort, under whose guns he was +carried by his step-son, after the loss of his arm, derived its chief +interest, in my eyes, from that circumstance. The glory of the great +Admiral sheds a lustre even upon the spot where success deserted him. In +the Cathedral of Santa Cruz are to be seen two English flags, which were +taken on that occasion, and are still pointed out with pride by the +inhabitants. I saw them five years ago, when they hung from the walls, +tattered and covered with dust; they are now enclosed in glass cases, to +which the stranger's attention is eagerly directed by the boys who swarm +around him. The defeat of Nelson took place on the anniversary of the +patron-saint of Santa Cruz; a coincidence which has added not a little to +the saint's reputation. It was by no means his first warlike exploit; for +he is said to have come to the assistance of the inhabitants, and routed +the Moors, when pressing the city hard, in the olden time. + +We wandered about the city until evening, and then walked in the Plaza. +Here the ladies and gentlemen of the city promenade for an hour or two, +occasionally seating themselves on the stone benches which skirt the +square. Like other Spanish ladies, the lovely brunettes of Santa Cruz +generally wear the mantilla, so much more becoming than the bonnet. There +are just enough of bonnets worn by foreigners, and travelled Spanish +dames, to show what deformities they are, when contrasted with the +graceful veil. This head-dress could only be used in a climate like that +of Teneriffe, where there are no extremes of heat or cold. It is a proverb +that there is no winter and no summer here. So equable and moderate is the +temperature, that, we were assured, a person might, without inconvenience, +wear either thick or thin clothing, all the year round. With such a +climate, and with a fertile soil, it would seem that this must be almost a +Paradise. There is a great obstruction, however, to the welfare of the +inhabitants, in the want of water. It rains so seldom that the ground is +almost burnt up, and many cattle actually perish from thirst. It is said +that no less than thirty thousand persons have emigrated from the island, +within three years. + +The productions of Teneriffe, for export, are wine and barilla. Of the +first, the greater part is sent to England, Russia and the United States. +About thirty thousand pipes are made annually, of which two thirds are +exported. Little or no wine is produced on the southern slope of the +island. The hills around Santa Cruz are little more than rugged peaks of +naked rock. The scenery is wild and bold, but sterile; and scattered +around are stupendous hills of lava, the products of former volcanic +eruptions, but which have, for ages, been cold and wave-washed. + +14.--Arrived at Porto Grande, in the island of St. Vincent's, one of the +Cape de Verds. The harbor is completely landlocked by the island of St. +Antonio, which stretches across its mouth. Still, there is, at times, a +considerable swell. The appearance of the land is barren, desolate, and +unpromising in the highest degree; and the town is in keeping with the +scenery. Eighty or ninety miserable hovels, constructed of small, loose +stones, in the manner of our stone-fences, stand in rows, with some +pretence of regularity. Besides the Governor and his aid, there are here +five white men, or rather Portuguese (for their claim to white blood is +not apparent in their complexions), viz. the Collector, the American +Consular Agent, a shop-keeper, whose goods are all contained in a couple +of trunks, and two private soldiers. We called to see the Governor, and +were politely received; he offered seats, and did the honors of the place +with dignity and affability. His pay is one dollar per diem. He has five +soldiers under his command, two of them Portuguese, and three native +negroes, one of whom has a crooked leg. + +The people here are wretchedly poor, subsisting chiefly by fishing, and by +their precarious gains from ships which anchor in the port. The Collector +informed me that there had been sixty whale-ships in the harbor, within +the past year. The profits accruing from thence, however, are very +inadequate to the comfortable support of the inhabitants. The adults are +mostly covered with rags, while many of the children are entirely naked; +the cats and dogs (whose condition may be taken as no bad test of the +degree of bodily comfort in the community) are lean and skeleton-like. As +to religion, I saw nothing to remind me of it, except the ruins of an old +church. There has been no priest since the death of one who was drowned, a +few years ago, near Bird Island, a large rock, at the mouth of the harbor. +At the time of this fatal mishap, the reverend father was on a drunken +frolic, in company with some colored women. + +The Cape de Verd Islands derive their name from the nearest point of the +mainland of Africa; they are under the dominion of Portugal, and, +notwithstanding their poverty, furnish a considerable revenue to that +country, over and above the expenses of the Colonial Government. This +revenue comes chiefly from the duties levied upon all imported articles, +and from the orchilla trade, which is monopolized by the Government at +home, and produces 50,000 dollars per annum. Another source of profit is +found in the tithes for the support of the Church, which, in some, if not +all the islands, have been seized by the Government (under a pledge for +the maintenance of the clergy), and are farmed out annually. These islands +supply the Portuguese with a place of honorable exile for officers who may +be suspected of heresy in politics, and hostility to existing +institutions. They are advanced a step in rank, to repay them (and a poor +requital it is) for the change from the delicious climate of Portugal, and +the gaieties of Lisbon, to the dreary solitude, the arid soil, and burning +and fever-laden air of the Cape de Verds. It is a melancholy thought, that +many an active intellect--many a generous and aspiring spirit--may have +been doomed to linger and perish here, chained, as it were, to the rocks, +like Prometheus, merely for having dreamed of kindling the fire of liberty +in their native land. + +22.--We have spent some days at Porto Praya, the capital of St. Jago, the +largest of the Cape de Verd islands; whence we sail to-day. A large part +of the population is composed of negroes and mulattoes, whose appearance +indicates that they are intemperate, dissolute, and vile. The Portuguese +residing here are generally but little better; as may be supposed from the +fact, that most of those who were not banished from Portugal, for +political or other offences, came originally to engage in the slave-trade. + +Going ashore to-day, we beached the boat, and a large negro, with a ragged +red shirt, waded out and took me on his shoulders. There is no position so +absurd, nor in which a man feels himself so utterly helpless, as when thus +dependant on the strength and sure-footedness of a fellow-biped. As we +left the boat, a heavy "roller" came in. The negro lost his footing, and I +my balance, and down we plunged into the surf. My sable friend seemed to +consider it a point of duty to hold stoutly by my legs, the inevitable +tendency of which manoeuvre was to keep my head under water. Having no +taste for a watery death, under these peculiar circumstances, I freed +myself by a vigorous kick, sprang to my feet, and seizing the negro by the +"ambrosial curls," pushed his head in turn under the surf. But seeing the +midshipmen and boat's crew laughing, noiselessly but heartily, at my +expense, the ludicrousness of the whole affair struck me so forcibly that +I joined in their mirth, and waded ashore as fast as possible. An +abolitionist, perhaps, might draw a moral from the story, and say that +all, who ride on the shoulders of the African race, deserve nothing better +than a similar overthrow. Sailed from Porto Praya. The bay of this port is +a good one, except in south-east gales, when the anchorage is dangerous. +The town, called Villa de Praya, contains about two thousand inhabitants +of every shade, the dark greatly predominating. Many vessels from Europe +and the United States, bound to India, Brazil, or Africa, find this a +convenient place to procure water and fresh provisions, and bring, in +return, much money into the city. There are three hundred troops here, +nearly all black, and commanded by forty Portuguese officers. The men are +under severe discipline, are tolerably well dressed, and make a soldierly +appearance. It is said that a St. Jago soldier formerly wore only a cocked +hat, being otherwise in a state of nature; but I cannot pretend to have +seen any instance of this extreme scantiness of equipment. + +23.--Saw a large green turtle asleep on the surface of the water. One of +our boats went alongside of him, and two men attempted to turn him over +with boat-hooks. He struggled successfully, however, to keep himself +"right side up," and, in a few moments, plunged beneath the surface. Once +upon his back, he would have been powerless and a prisoner, and we might +have hoped for the advantage of his presence at our mess-table. + +24.--At noon, the first rain came. It continued heavy and unremitting, for +twenty-four hours, after which there was a glimpse of the blue sky. Two +startling thunder-claps burst over the ship, at about 9 o'clock, A.M. Last +night, at 10, a heavy plunge carried away both our chain bobstays at once, +and all hands were turned up in the rain, to secure the bowsprit. + +The sanitary regulations of the squadron, induced by the commencement of +the rainy season, cause considerable mirth and some growling. One rule is, +that every man shall protect himself with flannel next his person, and at +night shall also wear a cloth-jacket and trowsers. Stoves are placed on +the berth-deck, to dry the atmosphere below. It is a curious fact, that, +in March last, at Portsmouth, N. H., with the thermometer at zero, we were +deprived of stoves the moment the powder came on board; while now in the +month of July, on the coast of Africa, sweltering at eighty degrees of +Fahrenheit, the fires are lighted throughout the ship. + +27.--Continual rain for the last three days. All miserable, but getting +used to it. + +29.--A clear day, and comfortably cool. Wind fair. + +30.--Made land, and saw an English brig of war. Commander Oakes, of the +Ferret, came on board. + +31.--Made Cape Mount. + +_August_ 1.--At 12, meridian, anchored at Cape Mesurado, off the town of +Monrovia. We find at anchor here the U. S. brig Porpoise, and a French +barque, as well as a small schooner, bearing the Liberian flag. This +consists of stripes and a cross, and may be regarded as emblematical of +the American origin of the colony, and of the Christian philanthropy to +which it owes its existence. Thirty or forty Kroomen came alongside. Three +officers of the Porpoise visited us. All are anxious to get back to the +United States. They coincide, however, in saying that, with simple +precautions, the health of this station is as good as that of any other. +They have had only a single case of fever on board; and, in that instance, +the patient was a man who ran away, and spent a night ashore. + +My old acquaintance, Captain Cooper, came on board, and is to be employed +as pilot. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.--Arrival at Cape Palmas--American +Missionaries--Prosperity of the Catholic Mission--King Freeman, and his +royal robe--Customs of the Kroo-people--Condition of native women. + + +_August_ 2.--We were visited by Governor Roberts, Doctor Day, and General +Lewis, the latter being colonial secretary, and military chief of the +settlement. They looked well, and welcomed me back to Liberia with the +cordiality of old friendship. The Governor was received by the commodore, +captain, and officers, and saluted with eleven guns. He and his suite +dined in the cabin, and some of the officers of the Porpoise in the +ward-room. In the evening, we brought out all our forces for the amusement +of our distinguished guests. First, the negro band sang "Old Dan Tucker," +"Jim along Josey," and other ditties of the same class, accompanied by +violin and tambourine. Then Othello played monkey, and gave a series of +recitations. The French cook sang with great spirit and skill. The +entertainments of the evening, as the theatrical bills expressed it, +concluded with Ma Normandie and other beautiful songs and airs well +executed by the French cook, accompanied by Symmes on the violin, and a +landsman on the flute. + +5.--Sailed for Cape Palmas, in company with the Porpoise. + +9.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. We were boarded by Kroo-men, in eight or ten +canoes. While the thermometer stood at 75 or 80 degrees, these naked +boatmen were shivering, and seemed absolutely to suffer with cold; and +such is the effect of the climate upon our own physical systems, that we +find woollen garments comfortable at the same temperature. + +Visited and lunched with Governor Rasswurm. Called on Mr. James, a colored +missionary, now occupying the house of Mr. Wilson, who has lately removed +to Gaboon river. Mr. James presented us with some ebony, and a few Grebo +books. He informed us that the fever had visited him more or less +severely, as often as once in four weeks during seven years. This may +truly be called a feverish life! He is about to remove to Gaboon. + +The Catholic Mission seems to have driven the Presbyterian from the +ground. We called on Mr. Kelly, a Catholic priest from Baltimore, and the +only white man of the Mission at present in Africa. Preparations, however, +have already been made for twenty more, principally French, whose arrival +is expected within a year, and who will establish themselves at different +points along the coast. Mr. Kelly is now finishing a very commodious +house, on a scale of some magnitude, with piazzas around the whole. There +is evidently no lack of money. The funds for the support of the Catholic +mission are derived principally through Lyons, in France; and the +enterprise is said to be under the patronage of the king. The abundant +pecuniary means which the priests have at command, and the imposing and +attractive ceremonies of their mode of worship--so well fitted to produce +an effect on uncultivated natures, where appeals either to the intellect +or the heart would be thrown away--are among the chief causes of their +success. It is said, too, and perhaps with truth, that as many converts +are made, among the natives, by presents, as by persuasion. But no small +degree of the prosperity of the mission must be attributed to the superior +shrewdness and ability of the persons engaged in it--to their skilful +adaptation of their precepts and modes of instruction to the people with +whom they have to deal, and to their employment of the maxims of worldly +policy in aid of their religious views. These qualities and rules of +conduct have characterized the Catholic missionaries in all ages, in all +parts of the world, and in their dealings with every variety of the human +race; and their success has everywhere been commensurate with the +superiority, in a merely temporal point of view, of the system on which +they acted. + +Before returning on board, we called on King Freeman, who received us, +seated on a chair which was placed in front of his house. His majesty's +royal robe was no other than an old uniform frock, which I had given him +three years ago. We accepted the chairs which he offered us, and held a +palaver, while some twenty of his subjects stood respectfully around. He +remembered my former visit to the colony, and appeared very glad to see me +again. His town was nearly deserted, the people having gone out to gather +rice. About the royal residence, and in the vicinity, I saw thirty or +forty cattle, most of them young, and all remarkably small. It is said, +and I believe it to be a fact, that cattle, and even fowls, when brought +from the interior, take the coast-fever, and often perish with it. Certain +it is that they do not flourish. + +11.--King Freeman came on board, dressed in his uniform frock, with two +epaulettes, a redcap, and checked trowsers. He received some powder and +bread from the Commodore, and some trifles from the ward-room. + +12.--Joe Davis brought his son on board to "learn sense." In pursuit of +this laudable object, the young man is to make a cruise with us. The +father particularly requested that his son might be flogged, saying, +"Spose you lick him, you gib him sense!" On such a system, a man-of-war is +certainly no bad school of improvement. + +13.--A delightful day, clear sky, and cool breeze. We sailed from Cape +Palmas yesterday, steering up the coast. + +I have been conversing with young Ben Johnson, one of our Kroomen, on the +conjugal and other customs of his countrymen. These constitute quite a +curious object of research. The Kroomen are indispensable in carrying on +the commerce and maritime business of the African coast. When a Kroo-boat +comes alongside, you may buy the canoe, hire the men at a moment's +warning, and retain them in your service for months. They expend no time +nor trouble in providing their equipment, since it consists merely of a +straw hat and a piece of white or colored cotton girded about their loins. +In their canoes, they deposit these girdles in the crowns of their hats; +nor is it unusual, when a shower threatens them on shore, to see them +place this sole garment in the same convenient receptacle, and then make +for shelter. When rowing a boat, or paddling a canoe, it is their custom +to sing; and, as the music goes on, they seem to become invigorated, +applying their strength cheerfully, and with limbs as unwearied as their +voices. One of their number leads in recitative, and the whole company +respond in the chorus. The subject of the song is a recital of the +exploits of the men, their employments, their intended movements, the news +of the coast, and the character of their employers. It is usual, in these +extemporary strains, for the Kroomen attached to a man-of-war to taunt, +with good-humored satire, their friends who are more laboriously employed +in merchant vessels, and not so well fed and paid. + +Their object in leaving home, and entering into the service of navigators, +is generally to obtain the means of purchasing wives, the number of whom +constitutes a man's importance. The sons of "gentlemen" (for there is such +a distinction of rank among them) never labor at home, but do not hesitate +to go away, for a year or two, and earn something to take to their +families. On the return of these wanderers--not like the prodigal son, but +bringing wealth to their kindred--great rejoicings are instituted. A +bullock is killed by the head of the family, guns are fired, and two or +three days are spent in the performance of various plays and dances. The +"boy" gives all his earnings to his father, and places himself again under +the parental authority. The Krooman of maturer age, on his return from an +expedition of this kind, buys a wife, or perhaps more than one, and +distributes the rest of his accumulated gains among his relatives. In a +week, he has nothing left but his wives and his house. + +Age is more respected by the Africans than by any other people. Even if +the son be forty years old, he seldom seeks to emancipate himself from the +paternal government. If a young man falls in love, he, in the first place, +consults his father. The latter makes propositions to the damsel's father, +who, if his daughter agree to the match, announces the terms of purchase. +The price varies in different places, and is also influenced by other +circumstances, such as the respectability and power of the family, and the +beauty and behavior of the girl. The arrangements here described are often +made when the girl is only five or six years of age, in which case she +remains with her friends until womanhood, and then goes to the house of +her bridegroom. + + Meantime, her family receive the stipulated price, and are responsible +for her good behavior. Should she prove faithless, and run away, her +purchase-money must be refunded by her friends, who, in their turn, have a +claim upon the family of him who seduces or harbors her. If prompt +satisfaction be not made (which, however, is generally the case), there +will be a "big palaver," and a much heavier expense for damages and costs. +If, after the commencement of married life, the husband is displeased with +his wife's conduct, he complains to her father, who either takes her back, +and repays the dowry, or more frequently advises that she be flogged. In +the latter alternative, she is tied, starved, and severely beaten; a mode +of conjugal discipline which generally produces the desired effect. + +Should the wife be suspected of infidelity, the husband may charge her +with it, and demand that she drink the poisonous decoction of sassy-wood, +which is used as the test of guilt or innocence, in all cases that are +considered too uncertain for human judgment. If her stomach free itself +from the fatal draught by vomiting, she is declared innocent, and is taken +back by her family without repayment of the dower. On the other hand, if +the poison begin to take effect, she is pronounced guilty; an emetic is +administered in the shape of common soap; and her husband may, at his +option, either send her home, or cut off her nose and ears. + +There is one sad discrepancy in the moral system of these people, as +regards the virtue of the women. No disgrace is imputed to the wife who +admits the immoral advances of a white man, provided it be done with the +knowledge and consent of her husband. The latter, in whose eyes the white +man is one of a distinct and superior order of beings, usually considers +himself honored by an affair of this nature, and makes it likewise a +matter of profit. All proposals, in view of such a connection, must pass +through the husband; nor, it is affirmed, is there any hazard of wounding +his delicacy, or awakening his resentment, whatever be his rank and +respectability. The violated wife returns to the domestic roof with +undiminished honor, and confines herself as rigidly within the limits of +her nuptial vow, as if this singular suspension of it had never taken +place. + + In spite of the degradation indicated by the above customs, the +Kroo-women are rather superior to other native females, and seem to occupy +a higher social position. The wife first married holds the purse, directs +the household affairs, and rules the other women, who labor diligently for +the benefit of their common husband and master. Their toil constitutes his +wealth. It is usual for a man to live two, three, or four days, with each +of his wives in turn. As old age advances, he loses the control of his +female household, most of the members of which run away, unless he is wise +enough to dispose of them (as usage permits) to his more youthful +relatives. As a Krooman of sixty or seventy often has wives in their +teens, it is not to be wondered at that they should occasionally show a +disposition to rove. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Return to Monrovia--Sail for Porto Praya--The Union Hotel--Reminiscences +of famine at the Cape de Verds--Frolics of Whalemen--Visit to the island +of St. Antonio--A dance--Fertility of the island--A Yankee clock-maker--A +mountain ride--City of Poverson--Point de Sol--Kindness of the women--The +handsome commandant--A Portuguese dinner. + + +_August_ 14.--Passed near Sinoe, a colonial settlement, but did not show +our colors. An English merchant brig was at anchor. Our pilot observed, +that this settlement was not in a flourishing condition, because it +received no great "_resistance_" from the Colonization Society. Of +course, he meant to say, "_assistance_;" but there was an unintentional +philosophy in the remark. Many plants thrive best in adversity. + +Anchored at the river Sesters, and sent a boat ashore. Two canoes paddled +alongside, and their head-men came on board. One was a beautifully formed +man, and walked the deck with a picturesque dignity of aspect and motion. +He had more the movement of an Indian, than any negro I ever saw. Two men +were left in each boat, to keep her alongside, and wait the movements of +their master. They kneel in the boat, and sit on their heels. When a +biscuit is thrown to them, they put it on their thighs, and thence eat it +at their leisure. + +16.--Ashore at Monrovia. The buildings look dilapidated, and the wooden +walls are in a state of decay. Houses of stone are coming into vogue. +There is a large stone court-house, intended likewise for a Legislative +Hall. What most interested me, was an African pony, a beautiful animal, +snow white, with a head as black as ebony. I also saw five men chained +together, by the neck; three colonists and two natives, with an overseer +superintending them. They had been splitting stone for Government. + +A gun from the ship gave the signal for our return. Going on board, we got +under way, and sailed for Porto Praya. + + 20.--For four days, we have had much rain; and I have seldom visited the +deck, except when duty called me. Fortunately, Governor Roberts had lent +me the report of the Committee of Parliament, on the Western Coast of +Africa, the perusal of which has afforded me both pleasant and profitable +occupation. It is an excellent work, full of facts, from men who have +spent years on the coast. + +21.--Wind still favorable. The day is sunny, and all are on deck to enjoy +the air. Damp clothes hang in the rigging to-day, and mouldy boots and +shoes fill the boats. + +24.--We find ourselves again off the harbor of Porto Praya. I landed in +quest of news, and heard of the death of Mr. Legare, and the loss of the +store-ship, at this port. All hands were saved, but with the sacrifice of +several thousand dollars' worth of property, besides the vessel. + +On approaching the shore, three flags are observed to be flying in the +town. One is the consular flag of our own nation; another is the banner of +Portugal; and the third, being blue, white, and blue, is apt to puzzle a +stranger, until he reads UNION HOTEL, in letters a foot long. When last at +Porto Praya, a few friends and myself took some slight refreshment at the +hotel, and were charged so exorbitantly, that we forswore all visits to +the house in future. To-day, the keeper stopt me in the street, and begged +the favor of our patronage. On my representing the enormity of his former +conduct, he declared that it was all a mistake; that he was the master of +the hotel, and was unfortunately absent at the time. I was pleased with +this effrontery, having paid the exorbitant charge into his own hands, not +a month before. It is delightful, in these remote, desolate, and +semi-barbarous regions, to meet with characteristics that remind us of a +more polished and civilized land. + +The streets are hot and deserted, and the town more than ordinarily dull, +as most of the inhabitants are out planting. The court has gone to +Buonavista, on account of the unhealthiness of Porta Praya, at this season +of the year. A few dozen scrubby trees have been planted in the large +square, but, though protected by palings and barrels, have not reached the +height of two feet. In the centre stands a marble monument, possibly +intended for a fountain, but wholly destitute of water. + +25.--The boat went ashore again, and brought off the consul, and some +stores. We then made sail, passing to the windward of all the islands, and +reached our former anchorage at Porto Grande. + +28.--There are one barque and three brigs, all American whalers, in the +harbor of Porto Grande. They have been out from three to six months, and +are here for water, bad though it be, and fresh provisions. Their +inducements to visit this port, are the goodness of the harbor, and the +smallness of the port charges. No consular fee has been paid until now, +when, an agent being appointed, each vessel pays him a perquisite of four +dollars. + +This group of islands is chiefly interesting to Americans, as being the +resort of our whale-ships, to refit and obtain supplies, and of other +vessels trading to the coast of Africa. Little was generally known of +them, however, in America, until 1832, when a long-continued drought +parched up the fields, destroyed the crops, and reduced the whole +population to the verge of death, by famine. Not less than ten thousand +did actually perish of hunger; and the remainder were saved only by the +timely, prompt and bountiful supplies, sent out from every part of the +United States. I well remember the thrill of compassion that pervaded the +community at home, on hearing that multitudes were starving in the Cape de +Verd islands. Without pausing to inquire who they were, or whether +entitled to our assistance, by any other than the all-powerful claim of +wretchedness, the Americans sent vessel after vessel, laden with food, +which was gratuitously distributed to the poor. The supplies were liberal +and unremitted, until the rains returned, and gave the usual crops to the +cultivators. + +Twelve years have passed since that dismal famine; but the memory of the +aid extended by Americans has not yet faded, nor seems likely to fade, +from the minds of those who were succored in their need. I have heard men, +who were then saved from starvation, speak strongly and feelingly on the +subject, with quivering lip and faltering voice. Women, likewise, with +streaming eyes, to this day, invoke blessings on the foreign land that fed +their children, when there was no other earthly help. England, though +nearer, and in more intimate connection with these islands, sent not a +mouthful of food; and Portugal, the mother country, shipped only one or +two small cargoes to be sold; while America fed the starving thousands, +gratuitously, for months. Our consul at Porto Praya, Mr. Gardner, after +making a strong and successful appeal to the sympathies of his own +countrymen, distributed his own stores to the inhabitants, until he was +well-nigh beggared. He enjoys the only reward he sought, in the approval +of his conscience, as well as the gratitude of the community; and America, +too, may claim more true glory from this instance of general benevolence, +pervading the country from one end to the other, than from any victory in +our annals. + +29.--Ashore again. An ox for our ship was driven in from the mountains by +three or four horsemen and as many dogs, who chased him till he took +refuge in the water. A boat now put off, and soon overtaking the tired +animal, he was tied securely. When towed ashore, one rope was fastened +round his horns, and another to his fore-foot, each held by a negro, while +a third took a strong gripe of his tail. In this manner, they led and +drove him along, the fellow behind occasionally biting the beast's tail, +to quicken his motions; until at length the poor creature was made fast to +an anchor on the beach, there to await the butcher. + +There is here a miserable church, but no priest. Passing the edifice +to-day, I saw seven or eight women at their devotions. Instead of +kneeling, they were seated, with their chins resting on their knees, on +the shady side of the church. + +30.--The crews of the whale-ships, when ashore, occasionally give no +little trouble to the colonial police. This evening, one of their sailors +came up to us, quite intoxicated, and bleeding from a hurt in his head. He +was bent upon vengeance for his wound, but puzzled how to get it; inasmuch +as a female hand had done the mischief, by cutting his head open with a +bottle. His chivalry would not allow him to strike a woman; nor could he +find any man who would acknowledge himself her relative. In this dilemma, +he was raving through the little village, accompanied by several of his +brother whale-men, mostly drunk, and ready for a row. The Portuguese +officer on duty called out the guard, consisting of two negroes with fixed +bayonets, and caused them to march back and forth in the street. Fifty +paces in the village would bring them to the country; when the detachment +came to the right about, and retraced its steps. These two negroes formed +precisely two-fifths of the regular military force at Porto Grande; but, +besides this formidable host, there are some thirty officers and soldiers +of the National Guard, comprising all the negro population able to bear +clubs. + +The women here have a peculiar mode of carrying children, when two or +three years old. The child sits astride of the mother's left hip, clinging +with hands and feet, and partially supported by her left arm. The little +personage being in a state of total nudity, and of course very slippery, +this is doubtless the most convenient method that could be adopted. + +The gait of the women is remarkably free and unembarrassed. With no +constraint of stays or corsets, and often innocent of any covering, the +shoulders have full play, and the arms swing more than I have ever seen +those of men, in our own country. Their robes are neither too abundant, +nor too tight, to prevent the exhibition of a very martial stride. The +scanty clothing worn here is owing partly, but not entirely, to the warmth +of the climate. Another cogent reason is the poverty of the inhabitants; +so, at least, I infer from the continual petitions for clothes, and from +remarks like the following, made to me by a mulatto woman:--"You very good +man, you got plenty clothes, plenty shirt." + +_September_ 3.--The Cornelia, of New Bedford, came in and anchored. She +has been out fifteen months, and has only 400 barrels of oil. + +4.--Left the ship in the launch on an expedition to the neighboring island +of St. Antonio; being despatched by the Commodore to procure information +as to the facilities for anchoring ships, and obtaining water and +refreshments. Our boat was sloop-rigged, and carried three officers, a +passenger, and ten men. At 11 A.M. we "sheeted home," and stood out of the +harbor with a fair breeze, and all canvass spread: but, within an hour, +the wind freshened to a gale, and compelled us to take in everything but a +close reefed mainsail. The sea being rough, and the weather squally, our +boat took in more water than was either agreeable or safe, until we +somewhat improved matters by constructing a temporary forecastle of +tarpaulins. Finding it impossible, however, to contend against wind and +current, we bore up for an anchorage called Santa Cruz. This was formerly +a notorious haunt for pirates; but no vestige of a settlement remains, +save the ruins of an old stone house, which may probably have been the +theatre of wild and bloody incidents, in by-gone years. The serrated hills +are grey and barren, and the surrounding country shows no verdure. +Anchoring here, we waited several hours for the wind to moderate, and +tried to get such sleep as might perchance be caught in an unsteady boat. + +By great diligence in working against wind and current, we succeeded in +reaching Genella at 9 o'clock in the evening of the second day. Our +mulatto pilot, Manuel Quatrine, whistled shrilly through his fingers; and, +after a brief delay, the response of a similar whistle reached our ears +from shore. A conversation was sustained for some moments, by means of +shouts to-and-fro in Portuguese; a man then swam off to reconnoitre; and, +on his return, the people launched a canoe and carried us ashore, weary +enough of thirty-six hours' confinement in an open boat. We took up our +quarters in the house of a decent negro, who seemed to be the head man of +the village, and, after eating such a supper as the place could supply, +sallied out to give the women an opportunity of preparing our beds. + +Meanwhile, the pilot had not been idle. Though a married man, and the +father of six children, he was a gay Lothario, and a great favorite with +the sex; he could sing, dance, and touch the guitar with infinite spirit, +and tolerable skill. Being well known in the village, it is not surprising +that the arrival of so accomplished a personage should have disturbed the +slumbers of the inhabitants. At ten o'clock, a dance was arranged before +the door of one of the huts. The dark-skinned maidens, requiring but +little time to put on their ball-costume, came dropping in, until, before +midnight, there were thirty or forty dancers on foot. The figures were +compounded of the contra-dance and reel, with some remarkable touches of +the Mandingo balance. The music proceeded from one or two guitars, which, +however, were drowned a great part of the time, by the singing of the +girls and the clapping of each individual pair of hands in the whole +party. A calabash of sour wine, munificently bestowed by a spectator, +increased the fun, and it continued to wax higher and more furious, as the +night wore away. Our little pilot was, throughout, the leader of the +frolic, and acquitted himself admirably. His nether garments having +received serious detriment in the voyage, he borrowed a large heavy +pea-jacket, to conceal the rents, and in this garb danced for hours with +the best, in a sultry night. Long before the festivity was over, my +companions and myself stretched ourselves on a wide bag of straw, and fell +asleep, lulled by the screaming of the dancers. + +The next morning we were early on foot, and looked around us with no small +interest. The village is situated at the point where a valley opens upon +the shore. The sides of this vale are steep, and, in many places, high, +perpendicular, and rocky. Every foot of earth is cultivated; and where the +natural inclination of the hill is too great to admit of tillage, stone +walls are built to sustain terraces, which rise one over another like +giant steps to the mountain-tops. It was the beginning of harvest, and the +little valley presented an appearance of great fertility. Corn, bananas, +figs, guavas, grapes, oranges, sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, and many other +fruits and vegetables, are raised in abundance. The annual vintage in this +and a neighboring valley, appertaining to the same parish, amounts to +about seventy-five pipes of wine. It is sour and unpalatable, not unlike +hard-cider and water. When a cultivator first tries his wine, it is a +custom of the island for him to send notice to all his acquaintances, who +invariably come in great force, each bringing a piece of salt-fish to keep +his thirst alive. Not unfrequently, the whole produce of the season is +exhausted by a single carouse. + +The people are all negroes and mulattoes. Male and female, they are very +expert swimmers, and are often in the habit of swimming out to sea, with a +basket or notched stick to hold their fish; and thus they angle for hours, +resting motionless on the waves, unless attacked by a shark. In this +latter predicament, they turn upon their backs, and kick and splash until +the sea-monster be frightened away. They appear to be a genial and +pleasant-tempered race. As we walked through the village, they saluted us +with "Blessed be the name of the Lord!" Whether this expression (a +customary courtesy of the islanders) were mere breath, or proceeded out of +the depths of the heart, is not for us to judge; but, at all events, heard +in so wild and romantic a place, it made a forcible impression on my mind. +When we were ready to depart, all the villagers came to the beach, with +whatever commodities they were disposed to offer for sale; a man carrying +a squealing pig upon his shoulders; women with fruits and fowls; girls +with heavy bunches of bananas or bundles of cassada on their heads; and +boys, with perhaps a single egg. Each had something, and all lingered on +the shore until our boat was fairly off. + +Five or six miles further, we landed at Paolo, where reside several +families who regard themselves as the aristocracy of St. Antonio, on the +score of being connected with Señor Martinez, the great man of these +islands. Their houses are neatly built, and the fields and gardens well +cultivated. They received us hospitably, principally because one of our +party was a connection of the family. I was delighted with an exhibition +of feeling on the part of an old negro servant-woman. She came into the +parlor, sat down at the feet of our companion, embraced his knees, and +looked up in his face with a countenance full of joy, mingled with respect +and confidence. We saw but two ladies at this settlement. One was a matron +with nine children; the other a dark brunette, very graceful and pleasing, +with the blackest eyes and whitest teeth in the world. She wore a shawl +over the right shoulder and under the left arm, arranged in a truly +fascinating manner. + +The poorer classes in the vicinity are nearly all colored, and mostly +free. They work for eight or ten cents a day, living principally on fruit +and vegetables, and are generally independent, because their few wants are +limited to the supply. The richest persons live principally within +themselves, and derive their meats, vegetables, fruits, wine, brandy, +sugar, coffee, oil, and most other necessaries and luxuries, from their +own plantations. One piece of furniture, however, to be seen in several of +the houses, was evidently not the manufacture of the island, but an export +of Yankee-land. It was the wooden clock, in its shining mahogany case, +adorned with bright red and yellow pictures of Saints and the Virgin, to +suit the taste of good Catholics. It might have been fancied that the +renowned Sam Slick, having glutted all other markets with his wares, had +made a voyage to St. Antonio. Nor did they lack a proper artist to keep +the machine in order. We met here a person whom we at first mistook for a +native, so identical were his manners and appearance with those of the +inhabitants; until, in conversation, we found him to be a Yankee, who had +run away from a whale-ship, and established himself as a clock and +watch-maker. + +After a good night's rest, another officer and myself left Paolo, early, +for a mountain ride. The little pilot led the way on a donkey; my friend +followed on a mule, and I brought up the rear on horseback. We began to +ascend, winding along the rocky path, one by one, there being no room to +ride two abreast. The road had been cut with much labor, and, in some +places, was hollowed out of the side of the cliff, thus forming a gallery +of barely such height and width as to admit the passage of a single +horseman, and with a low wall of loose stones between the path and the +precipice. At other points, causeways of small stones and earth had been +built up, perhaps twenty feet high, along the top of which ran the path. +On looking at these places from some projecting point, it made us shudder +to think that we had just passed, where the loosening of a single one of +those small stones might have carried us down hundreds of feet, to certain +destruction. The whole of the way was rude and barren. Here and there a +few shrubs grew in the crevices of the rocks, or wild flowers, of an +aspect strange to our eyes, wasted their beauty in solitude; and the small +orchilla weed spread itself moss-like over the face of the cliff. At one +remarkable point, the path ran along the side of the precipice, about +midway of its height. Above, the rock rose frowningly, at least five +hundred feet over our heads. Below, it fell perpendicularly down to the +beach. The roar of the sea did not reach us, at our dizzy height, and the +heavy surf-waves, in which no boat could live, seemed to kiss the shore as +gently as the ripple of a summer-lake. This was the most elevated point of +the road, which thence began to descend; but the downward track was as +steep and far more dangerous. At times, the animals actually slid down +upon their haunches. In other places, they stept from stone to stone, down +steep descents, where the riders were obliged to lie backwards flat upon +the cruppers. + +Over all these difficulties, our guide urged his donkey gaily and +unconcernedly. As for myself, though I have seen plenty of rough riding, +and am as ready as most men to follow, if not to lead, I thought it no +shame to dismount more than once. The rolling of a stone, or the parting +of stirrup, girth, or crupper, would have involved the safety of one's +neck. Nor did the very common sight of wooden crosses along the path, +indicating sudden death by accident or crime, tend to lessen the sense of +insecurity. The frequent casualties among these precipitous paths, +together with the healthfulness of the climate, have made it a proverb, +that it is a natural death, at St. Antonio, to be dashed to pieces on the +rocks. But such was not our fate. We at length reached the sea-shore, and +rode for a mile along the beach to the city of Poverson, before entering +which metropolis, it was necessary to cross a space of level, sandy +ground, about two hundred yards in extent. Here the little pilot suddenly +stuck his heels into the sides of his donkey, and dashed onward at a +killing pace; while mule and horse followed hard upon his track, to the +great admiration of ragamuffins, who had assembled to witness the entrée +of the distinguished party. + +Poverson is the capital of the island, and contains about two thousand +inhabitants, who, with few exceptions, are people of color. The streets +are crooked and narrow, and the houses mean. We called upon the military +and civil Governors, and, after accepting an invitation to dine with the +former, left the place for a further expedition. Passing over a shallow +river, in which a number of women and girls were washing clothes, we +ascended a hill so steep as to oblige us to dismount, and from the summit +of which we had a fine view of the rich valley beneath. It is by far the +most extensive tract of cultivated land that we have seen in the island, +and is improved to its utmost capacity. We thence rode three miles over a +path of the same description as before, and arrived at the village and +port of Point-de-Sol. The land about this little town is utterly barren, +and the inhabitants are dependent on Poverson for food, with the exception +of fish. A custom-house, a single store, a church, and some twenty houses +of fishermen, comprise all the notable characteristics of the principal +seaport of the island. + +It was a part of our duty to make an examination of the harbor, for which +purpose we needed a boat. Two were hauled up on the beach; but the +smallest would have required the power of a dozen men to launch +her;--whereas, the fishermen being absent in their vocation, our party of +three, and a big boy at the store, comprised our whole available masculine +strength. The aid of woman, however, is seldom sought in vain; nor did it +fail us now. Old and young, matron and maid, they all sallied forth to +lend a hand, and, with such laughing and screaming as is apt to attend +feminine efforts, enabled us to launch the boat. In spite of their patois +of bad Portuguese, we contrived to establish a mutual understanding. A +fine, tall girl, with a complexion of deep olive, clear, large eyes, and +teeth beautifully white and even, stood by my side; and, like the Ancient +Mariner and his sister's son, we pulled together. She was strong, and, as +Byron says, "lovely in her strength." This difficulty surmounted, we rowed +round the harbor, made our examination, and returned to the beach, where +we again received the voluntary assistance of the women, in dragging the +boat beyond the reach of the waves. We now adjourned to the store, in +order to requite their kindness by a pecuniary offering. Each of our fair +friends received two large copper coins, together equal to nine cents, and +were perfectly satisfied, as well they might be--for it was the price of a +day's work. Two or three individuals, moreover, "turned double corners," +and were paid twice; and it is my private belief that the tall beauty +received her two coppers three times over. + +After a lunch of fried plantains and eggs, we rode back to Poverson. On +the way, we met several persons of both sexes with burdens on their heads, +and noticed that our guide frequently accosted them with a request for a +pinch of snuff. With few exceptions, a horn or piece of bone was produced, +containing a fine yellow snuff of home-manufacture, which, instead of +being taken between the thumb and finger, was poured into the palm of the +hand, and thence conveyed to the nose. Arriving at the city, we proceeded +at once to the house of the Commandant, and in a little time were seated +at dinner. + +Our host was fitted by nature to adorn a far more brilliant position than +that which he occupied, as the petty commander of a few colored soldiers, +in a little island of the torrid zone. He was slightly made, but perfectly +proportioned, with a face of rare beauty, and an expression at once noble +and pleasing. His eyes were large, and full of a dark light; his black +hair and moustache were trimmed with a care that showed him not insensible +of his personal advantages; as did likewise his braided jacket, fitting so +closely as to set off his fine figure to the best effect. His manners were +in a high degree polished and graceful. One of the guests, whom he had +invited to meet us, understood English; and the conversation was sustained +in that language, and in Spanish. The dinner was cooked and served in the +Portuguese style; it went off very pleasantly, and was quite as good as +could be expected at the house of a bachelor, in a place so seldom visited +by strangers. Each of the Portuguese gentlemen gave a sentiment, prefaced +by a short complimentary speech; and our party, of course, reciprocated in +little speeches of the same nature. The Commandant did not fail to express +the gratitude due from the people of the Cape de Verd islands to America, +for assistance in the hour of need. Time did not permit us to remain long +at table, and we took leave, highly delighted with our entertainment. + +Mounting again, we rode out of town more quietly than we had entered it. A +sergeant was drilling some twenty negro soldiers in marching and wheeling. +His orders were given in a quick, loud tone, and enforced by the +occasional application of smart blows of a rattan to the shoulders of his +men. Suspecting that the blows fell thicker because we were witnesses of +his discipline, it seemed a point of humanity to hasten forward; +especially as the approach of night threatened to make our journey still +more perilous than before. After riding about three miles, we met two +well-dressed mulatto women on donkeys, accompanied by their cavaliers. Of +course, we allowed the ladies to pass between us and the rock; a matter of +no slight courtesy in such a position, where there was a very +uncomfortable hazard of being jostled headlong down the precipice. We +escaped, however, and spurring onward through the gloom of night, passed +unconsciously over several rough spots where we had dismounted in the +morning. The last mile of our mountain-ride was lighted by the moon; and, +as we descended the last hill, the guide gave a shrill whistle, to which +the boat's crew responded with three cheers for our return. + +A good night's rest relieved us of our fatigue. The following morning, +with a fair breeze and a six hours' sail, we reached our floating-home, +and have ever since entertained the mess-table with the "yarn" of our +adventures; until now the subject is beginning to be worn thread-bare. +But, as the interior of the island of St. Antonio is one of the few +regions of the earth as yet uncelebrated by voyagers and tourists, I +cannot find in my heart to spare the reader a single sentence of the +foregoing narrative. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Arrival of the Macedonian--Return to the Coast of Africa--Emigrants to +Liberia--Tornadoes--Maryland in Liberia--Nature of its Government--Perils +of the Bar--Mr. Russwurm--The Grebo Tribe--Manner of disposing of their +Dead. + + +_September_ 9.--Weighed anchor, and stood out to sea. At 8 o'clock A.M., +made the frigate Macedonian. She saluted the broad pennant, and both ships +bore up for Porto Grande, where we anchored, and read the news from home. + +11.--The Commodore left the ship, and hoisted his broad pennant on board +the Macedonian. + +16.--Sailed at 6 o'clock P.M., for Porto Praya. + +17.--Anchored at Porto Praya, where we find the Decatur, which arrived +yesterday, after a passage of forty-five days from Norfolk. + +22.--Sailed in the evening for the coast. + +_October_ 7.--Off Cape Mount. + +8.--Ashore at Monrovia. It being Sunday, we attended the Methodist Church. +Mr. Teage, editor of the Liberia Herald, preached an appropriate and +well-written discourse, on occasion of admitting three men and a woman to +church-membership. One of the males was a white, who had married a colored +woman in America, and came out to the colony with Mr. McDonough's people, +some time ago. His wife being dead, he has married another woman of color, +and is determined to live and die here. + +10.--Dined with the Governor. Visited the house of a poor colonist, a +woman with two children and no husband. She endeavors to support her +family by washing. Two or three, other women of the neighborhood dropped +in. It is said that the proportion of female emigrants to males is as +three and a half to one. Unless it be expected that these women are to +work in the fields, it is difficult to imagine how they are to earn a +subsistence. A little chance washing and sewing, not enough to employ one +in ten, is all they have to depend upon. The consequence is, that every +person, of even moderate means of living, has two or three women to feed +and clothe. They do not need their services, but cannot let them starve. +This is one of the drawbacks upon Colonization. + +Even the able-bodied men are generally unfit for promoting the prosperity +of the colony. A very large proportion of them are slaves, just liberated. +Accustomed to be ruled and taken care of by others, they are no better +than mere children, as respects the conduct and economy of life. In +America, their clothes, food, medicines, and all other necessaries, have +been furnished without a thought on their own part; and when sent to +Liberia, with high notions of freedom and exemption from labor (ideas +which with many are synonymous), they prove totally inadequate to sustain +themselves. I perceive, in Colonization reports, that the owners of slaves +frequently offer to liberate them, on condition of their being sent to +Liberia; and that the Society has contracted debts, and embarrassed itself +in various ways, rather than let such offers pass. In my opinion, many of +the slaves, thus offered, are of little value to the donors, and of even +less to the cause of Colonization. Better to discriminate carefully in the +selection of emigrants, than to send out such numbers of the least +eligible class, to become burdens upon the industrious and intelligent, +who might otherwise enjoy comfort and independence. Many a colonist, at +this moment, sacrifices his interest to his humanity, and feels himself +kept back in life by the urgent claims of compassion. + +The Society allows to new emigrants provisions for six months. After that +period, if unable to take care of themselves, they must either starve, or +be supported by the charitable. Fifty young or middle-aged men, who had +been accustomed to self-guidance in America, would do more to promote the +prosperity of the colony, than five hundred such emigrants as are usually +sent out. The thievish propensity of many of the poor and indolent +colonists is much complained of by the industrious. On this account, more +than any other, it is difficult to raise stock. The vice has been acquired +in America, and is not forgotten in Africa. + +13.--A rainy morning. Last night we were all roused from sleep by the sea +coming into the starboard air-ports. We of the larboard side laughed at +the misfortune of our comrades, and closed our own ports, without taking +the precaution to screw them in. Half an hour afterwards, a very heavy +swell assailed us on the larboard, beat in all the loose ports, and +deluged the rooms. I found myself suddenly awakened and cooled by a +cataract of water pouring over me. Out jumped the larboard sleepers, in +dripping night-gear, and shouted lustily for lights, buckets, and swabs; +while the starboard gentlemen laughed long and loud, in their turn. + +14.--Sailed for the leeward. + +17.--Beautiful weather. This afternoon all hands were called to shorten +sail, in those earnest, startling tones, which are prompted by the sense +of danger alone. Every man sprang to his station with the instinctive +readiness of disciplined seamen. The idlers were all on deck, and looked +about for the cause. Had a man fallen overboard? No! Nor was there any +particular appearance of a squall. But the earnest gaze of the commander +and a passenger, towards the shore, drew all eyes in the same direction; +and, behold! a smoke was seen rising from the land, which had been +mistaken for the cloud that precedes the tornado. It is necessary to +prepare for many blows that do not come. In the tornado-seasons (which may +be estimated at four or five weeks, about the months of March and +November), there are frequent appearances of squalls, sometimes as often +as twice or thrice in twenty-four hours. The horizon grows black, with +very much the aspect of a thunder-shower in America. Generally, the +violence of the wind does not equal the apprehensions always entertained. +We could have carried royals through nineteen out of twenty of the +tornadoes that assailed our ship; but the twentieth might have taken the +sticks out of us. The harmless, as well as the heavy tornadoes, have the +same black and threatening aspect. They usually blow from the land, +although once, while at anchor, we experienced one from seaward. + +19.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. This colony is independent, of Liberia +proper, and is under the jurisdiction and patronage of the Maryland State +Colonization Society. Its title is Maryland in Liberia. The local +government is composed of an agent and an assistant agent, both to be +appointed by the Society at home, for two years; a secretary, to be +appointed by the agent annually; and a vice-agent, two counsellors, a +register, a sheriff, a treasurer, and a committee on new emigrants, to be +chosen by the people. Several minor officers are appointed by the agent, +who is entrusted with great powers. The judiciary consists of the agent, +and a competent number of justices of the peace, who are appointed by him, +and two of whom, together with the agent, constitute the Supreme Court. A +single justice has jurisdiction in small criminal cases, and in all civil +cases where the claim does not exceed twenty dollars. + +Male colored people, at twenty years of age, are entitled to vote, if they +hold land in their own right, or pay a tax of one dollar. Every emigrant +must sign a pledge to support the constitution, and to refrain from the +use of ardent spirits, except in case of sickness. By a provision of the +constitution, emigration is never to be prohibited. + +Our boat attempted to land at some rocks, just outside of the port, in +order to avoid crossing the bar; but as the tide was low, and the surf +troublesome, we found it impracticable. I hate a bar; there is no fair +play about it. The long rollers come in from the sea, and, in consequence +of the shallowness of the water, seem to pile themselves up so as +inevitably to overwhelm you, unless you have skilful rowers, a good +helmsman, and a lively boat. At one moment, your keel, perhaps, touches +the sand; the next, you are lifted upon a wave and borne swiftly along for +many yards, while the men lie on their oars, or only pull an occasional +stroke, to keep the boat's head right. Now they give way with a will, to +escape a white-crested wave that comes trembling and roaring after them; +and now again they cease rowing, or back water, awaiting a favorable +moment to cross. Should you get into a trough of the sea, you stand a very +pretty chance to be swamped, and have your boat rolled over and over upon +its crew; while, perchance, a hungry shark may help himself to a leg or +arm. + +Pulling across this ugly barrier, we landed at the only wharf of which the +colony can boast. There is here a stone warehouse, but of no great size. +In front of it lay a large log, some thirty feet long, on which twelve or +fourteen full grown natives were roosting, precisely like turkeys on a +pole. They are accustomed to sit for hours together in this position, +resting upon their heels. A girl presented us with a note, informing all +whom it might concern, that Mrs. ---- would do our washing; but, as the +ship's stay was to be short, we turned our attention to the cattle, of +which a score or two were feeding in the vicinity. They are small, but, +having been acclimated, are sleek and well-conditioned. As I have before +observed, it is a well-established fact, that all four-footed emigrants +are not less subject to the coast fever than bipeds. Horses, cattle, and +even fowls, whether imported or brought from the interior to the coast, +speedily sicken, and often die. + +I dined with Mr. Russwurm, the colonial agent, a man of distinguished +ability and of collegiate education. He gave me, some monkey-skins and +other curiosities, and favored me with much information respecting the +establishment. The mean temperature of the place is eighty degrees of +Fahrenheit, which is something less than that of Monrovia, on account of +its being more open to the sea. The colony comprises six hundred and fifty +inhabitants, all of whom dwell within four miles of the Cape. Besides the +settlement of Harper, situated on the Cape itself, there is that of Mount +Tubman (named in honor of Mr. T. of Georgia), which lies beyond Mount +Vaughan, and three and a half miles from Cape Palmas. There is no road to +the interior of the country, except a native path. The agent, with a party +of twenty, recently penetrated about seventy miles into the Bush, passing +through two tribes, and coming to a third, of large numbers and strength. +The king of the latter tribe has a large town, where many manufactures are +carried on, such as iron implements and wooden furniture of various kinds. +He refused Mr. Russwurm an escort, alleging that there was war, but sent +his son to the coast, to see the _black-white_ people and their +improvements. + +A large native tribe, the Grebo, dwells at Cape Palmas in the midst of the +colonists. Their conical huts, to the number of some hundreds, present the +most interesting part of the scene. Opposite the town, upon an uninhabited +island at no great distance, the dead are exposed, clad in their best +apparel, and furnished with food, cloth, crockery, and other articles. A +canoe is placed over the body. This island of the dead is called by a +name, which, in the plainest of English, signifies "Go-to-Hell;" a +circumstance that seems to imply very gloomy anticipations as to the fate +of their deceased brethren, on the part of these poor Grebos. As a badge +of mourning, they wear cloth of dark blue, instead of gayer colors. Dark +blue is universally, along the coast, the hue indicative of mourning. + +The Fishmen, at Cape Palmas, as well as at most other places on the coast, +refuse to sell fish to be eaten on board of vessels, believing that the +remains of the dead fish will frighten away the living ones. + +21.--Sailed at 5 o'clock A.M., with a good wind, and anchored at Sinoe at +6 P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Settlement of Sinoe--Account of a murder by the natives--Arrival at +Monrovia--Appearance of the town--Temperance--Law-suits and +Pleadings--Expedition up the St. Paul's river--Remarks on the cultivation +of sugar--Prospects of the coffee-culture in Liberia--Desultory +observations on agriculture. + + +_October_ 22.--At Sinoe. Mr. Morris, the principal man of the settlement, +came on board, in order to take passage with us to Monrovia. He informs us +that there are but seventy-two colonists here at present, but that nearly +a hundred are daily expected. Such an accession of strength is much needed +for the natives in the vicinity are powerful, and not very friendly, and +the colony is too weak to chastise them. Our appearance has caused them +some alarm. This is the place where the mate of an American vessel was +harpooned, some months since, by the Fishmen. We shall hold a palaver +about it, when the Commodore joins us. + +We left Sinoe at 7 o'clock, P.M. + +23. Mr. Morris has been narrating the circumstances of the murder of the +American mate, at Sinoe, in reference to which we are to "set a palaver." +"Palaver," by-the-by, is probably a corruption of the Portuguese word, +"Palabra." As used by the natives, it has many significations, among which +is that of an open quarrel. To "set a palaver," is to bring it to a final +issue, either by talking or fighting. + +The story of the murder is as follows. A Fishman agreed to go down the +coast with Captain Burke, who paid him his wages in advance; on receiving +which, the fellow jumped overboard, and escaped. The captain then refused +to pay the sums due to two members of the same tribe, unless the first +should refund the money. Finding the threat insufficient, he endeavored to +entice these two natives on board his vessel, by promises of payment, but +ineffectually. Meanwhile, the mate going ashore with a colonist, his boat +was detained by the natives, during the night, but given up the next +morning, at the intercession of the inhabitants. The mate returned on +board, in a violent rage, and sent a sailor to catch a Fishman, on whom to +take vengeance. But the man caught a Tartar, and was himself taken ashore +as prisoner. The mate and cook then went out in a boat, and were attacked +by a war-canoe, the men in which harpooned the cook, and stripping the +mate naked, threw him overboard. They beat the poor fellow off, as he +attempted to seize hold of the canoe, and, after torturing him for some +time, at length harpooned him in the back. Captain Burke, having but one +man and two passengers left, made sail, and got away as fast as possible. + +23.--Arrived at Monrovia, where we find the Porpoise, with six native +prisoners on board, who were taken at Berebee, as being concerned in the +murder of Captain Farwell and his crew, two years ago. To accomplish their +capture, the Porpoise was disguised as a barque, with only four or five +men visible on deck, and these in Scotch caps and red shirts, so as to +resemble the crew of a merchant-vessel. The first canoe approached, and +Prince Jumbo stepped boldly up the brig's side, but started back into his +boat, the moment that he saw the guns and martial equipment on deck. The +Kroomen of the Porpoise, however, jumped into the water and upset the +canoe, making prisoners of the four natives whom it contained. Six or +eight miles further along the coast, the brig being under sail, another +canoe came off with two natives, who were likewise secured. The Kroomen +begged to be allowed to kill the prisoners, as they were of a hostile +tribe. + +28.--Leaving the ship in one of our boats, pulled by Kroomen, we crossed +the bar at the mouth of the Mesurado, and in ten minutes afterwards, were +alongside of the colonial wharf. Half-a-dozen young natives and colonists +issued from a small house to watch our landing; but their curiosity was +less intrusive and annoying, than would have been that of the same number +of New-York boys, at the landing of a foreign man-of-war's boat. On our +part, we looked around us with the interest which even common-place +objects possess for those, whose daily spectacle is nothing more varied +than the sea and sky. Even the most ordinary shore-scenery becomes +captivating, after a week or two on shipboard. Two colonists were sawing +plank in the shade of the large stone store-house of the colony. Ascending +the hill, we passed the printing-office of the Liberia Herald, where two +workmen were printing the colonial laws. The publication of the newspaper +had been suspended for nearly three months, to enable them to accomplish +work of more pressing importance. Proceeding onward, we came to the +Governor's house, and were received with that gentleman's usual courtesy. +The house is well furnished, and arranged for a hot climate; it is +situated near the highest point of the principal street, and commands from +its piazza a view of most of the edifices in Monrovia town. + +The fort is on the highest ground in the village, one hundred feet above +the sea; it is of stone, triangular in shape, and has a good deal the +appearance of an American pound for cattle, but is substantial, and +adequate for its intended purposes. From this point, the street descends +in both directions. About fifty houses are in view. First, the Government +House, opposite to which stand the neat dwellings of Judge Benedict and +Doctor Day. Further on, you perceive the largest house in the village, +erected by Rev. Mr. Williams, of the Methodist mission. On the right is a +one-story brick house, and two or three wooden ones. A large stone +edifice, intended for a Court-House and Legislative Hall, has recently +been completed. The street itself is wide enough for a spacious pasture, +and affords abundance of luxuriant grass, through which run two or three +well-trodden foot-paths. Apart from the village, on the Cape, we discerned +the light-house, the base of which is about two hundred feet above the +sea. + +We dined to-day at the New Hotel. The dinner was ill-cooked (an +unpardonable fault at Monrovia, where good cooks, formerly in the service +of our southern planters, might be supposed to abound), and not served up +in proper style. But there was abundance to eat and drink. Though the +keeper of the house is a clergyman and a temperance-man, ale, porter, +wine, and cherry-brandy, are to be had at fair prices. Three years ago, a +tavern was kept here in Monrovia by a Mr. Cooper, whose handbill set +forth, that "nothing was more repugnant to his feelings than to sell +ardent spirits"--but added--"if gentlemen _will_ have them, the following +is the price." Of course, after such a salvo, Mr. Cooper pocketed the +profits of his liquor-trade with a quiet conscience. He used to tell me +that a little brandy was good for the "suggestion;" but I fear that he +made, in his own person, too large a demand upon its suggestive +properties; for his house is now untenanted and ruinous, and he himself +has carried his tender conscience to another settlement. + +30.--Went ashore in the second cutter. The Kroomen managed her so +bunglingly, that, on striking the beach, she swung broadside to the sea. +In this position, a wave rolled into her, half-filled the boat, and +drenched us from head to foot. Apprehending that she would roll over upon +us, and break our limbs or backs, we jumped into the water, and waded +ashore. + +While in the village, I visited the Court House, to hear the trial of a +cause involving an amount of eight hundred dollars. Governor Roberts acted +as judge, and displayed a great deal of dignity in presiding, and much +wisdom and good sense in his decision. This is the highest court of the +Colony. There are no regularly educated lawyers in Liberia, devoting +themselves exclusively to the profession; but the pleading seems to be +done principally by the medical faculty. Two Doctors were of counsel in +the case alluded to, and talked of Coke, Blackstone, and Kent, as +learnedly as if it had been the business of their lives to unravel legal +mysteries. The pleadings were simple, and the arguments brief, for the +judge kept them strictly to the point. An action for slander was +afterwards tried, in which the damages were laid at one hundred dollars. +One of the medico-jurisconsults opened the cause with an appeal to the +feelings, and wrought his own sensibilities to such a pitch as to declare, +that, though his client asked only for one hundred dollars, he considered +the jury bound in conscience to give him two. The Doctor afterwards told +me that he had walked eighty miles to act as counsel in this court. A +tailor argued stoutly for the defendant, but with little success; his +client was fined twenty dollars. + +On our return, a companion and myself took passage for the ship in a +native canoe. These little vessels are scooped out of a log, and are of +even less size and capacity than the birch-canoes of our Indians, and so +light that two men, using each a single hand, may easily carry them from +place to place. Our weight caused the frail bark to sit so deep in the +water, that, before reaching the ship, we underwent another drenching. +Three changes of linen in one day are altogether too expensive and +troublesome. + +_November_ 1.--Went up the St. Paul's river on a pleasure excursion, with +the Governor, and several men of lesser note. We touched at the public +farm, and found only a single man in charge. The sugar-cane was small in +size, was ill-weeded, and, to my eye, did not appear flourishing. The land +is apparently good and suitable, but labor is deficient, and my +impressions were not favorable in regard to the manner of cultivation. The +mill was exposed to the atmosphere, and the kettles were full of foul +water. We landed likewise at New Georgia, a settlement of recaptured +Africans. There was here a pretty good appearance, both of people and +farms. We called also at Caldwell, a rich tract of level land, of which a +space of about two miles is cultivated by comfortable and happy-looking +colonists. A very pleasant dinner was furnished by the Governor at what +was once a great slave station, and the proprietor of which is still +hostile to the colonists, and to both English and Americans, for breaking +up the trade. We saw several alligators. One of them, about three feet in +length, lay on a log, with his mouth wide open, catching flies. + +From the whole course of my observation, I cannot but feel satisfied that +the colonists are better off here than in America. They are more +independent, as healthy, and much happier. Agriculture will doubtless be +their chief employment, but, for years to come, the cultivation of sugar +cane cannot be carried to any considerable extent. There are many calls +upon the resources of the Colonization Society and the inhabitants, more +pressing, and which promise a readier and greater return. A large capital +should be invested in the business, in order to render it profitable. The +want of a steam-mill, to grind the cane, has been severely felt. Ignorance +of the most appropriate soil, and of the most productive kind of cane, and +the best methods of planting and grinding it, have likewise contributed to +retard the cultivation of sugar. But the grand difficulty is the want of a +ready capital, and the high price of labor. The present wages of labor are +from sixty to seventy-five cents per day. The natives refuse to work among +the canes, on account of the prickly nature of the leaves, and the +irritating property of a gum that exudes from them. Yet it may be doubted +whether the colony will ever make sugar to any important extent, unless +some method be found to apply native labor to that purpose. Private +enterprise is no more successful than the public efforts. A plantation has +been commenced at Millsburg, and prosecuted with great diligence, but with +no auspicious results. Sugar has been made, indeed, but at a cost of three +times as much, per pound, as would have purchased it. + +Hitherto, the plantations of Coffee trees have not succeeded well. Coffee, +it is true, is sometimes exported from Liberia; and doubtless the friends +of Colonization drink it with great gusto, as an earnest of the progress +of their philanthropic work. The cup, however, will be less grateful to +their taste, when they learn that nearly all this coffee is procured at +the islands of St. Thomas and St. Prince's, in the Bight of Benin, and +entered as the produce of Liberia, _ad captandum_. The same game has been +played in England, by entering their coffee as from Sierra Leone or +Gambia, to entitle it to the benefit of the lower duties on colonial +produce. But the English custom-house officers are now aware of the +deception, and the business is abandoned. + +The mode of forming a coffee-plantation is simply to go into the woods +(where the tree abounds), select the wild coffee tree, and transport it +into the prepared field. The indigenous coffee-tree of Liberia produces +fruit of a superior quality, larger and finer flavored, than that of the +West Indies. But the cultivation, I think, is conducted upon wrong +principles. Instead of having large plantations, with no other vegetables +on the land, let every man intermingle a few coffee trees with the corn, +cassada, and other vegetables in his garden or fields. These few trees, +having the benefit of the hoeing and manuring bestowed on the other crops, +will produce much more abundantly and with less trouble, than by separate +culture. In fact, after setting out the trees, there will be no trouble, +except that of gathering and preparing the berries for market. In this +burning climate, the shade afforded by the tree will be beneficial to most +vegetables. + +The want of success, hitherto, in the cultivation of coffee, has been +attributed by some to the custom of transplanting the trees from the +forest, instead of raising them from seed. The colonial Secretary is now +making trial of the latter method. He has several thousand young trees in +his nursery, and will soon be able to test the comparative efficiency of +the different systems. Not improbably, the cultivation of seedlings may be +found preferable to that of transplanted trees; but, in my opinion, the +great obstacle to success has been the deficiency of care and proper +manuring. In order to bear well, trees require to have the ground +enriched, and kept free from weeds. Failing this, the plant often dies, +and never flourishes so well as in its native woods. The inhabitants of +Liberia have not the means of bestowing the requisite care upon the +cultivation of coffee, on an extended scale; and I say boldly, that large +plantations, in that region, cannot compete with those of Brazil and the +West Indies, where the plantations are well-stocked, and cultivated by +slave-labor. Free labor in Africa will not soon be so cheap as that of +slaves in other countries. Even in Cuba, the planters can barely feed +themselves and their slaves, by the culture of coffee. How, then, can it +be made profitable in Liberia, where labor commands so high a price, and +is often impossible to be procured? + +As incidental, however, to other branches of agriculture, coffee may be +advantageously raised. The best trees are those seen in gardens, where, +from ten or twelve, more berries are gathered than from hundreds in a +plantation. A single tree, in the garden of Colonel Hicks, is said to have +produced sixteen pounds at a gathering; and I have seen several very fine +trees in similar situations. Fifty or a hundred trees, well selected, and +properly distributed through the fields, would yield several hundred +pounds of coffee, which, being gathered and dried by the women and +children, would be gratuitous as regards the cost of labor. Thus, the +coffee culture, in Liberia, must be considered far more eligible than that +of sugar; inasmuch as the latter requires a large capital and extensive +operations, while the former succeeds best on a very moderate scale. + +Judge Benedict has probably bestowed more attention on this business, than +any other person in Liberia. He is a man of excellent sense and +information, and has the means to carry out his views, as well as the +patriotism to exert himself for the advantage of the commonwealth. With +these qualifications, he has employed five or six years in the experiment +of raising coffee, and thus far, with little success, although his +plantation comprises some thousands of growing trees. In the spring of +1841, he made presents, to myself and other officers, of genuine Liberian +coffee, in small native bags, containing two or three pounds each. The +Judge is still giving away little bags of the same kind; but I do not yet +learn that his crop is more than sufficient for his own use, and for +distribution as specimens; certainly, it is not so abundant as to render +the sale of it an object. As for the plantation itself, I must confess +that it appeared to me more flourishing three years ago, than at present. +Most of the trees, on the spot originally planted, are dead, and the rest +in a sickly condition; while the most thriving trees are to be seen on the +lower and damper land adjacent, which, at my former visit, was covered +with a dense forest. Beyond a doubt, the coffee tree is as well adapted to +this soil and climate as to those of Cuba, and produces a larger and +better flavored berry; but I repeat my opinion, that the Liberian, hiring +laborers at sixty cents a day, cannot compete with the West Indian, who +has his hundreds of slaves already paid for, and his trees growing in +well-weeded land. The mere feeding, I might almost say, of a dozen +laborers in Liberia, will cost more than all the coffee they raise would +re-imburse, at the Cuba prices. + +The cultivation of rice is universal in Africa. The natives never neglect +it, for fear of famine. For an upland crop, the rice-lands are turned over +and planted in March and April. In September and October, the rice is +reaped, beaten out, and cleaned for market or storing. The lowland crop, +on the contrary, is planted in September, October, and November, in marshy +lands, and harvested in March and April. Lands will not produce two +successive crops without manuring and ploughing. About two bushels of seed +are sown to the acre; and the crop, on the acre of upland, is about thirty +bushels, and from forty to forty-five bushels on the lowlands. The rice is +transported to market on the backs of natives, packed in bundles of about +three feet long and nine inches in diameter. The wrappers are made of +large leaves, bound together by cords of bark. The load is sustained by +shoulder-straps, and by a band, passing round the forehead of the bearer. + +Cassada is a kind of yam, and sends up a tall stalk, with light green +leaves. It has a long root, looking like a piece of wood with the brown +bark on; the interior is white and mealy, rather insipid, but nutritious, +and invaluable as an article of food. It is raised from the seed, root, or +stem; the latter being considered preferable. Its yield is very great. In +six months, it is fit to dig, and may be preserved fifteen or eighteen +months in the ground, but ceases to be eatable in three or four days after +being dug. Tapioca is manufactured from this root. + +Indian corn is planted in May and harvested in September; or, if planted +in July, it ripens in November and December. Sweet potatoes constitute one +of the main reliances of the colonists; they are raised from seeds, roots +or vines, but most successfully from the latter. The season of planting is +in May, or June, and the crop ripens four months later. Plantains and +bananas are a valuable product; they are propagated from suckers, which +yield a first crop in about a year. The top is cut down, and new stalks +spring from the root. Ground nuts are the same article peddled by the old +women at our street-corners, under the name of pea-nuts; so called from +the close resemblance of the bush to the tops of the sweet pea. This nut +is used in England for making oil. The Cocoa is a bulbous root of the size +of a tea-cup, and has some similarity to the artichoke. Pine-apples, +small, but finely flavored, grow wild in the woods, and are abundant in +their season. + +In concluding these very imperfect and miscellaneous observations on the +agriculture and products of Liberia, it may be remarked that the farmer's +life and modes of labor are different from those of the same class, in +other countries; inasmuch as there is here no spring, autumn, or winter. +The year is a perpetual summer; therein, if in nothing else, resembling +the climate of the original Paradise, to which men of all colors look back +as the birth-place of their species. The culture of the soil appears to be +emphatically the proper occupation of the Liberians. Many persons have +anticipated making money more easily by trade; but, being unaccustomed to +commercial pursuits, and possessing but little capital, by far the greater +number soon find themselves bankrupt, and burthened with debt. With these +evidences of the inequality, on their part, of competition with vessels +trading on the coast, and with the established traders of the colony, the +inhabitants are now turning their attention more exclusively to +agriculture. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +High character of Governor Roberts--Suspected Slaver--Dinner on +shore--Facts and remarks relative to the slave trade--British +philanthropy--Original cost of a slave--Anchor at Sinoe--Peculiarities and +distinctive characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen--The King of +Appollonia--Religion and morality among the natives--Influence of the +women. + + +_November_ 3.--Ashore, botanizing. In this region, where all the plants +are strange, and many of them beautiful, it is easy work to form a +collection. With a Kroo-boy to carry my book, I cut leaves and flowers as +they came to hand. + +4.--Governor Roberts, General Lewis, and Doctor Day, dined with us in the +ward-room. The Governor is certainly no ordinary person. In every +situation, as judge, ruler, and private gentleman, he sustains himself +creditably, and is always unexceptionable. His deportment is dignified, +quiet, and sensible. He has been tried in war as well as in peace, has +seen a good share of fighting, and has invariably been cool, brave, and +successful. He is a native of Virginia, and came from thence in 1828. The +friends of Colonization can hardly adduce a stronger argument in favor of +their enterprise, than that it has redeemed such a man as Governor Roberts +from servitude, and afforded him the opportunity (which was all he needed) +of displaying his high natural gifts, and applying them to the benefit of +his race. + +To-night we had a Kroo-dance on the forecastle. It was an uncouth and +peculiar spectacle, characterized by singing, stamping, and clapping of +hands, with a great display of agility. National dances might be taken as +no bad standard of the comparative civilisation of different countries. A +gracefully quiet dance is the latest flower of high refinement. + +5.--Two vessels descried standing in; and bets were five to one that they +were the Macedonian and Decatur. It proved otherwise; they were a British +gun-brig and French merchant-schooner. + +8.--It has been raining for three days, almost incessantly. No Macedonian +yet. + +10.--Dined on shore. Our captain and five officers, the master and surgeon +of an English merchantman, and the captain of the French schooner, were of +the party. It was a pleasant dinner. The conversation turned principally +upon the trade and customs of the coast. The slave-trade was freely +discussed; and the subject had a peculiar interest, under the +circumstances, because this identical Frenchman, at table with us, is +suspected to have some connection with it. It is merely a surmise. The +French captain speaks a little English; but, after dinner, as a matter of +courtesy, we all adopted his native language. Our friend Colonel Hicks, as +usual, did most of the talking; he is as shrewd, agreeable, and +instructive a companion, as may often be met with in any society. + +The dinner-conversation, above alluded to, suggests some remarks in +reference to the slave-trade. There is great discrepancy in the various +estimates as to the number of slaves annually exported from Africa. Some +authorities rate it as high as half a million. Captain Bosanquet, R.N., +estimates that fifteen thousand are annually sent to the West Indies, and +a greater number to Arabia, all of which are from Portuguese settlements. +He affirms that the trade has increased very much between the years 1832 +and 1839, and particularly in the latter part of that period; an effect +naturally consequent upon the great number of captures made by the English +cruisers. A trader, for instance, contracting to introduce a given number +of slaves into Cuba, must purchase more on the coast to make up for those +lost by capture. Captain Brodhead, another British officer, says that the +number of slaves carried off is grossly exaggerated, and that the English +papers told of thousands being shipped from a port, where he lay at anchor +during the period indicated, and for fifty days before and afterwards; in +all which time, not a slave vessel came in sight. Doctor Madden states, +that, during his residence in Cuba, the number of slaves annually imported +was twenty-five thousand. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton calls it one hundred +and fifteen thousand! Her Majesty's Commissioners say that the number is +as well known as any other statistical point, and that it does not exceed +fifteen thousand. The slave-trade rose to a great height in 1836, owing +principally to the high price of colonial produce. I was in Cuba in that +year, and witnessed the great activity that prevailed in buying negroes, +and forming plantations, especially those of sugar. The prices have since +fallen, and the slave-trade decreased, on the plain principle of political +economy, that the demand regulates the supply. + +The English cruisers are doubtless very active in the pursuit of vessels +engaged in this traffic. The approbation of government and the public (to +say nothing of £5 head-money for every slave recaptured, and the increased +chance of promotion to vacancies caused by death) is a strong inducement +to vigilance. But, however benevolent may be the motives that influence +the action of Great Britain, in reference to the slave-trade, there is the +grossest cruelty and injustice in carrying out her views. Attempts are now +being made to transport the rescued slaves in great numbers to the British +West India islands, at the expense of government. It is boldly +recommended, by men of high standing in England, to carry them all thither +at once. The effect of such a measure, gloss it over as you may, would be +to increase the black labor of the British islands, by just so much as is +deducted from the number of slaves, intended for the Spanish or Brazilian +possessions. "The sure cure for the slave-trade" says Mr. Laird, "is in +our own hands. It lies in producing cheaper commodities by free labor, in +our own colonies." And, to accomplish this desirable end, England will +seize upon the liberated Africans and land them in her West India islands, +with the alternative of adding their toil to the amount of her colonial +labor, or of perishing by starvation. How much better will their condition +be, as apprentices in Trinidad or Jamaica, than as slaves in Cuba? +Infinitely more wretched! English philanthropy cuts a very suspicious +figure, when, not content with neglecting the welfare of those whom she +undertakes to protect, she thus attempts to made them subservient to +national aggrandizement. The fate of the rescued slaves is scarcely better +than that of the crews of the captured slave-vessels. The latter are +landed on the nearest point of the African coast, where death by +starvation or fever almost certainly awaits them. + +I am desirous to put the best construction possible on the conduct as well +of nations as of individuals, and never to entertain that cold scepticism +which explains away all generosity and philanthropy on motives of selfish +policy. But it is difficult to give unlimited faith to the ardent and +disinterested desire professed by England, to put a period to the +slave-trade. If sincere, why does she not, as she readily might, induce +Spain, Portugal, and Brazil, to declare the traffic piratical? And again, +why is not her own strength so directed as to give the trade a death-blow +at once? There are but two places between Sierra Leone and Accra, a +distance of one thousand miles, whence slaves are exported. One is +Gallinas; the other New Sesters. The English keep a cruiser off each of +these rivers. Slavers run in, take their cargoes of human flesh and blood, +and push off. If the cruiser can capture the vessels, the captors receive +£5 per head for the slaves on board, and the government has more +"emigrants" for its West India possessions. Now, were the cruisers to +anchor at the mouths of these two rivers, the slavers would be prevented +from putting to sea with their cargoes, and the trade at those places be +inevitably stopped. But, in this case, where would be the head-money and +the emigrants? + +It has been asserted that the colonists of Liberia favor the slave-trade. +This is not true. The only places where the traffic is carried on, north +of the line, are in the neighborhood of the most powerful English +settlements on the whole coast; while even British authority does not +pretend that the vicinity of the American colonies is polluted by it. +Individuals among the colonists, unprincipled men, may, in a very few +instances, from love of gain, have given assistance to slavers, by +supplying goods or provisions at high prices. But this must have been done +secretly, or the law would have taken hold of them. Slavers, no doubt, +have often watered at Monrovia, but never when their character was known. +On the other hand, the slave stations at St. Paul's river, at Bassa, and +at Junk, have undeniably been broken up by the presence of the colonists. +Even if destitute of sympathy for fellow-men of their own race and hue, +and regardless of their deep stake in the preservation of their character, +the evident fact is, that self-interest would prompt the inhabitants of +Liberia to oppose the slave-trade in their vicinity. Wherever the slaver +comes, he purchases large quantities of rice at extravagant rates, thus +curtailing the supply to the colonist, and enhancing the price. Moreover, +the natives, always preferring the excitement of war to the labors of +peace, neglect the culture of the earth, and have no camwood nor palm-oil +to offer to the honest trader, who consequently finds neither buyers nor +sellers among them. + +The truth is, the slave-traders can dispense with assistance from the +Liberian colonists. They procure goods, and everything necessary to their +trade, at Sierra Leone, or from any English or American vessel on the +coast. If the merchantmen find a good market for their cargoes, they are +satisfied, whatever be the character of their customers. This is well +understood and openly avowed here. The English have no right to taunt the +Americans, nor to claim higher integrity on their own part. They lend +precisely the same indirect aid to the traffic that the Americans do, and +furnish everything except vessels, which likewise they would supply, if +they could build them. It is the policy of the English ship-masters on the +coast to represent the Americans as engaged in the slave-trade; for if, by +such accusations, they can induce British or American men-of-war to detain +and examine the fair trader, they thus rid themselves of troublesome +rivals. + +The natives are generally favorable to the slave-trade. It brings them +many comforts and luxuries, which the legitimate trade does not supply. +Their argument is, that "if a man goes into the Bush and buys camwood, he +must pay another to bring it to the beach. But if he buy a slave, this +latter commodity will not only walk, but bring a load of camwood on his +back." All slaves exported are Bushmen, many of whom are brought from two +or three hundred miles in the interior. The Fishmen and Kroomen are the +agents between the slave-traders and the interior tribes. They will not +permit the latter to become acquainted with the white men, lest their own +agency and its profits should cease. A slave, once sold, seldom returns to +his home. + +If transported to a foreign country, his case is of course hopeless; and +even if recaptured on the coast, his return is almost impossible. His +home, probably, is far distant from the sea. It can only be reached by +traversing the territories of four or five nations, any one of whom would +seize the hapless stranger, and either consign him to slavery among +themselves, or send him again to a market on the coast. Hence, those +recaptured by the English cruisers are either settled at Sierra Leone, or +transported to some other of the colonies of Great Britain. + +The price paid to the native agents for a full grown male slave, is about +one musket, twelve pieces of romauls, one cutlass, a demijohn of rum, a +bar of iron, a keg of powder, and ten bars of leaf-tobacco, the whole +amounting to the value of thirty to thirty-five dollars. A female is sold +for about a quarter less; and boys of twelve or thirteen command only a +musket and two pieces of romauls. Slave-vessels go from Havana with +nothing but dollars and doubloons. Other vessels go out with the above +species of goods, and all others requisite for the trade. The slaver buys +the goods on the coast, pays for them with specie, and lands them in +payment for the slaves, money being but little used in traffic with the +natives. + +13.--The Decatur arrived this evening, after a passage of thirty days from +Porto Praya. She left the Macedonian on the way, the winds being light, +the current adverse, and the frigate sailing very badly. + +17.--The Macedonian arrived. + +Coming off from town, to-day, I took a canoe with a couple of Kroomen, who +paddled down the river, till we arrived at a narrow part of the +promontory. On touching the shallows, one of the Kroomen took me on his +back to the dry land. The two then picked up the canoe, carried her across +the cape, perhaps a hundred yards, and launched her, with myself on board, +through the heavy surf. + +21.--Sailed at daylight for Sinoe, leaving the Macedonian and Decatur, an +American ship and barque, an English brig, and two Hamburg vessels, at +anchor. + +25.--Anchored at Sinoe at noon. + +26.--Ashore. Visited Fishtown, a well-built native village, containing +probably four hundred inhabitants. It is within about two hundred yards of +the colonial dwellings. The people are said to have committed many +depredations upon the colonists; and there is an evident intention of +driving them off. This is the tribe with which we are to hold a palaver. + +There are two grand divisions of native Africans on the Western Coast, the +Fishmen and the Bushmen; the latter being inhabitants of the interior; and +the former comprising all the tribes along the sea-shore, who gain a +subsistence by fishing, trading between the Bushmen and foreign vessels, +and laboring on shipboard. The Kroomen, so often mentioned, are in some +respects a distinct and separate people; although a large proportion, +probably nine-tenths of those bearing that name, are identical with the +Fishmen. The latter are generally treacherous and deceitful; the Kroomen +are much more honest, but still are not to be trusted without reserve and +discrimination. + +The government of these people, and of the natives generally, is nominally +monarchical, but democratic in substance. The regal office appears to be +hereditary in a family, but not to descend according to our ideas of +lineal succession. The power of the king is greatly circumscribed by the +privilege, which every individual in the tribe possesses, of calling a +palaver. If a man deems himself injured, he demands a full discussion of +his rights or wrongs, in presence of the rulers and the tribe. The +head-men sit in judgment, and substantial justice is generally done. There +are persons, celebrated for their power and copiousness of talking, who +appear as counsel in behalf of the respective parties. The more +distinguished of these advocates are sometimes sent for, from a distance +of two or three hundred miles, to speak at a palaver; and, in such cases, +they leave all other employment, and hurry to the scene of action. + +It would appear that, on other parts of the coast, or farther in the +interior, the native kings possess more power and assume greater state, +than those who have come under my notice. The King of Appollonia, +adjoining Axim Territory, is said to be very rich and powerful. If the +report of his nearest civilized neighbor, the Governor of Axim, is to be +credited, this potentate's house is furnished most sumptuously in the +European style. Gold cups, pitchers, and plates, are used at his table, +with furniture of corresponding magnificence in all the departments of his +household. He possesses vast treasures in bullion and gold dust. The +Governor of Dixcove informed me, that, about four years ago, he +accompanied an English expedition against Appollonia, which is still +claimed by England, although their fort there has been abandoned. On their +approach, the King fled, and left them masters of the place. Some of the +English soldiers opened the sepulchre of the King last deceased, and took +away an unknown amount of gold. Afterwards, by order of the Governor, the +remainder was taken from the grave, amounting to several hundred dollars. +Together with the treasure, numerous articles had been buried, such as a +knife, plate, and cup, swords, guns, cloth, goods of various kinds, and, +in short, every thing that the dead King had required while alive. There +were also four skeletons, two of each sex, buried beneath the royal +coffin. It is said that sixty victims were sacrificed on occasion of the +funeral, of whom only the most distinguished were allowed, even in death, +to approach their master so nearly, and act as his immediate attendants in +the world of spirits. The splendor of an African funeral, on the Gold +Coast, is unparalleled. It is customary for persons of wealth to smear the +corpses of their friends with oil, and then to powder them with gold-dust +from head to foot, so as to produce the appearance of bronzed or golden +statues. + +The present King of Appollonia deposited six hundred ounces of gold (about +ten thousand dollars) with the Governor of Cape Coast Castle, as security +for his good behavior. His cellar is well supplied with rare wines, which +he offers liberally to strangers who land at his residence. All these +circumstances, and this barbaric magnificence, indicate a far different +condition from that of the native Kings in the vicinity of Liberia, who +live simply, like their subjects, on vegetables and fish, and one of whom +was proud to array himself in a cast-off garment of my own. Their wealth +consists not in gold, plate, or bullion, but in crockery and earthenware. +Not only the Kings, but all the rich natives, accumulate articles of this +kind, until their dwellings resemble warehouses of crockery. Perhaps fifty +white wash-bowls, with as many pitchers, mugs, and plates, may be seen +around the room; and when these utensils become so numerous as to excite +the envy of the tribe, the owners are said to bury them in the earth. In +the house of King Glass (so named, I presume, from the transparency of his +character), I noticed the first indications of a taste for the Fine Arts. +Seventy coarse colored engravings, glazed and framed, were suspended on +the wall; and, what was most curious, nearly all of them were copies of +the same print, a portrait of King William the Fourth. + +It is to be desired that some missionary should give an account of the +degree and kind of natural religion among the native tribes. Their belief +in the efficacy of sassy-wood to discover guilt or innocence, indicates a +faith in an invisible Equity. Some of them, however, select the most +ridiculous of animals, the monkey, as their visible symbol of the Deity; +or, as appears more probable, they stand in spiritual awe of him, from an +idea that the souls of the dead are again embodied in this shape. Under +this impression, they pay a kind of worship to the monkey, and never kill +him near a burial-place; and though, in other situations, they kill and +eat him, they endeavor to propitiate his favor by respectful language, and +the use of charms. Other natives, in the neighborhood of Gaboon, worship +the shark, and throw slaves to him to be devoured. + +On the whole, their morality is superior to their religion--at least, as +between members of the same tribe--although they scarcely seem to +acknowledge moral obligations in respect to strangers. Their landmarks, +for instance, are held sacred among the individuals of a tribe. A father +takes his son, and points out the "stake and stones" which mark the +boundary between him and his neighbor. There needs no other registry. Land +passes from sire to son, and is sold and bought with as undisputed and +secure a title as all our deeds and formalities can establish. But, +between different tribes, wars frequently arise on disputed boundary +questions, and in consequence of encroachments made by either party. +"Land-palavers" and "Women-palavers" are the great causes of war. Veracity +seems to be the virtue most indiscriminately practised, as well towards +the stranger as the brother. The natives are cautious as to the accuracy +of the stories which they promulgate, and seldom make a stronger +asseveration than "I tink he be true!" Yet their consciences do not shrink +from the use of falsehood and artifice, where these appear expedient. + +The natives are not insensible to the advantages of education. They are +fond of having their children in the families of colonists, where they +learn English, and the manners of civilized life, and get plenty to eat. +Probably the parents hope, in this way, to endow their offspring with some +of the advantages which they suppose the white man to possess over the +colored race. So sensible are they of their own inferiority, that if a +person looks sternly in the face of a native, when about to be attacked by +him, and calls out to him loudly, the chances are ten to one that the +native runs away. This effect is analogous to that which the eye of man is +said to exert on the fiercest of savage beasts. The same involuntary and +sad acknowledgment of a lower order of being appears in their whole +intercourse with the whites. Yet such self-abasement is scarcely just; for +the slave-traders, who constitute the specimens of civilized man with whom +the natives have hitherto been most familiar, are by no means on a par +with themselves, in a moral point of view. It is a pity to see such awful +homage rendered to the mere intellect, apart from truth and goodness. + +It is a redeeming trait of the native character, so far as it goes, that +women are not wholly without influence in the public councils. If, when a +tribe is debating the expediency of going to war, the women come beneath +the council-tree, and represent the evils that will result, their opinion +will have great weight, and may probably turn the scale in favor of peace. +On the other hand, if the women express a wish that they were men, in +order that they might go to war, the warriors declare for it at once. It +is to be feared, that there is an innate fierceness even in the gentler +sex, which makes them as likely to give their voices for war as for peace. +It is a feminine office and privilege, on the African coast, to torture +prisoners taken in war, by sticking thorns in their flesh, and in various +other modes, before they are put to death. The unfortunate Captain Farwell +underwent three hours of torture, at the hands of the women and children. +So, likewise, did the mate of Captain Burke's vessel, at Sinoe. + +The natives are very cruel in their fights, and spare neither age nor sex; +they kill the women and female children, lest they should be the mothers +of future warriors, and the boys, lest they should fight hereafter. If +they take prisoners, it is either to torture them to death, or to sell +them as slaves. The Fishmen have often evinced courage and obstinacy in +war, as was the case in their assaults upon the Liberian settlers, in the +heroic age of the colony, when Ashman and his associates displayed such +warlike ability in defeating them. The Bushmen are as cruel as the former, +but appear to be more cowardly. I have heard the Rev. Mr. Brown, himself +an actor in the scene, relate the story of the fight at Heddington, in +which three colonists, assisted by two women, were attacked at daybreak by +five hundred natives, many of whom were armed with muskets. Zion Harris +and Mr. Demery were the marksmen, while the clergyman assumed the duty of +loading the guns. The natives rushed onward in so dense a crowd, that +almost every bullet and buckshot of the defenders hit its man. The +besieged had but six muskets, one hundred cartridges, and a few charges of +powder. Their external fortifications consisted only of a slight +picket-fence, which might have been thrown down in an instant. But, +fortunately, when there were but three charges of powder left in the +house, a shot killed Gotorap, the chief of the assailants, at whose fall +the whole army fled in dismay. One of the trophies of their defeat was the +kettle which they had brought for the purpose of cooking the missionaries, +and holding a cannibal feast. The battle-field is poetically termed the +bed of honor: but the bravest man might be excused for shrinking from a +burial in his enemy's stomach! Poetry can make nothing of such a fate. + +Rude and wretched as is the condition of the natives, it has been affirmed +that many of the Liberian colonists have mingled with them, and preferred +their savage mode of life to the habits of civilisation. Only one instance +of the kind has come to my personal knowledge. We had on board, for two or +three months, a party of Kroomen, among whom was one, dressed like the +rest, but speaking better English. Being questioned, he said that he had +learned English on board of merchant-vessels, where he had been employed +for several years. We took this young man into the ward-room, where he +worked for three months, associating chiefly with the Kroomen on deck, +speaking their language, and perfectly resembling them in his appearance +and general habits. About the time of discharging him, we discovered that +he was a native of North Carolina, had resided many years in Liberia, but, +being idle and vicious, had finally given up the civilized for the savage +state. His real name was Elijah Park; his assumed one, William Henry. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Palaver at Sinoe--Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen--Palaver at Settra +Kroo--Mrs. Sawyer--Objections to the Marriage of Missionaries--A +Centipede--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Rescue of the Sassy Wood-Drinker +Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists. + + + _November_ 27.--At Sinoe. The settlement here is in a poor condition. +The inhabitants are apparently more ignorant and lazy than the colonists +on any other part of the coast. Yet they have a beautiful and fertile +situation. + +28.--The Macedonian and Decatur arrived. Governor Roberts, and other +persons of authority and distinction among the colonists, were passengers, +in order to be present at the intended palaver. + +29.--At 9 A.M., thirteen boats left the different ships, armed, and having +about seventy-five marines on board, besides the sailors. Entering the +river, with flags flying and muskets glittering, the boats lay on their +oars until all were in a line, and then pulled at once for the beach, as +if about to charge a hostile battery. The manoeuvre was handsomely +executed, and seemed to give great satisfaction to some thirty colonists +and fifty naked natives, who were assembled on the beach. The officers and +marines were landed, and formed in line, under the direction of Lieutenant +Rich. The music then struck up, while the Commodore and Governor Roberts +slept ashore, and the whole detachment marched to the palaver-house, +which, on this occasion, was the Methodist Church. + +The Commodore seated himself behind a small table, which was covered with +a napkin. The officers, with Governor Roberts and Doctor Day, occupied +seats on his right, and the native chiefs, as they dropped in, found +places on the left. If the latter fell short of us in outward pomp and +martial array, they had certainly the advantage of rank, there being about +twenty kings and headmen of the tribes among them. Governor Roberts opened +the palaver in the Commodore's name, informing the assembled chiefs, that +he had come to talk to them about the slaughter of the mate and cook, +belonging to Captain Burke's vessel. Jim Davis, who conducted the palaver +on the part of the natives, professed to know nothing of the matter, the +chiefs present being Bushmen, whereas the party concerned were Fishmen. +After a little exhibition of diplomacy, Davis retired, and Prince Tom came +forward and submitted to an examination. His father is king of the tribe +of Fishmen, implicated in the killing of the two men. The prince denied +any personal knowledge on the subject, but observed that the deed had been +done in war, and that the tribe were not responsible. When asked where +Nippoo was (a chief known to have taken a leading part in the affray), he +at first professed ignorance, but, on being hard pressed, offered to go +and seek him. He was informed, however, that he could not be permitted to +retire, but must produce Nippoo on the spot, or be taken to America. + +The council went on. The depositions of three colonists were taken, and +the facts in the case brought out. They were substantially in accordance +with the narrative already given in this Journal; and, upon full +investigation, Captain Burke was decided to have been the aggressor. The +proceedings of the Fishmen had been fierce and savage, but were redeemed +by a quality of wild justice, and exhibited them altogether in a better +light than the white men. + +This affair being adjusted, the business of the palaver might be +considered at an end, so far as the American squadron had any immediate +connection with it. But there were points of importance to be settled, +between the natives and the colonists. It was the interest of the latter, +that the Fishmen, residing in the neighborhood of the settlement, should +be ejected from their land, which would certainly be a very desirable +acquisition to the emigrants. It seems, that the land originally belonged +to the Sinoe tribe, whose head-quarters are four miles inland. Several +years ago, long before the arrival of the emigrants, this tribe gave +permission to a horde of Fishmen to occupy the site, but apparently +without relinquishing their own property in the soil. Feeble at first, the +tenants wore a friendly demeanor towards their landlords, and made +themselves useful, until, gradually acquiring strength, they became +insolent, and assumed an attitude of independence. Setting the interior +tribe, of whom they held the land, at defiance, these Fishmen put an +interdict upon their trading with foreigners, except through their own +agency. Eight or ten years ago, however, the inland natives sold the land +to the Colonization Society, subject to the incumbrance of the Fishmen's +occupancy, during good behavior; a condition which the colonists likewise +pledged themselves to the Fishmen to observe, unless the conduct of the +latter should nullify it. + +For the last two or three years, the settlement at Sinoe, being neglected +by the Mississippi Society, under whose patronage it was established, has +dwindled and grown weaker in numbers and spirit. The Fishmen, with their +characteristic audacity, have assumed a bolder aspect, and, besides +committing many depredations on the property of the colonists, have +murdered two or three of their number. The murderers, it is true, were +delivered up by the tribe, and punished at the discretion of the Monrovian +authorities; but the colonists at Sinoe felt themselves too feeble to +redress their lighter wrongs, and therefore refrained from demanding +satisfaction. About a month since, an addition of sixty new emigrants was +made to the seventy, already established there. Considering themselves now +adequate to act on the offensive, they determined to drive off the +Fishmen. In this purpose they were confirmed by the Monrovian government; +and it was a part of the governor's business, at the palaver, to provide +for its execution. + +Governor Roberts exhibited much sagacity and diplomatic shrewdness in +accomplishing his object. It was obviously important to obtain the +assistance of the Bushmen, in expelling and keeping away the Fishmen. +They, however, were unwilling to take part in the matter, alleging their +fears as an excuse; although it might probably be a stronger reason, that +they could trade more advantageously with merchant-vessels, through the +medium of the Fishmen, than by the agency of the colonists. + +But the interposition of the American Commodore, and the affair of the +murder, afforded the Governor the advantage of mixing up that question +with the colonial one; so as to give the natives the impression that +everything was done at the instance and under the authority of our armed +force. This vantage-ground he skilfully made use of, yet not without its +being perceived, by the native politicians, that the question of expelling +the Fishmen was essentially distinct from that of the murder of Captain +Burke's seamen. Davis the interpreter, and one of the headmen of the Sinoe +tribe, inquired why the Commodore did not first talk his palaver, and then +the Governor in turn talk his. It did not suit his excellency's views to +answer; and the question was evaded. By this ingenious policy, the Bushmen +were induced to promise their aid in ridding the settlement of its +troublesome neighbors; while the Fishmen, overawed by the presence of a +force friendly to the colonists, submitted to their expulsion with a +quietude that could not, under other circumstances, have been expected. +Doubtless, they had forfeited their claim to the land by non-observance of +the conditions on which they held it; yet, in some points, the affair had +remarkably the aspect of a forcible acquisition of territory by the +colonists. + +No time was lost in carrying the decree of the palaver into execution. +Apprehending hostilities from the squadron, the Fishmen had already +removed most of their property, as well as their women and children, and +had evacuated the town. Governor Roberts, Mr. Brown, Doctor Day, late +government agent, together with a few colonists, repaired to the place and +directed its demolition. This was partially effected by the natives, of +whom some hundreds from the interior were present. They cut down and +unroofed many of the dwellings; and the Governor left directions to burn +every house, if the Fishmen should attempt to re-occupy the town. This +wild horde, therefore, may be considered as permanently ejected from the +ground which they held on so singular a tenure; and thus terminated an +affair which throws a strong light on many of the characteristics of the +natives, and likewise on the relations between them and the emigrants. + +_December_ 3.--We sailed, at two o'clock A.M., for Settra Kroo, fifteen +miles down the coast. Anchored at eleven A.M. A boat being sent ashore, +brought news of the death of Mr. Sawyer, the missionary. He left a wife, +now the only white person at the place. + +4.--The boats landed at Settra Kroo, to settle a palaver. The matter in +question was the violence offered by the natives to Captain Brown, master +of an American vessel, in striking and attempting to kill him. They +admitted the fact, begged pardon, and agreed to pay ten bullocks, four +sheep, and some fowls, or the value thereof, to Captain Brown, and further +to permit him to trade without payment of the usual "dash." This town is +said to be very superior to any other native settlement on the coast; and +the people are the best informed, most intelligent, and the finest in +personal appearance, that we have met with. + +Dined on shore. Mrs. Sawyer presided at the table, although her husband +was buried only yesterday. It is impossible not to look with admiration at +this lady, whose husband and only child have fallen victims to the +climate, yet who believes it her duty to remain alone, upon a barbarous +coast, in a position which perhaps no other woman ever voluntarily +occupied. She is faithful to her trust, as the companion of him who fell +at his post, and is doubtless happy in obedience to the unworldly motives +that guide her determination. Yet I cannot reconcile myself to the idea of +a woman sharing the martyrdom, which seems a proper, and not an +undesirable fate (so it come in the line of his duty) for a man. I doubt +the expediency of sending missionary ladies to perish here. Indeed, it may +well be questioned whether a missionary ought, in any country, to be a +married man. The care of a family must distract his attention and weaken +his efficiency; and herein, it may be, consists one great advantage which +the Catholic missionary possesses over the Protestant. He can penetrate +into the interior; he can sleep in the hut, and eat the simple food of a +native. But, if there be a wife and children, they must have houses and a +thousand other comforts, which are not only expensive and difficult to +obtain, but are clogs to keep the missionary down to one spot. I know how +much the toil and suffering of man is alleviated, in these far-off +regions, by the tenderness of woman. But the missionary is, by his +profession, a devoted man; he seeks, in this life, not his own happiness, +but the eternal good of others. Compare him with the members of my own +profession. We are sustained by no such lofty faith as must be supposed to +animate him, yet we find it possible to spend years upon the barren deep, +exposed to every variety of climate, and seeking peril wherever it may be +found--and all without the aid of woman's ministrations. Can a man, vowed +to the service of a Divine Master, think it much to practise similar +self-denial? + +5.--This morning, while performing my ablutions with a large sponge, a +centipede, four and a half inches long, crawled out of one of the +orifices, and, ran over my hand. The venomous reptile was killed, without +any harm being done. It had probably been hidden in one of a number of +large land-shells, which I brought on board a day or two ago. His touch +upon my hand was the most disagreeable sensation that I have yet +experienced in Africa. + +For a month past it has rained almost every night, but only three or four +times during the day. The tornadoes have not troubled us, and the regular +land and sea-breezes prevail. + +6.--At 4 P. M., anchored off Cape Palmas. The Decatur had hardly clewed up +her top-sails, when she was directed by signal to make sail again. Shortly +afterwards, a boat from the frigate brought us intelligence that there is +trouble here between the natives and the colonists. The boats are ordered +to be in readiness to go ashore to-morrow, in order to settle a palaver. +The Decatur has gone to Caraway to protect the missionaries there. Thus we +are in a fair way to have plenty of work, palavering with the natives and +protecting the colonists. Not improbably, the latter have felt encouraged, +by the presence of our squadron, to assume a higher tone towards the +natives than heretofore. But we shall see. + +8.--We landed, this morning, with nine armed boats, to examine into the +difficulties above alluded to. The first duty that it fell to our lot to +perform, was one of humanity. We had scarcely reached Governor Russwurm's +house, when, observing a crowd of people about a mile off, on the beach, +we learned that a man was undergoing the ordeal of drinking sassy-wood. +The Commodore, with most of the officers, hastened immediately to the +rescue. On approaching the spot, we saw a woman with an infant on her +back, walking to and fro, wailing bitterly, and throwing up her arms in +agony. Further on, we met four children, from eight to twelve years of +age, crying loudly as they came towards us, and apparently imploring us to +save their father. Beyond them, and as near the crowd as she dared go, +stood a young woman, supporting herself on a staff, with the tears +streaming down her cheeks, while she gazed earnestly at the spot where her +husband was suffering. Although she took no notice of us, her low moans +were more impressive than the vociferous agony of the former woman; and we +could not but suppose that the man was peculiarly amiable in the domestic +relations, since his impending fate awakened more grief in the hearts of +_two_ wives, than, in civilized life, we generally see exhibited by one. +Meeting a colonist, with intelligence that the victim was nearly dead, we +quickened our pace to a fast run. + +Before we could reach the spot, however, the man had been put into a +canoe, and paddled out into a lagoon by one of the party, while the +remainder moved on to meet us. The Commodore ordered two of the leaders to +be seized and kept prisoners, until the drinker of sassy-wood should be +given up. This had the desired effect; and, in half an hour, there came to +the Government House a hard-featured man of about fifty, escorted by a +crowd, no small portion of which was composed of his own multifarious +wives and children, all displaying symptoms of high satisfaction. He +looked much exhausted, but was taken into the house and treated medically, +with the desired success. When sufficiently recovered he will be sent to a +neighboring town, where he must remain, until permitted by the customs of +his people to return. He had been subjected to the ordeal, in order to +test the truth or falsehood of an accusation brought against him, of +having caused the death of a man of consequence, by incantations and +necromantic arts. In such cases, a strong decoction of the sassy-wood bark +is the universally acknowledged medium of coming at the truth. The natives +believe that the tree has a supernatural quality, potent in destroying +witches and driving out evil spirits; nor, although few escape, do the +accused persons often object to quaffing the deadly draught. If it fail to +operate fatally, it is generally by the connivance of those who administer +it, in concocting the potion of such strength that the stomach shall +reject it. Should the suspected wizard escape the operation of the +sassy-wood, it is customary to kill him by beating on the head with clubs +and stones; his property is forfeited; and the party accusing him feast on +the cattle of their victim. The man whom we rescued had taken a gallon of +the decoction the previous evening, and about the same quantity just +before we interrupted the ordeal. His wealth had probably excited the envy +of his accusers. + +We had just returned to the Government House and were about to seat +ourselves at the dinner-table, when an alarm-gun was heard from Mount +Tubman. A messenger soon arrived to say that the natives were attempting +to force their way through the settlement, to the Cape. The marines, +together with all the officers who could be spared, were instantly on the +march. The Commodore and Governor Russwurm led the force, on horseback; +the flag-lieutenant and myself being the only other officers fortunate +enough to procure animals. Mine was the queerest charger on which a knight +ever rode to battle; a little donkey, scarcely high enough to keep my feet +from the ground; so lazy that I could only force him into a trot by the +continual prick of my sword; and so vicious that he threw me twice, in +requital of my treatment. The rest of the detachment footed it four miles, +on a sandy road, and under the scorching sun. On the way we overtook +several armed colonists, hurrying to the point of danger. Passing the foot +of Mount Vaughan we reached Mount Tubman, and, ascending a steep, conical +hill, found ourselves on a level space of a hundred yards in diameter, +with a strong picket-fence surrounding it, and a solitary house in the +centre. Fifteen or sixteen armed men were on the watch, as conscious of +the neighborhood of an enemy; the piazza was crowded with women and +children; and from the interior of the house came the merry voices of +above a score of little boys and girls, ignorant of danger, and enjoying a +high frolic. Apart, by the wall, sat a blind man, grasping his staff with +a tremulous hand; and near him lay a sick woman, who had been brought in +from a neighboring farm-house. All these individuals, old and young, had +been driven hither for refuge by the alarm of war. + +Not far off, we beheld tokens that an attack had been made, and sternly +resisted by the little garrison of the stockade. On the side opposite the +Cape, a steep path rose towards the gate. Some twenty yards down this +passage lay a native, dead, with an ugly hole in his scull; and, in a +narrow path to the right, was stretched another, who had met his death +from a bullet-wound in the centre of his forehead. The ball had cut the +ligature which bound his "greegree" of shells around his head, and the +faithless charm lay on the ground beside him. Already, the flies were +beginning to cluster about the dead man's mouth. The attacking party, to +which these slain individuals belonged, were of the Barroky tribe. It is +supposed that, knowing King Freeman to be at variance with the colonists, +and hearing the salute in honor of the Commodore's landing, they mistook +it for the commencement of hostilities, and came in to support the native +party and gather spoil. + +As their repulse had evidently been decisive, we looked around us to enjoy +the extensive and diversified view from the summit of the hill. Casting +our eyes along the road which we had just passed, the principal settlement +was visible, consisting of two separate villages, intermingled with large +native towns, the dwellings in which greatly outnumbered those of the +colonists. On one side of the rude promontory ran a small river; on the +other, the sea rolled its unquiet waves. At a short distance from the +shore was seen the rocky islet, bearing the name of Go-to-Hell, where the +natives bury their dead. Northward, were the farms of those whom the +recent hostile incursion had driven to this place of refuge. In various +directions, several spurs of hills were visible, on one of which, +glittering among the trees, appeared the white edifices of the Mount +Vaughan Episcopal Mission. + +On our return, some of the party halted at the Mission establishment; but +I urged my little donkey onward, and, though this warlike episode had cost +me a dinner, made my re-appearance at the Governor's table in time for the +dessert. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Palaver with King Freeman--Remarks on the Influence of +Missionaries--Palaver at Rock Boukir--Narrative of Captain Farwell's +Murder--Scene of Embarkation through the Surf--Sail for Little Berebee. + + +_December_ 9.--At Cape Palmas. We again landed, as on the preceding day, +and met the redoubtable King Freeman, and twenty-three other kings and +headmen from the tribes in the vicinity. The palaver, like that at Sinoe, +was held in the Methodist Church; the Commodore, the Governor, and several +officers and colonists, appearing on one side, and the natives on the +other. There were several striking countenances among the four-and-twenty +negro potentates, and some, even, that bore the marks of native greatness; +as might well be the case, in a system of society where rank and authority +are, in a great measure, the result of individual talent and force of +character. One head man was very like Henry Clay, both in face and figure. +It is remarkable, too, that one of the chiefs at Sinoe not only had a +strong personal resemblance to the same distinguished statesman--being, as +it were, his image in ebony, or bronze--but, while not speaking, moved +constantly about the palaver-house, as is Mr. Clay's habit in the +senate-chamber. The interpreter, on the present occasion, Yellow Will by +name, was dressed in a crimson mantle of silk damask, poncho-shaped, and +trimmed with broad gold lace. + +The palaver being opened, the colonists complained that the chiefs had +raised to double what it had been, or ought to be, the prices of rice and +other products, for which the settlements were dependent upon the natives; +also, that they would permit no merchant vessels to communicate with the +colonial town. On representation of these grievances, the Kings agreed to +rescind the obnoxious regulations. This, however, did not satisfy the +Governor, who had hoped to induce King Freeman to remove his town to +another site, and allow the colonists more room. As matters at present +stand, the King's capital city is within three hundred yards of Governor +Russwurm's house, and entirely disunites the colonial settlements on the +Cape. In case of war, the communication between these two sections of the +town of Harper would be completely broken off. The Governor, therefore, +proposed that King Freeman should sell his land on the Cape, receiving a +fair equivalent from the colony, and should transplant his town across the +river, or elsewhere. But the King showed no inclination to comply; nor did +the Commodore, apparently, deem it his province to support Governor +Russwurm, or take any part in the question. The point was accordingly +given up; the Governor merely requesting King Freeman to "look his head," +that is, consider--and let him know his determination. + +There was also a complaint made, on the part of the missionaries, that the +natives had cut off their supplies, and had attempted to take away the +native children, who had been given them to educate. I was subsequently +informed, however, by the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, that the missionaries had +no difficulty with the natives, and did not wish their affairs to be +identified with those of the colonists. The above representation, +therefore, appears to have been unauthorized by the mission establishment. +And here, without presuming to offer an opinion as respects their conduct +at this particular juncture, I must be allowed to say, that the +missionaries at Liberia have shown themselves systematically disposed to +claim a position entirely independent of the colonies. They are supported +by wealthy and powerful societies at home; they have been accustomed to +look upon their own race as superior to the colored people; they are +individually conscious, no doubt, in many cases, of an intellectual +standing above that of the persons prominent among the emigrants; and they +are not always careful to conceal their sense of such general or +particular superiority. It is certain, too, that the native Africans +regard the whites with much greater respect than those of their own color. +Hence, it is almost impossible but that jealousy of missionary influence +should exist in the minds of the colonial authorities. The latter +perceive, in the midst of their commonwealth, an alien power, exercised by +persons not entitled to the privileges of citizenship, and to whom it was +never intended to allow voice or action in public affairs. By such a state +of things, the progress of Christianity and civilisation must be rather +retarded than advanced. + +There is reason, therefore, to doubt whether the labors of white +missionaries, in the territory over which the colonists exercise +jurisdiction, is, upon the whole, beneficial. If removed beyond those +limits, and insulated among the natives, they may accomplish infinite +good; but not while assuming an anomalous position of independence, and +thwarting the great experiment which the founders of Liberia had in view. +One grand object of these colonies is, to test the disputed and doubtful +point, whether the colored race be capable of sustaining themselves +without the aid or presence of the whites. In order to a fair trial of the +question, it seems essential that none but colored missionaries should be +sent hither. The difficulties between the Government and the Methodist +Episcopal mission confirm these views. At a former period, that mission +possessed power almost sufficient to subvert the Colonial rule. + +Let it not be supposed, that these remarks are offered in any spirit of +hostility to missionaries. My intercourse with them in different parts of +the world, has been of the most friendly nature. I owe much to their +kindness, and can bear cheerful testimony to the laborious, self-devoting +spirit in which they do their duty. At Athens, I have seen them toiling +unremittingly, for years, to educate the ignorant and degraded descendants +of the ancient Greeks, and was proud that my own country--in a hemisphere +of which Plato never dreamed--should have sent back to Greece a holier +wisdom than he diffused from thence. In the unhealthy isle of Cyprus, I +have beheld them perishing without a murmur, and their places filled with +new votaries, stepping over the graves of the departed, and not less ready +to spend and be spent in the cause of their Divine Master. I have +witnessed the flight of whole families from the mountains of Lebanon, +where they had lingered until its cedars were prostrate beneath the storm +of war, and only then came to shelter themselves under the flag of their +country. Everywhere, the spirit of the American Missionaries has been +honorable to their native land; nor, whatever be their human +imperfections, is it too much to term them holy in their lives, and often +martyrs in their deaths. And none more so than the very men of whom I now +speak, in these sickly regions of Africa, where I behold them sinking, +more or less gradually, but with certainty, and destitute of almost every +earthly comfort, into their graves. I criticise portions of their conduct, +but reverence their purity of motive; and only regret, that, while +divesting themselves of so much that is worldly, they do not retain either +more wisdom of this world, or less aptness to apply a disturbing influence +to worldly affairs. + +But it is time to return from this digression. Matters being now in a good +train at Cape Palmas, we go to use our pacific influence elsewhere. + +10.--We sailed at daylight, and anchored this evening at Rock Boukir. + +11.--In the morning, twelve armed boats were sent ashore from the three +ships. We landed on an open beach, all in safety, but more or less +drenched by the dangerous surf. One or two boats took in heavy seas, +broached to, and rolled over and over in the gigantic surf-wave. On +landing, we found a body of armed natives, perhaps fifty in number, drawn +up in a line. Their weapons were muskets, iron war-spears, long +fish-spears of wood, and broad knives. They made no demonstrations of +opposing us, but stood stoutly in their ranks, showing more independence +of bearing and less fear, than any natives whom we have met with. They +were evidently under military rule, and, as well as the remainder of the +tribe, evinced a degree of boldness, amounting almost to insolence, which, +it must be owned, would have made our party the more ready for a tustle, +on any reasonable pretext. + +The town of Rock Boukir is enclosed by palisades, about eight feet high, +with small gates on every side. It was not the purpose of the natives to +admit us within their walls; but a rain made it desirable that the palaver +should be held in a sheltered place, instead of on the beach, as had been +originally intended. + +We therefore marched in, took possession of the place, and stationed +sentinels at every gate. The town was entirely deserted; for the warriors +had gone forth to fight, if a fight there was to be; and the women and +children were sent for security into the "bush." In the central square +stood the Palaver House, beneath the shadow of a magnificent +wide-spreading tree, which had perhaps mingled the murmur of its leaves +with the eloquence of the native orators, for at least a century. Here we +posted ourselves, and awaited the King of Rock Boukir. + +The messengers announced, that he wished to bring his armed men within the +walls, and occupy one side of the town, while our party held the other. As +this proposition was not immediately acceded to, and as the King would not +recede, it seemed doubtful whether there would be any palaver, after all. +At length, however, the Commodore ordered the removal of our sentinels +from the gates, on one side of the town, and consented that the native +warriors should come in. A further delay was accounted for, on the plea +that the King was putting on his robes of state. Finally, he entered the +Palaver House and seated himself; an old man of sinister aspect, meanly +dressed, and having for his only weapon a short sword, with a curved +blade, six inches wide. Governor Roberts now opened the palaver, by +informing the king that his tribe were suspected of having participated in +the plunder of the Mary Carver, and the murder of her captain and crew. I +subjoin a brief narrative of this affair. + +Two years since, the schooner Mary Carver, of Salem, commanded by Captain +Farwell of Vassalboro', was anchored at Half Berebee, for the purpose of +trading with the natives. Her cargo was valued at twelve thousand dollars. +Captain Farwell felt great confidence in the people of Half Berebee, +although warned not to trust them too far, as they had the character of +being fierce and treacherous. One day, being alone on shore, the natives +knocked him down, bound him, and delivered him to the women and children, +to be tortured by sticking thorns into his flesh. After three hours of +this horrible agony, the men despatched him. As soon as the captain was +secured, a large party was sent on board the vessel, to surprise and +murder the mate and crew. In this they were perfectly successful; not a +soul on board escaped. They then took part of the goods out, and ran the +schooner ashore, where she was effectually plundered. Within a space of +twelve miles along the beach, there are five or six families of Fishmen, +ruled by different members of the Cracko family, of which Ben Cracko of +Half Berebee is the head. All these towns were implicated in the plot, and +received a share of the plunder. A Portuguese schooner had been taken, and +her crew murdered, at the same place, a year before. The business had +turned out so profitably, that other tribes on the coast began to envy the +good fortune of the Crackos, and declared that they likewise were going to +"catch" a vessel. + +The object of our present palaver was to inquire into the alleged agency +of the tribe at Rock Boukir in the above transaction. The King, speaking +in his own language, strenuously denied the charge; at the same time +touching his ears and drawing his tongue over his short curved +broad-sword. By these symbols and hieroglyphics, I supposed him to mean, +that he had merely heard of the affair, and that his sword was innocent of +the blood imputed to him. It seems, however, that it is the native form of +taking an oath, equivalent to our kissing the book. The King agreed to go +to Berebee, and assist in the grand palaver to be held there; complying +with a proposal of the Commodore, to take passage thither in the +Macedonian. Matters being so far settled, the council was broken up, and +the party re-embarked. + +Several of the boats having been anchored outside of the surf, the +officers and men were carried off to them in the native canoes. The scene +on the beach was quite animated. Hundreds of natives, having laid aside +their weapons, crowded around to watch the proceedings. The women and +children came from the woods in swarms, all talking, screaming, laughing, +and running hither and thither. The canoes were constantly passing from +the shore to the boats, carrying two persons at a time. Our men, being +unaccustomed to such rough water and unsteady conveyances, often capsized +the canoes and were tumbled ashore by the surf, perhaps with the loss of +hats, jackets, or weapons. Here was visible the head of a marine, swimming +to one of the boats, with his musket in his hand. Another, unable to swim, +was upheld by a Krooman. Here and there, an impatient individual plunged +into the surf and struck out for his boat, rather than await the tedious +process of embarkation. All reached the vessels in safety, but few with +dry jackets. His majesty of Rock Boukir, too, went on board the frigate, +according to agreement, and probably, by this mark of confidence, saved +his capital from the flames. If all stories be true, he little deserves +our clemency; and it is even said, that the different tribes held a grand +palaver at this place, for the division of the spoil of the Mary Carver. + +We set sail immediately. + +12.--Anchored at half past five P.M., off Little Berebee. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Palaver at Little Berebee--Death of the Interpreter and King Ben Cracko, +and burning of the Town--Battle with the Natives, and Conflagration of +several Towns--Turkey Buzzards--A Love-Letter--Moral Reflections--Treaty +of Grand Berebee--Prince Jumbo and his Father--Native system of +Expresses--Curiosity of the Natives. + + +_December_ 13.--At nine A.M., the boats of the squadron repaired to the +flag-ship, where they were formed in line, and then pulled towards the +shore abreast. The landing-place is tolerably good, but contracted. Four +or five boats might easily approach it together; but when most of the +thirteen attempted it at once, so narrow was the space, that one or two of +them filled. They were hauled up, however, and secured. Our force, on +being disembarked, was stationed in line, opposite the town of Little +Berebee, and the wood in its immediate vicinity. Many of the officers went +up to the Palaver House, a temporary shed erected for the occasion, about +fifty yards from the town-gate. King Ben Cracko now making his appearance, +with five or six headmen or kings of the neighboring tribes, the palaver +began. + +The interpreter, on this occasion, was well known to have been, in his own +person, a leading character in the act of piracy and murder, which it was +the object of the palaver to investigate. He had therefore a difficult +part to act; one that required great nerve, and such a talent of throwing +a fair semblance over foul facts, as few men, civilized or savage, are +likely to possess. With the consciousness of guilt upon him, causing him +to startle at the first aspect of peril, it is singular that the man +should have had the temerity to trust himself in so trying a position. His +version of the Mary Carver affair was a very wretched piece of fiction. He +declared that Captain Farwell had killed two natives, and that old King +Cracko, since deceased, had punished the captain by death, in the exercise +of his legitimate authority. He denied that the tribe had participated in +Captain Farwell's murder, or in those of the mate and crew, or in the +robbery of the vessel; affirming that the schooner had gone ashore, and +that everything was lost. All this was a tissue of falsehood; it being +notorious that a large quantity of goods from the wreck, and portions of +the vessel itself, were distributed among the towns along the coast. It +was well known, moreover, that these people had boasted of having "caught" +(to use their own phrase), an American vessel, and that the neighboring +tribes had threatened to follow Ben Cracko's example. + +Governor Roberts, who conducted the examination on our part, expressed to +the man his utter disbelief of the above statements. The Commodore, +likewise, stept hastily towards him, sternly warning him to utter no more +falsehoods. The interpreter, perceiving that the impression was against +him, and probably expecting to be instantly made prisoner, or put to +death, now lost the audacity that had hitherto sustained him. At this +moment, it is said, a gun was fired at our party, from the town; and, +simultaneously with the report, the interpreter sprang away like a deer. +There was a cry to stop him--two or three musket-bullets whistled after +the fugitive as he ran--but he had nearly reached the town-gate, when his +limbs, while strained to their utmost energy, suddenly failed beneath him. +A rifle-shot had struck him in the vertebra of the neck, causing +instantaneous death. Meanwhile, King Ben Cracko had made a bolt to escape, +but was seized by his long calico robe; which, however, gave way, leaving +him literally naked in the midst of his enemies. A shot brought him to the +ground; but he sprang to his feet, still struggling to escape. He next +received two bayonet wounds, but fought like a wild beast, until two or +three men flung themselves upon him, and held him down by main force. +Finding himself overpowered, he pretended to be dead, but was securely +bound, and taken to the beach. A lion of the African deserts could not +have shown a fiercer energy than this savage King; and those who gazed at +him, as he lay motionless on the sand, confessed that they had never seen +a frame of such masculine vigor as was here displayed. His wounds proved +mortal. + +The melée had been as sudden as the explosion of gunpowder; it was wholly +unexpected, but perhaps not to be wondered at, where two parties, with +weapons in their hands, had met to discuss a question of robbery and +murder. When the firing commenced, about two hundred natives were on the +spot, or in the vicinity; they were now flying in all directions, some +along the beach, a few into the sea itself, but by far the greatest number +to the woods. Many shots were fired, notwithstanding the Commodore's +orders to refrain. We were now directed to break down the palisades, and +set fire to the town. A breach of twenty or thirty feet was soon made in +the wall, by severing the withes that bound together the upright planks. +Before this could be effected, another party crept through the small +holes, serving the purpose of gates, and penetrated to the centre of the +town, where, assembling around the great council-tree, they gave three +cheers. The houses were then set on fire, and, within fifteen minutes, +presented one mass of conflagration. The palisades likewise caught the +flames, and were consumed, leaving an open space of blackened and smoking +ruins, where, half an hour before, the sun had shone upon a town. + +The natives did not remain idle spectators of the destruction of their +houses. Advancing to the edge of the woods, they discharged their muskets +at us, loaded not with Christian bullets, but with copper-slugs, probably +manufactured out of the spikes of the Mary Carver. A marine was struck in +the side by one of these missiles, which tumbled him over, but without +inflicting a serious wound. A party from our ship penetrated the woods +behind the town, where one of them fired at an object which he perceived +moving in the underbrush. Going up to the spot, it proved to be a very +aged man, apparently on the verge of a century, much emaciated, and too +feeble to crawl further in company with his flying towns-people. He was +unharmed by the shot, but evidently expected instant death, and held up +his hand in supplication. Our party placed the poor old patriarch in a +more sheltered spot, and left him there, after supplying him with food; an +act of humanity which must have seemed to him very singular, if not +absurd, in contrast with the mischief which we had wrought upon his home +and people. Meantime, the ships were disposed to have a share in the +fight, and opened a cannonade upon the woods, shattering the great +branches of the trees, and adding to the terror, if not to the loss, of +the enemy. Little Berebee being now a heap of ashes, we re-embarked, +taking with us an American flag, probably that of the Mary Carver, which +had been found in the town. We also made prizes of several canoes, one of +which was built for war, and capable of carrying forty men. The wounded +King Cracko, likewise, was taken on board the frigate, where, next +morning, he breathed his last; thus expiating the outrage in which, two +years before, he had been a principal actor. We afterwards understood that +the natives suffered a loss of eight killed and two wounded. + +15.--The season for palavers and diplomacy being now over, we landed at +seven o'clock this morning, ten or twelve miles below Berebee, in order to +measure out a further retribution to the natives. On approaching the +beach, we were fired upon from the bushes, but without damage, although +the enemy were sheltered within twenty yards of the water's edge. The +boat's crew first ashore, together with two or three marines, charged into +the shrubbery and drove off the assailants. All being disembarked, the +detachment was formed in line, and marched to the nearest town, which was +immediately attacked. Like the other native towns, it was protected by a +wall of high palisades, planted firmly in the soil, and bound together by +thongs of bamboo. Cutting a passage through these, we entered the place, +which contained perhaps a hundred houses, neatly built of wicker-work, and +having their high conical roofs thatched with palmetto-leaves. Such +edifices were in the highest degree combustible, and being set on fire, it +was worth while for a lover of the picturesque to watch the flames, as +they ran up the conical roofs, and meeting at the apex, whirled themselves +fiercely into the darkened air. + +While this was going on, the war-bells, drums, and war-horns of the +natives were continually sounding; and flocks of vultures (perhaps a more +accurate ornithologist might call them turkey-buzzards) appeared in the +sky, wheeling slowly and heavily over our heads. These ravenous birds +seemed to have a presentiment that there were deeds of valor to be done: +nor was it quite a comfortable idea, that some of them, ere nightfall, +might gratify their appetite at one's own personal expense. To confess the +truth, however, they were probably attracted by the scent of some +slaughtered bullocks; it being indifferent to a turkey-buzzard whether he +prey on a cow or a Christian. After destroying the first town, we marched +about a mile and a half up the beach, to attack a second. On our advance, +the marine drummer and fifer were ordered from the front of the column to +the rear, as being a position of less danger. They of course obeyed; but +the little drummer deeming it a reflection upon his courage, burst into +tears, and actually blubbered aloud as he beat the _pas de charge_. It +was a strange operation of manly spirit in a boyish stage of development. + +As we approached the second town, our boat-keepers, who watched the scene, +distinctly saw a party of thirty or forty natives lying behind a palisade, +with their guns pointed at our advanced guard. Unconscious that the enemy +were so near, we halted for an instant, about forty yards from the town, +and then advanced at a run. This so disconcerted the defenders that they +fled, after firing only a few shots, none of which took effect. In fact, +the natives proved themselves but miserable marksmen. They can seldom hit +an object in motion, although, if a man stand still, they sometimes manage +to put a copper-slug into his body, by taking aim a long time. After +firing, the savage runs a long distance before he ventures to load. Had +their skill or their hardihood been greater, we must have suffered +severely; for the woods extended nearly to the water's edge, and exposed +us, during the whole day, to the fire of a sheltered and invisible enemy. + +After the storm and conflagration of the second town, we took a brief +rest, and then proceeded to capture and burn another, situated about a +mile to the northward. This accomplished, we judged it to be dinner-time. +Indeed, we had done work enough to ensure an appetite; and history does +not make mention, so far as I am aware, of such destruction of cities so +expeditiously effected. Having emptied our baskets, we advanced about +three miles along the beach--still with the slugs of the enemy whistling +in our ears--and gave to the devouring element another town. Man is +perhaps never happier than when his native destructiveness can be freely +exercised, and with the benevolent complacency of performing a good +action, instead of the remorse of perpetrating a bad one. It unites the +charms of sin and virtue. Thus, in all probability, few of us had ever +spent a day of higher enjoyment than this, when we roamed about, with a +musket in one hand and a torch in the other, devastating what had hitherto +been the homes of a people. + +One of the sweetest spots that I have seen in Africa, was a little hamlet +of three houses, standing apart from the four large towns above-mentioned, +and surrounded by an impervious hedge of thorn-bushes, with two palisaded +entrances. Forcing our way through one of these narrow portals, we beheld +a grassy area of about fifty yards across, overshadowed by a tree of very +dense foliage, which had its massive roots in the centre, and spread its +great protecting branches over the whole enclosure. The three dwellings +were of the same sort of basket-work as those already described, but +particularly neat, and giving a pleasant impression of the domestic life +of their inhabitants. This small, secluded hamlet had probably been the +residence of one family, a patriarch, perhaps, with his descendants to the +third or fourth generation--who, beneath that shadowy tree, must have +enjoyed all the happiness of which uncultivated man is susceptible. Nor +would it be too great a stretch of liberality, to suppose that the green +hedge of impervious thorns had kept out the vices of their race, and that +the little area within was a sphere where all the virtues of the native +African had been put in daily practice. These three dwellings, and the +verdant wall around them, and the great tree that brooded over the whole, +might unquestionably have been spared, with safety to our consciences. But +when man takes upon himself the office of an avenger by the sword, he is +not to be perplexed with such little scrupulosities, as whether one +individual or family be less guilty than the rest. Providence, it is to be +presumed, will find some method of setting such matters right. In fine, +when the negro patriarch's strong sable sons supported their decrepit sire +homeward, with their wives, "black, but comely," bearing the glistening, +satin-skinned babies on their backs, and their other little ebony +responsibilities trudging in the rear, there must have been a dismal wail; +for there was the ancestral tree, its foliage shrivelled with fire, +stretching out its desolate arms over the ashes of the three wicker +dwellings. + +The business of the day was over. Besides short excursions, and charges +into the bush, the men had marched and countermarched at least twelve +miles upon the beach, with the surf sometimes rolling far beyond our +track. Some hundreds of slugs had been fired at us; and, on our part, we +had blazed away at every native who had ventured to show his face; but the +amount of casualties, after such a day of battle, reminds one of the +bloodless victories and defeats of an Italian army, during the middle +ages. In a word, we had but two men wounded; and whether any of the enemy +were killed or no, it is impossible to say. At all events, we slew a +number of neat cattle, eight or nine of which were sent on board the +ships, where they answered a much better purpose than as many human +carcasses. The other spoil consisted of several canoes, together with +numerous household utensils--which we shall bring home as trophies and +curiosities. There was also a chain cable, and many other articles +belonging to the Mary Carver, and a pocket-book, containing a letter +addressed to Captain Robert McFarland. The purport of the epistle is not a +matter of public interest; but it was written in a lady's delicate hand, +and was probably warm with affection; and little did the fair writer dream +that her missive would find its way into an African hut, where it was +probably regarded as a piece of witchcraft. + +Thus ended the warfare of Little Berebee. The degree of retribution meted +out had by no means exceeded what the original outrage demanded; and the +mode of it was sanctioned by the customs of the African people. According +to their unwritten laws, if individuals of a tribe commit a crime against +another tribe or nation, the criminal must either be delivered up, or +punished at home, or the tribe itself becomes responsible for their guilt. +An example was of peremptory necessity; and the American vessels trading +on the coast will long experience a good effect from this day's battle and +destruction. The story will be remembered in the black man's traditions, +and will have its due weight in many a palaver. Nevertheless, though the +burning of villages be a very pretty pastime, yet it leaves us in a +moralizing mood, as most pleasures are apt to do; and one would fain hope +that civilized man, in his controversies with the barbarian, will at +length cease to descend to the barbarian level, and may adopt some other +method of proving his superiority, than by his greater power to inflict +suffering. For myself personally, the "good old way" suits me tolerably +enough; but I am disinterestedly anxious that posterity should find a +better. + +16.--We sailed at day-light for Grand Berebee. Nearing the point on which +it is situated, the ships hoisted white flags at the fore, in token of +amity. A message was sent on shore to the King, who came off in a large +canoe, and set his hand to a treaty, promising to keep good faith with +American vessels. He likewise made himself responsible for the good +conduct of the other tribes in the vicinity. + +On board the Macedonian, there were five prisoners, who had been taken two +months ago, by the brig Porpoise. One was the eldest son of this King, and +the others belonged to his tribe. The meeting between the King and prince +was very affecting, and fully proved that nature has not left these wild +people destitute of warmth and tenderness of heart. They threw themselves +into each other's arms, wept, laughed, and danced for joy. To the King, +his son was like one risen from the dead; he had given him up for lost, +supposing that the young man had been executed. The prisoners were each +presented with a new frock and trowsers, besides tobacco, handkerchiefs, +and other suitable gifts. The prince received a lieutenant's old uniform +coat; and when they got into their canoe, it was amusing to see how +awkwardly he paddled, in this outlandish trim. He made two or three +attempts to get the coat off, but without success. One of his companions +then offered his assistance; but as he took the prince by the collar, +instead of the sleeve, it was found impracticable to rid him of the +garment. The more he pulled, the less it would come off; and the last we +saw of Prince Jumbo, he was holding up his skirts in one hand, and +paddling with the other. There will be grand rejoicings to-night, on the +return of the prisoners. All will be dancing and jollity; plays will be +performed; the villages will re-echo with the report of fire-arms and the +clamor of drums; and the whole population will hold a feast of bullocks. + +20.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. The natives here were alarmed at the return +of the three ships; and many of them carried away their moveables into the +woods. News of the destruction of the towns below had reached them several +days since. They have a simple, but very effective system of expresses. +When information of great interest is to be conveyed from tribe to tribe, +one of their swiftest runners is despatched, who makes what speed he can, +and, when tired, entrusts his message to another. Thus it is speeded on, +without a moment's delay. Should the runner encounter a river in his +course, he shouts his news across; it is caught up on the other side, and +immediately sent forward. In this manner, intelligence finds its way along +the coast with marvellous celerity. + +23.--We sailed two days ago. Yesterday, there came off from the shore, +some six or eight miles, a couple of canoes, paddled by six men each, who +exerted themselves to the utmost to overtake us. They had nothing to sell; +and their only object seemed to be, to obtain the particulars of the fight +and conflagration at Little Berebee, a hundred and fifty miles below. + +25.--Anchored at Monrovia, and landed Governor Roberts, who, with Dr. +Johnson, had been a passenger from Cape Palmas. + +28.--Sailed for Porto Praya, with the intention of visiting Madeira, +before returning to the coast. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Madeira--Aspect of the Island--Annual races--"Hail Columbia!"--Ladies, +Cavaliers, and Peasants--Dissertation upon Wines--The Clerks of +Funchal--Decay of the Wine-Trade--Cultivation of Pine-Trees--A Night in +the Streets--Beautiful Church--A Sunday-evening Party--Currency of +Madeira. + + +_January_ 19, 1844.--We made Madeira yesterday, but, the weather being +thick and squally, stood off and on until to-day. + +20. Our ship rides gently at her anchor. The Loo rock rises fifty feet +perpendicular from the water, at so short a distance, that we can hear the +drum beat tattoo in the small, inaccessible castle, on its summit. This +rock is the outpost of the city of Funchal. The city stretches along the +narrow strip of level ground, near the shore, with vine-clad hills rising +steeply behind. On the slopes of these eminences are many large houses, +surrounded with splendid gardens, and occupied by wealthy inhabitants, +chiefly Englishmen, who have retired upon their fortunes, or are still +engaged in business. On a height to the left, stands a castle of +considerable size, in good repair. High up among the hills, in bold +relief, is seen the church of Our Lady of the Mount, with its white walls +and two towers. The hills are rugged, steep, and furrowed with deep +ravines, along which, after the heavy rains of winter, the mountain +torrents dash headlong to the sea. + +My remarks on Madeira will be thrown together without the regularity of a +daily journal; for our visit to the island proves so delightful, that it +seems better worth the while to enjoy, than to describe it. + +The annual races are well attended. During their continuance, throngs of +passengers, on foot, on horseback, and in palanquins, are continually +proceeding to the course, a little more than a mile and a half from town. +The road thither constantly ascends, until you find yourself several +hundred feet above the sea, with an extensive prospect beneath and around. +A tolerable space for the track is here afforded by an oblong plain, +seven-eighths of a mile in length. Near the judges' stand was a large +collection of persons of all classes, ladies, dandies, peasants, and +jockeys. Here, too, were booths for the sale of eatables and drinkables, +and a band of music to enliven the scene. + +These musicians saw fit to honor us in a very particular manner. They had +all agreed to ship on board our vessel; and, with a view to please their +new masters, when three or four of our officers rode into the course, they +played "Hail Columbia." We took off our caps in acknowledgment, and +thought it all very fine. Directly afterwards, two other officers rode in, +and were likewise saluted with "Hail Columbia!" Anon, two or three of us +dismounted and strolled about among the people, thinking nothing of the +band, until we were reminded of their proximity by the old tune again. In +short, every motion on our part, however innocent and unpretending, caused +the hills of Madeira to resound with the echoes of our national air. +Finding that our position assumed a cast of the ridiculous, we gave the +leader to understand, that, if the tune were played again, the band's +first experience of maritime life should be a flogging at the gangway. The +hint was sufficient; not only did we hear no more of "Hail Columbia," but +none of the musicians ever came near the ship. + +With few exceptions the running was wretched. One or two of the +match-races (which were ten in number, all single heats, of a mile each) +were well contested. The first was run by two ponies; a fat black one with +a chubby boy on his back, and a red, which, as well as his rider, was in +better racing condition. The black was beaten out of sight. The second +race was by two other ponies, one of which took the lead, and evidently +had the heels of his antagonist. Suddenly, however, he bolted, and leaped +the wall, leaving the track to be trotted over by the slower colt. Two +grey horses succeeded, and made pretty running; but their riders, instead +of attending to business, joined hands, and rode a quarter of a mile in +this amiable attitude. Rather than antagonists, one would have taken them +for twin brethren, like two other famous horsemen, Castor and Pollux. To +the ladies this mode of racing appeared delightful; but the remarks of our +party, consisting of several English and American officers and gentlemen, +were anything but complimentary. The last quarter of this heat was well +run, one of the horses winning apparently by a neck. The judge, however, a +Portuguese, decided that it was a dead heat. + +At one extremity of the course, the hill rises abruptly; and here were +hundreds of persons of both sexes, in an excellent position to see the +running, and to impart a pretty effect to the scene. A large number of +peasantry were present, dressed in their peculiar costume, and taking +great interest in the whole matter. Both men and women wear a little blue +cap lined with scarlet, so small that one wonders how it sticks on the +head. In shape it is like an inverted funnel, running up to a sharp point. +The women have short, full dresses, with capes of a dark blue, trimmed +with a lighter blue, or of scarlet with blue trimming. These colors form a +sectional distinction; the girls of the north side of the island wearing +the scarlet capes, and those of the south side, the blue. In the intervals +of the races, ladies and gentlemen cantered round the course, and some of +them raced with their friends. Three Scottish ladies, with more youth than +beauty, and dressed in their plaids, made themselves conspicuous by their +bold riding, and quite carried off the palm of horsemanship from their +cavaliers. + +A sketch of Madeira would be incomplete indeed, without some mention of +its wines. Three years ago, when it was more a matter of personal +interest, I visited this island, and gained considerable information on +the subject. Madeira then produced about thirty thousand pipes annually, +one third of which was consumed on the island, one-third distilled into +brandy, and the remainder exported. About one-third of the exportation +went to the United States, and the balance to other parts of the world. +The best wines are principally sent to our own country--that is to say, +the best exported--for very little of the first-rate wine goes out of the +island. The process of adulteration is as thoroughly understood and +practised here, as anywhere else. The wine sent to the United States is a +kind that has been heated, to give it an artificial age. The mode of +operation is simply to pour the wine into large vats, and submit it for +several days to a heat of about 110º. After this ordeal, the wine is not +much improved by keeping. + +There are other modes of adulteration, into the mysteries of which I was +not admitted. One fact, communicated to me by an eminent wine-merchant, +may shake the faith of our connoisseurs as to the genuineness of their +favorite beverage. It is, that, from a single pipe of "mother wine," ten +pipes are manufactured by the help of inferior wine. This "mother wine" is +that which has been selected for its excellence, and is seldom exported +pure. The wines, when fresh from the vintage, are as various in their +flavor as our cider. It is by taste and _smell_ that the various kinds +are selected, after which the poorer wines are distilled into brandy, and +the better are put in cases, and placed in store to ripen. The liquor is +from time to time racked off, and otherwise managed until ready for +exportation. It is _invariably_ "treated" with brandy. French brandy was +formerly used, which being now prohibited, that of the island is +substituted, although of an inferior quality. + +Besides the "Madeira wine," so famous among convivialists, there are +others of higher price and superior estimation. There is the "Sercial," +distinguished by a kind of Poppy taste. There is the Malmsey, or "Ladies' +wine," and the "Vina Tinta," or Madeira Claret, as it is sometimes called. +The latter is made of the black grapes, in a peculiar manner. After being +pressed, the skins of the grapes are placed in a vat, where the juice is +poured upon them and suffered to stand several days, until it has taken +the hue required. The taste of this wine is between those of Port and +Claret. There is a remarkable difference in the quality of the vintages of +the north and south sides of the island; the former not being a third part +so valuable as the latter. The poorer classes drink an inferior and acid +wine. + +The vineyards are generally owned by rich proprietors, by whom they are +farmed out to the laborer, who pays half the produce when the wine has +been pressed; the government first taking its tenth. The grape-vines run +along frame-work, raised four or five feet from the ground, so as to allow +the cultivator room to weed the stalks beneath. The finest grapes are +those which grow upon the sunny side of a wall. At the season of vintage, +the grapes are placed in a kind of canoe, where they are first crushed by +men's feet (all wines, even the richest and purest, having this original +tincture of the human foot), and then pressed by a beam. + +Perhaps the very finest wines in the world are to be found collected at +the suppers given by the clerks, in the large mercantile houses of +Madeira. By an established custom, when one of their corps is about to +leave the island, he gives an entertainment, to which every guest +contributes a bottle or two of wine. It is a point of honor to produce the +best; and as the clerks know, quite as well as their principals, where the +best is to be found, and as the honor of their respective houses is to be +sustained, it may well be imagined that all the _bon-vivants_ on earth, +were they to meet at one table, could hardly produce such a variety of +fine old Madeira, as the clerks of Funchal then sip and descant upon. In +no place do mercantile clerks hold so respectable a position in society as +here; owing to the tacit understanding between their principals and +themselves, that, at some future day, they are to be admitted as partners +in the houses. This is so general a rule, that the clerk seems to hold a +social position scarcely inferior to that of the head of the +establishment. They prove their claim to this high consideration, by the +zeal with which they improve their minds and cultivate their manners, in +order to fill creditably the places to which they confidently aspire. + +At my second visit to Madeira, I find the wine trade at a very low ebb. +The demand from America, owing to temperance, the tariff, and partly to an +increased taste for Spanish, French, and German wines, is extremely small. +Not a cargo has been shipped thither for three years. The construction +given to the tariff, by the Secretary of the Treasury, will infuse new +life into the trade. + +The hills around the city of Funchal are covered with vineyards, as far up +as the grape will grow; then come the fields of vegetables; and the +plantations of pine for the supply of the city. The island took its name +from the great quantity of wood which overshadowed it, at its first +discovery. This being long ago exhausted, considerable attention is paid +to the cultivation of the pine-tree, which produces the most profitable +kind of wood. In twelve or thirteen years, it is fit for the market, and +commands a handsome price. Far up the mountains, we saw one plantation, in +which fifty or sixty acres had been covered with pines, within a few +years; some of the infant trees being only an inch high. Thus in the +course of a morning's ride, we ascend from the region of the laughing and +luxuriant vine, into that of the stately and sombre pine; it is like being +transported by enchantment from the genial clime of Madeira into the +rugged severity of a New England forest. + +In going up the mountain, the traveller encounters many peasants, both men +and women, with bundles of weeds for horses, and sticks for fire-wood, +which are carried upon the head. Thus laden, they walk several miles, and +perhaps sell their burthens for ten or twelve cents apiece. Articles +cannot easily be conveyed in any other manner, down the steep declivities +of the hills. In the city, burthens are drawn by oxen, on little drags, +which glide easily over the smooth, round pavements. The driver carries in +his hand a long mop without a handle, or what a sailor would term a "wet +swab." If any difficulty occur in drawing the load, this moist mop is +thrown before the drag, which readily glides over it. + +The beggars of Funchal are numerous and importunate, and many of them +wretched enough, as, in one instance, I had occasion to witness. With a +friend, I had quitted a ball at two o'clock in the morning. The porter of +our hotel, not expecting us at so late an hour, had retired; and, as all +the family slept in the back part of the house, we were unable to awaken +them by our long and furious knocking. Several Englishmen occupied the +front apartments, but scorned to give themselves any trouble about the +matter, except to breathe a slumberous execration against the disturbers +of their sleep. On the other hand, our anathemas were louder, and quite as +bitter upon these inhospitable inmates. Finally, after half an hour's +vigorous but ineffectual assault upon the portal, we retreated in despair, +and betook ourselves to walk the streets. The night was beautifully clear, +but too cool for the enervated frame of an African voyager. We were tired +with dancing, and occasionally sat down; but the door-steps were all of +stone, and, though we buttoned our coats closely, it was impossible to +remain long inactive. + +Near morning, we approached the door of the Cathedral, and were about to +seat ourselves, when we perceived a person crouching on the spot, and +apparently asleep. The slumber was not sound; for when we spoke, a young +girl, a mere rose-bud of a woman, about fourteen years of age, arose and +answered. She was very thinly clad; and, with her whole frame shivering, +the poor thing assumed an airy and mirthful deportment, to attract us. It +was grievous to imagine how many nights like this the unhappy girl was +doomed to pass, and that all her nights were such, unless when vice and +degradation procured her a temporary shelter. Ever since that hour, when I +picture the pleasant island of Madeira, with its sunshine, and its +vineyards, and its jovial inhabitants, the shadow of this miserable child +glides through the scene. + +One of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever seen, is the +English church, just outside of the city of Funchal. The edifice has no +steeple or bells, these being prohibited by the treaty between Portugal +and Great Britain, which permits the English protestants to erect +churches. You approach it through neat gravel walks, lined with the most +brilliant flowers, and these in such magnificent profusion, that the +building may be said to stand in the midst of a great flower-garden. The +aspect is certainly more agreeable, if not more appropriate, than that of +the tombstones and little hillocks which usually surround the sacred +edifice; it is one method of rendering the way to Heaven a path of +flowers. On entering the church, we perceive a circular apartment, lighted +by a dome of stained glass. The finish of the interior is perfectly neat, +but simple. The organ is fine-toned, and was skilfully played. Pleasant it +was to see again a church full of well-dressed English--those Saxon faces, +nearest of kin to our own--and to hear once more the familiar service, +after being so long shut out from consecrated walls! + +Sunday is not observed with much strictness, in Madeira. On the evening of +that day, I called at a friend's house, where thirty or forty persons, all +Portuguese, were collected, without invitation. Music, dancing, and cards, +were introduced for the entertainment of the guests. The elder portion sat +down to whist; and, in a corner of the large dancing room, one of the +gentlemen established a faro-bank, which attracted most of the company to +look on, or bet. So much more powerful were the cards than the ladies, +that it was found difficult to enlist gentlemen for a single cotillion. +After a while, dancing was abandoned, and cards ruled supreme. The married +ladies made bets as freely as the gentlemen; and several younger ones, +though more reserved, yet found courage to put down their small stakes. I +observed one sweet girl of sixteen, standing over the table, and watching +the game with intense interest. Methought the game within her bosom was +for a more serious stake than that upon the table, and better worth the +observer's notice. Who should win it?--her guardian angel? or the gambling +fiend? Alas, the latter! She bashfully drew a little purse from her bosom, +and put her stake down with the rest. + +The currency of Madeira is principally composed of the old-fashioned +twenty cent pieces, called cruzados, which pass at the rate of five for a +dollar. Payments of thousands of dollars are made in this coin, which, not +being profitable to remit, circulates from hand to hand. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Passage back to Liberia--Coffee Plantations--Dinner on Shore--Character of +Col. Hicks--Shells and Sentiment--Visit to the Council Chamber--the New +Georgia Representative--a Slave-Ship--Expedition up the St. Paul's--Sugar +Manufactory--Maumee's beautiful Grand-Daughter--the Sleepy Disease--the +Mangrove-Tree. + + + _February_ 29.--We are on our return to Liberia. The ship is destined to +cruise along the whole coast, from Cape Mesurado to the river Gaboon, +touching at all important and interesting points. It will present the best +opportunity yet enjoyed, to observe whatever things worthy of notice the +country can present. Hourly, as we approach the coast, we perceive the +difference in temperature. It is a grateful change, that of winter to +summer. Last night was as mild as a summer evening at home. I remained on +the forecastle till midnight, enjoying the moonlight, the soft air, and +the cheerful song of a cricket, which had been, in some manner, brought on +board at Porto Praya, a week ago. He seems to be the merriest of the crew, +and now nightly pipes to the forecastle men. + +Our ship slides along almost imperceptibly, yet gets over the sea +wonderfully well. She is a noble ship, stiff, fast, and dry. Her motion is +very easy, and her performance, whether in strong or light breezes, is +always excellent. Her grating-deck has been taken off, as it made her a +little top-heavy and uneasy, and detracted from her speed; and she is +infinitely better for the change. + +_March_ 2.--Anchored at Monrovia, in less than eight days from Porto +Praya, although the winds were light, most of the time. Several of our +Kroomen, who left us, two months ago, completely dressed in sailor-rig, +came on board with only a hat and a handkerchief, and forthwith proceeded +to haul upon the ropes, as before. + +6.--I have been walking through Judge Benedict's coffee-plantation, from +the condition of which I find little encouragement to persons disposed to +engage in the business. The trees are certainly not so thrifty, and are +apparently less in number than they were three years ago. There is little +or no weeding done; consequently, the plantation is overgrown with grass +and bushes, and looks as if the forest might, at no distant day, reclaim +its children. All the trees have been transplanted from the neighboring +woods, and, it is said, do not flourish so well as those raised from seed, +in nurseries. General Lewis has several thousand coffee-plants growing +from the seed, and, in two or three years, will have tested the +comparative advantages of this plan. + +I dined ashore to-day. At the table were a Dutchman, a Dane, four American +officers, and Colonel Hicks. All, except myself, were good talkers, and +composed a delightful dinnerparty. Colonel Hicks, of whom I have before +spoken in this Journal, is one of the most shrewd, active and agreeable +men in the colony. Once a slave in Kentucky, and afterwards in +New-Orleans, he is now a commission-merchant in Monrovia, doing a business +worth four or five thousand dollars per annum. Writing an elegant hand, he +uses this accomplishment to the best advantage by inditing letters, on all +occasions, to those who can give him business. If a French vessel shows +her flag in the harbor, the Colonel's Krooman takes a letter to the +master, written in his native language. If an American man-of-war, he +writes in English, offering his services, and naming some person as his +intimate friend, who will probably be known on board. Then he is so +hospitable, and his house always so neat, and his table so good--his lady, +moreover, is such a friendly, pleasant-tempered person, and so +good-looking, into the bargain--that it is really a fortunate day for the +stranger in Liberia, when he makes the acquaintance of Colonel and Mrs. +Hicks. Every day, after the business of the morning is concluded, the +Colonel dresses for dinner, which appears upon the table at three o'clock. +He presides with genuine elegance and taste; his stories are good, and his +quotations amusing. To be sure, he occasionally commits little mistakes, +such, for instance, as speaking of America as his Alma Mater; but, on the +whole, even without any allowance for a defective education, he appears +wonderfully well. One circumstance is too indicative of strong sense, as +well as good taste, not to be mentioned;--he is not ashamed of his color, +but speaks of it without constraint, and without effort. Most colored men +avoid alluding to their hue, thus betraying a morbid sensibility upon the +point, as if it were a disgraceful and afflicting dispensation. Altogether +the Colonel and his lady make many friends, and are as apparently happy, +and as truly respectable as any couple here or elsewhere. + +Coming to the beach, we found no boat; and nearly half an hour passed +before one arrived to take us on board. In the interim, I strolled along +the shore, picking up the small shells, which the waves had thrown in +abundance upon the sand. In the eye of a conchologist, they would have +been of little value, as all of them were common, and none possessed more +than a single valve. But the purple blush of the interior pleased me; and +what is more, I was gathering these trifles for a lady whom I have never +seen, yet whom I trust that I may venture to count among my friends. I +know that she will be pleased with the poor offering and its giver; for +each of these shells is linked with a thought that flew over the sea--from +the sunset shore of Africa to a fireside in New England--and returned +thence to the wanderer, bringing grateful fancies, reminiscences, and +hopes. It was a smiling half-hour. + +9.--Ashore, and in the council-chamber. It is a spacious apartment on the +second floor of the stone building recently erected for the purposes of a +Legislative Hall and Court-House. The Governor presided, sitting in a high +backed rocking-chair; which, by the by, the natives call a "Missionary +Horse." The colonial Secretary acted as chief-clerk, and Doctor Prout, in +gold-bowed spectacles, as his assistant. An ungainly lad, with big feet +and striped hose, seemed to engross in his own person the offices of +door-keeper, sergeant-at-arms, and page. The council proper consisted of +ten members, who sat at separate desks, arranged semi-circularly in front +of the Governor. The spectators occupied rude benches in the rear of the +members. + +The question before the council related to the building of a market-house +in Monrovia, at the expense of the commonwealth, as proposed in one of the +sections of a bill to form a city government. This being a matter of some +interest, each member expressed his views, but with such brevity that the +whole debate occupied scarcely forty minutes, although several individuals +spoke twice. This conciseness was less a virtue of choice than necessity, +being attributable chiefly to the fact, that the presiding officer set his +face against all vagaries of eloquence, and kept the speakers strictly to +the point. If one wandered in the least, he was instantly called to order, +and compelled to take his seat, upon the slightest deviation from the +rules of the house. One of the members was a wilder specimen of humanity +than even our legislative bodies at home have ever presented to an +admiring world. He was a re-captured African, representing New Georgia, an +uncouth figure of a man, who spoke very broken English, with great +earnestness, and much to the amusement of his brother counsellors and the +audience generally. I regret my inability to preserve either the matter or +the manner of so original an orator. + +Here, as in the various other situations in which I have seen him placed, +Governor Roberts acquitted himself as a dignified, manly, and sensible +person. Deriving his appointment from the Society at home, he can act with +more independence, in an official capacity, than if indebted to the voices +of the members for his position. + +15.--At sea again, on our way to Gallenas. + +17.--Fell in with the English brig-of-war Ferret. Our captain went on +board, and was told that she had been engaged with a large slaver, four +days ago. Previous to the action, the slave-ship went to Gallenas, where +the Ferret's pinnace was at anchor. She ran alongside of the boat, with +three guns out on a side, and her waist full of musketeers--a superiority +of force in view of which the pinnace did not venture to attack her; and +the ship took in nine hundred or a thousand slaves, and went off +unmolested. At sea, she encountered the Ferret, and was fired into +repeatedly by that vessel, during the night, but succeeded in making her +escape. The slaver was under Portuguese colors, and is said to have been +formerly the American ship Crawford, now owned by Spaniards, and bearing a +Spanish name. + +18.--Again came to an anchor at Monrovia. + +19.--Just returned from an excursion up the St. Paul's river. Three +officers, in company with Dr. Lugenbeel, left Monrovia seasonably in the +forenoon, in one of our boats, rowed--and well rowed too--by five Kroomen. +Near the village, we passed from the Mesurado river through Stockton's +creek, seven or eight miles, to the St. Paul's. Our first landing was at +the public farm, where the manufacture of sugar was going on. Twelve +Kroomen (whose power, in this country, is applied to as great a variety of +purposes as those of steam and water in our own) were turning the mill by +two long levers, walking round and round in one interminable circle, like +the horse in an old-fashioned bark-mill. Three or four boys fed the mill +with cane, which about a score of colonists were employed in cutting and +bringing in by small armsfull, from a field in the immediate vicinity. The +overseer, Mr. Moore, and a few other persons, were occupied in boiling the +cane-juice. Mr. Moore informed me that sixteen Kroomen were employed on +the premises, at three dollars per month, and twenty-five colonists at +sixty-two and a half cents a day, besides their food. This year, they make +about thirty barrels of sugar (which will cost at least twenty-five cents +per pound), and two pipes of molasses. The cane, now in process of +manufacture, is very small and unprofitable, all of the larger kind having +been already ground. The sugar-house is a wretched building, with a +thatched roof, and the sides roughly boarded like a cow-shed. There were +four boilers in full bubble, and ten thousand bees in full buzz about the +establishment; the insects bidding fair to hoard up more profit than the +sugar-manufacturers. + +Mr. Moore had accompanied the Niger expedition in the capacity of farmer, +and resided nine or ten months on the model farm, without undergoing the +prevalent sickness. While almost every white man perished, the colored +colonists all survived. A large amount of property was left in the charge +of Mr. Moore, and he returned with the expedition to England. As +superintendent of the public farm, he now receives from the Colonization +Society a salary of three hundred dollars. + +Leaving the farm, we soon entered the St. Paul's, a noble river, which +comes rolling onward from the yet unexplored interior of the country. +Following its course a mile or more towards the sea, we arrived at +Maumee's Town, a village of thirty or forty huts, where a considerable +slave-trade was carried on, until broken up by the colonists under +Governor Ashman. Old Maumee still resides here, and cherishes a bitter +hatred against the Liberians, and all Americans and Englishmen, as having +caused the ruin of her profitable commerce. The old hag was not now at +home, having obeyed the custom of the country by retiring to a more +secluded spot, for the purpose of nursing a sick granddaughter. The +persons who remained were quite uninteresting. The only noticeable group +was composed of two women, one lying flat on her face, with her head in +the other's lap. Her hair being combed out as straight as the tenacity of +its curls would allow, her friend was arranging it in that fine braid with +which it is customary to cover the head. + +Having procured a guide, we crossed the river, and, at the mouth of +Logan's creek, exchanged our boat for a large canoe, in which we followed +the windings of the deep and narrow inlet for nearly two miles. This +brought us to a village of six huts. Without ceremony, we entered the +dwelling of the old Queen (who was busied about her household affairs), +and looked around for her grand-daughter, to see whom was the principal +object of our excursion. On my former visit to Maumee's town, four or five +months ago, this girl excited a great deal of admiration by her beauty and +charming simplicity. She was then thirteen or fourteen years of age, a +bright mulatto, with large and soft black eyes, and the most brilliantly +white teeth in the world. Her figure, though small, is perfectly +symmetrical. She is the darling of the old Queen, whose affections exhaust +themselves upon her with all the passionate fire of her temperament--and +the more unreservedly, because the girl's own mother is dead. + +We entered the hut, as I have said, without ceremony, and looked about us +for the beautiful grand-daughter. But, on beholding the object of our +search, a kind of remorse or dread came over us, such as often affects +those who intrude upon the awfulness of slumber. The girl lay asleep in +the adjoining apartment on a mat that was spread over the hard ground, and +with no pillow beneath her cheek. One arm was by her side--the other above +her head--and she slept so quietly, and drew such imperceptible breath, +that I scarcely thought her alive. With some little difficulty she was +roused, and awoke with a frightened cry--a strange and broken murmur--as +if she were looking dimly out of her sleep, and knew not whether our +figures were real, or only the phantasies of a dream. Her eyes were wild +and glassy, and she seemed to be in pain. While awake, there was a nervous +twitching about her mouth and in her fingers; but, being again extended on +the mat, and left to herself, these symptoms of disquietude passed away; +and she almost immediately sank again into the deep and heavy sleep, in +which we found her. As her eyes gradually closed their lids, the sunbeams, +struggling through the small crevices between the reeds of the hut, +glimmered down about her head. Perhaps it was only the nervous motion of +her fingers; but it seemed as if she were trying to catch the golden rays +of the sun and make playthings of them--or else to draw them into her +soul, and illuminate the slumber that looked so misty and dark to us. + +This poor, doomed girl had been suffering--no, not suffering, for, except +when forcibly aroused, there appears to be no uneasiness--but she had been +lingering two months in a disease peculiar to Africa. It is called the +"sleepy disease," and is considered incurable. The persons attacked by it +are those who take little exercise, and live principally on vegetables, +particularly cassady and rice. Some ascribe it altogether to the cassady, +which is supposed to be strongly narcotic. Not improbably, the climate has +much influence, the disease being most prevalent in low and marshy +situations. Irresistible drowsiness continually weighs down the patient, +who can be kept awake only for the few moments needful to take a little +food. When this lethargy has lasted three or four months, death +comes--with a tread that the patient cannot hear, and makes the slumber +but a little more sound. + +I found the aspect of Maumee's beautiful grand-daughter inconceivably +affecting. It was strange to behold her so quietly involved in sleep--from +which it might be supposed she would awake so full of youthful life--and +yet to know that this was no refreshing slumber, but a spell in which she +was fading away from the eyes that loved her. Whatever might chance, be it +grief or joy, the effect would be the same. Whoever should shake her by +the arm--whether the accents of a friend fell feebly on her ear, or those +of strangers, like ourselves, the only response would be that troubled +cry, as of a spirit that hovered on the confines of both worlds, and could +have sympathy with neither. And yet, withal, it seemed so easy to cry to +her--"Awake! Enjoy your life! Cast off this noon-tide slumber!" But only +the peal of the last trumpet will summon her out of that mysterious sleep. + +On our return, we passed under the branches of the mangrove tree, and +pulled some of the long fruit or seed. This singular seed is about fifteen +or sixteen inches long, and in its greatest diameter not more than an +inch. It is round, heavy, and pointed at both ends. When ripe, it detaches +itself from a sort of acorn, to which the smaller end has been firmly +joined, and falls with sufficient force to implant itself deeply in the +mud. After a few days, it begins to shoot, and soon becomes a tall +mangrove. This tree has many strings to its bow; for, while the seed is +growing, as here described, the branches send down slender and cord-like +shoots, perhaps thirty feet long, and less than an inch in thickness. +These strike into the mud, and aid in giving sustenance to the tree. Thus +the Mangrove presents the appearance of a large tree, supported by +hundreds of lesser trunks, standing so thickly together as to be +impassable for even small animals. Therein it differs from the tree +described by Milton, to which it otherwise seems to bear an analogy:-- + + "In the ground + The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow + About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade, + High overarched, and echoing walks between!" + +Returning to the ship, we found it lighted up, and the Theatre about to +open. The scenery has been much improved, since the last performance, and +the actors are more perfect in their parts. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +The Theatre--Tribute to Governor Buchanan--Arrival at Settra Kroo--Jack +Purser--The Mission-School--Cleanliness of the Natives--Uses of the +Palm-Tree--Native Money--Mrs. Sawyer--Influence of her Character on the +Natives--Characteristics of English Merchant-Captains--Trade of England +with the African Coast. + + +_March_ 21.--The scenery of the theatre having been damaged by the rain, +the other night, it is spread out to dry, and will be re-painted. Much +interest is felt in the Drama, and the exertions of the performers are +rewarded with full houses nightly. Some of the actors have evidently +trodden other boards than these. Among two hundred men, many of whom have +led wild and dissipated lives on shore, it is easy to suppose that enough +are familiar with the theatre in front of the curtain, and a few behind +it. Thus a tolerable company has been collected, needing only a few female +recruits to render it perfect. The dresses and scenery were procured by +general subscription, and are showy as well as appropriate; and many a +manager might deem himself fortunate to engage the whole corps, with +wardrobe and decorations included, for a summer campaign. On board ship, +our buskined heroes are of more importance than Booth, Forrest, or +Macready ashore, as affording amusement to a set of fellows who would have +precious little of it, without this resource. + +22.--At 3 P.M. up anchor for the leeward, and stand off with a good +breeze. + +23.--We have passed Bassa Cove, merely sending in some letters by a +Kroo-canoe, which boarded us. A considerable settlement of colonists is +established here. Many of their houses are visible along the shore, while +two smaller villages, in the immediate vicinity, are concealed by the +woods. The bar at this place has a bad reputation; several boats having +been swamped in passing it. In 1836, ten persons, including a midshipman +and purser's clerk, were drowned here, by the capsizing of a boat +belonging to the frigate Potomac. + +At Bassa Cove, in 1842, died Thomas Buchanan, Governor of Liberia; a man +who has identified his name with the existence of the colony, by his +successful exertions to promote its strength and respectability. No other +person had done so much to impress the natives with awe and respect for +the colonists, and to give Liberia an independent position in the eyes of +foreigners. A year before his death, it was my good fortune to be a +shipmate of this great and excellent man; for great and excellent I do not +hesitate to call him, although the remoteness of his sphere of action has +left his name comparatively obscure. Like all who came in contact with +him, I was deeply impressed with his pure, high, determined, and chivalric +character. In a grove, near the village, he selected a spot for his +burial; and there rest the remains of a finished gentleman, an +accomplished scholar, a fearless soldier, a wise legislator, an ardent +philanthropist, and a sincere Christian. So long as Liberia shall have a +history, Governor Buchanan will be remembered in it. Honor to his ashes! + +24.--Sunday. No service to-day, in consequence of a heavy rain, which +commenced at nine in the morning, and continued till one in the afternoon. +In the evening, four or five miles from land, we were boarded by the mate +of an English brig, at anchor off Grand Botton. He seemed a well-disposed, +off-hand man, telling us, among other things, that he had run away from +the U.S. schooner Enterprise, in the Pacific ocean, four years ago. This +was rather a hazardous communication to make, on the deck of a national +vessel; and it so happened that one of our lieutenants was in the +Enterprise, at the time referred to, and remembered the circumstance and +the man. However, as he had put confidence in us, we did not molest him. + +25.--Anchored at Settra Kroo. + +26.--Ashore, and dined upon roasted oysters, in a native hut. A large, +shrewd Krooman, Jack Purser by name, seems to be the most important +private individual here. He is the great tradesman of the place, and very +accommodating in his mode of transacting business. We saw a specimen of +his dealings with the natives. Being told that we wanted wood, he sent +intelligence through the town; and, directly, many women and girls flocked +to his house, each with a bundle of wood upon her head, which she +deposited near the door. After twenty or thirty loads had been brought, +Jack Purser came forth with a bundle of tobacco under his arm, and threw +the price of each load upon the wood, one, two, or three leaves of +tobacco, according to its size. There was no haggling, as is invariably +the case when a white man is the customer, but all assented to the +decision of the trademan. Jack Purser is a man of fortune, if the number +of his wives, twenty-nine, be a criterion. + +I saw a native doctor making his "greegree," or charm, for rain. There +were two large mortars, with leaves, bark, and roots, in each, and a long +vine extending from one to the other. Into these mortars he poured water, +until it ran over. + +27.--Dined on shore, at Mrs. Sawyer's. The repast consisted of bits of +mutton in palm-butter, mutton roasted, rice, palm-cabbage, chicken, and +papaw, with coffee, but no wine. There are thirty children in the +Mission-school, mostly boys, who show considerable aptitude for learning. +It is an obstacle in the way of educating girls, that many of them are +betrothed before entering school, and, just when their progress begins to +be satisfactory, their husbands claim them and take them away. Mr. Wilson +adopted the plan of taking the pair of betrothed ones; and, after pursuing +their studies in unison (doubtless including the conjugation of the verb, +to love), they left the school together. + +One of the scholars, a little fellow called Robert Soutter, took a strange +fancy to me, and followed everywhere at my heels, expressing a strong wish +to accompany me to Big America. When we returned to the ship, he actually +jumped into the boat, without saying a word, and came off, ready for the +voyage. To be sure, there were few preparations requisite to rig him out. +A handkerchief about his loins comprised all the earthly goods of Robert +Soutter. + +The houses at Settra Kroo are often two stories high, with piazzas round +the whole. The entrance to the upper story is by a ladder from without. +Like other native houses, they are built with bamboo, and thatched. There +being a war with other portions of the Kroo-people, the Beachmen have been +obliged to plant cassada in the town itself, instead of the neighboring +fields. Hence high fences are necessary to keep out the cattle; and these, +being irregular, make it a kind of labyrinth for a stranger. The place is +one of the best on the coast for watering ships, in the dry season. A +large stream of sweet and clear water runs through a grove of palm-trees, +to the sea. Hither come all the women of the village, in the old +scriptural fashion, with the water-jar, holding three or four gallons, on +the head. The consumption of water by the natives is very great. Whether +it be part of their religious ritual, I know not--although cleanliness is +in itself a religion--but the whole population wash themselves from head +to foot, at least twice a day, in fresh water, when to be procured. These +naked people, however, are as much averse as ourselves to being wet by the +rain; and every man of consequence has his umbrella, to protect him both +from sun and shower. + +Palm-trees are more abundant here, than in any place which I have visited +on the coast. No tree, as has been said a thousand times, is so useful as +the palm. It gives a good shade, and is pleasing as an ornamental tree. +The palm-nut is very palatable and nutritious for food, and likewise +affords oil, the kernel as well as the pulpy substance being available for +that purpose. Palm-wine is the sap of the tree; and its top furnishes a +most delicious dish, called palm-cabbage. The trunk supplies fire-wood, +and timber for building fences. From the fibres of the wood is +manufactured a strong cordage, and a kind of native cloth; and the leaves, +besides being used for thatching houses, are converted into hats. If +nature had given the inhabitants of Africa nothing else, this one gift of +the palm-tree would have included food, drink, clothing, and habitation, +and the gratuitous boon of beauty, into the bargain. + +I have procured some of the country-money. It is more curious than +convenient. The "Manilly," worth a dollar and a half, would be a fearful +currency to make large payments in, being composed of old brass kettles, +melted up, and cast in a sand-mould. The weight is from two to four +pounds; so that the circulation of this country may be said to rest upon a +pretty solid metallic basis. The "Buyapart," valued at twenty-five cents, +is a piece of cloth four inches square, covered thickly over with the +small shells called cowries, sewed on. The other currency consists +principally in such goods as have an established value. Brass kettles, +cotton handkerchiefs, tobacco, guns, and kegs of powder, are legal tender. +[Footnote: Specimens of the native money have been presented by the author +to the National Institute at Washington.] + +29.--Mrs. Sawyer was on board yesterday. It is not without regret that we +part with this interesting, energetic, and truly Christian woman. She is +the only white person here, and lives alone among a tribe of savages, as +safe, and perhaps more so, than in a civilized city. The occasional visits +of vessels of war prevent any evil-minded person from molesting her; but +she has little need of guardianship of this nature; for her own kind acts, +and purity of character, will always ensure her the respect of the +natives. Mrs. S. told us, that, before her husband died, the war-king of +the Settra Kroos had quarrelled with him, and was his enemy at the time of +his death. Not long afterwards, this war-king came to Mrs. Sawyer, and +assured her of his protection and assistance to the utmost of his power, +which is very great, as he commands all the fighting-men of the tribe. I +know not that the power of feminine excellence has ever been more +strikingly acknowledged, than by this act of an incensed and barbarous +warrior. Somewhat of her influence, as well as that of the missionaries +generally, is probably owing to her color. Many of the natives look with +contempt on the colonists, and do not hesitate to tell them that they are +merely liberated slaves. On the other hand, the colonists will never +recognize the natives otherwise than as heathen. Amalgamation is scarcely +more difficult between the white and colored races in America, than it is +in Africa, between the "black-white" colonist and the unadulterated +native. + +On our arrival here, we found an English brig, whose commander has been +once on board of us. He has a large assortment of trade-goods of all +sorts, and his vessel is fitted up with a view to comfort in living, as +well as the convenience of trade. + +A native colored woman has her residence on board, as his washerwoman and +stewardess, and likewise, if the captain be not belied, in a more intimate +relation. To-day, also, came in another English brig, the master of which +has a female companion, filling the same variety of offices as the former. +Many of the English trading vessels retain such persons on board, during +the whole time they are on the coast. The masters, so far as we have had +opportunity to observe, have generally been hard-drinking unscrupulous +men. Few of them hesitate to avow their readiness to furnish slavers with +goods, equally with any other purchasers, if they can make their profit, +and get their pay. There is great jealousy among the traders, and much +underhand work to get the business from each other. They have native +trade-men in their interest, all along the coast, watching their rivals, +and preparing to take any advantage that may offer. Profound secrecy is +observed as to their movements and intentions. The crews of some vessels +are seldom allowed to visit the shore, lest they should give information +about the affairs of the master. + +Not a few of the reports about American slavers spring from this jealousy +of trade. The masters of English merchant-vessels, jealous of the +Americans, and desirous to engross the trade to themselves, report them to +the British cruisers as suspicious vessels. The cruiser, if he give too +ready credence to the calumny, will probably overhaul the American, and +perhaps break up his voyage; he being, nevertheless, as honest as any +trader on the coast. But the ends of the Englishman are answered; he sells +his cargo, and cares little about the diplomatic correspondence that may +ensue, and the possible embroilment of the two nations. + +English vessels far outnumber all others on the coast. Dr. Madden, the +commissioner to examine the condition of the British colonial settlements, +reports the total imports into England from the West Coast of Africa, in +1836, at £800,000. In 1840, the exports of British products to Africa +amounted to £492,128, in the transportation of which, 72,000 tons of +shipping were employed. The government and people of England are giving +great attention to this coast, as an important theatre of trade. + +A committee of the House of Commons, in 1842, made extensive and minute +inquiries into the subject, and published a great mass of interesting +information. They recommended, that the Crown should resume the +jurisdiction of several forts, on the Gold Coast, which have been given up +to a committee of merchants; and that there be new settlements +established, and block-houses erected at various points. + +The English have lost the gum-trade, by the French subsidizing the King of +the Trazars, who holds the key to the gum-country; and the mahogany-trade +has been destroyed by that of Honduras, the wood from which is of a better +quality. The experiment on the part of the English, of carrying African +rice to compete with that of America, has likewise failed. + +The subject of American Trade with the west of Africa is so important, +that it may be well to devote a separate chapter to some account of its +nature, and the methods of carrying it on. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +American Trade--Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales--Standard of +Commercial Integrity--Dealings with Slave-Traders--Trade with the +Natives--King's "Dash"--Native Commission-Merchants--The Gold Trade-The +Ivory Trade--The "Round Trade"--Respectability of American +Merchant-Captains--Trade with the American Squadron. + + +More vessels come to the coast of Africa from Salem than from any other +port in the United States; although New York, Boston, and Providence, all +have their regular traders. Some of these trade chiefly to Gambia or +Sierra Leone; others to Gallinas, Monrovia and down the coast, touching at +different points. Others, again, go to the Gaboon river, and the islands +of Princes and St. Thomas; and some stretch still farther south, to +Benguela, and beyond. Most American vessels bring provisions, such as +flour, ship-bread, beef, pork, and hams, which are bought chiefly by the +European or American colonists. The natives, however, are yearly acquiring +a taste for them. The market being often overstocked, this part of the +trade is precarious. Other exports are furniture, boots and shoes, wooden +clocks, and all articles of American manufacture, or such as are used +among civilized men. All the vessels bring New England rum, leaf-tobacco, +powder, guns, large brass pans, and cotton cloth. On these points, a great +deal of correct information has been given by Dr. Hall, and may be found +in some of the numbers of the African Repository. + +The mode of trading has some peculiarities. On arriving at a civilized +settlement, the captain sends his "list" ashore to some resident merchant. +This list contains a schedule of his cargo, with the prices of each +article annexed, and the kind of pay required. Some take only cash. Most +vessels, however, take the productions of the country at a stipulated +price; for instance, camwood at, say, sixty dollars per ton, palm-oil, at +twenty-five to thirty-three cents per gallon, ivory, ground or peanuts, +gold dust, and gum. At the Cape de Verd islands, salt, goat-skins, and +hides, are the chief commodities received in exchange; at Gambia, hides; +at Monrovia, Cape Palmas, and other settlements in Liberia, camwood and +palm-oil are the great staples. There is likewise some ivory, but not in +large quantity. On the Gold Coast, the trade is in gold-dust and palm-oil; +at the Gaboon, in ivory and gold-dust,--and at Benguela, in gum. + +The "list" being put up conspicuously in the merchant's store (such being +the method of advertising in Liberia, where the newspapers are not made +use of, for this purpose), the traders, purchasers, and idlers, come to +see what is for sale. The store becomes, for the time being, the public +Exchange of the settlement, where people assemble, not merely with +commercial views, but to hear the intelligence from abroad, and to diffuse +it thence throughout the country. In due time, the captain comes on shore +with his samples, and individual purchasers bargain for what they want. +The captain receives payment, whether in cash or commodities, and weighs +the camwood, or measures the palm-oil, at the merchant's store. If credit +be given, the merchant is responsible, and receives a perquisite of five +per cent on all sales. The captain takes up his residence on shore, and +sends for goods from his vessel, as they are wanted; while the mate and +crew remain on board, to despatch and receive the cargo. Every vessel has +in its employ several Kroomen, by whom all the boat-service is performed. + +When the demand for goods appears to have ceased, the captain either takes +his unsold cargo away, or leaves a portion to be disposed of in his +absence, and sets sail for another settlement. Here the same process is +gone through with, and so on, until the cargo is sold. The captain then +turns back, touching at the several places where he has left goods, to +receive the proceeds, and thence home to America, for a new cargo. Regular +traders have numerous orders to fill up, from persons resident on the +coast; taking care, of course, to allow themselves a good profit for their +trouble and freight. The trade with the colonists is easy and sufficiently +plain; the only difficulty being the somewhat essential one of obtaining +payment. Colonial traders, in abundance, are eager to buy on credit; but, +possessing little or no capital, they often fail to satisfy their +obligations at the period assigned--if, indeed, they ever pay at all. +Commercial integrity is not here of so high an order as in older +countries, where the great body of merchants have established a standard +of rectitude, which individuals must not venture to transgress. + +Another large branch of business is at places where the slave-trade is +carried on; as at Gallinas and Wydah. Here, provisions, guns, powder, +cotton cloths, and other goods, suitable for the purchase or subsistence +of slaves, are sold at good prices for cash, or bills of exchange. The +bills of Pedro Blanco, the notorious slave-dealer at Gallinas, on an +eminent Spanish house in New York, and another in London, are taken as +readily as cash. A large number of the vessels engaged in the African +trade, whether English or American, do a considerable part of their +business either with the slavers, or with natives settled at the +slave-marts, and who, from their connection with the trade, have plenty of +money. Some of the large English houses give orders to their captains and +supercargoes not to traffic with men reputed to be slave-dealers; but, if +a purchaser come with money in his hand, and offer liberal prices, it +requires a tenderer conscience and sterner integrity than are usually met +with, on the coast of Africa, to resist the temptation. The merchant at +home, possibly, is supposed to know nothing of all this. It is quite an +interesting moral question, however, how far either Old or New England can +be pronounced free from the guilt and odium of the slave trade, while, +with so little indirectness, they both share its profits and contribute +essential aid to its prosecution. + +The method of trade with the natives is more tedious than that with the +colonists, and differs entirely in its character. On anchoring at a +trade-place, it is necessary, first of all, to pay the King his "dash," or +present, varying in value from twenty dollars to seven or eight hundred. +Such sums as the latter are paid only by ships of eight hundred or a +thousand tons,--and in the great rivers, as Bonny or Calebar. The "dash" +may be considered as equivalent to the duties levied on foreign imports, +in civilized countries; and doubtless, as in those cases, the trader +remunerates himself by an enhanced price upon his merchandize. + +The King being "dashed" to his satisfaction, trade commences. The canoes +bring off the articles which the natives have for sale; and the goods of +the vessel are exhibited in return. At first, it is a slow process; either +party offering little for the commodity of the other, and asking much for +his own. But, in a few days, prices becoming established on both sides, +business grows brisk, and flags only when one party has little more to +exchange. Native agents are employed by the stranger; some being Kroomen +attached to the vessel, and others trade-men, inhabiting the native towns. +These men, in addition to their small regular pay, continually receive +presents, which are necessary in order to excite their activity and zeal. + +There is still another mode of trading, resorted to by many masters of +vessels. They entrust quantities of goods--varying in value from a +trifling sum up to a thousand dollars, or even more--to native trade-men. +With these, or part of them, the trade-man goes into the interior, makes +trade with the Bushmen, and brings the proceeds to his employer. These +native agents are sometimes trusted with large amounts, for several months +together, and not unfrequently give their principal great trouble in +collecting his dues. Their families, to be sure, are held responsible, and +the King is bound to enforce payment. Nevertheless, if so disposed, they +can procrastinate, and finally cheat their creditor out of his debt; +especially as the vessel cannot remain long upon the coast, awaiting the +King's tardy methods of compulsion. + +On the Gold Coast, each vessel employs a native who is called its +"gold-taker," and is skilful in detecting spurious metal. The gold-dust is +brought for sale, wrapped up in numerous coverings, to avoid waste. It is +tested by acids; or, more commonly, by rubbing the gold on the +"black-stone," when the color of the mark, which it leaves upon the stone, +decides the character of the metal. The gold, after its weight has been +ascertained, is put by the captain into little barrels, holding perhaps +half a pint, and with the top screwing tightly on. This "glittering dust" +(to use the phrase which moralists are fond of applying to worldly pelf), +commands from sixteen to eighteen dollars per ounce, in England and the +United States. It is gathered from the sands which the rivers of Africa +wash down from the golden mountains; and, when offered for sale, small +lumps of gold and rudely manufactured rings are sometimes found among the +dust--ornaments that have perhaps been worn by sable monarchs, or their +sultanas, in the interior of the country. + +In the ivory trade, small teeth (comprising all that weigh less than +twenty pounds) are considered to be worth but half the price, per pound, +that is paid for large teeth. From fifty cents to a dollar is the ordinary +value of a pound of ivory. Some large teeth sell for a hundred dollars, or +even a hundred and fifty. The sale of such a gigantic tusk, as may well be +supposed, is considered an affair of almost national importance, and the +bargain can only be adjusted through the medium of a "big palaver." The +trade in ivory is now on the decline; the demand in England and France not +being so great as formerly, and America never having presented a good +market for the article. + +Palm-oil is brought from the interior, on the heads of the natives, in +calabashes, containing two or three gallons each. In speaking of the +interior, however, a comparatively short distance from the coast is to be +understood. Gold, where great value is concentrated into small bulk, and +some ivory, may occasionally come from remote regions; but the vast inland +tracts of the African continent have little to do, either directly or +indirectly, with the commerce of the civilized world. + +In dealing with the natives, there was formerly a system much in vogue, +but now going out of use, called the "round trade." The method was, to +offer one of each article; for instance, one gun, one cutlass, one flint, +one brass kettle, one needle, and so on, from the commodity of greatest +value down to the least. In all traffic there is a desire on the part of +the native to obtain as great a variety as his means will compass. If the +native commodity on sale be valuable, the captain offers two or more of +his guns, cutlasses, flints, brass kettles, and needles; if it be small, +and of trifling value, he perhaps exhibits only a flint and a needle as an +equivalent. The native of course tries to get the most valuable, and the +purchaser to pay the least. If the former demand a piece of cloth, and if +it be refused by the captain, the native then asks what he will "room" it +with. The captain, it may be, proposes to substitute a needle; and, after +much talk, the troublesome bargain is thus brought to a point. English +vessels usually have supercargoes; the Americans are seldom so provided. +But the American captains, on the other hand, are respectable, +intelligent, and trustworthy men, almost without exception. The exigencies +of the trade require such men; and any defect, either of capacity or +integrity, would soon be brought to light by the onerous duties and +responsibilities imposed upon them. Great latitude must be allowed them, +or the voyage cannot be expected to turn out profitably. They perform the +double duty of master and supercargo, and perhaps with the more success, +as there can be no disunion or difference of judgment. These captains are +likewise often part owners of vessel and cargo. + +Since the African coast has been made the cruising ground of an American +squadron, the merchantmen have brought out stores, with the expectation of +disposing of them to the ships of war. Some of these speculations have +turned out very profitable; but now, when the Government understands and +has made provisions for the wants of the station, this market is not to be +relied upon. To the officers, indeed, there is a chance, though by no +means a certainty, of selling mess-stores. The prices charged by +merchantmen correspond with the scarcity of the article, and are sometimes +enormous. I have known nine dollars a barrel asked for Irish, or rather +Yankee potatoes, and have paid my share for a small quantity, at that +rate. To those who see this vegetable daily on their tables, it may seem +strange that men should value a potatoe five times as highly as an orange. +After eating yams and cassada, however, for months together, one learns +how to appreciate a mealy potatoe, the absence of which cannot be +compensated by the most delicious of tropical fruits. Adam's fare in +Paradise might have been much improved, had Eve known how to boil +potatoes; nor, perhaps, would the fatal apple have been so tempting. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Jack Purser's wife--Fever on Board--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Strange Figure +and Equipage of a Missionary--King George of Grand Bassam--Intercourse +with the Natives--Tahon--Grand Drewin--St. Andrew's--Picaninny +Lahoo--Natives attacked by the French--Visit of King Peter--Sketches of +Scenery and People at Cape Labon. + + +_March_ 30.--Got under way, at daylight, and stood down the coast. + +I recollect nothing else, at Settra Kroo, that requires description, +unless it be the person and garb of a native lady of fashion. Sitting with +my friend Jack Purser, yesterday, a young woman came up, with a pipe in +her mouth. A cloth around her loins, dyed with gay colors, composed her +whole drapery, leaving her figure as fully exposed as the most classic +sculptor could have wished. It is to be observed, however, that the sable +hue is in itself a kind of veil, and takes away from that sense of nudity +which would so oppress the eye, were a woman of our own race to present +herself so scantily attired. The native lady in question was tall, finely +shaped, and would have been not a little attractive, but for the white +clay with which she had seen fit to smear her face and bosom. Around her +ankles were many rows of blue beads, which also encircled her leg below +the knee, thus supplying the place of garters, although stockings were +dispensed with. Her smile was pleasant, and her disposition seemed +agreeable; and, certainly, if the rest of Jack Purser's wives (for this +was one of the nine-and-twenty) be so well-fitted to make him happy, the +sum total of his conjugal felicity must be enormous! + +31.--Sunday. An oppressively hot day. There are three new cases of fever, +making fourteen in all, besides sixteen or seventeen of other complaints. +There is some apprehension that we are to have general sickness on board. + +_April_ 1.--Off Cape Palmas. A canoe being sent ashore, returned with a +letter from the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, stating that two missionaries wish +for a passage to the Gaboon, and making so strong an appeal that the +captain's sympathies could not resist it. So we run in and anchor. + +2.--Went ashore in the gig, and amused myself by reading the newspapers at +the Governor's, while the captain rode out to the mission establishment, +at Mount Vaughan. During my stay, one of the new missionaries, a native of +Kentucky, came in from Mount Vaughan, and rode up to the Government House, +in country style. He was in a little wagon, drawn by eight natives, and +sat bolt upright, with an umbrella over his head. The maligners of the +priesthood, in all ages and countries, have accused them of wishing to +ride on the necks of the people; but I never before saw so nearly literal +an exemplification of the fact. In its metaphorical sense, indeed, I +should be very far from casting such an imputation upon the zealous and +single-minded missionary before me. He is a man of eminent figure, at +least six feet and three inches high, with a tremendous nose, vast in its +longitude and depth, but wonderfully thin across the edge. It was curious +to meet, in Africa, a person so strongly imbued with the peculiarities of +his section of our native land; for his manner had the real Western swing, +and his dialect was more marked than is usual among educated men. With a +native audience, however, this is a matter of no moment. + +We were told that the Roman Catholics are about to leave Cape Palmas, and +establish branches of their mission at the different French stations on +the coast, under the patronage of Louis Philippe. The Presbyterians have +all gone to the Gaboon river. The Episcopal Mission pines at Cape Palmas, +and will probably be removed. The discord between its members and the +Colonial Government continues with unabated bitterness. Mr. Hazlehurst +regrets that the missionaries were identified with the colonists, in our +great palaver with the four-and-twenty kings and headmen, at Cape Palmas. +He believes, that, in case of any outbreak of the natives, the +missionaries on the out stations would fall the first victims. His +sentiments, it must be admitted, are such as it behoves a minister of +religion to entertain, in so far as he would repudiate military force as +an agent for sustaining the cause of missions. + +We sailed at noon for the leeward without the missionaries, who declined +taking passage, as it is doubtful whether the ship will proceed beyond +Cape Coast Castle. We have now fifteen cases of fever, most of them mild +in character. The prospect of sickness will cut short our leeward cruise. + +4.--Off Tahoo. The natives have come on board, with fowls, ivory, and +monkey-skins, to "make trade." Tobacco is the article chiefly sought for +in exchange. A large canoe came off, with a small English flag displayed, +and a native in regimentals standing erect; a most unusual and +inconvenient posture to be maintained in a canoe. Mounting the ship's +side, he proved to be no less a man than King George of Grand Bassam. His +majesty wore a military frock trimmed with yellow, two worsted epaulettes +on his shoulders, and an English hussar-cap on his head, with the motto +FULGOR ET HONOS. A cloth around his loins completed his heterogeneous +equipment. In the canoe was a small bullock, tied by the feet, together +with several ducks, chickens, kids, and plantains. The bullock and one +duck were presented to the captain by way of "dash;" always the most +expensive mode of procuring provisions, for, unless you dash the donor to +at least an equal extent, he will certainly importune you for more. King +George remarked that the other articles in the canoe belonged to the boys, +and were for sale. They refused to sell them, however, until the King, +after eating and drinking his fill in the cabin, went out, and engaged in +the traffic at once. The liquor brought out his real character; and this +royal personage scolded and haggled like a private trader, and a sharp one +too. + +Having sold his stock, and received much more than its value, his majesty +thought it not beneath his station to beg, and thus obtain divers odd +things for his wardrobe and larder. When he could get no more, he finally +took his leave, carrying off the remains of the food which had been set +before him, without so much as an apology. + +We have been running along that portion of the coast, where, three months +ago, we burned the native towns. No attempt has yet been made to rebuild +them, for fear of a second hostile visit from the ships; but the natives +have indirectly applied to the Commodore for permission to do so, and it +will probably be granted, on their pledging themselves to good behavior. + +5.--At anchor off Grand Berebee. All day, the ship has been thronged with +natives. They are civil at first, but almost universally display a bad +trait of character, by altering their manners for the worse, in proportion +to the kindness shown them. As they acquire confidence, they become +importunate, and almost impudent. Every canoe brings something to sell. It +is amusing to see these people paddling alongside with two or three +chickens tied round their necks, and hanging down their backs, with an +occasional flutter that shows them to be yet alive. Some of the kings hold +umbrellas over their heads; rather, one would suppose, as a mark of +dignity, than from a tender regard to their complexions. These umbrellas +were afterwards converted into bags, to hold the bread which they +received. + +The weather has been cooler for two days, and the fever-patients are fast +improving. + +6.--This morning, our visitors of yesterday, and many more, came +alongside, but only persons of distinction were admitted on board. +Nevertheless, they suffice to crowd the deck. A war-canoe, with a king in +it, paddled round the ship twice, all the men working for dear life, by +way, I suppose, of contrasting their naval force with our own. All our +guests, of whatever rank, come to trade or to beg; and it is curious to +see how essentially their estimation of money differs from our own. Coin +is almost unknown in the traffic of the coast, and it is only those who +have been at Sierra Leone, or some of the colonial settlements, who are +aware of its value. One "cut money," or quarter of a dollar, is the +smallest coin of which most of the natives have any idea. This is +invariably the price of a fowl, when money is offered; but a head of +tobacco or a couple of fish-hooks would be preferred. Empty bottles find a +ready market. Yesterday, I "dashed" three or four great characters with a +bottle each; all choosing ale or porter bottles in preference to an +octagonal-sided one, used by "J. Wingrove and Co." of London, in putting +up their "Celebrated Raspberry Vinegar." The chiefs must have consulted +about it afterwards; for, this morning, no less than three kings and a +governor, begged, as a great favor, that I would give them that particular +bottle, and were sadly disappointed, on learning that it had been paid +away for a monkey-skin. No other bottle would console them. + +After the traffic is over, the begging commences; and they prove +themselves artful as well as persevering mendicants. Sometimes they make +an appeal to your social affections; "Massa, I be your friend!" The rascal +has never seen you before, and would cut your throat for a pound of +tobacco. Another seeks to excite your compassion: "My heart cry for a +bottle of rum!" and no honest toper, who has felt what that cry is, can +refuse his sympathy, even if he withhold the liquor. A third applicant +addresses himself to your noble thirst for fame. "Suppose you dash me, I +take your name ashore, and make him live there!" And certainly a deathless +name, at the price of an empty bottle or a head of tobacco, is a bargain +that even a Yankee would not scorn. + +7.--We passed Tahoo in the night, and are now running along a more +beautiful country. The land is high and woody, unlike the flat and marshy +tracts that skirt the shores to windward. These are the Highlands of +Drewin. The ship has been full of Grand Drewin people, who come to look +about them, to beg, and to dispose of fowls, ducks, cocoa-nuts, and small +canoes. They are the most noisy set of fellows on the coast. + +8. We left Grand Drewin, and anchored at St. Andrew's, six miles distant. +The inhabitants, being at war with those of Grand Drewin, do not come off +to us, apprehending that their enemies are concealed behind the ship. +These tribes have been at war more than a year, and have made two +expeditions, resulting in the death of two men on one side and three on +the other. The army of Grand Drewin, having slain three, boasts much of +its superior valor. It must be owned, that the absurdity of war, as the +ultimate appeal of nations, becomes rather strikingly manifest, by being +witnessed on a scale so ridiculously minute. + +9.--A message having been sent in to inform the King of our character, +three or four canoes came off to us. The inhabitants have little to sell +compared with those of Grand Drewin. Indian corn, which does not flourish +so well to windward, has been offered freely at both places, in the ear. + +I went ashore, in company with four other officers. The bar is difficult, +and, in rough weather, must be dangerous. A broad bay opens on your sight, +as soon as the narrow and rocky mouth of the river is passed. Two large +streams branch off, and lose themselves among the high trees upon their +banks. A number of cocoa-nut trees, on the shore, made a thick shade for +fifteen or twenty soldiers, who loitered about, or sat, or lay at length +upon the ground, watching against the approach of the enemy. Some held +muskets in their hands; others had rested their weapons against the trunks +of the trees. We were first conducted to the residence of King Queah, who +received us courteously, regaled us with palm-wine, and inflicted a duck +upon us by way of "dash." The wine, in a capacious gourd, was brought out, +and placed in the centre of the large open space, where we sat. The King, +his headman, and his son, all drank first, in order to prove that the +liquor was not poisonous; a ceremony which makes one strongly sensible of +being among people, who have no very conscientious regard for human life. +The mug was then refilled, and passed to us. + +On the walls of the house there were fresco-paintings, evidently by a +native artist, rudely representing persons and birds. The most prominent +figures were the King, seated in a chair, and seven wives standing in a +row before him, most of them with pipes in their mouths. Black, red, and +white, were apparently the only colors that the painter's palette +supplied. The groundwork was the natural color of the clay, which had been +plastered upon the wall of wicker-work. + +There seem to be two crowned heads at this place, reminding one of the two +classic Kings of Brentford; for, after leaving King Queah, we were led to +the house of another sovereign, styled King George. The frequent +occurrence of this latter name, indicates the familiarity between the +natives and the English. His Majesty received us in state; that is to say, +chairs were placed for the visitors, and the King, with a black hat on his +head, looked dignified. I was so fortunate as to make a favorable +impression on his principal wife, by means of an empty bottle and a head +of tobacco, which she was pleased to accept at my hands in the most +gracious manner. Though probably fifty years of age, she had beautified +herself, and concealed the touch of time by streaks of soot carefully laid +on over her face and body. + +The houses of each family are enclosed within bamboo walls, sometimes to +the number of eight or ten huts in one of these insulated hamlets. They +are generally wretched hovels, and of the simplest construction, merely a +thatched roof, like a permanent umbrella, with no lower walls, and no +ends. Altogether, the dwellings and their inhabitants looked miserable +enough. The tribe has the reputation of being treacherous and cruel, and +the aspect of the people is in accordance with their character. + +I purchased a man's cloth, of native manufacture. It is said to be made of +the bark of a tree, pounded together so as to be strong and durable. I +also procured a hank of fine white fibre of the pine-apple leaf. Of this +material the natives make strong and beautiful fishing-lines, and other +cords. Before being twisted it has the appearance of hemp. + +11.--We anchored, last evening, at Picaninny Lahoo. Only one canoe has +come off to us. The natives are shy of all strange vessels, in consequence +of a French man-of-war having fired upon one of the neighboring towns, a +few days since. It seems that a French merchant-barque was wrecked here, +by running ashore. The master saved his gold and personal property, and he +and the crew were kindly treated; but the vessel and cargo were plundered, +in accordance with the custom of the African coast, as well as of +countries that boast more of their civilisation. Nevertheless, the captain +of the French man-of-war demanded restitution, and kept up a fire upon the +town for several successive days. An English merchant-vessel, lying there +at the time, protested against the cannonade, and threatened to report the +French captain to Lord Stanley!--on the plea that his measures of +hostility prevented the natives from engaging in trade. + +In fact, these masters of English merchant-vessels would probably consider +the interruption of trade as the greatest of all offences against human +rights. We boarded a brig of that nation to-day, and found her full of +natives, with whom a very brisk business was going forward. Some brought +palm-oil, and others gold, which they exchanged principally for guns, +cloth, and powder. We here saw the gold tested by the "blackstone;" a +peculiar kind of mineral, black, with a slight tinge of blue. If, when the +gold is rubbed upon this stone, it leaves a reddish mark, it is regarded +as a satisfactory proof of its purity; otherwise, there is more or less +alloy. The trader is obliged to depend upon the judgment and integrity of +a native in his employ, who is skilful in trying gold. The average profit, +acquired by the foreign traders in their dealings with the natives, is not +less than a hundred per cent. on the principal articles, and much more on +the smaller ones. No inconsiderable portion of this, however, is absorbed +by the numerous "dashes;" in the first place, to the king, then to the +head trade-men, the canoe-men, and all others whose agency can anywise +influence the success of the business. + +The masters or supercargoes of English vessels receive, besides their +regular pay of six pounds per month, a commission of five per cent. on all +sales; they being responsible for any debts which they may allow the +natives to contract. + +12.--Ashore at Cape Lahon, the scene of the recent hostilities between the +French and the natives. We landed in large heavy canoes, flat-bottomed and +square-sided. The town is built upon a narrow point of land between the +sea and a lake, just at the outlet of two rivers. On the side next the +sea, you discern only the bamboo walls of the town, and a few cocoa-nut +trees, scattered along the sandy beach; but on the lake side, there is one +of the loveliest views imaginable. The quiet lake and its wooded islands; +the thousand of green cocoa-nut trees, laden with fruit, and shadowing all +the shore; the rivers, broad and dark, stretching away on either hand, +until lost among the depths of the forest, which doubtless extends into +the mysterious heart of Africa; the canoes, returning along these majestic +streams with people who had fled; the hundreds of natives who reclined in +the shade, or clustered around a fountain in the sand, or busied +themselves with the canoes;--all contributed to form a picture which was +very pleasant to our eyes, long wearied as we were with the sight of ocean +and sky, and the dreary skirts of the sea-shore. It was an hour of true +repose, while we lay in the shadow of the trees, and drank the cool milk +of cocoa-nuts, which the native boys plucked and opened for us. + +I should have narrated, in the first place, our visit to King Peter, who +rules over this beautiful spot. He held his court under an awning of +palm-leaves, in an area of more than a hundred feet square, around the +sides of which were the little dwellings that, conjointly, composed his +palace. The King received us with dignity and affability; and probably not +less than two hundred of his subjects were collected in the area, to +witness the interview; for it was to them a matter of national importance. +They are exceedingly anxious to adjust their difficulties with the French, +and hope to interest us as mediators. By their own history of the affair, +which was laid before us at great length, they appear to have been only +moderately to blame, and to have suffered a great deal of mischief. King +Quashee and nine men were killed, and fifty or sixty houses burnt, besides +other damage. + +These people are a fine-looking race, well formed, and with very pleasing +countenances. At our first arrival the women were all at the plantations, +in the interior, whither they had fled when our ship came in sight, +apprehending her to be French. Towards evening, they returned to the +village, and afforded us an opportunity to see and talk with them. They +are the handsomest African dames with whom I have formed an acquaintance, +and the most affable. It grieves me to add, that, like all their +countrymen and countrywomen, they are importunate beggars, and seem +greatly to prefer the fiery liquors of the white man to their own mild +palm-wine and cocoa-nut milk. One of our party offered rum to the eight +young wives of Tom Beggree, our trade-man; and every soul of them tossed +off her goblet without a wry face, though it was undiluted, and +thirty-three per cent. above proof. + +As at other places, each family resides in a separate enclosure, which is +larger or smaller, according to the number of houses required. Domestic +harmony is in some degree provided for, by allotting a separate residence +to each wife. There is a courtyard before most of the enclosures, after +traversing which, you enter a spacious square, and perceive neatly built +houses on all four of its sides. They are constructed of bamboo-cane +placed upright, and united by cross-pieces of the same, strongly sewed +together with thongs of some tough wood. Some of the floors are not +untastefully paved with small pebbles, intermingled with white shells. +Doors there are none, the entrance being through the windows, in order to +keep out the pigs and sheep, which abound in the enclosures. The streets +or passages through the town are about five feet wide, and are bordered on +either side by the high bamboo wall of some private domain. The settlement +extends more than a mile in length, and is the largest and best-built that +I have yet had the good fortune to see on the coast of Africa. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Visit from two English Trading-Captains--The Invisible King of +Jack-a-Jack--Human Sacrifices--French Fortresses at Grand Bassam, at +Assinee, and other points--Objections to the Locality of +Liberia--Encroachments on the Limits of that Colony--Arrival at +Axim--Sketches of that Settlement--Dix Cove--Civilized Natives--An +Alligator. + + +_April_ 14.--Under way from Cape Lahon at daylight. All the morning, +there were light breezes and warm air; but a fine sea-breeze set in, in +the afternoon, and brought us, at seven o'clock, to anchor at "Grand +Jack," or "Jack-a-Jack." The distributors of names along this coast +deserve no credit for their taste. The masters of two English merchantmen +came on board and spent the evening. One of them was far gone with a +consumption; the other was, in his own phrase, a "jolly cock," and seemed +disposed to make himself amusing; in pursuance of which object he became +very drunk, before taking his departure. Englishmen, in this station of +life, do not occupy the same social rank as with us, and, consequently, +have seldom the correct and gentlemanly manners of our own ship-masters. +The master of an English merchant-vessel would hardly be considered a fit +guest for either the cabin or ward-room of a British man-of-war. + +These masters informed us that they had paid three hundred dollars each, +for the king's "dash," at this place; in addition to which, every +merchant-captain must pay eight dollars on landing, and if from Bristol, +twenty-four dollars. This distinction is in consequence of a Bristol +captain having shot a native, some years ago; and when the palaver was +settled, the above amount of blood-money was imposed upon all ship-masters +from the same place. Our two visitors have now been here for months, and +will remain for months longer, without once setting foot on shore; partly +to avoid incurring the impost on landing, partly from caution against the +natives, and partly to keep their business secret. The jealousy between +the traders is very great. Those from Bristol, Liverpool, and London, all +are in active competition with each other, and with any foreigner who may +come in their way; and their policy may truly be described as +Machiavelian, in its mystery, craft, and crookedness. The business +requires at least as long an apprenticeship as the diplomacy of nations, +and a new hand has but little chance among these sharp fellows. + +15.--Some canoes from the shore have been off to us. We learn from them, +that there is to be a great annual festival today; on which occasion the +king, who has been secluded from the sight of his subjects for eight +years, will shine forth again, "like a re-appearing star." There is +something very provocative to the imagination in this circumstance. What +can have been the motive of such a seclusion? was it in the personal +character of the king, and did he shut himself up to meditate on high +matters, or to revel in physical indulgence? or, possibly, to live his own +simple life, untrammelled by the irksome exterior of greatness? or was it +merely a trick of kingcraft, in order to deify himself in the superstition +of his people, by the awfulness of an invisible presence among them? Be +the secret what it may, it would be interesting to observe the face of the +royal hermit, at the moment when the sunshine and the eyes of his subjects +first fall upon it again. The inhabitants from many miles around have come +to witness and participate in the ceremonies. There are to be grand +dances, and all manner of festivity; and one of the English captains +informed us that he had sold a thousand gallons of rum, within a +fortnight, to be quaffed at this celebration. + +There is another circumstance that may give the festival a darker +interest. It is customary, on such occasions, to sacrifice one or two +slaves, who are generally culprits reserved for this anniversary. The +natives on board deny that there will be any such sacrifice, but admit +that a palaver will be held over a slave, who had attempted to escape. +Should it be so, the poor wretch will stand little chance for mercy at the +hands of these barbarians, frenzied with rum, and naturally blood-thirsty. +We are all anxious to go on shore, to see the ceremonies, and try to save +the destined victim; or, if better may not be, to witness the thrilling +spectacle of a human sacrifice, which, being partly a religious rite, is +an affair of a higher order than one of our civilized executions. But our +captain has heard of an English vessel ashore and in distress, a day's +sail below, and is hastening to their assistance. While taking our +departure, therefore, we can only turn our eyes towards the shore, where a +large town is visible, clustered under the shelter of a cocoa-nut grove. + +16.--At 7 A.M., we are passing Grand Bassam, seven or eight miles from +land. Our track just touches the outer edge of the semicircular line of +dirty foam, indicating the distance to which the influence of the river +extends. Within the verge, the water is discolored by recent contact with +the earth; beyond it, ripples the uncontaminated, pure, blue ocean. One is +the emblem of human life, muddied with base influences; the other, of +eternity, which is only not transparent because of its depth. + +Grand Bassam is one of the many places on the coast, where the French have +recently established forts, and raised their flag. Three large houses are +visible. The one in the centre seems to be the military residence and +stronghold; the other two are long buildings, one story high, and are +probably used as storehouses. A picket-fence surrounds the whole. At +Assinee, likewise, which is now in sight, there is another French fort, +consisting of a block-house and two store-houses, encompassed by pickets. +The French government are also fortifying other points along the coast, in +the most systematic manner. The general plan is, a block-house in the +centre, with long structures extending from each angle, two for barracks, +and two for trading-houses; the whole enclosed within a stockade. They are +imposing establishments, and constructed with an evident view to +durability. It is said that all but French vessels are to be prohibited +from trading within range of their guns, and that a man-of-war is to be +stationed at each settlement. The captain of a Bremen brig informed me, +that the Danes are about to sell their fort at Accra to the French; he +gave as his authority the single Danish officer remaining at Accra. + +It is perhaps to be regretted that the colonies of Liberia were not +originally planted in the fertile territory along which we have recently +sailed, and which other nations are now pre-occupying. Liberia does not +appear to possess so rich a soil as most other parts of the coast; there +is more sand, and more marsh, above than below Cape Palmas. But the +country between Cape Palmas and Axim is inhabited by cruel, warlike, and +powerful tribes; and a colony would need more strength than Liberia has +ever yet possessed, to save it from destruction. From Axim to Accra, there +is a chain of forts which have been held by different European nations, +for centuries; nearly all the coast is claimed by these foreigners; while +the interior is occupied by such powerful kingdoms as those of Ashantee +and Dahomey. On these accounts, the tract now called Liberia (extending +about three hundred miles, from Cape Mesurado to Cape Palmas) was the most +open for the purposes of colonization. Even within the limits just named, +however, both France and England have recently betrayed a purpose of +effecting settlements. It is to be hoped that these nations will hereafter +transfer their titles to Liberia. Their policy doubtless is, to hold the +country for its exclusive trade, or until they can obtain advantageous +terms of commercial intercourse with the colonists and natives. The +attention of the Society at home, as well as of the Liberian government, +is now fully awake to the importance of securing territory. They are +aware, that, without vigorous and prompt measures to extinguish the native +title to the country between Monrovia and Cape Palmas, foreign nations +will occupy the intermediate positions, and cause much embarrassment +hereafter. + +17.--At Assinee. We boarded a French brig-of-war, the Eglantine, last +evening, and learned that the vessel, which ran ashore here, had gone to +pieces; so that all our hurry was of no avail. + +Sailed at 9 A.M. for Axim. + +18.--Last night, we had thunder, lightning, wind, and rain. There are +showers and small tornadoes, almost every night, succeeded by clear and +pleasant days. We are now in sight of Cape-Three-Points, and the fort at +Axim. It is pleasant, after the monotonous aspect of the shore to +windward, to see a coast with deep indentations and bold promontories. The +fort at Axim has a commanding appearance, and the country in the vicinity +has a decidedly New-England look. + +19.--Ashore at Axim, where we met with some features of novelty. The fort +here is really an antique castle, having been built by the Portuguese so +long ago as 1600, and taken from them by its present possessors, the +Dutch, in 1639. It is of stone, built upon scientific principles, with +embrasures for cannon and loop-holes for musketry. The walls are four feet +thick, and capable of sustaining the assault of ten thousand natives. The +fortress is three stories high, the basement story being widest, and each +of the others diminishing in proportion, and surrounded by a terrace. The +two lower departments are intended for the cannon and the mass of the +defenders; while the Governor occupies the upper as his permanent +residence, and may there fortify himself impregnably, even if an enemy +should possess the fort below--unless, indeed, they should blow him into +the air. + +The country claimed by the Dutch, extends about thirty miles along the +coast, and twenty miles into the interior, with a population estimated at +about ten thousand. They seem--particularly those who reside in the +villages beneath the fortress--to be entirely under the control of their +European masters, and to live comfortably, and be happy in their +condition. The natives possess slaves; and there are also many "pawns," of +a description seldom offered to the pawnbrokers in other parts of the +world; namely, persons who have pledged the services of themselves and +family to some creditor, until the debt be paid. It is a good and forcible +illustration of the degradation which debt always implies, though it may +not always be outwardly visible, as here at Axim. The Governor himself, +who is a native of Amsterdam, and apparently a mulatto, is one of those +pawn-brokers who deal in human pledges. He is a merchant-soldier, bearing +the military title of lieutenant, and doing business as a trader. The +Governor of El Mina is his superior officer, and the fort at Axim is +garrisoned by twelve black soldiers from the former place. War has existed +for several years between these Dutch settlements and their powerful +neighbor, the king of Appollonia, who is daily expected to attack the +fortress. In that event, the people in the neighboring villages would take +refuge within the walls, and there await the result. + +The native houses are constructed in the usual manner, of small poles and +bamboo, plastered over with clay, and thatched. They might be kept +comfortable if kept in repair, but are mostly in a wretched state, +although thronged with occupants. The proportion of women, as well as +children, appears larger than in other places; and they wear a greater +amplitude of apparel than those of their sex on the windward coast, +covering their persons from the waist to the knee, and even lower. The +most remarkable article of dress is one which I have vaguely understood to +constitute a part of the equipment of my own fair countrywomen--in a word, +the veritable bustle. Among the belles of Axim, there is a reason for the +excrescence which does not exist elsewhere; for the little children ride +astride of the maternal bustle, which thus becomes as useful, as it is +unquestionably ornamental. Fashion, however, has evidently more to do with +the matter than convenience; for old wrinkled grandams wear these +beautiful anomalies, and little girls of eight years old display +protuberances that might excite the envy of a Broadway belle. Indeed, +fashion may be said to have its perfect triumph and utmost refinement, in +this article; it being a positive fact, that some of the Axim girls wear +merely the bustle, without so much as the shadow of a garment. Its native +name is "tarb koshe." + +Axim is said to be perfectly healthy, there being no marshes in the +vicinity. The soil is fertile and the growth luxuriant. There is a fine +well of water, from which ships may be supplied abundantly and easily, +though not cheaply. The landing place is protected by small islands and +reefs, which break the force of the swell; so that boats may land with as +much safety and as little difficulty as in a river. One of our boats, +nevertheless, with fifteen or sixteen persons on board, ran on a rock and +bilged, in attempting to go ashore. All were happily saved by canoes from +the beach. There is a great abundance of pearl-shells to be found along +the shore, not valuable, but pretty. + +The currency here is gold dust, which passes from hand to hand as freely +as coin bearing the impress of a monarch or a republic. The governor's +weights for gold are small beans; a brown one being equivalent to a +dollar, and a red one to fifty cents. + +22.--Ashore; and spent most of the day in the fortress; one of the cool +places of Africa. Situated on a high, rocky point of land, with the sea on +three sides, every breeze that stirs, however lightly, is sure to be felt +on the terraces of the castle of Axim; and they bring coolness even at +noontide, being tempered by the spray constantly rising from the waves +that dash against the rocks below. + +There is great difficulty in procuring any supplies here, except wood and +water, and those at a high rate--seven dollars per cord for the former, +and one dollar for each hundred gallons of the latter; this, too, +including only the filling of the casks, and rolling them a short distance +on the beach. We found it impossible to purchase bullocks, sheep, or pigs, +and but very little poultry. The governor explained, that several +men-of-war had recently visited the settlement, and taken all the live +stock that could be spared, and that the war with Appollonia had cut off +the large supply formerly drawn from that country. The natives at this +place cannot furnish vessels with supplies, unless by the governor's +express permission; which, it is said, he does not grant, except upon +condition that they expend the proceeds in purchasing goods from him. One +of our stewards bought a roasting-pig, on shore; and the fact coming to +the ears of Governor Rhule, he notified the people that there would be a +palaver after our departure, for the discovery of the offender. The fine +for a transgression of this kind is two ounces of gold, or thirty-two +dollars. Let us imagine a village storekeeper, in our own country, +possessing supreme control over all the traffic of his neighbors--and we +shall have an idea of the relative position of the Governor of Axim and +the natives. Moreover, he is the general arbitrator, _ex officio_, and +expects that all awards shall be paid in cash, and that the successful +party spend the amount at his shop. + +We learned from Governor Rhule, that the Dutch government, some years ago, +had sent agents from El Mina to Comassee, the capital of Ashantee, for the +purchase of slaves, to be employed in the wars between the Dutch East +India settlements and the natives of that region. Three thousand were thus +purchased, at forty dollars each, and transported to Batavia. Perhaps no +circumstance, possible to be conceived, could do more to strip war of its +poetry, than such a fact; and yet it is in good keeping with the character +of a shrewd, commercial, business-like people, endowed with more common +sense than chivalry or sensibility. A British general, in order to carry +on an expedition against a French colony, once entered into a similar +speculation; but it was indignantly annulled by his government. In the +present case, the exportation of slaves, to fight the battles of their +masters, ceased only two or three years since, on the termination of the +war. These servile soldiers continued in Batavia, except a few wounded +ones, who have been sent back to El Mina, and now reside there on +pensions. + +Between Axim and Accra, both inclusive, there are six Dutch forts now +occupied and in repair, besides several which have been abandoned. I was +told that the annual cost of these establishments, to the home-government, +is not more than twenty thousand dollars; most of their expenses being +defrayed by duties, port-charges and other revenue accruing on the spot. + +24.--We left Axim yesterday, and anchored, last night, off the British +settlement at Dixcove. This morning, while heaving up the anchor, a boat +came off from the schooner Edward Burley of Bevaley, requesting +assistance, as her spars had been shivered by lightning. Soon after, the +commandant of the fort came on board, in a large and handsome canoe, +paddled by ten or twelve natives. The passengers sit in the bows, using +chairs or stools for seats, and protected from the surf and spray by the +high sides of the canoe. We dined on shore with the Governor, Mr. Swansey, +at his new residence, in the cool and refreshing atmosphere of a high +hill. The house is handsomely furnished in the English style. Mr. Swansey +has resided ten years on the coast, and was one of the persons examined +before the Committee of Parliament in reference to the state and affairs +of this region. There is a circumstance that connects this gentleman, +though but slightly, with poetic annals. Being at Cape Coast Castle at the +time of Mrs. McLean's death, he was one of the inquest that examined into +that melancholy event. His account confirms the general impression, that +her death was unpremeditated, and caused by an accidental over-dose of +prussic-acid, which she was in the habit of taking for spasms. She was +found alone, and nearly dead, behind the door of her apartment. Alas, poor +L.E.L.! It was certainly a strange and wild vicissitude of fate that made +it the duty of this respectable African merchant, in company with men of +similar fitness for the task, to "sit" upon the body--say, rather, on the +heart--of a creature so delicate, impassioned, and imaginative. + +The native houses here are quite large; three or four being two stories +high, with balconies, built of stone, in the Spanish style. They are +furnished with sofas, bedsteads, and pictures. One elderly native received +us in a calico surtout, and gave us ale. Another wore the native garb, +with the long cloth folded around him and resting upon his shoulder, like +a Roman toga. He offered champagne, Madeira, gin, brandy, ale, and cigars, +and pressed us to partake, with a dignified and elegant hospitality. This +was Mr. Brace. He had a clerk (of native blood, but dressed in cap, +jacket, and pantaloons, in the English style), who spoke good English, and +was very gentlemanly. It is interesting to meet the natives of Africa at +so advanced a stage of refinement, yet retaining somewhat of their +original habits and character, which is of course entirely lost in the +Liberian colonists. + +25.--Spent the morning on shore, at the government-house, reading the +English newspapers, and enjoying the coolness of the position and the +society of the intelligent governor. I was interested in observing an +alligator, inhabiting a fresh-water pond, on the edge of the town. A +chicken being held out to him as a lure, he came out of the pond and +snapped at it, making a loud, startling noise with his teeth. He had +entirely emerged from his native element, and remained some fifteen +minutes on land, during which time he snapped five or six times at the +fowl, which was as often drawn away by a string. At length, seizing his +prey, he plunged with it into the water, dived, swam across the pond, and +rose to the surface on the other side, where he masticated his breakfast, +at his leisure. Three alligators inhabit this pond, and being regarded as +"fetishes," or charmed and sacred creatures, are never injured by the +natives. On their part, the amphibious monsters seem to cherish amicable +feelings towards the human race, and allow children to bathe and sport in +the pond, without injury or molestation. The reptile that I saw was seven +or eight feet long, with formidable teeth and scales. + +Instead of the cassada and rice of the windward coast, corn is here the +principal food. After being pounded in their long mortars, it is ground +fine, by hand, between two stones like those used by painters, and is +mixed with palm-wine. + +28.--Having repaired the American schooner, and supplied her with one of +our spare topmasts, we are ready to sail to-day. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Dutch Settlement at El Mina--Appearance of the Town--Cape Coast +Castle--Burial-place of L. E. L.--An English Dinner--Festivity on +Ship-board--British, Dutch, and Danish Accra--Native Wives of Europeans--A +Royal Princess--An Armadillo--Sail for St. Thomas--Aspect of the Island. + + +_April_ 29.--At 10 A.M., anchored off the Dutch settlement of El Mina. +The Governor's lieutenant boarded us in a large canoe, paddled by about a +score of blacks. A salute was fired by our ship, and returned from the +castle with a degree of splendor quite unexpected; for a portion of the +native town, situated beneath the castle-walls, was set on fire by the wad +of a cannon, and twenty or thirty houses burnt to the ground. On landing, +we received a message, intimating that the Governor would be glad to see +us, and consequently called upon him. He is a man of about thirty, who +came out in 1832, as a clerk, and has risen to be Governor, with the +military rank of lieutenant-colonel. All the civil officers have military +titles, and wear the corresponding uniforms, for effect upon the natives; +but the Dutch evince their shrewdness by placing practical men of +business, rather than soldiers, at the head of their colonial +establishments. The only officer of the regular army is a lieutenant, +commanding the guard, of one hundred men. + +El Mina--the Mine--was built in 1482, or thereabouts, by the Portuguese, +whose early navigators have left tokens of their enterprise all along this +coast; although the achievements of those adventurous men do but +illustrate the nation's present supineness and decay. The settlement was +taken by the Dutch about a century after its foundation. The main fortress +is extensive, mounting ninety guns, and is capable of withstanding the +assault of a large force of regular troops. On an eminence, above the +town, is a second fort, apparently strong and in good repair; and two +small batteries are placed in commanding situations. + +The houses in the town are built of stone, and thatched. The streets are +narrow, crooked, and dirty, imparting to the place the air of intricate +bewilderment of some of the old European cities. Much of the trade is done +in the streets, and entirely by women, who sit with their merchandize on +the ground before them, and their gold-scales in their laps, waiting for +customers. It would perhaps add to our manliness of character, if at least +the minor departments of traffic were resigned to the weaker sex, among +ourselves. Crossing a small river, we came to another, and by far the best +section, of the town. There are long, wide streets, two of which, meeting +at an obtuse angle, form together an extent of nearly a mile. A double row +of trees throw their shade over the central walk of this Alameda. At +intervals are seated groups of women-traders. The wares of some are +deposited upon the ground, while pieces of cloth are displayed to +advantage upon lines, stretching from tree to tree. + +Before returning on board, we bespoke rings and chains of a native +goldsmith. The fashions of Africa are less evanescent than those of +Europe; and we may expect to see such ornaments as glittered on the bosom +of the Queen of Sheba. + +_May_ 2.--Sailed for Cape Coast Castle with the evening breeze. + +3.--At Cape Coast Castle. + +The landing is effected in large canoes, which convey passengers close to +the rocks, safely and without being drenched, although the surf dashes +fifty feet in height. There is a peculiar enjoyment in being raised, by an +irresistible power beneath you, upon the tops of the high rollers, and +then dropped into the profound hollow of the waves, as if to visit the +bottom of the ocean, at whatever depth it might be. We landed at the +castle-gate, and were ushered into the castle itself, where the commander +of the troops received us in his apartment. + +I took the first opportunity to steal away, to look at the burial-place of +L.E.L., who died here, after a residence of only two months, and within a +year after becoming the wife of Governor McLean. A small, white marble +tablet (inserted among the massive grey stones of the castle-wall, where +it faces the area of the fort) bears the following inscription:-- + + Hic jacet sepultum + Omne quod mortale fuit + LETITIAE ELISABETHAE McLEAN, + Quam, egregiâ ornatam indole, + Musis unicè amatam; + Omniumque amores secum trahentem, + In ipso aetatis flore, + Mors immatura rapuit, + Die Octobris XV., A.D. MDCCCXXXVIII, + Ætat 36. + + * * * * * + + Quod spectas viator marmor, + Vanum heu doloris monumentum, + Conjux moereng erexit. + +The first thought that struck me was the inappropriateness of the spot for +a grave, and especially for the grave of a woman, and, most of all, a +woman of poetic temperament. In the open area of the fort, at some +distance from the castle-wall, the stone pavement had been removed in +several spots, and replaced with plain tiles. Here lie buried some of the +many British officers who have fallen victims to the deadly atmosphere of +this region; and among them rests L.E.L. Her grave is distinguishable by +the ten red tiles which cover it. Daily, the tropic sunshine blazes down +upon the spot. Daily, at the hour of parade, the peal of military music +resounds above her head, and the garrison marches and counter-marches +through the area of the fortress, nor shuns to tread upon the ten red +tiles, any more than upon the insensible stones of the pavement. It may be +well for the fallen commander to be buried at his post, and sleep where +the reveille and roll-call may be heard, and the tramp of his +fellow-soldiers echo and re-echo over him. All this is in unison with his +profession; the drum and trumpet are his perpetual requiem; the soldier's +honorable tread leaves no indignity upon the dead warrior's dust. But who +has a right to trample on a woman's breast? And what had L.E.L. to do with +warlike parade? And wherefore was she buried beneath this scorching +pavement, and not in the retired shadow of a garden, where seldom any +footstep would come stealing through the grass, and pause before her +tablet? There, her heart, while in one sense it decayed, would burst forth +afresh from the sod in a profusion of spontaneous flowers, such as her +living fancy lavished throughout the world. But now, no verdure nor +blossom will ever grow upon her grave. + +If a man may ever indulge in sentiment, it is over the ashes of a woman +whose poetry touched him in his early youth, while he yet cared anything +about either sentiment or poetry. Thus much, the reader will pardon. In +reference to Mrs. McLean, it may be added, that, subsequently to her +unhappy death, different rumors were afloat as to its cause, some of them +cruel to her own memory, others to the conduct of her husband. All these +reports appear to have been equally and entirely unfounded. It is well +established here, that her death was accidental. + +We dined at the castle to-day, and met the officers of a new English brig, +the Sea-Lark, among whom I was happy to recognize Lieutenant B----, an +acquaintance at Mahon, and a messmate of my friend C----. All these +officers are gallant fellows; and the commencement of our acquaintance +promises to place them and ourselves on the most cordial terms. The +dinner, like other English dinners, was rather noisy, but rendered highly +agreeable by the perfect good feeling that prevailed. At eight in the +evening, we returned on board, though strongly urged to sleep on shore by +the Governor and all our other friends. Such hospitality, though +unquestionably sincere, and kindly meant, it was far better to decline +than accept; for it was much the same as if Death, in the hearty tone of +good-fellowship, had pressed us to quaff another cup and spend the night +under his roof. Had we complied, it would probably have cost the lives of +more than one of us. Our captain took wisdom by the sad experience of the +English brig, which had lost her purser and master by just such a +festivity, prolonged to a late hour, and finished by the officers passing +the night on shore. The fever of the climate punished their imprudence. + +All vessels, except those of our own navy, allow their officers to sleep +on shore. They expect to be taken sick, but hope that the first attack of +fever will season them. Possibly, this is as wise a course as the British +officers could adopt; for, unlike ourselves, they are compelled by duty to +trust themselves in pestiferous situations, particularly in the ascent of +rivers, where there is scarcely a chance of escaping the deadly influence +of the atmosphere. They therefore confront the danger at once, and either +fall beneath it, or triumph over it. + +4.--Governor McLean, and all the officers of the castle and brig, dined on +board. The table was laid on the quarter-deck, and was the scene of much +mirth and friendly sentiment. In the evening, the theatre was open, with +highly respectable performances; after which came a supper; and the guests +took their leave at midnight, apparently well-pleased. + +6.--We sailed yesterday from Cape Coast Castle, and anchored to-day at +Accra, abreast of the British and Dutch forts. + +7.--Early this morning, we were surrounded with canoes, filled with +articles for sale. The most remarkable were black monkey-skins. There are +seven vessels at anchor here, including our own, and an English +war-steamer. Three of the seven, a barque, brig, and schooner, are from +the United States. Landing in a canoe, we were met on the beach by the +Governor and some of his gentlemen, and escorted to the castle. Thence we +went to the residence of Mr. Bannerman. He is the great man of Accra, +wealthy, liberally educated in England, and a gentleman, although with a +deep tinge of African blood in his cheeks. But when native blood is +associated with gentlemanly characteristics and liberal acquirements, it +becomes, instead of a stigma of dishonor, an additional title to the +respect of the world; since it implies that many obstacles have been +overcome, in order to place the man where we find him. This, however, is a +view not often taken by those who labor under the misfortune (for such it +is, if they so consider it) of having African blood in their veins. + +8.--A missionary, on his way to the Gaboon, and two American +merchant-captains, Hunt and Dayley, dined with us in the ward-room. The +latter are respectable men. The missionary, Mr. Burchell, seems much +depressed. He has had the fever at Cape Palmas, the effects of which still +linger in his constitution; while his companion, the Rev. Mr. Campbell, +although but recently from America, has already finished his earthly +labors, and gone to his reward. We left them only a month ago at Cape +Palmas, in perfect health. + +9.--My impressions of Accra are more favorable than of any other place +which I have yet seen in Africa. British and Dutch Accra are contiguous. +The forts of the two nations are within a mile of each other, situated on +ground which, at a little distance, appears not unlike the "bluffs" on our +western rivers; level upon the summit, with a precipitous descent, as if +the land had "caved in" from the action of the water. The country round is +level, and nearly free from woods as far as the rise of the hills, some +ten miles distant. About three miles to the eastward, Danish Accra shows +its neat town and well-kept fortress. I did not visit the place, but learn +that it is fully equal to its neighbors. Thus, within a circuit of three +or four miles, the traveller may perform no inconsiderable portion of the +grand tour, visiting the territory of three different countries of Europe, +and observing their military and civil institutions, their modes of +business, their national characteristics, and all assimilated by a general +modification, resulting from the climate and position in which they are +placed. There seems to be an exchange of courtesy and social kindness +among the three settlements. Seven or eight Europeans reside in the +different forts; so that, together with the captains of merchant-vessels +in the roads, there are tolerable resources of society. + +All the Europeans have native wives, who dress in a modest, but peculiar +style, of which the lady of Mr. Bannerman may give an example. She wore a +close-fitting muslin chemisette, buttoned to the throat with gold buttons, +a black silk tunic extending to the thigh, a colored cotton cloth, +fastened round the waist and falling as low as the ankles, black silk +stockings and prunella shoes. This lady is jet black, of pleasing +countenance, and is a princess of royal blood. In the last great battle +between the Europeans on the coast and the powerful King of Ashantee (the +same who defeated and slew Sir Charles McCarthy), the native army was put +to total rout by the aid of Congreve rockets. The king's camp, with most +of his women, fell into the hands of the victors. Three of his daughters +were appropriated by the English merchants, here and at Cape Coast, and +became their faithful and probably happy wives. One of the three fell to +the lot of Mr. Bannerman, and is the lady whom I have described. These +women are entrusted with all the property of their husbands, and are +sometimes left for months in sole charge, while the merchants visit +England. The acting governor of the British fort, Mr. Topp, departs for +that country to-morrow, leaving his native wife at the head of affairs. + +Mr. Bannerman is of Scottish blood by paternal descent, but African by the +mother's side, and English by education, and is a gentleman in manner and +feeling. He is the principal merchant here, and transacts a large business +with the natives, who come from two or three hundred miles in the +interior, and constantly crowd his yard. There they sit, in almost perfect +silence, receiving their goods, and making payment in gold-dust and ivory. +Towards us Mr. Bannerman showed himself most hospitable, yet in a +perfectly unostentatious manner. + +Accra is the land of plenty in Africa. Beef, mutton, turkeys and chickens +abound; and its supply of European necessaries and luxuries is unequalled. + +10.--We got under way, yesterday, for the "Islands," a term well +understood to mean those of St. Thomas and Prince's. Mr. Bushnell (one of +the two missionaries who proposed to take passage with us from Cape +Palmas, a month since) is now on board as a passenger to Prince's Island. +The other, Mr. Campbell, is dead. He was of a wealthy and influential +family in Kentucky, and is said to have been a young man of extraordinary +talent and promise. + +Yesterday we fired seventeen minute-guns, in obedience to an order from +the Navy-Department for the melancholy death of its chief, by the +explosion of the Princeton's gun. At twelve o'clock to-day, we fired +thirteen minute guns, as a tribute of respect to the memory of Commodore +Kennon, who fell a victim to the same disastrous accident. Alone on the +waters, months after the event, and five thousand miles from the scene of +his fate, we gave a sailor's requiem to a brave and accomplished officer. + +11.--Calm and sunny. Oh, how sunny!--and, alas, how calm! + +At Accra, I received a present of an armadillo, or ant-eater, who is +certainly a wonderful animal, and well worth studying, in the tedium of a +calm between the tropics. The body proper is but about nine inches, but, +when stretched at length, he covers an extent of two and a half feet, from +head to tail, and is wholly fortified with an impenetrable armor of bony +scales. On any occasion of alarm, it is his custom to thrust his long nose +between his hind-legs and roll his body and tail compactly together, so as +to appear like the half of a ball, presenting no vulnerable part to an +enemy. In this condition he affords an excellent example of a +self-involved philosopher, defending himself from the annoyance of the +world by a stoical crustiness, and seeking all his enjoyment within his +own centre. His muscular strength being great, and especially that of his +fore-legs, it is very difficult to unroll him. An attempt being made to +force his coil, he sticks his fore-claws into the scales of his head, and +holds on with a death-like grip. At night, however, or when all is quiet, +he vouchsafes to unbend himself, and waddles awkwardly about on his short +legs, in pursuit of cockroaches, weevils and spiders. [Footnote: The +above-described ant-eater is properly the long-tailed Manis, being an +African species of the Pangolin. His scaly armor will turn a musket-ball. +This animal, with a few other natural and artificial curiosities from +Africa, has been deposited in the National collection, attached to the +Patent Office at Washington.] 18.--After many days of calm or light +winds, a stiff and fair breeze, for twenty-four hours past, has been +driving us rapidly on our course. We hope to see St. Thomas to-morrow. + +19.--Land was discovered at daylight; but the wind had again failed us. It +being Sunday, divine service was performed, and well performed, by Mr. +Bushnell. He has gained the respect and regard of all on board, by his +amiable, guileless disposition, and unassuming piety. + +At noon the breeze freshened, and brought us within ten miles of the +island, by the close of day. St. Thomas is high, and possesses strong +features. One landmark is so singular as to strike every beholder most +forcibly. It is a rock, apparently not less than five hundred feet high, +and shaped like a light-house, towering into the air, about a third of the +distance from the southern extremity of the island. We are now within a +few miles of the equator; and sundry jokes, not unfamiliar to the nautical +Joe Miller, are passing through the ship, touching the appearance of "the +line." + +20.--A heavy tornado struck us last night. We were prepared for it, +however, with nothing on the ship but the topsail, clewed down, and the +fore-topmast-staysail. The last mentioned sail blew away, and the ship lay +over with her guns in the water. In five minutes, nevertheless, we were +going before the wind and away from shore. + +The appearance of the island is pleasant. A high volcanic peak, hills +covered with wood, and spots of ground reminding us of the lawns or +pasture-lands of our own country. On these tracts not a tree or a bush is +visible for acres together; but whether the soil was left naked by nature, +or rendered so by cultivation, is yet to be ascertained. A ruined chapel +on the top of a hill, a large mansion, apparently unoccupied, on the +shore, and a few huts among the cocoa-trees, are the only evidences that +men have ever been here. Several canoes have now come off to us, bringing +fruit and shells. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves--Mode of drying Coffee--Black +Priests--Madame Domingo's Hotel--Catering for the Mess--Man swallowed by a +Shark--Letters from Home--Fashionable Equipage--Arrival at the +Gaboon--King Glass and Louis Philippe--Mr. Griswold--Mr. and Mrs. +Wilson--Character of the Gaboon People--Symptoms of Illness. + + +_May_ 22.--I have just returned from an excursion to St. Anne de Chaves, +the capital of St. Thomas. Leaving the ship, yesterday, at 9 A.M., we +landed, but did not find the horses which had been ordered from the city. +Deeming it unadvisable to wait, three of the party started on foot, and +two in the "gig" (not the land-vehicle of that name), which was to proceed +on the same destination. After walking three or four miles along the +beach, we met two of the six horses expected. These served to mount a pair +of us, while the third, with the guide and boys, proceeded on foot; it +being arranged that we should travel in the old-fashioned mode of "ride +and tie." Most of the distance was across open land, without a tree or +shrub, but overgrown with coarse, high grass. The whole appearance was +that of a western prairie, but without the grandeur of its extent, or the +flowers that attract the traveller, when wearied with the immensity of +prospect. The soil, like that of the cocoa-nut groves, is a black, deep, +fertile loam. + +In two hours, we arrived at St. Anne de Chaves. The town is spread out +upon the circular shore of the bay, nearly half a mile in extent, and is +defended by a stone fort, situated on the extreme point of the cape. There +are three or four hundred houses, which, with few exceptions, are small, +and constructed of wood. A long stone building is appropriated as the +residence of the governor, and contains the public offices. The only +remarkable edifices besides, are a large wooden church, looking very like +a barn, and a smaller one of stone. The streets are unpaved, but kept +remarkably clean, and not without an especial reason. The great, and +almost only, article of commerce is coffee, which is kept in the houses, +and dried daily in the streets. As soon as the sun is up, therefore, +servants sweep the streets, as carefully as if it were a parlor-floor, and +bring out large quantities of coffee, which they spread upon the ground to +dry. At night, it is carried in. More than half the street, at the proper +season, is covered with coffee yet in the husk. The exports of this +article amount annually to about a million of pounds, producing from +seventy to eighty thousand dollars. The only whites residing on the +island, with one exception, are about sixty Portuguese; the number of +colored inhabitants is estimated at fifteen thousand. + +Black priests are plenty in the streets, walking about in bombazine robes, +with the crisp hair shaven from their crowns. The Jesuits invariably +followed hard upon the heels of the early Portuguese adventurers, in their +African discoveries; but I am not aware that their efforts to Catholicise +the natives have anywhere produced such permanent results, as in this +island. To be sure, the religion of the inhabitants seems to amount to +little more than the practice of a few external rites; for they have both +the appearance and character of dishonesty and treachery, and are said to +be addicted to all sorts of vice. So far as the black priests possess any +influence, however, it is believed to be used conscientiously, and with +excellent effect; nor, though provoked to smile at these queer specimens +of the cloth, could I indulge the impulse without being self-convicted of +narrowness and illiberally. St. Augustine, and other Fathers of the +church, if I have heard aright, were of the same sable hue as the priests +of St. Anne de Chaves. + +The currency of the island is wretched. Coppers are the sole coin in use, +in all domestic transactions, and pass at ten times their intrinsic value. +They are said to be introduced mainly by the American merchantmen, who do +most of the trade with the island. + +The foreign business is chiefly transacted by Mr. Lippitt, a Hamburgh +merchant, at whose house we were hospitably received. He set his best fare +before us; and some of the party not only ate at his table, but slept +beneath his roof. The others took lodgings at the house of Madam Domingo, +a fat black lady, whose first husband, a merchant of considerable +business, had left her a large mansion, several slaves, some children, and +other desirable property. A young, dandy-looking negro succeeded to the +vacant place in her house and heart, and now does the honors of the +establishment. The largest room had a singular aspect of familiarity to +our eyes; its walls being adorned with prints of American origin, among +which were portraits of all the Presidents of the United States, previous +to General Harrison. These, perhaps, were the gift of some +merchant-captain to his hospitable landlady; or, more probably, they had +been hung up in compliment to the national sensibilities of Madam +Domingo's most frequent guests. Tawdry mirrors and chandeliers completed +the decoration of the apartment. A supper of coffee and hard-boiled eggs, +beds harder than the eggs, and a bill equally difficult of digestion, +comprise all that is further to be said of the fashionable hotel of St. +Anne de Chaves. After a good breakfast with our Hamburgh friend, we all +embarked in the gig, and, spreading our canvass to the breeze, reached the +ship in an hour and ten minutes. + +23.--Ashore with the caterer of the mess, marketing for sea-stores; a +difficult task among a set of people who, though poor, care little about +making a profit by selling what they have. Many of them would not take +money, requiring in payment some article of clothing, especially shirts, +or, as the next grand desideratum, trowsers. By careful research among the +small plantations we were able to pick up a few goats, pigs, and fowls, +and came off with materials to keep the mess in good humor for at least +ten days. None but sea-faring men can appreciate the great truth, that +amiability is an affair of the stomach, and that the disposition depends +upon the dinner. + +We found the soil very fertile. Groves of cocoa-nuts cover many acres +together. Beneath the shade, coffee trees were in full bearing; and +bananas, plantains, and corn, flourished luxuriantly. The people are all +blacks, speak Portuguese, and--a circumstance that affords the voyager an +agreeable variety, after seeing so much nakedness--wear clothes. Their +habitations are scattered among the trees. It is usual to have one house +for rainy weather, for sleeping, and for storage, and another as a +kitchen, and for occupation during the day. The first is close, the other +has merely corner-posts, supporting a roof sufficiently light to make a +shade. + +Part of the day was spent in picking up shells upon the shore. +Occasionally, I unhoused a "soldier-crab," who had taken up free quarters +in some unoccupied cone, and became so delighted with its shelter as never +to move without dragging it at his heels along the sand. + +24.--6 P.M., a horrid accident has just occurred. As the gig was coming +alongside, under sail, the tiller broke, and the coxswain who was +steering, fell overboard. He was a good swimmer, and struck out for the +ship, not thirty yards distant, while the boat fell off rapidly to the +leeward. In less than half a minute, a monstrous shark rose to the +surface, seized the poor fellow by the body, and carried him instantly +under. Two hundred men were looking on, without the power to afford +assistance. We beheld the water stained with crimson for many yards +around--but the victim was seen no more! Once only, a few seconds after +his disappearance, the monster rose again to the surface, displaying a +length of well nigh twenty feet, and then his immense tail above the +water, as if in triumph and derision. It was like something preternatural; +and terribly powerful he must have been, to take under so easily, and +swallow, in a moment, one of the largest and most athletic men in the +ship. Poor Ned Martin! + +25.--Again visited the town, where we found an American brig, the Vintage +of Salem, Captain Frye. She is from the South Coast, homeward bound, with +a cargo of gum copal. The Captain had some letters for the squadron, which +were now eleven months old. My own gave an account of the President's +visit to Boston, the Bunker Hill Celebration, and other events of that +antediluvian date. Epistolary communication is, at the best, a kind of +humbug. What was new and true, when written, has become trite and false, +before it can be read. It assures of nothing--not even of the existence of +the writer; for his hand may have grown cold, since the characters which +it traced began their weary voyage in quest of us; and all of which we can +be absolutely certain is, that many unexpected events have happened, and +many expected ones have failed to happen, betwixt the sealing of the +letter and the unfolding it again. Until the ocean be converted into an +electric telegraph, through which intelligence will thrill in an instant, +there can be no real communication between the sailor and his far-off +friends. And yet, after all, how pleasant it is to write letters!--how +much pleasanter to receive them! I acknowledged the receipt of these musty +epistles, by the same vessel that conveyed them to me. + +I have seen but one equipage in the capital of St. Thomas, but that was a +sufficiently remarkable one; a small, three-wheeled vehicle, like a +velocipede, with a phaeton-top to it. Drawn by two negroes, and pushed by +three, it rolled briskly to the door of the church, and there deposited a +plump and youthful dame, as black as ebony. From the deference shown her +by the priests, I inferred that it was my good fortune to behold the +leading belle of St. Anne de Chaves. + +After dining with Mr. Lippitt, we returned to the boats, and got safely on +shipboard before dark. My impressions of St. Thomas and its delightful +climate are highly favorable. A visit to an island has generally more of +interest and amusement than one to a spot on the continent, because the +secluded position of the inhabitants imparts an originality and raciness +to their modes of life. + +27.--Got under way yesterday morning for the Gaboon. Today the wind has +been favorable, and we are now at anchor for the night, off the mouth of +the river, five miles from land. + +28.--At 4 P.M., anchored within three miles of the missionary +establishment. Mr. Bushnell took his leave, respected by us all, as a +pious, unpretending, sensible, and amiable man. + +29.--Ashore. We found our friends well, and glad to see us. They are +comfortably situated in large houses, made of bamboos, and thatched with +the bamboo-leaves sewed together. These present an airy, cool, and light +appearance, highly suitable to a tropical region, and yet are impervious +to rain. + +We visited the house of King Glass, where several of the chiefs assembled +to talk a palaver. They are apprehensive of difficulties with the French, +and wish the English and Americans to interpose. According to their story, +the commandant of a French fort, three miles distant, had attempted, a +short time ago, to procure a cession of their territory. This they +constantly refused, declaring their intention to keep the country open for +trade with all nations, and allow exclusive advantages to none. After +several trials, the commandant apparently relinquished his purpose. A +French merchant-captain now appeared, who ingratiated himself into the +favor of the simple King Glass, invited him to a supper, and made his +majesty and the head-man drunk. While in this condition, he procured the +signatures of the King and two or three chiefs to a paper, which he +declared to be merely a declaration of friendship towards the French, but +which proved to be a cession of certain rights of jurisdiction. Next +morning, the French fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honor of the +treaty between Louis Philippe and King Glass, and sent presents which the +natives refused to receive. They now apprehend a forcible seizure of their +territory by the French, and desire our interposition, as calculated to +prevent such a national calamity. Our captain, however, declined to +interfere, or to express any opinion in the premises, on the ground that +it was not his province to judge of such matters abroad, unless the +interests of Americans were involved. + +The missionaries have perhaps some agency in this movement. They see the +probability that the Catholic priests will follow them to the Gaboon, and +subvert their influence with the natives. + +31.--In the morning I visited Mr. Griswold's place, about two miles from +Baracca, the residence of Mr. Wilson. The former establishment was +commenced only eight months ago; and already there are two buildings +finished, and two more nearly so, all of bamboo. The ground is more +fertile than that occupied by Mr. Wilson, and has been brought thus +seasonably into a good state of cultivation. Mr. Griswold is a Vermonter, +a practical farmer, and an energetic man, and doubtless turns his +agricultural experience to good account, great as is the difference +between the bleak hills of New England, and this equatorial region. His +lady, an interesting woman, is just recovering from fever. + +After an agreeable visit, we returned to the ship, accompanied by Mr. and +Mrs. Griswold, and there found Mr. Wilson and lady, and Mr. James and his +daughter. They all dined and spent the day on board. Mr. Wilson is well +known in America by reputation, and is one of the most able and judicious +among the three hundred missionaries, whom the American Board sends forth +throughout the world. Here at Gaboon, he preaches to the natives in their +own language, which he represents as being very soft, and easy of +acquirement. The people frequent divine services with great regularity, +and are at least attentive listeners, if not edified by what they hear. +Mrs. Wilson is a lady of remarkable zeal and energy. Reared in luxury, in +a Southern city, she liberated her slaves, gave up a handsome fortune to +the uses of missions, and devoted herself to the same great cause, in that +region of the earth where her faith and fortitude were likely to be most +severely tried. It is now six years since she came to Africa; and she has +never faltered for a moment. Having had the good fortune, on a former +cruise, to make the acquaintance of Mrs. Wilson, at Cape Palmas, I was +happy to renew it here. I have seldom met with a person so well fitted to +adorn society, and never with one in whose high motives of action and +genuine piety I had more confidence. + +The natives at the Gaboon, to whom these excellent people are sacrificing +themselves, are said to present more favorable points of character than +those in most other parts of Africa. They are mild in their manners, +friendly to Europeans and Americans, and disposed to imitate them in dress +and customs. They own many slaves among themselves, but treat them with +singular gentleness, and never sell them to foreigners. They are very +indolent, and make no adequate improvement of their advantages for +agriculture and trade. Their country is excellent for grazing, and the +cattle of the best kind; but they take so little forethought as to sell +even the last cow, should a purchaser offer. Consequently, there are +hardly more than thirty cattle left in a tract of country capable, in its +present state, of sustaining a thousand. + +King Glass is an old man, much inclined to drink, yet more regular than +any of his subjects in attendance at church. Toko, a headman, is very +shrewd and intelligent, and highly spoken of by Mr. Wilson, in reference +to his moral qualities. Will Glass, nephew to the King, is blessed with a +couple of dozen wives, and seldom moves without a train of five or six of +them in attendance. He paid a visit to our ship in a full-dress English +uniform, said to have cost three hundred dollars. On the other side of the +river lives King Will, a great man, and with the reputation of a polished +gentleman. The slave-trade is carried on in this King's dominions; and, +while I write, a Spanish slaver lies at anchor off his town, waiting for +her human cargo. + +_June_ 1.--Got under way, and went down the river about three miles, +when, the wind failing, we anchored. At 3 P.M., we started again, and +stood out to sea. Mr. Wilson accompanied us to the mouth of the river, and +there left us, bearing back our hearty good wishes for his personal +prosperity and that of the mission. + +2.--At 12, meridian, we have made the run to the island of St. Thomas, and +are now about fifteen miles to the northward of it. + +3.--The wind is still sufficiently fresh and fair to enable us to make +seven knots westing; the great desideratum. Four months we have been +running away from our letters; and now we go to meet them. Blow, breezes, +blow, and waft us swiftly onward! + +4.--A continuance of favorable winds. I am not well to-day. Slight +headache, and heaviness of feeling--no great matter--but these are ominous +symptoms, on the coast of Africa. + +5.--One year since we left America; a year not without incident and +interest. We are still on the first parallel of north latitude, and going +nine. I am under the surgeon's hands, apprehending a fever, but hoping to +throw it off. + +6.--We have made two hundred and twenty miles within the last twenty-four +hours; and still the breeze does not slacken. Much better in health. Bless +the man who first invented Doctors! + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Recovery from Fever--Projected Independence of Liberia--Remarks on Climate +and Health--Peril from Breakers--African Arts--Departure for the Cape de +Verds--Man Overboard. + + +June 18.--A weary blank! Since my last date, I have had the coast fever, +caught by sleeping on shore, at St. Anne de Chaves, and am now just +recovering my physical force. My sickness was accompanied with little +bodily pain, but with great prostration of strength. Able medical advice, +and kind and judicious treatment, have brought me up a little; and, with +the help of God, I may again call myself well, in a week or two more. But +there is great danger of relapses, caution! + +We are now at Monrovia, having made the passage from the river Gaboon, +hitherward, in seven days and fourteen hours, from anchorage to +anchorage--an unprecedented run! The Macedonian has been here, and is +gone. + +19.--Still better this morning. The sky looks brighter than before; the +woods seem greener, and cast a lovelier shade; the surf breaks more +gracefully along the beach; and the natives, paddling their canoes around +the ship, look more human--more like brethren. Returning health gives a +more beautiful aspect to all things. It is almost worth while to have been +brought so low by sickness, for the sake of the freshness of body and +spirit, the renewed youth, the tenderer susceptibility to all good +impressions, which make my present consciousness so delightful. It is like +being new-created, and placed in a new world. Life, to the convalescent, +looks as fair and promising as if he had never tried it, and been weary of +it. + +20.--Still improving. The fine weather of yesterday and to-day invigorates +and cheers me. Lieutenant Governor Benedict and some friends are expected +on board, by special invitation. We pay much attention to the persons in +authority here; it being the policy of our government to befriend and +countenance the colonies. I hear that a serious effort is now in progress, +at this place, to declare Liberia independent of the Colonization Society, +and set up a republic. Lieutenant Governor Benedict and Mr. Teage are said +to be at the head of the movement. Both are men of talent. Mr. Teage +formerly edited the Liberia Herald, and preached in the Baptist Church, +where his services were most emphatically gratuitous; for he not only +ministered without a stipend, but supplied a place of worship--the sacred +edifice being his own private property. He is certainly one of the ablest, +if not the very ablest, writer and preacher in the colony. The project +above-mentioned seems to me an unwise one; but benefits, which do not now +appear, may possibly be obtained by sundering the relations between the +settlement and the parent society. Much is expected from England. That +nation, however, can never feel a maternal interest in the colony, nor +will do for it what the Society has all along done, and continues to do. + +21.--Still stronger. I am now able to resume my place at the mess-table. +But care is necessary to avoid a relapse. It is one of the worst features +of this disease, that it appears to continue in the system for many months +after the patient's recovery, and to renew its attacks upon the slightest +exposure. Most persons find it necessary to leave the coast, in order to +the re-establishment of their health. I am not the only convalescent on +board the ship. Mr. Ewal, a young Danish supercargo, is here for a few +days, to try the benefit of a change of air, and enjoy the attendance of a +regular physician. He has been on shore above a month, sick of the fever, +under the charge of Dr. Prout, a colored practitioner. Our captain pitied +his condition, invited him on board, and, with his uniform kindness, took +him into the cabin, where, in only three days, he has already improved +wonderfully. + +27.--A sunny day, after three or four dull and rainy ones. My health is +now so far restored, that I shall insert no more bulletins. I owe much to +the care of our surgeon, who is very able and attentive, and has seen much +yellow-fever practice, in the West Indies. The assistant-surgeon is also +an excellent and an untiring officer. My fever, like the other cases which +have happened on board, was of a bilious kind. All foreigners make +themselves liable to it, either in its milder or more aggravated forms, by +sleeping even a single night on shore; but, according to Dr. Hall, a +physician of great experience on the coast, health may be preserved for an +indefinite period, by the simple precaution of sleeping always on +ship-board, at a very moderate distance from land. This does not +altogether coincide with my own observations. It is true, that during +eight or ten months after the arrival of a ship upon the coast, the health +of her crew will probably continue good, if they neither sleep on shore +nor ascend the rivers. But, if exposed for a longer period to the +enervating influences of the unceasing heat, and the frequent penetrating +rains, it may reasonably be expected that any ship's company will be +broken down, even though not a single death may occur. In our own ship, we +have recently had many cases of fever, where the patients have neither +slept on shore, nor been exposed to the peculiar malaria of rivers. +Doubtless, however, the fever of the country, where all due precautions +have been used, will be much lighter on board, than on shore. But the +patients will be liable to frequent relapses, and a complete recovery will +be almost out of the question, without a change of climate. It is another +objection to the long continuance of ships on this station, that all +wounds or injuries, however slight, have a tendency to become obstinate +and dangerous sores, which incapacitate these afflicted from performing +any duty. + +Besides the coast fever (which, Dr. Hall remarks, he has never known an +emigrant completely to escape), there is an intermittent fever, against +which no acclimation will protect the colonist, any more than against the +bilious fever of America. The Rev. Mr. James, a colored missionary, told +me, that, for seven years, he had been accustomed to suffer attacks of +fever, once in every four or five weeks. + +The natives of this country are as healthy as any people under Heaven. A +benignant Providence has adapted the climate, soil, and productions, of +every part of the globe to the constitutions of those races of mankind +which it has placed there. Nor is Africa an exception. In spite of her +desolating wars, and the immense drain of her children through the slave +trade which for centuries has checked the increase of population, she is +still a populous country. The aboriginal natives, unless killed through +superstition or cruelty, survive to an almost patriarchal longevity. The +colored people of America, or any other part of the world, may be regarded +as borrowed from Africa, and inheriting a natural adaptation to her soil +and climate. Such emigrants, therefore, may be expected to suffer less +than the whites, in the process of acclimation, and may, in due time, find +their new residence more genial to their constitutions, than those which +they have quitted. At all events, their children will probably flourish +here, and attain a fulness of physical, and perhaps moral and intellectual +perfection, which the colored race has fallen short of, in other regions. + +As the country becomes cleared and cultivated, the mortality of the +emigrants decreases. It is asserted to be one-third less, at this period, +than it was ten years ago. The statistics of Cape Palmas show the +population to be on the increase, independently of immigration. Dr. Hall +affirmed (but, I should imagine, with unusual latitude of expression) +that, in the sickliest season ever known at Cape Palmas, the rate of +mortality was lower than that of the free colored population in Baltimore, +in an ordinary year. In another generation, this may no doubt be said with +perfect accuracy. + +28.--Last night, the Porpoise came in, and anchored inside of us. As we +lay unusually near the shore, and as the wind was rising, with a heavy +swell, the brig found herself, this morning, in a dangerous position. She +sent us a boat, to say that she was dragging her anchor, and to ask for a +hawser. This was immediately supplied; but, before we could give her the +end of it, she had drifted into the breakers. She hoisted her colors, +union down, and was momentarily expected to strike. At this instant, a +tremendous roller swamped one of our boats, and left the men swimming for +their lives. The other boats went to their assistance, and providentially +succeeded in rescuing them all. Meantime, the brig made sail, and, by the +help of our hawser, was able to keep her wind, and got out to sea, leaving +both her anchors behind. + +Soon after the Porpoise was saved, we found ourselves likewise in equal +peril. The breakers began to whiten about the ship. The wind was not +violent, but the swell was terrible; and the long rollers filled the bay, +breaking in forty feet of water, and covering the sea with foam. Our +anchors held tolerably well; but we dragged slowly, until, from seven +fathoms, we had shoaled our water to four and a half. A council of the +officers being called, it was determined to get under way. A hawser and +stream-anchor being sent out, in order to bring the ship's head in the +proper direction for making sail, the cables were slipped. It was a moment +of intense interest; for, had the rollers or the wind inclined the ship +from her proper course, we must inevitably have been lost; but she stood +out beautifully, and soon left all peril astern. + +There were still three merchant-vessels at anchor; the American barque +Reaper, a Bremen brig, and a Hamburg schooner. While we had our own danger +to encounter, we thought the less of our fellow-sufferers; but, after our +escape, it was painful to think of leaving them in jeopardy. To the +American barque (which lay inshore of us, with her colors union down) we +sent a boat, with sixteen Kroomen, by whose assistance she was saved. The +Bremen brig had her colors at half-mast, appealing to us for aid. She was +nearer to the shore than the other vessels, and lay in the midst of the +breakers, which frequently covered her from stem to stern. Her escape +seemed impossible; and her cargo, valued at thirty thousand dollars, would +have been considered a dear purchase at a thirtieth of that sum. We gave +her all the help in our power, and not without effect; but her salvation, +under Providence, was owing to a strong tide, which was setting out of the +river, and counteracted the influence of wind and swell. Finally, we had +the satisfaction to see all the vessels, one after another, come off safe. + +During this scene, there was great commotion on shore, the people +evidently expecting one or all of us to be lost. When the Porpoise got +off, the Kroomen on the beach raised a great shout of joy. + +29.--There is a very heavy sea this morning, with no prospect of its +immediately subsiding. The Kroomen say that it will last four days from +its commencement. It must have been terrific in the bay, last night. All +the vessels are in sight, keeping off till the swell abates. We have left +two boats behind us, and two anchors, besides the stream-anchor. There has +been nothing like this storm, since our arrival on the coast. + +_July_ 2.--Again at anchor. + +As we shall soon have done with Liberia, I must not forget to insert, +among the motley records of this journal, some account of its ants. The +immense number of these insects, which infest every part of the land, is a +remarkable provision in the economy of Africa, as well as of other +tropical countries. Though very destructive to houses, fences, and other +articles of value, their ravages are far more than repaid by the benefits +bestowed; for they act as scavengers in removing the great quantity of +decaying vegetable matter, which would otherwise make the atmosphere +intolerable. They perform their office both within doors and without. +Frequently, the "drivers," as they are called, enter houses in myriads, +and, penetrating to the minutest recesses, destroy everything that their +omnivorous appetite can render eatable. Whatever has the principle of +decay in it, is got rid of at once. All vermin meet their fate from these +destroyers. Food, clothing, necessaries, superfluities, mere trash, and +valuable property, are alike in their regard, and equally acceptable to +their digestive powers. They would devour this journal with as little +compunction as so much blank paper--and a sermon as readily as the +journal--nor would either meal lie heavy on their stomachs. They float on +your coffee, and crawl about your plate, and accompany the victuals to +your mouth. + +The ants have a Queen, whom the colonists call Bugga-Bug. Her subjects are +divided into three classes; the Laborers, who do nothing but work--the +Soldiers, who do nothing but fight--and the Gentry, who neither work nor +fight, but spend their lives in the pleasant duty of continuing their +species. The habitations of these insects, as specimens of mechanical +ingenuity, are far superior to the houses of the natives, and are really +the finest works of architecture to be met with on the African coast. In +height, these edifices vary from four to fifteen or twenty feet, and are +sometimes ten or twelve feet in diameter at the base. They contain +apartments for magazines, for nurseries, and for all other domestic, +social, and public purposes, communicating with one another, and with the +exterior, by innumerable galleries and passages. The clay, which forms the +material of the buildings, is rendered very compact, by a glutinous +matter, mixed with earth; and all the passages, many of which extend great +distances under ground, are plastered with the same kind of stucco. +Captain Tuckey, in his expedition to the river Zaire, discovered ant-hills +composed of similar materials to the above, but which, in shape, precisely +resembled gigantic toad-stools, as high as a one-story house. In this part +of Africa, they have the form of a mound. At the present day, when the +community-principle is attracting so much attention, it would seem to be +seriously worth while for the Fourierites to observe both the social +economy and the modes of architecture of these African ants. Providence +may, if it see fit, make the instincts of the lower orders of creation a +medium of divine revelations to the human race: and, at all events, the +aforesaid Fourierites might stumble upon hints, in an ant-hill, for the +convenient arrangement of those edifices, which, if I mistake not, they +have christened Phalanxteries. + +8.--At 11 A.M., got under way for the Cape de Verds. + +10.--Calm in the morning, and predictions of a long passage. At noon, +sprung up a ten-knot breeze; and are sanguine of making a short run. In +the evening, at the tea-table, we were talking of the delights of +Saratoga, at this season, and contrasting the condition of the fortunate +visitors to that fashionable resort, with that of the sallow, debilitated, +discontented cruisers on the African station. In the midst of the +conversation, the cry of "man overboard," brought us all on deck with a +rush. There was not much sea, though we were going seven knots. The man +kept his head well above water, and swam steadily toward the life-buoy, +which floated at a short distance from him--his only hope--while the wide +Atlantic was yawning around him, eager for his destruction. We watched him +anxiously, until he seized it, and then thought of sharks. We were too far +at sea, however, for many of these monsters to be in attendance. In a few +moments a boat picked up man and buoy, and the ship was on her course +again. + +21.--Anchored at Porto Praya. + +The season of journalizing, to any good purpose, is over. Scenes and +objects in this region have been so often presented to my eyes, that they +now fail to make the vivid impressions which could alone enable me (were +that ever possible) to weave them into a lively narrative of my +adventures. My entries therefore, for the rest of the cruise, are likely +to be "few, and far between." + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea--The Gar-Fish--The Booby and the +Mullet--Improvement of Liberia--Its Prospects--Higher social position of +its Inhabitants--Intercourse between the White and Colored Races--A Night +on Shore--Farewell to Liberia.--Reminiscence of Robinson Crusoe. + + +_September_ 1.--At Porto Grande. + +To-day, as for many previous days, the water has been beautifully clear. +The massive anchor and the links of the chain-cable, which lay along the +bottom, were distinctly visible upon the sand, full fifty feet below. +Hundreds of fish--the grouper, the red snapper, the noble baracouta, the +mullet, and many others, unknown to northern seas--played round the ship, +occasionally rising to seize some floating food, that perchance had been +thrown overboard. With my waking eye, I beheld the bottom of the sea as +plainly as Clarence saw it in his dream; although, indeed, here were few +of the splendid and terrible images that were revealed to him:-- + + "A thousand fearful wrecks; + A thousand men that fishes gnawed upon; + Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl, + Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels." + +Nevertheless, it was a sight that seemed to admit me deeper into the +liquid element than I had ever been before. Now and then came the long, +slender gar-fish, and, with his sword-like beak, struck some unhappy fish +which tempted his voracity. I watched the manoeuvres of the destroyer and +his victims, with no little interest. The fish (which, in the two +instances particularly observed, was the mullet) came instantly to the +surface, on being struck, and sprang far out of water. He swam on his side +with a circular motion, keeping his head above the surface. From time to +time he leaped into the air, spasmodically, and in a fit of painful agony; +for it could not be from alarm, as the foe was nowhere visible. Gradually, +his strength failed, and his efforts became feebler, and still more +feeble. + +The fates of the two mullets were different. One received a second blow +from the inexorable gar-fish, which, for a moment, increased his agony and +his exertions. He then lay motionless upon the surface, at rest from all +trouble. The conqueror came a third time, seized his prey, and swam +swiftly out of sight. + +The other mullet, which rose half an hour afterwards, swam closer to the +ship than his predecessor, and received no second blow. While the poor +fellow was yet in the death-struggle, came two great sable birds, with +bills, wings, and legs, like those of the heron. Flapping their dark wings +in the air, they circled round, and repeatedly swooped almost upon the +dying fish. But he was not doomed to be their victim. Presently, with his +brown back, white breast, and pink bill, came flapping along a booby, and, +without a moment's hesitation, stooped upon the mullet, and appeared to +swallow him in the twinkling of an eye. The fish was at least six inches +in length, and the bird not twice as much. How so liberal a morsel could +be so quickly disposed of, was a marvel to a dozen idlers, who had been +curiously observing this game of life and death to one party, and a dinner +to the other. Certainly, the booby carried off the fish. Borne down by the +weight of his spoil, the feathered gormandizer alighted on the +water--rested himself for a moment--rose again, and re-alighted--and in +this manner, with many such intervals of repose, made his way to the +shore. + +25.--At 1 P.M., sailed for the Coast, in company with the Truxton. + +26.--Anchored off Cape Mesurado. + +It is now fourteen months since our ship first visited Monrovia. Within +that period there has been a very perceptible improvement in its +condition. The houses are in better repair; the gardens under superior +cultivation. There is an abundant supply of cattle, which have been +purchased from the natives. More merchant-vessels now make this their +port, bringing goods hither, and creating a market for the commodities, +live stock, and vegetables, of the colonists. An increased amount of money +is in circulation; and the inhabitants find that they can dispose of the +products of their industry for something better than the cloth and +tobacco, which they were formerly obliged to take in payment. The squadron +of United States men-of-war, if it do no other good, will at least have an +essential share in promoting the prosperity of Liberia. + +After having seen much, and reflected upon the subject even to weariness, +I write down my opinion, that Liberia is firmly planted, and is destined +to increase and prosper. This it will do, though all further support from +the United States be discontinued. A large part of the present population, +it is true, are ignorant, and incompetent to place a just estimate on +freedom, or even to comprehend what freedom really is. But they are +generally improving in this respect; and there is already a sufficient +intermixture of intelligent, enterprising and sagacious men, to give the +proper tone to the colony, and insure its ultimate success. The great +hope, however, is in the generation that will follow these original +emigrants. Education is universally diffused among the children; and its +advantages, now beginning to be very manifest, will, in a few years, place +the destinies of this great enterprise in the hands of men born and bred +in Africa. Then, and not till then, will the experiment of African +colonization, and of the ability of the colonists for self-support and +self-government, have been fairly tried. My belief is firm in a favorable +result. + +Meantime, it would be wiser in the Colonization Society, and its more +zealous members, to moderate their tone, and speak less strongly as to the +advantages held out by Liberia. Unquestionably, it is a better country +than America, for the colored race. But they will find it very far from a +paradise. Men, who expect to become independent and respectable, can only +achieve their object here on the same terms as everywhere else. They must +cultivate their minds, be willing to exert themselves, and not look for a +too easy or too rapid rise of fortune. One thing is certain. People of +color have here their fair position in the comparative scale of mankind. +The white man, who visits Liberia, be he of what rank he may, and however +imbued with the prejudice of hue, associates with the colonists on terms +of equality. This would be impossible (speaking not of individuals, but of +the general intercourse between the two races) in the United States. The +colonist feels his advantage in this respect, and reckons it of greater +weight in the balance than all the hardships to which he is obliged to +submit, in an unwonted climate and a strange country. He is redeemed from +ages of degradation, and rises to the erect stature of humanity. On this +soil, sun-parched though it be, he gives the laws; and the white man must +obey them. In this point of view--as restoring to him his long-lost +birthright of equality--Liberia may indeed be called the black man's +paradise. + +It is difficult to lay too great stress on the above consideration. When +the white man sets his foot on the shore of Africa, he finds it necessary +to throw off his former prejudices. For my own part, I have dined at the +tables of many colored men in Liberia, have entertained them on shipboard, +worshipped with them at church; walked, rode, and associated with them, as +equal with equal, if not as friend with friend. Were I to meet those men +in my own town, and among my own relatives, I would treat them kindly and +hospitably, as they have treated me. My position would give me confidence +to do so. But, in another city, where I might be known to few, should I +follow the dictates of my head and heart, and there treat these colored +men as brethren and equals, it would imply the exercise of greater moral +courage than I have ever been conscious of possessing. This is sad; but it +shows forcibly what the colored race have to struggle against in America, +and how vast an advantage is gained by removing them to another soil. + +10.--Yesterday, Governor Roberts gave our officers a farewell dinner. We +left the table early, made our adieus, and were on our way down the river +half an hour before sunset. The pilot and some of our friends endeavored +to dissuade us from attempting the passage of the bar, pronouncing the +surf too dangerous. Some Kroomen also discouraged us, saying that the bar +was "too saucy." With the fever behind us, and the wild breakers and +sharks before, it was matter of doubt what course to pursue. Anxiety to be +on our way homeward settled the difficulty; and we left the wharf, to +make, at least, a trial. A trial, and nothing more, it proved; for, as we +neared the bar, it became evident that there would be great rashness in +attempting to cross. The surf came in heavily, and with the noise of +thunder, and the gigantic rollers broke into foam, across the whole width +of the bar. Darkness had fallen around us, with the sudden transition of a +tropical climate. There was no open space visible amid the foam; and, +while the men lay on their oars, we looked anxiously for the clear water, +which marks the channel to the sea. Many minutes were thus spent, looking +with all our eyes. + +A council of war was held between the captain and myself, in which we +discussed the probabilities of being swamped and eaten. Having once fairly +started, we did not like to turn back, especially as it would be necessary +to go through the insipid ceremony of repeating our good-bye. Then, too, +the image of fever rose behind us. By the prohibition of the Commodore, +and the dictates of prudence, not an officer had slept on shore on any +part of the mainland of the African coast, during the whole period of our +cruise; and now, at the very last moment, to be compelled to incur the +risk, was almost beyond patience. On the other hand, there was the foaming +surf, and the ravenous sharks, in whose maws there was an imminent +probability of our finding accommodation, should we venture onward. It is +a fate proper enough for a sailor, but which he may be excused for +avoiding as long as possible. Our council ended, therefore, with a +determination to turn back, and trust to the tender mercies of the fever. + +It was a splendid moonlight night; one of those nights on which the +natives deem it impossible to catch fish, saying that the sky has too many +eyes, and that the fish will shun the bait. The frogs kept up an incessant +chorus, reminding me of the summer evening melodies of my native land, yet +as distinct from those as are the human languages of the two countries. I +have observed that the notes of frogs are different in different parts of +the world. On the banks of the beautiful Arno, it is like the squalling of +a cat. Here, it is an exact imitation of the complaining note of young +turkeys. Unweariedly, these minstrels made music in our ears, until dawn +gleamed in the East, and ushered in a bright and glorious morning. The +birds now took the place of the frogs in nature's orchestra, and cooed, +peeped, chattered, screamed, whistled, and sang, according to their +various tastes and abilities. The trees were very green, and the dew-drops +wonderfully brilliant; and, amid the cheerful influence of sun-rise, it +was difficult to believe that we had incurred any deadly mischief, by our +night's rest on the shore of Africa. + +At a later period, I add, that no bad result ensued, either to the +captain, myself, or the eight seamen, who were detained ashore on the +above occasion. This good fortune may be attributable to the care with +which we guarded ourselves from the night-air and the damps; and besides, +we left the coast immediately, and, after a brief visit to Sierra Leone, +pursued our homeward course to America. On another occasion, a lieutenant, +a surgeon, and six men, belonging to our squadron, were detained on shore +at Cape Mount, all night, after being capsized and wet. What were their +precautions, I am unable to say; but, all the officers and men were +attacked by fever, more or less severely, and in one instance fatally. +[Footnote: While revising these sheets for the press, the writer hears of +an example which may show the necessity of the health-regulations imposed +on the American squadron. The U.S. ship Preble ascended the River Gambia +to the English settlement of Bathurst, a distance of fifteen miles, to +protect the European residents against an apprehended attack of the +natives. Although the ship remained but one or two days, yet, in that +brief space, about a hundred cases of fever occurred on board, proving +fatal to the master, a midshipman, and seventeen of the crew.] And now we +leave Liberia behind us, with our best wishes for its prosperity, but with +no very anxious desire to breathe its fever-laden atmosphere again. There +is enough of interest on the African station; but life blazes quickly +away, beneath the glare of that torrid sun; and one year of that climate +is equivalent to half a dozen of a more temperate one, in its effect upon +the constitution. The voyager returns, with his sallow visage, and +emaciated form, and enervated powers, to find his contemporaries younger +than himself--to realize that he has taken two or three strides for their +one, towards the irrevocable bourne; and has abridged, by so much, the +season in which life is worth having for what may be accomplished, or for +any zest that may be found in it. + +Before quitting the coast, I must not forget that our cruising-ground has +a classical claim upon the imagination, as being the very same over which +Robinson Crusoe made two or three of his voyages. That famous navigator +sailed all along the African shore, between Cape de Verd and the Equator, +trading for ivory, for gold dust, and especially for slaves, with as +little compunction as Pedro Blanco himself. It is remarkable that De Foe, +a man of most severe and delicate conscience, should have made his hero a +slave-dealer, and should display a perfect insensibility to anything +culpable in the traffic. Morality has taken a great step in advance, since +that day; or, at least, it has thrown a strong light on one spot, with +perhaps a corresponding shadow on some other. The next age may shift the +illumination, and show us sins as great as that of the slave-trade, but +which now enter into the daily practice of men claiming to be just and +wise. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + +Sierra Leone--Sources of its Population--Appearance of the Town and +surrounding Country--Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes--Treatment of +liberated Slaves--Police of Sierra Leone--Agencies for Emigration to the +West Indies--Colored Refugees from the United States--Unhealthiness of +Sierra Leone--Dr. Fergusson--Splendid Church--Melancholy Fate of a Queen's +Chaplain--Currency--Probable Ruin of the Colony. + +_October_ 15.--We arrived off the point of Sierra Leone, last night, and +were piloted up to the town, this morning. + +This is one of the most important and interesting places on the coast of +Africa. It was founded in 1787, chiefly through the benevolent agency of +Mr. Granville Sharp, as a place of refuge for a considerable number of +colored persons, who had left their masters, and were destitute and +unsheltered in the streets of London. Five years later, the population of +the colony was recruited by above a thousand slaves, who had fled from the +United States to Nova Scotia, during the American revolution. Again, in +1800, there was an addition of more than five hundred maroons, or outlawed +negroes, from Jamaica. And finally, since 1807, Sierra Leone has been the +receptacle for the great numbers of native Africans liberated from +slave-ships, on their capture by British cruisers. Pensioners, with their +families, from the black regiments in the West Indies, have likewise been +settled here. The population is now estimated at about forty-five +thousand; a much smaller amount, probably, than the aggregate of all the +emigrants who have been brought hither. The colony has failed to prosper, +but not through any lack of effort on the part of England. It is the +point, of all others on the African coast, where British energy, capital, +and life, have been most profusely expended. + +The aspect of the Cape, as you approach it from the sea, is very +favorable. You discern cultivated hills, the white mansions of the +wealthy, and thatched cottages, neat and apparently comfortable, abodes of +the poorer class. Over a space of several miles, the country appears to be +in a high state of improvement. One large village is laid out with the +regularity of Philadelphia, consisting of seven parallel streets, kept +free from grass, with thatched huts on either side, around which are small +plots of ground, full of bananas and plantain trees. The town itself is a +scene of far greater activity than any other settlement on the West Coast. +Great numbers of negroes, of various tribes and marks, are to be seen +there. So mixed, indeed, is the colored population, that there is little +sympathy or sense of fellowship among them. The Mandingoes seem to be the +most numerous, and are the most remarkable in personal appearance. Almost +without exception, they are very tall figures, and wear white robes, and +high caps without visors. + +These Mandingoes hold the faith of Mahomet, and at the time of our +arrival, were celebrating the feast of the Ramazan. Several hundreds of +them paraded through the streets in a confused mass, occasionally stopping +before some gentleman's house, and enacting sundry mummeries, in +consideration of which they expected to receive a present. In front of a +house where I happened to be, the whole body were ranged in order; and two +of them, one armed with a gun, and the other with a bow and arrow, ran +from end to end of the line, crouching down and pretending to be on the +watch against an enemy. At intervals, their companions, or a portion of +them, raised a cry, like those which one hears in the mosques of Asia. The +above seemed to compose nearly all the ceremony; and our liberality was in +proportion to the entertainment, consisting merely of a handful of +coppers, scattered broadcast among the multitude. When this magnificent +guerdon was thus proffered to their acceptance, they forthwith forgot +their mummery, and joined in a general scramble. The king, or chief, now +stept forward, and protested energetically against this mode of +distribution; it being customary to consign all the presents to him, to be +disposed of according to his better judgment. However, the mob picked up +the coppers, and showed themselves indifferently well contented. + +When cargoes of slaves are brought to Sierra Leone, they are placed in a +receptacle called the Queen's Yard, where they remain until the +constituted authorities have passed judgment on the ship. This seldom +requires more than a week. The liberated slaves are then apprenticed for +five, seven, or nine years; the Government requiring one pound ten +shillings sterling from the person who takes them. Unless applicants come +forward, these victims of British philanthropy are turned adrift, to be +supported as they may, or, unless Providence take all the better care of +them, to starve. For the sick, however, there is admittance to the +Government Hospital; and the countrymen of the new-comers, belonging to +the same tribe, lend them such aid as is in their power. Food, consisting +principally of rice, cassadas, and plantains, or bananas, is extremely +cheap; insomuch that a penny a day will supply a man with enough to eat. +The market is plentifully supplied with meats, fowls, and vegetables, and +likewise with other articles, which may be tidbits to an African stomach, +but are not to be met with in our bills of fare. For instance, among other +such delicacies, I saw several rats, each transfixed with a wooden skewer, +and some large bats, looking as dry as if they had given up the ghost a +month ago. Supporting themselves on food of this kind, it is not to be +wondered at, that the working-classes find it possible to live at a very +low rate of labor. The liberated slaves receive from four to six pence, +and the Kroomen nine pence per diem; these wages constituting their sole +support. + +As may be supposed, so heterogeneous and wild a population as that of +Sierra Leone requires the supervision of a strict and energetic police. +Accordingly, the peace is preserved, and crimes prevented, by a whole army +of constables, who, in a cheap uniform of blue cotton, with a white badge +on the arm, and a short club as their baton of office, patrol the streets, +day and night. Their number cannot be less than two or three hundred. + +There is a desire, in some quarters, to destroy the colony of Sierra +Leone; and one of the means for accomplishing this end is, of procuring +the emigration of the colored colonists to the West Indies. For this +purpose there are three different agencies. One has over its +door:--"British Guiana Emigration Office;" another is for Trinidad; and a +third for Jamaica. + +Great promises are made to persons proposing to emigrate; such as a free +passage to the West Indies, wages of from seventy-five cents to a dollar +per day, and permission to return when they choose. Very few, however, of +those who have been long resident here, can be induced to avail themselves +of these offers, small as are the earnings of labor at Sierra Leone. They +believe that the stipulations are not observed; that emigrants, on their +arrival in the West Indies, will be called upon to pay their passages, and +that it will not be at their option to return. In short, they suspect +emigration to be only a more plausible name for the slave-trade. The +Kroomen are the class most sought for as emigrants, although negroes of +any tribe are greedily received. Even the Africans just re-captured are +sent off, as the authorities are pleased to term it, "voluntarily." The +last emigration, consisting of somewhat less than two hundred and fifty +persons, included seventy-six slaves, almost that instant landed from a +prize. A respectable merchant assured me, that these men were not +permitted to communicate with their countrymen, but were hurried off to +the vessel, without knowing whither they were bound. The acting governor, +Dr. Fergusson, denied the truth of this, although he admitted that the +seventy-six liberated slaves did emigrate to the West Indies, very soon +after landing from the prize. + +It is to be remarked, that the white inhabitants of Sierra Leone, as well +as the colored people, entertain very unfavorable notions of this scheme +of procuring laborers for the West Indies. The best defence of it, +perhaps, is, that neither blacks nor whites can flourish in this +settlement, and that a transportation from its poor soil and sickly +climate, to any other region, may probably be for the better. But, +undeniably, the British government is less scrupulous as to the methods of +carrying out its philanthropic projects, than most other nations in their +schemes of self-aggrandizement. + +In Freetown, which is the residence of all the Europeans, are to be found +what remains of the emigrants from Nova Scotia, and their descendants. The +whole number transported hither at several periods, was about fifteen +hundred. Not more than seventy or eighty of these people, or their +progeny, now survive upon the spot. Our pilot is one of the number. He +affirms, that his countrymen were promised fifty acres of land, each, in +Sierra Leone, on condition of relinquishing the land already in their +possession in Nova Scotia. With this understanding they emigrated to +Africa; but, in more than half a century which has since elapsed, the +government has never found it convenient to fulfil its obligations. Only +two or three acres have been assigned to each individual. Meantime, the +body of emigrants has dwindled away, until the standard six feet of earth +by two, the natural inheritance of every human being, has sufficed for +almost all of them, as well as fifty, or five thousand acres could have +done. These emigrants were the colonial slaves, who were taken or ran away +from the United States, during the Revolutionary war. Considered +physically and statistically, their movement was anything but an +advantageous one. It would be matter of curious speculation to inquire +into the relative proportions now alive, of slaves who remained upon our +southern soil, and of these freed men, together with the amount of their +posterity. Not, of course, that it has been in any degree a fair +experiment as to the result of emancipating and colonizing slaves. The +trial of that experiment has been left to America; and it has been +commenced in a manner that might induce England to mistrust her own +beneficence, when she contrasts Liberia with Sierra Leone. + +This settlement has been known as "The White Man's Grave;" and it is +certainly a beautiful spot for a grave--as lovely as one of those +ornamental cemeteries, now so fashionable, and on which so much of our +taste is lavished; as if only the dead had leisure for the enjoyment of +shrubbery and sculpture. Sierra Leone, however, is by no means the fatal +spot that it once was. Formerly, a governor was expected to die every +year, although a few held the reins of power, and enjoyed the pomp and +dignity of office, twice or even thrice that period. Brave and excellent +men have accepted the station, on this fearful tenure. Among them was +Colonel Denham, the adventurous traveller in Africa. Very great mortality +likewise prevailed among the merchants, military and civil officers, and +soldiers. This was partly owing to the recklessness of their mode of life. +The rich were in the habit of giving champagne-breakfasts at noon, and +heavy and luxurious suppers at night. The continual neighborhood and near +prospect of death made them gaily desperate; so that they grew familiar +with him, and regarded him almost as a boon companion. And, besides, in a +sickly climate, each individual is confident of his own personal immunity +against the disease which, he is ready to allow, may be fatal to those +around him. I have noticed this absurd hallucination in others, and been +conscious of it in myself. In battle it is the same--the bullet is +expected to strike any and every breast, except one's own--and here, +perhaps, is the great secret of courage. + +Latterly, the Europeans at Sierra Leone practise a more temperate life. +Another circumstance that has conduced to render the settlement less +insalubrious, is the clearing of lands in the vicinity, and conversion of +the rank jungle into cultivated fields. The good effect of this change +will be readily appreciated by those who have noticed the improved health +of our Western settlers, as the forest falls before the axe; or who have +seen the difference between the inhabitants of old and new lands, in any +country. + +It is said, by the old residents here, that they do not find it very +sickly, except once in seven years, when an epidemic rages, and carries +off many settlers. This has happened regularly since 1823, until the +present year, when, in the proper order of things, the angel of death +should have re-appeared. Several persons provided for their safety by +quitting the place; and others made their arrangement to retreat, on the +first symptoms of danger. But the year, thus far, seems to have been +distinguished by no peculiar mortality. + +Life, in a climate like this, must generally be much more brief than in +temperate regions, even if it do not yield at once to the violence of +disease. Yet there are circumstances of Europeans attaining a good and +green old age at Sierra Leone. Mr. Hornell, a Scotch merchant of great +wealth and probity--which latter virtue is rare enough, in this quarter, +to deserve special mention--has resided here fifteen years, and +twenty-seven years in the West Indies. He lives regularly, but generously +imbibing ale, and brandy-and-water, in moderate quantities, every day of +his life. + +The governor, Colonel George Macdonald, is now absent in England. In the +interim, the duties of the office are performed by Dr. Fergusson, a +mulatto in color, but born in Scotland, and married to a white lady, who +now resides in that country. Dr. Fergusson was regularly educated at +Edinburgh, and is a medical officer of the British army; a man of noble +and commanding figure, handsome and intellectual countenance, and finished +manners. He is affable, as well as dignified, in his deportment, and +fluent and interesting in conversation. To him, and five or six other men +of color, whom I have met on the coast, I should refer, as proofs that +individuals of the African race may, with due advantages, be cultivated +and refined so as to compare with the best specimens of white gentlemen. + +There is a large church here, said to have cost seventy thousand pounds +sterling; notwithstanding which vast expenditure, divine service has +ceased to be performed. The last clergyman, a young man universally +beloved and respected, lost his life, two or three years ago. He had gone +with a party of friends, five in all, on board a homeward-bound vessel, +which lay at a short distance from the shore. On their return the boat +capsized and sunk. The five Kroomen saved themselves, by swimming, until +picked up by a canoe; the five whites were lost; and the young clergyman +among them. The latter swam well, and was almost within reach of a canoe, +when he threw up his hands, exclaiming, "God have mercy on me!"--and +disappeared. A shark had undoubtedly seized him, at the moment when he +believed himself safe. This gentleman held the office of Queen's Chaplain; +and since his melancholy fate, no new appointment of that nature has been +made. If credit be due to the statements reciprocally made by the +colonists, in reference to one another, there is great need of teachers to +inculcate the principles of religion, morality, and brotherly love; +although the spiritual instruction heretofore bestowed (which has cost +large sums to the pious in England) has been almost entirely thrown away. +There are some missionaries here, who have directed their labors +principally to the business of education. + +The tide runs so strongly, into and out of the river, that such accidents +as that which befell the five Europeans, above-mentioned, are of no +unfrequent occurrence. When boats or canoes are upset, it is impossible +for the passengers to swim against the current. We had an instance of the +danger, while at anchor there. The captain was seated in his cabin, with +the stern windows open, when he heard a native in a canoe, under the +stern, say "Man drown!" Being asked what he meant, he reiterated the +words, pointing towards the sea. Just then, a cry was indistinctly heard. +Two of our boats were instantly despatched, and picked up three Kroomen, +whose canoe had sunk, leaving them to the mercy of the current, which was +rapidly drifting them towards the ocean. The Humane Society of Sierra +Leone bestows a reward for every person rescued from drowning. In this +instance, of course, no claim was made upon their funds. + +The currency here differs from that of all the other settlements on the +coast, except those belonging to Great Britain. The Spanish and South +American doubloons are valued at only sixty-four shillings sterling each, +or fifteen dollars and thirty-six cents; while they are worth elsewhere, +sixteen dollars. Spanish and South American dollars pass at about one per +cent. discount. The English sovereign is reckoned at four dollars eighty +cents; and the French five-franc piece at ninety-two cents. The gold and +silver coin of the United States is not current at Sierra Leone. Bills on +London, at thirty days sight, are worth from par to five per cent. +premium, and may actually be sold in small sums (say, from £100 to £2000) +at fair rates. + +Pilotage is five shillings sterling per foot; and the port-charges are so +exorbitant as to prevent the entrance of many vessels, which would +otherwise stop to try the market. Of late years, the trade of Sierra Leone +has suffered great diminution. Money having been lost on all the timber +exported, that business is at present nearly abandoned. Another cause of +decay is the withdrawal of the British squadron, which has now its +principal rendezvous at Ascension. More than all, as contributing to the +decline of the colony, the home-government has discontinued the greater +part of the assistance formerly rendered. The governor, colonial +secretary, and chief justice, are believed to be all the civil officers +who now draw their salaries from England. The military force consists of a +captain, five or six subalterns, and probably two or three hundred +soldiers. In consequence of the failure of support from the +mother-country, the colony has imposed higher duties upon certain +articles, in order to try the experiment of raising a revenue from their +own resources. The most sagacious and best informed residents predict that +the result aimed at will not follow, and that three or four years will +suffice to render the colony of Sierra Leone bankrupt. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels--Causes of that +Failure--High character of the Commodore and Commander--Similar +ill-success of the French Squadron--Success of the English, and +why--Results effected by the American Squadron. + + +It will not have escaped the reader's notice, that the foregoing journal +of our cruise records not the capture of a single slave-vessel, either by +our own ship or any other belonging to the American squadron. Such is the +fact, and such it must inevitably be, so long as the circumstances, which +prevented our efficiency in that respect, shall continue to exist. The +doctrines relative to the right of search, held by our Government and +cordially sanctioned by the people, declare that the cruisers of no +foreign nation have a right to search, visit, or in any way detain an +American vessel on the high seas. Denying the privilege to others, we must +of course allow the same inviolability to a foreign flag, as we assert for +that of our own country. Hence, our national ships can detain or examine +none but American vessels, or those which they find sailing under the +American flag. But no slave-vessel would display this flag. The laws of +the United States declare the slave-trade, if exercised by any of its +citizens, to be piracy, and punishable with death; the laws of Spain, +Portugal and Brazil, are believed to be different, or, at least, if they +threaten the same penalty, are certain never to inflict it. Consequently, +all slaves will be careful to sail under the flag of one of these latter +nations, and thus avoid the danger of losing life as well as property, in +the event of capture. + +Undoubtedly, many American vessels have been sold to foreigners, by +unprincipled citizens of our country, with a belief or full understanding +that they were to be employed in this nefarious trade. In some instances, +such vessels have been sold, with stipulations in the contract, binding +the seller to deliver them at slave-stations on the coast of Africa; they +have been sent out to those stations under American colors, and commanded +by American captains; and there, being transferred to new masters, they +have immediately taken on board their cargoes of human flesh. But how is +an American cruiser to take hold of a vessel so circumstanced? On her +departure from the United States, and until the transfer takes place, she +is provided with regular papers, and probably sails for her destined port +with a cargo which may be used in lawful, as well as unlawful trade. After +the transfer, she appears under foreign colors, is furnished with foreign +papers, commanded by a foreign master, and manned by a foreign crew. It is +not to be presumed that this change of nationality will be effected in +presence of one of our men-of-war. How then can such a vessel be taken or +molested, so long as the present treaties and laws continue in force? + +It is well that the public should be prepared for an inefficiency which +can hardly fail to continue; and, in justice to the American squadron, it +should be imputed to the true cause, and not to any lack of energy or +good-will on the part of the officers. Whatever be their zeal (and +hitherto they have been active and indefatigable), it is almost certain +that their efforts will not be crowned with success, in the capture of a +single prize. The Commodore, under whose general direction we have acted, +is a gentleman of the highest professional character, persevering, +sagacious, and determined, and well known as such, both in and out of the +service. The commanders of the different vessels were likewise men of +elevated character, zealous in performing their duty, and honorably +ambitious of distinction. If the incentive of gain be reckoned stronger +than considerations of duty and honor, it was not wanting; for, besides +half the value of the vessel, each liberated slave would have been worth +twenty-five dollars to the captors--a handsome amount of prize-money, in a +cargo of six or eight hundred. + +The French, like ourselves, having no reciprocal treaties with Spain, +Portugal, and Brazil, are equally unsuccessful in making prizes. Eleven of +their vessels of war were stationed on the coast, during the period of our +cruise, but effected not a single capture. England, by virtue of her +treaties with the three nations above mentioned, empowers her cruisers to +take slave-vessels under either of their flags. Hence the success of the +English commanders; a success which is sometimes tauntingly held up, in +contrast with what is most unjustly termed the sluggishness of our own +squadron. + +Still, the presence of American national vessels, on the coast of Africa, +has not been unattended with results that may partly compensate for the +sacrifice of human life and health, which the climate renders inevitable. +The trade of the United States has been protected. The natives have been +taught, that the humblest American merchant-vessel sails under the shadow +of a flag, which guarantees security to everything that it covers. The +colonies of Liberia have been made more respectable in the eyes of the +barbarian nations that surround them. This latter advantage it is +creditable to our country to bestow; for the United States demand from +Liberia no commercial exemptions, nor anything in return for the +countenance which she lends to that growing commonwealth. Never before, +perhaps, did a colony exist, so entirely free from vexatious interference +on the part of the mother-country, and so carefully fostered by the +benevolence that planted it. Slight as is the present political connection +between the United States and Liberia, the latest advices inform us that +it is in contemplation to sever the silken thread. The Colonization +Society, I understand, is discussing the expediency of relinquishing its +further control over the government, and allowing the infant colony to +take a place among independent nations. Should this event come to pass, +and Liberia either find the protection of another maritime power, or prove +adequate to protect herself, there will be one reason the less for sending +a squadron of gallant ships to chase shadows in a deadly climate. + +THE END. + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Journal of an African Cruiser, by Horatio Bridge + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + +***** This file should be named 7937-8.txt or 7937-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/9/3/7937/ + +Produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Journal of an African Cruiser + Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, + Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest + On The West Coast Of Africa + +Author: Horatio Bridge + +Editor: Nathaniel Hawthorne + + +Release Date: April, 2005 [EBook #7937] +This file was first posted on June 2, 2003 +Last Updated: May 22, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + + + + +Text file produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. Ellison and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + + +</pre> + + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER + </h1> + <h4> + Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, + Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest On The West Coast Of Africa. + </4><br /> + </h4> + <h2> + By Horatio Bridge + </h2> + <h4> + An Officer Of The U. S. Navy. <br /> <br /> Edited By Nathaniel Hawthorne. + <br /> <br /> London: Wiley And Putnam, 6, Waterloo Place 1845 <br /> <br /> + [Entered At Stationers' Hall.] + </h4> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PREFACE. + </h2> + <p> + The following pages have afforded occupation for many hours, which might + else have been wasted in idle amusements, or embittered by still idler + regrets at the destiny which carried the writer to a region so little + seductive as Africa, and kept him there so long. He now offers them to the + public, after some labor bestowed in correction and amendment, but + retaining their original form, that of a daily Journal, which better + suited his lack of literary practice and constructive skill, and was in + fitter keeping with the humble pretensions of the work, than a + re-arrangement on artistic principles. At various points of the narrative, + however, he has introduced observations or disquisitions from two or three + common-place books, which he kept simultaneously with the Journal; and + thus, in a few instances, remarks are inserted as having been made early + in the cruise, while, in reality, they were perhaps the ultimate result of + his reflection and judgment upon the topics discussed. + </p> + <p> + If, in any portion of the book, the author may hope to engage the + attention of the public, it will probably be in those pages which treat of + Liberia. The value of his evidence, as to the condition and prospects of + that colony, must depend, not upon any singular acuteness of observation + or depth of reflection, but upon his freedom from partizan bias, and his + consequent ability to perceive a certain degree of truth, and inclination + to express it frankly. A northern man, but not unacquainted with the slave + institutions of our own and other countries—neither an Abolitionist + nor a Colonizationist—without prejudice, as without prepossession—he + felt himself thus far qualified to examine the great enterprise which he + beheld in progress. He enjoyed, moreover, the advantage of comparing + Liberia, as he now saw it, with a personal observation of its condition + three years before, and could therefore mark its onward or retreating + footsteps, and the better judge what was permanent, and what merely + temporary or accidental. With these qualifications, he may at least hope + to have spoken so much of truth as entirely to gratify neither the friends + nor enemies of this interesting colony. + </p> + <p> + The West Coast of Africa is a fresher field for the scribbling tourist, + than most other parts of the world. Few visit it, unless driven by stern + necessity; and still fewer are disposed to struggle against the enervating + influence of the climate, and keep up even so much of intellectual + activity as may suffice to fill a diurnal page of Journal or Commonplace + Book. In his descriptions of the settlements of the various nations of + Europe, along that coast, and of the native tribes, and their trade and + intercourse with the whites, the writer indulges the idea that he may add + a trifle to the general information of the public. He puts forth his work, + however, with no higher claims than as a collection of desultory sketches, + in which he felt himself nowise bound to tell all that it might be + desirable to know, but only to be accurate in what he does tell. On such + terms, there is perhaps no very reprehensible audacity in undertaking the + history of a voyage; and he smiles to find himself, so simply and with so + little labor, acquiring a title to be enrolled among the authors of books! + </p> + <h3> + APRIL 5, 1845. + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_TOC"> EXPANDED CONTENTS </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> <b>JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER.</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_TOC" id="link2H_TOC"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + EXPANDED CONTENTS + </h2> + <h3> + CHAP. I. + </h3> + <p> + Departure—Mother Carey's Chickens—The Gulf Stream—Rapid + Progress—The French Admiral's Cook—Nautical Musicians—The + sick Man—The Burial at Sea—Arrival at the Canaries—Santa + Cruz—Love and Crime—Island of Grand Canary—Troglodytes + near Las Palmas. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. II. + </h3> + <p> + Nelson's Defeat at Santa Cruz—The Mantilla—Arrival at Porto + Grande—Poverty of the Inhabitants—Portuguese Exiles at the + Cape de Verds—City of Porto Praya—Author's Submersion—Green + Turtle—Rainy Season—Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. III. + </h3> + <p> + Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.—Arrival at Cape Palmas—American + Missionaries—Prosperity of the Catholic Mission—King Freeman, + and his Royal Robe—Customs of the Kroo-People—Condition of + Native Women. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. IV. + </h3> + <p> + Return to Monrovia—Sail for Porto Praya—The Union Hotel—Reminiscences + of Famine at the Cape de Verds—Frolics of Whalemen—Visit to + the Island of Antonio—A Dance—Fertility of the Island—A + Yankee Clockmaker—A Mountain Ride—City of Poverson—Point + de Sol—Kindness of the Women—The handsome Commandant—A + Portuguese Dinner. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. V. + </h3> + <p> + Arrival of the Macedonian—Return to the Coast of Africa—Emigrants + to Liberia—Tornadoes—Maryland in Liberia—Nature of its + Government—Perils of the Bar—Mr. Russwurm—The Grebo + Tribe—Manner of disposing of their Dead. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. VI. + </h3> + <p> + Settlement of Sinoe—Account of a Murder by the Natives—Arrival + at Monrovia—Appearance of the Town—Temperance—Law-Suits + and Pleadings—Expedition up the St. Paul's River—Remarks on + the Cultivation of Sugar—Prospects of the Coffee-culture in Liberia—Desultory + observations on Agriculture. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. VII + </h3> + <p> + High Character of Governor Roberts—Suspected Slaver—Dinner on + Shore—Facts and Remarks relative to the Slave-Trade—British + Philanthropy—Original cost of a Slave—Anchor at Sinoe—Peculiarities + and distinctive Characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen—The King + of Appollonia—Religion and Morality among the Natives—Influence + of the Women. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. VIII. + </h3> + <p> + Palaver at Sinoe—Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen—Palaver at + Settra Kroo—Mrs. Sawyer—Objections to the Marriage of + Missionaries—A Centipede—Arrival at Cape Palmas—Rescue + of the Sassy-wood drinker—Hostilities between the Natives and + Colonists. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. IX. + </h3> + <p> + Palaver with King Freeman—Remarks on the Influence of Missionaries—Palaver + at Rock-Boukir—Narrative of Captain Farwell's murder—Scene of + Embarkation through the Surf—Sail for Little Berebee. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. X. + </h3> + <p> + Palaver at Little Berebee—Death of the Interpreter and King Ben + Cracko and burning of the Town—Battle with the Natives, and + Conflagration of several Towns—Turkey Buzzards—A Love-Letter—Moral + Reflections—Treaty of Grand Berebee—Prince Jumbo and his + Father—Native system of Expresses—Curiosity of the Natives. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XI. + </h3> + <p> + Madeira—Aspect of the Island—Annual races—"Hail + Columbia!"—Ladies, Cavaliers, and Peasants—Dissertation upon + Wines—The Clerks of Funchal—Decay of the Wine-Trade—Cultivation + of Pine-Trees—A Night in the Streets—Beautiful Church—A + Sunday-evening Party—Currency of Madeira. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XII. + </h3> + <p> + Passage back to Liberia—Coffee Plantations—Dinner on shore—Character + of Colonel Hicks—Shells and Sentiment—Visit to the + Council-chamber—The New-Georgia Representative—A Slave-ship—Expedition + up the St. Paul's—Sugar Manufactory—Maumee's beautiful + grand-daughter—The Sleepy Disease—The Mangrove-tree. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XIII. + </h3> + <p> + The Theatre—Tribute to Governor Buchanan—Arrival at Settra + Kroo—Jack Purser—The Mission School—Cleanliness of the + Natives—Uses of the Palm-tree—Native Money—Mrs. Sawyer—Influence + of her character on the Natives—Characteristics of English + Merchant-Captains—Trade of England with the African Coast. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XIV. + </h3> + <p> + American Trade—Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales—Standard + of Commercial Integrity—Dealings with Slave-Traders—Trade with + the Natives—King's "Dash"—Native Commission-Merchants—The + Gold Trade—The Ivory Trade—The "Round Trade"—Respectability + of American Merchant-Captains—Trade with the American Squadron. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XV. + </h3> + <p> + Jack Purser's wife—Fever on board—Arrival at Cape Palmas—Strange + figure and equipage of a Missionary—King George of Grand Bassam—Intercourse + with the Natives—Tahon—Grand Drewin—St. Andrew's—Picaninny + Lahoo—Natives attacked by the French—Visit to King Peter—Sketches + of Scenery and People at Cape Lahon. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XVI. + </h3> + <p> + Visit from two English Trading-Captains—The invisible King of + Jack-a-Jack—Human sacrifices—French fortresses at Grand + Bassam, at Assinoe, and other points—Objections to the locality of + Liberia—Encroachments on the limits of that Colony—Arrival in + Axim—Sketches of that Settlement—Dixcove—Civilized + Natives—An Alligator. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XVII. + </h3> + <p> + Dutch Settlement at El Mina—Appearance of the Town—Cape Coast + Castle—Burial-place of L. E. L.—An English dinner—Festivity + on shipboard—British, Dutch, and Danish Accra—Native wives of + Europeans—A Royal Princess—An Armadillo—Sail for St. + Thomas—Aspect of the Island. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XVIII. + </h3> + <p> + Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves—Mode of drying Coffee—Black + Priests—Madam Domingo's Hotel—Catering for the Mess—Man + swallowed by a Shark—Letters from home—Fashionable equipage—Arrival + at the Gaboon—King Glass and Louis Philippe—Mr. Griswold—Mr. + and Mrs. Wilson—Character of the Gaboon People—Symptoms of + illness. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XIX. + </h3> + <p> + Recovery from Fever—Projected Independence of Liberia—Remarks + on Climate and Health—Peril from Breakers—African Arts—Departure + for the Cape de Verds—Man Overboard. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XX. + </h3> + <p> + Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea—The Gar-fish—The Booby and + the Mullet—Improvement of Liberia—Its prospects—Higher + social position of its Inhabitants—Intercourse between the White and + Colored. Races—A night on shore—Farewell to Liberia—Reminiscence + of Robinson Crusoe. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XXI. + </h3> + <p> + Sierra Leone—Sources of its Population—Appearance of the Town + and surrounding Country—Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes—Treatment + of liberated Slaves—Police of Sierra Leone—Agencies for + Emigration to the West Indies—Colored Refugees from the United + States—Unhealthiness of Sierra Leone—Dr. Fergusson—Splendid + Church—Melancholy Fate of a Queen's Chaplain—Currency—Probable + Ruin of the Colony. + </p> + <h3> + CHAP. XXII. + </h3> + <p> + Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels—Causes of + that Failure—High character of the Commodore and Commanders—Similar + ill-success of the French Squadron—Success of the English, and why—Results + effected by the American Squadron. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER. + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. + </h2> + <p> + Departure—Mother Carey's Chickens—The Gulf stream—Rapid + Progress—The French Admiral's Cook—Nautical Musicians—The + Sick Man—The Burial at Sea—Arrival at the Canaries—Santa + Cruz—Love and Crime—Island of Grand Canary—Troglodytes + near Las Palmas. + </p> + <p> + <i>June</i> 5,1843.—Towed by the steamer Hercules, we go down the + harbor of New York, at 7 o'clock A.M. It is the fourth time the ship has + moved, since she was launched from the Navy Yard at Portsmouth. Her first + experience of the ocean was a rough one; she was caught in a wintry gale + from the north-east, dismasted, and towed back into Portsmouth harbor, + within three days after her departure. The second move brought us to New + York; the third, from the Navy Yard into the North river; and the fourth + will probably bring us to an anchorage off Sandy Hook. After a hard winter + of four months, in New Hampshire, we go to broil on the coast of Africa, + with ice enough in our blood to keep us comfortably cool for six months at + least. + </p> + <p> + At 10 A.M. the steamer cast off, and we anchored inside of Sandy Hook; at + 12 Meridian, hoisted the broad pennant of Commodore Perry, and saluted it + with thirteen guns. At 3 P.M. the ship gets under way, and with a good + breeze, stands out to sea. Our parting letters are confided to the Pilot. + That weather-beaten veteran gives you a cordial shake with his broad, hard + hand, wishes you a prosperous cruise, and goes over the side. His life is + full of greetings and farewells; the grasp of his hand assures the + returning mariner that his weary voyage is over; and when the swift pilot + boat hauls her wind, and leaves you to go on your course alone, you feel + that the last connecting link with home is broken. On our ship's deck, + there were perhaps some heart-aches, but no whimpering. Few strain their + eyes to catch parting glimpses of the receding highlands; it is only the + green ones who do that. The Old Salt seeks more substantial solace in his + dinner. It is matter of speculation, moreover, whether much of the misery + of parting does not, with those unaccustomed to the sea, originate in the + disturbed state of their stomachs. + </p> + <p> + 7.—We are in the Gulf-stream. The temperature of the water is ten + degrees above that of the air. Though the ship is deep, being filled with + stores, and therefore sailing heavily, we are yet taken along eleven knots + by the wind, and two or three more by the current. Swiftly as we fly, + however, we are not quite alone upon the waters. Mother Carey's chickens + follow us continually, dipping into the white foam of our track, to seize + the food which our keel turns up for them out of the ocean depths. + Mysterious is the way of this little wanderer over the sea. It is never + seen on land; and naturalists have yet to discover where it reposes, and + where it hatches its young; unless we adopt the idea of the poets, that it + builds its nest upon the turbulent bosom of the deep. It is a sort of + nautical sister of the fabled bird of Paradise, which was footless, and + never alighted out of the air. Hundreds of miles from shore, in sunshine + and in tempest, you may see the Stormy Petrel. Among the unsolvable + riddles which nature propounds to mankind, we may reckon the question, Who + is Mother Carey, and where does she rear her chickens? + </p> + <p> + 9.—We are out of the Gulf-stream, and the ship is now rolling + somewhat less tumultuously than heretofore. For four days, we have been + blest with almost too fair a wind. A strong breeze, right aft, has been + taking us more than two hundred and forty miles a day on our course. But + the incessant and uneasy motion of the ship deprives us of any steady + comfort. In spite of all precautions, tables, chairs, and books, have + tumbled about in utter confusion, and the monotony is enlivened by the + breaking of bottles and crash of crockery. As some consolation, our Log + Book shows that we have made more than half of a thousand miles, within + the last forty-eight hours. Land travelling, with all the advantages of + railroads, can hardly compete with the continual diligence of a ship + before a prosperous breeze. + </p> + <p> + 11.—Spoke an American brig from Liverpool, bound for New York. + Though the boat was called away, and our letters were ready, it was all at + once determined not to board her; and, after asking the captain to report + us, we stood on our course again. The newspapers will tell our friends + something of our whereabouts; or, at least, that on a certain day, we were + encountered at a certain point upon the sea. + </p> + <p> + 13.—Wind still fair, and weather always fine. We have not tacked + ship once since leaving Sandy Hook, and are almost ready to quarrel with + the continual fair wind. There is nothing else to find fault with, except + the performances of our French cook in the wardroom, who came on board + just before we left New York, and made us believe that we had obtained a + treasure. He told us that he had cooked for a French Admiral. We swore him + to secrecy on that point, lest the Commodore should be disposed to engage + the services of so distinguished an artist for his own table. But our + self-congratulations were not of long continuance. The sugared omelet + passed with slight remark. The beefsteak smothered in onions was merely + prohibited in future. But when, on the second day, the potatoes were + served with mashed lemon-peel, the general discontent burst forth; and we + scolded till we laughed again at the dilemma in which we found ourselves. + Next to being without food, is the calamity of being subjected, in the + middle of the Atlantic, to the diabolical arts of the French Admiral's + cook. At sea, the arrangements of the table are of far more importance + than on shore. There are so few incidents, that one's dinner becomes, what + Dr. Johnson affirmed it always to be, the affair of which a man thinks + oftenest in the course of the day. + </p> + <p> + 16.—All day, the wind has been ahead, and very light. This evening, + a dead calm is upon the sea; but the sky is cloudless, and the air pure + and soft. All the well are enjoying the fine weather. The commodore and + captain walk the poop-deck; the other officers, except the lieutenant and + young gentlemen of the watch, are smoking on the forecastle, or + promenading the quarter-deck. A dozen steady old salts are rolling along + the gangways; and the men are clustered in knots between the guns, + talking, laughing, or listening to the yarns of their comrades—an + amusement to which sailors are as much addicted as the Sultan in the + Arabian Nights. But music is the order of the evening. Though a band is + not allowed to a ship of our class, there are always good musicians to be + found among the reckless and jolly fellows composing a man-of-war's crew. + A big landsman from Utica, and a dare-devil topman from Cape Cod, are the + leading vocalists; Symmes, the ship's cook, plays an excellent violin; and + the commodore's steward is not to be surpassed upon the tambourine. A + little black fellow, whose sobriquet is Othello, manages the castanets, + and there is a tolerable flute played by one of the afterguard. The + concerts usually commence with sentimental songs, such as "Home, sweet + Home," and the Canadian Boat Song: but the comic always carries off the + palm; "Jim along Josey," "Lucy Long," "Old Dan Tucker," and a hundred + others of the same character, are listened to delightedly by the crowd of + men and boys collected round the fore-hatch, and always ready to join in + the choruses. Thus a sound of mirth floats far and wide over the twilight + sea, and would seem to indicate that all goes well among us. + </p> + <p> + But the delicious atmosphere, and the amusements of the ship, bring not + joy to all on board. There are sick men swinging uneasily in their + hammocks; and one poor fellow, whose fever threatens to terminate fatally, + tosses painfully in his cot. His messmates gently bathe his hot brow, and, + watching every movement, nurse him as tenderly as a woman. Strange, that + the rude heart of a sailor should be found to possess such tenderness as + we seldom ask or find, in those of our own sex, on land! There, we leave + the gentler humanities of life to woman; here, we are compelled to imitate + her characteristics, as well as our sterner nature will permit. + </p> + <p> + 22.—The sick man died last night, and was buried to-day. His history + was revealed to no one. Where was his home, or whether he has left friends + to mourn his death, are alike unknown. Dying, he kept his own counsel, and + was content to vanish out of life, even as a speck of foam melts back into + the ocean. At 11 A.M., for the first time, in a cruise likely to be fatal + to many on board, the boatswain piped "all hands to bury the dead!" The + sailor's corpse, covered with the union of his country's flag, was placed + in the gangway. Two hundred and fifty officers and men stood around, + uncovered, and reverently listened to the beautiful and solemn burial + service, as it was read by one of the officers. The body was committed to + the deep, while the ship dashed onward, and had left the grave far behind, + even before the last words of the service were uttered. The boatswain + "piped down," and all returned to their duties sadly, and with thoughtful + countenances. + </p> + <p> + 23.—At 4 A.M., the island of Palma and the Peak of Teneriffe are in + full sight, though the lofty summit of the mountain is one hundred miles + distant. + </p> + <p> + 24.—At 5 A.M., anchored at Santa Cruz, capital of the island of + Teneriffe. The health-officer informed us that we must ride out a + quarantine of eight days. A fine precaution, considering that we are + direct from New York! After breakfast, I went to the mole, to see the + Consular Agent, on duty. While waiting in our boat, we were stared at by + thirty or forty loafers (a Yankee phrase, but strictly applicable to these + foreign vagabonds), of the most wretched kind. Some were dressed in coarse + shirts and trowsers, and some had only one of these habiliments. None + interested me, except a dirty, swarthy boy, with most brilliant black + eyes, who lay flat on his stomach, and gazed at us in silence. His + elf-like glance sparkles brightly in my memory. + </p> + <p> + One of the seamen in our boat spoke to the persons on shore in Spanish. I + inquired whether that were his mother-tongue, and learned that he was a + native of Mahon. On questioning him further, I ascertained that he was + concerned in a tragedy of which I had often heard, while on the + Mediterranean station, two or three years ago. A beautiful girl of + sixteen, of highly respectable family, fell in love with a young man, her + inferior in social rank, though of reputable standing. The affair was kept + secret between them. At length, the lover became jealous, and, one + evening, called his mistress out of her father's house, and stabbed her + five or six times. She died instantly, and her murderer fled. It was + believed in Mahon that he was drowned by falling overboard from the vessel + in which he escaped. Nevertheless, that murderer was the man with whom I + was speaking in the boat, now bearing another name, and a common sailor of + our ship. He told me his real name; and I heard, afterwards, that, when + drunk, he had confessed the murder to one of his messmates. + </p> + <p> + This incident illustrates what I have often thought, that the private + history of a man-of-war's crew, if truly told, would be full of high + romance, varied with stirring incident, and too often darkened with, deep + and deadly crime. Many go to sea with the old Robinson Crusoe spirit, + seeking adventure for its own sake; many, to escape the punishment of + guilt, which has made them outlaws of the land; some, to drown the memory + of slighted love; while others flee from the wreck of their broken + fortunes ashore, to hazard another shipwreck on the deep. The jacket of + the common sailor often covers a figure that has walked Broadway in a + fashionable coat. An officer sometimes sees his old school-fellow and + playmate taken to the gangway and flogged. Many a blackguard on board has + been bred in luxury; and many a good seaman has been a slaver and a + pirate. It is well for the ship's company, that the sins of individuals do + not, as in the days of Jonas, stir up tempests that threaten the + destruction of the whole. + </p> + <p> + The island of Grand Canary is one of the most interesting of the group at + which we have now arrived. The population of its capital, the city of Las + Palmas, is variously estimated at from nine thousand inhabitants, to twice + that number. The streets, however, have none of the bustle and animation + that would enliven an American town, of similar size. Around the city + there is an aspect of great fertility; fields of corn and grain, + palm-trees, and vineyards, occupy the valleys among the hills, and extend + along the shores, twining a glad green wreath about the circuit of the + island. The vines of Canary produce a wine which, two or three centuries + ago, was held in higher estimation than at present, and is supposed by + some to have been the veritable "sack" that so continually moistened the + throat of Falstaff. The very name of Canary is a cheerful one, associated + as it is with the idea of bounteous vineyards, and of those little golden + birds that make music all over the world. + </p> + <p> + The high hills that surround the city of Las Palmas are composed of soft + stone, the yielding quality of which has caused these cliffs to be + converted to a very singular purpose. The poorer people, who can find no + shelter above ground, burrow into the sides of the hill, and thus form + caves for permanent habitation, where they dwell like swallows in a + sand-bank. Judging from the number of these excavations, the mouths of + which appear on the hill-sides, there cannot be less than a thousand + persons living in the manner here described. Not only the destitute + inhabitants of Grand Canary, but vagabonds from Teneriffe and the other + islands, creep thus into the heart of the rock; and children play about + the entrances of the caverns as merrily as at a cottage-door: while, in + the gloom of the interior, you catch a glimpse of household furniture, and + women engaged in domestic avocations. It is like discovering a world + within the world. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. + </h2> + <p> + Nelson's defeat at Santa Cruz—The Mantilla—Arrival at Porto + Grande—Poverty of the inhabitants—Portuguese Exiles at the + Cape de Verds—City of Porto Prayo—Author's submersion—Green + Turtle—Rainy Season—Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + </p> + <p> + <i>July</i> 1.—Ashore at Santa Cruz. The population of the city is + reckoned at six or eight thousand. The streets are clean, and the houses + built in the Spanish fashion. Camels are frequent in the streets. + </p> + <p> + The landing at the Mole is generally bad, as Nelson found to his cost. It + is easy to perceive that, even in ordinary times, the landing of a large + party, though unopposed, must be a work of considerable difficulty. How + much more arduous, then, was the enterprise of the great Naval Hero, who + made his attack in darkness, and in the face of a well-manned battery, + which swept away all who gained foot-hold on the shore! The latter + obstacle might have been overcome by English valor, under Nelson's + guidance; but night, and the heavy surf, were the enemies that gave him + his first and only defeat. The little fort, under whose guns he was + carried by his step-son, after the loss of his arm, derived its chief + interest, in my eyes, from that circumstance. The glory of the great + Admiral sheds a lustre even upon the spot where success deserted him. In + the Cathedral of Santa Cruz are to be seen two English flags, which were + taken on that occasion, and are still pointed out with pride by the + inhabitants. I saw them five years ago, when they hung from the walls, + tattered and covered with dust; they are now enclosed in glass cases, to + which the stranger's attention is eagerly directed by the boys who swarm + around him. The defeat of Nelson took place on the anniversary of the + patron-saint of Santa Cruz; a coincidence which has added not a little to + the saint's reputation. It was by no means his first warlike exploit; for + he is said to have come to the assistance of the inhabitants, and routed + the Moors, when pressing the city hard, in the olden time. + </p> + <p> + We wandered about the city until evening, and then walked in the Plaza. + Here the ladies and gentlemen of the city promenade for an hour or two, + occasionally seating themselves on the stone benches which skirt the + square. Like other Spanish ladies, the lovely brunettes of Santa Cruz + generally wear the mantilla, so much more becoming than the bonnet. There + are just enough of bonnets worn by foreigners, and travelled Spanish + dames, to show what deformities they are, when contrasted with the + graceful veil. This head-dress could only be used in a climate like that + of Teneriffe, where there are no extremes of heat or cold. It is a proverb + that there is no winter and no summer here. So equable and moderate is the + temperature, that, we were assured, a person might, without inconvenience, + wear either thick or thin clothing, all the year round. With such a + climate, and with a fertile soil, it would seem that this must be almost a + Paradise. There is a great obstruction, however, to the welfare of the + inhabitants, in the want of water. It rains so seldom that the ground is + almost burnt up, and many cattle actually perish from thirst. It is said + that no less than thirty thousand persons have emigrated from the island, + within three years. + </p> + <p> + The productions of Teneriffe, for export, are wine and barilla. Of the + first, the greater part is sent to England, Russia and the United States. + About thirty thousand pipes are made annually, of which two thirds are + exported. Little or no wine is produced on the southern slope of the + island. The hills around Santa Cruz are little more than rugged peaks of + naked rock. The scenery is wild and bold, but sterile; and scattered + around are stupendous hills of lava, the products of former volcanic + eruptions, but which have, for ages, been cold and wave-washed. + </p> + <p> + 14.—Arrived at Porto Grande, in the island of St. Vincent's, one of + the Cape de Verds. The harbor is completely landlocked by the island of + St. Antonio, which stretches across its mouth. Still, there is, at times, + a considerable swell. The appearance of the land is barren, desolate, and + unpromising in the highest degree; and the town is in keeping with the + scenery. Eighty or ninety miserable hovels, constructed of small, loose + stones, in the manner of our stone-fences, stand in rows, with some + pretence of regularity. Besides the Governor and his aid, there are here + five white men, or rather Portuguese (for their claim to white blood is + not apparent in their complexions), viz. the Collector, the American + Consular Agent, a shop-keeper, whose goods are all contained in a couple + of trunks, and two private soldiers. We called to see the Governor, and + were politely received; he offered seats, and did the honors of the place + with dignity and affability. His pay is one dollar per diem. He has five + soldiers under his command, two of them Portuguese, and three native + negroes, one of whom has a crooked leg. + </p> + <p> + The people here are wretchedly poor, subsisting chiefly by fishing, and by + their precarious gains from ships which anchor in the port. The Collector + informed me that there had been sixty whale-ships in the harbor, within + the past year. The profits accruing from thence, however, are very + inadequate to the comfortable support of the inhabitants. The adults are + mostly covered with rags, while many of the children are entirely naked; + the cats and dogs (whose condition may be taken as no bad test of the + degree of bodily comfort in the community) are lean and skeleton-like. As + to religion, I saw nothing to remind me of it, except the ruins of an old + church. There has been no priest since the death of one who was drowned, a + few years ago, near Bird Island, a large rock, at the mouth of the harbor. + At the time of this fatal mishap, the reverend father was on a drunken + frolic, in company with some colored women. + </p> + <p> + The Cape de Verd Islands derive their name from the nearest point of the + mainland of Africa; they are under the dominion of Portugal, and, + notwithstanding their poverty, furnish a considerable revenue to that + country, over and above the expenses of the Colonial Government. This + revenue comes chiefly from the duties levied upon all imported articles, + and from the orchilla trade, which is monopolized by the Government at + home, and produces 50,000 dollars per annum. Another source of profit is + found in the tithes for the support of the Church, which, in some, if not + all the islands, have been seized by the Government (under a pledge for + the maintenance of the clergy), and are farmed out annually. These islands + supply the Portuguese with a place of honorable exile for officers who may + be suspected of heresy in politics, and hostility to existing + institutions. They are advanced a step in rank, to repay them (and a poor + requital it is) for the change from the delicious climate of Portugal, and + the gaieties of Lisbon, to the dreary solitude, the arid soil, and burning + and fever-laden air of the Cape de Verds. It is a melancholy thought, that + many an active intellect—many a generous and aspiring spirit—may + have been doomed to linger and perish here, chained, as it were, to the + rocks, like Prometheus, merely for having dreamed of kindling the fire of + liberty in their native land. + </p> + <p> + 22.—We have spent some days at Porto Praya, the capital of St. Jago, + the largest of the Cape de Verd islands; whence we sail to-day. A large + part of the population is composed of negroes and mulattoes, whose + appearance indicates that they are intemperate, dissolute, and vile. The + Portuguese residing here are generally but little better; as may be + supposed from the fact, that most of those who were not banished from + Portugal, for political or other offences, came originally to engage in + the slave-trade. + </p> + <p> + Going ashore to-day, we beached the boat, and a large negro, with a ragged + red shirt, waded out and took me on his shoulders. There is no position so + absurd, nor in which a man feels himself so utterly helpless, as when thus + dependant on the strength and sure-footedness of a fellow-biped. As we + left the boat, a heavy "roller" came in. The negro lost his footing, and I + my balance, and down we plunged into the surf. My sable friend seemed to + consider it a point of duty to hold stoutly by my legs, the inevitable + tendency of which manoeuvre was to keep my head under water. Having no + taste for a watery death, under these peculiar circumstances, I freed + myself by a vigorous kick, sprang to my feet, and seizing the negro by the + "ambrosial curls," pushed his head in turn under the surf. But seeing the + midshipmen and boat's crew laughing, noiselessly but heartily, at my + expense, the ludicrousness of the whole affair struck me so forcibly that + I joined in their mirth, and waded ashore as fast as possible. An + abolitionist, perhaps, might draw a moral from the story, and say that + all, who ride on the shoulders of the African race, deserve nothing better + than a similar overthrow. Sailed from Porto Praya. The bay of this port is + a good one, except in south-east gales, when the anchorage is dangerous. + The town, called Villa de Praya, contains about two thousand inhabitants + of every shade, the dark greatly predominating. Many vessels from Europe + and the United States, bound to India, Brazil, or Africa, find this a + convenient place to procure water and fresh provisions, and bring, in + return, much money into the city. There are three hundred troops here, + nearly all black, and commanded by forty Portuguese officers. The men are + under severe discipline, are tolerably well dressed, and make a soldierly + appearance. It is said that a St. Jago soldier formerly wore only a cocked + hat, being otherwise in a state of nature; but I cannot pretend to have + seen any instance of this extreme scantiness of equipment. + </p> + <p> + 23.—Saw a large green turtle asleep on the surface of the water. One + of our boats went alongside of him, and two men attempted to turn him over + with boat-hooks. He struggled successfully, however, to keep himself + "right side up," and, in a few moments, plunged beneath the surface. Once + upon his back, he would have been powerless and a prisoner, and we might + have hoped for the advantage of his presence at our mess-table. + </p> + <p> + 24.—At noon, the first rain came. It continued heavy and + unremitting, for twenty-four hours, after which there was a glimpse of the + blue sky. Two startling thunder-claps burst over the ship, at about 9 + o'clock, A.M. Last night, at 10, a heavy plunge carried away both our + chain bobstays at once, and all hands were turned up in the rain, to + secure the bowsprit. + </p> + <p> + The sanitary regulations of the squadron, induced by the commencement of + the rainy season, cause considerable mirth and some growling. One rule is, + that every man shall protect himself with flannel next his person, and at + night shall also wear a cloth-jacket and trowsers. Stoves are placed on + the berth-deck, to dry the atmosphere below. It is a curious fact, that, + in March last, at Portsmouth, N. H., with the thermometer at zero, we were + deprived of stoves the moment the powder came on board; while now in the + month of July, on the coast of Africa, sweltering at eighty degrees of + Fahrenheit, the fires are lighted throughout the ship. + </p> + <p> + 27.—Continual rain for the last three days. All miserable, but + getting used to it. + </p> + <p> + 29.—A clear day, and comfortably cool. Wind fair. + </p> + <p> + 30.—Made land, and saw an English brig of war. Commander Oakes, of + the Ferret, came on board. + </p> + <p> + 31.—Made Cape Mount. + </p> + <p> + <i>August</i> 1.—At 12, meridian, anchored at Cape Mesurado, off the + town of Monrovia. We find at anchor here the U. S. brig Porpoise, and a + French barque, as well as a small schooner, bearing the Liberian flag. + This consists of stripes and a cross, and may be regarded as emblematical + of the American origin of the colony, and of the Christian philanthropy to + which it owes its existence. Thirty or forty Kroomen came alongside. Three + officers of the Porpoise visited us. All are anxious to get back to the + United States. They coincide, however, in saying that, with simple + precautions, the health of this station is as good as that of any other. + They have had only a single case of fever on board; and, in that instance, + the patient was a man who ran away, and spent a night ashore. + </p> + <p> + My old acquaintance, Captain Cooper, came on board, and is to be employed + as pilot. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. + </h2> + <p> + Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.—Arrival at Cape Palmas—American + Missionaries—Prosperity of the Catholic Mission—King Freeman, + and his royal robe—Customs of the Kroo-people—Condition of + native women. + </p> + <p> + <i>August</i> 2.—We were visited by Governor Roberts, Doctor Day, + and General Lewis, the latter being colonial secretary, and military chief + of the settlement. They looked well, and welcomed me back to Liberia with + the cordiality of old friendship. The Governor was received by the + commodore, captain, and officers, and saluted with eleven guns. He and his + suite dined in the cabin, and some of the officers of the Porpoise in the + ward-room. In the evening, we brought out all our forces for the amusement + of our distinguished guests. First, the negro band sang "Old Dan Tucker," + "Jim along Josey," and other ditties of the same class, accompanied by + violin and tambourine. Then Othello played monkey, and gave a series of + recitations. The French cook sang with great spirit and skill. The + entertainments of the evening, as the theatrical bills expressed it, + concluded with Ma Normandie and other beautiful songs and airs well + executed by the French cook, accompanied by Symmes on the violin, and a + landsman on the flute. + </p> + <p> + 5.—Sailed for Cape Palmas, in company with the Porpoise. + </p> + <p> + 9.—Anchored at Cape Palmas. We were boarded by Kroo-men, in eight or + ten canoes. While the thermometer stood at 75 or 80 degrees, these naked + boatmen were shivering, and seemed absolutely to suffer with cold; and + such is the effect of the climate upon our own physical systems, that we + find woollen garments comfortable at the same temperature. + </p> + <p> + Visited and lunched with Governor Rasswurm. Called on Mr. James, a colored + missionary, now occupying the house of Mr. Wilson, who has lately removed + to Gaboon river. Mr. James presented us with some ebony, and a few Grebo + books. He informed us that the fever had visited him more or less + severely, as often as once in four weeks during seven years. This may + truly be called a feverish life! He is about to remove to Gaboon. + </p> + <p> + The Catholic Mission seems to have driven the Presbyterian from the + ground. We called on Mr. Kelly, a Catholic priest from Baltimore, and the + only white man of the Mission at present in Africa. Preparations, however, + have already been made for twenty more, principally French, whose arrival + is expected within a year, and who will establish themselves at different + points along the coast. Mr. Kelly is now finishing a very commodious + house, on a scale of some magnitude, with piazzas around the whole. There + is evidently no lack of money. The funds for the support of the Catholic + mission are derived principally through Lyons, in France; and the + enterprise is said to be under the patronage of the king. The abundant + pecuniary means which the priests have at command, and the imposing and + attractive ceremonies of their mode of worship—so well fitted to + produce an effect on uncultivated natures, where appeals either to the + intellect or the heart would be thrown away—are among the chief + causes of their success. It is said, too, and perhaps with truth, that as + many converts are made, among the natives, by presents, as by persuasion. + But no small degree of the prosperity of the mission must be attributed to + the superior shrewdness and ability of the persons engaged in it—to + their skilful adaptation of their precepts and modes of instruction to the + people with whom they have to deal, and to their employment of the maxims + of worldly policy in aid of their religious views. These qualities and + rules of conduct have characterized the Catholic missionaries in all ages, + in all parts of the world, and in their dealings with every variety of the + human race; and their success has everywhere been commensurate with the + superiority, in a merely temporal point of view, of the system on which + they acted. + </p> + <p> + Before returning on board, we called on King Freeman, who received us, + seated on a chair which was placed in front of his house. His majesty's + royal robe was no other than an old uniform frock, which I had given him + three years ago. We accepted the chairs which he offered us, and held a + palaver, while some twenty of his subjects stood respectfully around. He + remembered my former visit to the colony, and appeared very glad to see me + again. His town was nearly deserted, the people having gone out to gather + rice. About the royal residence, and in the vicinity, I saw thirty or + forty cattle, most of them young, and all remarkably small. It is said, + and I believe it to be a fact, that cattle, and even fowls, when brought + from the interior, take the coast-fever, and often perish with it. Certain + it is that they do not flourish. + </p> + <p> + 11.—King Freeman came on board, dressed in his uniform frock, with + two epaulettes, a redcap, and checked trowsers. He received some powder + and bread from the Commodore, and some trifles from the ward-room. + </p> + <p> + 12.—Joe Davis brought his son on board to "learn sense." In pursuit + of this laudable object, the young man is to make a cruise with us. The + father particularly requested that his son might be flogged, saying, + "Spose you lick him, you gib him sense!" On such a system, a man-of-war is + certainly no bad school of improvement. + </p> + <p> + 13.—A delightful day, clear sky, and cool breeze. We sailed from + Cape Palmas yesterday, steering up the coast. + </p> + <p> + I have been conversing with young Ben Johnson, one of our Kroomen, on the + conjugal and other customs of his countrymen. These constitute quite a + curious object of research. The Kroomen are indispensable in carrying on + the commerce and maritime business of the African coast. When a Kroo-boat + comes alongside, you may buy the canoe, hire the men at a moment's + warning, and retain them in your service for months. They expend no time + nor trouble in providing their equipment, since it consists merely of a + straw hat and a piece of white or colored cotton girded about their loins. + In their canoes, they deposit these girdles in the crowns of their hats; + nor is it unusual, when a shower threatens them on shore, to see them + place this sole garment in the same convenient receptacle, and then make + for shelter. When rowing a boat, or paddling a canoe, it is their custom + to sing; and, as the music goes on, they seem to become invigorated, + applying their strength cheerfully, and with limbs as unwearied as their + voices. One of their number leads in recitative, and the whole company + respond in the chorus. The subject of the song is a recital of the + exploits of the men, their employments, their intended movements, the news + of the coast, and the character of their employers. It is usual, in these + extemporary strains, for the Kroomen attached to a man-of-war to taunt, + with good-humored satire, their friends who are more laboriously employed + in merchant vessels, and not so well fed and paid. + </p> + <p> + Their object in leaving home, and entering into the service of navigators, + is generally to obtain the means of purchasing wives, the number of whom + constitutes a man's importance. The sons of "gentlemen" (for there is such + a distinction of rank among them) never labor at home, but do not hesitate + to go away, for a year or two, and earn something to take to their + families. On the return of these wanderers—not like the prodigal + son, but bringing wealth to their kindred—great rejoicings are + instituted. A bullock is killed by the head of the family, guns are fired, + and two or three days are spent in the performance of various plays and + dances. The "boy" gives all his earnings to his father, and places himself + again under the parental authority. The Krooman of maturer age, on his + return from an expedition of this kind, buys a wife, or perhaps more than + one, and distributes the rest of his accumulated gains among his + relatives. In a week, he has nothing left but his wives and his house. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Age is more respected by the Africans than by any other people. Even if +the son be forty years old, he seldom seeks to emancipate himself from the +paternal government. If a young man falls in love, he, in the first place, +consults his father. The latter makes propositions to the damsel's father, +who, if his daughter agree to the match, announces the terms of purchase. +The price varies in different places, and is also influenced by other +circumstances, such as the respectability and power of the family, and the +beauty and behavior of the girl. The arrangements here described are often +made when the girl is only five or six years of age, in which case she +remains with her friends until womanhood, and then goes to the house of +her bridegroom. + + Meantime, her family receive the stipulated price, and are responsible +for her good behavior. Should she prove faithless, and run away, her +purchase-money must be refunded by her friends, who, in their turn, have a +claim upon the family of him who seduces or harbors her. If prompt +satisfaction be not made (which, however, is generally the case), there +will be a "big palaver," and a much heavier expense for damages and costs. +If, after the commencement of married life, the husband is displeased with +his wife's conduct, he complains to her father, who either takes her back, +and repays the dowry, or more frequently advises that she be flogged. In +the latter alternative, she is tied, starved, and severely beaten; a mode +of conjugal discipline which generally produces the desired effect. +</pre> + <p> + Should the wife be suspected of infidelity, the husband may charge her + with it, and demand that she drink the poisonous decoction of sassy-wood, + which is used as the test of guilt or innocence, in all cases that are + considered too uncertain for human judgment. If her stomach free itself + from the fatal draught by vomiting, she is declared innocent, and is taken + back by her family without repayment of the dower. On the other hand, if + the poison begin to take effect, she is pronounced guilty; an emetic is + administered in the shape of common soap; and her husband may, at his + option, either send her home, or cut off her nose and ears. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +There is one sad discrepancy in the moral system of these people, as +regards the virtue of the women. No disgrace is imputed to the wife who +admits the immoral advances of a white man, provided it be done with the +knowledge and consent of her husband. The latter, in whose eyes the white +man is one of a distinct and superior order of beings, usually considers +himself honored by an affair of this nature, and makes it likewise a +matter of profit. All proposals, in view of such a connection, must pass +through the husband; nor, it is affirmed, is there any hazard of wounding +his delicacy, or awakening his resentment, whatever be his rank and +respectability. The violated wife returns to the domestic roof with +undiminished honor, and confines herself as rigidly within the limits of +her nuptial vow, as if this singular suspension of it had never taken +place. + + In spite of the degradation indicated by the above customs, the +Kroo-women are rather superior to other native females, and seem to occupy +a higher social position. The wife first married holds the purse, directs +the household affairs, and rules the other women, who labor diligently for +the benefit of their common husband and master. Their toil constitutes his +wealth. It is usual for a man to live two, three, or four days, with each +of his wives in turn. As old age advances, he loses the control of his +female household, most of the members of which run away, unless he is wise +enough to dispose of them (as usage permits) to his more youthful +relatives. As a Krooman of sixty or seventy often has wives in their +teens, it is not to be wondered at that they should occasionally show a +disposition to rove. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. + </h2> + <p> + Return to Monrovia—Sail for Porto Praya—The Union Hotel—Reminiscences + of famine at the Cape de Verds—Frolics of Whalemen—Visit to + the island of St. Antonio—A dance—Fertility of the island—A + Yankee clock-maker—A mountain ride—City of Poverson—Point + de Sol—Kindness of the women—The handsome commandant—A + Portuguese dinner. + </p> + <p> + <i>August</i> 14.—Passed near Sinoe, a colonial settlement, but did + not show our colors. An English merchant brig was at anchor. Our pilot + observed, that this settlement was not in a flourishing condition, because + it received no great "<i>resistance</i>" from the Colonization Society. Of + course, he meant to say, "<i>assistance</i>;" but there was an + unintentional philosophy in the remark. Many plants thrive best in + adversity. + </p> + <p> + Anchored at the river Sesters, and sent a boat ashore. Two canoes paddled + alongside, and their head-men came on board. One was a beautifully formed + man, and walked the deck with a picturesque dignity of aspect and motion. + He had more the movement of an Indian, than any negro I ever saw. Two men + were left in each boat, to keep her alongside, and wait the movements of + their master. They kneel in the boat, and sit on their heels. When a + biscuit is thrown to them, they put it on their thighs, and thence eat it + at their leisure. + </p> + <p> + 16.—Ashore at Monrovia. The buildings look dilapidated, and the + wooden walls are in a state of decay. Houses of stone are coming into + vogue. There is a large stone court-house, intended likewise for a + Legislative Hall. What most interested me, was an African pony, a + beautiful animal, snow white, with a head as black as ebony. I also saw + five men chained together, by the neck; three colonists and two natives, + with an overseer superintending them. They had been splitting stone for + Government. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +A gun from the ship gave the signal for our return. Going on board, we got +under way, and sailed for Porto Praya. + + 20.—For four days, we have had much rain; and I have seldom visited the +deck, except when duty called me. Fortunately, Governor Roberts had lent +me the report of the Committee of Parliament, on the Western Coast of +Africa, the perusal of which has afforded me both pleasant and profitable +occupation. It is an excellent work, full of facts, from men who have +spent years on the coast. +</pre> + <p> + 21.—Wind still favorable. The day is sunny, and all are on deck to + enjoy the air. Damp clothes hang in the rigging to-day, and mouldy boots + and shoes fill the boats. + </p> + <p> + 24.—We find ourselves again off the harbor of Porto Praya. I landed + in quest of news, and heard of the death of Mr. Legare, and the loss of + the store-ship, at this port. All hands were saved, but with the sacrifice + of several thousand dollars' worth of property, besides the vessel. + </p> + <p> + On approaching the shore, three flags are observed to be flying in the + town. One is the consular flag of our own nation; another is the banner of + Portugal; and the third, being blue, white, and blue, is apt to puzzle a + stranger, until he reads UNION HOTEL, in letters a foot long. When last at + Porto Praya, a few friends and myself took some slight refreshment at the + hotel, and were charged so exorbitantly, that we forswore all visits to + the house in future. To-day, the keeper stopt me in the street, and begged + the favor of our patronage. On my representing the enormity of his former + conduct, he declared that it was all a mistake; that he was the master of + the hotel, and was unfortunately absent at the time. I was pleased with + this effrontery, having paid the exorbitant charge into his own hands, not + a month before. It is delightful, in these remote, desolate, and + semi-barbarous regions, to meet with characteristics that remind us of a + more polished and civilized land. + </p> + <p> + The streets are hot and deserted, and the town more than ordinarily dull, + as most of the inhabitants are out planting. The court has gone to + Buonavista, on account of the unhealthiness of Porta Praya, at this season + of the year. A few dozen scrubby trees have been planted in the large + square, but, though protected by palings and barrels, have not reached the + height of two feet. In the centre stands a marble monument, possibly + intended for a fountain, but wholly destitute of water. + </p> + <p> + 25.—The boat went ashore again, and brought off the consul, and some + stores. We then made sail, passing to the windward of all the islands, and + reached our former anchorage at Porto Grande. + </p> + <p> + 28.—There are one barque and three brigs, all American whalers, in + the harbor of Porto Grande. They have been out from three to six months, + and are here for water, bad though it be, and fresh provisions. Their + inducements to visit this port, are the goodness of the harbor, and the + smallness of the port charges. No consular fee has been paid until now, + when, an agent being appointed, each vessel pays him a perquisite of four + dollars. + </p> + <p> + This group of islands is chiefly interesting to Americans, as being the + resort of our whale-ships, to refit and obtain supplies, and of other + vessels trading to the coast of Africa. Little was generally known of + them, however, in America, until 1832, when a long-continued drought + parched up the fields, destroyed the crops, and reduced the whole + population to the verge of death, by famine. Not less than ten thousand + did actually perish of hunger; and the remainder were saved only by the + timely, prompt and bountiful supplies, sent out from every part of the + United States. I well remember the thrill of compassion that pervaded the + community at home, on hearing that multitudes were starving in the Cape de + Verd islands. Without pausing to inquire who they were, or whether + entitled to our assistance, by any other than the all-powerful claim of + wretchedness, the Americans sent vessel after vessel, laden with food, + which was gratuitously distributed to the poor. The supplies were liberal + and unremitted, until the rains returned, and gave the usual crops to the + cultivators. + </p> + <p> + Twelve years have passed since that dismal famine; but the memory of the + aid extended by Americans has not yet faded, nor seems likely to fade, + from the minds of those who were succored in their need. I have heard men, + who were then saved from starvation, speak strongly and feelingly on the + subject, with quivering lip and faltering voice. Women, likewise, with + streaming eyes, to this day, invoke blessings on the foreign land that fed + their children, when there was no other earthly help. England, though + nearer, and in more intimate connection with these islands, sent not a + mouthful of food; and Portugal, the mother country, shipped only one or + two small cargoes to be sold; while America fed the starving thousands, + gratuitously, for months. Our consul at Porto Praya, Mr. Gardner, after + making a strong and successful appeal to the sympathies of his own + countrymen, distributed his own stores to the inhabitants, until he was + well-nigh beggared. He enjoys the only reward he sought, in the approval + of his conscience, as well as the gratitude of the community; and America, + too, may claim more true glory from this instance of general benevolence, + pervading the country from one end to the other, than from any victory in + our annals. + </p> + <p> + 29.—Ashore again. An ox for our ship was driven in from the + mountains by three or four horsemen and as many dogs, who chased him till + he took refuge in the water. A boat now put off, and soon overtaking the + tired animal, he was tied securely. When towed ashore, one rope was + fastened round his horns, and another to his fore-foot, each held by a + negro, while a third took a strong gripe of his tail. In this manner, they + led and drove him along, the fellow behind occasionally biting the beast's + tail, to quicken his motions; until at length the poor creature was made + fast to an anchor on the beach, there to await the butcher. + </p> + <p> + There is here a miserable church, but no priest. Passing the edifice + to-day, I saw seven or eight women at their devotions. Instead of + kneeling, they were seated, with their chins resting on their knees, on + the shady side of the church. + </p> + <p> + 30.—The crews of the whale-ships, when ashore, occasionally give no + little trouble to the colonial police. This evening, one of their sailors + came up to us, quite intoxicated, and bleeding from a hurt in his head. He + was bent upon vengeance for his wound, but puzzled how to get it; inasmuch + as a female hand had done the mischief, by cutting his head open with a + bottle. His chivalry would not allow him to strike a woman; nor could he + find any man who would acknowledge himself her relative. In this dilemma, + he was raving through the little village, accompanied by several of his + brother whale-men, mostly drunk, and ready for a row. The Portuguese + officer on duty called out the guard, consisting of two negroes with fixed + bayonets, and caused them to march back and forth in the street. Fifty + paces in the village would bring them to the country; when the detachment + came to the right about, and retraced its steps. These two negroes formed + precisely two-fifths of the regular military force at Porto Grande; but, + besides this formidable host, there are some thirty officers and soldiers + of the National Guard, comprising all the negro population able to bear + clubs. + </p> + <p> + The women here have a peculiar mode of carrying children, when two or + three years old. The child sits astride of the mother's left hip, clinging + with hands and feet, and partially supported by her left arm. The little + personage being in a state of total nudity, and of course very slippery, + this is doubtless the most convenient method that could be adopted. + </p> + <p> + The gait of the women is remarkably free and unembarrassed. With no + constraint of stays or corsets, and often innocent of any covering, the + shoulders have full play, and the arms swing more than I have ever seen + those of men, in our own country. Their robes are neither too abundant, + nor too tight, to prevent the exhibition of a very martial stride. The + scanty clothing worn here is owing partly, but not entirely, to the warmth + of the climate. Another cogent reason is the poverty of the inhabitants; + so, at least, I infer from the continual petitions for clothes, and from + remarks like the following, made to me by a mulatto woman:—"You very + good man, you got plenty clothes, plenty shirt." + </p> + <p> + <i>September</i> 3.—The Cornelia, of New Bedford, came in and + anchored. She has been out fifteen months, and has only 400 barrels of + oil. + </p> + <p> + 4.—Left the ship in the launch on an expedition to the neighboring + island of St. Antonio; being despatched by the Commodore to procure + information as to the facilities for anchoring ships, and obtaining water + and refreshments. Our boat was sloop-rigged, and carried three officers, a + passenger, and ten men. At 11 A.M. we "sheeted home," and stood out of the + harbor with a fair breeze, and all canvass spread: but, within an hour, + the wind freshened to a gale, and compelled us to take in everything but a + close reefed mainsail. The sea being rough, and the weather squally, our + boat took in more water than was either agreeable or safe, until we + somewhat improved matters by constructing a temporary forecastle of + tarpaulins. Finding it impossible, however, to contend against wind and + current, we bore up for an anchorage called Santa Cruz. This was formerly + a notorious haunt for pirates; but no vestige of a settlement remains, + save the ruins of an old stone house, which may probably have been the + theatre of wild and bloody incidents, in by-gone years. The serrated hills + are grey and barren, and the surrounding country shows no verdure. + Anchoring here, we waited several hours for the wind to moderate, and + tried to get such sleep as might perchance be caught in an unsteady boat. + </p> + <p> + By great diligence in working against wind and current, we succeeded in + reaching Genella at 9 o'clock in the evening of the second day. Our + mulatto pilot, Manuel Quatrine, whistled shrilly through his fingers; and, + after a brief delay, the response of a similar whistle reached our ears + from shore. A conversation was sustained for some moments, by means of + shouts to-and-fro in Portuguese; a man then swam off to reconnoitre; and, + on his return, the people launched a canoe and carried us ashore, weary + enough of thirty-six hours' confinement in an open boat. We took up our + quarters in the house of a decent negro, who seemed to be the head man of + the village, and, after eating such a supper as the place could supply, + sallied out to give the women an opportunity of preparing our beds. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the pilot had not been idle. Though a married man, and the + father of six children, he was a gay Lothario, and a great favorite with + the sex; he could sing, dance, and touch the guitar with infinite spirit, + and tolerable skill. Being well known in the village, it is not surprising + that the arrival of so accomplished a personage should have disturbed the + slumbers of the inhabitants. At ten o'clock, a dance was arranged before + the door of one of the huts. The dark-skinned maidens, requiring but + little time to put on their ball-costume, came dropping in, until, before + midnight, there were thirty or forty dancers on foot. The figures were + compounded of the contra-dance and reel, with some remarkable touches of + the Mandingo balance. The music proceeded from one or two guitars, which, + however, were drowned a great part of the time, by the singing of the + girls and the clapping of each individual pair of hands in the whole + party. A calabash of sour wine, munificently bestowed by a spectator, + increased the fun, and it continued to wax higher and more furious, as the + night wore away. Our little pilot was, throughout, the leader of the + frolic, and acquitted himself admirably. His nether garments having + received serious detriment in the voyage, he borrowed a large heavy + pea-jacket, to conceal the rents, and in this garb danced for hours with + the best, in a sultry night. Long before the festivity was over, my + companions and myself stretched ourselves on a wide bag of straw, and fell + asleep, lulled by the screaming of the dancers. + </p> + <p> + The next morning we were early on foot, and looked around us with no small + interest. The village is situated at the point where a valley opens upon + the shore. The sides of this vale are steep, and, in many places, high, + perpendicular, and rocky. Every foot of earth is cultivated; and where the + natural inclination of the hill is too great to admit of tillage, stone + walls are built to sustain terraces, which rise one over another like + giant steps to the mountain-tops. It was the beginning of harvest, and the + little valley presented an appearance of great fertility. Corn, bananas, + figs, guavas, grapes, oranges, sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, and many other + fruits and vegetables, are raised in abundance. The annual vintage in this + and a neighboring valley, appertaining to the same parish, amounts to + about seventy-five pipes of wine. It is sour and unpalatable, not unlike + hard-cider and water. When a cultivator first tries his wine, it is a + custom of the island for him to send notice to all his acquaintances, who + invariably come in great force, each bringing a piece of salt-fish to keep + his thirst alive. Not unfrequently, the whole produce of the season is + exhausted by a single carouse. + </p> + <p> + The people are all negroes and mulattoes. Male and female, they are very + expert swimmers, and are often in the habit of swimming out to sea, with a + basket or notched stick to hold their fish; and thus they angle for hours, + resting motionless on the waves, unless attacked by a shark. In this + latter predicament, they turn upon their backs, and kick and splash until + the sea-monster be frightened away. They appear to be a genial and + pleasant-tempered race. As we walked through the village, they saluted us + with "Blessed be the name of the Lord!" Whether this expression (a + customary courtesy of the islanders) were mere breath, or proceeded out of + the depths of the heart, is not for us to judge; but, at all events, heard + in so wild and romantic a place, it made a forcible impression on my mind. + When we were ready to depart, all the villagers came to the beach, with + whatever commodities they were disposed to offer for sale; a man carrying + a squealing pig upon his shoulders; women with fruits and fowls; girls + with heavy bunches of bananas or bundles of cassada on their heads; and + boys, with perhaps a single egg. Each had something, and all lingered on + the shore until our boat was fairly off. + </p> + <p> + Five or six miles further, we landed at Paolo, where reside several + families who regard themselves as the aristocracy of St. Antonio, on the + score of being connected with Señor Martinez, the great man of these + islands. Their houses are neatly built, and the fields and gardens well + cultivated. They received us hospitably, principally because one of our + party was a connection of the family. I was delighted with an exhibition + of feeling on the part of an old negro servant-woman. She came into the + parlor, sat down at the feet of our companion, embraced his knees, and + looked up in his face with a countenance full of joy, mingled with respect + and confidence. We saw but two ladies at this settlement. One was a matron + with nine children; the other a dark brunette, very graceful and pleasing, + with the blackest eyes and whitest teeth in the world. She wore a shawl + over the right shoulder and under the left arm, arranged in a truly + fascinating manner. + </p> + <p> + The poorer classes in the vicinity are nearly all colored, and mostly + free. They work for eight or ten cents a day, living principally on fruit + and vegetables, and are generally independent, because their few wants are + limited to the supply. The richest persons live principally within + themselves, and derive their meats, vegetables, fruits, wine, brandy, + sugar, coffee, oil, and most other necessaries and luxuries, from their + own plantations. One piece of furniture, however, to be seen in several of + the houses, was evidently not the manufacture of the island, but an export + of Yankee-land. It was the wooden clock, in its shining mahogany case, + adorned with bright red and yellow pictures of Saints and the Virgin, to + suit the taste of good Catholics. It might have been fancied that the + renowned Sam Slick, having glutted all other markets with his wares, had + made a voyage to St. Antonio. Nor did they lack a proper artist to keep + the machine in order. We met here a person whom we at first mistook for a + native, so identical were his manners and appearance with those of the + inhabitants; until, in conversation, we found him to be a Yankee, who had + run away from a whale-ship, and established himself as a clock and + watch-maker. + </p> + <p> + After a good night's rest, another officer and myself left Paolo, early, + for a mountain ride. The little pilot led the way on a donkey; my friend + followed on a mule, and I brought up the rear on horseback. We began to + ascend, winding along the rocky path, one by one, there being no room to + ride two abreast. The road had been cut with much labor, and, in some + places, was hollowed out of the side of the cliff, thus forming a gallery + of barely such height and width as to admit the passage of a single + horseman, and with a low wall of loose stones between the path and the + precipice. At other points, causeways of small stones and earth had been + built up, perhaps twenty feet high, along the top of which ran the path. + On looking at these places from some projecting point, it made us shudder + to think that we had just passed, where the loosening of a single one of + those small stones might have carried us down hundreds of feet, to certain + destruction. The whole of the way was rude and barren. Here and there a + few shrubs grew in the crevices of the rocks, or wild flowers, of an + aspect strange to our eyes, wasted their beauty in solitude; and the small + orchilla weed spread itself moss-like over the face of the cliff. At one + remarkable point, the path ran along the side of the precipice, about + midway of its height. Above, the rock rose frowningly, at least five + hundred feet over our heads. Below, it fell perpendicularly down to the + beach. The roar of the sea did not reach us, at our dizzy height, and the + heavy surf-waves, in which no boat could live, seemed to kiss the shore as + gently as the ripple of a summer-lake. This was the most elevated point of + the road, which thence began to descend; but the downward track was as + steep and far more dangerous. At times, the animals actually slid down + upon their haunches. In other places, they stept from stone to stone, down + steep descents, where the riders were obliged to lie backwards flat upon + the cruppers. + </p> + <p> + Over all these difficulties, our guide urged his donkey gaily and + unconcernedly. As for myself, though I have seen plenty of rough riding, + and am as ready as most men to follow, if not to lead, I thought it no + shame to dismount more than once. The rolling of a stone, or the parting + of stirrup, girth, or crupper, would have involved the safety of one's + neck. Nor did the very common sight of wooden crosses along the path, + indicating sudden death by accident or crime, tend to lessen the sense of + insecurity. The frequent casualties among these precipitous paths, + together with the healthfulness of the climate, have made it a proverb, + that it is a natural death, at St. Antonio, to be dashed to pieces on the + rocks. But such was not our fate. We at length reached the sea-shore, and + rode for a mile along the beach to the city of Poverson, before entering + which metropolis, it was necessary to cross a space of level, sandy + ground, about two hundred yards in extent. Here the little pilot suddenly + stuck his heels into the sides of his donkey, and dashed onward at a + killing pace; while mule and horse followed hard upon his track, to the + great admiration of ragamuffins, who had assembled to witness the entrée + of the distinguished party. + </p> + <p> + Poverson is the capital of the island, and contains about two thousand + inhabitants, who, with few exceptions, are people of color. The streets + are crooked and narrow, and the houses mean. We called upon the military + and civil Governors, and, after accepting an invitation to dine with the + former, left the place for a further expedition. Passing over a shallow + river, in which a number of women and girls were washing clothes, we + ascended a hill so steep as to oblige us to dismount, and from the summit + of which we had a fine view of the rich valley beneath. It is by far the + most extensive tract of cultivated land that we have seen in the island, + and is improved to its utmost capacity. We thence rode three miles over a + path of the same description as before, and arrived at the village and + port of Point-de-Sol. The land about this little town is utterly barren, + and the inhabitants are dependent on Poverson for food, with the exception + of fish. A custom-house, a single store, a church, and some twenty houses + of fishermen, comprise all the notable characteristics of the principal + seaport of the island. + </p> + <p> + It was a part of our duty to make an examination of the harbor, for which + purpose we needed a boat. Two were hauled up on the beach; but the + smallest would have required the power of a dozen men to launch her;—whereas, + the fishermen being absent in their vocation, our party of three, and a + big boy at the store, comprised our whole available masculine strength. + The aid of woman, however, is seldom sought in vain; nor did it fail us + now. Old and young, matron and maid, they all sallied forth to lend a + hand, and, with such laughing and screaming as is apt to attend feminine + efforts, enabled us to launch the boat. In spite of their patois of bad + Portuguese, we contrived to establish a mutual understanding. A fine, tall + girl, with a complexion of deep olive, clear, large eyes, and teeth + beautifully white and even, stood by my side; and, like the Ancient + Mariner and his sister's son, we pulled together. She was strong, and, as + Byron says, "lovely in her strength." This difficulty surmounted, we rowed + round the harbor, made our examination, and returned to the beach, where + we again received the voluntary assistance of the women, in dragging the + boat beyond the reach of the waves. We now adjourned to the store, in + order to requite their kindness by a pecuniary offering. Each of our fair + friends received two large copper coins, together equal to nine cents, and + were perfectly satisfied, as well they might be—for it was the price + of a day's work. Two or three individuals, moreover, "turned double + corners," and were paid twice; and it is my private belief that the tall + beauty received her two coppers three times over. + </p> + <p> + After a lunch of fried plantains and eggs, we rode back to Poverson. On + the way, we met several persons of both sexes with burdens on their heads, + and noticed that our guide frequently accosted them with a request for a + pinch of snuff. With few exceptions, a horn or piece of bone was produced, + containing a fine yellow snuff of home-manufacture, which, instead of + being taken between the thumb and finger, was poured into the palm of the + hand, and thence conveyed to the nose. Arriving at the city, we proceeded + at once to the house of the Commandant, and in a little time were seated + at dinner. + </p> + <p> + Our host was fitted by nature to adorn a far more brilliant position than + that which he occupied, as the petty commander of a few colored soldiers, + in a little island of the torrid zone. He was slightly made, but perfectly + proportioned, with a face of rare beauty, and an expression at once noble + and pleasing. His eyes were large, and full of a dark light; his black + hair and moustache were trimmed with a care that showed him not insensible + of his personal advantages; as did likewise his braided jacket, fitting so + closely as to set off his fine figure to the best effect. His manners were + in a high degree polished and graceful. One of the guests, whom he had + invited to meet us, understood English; and the conversation was sustained + in that language, and in Spanish. The dinner was cooked and served in the + Portuguese style; it went off very pleasantly, and was quite as good as + could be expected at the house of a bachelor, in a place so seldom visited + by strangers. Each of the Portuguese gentlemen gave a sentiment, prefaced + by a short complimentary speech; and our party, of course, reciprocated in + little speeches of the same nature. The Commandant did not fail to express + the gratitude due from the people of the Cape de Verd islands to America, + for assistance in the hour of need. Time did not permit us to remain long + at table, and we took leave, highly delighted with our entertainment. + </p> + <p> + Mounting again, we rode out of town more quietly than we had entered it. A + sergeant was drilling some twenty negro soldiers in marching and wheeling. + His orders were given in a quick, loud tone, and enforced by the + occasional application of smart blows of a rattan to the shoulders of his + men. Suspecting that the blows fell thicker because we were witnesses of + his discipline, it seemed a point of humanity to hasten forward; + especially as the approach of night threatened to make our journey still + more perilous than before. After riding about three miles, we met two + well-dressed mulatto women on donkeys, accompanied by their cavaliers. Of + course, we allowed the ladies to pass between us and the rock; a matter of + no slight courtesy in such a position, where there was a very + uncomfortable hazard of being jostled headlong down the precipice. We + escaped, however, and spurring onward through the gloom of night, passed + unconsciously over several rough spots where we had dismounted in the + morning. The last mile of our mountain-ride was lighted by the moon; and, + as we descended the last hill, the guide gave a shrill whistle, to which + the boat's crew responded with three cheers for our return. + </p> + <p> + A good night's rest relieved us of our fatigue. The following morning, + with a fair breeze and a six hours' sail, we reached our floating-home, + and have ever since entertained the mess-table with the "yarn" of our + adventures; until now the subject is beginning to be worn thread-bare. + But, as the interior of the island of St. Antonio is one of the few + regions of the earth as yet uncelebrated by voyagers and tourists, I + cannot find in my heart to spare the reader a single sentence of the + foregoing narrative. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. + </h2> + <p> + Arrival of the Macedonian—Return to the Coast of Africa—Emigrants + to Liberia—Tornadoes—Maryland in Liberia—Nature of its + Government—Perils of the Bar—Mr. Russwurm—The Grebo + Tribe—Manner of disposing of their Dead. + </p> + <p> + <i>September</i> 9.—Weighed anchor, and stood out to sea. At 8 + o'clock A.M., made the frigate Macedonian. She saluted the broad pennant, + and both ships bore up for Porto Grande, where we anchored, and read the + news from home. + </p> + <p> + 11.—The Commodore left the ship, and hoisted his broad pennant on + board the Macedonian. + </p> + <p> + 16.—Sailed at 6 o'clock P.M., for Porto Praya. + </p> + <p> + 17.—Anchored at Porto Praya, where we find the Decatur, which + arrived yesterday, after a passage of forty-five days from Norfolk. + </p> + <p> + 22.—Sailed in the evening for the coast. + </p> + <p> + <i>October</i> 7.—Off Cape Mount. + </p> + <p> + 8.—Ashore at Monrovia. It being Sunday, we attended the Methodist + Church. Mr. Teage, editor of the Liberia Herald, preached an appropriate + and well-written discourse, on occasion of admitting three men and a woman + to church-membership. One of the males was a white, who had married a + colored woman in America, and came out to the colony with Mr. McDonough's + people, some time ago. His wife being dead, he has married another woman + of color, and is determined to live and die here. + </p> + <p> + 10.—Dined with the Governor. Visited the house of a poor colonist, a + woman with two children and no husband. She endeavors to support her + family by washing. Two or three, other women of the neighborhood dropped + in. It is said that the proportion of female emigrants to males is as + three and a half to one. Unless it be expected that these women are to + work in the fields, it is difficult to imagine how they are to earn a + subsistence. A little chance washing and sewing, not enough to employ one + in ten, is all they have to depend upon. The consequence is, that every + person, of even moderate means of living, has two or three women to feed + and clothe. They do not need their services, but cannot let them starve. + This is one of the drawbacks upon Colonization. + </p> + <p> + Even the able-bodied men are generally unfit for promoting the prosperity + of the colony. A very large proportion of them are slaves, just liberated. + Accustomed to be ruled and taken care of by others, they are no better + than mere children, as respects the conduct and economy of life. In + America, their clothes, food, medicines, and all other necessaries, have + been furnished without a thought on their own part; and when sent to + Liberia, with high notions of freedom and exemption from labor (ideas + which with many are synonymous), they prove totally inadequate to sustain + themselves. I perceive, in Colonization reports, that the owners of slaves + frequently offer to liberate them, on condition of their being sent to + Liberia; and that the Society has contracted debts, and embarrassed itself + in various ways, rather than let such offers pass. In my opinion, many of + the slaves, thus offered, are of little value to the donors, and of even + less to the cause of Colonization. Better to discriminate carefully in the + selection of emigrants, than to send out such numbers of the least + eligible class, to become burdens upon the industrious and intelligent, + who might otherwise enjoy comfort and independence. Many a colonist, at + this moment, sacrifices his interest to his humanity, and feels himself + kept back in life by the urgent claims of compassion. + </p> + <p> + The Society allows to new emigrants provisions for six months. After that + period, if unable to take care of themselves, they must either starve, or + be supported by the charitable. Fifty young or middle-aged men, who had + been accustomed to self-guidance in America, would do more to promote the + prosperity of the colony, than five hundred such emigrants as are usually + sent out. The thievish propensity of many of the poor and indolent + colonists is much complained of by the industrious. On this account, more + than any other, it is difficult to raise stock. The vice has been acquired + in America, and is not forgotten in Africa. + </p> + <p> + 13.—A rainy morning. Last night we were all roused from sleep by the + sea coming into the starboard air-ports. We of the larboard side laughed + at the misfortune of our comrades, and closed our own ports, without + taking the precaution to screw them in. Half an hour afterwards, a very + heavy swell assailed us on the larboard, beat in all the loose ports, and + deluged the rooms. I found myself suddenly awakened and cooled by a + cataract of water pouring over me. Out jumped the larboard sleepers, in + dripping night-gear, and shouted lustily for lights, buckets, and swabs; + while the starboard gentlemen laughed long and loud, in their turn. + </p> + <p> + 14.—Sailed for the leeward. + </p> + <p> + 17.—Beautiful weather. This afternoon all hands were called to + shorten sail, in those earnest, startling tones, which are prompted by the + sense of danger alone. Every man sprang to his station with the + instinctive readiness of disciplined seamen. The idlers were all on deck, + and looked about for the cause. Had a man fallen overboard? No! Nor was + there any particular appearance of a squall. But the earnest gaze of the + commander and a passenger, towards the shore, drew all eyes in the same + direction; and, behold! a smoke was seen rising from the land, which had + been mistaken for the cloud that precedes the tornado. It is necessary to + prepare for many blows that do not come. In the tornado-seasons (which may + be estimated at four or five weeks, about the months of March and + November), there are frequent appearances of squalls, sometimes as often + as twice or thrice in twenty-four hours. The horizon grows black, with + very much the aspect of a thunder-shower in America. Generally, the + violence of the wind does not equal the apprehensions always entertained. + We could have carried royals through nineteen out of twenty of the + tornadoes that assailed our ship; but the twentieth might have taken the + sticks out of us. The harmless, as well as the heavy tornadoes, have the + same black and threatening aspect. They usually blow from the land, + although once, while at anchor, we experienced one from seaward. + </p> + <p> + 19.—Anchored at Cape Palmas. This colony is independent, of Liberia + proper, and is under the jurisdiction and patronage of the Maryland State + Colonization Society. Its title is Maryland in Liberia. The local + government is composed of an agent and an assistant agent, both to be + appointed by the Society at home, for two years; a secretary, to be + appointed by the agent annually; and a vice-agent, two counsellors, a + register, a sheriff, a treasurer, and a committee on new emigrants, to be + chosen by the people. Several minor officers are appointed by the agent, + who is entrusted with great powers. The judiciary consists of the agent, + and a competent number of justices of the peace, who are appointed by him, + and two of whom, together with the agent, constitute the Supreme Court. A + single justice has jurisdiction in small criminal cases, and in all civil + cases where the claim does not exceed twenty dollars. + </p> + <p> + Male colored people, at twenty years of age, are entitled to vote, if they + hold land in their own right, or pay a tax of one dollar. Every emigrant + must sign a pledge to support the constitution, and to refrain from the + use of ardent spirits, except in case of sickness. By a provision of the + constitution, emigration is never to be prohibited. + </p> + <p> + Our boat attempted to land at some rocks, just outside of the port, in + order to avoid crossing the bar; but as the tide was low, and the surf + troublesome, we found it impracticable. I hate a bar; there is no fair + play about it. The long rollers come in from the sea, and, in consequence + of the shallowness of the water, seem to pile themselves up so as + inevitably to overwhelm you, unless you have skilful rowers, a good + helmsman, and a lively boat. At one moment, your keel, perhaps, touches + the sand; the next, you are lifted upon a wave and borne swiftly along for + many yards, while the men lie on their oars, or only pull an occasional + stroke, to keep the boat's head right. Now they give way with a will, to + escape a white-crested wave that comes trembling and roaring after them; + and now again they cease rowing, or back water, awaiting a favorable + moment to cross. Should you get into a trough of the sea, you stand a very + pretty chance to be swamped, and have your boat rolled over and over upon + its crew; while, perchance, a hungry shark may help himself to a leg or + arm. + </p> + <p> + Pulling across this ugly barrier, we landed at the only wharf of which the + colony can boast. There is here a stone warehouse, but of no great size. + In front of it lay a large log, some thirty feet long, on which twelve or + fourteen full grown natives were roosting, precisely like turkeys on a + pole. They are accustomed to sit for hours together in this position, + resting upon their heels. A girl presented us with a note, informing all + whom it might concern, that Mrs. —— would do our washing; but, + as the ship's stay was to be short, we turned our attention to the cattle, + of which a score or two were feeding in the vicinity. They are small, but, + having been acclimated, are sleek and well-conditioned. As I have before + observed, it is a well-established fact, that all four-footed emigrants + are not less subject to the coast fever than bipeds. Horses, cattle, and + even fowls, whether imported or brought from the interior to the coast, + speedily sicken, and often die. + </p> + <p> + I dined with Mr. Russwurm, the colonial agent, a man of distinguished + ability and of collegiate education. He gave me, some monkey-skins and + other curiosities, and favored me with much information respecting the + establishment. The mean temperature of the place is eighty degrees of + Fahrenheit, which is something less than that of Monrovia, on account of + its being more open to the sea. The colony comprises six hundred and fifty + inhabitants, all of whom dwell within four miles of the Cape. Besides the + settlement of Harper, situated on the Cape itself, there is that of Mount + Tubman (named in honor of Mr. T. of Georgia), which lies beyond Mount + Vaughan, and three and a half miles from Cape Palmas. There is no road to + the interior of the country, except a native path. The agent, with a party + of twenty, recently penetrated about seventy miles into the Bush, passing + through two tribes, and coming to a third, of large numbers and strength. + The king of the latter tribe has a large town, where many manufactures are + carried on, such as iron implements and wooden furniture of various kinds. + He refused Mr. Russwurm an escort, alleging that there was war, but sent + his son to the coast, to see the <i>black-white</i> people and their + improvements. + </p> + <p> + A large native tribe, the Grebo, dwells at Cape Palmas in the midst of the + colonists. Their conical huts, to the number of some hundreds, present the + most interesting part of the scene. Opposite the town, upon an uninhabited + island at no great distance, the dead are exposed, clad in their best + apparel, and furnished with food, cloth, crockery, and other articles. A + canoe is placed over the body. This island of the dead is called by a + name, which, in the plainest of English, signifies "Go-to-Hell;" a + circumstance that seems to imply very gloomy anticipations as to the fate + of their deceased brethren, on the part of these poor Grebos. As a badge + of mourning, they wear cloth of dark blue, instead of gayer colors. Dark + blue is universally, along the coast, the hue indicative of mourning. + </p> + <p> + The Fishmen, at Cape Palmas, as well as at most other places on the coast, + refuse to sell fish to be eaten on board of vessels, believing that the + remains of the dead fish will frighten away the living ones. + </p> + <p> + 21.—Sailed at 5 o'clock A.M., with a good wind, and anchored at + Sinoe at 6 P.M. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. + </h2> + <p> + Settlement of Sinoe—Account of a murder by the natives—Arrival + at Monrovia—Appearance of the town—Temperance—Law-suits + and Pleadings—Expedition up the St. Paul's river—Remarks on + the cultivation of sugar—Prospects of the coffee-culture in Liberia—Desultory + observations on agriculture. + </p> + <p> + <i>October</i> 22.—At Sinoe. Mr. Morris, the principal man of the + settlement, came on board, in order to take passage with us to Monrovia. + He informs us that there are but seventy-two colonists here at present, + but that nearly a hundred are daily expected. Such an accession of + strength is much needed for the natives in the vicinity are powerful, and + not very friendly, and the colony is too weak to chastise them. Our + appearance has caused them some alarm. This is the place where the mate of + an American vessel was harpooned, some months since, by the Fishmen. We + shall hold a palaver about it, when the Commodore joins us. + </p> + <p> + We left Sinoe at 7 o'clock, P.M. + </p> + <p> + 23. Mr. Morris has been narrating the circumstances of the murder of the + American mate, at Sinoe, in reference to which we are to "set a palaver." + "Palaver," by-the-by, is probably a corruption of the Portuguese word, + "Palabra." As used by the natives, it has many significations, among which + is that of an open quarrel. To "set a palaver," is to bring it to a final + issue, either by talking or fighting. + </p> + <p> + The story of the murder is as follows. A Fishman agreed to go down the + coast with Captain Burke, who paid him his wages in advance; on receiving + which, the fellow jumped overboard, and escaped. The captain then refused + to pay the sums due to two members of the same tribe, unless the first + should refund the money. Finding the threat insufficient, he endeavored to + entice these two natives on board his vessel, by promises of payment, but + ineffectually. Meanwhile, the mate going ashore with a colonist, his boat + was detained by the natives, during the night, but given up the next + morning, at the intercession of the inhabitants. The mate returned on + board, in a violent rage, and sent a sailor to catch a Fishman, on whom to + take vengeance. But the man caught a Tartar, and was himself taken ashore + as prisoner. The mate and cook then went out in a boat, and were attacked + by a war-canoe, the men in which harpooned the cook, and stripping the + mate naked, threw him overboard. They beat the poor fellow off, as he + attempted to seize hold of the canoe, and, after torturing him for some + time, at length harpooned him in the back. Captain Burke, having but one + man and two passengers left, made sail, and got away as fast as possible. + </p> + <p> + 23.—Arrived at Monrovia, where we find the Porpoise, with six native + prisoners on board, who were taken at Berebee, as being concerned in the + murder of Captain Farwell and his crew, two years ago. To accomplish their + capture, the Porpoise was disguised as a barque, with only four or five + men visible on deck, and these in Scotch caps and red shirts, so as to + resemble the crew of a merchant-vessel. The first canoe approached, and + Prince Jumbo stepped boldly up the brig's side, but started back into his + boat, the moment that he saw the guns and martial equipment on deck. The + Kroomen of the Porpoise, however, jumped into the water and upset the + canoe, making prisoners of the four natives whom it contained. Six or + eight miles further along the coast, the brig being under sail, another + canoe came off with two natives, who were likewise secured. The Kroomen + begged to be allowed to kill the prisoners, as they were of a hostile + tribe. + </p> + <p> + 28.—Leaving the ship in one of our boats, pulled by Kroomen, we + crossed the bar at the mouth of the Mesurado, and in ten minutes + afterwards, were alongside of the colonial wharf. Half-a-dozen young + natives and colonists issued from a small house to watch our landing; but + their curiosity was less intrusive and annoying, than would have been that + of the same number of New-York boys, at the landing of a foreign + man-of-war's boat. On our part, we looked around us with the interest + which even common-place objects possess for those, whose daily spectacle + is nothing more varied than the sea and sky. Even the most ordinary + shore-scenery becomes captivating, after a week or two on shipboard. Two + colonists were sawing plank in the shade of the large stone store-house of + the colony. Ascending the hill, we passed the printing-office of the + Liberia Herald, where two workmen were printing the colonial laws. The + publication of the newspaper had been suspended for nearly three months, + to enable them to accomplish work of more pressing importance. Proceeding + onward, we came to the Governor's house, and were received with that + gentleman's usual courtesy. The house is well furnished, and arranged for + a hot climate; it is situated near the highest point of the principal + street, and commands from its piazza a view of most of the edifices in + Monrovia town. + </p> + <p> + The fort is on the highest ground in the village, one hundred feet above + the sea; it is of stone, triangular in shape, and has a good deal the + appearance of an American pound for cattle, but is substantial, and + adequate for its intended purposes. From this point, the street descends + in both directions. About fifty houses are in view. First, the Government + House, opposite to which stand the neat dwellings of Judge Benedict and + Doctor Day. Further on, you perceive the largest house in the village, + erected by Rev. Mr. Williams, of the Methodist mission. On the right is a + one-story brick house, and two or three wooden ones. A large stone + edifice, intended for a Court-House and Legislative Hall, has recently + been completed. The street itself is wide enough for a spacious pasture, + and affords abundance of luxuriant grass, through which run two or three + well-trodden foot-paths. Apart from the village, on the Cape, we discerned + the light-house, the base of which is about two hundred feet above the + sea. + </p> + <p> + We dined to-day at the New Hotel. The dinner was ill-cooked (an + unpardonable fault at Monrovia, where good cooks, formerly in the service + of our southern planters, might be supposed to abound), and not served up + in proper style. But there was abundance to eat and drink. Though the + keeper of the house is a clergyman and a temperance-man, ale, porter, + wine, and cherry-brandy, are to be had at fair prices. Three years ago, a + tavern was kept here in Monrovia by a Mr. Cooper, whose handbill set + forth, that "nothing was more repugnant to his feelings than to sell + ardent spirits"—but added—"if gentlemen <i>will</i> have them, + the following is the price." Of course, after such a salvo, Mr. Cooper + pocketed the profits of his liquor-trade with a quiet conscience. He used + to tell me that a little brandy was good for the "suggestion;" but I fear + that he made, in his own person, too large a demand upon its suggestive + properties; for his house is now untenanted and ruinous, and he himself + has carried his tender conscience to another settlement. + </p> + <p> + 30.—Went ashore in the second cutter. The Kroomen managed her so + bunglingly, that, on striking the beach, she swung broadside to the sea. + In this position, a wave rolled into her, half-filled the boat, and + drenched us from head to foot. Apprehending that she would roll over upon + us, and break our limbs or backs, we jumped into the water, and waded + ashore. + </p> + <p> + While in the village, I visited the Court House, to hear the trial of a + cause involving an amount of eight hundred dollars. Governor Roberts acted + as judge, and displayed a great deal of dignity in presiding, and much + wisdom and good sense in his decision. This is the highest court of the + Colony. There are no regularly educated lawyers in Liberia, devoting + themselves exclusively to the profession; but the pleading seems to be + done principally by the medical faculty. Two Doctors were of counsel in + the case alluded to, and talked of Coke, Blackstone, and Kent, as + learnedly as if it had been the business of their lives to unravel legal + mysteries. The pleadings were simple, and the arguments brief, for the + judge kept them strictly to the point. An action for slander was + afterwards tried, in which the damages were laid at one hundred dollars. + One of the medico-jurisconsults opened the cause with an appeal to the + feelings, and wrought his own sensibilities to such a pitch as to declare, + that, though his client asked only for one hundred dollars, he considered + the jury bound in conscience to give him two. The Doctor afterwards told + me that he had walked eighty miles to act as counsel in this court. A + tailor argued stoutly for the defendant, but with little success; his + client was fined twenty dollars. + </p> + <p> + On our return, a companion and myself took passage for the ship in a + native canoe. These little vessels are scooped out of a log, and are of + even less size and capacity than the birch-canoes of our Indians, and so + light that two men, using each a single hand, may easily carry them from + place to place. Our weight caused the frail bark to sit so deep in the + water, that, before reaching the ship, we underwent another drenching. + Three changes of linen in one day are altogether too expensive and + troublesome. + </p> + <p> + <i>November</i> 1.—Went up the St. Paul's river on a pleasure + excursion, with the Governor, and several men of lesser note. We touched + at the public farm, and found only a single man in charge. The sugar-cane + was small in size, was ill-weeded, and, to my eye, did not appear + flourishing. The land is apparently good and suitable, but labor is + deficient, and my impressions were not favorable in regard to the manner + of cultivation. The mill was exposed to the atmosphere, and the kettles + were full of foul water. We landed likewise at New Georgia, a settlement + of recaptured Africans. There was here a pretty good appearance, both of + people and farms. We called also at Caldwell, a rich tract of level land, + of which a space of about two miles is cultivated by comfortable and + happy-looking colonists. A very pleasant dinner was furnished by the + Governor at what was once a great slave station, and the proprietor of + which is still hostile to the colonists, and to both English and + Americans, for breaking up the trade. We saw several alligators. One of + them, about three feet in length, lay on a log, with his mouth wide open, + catching flies. + </p> + <p> + From the whole course of my observation, I cannot but feel satisfied that + the colonists are better off here than in America. They are more + independent, as healthy, and much happier. Agriculture will doubtless be + their chief employment, but, for years to come, the cultivation of sugar + cane cannot be carried to any considerable extent. There are many calls + upon the resources of the Colonization Society and the inhabitants, more + pressing, and which promise a readier and greater return. A large capital + should be invested in the business, in order to render it profitable. The + want of a steam-mill, to grind the cane, has been severely felt. Ignorance + of the most appropriate soil, and of the most productive kind of cane, and + the best methods of planting and grinding it, have likewise contributed to + retard the cultivation of sugar. But the grand difficulty is the want of a + ready capital, and the high price of labor. The present wages of labor are + from sixty to seventy-five cents per day. The natives refuse to work among + the canes, on account of the prickly nature of the leaves, and the + irritating property of a gum that exudes from them. Yet it may be doubted + whether the colony will ever make sugar to any important extent, unless + some method be found to apply native labor to that purpose. Private + enterprise is no more successful than the public efforts. A plantation has + been commenced at Millsburg, and prosecuted with great diligence, but with + no auspicious results. Sugar has been made, indeed, but at a cost of three + times as much, per pound, as would have purchased it. + </p> + <p> + Hitherto, the plantations of Coffee trees have not succeeded well. Coffee, + it is true, is sometimes exported from Liberia; and doubtless the friends + of Colonization drink it with great gusto, as an earnest of the progress + of their philanthropic work. The cup, however, will be less grateful to + their taste, when they learn that nearly all this coffee is procured at + the islands of St. Thomas and St. Prince's, in the Bight of Benin, and + entered as the produce of Liberia, <i>ad captandum</i>. The same game has + been played in England, by entering their coffee as from Sierra Leone or + Gambia, to entitle it to the benefit of the lower duties on colonial + produce. But the English custom-house officers are now aware of the + deception, and the business is abandoned. + </p> + <p> + The mode of forming a coffee-plantation is simply to go into the woods + (where the tree abounds), select the wild coffee tree, and transport it + into the prepared field. The indigenous coffee-tree of Liberia produces + fruit of a superior quality, larger and finer flavored, than that of the + West Indies. But the cultivation, I think, is conducted upon wrong + principles. Instead of having large plantations, with no other vegetables + on the land, let every man intermingle a few coffee trees with the corn, + cassada, and other vegetables in his garden or fields. These few trees, + having the benefit of the hoeing and manuring bestowed on the other crops, + will produce much more abundantly and with less trouble, than by separate + culture. In fact, after setting out the trees, there will be no trouble, + except that of gathering and preparing the berries for market. In this + burning climate, the shade afforded by the tree will be beneficial to most + vegetables. + </p> + <p> + The want of success, hitherto, in the cultivation of coffee, has been + attributed by some to the custom of transplanting the trees from the + forest, instead of raising them from seed. The colonial Secretary is now + making trial of the latter method. He has several thousand young trees in + his nursery, and will soon be able to test the comparative efficiency of + the different systems. Not improbably, the cultivation of seedlings may be + found preferable to that of transplanted trees; but, in my opinion, the + great obstacle to success has been the deficiency of care and proper + manuring. In order to bear well, trees require to have the ground + enriched, and kept free from weeds. Failing this, the plant often dies, + and never flourishes so well as in its native woods. The inhabitants of + Liberia have not the means of bestowing the requisite care upon the + cultivation of coffee, on an extended scale; and I say boldly, that large + plantations, in that region, cannot compete with those of Brazil and the + West Indies, where the plantations are well-stocked, and cultivated by + slave-labor. Free labor in Africa will not soon be so cheap as that of + slaves in other countries. Even in Cuba, the planters can barely feed + themselves and their slaves, by the culture of coffee. How, then, can it + be made profitable in Liberia, where labor commands so high a price, and + is often impossible to be procured? + </p> + <p> + As incidental, however, to other branches of agriculture, coffee may be + advantageously raised. The best trees are those seen in gardens, where, + from ten or twelve, more berries are gathered than from hundreds in a + plantation. A single tree, in the garden of Colonel Hicks, is said to have + produced sixteen pounds at a gathering; and I have seen several very fine + trees in similar situations. Fifty or a hundred trees, well selected, and + properly distributed through the fields, would yield several hundred + pounds of coffee, which, being gathered and dried by the women and + children, would be gratuitous as regards the cost of labor. Thus, the + coffee culture, in Liberia, must be considered far more eligible than that + of sugar; inasmuch as the latter requires a large capital and extensive + operations, while the former succeeds best on a very moderate scale. + </p> + <p> + Judge Benedict has probably bestowed more attention on this business, than + any other person in Liberia. He is a man of excellent sense and + information, and has the means to carry out his views, as well as the + patriotism to exert himself for the advantage of the commonwealth. With + these qualifications, he has employed five or six years in the experiment + of raising coffee, and thus far, with little success, although his + plantation comprises some thousands of growing trees. In the spring of + 1841, he made presents, to myself and other officers, of genuine Liberian + coffee, in small native bags, containing two or three pounds each. The + Judge is still giving away little bags of the same kind; but I do not yet + learn that his crop is more than sufficient for his own use, and for + distribution as specimens; certainly, it is not so abundant as to render + the sale of it an object. As for the plantation itself, I must confess + that it appeared to me more flourishing three years ago, than at present. + Most of the trees, on the spot originally planted, are dead, and the rest + in a sickly condition; while the most thriving trees are to be seen on the + lower and damper land adjacent, which, at my former visit, was covered + with a dense forest. Beyond a doubt, the coffee tree is as well adapted to + this soil and climate as to those of Cuba, and produces a larger and + better flavored berry; but I repeat my opinion, that the Liberian, hiring + laborers at sixty cents a day, cannot compete with the West Indian, who + has his hundreds of slaves already paid for, and his trees growing in + well-weeded land. The mere feeding, I might almost say, of a dozen + laborers in Liberia, will cost more than all the coffee they raise would + re-imburse, at the Cuba prices. + </p> + <p> + The cultivation of rice is universal in Africa. The natives never neglect + it, for fear of famine. For an upland crop, the rice-lands are turned over + and planted in March and April. In September and October, the rice is + reaped, beaten out, and cleaned for market or storing. The lowland crop, + on the contrary, is planted in September, October, and November, in marshy + lands, and harvested in March and April. Lands will not produce two + successive crops without manuring and ploughing. About two bushels of seed + are sown to the acre; and the crop, on the acre of upland, is about thirty + bushels, and from forty to forty-five bushels on the lowlands. The rice is + transported to market on the backs of natives, packed in bundles of about + three feet long and nine inches in diameter. The wrappers are made of + large leaves, bound together by cords of bark. The load is sustained by + shoulder-straps, and by a band, passing round the forehead of the bearer. + </p> + <p> + Cassada is a kind of yam, and sends up a tall stalk, with light green + leaves. It has a long root, looking like a piece of wood with the brown + bark on; the interior is white and mealy, rather insipid, but nutritious, + and invaluable as an article of food. It is raised from the seed, root, or + stem; the latter being considered preferable. Its yield is very great. In + six months, it is fit to dig, and may be preserved fifteen or eighteen + months in the ground, but ceases to be eatable in three or four days after + being dug. Tapioca is manufactured from this root. + </p> + <p> + Indian corn is planted in May and harvested in September; or, if planted + in July, it ripens in November and December. Sweet potatoes constitute one + of the main reliances of the colonists; they are raised from seeds, roots + or vines, but most successfully from the latter. The season of planting is + in May, or June, and the crop ripens four months later. Plantains and + bananas are a valuable product; they are propagated from suckers, which + yield a first crop in about a year. The top is cut down, and new stalks + spring from the root. Ground nuts are the same article peddled by the old + women at our street-corners, under the name of pea-nuts; so called from + the close resemblance of the bush to the tops of the sweet pea. This nut + is used in England for making oil. The Cocoa is a bulbous root of the size + of a tea-cup, and has some similarity to the artichoke. Pine-apples, + small, but finely flavored, grow wild in the woods, and are abundant in + their season. + </p> + <p> + In concluding these very imperfect and miscellaneous observations on the + agriculture and products of Liberia, it may be remarked that the farmer's + life and modes of labor are different from those of the same class, in + other countries; inasmuch as there is here no spring, autumn, or winter. + The year is a perpetual summer; therein, if in nothing else, resembling + the climate of the original Paradise, to which men of all colors look back + as the birth-place of their species. The culture of the soil appears to be + emphatically the proper occupation of the Liberians. Many persons have + anticipated making money more easily by trade; but, being unaccustomed to + commercial pursuits, and possessing but little capital, by far the greater + number soon find themselves bankrupt, and burthened with debt. With these + evidences of the inequality, on their part, of competition with vessels + trading on the coast, and with the established traders of the colony, the + inhabitants are now turning their attention more exclusively to + agriculture. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. + </h2> + <p> + High character of Governor Roberts—Suspected Slaver—Dinner on + shore—Facts and remarks relative to the slave trade—British + philanthropy—Original cost of a slave—Anchor at Sinoe—Peculiarities + and distinctive characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen—The King + of Appollonia—Religion and morality among the natives—Influence + of the women. + </p> + <p> + <i>November</i> 3.—Ashore, botanizing. In this region, where all the + plants are strange, and many of them beautiful, it is easy work to form a + collection. With a Kroo-boy to carry my book, I cut leaves and flowers as + they came to hand. + </p> + <p> + 4.—Governor Roberts, General Lewis, and Doctor Day, dined with us in + the ward-room. The Governor is certainly no ordinary person. In every + situation, as judge, ruler, and private gentleman, he sustains himself + creditably, and is always unexceptionable. His deportment is dignified, + quiet, and sensible. He has been tried in war as well as in peace, has + seen a good share of fighting, and has invariably been cool, brave, and + successful. He is a native of Virginia, and came from thence in 1828. The + friends of Colonization can hardly adduce a stronger argument in favor of + their enterprise, than that it has redeemed such a man as Governor Roberts + from servitude, and afforded him the opportunity (which was all he needed) + of displaying his high natural gifts, and applying them to the benefit of + his race. + </p> + <p> + To-night we had a Kroo-dance on the forecastle. It was an uncouth and + peculiar spectacle, characterized by singing, stamping, and clapping of + hands, with a great display of agility. National dances might be taken as + no bad standard of the comparative civilisation of different countries. A + gracefully quiet dance is the latest flower of high refinement. + </p> + <p> + 5.—Two vessels descried standing in; and bets were five to one that + they were the Macedonian and Decatur. It proved otherwise; they were a + British gun-brig and French merchant-schooner. + </p> + <p> + 8.—It has been raining for three days, almost incessantly. No + Macedonian yet. + </p> + <p> + 10.—Dined on shore. Our captain and five officers, the master and + surgeon of an English merchantman, and the captain of the French schooner, + were of the party. It was a pleasant dinner. The conversation turned + principally upon the trade and customs of the coast. The slave-trade was + freely discussed; and the subject had a peculiar interest, under the + circumstances, because this identical Frenchman, at table with us, is + suspected to have some connection with it. It is merely a surmise. The + French captain speaks a little English; but, after dinner, as a matter of + courtesy, we all adopted his native language. Our friend Colonel Hicks, as + usual, did most of the talking; he is as shrewd, agreeable, and + instructive a companion, as may often be met with in any society. + </p> + <p> + The dinner-conversation, above alluded to, suggests some remarks in + reference to the slave-trade. There is great discrepancy in the various + estimates as to the number of slaves annually exported from Africa. Some + authorities rate it as high as half a million. Captain Bosanquet, R.N., + estimates that fifteen thousand are annually sent to the West Indies, and + a greater number to Arabia, all of which are from Portuguese settlements. + He affirms that the trade has increased very much between the years 1832 + and 1839, and particularly in the latter part of that period; an effect + naturally consequent upon the great number of captures made by the English + cruisers. A trader, for instance, contracting to introduce a given number + of slaves into Cuba, must purchase more on the coast to make up for those + lost by capture. Captain Brodhead, another British officer, says that the + number of slaves carried off is grossly exaggerated, and that the English + papers told of thousands being shipped from a port, where he lay at anchor + during the period indicated, and for fifty days before and afterwards; in + all which time, not a slave vessel came in sight. Doctor Madden states, + that, during his residence in Cuba, the number of slaves annually imported + was twenty-five thousand. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton calls it one hundred + and fifteen thousand! Her Majesty's Commissioners say that the number is + as well known as any other statistical point, and that it does not exceed + fifteen thousand. The slave-trade rose to a great height in 1836, owing + principally to the high price of colonial produce. I was in Cuba in that + year, and witnessed the great activity that prevailed in buying negroes, + and forming plantations, especially those of sugar. The prices have since + fallen, and the slave-trade decreased, on the plain principle of political + economy, that the demand regulates the supply. + </p> + <p> + The English cruisers are doubtless very active in the pursuit of vessels + engaged in this traffic. The approbation of government and the public (to + say nothing of £5 head-money for every slave recaptured, and the increased + chance of promotion to vacancies caused by death) is a strong inducement + to vigilance. But, however benevolent may be the motives that influence + the action of Great Britain, in reference to the slave-trade, there is the + grossest cruelty and injustice in carrying out her views. Attempts are now + being made to transport the rescued slaves in great numbers to the British + West India islands, at the expense of government. It is boldly + recommended, by men of high standing in England, to carry them all thither + at once. The effect of such a measure, gloss it over as you may, would be + to increase the black labor of the British islands, by just so much as is + deducted from the number of slaves, intended for the Spanish or Brazilian + possessions. "The sure cure for the slave-trade" says Mr. Laird, "is in + our own hands. It lies in producing cheaper commodities by free labor, in + our own colonies." And, to accomplish this desirable end, England will + seize upon the liberated Africans and land them in her West India islands, + with the alternative of adding their toil to the amount of her colonial + labor, or of perishing by starvation. How much better will their condition + be, as apprentices in Trinidad or Jamaica, than as slaves in Cuba? + Infinitely more wretched! English philanthropy cuts a very suspicious + figure, when, not content with neglecting the welfare of those whom she + undertakes to protect, she thus attempts to made them subservient to + national aggrandizement. The fate of the rescued slaves is scarcely better + than that of the crews of the captured slave-vessels. The latter are + landed on the nearest point of the African coast, where death by + starvation or fever almost certainly awaits them. + </p> + <p> + I am desirous to put the best construction possible on the conduct as well + of nations as of individuals, and never to entertain that cold scepticism + which explains away all generosity and philanthropy on motives of selfish + policy. But it is difficult to give unlimited faith to the ardent and + disinterested desire professed by England, to put a period to the + slave-trade. If sincere, why does she not, as she readily might, induce + Spain, Portugal, and Brazil, to declare the traffic piratical? And again, + why is not her own strength so directed as to give the trade a death-blow + at once? There are but two places between Sierra Leone and Accra, a + distance of one thousand miles, whence slaves are exported. One is + Gallinas; the other New Sesters. The English keep a cruiser off each of + these rivers. Slavers run in, take their cargoes of human flesh and blood, + and push off. If the cruiser can capture the vessels, the captors receive + £5 per head for the slaves on board, and the government has more + "emigrants" for its West India possessions. Now, were the cruisers to + anchor at the mouths of these two rivers, the slavers would be prevented + from putting to sea with their cargoes, and the trade at those places be + inevitably stopped. But, in this case, where would be the head-money and + the emigrants? + </p> + <p> + It has been asserted that the colonists of Liberia favor the slave-trade. + This is not true. The only places where the traffic is carried on, north + of the line, are in the neighborhood of the most powerful English + settlements on the whole coast; while even British authority does not + pretend that the vicinity of the American colonies is polluted by it. + Individuals among the colonists, unprincipled men, may, in a very few + instances, from love of gain, have given assistance to slavers, by + supplying goods or provisions at high prices. But this must have been done + secretly, or the law would have taken hold of them. Slavers, no doubt, + have often watered at Monrovia, but never when their character was known. + On the other hand, the slave stations at St. Paul's river, at Bassa, and + at Junk, have undeniably been broken up by the presence of the colonists. + Even if destitute of sympathy for fellow-men of their own race and hue, + and regardless of their deep stake in the preservation of their character, + the evident fact is, that self-interest would prompt the inhabitants of + Liberia to oppose the slave-trade in their vicinity. Wherever the slaver + comes, he purchases large quantities of rice at extravagant rates, thus + curtailing the supply to the colonist, and enhancing the price. Moreover, + the natives, always preferring the excitement of war to the labors of + peace, neglect the culture of the earth, and have no camwood nor palm-oil + to offer to the honest trader, who consequently finds neither buyers nor + sellers among them. + </p> + <p> + The truth is, the slave-traders can dispense with assistance from the + Liberian colonists. They procure goods, and everything necessary to their + trade, at Sierra Leone, or from any English or American vessel on the + coast. If the merchantmen find a good market for their cargoes, they are + satisfied, whatever be the character of their customers. This is well + understood and openly avowed here. The English have no right to taunt the + Americans, nor to claim higher integrity on their own part. They lend + precisely the same indirect aid to the traffic that the Americans do, and + furnish everything except vessels, which likewise they would supply, if + they could build them. It is the policy of the English ship-masters on the + coast to represent the Americans as engaged in the slave-trade; for if, by + such accusations, they can induce British or American men-of-war to detain + and examine the fair trader, they thus rid themselves of troublesome + rivals. + </p> + <p> + The natives are generally favorable to the slave-trade. It brings them + many comforts and luxuries, which the legitimate trade does not supply. + Their argument is, that "if a man goes into the Bush and buys camwood, he + must pay another to bring it to the beach. But if he buy a slave, this + latter commodity will not only walk, but bring a load of camwood on his + back." All slaves exported are Bushmen, many of whom are brought from two + or three hundred miles in the interior. The Fishmen and Kroomen are the + agents between the slave-traders and the interior tribes. They will not + permit the latter to become acquainted with the white men, lest their own + agency and its profits should cease. A slave, once sold, seldom returns to + his home. + </p> + <p> + If transported to a foreign country, his case is of course hopeless; and + even if recaptured on the coast, his return is almost impossible. His + home, probably, is far distant from the sea. It can only be reached by + traversing the territories of four or five nations, any one of whom would + seize the hapless stranger, and either consign him to slavery among + themselves, or send him again to a market on the coast. Hence, those + recaptured by the English cruisers are either settled at Sierra Leone, or + transported to some other of the colonies of Great Britain. + </p> + <p> + The price paid to the native agents for a full grown male slave, is about + one musket, twelve pieces of romauls, one cutlass, a demijohn of rum, a + bar of iron, a keg of powder, and ten bars of leaf-tobacco, the whole + amounting to the value of thirty to thirty-five dollars. A female is sold + for about a quarter less; and boys of twelve or thirteen command only a + musket and two pieces of romauls. Slave-vessels go from Havana with + nothing but dollars and doubloons. Other vessels go out with the above + species of goods, and all others requisite for the trade. The slaver buys + the goods on the coast, pays for them with specie, and lands them in + payment for the slaves, money being but little used in traffic with the + natives. + </p> + <p> + 13.—The Decatur arrived this evening, after a passage of thirty days + from Porto Praya. She left the Macedonian on the way, the winds being + light, the current adverse, and the frigate sailing very badly. + </p> + <p> + 17.—The Macedonian arrived. + </p> + <p> + Coming off from town, to-day, I took a canoe with a couple of Kroomen, who + paddled down the river, till we arrived at a narrow part of the + promontory. On touching the shallows, one of the Kroomen took me on his + back to the dry land. The two then picked up the canoe, carried her across + the cape, perhaps a hundred yards, and launched her, with myself on board, + through the heavy surf. + </p> + <p> + 21.—Sailed at daylight for Sinoe, leaving the Macedonian and + Decatur, an American ship and barque, an English brig, and two Hamburg + vessels, at anchor. + </p> + <p> + 25.—Anchored at Sinoe at noon. + </p> + <p> + 26.—Ashore. Visited Fishtown, a well-built native village, + containing probably four hundred inhabitants. It is within about two + hundred yards of the colonial dwellings. The people are said to have + committed many depredations upon the colonists; and there is an evident + intention of driving them off. This is the tribe with which we are to hold + a palaver. + </p> + <p> + There are two grand divisions of native Africans on the Western Coast, the + Fishmen and the Bushmen; the latter being inhabitants of the interior; and + the former comprising all the tribes along the sea-shore, who gain a + subsistence by fishing, trading between the Bushmen and foreign vessels, + and laboring on shipboard. The Kroomen, so often mentioned, are in some + respects a distinct and separate people; although a large proportion, + probably nine-tenths of those bearing that name, are identical with the + Fishmen. The latter are generally treacherous and deceitful; the Kroomen + are much more honest, but still are not to be trusted without reserve and + discrimination. + </p> + <p> + The government of these people, and of the natives generally, is nominally + monarchical, but democratic in substance. The regal office appears to be + hereditary in a family, but not to descend according to our ideas of + lineal succession. The power of the king is greatly circumscribed by the + privilege, which every individual in the tribe possesses, of calling a + palaver. If a man deems himself injured, he demands a full discussion of + his rights or wrongs, in presence of the rulers and the tribe. The + head-men sit in judgment, and substantial justice is generally done. There + are persons, celebrated for their power and copiousness of talking, who + appear as counsel in behalf of the respective parties. The more + distinguished of these advocates are sometimes sent for, from a distance + of two or three hundred miles, to speak at a palaver; and, in such cases, + they leave all other employment, and hurry to the scene of action. + </p> + <p> + It would appear that, on other parts of the coast, or farther in the + interior, the native kings possess more power and assume greater state, + than those who have come under my notice. The King of Appollonia, + adjoining Axim Territory, is said to be very rich and powerful. If the + report of his nearest civilized neighbor, the Governor of Axim, is to be + credited, this potentate's house is furnished most sumptuously in the + European style. Gold cups, pitchers, and plates, are used at his table, + with furniture of corresponding magnificence in all the departments of his + household. He possesses vast treasures in bullion and gold dust. The + Governor of Dixcove informed me, that, about four years ago, he + accompanied an English expedition against Appollonia, which is still + claimed by England, although their fort there has been abandoned. On their + approach, the King fled, and left them masters of the place. Some of the + English soldiers opened the sepulchre of the King last deceased, and took + away an unknown amount of gold. Afterwards, by order of the Governor, the + remainder was taken from the grave, amounting to several hundred dollars. + Together with the treasure, numerous articles had been buried, such as a + knife, plate, and cup, swords, guns, cloth, goods of various kinds, and, + in short, every thing that the dead King had required while alive. There + were also four skeletons, two of each sex, buried beneath the royal + coffin. It is said that sixty victims were sacrificed on occasion of the + funeral, of whom only the most distinguished were allowed, even in death, + to approach their master so nearly, and act as his immediate attendants in + the world of spirits. The splendor of an African funeral, on the Gold + Coast, is unparalleled. It is customary for persons of wealth to smear the + corpses of their friends with oil, and then to powder them with gold-dust + from head to foot, so as to produce the appearance of bronzed or golden + statues. + </p> + <p> + The present King of Appollonia deposited six hundred ounces of gold (about + ten thousand dollars) with the Governor of Cape Coast Castle, as security + for his good behavior. His cellar is well supplied with rare wines, which + he offers liberally to strangers who land at his residence. All these + circumstances, and this barbaric magnificence, indicate a far different + condition from that of the native Kings in the vicinity of Liberia, who + live simply, like their subjects, on vegetables and fish, and one of whom + was proud to array himself in a cast-off garment of my own. Their wealth + consists not in gold, plate, or bullion, but in crockery and earthenware. + Not only the Kings, but all the rich natives, accumulate articles of this + kind, until their dwellings resemble warehouses of crockery. Perhaps fifty + white wash-bowls, with as many pitchers, mugs, and plates, may be seen + around the room; and when these utensils become so numerous as to excite + the envy of the tribe, the owners are said to bury them in the earth. In + the house of King Glass (so named, I presume, from the transparency of his + character), I noticed the first indications of a taste for the Fine Arts. + Seventy coarse colored engravings, glazed and framed, were suspended on + the wall; and, what was most curious, nearly all of them were copies of + the same print, a portrait of King William the Fourth. + </p> + <p> + It is to be desired that some missionary should give an account of the + degree and kind of natural religion among the native tribes. Their belief + in the efficacy of sassy-wood to discover guilt or innocence, indicates a + faith in an invisible Equity. Some of them, however, select the most + ridiculous of animals, the monkey, as their visible symbol of the Deity; + or, as appears more probable, they stand in spiritual awe of him, from an + idea that the souls of the dead are again embodied in this shape. Under + this impression, they pay a kind of worship to the monkey, and never kill + him near a burial-place; and though, in other situations, they kill and + eat him, they endeavor to propitiate his favor by respectful language, and + the use of charms. Other natives, in the neighborhood of Gaboon, worship + the shark, and throw slaves to him to be devoured. + </p> + <p> + On the whole, their morality is superior to their religion—at least, + as between members of the same tribe—although they scarcely seem to + acknowledge moral obligations in respect to strangers. Their landmarks, + for instance, are held sacred among the individuals of a tribe. A father + takes his son, and points out the "stake and stones" which mark the + boundary between him and his neighbor. There needs no other registry. Land + passes from sire to son, and is sold and bought with as undisputed and + secure a title as all our deeds and formalities can establish. But, + between different tribes, wars frequently arise on disputed boundary + questions, and in consequence of encroachments made by either party. + "Land-palavers" and "Women-palavers" are the great causes of war. Veracity + seems to be the virtue most indiscriminately practised, as well towards + the stranger as the brother. The natives are cautious as to the accuracy + of the stories which they promulgate, and seldom make a stronger + asseveration than "I tink he be true!" Yet their consciences do not shrink + from the use of falsehood and artifice, where these appear expedient. + </p> + <p> + The natives are not insensible to the advantages of education. They are + fond of having their children in the families of colonists, where they + learn English, and the manners of civilized life, and get plenty to eat. + Probably the parents hope, in this way, to endow their offspring with some + of the advantages which they suppose the white man to possess over the + colored race. So sensible are they of their own inferiority, that if a + person looks sternly in the face of a native, when about to be attacked by + him, and calls out to him loudly, the chances are ten to one that the + native runs away. This effect is analogous to that which the eye of man is + said to exert on the fiercest of savage beasts. The same involuntary and + sad acknowledgment of a lower order of being appears in their whole + intercourse with the whites. Yet such self-abasement is scarcely just; for + the slave-traders, who constitute the specimens of civilized man with whom + the natives have hitherto been most familiar, are by no means on a par + with themselves, in a moral point of view. It is a pity to see such awful + homage rendered to the mere intellect, apart from truth and goodness. + </p> + <p> + It is a redeeming trait of the native character, so far as it goes, that + women are not wholly without influence in the public councils. If, when a + tribe is debating the expediency of going to war, the women come beneath + the council-tree, and represent the evils that will result, their opinion + will have great weight, and may probably turn the scale in favor of peace. + On the other hand, if the women express a wish that they were men, in + order that they might go to war, the warriors declare for it at once. It + is to be feared, that there is an innate fierceness even in the gentler + sex, which makes them as likely to give their voices for war as for peace. + It is a feminine office and privilege, on the African coast, to torture + prisoners taken in war, by sticking thorns in their flesh, and in various + other modes, before they are put to death. The unfortunate Captain Farwell + underwent three hours of torture, at the hands of the women and children. + So, likewise, did the mate of Captain Burke's vessel, at Sinoe. + </p> + <p> + The natives are very cruel in their fights, and spare neither age nor sex; + they kill the women and female children, lest they should be the mothers + of future warriors, and the boys, lest they should fight hereafter. If + they take prisoners, it is either to torture them to death, or to sell + them as slaves. The Fishmen have often evinced courage and obstinacy in + war, as was the case in their assaults upon the Liberian settlers, in the + heroic age of the colony, when Ashman and his associates displayed such + warlike ability in defeating them. The Bushmen are as cruel as the former, + but appear to be more cowardly. I have heard the Rev. Mr. Brown, himself + an actor in the scene, relate the story of the fight at Heddington, in + which three colonists, assisted by two women, were attacked at daybreak by + five hundred natives, many of whom were armed with muskets. Zion Harris + and Mr. Demery were the marksmen, while the clergyman assumed the duty of + loading the guns. The natives rushed onward in so dense a crowd, that + almost every bullet and buckshot of the defenders hit its man. The + besieged had but six muskets, one hundred cartridges, and a few charges of + powder. Their external fortifications consisted only of a slight + picket-fence, which might have been thrown down in an instant. But, + fortunately, when there were but three charges of powder left in the + house, a shot killed Gotorap, the chief of the assailants, at whose fall + the whole army fled in dismay. One of the trophies of their defeat was the + kettle which they had brought for the purpose of cooking the missionaries, + and holding a cannibal feast. The battle-field is poetically termed the + bed of honor: but the bravest man might be excused for shrinking from a + burial in his enemy's stomach! Poetry can make nothing of such a fate. + </p> + <p> + Rude and wretched as is the condition of the natives, it has been affirmed + that many of the Liberian colonists have mingled with them, and preferred + their savage mode of life to the habits of civilisation. Only one instance + of the kind has come to my personal knowledge. We had on board, for two or + three months, a party of Kroomen, among whom was one, dressed like the + rest, but speaking better English. Being questioned, he said that he had + learned English on board of merchant-vessels, where he had been employed + for several years. We took this young man into the ward-room, where he + worked for three months, associating chiefly with the Kroomen on deck, + speaking their language, and perfectly resembling them in his appearance + and general habits. About the time of discharging him, we discovered that + he was a native of North Carolina, had resided many years in Liberia, but, + being idle and vicious, had finally given up the civilized for the savage + state. His real name was Elijah Park; his assumed one, William Henry. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. + </h2> + <p> + Palaver at Sinoe—Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen—Palaver at + Settra Kroo—Mrs. Sawyer—Objections to the Marriage of + Missionaries—A Centipede—Arrival at Cape Palmas—Rescue + of the Sassy Wood-Drinker Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <i>November</i> 27.—At Sinoe. The settlement here is in a poor condition. +The inhabitants are apparently more ignorant and lazy than the colonists +on any other part of the coast. Yet they have a beautiful and fertile +situation. +</pre> + <p> + 28.—The Macedonian and Decatur arrived. Governor Roberts, and other + persons of authority and distinction among the colonists, were passengers, + in order to be present at the intended palaver. + </p> + <p> + 29.—At 9 A.M., thirteen boats left the different ships, armed, and + having about seventy-five marines on board, besides the sailors. Entering + the river, with flags flying and muskets glittering, the boats lay on + their oars until all were in a line, and then pulled at once for the + beach, as if about to charge a hostile battery. The manoeuvre was + handsomely executed, and seemed to give great satisfaction to some thirty + colonists and fifty naked natives, who were assembled on the beach. The + officers and marines were landed, and formed in line, under the direction + of Lieutenant Rich. The music then struck up, while the Commodore and + Governor Roberts slept ashore, and the whole detachment marched to the + palaver-house, which, on this occasion, was the Methodist Church. + </p> + <p> + The Commodore seated himself behind a small table, which was covered with + a napkin. The officers, with Governor Roberts and Doctor Day, occupied + seats on his right, and the native chiefs, as they dropped in, found + places on the left. If the latter fell short of us in outward pomp and + martial array, they had certainly the advantage of rank, there being about + twenty kings and headmen of the tribes among them. Governor Roberts opened + the palaver in the Commodore's name, informing the assembled chiefs, that + he had come to talk to them about the slaughter of the mate and cook, + belonging to Captain Burke's vessel. Jim Davis, who conducted the palaver + on the part of the natives, professed to know nothing of the matter, the + chiefs present being Bushmen, whereas the party concerned were Fishmen. + After a little exhibition of diplomacy, Davis retired, and Prince Tom came + forward and submitted to an examination. His father is king of the tribe + of Fishmen, implicated in the killing of the two men. The prince denied + any personal knowledge on the subject, but observed that the deed had been + done in war, and that the tribe were not responsible. When asked where + Nippoo was (a chief known to have taken a leading part in the affray), he + at first professed ignorance, but, on being hard pressed, offered to go + and seek him. He was informed, however, that he could not be permitted to + retire, but must produce Nippoo on the spot, or be taken to America. + </p> + <p> + The council went on. The depositions of three colonists were taken, and + the facts in the case brought out. They were substantially in accordance + with the narrative already given in this Journal; and, upon full + investigation, Captain Burke was decided to have been the aggressor. The + proceedings of the Fishmen had been fierce and savage, but were redeemed + by a quality of wild justice, and exhibited them altogether in a better + light than the white men. + </p> + <p> + This affair being adjusted, the business of the palaver might be + considered at an end, so far as the American squadron had any immediate + connection with it. But there were points of importance to be settled, + between the natives and the colonists. It was the interest of the latter, + that the Fishmen, residing in the neighborhood of the settlement, should + be ejected from their land, which would certainly be a very desirable + acquisition to the emigrants. It seems, that the land originally belonged + to the Sinoe tribe, whose head-quarters are four miles inland. Several + years ago, long before the arrival of the emigrants, this tribe gave + permission to a horde of Fishmen to occupy the site, but apparently + without relinquishing their own property in the soil. Feeble at first, the + tenants wore a friendly demeanor towards their landlords, and made + themselves useful, until, gradually acquiring strength, they became + insolent, and assumed an attitude of independence. Setting the interior + tribe, of whom they held the land, at defiance, these Fishmen put an + interdict upon their trading with foreigners, except through their own + agency. Eight or ten years ago, however, the inland natives sold the land + to the Colonization Society, subject to the incumbrance of the Fishmen's + occupancy, during good behavior; a condition which the colonists likewise + pledged themselves to the Fishmen to observe, unless the conduct of the + latter should nullify it. + </p> + <p> + For the last two or three years, the settlement at Sinoe, being neglected + by the Mississippi Society, under whose patronage it was established, has + dwindled and grown weaker in numbers and spirit. The Fishmen, with their + characteristic audacity, have assumed a bolder aspect, and, besides + committing many depredations on the property of the colonists, have + murdered two or three of their number. The murderers, it is true, were + delivered up by the tribe, and punished at the discretion of the Monrovian + authorities; but the colonists at Sinoe felt themselves too feeble to + redress their lighter wrongs, and therefore refrained from demanding + satisfaction. About a month since, an addition of sixty new emigrants was + made to the seventy, already established there. Considering themselves now + adequate to act on the offensive, they determined to drive off the + Fishmen. In this purpose they were confirmed by the Monrovian government; + and it was a part of the governor's business, at the palaver, to provide + for its execution. + </p> + <p> + Governor Roberts exhibited much sagacity and diplomatic shrewdness in + accomplishing his object. It was obviously important to obtain the + assistance of the Bushmen, in expelling and keeping away the Fishmen. + They, however, were unwilling to take part in the matter, alleging their + fears as an excuse; although it might probably be a stronger reason, that + they could trade more advantageously with merchant-vessels, through the + medium of the Fishmen, than by the agency of the colonists. + </p> + <p> + But the interposition of the American Commodore, and the affair of the + murder, afforded the Governor the advantage of mixing up that question + with the colonial one; so as to give the natives the impression that + everything was done at the instance and under the authority of our armed + force. This vantage-ground he skilfully made use of, yet not without its + being perceived, by the native politicians, that the question of expelling + the Fishmen was essentially distinct from that of the murder of Captain + Burke's seamen. Davis the interpreter, and one of the headmen of the Sinoe + tribe, inquired why the Commodore did not first talk his palaver, and then + the Governor in turn talk his. It did not suit his excellency's views to + answer; and the question was evaded. By this ingenious policy, the Bushmen + were induced to promise their aid in ridding the settlement of its + troublesome neighbors; while the Fishmen, overawed by the presence of a + force friendly to the colonists, submitted to their expulsion with a + quietude that could not, under other circumstances, have been expected. + Doubtless, they had forfeited their claim to the land by non-observance of + the conditions on which they held it; yet, in some points, the affair had + remarkably the aspect of a forcible acquisition of territory by the + colonists. + </p> + <p> + No time was lost in carrying the decree of the palaver into execution. + Apprehending hostilities from the squadron, the Fishmen had already + removed most of their property, as well as their women and children, and + had evacuated the town. Governor Roberts, Mr. Brown, Doctor Day, late + government agent, together with a few colonists, repaired to the place and + directed its demolition. This was partially effected by the natives, of + whom some hundreds from the interior were present. They cut down and + unroofed many of the dwellings; and the Governor left directions to burn + every house, if the Fishmen should attempt to re-occupy the town. This + wild horde, therefore, may be considered as permanently ejected from the + ground which they held on so singular a tenure; and thus terminated an + affair which throws a strong light on many of the characteristics of the + natives, and likewise on the relations between them and the emigrants. + </p> + <p> + <i>December</i> 3.—We sailed, at two o'clock A.M., for Settra Kroo, + fifteen miles down the coast. Anchored at eleven A.M. A boat being sent + ashore, brought news of the death of Mr. Sawyer, the missionary. He left a + wife, now the only white person at the place. + </p> + <p> + 4.—The boats landed at Settra Kroo, to settle a palaver. The matter + in question was the violence offered by the natives to Captain Brown, + master of an American vessel, in striking and attempting to kill him. They + admitted the fact, begged pardon, and agreed to pay ten bullocks, four + sheep, and some fowls, or the value thereof, to Captain Brown, and further + to permit him to trade without payment of the usual "dash." This town is + said to be very superior to any other native settlement on the coast; and + the people are the best informed, most intelligent, and the finest in + personal appearance, that we have met with. + </p> + <p> + Dined on shore. Mrs. Sawyer presided at the table, although her husband + was buried only yesterday. It is impossible not to look with admiration at + this lady, whose husband and only child have fallen victims to the + climate, yet who believes it her duty to remain alone, upon a barbarous + coast, in a position which perhaps no other woman ever voluntarily + occupied. She is faithful to her trust, as the companion of him who fell + at his post, and is doubtless happy in obedience to the unworldly motives + that guide her determination. Yet I cannot reconcile myself to the idea of + a woman sharing the martyrdom, which seems a proper, and not an + undesirable fate (so it come in the line of his duty) for a man. I doubt + the expediency of sending missionary ladies to perish here. Indeed, it may + well be questioned whether a missionary ought, in any country, to be a + married man. The care of a family must distract his attention and weaken + his efficiency; and herein, it may be, consists one great advantage which + the Catholic missionary possesses over the Protestant. He can penetrate + into the interior; he can sleep in the hut, and eat the simple food of a + native. But, if there be a wife and children, they must have houses and a + thousand other comforts, which are not only expensive and difficult to + obtain, but are clogs to keep the missionary down to one spot. I know how + much the toil and suffering of man is alleviated, in these far-off + regions, by the tenderness of woman. But the missionary is, by his + profession, a devoted man; he seeks, in this life, not his own happiness, + but the eternal good of others. Compare him with the members of my own + profession. We are sustained by no such lofty faith as must be supposed to + animate him, yet we find it possible to spend years upon the barren deep, + exposed to every variety of climate, and seeking peril wherever it may be + found—and all without the aid of woman's ministrations. Can a man, + vowed to the service of a Divine Master, think it much to practise similar + self-denial? + </p> + <p> + 5.—This morning, while performing my ablutions with a large sponge, + a centipede, four and a half inches long, crawled out of one of the + orifices, and, ran over my hand. The venomous reptile was killed, without + any harm being done. It had probably been hidden in one of a number of + large land-shells, which I brought on board a day or two ago. His touch + upon my hand was the most disagreeable sensation that I have yet + experienced in Africa. + </p> + <p> + For a month past it has rained almost every night, but only three or four + times during the day. The tornadoes have not troubled us, and the regular + land and sea-breezes prevail. + </p> + <p> + 6.—At 4 P. M., anchored off Cape Palmas. The Decatur had hardly + clewed up her top-sails, when she was directed by signal to make sail + again. Shortly afterwards, a boat from the frigate brought us intelligence + that there is trouble here between the natives and the colonists. The + boats are ordered to be in readiness to go ashore to-morrow, in order to + settle a palaver. The Decatur has gone to Caraway to protect the + missionaries there. Thus we are in a fair way to have plenty of work, + palavering with the natives and protecting the colonists. Not improbably, + the latter have felt encouraged, by the presence of our squadron, to + assume a higher tone towards the natives than heretofore. But we shall + see. + </p> + <p> + 8.—We landed, this morning, with nine armed boats, to examine into + the difficulties above alluded to. The first duty that it fell to our lot + to perform, was one of humanity. We had scarcely reached Governor + Russwurm's house, when, observing a crowd of people about a mile off, on + the beach, we learned that a man was undergoing the ordeal of drinking + sassy-wood. The Commodore, with most of the officers, hastened immediately + to the rescue. On approaching the spot, we saw a woman with an infant on + her back, walking to and fro, wailing bitterly, and throwing up her arms + in agony. Further on, we met four children, from eight to twelve years of + age, crying loudly as they came towards us, and apparently imploring us to + save their father. Beyond them, and as near the crowd as she dared go, + stood a young woman, supporting herself on a staff, with the tears + streaming down her cheeks, while she gazed earnestly at the spot where her + husband was suffering. Although she took no notice of us, her low moans + were more impressive than the vociferous agony of the former woman; and we + could not but suppose that the man was peculiarly amiable in the domestic + relations, since his impending fate awakened more grief in the hearts of + <i>two</i> wives, than, in civilized life, we generally see exhibited by + one. Meeting a colonist, with intelligence that the victim was nearly + dead, we quickened our pace to a fast run. + </p> + <p> + Before we could reach the spot, however, the man had been put into a + canoe, and paddled out into a lagoon by one of the party, while the + remainder moved on to meet us. The Commodore ordered two of the leaders to + be seized and kept prisoners, until the drinker of sassy-wood should be + given up. This had the desired effect; and, in half an hour, there came to + the Government House a hard-featured man of about fifty, escorted by a + crowd, no small portion of which was composed of his own multifarious + wives and children, all displaying symptoms of high satisfaction. He + looked much exhausted, but was taken into the house and treated medically, + with the desired success. When sufficiently recovered he will be sent to a + neighboring town, where he must remain, until permitted by the customs of + his people to return. He had been subjected to the ordeal, in order to + test the truth or falsehood of an accusation brought against him, of + having caused the death of a man of consequence, by incantations and + necromantic arts. In such cases, a strong decoction of the sassy-wood bark + is the universally acknowledged medium of coming at the truth. The natives + believe that the tree has a supernatural quality, potent in destroying + witches and driving out evil spirits; nor, although few escape, do the + accused persons often object to quaffing the deadly draught. If it fail to + operate fatally, it is generally by the connivance of those who administer + it, in concocting the potion of such strength that the stomach shall + reject it. Should the suspected wizard escape the operation of the + sassy-wood, it is customary to kill him by beating on the head with clubs + and stones; his property is forfeited; and the party accusing him feast on + the cattle of their victim. The man whom we rescued had taken a gallon of + the decoction the previous evening, and about the same quantity just + before we interrupted the ordeal. His wealth had probably excited the envy + of his accusers. + </p> + <p> + We had just returned to the Government House and were about to seat + ourselves at the dinner-table, when an alarm-gun was heard from Mount + Tubman. A messenger soon arrived to say that the natives were attempting + to force their way through the settlement, to the Cape. The marines, + together with all the officers who could be spared, were instantly on the + march. The Commodore and Governor Russwurm led the force, on horseback; + the flag-lieutenant and myself being the only other officers fortunate + enough to procure animals. Mine was the queerest charger on which a knight + ever rode to battle; a little donkey, scarcely high enough to keep my feet + from the ground; so lazy that I could only force him into a trot by the + continual prick of my sword; and so vicious that he threw me twice, in + requital of my treatment. The rest of the detachment footed it four miles, + on a sandy road, and under the scorching sun. On the way we overtook + several armed colonists, hurrying to the point of danger. Passing the foot + of Mount Vaughan we reached Mount Tubman, and, ascending a steep, conical + hill, found ourselves on a level space of a hundred yards in diameter, + with a strong picket-fence surrounding it, and a solitary house in the + centre. Fifteen or sixteen armed men were on the watch, as conscious of + the neighborhood of an enemy; the piazza was crowded with women and + children; and from the interior of the house came the merry voices of + above a score of little boys and girls, ignorant of danger, and enjoying a + high frolic. Apart, by the wall, sat a blind man, grasping his staff with + a tremulous hand; and near him lay a sick woman, who had been brought in + from a neighboring farm-house. All these individuals, old and young, had + been driven hither for refuge by the alarm of war. + </p> + <p> + Not far off, we beheld tokens that an attack had been made, and sternly + resisted by the little garrison of the stockade. On the side opposite the + Cape, a steep path rose towards the gate. Some twenty yards down this + passage lay a native, dead, with an ugly hole in his scull; and, in a + narrow path to the right, was stretched another, who had met his death + from a bullet-wound in the centre of his forehead. The ball had cut the + ligature which bound his "greegree" of shells around his head, and the + faithless charm lay on the ground beside him. Already, the flies were + beginning to cluster about the dead man's mouth. The attacking party, to + which these slain individuals belonged, were of the Barroky tribe. It is + supposed that, knowing King Freeman to be at variance with the colonists, + and hearing the salute in honor of the Commodore's landing, they mistook + it for the commencement of hostilities, and came in to support the native + party and gather spoil. + </p> + <p> + As their repulse had evidently been decisive, we looked around us to enjoy + the extensive and diversified view from the summit of the hill. Casting + our eyes along the road which we had just passed, the principal settlement + was visible, consisting of two separate villages, intermingled with large + native towns, the dwellings in which greatly outnumbered those of the + colonists. On one side of the rude promontory ran a small river; on the + other, the sea rolled its unquiet waves. At a short distance from the + shore was seen the rocky islet, bearing the name of Go-to-Hell, where the + natives bury their dead. Northward, were the farms of those whom the + recent hostile incursion had driven to this place of refuge. In various + directions, several spurs of hills were visible, on one of which, + glittering among the trees, appeared the white edifices of the Mount + Vaughan Episcopal Mission. + </p> + <p> + On our return, some of the party halted at the Mission establishment; but + I urged my little donkey onward, and, though this warlike episode had cost + me a dinner, made my re-appearance at the Governor's table in time for the + dessert. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. + </h2> + <p> + Palaver with King Freeman—Remarks on the Influence of Missionaries—Palaver + at Rock Boukir—Narrative of Captain Farwell's Murder—Scene of + Embarkation through the Surf—Sail for Little Berebee. + </p> + <p> + <i>December</i> 9.—At Cape Palmas. We again landed, as on the + preceding day, and met the redoubtable King Freeman, and twenty-three + other kings and headmen from the tribes in the vicinity. The palaver, like + that at Sinoe, was held in the Methodist Church; the Commodore, the + Governor, and several officers and colonists, appearing on one side, and + the natives on the other. There were several striking countenances among + the four-and-twenty negro potentates, and some, even, that bore the marks + of native greatness; as might well be the case, in a system of society + where rank and authority are, in a great measure, the result of individual + talent and force of character. One head man was very like Henry Clay, both + in face and figure. It is remarkable, too, that one of the chiefs at Sinoe + not only had a strong personal resemblance to the same distinguished + statesman—being, as it were, his image in ebony, or bronze—but, + while not speaking, moved constantly about the palaver-house, as is Mr. + Clay's habit in the senate-chamber. The interpreter, on the present + occasion, Yellow Will by name, was dressed in a crimson mantle of silk + damask, poncho-shaped, and trimmed with broad gold lace. + </p> + <p> + The palaver being opened, the colonists complained that the chiefs had + raised to double what it had been, or ought to be, the prices of rice and + other products, for which the settlements were dependent upon the natives; + also, that they would permit no merchant vessels to communicate with the + colonial town. On representation of these grievances, the Kings agreed to + rescind the obnoxious regulations. This, however, did not satisfy the + Governor, who had hoped to induce King Freeman to remove his town to + another site, and allow the colonists more room. As matters at present + stand, the King's capital city is within three hundred yards of Governor + Russwurm's house, and entirely disunites the colonial settlements on the + Cape. In case of war, the communication between these two sections of the + town of Harper would be completely broken off. The Governor, therefore, + proposed that King Freeman should sell his land on the Cape, receiving a + fair equivalent from the colony, and should transplant his town across the + river, or elsewhere. But the King showed no inclination to comply; nor did + the Commodore, apparently, deem it his province to support Governor + Russwurm, or take any part in the question. The point was accordingly + given up; the Governor merely requesting King Freeman to "look his head," + that is, consider—and let him know his determination. + </p> + <p> + There was also a complaint made, on the part of the missionaries, that the + natives had cut off their supplies, and had attempted to take away the + native children, who had been given them to educate. I was subsequently + informed, however, by the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, that the missionaries had + no difficulty with the natives, and did not wish their affairs to be + identified with those of the colonists. The above representation, + therefore, appears to have been unauthorized by the mission establishment. + And here, without presuming to offer an opinion as respects their conduct + at this particular juncture, I must be allowed to say, that the + missionaries at Liberia have shown themselves systematically disposed to + claim a position entirely independent of the colonies. They are supported + by wealthy and powerful societies at home; they have been accustomed to + look upon their own race as superior to the colored people; they are + individually conscious, no doubt, in many cases, of an intellectual + standing above that of the persons prominent among the emigrants; and they + are not always careful to conceal their sense of such general or + particular superiority. It is certain, too, that the native Africans + regard the whites with much greater respect than those of their own color. + Hence, it is almost impossible but that jealousy of missionary influence + should exist in the minds of the colonial authorities. The latter + perceive, in the midst of their commonwealth, an alien power, exercised by + persons not entitled to the privileges of citizenship, and to whom it was + never intended to allow voice or action in public affairs. By such a state + of things, the progress of Christianity and civilisation must be rather + retarded than advanced. + </p> + <p> + There is reason, therefore, to doubt whether the labors of white + missionaries, in the territory over which the colonists exercise + jurisdiction, is, upon the whole, beneficial. If removed beyond those + limits, and insulated among the natives, they may accomplish infinite + good; but not while assuming an anomalous position of independence, and + thwarting the great experiment which the founders of Liberia had in view. + One grand object of these colonies is, to test the disputed and doubtful + point, whether the colored race be capable of sustaining themselves + without the aid or presence of the whites. In order to a fair trial of the + question, it seems essential that none but colored missionaries should be + sent hither. The difficulties between the Government and the Methodist + Episcopal mission confirm these views. At a former period, that mission + possessed power almost sufficient to subvert the Colonial rule. + </p> + <p> + Let it not be supposed, that these remarks are offered in any spirit of + hostility to missionaries. My intercourse with them in different parts of + the world, has been of the most friendly nature. I owe much to their + kindness, and can bear cheerful testimony to the laborious, self-devoting + spirit in which they do their duty. At Athens, I have seen them toiling + unremittingly, for years, to educate the ignorant and degraded descendants + of the ancient Greeks, and was proud that my own country—in a + hemisphere of which Plato never dreamed—should have sent back to + Greece a holier wisdom than he diffused from thence. In the unhealthy isle + of Cyprus, I have beheld them perishing without a murmur, and their places + filled with new votaries, stepping over the graves of the departed, and + not less ready to spend and be spent in the cause of their Divine Master. + I have witnessed the flight of whole families from the mountains of + Lebanon, where they had lingered until its cedars were prostrate beneath + the storm of war, and only then came to shelter themselves under the flag + of their country. Everywhere, the spirit of the American Missionaries has + been honorable to their native land; nor, whatever be their human + imperfections, is it too much to term them holy in their lives, and often + martyrs in their deaths. And none more so than the very men of whom I now + speak, in these sickly regions of Africa, where I behold them sinking, + more or less gradually, but with certainty, and destitute of almost every + earthly comfort, into their graves. I criticise portions of their conduct, + but reverence their purity of motive; and only regret, that, while + divesting themselves of so much that is worldly, they do not retain either + more wisdom of this world, or less aptness to apply a disturbing influence + to worldly affairs. + </p> + <p> + But it is time to return from this digression. Matters being now in a good + train at Cape Palmas, we go to use our pacific influence elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + 10.—We sailed at daylight, and anchored this evening at Rock Boukir. + </p> + <p> + 11.—In the morning, twelve armed boats were sent ashore from the + three ships. We landed on an open beach, all in safety, but more or less + drenched by the dangerous surf. One or two boats took in heavy seas, + broached to, and rolled over and over in the gigantic surf-wave. On + landing, we found a body of armed natives, perhaps fifty in number, drawn + up in a line. Their weapons were muskets, iron war-spears, long + fish-spears of wood, and broad knives. They made no demonstrations of + opposing us, but stood stoutly in their ranks, showing more independence + of bearing and less fear, than any natives whom we have met with. They + were evidently under military rule, and, as well as the remainder of the + tribe, evinced a degree of boldness, amounting almost to insolence, which, + it must be owned, would have made our party the more ready for a tustle, + on any reasonable pretext. + </p> + <p> + The town of Rock Boukir is enclosed by palisades, about eight feet high, + with small gates on every side. It was not the purpose of the natives to + admit us within their walls; but a rain made it desirable that the palaver + should be held in a sheltered place, instead of on the beach, as had been + originally intended. + </p> + <p> + We therefore marched in, took possession of the place, and stationed + sentinels at every gate. The town was entirely deserted; for the warriors + had gone forth to fight, if a fight there was to be; and the women and + children were sent for security into the "bush." In the central square + stood the Palaver House, beneath the shadow of a magnificent + wide-spreading tree, which had perhaps mingled the murmur of its leaves + with the eloquence of the native orators, for at least a century. Here we + posted ourselves, and awaited the King of Rock Boukir. + </p> + <p> + The messengers announced, that he wished to bring his armed men within the + walls, and occupy one side of the town, while our party held the other. As + this proposition was not immediately acceded to, and as the King would not + recede, it seemed doubtful whether there would be any palaver, after all. + At length, however, the Commodore ordered the removal of our sentinels + from the gates, on one side of the town, and consented that the native + warriors should come in. A further delay was accounted for, on the plea + that the King was putting on his robes of state. Finally, he entered the + Palaver House and seated himself; an old man of sinister aspect, meanly + dressed, and having for his only weapon a short sword, with a curved + blade, six inches wide. Governor Roberts now opened the palaver, by + informing the king that his tribe were suspected of having participated in + the plunder of the Mary Carver, and the murder of her captain and crew. I + subjoin a brief narrative of this affair. + </p> + <p> + Two years since, the schooner Mary Carver, of Salem, commanded by Captain + Farwell of Vassalboro', was anchored at Half Berebee, for the purpose of + trading with the natives. Her cargo was valued at twelve thousand dollars. + Captain Farwell felt great confidence in the people of Half Berebee, + although warned not to trust them too far, as they had the character of + being fierce and treacherous. One day, being alone on shore, the natives + knocked him down, bound him, and delivered him to the women and children, + to be tortured by sticking thorns into his flesh. After three hours of + this horrible agony, the men despatched him. As soon as the captain was + secured, a large party was sent on board the vessel, to surprise and + murder the mate and crew. In this they were perfectly successful; not a + soul on board escaped. They then took part of the goods out, and ran the + schooner ashore, where she was effectually plundered. Within a space of + twelve miles along the beach, there are five or six families of Fishmen, + ruled by different members of the Cracko family, of which Ben Cracko of + Half Berebee is the head. All these towns were implicated in the plot, and + received a share of the plunder. A Portuguese schooner had been taken, and + her crew murdered, at the same place, a year before. The business had + turned out so profitably, that other tribes on the coast began to envy the + good fortune of the Crackos, and declared that they likewise were going to + "catch" a vessel. + </p> + <p> + The object of our present palaver was to inquire into the alleged agency + of the tribe at Rock Boukir in the above transaction. The King, speaking + in his own language, strenuously denied the charge; at the same time + touching his ears and drawing his tongue over his short curved + broad-sword. By these symbols and hieroglyphics, I supposed him to mean, + that he had merely heard of the affair, and that his sword was innocent of + the blood imputed to him. It seems, however, that it is the native form of + taking an oath, equivalent to our kissing the book. The King agreed to go + to Berebee, and assist in the grand palaver to be held there; complying + with a proposal of the Commodore, to take passage thither in the + Macedonian. Matters being so far settled, the council was broken up, and + the party re-embarked. + </p> + <p> + Several of the boats having been anchored outside of the surf, the + officers and men were carried off to them in the native canoes. The scene + on the beach was quite animated. Hundreds of natives, having laid aside + their weapons, crowded around to watch the proceedings. The women and + children came from the woods in swarms, all talking, screaming, laughing, + and running hither and thither. The canoes were constantly passing from + the shore to the boats, carrying two persons at a time. Our men, being + unaccustomed to such rough water and unsteady conveyances, often capsized + the canoes and were tumbled ashore by the surf, perhaps with the loss of + hats, jackets, or weapons. Here was visible the head of a marine, swimming + to one of the boats, with his musket in his hand. Another, unable to swim, + was upheld by a Krooman. Here and there, an impatient individual plunged + into the surf and struck out for his boat, rather than await the tedious + process of embarkation. All reached the vessels in safety, but few with + dry jackets. His majesty of Rock Boukir, too, went on board the frigate, + according to agreement, and probably, by this mark of confidence, saved + his capital from the flames. If all stories be true, he little deserves + our clemency; and it is even said, that the different tribes held a grand + palaver at this place, for the division of the spoil of the Mary Carver. + </p> + <p> + We set sail immediately. + </p> + <p> + 12.—Anchored at half past five P.M., off Little Berebee. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. + </h2> + <p> + Palaver at Little Berebee—Death of the Interpreter and King Ben + Cracko, and burning of the Town—Battle with the Natives, and + Conflagration of several Towns—Turkey Buzzards—A Love-Letter—Moral + Reflections—Treaty of Grand Berebee—Prince Jumbo and his + Father—Native system of Expresses—Curiosity of the Natives. + </p> + <p> + <i>December</i> 13.—At nine A.M., the boats of the squadron repaired + to the flag-ship, where they were formed in line, and then pulled towards + the shore abreast. The landing-place is tolerably good, but contracted. + Four or five boats might easily approach it together; but when most of the + thirteen attempted it at once, so narrow was the space, that one or two of + them filled. They were hauled up, however, and secured. Our force, on + being disembarked, was stationed in line, opposite the town of Little + Berebee, and the wood in its immediate vicinity. Many of the officers went + up to the Palaver House, a temporary shed erected for the occasion, about + fifty yards from the town-gate. King Ben Cracko now making his appearance, + with five or six headmen or kings of the neighboring tribes, the palaver + began. + </p> + <p> + The interpreter, on this occasion, was well known to have been, in his own + person, a leading character in the act of piracy and murder, which it was + the object of the palaver to investigate. He had therefore a difficult + part to act; one that required great nerve, and such a talent of throwing + a fair semblance over foul facts, as few men, civilized or savage, are + likely to possess. With the consciousness of guilt upon him, causing him + to startle at the first aspect of peril, it is singular that the man + should have had the temerity to trust himself in so trying a position. His + version of the Mary Carver affair was a very wretched piece of fiction. He + declared that Captain Farwell had killed two natives, and that old King + Cracko, since deceased, had punished the captain by death, in the exercise + of his legitimate authority. He denied that the tribe had participated in + Captain Farwell's murder, or in those of the mate and crew, or in the + robbery of the vessel; affirming that the schooner had gone ashore, and + that everything was lost. All this was a tissue of falsehood; it being + notorious that a large quantity of goods from the wreck, and portions of + the vessel itself, were distributed among the towns along the coast. It + was well known, moreover, that these people had boasted of having "caught" + (to use their own phrase), an American vessel, and that the neighboring + tribes had threatened to follow Ben Cracko's example. + </p> + <p> + Governor Roberts, who conducted the examination on our part, expressed to + the man his utter disbelief of the above statements. The Commodore, + likewise, stept hastily towards him, sternly warning him to utter no more + falsehoods. The interpreter, perceiving that the impression was against + him, and probably expecting to be instantly made prisoner, or put to + death, now lost the audacity that had hitherto sustained him. At this + moment, it is said, a gun was fired at our party, from the town; and, + simultaneously with the report, the interpreter sprang away like a deer. + There was a cry to stop him—two or three musket-bullets whistled + after the fugitive as he ran—but he had nearly reached the + town-gate, when his limbs, while strained to their utmost energy, suddenly + failed beneath him. A rifle-shot had struck him in the vertebra of the + neck, causing instantaneous death. Meanwhile, King Ben Cracko had made a + bolt to escape, but was seized by his long calico robe; which, however, + gave way, leaving him literally naked in the midst of his enemies. A shot + brought him to the ground; but he sprang to his feet, still struggling to + escape. He next received two bayonet wounds, but fought like a wild beast, + until two or three men flung themselves upon him, and held him down by + main force. Finding himself overpowered, he pretended to be dead, but was + securely bound, and taken to the beach. A lion of the African deserts + could not have shown a fiercer energy than this savage King; and those who + gazed at him, as he lay motionless on the sand, confessed that they had + never seen a frame of such masculine vigor as was here displayed. His + wounds proved mortal. + </p> + <p> + The melée had been as sudden as the explosion of gunpowder; it was wholly + unexpected, but perhaps not to be wondered at, where two parties, with + weapons in their hands, had met to discuss a question of robbery and + murder. When the firing commenced, about two hundred natives were on the + spot, or in the vicinity; they were now flying in all directions, some + along the beach, a few into the sea itself, but by far the greatest number + to the woods. Many shots were fired, notwithstanding the Commodore's + orders to refrain. We were now directed to break down the palisades, and + set fire to the town. A breach of twenty or thirty feet was soon made in + the wall, by severing the withes that bound together the upright planks. + Before this could be effected, another party crept through the small + holes, serving the purpose of gates, and penetrated to the centre of the + town, where, assembling around the great council-tree, they gave three + cheers. The houses were then set on fire, and, within fifteen minutes, + presented one mass of conflagration. The palisades likewise caught the + flames, and were consumed, leaving an open space of blackened and smoking + ruins, where, half an hour before, the sun had shone upon a town. + </p> + <p> + The natives did not remain idle spectators of the destruction of their + houses. Advancing to the edge of the woods, they discharged their muskets + at us, loaded not with Christian bullets, but with copper-slugs, probably + manufactured out of the spikes of the Mary Carver. A marine was struck in + the side by one of these missiles, which tumbled him over, but without + inflicting a serious wound. A party from our ship penetrated the woods + behind the town, where one of them fired at an object which he perceived + moving in the underbrush. Going up to the spot, it proved to be a very + aged man, apparently on the verge of a century, much emaciated, and too + feeble to crawl further in company with his flying towns-people. He was + unharmed by the shot, but evidently expected instant death, and held up + his hand in supplication. Our party placed the poor old patriarch in a + more sheltered spot, and left him there, after supplying him with food; an + act of humanity which must have seemed to him very singular, if not + absurd, in contrast with the mischief which we had wrought upon his home + and people. Meantime, the ships were disposed to have a share in the + fight, and opened a cannonade upon the woods, shattering the great + branches of the trees, and adding to the terror, if not to the loss, of + the enemy. Little Berebee being now a heap of ashes, we re-embarked, + taking with us an American flag, probably that of the Mary Carver, which + had been found in the town. We also made prizes of several canoes, one of + which was built for war, and capable of carrying forty men. The wounded + King Cracko, likewise, was taken on board the frigate, where, next + morning, he breathed his last; thus expiating the outrage in which, two + years before, he had been a principal actor. We afterwards understood that + the natives suffered a loss of eight killed and two wounded. + </p> + <p> + 15.—The season for palavers and diplomacy being now over, we landed + at seven o'clock this morning, ten or twelve miles below Berebee, in order + to measure out a further retribution to the natives. On approaching the + beach, we were fired upon from the bushes, but without damage, although + the enemy were sheltered within twenty yards of the water's edge. The + boat's crew first ashore, together with two or three marines, charged into + the shrubbery and drove off the assailants. All being disembarked, the + detachment was formed in line, and marched to the nearest town, which was + immediately attacked. Like the other native towns, it was protected by a + wall of high palisades, planted firmly in the soil, and bound together by + thongs of bamboo. Cutting a passage through these, we entered the place, + which contained perhaps a hundred houses, neatly built of wicker-work, and + having their high conical roofs thatched with palmetto-leaves. Such + edifices were in the highest degree combustible, and being set on fire, it + was worth while for a lover of the picturesque to watch the flames, as + they ran up the conical roofs, and meeting at the apex, whirled themselves + fiercely into the darkened air. + </p> + <p> + While this was going on, the war-bells, drums, and war-horns of the + natives were continually sounding; and flocks of vultures (perhaps a more + accurate ornithologist might call them turkey-buzzards) appeared in the + sky, wheeling slowly and heavily over our heads. These ravenous birds + seemed to have a presentiment that there were deeds of valor to be done: + nor was it quite a comfortable idea, that some of them, ere nightfall, + might gratify their appetite at one's own personal expense. To confess the + truth, however, they were probably attracted by the scent of some + slaughtered bullocks; it being indifferent to a turkey-buzzard whether he + prey on a cow or a Christian. After destroying the first town, we marched + about a mile and a half up the beach, to attack a second. On our advance, + the marine drummer and fifer were ordered from the front of the column to + the rear, as being a position of less danger. They of course obeyed; but + the little drummer deeming it a reflection upon his courage, burst into + tears, and actually blubbered aloud as he beat the <i>pas de charge</i>. + It was a strange operation of manly spirit in a boyish stage of + development. + </p> + <p> + As we approached the second town, our boat-keepers, who watched the scene, + distinctly saw a party of thirty or forty natives lying behind a palisade, + with their guns pointed at our advanced guard. Unconscious that the enemy + were so near, we halted for an instant, about forty yards from the town, + and then advanced at a run. This so disconcerted the defenders that they + fled, after firing only a few shots, none of which took effect. In fact, + the natives proved themselves but miserable marksmen. They can seldom hit + an object in motion, although, if a man stand still, they sometimes manage + to put a copper-slug into his body, by taking aim a long time. After + firing, the savage runs a long distance before he ventures to load. Had + their skill or their hardihood been greater, we must have suffered + severely; for the woods extended nearly to the water's edge, and exposed + us, during the whole day, to the fire of a sheltered and invisible enemy. + </p> + <p> + After the storm and conflagration of the second town, we took a brief + rest, and then proceeded to capture and burn another, situated about a + mile to the northward. This accomplished, we judged it to be dinner-time. + Indeed, we had done work enough to ensure an appetite; and history does + not make mention, so far as I am aware, of such destruction of cities so + expeditiously effected. Having emptied our baskets, we advanced about + three miles along the beach—still with the slugs of the enemy + whistling in our ears—and gave to the devouring element another + town. Man is perhaps never happier than when his native destructiveness + can be freely exercised, and with the benevolent complacency of performing + a good action, instead of the remorse of perpetrating a bad one. It unites + the charms of sin and virtue. Thus, in all probability, few of us had ever + spent a day of higher enjoyment than this, when we roamed about, with a + musket in one hand and a torch in the other, devastating what had hitherto + been the homes of a people. + </p> + <p> + One of the sweetest spots that I have seen in Africa, was a little hamlet + of three houses, standing apart from the four large towns above-mentioned, + and surrounded by an impervious hedge of thorn-bushes, with two palisaded + entrances. Forcing our way through one of these narrow portals, we beheld + a grassy area of about fifty yards across, overshadowed by a tree of very + dense foliage, which had its massive roots in the centre, and spread its + great protecting branches over the whole enclosure. The three dwellings + were of the same sort of basket-work as those already described, but + particularly neat, and giving a pleasant impression of the domestic life + of their inhabitants. This small, secluded hamlet had probably been the + residence of one family, a patriarch, perhaps, with his descendants to the + third or fourth generation—who, beneath that shadowy tree, must have + enjoyed all the happiness of which uncultivated man is susceptible. Nor + would it be too great a stretch of liberality, to suppose that the green + hedge of impervious thorns had kept out the vices of their race, and that + the little area within was a sphere where all the virtues of the native + African had been put in daily practice. These three dwellings, and the + verdant wall around them, and the great tree that brooded over the whole, + might unquestionably have been spared, with safety to our consciences. But + when man takes upon himself the office of an avenger by the sword, he is + not to be perplexed with such little scrupulosities, as whether one + individual or family be less guilty than the rest. Providence, it is to be + presumed, will find some method of setting such matters right. In fine, + when the negro patriarch's strong sable sons supported their decrepit sire + homeward, with their wives, "black, but comely," bearing the glistening, + satin-skinned babies on their backs, and their other little ebony + responsibilities trudging in the rear, there must have been a dismal wail; + for there was the ancestral tree, its foliage shrivelled with fire, + stretching out its desolate arms over the ashes of the three wicker + dwellings. + </p> + <p> + The business of the day was over. Besides short excursions, and charges + into the bush, the men had marched and countermarched at least twelve + miles upon the beach, with the surf sometimes rolling far beyond our + track. Some hundreds of slugs had been fired at us; and, on our part, we + had blazed away at every native who had ventured to show his face; but the + amount of casualties, after such a day of battle, reminds one of the + bloodless victories and defeats of an Italian army, during the middle + ages. In a word, we had but two men wounded; and whether any of the enemy + were killed or no, it is impossible to say. At all events, we slew a + number of neat cattle, eight or nine of which were sent on board the + ships, where they answered a much better purpose than as many human + carcasses. The other spoil consisted of several canoes, together with + numerous household utensils—which we shall bring home as trophies + and curiosities. There was also a chain cable, and many other articles + belonging to the Mary Carver, and a pocket-book, containing a letter + addressed to Captain Robert McFarland. The purport of the epistle is not a + matter of public interest; but it was written in a lady's delicate hand, + and was probably warm with affection; and little did the fair writer dream + that her missive would find its way into an African hut, where it was + probably regarded as a piece of witchcraft. + </p> + <p> + Thus ended the warfare of Little Berebee. The degree of retribution meted + out had by no means exceeded what the original outrage demanded; and the + mode of it was sanctioned by the customs of the African people. According + to their unwritten laws, if individuals of a tribe commit a crime against + another tribe or nation, the criminal must either be delivered up, or + punished at home, or the tribe itself becomes responsible for their guilt. + An example was of peremptory necessity; and the American vessels trading + on the coast will long experience a good effect from this day's battle and + destruction. The story will be remembered in the black man's traditions, + and will have its due weight in many a palaver. Nevertheless, though the + burning of villages be a very pretty pastime, yet it leaves us in a + moralizing mood, as most pleasures are apt to do; and one would fain hope + that civilized man, in his controversies with the barbarian, will at + length cease to descend to the barbarian level, and may adopt some other + method of proving his superiority, than by his greater power to inflict + suffering. For myself personally, the "good old way" suits me tolerably + enough; but I am disinterestedly anxious that posterity should find a + better. + </p> + <p> + 16.—We sailed at day-light for Grand Berebee. Nearing the point on + which it is situated, the ships hoisted white flags at the fore, in token + of amity. A message was sent on shore to the King, who came off in a large + canoe, and set his hand to a treaty, promising to keep good faith with + American vessels. He likewise made himself responsible for the good + conduct of the other tribes in the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + On board the Macedonian, there were five prisoners, who had been taken two + months ago, by the brig Porpoise. One was the eldest son of this King, and + the others belonged to his tribe. The meeting between the King and prince + was very affecting, and fully proved that nature has not left these wild + people destitute of warmth and tenderness of heart. They threw themselves + into each other's arms, wept, laughed, and danced for joy. To the King, + his son was like one risen from the dead; he had given him up for lost, + supposing that the young man had been executed. The prisoners were each + presented with a new frock and trowsers, besides tobacco, handkerchiefs, + and other suitable gifts. The prince received a lieutenant's old uniform + coat; and when they got into their canoe, it was amusing to see how + awkwardly he paddled, in this outlandish trim. He made two or three + attempts to get the coat off, but without success. One of his companions + then offered his assistance; but as he took the prince by the collar, + instead of the sleeve, it was found impracticable to rid him of the + garment. The more he pulled, the less it would come off; and the last we + saw of Prince Jumbo, he was holding up his skirts in one hand, and + paddling with the other. There will be grand rejoicings to-night, on the + return of the prisoners. All will be dancing and jollity; plays will be + performed; the villages will re-echo with the report of fire-arms and the + clamor of drums; and the whole population will hold a feast of bullocks. + </p> + <p> + 20.—Anchored at Cape Palmas. The natives here were alarmed at the + return of the three ships; and many of them carried away their moveables + into the woods. News of the destruction of the towns below had reached + them several days since. They have a simple, but very effective system of + expresses. When information of great interest is to be conveyed from tribe + to tribe, one of their swiftest runners is despatched, who makes what + speed he can, and, when tired, entrusts his message to another. Thus it is + speeded on, without a moment's delay. Should the runner encounter a river + in his course, he shouts his news across; it is caught up on the other + side, and immediately sent forward. In this manner, intelligence finds its + way along the coast with marvellous celerity. + </p> + <p> + 23.—We sailed two days ago. Yesterday, there came off from the + shore, some six or eight miles, a couple of canoes, paddled by six men + each, who exerted themselves to the utmost to overtake us. They had + nothing to sell; and their only object seemed to be, to obtain the + particulars of the fight and conflagration at Little Berebee, a hundred + and fifty miles below. + </p> + <p> + 25.—Anchored at Monrovia, and landed Governor Roberts, who, with Dr. + Johnson, had been a passenger from Cape Palmas. + </p> + <p> + 28.—Sailed for Porto Praya, with the intention of visiting Madeira, + before returning to the coast. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. + </h2> + <p> + Madeira—Aspect of the Island—Annual races—"Hail + Columbia!"—Ladies, Cavaliers, and Peasants—Dissertation upon + Wines—The Clerks of Funchal—Decay of the Wine-Trade—Cultivation + of Pine-Trees—A Night in the Streets—Beautiful Church—A + Sunday-evening Party—Currency of Madeira. + </p> + <p> + <i>January</i> 19, 1844.—We made Madeira yesterday, but, the weather + being thick and squally, stood off and on until to-day. + </p> + <p> + 20. Our ship rides gently at her anchor. The Loo rock rises fifty feet + perpendicular from the water, at so short a distance, that we can hear the + drum beat tattoo in the small, inaccessible castle, on its summit. This + rock is the outpost of the city of Funchal. The city stretches along the + narrow strip of level ground, near the shore, with vine-clad hills rising + steeply behind. On the slopes of these eminences are many large houses, + surrounded with splendid gardens, and occupied by wealthy inhabitants, + chiefly Englishmen, who have retired upon their fortunes, or are still + engaged in business. On a height to the left, stands a castle of + considerable size, in good repair. High up among the hills, in bold + relief, is seen the church of Our Lady of the Mount, with its white walls + and two towers. The hills are rugged, steep, and furrowed with deep + ravines, along which, after the heavy rains of winter, the mountain + torrents dash headlong to the sea. + </p> + <p> + My remarks on Madeira will be thrown together without the regularity of a + daily journal; for our visit to the island proves so delightful, that it + seems better worth the while to enjoy, than to describe it. + </p> + <p> + The annual races are well attended. During their continuance, throngs of + passengers, on foot, on horseback, and in palanquins, are continually + proceeding to the course, a little more than a mile and a half from town. + The road thither constantly ascends, until you find yourself several + hundred feet above the sea, with an extensive prospect beneath and around. + A tolerable space for the track is here afforded by an oblong plain, + seven-eighths of a mile in length. Near the judges' stand was a large + collection of persons of all classes, ladies, dandies, peasants, and + jockeys. Here, too, were booths for the sale of eatables and drinkables, + and a band of music to enliven the scene. + </p> + <p> + These musicians saw fit to honor us in a very particular manner. They had + all agreed to ship on board our vessel; and, with a view to please their + new masters, when three or four of our officers rode into the course, they + played "Hail Columbia." We took off our caps in acknowledgment, and + thought it all very fine. Directly afterwards, two other officers rode in, + and were likewise saluted with "Hail Columbia!" Anon, two or three of us + dismounted and strolled about among the people, thinking nothing of the + band, until we were reminded of their proximity by the old tune again. In + short, every motion on our part, however innocent and unpretending, caused + the hills of Madeira to resound with the echoes of our national air. + Finding that our position assumed a cast of the ridiculous, we gave the + leader to understand, that, if the tune were played again, the band's + first experience of maritime life should be a flogging at the gangway. The + hint was sufficient; not only did we hear no more of "Hail Columbia," but + none of the musicians ever came near the ship. + </p> + <p> + With few exceptions the running was wretched. One or two of the + match-races (which were ten in number, all single heats, of a mile each) + were well contested. The first was run by two ponies; a fat black one with + a chubby boy on his back, and a red, which, as well as his rider, was in + better racing condition. The black was beaten out of sight. The second + race was by two other ponies, one of which took the lead, and evidently + had the heels of his antagonist. Suddenly, however, he bolted, and leaped + the wall, leaving the track to be trotted over by the slower colt. Two + grey horses succeeded, and made pretty running; but their riders, instead + of attending to business, joined hands, and rode a quarter of a mile in + this amiable attitude. Rather than antagonists, one would have taken them + for twin brethren, like two other famous horsemen, Castor and Pollux. To + the ladies this mode of racing appeared delightful; but the remarks of our + party, consisting of several English and American officers and gentlemen, + were anything but complimentary. The last quarter of this heat was well + run, one of the horses winning apparently by a neck. The judge, however, a + Portuguese, decided that it was a dead heat. + </p> + <p> + At one extremity of the course, the hill rises abruptly; and here were + hundreds of persons of both sexes, in an excellent position to see the + running, and to impart a pretty effect to the scene. A large number of + peasantry were present, dressed in their peculiar costume, and taking + great interest in the whole matter. Both men and women wear a little blue + cap lined with scarlet, so small that one wonders how it sticks on the + head. In shape it is like an inverted funnel, running up to a sharp point. + The women have short, full dresses, with capes of a dark blue, trimmed + with a lighter blue, or of scarlet with blue trimming. These colors form a + sectional distinction; the girls of the north side of the island wearing + the scarlet capes, and those of the south side, the blue. In the intervals + of the races, ladies and gentlemen cantered round the course, and some of + them raced with their friends. Three Scottish ladies, with more youth than + beauty, and dressed in their plaids, made themselves conspicuous by their + bold riding, and quite carried off the palm of horsemanship from their + cavaliers. + </p> + <p> + A sketch of Madeira would be incomplete indeed, without some mention of + its wines. Three years ago, when it was more a matter of personal + interest, I visited this island, and gained considerable information on + the subject. Madeira then produced about thirty thousand pipes annually, + one third of which was consumed on the island, one-third distilled into + brandy, and the remainder exported. About one-third of the exportation + went to the United States, and the balance to other parts of the world. + The best wines are principally sent to our own country—that is to + say, the best exported—for very little of the first-rate wine goes + out of the island. The process of adulteration is as thoroughly understood + and practised here, as anywhere else. The wine sent to the United States + is a kind that has been heated, to give it an artificial age. The mode of + operation is simply to pour the wine into large vats, and submit it for + several days to a heat of about 110º. After this ordeal, the wine is not + much improved by keeping. + </p> + <p> + There are other modes of adulteration, into the mysteries of which I was + not admitted. One fact, communicated to me by an eminent wine-merchant, + may shake the faith of our connoisseurs as to the genuineness of their + favorite beverage. It is, that, from a single pipe of "mother wine," ten + pipes are manufactured by the help of inferior wine. This "mother wine" is + that which has been selected for its excellence, and is seldom exported + pure. The wines, when fresh from the vintage, are as various in their + flavor as our cider. It is by taste and <i>smell</i> that the various + kinds are selected, after which the poorer wines are distilled into + brandy, and the better are put in cases, and placed in store to ripen. The + liquor is from time to time racked off, and otherwise managed until ready + for exportation. It is <i>invariably</i> "treated" with brandy. French + brandy was formerly used, which being now prohibited, that of the island + is substituted, although of an inferior quality. + </p> + <p> + Besides the "Madeira wine," so famous among convivialists, there are + others of higher price and superior estimation. There is the "Sercial," + distinguished by a kind of Poppy taste. There is the Malmsey, or "Ladies' + wine," and the "Vina Tinta," or Madeira Claret, as it is sometimes called. + The latter is made of the black grapes, in a peculiar manner. After being + pressed, the skins of the grapes are placed in a vat, where the juice is + poured upon them and suffered to stand several days, until it has taken + the hue required. The taste of this wine is between those of Port and + Claret. There is a remarkable difference in the quality of the vintages of + the north and south sides of the island; the former not being a third part + so valuable as the latter. The poorer classes drink an inferior and acid + wine. + </p> + <p> + The vineyards are generally owned by rich proprietors, by whom they are + farmed out to the laborer, who pays half the produce when the wine has + been pressed; the government first taking its tenth. The grape-vines run + along frame-work, raised four or five feet from the ground, so as to allow + the cultivator room to weed the stalks beneath. The finest grapes are + those which grow upon the sunny side of a wall. At the season of vintage, + the grapes are placed in a kind of canoe, where they are first crushed by + men's feet (all wines, even the richest and purest, having this original + tincture of the human foot), and then pressed by a beam. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the very finest wines in the world are to be found collected at + the suppers given by the clerks, in the large mercantile houses of + Madeira. By an established custom, when one of their corps is about to + leave the island, he gives an entertainment, to which every guest + contributes a bottle or two of wine. It is a point of honor to produce the + best; and as the clerks know, quite as well as their principals, where the + best is to be found, and as the honor of their respective houses is to be + sustained, it may well be imagined that all the <i>bon-vivants</i> on + earth, were they to meet at one table, could hardly produce such a variety + of fine old Madeira, as the clerks of Funchal then sip and descant upon. + In no place do mercantile clerks hold so respectable a position in society + as here; owing to the tacit understanding between their principals and + themselves, that, at some future day, they are to be admitted as partners + in the houses. This is so general a rule, that the clerk seems to hold a + social position scarcely inferior to that of the head of the + establishment. They prove their claim to this high consideration, by the + zeal with which they improve their minds and cultivate their manners, in + order to fill creditably the places to which they confidently aspire. + </p> + <p> + At my second visit to Madeira, I find the wine trade at a very low ebb. + The demand from America, owing to temperance, the tariff, and partly to an + increased taste for Spanish, French, and German wines, is extremely small. + Not a cargo has been shipped thither for three years. The construction + given to the tariff, by the Secretary of the Treasury, will infuse new + life into the trade. + </p> + <p> + The hills around the city of Funchal are covered with vineyards, as far up + as the grape will grow; then come the fields of vegetables; and the + plantations of pine for the supply of the city. The island took its name + from the great quantity of wood which overshadowed it, at its first + discovery. This being long ago exhausted, considerable attention is paid + to the cultivation of the pine-tree, which produces the most profitable + kind of wood. In twelve or thirteen years, it is fit for the market, and + commands a handsome price. Far up the mountains, we saw one plantation, in + which fifty or sixty acres had been covered with pines, within a few + years; some of the infant trees being only an inch high. Thus in the + course of a morning's ride, we ascend from the region of the laughing and + luxuriant vine, into that of the stately and sombre pine; it is like being + transported by enchantment from the genial clime of Madeira into the + rugged severity of a New England forest. + </p> + <p> + In going up the mountain, the traveller encounters many peasants, both men + and women, with bundles of weeds for horses, and sticks for fire-wood, + which are carried upon the head. Thus laden, they walk several miles, and + perhaps sell their burthens for ten or twelve cents apiece. Articles + cannot easily be conveyed in any other manner, down the steep declivities + of the hills. In the city, burthens are drawn by oxen, on little drags, + which glide easily over the smooth, round pavements. The driver carries in + his hand a long mop without a handle, or what a sailor would term a "wet + swab." If any difficulty occur in drawing the load, this moist mop is + thrown before the drag, which readily glides over it. + </p> + <p> + The beggars of Funchal are numerous and importunate, and many of them + wretched enough, as, in one instance, I had occasion to witness. With a + friend, I had quitted a ball at two o'clock in the morning. The porter of + our hotel, not expecting us at so late an hour, had retired; and, as all + the family slept in the back part of the house, we were unable to awaken + them by our long and furious knocking. Several Englishmen occupied the + front apartments, but scorned to give themselves any trouble about the + matter, except to breathe a slumberous execration against the disturbers + of their sleep. On the other hand, our anathemas were louder, and quite as + bitter upon these inhospitable inmates. Finally, after half an hour's + vigorous but ineffectual assault upon the portal, we retreated in despair, + and betook ourselves to walk the streets. The night was beautifully clear, + but too cool for the enervated frame of an African voyager. We were tired + with dancing, and occasionally sat down; but the door-steps were all of + stone, and, though we buttoned our coats closely, it was impossible to + remain long inactive. + </p> + <p> + Near morning, we approached the door of the Cathedral, and were about to + seat ourselves, when we perceived a person crouching on the spot, and + apparently asleep. The slumber was not sound; for when we spoke, a young + girl, a mere rose-bud of a woman, about fourteen years of age, arose and + answered. She was very thinly clad; and, with her whole frame shivering, + the poor thing assumed an airy and mirthful deportment, to attract us. It + was grievous to imagine how many nights like this the unhappy girl was + doomed to pass, and that all her nights were such, unless when vice and + degradation procured her a temporary shelter. Ever since that hour, when I + picture the pleasant island of Madeira, with its sunshine, and its + vineyards, and its jovial inhabitants, the shadow of this miserable child + glides through the scene. + </p> + <p> + One of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever seen, is the + English church, just outside of the city of Funchal. The edifice has no + steeple or bells, these being prohibited by the treaty between Portugal + and Great Britain, which permits the English protestants to erect + churches. You approach it through neat gravel walks, lined with the most + brilliant flowers, and these in such magnificent profusion, that the + building may be said to stand in the midst of a great flower-garden. The + aspect is certainly more agreeable, if not more appropriate, than that of + the tombstones and little hillocks which usually surround the sacred + edifice; it is one method of rendering the way to Heaven a path of + flowers. On entering the church, we perceive a circular apartment, lighted + by a dome of stained glass. The finish of the interior is perfectly neat, + but simple. The organ is fine-toned, and was skilfully played. Pleasant it + was to see again a church full of well-dressed English—those Saxon + faces, nearest of kin to our own—and to hear once more the familiar + service, after being so long shut out from consecrated walls! + </p> + <p> + Sunday is not observed with much strictness, in Madeira. On the evening of + that day, I called at a friend's house, where thirty or forty persons, all + Portuguese, were collected, without invitation. Music, dancing, and cards, + were introduced for the entertainment of the guests. The elder portion sat + down to whist; and, in a corner of the large dancing room, one of the + gentlemen established a faro-bank, which attracted most of the company to + look on, or bet. So much more powerful were the cards than the ladies, + that it was found difficult to enlist gentlemen for a single cotillion. + After a while, dancing was abandoned, and cards ruled supreme. The married + ladies made bets as freely as the gentlemen; and several younger ones, + though more reserved, yet found courage to put down their small stakes. I + observed one sweet girl of sixteen, standing over the table, and watching + the game with intense interest. Methought the game within her bosom was + for a more serious stake than that upon the table, and better worth the + observer's notice. Who should win it?—her guardian angel? or the + gambling fiend? Alas, the latter! She bashfully drew a little purse from + her bosom, and put her stake down with the rest. + </p> + <p> + The currency of Madeira is principally composed of the old-fashioned + twenty cent pieces, called cruzados, which pass at the rate of five for a + dollar. Payments of thousands of dollars are made in this coin, which, not + being profitable to remit, circulates from hand to hand. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. + </h2> + <p> + Passage back to Liberia—Coffee Plantations—Dinner on Shore—Character + of Col. Hicks—Shells and Sentiment—Visit to the Council + Chamber—the New Georgia Representative—a Slave-Ship—Expedition + up the St. Paul's—Sugar Manufactory—Maumee's beautiful + Grand-Daughter—the Sleepy Disease—the Mangrove-Tree. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <i>February</i> 29.—We are on our return to Liberia. The ship is destined to +cruise along the whole coast, from Cape Mesurado to the river Gaboon, +touching at all important and interesting points. It will present the best +opportunity yet enjoyed, to observe whatever things worthy of notice the +country can present. Hourly, as we approach the coast, we perceive the +difference in temperature. It is a grateful change, that of winter to +summer. Last night was as mild as a summer evening at home. I remained on +the forecastle till midnight, enjoying the moonlight, the soft air, and +the cheerful song of a cricket, which had been, in some manner, brought on +board at Porto Praya, a week ago. He seems to be the merriest of the crew, +and now nightly pipes to the forecastle men. +</pre> + <p> + Our ship slides along almost imperceptibly, yet gets over the sea + wonderfully well. She is a noble ship, stiff, fast, and dry. Her motion is + very easy, and her performance, whether in strong or light breezes, is + always excellent. Her grating-deck has been taken off, as it made her a + little top-heavy and uneasy, and detracted from her speed; and she is + infinitely better for the change. + </p> + <p> + <i>March</i> 2.—Anchored at Monrovia, in less than eight days from + Porto Praya, although the winds were light, most of the time. Several of + our Kroomen, who left us, two months ago, completely dressed in + sailor-rig, came on board with only a hat and a handkerchief, and + forthwith proceeded to haul upon the ropes, as before. + </p> + <p> + 6.—I have been walking through Judge Benedict's coffee-plantation, + from the condition of which I find little encouragement to persons + disposed to engage in the business. The trees are certainly not so + thrifty, and are apparently less in number than they were three years ago. + There is little or no weeding done; consequently, the plantation is + overgrown with grass and bushes, and looks as if the forest might, at no + distant day, reclaim its children. All the trees have been transplanted + from the neighboring woods, and, it is said, do not flourish so well as + those raised from seed, in nurseries. General Lewis has several thousand + coffee-plants growing from the seed, and, in two or three years, will have + tested the comparative advantages of this plan. + </p> + <p> + I dined ashore to-day. At the table were a Dutchman, a Dane, four American + officers, and Colonel Hicks. All, except myself, were good talkers, and + composed a delightful dinnerparty. Colonel Hicks, of whom I have before + spoken in this Journal, is one of the most shrewd, active and agreeable + men in the colony. Once a slave in Kentucky, and afterwards in + New-Orleans, he is now a commission-merchant in Monrovia, doing a business + worth four or five thousand dollars per annum. Writing an elegant hand, he + uses this accomplishment to the best advantage by inditing letters, on all + occasions, to those who can give him business. If a French vessel shows + her flag in the harbor, the Colonel's Krooman takes a letter to the + master, written in his native language. If an American man-of-war, he + writes in English, offering his services, and naming some person as his + intimate friend, who will probably be known on board. Then he is so + hospitable, and his house always so neat, and his table so good—his + lady, moreover, is such a friendly, pleasant-tempered person, and so + good-looking, into the bargain—that it is really a fortunate day for + the stranger in Liberia, when he makes the acquaintance of Colonel and + Mrs. Hicks. Every day, after the business of the morning is concluded, the + Colonel dresses for dinner, which appears upon the table at three o'clock. + He presides with genuine elegance and taste; his stories are good, and his + quotations amusing. To be sure, he occasionally commits little mistakes, + such, for instance, as speaking of America as his Alma Mater; but, on the + whole, even without any allowance for a defective education, he appears + wonderfully well. One circumstance is too indicative of strong sense, as + well as good taste, not to be mentioned;—he is not ashamed of his + color, but speaks of it without constraint, and without effort. Most + colored men avoid alluding to their hue, thus betraying a morbid + sensibility upon the point, as if it were a disgraceful and afflicting + dispensation. Altogether the Colonel and his lady make many friends, and + are as apparently happy, and as truly respectable as any couple here or + elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + Coming to the beach, we found no boat; and nearly half an hour passed + before one arrived to take us on board. In the interim, I strolled along + the shore, picking up the small shells, which the waves had thrown in + abundance upon the sand. In the eye of a conchologist, they would have + been of little value, as all of them were common, and none possessed more + than a single valve. But the purple blush of the interior pleased me; and + what is more, I was gathering these trifles for a lady whom I have never + seen, yet whom I trust that I may venture to count among my friends. I + know that she will be pleased with the poor offering and its giver; for + each of these shells is linked with a thought that flew over the sea—from + the sunset shore of Africa to a fireside in New England—and returned + thence to the wanderer, bringing grateful fancies, reminiscences, and + hopes. It was a smiling half-hour. + </p> + <p> + 9.—Ashore, and in the council-chamber. It is a spacious apartment on + the second floor of the stone building recently erected for the purposes + of a Legislative Hall and Court-House. The Governor presided, sitting in a + high backed rocking-chair; which, by the by, the natives call a + "Missionary Horse." The colonial Secretary acted as chief-clerk, and + Doctor Prout, in gold-bowed spectacles, as his assistant. An ungainly lad, + with big feet and striped hose, seemed to engross in his own person the + offices of door-keeper, sergeant-at-arms, and page. The council proper + consisted of ten members, who sat at separate desks, arranged + semi-circularly in front of the Governor. The spectators occupied rude + benches in the rear of the members. + </p> + <p> + The question before the council related to the building of a market-house + in Monrovia, at the expense of the commonwealth, as proposed in one of the + sections of a bill to form a city government. This being a matter of some + interest, each member expressed his views, but with such brevity that the + whole debate occupied scarcely forty minutes, although several individuals + spoke twice. This conciseness was less a virtue of choice than necessity, + being attributable chiefly to the fact, that the presiding officer set his + face against all vagaries of eloquence, and kept the speakers strictly to + the point. If one wandered in the least, he was instantly called to order, + and compelled to take his seat, upon the slightest deviation from the + rules of the house. One of the members was a wilder specimen of humanity + than even our legislative bodies at home have ever presented to an + admiring world. He was a re-captured African, representing New Georgia, an + uncouth figure of a man, who spoke very broken English, with great + earnestness, and much to the amusement of his brother counsellors and the + audience generally. I regret my inability to preserve either the matter or + the manner of so original an orator. + </p> + <p> + Here, as in the various other situations in which I have seen him placed, + Governor Roberts acquitted himself as a dignified, manly, and sensible + person. Deriving his appointment from the Society at home, he can act with + more independence, in an official capacity, than if indebted to the voices + of the members for his position. + </p> + <p> + 15.—At sea again, on our way to Gallenas. + </p> + <p> + 17.—Fell in with the English brig-of-war Ferret. Our captain went on + board, and was told that she had been engaged with a large slaver, four + days ago. Previous to the action, the slave-ship went to Gallenas, where + the Ferret's pinnace was at anchor. She ran alongside of the boat, with + three guns out on a side, and her waist full of musketeers—a + superiority of force in view of which the pinnace did not venture to + attack her; and the ship took in nine hundred or a thousand slaves, and + went off unmolested. At sea, she encountered the Ferret, and was fired + into repeatedly by that vessel, during the night, but succeeded in making + her escape. The slaver was under Portuguese colors, and is said to have + been formerly the American ship Crawford, now owned by Spaniards, and + bearing a Spanish name. + </p> + <p> + 18.—Again came to an anchor at Monrovia. + </p> + <p> + 19.—Just returned from an excursion up the St. Paul's river. Three + officers, in company with Dr. Lugenbeel, left Monrovia seasonably in the + forenoon, in one of our boats, rowed—and well rowed too—by + five Kroomen. Near the village, we passed from the Mesurado river through + Stockton's creek, seven or eight miles, to the St. Paul's. Our first + landing was at the public farm, where the manufacture of sugar was going + on. Twelve Kroomen (whose power, in this country, is applied to as great a + variety of purposes as those of steam and water in our own) were turning + the mill by two long levers, walking round and round in one interminable + circle, like the horse in an old-fashioned bark-mill. Three or four boys + fed the mill with cane, which about a score of colonists were employed in + cutting and bringing in by small armsfull, from a field in the immediate + vicinity. The overseer, Mr. Moore, and a few other persons, were occupied + in boiling the cane-juice. Mr. Moore informed me that sixteen Kroomen were + employed on the premises, at three dollars per month, and twenty-five + colonists at sixty-two and a half cents a day, besides their food. This + year, they make about thirty barrels of sugar (which will cost at least + twenty-five cents per pound), and two pipes of molasses. The cane, now in + process of manufacture, is very small and unprofitable, all of the larger + kind having been already ground. The sugar-house is a wretched building, + with a thatched roof, and the sides roughly boarded like a cow-shed. There + were four boilers in full bubble, and ten thousand bees in full buzz about + the establishment; the insects bidding fair to hoard up more profit than + the sugar-manufacturers. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Moore had accompanied the Niger expedition in the capacity of farmer, + and resided nine or ten months on the model farm, without undergoing the + prevalent sickness. While almost every white man perished, the colored + colonists all survived. A large amount of property was left in the charge + of Mr. Moore, and he returned with the expedition to England. As + superintendent of the public farm, he now receives from the Colonization + Society a salary of three hundred dollars. + </p> + <p> + Leaving the farm, we soon entered the St. Paul's, a noble river, which + comes rolling onward from the yet unexplored interior of the country. + Following its course a mile or more towards the sea, we arrived at + Maumee's Town, a village of thirty or forty huts, where a considerable + slave-trade was carried on, until broken up by the colonists under + Governor Ashman. Old Maumee still resides here, and cherishes a bitter + hatred against the Liberians, and all Americans and Englishmen, as having + caused the ruin of her profitable commerce. The old hag was not now at + home, having obeyed the custom of the country by retiring to a more + secluded spot, for the purpose of nursing a sick granddaughter. The + persons who remained were quite uninteresting. The only noticeable group + was composed of two women, one lying flat on her face, with her head in + the other's lap. Her hair being combed out as straight as the tenacity of + its curls would allow, her friend was arranging it in that fine braid with + which it is customary to cover the head. + </p> + <p> + Having procured a guide, we crossed the river, and, at the mouth of + Logan's creek, exchanged our boat for a large canoe, in which we followed + the windings of the deep and narrow inlet for nearly two miles. This + brought us to a village of six huts. Without ceremony, we entered the + dwelling of the old Queen (who was busied about her household affairs), + and looked around for her grand-daughter, to see whom was the principal + object of our excursion. On my former visit to Maumee's town, four or five + months ago, this girl excited a great deal of admiration by her beauty and + charming simplicity. She was then thirteen or fourteen years of age, a + bright mulatto, with large and soft black eyes, and the most brilliantly + white teeth in the world. Her figure, though small, is perfectly + symmetrical. She is the darling of the old Queen, whose affections exhaust + themselves upon her with all the passionate fire of her temperament—and + the more unreservedly, because the girl's own mother is dead. + </p> + <p> + We entered the hut, as I have said, without ceremony, and looked about us + for the beautiful grand-daughter. But, on beholding the object of our + search, a kind of remorse or dread came over us, such as often affects + those who intrude upon the awfulness of slumber. The girl lay asleep in + the adjoining apartment on a mat that was spread over the hard ground, and + with no pillow beneath her cheek. One arm was by her side—the other + above her head—and she slept so quietly, and drew such imperceptible + breath, that I scarcely thought her alive. With some little difficulty she + was roused, and awoke with a frightened cry—a strange and broken + murmur—as if she were looking dimly out of her sleep, and knew not + whether our figures were real, or only the phantasies of a dream. Her eyes + were wild and glassy, and she seemed to be in pain. While awake, there was + a nervous twitching about her mouth and in her fingers; but, being again + extended on the mat, and left to herself, these symptoms of disquietude + passed away; and she almost immediately sank again into the deep and heavy + sleep, in which we found her. As her eyes gradually closed their lids, the + sunbeams, struggling through the small crevices between the reeds of the + hut, glimmered down about her head. Perhaps it was only the nervous motion + of her fingers; but it seemed as if she were trying to catch the golden + rays of the sun and make playthings of them—or else to draw them + into her soul, and illuminate the slumber that looked so misty and dark to + us. + </p> + <p> + This poor, doomed girl had been suffering—no, not suffering, for, + except when forcibly aroused, there appears to be no uneasiness—but + she had been lingering two months in a disease peculiar to Africa. It is + called the "sleepy disease," and is considered incurable. The persons + attacked by it are those who take little exercise, and live principally on + vegetables, particularly cassady and rice. Some ascribe it altogether to + the cassady, which is supposed to be strongly narcotic. Not improbably, + the climate has much influence, the disease being most prevalent in low + and marshy situations. Irresistible drowsiness continually weighs down the + patient, who can be kept awake only for the few moments needful to take a + little food. When this lethargy has lasted three or four months, death + comes—with a tread that the patient cannot hear, and makes the + slumber but a little more sound. + </p> + <p> + I found the aspect of Maumee's beautiful grand-daughter inconceivably + affecting. It was strange to behold her so quietly involved in sleep—from + which it might be supposed she would awake so full of youthful life—and + yet to know that this was no refreshing slumber, but a spell in which she + was fading away from the eyes that loved her. Whatever might chance, be it + grief or joy, the effect would be the same. Whoever should shake her by + the arm—whether the accents of a friend fell feebly on her ear, or + those of strangers, like ourselves, the only response would be that + troubled cry, as of a spirit that hovered on the confines of both worlds, + and could have sympathy with neither. And yet, withal, it seemed so easy + to cry to her—"Awake! Enjoy your life! Cast off this noon-tide + slumber!" But only the peal of the last trumpet will summon her out of + that mysterious sleep. + </p> + <p> + On our return, we passed under the branches of the mangrove tree, and + pulled some of the long fruit or seed. This singular seed is about fifteen + or sixteen inches long, and in its greatest diameter not more than an + inch. It is round, heavy, and pointed at both ends. When ripe, it detaches + itself from a sort of acorn, to which the smaller end has been firmly + joined, and falls with sufficient force to implant itself deeply in the + mud. After a few days, it begins to shoot, and soon becomes a tall + mangrove. This tree has many strings to its bow; for, while the seed is + growing, as here described, the branches send down slender and cord-like + shoots, perhaps thirty feet long, and less than an inch in thickness. + These strike into the mud, and aid in giving sustenance to the tree. Thus + the Mangrove presents the appearance of a large tree, supported by + hundreds of lesser trunks, standing so thickly together as to be + impassable for even small animals. Therein it differs from the tree + described by Milton, to which it otherwise seems to bear an analogy:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "In the ground + The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow + About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade, + High overarched, and echoing walks between!" +</pre> + <p> + Returning to the ship, we found it lighted up, and the Theatre about to + open. The scenery has been much improved, since the last performance, and + the actors are more perfect in their parts. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. + </h2> + <p> + The Theatre—Tribute to Governor Buchanan—Arrival at Settra + Kroo—Jack Purser—The Mission-School—Cleanliness of the + Natives—Uses of the Palm-Tree—Native Money—Mrs. Sawyer—Influence + of her Character on the Natives—Characteristics of English + Merchant-Captains—Trade of England with the African Coast. + </p> + <p> + <i>March</i> 21.—The scenery of the theatre having been damaged by + the rain, the other night, it is spread out to dry, and will be + re-painted. Much interest is felt in the Drama, and the exertions of the + performers are rewarded with full houses nightly. Some of the actors have + evidently trodden other boards than these. Among two hundred men, many of + whom have led wild and dissipated lives on shore, it is easy to suppose + that enough are familiar with the theatre in front of the curtain, and a + few behind it. Thus a tolerable company has been collected, needing only a + few female recruits to render it perfect. The dresses and scenery were + procured by general subscription, and are showy as well as appropriate; + and many a manager might deem himself fortunate to engage the whole corps, + with wardrobe and decorations included, for a summer campaign. On board + ship, our buskined heroes are of more importance than Booth, Forrest, or + Macready ashore, as affording amusement to a set of fellows who would have + precious little of it, without this resource. + </p> + <p> + 22.—At 3 P.M. up anchor for the leeward, and stand off with a good + breeze. + </p> + <p> + 23.—We have passed Bassa Cove, merely sending in some letters by a + Kroo-canoe, which boarded us. A considerable settlement of colonists is + established here. Many of their houses are visible along the shore, while + two smaller villages, in the immediate vicinity, are concealed by the + woods. The bar at this place has a bad reputation; several boats having + been swamped in passing it. In 1836, ten persons, including a midshipman + and purser's clerk, were drowned here, by the capsizing of a boat + belonging to the frigate Potomac. + </p> + <p> + At Bassa Cove, in 1842, died Thomas Buchanan, Governor of Liberia; a man + who has identified his name with the existence of the colony, by his + successful exertions to promote its strength and respectability. No other + person had done so much to impress the natives with awe and respect for + the colonists, and to give Liberia an independent position in the eyes of + foreigners. A year before his death, it was my good fortune to be a + shipmate of this great and excellent man; for great and excellent I do not + hesitate to call him, although the remoteness of his sphere of action has + left his name comparatively obscure. Like all who came in contact with + him, I was deeply impressed with his pure, high, determined, and chivalric + character. In a grove, near the village, he selected a spot for his + burial; and there rest the remains of a finished gentleman, an + accomplished scholar, a fearless soldier, a wise legislator, an ardent + philanthropist, and a sincere Christian. So long as Liberia shall have a + history, Governor Buchanan will be remembered in it. Honor to his ashes! + </p> + <p> + 24.—Sunday. No service to-day, in consequence of a heavy rain, which + commenced at nine in the morning, and continued till one in the afternoon. + In the evening, four or five miles from land, we were boarded by the mate + of an English brig, at anchor off Grand Botton. He seemed a well-disposed, + off-hand man, telling us, among other things, that he had run away from + the U.S. schooner Enterprise, in the Pacific ocean, four years ago. This + was rather a hazardous communication to make, on the deck of a national + vessel; and it so happened that one of our lieutenants was in the + Enterprise, at the time referred to, and remembered the circumstance and + the man. However, as he had put confidence in us, we did not molest him. + </p> + <p> + 25.—Anchored at Settra Kroo. + </p> + <p> + 26.—Ashore, and dined upon roasted oysters, in a native hut. A + large, shrewd Krooman, Jack Purser by name, seems to be the most important + private individual here. He is the great tradesman of the place, and very + accommodating in his mode of transacting business. We saw a specimen of + his dealings with the natives. Being told that we wanted wood, he sent + intelligence through the town; and, directly, many women and girls flocked + to his house, each with a bundle of wood upon her head, which she + deposited near the door. After twenty or thirty loads had been brought, + Jack Purser came forth with a bundle of tobacco under his arm, and threw + the price of each load upon the wood, one, two, or three leaves of + tobacco, according to its size. There was no haggling, as is invariably + the case when a white man is the customer, but all assented to the + decision of the trademan. Jack Purser is a man of fortune, if the number + of his wives, twenty-nine, be a criterion. + </p> + <p> + I saw a native doctor making his "greegree," or charm, for rain. There + were two large mortars, with leaves, bark, and roots, in each, and a long + vine extending from one to the other. Into these mortars he poured water, + until it ran over. + </p> + <p> + 27.—Dined on shore, at Mrs. Sawyer's. The repast consisted of bits + of mutton in palm-butter, mutton roasted, rice, palm-cabbage, chicken, and + papaw, with coffee, but no wine. There are thirty children in the + Mission-school, mostly boys, who show considerable aptitude for learning. + It is an obstacle in the way of educating girls, that many of them are + betrothed before entering school, and, just when their progress begins to + be satisfactory, their husbands claim them and take them away. Mr. Wilson + adopted the plan of taking the pair of betrothed ones; and, after pursuing + their studies in unison (doubtless including the conjugation of the verb, + to love), they left the school together. + </p> + <p> + One of the scholars, a little fellow called Robert Soutter, took a strange + fancy to me, and followed everywhere at my heels, expressing a strong wish + to accompany me to Big America. When we returned to the ship, he actually + jumped into the boat, without saying a word, and came off, ready for the + voyage. To be sure, there were few preparations requisite to rig him out. + A handkerchief about his loins comprised all the earthly goods of Robert + Soutter. + </p> + <p> + The houses at Settra Kroo are often two stories high, with piazzas round + the whole. The entrance to the upper story is by a ladder from without. + Like other native houses, they are built with bamboo, and thatched. There + being a war with other portions of the Kroo-people, the Beachmen have been + obliged to plant cassada in the town itself, instead of the neighboring + fields. Hence high fences are necessary to keep out the cattle; and these, + being irregular, make it a kind of labyrinth for a stranger. The place is + one of the best on the coast for watering ships, in the dry season. A + large stream of sweet and clear water runs through a grove of palm-trees, + to the sea. Hither come all the women of the village, in the old + scriptural fashion, with the water-jar, holding three or four gallons, on + the head. The consumption of water by the natives is very great. Whether + it be part of their religious ritual, I know not—although + cleanliness is in itself a religion—but the whole population wash + themselves from head to foot, at least twice a day, in fresh water, when + to be procured. These naked people, however, are as much averse as + ourselves to being wet by the rain; and every man of consequence has his + umbrella, to protect him both from sun and shower. + </p> + <p> + Palm-trees are more abundant here, than in any place which I have visited + on the coast. No tree, as has been said a thousand times, is so useful as + the palm. It gives a good shade, and is pleasing as an ornamental tree. + The palm-nut is very palatable and nutritious for food, and likewise + affords oil, the kernel as well as the pulpy substance being available for + that purpose. Palm-wine is the sap of the tree; and its top furnishes a + most delicious dish, called palm-cabbage. The trunk supplies fire-wood, + and timber for building fences. From the fibres of the wood is + manufactured a strong cordage, and a kind of native cloth; and the leaves, + besides being used for thatching houses, are converted into hats. If + nature had given the inhabitants of Africa nothing else, this one gift of + the palm-tree would have included food, drink, clothing, and habitation, + and the gratuitous boon of beauty, into the bargain. + </p> + <p> + I have procured some of the country-money. It is more curious than + convenient. The "Manilly," worth a dollar and a half, would be a fearful + currency to make large payments in, being composed of old brass kettles, + melted up, and cast in a sand-mould. The weight is from two to four + pounds; so that the circulation of this country may be said to rest upon a + pretty solid metallic basis. The "Buyapart," valued at twenty-five cents, + is a piece of cloth four inches square, covered thickly over with the + small shells called cowries, sewed on. The other currency consists + principally in such goods as have an established value. Brass kettles, + cotton handkerchiefs, tobacco, guns, and kegs of powder, are legal tender. + [Footnote: Specimens of the native money have been presented by the author + to the National Institute at Washington.] + </p> + <p> + 29.—Mrs. Sawyer was on board yesterday. It is not without regret + that we part with this interesting, energetic, and truly Christian woman. + She is the only white person here, and lives alone among a tribe of + savages, as safe, and perhaps more so, than in a civilized city. The + occasional visits of vessels of war prevent any evil-minded person from + molesting her; but she has little need of guardianship of this nature; for + her own kind acts, and purity of character, will always ensure her the + respect of the natives. Mrs. S. told us, that, before her husband died, + the war-king of the Settra Kroos had quarrelled with him, and was his + enemy at the time of his death. Not long afterwards, this war-king came to + Mrs. Sawyer, and assured her of his protection and assistance to the + utmost of his power, which is very great, as he commands all the + fighting-men of the tribe. I know not that the power of feminine + excellence has ever been more strikingly acknowledged, than by this act of + an incensed and barbarous warrior. Somewhat of her influence, as well as + that of the missionaries generally, is probably owing to her color. Many + of the natives look with contempt on the colonists, and do not hesitate to + tell them that they are merely liberated slaves. On the other hand, the + colonists will never recognize the natives otherwise than as heathen. + Amalgamation is scarcely more difficult between the white and colored + races in America, than it is in Africa, between the "black-white" colonist + and the unadulterated native. + </p> + <p> + On our arrival here, we found an English brig, whose commander has been + once on board of us. He has a large assortment of trade-goods of all + sorts, and his vessel is fitted up with a view to comfort in living, as + well as the convenience of trade. + </p> + <p> + A native colored woman has her residence on board, as his washerwoman and + stewardess, and likewise, if the captain be not belied, in a more intimate + relation. To-day, also, came in another English brig, the master of which + has a female companion, filling the same variety of offices as the former. + Many of the English trading vessels retain such persons on board, during + the whole time they are on the coast. The masters, so far as we have had + opportunity to observe, have generally been hard-drinking unscrupulous + men. Few of them hesitate to avow their readiness to furnish slavers with + goods, equally with any other purchasers, if they can make their profit, + and get their pay. There is great jealousy among the traders, and much + underhand work to get the business from each other. They have native + trade-men in their interest, all along the coast, watching their rivals, + and preparing to take any advantage that may offer. Profound secrecy is + observed as to their movements and intentions. The crews of some vessels + are seldom allowed to visit the shore, lest they should give information + about the affairs of the master. + </p> + <p> + Not a few of the reports about American slavers spring from this jealousy + of trade. The masters of English merchant-vessels, jealous of the + Americans, and desirous to engross the trade to themselves, report them to + the British cruisers as suspicious vessels. The cruiser, if he give too + ready credence to the calumny, will probably overhaul the American, and + perhaps break up his voyage; he being, nevertheless, as honest as any + trader on the coast. But the ends of the Englishman are answered; he sells + his cargo, and cares little about the diplomatic correspondence that may + ensue, and the possible embroilment of the two nations. + </p> + <p> + English vessels far outnumber all others on the coast. Dr. Madden, the + commissioner to examine the condition of the British colonial settlements, + reports the total imports into England from the West Coast of Africa, in + 1836, at £800,000. In 1840, the exports of British products to Africa + amounted to £492,128, in the transportation of which, 72,000 tons of + shipping were employed. The government and people of England are giving + great attention to this coast, as an important theatre of trade. + </p> + <p> + A committee of the House of Commons, in 1842, made extensive and minute + inquiries into the subject, and published a great mass of interesting + information. They recommended, that the Crown should resume the + jurisdiction of several forts, on the Gold Coast, which have been given up + to a committee of merchants; and that there be new settlements + established, and block-houses erected at various points. + </p> + <p> + The English have lost the gum-trade, by the French subsidizing the King of + the Trazars, who holds the key to the gum-country; and the mahogany-trade + has been destroyed by that of Honduras, the wood from which is of a better + quality. The experiment on the part of the English, of carrying African + rice to compete with that of America, has likewise failed. + </p> + <p> + The subject of American Trade with the west of Africa is so important, + that it may be well to devote a separate chapter to some account of its + nature, and the methods of carrying it on. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. + </h2> + <p> + American Trade—Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales—Standard + of Commercial Integrity—Dealings with Slave-Traders—Trade with + the Natives—King's "Dash"—Native Commission-Merchants—The + Gold Trade-The Ivory Trade—The "Round Trade"—Respectability of + American Merchant-Captains—Trade with the American Squadron. + </p> + <p> + More vessels come to the coast of Africa from Salem than from any other + port in the United States; although New York, Boston, and Providence, all + have their regular traders. Some of these trade chiefly to Gambia or + Sierra Leone; others to Gallinas, Monrovia and down the coast, touching at + different points. Others, again, go to the Gaboon river, and the islands + of Princes and St. Thomas; and some stretch still farther south, to + Benguela, and beyond. Most American vessels bring provisions, such as + flour, ship-bread, beef, pork, and hams, which are bought chiefly by the + European or American colonists. The natives, however, are yearly acquiring + a taste for them. The market being often overstocked, this part of the + trade is precarious. Other exports are furniture, boots and shoes, wooden + clocks, and all articles of American manufacture, or such as are used + among civilized men. All the vessels bring New England rum, leaf-tobacco, + powder, guns, large brass pans, and cotton cloth. On these points, a great + deal of correct information has been given by Dr. Hall, and may be found + in some of the numbers of the African Repository. + </p> + <p> + The mode of trading has some peculiarities. On arriving at a civilized + settlement, the captain sends his "list" ashore to some resident merchant. + This list contains a schedule of his cargo, with the prices of each + article annexed, and the kind of pay required. Some take only cash. Most + vessels, however, take the productions of the country at a stipulated + price; for instance, camwood at, say, sixty dollars per ton, palm-oil, at + twenty-five to thirty-three cents per gallon, ivory, ground or peanuts, + gold dust, and gum. At the Cape de Verd islands, salt, goat-skins, and + hides, are the chief commodities received in exchange; at Gambia, hides; + at Monrovia, Cape Palmas, and other settlements in Liberia, camwood and + palm-oil are the great staples. There is likewise some ivory, but not in + large quantity. On the Gold Coast, the trade is in gold-dust and palm-oil; + at the Gaboon, in ivory and gold-dust,—and at Benguela, in gum. + </p> + <p> + The "list" being put up conspicuously in the merchant's store (such being + the method of advertising in Liberia, where the newspapers are not made + use of, for this purpose), the traders, purchasers, and idlers, come to + see what is for sale. The store becomes, for the time being, the public + Exchange of the settlement, where people assemble, not merely with + commercial views, but to hear the intelligence from abroad, and to diffuse + it thence throughout the country. In due time, the captain comes on shore + with his samples, and individual purchasers bargain for what they want. + The captain receives payment, whether in cash or commodities, and weighs + the camwood, or measures the palm-oil, at the merchant's store. If credit + be given, the merchant is responsible, and receives a perquisite of five + per cent on all sales. The captain takes up his residence on shore, and + sends for goods from his vessel, as they are wanted; while the mate and + crew remain on board, to despatch and receive the cargo. Every vessel has + in its employ several Kroomen, by whom all the boat-service is performed. + </p> + <p> + When the demand for goods appears to have ceased, the captain either takes + his unsold cargo away, or leaves a portion to be disposed of in his + absence, and sets sail for another settlement. Here the same process is + gone through with, and so on, until the cargo is sold. The captain then + turns back, touching at the several places where he has left goods, to + receive the proceeds, and thence home to America, for a new cargo. Regular + traders have numerous orders to fill up, from persons resident on the + coast; taking care, of course, to allow themselves a good profit for their + trouble and freight. The trade with the colonists is easy and sufficiently + plain; the only difficulty being the somewhat essential one of obtaining + payment. Colonial traders, in abundance, are eager to buy on credit; but, + possessing little or no capital, they often fail to satisfy their + obligations at the period assigned—if, indeed, they ever pay at all. + Commercial integrity is not here of so high an order as in older + countries, where the great body of merchants have established a standard + of rectitude, which individuals must not venture to transgress. + </p> + <p> + Another large branch of business is at places where the slave-trade is + carried on; as at Gallinas and Wydah. Here, provisions, guns, powder, + cotton cloths, and other goods, suitable for the purchase or subsistence + of slaves, are sold at good prices for cash, or bills of exchange. The + bills of Pedro Blanco, the notorious slave-dealer at Gallinas, on an + eminent Spanish house in New York, and another in London, are taken as + readily as cash. A large number of the vessels engaged in the African + trade, whether English or American, do a considerable part of their + business either with the slavers, or with natives settled at the + slave-marts, and who, from their connection with the trade, have plenty of + money. Some of the large English houses give orders to their captains and + supercargoes not to traffic with men reputed to be slave-dealers; but, if + a purchaser come with money in his hand, and offer liberal prices, it + requires a tenderer conscience and sterner integrity than are usually met + with, on the coast of Africa, to resist the temptation. The merchant at + home, possibly, is supposed to know nothing of all this. It is quite an + interesting moral question, however, how far either Old or New England can + be pronounced free from the guilt and odium of the slave trade, while, + with so little indirectness, they both share its profits and contribute + essential aid to its prosecution. + </p> + <p> + The method of trade with the natives is more tedious than that with the + colonists, and differs entirely in its character. On anchoring at a + trade-place, it is necessary, first of all, to pay the King his "dash," or + present, varying in value from twenty dollars to seven or eight hundred. + Such sums as the latter are paid only by ships of eight hundred or a + thousand tons,—and in the great rivers, as Bonny or Calebar. The + "dash" may be considered as equivalent to the duties levied on foreign + imports, in civilized countries; and doubtless, as in those cases, the + trader remunerates himself by an enhanced price upon his merchandize. + </p> + <p> + The King being "dashed" to his satisfaction, trade commences. The canoes + bring off the articles which the natives have for sale; and the goods of + the vessel are exhibited in return. At first, it is a slow process; either + party offering little for the commodity of the other, and asking much for + his own. But, in a few days, prices becoming established on both sides, + business grows brisk, and flags only when one party has little more to + exchange. Native agents are employed by the stranger; some being Kroomen + attached to the vessel, and others trade-men, inhabiting the native towns. + These men, in addition to their small regular pay, continually receive + presents, which are necessary in order to excite their activity and zeal. + </p> + <p> + There is still another mode of trading, resorted to by many masters of + vessels. They entrust quantities of goods—varying in value from a + trifling sum up to a thousand dollars, or even more—to native + trade-men. With these, or part of them, the trade-man goes into the + interior, makes trade with the Bushmen, and brings the proceeds to his + employer. These native agents are sometimes trusted with large amounts, + for several months together, and not unfrequently give their principal + great trouble in collecting his dues. Their families, to be sure, are held + responsible, and the King is bound to enforce payment. Nevertheless, if so + disposed, they can procrastinate, and finally cheat their creditor out of + his debt; especially as the vessel cannot remain long upon the coast, + awaiting the King's tardy methods of compulsion. + </p> + <p> + On the Gold Coast, each vessel employs a native who is called its + "gold-taker," and is skilful in detecting spurious metal. The gold-dust is + brought for sale, wrapped up in numerous coverings, to avoid waste. It is + tested by acids; or, more commonly, by rubbing the gold on the + "black-stone," when the color of the mark, which it leaves upon the stone, + decides the character of the metal. The gold, after its weight has been + ascertained, is put by the captain into little barrels, holding perhaps + half a pint, and with the top screwing tightly on. This "glittering dust" + (to use the phrase which moralists are fond of applying to worldly pelf), + commands from sixteen to eighteen dollars per ounce, in England and the + United States. It is gathered from the sands which the rivers of Africa + wash down from the golden mountains; and, when offered for sale, small + lumps of gold and rudely manufactured rings are sometimes found among the + dust—ornaments that have perhaps been worn by sable monarchs, or + their sultanas, in the interior of the country. + </p> + <p> + In the ivory trade, small teeth (comprising all that weigh less than + twenty pounds) are considered to be worth but half the price, per pound, + that is paid for large teeth. From fifty cents to a dollar is the ordinary + value of a pound of ivory. Some large teeth sell for a hundred dollars, or + even a hundred and fifty. The sale of such a gigantic tusk, as may well be + supposed, is considered an affair of almost national importance, and the + bargain can only be adjusted through the medium of a "big palaver." The + trade in ivory is now on the decline; the demand in England and France not + being so great as formerly, and America never having presented a good + market for the article. + </p> + <p> + Palm-oil is brought from the interior, on the heads of the natives, in + calabashes, containing two or three gallons each. In speaking of the + interior, however, a comparatively short distance from the coast is to be + understood. Gold, where great value is concentrated into small bulk, and + some ivory, may occasionally come from remote regions; but the vast inland + tracts of the African continent have little to do, either directly or + indirectly, with the commerce of the civilized world. + </p> + <p> + In dealing with the natives, there was formerly a system much in vogue, + but now going out of use, called the "round trade." The method was, to + offer one of each article; for instance, one gun, one cutlass, one flint, + one brass kettle, one needle, and so on, from the commodity of greatest + value down to the least. In all traffic there is a desire on the part of + the native to obtain as great a variety as his means will compass. If the + native commodity on sale be valuable, the captain offers two or more of + his guns, cutlasses, flints, brass kettles, and needles; if it be small, + and of trifling value, he perhaps exhibits only a flint and a needle as an + equivalent. The native of course tries to get the most valuable, and the + purchaser to pay the least. If the former demand a piece of cloth, and if + it be refused by the captain, the native then asks what he will "room" it + with. The captain, it may be, proposes to substitute a needle; and, after + much talk, the troublesome bargain is thus brought to a point. English + vessels usually have supercargoes; the Americans are seldom so provided. + But the American captains, on the other hand, are respectable, + intelligent, and trustworthy men, almost without exception. The exigencies + of the trade require such men; and any defect, either of capacity or + integrity, would soon be brought to light by the onerous duties and + responsibilities imposed upon them. Great latitude must be allowed them, + or the voyage cannot be expected to turn out profitably. They perform the + double duty of master and supercargo, and perhaps with the more success, + as there can be no disunion or difference of judgment. These captains are + likewise often part owners of vessel and cargo. + </p> + <p> + Since the African coast has been made the cruising ground of an American + squadron, the merchantmen have brought out stores, with the expectation of + disposing of them to the ships of war. Some of these speculations have + turned out very profitable; but now, when the Government understands and + has made provisions for the wants of the station, this market is not to be + relied upon. To the officers, indeed, there is a chance, though by no + means a certainty, of selling mess-stores. The prices charged by + merchantmen correspond with the scarcity of the article, and are sometimes + enormous. I have known nine dollars a barrel asked for Irish, or rather + Yankee potatoes, and have paid my share for a small quantity, at that + rate. To those who see this vegetable daily on their tables, it may seem + strange that men should value a potatoe five times as highly as an orange. + After eating yams and cassada, however, for months together, one learns + how to appreciate a mealy potatoe, the absence of which cannot be + compensated by the most delicious of tropical fruits. Adam's fare in + Paradise might have been much improved, had Eve known how to boil + potatoes; nor, perhaps, would the fatal apple have been so tempting. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. + </h2> + <p> + Jack Purser's wife—Fever on Board—Arrival at Cape Palmas—Strange + Figure and Equipage of a Missionary—King George of Grand Bassam—Intercourse + with the Natives—Tahon—Grand Drewin—St. Andrew's—Picaninny + Lahoo—Natives attacked by the French—Visit of King Peter—Sketches + of Scenery and People at Cape Labon. + </p> + <p> + <i>March</i> 30.—Got under way, at daylight, and stood down the + coast. + </p> + <p> + I recollect nothing else, at Settra Kroo, that requires description, + unless it be the person and garb of a native lady of fashion. Sitting with + my friend Jack Purser, yesterday, a young woman came up, with a pipe in + her mouth. A cloth around her loins, dyed with gay colors, composed her + whole drapery, leaving her figure as fully exposed as the most classic + sculptor could have wished. It is to be observed, however, that the sable + hue is in itself a kind of veil, and takes away from that sense of nudity + which would so oppress the eye, were a woman of our own race to present + herself so scantily attired. The native lady in question was tall, finely + shaped, and would have been not a little attractive, but for the white + clay with which she had seen fit to smear her face and bosom. Around her + ankles were many rows of blue beads, which also encircled her leg below + the knee, thus supplying the place of garters, although stockings were + dispensed with. Her smile was pleasant, and her disposition seemed + agreeable; and, certainly, if the rest of Jack Purser's wives (for this + was one of the nine-and-twenty) be so well-fitted to make him happy, the + sum total of his conjugal felicity must be enormous! + </p> + <p> + 31.—Sunday. An oppressively hot day. There are three new cases of + fever, making fourteen in all, besides sixteen or seventeen of other + complaints. There is some apprehension that we are to have general + sickness on board. + </p> + <p> + <i>April</i> 1.—Off Cape Palmas. A canoe being sent ashore, returned + with a letter from the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, stating that two missionaries + wish for a passage to the Gaboon, and making so strong an appeal that the + captain's sympathies could not resist it. So we run in and anchor. + </p> + <p> + 2.—Went ashore in the gig, and amused myself by reading the + newspapers at the Governor's, while the captain rode out to the mission + establishment, at Mount Vaughan. During my stay, one of the new + missionaries, a native of Kentucky, came in from Mount Vaughan, and rode + up to the Government House, in country style. He was in a little wagon, + drawn by eight natives, and sat bolt upright, with an umbrella over his + head. The maligners of the priesthood, in all ages and countries, have + accused them of wishing to ride on the necks of the people; but I never + before saw so nearly literal an exemplification of the fact. In its + metaphorical sense, indeed, I should be very far from casting such an + imputation upon the zealous and single-minded missionary before me. He is + a man of eminent figure, at least six feet and three inches high, with a + tremendous nose, vast in its longitude and depth, but wonderfully thin + across the edge. It was curious to meet, in Africa, a person so strongly + imbued with the peculiarities of his section of our native land; for his + manner had the real Western swing, and his dialect was more marked than is + usual among educated men. With a native audience, however, this is a + matter of no moment. + </p> + <p> + We were told that the Roman Catholics are about to leave Cape Palmas, and + establish branches of their mission at the different French stations on + the coast, under the patronage of Louis Philippe. The Presbyterians have + all gone to the Gaboon river. The Episcopal Mission pines at Cape Palmas, + and will probably be removed. The discord between its members and the + Colonial Government continues with unabated bitterness. Mr. Hazlehurst + regrets that the missionaries were identified with the colonists, in our + great palaver with the four-and-twenty kings and headmen, at Cape Palmas. + He believes, that, in case of any outbreak of the natives, the + missionaries on the out stations would fall the first victims. His + sentiments, it must be admitted, are such as it behoves a minister of + religion to entertain, in so far as he would repudiate military force as + an agent for sustaining the cause of missions. + </p> + <p> + We sailed at noon for the leeward without the missionaries, who declined + taking passage, as it is doubtful whether the ship will proceed beyond + Cape Coast Castle. We have now fifteen cases of fever, most of them mild + in character. The prospect of sickness will cut short our leeward cruise. + </p> + <p> + 4.—Off Tahoo. The natives have come on board, with fowls, ivory, and + monkey-skins, to "make trade." Tobacco is the article chiefly sought for + in exchange. A large canoe came off, with a small English flag displayed, + and a native in regimentals standing erect; a most unusual and + inconvenient posture to be maintained in a canoe. Mounting the ship's + side, he proved to be no less a man than King George of Grand Bassam. His + majesty wore a military frock trimmed with yellow, two worsted epaulettes + on his shoulders, and an English hussar-cap on his head, with the motto + FULGOR ET HONOS. A cloth around his loins completed his heterogeneous + equipment. In the canoe was a small bullock, tied by the feet, together + with several ducks, chickens, kids, and plantains. The bullock and one + duck were presented to the captain by way of "dash;" always the most + expensive mode of procuring provisions, for, unless you dash the donor to + at least an equal extent, he will certainly importune you for more. King + George remarked that the other articles in the canoe belonged to the boys, + and were for sale. They refused to sell them, however, until the King, + after eating and drinking his fill in the cabin, went out, and engaged in + the traffic at once. The liquor brought out his real character; and this + royal personage scolded and haggled like a private trader, and a sharp one + too. + </p> + <p> + Having sold his stock, and received much more than its value, his majesty + thought it not beneath his station to beg, and thus obtain divers odd + things for his wardrobe and larder. When he could get no more, he finally + took his leave, carrying off the remains of the food which had been set + before him, without so much as an apology. + </p> + <p> + We have been running along that portion of the coast, where, three months + ago, we burned the native towns. No attempt has yet been made to rebuild + them, for fear of a second hostile visit from the ships; but the natives + have indirectly applied to the Commodore for permission to do so, and it + will probably be granted, on their pledging themselves to good behavior. + </p> + <p> + 5.—At anchor off Grand Berebee. All day, the ship has been thronged + with natives. They are civil at first, but almost universally display a + bad trait of character, by altering their manners for the worse, in + proportion to the kindness shown them. As they acquire confidence, they + become importunate, and almost impudent. Every canoe brings something to + sell. It is amusing to see these people paddling alongside with two or + three chickens tied round their necks, and hanging down their backs, with + an occasional flutter that shows them to be yet alive. Some of the kings + hold umbrellas over their heads; rather, one would suppose, as a mark of + dignity, than from a tender regard to their complexions. These umbrellas + were afterwards converted into bags, to hold the bread which they + received. + </p> + <p> + The weather has been cooler for two days, and the fever-patients are fast + improving. + </p> + <p> + 6.—This morning, our visitors of yesterday, and many more, came + alongside, but only persons of distinction were admitted on board. + Nevertheless, they suffice to crowd the deck. A war-canoe, with a king in + it, paddled round the ship twice, all the men working for dear life, by + way, I suppose, of contrasting their naval force with our own. All our + guests, of whatever rank, come to trade or to beg; and it is curious to + see how essentially their estimation of money differs from our own. Coin + is almost unknown in the traffic of the coast, and it is only those who + have been at Sierra Leone, or some of the colonial settlements, who are + aware of its value. One "cut money," or quarter of a dollar, is the + smallest coin of which most of the natives have any idea. This is + invariably the price of a fowl, when money is offered; but a head of + tobacco or a couple of fish-hooks would be preferred. Empty bottles find a + ready market. Yesterday, I "dashed" three or four great characters with a + bottle each; all choosing ale or porter bottles in preference to an + octagonal-sided one, used by "J. Wingrove and Co." of London, in putting + up their "Celebrated Raspberry Vinegar." The chiefs must have consulted + about it afterwards; for, this morning, no less than three kings and a + governor, begged, as a great favor, that I would give them that particular + bottle, and were sadly disappointed, on learning that it had been paid + away for a monkey-skin. No other bottle would console them. + </p> + <p> + After the traffic is over, the begging commences; and they prove + themselves artful as well as persevering mendicants. Sometimes they make + an appeal to your social affections; "Massa, I be your friend!" The rascal + has never seen you before, and would cut your throat for a pound of + tobacco. Another seeks to excite your compassion: "My heart cry for a + bottle of rum!" and no honest toper, who has felt what that cry is, can + refuse his sympathy, even if he withhold the liquor. A third applicant + addresses himself to your noble thirst for fame. "Suppose you dash me, I + take your name ashore, and make him live there!" And certainly a deathless + name, at the price of an empty bottle or a head of tobacco, is a bargain + that even a Yankee would not scorn. + </p> + <p> + 7.—We passed Tahoo in the night, and are now running along a more + beautiful country. The land is high and woody, unlike the flat and marshy + tracts that skirt the shores to windward. These are the Highlands of + Drewin. The ship has been full of Grand Drewin people, who come to look + about them, to beg, and to dispose of fowls, ducks, cocoa-nuts, and small + canoes. They are the most noisy set of fellows on the coast. + </p> + <p> + 8. We left Grand Drewin, and anchored at St. Andrew's, six miles distant. + The inhabitants, being at war with those of Grand Drewin, do not come off + to us, apprehending that their enemies are concealed behind the ship. + These tribes have been at war more than a year, and have made two + expeditions, resulting in the death of two men on one side and three on + the other. The army of Grand Drewin, having slain three, boasts much of + its superior valor. It must be owned, that the absurdity of war, as the + ultimate appeal of nations, becomes rather strikingly manifest, by being + witnessed on a scale so ridiculously minute. + </p> + <p> + 9.—A message having been sent in to inform the King of our + character, three or four canoes came off to us. The inhabitants have + little to sell compared with those of Grand Drewin. Indian corn, which + does not flourish so well to windward, has been offered freely at both + places, in the ear. + </p> + <p> + I went ashore, in company with four other officers. The bar is difficult, + and, in rough weather, must be dangerous. A broad bay opens on your sight, + as soon as the narrow and rocky mouth of the river is passed. Two large + streams branch off, and lose themselves among the high trees upon their + banks. A number of cocoa-nut trees, on the shore, made a thick shade for + fifteen or twenty soldiers, who loitered about, or sat, or lay at length + upon the ground, watching against the approach of the enemy. Some held + muskets in their hands; others had rested their weapons against the trunks + of the trees. We were first conducted to the residence of King Queah, who + received us courteously, regaled us with palm-wine, and inflicted a duck + upon us by way of "dash." The wine, in a capacious gourd, was brought out, + and placed in the centre of the large open space, where we sat. The King, + his headman, and his son, all drank first, in order to prove that the + liquor was not poisonous; a ceremony which makes one strongly sensible of + being among people, who have no very conscientious regard for human life. + The mug was then refilled, and passed to us. + </p> + <p> + On the walls of the house there were fresco-paintings, evidently by a + native artist, rudely representing persons and birds. The most prominent + figures were the King, seated in a chair, and seven wives standing in a + row before him, most of them with pipes in their mouths. Black, red, and + white, were apparently the only colors that the painter's palette + supplied. The groundwork was the natural color of the clay, which had been + plastered upon the wall of wicker-work. + </p> + <p> + There seem to be two crowned heads at this place, reminding one of the two + classic Kings of Brentford; for, after leaving King Queah, we were led to + the house of another sovereign, styled King George. The frequent + occurrence of this latter name, indicates the familiarity between the + natives and the English. His Majesty received us in state; that is to say, + chairs were placed for the visitors, and the King, with a black hat on his + head, looked dignified. I was so fortunate as to make a favorable + impression on his principal wife, by means of an empty bottle and a head + of tobacco, which she was pleased to accept at my hands in the most + gracious manner. Though probably fifty years of age, she had beautified + herself, and concealed the touch of time by streaks of soot carefully laid + on over her face and body. + </p> + <p> + The houses of each family are enclosed within bamboo walls, sometimes to + the number of eight or ten huts in one of these insulated hamlets. They + are generally wretched hovels, and of the simplest construction, merely a + thatched roof, like a permanent umbrella, with no lower walls, and no + ends. Altogether, the dwellings and their inhabitants looked miserable + enough. The tribe has the reputation of being treacherous and cruel, and + the aspect of the people is in accordance with their character. + </p> + <p> + I purchased a man's cloth, of native manufacture. It is said to be made of + the bark of a tree, pounded together so as to be strong and durable. I + also procured a hank of fine white fibre of the pine-apple leaf. Of this + material the natives make strong and beautiful fishing-lines, and other + cords. Before being twisted it has the appearance of hemp. + </p> + <p> + 11.—We anchored, last evening, at Picaninny Lahoo. Only one canoe + has come off to us. The natives are shy of all strange vessels, in + consequence of a French man-of-war having fired upon one of the + neighboring towns, a few days since. It seems that a French + merchant-barque was wrecked here, by running ashore. The master saved his + gold and personal property, and he and the crew were kindly treated; but + the vessel and cargo were plundered, in accordance with the custom of the + African coast, as well as of countries that boast more of their + civilisation. Nevertheless, the captain of the French man-of-war demanded + restitution, and kept up a fire upon the town for several successive days. + An English merchant-vessel, lying there at the time, protested against the + cannonade, and threatened to report the French captain to Lord Stanley!—on + the plea that his measures of hostility prevented the natives from + engaging in trade. + </p> + <p> + In fact, these masters of English merchant-vessels would probably consider + the interruption of trade as the greatest of all offences against human + rights. We boarded a brig of that nation to-day, and found her full of + natives, with whom a very brisk business was going forward. Some brought + palm-oil, and others gold, which they exchanged principally for guns, + cloth, and powder. We here saw the gold tested by the "blackstone;" a + peculiar kind of mineral, black, with a slight tinge of blue. If, when the + gold is rubbed upon this stone, it leaves a reddish mark, it is regarded + as a satisfactory proof of its purity; otherwise, there is more or less + alloy. The trader is obliged to depend upon the judgment and integrity of + a native in his employ, who is skilful in trying gold. The average profit, + acquired by the foreign traders in their dealings with the natives, is not + less than a hundred per cent. on the principal articles, and much more on + the smaller ones. No inconsiderable portion of this, however, is absorbed + by the numerous "dashes;" in the first place, to the king, then to the + head trade-men, the canoe-men, and all others whose agency can anywise + influence the success of the business. + </p> + <p> + The masters or supercargoes of English vessels receive, besides their + regular pay of six pounds per month, a commission of five per cent. on all + sales; they being responsible for any debts which they may allow the + natives to contract. + </p> + <p> + 12.—Ashore at Cape Lahon, the scene of the recent hostilities + between the French and the natives. We landed in large heavy canoes, + flat-bottomed and square-sided. The town is built upon a narrow point of + land between the sea and a lake, just at the outlet of two rivers. On the + side next the sea, you discern only the bamboo walls of the town, and a + few cocoa-nut trees, scattered along the sandy beach; but on the lake + side, there is one of the loveliest views imaginable. The quiet lake and + its wooded islands; the thousand of green cocoa-nut trees, laden with + fruit, and shadowing all the shore; the rivers, broad and dark, stretching + away on either hand, until lost among the depths of the forest, which + doubtless extends into the mysterious heart of Africa; the canoes, + returning along these majestic streams with people who had fled; the + hundreds of natives who reclined in the shade, or clustered around a + fountain in the sand, or busied themselves with the canoes;—all + contributed to form a picture which was very pleasant to our eyes, long + wearied as we were with the sight of ocean and sky, and the dreary skirts + of the sea-shore. It was an hour of true repose, while we lay in the + shadow of the trees, and drank the cool milk of cocoa-nuts, which the + native boys plucked and opened for us. + </p> + <p> + I should have narrated, in the first place, our visit to King Peter, who + rules over this beautiful spot. He held his court under an awning of + palm-leaves, in an area of more than a hundred feet square, around the + sides of which were the little dwellings that, conjointly, composed his + palace. The King received us with dignity and affability; and probably not + less than two hundred of his subjects were collected in the area, to + witness the interview; for it was to them a matter of national importance. + They are exceedingly anxious to adjust their difficulties with the French, + and hope to interest us as mediators. By their own history of the affair, + which was laid before us at great length, they appear to have been only + moderately to blame, and to have suffered a great deal of mischief. King + Quashee and nine men were killed, and fifty or sixty houses burnt, besides + other damage. + </p> + <p> + These people are a fine-looking race, well formed, and with very pleasing + countenances. At our first arrival the women were all at the plantations, + in the interior, whither they had fled when our ship came in sight, + apprehending her to be French. Towards evening, they returned to the + village, and afforded us an opportunity to see and talk with them. They + are the handsomest African dames with whom I have formed an acquaintance, + and the most affable. It grieves me to add, that, like all their + countrymen and countrywomen, they are importunate beggars, and seem + greatly to prefer the fiery liquors of the white man to their own mild + palm-wine and cocoa-nut milk. One of our party offered rum to the eight + young wives of Tom Beggree, our trade-man; and every soul of them tossed + off her goblet without a wry face, though it was undiluted, and + thirty-three per cent. above proof. + </p> + <p> + As at other places, each family resides in a separate enclosure, which is + larger or smaller, according to the number of houses required. Domestic + harmony is in some degree provided for, by allotting a separate residence + to each wife. There is a courtyard before most of the enclosures, after + traversing which, you enter a spacious square, and perceive neatly built + houses on all four of its sides. They are constructed of bamboo-cane + placed upright, and united by cross-pieces of the same, strongly sewed + together with thongs of some tough wood. Some of the floors are not + untastefully paved with small pebbles, intermingled with white shells. + Doors there are none, the entrance being through the windows, in order to + keep out the pigs and sheep, which abound in the enclosures. The streets + or passages through the town are about five feet wide, and are bordered on + either side by the high bamboo wall of some private domain. The settlement + extends more than a mile in length, and is the largest and best-built that + I have yet had the good fortune to see on the coast of Africa. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. + </h2> + <p> + Visit from two English Trading-Captains—The Invisible King of + Jack-a-Jack—Human Sacrifices—French Fortresses at Grand + Bassam, at Assinee, and other points—Objections to the Locality of + Liberia—Encroachments on the Limits of that Colony—Arrival at + Axim—Sketches of that Settlement—Dix Cove—Civilized + Natives—An Alligator. + </p> + <p> + <i>April</i> 14.—Under way from Cape Lahon at daylight. All the + morning, there were light breezes and warm air; but a fine sea-breeze set + in, in the afternoon, and brought us, at seven o'clock, to anchor at + "Grand Jack," or "Jack-a-Jack." The distributors of names along this coast + deserve no credit for their taste. The masters of two English merchantmen + came on board and spent the evening. One of them was far gone with a + consumption; the other was, in his own phrase, a "jolly cock," and seemed + disposed to make himself amusing; in pursuance of which object he became + very drunk, before taking his departure. Englishmen, in this station of + life, do not occupy the same social rank as with us, and, consequently, + have seldom the correct and gentlemanly manners of our own ship-masters. + The master of an English merchant-vessel would hardly be considered a fit + guest for either the cabin or ward-room of a British man-of-war. + </p> + <p> + These masters informed us that they had paid three hundred dollars each, + for the king's "dash," at this place; in addition to which, every + merchant-captain must pay eight dollars on landing, and if from Bristol, + twenty-four dollars. This distinction is in consequence of a Bristol + captain having shot a native, some years ago; and when the palaver was + settled, the above amount of blood-money was imposed upon all ship-masters + from the same place. Our two visitors have now been here for months, and + will remain for months longer, without once setting foot on shore; partly + to avoid incurring the impost on landing, partly from caution against the + natives, and partly to keep their business secret. The jealousy between + the traders is very great. Those from Bristol, Liverpool, and London, all + are in active competition with each other, and with any foreigner who may + come in their way; and their policy may truly be described as + Machiavelian, in its mystery, craft, and crookedness. The business + requires at least as long an apprenticeship as the diplomacy of nations, + and a new hand has but little chance among these sharp fellows. + </p> + <p> + 15.—Some canoes from the shore have been off to us. We learn from + them, that there is to be a great annual festival today; on which occasion + the king, who has been secluded from the sight of his subjects for eight + years, will shine forth again, "like a re-appearing star." There is + something very provocative to the imagination in this circumstance. What + can have been the motive of such a seclusion? was it in the personal + character of the king, and did he shut himself up to meditate on high + matters, or to revel in physical indulgence? or, possibly, to live his own + simple life, untrammelled by the irksome exterior of greatness? or was it + merely a trick of kingcraft, in order to deify himself in the superstition + of his people, by the awfulness of an invisible presence among them? Be + the secret what it may, it would be interesting to observe the face of the + royal hermit, at the moment when the sunshine and the eyes of his subjects + first fall upon it again. The inhabitants from many miles around have come + to witness and participate in the ceremonies. There are to be grand + dances, and all manner of festivity; and one of the English captains + informed us that he had sold a thousand gallons of rum, within a + fortnight, to be quaffed at this celebration. + </p> + <p> + There is another circumstance that may give the festival a darker + interest. It is customary, on such occasions, to sacrifice one or two + slaves, who are generally culprits reserved for this anniversary. The + natives on board deny that there will be any such sacrifice, but admit + that a palaver will be held over a slave, who had attempted to escape. + Should it be so, the poor wretch will stand little chance for mercy at the + hands of these barbarians, frenzied with rum, and naturally blood-thirsty. + We are all anxious to go on shore, to see the ceremonies, and try to save + the destined victim; or, if better may not be, to witness the thrilling + spectacle of a human sacrifice, which, being partly a religious rite, is + an affair of a higher order than one of our civilized executions. But our + captain has heard of an English vessel ashore and in distress, a day's + sail below, and is hastening to their assistance. While taking our + departure, therefore, we can only turn our eyes towards the shore, where a + large town is visible, clustered under the shelter of a cocoa-nut grove. + </p> + <p> + 16.—At 7 A.M., we are passing Grand Bassam, seven or eight miles + from land. Our track just touches the outer edge of the semicircular line + of dirty foam, indicating the distance to which the influence of the river + extends. Within the verge, the water is discolored by recent contact with + the earth; beyond it, ripples the uncontaminated, pure, blue ocean. One is + the emblem of human life, muddied with base influences; the other, of + eternity, which is only not transparent because of its depth. + </p> + <p> + Grand Bassam is one of the many places on the coast, where the French have + recently established forts, and raised their flag. Three large houses are + visible. The one in the centre seems to be the military residence and + stronghold; the other two are long buildings, one story high, and are + probably used as storehouses. A picket-fence surrounds the whole. At + Assinee, likewise, which is now in sight, there is another French fort, + consisting of a block-house and two store-houses, encompassed by pickets. + The French government are also fortifying other points along the coast, in + the most systematic manner. The general plan is, a block-house in the + centre, with long structures extending from each angle, two for barracks, + and two for trading-houses; the whole enclosed within a stockade. They are + imposing establishments, and constructed with an evident view to + durability. It is said that all but French vessels are to be prohibited + from trading within range of their guns, and that a man-of-war is to be + stationed at each settlement. The captain of a Bremen brig informed me, + that the Danes are about to sell their fort at Accra to the French; he + gave as his authority the single Danish officer remaining at Accra. + </p> + <p> + It is perhaps to be regretted that the colonies of Liberia were not + originally planted in the fertile territory along which we have recently + sailed, and which other nations are now pre-occupying. Liberia does not + appear to possess so rich a soil as most other parts of the coast; there + is more sand, and more marsh, above than below Cape Palmas. But the + country between Cape Palmas and Axim is inhabited by cruel, warlike, and + powerful tribes; and a colony would need more strength than Liberia has + ever yet possessed, to save it from destruction. From Axim to Accra, there + is a chain of forts which have been held by different European nations, + for centuries; nearly all the coast is claimed by these foreigners; while + the interior is occupied by such powerful kingdoms as those of Ashantee + and Dahomey. On these accounts, the tract now called Liberia (extending + about three hundred miles, from Cape Mesurado to Cape Palmas) was the most + open for the purposes of colonization. Even within the limits just named, + however, both France and England have recently betrayed a purpose of + effecting settlements. It is to be hoped that these nations will hereafter + transfer their titles to Liberia. Their policy doubtless is, to hold the + country for its exclusive trade, or until they can obtain advantageous + terms of commercial intercourse with the colonists and natives. The + attention of the Society at home, as well as of the Liberian government, + is now fully awake to the importance of securing territory. They are + aware, that, without vigorous and prompt measures to extinguish the native + title to the country between Monrovia and Cape Palmas, foreign nations + will occupy the intermediate positions, and cause much embarrassment + hereafter. + </p> + <p> + 17.—At Assinee. We boarded a French brig-of-war, the Eglantine, last + evening, and learned that the vessel, which ran ashore here, had gone to + pieces; so that all our hurry was of no avail. + </p> + <p> + Sailed at 9 A.M. for Axim. + </p> + <p> + 18.—Last night, we had thunder, lightning, wind, and rain. There are + showers and small tornadoes, almost every night, succeeded by clear and + pleasant days. We are now in sight of Cape-Three-Points, and the fort at + Axim. It is pleasant, after the monotonous aspect of the shore to + windward, to see a coast with deep indentations and bold promontories. The + fort at Axim has a commanding appearance, and the country in the vicinity + has a decidedly New-England look. + </p> + <p> + 19.—Ashore at Axim, where we met with some features of novelty. The + fort here is really an antique castle, having been built by the Portuguese + so long ago as 1600, and taken from them by its present possessors, the + Dutch, in 1639. It is of stone, built upon scientific principles, with + embrasures for cannon and loop-holes for musketry. The walls are four feet + thick, and capable of sustaining the assault of ten thousand natives. The + fortress is three stories high, the basement story being widest, and each + of the others diminishing in proportion, and surrounded by a terrace. The + two lower departments are intended for the cannon and the mass of the + defenders; while the Governor occupies the upper as his permanent + residence, and may there fortify himself impregnably, even if an enemy + should possess the fort below—unless, indeed, they should blow him + into the air. + </p> + <p> + The country claimed by the Dutch, extends about thirty miles along the + coast, and twenty miles into the interior, with a population estimated at + about ten thousand. They seem—particularly those who reside in the + villages beneath the fortress—to be entirely under the control of + their European masters, and to live comfortably, and be happy in their + condition. The natives possess slaves; and there are also many "pawns," of + a description seldom offered to the pawnbrokers in other parts of the + world; namely, persons who have pledged the services of themselves and + family to some creditor, until the debt be paid. It is a good and forcible + illustration of the degradation which debt always implies, though it may + not always be outwardly visible, as here at Axim. The Governor himself, + who is a native of Amsterdam, and apparently a mulatto, is one of those + pawn-brokers who deal in human pledges. He is a merchant-soldier, bearing + the military title of lieutenant, and doing business as a trader. The + Governor of El Mina is his superior officer, and the fort at Axim is + garrisoned by twelve black soldiers from the former place. War has existed + for several years between these Dutch settlements and their powerful + neighbor, the king of Appollonia, who is daily expected to attack the + fortress. In that event, the people in the neighboring villages would take + refuge within the walls, and there await the result. + </p> + <p> + The native houses are constructed in the usual manner, of small poles and + bamboo, plastered over with clay, and thatched. They might be kept + comfortable if kept in repair, but are mostly in a wretched state, + although thronged with occupants. The proportion of women, as well as + children, appears larger than in other places; and they wear a greater + amplitude of apparel than those of their sex on the windward coast, + covering their persons from the waist to the knee, and even lower. The + most remarkable article of dress is one which I have vaguely understood to + constitute a part of the equipment of my own fair countrywomen—in a + word, the veritable bustle. Among the belles of Axim, there is a reason + for the excrescence which does not exist elsewhere; for the little + children ride astride of the maternal bustle, which thus becomes as + useful, as it is unquestionably ornamental. Fashion, however, has + evidently more to do with the matter than convenience; for old wrinkled + grandams wear these beautiful anomalies, and little girls of eight years + old display protuberances that might excite the envy of a Broadway belle. + Indeed, fashion may be said to have its perfect triumph and utmost + refinement, in this article; it being a positive fact, that some of the + Axim girls wear merely the bustle, without so much as the shadow of a + garment. Its native name is "tarb koshe." + </p> + <p> + Axim is said to be perfectly healthy, there being no marshes in the + vicinity. The soil is fertile and the growth luxuriant. There is a fine + well of water, from which ships may be supplied abundantly and easily, + though not cheaply. The landing place is protected by small islands and + reefs, which break the force of the swell; so that boats may land with as + much safety and as little difficulty as in a river. One of our boats, + nevertheless, with fifteen or sixteen persons on board, ran on a rock and + bilged, in attempting to go ashore. All were happily saved by canoes from + the beach. There is a great abundance of pearl-shells to be found along + the shore, not valuable, but pretty. + </p> + <p> + The currency here is gold dust, which passes from hand to hand as freely + as coin bearing the impress of a monarch or a republic. The governor's + weights for gold are small beans; a brown one being equivalent to a + dollar, and a red one to fifty cents. + </p> + <p> + 22.—Ashore; and spent most of the day in the fortress; one of the + cool places of Africa. Situated on a high, rocky point of land, with the + sea on three sides, every breeze that stirs, however lightly, is sure to + be felt on the terraces of the castle of Axim; and they bring coolness + even at noontide, being tempered by the spray constantly rising from the + waves that dash against the rocks below. + </p> + <p> + There is great difficulty in procuring any supplies here, except wood and + water, and those at a high rate—seven dollars per cord for the + former, and one dollar for each hundred gallons of the latter; this, too, + including only the filling of the casks, and rolling them a short distance + on the beach. We found it impossible to purchase bullocks, sheep, or pigs, + and but very little poultry. The governor explained, that several + men-of-war had recently visited the settlement, and taken all the live + stock that could be spared, and that the war with Appollonia had cut off + the large supply formerly drawn from that country. The natives at this + place cannot furnish vessels with supplies, unless by the governor's + express permission; which, it is said, he does not grant, except upon + condition that they expend the proceeds in purchasing goods from him. One + of our stewards bought a roasting-pig, on shore; and the fact coming to + the ears of Governor Rhule, he notified the people that there would be a + palaver after our departure, for the discovery of the offender. The fine + for a transgression of this kind is two ounces of gold, or thirty-two + dollars. Let us imagine a village storekeeper, in our own country, + possessing supreme control over all the traffic of his neighbors—and + we shall have an idea of the relative position of the Governor of Axim and + the natives. Moreover, he is the general arbitrator, <i>ex officio</i>, + and expects that all awards shall be paid in cash, and that the successful + party spend the amount at his shop. + </p> + <p> + We learned from Governor Rhule, that the Dutch government, some years ago, + had sent agents from El Mina to Comassee, the capital of Ashantee, for the + purchase of slaves, to be employed in the wars between the Dutch East + India settlements and the natives of that region. Three thousand were thus + purchased, at forty dollars each, and transported to Batavia. Perhaps no + circumstance, possible to be conceived, could do more to strip war of its + poetry, than such a fact; and yet it is in good keeping with the character + of a shrewd, commercial, business-like people, endowed with more common + sense than chivalry or sensibility. A British general, in order to carry + on an expedition against a French colony, once entered into a similar + speculation; but it was indignantly annulled by his government. In the + present case, the exportation of slaves, to fight the battles of their + masters, ceased only two or three years since, on the termination of the + war. These servile soldiers continued in Batavia, except a few wounded + ones, who have been sent back to El Mina, and now reside there on + pensions. + </p> + <p> + Between Axim and Accra, both inclusive, there are six Dutch forts now + occupied and in repair, besides several which have been abandoned. I was + told that the annual cost of these establishments, to the home-government, + is not more than twenty thousand dollars; most of their expenses being + defrayed by duties, port-charges and other revenue accruing on the spot. + </p> + <p> + 24.—We left Axim yesterday, and anchored, last night, off the + British settlement at Dixcove. This morning, while heaving up the anchor, + a boat came off from the schooner Edward Burley of Bevaley, requesting + assistance, as her spars had been shivered by lightning. Soon after, the + commandant of the fort came on board, in a large and handsome canoe, + paddled by ten or twelve natives. The passengers sit in the bows, using + chairs or stools for seats, and protected from the surf and spray by the + high sides of the canoe. We dined on shore with the Governor, Mr. Swansey, + at his new residence, in the cool and refreshing atmosphere of a high + hill. The house is handsomely furnished in the English style. Mr. Swansey + has resided ten years on the coast, and was one of the persons examined + before the Committee of Parliament in reference to the state and affairs + of this region. There is a circumstance that connects this gentleman, + though but slightly, with poetic annals. Being at Cape Coast Castle at the + time of Mrs. McLean's death, he was one of the inquest that examined into + that melancholy event. His account confirms the general impression, that + her death was unpremeditated, and caused by an accidental over-dose of + prussic-acid, which she was in the habit of taking for spasms. She was + found alone, and nearly dead, behind the door of her apartment. Alas, poor + L.E.L.! It was certainly a strange and wild vicissitude of fate that made + it the duty of this respectable African merchant, in company with men of + similar fitness for the task, to "sit" upon the body—say, rather, on + the heart—of a creature so delicate, impassioned, and imaginative. + </p> + <p> + The native houses here are quite large; three or four being two stories + high, with balconies, built of stone, in the Spanish style. They are + furnished with sofas, bedsteads, and pictures. One elderly native received + us in a calico surtout, and gave us ale. Another wore the native garb, + with the long cloth folded around him and resting upon his shoulder, like + a Roman toga. He offered champagne, Madeira, gin, brandy, ale, and cigars, + and pressed us to partake, with a dignified and elegant hospitality. This + was Mr. Brace. He had a clerk (of native blood, but dressed in cap, + jacket, and pantaloons, in the English style), who spoke good English, and + was very gentlemanly. It is interesting to meet the natives of Africa at + so advanced a stage of refinement, yet retaining somewhat of their + original habits and character, which is of course entirely lost in the + Liberian colonists. + </p> + <p> + 25.—Spent the morning on shore, at the government-house, reading the + English newspapers, and enjoying the coolness of the position and the + society of the intelligent governor. I was interested in observing an + alligator, inhabiting a fresh-water pond, on the edge of the town. A + chicken being held out to him as a lure, he came out of the pond and + snapped at it, making a loud, startling noise with his teeth. He had + entirely emerged from his native element, and remained some fifteen + minutes on land, during which time he snapped five or six times at the + fowl, which was as often drawn away by a string. At length, seizing his + prey, he plunged with it into the water, dived, swam across the pond, and + rose to the surface on the other side, where he masticated his breakfast, + at his leisure. Three alligators inhabit this pond, and being regarded as + "fetishes," or charmed and sacred creatures, are never injured by the + natives. On their part, the amphibious monsters seem to cherish amicable + feelings towards the human race, and allow children to bathe and sport in + the pond, without injury or molestation. The reptile that I saw was seven + or eight feet long, with formidable teeth and scales. + </p> + <p> + Instead of the cassada and rice of the windward coast, corn is here the + principal food. After being pounded in their long mortars, it is ground + fine, by hand, between two stones like those used by painters, and is + mixed with palm-wine. + </p> + <p> + 28.—Having repaired the American schooner, and supplied her with one + of our spare topmasts, we are ready to sail to-day. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. + </h2> + <p> + Dutch Settlement at El Mina—Appearance of the Town—Cape Coast + Castle—Burial-place of L. E. L.—An English Dinner—Festivity + on Ship-board—British, Dutch, and Danish Accra—Native Wives of + Europeans—A Royal Princess—An Armadillo—Sail for St. + Thomas—Aspect of the Island. + </p> + <p> + <i>April</i> 29.—At 10 A.M., anchored off the Dutch settlement of El + Mina. The Governor's lieutenant boarded us in a large canoe, paddled by + about a score of blacks. A salute was fired by our ship, and returned from + the castle with a degree of splendor quite unexpected; for a portion of + the native town, situated beneath the castle-walls, was set on fire by the + wad of a cannon, and twenty or thirty houses burnt to the ground. On + landing, we received a message, intimating that the Governor would be glad + to see us, and consequently called upon him. He is a man of about thirty, + who came out in 1832, as a clerk, and has risen to be Governor, with the + military rank of lieutenant-colonel. All the civil officers have military + titles, and wear the corresponding uniforms, for effect upon the natives; + but the Dutch evince their shrewdness by placing practical men of + business, rather than soldiers, at the head of their colonial + establishments. The only officer of the regular army is a lieutenant, + commanding the guard, of one hundred men. + </p> + <p> + El Mina—the Mine—was built in 1482, or thereabouts, by the + Portuguese, whose early navigators have left tokens of their enterprise + all along this coast; although the achievements of those adventurous men + do but illustrate the nation's present supineness and decay. The + settlement was taken by the Dutch about a century after its foundation. + The main fortress is extensive, mounting ninety guns, and is capable of + withstanding the assault of a large force of regular troops. On an + eminence, above the town, is a second fort, apparently strong and in good + repair; and two small batteries are placed in commanding situations. + </p> + <p> + The houses in the town are built of stone, and thatched. The streets are + narrow, crooked, and dirty, imparting to the place the air of intricate + bewilderment of some of the old European cities. Much of the trade is done + in the streets, and entirely by women, who sit with their merchandize on + the ground before them, and their gold-scales in their laps, waiting for + customers. It would perhaps add to our manliness of character, if at least + the minor departments of traffic were resigned to the weaker sex, among + ourselves. Crossing a small river, we came to another, and by far the best + section, of the town. There are long, wide streets, two of which, meeting + at an obtuse angle, form together an extent of nearly a mile. A double row + of trees throw their shade over the central walk of this Alameda. At + intervals are seated groups of women-traders. The wares of some are + deposited upon the ground, while pieces of cloth are displayed to + advantage upon lines, stretching from tree to tree. + </p> + <p> + Before returning on board, we bespoke rings and chains of a native + goldsmith. The fashions of Africa are less evanescent than those of + Europe; and we may expect to see such ornaments as glittered on the bosom + of the Queen of Sheba. + </p> + <p> + <i>May</i> 2.—Sailed for Cape Coast Castle with the evening breeze. + </p> + <p> + 3.—At Cape Coast Castle. + </p> + <p> + The landing is effected in large canoes, which convey passengers close to + the rocks, safely and without being drenched, although the surf dashes + fifty feet in height. There is a peculiar enjoyment in being raised, by an + irresistible power beneath you, upon the tops of the high rollers, and + then dropped into the profound hollow of the waves, as if to visit the + bottom of the ocean, at whatever depth it might be. We landed at the + castle-gate, and were ushered into the castle itself, where the commander + of the troops received us in his apartment. + </p> + <p> + I took the first opportunity to steal away, to look at the burial-place of + L.E.L., who died here, after a residence of only two months, and within a + year after becoming the wife of Governor McLean. A small, white marble + tablet (inserted among the massive grey stones of the castle-wall, where + it faces the area of the fort) bears the following inscription:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Hic jacet sepultum + Omne quod mortale fuit + LETITIAE ELISABETHAE McLEAN, + Quam, egregiâ ornatam indole, + Musis unicè amatam; + Omniumque amores secum trahentem, + In ipso aetatis flore, + Mors immatura rapuit, + Die Octobris XV., A.D. MDCCCXXXVIII, + Ætat 36. + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Quod spectas viator marmor, + Vanum heu doloris monumentum, + Conjux moereng erexit. +</pre> + <p> + The first thought that struck me was the inappropriateness of the spot for + a grave, and especially for the grave of a woman, and, most of all, a + woman of poetic temperament. In the open area of the fort, at some + distance from the castle-wall, the stone pavement had been removed in + several spots, and replaced with plain tiles. Here lie buried some of the + many British officers who have fallen victims to the deadly atmosphere of + this region; and among them rests L.E.L. Her grave is distinguishable by + the ten red tiles which cover it. Daily, the tropic sunshine blazes down + upon the spot. Daily, at the hour of parade, the peal of military music + resounds above her head, and the garrison marches and counter-marches + through the area of the fortress, nor shuns to tread upon the ten red + tiles, any more than upon the insensible stones of the pavement. It may be + well for the fallen commander to be buried at his post, and sleep where + the reveille and roll-call may be heard, and the tramp of his + fellow-soldiers echo and re-echo over him. All this is in unison with his + profession; the drum and trumpet are his perpetual requiem; the soldier's + honorable tread leaves no indignity upon the dead warrior's dust. But who + has a right to trample on a woman's breast? And what had L.E.L. to do with + warlike parade? And wherefore was she buried beneath this scorching + pavement, and not in the retired shadow of a garden, where seldom any + footstep would come stealing through the grass, and pause before her + tablet? There, her heart, while in one sense it decayed, would burst forth + afresh from the sod in a profusion of spontaneous flowers, such as her + living fancy lavished throughout the world. But now, no verdure nor + blossom will ever grow upon her grave. + </p> + <p> + If a man may ever indulge in sentiment, it is over the ashes of a woman + whose poetry touched him in his early youth, while he yet cared anything + about either sentiment or poetry. Thus much, the reader will pardon. In + reference to Mrs. McLean, it may be added, that, subsequently to her + unhappy death, different rumors were afloat as to its cause, some of them + cruel to her own memory, others to the conduct of her husband. All these + reports appear to have been equally and entirely unfounded. It is well + established here, that her death was accidental. + </p> + <p> + We dined at the castle to-day, and met the officers of a new English brig, + the Sea-Lark, among whom I was happy to recognize Lieutenant B——, + an acquaintance at Mahon, and a messmate of my friend C——. All + these officers are gallant fellows; and the commencement of our + acquaintance promises to place them and ourselves on the most cordial + terms. The dinner, like other English dinners, was rather noisy, but + rendered highly agreeable by the perfect good feeling that prevailed. At + eight in the evening, we returned on board, though strongly urged to sleep + on shore by the Governor and all our other friends. Such hospitality, + though unquestionably sincere, and kindly meant, it was far better to + decline than accept; for it was much the same as if Death, in the hearty + tone of good-fellowship, had pressed us to quaff another cup and spend the + night under his roof. Had we complied, it would probably have cost the + lives of more than one of us. Our captain took wisdom by the sad + experience of the English brig, which had lost her purser and master by + just such a festivity, prolonged to a late hour, and finished by the + officers passing the night on shore. The fever of the climate punished + their imprudence. + </p> + <p> + All vessels, except those of our own navy, allow their officers to sleep + on shore. They expect to be taken sick, but hope that the first attack of + fever will season them. Possibly, this is as wise a course as the British + officers could adopt; for, unlike ourselves, they are compelled by duty to + trust themselves in pestiferous situations, particularly in the ascent of + rivers, where there is scarcely a chance of escaping the deadly influence + of the atmosphere. They therefore confront the danger at once, and either + fall beneath it, or triumph over it. + </p> + <p> + 4.—Governor McLean, and all the officers of the castle and brig, + dined on board. The table was laid on the quarter-deck, and was the scene + of much mirth and friendly sentiment. In the evening, the theatre was + open, with highly respectable performances; after which came a supper; and + the guests took their leave at midnight, apparently well-pleased. + </p> + <p> + 6.—We sailed yesterday from Cape Coast Castle, and anchored to-day + at Accra, abreast of the British and Dutch forts. + </p> + <p> + 7.—Early this morning, we were surrounded with canoes, filled with + articles for sale. The most remarkable were black monkey-skins. There are + seven vessels at anchor here, including our own, and an English + war-steamer. Three of the seven, a barque, brig, and schooner, are from + the United States. Landing in a canoe, we were met on the beach by the + Governor and some of his gentlemen, and escorted to the castle. Thence we + went to the residence of Mr. Bannerman. He is the great man of Accra, + wealthy, liberally educated in England, and a gentleman, although with a + deep tinge of African blood in his cheeks. But when native blood is + associated with gentlemanly characteristics and liberal acquirements, it + becomes, instead of a stigma of dishonor, an additional title to the + respect of the world; since it implies that many obstacles have been + overcome, in order to place the man where we find him. This, however, is a + view not often taken by those who labor under the misfortune (for such it + is, if they so consider it) of having African blood in their veins. + </p> + <p> + 8.—A missionary, on his way to the Gaboon, and two American + merchant-captains, Hunt and Dayley, dined with us in the ward-room. The + latter are respectable men. The missionary, Mr. Burchell, seems much + depressed. He has had the fever at Cape Palmas, the effects of which still + linger in his constitution; while his companion, the Rev. Mr. Campbell, + although but recently from America, has already finished his earthly + labors, and gone to his reward. We left them only a month ago at Cape + Palmas, in perfect health. + </p> + <p> + 9.—My impressions of Accra are more favorable than of any other + place which I have yet seen in Africa. British and Dutch Accra are + contiguous. The forts of the two nations are within a mile of each other, + situated on ground which, at a little distance, appears not unlike the + "bluffs" on our western rivers; level upon the summit, with a precipitous + descent, as if the land had "caved in" from the action of the water. The + country round is level, and nearly free from woods as far as the rise of + the hills, some ten miles distant. About three miles to the eastward, + Danish Accra shows its neat town and well-kept fortress. I did not visit + the place, but learn that it is fully equal to its neighbors. Thus, within + a circuit of three or four miles, the traveller may perform no + inconsiderable portion of the grand tour, visiting the territory of three + different countries of Europe, and observing their military and civil + institutions, their modes of business, their national characteristics, and + all assimilated by a general modification, resulting from the climate and + position in which they are placed. There seems to be an exchange of + courtesy and social kindness among the three settlements. Seven or eight + Europeans reside in the different forts; so that, together with the + captains of merchant-vessels in the roads, there are tolerable resources + of society. + </p> + <p> + All the Europeans have native wives, who dress in a modest, but peculiar + style, of which the lady of Mr. Bannerman may give an example. She wore a + close-fitting muslin chemisette, buttoned to the throat with gold buttons, + a black silk tunic extending to the thigh, a colored cotton cloth, + fastened round the waist and falling as low as the ankles, black silk + stockings and prunella shoes. This lady is jet black, of pleasing + countenance, and is a princess of royal blood. In the last great battle + between the Europeans on the coast and the powerful King of Ashantee (the + same who defeated and slew Sir Charles McCarthy), the native army was put + to total rout by the aid of Congreve rockets. The king's camp, with most + of his women, fell into the hands of the victors. Three of his daughters + were appropriated by the English merchants, here and at Cape Coast, and + became their faithful and probably happy wives. One of the three fell to + the lot of Mr. Bannerman, and is the lady whom I have described. These + women are entrusted with all the property of their husbands, and are + sometimes left for months in sole charge, while the merchants visit + England. The acting governor of the British fort, Mr. Topp, departs for + that country to-morrow, leaving his native wife at the head of affairs. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Bannerman is of Scottish blood by paternal descent, but African by the + mother's side, and English by education, and is a gentleman in manner and + feeling. He is the principal merchant here, and transacts a large business + with the natives, who come from two or three hundred miles in the + interior, and constantly crowd his yard. There they sit, in almost perfect + silence, receiving their goods, and making payment in gold-dust and ivory. + Towards us Mr. Bannerman showed himself most hospitable, yet in a + perfectly unostentatious manner. + </p> + <p> + Accra is the land of plenty in Africa. Beef, mutton, turkeys and chickens + abound; and its supply of European necessaries and luxuries is unequalled. + </p> + <p> + 10.—We got under way, yesterday, for the "Islands," a term well + understood to mean those of St. Thomas and Prince's. Mr. Bushnell (one of + the two missionaries who proposed to take passage with us from Cape + Palmas, a month since) is now on board as a passenger to Prince's Island. + The other, Mr. Campbell, is dead. He was of a wealthy and influential + family in Kentucky, and is said to have been a young man of extraordinary + talent and promise. + </p> + <p> + Yesterday we fired seventeen minute-guns, in obedience to an order from + the Navy-Department for the melancholy death of its chief, by the + explosion of the Princeton's gun. At twelve o'clock to-day, we fired + thirteen minute guns, as a tribute of respect to the memory of Commodore + Kennon, who fell a victim to the same disastrous accident. Alone on the + waters, months after the event, and five thousand miles from the scene of + his fate, we gave a sailor's requiem to a brave and accomplished officer. + </p> + <p> + 11.—Calm and sunny. Oh, how sunny!—and, alas, how calm! + </p> + <p> + At Accra, I received a present of an armadillo, or ant-eater, who is + certainly a wonderful animal, and well worth studying, in the tedium of a + calm between the tropics. The body proper is but about nine inches, but, + when stretched at length, he covers an extent of two and a half feet, from + head to tail, and is wholly fortified with an impenetrable armor of bony + scales. On any occasion of alarm, it is his custom to thrust his long nose + between his hind-legs and roll his body and tail compactly together, so as + to appear like the half of a ball, presenting no vulnerable part to an + enemy. In this condition he affords an excellent example of a + self-involved philosopher, defending himself from the annoyance of the + world by a stoical crustiness, and seeking all his enjoyment within his + own centre. His muscular strength being great, and especially that of his + fore-legs, it is very difficult to unroll him. An attempt being made to + force his coil, he sticks his fore-claws into the scales of his head, and + holds on with a death-like grip. At night, however, or when all is quiet, + he vouchsafes to unbend himself, and waddles awkwardly about on his short + legs, in pursuit of cockroaches, weevils and spiders. [Footnote: The + above-described ant-eater is properly the long-tailed Manis, being an + African species of the Pangolin. His scaly armor will turn a musket-ball. + This animal, with a few other natural and artificial curiosities from + Africa, has been deposited in the National collection, attached to the + Patent Office at Washington.] 18.—After many days of calm or light + winds, a stiff and fair breeze, for twenty-four hours past, has been + driving us rapidly on our course. We hope to see St. Thomas to-morrow. + </p> + <p> + 19.—Land was discovered at daylight; but the wind had again failed + us. It being Sunday, divine service was performed, and well performed, by + Mr. Bushnell. He has gained the respect and regard of all on board, by his + amiable, guileless disposition, and unassuming piety. + </p> + <p> + At noon the breeze freshened, and brought us within ten miles of the + island, by the close of day. St. Thomas is high, and possesses strong + features. One landmark is so singular as to strike every beholder most + forcibly. It is a rock, apparently not less than five hundred feet high, + and shaped like a light-house, towering into the air, about a third of the + distance from the southern extremity of the island. We are now within a + few miles of the equator; and sundry jokes, not unfamiliar to the nautical + Joe Miller, are passing through the ship, touching the appearance of "the + line." + </p> + <p> + 20.—A heavy tornado struck us last night. We were prepared for it, + however, with nothing on the ship but the topsail, clewed down, and the + fore-topmast-staysail. The last mentioned sail blew away, and the ship lay + over with her guns in the water. In five minutes, nevertheless, we were + going before the wind and away from shore. + </p> + <p> + The appearance of the island is pleasant. A high volcanic peak, hills + covered with wood, and spots of ground reminding us of the lawns or + pasture-lands of our own country. On these tracts not a tree or a bush is + visible for acres together; but whether the soil was left naked by nature, + or rendered so by cultivation, is yet to be ascertained. A ruined chapel + on the top of a hill, a large mansion, apparently unoccupied, on the + shore, and a few huts among the cocoa-trees, are the only evidences that + men have ever been here. Several canoes have now come off to us, bringing + fruit and shells. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. + </h2> + <p> + Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves—Mode of drying Coffee—Black + Priests—Madame Domingo's Hotel—Catering for the Mess—Man + swallowed by a Shark—Letters from Home—Fashionable Equipage—Arrival + at the Gaboon—King Glass and Louis Philippe—Mr. Griswold—Mr. + and Mrs. Wilson—Character of the Gaboon People—Symptoms of + Illness. + </p> + <p> + <i>May</i> 22.—I have just returned from an excursion to St. Anne de + Chaves, the capital of St. Thomas. Leaving the ship, yesterday, at 9 A.M., + we landed, but did not find the horses which had been ordered from the + city. Deeming it unadvisable to wait, three of the party started on foot, + and two in the "gig" (not the land-vehicle of that name), which was to + proceed on the same destination. After walking three or four miles along + the beach, we met two of the six horses expected. These served to mount a + pair of us, while the third, with the guide and boys, proceeded on foot; + it being arranged that we should travel in the old-fashioned mode of "ride + and tie." Most of the distance was across open land, without a tree or + shrub, but overgrown with coarse, high grass. The whole appearance was + that of a western prairie, but without the grandeur of its extent, or the + flowers that attract the traveller, when wearied with the immensity of + prospect. The soil, like that of the cocoa-nut groves, is a black, deep, + fertile loam. + </p> + <p> + In two hours, we arrived at St. Anne de Chaves. The town is spread out + upon the circular shore of the bay, nearly half a mile in extent, and is + defended by a stone fort, situated on the extreme point of the cape. There + are three or four hundred houses, which, with few exceptions, are small, + and constructed of wood. A long stone building is appropriated as the + residence of the governor, and contains the public offices. The only + remarkable edifices besides, are a large wooden church, looking very like + a barn, and a smaller one of stone. The streets are unpaved, but kept + remarkably clean, and not without an especial reason. The great, and + almost only, article of commerce is coffee, which is kept in the houses, + and dried daily in the streets. As soon as the sun is up, therefore, + servants sweep the streets, as carefully as if it were a parlor-floor, and + bring out large quantities of coffee, which they spread upon the ground to + dry. At night, it is carried in. More than half the street, at the proper + season, is covered with coffee yet in the husk. The exports of this + article amount annually to about a million of pounds, producing from + seventy to eighty thousand dollars. The only whites residing on the + island, with one exception, are about sixty Portuguese; the number of + colored inhabitants is estimated at fifteen thousand. + </p> + <p> + Black priests are plenty in the streets, walking about in bombazine robes, + with the crisp hair shaven from their crowns. The Jesuits invariably + followed hard upon the heels of the early Portuguese adventurers, in their + African discoveries; but I am not aware that their efforts to Catholicise + the natives have anywhere produced such permanent results, as in this + island. To be sure, the religion of the inhabitants seems to amount to + little more than the practice of a few external rites; for they have both + the appearance and character of dishonesty and treachery, and are said to + be addicted to all sorts of vice. So far as the black priests possess any + influence, however, it is believed to be used conscientiously, and with + excellent effect; nor, though provoked to smile at these queer specimens + of the cloth, could I indulge the impulse without being self-convicted of + narrowness and illiberally. St. Augustine, and other Fathers of the + church, if I have heard aright, were of the same sable hue as the priests + of St. Anne de Chaves. + </p> + <p> + The currency of the island is wretched. Coppers are the sole coin in use, + in all domestic transactions, and pass at ten times their intrinsic value. + They are said to be introduced mainly by the American merchantmen, who do + most of the trade with the island. + </p> + <p> + The foreign business is chiefly transacted by Mr. Lippitt, a Hamburgh + merchant, at whose house we were hospitably received. He set his best fare + before us; and some of the party not only ate at his table, but slept + beneath his roof. The others took lodgings at the house of Madam Domingo, + a fat black lady, whose first husband, a merchant of considerable + business, had left her a large mansion, several slaves, some children, and + other desirable property. A young, dandy-looking negro succeeded to the + vacant place in her house and heart, and now does the honors of the + establishment. The largest room had a singular aspect of familiarity to + our eyes; its walls being adorned with prints of American origin, among + which were portraits of all the Presidents of the United States, previous + to General Harrison. These, perhaps, were the gift of some + merchant-captain to his hospitable landlady; or, more probably, they had + been hung up in compliment to the national sensibilities of Madam + Domingo's most frequent guests. Tawdry mirrors and chandeliers completed + the decoration of the apartment. A supper of coffee and hard-boiled eggs, + beds harder than the eggs, and a bill equally difficult of digestion, + comprise all that is further to be said of the fashionable hotel of St. + Anne de Chaves. After a good breakfast with our Hamburgh friend, we all + embarked in the gig, and, spreading our canvass to the breeze, reached the + ship in an hour and ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + 23.—Ashore with the caterer of the mess, marketing for sea-stores; a + difficult task among a set of people who, though poor, care little about + making a profit by selling what they have. Many of them would not take + money, requiring in payment some article of clothing, especially shirts, + or, as the next grand desideratum, trowsers. By careful research among the + small plantations we were able to pick up a few goats, pigs, and fowls, + and came off with materials to keep the mess in good humor for at least + ten days. None but sea-faring men can appreciate the great truth, that + amiability is an affair of the stomach, and that the disposition depends + upon the dinner. + </p> + <p> + We found the soil very fertile. Groves of cocoa-nuts cover many acres + together. Beneath the shade, coffee trees were in full bearing; and + bananas, plantains, and corn, flourished luxuriantly. The people are all + blacks, speak Portuguese, and—a circumstance that affords the + voyager an agreeable variety, after seeing so much nakedness—wear + clothes. Their habitations are scattered among the trees. It is usual to + have one house for rainy weather, for sleeping, and for storage, and + another as a kitchen, and for occupation during the day. The first is + close, the other has merely corner-posts, supporting a roof sufficiently + light to make a shade. + </p> + <p> + Part of the day was spent in picking up shells upon the shore. + Occasionally, I unhoused a "soldier-crab," who had taken up free quarters + in some unoccupied cone, and became so delighted with its shelter as never + to move without dragging it at his heels along the sand. + </p> + <p> + 24.—6 P.M., a horrid accident has just occurred. As the gig was + coming alongside, under sail, the tiller broke, and the coxswain who was + steering, fell overboard. He was a good swimmer, and struck out for the + ship, not thirty yards distant, while the boat fell off rapidly to the + leeward. In less than half a minute, a monstrous shark rose to the + surface, seized the poor fellow by the body, and carried him instantly + under. Two hundred men were looking on, without the power to afford + assistance. We beheld the water stained with crimson for many yards around—but + the victim was seen no more! Once only, a few seconds after his + disappearance, the monster rose again to the surface, displaying a length + of well nigh twenty feet, and then his immense tail above the water, as if + in triumph and derision. It was like something preternatural; and terribly + powerful he must have been, to take under so easily, and swallow, in a + moment, one of the largest and most athletic men in the ship. Poor Ned + Martin! + </p> + <p> + 25.—Again visited the town, where we found an American brig, the + Vintage of Salem, Captain Frye. She is from the South Coast, homeward + bound, with a cargo of gum copal. The Captain had some letters for the + squadron, which were now eleven months old. My own gave an account of the + President's visit to Boston, the Bunker Hill Celebration, and other events + of that antediluvian date. Epistolary communication is, at the best, a + kind of humbug. What was new and true, when written, has become trite and + false, before it can be read. It assures of nothing—not even of the + existence of the writer; for his hand may have grown cold, since the + characters which it traced began their weary voyage in quest of us; and + all of which we can be absolutely certain is, that many unexpected events + have happened, and many expected ones have failed to happen, betwixt the + sealing of the letter and the unfolding it again. Until the ocean be + converted into an electric telegraph, through which intelligence will + thrill in an instant, there can be no real communication between the + sailor and his far-off friends. And yet, after all, how pleasant it is to + write letters!—how much pleasanter to receive them! I acknowledged + the receipt of these musty epistles, by the same vessel that conveyed them + to me. + </p> + <p> + I have seen but one equipage in the capital of St. Thomas, but that was a + sufficiently remarkable one; a small, three-wheeled vehicle, like a + velocipede, with a phaeton-top to it. Drawn by two negroes, and pushed by + three, it rolled briskly to the door of the church, and there deposited a + plump and youthful dame, as black as ebony. From the deference shown her + by the priests, I inferred that it was my good fortune to behold the + leading belle of St. Anne de Chaves. + </p> + <p> + After dining with Mr. Lippitt, we returned to the boats, and got safely on + shipboard before dark. My impressions of St. Thomas and its delightful + climate are highly favorable. A visit to an island has generally more of + interest and amusement than one to a spot on the continent, because the + secluded position of the inhabitants imparts an originality and raciness + to their modes of life. + </p> + <p> + 27.—Got under way yesterday morning for the Gaboon. Today the wind + has been favorable, and we are now at anchor for the night, off the mouth + of the river, five miles from land. + </p> + <p> + 28.—At 4 P.M., anchored within three miles of the missionary + establishment. Mr. Bushnell took his leave, respected by us all, as a + pious, unpretending, sensible, and amiable man. + </p> + <p> + 29.—Ashore. We found our friends well, and glad to see us. They are + comfortably situated in large houses, made of bamboos, and thatched with + the bamboo-leaves sewed together. These present an airy, cool, and light + appearance, highly suitable to a tropical region, and yet are impervious + to rain. + </p> + <p> + We visited the house of King Glass, where several of the chiefs assembled + to talk a palaver. They are apprehensive of difficulties with the French, + and wish the English and Americans to interpose. According to their story, + the commandant of a French fort, three miles distant, had attempted, a + short time ago, to procure a cession of their territory. This they + constantly refused, declaring their intention to keep the country open for + trade with all nations, and allow exclusive advantages to none. After + several trials, the commandant apparently relinquished his purpose. A + French merchant-captain now appeared, who ingratiated himself into the + favor of the simple King Glass, invited him to a supper, and made his + majesty and the head-man drunk. While in this condition, he procured the + signatures of the King and two or three chiefs to a paper, which he + declared to be merely a declaration of friendship towards the French, but + which proved to be a cession of certain rights of jurisdiction. Next + morning, the French fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honor of the + treaty between Louis Philippe and King Glass, and sent presents which the + natives refused to receive. They now apprehend a forcible seizure of their + territory by the French, and desire our interposition, as calculated to + prevent such a national calamity. Our captain, however, declined to + interfere, or to express any opinion in the premises, on the ground that + it was not his province to judge of such matters abroad, unless the + interests of Americans were involved. + </p> + <p> + The missionaries have perhaps some agency in this movement. They see the + probability that the Catholic priests will follow them to the Gaboon, and + subvert their influence with the natives. + </p> + <p> + 31.—In the morning I visited Mr. Griswold's place, about two miles + from Baracca, the residence of Mr. Wilson. The former establishment was + commenced only eight months ago; and already there are two buildings + finished, and two more nearly so, all of bamboo. The ground is more + fertile than that occupied by Mr. Wilson, and has been brought thus + seasonably into a good state of cultivation. Mr. Griswold is a Vermonter, + a practical farmer, and an energetic man, and doubtless turns his + agricultural experience to good account, great as is the difference + between the bleak hills of New England, and this equatorial region. His + lady, an interesting woman, is just recovering from fever. + </p> + <p> + After an agreeable visit, we returned to the ship, accompanied by Mr. and + Mrs. Griswold, and there found Mr. Wilson and lady, and Mr. James and his + daughter. They all dined and spent the day on board. Mr. Wilson is well + known in America by reputation, and is one of the most able and judicious + among the three hundred missionaries, whom the American Board sends forth + throughout the world. Here at Gaboon, he preaches to the natives in their + own language, which he represents as being very soft, and easy of + acquirement. The people frequent divine services with great regularity, + and are at least attentive listeners, if not edified by what they hear. + Mrs. Wilson is a lady of remarkable zeal and energy. Reared in luxury, in + a Southern city, she liberated her slaves, gave up a handsome fortune to + the uses of missions, and devoted herself to the same great cause, in that + region of the earth where her faith and fortitude were likely to be most + severely tried. It is now six years since she came to Africa; and she has + never faltered for a moment. Having had the good fortune, on a former + cruise, to make the acquaintance of Mrs. Wilson, at Cape Palmas, I was + happy to renew it here. I have seldom met with a person so well fitted to + adorn society, and never with one in whose high motives of action and + genuine piety I had more confidence. + </p> + <p> + The natives at the Gaboon, to whom these excellent people are sacrificing + themselves, are said to present more favorable points of character than + those in most other parts of Africa. They are mild in their manners, + friendly to Europeans and Americans, and disposed to imitate them in dress + and customs. They own many slaves among themselves, but treat them with + singular gentleness, and never sell them to foreigners. They are very + indolent, and make no adequate improvement of their advantages for + agriculture and trade. Their country is excellent for grazing, and the + cattle of the best kind; but they take so little forethought as to sell + even the last cow, should a purchaser offer. Consequently, there are + hardly more than thirty cattle left in a tract of country capable, in its + present state, of sustaining a thousand. + </p> + <p> + King Glass is an old man, much inclined to drink, yet more regular than + any of his subjects in attendance at church. Toko, a headman, is very + shrewd and intelligent, and highly spoken of by Mr. Wilson, in reference + to his moral qualities. Will Glass, nephew to the King, is blessed with a + couple of dozen wives, and seldom moves without a train of five or six of + them in attendance. He paid a visit to our ship in a full-dress English + uniform, said to have cost three hundred dollars. On the other side of the + river lives King Will, a great man, and with the reputation of a polished + gentleman. The slave-trade is carried on in this King's dominions; and, + while I write, a Spanish slaver lies at anchor off his town, waiting for + her human cargo. + </p> + <p> + <i>June</i> 1.—Got under way, and went down the river about three + miles, when, the wind failing, we anchored. At 3 P.M., we started again, + and stood out to sea. Mr. Wilson accompanied us to the mouth of the river, + and there left us, bearing back our hearty good wishes for his personal + prosperity and that of the mission. + </p> + <p> + 2.—At 12, meridian, we have made the run to the island of St. + Thomas, and are now about fifteen miles to the northward of it. + </p> + <p> + 3.—The wind is still sufficiently fresh and fair to enable us to + make seven knots westing; the great desideratum. Four months we have been + running away from our letters; and now we go to meet them. Blow, breezes, + blow, and waft us swiftly onward! + </p> + <p> + 4.—A continuance of favorable winds. I am not well to-day. Slight + headache, and heaviness of feeling—no great matter—but these + are ominous symptoms, on the coast of Africa. + </p> + <p> + 5.—One year since we left America; a year not without incident and + interest. We are still on the first parallel of north latitude, and going + nine. I am under the surgeon's hands, apprehending a fever, but hoping to + throw it off. + </p> + <p> + 6.—We have made two hundred and twenty miles within the last + twenty-four hours; and still the breeze does not slacken. Much better in + health. Bless the man who first invented Doctors! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. + </h2> + <p> + Recovery from Fever—Projected Independence of Liberia—Remarks + on Climate and Health—Peril from Breakers—African Arts—Departure + for the Cape de Verds—Man Overboard. + </p> + <p> + June 18.—A weary blank! Since my last date, I have had the coast + fever, caught by sleeping on shore, at St. Anne de Chaves, and am now just + recovering my physical force. My sickness was accompanied with little + bodily pain, but with great prostration of strength. Able medical advice, + and kind and judicious treatment, have brought me up a little; and, with + the help of God, I may again call myself well, in a week or two more. But + there is great danger of relapses, caution! + </p> + <p> + We are now at Monrovia, having made the passage from the river Gaboon, + hitherward, in seven days and fourteen hours, from anchorage to anchorage—an + unprecedented run! The Macedonian has been here, and is gone. + </p> + <p> + 19.—Still better this morning. The sky looks brighter than before; + the woods seem greener, and cast a lovelier shade; the surf breaks more + gracefully along the beach; and the natives, paddling their canoes around + the ship, look more human—more like brethren. Returning health gives + a more beautiful aspect to all things. It is almost worth while to have + been brought so low by sickness, for the sake of the freshness of body and + spirit, the renewed youth, the tenderer susceptibility to all good + impressions, which make my present consciousness so delightful. It is like + being new-created, and placed in a new world. Life, to the convalescent, + looks as fair and promising as if he had never tried it, and been weary of + it. + </p> + <p> + 20.—Still improving. The fine weather of yesterday and to-day + invigorates and cheers me. Lieutenant Governor Benedict and some friends + are expected on board, by special invitation. We pay much attention to the + persons in authority here; it being the policy of our government to + befriend and countenance the colonies. I hear that a serious effort is now + in progress, at this place, to declare Liberia independent of the + Colonization Society, and set up a republic. Lieutenant Governor Benedict + and Mr. Teage are said to be at the head of the movement. Both are men of + talent. Mr. Teage formerly edited the Liberia Herald, and preached in the + Baptist Church, where his services were most emphatically gratuitous; for + he not only ministered without a stipend, but supplied a place of worship—the + sacred edifice being his own private property. He is certainly one of the + ablest, if not the very ablest, writer and preacher in the colony. The + project above-mentioned seems to me an unwise one; but benefits, which do + not now appear, may possibly be obtained by sundering the relations + between the settlement and the parent society. Much is expected from + England. That nation, however, can never feel a maternal interest in the + colony, nor will do for it what the Society has all along done, and + continues to do. + </p> + <p> + 21.—Still stronger. I am now able to resume my place at the + mess-table. But care is necessary to avoid a relapse. It is one of the + worst features of this disease, that it appears to continue in the system + for many months after the patient's recovery, and to renew its attacks + upon the slightest exposure. Most persons find it necessary to leave the + coast, in order to the re-establishment of their health. I am not the only + convalescent on board the ship. Mr. Ewal, a young Danish supercargo, is + here for a few days, to try the benefit of a change of air, and enjoy the + attendance of a regular physician. He has been on shore above a month, + sick of the fever, under the charge of Dr. Prout, a colored practitioner. + Our captain pitied his condition, invited him on board, and, with his + uniform kindness, took him into the cabin, where, in only three days, he + has already improved wonderfully. + </p> + <p> + 27.—A sunny day, after three or four dull and rainy ones. My health + is now so far restored, that I shall insert no more bulletins. I owe much + to the care of our surgeon, who is very able and attentive, and has seen + much yellow-fever practice, in the West Indies. The assistant-surgeon is + also an excellent and an untiring officer. My fever, like the other cases + which have happened on board, was of a bilious kind. All foreigners make + themselves liable to it, either in its milder or more aggravated forms, by + sleeping even a single night on shore; but, according to Dr. Hall, a + physician of great experience on the coast, health may be preserved for an + indefinite period, by the simple precaution of sleeping always on + ship-board, at a very moderate distance from land. This does not + altogether coincide with my own observations. It is true, that during + eight or ten months after the arrival of a ship upon the coast, the health + of her crew will probably continue good, if they neither sleep on shore + nor ascend the rivers. But, if exposed for a longer period to the + enervating influences of the unceasing heat, and the frequent penetrating + rains, it may reasonably be expected that any ship's company will be + broken down, even though not a single death may occur. In our own ship, we + have recently had many cases of fever, where the patients have neither + slept on shore, nor been exposed to the peculiar malaria of rivers. + Doubtless, however, the fever of the country, where all due precautions + have been used, will be much lighter on board, than on shore. But the + patients will be liable to frequent relapses, and a complete recovery will + be almost out of the question, without a change of climate. It is another + objection to the long continuance of ships on this station, that all + wounds or injuries, however slight, have a tendency to become obstinate + and dangerous sores, which incapacitate these afflicted from performing + any duty. + </p> + <p> + Besides the coast fever (which, Dr. Hall remarks, he has never known an + emigrant completely to escape), there is an intermittent fever, against + which no acclimation will protect the colonist, any more than against the + bilious fever of America. The Rev. Mr. James, a colored missionary, told + me, that, for seven years, he had been accustomed to suffer attacks of + fever, once in every four or five weeks. + </p> + <p> + The natives of this country are as healthy as any people under Heaven. A + benignant Providence has adapted the climate, soil, and productions, of + every part of the globe to the constitutions of those races of mankind + which it has placed there. Nor is Africa an exception. In spite of her + desolating wars, and the immense drain of her children through the slave + trade which for centuries has checked the increase of population, she is + still a populous country. The aboriginal natives, unless killed through + superstition or cruelty, survive to an almost patriarchal longevity. The + colored people of America, or any other part of the world, may be regarded + as borrowed from Africa, and inheriting a natural adaptation to her soil + and climate. Such emigrants, therefore, may be expected to suffer less + than the whites, in the process of acclimation, and may, in due time, find + their new residence more genial to their constitutions, than those which + they have quitted. At all events, their children will probably flourish + here, and attain a fulness of physical, and perhaps moral and intellectual + perfection, which the colored race has fallen short of, in other regions. + </p> + <p> + As the country becomes cleared and cultivated, the mortality of the + emigrants decreases. It is asserted to be one-third less, at this period, + than it was ten years ago. The statistics of Cape Palmas show the + population to be on the increase, independently of immigration. Dr. Hall + affirmed (but, I should imagine, with unusual latitude of expression) + that, in the sickliest season ever known at Cape Palmas, the rate of + mortality was lower than that of the free colored population in Baltimore, + in an ordinary year. In another generation, this may no doubt be said with + perfect accuracy. + </p> + <p> + 28.—Last night, the Porpoise came in, and anchored inside of us. As + we lay unusually near the shore, and as the wind was rising, with a heavy + swell, the brig found herself, this morning, in a dangerous position. She + sent us a boat, to say that she was dragging her anchor, and to ask for a + hawser. This was immediately supplied; but, before we could give her the + end of it, she had drifted into the breakers. She hoisted her colors, + union down, and was momentarily expected to strike. At this instant, a + tremendous roller swamped one of our boats, and left the men swimming for + their lives. The other boats went to their assistance, and providentially + succeeded in rescuing them all. Meantime, the brig made sail, and, by the + help of our hawser, was able to keep her wind, and got out to sea, leaving + both her anchors behind. + </p> + <p> + Soon after the Porpoise was saved, we found ourselves likewise in equal + peril. The breakers began to whiten about the ship. The wind was not + violent, but the swell was terrible; and the long rollers filled the bay, + breaking in forty feet of water, and covering the sea with foam. Our + anchors held tolerably well; but we dragged slowly, until, from seven + fathoms, we had shoaled our water to four and a half. A council of the + officers being called, it was determined to get under way. A hawser and + stream-anchor being sent out, in order to bring the ship's head in the + proper direction for making sail, the cables were slipped. It was a moment + of intense interest; for, had the rollers or the wind inclined the ship + from her proper course, we must inevitably have been lost; but she stood + out beautifully, and soon left all peril astern. + </p> + <p> + There were still three merchant-vessels at anchor; the American barque + Reaper, a Bremen brig, and a Hamburg schooner. While we had our own danger + to encounter, we thought the less of our fellow-sufferers; but, after our + escape, it was painful to think of leaving them in jeopardy. To the + American barque (which lay inshore of us, with her colors union down) we + sent a boat, with sixteen Kroomen, by whose assistance she was saved. The + Bremen brig had her colors at half-mast, appealing to us for aid. She was + nearer to the shore than the other vessels, and lay in the midst of the + breakers, which frequently covered her from stem to stern. Her escape + seemed impossible; and her cargo, valued at thirty thousand dollars, would + have been considered a dear purchase at a thirtieth of that sum. We gave + her all the help in our power, and not without effect; but her salvation, + under Providence, was owing to a strong tide, which was setting out of the + river, and counteracted the influence of wind and swell. Finally, we had + the satisfaction to see all the vessels, one after another, come off safe. + </p> + <p> + During this scene, there was great commotion on shore, the people + evidently expecting one or all of us to be lost. When the Porpoise got + off, the Kroomen on the beach raised a great shout of joy. + </p> + <p> + 29.—There is a very heavy sea this morning, with no prospect of its + immediately subsiding. The Kroomen say that it will last four days from + its commencement. It must have been terrific in the bay, last night. All + the vessels are in sight, keeping off till the swell abates. We have left + two boats behind us, and two anchors, besides the stream-anchor. There has + been nothing like this storm, since our arrival on the coast. + </p> + <p> + <i>July</i> 2.—Again at anchor. + </p> + <p> + As we shall soon have done with Liberia, I must not forget to insert, + among the motley records of this journal, some account of its ants. The + immense number of these insects, which infest every part of the land, is a + remarkable provision in the economy of Africa, as well as of other + tropical countries. Though very destructive to houses, fences, and other + articles of value, their ravages are far more than repaid by the benefits + bestowed; for they act as scavengers in removing the great quantity of + decaying vegetable matter, which would otherwise make the atmosphere + intolerable. They perform their office both within doors and without. + Frequently, the "drivers," as they are called, enter houses in myriads, + and, penetrating to the minutest recesses, destroy everything that their + omnivorous appetite can render eatable. Whatever has the principle of + decay in it, is got rid of at once. All vermin meet their fate from these + destroyers. Food, clothing, necessaries, superfluities, mere trash, and + valuable property, are alike in their regard, and equally acceptable to + their digestive powers. They would devour this journal with as little + compunction as so much blank paper—and a sermon as readily as the + journal—nor would either meal lie heavy on their stomachs. They + float on your coffee, and crawl about your plate, and accompany the + victuals to your mouth. + </p> + <p> + The ants have a Queen, whom the colonists call Bugga-Bug. Her subjects are + divided into three classes; the Laborers, who do nothing but work—the + Soldiers, who do nothing but fight—and the Gentry, who neither work + nor fight, but spend their lives in the pleasant duty of continuing their + species. The habitations of these insects, as specimens of mechanical + ingenuity, are far superior to the houses of the natives, and are really + the finest works of architecture to be met with on the African coast. In + height, these edifices vary from four to fifteen or twenty feet, and are + sometimes ten or twelve feet in diameter at the base. They contain + apartments for magazines, for nurseries, and for all other domestic, + social, and public purposes, communicating with one another, and with the + exterior, by innumerable galleries and passages. The clay, which forms the + material of the buildings, is rendered very compact, by a glutinous + matter, mixed with earth; and all the passages, many of which extend great + distances under ground, are plastered with the same kind of stucco. + Captain Tuckey, in his expedition to the river Zaire, discovered ant-hills + composed of similar materials to the above, but which, in shape, precisely + resembled gigantic toad-stools, as high as a one-story house. In this part + of Africa, they have the form of a mound. At the present day, when the + community-principle is attracting so much attention, it would seem to be + seriously worth while for the Fourierites to observe both the social + economy and the modes of architecture of these African ants. Providence + may, if it see fit, make the instincts of the lower orders of creation a + medium of divine revelations to the human race: and, at all events, the + aforesaid Fourierites might stumble upon hints, in an ant-hill, for the + convenient arrangement of those edifices, which, if I mistake not, they + have christened Phalanxteries. + </p> + <p> + 8.—At 11 A.M., got under way for the Cape de Verds. + </p> + <p> + 10.—Calm in the morning, and predictions of a long passage. At noon, + sprung up a ten-knot breeze; and are sanguine of making a short run. In + the evening, at the tea-table, we were talking of the delights of + Saratoga, at this season, and contrasting the condition of the fortunate + visitors to that fashionable resort, with that of the sallow, debilitated, + discontented cruisers on the African station. In the midst of the + conversation, the cry of "man overboard," brought us all on deck with a + rush. There was not much sea, though we were going seven knots. The man + kept his head well above water, and swam steadily toward the life-buoy, + which floated at a short distance from him—his only hope—while + the wide Atlantic was yawning around him, eager for his destruction. We + watched him anxiously, until he seized it, and then thought of sharks. We + were too far at sea, however, for many of these monsters to be in + attendance. In a few moments a boat picked up man and buoy, and the ship + was on her course again. + </p> + <p> + 21.—Anchored at Porto Praya. + </p> + <p> + The season of journalizing, to any good purpose, is over. Scenes and + objects in this region have been so often presented to my eyes, that they + now fail to make the vivid impressions which could alone enable me (were + that ever possible) to weave them into a lively narrative of my + adventures. My entries therefore, for the rest of the cruise, are likely + to be "few, and far between." + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX + </h2> + <p> + Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea—The Gar-Fish—The Booby and + the Mullet—Improvement of Liberia—Its Prospects—Higher + social position of its Inhabitants—Intercourse between the White and + Colored Races—A Night on Shore—Farewell to Liberia.—Reminiscence + of Robinson Crusoe. + </p> + <p> + <i>September</i> 1.—At Porto Grande. + </p> + <p> + To-day, as for many previous days, the water has been beautifully clear. + The massive anchor and the links of the chain-cable, which lay along the + bottom, were distinctly visible upon the sand, full fifty feet below. + Hundreds of fish—the grouper, the red snapper, the noble baracouta, + the mullet, and many others, unknown to northern seas—played round + the ship, occasionally rising to seize some floating food, that perchance + had been thrown overboard. With my waking eye, I beheld the bottom of the + sea as plainly as Clarence saw it in his dream; although, indeed, here + were few of the splendid and terrible images that were revealed to him:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "A thousand fearful wrecks; + A thousand men that fishes gnawed upon; + Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl, + Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels." +</pre> + <p> + Nevertheless, it was a sight that seemed to admit me deeper into the + liquid element than I had ever been before. Now and then came the long, + slender gar-fish, and, with his sword-like beak, struck some unhappy fish + which tempted his voracity. I watched the manoeuvres of the destroyer and + his victims, with no little interest. The fish (which, in the two + instances particularly observed, was the mullet) came instantly to the + surface, on being struck, and sprang far out of water. He swam on his side + with a circular motion, keeping his head above the surface. From time to + time he leaped into the air, spasmodically, and in a fit of painful agony; + for it could not be from alarm, as the foe was nowhere visible. Gradually, + his strength failed, and his efforts became feebler, and still more + feeble. + </p> + <p> + The fates of the two mullets were different. One received a second blow + from the inexorable gar-fish, which, for a moment, increased his agony and + his exertions. He then lay motionless upon the surface, at rest from all + trouble. The conqueror came a third time, seized his prey, and swam + swiftly out of sight. + </p> + <p> + The other mullet, which rose half an hour afterwards, swam closer to the + ship than his predecessor, and received no second blow. While the poor + fellow was yet in the death-struggle, came two great sable birds, with + bills, wings, and legs, like those of the heron. Flapping their dark wings + in the air, they circled round, and repeatedly swooped almost upon the + dying fish. But he was not doomed to be their victim. Presently, with his + brown back, white breast, and pink bill, came flapping along a booby, and, + without a moment's hesitation, stooped upon the mullet, and appeared to + swallow him in the twinkling of an eye. The fish was at least six inches + in length, and the bird not twice as much. How so liberal a morsel could + be so quickly disposed of, was a marvel to a dozen idlers, who had been + curiously observing this game of life and death to one party, and a dinner + to the other. Certainly, the booby carried off the fish. Borne down by the + weight of his spoil, the feathered gormandizer alighted on the water—rested + himself for a moment—rose again, and re-alighted—and in this + manner, with many such intervals of repose, made his way to the shore. + </p> + <p> + 25.—At 1 P.M., sailed for the Coast, in company with the Truxton. + </p> + <p> + 26.—Anchored off Cape Mesurado. + </p> + <p> + It is now fourteen months since our ship first visited Monrovia. Within + that period there has been a very perceptible improvement in its + condition. The houses are in better repair; the gardens under superior + cultivation. There is an abundant supply of cattle, which have been + purchased from the natives. More merchant-vessels now make this their + port, bringing goods hither, and creating a market for the commodities, + live stock, and vegetables, of the colonists. An increased amount of money + is in circulation; and the inhabitants find that they can dispose of the + products of their industry for something better than the cloth and + tobacco, which they were formerly obliged to take in payment. The squadron + of United States men-of-war, if it do no other good, will at least have an + essential share in promoting the prosperity of Liberia. + </p> + <p> + After having seen much, and reflected upon the subject even to weariness, + I write down my opinion, that Liberia is firmly planted, and is destined + to increase and prosper. This it will do, though all further support from + the United States be discontinued. A large part of the present population, + it is true, are ignorant, and incompetent to place a just estimate on + freedom, or even to comprehend what freedom really is. But they are + generally improving in this respect; and there is already a sufficient + intermixture of intelligent, enterprising and sagacious men, to give the + proper tone to the colony, and insure its ultimate success. The great + hope, however, is in the generation that will follow these original + emigrants. Education is universally diffused among the children; and its + advantages, now beginning to be very manifest, will, in a few years, place + the destinies of this great enterprise in the hands of men born and bred + in Africa. Then, and not till then, will the experiment of African + colonization, and of the ability of the colonists for self-support and + self-government, have been fairly tried. My belief is firm in a favorable + result. + </p> + <p> + Meantime, it would be wiser in the Colonization Society, and its more + zealous members, to moderate their tone, and speak less strongly as to the + advantages held out by Liberia. Unquestionably, it is a better country + than America, for the colored race. But they will find it very far from a + paradise. Men, who expect to become independent and respectable, can only + achieve their object here on the same terms as everywhere else. They must + cultivate their minds, be willing to exert themselves, and not look for a + too easy or too rapid rise of fortune. One thing is certain. People of + color have here their fair position in the comparative scale of mankind. + The white man, who visits Liberia, be he of what rank he may, and however + imbued with the prejudice of hue, associates with the colonists on terms + of equality. This would be impossible (speaking not of individuals, but of + the general intercourse between the two races) in the United States. The + colonist feels his advantage in this respect, and reckons it of greater + weight in the balance than all the hardships to which he is obliged to + submit, in an unwonted climate and a strange country. He is redeemed from + ages of degradation, and rises to the erect stature of humanity. On this + soil, sun-parched though it be, he gives the laws; and the white man must + obey them. In this point of view—as restoring to him his long-lost + birthright of equality—Liberia may indeed be called the black man's + paradise. + </p> + <p> + It is difficult to lay too great stress on the above consideration. When + the white man sets his foot on the shore of Africa, he finds it necessary + to throw off his former prejudices. For my own part, I have dined at the + tables of many colored men in Liberia, have entertained them on shipboard, + worshipped with them at church; walked, rode, and associated with them, as + equal with equal, if not as friend with friend. Were I to meet those men + in my own town, and among my own relatives, I would treat them kindly and + hospitably, as they have treated me. My position would give me confidence + to do so. But, in another city, where I might be known to few, should I + follow the dictates of my head and heart, and there treat these colored + men as brethren and equals, it would imply the exercise of greater moral + courage than I have ever been conscious of possessing. This is sad; but it + shows forcibly what the colored race have to struggle against in America, + and how vast an advantage is gained by removing them to another soil. + </p> + <p> + 10.—Yesterday, Governor Roberts gave our officers a farewell dinner. + We left the table early, made our adieus, and were on our way down the + river half an hour before sunset. The pilot and some of our friends + endeavored to dissuade us from attempting the passage of the bar, + pronouncing the surf too dangerous. Some Kroomen also discouraged us, + saying that the bar was "too saucy." With the fever behind us, and the + wild breakers and sharks before, it was matter of doubt what course to + pursue. Anxiety to be on our way homeward settled the difficulty; and we + left the wharf, to make, at least, a trial. A trial, and nothing more, it + proved; for, as we neared the bar, it became evident that there would be + great rashness in attempting to cross. The surf came in heavily, and with + the noise of thunder, and the gigantic rollers broke into foam, across the + whole width of the bar. Darkness had fallen around us, with the sudden + transition of a tropical climate. There was no open space visible amid the + foam; and, while the men lay on their oars, we looked anxiously for the + clear water, which marks the channel to the sea. Many minutes were thus + spent, looking with all our eyes. + </p> + <p> + A council of war was held between the captain and myself, in which we + discussed the probabilities of being swamped and eaten. Having once fairly + started, we did not like to turn back, especially as it would be necessary + to go through the insipid ceremony of repeating our good-bye. Then, too, + the image of fever rose behind us. By the prohibition of the Commodore, + and the dictates of prudence, not an officer had slept on shore on any + part of the mainland of the African coast, during the whole period of our + cruise; and now, at the very last moment, to be compelled to incur the + risk, was almost beyond patience. On the other hand, there was the foaming + surf, and the ravenous sharks, in whose maws there was an imminent + probability of our finding accommodation, should we venture onward. It is + a fate proper enough for a sailor, but which he may be excused for + avoiding as long as possible. Our council ended, therefore, with a + determination to turn back, and trust to the tender mercies of the fever. + </p> + <p> + It was a splendid moonlight night; one of those nights on which the + natives deem it impossible to catch fish, saying that the sky has too many + eyes, and that the fish will shun the bait. The frogs kept up an incessant + chorus, reminding me of the summer evening melodies of my native land, yet + as distinct from those as are the human languages of the two countries. I + have observed that the notes of frogs are different in different parts of + the world. On the banks of the beautiful Arno, it is like the squalling of + a cat. Here, it is an exact imitation of the complaining note of young + turkeys. Unweariedly, these minstrels made music in our ears, until dawn + gleamed in the East, and ushered in a bright and glorious morning. The + birds now took the place of the frogs in nature's orchestra, and cooed, + peeped, chattered, screamed, whistled, and sang, according to their + various tastes and abilities. The trees were very green, and the dew-drops + wonderfully brilliant; and, amid the cheerful influence of sun-rise, it + was difficult to believe that we had incurred any deadly mischief, by our + night's rest on the shore of Africa. + </p> + <p> + At a later period, I add, that no bad result ensued, either to the + captain, myself, or the eight seamen, who were detained ashore on the + above occasion. This good fortune may be attributable to the care with + which we guarded ourselves from the night-air and the damps; and besides, + we left the coast immediately, and, after a brief visit to Sierra Leone, + pursued our homeward course to America. On another occasion, a lieutenant, + a surgeon, and six men, belonging to our squadron, were detained on shore + at Cape Mount, all night, after being capsized and wet. What were their + precautions, I am unable to say; but, all the officers and men were + attacked by fever, more or less severely, and in one instance fatally. + [Footnote: While revising these sheets for the press, the writer hears of + an example which may show the necessity of the health-regulations imposed + on the American squadron. The U.S. ship Preble ascended the River Gambia + to the English settlement of Bathurst, a distance of fifteen miles, to + protect the European residents against an apprehended attack of the + natives. Although the ship remained but one or two days, yet, in that + brief space, about a hundred cases of fever occurred on board, proving + fatal to the master, a midshipman, and seventeen of the crew.] And now we + leave Liberia behind us, with our best wishes for its prosperity, but with + no very anxious desire to breathe its fever-laden atmosphere again. There + is enough of interest on the African station; but life blazes quickly + away, beneath the glare of that torrid sun; and one year of that climate + is equivalent to half a dozen of a more temperate one, in its effect upon + the constitution. The voyager returns, with his sallow visage, and + emaciated form, and enervated powers, to find his contemporaries younger + than himself—to realize that he has taken two or three strides for + their one, towards the irrevocable bourne; and has abridged, by so much, + the season in which life is worth having for what may be accomplished, or + for any zest that may be found in it. + </p> + <p> + Before quitting the coast, I must not forget that our cruising-ground has + a classical claim upon the imagination, as being the very same over which + Robinson Crusoe made two or three of his voyages. That famous navigator + sailed all along the African shore, between Cape de Verd and the Equator, + trading for ivory, for gold dust, and especially for slaves, with as + little compunction as Pedro Blanco himself. It is remarkable that De Foe, + a man of most severe and delicate conscience, should have made his hero a + slave-dealer, and should display a perfect insensibility to anything + culpable in the traffic. Morality has taken a great step in advance, since + that day; or, at least, it has thrown a strong light on one spot, with + perhaps a corresponding shadow on some other. The next age may shift the + illumination, and show us sins as great as that of the slave-trade, but + which now enter into the daily practice of men claiming to be just and + wise. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. + </h2> + <p> + Sierra Leone—Sources of its Population—Appearance of the Town + and surrounding Country—Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes—Treatment + of liberated Slaves—Police of Sierra Leone—Agencies for + Emigration to the West Indies—Colored Refugees from the United + States—Unhealthiness of Sierra Leone—Dr. Fergusson—Splendid + Church—Melancholy Fate of a Queen's Chaplain—Currency—Probable + Ruin of the Colony. + </p> + <p> + <i>October</i> 15.—We arrived off the point of Sierra Leone, last + night, and were piloted up to the town, this morning. + </p> + <p> + This is one of the most important and interesting places on the coast of + Africa. It was founded in 1787, chiefly through the benevolent agency of + Mr. Granville Sharp, as a place of refuge for a considerable number of + colored persons, who had left their masters, and were destitute and + unsheltered in the streets of London. Five years later, the population of + the colony was recruited by above a thousand slaves, who had fled from the + United States to Nova Scotia, during the American revolution. Again, in + 1800, there was an addition of more than five hundred maroons, or outlawed + negroes, from Jamaica. And finally, since 1807, Sierra Leone has been the + receptacle for the great numbers of native Africans liberated from + slave-ships, on their capture by British cruisers. Pensioners, with their + families, from the black regiments in the West Indies, have likewise been + settled here. The population is now estimated at about forty-five + thousand; a much smaller amount, probably, than the aggregate of all the + emigrants who have been brought hither. The colony has failed to prosper, + but not through any lack of effort on the part of England. It is the + point, of all others on the African coast, where British energy, capital, + and life, have been most profusely expended. + </p> + <p> + The aspect of the Cape, as you approach it from the sea, is very + favorable. You discern cultivated hills, the white mansions of the + wealthy, and thatched cottages, neat and apparently comfortable, abodes of + the poorer class. Over a space of several miles, the country appears to be + in a high state of improvement. One large village is laid out with the + regularity of Philadelphia, consisting of seven parallel streets, kept + free from grass, with thatched huts on either side, around which are small + plots of ground, full of bananas and plantain trees. The town itself is a + scene of far greater activity than any other settlement on the West Coast. + Great numbers of negroes, of various tribes and marks, are to be seen + there. So mixed, indeed, is the colored population, that there is little + sympathy or sense of fellowship among them. The Mandingoes seem to be the + most numerous, and are the most remarkable in personal appearance. Almost + without exception, they are very tall figures, and wear white robes, and + high caps without visors. + </p> + <p> + These Mandingoes hold the faith of Mahomet, and at the time of our + arrival, were celebrating the feast of the Ramazan. Several hundreds of + them paraded through the streets in a confused mass, occasionally stopping + before some gentleman's house, and enacting sundry mummeries, in + consideration of which they expected to receive a present. In front of a + house where I happened to be, the whole body were ranged in order; and two + of them, one armed with a gun, and the other with a bow and arrow, ran + from end to end of the line, crouching down and pretending to be on the + watch against an enemy. At intervals, their companions, or a portion of + them, raised a cry, like those which one hears in the mosques of Asia. The + above seemed to compose nearly all the ceremony; and our liberality was in + proportion to the entertainment, consisting merely of a handful of + coppers, scattered broadcast among the multitude. When this magnificent + guerdon was thus proffered to their acceptance, they forthwith forgot + their mummery, and joined in a general scramble. The king, or chief, now + stept forward, and protested energetically against this mode of + distribution; it being customary to consign all the presents to him, to be + disposed of according to his better judgment. However, the mob picked up + the coppers, and showed themselves indifferently well contented. + </p> + <p> + When cargoes of slaves are brought to Sierra Leone, they are placed in a + receptacle called the Queen's Yard, where they remain until the + constituted authorities have passed judgment on the ship. This seldom + requires more than a week. The liberated slaves are then apprenticed for + five, seven, or nine years; the Government requiring one pound ten + shillings sterling from the person who takes them. Unless applicants come + forward, these victims of British philanthropy are turned adrift, to be + supported as they may, or, unless Providence take all the better care of + them, to starve. For the sick, however, there is admittance to the + Government Hospital; and the countrymen of the new-comers, belonging to + the same tribe, lend them such aid as is in their power. Food, consisting + principally of rice, cassadas, and plantains, or bananas, is extremely + cheap; insomuch that a penny a day will supply a man with enough to eat. + The market is plentifully supplied with meats, fowls, and vegetables, and + likewise with other articles, which may be tidbits to an African stomach, + but are not to be met with in our bills of fare. For instance, among other + such delicacies, I saw several rats, each transfixed with a wooden skewer, + and some large bats, looking as dry as if they had given up the ghost a + month ago. Supporting themselves on food of this kind, it is not to be + wondered at, that the working-classes find it possible to live at a very + low rate of labor. The liberated slaves receive from four to six pence, + and the Kroomen nine pence per diem; these wages constituting their sole + support. + </p> + <p> + As may be supposed, so heterogeneous and wild a population as that of + Sierra Leone requires the supervision of a strict and energetic police. + Accordingly, the peace is preserved, and crimes prevented, by a whole army + of constables, who, in a cheap uniform of blue cotton, with a white badge + on the arm, and a short club as their baton of office, patrol the streets, + day and night. Their number cannot be less than two or three hundred. + </p> + <p> + There is a desire, in some quarters, to destroy the colony of Sierra + Leone; and one of the means for accomplishing this end is, of procuring + the emigration of the colored colonists to the West Indies. For this + purpose there are three different agencies. One has over its door:—"British + Guiana Emigration Office;" another is for Trinidad; and a third for + Jamaica. + </p> + <p> + Great promises are made to persons proposing to emigrate; such as a free + passage to the West Indies, wages of from seventy-five cents to a dollar + per day, and permission to return when they choose. Very few, however, of + those who have been long resident here, can be induced to avail themselves + of these offers, small as are the earnings of labor at Sierra Leone. They + believe that the stipulations are not observed; that emigrants, on their + arrival in the West Indies, will be called upon to pay their passages, and + that it will not be at their option to return. In short, they suspect + emigration to be only a more plausible name for the slave-trade. The + Kroomen are the class most sought for as emigrants, although negroes of + any tribe are greedily received. Even the Africans just re-captured are + sent off, as the authorities are pleased to term it, "voluntarily." The + last emigration, consisting of somewhat less than two hundred and fifty + persons, included seventy-six slaves, almost that instant landed from a + prize. A respectable merchant assured me, that these men were not + permitted to communicate with their countrymen, but were hurried off to + the vessel, without knowing whither they were bound. The acting governor, + Dr. Fergusson, denied the truth of this, although he admitted that the + seventy-six liberated slaves did emigrate to the West Indies, very soon + after landing from the prize. + </p> + <p> + It is to be remarked, that the white inhabitants of Sierra Leone, as well + as the colored people, entertain very unfavorable notions of this scheme + of procuring laborers for the West Indies. The best defence of it, + perhaps, is, that neither blacks nor whites can flourish in this + settlement, and that a transportation from its poor soil and sickly + climate, to any other region, may probably be for the better. But, + undeniably, the British government is less scrupulous as to the methods of + carrying out its philanthropic projects, than most other nations in their + schemes of self-aggrandizement. + </p> + <p> + In Freetown, which is the residence of all the Europeans, are to be found + what remains of the emigrants from Nova Scotia, and their descendants. The + whole number transported hither at several periods, was about fifteen + hundred. Not more than seventy or eighty of these people, or their + progeny, now survive upon the spot. Our pilot is one of the number. He + affirms, that his countrymen were promised fifty acres of land, each, in + Sierra Leone, on condition of relinquishing the land already in their + possession in Nova Scotia. With this understanding they emigrated to + Africa; but, in more than half a century which has since elapsed, the + government has never found it convenient to fulfil its obligations. Only + two or three acres have been assigned to each individual. Meantime, the + body of emigrants has dwindled away, until the standard six feet of earth + by two, the natural inheritance of every human being, has sufficed for + almost all of them, as well as fifty, or five thousand acres could have + done. These emigrants were the colonial slaves, who were taken or ran away + from the United States, during the Revolutionary war. Considered + physically and statistically, their movement was anything but an + advantageous one. It would be matter of curious speculation to inquire + into the relative proportions now alive, of slaves who remained upon our + southern soil, and of these freed men, together with the amount of their + posterity. Not, of course, that it has been in any degree a fair + experiment as to the result of emancipating and colonizing slaves. The + trial of that experiment has been left to America; and it has been + commenced in a manner that might induce England to mistrust her own + beneficence, when she contrasts Liberia with Sierra Leone. + </p> + <p> + This settlement has been known as "The White Man's Grave;" and it is + certainly a beautiful spot for a grave—as lovely as one of those + ornamental cemeteries, now so fashionable, and on which so much of our + taste is lavished; as if only the dead had leisure for the enjoyment of + shrubbery and sculpture. Sierra Leone, however, is by no means the fatal + spot that it once was. Formerly, a governor was expected to die every + year, although a few held the reins of power, and enjoyed the pomp and + dignity of office, twice or even thrice that period. Brave and excellent + men have accepted the station, on this fearful tenure. Among them was + Colonel Denham, the adventurous traveller in Africa. Very great mortality + likewise prevailed among the merchants, military and civil officers, and + soldiers. This was partly owing to the recklessness of their mode of life. + The rich were in the habit of giving champagne-breakfasts at noon, and + heavy and luxurious suppers at night. The continual neighborhood and near + prospect of death made them gaily desperate; so that they grew familiar + with him, and regarded him almost as a boon companion. And, besides, in a + sickly climate, each individual is confident of his own personal immunity + against the disease which, he is ready to allow, may be fatal to those + around him. I have noticed this absurd hallucination in others, and been + conscious of it in myself. In battle it is the same—the bullet is + expected to strike any and every breast, except one's own—and here, + perhaps, is the great secret of courage. + </p> + <p> + Latterly, the Europeans at Sierra Leone practise a more temperate life. + Another circumstance that has conduced to render the settlement less + insalubrious, is the clearing of lands in the vicinity, and conversion of + the rank jungle into cultivated fields. The good effect of this change + will be readily appreciated by those who have noticed the improved health + of our Western settlers, as the forest falls before the axe; or who have + seen the difference between the inhabitants of old and new lands, in any + country. + </p> + <p> + It is said, by the old residents here, that they do not find it very + sickly, except once in seven years, when an epidemic rages, and carries + off many settlers. This has happened regularly since 1823, until the + present year, when, in the proper order of things, the angel of death + should have re-appeared. Several persons provided for their safety by + quitting the place; and others made their arrangement to retreat, on the + first symptoms of danger. But the year, thus far, seems to have been + distinguished by no peculiar mortality. + </p> + <p> + Life, in a climate like this, must generally be much more brief than in + temperate regions, even if it do not yield at once to the violence of + disease. Yet there are circumstances of Europeans attaining a good and + green old age at Sierra Leone. Mr. Hornell, a Scotch merchant of great + wealth and probity—which latter virtue is rare enough, in this + quarter, to deserve special mention—has resided here fifteen years, + and twenty-seven years in the West Indies. He lives regularly, but + generously imbibing ale, and brandy-and-water, in moderate quantities, + every day of his life. + </p> + <p> + The governor, Colonel George Macdonald, is now absent in England. In the + interim, the duties of the office are performed by Dr. Fergusson, a + mulatto in color, but born in Scotland, and married to a white lady, who + now resides in that country. Dr. Fergusson was regularly educated at + Edinburgh, and is a medical officer of the British army; a man of noble + and commanding figure, handsome and intellectual countenance, and finished + manners. He is affable, as well as dignified, in his deportment, and + fluent and interesting in conversation. To him, and five or six other men + of color, whom I have met on the coast, I should refer, as proofs that + individuals of the African race may, with due advantages, be cultivated + and refined so as to compare with the best specimens of white gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + There is a large church here, said to have cost seventy thousand pounds + sterling; notwithstanding which vast expenditure, divine service has + ceased to be performed. The last clergyman, a young man universally + beloved and respected, lost his life, two or three years ago. He had gone + with a party of friends, five in all, on board a homeward-bound vessel, + which lay at a short distance from the shore. On their return the boat + capsized and sunk. The five Kroomen saved themselves, by swimming, until + picked up by a canoe; the five whites were lost; and the young clergyman + among them. The latter swam well, and was almost within reach of a canoe, + when he threw up his hands, exclaiming, "God have mercy on me!"—and + disappeared. A shark had undoubtedly seized him, at the moment when he + believed himself safe. This gentleman held the office of Queen's Chaplain; + and since his melancholy fate, no new appointment of that nature has been + made. If credit be due to the statements reciprocally made by the + colonists, in reference to one another, there is great need of teachers to + inculcate the principles of religion, morality, and brotherly love; + although the spiritual instruction heretofore bestowed (which has cost + large sums to the pious in England) has been almost entirely thrown away. + There are some missionaries here, who have directed their labors + principally to the business of education. + </p> + <p> + The tide runs so strongly, into and out of the river, that such accidents + as that which befell the five Europeans, above-mentioned, are of no + unfrequent occurrence. When boats or canoes are upset, it is impossible + for the passengers to swim against the current. We had an instance of the + danger, while at anchor there. The captain was seated in his cabin, with + the stern windows open, when he heard a native in a canoe, under the + stern, say "Man drown!" Being asked what he meant, he reiterated the + words, pointing towards the sea. Just then, a cry was indistinctly heard. + Two of our boats were instantly despatched, and picked up three Kroomen, + whose canoe had sunk, leaving them to the mercy of the current, which was + rapidly drifting them towards the ocean. The Humane Society of Sierra + Leone bestows a reward for every person rescued from drowning. In this + instance, of course, no claim was made upon their funds. + </p> + <p> + The currency here differs from that of all the other settlements on the + coast, except those belonging to Great Britain. The Spanish and South + American doubloons are valued at only sixty-four shillings sterling each, + or fifteen dollars and thirty-six cents; while they are worth elsewhere, + sixteen dollars. Spanish and South American dollars pass at about one per + cent. discount. The English sovereign is reckoned at four dollars eighty + cents; and the French five-franc piece at ninety-two cents. The gold and + silver coin of the United States is not current at Sierra Leone. Bills on + London, at thirty days sight, are worth from par to five per cent. + premium, and may actually be sold in small sums (say, from £100 to £2000) + at fair rates. + </p> + <p> + Pilotage is five shillings sterling per foot; and the port-charges are so + exorbitant as to prevent the entrance of many vessels, which would + otherwise stop to try the market. Of late years, the trade of Sierra Leone + has suffered great diminution. Money having been lost on all the timber + exported, that business is at present nearly abandoned. Another cause of + decay is the withdrawal of the British squadron, which has now its + principal rendezvous at Ascension. More than all, as contributing to the + decline of the colony, the home-government has discontinued the greater + part of the assistance formerly rendered. The governor, colonial + secretary, and chief justice, are believed to be all the civil officers + who now draw their salaries from England. The military force consists of a + captain, five or six subalterns, and probably two or three hundred + soldiers. In consequence of the failure of support from the + mother-country, the colony has imposed higher duties upon certain + articles, in order to try the experiment of raising a revenue from their + own resources. The most sagacious and best informed residents predict that + the result aimed at will not follow, and that three or four years will + suffice to render the colony of Sierra Leone bankrupt. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. + </h2> + <p> + Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels—Causes of + that Failure—High character of the Commodore and Commander—Similar + ill-success of the French Squadron—Success of the English, and why—Results + effected by the American Squadron. + </p> + <p> + It will not have escaped the reader's notice, that the foregoing journal + of our cruise records not the capture of a single slave-vessel, either by + our own ship or any other belonging to the American squadron. Such is the + fact, and such it must inevitably be, so long as the circumstances, which + prevented our efficiency in that respect, shall continue to exist. The + doctrines relative to the right of search, held by our Government and + cordially sanctioned by the people, declare that the cruisers of no + foreign nation have a right to search, visit, or in any way detain an + American vessel on the high seas. Denying the privilege to others, we must + of course allow the same inviolability to a foreign flag, as we assert for + that of our own country. Hence, our national ships can detain or examine + none but American vessels, or those which they find sailing under the + American flag. But no slave-vessel would display this flag. The laws of + the United States declare the slave-trade, if exercised by any of its + citizens, to be piracy, and punishable with death; the laws of Spain, + Portugal and Brazil, are believed to be different, or, at least, if they + threaten the same penalty, are certain never to inflict it. Consequently, + all slaves will be careful to sail under the flag of one of these latter + nations, and thus avoid the danger of losing life as well as property, in + the event of capture. + </p> + <p> + Undoubtedly, many American vessels have been sold to foreigners, by + unprincipled citizens of our country, with a belief or full understanding + that they were to be employed in this nefarious trade. In some instances, + such vessels have been sold, with stipulations in the contract, binding + the seller to deliver them at slave-stations on the coast of Africa; they + have been sent out to those stations under American colors, and commanded + by American captains; and there, being transferred to new masters, they + have immediately taken on board their cargoes of human flesh. But how is + an American cruiser to take hold of a vessel so circumstanced? On her + departure from the United States, and until the transfer takes place, she + is provided with regular papers, and probably sails for her destined port + with a cargo which may be used in lawful, as well as unlawful trade. After + the transfer, she appears under foreign colors, is furnished with foreign + papers, commanded by a foreign master, and manned by a foreign crew. It is + not to be presumed that this change of nationality will be effected in + presence of one of our men-of-war. How then can such a vessel be taken or + molested, so long as the present treaties and laws continue in force? + </p> + <p> + It is well that the public should be prepared for an inefficiency which + can hardly fail to continue; and, in justice to the American squadron, it + should be imputed to the true cause, and not to any lack of energy or + good-will on the part of the officers. Whatever be their zeal (and + hitherto they have been active and indefatigable), it is almost certain + that their efforts will not be crowned with success, in the capture of a + single prize. The Commodore, under whose general direction we have acted, + is a gentleman of the highest professional character, persevering, + sagacious, and determined, and well known as such, both in and out of the + service. The commanders of the different vessels were likewise men of + elevated character, zealous in performing their duty, and honorably + ambitious of distinction. If the incentive of gain be reckoned stronger + than considerations of duty and honor, it was not wanting; for, besides + half the value of the vessel, each liberated slave would have been worth + twenty-five dollars to the captors—a handsome amount of prize-money, + in a cargo of six or eight hundred. + </p> + <p> + The French, like ourselves, having no reciprocal treaties with Spain, + Portugal, and Brazil, are equally unsuccessful in making prizes. Eleven of + their vessels of war were stationed on the coast, during the period of our + cruise, but effected not a single capture. England, by virtue of her + treaties with the three nations above mentioned, empowers her cruisers to + take slave-vessels under either of their flags. Hence the success of the + English commanders; a success which is sometimes tauntingly held up, in + contrast with what is most unjustly termed the sluggishness of our own + squadron. + </p> + <p> + Still, the presence of American national vessels, on the coast of Africa, + has not been unattended with results that may partly compensate for the + sacrifice of human life and health, which the climate renders inevitable. + The trade of the United States has been protected. The natives have been + taught, that the humblest American merchant-vessel sails under the shadow + of a flag, which guarantees security to everything that it covers. The + colonies of Liberia have been made more respectable in the eyes of the + barbarian nations that surround them. This latter advantage it is + creditable to our country to bestow; for the United States demand from + Liberia no commercial exemptions, nor anything in return for the + countenance which she lends to that growing commonwealth. Never before, + perhaps, did a colony exist, so entirely free from vexatious interference + on the part of the mother-country, and so carefully fostered by the + benevolence that planted it. Slight as is the present political connection + between the United States and Liberia, the latest advices inform us that + it is in contemplation to sever the silken thread. The Colonization + Society, I understand, is discussing the expediency of relinquishing its + further control over the government, and allowing the infant colony to + take a place among independent nations. Should this event come to pass, + and Liberia either find the protection of another maritime power, or prove + adequate to protect herself, there will be one reason the less for sending + a squadron of gallant ships to chase shadows in a deadly climate. + </p> + <h3> + THE END. + </h3> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Journal of an African Cruiser, by Horatio Bridge + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + +***** This file should be named 7937-h.htm or 7937-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/9/3/7937/ + + +Text file produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Journal of an African Cruiser + Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, + Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest + On The West Coast Of Africa + +Author: Horatio Bridge + +Editor: Nathaniel Hawthorne + + +Release Date: April, 2005 [EBook #7937] +This file was first posted on June 2, 2003 +Last Updated: May 22, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. Ellison and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team + + + + + + + + + + +JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER + +Comprising Sketches Of The Canaries, The Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, +Sierra Leone, And Other Places Of Interest On The West Coast Of Africa. + +By Horatio Bridge + +An Officer Of The U. S. Navy. + + +Edited By Nathaniel Hawthorne. + + +London: Wiley And Putnam, 6, Waterloo Place 1845 + +[Entered At Stationers' Hall.] + + + + +PREFACE. + +The following pages have afforded occupation for many hours, which might +else have been wasted in idle amusements, or embittered by still idler +regrets at the destiny which carried the writer to a region so little +seductive as Africa, and kept him there so long. He now offers them to the +public, after some labor bestowed in correction and amendment, but +retaining their original form, that of a daily Journal, which better +suited his lack of literary practice and constructive skill, and was in +fitter keeping with the humble pretensions of the work, than a +re-arrangement on artistic principles. At various points of the narrative, +however, he has introduced observations or disquisitions from two or three +common-place books, which he kept simultaneously with the Journal; and +thus, in a few instances, remarks are inserted as having been made early +in the cruise, while, in reality, they were perhaps the ultimate result of +his reflection and judgment upon the topics discussed. + +If, in any portion of the book, the author may hope to engage the +attention of the public, it will probably be in those pages which treat of +Liberia. The value of his evidence, as to the condition and prospects of +that colony, must depend, not upon any singular acuteness of observation +or depth of reflection, but upon his freedom from partizan bias, and his +consequent ability to perceive a certain degree of truth, and inclination +to express it frankly. A northern man, but not unacquainted with the slave +institutions of our own and other countries--neither an Abolitionist nor a +Colonizationist--without prejudice, as without prepossession--he felt +himself thus far qualified to examine the great enterprise which he beheld +in progress. He enjoyed, moreover, the advantage of comparing Liberia, as +he now saw it, with a personal observation of its condition three years +before, and could therefore mark its onward or retreating footsteps, and +the better judge what was permanent, and what merely temporary or +accidental. With these qualifications, he may at least hope to have spoken +so much of truth as entirely to gratify neither the friends nor enemies of +this interesting colony. + +The West Coast of Africa is a fresher field for the scribbling tourist, +than most other parts of the world. Few visit it, unless driven by stern +necessity; and still fewer are disposed to struggle against the enervating +influence of the climate, and keep up even so much of intellectual +activity as may suffice to fill a diurnal page of Journal or Commonplace +Book. In his descriptions of the settlements of the various nations of +Europe, along that coast, and of the native tribes, and their trade and +intercourse with the whites, the writer indulges the idea that he may add +a trifle to the general information of the public. He puts forth his work, +however, with no higher claims than as a collection of desultory sketches, +in which he felt himself nowise bound to tell all that it might be +desirable to know, but only to be accurate in what he does tell. On such +terms, there is perhaps no very reprehensible audacity in undertaking the +history of a voyage; and he smiles to find himself, so simply and with so +little labor, acquiring a title to be enrolled among the authors of books! + +APRIL 5, 1845. + + + +LIST OF CONTENTS + + +CHAP. I. + +Departure--Mother Carey's Chickens--The Gulf Stream--Rapid Progress--The +French Admiral's Cook--Nautical Musicians--The sick Man--The Burial at +Sea--Arrival at the Canaries--Santa Cruz--Love and Crime--Island of Grand +Canary--Troglodytes near Las Palmas. + + +CHAP. II. + +Nelson's Defeat at Santa Cruz--The Mantilla--Arrival at Porto +Grande--Poverty of the Inhabitants--Portuguese Exiles at the Cape de +Verds--City of Porto Praya--Author's Submersion--Green Turtle--Rainy +Season--Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + + +CHAP. III. + +Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.--Arrival at Cape Palmas--American +Missionaries--Prosperity of the Catholic Mission--King Freeman, and his +Royal Robe--Customs of the Kroo-People--Condition of Native Women. + + +CHAP. IV. + +Return to Monrovia--Sail for Porto Praya--The Union Hotel--Reminiscences +of Famine at the Cape de Verds--Frolics of Whalemen--Visit to the Island +of Antonio--A Dance--Fertility of the Island--A Yankee Clockmaker--A +Mountain Ride--City of Poverson--Point de Sol--Kindness of the Women--The +handsome Commandant--A Portuguese Dinner. + + +CHAP. V. + +Arrival of the Macedonian--Return to the Coast of Africa--Emigrants to +Liberia--Tornadoes--Maryland in Liberia--Nature of its Government--Perils +of the Bar--Mr. Russwurm--The Grebo Tribe--Manner of disposing of their +Dead. + + +CHAP. VI. + +Settlement of Sinoe--Account of a Murder by the Natives--Arrival at +Monrovia--Appearance of the Town--Temperance--Law-Suits and +Pleadings--Expedition up the St. Paul's River--Remarks on the Cultivation +of Sugar--Prospects of the Coffee-culture in Liberia--Desultory +observations on Agriculture. + + +CHAP. VII + +High Character of Governor Roberts--Suspected Slaver--Dinner on +Shore--Facts and Remarks relative to the Slave-Trade--British +Philanthropy--Original cost of a Slave--Anchor at Sinoe--Peculiarities and +distinctive Characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen--The King of +Appollonia--Religion and Morality among the Natives--Influence of the +Women. + + +CHAP. VIII. + +Palaver at Sinoe--Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen--Palaver at Settra +Kroo--Mrs. Sawyer--Objections to the Marriage of Missionaries--A +Centipede--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Rescue of the Sassy-wood +drinker--Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists. + + +CHAP. IX. + +Palaver with King Freeman--Remarks on the Influence of +Missionaries--Palaver at Rock-Boukir--Narrative of Captain Farwell's +murder--Scene of Embarkation through the Surf--Sail for Little Berebee. + + +CHAP. X. + +Palaver at Little Berebee--Death of the Interpreter and King Ben Cracko +and burning of the Town--Battle with the Natives, and Conflagration of +several Towns--Turkey Buzzards--A Love-Letter--Moral Reflections--Treaty +of Grand Berebee--Prince Jumbo and his Father--Native system of +Expresses--Curiosity of the Natives. + + +CHAP. XI. + +Madeira--Aspect of the Island--Annual races--"Hail Columbia!"--Ladies, +Cavaliers, and Peasants--Dissertation upon Wines--The Clerks of +Funchal--Decay of the Wine-Trade--Cultivation of Pine-Trees--A Night in +the Streets--Beautiful Church--A Sunday-evening Party--Currency of +Madeira. + + +CHAP. XII. + +Passage back to Liberia--Coffee Plantations--Dinner on shore--Character of +Colonel Hicks--Shells and Sentiment--Visit to the Council-chamber--The +New-Georgia Representative--A Slave-ship--Expedition up the St. +Paul's--Sugar Manufactory--Maumee's beautiful grand-daughter--The Sleepy +Disease--The Mangrove-tree. + + +CHAP. XIII. + +The Theatre--Tribute to Governor Buchanan--Arrival at Settra Kroo--Jack +Purser--The Mission School--Cleanliness of the Natives--Uses of the +Palm-tree--Native Money--Mrs. Sawyer--Influence of her character on the +Natives--Characteristics of English Merchant-Captains--Trade of England +with the African Coast. + + +CHAP. XIV. + +American Trade--Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales--Standard of +Commercial Integrity--Dealings with Slave-Traders--Trade with the +Natives--King's "Dash"--Native Commission-Merchants--The Gold Trade--The +Ivory Trade--The "Round Trade"--Respectability of American +Merchant-Captains--Trade with the American Squadron. + + +CHAP. XV. + +Jack Purser's wife--Fever on board--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Strange figure +and equipage of a Missionary--King George of Grand Bassam--Intercourse +with the Natives--Tahon--Grand Drewin--St. Andrew's--Picaninny +Lahoo--Natives attacked by the French--Visit to King Peter--Sketches of +Scenery and People at Cape Lahon. + + +CHAP. XVI. + +Visit from two English Trading-Captains--The invisible King of +Jack-a-Jack--Human sacrifices--French fortresses at Grand Bassam, at +Assinoe, and other points--Objections to the locality of +Liberia--Encroachments on the limits of that Colony--Arrival in +Axim--Sketches of that Settlement--Dixcove--Civilized Natives--An +Alligator. + + +CHAP. XVII. + +Dutch Settlement at El Mina--Appearance of the Town--Cape Coast +Castle--Burial-place of L. E. L.--An English dinner--Festivity on +shipboard--British, Dutch, and Danish Accra--Native wives of Europeans--A +Royal Princess--An Armadillo--Sail for St. Thomas--Aspect of the Island. + + +CHAP. XVIII. + +Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves--Mode of drying Coffee--Black +Priests--Madam Domingo's Hotel--Catering for the Mess--Man swallowed by a +Shark--Letters from home--Fashionable equipage--Arrival at the +Gaboon--King Glass and Louis Philippe--Mr. Griswold--Mr. and Mrs. +Wilson--Character of the Gaboon People--Symptoms of illness. + + +CHAP. XIX. + +Recovery from Fever--Projected Independence of Liberia--Remarks on Climate +and Health--Peril from Breakers--African Arts--Departure for the Cape de +Verds--Man Overboard. + + +CHAP. XX. + +Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea--The Gar-fish--The Booby and the +Mullet--Improvement of Liberia--Its prospects--Higher social position of +its Inhabitants--Intercourse between the White and Colored. Races--A night +on shore--Farewell to Liberia--Reminiscence of Robinson Crusoe. + + +CHAP. XXI. + +Sierra Leone--Sources of its Population--Appearance of the Town and +surrounding Country--Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes--Treatment of +liberated Slaves--Police of Sierra Leone--Agencies for Emigration to the +West Indies--Colored Refugees from the United States--Unhealthiness of +Sierra Leone--Dr. Fergusson--Splendid Church--Melancholy Fate of a Queen's +Chaplain--Currency--Probable Ruin of the Colony. + + +CHAP. XXII. + +Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels--Causes of that +Failure--High character of the Commodore and Commanders--Similar +ill-success of the French Squadron--Success of the English, and +why--Results effected by the American Squadron. + + + + + +JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Departure--Mother Carey's Chickens--The Gulf stream--Rapid Progress--The +French Admiral's Cook--Nautical Musicians--The Sick Man--The Burial at +Sea--Arrival at the Canaries--Santa Cruz--Love and Crime--Island of Grand +Canary--Troglodytes near Las Palmas. + + +_June_ 5,1843.--Towed by the steamer Hercules, we go down the harbor of +New York, at 7 o'clock A.M. It is the fourth time the ship has moved, +since she was launched from the Navy Yard at Portsmouth. Her first +experience of the ocean was a rough one; she was caught in a wintry gale +from the north-east, dismasted, and towed back into Portsmouth harbor, +within three days after her departure. The second move brought us to New +York; the third, from the Navy Yard into the North river; and the fourth +will probably bring us to an anchorage off Sandy Hook. After a hard winter +of four months, in New Hampshire, we go to broil on the coast of Africa, +with ice enough in our blood to keep us comfortably cool for six months at +least. + +At 10 A.M. the steamer cast off, and we anchored inside of Sandy Hook; at +12 Meridian, hoisted the broad pennant of Commodore Perry, and saluted it +with thirteen guns. At 3 P.M. the ship gets under way, and with a good +breeze, stands out to sea. Our parting letters are confided to the Pilot. +That weather-beaten veteran gives you a cordial shake with his broad, hard +hand, wishes you a prosperous cruise, and goes over the side. His life is +full of greetings and farewells; the grasp of his hand assures the +returning mariner that his weary voyage is over; and when the swift pilot +boat hauls her wind, and leaves you to go on your course alone, you feel +that the last connecting link with home is broken. On our ship's deck, +there were perhaps some heart-aches, but no whimpering. Few strain their +eyes to catch parting glimpses of the receding highlands; it is only the +green ones who do that. The Old Salt seeks more substantial solace in his +dinner. It is matter of speculation, moreover, whether much of the misery +of parting does not, with those unaccustomed to the sea, originate in the +disturbed state of their stomachs. + +7.--We are in the Gulf-stream. The temperature of the water is ten degrees +above that of the air. Though the ship is deep, being filled with stores, +and therefore sailing heavily, we are yet taken along eleven knots by the +wind, and two or three more by the current. Swiftly as we fly, however, we +are not quite alone upon the waters. Mother Carey's chickens follow us +continually, dipping into the white foam of our track, to seize the food +which our keel turns up for them out of the ocean depths. Mysterious is +the way of this little wanderer over the sea. It is never seen on land; +and naturalists have yet to discover where it reposes, and where it +hatches its young; unless we adopt the idea of the poets, that it builds +its nest upon the turbulent bosom of the deep. It is a sort of nautical +sister of the fabled bird of Paradise, which was footless, and never +alighted out of the air. Hundreds of miles from shore, in sunshine and in +tempest, you may see the Stormy Petrel. Among the unsolvable riddles which +nature propounds to mankind, we may reckon the question, Who is Mother +Carey, and where does she rear her chickens? + +9.--We are out of the Gulf-stream, and the ship is now rolling somewhat +less tumultuously than heretofore. For four days, we have been blest with +almost too fair a wind. A strong breeze, right aft, has been taking us +more than two hundred and forty miles a day on our course. But the +incessant and uneasy motion of the ship deprives us of any steady comfort. +In spite of all precautions, tables, chairs, and books, have tumbled about +in utter confusion, and the monotony is enlivened by the breaking of +bottles and crash of crockery. As some consolation, our Log Book shows +that we have made more than half of a thousand miles, within the last +forty-eight hours. Land travelling, with all the advantages of railroads, +can hardly compete with the continual diligence of a ship before a +prosperous breeze. + +11.--Spoke an American brig from Liverpool, bound for New York. Though the +boat was called away, and our letters were ready, it was all at once +determined not to board her; and, after asking the captain to report us, +we stood on our course again. The newspapers will tell our friends +something of our whereabouts; or, at least, that on a certain day, we were +encountered at a certain point upon the sea. + +13.--Wind still fair, and weather always fine. We have not tacked ship +once since leaving Sandy Hook, and are almost ready to quarrel with the +continual fair wind. There is nothing else to find fault with, except the +performances of our French cook in the wardroom, who came on board just +before we left New York, and made us believe that we had obtained a +treasure. He told us that he had cooked for a French Admiral. We swore him +to secrecy on that point, lest the Commodore should be disposed to engage +the services of so distinguished an artist for his own table. But our +self-congratulations were not of long continuance. The sugared omelet +passed with slight remark. The beefsteak smothered in onions was merely +prohibited in future. But when, on the second day, the potatoes were +served with mashed lemon-peel, the general discontent burst forth; and we +scolded till we laughed again at the dilemma in which we found ourselves. +Next to being without food, is the calamity of being subjected, in the +middle of the Atlantic, to the diabolical arts of the French Admiral's +cook. At sea, the arrangements of the table are of far more importance +than on shore. There are so few incidents, that one's dinner becomes, what +Dr. Johnson affirmed it always to be, the affair of which a man thinks +oftenest in the course of the day. + +16.--All day, the wind has been ahead, and very light. This evening, a +dead calm is upon the sea; but the sky is cloudless, and the air pure and +soft. All the well are enjoying the fine weather. The commodore and +captain walk the poop-deck; the other officers, except the lieutenant and +young gentlemen of the watch, are smoking on the forecastle, or +promenading the quarter-deck. A dozen steady old salts are rolling along +the gangways; and the men are clustered in knots between the guns, +talking, laughing, or listening to the yarns of their comrades--an +amusement to which sailors are as much addicted as the Sultan in the +Arabian Nights. But music is the order of the evening. Though a band is +not allowed to a ship of our class, there are always good musicians to be +found among the reckless and jolly fellows composing a man-of-war's crew. +A big landsman from Utica, and a dare-devil topman from Cape Cod, are the +leading vocalists; Symmes, the ship's cook, plays an excellent violin; and +the commodore's steward is not to be surpassed upon the tambourine. A +little black fellow, whose sobriquet is Othello, manages the castanets, +and there is a tolerable flute played by one of the afterguard. The +concerts usually commence with sentimental songs, such as "Home, sweet +Home," and the Canadian Boat Song: but the comic always carries off the +palm; "Jim along Josey," "Lucy Long," "Old Dan Tucker," and a hundred +others of the same character, are listened to delightedly by the crowd of +men and boys collected round the fore-hatch, and always ready to join in +the choruses. Thus a sound of mirth floats far and wide over the twilight +sea, and would seem to indicate that all goes well among us. + +But the delicious atmosphere, and the amusements of the ship, bring not +joy to all on board. There are sick men swinging uneasily in their +hammocks; and one poor fellow, whose fever threatens to terminate fatally, +tosses painfully in his cot. His messmates gently bathe his hot brow, and, +watching every movement, nurse him as tenderly as a woman. Strange, that +the rude heart of a sailor should be found to possess such tenderness as +we seldom ask or find, in those of our own sex, on land! There, we leave +the gentler humanities of life to woman; here, we are compelled to imitate +her characteristics, as well as our sterner nature will permit. + +22.--The sick man died last night, and was buried to-day. His history was +revealed to no one. Where was his home, or whether he has left friends to +mourn his death, are alike unknown. Dying, he kept his own counsel, and +was content to vanish out of life, even as a speck of foam melts back into +the ocean. At 11 A.M., for the first time, in a cruise likely to be fatal +to many on board, the boatswain piped "all hands to bury the dead!" The +sailor's corpse, covered with the union of his country's flag, was placed +in the gangway. Two hundred and fifty officers and men stood around, +uncovered, and reverently listened to the beautiful and solemn burial +service, as it was read by one of the officers. The body was committed to +the deep, while the ship dashed onward, and had left the grave far behind, +even before the last words of the service were uttered. The boatswain +"piped down," and all returned to their duties sadly, and with thoughtful +countenances. + +23.--At 4 A.M., the island of Palma and the Peak of Teneriffe are in full +sight, though the lofty summit of the mountain is one hundred miles +distant. + +24.--At 5 A.M., anchored at Santa Cruz, capital of the island of +Teneriffe. The health-officer informed us that we must ride out a +quarantine of eight days. A fine precaution, considering that we are +direct from New York! After breakfast, I went to the mole, to see the +Consular Agent, on duty. While waiting in our boat, we were stared at by +thirty or forty loafers (a Yankee phrase, but strictly applicable to these +foreign vagabonds), of the most wretched kind. Some were dressed in coarse +shirts and trowsers, and some had only one of these habiliments. None +interested me, except a dirty, swarthy boy, with most brilliant black +eyes, who lay flat on his stomach, and gazed at us in silence. His +elf-like glance sparkles brightly in my memory. + +One of the seamen in our boat spoke to the persons on shore in Spanish. I +inquired whether that were his mother-tongue, and learned that he was a +native of Mahon. On questioning him further, I ascertained that he was +concerned in a tragedy of which I had often heard, while on the +Mediterranean station, two or three years ago. A beautiful girl of +sixteen, of highly respectable family, fell in love with a young man, her +inferior in social rank, though of reputable standing. The affair was kept +secret between them. At length, the lover became jealous, and, one +evening, called his mistress out of her father's house, and stabbed her +five or six times. She died instantly, and her murderer fled. It was +believed in Mahon that he was drowned by falling overboard from the vessel +in which he escaped. Nevertheless, that murderer was the man with whom I +was speaking in the boat, now bearing another name, and a common sailor of +our ship. He told me his real name; and I heard, afterwards, that, when +drunk, he had confessed the murder to one of his messmates. + +This incident illustrates what I have often thought, that the private +history of a man-of-war's crew, if truly told, would be full of high +romance, varied with stirring incident, and too often darkened with, deep +and deadly crime. Many go to sea with the old Robinson Crusoe spirit, +seeking adventure for its own sake; many, to escape the punishment of +guilt, which has made them outlaws of the land; some, to drown the memory +of slighted love; while others flee from the wreck of their broken +fortunes ashore, to hazard another shipwreck on the deep. The jacket of +the common sailor often covers a figure that has walked Broadway in a +fashionable coat. An officer sometimes sees his old school-fellow and +playmate taken to the gangway and flogged. Many a blackguard on board has +been bred in luxury; and many a good seaman has been a slaver and a +pirate. It is well for the ship's company, that the sins of individuals do +not, as in the days of Jonas, stir up tempests that threaten the +destruction of the whole. + +The island of Grand Canary is one of the most interesting of the group at +which we have now arrived. The population of its capital, the city of Las +Palmas, is variously estimated at from nine thousand inhabitants, to twice +that number. The streets, however, have none of the bustle and animation +that would enliven an American town, of similar size. Around the city +there is an aspect of great fertility; fields of corn and grain, +palm-trees, and vineyards, occupy the valleys among the hills, and extend +along the shores, twining a glad green wreath about the circuit of the +island. The vines of Canary produce a wine which, two or three centuries +ago, was held in higher estimation than at present, and is supposed by +some to have been the veritable "sack" that so continually moistened the +throat of Falstaff. The very name of Canary is a cheerful one, associated +as it is with the idea of bounteous vineyards, and of those little golden +birds that make music all over the world. + +The high hills that surround the city of Las Palmas are composed of soft +stone, the yielding quality of which has caused these cliffs to be +converted to a very singular purpose. The poorer people, who can find no +shelter above ground, burrow into the sides of the hill, and thus form +caves for permanent habitation, where they dwell like swallows in a +sand-bank. Judging from the number of these excavations, the mouths of +which appear on the hill-sides, there cannot be less than a thousand +persons living in the manner here described. Not only the destitute +inhabitants of Grand Canary, but vagabonds from Teneriffe and the other +islands, creep thus into the heart of the rock; and children play about +the entrances of the caverns as merrily as at a cottage-door: while, in +the gloom of the interior, you catch a glimpse of household furniture, and +women engaged in domestic avocations. It is like discovering a world +within the world. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Nelson's defeat at Santa Cruz--The Mantilla--Arrival at Porto +Grande--Poverty of the inhabitants--Portuguese Exiles at the Cape de +Verds--City of Porto Prayo--Author's submersion--Green Turtle--Rainy +Season--Anchor at Cape Mesurado. + + +_July_ 1.--Ashore at Santa Cruz. The population of the city is reckoned +at six or eight thousand. The streets are clean, and the houses built in +the Spanish fashion. Camels are frequent in the streets. + +The landing at the Mole is generally bad, as Nelson found to his cost. It +is easy to perceive that, even in ordinary times, the landing of a large +party, though unopposed, must be a work of considerable difficulty. How +much more arduous, then, was the enterprise of the great Naval Hero, who +made his attack in darkness, and in the face of a well-manned battery, +which swept away all who gained foot-hold on the shore! The latter +obstacle might have been overcome by English valor, under Nelson's +guidance; but night, and the heavy surf, were the enemies that gave him +his first and only defeat. The little fort, under whose guns he was +carried by his step-son, after the loss of his arm, derived its chief +interest, in my eyes, from that circumstance. The glory of the great +Admiral sheds a lustre even upon the spot where success deserted him. In +the Cathedral of Santa Cruz are to be seen two English flags, which were +taken on that occasion, and are still pointed out with pride by the +inhabitants. I saw them five years ago, when they hung from the walls, +tattered and covered with dust; they are now enclosed in glass cases, to +which the stranger's attention is eagerly directed by the boys who swarm +around him. The defeat of Nelson took place on the anniversary of the +patron-saint of Santa Cruz; a coincidence which has added not a little to +the saint's reputation. It was by no means his first warlike exploit; for +he is said to have come to the assistance of the inhabitants, and routed +the Moors, when pressing the city hard, in the olden time. + +We wandered about the city until evening, and then walked in the Plaza. +Here the ladies and gentlemen of the city promenade for an hour or two, +occasionally seating themselves on the stone benches which skirt the +square. Like other Spanish ladies, the lovely brunettes of Santa Cruz +generally wear the mantilla, so much more becoming than the bonnet. There +are just enough of bonnets worn by foreigners, and travelled Spanish +dames, to show what deformities they are, when contrasted with the +graceful veil. This head-dress could only be used in a climate like that +of Teneriffe, where there are no extremes of heat or cold. It is a proverb +that there is no winter and no summer here. So equable and moderate is the +temperature, that, we were assured, a person might, without inconvenience, +wear either thick or thin clothing, all the year round. With such a +climate, and with a fertile soil, it would seem that this must be almost a +Paradise. There is a great obstruction, however, to the welfare of the +inhabitants, in the want of water. It rains so seldom that the ground is +almost burnt up, and many cattle actually perish from thirst. It is said +that no less than thirty thousand persons have emigrated from the island, +within three years. + +The productions of Teneriffe, for export, are wine and barilla. Of the +first, the greater part is sent to England, Russia and the United States. +About thirty thousand pipes are made annually, of which two thirds are +exported. Little or no wine is produced on the southern slope of the +island. The hills around Santa Cruz are little more than rugged peaks of +naked rock. The scenery is wild and bold, but sterile; and scattered +around are stupendous hills of lava, the products of former volcanic +eruptions, but which have, for ages, been cold and wave-washed. + +14.--Arrived at Porto Grande, in the island of St. Vincent's, one of the +Cape de Verds. The harbor is completely landlocked by the island of St. +Antonio, which stretches across its mouth. Still, there is, at times, a +considerable swell. The appearance of the land is barren, desolate, and +unpromising in the highest degree; and the town is in keeping with the +scenery. Eighty or ninety miserable hovels, constructed of small, loose +stones, in the manner of our stone-fences, stand in rows, with some +pretence of regularity. Besides the Governor and his aid, there are here +five white men, or rather Portuguese (for their claim to white blood is +not apparent in their complexions), viz. the Collector, the American +Consular Agent, a shop-keeper, whose goods are all contained in a couple +of trunks, and two private soldiers. We called to see the Governor, and +were politely received; he offered seats, and did the honors of the place +with dignity and affability. His pay is one dollar per diem. He has five +soldiers under his command, two of them Portuguese, and three native +negroes, one of whom has a crooked leg. + +The people here are wretchedly poor, subsisting chiefly by fishing, and by +their precarious gains from ships which anchor in the port. The Collector +informed me that there had been sixty whale-ships in the harbor, within +the past year. The profits accruing from thence, however, are very +inadequate to the comfortable support of the inhabitants. The adults are +mostly covered with rags, while many of the children are entirely naked; +the cats and dogs (whose condition may be taken as no bad test of the +degree of bodily comfort in the community) are lean and skeleton-like. As +to religion, I saw nothing to remind me of it, except the ruins of an old +church. There has been no priest since the death of one who was drowned, a +few years ago, near Bird Island, a large rock, at the mouth of the harbor. +At the time of this fatal mishap, the reverend father was on a drunken +frolic, in company with some colored women. + +The Cape de Verd Islands derive their name from the nearest point of the +mainland of Africa; they are under the dominion of Portugal, and, +notwithstanding their poverty, furnish a considerable revenue to that +country, over and above the expenses of the Colonial Government. This +revenue comes chiefly from the duties levied upon all imported articles, +and from the orchilla trade, which is monopolized by the Government at +home, and produces 50,000 dollars per annum. Another source of profit is +found in the tithes for the support of the Church, which, in some, if not +all the islands, have been seized by the Government (under a pledge for +the maintenance of the clergy), and are farmed out annually. These islands +supply the Portuguese with a place of honorable exile for officers who may +be suspected of heresy in politics, and hostility to existing +institutions. They are advanced a step in rank, to repay them (and a poor +requital it is) for the change from the delicious climate of Portugal, and +the gaieties of Lisbon, to the dreary solitude, the arid soil, and burning +and fever-laden air of the Cape de Verds. It is a melancholy thought, that +many an active intellect--many a generous and aspiring spirit--may have +been doomed to linger and perish here, chained, as it were, to the rocks, +like Prometheus, merely for having dreamed of kindling the fire of liberty +in their native land. + +22.--We have spent some days at Porto Praya, the capital of St. Jago, the +largest of the Cape de Verd islands; whence we sail to-day. A large part +of the population is composed of negroes and mulattoes, whose appearance +indicates that they are intemperate, dissolute, and vile. The Portuguese +residing here are generally but little better; as may be supposed from the +fact, that most of those who were not banished from Portugal, for +political or other offences, came originally to engage in the slave-trade. + +Going ashore to-day, we beached the boat, and a large negro, with a ragged +red shirt, waded out and took me on his shoulders. There is no position so +absurd, nor in which a man feels himself so utterly helpless, as when thus +dependant on the strength and sure-footedness of a fellow-biped. As we +left the boat, a heavy "roller" came in. The negro lost his footing, and I +my balance, and down we plunged into the surf. My sable friend seemed to +consider it a point of duty to hold stoutly by my legs, the inevitable +tendency of which manoeuvre was to keep my head under water. Having no +taste for a watery death, under these peculiar circumstances, I freed +myself by a vigorous kick, sprang to my feet, and seizing the negro by the +"ambrosial curls," pushed his head in turn under the surf. But seeing the +midshipmen and boat's crew laughing, noiselessly but heartily, at my +expense, the ludicrousness of the whole affair struck me so forcibly that +I joined in their mirth, and waded ashore as fast as possible. An +abolitionist, perhaps, might draw a moral from the story, and say that +all, who ride on the shoulders of the African race, deserve nothing better +than a similar overthrow. Sailed from Porto Praya. The bay of this port is +a good one, except in south-east gales, when the anchorage is dangerous. +The town, called Villa de Praya, contains about two thousand inhabitants +of every shade, the dark greatly predominating. Many vessels from Europe +and the United States, bound to India, Brazil, or Africa, find this a +convenient place to procure water and fresh provisions, and bring, in +return, much money into the city. There are three hundred troops here, +nearly all black, and commanded by forty Portuguese officers. The men are +under severe discipline, are tolerably well dressed, and make a soldierly +appearance. It is said that a St. Jago soldier formerly wore only a cocked +hat, being otherwise in a state of nature; but I cannot pretend to have +seen any instance of this extreme scantiness of equipment. + +23.--Saw a large green turtle asleep on the surface of the water. One of +our boats went alongside of him, and two men attempted to turn him over +with boat-hooks. He struggled successfully, however, to keep himself +"right side up," and, in a few moments, plunged beneath the surface. Once +upon his back, he would have been powerless and a prisoner, and we might +have hoped for the advantage of his presence at our mess-table. + +24.--At noon, the first rain came. It continued heavy and unremitting, for +twenty-four hours, after which there was a glimpse of the blue sky. Two +startling thunder-claps burst over the ship, at about 9 o'clock, A.M. Last +night, at 10, a heavy plunge carried away both our chain bobstays at once, +and all hands were turned up in the rain, to secure the bowsprit. + +The sanitary regulations of the squadron, induced by the commencement of +the rainy season, cause considerable mirth and some growling. One rule is, +that every man shall protect himself with flannel next his person, and at +night shall also wear a cloth-jacket and trowsers. Stoves are placed on +the berth-deck, to dry the atmosphere below. It is a curious fact, that, +in March last, at Portsmouth, N. H., with the thermometer at zero, we were +deprived of stoves the moment the powder came on board; while now in the +month of July, on the coast of Africa, sweltering at eighty degrees of +Fahrenheit, the fires are lighted throughout the ship. + +27.--Continual rain for the last three days. All miserable, but getting +used to it. + +29.--A clear day, and comfortably cool. Wind fair. + +30.--Made land, and saw an English brig of war. Commander Oakes, of the +Ferret, came on board. + +31.--Made Cape Mount. + +_August_ 1.--At 12, meridian, anchored at Cape Mesurado, off the town of +Monrovia. We find at anchor here the U. S. brig Porpoise, and a French +barque, as well as a small schooner, bearing the Liberian flag. This +consists of stripes and a cross, and may be regarded as emblematical of +the American origin of the colony, and of the Christian philanthropy to +which it owes its existence. Thirty or forty Kroomen came alongside. Three +officers of the Porpoise visited us. All are anxious to get back to the +United States. They coincide, however, in saying that, with simple +precautions, the health of this station is as good as that of any other. +They have had only a single case of fever on board; and, in that instance, +the patient was a man who ran away, and spent a night ashore. + +My old acquaintance, Captain Cooper, came on board, and is to be employed +as pilot. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.--Arrival at Cape Palmas--American +Missionaries--Prosperity of the Catholic Mission--King Freeman, and his +royal robe--Customs of the Kroo-people--Condition of native women. + + +_August_ 2.--We were visited by Governor Roberts, Doctor Day, and General +Lewis, the latter being colonial secretary, and military chief of the +settlement. They looked well, and welcomed me back to Liberia with the +cordiality of old friendship. The Governor was received by the commodore, +captain, and officers, and saluted with eleven guns. He and his suite +dined in the cabin, and some of the officers of the Porpoise in the +ward-room. In the evening, we brought out all our forces for the amusement +of our distinguished guests. First, the negro band sang "Old Dan Tucker," +"Jim along Josey," and other ditties of the same class, accompanied by +violin and tambourine. Then Othello played monkey, and gave a series of +recitations. The French cook sang with great spirit and skill. The +entertainments of the evening, as the theatrical bills expressed it, +concluded with Ma Normandie and other beautiful songs and airs well +executed by the French cook, accompanied by Symmes on the violin, and a +landsman on the flute. + +5.--Sailed for Cape Palmas, in company with the Porpoise. + +9.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. We were boarded by Kroo-men, in eight or ten +canoes. While the thermometer stood at 75 or 80 degrees, these naked +boatmen were shivering, and seemed absolutely to suffer with cold; and +such is the effect of the climate upon our own physical systems, that we +find woollen garments comfortable at the same temperature. + +Visited and lunched with Governor Rasswurm. Called on Mr. James, a colored +missionary, now occupying the house of Mr. Wilson, who has lately removed +to Gaboon river. Mr. James presented us with some ebony, and a few Grebo +books. He informed us that the fever had visited him more or less +severely, as often as once in four weeks during seven years. This may +truly be called a feverish life! He is about to remove to Gaboon. + +The Catholic Mission seems to have driven the Presbyterian from the +ground. We called on Mr. Kelly, a Catholic priest from Baltimore, and the +only white man of the Mission at present in Africa. Preparations, however, +have already been made for twenty more, principally French, whose arrival +is expected within a year, and who will establish themselves at different +points along the coast. Mr. Kelly is now finishing a very commodious +house, on a scale of some magnitude, with piazzas around the whole. There +is evidently no lack of money. The funds for the support of the Catholic +mission are derived principally through Lyons, in France; and the +enterprise is said to be under the patronage of the king. The abundant +pecuniary means which the priests have at command, and the imposing and +attractive ceremonies of their mode of worship--so well fitted to produce +an effect on uncultivated natures, where appeals either to the intellect +or the heart would be thrown away--are among the chief causes of their +success. It is said, too, and perhaps with truth, that as many converts +are made, among the natives, by presents, as by persuasion. But no small +degree of the prosperity of the mission must be attributed to the superior +shrewdness and ability of the persons engaged in it--to their skilful +adaptation of their precepts and modes of instruction to the people with +whom they have to deal, and to their employment of the maxims of worldly +policy in aid of their religious views. These qualities and rules of +conduct have characterized the Catholic missionaries in all ages, in all +parts of the world, and in their dealings with every variety of the human +race; and their success has everywhere been commensurate with the +superiority, in a merely temporal point of view, of the system on which +they acted. + +Before returning on board, we called on King Freeman, who received us, +seated on a chair which was placed in front of his house. His majesty's +royal robe was no other than an old uniform frock, which I had given him +three years ago. We accepted the chairs which he offered us, and held a +palaver, while some twenty of his subjects stood respectfully around. He +remembered my former visit to the colony, and appeared very glad to see me +again. His town was nearly deserted, the people having gone out to gather +rice. About the royal residence, and in the vicinity, I saw thirty or +forty cattle, most of them young, and all remarkably small. It is said, +and I believe it to be a fact, that cattle, and even fowls, when brought +from the interior, take the coast-fever, and often perish with it. Certain +it is that they do not flourish. + +11.--King Freeman came on board, dressed in his uniform frock, with two +epaulettes, a redcap, and checked trowsers. He received some powder and +bread from the Commodore, and some trifles from the ward-room. + +12.--Joe Davis brought his son on board to "learn sense." In pursuit of +this laudable object, the young man is to make a cruise with us. The +father particularly requested that his son might be flogged, saying, +"Spose you lick him, you gib him sense!" On such a system, a man-of-war is +certainly no bad school of improvement. + +13.--A delightful day, clear sky, and cool breeze. We sailed from Cape +Palmas yesterday, steering up the coast. + +I have been conversing with young Ben Johnson, one of our Kroomen, on the +conjugal and other customs of his countrymen. These constitute quite a +curious object of research. The Kroomen are indispensable in carrying on +the commerce and maritime business of the African coast. When a Kroo-boat +comes alongside, you may buy the canoe, hire the men at a moment's +warning, and retain them in your service for months. They expend no time +nor trouble in providing their equipment, since it consists merely of a +straw hat and a piece of white or colored cotton girded about their loins. +In their canoes, they deposit these girdles in the crowns of their hats; +nor is it unusual, when a shower threatens them on shore, to see them +place this sole garment in the same convenient receptacle, and then make +for shelter. When rowing a boat, or paddling a canoe, it is their custom +to sing; and, as the music goes on, they seem to become invigorated, +applying their strength cheerfully, and with limbs as unwearied as their +voices. One of their number leads in recitative, and the whole company +respond in the chorus. The subject of the song is a recital of the +exploits of the men, their employments, their intended movements, the news +of the coast, and the character of their employers. It is usual, in these +extemporary strains, for the Kroomen attached to a man-of-war to taunt, +with good-humored satire, their friends who are more laboriously employed +in merchant vessels, and not so well fed and paid. + +Their object in leaving home, and entering into the service of navigators, +is generally to obtain the means of purchasing wives, the number of whom +constitutes a man's importance. The sons of "gentlemen" (for there is such +a distinction of rank among them) never labor at home, but do not hesitate +to go away, for a year or two, and earn something to take to their +families. On the return of these wanderers--not like the prodigal son, but +bringing wealth to their kindred--great rejoicings are instituted. A +bullock is killed by the head of the family, guns are fired, and two or +three days are spent in the performance of various plays and dances. The +"boy" gives all his earnings to his father, and places himself again under +the parental authority. The Krooman of maturer age, on his return from an +expedition of this kind, buys a wife, or perhaps more than one, and +distributes the rest of his accumulated gains among his relatives. In a +week, he has nothing left but his wives and his house. + +Age is more respected by the Africans than by any other people. Even if +the son be forty years old, he seldom seeks to emancipate himself from the +paternal government. If a young man falls in love, he, in the first place, +consults his father. The latter makes propositions to the damsel's father, +who, if his daughter agree to the match, announces the terms of purchase. +The price varies in different places, and is also influenced by other +circumstances, such as the respectability and power of the family, and the +beauty and behavior of the girl. The arrangements here described are often +made when the girl is only five or six years of age, in which case she +remains with her friends until womanhood, and then goes to the house of +her bridegroom. + + Meantime, her family receive the stipulated price, and are responsible +for her good behavior. Should she prove faithless, and run away, her +purchase-money must be refunded by her friends, who, in their turn, have a +claim upon the family of him who seduces or harbors her. If prompt +satisfaction be not made (which, however, is generally the case), there +will be a "big palaver," and a much heavier expense for damages and costs. +If, after the commencement of married life, the husband is displeased with +his wife's conduct, he complains to her father, who either takes her back, +and repays the dowry, or more frequently advises that she be flogged. In +the latter alternative, she is tied, starved, and severely beaten; a mode +of conjugal discipline which generally produces the desired effect. + +Should the wife be suspected of infidelity, the husband may charge her +with it, and demand that she drink the poisonous decoction of sassy-wood, +which is used as the test of guilt or innocence, in all cases that are +considered too uncertain for human judgment. If her stomach free itself +from the fatal draught by vomiting, she is declared innocent, and is taken +back by her family without repayment of the dower. On the other hand, if +the poison begin to take effect, she is pronounced guilty; an emetic is +administered in the shape of common soap; and her husband may, at his +option, either send her home, or cut off her nose and ears. + +There is one sad discrepancy in the moral system of these people, as +regards the virtue of the women. No disgrace is imputed to the wife who +admits the immoral advances of a white man, provided it be done with the +knowledge and consent of her husband. The latter, in whose eyes the white +man is one of a distinct and superior order of beings, usually considers +himself honored by an affair of this nature, and makes it likewise a +matter of profit. All proposals, in view of such a connection, must pass +through the husband; nor, it is affirmed, is there any hazard of wounding +his delicacy, or awakening his resentment, whatever be his rank and +respectability. The violated wife returns to the domestic roof with +undiminished honor, and confines herself as rigidly within the limits of +her nuptial vow, as if this singular suspension of it had never taken +place. + + In spite of the degradation indicated by the above customs, the +Kroo-women are rather superior to other native females, and seem to occupy +a higher social position. The wife first married holds the purse, directs +the household affairs, and rules the other women, who labor diligently for +the benefit of their common husband and master. Their toil constitutes his +wealth. It is usual for a man to live two, three, or four days, with each +of his wives in turn. As old age advances, he loses the control of his +female household, most of the members of which run away, unless he is wise +enough to dispose of them (as usage permits) to his more youthful +relatives. As a Krooman of sixty or seventy often has wives in their +teens, it is not to be wondered at that they should occasionally show a +disposition to rove. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Return to Monrovia--Sail for Porto Praya--The Union Hotel--Reminiscences +of famine at the Cape de Verds--Frolics of Whalemen--Visit to the island +of St. Antonio--A dance--Fertility of the island--A Yankee clock-maker--A +mountain ride--City of Poverson--Point de Sol--Kindness of the women--The +handsome commandant--A Portuguese dinner. + + +_August_ 14.--Passed near Sinoe, a colonial settlement, but did not show +our colors. An English merchant brig was at anchor. Our pilot observed, +that this settlement was not in a flourishing condition, because it +received no great "_resistance_" from the Colonization Society. Of +course, he meant to say, "_assistance_;" but there was an unintentional +philosophy in the remark. Many plants thrive best in adversity. + +Anchored at the river Sesters, and sent a boat ashore. Two canoes paddled +alongside, and their head-men came on board. One was a beautifully formed +man, and walked the deck with a picturesque dignity of aspect and motion. +He had more the movement of an Indian, than any negro I ever saw. Two men +were left in each boat, to keep her alongside, and wait the movements of +their master. They kneel in the boat, and sit on their heels. When a +biscuit is thrown to them, they put it on their thighs, and thence eat it +at their leisure. + +16.--Ashore at Monrovia. The buildings look dilapidated, and the wooden +walls are in a state of decay. Houses of stone are coming into vogue. +There is a large stone court-house, intended likewise for a Legislative +Hall. What most interested me, was an African pony, a beautiful animal, +snow white, with a head as black as ebony. I also saw five men chained +together, by the neck; three colonists and two natives, with an overseer +superintending them. They had been splitting stone for Government. + +A gun from the ship gave the signal for our return. Going on board, we got +under way, and sailed for Porto Praya. + + 20.--For four days, we have had much rain; and I have seldom visited the +deck, except when duty called me. Fortunately, Governor Roberts had lent +me the report of the Committee of Parliament, on the Western Coast of +Africa, the perusal of which has afforded me both pleasant and profitable +occupation. It is an excellent work, full of facts, from men who have +spent years on the coast. + +21.--Wind still favorable. The day is sunny, and all are on deck to enjoy +the air. Damp clothes hang in the rigging to-day, and mouldy boots and +shoes fill the boats. + +24.--We find ourselves again off the harbor of Porto Praya. I landed in +quest of news, and heard of the death of Mr. Legare, and the loss of the +store-ship, at this port. All hands were saved, but with the sacrifice of +several thousand dollars' worth of property, besides the vessel. + +On approaching the shore, three flags are observed to be flying in the +town. One is the consular flag of our own nation; another is the banner of +Portugal; and the third, being blue, white, and blue, is apt to puzzle a +stranger, until he reads UNION HOTEL, in letters a foot long. When last at +Porto Praya, a few friends and myself took some slight refreshment at the +hotel, and were charged so exorbitantly, that we forswore all visits to +the house in future. To-day, the keeper stopt me in the street, and begged +the favor of our patronage. On my representing the enormity of his former +conduct, he declared that it was all a mistake; that he was the master of +the hotel, and was unfortunately absent at the time. I was pleased with +this effrontery, having paid the exorbitant charge into his own hands, not +a month before. It is delightful, in these remote, desolate, and +semi-barbarous regions, to meet with characteristics that remind us of a +more polished and civilized land. + +The streets are hot and deserted, and the town more than ordinarily dull, +as most of the inhabitants are out planting. The court has gone to +Buonavista, on account of the unhealthiness of Porta Praya, at this season +of the year. A few dozen scrubby trees have been planted in the large +square, but, though protected by palings and barrels, have not reached the +height of two feet. In the centre stands a marble monument, possibly +intended for a fountain, but wholly destitute of water. + +25.--The boat went ashore again, and brought off the consul, and some +stores. We then made sail, passing to the windward of all the islands, and +reached our former anchorage at Porto Grande. + +28.--There are one barque and three brigs, all American whalers, in the +harbor of Porto Grande. They have been out from three to six months, and +are here for water, bad though it be, and fresh provisions. Their +inducements to visit this port, are the goodness of the harbor, and the +smallness of the port charges. No consular fee has been paid until now, +when, an agent being appointed, each vessel pays him a perquisite of four +dollars. + +This group of islands is chiefly interesting to Americans, as being the +resort of our whale-ships, to refit and obtain supplies, and of other +vessels trading to the coast of Africa. Little was generally known of +them, however, in America, until 1832, when a long-continued drought +parched up the fields, destroyed the crops, and reduced the whole +population to the verge of death, by famine. Not less than ten thousand +did actually perish of hunger; and the remainder were saved only by the +timely, prompt and bountiful supplies, sent out from every part of the +United States. I well remember the thrill of compassion that pervaded the +community at home, on hearing that multitudes were starving in the Cape de +Verd islands. Without pausing to inquire who they were, or whether +entitled to our assistance, by any other than the all-powerful claim of +wretchedness, the Americans sent vessel after vessel, laden with food, +which was gratuitously distributed to the poor. The supplies were liberal +and unremitted, until the rains returned, and gave the usual crops to the +cultivators. + +Twelve years have passed since that dismal famine; but the memory of the +aid extended by Americans has not yet faded, nor seems likely to fade, +from the minds of those who were succored in their need. I have heard men, +who were then saved from starvation, speak strongly and feelingly on the +subject, with quivering lip and faltering voice. Women, likewise, with +streaming eyes, to this day, invoke blessings on the foreign land that fed +their children, when there was no other earthly help. England, though +nearer, and in more intimate connection with these islands, sent not a +mouthful of food; and Portugal, the mother country, shipped only one or +two small cargoes to be sold; while America fed the starving thousands, +gratuitously, for months. Our consul at Porto Praya, Mr. Gardner, after +making a strong and successful appeal to the sympathies of his own +countrymen, distributed his own stores to the inhabitants, until he was +well-nigh beggared. He enjoys the only reward he sought, in the approval +of his conscience, as well as the gratitude of the community; and America, +too, may claim more true glory from this instance of general benevolence, +pervading the country from one end to the other, than from any victory in +our annals. + +29.--Ashore again. An ox for our ship was driven in from the mountains by +three or four horsemen and as many dogs, who chased him till he took +refuge in the water. A boat now put off, and soon overtaking the tired +animal, he was tied securely. When towed ashore, one rope was fastened +round his horns, and another to his fore-foot, each held by a negro, while +a third took a strong gripe of his tail. In this manner, they led and +drove him along, the fellow behind occasionally biting the beast's tail, +to quicken his motions; until at length the poor creature was made fast to +an anchor on the beach, there to await the butcher. + +There is here a miserable church, but no priest. Passing the edifice +to-day, I saw seven or eight women at their devotions. Instead of +kneeling, they were seated, with their chins resting on their knees, on +the shady side of the church. + +30.--The crews of the whale-ships, when ashore, occasionally give no +little trouble to the colonial police. This evening, one of their sailors +came up to us, quite intoxicated, and bleeding from a hurt in his head. He +was bent upon vengeance for his wound, but puzzled how to get it; inasmuch +as a female hand had done the mischief, by cutting his head open with a +bottle. His chivalry would not allow him to strike a woman; nor could he +find any man who would acknowledge himself her relative. In this dilemma, +he was raving through the little village, accompanied by several of his +brother whale-men, mostly drunk, and ready for a row. The Portuguese +officer on duty called out the guard, consisting of two negroes with fixed +bayonets, and caused them to march back and forth in the street. Fifty +paces in the village would bring them to the country; when the detachment +came to the right about, and retraced its steps. These two negroes formed +precisely two-fifths of the regular military force at Porto Grande; but, +besides this formidable host, there are some thirty officers and soldiers +of the National Guard, comprising all the negro population able to bear +clubs. + +The women here have a peculiar mode of carrying children, when two or +three years old. The child sits astride of the mother's left hip, clinging +with hands and feet, and partially supported by her left arm. The little +personage being in a state of total nudity, and of course very slippery, +this is doubtless the most convenient method that could be adopted. + +The gait of the women is remarkably free and unembarrassed. With no +constraint of stays or corsets, and often innocent of any covering, the +shoulders have full play, and the arms swing more than I have ever seen +those of men, in our own country. Their robes are neither too abundant, +nor too tight, to prevent the exhibition of a very martial stride. The +scanty clothing worn here is owing partly, but not entirely, to the warmth +of the climate. Another cogent reason is the poverty of the inhabitants; +so, at least, I infer from the continual petitions for clothes, and from +remarks like the following, made to me by a mulatto woman:--"You very good +man, you got plenty clothes, plenty shirt." + +_September_ 3.--The Cornelia, of New Bedford, came in and anchored. She +has been out fifteen months, and has only 400 barrels of oil. + +4.--Left the ship in the launch on an expedition to the neighboring island +of St. Antonio; being despatched by the Commodore to procure information +as to the facilities for anchoring ships, and obtaining water and +refreshments. Our boat was sloop-rigged, and carried three officers, a +passenger, and ten men. At 11 A.M. we "sheeted home," and stood out of the +harbor with a fair breeze, and all canvass spread: but, within an hour, +the wind freshened to a gale, and compelled us to take in everything but a +close reefed mainsail. The sea being rough, and the weather squally, our +boat took in more water than was either agreeable or safe, until we +somewhat improved matters by constructing a temporary forecastle of +tarpaulins. Finding it impossible, however, to contend against wind and +current, we bore up for an anchorage called Santa Cruz. This was formerly +a notorious haunt for pirates; but no vestige of a settlement remains, +save the ruins of an old stone house, which may probably have been the +theatre of wild and bloody incidents, in by-gone years. The serrated hills +are grey and barren, and the surrounding country shows no verdure. +Anchoring here, we waited several hours for the wind to moderate, and +tried to get such sleep as might perchance be caught in an unsteady boat. + +By great diligence in working against wind and current, we succeeded in +reaching Genella at 9 o'clock in the evening of the second day. Our +mulatto pilot, Manuel Quatrine, whistled shrilly through his fingers; and, +after a brief delay, the response of a similar whistle reached our ears +from shore. A conversation was sustained for some moments, by means of +shouts to-and-fro in Portuguese; a man then swam off to reconnoitre; and, +on his return, the people launched a canoe and carried us ashore, weary +enough of thirty-six hours' confinement in an open boat. We took up our +quarters in the house of a decent negro, who seemed to be the head man of +the village, and, after eating such a supper as the place could supply, +sallied out to give the women an opportunity of preparing our beds. + +Meanwhile, the pilot had not been idle. Though a married man, and the +father of six children, he was a gay Lothario, and a great favorite with +the sex; he could sing, dance, and touch the guitar with infinite spirit, +and tolerable skill. Being well known in the village, it is not surprising +that the arrival of so accomplished a personage should have disturbed the +slumbers of the inhabitants. At ten o'clock, a dance was arranged before +the door of one of the huts. The dark-skinned maidens, requiring but +little time to put on their ball-costume, came dropping in, until, before +midnight, there were thirty or forty dancers on foot. The figures were +compounded of the contra-dance and reel, with some remarkable touches of +the Mandingo balance. The music proceeded from one or two guitars, which, +however, were drowned a great part of the time, by the singing of the +girls and the clapping of each individual pair of hands in the whole +party. A calabash of sour wine, munificently bestowed by a spectator, +increased the fun, and it continued to wax higher and more furious, as the +night wore away. Our little pilot was, throughout, the leader of the +frolic, and acquitted himself admirably. His nether garments having +received serious detriment in the voyage, he borrowed a large heavy +pea-jacket, to conceal the rents, and in this garb danced for hours with +the best, in a sultry night. Long before the festivity was over, my +companions and myself stretched ourselves on a wide bag of straw, and fell +asleep, lulled by the screaming of the dancers. + +The next morning we were early on foot, and looked around us with no small +interest. The village is situated at the point where a valley opens upon +the shore. The sides of this vale are steep, and, in many places, high, +perpendicular, and rocky. Every foot of earth is cultivated; and where the +natural inclination of the hill is too great to admit of tillage, stone +walls are built to sustain terraces, which rise one over another like +giant steps to the mountain-tops. It was the beginning of harvest, and the +little valley presented an appearance of great fertility. Corn, bananas, +figs, guavas, grapes, oranges, sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, and many other +fruits and vegetables, are raised in abundance. The annual vintage in this +and a neighboring valley, appertaining to the same parish, amounts to +about seventy-five pipes of wine. It is sour and unpalatable, not unlike +hard-cider and water. When a cultivator first tries his wine, it is a +custom of the island for him to send notice to all his acquaintances, who +invariably come in great force, each bringing a piece of salt-fish to keep +his thirst alive. Not unfrequently, the whole produce of the season is +exhausted by a single carouse. + +The people are all negroes and mulattoes. Male and female, they are very +expert swimmers, and are often in the habit of swimming out to sea, with a +basket or notched stick to hold their fish; and thus they angle for hours, +resting motionless on the waves, unless attacked by a shark. In this +latter predicament, they turn upon their backs, and kick and splash until +the sea-monster be frightened away. They appear to be a genial and +pleasant-tempered race. As we walked through the village, they saluted us +with "Blessed be the name of the Lord!" Whether this expression (a +customary courtesy of the islanders) were mere breath, or proceeded out of +the depths of the heart, is not for us to judge; but, at all events, heard +in so wild and romantic a place, it made a forcible impression on my mind. +When we were ready to depart, all the villagers came to the beach, with +whatever commodities they were disposed to offer for sale; a man carrying +a squealing pig upon his shoulders; women with fruits and fowls; girls +with heavy bunches of bananas or bundles of cassada on their heads; and +boys, with perhaps a single egg. Each had something, and all lingered on +the shore until our boat was fairly off. + +Five or six miles further, we landed at Paolo, where reside several +families who regard themselves as the aristocracy of St. Antonio, on the +score of being connected with Senor Martinez, the great man of these +islands. Their houses are neatly built, and the fields and gardens well +cultivated. They received us hospitably, principally because one of our +party was a connection of the family. I was delighted with an exhibition +of feeling on the part of an old negro servant-woman. She came into the +parlor, sat down at the feet of our companion, embraced his knees, and +looked up in his face with a countenance full of joy, mingled with respect +and confidence. We saw but two ladies at this settlement. One was a matron +with nine children; the other a dark brunette, very graceful and pleasing, +with the blackest eyes and whitest teeth in the world. She wore a shawl +over the right shoulder and under the left arm, arranged in a truly +fascinating manner. + +The poorer classes in the vicinity are nearly all colored, and mostly +free. They work for eight or ten cents a day, living principally on fruit +and vegetables, and are generally independent, because their few wants are +limited to the supply. The richest persons live principally within +themselves, and derive their meats, vegetables, fruits, wine, brandy, +sugar, coffee, oil, and most other necessaries and luxuries, from their +own plantations. One piece of furniture, however, to be seen in several of +the houses, was evidently not the manufacture of the island, but an export +of Yankee-land. It was the wooden clock, in its shining mahogany case, +adorned with bright red and yellow pictures of Saints and the Virgin, to +suit the taste of good Catholics. It might have been fancied that the +renowned Sam Slick, having glutted all other markets with his wares, had +made a voyage to St. Antonio. Nor did they lack a proper artist to keep +the machine in order. We met here a person whom we at first mistook for a +native, so identical were his manners and appearance with those of the +inhabitants; until, in conversation, we found him to be a Yankee, who had +run away from a whale-ship, and established himself as a clock and +watch-maker. + +After a good night's rest, another officer and myself left Paolo, early, +for a mountain ride. The little pilot led the way on a donkey; my friend +followed on a mule, and I brought up the rear on horseback. We began to +ascend, winding along the rocky path, one by one, there being no room to +ride two abreast. The road had been cut with much labor, and, in some +places, was hollowed out of the side of the cliff, thus forming a gallery +of barely such height and width as to admit the passage of a single +horseman, and with a low wall of loose stones between the path and the +precipice. At other points, causeways of small stones and earth had been +built up, perhaps twenty feet high, along the top of which ran the path. +On looking at these places from some projecting point, it made us shudder +to think that we had just passed, where the loosening of a single one of +those small stones might have carried us down hundreds of feet, to certain +destruction. The whole of the way was rude and barren. Here and there a +few shrubs grew in the crevices of the rocks, or wild flowers, of an +aspect strange to our eyes, wasted their beauty in solitude; and the small +orchilla weed spread itself moss-like over the face of the cliff. At one +remarkable point, the path ran along the side of the precipice, about +midway of its height. Above, the rock rose frowningly, at least five +hundred feet over our heads. Below, it fell perpendicularly down to the +beach. The roar of the sea did not reach us, at our dizzy height, and the +heavy surf-waves, in which no boat could live, seemed to kiss the shore as +gently as the ripple of a summer-lake. This was the most elevated point of +the road, which thence began to descend; but the downward track was as +steep and far more dangerous. At times, the animals actually slid down +upon their haunches. In other places, they stept from stone to stone, down +steep descents, where the riders were obliged to lie backwards flat upon +the cruppers. + +Over all these difficulties, our guide urged his donkey gaily and +unconcernedly. As for myself, though I have seen plenty of rough riding, +and am as ready as most men to follow, if not to lead, I thought it no +shame to dismount more than once. The rolling of a stone, or the parting +of stirrup, girth, or crupper, would have involved the safety of one's +neck. Nor did the very common sight of wooden crosses along the path, +indicating sudden death by accident or crime, tend to lessen the sense of +insecurity. The frequent casualties among these precipitous paths, +together with the healthfulness of the climate, have made it a proverb, +that it is a natural death, at St. Antonio, to be dashed to pieces on the +rocks. But such was not our fate. We at length reached the sea-shore, and +rode for a mile along the beach to the city of Poverson, before entering +which metropolis, it was necessary to cross a space of level, sandy +ground, about two hundred yards in extent. Here the little pilot suddenly +stuck his heels into the sides of his donkey, and dashed onward at a +killing pace; while mule and horse followed hard upon his track, to the +great admiration of ragamuffins, who had assembled to witness the entree +of the distinguished party. + +Poverson is the capital of the island, and contains about two thousand +inhabitants, who, with few exceptions, are people of color. The streets +are crooked and narrow, and the houses mean. We called upon the military +and civil Governors, and, after accepting an invitation to dine with the +former, left the place for a further expedition. Passing over a shallow +river, in which a number of women and girls were washing clothes, we +ascended a hill so steep as to oblige us to dismount, and from the summit +of which we had a fine view of the rich valley beneath. It is by far the +most extensive tract of cultivated land that we have seen in the island, +and is improved to its utmost capacity. We thence rode three miles over a +path of the same description as before, and arrived at the village and +port of Point-de-Sol. The land about this little town is utterly barren, +and the inhabitants are dependent on Poverson for food, with the exception +of fish. A custom-house, a single store, a church, and some twenty houses +of fishermen, comprise all the notable characteristics of the principal +seaport of the island. + +It was a part of our duty to make an examination of the harbor, for which +purpose we needed a boat. Two were hauled up on the beach; but the +smallest would have required the power of a dozen men to launch +her;--whereas, the fishermen being absent in their vocation, our party of +three, and a big boy at the store, comprised our whole available masculine +strength. The aid of woman, however, is seldom sought in vain; nor did it +fail us now. Old and young, matron and maid, they all sallied forth to +lend a hand, and, with such laughing and screaming as is apt to attend +feminine efforts, enabled us to launch the boat. In spite of their patois +of bad Portuguese, we contrived to establish a mutual understanding. A +fine, tall girl, with a complexion of deep olive, clear, large eyes, and +teeth beautifully white and even, stood by my side; and, like the Ancient +Mariner and his sister's son, we pulled together. She was strong, and, as +Byron says, "lovely in her strength." This difficulty surmounted, we rowed +round the harbor, made our examination, and returned to the beach, where +we again received the voluntary assistance of the women, in dragging the +boat beyond the reach of the waves. We now adjourned to the store, in +order to requite their kindness by a pecuniary offering. Each of our fair +friends received two large copper coins, together equal to nine cents, and +were perfectly satisfied, as well they might be--for it was the price of a +day's work. Two or three individuals, moreover, "turned double corners," +and were paid twice; and it is my private belief that the tall beauty +received her two coppers three times over. + +After a lunch of fried plantains and eggs, we rode back to Poverson. On +the way, we met several persons of both sexes with burdens on their heads, +and noticed that our guide frequently accosted them with a request for a +pinch of snuff. With few exceptions, a horn or piece of bone was produced, +containing a fine yellow snuff of home-manufacture, which, instead of +being taken between the thumb and finger, was poured into the palm of the +hand, and thence conveyed to the nose. Arriving at the city, we proceeded +at once to the house of the Commandant, and in a little time were seated +at dinner. + +Our host was fitted by nature to adorn a far more brilliant position than +that which he occupied, as the petty commander of a few colored soldiers, +in a little island of the torrid zone. He was slightly made, but perfectly +proportioned, with a face of rare beauty, and an expression at once noble +and pleasing. His eyes were large, and full of a dark light; his black +hair and moustache were trimmed with a care that showed him not insensible +of his personal advantages; as did likewise his braided jacket, fitting so +closely as to set off his fine figure to the best effect. His manners were +in a high degree polished and graceful. One of the guests, whom he had +invited to meet us, understood English; and the conversation was sustained +in that language, and in Spanish. The dinner was cooked and served in the +Portuguese style; it went off very pleasantly, and was quite as good as +could be expected at the house of a bachelor, in a place so seldom visited +by strangers. Each of the Portuguese gentlemen gave a sentiment, prefaced +by a short complimentary speech; and our party, of course, reciprocated in +little speeches of the same nature. The Commandant did not fail to express +the gratitude due from the people of the Cape de Verd islands to America, +for assistance in the hour of need. Time did not permit us to remain long +at table, and we took leave, highly delighted with our entertainment. + +Mounting again, we rode out of town more quietly than we had entered it. A +sergeant was drilling some twenty negro soldiers in marching and wheeling. +His orders were given in a quick, loud tone, and enforced by the +occasional application of smart blows of a rattan to the shoulders of his +men. Suspecting that the blows fell thicker because we were witnesses of +his discipline, it seemed a point of humanity to hasten forward; +especially as the approach of night threatened to make our journey still +more perilous than before. After riding about three miles, we met two +well-dressed mulatto women on donkeys, accompanied by their cavaliers. Of +course, we allowed the ladies to pass between us and the rock; a matter of +no slight courtesy in such a position, where there was a very +uncomfortable hazard of being jostled headlong down the precipice. We +escaped, however, and spurring onward through the gloom of night, passed +unconsciously over several rough spots where we had dismounted in the +morning. The last mile of our mountain-ride was lighted by the moon; and, +as we descended the last hill, the guide gave a shrill whistle, to which +the boat's crew responded with three cheers for our return. + +A good night's rest relieved us of our fatigue. The following morning, +with a fair breeze and a six hours' sail, we reached our floating-home, +and have ever since entertained the mess-table with the "yarn" of our +adventures; until now the subject is beginning to be worn thread-bare. +But, as the interior of the island of St. Antonio is one of the few +regions of the earth as yet uncelebrated by voyagers and tourists, I +cannot find in my heart to spare the reader a single sentence of the +foregoing narrative. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Arrival of the Macedonian--Return to the Coast of Africa--Emigrants to +Liberia--Tornadoes--Maryland in Liberia--Nature of its Government--Perils +of the Bar--Mr. Russwurm--The Grebo Tribe--Manner of disposing of their +Dead. + + +_September_ 9.--Weighed anchor, and stood out to sea. At 8 o'clock A.M., +made the frigate Macedonian. She saluted the broad pennant, and both ships +bore up for Porto Grande, where we anchored, and read the news from home. + +11.--The Commodore left the ship, and hoisted his broad pennant on board +the Macedonian. + +16.--Sailed at 6 o'clock P.M., for Porto Praya. + +17.--Anchored at Porto Praya, where we find the Decatur, which arrived +yesterday, after a passage of forty-five days from Norfolk. + +22.--Sailed in the evening for the coast. + +_October_ 7.--Off Cape Mount. + +8.--Ashore at Monrovia. It being Sunday, we attended the Methodist Church. +Mr. Teage, editor of the Liberia Herald, preached an appropriate and +well-written discourse, on occasion of admitting three men and a woman to +church-membership. One of the males was a white, who had married a colored +woman in America, and came out to the colony with Mr. McDonough's people, +some time ago. His wife being dead, he has married another woman of color, +and is determined to live and die here. + +10.--Dined with the Governor. Visited the house of a poor colonist, a +woman with two children and no husband. She endeavors to support her +family by washing. Two or three, other women of the neighborhood dropped +in. It is said that the proportion of female emigrants to males is as +three and a half to one. Unless it be expected that these women are to +work in the fields, it is difficult to imagine how they are to earn a +subsistence. A little chance washing and sewing, not enough to employ one +in ten, is all they have to depend upon. The consequence is, that every +person, of even moderate means of living, has two or three women to feed +and clothe. They do not need their services, but cannot let them starve. +This is one of the drawbacks upon Colonization. + +Even the able-bodied men are generally unfit for promoting the prosperity +of the colony. A very large proportion of them are slaves, just liberated. +Accustomed to be ruled and taken care of by others, they are no better +than mere children, as respects the conduct and economy of life. In +America, their clothes, food, medicines, and all other necessaries, have +been furnished without a thought on their own part; and when sent to +Liberia, with high notions of freedom and exemption from labor (ideas +which with many are synonymous), they prove totally inadequate to sustain +themselves. I perceive, in Colonization reports, that the owners of slaves +frequently offer to liberate them, on condition of their being sent to +Liberia; and that the Society has contracted debts, and embarrassed itself +in various ways, rather than let such offers pass. In my opinion, many of +the slaves, thus offered, are of little value to the donors, and of even +less to the cause of Colonization. Better to discriminate carefully in the +selection of emigrants, than to send out such numbers of the least +eligible class, to become burdens upon the industrious and intelligent, +who might otherwise enjoy comfort and independence. Many a colonist, at +this moment, sacrifices his interest to his humanity, and feels himself +kept back in life by the urgent claims of compassion. + +The Society allows to new emigrants provisions for six months. After that +period, if unable to take care of themselves, they must either starve, or +be supported by the charitable. Fifty young or middle-aged men, who had +been accustomed to self-guidance in America, would do more to promote the +prosperity of the colony, than five hundred such emigrants as are usually +sent out. The thievish propensity of many of the poor and indolent +colonists is much complained of by the industrious. On this account, more +than any other, it is difficult to raise stock. The vice has been acquired +in America, and is not forgotten in Africa. + +13.--A rainy morning. Last night we were all roused from sleep by the sea +coming into the starboard air-ports. We of the larboard side laughed at +the misfortune of our comrades, and closed our own ports, without taking +the precaution to screw them in. Half an hour afterwards, a very heavy +swell assailed us on the larboard, beat in all the loose ports, and +deluged the rooms. I found myself suddenly awakened and cooled by a +cataract of water pouring over me. Out jumped the larboard sleepers, in +dripping night-gear, and shouted lustily for lights, buckets, and swabs; +while the starboard gentlemen laughed long and loud, in their turn. + +14.--Sailed for the leeward. + +17.--Beautiful weather. This afternoon all hands were called to shorten +sail, in those earnest, startling tones, which are prompted by the sense +of danger alone. Every man sprang to his station with the instinctive +readiness of disciplined seamen. The idlers were all on deck, and looked +about for the cause. Had a man fallen overboard? No! Nor was there any +particular appearance of a squall. But the earnest gaze of the commander +and a passenger, towards the shore, drew all eyes in the same direction; +and, behold! a smoke was seen rising from the land, which had been +mistaken for the cloud that precedes the tornado. It is necessary to +prepare for many blows that do not come. In the tornado-seasons (which may +be estimated at four or five weeks, about the months of March and +November), there are frequent appearances of squalls, sometimes as often +as twice or thrice in twenty-four hours. The horizon grows black, with +very much the aspect of a thunder-shower in America. Generally, the +violence of the wind does not equal the apprehensions always entertained. +We could have carried royals through nineteen out of twenty of the +tornadoes that assailed our ship; but the twentieth might have taken the +sticks out of us. The harmless, as well as the heavy tornadoes, have the +same black and threatening aspect. They usually blow from the land, +although once, while at anchor, we experienced one from seaward. + +19.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. This colony is independent, of Liberia +proper, and is under the jurisdiction and patronage of the Maryland State +Colonization Society. Its title is Maryland in Liberia. The local +government is composed of an agent and an assistant agent, both to be +appointed by the Society at home, for two years; a secretary, to be +appointed by the agent annually; and a vice-agent, two counsellors, a +register, a sheriff, a treasurer, and a committee on new emigrants, to be +chosen by the people. Several minor officers are appointed by the agent, +who is entrusted with great powers. The judiciary consists of the agent, +and a competent number of justices of the peace, who are appointed by him, +and two of whom, together with the agent, constitute the Supreme Court. A +single justice has jurisdiction in small criminal cases, and in all civil +cases where the claim does not exceed twenty dollars. + +Male colored people, at twenty years of age, are entitled to vote, if they +hold land in their own right, or pay a tax of one dollar. Every emigrant +must sign a pledge to support the constitution, and to refrain from the +use of ardent spirits, except in case of sickness. By a provision of the +constitution, emigration is never to be prohibited. + +Our boat attempted to land at some rocks, just outside of the port, in +order to avoid crossing the bar; but as the tide was low, and the surf +troublesome, we found it impracticable. I hate a bar; there is no fair +play about it. The long rollers come in from the sea, and, in consequence +of the shallowness of the water, seem to pile themselves up so as +inevitably to overwhelm you, unless you have skilful rowers, a good +helmsman, and a lively boat. At one moment, your keel, perhaps, touches +the sand; the next, you are lifted upon a wave and borne swiftly along for +many yards, while the men lie on their oars, or only pull an occasional +stroke, to keep the boat's head right. Now they give way with a will, to +escape a white-crested wave that comes trembling and roaring after them; +and now again they cease rowing, or back water, awaiting a favorable +moment to cross. Should you get into a trough of the sea, you stand a very +pretty chance to be swamped, and have your boat rolled over and over upon +its crew; while, perchance, a hungry shark may help himself to a leg or +arm. + +Pulling across this ugly barrier, we landed at the only wharf of which the +colony can boast. There is here a stone warehouse, but of no great size. +In front of it lay a large log, some thirty feet long, on which twelve or +fourteen full grown natives were roosting, precisely like turkeys on a +pole. They are accustomed to sit for hours together in this position, +resting upon their heels. A girl presented us with a note, informing all +whom it might concern, that Mrs. ---- would do our washing; but, as the +ship's stay was to be short, we turned our attention to the cattle, of +which a score or two were feeding in the vicinity. They are small, but, +having been acclimated, are sleek and well-conditioned. As I have before +observed, it is a well-established fact, that all four-footed emigrants +are not less subject to the coast fever than bipeds. Horses, cattle, and +even fowls, whether imported or brought from the interior to the coast, +speedily sicken, and often die. + +I dined with Mr. Russwurm, the colonial agent, a man of distinguished +ability and of collegiate education. He gave me, some monkey-skins and +other curiosities, and favored me with much information respecting the +establishment. The mean temperature of the place is eighty degrees of +Fahrenheit, which is something less than that of Monrovia, on account of +its being more open to the sea. The colony comprises six hundred and fifty +inhabitants, all of whom dwell within four miles of the Cape. Besides the +settlement of Harper, situated on the Cape itself, there is that of Mount +Tubman (named in honor of Mr. T. of Georgia), which lies beyond Mount +Vaughan, and three and a half miles from Cape Palmas. There is no road to +the interior of the country, except a native path. The agent, with a party +of twenty, recently penetrated about seventy miles into the Bush, passing +through two tribes, and coming to a third, of large numbers and strength. +The king of the latter tribe has a large town, where many manufactures are +carried on, such as iron implements and wooden furniture of various kinds. +He refused Mr. Russwurm an escort, alleging that there was war, but sent +his son to the coast, to see the _black-white_ people and their +improvements. + +A large native tribe, the Grebo, dwells at Cape Palmas in the midst of the +colonists. Their conical huts, to the number of some hundreds, present the +most interesting part of the scene. Opposite the town, upon an uninhabited +island at no great distance, the dead are exposed, clad in their best +apparel, and furnished with food, cloth, crockery, and other articles. A +canoe is placed over the body. This island of the dead is called by a +name, which, in the plainest of English, signifies "Go-to-Hell;" a +circumstance that seems to imply very gloomy anticipations as to the fate +of their deceased brethren, on the part of these poor Grebos. As a badge +of mourning, they wear cloth of dark blue, instead of gayer colors. Dark +blue is universally, along the coast, the hue indicative of mourning. + +The Fishmen, at Cape Palmas, as well as at most other places on the coast, +refuse to sell fish to be eaten on board of vessels, believing that the +remains of the dead fish will frighten away the living ones. + +21.--Sailed at 5 o'clock A.M., with a good wind, and anchored at Sinoe at +6 P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Settlement of Sinoe--Account of a murder by the natives--Arrival at +Monrovia--Appearance of the town--Temperance--Law-suits and +Pleadings--Expedition up the St. Paul's river--Remarks on the cultivation +of sugar--Prospects of the coffee-culture in Liberia--Desultory +observations on agriculture. + + +_October_ 22.--At Sinoe. Mr. Morris, the principal man of the settlement, +came on board, in order to take passage with us to Monrovia. He informs us +that there are but seventy-two colonists here at present, but that nearly +a hundred are daily expected. Such an accession of strength is much needed +for the natives in the vicinity are powerful, and not very friendly, and +the colony is too weak to chastise them. Our appearance has caused them +some alarm. This is the place where the mate of an American vessel was +harpooned, some months since, by the Fishmen. We shall hold a palaver +about it, when the Commodore joins us. + +We left Sinoe at 7 o'clock, P.M. + +23. Mr. Morris has been narrating the circumstances of the murder of the +American mate, at Sinoe, in reference to which we are to "set a palaver." +"Palaver," by-the-by, is probably a corruption of the Portuguese word, +"Palabra." As used by the natives, it has many significations, among which +is that of an open quarrel. To "set a palaver," is to bring it to a final +issue, either by talking or fighting. + +The story of the murder is as follows. A Fishman agreed to go down the +coast with Captain Burke, who paid him his wages in advance; on receiving +which, the fellow jumped overboard, and escaped. The captain then refused +to pay the sums due to two members of the same tribe, unless the first +should refund the money. Finding the threat insufficient, he endeavored to +entice these two natives on board his vessel, by promises of payment, but +ineffectually. Meanwhile, the mate going ashore with a colonist, his boat +was detained by the natives, during the night, but given up the next +morning, at the intercession of the inhabitants. The mate returned on +board, in a violent rage, and sent a sailor to catch a Fishman, on whom to +take vengeance. But the man caught a Tartar, and was himself taken ashore +as prisoner. The mate and cook then went out in a boat, and were attacked +by a war-canoe, the men in which harpooned the cook, and stripping the +mate naked, threw him overboard. They beat the poor fellow off, as he +attempted to seize hold of the canoe, and, after torturing him for some +time, at length harpooned him in the back. Captain Burke, having but one +man and two passengers left, made sail, and got away as fast as possible. + +23.--Arrived at Monrovia, where we find the Porpoise, with six native +prisoners on board, who were taken at Berebee, as being concerned in the +murder of Captain Farwell and his crew, two years ago. To accomplish their +capture, the Porpoise was disguised as a barque, with only four or five +men visible on deck, and these in Scotch caps and red shirts, so as to +resemble the crew of a merchant-vessel. The first canoe approached, and +Prince Jumbo stepped boldly up the brig's side, but started back into his +boat, the moment that he saw the guns and martial equipment on deck. The +Kroomen of the Porpoise, however, jumped into the water and upset the +canoe, making prisoners of the four natives whom it contained. Six or +eight miles further along the coast, the brig being under sail, another +canoe came off with two natives, who were likewise secured. The Kroomen +begged to be allowed to kill the prisoners, as they were of a hostile +tribe. + +28.--Leaving the ship in one of our boats, pulled by Kroomen, we crossed +the bar at the mouth of the Mesurado, and in ten minutes afterwards, were +alongside of the colonial wharf. Half-a-dozen young natives and colonists +issued from a small house to watch our landing; but their curiosity was +less intrusive and annoying, than would have been that of the same number +of New-York boys, at the landing of a foreign man-of-war's boat. On our +part, we looked around us with the interest which even common-place +objects possess for those, whose daily spectacle is nothing more varied +than the sea and sky. Even the most ordinary shore-scenery becomes +captivating, after a week or two on shipboard. Two colonists were sawing +plank in the shade of the large stone store-house of the colony. Ascending +the hill, we passed the printing-office of the Liberia Herald, where two +workmen were printing the colonial laws. The publication of the newspaper +had been suspended for nearly three months, to enable them to accomplish +work of more pressing importance. Proceeding onward, we came to the +Governor's house, and were received with that gentleman's usual courtesy. +The house is well furnished, and arranged for a hot climate; it is +situated near the highest point of the principal street, and commands from +its piazza a view of most of the edifices in Monrovia town. + +The fort is on the highest ground in the village, one hundred feet above +the sea; it is of stone, triangular in shape, and has a good deal the +appearance of an American pound for cattle, but is substantial, and +adequate for its intended purposes. From this point, the street descends +in both directions. About fifty houses are in view. First, the Government +House, opposite to which stand the neat dwellings of Judge Benedict and +Doctor Day. Further on, you perceive the largest house in the village, +erected by Rev. Mr. Williams, of the Methodist mission. On the right is a +one-story brick house, and two or three wooden ones. A large stone +edifice, intended for a Court-House and Legislative Hall, has recently +been completed. The street itself is wide enough for a spacious pasture, +and affords abundance of luxuriant grass, through which run two or three +well-trodden foot-paths. Apart from the village, on the Cape, we discerned +the light-house, the base of which is about two hundred feet above the +sea. + +We dined to-day at the New Hotel. The dinner was ill-cooked (an +unpardonable fault at Monrovia, where good cooks, formerly in the service +of our southern planters, might be supposed to abound), and not served up +in proper style. But there was abundance to eat and drink. Though the +keeper of the house is a clergyman and a temperance-man, ale, porter, +wine, and cherry-brandy, are to be had at fair prices. Three years ago, a +tavern was kept here in Monrovia by a Mr. Cooper, whose handbill set +forth, that "nothing was more repugnant to his feelings than to sell +ardent spirits"--but added--"if gentlemen _will_ have them, the following +is the price." Of course, after such a salvo, Mr. Cooper pocketed the +profits of his liquor-trade with a quiet conscience. He used to tell me +that a little brandy was good for the "suggestion;" but I fear that he +made, in his own person, too large a demand upon its suggestive +properties; for his house is now untenanted and ruinous, and he himself +has carried his tender conscience to another settlement. + +30.--Went ashore in the second cutter. The Kroomen managed her so +bunglingly, that, on striking the beach, she swung broadside to the sea. +In this position, a wave rolled into her, half-filled the boat, and +drenched us from head to foot. Apprehending that she would roll over upon +us, and break our limbs or backs, we jumped into the water, and waded +ashore. + +While in the village, I visited the Court House, to hear the trial of a +cause involving an amount of eight hundred dollars. Governor Roberts acted +as judge, and displayed a great deal of dignity in presiding, and much +wisdom and good sense in his decision. This is the highest court of the +Colony. There are no regularly educated lawyers in Liberia, devoting +themselves exclusively to the profession; but the pleading seems to be +done principally by the medical faculty. Two Doctors were of counsel in +the case alluded to, and talked of Coke, Blackstone, and Kent, as +learnedly as if it had been the business of their lives to unravel legal +mysteries. The pleadings were simple, and the arguments brief, for the +judge kept them strictly to the point. An action for slander was +afterwards tried, in which the damages were laid at one hundred dollars. +One of the medico-jurisconsults opened the cause with an appeal to the +feelings, and wrought his own sensibilities to such a pitch as to declare, +that, though his client asked only for one hundred dollars, he considered +the jury bound in conscience to give him two. The Doctor afterwards told +me that he had walked eighty miles to act as counsel in this court. A +tailor argued stoutly for the defendant, but with little success; his +client was fined twenty dollars. + +On our return, a companion and myself took passage for the ship in a +native canoe. These little vessels are scooped out of a log, and are of +even less size and capacity than the birch-canoes of our Indians, and so +light that two men, using each a single hand, may easily carry them from +place to place. Our weight caused the frail bark to sit so deep in the +water, that, before reaching the ship, we underwent another drenching. +Three changes of linen in one day are altogether too expensive and +troublesome. + +_November_ 1.--Went up the St. Paul's river on a pleasure excursion, with +the Governor, and several men of lesser note. We touched at the public +farm, and found only a single man in charge. The sugar-cane was small in +size, was ill-weeded, and, to my eye, did not appear flourishing. The land +is apparently good and suitable, but labor is deficient, and my +impressions were not favorable in regard to the manner of cultivation. The +mill was exposed to the atmosphere, and the kettles were full of foul +water. We landed likewise at New Georgia, a settlement of recaptured +Africans. There was here a pretty good appearance, both of people and +farms. We called also at Caldwell, a rich tract of level land, of which a +space of about two miles is cultivated by comfortable and happy-looking +colonists. A very pleasant dinner was furnished by the Governor at what +was once a great slave station, and the proprietor of which is still +hostile to the colonists, and to both English and Americans, for breaking +up the trade. We saw several alligators. One of them, about three feet in +length, lay on a log, with his mouth wide open, catching flies. + +From the whole course of my observation, I cannot but feel satisfied that +the colonists are better off here than in America. They are more +independent, as healthy, and much happier. Agriculture will doubtless be +their chief employment, but, for years to come, the cultivation of sugar +cane cannot be carried to any considerable extent. There are many calls +upon the resources of the Colonization Society and the inhabitants, more +pressing, and which promise a readier and greater return. A large capital +should be invested in the business, in order to render it profitable. The +want of a steam-mill, to grind the cane, has been severely felt. Ignorance +of the most appropriate soil, and of the most productive kind of cane, and +the best methods of planting and grinding it, have likewise contributed to +retard the cultivation of sugar. But the grand difficulty is the want of a +ready capital, and the high price of labor. The present wages of labor are +from sixty to seventy-five cents per day. The natives refuse to work among +the canes, on account of the prickly nature of the leaves, and the +irritating property of a gum that exudes from them. Yet it may be doubted +whether the colony will ever make sugar to any important extent, unless +some method be found to apply native labor to that purpose. Private +enterprise is no more successful than the public efforts. A plantation has +been commenced at Millsburg, and prosecuted with great diligence, but with +no auspicious results. Sugar has been made, indeed, but at a cost of three +times as much, per pound, as would have purchased it. + +Hitherto, the plantations of Coffee trees have not succeeded well. Coffee, +it is true, is sometimes exported from Liberia; and doubtless the friends +of Colonization drink it with great gusto, as an earnest of the progress +of their philanthropic work. The cup, however, will be less grateful to +their taste, when they learn that nearly all this coffee is procured at +the islands of St. Thomas and St. Prince's, in the Bight of Benin, and +entered as the produce of Liberia, _ad captandum_. The same game has been +played in England, by entering their coffee as from Sierra Leone or +Gambia, to entitle it to the benefit of the lower duties on colonial +produce. But the English custom-house officers are now aware of the +deception, and the business is abandoned. + +The mode of forming a coffee-plantation is simply to go into the woods +(where the tree abounds), select the wild coffee tree, and transport it +into the prepared field. The indigenous coffee-tree of Liberia produces +fruit of a superior quality, larger and finer flavored, than that of the +West Indies. But the cultivation, I think, is conducted upon wrong +principles. Instead of having large plantations, with no other vegetables +on the land, let every man intermingle a few coffee trees with the corn, +cassada, and other vegetables in his garden or fields. These few trees, +having the benefit of the hoeing and manuring bestowed on the other crops, +will produce much more abundantly and with less trouble, than by separate +culture. In fact, after setting out the trees, there will be no trouble, +except that of gathering and preparing the berries for market. In this +burning climate, the shade afforded by the tree will be beneficial to most +vegetables. + +The want of success, hitherto, in the cultivation of coffee, has been +attributed by some to the custom of transplanting the trees from the +forest, instead of raising them from seed. The colonial Secretary is now +making trial of the latter method. He has several thousand young trees in +his nursery, and will soon be able to test the comparative efficiency of +the different systems. Not improbably, the cultivation of seedlings may be +found preferable to that of transplanted trees; but, in my opinion, the +great obstacle to success has been the deficiency of care and proper +manuring. In order to bear well, trees require to have the ground +enriched, and kept free from weeds. Failing this, the plant often dies, +and never flourishes so well as in its native woods. The inhabitants of +Liberia have not the means of bestowing the requisite care upon the +cultivation of coffee, on an extended scale; and I say boldly, that large +plantations, in that region, cannot compete with those of Brazil and the +West Indies, where the plantations are well-stocked, and cultivated by +slave-labor. Free labor in Africa will not soon be so cheap as that of +slaves in other countries. Even in Cuba, the planters can barely feed +themselves and their slaves, by the culture of coffee. How, then, can it +be made profitable in Liberia, where labor commands so high a price, and +is often impossible to be procured? + +As incidental, however, to other branches of agriculture, coffee may be +advantageously raised. The best trees are those seen in gardens, where, +from ten or twelve, more berries are gathered than from hundreds in a +plantation. A single tree, in the garden of Colonel Hicks, is said to have +produced sixteen pounds at a gathering; and I have seen several very fine +trees in similar situations. Fifty or a hundred trees, well selected, and +properly distributed through the fields, would yield several hundred +pounds of coffee, which, being gathered and dried by the women and +children, would be gratuitous as regards the cost of labor. Thus, the +coffee culture, in Liberia, must be considered far more eligible than that +of sugar; inasmuch as the latter requires a large capital and extensive +operations, while the former succeeds best on a very moderate scale. + +Judge Benedict has probably bestowed more attention on this business, than +any other person in Liberia. He is a man of excellent sense and +information, and has the means to carry out his views, as well as the +patriotism to exert himself for the advantage of the commonwealth. With +these qualifications, he has employed five or six years in the experiment +of raising coffee, and thus far, with little success, although his +plantation comprises some thousands of growing trees. In the spring of +1841, he made presents, to myself and other officers, of genuine Liberian +coffee, in small native bags, containing two or three pounds each. The +Judge is still giving away little bags of the same kind; but I do not yet +learn that his crop is more than sufficient for his own use, and for +distribution as specimens; certainly, it is not so abundant as to render +the sale of it an object. As for the plantation itself, I must confess +that it appeared to me more flourishing three years ago, than at present. +Most of the trees, on the spot originally planted, are dead, and the rest +in a sickly condition; while the most thriving trees are to be seen on the +lower and damper land adjacent, which, at my former visit, was covered +with a dense forest. Beyond a doubt, the coffee tree is as well adapted to +this soil and climate as to those of Cuba, and produces a larger and +better flavored berry; but I repeat my opinion, that the Liberian, hiring +laborers at sixty cents a day, cannot compete with the West Indian, who +has his hundreds of slaves already paid for, and his trees growing in +well-weeded land. The mere feeding, I might almost say, of a dozen +laborers in Liberia, will cost more than all the coffee they raise would +re-imburse, at the Cuba prices. + +The cultivation of rice is universal in Africa. The natives never neglect +it, for fear of famine. For an upland crop, the rice-lands are turned over +and planted in March and April. In September and October, the rice is +reaped, beaten out, and cleaned for market or storing. The lowland crop, +on the contrary, is planted in September, October, and November, in marshy +lands, and harvested in March and April. Lands will not produce two +successive crops without manuring and ploughing. About two bushels of seed +are sown to the acre; and the crop, on the acre of upland, is about thirty +bushels, and from forty to forty-five bushels on the lowlands. The rice is +transported to market on the backs of natives, packed in bundles of about +three feet long and nine inches in diameter. The wrappers are made of +large leaves, bound together by cords of bark. The load is sustained by +shoulder-straps, and by a band, passing round the forehead of the bearer. + +Cassada is a kind of yam, and sends up a tall stalk, with light green +leaves. It has a long root, looking like a piece of wood with the brown +bark on; the interior is white and mealy, rather insipid, but nutritious, +and invaluable as an article of food. It is raised from the seed, root, or +stem; the latter being considered preferable. Its yield is very great. In +six months, it is fit to dig, and may be preserved fifteen or eighteen +months in the ground, but ceases to be eatable in three or four days after +being dug. Tapioca is manufactured from this root. + +Indian corn is planted in May and harvested in September; or, if planted +in July, it ripens in November and December. Sweet potatoes constitute one +of the main reliances of the colonists; they are raised from seeds, roots +or vines, but most successfully from the latter. The season of planting is +in May, or June, and the crop ripens four months later. Plantains and +bananas are a valuable product; they are propagated from suckers, which +yield a first crop in about a year. The top is cut down, and new stalks +spring from the root. Ground nuts are the same article peddled by the old +women at our street-corners, under the name of pea-nuts; so called from +the close resemblance of the bush to the tops of the sweet pea. This nut +is used in England for making oil. The Cocoa is a bulbous root of the size +of a tea-cup, and has some similarity to the artichoke. Pine-apples, +small, but finely flavored, grow wild in the woods, and are abundant in +their season. + +In concluding these very imperfect and miscellaneous observations on the +agriculture and products of Liberia, it may be remarked that the farmer's +life and modes of labor are different from those of the same class, in +other countries; inasmuch as there is here no spring, autumn, or winter. +The year is a perpetual summer; therein, if in nothing else, resembling +the climate of the original Paradise, to which men of all colors look back +as the birth-place of their species. The culture of the soil appears to be +emphatically the proper occupation of the Liberians. Many persons have +anticipated making money more easily by trade; but, being unaccustomed to +commercial pursuits, and possessing but little capital, by far the greater +number soon find themselves bankrupt, and burthened with debt. With these +evidences of the inequality, on their part, of competition with vessels +trading on the coast, and with the established traders of the colony, the +inhabitants are now turning their attention more exclusively to +agriculture. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +High character of Governor Roberts--Suspected Slaver--Dinner on +shore--Facts and remarks relative to the slave trade--British +philanthropy--Original cost of a slave--Anchor at Sinoe--Peculiarities and +distinctive characteristics of the Fishmen and Bushmen--The King of +Appollonia--Religion and morality among the natives--Influence of the +women. + + +_November_ 3.--Ashore, botanizing. In this region, where all the plants +are strange, and many of them beautiful, it is easy work to form a +collection. With a Kroo-boy to carry my book, I cut leaves and flowers as +they came to hand. + +4.--Governor Roberts, General Lewis, and Doctor Day, dined with us in the +ward-room. The Governor is certainly no ordinary person. In every +situation, as judge, ruler, and private gentleman, he sustains himself +creditably, and is always unexceptionable. His deportment is dignified, +quiet, and sensible. He has been tried in war as well as in peace, has +seen a good share of fighting, and has invariably been cool, brave, and +successful. He is a native of Virginia, and came from thence in 1828. The +friends of Colonization can hardly adduce a stronger argument in favor of +their enterprise, than that it has redeemed such a man as Governor Roberts +from servitude, and afforded him the opportunity (which was all he needed) +of displaying his high natural gifts, and applying them to the benefit of +his race. + +To-night we had a Kroo-dance on the forecastle. It was an uncouth and +peculiar spectacle, characterized by singing, stamping, and clapping of +hands, with a great display of agility. National dances might be taken as +no bad standard of the comparative civilisation of different countries. A +gracefully quiet dance is the latest flower of high refinement. + +5.--Two vessels descried standing in; and bets were five to one that they +were the Macedonian and Decatur. It proved otherwise; they were a British +gun-brig and French merchant-schooner. + +8.--It has been raining for three days, almost incessantly. No Macedonian +yet. + +10.--Dined on shore. Our captain and five officers, the master and surgeon +of an English merchantman, and the captain of the French schooner, were of +the party. It was a pleasant dinner. The conversation turned principally +upon the trade and customs of the coast. The slave-trade was freely +discussed; and the subject had a peculiar interest, under the +circumstances, because this identical Frenchman, at table with us, is +suspected to have some connection with it. It is merely a surmise. The +French captain speaks a little English; but, after dinner, as a matter of +courtesy, we all adopted his native language. Our friend Colonel Hicks, as +usual, did most of the talking; he is as shrewd, agreeable, and +instructive a companion, as may often be met with in any society. + +The dinner-conversation, above alluded to, suggests some remarks in +reference to the slave-trade. There is great discrepancy in the various +estimates as to the number of slaves annually exported from Africa. Some +authorities rate it as high as half a million. Captain Bosanquet, R.N., +estimates that fifteen thousand are annually sent to the West Indies, and +a greater number to Arabia, all of which are from Portuguese settlements. +He affirms that the trade has increased very much between the years 1832 +and 1839, and particularly in the latter part of that period; an effect +naturally consequent upon the great number of captures made by the English +cruisers. A trader, for instance, contracting to introduce a given number +of slaves into Cuba, must purchase more on the coast to make up for those +lost by capture. Captain Brodhead, another British officer, says that the +number of slaves carried off is grossly exaggerated, and that the English +papers told of thousands being shipped from a port, where he lay at anchor +during the period indicated, and for fifty days before and afterwards; in +all which time, not a slave vessel came in sight. Doctor Madden states, +that, during his residence in Cuba, the number of slaves annually imported +was twenty-five thousand. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton calls it one hundred +and fifteen thousand! Her Majesty's Commissioners say that the number is +as well known as any other statistical point, and that it does not exceed +fifteen thousand. The slave-trade rose to a great height in 1836, owing +principally to the high price of colonial produce. I was in Cuba in that +year, and witnessed the great activity that prevailed in buying negroes, +and forming plantations, especially those of sugar. The prices have since +fallen, and the slave-trade decreased, on the plain principle of political +economy, that the demand regulates the supply. + +The English cruisers are doubtless very active in the pursuit of vessels +engaged in this traffic. The approbation of government and the public (to +say nothing of L5 head-money for every slave recaptured, and the increased +chance of promotion to vacancies caused by death) is a strong inducement +to vigilance. But, however benevolent may be the motives that influence +the action of Great Britain, in reference to the slave-trade, there is the +grossest cruelty and injustice in carrying out her views. Attempts are now +being made to transport the rescued slaves in great numbers to the British +West India islands, at the expense of government. It is boldly +recommended, by men of high standing in England, to carry them all thither +at once. The effect of such a measure, gloss it over as you may, would be +to increase the black labor of the British islands, by just so much as is +deducted from the number of slaves, intended for the Spanish or Brazilian +possessions. "The sure cure for the slave-trade" says Mr. Laird, "is in +our own hands. It lies in producing cheaper commodities by free labor, in +our own colonies." And, to accomplish this desirable end, England will +seize upon the liberated Africans and land them in her West India islands, +with the alternative of adding their toil to the amount of her colonial +labor, or of perishing by starvation. How much better will their condition +be, as apprentices in Trinidad or Jamaica, than as slaves in Cuba? +Infinitely more wretched! English philanthropy cuts a very suspicious +figure, when, not content with neglecting the welfare of those whom she +undertakes to protect, she thus attempts to made them subservient to +national aggrandizement. The fate of the rescued slaves is scarcely better +than that of the crews of the captured slave-vessels. The latter are +landed on the nearest point of the African coast, where death by +starvation or fever almost certainly awaits them. + +I am desirous to put the best construction possible on the conduct as well +of nations as of individuals, and never to entertain that cold scepticism +which explains away all generosity and philanthropy on motives of selfish +policy. But it is difficult to give unlimited faith to the ardent and +disinterested desire professed by England, to put a period to the +slave-trade. If sincere, why does she not, as she readily might, induce +Spain, Portugal, and Brazil, to declare the traffic piratical? And again, +why is not her own strength so directed as to give the trade a death-blow +at once? There are but two places between Sierra Leone and Accra, a +distance of one thousand miles, whence slaves are exported. One is +Gallinas; the other New Sesters. The English keep a cruiser off each of +these rivers. Slavers run in, take their cargoes of human flesh and blood, +and push off. If the cruiser can capture the vessels, the captors receive +L5 per head for the slaves on board, and the government has more +"emigrants" for its West India possessions. Now, were the cruisers to +anchor at the mouths of these two rivers, the slavers would be prevented +from putting to sea with their cargoes, and the trade at those places be +inevitably stopped. But, in this case, where would be the head-money and +the emigrants? + +It has been asserted that the colonists of Liberia favor the slave-trade. +This is not true. The only places where the traffic is carried on, north +of the line, are in the neighborhood of the most powerful English +settlements on the whole coast; while even British authority does not +pretend that the vicinity of the American colonies is polluted by it. +Individuals among the colonists, unprincipled men, may, in a very few +instances, from love of gain, have given assistance to slavers, by +supplying goods or provisions at high prices. But this must have been done +secretly, or the law would have taken hold of them. Slavers, no doubt, +have often watered at Monrovia, but never when their character was known. +On the other hand, the slave stations at St. Paul's river, at Bassa, and +at Junk, have undeniably been broken up by the presence of the colonists. +Even if destitute of sympathy for fellow-men of their own race and hue, +and regardless of their deep stake in the preservation of their character, +the evident fact is, that self-interest would prompt the inhabitants of +Liberia to oppose the slave-trade in their vicinity. Wherever the slaver +comes, he purchases large quantities of rice at extravagant rates, thus +curtailing the supply to the colonist, and enhancing the price. Moreover, +the natives, always preferring the excitement of war to the labors of +peace, neglect the culture of the earth, and have no camwood nor palm-oil +to offer to the honest trader, who consequently finds neither buyers nor +sellers among them. + +The truth is, the slave-traders can dispense with assistance from the +Liberian colonists. They procure goods, and everything necessary to their +trade, at Sierra Leone, or from any English or American vessel on the +coast. If the merchantmen find a good market for their cargoes, they are +satisfied, whatever be the character of their customers. This is well +understood and openly avowed here. The English have no right to taunt the +Americans, nor to claim higher integrity on their own part. They lend +precisely the same indirect aid to the traffic that the Americans do, and +furnish everything except vessels, which likewise they would supply, if +they could build them. It is the policy of the English ship-masters on the +coast to represent the Americans as engaged in the slave-trade; for if, by +such accusations, they can induce British or American men-of-war to detain +and examine the fair trader, they thus rid themselves of troublesome +rivals. + +The natives are generally favorable to the slave-trade. It brings them +many comforts and luxuries, which the legitimate trade does not supply. +Their argument is, that "if a man goes into the Bush and buys camwood, he +must pay another to bring it to the beach. But if he buy a slave, this +latter commodity will not only walk, but bring a load of camwood on his +back." All slaves exported are Bushmen, many of whom are brought from two +or three hundred miles in the interior. The Fishmen and Kroomen are the +agents between the slave-traders and the interior tribes. They will not +permit the latter to become acquainted with the white men, lest their own +agency and its profits should cease. A slave, once sold, seldom returns to +his home. + +If transported to a foreign country, his case is of course hopeless; and +even if recaptured on the coast, his return is almost impossible. His +home, probably, is far distant from the sea. It can only be reached by +traversing the territories of four or five nations, any one of whom would +seize the hapless stranger, and either consign him to slavery among +themselves, or send him again to a market on the coast. Hence, those +recaptured by the English cruisers are either settled at Sierra Leone, or +transported to some other of the colonies of Great Britain. + +The price paid to the native agents for a full grown male slave, is about +one musket, twelve pieces of romauls, one cutlass, a demijohn of rum, a +bar of iron, a keg of powder, and ten bars of leaf-tobacco, the whole +amounting to the value of thirty to thirty-five dollars. A female is sold +for about a quarter less; and boys of twelve or thirteen command only a +musket and two pieces of romauls. Slave-vessels go from Havana with +nothing but dollars and doubloons. Other vessels go out with the above +species of goods, and all others requisite for the trade. The slaver buys +the goods on the coast, pays for them with specie, and lands them in +payment for the slaves, money being but little used in traffic with the +natives. + +13.--The Decatur arrived this evening, after a passage of thirty days from +Porto Praya. She left the Macedonian on the way, the winds being light, +the current adverse, and the frigate sailing very badly. + +17.--The Macedonian arrived. + +Coming off from town, to-day, I took a canoe with a couple of Kroomen, who +paddled down the river, till we arrived at a narrow part of the +promontory. On touching the shallows, one of the Kroomen took me on his +back to the dry land. The two then picked up the canoe, carried her across +the cape, perhaps a hundred yards, and launched her, with myself on board, +through the heavy surf. + +21.--Sailed at daylight for Sinoe, leaving the Macedonian and Decatur, an +American ship and barque, an English brig, and two Hamburg vessels, at +anchor. + +25.--Anchored at Sinoe at noon. + +26.--Ashore. Visited Fishtown, a well-built native village, containing +probably four hundred inhabitants. It is within about two hundred yards of +the colonial dwellings. The people are said to have committed many +depredations upon the colonists; and there is an evident intention of +driving them off. This is the tribe with which we are to hold a palaver. + +There are two grand divisions of native Africans on the Western Coast, the +Fishmen and the Bushmen; the latter being inhabitants of the interior; and +the former comprising all the tribes along the sea-shore, who gain a +subsistence by fishing, trading between the Bushmen and foreign vessels, +and laboring on shipboard. The Kroomen, so often mentioned, are in some +respects a distinct and separate people; although a large proportion, +probably nine-tenths of those bearing that name, are identical with the +Fishmen. The latter are generally treacherous and deceitful; the Kroomen +are much more honest, but still are not to be trusted without reserve and +discrimination. + +The government of these people, and of the natives generally, is nominally +monarchical, but democratic in substance. The regal office appears to be +hereditary in a family, but not to descend according to our ideas of +lineal succession. The power of the king is greatly circumscribed by the +privilege, which every individual in the tribe possesses, of calling a +palaver. If a man deems himself injured, he demands a full discussion of +his rights or wrongs, in presence of the rulers and the tribe. The +head-men sit in judgment, and substantial justice is generally done. There +are persons, celebrated for their power and copiousness of talking, who +appear as counsel in behalf of the respective parties. The more +distinguished of these advocates are sometimes sent for, from a distance +of two or three hundred miles, to speak at a palaver; and, in such cases, +they leave all other employment, and hurry to the scene of action. + +It would appear that, on other parts of the coast, or farther in the +interior, the native kings possess more power and assume greater state, +than those who have come under my notice. The King of Appollonia, +adjoining Axim Territory, is said to be very rich and powerful. If the +report of his nearest civilized neighbor, the Governor of Axim, is to be +credited, this potentate's house is furnished most sumptuously in the +European style. Gold cups, pitchers, and plates, are used at his table, +with furniture of corresponding magnificence in all the departments of his +household. He possesses vast treasures in bullion and gold dust. The +Governor of Dixcove informed me, that, about four years ago, he +accompanied an English expedition against Appollonia, which is still +claimed by England, although their fort there has been abandoned. On their +approach, the King fled, and left them masters of the place. Some of the +English soldiers opened the sepulchre of the King last deceased, and took +away an unknown amount of gold. Afterwards, by order of the Governor, the +remainder was taken from the grave, amounting to several hundred dollars. +Together with the treasure, numerous articles had been buried, such as a +knife, plate, and cup, swords, guns, cloth, goods of various kinds, and, +in short, every thing that the dead King had required while alive. There +were also four skeletons, two of each sex, buried beneath the royal +coffin. It is said that sixty victims were sacrificed on occasion of the +funeral, of whom only the most distinguished were allowed, even in death, +to approach their master so nearly, and act as his immediate attendants in +the world of spirits. The splendor of an African funeral, on the Gold +Coast, is unparalleled. It is customary for persons of wealth to smear the +corpses of their friends with oil, and then to powder them with gold-dust +from head to foot, so as to produce the appearance of bronzed or golden +statues. + +The present King of Appollonia deposited six hundred ounces of gold (about +ten thousand dollars) with the Governor of Cape Coast Castle, as security +for his good behavior. His cellar is well supplied with rare wines, which +he offers liberally to strangers who land at his residence. All these +circumstances, and this barbaric magnificence, indicate a far different +condition from that of the native Kings in the vicinity of Liberia, who +live simply, like their subjects, on vegetables and fish, and one of whom +was proud to array himself in a cast-off garment of my own. Their wealth +consists not in gold, plate, or bullion, but in crockery and earthenware. +Not only the Kings, but all the rich natives, accumulate articles of this +kind, until their dwellings resemble warehouses of crockery. Perhaps fifty +white wash-bowls, with as many pitchers, mugs, and plates, may be seen +around the room; and when these utensils become so numerous as to excite +the envy of the tribe, the owners are said to bury them in the earth. In +the house of King Glass (so named, I presume, from the transparency of his +character), I noticed the first indications of a taste for the Fine Arts. +Seventy coarse colored engravings, glazed and framed, were suspended on +the wall; and, what was most curious, nearly all of them were copies of +the same print, a portrait of King William the Fourth. + +It is to be desired that some missionary should give an account of the +degree and kind of natural religion among the native tribes. Their belief +in the efficacy of sassy-wood to discover guilt or innocence, indicates a +faith in an invisible Equity. Some of them, however, select the most +ridiculous of animals, the monkey, as their visible symbol of the Deity; +or, as appears more probable, they stand in spiritual awe of him, from an +idea that the souls of the dead are again embodied in this shape. Under +this impression, they pay a kind of worship to the monkey, and never kill +him near a burial-place; and though, in other situations, they kill and +eat him, they endeavor to propitiate his favor by respectful language, and +the use of charms. Other natives, in the neighborhood of Gaboon, worship +the shark, and throw slaves to him to be devoured. + +On the whole, their morality is superior to their religion--at least, as +between members of the same tribe--although they scarcely seem to +acknowledge moral obligations in respect to strangers. Their landmarks, +for instance, are held sacred among the individuals of a tribe. A father +takes his son, and points out the "stake and stones" which mark the +boundary between him and his neighbor. There needs no other registry. Land +passes from sire to son, and is sold and bought with as undisputed and +secure a title as all our deeds and formalities can establish. But, +between different tribes, wars frequently arise on disputed boundary +questions, and in consequence of encroachments made by either party. +"Land-palavers" and "Women-palavers" are the great causes of war. Veracity +seems to be the virtue most indiscriminately practised, as well towards +the stranger as the brother. The natives are cautious as to the accuracy +of the stories which they promulgate, and seldom make a stronger +asseveration than "I tink he be true!" Yet their consciences do not shrink +from the use of falsehood and artifice, where these appear expedient. + +The natives are not insensible to the advantages of education. They are +fond of having their children in the families of colonists, where they +learn English, and the manners of civilized life, and get plenty to eat. +Probably the parents hope, in this way, to endow their offspring with some +of the advantages which they suppose the white man to possess over the +colored race. So sensible are they of their own inferiority, that if a +person looks sternly in the face of a native, when about to be attacked by +him, and calls out to him loudly, the chances are ten to one that the +native runs away. This effect is analogous to that which the eye of man is +said to exert on the fiercest of savage beasts. The same involuntary and +sad acknowledgment of a lower order of being appears in their whole +intercourse with the whites. Yet such self-abasement is scarcely just; for +the slave-traders, who constitute the specimens of civilized man with whom +the natives have hitherto been most familiar, are by no means on a par +with themselves, in a moral point of view. It is a pity to see such awful +homage rendered to the mere intellect, apart from truth and goodness. + +It is a redeeming trait of the native character, so far as it goes, that +women are not wholly without influence in the public councils. If, when a +tribe is debating the expediency of going to war, the women come beneath +the council-tree, and represent the evils that will result, their opinion +will have great weight, and may probably turn the scale in favor of peace. +On the other hand, if the women express a wish that they were men, in +order that they might go to war, the warriors declare for it at once. It +is to be feared, that there is an innate fierceness even in the gentler +sex, which makes them as likely to give their voices for war as for peace. +It is a feminine office and privilege, on the African coast, to torture +prisoners taken in war, by sticking thorns in their flesh, and in various +other modes, before they are put to death. The unfortunate Captain Farwell +underwent three hours of torture, at the hands of the women and children. +So, likewise, did the mate of Captain Burke's vessel, at Sinoe. + +The natives are very cruel in their fights, and spare neither age nor sex; +they kill the women and female children, lest they should be the mothers +of future warriors, and the boys, lest they should fight hereafter. If +they take prisoners, it is either to torture them to death, or to sell +them as slaves. The Fishmen have often evinced courage and obstinacy in +war, as was the case in their assaults upon the Liberian settlers, in the +heroic age of the colony, when Ashman and his associates displayed such +warlike ability in defeating them. The Bushmen are as cruel as the former, +but appear to be more cowardly. I have heard the Rev. Mr. Brown, himself +an actor in the scene, relate the story of the fight at Heddington, in +which three colonists, assisted by two women, were attacked at daybreak by +five hundred natives, many of whom were armed with muskets. Zion Harris +and Mr. Demery were the marksmen, while the clergyman assumed the duty of +loading the guns. The natives rushed onward in so dense a crowd, that +almost every bullet and buckshot of the defenders hit its man. The +besieged had but six muskets, one hundred cartridges, and a few charges of +powder. Their external fortifications consisted only of a slight +picket-fence, which might have been thrown down in an instant. But, +fortunately, when there were but three charges of powder left in the +house, a shot killed Gotorap, the chief of the assailants, at whose fall +the whole army fled in dismay. One of the trophies of their defeat was the +kettle which they had brought for the purpose of cooking the missionaries, +and holding a cannibal feast. The battle-field is poetically termed the +bed of honor: but the bravest man might be excused for shrinking from a +burial in his enemy's stomach! Poetry can make nothing of such a fate. + +Rude and wretched as is the condition of the natives, it has been affirmed +that many of the Liberian colonists have mingled with them, and preferred +their savage mode of life to the habits of civilisation. Only one instance +of the kind has come to my personal knowledge. We had on board, for two or +three months, a party of Kroomen, among whom was one, dressed like the +rest, but speaking better English. Being questioned, he said that he had +learned English on board of merchant-vessels, where he had been employed +for several years. We took this young man into the ward-room, where he +worked for three months, associating chiefly with the Kroomen on deck, +speaking their language, and perfectly resembling them in his appearance +and general habits. About the time of discharging him, we discovered that +he was a native of North Carolina, had resided many years in Liberia, but, +being idle and vicious, had finally given up the civilized for the savage +state. His real name was Elijah Park; his assumed one, William Henry. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Palaver at Sinoe--Ejectment of a Horde of Fishmen--Palaver at Settra +Kroo--Mrs. Sawyer--Objections to the Marriage of Missionaries--A +Centipede--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Rescue of the Sassy Wood-Drinker +Hostilities between the Natives and Colonists. + + + _November_ 27.--At Sinoe. The settlement here is in a poor condition. +The inhabitants are apparently more ignorant and lazy than the colonists +on any other part of the coast. Yet they have a beautiful and fertile +situation. + +28.--The Macedonian and Decatur arrived. Governor Roberts, and other +persons of authority and distinction among the colonists, were passengers, +in order to be present at the intended palaver. + +29.--At 9 A.M., thirteen boats left the different ships, armed, and having +about seventy-five marines on board, besides the sailors. Entering the +river, with flags flying and muskets glittering, the boats lay on their +oars until all were in a line, and then pulled at once for the beach, as +if about to charge a hostile battery. The manoeuvre was handsomely +executed, and seemed to give great satisfaction to some thirty colonists +and fifty naked natives, who were assembled on the beach. The officers and +marines were landed, and formed in line, under the direction of Lieutenant +Rich. The music then struck up, while the Commodore and Governor Roberts +slept ashore, and the whole detachment marched to the palaver-house, +which, on this occasion, was the Methodist Church. + +The Commodore seated himself behind a small table, which was covered with +a napkin. The officers, with Governor Roberts and Doctor Day, occupied +seats on his right, and the native chiefs, as they dropped in, found +places on the left. If the latter fell short of us in outward pomp and +martial array, they had certainly the advantage of rank, there being about +twenty kings and headmen of the tribes among them. Governor Roberts opened +the palaver in the Commodore's name, informing the assembled chiefs, that +he had come to talk to them about the slaughter of the mate and cook, +belonging to Captain Burke's vessel. Jim Davis, who conducted the palaver +on the part of the natives, professed to know nothing of the matter, the +chiefs present being Bushmen, whereas the party concerned were Fishmen. +After a little exhibition of diplomacy, Davis retired, and Prince Tom came +forward and submitted to an examination. His father is king of the tribe +of Fishmen, implicated in the killing of the two men. The prince denied +any personal knowledge on the subject, but observed that the deed had been +done in war, and that the tribe were not responsible. When asked where +Nippoo was (a chief known to have taken a leading part in the affray), he +at first professed ignorance, but, on being hard pressed, offered to go +and seek him. He was informed, however, that he could not be permitted to +retire, but must produce Nippoo on the spot, or be taken to America. + +The council went on. The depositions of three colonists were taken, and +the facts in the case brought out. They were substantially in accordance +with the narrative already given in this Journal; and, upon full +investigation, Captain Burke was decided to have been the aggressor. The +proceedings of the Fishmen had been fierce and savage, but were redeemed +by a quality of wild justice, and exhibited them altogether in a better +light than the white men. + +This affair being adjusted, the business of the palaver might be +considered at an end, so far as the American squadron had any immediate +connection with it. But there were points of importance to be settled, +between the natives and the colonists. It was the interest of the latter, +that the Fishmen, residing in the neighborhood of the settlement, should +be ejected from their land, which would certainly be a very desirable +acquisition to the emigrants. It seems, that the land originally belonged +to the Sinoe tribe, whose head-quarters are four miles inland. Several +years ago, long before the arrival of the emigrants, this tribe gave +permission to a horde of Fishmen to occupy the site, but apparently +without relinquishing their own property in the soil. Feeble at first, the +tenants wore a friendly demeanor towards their landlords, and made +themselves useful, until, gradually acquiring strength, they became +insolent, and assumed an attitude of independence. Setting the interior +tribe, of whom they held the land, at defiance, these Fishmen put an +interdict upon their trading with foreigners, except through their own +agency. Eight or ten years ago, however, the inland natives sold the land +to the Colonization Society, subject to the incumbrance of the Fishmen's +occupancy, during good behavior; a condition which the colonists likewise +pledged themselves to the Fishmen to observe, unless the conduct of the +latter should nullify it. + +For the last two or three years, the settlement at Sinoe, being neglected +by the Mississippi Society, under whose patronage it was established, has +dwindled and grown weaker in numbers and spirit. The Fishmen, with their +characteristic audacity, have assumed a bolder aspect, and, besides +committing many depredations on the property of the colonists, have +murdered two or three of their number. The murderers, it is true, were +delivered up by the tribe, and punished at the discretion of the Monrovian +authorities; but the colonists at Sinoe felt themselves too feeble to +redress their lighter wrongs, and therefore refrained from demanding +satisfaction. About a month since, an addition of sixty new emigrants was +made to the seventy, already established there. Considering themselves now +adequate to act on the offensive, they determined to drive off the +Fishmen. In this purpose they were confirmed by the Monrovian government; +and it was a part of the governor's business, at the palaver, to provide +for its execution. + +Governor Roberts exhibited much sagacity and diplomatic shrewdness in +accomplishing his object. It was obviously important to obtain the +assistance of the Bushmen, in expelling and keeping away the Fishmen. +They, however, were unwilling to take part in the matter, alleging their +fears as an excuse; although it might probably be a stronger reason, that +they could trade more advantageously with merchant-vessels, through the +medium of the Fishmen, than by the agency of the colonists. + +But the interposition of the American Commodore, and the affair of the +murder, afforded the Governor the advantage of mixing up that question +with the colonial one; so as to give the natives the impression that +everything was done at the instance and under the authority of our armed +force. This vantage-ground he skilfully made use of, yet not without its +being perceived, by the native politicians, that the question of expelling +the Fishmen was essentially distinct from that of the murder of Captain +Burke's seamen. Davis the interpreter, and one of the headmen of the Sinoe +tribe, inquired why the Commodore did not first talk his palaver, and then +the Governor in turn talk his. It did not suit his excellency's views to +answer; and the question was evaded. By this ingenious policy, the Bushmen +were induced to promise their aid in ridding the settlement of its +troublesome neighbors; while the Fishmen, overawed by the presence of a +force friendly to the colonists, submitted to their expulsion with a +quietude that could not, under other circumstances, have been expected. +Doubtless, they had forfeited their claim to the land by non-observance of +the conditions on which they held it; yet, in some points, the affair had +remarkably the aspect of a forcible acquisition of territory by the +colonists. + +No time was lost in carrying the decree of the palaver into execution. +Apprehending hostilities from the squadron, the Fishmen had already +removed most of their property, as well as their women and children, and +had evacuated the town. Governor Roberts, Mr. Brown, Doctor Day, late +government agent, together with a few colonists, repaired to the place and +directed its demolition. This was partially effected by the natives, of +whom some hundreds from the interior were present. They cut down and +unroofed many of the dwellings; and the Governor left directions to burn +every house, if the Fishmen should attempt to re-occupy the town. This +wild horde, therefore, may be considered as permanently ejected from the +ground which they held on so singular a tenure; and thus terminated an +affair which throws a strong light on many of the characteristics of the +natives, and likewise on the relations between them and the emigrants. + +_December_ 3.--We sailed, at two o'clock A.M., for Settra Kroo, fifteen +miles down the coast. Anchored at eleven A.M. A boat being sent ashore, +brought news of the death of Mr. Sawyer, the missionary. He left a wife, +now the only white person at the place. + +4.--The boats landed at Settra Kroo, to settle a palaver. The matter in +question was the violence offered by the natives to Captain Brown, master +of an American vessel, in striking and attempting to kill him. They +admitted the fact, begged pardon, and agreed to pay ten bullocks, four +sheep, and some fowls, or the value thereof, to Captain Brown, and further +to permit him to trade without payment of the usual "dash." This town is +said to be very superior to any other native settlement on the coast; and +the people are the best informed, most intelligent, and the finest in +personal appearance, that we have met with. + +Dined on shore. Mrs. Sawyer presided at the table, although her husband +was buried only yesterday. It is impossible not to look with admiration at +this lady, whose husband and only child have fallen victims to the +climate, yet who believes it her duty to remain alone, upon a barbarous +coast, in a position which perhaps no other woman ever voluntarily +occupied. She is faithful to her trust, as the companion of him who fell +at his post, and is doubtless happy in obedience to the unworldly motives +that guide her determination. Yet I cannot reconcile myself to the idea of +a woman sharing the martyrdom, which seems a proper, and not an +undesirable fate (so it come in the line of his duty) for a man. I doubt +the expediency of sending missionary ladies to perish here. Indeed, it may +well be questioned whether a missionary ought, in any country, to be a +married man. The care of a family must distract his attention and weaken +his efficiency; and herein, it may be, consists one great advantage which +the Catholic missionary possesses over the Protestant. He can penetrate +into the interior; he can sleep in the hut, and eat the simple food of a +native. But, if there be a wife and children, they must have houses and a +thousand other comforts, which are not only expensive and difficult to +obtain, but are clogs to keep the missionary down to one spot. I know how +much the toil and suffering of man is alleviated, in these far-off +regions, by the tenderness of woman. But the missionary is, by his +profession, a devoted man; he seeks, in this life, not his own happiness, +but the eternal good of others. Compare him with the members of my own +profession. We are sustained by no such lofty faith as must be supposed to +animate him, yet we find it possible to spend years upon the barren deep, +exposed to every variety of climate, and seeking peril wherever it may be +found--and all without the aid of woman's ministrations. Can a man, vowed +to the service of a Divine Master, think it much to practise similar +self-denial? + +5.--This morning, while performing my ablutions with a large sponge, a +centipede, four and a half inches long, crawled out of one of the +orifices, and, ran over my hand. The venomous reptile was killed, without +any harm being done. It had probably been hidden in one of a number of +large land-shells, which I brought on board a day or two ago. His touch +upon my hand was the most disagreeable sensation that I have yet +experienced in Africa. + +For a month past it has rained almost every night, but only three or four +times during the day. The tornadoes have not troubled us, and the regular +land and sea-breezes prevail. + +6.--At 4 P. M., anchored off Cape Palmas. The Decatur had hardly clewed up +her top-sails, when she was directed by signal to make sail again. Shortly +afterwards, a boat from the frigate brought us intelligence that there is +trouble here between the natives and the colonists. The boats are ordered +to be in readiness to go ashore to-morrow, in order to settle a palaver. +The Decatur has gone to Caraway to protect the missionaries there. Thus we +are in a fair way to have plenty of work, palavering with the natives and +protecting the colonists. Not improbably, the latter have felt encouraged, +by the presence of our squadron, to assume a higher tone towards the +natives than heretofore. But we shall see. + +8.--We landed, this morning, with nine armed boats, to examine into the +difficulties above alluded to. The first duty that it fell to our lot to +perform, was one of humanity. We had scarcely reached Governor Russwurm's +house, when, observing a crowd of people about a mile off, on the beach, +we learned that a man was undergoing the ordeal of drinking sassy-wood. +The Commodore, with most of the officers, hastened immediately to the +rescue. On approaching the spot, we saw a woman with an infant on her +back, walking to and fro, wailing bitterly, and throwing up her arms in +agony. Further on, we met four children, from eight to twelve years of +age, crying loudly as they came towards us, and apparently imploring us to +save their father. Beyond them, and as near the crowd as she dared go, +stood a young woman, supporting herself on a staff, with the tears +streaming down her cheeks, while she gazed earnestly at the spot where her +husband was suffering. Although she took no notice of us, her low moans +were more impressive than the vociferous agony of the former woman; and we +could not but suppose that the man was peculiarly amiable in the domestic +relations, since his impending fate awakened more grief in the hearts of +_two_ wives, than, in civilized life, we generally see exhibited by one. +Meeting a colonist, with intelligence that the victim was nearly dead, we +quickened our pace to a fast run. + +Before we could reach the spot, however, the man had been put into a +canoe, and paddled out into a lagoon by one of the party, while the +remainder moved on to meet us. The Commodore ordered two of the leaders to +be seized and kept prisoners, until the drinker of sassy-wood should be +given up. This had the desired effect; and, in half an hour, there came to +the Government House a hard-featured man of about fifty, escorted by a +crowd, no small portion of which was composed of his own multifarious +wives and children, all displaying symptoms of high satisfaction. He +looked much exhausted, but was taken into the house and treated medically, +with the desired success. When sufficiently recovered he will be sent to a +neighboring town, where he must remain, until permitted by the customs of +his people to return. He had been subjected to the ordeal, in order to +test the truth or falsehood of an accusation brought against him, of +having caused the death of a man of consequence, by incantations and +necromantic arts. In such cases, a strong decoction of the sassy-wood bark +is the universally acknowledged medium of coming at the truth. The natives +believe that the tree has a supernatural quality, potent in destroying +witches and driving out evil spirits; nor, although few escape, do the +accused persons often object to quaffing the deadly draught. If it fail to +operate fatally, it is generally by the connivance of those who administer +it, in concocting the potion of such strength that the stomach shall +reject it. Should the suspected wizard escape the operation of the +sassy-wood, it is customary to kill him by beating on the head with clubs +and stones; his property is forfeited; and the party accusing him feast on +the cattle of their victim. The man whom we rescued had taken a gallon of +the decoction the previous evening, and about the same quantity just +before we interrupted the ordeal. His wealth had probably excited the envy +of his accusers. + +We had just returned to the Government House and were about to seat +ourselves at the dinner-table, when an alarm-gun was heard from Mount +Tubman. A messenger soon arrived to say that the natives were attempting +to force their way through the settlement, to the Cape. The marines, +together with all the officers who could be spared, were instantly on the +march. The Commodore and Governor Russwurm led the force, on horseback; +the flag-lieutenant and myself being the only other officers fortunate +enough to procure animals. Mine was the queerest charger on which a knight +ever rode to battle; a little donkey, scarcely high enough to keep my feet +from the ground; so lazy that I could only force him into a trot by the +continual prick of my sword; and so vicious that he threw me twice, in +requital of my treatment. The rest of the detachment footed it four miles, +on a sandy road, and under the scorching sun. On the way we overtook +several armed colonists, hurrying to the point of danger. Passing the foot +of Mount Vaughan we reached Mount Tubman, and, ascending a steep, conical +hill, found ourselves on a level space of a hundred yards in diameter, +with a strong picket-fence surrounding it, and a solitary house in the +centre. Fifteen or sixteen armed men were on the watch, as conscious of +the neighborhood of an enemy; the piazza was crowded with women and +children; and from the interior of the house came the merry voices of +above a score of little boys and girls, ignorant of danger, and enjoying a +high frolic. Apart, by the wall, sat a blind man, grasping his staff with +a tremulous hand; and near him lay a sick woman, who had been brought in +from a neighboring farm-house. All these individuals, old and young, had +been driven hither for refuge by the alarm of war. + +Not far off, we beheld tokens that an attack had been made, and sternly +resisted by the little garrison of the stockade. On the side opposite the +Cape, a steep path rose towards the gate. Some twenty yards down this +passage lay a native, dead, with an ugly hole in his scull; and, in a +narrow path to the right, was stretched another, who had met his death +from a bullet-wound in the centre of his forehead. The ball had cut the +ligature which bound his "greegree" of shells around his head, and the +faithless charm lay on the ground beside him. Already, the flies were +beginning to cluster about the dead man's mouth. The attacking party, to +which these slain individuals belonged, were of the Barroky tribe. It is +supposed that, knowing King Freeman to be at variance with the colonists, +and hearing the salute in honor of the Commodore's landing, they mistook +it for the commencement of hostilities, and came in to support the native +party and gather spoil. + +As their repulse had evidently been decisive, we looked around us to enjoy +the extensive and diversified view from the summit of the hill. Casting +our eyes along the road which we had just passed, the principal settlement +was visible, consisting of two separate villages, intermingled with large +native towns, the dwellings in which greatly outnumbered those of the +colonists. On one side of the rude promontory ran a small river; on the +other, the sea rolled its unquiet waves. At a short distance from the +shore was seen the rocky islet, bearing the name of Go-to-Hell, where the +natives bury their dead. Northward, were the farms of those whom the +recent hostile incursion had driven to this place of refuge. In various +directions, several spurs of hills were visible, on one of which, +glittering among the trees, appeared the white edifices of the Mount +Vaughan Episcopal Mission. + +On our return, some of the party halted at the Mission establishment; but +I urged my little donkey onward, and, though this warlike episode had cost +me a dinner, made my re-appearance at the Governor's table in time for the +dessert. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Palaver with King Freeman--Remarks on the Influence of +Missionaries--Palaver at Rock Boukir--Narrative of Captain Farwell's +Murder--Scene of Embarkation through the Surf--Sail for Little Berebee. + + +_December_ 9.--At Cape Palmas. We again landed, as on the preceding day, +and met the redoubtable King Freeman, and twenty-three other kings and +headmen from the tribes in the vicinity. The palaver, like that at Sinoe, +was held in the Methodist Church; the Commodore, the Governor, and several +officers and colonists, appearing on one side, and the natives on the +other. There were several striking countenances among the four-and-twenty +negro potentates, and some, even, that bore the marks of native greatness; +as might well be the case, in a system of society where rank and authority +are, in a great measure, the result of individual talent and force of +character. One head man was very like Henry Clay, both in face and figure. +It is remarkable, too, that one of the chiefs at Sinoe not only had a +strong personal resemblance to the same distinguished statesman--being, as +it were, his image in ebony, or bronze--but, while not speaking, moved +constantly about the palaver-house, as is Mr. Clay's habit in the +senate-chamber. The interpreter, on the present occasion, Yellow Will by +name, was dressed in a crimson mantle of silk damask, poncho-shaped, and +trimmed with broad gold lace. + +The palaver being opened, the colonists complained that the chiefs had +raised to double what it had been, or ought to be, the prices of rice and +other products, for which the settlements were dependent upon the natives; +also, that they would permit no merchant vessels to communicate with the +colonial town. On representation of these grievances, the Kings agreed to +rescind the obnoxious regulations. This, however, did not satisfy the +Governor, who had hoped to induce King Freeman to remove his town to +another site, and allow the colonists more room. As matters at present +stand, the King's capital city is within three hundred yards of Governor +Russwurm's house, and entirely disunites the colonial settlements on the +Cape. In case of war, the communication between these two sections of the +town of Harper would be completely broken off. The Governor, therefore, +proposed that King Freeman should sell his land on the Cape, receiving a +fair equivalent from the colony, and should transplant his town across the +river, or elsewhere. But the King showed no inclination to comply; nor did +the Commodore, apparently, deem it his province to support Governor +Russwurm, or take any part in the question. The point was accordingly +given up; the Governor merely requesting King Freeman to "look his head," +that is, consider--and let him know his determination. + +There was also a complaint made, on the part of the missionaries, that the +natives had cut off their supplies, and had attempted to take away the +native children, who had been given them to educate. I was subsequently +informed, however, by the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, that the missionaries had +no difficulty with the natives, and did not wish their affairs to be +identified with those of the colonists. The above representation, +therefore, appears to have been unauthorized by the mission establishment. +And here, without presuming to offer an opinion as respects their conduct +at this particular juncture, I must be allowed to say, that the +missionaries at Liberia have shown themselves systematically disposed to +claim a position entirely independent of the colonies. They are supported +by wealthy and powerful societies at home; they have been accustomed to +look upon their own race as superior to the colored people; they are +individually conscious, no doubt, in many cases, of an intellectual +standing above that of the persons prominent among the emigrants; and they +are not always careful to conceal their sense of such general or +particular superiority. It is certain, too, that the native Africans +regard the whites with much greater respect than those of their own color. +Hence, it is almost impossible but that jealousy of missionary influence +should exist in the minds of the colonial authorities. The latter +perceive, in the midst of their commonwealth, an alien power, exercised by +persons not entitled to the privileges of citizenship, and to whom it was +never intended to allow voice or action in public affairs. By such a state +of things, the progress of Christianity and civilisation must be rather +retarded than advanced. + +There is reason, therefore, to doubt whether the labors of white +missionaries, in the territory over which the colonists exercise +jurisdiction, is, upon the whole, beneficial. If removed beyond those +limits, and insulated among the natives, they may accomplish infinite +good; but not while assuming an anomalous position of independence, and +thwarting the great experiment which the founders of Liberia had in view. +One grand object of these colonies is, to test the disputed and doubtful +point, whether the colored race be capable of sustaining themselves +without the aid or presence of the whites. In order to a fair trial of the +question, it seems essential that none but colored missionaries should be +sent hither. The difficulties between the Government and the Methodist +Episcopal mission confirm these views. At a former period, that mission +possessed power almost sufficient to subvert the Colonial rule. + +Let it not be supposed, that these remarks are offered in any spirit of +hostility to missionaries. My intercourse with them in different parts of +the world, has been of the most friendly nature. I owe much to their +kindness, and can bear cheerful testimony to the laborious, self-devoting +spirit in which they do their duty. At Athens, I have seen them toiling +unremittingly, for years, to educate the ignorant and degraded descendants +of the ancient Greeks, and was proud that my own country--in a hemisphere +of which Plato never dreamed--should have sent back to Greece a holier +wisdom than he diffused from thence. In the unhealthy isle of Cyprus, I +have beheld them perishing without a murmur, and their places filled with +new votaries, stepping over the graves of the departed, and not less ready +to spend and be spent in the cause of their Divine Master. I have +witnessed the flight of whole families from the mountains of Lebanon, +where they had lingered until its cedars were prostrate beneath the storm +of war, and only then came to shelter themselves under the flag of their +country. Everywhere, the spirit of the American Missionaries has been +honorable to their native land; nor, whatever be their human +imperfections, is it too much to term them holy in their lives, and often +martyrs in their deaths. And none more so than the very men of whom I now +speak, in these sickly regions of Africa, where I behold them sinking, +more or less gradually, but with certainty, and destitute of almost every +earthly comfort, into their graves. I criticise portions of their conduct, +but reverence their purity of motive; and only regret, that, while +divesting themselves of so much that is worldly, they do not retain either +more wisdom of this world, or less aptness to apply a disturbing influence +to worldly affairs. + +But it is time to return from this digression. Matters being now in a good +train at Cape Palmas, we go to use our pacific influence elsewhere. + +10.--We sailed at daylight, and anchored this evening at Rock Boukir. + +11.--In the morning, twelve armed boats were sent ashore from the three +ships. We landed on an open beach, all in safety, but more or less +drenched by the dangerous surf. One or two boats took in heavy seas, +broached to, and rolled over and over in the gigantic surf-wave. On +landing, we found a body of armed natives, perhaps fifty in number, drawn +up in a line. Their weapons were muskets, iron war-spears, long +fish-spears of wood, and broad knives. They made no demonstrations of +opposing us, but stood stoutly in their ranks, showing more independence +of bearing and less fear, than any natives whom we have met with. They +were evidently under military rule, and, as well as the remainder of the +tribe, evinced a degree of boldness, amounting almost to insolence, which, +it must be owned, would have made our party the more ready for a tustle, +on any reasonable pretext. + +The town of Rock Boukir is enclosed by palisades, about eight feet high, +with small gates on every side. It was not the purpose of the natives to +admit us within their walls; but a rain made it desirable that the palaver +should be held in a sheltered place, instead of on the beach, as had been +originally intended. + +We therefore marched in, took possession of the place, and stationed +sentinels at every gate. The town was entirely deserted; for the warriors +had gone forth to fight, if a fight there was to be; and the women and +children were sent for security into the "bush." In the central square +stood the Palaver House, beneath the shadow of a magnificent +wide-spreading tree, which had perhaps mingled the murmur of its leaves +with the eloquence of the native orators, for at least a century. Here we +posted ourselves, and awaited the King of Rock Boukir. + +The messengers announced, that he wished to bring his armed men within the +walls, and occupy one side of the town, while our party held the other. As +this proposition was not immediately acceded to, and as the King would not +recede, it seemed doubtful whether there would be any palaver, after all. +At length, however, the Commodore ordered the removal of our sentinels +from the gates, on one side of the town, and consented that the native +warriors should come in. A further delay was accounted for, on the plea +that the King was putting on his robes of state. Finally, he entered the +Palaver House and seated himself; an old man of sinister aspect, meanly +dressed, and having for his only weapon a short sword, with a curved +blade, six inches wide. Governor Roberts now opened the palaver, by +informing the king that his tribe were suspected of having participated in +the plunder of the Mary Carver, and the murder of her captain and crew. I +subjoin a brief narrative of this affair. + +Two years since, the schooner Mary Carver, of Salem, commanded by Captain +Farwell of Vassalboro', was anchored at Half Berebee, for the purpose of +trading with the natives. Her cargo was valued at twelve thousand dollars. +Captain Farwell felt great confidence in the people of Half Berebee, +although warned not to trust them too far, as they had the character of +being fierce and treacherous. One day, being alone on shore, the natives +knocked him down, bound him, and delivered him to the women and children, +to be tortured by sticking thorns into his flesh. After three hours of +this horrible agony, the men despatched him. As soon as the captain was +secured, a large party was sent on board the vessel, to surprise and +murder the mate and crew. In this they were perfectly successful; not a +soul on board escaped. They then took part of the goods out, and ran the +schooner ashore, where she was effectually plundered. Within a space of +twelve miles along the beach, there are five or six families of Fishmen, +ruled by different members of the Cracko family, of which Ben Cracko of +Half Berebee is the head. All these towns were implicated in the plot, and +received a share of the plunder. A Portuguese schooner had been taken, and +her crew murdered, at the same place, a year before. The business had +turned out so profitably, that other tribes on the coast began to envy the +good fortune of the Crackos, and declared that they likewise were going to +"catch" a vessel. + +The object of our present palaver was to inquire into the alleged agency +of the tribe at Rock Boukir in the above transaction. The King, speaking +in his own language, strenuously denied the charge; at the same time +touching his ears and drawing his tongue over his short curved +broad-sword. By these symbols and hieroglyphics, I supposed him to mean, +that he had merely heard of the affair, and that his sword was innocent of +the blood imputed to him. It seems, however, that it is the native form of +taking an oath, equivalent to our kissing the book. The King agreed to go +to Berebee, and assist in the grand palaver to be held there; complying +with a proposal of the Commodore, to take passage thither in the +Macedonian. Matters being so far settled, the council was broken up, and +the party re-embarked. + +Several of the boats having been anchored outside of the surf, the +officers and men were carried off to them in the native canoes. The scene +on the beach was quite animated. Hundreds of natives, having laid aside +their weapons, crowded around to watch the proceedings. The women and +children came from the woods in swarms, all talking, screaming, laughing, +and running hither and thither. The canoes were constantly passing from +the shore to the boats, carrying two persons at a time. Our men, being +unaccustomed to such rough water and unsteady conveyances, often capsized +the canoes and were tumbled ashore by the surf, perhaps with the loss of +hats, jackets, or weapons. Here was visible the head of a marine, swimming +to one of the boats, with his musket in his hand. Another, unable to swim, +was upheld by a Krooman. Here and there, an impatient individual plunged +into the surf and struck out for his boat, rather than await the tedious +process of embarkation. All reached the vessels in safety, but few with +dry jackets. His majesty of Rock Boukir, too, went on board the frigate, +according to agreement, and probably, by this mark of confidence, saved +his capital from the flames. If all stories be true, he little deserves +our clemency; and it is even said, that the different tribes held a grand +palaver at this place, for the division of the spoil of the Mary Carver. + +We set sail immediately. + +12.--Anchored at half past five P.M., off Little Berebee. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Palaver at Little Berebee--Death of the Interpreter and King Ben Cracko, +and burning of the Town--Battle with the Natives, and Conflagration of +several Towns--Turkey Buzzards--A Love-Letter--Moral Reflections--Treaty +of Grand Berebee--Prince Jumbo and his Father--Native system of +Expresses--Curiosity of the Natives. + + +_December_ 13.--At nine A.M., the boats of the squadron repaired to the +flag-ship, where they were formed in line, and then pulled towards the +shore abreast. The landing-place is tolerably good, but contracted. Four +or five boats might easily approach it together; but when most of the +thirteen attempted it at once, so narrow was the space, that one or two of +them filled. They were hauled up, however, and secured. Our force, on +being disembarked, was stationed in line, opposite the town of Little +Berebee, and the wood in its immediate vicinity. Many of the officers went +up to the Palaver House, a temporary shed erected for the occasion, about +fifty yards from the town-gate. King Ben Cracko now making his appearance, +with five or six headmen or kings of the neighboring tribes, the palaver +began. + +The interpreter, on this occasion, was well known to have been, in his own +person, a leading character in the act of piracy and murder, which it was +the object of the palaver to investigate. He had therefore a difficult +part to act; one that required great nerve, and such a talent of throwing +a fair semblance over foul facts, as few men, civilized or savage, are +likely to possess. With the consciousness of guilt upon him, causing him +to startle at the first aspect of peril, it is singular that the man +should have had the temerity to trust himself in so trying a position. His +version of the Mary Carver affair was a very wretched piece of fiction. He +declared that Captain Farwell had killed two natives, and that old King +Cracko, since deceased, had punished the captain by death, in the exercise +of his legitimate authority. He denied that the tribe had participated in +Captain Farwell's murder, or in those of the mate and crew, or in the +robbery of the vessel; affirming that the schooner had gone ashore, and +that everything was lost. All this was a tissue of falsehood; it being +notorious that a large quantity of goods from the wreck, and portions of +the vessel itself, were distributed among the towns along the coast. It +was well known, moreover, that these people had boasted of having "caught" +(to use their own phrase), an American vessel, and that the neighboring +tribes had threatened to follow Ben Cracko's example. + +Governor Roberts, who conducted the examination on our part, expressed to +the man his utter disbelief of the above statements. The Commodore, +likewise, stept hastily towards him, sternly warning him to utter no more +falsehoods. The interpreter, perceiving that the impression was against +him, and probably expecting to be instantly made prisoner, or put to +death, now lost the audacity that had hitherto sustained him. At this +moment, it is said, a gun was fired at our party, from the town; and, +simultaneously with the report, the interpreter sprang away like a deer. +There was a cry to stop him--two or three musket-bullets whistled after +the fugitive as he ran--but he had nearly reached the town-gate, when his +limbs, while strained to their utmost energy, suddenly failed beneath him. +A rifle-shot had struck him in the vertebra of the neck, causing +instantaneous death. Meanwhile, King Ben Cracko had made a bolt to escape, +but was seized by his long calico robe; which, however, gave way, leaving +him literally naked in the midst of his enemies. A shot brought him to the +ground; but he sprang to his feet, still struggling to escape. He next +received two bayonet wounds, but fought like a wild beast, until two or +three men flung themselves upon him, and held him down by main force. +Finding himself overpowered, he pretended to be dead, but was securely +bound, and taken to the beach. A lion of the African deserts could not +have shown a fiercer energy than this savage King; and those who gazed at +him, as he lay motionless on the sand, confessed that they had never seen +a frame of such masculine vigor as was here displayed. His wounds proved +mortal. + +The melee had been as sudden as the explosion of gunpowder; it was wholly +unexpected, but perhaps not to be wondered at, where two parties, with +weapons in their hands, had met to discuss a question of robbery and +murder. When the firing commenced, about two hundred natives were on the +spot, or in the vicinity; they were now flying in all directions, some +along the beach, a few into the sea itself, but by far the greatest number +to the woods. Many shots were fired, notwithstanding the Commodore's +orders to refrain. We were now directed to break down the palisades, and +set fire to the town. A breach of twenty or thirty feet was soon made in +the wall, by severing the withes that bound together the upright planks. +Before this could be effected, another party crept through the small +holes, serving the purpose of gates, and penetrated to the centre of the +town, where, assembling around the great council-tree, they gave three +cheers. The houses were then set on fire, and, within fifteen minutes, +presented one mass of conflagration. The palisades likewise caught the +flames, and were consumed, leaving an open space of blackened and smoking +ruins, where, half an hour before, the sun had shone upon a town. + +The natives did not remain idle spectators of the destruction of their +houses. Advancing to the edge of the woods, they discharged their muskets +at us, loaded not with Christian bullets, but with copper-slugs, probably +manufactured out of the spikes of the Mary Carver. A marine was struck in +the side by one of these missiles, which tumbled him over, but without +inflicting a serious wound. A party from our ship penetrated the woods +behind the town, where one of them fired at an object which he perceived +moving in the underbrush. Going up to the spot, it proved to be a very +aged man, apparently on the verge of a century, much emaciated, and too +feeble to crawl further in company with his flying towns-people. He was +unharmed by the shot, but evidently expected instant death, and held up +his hand in supplication. Our party placed the poor old patriarch in a +more sheltered spot, and left him there, after supplying him with food; an +act of humanity which must have seemed to him very singular, if not +absurd, in contrast with the mischief which we had wrought upon his home +and people. Meantime, the ships were disposed to have a share in the +fight, and opened a cannonade upon the woods, shattering the great +branches of the trees, and adding to the terror, if not to the loss, of +the enemy. Little Berebee being now a heap of ashes, we re-embarked, +taking with us an American flag, probably that of the Mary Carver, which +had been found in the town. We also made prizes of several canoes, one of +which was built for war, and capable of carrying forty men. The wounded +King Cracko, likewise, was taken on board the frigate, where, next +morning, he breathed his last; thus expiating the outrage in which, two +years before, he had been a principal actor. We afterwards understood that +the natives suffered a loss of eight killed and two wounded. + +15.--The season for palavers and diplomacy being now over, we landed at +seven o'clock this morning, ten or twelve miles below Berebee, in order to +measure out a further retribution to the natives. On approaching the +beach, we were fired upon from the bushes, but without damage, although +the enemy were sheltered within twenty yards of the water's edge. The +boat's crew first ashore, together with two or three marines, charged into +the shrubbery and drove off the assailants. All being disembarked, the +detachment was formed in line, and marched to the nearest town, which was +immediately attacked. Like the other native towns, it was protected by a +wall of high palisades, planted firmly in the soil, and bound together by +thongs of bamboo. Cutting a passage through these, we entered the place, +which contained perhaps a hundred houses, neatly built of wicker-work, and +having their high conical roofs thatched with palmetto-leaves. Such +edifices were in the highest degree combustible, and being set on fire, it +was worth while for a lover of the picturesque to watch the flames, as +they ran up the conical roofs, and meeting at the apex, whirled themselves +fiercely into the darkened air. + +While this was going on, the war-bells, drums, and war-horns of the +natives were continually sounding; and flocks of vultures (perhaps a more +accurate ornithologist might call them turkey-buzzards) appeared in the +sky, wheeling slowly and heavily over our heads. These ravenous birds +seemed to have a presentiment that there were deeds of valor to be done: +nor was it quite a comfortable idea, that some of them, ere nightfall, +might gratify their appetite at one's own personal expense. To confess the +truth, however, they were probably attracted by the scent of some +slaughtered bullocks; it being indifferent to a turkey-buzzard whether he +prey on a cow or a Christian. After destroying the first town, we marched +about a mile and a half up the beach, to attack a second. On our advance, +the marine drummer and fifer were ordered from the front of the column to +the rear, as being a position of less danger. They of course obeyed; but +the little drummer deeming it a reflection upon his courage, burst into +tears, and actually blubbered aloud as he beat the _pas de charge_. It +was a strange operation of manly spirit in a boyish stage of development. + +As we approached the second town, our boat-keepers, who watched the scene, +distinctly saw a party of thirty or forty natives lying behind a palisade, +with their guns pointed at our advanced guard. Unconscious that the enemy +were so near, we halted for an instant, about forty yards from the town, +and then advanced at a run. This so disconcerted the defenders that they +fled, after firing only a few shots, none of which took effect. In fact, +the natives proved themselves but miserable marksmen. They can seldom hit +an object in motion, although, if a man stand still, they sometimes manage +to put a copper-slug into his body, by taking aim a long time. After +firing, the savage runs a long distance before he ventures to load. Had +their skill or their hardihood been greater, we must have suffered +severely; for the woods extended nearly to the water's edge, and exposed +us, during the whole day, to the fire of a sheltered and invisible enemy. + +After the storm and conflagration of the second town, we took a brief +rest, and then proceeded to capture and burn another, situated about a +mile to the northward. This accomplished, we judged it to be dinner-time. +Indeed, we had done work enough to ensure an appetite; and history does +not make mention, so far as I am aware, of such destruction of cities so +expeditiously effected. Having emptied our baskets, we advanced about +three miles along the beach--still with the slugs of the enemy whistling +in our ears--and gave to the devouring element another town. Man is +perhaps never happier than when his native destructiveness can be freely +exercised, and with the benevolent complacency of performing a good +action, instead of the remorse of perpetrating a bad one. It unites the +charms of sin and virtue. Thus, in all probability, few of us had ever +spent a day of higher enjoyment than this, when we roamed about, with a +musket in one hand and a torch in the other, devastating what had hitherto +been the homes of a people. + +One of the sweetest spots that I have seen in Africa, was a little hamlet +of three houses, standing apart from the four large towns above-mentioned, +and surrounded by an impervious hedge of thorn-bushes, with two palisaded +entrances. Forcing our way through one of these narrow portals, we beheld +a grassy area of about fifty yards across, overshadowed by a tree of very +dense foliage, which had its massive roots in the centre, and spread its +great protecting branches over the whole enclosure. The three dwellings +were of the same sort of basket-work as those already described, but +particularly neat, and giving a pleasant impression of the domestic life +of their inhabitants. This small, secluded hamlet had probably been the +residence of one family, a patriarch, perhaps, with his descendants to the +third or fourth generation--who, beneath that shadowy tree, must have +enjoyed all the happiness of which uncultivated man is susceptible. Nor +would it be too great a stretch of liberality, to suppose that the green +hedge of impervious thorns had kept out the vices of their race, and that +the little area within was a sphere where all the virtues of the native +African had been put in daily practice. These three dwellings, and the +verdant wall around them, and the great tree that brooded over the whole, +might unquestionably have been spared, with safety to our consciences. But +when man takes upon himself the office of an avenger by the sword, he is +not to be perplexed with such little scrupulosities, as whether one +individual or family be less guilty than the rest. Providence, it is to be +presumed, will find some method of setting such matters right. In fine, +when the negro patriarch's strong sable sons supported their decrepit sire +homeward, with their wives, "black, but comely," bearing the glistening, +satin-skinned babies on their backs, and their other little ebony +responsibilities trudging in the rear, there must have been a dismal wail; +for there was the ancestral tree, its foliage shrivelled with fire, +stretching out its desolate arms over the ashes of the three wicker +dwellings. + +The business of the day was over. Besides short excursions, and charges +into the bush, the men had marched and countermarched at least twelve +miles upon the beach, with the surf sometimes rolling far beyond our +track. Some hundreds of slugs had been fired at us; and, on our part, we +had blazed away at every native who had ventured to show his face; but the +amount of casualties, after such a day of battle, reminds one of the +bloodless victories and defeats of an Italian army, during the middle +ages. In a word, we had but two men wounded; and whether any of the enemy +were killed or no, it is impossible to say. At all events, we slew a +number of neat cattle, eight or nine of which were sent on board the +ships, where they answered a much better purpose than as many human +carcasses. The other spoil consisted of several canoes, together with +numerous household utensils--which we shall bring home as trophies and +curiosities. There was also a chain cable, and many other articles +belonging to the Mary Carver, and a pocket-book, containing a letter +addressed to Captain Robert McFarland. The purport of the epistle is not a +matter of public interest; but it was written in a lady's delicate hand, +and was probably warm with affection; and little did the fair writer dream +that her missive would find its way into an African hut, where it was +probably regarded as a piece of witchcraft. + +Thus ended the warfare of Little Berebee. The degree of retribution meted +out had by no means exceeded what the original outrage demanded; and the +mode of it was sanctioned by the customs of the African people. According +to their unwritten laws, if individuals of a tribe commit a crime against +another tribe or nation, the criminal must either be delivered up, or +punished at home, or the tribe itself becomes responsible for their guilt. +An example was of peremptory necessity; and the American vessels trading +on the coast will long experience a good effect from this day's battle and +destruction. The story will be remembered in the black man's traditions, +and will have its due weight in many a palaver. Nevertheless, though the +burning of villages be a very pretty pastime, yet it leaves us in a +moralizing mood, as most pleasures are apt to do; and one would fain hope +that civilized man, in his controversies with the barbarian, will at +length cease to descend to the barbarian level, and may adopt some other +method of proving his superiority, than by his greater power to inflict +suffering. For myself personally, the "good old way" suits me tolerably +enough; but I am disinterestedly anxious that posterity should find a +better. + +16.--We sailed at day-light for Grand Berebee. Nearing the point on which +it is situated, the ships hoisted white flags at the fore, in token of +amity. A message was sent on shore to the King, who came off in a large +canoe, and set his hand to a treaty, promising to keep good faith with +American vessels. He likewise made himself responsible for the good +conduct of the other tribes in the vicinity. + +On board the Macedonian, there were five prisoners, who had been taken two +months ago, by the brig Porpoise. One was the eldest son of this King, and +the others belonged to his tribe. The meeting between the King and prince +was very affecting, and fully proved that nature has not left these wild +people destitute of warmth and tenderness of heart. They threw themselves +into each other's arms, wept, laughed, and danced for joy. To the King, +his son was like one risen from the dead; he had given him up for lost, +supposing that the young man had been executed. The prisoners were each +presented with a new frock and trowsers, besides tobacco, handkerchiefs, +and other suitable gifts. The prince received a lieutenant's old uniform +coat; and when they got into their canoe, it was amusing to see how +awkwardly he paddled, in this outlandish trim. He made two or three +attempts to get the coat off, but without success. One of his companions +then offered his assistance; but as he took the prince by the collar, +instead of the sleeve, it was found impracticable to rid him of the +garment. The more he pulled, the less it would come off; and the last we +saw of Prince Jumbo, he was holding up his skirts in one hand, and +paddling with the other. There will be grand rejoicings to-night, on the +return of the prisoners. All will be dancing and jollity; plays will be +performed; the villages will re-echo with the report of fire-arms and the +clamor of drums; and the whole population will hold a feast of bullocks. + +20.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. The natives here were alarmed at the return +of the three ships; and many of them carried away their moveables into the +woods. News of the destruction of the towns below had reached them several +days since. They have a simple, but very effective system of expresses. +When information of great interest is to be conveyed from tribe to tribe, +one of their swiftest runners is despatched, who makes what speed he can, +and, when tired, entrusts his message to another. Thus it is speeded on, +without a moment's delay. Should the runner encounter a river in his +course, he shouts his news across; it is caught up on the other side, and +immediately sent forward. In this manner, intelligence finds its way along +the coast with marvellous celerity. + +23.--We sailed two days ago. Yesterday, there came off from the shore, +some six or eight miles, a couple of canoes, paddled by six men each, who +exerted themselves to the utmost to overtake us. They had nothing to sell; +and their only object seemed to be, to obtain the particulars of the fight +and conflagration at Little Berebee, a hundred and fifty miles below. + +25.--Anchored at Monrovia, and landed Governor Roberts, who, with Dr. +Johnson, had been a passenger from Cape Palmas. + +28.--Sailed for Porto Praya, with the intention of visiting Madeira, +before returning to the coast. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Madeira--Aspect of the Island--Annual races--"Hail Columbia!"--Ladies, +Cavaliers, and Peasants--Dissertation upon Wines--The Clerks of +Funchal--Decay of the Wine-Trade--Cultivation of Pine-Trees--A Night in +the Streets--Beautiful Church--A Sunday-evening Party--Currency of +Madeira. + + +_January_ 19, 1844.--We made Madeira yesterday, but, the weather being +thick and squally, stood off and on until to-day. + +20. Our ship rides gently at her anchor. The Loo rock rises fifty feet +perpendicular from the water, at so short a distance, that we can hear the +drum beat tattoo in the small, inaccessible castle, on its summit. This +rock is the outpost of the city of Funchal. The city stretches along the +narrow strip of level ground, near the shore, with vine-clad hills rising +steeply behind. On the slopes of these eminences are many large houses, +surrounded with splendid gardens, and occupied by wealthy inhabitants, +chiefly Englishmen, who have retired upon their fortunes, or are still +engaged in business. On a height to the left, stands a castle of +considerable size, in good repair. High up among the hills, in bold +relief, is seen the church of Our Lady of the Mount, with its white walls +and two towers. The hills are rugged, steep, and furrowed with deep +ravines, along which, after the heavy rains of winter, the mountain +torrents dash headlong to the sea. + +My remarks on Madeira will be thrown together without the regularity of a +daily journal; for our visit to the island proves so delightful, that it +seems better worth the while to enjoy, than to describe it. + +The annual races are well attended. During their continuance, throngs of +passengers, on foot, on horseback, and in palanquins, are continually +proceeding to the course, a little more than a mile and a half from town. +The road thither constantly ascends, until you find yourself several +hundred feet above the sea, with an extensive prospect beneath and around. +A tolerable space for the track is here afforded by an oblong plain, +seven-eighths of a mile in length. Near the judges' stand was a large +collection of persons of all classes, ladies, dandies, peasants, and +jockeys. Here, too, were booths for the sale of eatables and drinkables, +and a band of music to enliven the scene. + +These musicians saw fit to honor us in a very particular manner. They had +all agreed to ship on board our vessel; and, with a view to please their +new masters, when three or four of our officers rode into the course, they +played "Hail Columbia." We took off our caps in acknowledgment, and +thought it all very fine. Directly afterwards, two other officers rode in, +and were likewise saluted with "Hail Columbia!" Anon, two or three of us +dismounted and strolled about among the people, thinking nothing of the +band, until we were reminded of their proximity by the old tune again. In +short, every motion on our part, however innocent and unpretending, caused +the hills of Madeira to resound with the echoes of our national air. +Finding that our position assumed a cast of the ridiculous, we gave the +leader to understand, that, if the tune were played again, the band's +first experience of maritime life should be a flogging at the gangway. The +hint was sufficient; not only did we hear no more of "Hail Columbia," but +none of the musicians ever came near the ship. + +With few exceptions the running was wretched. One or two of the +match-races (which were ten in number, all single heats, of a mile each) +were well contested. The first was run by two ponies; a fat black one with +a chubby boy on his back, and a red, which, as well as his rider, was in +better racing condition. The black was beaten out of sight. The second +race was by two other ponies, one of which took the lead, and evidently +had the heels of his antagonist. Suddenly, however, he bolted, and leaped +the wall, leaving the track to be trotted over by the slower colt. Two +grey horses succeeded, and made pretty running; but their riders, instead +of attending to business, joined hands, and rode a quarter of a mile in +this amiable attitude. Rather than antagonists, one would have taken them +for twin brethren, like two other famous horsemen, Castor and Pollux. To +the ladies this mode of racing appeared delightful; but the remarks of our +party, consisting of several English and American officers and gentlemen, +were anything but complimentary. The last quarter of this heat was well +run, one of the horses winning apparently by a neck. The judge, however, a +Portuguese, decided that it was a dead heat. + +At one extremity of the course, the hill rises abruptly; and here were +hundreds of persons of both sexes, in an excellent position to see the +running, and to impart a pretty effect to the scene. A large number of +peasantry were present, dressed in their peculiar costume, and taking +great interest in the whole matter. Both men and women wear a little blue +cap lined with scarlet, so small that one wonders how it sticks on the +head. In shape it is like an inverted funnel, running up to a sharp point. +The women have short, full dresses, with capes of a dark blue, trimmed +with a lighter blue, or of scarlet with blue trimming. These colors form a +sectional distinction; the girls of the north side of the island wearing +the scarlet capes, and those of the south side, the blue. In the intervals +of the races, ladies and gentlemen cantered round the course, and some of +them raced with their friends. Three Scottish ladies, with more youth than +beauty, and dressed in their plaids, made themselves conspicuous by their +bold riding, and quite carried off the palm of horsemanship from their +cavaliers. + +A sketch of Madeira would be incomplete indeed, without some mention of +its wines. Three years ago, when it was more a matter of personal +interest, I visited this island, and gained considerable information on +the subject. Madeira then produced about thirty thousand pipes annually, +one third of which was consumed on the island, one-third distilled into +brandy, and the remainder exported. About one-third of the exportation +went to the United States, and the balance to other parts of the world. +The best wines are principally sent to our own country--that is to say, +the best exported--for very little of the first-rate wine goes out of the +island. The process of adulteration is as thoroughly understood and +practised here, as anywhere else. The wine sent to the United States is a +kind that has been heated, to give it an artificial age. The mode of +operation is simply to pour the wine into large vats, and submit it for +several days to a heat of about 110º. After this ordeal, the wine is not +much improved by keeping. + +There are other modes of adulteration, into the mysteries of which I was +not admitted. One fact, communicated to me by an eminent wine-merchant, +may shake the faith of our connoisseurs as to the genuineness of their +favorite beverage. It is, that, from a single pipe of "mother wine," ten +pipes are manufactured by the help of inferior wine. This "mother wine" is +that which has been selected for its excellence, and is seldom exported +pure. The wines, when fresh from the vintage, are as various in their +flavor as our cider. It is by taste and _smell_ that the various kinds +are selected, after which the poorer wines are distilled into brandy, and +the better are put in cases, and placed in store to ripen. The liquor is +from time to time racked off, and otherwise managed until ready for +exportation. It is _invariably_ "treated" with brandy. French brandy was +formerly used, which being now prohibited, that of the island is +substituted, although of an inferior quality. + +Besides the "Madeira wine," so famous among convivialists, there are +others of higher price and superior estimation. There is the "Sercial," +distinguished by a kind of Poppy taste. There is the Malmsey, or "Ladies' +wine," and the "Vina Tinta," or Madeira Claret, as it is sometimes called. +The latter is made of the black grapes, in a peculiar manner. After being +pressed, the skins of the grapes are placed in a vat, where the juice is +poured upon them and suffered to stand several days, until it has taken +the hue required. The taste of this wine is between those of Port and +Claret. There is a remarkable difference in the quality of the vintages of +the north and south sides of the island; the former not being a third part +so valuable as the latter. The poorer classes drink an inferior and acid +wine. + +The vineyards are generally owned by rich proprietors, by whom they are +farmed out to the laborer, who pays half the produce when the wine has +been pressed; the government first taking its tenth. The grape-vines run +along frame-work, raised four or five feet from the ground, so as to allow +the cultivator room to weed the stalks beneath. The finest grapes are +those which grow upon the sunny side of a wall. At the season of vintage, +the grapes are placed in a kind of canoe, where they are first crushed by +men's feet (all wines, even the richest and purest, having this original +tincture of the human foot), and then pressed by a beam. + +Perhaps the very finest wines in the world are to be found collected at +the suppers given by the clerks, in the large mercantile houses of +Madeira. By an established custom, when one of their corps is about to +leave the island, he gives an entertainment, to which every guest +contributes a bottle or two of wine. It is a point of honor to produce the +best; and as the clerks know, quite as well as their principals, where the +best is to be found, and as the honor of their respective houses is to be +sustained, it may well be imagined that all the _bon-vivants_ on earth, +were they to meet at one table, could hardly produce such a variety of +fine old Madeira, as the clerks of Funchal then sip and descant upon. In +no place do mercantile clerks hold so respectable a position in society as +here; owing to the tacit understanding between their principals and +themselves, that, at some future day, they are to be admitted as partners +in the houses. This is so general a rule, that the clerk seems to hold a +social position scarcely inferior to that of the head of the +establishment. They prove their claim to this high consideration, by the +zeal with which they improve their minds and cultivate their manners, in +order to fill creditably the places to which they confidently aspire. + +At my second visit to Madeira, I find the wine trade at a very low ebb. +The demand from America, owing to temperance, the tariff, and partly to an +increased taste for Spanish, French, and German wines, is extremely small. +Not a cargo has been shipped thither for three years. The construction +given to the tariff, by the Secretary of the Treasury, will infuse new +life into the trade. + +The hills around the city of Funchal are covered with vineyards, as far up +as the grape will grow; then come the fields of vegetables; and the +plantations of pine for the supply of the city. The island took its name +from the great quantity of wood which overshadowed it, at its first +discovery. This being long ago exhausted, considerable attention is paid +to the cultivation of the pine-tree, which produces the most profitable +kind of wood. In twelve or thirteen years, it is fit for the market, and +commands a handsome price. Far up the mountains, we saw one plantation, in +which fifty or sixty acres had been covered with pines, within a few +years; some of the infant trees being only an inch high. Thus in the +course of a morning's ride, we ascend from the region of the laughing and +luxuriant vine, into that of the stately and sombre pine; it is like being +transported by enchantment from the genial clime of Madeira into the +rugged severity of a New England forest. + +In going up the mountain, the traveller encounters many peasants, both men +and women, with bundles of weeds for horses, and sticks for fire-wood, +which are carried upon the head. Thus laden, they walk several miles, and +perhaps sell their burthens for ten or twelve cents apiece. Articles +cannot easily be conveyed in any other manner, down the steep declivities +of the hills. In the city, burthens are drawn by oxen, on little drags, +which glide easily over the smooth, round pavements. The driver carries in +his hand a long mop without a handle, or what a sailor would term a "wet +swab." If any difficulty occur in drawing the load, this moist mop is +thrown before the drag, which readily glides over it. + +The beggars of Funchal are numerous and importunate, and many of them +wretched enough, as, in one instance, I had occasion to witness. With a +friend, I had quitted a ball at two o'clock in the morning. The porter of +our hotel, not expecting us at so late an hour, had retired; and, as all +the family slept in the back part of the house, we were unable to awaken +them by our long and furious knocking. Several Englishmen occupied the +front apartments, but scorned to give themselves any trouble about the +matter, except to breathe a slumberous execration against the disturbers +of their sleep. On the other hand, our anathemas were louder, and quite as +bitter upon these inhospitable inmates. Finally, after half an hour's +vigorous but ineffectual assault upon the portal, we retreated in despair, +and betook ourselves to walk the streets. The night was beautifully clear, +but too cool for the enervated frame of an African voyager. We were tired +with dancing, and occasionally sat down; but the door-steps were all of +stone, and, though we buttoned our coats closely, it was impossible to +remain long inactive. + +Near morning, we approached the door of the Cathedral, and were about to +seat ourselves, when we perceived a person crouching on the spot, and +apparently asleep. The slumber was not sound; for when we spoke, a young +girl, a mere rose-bud of a woman, about fourteen years of age, arose and +answered. She was very thinly clad; and, with her whole frame shivering, +the poor thing assumed an airy and mirthful deportment, to attract us. It +was grievous to imagine how many nights like this the unhappy girl was +doomed to pass, and that all her nights were such, unless when vice and +degradation procured her a temporary shelter. Ever since that hour, when I +picture the pleasant island of Madeira, with its sunshine, and its +vineyards, and its jovial inhabitants, the shadow of this miserable child +glides through the scene. + +One of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever seen, is the +English church, just outside of the city of Funchal. The edifice has no +steeple or bells, these being prohibited by the treaty between Portugal +and Great Britain, which permits the English protestants to erect +churches. You approach it through neat gravel walks, lined with the most +brilliant flowers, and these in such magnificent profusion, that the +building may be said to stand in the midst of a great flower-garden. The +aspect is certainly more agreeable, if not more appropriate, than that of +the tombstones and little hillocks which usually surround the sacred +edifice; it is one method of rendering the way to Heaven a path of +flowers. On entering the church, we perceive a circular apartment, lighted +by a dome of stained glass. The finish of the interior is perfectly neat, +but simple. The organ is fine-toned, and was skilfully played. Pleasant it +was to see again a church full of well-dressed English--those Saxon faces, +nearest of kin to our own--and to hear once more the familiar service, +after being so long shut out from consecrated walls! + +Sunday is not observed with much strictness, in Madeira. On the evening of +that day, I called at a friend's house, where thirty or forty persons, all +Portuguese, were collected, without invitation. Music, dancing, and cards, +were introduced for the entertainment of the guests. The elder portion sat +down to whist; and, in a corner of the large dancing room, one of the +gentlemen established a faro-bank, which attracted most of the company to +look on, or bet. So much more powerful were the cards than the ladies, +that it was found difficult to enlist gentlemen for a single cotillion. +After a while, dancing was abandoned, and cards ruled supreme. The married +ladies made bets as freely as the gentlemen; and several younger ones, +though more reserved, yet found courage to put down their small stakes. I +observed one sweet girl of sixteen, standing over the table, and watching +the game with intense interest. Methought the game within her bosom was +for a more serious stake than that upon the table, and better worth the +observer's notice. Who should win it?--her guardian angel? or the gambling +fiend? Alas, the latter! She bashfully drew a little purse from her bosom, +and put her stake down with the rest. + +The currency of Madeira is principally composed of the old-fashioned +twenty cent pieces, called cruzados, which pass at the rate of five for a +dollar. Payments of thousands of dollars are made in this coin, which, not +being profitable to remit, circulates from hand to hand. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Passage back to Liberia--Coffee Plantations--Dinner on Shore--Character of +Col. Hicks--Shells and Sentiment--Visit to the Council Chamber--the New +Georgia Representative--a Slave-Ship--Expedition up the St. Paul's--Sugar +Manufactory--Maumee's beautiful Grand-Daughter--the Sleepy Disease--the +Mangrove-Tree. + + + _February_ 29.--We are on our return to Liberia. The ship is destined to +cruise along the whole coast, from Cape Mesurado to the river Gaboon, +touching at all important and interesting points. It will present the best +opportunity yet enjoyed, to observe whatever things worthy of notice the +country can present. Hourly, as we approach the coast, we perceive the +difference in temperature. It is a grateful change, that of winter to +summer. Last night was as mild as a summer evening at home. I remained on +the forecastle till midnight, enjoying the moonlight, the soft air, and +the cheerful song of a cricket, which had been, in some manner, brought on +board at Porto Praya, a week ago. He seems to be the merriest of the crew, +and now nightly pipes to the forecastle men. + +Our ship slides along almost imperceptibly, yet gets over the sea +wonderfully well. She is a noble ship, stiff, fast, and dry. Her motion is +very easy, and her performance, whether in strong or light breezes, is +always excellent. Her grating-deck has been taken off, as it made her a +little top-heavy and uneasy, and detracted from her speed; and she is +infinitely better for the change. + +_March_ 2.--Anchored at Monrovia, in less than eight days from Porto +Praya, although the winds were light, most of the time. Several of our +Kroomen, who left us, two months ago, completely dressed in sailor-rig, +came on board with only a hat and a handkerchief, and forthwith proceeded +to haul upon the ropes, as before. + +6.--I have been walking through Judge Benedict's coffee-plantation, from +the condition of which I find little encouragement to persons disposed to +engage in the business. The trees are certainly not so thrifty, and are +apparently less in number than they were three years ago. There is little +or no weeding done; consequently, the plantation is overgrown with grass +and bushes, and looks as if the forest might, at no distant day, reclaim +its children. All the trees have been transplanted from the neighboring +woods, and, it is said, do not flourish so well as those raised from seed, +in nurseries. General Lewis has several thousand coffee-plants growing +from the seed, and, in two or three years, will have tested the +comparative advantages of this plan. + +I dined ashore to-day. At the table were a Dutchman, a Dane, four American +officers, and Colonel Hicks. All, except myself, were good talkers, and +composed a delightful dinnerparty. Colonel Hicks, of whom I have before +spoken in this Journal, is one of the most shrewd, active and agreeable +men in the colony. Once a slave in Kentucky, and afterwards in +New-Orleans, he is now a commission-merchant in Monrovia, doing a business +worth four or five thousand dollars per annum. Writing an elegant hand, he +uses this accomplishment to the best advantage by inditing letters, on all +occasions, to those who can give him business. If a French vessel shows +her flag in the harbor, the Colonel's Krooman takes a letter to the +master, written in his native language. If an American man-of-war, he +writes in English, offering his services, and naming some person as his +intimate friend, who will probably be known on board. Then he is so +hospitable, and his house always so neat, and his table so good--his lady, +moreover, is such a friendly, pleasant-tempered person, and so +good-looking, into the bargain--that it is really a fortunate day for the +stranger in Liberia, when he makes the acquaintance of Colonel and Mrs. +Hicks. Every day, after the business of the morning is concluded, the +Colonel dresses for dinner, which appears upon the table at three o'clock. +He presides with genuine elegance and taste; his stories are good, and his +quotations amusing. To be sure, he occasionally commits little mistakes, +such, for instance, as speaking of America as his Alma Mater; but, on the +whole, even without any allowance for a defective education, he appears +wonderfully well. One circumstance is too indicative of strong sense, as +well as good taste, not to be mentioned;--he is not ashamed of his color, +but speaks of it without constraint, and without effort. Most colored men +avoid alluding to their hue, thus betraying a morbid sensibility upon the +point, as if it were a disgraceful and afflicting dispensation. Altogether +the Colonel and his lady make many friends, and are as apparently happy, +and as truly respectable as any couple here or elsewhere. + +Coming to the beach, we found no boat; and nearly half an hour passed +before one arrived to take us on board. In the interim, I strolled along +the shore, picking up the small shells, which the waves had thrown in +abundance upon the sand. In the eye of a conchologist, they would have +been of little value, as all of them were common, and none possessed more +than a single valve. But the purple blush of the interior pleased me; and +what is more, I was gathering these trifles for a lady whom I have never +seen, yet whom I trust that I may venture to count among my friends. I +know that she will be pleased with the poor offering and its giver; for +each of these shells is linked with a thought that flew over the sea--from +the sunset shore of Africa to a fireside in New England--and returned +thence to the wanderer, bringing grateful fancies, reminiscences, and +hopes. It was a smiling half-hour. + +9.--Ashore, and in the council-chamber. It is a spacious apartment on the +second floor of the stone building recently erected for the purposes of a +Legislative Hall and Court-House. The Governor presided, sitting in a high +backed rocking-chair; which, by the by, the natives call a "Missionary +Horse." The colonial Secretary acted as chief-clerk, and Doctor Prout, in +gold-bowed spectacles, as his assistant. An ungainly lad, with big feet +and striped hose, seemed to engross in his own person the offices of +door-keeper, sergeant-at-arms, and page. The council proper consisted of +ten members, who sat at separate desks, arranged semi-circularly in front +of the Governor. The spectators occupied rude benches in the rear of the +members. + +The question before the council related to the building of a market-house +in Monrovia, at the expense of the commonwealth, as proposed in one of the +sections of a bill to form a city government. This being a matter of some +interest, each member expressed his views, but with such brevity that the +whole debate occupied scarcely forty minutes, although several individuals +spoke twice. This conciseness was less a virtue of choice than necessity, +being attributable chiefly to the fact, that the presiding officer set his +face against all vagaries of eloquence, and kept the speakers strictly to +the point. If one wandered in the least, he was instantly called to order, +and compelled to take his seat, upon the slightest deviation from the +rules of the house. One of the members was a wilder specimen of humanity +than even our legislative bodies at home have ever presented to an +admiring world. He was a re-captured African, representing New Georgia, an +uncouth figure of a man, who spoke very broken English, with great +earnestness, and much to the amusement of his brother counsellors and the +audience generally. I regret my inability to preserve either the matter or +the manner of so original an orator. + +Here, as in the various other situations in which I have seen him placed, +Governor Roberts acquitted himself as a dignified, manly, and sensible +person. Deriving his appointment from the Society at home, he can act with +more independence, in an official capacity, than if indebted to the voices +of the members for his position. + +15.--At sea again, on our way to Gallenas. + +17.--Fell in with the English brig-of-war Ferret. Our captain went on +board, and was told that she had been engaged with a large slaver, four +days ago. Previous to the action, the slave-ship went to Gallenas, where +the Ferret's pinnace was at anchor. She ran alongside of the boat, with +three guns out on a side, and her waist full of musketeers--a superiority +of force in view of which the pinnace did not venture to attack her; and +the ship took in nine hundred or a thousand slaves, and went off +unmolested. At sea, she encountered the Ferret, and was fired into +repeatedly by that vessel, during the night, but succeeded in making her +escape. The slaver was under Portuguese colors, and is said to have been +formerly the American ship Crawford, now owned by Spaniards, and bearing a +Spanish name. + +18.--Again came to an anchor at Monrovia. + +19.--Just returned from an excursion up the St. Paul's river. Three +officers, in company with Dr. Lugenbeel, left Monrovia seasonably in the +forenoon, in one of our boats, rowed--and well rowed too--by five Kroomen. +Near the village, we passed from the Mesurado river through Stockton's +creek, seven or eight miles, to the St. Paul's. Our first landing was at +the public farm, where the manufacture of sugar was going on. Twelve +Kroomen (whose power, in this country, is applied to as great a variety of +purposes as those of steam and water in our own) were turning the mill by +two long levers, walking round and round in one interminable circle, like +the horse in an old-fashioned bark-mill. Three or four boys fed the mill +with cane, which about a score of colonists were employed in cutting and +bringing in by small armsfull, from a field in the immediate vicinity. The +overseer, Mr. Moore, and a few other persons, were occupied in boiling the +cane-juice. Mr. Moore informed me that sixteen Kroomen were employed on +the premises, at three dollars per month, and twenty-five colonists at +sixty-two and a half cents a day, besides their food. This year, they make +about thirty barrels of sugar (which will cost at least twenty-five cents +per pound), and two pipes of molasses. The cane, now in process of +manufacture, is very small and unprofitable, all of the larger kind having +been already ground. The sugar-house is a wretched building, with a +thatched roof, and the sides roughly boarded like a cow-shed. There were +four boilers in full bubble, and ten thousand bees in full buzz about the +establishment; the insects bidding fair to hoard up more profit than the +sugar-manufacturers. + +Mr. Moore had accompanied the Niger expedition in the capacity of farmer, +and resided nine or ten months on the model farm, without undergoing the +prevalent sickness. While almost every white man perished, the colored +colonists all survived. A large amount of property was left in the charge +of Mr. Moore, and he returned with the expedition to England. As +superintendent of the public farm, he now receives from the Colonization +Society a salary of three hundred dollars. + +Leaving the farm, we soon entered the St. Paul's, a noble river, which +comes rolling onward from the yet unexplored interior of the country. +Following its course a mile or more towards the sea, we arrived at +Maumee's Town, a village of thirty or forty huts, where a considerable +slave-trade was carried on, until broken up by the colonists under +Governor Ashman. Old Maumee still resides here, and cherishes a bitter +hatred against the Liberians, and all Americans and Englishmen, as having +caused the ruin of her profitable commerce. The old hag was not now at +home, having obeyed the custom of the country by retiring to a more +secluded spot, for the purpose of nursing a sick granddaughter. The +persons who remained were quite uninteresting. The only noticeable group +was composed of two women, one lying flat on her face, with her head in +the other's lap. Her hair being combed out as straight as the tenacity of +its curls would allow, her friend was arranging it in that fine braid with +which it is customary to cover the head. + +Having procured a guide, we crossed the river, and, at the mouth of +Logan's creek, exchanged our boat for a large canoe, in which we followed +the windings of the deep and narrow inlet for nearly two miles. This +brought us to a village of six huts. Without ceremony, we entered the +dwelling of the old Queen (who was busied about her household affairs), +and looked around for her grand-daughter, to see whom was the principal +object of our excursion. On my former visit to Maumee's town, four or five +months ago, this girl excited a great deal of admiration by her beauty and +charming simplicity. She was then thirteen or fourteen years of age, a +bright mulatto, with large and soft black eyes, and the most brilliantly +white teeth in the world. Her figure, though small, is perfectly +symmetrical. She is the darling of the old Queen, whose affections exhaust +themselves upon her with all the passionate fire of her temperament--and +the more unreservedly, because the girl's own mother is dead. + +We entered the hut, as I have said, without ceremony, and looked about us +for the beautiful grand-daughter. But, on beholding the object of our +search, a kind of remorse or dread came over us, such as often affects +those who intrude upon the awfulness of slumber. The girl lay asleep in +the adjoining apartment on a mat that was spread over the hard ground, and +with no pillow beneath her cheek. One arm was by her side--the other above +her head--and she slept so quietly, and drew such imperceptible breath, +that I scarcely thought her alive. With some little difficulty she was +roused, and awoke with a frightened cry--a strange and broken murmur--as +if she were looking dimly out of her sleep, and knew not whether our +figures were real, or only the phantasies of a dream. Her eyes were wild +and glassy, and she seemed to be in pain. While awake, there was a nervous +twitching about her mouth and in her fingers; but, being again extended on +the mat, and left to herself, these symptoms of disquietude passed away; +and she almost immediately sank again into the deep and heavy sleep, in +which we found her. As her eyes gradually closed their lids, the sunbeams, +struggling through the small crevices between the reeds of the hut, +glimmered down about her head. Perhaps it was only the nervous motion of +her fingers; but it seemed as if she were trying to catch the golden rays +of the sun and make playthings of them--or else to draw them into her +soul, and illuminate the slumber that looked so misty and dark to us. + +This poor, doomed girl had been suffering--no, not suffering, for, except +when forcibly aroused, there appears to be no uneasiness--but she had been +lingering two months in a disease peculiar to Africa. It is called the +"sleepy disease," and is considered incurable. The persons attacked by it +are those who take little exercise, and live principally on vegetables, +particularly cassady and rice. Some ascribe it altogether to the cassady, +which is supposed to be strongly narcotic. Not improbably, the climate has +much influence, the disease being most prevalent in low and marshy +situations. Irresistible drowsiness continually weighs down the patient, +who can be kept awake only for the few moments needful to take a little +food. When this lethargy has lasted three or four months, death +comes--with a tread that the patient cannot hear, and makes the slumber +but a little more sound. + +I found the aspect of Maumee's beautiful grand-daughter inconceivably +affecting. It was strange to behold her so quietly involved in sleep--from +which it might be supposed she would awake so full of youthful life--and +yet to know that this was no refreshing slumber, but a spell in which she +was fading away from the eyes that loved her. Whatever might chance, be it +grief or joy, the effect would be the same. Whoever should shake her by +the arm--whether the accents of a friend fell feebly on her ear, or those +of strangers, like ourselves, the only response would be that troubled +cry, as of a spirit that hovered on the confines of both worlds, and could +have sympathy with neither. And yet, withal, it seemed so easy to cry to +her--"Awake! Enjoy your life! Cast off this noon-tide slumber!" But only +the peal of the last trumpet will summon her out of that mysterious sleep. + +On our return, we passed under the branches of the mangrove tree, and +pulled some of the long fruit or seed. This singular seed is about fifteen +or sixteen inches long, and in its greatest diameter not more than an +inch. It is round, heavy, and pointed at both ends. When ripe, it detaches +itself from a sort of acorn, to which the smaller end has been firmly +joined, and falls with sufficient force to implant itself deeply in the +mud. After a few days, it begins to shoot, and soon becomes a tall +mangrove. This tree has many strings to its bow; for, while the seed is +growing, as here described, the branches send down slender and cord-like +shoots, perhaps thirty feet long, and less than an inch in thickness. +These strike into the mud, and aid in giving sustenance to the tree. Thus +the Mangrove presents the appearance of a large tree, supported by +hundreds of lesser trunks, standing so thickly together as to be +impassable for even small animals. Therein it differs from the tree +described by Milton, to which it otherwise seems to bear an analogy:-- + + "In the ground + The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow + About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade, + High overarched, and echoing walks between!" + +Returning to the ship, we found it lighted up, and the Theatre about to +open. The scenery has been much improved, since the last performance, and +the actors are more perfect in their parts. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +The Theatre--Tribute to Governor Buchanan--Arrival at Settra Kroo--Jack +Purser--The Mission-School--Cleanliness of the Natives--Uses of the +Palm-Tree--Native Money--Mrs. Sawyer--Influence of her Character on the +Natives--Characteristics of English Merchant-Captains--Trade of England +with the African Coast. + + +_March_ 21.--The scenery of the theatre having been damaged by the rain, +the other night, it is spread out to dry, and will be re-painted. Much +interest is felt in the Drama, and the exertions of the performers are +rewarded with full houses nightly. Some of the actors have evidently +trodden other boards than these. Among two hundred men, many of whom have +led wild and dissipated lives on shore, it is easy to suppose that enough +are familiar with the theatre in front of the curtain, and a few behind +it. Thus a tolerable company has been collected, needing only a few female +recruits to render it perfect. The dresses and scenery were procured by +general subscription, and are showy as well as appropriate; and many a +manager might deem himself fortunate to engage the whole corps, with +wardrobe and decorations included, for a summer campaign. On board ship, +our buskined heroes are of more importance than Booth, Forrest, or +Macready ashore, as affording amusement to a set of fellows who would have +precious little of it, without this resource. + +22.--At 3 P.M. up anchor for the leeward, and stand off with a good +breeze. + +23.--We have passed Bassa Cove, merely sending in some letters by a +Kroo-canoe, which boarded us. A considerable settlement of colonists is +established here. Many of their houses are visible along the shore, while +two smaller villages, in the immediate vicinity, are concealed by the +woods. The bar at this place has a bad reputation; several boats having +been swamped in passing it. In 1836, ten persons, including a midshipman +and purser's clerk, were drowned here, by the capsizing of a boat +belonging to the frigate Potomac. + +At Bassa Cove, in 1842, died Thomas Buchanan, Governor of Liberia; a man +who has identified his name with the existence of the colony, by his +successful exertions to promote its strength and respectability. No other +person had done so much to impress the natives with awe and respect for +the colonists, and to give Liberia an independent position in the eyes of +foreigners. A year before his death, it was my good fortune to be a +shipmate of this great and excellent man; for great and excellent I do not +hesitate to call him, although the remoteness of his sphere of action has +left his name comparatively obscure. Like all who came in contact with +him, I was deeply impressed with his pure, high, determined, and chivalric +character. In a grove, near the village, he selected a spot for his +burial; and there rest the remains of a finished gentleman, an +accomplished scholar, a fearless soldier, a wise legislator, an ardent +philanthropist, and a sincere Christian. So long as Liberia shall have a +history, Governor Buchanan will be remembered in it. Honor to his ashes! + +24.--Sunday. No service to-day, in consequence of a heavy rain, which +commenced at nine in the morning, and continued till one in the afternoon. +In the evening, four or five miles from land, we were boarded by the mate +of an English brig, at anchor off Grand Botton. He seemed a well-disposed, +off-hand man, telling us, among other things, that he had run away from +the U.S. schooner Enterprise, in the Pacific ocean, four years ago. This +was rather a hazardous communication to make, on the deck of a national +vessel; and it so happened that one of our lieutenants was in the +Enterprise, at the time referred to, and remembered the circumstance and +the man. However, as he had put confidence in us, we did not molest him. + +25.--Anchored at Settra Kroo. + +26.--Ashore, and dined upon roasted oysters, in a native hut. A large, +shrewd Krooman, Jack Purser by name, seems to be the most important +private individual here. He is the great tradesman of the place, and very +accommodating in his mode of transacting business. We saw a specimen of +his dealings with the natives. Being told that we wanted wood, he sent +intelligence through the town; and, directly, many women and girls flocked +to his house, each with a bundle of wood upon her head, which she +deposited near the door. After twenty or thirty loads had been brought, +Jack Purser came forth with a bundle of tobacco under his arm, and threw +the price of each load upon the wood, one, two, or three leaves of +tobacco, according to its size. There was no haggling, as is invariably +the case when a white man is the customer, but all assented to the +decision of the trademan. Jack Purser is a man of fortune, if the number +of his wives, twenty-nine, be a criterion. + +I saw a native doctor making his "greegree," or charm, for rain. There +were two large mortars, with leaves, bark, and roots, in each, and a long +vine extending from one to the other. Into these mortars he poured water, +until it ran over. + +27.--Dined on shore, at Mrs. Sawyer's. The repast consisted of bits of +mutton in palm-butter, mutton roasted, rice, palm-cabbage, chicken, and +papaw, with coffee, but no wine. There are thirty children in the +Mission-school, mostly boys, who show considerable aptitude for learning. +It is an obstacle in the way of educating girls, that many of them are +betrothed before entering school, and, just when their progress begins to +be satisfactory, their husbands claim them and take them away. Mr. Wilson +adopted the plan of taking the pair of betrothed ones; and, after pursuing +their studies in unison (doubtless including the conjugation of the verb, +to love), they left the school together. + +One of the scholars, a little fellow called Robert Soutter, took a strange +fancy to me, and followed everywhere at my heels, expressing a strong wish +to accompany me to Big America. When we returned to the ship, he actually +jumped into the boat, without saying a word, and came off, ready for the +voyage. To be sure, there were few preparations requisite to rig him out. +A handkerchief about his loins comprised all the earthly goods of Robert +Soutter. + +The houses at Settra Kroo are often two stories high, with piazzas round +the whole. The entrance to the upper story is by a ladder from without. +Like other native houses, they are built with bamboo, and thatched. There +being a war with other portions of the Kroo-people, the Beachmen have been +obliged to plant cassada in the town itself, instead of the neighboring +fields. Hence high fences are necessary to keep out the cattle; and these, +being irregular, make it a kind of labyrinth for a stranger. The place is +one of the best on the coast for watering ships, in the dry season. A +large stream of sweet and clear water runs through a grove of palm-trees, +to the sea. Hither come all the women of the village, in the old +scriptural fashion, with the water-jar, holding three or four gallons, on +the head. The consumption of water by the natives is very great. Whether +it be part of their religious ritual, I know not--although cleanliness is +in itself a religion--but the whole population wash themselves from head +to foot, at least twice a day, in fresh water, when to be procured. These +naked people, however, are as much averse as ourselves to being wet by the +rain; and every man of consequence has his umbrella, to protect him both +from sun and shower. + +Palm-trees are more abundant here, than in any place which I have visited +on the coast. No tree, as has been said a thousand times, is so useful as +the palm. It gives a good shade, and is pleasing as an ornamental tree. +The palm-nut is very palatable and nutritious for food, and likewise +affords oil, the kernel as well as the pulpy substance being available for +that purpose. Palm-wine is the sap of the tree; and its top furnishes a +most delicious dish, called palm-cabbage. The trunk supplies fire-wood, +and timber for building fences. From the fibres of the wood is +manufactured a strong cordage, and a kind of native cloth; and the leaves, +besides being used for thatching houses, are converted into hats. If +nature had given the inhabitants of Africa nothing else, this one gift of +the palm-tree would have included food, drink, clothing, and habitation, +and the gratuitous boon of beauty, into the bargain. + +I have procured some of the country-money. It is more curious than +convenient. The "Manilly," worth a dollar and a half, would be a fearful +currency to make large payments in, being composed of old brass kettles, +melted up, and cast in a sand-mould. The weight is from two to four +pounds; so that the circulation of this country may be said to rest upon a +pretty solid metallic basis. The "Buyapart," valued at twenty-five cents, +is a piece of cloth four inches square, covered thickly over with the +small shells called cowries, sewed on. The other currency consists +principally in such goods as have an established value. Brass kettles, +cotton handkerchiefs, tobacco, guns, and kegs of powder, are legal tender. +[Footnote: Specimens of the native money have been presented by the author +to the National Institute at Washington.] + +29.--Mrs. Sawyer was on board yesterday. It is not without regret that we +part with this interesting, energetic, and truly Christian woman. She is +the only white person here, and lives alone among a tribe of savages, as +safe, and perhaps more so, than in a civilized city. The occasional visits +of vessels of war prevent any evil-minded person from molesting her; but +she has little need of guardianship of this nature; for her own kind acts, +and purity of character, will always ensure her the respect of the +natives. Mrs. S. told us, that, before her husband died, the war-king of +the Settra Kroos had quarrelled with him, and was his enemy at the time of +his death. Not long afterwards, this war-king came to Mrs. Sawyer, and +assured her of his protection and assistance to the utmost of his power, +which is very great, as he commands all the fighting-men of the tribe. I +know not that the power of feminine excellence has ever been more +strikingly acknowledged, than by this act of an incensed and barbarous +warrior. Somewhat of her influence, as well as that of the missionaries +generally, is probably owing to her color. Many of the natives look with +contempt on the colonists, and do not hesitate to tell them that they are +merely liberated slaves. On the other hand, the colonists will never +recognize the natives otherwise than as heathen. Amalgamation is scarcely +more difficult between the white and colored races in America, than it is +in Africa, between the "black-white" colonist and the unadulterated +native. + +On our arrival here, we found an English brig, whose commander has been +once on board of us. He has a large assortment of trade-goods of all +sorts, and his vessel is fitted up with a view to comfort in living, as +well as the convenience of trade. + +A native colored woman has her residence on board, as his washerwoman and +stewardess, and likewise, if the captain be not belied, in a more intimate +relation. To-day, also, came in another English brig, the master of which +has a female companion, filling the same variety of offices as the former. +Many of the English trading vessels retain such persons on board, during +the whole time they are on the coast. The masters, so far as we have had +opportunity to observe, have generally been hard-drinking unscrupulous +men. Few of them hesitate to avow their readiness to furnish slavers with +goods, equally with any other purchasers, if they can make their profit, +and get their pay. There is great jealousy among the traders, and much +underhand work to get the business from each other. They have native +trade-men in their interest, all along the coast, watching their rivals, +and preparing to take any advantage that may offer. Profound secrecy is +observed as to their movements and intentions. The crews of some vessels +are seldom allowed to visit the shore, lest they should give information +about the affairs of the master. + +Not a few of the reports about American slavers spring from this jealousy +of trade. The masters of English merchant-vessels, jealous of the +Americans, and desirous to engross the trade to themselves, report them to +the British cruisers as suspicious vessels. The cruiser, if he give too +ready credence to the calumny, will probably overhaul the American, and +perhaps break up his voyage; he being, nevertheless, as honest as any +trader on the coast. But the ends of the Englishman are answered; he sells +his cargo, and cares little about the diplomatic correspondence that may +ensue, and the possible embroilment of the two nations. + +English vessels far outnumber all others on the coast. Dr. Madden, the +commissioner to examine the condition of the British colonial settlements, +reports the total imports into England from the West Coast of Africa, in +1836, at L800,000. In 1840, the exports of British products to Africa +amounted to L492,128, in the transportation of which, 72,000 tons of +shipping were employed. The government and people of England are giving +great attention to this coast, as an important theatre of trade. + +A committee of the House of Commons, in 1842, made extensive and minute +inquiries into the subject, and published a great mass of interesting +information. They recommended, that the Crown should resume the +jurisdiction of several forts, on the Gold Coast, which have been given up +to a committee of merchants; and that there be new settlements +established, and block-houses erected at various points. + +The English have lost the gum-trade, by the French subsidizing the King of +the Trazars, who holds the key to the gum-country; and the mahogany-trade +has been destroyed by that of Honduras, the wood from which is of a better +quality. The experiment on the part of the English, of carrying African +rice to compete with that of America, has likewise failed. + +The subject of American Trade with the west of Africa is so important, +that it may be well to devote a separate chapter to some account of its +nature, and the methods of carrying it on. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +American Trade--Mode of Advertising, and of making Sales--Standard of +Commercial Integrity--Dealings with Slave-Traders--Trade with the +Natives--King's "Dash"--Native Commission-Merchants--The Gold Trade-The +Ivory Trade--The "Round Trade"--Respectability of American +Merchant-Captains--Trade with the American Squadron. + + +More vessels come to the coast of Africa from Salem than from any other +port in the United States; although New York, Boston, and Providence, all +have their regular traders. Some of these trade chiefly to Gambia or +Sierra Leone; others to Gallinas, Monrovia and down the coast, touching at +different points. Others, again, go to the Gaboon river, and the islands +of Princes and St. Thomas; and some stretch still farther south, to +Benguela, and beyond. Most American vessels bring provisions, such as +flour, ship-bread, beef, pork, and hams, which are bought chiefly by the +European or American colonists. The natives, however, are yearly acquiring +a taste for them. The market being often overstocked, this part of the +trade is precarious. Other exports are furniture, boots and shoes, wooden +clocks, and all articles of American manufacture, or such as are used +among civilized men. All the vessels bring New England rum, leaf-tobacco, +powder, guns, large brass pans, and cotton cloth. On these points, a great +deal of correct information has been given by Dr. Hall, and may be found +in some of the numbers of the African Repository. + +The mode of trading has some peculiarities. On arriving at a civilized +settlement, the captain sends his "list" ashore to some resident merchant. +This list contains a schedule of his cargo, with the prices of each +article annexed, and the kind of pay required. Some take only cash. Most +vessels, however, take the productions of the country at a stipulated +price; for instance, camwood at, say, sixty dollars per ton, palm-oil, at +twenty-five to thirty-three cents per gallon, ivory, ground or peanuts, +gold dust, and gum. At the Cape de Verd islands, salt, goat-skins, and +hides, are the chief commodities received in exchange; at Gambia, hides; +at Monrovia, Cape Palmas, and other settlements in Liberia, camwood and +palm-oil are the great staples. There is likewise some ivory, but not in +large quantity. On the Gold Coast, the trade is in gold-dust and palm-oil; +at the Gaboon, in ivory and gold-dust,--and at Benguela, in gum. + +The "list" being put up conspicuously in the merchant's store (such being +the method of advertising in Liberia, where the newspapers are not made +use of, for this purpose), the traders, purchasers, and idlers, come to +see what is for sale. The store becomes, for the time being, the public +Exchange of the settlement, where people assemble, not merely with +commercial views, but to hear the intelligence from abroad, and to diffuse +it thence throughout the country. In due time, the captain comes on shore +with his samples, and individual purchasers bargain for what they want. +The captain receives payment, whether in cash or commodities, and weighs +the camwood, or measures the palm-oil, at the merchant's store. If credit +be given, the merchant is responsible, and receives a perquisite of five +per cent on all sales. The captain takes up his residence on shore, and +sends for goods from his vessel, as they are wanted; while the mate and +crew remain on board, to despatch and receive the cargo. Every vessel has +in its employ several Kroomen, by whom all the boat-service is performed. + +When the demand for goods appears to have ceased, the captain either takes +his unsold cargo away, or leaves a portion to be disposed of in his +absence, and sets sail for another settlement. Here the same process is +gone through with, and so on, until the cargo is sold. The captain then +turns back, touching at the several places where he has left goods, to +receive the proceeds, and thence home to America, for a new cargo. Regular +traders have numerous orders to fill up, from persons resident on the +coast; taking care, of course, to allow themselves a good profit for their +trouble and freight. The trade with the colonists is easy and sufficiently +plain; the only difficulty being the somewhat essential one of obtaining +payment. Colonial traders, in abundance, are eager to buy on credit; but, +possessing little or no capital, they often fail to satisfy their +obligations at the period assigned--if, indeed, they ever pay at all. +Commercial integrity is not here of so high an order as in older +countries, where the great body of merchants have established a standard +of rectitude, which individuals must not venture to transgress. + +Another large branch of business is at places where the slave-trade is +carried on; as at Gallinas and Wydah. Here, provisions, guns, powder, +cotton cloths, and other goods, suitable for the purchase or subsistence +of slaves, are sold at good prices for cash, or bills of exchange. The +bills of Pedro Blanco, the notorious slave-dealer at Gallinas, on an +eminent Spanish house in New York, and another in London, are taken as +readily as cash. A large number of the vessels engaged in the African +trade, whether English or American, do a considerable part of their +business either with the slavers, or with natives settled at the +slave-marts, and who, from their connection with the trade, have plenty of +money. Some of the large English houses give orders to their captains and +supercargoes not to traffic with men reputed to be slave-dealers; but, if +a purchaser come with money in his hand, and offer liberal prices, it +requires a tenderer conscience and sterner integrity than are usually met +with, on the coast of Africa, to resist the temptation. The merchant at +home, possibly, is supposed to know nothing of all this. It is quite an +interesting moral question, however, how far either Old or New England can +be pronounced free from the guilt and odium of the slave trade, while, +with so little indirectness, they both share its profits and contribute +essential aid to its prosecution. + +The method of trade with the natives is more tedious than that with the +colonists, and differs entirely in its character. On anchoring at a +trade-place, it is necessary, first of all, to pay the King his "dash," or +present, varying in value from twenty dollars to seven or eight hundred. +Such sums as the latter are paid only by ships of eight hundred or a +thousand tons,--and in the great rivers, as Bonny or Calebar. The "dash" +may be considered as equivalent to the duties levied on foreign imports, +in civilized countries; and doubtless, as in those cases, the trader +remunerates himself by an enhanced price upon his merchandize. + +The King being "dashed" to his satisfaction, trade commences. The canoes +bring off the articles which the natives have for sale; and the goods of +the vessel are exhibited in return. At first, it is a slow process; either +party offering little for the commodity of the other, and asking much for +his own. But, in a few days, prices becoming established on both sides, +business grows brisk, and flags only when one party has little more to +exchange. Native agents are employed by the stranger; some being Kroomen +attached to the vessel, and others trade-men, inhabiting the native towns. +These men, in addition to their small regular pay, continually receive +presents, which are necessary in order to excite their activity and zeal. + +There is still another mode of trading, resorted to by many masters of +vessels. They entrust quantities of goods--varying in value from a +trifling sum up to a thousand dollars, or even more--to native trade-men. +With these, or part of them, the trade-man goes into the interior, makes +trade with the Bushmen, and brings the proceeds to his employer. These +native agents are sometimes trusted with large amounts, for several months +together, and not unfrequently give their principal great trouble in +collecting his dues. Their families, to be sure, are held responsible, and +the King is bound to enforce payment. Nevertheless, if so disposed, they +can procrastinate, and finally cheat their creditor out of his debt; +especially as the vessel cannot remain long upon the coast, awaiting the +King's tardy methods of compulsion. + +On the Gold Coast, each vessel employs a native who is called its +"gold-taker," and is skilful in detecting spurious metal. The gold-dust is +brought for sale, wrapped up in numerous coverings, to avoid waste. It is +tested by acids; or, more commonly, by rubbing the gold on the +"black-stone," when the color of the mark, which it leaves upon the stone, +decides the character of the metal. The gold, after its weight has been +ascertained, is put by the captain into little barrels, holding perhaps +half a pint, and with the top screwing tightly on. This "glittering dust" +(to use the phrase which moralists are fond of applying to worldly pelf), +commands from sixteen to eighteen dollars per ounce, in England and the +United States. It is gathered from the sands which the rivers of Africa +wash down from the golden mountains; and, when offered for sale, small +lumps of gold and rudely manufactured rings are sometimes found among the +dust--ornaments that have perhaps been worn by sable monarchs, or their +sultanas, in the interior of the country. + +In the ivory trade, small teeth (comprising all that weigh less than +twenty pounds) are considered to be worth but half the price, per pound, +that is paid for large teeth. From fifty cents to a dollar is the ordinary +value of a pound of ivory. Some large teeth sell for a hundred dollars, or +even a hundred and fifty. The sale of such a gigantic tusk, as may well be +supposed, is considered an affair of almost national importance, and the +bargain can only be adjusted through the medium of a "big palaver." The +trade in ivory is now on the decline; the demand in England and France not +being so great as formerly, and America never having presented a good +market for the article. + +Palm-oil is brought from the interior, on the heads of the natives, in +calabashes, containing two or three gallons each. In speaking of the +interior, however, a comparatively short distance from the coast is to be +understood. Gold, where great value is concentrated into small bulk, and +some ivory, may occasionally come from remote regions; but the vast inland +tracts of the African continent have little to do, either directly or +indirectly, with the commerce of the civilized world. + +In dealing with the natives, there was formerly a system much in vogue, +but now going out of use, called the "round trade." The method was, to +offer one of each article; for instance, one gun, one cutlass, one flint, +one brass kettle, one needle, and so on, from the commodity of greatest +value down to the least. In all traffic there is a desire on the part of +the native to obtain as great a variety as his means will compass. If the +native commodity on sale be valuable, the captain offers two or more of +his guns, cutlasses, flints, brass kettles, and needles; if it be small, +and of trifling value, he perhaps exhibits only a flint and a needle as an +equivalent. The native of course tries to get the most valuable, and the +purchaser to pay the least. If the former demand a piece of cloth, and if +it be refused by the captain, the native then asks what he will "room" it +with. The captain, it may be, proposes to substitute a needle; and, after +much talk, the troublesome bargain is thus brought to a point. English +vessels usually have supercargoes; the Americans are seldom so provided. +But the American captains, on the other hand, are respectable, +intelligent, and trustworthy men, almost without exception. The exigencies +of the trade require such men; and any defect, either of capacity or +integrity, would soon be brought to light by the onerous duties and +responsibilities imposed upon them. Great latitude must be allowed them, +or the voyage cannot be expected to turn out profitably. They perform the +double duty of master and supercargo, and perhaps with the more success, +as there can be no disunion or difference of judgment. These captains are +likewise often part owners of vessel and cargo. + +Since the African coast has been made the cruising ground of an American +squadron, the merchantmen have brought out stores, with the expectation of +disposing of them to the ships of war. Some of these speculations have +turned out very profitable; but now, when the Government understands and +has made provisions for the wants of the station, this market is not to be +relied upon. To the officers, indeed, there is a chance, though by no +means a certainty, of selling mess-stores. The prices charged by +merchantmen correspond with the scarcity of the article, and are sometimes +enormous. I have known nine dollars a barrel asked for Irish, or rather +Yankee potatoes, and have paid my share for a small quantity, at that +rate. To those who see this vegetable daily on their tables, it may seem +strange that men should value a potatoe five times as highly as an orange. +After eating yams and cassada, however, for months together, one learns +how to appreciate a mealy potatoe, the absence of which cannot be +compensated by the most delicious of tropical fruits. Adam's fare in +Paradise might have been much improved, had Eve known how to boil +potatoes; nor, perhaps, would the fatal apple have been so tempting. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Jack Purser's wife--Fever on Board--Arrival at Cape Palmas--Strange Figure +and Equipage of a Missionary--King George of Grand Bassam--Intercourse +with the Natives--Tahon--Grand Drewin--St. Andrew's--Picaninny +Lahoo--Natives attacked by the French--Visit of King Peter--Sketches of +Scenery and People at Cape Labon. + + +_March_ 30.--Got under way, at daylight, and stood down the coast. + +I recollect nothing else, at Settra Kroo, that requires description, +unless it be the person and garb of a native lady of fashion. Sitting with +my friend Jack Purser, yesterday, a young woman came up, with a pipe in +her mouth. A cloth around her loins, dyed with gay colors, composed her +whole drapery, leaving her figure as fully exposed as the most classic +sculptor could have wished. It is to be observed, however, that the sable +hue is in itself a kind of veil, and takes away from that sense of nudity +which would so oppress the eye, were a woman of our own race to present +herself so scantily attired. The native lady in question was tall, finely +shaped, and would have been not a little attractive, but for the white +clay with which she had seen fit to smear her face and bosom. Around her +ankles were many rows of blue beads, which also encircled her leg below +the knee, thus supplying the place of garters, although stockings were +dispensed with. Her smile was pleasant, and her disposition seemed +agreeable; and, certainly, if the rest of Jack Purser's wives (for this +was one of the nine-and-twenty) be so well-fitted to make him happy, the +sum total of his conjugal felicity must be enormous! + +31.--Sunday. An oppressively hot day. There are three new cases of fever, +making fourteen in all, besides sixteen or seventeen of other complaints. +There is some apprehension that we are to have general sickness on board. + +_April_ 1.--Off Cape Palmas. A canoe being sent ashore, returned with a +letter from the Rev. Mr. Hazlehurst, stating that two missionaries wish +for a passage to the Gaboon, and making so strong an appeal that the +captain's sympathies could not resist it. So we run in and anchor. + +2.--Went ashore in the gig, and amused myself by reading the newspapers at +the Governor's, while the captain rode out to the mission establishment, +at Mount Vaughan. During my stay, one of the new missionaries, a native of +Kentucky, came in from Mount Vaughan, and rode up to the Government House, +in country style. He was in a little wagon, drawn by eight natives, and +sat bolt upright, with an umbrella over his head. The maligners of the +priesthood, in all ages and countries, have accused them of wishing to +ride on the necks of the people; but I never before saw so nearly literal +an exemplification of the fact. In its metaphorical sense, indeed, I +should be very far from casting such an imputation upon the zealous and +single-minded missionary before me. He is a man of eminent figure, at +least six feet and three inches high, with a tremendous nose, vast in its +longitude and depth, but wonderfully thin across the edge. It was curious +to meet, in Africa, a person so strongly imbued with the peculiarities of +his section of our native land; for his manner had the real Western swing, +and his dialect was more marked than is usual among educated men. With a +native audience, however, this is a matter of no moment. + +We were told that the Roman Catholics are about to leave Cape Palmas, and +establish branches of their mission at the different French stations on +the coast, under the patronage of Louis Philippe. The Presbyterians have +all gone to the Gaboon river. The Episcopal Mission pines at Cape Palmas, +and will probably be removed. The discord between its members and the +Colonial Government continues with unabated bitterness. Mr. Hazlehurst +regrets that the missionaries were identified with the colonists, in our +great palaver with the four-and-twenty kings and headmen, at Cape Palmas. +He believes, that, in case of any outbreak of the natives, the +missionaries on the out stations would fall the first victims. His +sentiments, it must be admitted, are such as it behoves a minister of +religion to entertain, in so far as he would repudiate military force as +an agent for sustaining the cause of missions. + +We sailed at noon for the leeward without the missionaries, who declined +taking passage, as it is doubtful whether the ship will proceed beyond +Cape Coast Castle. We have now fifteen cases of fever, most of them mild +in character. The prospect of sickness will cut short our leeward cruise. + +4.--Off Tahoo. The natives have come on board, with fowls, ivory, and +monkey-skins, to "make trade." Tobacco is the article chiefly sought for +in exchange. A large canoe came off, with a small English flag displayed, +and a native in regimentals standing erect; a most unusual and +inconvenient posture to be maintained in a canoe. Mounting the ship's +side, he proved to be no less a man than King George of Grand Bassam. His +majesty wore a military frock trimmed with yellow, two worsted epaulettes +on his shoulders, and an English hussar-cap on his head, with the motto +FULGOR ET HONOS. A cloth around his loins completed his heterogeneous +equipment. In the canoe was a small bullock, tied by the feet, together +with several ducks, chickens, kids, and plantains. The bullock and one +duck were presented to the captain by way of "dash;" always the most +expensive mode of procuring provisions, for, unless you dash the donor to +at least an equal extent, he will certainly importune you for more. King +George remarked that the other articles in the canoe belonged to the boys, +and were for sale. They refused to sell them, however, until the King, +after eating and drinking his fill in the cabin, went out, and engaged in +the traffic at once. The liquor brought out his real character; and this +royal personage scolded and haggled like a private trader, and a sharp one +too. + +Having sold his stock, and received much more than its value, his majesty +thought it not beneath his station to beg, and thus obtain divers odd +things for his wardrobe and larder. When he could get no more, he finally +took his leave, carrying off the remains of the food which had been set +before him, without so much as an apology. + +We have been running along that portion of the coast, where, three months +ago, we burned the native towns. No attempt has yet been made to rebuild +them, for fear of a second hostile visit from the ships; but the natives +have indirectly applied to the Commodore for permission to do so, and it +will probably be granted, on their pledging themselves to good behavior. + +5.--At anchor off Grand Berebee. All day, the ship has been thronged with +natives. They are civil at first, but almost universally display a bad +trait of character, by altering their manners for the worse, in proportion +to the kindness shown them. As they acquire confidence, they become +importunate, and almost impudent. Every canoe brings something to sell. It +is amusing to see these people paddling alongside with two or three +chickens tied round their necks, and hanging down their backs, with an +occasional flutter that shows them to be yet alive. Some of the kings hold +umbrellas over their heads; rather, one would suppose, as a mark of +dignity, than from a tender regard to their complexions. These umbrellas +were afterwards converted into bags, to hold the bread which they +received. + +The weather has been cooler for two days, and the fever-patients are fast +improving. + +6.--This morning, our visitors of yesterday, and many more, came +alongside, but only persons of distinction were admitted on board. +Nevertheless, they suffice to crowd the deck. A war-canoe, with a king in +it, paddled round the ship twice, all the men working for dear life, by +way, I suppose, of contrasting their naval force with our own. All our +guests, of whatever rank, come to trade or to beg; and it is curious to +see how essentially their estimation of money differs from our own. Coin +is almost unknown in the traffic of the coast, and it is only those who +have been at Sierra Leone, or some of the colonial settlements, who are +aware of its value. One "cut money," or quarter of a dollar, is the +smallest coin of which most of the natives have any idea. This is +invariably the price of a fowl, when money is offered; but a head of +tobacco or a couple of fish-hooks would be preferred. Empty bottles find a +ready market. Yesterday, I "dashed" three or four great characters with a +bottle each; all choosing ale or porter bottles in preference to an +octagonal-sided one, used by "J. Wingrove and Co." of London, in putting +up their "Celebrated Raspberry Vinegar." The chiefs must have consulted +about it afterwards; for, this morning, no less than three kings and a +governor, begged, as a great favor, that I would give them that particular +bottle, and were sadly disappointed, on learning that it had been paid +away for a monkey-skin. No other bottle would console them. + +After the traffic is over, the begging commences; and they prove +themselves artful as well as persevering mendicants. Sometimes they make +an appeal to your social affections; "Massa, I be your friend!" The rascal +has never seen you before, and would cut your throat for a pound of +tobacco. Another seeks to excite your compassion: "My heart cry for a +bottle of rum!" and no honest toper, who has felt what that cry is, can +refuse his sympathy, even if he withhold the liquor. A third applicant +addresses himself to your noble thirst for fame. "Suppose you dash me, I +take your name ashore, and make him live there!" And certainly a deathless +name, at the price of an empty bottle or a head of tobacco, is a bargain +that even a Yankee would not scorn. + +7.--We passed Tahoo in the night, and are now running along a more +beautiful country. The land is high and woody, unlike the flat and marshy +tracts that skirt the shores to windward. These are the Highlands of +Drewin. The ship has been full of Grand Drewin people, who come to look +about them, to beg, and to dispose of fowls, ducks, cocoa-nuts, and small +canoes. They are the most noisy set of fellows on the coast. + +8. We left Grand Drewin, and anchored at St. Andrew's, six miles distant. +The inhabitants, being at war with those of Grand Drewin, do not come off +to us, apprehending that their enemies are concealed behind the ship. +These tribes have been at war more than a year, and have made two +expeditions, resulting in the death of two men on one side and three on +the other. The army of Grand Drewin, having slain three, boasts much of +its superior valor. It must be owned, that the absurdity of war, as the +ultimate appeal of nations, becomes rather strikingly manifest, by being +witnessed on a scale so ridiculously minute. + +9.--A message having been sent in to inform the King of our character, +three or four canoes came off to us. The inhabitants have little to sell +compared with those of Grand Drewin. Indian corn, which does not flourish +so well to windward, has been offered freely at both places, in the ear. + +I went ashore, in company with four other officers. The bar is difficult, +and, in rough weather, must be dangerous. A broad bay opens on your sight, +as soon as the narrow and rocky mouth of the river is passed. Two large +streams branch off, and lose themselves among the high trees upon their +banks. A number of cocoa-nut trees, on the shore, made a thick shade for +fifteen or twenty soldiers, who loitered about, or sat, or lay at length +upon the ground, watching against the approach of the enemy. Some held +muskets in their hands; others had rested their weapons against the trunks +of the trees. We were first conducted to the residence of King Queah, who +received us courteously, regaled us with palm-wine, and inflicted a duck +upon us by way of "dash." The wine, in a capacious gourd, was brought out, +and placed in the centre of the large open space, where we sat. The King, +his headman, and his son, all drank first, in order to prove that the +liquor was not poisonous; a ceremony which makes one strongly sensible of +being among people, who have no very conscientious regard for human life. +The mug was then refilled, and passed to us. + +On the walls of the house there were fresco-paintings, evidently by a +native artist, rudely representing persons and birds. The most prominent +figures were the King, seated in a chair, and seven wives standing in a +row before him, most of them with pipes in their mouths. Black, red, and +white, were apparently the only colors that the painter's palette +supplied. The groundwork was the natural color of the clay, which had been +plastered upon the wall of wicker-work. + +There seem to be two crowned heads at this place, reminding one of the two +classic Kings of Brentford; for, after leaving King Queah, we were led to +the house of another sovereign, styled King George. The frequent +occurrence of this latter name, indicates the familiarity between the +natives and the English. His Majesty received us in state; that is to say, +chairs were placed for the visitors, and the King, with a black hat on his +head, looked dignified. I was so fortunate as to make a favorable +impression on his principal wife, by means of an empty bottle and a head +of tobacco, which she was pleased to accept at my hands in the most +gracious manner. Though probably fifty years of age, she had beautified +herself, and concealed the touch of time by streaks of soot carefully laid +on over her face and body. + +The houses of each family are enclosed within bamboo walls, sometimes to +the number of eight or ten huts in one of these insulated hamlets. They +are generally wretched hovels, and of the simplest construction, merely a +thatched roof, like a permanent umbrella, with no lower walls, and no +ends. Altogether, the dwellings and their inhabitants looked miserable +enough. The tribe has the reputation of being treacherous and cruel, and +the aspect of the people is in accordance with their character. + +I purchased a man's cloth, of native manufacture. It is said to be made of +the bark of a tree, pounded together so as to be strong and durable. I +also procured a hank of fine white fibre of the pine-apple leaf. Of this +material the natives make strong and beautiful fishing-lines, and other +cords. Before being twisted it has the appearance of hemp. + +11.--We anchored, last evening, at Picaninny Lahoo. Only one canoe has +come off to us. The natives are shy of all strange vessels, in consequence +of a French man-of-war having fired upon one of the neighboring towns, a +few days since. It seems that a French merchant-barque was wrecked here, +by running ashore. The master saved his gold and personal property, and he +and the crew were kindly treated; but the vessel and cargo were plundered, +in accordance with the custom of the African coast, as well as of +countries that boast more of their civilisation. Nevertheless, the captain +of the French man-of-war demanded restitution, and kept up a fire upon the +town for several successive days. An English merchant-vessel, lying there +at the time, protested against the cannonade, and threatened to report the +French captain to Lord Stanley!--on the plea that his measures of +hostility prevented the natives from engaging in trade. + +In fact, these masters of English merchant-vessels would probably consider +the interruption of trade as the greatest of all offences against human +rights. We boarded a brig of that nation to-day, and found her full of +natives, with whom a very brisk business was going forward. Some brought +palm-oil, and others gold, which they exchanged principally for guns, +cloth, and powder. We here saw the gold tested by the "blackstone;" a +peculiar kind of mineral, black, with a slight tinge of blue. If, when the +gold is rubbed upon this stone, it leaves a reddish mark, it is regarded +as a satisfactory proof of its purity; otherwise, there is more or less +alloy. The trader is obliged to depend upon the judgment and integrity of +a native in his employ, who is skilful in trying gold. The average profit, +acquired by the foreign traders in their dealings with the natives, is not +less than a hundred per cent. on the principal articles, and much more on +the smaller ones. No inconsiderable portion of this, however, is absorbed +by the numerous "dashes;" in the first place, to the king, then to the +head trade-men, the canoe-men, and all others whose agency can anywise +influence the success of the business. + +The masters or supercargoes of English vessels receive, besides their +regular pay of six pounds per month, a commission of five per cent. on all +sales; they being responsible for any debts which they may allow the +natives to contract. + +12.--Ashore at Cape Lahon, the scene of the recent hostilities between the +French and the natives. We landed in large heavy canoes, flat-bottomed and +square-sided. The town is built upon a narrow point of land between the +sea and a lake, just at the outlet of two rivers. On the side next the +sea, you discern only the bamboo walls of the town, and a few cocoa-nut +trees, scattered along the sandy beach; but on the lake side, there is one +of the loveliest views imaginable. The quiet lake and its wooded islands; +the thousand of green cocoa-nut trees, laden with fruit, and shadowing all +the shore; the rivers, broad and dark, stretching away on either hand, +until lost among the depths of the forest, which doubtless extends into +the mysterious heart of Africa; the canoes, returning along these majestic +streams with people who had fled; the hundreds of natives who reclined in +the shade, or clustered around a fountain in the sand, or busied +themselves with the canoes;--all contributed to form a picture which was +very pleasant to our eyes, long wearied as we were with the sight of ocean +and sky, and the dreary skirts of the sea-shore. It was an hour of true +repose, while we lay in the shadow of the trees, and drank the cool milk +of cocoa-nuts, which the native boys plucked and opened for us. + +I should have narrated, in the first place, our visit to King Peter, who +rules over this beautiful spot. He held his court under an awning of +palm-leaves, in an area of more than a hundred feet square, around the +sides of which were the little dwellings that, conjointly, composed his +palace. The King received us with dignity and affability; and probably not +less than two hundred of his subjects were collected in the area, to +witness the interview; for it was to them a matter of national importance. +They are exceedingly anxious to adjust their difficulties with the French, +and hope to interest us as mediators. By their own history of the affair, +which was laid before us at great length, they appear to have been only +moderately to blame, and to have suffered a great deal of mischief. King +Quashee and nine men were killed, and fifty or sixty houses burnt, besides +other damage. + +These people are a fine-looking race, well formed, and with very pleasing +countenances. At our first arrival the women were all at the plantations, +in the interior, whither they had fled when our ship came in sight, +apprehending her to be French. Towards evening, they returned to the +village, and afforded us an opportunity to see and talk with them. They +are the handsomest African dames with whom I have formed an acquaintance, +and the most affable. It grieves me to add, that, like all their +countrymen and countrywomen, they are importunate beggars, and seem +greatly to prefer the fiery liquors of the white man to their own mild +palm-wine and cocoa-nut milk. One of our party offered rum to the eight +young wives of Tom Beggree, our trade-man; and every soul of them tossed +off her goblet without a wry face, though it was undiluted, and +thirty-three per cent. above proof. + +As at other places, each family resides in a separate enclosure, which is +larger or smaller, according to the number of houses required. Domestic +harmony is in some degree provided for, by allotting a separate residence +to each wife. There is a courtyard before most of the enclosures, after +traversing which, you enter a spacious square, and perceive neatly built +houses on all four of its sides. They are constructed of bamboo-cane +placed upright, and united by cross-pieces of the same, strongly sewed +together with thongs of some tough wood. Some of the floors are not +untastefully paved with small pebbles, intermingled with white shells. +Doors there are none, the entrance being through the windows, in order to +keep out the pigs and sheep, which abound in the enclosures. The streets +or passages through the town are about five feet wide, and are bordered on +either side by the high bamboo wall of some private domain. The settlement +extends more than a mile in length, and is the largest and best-built that +I have yet had the good fortune to see on the coast of Africa. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Visit from two English Trading-Captains--The Invisible King of +Jack-a-Jack--Human Sacrifices--French Fortresses at Grand Bassam, at +Assinee, and other points--Objections to the Locality of +Liberia--Encroachments on the Limits of that Colony--Arrival at +Axim--Sketches of that Settlement--Dix Cove--Civilized Natives--An +Alligator. + + +_April_ 14.--Under way from Cape Lahon at daylight. All the morning, +there were light breezes and warm air; but a fine sea-breeze set in, in +the afternoon, and brought us, at seven o'clock, to anchor at "Grand +Jack," or "Jack-a-Jack." The distributors of names along this coast +deserve no credit for their taste. The masters of two English merchantmen +came on board and spent the evening. One of them was far gone with a +consumption; the other was, in his own phrase, a "jolly cock," and seemed +disposed to make himself amusing; in pursuance of which object he became +very drunk, before taking his departure. Englishmen, in this station of +life, do not occupy the same social rank as with us, and, consequently, +have seldom the correct and gentlemanly manners of our own ship-masters. +The master of an English merchant-vessel would hardly be considered a fit +guest for either the cabin or ward-room of a British man-of-war. + +These masters informed us that they had paid three hundred dollars each, +for the king's "dash," at this place; in addition to which, every +merchant-captain must pay eight dollars on landing, and if from Bristol, +twenty-four dollars. This distinction is in consequence of a Bristol +captain having shot a native, some years ago; and when the palaver was +settled, the above amount of blood-money was imposed upon all ship-masters +from the same place. Our two visitors have now been here for months, and +will remain for months longer, without once setting foot on shore; partly +to avoid incurring the impost on landing, partly from caution against the +natives, and partly to keep their business secret. The jealousy between +the traders is very great. Those from Bristol, Liverpool, and London, all +are in active competition with each other, and with any foreigner who may +come in their way; and their policy may truly be described as +Machiavelian, in its mystery, craft, and crookedness. The business +requires at least as long an apprenticeship as the diplomacy of nations, +and a new hand has but little chance among these sharp fellows. + +15.--Some canoes from the shore have been off to us. We learn from them, +that there is to be a great annual festival today; on which occasion the +king, who has been secluded from the sight of his subjects for eight +years, will shine forth again, "like a re-appearing star." There is +something very provocative to the imagination in this circumstance. What +can have been the motive of such a seclusion? was it in the personal +character of the king, and did he shut himself up to meditate on high +matters, or to revel in physical indulgence? or, possibly, to live his own +simple life, untrammelled by the irksome exterior of greatness? or was it +merely a trick of kingcraft, in order to deify himself in the superstition +of his people, by the awfulness of an invisible presence among them? Be +the secret what it may, it would be interesting to observe the face of the +royal hermit, at the moment when the sunshine and the eyes of his subjects +first fall upon it again. The inhabitants from many miles around have come +to witness and participate in the ceremonies. There are to be grand +dances, and all manner of festivity; and one of the English captains +informed us that he had sold a thousand gallons of rum, within a +fortnight, to be quaffed at this celebration. + +There is another circumstance that may give the festival a darker +interest. It is customary, on such occasions, to sacrifice one or two +slaves, who are generally culprits reserved for this anniversary. The +natives on board deny that there will be any such sacrifice, but admit +that a palaver will be held over a slave, who had attempted to escape. +Should it be so, the poor wretch will stand little chance for mercy at the +hands of these barbarians, frenzied with rum, and naturally blood-thirsty. +We are all anxious to go on shore, to see the ceremonies, and try to save +the destined victim; or, if better may not be, to witness the thrilling +spectacle of a human sacrifice, which, being partly a religious rite, is +an affair of a higher order than one of our civilized executions. But our +captain has heard of an English vessel ashore and in distress, a day's +sail below, and is hastening to their assistance. While taking our +departure, therefore, we can only turn our eyes towards the shore, where a +large town is visible, clustered under the shelter of a cocoa-nut grove. + +16.--At 7 A.M., we are passing Grand Bassam, seven or eight miles from +land. Our track just touches the outer edge of the semicircular line of +dirty foam, indicating the distance to which the influence of the river +extends. Within the verge, the water is discolored by recent contact with +the earth; beyond it, ripples the uncontaminated, pure, blue ocean. One is +the emblem of human life, muddied with base influences; the other, of +eternity, which is only not transparent because of its depth. + +Grand Bassam is one of the many places on the coast, where the French have +recently established forts, and raised their flag. Three large houses are +visible. The one in the centre seems to be the military residence and +stronghold; the other two are long buildings, one story high, and are +probably used as storehouses. A picket-fence surrounds the whole. At +Assinee, likewise, which is now in sight, there is another French fort, +consisting of a block-house and two store-houses, encompassed by pickets. +The French government are also fortifying other points along the coast, in +the most systematic manner. The general plan is, a block-house in the +centre, with long structures extending from each angle, two for barracks, +and two for trading-houses; the whole enclosed within a stockade. They are +imposing establishments, and constructed with an evident view to +durability. It is said that all but French vessels are to be prohibited +from trading within range of their guns, and that a man-of-war is to be +stationed at each settlement. The captain of a Bremen brig informed me, +that the Danes are about to sell their fort at Accra to the French; he +gave as his authority the single Danish officer remaining at Accra. + +It is perhaps to be regretted that the colonies of Liberia were not +originally planted in the fertile territory along which we have recently +sailed, and which other nations are now pre-occupying. Liberia does not +appear to possess so rich a soil as most other parts of the coast; there +is more sand, and more marsh, above than below Cape Palmas. But the +country between Cape Palmas and Axim is inhabited by cruel, warlike, and +powerful tribes; and a colony would need more strength than Liberia has +ever yet possessed, to save it from destruction. From Axim to Accra, there +is a chain of forts which have been held by different European nations, +for centuries; nearly all the coast is claimed by these foreigners; while +the interior is occupied by such powerful kingdoms as those of Ashantee +and Dahomey. On these accounts, the tract now called Liberia (extending +about three hundred miles, from Cape Mesurado to Cape Palmas) was the most +open for the purposes of colonization. Even within the limits just named, +however, both France and England have recently betrayed a purpose of +effecting settlements. It is to be hoped that these nations will hereafter +transfer their titles to Liberia. Their policy doubtless is, to hold the +country for its exclusive trade, or until they can obtain advantageous +terms of commercial intercourse with the colonists and natives. The +attention of the Society at home, as well as of the Liberian government, +is now fully awake to the importance of securing territory. They are +aware, that, without vigorous and prompt measures to extinguish the native +title to the country between Monrovia and Cape Palmas, foreign nations +will occupy the intermediate positions, and cause much embarrassment +hereafter. + +17.--At Assinee. We boarded a French brig-of-war, the Eglantine, last +evening, and learned that the vessel, which ran ashore here, had gone to +pieces; so that all our hurry was of no avail. + +Sailed at 9 A.M. for Axim. + +18.--Last night, we had thunder, lightning, wind, and rain. There are +showers and small tornadoes, almost every night, succeeded by clear and +pleasant days. We are now in sight of Cape-Three-Points, and the fort at +Axim. It is pleasant, after the monotonous aspect of the shore to +windward, to see a coast with deep indentations and bold promontories. The +fort at Axim has a commanding appearance, and the country in the vicinity +has a decidedly New-England look. + +19.--Ashore at Axim, where we met with some features of novelty. The fort +here is really an antique castle, having been built by the Portuguese so +long ago as 1600, and taken from them by its present possessors, the +Dutch, in 1639. It is of stone, built upon scientific principles, with +embrasures for cannon and loop-holes for musketry. The walls are four feet +thick, and capable of sustaining the assault of ten thousand natives. The +fortress is three stories high, the basement story being widest, and each +of the others diminishing in proportion, and surrounded by a terrace. The +two lower departments are intended for the cannon and the mass of the +defenders; while the Governor occupies the upper as his permanent +residence, and may there fortify himself impregnably, even if an enemy +should possess the fort below--unless, indeed, they should blow him into +the air. + +The country claimed by the Dutch, extends about thirty miles along the +coast, and twenty miles into the interior, with a population estimated at +about ten thousand. They seem--particularly those who reside in the +villages beneath the fortress--to be entirely under the control of their +European masters, and to live comfortably, and be happy in their +condition. The natives possess slaves; and there are also many "pawns," of +a description seldom offered to the pawnbrokers in other parts of the +world; namely, persons who have pledged the services of themselves and +family to some creditor, until the debt be paid. It is a good and forcible +illustration of the degradation which debt always implies, though it may +not always be outwardly visible, as here at Axim. The Governor himself, +who is a native of Amsterdam, and apparently a mulatto, is one of those +pawn-brokers who deal in human pledges. He is a merchant-soldier, bearing +the military title of lieutenant, and doing business as a trader. The +Governor of El Mina is his superior officer, and the fort at Axim is +garrisoned by twelve black soldiers from the former place. War has existed +for several years between these Dutch settlements and their powerful +neighbor, the king of Appollonia, who is daily expected to attack the +fortress. In that event, the people in the neighboring villages would take +refuge within the walls, and there await the result. + +The native houses are constructed in the usual manner, of small poles and +bamboo, plastered over with clay, and thatched. They might be kept +comfortable if kept in repair, but are mostly in a wretched state, +although thronged with occupants. The proportion of women, as well as +children, appears larger than in other places; and they wear a greater +amplitude of apparel than those of their sex on the windward coast, +covering their persons from the waist to the knee, and even lower. The +most remarkable article of dress is one which I have vaguely understood to +constitute a part of the equipment of my own fair countrywomen--in a word, +the veritable bustle. Among the belles of Axim, there is a reason for the +excrescence which does not exist elsewhere; for the little children ride +astride of the maternal bustle, which thus becomes as useful, as it is +unquestionably ornamental. Fashion, however, has evidently more to do with +the matter than convenience; for old wrinkled grandams wear these +beautiful anomalies, and little girls of eight years old display +protuberances that might excite the envy of a Broadway belle. Indeed, +fashion may be said to have its perfect triumph and utmost refinement, in +this article; it being a positive fact, that some of the Axim girls wear +merely the bustle, without so much as the shadow of a garment. Its native +name is "tarb koshe." + +Axim is said to be perfectly healthy, there being no marshes in the +vicinity. The soil is fertile and the growth luxuriant. There is a fine +well of water, from which ships may be supplied abundantly and easily, +though not cheaply. The landing place is protected by small islands and +reefs, which break the force of the swell; so that boats may land with as +much safety and as little difficulty as in a river. One of our boats, +nevertheless, with fifteen or sixteen persons on board, ran on a rock and +bilged, in attempting to go ashore. All were happily saved by canoes from +the beach. There is a great abundance of pearl-shells to be found along +the shore, not valuable, but pretty. + +The currency here is gold dust, which passes from hand to hand as freely +as coin bearing the impress of a monarch or a republic. The governor's +weights for gold are small beans; a brown one being equivalent to a +dollar, and a red one to fifty cents. + +22.--Ashore; and spent most of the day in the fortress; one of the cool +places of Africa. Situated on a high, rocky point of land, with the sea on +three sides, every breeze that stirs, however lightly, is sure to be felt +on the terraces of the castle of Axim; and they bring coolness even at +noontide, being tempered by the spray constantly rising from the waves +that dash against the rocks below. + +There is great difficulty in procuring any supplies here, except wood and +water, and those at a high rate--seven dollars per cord for the former, +and one dollar for each hundred gallons of the latter; this, too, +including only the filling of the casks, and rolling them a short distance +on the beach. We found it impossible to purchase bullocks, sheep, or pigs, +and but very little poultry. The governor explained, that several +men-of-war had recently visited the settlement, and taken all the live +stock that could be spared, and that the war with Appollonia had cut off +the large supply formerly drawn from that country. The natives at this +place cannot furnish vessels with supplies, unless by the governor's +express permission; which, it is said, he does not grant, except upon +condition that they expend the proceeds in purchasing goods from him. One +of our stewards bought a roasting-pig, on shore; and the fact coming to +the ears of Governor Rhule, he notified the people that there would be a +palaver after our departure, for the discovery of the offender. The fine +for a transgression of this kind is two ounces of gold, or thirty-two +dollars. Let us imagine a village storekeeper, in our own country, +possessing supreme control over all the traffic of his neighbors--and we +shall have an idea of the relative position of the Governor of Axim and +the natives. Moreover, he is the general arbitrator, _ex officio_, and +expects that all awards shall be paid in cash, and that the successful +party spend the amount at his shop. + +We learned from Governor Rhule, that the Dutch government, some years ago, +had sent agents from El Mina to Comassee, the capital of Ashantee, for the +purchase of slaves, to be employed in the wars between the Dutch East +India settlements and the natives of that region. Three thousand were thus +purchased, at forty dollars each, and transported to Batavia. Perhaps no +circumstance, possible to be conceived, could do more to strip war of its +poetry, than such a fact; and yet it is in good keeping with the character +of a shrewd, commercial, business-like people, endowed with more common +sense than chivalry or sensibility. A British general, in order to carry +on an expedition against a French colony, once entered into a similar +speculation; but it was indignantly annulled by his government. In the +present case, the exportation of slaves, to fight the battles of their +masters, ceased only two or three years since, on the termination of the +war. These servile soldiers continued in Batavia, except a few wounded +ones, who have been sent back to El Mina, and now reside there on +pensions. + +Between Axim and Accra, both inclusive, there are six Dutch forts now +occupied and in repair, besides several which have been abandoned. I was +told that the annual cost of these establishments, to the home-government, +is not more than twenty thousand dollars; most of their expenses being +defrayed by duties, port-charges and other revenue accruing on the spot. + +24.--We left Axim yesterday, and anchored, last night, off the British +settlement at Dixcove. This morning, while heaving up the anchor, a boat +came off from the schooner Edward Burley of Bevaley, requesting +assistance, as her spars had been shivered by lightning. Soon after, the +commandant of the fort came on board, in a large and handsome canoe, +paddled by ten or twelve natives. The passengers sit in the bows, using +chairs or stools for seats, and protected from the surf and spray by the +high sides of the canoe. We dined on shore with the Governor, Mr. Swansey, +at his new residence, in the cool and refreshing atmosphere of a high +hill. The house is handsomely furnished in the English style. Mr. Swansey +has resided ten years on the coast, and was one of the persons examined +before the Committee of Parliament in reference to the state and affairs +of this region. There is a circumstance that connects this gentleman, +though but slightly, with poetic annals. Being at Cape Coast Castle at the +time of Mrs. McLean's death, he was one of the inquest that examined into +that melancholy event. His account confirms the general impression, that +her death was unpremeditated, and caused by an accidental over-dose of +prussic-acid, which she was in the habit of taking for spasms. She was +found alone, and nearly dead, behind the door of her apartment. Alas, poor +L.E.L.! It was certainly a strange and wild vicissitude of fate that made +it the duty of this respectable African merchant, in company with men of +similar fitness for the task, to "sit" upon the body--say, rather, on the +heart--of a creature so delicate, impassioned, and imaginative. + +The native houses here are quite large; three or four being two stories +high, with balconies, built of stone, in the Spanish style. They are +furnished with sofas, bedsteads, and pictures. One elderly native received +us in a calico surtout, and gave us ale. Another wore the native garb, +with the long cloth folded around him and resting upon his shoulder, like +a Roman toga. He offered champagne, Madeira, gin, brandy, ale, and cigars, +and pressed us to partake, with a dignified and elegant hospitality. This +was Mr. Brace. He had a clerk (of native blood, but dressed in cap, +jacket, and pantaloons, in the English style), who spoke good English, and +was very gentlemanly. It is interesting to meet the natives of Africa at +so advanced a stage of refinement, yet retaining somewhat of their +original habits and character, which is of course entirely lost in the +Liberian colonists. + +25.--Spent the morning on shore, at the government-house, reading the +English newspapers, and enjoying the coolness of the position and the +society of the intelligent governor. I was interested in observing an +alligator, inhabiting a fresh-water pond, on the edge of the town. A +chicken being held out to him as a lure, he came out of the pond and +snapped at it, making a loud, startling noise with his teeth. He had +entirely emerged from his native element, and remained some fifteen +minutes on land, during which time he snapped five or six times at the +fowl, which was as often drawn away by a string. At length, seizing his +prey, he plunged with it into the water, dived, swam across the pond, and +rose to the surface on the other side, where he masticated his breakfast, +at his leisure. Three alligators inhabit this pond, and being regarded as +"fetishes," or charmed and sacred creatures, are never injured by the +natives. On their part, the amphibious monsters seem to cherish amicable +feelings towards the human race, and allow children to bathe and sport in +the pond, without injury or molestation. The reptile that I saw was seven +or eight feet long, with formidable teeth and scales. + +Instead of the cassada and rice of the windward coast, corn is here the +principal food. After being pounded in their long mortars, it is ground +fine, by hand, between two stones like those used by painters, and is +mixed with palm-wine. + +28.--Having repaired the American schooner, and supplied her with one of +our spare topmasts, we are ready to sail to-day. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Dutch Settlement at El Mina--Appearance of the Town--Cape Coast +Castle--Burial-place of L. E. L.--An English Dinner--Festivity on +Ship-board--British, Dutch, and Danish Accra--Native Wives of Europeans--A +Royal Princess--An Armadillo--Sail for St. Thomas--Aspect of the Island. + + +_April_ 29.--At 10 A.M., anchored off the Dutch settlement of El Mina. +The Governor's lieutenant boarded us in a large canoe, paddled by about a +score of blacks. A salute was fired by our ship, and returned from the +castle with a degree of splendor quite unexpected; for a portion of the +native town, situated beneath the castle-walls, was set on fire by the wad +of a cannon, and twenty or thirty houses burnt to the ground. On landing, +we received a message, intimating that the Governor would be glad to see +us, and consequently called upon him. He is a man of about thirty, who +came out in 1832, as a clerk, and has risen to be Governor, with the +military rank of lieutenant-colonel. All the civil officers have military +titles, and wear the corresponding uniforms, for effect upon the natives; +but the Dutch evince their shrewdness by placing practical men of +business, rather than soldiers, at the head of their colonial +establishments. The only officer of the regular army is a lieutenant, +commanding the guard, of one hundred men. + +El Mina--the Mine--was built in 1482, or thereabouts, by the Portuguese, +whose early navigators have left tokens of their enterprise all along this +coast; although the achievements of those adventurous men do but +illustrate the nation's present supineness and decay. The settlement was +taken by the Dutch about a century after its foundation. The main fortress +is extensive, mounting ninety guns, and is capable of withstanding the +assault of a large force of regular troops. On an eminence, above the +town, is a second fort, apparently strong and in good repair; and two +small batteries are placed in commanding situations. + +The houses in the town are built of stone, and thatched. The streets are +narrow, crooked, and dirty, imparting to the place the air of intricate +bewilderment of some of the old European cities. Much of the trade is done +in the streets, and entirely by women, who sit with their merchandize on +the ground before them, and their gold-scales in their laps, waiting for +customers. It would perhaps add to our manliness of character, if at least +the minor departments of traffic were resigned to the weaker sex, among +ourselves. Crossing a small river, we came to another, and by far the best +section, of the town. There are long, wide streets, two of which, meeting +at an obtuse angle, form together an extent of nearly a mile. A double row +of trees throw their shade over the central walk of this Alameda. At +intervals are seated groups of women-traders. The wares of some are +deposited upon the ground, while pieces of cloth are displayed to +advantage upon lines, stretching from tree to tree. + +Before returning on board, we bespoke rings and chains of a native +goldsmith. The fashions of Africa are less evanescent than those of +Europe; and we may expect to see such ornaments as glittered on the bosom +of the Queen of Sheba. + +_May_ 2.--Sailed for Cape Coast Castle with the evening breeze. + +3.--At Cape Coast Castle. + +The landing is effected in large canoes, which convey passengers close to +the rocks, safely and without being drenched, although the surf dashes +fifty feet in height. There is a peculiar enjoyment in being raised, by an +irresistible power beneath you, upon the tops of the high rollers, and +then dropped into the profound hollow of the waves, as if to visit the +bottom of the ocean, at whatever depth it might be. We landed at the +castle-gate, and were ushered into the castle itself, where the commander +of the troops received us in his apartment. + +I took the first opportunity to steal away, to look at the burial-place of +L.E.L., who died here, after a residence of only two months, and within a +year after becoming the wife of Governor McLean. A small, white marble +tablet (inserted among the massive grey stones of the castle-wall, where +it faces the area of the fort) bears the following inscription:-- + + Hic jacet sepultum + Omne quod mortale fuit + LETITIAE ELISABETHAE McLEAN, + Quam, egregia ornatam indole, + Musis unice amatam; + Omniumque amores secum trahentem, + In ipso aetatis flore, + Mors immatura rapuit, + Die Octobris XV., A.D. MDCCCXXXVIII, + AEtat 36. + + * * * * * + + Quod spectas viator marmor, + Vanum heu doloris monumentum, + Conjux moereng erexit. + +The first thought that struck me was the inappropriateness of the spot for +a grave, and especially for the grave of a woman, and, most of all, a +woman of poetic temperament. In the open area of the fort, at some +distance from the castle-wall, the stone pavement had been removed in +several spots, and replaced with plain tiles. Here lie buried some of the +many British officers who have fallen victims to the deadly atmosphere of +this region; and among them rests L.E.L. Her grave is distinguishable by +the ten red tiles which cover it. Daily, the tropic sunshine blazes down +upon the spot. Daily, at the hour of parade, the peal of military music +resounds above her head, and the garrison marches and counter-marches +through the area of the fortress, nor shuns to tread upon the ten red +tiles, any more than upon the insensible stones of the pavement. It may be +well for the fallen commander to be buried at his post, and sleep where +the reveille and roll-call may be heard, and the tramp of his +fellow-soldiers echo and re-echo over him. All this is in unison with his +profession; the drum and trumpet are his perpetual requiem; the soldier's +honorable tread leaves no indignity upon the dead warrior's dust. But who +has a right to trample on a woman's breast? And what had L.E.L. to do with +warlike parade? And wherefore was she buried beneath this scorching +pavement, and not in the retired shadow of a garden, where seldom any +footstep would come stealing through the grass, and pause before her +tablet? There, her heart, while in one sense it decayed, would burst forth +afresh from the sod in a profusion of spontaneous flowers, such as her +living fancy lavished throughout the world. But now, no verdure nor +blossom will ever grow upon her grave. + +If a man may ever indulge in sentiment, it is over the ashes of a woman +whose poetry touched him in his early youth, while he yet cared anything +about either sentiment or poetry. Thus much, the reader will pardon. In +reference to Mrs. McLean, it may be added, that, subsequently to her +unhappy death, different rumors were afloat as to its cause, some of them +cruel to her own memory, others to the conduct of her husband. All these +reports appear to have been equally and entirely unfounded. It is well +established here, that her death was accidental. + +We dined at the castle to-day, and met the officers of a new English brig, +the Sea-Lark, among whom I was happy to recognize Lieutenant B----, an +acquaintance at Mahon, and a messmate of my friend C----. All these +officers are gallant fellows; and the commencement of our acquaintance +promises to place them and ourselves on the most cordial terms. The +dinner, like other English dinners, was rather noisy, but rendered highly +agreeable by the perfect good feeling that prevailed. At eight in the +evening, we returned on board, though strongly urged to sleep on shore by +the Governor and all our other friends. Such hospitality, though +unquestionably sincere, and kindly meant, it was far better to decline +than accept; for it was much the same as if Death, in the hearty tone of +good-fellowship, had pressed us to quaff another cup and spend the night +under his roof. Had we complied, it would probably have cost the lives of +more than one of us. Our captain took wisdom by the sad experience of the +English brig, which had lost her purser and master by just such a +festivity, prolonged to a late hour, and finished by the officers passing +the night on shore. The fever of the climate punished their imprudence. + +All vessels, except those of our own navy, allow their officers to sleep +on shore. They expect to be taken sick, but hope that the first attack of +fever will season them. Possibly, this is as wise a course as the British +officers could adopt; for, unlike ourselves, they are compelled by duty to +trust themselves in pestiferous situations, particularly in the ascent of +rivers, where there is scarcely a chance of escaping the deadly influence +of the atmosphere. They therefore confront the danger at once, and either +fall beneath it, or triumph over it. + +4.--Governor McLean, and all the officers of the castle and brig, dined on +board. The table was laid on the quarter-deck, and was the scene of much +mirth and friendly sentiment. In the evening, the theatre was open, with +highly respectable performances; after which came a supper; and the guests +took their leave at midnight, apparently well-pleased. + +6.--We sailed yesterday from Cape Coast Castle, and anchored to-day at +Accra, abreast of the British and Dutch forts. + +7.--Early this morning, we were surrounded with canoes, filled with +articles for sale. The most remarkable were black monkey-skins. There are +seven vessels at anchor here, including our own, and an English +war-steamer. Three of the seven, a barque, brig, and schooner, are from +the United States. Landing in a canoe, we were met on the beach by the +Governor and some of his gentlemen, and escorted to the castle. Thence we +went to the residence of Mr. Bannerman. He is the great man of Accra, +wealthy, liberally educated in England, and a gentleman, although with a +deep tinge of African blood in his cheeks. But when native blood is +associated with gentlemanly characteristics and liberal acquirements, it +becomes, instead of a stigma of dishonor, an additional title to the +respect of the world; since it implies that many obstacles have been +overcome, in order to place the man where we find him. This, however, is a +view not often taken by those who labor under the misfortune (for such it +is, if they so consider it) of having African blood in their veins. + +8.--A missionary, on his way to the Gaboon, and two American +merchant-captains, Hunt and Dayley, dined with us in the ward-room. The +latter are respectable men. The missionary, Mr. Burchell, seems much +depressed. He has had the fever at Cape Palmas, the effects of which still +linger in his constitution; while his companion, the Rev. Mr. Campbell, +although but recently from America, has already finished his earthly +labors, and gone to his reward. We left them only a month ago at Cape +Palmas, in perfect health. + +9.--My impressions of Accra are more favorable than of any other place +which I have yet seen in Africa. British and Dutch Accra are contiguous. +The forts of the two nations are within a mile of each other, situated on +ground which, at a little distance, appears not unlike the "bluffs" on our +western rivers; level upon the summit, with a precipitous descent, as if +the land had "caved in" from the action of the water. The country round is +level, and nearly free from woods as far as the rise of the hills, some +ten miles distant. About three miles to the eastward, Danish Accra shows +its neat town and well-kept fortress. I did not visit the place, but learn +that it is fully equal to its neighbors. Thus, within a circuit of three +or four miles, the traveller may perform no inconsiderable portion of the +grand tour, visiting the territory of three different countries of Europe, +and observing their military and civil institutions, their modes of +business, their national characteristics, and all assimilated by a general +modification, resulting from the climate and position in which they are +placed. There seems to be an exchange of courtesy and social kindness +among the three settlements. Seven or eight Europeans reside in the +different forts; so that, together with the captains of merchant-vessels +in the roads, there are tolerable resources of society. + +All the Europeans have native wives, who dress in a modest, but peculiar +style, of which the lady of Mr. Bannerman may give an example. She wore a +close-fitting muslin chemisette, buttoned to the throat with gold buttons, +a black silk tunic extending to the thigh, a colored cotton cloth, +fastened round the waist and falling as low as the ankles, black silk +stockings and prunella shoes. This lady is jet black, of pleasing +countenance, and is a princess of royal blood. In the last great battle +between the Europeans on the coast and the powerful King of Ashantee (the +same who defeated and slew Sir Charles McCarthy), the native army was put +to total rout by the aid of Congreve rockets. The king's camp, with most +of his women, fell into the hands of the victors. Three of his daughters +were appropriated by the English merchants, here and at Cape Coast, and +became their faithful and probably happy wives. One of the three fell to +the lot of Mr. Bannerman, and is the lady whom I have described. These +women are entrusted with all the property of their husbands, and are +sometimes left for months in sole charge, while the merchants visit +England. The acting governor of the British fort, Mr. Topp, departs for +that country to-morrow, leaving his native wife at the head of affairs. + +Mr. Bannerman is of Scottish blood by paternal descent, but African by the +mother's side, and English by education, and is a gentleman in manner and +feeling. He is the principal merchant here, and transacts a large business +with the natives, who come from two or three hundred miles in the +interior, and constantly crowd his yard. There they sit, in almost perfect +silence, receiving their goods, and making payment in gold-dust and ivory. +Towards us Mr. Bannerman showed himself most hospitable, yet in a +perfectly unostentatious manner. + +Accra is the land of plenty in Africa. Beef, mutton, turkeys and chickens +abound; and its supply of European necessaries and luxuries is unequalled. + +10.--We got under way, yesterday, for the "Islands," a term well +understood to mean those of St. Thomas and Prince's. Mr. Bushnell (one of +the two missionaries who proposed to take passage with us from Cape +Palmas, a month since) is now on board as a passenger to Prince's Island. +The other, Mr. Campbell, is dead. He was of a wealthy and influential +family in Kentucky, and is said to have been a young man of extraordinary +talent and promise. + +Yesterday we fired seventeen minute-guns, in obedience to an order from +the Navy-Department for the melancholy death of its chief, by the +explosion of the Princeton's gun. At twelve o'clock to-day, we fired +thirteen minute guns, as a tribute of respect to the memory of Commodore +Kennon, who fell a victim to the same disastrous accident. Alone on the +waters, months after the event, and five thousand miles from the scene of +his fate, we gave a sailor's requiem to a brave and accomplished officer. + +11.--Calm and sunny. Oh, how sunny!--and, alas, how calm! + +At Accra, I received a present of an armadillo, or ant-eater, who is +certainly a wonderful animal, and well worth studying, in the tedium of a +calm between the tropics. The body proper is but about nine inches, but, +when stretched at length, he covers an extent of two and a half feet, from +head to tail, and is wholly fortified with an impenetrable armor of bony +scales. On any occasion of alarm, it is his custom to thrust his long nose +between his hind-legs and roll his body and tail compactly together, so as +to appear like the half of a ball, presenting no vulnerable part to an +enemy. In this condition he affords an excellent example of a +self-involved philosopher, defending himself from the annoyance of the +world by a stoical crustiness, and seeking all his enjoyment within his +own centre. His muscular strength being great, and especially that of his +fore-legs, it is very difficult to unroll him. An attempt being made to +force his coil, he sticks his fore-claws into the scales of his head, and +holds on with a death-like grip. At night, however, or when all is quiet, +he vouchsafes to unbend himself, and waddles awkwardly about on his short +legs, in pursuit of cockroaches, weevils and spiders. [Footnote: The +above-described ant-eater is properly the long-tailed Manis, being an +African species of the Pangolin. His scaly armor will turn a musket-ball. +This animal, with a few other natural and artificial curiosities from +Africa, has been deposited in the National collection, attached to the +Patent Office at Washington.] 18.--After many days of calm or light +winds, a stiff and fair breeze, for twenty-four hours past, has been +driving us rapidly on our course. We hope to see St. Thomas to-morrow. + +19.--Land was discovered at daylight; but the wind had again failed us. It +being Sunday, divine service was performed, and well performed, by Mr. +Bushnell. He has gained the respect and regard of all on board, by his +amiable, guileless disposition, and unassuming piety. + +At noon the breeze freshened, and brought us within ten miles of the +island, by the close of day. St. Thomas is high, and possesses strong +features. One landmark is so singular as to strike every beholder most +forcibly. It is a rock, apparently not less than five hundred feet high, +and shaped like a light-house, towering into the air, about a third of the +distance from the southern extremity of the island. We are now within a +few miles of the equator; and sundry jokes, not unfamiliar to the nautical +Joe Miller, are passing through the ship, touching the appearance of "the +line." + +20.--A heavy tornado struck us last night. We were prepared for it, +however, with nothing on the ship but the topsail, clewed down, and the +fore-topmast-staysail. The last mentioned sail blew away, and the ship lay +over with her guns in the water. In five minutes, nevertheless, we were +going before the wind and away from shore. + +The appearance of the island is pleasant. A high volcanic peak, hills +covered with wood, and spots of ground reminding us of the lawns or +pasture-lands of our own country. On these tracts not a tree or a bush is +visible for acres together; but whether the soil was left naked by nature, +or rendered so by cultivation, is yet to be ascertained. A ruined chapel +on the top of a hill, a large mansion, apparently unoccupied, on the +shore, and a few huts among the cocoa-trees, are the only evidences that +men have ever been here. Several canoes have now come off to us, bringing +fruit and shells. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Excursion to St. Anne de Chaves--Mode of drying Coffee--Black +Priests--Madame Domingo's Hotel--Catering for the Mess--Man swallowed by a +Shark--Letters from Home--Fashionable Equipage--Arrival at the +Gaboon--King Glass and Louis Philippe--Mr. Griswold--Mr. and Mrs. +Wilson--Character of the Gaboon People--Symptoms of Illness. + + +_May_ 22.--I have just returned from an excursion to St. Anne de Chaves, +the capital of St. Thomas. Leaving the ship, yesterday, at 9 A.M., we +landed, but did not find the horses which had been ordered from the city. +Deeming it unadvisable to wait, three of the party started on foot, and +two in the "gig" (not the land-vehicle of that name), which was to proceed +on the same destination. After walking three or four miles along the +beach, we met two of the six horses expected. These served to mount a pair +of us, while the third, with the guide and boys, proceeded on foot; it +being arranged that we should travel in the old-fashioned mode of "ride +and tie." Most of the distance was across open land, without a tree or +shrub, but overgrown with coarse, high grass. The whole appearance was +that of a western prairie, but without the grandeur of its extent, or the +flowers that attract the traveller, when wearied with the immensity of +prospect. The soil, like that of the cocoa-nut groves, is a black, deep, +fertile loam. + +In two hours, we arrived at St. Anne de Chaves. The town is spread out +upon the circular shore of the bay, nearly half a mile in extent, and is +defended by a stone fort, situated on the extreme point of the cape. There +are three or four hundred houses, which, with few exceptions, are small, +and constructed of wood. A long stone building is appropriated as the +residence of the governor, and contains the public offices. The only +remarkable edifices besides, are a large wooden church, looking very like +a barn, and a smaller one of stone. The streets are unpaved, but kept +remarkably clean, and not without an especial reason. The great, and +almost only, article of commerce is coffee, which is kept in the houses, +and dried daily in the streets. As soon as the sun is up, therefore, +servants sweep the streets, as carefully as if it were a parlor-floor, and +bring out large quantities of coffee, which they spread upon the ground to +dry. At night, it is carried in. More than half the street, at the proper +season, is covered with coffee yet in the husk. The exports of this +article amount annually to about a million of pounds, producing from +seventy to eighty thousand dollars. The only whites residing on the +island, with one exception, are about sixty Portuguese; the number of +colored inhabitants is estimated at fifteen thousand. + +Black priests are plenty in the streets, walking about in bombazine robes, +with the crisp hair shaven from their crowns. The Jesuits invariably +followed hard upon the heels of the early Portuguese adventurers, in their +African discoveries; but I am not aware that their efforts to Catholicise +the natives have anywhere produced such permanent results, as in this +island. To be sure, the religion of the inhabitants seems to amount to +little more than the practice of a few external rites; for they have both +the appearance and character of dishonesty and treachery, and are said to +be addicted to all sorts of vice. So far as the black priests possess any +influence, however, it is believed to be used conscientiously, and with +excellent effect; nor, though provoked to smile at these queer specimens +of the cloth, could I indulge the impulse without being self-convicted of +narrowness and illiberally. St. Augustine, and other Fathers of the +church, if I have heard aright, were of the same sable hue as the priests +of St. Anne de Chaves. + +The currency of the island is wretched. Coppers are the sole coin in use, +in all domestic transactions, and pass at ten times their intrinsic value. +They are said to be introduced mainly by the American merchantmen, who do +most of the trade with the island. + +The foreign business is chiefly transacted by Mr. Lippitt, a Hamburgh +merchant, at whose house we were hospitably received. He set his best fare +before us; and some of the party not only ate at his table, but slept +beneath his roof. The others took lodgings at the house of Madam Domingo, +a fat black lady, whose first husband, a merchant of considerable +business, had left her a large mansion, several slaves, some children, and +other desirable property. A young, dandy-looking negro succeeded to the +vacant place in her house and heart, and now does the honors of the +establishment. The largest room had a singular aspect of familiarity to +our eyes; its walls being adorned with prints of American origin, among +which were portraits of all the Presidents of the United States, previous +to General Harrison. These, perhaps, were the gift of some +merchant-captain to his hospitable landlady; or, more probably, they had +been hung up in compliment to the national sensibilities of Madam +Domingo's most frequent guests. Tawdry mirrors and chandeliers completed +the decoration of the apartment. A supper of coffee and hard-boiled eggs, +beds harder than the eggs, and a bill equally difficult of digestion, +comprise all that is further to be said of the fashionable hotel of St. +Anne de Chaves. After a good breakfast with our Hamburgh friend, we all +embarked in the gig, and, spreading our canvass to the breeze, reached the +ship in an hour and ten minutes. + +23.--Ashore with the caterer of the mess, marketing for sea-stores; a +difficult task among a set of people who, though poor, care little about +making a profit by selling what they have. Many of them would not take +money, requiring in payment some article of clothing, especially shirts, +or, as the next grand desideratum, trowsers. By careful research among the +small plantations we were able to pick up a few goats, pigs, and fowls, +and came off with materials to keep the mess in good humor for at least +ten days. None but sea-faring men can appreciate the great truth, that +amiability is an affair of the stomach, and that the disposition depends +upon the dinner. + +We found the soil very fertile. Groves of cocoa-nuts cover many acres +together. Beneath the shade, coffee trees were in full bearing; and +bananas, plantains, and corn, flourished luxuriantly. The people are all +blacks, speak Portuguese, and--a circumstance that affords the voyager an +agreeable variety, after seeing so much nakedness--wear clothes. Their +habitations are scattered among the trees. It is usual to have one house +for rainy weather, for sleeping, and for storage, and another as a +kitchen, and for occupation during the day. The first is close, the other +has merely corner-posts, supporting a roof sufficiently light to make a +shade. + +Part of the day was spent in picking up shells upon the shore. +Occasionally, I unhoused a "soldier-crab," who had taken up free quarters +in some unoccupied cone, and became so delighted with its shelter as never +to move without dragging it at his heels along the sand. + +24.--6 P.M., a horrid accident has just occurred. As the gig was coming +alongside, under sail, the tiller broke, and the coxswain who was +steering, fell overboard. He was a good swimmer, and struck out for the +ship, not thirty yards distant, while the boat fell off rapidly to the +leeward. In less than half a minute, a monstrous shark rose to the +surface, seized the poor fellow by the body, and carried him instantly +under. Two hundred men were looking on, without the power to afford +assistance. We beheld the water stained with crimson for many yards +around--but the victim was seen no more! Once only, a few seconds after +his disappearance, the monster rose again to the surface, displaying a +length of well nigh twenty feet, and then his immense tail above the +water, as if in triumph and derision. It was like something preternatural; +and terribly powerful he must have been, to take under so easily, and +swallow, in a moment, one of the largest and most athletic men in the +ship. Poor Ned Martin! + +25.--Again visited the town, where we found an American brig, the Vintage +of Salem, Captain Frye. She is from the South Coast, homeward bound, with +a cargo of gum copal. The Captain had some letters for the squadron, which +were now eleven months old. My own gave an account of the President's +visit to Boston, the Bunker Hill Celebration, and other events of that +antediluvian date. Epistolary communication is, at the best, a kind of +humbug. What was new and true, when written, has become trite and false, +before it can be read. It assures of nothing--not even of the existence of +the writer; for his hand may have grown cold, since the characters which +it traced began their weary voyage in quest of us; and all of which we can +be absolutely certain is, that many unexpected events have happened, and +many expected ones have failed to happen, betwixt the sealing of the +letter and the unfolding it again. Until the ocean be converted into an +electric telegraph, through which intelligence will thrill in an instant, +there can be no real communication between the sailor and his far-off +friends. And yet, after all, how pleasant it is to write letters!--how +much pleasanter to receive them! I acknowledged the receipt of these musty +epistles, by the same vessel that conveyed them to me. + +I have seen but one equipage in the capital of St. Thomas, but that was a +sufficiently remarkable one; a small, three-wheeled vehicle, like a +velocipede, with a phaeton-top to it. Drawn by two negroes, and pushed by +three, it rolled briskly to the door of the church, and there deposited a +plump and youthful dame, as black as ebony. From the deference shown her +by the priests, I inferred that it was my good fortune to behold the +leading belle of St. Anne de Chaves. + +After dining with Mr. Lippitt, we returned to the boats, and got safely on +shipboard before dark. My impressions of St. Thomas and its delightful +climate are highly favorable. A visit to an island has generally more of +interest and amusement than one to a spot on the continent, because the +secluded position of the inhabitants imparts an originality and raciness +to their modes of life. + +27.--Got under way yesterday morning for the Gaboon. Today the wind has +been favorable, and we are now at anchor for the night, off the mouth of +the river, five miles from land. + +28.--At 4 P.M., anchored within three miles of the missionary +establishment. Mr. Bushnell took his leave, respected by us all, as a +pious, unpretending, sensible, and amiable man. + +29.--Ashore. We found our friends well, and glad to see us. They are +comfortably situated in large houses, made of bamboos, and thatched with +the bamboo-leaves sewed together. These present an airy, cool, and light +appearance, highly suitable to a tropical region, and yet are impervious +to rain. + +We visited the house of King Glass, where several of the chiefs assembled +to talk a palaver. They are apprehensive of difficulties with the French, +and wish the English and Americans to interpose. According to their story, +the commandant of a French fort, three miles distant, had attempted, a +short time ago, to procure a cession of their territory. This they +constantly refused, declaring their intention to keep the country open for +trade with all nations, and allow exclusive advantages to none. After +several trials, the commandant apparently relinquished his purpose. A +French merchant-captain now appeared, who ingratiated himself into the +favor of the simple King Glass, invited him to a supper, and made his +majesty and the head-man drunk. While in this condition, he procured the +signatures of the King and two or three chiefs to a paper, which he +declared to be merely a declaration of friendship towards the French, but +which proved to be a cession of certain rights of jurisdiction. Next +morning, the French fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honor of the +treaty between Louis Philippe and King Glass, and sent presents which the +natives refused to receive. They now apprehend a forcible seizure of their +territory by the French, and desire our interposition, as calculated to +prevent such a national calamity. Our captain, however, declined to +interfere, or to express any opinion in the premises, on the ground that +it was not his province to judge of such matters abroad, unless the +interests of Americans were involved. + +The missionaries have perhaps some agency in this movement. They see the +probability that the Catholic priests will follow them to the Gaboon, and +subvert their influence with the natives. + +31.--In the morning I visited Mr. Griswold's place, about two miles from +Baracca, the residence of Mr. Wilson. The former establishment was +commenced only eight months ago; and already there are two buildings +finished, and two more nearly so, all of bamboo. The ground is more +fertile than that occupied by Mr. Wilson, and has been brought thus +seasonably into a good state of cultivation. Mr. Griswold is a Vermonter, +a practical farmer, and an energetic man, and doubtless turns his +agricultural experience to good account, great as is the difference +between the bleak hills of New England, and this equatorial region. His +lady, an interesting woman, is just recovering from fever. + +After an agreeable visit, we returned to the ship, accompanied by Mr. and +Mrs. Griswold, and there found Mr. Wilson and lady, and Mr. James and his +daughter. They all dined and spent the day on board. Mr. Wilson is well +known in America by reputation, and is one of the most able and judicious +among the three hundred missionaries, whom the American Board sends forth +throughout the world. Here at Gaboon, he preaches to the natives in their +own language, which he represents as being very soft, and easy of +acquirement. The people frequent divine services with great regularity, +and are at least attentive listeners, if not edified by what they hear. +Mrs. Wilson is a lady of remarkable zeal and energy. Reared in luxury, in +a Southern city, she liberated her slaves, gave up a handsome fortune to +the uses of missions, and devoted herself to the same great cause, in that +region of the earth where her faith and fortitude were likely to be most +severely tried. It is now six years since she came to Africa; and she has +never faltered for a moment. Having had the good fortune, on a former +cruise, to make the acquaintance of Mrs. Wilson, at Cape Palmas, I was +happy to renew it here. I have seldom met with a person so well fitted to +adorn society, and never with one in whose high motives of action and +genuine piety I had more confidence. + +The natives at the Gaboon, to whom these excellent people are sacrificing +themselves, are said to present more favorable points of character than +those in most other parts of Africa. They are mild in their manners, +friendly to Europeans and Americans, and disposed to imitate them in dress +and customs. They own many slaves among themselves, but treat them with +singular gentleness, and never sell them to foreigners. They are very +indolent, and make no adequate improvement of their advantages for +agriculture and trade. Their country is excellent for grazing, and the +cattle of the best kind; but they take so little forethought as to sell +even the last cow, should a purchaser offer. Consequently, there are +hardly more than thirty cattle left in a tract of country capable, in its +present state, of sustaining a thousand. + +King Glass is an old man, much inclined to drink, yet more regular than +any of his subjects in attendance at church. Toko, a headman, is very +shrewd and intelligent, and highly spoken of by Mr. Wilson, in reference +to his moral qualities. Will Glass, nephew to the King, is blessed with a +couple of dozen wives, and seldom moves without a train of five or six of +them in attendance. He paid a visit to our ship in a full-dress English +uniform, said to have cost three hundred dollars. On the other side of the +river lives King Will, a great man, and with the reputation of a polished +gentleman. The slave-trade is carried on in this King's dominions; and, +while I write, a Spanish slaver lies at anchor off his town, waiting for +her human cargo. + +_June_ 1.--Got under way, and went down the river about three miles, +when, the wind failing, we anchored. At 3 P.M., we started again, and +stood out to sea. Mr. Wilson accompanied us to the mouth of the river, and +there left us, bearing back our hearty good wishes for his personal +prosperity and that of the mission. + +2.--At 12, meridian, we have made the run to the island of St. Thomas, and +are now about fifteen miles to the northward of it. + +3.--The wind is still sufficiently fresh and fair to enable us to make +seven knots westing; the great desideratum. Four months we have been +running away from our letters; and now we go to meet them. Blow, breezes, +blow, and waft us swiftly onward! + +4.--A continuance of favorable winds. I am not well to-day. Slight +headache, and heaviness of feeling--no great matter--but these are ominous +symptoms, on the coast of Africa. + +5.--One year since we left America; a year not without incident and +interest. We are still on the first parallel of north latitude, and going +nine. I am under the surgeon's hands, apprehending a fever, but hoping to +throw it off. + +6.--We have made two hundred and twenty miles within the last twenty-four +hours; and still the breeze does not slacken. Much better in health. Bless +the man who first invented Doctors! + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Recovery from Fever--Projected Independence of Liberia--Remarks on Climate +and Health--Peril from Breakers--African Arts--Departure for the Cape de +Verds--Man Overboard. + + +June 18.--A weary blank! Since my last date, I have had the coast fever, +caught by sleeping on shore, at St. Anne de Chaves, and am now just +recovering my physical force. My sickness was accompanied with little +bodily pain, but with great prostration of strength. Able medical advice, +and kind and judicious treatment, have brought me up a little; and, with +the help of God, I may again call myself well, in a week or two more. But +there is great danger of relapses, caution! + +We are now at Monrovia, having made the passage from the river Gaboon, +hitherward, in seven days and fourteen hours, from anchorage to +anchorage--an unprecedented run! The Macedonian has been here, and is +gone. + +19.--Still better this morning. The sky looks brighter than before; the +woods seem greener, and cast a lovelier shade; the surf breaks more +gracefully along the beach; and the natives, paddling their canoes around +the ship, look more human--more like brethren. Returning health gives a +more beautiful aspect to all things. It is almost worth while to have been +brought so low by sickness, for the sake of the freshness of body and +spirit, the renewed youth, the tenderer susceptibility to all good +impressions, which make my present consciousness so delightful. It is like +being new-created, and placed in a new world. Life, to the convalescent, +looks as fair and promising as if he had never tried it, and been weary of +it. + +20.--Still improving. The fine weather of yesterday and to-day invigorates +and cheers me. Lieutenant Governor Benedict and some friends are expected +on board, by special invitation. We pay much attention to the persons in +authority here; it being the policy of our government to befriend and +countenance the colonies. I hear that a serious effort is now in progress, +at this place, to declare Liberia independent of the Colonization Society, +and set up a republic. Lieutenant Governor Benedict and Mr. Teage are said +to be at the head of the movement. Both are men of talent. Mr. Teage +formerly edited the Liberia Herald, and preached in the Baptist Church, +where his services were most emphatically gratuitous; for he not only +ministered without a stipend, but supplied a place of worship--the sacred +edifice being his own private property. He is certainly one of the ablest, +if not the very ablest, writer and preacher in the colony. The project +above-mentioned seems to me an unwise one; but benefits, which do not now +appear, may possibly be obtained by sundering the relations between the +settlement and the parent society. Much is expected from England. That +nation, however, can never feel a maternal interest in the colony, nor +will do for it what the Society has all along done, and continues to do. + +21.--Still stronger. I am now able to resume my place at the mess-table. +But care is necessary to avoid a relapse. It is one of the worst features +of this disease, that it appears to continue in the system for many months +after the patient's recovery, and to renew its attacks upon the slightest +exposure. Most persons find it necessary to leave the coast, in order to +the re-establishment of their health. I am not the only convalescent on +board the ship. Mr. Ewal, a young Danish supercargo, is here for a few +days, to try the benefit of a change of air, and enjoy the attendance of a +regular physician. He has been on shore above a month, sick of the fever, +under the charge of Dr. Prout, a colored practitioner. Our captain pitied +his condition, invited him on board, and, with his uniform kindness, took +him into the cabin, where, in only three days, he has already improved +wonderfully. + +27.--A sunny day, after three or four dull and rainy ones. My health is +now so far restored, that I shall insert no more bulletins. I owe much to +the care of our surgeon, who is very able and attentive, and has seen much +yellow-fever practice, in the West Indies. The assistant-surgeon is also +an excellent and an untiring officer. My fever, like the other cases which +have happened on board, was of a bilious kind. All foreigners make +themselves liable to it, either in its milder or more aggravated forms, by +sleeping even a single night on shore; but, according to Dr. Hall, a +physician of great experience on the coast, health may be preserved for an +indefinite period, by the simple precaution of sleeping always on +ship-board, at a very moderate distance from land. This does not +altogether coincide with my own observations. It is true, that during +eight or ten months after the arrival of a ship upon the coast, the health +of her crew will probably continue good, if they neither sleep on shore +nor ascend the rivers. But, if exposed for a longer period to the +enervating influences of the unceasing heat, and the frequent penetrating +rains, it may reasonably be expected that any ship's company will be +broken down, even though not a single death may occur. In our own ship, we +have recently had many cases of fever, where the patients have neither +slept on shore, nor been exposed to the peculiar malaria of rivers. +Doubtless, however, the fever of the country, where all due precautions +have been used, will be much lighter on board, than on shore. But the +patients will be liable to frequent relapses, and a complete recovery will +be almost out of the question, without a change of climate. It is another +objection to the long continuance of ships on this station, that all +wounds or injuries, however slight, have a tendency to become obstinate +and dangerous sores, which incapacitate these afflicted from performing +any duty. + +Besides the coast fever (which, Dr. Hall remarks, he has never known an +emigrant completely to escape), there is an intermittent fever, against +which no acclimation will protect the colonist, any more than against the +bilious fever of America. The Rev. Mr. James, a colored missionary, told +me, that, for seven years, he had been accustomed to suffer attacks of +fever, once in every four or five weeks. + +The natives of this country are as healthy as any people under Heaven. A +benignant Providence has adapted the climate, soil, and productions, of +every part of the globe to the constitutions of those races of mankind +which it has placed there. Nor is Africa an exception. In spite of her +desolating wars, and the immense drain of her children through the slave +trade which for centuries has checked the increase of population, she is +still a populous country. The aboriginal natives, unless killed through +superstition or cruelty, survive to an almost patriarchal longevity. The +colored people of America, or any other part of the world, may be regarded +as borrowed from Africa, and inheriting a natural adaptation to her soil +and climate. Such emigrants, therefore, may be expected to suffer less +than the whites, in the process of acclimation, and may, in due time, find +their new residence more genial to their constitutions, than those which +they have quitted. At all events, their children will probably flourish +here, and attain a fulness of physical, and perhaps moral and intellectual +perfection, which the colored race has fallen short of, in other regions. + +As the country becomes cleared and cultivated, the mortality of the +emigrants decreases. It is asserted to be one-third less, at this period, +than it was ten years ago. The statistics of Cape Palmas show the +population to be on the increase, independently of immigration. Dr. Hall +affirmed (but, I should imagine, with unusual latitude of expression) +that, in the sickliest season ever known at Cape Palmas, the rate of +mortality was lower than that of the free colored population in Baltimore, +in an ordinary year. In another generation, this may no doubt be said with +perfect accuracy. + +28.--Last night, the Porpoise came in, and anchored inside of us. As we +lay unusually near the shore, and as the wind was rising, with a heavy +swell, the brig found herself, this morning, in a dangerous position. She +sent us a boat, to say that she was dragging her anchor, and to ask for a +hawser. This was immediately supplied; but, before we could give her the +end of it, she had drifted into the breakers. She hoisted her colors, +union down, and was momentarily expected to strike. At this instant, a +tremendous roller swamped one of our boats, and left the men swimming for +their lives. The other boats went to their assistance, and providentially +succeeded in rescuing them all. Meantime, the brig made sail, and, by the +help of our hawser, was able to keep her wind, and got out to sea, leaving +both her anchors behind. + +Soon after the Porpoise was saved, we found ourselves likewise in equal +peril. The breakers began to whiten about the ship. The wind was not +violent, but the swell was terrible; and the long rollers filled the bay, +breaking in forty feet of water, and covering the sea with foam. Our +anchors held tolerably well; but we dragged slowly, until, from seven +fathoms, we had shoaled our water to four and a half. A council of the +officers being called, it was determined to get under way. A hawser and +stream-anchor being sent out, in order to bring the ship's head in the +proper direction for making sail, the cables were slipped. It was a moment +of intense interest; for, had the rollers or the wind inclined the ship +from her proper course, we must inevitably have been lost; but she stood +out beautifully, and soon left all peril astern. + +There were still three merchant-vessels at anchor; the American barque +Reaper, a Bremen brig, and a Hamburg schooner. While we had our own danger +to encounter, we thought the less of our fellow-sufferers; but, after our +escape, it was painful to think of leaving them in jeopardy. To the +American barque (which lay inshore of us, with her colors union down) we +sent a boat, with sixteen Kroomen, by whose assistance she was saved. The +Bremen brig had her colors at half-mast, appealing to us for aid. She was +nearer to the shore than the other vessels, and lay in the midst of the +breakers, which frequently covered her from stem to stern. Her escape +seemed impossible; and her cargo, valued at thirty thousand dollars, would +have been considered a dear purchase at a thirtieth of that sum. We gave +her all the help in our power, and not without effect; but her salvation, +under Providence, was owing to a strong tide, which was setting out of the +river, and counteracted the influence of wind and swell. Finally, we had +the satisfaction to see all the vessels, one after another, come off safe. + +During this scene, there was great commotion on shore, the people +evidently expecting one or all of us to be lost. When the Porpoise got +off, the Kroomen on the beach raised a great shout of joy. + +29.--There is a very heavy sea this morning, with no prospect of its +immediately subsiding. The Kroomen say that it will last four days from +its commencement. It must have been terrific in the bay, last night. All +the vessels are in sight, keeping off till the swell abates. We have left +two boats behind us, and two anchors, besides the stream-anchor. There has +been nothing like this storm, since our arrival on the coast. + +_July_ 2.--Again at anchor. + +As we shall soon have done with Liberia, I must not forget to insert, +among the motley records of this journal, some account of its ants. The +immense number of these insects, which infest every part of the land, is a +remarkable provision in the economy of Africa, as well as of other +tropical countries. Though very destructive to houses, fences, and other +articles of value, their ravages are far more than repaid by the benefits +bestowed; for they act as scavengers in removing the great quantity of +decaying vegetable matter, which would otherwise make the atmosphere +intolerable. They perform their office both within doors and without. +Frequently, the "drivers," as they are called, enter houses in myriads, +and, penetrating to the minutest recesses, destroy everything that their +omnivorous appetite can render eatable. Whatever has the principle of +decay in it, is got rid of at once. All vermin meet their fate from these +destroyers. Food, clothing, necessaries, superfluities, mere trash, and +valuable property, are alike in their regard, and equally acceptable to +their digestive powers. They would devour this journal with as little +compunction as so much blank paper--and a sermon as readily as the +journal--nor would either meal lie heavy on their stomachs. They float on +your coffee, and crawl about your plate, and accompany the victuals to +your mouth. + +The ants have a Queen, whom the colonists call Bugga-Bug. Her subjects are +divided into three classes; the Laborers, who do nothing but work--the +Soldiers, who do nothing but fight--and the Gentry, who neither work nor +fight, but spend their lives in the pleasant duty of continuing their +species. The habitations of these insects, as specimens of mechanical +ingenuity, are far superior to the houses of the natives, and are really +the finest works of architecture to be met with on the African coast. In +height, these edifices vary from four to fifteen or twenty feet, and are +sometimes ten or twelve feet in diameter at the base. They contain +apartments for magazines, for nurseries, and for all other domestic, +social, and public purposes, communicating with one another, and with the +exterior, by innumerable galleries and passages. The clay, which forms the +material of the buildings, is rendered very compact, by a glutinous +matter, mixed with earth; and all the passages, many of which extend great +distances under ground, are plastered with the same kind of stucco. +Captain Tuckey, in his expedition to the river Zaire, discovered ant-hills +composed of similar materials to the above, but which, in shape, precisely +resembled gigantic toad-stools, as high as a one-story house. In this part +of Africa, they have the form of a mound. At the present day, when the +community-principle is attracting so much attention, it would seem to be +seriously worth while for the Fourierites to observe both the social +economy and the modes of architecture of these African ants. Providence +may, if it see fit, make the instincts of the lower orders of creation a +medium of divine revelations to the human race: and, at all events, the +aforesaid Fourierites might stumble upon hints, in an ant-hill, for the +convenient arrangement of those edifices, which, if I mistake not, they +have christened Phalanxteries. + +8.--At 11 A.M., got under way for the Cape de Verds. + +10.--Calm in the morning, and predictions of a long passage. At noon, +sprung up a ten-knot breeze; and are sanguine of making a short run. In +the evening, at the tea-table, we were talking of the delights of +Saratoga, at this season, and contrasting the condition of the fortunate +visitors to that fashionable resort, with that of the sallow, debilitated, +discontented cruisers on the African station. In the midst of the +conversation, the cry of "man overboard," brought us all on deck with a +rush. There was not much sea, though we were going seven knots. The man +kept his head well above water, and swam steadily toward the life-buoy, +which floated at a short distance from him--his only hope--while the wide +Atlantic was yawning around him, eager for his destruction. We watched him +anxiously, until he seized it, and then thought of sharks. We were too far +at sea, however, for many of these monsters to be in attendance. In a few +moments a boat picked up man and buoy, and the ship was on her course +again. + +21.--Anchored at Porto Praya. + +The season of journalizing, to any good purpose, is over. Scenes and +objects in this region have been so often presented to my eyes, that they +now fail to make the vivid impressions which could alone enable me (were +that ever possible) to weave them into a lively narrative of my +adventures. My entries therefore, for the rest of the cruise, are likely +to be "few, and far between." + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +Glimpses of the bottom of the Sea--The Gar-Fish--The Booby and the +Mullet--Improvement of Liberia--Its Prospects--Higher social position of +its Inhabitants--Intercourse between the White and Colored Races--A Night +on Shore--Farewell to Liberia.--Reminiscence of Robinson Crusoe. + + +_September_ 1.--At Porto Grande. + +To-day, as for many previous days, the water has been beautifully clear. +The massive anchor and the links of the chain-cable, which lay along the +bottom, were distinctly visible upon the sand, full fifty feet below. +Hundreds of fish--the grouper, the red snapper, the noble baracouta, the +mullet, and many others, unknown to northern seas--played round the ship, +occasionally rising to seize some floating food, that perchance had been +thrown overboard. With my waking eye, I beheld the bottom of the sea as +plainly as Clarence saw it in his dream; although, indeed, here were few +of the splendid and terrible images that were revealed to him:-- + + "A thousand fearful wrecks; + A thousand men that fishes gnawed upon; + Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl, + Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels." + +Nevertheless, it was a sight that seemed to admit me deeper into the +liquid element than I had ever been before. Now and then came the long, +slender gar-fish, and, with his sword-like beak, struck some unhappy fish +which tempted his voracity. I watched the manoeuvres of the destroyer and +his victims, with no little interest. The fish (which, in the two +instances particularly observed, was the mullet) came instantly to the +surface, on being struck, and sprang far out of water. He swam on his side +with a circular motion, keeping his head above the surface. From time to +time he leaped into the air, spasmodically, and in a fit of painful agony; +for it could not be from alarm, as the foe was nowhere visible. Gradually, +his strength failed, and his efforts became feebler, and still more +feeble. + +The fates of the two mullets were different. One received a second blow +from the inexorable gar-fish, which, for a moment, increased his agony and +his exertions. He then lay motionless upon the surface, at rest from all +trouble. The conqueror came a third time, seized his prey, and swam +swiftly out of sight. + +The other mullet, which rose half an hour afterwards, swam closer to the +ship than his predecessor, and received no second blow. While the poor +fellow was yet in the death-struggle, came two great sable birds, with +bills, wings, and legs, like those of the heron. Flapping their dark wings +in the air, they circled round, and repeatedly swooped almost upon the +dying fish. But he was not doomed to be their victim. Presently, with his +brown back, white breast, and pink bill, came flapping along a booby, and, +without a moment's hesitation, stooped upon the mullet, and appeared to +swallow him in the twinkling of an eye. The fish was at least six inches +in length, and the bird not twice as much. How so liberal a morsel could +be so quickly disposed of, was a marvel to a dozen idlers, who had been +curiously observing this game of life and death to one party, and a dinner +to the other. Certainly, the booby carried off the fish. Borne down by the +weight of his spoil, the feathered gormandizer alighted on the +water--rested himself for a moment--rose again, and re-alighted--and in +this manner, with many such intervals of repose, made his way to the +shore. + +25.--At 1 P.M., sailed for the Coast, in company with the Truxton. + +26.--Anchored off Cape Mesurado. + +It is now fourteen months since our ship first visited Monrovia. Within +that period there has been a very perceptible improvement in its +condition. The houses are in better repair; the gardens under superior +cultivation. There is an abundant supply of cattle, which have been +purchased from the natives. More merchant-vessels now make this their +port, bringing goods hither, and creating a market for the commodities, +live stock, and vegetables, of the colonists. An increased amount of money +is in circulation; and the inhabitants find that they can dispose of the +products of their industry for something better than the cloth and +tobacco, which they were formerly obliged to take in payment. The squadron +of United States men-of-war, if it do no other good, will at least have an +essential share in promoting the prosperity of Liberia. + +After having seen much, and reflected upon the subject even to weariness, +I write down my opinion, that Liberia is firmly planted, and is destined +to increase and prosper. This it will do, though all further support from +the United States be discontinued. A large part of the present population, +it is true, are ignorant, and incompetent to place a just estimate on +freedom, or even to comprehend what freedom really is. But they are +generally improving in this respect; and there is already a sufficient +intermixture of intelligent, enterprising and sagacious men, to give the +proper tone to the colony, and insure its ultimate success. The great +hope, however, is in the generation that will follow these original +emigrants. Education is universally diffused among the children; and its +advantages, now beginning to be very manifest, will, in a few years, place +the destinies of this great enterprise in the hands of men born and bred +in Africa. Then, and not till then, will the experiment of African +colonization, and of the ability of the colonists for self-support and +self-government, have been fairly tried. My belief is firm in a favorable +result. + +Meantime, it would be wiser in the Colonization Society, and its more +zealous members, to moderate their tone, and speak less strongly as to the +advantages held out by Liberia. Unquestionably, it is a better country +than America, for the colored race. But they will find it very far from a +paradise. Men, who expect to become independent and respectable, can only +achieve their object here on the same terms as everywhere else. They must +cultivate their minds, be willing to exert themselves, and not look for a +too easy or too rapid rise of fortune. One thing is certain. People of +color have here their fair position in the comparative scale of mankind. +The white man, who visits Liberia, be he of what rank he may, and however +imbued with the prejudice of hue, associates with the colonists on terms +of equality. This would be impossible (speaking not of individuals, but of +the general intercourse between the two races) in the United States. The +colonist feels his advantage in this respect, and reckons it of greater +weight in the balance than all the hardships to which he is obliged to +submit, in an unwonted climate and a strange country. He is redeemed from +ages of degradation, and rises to the erect stature of humanity. On this +soil, sun-parched though it be, he gives the laws; and the white man must +obey them. In this point of view--as restoring to him his long-lost +birthright of equality--Liberia may indeed be called the black man's +paradise. + +It is difficult to lay too great stress on the above consideration. When +the white man sets his foot on the shore of Africa, he finds it necessary +to throw off his former prejudices. For my own part, I have dined at the +tables of many colored men in Liberia, have entertained them on shipboard, +worshipped with them at church; walked, rode, and associated with them, as +equal with equal, if not as friend with friend. Were I to meet those men +in my own town, and among my own relatives, I would treat them kindly and +hospitably, as they have treated me. My position would give me confidence +to do so. But, in another city, where I might be known to few, should I +follow the dictates of my head and heart, and there treat these colored +men as brethren and equals, it would imply the exercise of greater moral +courage than I have ever been conscious of possessing. This is sad; but it +shows forcibly what the colored race have to struggle against in America, +and how vast an advantage is gained by removing them to another soil. + +10.--Yesterday, Governor Roberts gave our officers a farewell dinner. We +left the table early, made our adieus, and were on our way down the river +half an hour before sunset. The pilot and some of our friends endeavored +to dissuade us from attempting the passage of the bar, pronouncing the +surf too dangerous. Some Kroomen also discouraged us, saying that the bar +was "too saucy." With the fever behind us, and the wild breakers and +sharks before, it was matter of doubt what course to pursue. Anxiety to be +on our way homeward settled the difficulty; and we left the wharf, to +make, at least, a trial. A trial, and nothing more, it proved; for, as we +neared the bar, it became evident that there would be great rashness in +attempting to cross. The surf came in heavily, and with the noise of +thunder, and the gigantic rollers broke into foam, across the whole width +of the bar. Darkness had fallen around us, with the sudden transition of a +tropical climate. There was no open space visible amid the foam; and, +while the men lay on their oars, we looked anxiously for the clear water, +which marks the channel to the sea. Many minutes were thus spent, looking +with all our eyes. + +A council of war was held between the captain and myself, in which we +discussed the probabilities of being swamped and eaten. Having once fairly +started, we did not like to turn back, especially as it would be necessary +to go through the insipid ceremony of repeating our good-bye. Then, too, +the image of fever rose behind us. By the prohibition of the Commodore, +and the dictates of prudence, not an officer had slept on shore on any +part of the mainland of the African coast, during the whole period of our +cruise; and now, at the very last moment, to be compelled to incur the +risk, was almost beyond patience. On the other hand, there was the foaming +surf, and the ravenous sharks, in whose maws there was an imminent +probability of our finding accommodation, should we venture onward. It is +a fate proper enough for a sailor, but which he may be excused for +avoiding as long as possible. Our council ended, therefore, with a +determination to turn back, and trust to the tender mercies of the fever. + +It was a splendid moonlight night; one of those nights on which the +natives deem it impossible to catch fish, saying that the sky has too many +eyes, and that the fish will shun the bait. The frogs kept up an incessant +chorus, reminding me of the summer evening melodies of my native land, yet +as distinct from those as are the human languages of the two countries. I +have observed that the notes of frogs are different in different parts of +the world. On the banks of the beautiful Arno, it is like the squalling of +a cat. Here, it is an exact imitation of the complaining note of young +turkeys. Unweariedly, these minstrels made music in our ears, until dawn +gleamed in the East, and ushered in a bright and glorious morning. The +birds now took the place of the frogs in nature's orchestra, and cooed, +peeped, chattered, screamed, whistled, and sang, according to their +various tastes and abilities. The trees were very green, and the dew-drops +wonderfully brilliant; and, amid the cheerful influence of sun-rise, it +was difficult to believe that we had incurred any deadly mischief, by our +night's rest on the shore of Africa. + +At a later period, I add, that no bad result ensued, either to the +captain, myself, or the eight seamen, who were detained ashore on the +above occasion. This good fortune may be attributable to the care with +which we guarded ourselves from the night-air and the damps; and besides, +we left the coast immediately, and, after a brief visit to Sierra Leone, +pursued our homeward course to America. On another occasion, a lieutenant, +a surgeon, and six men, belonging to our squadron, were detained on shore +at Cape Mount, all night, after being capsized and wet. What were their +precautions, I am unable to say; but, all the officers and men were +attacked by fever, more or less severely, and in one instance fatally. +[Footnote: While revising these sheets for the press, the writer hears of +an example which may show the necessity of the health-regulations imposed +on the American squadron. The U.S. ship Preble ascended the River Gambia +to the English settlement of Bathurst, a distance of fifteen miles, to +protect the European residents against an apprehended attack of the +natives. Although the ship remained but one or two days, yet, in that +brief space, about a hundred cases of fever occurred on board, proving +fatal to the master, a midshipman, and seventeen of the crew.] And now we +leave Liberia behind us, with our best wishes for its prosperity, but with +no very anxious desire to breathe its fever-laden atmosphere again. There +is enough of interest on the African station; but life blazes quickly +away, beneath the glare of that torrid sun; and one year of that climate +is equivalent to half a dozen of a more temperate one, in its effect upon +the constitution. The voyager returns, with his sallow visage, and +emaciated form, and enervated powers, to find his contemporaries younger +than himself--to realize that he has taken two or three strides for their +one, towards the irrevocable bourne; and has abridged, by so much, the +season in which life is worth having for what may be accomplished, or for +any zest that may be found in it. + +Before quitting the coast, I must not forget that our cruising-ground has +a classical claim upon the imagination, as being the very same over which +Robinson Crusoe made two or three of his voyages. That famous navigator +sailed all along the African shore, between Cape de Verd and the Equator, +trading for ivory, for gold dust, and especially for slaves, with as +little compunction as Pedro Blanco himself. It is remarkable that De Foe, +a man of most severe and delicate conscience, should have made his hero a +slave-dealer, and should display a perfect insensibility to anything +culpable in the traffic. Morality has taken a great step in advance, since +that day; or, at least, it has thrown a strong light on one spot, with +perhaps a corresponding shadow on some other. The next age may shift the +illumination, and show us sins as great as that of the slave-trade, but +which now enter into the daily practice of men claiming to be just and +wise. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + +Sierra Leone--Sources of its Population--Appearance of the Town and +surrounding Country--Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes--Treatment of +liberated Slaves--Police of Sierra Leone--Agencies for Emigration to the +West Indies--Colored Refugees from the United States--Unhealthiness of +Sierra Leone--Dr. Fergusson--Splendid Church--Melancholy Fate of a Queen's +Chaplain--Currency--Probable Ruin of the Colony. + +_October_ 15.--We arrived off the point of Sierra Leone, last night, and +were piloted up to the town, this morning. + +This is one of the most important and interesting places on the coast of +Africa. It was founded in 1787, chiefly through the benevolent agency of +Mr. Granville Sharp, as a place of refuge for a considerable number of +colored persons, who had left their masters, and were destitute and +unsheltered in the streets of London. Five years later, the population of +the colony was recruited by above a thousand slaves, who had fled from the +United States to Nova Scotia, during the American revolution. Again, in +1800, there was an addition of more than five hundred maroons, or outlawed +negroes, from Jamaica. And finally, since 1807, Sierra Leone has been the +receptacle for the great numbers of native Africans liberated from +slave-ships, on their capture by British cruisers. Pensioners, with their +families, from the black regiments in the West Indies, have likewise been +settled here. The population is now estimated at about forty-five +thousand; a much smaller amount, probably, than the aggregate of all the +emigrants who have been brought hither. The colony has failed to prosper, +but not through any lack of effort on the part of England. It is the +point, of all others on the African coast, where British energy, capital, +and life, have been most profusely expended. + +The aspect of the Cape, as you approach it from the sea, is very +favorable. You discern cultivated hills, the white mansions of the +wealthy, and thatched cottages, neat and apparently comfortable, abodes of +the poorer class. Over a space of several miles, the country appears to be +in a high state of improvement. One large village is laid out with the +regularity of Philadelphia, consisting of seven parallel streets, kept +free from grass, with thatched huts on either side, around which are small +plots of ground, full of bananas and plantain trees. The town itself is a +scene of far greater activity than any other settlement on the West Coast. +Great numbers of negroes, of various tribes and marks, are to be seen +there. So mixed, indeed, is the colored population, that there is little +sympathy or sense of fellowship among them. The Mandingoes seem to be the +most numerous, and are the most remarkable in personal appearance. Almost +without exception, they are very tall figures, and wear white robes, and +high caps without visors. + +These Mandingoes hold the faith of Mahomet, and at the time of our +arrival, were celebrating the feast of the Ramazan. Several hundreds of +them paraded through the streets in a confused mass, occasionally stopping +before some gentleman's house, and enacting sundry mummeries, in +consideration of which they expected to receive a present. In front of a +house where I happened to be, the whole body were ranged in order; and two +of them, one armed with a gun, and the other with a bow and arrow, ran +from end to end of the line, crouching down and pretending to be on the +watch against an enemy. At intervals, their companions, or a portion of +them, raised a cry, like those which one hears in the mosques of Asia. The +above seemed to compose nearly all the ceremony; and our liberality was in +proportion to the entertainment, consisting merely of a handful of +coppers, scattered broadcast among the multitude. When this magnificent +guerdon was thus proffered to their acceptance, they forthwith forgot +their mummery, and joined in a general scramble. The king, or chief, now +stept forward, and protested energetically against this mode of +distribution; it being customary to consign all the presents to him, to be +disposed of according to his better judgment. However, the mob picked up +the coppers, and showed themselves indifferently well contented. + +When cargoes of slaves are brought to Sierra Leone, they are placed in a +receptacle called the Queen's Yard, where they remain until the +constituted authorities have passed judgment on the ship. This seldom +requires more than a week. The liberated slaves are then apprenticed for +five, seven, or nine years; the Government requiring one pound ten +shillings sterling from the person who takes them. Unless applicants come +forward, these victims of British philanthropy are turned adrift, to be +supported as they may, or, unless Providence take all the better care of +them, to starve. For the sick, however, there is admittance to the +Government Hospital; and the countrymen of the new-comers, belonging to +the same tribe, lend them such aid as is in their power. Food, consisting +principally of rice, cassadas, and plantains, or bananas, is extremely +cheap; insomuch that a penny a day will supply a man with enough to eat. +The market is plentifully supplied with meats, fowls, and vegetables, and +likewise with other articles, which may be tidbits to an African stomach, +but are not to be met with in our bills of fare. For instance, among other +such delicacies, I saw several rats, each transfixed with a wooden skewer, +and some large bats, looking as dry as if they had given up the ghost a +month ago. Supporting themselves on food of this kind, it is not to be +wondered at, that the working-classes find it possible to live at a very +low rate of labor. The liberated slaves receive from four to six pence, +and the Kroomen nine pence per diem; these wages constituting their sole +support. + +As may be supposed, so heterogeneous and wild a population as that of +Sierra Leone requires the supervision of a strict and energetic police. +Accordingly, the peace is preserved, and crimes prevented, by a whole army +of constables, who, in a cheap uniform of blue cotton, with a white badge +on the arm, and a short club as their baton of office, patrol the streets, +day and night. Their number cannot be less than two or three hundred. + +There is a desire, in some quarters, to destroy the colony of Sierra +Leone; and one of the means for accomplishing this end is, of procuring +the emigration of the colored colonists to the West Indies. For this +purpose there are three different agencies. One has over its +door:--"British Guiana Emigration Office;" another is for Trinidad; and a +third for Jamaica. + +Great promises are made to persons proposing to emigrate; such as a free +passage to the West Indies, wages of from seventy-five cents to a dollar +per day, and permission to return when they choose. Very few, however, of +those who have been long resident here, can be induced to avail themselves +of these offers, small as are the earnings of labor at Sierra Leone. They +believe that the stipulations are not observed; that emigrants, on their +arrival in the West Indies, will be called upon to pay their passages, and +that it will not be at their option to return. In short, they suspect +emigration to be only a more plausible name for the slave-trade. The +Kroomen are the class most sought for as emigrants, although negroes of +any tribe are greedily received. Even the Africans just re-captured are +sent off, as the authorities are pleased to term it, "voluntarily." The +last emigration, consisting of somewhat less than two hundred and fifty +persons, included seventy-six slaves, almost that instant landed from a +prize. A respectable merchant assured me, that these men were not +permitted to communicate with their countrymen, but were hurried off to +the vessel, without knowing whither they were bound. The acting governor, +Dr. Fergusson, denied the truth of this, although he admitted that the +seventy-six liberated slaves did emigrate to the West Indies, very soon +after landing from the prize. + +It is to be remarked, that the white inhabitants of Sierra Leone, as well +as the colored people, entertain very unfavorable notions of this scheme +of procuring laborers for the West Indies. The best defence of it, +perhaps, is, that neither blacks nor whites can flourish in this +settlement, and that a transportation from its poor soil and sickly +climate, to any other region, may probably be for the better. But, +undeniably, the British government is less scrupulous as to the methods of +carrying out its philanthropic projects, than most other nations in their +schemes of self-aggrandizement. + +In Freetown, which is the residence of all the Europeans, are to be found +what remains of the emigrants from Nova Scotia, and their descendants. The +whole number transported hither at several periods, was about fifteen +hundred. Not more than seventy or eighty of these people, or their +progeny, now survive upon the spot. Our pilot is one of the number. He +affirms, that his countrymen were promised fifty acres of land, each, in +Sierra Leone, on condition of relinquishing the land already in their +possession in Nova Scotia. With this understanding they emigrated to +Africa; but, in more than half a century which has since elapsed, the +government has never found it convenient to fulfil its obligations. Only +two or three acres have been assigned to each individual. Meantime, the +body of emigrants has dwindled away, until the standard six feet of earth +by two, the natural inheritance of every human being, has sufficed for +almost all of them, as well as fifty, or five thousand acres could have +done. These emigrants were the colonial slaves, who were taken or ran away +from the United States, during the Revolutionary war. Considered +physically and statistically, their movement was anything but an +advantageous one. It would be matter of curious speculation to inquire +into the relative proportions now alive, of slaves who remained upon our +southern soil, and of these freed men, together with the amount of their +posterity. Not, of course, that it has been in any degree a fair +experiment as to the result of emancipating and colonizing slaves. The +trial of that experiment has been left to America; and it has been +commenced in a manner that might induce England to mistrust her own +beneficence, when she contrasts Liberia with Sierra Leone. + +This settlement has been known as "The White Man's Grave;" and it is +certainly a beautiful spot for a grave--as lovely as one of those +ornamental cemeteries, now so fashionable, and on which so much of our +taste is lavished; as if only the dead had leisure for the enjoyment of +shrubbery and sculpture. Sierra Leone, however, is by no means the fatal +spot that it once was. Formerly, a governor was expected to die every +year, although a few held the reins of power, and enjoyed the pomp and +dignity of office, twice or even thrice that period. Brave and excellent +men have accepted the station, on this fearful tenure. Among them was +Colonel Denham, the adventurous traveller in Africa. Very great mortality +likewise prevailed among the merchants, military and civil officers, and +soldiers. This was partly owing to the recklessness of their mode of life. +The rich were in the habit of giving champagne-breakfasts at noon, and +heavy and luxurious suppers at night. The continual neighborhood and near +prospect of death made them gaily desperate; so that they grew familiar +with him, and regarded him almost as a boon companion. And, besides, in a +sickly climate, each individual is confident of his own personal immunity +against the disease which, he is ready to allow, may be fatal to those +around him. I have noticed this absurd hallucination in others, and been +conscious of it in myself. In battle it is the same--the bullet is +expected to strike any and every breast, except one's own--and here, +perhaps, is the great secret of courage. + +Latterly, the Europeans at Sierra Leone practise a more temperate life. +Another circumstance that has conduced to render the settlement less +insalubrious, is the clearing of lands in the vicinity, and conversion of +the rank jungle into cultivated fields. The good effect of this change +will be readily appreciated by those who have noticed the improved health +of our Western settlers, as the forest falls before the axe; or who have +seen the difference between the inhabitants of old and new lands, in any +country. + +It is said, by the old residents here, that they do not find it very +sickly, except once in seven years, when an epidemic rages, and carries +off many settlers. This has happened regularly since 1823, until the +present year, when, in the proper order of things, the angel of death +should have re-appeared. Several persons provided for their safety by +quitting the place; and others made their arrangement to retreat, on the +first symptoms of danger. But the year, thus far, seems to have been +distinguished by no peculiar mortality. + +Life, in a climate like this, must generally be much more brief than in +temperate regions, even if it do not yield at once to the violence of +disease. Yet there are circumstances of Europeans attaining a good and +green old age at Sierra Leone. Mr. Hornell, a Scotch merchant of great +wealth and probity--which latter virtue is rare enough, in this quarter, +to deserve special mention--has resided here fifteen years, and +twenty-seven years in the West Indies. He lives regularly, but generously +imbibing ale, and brandy-and-water, in moderate quantities, every day of +his life. + +The governor, Colonel George Macdonald, is now absent in England. In the +interim, the duties of the office are performed by Dr. Fergusson, a +mulatto in color, but born in Scotland, and married to a white lady, who +now resides in that country. Dr. Fergusson was regularly educated at +Edinburgh, and is a medical officer of the British army; a man of noble +and commanding figure, handsome and intellectual countenance, and finished +manners. He is affable, as well as dignified, in his deportment, and +fluent and interesting in conversation. To him, and five or six other men +of color, whom I have met on the coast, I should refer, as proofs that +individuals of the African race may, with due advantages, be cultivated +and refined so as to compare with the best specimens of white gentlemen. + +There is a large church here, said to have cost seventy thousand pounds +sterling; notwithstanding which vast expenditure, divine service has +ceased to be performed. The last clergyman, a young man universally +beloved and respected, lost his life, two or three years ago. He had gone +with a party of friends, five in all, on board a homeward-bound vessel, +which lay at a short distance from the shore. On their return the boat +capsized and sunk. The five Kroomen saved themselves, by swimming, until +picked up by a canoe; the five whites were lost; and the young clergyman +among them. The latter swam well, and was almost within reach of a canoe, +when he threw up his hands, exclaiming, "God have mercy on me!"--and +disappeared. A shark had undoubtedly seized him, at the moment when he +believed himself safe. This gentleman held the office of Queen's Chaplain; +and since his melancholy fate, no new appointment of that nature has been +made. If credit be due to the statements reciprocally made by the +colonists, in reference to one another, there is great need of teachers to +inculcate the principles of religion, morality, and brotherly love; +although the spiritual instruction heretofore bestowed (which has cost +large sums to the pious in England) has been almost entirely thrown away. +There are some missionaries here, who have directed their labors +principally to the business of education. + +The tide runs so strongly, into and out of the river, that such accidents +as that which befell the five Europeans, above-mentioned, are of no +unfrequent occurrence. When boats or canoes are upset, it is impossible +for the passengers to swim against the current. We had an instance of the +danger, while at anchor there. The captain was seated in his cabin, with +the stern windows open, when he heard a native in a canoe, under the +stern, say "Man drown!" Being asked what he meant, he reiterated the +words, pointing towards the sea. Just then, a cry was indistinctly heard. +Two of our boats were instantly despatched, and picked up three Kroomen, +whose canoe had sunk, leaving them to the mercy of the current, which was +rapidly drifting them towards the ocean. The Humane Society of Sierra +Leone bestows a reward for every person rescued from drowning. In this +instance, of course, no claim was made upon their funds. + +The currency here differs from that of all the other settlements on the +coast, except those belonging to Great Britain. The Spanish and South +American doubloons are valued at only sixty-four shillings sterling each, +or fifteen dollars and thirty-six cents; while they are worth elsewhere, +sixteen dollars. Spanish and South American dollars pass at about one per +cent. discount. The English sovereign is reckoned at four dollars eighty +cents; and the French five-franc piece at ninety-two cents. The gold and +silver coin of the United States is not current at Sierra Leone. Bills on +London, at thirty days sight, are worth from par to five per cent. +premium, and may actually be sold in small sums (say, from L100 to L2000) +at fair rates. + +Pilotage is five shillings sterling per foot; and the port-charges are so +exorbitant as to prevent the entrance of many vessels, which would +otherwise stop to try the market. Of late years, the trade of Sierra Leone +has suffered great diminution. Money having been lost on all the timber +exported, that business is at present nearly abandoned. Another cause of +decay is the withdrawal of the British squadron, which has now its +principal rendezvous at Ascension. More than all, as contributing to the +decline of the colony, the home-government has discontinued the greater +part of the assistance formerly rendered. The governor, colonial +secretary, and chief justice, are believed to be all the civil officers +who now draw their salaries from England. The military force consists of a +captain, five or six subalterns, and probably two or three hundred +soldiers. In consequence of the failure of support from the +mother-country, the colony has imposed higher duties upon certain +articles, in order to try the experiment of raising a revenue from their +own resources. The most sagacious and best informed residents predict that +the result aimed at will not follow, and that three or four years will +suffice to render the colony of Sierra Leone bankrupt. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Failure of the American Squadron to capture Slave-Vessels--Causes of that +Failure--High character of the Commodore and Commander--Similar +ill-success of the French Squadron--Success of the English, and +why--Results effected by the American Squadron. + + +It will not have escaped the reader's notice, that the foregoing journal +of our cruise records not the capture of a single slave-vessel, either by +our own ship or any other belonging to the American squadron. Such is the +fact, and such it must inevitably be, so long as the circumstances, which +prevented our efficiency in that respect, shall continue to exist. The +doctrines relative to the right of search, held by our Government and +cordially sanctioned by the people, declare that the cruisers of no +foreign nation have a right to search, visit, or in any way detain an +American vessel on the high seas. Denying the privilege to others, we must +of course allow the same inviolability to a foreign flag, as we assert for +that of our own country. Hence, our national ships can detain or examine +none but American vessels, or those which they find sailing under the +American flag. But no slave-vessel would display this flag. The laws of +the United States declare the slave-trade, if exercised by any of its +citizens, to be piracy, and punishable with death; the laws of Spain, +Portugal and Brazil, are believed to be different, or, at least, if they +threaten the same penalty, are certain never to inflict it. Consequently, +all slaves will be careful to sail under the flag of one of these latter +nations, and thus avoid the danger of losing life as well as property, in +the event of capture. + +Undoubtedly, many American vessels have been sold to foreigners, by +unprincipled citizens of our country, with a belief or full understanding +that they were to be employed in this nefarious trade. In some instances, +such vessels have been sold, with stipulations in the contract, binding +the seller to deliver them at slave-stations on the coast of Africa; they +have been sent out to those stations under American colors, and commanded +by American captains; and there, being transferred to new masters, they +have immediately taken on board their cargoes of human flesh. But how is +an American cruiser to take hold of a vessel so circumstanced? On her +departure from the United States, and until the transfer takes place, she +is provided with regular papers, and probably sails for her destined port +with a cargo which may be used in lawful, as well as unlawful trade. After +the transfer, she appears under foreign colors, is furnished with foreign +papers, commanded by a foreign master, and manned by a foreign crew. It is +not to be presumed that this change of nationality will be effected in +presence of one of our men-of-war. How then can such a vessel be taken or +molested, so long as the present treaties and laws continue in force? + +It is well that the public should be prepared for an inefficiency which +can hardly fail to continue; and, in justice to the American squadron, it +should be imputed to the true cause, and not to any lack of energy or +good-will on the part of the officers. Whatever be their zeal (and +hitherto they have been active and indefatigable), it is almost certain +that their efforts will not be crowned with success, in the capture of a +single prize. The Commodore, under whose general direction we have acted, +is a gentleman of the highest professional character, persevering, +sagacious, and determined, and well known as such, both in and out of the +service. The commanders of the different vessels were likewise men of +elevated character, zealous in performing their duty, and honorably +ambitious of distinction. If the incentive of gain be reckoned stronger +than considerations of duty and honor, it was not wanting; for, besides +half the value of the vessel, each liberated slave would have been worth +twenty-five dollars to the captors--a handsome amount of prize-money, in a +cargo of six or eight hundred. + +The French, like ourselves, having no reciprocal treaties with Spain, +Portugal, and Brazil, are equally unsuccessful in making prizes. Eleven of +their vessels of war were stationed on the coast, during the period of our +cruise, but effected not a single capture. England, by virtue of her +treaties with the three nations above mentioned, empowers her cruisers to +take slave-vessels under either of their flags. Hence the success of the +English commanders; a success which is sometimes tauntingly held up, in +contrast with what is most unjustly termed the sluggishness of our own +squadron. + +Still, the presence of American national vessels, on the coast of Africa, +has not been unattended with results that may partly compensate for the +sacrifice of human life and health, which the climate renders inevitable. +The trade of the United States has been protected. The natives have been +taught, that the humblest American merchant-vessel sails under the shadow +of a flag, which guarantees security to everything that it covers. The +colonies of Liberia have been made more respectable in the eyes of the +barbarian nations that surround them. This latter advantage it is +creditable to our country to bestow; for the United States demand from +Liberia no commercial exemptions, nor anything in return for the +countenance which she lends to that growing commonwealth. Never before, +perhaps, did a colony exist, so entirely free from vexatious interference +on the part of the mother-country, and so carefully fostered by the +benevolence that planted it. Slight as is the present political connection +between the United States and Liberia, the latest advices inform us that +it is in contemplation to sever the silken thread. The Colonization +Society, I understand, is discussing the expediency of relinquishing its +further control over the government, and allowing the infant colony to +take a place among independent nations. Should this event come to pass, +and Liberia either find the protection of another maritime power, or prove +adequate to protect herself, there will be one reason the less for sending +a squadron of gallant ships to chase shadows in a deadly climate. + +THE END. + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Journal of an African Cruiser, by Horatio Bridge + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN AFRICAN CRUISER *** + +***** This file should be named 7937.txt or 7937.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/9/3/7937/ + +Produced by Eric Eldred, S.R. 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