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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75851 ***
+
+
+
+
+
+                       [Illustration: NONANTUM.]
+
+
+
+
+                     INCIDENTS ON LAND AND WATER,
+
+                                  OR
+
+                   Four Years on the Pacific Coast.
+
+                       BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE
+
+         BURNING OF THE SHIPS NONANTUM, HUMAYOON AND FANCHON,
+             TOGETHER WITH MANY STARTLING AND INTERESTING
+                      ADVENTURES ON SEA AND LAND.
+
+                                  BY
+
+                           MRS. D. B. BATES.
+
+
+                            EIGHTH EDITION.
+
+
+                                BOSTON.
+                       PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR.
+                                 1860.
+
+
+      Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by
+                           MRS. D. B. BATES,
+in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts
+
+
+
+
+                             TO MY MOTHER,
+
+                        WHOSE CHERISHED MEMORY,
+
+               WHILE WANDERING FAR FROM YOUTHFUL SCENES
+
+           HAS OFTEN PROVED A TALISMAN IN THE HOUR OF NEED;
+
+             THE RECOLLECTION OF WHOSE DISINTERESTED LOVE,
+
+        HAS GIVEN ME COURAGE TO MEET AND BRAVE SEVEREST TRIALS;
+
+                THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
+
+                            BY THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Kind Reader! This simple unembellished history of portions of my life’s
+experience requires no preface. Its deficiencies, I trust, will save it
+from unjust criticisms; if justly deserved, may they be in all lenity
+bestowed, modified by sympathy, and kindness for the humble historian.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.                                                          Page.
+
+My Childhood’s Home,                                                  11
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+The Departure,                                                        12
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Fire on board Ship Nonantum at Sea,                                   17
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+The Falkland Islands,                                                 23
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+A South Sea Rookery,                                                  39
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Departure from the Falklands, and second fire off Cape Horn,          45
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Third fire at sea. Burning of the Ship Fanchon on the Coast of
+Peru,                                                                 57
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+The Desolate Beach,                                                   68
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Arrival and Residence at Payta,                                       73
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Arrival at Panama and visit Taboga,                                   82
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Arrival at San Francisco. Extensive Conflagration. Its Consequences,
+etc., etc.,                                                           96
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Leave San Francisco for Marysville,                                  111
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Situation and Climate of Marysville. Peep at the Country, Inhabitants,
+etc.,                                                                125
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Hotel Keeping and Life in a Canvas Shanty,                           137
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Description of an Indian Rancheria and its Occupants,                149
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+A Conflagration. Hotel Keeping resumed. Marysville Inundated,        156
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+A Journey up the Sacramento Valley. Descriptions of things
+seen and heard,                                                      163
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Trip to French Corral. Mountain Scenery. Mountain Ball, etc.,        169
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Journey to Park’s Bar. Experience in Mining. Fatal results
+of Gambling,                                                         192
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+Visit to Gen. Sutter’s residence. Description of the grounds.
+The Pleasant Surprise, or the Musical Miner. Good Fortune
+of a Lady in California. Emigrant Wagons. Belles of the
+Plain. Interesting and Ludicrous Incident. The English
+Gold Diggers. Loss of Life,                                          205
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+The Orphan Child. Delights of Stage-Coaching in California.
+The Hen that laid the Golden Eggs,                                   222
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+Execution of a man in Marysville. The petty theft the results
+of bad Influence. Accident at the Mines. “Obstinate as a
+Mule.” Mysterious Disappearance of Dunbar. Cold Blooded
+Murder. Disinterested Benevolence,                                   232
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+Hardships of the Mountain Settlers during the winter of 1852.
+A Brother’s Experience,                                              254
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+Peculiarities of John Chinaman. Conflagration in Marysville,         263
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+Farewell to Marysville. Departure. Arrival at San Francisco.
+Leave San Francisco for Home,                                        271
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+Incidents of the passage. Burial at Sea,                             275
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+Arrival at Panama. Description of Hotels. Walks about the
+city. The Battlement,                                                283
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+Crossing the Isthmus. Grave by the road-side. The beautiful
+Valley of Obispo. Take the cars for Aspinwall,                       291
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+Embark for Home, on board the North Star. A distressed family,       307
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+Arrival at New York,                                                 314
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+Incidents illustrative of Morals in California,                      315
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+Conclusion,                                                          334
+
+
+
+
+INCIDENTS ON LAND AND WATER.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+In the town of Kingston, in the State of Massachusetts, not many miles
+distant from that ancient and time-honored bay whose waters years ago
+kissed the prow of the “May Flower” as she approached a sterile and
+inhospitable shore, is situated the home of my childhood.
+
+The dear old homestead, the scene of so many fond recollections, had
+descended from father to son for generations. The storms of many winters
+had beaten upon its roof; time had left its impress without, in the
+shape of moss-covered shingles; but within, all was youthful joy and
+gladness. Not a link in that family circle had been severed. In love and
+affection were we nurtured.
+
+Although years have intervened since those sunny days of childhood, how
+often, while sojourning in distant lands, would memory recall with
+undimmed freshness the gladsome spring-time of youth. Happy days! too
+speedily do they fly, leaving, often, nought but the recollection of
+them to cheer us in our toilsome march. Early in life, I was united to
+one whose home was on the deep. Then came the sad partings from loved
+friends, to follow for many consecutive years the fortunes of my husband
+by sea and land. There were sad departures and joyful returns.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+On the 27th of July, 1850, I sailed from Baltimore in the ship
+_Nonantum_, of Boston, (Bates, master,) bound to San Francisco. In the
+ship’s hold was stowed one thousand and fifty tons of coal; the
+between-decks were filled with provisions for the steamers plying
+between Panama and the El Dorado of the West. The coal with which we
+were laden was taken from the Cumberland mines, brought directly to
+Baltimore in open iron cars, subject to frequent showers of rain on the
+way, and deposited in that condition in the ship.
+
+With bright hopes and glowing anticipations we left our native land.
+Well was it that no prophetic visions presaged the future that awaited
+us. We were wholly unconscious at the time of the remarks uttered by the
+spectators assembled upon the wharf, to the effect that coal was a
+dangerous cargo to take upon so long a voyage.
+
+By the lessons taught by the bitter experiences of that memorable year,
+many shipmasters have duly profited. Now, they stow their coal in casks,
+or in small quantities, have it dry when placed on board, and give it
+sufficient ventilation.
+
+The ship’s crew consisted of the usual complement of sailors, first and
+second officers, carpenter, cook, and steward; also two boys, who
+particularly attracted my attention. They were pleasant little fellows,
+who, being possessed of a mania for the sea, had left their homes to
+seek their fortunes upon the treacherous deep. Many times during the
+voyage had they occasion to bless the captain’s wife for a bite of
+something good from the cabin table, slyly given to them, and in secret
+eaten.
+
+This was not my first voyage. To me the cabin of a wave-tossed vessel,
+and a trip across the deep green ocean, was never monotonous or
+disagreeable, never being afflicted with that unpleasant nausea termed
+“sea-sickness,” so much to be dreaded, judging from the appearance and
+descriptions received. The separation from earth’s homes and loved
+hearts are all calculated to elevate the mind, and centre the soul’s
+best affections upon pure and holy objects. How often, hour after hour,
+have I sat gazing upon the boundless expanse of water, contrasting in my
+mind the utter insignificance of human power and skill, compared with
+the majesty of the Almighty Maker of the ocean and the land.
+
+Moonlight nights at sea are my especial delight. How I love to gaze upon
+the illimitable deep, and watch each ripple gleaming and sparkling in
+the broad and trackless pathway like myriads of diamonds beneath the
+effulgent beams of the glorious orb of night! Almost imperceptibly, a
+holy calm pervades my being, and absorbs all other faculties. With what
+reluctant feelings, on such evenings as these, would I resign my seat
+upon deck, even after the night was far spent.
+
+Before leaving Baltimore, my husband had purchased a beautiful
+Newfoundland dog, of the largest species; to which, on account of the
+remarkable sagacity he displayed, I became very much attached. In my
+daily promenade upon deck, he was ever by my side. Whenever a sail was
+discovered in the distance, he would place his huge fore-paws on the
+ship’s rail, and send his loud, hoarse bark reverberating far over the
+swelling wave.
+
+Then I had two goats on board to furnish milk, not being sailor enough
+to drink the strong coffee made on ship-board. They were very playful,
+and once a day were allowed the liberty of the deck, which they readily
+improved by racing and frolicking about, in which they were joined by
+Dash.
+
+In pleasant weather, when off the coast of Brazil, I have sat for hours
+on the ship’s rail fishing for albatross, one of the largest and most
+formidable of the South Sea birds, as they majestically sailed along in
+the wake of the ship, watching the bait (a piece of pork fastened to the
+hook, and a small bit of board attached to the line to float it,) so
+temptingly displayed. After swallowing it, and finding themselves
+captured, there was no struggling to free themselves, but, as you hauled
+in the line, they would sail gracefully along in all their native beauty
+and dignity. The assistance of the two boys was required in bringing
+them to the deck, where, after freeing them from the hook, (which, the
+boys always assured me, did not hurt them in the least,) they would
+survey the scene around them with a sort of contemptuous glance, as
+though they disdained their captors and the deception used to allure
+them from their native element. The goats, when freed from their
+inclosures, would advance towards them, rear themselves on their
+hind-legs, and shake their heads in defiance of the monster bird; while
+it, in turn, would snap its tremendous bill with such force, you could
+hear it ring from one part of the ship to the other; but they would
+never encounter one another except by threatening gestures. When we
+became satisfied with admiring our prisoner, two sailors would each
+grasp a wing, raise him to the side of the ship, give him a toss, and
+away he would soar; then light gracefully upon the water at a little
+distance, and view what I suppose he thought to be a huge monster which
+had held him in his grasp.
+
+Another amusement was taking a dish of crumbs, and, by throwing over a
+handful, call a flock of cape-pigeons to the ship’s side. Each one eager
+to secure his share, they would dive far down into the clear water to
+get those that were sinking. Sometimes, to deceive them, I would throw
+over a bone that would sink rapidly. Down they would all go after it out
+of sight; then appear again, chattering,--scolding, I called the
+incessant noise they kept up. This bird resembles our tame pigeon, with
+the exception of being a little larger.
+
+Flocks of “Mother Carey’s chickens” were occasionally following in our
+wake. Those tiny little things, ever on the wing, often excited my
+sympathy. About this time, the faithful dog I had learned to love so
+well sickened, and daily grew worse. Every remedy we could devise was
+called into requisition, but availed nought. One night, after I had
+retired, he dragged himself to my berth, placed his nose close to my
+face, and whined and moaned piteously. I afterwards thought it prophetic
+of evil in the future. Upon making my appearance upon deck the next
+morning, there lay the noble animal dead. Poor old Dash! the remembrance
+of thee and thy many virtues will live long on memory’s leaf.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+Days and weeks passed on, until we were in the latitude of the Rio de la
+Plata. So mild and pleasant had been the weather, that I was half
+inclined to believe this voyage indeed was to be an exception to all
+previous ones; although often, when expressing myself delighted with the
+continuance of such lovely weather, the exuberance of my feelings would
+be somewhat checked by repeated assurances from my husband that I should
+see it “rough enough” off Cape Horn to compensate for all previous
+calms.
+
+Suddenly the aspect of affairs changed, and we encountered a terrific
+storm, the bare recollection of which almost makes me shudder. The
+ship’s cabin was a house upon deck; and, as the storm increased in
+violence, the angry waves dashing higher and higher as each successive
+blast lashed the mighty deep, fears were entertained that the house
+would be forcibly detached from the deck. Heavy shutters were fastened
+against the windows as a protection to the glass against the storm,
+thereby rendering the cabin dark as night. A lantern was kept burning
+through the day, as well as by night. Owing to the violent motion of the
+ship, I was compelled, for the most part of the time, to keep my berth,
+to prevent being dashed against the cabin walls. I very reluctantly
+consented to confine myself to my state-room, but not, however, until I
+had received some severe bumps. So violent and sudden were those jerks,
+that, unless one was very much guarded, they would be thrown very
+unceremoniously from their seat.
+
+Oh, it was terrible to lie so many hours listening to the roaring of the
+storm without! I wished very much to get a glimpse of the ocean when
+lashed into such fury, but there was no aperture whereby I could gratify
+my curiosity. I had only to pray, and listen alone. My husband was
+constantly on deck, taking neither refreshment nor sleep. I wondered not
+at his anxiety, although I knew not then the imminent danger impending
+from fire as well as water; for, the second morning after the
+commencement of the storm, smoke had been discovered between decks. The
+alarming truth instantly flashed upon our minds. The gas that originated
+from the coal had generated fire. Orders were immediately given to get
+up provisions and water sufficient to last until we could be released
+from our awful situation. While thus engaged, several of the men were
+rendered senseless from the effects of the gas. They next proceeded to
+close the hatches, and caulked every seam tightly, in the hope of
+arresting the progress of the fire it was impossible to extinguish.
+
+Captain B---- shaped his course for the nearest land--the Falkland
+Islands, which were eight hundred miles distant. During this time, the
+severity of the gale was such, it compelled me to remain in the cabin;
+and for three days I remained in ignorance of our perilous situation.
+During this interval, the air in the cabin was ever impregnated with a
+strong odor of tar. This was accounted for to me in this light,--the
+cook was boiling tar, as they were obliged to make use of a great deal
+at such times. That, of course, looked very reasonable, and served the
+purpose of concealment from me of the fire. It is true the countenances
+of my husband and officers bore unmistakable traces of anxiety; but this
+I readily attributed to the violence of the gale, which threatened every
+moment to engulf us.
+
+I also noticed the steward caulking some of the seams in the pantry.
+Upon inquiry, he gave me to understand it was necessary to use this
+precaution, to prevent any liquids he should chance to spill from
+running down on the cargo,--a foolish excuse, to be sure; but, however,
+it proved effective. But, when the gas and smoke escaped through seams
+which were apparently water-tight, and made its appearance in the cabin,
+concealment was no longer possible.
+
+Upon learning the sad truth, for a time all fortitude and self-control
+forsook me. I thought of my dear old home far away, in its quiet
+seclusion; of the loved ones wont to assemble there to talk and pray for
+the safety of the absent one. I felt I should never more behold them,
+and that they would ever remain in ignorance of our fate. After the
+first moments of despair, Hope again asserted her empire. Repinings, I
+reasoned, were useless. The Almighty hand which formed the channels of
+the deep had power, I knew, to preserve us, and guide us, amidst storm
+and darkness, to our homes and havens of rest. The greatest
+consternation prevailed among the crew. At times the gale would abate,
+only to be renewed with increased violence. We were soon obliged to
+vacate the cabin, which was filled to suffocation with gas; and, for
+five consecutive days and nights, I remained in a chair which was lashed
+to the deck. It was quite cold, and often I was drenched with the water
+and spray that would dash at short intervals across the deck. Never can
+I forget those dreary days of suffering that I sat gazing from the
+narrow deck upon the boundless expanse of tossing, foam-crested billows.
+As far as eye could reach, no friendly sail appeared to which we could
+look for safety; nothing was seen but the sweeping surge, as it came
+roaring and dashing on, threatening to overwhelm us. In such an hour man
+learns of God, and witnesses proof of his grandeur and power in every
+dashing wave; he sees nature in one of its grandest aspects.
+
+If possible, the nights exceeded in anxiety the days; impenetrable
+darkness surrounded us, relieved only by sheets of white foam dashing
+over the bows, as the doomed ship madly plunged into the angry waters.
+When one sea more powerful than another would strike her, causing her to
+tremble in every timber, I would grasp my chair, shut my eyes, and think
+we were fast being engulfed in the sea. Oh, those nights of agony!
+Never, through all the vicissitudes of after life, will one thought, one
+feeling, then endured, fade from the volume of memory.
+
+Each day the ship was getting hotter; gas and smoke were escaping at
+every seam. We constantly feared an explosion, as the natural
+consequence of so much confined gas. What a solace to me, in those days
+of trial, was the trust, the implicit confidence, I felt in that mighty
+Guardian Power that is ever around and about us, and in whose protection
+we are forever safe!
+
+On the twelfth day after fire was first discovered, we made the Falkland
+Islands. As we approached the Volunteer Rocks, which make off two miles
+from land, gloomy and forbidding as were their appearance, I hailed them
+as harbingers of safety. Truly it must have been the sunshine, the
+grateful happiness of the heart, which clothed those barren rocks with
+imaginary beauty--I had almost said reverence.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+The entrance to the outer bay is called Port William. About twenty miles
+up this bay, an English colony is established. The entrance to Port
+William is designated by a tall flag-staff. At the time of our arrival,
+it was blowing a close-reefed-topsail breeze, directly down the bay;
+and, as night was approaching, the captain deemed it advisable to select
+the most sheltered situation at hand, and anchor until morning.
+
+Formerly, this colony was located up Berkley’s Sound, and called Port
+Louis. It has since been removed to its present site, and styled Port
+Stanley. The Falkland Islands are situated in the South Atlantic Ocean,
+where the mariner guides his course at night by the sacred constellation
+of the Southern Cross, and between the parallels of 51 deg. and 53 deg.
+south, and extending from 57 deg. to nearly 62 deg. west. The only two
+of considerable size are the East and West Falkland. These are separated
+by a channel. Around these islands are numerous rocks, whose distance
+from the shores, where tides run strongly, and winds are violent as well
+as sudden, renders it rather difficult to navigate. In approaching land,
+and particularly when entering a harbor, a good look-out should be kept
+for fixed kelp, which grows upon every rock covered by the sea, and not
+far below the surface. Lying upon the water, the leaves and stalk serve
+as well as a buoy to warn of hidden danger. A region more exposed to
+storms, both in summer and winter, it would be difficult to mention.
+High winds are prevalent, and very violent at times. During the summer,
+a calm day is an extraordinary event. Generally speaking, the nights are
+less windy than the days. Altogether, the appearance of these lonely
+isles of the South are dismal and uninviting in the extreme. Moorland
+and black bog extend in nearly every direction; although there are
+valleys affording coarse, excellent grass, upon which thousands of wild
+cattle subsist. Some tracts of land, I was informed, at the southern
+part of the island, were low, level, and abundantly productive of
+excellent herbage. Many years since, the French and Spanish left, at
+different times, cattle and horses upon the isle. They have multiplied
+and increased, until they now estimate the number at a hundred thousand
+head that are roaming wild over the hills.
+
+The ship being safely moored, I entreated my husband to take me on
+shore. After much persuasion, he consented. A boat was lowered, in
+which, after much difficulty, I was placed. This was effected by tying a
+rope around my waist, and lowering me down the ship’s side; then
+watching an opportunity when the boat was in a right position, to “lower
+away.” This method was of necessity adopted, the sea being so rough, I
+lacked the courage to leave the ship the usual way. When my feet were
+placed once more on _terra firma_, I inwardly resolved never again to
+return on ship-board. We wandered from the shore to the top of a small
+eminence, from whence, at a little distance, we descried a shanty.
+
+We approached, and, judging from the writing found upon the walls, it
+had been the resort of sailors thrown upon that inhospitable coast. In
+it was a sort of stone fire-place, on which the sailors placed some
+dried heather found in the hut, which, when ignited, threw out a ruddy
+blaze that sent its cheering beams directly to the heart. On our way to
+the hut, we noticed several perforations in the earth. One of the
+sailors, desirous of investigating the origin of these holes, thrust his
+hand into one of them, but instantly withdrew it with a smothered oath,
+and an expression evincing acute pain. Immediately, out rushed a
+penguin, displaying unmistakable symptoms of a fight. Every hole
+contained a penguin, secreted there for the purpose of incubation. The
+sailors, of course, exasperated that a brother shipmate should receive
+such treatment as a reward for his prying curiosity, routed the whole
+posse of penguins, and a regular hand-to-hand battle ensued; for to the
+penguins can never be imputed one particle of cowardice, when the call
+for action is the defence of her eggs or young. Victory was, of course,
+conceded to the strongest party. But not always does “might make right.”
+
+Nothing could be seen in any direction inland but barren hills; yet,
+cheerless as was the prospect on shore, no entreaty, or even command, of
+my husband, could induce me to return to that burning ship. Here was a
+sad dilemma for my husband to be placed in. A sense of duty called him
+on board; yet he could not leave me on shore all night without a
+protector. Finally, at the intercession of the mate, who volunteered to
+take good care of the ship, he reluctantly consented to remain with me,
+although he spent the greater part of the night watching the ship.
+
+Next morning, as we were about to repair to the boat,--for, upon
+reflection, I concluded that to be the only way by which the settlement
+could be reached,--a horseman appeared in the distance, riding at a
+furious pace directly for us. As he approached, and reined in his
+jet-black steed in front of our party, I certainly never beheld such a
+perfect specimen of equestrian grace and manly beauty.
+
+Springing from his horse, he accosted us in a language unintelligible to
+all except “Old Tom,” as he was designated by his shipmates. He proved
+to be one of a class of men denominated guachos, who are employed in
+lassoing and bringing in wild cattle. Tom soon acquainted him with every
+particular concerning us; whereupon he insisted that the capitan’s
+señora should go with him to his ranch, about four miles distant, where
+every attention would be lavished by his señora to render me comfortable
+until I could proceed to the settlement. Tom interpreted the
+invitation, which, of course, I declined accepting, feeling a reluctancy
+to go with him alone. Discovering my hesitancy, he endeavored to remove
+all objections by bestowing several flattering encomiums upon my
+personal appearance, which were certainly ill-starred, and served only
+to increase my unwillingness to go with him unattended. It was at length
+decided that the second mate should accompany me.
+
+Our Spanish friend laughed at the idea of my being afraid to mount his
+spirited horse, and even objecting to be seated in front of him--the
+manner in which they often ride with señoritas. He mounted his horse
+alone; while Mr. Wood and myself walked by his side. My husband returned
+to the ship. We found it very tiresome travelling over the bogs, with
+the wind blowing almost a gale. After panting and puffing, and being
+obliged several times to stop and recover breath, we reached the top of
+a little eminence; and there, sure enough, was the veritable ranch. It
+looked so pleasant and home-like about the little cottage, that in vain
+I endeavored to repress those outgushings of the heart engendered by the
+sight of objects which recalled vividly to mind home, and all the warm
+and kindly associations connected therewith.
+
+A lovely little Spanish woman met us at the door, and, after exchanging
+a few words with her husband, she embraced me affectionately, led me to
+a pleasant little room looking out upon the bay, and placed a loaf of
+bread and pitcher of milk on a table by my side. She seemed really
+grieved because I could not swallow one mouthful. My feelings were fast
+gaining the ascendency. So much sympathy as she expressed, by her
+gestures and tender offices, completely won my affections.
+
+I had taken very little food after learning the ship was on fire, and,
+with feelings all the while wrought to such a state of excitement, the
+revulsion well-nigh prostrated me. In the meantime, word had reached the
+settlement that there was a ship in distress outside, and a number of
+the most popular men of the place had started to render any necessary
+assistance. Sometime after noon, they reached the Spaniard’s house,
+where we were, and learning of Mr. Wood the particulars, took him into
+the boat, and, with the exception of three of them, proceeded to meet
+the ship. It was blowing so hard, they would be compelled to beat the
+ship up the bay, which would, of course, occupy some time.
+
+Mr. Hamlin, the physician, the surveyor-general, and the clergyman, (the
+three who remained,) proposed taking the sail-boat belonging to the
+Spaniard, and take me at once to the colony; and, as their ladies were
+English, it would be pleasanter than to remain where I was.
+
+Therefore, I bade adieu to my beautiful Spanish friend, and about
+sundown reached the narrow entrance to the inner harbor. Two large
+wooden men stand on each side of the entrance, pointing towards the
+town. Passing through, you find yourself in one of the nicest,
+land-locked harbors in the world, where ships of the largest tonnage can
+lie in safety.
+
+The town is built at the base of the hills, which rise gradually from
+this beautiful basin. How far away from the busy, bustling world seemed
+this little hamlet! and how quiet and serene, I thought, must pass the
+lives of those dwelling upon this remote isle! The sun was shedding his
+last golden rays upon the surrounding hill-tops, before retiring to his
+hesperian couch. While inanimate nature was welcoming me to this haven
+of rest, how inexpressibly lonely I felt at heart, surrounded by
+strangers! No doubt they would extend a friendly greeting; but, oh, how
+my heart yearned for the warm welcome of some home-friend!
+
+Mr. Hamlin took me to his house, where I was cordially received by his
+amiable lady, and nothing was omitted that could in any way contribute
+to my comfort, or serve to dispel those home-sick feelings which
+naturally acquired the ascendency. That night, sleep was a stranger to
+my pillow. I shall ever remember Mrs. Hamlin with feelings of affection.
+No kind mother could have bathed my aching head more tenderly. Oh, there
+is a magnetic power in kindness! Kind words are always winning, whether
+from friend or stranger.
+
+Late in the afternoon, the ship appeared at the entrance. After dropping
+anchor, my husband called a survey, opened her hatches, and found her to
+be so badly on fire, they decided to run her ashore, and scuttle her. He
+selected a spot which happened to be opposite the little grave-yard.
+Slowly and majestically was she wafted to her place of rest. Never more
+would she gallantly breast old ocean’s wave. With tearful eyes I watched
+her motions. She had been my home so long, I loved her as such. They cut
+holes in her side, and sank her in depth of water sufficient to cover
+the fire. For two days she was enveloped in steam, which precluded all
+possibility of gaining the deck. After the fire was extinguished, they
+stopped the holes, and worked the pumps incessantly, without
+diminishing in the least the depth of water in the ship. She had
+bilged; her beams and stancheons were burnt off; and her lower deck had
+fallen in. She was condemned and sold at auction. It was our intention
+to go directly home, as soon as an opportunity presented. The isolated
+situation of the island prevented its being visited often, especially by
+ships homeward-bound; therefore, our stay there might be indefinitely
+protracted. There were about four hundred inhabitants in this remote
+colony, consisting of English, Spanish, and French. The people were
+under the immediate jurisdiction of a governor, who ruled with despotic
+power. The governor, clergyman, doctor, governor’s secretary,
+surveyor-general, and lawyer, are appointed by the queen, and receive a
+salary of four hundred pounds sterling per year, with the exception of
+the governor, who has eight hundred. These, with their families, also
+Lloyd’s agent, and _the_ merchant, constitute the gentry, as they style
+themselves. The governor lives in princely style. To be seated in his
+reception-room, one would imagine himself in some English palace.
+Everything has been transported from England--both house and furniture.
+All the frame-buildings on the island were brought either from England
+or the main-land. Those of the poorer class were mere huts, constructed
+of peat and stone. Peat is also used by them for fuel. Those only who
+receive a salary can indulge in the luxury of a coal fire.
+
+There is not a tree on the island, with the exception of a few apologies
+for the same in the governor’s garden. They, upon being transplanted
+into such ungenial soil, had assumed a stinted, sickly appearance.
+
+The governor was a stern, austere-looking personage, greatly to be
+feared, and seldom loved. One little incident, that came under my own
+immediate perception, I will relate. It will serve, in a measure, to
+illustrate his arbitrary propensities. His household consisted of
+himself, wife, and two sons. The eldest was an imbecile, and so
+perfectly child-like in his disposition, that he readily won the
+sympathy of all the inhabitants. The youngest was a wild, head-strong
+sort of a chap, about fourteen years of age. For him they had employed a
+young governess, whom they brought with them from England. This young
+lady they treated more like a menial than as a companion for their
+children. They looked upon the young instructress as one born to labor
+and endure, seemingly unconscious that there were as deep fountains of
+sorrow and love in her heart as there was in those who were fostered in
+wealth and luxury. One evening, there was a social gathering at the
+house of Mr. W----; and, of course, Miss T----, being an accomplished
+and intelligent young person, was present. Upon preparing to leave,
+early in the evening, (as she was required to be in by nine o’clock,)
+Mr. W---- proposed to accompany her, as her path lay near the barracks,
+where were always assembled a drunken, riotous set. Next morning, he
+received a note from the governor, requesting his immediate presence.
+Mrs. W---- felt quite alarmed at the thought of her husband incurring
+the displeasure of his majesty. Upon appearing before this august
+personage, he received a severe reprimand for so far forgetting his
+station as a gentleman as to escort home one whom he considered as a
+dependent upon his bounty, and also assured him, if he was guilty of the
+like offence again, he should consider him deficient in all that
+constituted a gentleman.
+
+The governor’s wife boasted of being a descendant of the “fair maid of
+Perth.” I have no reason to doubt the tie of consanguinity, although she
+certainly had not inherited any of the personal attractions of her
+lovely progenitor.
+
+They were all very kind to us, showing every respect and attention.
+Doubtless, I often shocked them with my Yankee provincialisms. Every
+family of note had magnificent side-boards, stored with the choicest
+kinds of liquors and cordials. It was considered a breach of etiquette
+to refuse to partake of the good cheer set before you. What would our
+American ladies at the present day think of having such an array set
+before them, when making their accustomed calls? Yet it is universally
+practised here.
+
+To diminish our expenses, we concluded to go to housekeeping. My husband
+rented the only vacant building in the place, a miserable, barn-like
+shanty, for which he paid the exorbitant sum of thirty dollars per
+month. Thither we moved ourselves: we had little else to move. Nearly
+every one contributed some article of domestic use. Our larder was
+supplied with wild-fowl and beef, also a species of fish which are taken
+from the numerous streams which intersect the country. They are
+designated trout, but do not in appearance or flavor resemble our own
+speckled trout, which by epicures are considered such a nice treat. No
+kind of vegetables could be procured at any price. The inclemency of the
+weather, even in summer months, precludes the growth of the most hardy
+kind. Cold storms of hail and sleet are of frequent occurrence in
+summer. One gentleman, by inclosing a piece of ground with a high peat
+wall to shelter it from the cold winds, had managed, by dint of great
+exertion, to raise a few cabbages.
+
+Often, when seated at my window, my attention had been attracted towards
+a lovely little girl, with soft dark eyes, and long auburn ringlets
+hanging in rich profusion over her shoulders. She was usually
+accompanied by a tall, dignified, melancholy-looking individual, who, I
+afterwards learned, stood in the relation of father. His very
+countenance, which was seldom irradiated by a smile, bore traces of
+ineffable sorrow. They would spend hours in sailing around the bay in a
+fancy yacht, which he kept moored opposite our house. Upon inquiry, I
+learned that for some time the gossiping and wonder-loving portion of
+the community had been kept in constant agitation regarding the mystery
+that surrounded Mr. Montague (for by that name was he known) and his
+family. He kept himself aloof from all society; and the only servant he
+kept had never been known to speak an intelligible word to any one. She
+seemed devotedly attached to her master, and guarded little Myrtie with
+watchful tenderness. Myrtie came to my door one day, bringing me a
+basket of nice little fish, and gracefully presented them, saying that
+she often amused herself by fishing. After that, she became a daily
+visitor. Daily my interest in that child increased. She was wonderfully
+endued with intellectual powers for one of her years. One day, she said
+to me, “Do you know why I brought you those fish? and what brings me
+every day to see you?” I told her I did not. Said she, “I do so love to
+look in your face! It makes me feel happy. I always think of some one I
+loved well, and called mamma. It seems such a long time ago,--so _very_
+long,--I sometimes think it was a dream. But, since you came here, I can
+remember more. I can recollect she looked like you; and, when you smile,
+you look as she used to, when she would kiss me, and call me her little
+darling. Oh, I remember how I cried when a tall, dark-looking man
+snatched me from my mamma’s arms,--how she looked, as she ran screaming
+after us!
+
+“I never saw her again. Then old ‘Nurse Bell’ took care of me. We sailed
+on the water a long, long time before we came here.” Her papa, she said,
+“was very kind, and she loved him; but she could love him better, if he
+would talk more about mamma.” When she asked him to tell her _all_
+about her, he would shake his head, look very gloomy, and say, “Your
+mamma is in heaven.” Her father was her only instructor, and she was far
+advanced in her studies. He also taught her music: she played and sang
+sweetly. For once I felt inclined to pardon the inquisitive; for they
+certainly had food for idle speculation. Dear little Myrtie! often have
+I sighed when thinking of your lonely situation, uncheered by the
+presence of that guardian angel of childhood--a mother--on whom you
+could bestow that wealth of affection concentrated in an almost _too_
+confiding and sensitive heart.
+
+The winter preceding our arrival at the islands had been one of unusual
+inclemency. Communication with the main-land was entirely cut off before
+the winter’s supply of hay and grain had been procured. In consequence,
+the cattle suffered incredibly. The snow, for two months, lay upon the
+ground to the depth of two feet. All the sustenance the cattle could
+obtain was insufficient to keep off starvation. They were often found
+dead, thirty and forty in heaps together.
+
+When the English first established this colony, they intended to export
+hides, tallow, seal-skins, and seal-oil. As yet, they have shipped no
+tallow. Sealing is carried on to a considerable extent.
+
+England’s convicts, when banished to the sunny isle of Australia, are
+not as deserving of the sympathy of the philanthropist as are those old
+pensioners, to the number of thirty, who, with their families, have been
+induced, by the promises held out to them, and which they have found, to
+their sorrow, can never be fulfilled, to leave merry England, for a home
+on these barren islands.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+The feathered tribes are very numerous on these islands of Southern
+hemisphere. Of penguins, there are four kinds--the king penguin, the
+macaroni, the jackass, and the rookery. The first of these is much
+larger than a goose; the other three are smaller, differing in
+appearance in several particulars. They all walk upright, with their
+legs projecting from their bodies in the same direction with their
+tails. When fifty or more of them are seen in file, they appear, at a
+distance, like a company of soldiers. They carry their heads high, with
+their wings drooping like two arms. The breast-feathers are delicately
+white, with a line of black running across the crops. Seen at a
+distance, they have the appearance of little men, with a white bosom,
+black neckerchief, and short breeches. Their gait on land, however, is
+very awkward--rather more so than that of a sailor just returned from a
+long voyage.
+
+When tamed, the penguin becomes quite tractable. A lady at the isle had
+domesticated and made quite a pet of a king penguin, which she, however,
+proposed to relinquish for the sum of thirty dollars. She had taught him
+to sit at table with her. A sip of coffee he seemed to enjoy with much
+gusto; and if, perchance, she attempted to raise the cup to her lips
+before first presenting his majesty with a draught, he would, quick as
+thought, with a blow from one of his “hands,” dash the cup to the floor.
+He followed her about the house as a child follows its mother; and she
+assured us he was a great deal of company for her when alone.
+
+Another sea-fowl peculiar to the islands is the upland-goose, which is
+about the size of our domestic goose. Their plumage is rich and glossy:
+that of the gander is dazzlingly white. The down is equal to that of the
+swan. The teal are also found here, and far surpassing in beauty those
+of this country. Their bills and feet are blue; their wings of a golden
+green. The ducks are similar to those found in the United States; but
+the manner of going a-ducking very dissimilar,--no lying in wait half a
+day before getting a good shot. You might take your gun and shoot them
+down, and dozens will come to ascertain the cause of the report.
+
+Previous to our arrival, three other vessels had put into the harbor in
+distress, and had been condemned. The crews of these vessels were
+constantly out gunning. I would see them often returning over the hills,
+laden with those beautiful white geese, looking like so many swans. A
+Dutch captain, whose vessel had been condemned, was very contentedly
+pursuing the “even tenor of his way,” bringing in the game, while “mine
+frow” was as industriously manufacturing feather beds. Never having
+heard them say anything about getting away, I presume they are yet at
+the old vocation.
+
+A moral philosopher and naturalist would be highly interested in
+contemplating, for days, the operations of a South Sea rookery,
+observing the order and regularity with which everything is conducted.
+When a sufficient number of penguins, albatross, etc., are assembled on
+shore, they proceed to the execution of the grand object for which they
+left their native element. First, they trace a well-defined
+parallelogram, of requisite extent to accommodate the whole
+fraternity,--perhaps from one to four or five acres. One side runs
+parallel with the water’s edge, and is left open for egress and regress.
+They then commence picking up the stones, and depositing them outside
+the lines; thus creating quite a little wall on three sides. Within this
+wall they form a pathway, several feet in width, which would not suffer,
+in regard to smoothness, compared with any fashionable promenade in our
+city parks. This path is for the sentinels to patrol at night. They next
+lay out the whole in little squares, formed by narrow paths which cross
+each other at right angles. At each intersection of these paths, an
+albatross constructs her nest; while in the centre of each square is a
+penguin’s nest.
+
+Although the penguin and albatross profess such sincere attachment for
+one another, they not only form their nests in a different manner, but
+the penguin will rob her friend’s nest, whenever an opportunity
+presents; being ambitious, I suppose, to produce a large family. The
+penguin’s nest is formed by an excavation in the earth; while that of
+the albatross is formed by throwing up a mound of earth, eight or ten
+inches high; on the summit of which she can scrutinize the proceedings
+of her nearest neighbors and best friends.
+
+The camp of the rookery is in continual motion; penguins passing through
+the different paths, on their return from aquatic excursions, eager to
+caress their mates after a temporary absence; while the latter are
+passing out in quest of refreshment and recreation. At the same time,
+the air is almost darkened by an innumerable number of albatross
+hovering over the rookery, continually lighting, and meeting their
+companions; while others are rising, and shaping their course for the
+sea. To see these creatures of the ocean so faithfully discharge the
+duties assigned them by the great Creator; to witness their affectionate
+re-unions, their numerous acts of tenderness and courtesy to each other,
+the reflection naturally arises, that, if there was only as much harmony
+and genuine affection between wedded pairs of the human family, the
+connubial state would then indeed be “all that we dream of heaven.”
+
+We had remained at the islands about a month, when the ship Humayoon,
+from Dundee, (McKenzie, master,) bound to Valparaiso, laden with coal,
+tar, and liquors, put into port to procure water and beef. The captain
+formed an acquaintance with my husband, and, after learning the
+particulars of our situation, very kindly offered us a passage to
+Valparaiso; from whence we could, in all probability, arrive home sooner
+than by remaining where we were. After having procured the necessaries
+required, I expected the captain would at once proceed on his voyage;
+but, being perfectly independent, as he was sole owner of the fine ship
+and cargo, he protracted his stay at the settlement day after day,
+thereby gratifying the mirth-loving portion of the community by
+assembling them at different times on ship-board, to join in the merry
+dance. He had on board several musical instruments, which he was taking
+out to dispose of; and, being possessed of extraordinary musical
+talents, the people were perfectly delighted and entranced with
+specimens of his skill. He had a perfect passion for Scotch airs, which,
+all conceded, never before sounded half so enlivening. But pleasures,
+however transporting, unhappily cannot last. No chain, be it of gold, or
+pearl, or flowers, can bind the stubborn wings of Time, and bid him
+loiter on his way. On the morning of the 25th of November, he weighed
+anchor, and turned her bows towards the entrance.
+
+I cast a last, sad, lingering look at the old Nonantum, and bade adieu
+to kind friends, whom, probably, I should never meet again on the
+journey of life, although they would be often remembered. During my
+sojourn at the islands, although I found kind friends, I passed many a
+gloomy hour. As the season approached which, from time immemorial, in
+dear old New England, has been observed as a day of thanksgiving and
+prayer,--a day, of all others, when severed families assemble under the
+paternal roof, to meet once again the loved friends of their youth, to
+tread again the paths hallowed by childhood’s earliest
+recollections,--the anniversary of such a day, while in this remote
+region, crowded my memory with reminiscences of the past, pleasurable,
+from the associations which they recalled, and painful, from the
+position which I then occupied.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+Once more I found myself on board a good ship, bounding gayly over the
+blue waters. Captain McKenzie possessed, in an eminent degree, the
+ability of rendering his passengers perfectly at home and happy. His
+crew were composed entirely of Scotchmen; and, every evening, the echo
+of their merry Scotch songs were wafted far over the deep sea. Captain
+McKenzie proposed teaching to me the Spanish language, being a perfect
+linguist himself. He found me far more tractable in that than in
+learning to take a glass of his “good Scotch whiskey,” as he termed it,
+to which I had taken a mortal aversion, and for which he entertained a
+decided preference.
+
+He was a skilful navigator, and, on his voyages around Cape Horn,
+invariably passed through the Straits of Le Maire, which separate Staten
+Land from Terra del Fuego, and, by “hugging the land,” escape some of
+the severe blows so prevalent in that region. He having been on several
+exploring expeditions in those waters, I experienced a degree of
+security I should not otherwise have felt in approaching so near to huge
+and jagged rocks, that for ages had reared their frowning heads, as if
+in defiance of old ocean’s roar. We passed the veritable Cape Horn
+(situated on Hermit Island) in such close proximity, one could
+distinctly discern the barren soil. While I stood gazing at the
+conical
+
+[Illustration: BURNING OF THE HUMAYOON.]
+
+mount, said the captain, “You have now seen what many an old navigator
+in these waters never beheld, they keep so far south.” I assured him one
+sight was sufficient for a life-time; that the remembrance of the
+wildness and grandeur of that ocean scene would never be obliterated
+from the pages of memory.
+
+That night, it came on to blow tremendously. Next morning, we found
+ourselves eighty miles from land, and, horror of horrors, the ship on
+fire! My heart refused to give credence to the startling report, until
+my eyes beheld it. Our worst fears were too soon confirmed by the flames
+darting upwards, and igniting the hatch the men were vainly endeavoring
+to caulk; for fear had paralyzed their faculties. When that burnt and
+fell in, the flames shot upward almost to the top-mast-head. The
+combustible nature of the cargo caused the fire to increase with
+wonderful rapidity. The long-boat was launched, and I was placed
+therein, with my pet-goat; for I would not leave her behind: the other I
+had given to Myrtie. After several ineffectual attempts to get at some
+bread and water, the fire and smoke drove them all in confusion to the
+boat. They pulled off a short distance, and we gazed in sadness and
+silence upon what was so recently our happy home, now a burning wreck.
+The calmness of despair pervaded my whole being: all was comprehended at
+a glance,--eighty miles from land, and that an inhospitable coast,
+inhabited only by savages; without bread or water; in an open boat,
+exposed to the inclemency of Cape Horn weather! People on the land,
+seated by their pleasant firesides, imagine they can understand our
+feelings at that time; but it is impossible. Even when danger, in its
+most appalling form, threatens on the land, there is generally some
+avenue of escape open. But at sea, with nought but a frail plank between
+you and a watery grave,--and that so fragile, one dash of those mighty
+waves might annihilate it,--oh, the horror of such a situation can
+_never_ be conceived!
+
+All at once, the joyful cry of “Sail, ho!” was shouted from our midst;
+and, far away, I could descry a speck upon the ocean. Nearer and nearer
+it came, until, when within about a mile of us, she “hove to,” and
+lowered away a boat, which came bounding over the water to our relief.
+This ship proved to be the Symmetry, of Liverpool, Captain Thompson,
+bound to Acapulco, and laden with coal. How that word rang in my ears!
+It seemed to me every ship that floated was coal-laden. We repaired at
+once on board the Symmetry. Capt. McKenzie requested, as a favor, that
+Capt. Thompson would “lay by” until the Humayoon was burned down. Now
+that we could view her from a place of safety, it was a scene to rivet
+the attention of all beholders. Flying about, at the mercy of the wind
+and waves, the flames bursting out her sides (the liquor was stowed aft)
+and stern, the blue flames wreathed and flashed higher and higher. Soon
+the main and mizen-mast began to totter: they swayed to and fro for
+about ten minutes, when they fell with a crash over the side. Soon the
+fore-mast fell; and all that remained of the fine ship Humayoon lay a
+burning mass upon the water.
+
+Captain Thompson now made sail, and soon the remains of that noble ship
+which, only twelve days previously, had borne us from our island
+retreat, was obscured from our view. Her commander dropped a tear to her
+memory, and retired in silence to the cabin.
+
+Captain Thompson was accompanied by his wife and family. I was pleased
+at the idea of enjoying for a season, however brief, the society of a
+female friend. Capt. Thompson had previously informed us that our stay
+on board the Symmetry must of necessity be prolonged no farther than
+such a time as he could speak some ship. His inability to accommodate
+us longer than was actually necessary was owing to a scarcity of
+provisions, his own ship’s crew being then on an allowance. He had been
+seven months from Liverpool. He had put into Rio on the way, where, on
+account of severe indisposition, he had remained several weeks. While
+there, his crew had nearly all deserted him. When ready for sea, he
+shipped any he could get; and a sorry set he had. Part of them had
+mutinied, and were confined; and the other half carried the principles
+of revolt, too apparent to be mistaken, in their dark countenances.
+
+Night had now spread its sable mantle over the world of waters; the
+bright constellations were reflected in the deep; and the noble ship,
+with majestic and graceful motion, was cleaving a pathway for herself
+through the rapidly heaving billows. My thoughts, as my eyes wandered
+over the waste of waters, were busy with the past and present,--for the
+future I could only hope. But a few months had intervened since leaving
+Baltimore; and yet how much intense anxiety, actual suffering, and
+harrowing suspense, were crowded into that short space! One day on board
+a burning ship, with no hope of escape; then a port of safety in view;
+then on board another ship, with every prospect of a speedy termination
+of our eventful voyage; then, again, assailed by fire, and obliged to
+seek safety in an open boat, far from land; and then transferred to a
+place of temporary safety,--for what could we expect but a recurrence of
+those awful scenes, while on board a coal-laden ship? “What,” thought I,
+“will be the end? Shall I ever be permitted to reach in safety the land
+of my birth?” I dared not entertain a hope seemingly so fallacious. As
+time progressed, I was often reminded, by painful contrast, of the
+fleeting happiness enjoyed on board the Humayoon. _There_ a spirit of
+harmony and love seemed to pervade the whole ship’s company. The reverse
+of this at sea is disagreeable in the extreme; and the truth of this
+assertion was never more clearly demonstrated than on board the
+Symmetry. In lieu of heart-stirring songs and happy faces, gloomy
+frowns, and curses “not loud but deep,” met the ear at every turn;
+anarchy and discord went hand in hand. Daily I scanned the ocean in
+search of a sail, anticipating a happy change, yet dreading what I most
+desired; for had not experience taught me that whatever we most
+earnestly desire, when attained, often proves the source of the keenest
+misery? At the expiration of thirteen days, the anxiously expected sail
+appeared. Mentally I prayed it might be an American; for with my own
+countrymen there exists a congruity of thought and feeling which renders
+their society more congenial. As she neared us, we perceived, to our
+great joy, that she was a large American ship. In answer to Captain
+Thompson’s signal, she hove to. He then sent a boat to ascertain if we
+could be transferred to her. She proved to be the Fanchon, of
+Newburyport, Captain Lunt, bound to San Francisco, laden with coal,
+which she took in at Baltimore. We became acquainted with Captain Lunt
+while at Baltimore. The Nonantum had sailed three weeks in advance of
+the Fanchon. The Nonantum had gone to her last resting-place; and here,
+on the broad Pacific, we met the Fanchon, in all her pristine
+architectural beauty, unharmed, and yet laden with Cumberland coal. Upon
+Capt. Lunt learning that we were on board the Symmetry, he came with all
+possible haste in his own boat to convey us to the Fanchon.
+
+In the interim, Captain McKenzie had effected a compromise with Captain
+Thompson, to the effect that he would sail as near to the port of
+Valparaiso as would render it safe and feasible for Captain McKenzie and
+crew to embark in their long-boat, and arrive at their destined port.
+How well they succeeded, future events will promulgate.
+
+I should judge, the two ships lay about a mile apart. Soon after we
+welcomed Captain Lunt on board the Symmetry, the heavens became suddenly
+overcast; and, as appearances betokened a squall, it was thought
+advisable for me to depart instantly with Captain Lunt; while my husband
+should collect what effects we had preserved from the Humayoon and my
+goat, and come in the ship’s boat. Thinking and hoping we should reach
+the Fanchon before the squall struck, they watched us with intense
+anxiety from the ships. When little more than mid-way between the ships,
+it came. Drenched with spray, and clinging to my seat, I dared not
+express my terror other than by looks. “Do not be alarmed,” said Capt.
+Lunt. “There is no danger to be apprehended. We shall soon reach the
+Fanchon; and, when once on her deck, all trouble and danger will flee
+away.” By such cheering words, he endeavored to divert my thoughts from
+our by no means enviable situation. My heart almost ceased its
+pulsations as we bounded over the white-crested billows. How intently
+were we watched by those on board the Symmetry! When we would disappear
+from their view in the trough of the sea, Mrs. Thompson would exclaim,
+“They are gone! they are lost!” and, when we appeared on the top of some
+mighty wave, would the fervent exclamation, “Thank God, they are safe!”
+ascend from every heart. By some mischance or other, in attempting to
+get alongside, we were swept towards the ship’s stern. She was plunging
+and rolling terribly. “My God, we are under the stern!” was the hasty
+ejaculation borne to my ears; and there, towering high above us over our
+frail boat, was the noble ship, threatening instant destruction. It was
+but momentary. By almost superhuman exertion, the boat’s crew succeeded
+in placing our frail bark beyond the reach of imminent danger; and, as
+the ship dashed down into the bosom of her native element, we were
+beyond her reach, but not far enough to escape the tumultuous dashing of
+the waters, which for an instant caused me to doubt my being in the
+boat. The second attempt to reach her side was crowned with success. A
+rope was thrown from the ship, which was caught by those in the boat. It
+required the united exertions of all to keep the boat from being dashed
+to pieces against the ship’s side. It seemed almost an impossibility for
+me to ascend the side of the ship unassisted; but so I must go, if I
+went at all, and that right
+
+[Illustration: TRANSFER FROM THE SHIP SYMMETRY TO THE FANCHON.]
+
+speedily. I could scarcely retain an upright position in the boat; and
+yet, as the ship rolled towards us, my instructions were to jump and
+catch the man-ropes, and cling hold until she careened the other way,
+and then to climb the steps as quickly as possible. The water was
+boiling and surging between the ship and the boat in such a manner as to
+intimidate a much _larger_ female than myself. Captain Lunt was to give
+the word when to jump; and, when “Now is your time! now is your time!”
+came thundering in my ears, all my innate fortitude deserted me; I was
+powerless to move. Captain Lunt, rightly conjecturing that, unless moved
+by some sudden impulse of resentment, I should never gain the deck,
+looked and spoke his feelings of disapproval so palpably, (he afterwards
+assured me it cost him no small effort to conceal his genuine feelings,)
+that I felt I would make an attempt, “live or die, sink or swim.” When
+next the word was given, it was promptly obeyed. I jumped, caught one of
+the ropes with both hands, and clung with the tenacity of one whose only
+hope of preservation depended upon a firm grasp. I was all the time
+cheered by the cry of “Hold on; you are safe!” In a moment I had clasped
+the other rope, ascended the steps, and was placed upon deck by the
+mate. I could recollect nothing more distinctly, until I found myself
+in a beautiful cabin, attended by an old man, judging from his silvered
+locks; yet his fresh and healthy appearance gave evidence that, although
+“Father Time” had whitened his hair, he had made but few inroads upon a
+healthy constitution. He was the steward--an old and devoted servant to
+the captain, in whose employ he had been for seventeen years. He was a
+native of England. His words of consolation to me were, “God bless your
+dear little heart!” accompanied by a pat on my shoulder; “may you never
+be in such a situation again. Lord bless you! The sight of one of my
+girls in a like situation would well-nigh break my heart.” Soon my
+husband arrived in safety. Captain Lunt made sail, and, long before the
+shades of evening descended, the Symmetry was scarcely discernible. The
+Fanchon was far her superior, as regarded sailing qualities and
+symmetrical proportions. All the symmetry the other could boast of lay
+in the name. I wished her success, and a safe arrival at her destined
+port. She had been my home for thirteen days; and, although there were
+many disagreeable incidents connected with our stay on board, yet she
+had appeared to render assistance, when our hopes were at the lowest
+ebb. Under these considerations, I bade her adieu as an old friend. The
+cupidity of her captain may be illustrated by the fact of his presenting
+a bill of one hundred and fifty dollars to my husband, as he was about
+leaving the ship. There was no alternative but to pay it, situated as we
+were. For this mean act he was published. The news reached the ear of
+his employer, who quickly refunded the amount, and also discharged him
+from his employ. Once again we met the Symmetry, before the termination
+of this never-to-be-forgotten voyage. When and where, time and future
+pages will explain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+Our home on board the Fanchon was all the most fastidious could desire.
+Captain Lunt was possessed of all those gentlemanly attributes which are
+calculated to win the possessor friends, and respect from all with whom
+he associates. Ever joyous and light-hearted, the salutary effects
+produced by the exercise of these excellent properties seemed to
+pervade the hearts of all subject to his control. He also being a
+judicious disciplinarian, the greatest neatness and order imaginable
+prevailed throughout the ship. Our fancied security--our sanguine
+expectations that our troubles from fire at sea were at an end--our
+hopes of a safe and speedy termination of our voyage--all these
+heart-cheering feelings were sustained and strengthened by reiterated
+assurances from Captain Lunt that there was no danger whatever of the
+Fanchon’s burning, she was so well ventilated. In fact, he attributed
+the destruction of the other ships to want of proper ventilation.
+Besides, he argued, that if there had been the least probability of its
+taking fire, it would have done so long ago. We all conceded his
+arguments were decidedly conclusive; and, for a few days, anxiety, fear,
+suspense, and all the attendant train of harrowing reflections, were
+strangers to my bosom. But as frail and fleeting as are all the
+evanescent joys of earth were my hopes. On the 25th of December, in the
+evening, as we sat conversing of the day, and the manner in which they
+were celebrating it at our far distant homes, and vainly wishing that,
+by another Christmas, our places in the family circle would not be
+vacant, a puff of air was wafted into the cabin, so strongly
+impregnated with gas as to render the conviction certain in my mind,
+that the coal was on fire. I speedily gave utterance to my fears, which
+met with a responsive “Pshaw! you have inhaled and smelt gas so often,
+it has become accessory to your very being.”
+
+They failed, however, in eradicating from my mind the impression that
+the coal was on fire. Upon retiring for the night, the thought of being,
+for the third time, on board a burning ship, so harassed me as to
+completely banish slumber from my pillow. Next morning, the captain
+instituted a search throughout the ship, which proved, beyond a doubt in
+his mind, there could be no fire. We were now about twelve hundred miles
+from land, with a fair wind, on the direct course for San Francisco.
+
+Things remained in this state for two or three days. I cannot affirm
+that the minds of _all_ were perfectly free from apprehension; yet, as
+strict watch was kept, and nothing except that disagreeable smell of gas
+was apparent to confirm my fears, I felt a little more at rest. The
+third day, as Capt. Lunt was watching one of the large ventilators on
+deck, he saw something having the appearance of smoke escaping
+therefrom. He sprang down between decks--there was no appearance of
+smoke or fire whatever; raised the lower hatch--all appeared as usual.
+He then ordered the second mate to dig down into the coal, and soon
+proofs beyond a doubt were too apparent. The coal was so hot, it could
+not be taken in the hand. The whole body of coal, two or three feet
+below the surface, was red hot. The same preparations for a life on
+board a burning ship were again repeated that it had been my fortune
+twice previously to witness. In this instance, we had not to contend
+with the elements of wind and water as well as fire; for the ocean, at
+times, was as smooth and transparent as a glass. For a time, Captain
+Lunt shaped his course for the Galapagos Islands, what wind there was
+being favorable to waft us in that direction; and, our distance from the
+islands and the main-land being nearly equal, he was undecided for some
+time which port would be our destination. Being within the tropics, the
+weather was exceedingly pleasant--almost too much so for our benefit.
+
+For several days in succession, it would remain perfectly calm. The
+nights were beautifully serene; not a cloud, or the slightest film of
+vapor, appeared on the face of the deep blue canopy of the heavens. The
+moon, and countless starry host of the firmament, exhibited their
+lustrous splendor in a perfection of brilliancy unknown to the
+night-watchers in the humid regions of the Atlantic. The ship would be
+lying listlessly upon the surface of the unbroken waste of waters, while
+our minds were constantly agitated between hope and fear,--hope, that
+each morn, as the golden orb of day appeared rising from old ocean’s
+bosom, that, ere she bid us farewell at eve, some welcome sail would
+come to the rescue; and fear, as each returning day numbered
+disappointed hopes, and increased the heat on ship-board, that we were
+indeed a doomed crew.
+
+At night, signal-lights were kept burning, in the hope of attracting the
+attention of some vessel which might be passing. For days look-outs were
+stationed aloft, and more than once were our ears gladdened with the
+joyful cry of “Sail, ho!” which as often proved a vain illusion. The
+strained vision and anxious solicitude of those on the look-out caused
+them to imagine they saw that which they vainly desired to behold.
+
+I was induced, by the entreaties and advice of my husband, seconded by
+those of Captain Lunt, to adopt gentlemen’s apparel. Considering the
+danger and exposure we might be subjected to, should we be compelled to
+remain any length of time in the boats,--to which, unless relief
+arrived from some other source, we should resort to soon,--it was not,
+everything considered, a bad idea, which might never have been carried
+into effect had Capt. Lunt been as large in stature as my husband.
+Accordingly, from the captain’s wardrobe was selected a pair of black
+pants, a green hunting-coat, black satin vest, bosom, and collar worn à
+la Byron, and a purple velvet smoking-cap. Arrayed in this garb, I was
+scarcely recognizable by my friends on board. Days came and passed, and
+yet no relief appeared. Daily, convincing proofs appeared to warn us of
+the slow but sure destruction of the ship, in the form of gas and smoke,
+which were escaping through every seam. The beautiful paint-work and
+gilding of the cabin assumed the darkest hue; everything on board seemed
+shrouded in the sable habiliments of mourning. Slowly and gradually we
+neared the land; and, after three weeks of intense suspense and
+solicitude, the exulting cry of “Land, ho!” was echoed far and near. It
+was an uninhabited part of the coast of Peru--a small bay, or, rather,
+indenture made in at this place, called the Bay of Sechura. Into this
+bay the ship was guided; and, when about two miles from shore, she was
+brought to an anchor, at about four o’clock, P.M. As soon as the
+wished-for haven appeared, I hastened to my state-room, and doffed my
+male attire, supremely happy to exchange what I had so reluctantly
+adopted, and what each succeeding day of usage rendered still more
+distasteful. Rest assured, O ye of the opposite sex, that I, for one,
+will never attempt to appropriate to myself the indispensables, or the
+love of lordly power which usually accompanies them, but leave _you_ in
+undisputed possession of your rights!
+
+Long before we reached our anchorage, the roaring of the surf, as it
+dashed upon the lonely beach, sounded like a mournful dirge to our ears.
+There appeared to be a short stretch of sandy beach, circumscribed by
+high and jutting rocks. Around us, on either side, were innumerable
+breakers, threatening destruction as we approached nearer; yet we heeded
+not our dangerous proximity to sunken rocks, but the noble ship bounded
+gayly over the waters, unmindful of the destiny awaiting the doomed.
+
+In the distance could be discerned the Andes Mountains, rearing their
+lofty heads in silent grandeur, and seeming to penetrate the blue dome
+of the o’er-arching heavens. Immediately upon bringing the ship to an
+anchor, preparations were made to effect a landing in the boats.
+Captain Lunt and my husband deposited their nautical instruments and
+charts, and some few articles of clothing, in a chest which they had
+rendered as nearly water-proof as possible, and consigned it to one of
+the boats. We threw overboard all the spare spars upon deck, and
+everything that would float. We had no provisions or water to take on
+shore, and had been refreshed with none through the day. There was one
+pig on board that had left Baltimore in the ship, and one hen. These,
+together with my pet-goat, the sailors took under their own immediate
+protection, and succeeded in landing them on the beach. The pig, in the
+height of his terror, beat an instantaneous retreat into one of the
+numerous caves, or recesses, situated at the base of perpendicular
+cliffs, which rose nearly two hundred feet, and presented an effectual
+barrier to any attempt that might be made to scale them. I recollect
+distinctly my sensations on leaving the ship in a boat; how intently I
+watched the foaming surf we were fast approaching, and which had already
+engulfed the boat in advance; then an indistinct recollection of roaring
+and splashing of water,--of voices heard above the din of all, giving
+directions,--of being dragged, minus bonnet and shawl, through the
+surf
+
+[Illustration: BURNING OF THE FANCHON ON THE COAST OF PERU.]
+
+upon the sandy beach. Of my very unceremonious introduction within the
+precincts of the province of Peru, I have no very pleasing
+recollections. After removing everything off the ship’s deck, they ran
+her still nearer in, and scuttled her; but the fire had made such
+progress, it was impossible to save her. In two hours after we left her
+deck, she burst out into a sheet of flame. The fire caught to the sails,
+which were spread to the breeze, and she was a sheet of fire to the
+mast-heads. Here, in this lonely bay, lay the fine ship Fanchon, and
+burnt to the water’s edge. Nothing could exceed the almost awful
+profoundness of the solitude by which we were surrounded--a silence
+broken only by the roaring and crackling of the flames, as they wreathed
+and shot far upward, illuminating the midnight darkness, and casting the
+reflection of their fiery glare far out over the lonely deep,--and the
+deep roar of the eternally restless waves, as they dashed in rapid
+succession upon the beach at our feet. It is quite impossible to convey
+by language an adequate conception of the solemn magnificence of this
+midnight scene. The burning ship in the foreground, the light from which
+revealed the sublime altitude of the mountains in the background, whose
+barren heads seemed to pierce the sky, every object distinctly
+daguerreotyped; the rocks on either hand, laved for ages by the white
+sea-foam; the bald and inaccessible cliffs in close proximity, in the
+rear; and twenty-six human beings (myself numbering the only female)
+standing upon the narrow beach, viewing silently the work of
+destruction, rapidly progressing, which deprived us of a home, and the
+necessary sustenance required to support life,--only a skilful artist,
+with his pencil and brush, could do justice to the picture here drawn.
+By three o’clock that night, nought remained to mark the spot--where, a
+few hours previous, lay the gallant ship--but a smoking hulk.
+
+I sank into an unquiet slumber superinduced by exhaustion, fairly cried
+myself to sleep, and rested my weary limbs upon a couch of beach-sand.
+Next morning, we discovered several rafts (or, as they are there
+denominated, balsas) coming into the bay. They were covered with
+Indians--a sort of mongrel race, who live principally upon their balsas,
+scarcely ever visiting the shore except to procure water and potatoes.
+They subsist mostly upon raw fish. They speak the Spanish language. They
+anchored their crafts outside the surf, then dove into the water, and
+swam to the shore. They were nearly in a state of nudity. Their
+demeanor was entirely pacific. They advanced towards us with hands
+extended, in token of friendship. They had been attracted to the spot by
+the light from the burning ship, and had assembled in considerable
+numbers, doubtless in the hope of obtaining pillage, as they rather
+demurred in rendering any assistance, unless stimulated by a promise of
+compensation. For “mucha pesos,” they agreed to furnish us with water
+and sweet potatoes while we remained upon the beach. They peremptorily
+refused to take us to Payta,--the nearest settlement, which was fifty
+miles distant,--thinking, doubtless, it would be a more profitable
+speculation for them to protract our stay upon the beach, until, at
+least, the “pesos” were all gone. I was constrained to offer my pet-goat
+to them, in exchange for water: she had long since ceased to furnish
+milk. Poor thing! after having encountered so many fiery trials, she was
+but a wreck of her former self. Much as I regretted to part with her, I
+felt it to be a duty I owed her, for past favors received, to mitigate
+her woes as far as it lay in my power. With a last, sad, lingering look
+at her mistress, and a despairing farewell bleat, she was dragged away.
+The natives informed us we were fifteen leagues from any fresh water;
+thereby giving us to understand that we were very dependent mortals.
+They then departed, promising to come on the morrow with a fresh supply.
+Their balsas are constructed of very buoyant, porous logs, bound
+together in the form of a raft; then another layer, transverse the
+former. In the centre, it is raised still higher.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Here indeed was a new phase of existence, gloomy enough in anticipation,
+yet far preferable to the dangerous scenes in which it had heretofore
+been my fortune to participate. The sailors pitched four small tents;
+two for themselves, and two for the officers. These served for a shelter
+at night; but, during the day, when the sun shone with an almost
+scorching fervency of heat, unmitigated by a single cloud on the face of
+the sky, it was almost impossible to remain in them. To augment our
+troubles, the fleas were so numerous and so blood-thirsty, that for a
+few days I was in perpetual motion. When once they made a lodgment in
+our clothing, it was useless to attempt to exterminate them; and _they_
+never capitulate. At night, upon retiring, our only preparation was to
+spread a blanket upon the sand, and lie down upon it. In the morning, we
+would find ourselves almost imbedded in the loose beach-sand; for, upon
+the dry part of the beach, it was quite deep. I would rise, and shake my
+head to dislodge the quantity of sand there collected. My hair was
+hanging unconfined over my shoulders, having lost comb, hair-pins, and
+bonnet. I would walk down to the shore of the Pacific,--an ample
+wash-bowl, certainly,--and perform my ablutions, dispensing, of
+necessity, with all the modern appurtenances of a lady’s toilet.
+
+Captain Lunt proposed to send to the American Consul at Payta for
+assistance to remove us from the beach. His mate, Mr. McCrelles, of
+Belfast, Maine, volunteered to go, accompanied by four of the sailors.
+The next day after our arrival there, they embarked on their voyage to
+obtain the relief we so much needed. Their directions were, to keep
+close in shore; and, with God’s blessing, they would arrive at Payta,
+and assistance would reach us at the expiration of a week. We watched
+the little boat until she looked like a speck upon the water; and, with
+many an unuttered prayer for her safe arrival, we turned our thoughts
+landward,--I to amuse myself by selecting the most beautiful shells I
+could find: they were very numerous among the rocks at each extremity of
+the beach. I was never lonely: I found companions in my own thoughts;
+and they were oftentimes pleasanter than the gayer ones of the world
+would have been, for they whispered of home and loved friends.
+
+There was the skeleton of a whale perfect, and entirely exposed. How
+long the remains of this huge aquatic monster had been bleaching under
+the scorching rays of that tropical sun, we had no means of
+ascertaining.
+
+The Indians faithfully kept their promise, and each succeeding day they
+visited us with a plentiful supply of water and potatoes; the bill of
+fare varied occasionally by the introduction of some very offensive
+fowl, which they positively asserted were “esta bueno.” An amusement in
+which I often indulged was to chase innumerable crabs, with which the
+beach was literally covered in the mornings. They would, upon the first
+intimation of pursuit, disappear instantly into their holes in the hard
+sand. By remaining perfectly quiet for some time, they would again
+assemble in numbers, which the least movement on my part would again put
+to flight. They would make greater progress running sideways than I
+could any way; therefore, I never caught one.
+
+The pig remained secreted in his cavernous retreat, which no entreaties
+on our part could induce him to vacate. Not until driven to the last
+extremity by the pangs of hunger, did he venture to reconnoitre from the
+aperture. After viewing his companions in distress for a little time, he
+gained sufficient courage to eat potatoes from my hand. After that, he
+became quite domesticated, and, with the hen, used to share the sailors’
+tent with them at nights.
+
+During this time, I was unconsciously assuming the dark and swarthy hue
+of the native women, from being constantly exposed to the scorching
+glare of a tropical sun. My habiliments, too, were becoming exceedingly
+soiled, from constant use both by night and day.
+
+The love and spirit of adventure had, from earliest infancy, been
+strongly implanted in my nature; and, during this voyage, certainly,
+this predilection for thrilling adventure had been amply gratified. Yet,
+had not the fiery ordeal through which it had pleased the God of love to
+bring me been for good, it would have been averted.
+
+A week had now elapsed since the departure of the boat. Intently we
+scanned the ocean, in the hope of descrying the anxiously expected sail.
+Nights, at the hour of twilight, I would seat myself upon the rocks to
+indulge in the reveries which that most fitting hour for reflection
+usually calls up. The mind feels a soothing influence as the light of
+day fades gradually from sight. At such times memory is busy with the
+past--the distant home, the loved friends there assembled. I often
+wandered in this way through the spirit-land of old times. One night I
+was startled by the exultant cry of “A sail! a sail!” Being fearful lest
+some casualty had befallen the boat, and she had never reached Payta,
+Captain Lunt deemed it advisable to make signals, in the hope of
+attracting attention. She kept on her way, apparently unmindful of the
+signals which she could not but have seen, as the captain had sent up a
+rocket, which he had preserved in the water-proof chest. Darkness now
+hid her from our view; and we sat down, wondering that no answering
+signal had been displayed to our call for succor.
+
+We repaired to our tent with our minds illy reconciled to passing
+another night victims to the insatiable fleas, whose cry still was,
+Blood, blood. All at once we heard the clanking of chains letting go an
+anchor. All rushed out, and there lay a dark object in the offing. Soon
+we heard the splash of oars; and in a short time Mr. McCrellis, his
+countenance beaming with smiles, stood in our midst. He was accompanied
+by Captain Hillman, originally of New Bedford. His bark had been
+chartered by the American consul to come to our rescue. The next morning
+we bade farewell to rocks, and sand, and fleas, and repaired on board
+the bark, where, for the first time since leaving the Fanchon, I caught
+a glimpse of my sun-burned, swarthy countenance. The poisonous bite of
+the fleas had contributed their share towards imparting to my skin the
+appearance of a person suffering from measles, small-pox, and erysipelas
+combined.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+As you enter the harbor of Payta from sea, the town presents a most
+uninviting appearance. It is built at the base of sand hills. The houses
+have the appearance of mud huts; the roofs covered with tile. Upon a
+nearer approach, not a green thing can be discovered except the
+balconies of some of the finer houses. The consul, tired, as he said, of
+eternally seeing sand hills and sand-colored dwellings, had relieved the
+monotony of the scene by substituting green paint wherever an
+opportunity presented. At this time the town numbered about four
+thousand inhabitants. They came to an anchor some distance from the
+shore, and were soon surrounded by boats. The English, French, and
+American consuls came on board, each equally desirous of giving us a
+home, and contributing in any way to render our stay with them as
+pleasant as possible. We repaired to the house of the American
+consul--Mr. Ruden, of New York, who has a mercantile house established
+there. This house is very spacious, constructed upon the Spanish plan of
+architecture, and constructed wholly after the manner of South American
+houses. The whole front of the lower part is appropriated to business.
+
+A wide and pleasant balcony surrounds the entire house at the second
+story. Large windows, and still larger doors, open upon this balcony,
+and render it an airy and delightful residence. From this balcony you
+have a fine view of the harbor, dotted with ships of almost every
+nation. In addition--and not a very pleasant auxiliary, to be sure--are
+multitudes of natives constantly sea-bathing, and frolicking in the
+water. I often wondered if some of them were not really amphibious. Mr.
+Ruden’s household consisted of himself and four gentlemen belonging to
+the firm. All his servants were male natives, and he employed quite a
+number, with a major domo to superintend them. Upon entering the
+spacious parlor, my attention was attracted to the portrait of a lady
+with such a pleasant expression of countenance that I hoped the original
+was not far distant. In this, however, I was disappointed. It was a
+portrait of Mr. Ruden’s mother, a resident of New York city. Mr. Ruden
+was a bachelor; thus again was I deprived of female companionship.
+Eighteen years of his life had been passed in South America, where he
+had amassed quite a fortune.
+
+I often availed myself of the use of Mr. Ruden’s library. In this room
+was suspended a hempen hammock, in which I enjoyed many a delightful
+siesta. The bedsteads were all of polished brass, and very beautifully
+curtained with bright-colored satin. Some of them cost as high as one
+thousand dollars. The pillow-slips and counterpanes were solid
+embroidery, executed by the delicate hands of the lovely Spanish
+señoritas. They were placed on the beds over a lining of pink or blue
+cambric, thereby displaying to great advantage the fine needle-work.
+Even the toilet-towels were embroidered at each end a quarter of a yard
+in depth, and then fringed. We breakfasted at ten o’clock, and dined at
+five, P.M. At nine, P.M., a servant would bring us a most excellent cup
+of tea, which we generally enjoyed seated upon the balcony. Through the
+day we were regaled with all the delicious fruits indigenous to a
+tropical clime, among which were several kinds I had never before
+tasted--the palta and cherrymoyer. The first-named is shaped something
+like cucumber, and is eaten with pepper and salt. The flavor of the
+cherrymoyer is perfectly delicious. This fruit is about the size of the
+largest kind of Baldwin apple, and very pulpous. The fruit, together
+with the water, and all the vegetables consumed in Payta, and all with
+which the shipping is supplied, is transported across a desert of
+sixteen miles in width, upon mules’ backs, from a town called Piura--a
+perfect garden of Eden, through which flows a pellucid river. When the
+ladies of Payta visit Piura to refresh themselves with a sight of the
+beautiful in nature, they are transported in a palanquin, which is
+rested upon the shoulders of natives. On the desert there is not a tree
+or shrub to mark one’s course. It is deep sand, from which footprints
+are quickly erased. A pocket-compass is indispensable in crossing.
+
+There was a church near to Mr. Ruden’s house, which I often
+frequented--at the matin hour, and again at vespers--to get a view of
+the lovely brunettes, who, with heads uncovered, were kneeling in every
+direction, upon soft mats brought every day by a servant, following in
+close proximity to the señora or señorita. I admire their style of
+beauty. The clear olive complexion; the soul and sympathy which beam
+from their dark, lustrous eyes; their long, black, glossy hair; their
+natural ease, grace, and warmth of manner; the lip so full of sentiment
+and love, that, if the eyes were closed, the face would retain its
+exquisite expression; their vivacity of manner in conversation--_all_
+unite to form a lovely and fascinating woman.
+
+The walls of the churches are hung with coarse paintings, and engravings
+of the saints, etc., etc. The chancel is decorated with numerous images
+and symbolic ornaments used by the priests in their worship. Gold paper
+and tinsel in barbaric taste are plastered without stint upon nearly
+every object that meets the eye. When, on festive occasions, the church
+is lighted, it presents a very glittering appearance. The tastes and
+predilections of the priests are totally unlike what one would suppose
+their sacred offices would instigate. I have seen a priest leave the
+church, walk directly to his house, take two fighting-cocks, one under
+each arm, and repair to the scene of cock-fighting, and there spend
+hours in betting.
+
+While at Payta, the United States sloop-of-war Vincennes, Commander
+Hudson, arrived in port. The officers frequently dined with Mr. Ruden.
+By invitation of Captain Hudson, we all dined on board the Vincennes. We
+were welcomed alongside by a salute of twenty-one guns--a compliment
+usually conferred upon a consul when he visits ships of the line. We
+spent the afternoon most agreeably; and the refined hospitality,
+courteous manners, intelligent and interesting conversation of our host,
+made us regret the rapidly fleeing moments. It was a beautiful moonlight
+eve when we left the Vincennes in the captain’s barge, rowed by those
+men-of-war sailors, dressed with such uniform neatness. Not a ripple
+disturbed the placid and glossy surface of the water. At night so pure
+is the atmosphere, that the moon gives a light sufficiently powerful
+for the purposes of the reader or student who has good eyesight. There
+is no necessity of burning the “midnight oil;” nature here lights the
+lamp for the bookworm. So phosphorescent is the water, that every dip of
+the oars is followed by a stream of light resembling fire. When we were
+at Payta, we were informed that no rain had fallen during the preceding
+seven years. We met there a friend from whom we had parted on the broad
+Pacific, never expecting to meet again--Captain McKenzie. Yes! the
+pleasant Scotch captain we left on board the Symmetry. Captain Thompson
+had faithfully fulfilled the stipulation to leave them near the port of
+Valparaiso. From thence he had taken passage in an English steamer bound
+to Panama, and from there he would cross the isthmus, proceed to New
+York, and from there to England. The steamer touched at Payta to remain
+an hour, and Captain McKenzie stepped on shore to have a view of the
+town. Nearly the first persons he saw were Captain Lunt and my husband.
+When he parted from us last, we were bound to San Francisco. Judge,
+then, of his astonishment at meeting them there. He knew at once some
+unforeseen calamity had driven them from their course. From previous
+events his thoughts naturally reverted to fire; and his first
+exclamation was, “My God! you have been burnt out again!” Too true. All
+was then explained. There they met, at a port neither of them intended
+to visit--the three captains who had lost their ships by fire. He paid
+me a passing visit at the house, then departed on his way to his distant
+home, to gladden the anxious hearts of wife and children. I have never
+seen or heard from him since. But, whenever my thoughts revert to him,
+the recollection is always flavored with old Scotch whiskey.
+
+The bark Carbargo, Captain Barstow, was loading at Payta for Panama. The
+captain was a native of Pembroke, Mass., and, being acquainted with our
+friends at home, felt quite an interest in our welfare. He very kindly
+offered to give us a passage to Panama. Upon his assuring me he had not
+a cargo of coal, but mules, sheep, and fowl instead, I felt I might
+safely trust myself once more on board another vessel. It was a lovely
+day we bade good-bye to Mr. Ruden and other friends, with whom we had
+passed many pleasant hours during a four weeks’ sojourn at Payta. I had
+changed somewhat in my personal appearance since first I beheld those
+everlasting sand-hills. My wardrobe, too, had been replenished. I was
+really a gainer by my temporary stay at Payta, and departed with a
+lighter heart. Hope seemed to whisper of a cloudless to-morrow. How
+wisely ordered, how characteristic of our natures, to hope on, hope
+ever! When Hope deserts her throne, we are, indeed, like a lost mariner
+without chart or compass.
+
+Here we are again on ship-board; and I have no better business, all
+these long summer days, than to watch those thirty large mules, ranged
+along the deck, fifteen on a side, their heads facing the vessel’s rail,
+with just a path between the rows. They were the finest-looking mules I
+ever saw. The South American mule is larger, as a general thing, than
+the Mexican mule. The captain anticipated realizing a handsome sum for
+them. They were in excellent order, and were blessed with such nice long
+tails, which is considered quite an acquisition. One morning early, I
+heard such a loud talking on deck, and in no very pleasant tones either,
+I conjectured something awful had happened. I soon ascertained the cause
+of the clamor. One of the mules had broken his fastening in the night,
+and, not being discovered, had the extreme audacity to deprive nearly
+all his brother mules of their dearly prized appendages, eating the
+hair square off, up to the fleshy part of their tail. It appears they
+invariably practise this habit whenever they can get them in a position
+where they can make no resistance. The sheep were between decks. The
+heat must have been almost insupportable. They would gather round the
+wind-sail with their noses up, panting terribly. It was not an agreeable
+cargo; yet I had no fears of spontaneous combustion, although I
+afterwards learned there was coal in for ballast.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+Upon arriving in the harbor of Panama, we came to an anchor about two
+miles from the city. Ships scarcely ever go nearer on account of rocks.
+It is not a very good harbor for vessels to lie in with safety, it is so
+open. At anchor close by us was the ship Marianna, of San Francisco,
+Captain Rossiter. He recognized my husband as an old acquaintance,
+invited us on board his ship, where he was enjoying the society of his
+wife and an interesting little child. Captain Rossiter informed us he
+was going to take his ship down to Taboga, an island which lies about
+ten miles from Panama. The P. M. S. S. Co. have a depot there. All the
+steamers, when in port, lie there. The shipping frequent this place to
+get a supply of water, which gushes in clear rivulets down the sides of
+the mountains. A little steamer plies constantly between Taboga and
+Panama for the accommodation of passengers, who are constantly flocking
+from the miasma-infected city of Panama, to inhale the health-breathing
+zephyrs of this island retreat. The shore is very bold. Ships of the
+largest tonnage lie within a stone’s throw of the shore. Nearly all the
+washing is carried from the city, and here cleansed in the running
+streams by the native women, and spread upon the bushes to dry. At this
+time there were three hotels there, and quite a number of native
+populace. Since the time I allude to, they have been visited by a
+destructive fire. It has been rebuilt, however. We spent one happy week
+here. Daily Mrs. Rossiter and myself wandered up and down the mountain’s
+side, protected from the sun’s rays by the umbrageous foliage which
+formed a complete net-work above our heads. Here grew the cocoa-nut and
+pine-apple. The monkeys chattered and swung from branch to branch above
+our heads. The parrot and paroquet screamed at us from their leafy
+habitations. Birds of beautiful plumage were carolling their sweetest
+notes, giving to these sylvan mountain-slopes a truly vivifying
+appearance. Here, thought I, in company with loved ones, could I dream
+away a happy existence. The impersonations of romance and solitude could
+scarcely find a more congenial abode than this beautiful and sequestered
+isle. At the expiration of this memory-treasured week, which was,
+indeed, an oasis in the waste over which I had been wafted, we returned
+to an anchor at Panama. That night I was suddenly and severely attacked
+with what was conceded to be, by all, Panama fever of the most malignant
+kind. The next day I was carried on shore, through the city, to a house
+outside the city gates, owned by a gentleman from New Orleans. For the
+use of one furnished room and board, the sum of forty dollars per week
+was required. It was a large, barn-like dwelling. Nearly all the rooms
+were rented to Spaniards. The partitions which divided the house into
+apartments only extended to a height sufficient to conceal the occupants
+from one another, without in the least obviating the noise and
+disturbance naturally occurring from so many living under one roof.
+Even this tenement, rough as it was, far exceeded, in point of
+cleanliness and healthy location, the crowded, and at that time filthy,
+hotels of the city. Ours was a corner room in the second story, fronting
+the street. Large doors, very much resembling barn-doors, opened from
+two sides of the room upon a balcony, that indispensable appendage to
+all the dwellings situated in tropical climes. Every breath of air which
+fanned my burning brow seemed wafted from a heated furnace. For days I
+lay a victim to that consuming fever, part of the time in blissful
+unconsciousness. I say blissful, because my thoughts wandered to my
+distant home, and I was relieved, for the time being, from the agonizing
+thoughts that in intervals of reason obtruded themselves upon me. I was
+attended by no physician. Captain Rossiter administered dose after dose
+of calomel, until my system was completely prostrated. Well was it for
+me that my knowledge of the Spanish language was so limited; otherwise I
+might have been shocked by the language of some of the inmates of the
+house. Every footfall, every loud word, echoed and reverberated through
+that hollow building, sending, at each recurrence, a pang of agony
+through my burning brain. Fear, too, would assert her sway when left
+alone, as I oftentimes was. For nearly two weeks the fever raged
+incessantly; after which time, I gradually convalesced.
+
+When raised by pillows in my bed, I had a view of the street leading to
+the rear gates of the city, and day after day could I see the silent
+dead borne to their last resting-place. At that time, Panama was crowded
+with Americans waiting to be conveyed to the gold-studded placers of
+California. Alas! many of the number never reached the goal they so
+ardently desired, and for which they had sacrificed their own happiness,
+and that of those dearer to them than aught else except gold, the yellow
+dust of temptation. Truly it may be said to be “the root of all evil,”
+when it allures thousands from their peaceful homes, to meet an untimely
+death. Reflections such as these had a decided tendency to depress still
+more my already despondent heart. My recovery, at times, was considered
+doubtful. It was too sickly to entertain the idea of remaining there
+longer than was absolutely necessary. I was too weak to attempt to cross
+the Isthmus; therefore, all hope of returning home was abandoned.
+
+It was decided to take passage at once for San Francisco. We remained
+one month at Panama. During the last two or three days of our stay, I
+walked a short distance each day. One of our walks we extended as far as
+the burying-ground. What a shunned and desolate spot was that American
+burial-ground at Panama,--a mere necessary receptacle of lifeless flesh
+and crumbling bones,--not even a stone raised to mark the last
+resting-place of the many loved friends who had breathed their last sigh
+in a strange land, and by strangers been consigned to mother earth! A
+little piece of board was sometimes reared, with the name, age, and
+place of residence, marked thereon; but often this little mark of
+respect and affection had been displaced by mules, numbers of which are
+constantly grazing among the graves. No inclosure protects these often
+nameless mounds; straggling bushes struggle with rank and choking weeds
+that overtop them. The whole place bears a deserted, forsaken
+aspect--untrodden by the feet of memory and love. It is within sight of
+the bay, whose waters, as they eternally dash against the shore, seem to
+be chanting a requiem for the departed. The evening before we left
+Panama, our attention was attracted by what we conceived to be a
+torch-light procession, issuing from the city gate. Upon a nearer
+approach, it proved to be a funeral cortege. First came several
+horsemen bearing torches; these were followed by a band of music,
+playing very lively, heart-stirring strains; then came an open bier,
+carried by natives, upon which was borne the lifeless remains of a sweet
+little cherub, a lovely Spanish child--lovely even in death. It seemed
+to be in a sitting posture. In each hand was placed a wax candle;
+wreaths of flowers entwined its angelic brow, and were strewn in rich
+profusion upon the bier. Innumerable wax tapers were inserted around the
+outer edge of the bier, which shed an ethereal halo upon the little form
+of clay, which had so recently been the pride and joy of fond parents.
+Then followed another company of equestrians and pedestrians. It had the
+appearance of some joyous festive scene rather than a funeral
+procession. And, truly,
+
+    “Why should we mourn for the child early called
+     From the sin and the suffering of this darkened world?
+     Though ties of affection may early be riven,
+     Why wish back on earth the dear loved one in heaven?”
+
+Oh, how I suffered, while at Panama, for a draught of cold water, to
+allay that feverish, burning thirst which seemed to be consuming the
+very life-blood in my veins! By the time they could get the clear, cool
+water from the gurgling rivulets of Taboga to Panama, it would be tepid,
+and I would turn from it in disgust. Often, in my hours of delirium,
+would I fancy myself at home, travelling again the little school path. I
+would arrive at the running brook which wandered through green meadows,
+and was spanned by a rustic bridge, over which, for twelve happy years,
+our little feet had skipped each day, on the way to and from school.
+Then I would fancy myself leaning far over the grassy brink--so far, I
+could touch my lips to the transparent surface, and imbibe draught after
+draught of the sparkling liquid. Pleasing hallucination! too quickly
+dispelled by returning reason. In my lucid moments, I was ever thinking
+of the old well at home, and wishing for _one_ drink from the
+“moss-covered bucket.” I felt it would save my life, when all else
+should prove abortive. One who has never been prostrated by fever in a
+burning tropical clime, when it was utterly impossible to obtain ice or
+cool water, can scarcely conceive of the torture and agony endured.
+Every breath of air is a simoom to the sufferer. My principal sustenance
+was the banana and plantain.
+
+We took passage in the steamer Republic for San Francisco. The price of
+our tickets at that time were six hundred dollars. The Republic was
+commanded by Captain William Hudson, a son of the commander of the
+sloop-of-war Vincennes. He was a lieutenant in the navy, but was then
+enjoying a furlough of four years, which he improved by taking charge of
+the Republic.
+
+I saw nothing of the city of Panama except what met the eye in passing
+through its narrow streets,--more properly, lanes,--bounded on either
+side by high, prison-looking buildings, with iron bars in lieu of
+window-sashes. Plenty of naked natives, all eager to carry us on board
+in their bungoes (boats),--a noisy, wrangling set they were,--assembled
+there upon the beach. Immediately upon reaching the steamer, I repaired
+to my state-room, and, in an exhausted state, was assisted into my
+berth. I remained in this situation through all the hurry and bustle
+incident to the departure of an ocean steamer, but then was fated to be
+disturbed in a manner I little dreamed of. A lady came to the
+state-room, and very unceremoniously demanded my berth, saying her
+ticket, which she had purchased in New York, called for it. Here was a
+dilemma! The ticket calling for that berth had been sold twice. Captain
+Hudson was called to the rescue. He decided I should not be removed. He
+had previously been informed of the series of accidents that had
+befallen us on our eventful voyage, and declared, laughingly, that,
+unless routed by fire, I should not be molested. He offered to provide
+the lady from New York with another room; which she obstinately refused
+to occupy, vehemently averring that she would lie upon the cabin-floor,
+and prosecute the company for practising such duplicity. This threat she
+put in execution upon her arrival at San Francisco, and received
+compensation to the amount of several thousand dollars.
+
+Upon getting out to sea, my recovery was visibly accelerated by the
+invigorating sea-breezes and cheerful companionship of our
+fellow-voyagers. I made many pleasant acquaintances, and formed
+friendships which have endured to the present,--not the fashionable
+friendship of an hour, which dishonor the name, but attachments that
+have stood the test of adversity and misfortunes. The steamer Republic
+had on board four hundred passengers. Thirty out of this number were
+ladies,--the largest number which, at that time, had been taken on board
+any one steamer to San Francisco. There were but very few of them
+accompanied by their husbands; the remainder were going to meet their
+liege lords, from whom they had been separated, some two years and
+longer. It was very amusing to listen to the various conjectures
+advanced as to the probability of their being recognizable, after being
+for so long a time strangers to the hair-clipping propensity of the
+razor. In those early days of California hair-producing memory, when the
+passion for gold-hunting completely absorbed all other faculties, but
+very little time or attention was expended upon their persons.
+
+The steamer put into Acapulco to coal up. The harbor reminded me
+somewhat of Port Stanley, although it is not quite so completely
+land-locked. The natives swam off to the ship in numbers; while the
+passengers amused themselves by throwing over pieces of money, which, as
+it was sinking, they dove after, and obtained with surprising dexterity.
+They appeared again upon the surface, in an incredibly short space of
+time, with their dark countenances illumined by a grin, illustrative of
+much delight, holding high the hand, and displaying the rescued coin.
+Then they would deposit it quickly in their mouths, and be in readiness
+for another dive. The most successful one was easily detected by his
+protuberant cheeks. To deceive, one of the passengers threw over a
+button. Upon discovering the deception practised, no enticement could
+afterwards induce them to dive after what fell from his hand. Their
+discriminating powers must be very acute to recollect the countenance of
+that gentleman among so many strange faces. We remained nearly one day
+at Acapulco, which most of the passengers improved by wandering through
+the town and its suburbs.
+
+Not having recovered my health sufficiently to endure a tiresome tramp,
+I only saw that part of the town in immediate proximity to the harbor. I
+was very favorably impressed, however. It was the cleanest, neatest,
+most cheerful-looking Spanish town I had ever beheld. Shops of every
+description met the eye, almost bewildering the senses with the
+multifarious display. The cafés at every corner sent out a cheering
+welcome to the olfactory organ; the bazaar was thronged with people
+displaying fruit in all its stages, sufficient, if partaken of, to
+prostrate the whole ship’s company; and the incomprehensible jargon of
+the venders reminding one of (as some express it) “bedlam let loose.”
+Sometimes one feels half inclined to purchase, if for nought else than
+to win one of those irresistible smiles from the señorita in attendance.
+
+Upon entering the harbor, the first thing that met my eye was the ship
+Symmetry, which came to our deliverance off Cape Horn. She had, after a
+tedious voyage, reached her destination. Capt. Thompson recognized us
+from the deck of the Symmetry, and came on board to see me. He informed
+me his crew were all in the lock-up, and there he intended to keep them,
+to ensure better behavior in future. He looked really care-worn, from
+continued and incessant trials. I pitied him more than I liked him. We
+wondered at his coming to see us. I never saw him more.
+
+Soon we were again steaming our way along the coast to San Francisco.
+One night, we were all startled from our slumbers by the quick ring of
+the fire-bell, and the wild shout of “Fire! fire!” ringing loud and
+clear from the deck. Oh, what a rushing and screaming with the ladies!
+what terrified looks, as they crowded and pushed one another up the
+stairs, in mad haste to gain the deck! It was a scene of terrible
+confusion; in the midst of which I stopped to put on shoes and
+stockings. I say not this to boast of more self-possession or calmness
+in moments of peril than naturally belongs to the sex; but, having been
+so often subjected to the fiery ordeal during that eventful year, I had
+learned to expect it as a matter of course, and was not so startled or
+unprepared by the recurrence of such an event as those more favored,
+who had recently left pleasant homes, and had encountered nought but
+sunshine. It appeared one of the waiters had gone to the engineer’s room
+(which was upon deck) to draw alcohol from a cask. It ignited by a spark
+from the lamp; the cask exploded, and set fire to the room. The boy
+rushed out in terror, rang the bell, and cried “Fire!” at the top of his
+voice. One of the engineers, who was in bed at the time, was severely
+burned. The greatest confusion prevailed for awhile, after the
+passengers gained the deck _en masse_. Some sprang to the boats,
+attempting to cut away the lashings, and were only deterred from
+committing this dastardly act through fear of having a bullet put
+through their heads. Several amusing and ludicrous incidents transpired
+also. One man took his umbrella in one hand, and carpet-bag in the
+other, and was caught in the act of jumping overboard. A Jew, who had on
+board goods to the amount of several thousand dollars, was offering them
+to any one for a bid of three hundred dollars, and cash down. The old
+adage, “the ruling passion strong in death,” was here verified.
+
+It was pronounced at once by all the ladies, that I must be the “Jonah;”
+and really I began to think there might be some truth in the assertion.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+The last of April, 1851, after an eventful and tedious voyage, we
+approached the entrance to the harbor of San Francisco, appropriately
+denominated the “Golden Gate.” The entrance is about a mile and a half
+in breadth. The waters of the bay appear to have opened for themselves a
+passage through the elevated ridge of hills next to the shore of the
+Pacific, which rise abruptly on either side of the opening. There is
+always depth of water sufficient to admit ships of the largest size; and
+so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the harbor,
+that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety, in all kinds of
+weather. The harbor is sufficient to accommodate all the navies in the
+world. As the emigrant approaches California from the ocean, Monte
+Diabolo is the first land by which the eye is greeted. It is situated in
+Contra Costa county, sixty or seventy miles distant from Sacramento, in
+a south-westerly direction. According to the best information obtained,
+the altitude of this mountain is about five thousand feet above the
+level of the sea. It stands at the north-western termination of the
+inner coast range, disjointed and isolated, and, like most of its bleak
+and sterile companions, is rent by deep fissures and yawning chasms,
+which give it the appearance rather of a cluster of small mountains than
+one ponderous pile. But little is yet known of the geological history of
+Monte Diabolo, or the “Mountain of the Devil.” San Francisco is situated
+on the south side of the entrance, fronting on the bay, about six miles
+from the ocean. The bay, from the city of San Francisco due east, is
+about twelve miles in breadth. A range of high hills bounds the view on
+the opposite side. Between them and the shore is a broad and fertile
+plain, called the Contra Costa. Quite a little village had sprung up
+there, on the shore of the bay, when I last saw the place, called
+Oakland.
+
+Yerba Buena (sweet herb) is an island in the bay, and almost directly
+fronting the city of San Francisco, a mile or so distant. There are
+several small islands in the bay. Opposite San Francisco, on the north
+side of the bay, is a place called Sausolito where, at an early period
+in the history of San Francisco, vessels repaired, preparatory to
+sailing, to take in their water. Now, water-boats are plying between
+Sausolito and the city, affording ample remuneration for the toil. On
+the righthand side of the bay, as you are approaching the city, is
+situated the Presidio of San Francisco. It consists of several blocks of
+adobe buildings, covered with tiles. The walls of most of the buildings
+are crumbling for the want of care in protecting them from annual rains.
+
+At a distance of a mile and a half from the entrance to the bay, are the
+remains of an old fort. It is fast going to decay, daily threatening a
+complete ruin. The guns are dismounted, and some of them are half
+decomposed from exposure to the weather. When I passed through the
+Golden Gate for the last time, there was in process of erection a
+fortification on one of the bluffs commanding the entrance. Outside, lay
+the wreck of the clippership Golden Fleece; the ceaseless motion of the
+waves chanting a requiem over her remains.
+
+At San Francisco, during the summer and autumnal months, the wind blows
+directly from the ocean, rendering the temperature cool enough in the
+afternoon for woollen clothing, in midsummer. The mornings are usually
+calm and pleasantly warm. About sunset, the wind dies away, and the
+nights are comparatively calm. In winter months, the wind blows in soft,
+balmy breezes from the southeast; the thermometer rarely sinking below
+50 deg. When the winds blow from the ocean, it never rains. When they
+blow from the land it is lowery, and resembles that of the month of May,
+in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The coolness of the climate,
+and briskness of the air, are confined to particular localities on the
+coast; and this description is not applicable to the interior of the
+country, or even to other places on the coast.
+
+Such a hurry, such a bustle, so much excitement! We are nearing the
+wharf at San Francisco. What crowds of men assembled upon the pier,
+ready to rush on board as soon as the steamer is made fast! I almost
+envied those who were going to meet loved friends. We knew none, to give
+us a cheerful greeting, in that city of strangers.
+
+Mrs. B----, a lady who was accompanied by her husband, and myself seated
+ourselves upon deck, to witness the meetings. So many joyful tears were
+shed, such heartful embraces! Fathers caressing little ones they had
+never before seen; they in turn frightened half out of their wits at
+finding themselves in the arms of such frightful objects. Sometimes we
+could scarcely repress the tears at witnessing some affecting scene; at
+others, constrained to laugh outright at some really ludicrous sight.
+One delighted husband said, “Why don’t you kiss me, Bessy?” She stood
+gazing at this hirsute representation of her better half in utter
+astonishment; then timidly ejaculated, “I can’t find any place.” “Oh!”
+said Mrs. B----, sportively, “they will all get a kiss but you and me.”
+Almost instantly a gentleman sprang to her side, cordially greeting her,
+and even bestowing a kiss. I was almost stupefied at such audacity, for
+at first she seemed not to recognize him. Soon the air of astonishment,
+and even of alarm, resigned its place upon her countenance to the glad
+smile of recognition. He was an old friend, whom she had not seen for
+years. He thought he recollected her countenance; then the sound of her
+voice confirmed his preconceptions. I felt greatly relieved when I found
+it was not the custom in California for the gentlemen to kiss all the
+ladies they fancied, whether acquainted or not.
+
+My husband and myself, by invitation of the captain, concluded to remain
+on board that night. He insisted upon our occupying his room in his
+absence, as business called him ashore. “Everything,” said he, “is at
+your disposal, except my tooth-brush.”
+
+Next morning, upon going ashore, my husband met a cousin of ours, who
+was residing in Happy Valley. He came immediately on board, and
+insisted upon our going at once to his house. This cordial invitation we
+at once accepted. Mr. B----had emigrated to California in 1849, and
+there married.
+
+How unique to me seemed everything in San Francisco, when first I paced
+its sandy streets leading to Happy Valley! They were building up the
+water-lots rapidly. The old ship Niantic, of Boston, seemed quite up
+town. Upon the deck of this condemned ship was reared quite an imposing
+edifice, bearing the signature of the Niantic Hotel. Streets were
+extended far beyond it, bayward. The interstices between some of these
+streets were not yet filled. I grow dizzy even now, thinking about it.
+In our haste to reach Happy Valley, and avoid, as far as lay in our
+power, those interminable sand-hills, it was proposed to cross one of
+those interstices on a hewn timber, which, at least, must have been
+nearly one hundred feet, and at a height of twelve feet, I should think,
+from the green slimy mud of the dock. I succeeded pretty well, until
+about halfway over, when, finding myself suddenly becoming very dizzy, I
+was obliged to stop, get down on my knees, and hold on to the timber. I
+was afraid to proceed, lest I should fall into the mud and water below,
+and, for the same reason, unable to retrace my steps. After much crying
+on my part, and coaxing and scolding on the part of the gentleman, I
+succeeded in reaching the terminus of the timber. That was my
+introduction into the town of San Francisco in 1851.
+
+Upon leaving, three years afterwards, I traversed that same locality. It
+had become the richest business part of the city. There were nicely
+paved walks, bounded on either side by massive granite and brick
+structures, an ornament to the city--the pride and the glory of the
+energetic pioneers, representatives from every state in the Union.
+
+Very soon after our arrival occurred the largest conflagration ever
+recorded in the annals of San Francisco. The memorable fire of the 3d of
+May, 1851, will ever be remembered by all residents of the place at that
+time with feelings of pain and commiseration. Oh! it was a night of
+intense suffering to hundreds of human beings. We were startled from our
+slumbers between the hours of eleven and twelve, by the to me familiar
+cry of “Fire!” My first thought, upon awakening, was, “I am on terra
+firma, I can run.” Fires, at that time of paper-and-cloth-architectural
+memory, raged with astonishing rapidity. Whole streets were swept away
+in less time than it would occupy to relate the events arising from the
+sad catastrophe. We were in Happy Valley, situated at that time at the
+extreme end of the town, towards Rincon Point. The fire originated as
+far in an opposite direction. Therefore people were all rushing towards
+Happy Valley, as a place offering protection.
+
+The streets were full of drays, rushing along with breakneck speed, to
+deposit goods and all kinds of merchandise in any possible place of
+safety. What rich bales of silk, and fine clothing, were tumbled
+topsy-turvy into hastily made excavations in the innumerable sand-hills
+around the valley. Some were depositing valuables in the few (what were
+then supposed to be) fire-proof buildings, which had been erected at
+considerable expense. Often buildings were on fire before the inmates,
+in their consternation, could find an article of clothing; and they
+would rush into the crowded street in their night-clothes, nearly
+distracted with the deafening shouts of the excited multitude. The wind
+seemed to blow fiercely. The insatiable flames came roaring and rushing
+onward, darting its thousand-forked tongues of fire far up into the
+midnight sky. The fire companies, what few there were, were prompt and
+energetic in action; but even _they_ were driven from their posts of
+duty, and their life-sacrificing efforts rendered abortive.
+
+In one instance, a company, with their engine, were driven to the verge
+of a wharf by the fiery pursuer. Mrs. B---- and myself were standing
+upon the door-step, witnessing with trembling hearts its nearer approach
+and nearer. It was heart-rending to witness the distress of delicate
+women, driven from their homes at midnight, with no protection from the
+chilly winds but their night-clothes, lamenting, not their own fate, but
+the uncertain fate of those near and dear to them, who were combatting
+with the fiery elements for the preservation of life and property. Oh,
+it was a sad spectacle! Yet, even amid it all, might be seen some
+heartless person divesting himself of his own soiled apparel, to be
+replaced with new, purloined from some pile of ready-made clothing. How
+much of value, that night, the dishonest ones appropriated to their own
+use!
+
+Still nearer came the flames, until only one block of buildings
+separated them from the Oriental Hotel. That once on fire, and no human
+power could save Happy Valley. All the engines were brought to play upon
+this block, which was owned by Macondry, and by him occupied as a
+warehouse. The bravely-fought struggle was viewed with varying emotions
+of hope and fear. At length the never-ceasing powers of man conquered.
+They succeeded in arresting the progress of the fire king, and the
+little hamlet of Happy Valley was preserved. At early dawn, we visited
+the scene of the fire. It would require a more graphic description than
+could ever emanate from pen of mine to do justice to the scene of
+destruction there presented. Lifeless bodies, literally burned to a
+cinder, wholly unrecognizable by nearest relatives, lay near to the
+walls of the half-demolished brick structure. They had fled to this
+building as a place of safety, thinking it to be, what all considered
+it, fire-proof. The flames raged around it with unresisting fury: the
+heat became very intense. The occupants vainly endeavored to effect an
+egress. One poor fellow rushed to remove the heated bolts, and actually
+burned all the flesh from his hands before effecting his object. Then he
+was seen to rush frantically forth into the flames, stagger, turn, and
+run a little way in an opposite direction--then fall. He was dragged
+from the flames by some daring, humane hand, and his life preserved;
+although he was maimed and crippled, and rendered blind, for life. I
+saw the poor being afterwards, and heard him relate the painful story.
+The scenes I witnessed that day might wring tears from a heart of stone.
+Men who, a few short hours before, were worth thousands and hundreds of
+thousands, now sat weeping over the ashes of their once splendid
+fortunes. Some who were not possessed of sufficient self-command and
+fortitude to meet and brave life’s severest trials, had sought
+consolation for every woe in the intoxicating cup; others sat, the
+images of mute despair, their grief too profound to permit a tear or
+sigh to escape as a mitigation of their deep-seated sorrow; some had
+already commenced fencing in their lots, although the smouldering ashes
+emitted an almost suffocating heat. These hasty proceedings were at that
+time expedient, to prevent their lots from being jumped; for these were
+the days of squatter memory, when possession was nine-tenths of the law.
+We were in pursuit of Mr. and Mrs. B----. With her I had formed a close
+intimacy on board the steamer. Her husband, previous to the fire, was
+established in a lucrative business, but who had now shared the fate of
+all. Where was Mrs. B---- and her little daughter Nelly? They were
+obliged to run in their night-clothes. Mr. B---- deposited two or three
+trunks of their most valuable clothing in one of those fire-proof
+buildings, and, of course, they were burnt, leaving them nothing which
+they could call their own out of their once abundant supply. Mrs.
+B----that night sought and found protection at an hospital kept by a
+friend of hers, a doctor from New York. The building was situated upon
+the summit of one of the many hills which surround the city, and about a
+mile from where she had lived. This distance she ran, without even shoes
+or stockings, almost dragging her little girl along, who was so
+terrified as to be almost incapable of supporting herself. After
+learning her whereabouts, I hastened to see her, and found her, where
+she was obliged to remain for the time being, in bed. I supplied her
+with a few articles of clothing from my limited wardrobe; but she being
+a much taller person than myself, we were really at a loss how to make
+her appear respectable, unless she would consent to make her debut in
+Bloomer costume. “Necessity is indeed the mother of invention;” and,
+after some crying, and a good deal more laughing, we had her equipped
+for a promenade. Then Nelly was released from “durance vile;” but it
+would have puzzled wiser heads than ours to have designated her costume.
+Poor child! how she lamented the fate of all the nice things which she
+had brought from home! This was her first great grief. The proposition
+was made to us from Mr. and Mrs. B----, to go to housekeeping in company
+with them, and take boarders. No time was to be lost: after a fire in
+California was the time for immediate action. That day we found an
+unoccupied house, a little over the ridge of the hills.
+
+The owner of this domicile had gone to the States; the agent for which
+was also absent in the mines. Therefore, our husbands had the audacity
+to take quiet possession; and, before night, we were duly installed in
+our new house. Perhaps some of my readers may have the curiosity to know
+how we so readily furnished our intended boarding-house, while nearly
+the entire city was in ruins. Well, in the house we found two bedsteads,
+with a miserable straw bed upon each; quite a good cooking-stove, with a
+few appurtenances attached; a pine table, constructed of unplaned
+boards; and old boxes, in lieu of chairs. Dishes, knives and forks, and
+spoons, we had picked up from the heterogeneous mass of half-consumed
+rubbish upon the former site of Mr. B----’s store. But, at such a time
+as that, if one could get anything to eat, he never stopped to see if
+his fork was blessed with one prong or three; and, if the knife was
+minus a handle, it was just as well, provided the blade was good. And
+then, too, a person was not particular about enjoying the luxury of both
+cup and saucer, if at any time there were more people than dishes. The
+next day, our husbands secured us as many boarders as we could
+accommodate with meals: a lodging they sought elsewhere.
+
+We were to receive twelve dollars per week for board. Don’t laugh: that
+was cheap board, when you take into consideration the exorbitant price
+of provisions. For butter we paid one dollar and a half per pound; beef
+steak, twenty-five cents per pound; and all else in proportion.
+Vegetables were sold by the pound, and dearly sold, too. I never
+prepared a meal, but what I thought of the old woman who had but one
+kettle in which to cook everything. We made coffee in the tea-kettle
+mornings; and, at night, made tea in the same.
+
+There was a well of water at some distance from the house, near the foot
+of the hill; and, oh, what a deep one it was! The bucket, which would
+contain two pailfuls, had to be drawn to the top by a windlass. The
+united exertions of Mrs. B---- and myself were scarcely sufficient to
+bring it to the top. Oh, how we have laughed, and tugged, and laughed,
+until we could tug no longer, over that old well! Our husbands were
+busily engaged at the store-lot clearing and fencing it, and erecting a
+temporary building, to be in readiness to receive a fresh supply of
+goods which was daily expected to arrive, and which, fortunately for Mr.
+B----, had had a longer passage than usual. Our boarding-house in San
+Francisco will never be forgotten; and, when reverted to, will
+invariably call up a smile, even if we are entertaining those provoking
+imps, the blues. Many times since, I have met some of those boarders at
+the tables of fashionable hotels; in which case, I was sure to receive
+some compliment in reference to the good dinners they had eaten from the
+old pine table, minus the tablecloth. The proceeds derived from keeping
+this boarding-house was decidedly insufficient remuneration for the
+amount of physical labor expended. We concluded, therefore, to seek our
+fortunes in some inland town, and nearer the mines, and perhaps at the
+mines.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+About seven weeks from the time of our arrival in San Francisco, we
+found ourselves on board one of the river steamers bound to Marysville.
+I parted with regret from Mrs. B----. We had lived, and laughed, and
+suffered together _so_ long, it was hard to separate. We met once
+afterwards, for she travelled many weary miles to visit me. Little
+Nelly, too--how I loved that child! I can see her now, in imagination,
+with her sparkling eyes and rosy cheeks, tugging along a handful of
+burnt wood for “mother to cook with.” Those were hard days for Nelly and
+Mrs. B----. Since then, Mr. B---- has amassed a splendid fortune. I
+wonder if Nelly will ever forget those days in which she was sent out
+gleaning sticks of wood and pieces of burnt boards, with which to make
+the kettle boil.
+
+The upper division of the bay of San Francisco is called the Suisun.
+Situated upon the strait connecting the two divisions, is the town of
+Benicia, on the north, and the pleasant little hamlet of Martinez, on
+the south side. How sunny and pleasant looked the valleys bordering on
+the bay! the luxuriant growth of wild oats therein affording excellent
+pasturage for the numerous herds of wild cattle roaming over the
+country. Soon we found ourselves entering the noble Sacramento. The
+river, at intervals, is fringed with timber, chiefly oak, sycamore, and
+willows. Grape-vines, and a variety of shrubbery, ornament its banks.
+The quiet, peaceful stillness which pervades all nature, as you are
+ascending this stream, has an ineffable charm, a sort of fascination, to
+the beholder. The boat stopped a short time at Sacramento city. How very
+low and flat the town appeared, in point of locality, compared with San
+Francisco,--not a single hill to relieve the eye! It presented one
+feature peculiar to all California towns at that day--a great deal of
+canvas pre-eminently conspicuous, in the shape of buildings, with signs
+attached, competing, in point of size, with the buildings which they
+graced.
+
+In some places the river is nearly half a mile in width. It makes some
+very graceful bends. The land bordering on this magnificent stream is
+very low, and subject to inundations, which is a serious impediment to
+the advancement of agriculture, to which the soil is admirably adapted.
+Three years afterwards, when sailing down this majestic stream, I
+witnessed with delight many spots of this riverside wilderness, made to
+“blossom as the rose” by the indomitable energy and unconquerable
+enterprise, in opposition to every discouragement, of the successful
+pioneers. I often wished, as some spot lovelier than another met the
+eye, that it had been my lot to have found a home in just such a sunny
+spot, far away from the noisy strife of the busy, bustling world. But I
+must not tarry too long on thy bosom, noble Sacramento, but leave thy
+allurements and beauties to be chronicled by some abler pen than mine,
+and hasten up stream to the point where Feather River, one of the
+largest tributaries of the Sacramento, unites her limpid waters with
+those of her sister river.
+
+With the name of Feather River the early Anglo-Californian associates
+the commingled sentiments of many a pleasure and pain. The rich tributes
+of gold which rewarded his toil could not compensate for the saddened
+yearnings of the heart. All that he loved on earth were far away from
+him; his condition was hazardous in the extreme; no friend, perhaps, was
+near with a solace; and, but for the inspiriting unction of a constantly
+indulged hope, even the _future_ would have been desolate and dreary.
+
+The steamer turns her prow to the right, and is gracefully cutting her
+way through the waters of Feather River. I kept constantly upon deck to
+inhale the balmy air, and to look out upon the lively and ever-changing
+landscape. Sometimes the trees would crowd the bank to the very brink;
+some gracefully bending to kiss the water; some rearing their stately
+heads high above, but stretching their wide arms over its margin; all
+faithfully mirrored far down in its glassy depth, though sometimes the
+reflections were partially obliterated, and sometimes, for a moment, the
+_whole_ was shivered into trembling fragments by the transient breeze
+that swept the surface too roughly, and the widely extended ripple from
+the wake of the steamer.
+
+There were on board several distinguished persons, who proposed a visit
+to Capt. Sutter’s ranch. This delightful residence is situated on the
+left bank of Feather River, as you are proceeding up stream. Visitors of
+distinction are landed at the foot of his garden. The steamer runs in
+close proximity to the bank fronting his dwelling. They usually give him
+a salute after landing visitors. Sometimes an answering salute is given
+from a mounted cannon standing in the centre of his garden. Near to it
+is erected a tall flag-staff. The dwelling-house is constructed of adobe
+brick, representing the Dutch style of architecture. It is completely
+embowered with shrubbery, and creeping, flowering vines. A more definite
+description of the grounds adjoining will be given hereafter, when I
+shall have visited the place, and from personal observation endeavor to
+interest the reader by delineating the beauties surrounding this lovely
+retreat of the noble-hearted old general. Captain Sutter, or, rather,
+General Sutter, as he is now titled, is a native of Switzerland, and was
+at one time an officer in the French army.
+
+He emigrated to the United States, and was naturalized. From thence,
+after a series of romantic incidents, he located himself in California,
+in the midst of numerous and hostile tribes of Indians. With a small
+party of men, which he originally brought with him, he succeeded in
+defending himself until he erected his fort. Several times, when
+besieged by hostile foes, he has subsisted upon grass alone for many
+days.
+
+The land bordering upon Feather River is more elevated than that
+bordering upon the Sacramento. Soon, far ahead, is discernible the
+dividing line in the water, where the muddy waters of the Yuba River
+mingle with the deep, blue, translucent current of Feather River.
+
+The banks of the Yuba, at its junction with Feather River, are romantic
+in the extreme. There is a thick growth of trees bestudding the banks,
+and dipping gracefully into the stream; the branches of the taller
+uniting overhead, and forming a leafy canopy, almost entirely excluding
+the rays of the sun from the smoothly gliding current. The beautiful
+weeping-willows fringing the margin, the creeping vines twining their
+tendrils around the trunks of the trees, and the variety of shrubbery,
+give it a decidedly tenebrious appearance, and keep the eye of the
+traveller, who gazes from the deck of some one of the numerous steamers
+plying the stream, constantly occupied in tracing the variety of
+features which this and similar views are constantly presenting.
+
+A short distance above the cove-shaped entrance to the Yuba River, and
+at the head of steamboat navigation, is situated the town of Marysville.
+At the time I first saw it, the sun was just gilding the tops of the
+little canvas stores surrounding the plaza. This little square seemed
+literally swarming with people, who had gathered around the landing.
+Some had resorted thither from motives of idle curiosity, to gaze at the
+people as they stepped ashore, hoping, perhaps, to recognize the form
+and features of some friend from their far-off homes. Others were drawn
+to the spot in the hope of acquiring accessions to their already
+well-filled hotels. The draymen, too, were on the spot, ready to take
+your baggage anywhere and everywhere. Their importunities were as
+unceasing as those of our hackmen at city depots and steamboat wharfs.
+Their style of conveyance was rather more primitive than comfortable.
+However, I was seated upon my trunk on a dray, ready to be drawn to any
+one of the first-class houses, which were enumerated as follows: the
+United States, Oriental, Tremont, St. Charles, etc. My husband decided
+that we should go the United States, and thither we were accordingly
+taken.
+
+I was perfectly delighted with the appearance of this little inland
+city. Every little collection of canvas stores and dwellings in
+California were denominated cities. Marysville, at that time, boasted of
+several large frame buildings, among which were the above-mentioned
+hotels. It was ranked the third city in regard to size and improvements
+in Upper California.
+
+It is useless to attempt to convey to the minds of any, except those who
+were pioneers to California, the unique appearance of those little
+bustling, business localities, in convenient proximity to mining
+districts. Such trains of pack-mules as were constantly departing (so
+heavily laden, I pitied the poor beasts from my heart) on their long and
+tedious journeys to far-distant mining regions. There, too, is seen the
+swarthy Mexican vaquero, mounted on his fleet Californian steed,
+galloping through the street, “all booted and spurred;” and oh, what
+spurs!--enough to make one cringe when they see them driven so
+mercilessly into the reeking sides of the poor beast. Then the mule and
+horse auctions at the corners of the streets, drawing together a
+motley-looking set of fellows, rough and uncouth in appearance, but
+possessing, nevertheless, noble hearts, ready hands, and, I have no
+doubt, well-filled purses, with which to assist a fellow-sufferer. I
+lived long enough in California to learn from experience never to judge
+a person by his apparel. The coarsest garb often covered the warmest
+hearts; the most sun-burned, heavily-bearded physiognomy often concealed
+the most intellectual features; for all classes had flocked
+indiscriminately to the gold regions of California.
+
+On the night of our arrival, there was a travelling theatre to open for
+the first time in Marysville; and a mounted horseman was galloping
+through the streets, announcing, at the top of his voice, the programme
+of the evening’s performance. After supper, being somewhat fatigued from
+the journey up river, I retired, but not to sleep. Such a din and
+confusion as was kept up in the street! A bowling alley and gambling
+house on the opposite side of the way each contributed their share to
+the babel-like confusion, that seemed to reign triumphant. Our room was
+situated in the front part of the building, the only access to which was
+from the balcony; and the only way of admitting any air into the room
+was by leaving open the door, which served the double purpose of window
+and door. Sometime in the night, we were aroused by some person moving
+about the room. I was terribly frightened, thinking, of course, it was
+some robber or assassin. My husband accosted the intruder with “Halloa!
+what do you want here?” The reply was, “I am coming to bed! what
+business have _you_ in my bed? Come, vamos!” and, in the mean time, he
+was making preparations to strike a light. Said my husband, “There is a
+lady here; _we_ occupy this room. Now leave instanter, or I will assist
+you.” He started to the door, muttering, “I will see the landlord about
+this; if there was not a lady here, I would see who the room belonged
+to.” As soon as he left, my husband shut and locked the door, and we
+were left unmolested, to smother until morning.
+
+It seemed, upon inquiry, that our room had been previously occupied by
+two brothers. Upon our arrival, the house being crowded, and one of the
+brothers absent for a few days, the landlord had proposed to the
+remaining one to resign his double bed for a single one, in order to
+accommodate us. The absent brother returned late in the night, and the
+bar-keeper, through negligence or ignorance, omitted to inform him of
+the change; and thereby I was frightened half out of my wits at this
+midnight intrusion.
+
+Ladies were very scarce in Marysville; at this time there were not more
+than half a dozen, at the most, who were deserving of the appellation.
+Comparatively speaking, there were no children. I had lived there more
+than a year before the merry voice of childhood gladdened my ears. There
+were no churches, no school-houses. All were intent upon the one great
+object that had lured them so far from their native land. There were
+assembled representatives from every clime and country on the face of
+the globe. The European, the Asiatic, the African, the Anglo-Saxon, the
+Sandwich-Islander, all, whose general interests and pursuits were so
+varied, had here convened for one and the same purpose--to get gold. No
+law was acknowledged except Lynch law; and the penalty for offences, so
+summarily enforced by the vigilance committees, served admirably to keep
+in check the murderous, villanous propensities of too many of the
+refugees from justice from all parts of the world. Alas! many of them
+had found a shelter in the almost inaccessible fastnesses of the
+mountains, remote from the regular settlements, and beyond the reach of
+organized vigilance committees. In the solitary recesses of the Sierra
+Nevada were little clusters of men, with nothing but the trees, and
+perhaps a little canvas tent, for shelter, and _no_ protection but their
+own strength and vigilance, possessed of large amounts of gold, where
+there was no eye to see, and no agent to pursue, the guilty. It was not
+strange, where the temptation was so great, that robbers and assassins
+were ever ready to pounce upon the unwary.
+
+Board at the United States Hotel at that time was four dollars per diem
+for the single person; therefore, with our limited means, we could
+remain here but a short time. The Tremont Hotel had been recently
+erected, and I learned the proprietors would like to find an American
+lady to superintend the domestic department. I presented myself, and
+obtained the situation. I was to receive one hundred and twenty-five
+dollars per month. In the interim, my husband was looking about,
+undetermined what business to engage in. We stopped at the Tremont five
+weeks, at the expiration of which time, my husband rented the Atlantic
+Hotel, and thither we removed. This was in July. The heat was intense,
+the thermometer ranging from 90 to 110 deg., not only day after day, but
+week after week. How I watched in vain for a cloud in the horizon! but
+not one appeared for months, to mitigate the scorching fervency of the
+heat.
+
+While stopping at the Tremont, I witnessed what to me was a novel sight;
+and if, kind reader, you will pardon the digression, I will endeavor to
+relate, in a manner which I hope will interest, the method of taming a
+wild horse. The first I saw was an unusual collection of people, and in
+their midst a horse blindfolded, with a Mexican vaquero in the act of
+mounting. When once seated on the back of these wild, fleet animals of
+the plains, it is next to an impossibility to unhorse them. From the
+nature of their pursuits and amusements, they have brought horsemanship
+to a degree of perfection challenging admiration, and exciting
+astonishment. All things being in readiness, the blinder was removed.
+The horse, for the first time in his life feeling the weight of man upon
+his back, with distended nostrils, eyes glaring like orbs of fire, and
+appearing to protrude from their sockets, gave a succession of fierce
+snorts, performed sundry evolutions which would have puzzled the master
+of a gymnasium to have imitated, and then dashed off at a furious rate,
+seemingly determined to free himself from his captor, or die in the
+attempt. It was an exciting and cruel sport to witness. The reeking
+sides of the poor beast were covered with foam and blood, which had been
+drawn by driving those merciless spurs into the flesh. Both horse and
+rider would disappear for a few moments in some distant part of the
+town, then reappear again, dashing madly on. Finally, the horse, in
+passing the Tremont Hotel, which was all thrown open in front to admit
+air, sprang, quick as a flash, upon the piazza, and dashed madly into
+the bar-room. In making his ingress so suddenly, the Mexican’s head had
+been forcibly struck against the top of the door, and he fell stunned to
+the floor. The inmates of the bar-room, numbering about twenty, fled in
+every direction. The bar-keeper, a very corpulent person, made his
+egress through a small back window--_so_ small, that, upon ordinary
+occasions, he would never have had the presumption to attempt it, as it
+was actually endangering his life by so suddenly thrusting his portly
+figure through so small an aperture; but now, out of two evils, he was
+constrained to choose the least. The horse, finding himself in
+undisputed possession of the room, stood for an instant surveying
+himself in an extensive mirror suspended behind the long marble slab.
+Then, prompted by an irresistible desire to become better acquainted
+with the image reflected in the glass, or possessing the principles of
+teetotalism to such an extent that he was bent upon immediate
+annihilation, he dashed furiously at the bar, upsetting it, and dashing
+the splendid mirror into a thousand pieces, demolishing the elegant
+cut-glass decanters, while the contents ran profusely upon the floor. He
+also dashed to pieces several large arm-chairs, valued at twelve dollars
+apiece. Then he passed through a side-door into a large saloon,
+traversed that without doing any material damage; and, when in the act
+of leaving the house, the Mexican, who had, in the meantime, recovered
+his senses and his feet also, sprang with surprising agility upon his
+back, and the race for freedom again commenced; but this time not of
+long duration. The horse, reduced almost to prostration, yielded to the
+superior power of man, and was taken, more dead than alive, to a stable,
+rubbed down, placed in a stall, fed, and petted; and, from the hour in
+which he unwillingly relinquished a life of freedom, never more to roam
+with a wild herd over broad plains and flowery vales, he was a gentle,
+submissive slave. The wild horse is gracefully formed, with flowing tail
+and mane; but I never saw one very fat--they race their flesh off. The
+man who owned the horse readily paid the expenses of refitting the
+bar-room. The amount of property he destroyed was at that time estimated
+at a thousand dollars.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+The Sierra Nevada Mountains and the coast range run nearly parallel with
+the shores of the Pacific. The first are from one hundred to two hundred
+miles from the Pacific, and the last from fifty to sixty. The valley
+between them is the most fertile portion of California. Marysville is
+situated in this valley, about twenty miles in a south-westerly
+direction from the low hills of the Sierra Nevada; which form, as it
+were, the lower steps of an immense gigantic flight, terminating upon
+the summit of a range of mountains which would not suffer in comparison
+with any of transatlantic existence.
+
+North of the city of Marysville is a plain of several miles in extent.
+This flat expanse is dotted with evergreen oaks, the shape and foliage
+of which, previous to minute examination, present an exact resemblance
+of the apple-tree. When it was impossible to procure apples at any
+price, or even after they were as low as fifty cents apiece, when
+enjoying a walk upon the plains I would be constrained, in opposition to
+my knowledge to the contrary, to look under the trees, wishing I could
+only find _one_ apple, it would have tasted so sweet.
+
+In a westerly direction from Marysville are situated the Butte
+Mountains, which present a singular appearance. They constitute one of
+the sublimest features of California scenery, rising as they do abruptly
+from the level plain which extends for miles around them. There are
+three high elevations, which, seen from a distance, might be aptly
+compared to three mountain islands, rising from the surface of the
+ocean. It is said that, standing on the top of the Butte Mountains in a
+clear day, with a telescope in hand, Monte Diabolo can be plainly seen:
+the space lying between is nearly three hundred miles. Feather River
+forms the western boundary to the city limits. The Yuba River opposite
+the plazza is wider than at any other place. When bank-full, I should
+judge it to be nearly three hundred yards in width. In the dry season,
+it is fordable for teams; and there is also a ferry across the river.
+The most of the city at first was built around the plazza, which is less
+elevated than the plain which extends back. Since then, owing to
+frequent inundations of the plazza, from which residents sustained
+material damage, they have removed most of the business houses to the
+upper part of the city. Marysville, I think, following the course of the
+river, is about two hundred miles, and perhaps two hundred and fifty,
+from San Francisco. The first rains there usually fall in November, and
+last until May. As soon as the ground becomes moistened, the grass, and
+other hardy vegetation, springs up; and, by the middle of December, the
+landscape is arrayed in a robe of fresh verdure; the plains, which,
+during the dry season, had assumed the appearance of the streets, now
+present a perfect carpet of green, as far as the eye can see. Beautiful
+flowers spring up spontaneously in every direction, gladdening the
+vision with their variegated and gorgeous colors, and, I wish I could
+add, rendering the air redolent with perfume; but, although so beautiful
+to the sight, they possess very little fragrance, if any.
+
+Deep gullies that intersect the country, and which during the dry summer
+appear as if they never saw a drop of water, now become the channels of
+rapidly rushing streams. So much do they resemble rivers, that I heard
+one novice, who made his first appearance at this season, inquire,
+pointing to one of these sloughs, “Do they catch salmon in that river?”
+Some of them are deep and miry. Teamsters, who have attempted to ford
+them, have sometimes lost their lives in the attempt. When these sloughs
+are very much swollen by heavy rains, all communication with the country
+back is cut off. The season for sowing grain commences as soon as the
+ground is sufficiently moistened to permit of ploughing, and continues
+until March. There were some fine ranches along the banks of the Yuba.
+The bottom lands are very rich and productive, yielding an excellent
+harvest of wheat, oats, and barley. Vegetables grow to an enormous
+size, and surpass in flavor any I ever before tasted. I never dreamed of
+seeing water-melons grow to such a size as I saw them here. Recollect,
+now, I only state facts. I saw one water-melon sell for twelve dollars:
+it was sold by the pound. It was the first year any had ever been raised
+in Upper California. Mr. Briggs, who raised them, told me that that
+year, from the sale of his melons alone, he realized twenty thousand
+dollars. Is it to be wondered at that miners who had been subsisting
+one, two, and perhaps three years, upon pork and beans, and ham, varied
+occasionally by a repast of flap-jacks and molasses, and once in a great
+while get a sight of a potato, should be eager to possess themselves of
+a water-melon, at any price? No one except those who were miners in the
+early days of gold-hunting can conceive of the hardships, the sacrifices
+of the necessaries of life, and sometimes of life itself, they were
+subjected to--perhaps nearly starving, with thousands of dollars’ worth
+of gold-dust in their possession. What will not a man suffer for gold?
+The first winter I passed in California proved to be the rainiest I ever
+afterwards experienced; yet that would scarcely compare with the winter
+of 1849.
+
+I must confess I never before saw it rain (I should say pour) so
+unceasingly for such a length of time,--a week, perhaps, every day and
+night, and sometimes longer; then the sun would shine out quite warm for
+a week; then rain again. The mud in the streets was perfectly awful to
+behold, but much more awful to find yourself sinking into the miry
+depths. The rain in the valley was snow in the mountains; and, forty
+miles from Marysville, the snow might be ten feet deep or more, while in
+the city it would be sufficiently warm to sit with the windows open.
+When the dry season commences, then farewell to green grass, bright
+flowers, and everything pertaining to the beautiful, and prepare
+yourself to be suffocated with dust and sand, debilitated by the
+oppressive heat, and devoured by myriads of fleas. All this, and much
+more, you must endure, if you remain in Marysville through the summer.
+But, if not engaged in business, you can flee away to the mountains, and
+in some sequestered vale enjoy the lovely scenery, the cool spring
+water, inhale the invigorating mountain air, and, for exercise, climb to
+the summits of the mountains, timbered with large pines, firs, and
+cedars, with a smaller growth of magnolia, manzanita, hawthorn, etc.,
+etc. Notwithstanding the heat is so intense during the dry season, the
+atmosphere is so pure that meat, when left exposed to the sun, never
+spoils; and, after one of those excessively hot days, the nights are
+extremely pleasant and comfortable. I never saw a night in California
+when I was deprived of refreshing slumber on account of the heat and
+oppressive atmosphere. I have known laboring men at work there digging
+cellars, when the thermometer in the place where they were at work would
+rise to 125 deg.; and yet those people could endure to work there, day
+after day, when, to work in such hot days in our climate, and with the
+sun striking directly on their heads, would have caused sickness, or
+even death.
+
+It seemed so strange to me, after one of those hot days, not to see any
+appearance of a shower, not the slightest film of vapor in all the vast
+azure vault.
+
+Some of the smaller houses were constructed of zinc. A lady who occupied
+one positively averred that the sides of the house were so hot, that she
+had only to place her dough, when she was going to bake bread, in close
+proximity to the wall, where the heat was sufficient to cook it. These
+zinc shanties were all abandoned before the summer was half spent. They
+were positively more like ovens than dwellings.
+
+There is but little disease in the country arising from the climate. On
+some of the rivers, where vegetation is rank, and decays in autumn, the
+malaria produces chills and fever, which sometimes, when neglected too
+long, proves fatal.
+
+The soil and climate of California is peculiarly adapted to the culture
+of the grape. The delicious richness and flavor of the California grapes
+nothing of the fruit kind can equal. The cactus grows spontaneously in
+California, and some of the inclosures are hedged in by this plant,
+which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against
+man and beast. The stalks of some of the plants are of the thickness of
+a man’s body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. One of the most
+serviceable of the California plants is the soap-plant. The root, which
+is the saponaceous portion of the plant, resembles the onion, and
+possesses the quality of cleansing linen equal to any soap.
+
+The wild animals of California are the wild horse, elk, black-tailed
+deer, antelope, grisly bear, beaver, otter, cayote, hare squirrel, and a
+variety of other small animals. The interior lakes and rivers swarm with
+myriads of wild geese, ducks, and other birds; the pheasant and
+partridge are numerous in mountains.
+
+For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superior
+to that of California. I have known people in the country who have been
+exposed much of the time to great hardships and privations, sleeping
+most of the time in the open air, and never suffering the first pangs of
+disease, or the slightest indications of ill-health. California is rich
+in mineral productions of all kinds.
+
+Wheat, barley, and other grains, can be produced in the valleys without
+irrigation. Oats grow spontaneously, and with such rankness as to be
+considered a nuisance upon the soil. I have seen acres of these growing
+so high as to almost hide the cattle feeding among them. The oats grow
+to the summits of the hills, but not so tall as in the valleys. All the
+variety of grasses which cover the country are heavily seeded, and, when
+ripe, are as fattening to the stock as the grains with which we feed our
+stock in this country. Nearly all the fruits of temperate and tropical
+climates can be produced in perfection in California.
+
+The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom
+they are descended. The native Californian is almost constantly on
+horseback, and, as horsemen, excel any I have seen in other parts of the
+world. The Californian saddle is the best that has ever been invented
+for the horse and rider. It is scarcely possible to be unseated by any
+ordinary casualty. The bridle-bit is clumsily made, but so constructed
+that the horse is compelled to obey the rider, upon the slightest
+intimation; the spurs are of immense size. With his horse and trappings,
+serape and blankets, a piece of beef, and he is content, as far as
+personal comforts are concerned. His amusements consist of the fandango,
+game of monte, horse-racing, and bear and bull-fighting; and a very
+exciting sport among them is the lassoing of wild cattle. They are
+trained to the use of the lasso (riata, as it is here called) from their
+infancy. A vaquero, mounted on a trained horse, and provided with a
+lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing. Selecting an
+animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the
+horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle.
+During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which usually are
+very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse
+in such a position that the fury and strength of the beast are wasted,
+without producing any other result than his own exhaustion. The animal,
+soon ascertaining that he cannot release himself from the rope, submits
+to be pulled along to the place of execution. Arriving here, the vaquero
+winds the lasso around the legs of the animal, and throws him to the
+ground, where he lies perfectly helpless and motionless. Dismounting
+from his horse, he then takes from his leggin his butcher-knife, which
+he always carries with him, and sticks him in the throat. The daring
+horsemanship, and the dexterous use of the lariat, usually displayed on
+these occasions, are worthy of admiration.
+
+The native Californian ladies lack the clear, olive complexion so much
+admired in the pure Castilian; but they are equally as animated in
+conversation, and their dark eyes flash with all the intelligence and
+passion characteristic of the Spanish woman. There are few things more
+beautiful than their manner of salutation.
+
+Among themselves, they never meet without embracing; but to men and
+strangers on the street they lift the right hand to near the lips,
+gently inclining the head toward it, and, gracefully fluttering their
+fingers, send forth their recognition with an arch beaming of the eye
+that is _almost_ as bewitching as a kiss. They dance with much ease and
+grace: the waltz appears to be a favorite with them. Smoking is not
+prohibited in these assemblies, nor is it confined to the gentlemen.
+The cigarita is freely used by the señoras and señoritas; and they puff
+it with much gusto while threading the mazes of the cotillon, or
+swinging in the bewitching waltz. The cigarita is not without its powers
+of fascination in the lips of a lovely woman, even rivalling the use of
+the fan as an appliance of coquetry.
+
+In Marysville were assembled women from all parts of the world; and I
+assure you it was an interesting study to watch the different natures,
+dispositions, tastes, pursuits, manners, and customs of these fair
+representatives of distant climes. But among them all, the Yankee women
+stand preëminent, so far as regards principle, industry, and economy,
+and, as a general thing, are as often sought after for companions for
+life by the opposite sex as those who can claim preëminence in mere
+personal attractions, and are destitute of the more sterling attributes,
+so essential to prosperity and happiness through the varied phases of
+real life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+I will now give you a sketch of our hotel-keeping in California. My
+husband rented the Atlantic Hotel, which was not a very spacious one,
+for two hundred and twenty-five dollars per month. For our cook we paid
+two hundred and fifty per month, our steward one hundred and
+twenty-five, and for all other assistance in a similar proportion.
+
+The house was always filled to its utmost capacity; and the prospect of
+future success was flattering in the extreme, provided I had strength
+given me to sustain the weight of care and labor necessarily devolving
+upon me. Often, on account of exorbitant demands from servants,--demands
+which could not reasonably be granted,--I would be compelled to work
+early and late, for days and weeks in succession. Not having been
+accustomed to living and working in such excessive heat, my system
+became debilitated; I felt my strength gradually yielding to excessive
+weakness; and, in a little less than three months from the time we went
+to the Atlantic, I was seized with a fever. For weeks I lay very sick.
+My physician pronounced my recovery hopeless unless removed from the
+hotel, where, of necessity, so much confusion prevailed. Consequently, I
+was removed to a little canvas shanty, which my husband had previously
+purchased, placed upon a straw bed, and for more than two months I was
+confined to that pallet of straw.
+
+The dimensions of the lot upon which this shanty was erected were one
+hundred and sixty by eighty feet. It was represented to be an excellent
+location, destined to be soon in the heart of a big city. My husband
+paid four hundred dollars for the place; and, as an evidence of the
+sudden and enormous rise of real estate in California, where there was
+the least prospect of a city rushing into existence,--for in that
+country cities have no state of infancy,--I will here add, that, three
+years afterwards, this same lot, with the addition of a better building,
+though not an expensive one, was valued at twelve thousand dollars, and
+could have been disposed of quickly for that sum. During the two months
+that I was prostrated by sickness, my sufferings were intense, both
+physical and mental. Doctors at that time were charging five and eight
+dollars a visit. The state of the country was such, it was almost
+impossible to procure the comforts of life, unless one was possessed of
+a fortune. Eggs were seven dollars per dozen; milk, one dollar per
+quart; and, for six weeks, I was not allowed to eat any thing except
+boiled milk. Our income had ceased when we sold out the hotel. Every day
+my disorder was growing worse, and our funds were growing less. The
+sides of our little shanty were constructed of rough clapboards, not
+very nicely matched; in some places, you could put your hand through the
+interstices. The roof was canvas, and miserably old at that. The front
+part of this domicile could boast of a few boards, which served as an
+apology for a floor. Old boxes and trunks served in lieu of chairs. When
+I was able to sit up, there was no chair to sit in. My husband procured
+one at Sacramento,--quite an inferior cane-seated rocking-chair,--for
+which he paid the exorbitant sum of twelve dollars. That was the first
+and only chair which ever graced our miserable abode. My bed and even
+pillows were of straw; and oh, how hard they seemed to my poor and
+emaciated frame! for I was reduced to a mere skeleton. At times, when
+the fever raged, how grateful I should have been for one drop of cold
+water. All the water with which the city was supplied was taken from the
+Yuba River. It was quite warm, and rendered far from clear by the
+mining operations which were carried on at the bars above. The painful
+sickness which chained me for so many weeks to a sick bed was
+superinduced by drinking too freely of this muddy water.
+
+In close proximity to our dwelling was a second-class boarding-house,
+from which, especially at night, issued discordant sounds of noisy
+revelry, mingled with angry bickerings. All this was peculiarly trying
+to one whose nerves were wrought to the utmost tension. When nights I
+would be left alone for hours together, I suffered inconceivably from
+fright. When my husband would go out, he would lock the door upon the
+outside; for I was too feeble to rise from the bed without assistance,
+and far too timid to remain alone with the doors unfastened. Every fresh
+burst of uproarious mirth or frightful anger issuing from the contiguous
+building would send a thrill of horror through my veins. Oh, how my
+thoughts, during those lonely nights, would wander to my home! How my
+heart yearned for the soothing words and kind attentions, so
+soul-cheering when emanating from the sympathetic bosoms of
+disinterested and tender friends! All this was denied me. I had formed
+no female acquaintances in this place. There was no one to come and
+smooth my hard pillow, or utter cheering, consoling words. The present
+was dark and dreary, with no bright star beaming through the murky
+horizon of the future. One day I was no less pleased than surprised at
+the appearance of a lady in my room, whose benevolent, pleasant
+countenance plainly implied peace, hope, and happiness. She introduced
+herself as Mrs. S----, recently from Cincinnati. Her residence being
+near, she had accidentally heard of my situation, and had visited me for
+the express purpose of rendering any assistance in her power. No kind
+mother could have been more attentive to the wants of a loved child,
+than was Mrs. S----to mine through the remainder of my sickness. She had
+her own family to attend to; yet every day she found time to visit me,
+and minister kindly to my wants. How anxiously I watched for her coming!
+and when I would hear her light footstep, and listen to the gentle
+accents of her sweet voice, I could only acknowledge her presence but by
+tears. She was a messenger of peace and love, a truly pious and
+exemplary woman, and, during my residence in Marysville, ever remained
+my firmest friend. She prospered in Marysville; and may kind Providence
+_ever_ shower His richest blessings upon this truly Christian lady!
+
+About this time the country was unusually agitated. The villanies
+practised and murders committed by an organized band of cut-throats, of
+whom the notorious mountain robber, Joaquin, was the chief, had excited
+the horror, and aroused the vengeance, of the entire populace of Upper
+California. No effort had been spared to capture him, dead or alive;
+but, with the perfect adroitness of an accomplished scamp, he ever
+eluded and bid defiance to pursuit by mounting some one of the many
+fleet steeds at his command, and fleeing to the almost inaccessible
+fastnesses of the mountains. His path was ever stained with human blood.
+A reward of one thousand dollars for the apprehension of Joaquin,
+offered by Governor Bigler, was still further increased by the sum of
+three thousand added to it by the Chinese. These people are industrious,
+economical, and timid. It was ever the policy of Joaquin and his
+associates to prey with particular severity upon the Chinese. Frequent
+thefts were committed in their camps; and, when resistance was
+attempted, they were butchered with a heartless cruelty, becoming the
+sanguinary nature of the murderer and outlaw. When suddenly surprised,
+he would boldly face his enemies, and receive their bullets on his
+breast, which glanced or were flattened by a coat of steel worn
+underneath his clothing.
+
+All Spanish countries have their guerillas and ladrones; but a feature
+of this kind, precipitated into American communities, and attended with
+such unparalleled atrocities, without the power of the people to avenge,
+was something astonishingly rare indeed. California was not the place of
+his birth, and he could not, therefore, have had any national jealousies
+because of the occupancy of the country by the Americans. He seemed to
+murder merely for the love of the sport, and to rob because it was a
+life of excitement, requiring great risk in its accomplishment, and
+yielding large profits when attended with good luck. But his career of
+villany was limited; and, when he least expected it, he was seized upon
+to expiate his crimes by an ignominious death. But I am anticipating.
+One night, I was excessively alarmed by an unusual commotion about the
+town. Ringing of bells, galloping of horses, groups of people rushing
+past, talking fiercely,--all conspired to confirm the belief in my mind,
+that the vigilance committee were about to execute summary punishment
+upon some guilty offender. I awoke my husband: he dressed himself as
+quickly as possible, and issued forth to ascertain the occasion of so
+much noise. Locking the door after him, he walked away to join the
+throng of people collected around a large hardware store at the corner
+of the street. He was gone so long, I feared some accident had befallen
+him. What agonizing doubts I was a prey to while lying in suspense in
+that little shanty! It was a long time before he returned. He finally
+came with the intelligence that Joaquin, with several of his
+accomplices, were encamped about three miles out from Marysville, at a
+place called the Sonorian Camp; and that Sheriff Buchanan, in attempting
+to surprise and capture him, had been shot.
+
+A few days previous to this, the citizens of Marysville and vicinity had
+been horribly shocked by the announcement in their midst of a cruel
+murder, perpetrated on the road between Hansonville and Marysville. A
+citizen of Marysville had carried a load of goods to Hansonville, and
+disposed of them for the sum of fifteen hundred dollars. On his return,
+he was pursued and overtaken by some Mexicans, supposed to be of
+Joaquin’s band, lariated and drawn from his wagon, and mangled in a
+horrible manner. On the same day, a passenger wagon was intercepted, and
+every passenger murdered; even the horses’ throats were cut. And now
+this last deed had aroused the spirit of revenge in the breast of every
+one capable of carrying arms.
+
+The particulars of the affair were these: That night, a little Mexican
+boy, who resided at the Sonorian Camp, prompted by feelings of revenge
+for a punishment that day received, came to the sheriff, and revealed
+Joaquin’s place of concealment. Buchanan, eager, doubtless, of achieving
+unparalleled renown by capturing this notorious robber chieftain, with a
+select few hastened to the spot designated by the boy. In their march,
+they were compelled to step over a fallen tree lying immediately in
+their path. They had no sooner planted their feet upon the trunk of the
+tree, when a dozen armed men sprang to confront them, and discharged
+their revolvers in their faces. The consternation of the sheriff and his
+party was universal. Those of the number who were not so disabled as to
+prevent escape, beat a hasty retreat. Among these was Buchanan. He had
+not fled many paces, when he received a mortal wound, as he supposed,
+which brought him to the ground. He was dragged along by his companions
+to the Sonorian Camp, where a litter was procured, upon which he was
+transported to his home in town. Three or four hundred of the
+inhabitants armed themselves with fire-arms from the hardware store
+above alluded to, and proceeded to the ambuscade of the terrible robber
+chief. My husband departed with the troop, previously locking me into
+the little shanty; for I dared not remain for an instant, in such
+exciting times, with the door unfastened. For fear he would not return
+in the morning before the heat became too oppressive for me to bear, he
+raised a window in the room, and dropped the curtain. Then I was alone,
+a prey to my gloomy fancies. Every noise I heard, I fancied was from
+some terrible Mexican effecting an entrance through the window, and, in
+imagination, could already discern the swarthy, murderous visage, and
+detect the sharp, glittering blade of the assassin’s knife. The memory
+of that night, even now, is accompanied with a shudder. Soon daylight
+began to dawn, and with the shades of night vanished all my fears. I was
+so weakened by sickness, that, like a child, who is naturally prone to
+superstition and fear when alone in the dark, the sufferings I endured
+that night were similar. The forenoon crept on apace, and yet that band
+of armed men had not returned, I knew, by the silence which reigned in
+the streets. As I lay, wishing my husband would return, the
+window-curtain parted suddenly, and one of the ugliest-looking faces
+was thrust into the room I ever beheld. At first, I was nearly
+paralyzed with terror; then, recovering my faculties, I exclaimed, at
+the top of my voice, “Vamos! vamos!” Knowing him to be Spanish by his
+look, I addressed him in his own language; yet, feeling that was not
+sufficiently expressive, I added, by way of effect, a few English
+invectives, which fell _very_ harmlessly upon his uncomprehending ear. I
+have often since been amused at the recollection of the amount of
+courage displayed in words, when I was so entirely helpless and
+imbecile, as far as action was required. He very leisurely reconnoitred
+the apartment, cast a look commingled of scorn and pity upon me, turned
+upon his heel, and disappeared. What was the object of this visit of
+espionage, I never could conjecture. About noon, my husband returned.
+The party had been unsuccessful in the pursuit; had caught glimpses of
+the retreating party several times, but they had finally eluded pursuit.
+The people returned chagrined and discomfited to their homes, to hear,
+in a week, of other murders still more atrocious. The sheriff was alive
+at noon, but no hopes were entertained of his recovery, as the ball, to
+all appearance, had entered his side, and passed out at the breast. His
+friends stood around the bed, momentarily expecting him to breathe his
+last; still he lived on. His physician concluded to probe the wound, and
+found that the ball, upon entering, had struck a rib, glanced and
+followed the rib around, and passed out in front. In a few days he
+recovered his health, resumed his official duties, and continued them
+long after that.
+
+Oh, how happy I felt when I could walk out once more! Distinctly do I
+recollect the first day I left the shanty for a walk. I went the
+distance of a square to visit my kind friend Mrs. S----. Upon my return,
+I found a dear brother whom I had not seen for two years and more. Oh,
+the joy of that meeting! Words would inadequately express my feelings.
+Only one month had elapsed since he bade adieu to home and friends,
+laden with so many messages of love; and now here he was, beside me,
+repeating what father, mother, brothers, sister, had said such a short
+time ago. It seemed as if I had been transported to the dear old home;
+had met the family assembled around the hearth-stone, and together we
+had spoken sweet words of counsel and of love. The night succeeding his
+arrival, we sat and conversed together until daylight began to dawn, we
+had so much to say--_I_ so many questions to ask; _he_ so much to
+relate. He was very much shocked to see me looking so much like a wreck
+of my former self. Sickness and trouble--yes, _such_ trouble as rankles
+deepest in the heart of a wife, compared with which, death would have
+been joy--was fast doing its work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+Soon after my brother’s arrival, I received a visit from my esteemed
+friends, Mr. and Mrs. B---- and Nelly. During their stay, we visited
+Yuba city, situated about half a mile from Marysville, on the opposite
+bank of Feather River. It may not be amiss to state, that Yuba city,
+with the exception of three or four houses, has been removed to
+Marysville. There is, however, an Indian rancheria existing there, which
+draws many visitors to the spot. We started, one bright morning, in a
+two-horse team, to visit the rancheria. It was proposed to ford the
+stream. Accordingly, we started for the ford. The banks of the river are
+quite precipitous; and, as we descended the steep slope, and saw the
+wide, rolling river below, we felt (Mrs. B---- and myself) as though we
+would rather never see an Indian rancheria than stem the swiftly
+rushing current; but soon down we went with such a rush, we could not
+tell where we were until the water around our feet caused us to suspect
+we were really sinking. The river proved to be higher than our driver
+anticipated, or the wagon not as high, and by the means we reached the
+opposite bank a wetter, if not a wiser party.
+
+An Indian rancheria consists of a number of huts, constructed of a
+rib-work or frame of small poles, or saplings of a conical shape,
+covered with grass, straw, or tule, a species of rush, which grows to
+the height of five or six feet. The huts are sometimes fifteen feet in
+diameter at their bases, and the number of them grouped together vary
+according to the number of the tribe which inhabit them. The Indians are
+generally well made, and of good stature, varying from five feet four
+inches to five feet ten, with strong muscular developments. Their hair
+is long, black, and coarse; and their skin is a shade lighter than that
+of a mulatto. It is universally conceded that the California Indians
+possess but few, if any, of those nobly daring traits of character which
+have distinguished the savage tribes of the Atlantic States, from the
+days of King Philip down to the notorious Billy Bowlegs.
+
+The extreme indolence of their nature, the squalid condition in which
+they live, the pusilanimity of their sports, and the general imbecility
+of their intellects, render them rather objects of contempt than
+admiration. They are deficient in all those manly arts which have given
+measurable immortality to the Cherokees. They have none of the invention
+of the Sioux, Pottawatamies, or other north-western Indians, and are
+outwitted by the cunning even of the “Tontos,” whose own self-applied
+vernacular assigns no higher rank in aboriginal tradition than that of
+_fools_.
+
+They place entire dependence on nature’s bounty for support. If the crop
+of acorns fails, or the mountain streams send not forth their usual
+schools of fish,--snails, worms, roots, and insects, furnish food with
+which they appease the gnawings of hunger. There is a kind of grass in
+the valleys the Indians eat, that is pleasant to the taste and
+nutritious. In the season of this grass, I have seen numbers of them all
+out feeding like cattle. The children all go naked. This grass has a
+tendency to increase their ordinary dimensions; and you will often hear
+it remarked, as one makes his appearance, “There comes a little
+grass-fed.” We saw them making their acorn bread (parn they call
+bread). To render it short and rich, they mashed up angle-worms, and put
+in it. After baking it,--which they did by making an excavation in the
+earth, and building a fire therein; when the earth was sufficiently
+heated, they scraped out the ashes, put in the bread, and covered it
+over with hot ashes,--they generously insisted upon our eating a piece.
+The keenness of our appetites was considerably repressed, however, by
+witnessing the several employments of the tribe. One old squaw was
+relieving her husband’s head of a score of vermin, which she ate with an
+apparent relish. She practised, however, the principle of
+self-abnegation to perfection, by occasionally tossing some of the
+finest-looking ones down his throat, for which he smacked his thanks
+with apparent zest. The hair on the heads of the chiefs is all drawn up,
+and tied in a knot on the top of the head, and ornamented with feathers.
+The squaws’ heads look like pitchmops; the hair is very thick, coarse,
+and black, and cut square round the head. No part of the forehead is
+visible; the hair falls to the eye-brows. They have jet-black eyes; and
+some of them have a decidedly pleasant expression with the eye. The
+little babies are beauties. Their mothers learn them to swim, as soon as
+an old duck does her young. They build little pens at the brink of the
+river, so that the current cannot carry them down stream, put them in,
+and keep them there half the time. They are really amphibious. They have
+a cruel custom of piercing the ears of their infants, and inserting
+sticks the size of the little finger. During the process of thus
+beautifying their infants, the whole side of the head and face is
+terribly swollen, and the child must suffer inconceivably; but better
+for them to die in the operation than to live in opposition to the
+prevailing mode.
+
+The longevity of the race is proverbial. We saw some who looked more
+like mummies than living beings. They bring them out of the huts, and
+set them in the sun, days; and there we saw them sitting, their eyelids
+drooping so you could not perceive the eyeball, limbs perfectly
+motionless, and so shrivelled and black as to be absolutely repulsive to
+the sight. Some of their limbs are affected with a loathsome cutaneous
+disease.
+
+When one of their number dies, they consume the body by fire, grind the
+bones to ashes; then the near relations mix these ashes with pitch, and
+daub their heads and faces with it, as a badge of mourning. During this
+process, and for several consecutive days and nights, they keep up a
+loud hooting and howling, and render night hideous with their mournful
+lamentations. They have large gatherings sometimes at their rancherias,
+to celebrate some event; then dancing and singing, loud shouting and
+howling, is continued without intermission the whole night. During these
+orgies, the noise made by them is such as to prevent sleep, although a
+quarter of a mile distant. Their council-chamber is of sufficient
+capacity to accommodate three hundred persons; the entrance to which is
+an aperture of just sufficient size to admit a man’s body when bent
+double. In the centre of the roof is another small aperture; and, except
+by these two openings, no air or light can be admitted. They perform
+their singular dances in this place. Often Americans go there to witness
+these sports; but a few moments’ confinement in such a close place
+generally suffices. From their burrowing propensities, these Indians
+have derived the name of “Diggers.”
+
+Their mode of costume almost defies description, it is so omnifarious.
+Sometimes they imitate the style adopted by our first parents in
+Paradise. The women are especially delighted to get on a man’s shirt, in
+which they will parade the streets apparently as pleased with themselves
+as any fashionable belle when sporting the most costly fabric. I was
+once exceedingly amused at the sight of an Indian and his squaw
+promenading the street, dressed à la mode. He sported a pair of boots,
+and an old, faded piece of calico over his shoulders, as an apology for
+a serape. She was dressed in a red flannel shirt, over which she had
+drawn an old black satin sack, which some one had given her, or which
+she had stolen. Over their black heads was elevated a shattered
+umbrella, and her arm was placed within his. Immediately in advance of
+them were walking a very fashionably dressed gentleman and lady. The
+countenances of the “Digger” and his mehala (an appellation given to the
+squaws) were illuminated with a grin expressive of much delight,
+entertaining, no doubt, the satisfactory belief that they were equally
+as much admired by observers as those in advance of them, whose motions
+and walk they were vainly endeavoring to imitate. They are inveterate
+gamblers; but I think it would puzzle wiser heads than mine to
+understand their games. They appear to place some value upon money, with
+which they gratify their gambling propensities. They flock in numbers
+into the back yards of hotels, and greedily devour all the offal
+destined to be thrown to the hogs. Sometimes you can induce them to cut
+a few sticks of wood; but, as a general thing, they are too indolent to
+exert themselves much.
+
+The rivers abound in excellent salmon, which the Indians spear in great
+numbers, and dispose of in the towns. They are the finest I ever tasted.
+Some of them are three and four feet long, and weigh fifty pounds or
+more. It is amusing to see the Indians spearing them. They stand in the
+river on rocks or shoal places, looking intently into the water with the
+spear elevated, waiting, perfectly motionless, for a sight at one.
+Instantly the spear descends, and, as sure as it does, it buries itself
+in the body of the fish. Their aim is unerring.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+At this time my husband was engaged in transporting goods to the towns
+above Marysville. He kept his horses in a shed at the rear of our
+dwelling. One night we were aroused by the cry of “Fire!” Upon opening
+my eyes, the room was as light as day. It appeared as if the whole city
+was in a blaze. The flames were rapidly spreading. Those light wood and
+canvas buildings offered but slight resistance to the fiery element. Our
+first thought was of the horses and wagon, as they were of more value
+than the house, or all it contained. They were given into my charge,
+with instructions to lead them away out on the plains, and hold them
+there, while they remained to throw what few things we possessed into
+the wagon, and drag it off. The most valuable article in the house was
+my side-saddle, for which was paid the sum of sixty-five dollars. That,
+in their haste, was forgotten, and left in the house. I had petted those
+horses so much, they would follow me anywhere. They stood perfectly
+quiet beside me, apparently watching with me the progress of the fire. I
+expected, of course, our little shanty had shared the fate of half the
+buildings of the place. After the fire had subsided, we returned to
+town; and there, sure enough, stood the little house unharmed, while all
+on the opposite side of the street lay a heap of ruins. In one week from
+that time, very nearly the same scene was enacted over again.
+
+This time, too, the canvas shanty welcomed us back again to town. Had it
+been of any value, perhaps it would have shared the fate of its
+neighbors; but, valueless as it was, it looked better to me upon my
+return than a mass of smoking ruins in lieu. What oversights a person
+will commit when alarmed, or agitated by the cry of “Fire!” One of these
+nights I dressed myself hastily, put on my dress (which fastened in
+front) hind-side before, and fastened every hook securely. Of course, I
+never discovered my mistake until I returned to the house. Soon after
+this, my brother left for the mines. When the rainy season commenced,
+our house was a poor protection from the rain. It ran through the canvas
+roof as through an old sieve. We soon vacated it, and went to the
+Oriental Hotel. This building my husband rented for the sum of six
+hundred dollars per month, furniture included. It was a spacious new
+building, at that time the finest in the place. Our expenses were
+eighteen hundred dollars per month. We employed three cooks. To our head
+cook we gave three hundred per month, and all the other domestics in a
+like proportion. To one little boy, not much higher than the table, who
+was employed to wait upon the cooks, clean knives and forks, bring in
+wood, etc., we paid the exorbitant sum of sixty-five dollars per month.
+Notwithstanding our expenses were so much, the net profits were ample.
+We had twenty and twenty-five dollars per week for board. The house was
+always crowded. While we were at the Oriental Hotel, the city was
+inundated. Oh, that was indeed a gloomy time! A vast amount of property
+was destroyed, and some lives lost. The sudden melting of the snow in
+the mountains swelled the mountain streams to rushing torrents. The most
+intense excitement prevailed in Marysville, as the Yuba River, swollen
+to its utmost capacity, was still rapidly rising. What a wildly rushing,
+roaring, foaming mass of water came thundering on! Higher and yet higher
+it came, until the plaza was fairly submerged. Trucks were rushing to
+and fro, laden with merchandise being conveyed to the upper part of the
+city. Many objected to leaving their houses, thinking the water would
+abate, until they were obliged to make their egress through the windows,
+and in boats were taken to dry land. The Oriental fronted on quite high
+land. At the back was a large basement, where was situated the culinary
+department, also the servants’ apartments. All this part of the building
+was entirely submerged, and the water lacked but a few inches of being
+to the first floor. Night was coming on, and the water was still rising.
+Fear and anxiety sat enthroned upon the countenances of all. A short
+time previous to this, there had been erected on the plaza two brick
+blocks. The water undermined the foundation of these buildings, and that
+night they fell with a terrible crash. It is almost impossible to convey
+to the minds of those not present any correct idea of the gloomy aspect
+of affairs during the inundation. Towards morning, the waters ceased to
+rise any higher, yet did not subside in the least. A man residing on a
+ranch about five miles above Marysville, in attempting to save some
+cattle from drowning, was swept from his horse by the force of the
+current, and was borne down stream with astonishing rapidity. He managed
+to keep his head above water, but was unable to clutch at anything
+whereby he might save himself. As he neared the landing at Marysville,
+all the latent energy of his being was aroused to save his life, as that
+would be his last chance. There was a large steamer lying there, made
+fast to the big tree on the plaza. Any one who has visited Marysville
+will recollect this venerable tree. Some of the earliest pioneers to
+this place recognize it as an old friend, under whose protecting arms
+they have for many nights sought a shelter. With almost superhuman
+exertions, he caught hold of one of the paddle-wheels of the steamer,
+and maintained his position until rescued by some people who had seen
+him struggling in the water.
+
+Feather River, too, overflowed her banks, and, in a south and westerly
+direction from Marysville, nothing could be seen but one unbroken sheet
+of water. Many of the smaller houses were washed down stream. One
+couple, living on a ranch twenty miles from Marysville, on the bank of
+Feather River, and far from any other habitation, were driven for safety
+to the top of a table. As the water rose higher, they were obliged to
+rise higher. It was a little bit of a shanty. They knocked a hole
+through the roof, and crept out thereon. They soon found they must vamos
+from there; so they embarked in some sort of a craft (tub or barrel),
+and paddled off to a little island. After congratulating themselves upon
+their miraculous escape, they found they were not the only occupants of
+this island retreat: a big grisly bear had preceded them. Not relishing
+such close companionship as he seemed inclined to offer, they quickly
+beat a retreat to a large tree, and, seated in its topmost branches,
+carefully guarded by “Old Bruin,” they passed twenty-four gloomy hours.
+When assistance arrived from a neighboring ranch, in the shape of a boat
+well manned, it was Bruin’s turn to beat a retreat, which he did. The
+frightened, hungry couple were released from their perilous situation.
+
+My brother had returned from the mines, and was living upon a ranch on
+the banks of the Yuba. He swam his horse quite a distance to save a
+woman and child. When he arrived at the shanty, they were perched upon a
+table, calmly awaiting their fate.
+
+The boats were sailing in every direction about the city; and all
+through the night could be heard the shrill cry of “Boat, ahoy!”
+resounding far over the waters. All night long, on the opposite side of
+the Yuba, sat a Spaniard on the ridge-pole of his house, at one end,
+while, at the other end, was a big rat, each anxiously expecting relief.
+
+Very gradually the waters began to subside; but it was a week before the
+city was passable at all. One small house which was washed down stream,
+and lodged some distance below, the owner afterwards recovered; and,
+after placing it upon its original site, he corralled it, for fear of a
+similar accident.
+
+We kept the Oriental four or five months; but the numerous cares
+devolving upon me were too wearing for my constitution. Could I have
+been relieved from so much anxious solicitude, we should have remained
+in the house longer. Now the rainy season was nearly over, we returned
+to our little shanty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+About this time, in company with my brother, I took a journey a distance
+of eighty miles up the Sacramento River. The whole distance, the route
+lay through the most beautiful valley of which imagination can conceive.
+It was the season for flowers, and in every direction the most beautiful
+floral blossoms met the eye. Oh, the beautiful ranches (farms we should
+call them) that were situated on the banks of this magnificent stream!
+We passed some fields of wheat, containing five hundred acres in one
+inclosure. We forded numerous streams which intercepted our course. We
+saw herds of antelope bounding gracefully from our path. To some we got
+sufficiently near to see their clear, bright, shining eyes. Their
+graceful symmetry of form, their agile, sylph-like motions, all combine
+to render them one of the most beautiful animals in the country. The
+fawn of the American deer, if captured before the pretty white spots
+upon its sides have disappeared, will follow its captor anywhere, if he
+will first carry it a little while in his arms. They are the perfection
+of grace, innocence, and confidence. Probably there is no wild animal
+more susceptible of domestication, when taken young, than the American
+deer.
+
+We saw, too, the elk, in large numbers. Once, as we were approaching a
+stream, there were several drinking therefrom. As soon as they perceived
+us, they reared aloft their heads, surmounted by huge and stately
+antlers, and dashed away with the velocity of the wind. As we neared a
+ranch belonging to Mr. N----, everything bespoke the wealth and
+prosperity of the ranchholder. He possessed a herd of one thousand
+horses. That day they were corralled, for the purpose of branding those
+not already bearing the owner’s mark. This seems to me a cruel process,
+yet an unavoidable one there, where so many different people’s stock are
+running together over the plains. They blindfold the beast, and chain it
+to a post deeply imbedded in the earth. Then the blacksmith takes the
+branding-iron, bearing the owner’s stamp, heats it red hot, and applies
+it quickly to the shoulder or haunch of the animal. How the seared hair
+and hide smoke! and how the poor creature plunges and rears with fright
+and pain! I have too much sympathy for the poor brutes ever to be a
+ranchholder, or the wife of one. We dined at the ranch of Mr. L----,
+whose waving fields of grain, with other appurtenances, revealed in a
+measure the extent of his wealth.
+
+We travelled on through elysian valleys, until we reached our
+destination. The only objection a person could have to a residence in
+these sunny vales is the annoyance one is subjected to from myriads of
+musquetoes, which, at certain seasons, swarm the country. I have seen
+laborers at work in the fields with green veils tied to their hats, and
+drawn down over their faces, and fastened about their necks. When we
+reached our destination (the ranch of Mr. S----), I was very much
+fatigued; but that, in a measure, was dispelled by the hearty welcome I
+received from Mrs. B---- (Mr. S----’s daughter), an interesting lady
+from New York, who arrived in the country at the time I did. Her father
+was a very wealthy ranchholder.
+
+Their dwelling-house was constructed of adobe brick. It was only one
+story high, but more than sixty feet long. Mr. S---- employed a host of
+Indians upon his ranch. The beautiful gardens and extensive fields of
+grain furnished convincing proofs of the enterprise, industry, and
+energy of the proprietor. Nineteen years’ salutary training had, in a
+measure, eradicated the indolent propensities inherent to the Digger
+race. Mr. S---- had been a resident in California, and on that ranch,
+for nineteen long years. What caused him to leave his family and native
+land, to seek a home in the wilds of California, is unknown to me. But
+so he did. When he left his home, Mrs. B----, the daughter then with
+him, was a babe scarcely six months old. During those long years of
+separation, the wife knew not the whereabouts of her husband, or of his
+existence even. His little children grew to man’s and woman’s estate in
+the interim, never dreaming they had a father in California. Some were
+old enough to recollect him before his self-banishment from their
+presence; but they soon learned to speak of him as one gone to the
+spirit-land.
+
+One chill autumn eve in 1850, might have been seen a man a little past
+the meridian of life, whose silvered locks and furrowed cheeks gave
+evidence of past griefs, of sufferings that had roughly stirred the
+deep fountains within,--else the surface would not have been so deeply
+channelled,--standing irresolutely before the door of a neat mansion in
+New York city. Conflicting emotions of pleasure and of pain were rapidly
+crossing each other upon his countenance; and well they might, for he
+was standing, after an absence of nineteen years, at the door of his own
+house, desiring, yet scarcely daring, to enter. He summoned courage to
+ring; the door opened, and he crossed the threshold of his
+home,--confronted his wife--how changed from the young and blooming
+woman he left so long ago! yet, the instant their eyes met, the
+recognition was mutual. The little Bessy he left a babe, was all the
+child remaining at home. He remained with his wife and child that
+winter; but there existed a yearning for his home in California, that he
+vainly endeavored to conquer. He must return. Would his wife and child
+go with him? The daughter would, for she manifested unusual affection
+for her father, so recently found. The wife preferred to remain behind.
+In the spring, father and daughter left New York for the home in
+California. They were unavoidably detained at Panama. While there, the
+daughter became acquainted with a young gentleman from her native city.
+He proposed, was accepted, and they were united at Panama, before
+proceeding on their voyage. And here they were domesticated, away in the
+interior of California. They appeared to be enjoying as much happiness
+as ever falls to the lot of mortals. How pleasant it seemed to enter
+that adobe building, and find everything arranged with a neatness and
+regularity eliciting admiration. Mrs. B---- performed no household
+duties herself. She had five or six well-trained Indian women for house
+servants, who labored hard for no other remuneration than their food and
+raiment. The last-mentioned stipulation, however, was easily complied
+with, as they require but very little clothing--just as much as decency
+requires, and no more.
+
+Mrs. B---- is a lovely woman, well qualified to grace the most refined
+and intelligent society. There was a novelty and charm connected with
+their residence in that remote place, which rendered life peculiarly
+pleasant. The extensive tract of land which Mr. S. possessed (since the
+confirmation of the ranch titles) has rendered him immensely wealthy.
+Immediately upon our arrival, our horses were allowed to revel in the
+luxuries of wild oats. They were actually up to their eyes in acres of
+the nutritious grain. After the business which had led us to that
+remote place had been ratified; we started on our homeward journey, with
+much more extended views of the agricultural resources of California
+than we had hitherto enjoyed. Soon after this, my brother left for
+distant mines.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+
+Now came a report to Marysville that rich diggings had been discovered
+at a place designated French Corral, which was about fifty miles from
+Marysville. This intelligence (as it ever does in California) caused
+hundreds of people, of all classes and professions, to rush
+simultaneously to the spot where gold was so gratuitously deposited. My
+husband was desirous of going too; and, possibly, he might establish a
+boarding-house there, if the prospect bid fair. So one morning, about a
+week after the tide of emigration had commenced flowing so rapidly, we
+started, and foolishly too, in a one-horse buggy. It was reported there
+was a good wagon-road leading directly to the place.
+
+But what would be called a good wagon-road there, would be considered
+utterly impassable here. Neither my husband nor myself had ever
+travelled in the mountains; if we had ever done so, no doubt we should
+have possessed wisdom enough to have taken the journey upon
+mules--decidedly the best mode of conveyance in the Sierra Nevada
+region. Early one morn in the month of June, we left the town of
+Marysville, long before the inhabitants had awakened from their drowsy
+slumbers, and pursued our course in a north-easterly direction,
+following the course of the Yuba, crossing and recrossing it several
+times during the day. About twenty miles from town, we struck the low
+hills (as they are termed) of the vast and gigantic Sierra Nevada range.
+Low hills! thought I. I should call them mountains, and higher ones,
+too, than I had ever dreamed of travelling over. Recollect, kind reader,
+I had been reared away down on Cape Cod, where there are only a few
+slight elevations, justly denominated sand-banks. After reaching the top
+of a high hill, (I suppose I must call it so, but it would suit my ideas
+better to say mountain,) the wheels were chained, preparatory to a
+descent. How my heart beat, and how I wished myself back again, before
+we reached the base! It was one of my pet horses that drew us, and I
+knew he was perfectly gentle; but oh, how I pitied him!
+
+How entirely different was the scenery now from that enjoyed when
+traversing the beautiful valley of the Sacramento a short time previous!
+and yet in what close proximity these different sections lay! I could
+scarcely realize that I had not travelled thousands of miles, to reach a
+country so very dissimilar. After one becomes accustomed to mountain
+travel, I know not to which of these decidedly dissimilar landscapes the
+lover of nature would yield the palm. After overcoming in part the
+emotions of fear, I was perfectly entranced at beholding the lofty
+mountains towering far above us, their sides and summits timbered with
+large pines, firs, and cedars. And then how quiet and lovely looked
+those little valleys, so hidden and enclosed from the world, completely
+hemmed in by the grand and sublime elevations of nature’s most
+magnificent handiwork! Oh, what dark and gloomy-looking defiles were
+disclosed to view!--fit rendezvous for the sanguinary assassin, or the
+dark-skinned treacherous savage. An involuntary shudder ran through my
+frame, as we wended our way through these silent mountain recesses.
+
+I half-expected, every moment, to hear the whizzing of an Indian arrow
+past my ear, or the sharp click of the murderer’s revolver. We were well
+armed, for it was dangerous to travel in those mountains unarmed. But I
+very much doubted my ability, so far as regarded courage, to use any
+weapon, (except woman’s weapon,) even in self-defence. Often, as you
+enter one of these little valleys, your eyes will be greeted with the
+sight of a little shanty. Sometimes they call these mountain-glens
+corrals; and certainly they are corralled in by almost impervious
+barriers. One, in particular, arrested my attention. This valley was of
+an emerald green. Through it ran a clear, gurgling mountain-stream, the
+music of its waters inviting the weary wayfarer to sip of the
+health-promoting beverage. (I regret to add, at that time in California
+the health-inspiring properties of pure, unadulterated cold water were
+seldom tested.) Several cattle and mules were nibbling the green grass.
+But the prettiest feature of all, in my estimation, was an intelligent,
+bright-eyed little woman, seated just outside the door, under the shade
+of a magnolia, with a smiling, rosy little baby in her arms. I was out
+of the buggy in an instant, and had the little darling in my arms. There
+we obtained refreshments. There was quite a history connected with this
+bright-eyed woman, which I afterwards learned, and will relate, if my
+readers will pardon the episode. It may perhaps interest them as much in
+the recital as it did me.
+
+We will now glance back through many years to the innocent days of
+childhood--to this lady’s pleasant home on the banks of the lovely
+Connecticut. Not far from the shores of the Sound, which receives its
+limpid waters, stood a quaint, old-fashioned farm-house; and _there_ she
+passed the spring-time of youth. On an adjacent farm dwelt another happy
+family. Not a day passed but the children of these respective families
+had met, and raced and tumbled about, in all the wild joy of freedom and
+of health; now paddling on the smooth surface of the glassy river, or
+scrambling among thorns and briers in those old woods, after violets and
+nuts knowing no restraint, or recognizing none, save their parents’
+love. When she was about twelve years of age, her father conceived the
+idea of emigrating to the Western wilds.
+
+Then those children, who had lived, and loved, and played together so
+long, must separate. The heroine of my story, and a lad a few years her
+senior, belonging to the other family, had, almost unconsciously, as it
+were, conceived and cherished an almost undying friendship for each
+other; the strength and ardor of which the parents little suspected.
+After an interchange of many little love-tokens, the lad placed a hair
+ring, of curious workmanship, upon the girl’s finger, with the solemn
+injunction never to part with it, and that, when he grew to be a man, he
+would seek her for his bride; and so they parted. Upon their arrival in
+the Western country, the father located himself, with his family, at or
+near Nauvoo city. Subsequently, he joined the Mormons, and resided many
+years at this place. About the time the tide of emigration commenced
+flowing to the golden shores of the Pacific, he put in execution the
+secretly cherished plan of removing with his family to Great Salt Lake
+city.
+
+In vain our heroine--now grown to a lovely and interesting woman--sought
+to deter her father from consummating this long-cherished plan of
+removal to the city of Zion. We can conjecture how much she was
+influenced in adopting such a course by the knowledge which she had
+recently obtained that the lover of her youth, to whom she had, in
+defiance of oft-repeated solicitations to the contrary, ever proved
+faithful, was about to seek her for a fulfilment of his boyish pledge.
+Her father was inexorable: he was determined upon going, and his
+favorite daughter must accompany them. The mother’s pleadings, too,
+could not be resisted. They started. The mother’s health, previously
+enervated, after six weeks’ toilsome travel across the plains, began
+visibly to decline. With intense anxiety, each succeeding day, they
+watched the paling cheek and tremulous motions of the wife and mother.
+Their worst fears were realized. One calm, still, moonlight eve, they
+consigned to a lonely grave the remains of the loved one. She had
+emigrated to her last peaceful home. Never more would she be called upon
+to resume her toilsome march across the plains of this sublunary sphere.
+The family now consisted of the widowed husband, the daughter, and a
+little girl, the offspring of a younger daughter, who had deceased
+several years previous to this last emigration, and, being a widow, had
+bequeathed her only child to its grand-parents. Little Rosa was a
+joyous, light-hearted child, possessed of strong affections. The rich
+wealth of love she had bestowed upon the grandmother had often caused
+the tears of that fond parent to flow at the thought of the bitter
+sorrow in store for the little darling, when she should have departed to
+her long home.
+
+The grief of the child under this affliction was deep and lasting.
+Never more was her sweet voice heard in unison with the feathered
+songsters, carolling her sweetest songs all the live-long day. Whenever
+they encamped, she would wander forth, and gather the prairie-roses, of
+which she begged her aunt to make for her a pillow. Upon this little
+pillow of roses every night she rested her tired head, covered with
+flaxen curls. One night, she complained of being unusually tired, and
+said, “Oh, aunty, where is my rosy pillow? That will cure me.” In the
+morning, they found her in a raging fever, from which she never
+recovered. In two weeks from the time, she wept inconsolably at the
+grave of her grandmother; she had gone to join her in the spirit-land.
+They laid her in her little grave, with the pillow of roses under her
+head, and resumed their gloomy march.
+
+In less than one week from this second bereavement, while fording a
+river, the father lost his life. Thus was the daughter left alone, the
+last of her family. She continued her journey with the company, and
+arrived safely at Salt Lake city. Here another trial awaited her. She
+had not been long there, before the great prophet, Brigham Young,
+selected her to swell the list of his spiritual wives, of whom at that
+time there were about thirty. Her heart revolted at the idea of such a
+destiny, and she resolved upon speedy flight. A company of emigrants,
+bound to California, were encamped a short distance from the city.
+Thither she secretly directed her steps, told her story, was admitted
+into the company, and conveyed to California. Upon her arrival there,
+she was engaged as an assistant in a hotel, where she remained nearly a
+year.
+
+One night, the occupants of this hotel were aroused by the appalling cry
+of “Fire!” in their midst. The building was in a blaze. Every one was
+rushing to obtain egress. At such a time, woe to those prostrated upon a
+bed of sickness! The shrieks of a sick man arrested the rapid steps of
+this woman, flying for safety from the devouring element. Many had
+rushed past, unmindful of his call for succor, intent only on
+self-preservation; but the kind heart of woman could not resist this
+touching appeal to her sympathies. She caught him in her arms, (for he
+was reduced to a mere skeleton, from intense suffering,) and rushed
+forth, just in time to escape the falling timbers. By the assistance of
+another person, the sick man was conveyed to comfortable quarters, where
+every attention was rendered him by the lady who had preserved his life
+on that eventful night. Owing to extreme excitement in his then weak
+state, a violent delirium ensued, which continued for many days. None
+knew the sufferer, or from whence he came. Upon his restoration to
+reason, as his kind nurse was proffering to him a glass of water, he
+suddenly sank back upon his pillow in a fainting fit. When consciousness
+was once more restored, he could only point to a hair ring upon the
+lady’s finger, and articulate her name. Thus these lovers met, after a
+separation of nearly eighteen years. An explanation ensued, by which she
+learned that he had traced and followed her across the plains to Salt
+Lake city. There he lost all clue to her whereabouts. Disappointed and
+sick at heart, he pursued his way to California; went to the mines, and
+worked awhile, and was there taken sick. He managed to get to the hotel
+the day preceding the fire. The rest may be imagined by the situation in
+which I described her, as first seen by me upon entering that lovely
+valley. Truly, truth is stranger than fiction; and romance dwindles into
+insignificance, when contrasted with thrilling realities.
+
+Now I will proceed on our journey. I regretted to leave that beautiful
+spot, so rural, so retired, so far from the busy haunts of man. It had
+such a serene aspect, it seemed to me to be one of the sweetest havens
+of rest that God ever provided for life’s weary pilgrim. We travelled on
+until we reached another valley, equally as rich in nature’s adornments;
+but its verdant soil had been recently saturated with the blood of three
+prospecting miners. Their bodies had been found pierced with arrows,
+besides being cut and mangled in a horrible manner. Some Indians near by
+were suspected of committing the murder. Consequently a number of miners
+had assembled, and, in order to intimidate the tribe, had taken three
+Indians, and hung them on the limb of a tree near by the scene of the
+murder. As we approached, we noticed with some anxiety the unusual
+collection of so many miners. Very soon the occasion of such an
+assemblage became apparent. There, on a single limb, were suspended the
+dead bodies of three Indians. One glimpse was sufficient. I can see them
+now, their swarthy, distorted visages emblematic of revenge and
+treachery.
+
+Finally we came to a little mountain town called Bridgeport. It
+consisted of three little shanties and a toll-bridge, which spanned the
+Yuba River. The setting sun was just gilding the tops of the surrounding
+mountains, as we halted in front of one of the dwellings to inquire the
+distance to French Corral. They informed us it was about five miles.
+They told us there was a pretty high mountain just beyond, and advised
+us to discontinue our journey for that night. They seemed so
+particularly solicitous for us to remain all night, their shanty was so
+filthily dirty, and they themselves were such savage, hirsute-looking
+objects, that I entreated my husband to go on. I thought, out of two
+evils, we were choosing the least by proceeding. I came to a different
+conclusion, however, before we reached our destination. My husband paid
+one dollar and a half toll, and we crossed a high bridge, under which
+rolled the Yuba. At this place, it was a rapidly rushing stream. It went
+foaming and dashing over innumerable rocks which intercepted its
+progress, overleaping every barrier, acknowledging no superior power.
+Unceasingly it rolled on its course, its waters mingling with those of
+her sister rivers, and _all_ tending to one point, viz., the broad
+Pacific.
+
+Directly after crossing the Yuba, we commenced the toilsome ascent of
+the highest mountain we had yet encountered. At the commencement of the
+ascent, my husband alighted to walk up the mountain, and I was to drive
+up. The poor horse started with all the energy he possessed, in the
+hope, I suppose, of speedily gaining the top. I quickly lost sight of my
+husband, who was trudging on in the vain hope of overtaking me. Soon I
+began to perceive evident signs of exhaustion in the horse. I tried to
+stop him, but could not. The buggy drew back so, that, if he attempted
+to stop, it drew him back too. And oh, what an awful road it was! Deep
+gullies worn by streams of water, which had flowed down when the snow
+had melted, deep enough to hide myself in! I tried several times to get
+the carriage crosswise the road, but could not, on account of those
+gullies and huge rocks.
+
+I was fearful, every moment, the horse would fall, from utter
+exhaustion. He was covered with white foam, and his tongue was extended
+from his mouth. I screamed for my husband at the top of my voice; but he
+was puffing and blowing far down the mountain. I finally contrived to
+get the carriage wedged in between two rocks. I then got out, and went
+to the relief of the horse. Poor fellow! I thought he was dying, for
+some time. When my husband appeared in sight, his appearance betokened
+about as great exhaustion as the horse. After a good rest, we all
+proceeded up, I on foot too. Three or four times I threw myself on the
+ground in utter exhaustion. We could not proceed as leisurely as we
+would, had night not been so close upon us. The summit was reached; and
+what a magnificent view greeted my wondering vision! The road wound
+round the mountain near the top. The sides of the mountain had been cut
+down, and a very good level road formed, of just sufficient width for
+only one carriage to pass round at a time. A horn, which is found at
+each termination of this narrow pass, is loudly sounded by travellers,
+before entering on the road, as a warning of their approach. The
+distance from this road down an almost perpendicular descent was one
+thousand feet; and at the base of the mountain rolled the foaming waters
+of the Yuba River. Yet from that dizzy height it had the appearance of a
+white ribbon no wider than your hand. The outside wheels of the buggy
+ran within three feet of the edge of the precipice. Nothing could induce
+me to ride (even with our gentle horse) in such close proximity to the
+frightful chasm. My husband jumped in and rode around, while I went
+plodding along, almost ankle-deep in the red sand. Presently I heard
+voices behind. I turned to look, and there, a few paces behind me, were
+two dark, swarthy, bewhiskered individuals, each mounted on a fine
+mule, and one of them was leading a spare mule. What to do I did not
+know. There I was, alone, wallowing in the sand, my bonnet off, hair
+dishevelled, face the color of vermilion, and dress the color of the
+sand. Who or what I was, or how I came there on foot, I suppose was
+beyond their comprehension.
+
+When they overtook me, one said, “Good evening, madam; this is a hard
+road to travel over Jordan.” To this I made no reply. Said the other,
+“Wont you ride? you look tired.” I told him there was a carriage waiting
+for me just round the mountain. So they rode on. Soon I found my husband
+waiting for me. I quickly accepted his invitation to ride, for I feared
+meeting with other adventures, which might not terminate so pleasantly.
+We travelled on, expecting to reach the corral every moment. There were
+no more such high elevations on our route as the last we had surmounted;
+but there were a plenty high enough, I assure you.
+
+But for the brilliant rays of the queen of night, we should have been
+compelled to encamp in the mountains. Nothing could exceed the grandeur
+and sublimity of these mountain-glens and cañons, walled in by those
+grand and lofty mountains, and lighted by the brilliant and powerful
+rays of the moon, and the sparkling radiance of the starry host,
+glittering like so many diamonds in the deep-blue canopy of the heavens.
+Their desolation is mellowed; an air of purity and holiness seems to
+pervade those silent places, which leads the imagination to picture them
+as grand saloons of nature, fashioned by the hand of the Almighty for
+the residence of pure and uncontaminating substances, and not for the
+doomed children of passion, want, care, and sorrow.
+
+About ten in the evening, we made our descent into the valley bearing
+the name of French Corral. We were perfectly astonished at beholding
+such a collection of canvas houses--large frame boarding-houses and
+hotels, brilliantly lighted gambling-saloons without number, and Spanish
+dance-houses, French cafés, drinking-saloons, etc., etc.
+
+It may not be amiss to state here the manner of building frame-houses,
+when the time occupied in building was two days for a private dwelling,
+four days for a hotel, and six days for a church. The last mentioned,
+however, was not often raised. A building would boast of a very slight
+frame, not boarded, but split clapboard nailed on to the frame, and the
+outside was finished. Upon the inside, in lieu of laths and plastering,
+bleached or unbleached cotton cloth is stretched smoothly and tightly,
+and fastened to the frame. This cloth is then papered over, and it looks
+as nice as paper upon plastering. The ceiling overhead is nice bleached
+cloth, sewed together neatly, and stretched so tightly there is not a
+wrinkle observable. For partitions a frame is raised, and each side of
+this frame is cloth and paper, leaving a hollow space between the two
+partitions of cloth, about three or four inches in width. These
+partitions look as firm and solid as they do made the usual way; but
+they afford but a slight hindrance to the passage of sounds. These
+deceptive partitions have been accessory to the diffusion of many a
+momentous secret.
+
+Begging pardon for this digression, I will proceed with the description
+of this speedily-rushed-into-existence mining town. We were directed to
+the California Hotel, as one capable of rendering the best
+accommodations. Thither we accordingly went, and received a hearty
+reception. Every attention benighted, tired travellers could reasonably
+require, was cheerfully conferred. Next morning, we rose from our
+couches of straw, rather lame, to be sure, but anxious, nevertheless, to
+reconnoitre the town. We first repaired to the mines. There were over
+one thousand miners at work in a gulch surrounded by towering mountains,
+which shot up almost perpendicularly over their heads. The frosts of
+spring tarry latest in those gulches, and the genial rays of the winter
+sun penetrate but occasionally to cheer the miner in his arduous toil.
+
+It is difficult, after all the descriptions he may read, for any one who
+has not been in the mines to obtain any correct idea of the manner in
+which they are worked, or of the difficulties and singular vicissitudes
+in life to which the miner is exposed. If the miner be dependent upon
+others for his water by paying for it weekly, success demands that he
+should be an early riser. Before the first dawn of light breaks upon the
+sky above him, he opens his eyes, rolls over on his hard bed, stretches
+his stiffened limbs, and, feeling about for his boots, places his hand
+upon something resembling an icicle, into which his feet are thrust, and
+the labors of the day commenced. He kindles his fire, (that is, if he
+boards himself,) fills and sets on the coffeepot, fries his “flap-jacks”
+and his pork, or warms up his beans, and the morning repast is prepared.
+It is then quickly eaten; and, by the time it is daylight, the miner is
+beside his tom. The water is let on, and in half an hour’s time he is
+standing ankle-deep in it, while, every few minutes, a dash of it is
+accidentally sprinkled upon his back. A hard day’s work of this kind is
+not unfrequently closed by the paltry reward of one, two, or three
+dollars, to be divided between the last named number of men. And this
+approximates, more nearly than all other histories, to the truth of
+mining. The “big strikes” are always heard of first, because the good
+news is published, while the bad is deemed worthy of no such
+distinction. From this cause thousands of people meet with
+disappointment, and write back to their Atlantic friends, reviling a
+country the noblest for its climate, soil, and business advantages, of
+any under the broad canopy of heaven.
+
+The success of the miner depends a great deal upon luck. He may be
+industrious, economical, possessed of good morals, labor perseveringly
+for months, and sometimes years, and still be poor, as far as the
+acquisition of gold is concerned; while, perhaps, an unprincipled
+spendthrift in a few months may realize a fortune. A claim, too, may
+prospect rich, and yet, upon working it, yield scarcely sufficient to
+defray the expenses. Sometimes, also, adjoining claims which prospect
+alike may prove, one rich, and the other poor. I knew one fellow who had
+worked three weeks upon his claim, and had not realized enough to pay
+his board. He became disheartened, and sold out to a “green-horn,” who,
+in the interval of six weeks, took out over three thousand dollars’
+worth of the yellow metal. I knew another, too, who labored hard three
+years in the country, without any more than defraying his expenses, when
+he was fortunate enough to strike a “pocket,” from which he took out
+twenty thousand dollars. But here I am digressing again.
+
+We found, upon walking about the town, that nearly every other building
+was a boarding-house. So much competition had reduced board to twelve
+dollars per week, which would not pay, considering the fact of having to
+pay six cents per pound freight for the transportation of provisions
+from Marysville; so my husband relinquished the idea of opening a house
+there, and decided to return to Marysville on the following day. That
+night, there was to be a grand ball at the Corral; and Mrs. R----, the
+wife of the gentleman who kept the house where we stopped, was very
+anxious for me to accompany her to witness the proceedings. Accordingly,
+in the course of the evening, we stepped in, as silent spectators of the
+festive scene. I was rather surprised at beholding such a recherché
+assemblage. By the appearance of the company, I should not have
+suspected that we were, figuratively speaking, in the bowels of the
+Sierra Nevada Mountains. A long artificial bower had been constructed,
+under which were spread the tables, loaded with delicious viands. There
+were turkeys, which at that period could not be purchased for less than
+twenty-five dollars apiece; and pigs, too, which were equally as scarce
+in the market. There were jellies and East India preserves temptingly
+displayed, also the refreshing ice-cream. Beautiful bouquets graced the
+tables. These flowers had been gathered in close proximity to snow.
+Sixteen miles distant, farther up in the mountains, was plenty of ice
+then; and there was a Frenchman at the Corral--from whom the place
+derived its name--who kept quite a number of cows; so that ice and cream
+were very easily obtained.
+
+Here, fifty miles from the settlements, were convened a collection of
+gentlemen and ladies, who had come, some ten, some twenty, and some
+thirty miles, to join in the merry dance. I saw two Bostonians there. It
+was a select company: all gamblers were excluded.
+
+After having regaled ourselves with some refreshments, which the polite
+and gentlemanly host insisted upon our partaking, we took our leave,
+as, the ensuing morning early, we were to start on our homeward
+journey.
+
+It is a peculiar feature of the climate in California, that, as soon as
+the snow disappears from the earth, the flowers spring up spontaneously.
+There is no frost in the ground, and the heavy body of snow lying
+thereon serves to keep it warm. While at the Corral, I was presented
+with an elegant bouquet, which a gentleman told me he gathered between
+two snow-banks, in such close proximity to each other, that, with his
+arms extended, he could reach the snow on either side. The rising sun,
+next morning, found us at the top of that high mountain, very near the
+spot where he bade us adieu on our journey up.
+
+Neither ourselves nor the horse were as fatigued as when we made the
+ascent; therefore, it did not appear half as formidable; yet I preferred
+being upon my feet. It was really frightful to look at the horse and
+buggy. The wheels were both chained: yet how the poor horse had to brace
+his feet at every step! It was on this same mountain, the following
+August, as a party of emigrants, who travelled across the plains, were
+descending in an ox-team, the wagon pitch-poled, distributing the
+contents (which consisted of a woman and two or three children,
+cooking-stove, and many other household utensils) in every direction.
+
+When we reached Bridgeport, we were accosted by the toll-gatherer with
+“Well, I reckon as how you had a right smart heap of trouble that night,
+afore you reached the top of the mountain. I allowed you would be for
+turning back; but I have always heard say, them Yankee women never would
+give up beat.” How he knew I was a Yankee, was beyond my comprehension;
+for he did not hear me speak, as I recollect of. Must be my countenance
+was the index of the nation to which I belonged; and I believe it does
+speak Yankee as well as my tongue; for I was never taken for anything
+else, except once----.
+
+We met with no adventure particularly worth relating on our homeward
+journey. When we descended again to the foot of the hills, they really
+seemed clipped of nearly one-half their altitude since I had passed over
+them. I was also surprised at the wonderful amount of courage I had
+acquired during the trip. Now I laughed at travelling over those hills I
+before had cried at. That night, the little canvas house received within
+its walls a tired couple. Not long after this did it afford us a home.
+My husband sold it, and we went to the Tremont Hotel, where I remained
+during the remainder of my stay in Marysville.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+
+Soon after this, I took a journey, in company with several ladies and
+gentlemen from San Francisco, to a mining locality, called Park’s Bar,
+situated about twenty miles from Marysville. After leaving the plain,
+our route lay through a thick growth of what is there termed chaparell.
+It resembles, at a distance, the hawthorn. So dense is this growth of
+bushes, it affords grand lurking-places for the assassin. Many a poor
+miner, as he has trudged along, with his blankets upon his back, perhaps
+well laden with the shining dust, has at this place been pounced upon,
+and relieved of his burden, and perhaps his life, by some one of the
+many desperadoes who infest the country.
+
+A gentleman of the company related an incident which occurred, as a
+friend of his was once travelling this particular locality. He was
+driving a mule-team very leisurely along, in close communion with his
+thoughts, when, all at once, he was startled from his reverie by the
+sudden halting of his mules. Upon looking up, there, close in advance of
+the mules, were two huge grisly bears, amusing themselves with their
+cubs. His heart was in his mouth in an instant. How could he compete
+with two such formidable antagonists, should they simultaneously attack
+him? His mules betrayed the terror they were suffering by one long,
+continuous bray, in which they were speedily joined by their no less
+frightened driver. This horrid din, suddenly bursting upon this bruin
+coterie, had the desired effect. They instantly disappeared in the
+surrounding chaparell; while the teamster pursued his way with all
+possible dispatch, congratulating himself upon having escaped, at least,
+a very _feeling_ embrace. While speaking of this graminivorous animal,
+allow me to add, that I was acquainted with a family who had in their
+possession a cub, so tame that he used to play about the floor with the
+children as harmlessly as a pet-kitten. He was prized so highly, they
+had declined several tempting offers to part with him. Some hunters had
+shot his mother, and were dragging her off, when this little cub ran
+after them, sprang upon its dead mother, and evinced the strongest
+symptoms of affection. Thus it was easily captured.
+
+About mid-day, we arrived at our destination--quite a little town,
+picturesquely situated upon the banks of the Yuba. Those little mountain
+towns are, to me, invested with a charm, a novelty, that is perfectly
+bewitching. After refreshing ourselves at a hotel in the vicinity, we
+repaired to the mining ground, as we laughingly remarked, to prospect.
+Some of the miners were so very gallant as to offer us the use of their
+pans, at the same time assuring us that they would allow us all the gold
+dust we were lucky enough to pan out. It was considered rich diggins at
+this spot; therefore, the vision of a heap of gold dust incited us at
+once to doff our lace sleeves and fancy fixings, and enter zealously
+upon this to us novel method of obtaining that coveted metal. Oh, it was
+back-aching work, I assure you!
+
+Since that one half hour’s work in the mines, how much sympathy I have
+felt for the gold-digger! The thought at once obtruded itself, that if
+some of the wives of these poor miners whom I had known could but
+realize one half of the toil and hardships their husbands endure in the
+acquisition of wealth, or of even a competency, by the use of the pan
+and shovel, they would not be half so lavish in their expenditures. It
+was excessively warm; there was not a breath of air stirring; the sun
+was shining down with more than tropical fervor, while its rays were
+reflected in ten thousand directions from the sides of the hills, until
+the atmosphere glowed and glimmered like the air in a furnace.
+
+Although the earth was yielding at the rate of ten cents to the panful,
+we very soon came to the conclusion, that we had rather suffer the
+privations incident to poverty than toil longer in that burning heat;
+so, wiping the perspiration from our vermilion countenances, we repaired
+to the hotel; from whence, after a short rest, I sallied forth to visit
+several female acquaintances of mine who resided at the Bar. They were
+ladies who, upon their first arrival in the country, had boarded with us
+awhile, until their husbands could provide a suitable abode for them in
+the mines.
+
+I found one of them, a Mrs. Q----, suffering excessively from a terrible
+fright she had received the night previous. The facts were these: They
+kept a boarding-house, where they accommodated about forty persons. In
+the night, they were both awakened by a noise in their room. Before they
+could move, and even before her husband could grasp a revolver which lay
+loaded under his pillow, the figure of a man, masked, and holding a
+sharp, glittering knife in his hand, was standing over them. The knife
+was held within an inch of her throat, while the threat was uttered,
+that if her husband moved so much as an inch, his wife’s life would pay
+the penalty. Such a threat was, of course, effective. There they lay,
+while three other burglars entered the room, and commenced pilfering. A
+trunk was opened, from whence they abstracted one thousand dollars in
+gold dust. Next followed her jewelry, and her gold watch, a parting
+present from her mother. Her husband’s watch, and several other articles
+of value, was seized upon; with all of which they decamped. The sentinel
+still stood over the wife, while she had fainted from fright. After
+waiting until his co-workers in villany were fairly off, he told him, if
+he raised the alarm until the lapse of so many minutes after his
+departure, that a ball, from an unseen and unerring hand, would be the
+forfeiture. He then vamosed. The alarm, however, was instantly given;
+every inmate in the house were aroused; but no trace of the robbers was
+ever discovered. It was weeks, and even months, before Mrs.
+Q---- recovered from the shock she that night received.
+
+I felt in hopes the party would conclude to remain over night at the
+bar; but, as there was a bright moon, they decided upon a moonlight
+drive to Marysville. I must confess myself so much of a coward that I
+liked not to travel through those gloomy-looking cañons and ravines at
+night, even were the way illumined by brilliant Luna’s beams. I fancied
+the shadows of the trees assumed the form of the lurking assassin, ready
+for a spring. We met with no adventure on the way home, and our ears
+were assailed with no more horrible sounds than the bark of the cayotes
+that prowled along on our track. These animals partake of the nature of
+the wolf, and are very cowardly. They are a great pest in California.
+The burial-ground, situated about a mile from Marysville, was often
+frequented by these animals; bodies were often found exhumed and
+partially devoured by them.
+
+During my residence in California, situated as I was most of the time in
+a hotel, I had ample opportunity to study human nature in all its varied
+phases. Scenes of misery, too, I witnessed, enough to fill a volume,
+were they all recorded. Scenes of gayety and splendor also diversified
+the way. I attended one wedding in Marysville, the cost of which was
+currently estimated at two thousand dollars. The bride was a fair widow
+of thirty, (and wealthy withal,) whose husband had deceased five months
+previously.
+
+People in our staid, matter-of-fact, puritanical towns, can have but a
+faint conception of the ever-varying, ever-changing scenes, pertaining
+to a life in California, where fortunes are made and lost in a day;
+friends die, and are forgotten soon, in the constant whirl of excitement
+which surrounds one. People who, when I first arrived in California,
+were considered immensely rich in this world’s goods, long before I left
+were reduced to penury. The motto there is, “Nothing risked, nothing
+gained.” They will perhaps invest all they possess in some great
+speculation, (always bound to succeed,) and lose the whole. Then, again,
+vice versa.
+
+What shocked me more than all else in California was, to see the poor,
+sick, and often penniless people, brought to the hotels (there were no
+hospitals in Marysville at that time) to die; and then, when the soul
+had taken its flight to the spirit-land, to see the hearse drive to the
+door, take the body, which had been deposited in a rough box without the
+usual apparelling for the grave, and start off to the place of interment
+alone! Not one solitary mourner to follow the remains, or drop the tear
+of affection at the grave of one who, perhaps, in some far-distant
+home, had many “loving friends, and true,” who were anxiously waiting
+and watching for his return.
+
+One day there were two brothers, brought by their father to the Tremont
+Hotel. They were sick with a fever. After a week of intense suffering,
+they died, and the lone father followed them to their last
+resting-place. A few days subsequent to this event, he was attacked with
+the same fever which had proved fatal to his sons. He soon felt
+convinced that he, too, must die. When the proprietor of the house asked
+him if he had friends in the Atlantic states, to whom he wished word to
+be conveyed, “No,” said he; “I am the last of my race. I have no friend
+living to mourn for me.” He even declined naming the place of his birth.
+In a few days after that, he lay beside his boys.
+
+At another time, the mangled form of a young and intelligent-looking man
+was brought to a hotel. He had been crushed in a horrible manner by the
+falling of a large rock where he was at work. His head and chest alone
+remained uninjured. A younger brother accompanied him to the hotel, and
+remained as his nurse. Every night he used to slip quietly from his
+suffering brother’s room, and repair to the gambling-houses, and there
+stake and lose large sums, which had been obtained at the price of his
+brother’s life. The poor sick man, unable to raise a finger, his back
+turned towards the door, and therefore not knowing his brother was
+absent, would call repeatedly the brother’s name, begging him for a
+glass of water. After a while, all would be still. No one suspected he
+was dying there alone nights.
+
+One night, I heard the call so long continued, and so plaintively
+uttered, I could endure it no longer. I rose, dressed myself, and
+repaired to the sufferer’s room. I found him all alone. “I wish, madam,”
+he said, “you would waken Jack. He sleeps so soundly, I never can arouse
+him in the night. I call until I am fearful of awakening the occupants
+of the surrounding rooms, and then I desist. But now I think I am
+dying.” I told him his brother’s bed was vacant. He seemed very much
+distressed at his brother’s absence. Search was immediately instituted.
+He was found at a gambling-table, betting. He was summoned to the
+bedside of his brother. After a while, the sick man revived. He lingered
+through the next day. At night, his physician enjoined his brother to
+remain constantly with him, as it was not probable he would survive
+until morning. The passion for gambling had gained such an ascendency
+over the young brother’s better feelings, that, some time during the
+silent watches of the night, he had deserted his dying brother! In the
+morning, the poor sufferer was found a corpse. He had died alone! What
+struggles, what agonizing thoughts, were his, what words passed his
+dying lips, none save his Maker knew.
+
+The brother had passed the night in one of the many dens of infamy that
+abounded, and which shed, and still do, a withering blight over the fair
+and sunny valleys of the richest country the sun ever shone upon. See,
+in this case, what a pernicious influence those gilded saloons of vice
+have upon the unstable mind of youth. Here were two brothers, who had
+been reared by fond parents in the fear and admonition of the Lord.
+Through their childhood they had loved one another; and together they
+had repaired to a distant land to seek their fortunes. The younger,
+whose mind was more vacillating, had by degrees yielded to the song of
+that siren, Vice, until she had lured him to her haunts, causing him to
+forget home, friends, and even a dying brother, to follow in the train
+of the tempter.
+
+My prayers are, and ever have been, with the vigilance committees of
+California. May the blessing of God attend them, and prosper all their
+undertakings and endeavors to uproot and exterminate those hot-beds of
+vice, those quick-sands in the ocean of life, upon which the bark of
+many a promising youth, of many a young husband, and of many a
+middle-aged father, has been irrecoverably wrecked.
+
+Go into the villages and towns throughout the Atlantic States, and in
+how many will you not find one, at least, who has been a heart-sufferer
+from the effects of those dens of sin and iniquity, which, until the
+organization of the vigilance committee, threw open their gilded doors,
+even in the glare of noon-day, to allure the weak-minded and
+unsuspecting! And even the strong-minded have sometimes fallen a prey to
+their seductive wiles. How many homes have been rendered desolate, how
+many families disunited and severed, how many hearts as well as fortunes
+broken, by the prevalence of that one great sin, gambling! and it has
+been an almost universal vice in California.
+
+How many enterprising and ambitious men have I known who emigrated with
+their happy wives to California, their hearts buoyant with bright
+anticipations of the future! Success for awhile crowned all their
+undertakings; but, alas! those gorgeously furnished drinking-saloons
+which meet the eye at every turn proved too enticing for frail human
+nature to resist. The first temptation yielded to, and how easily the
+downward course is pursued, which terminates in total depravity!
+
+The young wife, neglected by her husband, her brilliant hopes
+crushed,--unless she be possessed of a strong mind, and has friends
+there to guide and guard her,--rather than return alone to the home of
+her childhood, gradually loses her self-respect, and finally swells the
+list of those we blush to name.
+
+Those upon whom the sun of prosperity has ever shone, know not how
+bitterly painful is the first clouding over of youth’s sweet
+visions--the first crushing blight of confidence and love--the first
+consciousness that life is not so fair and bright, nor friends so kind
+and true, as we have pictured them. Not from observation wholly do I
+asseverate these statements--by sad experience have these sentiments
+become deeply imbedded in my heart. I have known, and felt, and suffered
+_all_, in my short life. But, when the wife’s cup of misery is full to
+overflowing, and she returns to the home of her youth, expecting to
+receive the sympathy she so justly deserves, and which is so readily
+proffered by those encircling her own hearth-stone, how poignant to her
+sensitive and lacerated feelings are the baneful, whispered slanders
+which are borne to her ears! and emanating, too, from the lips of those
+she once considered friends, and who, had adversity not overtaken her,
+would still have been fawning sycophants for favor.
+
+Oh, ye slanderers! pause in your career; for it is one of the most
+heinous sins that the instigator of all evil ever conceived, and from
+which every pure heart will turn with loathing and disgust. If the
+professed slanderer ever has any moments of serious reflection, how
+severe must be the accusations of that faithful monitor within; for to
+how many, in the course of their life-time, have they cast their
+poisoned arrows, dipped in the foul extract of their own hearts, which,
+while it _kills_ not those to whom it is aimed, rankles deeply in a
+sensitive heart, causing tears of agony to flow! Then there are always
+plenty of the lovers of gossip abroad to catch and retail slander;
+plenty ready to believe an evil report, without taking the trouble to
+investigate. Thus many an innocent heart has palpitated keenly, upon
+receiving manifest slights from a source whence they had a right to
+expect nought but kindness.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+
+One bright morning, toward the latter part of the month of September, I
+left Marysville for a drive to General Sutler’s residence, situated
+about eight miles below Marysville. You cross Feather River at Yuba
+city, and follow the banks of this lovely stream, the scene varied and
+beautified by nature’s incomparable adornments, until the picturesque
+mansion of the affable and dignified general greets the eye. The road
+leads to the back entrance of the spacious, square court-yard, which is
+surrounded by a range of buildings on three sides. Several large and
+stately trees rear their umbrageous branches far above the roofs of the
+adobe buildings, which, from their sylvan retreat, peep out a ready
+welcome to the tired stranger. The grounds around the dwelling are
+tastefully and beautifully adorned with numerous parterres, some of
+which are inclosed with hedges of cactus. Here I saw the first
+cultivated rose that had greeted my eye since leaving New England. How
+the sight of those roses carried me back to the neat New England homes,
+embowered with honey-suckle and roses! It was actually fragrant with
+home, and home associations. On one side of the gardens extended a
+flourishing vineyard, the products of which amply repaid the labor
+expended thereon.
+
+We were invited by the general to enter his pleasant-looking domicile,
+which invitation we cheerfully accepted. We were regaled with grapes, as
+luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit which tempted the occupants
+of paradise. The wines proffered,--the produce of the vines of
+California,--having attained age, were pronounced of an excellent
+quality in substance and flavor. Sweet music, discoursed by one of the
+general’s sons, enhanced the pleasure of this often-remembered visit.
+
+The Indians in the immediate vicinity are devoted to the general’s
+service; while the only remuneration they ask or expect is their food.
+His house servants are all the female Diggers. The general’s family
+carriage is drawn by two sleek-looking mules; and the driver’s box is
+occupied by a Digger Indian, in costume á la fancy. Mrs. Sutter
+generally denies herself to all visitors; but the regret generated by
+her absence speedily vanishes in the presence of the affable, courteous
+general, who ever welcomes his visitors with a cordiality inseparable
+from the man, whose integrity never bent to wrong or pusillanimous
+expediency, and who, armed intellectually with the panoply of justice,
+has courage to sustain it, under all and any circumstances.
+
+We arrived back to Marysville just as the red orb of day touched the rim
+of the western horizon, covering it all with crimson and gold, and
+filling the world with a flood of evening glory.
+
+I was often amused, while sojourning at the Tremont, by witnessing the
+transformations effected by a change of apparel on the inhabitants of
+the mountains, when they made temporary visits to the valleys. One day,
+a weary and care-worn-looking miner entered the bar-room of the hotel.
+Nought of his countenance was visible save his eyes and nose; for over
+his brow was drawn a soiled Kossuth hat; while the lower part of his
+face was entirely concealed by an abundant growth of hair. He deposited
+his blankets upon the floor, advanced to the bar-keeper, and inquired
+for the proprietor of the house. To him this soiled and
+travelled-stained miner delivered up thousands for safe keeping. He
+seated himself in the gentlemen’s parlor, eyeing intently for some
+moments an open piano. Upon his advancing toward it, and seating himself
+upon the music-stool, a smile, bordering on derision, involuntarily
+passed from one to another of the occupants of the room. The smile,
+however, was speedily changed to looks of astonishment, when, after
+running his fingers hastily over the keys, music such as we sometimes
+hear in our dreams, but _very_ seldom in every-day life, gushed upon
+their astonished senses. The air was “Sweet Home.” He accompanied the
+instrument with a voice of surpassing melody, which penetrated to the
+ladies’ rooms, and brought them en masse to the stairs, where they
+remained almost spell-bound, while he played and sang piece after piece,
+seemingly engrossed by heart-awakening memories of other days and other
+lands, and wholly unconscious of the presence of listeners who had
+gathered around him. As he was about midway in the execution of that
+plaintive song, “Katy Darling,” he suddenly ceased, became aware of the
+attention he was attracting, caught up his old, greasy hat, and vamosed.
+
+When next he appeared in their midst, the metamorphosis was so complete
+as to utterly prevent recognition, had he not again seated himself at
+the piano. He remained several weeks at the hotel, and often delighted
+us with specimens of his musical talent. He was considered by
+connoisseurs as the greatest performer upon the piano in all California.
+
+I never saw a miner without thinking how little one could judge, by the
+present appearance, of his origin or past life, for there were those
+laboring in the gold mines of California who had held important offices
+of trust in the Atlantic states. The sons of wealthy southern planters,
+too, were there, laboring as hard as their fathers’ slaves at home, but
+reaping a far richer harvest of gold. People who at home never performed
+any manual labor, there would not hesitate to stand in water up to their
+knees for days and weeks together, if, by so doing, they could heap high
+their coffers.
+
+The good fortune of a lady in California, which came under my especial
+observation, I will here record. Upon the arrival at Marysville of one
+of the up-river boats, a fine-looking lady, whose age might perhaps be
+thirty or thereabouts, came to the Tremont Hotel, and desired an
+interview with the proprietor. She informed him she was entirely
+destitute of funds, as the journey from New York had been more expensive
+than she had expected, and begged, as a favor, the loan of twenty
+dollars. Could she obtain that amount, she intended to pursue her way to
+Downieville, where she hoped and expected to find a friend and relative.
+The proprietor accordingly proffered the required sum, although somewhat
+doubtful of receiving it again, or even of seeing the recipient. The
+next morning she resumed her journey; and the remembrance of this
+fine-looking widow was obliterated by the occurrence of other and more
+important affairs. Five or six weeks had elapsed, when, one day, she
+astonished us all by appearing in our midst. Upon meeting the
+proprietor, “Oh,” said she, “I have been _so_ successful! and now I have
+come to liquidate old debts.” The nature of the success was this: She
+arrived at Downieville, found the one of whom she was in pursuit, and he
+built her a canvas house, procured her a cooking-stove, a long board
+table, and some wooden benches, and she commenced keeping a
+boarding-house. She soon had thirty or forty boarders, for each of which
+she received twelve dollars per week. One day, as she was sweeping her
+floor,--which, by the way, was nothing but the earth,--she saw something
+glitter. Upon examination, it proved to be a lump of gold. She searched
+farther, and found the earth was full of particles of gold. She
+instantly summoned to her presence the friend who had assisted her in
+locating herself in such rich diggings. They removed the table, benches,
+and stove. Upon the last-named utensil a dinner was in progress; but who
+would think of preparing a dinner, even if it were near the dinner
+hour, should they suddenly find themselves in possession of such rich
+diggings. This land, which she had appropriated to her own use, was
+situated in a central part of the town of Downieville. It had never been
+prospected, for the very reason that its appearance betokened nought to
+impress the beholder with the idea that gold existed there in such
+quantities.
+
+That day they two took from the kitchen floor, as she termed it, five
+hundred dollars, mostly in lumps. Every day witnessed similar success.
+As soon as she could think of leaving her treasures for two days, she
+hastened to Marysville to cancel her debts. Afterwards she became a
+frequent visitor at the house. I became very well acquainted with her;
+and one day she related the cause of her leaving home alone, to seek a
+home in California. She was married very young, and in opposition to the
+wishes of her parents. Unfortunately, her married life proved miserable
+in the extreme. After a lapse of years, she returned penniless, with one
+child, to the home of her youth, where she received a hearty welcome
+from her father; but the gentle, loving mother, whom she had forsaken,
+had gone long since to the spirit-land, and her place in the family
+circle was occupied by another. That other regretted the daughter’s
+return, and manifested her disapproval by unkindness to the child. At
+one time, when the child was suffering intensely from sickness,
+child-like he refused to take his medicine, whereupon the grandmother
+struck him. In twenty-four hours after that, the boy was a corpse. After
+the burial of her boy, the daughter never looked upon the step-mother
+again. She told her father, that, if he would furnish her with means,
+she would seek her fortune in California; and she did, in the manner
+above related. She acquired a fortune; but the recollection of her boy,
+at times, would come floating over the ocean of memory, overshadowing
+all the bright hopes and sunny feelings of her heart.
+
+It was a novel sight to me to watch the emigrant wagons, as they passed
+through Marysville to their different destinations. How dusty and
+travel-stained they appeared, after a four and five months’ journey
+across those almost boundless prairies, after fording those mighty
+streams, whose waters had been navigated by nought save the red man’s
+canoe, effecting a passage through lonely cañons and over towering
+mountains, enduring almost every hardship the human frame is capable of
+sustaining, and finally had reached the desired goal!
+
+How emaciated the cattle looked; and no wonder, for how many long and
+weary miles they had travelled! I almost fancied those old oxen actually
+smiled for joy at arriving at their destination; yet many of their
+number had given out on the way, and their bones lay bleaching in the
+sun.
+
+A lady who had travelled across the plains told me how sad it made her
+feel when she saw the cattle giving out on the way. Said she, “Those
+dumb beasts would express so much sorrow in their faces when they began
+to falter in their pace, they would look so wishfully into the face of
+the teamster, and low so mournfully, I knew they understood their
+situation.”
+
+Notwithstanding the sufferings and hardships those emigrants endure
+while on their “winding way,” all is forgotten when they reach the
+settlements. Their swarthy, sun-burned faces are radiant with joy as
+they pass along.
+
+It is astonishing how much one of those wagons will hold. I saw one
+passing with eight holes cut in the canvas on one side, and a child’s
+face peeping out at every one of these holes. Besides the children it
+contained, there were cats, dogs, beds and bedding, cooking-stove, tin
+pans, and kettles.
+
+Two emigrant wagons passed through town one day, each driven by two
+beautiful-looking girls--beautiful, although browned by exposure to the
+weather. In their hands they carried one of those tremendous, long
+ox-whips, which, by great exertion, they flourished, to the evident
+admiration of all beholders. Their surpassing beauty gained for them the
+appellation of the “belles of the plains.” In two weeks from the time
+they attracted so much attention, driving each three yoke of oxen
+through town, they were married to gentlemen whom they had never seen
+until they arrived in California, and who had never seen them until they
+beheld them as teamsters.
+
+I often saw ladies at the hotel who had resided eight and twelve months
+at different bars far up in the mountains, where they were the only
+females, and during all this time would not see a lady to speak to. You
+can imagine how fast they would talk, upon getting where there were
+plenty of their own sex.
+
+I was quite amused at an incident related by one of those ladies, who
+had been for eight months thus isolated from all society. Her husband
+kept a boarding-house, where he accommodated about thirty miners, which
+were all that worked at that place. A short time previous to the
+occurrence of the scene here related, these miners had had some trouble
+with a tribe of Indians whose rancheria was not far distant. They had
+heard several times that they meditated an attack upon all the whites in
+their vicinity, and for some time they had been upon their guard; but,
+as they heard nothing from them, they had relaxed their watchfulness.
+One day, when they were all at work in the mines, and this lady alone in
+the house, instantaneously a deafening war-whoop rang in her ears. She
+ran to the door, and saw, at a little distance from the house, about two
+hundred painted Indians, armed with bows, arrows, and hatchets,
+advancing at a rapid pace. She rushed from the house, frightened half to
+death, (as she expressed her feelings,) and ran, screaming, to the spot
+where the men were at work. They, hearing the war-whoop and her screams,
+and seeing the whole tribe making such a rapid descent, naturally
+supposed they were coming to exterminate them; and if so, flight was out
+of the question. There was no alternative but to meet the foe, and fight
+with picks and shovels; for their fire-arms were in the house, and the
+Indians were between the house and where they were. They directed
+Mrs.---- to flee across the river and into the woods on the opposite
+side, and secrete herself as quickly as possible. The river was so deep,
+the water so wild and dark-looking, and spanned by so narrow a timber,
+that, upon any ordinary occasion, she would have hesitated a long time
+before venturing across; but now, with the velocity of the wind almost,
+she crossed the timber, and rushed with headlong speed for the woods.
+Before reaching it, however, she passed several large excavations in the
+earth; and, thinking one of these would afford her a grand hiding-place,
+she jumped into it, and crouched down to await her fate. Said she, “It
+would be impossible to describe my feelings while in this hole. I
+expected every moment to see a dozen dark-skinned savages, glaring at me
+with their murderous, blood-thirsty eyes. I could endure it no longer: I
+must crawl out, and rush on. After great exertion, I got out, and, not
+once daring to look around, made all haste for the woods.
+
+“Reaching it, I would hide myself for a few moments, and then think,
+‘They will surely find me here; I must find a better place than this;’
+and then leave it in search of another. In this way I hid myself a dozen
+times. Finally, I climbed up into the branches of a large tree, and
+there remained, for how long I could not tell--the time seemed
+interminable. Then I heard some one shouting. I was so terrified, I
+could scarcely retain my seat. Soon I heard my own name called, and
+recognized my husband’s voice. _He_ was alive, then, and all the others
+were murdered! When he appeared in sight, he was laughing. I thought him
+insane. Said he, “Come down from the tree; it is all right. I thought I
+should never find you. I have been hunting these two hours.”
+
+It seemed these Indians had started, in honor of some great occasion, to
+visit a neighboring tribe. They had painted and armed themselves, as
+they ever do when they start upon a journey to celebrate any great
+event. Their object in raising such a war-whoop was, doubtless, a
+sportive one; for they passed the miners with their countenances
+illumined with a broad grin.
+
+The lady, who was from the New England States, returned to her house
+with some idea of the sufferings of the early New England settlers. It
+was days before she recovered her usual equanimity.
+
+Another lady told me that she was the first who arrived at Cañon Creek,
+situated a hundred miles from Marysville, in the Sierra Nevada
+Mountains; and that, when she arrived at the top of the mountain which
+overlooked the ravine in which the miners were at work, they desisted
+from their labors, gave three hearty cheers, and came to the place where
+she was seated on a mule. Their delight was so great at seeing a live
+woman in their midst, that they actually lifted the mule upon which she
+was riding from his feet, and carried them both down the mountain. Those
+miners, who had lived so long in their little cabins, secluded from the
+world, deprived of the cheering presence of woman, knew then, if they
+had never before known, how to appreciate the opposite sex.
+
+As a specimen of the sort of accommodations a traveller is likely to
+meet with in a journey through the more unsettled parts of the
+mountains, I will describe a public-house on the trail (as it was
+called) that I once had occasion to stop at. It was a little log shanty,
+kept by a woman--of what color I was unable to determine, on account of
+the dirt upon her person. She hailed from out West, somewhere. I think
+it must have been far West, where the cleansing properties of soap and
+water were not often tested. There was no floor in this shanty but the
+earth, and even that looked as if it had never been swept. How could I
+stay, and eat, and sleep in so much dirt? There was no alternative;
+night was close at hand, and no other _public-house_ within many miles.
+She prepared us a _good supper_, as she termed it, in which, I presume,
+there was a good supply of dirt, although I did not stop to scrutinize
+it very closely. After we had partaken of the cheer set before us, she
+washed the dishes, turned round, and dashed the dish-water up in one
+corner of the apartment, wiped her hands upon her dirty apology for a
+dress, and sat down for a smoke. For sleeping accommodations, there were
+berths built up against the side of this shanty. I wrapped my own
+blankets around me, and crawled into one of them, where I remained until
+daylight. Right glad was I when it appeared, and I hoped to leave her
+domicile without being encumbered with any of her live stock; but in
+this I was disappointed.
+
+At one time there came down from the mountains the most comical-looking
+old couple I ever beheld. They were English, and had emigrated to the
+Western States ten years previous to the date of my story. They had been
+in California two years, during which time they had never left the
+mines. She worked mining with her husband. It was the commencement of
+the rainy season when they left the mines; and all she had on, to
+protect her from the weather, was a thin, faded calico gown--one which
+she had brought from England ten years before; and it was the best
+garment she possessed. Over her shoulders she wore a calico jacket, and
+on her head an apology for a sun-bonnet. Her husband wore a Mackintosh,
+which reached to his heels, and on his head an old hat, and oh, what a
+hat! Altogether, they were the most forlorn-looking couple one would
+wish to see. They carried penury in their very countenances. I pitied
+her so, I gave her a gentleman’s dressing-gown, which had been left at
+the hotel. It was rather soiled, to be sure; but then it was better than
+anything which she had. When she went away, she wore it off. They had
+started home to England, by the way of New York. When the bar-keeper
+requested him to register his name, he made a cross; and she was as
+ignorant as he. At night she asked me if I would give her a room with
+good fastenings to the doors and windows, as they had a good deal of
+gold dust with them. I inquired to know where it was, as they brought no
+baggage with them, except a little bag, which she carried on her arm.
+She said it was in belts around their waists. I told her, if it were
+much, she had better deliver it up to the proprietor of the house for
+safe keeping. Said she, “Oh, no, I would not lose sight of it for
+anything! I have five thousand dollars in my belt, and my husband has
+the same.” I advised her to send it by express to New York, as they
+might be robbed on the way. She said they could not afford to pay the
+percentage for its transportation, when they could carry it, and save
+that money. So they started for New York by the way of Nicaragua.
+
+I often thought of them after they left, and felt assured in my own mind
+that they would lose their money before they arrived home. They were two
+very simple people, and betrayed by their looks evident signs of fear of
+robbery. The next news I heard of them was, that they were both drowned
+at Virgin Bay, while going from the shore in a boat to get on board the
+steamer. The particulars were these: The boat was loaded with
+passengers; and, it being rather rough, they became frightened, and all
+rushed to one side, and capsized her. This old couple, having so much
+gold about their persons, sank immediately; while those who were not
+burdened with gold were quickly picked up by other boats. Thus these two
+old people, who had lived in poverty all their days, died rich,
+clutching the treasures for which they had toiled so hard, and to obtain
+which, they had denied themselves the comforts of life. The school of
+poverty in which they had passed the greater part of their lives, had
+fostered the spirit of covetousness to such a degree, that it was
+finally the means of their losing their lives.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+
+While in California, I had charge, for a while, of a little girl, whose
+mother had died just as the steamer upon which she was on board neared
+the wharf at San Francisco. The father, mother, and two children were on
+board the ill-fated Independence, which was wrecked, and then burnt, on
+the coast of Old California.
+
+When she commenced burning, the father hoped to save his family from the
+flames by swimming with them to the shore. Being an expert swimmer, he
+thought that, by taking one at a time, he might succeed in bringing them
+all to the land. He suspended his wife over the ship’s side farthest
+from the flames, wrapped the babe of ten months in a shawl, and
+consigned it to the care of a passenger until his return, took the
+little girl of four years in his arms, lowered himself into the water,
+and commenced swimming for the shore. He clasped her little arms about
+his neck, told her to hold on, shut her eyes and mouth, and she would
+soon be on the land, and then he would return for mother and the baby.
+
+Long before they reached the land, she was senseless. In the meantime,
+the flames were increasing with such rapidity that it behooved the
+father to hasten back, in order to save his wife from the devouring
+element. He left the little girl senseless upon the beach, dove into the
+foaming surf, and was several times borne back to the shore before he
+could get beyond it. As he neared the burning wreck, the flames burst
+out afresh, forcing the frightened passengers to leap into the angry
+waters. The gentleman who held the babe threw it into the ocean to save
+himself. In its descent, the shawl became detached from it, and the
+child fell into the water a short distance from the mother, but beyond
+her reach. In one of its little hands it held a toy; and, as it was
+borne off on the top of a receding wave, its little plump arms were
+raised, and the mother saw the white, dimpled hand firmly grasping the
+toy. She could look no longer. Her babe was hastening on to swell the
+angel-band in the courts of the blessed!
+
+When her husband reached her, the flames were close around; her dress
+had even been scorched. With her he started back to the shore. But very
+few could have breasted the angry waters as he did; but he was impelled
+by a motive which seemed to lend strength to his well-nigh exhausted
+frame. He reached the shore with his wife. Some one had found the little
+girl senseless, and had succeeded in restoring her to consciousness. The
+body of the infant was afterwards washed ashore, with the toy grasped in
+its hand. They made its little grave on the lonely beach, and placed it
+therein.
+
+For three or four days these shipwrecked passengers remained upon the
+beach, their only nourishment being molasses and vinegar. They were then
+taken on board a vessel, and carried to San Francisco.
+
+The mother, weakened by exposure, and suffering from a hurt which she
+received in her side while being suspended from the ship, breathed her
+last just as she was nearing their destined port.
+
+Little Rosa (her name was Rosa Taylor) often told me the sad story in
+her artless, baby way. How impressive was her manner, when, seated in a
+little chair by my side, her dimpled face upturned, her large, dark,
+mournful eyes raised to mine, her rosy lips parted, to tell of the
+dreadful shipwreck; of the baby brother being drowned; of her being so
+hungry and cold on the beach; of her dear mother dying, and clasping her
+so closely in her arms, when she said, “Be a good girl, Rosa, and love
+your father; for he is all the one left to love you.” Then the dying
+mother said, “Raise me up, and let me look upon the land once more.”
+Then she lay back, and died.
+
+Rosa staid with me three months, while her father was at the mines. Then
+he came, and took her away to Oregon.
+
+I must not forget to mention the delights of stage-coaching in
+California. In the first place, the coaches are built of the strongest
+materials to be obtained, and are sufficiently large to carry from
+twenty to thirty persons. They are drawn by six large, beautiful horses.
+In the dry season, when the rivers are low, large boats do not run to
+Marysville, and most of the travel is effected by stages. I once rode to
+Sacramento and back in one of those six-horse coaches, when the
+passengers, inside and out, numbered twenty-eight. The thermometer stood
+at 110 deg., and the dust was so dense as to almost suffocate one. We
+were all obliged to _unpack_ ourselves, and walk over all the bridges
+on the way; and then, so frail were these structures, that they trembled
+and swayed as the empty coach was being drawn over.
+
+By the time you arrive at the end of your journey, your eyes, nose, and
+mouth are filled with dust, as well as your clothes. One day’s ride
+ruins the clothes; but, if a person is blessed with a strong
+constitution, he may possibly survive several consecutive days’ riding
+in those crowded coaches. The roads between Marysville and Sacramento
+are very level, it being a vast plain the whole way.
+
+Journeying through the mountainous sections of the country in coaches,
+is perfectly awful. The passengers are obliged to alight, and push
+behind the vehicle, to assist the horses up every hill, and, when they
+arrive at the summit, chain the wheels, all get in, and ride to the base
+of the next mountain, in danger every moment of being overturned, and
+having their necks broken. For thus working their passages they have to
+pay exorbitant fares.
+
+One night, about eleven o’clock, a lady came into the hotel, looking
+more dead than alive. She was leading a little girl, of about seven
+years of age, who was in the same plight as the mother. They were both
+covered with bruises, scratches, and blood, with their garments soiled
+and torn. They were coming from Bidwell’s Bar, a place about forty miles
+above Marysville, in a stage-coach, in which were nine Chinamen. The
+coach was all closed, as it was rather cool in the mountains in the
+evening. All at once, they found themselves turning somersets. The coach
+was overturned down a steep bank.
+
+All the Chinamen, with their long cues reaching to their heels, were
+rolling and tumbling about in the most ungraceful manner imaginable.
+They were vociferating at the top of their voices in a language which,
+if spoken calmly, and with the greatest mellifluence, is harsh and
+disagreeable in the extreme. “And,” said she, “such a horrid din of
+voices as rang in my ears, it was scarcely possible to conceive of;
+which, together with the fright, was almost sufficient to deprive me of
+reason.” The driver was seriously hurt, and so were some of the horses;
+but the inside passengers escaped without having any limbs broken, but
+their cues were awfully disarranged.
+
+In the dry season, there were as many as a dozen coaches which left
+Marysville every morning, and as many would arrive every evening.
+Generally, they were all loaded to their utmost capacity.
+
+In California, two-thirds of the population seem to be constantly
+travelling (in search of new and rich diggins, I suppose). It was quite
+amusing to listen to the rigmarole which each driver had over, as they
+reined in their horses in front of the different hotels. The names of
+the different localities along their routes, which they would sometimes
+work into laughable doggerel, the cracking of their whips, and the jokes
+cracked upon one another, were quite diverting.
+
+At the time I was in Marysville, it was not safe to walk around in the
+suburbs of the town, in a dark evening, unless armed. Late one evening,
+as myself and husband were riding into town, we distinctly heard the
+click of a revolver, and two reports followed in quick succession. The
+balls whizzed past our ears, giving us no very agreeable sensation, I
+assure you. There was no moon, but it was starlight. Whether we were
+taken for people for whom some one was lying in wait, with the view of
+plunder or murder, or for what those shots were fired, ever remained a
+mystery to us. At any rate, it gave us such a fright, I never was caught
+out there again after dark.
+
+There was one house in Marysville which had been in process of erection
+four years, and was not then completed. It was owned by a wealthy
+Spaniard, originally from South America. I went, one day, to view this
+curious structure. Under it were two regular dungeons, with heavy iron
+doors, which could be doubly locked and barred. People conjectured they
+were made for the purpose of holding his treasures, of which he was
+reputed to possess hoards. The whole building was the most massive,
+curious, complicated piece of architecture I ever beheld; and such an
+air of mystery and gloom as pervaded the whole place! It was impossible
+to elucidate the feelings one was sure to have, as they traversed those
+dismal-looking rooms. The sight of so much solid masonry seemed
+generative of the darkest designs. In one room were two very large, deep
+wells. Some of the floors were constructed of stone. The grounds were to
+be inclosed by a high wall. There were complicated wings, and high,
+gloomy-looking turrets, projecting in every direction from the main
+building. After being completed, it will present more the appearance of
+a prison than a private residence.
+
+Now, I will relate one hen story; not about a renowned Shanghai, but a
+genuine, old-fashioned, yellow hen. Hens at that time, in California,
+were among the things to be coveted: the meanest specimens were sold at
+five dollars apiece. Some of the Spanish population kept quite a number
+of fowl. A lady told me she wanted to purchase a male hen; that an old
+Spaniard came to her house one day, who, she knew, had fowl to sell.
+_She_ could not speak Spanish; neither could he English. She was very
+much perplexed how to make him know that she wanted a crower. She used
+every Spanish word she could think of with no success at all. Finally,
+she sprang up in a chair, flapped her arms, and crowed with all her
+might. That crow enlightened the Spaniard more than all her Spanish
+vocabulary had done.
+
+When I lived in the canvas shanty, a partition of cloth ran across the
+centre of the building. On one side of the partition stood my bed, and
+on the other my brother’s. An outer door opened into this room. One day,
+an old yellow hen walked in very unceremoniously, hopped upon the bed,
+and prepared to lay. Soon she jumped off, and left an egg. She conducted
+the whole affair with the greatest secrecy, not even indulging in that
+greatest luxury of all, cackling. Of course, I fed her, very glad indeed
+of her egg, as they were fifty cents apiece. The next day, she came
+again, and left another; and so she kept on, until she had laid twelve;
+when she evinced symptoms of a desire to sit upon the nest. My brother
+took her eggs, carried them out to a ranch, and exchanged them for those
+that would be sure to hatch. He then placed them in a half barrel in the
+corner of the room, and set the hen upon them. In due time she brought
+out twelve little chicks. When they were about a month old, I sold them
+for a dollar apiece. She then laid another litter of eggs, and was as
+successful in raising another brood of chickens. Then, as we were going
+to leave the shanty, I sold her, chickens and all, for twenty dollars.
+
+After I had been living at the Tremont some time, I went to my room one
+day, and there, on the window-seat, was perched the identical old hen
+that I had sold. My window was open, and she had flown in. She appeared
+delighted to see me, and evinced her delight by singing quite merrily.
+She seemed determined to room with me, and I allowed her to remain until
+I could go and find the one to whom I sold her. He had moved, and was
+not to be found. Of course, the hen was mine again; but, situated as I
+now was, I could not accommodate her with a room in the house, and for
+which she seemed to have a decided predilection. I therefore placed her
+to board out on a ranch. She continued to lay eggs and raise chickens,
+until I realized, from the sale of them, forty-five dollars. I then sold
+her again for five dollars, as she was getting rather old. In one week
+after I sold her, she died, from _grief, I suppose, at being sold_. From
+that old yellow hen I made quite a _pile_, as they say in California.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+
+I recollect the execution of one man in Marysville, which created quite
+an excitement in town. One day my ears were assailed with the most
+piercing shrieks. Upon inquiry, I learned that a man had been arrested
+by the Vigilance Committee for stealing. A great crowd had collected in
+the street in front of the committee’s rooms, among whom was the wife of
+the man arrested; and hers were the shrieks which rent the air. Two
+little children were following her, crying, “You shall not hang my
+father! you must not kill him!” Finally the committee rendered him up
+into the hands of the law. He had his trial, was condemned, and
+sentenced to be hung. While he was in jail, awaiting his execution, a
+lady in town gave a little party for her children. While they were
+taking tea, she saw the two children of the doomed man going past. Pity
+for the children, so soon to be left fatherless, incited her to call
+them in, and seat them at the table spread with delicacies. After they
+had partaken of the treat, and gone out to play, the girl who was
+clearing the table missed one of the silver spoons. Something prompted
+her to go to those two children to inquire for it. She thought the boy
+betrayed signs of guilt. She took hold of his arm, and felt the spoon in
+his jacket-sleeve. He cried bitterly, and said he did not want to steal,
+but his mother told him if he did not, whenever he had an opportunity,
+she would whip him severely. Perhaps the father had been stimulated to
+commit thefts by similar threats from his wife; and certainly, if her
+evil propensities had so far gained the ascendency as to cause her to
+instil such principles into the minds of her children, to what evils
+would she not resort, to gain her object?
+
+The night previous to the day upon which he was to be executed, she made
+an attempt to fire the city, in the hope, doubtless, that her
+accomplices in guilt would effect his liberation while the attention of
+the citizens would be directed to the fire. She was, however,
+unsuccessful. Had the stable burnt which she attempted to fire, the
+whole city would probably have been destroyed. The owner of the stable
+had just returned from a journey, and was throwing some hay into the
+rack for his horse. In, the meantime, she approached, ignited a bunch of
+matches, and thrust them under the side of the building, directly
+against this hayrack. It blazed up, which the man no sooner saw than he
+caught a large blanket, threw it into the rack, and jumped down upon it.
+By this means, the flames were extinguished, but not, however, without
+quite severely scorching the man. She was carefully guarded after this.
+
+The next day, she begged permission to visit her husband in his cell.
+She was allowed to go, but not alone; but, somehow or other, she managed
+(they supposed) to slip something into his hand, for, a short time after
+the interview, when they went to take him to the gallows, they found him
+insensible, whether from fear, or from something which he had taken,
+they could not ascertain.
+
+He was taken to the gallows, and the forms of execution enacted,
+although he manifested no appearance of life whatever. While this last
+act was being performed, it required six or seven women to hold the
+wife. She was perfectly frantic.
+
+Every day, for some time after, might be seen this woman, dressed in a
+garb of the deepest mourning, holding each of her children by the hand,
+and traversing the streets, apparently in great distress. It was thought
+she made this public display of grief to excite sympathy. Soon after
+this, she disappeared from the city.
+
+It often made me feel sad, during my residence in California, to see the
+people recently from the Atlantic states so hopeful and buoyant in
+spirits, anticipating such rich harvests of gold, with which they would
+return to their homes and families, I knew so well the sufferings and
+hardships they would be likely to endure before they could return, if
+they ever did. But I ever refrained from casting a shade of melancholy
+over the bright future in prospective by prophetic warnings. I recollect
+one gentleman in particular, who was so sanguine of success.
+
+He departed for the mines, and, in three months from that time, was
+brought back, crippled for life! While blasting rocks, he had one arm so
+shattered that he was obliged to have it amputated above the elbow. Both
+eyes were rendered sightless for life, and the other hand and arm very
+much injured. What a pitiable-looking object he was! and how he begged
+of the doctors to use every endeavor to save the remaining hand and arm!
+He had a wife and three little children in the state of Maine, dependent
+on him for a support. It was in vain the doctors tried, by extracting
+piece after piece of splintered rock, to save the last hand. It was
+amputated at the wrist. How philosophically he bore his sufferings! Not
+a groan escaped his lips; but, by the workings of his countenance, one
+could perceive his agony was extreme. Money was raised in Marysville
+sufficient to defray his expenses home; and a fellow-townsman of the
+sufferer volunteered to accompany him as nurse. I never heard aught
+concerning him again.
+
+I often amused myself for hours, studying, not human nature, but mule
+nature. It is really astonishing to witness those pack-mules, and see
+the wonderful knowledge they display by their manœuvres. In packing them
+for a trip to the mountains, the Mexicans load them unmercifully. They
+make them carry loads weighing from three hundred to three hundred and
+fifty pounds, and strap the articles on so tightly that I should think
+it would stop their breaths. The poor creatures will tremble under such
+an unmerciful load, and sometimes I have seen them, after going a little
+way, fall from exhaustion, and the weight of their load. Then those
+cruel Mexicans would beat them, until the blood would run from their
+noses; and, if they were very much reduced from previous hard usage,
+they would die, with that heavy pack strapped to them. These pack-mules
+have such a horror of going with their loads to the mountains, that,
+after they are packed, and are waiting for the remainder of the train,
+(these trains sometimes consist of fifty and sixty mules,) they will
+endeavor to secrete themselves away behind some building or wagon, and
+keep so very still and quiet, seemingly listening and hoping they may
+not be found. By and by, when the old, cruel Mexican warns them of his
+presence by a heavy slap with the piece of untanned hide he invariably
+carries in his hand, accompanied with the expression of _hippa, mula!_
+one can almost see a shade of the deepest despair cross the poor mule’s
+countenance, as he joins the train, which is going to travel many weary,
+tedious miles, over rough mountains, and through deep ravines.
+
+These trains are led by a horse, with a bell attached to his neck. He
+is designated the bellhorse; and these mules have such an affection for
+him, that they will follow anywhere he goes. Generally, three or four
+Mexicans accompany each train. When night overtakes them, they unpack
+the animals, and form a sort of corral of the pack-saddles, which they
+place in a circle around the goods, which they lay in piles, each load
+beside the saddle upon which it belongs. The mules are turned out to
+graze. In the morning, after giving them their breakfasts, at a signal
+from the Mexicans, each mule places himself in a position to be packed
+beside his own saddle; and, what is very singular, each mule knows his
+own saddle, and never makes a mistake by placing himself beside his
+neighbor’s.
+
+When they return to the valley again, they are so delighted, that when
+they get to within a mile or two of the town, they commence running, and
+braying at the top of their voices. And then look out for the dust! Such
+clouds of it as they will raise in passing a house, is almost
+suffocating. You must hasten, and close the doors and windows, otherwise
+the house will be filled.
+
+“As stubborn as a mule,” is an old adage; and I have seen this maxim
+verified oftentimes. I have seen them so obstinate, you might kill, but
+never conquer. Perhaps it is this stubborn nature which some of them
+(not all) possess, that causes the Mexicans to be so ugly to them. In
+order to pack some of them, they are obliged to be chained and blinded.
+What struggles I have seen between the Mexican and his mule! I have
+heard them say, that a real malicious one would purposely run, so that
+he could dash with great violence his pack against a rock or tree, and
+smash it to pieces; then, if it contained ought eatable, devour it with
+all haste before the driver could reach him. And many such “ugly capers”
+are imputed to his muleship.
+
+At one time, there was great excitement in the mountains respecting the
+mysterious disappearance of a man named Dunbar, who kept a public-house
+on the trail leading from Marysville to Onion Valley, on Slate Creek.
+These public-houses, by the way, were nothing more than little shanties;
+and the only servant generally employed about them was a cook.
+Travellers who passed and repassed Dunbar’s house, and found no one
+there but his cook, (a young man formerly from Lowell, Massachusetts,)
+naturally inquired for Dunbar, and was told that he had gone to San
+Francisco. Finally, the house was closed. Then suspicions were rife
+that there had been foul play. About that time, as a hunter was passing
+the deserted house, his dog ran into the corral, and began scratching in
+the snow, and howling incessantly. His master in vain tried to call him
+away. He then went to the spot, dug away the snow, and discovered a
+man’s hand and arm protruding from the earth. He dug away the earth, and
+there was the body of Dunbar, bent double, thus tied with a rope, and
+stamped into that slight excavation.
+
+The cook, very naturally, was the first person suspected of perpetrating
+this horrid murder. He was traced to San Francisco and arrested, just as
+he was stepping on board a steamer bound to Panama. He was accused of
+the murder, appeared very much agitated, and finally confessed what he
+knew about the affair. One night, two people came from a mining locality
+near by to Dunbar’s house, and requested a night’s lodging. They
+frequently came there, and passed the night. That evening, they played
+cards with Dunbar; and, in the course of the evening, he had occasion to
+go to a chest which stood in the room, and deposit some money. In this
+chest was about five thousand dollars. Whether they saw it, or whether
+he told them he had it, he (the cook) did not know.
+
+One of the men came to him in the kitchen, and disclosed their
+intentions of murdering Dunbar that night, and securing his money, which
+they would share with him, if he would take an oath of eternal secrecy;
+if not, his life would pay the forfeit. Fear compelled him to agree to
+this proposal. Just then, Dunbar and the other villain came into the
+kitchen, and advanced to the outer door; whereupon the other one caught
+up an axe near by, and struck Dunbar a blow on the back of the head,
+causing him to fall. Then followed another blow, which completed the
+work of death. He was then buried as above described, and the money
+taken possession of by the murderers. Said he, “They offered me a share
+of their ill-gotten treasures; but no--I would not pollute my fingers by
+receiving one dollar of their blood-stained gold. Dunbar was a friend to
+me, and gladly would I have saved him from the horrid death which
+awaited him, had it been in my power so to do; but I was paralyzed with
+terror at the horrid revelation to which I had just listened. When they
+departed, I should have hastened to some authority, and made instant
+disclosure of the whole transaction; but was deterred from so doing by
+the fear of being murdered by those fiends in human shape.
+
+“I then determined to leave the country; which determination I was in
+the act of putting into execution when arrested.
+
+“I declare to you, I am innocent of all or any participation whatever in
+the horrid affair.”
+
+The two murderers were at once arrested. They had changed their place of
+residence, but were soon ferreted out; and all three were sentenced to
+be hung at Slate Creek. My brother was present at the execution. The two
+murderers died as they had lived--hardened sinners--profaning and
+blaspheming until the last.
+
+The cook declared his innocence to the latest moment, and begged, even
+after the rope was adjusted about his neck, to be allowed to write to
+his wife. This boon was granted him. He then asked if he might make a
+few remarks. He commenced; and so eloquently did he plead for pardon, so
+heart-softening were his remarks, that, had not the mob been so
+exasperated by previous horrid disclosures made by the two murderers, he
+would and ought to have been pardoned. They had gone so far as to say,
+“All who are in favor of hanging this man, go down the hill; and all who
+are not, go up;” and, as the majority started to go down the hill, some
+of the more ferocious ones caught the rope, and ran with it, jerking
+him from the ground, and consummating a murder equally as cold-blooded
+as the one for which that innocent man had been arraigned.
+
+One more story of blood and murder I will relate, and then close the
+calendar of murders. As I was sitting in the parlor, one day, I saw the
+people in the street all running towards the front of the hotel. I
+stepped out upon the balcony to ascertain the cause of this unusual
+excitement, and beheld a sight that almost curdled the blood in my
+veins. There lay the form of a man, dead. His clothes were saturated
+with blood; his ghastly face upturned; and upon his death-stamped
+features rested a look of mortal agony. It was the body of one well
+known in our midst. He was coming from one of the mining bars above
+Marysville, driving a mule-team, when he was accosted by a man whom he
+overtook on the road with a request to give him a ride; which request he
+accordingly granted. The stranger jumped into the wagon, and took a seat
+behind the teamster. They conversed as they rode along, until they came
+to an unfrequented part of the road, when the stranger suddenly plunged
+a knife into the body of the teamster. It was a murderous blow, and
+carried death in its unerring aim. He robbed the dying man of four
+hundred dollars, which he had in his pocket, and then decamped. The man
+was not instantly killed, but, before he breathed his last, was found by
+a traveller, to whom he told the story, and also gave a description of
+the murderer, who was afterwards taken and executed. The murdered man
+left a wife and family to mourn his loss.
+
+Many more murders, equally revolting, I might recount; but I have told
+enough to give one an idea of the crime existing at that time in
+California. I need not say, at that time; it still exists, and, I fear,
+ever will. Vigilance committees may, for a while, intimidate the
+blood-thirsty villains; but they can never rid the country of _all_
+those pests of society who have there congregated to feast their evil
+propensities upon the lives and property of the unwary and unsuspecting.
+
+Early in the year 1849, an enterprising, energetic young man, left the
+town of D----, situated in one of the Western States, to seek his
+fortune in California. He was already in possession of a sum sufficient
+to defray his expenses to those golden shores, which held forth so many
+charms to an adventurous spirit, leaving but little remaining in his
+purse upon his arrival.
+
+Glittering visions of lumps of gold haunted his waking, as well as
+sleeping, moments. He was restless and impatient, until he found himself
+bounding gayly over the wild, heaving billows of the broad Atlantic.
+Being an orphan, deprived, at an early age, of the watchful tenderness
+of a mother’s love, the judicious precepts and examples of a father, he
+had learned early in life the salutary lesson of self-reliance. No sad
+yearnings filled his heart, as he paced the steamer’s deck on the eve of
+departure. The delights and social joys of a pleasant home left behind,
+the remembrance of a loving mother’s tearful farewell, rose not in his
+mind, to cause the tear of affection and regret to bedew his cheek. He
+was leaving none behind to mourn his departure. To him the future looked
+bright and beautiful, as it ever does to the young, hopeful, and
+aspiring heart, over which the chilling waves and bitter disappointments
+of the cold, selfish world has never rolled.
+
+There was one passenger on board, who, from his taciturn, repulsive
+manner, had made no friends, and formed no acquaintances. A few days
+before their arrival at Chagres, he was missed from his accustomed seat
+at table. He no more paced the deck with that quick, uncertain tread,
+ever accompanied with those nervous, stealthy glances bestowed on all
+around, and which had occasioned so many remarks at his expense, by no
+means flattering or complimentary. He was confined to his berth from
+sickness.
+
+They reached the isthmus of Panama. All were hastening to secure their
+passage upon the steamer then waiting at Panama to convey them to their
+destined port. Each and all were struggling for themselves. The party to
+which the hero of my story had attached himself were toiling on their
+“winding way,” when their attention was attracted to a hammock,
+suspended between two trees, in which, to all appearance, lay a man in
+the agonies of death. They hastened to his side, and discovered, to
+their surprise, the repulsive stranger of steamer memory. In a feeble
+voice, he besought them, in mercy, to take him along, and not leave him
+to die alone! It appeared he had employed some natives to take him
+across the isthmus. They had quarrelled among themselves, purloined the
+last dollar from the sick man, (Mr. B----,) and vamosed, leaving him to
+the fate which was inevitable, unless he was assisted and provided for
+immediately. The hot fever-blood was coursing wildly through his swollen
+veins; yet there was but one, in that company of men, whose heart was
+touched by the appealing looks of the apparently dying man, or whose eye
+moistened as the half-articulate words were gasped, “Oh! in God’s name,
+leave me not here, to die alone!”
+
+As some extenuation for the apparently heartless course pursued by all
+that company of emigrants, (all except one,) I will state their relative
+circumstances. They had purchased their tickets at an exorbitant price,
+with perhaps the last dollar at their command. The steamer was waiting;
+time was pressing; at such a day she was going to leave Panama, and, if
+not there, they lost their passage. Panama was crowded with people,
+waiting to get even a foothold upon the deck of any floating craft that
+would bear them to the desired haven. The delay that must necessarily
+accrue from assisting that suffering person would, in all probability,
+cost them their passage, and they would be left penniless in a foreign
+land.
+
+The call of suffering humanity was counterbalanced by the whisperings of
+self. They soliloquized, and hushed the breathings of conscience with
+thoughts like these: “I must look to my own interest. No one would lend
+a helping hand to raise _me_, if I were sinking. He did not make
+friends with us when in health and prosperity; but now, when he is
+dying, he calls for succor from those he formerly shunned. I cannot
+assist him. He will probably die before night. I must hurry on.” So they
+did hurry on, all except Mr. W----. _His_ heart was boiling over with
+the “milk of human kindness.” Said he, “If I go on, and leave this man
+to die alone, the image of his pale, sad face will be ever by my side.
+The memory of my heartless conduct will cast a dark shade over my whole
+future existence. I _cannot_ and I _will not_ be so soulless.”
+
+In a softened voice he addressed the now nearly unconscious man, and,
+taking the feverish hand in his, said he, “Cease your anxiety. I will
+stay with you, and take care of you.” One by one, he saw all his company
+depart; and he was alone with the sick one, in the unbroken solitudes of
+a Granadian forest. He held a flask of water to the lips of the
+sufferer, and bathed his fevered brow. This somewhat revived him. Hours
+passed on, and they were still alone. Finally, two Carthaginians came
+along, and were induced, by the promise of a liberal reward, to carry
+the sick man to Panama. After a toilsome journey, which well-nigh proved
+fatal to Mr. B----, they arrived at Panama, but were too late for the
+steamer: she had been gone nearly a day. There was no alternative but to
+wait until they could secure a passage upon another. Mr. W----’s funds
+were fast dwindling away before the exorbitant demands of the Panama
+“land-sharks.” Who, among those who were compelled to remain there days
+and weeks, when the tide of emigration was rushing irresistibly on
+towards the far-famed gold placers of California, can _ever_ forget the
+merciless drain upon their purses?
+
+When able to converse, the invalid informed Mr. W---- that he had a
+valuable cargo on board a vessel then on her way around Cape Horn; and
+that, upon her arrival at San Francisco, in part payment of the debt of
+gratitude he owed to him, he (Mr. W----) should receive a share of the
+profits derived from the sale thereof. He also spoke of a failure in
+business which had occurred a short time previous to his departure; but
+omitted to mention, however, the fact that he had acted very dishonestly
+as regarded that failure, and also that he had been very unceremoniously
+smuggled on board the steamer, to elude the vigilance of officers of
+justice. He expected his wife to join him soon in California: perhaps
+she might come on the next steamer.
+
+They were detained in Panama four weeks, during which time he was
+carefully nursed by Mr. W----. In the meantime, his wife arrived, with
+money sufficient to purchase a ticket for her husband. Mr. W---- had not
+the wherewithal to purchase one; therefore, he procured a situation as
+waiter on board. Upon their arrival at San Francisco, as the ship was
+not due for some two months, Mr. W---- concluded to proceed at once to
+the mines.
+
+Every day, at that time, might have been seen little companies of men,
+with their blankets and tin pans strapped to their backs, commencing
+their toilsome march into the interior. Far up those mighty streams they
+wandered, and penetrated far into the solitary fastnesses of those
+mountain gorges, where the foot of white man never trod before. Forming
+one of a party of miners who followed the course of the American River,
+was our friend W----. For three weary months they prospected in those
+dreary wilds, camping out, rolling themselves in their blankets, with no
+roof to shelter them from the night air. The twinkling stars, far, far
+above them, peeping out a gentle good-night from the azure dome, were
+like messengers of hope to those poor wayfarers. Sickness overtook them,
+and death thinned their numbers. Out of a company of ten, but three
+returned to San Francisco. One of those three was Mr. W----. Sick,
+disheartened, and so emaciated he could scarcely support his feeble
+frame, he dragged himself to the door of the only hospital in San
+Francisco, and begged for admittance.
+
+For many weeks he lay hovering at the portal of death’s mysterious door.
+Finally, a strong constitution triumphed: this once, the destroying
+angel was cheated of its prey. He recovered slowly, and, at the
+expiration of many weeks, found himself treading the streets of San
+Francisco, weak, penniless, and alone--alone, in a land of strangers. He
+bethought himself of Mr. B----, made inquiries concerning him, and
+ascertained that the ship had arrived which had contained his property;
+that he had disposed of it at an immense profit, and had gone to reside
+in Sacramento city. Slowly and painfully he dragged his weakened frame
+to one of the piers from whence departed the up-river boats, and gained
+a hearing with one of the captains, to whom he stated his situation. He
+very kindly gave him a passage to “Sac’ city.” When landed upon the
+Levee, it was mid-day. So weak was he that it was late in the afternoon
+before he reached the residence of Mr. B----. Upon inquiring for that
+gentleman, Mrs. B---- made her appearance. She did not recognize him at
+first, so changed was he by sickness and poverty. Then, in cold,
+heartless words, she expressed her sorrow at his unfortunate condition,
+hoped he would get along without any more sickness, and coolly closed
+the door in his face.
+
+Imagine his feelings as he turned from that door, sick in body, and
+sicker far at heart at this display of sordid selfishness and heartless
+ingratitude. He crawled back again to the Levee, where he remained that
+night, supperless, shelterless, and penniless. He again solicited a
+passage to Marysville, where resided an acquaintance of his who kept a
+hotel. To him he applied for a situation to work; for, sick as he was,
+his independent spirit spurned the idea of begging. He was at once
+engaged to wash dishes; for which service he received seventy-five
+dollars per month. After serving awhile in this capacity, he was
+promoted to steward, with an increase of salary. From this post he was
+admitted as a partner; and, from that day, “Dame Fortune” lavished upon
+him her richest gifts.
+
+Just three years from the time he composed his wearied limbs for a
+night’s rest, in the open air, on the banks of the Sacramento, he was
+standing again upon the same spot, but under what different auspices!
+Had prosperity changed his noble heart, that, a little more than three
+years ago, listened and “wept for others’ woes”? Ah, no! the same
+generous impulses governed his every action. His upright, honest
+principles grew and strengthened with his fortune, instead of
+deteriorating, as is oftentimes the case.
+
+Curiosity prompted him to inquire after the welfare of Mr. B----. He
+learned he was a houseless vagabond around the streets of San Francisco.
+From affluence, he was reduced to a state of beggary. His wife had
+proved faithless, and decamped with all the money she could get. In
+endeavoring to drown his sorrow in the intoxicating cup, he had lost,
+dollar by dollar, the remainder of his fortune. That for which he had
+sacrificed honor, principle, and every trait which ennobles and exalts
+man, had “taken to itself wings,” and the misguided man was bereft of
+all which renders life a blessing. From this “ower true” tale may be
+deduced a moral.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+
+In the fall of 1852, my brother was in the mines, on the north fork of
+the Yuba, about one hundred miles above Marysville. As the rainy season
+was commencing, and knowing his claims to be on the river, where they
+could not be worked except in the dry season, I was daily expecting him
+to arrive in Marysville, as he had written to that effect; yet he came
+not. Daily I heard accounts of large quantities of snow falling; and it
+finally fell to such a depth, that all communication with the
+settlements in the mountains was cut off before the winter’s supply of
+provisions had been transported thither. Fears were entertained that the
+mountain population would suffer incredibly for the want of food; and so
+they did. Finally, a straggling, emaciated, exhausted party arrived in
+town from Downieville, which is eighty miles distant from Marysville.
+
+Fifty miles of the route they had traversed over snow, which lay to the
+depth of ten and fifteen feet, and part of the time sinking, at every
+step, up to their arm-pits in it. Two or three of their number had given
+out and died on the way. The reports they brought were dismal in the
+extreme. They said the entire male population would be obliged to leave
+Downieville, and get to Marysville, if possible, or die in the attempt,
+as there were only provisions enough in town when they left to supply
+the women and children.
+
+What anxiety I felt on my brother’s account, knowing that he must depend
+upon Downieville for his supplies! No tidings whatever could I obtain of
+him, and did not for four months. During this time, remnants of parties
+were arriving, completely exhausted, and reporting great distress in the
+mountains. At the expiration of that time, the express-men opened for
+themselves a passage through the snow. Then I received a letter, stating
+the following particulars:
+
+He had made every preparation for leaving his log cabin as soon as there
+was any appearance of snow, when one of his partners (he had two) was
+violently seized with the mountain fever. Then came the first fall of
+snow. What could they do? They could not leave him to die alone, and it
+was impossible to move him. For one month he was constantly delirious.
+He had no physician to attend him, and there he lay, day and night,
+talking to his mother and friends at home, in happy unconsciousness of
+his deplorable situation. The snow fell until it lay to the depth of
+fifteen feet.
+
+Downieville was twenty miles distant, and thither one of them must go to
+obtain provisions; for they were entirely destitute of everything in the
+eatable line, and almost destitute of money. They had sent their gold to
+Marysville the day before the partner was taken sick, reserving only
+sufficient to defray their expenses down.
+
+My brother started to go to Downieville, previously assisting his
+partner to tie the sick man on to his pallet of straw; for, in moments
+of violent delirium, one person could not compete with him in strength.
+
+In an exhausted state he reached Downieville, and found provisions very
+scarce, and dear as gold dust. For ham he paid eighty cents per pound;
+for flour, one dollar and a half per pound; and everything in a like
+proportion. For one ten pounds of flour, which he bought during the
+winter, he paid twenty-five dollars. He wanted to get some corn meal to
+make gruel for the sick man, and succeeded in getting one pound, for
+which he paid the exorbitant sum of two dollars.
+
+With a back-load of provisions--which weighed sixty-one pounds, and cost
+one hundred dollars--he started back. Several times, on the way, he
+felt as if he should never live to reach the little cabin; but he
+finally arrived there. “Oh,” said he, “what dreary days and nights we
+passed in that log cabin, listening to the moanings of the sick man,
+whom we were hourly expecting to breathe his last, surrounded and hemmed
+in by impassable barriers of snow! We could not wile away the time
+evenings by reading, for we had no oil or candles: a little grease in a
+tin plate, with a rag in it, was all we had to light in case of
+emergency. Our cabin was completely covered with snow. We kept a hole
+open from the door up to the surface. Mornings, upon going out, the
+foot-prints of large grisly bears would be all around in the snow, over
+the top of the cabin. When we had consumed all the provisions which I
+had taken up, we both started again for more, leaving the sick man
+alone; but he was wholly unconscious, and never knew of our absence.
+What little we could get this time was even higher than before; and the
+climate had a tendency to give us such good appetites. We boiled those
+ham bones until they were as white as polished ivory. For two or three
+days we subsisted upon water-gruel.
+
+“I then started again for Downieville, so hungry and faint, I thought I
+should never reach there. I had no money; but a trader in Downieville,
+who was acquainted with my circumstances, kindly offered to furnish me
+with provisions, upon credit. As I was passing a hotel, I smelled the
+dinner, and stepped upon the stoop, wishing--oh, how earnestly!--that I
+had the wherewithal to procure a dinner. But I was ‘flat broke,’ as the
+saying is there, when one is out of funds. Presently I was accosted by a
+fellow who once mined with me in the country. Said he, ‘What is the
+matter, Bryant? What makes you look so down-hearted? Are you flat
+broke?’--‘Yes,’ said I, ‘and starving, besides.’--Not while I have the
+color,’ said he, and put five dollars into my hand. With this I bought
+myself a good dinner; and it was a wonder I survived it, for I assure
+you I did eat some.
+
+“Thus we lived on for four long, weary months. The fever settled in the
+sick man’s toes, and they all decayed. Finally, he began to convalesce;
+but it was six months from the time he was taken with the fever before
+he was able to walk. How grateful he felt to us, who had almost
+sacrificed our lives to stay by and nurse him! He would cry, and say,
+‘If I am ever worth a fortune, you shall share it with me.’ Before I
+left the country, he had been able to earn a little money. He came to
+see me, and proffered the whole, as he said, to compensate, in a
+measure, for my kindness to him. Of course, I refused to accept of one
+dollar; for he then looked too feeble to work.
+
+“During all these winter months, we never shot but one deer; and then we
+feasted! The snow lay to such a depth, we could not go hunting; and game
+was very scarce, too.
+
+“The provisions which we consumed during three months amounted to five
+hundred dollars, and then never had as much as would satisfy our
+appetites at any one meal.”
+
+My brother described the snow-slides in the mountains as grand and
+frightful. A body of snow would commence rolling at the summit of a
+mountain, collecting and increasing in size as it rolled, until it came
+with such velocity, and in such a mass, that it would snap off large
+trees in its descent as easily as if they had been whip-sticks. One
+could hear the rushing, roaring sound it made, for miles. It is
+necessary to build their cabins in such a position that they will not be
+in danger of annihilation from these slides. Cabins have been swept
+away, and the inmates killed, by snow-slides.
+
+As soon as the rocks around the cabin began to get bare, they began to
+crevice for gold. One night, while his partner was preparing supper, my
+brother took out seventeen dollars (in little lumps) with a
+crevicing-spoon.
+
+A lady once told me, who had lived in the mountains, that every day,
+after her housework was done up, she would take her crevicing-spoon, and
+go out among the rocks searching for gold. She resided there one year,
+and, during that time, had collected five hundred dollars in that way.
+
+When the spring opened, my brother concluded to remain through the dry
+season, and for eighteen months he was a dweller in those mountain
+solitudes, and not once during that time visiting the valley. In his
+rambles, one day, he found the skeleton of a human being. What sad
+reflections the sight of those bones called up! He dug a grave, and
+buried them.
+
+The grisly bears were quite plenty around them; and one day, while they
+were out mining, “Old Bruin” made a descent into their cabin, helping
+himself to everything the place contained, and overturning tin pans,
+pots, and kettles, and everything within his reach. He swallowed all
+their butter, for which they had paid one dollar and a half per pound,
+and marched off, no doubt delighted with the feast he had enjoyed at
+the expense of the poor miners. When they returned, tired and hungry, to
+their shanty, to prepare their frugal meal, they were struck with the
+utmost consternation at beholding the havoc made within,--by whom, they
+readily conjectured, for there were his large footprints, very
+conspicuous. Then there was no alternative but to go, tired as they
+were, to Downieville, (twenty miles,) and back up more provisions. Then
+they baited old Bruin with a piece of meat, loaded their guns, and lay
+in wait for him all day and night; but he never came again. Whether his
+digestive organs were incapable of performing the necessary functions
+after such an expensive feast, or whether he was so cunning as to
+suspect they would watch for his return, they never knew.
+
+At one time an old hunter came to their cabin with his dog, and reported
+himself to be very expert at killing grislys. They took their guns, and
+accompanied him. They soon routed an enormously large bear, whose roar
+seemed to shake the earth. He first turned his attention to the dog,
+which appeared terribly frightened, and ran away as fast as his legs
+would carry him. Then he turned upon the brave hunters, who quickly
+followed the example of the dog. They fled to some tall trees, upon
+which there was not a limb for twenty or thirty feet from the base. They
+exerted every faculty to shin up those naked trunks. My brother, who was
+not a little frightened, thought that, at least, he was twenty feet from
+the ground, when, upon looking down, he found he was not more than five.
+How he redoubled his efforts! for the bear was making after them at a
+furious rate. After clearing the field of his antagonists, and giving
+two or three tremendous roars in honor of victory, he marched off into
+the surrounding forest. After this, they were engaged in several more
+successful bear-hunts.
+
+At one time, he was mining on Cañon Creek, and had occasion to cross the
+mountains to Slate Range. Many of these mountains are perennially
+covered with snow. When travelling in the mountains, clothes more than
+you have on your back are burdensome and unnecessary.
+
+After going a short distance from the camp, he hung an overcoat on the
+limb of a tree, set his carpet-bag at the foot of it, and buried what
+gold he had with him at a short distance from the tree, carefully noting
+the spot. He then pursued his journey. Upon arriving at his destination,
+his mining operations detained him there eight months. When he
+returned, he found his coat hanging upon the same limb; his carpet-bag
+was unmolested; and he found his gold just as he had left it. Clothes,
+in the mountains, are no temptation to a person’s cupidity, if he has a
+suit on his back.
+
+At one time, in company with two or three others, started to go from one
+mining locality to another. They were obliged to camp out for four
+nights upon the snow; and in some of the deep ravines, which were filled
+by the sliding of the snow into them, they judged it to be at least
+fifty feet in depth. Nights, they would roll themselves in their
+blankets, and lie down upon the snow, with nought above them but the
+blue dome of the star-lighted heavens, and sleep as soundly, and be
+visited by dreams as sweet, as ever blessed their midnight slumbers in
+nicely carpeted chambers, on beds of down.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+Before I leave California, I must give you a sketch of John
+Chinaman,--not the Johns in general, but a particular John, who lived in
+the Tremont Hotel as a chamber servant for more than a year. He could
+talk good broken English, was quick in his motions, and very neat. I
+liked John better than any other of the chamber servants, he was so
+faithful. Often I would be so amused at his remarks, that I would have
+to stop, and laugh heartily. Then he would look _so_ perplexed, and say,
+“What you laughee so for, Missa Bessa?” He invariably called the name
+Bates, Bessa.
+
+He had been in California four years, during all of which time he had
+been out to service, never receiving less than one hundred dollars per
+month. He had about three thousand dollars out at interest, for which he
+received three per cent. a month. He was very penurious, never indulging
+in any luxury, save most excellent tea, which he kept for his own
+private use.
+
+Sometimes, when I would be sick, he would come to my door, bringing a
+cup of his tea, and say, “You drinkee this, Missa Bessa; make you well
+quick.” He placed implicit faith in the healing properties of his tea.
+
+His money, his tea, and his cue were his especial delight. Days when he
+would have a great deal to do, engaging his time until late in the
+evening, he would never retire, however tired he might be, without
+first combing, oiling, and braiding his cue. This he kept coiled around
+on the top of his head; and, instead of keeping the remaining portion of
+his pate shaved, as they generally do, he allowed it to grow, and kept
+it cut, after the fashion of the Americans. When he had his hat upon his
+head, one would never suppose he had a cue. He was the best-looking
+Chinaman I ever saw, and came from Ningpo.
+
+Upon first arriving in California, he went as house servant to Senator
+Gwin. Afterwards, he lived with a Mr. Peck. He would say sometimes,
+“Only three very good ladees in Californee.”--“Who are those,
+John?”--“Missa Gwina, Missa Pecka, and Missa Bessa. Missa Gwina, she one
+very good ladee; she talkee, laughee, all day long, eat watermelon,
+drink champagne; she one very good ladee.” John seemed to estimate the
+qualifications of Mrs. Gwin by the quantity of good and expensive things
+which she ate and drank. Watermelons were twelve dollars apiece, and
+champagne ten dollars per bottle. Then he would say, “Missa Pecka one
+very good ladee, but she too fatter. Missa Bessa, she no too fatter; she
+too smallee, too sickee (sometimes I would have ill turns); she go home
+to her mudder; me go too. She too smallee; I be her servant.” He seemed
+very much attached to me, and was always ready and willing to wait upon
+me.
+
+One day, he was very unceremoniously rushed into matrimony. The
+particulars of this hurried marriage were as follows: John was one day
+passing along one of the streets occupied mostly by Chinese, when his
+ears were assailed with horrid screams which issued from a building near
+by. He burst in the door, which was fastened, and there found a Canton
+Chinaman unmercifully beating one of his slaves, a young girl of about
+sixteen years. John, who was very tender-hearted, could not bear to see
+that; so he knocked down the Chinaman, took the girl, whom he never saw
+until then, and ran with her to the hotel, and wanted me to secrete her
+in my room. It appears there is an almost deadly feud existing between
+the Canton and Ningpo Chinamen. As soon as the Canton Chinaman recovered
+himself sufficiently to realize what had happened, he collected about
+thirty of his partisans, and started to arrest John for assaulting him,
+and carrying off his slave.
+
+This was apprehended by the people at the hotel, who all felt very much
+interested for John. They told him, in order to prevent the girl from
+being taken back by her cruel master, he must marry her. Then he could
+retain her as his wife; but could not be sustained in secreting away
+another’s slave. To this arrangement John readily acquiesced, and was
+hurried off to an esquire; an interpreter obtained,--for the bride elect
+could not articulate one word of English,--and the ceremony commenced.
+When John was asked if he would take that woman to be his wedded wife,
+his reply was, “Yes, me takee her: me lovee her; she lovee me. Canton
+Chinaman no get her, no whipee her. Me be good to her; take good care of
+her. She be my little wife!” And he ran on with such a tirade, they
+thought they should never check him.
+
+They were married before her master found her; and therefore he never
+recovered his slave. John had a small house in the back yard of the
+hotel, and in it he placed his wife. She was not domestic at all, and
+there she sat with her hands folded, when not engaged in embroidering.
+And there I left them when I started for the States.
+
+Most of the washing and ironing in California is performed by Chinamen.
+They take the clothes to the rivers, and beat them on stones and boards,
+which they place in particular positions. Their clothes-lines are
+stretched all along the banks of the river. After the articles are dry,
+they take them to their houses to iron. They starch every article, even
+to sheets and pillow-slips. Their mode of ironing is entirely different
+from anything I ever before saw. They have a copper vessel, shaped like
+a sauce-pan, and large enough to hold about two quarts of coal. The
+bottom of this vessel is very thick, and highly polished. They fill it
+with burning coal; then take hold of the handle, and shove it back and
+forth over the articles.
+
+They have a dish of water standing beside them, to which they put their
+mouths, and draw up such a quantity of the water, that their cheeks are
+inflated to their utmost capacity. All the while they are shoving this
+vessel back and forth, they are blowing the water out of their mouths,
+which falls like spray upon the garment, and renders it of an equal
+dampness. They iron very smoothly, and the clothes have a beautiful
+polish. For ironing dresses, they have differently shaped sauce-pans.
+They wear out the clothes very much beating them so; and it is almost
+dangerous to stand in the vicinity of their washing resorts, the
+shirt-buttons fly so like hail-stones.
+
+There is a place, a little out from San Francisco, called Washerwoman’s
+Bay, where the Chinamen take all the clothes from the city to wash. I
+once took a walk out there; and, before I came in sight of the bay, I
+heard the noise occasioned by the clothes being thrashed so
+unmercifully. While I stood listening, not well assured of the cause of
+that peculiar noise, a gentleman appeared, coming in the direction from
+whence the sounds proceeded. I asked him what that noise was. Said he,
+“You are in close proximity to Washerwoman’s Bay; and I would advise you
+to go no farther, if you value your life; for the shirt-buttons are
+flying so thick, and with such velocity, it is really dangerous to go
+too near.”
+
+A short time before I left Marysville, the city was visited by another
+conflagration, which came very near destroying the Tremont Hotel. It
+occurred between ten and eleven o’clock, one Sunday. The fire originated
+in the square directly opposite the hotel; and, what wind there was
+being fair to bring it directly to the house, the greatest consternation
+prevailed. The ladies were all dressed to attend church. They commenced
+packing their things, and throwing them out the doors and windows. The
+proprietor ordered every woollen blanket in the house to be produced,
+wet thoroughly, and then nailed them all over that part of the house
+most exposed to the flames. One part of the building had a flat roof,
+upon which barrels of water were kept standing, also a number of pails.
+This roof was covered with people, passing and throwing water to prevent
+ignition.
+
+While this was going on outside, the people were rushing in, and
+removing beds and furniture. In their haste to remove large pieces, they
+tore down partitions, and otherwise injured the house; breaking out
+windows, sash and all, to eject some piece of furniture. Individuals who
+had been boarding in the house, and had not deposited their money in the
+safe, ran to their trunks, took it out, and gave it to me for safe
+keeping. I had my pockets so filled with gold and gold dust, it was
+really burthensome to move about. The most valuable things were removed
+out on the plains, and I stood guard over them; for they required strict
+watching, there were so many standing round, ready to take anything they
+could lay their hands upon. Several times the roof of the hotel was on
+fire; but, by the strenuous exertions of the people, it was
+extinguished. The flames were darting over and around it, yet the
+building was preserved, at the risk, almost, of their own lives. The
+proprietor’s face was scorched quite badly, as he was ever in the van;
+and where the most danger was, there he was sure to be seen. The
+building was saved; but what a looking house to return to! Every part
+ran with mud and water; the partitions were demolished, and windows
+broken; all the blankets which belonged upon the beds, wet and dirty on
+the outside of the house. But they soon dried; and that night, by ten
+o’clock, there were beds ready to accommodate a hundred persons. How we
+all worked! I never recollect being so tired, before or since, as I was
+that night. When I left Marysville, the old hotel was standing in all
+its pristine beauty. It had withstood all the fires which had visited
+Marysville during the space of three years; but I had only been at home
+three months, when tidings reached me that it was burned to the ground.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+
+In the spring of 1854, I bade adieu to Marysville, and started for San
+Francisco, preparatory to leaving for the Atlantic States. Three years
+previously, I had entered Marysville, when it was a little town, built
+mostly of canvas. Distinctly did I recollect my feelings at that time.
+All those bright hopes and buoyant anticipations--how had they been
+realized? Alas! as are too many of the frail hopes of earth, they had
+been blasted and blighted in the bud. Now I left it a large city,
+containing ten thousand inhabitants. Blocks of brick, fire-proof
+buildings had been reared; churches also, whose spires seemed pointing
+to that better land; and school-houses, whose doors were thrown open to
+receive hundreds of happy children who had emigrated with their parents
+to this inland city. And I left it now, a sadder and a wiser woman; for
+there I had drunk deep draughts of sorrow, and had learned, by bitter
+experience, the fallacy of placing implicit confidence in earthly
+objects.
+
+I was borne down those magnificent streams for the last time; yet every
+object is distinctly daguerreotyped in my mind as I saw it then. Yes! I
+bade all those scenes a final adieu; and would that I could have bade
+farewell to heart-troubles also. But how tenaciously they will gather
+around the fountain of memory, ever ready to spring to the surface, at
+the mention of some name, or half-forgotten word either of kindness or
+reproof! It was a bright May day, the last I passed in San Francisco. I
+met there several of the tried, firm friends of other days; and
+certainly I needed their support and protection then, if ever. Varying,
+conflicting emotions crowded so thick and fast upon the tablets of the
+brain, and so gained the ascendency over the power of self-control, that
+it was impossible for me to support my trembling frame without
+assistance, as I walked down the densely crowded wharf to get on board
+the steamer that was to convey me from scenes of suffering to my
+childhood’s happy home.
+
+That day, three steamers left that wharf, within an hour of each other,
+for the Atlantic States,--the “Uncle Sam,” the “Panama,” and the
+“Cortez.” I went on board the “Uncle Sam.” She was the last to leave,
+and was crowded with passengers: she had on board about eight hundred
+people.
+
+When the gun was fired,--the signal for departure,--as the echo
+reverberated over the waters, I fancied it to be one unanimous farewell
+emanating from the breasts of all on board,--a farewell to the sunny
+vales and towering mountains, to the gold-studded placers and majestic
+streams, the deep ravines and rocky cañons, of beloved California.
+
+What different emotions swelled the bosoms of those persons who stood
+gazing, perhaps for the last time, on that great emporium of the West!
+Many perhaps, then on board, like myself, had threaded its sandy streets
+when in its state of infancy; had viewed the scene from Telegraph Hill,
+when nought but canvas shanties dotted the surface of those valleys,
+surrounded by numerous sand-hills, which had since been levelled to make
+room for elegant blocks of granite buildings, which reared their stately
+proportions, the admiration of thousands, and an honor to the energetic
+and enterprising projectors.
+
+Some were returning, from a residence in that city and country, to their
+Eastern homes, blessed with an abundance of the shining metal which had
+lured them to its shores, and perhaps entirely destitute of all those
+principles of virtue and honesty that ever shed a brilliant lustre over
+the human mind, and give to the humble, indigent, and sorrow-stricken, a
+passport to a happy home above.
+
+The possession of wealth does not necessarily pervert the human heart;
+and yet how often do we see the possessor utterly regardless of the
+feelings of the worthy poor! Wealth too often takes the precedence of
+intellect; and many times we have seen the gifted mind struggling
+through years of poverty, uncheered by even an encouraging word from
+the rich, and finally sink in obscurity into an early grave.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+After passing out at the Golden Gate, all three of the steamers were
+visible, each freighted with a rich cargo of human beings, and cleaving
+for themselves a pathway through the blue waters. The “Uncle Sam” and
+“Panama” were bound direct to Panama; the “Cortez” to San Juan.
+
+The first night out on board a crowded steamer! Who that has experienced
+it can _ever_ forget the confusion, the sea-sickness, the
+dissatisfaction reigning among room-mates, the squalling of parrots, the
+crying of babies, and all sorts of annoyances incident to the occasion?
+
+For a person like myself, who was not sea-sick, and had no babies to
+worry about, and had only to enact the part of a silent spectator, the
+Babel-like confusion which reigned triumphant only served to divert my
+mind from my own sad thoughts, and I began to study the characters of my
+room-mates, through the science of physiognomy.
+
+In our state-room, which opened upon the main deck, were three berths
+and a sofa. My ticket called for the sofa, which was a nice, soft,
+velvet one, and far preferable to a berth. My room-mates were an elderly
+lady, and her married daughter, who had a babe eight months old. Then
+there was an adopted daughter, about sixteen years of age, and a noisy
+parrot. This elderly lady also had a son on board,--a great, over-grown
+boy, who had taken a second-cabin passage, with the idea of lodging in
+the room with his mother.
+
+The back of the sofa could be lifted up, so as to form a sort of shelf
+over the seat. This shelf, directly over the person who was lying upon
+the sofa, would be decidedly disagreeable and uncomfortable. The mother
+planned for that great boy to sleep upon this shelf, directly over me.
+To this I, of course, objected, knowing that he had a berth provided for
+him in the second cabin. Upon my objecting, the mother became determined
+that he _should_ sleep there. I then appealed to the young man, asking
+him if he thought it would be very agreeable to lodge in a little
+state-room, with three ladies, a baby, and a parrot. He acknowledged it
+would not, and refused to comply with his mother’s commands. Therefore,
+I got rid of him; which by no means ingratiated me into favor with the
+mother, who was very petulant indeed (owing to sea-sickness, I presume).
+But, after she ascertained that I would not be imposed upon, (if I were
+little,) she became quite affable, and lamented frequently that our
+tickets did not call for one and the same room on the Atlantic side.
+
+The married daughter was a very lady-like, genteel sort of a person,
+totally dissimilar from her mother, and rather a victim to her (the
+mother’s) dictatorial propensities. The adopted daughter was one of
+those good-natured, immovable sort of persons, always pleasant, yet
+doing about as she pleased, although receiving a severe reprimand every
+five minutes in the day from the old lady. The baby was a little
+darling, inheriting his mother’s gentle disposition. The parrot was not
+a whit more quiet than its mistress. As soon as day began to break, he
+would begin to scream, after this fashion: “Come to breakfast;” “Six
+o’clock;” “Hot coffee;” “Mother! mother!” and such like expressions. If
+it was amusing at first, it soon became very annoying. There was one
+parrot on board so exceedingly profane and annoying, that its life was
+several times threatened by the passengers who roomed in close proximity
+to it. The woman to whom it belonged valued it above price. It could
+speak the English and Spanish languages quite _fluently_. It used to sit
+nights outside the woman’s room. One morning, she missed its usual
+chatter, went upon deck, and it was nowhere to be found. Then what a
+time! Every one was ignorant as to its whereabouts; but a close observer
+might have detected a roguish twinkle lurking about the eyes of the mate
+of the ship, as he sympathized with the lady in her bereavement.
+Finally, the parrot was discovered, made fast to the mast-head of the
+ship. It was so frightened, it did not resume its usual chatter that
+day.
+
+After we had been at sea a few days, the weather, which had been
+agreeably cool, changed to oppressive heat. The air in those little
+state-rooms was so confined and unhealthy, it behooved those who were
+able, to rise early in the morning, and go upon deck to inhale the balmy
+air. But, then, it was rather unpleasant to be hunted about as we were
+by the sailors, who were washing down the decks. We would perch
+ourselves upon something; and then, just as we were congratulating one
+another upon securing a nice seat, swash would come the water in
+torrents, compelling us to run for another seat, which would only afford
+us a similar temporary lodgment. If we escaped without getting our feet
+soaking wet, and our clothes somewhat draggled, we accounted ourselves
+fortunate in the extreme. After the expiration of a week, how the new
+faces began to appear! The decks began to get quite crowded. Some of
+them looked as if they had not been enjoying themselves very well while
+confined to their state-rooms. I had a great deal of sympathy for those
+afflicted with that disagreeable nausea; yet I often received kind
+wishes, to this effect: “How I do wish you could be sick, just for one
+hour! You would not look so smiling, if you felt as badly as I do.” And
+yet I was forced to smile, when looking at their wo-begone countenances.
+
+There were two or three female cabin passengers very sick with fever;
+and, oh, how they suffered, confined in a close state-room, with a
+raging fever consuming their very vitals!
+
+One of the greatest sufferers was a lady who had been brought on board
+on a bed. She was dying of consumption. She was sick at home, and her
+physician had recommended a voyage to California. Thinking she might
+receive some benefit from a residence in that salubrious climate, her
+husband had taken her there. She had not remained there long, before she
+felt convinced that she must die. Then she begged--oh, how
+earnestly!--to be taken home to see her darling babes once more. If she
+could be spared to clasp their little forms in one fond embrace, she
+could die happy. Her doom was sealed. Every day the hectic spot deepened
+upon that ethereal face; the racking cough increased in hollowness of
+sound; the fluctuating pulse grew fainter. She was fast hastening to
+“that bourne from whence no traveller returns.”
+
+The morning sun rose fair, but it shone upon a death-stamped
+countenance--upon loving lips forever silent--upon the cold hand which
+gave no returning pressure. She had passed away, with the names of her
+darlings upon her lips.
+
+As the sun was sinking into the western waters, the steamer’s course was
+stayed. The body of the devoted wife and loving mother was borne upon
+deck, covered by the American flag. Near by stood the bereaved husband,
+whose heart seemed wrung with the keenest sorrow. The stillness of death
+reigned on board that crowded steamer. In calm, serene accents, a
+minister of Christ breathed forth an earnest, heart-felt prayer; and the
+remains were launched into the bosom of the restless ocean. A splash,
+and all was over. The waves which had parted to receive that form of
+clay continued their ceaseless motion, and, by their ceaseless music,
+seemed to be chanting a requiem over the mother’s grave, far, far down,
+among the coral dells and pearly caves of old ocean’s unfathomed depths!
+
+If the spirits of departed friends are conversant with our spirits, if
+they are indeed ministering angels to those whom they loved while in the
+flesh, the midnight slumbers of those motherless babes that night were
+blessed and sanctified by the seraphic presence of the beatified mother.
+In their infant dreams, it is the knowledge of her presence which causes
+those radiant smiles to flit across their fair, innocent faces.
+
+Dear children! Many a tear of sympathy was dropped at the thought of
+their uncertain future, as the revolving wheels of the steamer carried
+us farther and farther from their mother’s grave, which they could never
+look upon!
+
+In a little while, all was gayety and mirth, bustle and confusion,
+singing and dancing, on board that floating structure. This being my
+first voyage after the eventful fiery one, my feelings were constantly
+agitated, thinking it possible a recurrence of those former scenes might
+be enacted. There were some on board who were acquainted with the
+history of my voyage out to California; and they had repeated the story
+to their friends, until it had gained quite an extensive circulation
+among the ship’s company.
+
+One night, while seated in the door of my state-room, I was very much
+amused at the remarks passed between two of the sailors, who were laying
+down hose upon the deck, as was the usual custom, as a precaution
+against fire. Says one, “Dick, what are you laying that extra hose for?”
+“Why,” said he, “didn’t you know there is a woman on board who never
+went to sea but what the ship she was on board of burnt before reaching
+her destination?”--“There isn’t, though.”--“Yes, there is; and I haven’t
+the least idea the Uncle Sam will ever reach Panama.”--“Have you seen
+her? How does she look?”--“I don’t exactly know which one it is; but
+they say she looks just like any other woman.” Thus the conversation
+continued for some time, to my great amusement. But the spell was
+broken; the startling cry of “Fire!” was not heard; and no event of
+importance occurred, by which the nerves of the most sensitive could be
+shocked.
+
+We had two more burials at sea before reaching Panama. They were two
+firemen, who dropped dead while at their posts of duty, during the
+excessively hot weather.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+
+After twelve days and some hours’ sail from San Francisco, the old,
+walled city of Panama rose to view. The steamer’s gun was fired; she
+dropped her anchor; and a fleet of boats and bungoes were seen
+approaching. They neared and surrounded the ship. Most or all of them
+were manned by swarthy-visaged, half-naked Carthaginians, and a mongrel
+race of natives, whose appearance and gestures were equally as
+repulsive.
+
+Such a perfect Babel as that steamer’s deck presented! Some running to
+and fro, looking for baggage, some bargaining and bantering with the
+boatmen, boatmen fighting with one another for a berth next the
+gangways, ladies screaming at the top of their voices, children bawling
+in unison, and parrots joining in the chorus! Curses and oaths, singing
+and shouting, filled up the intervals of this hurly-burly scene. I stood
+agape with astonishment at witnessing the haste and recklessness with
+which they rushed, helter-skelter, down the gangways, and tumbled (some
+of them headlong) into the boats. More than one individual I saw
+floundering in the water; and carpet-bags and valises were floating
+about quite merrily.
+
+The hideous-looking boatmen kept up a continual jargon and fighting with
+one another; and perhaps, just as some person was going to step into a
+boat, some native would give it a shove away, and the person, pressed
+hard from behind, if not remarkably nimble, would get a ducking.
+
+I was determined to wait until the last, rather than go with such a
+rush; and I did wait, until the coast was clear. Then our party, which
+consisted of four or five ladies and gentlemen, secured seats in a boat,
+and bade good bye to the Uncle Sam. We had gone but a short distance
+from the ship, when we heard the report of a gun booming over the water.
+The steamer Panama, which left in company with us, had arrived. She had
+about five hundred passengers on board; and, with the eight hundred who
+had just left the Uncle Sam, the hotels in Panama would be likely to be
+rather crowded. It behooved us to hasten, in order to secure a place on
+the floor, if nowhere else.
+
+As we neared the shore, the water was full of natives, who waded off
+almost up to their necks, surrounded the boat, and arrested its
+progress. The boatmen are agreed with the natives on the shore to manage
+thus, in order to secure as many pieces of money as possible. No
+entreaties or threats could induce the boatmen to budge one inch nearer
+to the shore. There was no alternative but to place ourselves upon the
+backs of these natives, and (as the expression is) ride post-back to the
+shore. Before placing ourselves in this rather unladylike position,
+there was much screaming, and laughing, and crying, and scolding; but it
+all terminated in one general post-back ride to the shore. The natives
+being so submerged, one could not judge well of their muscular
+developments; and some of the more corpulent ladies were afraid to trust
+their immense proportions on the back of a slender native, for fear of
+being dropped. This accident did happen to some of them; and it was ever
+accompanied with much laughing and joking at the sufferer’s expense.
+Finally, we were all landed,--some in one shape, and some in another.
+More than a dozen natives surrounded me, all holding their hands for a
+bit, (ten cents,) each claiming the honor of having carried me on his
+back to the shore. They all bore such a striking resemblance to one
+another, and having on no garments by which they could be distinguished,
+I was sorely troubled to know to whom I was indebted for my novel ride.
+It was settled, however, to their satisfaction.
+
+The natives took our trunks upon their backs, (not us, this time,) and
+our party started for the Louisiana Hotel. When we arrived there, it was
+literally jammed full; but, knowing we should fare no better by going
+elsewhere, we crowded ourselves in with the multitude.
+
+This was in the afternoon, and our appetites were considerably sharpened
+by the rather scantily furnished tables which had been spread on board
+the steamer for one or two days previous to our arrival.
+
+Six or seven of us ladies were shown to a room on the second floor,
+which overlooked the court-yard in the centre of the range of buildings.
+Each story was surrounded by a balcony. Our room had no windows, but two
+very extensive doors, which opened like folding-doors on to the balcony.
+The partitions all through the house only ran two thirds of the height
+to the ceiling; so there was plenty of ventilation and plenty of noise
+circulating through the house. There was not a particle of paint or
+paper in the whole building. The walls and partitions were of rough
+boards, and these were all whitewashed. The great vaulted passages
+leading through the house, and the great wide, worn staircases,
+presented a cheerless and gloomy aspect. In our room were six or seven
+cots, over which were thrown two sheets and a straw pillow to each cot.
+This constituted the entire stock of furniture, if we except two old
+rickety chairs and our trunks.
+
+From the balcony opposite our door we could watch the proceedings in the
+cook-room; and it was amusing to watch those half-naked natives knock
+over the fowl, of which there were numbers in the back yard, about
+half-divest them of their feathers, hurry them into a kettle, and by the
+time they were well heated through, run with them to the tables, if they
+were not met on the way there by the half-famished passengers, who would
+snatch the half-cooked viands from their hands, and beat a hasty retreat
+to their rooms.
+
+In vain we waited to be summoned to supper. Finally, one of our party
+made a descent upon the cooks, and procured the wherewith to appease, in
+a measure, our hunger.
+
+The Uncle Sam’s passengers had intended to get mules, and start that
+night from Panama to cross the isthmus; and this could have been
+accomplished, had not the natives been so shrewd. When they saw the
+steamer Panama coming in directly after the Uncle Sam, they rightly
+conjectured, that, if they kept their mules out of sight until all from
+both steamers were landed, there would be such a demand for mules they
+could get any price they saw fit to ask. Therefore, when mules were
+called for by those of the passengers who reached the shore first, there
+were none to be found. No entreaty or persuasion could induce them to
+bring one forward; but we were told there would be plenty on the morrow.
+That afternoon a party of us took a stroll around the city, visited the
+oldest and largest cathedral in the place, walked upon the battlements
+which surround this ancient and once flourishing city, but now, in many
+places, wearing the aspect of decay and ruin. Some portions of the wall
+were falling into ruins; but in some places it was sufficiently wide for
+two carriages to drive abreast; but there were no vehicles there then.
+There were the sentry-boxes, built at short intervals along the
+battlements, which, in days gone by, had sheltered the wearied sentinel
+during his nightly patrol.
+
+I saw in some places the ruins of old churches and convents. Some
+portions of the high stone walls would be standing, out of the sides of
+which were growing bushes and small trees. The sight of those trees
+growing out of high stone walls at once attracted my attention. For how
+many ages must those old walls have been exposed to burning suns and
+deluging rains, to have thus afforded sustenance for those scraggy
+shrubs and trees! The stones were all moss-grown, and rank vines were
+running in great profusion over the decaying ruins. An air of silent
+desertion seemed to pervade those ruinous remains, which gave rise to
+melancholy reflections. They forcibly reminded one of the mutability of
+all things earthly. Just as the setting sun was casting its red beams
+upon the high and narrow stained-glass windows of the rich old
+cathedral, we were wandering under its vaulted roof, feasting our
+astonished senses with a sight of the massive gold and silver ornaments
+which were displayed in such rich profusion upon the walls. What an air
+of mystery and gloom seemed to surround us! How our voices echoed and
+reverberated in the far-off niches and recesses of this gloomy-looking
+edifice. Several times I was startled by the appearance of some old
+monk, with his cowl closely drawn, who would start from some niche in
+the wall, where he had remained unperceived, and, without uttering a
+word, hold out a silver plate, whereupon you were expected to deposit a
+piece of money. When once more in the open air, I experienced a sense
+of freedom from the feelings of mystery and gloom, which unavoidably
+cluster around one while traversing those silent cathedrals.
+
+We then repaired to the vestibule of a convent, not with the expectation
+of gaining admittance, however. There was a wooden frame which turned in
+the wall, after the manner of those yard-gates which turn upon a pivot,
+and on which stood a pitcher of water and a glass. After drinking, a
+person is expected to leave a piece of money beside the pitcher. Every
+few moments, this frame is turned by an unseen hand; but, when the
+pitcher and glass appear again, the money, if there had been any beside
+it, had disappeared.
+
+It being a moonlight evening, several of us ladies, accompanied by one
+gentleman, started to prosecute our walk through some other parts of the
+city. We passed through several streets, or, as they appeared to me,
+lanes; but they looked _so_ gloomy! And, then, those old ruins seemed
+such grand lurking-places for the revengeful Spaniard, with his
+murderous stiletto, that we all frightened ourselves by such imaginings,
+and ran back again to the hotel as quickly as possible.
+
+What a night was that at Panama! So many returning Californians, and
+some such wild ones, too! They seemed determined to make night hideous
+with their singing and shouting. There was little sleep for any one in
+Panama that night.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+
+As soon as daylight dawned, the natives began to swarm in the streets
+with their mules, opposite to the hotels, and the people commenced
+bargaining for the use of them.
+
+The railroad was completed from Aspinwall to within eighteen miles of
+Panama. Eighteen miles! When we came to traverse the route, it seemed
+thirty, at least. As the rains had commenced, we were advised to travel
+the Cruces route, as the Gorgorna route would be impassable on account
+of the mud.
+
+Some of the passengers who had before traversed the Cruces route advised
+all the ladies to dispense with the side-saddle altogether, as it would
+be utterly impossible for them to retain their seats, unless upon the
+gentleman’s Spanish saddle. Most of us were provided with India-rubber
+boots, and pants, and a large sombrero, as a protection for our heads.
+
+The natives asked twenty dollars for the use of a good, plump-looking
+mule, to take us to Obispo, at which place was the terminus of the
+railroad; but one could get a miserable-looking animal, which, in all
+probability, would die on the way, and leave you to prosecute the
+remainder of your journey on foot, for twelve and fifteen dollars. For
+my mule I paid twenty; and, many times during the journey, I had
+occasion to congratulate myself for having secured such a gentle, kind,
+serviceable little animal. I really became so attached to him during the
+journey, that I parted from him with regret. Generally, the natives from
+whom you hire your mules, and pay for them in advance, trot along with
+the company, and are ready, upon your arrival, to take the animal.
+
+There was great frolicking and laughing with the ladies while fixing
+away on the mules. I shall never forget _my_ feelings when I found
+myself seated astride my mule, arrayed in boots and pants, with my feet
+firmly planted in the stirrups, ready for any emergency.
+
+About five o’clock in the morning, I left the hotel, in company with
+thirty or more of the passengers. They all travelled in parties of
+thirty and forty together. Most of the children were carried across by
+the natives. They were seated astride their necks, with their little
+hands clasped across the natives’ foreheads; while they have hold of the
+children’s legs in front. Those who have infants generally get some
+gentleman to take them in front of him on the saddle.
+
+One of our passengers (a widow lady, with two little children) was very
+sick indeed when she arrived at Panama. She was advised to remain there
+for the present; but, although she felt convinced that her days on earth
+were numbered, she preferred to go on with the company. She was placed
+in a hammock: each of her little children (one twelve months, and the
+other three years) were carried on the backs of natives, who walked by
+her side.
+
+When only six miles out from Panama, she breathed her last-drawn sigh.
+They stopped, dug a grave for the mother by the lonely way-side, and
+deposited her remains therein. It was a sad spectacle. Well was it for
+those little orphans that their extreme youth prevented them from
+realizing the extent of their affliction.
+
+A kind-hearted woman--although the roughest-looking one in the
+company--volunteered to take charge of the babes until they arrived in
+New York. Upon arriving at Obispo, a collection of two hundred dollars
+was taken for the children. Often, since, I have thought of that lonely
+grave by the way-side, with no stone, or even board, to mark the spot,
+and upon which no tear of affection will ever fall. She buried her
+husband in San Francisco, three weeks previous to her departure for the
+Atlantic States. She was getting home by charity; and, being a delicate,
+feeble woman, could not endure the fatigue of the journey. Deep-seated
+sorrow had sapped the fountains of life, and she died among strangers,
+far from friends and home.
+
+Two others of our number died, and were buried on the way. One was a
+gentleman whose mule had died, and he was footing it along, when he
+suddenly fell, and expired. Probably his death was caused by disease of
+the heart. One steerage passenger, who was walking across, died from
+over-heating himself.
+
+For the distance of six miles, our route lay over a good, paved road,
+and we galloped along, exceedingly delighted with the scenery, our
+mules, and the good road. “If this is crossing the Isthmus,” said one,
+“I shall never believe again the horrid accounts I have heard
+respecting the trip;” but, before the termination of the journey, she
+thought the one-half had not been told. Soon the road became more
+rugged, and we began to enter the rocky defiles, ascend the steep
+mountain passes, and descend into dark, rocky ravines. The sun, which
+had been shining with tropical fervency, now withdrew his rays, and the
+rain descended in torrents. The deafening thunder seemed to shake those
+old mountains to their very base. In an instant we were soaking wet;
+for, oh, how it did pour! In a short time it was over, and the sun
+shining bright and hot as ever. Two such showers as this we encountered
+during that mule-back trip.
+
+The scenery through the mountains almost defies description. There are
+defiles through the solid rock, so narrow as to admit only one mule at a
+time; while, on each side, the rocks rise to the height of fifteen,
+twenty, and, in some places, thirty feet. These rocks are surmounted by
+tall trees, whose dense foliage, blending overhead, completely excludes
+the sight of the blue sky above.
+
+Sometimes these narrow passes are so descending, as to render it almost
+impossible to retain your seat upon the mule. In some places there are
+regular stepping-stones, into each of which little little holes have
+been worn by the mules’ feet, that so many times, and oft, have
+traversed those dangerous passes. I could compare the descent to nought
+but placing a mule at the top of a flight of stairs, getting upon his
+back, and riding down.
+
+Those mules are so careful and sure-footed, and so well accustomed to
+travelling through those frightful places, that there is no necessity
+whatever of guiding them. You have only to place the bridle over the
+pommel of the saddle, (those Spanish saddles have a high pommel in
+front,) and look out for yourself. In descending, we were obliged to
+lean far back on the animal’s back, and grasp the crupper with all our
+might. It seemed as if our safety depended solely upon the strength of
+the crupper. How I cried sometimes, with fright! but then I was careful
+not to let any one see me, and generally took the time for such
+ebullition of feeling when it was raining hard, and the water would
+unavoidably be coursing down my face.
+
+How careful those mules were! That day I learned to love them. In going
+down those rocky flights, they would hold their heads low down, then put
+one foot over and plant it firmly in one of those little holes, then the
+other in the same way, then bring their hind feet on to the same shelf,
+then go down on to another, and so on to the bottom. Then perhaps
+commence, and make an ascent equally as toilsome. They have nothing to
+eat or drink on the way, and never once attempt to nip the herbage that
+grows, in some places, by the way-side.
+
+Once, as there were about fifty mules all in a line, ascending one of
+those steep mountain passes, the one in advance, which was laden with
+three large trunks, made a misstep, and fell. These animals are so
+sure-footed that they never stumble except when giving out, and never
+fall, unless to die. This one was very weak, and failing fast, but might
+have succeeded in reaching the top of this dangerous pass, had not the
+trunks swayed on one side, and hit the rocks, thereby causing him to
+fall. When passing up those rocky flights, it is utterly impossible for
+a mule to step backwards, off one of those shelves, without falling, and
+as utterly impossible to turn the mule about, on account of the extreme
+narrowness of the way. The fallen mule, in making desperate attempts to
+rise with those heavy trunks lashed to him, as a natural consequence
+kept falling back, thereby crowding hard upon those behind him. I was
+seated on the fifth mule in the rear of the fallen one. Such a shouting
+and bawling as there was with the natives, who were trying to
+disencumber the poor beast of the trunks, and, at the same, prevent him
+from throwing himself any farther back, as, by so doing, he would
+endanger the lives of those behind him.
+
+How firmly my little mule planted his feet upon the shelf he was on,
+rounded himself into as small a compass as possible, and awaited his
+fate. He seemed to comprehend the whole; and, by his looks, I fancied he
+said, as a token of assurance to me, “I will die here rather than take
+one step backwards.” Finally they disengaged the trunks from the animal,
+and hoisted them up on to the banks above. As the mule was evidently
+dying, they cut his throat, and lifted him up also. This scene detained
+us more than an hour; for those natives seemed to make no progress
+towards extricating the mule from his painful position, but were running
+to and fro, bawling at the top of their voices, hunting ropes, and
+ordering one another. The passengers who were far behind were calling
+loudly to know what was the cause of the detention. Some were cursing
+the tardy natives; the women were crying with fear; and, if a
+daguerreotype view could have been taken of the scene, I think it would
+have had a tendency to deter some from ever crossing the Isthmus of
+Darien on mule-back.
+
+Upon entering one of those defiles, the natives who are on foot (and
+there are generally quite a number with each party) go in advance, and
+keep up a loud shouting, to prevent any party which may be coming in an
+opposite direction from entering, as it would be death to one or other
+of the parties’ mules, should they meet. We occasionally passed over the
+carcasses of mules in these places, which had been killed to afford
+others a passage. We were so fearful that the natives would not make
+noise enough, that we joined in the shouting, and felt truly grateful
+when we emerged from the bowels of the earth.
+
+The day previous to our arrival at Panama, the steamer Illinois arrived
+at Aspinwall, with a load of passengers from New York for California. In
+crossing, we all met at different points on the way.
+
+Sometimes, upon arriving at a defile, we would hear a loud shouting
+within; then we would halt, rein our mules out on each side of the way,
+and await their egress. Some, upon emerging from the defile, looked very
+much jaded and fatigued; others were laughing and joking. How earnestly
+we eyed them, as they appeared one after another, thinking perhaps we
+might see some friend or acquaintance from home.
+
+Upon thus meeting, each party would accost the other with all the
+freedom and familiarity of old acquaintances; and some of the remarks
+which were passed were really laughable. Upon the back of one mule were
+seated two persons, a young man and an elderly woman. At sight of them,
+some of the gentlemen of our party hurrahed, which was answered by the
+woman with a wave of her calash, (she wore one of those large
+old-fashioned green ones,) and a “Hurrah for California!” “That is
+right,” said one, addressing the young man, “take your mother with you;
+if we had, we might have been spared much suffering.” And thus they
+joked. Some who had been rather unsuccessful advised the emigrants to
+turn back, even then. “Why?” said they, “is there not plenty of gold in
+California?” “Yes, there is gold enough; but you may not be lucky enough
+to get any of it.”
+
+They gave us no encouragement as to the route over which they had
+passed. All said, “Expect to find it as bad and worse than you can
+possibly conceive of.” This was disheartening, I assure you.
+
+Sometimes the trail would be quite passable, and then one could enjoy
+the scenery. The tropical foliage is beautiful; and among the leaves
+and branches were hopping birds of beautiful plumage, rendering the
+woods vocal with their sweetest songs. Monkeys and parrots we saw in
+abundance.
+
+On the way we passed several hotels,--nothing more than canvas shanties,
+with large signs attached, bearing the appellations of “Astor House,”
+“St. Charles Hotel,” “Revere House,” etc. They were kept by Americans,
+and at them one could procure plenty of fruit and liquors of all kinds;
+but the wise ones were very abstemious, as a great deal of the sickness
+on the isthmus is engendered by eating and drinking to excess in a
+climate so excessively warm.
+
+Oh, how tired we grew! and yet, at every hotel, the distance seemed to
+increase rather than decrease.
+
+Upon first entering the forests on the isthmus, my attention was
+directed to what looked like ropes hanging from the trees. I soon found
+them to be vines that had run up on the trees, out on the branches, and
+were suspended therefrom in every direction. They were leafless, and the
+color of a rope.
+
+We crossed the Chagres River once only before reaching Obispo. How dark
+and deep it looked, as we were going down a steep declivity directly
+into it! We were assured it was quite shallow, and not dangerous to
+ford; and that, if we allowed our mules to take their own course, we
+should be carried safely across.
+
+One young lady from Marysville was very much frightened, and kept
+constantly asserting that she should be drowned, she knew. Upon reaching
+the brink of the river, she suddenly reined in her mule, just as he was
+going to step in. He became offended at such treatment, and shook her
+off plump into the river. Such a screaming! You would have thought a
+dozen women were in the river. She was brought out, and placed again
+upon her mule, with instructions how to proceed, and was carried safely
+over. The water was not up to our stirrups, in the deepest place; but it
+looked black and deep, down in that dark ravine. I breathed more freely
+when safely across.
+
+Once we came to a little slough, over which was built a narrow bridge of
+poles. I happened to be ahead at that place, and called to know whether
+I should cross the bridge, or follow the trail through the slough, which
+looked very miry. They told me to let the mule act his own pleasure. He
+first tried the strength of the bridge by placing his foot upon it, and
+feeling all about, as far as he could reach; then he turned, and went
+down the trail to the slough, and there reconnoitred in the same way;
+then he turned to the bridge again. I concluded he thought that the
+safest way of crossing. Upon reaching it, he stopped, made one leap, and
+cleared it at a bound, and came very near clearing himself of me, too. I
+was wholly unprepared for such an emergency, and came very near losing
+my equilibrium. All the other mules came leaping over except one, which,
+I expect, was so far gone, he could not jump. He stepped upon the
+bridge: it broke beneath his weight, and he fell. The lady was thrown
+from his back; and, altogether, there was quite a scene.
+
+After this, we met two gentlemen on mule-back, and of them we inquired
+the distance to Obispo. The reply from one was, “I should think it was a
+dozen miles, and the very worst road you ever travelled.”--“Oh, no,”
+said the other, “not so bad as that. This is the gentleman’s first trip
+to California. When he has crossed the Isthmus two or three times, he
+will not get so quickly discouraged. It is about two miles to Obispo;
+and rather a rough road, to be sure, but not worse than you have
+passed, I presume.” How those cheering words revived my drooping
+spirits! I felt (and every lady of the company, I presume, felt the
+same) as if I could not retain my seat upon my mule but a little longer.
+Every part of my body ached so hard, I could not tell where the pain was
+most severe. If I had been placed upon the rack, and every joint drawn
+asunder, I could not have been much lamer or sorer than I then was.
+
+It was two o’clock in the afternoon, and we had been riding since five
+in the morning, without once leaving our mules, over a road which, for
+its rugged, uneven, and dangerous passes, beggars description.
+
+Suddenly we heard the shrill whistle of a steam engine. Our lagging
+spirits revived. We toiled on, and reached the top of an eminence which
+overlooked the beautiful valley of Obispo; and there, far below us, we
+beheld a scene calculated to inspire the most despondent with renewed
+hope and courage. There was the terminus of the railroad; and on the
+track were twelve long cars, headed by an engine, which was puffing and
+blowing, and sending forth whistle after whistle, long, loud, and clear,
+its echoes awakening the hitherto unbroken solitude of the primeval
+forests of New Granada.
+
+Those of the company who had sufficient life and strength remaining to
+make any demonstration of joy, did so. As we descended the mountain, we
+were perceived, and welcomed by firing of cannon and loud cheering.
+
+Several hundred United States troops had arrived there, _en route_ for
+California. They were all out on the plaza. Four or five large American
+flags were floating upon the breeze from the roofs of large temporary
+hotels which had been erected along the line of the railroad; and, as
+fast as the road progressed, they were transported along to the
+terminus. Here I saw a railroad for the first time since leaving
+Baltimore, a lapse of four years.
+
+When we arrived in the valley, and halted in front of the depot, I
+suppose our forlorn, jaded appearance excited the sympathy of those
+there assembled, for many stepped forward to assist us in dismounting.
+They lifted us from our saddles, and placed us, not upon our feet,--for
+not one of the ladies in the company could stand,--but flat upon the
+ground in the mud.
+
+One lady in particular--who rode nearly the whole way, holding her babe
+on the saddle in front of her--fainted, the moment they lifted her from
+her mule, and it was a long time before she recovered her consciousness.
+
+Upon leaving Panama, she had consigned it to the care of a gentleman,
+who was going to take it across the Isthmus on the saddle with himself;
+but whose mule gave out, and fell with him. In endeavoring to save the
+infant from injury, he received several severe contusions on his back
+and head, from the effects of which he did not recover during the
+journey to New York. This so frightened the mother, that she took the
+babe herself; and, in consequence of thus exerting her strength to take
+care of herself and child,--when those who had no child to attend to
+could scarcely retain their seats,--she came very near dying.
+
+After remaining a few moments in the mud, I made an attempt to walk. I
+would go a few steps, and then fall; pick myself up again, take a few
+more steps, and then tumble the other way. I attributed my inability to
+walk partly to my India-rubber boots slipping on the muddy ground, and
+partly to the benumbed and stiffened state of my limbs. While I was thus
+staggering about in the vain endeavor to reach a hotel, a gentleman came
+along, picked me up, and carried me to the desired haven.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+
+Cars were in readiness to take us immediately to Aspinwall, where the
+steamer North Star was waiting to convey us to New York. Many of the
+gentlemen took passage in them; but the ladies were too exhausted to
+think of proceeding farther that day; and, as the specie and baggage had
+not all arrived, there was no danger of the North Star sailing until the
+next night.
+
+So we all retired, and did not rise again until the next morning. Our
+accommodations at Obispo were similar to those at Panama--great rush,
+nothing to eat, and not much to lie upon.
+
+In the morning, as we were well-nigh famished, a gentleman of the party
+invited a friend of mine and myself to breakfast with him, as he had
+been to the trouble of purchasing something, and hiring it cooked
+expressly for himself. The breakfast consisted of broiled chicken, fried
+plantains, and eggs. That meal cost five dollars, and it was the only
+one I had while at Obispo. That forenoon, our baggage arrived, and,
+while out on the plaza, it was exposed to one of the hardest showers I
+ever witnessed. Wo to the contents of those trunks which were not
+water-proof!
+
+I must not leave the beautiful valley of Obispo without descanting upon
+its loveliness. It was inclosed by lofty hills, whose sides and summits
+were clothed with the most beautiful tropical foliage. There grew the
+tall palm-tree, laden with its milky fruit; the luscious pine-apple;
+also bananas, and plantains in abundance.
+
+There were, perhaps, twenty native bamboo-huts, thatched with the woven
+fibre of the palm-leaf, scattered about the valley; around the doors of
+which, and under the leafy shade of the lime and palmetto, lounged the
+indolent natives, of both sexes. And why should they exert themselves,
+when nature has so abundantly supplied their wants?
+
+They appeared perfectly happy and contented in their ignorance. No
+soaring aspirations for fame caused them to pass sleepless nights and
+anxious days. They were slaves to no goddess of fashion; and, if they
+had any pride, I cannot conceive to what point it tended, unless it was
+an overweening desire to excel in roasting monkeys. Oh, this was a sunny
+spot! I can see it, even now, in my mind’s eye, as it appeared when
+viewed from the top of that mountain height, after a day of toilsome
+travel. That old adage, “It is always the darkest just before day,” was
+never more fully illustrated than when, after such a toilsome, dangerous
+day’s ride as we had accomplished, that lovely, pleasant valley burst
+upon our view. That last two miles of mule-back travel I shall never
+forget. Whether it surpassed all other portions of the route in steep
+and dangerous passes, or whether we were so completely worn out with
+fatigue, that everything appeared more dark and gloomy than it really
+was, I cannot say; but that old maxim kept ringing in my ears, and
+cheering me on--“It is always the darkest just before day.” And,
+certainly, I could not compare that sunshiny valley, at the terminus of
+our route, to other than the brightest day that ever followed the
+darkest night.
+
+About four o’clock in the afternoon, we seated ourselves in the cars
+bound to Aspinwall. Those cars on the Isthmus had cane seats and backs,
+and were, therefore, not so comfortable for the sick, sore, and lame, as
+if they had been otherwise.
+
+We were borne over the track quite slowly, as the many short curves
+which the road made prevented their going with greater speed. The
+railroad seemed to follow the bed of the Chagres River. We crossed it
+several times. The scenery was grand and sublime, commingled with the
+beautiful. On one side of the track, perhaps, a towering mountain raised
+its rocky sides far above us; while, on the opposite side, the eye might
+wander far, far down a steep precipice, causing a shudder to run through
+the frame at the thought of an accident occurring at such a spot.
+
+How frightened the parrots, paroquets, and monkeys, must have been, when
+the iron horse first startled those leafy solitudes with his fiery
+snort! Never again will profound stillness reign triumphant along the
+course of the Chagres River. Those feathered songsters, of brilliant
+plumage, lured to its vine-clad banks by the gentle ripple of its tiny
+waves, will fly, startled from their leafy coverts, at the approach of
+the iron steed.
+
+By and by, the town of Aspinwall appeared to view. The country all about
+looked so sunken and marshy, as to impress the beholder at once with an
+idea of its unhealthy location. It was quite a place, however, and at
+that time seemed to be all alive with people. We passed from the cars
+directly on board the steamer, as it was near night, and we wished to
+get possession of our rooms before sailing. I ascertained the steamer
+would not get away before midnight, as it was an almost endless task to
+select the baggage, and get it on board.
+
+Being very weary, I concluded to lie down, and get a nap in the first
+part of the evening, in order to be awake, and be on deck, when we left
+Aspinwall.
+
+When next I opened my eyes, it was broad daylight. Aspinwall was far out
+of sight, and we on the broad Atlantic.
+
+Amid all the bustle and confusion preparatory to sailing, even firing of
+guns, I had slept soundly. One lady, thinking I would like to see
+Aspinwall by lamp-light, endeavored to awaken me; said she spoke my name
+several times, and shook my arm, but still I slept on; and she left me
+to the enjoyment of my dreams.
+
+Upon going on deck, I met again all the Uncle Sam’s passengers, and saw
+many strangers who had come on board at Aspinwall. On the North Star I
+had only two room-mates, and was minus baby and parrot.
+
+Now that I was on the Atlantic, I felt that the distance between home
+and myself would be speedily annihilated. Nothing occurred worthy of
+note during the passage; and, on the ninth day after leaving Aspinwall,
+we made Sandy Hook. It is impossible to describe my sensations upon
+nearing my native land, after an absence of four years. I was returning
+_alone_, too, to the home of my youth. At times, my feelings were
+overpowering.
+
+When the health officer boarded us, I saw a sight that would have drawn
+pity from the breast of the most obdurate. It appeared that at Aspinwall
+there had been brought on board, and placed in the steerage, three sick
+individuals, the remnant of a family of eight persons, who had left New
+York for California a short time previous. On their arrival at the
+Isthmus, the father and mother had sickened, and died. The six children
+started to cross to Panama. They were robbed of all their money on the
+way; and, ere they arrived at Panama, the two eldest brothers and one
+sister died, leaving a young brother and two sisters, penniless and
+sick. In this condition they were found by some good Samaritan, brought
+back to Aspinwall, and placed on board the North Star. They were very
+sick indeed--in fact, but just alive; but their sickness was not of an
+infectious nature.
+
+While preparations were being made to lower away a boat in which to take
+them to the hospital, they were brought aft, and placed upon deck. One
+look at those poor, sick, emaciated children of sorrow would so stamp
+itself upon the pages of memory, that long afterwards their ghastly
+countenances, with their sunken, hollow eyes, ashen lips, and shrivelled
+forms, would present themselves in your day-dreams as well as your
+night.
+
+The eldest girl was about sixteen; the other might be fourteen, and the
+boy twelve. Not two months since, they had left New York, a healthy,
+happy family. Now the remaining three were brought back to die in the
+hospital. The eldest girl died in the boat while being transported to
+the hospital. The other two, I have no doubt, quickly followed her, as
+they looked more like tenants of the tomb than aught else.
+
+I must not forget to mention the fate of those two little orphans whose
+mother was buried on the Isthmus. The kind-hearted lady who took them in
+charge had faithfully fulfilled her mission. The children were well and
+happy, in their guileless innocence. A collection was taken for them on
+board the North Star, to the amount of three hundred dollars. This,
+added to the two hundred previously taken, was delivered up to the lady
+who had them in charge; and she was going with them to Cincinnati, at
+which place a sister of the deceased mother resided, and to whom the
+dying mother had bequeathed them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+
+We neared the city of New York. Soon its domes, turrets, and spires,
+became more distinct. We were fast nearing home. Home! How the mention
+of that word sent a thrill to my heart! It is scarcely possible to
+describe my feelings at that time; exuberant joy, mingled with sorrowful
+reminiscences which came crowding thick and fast over the ocean of
+memory, overshadowing all the bright hopes and sunny feelings of the
+heart.
+
+We reached the wharf late in the afternoon. It is needless to describe
+the bustle incident to the arrival of an ocean steamer, crowded with
+passengers. It is enough to say, that after being jammed, and jostled,
+and crushed, to your infinite satisfaction, you find yourself on board a
+hack, bound to one of the many hotels which intersperse the city.
+
+The next day, I was too sick to start for home, completely prostrated by
+excitement, I suppose. The next day, I left New York. The following
+morning, I neared my native town. The station was reached; I left the
+cars. I had purposely kept my arrival secret, the better to take them by
+surprise.
+
+In returning, after a long absence, to the home of our youth, we often
+find ourselves disappointed. A part of the brightness is almost sure to
+have passed away. Our eyes are changed, even if the things we look upon
+remain the same. The persons we have loved too are sure to have altered,
+and rarely for the better; for, if they be still on the bright side of
+life, the rose-bud is generally more beautiful than the rose; and, if
+they be on the autumnal side of the hill, we shall have to mark many a
+leaf that has fallen, many a flower that has faded away.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+
+Before laying aside my pen, I am constrained to say a word regarding the
+moral tone of society as it existed in California as early as the years
+1851 and 1852.
+
+Recollect, kind reader, that the state of society in California at the
+present day is as unlike what it was at the time alluded to above as are
+the golden tints of the eastern sky ere the glorious orb of day bursts
+upon the view, and the dark, portentous gloom which overspreads the
+horizon, presaging a coming storm.
+
+To what cause could be attributed this lack of morality; which seemed to
+pervade the greater portion of the community at that early day, and
+which necessarily dimmed the lustre of the brightest gem in God’s
+magnificent footstool? Was it the atmospheric influence which surrounded
+them? or were the evil propensities of their natures more forcibly
+displayed for the very reason that they felt themselves beyond the reach
+of all those conventional forms of society which, in our puritanical
+country, serve to restrain, more or less, the inherent evil of our
+natures?
+
+Travellers who have wandered in the sunny regions of a tropical clime,
+and have mingled with the inhabitants, can scarcely fail to perceive the
+effect of that balmy, blissful atmosphere upon the human passions. Their
+quick, impulsive natures, warm and generous hearts, overflowing with
+love and affection; the bewitching naiveté of manner so characteristic
+of the females has often proved a theme for the poet and historian.
+
+California, although not situated within the tropics, many of its sunny
+vales possess all the characteristics of soil and climate, and afford
+to one all the delights pertaining to a residence in those genial
+climes, and, at the time to which I refer, many of those captivating
+females had found a home within its borders.
+
+It is oftentimes the case that persons naturally pure, and possessed of
+good principles, by constant intercourse with those whose nationalities
+are less stringent with regard to morality, are almost unconsciously, as
+it were, led to adopt customs, and imbibe sentiments that at first were
+quite revolting to their natures.
+
+Ever willing to place the best construction upon another’s conduct, I
+would much rather infer that all of the evil which displays itself is
+the result of a vacillating mind, unable to withstand temptation, rather
+than of an innate desire to set at defiance the laws of God and man.
+
+Persons from all classes were to be found in California,--the moral and
+the immoral, the tempter and the tempted. Well may it call a blush to
+the cheek of our own sex, when I assert that the immoral predominated,
+as far as the female portion of the community were concerned. I have
+been an unwilling observer of transactions, which, had they been related
+to me, would have shaken my opinion somewhat respecting the veracity of
+the narrator. Think of a town in California where the females numbered
+more than two hundred, and from that number the pure, high-minded, and
+virtuous could not have selected more than three or four with whom they
+could have associated, and have derived a sweet pleasure in the
+interchange of all those ennobling sentiments which shed such a halo of
+loveliness around fair woman’s shrine.
+
+Now, it is characteristic of my humble self to illustrate every subject
+by relating some event which has come under my personal observation, and
+which will, I think, serve to interest.
+
+Among the first who emigrated from the city of Boston to the western El
+Dorado were a mother and daughter.
+
+The daughter, yet scarcely fifteen years of age, gave promise of extreme
+loveliness. Carefully had that mother guarded her, lest a too early
+acquaintance with the chilling realities of life should rob her young
+and guileless heart of a portion of its pristine purity and undimmed
+faith.
+
+Of that mother’s early history but little was known; yet it was often
+whispered by the gossiping ones that the remembrance of her own sad,
+youthful experience had given that shade of melancholy, that tinge of
+sadness, which at times shaded so deeply her yet fair brow. Whatever had
+been her bitter trials and disappointments, it was evident to a casual
+observer that the whole wealth of her affections, the deep, unfathomable
+love of a mother’s heart were centred on the well-being of her only
+child.
+
+The better to acquire a competency, wherewith to surround the loved one
+with all those appliances of comfort so desirable to a young and
+beautiful girl, the mother determined to seek a home within the
+precincts of the “Golden State.” Better, far better, had she immured
+herself and child in the catacombs of Rome than thus to have launched
+their frail bark upon the golden wave of a California sea.
+
+The most ambitious votary of admiration there at that time must have
+been satisfied, and even satiated, with the amount of homage, adulation,
+and heartless flattery, which was poured into their too willing ears.
+One can realize the danger likely to be incurred by placing a young,
+lovely, and attractive female in a country where virtue was regarded by
+the mass only as a name, and while she was yet too young to discriminate
+between the respectful homage of sensible gentlemen and the
+soul-sickening, hypocritical, despicable flatteries which often flow so
+smoothly from under the moustache of the soulless, “vanity-puffed,
+shallow-brained apology” for a man. One saw many of those specimens in a
+day’s walk through the city of San Francisco, and also in her sister
+cities.
+
+Nightly they would convene in those gilded halls of iniquity, and pursue
+their soul-killing avocation. To be sure, they nightly won their
+thousands, little caring for the mental agony of their victims, whom
+they had robbed of the last ounce of dust, which they had been months,
+perhaps, accumulating, and which they had intended to have transmitted
+to their families in their far distant homes. Wait patiently, wife and
+little ones,--wait patiently for the father and husband to learn the
+best and most effective lesson ever taught by that inexorable
+schoolmaster, experience! If his first lesson is severe indeed, as a
+general thing, he is not over anxious to risk a second recital, and the
+absent wife may hope again to welcome his loved image to the now
+sorrowful home.
+
+These professed gamblers are never content with ruining those of their
+own sex, but are ever on the alert and the watch for victims from among
+the youthful, unsophisticated, and beautiful of the opposite sex; and
+Lillie Lee was far too captivating to remain long in obscurity.
+
+Notwithstanding the vigilance of her mother, she had formed an
+acquaintance with one of the most enticing of the gambling brotherhood.
+For weeks and months he had been gradually gaining a strong foothold
+upon her affections, by practising all those insidious arts which too
+often successfully entrap the uninitiated. He knew he was beloved, and,
+knowing that, felt secure of his victim.
+
+The affection bestowed upon that dissolute gamester was deserving a
+better object. Upon the promise of a speedy marriage, she left her
+mother’s roof; and together they fled to one of the interior towns.
+
+Who can graphically describe that mother’s anguish, upon learning the
+flight of her darling? Within a few hours of their departure, the
+bereaved, heart-broken, and nearly frantic woman was on the track of the
+seducer and his victim. She arrived about midnight at the town where the
+fugitives had taken up their abode. After travelling nearly thirty-six
+hours without once tasting food, or taking any rest, this grief-stricken
+woman procured a suitable disguise, and, arming herself with a “Colt’s
+revolver,” started on her mission of death.
+
+Grief had rendered her frantic, and, in the desperation of the moment,
+she had made a vow, and registered it on the tablet of a broken heart,
+that she would avenge her daughter’s ruin by taking the life of her
+seducer; forgetting, in the frenzy of excitement, that she was assuming
+a power never intended to be usurped by the sinful children of earth.
+
+She threaded her lonely way through the nearly deserted streets of that
+inland city, never wavering in her murderous intentions, until she
+paused at the entrance of one of those brilliantly lighted
+gambling-saloons which spread their contaminating influence on all
+around. She entered, expecting and hoping to find the object of pursuit
+engaged in his nefarious vocation. She saw, however, only the usual
+appurtenances of these houses of sin. Elegantly attired women, within
+whose natures long since had expired the last flickering spark of
+feminine modesty, were seated, dealing cards at a game of Faro or
+Lansquenet, and, by their winning smile and enticing manner, inducing
+hundreds of men to stake their all upon their tables. The stricken
+mother passed through the crowd, but could nowhere see the object of her
+search.
+
+In this manner she visited all the houses of like reputation, with
+similar success. By some means or other, she obtained a clue to their
+whereabouts, reached the door of their room, and, in a disguised voice,
+demanded admittance. After a long delay, the door was opened, and the
+despoiled and despoiler met face to face. Quicker than thought, the
+revolver was levelled at his breast, when a piercing shriek broke on the
+stillness of the night, and the words, “Mother! oh, mother! in Heaven’s
+name, desist!” burst, in tones of concentrated anguish, from the
+affrighted girl. In an instant she had thrown herself between the
+parties, and was imploring her mother to spare the life of him she
+loved.
+
+What power had changed that mother’s anger to grief too deep for
+utterance? Was it the vivid recollection of a similar scene, enacted
+long, long ago, in which she had participated? Did the form of her kind
+and sainted mother rise before her? Yes; she beheld again, in fancy,
+that calm, sad face, the memory of which had often disturbed her
+midnight slumbers. These harrowing recollections of the
+would-be-forgotten past were quite too overpowering. It was long before
+she was restored to consciousness; and not until repeatedly assured by
+that deeply dyed villain, that he would make ample restitution by
+marrying her daughter, could she be persuaded to return to her hotel.
+The earnest pleadings of the mother could not induce the infatuated girl
+to separate from her lover. The mother returned to San Francisco.
+
+Months flew by, scarcely heeded by the happy child. The long-deferred
+marriage proved no source of grief to her. She _loved_, and was happy.
+She had so much confidence in his honor, that she felt certain he would
+marry her. Honor! what a desecration of the word, when used in
+connection with such a fiend in human shape!
+
+Perhaps he would have married her,--for he seemed happy only when in her
+presence,--if he had not been indissolubly bound to another. Lillie had
+yet to learn that stunning truth. It must be so; yet how he trembled,
+and shrank from making a disclosure, which, he well knew, would chill
+the very life-blood in her veins!
+
+The wife of his youth, tired of living alone in her distant home, had
+formed the determination to join her husband, and follow his fortunes in
+the “Golden Empire.” Her decision was irrevocable. Even the time was
+appointed when he should meet her at the bay. He felt, at times, like
+flying with Lillie to parts unknown; for, depraved as he was, she, by
+her artless, winning ways, and rich wealth of affection, had stirred
+the long-dormant fountain of love in his bosom. Yes, now was coming his
+hour of retribution; for he loved Lillie, and must leave her to the fate
+that almost always attends the deeply erring. Time was pressing; he must
+reveal all. It was done; and for hours she sat like one petrified. She
+could only articulate, “Mother! mother! receive again your heart-broken
+child!”
+
+They left, that day, for San Francisco,--he, to meet his injured,
+unloved wife; she, to be received in the arms of her wronged, but still
+loving mother. Under the influence of a powerful narcotic, which had
+been administered at her own option, she was conveyed to her mother’s
+house; and there we will leave her for the present.
+
+Behold how majestically that mammoth ocean steamer cuts her way through
+the sparkling waters of the bay! Now she gracefully turns her prow
+towards one of the piers, that is crowded with people. What varied
+emotions fill the bosoms of those there assembled! Some are eagerly,
+anxiously, expecting the loved wife, from whom they have been separated,
+perhaps for years; others, dreading, fearing, to meet those whom they
+have ceased to love, and wish they may never behold again. There were
+many who had formed connections there that were hard to sever; and
+among the last named we find Lillie’s lover. On the steamer’s deck stood
+his wife, all eagerness to greet her husband after a two years’
+separation.
+
+The meeting once over, he felt he could sustain his part no longer.
+Pitiable wife! Henceforth she must be content with a bountiful supply of
+pocket money. She may revel in luxury, be surrounded with splendor, have
+every wish gratified but the one yearning desire to possess her
+husband’s love. That was denied to her. She felt the estrangement
+keenly. What a miserable life was hers! Night after night, as her aching
+head pressed her lonely pillow, she prayed that death might end her
+sufferings.
+
+Early morn, perhaps, would bring her husband home. Perchance his only
+word of salutation would be, “Well, wife, last night I won two, three,
+or four thousand dollars,” just as the case might be; for he was one of
+those successful gamblers who are well versed in all the tricks used to
+defraud the unwary. Yes, his coffers were heaped high with his
+ill-gotten treasures! What cared the wife for riches, if she must ever
+be treated with that cold, studied politeness, always so freezing to the
+loving recipient?
+
+Daily I was an unwilling witness to the inward struggles, the pent-up
+grief, of the proud woman, for we both resided under one roof. She had
+learned all, everything. Whispered rumors were borne to her ears; and
+from some source she had learned where was bestowed the affection which
+of right belonged to her.
+
+In the interim, what had become of Lillie? Had she repented of her sin,
+and chosen purity’s white robe, with which to deck her faultless figure?
+Ah, no! She did not possess moral courage sufficient to brave the
+heartless sarcasm, the keen reproach, of that class who are ever ready
+to judge their fellow-mortals, and who ever forget that divine precept
+which teaches us that “to err is human; to forgive, divine.” And then,
+after taking the first step in wickedness, it is much easier to follow
+on in the downward track, than it is to turn, and tread the flowery path
+of purity, which leads to the mansion of happiness.
+
+After the lapse of a few months, she returned to the inland city; “for,”
+she remarked, “it is some pleasure to breathe the same atmosphere, to
+traverse the same streets, and frequent the same places of resort as the
+dearly loved.” She rushed recklessly into dissipation. Her extreme
+beauty, and her adventurous, fearless course of conduct, won for her a
+widely extended reputation.
+
+One day she would appear in splendid Turkish costume, which admirably
+displayed her tiny little foot encased in richly embroidered satin
+slippers. Thus would she promenade the thronged thoroughfares of the
+city, the observed of all observers. Again she might be seen, superbly
+dressed after the fashion of that class of people denominated “fast
+men.” How gracefully she held the ribbons, and with what dexterity she
+managed her spirited horse, as she dashed madly on over the broad plains
+which surrounded the city. In the use of the cigarita she equalled, in
+point of fascination, the dark-eyed Spanish women.
+
+I have seen her mounted on a glossy, lithe-limbed race-horse,--one that
+had won for her many thousands on the course,--habited in a
+closely-fitting riding-dress of black velvet, ornamented with a hundred
+and fifty gold buttons, a hat from which depended magnificent sable
+plumes, and, over her face, a short white lace veil of the richest
+texture, so gossamer-like, one could almost see the fire of passion
+flashing from the depths of her dark, lustrous eyes. She took all
+captive. Gold and diamonds were showered upon her. Her ringing, musical
+laugh seemed the signal at which trouble, care, and sorrow fled away and
+hid themselves. Lillie was not soulless, or heartless either; but yet
+the hilarity of despair seemed to have fast possession of her. Many a
+tear has fallen at the thought of her sad future.
+
+The unloved wife, finding that all efforts to reclaim her husband’s love
+proved futile, decided to return to the home of her youth. She took
+passage from San Francisco in a steamer upon which Lillie’s mother had
+also secured her passage; for, despairing of ever reclaiming her
+daughter, she was hastening to leave a country where so much existed to
+remind her of her fallen child. Thus were these two sorrowing females
+thrown together on ship-board; yet neither by word or look did they
+recognize each other. The mother still cherished the same revengeful
+feelings towards the seducer; and the proud wife rejected the idea of
+allowing, even for a moment, the mother of one who unconsciously had
+been instrumental in causing the sky of her existence to be shrouded in
+dark, impenetrable gloom, to suspect that she was suffering from
+unrequited affection.
+
+The husband was happy again with Lillie, until about two years after his
+wife’s departure, when he was unceremoniously hurried into the presence
+of his Maker. He met his death by the glittering knife of one whom he
+had defrauded of his last ounce of dust. The one to whom he had done the
+greatest injury, the most irreparable wrong, wept bitter tears of
+anguish over his unhonored grave.
+
+There were many beautiful, depraved women in California who, previous to
+leaving their homes in the Atlantic States, had lived virtuous lives;
+many who had been the light and the life of the home circle--who had,
+indeed, been an ornament to the society in which they moved. Some of
+them were desirous of acquiring riches; and, hearing such glowing
+accounts of fortunes so speedily amassed in California, and also being
+possessed of an adventurous spirit, started, as they termed it, to seek
+their fortunes. Some went with their husbands, some with their fathers,
+some with their brothers, and too many went alone.
+
+To such as had felt and known all the inconvenience arising from a
+limited purse, and thought that if they were blessed with riches, or a
+competency even, their happiness would be complete,--to such, I assert,
+it was a dangerous country to go to, unless their principles were as
+firm as the rocks of their native hills.
+
+One beautiful young girl, in company with her brother, left a pleasant
+home, situated in the heart of the “Old Granite State,” and together
+they reached the El Dorado of the West. He repaired to the mines, after
+having procured a lucrative situation for his sister as governess in a
+wealthy Spanish family. Previous to leaving the States, she had been a
+music teacher.
+
+After awhile, she became tired of her rather monotonous life, and
+conceived the idea of going to one of the interior cities, to see if she
+could find something better to do. An offer was made of forty dollars an
+evening, if she would sit at a Lansquenet table, and deal the cards. At
+first she shrank with horror at the idea of thus appearing in a
+gambling-house. Then she thought of her widowed mother at home, deprived
+of all the comforts and luxuries so acceptable to the middle-aged and
+feeble. Said she, “What an amount of money I can earn in this way,
+wherewith to surround mother with every comfort, and yet not compromise
+my honor in the least!” Mistaken girl! No woman could long remain
+virtuous in one of those gilded saloons of vice, surrounded, as she must
+necessarily be, by men who looked upon the opposite sex very much in the
+same light as does the fishhawk, which soars above the surface of some
+clear lake, ever ready to pounce upon, and bear off in its talons, any
+one of the shining piscatory tribe that, more venturesome than another,
+approaches too near to the boundaries of its native element.
+
+The night approached on which Jennie was to make her debût in the
+sporting world. With a palpitating heart, she repaired, in company with
+her employer, to one of the most magnificent gambling establishments in
+the city. Upon entering, the dazzling brilliancy of the surrounding
+appurtenances, the delicious strains of magical music which burst upon
+her ear, were perfectly enchanting; but, as she raised her eyes to the
+walls, (from which depended numerous pictures, all calculated to excite
+the grosser passions of man, and which were inclosed in magnificently
+gilded frames,) she drank in at a glance her position, and fainted. She
+was taken to her hotel, and left, for that night, to her own gloomy
+reflections.
+
+Oh, Jennie, if you had but listened to, and been guided by, the
+spirit-influence of your Guardian Angel, who is ever near and ready,
+unless obstinately resisted, to soothe the agitated, wavering heart,
+and, by sweet, whispered breathings of divine counsel, is able to lead
+the troubled soul to drink of the sweet waters of eternal happiness!
+
+Next morning came the tempter; and, by increasing in amount the already
+liberal sum proffered for her services, he gained from her a promise to
+make a second attempt the ensuing evening. She went, and this time
+succeeded in reaching the seat provided for her; but her head swam, her
+step faltered; and well it might, for the licentious gaze of hundreds
+rested admiringly upon her superb figure. Her transcendently beautiful
+countenance was suffused with the blush of maidenly modesty; and that,
+having been an unseen and unheard-of feature in such a place, was all
+the more refreshing for its scarcity.
+
+For some time she retained all her original purity; and then the angels
+in heaven might have wept, when they saw the tempter secure of his
+victim. She had launched her skiff upon the sea of immorality, freighted
+with that priceless treasure, virtue; and, in exchange for which, it had
+returned to her laden with gold, wherewith she could supply her dearly
+loved mother’s every want. Thus she lived for months; not quite so
+daring as Lillie, yet drinking sufficiently deep at the Lethean fount to
+hush all the whisperings of conscience. She finally terminated her
+profitable career of vice by marrying a wealthy, popular man in one of
+the mountain towns,--one with whom she had lived on terms of the
+greatest intimacy for months before their marriage.
+
+She now moves in good society in one of our Eastern cities, surrounded
+with all the appliances of wealth, in possession of the love of a
+popular and respected husband. Who, among her numerous friends, would
+stop to make inquiries of her past life? And, even if her fashionable
+acquaintances knew of her past follies, I am rather inclined to think
+they would “wink” at them rather than lose a _wealthy friend_. Such was
+life as I saw it in California.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+
+Now, kind friends, a few farewell words, and my story closes. On my ride
+from the depot home, I passed the old, familiar trees; yet, thought I,
+they have certainly grown smaller. And the brook, too--why, it was
+almost dried up; and the hills, how they had diminished in size! I
+insisted that some of them had been dug away.
+
+There, before me, was the old homestead, the spot where my heart first
+learned attachment; where my mind had first opened its eyes; where a
+mother had tenderly nurtured me, from earliest infancy.
+
+How sensibly the shadows of retrospection came creeping over my heart,
+as I first drew in sight of that endeared place! The roofs and windows
+looked familiar to my eye; the old trees waved their arms as of yore. I
+reached the door, raised the latch, and was locked in the embrace of
+father, mother, brothers. But the sister whom I had left there a
+light-hearted girl, had gone to gladden and cheer another’s home. She
+had pressed one darling babe to her bosom for a short space; then it had
+winged its way to blissful realms above, and left the mother desolate.
+
+Now, you have accompanied me on my eventful voyage to California, around
+Cape Horn, on board burning ships; have sympathized with me in sorrow,
+joyed with me in pleasure; crossed the Isthmus with me, astride a mule;
+in fact, followed me through “dangers seen and unseen;” and, finally,
+reached with me the “old homestead.” And, if you have been repaid for
+the amount of time and patience expended, I am heartily glad of it; and,
+if you have not, I hope I shall ever remain in “blissful ignorance” of
+the loss. Good-by!
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75851 ***
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+<html lang="en">
+  <head>
+<link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
+
+<meta charset="utf-8">
+<title>
+  The Project Gutenberg eBook of Incidents
+on land and water, by Mrs. D. B. Bates.
+</title>
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+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75851 ***</div>
+<hr class="full">
+
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+<a href="images/cover.jpg">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="325" height="550" alt=""></a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_001.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_001.jpg" width="550" height="338" alt="NONANTUM."></a>
+<br>
+<span class="caption">NONANTUM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h1>INCIDENTS ON LAND AND WATER,<br><br>
+<small><small>OR</small></small><br><br>
+Four Years on the Pacific Coast.</h1>
+
+<p class="c">BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE<br><br><br>
+BURNING OF THE SHIPS NONANTUM, HUMAYOON AND FANCHON,<br>
+TOGETHER WITH MANY STARTLING AND INTERESTING<br>
+ADVENTURES ON SEA AND LAND.<br><br><br>
+BY<br><br>
+MRS. D. B. BATES.<br><br><br>
+EIGHTH EDITION.<br><br><br>
+BOSTON.<br>
+PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR.<br>
+1860.<br><br><br>
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by<br>
+MRS. D. B. BATES,<br>
+in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts
+<br><br><br><br>
+<b>TO MY MOTHER</b>,<br>
+<br>
+WHOSE CHERISHED MEMORY,<br>
+<br>
+WHILE WANDERING FAR FROM YOUTHFUL SCENES<br>
+<br>
+HAS OFTEN PROVED A TALISMAN IN THE HOUR OF NEED;<br>
+<br>
+THE RECOLLECTION OF WHOSE DISINTERESTED LOVE,<br>
+<br>
+HAS GIVEN ME COURAGE TO MEET AND BRAVE SEVEREST TRIALS;<br>
+<br>
+THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED<br>
+<br>
+<b>BY THE AUTHOR</b>.<br>
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<h2><a id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Kind Reader</span>! This simple unembellished history of portions of my life’s
+experience requires no preface. Its deficiencies, I trust, will save it
+from unjust criticisms; if justly deserved, may they be in all lenity
+bestowed, modified by sympathy, and kindness for the humble historian.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<table>
+<tr><td>&#160;</td><td>Page.</td></tr>
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">My Childhood’s Home,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">The Departure,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_12">12</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Fire on board Ship Nonantum at Sea,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">The Falkland Islands,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">A South Sea Rookery,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Departure from the Falklands, and second fire off Cape Horn,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Third fire at sea. Burning of the Ship Fanchon on the Coast of Peru,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_57">57</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">The Desolate Beach,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_68">68</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Arrival and Residence at Payta,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Arrival at Panama and visit Taboga,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Arrival at San Francisco. Extensive Conflagration. Its Consequences, etc., etc.,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Leave San Francisco for Marysville,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_111">111</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Situation and Climate of Marysville. Peep at the Country, Inhabitants, etc.,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_125">125</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Hotel Keeping and Life in a Canvas Shanty,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_137">137</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Description of an Indian Rancheria and its Occupants,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">A Conflagration. Hotel Keeping resumed. Marysville Inundated,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_156">156</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">A Journey up the Sacramento Valley. Descriptions of things seen and heard,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_163">163</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Trip to French Corral. Mountain Scenery. Mountain Ball, etc.,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_169">169</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Journey to Park’s Bar. Experience in Mining. Fatal results of Gambling,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_192">192</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Visit to Gen. Sutter’s residence. Description of the grounds. The Pleasant Surprise, or the Musical Miner. Good Fortune of a Lady in California. Emigrant Wagons. Belles of the Plain. Interesting and Ludicrous Incident. The English Gold Diggers. Loss of Life,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_205">205</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">The Orphan Child. Delights of Stage-Coaching in California.
+The Hen that laid the Golden Eggs,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Execution of a man in Marysville. The petty theft the results
+of bad Influence. Accident at the Mines. “Obstinate as a
+Mule.” Mysterious Disappearance of Dunbar. Cold Blooded
+Murder. Disinterested Benevolence,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_232">232</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Hardships of the Mountain Settlers during the winter of 1852.
+A Brother’s Experience,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_254">254</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Peculiarities of John Chinaman. Conflagration in Marysville,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Farewell to Marysville. Departure. Arrival at San Francisco. Leave San Francisco for Home,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_271">271</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Incidents of the passage. Burial at Sea,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_275">275</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Arrival at Panama. Description of Hotels. Walks about the city. The Battlement,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_283">283</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Crossing the Isthmus. Grave by the road-side. The beautiful Valley of Obispo. Take the cars for Aspinwall,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_291">291</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Embark for Home, on board the North Star. A distressed family,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_307">307</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Arrival at New York,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_314">314</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Incidents illustrative of Morals in California,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_315">315</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII</a></th></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="pdd">Conclusion,</td><td class="rt"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="cb">INCIDENTS ON LAND AND WATER.</p>
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> the town of Kingston, in the State of Massachusetts, not many miles
+distant from that ancient and time-honored bay whose waters years ago
+kissed the prow of the “May Flower” as she approached a sterile and
+inhospitable shore, is situated the home of my childhood.</p>
+
+<p>The dear old homestead, the scene of so many fond recollections, had
+descended from father to son for generations. The storms of many winters
+had beaten upon its roof; time had left its impress without, in the
+shape of moss-covered shingles; but within, all was youthful joy and
+gladness. Not a link in that family circle had been severed. In love and
+affection were we nurtured.</p>
+
+<p>Although years have intervened since those sunny days of childhood, how
+often, while sojourning in distant lands, would memory recall with
+un<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_12">{12}</a></span>dimmed freshness the gladsome spring-time of youth. Happy days! too
+speedily do they fly, leaving, often, nought but the recollection of
+them to cheer us in our toilsome march. Early in life, I was united to
+one whose home was on the deep. Then came the sad partings from loved
+friends, to follow for many consecutive years the fortunes of my husband
+by sea and land. There were sad departures and joyful returns.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> the 27th of July, 1850, I sailed from Baltimore in the ship
+<i>Nonantum</i>, of Boston, (Bates, master,) bound to San Francisco. In the
+ship’s hold was stowed one thousand and fifty tons of coal; the
+between-decks were filled with provisions for the steamers plying
+between Panama and the El Dorado of the West. The coal with which we
+were laden was taken from the Cumberland mines, brought directly to
+Baltimore in open iron cars, subject to frequent showers of rain on the
+way, and deposited in that condition in the ship.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_13">{13}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>With bright hopes and glowing anticipations we left our native land.
+Well was it that no prophetic visions presaged the future that awaited
+us. We were wholly unconscious at the time of the remarks uttered by the
+spectators assembled upon the wharf, to the effect that coal was a
+dangerous cargo to take upon so long a voyage.</p>
+
+<p>By the lessons taught by the bitter experiences of that memorable year,
+many shipmasters have duly profited. Now, they stow their coal in casks,
+or in small quantities, have it dry when placed on board, and give it
+sufficient ventilation.</p>
+
+<p>The ship’s crew consisted of the usual complement of sailors, first and
+second officers, carpenter, cook, and steward; also two boys, who
+particularly attracted my attention. They were pleasant little fellows,
+who, being possessed of a mania for the sea, had left their homes to
+seek their fortunes upon the treacherous deep. Many times during the
+voyage had they occasion to bless the captain’s wife for a bite of
+something good from the cabin table, slyly given to them, and in secret
+eaten.</p>
+
+<p>This was not my first voyage. To me the cabin of a wave-tossed vessel,
+and a trip across the deep green ocean, was never monotonous or
+disagreeable, never being afflicted with that unpleasant nausea<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_14">{14}</a></span> termed
+“sea-sickness,” so much to be dreaded, judging from the appearance and
+descriptions received. The separation from earth’s homes and loved
+hearts are all calculated to elevate the mind, and centre the soul’s
+best affections upon pure and holy objects. How often, hour after hour,
+have I sat gazing upon the boundless expanse of water, contrasting in my
+mind the utter insignificance of human power and skill, compared with
+the majesty of the Almighty Maker of the ocean and the land.</p>
+
+<p>Moonlight nights at sea are my especial delight. How I love to gaze upon
+the illimitable deep, and watch each ripple gleaming and sparkling in
+the broad and trackless pathway like myriads of diamonds beneath the
+effulgent beams of the glorious orb of night! Almost imperceptibly, a
+holy calm pervades my being, and absorbs all other faculties. With what
+reluctant feelings, on such evenings as these, would I resign my seat
+upon deck, even after the night was far spent.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Baltimore, my husband had purchased a beautiful
+Newfoundland dog, of the largest species; to which, on account of the
+remarkable sagacity he displayed, I became very much attached. In my
+daily promenade upon deck, he was ever by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_15">{15}</a></span> my side. Whenever a sail was
+discovered in the distance, he would place his huge fore-paws on the
+ship’s rail, and send his loud, hoarse bark reverberating far over the
+swelling wave.</p>
+
+<p>Then I had two goats on board to furnish milk, not being sailor enough
+to drink the strong coffee made on ship-board. They were very playful,
+and once a day were allowed the liberty of the deck, which they readily
+improved by racing and frolicking about, in which they were joined by
+Dash.</p>
+
+<p>In pleasant weather, when off the coast of Brazil, I have sat for hours
+on the ship’s rail fishing for albatross, one of the largest and most
+formidable of the South Sea birds, as they majestically sailed along in
+the wake of the ship, watching the bait (a piece of pork fastened to the
+hook, and a small bit of board attached to the line to float it,) so
+temptingly displayed. After swallowing it, and finding themselves
+captured, there was no struggling to free themselves, but, as you hauled
+in the line, they would sail gracefully along in all their native beauty
+and dignity. The assistance of the two boys was required in bringing
+them to the deck, where, after freeing them from the hook, (which, the
+boys always assured me, did not hurt them in the least,) they would
+survey the scene around them with a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_16">{16}</a></span> sort of contemptuous glance, as
+though they disdained their captors and the deception used to allure
+them from their native element. The goats, when freed from their
+inclosures, would advance towards them, rear themselves on their
+hind-legs, and shake their heads in defiance of the monster bird; while
+it, in turn, would snap its tremendous bill with such force, you could
+hear it ring from one part of the ship to the other; but they would
+never encounter one another except by threatening gestures. When we
+became satisfied with admiring our prisoner, two sailors would each
+grasp a wing, raise him to the side of the ship, give him a toss, and
+away he would soar; then light gracefully upon the water at a little
+distance, and view what I suppose he thought to be a huge monster which
+had held him in his grasp.</p>
+
+<p>Another amusement was taking a dish of crumbs, and, by throwing over a
+handful, call a flock of cape-pigeons to the ship’s side. Each one eager
+to secure his share, they would dive far down into the clear water to
+get those that were sinking. Sometimes, to deceive them, I would throw
+over a bone that would sink rapidly. Down they would all go after it out
+of sight; then appear again, chattering,&mdash;scolding, I called the
+incessant noise they kept<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_17">{17}</a></span> up. This bird resembles our tame pigeon, with
+the exception of being a little larger.</p>
+
+<p>Flocks of “Mother Carey’s chickens” were occasionally following in our
+wake. Those tiny little things, ever on the wing, often excited my
+sympathy. About this time, the faithful dog I had learned to love so
+well sickened, and daily grew worse. Every remedy we could devise was
+called into requisition, but availed nought. One night, after I had
+retired, he dragged himself to my berth, placed his nose close to my
+face, and whined and moaned piteously. I afterwards thought it prophetic
+of evil in the future. Upon making my appearance upon deck the next
+morning, there lay the noble animal dead. Poor old Dash! the remembrance
+of thee and thy many virtues will live long on memory’s leaf.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Days</span> and weeks passed on, until we were in the latitude of the Rio de la
+Plata. So mild and pleasant had been the weather, that I was half
+inclined<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_18">{18}</a></span> to believe this voyage indeed was to be an exception to all
+previous ones; although often, when expressing myself delighted with the
+continuance of such lovely weather, the exuberance of my feelings would
+be somewhat checked by repeated assurances from my husband that I should
+see it “rough enough” off Cape Horn to compensate for all previous
+calms.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly the aspect of affairs changed, and we encountered a terrific
+storm, the bare recollection of which almost makes me shudder. The
+ship’s cabin was a house upon deck; and, as the storm increased in
+violence, the angry waves dashing higher and higher as each successive
+blast lashed the mighty deep, fears were entertained that the house
+would be forcibly detached from the deck. Heavy shutters were fastened
+against the windows as a protection to the glass against the storm,
+thereby rendering the cabin dark as night. A lantern was kept burning
+through the day, as well as by night. Owing to the violent motion of the
+ship, I was compelled, for the most part of the time, to keep my berth,
+to prevent being dashed against the cabin walls. I very reluctantly
+consented to confine myself to my state-room, but not, however, until I
+had received some severe bumps. So vio<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_19">{19}</a></span>lent and sudden were those jerks,
+that, unless one was very much guarded, they would be thrown very
+unceremoniously from their seat.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, it was terrible to lie so many hours listening to the roaring of the
+storm without! I wished very much to get a glimpse of the ocean when
+lashed into such fury, but there was no aperture whereby I could gratify
+my curiosity. I had only to pray, and listen alone. My husband was
+constantly on deck, taking neither refreshment nor sleep. I wondered not
+at his anxiety, although I knew not then the imminent danger impending
+from fire as well as water; for, the second morning after the
+commencement of the storm, smoke had been discovered between decks. The
+alarming truth instantly flashed upon our minds. The gas that originated
+from the coal had generated fire. Orders were immediately given to get
+up provisions and water sufficient to last until we could be released
+from our awful situation. While thus engaged, several of the men were
+rendered senseless from the effects of the gas. They next proceeded to
+close the hatches, and caulked every seam tightly, in the hope of
+arresting the progress of the fire it was impossible to extinguish.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_20">{20}</a></span></p><p>Captain B&mdash;&mdash; shaped his course for the nearest land&mdash;the Falkland
+Islands, which were eight hundred miles distant. During this time, the
+severity of the gale was such, it compelled me to remain in the cabin;
+and for three days I remained in ignorance of our perilous situation.
+During this interval, the air in the cabin was ever impregnated with a
+strong odor of tar. This was accounted for to me in this light,&mdash;the
+cook was boiling tar, as they were obliged to make use of a great deal
+at such times. That, of course, looked very reasonable, and served the
+purpose of concealment from me of the fire. It is true the countenances
+of my husband and officers bore unmistakable traces of anxiety; but this
+I readily attributed to the violence of the gale, which threatened every
+moment to engulf us.</p>
+
+<p>I also noticed the steward caulking some of the seams in the pantry.
+Upon inquiry, he gave me to understand it was necessary to use this
+precaution, to prevent any liquids he should chance to spill from
+running down on the cargo,&mdash;a foolish excuse, to be sure; but, however,
+it proved effective. But, when the gas and smoke escaped through seams
+which were apparently water-tight, and made its appearance in the cabin,
+concealment was no longer possible.</p>
+
+<p>Upon learning the sad truth, for a time all forti<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_21">{21}</a></span>tude and self-control
+forsook me. I thought of my dear old home far away, in its quiet
+seclusion; of the loved ones wont to assemble there to talk and pray for
+the safety of the absent one. I felt I should never more behold them,
+and that they would ever remain in ignorance of our fate. After the
+first moments of despair, Hope again asserted her empire. Repinings, I
+reasoned, were useless. The Almighty hand which formed the channels of
+the deep had power, I knew, to preserve us, and guide us, amidst storm
+and darkness, to our homes and havens of rest. The greatest
+consternation prevailed among the crew. At times the gale would abate,
+only to be renewed with increased violence. We were soon obliged to
+vacate the cabin, which was filled to suffocation with gas; and, for
+five consecutive days and nights, I remained in a chair which was lashed
+to the deck. It was quite cold, and often I was drenched with the water
+and spray that would dash at short intervals across the deck. Never can
+I forget those dreary days of suffering that I sat gazing from the
+narrow deck upon the boundless expanse of tossing, foam-crested billows.
+As far as eye could reach, no friendly sail appeared to which we could
+look for safety; nothing was seen but the sweeping surge, as it came<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_22">{22}</a></span>
+roaring and dashing on, threatening to overwhelm us. In such an hour man
+learns of God, and witnesses proof of his grandeur and power in every
+dashing wave; he sees nature in one of its grandest aspects.</p>
+
+<p>If possible, the nights exceeded in anxiety the days; impenetrable
+darkness surrounded us, relieved only by sheets of white foam dashing
+over the bows, as the doomed ship madly plunged into the angry waters.
+When one sea more powerful than another would strike her, causing her to
+tremble in every timber, I would grasp my chair, shut my eyes, and think
+we were fast being engulfed in the sea. Oh, those nights of agony!
+Never, through all the vicissitudes of after life, will one thought, one
+feeling, then endured, fade from the volume of memory.</p>
+
+<p>Each day the ship was getting hotter; gas and smoke were escaping at
+every seam. We constantly feared an explosion, as the natural
+consequence of so much confined gas. What a solace to me, in those days
+of trial, was the trust, the implicit confidence, I felt in that mighty
+Guardian Power that is ever around and about us, and in whose protection
+we are forever safe!</p>
+
+<p>On the twelfth day after fire was first discovered, we made the Falkland
+Islands. As we approached<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_23">{23}</a></span> the Volunteer Rocks, which make off two miles
+from land, gloomy and forbidding as were their appearance, I hailed them
+as harbingers of safety. Truly it must have been the sunshine, the
+grateful happiness of the heart, which clothed those barren rocks with
+imaginary beauty&mdash;I had almost said reverence.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> entrance to the outer bay is called Port William. About twenty miles
+up this bay, an English colony is established. The entrance to Port
+William is designated by a tall flag-staff. At the time of our arrival,
+it was blowing a close-reefed-topsail breeze, directly down the bay;
+and, as night was approaching, the captain deemed it advisable to select
+the most sheltered situation at hand, and anchor until morning.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly, this colony was located up Berkley’s Sound, and called Port
+Louis. It has since been removed to its present site, and styled Port
+Stanley. The Falkland Islands are situated in the South At<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_24">{24}</a></span>lantic Ocean,
+where the mariner guides his course at night by the sacred constellation
+of the Southern Cross, and between the parallels of 51 deg. and 53 deg.
+south, and extending from 57 deg. to nearly 62 deg. west. The only two
+of considerable size are the East and West Falkland. These are separated
+by a channel. Around these islands are numerous rocks, whose distance
+from the shores, where tides run strongly, and winds are violent as well
+as sudden, renders it rather difficult to navigate. In approaching land,
+and particularly when entering a harbor, a good look-out should be kept
+for fixed kelp, which grows upon every rock covered by the sea, and not
+far below the surface. Lying upon the water, the leaves and stalk serve
+as well as a buoy to warn of hidden danger. A region more exposed to
+storms, both in summer and winter, it would be difficult to mention.
+High winds are prevalent, and very violent at times. During the summer,
+a calm day is an extraordinary event. Generally speaking, the nights are
+less windy than the days. Altogether, the appearance of these lonely
+isles of the South are dismal and uninviting in the extreme. Moorland
+and black bog extend in nearly every direction; although there are
+valleys affording coarse, excellent grass, upon which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_25">{25}</a></span> thousands of wild
+cattle subsist. Some tracts of land, I was informed, at the southern
+part of the island, were low, level, and abundantly productive of
+excellent herbage. Many years since, the French and Spanish left, at
+different times, cattle and horses upon the isle. They have multiplied
+and increased, until they now estimate the number at a hundred thousand
+head that are roaming wild over the hills.</p>
+
+<p>The ship being safely moored, I entreated my husband to take me on
+shore. After much persuasion, he consented. A boat was lowered, in
+which, after much difficulty, I was placed. This was effected by tying a
+rope around my waist, and lowering me down the ship’s side; then
+watching an opportunity when the boat was in a right position, to “lower
+away.” This method was of necessity adopted, the sea being so rough, I
+lacked the courage to leave the ship the usual way. When my feet were
+placed once more on <i>terra firma</i>, I inwardly resolved never again to
+return on ship-board. We wandered from the shore to the top of a small
+eminence, from whence, at a little distance, we descried a shanty.</p>
+
+<p>We approached, and, judging from the writing found upon the walls, it
+had been the resort of sailors thrown upon that inhospitable coast. In
+it<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_26">{26}</a></span> was a sort of stone fire-place, on which the sailors placed some
+dried heather found in the hut, which, when ignited, threw out a ruddy
+blaze that sent its cheering beams directly to the heart. On our way to
+the hut, we noticed several perforations in the earth. One of the
+sailors, desirous of investigating the origin of these holes, thrust his
+hand into one of them, but instantly withdrew it with a smothered oath,
+and an expression evincing acute pain. Immediately, out rushed a
+penguin, displaying unmistakable symptoms of a fight. Every hole
+contained a penguin, secreted there for the purpose of incubation. The
+sailors, of course, exasperated that a brother shipmate should receive
+such treatment as a reward for his prying curiosity, routed the whole
+posse of penguins, and a regular hand-to-hand battle ensued; for to the
+penguins can never be imputed one particle of cowardice, when the call
+for action is the defence of her eggs or young. Victory was, of course,
+conceded to the strongest party. But not always does “might make right.”</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could be seen in any direction inland but barren hills; yet,
+cheerless as was the prospect on shore, no entreaty, or even command, of
+my husband, could induce me to return to that burning ship. Here was a
+sad dilemma for my husband to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_27">{27}</a></span> be placed in. A sense of duty called him
+on board; yet he could not leave me on shore all night without a
+protector. Finally, at the intercession of the mate, who volunteered to
+take good care of the ship, he reluctantly consented to remain with me,
+although he spent the greater part of the night watching the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, as we were about to repair to the boat,&mdash;for, upon
+reflection, I concluded that to be the only way by which the settlement
+could be reached,&mdash;a horseman appeared in the distance, riding at a
+furious pace directly for us. As he approached, and reined in his
+jet-black steed in front of our party, I certainly never beheld such a
+perfect specimen of equestrian grace and manly beauty.</p>
+
+<p>Springing from his horse, he accosted us in a language unintelligible to
+all except “Old Tom,” as he was designated by his shipmates. He proved
+to be one of a class of men denominated guachos, who are employed in
+lassoing and bringing in wild cattle. Tom soon acquainted him with every
+particular concerning us; whereupon he insisted that the capitan’s
+señora should go with him to his ranch, about four miles distant, where
+every attention would be lavished by his señora to render me comfortable
+until I could proceed to the settlement.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_28">{28}</a></span> Tom interpreted the
+invitation, which, of course, I declined accepting, feeling a reluctancy
+to go with him alone. Discovering my hesitancy, he endeavored to remove
+all objections by bestowing several flattering encomiums upon my
+personal appearance, which were certainly ill-starred, and served only
+to increase my unwillingness to go with him unattended. It was at length
+decided that the second mate should accompany me.</p>
+
+<p>Our Spanish friend laughed at the idea of my being afraid to mount his
+spirited horse, and even objecting to be seated in front of him&mdash;the
+manner in which they often ride with señoritas. He mounted his horse
+alone; while Mr. Wood and myself walked by his side. My husband returned
+to the ship. We found it very tiresome travelling over the bogs, with
+the wind blowing almost a gale. After panting and puffing, and being
+obliged several times to stop and recover breath, we reached the top of
+a little eminence; and there, sure enough, was the veritable ranch. It
+looked so pleasant and home-like about the little cottage, that in vain
+I endeavored to repress those outgushings of the heart engendered by the
+sight of objects which recalled vividly to mind home, and all the warm
+and kindly associations connected therewith.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_29">{29}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A lovely little Spanish woman met us at the door, and, after exchanging
+a few words with her husband, she embraced me affectionately, led me to
+a pleasant little room looking out upon the bay, and placed a loaf of
+bread and pitcher of milk on a table by my side. She seemed really
+grieved because I could not swallow one mouthful. My feelings were fast
+gaining the ascendency. So much sympathy as she expressed, by her
+gestures and tender offices, completely won my affections.</p>
+
+<p>I had taken very little food after learning the ship was on fire, and,
+with feelings all the while wrought to such a state of excitement, the
+revulsion well-nigh prostrated me. In the meantime, word had reached the
+settlement that there was a ship in distress outside, and a number of
+the most popular men of the place had started to render any necessary
+assistance. Sometime after noon, they reached the Spaniard’s house,
+where we were, and learning of Mr. Wood the particulars, took him into
+the boat, and, with the exception of three of them, proceeded to meet
+the ship. It was blowing so hard, they would be compelled to beat the
+ship up the bay, which would, of course, occupy some time.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hamlin, the physician, the surveyor-general, and the clergyman, (the
+three who remained,) pro<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_30">{30}</a></span>posed taking the sail-boat belonging to the
+Spaniard, and take me at once to the colony; and, as their ladies were
+English, it would be pleasanter than to remain where I was.</p>
+
+<p>Therefore, I bade adieu to my beautiful Spanish friend, and about
+sundown reached the narrow entrance to the inner harbor. Two large
+wooden men stand on each side of the entrance, pointing towards the
+town. Passing through, you find yourself in one of the nicest,
+land-locked harbors in the world, where ships of the largest tonnage can
+lie in safety.</p>
+
+<p>The town is built at the base of the hills, which rise gradually from
+this beautiful basin. How far away from the busy, bustling world seemed
+this little hamlet! and how quiet and serene, I thought, must pass the
+lives of those dwelling upon this remote isle! The sun was shedding his
+last golden rays upon the surrounding hill-tops, before retiring to his
+hesperian couch. While inanimate nature was welcoming me to this haven
+of rest, how inexpressibly lonely I felt at heart, surrounded by
+strangers! No doubt they would extend a friendly greeting; but, oh, how
+my heart yearned for the warm welcome of some home-friend!</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hamlin took me to his house, where I was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_31">{31}</a></span> cordially received by his
+amiable lady, and nothing was omitted that could in any way contribute
+to my comfort, or serve to dispel those home-sick feelings which
+naturally acquired the ascendency. That night, sleep was a stranger to
+my pillow. I shall ever remember Mrs. Hamlin with feelings of affection.
+No kind mother could have bathed my aching head more tenderly. Oh, there
+is a magnetic power in kindness! Kind words are always winning, whether
+from friend or stranger.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon, the ship appeared at the entrance. After dropping
+anchor, my husband called a survey, opened her hatches, and found her to
+be so badly on fire, they decided to run her ashore, and scuttle her. He
+selected a spot which happened to be opposite the little grave-yard.
+Slowly and majestically was she wafted to her place of rest. Never more
+would she gallantly breast old ocean’s wave. With tearful eyes I watched
+her motions. She had been my home so long, I loved her as such. They cut
+holes in her side, and sank her in depth of water sufficient to cover
+the fire. For two days she was enveloped in steam, which precluded all
+possibility of gaining the deck. After the fire was extinguished, they
+stopped the holes, and worked the pumps incessantly, without
+dimin<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_32">{32}</a></span>ishing in the least the depth of water in the ship. She had
+bilged; her beams and stancheons were burnt off; and her lower deck had
+fallen in. She was condemned and sold at auction. It was our intention
+to go directly home, as soon as an opportunity presented. The isolated
+situation of the island prevented its being visited often, especially by
+ships homeward-bound; therefore, our stay there might be indefinitely
+protracted. There were about four hundred inhabitants in this remote
+colony, consisting of English, Spanish, and French. The people were
+under the immediate jurisdiction of a governor, who ruled with despotic
+power. The governor, clergyman, doctor, governor’s secretary,
+surveyor-general, and lawyer, are appointed by the queen, and receive a
+salary of four hundred pounds sterling per year, with the exception of
+the governor, who has eight hundred. These, with their families, also
+Lloyd’s agent, and <i>the</i> merchant, constitute the gentry, as they style
+themselves. The governor lives in princely style. To be seated in his
+reception-room, one would imagine himself in some English palace.
+Everything has been transported from England&mdash;both house and furniture.
+All the frame-buildings on the island were brought either from England
+or the main-land. Those of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_33">{33}</a></span> the poorer class were mere huts, constructed
+of peat and stone. Peat is also used by them for fuel. Those only who
+receive a salary can indulge in the luxury of a coal fire.</p>
+
+<p>There is not a tree on the island, with the exception of a few apologies
+for the same in the governor’s garden. They, upon being transplanted
+into such ungenial soil, had assumed a stinted, sickly appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The governor was a stern, austere-looking personage, greatly to be
+feared, and seldom loved. One little incident, that came under my own
+immediate perception, I will relate. It will serve, in a measure, to
+illustrate his arbitrary propensities. His household consisted of
+himself, wife, and two sons. The eldest was an imbecile, and so
+perfectly child-like in his disposition, that he readily won the
+sympathy of all the inhabitants. The youngest was a wild, head-strong
+sort of a chap, about fourteen years of age. For him they had employed a
+young governess, whom they brought with them from England. This young
+lady they treated more like a menial than as a companion for their
+children. They looked upon the young instructress as one born to labor
+and endure, seemingly unconscious that there were as deep fountains of
+sorrow and love<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_34">{34}</a></span> in her heart as there was in those who were fostered in
+wealth and luxury. One evening, there was a social gathering at the
+house of Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;; and, of course, Miss T&mdash;&mdash;, being an accomplished
+and intelligent young person, was present. Upon preparing to leave,
+early in the evening, (as she was required to be in by nine o’clock,)
+Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; proposed to accompany her, as her path lay near the barracks,
+where were always assembled a drunken, riotous set. Next morning, he
+received a note from the governor, requesting his immediate presence.
+Mrs. W&mdash;&mdash; felt quite alarmed at the thought of her husband incurring
+the displeasure of his majesty. Upon appearing before this august
+personage, he received a severe reprimand for so far forgetting his
+station as a gentleman as to escort home one whom he considered as a
+dependent upon his bounty, and also assured him, if he was guilty of the
+like offence again, he should consider him deficient in all that
+constituted a gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>The governor’s wife boasted of being a descendant of the “fair maid of
+Perth.” I have no reason to doubt the tie of consanguinity, although she
+certainly had not inherited any of the personal attractions of her
+lovely progenitor.</p>
+
+<p>They were all very kind to us, showing every<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_35">{35}</a></span> respect and attention.
+Doubtless, I often shocked them with my Yankee provincialisms. Every
+family of note had magnificent side-boards, stored with the choicest
+kinds of liquors and cordials. It was considered a breach of etiquette
+to refuse to partake of the good cheer set before you. What would our
+American ladies at the present day think of having such an array set
+before them, when making their accustomed calls? Yet it is universally
+practised here.</p>
+
+<p>To diminish our expenses, we concluded to go to housekeeping. My husband
+rented the only vacant building in the place, a miserable, barn-like
+shanty, for which he paid the exorbitant sum of thirty dollars per
+month. Thither we moved ourselves: we had little else to move. Nearly
+every one contributed some article of domestic use. Our larder was
+supplied with wild-fowl and beef, also a species of fish which are taken
+from the numerous streams which intersect the country. They are
+designated trout, but do not in appearance or flavor resemble our own
+speckled trout, which by epicures are considered such a nice treat. No
+kind of vegetables could be procured at any price. The inclemency of the
+weather, even in summer months, precludes the growth of the most hardy
+kind. Cold storms<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_36">{36}</a></span> of hail and sleet are of frequent occurrence in
+summer. One gentleman, by inclosing a piece of ground with a high peat
+wall to shelter it from the cold winds, had managed, by dint of great
+exertion, to raise a few cabbages.</p>
+
+<p>Often, when seated at my window, my attention had been attracted towards
+a lovely little girl, with soft dark eyes, and long auburn ringlets
+hanging in rich profusion over her shoulders. She was usually
+accompanied by a tall, dignified, melancholy-looking individual, who, I
+afterwards learned, stood in the relation of father. His very
+countenance, which was seldom irradiated by a smile, bore traces of
+ineffable sorrow. They would spend hours in sailing around the bay in a
+fancy yacht, which he kept moored opposite our house. Upon inquiry, I
+learned that for some time the gossiping and wonder-loving portion of
+the community had been kept in constant agitation regarding the mystery
+that surrounded Mr. Montague (for by that name was he known) and his
+family. He kept himself aloof from all society; and the only servant he
+kept had never been known to speak an intelligible word to any one. She
+seemed devotedly attached to her master, and guarded little Myrtie with
+watchful tenderness. Myrtie came to my door one day,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_37">{37}</a></span> bringing me a
+basket of nice little fish, and gracefully presented them, saying that
+she often amused herself by fishing. After that, she became a daily
+visitor. Daily my interest in that child increased. She was wonderfully
+endued with intellectual powers for one of her years. One day, she said
+to me, “Do you know why I brought you those fish? and what brings me
+every day to see you?” I told her I did not. Said she, “I do so love to
+look in your face! It makes me feel happy. I always think of some one I
+loved well, and called mamma. It seems such a long time ago,&mdash;so <i>very</i>
+long,&mdash;I sometimes think it was a dream. But, since you came here, I can
+remember more. I can recollect she looked like you; and, when you smile,
+you look as she used to, when she would kiss me, and call me her little
+darling. Oh, I remember how I cried when a tall, dark-looking man
+snatched me from my mamma’s arms,&mdash;how she looked, as she ran screaming
+after us!</p>
+
+<p>“I never saw her again. Then old ‘Nurse Bell’ took care of me. We sailed
+on the water a long, long time before we came here.” Her papa, she said,
+“was very kind, and she loved him; but she could love him better, if he
+would talk more about mamma.” When she asked him to tell her <i>all</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_38">{38}</a></span>
+about her, he would shake his head, look very gloomy, and say, “Your
+mamma is in heaven.” Her father was her only instructor, and she was far
+advanced in her studies. He also taught her music: she played and sang
+sweetly. For once I felt inclined to pardon the inquisitive; for they
+certainly had food for idle speculation. Dear little Myrtie! often have
+I sighed when thinking of your lonely situation, uncheered by the
+presence of that guardian angel of childhood&mdash;a mother&mdash;on whom you
+could bestow that wealth of affection concentrated in an almost <i>too</i>
+confiding and sensitive heart.</p>
+
+<p>The winter preceding our arrival at the islands had been one of unusual
+inclemency. Communication with the main-land was entirely cut off before
+the winter’s supply of hay and grain had been procured. In consequence,
+the cattle suffered incredibly. The snow, for two months, lay upon the
+ground to the depth of two feet. All the sustenance the cattle could
+obtain was insufficient to keep off starvation. They were often found
+dead, thirty and forty in heaps together.</p>
+
+<p>When the English first established this colony, they intended to export
+hides, tallow, seal-skins, and seal-oil. As yet, they have shipped no
+tallow. Sealing is carried on to a considerable extent.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_39">{39}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>England’s convicts, when banished to the sunny isle of Australia, are
+not as deserving of the sympathy of the philanthropist as are those old
+pensioners, to the number of thirty, who, with their families, have been
+induced, by the promises held out to them, and which they have found, to
+their sorrow, can never be fulfilled, to leave merry England, for a home
+on these barren islands.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> feathered tribes are very numerous on these islands of Southern
+hemisphere. Of penguins, there are four kinds&mdash;the king penguin, the
+macaroni, the jackass, and the rookery. The first of these is much
+larger than a goose; the other three are smaller, differing in
+appearance in several particulars. They all walk upright, with their
+legs projecting from their bodies in the same direction with their
+tails. When fifty or more of them are seen in file, they appear, at a
+distance, like a company of soldiers. They carry their heads high, with
+their wings drooping like two arms. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_40">{40}</a></span> breast-feathers are delicately
+white, with a line of black running across the crops. Seen at a
+distance, they have the appearance of little men, with a white bosom,
+black neckerchief, and short breeches. Their gait on land, however, is
+very awkward&mdash;rather more so than that of a sailor just returned from a
+long voyage.</p>
+
+<p>When tamed, the penguin becomes quite tractable. A lady at the isle had
+domesticated and made quite a pet of a king penguin, which she, however,
+proposed to relinquish for the sum of thirty dollars. She had taught him
+to sit at table with her. A sip of coffee he seemed to enjoy with much
+gusto; and if, perchance, she attempted to raise the cup to her lips
+before first presenting his majesty with a draught, he would, quick as
+thought, with a blow from one of his “hands,” dash the cup to the floor.
+He followed her about the house as a child follows its mother; and she
+assured us he was a great deal of company for her when alone.</p>
+
+<p>Another sea-fowl peculiar to the islands is the upland-goose, which is
+about the size of our domestic goose. Their plumage is rich and glossy:
+that of the gander is dazzlingly white. The down is equal to that of the
+swan. The teal are also found here, and far surpassing in beauty those
+of this<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_41">{41}</a></span> country. Their bills and feet are blue; their wings of a golden
+green. The ducks are similar to those found in the United States; but
+the manner of going a-ducking very dissimilar,&mdash;no lying in wait half a
+day before getting a good shot. You might take your gun and shoot them
+down, and dozens will come to ascertain the cause of the report.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to our arrival, three other vessels had put into the harbor in
+distress, and had been condemned. The crews of these vessels were
+constantly out gunning. I would see them often returning over the hills,
+laden with those beautiful white geese, looking like so many swans. A
+Dutch captain, whose vessel had been condemned, was very contentedly
+pursuing the “even tenor of his way,” bringing in the game, while “mine
+frow” was as industriously manufacturing feather beds. Never having
+heard them say anything about getting away, I presume they are yet at
+the old vocation.</p>
+
+<p>A moral philosopher and naturalist would be highly interested in
+contemplating, for days, the operations of a South Sea rookery,
+observing the order and regularity with which everything is conducted.
+When a sufficient number of penguins, albatross, etc., are assembled on
+shore, they proceed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_42">{42}</a></span> to the execution of the grand object for which they
+left their native element. First, they trace a well-defined
+parallelogram, of requisite extent to accommodate the whole
+fraternity,&mdash;perhaps from one to four or five acres. One side runs
+parallel with the water’s edge, and is left open for egress and regress.
+They then commence picking up the stones, and depositing them outside
+the lines; thus creating quite a little wall on three sides. Within this
+wall they form a pathway, several feet in width, which would not suffer,
+in regard to smoothness, compared with any fashionable promenade in our
+city parks. This path is for the sentinels to patrol at night. They next
+lay out the whole in little squares, formed by narrow paths which cross
+each other at right angles. At each intersection of these paths, an
+albatross constructs her nest; while in the centre of each square is a
+penguin’s nest.</p>
+
+<p>Although the penguin and albatross profess such sincere attachment for
+one another, they not only form their nests in a different manner, but
+the penguin will rob her friend’s nest, whenever an opportunity
+presents; being ambitious, I suppose, to produce a large family. The
+penguin’s nest is formed by an excavation in the earth; while that of
+the albatross is formed by throwing up a mound of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_43">{43}</a></span> earth, eight or ten
+inches high; on the summit of which she can scrutinize the proceedings
+of her nearest neighbors and best friends.</p>
+
+<p>The camp of the rookery is in continual motion; penguins passing through
+the different paths, on their return from aquatic excursions, eager to
+caress their mates after a temporary absence; while the latter are
+passing out in quest of refreshment and recreation. At the same time,
+the air is almost darkened by an innumerable number of albatross
+hovering over the rookery, continually lighting, and meeting their
+companions; while others are rising, and shaping their course for the
+sea. To see these creatures of the ocean so faithfully discharge the
+duties assigned them by the great Creator; to witness their affectionate
+re-unions, their numerous acts of tenderness and courtesy to each other,
+the reflection naturally arises, that, if there was only as much harmony
+and genuine affection between wedded pairs of the human family, the
+connubial state would then indeed be “all that we dream of heaven.”</p>
+
+<p>We had remained at the islands about a month, when the ship Humayoon,
+from Dundee, (McKenzie, master,) bound to Valparaiso, laden with coal,
+tar, and liquors, put into port to procure water and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_44">{44}</a></span> beef. The captain
+formed an acquaintance with my husband, and, after learning the
+particulars of our situation, very kindly offered us a passage to
+Valparaiso; from whence we could, in all probability, arrive home sooner
+than by remaining where we were. After having procured the necessaries
+required, I expected the captain would at once proceed on his voyage;
+but, being perfectly independent, as he was sole owner of the fine ship
+and cargo, he protracted his stay at the settlement day after day,
+thereby gratifying the mirth-loving portion of the community by
+assembling them at different times on ship-board, to join in the merry
+dance. He had on board several musical instruments, which he was taking
+out to dispose of; and, being possessed of extraordinary musical
+talents, the people were perfectly delighted and entranced with
+specimens of his skill. He had a perfect passion for Scotch airs, which,
+all conceded, never before sounded half so enlivening. But pleasures,
+however transporting, unhappily cannot last. No chain, be it of gold, or
+pearl, or flowers, can bind the stubborn wings of Time, and bid him
+loiter on his way. On the morning of the 25th of November, he weighed
+anchor, and turned her bows towards the entrance.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_45">{45}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I cast a last, sad, lingering look at the old Nonantum, and bade adieu
+to kind friends, whom, probably, I should never meet again on the
+journey of life, although they would be often remembered. During my
+sojourn at the islands, although I found kind friends, I passed many a
+gloomy hour. As the season approached which, from time immemorial, in
+dear old New England, has been observed as a day of thanksgiving and
+prayer,&mdash;a day, of all others, when severed families assemble under the
+paternal roof, to meet once again the loved friends of their youth, to
+tread again the paths hallowed by childhood’s earliest
+recollections,&mdash;the anniversary of such a day, while in this remote
+region, crowded my memory with reminiscences of the past, pleasurable,
+from the associations which they recalled, and painful, from the
+position which I then occupied.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Once</span> more I found myself on board a good ship, bounding gayly over the
+blue waters. Captain<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_46">{46}</a></span> McKenzie possessed, in an eminent degree, the
+ability of rendering his passengers perfectly at home and happy. His
+crew were composed entirely of Scotchmen; and, every evening, the echo
+of their merry Scotch songs were wafted far over the deep sea. Captain
+McKenzie proposed teaching to me the Spanish language, being a perfect
+linguist himself. He found me far more tractable in that than in
+learning to take a glass of his “good Scotch whiskey,” as he termed it,
+to which I had taken a mortal aversion, and for which he entertained a
+decided preference.</p>
+
+<p>He was a skilful navigator, and, on his voyages around Cape Horn,
+invariably passed through the Straits of Le Maire, which separate Staten
+Land from Terra del Fuego, and, by “hugging the land,” escape some of
+the severe blows so prevalent in that region. He having been on several
+exploring expeditions in those waters, I experienced a degree of
+security I should not otherwise have felt in approaching so near to huge
+and jagged rocks, that for ages had reared their frowning heads, as if
+in defiance of old ocean’s roar. We passed the veritable Cape Horn
+(situated on Hermit Island) in such close proximity, one could
+distinctly discern the barren soil. While I stood gazing at the
+conical</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_002.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_002.jpg" width="550" height="320" alt="BURNING OF THE HUMAYOON."></a>
+<br>
+<span class="caption">BURNING OF THE HUMAYOON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="nind">mount, said the captain, “You have now seen what many an old navigator
+in these waters never beheld, they keep so far south.” I assured him one
+sight was sufficient for a life-time; that the remembrance of the
+wildness and grandeur of that ocean scene would never be obliterated
+from the pages of memory.</p>
+
+<p>That night, it came on to blow tremendously. Next morning, we found
+ourselves eighty miles from land, and, horror of horrors, the ship on
+fire! My heart refused to give credence to the startling report, until
+my eyes beheld it. Our worst fears were too soon confirmed by the flames
+darting upwards, and igniting the hatch the men were vainly endeavoring
+to caulk; for fear had paralyzed their faculties. When that burnt and
+fell in, the flames shot upward almost to the top-mast-head. The
+combustible nature of the cargo caused the fire to increase with
+wonderful rapidity. The long-boat was launched, and I was placed
+therein, with my pet-goat; for I would not leave her behind: the other I
+had given to Myrtie. After several ineffectual attempts to get at some
+bread and water, the fire and smoke drove them all in confusion to the
+boat. They pulled off a short distance, and we gazed in sadness and
+silence upon what was so re<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_48">{48}</a></span>cently our happy home, now a burning wreck.
+The calmness of despair pervaded my whole being: all was comprehended at
+a glance,&mdash;eighty miles from land, and that an inhospitable coast,
+inhabited only by savages; without bread or water; in an open boat,
+exposed to the inclemency of Cape Horn weather! People on the land,
+seated by their pleasant firesides, imagine they can understand our
+feelings at that time; but it is impossible. Even when danger, in its
+most appalling form, threatens on the land, there is generally some
+avenue of escape open. But at sea, with nought but a frail plank between
+you and a watery grave,&mdash;and that so fragile, one dash of those mighty
+waves might annihilate it,&mdash;oh, the horror of such a situation can
+<i>never</i> be conceived!</p>
+
+<p>All at once, the joyful cry of “Sail, ho!” was shouted from our midst;
+and, far away, I could descry a speck upon the ocean. Nearer and nearer
+it came, until, when within about a mile of us, she “hove to,” and
+lowered away a boat, which came bounding over the water to our relief.
+This ship proved to be the Symmetry, of Liverpool, Captain Thompson,
+bound to Acapulco, and laden with coal. How that word rang in my ears!
+It seemed to me every ship that floated was coal-laden. We repaired<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_49">{49}</a></span> at
+once on board the Symmetry. Capt. McKenzie requested, as a favor, that
+Capt. Thompson would “lay by” until the Humayoon was burned down. Now
+that we could view her from a place of safety, it was a scene to rivet
+the attention of all beholders. Flying about, at the mercy of the wind
+and waves, the flames bursting out her sides (the liquor was stowed aft)
+and stern, the blue flames wreathed and flashed higher and higher. Soon
+the main and mizen-mast began to totter: they swayed to and fro for
+about ten minutes, when they fell with a crash over the side. Soon the
+fore-mast fell; and all that remained of the fine ship Humayoon lay a
+burning mass upon the water.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Thompson now made sail, and soon the remains of that noble ship
+which, only twelve days previously, had borne us from our island
+retreat, was obscured from our view. Her commander dropped a tear to her
+memory, and retired in silence to the cabin.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Thompson was accompanied by his wife and family. I was pleased
+at the idea of enjoying for a season, however brief, the society of a
+female friend. Capt. Thompson had previously informed us that our stay
+on board the Symmetry must of necessity be prolonged no farther than
+such a time<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_50">{50}</a></span> as he could speak some ship. His inability to accommodate
+us longer than was actually necessary was owing to a scarcity of
+provisions, his own ship’s crew being then on an allowance. He had been
+seven months from Liverpool. He had put into Rio on the way, where, on
+account of severe indisposition, he had remained several weeks. While
+there, his crew had nearly all deserted him. When ready for sea, he
+shipped any he could get; and a sorry set he had. Part of them had
+mutinied, and were confined; and the other half carried the principles
+of revolt, too apparent to be mistaken, in their dark countenances.</p>
+
+<p>Night had now spread its sable mantle over the world of waters; the
+bright constellations were reflected in the deep; and the noble ship,
+with majestic and graceful motion, was cleaving a pathway for herself
+through the rapidly heaving billows. My thoughts, as my eyes wandered
+over the waste of waters, were busy with the past and present,&mdash;for the
+future I could only hope. But a few months had intervened since leaving
+Baltimore; and yet how much intense anxiety, actual suffering, and
+harrowing suspense, were crowded into that short space! One day on board
+a burning ship, with no hope of escape; then a port of safety in view;
+then<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_51">{51}</a></span> on board another ship, with every prospect of a speedy termination
+of our eventful voyage; then, again, assailed by fire, and obliged to
+seek safety in an open boat, far from land; and then transferred to a
+place of temporary safety,&mdash;for what could we expect but a recurrence of
+those awful scenes, while on board a coal-laden ship? “What,” thought I,
+“will be the end? Shall I ever be permitted to reach in safety the land
+of my birth?” I dared not entertain a hope seemingly so fallacious. As
+time progressed, I was often reminded, by painful contrast, of the
+fleeting happiness enjoyed on board the Humayoon. <i>There</i> a spirit of
+harmony and love seemed to pervade the whole ship’s company. The reverse
+of this at sea is disagreeable in the extreme; and the truth of this
+assertion was never more clearly demonstrated than on board the
+Symmetry. In lieu of heart-stirring songs and happy faces, gloomy
+frowns, and curses “not loud but deep,” met the ear at every turn;
+anarchy and discord went hand in hand. Daily I scanned the ocean in
+search of a sail, anticipating a happy change, yet dreading what I most
+desired; for had not experience taught me that whatever we most
+earnestly desire, when attained, often proves the source of the keenest
+misery? At the expiration<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_52">{52}</a></span> of thirteen days, the anxiously expected sail
+appeared. Mentally I prayed it might be an American; for with my own
+countrymen there exists a congruity of thought and feeling which renders
+their society more congenial. As she neared us, we perceived, to our
+great joy, that she was a large American ship. In answer to Captain
+Thompson’s signal, she hove to. He then sent a boat to ascertain if we
+could be transferred to her. She proved to be the Fanchon, of
+Newburyport, Captain Lunt, bound to San Francisco, laden with coal,
+which she took in at Baltimore. We became acquainted with Captain Lunt
+while at Baltimore. The Nonantum had sailed three weeks in advance of
+the Fanchon. The Nonantum had gone to her last resting-place; and here,
+on the broad Pacific, we met the Fanchon, in all her pristine
+architectural beauty, unharmed, and yet laden with Cumberland coal. Upon
+Capt. Lunt learning that we were on board the Symmetry, he came with all
+possible haste in his own boat to convey us to the Fanchon.</p>
+
+<p>In the interim, Captain McKenzie had effected a compromise with Captain
+Thompson, to the effect that he would sail as near to the port of
+Valparaiso as would render it safe and feasible for Captain McKenzie and
+crew to embark in their long-boat,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_53">{53}</a></span> and arrive at their destined port.
+How well they succeeded, future events will promulgate.</p>
+
+<p>I should judge, the two ships lay about a mile apart. Soon after we
+welcomed Captain Lunt on board the Symmetry, the heavens became suddenly
+overcast; and, as appearances betokened a squall, it was thought
+advisable for me to depart instantly with Captain Lunt; while my husband
+should collect what effects we had preserved from the Humayoon and my
+goat, and come in the ship’s boat. Thinking and hoping we should reach
+the Fanchon before the squall struck, they watched us with intense
+anxiety from the ships. When little more than mid-way between the ships,
+it came. Drenched with spray, and clinging to my seat, I dared not
+express my terror other than by looks. “Do not be alarmed,” said Capt.
+Lunt. “There is no danger to be apprehended. We shall soon reach the
+Fanchon; and, when once on her deck, all trouble and danger will flee
+away.” By such cheering words, he endeavored to divert my thoughts from
+our by no means enviable situation. My heart almost ceased its
+pulsations as we bounded over the white-crested billows. How intently
+were we watched by those on board the Symmetry! When we would disappear
+from their view in the trough of the sea,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_54">{54}</a></span> Mrs. Thompson would exclaim,
+“They are gone! they are lost!” and, when we appeared on the top of some
+mighty wave, would the fervent exclamation, “Thank God, they are safe!”
+ascend from every heart. By some mischance or other, in attempting to
+get alongside, we were swept towards the ship’s stern. She was plunging
+and rolling terribly. “My God, we are under the stern!” was the hasty
+ejaculation borne to my ears; and there, towering high above us over our
+frail boat, was the noble ship, threatening instant destruction. It was
+but momentary. By almost superhuman exertion, the boat’s crew succeeded
+in placing our frail bark beyond the reach of imminent danger; and, as
+the ship dashed down into the bosom of her native element, we were
+beyond her reach, but not far enough to escape the tumultuous dashing of
+the waters, which for an instant caused me to doubt my being in the
+boat. The second attempt to reach her side was crowned with success. A
+rope was thrown from the ship, which was caught by those in the boat. It
+required the united exertions of all to keep the boat from being dashed
+to pieces against the ship’s side. It seemed almost an impossibility for
+me to ascend the side of the ship unassisted; but so I must go, if I
+went at all, and that right</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_003.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_003.jpg" width="550" height="325" alt="TRANSFER FROM THE SHIP SYMMETRY TO THE FANCHON."></a>
+<br>
+<span class="caption">TRANSFER FROM THE SHIP SYMMETRY TO THE FANCHON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="nind">speedily. I could scarcely retain an upright position in the boat; and
+yet, as the ship rolled towards us, my instructions were to jump and
+catch the man-ropes, and cling hold until she careened the other way,
+and then to climb the steps as quickly as possible. The water was
+boiling and surging between the ship and the boat in such a manner as to
+intimidate a much <i>larger</i> female than myself. Captain Lunt was to give
+the word when to jump; and, when “Now is your time! now is your time!”
+came thundering in my ears, all my innate fortitude deserted me; I was
+powerless to move. Captain Lunt, rightly conjecturing that, unless moved
+by some sudden impulse of resentment, I should never gain the deck,
+looked and spoke his feelings of disapproval so palpably, (he afterwards
+assured me it cost him no small effort to conceal his genuine feelings,)
+that I felt I would make an attempt, “live or die, sink or swim.” When
+next the word was given, it was promptly obeyed. I jumped, caught one of
+the ropes with both hands, and clung with the tenacity of one whose only
+hope of preservation depended upon a firm grasp. I was all the time
+cheered by the cry of “Hold on; you are safe!” In a moment I had clasped
+the other rope, ascended the steps, and was placed upon deck by the
+mate.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_56">{56}</a></span> I could recollect nothing more distinctly, until I found myself
+in a beautiful cabin, attended by an old man, judging from his silvered
+locks; yet his fresh and healthy appearance gave evidence that, although
+“Father Time” had whitened his hair, he had made but few inroads upon a
+healthy constitution. He was the steward&mdash;an old and devoted servant to
+the captain, in whose employ he had been for seventeen years. He was a
+native of England. His words of consolation to me were, “God bless your
+dear little heart!” accompanied by a pat on my shoulder; “may you never
+be in such a situation again. Lord bless you! The sight of one of my
+girls in a like situation would well-nigh break my heart.” Soon my
+husband arrived in safety. Captain Lunt made sail, and, long before the
+shades of evening descended, the Symmetry was scarcely discernible. The
+Fanchon was far her superior, as regarded sailing qualities and
+symmetrical proportions. All the symmetry the other could boast of lay
+in the name. I wished her success, and a safe arrival at her destined
+port. She had been my home for thirteen days; and, although there were
+many disagreeable incidents connected with our stay on board, yet she
+had appeared to render assistance, when our hopes were at the lowest
+ebb.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_57">{57}</a></span> Under these considerations, I bade her adieu as an old friend. The
+cupidity of her captain may be illustrated by the fact of his presenting
+a bill of one hundred and fifty dollars to my husband, as he was about
+leaving the ship. There was no alternative but to pay it, situated as we
+were. For this mean act he was published. The news reached the ear of
+his employer, who quickly refunded the amount, and also discharged him
+from his employ. Once again we met the Symmetry, before the termination
+of this never-to-be-forgotten voyage. When and where, time and future
+pages will explain.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Our</span> home on board the Fanchon was all the most fastidious could desire.
+Captain Lunt was possessed of all those gentlemanly attributes which are
+calculated to win the possessor friends, and respect from all with whom
+he associates. Ever joyous and light-hearted, the salutary effects
+produced by the exercise of these excellent properties seemed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_58">{58}</a></span> to
+pervade the hearts of all subject to his control. He also being a
+judicious disciplinarian, the greatest neatness and order imaginable
+prevailed throughout the ship. Our fancied security&mdash;our sanguine
+expectations that our troubles from fire at sea were at an end&mdash;our
+hopes of a safe and speedy termination of our voyage&mdash;all these
+heart-cheering feelings were sustained and strengthened by reiterated
+assurances from Captain Lunt that there was no danger whatever of the
+Fanchon’s burning, she was so well ventilated. In fact, he attributed
+the destruction of the other ships to want of proper ventilation.
+Besides, he argued, that if there had been the least probability of its
+taking fire, it would have done so long ago. We all conceded his
+arguments were decidedly conclusive; and, for a few days, anxiety, fear,
+suspense, and all the attendant train of harrowing reflections, were
+strangers to my bosom. But as frail and fleeting as are all the
+evanescent joys of earth were my hopes. On the 25th of December, in the
+evening, as we sat conversing of the day, and the manner in which they
+were celebrating it at our far distant homes, and vainly wishing that,
+by another Christmas, our places in the family circle would not be
+vacant, a puff of air was wafted into the cabin, so strongly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_59">{59}</a></span>
+impregnated with gas as to render the conviction certain in my mind,
+that the coal was on fire. I speedily gave utterance to my fears, which
+met with a responsive “Pshaw! you have inhaled and smelt gas so often,
+it has become accessory to your very being.”</p>
+
+<p>They failed, however, in eradicating from my mind the impression that
+the coal was on fire. Upon retiring for the night, the thought of being,
+for the third time, on board a burning ship, so harassed me as to
+completely banish slumber from my pillow. Next morning, the captain
+instituted a search throughout the ship, which proved, beyond a doubt in
+his mind, there could be no fire. We were now about twelve hundred miles
+from land, with a fair wind, on the direct course for San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>Things remained in this state for two or three days. I cannot affirm
+that the minds of <i>all</i> were perfectly free from apprehension; yet, as
+strict watch was kept, and nothing except that disagreeable smell of gas
+was apparent to confirm my fears, I felt a little more at rest. The
+third day, as Capt. Lunt was watching one of the large ventilators on
+deck, he saw something having the appearance of smoke escaping
+therefrom. He sprang down be<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_60">{60}</a></span>tween decks&mdash;there was no appearance of
+smoke or fire whatever; raised the lower hatch&mdash;all appeared as usual.
+He then ordered the second mate to dig down into the coal, and soon
+proofs beyond a doubt were too apparent. The coal was so hot, it could
+not be taken in the hand. The whole body of coal, two or three feet
+below the surface, was red hot. The same preparations for a life on
+board a burning ship were again repeated that it had been my fortune
+twice previously to witness. In this instance, we had not to contend
+with the elements of wind and water as well as fire; for the ocean, at
+times, was as smooth and transparent as a glass. For a time, Captain
+Lunt shaped his course for the Galapagos Islands, what wind there was
+being favorable to waft us in that direction; and, our distance from the
+islands and the main-land being nearly equal, he was undecided for some
+time which port would be our destination. Being within the tropics, the
+weather was exceedingly pleasant&mdash;almost too much so for our benefit.</p>
+
+<p>For several days in succession, it would remain perfectly calm. The
+nights were beautifully serene; not a cloud, or the slightest film of
+vapor, appeared on the face of the deep blue canopy of the heavens. The
+moon, and countless starry host of the firma<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_61">{61}</a></span>ment, exhibited their
+lustrous splendor in a perfection of brilliancy unknown to the
+night-watchers in the humid regions of the Atlantic. The ship would be
+lying listlessly upon the surface of the unbroken waste of waters, while
+our minds were constantly agitated between hope and fear,&mdash;hope, that
+each morn, as the golden orb of day appeared rising from old ocean’s
+bosom, that, ere she bid us farewell at eve, some welcome sail would
+come to the rescue; and fear, as each returning day numbered
+disappointed hopes, and increased the heat on ship-board, that we were
+indeed a doomed crew.</p>
+
+<p>At night, signal-lights were kept burning, in the hope of attracting the
+attention of some vessel which might be passing. For days look-outs were
+stationed aloft, and more than once were our ears gladdened with the
+joyful cry of “Sail, ho!” which as often proved a vain illusion. The
+strained vision and anxious solicitude of those on the look-out caused
+them to imagine they saw that which they vainly desired to behold.</p>
+
+<p>I was induced, by the entreaties and advice of my husband, seconded by
+those of Captain Lunt, to adopt gentlemen’s apparel. Considering the
+danger and exposure we might be subjected to, should we be compelled to
+remain any length of time in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_62">{62}</a></span> the boats,&mdash;to which, unless relief
+arrived from some other source, we should resort to soon,&mdash;it was not,
+everything considered, a bad idea, which might never have been carried
+into effect had Capt. Lunt been as large in stature as my husband.
+Accordingly, from the captain’s wardrobe was selected a pair of black
+pants, a green hunting-coat, black satin vest, bosom, and collar worn à
+la Byron, and a purple velvet smoking-cap. Arrayed in this garb, I was
+scarcely recognizable by my friends on board. Days came and passed, and
+yet no relief appeared. Daily, convincing proofs appeared to warn us of
+the slow but sure destruction of the ship, in the form of gas and smoke,
+which were escaping through every seam. The beautiful paint-work and
+gilding of the cabin assumed the darkest hue; everything on board seemed
+shrouded in the sable habiliments of mourning. Slowly and gradually we
+neared the land; and, after three weeks of intense suspense and
+solicitude, the exulting cry of “Land, ho!” was echoed far and near. It
+was an uninhabited part of the coast of Peru&mdash;a small bay, or, rather,
+indenture made in at this place, called the Bay of Sechura. Into this
+bay the ship was guided; and, when about two miles from shore, she was
+brought to an anchor, at about four o’clock, <small>P.M.</small> As soon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_63">{63}</a></span> as the
+wished-for haven appeared, I hastened to my state-room, and doffed my
+male attire, supremely happy to exchange what I had so reluctantly
+adopted, and what each succeeding day of usage rendered still more
+distasteful. Rest assured, O ye of the opposite sex, that I, for one,
+will never attempt to appropriate to myself the indispensables, or the
+love of lordly power which usually accompanies them, but leave <i>you</i> in
+undisputed possession of your rights!</p>
+
+<p>Long before we reached our anchorage, the roaring of the surf, as it
+dashed upon the lonely beach, sounded like a mournful dirge to our ears.
+There appeared to be a short stretch of sandy beach, circumscribed by
+high and jutting rocks. Around us, on either side, were innumerable
+breakers, threatening destruction as we approached nearer; yet we heeded
+not our dangerous proximity to sunken rocks, but the noble ship bounded
+gayly over the waters, unmindful of the destiny awaiting the doomed.</p>
+
+<p>In the distance could be discerned the Andes Mountains, rearing their
+lofty heads in silent grandeur, and seeming to penetrate the blue dome
+of the o’er-arching heavens. Immediately upon bringing the ship to an
+anchor, preparations were made<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_64">{64}</a></span> to effect a landing in the boats.
+Captain Lunt and my husband deposited their nautical instruments and
+charts, and some few articles of clothing, in a chest which they had
+rendered as nearly water-proof as possible, and consigned it to one of
+the boats. We threw overboard all the spare spars upon deck, and
+everything that would float. We had no provisions or water to take on
+shore, and had been refreshed with none through the day. There was one
+pig on board that had left Baltimore in the ship, and one hen. These,
+together with my pet-goat, the sailors took under their own immediate
+protection, and succeeded in landing them on the beach. The pig, in the
+height of his terror, beat an instantaneous retreat into one of the
+numerous caves, or recesses, situated at the base of perpendicular
+cliffs, which rose nearly two hundred feet, and presented an effectual
+barrier to any attempt that might be made to scale them. I recollect
+distinctly my sensations on leaving the ship in a boat; how intently I
+watched the foaming surf we were fast approaching, and which had already
+engulfed the boat in advance; then an indistinct recollection of roaring
+and splashing of water,&mdash;of voices heard above the din of all, giving
+directions,&mdash;of being dragged, minus bonnet and shawl, through the
+surf</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_004.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_004.jpg" width="550" height="342" alt="BURNING OF THE FANCHON ON THE COAST OF PERU."></a>
+<br>
+<span class="caption">BURNING OF THE FANCHON ON THE COAST OF PERU.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_65">{65}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="nind">upon the sandy beach. Of my very unceremonious introduction within the
+precincts of the province of Peru, I have no very pleasing
+recollections. After removing everything off the ship’s deck, they ran
+her still nearer in, and scuttled her; but the fire had made such
+progress, it was impossible to save her. In two hours after we left her
+deck, she burst out into a sheet of flame. The fire caught to the sails,
+which were spread to the breeze, and she was a sheet of fire to the
+mast-heads. Here, in this lonely bay, lay the fine ship Fanchon, and
+burnt to the water’s edge. Nothing could exceed the almost awful
+profoundness of the solitude by which we were surrounded&mdash;a silence
+broken only by the roaring and crackling of the flames, as they wreathed
+and shot far upward, illuminating the midnight darkness, and casting the
+reflection of their fiery glare far out over the lonely deep,&mdash;and the
+deep roar of the eternally restless waves, as they dashed in rapid
+succession upon the beach at our feet. It is quite impossible to convey
+by language an adequate conception of the solemn magnificence of this
+midnight scene. The burning ship in the foreground, the light from which
+revealed the sublime altitude of the mountains in the background, whose
+barren heads seemed to pierce the sky, every ob<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_66">{66}</a></span>ject distinctly
+daguerreotyped; the rocks on either hand, laved for ages by the white
+sea-foam; the bald and inaccessible cliffs in close proximity, in the
+rear; and twenty-six human beings (myself numbering the only female)
+standing upon the narrow beach, viewing silently the work of
+destruction, rapidly progressing, which deprived us of a home, and the
+necessary sustenance required to support life,&mdash;only a skilful artist,
+with his pencil and brush, could do justice to the picture here drawn.
+By three o’clock that night, nought remained to mark the spot&mdash;where, a
+few hours previous, lay the gallant ship&mdash;but a smoking hulk.</p>
+
+<p>I sank into an unquiet slumber superinduced by exhaustion, fairly cried
+myself to sleep, and rested my weary limbs upon a couch of beach-sand.
+Next morning, we discovered several rafts (or, as they are there
+denominated, balsas) coming into the bay. They were covered with
+Indians&mdash;a sort of mongrel race, who live principally upon their balsas,
+scarcely ever visiting the shore except to procure water and potatoes.
+They subsist mostly upon raw fish. They speak the Spanish language. They
+anchored their crafts outside the surf, then dove into the water, and
+swam to the shore. They were nearly in a state of nudity. Their
+demeanor<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_67">{67}</a></span> was entirely pacific. They advanced towards us with hands
+extended, in token of friendship. They had been attracted to the spot by
+the light from the burning ship, and had assembled in considerable
+numbers, doubtless in the hope of obtaining pillage, as they rather
+demurred in rendering any assistance, unless stimulated by a promise of
+compensation. For “mucha pesos,” they agreed to furnish us with water
+and sweet potatoes while we remained upon the beach. They peremptorily
+refused to take us to Payta,&mdash;the nearest settlement, which was fifty
+miles distant,&mdash;thinking, doubtless, it would be a more profitable
+speculation for them to protract our stay upon the beach, until, at
+least, the “pesos” were all gone. I was constrained to offer my pet-goat
+to them, in exchange for water: she had long since ceased to furnish
+milk. Poor thing! after having encountered so many fiery trials, she was
+but a wreck of her former self. Much as I regretted to part with her, I
+felt it to be a duty I owed her, for past favors received, to mitigate
+her woes as far as it lay in my power. With a last, sad, lingering look
+at her mistress, and a despairing farewell bleat, she was dragged away.
+The natives informed us we were fifteen leagues from any fresh water;
+thereby giving us to understand that we<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_68">{68}</a></span> were very dependent mortals.
+They then departed, promising to come on the morrow with a fresh supply.
+Their balsas are constructed of very buoyant, porous logs, bound
+together in the form of a raft; then another layer, transverse the
+former. In the centre, it is raised still higher.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Here</span> indeed was a new phase of existence, gloomy enough in anticipation,
+yet far preferable to the dangerous scenes in which it had heretofore
+been my fortune to participate. The sailors pitched four small tents;
+two for themselves, and two for the officers. These served for a shelter
+at night; but, during the day, when the sun shone with an almost
+scorching fervency of heat, unmitigated by a single cloud on the face of
+the sky, it was almost impossible to remain in them. To augment our
+troubles, the fleas were so numerous and so blood-thirsty, that for a
+few days I was in perpetual motion. When once they made a lodgment in
+our clothing, it was useless to attempt to exterminate<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_69">{69}</a></span> them; and <i>they</i>
+never capitulate. At night, upon retiring, our only preparation was to
+spread a blanket upon the sand, and lie down upon it. In the morning, we
+would find ourselves almost imbedded in the loose beach-sand; for, upon
+the dry part of the beach, it was quite deep. I would rise, and shake my
+head to dislodge the quantity of sand there collected. My hair was
+hanging unconfined over my shoulders, having lost comb, hair-pins, and
+bonnet. I would walk down to the shore of the Pacific,&mdash;an ample
+wash-bowl, certainly,&mdash;and perform my ablutions, dispensing, of
+necessity, with all the modern appurtenances of a lady’s toilet.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Lunt proposed to send to the American Consul at Payta for
+assistance to remove us from the beach. His mate, Mr. McCrelles, of
+Belfast, Maine, volunteered to go, accompanied by four of the sailors.
+The next day after our arrival there, they embarked on their voyage to
+obtain the relief we so much needed. Their directions were, to keep
+close in shore; and, with God’s blessing, they would arrive at Payta,
+and assistance would reach us at the expiration of a week. We watched
+the little boat until she looked like a speck upon the water; and, with
+many an unuttered prayer for her safe arrival, we turned our thoughts
+landward,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_70">{70}</a></span>&mdash;I to amuse myself by selecting the most beautiful shells I
+could find: they were very numerous among the rocks at each extremity of
+the beach. I was never lonely: I found companions in my own thoughts;
+and they were oftentimes pleasanter than the gayer ones of the world
+would have been, for they whispered of home and loved friends.</p>
+
+<p>There was the skeleton of a whale perfect, and entirely exposed. How
+long the remains of this huge aquatic monster had been bleaching under
+the scorching rays of that tropical sun, we had no means of
+ascertaining.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians faithfully kept their promise, and each succeeding day they
+visited us with a plentiful supply of water and potatoes; the bill of
+fare varied occasionally by the introduction of some very offensive
+fowl, which they positively asserted were “esta bueno.” An amusement in
+which I often indulged was to chase innumerable crabs, with which the
+beach was literally covered in the mornings. They would, upon the first
+intimation of pursuit, disappear instantly into their holes in the hard
+sand. By remaining perfectly quiet for some time, they would again
+assemble in numbers, which the least movement on my part would again put
+to flight. They would make greater progress running<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_71">{71}</a></span> sideways than I
+could any way; therefore, I never caught one.</p>
+
+<p>The pig remained secreted in his cavernous retreat, which no entreaties
+on our part could induce him to vacate. Not until driven to the last
+extremity by the pangs of hunger, did he venture to reconnoitre from the
+aperture. After viewing his companions in distress for a little time, he
+gained sufficient courage to eat potatoes from my hand. After that, he
+became quite domesticated, and, with the hen, used to share the sailors’
+tent with them at nights.</p>
+
+<p>During this time, I was unconsciously assuming the dark and swarthy hue
+of the native women, from being constantly exposed to the scorching
+glare of a tropical sun. My habiliments, too, were becoming exceedingly
+soiled, from constant use both by night and day.</p>
+
+<p>The love and spirit of adventure had, from earliest infancy, been
+strongly implanted in my nature; and, during this voyage, certainly,
+this predilection for thrilling adventure had been amply gratified. Yet,
+had not the fiery ordeal through which it had pleased the God of love to
+bring me been for good, it would have been averted.</p>
+
+<p>A week had now elapsed since the departure of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_72">{72}</a></span> the boat. Intently we
+scanned the ocean, in the hope of descrying the anxiously expected sail.
+Nights, at the hour of twilight, I would seat myself upon the rocks to
+indulge in the reveries which that most fitting hour for reflection
+usually calls up. The mind feels a soothing influence as the light of
+day fades gradually from sight. At such times memory is busy with the
+past&mdash;the distant home, the loved friends there assembled. I often
+wandered in this way through the spirit-land of old times. One night I
+was startled by the exultant cry of “A sail! a sail!” Being fearful lest
+some casualty had befallen the boat, and she had never reached Payta,
+Captain Lunt deemed it advisable to make signals, in the hope of
+attracting attention. She kept on her way, apparently unmindful of the
+signals which she could not but have seen, as the captain had sent up a
+rocket, which he had preserved in the water-proof chest. Darkness now
+hid her from our view; and we sat down, wondering that no answering
+signal had been displayed to our call for succor.</p>
+
+<p>We repaired to our tent with our minds illy reconciled to passing
+another night victims to the insatiable fleas, whose cry still was,
+Blood, blood. All at once we heard the clanking of chains letting<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_73">{73}</a></span> go an
+anchor. All rushed out, and there lay a dark object in the offing. Soon
+we heard the splash of oars; and in a short time Mr. McCrellis, his
+countenance beaming with smiles, stood in our midst. He was accompanied
+by Captain Hillman, originally of New Bedford. His bark had been
+chartered by the American consul to come to our rescue. The next morning
+we bade farewell to rocks, and sand, and fleas, and repaired on board
+the bark, where, for the first time since leaving the Fanchon, I caught
+a glimpse of my sun-burned, swarthy countenance. The poisonous bite of
+the fleas had contributed their share towards imparting to my skin the
+appearance of a person suffering from measles, small-pox, and erysipelas
+combined.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">As</span> you enter the harbor of Payta from sea, the town presents a most
+uninviting appearance. It is built at the base of sand hills. The houses
+have the appearance of mud huts; the roofs covered with tile. Upon a
+nearer approach, not a green<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_74">{74}</a></span> thing can be discovered except the
+balconies of some of the finer houses. The consul, tired, as he said, of
+eternally seeing sand hills and sand-colored dwellings, had relieved the
+monotony of the scene by substituting green paint wherever an
+opportunity presented. At this time the town numbered about four
+thousand inhabitants. They came to an anchor some distance from the
+shore, and were soon surrounded by boats. The English, French, and
+American consuls came on board, each equally desirous of giving us a
+home, and contributing in any way to render our stay with them as
+pleasant as possible. We repaired to the house of the American
+consul&mdash;Mr. Ruden, of New York, who has a mercantile house established
+there. This house is very spacious, constructed upon the Spanish plan of
+architecture, and constructed wholly after the manner of South American
+houses. The whole front of the lower part is appropriated to business.</p>
+
+<p>A wide and pleasant balcony surrounds the entire house at the second
+story. Large windows, and still larger doors, open upon this balcony,
+and render it an airy and delightful residence. From this balcony you
+have a fine view of the harbor, dotted with ships of almost every
+nation. In<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_75">{75}</a></span> addition&mdash;and not a very pleasant auxiliary, to be sure&mdash;are
+multitudes of natives constantly sea-bathing, and frolicking in the
+water. I often wondered if some of them were not really amphibious. Mr.
+Ruden’s household consisted of himself and four gentlemen belonging to
+the firm. All his servants were male natives, and he employed quite a
+number, with a major domo to superintend them. Upon entering the
+spacious parlor, my attention was attracted to the portrait of a lady
+with such a pleasant expression of countenance that I hoped the original
+was not far distant. In this, however, I was disappointed. It was a
+portrait of Mr. Ruden’s mother, a resident of New York city. Mr. Ruden
+was a bachelor; thus again was I deprived of female companionship.
+Eighteen years of his life had been passed in South America, where he
+had amassed quite a fortune.</p>
+
+<p>I often availed myself of the use of Mr. Ruden’s library. In this room
+was suspended a hempen hammock, in which I enjoyed many a delightful
+siesta. The bedsteads were all of polished brass, and very beautifully
+curtained with bright-colored satin. Some of them cost as high as one
+thousand dollars. The pillow-slips and counterpanes were solid
+embroidery, executed by the delicate hands of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_76">{76}</a></span> lovely Spanish
+señoritas. They were placed on the beds over a lining of pink or blue
+cambric, thereby displaying to great advantage the fine needle-work.
+Even the toilet-towels were embroidered at each end a quarter of a yard
+in depth, and then fringed. We breakfasted at ten o’clock, and dined at
+five, <small>P.M.</small> At nine, <small>P.M.</small>, a servant would bring us a most excellent cup
+of tea, which we generally enjoyed seated upon the balcony. Through the
+day we were regaled with all the delicious fruits indigenous to a
+tropical clime, among which were several kinds I had never before
+tasted&mdash;the palta and cherrymoyer. The first-named is shaped something
+like cucumber, and is eaten with pepper and salt. The flavor of the
+cherrymoyer is perfectly delicious. This fruit is about the size of the
+largest kind of Baldwin apple, and very pulpous. The fruit, together
+with the water, and all the vegetables consumed in Payta, and all with
+which the shipping is supplied, is transported across a desert of
+sixteen miles in width, upon mules’ backs, from a town called Piura&mdash;a
+perfect garden of Eden, through which flows a pellucid river. When the
+ladies of Payta visit Piura to refresh themselves with a sight of the
+beautiful in nature, they are transported in a palanquin, which is
+rested upon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_77">{77}</a></span> the shoulders of natives. On the desert there is not a tree
+or shrub to mark one’s course. It is deep sand, from which footprints
+are quickly erased. A pocket-compass is indispensable in crossing.</p>
+
+<p>There was a church near to Mr. Ruden’s house, which I often
+frequented&mdash;at the matin hour, and again at vespers&mdash;to get a view of
+the lovely brunettes, who, with heads uncovered, were kneeling in every
+direction, upon soft mats brought every day by a servant, following in
+close proximity to the señora or señorita. I admire their style of
+beauty. The clear olive complexion; the soul and sympathy which beam
+from their dark, lustrous eyes; their long, black, glossy hair; their
+natural ease, grace, and warmth of manner; the lip so full of sentiment
+and love, that, if the eyes were closed, the face would retain its
+exquisite expression; their vivacity of manner in conversation&mdash;<i>all</i>
+unite to form a lovely and fascinating woman.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the churches are hung with coarse paintings, and engravings
+of the saints, etc., etc. The chancel is decorated with numerous images
+and symbolic ornaments used by the priests in their worship. Gold paper
+and tinsel in barbaric taste are plastered without stint upon nearly
+every<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_78">{78}</a></span> object that meets the eye. When, on festive occasions, the church
+is lighted, it presents a very glittering appearance. The tastes and
+predilections of the priests are totally unlike what one would suppose
+their sacred offices would instigate. I have seen a priest leave the
+church, walk directly to his house, take two fighting-cocks, one under
+each arm, and repair to the scene of cock-fighting, and there spend
+hours in betting.</p>
+
+<p>While at Payta, the United States sloop-of-war Vincennes, Commander
+Hudson, arrived in port. The officers frequently dined with Mr. Ruden.
+By invitation of Captain Hudson, we all dined on board the Vincennes. We
+were welcomed alongside by a salute of twenty-one guns&mdash;a compliment
+usually conferred upon a consul when he visits ships of the line. We
+spent the afternoon most agreeably; and the refined hospitality,
+courteous manners, intelligent and interesting conversation of our host,
+made us regret the rapidly fleeing moments. It was a beautiful moonlight
+eve when we left the Vincennes in the captain’s barge, rowed by those
+men-of-war sailors, dressed with such uniform neatness. Not a ripple
+disturbed the placid and glossy surface of the water. At night so pure
+is the atmosphere, that the moon gives a light<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_79">{79}</a></span> sufficiently powerful
+for the purposes of the reader or student who has good eyesight. There
+is no necessity of burning the “midnight oil;” nature here lights the
+lamp for the bookworm. So phosphorescent is the water, that every dip of
+the oars is followed by a stream of light resembling fire. When we were
+at Payta, we were informed that no rain had fallen during the preceding
+seven years. We met there a friend from whom we had parted on the broad
+Pacific, never expecting to meet again&mdash;Captain McKenzie. Yes! the
+pleasant Scotch captain we left on board the Symmetry. Captain Thompson
+had faithfully fulfilled the stipulation to leave them near the port of
+Valparaiso. From thence he had taken passage in an English steamer bound
+to Panama, and from there he would cross the isthmus, proceed to New
+York, and from there to England. The steamer touched at Payta to remain
+an hour, and Captain McKenzie stepped on shore to have a view of the
+town. Nearly the first persons he saw were Captain Lunt and my husband.
+When he parted from us last, we were bound to San Francisco. Judge,
+then, of his astonishment at meeting them there. He knew at once some
+unforeseen calamity had driven them from their course. From previous
+events his<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_80">{80}</a></span> thoughts naturally reverted to fire; and his first
+exclamation was, “My God! you have been burnt out again!” Too true. All
+was then explained. There they met, at a port neither of them intended
+to visit&mdash;the three captains who had lost their ships by fire. He paid
+me a passing visit at the house, then departed on his way to his distant
+home, to gladden the anxious hearts of wife and children. I have never
+seen or heard from him since. But, whenever my thoughts revert to him,
+the recollection is always flavored with old Scotch whiskey.</p>
+
+<p>The bark Carbargo, Captain Barstow, was loading at Payta for Panama. The
+captain was a native of Pembroke, Mass., and, being acquainted with our
+friends at home, felt quite an interest in our welfare. He very kindly
+offered to give us a passage to Panama. Upon his assuring me he had not
+a cargo of coal, but mules, sheep, and fowl instead, I felt I might
+safely trust myself once more on board another vessel. It was a lovely
+day we bade good-bye to Mr. Ruden and other friends, with whom we had
+passed many pleasant hours during a four weeks’ sojourn at Payta. I had
+changed somewhat in my personal appearance since first I beheld those
+everlasting sand-hills.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_81">{81}</a></span> My wardrobe, too, had been replenished. I was
+really a gainer by my temporary stay at Payta, and departed with a
+lighter heart. Hope seemed to whisper of a cloudless to-morrow. How
+wisely ordered, how characteristic of our natures, to hope on, hope
+ever! When Hope deserts her throne, we are, indeed, like a lost mariner
+without chart or compass.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are again on ship-board; and I have no better business, all
+these long summer days, than to watch those thirty large mules, ranged
+along the deck, fifteen on a side, their heads facing the vessel’s rail,
+with just a path between the rows. They were the finest-looking mules I
+ever saw. The South American mule is larger, as a general thing, than
+the Mexican mule. The captain anticipated realizing a handsome sum for
+them. They were in excellent order, and were blessed with such nice long
+tails, which is considered quite an acquisition. One morning early, I
+heard such a loud talking on deck, and in no very pleasant tones either,
+I conjectured something awful had happened. I soon ascertained the cause
+of the clamor. One of the mules had broken his fastening in the night,
+and, not being discovered, had the extreme audacity to deprive nearly
+all his brother mules of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_82">{82}</a></span> their dearly prized appendages, eating the
+hair square off, up to the fleshy part of their tail. It appears they
+invariably practise this habit whenever they can get them in a position
+where they can make no resistance. The sheep were between decks. The
+heat must have been almost insupportable. They would gather round the
+wind-sail with their noses up, panting terribly. It was not an agreeable
+cargo; yet I had no fears of spontaneous combustion, although I
+afterwards learned there was coal in for ballast.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Upon</span> arriving in the harbor of Panama, we came to an anchor about two
+miles from the city. Ships scarcely ever go nearer on account of rocks.
+It is not a very good harbor for vessels to lie in with safety, it is so
+open. At anchor close by us was the ship Marianna, of San Francisco,
+Captain Rossiter. He recognized my husband as an old acquaintance,
+invited us on board his ship, where he was enjoying the society of his
+wife and an inter<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_83">{83}</a></span>esting little child. Captain Rossiter informed us he
+was going to take his ship down to Taboga, an island which lies about
+ten miles from Panama. The P. M. S. S. Co. have a depot there. All the
+steamers, when in port, lie there. The shipping frequent this place to
+get a supply of water, which gushes in clear rivulets down the sides of
+the mountains. A little steamer plies constantly between Taboga and
+Panama for the accommodation of passengers, who are constantly flocking
+from the miasma-infected city of Panama, to inhale the health-breathing
+zephyrs of this island retreat. The shore is very bold. Ships of the
+largest tonnage lie within a stone’s throw of the shore. Nearly all the
+washing is carried from the city, and here cleansed in the running
+streams by the native women, and spread upon the bushes to dry. At this
+time there were three hotels there, and quite a number of native
+populace. Since the time I allude to, they have been visited by a
+destructive fire. It has been rebuilt, however. We spent one happy week
+here. Daily Mrs. Rossiter and myself wandered up and down the mountain’s
+side, protected from the sun’s rays by the umbrageous foliage which
+formed a complete net-work above our heads. Here grew the cocoa-nut and
+pine-apple. The monkeys<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_84">{84}</a></span> chattered and swung from branch to branch above
+our heads. The parrot and paroquet screamed at us from their leafy
+habitations. Birds of beautiful plumage were carolling their sweetest
+notes, giving to these sylvan mountain-slopes a truly vivifying
+appearance. Here, thought I, in company with loved ones, could I dream
+away a happy existence. The impersonations of romance and solitude could
+scarcely find a more congenial abode than this beautiful and sequestered
+isle. At the expiration of this memory-treasured week, which was,
+indeed, an oasis in the waste over which I had been wafted, we returned
+to an anchor at Panama. That night I was suddenly and severely attacked
+with what was conceded to be, by all, Panama fever of the most malignant
+kind. The next day I was carried on shore, through the city, to a house
+outside the city gates, owned by a gentleman from New Orleans. For the
+use of one furnished room and board, the sum of forty dollars per week
+was required. It was a large, barn-like dwelling. Nearly all the rooms
+were rented to Spaniards. The partitions which divided the house into
+apartments only extended to a height sufficient to conceal the occupants
+from one another, without in the least obviating the noise and
+disturbance naturally<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_85">{85}</a></span> occurring from so many living under one roof.
+Even this tenement, rough as it was, far exceeded, in point of
+cleanliness and healthy location, the crowded, and at that time filthy,
+hotels of the city. Ours was a corner room in the second story, fronting
+the street. Large doors, very much resembling barn-doors, opened from
+two sides of the room upon a balcony, that indispensable appendage to
+all the dwellings situated in tropical climes. Every breath of air which
+fanned my burning brow seemed wafted from a heated furnace. For days I
+lay a victim to that consuming fever, part of the time in blissful
+unconsciousness. I say blissful, because my thoughts wandered to my
+distant home, and I was relieved, for the time being, from the agonizing
+thoughts that in intervals of reason obtruded themselves upon me. I was
+attended by no physician. Captain Rossiter administered dose after dose
+of calomel, until my system was completely prostrated. Well was it for
+me that my knowledge of the Spanish language was so limited; otherwise I
+might have been shocked by the language of some of the inmates of the
+house. Every footfall, every loud word, echoed and reverberated through
+that hollow building, sending, at each recurrence, a pang of agony
+through my burning<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_86">{86}</a></span> brain. Fear, too, would assert her sway when left
+alone, as I oftentimes was. For nearly two weeks the fever raged
+incessantly; after which time, I gradually convalesced.</p>
+
+<p>When raised by pillows in my bed, I had a view of the street leading to
+the rear gates of the city, and day after day could I see the silent
+dead borne to their last resting-place. At that time, Panama was crowded
+with Americans waiting to be conveyed to the gold-studded placers of
+California. Alas! many of the number never reached the goal they so
+ardently desired, and for which they had sacrificed their own happiness,
+and that of those dearer to them than aught else except gold, the yellow
+dust of temptation. Truly it may be said to be “the root of all evil,”
+when it allures thousands from their peaceful homes, to meet an untimely
+death. Reflections such as these had a decided tendency to depress still
+more my already despondent heart. My recovery, at times, was considered
+doubtful. It was too sickly to entertain the idea of remaining there
+longer than was absolutely necessary. I was too weak to attempt to cross
+the Isthmus; therefore, all hope of returning home was abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>It was decided to take passage at once for San<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_87">{87}</a></span> Francisco. We remained
+one month at Panama. During the last two or three days of our stay, I
+walked a short distance each day. One of our walks we extended as far as
+the burying-ground. What a shunned and desolate spot was that American
+burial-ground at Panama,&mdash;a mere necessary receptacle of lifeless flesh
+and crumbling bones,&mdash;not even a stone raised to mark the last
+resting-place of the many loved friends who had breathed their last sigh
+in a strange land, and by strangers been consigned to mother earth! A
+little piece of board was sometimes reared, with the name, age, and
+place of residence, marked thereon; but often this little mark of
+respect and affection had been displaced by mules, numbers of which are
+constantly grazing among the graves. No inclosure protects these often
+nameless mounds; straggling bushes struggle with rank and choking weeds
+that overtop them. The whole place bears a deserted, forsaken
+aspect&mdash;untrodden by the feet of memory and love. It is within sight of
+the bay, whose waters, as they eternally dash against the shore, seem to
+be chanting a requiem for the departed. The evening before we left
+Panama, our attention was attracted by what we conceived to be a
+torch-light procession, issuing from the city gate. Upon a nearer
+ap<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_88">{88}</a></span>proach, it proved to be a funeral cortege. First came several
+horsemen bearing torches; these were followed by a band of music,
+playing very lively, heart-stirring strains; then came an open bier,
+carried by natives, upon which was borne the lifeless remains of a sweet
+little cherub, a lovely Spanish child&mdash;lovely even in death. It seemed
+to be in a sitting posture. In each hand was placed a wax candle;
+wreaths of flowers entwined its angelic brow, and were strewn in rich
+profusion upon the bier. Innumerable wax tapers were inserted around the
+outer edge of the bier, which shed an ethereal halo upon the little form
+of clay, which had so recently been the pride and joy of fond parents.
+Then followed another company of equestrians and pedestrians. It had the
+appearance of some joyous festive scene rather than a funeral
+procession. And, truly,</p>
+
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">“Why should we mourn for the child early called<br></span>
+<span class="i1">From the sin and the suffering of this darkened world?<br></span>
+<span class="i1">Though ties of affection may early be riven,<br></span>
+<span class="i1">Why wish back on earth the dear loved one in heaven?”<br></span>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Oh, how I suffered, while at Panama, for a draught of cold water, to
+allay that feverish, burning thirst which seemed to be consuming the
+very life-blood in my veins! By the time they could get the clear,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_89">{89}</a></span> cool
+water from the gurgling rivulets of Taboga to Panama, it would be tepid,
+and I would turn from it in disgust. Often, in my hours of delirium,
+would I fancy myself at home, travelling again the little school path. I
+would arrive at the running brook which wandered through green meadows,
+and was spanned by a rustic bridge, over which, for twelve happy years,
+our little feet had skipped each day, on the way to and from school.
+Then I would fancy myself leaning far over the grassy brink&mdash;so far, I
+could touch my lips to the transparent surface, and imbibe draught after
+draught of the sparkling liquid. Pleasing hallucination! too quickly
+dispelled by returning reason. In my lucid moments, I was ever thinking
+of the old well at home, and wishing for <i>one</i> drink from the
+“moss-covered bucket.” I felt it would save my life, when all else
+should prove abortive. One who has never been prostrated by fever in a
+burning tropical clime, when it was utterly impossible to obtain ice or
+cool water, can scarcely conceive of the torture and agony endured.
+Every breath of air is a simoom to the sufferer. My principal sustenance
+was the banana and plantain.</p>
+
+<p>We took passage in the steamer Republic for San Francisco. The price of
+our tickets at that<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_90">{90}</a></span> time were six hundred dollars. The Republic was
+commanded by Captain William Hudson, a son of the commander of the
+sloop-of-war Vincennes. He was a lieutenant in the navy, but was then
+enjoying a furlough of four years, which he improved by taking charge of
+the Republic.</p>
+
+<p>I saw nothing of the city of Panama except what met the eye in passing
+through its narrow streets,&mdash;more properly, lanes,&mdash;bounded on either
+side by high, prison-looking buildings, with iron bars in lieu of
+window-sashes. Plenty of naked natives, all eager to carry us on board
+in their bungoes (boats),&mdash;a noisy, wrangling set they were,&mdash;assembled
+there upon the beach. Immediately upon reaching the steamer, I repaired
+to my state-room, and, in an exhausted state, was assisted into my
+berth. I remained in this situation through all the hurry and bustle
+incident to the departure of an ocean steamer, but then was fated to be
+disturbed in a manner I little dreamed of. A lady came to the
+state-room, and very unceremoniously demanded my berth, saying her
+ticket, which she had purchased in New York, called for it. Here was a
+dilemma! The ticket calling for that berth had been sold twice. Captain
+Hudson was called to the rescue. He decided I should not be removed. He<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_91">{91}</a></span>
+had previously been informed of the series of accidents that had
+befallen us on our eventful voyage, and declared, laughingly, that,
+unless routed by fire, I should not be molested. He offered to provide
+the lady from New York with another room; which she obstinately refused
+to occupy, vehemently averring that she would lie upon the cabin-floor,
+and prosecute the company for practising such duplicity. This threat she
+put in execution upon her arrival at San Francisco, and received
+compensation to the amount of several thousand dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Upon getting out to sea, my recovery was visibly accelerated by the
+invigorating sea-breezes and cheerful companionship of our
+fellow-voyagers. I made many pleasant acquaintances, and formed
+friendships which have endured to the present,&mdash;not the fashionable
+friendship of an hour, which dishonor the name, but attachments that
+have stood the test of adversity and misfortunes. The steamer Republic
+had on board four hundred passengers. Thirty out of this number were
+ladies,&mdash;the largest number which, at that time, had been taken on board
+any one steamer to San Francisco. There were but very few of them
+accompanied by their husbands; the remainder were going to meet their
+liege lords, from whom they had been separated,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_92">{92}</a></span> some two years and
+longer. It was very amusing to listen to the various conjectures
+advanced as to the probability of their being recognizable, after being
+for so long a time strangers to the hair-clipping propensity of the
+razor. In those early days of California hair-producing memory, when the
+passion for gold-hunting completely absorbed all other faculties, but
+very little time or attention was expended upon their persons.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer put into Acapulco to coal up. The harbor reminded me
+somewhat of Port Stanley, although it is not quite so completely
+land-locked. The natives swam off to the ship in numbers; while the
+passengers amused themselves by throwing over pieces of money, which, as
+it was sinking, they dove after, and obtained with surprising dexterity.
+They appeared again upon the surface, in an incredibly short space of
+time, with their dark countenances illumined by a grin, illustrative of
+much delight, holding high the hand, and displaying the rescued coin.
+Then they would deposit it quickly in their mouths, and be in readiness
+for another dive. The most successful one was easily detected by his
+protuberant cheeks. To deceive, one of the passengers threw over a
+button. Upon discovering the deception practised, no enticement could
+after<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_93">{93}</a></span>wards induce them to dive after what fell from his hand. Their
+discriminating powers must be very acute to recollect the countenance of
+that gentleman among so many strange faces. We remained nearly one day
+at Acapulco, which most of the passengers improved by wandering through
+the town and its suburbs.</p>
+
+<p>Not having recovered my health sufficiently to endure a tiresome tramp,
+I only saw that part of the town in immediate proximity to the harbor. I
+was very favorably impressed, however. It was the cleanest, neatest,
+most cheerful-looking Spanish town I had ever beheld. Shops of every
+description met the eye, almost bewildering the senses with the
+multifarious display. The cafés at every corner sent out a cheering
+welcome to the olfactory organ; the bazaar was thronged with people
+displaying fruit in all its stages, sufficient, if partaken of, to
+prostrate the whole ship’s company; and the incomprehensible jargon of
+the venders reminding one of (as some express it) “bedlam let loose.”
+Sometimes one feels half inclined to purchase, if for nought else than
+to win one of those irresistible smiles from the señorita in attendance.</p>
+
+<p>Upon entering the harbor, the first thing that met my eye was the ship
+Symmetry, which came<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_94">{94}</a></span> to our deliverance off Cape Horn. She had, after a
+tedious voyage, reached her destination. Capt. Thompson recognized us
+from the deck of the Symmetry, and came on board to see me. He informed
+me his crew were all in the lock-up, and there he intended to keep them,
+to ensure better behavior in future. He looked really care-worn, from
+continued and incessant trials. I pitied him more than I liked him. We
+wondered at his coming to see us. I never saw him more.</p>
+
+<p>Soon we were again steaming our way along the coast to San Francisco.
+One night, we were all startled from our slumbers by the quick ring of
+the fire-bell, and the wild shout of “Fire! fire!” ringing loud and
+clear from the deck. Oh, what a rushing and screaming with the ladies!
+what terrified looks, as they crowded and pushed one another up the
+stairs, in mad haste to gain the deck! It was a scene of terrible
+confusion; in the midst of which I stopped to put on shoes and
+stockings. I say not this to boast of more self-possession or calmness
+in moments of peril than naturally belongs to the sex; but, having been
+so often subjected to the fiery ordeal during that eventful year, I had
+learned to expect it as a matter of course, and was not so startled or
+unprepared by the recurrence of such<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_95">{95}</a></span> an event as those more favored,
+who had recently left pleasant homes, and had encountered nought but
+sunshine. It appeared one of the waiters had gone to the engineer’s room
+(which was upon deck) to draw alcohol from a cask. It ignited by a spark
+from the lamp; the cask exploded, and set fire to the room. The boy
+rushed out in terror, rang the bell, and cried “Fire!” at the top of his
+voice. One of the engineers, who was in bed at the time, was severely
+burned. The greatest confusion prevailed for awhile, after the
+passengers gained the deck <i>en masse</i>. Some sprang to the boats,
+attempting to cut away the lashings, and were only deterred from
+committing this dastardly act through fear of having a bullet put
+through their heads. Several amusing and ludicrous incidents transpired
+also. One man took his umbrella in one hand, and carpet-bag in the
+other, and was caught in the act of jumping overboard. A Jew, who had on
+board goods to the amount of several thousand dollars, was offering them
+to any one for a bid of three hundred dollars, and cash down. The old
+adage, “the ruling passion strong in death,” was here verified.</p>
+
+<p>It was pronounced at once by all the ladies, that I must be the “Jonah;”
+and really I began to think there might be some truth in the assertion.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_96">{96}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> last of April, 1851, after an eventful and tedious voyage, we
+approached the entrance to the harbor of San Francisco, appropriately
+denominated the “Golden Gate.” The entrance is about a mile and a half
+in breadth. The waters of the bay appear to have opened for themselves a
+passage through the elevated ridge of hills next to the shore of the
+Pacific, which rise abruptly on either side of the opening. There is
+always depth of water sufficient to admit ships of the largest size; and
+so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the harbor,
+that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety, in all kinds of
+weather. The harbor is sufficient to accommodate all the navies in the
+world. As the emigrant approaches California from the ocean, Monte
+Diabolo is the first land by which the eye is greeted. It is situated in
+Contra Costa county, sixty or seventy miles distant from Sacramento, in
+a south-westerly direction. According to the best information obtained,
+the altitude of this mountain is about five thousand feet above the
+level of the sea. It stands at the north-western termination of the
+inner coast range, dis<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_97">{97}</a></span>jointed and isolated, and, like most of its bleak
+and sterile companions, is rent by deep fissures and yawning chasms,
+which give it the appearance rather of a cluster of small mountains than
+one ponderous pile. But little is yet known of the geological history of
+Monte Diabolo, or the “Mountain of the Devil.” San Francisco is situated
+on the south side of the entrance, fronting on the bay, about six miles
+from the ocean. The bay, from the city of San Francisco due east, is
+about twelve miles in breadth. A range of high hills bounds the view on
+the opposite side. Between them and the shore is a broad and fertile
+plain, called the Contra Costa. Quite a little village had sprung up
+there, on the shore of the bay, when I last saw the place, called
+Oakland.</p>
+
+<p>Yerba Buena (sweet herb) is an island in the bay, and almost directly
+fronting the city of San Francisco, a mile or so distant. There are
+several small islands in the bay. Opposite San Francisco, on the north
+side of the bay, is a place called Sausolito where, at an early period
+in the history of San Francisco, vessels repaired, preparatory to
+sailing, to take in their water. Now, water-boats are plying between
+Sausolito and the city, affording ample remuneration for the toil. On
+the right<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_98">{98}</a></span>hand side of the bay, as you are approaching the city, is
+situated the Presidio of San Francisco. It consists of several blocks of
+adobe buildings, covered with tiles. The walls of most of the buildings
+are crumbling for the want of care in protecting them from annual rains.</p>
+
+<p>At a distance of a mile and a half from the entrance to the bay, are the
+remains of an old fort. It is fast going to decay, daily threatening a
+complete ruin. The guns are dismounted, and some of them are half
+decomposed from exposure to the weather. When I passed through the
+Golden Gate for the last time, there was in process of erection a
+fortification on one of the bluffs commanding the entrance. Outside, lay
+the wreck of the clippership Golden Fleece; the ceaseless motion of the
+waves chanting a requiem over her remains.</p>
+
+<p>At San Francisco, during the summer and autumnal months, the wind blows
+directly from the ocean, rendering the temperature cool enough in the
+afternoon for woollen clothing, in midsummer. The mornings are usually
+calm and pleasantly warm. About sunset, the wind dies away, and the
+nights are comparatively calm. In winter months, the wind blows in soft,
+balmy breezes from the southeast; the thermometer rarely sinking below
+50 deg.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_99">{99}</a></span> When the winds blow from the ocean, it never rains. When they
+blow from the land it is lowery, and resembles that of the month of May,
+in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The coolness of the climate,
+and briskness of the air, are confined to particular localities on the
+coast; and this description is not applicable to the interior of the
+country, or even to other places on the coast.</p>
+
+<p>Such a hurry, such a bustle, so much excitement! We are nearing the
+wharf at San Francisco. What crowds of men assembled upon the pier,
+ready to rush on board as soon as the steamer is made fast! I almost
+envied those who were going to meet loved friends. We knew none, to give
+us a cheerful greeting, in that city of strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, a lady who was accompanied by her husband, and myself seated
+ourselves upon deck, to witness the meetings. So many joyful tears were
+shed, such heartful embraces! Fathers caressing little ones they had
+never before seen; they in turn frightened half out of their wits at
+finding themselves in the arms of such frightful objects. Sometimes we
+could scarcely repress the tears at witnessing some affecting scene; at
+others, constrained to laugh outright at some really ludicrous sight.
+One delighted husband said, “Why<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_100">{100}</a></span> don’t you kiss me, Bessy?” She stood
+gazing at this hirsute representation of her better half in utter
+astonishment; then timidly ejaculated, “I can’t find any place.” “Oh!”
+said Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, sportively, “they will all get a kiss but you and me.”
+Almost instantly a gentleman sprang to her side, cordially greeting her,
+and even bestowing a kiss. I was almost stupefied at such audacity, for
+at first she seemed not to recognize him. Soon the air of astonishment,
+and even of alarm, resigned its place upon her countenance to the glad
+smile of recognition. He was an old friend, whom she had not seen for
+years. He thought he recollected her countenance; then the sound of her
+voice confirmed his preconceptions. I felt greatly relieved when I found
+it was not the custom in California for the gentlemen to kiss all the
+ladies they fancied, whether acquainted or not.</p>
+
+<p>My husband and myself, by invitation of the captain, concluded to remain
+on board that night. He insisted upon our occupying his room in his
+absence, as business called him ashore. “Everything,” said he, “is at
+your disposal, except my tooth-brush.”</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, upon going ashore, my husband met a cousin of ours, who
+was residing in Happy<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_101">{101}</a></span> Valley. He came immediately on board, and
+insisted upon our going at once to his house. This cordial invitation we
+at once accepted. Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;had emigrated to California in 1849, and
+there married.</p>
+
+<p>How unique to me seemed everything in San Francisco, when first I paced
+its sandy streets leading to Happy Valley! They were building up the
+water-lots rapidly. The old ship Niantic, of Boston, seemed quite up
+town. Upon the deck of this condemned ship was reared quite an imposing
+edifice, bearing the signature of the Niantic Hotel. Streets were
+extended far beyond it, bayward. The interstices between some of these
+streets were not yet filled. I grow dizzy even now, thinking about it.
+In our haste to reach Happy Valley, and avoid, as far as lay in our
+power, those interminable sand-hills, it was proposed to cross one of
+those interstices on a hewn timber, which, at least, must have been
+nearly one hundred feet, and at a height of twelve feet, I should think,
+from the green slimy mud of the dock. I succeeded pretty well, until
+about halfway over, when, finding myself suddenly becoming very dizzy, I
+was obliged to stop, get down on my knees, and hold on to the timber. I
+was afraid to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_102">{102}</a></span> proceed, lest I should fall into the mud and water below,
+and, for the same reason, unable to retrace my steps. After much crying
+on my part, and coaxing and scolding on the part of the gentleman, I
+succeeded in reaching the terminus of the timber. That was my
+introduction into the town of San Francisco in 1851.</p>
+
+<p>Upon leaving, three years afterwards, I traversed that same locality. It
+had become the richest business part of the city. There were nicely
+paved walks, bounded on either side by massive granite and brick
+structures, an ornament to the city&mdash;the pride and the glory of the
+energetic pioneers, representatives from every state in the Union.</p>
+
+<p>Very soon after our arrival occurred the largest conflagration ever
+recorded in the annals of San Francisco. The memorable fire of the 3d of
+May, 1851, will ever be remembered by all residents of the place at that
+time with feelings of pain and commiseration. Oh! it was a night of
+intense suffering to hundreds of human beings. We were startled from our
+slumbers between the hours of eleven and twelve, by the to me familiar
+cry of “Fire!” My first thought, upon awakening, was, “I am on terra
+firma, I can run.” Fires, at that time of paper-and-cloth-architectural
+memory, raged with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_103">{103}</a></span> astonishing rapidity. Whole streets were swept away
+in less time than it would occupy to relate the events arising from the
+sad catastrophe. We were in Happy Valley, situated at that time at the
+extreme end of the town, towards Rincon Point. The fire originated as
+far in an opposite direction. Therefore people were all rushing towards
+Happy Valley, as a place offering protection.</p>
+
+<p>The streets were full of drays, rushing along with breakneck speed, to
+deposit goods and all kinds of merchandise in any possible place of
+safety. What rich bales of silk, and fine clothing, were tumbled
+topsy-turvy into hastily made excavations in the innumerable sand-hills
+around the valley. Some were depositing valuables in the few (what were
+then supposed to be) fire-proof buildings, which had been erected at
+considerable expense. Often buildings were on fire before the inmates,
+in their consternation, could find an article of clothing; and they
+would rush into the crowded street in their night-clothes, nearly
+distracted with the deafening shouts of the excited multitude. The wind
+seemed to blow fiercely. The insatiable flames came roaring and rushing
+onward, darting its thousand-forked tongues of fire far up into the
+midnight sky. The fire companies, what few there<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_104">{104}</a></span> were, were prompt and
+energetic in action; but even <i>they</i> were driven from their posts of
+duty, and their life-sacrificing efforts rendered abortive.</p>
+
+<p>In one instance, a company, with their engine, were driven to the verge
+of a wharf by the fiery pursuer. Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; and myself were standing
+upon the door-step, witnessing with trembling hearts its nearer approach
+and nearer. It was heart-rending to witness the distress of delicate
+women, driven from their homes at midnight, with no protection from the
+chilly winds but their night-clothes, lamenting, not their own fate, but
+the uncertain fate of those near and dear to them, who were combatting
+with the fiery elements for the preservation of life and property. Oh,
+it was a sad spectacle! Yet, even amid it all, might be seen some
+heartless person divesting himself of his own soiled apparel, to be
+replaced with new, purloined from some pile of ready-made clothing. How
+much of value, that night, the dishonest ones appropriated to their own
+use!</p>
+
+<p>Still nearer came the flames, until only one block of buildings
+separated them from the Oriental Hotel. That once on fire, and no human
+power could save Happy Valley. All the engines were brought to play upon
+this block, which was owned by Mac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_105">{105}</a></span>ondry, and by him occupied as a
+warehouse. The bravely-fought struggle was viewed with varying emotions
+of hope and fear. At length the never-ceasing powers of man conquered.
+They succeeded in arresting the progress of the fire king, and the
+little hamlet of Happy Valley was preserved. At early dawn, we visited
+the scene of the fire. It would require a more graphic description than
+could ever emanate from pen of mine to do justice to the scene of
+destruction there presented. Lifeless bodies, literally burned to a
+cinder, wholly unrecognizable by nearest relatives, lay near to the
+walls of the half-demolished brick structure. They had fled to this
+building as a place of safety, thinking it to be, what all considered
+it, fire-proof. The flames raged around it with unresisting fury: the
+heat became very intense. The occupants vainly endeavored to effect an
+egress. One poor fellow rushed to remove the heated bolts, and actually
+burned all the flesh from his hands before effecting his object. Then he
+was seen to rush frantically forth into the flames, stagger, turn, and
+run a little way in an opposite direction&mdash;then fall. He was dragged
+from the flames by some daring, humane hand, and his life preserved;
+although he was maimed and crippled, and rendered blind, for life.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_106">{106}</a></span> I
+saw the poor being afterwards, and heard him relate the painful story.
+The scenes I witnessed that day might wring tears from a heart of stone.
+Men who, a few short hours before, were worth thousands and hundreds of
+thousands, now sat weeping over the ashes of their once splendid
+fortunes. Some who were not possessed of sufficient self-command and
+fortitude to meet and brave life’s severest trials, had sought
+consolation for every woe in the intoxicating cup; others sat, the
+images of mute despair, their grief too profound to permit a tear or
+sigh to escape as a mitigation of their deep-seated sorrow; some had
+already commenced fencing in their lots, although the smouldering ashes
+emitted an almost suffocating heat. These hasty proceedings were at that
+time expedient, to prevent their lots from being jumped; for these were
+the days of squatter memory, when possession was nine-tenths of the law.
+We were in pursuit of Mr. and Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;. With her I had formed a close
+intimacy on board the steamer. Her husband, previous to the fire, was
+established in a lucrative business, but who had now shared the fate of
+all. Where was Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; and her little daughter Nelly? They were
+obliged to run in their night-clothes. <span class="pagenum"><a id="page_107">{107}</a></span>Mr. B&mdash;&mdash; deposited two or three
+trunks of their most valuable clothing in one of those fire-proof
+buildings, and, of course, they were burnt, leaving them nothing which
+they could call their own out of their once abundant supply. Mrs.
+B&mdash;&mdash;that night sought and found protection at an hospital kept by a
+friend of hers, a doctor from New York. The building was situated upon
+the summit of one of the many hills which surround the city, and about a
+mile from where she had lived. This distance she ran, without even shoes
+or stockings, almost dragging her little girl along, who was so
+terrified as to be almost incapable of supporting herself. After
+learning her whereabouts, I hastened to see her, and found her, where
+she was obliged to remain for the time being, in bed. I supplied her
+with a few articles of clothing from my limited wardrobe; but she being
+a much taller person than myself, we were really at a loss how to make
+her appear respectable, unless she would consent to make her debut in
+Bloomer costume. “Necessity is indeed the mother of invention;” and,
+after some crying, and a good deal more laughing, we had her equipped
+for a promenade. Then Nelly was released from “durance vile;” but it
+would have puzzled wiser heads than ours to have designated her costume.
+Poor child! how she lamented the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_108">{108}</a></span> fate of all the nice things which she
+had brought from home! This was her first great grief. The proposition
+was made to us from Mr. and Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, to go to housekeeping in company
+with them, and take boarders. No time was to be lost: after a fire in
+California was the time for immediate action. That day we found an
+unoccupied house, a little over the ridge of the hills.</p>
+
+<p>The owner of this domicile had gone to the States; the agent for which
+was also absent in the mines. Therefore, our husbands had the audacity
+to take quiet possession; and, before night, we were duly installed in
+our new house. Perhaps some of my readers may have the curiosity to know
+how we so readily furnished our intended boarding-house, while nearly
+the entire city was in ruins. Well, in the house we found two bedsteads,
+with a miserable straw bed upon each; quite a good cooking-stove, with a
+few appurtenances attached; a pine table, constructed of unplaned
+boards; and old boxes, in lieu of chairs. Dishes, knives and forks, and
+spoons, we had picked up from the heterogeneous mass of half-consumed
+rubbish upon the former site of Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;’s store. But, at such a time
+as that, if one could get anything to eat, he never stopped to see if
+his fork was blessed with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_109">{109}</a></span> one prong or three; and, if the knife was
+minus a handle, it was just as well, provided the blade was good. And
+then, too, a person was not particular about enjoying the luxury of both
+cup and saucer, if at any time there were more people than dishes. The
+next day, our husbands secured us as many boarders as we could
+accommodate with meals: a lodging they sought elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>We were to receive twelve dollars per week for board. Don’t laugh: that
+was cheap board, when you take into consideration the exorbitant price
+of provisions. For butter we paid one dollar and a half per pound; beef
+steak, twenty-five cents per pound; and all else in proportion.
+Vegetables were sold by the pound, and dearly sold, too. I never
+prepared a meal, but what I thought of the old woman who had but one
+kettle in which to cook everything. We made coffee in the tea-kettle
+mornings; and, at night, made tea in the same.</p>
+
+<p>There was a well of water at some distance from the house, near the foot
+of the hill; and, oh, what a deep one it was! The bucket, which would
+contain two pailfuls, had to be drawn to the top by a windlass. The
+united exertions of Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; and myself were scarcely sufficient to
+bring it to the top. Oh, how we have laughed, and tugged, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_110">{110}</a></span> laughed,
+until we could tug no longer, over that old well! Our husbands were
+busily engaged at the store-lot clearing and fencing it, and erecting a
+temporary building, to be in readiness to receive a fresh supply of
+goods which was daily expected to arrive, and which, fortunately for Mr.
+B&mdash;&mdash;, had had a longer passage than usual. Our boarding-house in San
+Francisco will never be forgotten; and, when reverted to, will
+invariably call up a smile, even if we are entertaining those provoking
+imps, the blues. Many times since, I have met some of those boarders at
+the tables of fashionable hotels; in which case, I was sure to receive
+some compliment in reference to the good dinners they had eaten from the
+old pine table, minus the tablecloth. The proceeds derived from keeping
+this boarding-house was decidedly insufficient remuneration for the
+amount of physical labor expended. We concluded, therefore, to seek our
+fortunes in some inland town, and nearer the mines, and perhaps at the
+mines.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_111">{111}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">About</span> seven weeks from the time of our arrival in San Francisco, we
+found ourselves on board one of the river steamers bound to Marysville.
+I parted with regret from Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;. We had lived, and laughed, and
+suffered together <i>so</i> long, it was hard to separate. We met once
+afterwards, for she travelled many weary miles to visit me. Little
+Nelly, too&mdash;how I loved that child! I can see her now, in imagination,
+with her sparkling eyes and rosy cheeks, tugging along a handful of
+burnt wood for “mother to cook with.” Those were hard days for Nelly and
+Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;. Since then, Mr. B&mdash;&mdash; has amassed a splendid fortune. I
+wonder if Nelly will ever forget those days in which she was sent out
+gleaning sticks of wood and pieces of burnt boards, with which to make
+the kettle boil.</p>
+
+<p>The upper division of the bay of San Francisco is called the Suisun.
+Situated upon the strait connecting the two divisions, is the town of
+Benicia, on the north, and the pleasant little hamlet of Martinez, on
+the south side. How sunny and pleasant looked the valleys bordering on
+the bay! the luxuriant growth of wild oats therein affording excellent<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_112">{112}</a></span>
+pasturage for the numerous herds of wild cattle roaming over the
+country. Soon we found ourselves entering the noble Sacramento. The
+river, at intervals, is fringed with timber, chiefly oak, sycamore, and
+willows. Grape-vines, and a variety of shrubbery, ornament its banks.
+The quiet, peaceful stillness which pervades all nature, as you are
+ascending this stream, has an ineffable charm, a sort of fascination, to
+the beholder. The boat stopped a short time at Sacramento city. How very
+low and flat the town appeared, in point of locality, compared with San
+Francisco,&mdash;not a single hill to relieve the eye! It presented one
+feature peculiar to all California towns at that day&mdash;a great deal of
+canvas pre-eminently conspicuous, in the shape of buildings, with signs
+attached, competing, in point of size, with the buildings which they
+graced.</p>
+
+<p>In some places the river is nearly half a mile in width. It makes some
+very graceful bends. The land bordering on this magnificent stream is
+very low, and subject to inundations, which is a serious impediment to
+the advancement of agriculture, to which the soil is admirably adapted.
+Three years afterwards, when sailing down this majestic stream, I
+witnessed with delight many spots of this river<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_113">{113}</a></span>side wilderness, made to
+“blossom as the rose” by the indomitable energy and unconquerable
+enterprise, in opposition to every discouragement, of the successful
+pioneers. I often wished, as some spot lovelier than another met the
+eye, that it had been my lot to have found a home in just such a sunny
+spot, far away from the noisy strife of the busy, bustling world. But I
+must not tarry too long on thy bosom, noble Sacramento, but leave thy
+allurements and beauties to be chronicled by some abler pen than mine,
+and hasten up stream to the point where Feather River, one of the
+largest tributaries of the Sacramento, unites her limpid waters with
+those of her sister river.</p>
+
+<p>With the name of Feather River the early Anglo-Californian associates
+the commingled sentiments of many a pleasure and pain. The rich tributes
+of gold which rewarded his toil could not compensate for the saddened
+yearnings of the heart. All that he loved on earth were far away from
+him; his condition was hazardous in the extreme; no friend, perhaps, was
+near with a solace; and, but for the inspiriting unction of a constantly
+indulged hope, even the <i>future</i> would have been desolate and dreary.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer turns her prow to the right, and is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_114">{114}</a></span> gracefully cutting her
+way through the waters of Feather River. I kept constantly upon deck to
+inhale the balmy air, and to look out upon the lively and ever-changing
+landscape. Sometimes the trees would crowd the bank to the very brink;
+some gracefully bending to kiss the water; some rearing their stately
+heads high above, but stretching their wide arms over its margin; all
+faithfully mirrored far down in its glassy depth, though sometimes the
+reflections were partially obliterated, and sometimes, for a moment, the
+<i>whole</i> was shivered into trembling fragments by the transient breeze
+that swept the surface too roughly, and the widely extended ripple from
+the wake of the steamer.</p>
+
+<p>There were on board several distinguished persons, who proposed a visit
+to Capt. Sutter’s ranch. This delightful residence is situated on the
+left bank of Feather River, as you are proceeding up stream. Visitors of
+distinction are landed at the foot of his garden. The steamer runs in
+close proximity to the bank fronting his dwelling. They usually give him
+a salute after landing visitors. Sometimes an answering salute is given
+from a mounted cannon standing in the centre of his garden. Near to it
+is erected a tall flag-staff. The dwelling-house is constructed of adobe
+brick, repre<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_115">{115}</a></span>senting the Dutch style of architecture. It is completely
+embowered with shrubbery, and creeping, flowering vines. A more definite
+description of the grounds adjoining will be given hereafter, when I
+shall have visited the place, and from personal observation endeavor to
+interest the reader by delineating the beauties surrounding this lovely
+retreat of the noble-hearted old general. Captain Sutter, or, rather,
+General Sutter, as he is now titled, is a native of Switzerland, and was
+at one time an officer in the French army.</p>
+
+<p>He emigrated to the United States, and was naturalized. From thence,
+after a series of romantic incidents, he located himself in California,
+in the midst of numerous and hostile tribes of Indians. With a small
+party of men, which he originally brought with him, he succeeded in
+defending himself until he erected his fort. Several times, when
+besieged by hostile foes, he has subsisted upon grass alone for many
+days.</p>
+
+<p>The land bordering upon Feather River is more elevated than that
+bordering upon the Sacramento. Soon, far ahead, is discernible the
+dividing line in the water, where the muddy waters of the Yuba River
+mingle with the deep, blue, translucent current of Feather River.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_116">{116}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The banks of the Yuba, at its junction with Feather River, are romantic
+in the extreme. There is a thick growth of trees bestudding the banks,
+and dipping gracefully into the stream; the branches of the taller
+uniting overhead, and forming a leafy canopy, almost entirely excluding
+the rays of the sun from the smoothly gliding current. The beautiful
+weeping-willows fringing the margin, the creeping vines twining their
+tendrils around the trunks of the trees, and the variety of shrubbery,
+give it a decidedly tenebrious appearance, and keep the eye of the
+traveller, who gazes from the deck of some one of the numerous steamers
+plying the stream, constantly occupied in tracing the variety of
+features which this and similar views are constantly presenting.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance above the cove-shaped entrance to the Yuba River, and
+at the head of steamboat navigation, is situated the town of Marysville.
+At the time I first saw it, the sun was just gilding the tops of the
+little canvas stores surrounding the plaza. This little square seemed
+literally swarming with people, who had gathered around the landing.
+Some had resorted thither from motives of idle curiosity, to gaze at the
+people as they stepped ashore, hoping, perhaps, to recognize the form
+and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_117">{117}</a></span> features of some friend from their far-off homes. Others were drawn
+to the spot in the hope of acquiring accessions to their already
+well-filled hotels. The draymen, too, were on the spot, ready to take
+your baggage anywhere and everywhere. Their importunities were as
+unceasing as those of our hackmen at city depots and steamboat wharfs.
+Their style of conveyance was rather more primitive than comfortable.
+However, I was seated upon my trunk on a dray, ready to be drawn to any
+one of the first-class houses, which were enumerated as follows: the
+United States, Oriental, Tremont, St. Charles, etc. My husband decided
+that we should go the United States, and thither we were accordingly
+taken.</p>
+
+<p>I was perfectly delighted with the appearance of this little inland
+city. Every little collection of canvas stores and dwellings in
+California were denominated cities. Marysville, at that time, boasted of
+several large frame buildings, among which were the above-mentioned
+hotels. It was ranked the third city in regard to size and improvements
+in Upper California.</p>
+
+<p>It is useless to attempt to convey to the minds of any, except those who
+were pioneers to California, the unique appearance of those little
+bustling,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_118">{118}</a></span> business localities, in convenient proximity to mining
+districts. Such trains of pack-mules as were constantly departing (so
+heavily laden, I pitied the poor beasts from my heart) on their long and
+tedious journeys to far-distant mining regions. There, too, is seen the
+swarthy Mexican vaquero, mounted on his fleet Californian steed,
+galloping through the street, “all booted and spurred;” and oh, what
+spurs!&mdash;enough to make one cringe when they see them driven so
+mercilessly into the reeking sides of the poor beast. Then the mule and
+horse auctions at the corners of the streets, drawing together a
+motley-looking set of fellows, rough and uncouth in appearance, but
+possessing, nevertheless, noble hearts, ready hands, and, I have no
+doubt, well-filled purses, with which to assist a fellow-sufferer. I
+lived long enough in California to learn from experience never to judge
+a person by his apparel. The coarsest garb often covered the warmest
+hearts; the most sun-burned, heavily-bearded physiognomy often concealed
+the most intellectual features; for all classes had flocked
+indiscriminately to the gold regions of California.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of our arrival, there was a travelling theatre to open for
+the first time in Marysville; and a mounted horseman was galloping<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_119">{119}</a></span>
+through the streets, announcing, at the top of his voice, the programme
+of the evening’s performance. After supper, being somewhat fatigued from
+the journey up river, I retired, but not to sleep. Such a din and
+confusion as was kept up in the street! A bowling alley and gambling
+house on the opposite side of the way each contributed their share to
+the babel-like confusion, that seemed to reign triumphant. Our room was
+situated in the front part of the building, the only access to which was
+from the balcony; and the only way of admitting any air into the room
+was by leaving open the door, which served the double purpose of window
+and door. Sometime in the night, we were aroused by some person moving
+about the room. I was terribly frightened, thinking, of course, it was
+some robber or assassin. My husband accosted the intruder with “Halloa!
+what do you want here?” The reply was, “I am coming to bed! what
+business have <i>you</i> in my bed? Come, vamos!” and, in the mean time, he
+was making preparations to strike a light. Said my husband, “There is a
+lady here; <i>we</i> occupy this room. Now leave instanter, or I will assist
+you.” He started to the door, muttering, “I will see the landlord about
+this; if there was not a lady here, I would see who the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_120">{120}</a></span> room belonged
+to.” As soon as he left, my husband shut and locked the door, and we
+were left unmolested, to smother until morning.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed, upon inquiry, that our room had been previously occupied by
+two brothers. Upon our arrival, the house being crowded, and one of the
+brothers absent for a few days, the landlord had proposed to the
+remaining one to resign his double bed for a single one, in order to
+accommodate us. The absent brother returned late in the night, and the
+bar-keeper, through negligence or ignorance, omitted to inform him of
+the change; and thereby I was frightened half out of my wits at this
+midnight intrusion.</p>
+
+<p>Ladies were very scarce in Marysville; at this time there were not more
+than half a dozen, at the most, who were deserving of the appellation.
+Comparatively speaking, there were no children. I had lived there more
+than a year before the merry voice of childhood gladdened my ears. There
+were no churches, no school-houses. All were intent upon the one great
+object that had lured them so far from their native land. There were
+assembled representatives from every clime and country on the face of
+the globe. The European, the Asiatic, the African, the Anglo-Saxon, the
+Sandwich-Islander,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_121">{121}</a></span> all, whose general interests and pursuits were so
+varied, had here convened for one and the same purpose&mdash;to get gold. No
+law was acknowledged except Lynch law; and the penalty for offences, so
+summarily enforced by the vigilance committees, served admirably to keep
+in check the murderous, villanous propensities of too many of the
+refugees from justice from all parts of the world. Alas! many of them
+had found a shelter in the almost inaccessible fastnesses of the
+mountains, remote from the regular settlements, and beyond the reach of
+organized vigilance committees. In the solitary recesses of the Sierra
+Nevada were little clusters of men, with nothing but the trees, and
+perhaps a little canvas tent, for shelter, and <i>no</i> protection but their
+own strength and vigilance, possessed of large amounts of gold, where
+there was no eye to see, and no agent to pursue, the guilty. It was not
+strange, where the temptation was so great, that robbers and assassins
+were ever ready to pounce upon the unwary.</p>
+
+<p>Board at the United States Hotel at that time was four dollars per diem
+for the single person; therefore, with our limited means, we could
+remain here but a short time. The Tremont Hotel had been recently
+erected, and I learned the proprie<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_122">{122}</a></span>tors would like to find an American
+lady to superintend the domestic department. I presented myself, and
+obtained the situation. I was to receive one hundred and twenty-five
+dollars per month. In the interim, my husband was looking about,
+undetermined what business to engage in. We stopped at the Tremont five
+weeks, at the expiration of which time, my husband rented the Atlantic
+Hotel, and thither we removed. This was in July. The heat was intense,
+the thermometer ranging from 90 to 110 deg., not only day after day, but
+week after week. How I watched in vain for a cloud in the horizon! but
+not one appeared for months, to mitigate the scorching fervency of the
+heat.</p>
+
+<p>While stopping at the Tremont, I witnessed what to me was a novel sight;
+and if, kind reader, you will pardon the digression, I will endeavor to
+relate, in a manner which I hope will interest, the method of taming a
+wild horse. The first I saw was an unusual collection of people, and in
+their midst a horse blindfolded, with a Mexican vaquero in the act of
+mounting. When once seated on the back of these wild, fleet animals of
+the plains, it is next to an impossibility to unhorse them. From the
+nature of their pursuits and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_123">{123}</a></span> amusements, they have brought horsemanship
+to a degree of perfection challenging admiration, and exciting
+astonishment. All things being in readiness, the blinder was removed.
+The horse, for the first time in his life feeling the weight of man upon
+his back, with distended nostrils, eyes glaring like orbs of fire, and
+appearing to protrude from their sockets, gave a succession of fierce
+snorts, performed sundry evolutions which would have puzzled the master
+of a gymnasium to have imitated, and then dashed off at a furious rate,
+seemingly determined to free himself from his captor, or die in the
+attempt. It was an exciting and cruel sport to witness. The reeking
+sides of the poor beast were covered with foam and blood, which had been
+drawn by driving those merciless spurs into the flesh. Both horse and
+rider would disappear for a few moments in some distant part of the
+town, then reappear again, dashing madly on. Finally, the horse, in
+passing the Tremont Hotel, which was all thrown open in front to admit
+air, sprang, quick as a flash, upon the piazza, and dashed madly into
+the bar-room. In making his ingress so suddenly, the Mexican’s head had
+been forcibly struck against the top of the door, and he fell stunned to
+the floor. The inmates of the bar-room, number<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_124">{124}</a></span>ing about twenty, fled in
+every direction. The bar-keeper, a very corpulent person, made his
+egress through a small back window&mdash;<i>so</i> small, that, upon ordinary
+occasions, he would never have had the presumption to attempt it, as it
+was actually endangering his life by so suddenly thrusting his portly
+figure through so small an aperture; but now, out of two evils, he was
+constrained to choose the least. The horse, finding himself in
+undisputed possession of the room, stood for an instant surveying
+himself in an extensive mirror suspended behind the long marble slab.
+Then, prompted by an irresistible desire to become better acquainted
+with the image reflected in the glass, or possessing the principles of
+teetotalism to such an extent that he was bent upon immediate
+annihilation, he dashed furiously at the bar, upsetting it, and dashing
+the splendid mirror into a thousand pieces, demolishing the elegant
+cut-glass decanters, while the contents ran profusely upon the floor. He
+also dashed to pieces several large arm-chairs, valued at twelve dollars
+apiece. Then he passed through a side-door into a large saloon,
+traversed that without doing any material damage; and, when in the act
+of leaving the house, the Mexican, who had, in the meantime, recovered
+his senses<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_125">{125}</a></span> and his feet also, sprang with surprising agility upon his
+back, and the race for freedom again commenced; but this time not of
+long duration. The horse, reduced almost to prostration, yielded to the
+superior power of man, and was taken, more dead than alive, to a stable,
+rubbed down, placed in a stall, fed, and petted; and, from the hour in
+which he unwillingly relinquished a life of freedom, never more to roam
+with a wild herd over broad plains and flowery vales, he was a gentle,
+submissive slave. The wild horse is gracefully formed, with flowing tail
+and mane; but I never saw one very fat&mdash;they race their flesh off. The
+man who owned the horse readily paid the expenses of refitting the
+bar-room. The amount of property he destroyed was at that time estimated
+at a thousand dollars.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> Sierra Nevada Mountains and the coast range run nearly parallel with
+the shores of the Pacific. The first are from one hundred to two hundred
+miles from the Pacific, and the last from fifty to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_126">{126}</a></span> sixty. The valley
+between them is the most fertile portion of California. Marysville is
+situated in this valley, about twenty miles in a south-westerly
+direction from the low hills of the Sierra Nevada; which form, as it
+were, the lower steps of an immense gigantic flight, terminating upon
+the summit of a range of mountains which would not suffer in comparison
+with any of transatlantic existence.</p>
+
+<p>North of the city of Marysville is a plain of several miles in extent.
+This flat expanse is dotted with evergreen oaks, the shape and foliage
+of which, previous to minute examination, present an exact resemblance
+of the apple-tree. When it was impossible to procure apples at any
+price, or even after they were as low as fifty cents apiece, when
+enjoying a walk upon the plains I would be constrained, in opposition to
+my knowledge to the contrary, to look under the trees, wishing I could
+only find <i>one</i> apple, it would have tasted so sweet.</p>
+
+<p>In a westerly direction from Marysville are situated the Butte
+Mountains, which present a singular appearance. They constitute one of
+the sublimest features of California scenery, rising as they do abruptly
+from the level plain which extends for miles around them. There are
+three high elevations, which, seen from a distance, might be aptly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_127">{127}</a></span>
+compared to three mountain islands, rising from the surface of the
+ocean. It is said that, standing on the top of the Butte Mountains in a
+clear day, with a telescope in hand, Monte Diabolo can be plainly seen:
+the space lying between is nearly three hundred miles. Feather River
+forms the western boundary to the city limits. The Yuba River opposite
+the plazza is wider than at any other place. When bank-full, I should
+judge it to be nearly three hundred yards in width. In the dry season,
+it is fordable for teams; and there is also a ferry across the river.
+The most of the city at first was built around the plazza, which is less
+elevated than the plain which extends back. Since then, owing to
+frequent inundations of the plazza, from which residents sustained
+material damage, they have removed most of the business houses to the
+upper part of the city. Marysville, I think, following the course of the
+river, is about two hundred miles, and perhaps two hundred and fifty,
+from San Francisco. The first rains there usually fall in November, and
+last until May. As soon as the ground becomes moistened, the grass, and
+other hardy vegetation, springs up; and, by the middle of December, the
+landscape is arrayed in a robe of fresh verdure; the plains, which,
+during the dry<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_128">{128}</a></span> season, had assumed the appearance of the streets, now
+present a perfect carpet of green, as far as the eye can see. Beautiful
+flowers spring up spontaneously in every direction, gladdening the
+vision with their variegated and gorgeous colors, and, I wish I could
+add, rendering the air redolent with perfume; but, although so beautiful
+to the sight, they possess very little fragrance, if any.</p>
+
+<p>Deep gullies that intersect the country, and which during the dry summer
+appear as if they never saw a drop of water, now become the channels of
+rapidly rushing streams. So much do they resemble rivers, that I heard
+one novice, who made his first appearance at this season, inquire,
+pointing to one of these sloughs, “Do they catch salmon in that river?”
+Some of them are deep and miry. Teamsters, who have attempted to ford
+them, have sometimes lost their lives in the attempt. When these sloughs
+are very much swollen by heavy rains, all communication with the country
+back is cut off. The season for sowing grain commences as soon as the
+ground is sufficiently moistened to permit of ploughing, and continues
+until March. There were some fine ranches along the banks of the Yuba.
+The bottom lands are very rich and productive, yielding an excellent
+harvest of wheat,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_129">{129}</a></span> oats, and barley. Vegetables grow to an enormous
+size, and surpass in flavor any I ever before tasted. I never dreamed of
+seeing water-melons grow to such a size as I saw them here. Recollect,
+now, I only state facts. I saw one water-melon sell for twelve dollars:
+it was sold by the pound. It was the first year any had ever been raised
+in Upper California. Mr. Briggs, who raised them, told me that that
+year, from the sale of his melons alone, he realized twenty thousand
+dollars. Is it to be wondered at that miners who had been subsisting
+one, two, and perhaps three years, upon pork and beans, and ham, varied
+occasionally by a repast of flap-jacks and molasses, and once in a great
+while get a sight of a potato, should be eager to possess themselves of
+a water-melon, at any price? No one except those who were miners in the
+early days of gold-hunting can conceive of the hardships, the sacrifices
+of the necessaries of life, and sometimes of life itself, they were
+subjected to&mdash;perhaps nearly starving, with thousands of dollars’ worth
+of gold-dust in their possession. What will not a man suffer for gold?
+The first winter I passed in California proved to be the rainiest I ever
+afterwards experienced; yet that would scarcely compare with the winter
+of 1849.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_130">{130}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I must confess I never before saw it rain (I should say pour) so
+unceasingly for such a length of time,&mdash;a week, perhaps, every day and
+night, and sometimes longer; then the sun would shine out quite warm for
+a week; then rain again. The mud in the streets was perfectly awful to
+behold, but much more awful to find yourself sinking into the miry
+depths. The rain in the valley was snow in the mountains; and, forty
+miles from Marysville, the snow might be ten feet deep or more, while in
+the city it would be sufficiently warm to sit with the windows open.
+When the dry season commences, then farewell to green grass, bright
+flowers, and everything pertaining to the beautiful, and prepare
+yourself to be suffocated with dust and sand, debilitated by the
+oppressive heat, and devoured by myriads of fleas. All this, and much
+more, you must endure, if you remain in Marysville through the summer.
+But, if not engaged in business, you can flee away to the mountains, and
+in some sequestered vale enjoy the lovely scenery, the cool spring
+water, inhale the invigorating mountain air, and, for exercise, climb to
+the summits of the mountains, timbered with large pines, firs, and
+cedars, with a smaller growth of magnolia, manzanita, hawthorn, etc.,
+etc. Notwithstanding the heat is so intense<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_131">{131}</a></span> during the dry season, the
+atmosphere is so pure that meat, when left exposed to the sun, never
+spoils; and, after one of those excessively hot days, the nights are
+extremely pleasant and comfortable. I never saw a night in California
+when I was deprived of refreshing slumber on account of the heat and
+oppressive atmosphere. I have known laboring men at work there digging
+cellars, when the thermometer in the place where they were at work would
+rise to 125 deg.; and yet those people could endure to work there, day
+after day, when, to work in such hot days in our climate, and with the
+sun striking directly on their heads, would have caused sickness, or
+even death.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed so strange to me, after one of those hot days, not to see any
+appearance of a shower, not the slightest film of vapor in all the vast
+azure vault.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the smaller houses were constructed of zinc. A lady who occupied
+one positively averred that the sides of the house were so hot, that she
+had only to place her dough, when she was going to bake bread, in close
+proximity to the wall, where the heat was sufficient to cook it. These
+zinc shanties were all abandoned before the summer was half spent. They
+were positively more like ovens than dwellings.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_132">{132}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There is but little disease in the country arising from the climate. On
+some of the rivers, where vegetation is rank, and decays in autumn, the
+malaria produces chills and fever, which sometimes, when neglected too
+long, proves fatal.</p>
+
+<p>The soil and climate of California is peculiarly adapted to the culture
+of the grape. The delicious richness and flavor of the California grapes
+nothing of the fruit kind can equal. The cactus grows spontaneously in
+California, and some of the inclosures are hedged in by this plant,
+which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against
+man and beast. The stalks of some of the plants are of the thickness of
+a man’s body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. One of the most
+serviceable of the California plants is the soap-plant. The root, which
+is the saponaceous portion of the plant, resembles the onion, and
+possesses the quality of cleansing linen equal to any soap.</p>
+
+<p>The wild animals of California are the wild horse, elk, black-tailed
+deer, antelope, grisly bear, beaver, otter, cayote, hare squirrel, and a
+variety of other small animals. The interior lakes and rivers swarm with
+myriads of wild geese, ducks, and other birds; the pheasant and
+partridge are numerous in mountains.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_133">{133}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superior
+to that of California. I have known people in the country who have been
+exposed much of the time to great hardships and privations, sleeping
+most of the time in the open air, and never suffering the first pangs of
+disease, or the slightest indications of ill-health. California is rich
+in mineral productions of all kinds.</p>
+
+<p>Wheat, barley, and other grains, can be produced in the valleys without
+irrigation. Oats grow spontaneously, and with such rankness as to be
+considered a nuisance upon the soil. I have seen acres of these growing
+so high as to almost hide the cattle feeding among them. The oats grow
+to the summits of the hills, but not so tall as in the valleys. All the
+variety of grasses which cover the country are heavily seeded, and, when
+ripe, are as fattening to the stock as the grains with which we feed our
+stock in this country. Nearly all the fruits of temperate and tropical
+climates can be produced in perfection in California.</p>
+
+<p>The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom
+they are descended. The native Californian is almost constantly on
+horseback, and, as horsemen, excel any I have seen in other parts of the
+world. The Californian saddle<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_134">{134}</a></span> is the best that has ever been invented
+for the horse and rider. It is scarcely possible to be unseated by any
+ordinary casualty. The bridle-bit is clumsily made, but so constructed
+that the horse is compelled to obey the rider, upon the slightest
+intimation; the spurs are of immense size. With his horse and trappings,
+serape and blankets, a piece of beef, and he is content, as far as
+personal comforts are concerned. His amusements consist of the fandango,
+game of monte, horse-racing, and bear and bull-fighting; and a very
+exciting sport among them is the lassoing of wild cattle. They are
+trained to the use of the lasso (riata, as it is here called) from their
+infancy. A vaquero, mounted on a trained horse, and provided with a
+lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing. Selecting an
+animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the
+horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle.
+During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which usually are
+very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse
+in such a position that the fury and strength of the beast are wasted,
+without producing any other result than his own exhaustion. The animal,
+soon ascertaining that he cannot release himself from the rope, sub<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_135">{135}</a></span>mits
+to be pulled along to the place of execution. Arriving here, the vaquero
+winds the lasso around the legs of the animal, and throws him to the
+ground, where he lies perfectly helpless and motionless. Dismounting
+from his horse, he then takes from his leggin his butcher-knife, which
+he always carries with him, and sticks him in the throat. The daring
+horsemanship, and the dexterous use of the lariat, usually displayed on
+these occasions, are worthy of admiration.</p>
+
+<p>The native Californian ladies lack the clear, olive complexion so much
+admired in the pure Castilian; but they are equally as animated in
+conversation, and their dark eyes flash with all the intelligence and
+passion characteristic of the Spanish woman. There are few things more
+beautiful than their manner of salutation.</p>
+
+<p>Among themselves, they never meet without embracing; but to men and
+strangers on the street they lift the right hand to near the lips,
+gently inclining the head toward it, and, gracefully fluttering their
+fingers, send forth their recognition with an arch beaming of the eye
+that is <i>almost</i> as bewitching as a kiss. They dance with much ease and
+grace: the waltz appears to be a favorite with them. Smoking is not
+prohibited in these assemblies, nor<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_136">{136}</a></span> is it confined to the gentlemen.
+The cigarita is freely used by the señoras and señoritas; and they puff
+it with much gusto while threading the mazes of the cotillon, or
+swinging in the bewitching waltz. The cigarita is not without its powers
+of fascination in the lips of a lovely woman, even rivalling the use of
+the fan as an appliance of coquetry.</p>
+
+<p>In Marysville were assembled women from all parts of the world; and I
+assure you it was an interesting study to watch the different natures,
+dispositions, tastes, pursuits, manners, and customs of these fair
+representatives of distant climes. But among them all, the Yankee women
+stand preëminent, so far as regards principle, industry, and economy,
+and, as a general thing, are as often sought after for companions for
+life by the opposite sex as those who can claim preëminence in mere
+personal attractions, and are destitute of the more sterling attributes,
+so essential to prosperity and happiness through the varied phases of
+real life.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_137">{137}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">I will</span> now give you a sketch of our hotel-keeping in California. My
+husband rented the Atlantic Hotel, which was not a very spacious one,
+for two hundred and twenty-five dollars per month. For our cook we paid
+two hundred and fifty per month, our steward one hundred and
+twenty-five, and for all other assistance in a similar proportion.</p>
+
+<p>The house was always filled to its utmost capacity; and the prospect of
+future success was flattering in the extreme, provided I had strength
+given me to sustain the weight of care and labor necessarily devolving
+upon me. Often, on account of exorbitant demands from servants,&mdash;demands
+which could not reasonably be granted,&mdash;I would be compelled to work
+early and late, for days and weeks in succession. Not having been
+accustomed to living and working in such excessive heat, my system
+became debilitated; I felt my strength gradually yielding to excessive
+weakness; and, in a little less than three months from the time we went
+to the Atlantic, I was seized with a fever. For weeks I lay very sick.
+My physician pronounced my recovery hopeless unless removed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_138">{138}</a></span> from the
+hotel, where, of necessity, so much confusion prevailed. Consequently, I
+was removed to a little canvas shanty, which my husband had previously
+purchased, placed upon a straw bed, and for more than two months I was
+confined to that pallet of straw.</p>
+
+<p>The dimensions of the lot upon which this shanty was erected were one
+hundred and sixty by eighty feet. It was represented to be an excellent
+location, destined to be soon in the heart of a big city. My husband
+paid four hundred dollars for the place; and, as an evidence of the
+sudden and enormous rise of real estate in California, where there was
+the least prospect of a city rushing into existence,&mdash;for in that
+country cities have no state of infancy,&mdash;I will here add, that, three
+years afterwards, this same lot, with the addition of a better building,
+though not an expensive one, was valued at twelve thousand dollars, and
+could have been disposed of quickly for that sum. During the two months
+that I was prostrated by sickness, my sufferings were intense, both
+physical and mental. Doctors at that time were charging five and eight
+dollars a visit. The state of the country was such, it was almost
+impossible to procure the comforts of life, unless one was possessed of
+a fortune.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_139">{139}</a></span> Eggs were seven dollars per dozen; milk, one dollar per
+quart; and, for six weeks, I was not allowed to eat any thing except
+boiled milk. Our income had ceased when we sold out the hotel. Every day
+my disorder was growing worse, and our funds were growing less. The
+sides of our little shanty were constructed of rough clapboards, not
+very nicely matched; in some places, you could put your hand through the
+interstices. The roof was canvas, and miserably old at that. The front
+part of this domicile could boast of a few boards, which served as an
+apology for a floor. Old boxes and trunks served in lieu of chairs. When
+I was able to sit up, there was no chair to sit in. My husband procured
+one at Sacramento,&mdash;quite an inferior cane-seated rocking-chair,&mdash;for
+which he paid the exorbitant sum of twelve dollars. That was the first
+and only chair which ever graced our miserable abode. My bed and even
+pillows were of straw; and oh, how hard they seemed to my poor and
+emaciated frame! for I was reduced to a mere skeleton. At times, when
+the fever raged, how grateful I should have been for one drop of cold
+water. All the water with which the city was supplied was taken from the
+Yuba River. It was quite warm, and rendered<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_140">{140}</a></span> far from clear by the
+mining operations which were carried on at the bars above. The painful
+sickness which chained me for so many weeks to a sick bed was
+superinduced by drinking too freely of this muddy water.</p>
+
+<p>In close proximity to our dwelling was a second-class boarding-house,
+from which, especially at night, issued discordant sounds of noisy
+revelry, mingled with angry bickerings. All this was peculiarly trying
+to one whose nerves were wrought to the utmost tension. When nights I
+would be left alone for hours together, I suffered inconceivably from
+fright. When my husband would go out, he would lock the door upon the
+outside; for I was too feeble to rise from the bed without assistance,
+and far too timid to remain alone with the doors unfastened. Every fresh
+burst of uproarious mirth or frightful anger issuing from the contiguous
+building would send a thrill of horror through my veins. Oh, how my
+thoughts, during those lonely nights, would wander to my home! How my
+heart yearned for the soothing words and kind attentions, so
+soul-cheering when emanating from the sympathetic bosoms of
+disinterested and tender friends! All this was denied me. I had formed
+no female acquaintances in this place. There was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_141">{141}</a></span> no one to come and
+smooth my hard pillow, or utter cheering, consoling words. The present
+was dark and dreary, with no bright star beaming through the murky
+horizon of the future. One day I was no less pleased than surprised at
+the appearance of a lady in my room, whose benevolent, pleasant
+countenance plainly implied peace, hope, and happiness. She introduced
+herself as Mrs. S&mdash;&mdash;, recently from Cincinnati. Her residence being
+near, she had accidentally heard of my situation, and had visited me for
+the express purpose of rendering any assistance in her power. No kind
+mother could have been more attentive to the wants of a loved child,
+than was Mrs. S&mdash;&mdash;to mine through the remainder of my sickness. She had
+her own family to attend to; yet every day she found time to visit me,
+and minister kindly to my wants. How anxiously I watched for her coming!
+and when I would hear her light footstep, and listen to the gentle
+accents of her sweet voice, I could only acknowledge her presence but by
+tears. She was a messenger of peace and love, a truly pious and
+exemplary woman, and, during my residence in Marysville, ever remained
+my firmest friend. She prospered in Marysville; and may kind Providence
+<i>ever</i> shower His richest blessings upon this truly Christian lady!<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_142">{142}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>About this time the country was unusually agitated. The villanies
+practised and murders committed by an organized band of cut-throats, of
+whom the notorious mountain robber, Joaquin, was the chief, had excited
+the horror, and aroused the vengeance, of the entire populace of Upper
+California. No effort had been spared to capture him, dead or alive;
+but, with the perfect adroitness of an accomplished scamp, he ever
+eluded and bid defiance to pursuit by mounting some one of the many
+fleet steeds at his command, and fleeing to the almost inaccessible
+fastnesses of the mountains. His path was ever stained with human blood.
+A reward of one thousand dollars for the apprehension of Joaquin,
+offered by Governor Bigler, was still further increased by the sum of
+three thousand added to it by the Chinese. These people are industrious,
+economical, and timid. It was ever the policy of Joaquin and his
+associates to prey with particular severity upon the Chinese. Frequent
+thefts were committed in their camps; and, when resistance was
+attempted, they were butchered with a heartless cruelty, becoming the
+sanguinary nature of the murderer and outlaw. When suddenly surprised,
+he would boldly face his enemies, and receive their bullets on his
+breast, which glanced or were flat<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_143">{143}</a></span>tened by a coat of steel worn
+underneath his clothing.</p>
+
+<p>All Spanish countries have their guerillas and ladrones; but a feature
+of this kind, precipitated into American communities, and attended with
+such unparalleled atrocities, without the power of the people to avenge,
+was something astonishingly rare indeed. California was not the place of
+his birth, and he could not, therefore, have had any national jealousies
+because of the occupancy of the country by the Americans. He seemed to
+murder merely for the love of the sport, and to rob because it was a
+life of excitement, requiring great risk in its accomplishment, and
+yielding large profits when attended with good luck. But his career of
+villany was limited; and, when he least expected it, he was seized upon
+to expiate his crimes by an ignominious death. But I am anticipating.
+One night, I was excessively alarmed by an unusual commotion about the
+town. Ringing of bells, galloping of horses, groups of people rushing
+past, talking fiercely,&mdash;all conspired to confirm the belief in my mind,
+that the vigilance committee were about to execute summary punishment
+upon some guilty offender. I awoke my husband: he dressed himself as
+quickly as possible, and issued forth to ascertain the occa<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_144">{144}</a></span>sion of so
+much noise. Locking the door after him, he walked away to join the
+throng of people collected around a large hardware store at the corner
+of the street. He was gone so long, I feared some accident had befallen
+him. What agonizing doubts I was a prey to while lying in suspense in
+that little shanty! It was a long time before he returned. He finally
+came with the intelligence that Joaquin, with several of his
+accomplices, were encamped about three miles out from Marysville, at a
+place called the Sonorian Camp; and that Sheriff Buchanan, in attempting
+to surprise and capture him, had been shot.</p>
+
+<p>A few days previous to this, the citizens of Marysville and vicinity had
+been horribly shocked by the announcement in their midst of a cruel
+murder, perpetrated on the road between Hansonville and Marysville. A
+citizen of Marysville had carried a load of goods to Hansonville, and
+disposed of them for the sum of fifteen hundred dollars. On his return,
+he was pursued and overtaken by some Mexicans, supposed to be of
+Joaquin’s band, lariated and drawn from his wagon, and mangled in a
+horrible manner. On the same day, a passenger wagon was intercepted, and
+every passenger murdered; even the horses’ throats were cut. And now
+this last<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_145">{145}</a></span> deed had aroused the spirit of revenge in the breast of every
+one capable of carrying arms.</p>
+
+<p>The particulars of the affair were these: That night, a little Mexican
+boy, who resided at the Sonorian Camp, prompted by feelings of revenge
+for a punishment that day received, came to the sheriff, and revealed
+Joaquin’s place of concealment. Buchanan, eager, doubtless, of achieving
+unparalleled renown by capturing this notorious robber chieftain, with a
+select few hastened to the spot designated by the boy. In their march,
+they were compelled to step over a fallen tree lying immediately in
+their path. They had no sooner planted their feet upon the trunk of the
+tree, when a dozen armed men sprang to confront them, and discharged
+their revolvers in their faces. The consternation of the sheriff and his
+party was universal. Those of the number who were not so disabled as to
+prevent escape, beat a hasty retreat. Among these was Buchanan. He had
+not fled many paces, when he received a mortal wound, as he supposed,
+which brought him to the ground. He was dragged along by his companions
+to the Sonorian Camp, where a litter was procured, upon which he was
+transported to his home in town. Three or four hundred of the
+inhabitants armed themselves with fire-arms<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_146">{146}</a></span> from the hardware store
+above alluded to, and proceeded to the ambuscade of the terrible robber
+chief. My husband departed with the troop, previously locking me into
+the little shanty; for I dared not remain for an instant, in such
+exciting times, with the door unfastened. For fear he would not return
+in the morning before the heat became too oppressive for me to bear, he
+raised a window in the room, and dropped the curtain. Then I was alone,
+a prey to my gloomy fancies. Every noise I heard, I fancied was from
+some terrible Mexican effecting an entrance through the window, and, in
+imagination, could already discern the swarthy, murderous visage, and
+detect the sharp, glittering blade of the assassin’s knife. The memory
+of that night, even now, is accompanied with a shudder. Soon daylight
+began to dawn, and with the shades of night vanished all my fears. I was
+so weakened by sickness, that, like a child, who is naturally prone to
+superstition and fear when alone in the dark, the sufferings I endured
+that night were similar. The forenoon crept on apace, and yet that band
+of armed men had not returned, I knew, by the silence which reigned in
+the streets. As I lay, wishing my husband would return, the
+window-curtain parted suddenly, and one of the ugliest-looking faces
+was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_147">{147}</a></span> thrust into the room I ever beheld. At first, I was nearly
+paralyzed with terror; then, recovering my faculties, I exclaimed, at
+the top of my voice, “Vamos! vamos!” Knowing him to be Spanish by his
+look, I addressed him in his own language; yet, feeling that was not
+sufficiently expressive, I added, by way of effect, a few English
+invectives, which fell <i>very</i> harmlessly upon his uncomprehending ear. I
+have often since been amused at the recollection of the amount of
+courage displayed in words, when I was so entirely helpless and
+imbecile, as far as action was required. He very leisurely reconnoitred
+the apartment, cast a look commingled of scorn and pity upon me, turned
+upon his heel, and disappeared. What was the object of this visit of
+espionage, I never could conjecture. About noon, my husband returned.
+The party had been unsuccessful in the pursuit; had caught glimpses of
+the retreating party several times, but they had finally eluded pursuit.
+The people returned chagrined and discomfited to their homes, to hear,
+in a week, of other murders still more atrocious. The sheriff was alive
+at noon, but no hopes were entertained of his recovery, as the ball, to
+all appearance, had entered his side, and passed out at the breast. His
+friends stood around the bed, momentarily expecting him<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_148">{148}</a></span> to breathe his
+last; still he lived on. His physician concluded to probe the wound, and
+found that the ball, upon entering, had struck a rib, glanced and
+followed the rib around, and passed out in front. In a few days he
+recovered his health, resumed his official duties, and continued them
+long after that.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, how happy I felt when I could walk out once more! Distinctly do I
+recollect the first day I left the shanty for a walk. I went the
+distance of a square to visit my kind friend Mrs. S&mdash;&mdash;. Upon my return,
+I found a dear brother whom I had not seen for two years and more. Oh,
+the joy of that meeting! Words would inadequately express my feelings.
+Only one month had elapsed since he bade adieu to home and friends,
+laden with so many messages of love; and now here he was, beside me,
+repeating what father, mother, brothers, sister, had said such a short
+time ago. It seemed as if I had been transported to the dear old home;
+had met the family assembled around the hearth-stone, and together we
+had spoken sweet words of counsel and of love. The night succeeding his
+arrival, we sat and conversed together until daylight began to dawn, we
+had so much to say&mdash;<i>I</i> so many questions to ask; <i>he</i> so much to
+relate. He was very much shocked to see me looking so much like<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_149">{149}</a></span> a wreck
+of my former self. Sickness and trouble&mdash;yes, <i>such</i> trouble as rankles
+deepest in the heart of a wife, compared with which, death would have
+been joy&mdash;was fast doing its work.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Soon</span> after my brother’s arrival, I received a visit from my esteemed
+friends, Mr. and Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; and Nelly. During their stay, we visited
+Yuba city, situated about half a mile from Marysville, on the opposite
+bank of Feather River. It may not be amiss to state, that Yuba city,
+with the exception of three or four houses, has been removed to
+Marysville. There is, however, an Indian rancheria existing there, which
+draws many visitors to the spot. We started, one bright morning, in a
+two-horse team, to visit the rancheria. It was proposed to ford the
+stream. Accordingly, we started for the ford. The banks of the river are
+quite precipitous; and, as we descended the steep slope, and saw the
+wide, rolling river below, we felt (Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; and myself) as though we
+would rather never see an<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_150">{150}</a></span> Indian rancheria than stem the swiftly
+rushing current; but soon down we went with such a rush, we could not
+tell where we were until the water around our feet caused us to suspect
+we were really sinking. The river proved to be higher than our driver
+anticipated, or the wagon not as high, and by the means we reached the
+opposite bank a wetter, if not a wiser party.</p>
+
+<p>An Indian rancheria consists of a number of huts, constructed of a
+rib-work or frame of small poles, or saplings of a conical shape,
+covered with grass, straw, or tule, a species of rush, which grows to
+the height of five or six feet. The huts are sometimes fifteen feet in
+diameter at their bases, and the number of them grouped together vary
+according to the number of the tribe which inhabit them. The Indians are
+generally well made, and of good stature, varying from five feet four
+inches to five feet ten, with strong muscular developments. Their hair
+is long, black, and coarse; and their skin is a shade lighter than that
+of a mulatto. It is universally conceded that the California Indians
+possess but few, if any, of those nobly daring traits of character which
+have distinguished the savage tribes of the Atlantic States, from the
+days of King Philip down to the notorious Billy Bowlegs.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_151">{151}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The extreme indolence of their nature, the squalid condition in which
+they live, the pusilanimity of their sports, and the general imbecility
+of their intellects, render them rather objects of contempt than
+admiration. They are deficient in all those manly arts which have given
+measurable immortality to the Cherokees. They have none of the invention
+of the Sioux, Pottawatamies, or other north-western Indians, and are
+outwitted by the cunning even of the “Tontos,” whose own self-applied
+vernacular assigns no higher rank in aboriginal tradition than that of
+<i>fools</i>.</p>
+
+<p>They place entire dependence on nature’s bounty for support. If the crop
+of acorns fails, or the mountain streams send not forth their usual
+schools of fish,&mdash;snails, worms, roots, and insects, furnish food with
+which they appease the gnawings of hunger. There is a kind of grass in
+the valleys the Indians eat, that is pleasant to the taste and
+nutritious. In the season of this grass, I have seen numbers of them all
+out feeding like cattle. The children all go naked. This grass has a
+tendency to increase their ordinary dimensions; and you will often hear
+it remarked, as one makes his appearance, “There comes a little
+grass-fed.” We saw them making their acorn bread (parn they call<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_152">{152}</a></span>
+bread). To render it short and rich, they mashed up angle-worms, and put
+in it. After baking it,&mdash;which they did by making an excavation in the
+earth, and building a fire therein; when the earth was sufficiently
+heated, they scraped out the ashes, put in the bread, and covered it
+over with hot ashes,&mdash;they generously insisted upon our eating a piece.
+The keenness of our appetites was considerably repressed, however, by
+witnessing the several employments of the tribe. One old squaw was
+relieving her husband’s head of a score of vermin, which she ate with an
+apparent relish. She practised, however, the principle of
+self-abnegation to perfection, by occasionally tossing some of the
+finest-looking ones down his throat, for which he smacked his thanks
+with apparent zest. The hair on the heads of the chiefs is all drawn up,
+and tied in a knot on the top of the head, and ornamented with feathers.
+The squaws’ heads look like pitchmops; the hair is very thick, coarse,
+and black, and cut square round the head. No part of the forehead is
+visible; the hair falls to the eye-brows. They have jet-black eyes; and
+some of them have a decidedly pleasant expression with the eye. The
+little babies are beauties. Their mothers learn them to swim, as soon as
+an old duck does her<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_153">{153}</a></span> young. They build little pens at the brink of the
+river, so that the current cannot carry them down stream, put them in,
+and keep them there half the time. They are really amphibious. They have
+a cruel custom of piercing the ears of their infants, and inserting
+sticks the size of the little finger. During the process of thus
+beautifying their infants, the whole side of the head and face is
+terribly swollen, and the child must suffer inconceivably; but better
+for them to die in the operation than to live in opposition to the
+prevailing mode.</p>
+
+<p>The longevity of the race is proverbial. We saw some who looked more
+like mummies than living beings. They bring them out of the huts, and
+set them in the sun, days; and there we saw them sitting, their eyelids
+drooping so you could not perceive the eyeball, limbs perfectly
+motionless, and so shrivelled and black as to be absolutely repulsive to
+the sight. Some of their limbs are affected with a loathsome cutaneous
+disease.</p>
+
+<p>When one of their number dies, they consume the body by fire, grind the
+bones to ashes; then the near relations mix these ashes with pitch, and
+daub their heads and faces with it, as a badge of mourning. During this
+process, and for several consecutive days and nights, they keep up a
+loud<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_154">{154}</a></span> hooting and howling, and render night hideous with their mournful
+lamentations. They have large gatherings sometimes at their rancherias,
+to celebrate some event; then dancing and singing, loud shouting and
+howling, is continued without intermission the whole night. During these
+orgies, the noise made by them is such as to prevent sleep, although a
+quarter of a mile distant. Their council-chamber is of sufficient
+capacity to accommodate three hundred persons; the entrance to which is
+an aperture of just sufficient size to admit a man’s body when bent
+double. In the centre of the roof is another small aperture; and, except
+by these two openings, no air or light can be admitted. They perform
+their singular dances in this place. Often Americans go there to witness
+these sports; but a few moments’ confinement in such a close place
+generally suffices. From their burrowing propensities, these Indians
+have derived the name of “Diggers.”</p>
+
+<p>Their mode of costume almost defies description, it is so omnifarious.
+Sometimes they imitate the style adopted by our first parents in
+Paradise. The women are especially delighted to get on a man’s shirt, in
+which they will parade the streets apparently as pleased with themselves
+as any fashion<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_155">{155}</a></span>able belle when sporting the most costly fabric. I was
+once exceedingly amused at the sight of an Indian and his squaw
+promenading the street, dressed à la mode. He sported a pair of boots,
+and an old, faded piece of calico over his shoulders, as an apology for
+a serape. She was dressed in a red flannel shirt, over which she had
+drawn an old black satin sack, which some one had given her, or which
+she had stolen. Over their black heads was elevated a shattered
+umbrella, and her arm was placed within his. Immediately in advance of
+them were walking a very fashionably dressed gentleman and lady. The
+countenances of the “Digger” and his mehala (an appellation given to the
+squaws) were illuminated with a grin expressive of much delight,
+entertaining, no doubt, the satisfactory belief that they were equally
+as much admired by observers as those in advance of them, whose motions
+and walk they were vainly endeavoring to imitate. They are inveterate
+gamblers; but I think it would puzzle wiser heads than mine to
+understand their games. They appear to place some value upon money, with
+which they gratify their gambling propensities. They flock in numbers
+into the back yards of hotels, and greedily devour all the offal
+destined to be thrown to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_156">{156}</a></span> hogs. Sometimes you can induce them to cut
+a few sticks of wood; but, as a general thing, they are too indolent to
+exert themselves much.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers abound in excellent salmon, which the Indians spear in great
+numbers, and dispose of in the towns. They are the finest I ever tasted.
+Some of them are three and four feet long, and weigh fifty pounds or
+more. It is amusing to see the Indians spearing them. They stand in the
+river on rocks or shoal places, looking intently into the water with the
+spear elevated, waiting, perfectly motionless, for a sight at one.
+Instantly the spear descends, and, as sure as it does, it buries itself
+in the body of the fish. Their aim is unerring.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">At</span> this time my husband was engaged in transporting goods to the towns
+above Marysville. He kept his horses in a shed at the rear of our
+dwelling. One night we were aroused by the cry of “Fire!” Upon opening
+my eyes, the room was as light as day. It appeared as if the whole city<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_157">{157}</a></span>
+was in a blaze. The flames were rapidly spreading. Those light wood and
+canvas buildings offered but slight resistance to the fiery element. Our
+first thought was of the horses and wagon, as they were of more value
+than the house, or all it contained. They were given into my charge,
+with instructions to lead them away out on the plains, and hold them
+there, while they remained to throw what few things we possessed into
+the wagon, and drag it off. The most valuable article in the house was
+my side-saddle, for which was paid the sum of sixty-five dollars. That,
+in their haste, was forgotten, and left in the house. I had petted those
+horses so much, they would follow me anywhere. They stood perfectly
+quiet beside me, apparently watching with me the progress of the fire. I
+expected, of course, our little shanty had shared the fate of half the
+buildings of the place. After the fire had subsided, we returned to
+town; and there, sure enough, stood the little house unharmed, while all
+on the opposite side of the street lay a heap of ruins. In one week from
+that time, very nearly the same scene was enacted over again.</p>
+
+<p>This time, too, the canvas shanty welcomed us back again to town. Had it
+been of any value, perhaps it would have shared the fate of its
+neigh<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_158">{158}</a></span>bors; but, valueless as it was, it looked better to me upon my
+return than a mass of smoking ruins in lieu. What oversights a person
+will commit when alarmed, or agitated by the cry of “Fire!” One of these
+nights I dressed myself hastily, put on my dress (which fastened in
+front) hind-side before, and fastened every hook securely. Of course, I
+never discovered my mistake until I returned to the house. Soon after
+this, my brother left for the mines. When the rainy season commenced,
+our house was a poor protection from the rain. It ran through the canvas
+roof as through an old sieve. We soon vacated it, and went to the
+Oriental Hotel. This building my husband rented for the sum of six
+hundred dollars per month, furniture included. It was a spacious new
+building, at that time the finest in the place. Our expenses were
+eighteen hundred dollars per month. We employed three cooks. To our head
+cook we gave three hundred per month, and all the other domestics in a
+like proportion. To one little boy, not much higher than the table, who
+was employed to wait upon the cooks, clean knives and forks, bring in
+wood, etc., we paid the exorbitant sum of sixty-five dollars per month.
+Notwithstanding our expenses were so much, the net profits were ample.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_159">{159}</a></span>
+We had twenty and twenty-five dollars per week for board. The house was
+always crowded. While we were at the Oriental Hotel, the city was
+inundated. Oh, that was indeed a gloomy time! A vast amount of property
+was destroyed, and some lives lost. The sudden melting of the snow in
+the mountains swelled the mountain streams to rushing torrents. The most
+intense excitement prevailed in Marysville, as the Yuba River, swollen
+to its utmost capacity, was still rapidly rising. What a wildly rushing,
+roaring, foaming mass of water came thundering on! Higher and yet higher
+it came, until the plaza was fairly submerged. Trucks were rushing to
+and fro, laden with merchandise being conveyed to the upper part of the
+city. Many objected to leaving their houses, thinking the water would
+abate, until they were obliged to make their egress through the windows,
+and in boats were taken to dry land. The Oriental fronted on quite high
+land. At the back was a large basement, where was situated the culinary
+department, also the servants’ apartments. All this part of the building
+was entirely submerged, and the water lacked but a few inches of being
+to the first floor. Night was coming on, and the water was still rising.
+Fear and anxiety sat enthroned upon the counte<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_160">{160}</a></span>nances of all. A short
+time previous to this, there had been erected on the plaza two brick
+blocks. The water undermined the foundation of these buildings, and that
+night they fell with a terrible crash. It is almost impossible to convey
+to the minds of those not present any correct idea of the gloomy aspect
+of affairs during the inundation. Towards morning, the waters ceased to
+rise any higher, yet did not subside in the least. A man residing on a
+ranch about five miles above Marysville, in attempting to save some
+cattle from drowning, was swept from his horse by the force of the
+current, and was borne down stream with astonishing rapidity. He managed
+to keep his head above water, but was unable to clutch at anything
+whereby he might save himself. As he neared the landing at Marysville,
+all the latent energy of his being was aroused to save his life, as that
+would be his last chance. There was a large steamer lying there, made
+fast to the big tree on the plaza. Any one who has visited Marysville
+will recollect this venerable tree. Some of the earliest pioneers to
+this place recognize it as an old friend, under whose protecting arms
+they have for many nights sought a shelter. With almost superhuman
+exertions, he caught hold of one of the paddle-wheels of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_161">{161}</a></span> steamer,
+and maintained his position until rescued by some people who had seen
+him struggling in the water.</p>
+
+<p>Feather River, too, overflowed her banks, and, in a south and westerly
+direction from Marysville, nothing could be seen but one unbroken sheet
+of water. Many of the smaller houses were washed down stream. One
+couple, living on a ranch twenty miles from Marysville, on the bank of
+Feather River, and far from any other habitation, were driven for safety
+to the top of a table. As the water rose higher, they were obliged to
+rise higher. It was a little bit of a shanty. They knocked a hole
+through the roof, and crept out thereon. They soon found they must vamos
+from there; so they embarked in some sort of a craft (tub or barrel),
+and paddled off to a little island. After congratulating themselves upon
+their miraculous escape, they found they were not the only occupants of
+this island retreat: a big grisly bear had preceded them. Not relishing
+such close companionship as he seemed inclined to offer, they quickly
+beat a retreat to a large tree, and, seated in its topmost branches,
+carefully guarded by “Old Bruin,” they passed twenty-four gloomy hours.
+When assistance arrived from a neighboring ranch, in the shape of a boat
+well manned, it<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_162">{162}</a></span> was Bruin’s turn to beat a retreat, which he did. The
+frightened, hungry couple were released from their perilous situation.</p>
+
+<p>My brother had returned from the mines, and was living upon a ranch on
+the banks of the Yuba. He swam his horse quite a distance to save a
+woman and child. When he arrived at the shanty, they were perched upon a
+table, calmly awaiting their fate.</p>
+
+<p>The boats were sailing in every direction about the city; and all
+through the night could be heard the shrill cry of “Boat, ahoy!”
+resounding far over the waters. All night long, on the opposite side of
+the Yuba, sat a Spaniard on the ridge-pole of his house, at one end,
+while, at the other end, was a big rat, each anxiously expecting relief.</p>
+
+<p>Very gradually the waters began to subside; but it was a week before the
+city was passable at all. One small house which was washed down stream,
+and lodged some distance below, the owner afterwards recovered; and,
+after placing it upon its original site, he corralled it, for fear of a
+similar accident.</p>
+
+<p>We kept the Oriental four or five months; but the numerous cares
+devolving upon me were too wearing for my constitution. Could I have
+been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_163">{163}</a></span> relieved from so much anxious solicitude, we should have remained
+in the house longer. Now the rainy season was nearly over, we returned
+to our little shanty.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">About</span> this time, in company with my brother, I took a journey a distance
+of eighty miles up the Sacramento River. The whole distance, the route
+lay through the most beautiful valley of which imagination can conceive.
+It was the season for flowers, and in every direction the most beautiful
+floral blossoms met the eye. Oh, the beautiful ranches (farms we should
+call them) that were situated on the banks of this magnificent stream!
+We passed some fields of wheat, containing five hundred acres in one
+inclosure. We forded numerous streams which intercepted our course. We
+saw herds of antelope bounding gracefully from our path. To some we got
+sufficiently near to see their clear, bright, shining eyes. Their
+graceful symmetry of form, their agile, sylph-like motions, all combine
+to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_164">{164}</a></span> render them one of the most beautiful animals in the country. The
+fawn of the American deer, if captured before the pretty white spots
+upon its sides have disappeared, will follow its captor anywhere, if he
+will first carry it a little while in his arms. They are the perfection
+of grace, innocence, and confidence. Probably there is no wild animal
+more susceptible of domestication, when taken young, than the American
+deer.</p>
+
+<p>We saw, too, the elk, in large numbers. Once, as we were approaching a
+stream, there were several drinking therefrom. As soon as they perceived
+us, they reared aloft their heads, surmounted by huge and stately
+antlers, and dashed away with the velocity of the wind. As we neared a
+ranch belonging to Mr. N&mdash;&mdash;, everything bespoke the wealth and
+prosperity of the ranchholder. He possessed a herd of one thousand
+horses. That day they were corralled, for the purpose of branding those
+not already bearing the owner’s mark. This seems to me a cruel process,
+yet an unavoidable one there, where so many different people’s stock are
+running together over the plains. They blindfold the beast, and chain it
+to a post deeply imbedded in the earth. Then the blacksmith takes the
+branding-iron, bearing the owner’s stamp, heats<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_165">{165}</a></span> it red hot, and applies
+it quickly to the shoulder or haunch of the animal. How the seared hair
+and hide smoke! and how the poor creature plunges and rears with fright
+and pain! I have too much sympathy for the poor brutes ever to be a
+ranchholder, or the wife of one. We dined at the ranch of Mr. L&mdash;&mdash;,
+whose waving fields of grain, with other appurtenances, revealed in a
+measure the extent of his wealth.</p>
+
+<p>We travelled on through elysian valleys, until we reached our
+destination. The only objection a person could have to a residence in
+these sunny vales is the annoyance one is subjected to from myriads of
+musquetoes, which, at certain seasons, swarm the country. I have seen
+laborers at work in the fields with green veils tied to their hats, and
+drawn down over their faces, and fastened about their necks. When we
+reached our destination (the ranch of Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;), I was very much
+fatigued; but that, in a measure, was dispelled by the hearty welcome I
+received from Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; (Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;’s daughter), an interesting lady
+from New York, who arrived in the country at the time I did. Her father
+was a very wealthy ranchholder.</p>
+
+<p>Their dwelling-house was constructed of adobe brick. It was only one
+story high, but more than<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_166">{166}</a></span> sixty feet long. Mr. S&mdash;&mdash; employed a host of
+Indians upon his ranch. The beautiful gardens and extensive fields of
+grain furnished convincing proofs of the enterprise, industry, and
+energy of the proprietor. Nineteen years’ salutary training had, in a
+measure, eradicated the indolent propensities inherent to the Digger
+race. Mr. S&mdash;&mdash; had been a resident in California, and on that ranch,
+for nineteen long years. What caused him to leave his family and native
+land, to seek a home in the wilds of California, is unknown to me. But
+so he did. When he left his home, Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, the daughter then with
+him, was a babe scarcely six months old. During those long years of
+separation, the wife knew not the whereabouts of her husband, or of his
+existence even. His little children grew to man’s and woman’s estate in
+the interim, never dreaming they had a father in California. Some were
+old enough to recollect him before his self-banishment from their
+presence; but they soon learned to speak of him as one gone to the
+spirit-land.</p>
+
+<p>One chill autumn eve in 1850, might have been seen a man a little past
+the meridian of life, whose silvered locks and furrowed cheeks gave
+evidence of past griefs, of sufferings that had roughly stirred<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_167">{167}</a></span> the
+deep fountains within,&mdash;else the surface would not have been so deeply
+channelled,&mdash;standing irresolutely before the door of a neat mansion in
+New York city. Conflicting emotions of pleasure and of pain were rapidly
+crossing each other upon his countenance; and well they might, for he
+was standing, after an absence of nineteen years, at the door of his own
+house, desiring, yet scarcely daring, to enter. He summoned courage to
+ring; the door opened, and he crossed the threshold of his
+home,&mdash;confronted his wife&mdash;how changed from the young and blooming
+woman he left so long ago! yet, the instant their eyes met, the
+recognition was mutual. The little Bessy he left a babe, was all the
+child remaining at home. He remained with his wife and child that
+winter; but there existed a yearning for his home in California, that he
+vainly endeavored to conquer. He must return. Would his wife and child
+go with him? The daughter would, for she manifested unusual affection
+for her father, so recently found. The wife preferred to remain behind.
+In the spring, father and daughter left New York for the home in
+California. They were unavoidably detained at Panama. While there, the
+daughter became acquainted with a young gentleman from her native<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_168">{168}</a></span> city.
+He proposed, was accepted, and they were united at Panama, before
+proceeding on their voyage. And here they were domesticated, away in the
+interior of California. They appeared to be enjoying as much happiness
+as ever falls to the lot of mortals. How pleasant it seemed to enter
+that adobe building, and find everything arranged with a neatness and
+regularity eliciting admiration. Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; performed no household
+duties herself. She had five or six well-trained Indian women for house
+servants, who labored hard for no other remuneration than their food and
+raiment. The last-mentioned stipulation, however, was easily complied
+with, as they require but very little clothing&mdash;just as much as decency
+requires, and no more.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; is a lovely woman, well qualified to grace the most refined
+and intelligent society. There was a novelty and charm connected with
+their residence in that remote place, which rendered life peculiarly
+pleasant. The extensive tract of land which Mr. S. possessed (since the
+confirmation of the ranch titles) has rendered him immensely wealthy.
+Immediately upon our arrival, our horses were allowed to revel in the
+luxuries of wild oats. They were actually up to their eyes in acres of
+the nutritious grain. After the busi<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_169">{169}</a></span>ness which had led us to that
+remote place had been ratified; we started on our homeward journey, with
+much more extended views of the agricultural resources of California
+than we had hitherto enjoyed. Soon after this, my brother left for
+distant mines.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Now</span> came a report to Marysville that rich diggings had been discovered
+at a place designated French Corral, which was about fifty miles from
+Marysville. This intelligence (as it ever does in California) caused
+hundreds of people, of all classes and professions, to rush
+simultaneously to the spot where gold was so gratuitously deposited. My
+husband was desirous of going too; and, possibly, he might establish a
+boarding-house there, if the prospect bid fair. So one morning, about a
+week after the tide of emigration had commenced flowing so rapidly, we
+started, and foolishly too, in a one-horse buggy. It was reported there
+was a good wagon-road leading directly to the place.</p>
+
+<p>But what would be called a good wagon-road<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_170">{170}</a></span> there, would be considered
+utterly impassable here. Neither my husband nor myself had ever
+travelled in the mountains; if we had ever done so, no doubt we should
+have possessed wisdom enough to have taken the journey upon
+mules&mdash;decidedly the best mode of conveyance in the Sierra Nevada
+region. Early one morn in the month of June, we left the town of
+Marysville, long before the inhabitants had awakened from their drowsy
+slumbers, and pursued our course in a north-easterly direction,
+following the course of the Yuba, crossing and recrossing it several
+times during the day. About twenty miles from town, we struck the low
+hills (as they are termed) of the vast and gigantic Sierra Nevada range.
+Low hills! thought I. I should call them mountains, and higher ones,
+too, than I had ever dreamed of travelling over. Recollect, kind reader,
+I had been reared away down on Cape Cod, where there are only a few
+slight elevations, justly denominated sand-banks. After reaching the top
+of a high hill, (I suppose I must call it so, but it would suit my ideas
+better to say mountain,) the wheels were chained, preparatory to a
+descent. How my heart beat, and how I wished myself back again, before
+we reached the base! It was one of my pet horses that drew us,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_171">{171}</a></span> and I
+knew he was perfectly gentle; but oh, how I pitied him!</p>
+
+<p>How entirely different was the scenery now from that enjoyed when
+traversing the beautiful valley of the Sacramento a short time previous!
+and yet in what close proximity these different sections lay! I could
+scarcely realize that I had not travelled thousands of miles, to reach a
+country so very dissimilar. After one becomes accustomed to mountain
+travel, I know not to which of these decidedly dissimilar landscapes the
+lover of nature would yield the palm. After overcoming in part the
+emotions of fear, I was perfectly entranced at beholding the lofty
+mountains towering far above us, their sides and summits timbered with
+large pines, firs, and cedars. And then how quiet and lovely looked
+those little valleys, so hidden and enclosed from the world, completely
+hemmed in by the grand and sublime elevations of nature’s most
+magnificent handiwork! Oh, what dark and gloomy-looking defiles were
+disclosed to view!&mdash;fit rendezvous for the sanguinary assassin, or the
+dark-skinned treacherous savage. An involuntary shudder ran through my
+frame, as we wended our way through these silent mountain recesses.</p>
+
+<p>I half-expected, every moment, to hear the whiz<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_172">{172}</a></span>zing of an Indian arrow
+past my ear, or the sharp click of the murderer’s revolver. We were well
+armed, for it was dangerous to travel in those mountains unarmed. But I
+very much doubted my ability, so far as regarded courage, to use any
+weapon, (except woman’s weapon,) even in self-defence. Often, as you
+enter one of these little valleys, your eyes will be greeted with the
+sight of a little shanty. Sometimes they call these mountain-glens
+corrals; and certainly they are corralled in by almost impervious
+barriers. One, in particular, arrested my attention. This valley was of
+an emerald green. Through it ran a clear, gurgling mountain-stream, the
+music of its waters inviting the weary wayfarer to sip of the
+health-promoting beverage. (I regret to add, at that time in California
+the health-inspiring properties of pure, unadulterated cold water were
+seldom tested.) Several cattle and mules were nibbling the green grass.
+But the prettiest feature of all, in my estimation, was an intelligent,
+bright-eyed little woman, seated just outside the door, under the shade
+of a magnolia, with a smiling, rosy little baby in her arms. I was out
+of the buggy in an instant, and had the little darling in my arms. There
+we obtained refreshments. There was quite<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_173">{173}</a></span> a history connected with this
+bright-eyed woman, which I afterwards learned, and will relate, if my
+readers will pardon the episode. It may perhaps interest them as much in
+the recital as it did me.</p>
+
+<p>We will now glance back through many years to the innocent days of
+childhood&mdash;to this lady’s pleasant home on the banks of the lovely
+Connecticut. Not far from the shores of the Sound, which receives its
+limpid waters, stood a quaint, old-fashioned farm-house; and <i>there</i> she
+passed the spring-time of youth. On an adjacent farm dwelt another happy
+family. Not a day passed but the children of these respective families
+had met, and raced and tumbled about, in all the wild joy of freedom and
+of health; now paddling on the smooth surface of the glassy river, or
+scrambling among thorns and briers in those old woods, after violets and
+nuts knowing no restraint, or recognizing none, save their parents’
+love. When she was about twelve years of age, her father conceived the
+idea of emigrating to the Western wilds.</p>
+
+<p>Then those children, who had lived, and loved, and played together so
+long, must separate. The heroine of my story, and a lad a few years her
+senior, belonging to the other family, had, almost unconsciously, as it
+were, conceived and cherished an<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_174">{174}</a></span> almost undying friendship for each
+other; the strength and ardor of which the parents little suspected.
+After an interchange of many little love-tokens, the lad placed a hair
+ring, of curious workmanship, upon the girl’s finger, with the solemn
+injunction never to part with it, and that, when he grew to be a man, he
+would seek her for his bride; and so they parted. Upon their arrival in
+the Western country, the father located himself, with his family, at or
+near Nauvoo city. Subsequently, he joined the Mormons, and resided many
+years at this place. About the time the tide of emigration commenced
+flowing to the golden shores of the Pacific, he put in execution the
+secretly cherished plan of removing with his family to Great Salt Lake
+city.</p>
+
+<p>In vain our heroine&mdash;now grown to a lovely and interesting woman&mdash;sought
+to deter her father from consummating this long-cherished plan of
+removal to the city of Zion. We can conjecture how much she was
+influenced in adopting such a course by the knowledge which she had
+recently obtained that the lover of her youth, to whom she had, in
+defiance of oft-repeated solicitations to the contrary, ever proved
+faithful, was about to seek her for a fulfilment of his boyish pledge.
+Her father was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_175">{175}</a></span> inexorable: he was determined upon going, and his
+favorite daughter must accompany them. The mother’s pleadings, too,
+could not be resisted. They started. The mother’s health, previously
+enervated, after six weeks’ toilsome travel across the plains, began
+visibly to decline. With intense anxiety, each succeeding day, they
+watched the paling cheek and tremulous motions of the wife and mother.
+Their worst fears were realized. One calm, still, moonlight eve, they
+consigned to a lonely grave the remains of the loved one. She had
+emigrated to her last peaceful home. Never more would she be called upon
+to resume her toilsome march across the plains of this sublunary sphere.
+The family now consisted of the widowed husband, the daughter, and a
+little girl, the offspring of a younger daughter, who had deceased
+several years previous to this last emigration, and, being a widow, had
+bequeathed her only child to its grand-parents. Little Rosa was a
+joyous, light-hearted child, possessed of strong affections. The rich
+wealth of love she had bestowed upon the grandmother had often caused
+the tears of that fond parent to flow at the thought of the bitter
+sorrow in store for the little darling, when she should have departed to
+her long home.</p>
+
+<p>The grief of the child under this affliction was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_176">{176}</a></span> deep and lasting.
+Never more was her sweet voice heard in unison with the feathered
+songsters, carolling her sweetest songs all the live-long day. Whenever
+they encamped, she would wander forth, and gather the prairie-roses, of
+which she begged her aunt to make for her a pillow. Upon this little
+pillow of roses every night she rested her tired head, covered with
+flaxen curls. One night, she complained of being unusually tired, and
+said, “Oh, aunty, where is my rosy pillow? That will cure me.” In the
+morning, they found her in a raging fever, from which she never
+recovered. In two weeks from the time, she wept inconsolably at the
+grave of her grandmother; she had gone to join her in the spirit-land.
+They laid her in her little grave, with the pillow of roses under her
+head, and resumed their gloomy march.</p>
+
+<p>In less than one week from this second bereavement, while fording a
+river, the father lost his life. Thus was the daughter left alone, the
+last of her family. She continued her journey with the company, and
+arrived safely at Salt Lake city. Here another trial awaited her. She
+had not been long there, before the great prophet, Brigham Young,
+selected her to swell the list of his spiritual wives, of whom at that
+time there were about thirty.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_177">{177}</a></span> Her heart revolted at the idea of such a
+destiny, and she resolved upon speedy flight. A company of emigrants,
+bound to California, were encamped a short distance from the city.
+Thither she secretly directed her steps, told her story, was admitted
+into the company, and conveyed to California. Upon her arrival there,
+she was engaged as an assistant in a hotel, where she remained nearly a
+year.</p>
+
+<p>One night, the occupants of this hotel were aroused by the appalling cry
+of “Fire!” in their midst. The building was in a blaze. Every one was
+rushing to obtain egress. At such a time, woe to those prostrated upon a
+bed of sickness! The shrieks of a sick man arrested the rapid steps of
+this woman, flying for safety from the devouring element. Many had
+rushed past, unmindful of his call for succor, intent only on
+self-preservation; but the kind heart of woman could not resist this
+touching appeal to her sympathies. She caught him in her arms, (for he
+was reduced to a mere skeleton, from intense suffering,) and rushed
+forth, just in time to escape the falling timbers. By the assistance of
+another person, the sick man was conveyed to comfortable quarters, where
+every attention was rendered him by the lady who had preserved his life
+on that eventful night. Owing to extreme<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_178">{178}</a></span> excitement in his then weak
+state, a violent delirium ensued, which continued for many days. None
+knew the sufferer, or from whence he came. Upon his restoration to
+reason, as his kind nurse was proffering to him a glass of water, he
+suddenly sank back upon his pillow in a fainting fit. When consciousness
+was once more restored, he could only point to a hair ring upon the
+lady’s finger, and articulate her name. Thus these lovers met, after a
+separation of nearly eighteen years. An explanation ensued, by which she
+learned that he had traced and followed her across the plains to Salt
+Lake city. There he lost all clue to her whereabouts. Disappointed and
+sick at heart, he pursued his way to California; went to the mines, and
+worked awhile, and was there taken sick. He managed to get to the hotel
+the day preceding the fire. The rest may be imagined by the situation in
+which I described her, as first seen by me upon entering that lovely
+valley. Truly, truth is stranger than fiction; and romance dwindles into
+insignificance, when contrasted with thrilling realities.</p>
+
+<p>Now I will proceed on our journey. I regretted to leave that beautiful
+spot, so rural, so retired, so far from the busy haunts of man. It had
+such a serene aspect, it seemed to me to be one of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_179">{179}</a></span> sweetest havens
+of rest that God ever provided for life’s weary pilgrim. We travelled on
+until we reached another valley, equally as rich in nature’s adornments;
+but its verdant soil had been recently saturated with the blood of three
+prospecting miners. Their bodies had been found pierced with arrows,
+besides being cut and mangled in a horrible manner. Some Indians near by
+were suspected of committing the murder. Consequently a number of miners
+had assembled, and, in order to intimidate the tribe, had taken three
+Indians, and hung them on the limb of a tree near by the scene of the
+murder. As we approached, we noticed with some anxiety the unusual
+collection of so many miners. Very soon the occasion of such an
+assemblage became apparent. There, on a single limb, were suspended the
+dead bodies of three Indians. One glimpse was sufficient. I can see them
+now, their swarthy, distorted visages emblematic of revenge and
+treachery.</p>
+
+<p>Finally we came to a little mountain town called Bridgeport. It
+consisted of three little shanties and a toll-bridge, which spanned the
+Yuba River. The setting sun was just gilding the tops of the surrounding
+mountains, as we halted in front of one of the dwellings to inquire the
+distance to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_180">{180}</a></span> French Corral. They informed us it was about five miles.
+They told us there was a pretty high mountain just beyond, and advised
+us to discontinue our journey for that night. They seemed so
+particularly solicitous for us to remain all night, their shanty was so
+filthily dirty, and they themselves were such savage, hirsute-looking
+objects, that I entreated my husband to go on. I thought, out of two
+evils, we were choosing the least by proceeding. I came to a different
+conclusion, however, before we reached our destination. My husband paid
+one dollar and a half toll, and we crossed a high bridge, under which
+rolled the Yuba. At this place, it was a rapidly rushing stream. It went
+foaming and dashing over innumerable rocks which intercepted its
+progress, overleaping every barrier, acknowledging no superior power.
+Unceasingly it rolled on its course, its waters mingling with those of
+her sister rivers, and <i>all</i> tending to one point, viz., the broad
+Pacific.</p>
+
+<p>Directly after crossing the Yuba, we commenced the toilsome ascent of
+the highest mountain we had yet encountered. At the commencement of the
+ascent, my husband alighted to walk up the mountain, and I was to drive
+up. The poor horse started with all the energy he possessed, in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_181">{181}</a></span>
+hope, I suppose, of speedily gaining the top. I quickly lost sight of my
+husband, who was trudging on in the vain hope of overtaking me. Soon I
+began to perceive evident signs of exhaustion in the horse. I tried to
+stop him, but could not. The buggy drew back so, that, if he attempted
+to stop, it drew him back too. And oh, what an awful road it was! Deep
+gullies worn by streams of water, which had flowed down when the snow
+had melted, deep enough to hide myself in! I tried several times to get
+the carriage crosswise the road, but could not, on account of those
+gullies and huge rocks.</p>
+
+<p>I was fearful, every moment, the horse would fall, from utter
+exhaustion. He was covered with white foam, and his tongue was extended
+from his mouth. I screamed for my husband at the top of my voice; but he
+was puffing and blowing far down the mountain. I finally contrived to
+get the carriage wedged in between two rocks. I then got out, and went
+to the relief of the horse. Poor fellow! I thought he was dying, for
+some time. When my husband appeared in sight, his appearance betokened
+about as great exhaustion as the horse. After a good rest, we all
+proceeded up, I on foot too. Three or four times I threw myself<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_182">{182}</a></span> on the
+ground in utter exhaustion. We could not proceed as leisurely as we
+would, had night not been so close upon us. The summit was reached; and
+what a magnificent view greeted my wondering vision! The road wound
+round the mountain near the top. The sides of the mountain had been cut
+down, and a very good level road formed, of just sufficient width for
+only one carriage to pass round at a time. A horn, which is found at
+each termination of this narrow pass, is loudly sounded by travellers,
+before entering on the road, as a warning of their approach. The
+distance from this road down an almost perpendicular descent was one
+thousand feet; and at the base of the mountain rolled the foaming waters
+of the Yuba River. Yet from that dizzy height it had the appearance of a
+white ribbon no wider than your hand. The outside wheels of the buggy
+ran within three feet of the edge of the precipice. Nothing could induce
+me to ride (even with our gentle horse) in such close proximity to the
+frightful chasm. My husband jumped in and rode around, while I went
+plodding along, almost ankle-deep in the red sand. Presently I heard
+voices behind. I turned to look, and there, a few paces behind me, were
+two dark, swarthy, bewhiskered individuals, each mounted on<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_183">{183}</a></span> a fine
+mule, and one of them was leading a spare mule. What to do I did not
+know. There I was, alone, wallowing in the sand, my bonnet off, hair
+dishevelled, face the color of vermilion, and dress the color of the
+sand. Who or what I was, or how I came there on foot, I suppose was
+beyond their comprehension.</p>
+
+<p>When they overtook me, one said, “Good evening, madam; this is a hard
+road to travel over Jordan.” To this I made no reply. Said the other,
+“Wont you ride? you look tired.” I told him there was a carriage waiting
+for me just round the mountain. So they rode on. Soon I found my husband
+waiting for me. I quickly accepted his invitation to ride, for I feared
+meeting with other adventures, which might not terminate so pleasantly.
+We travelled on, expecting to reach the corral every moment. There were
+no more such high elevations on our route as the last we had surmounted;
+but there were a plenty high enough, I assure you.</p>
+
+<p>But for the brilliant rays of the queen of night, we should have been
+compelled to encamp in the mountains. Nothing could exceed the grandeur
+and sublimity of these mountain-glens and cañons, walled in by those
+grand and lofty mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_184">{184}</a></span> and lighted by the brilliant and powerful
+rays of the moon, and the sparkling radiance of the starry host,
+glittering like so many diamonds in the deep-blue canopy of the heavens.
+Their desolation is mellowed; an air of purity and holiness seems to
+pervade those silent places, which leads the imagination to picture them
+as grand saloons of nature, fashioned by the hand of the Almighty for
+the residence of pure and uncontaminating substances, and not for the
+doomed children of passion, want, care, and sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>About ten in the evening, we made our descent into the valley bearing
+the name of French Corral. We were perfectly astonished at beholding
+such a collection of canvas houses&mdash;large frame boarding-houses and
+hotels, brilliantly lighted gambling-saloons without number, and Spanish
+dance-houses, French cafés, drinking-saloons, etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p>It may not be amiss to state here the manner of building frame-houses,
+when the time occupied in building was two days for a private dwelling,
+four days for a hotel, and six days for a church. The last mentioned,
+however, was not often raised. A building would boast of a very slight
+frame, not boarded, but split clapboard nailed on to the frame, and the
+outside was finished. Upon the inside, in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_185">{185}</a></span> lieu of laths and plastering,
+bleached or unbleached cotton cloth is stretched smoothly and tightly,
+and fastened to the frame. This cloth is then papered over, and it looks
+as nice as paper upon plastering. The ceiling overhead is nice bleached
+cloth, sewed together neatly, and stretched so tightly there is not a
+wrinkle observable. For partitions a frame is raised, and each side of
+this frame is cloth and paper, leaving a hollow space between the two
+partitions of cloth, about three or four inches in width. These
+partitions look as firm and solid as they do made the usual way; but
+they afford but a slight hindrance to the passage of sounds. These
+deceptive partitions have been accessory to the diffusion of many a
+momentous secret.</p>
+
+<p>Begging pardon for this digression, I will proceed with the description
+of this speedily-rushed-into-existence mining town. We were directed to
+the California Hotel, as one capable of rendering the best
+accommodations. Thither we accordingly went, and received a hearty
+reception. Every attention benighted, tired travellers could reasonably
+require, was cheerfully conferred. Next morning, we rose from our
+couches of straw, rather lame, to be sure, but anxious, nevertheless, to
+reconnoitre the town. We first repaired to the mines. There<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_186">{186}</a></span> were over
+one thousand miners at work in a gulch surrounded by towering mountains,
+which shot up almost perpendicularly over their heads. The frosts of
+spring tarry latest in those gulches, and the genial rays of the winter
+sun penetrate but occasionally to cheer the miner in his arduous toil.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult, after all the descriptions he may read, for any one who
+has not been in the mines to obtain any correct idea of the manner in
+which they are worked, or of the difficulties and singular vicissitudes
+in life to which the miner is exposed. If the miner be dependent upon
+others for his water by paying for it weekly, success demands that he
+should be an early riser. Before the first dawn of light breaks upon the
+sky above him, he opens his eyes, rolls over on his hard bed, stretches
+his stiffened limbs, and, feeling about for his boots, places his hand
+upon something resembling an icicle, into which his feet are thrust, and
+the labors of the day commenced. He kindles his fire, (that is, if he
+boards himself,) fills and sets on the coffeepot, fries his “flap-jacks”
+and his pork, or warms up his beans, and the morning repast is prepared.
+It is then quickly eaten; and, by the time it is daylight, the miner is
+beside his tom. The water is let on, and in half an hour’s time he is
+standing ankle<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_187">{187}</a></span>-deep in it, while, every few minutes, a dash of it is
+accidentally sprinkled upon his back. A hard day’s work of this kind is
+not unfrequently closed by the paltry reward of one, two, or three
+dollars, to be divided between the last named number of men. And this
+approximates, more nearly than all other histories, to the truth of
+mining. The “big strikes” are always heard of first, because the good
+news is published, while the bad is deemed worthy of no such
+distinction. From this cause thousands of people meet with
+disappointment, and write back to their Atlantic friends, reviling a
+country the noblest for its climate, soil, and business advantages, of
+any under the broad canopy of heaven.</p>
+
+<p>The success of the miner depends a great deal upon luck. He may be
+industrious, economical, possessed of good morals, labor perseveringly
+for months, and sometimes years, and still be poor, as far as the
+acquisition of gold is concerned; while, perhaps, an unprincipled
+spendthrift in a few months may realize a fortune. A claim, too, may
+prospect rich, and yet, upon working it, yield scarcely sufficient to
+defray the expenses. Sometimes, also, adjoining claims which prospect
+alike may prove, one rich, and the other poor. I knew one fellow who had
+worked three weeks upon his claim, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_188">{188}</a></span> had not realized enough to pay
+his board. He became disheartened, and sold out to a “green-horn,” who,
+in the interval of six weeks, took out over three thousand dollars’
+worth of the yellow metal. I knew another, too, who labored hard three
+years in the country, without any more than defraying his expenses, when
+he was fortunate enough to strike a “pocket,” from which he took out
+twenty thousand dollars. But here I am digressing again.</p>
+
+<p>We found, upon walking about the town, that nearly every other building
+was a boarding-house. So much competition had reduced board to twelve
+dollars per week, which would not pay, considering the fact of having to
+pay six cents per pound freight for the transportation of provisions
+from Marysville; so my husband relinquished the idea of opening a house
+there, and decided to return to Marysville on the following day. That
+night, there was to be a grand ball at the Corral; and Mrs. R&mdash;&mdash;, the
+wife of the gentleman who kept the house where we stopped, was very
+anxious for me to accompany her to witness the proceedings. Accordingly,
+in the course of the evening, we stepped in, as silent spectators of the
+festive scene. I was rather surprised at beholding such a recherché
+assemblage. By the appearance of the company, I should not<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_189">{189}</a></span> have
+suspected that we were, figuratively speaking, in the bowels of the
+Sierra Nevada Mountains. A long artificial bower had been constructed,
+under which were spread the tables, loaded with delicious viands. There
+were turkeys, which at that period could not be purchased for less than
+twenty-five dollars apiece; and pigs, too, which were equally as scarce
+in the market. There were jellies and East India preserves temptingly
+displayed, also the refreshing ice-cream. Beautiful bouquets graced the
+tables. These flowers had been gathered in close proximity to snow.
+Sixteen miles distant, farther up in the mountains, was plenty of ice
+then; and there was a Frenchman at the Corral&mdash;from whom the place
+derived its name&mdash;who kept quite a number of cows; so that ice and cream
+were very easily obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Here, fifty miles from the settlements, were convened a collection of
+gentlemen and ladies, who had come, some ten, some twenty, and some
+thirty miles, to join in the merry dance. I saw two Bostonians there. It
+was a select company: all gamblers were excluded.</p>
+
+<p>After having regaled ourselves with some refreshments, which the polite
+and gentlemanly host insisted upon our partaking, we took our leave,
+as,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_190">{190}</a></span> the ensuing morning early, we were to start on our homeward
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>It is a peculiar feature of the climate in California, that, as soon as
+the snow disappears from the earth, the flowers spring up spontaneously.
+There is no frost in the ground, and the heavy body of snow lying
+thereon serves to keep it warm. While at the Corral, I was presented
+with an elegant bouquet, which a gentleman told me he gathered between
+two snow-banks, in such close proximity to each other, that, with his
+arms extended, he could reach the snow on either side. The rising sun,
+next morning, found us at the top of that high mountain, very near the
+spot where he bade us adieu on our journey up.</p>
+
+<p>Neither ourselves nor the horse were as fatigued as when we made the
+ascent; therefore, it did not appear half as formidable; yet I preferred
+being upon my feet. It was really frightful to look at the horse and
+buggy. The wheels were both chained: yet how the poor horse had to brace
+his feet at every step! It was on this same mountain, the following
+August, as a party of emigrants, who travelled across the plains, were
+descending in an ox-team, the wagon pitch-poled, distributing the
+contents (which consisted of a woman and two or<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_191">{191}</a></span> three children,
+cooking-stove, and many other household utensils) in every direction.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached Bridgeport, we were accosted by the toll-gatherer with
+“Well, I reckon as how you had a right smart heap of trouble that night,
+afore you reached the top of the mountain. I allowed you would be for
+turning back; but I have always heard say, them Yankee women never would
+give up beat.” How he knew I was a Yankee, was beyond my comprehension;
+for he did not hear me speak, as I recollect of. Must be my countenance
+was the index of the nation to which I belonged; and I believe it does
+speak Yankee as well as my tongue; for I was never taken for anything
+else, except once&mdash;&mdash;.</p>
+
+<p>We met with no adventure particularly worth relating on our homeward
+journey. When we descended again to the foot of the hills, they really
+seemed clipped of nearly one-half their altitude since I had passed over
+them. I was also surprised at the wonderful amount of courage I had
+acquired during the trip. Now I laughed at travelling over those hills I
+before had cried at. That night, the little canvas house received within
+its walls a tired couple. Not long after this did it afford us a home.
+My husband sold it, and we went to the Tremont Hotel,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_192">{192}</a></span> where I remained
+during the remainder of my stay in Marysville.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Soon</span> after this, I took a journey, in company with several ladies and
+gentlemen from San Francisco, to a mining locality, called Park’s Bar,
+situated about twenty miles from Marysville. After leaving the plain,
+our route lay through a thick growth of what is there termed chaparell.
+It resembles, at a distance, the hawthorn. So dense is this growth of
+bushes, it affords grand lurking-places for the assassin. Many a poor
+miner, as he has trudged along, with his blankets upon his back, perhaps
+well laden with the shining dust, has at this place been pounced upon,
+and relieved of his burden, and perhaps his life, by some one of the
+many desperadoes who infest the country.</p>
+
+<p>A gentleman of the company related an incident which occurred, as a
+friend of his was once travelling this particular locality. He was
+driving a mule-team very leisurely along, in close communion<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_193">{193}</a></span> with his
+thoughts, when, all at once, he was startled from his reverie by the
+sudden halting of his mules. Upon looking up, there, close in advance of
+the mules, were two huge grisly bears, amusing themselves with their
+cubs. His heart was in his mouth in an instant. How could he compete
+with two such formidable antagonists, should they simultaneously attack
+him? His mules betrayed the terror they were suffering by one long,
+continuous bray, in which they were speedily joined by their no less
+frightened driver. This horrid din, suddenly bursting upon this bruin
+coterie, had the desired effect. They instantly disappeared in the
+surrounding chaparell; while the teamster pursued his way with all
+possible dispatch, congratulating himself upon having escaped, at least,
+a very <i>feeling</i> embrace. While speaking of this graminivorous animal,
+allow me to add, that I was acquainted with a family who had in their
+possession a cub, so tame that he used to play about the floor with the
+children as harmlessly as a pet-kitten. He was prized so highly, they
+had declined several tempting offers to part with him. Some hunters had
+shot his mother, and were dragging her off, when this little cub ran
+after them, sprang upon its dead mother,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_194">{194}</a></span> and evinced the strongest
+symptoms of affection. Thus it was easily captured.</p>
+
+<p>About mid-day, we arrived at our destination&mdash;quite a little town,
+picturesquely situated upon the banks of the Yuba. Those little mountain
+towns are, to me, invested with a charm, a novelty, that is perfectly
+bewitching. After refreshing ourselves at a hotel in the vicinity, we
+repaired to the mining ground, as we laughingly remarked, to prospect.
+Some of the miners were so very gallant as to offer us the use of their
+pans, at the same time assuring us that they would allow us all the gold
+dust we were lucky enough to pan out. It was considered rich diggins at
+this spot; therefore, the vision of a heap of gold dust incited us at
+once to doff our lace sleeves and fancy fixings, and enter zealously
+upon this to us novel method of obtaining that coveted metal. Oh, it was
+back-aching work, I assure you!</p>
+
+<p>Since that one half hour’s work in the mines, how much sympathy I have
+felt for the gold-digger! The thought at once obtruded itself, that if
+some of the wives of these poor miners whom I had known could but
+realize one half of the toil and hardships their husbands endure in the
+acquisition of wealth, or of even a competency, by the use of the pan
+and shovel, they would not be half so lavish<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_195">{195}</a></span> in their expenditures. It
+was excessively warm; there was not a breath of air stirring; the sun
+was shining down with more than tropical fervor, while its rays were
+reflected in ten thousand directions from the sides of the hills, until
+the atmosphere glowed and glimmered like the air in a furnace.</p>
+
+<p>Although the earth was yielding at the rate of ten cents to the panful,
+we very soon came to the conclusion, that we had rather suffer the
+privations incident to poverty than toil longer in that burning heat;
+so, wiping the perspiration from our vermilion countenances, we repaired
+to the hotel; from whence, after a short rest, I sallied forth to visit
+several female acquaintances of mine who resided at the Bar. They were
+ladies who, upon their first arrival in the country, had boarded with us
+awhile, until their husbands could provide a suitable abode for them in
+the mines.</p>
+
+<p>I found one of them, a Mrs. Q&mdash;&mdash;, suffering excessively from a terrible
+fright she had received the night previous. The facts were these: They
+kept a boarding-house, where they accommodated about forty persons. In
+the night, they were both awakened by a noise in their room. Before they
+could move, and even before her husband could grasp a revolver which lay
+loaded under his pillow,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_196">{196}</a></span> the figure of a man, masked, and holding a
+sharp, glittering knife in his hand, was standing over them. The knife
+was held within an inch of her throat, while the threat was uttered,
+that if her husband moved so much as an inch, his wife’s life would pay
+the penalty. Such a threat was, of course, effective. There they lay,
+while three other burglars entered the room, and commenced pilfering. A
+trunk was opened, from whence they abstracted one thousand dollars in
+gold dust. Next followed her jewelry, and her gold watch, a parting
+present from her mother. Her husband’s watch, and several other articles
+of value, was seized upon; with all of which they decamped. The sentinel
+still stood over the wife, while she had fainted from fright. After
+waiting until his co-workers in villany were fairly off, he told him, if
+he raised the alarm until the lapse of so many minutes after his
+departure, that a ball, from an unseen and unerring hand, would be the
+forfeiture. He then vamosed. The alarm, however, was instantly given;
+every inmate in the house were aroused; but no trace of the robbers was
+ever discovered. It was weeks, and even months, before Mrs.
+Q&mdash;&mdash; recovered from the shock she that night received.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_197">{197}</a></span></p><p>I felt in hopes the party would conclude to remain over night at the
+bar; but, as there was a bright moon, they decided upon a moonlight
+drive to Marysville. I must confess myself so much of a coward that I
+liked not to travel through those gloomy-looking cañons and ravines at
+night, even were the way illumined by brilliant Luna’s beams. I fancied
+the shadows of the trees assumed the form of the lurking assassin, ready
+for a spring. We met with no adventure on the way home, and our ears
+were assailed with no more horrible sounds than the bark of the cayotes
+that prowled along on our track. These animals partake of the nature of
+the wolf, and are very cowardly. They are a great pest in California.
+The burial-ground, situated about a mile from Marysville, was often
+frequented by these animals; bodies were often found exhumed and
+partially devoured by them.</p>
+
+<p>During my residence in California, situated as I was most of the time in
+a hotel, I had ample opportunity to study human nature in all its varied
+phases. Scenes of misery, too, I witnessed, enough to fill a volume,
+were they all recorded. Scenes of gayety and splendor also diversified
+the way. I attended one wedding in Marysville, the cost of which was
+currently estimated at two thousand dollars. The bride was a fair widow
+of thirty, (and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_198">{198}</a></span> wealthy withal,) whose husband had deceased five months
+previously.</p>
+
+<p>People in our staid, matter-of-fact, puritanical towns, can have but a
+faint conception of the ever-varying, ever-changing scenes, pertaining
+to a life in California, where fortunes are made and lost in a day;
+friends die, and are forgotten soon, in the constant whirl of excitement
+which surrounds one. People who, when I first arrived in California,
+were considered immensely rich in this world’s goods, long before I left
+were reduced to penury. The motto there is, “Nothing risked, nothing
+gained.” They will perhaps invest all they possess in some great
+speculation, (always bound to succeed,) and lose the whole. Then, again,
+vice versa.</p>
+
+<p>What shocked me more than all else in California was, to see the poor,
+sick, and often penniless people, brought to the hotels (there were no
+hospitals in Marysville at that time) to die; and then, when the soul
+had taken its flight to the spirit-land, to see the hearse drive to the
+door, take the body, which had been deposited in a rough box without the
+usual apparelling for the grave, and start off to the place of interment
+alone! Not one solitary mourner to follow the remains, or drop the tear
+of affection at the grave of one who, perhaps, in some<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_199">{199}</a></span> far-distant
+home, had many “loving friends, and true,” who were anxiously waiting
+and watching for his return.</p>
+
+<p>One day there were two brothers, brought by their father to the Tremont
+Hotel. They were sick with a fever. After a week of intense suffering,
+they died, and the lone father followed them to their last
+resting-place. A few days subsequent to this event, he was attacked with
+the same fever which had proved fatal to his sons. He soon felt
+convinced that he, too, must die. When the proprietor of the house asked
+him if he had friends in the Atlantic states, to whom he wished word to
+be conveyed, “No,” said he; “I am the last of my race. I have no friend
+living to mourn for me.” He even declined naming the place of his birth.
+In a few days after that, he lay beside his boys.</p>
+
+<p>At another time, the mangled form of a young and intelligent-looking man
+was brought to a hotel. He had been crushed in a horrible manner by the
+falling of a large rock where he was at work. His head and chest alone
+remained uninjured. A younger brother accompanied him to the hotel, and
+remained as his nurse. Every night he used to slip quietly from his
+suffering brother’s room, and repair to the gambling-houses, and there
+stake<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_200">{200}</a></span> and lose large sums, which had been obtained at the price of his
+brother’s life. The poor sick man, unable to raise a finger, his back
+turned towards the door, and therefore not knowing his brother was
+absent, would call repeatedly the brother’s name, begging him for a
+glass of water. After a while, all would be still. No one suspected he
+was dying there alone nights.</p>
+
+<p>One night, I heard the call so long continued, and so plaintively
+uttered, I could endure it no longer. I rose, dressed myself, and
+repaired to the sufferer’s room. I found him all alone. “I wish, madam,”
+he said, “you would waken Jack. He sleeps so soundly, I never can arouse
+him in the night. I call until I am fearful of awakening the occupants
+of the surrounding rooms, and then I desist. But now I think I am
+dying.” I told him his brother’s bed was vacant. He seemed very much
+distressed at his brother’s absence. Search was immediately instituted.
+He was found at a gambling-table, betting. He was summoned to the
+bedside of his brother. After a while, the sick man revived. He lingered
+through the next day. At night, his physician enjoined his brother to
+remain constantly with him, as it was not probable he would survive
+until morning. The passion for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_201">{201}</a></span> gambling had gained such an ascendency
+over the young brother’s better feelings, that, some time during the
+silent watches of the night, he had deserted his dying brother! In the
+morning, the poor sufferer was found a corpse. He had died alone! What
+struggles, what agonizing thoughts, were his, what words passed his
+dying lips, none save his Maker knew.</p>
+
+<p>The brother had passed the night in one of the many dens of infamy that
+abounded, and which shed, and still do, a withering blight over the fair
+and sunny valleys of the richest country the sun ever shone upon. See,
+in this case, what a pernicious influence those gilded saloons of vice
+have upon the unstable mind of youth. Here were two brothers, who had
+been reared by fond parents in the fear and admonition of the Lord.
+Through their childhood they had loved one another; and together they
+had repaired to a distant land to seek their fortunes. The younger,
+whose mind was more vacillating, had by degrees yielded to the song of
+that siren, Vice, until she had lured him to her haunts, causing him to
+forget home, friends, and even a dying brother, to follow in the train
+of the tempter.</p>
+
+<p>My prayers are, and ever have been, with the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_202">{202}</a></span> vigilance committees of
+California. May the blessing of God attend them, and prosper all their
+undertakings and endeavors to uproot and exterminate those hot-beds of
+vice, those quick-sands in the ocean of life, upon which the bark of
+many a promising youth, of many a young husband, and of many a
+middle-aged father, has been irrecoverably wrecked.</p>
+
+<p>Go into the villages and towns throughout the Atlantic States, and in
+how many will you not find one, at least, who has been a heart-sufferer
+from the effects of those dens of sin and iniquity, which, until the
+organization of the vigilance committee, threw open their gilded doors,
+even in the glare of noon-day, to allure the weak-minded and
+unsuspecting! And even the strong-minded have sometimes fallen a prey to
+their seductive wiles. How many homes have been rendered desolate, how
+many families disunited and severed, how many hearts as well as fortunes
+broken, by the prevalence of that one great sin, gambling! and it has
+been an almost universal vice in California.</p>
+
+<p>How many enterprising and ambitious men have I known who emigrated with
+their happy wives to California, their hearts buoyant with bright
+anticipations of the future! Success for awhile crowned<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_203">{203}</a></span> all their
+undertakings; but, alas! those gorgeously furnished drinking-saloons
+which meet the eye at every turn proved too enticing for frail human
+nature to resist. The first temptation yielded to, and how easily the
+downward course is pursued, which terminates in total depravity!</p>
+
+<p>The young wife, neglected by her husband, her brilliant hopes
+crushed,&mdash;unless she be possessed of a strong mind, and has friends
+there to guide and guard her,&mdash;rather than return alone to the home of
+her childhood, gradually loses her self-respect, and finally swells the
+list of those we blush to name.</p>
+
+<p>Those upon whom the sun of prosperity has ever shone, know not how
+bitterly painful is the first clouding over of youth’s sweet
+visions&mdash;the first crushing blight of confidence and love&mdash;the first
+consciousness that life is not so fair and bright, nor friends so kind
+and true, as we have pictured them. Not from observation wholly do I
+asseverate these statements&mdash;by sad experience have these sentiments
+become deeply imbedded in my heart. I have known, and felt, and suffered
+<i>all</i>, in my short life. But, when the wife’s cup of misery is full to
+overflowing, and she returns to the home of her youth, expecting to
+receive the sympathy she so<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_204">{204}</a></span> justly deserves, and which is so readily
+proffered by those encircling her own hearth-stone, how poignant to her
+sensitive and lacerated feelings are the baneful, whispered slanders
+which are borne to her ears! and emanating, too, from the lips of those
+she once considered friends, and who, had adversity not overtaken her,
+would still have been fawning sycophants for favor.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, ye slanderers! pause in your career; for it is one of the most
+heinous sins that the instigator of all evil ever conceived, and from
+which every pure heart will turn with loathing and disgust. If the
+professed slanderer ever has any moments of serious reflection, how
+severe must be the accusations of that faithful monitor within; for to
+how many, in the course of their life-time, have they cast their
+poisoned arrows, dipped in the foul extract of their own hearts, which,
+while it <i>kills</i> not those to whom it is aimed, rankles deeply in a
+sensitive heart, causing tears of agony to flow! Then there are always
+plenty of the lovers of gossip abroad to catch and retail slander;
+plenty ready to believe an evil report, without taking the trouble to
+investigate. Thus many an innocent heart has palpitated keenly, upon
+receiving manifest slights from a source whence they had a right to
+expect nought but kindness.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_205">{205}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">One</span> bright morning, toward the latter part of the month of September, I
+left Marysville for a drive to General Sutler’s residence, situated
+about eight miles below Marysville. You cross Feather River at Yuba
+city, and follow the banks of this lovely stream, the scene varied and
+beautified by nature’s incomparable adornments, until the picturesque
+mansion of the affable and dignified general greets the eye. The road
+leads to the back entrance of the spacious, square court-yard, which is
+surrounded by a range of buildings on three sides. Several large and
+stately trees rear their umbrageous branches far above the roofs of the
+adobe buildings, which, from their sylvan retreat, peep out a ready
+welcome to the tired stranger. The grounds around the dwelling are
+tastefully and beautifully adorned with numerous parterres, some of
+which are inclosed with hedges of cactus. Here I saw the first
+cultivated rose that had greeted my eye since leaving New England. How
+the sight of those roses carried me back to the neat New England homes,
+embowered with honey-suckle and roses! It was actually fragrant with
+home,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_206">{206}</a></span> and home associations. On one side of the gardens extended a
+flourishing vineyard, the products of which amply repaid the labor
+expended thereon.</p>
+
+<p>We were invited by the general to enter his pleasant-looking domicile,
+which invitation we cheerfully accepted. We were regaled with grapes, as
+luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit which tempted the occupants
+of paradise. The wines proffered,&mdash;the produce of the vines of
+California,&mdash;having attained age, were pronounced of an excellent
+quality in substance and flavor. Sweet music, discoursed by one of the
+general’s sons, enhanced the pleasure of this often-remembered visit.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians in the immediate vicinity are devoted to the general’s
+service; while the only remuneration they ask or expect is their food.
+His house servants are all the female Diggers. The general’s family
+carriage is drawn by two sleek-looking mules; and the driver’s box is
+occupied by a Digger Indian, in costume á la fancy. Mrs. Sutter
+generally denies herself to all visitors; but the regret generated by
+her absence speedily vanishes in the presence of the affable, courteous
+general, who ever welcomes his visitors with a cordiality inseparable
+from the man, whose integrity never bent to wrong or pusillanimous
+expediency, and who, armed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_207">{207}</a></span> intellectually with the panoply of justice,
+has courage to sustain it, under all and any circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived back to Marysville just as the red orb of day touched the rim
+of the western horizon, covering it all with crimson and gold, and
+filling the world with a flood of evening glory.</p>
+
+<p>I was often amused, while sojourning at the Tremont, by witnessing the
+transformations effected by a change of apparel on the inhabitants of
+the mountains, when they made temporary visits to the valleys. One day,
+a weary and care-worn-looking miner entered the bar-room of the hotel.
+Nought of his countenance was visible save his eyes and nose; for over
+his brow was drawn a soiled Kossuth hat; while the lower part of his
+face was entirely concealed by an abundant growth of hair. He deposited
+his blankets upon the floor, advanced to the bar-keeper, and inquired
+for the proprietor of the house. To him this soiled and
+travelled-stained miner delivered up thousands for safe keeping. He
+seated himself in the gentlemen’s parlor, eyeing intently for some
+moments an open piano. Upon his advancing toward it, and seating himself
+upon the music-stool, a smile, bordering on derision, involuntarily
+passed from one to another of the occupants of the room. The smile,
+however, was speedily<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_208">{208}</a></span> changed to looks of astonishment, when, after
+running his fingers hastily over the keys, music such as we sometimes
+hear in our dreams, but <i>very</i> seldom in every-day life, gushed upon
+their astonished senses. The air was “Sweet Home.” He accompanied the
+instrument with a voice of surpassing melody, which penetrated to the
+ladies’ rooms, and brought them en masse to the stairs, where they
+remained almost spell-bound, while he played and sang piece after piece,
+seemingly engrossed by heart-awakening memories of other days and other
+lands, and wholly unconscious of the presence of listeners who had
+gathered around him. As he was about midway in the execution of that
+plaintive song, “Katy Darling,” he suddenly ceased, became aware of the
+attention he was attracting, caught up his old, greasy hat, and vamosed.</p>
+
+<p>When next he appeared in their midst, the metamorphosis was so complete
+as to utterly prevent recognition, had he not again seated himself at
+the piano. He remained several weeks at the hotel, and often delighted
+us with specimens of his musical talent. He was considered by
+connoisseurs as the greatest performer upon the piano in all California.</p>
+
+<p>I never saw a miner without thinking how little<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_209">{209}</a></span> one could judge, by the
+present appearance, of his origin or past life, for there were those
+laboring in the gold mines of California who had held important offices
+of trust in the Atlantic states. The sons of wealthy southern planters,
+too, were there, laboring as hard as their fathers’ slaves at home, but
+reaping a far richer harvest of gold. People who at home never performed
+any manual labor, there would not hesitate to stand in water up to their
+knees for days and weeks together, if, by so doing, they could heap high
+their coffers.</p>
+
+<p>The good fortune of a lady in California, which came under my especial
+observation, I will here record. Upon the arrival at Marysville of one
+of the up-river boats, a fine-looking lady, whose age might perhaps be
+thirty or thereabouts, came to the Tremont Hotel, and desired an
+interview with the proprietor. She informed him she was entirely
+destitute of funds, as the journey from New York had been more expensive
+than she had expected, and begged, as a favor, the loan of twenty
+dollars. Could she obtain that amount, she intended to pursue her way to
+Downieville, where she hoped and expected to find a friend and relative.
+The proprietor accordingly proffered the required sum, although somewhat
+doubtful of receiving it again,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_210">{210}</a></span> or even of seeing the recipient. The
+next morning she resumed her journey; and the remembrance of this
+fine-looking widow was obliterated by the occurrence of other and more
+important affairs. Five or six weeks had elapsed, when, one day, she
+astonished us all by appearing in our midst. Upon meeting the
+proprietor, “Oh,” said she, “I have been <i>so</i> successful! and now I have
+come to liquidate old debts.” The nature of the success was this: She
+arrived at Downieville, found the one of whom she was in pursuit, and he
+built her a canvas house, procured her a cooking-stove, a long board
+table, and some wooden benches, and she commenced keeping a
+boarding-house. She soon had thirty or forty boarders, for each of which
+she received twelve dollars per week. One day, as she was sweeping her
+floor,&mdash;which, by the way, was nothing but the earth,&mdash;she saw something
+glitter. Upon examination, it proved to be a lump of gold. She searched
+farther, and found the earth was full of particles of gold. She
+instantly summoned to her presence the friend who had assisted her in
+locating herself in such rich diggings. They removed the table, benches,
+and stove. Upon the last-named utensil a dinner was in progress; but who
+would think of preparing a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_211">{211}</a></span> dinner, even if it were near the dinner
+hour, should they suddenly find themselves in possession of such rich
+diggings. This land, which she had appropriated to her own use, was
+situated in a central part of the town of Downieville. It had never been
+prospected, for the very reason that its appearance betokened nought to
+impress the beholder with the idea that gold existed there in such
+quantities.</p>
+
+<p>That day they two took from the kitchen floor, as she termed it, five
+hundred dollars, mostly in lumps. Every day witnessed similar success.
+As soon as she could think of leaving her treasures for two days, she
+hastened to Marysville to cancel her debts. Afterwards she became a
+frequent visitor at the house. I became very well acquainted with her;
+and one day she related the cause of her leaving home alone, to seek a
+home in California. She was married very young, and in opposition to the
+wishes of her parents. Unfortunately, her married life proved miserable
+in the extreme. After a lapse of years, she returned penniless, with one
+child, to the home of her youth, where she received a hearty welcome
+from her father; but the gentle, loving mother, whom she had forsaken,
+had gone long since to the spirit<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_212">{212}</a></span>-land, and her place in the family
+circle was occupied by another. That other regretted the daughter’s
+return, and manifested her disapproval by unkindness to the child. At
+one time, when the child was suffering intensely from sickness,
+child-like he refused to take his medicine, whereupon the grandmother
+struck him. In twenty-four hours after that, the boy was a corpse. After
+the burial of her boy, the daughter never looked upon the step-mother
+again. She told her father, that, if he would furnish her with means,
+she would seek her fortune in California; and she did, in the manner
+above related. She acquired a fortune; but the recollection of her boy,
+at times, would come floating over the ocean of memory, overshadowing
+all the bright hopes and sunny feelings of her heart.</p>
+
+<p>It was a novel sight to me to watch the emigrant wagons, as they passed
+through Marysville to their different destinations. How dusty and
+travel-stained they appeared, after a four and five months’ journey
+across those almost boundless prairies, after fording those mighty
+streams, whose waters had been navigated by nought save the red man’s
+canoe, effecting a passage through lonely cañons and over towering
+mountains, enduring almost every hardship the human frame is capable of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_213">{213}</a></span>
+sustaining, and finally had reached the desired goal!</p>
+
+<p>How emaciated the cattle looked; and no wonder, for how many long and
+weary miles they had travelled! I almost fancied those old oxen actually
+smiled for joy at arriving at their destination; yet many of their
+number had given out on the way, and their bones lay bleaching in the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>A lady who had travelled across the plains told me how sad it made her
+feel when she saw the cattle giving out on the way. Said she, “Those
+dumb beasts would express so much sorrow in their faces when they began
+to falter in their pace, they would look so wishfully into the face of
+the teamster, and low so mournfully, I knew they understood their
+situation.”</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the sufferings and hardships those emigrants endure
+while on their “winding way,” all is forgotten when they reach the
+settlements. Their swarthy, sun-burned faces are radiant with joy as
+they pass along.</p>
+
+<p>It is astonishing how much one of those wagons will hold. I saw one
+passing with eight holes cut in the canvas on one side, and a child’s
+face peeping out at every one of these holes. Besides the children it
+contained, there were cats, dogs, beds and bedding, cooking-stove, tin
+pans, and kettles.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_214">{214}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two emigrant wagons passed through town one day, each driven by two
+beautiful-looking girls&mdash;beautiful, although browned by exposure to the
+weather. In their hands they carried one of those tremendous, long
+ox-whips, which, by great exertion, they flourished, to the evident
+admiration of all beholders. Their surpassing beauty gained for them the
+appellation of the “belles of the plains.” In two weeks from the time
+they attracted so much attention, driving each three yoke of oxen
+through town, they were married to gentlemen whom they had never seen
+until they arrived in California, and who had never seen them until they
+beheld them as teamsters.</p>
+
+<p>I often saw ladies at the hotel who had resided eight and twelve months
+at different bars far up in the mountains, where they were the only
+females, and during all this time would not see a lady to speak to. You
+can imagine how fast they would talk, upon getting where there were
+plenty of their own sex.</p>
+
+<p>I was quite amused at an incident related by one of those ladies, who
+had been for eight months thus isolated from all society. Her husband
+kept a boarding-house, where he accommodated about thirty miners, which
+were all that worked at that<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_215">{215}</a></span> place. A short time previous to the
+occurrence of the scene here related, these miners had had some trouble
+with a tribe of Indians whose rancheria was not far distant. They had
+heard several times that they meditated an attack upon all the whites in
+their vicinity, and for some time they had been upon their guard; but,
+as they heard nothing from them, they had relaxed their watchfulness.
+One day, when they were all at work in the mines, and this lady alone in
+the house, instantaneously a deafening war-whoop rang in her ears. She
+ran to the door, and saw, at a little distance from the house, about two
+hundred painted Indians, armed with bows, arrows, and hatchets,
+advancing at a rapid pace. She rushed from the house, frightened half to
+death, (as she expressed her feelings,) and ran, screaming, to the spot
+where the men were at work. They, hearing the war-whoop and her screams,
+and seeing the whole tribe making such a rapid descent, naturally
+supposed they were coming to exterminate them; and if so, flight was out
+of the question. There was no alternative but to meet the foe, and fight
+with picks and shovels; for their fire-arms were in the house, and the
+Indians were between the house and where they were. <span class="pagenum"><a id="page_216">{216}</a></span>They directed
+Mrs.&mdash;&mdash; to flee across the river and into the woods on the opposite
+side, and secrete herself as quickly as possible. The river was so deep,
+the water so wild and dark-looking, and spanned by so narrow a timber,
+that, upon any ordinary occasion, she would have hesitated a long time
+before venturing across; but now, with the velocity of the wind almost,
+she crossed the timber, and rushed with headlong speed for the woods.
+Before reaching it, however, she passed several large excavations in the
+earth; and, thinking one of these would afford her a grand hiding-place,
+she jumped into it, and crouched down to await her fate. Said she, “It
+would be impossible to describe my feelings while in this hole. I
+expected every moment to see a dozen dark-skinned savages, glaring at me
+with their murderous, blood-thirsty eyes. I could endure it no longer: I
+must crawl out, and rush on. After great exertion, I got out, and, not
+once daring to look around, made all haste for the woods.</p>
+
+<p>“Reaching it, I would hide myself for a few moments, and then think,
+‘They will surely find me here; I must find a better place than this;’
+and then leave it in search of another. In this way I hid myself a dozen
+times. Finally, I climbed up into the branches of a large tree, and
+there remained, for how long I could not tell&mdash;the time seemed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_217">{217}</a></span>
+interminable. Then I heard some one shouting. I was so terrified, I
+could scarcely retain my seat. Soon I heard my own name called, and
+recognized my husband’s voice. <i>He</i> was alive, then, and all the others
+were murdered! When he appeared in sight, he was laughing. I thought him
+insane. Said he, “Come down from the tree; it is all right. I thought I
+should never find you. I have been hunting these two hours.”</p>
+
+<p>It seemed these Indians had started, in honor of some great occasion, to
+visit a neighboring tribe. They had painted and armed themselves, as
+they ever do when they start upon a journey to celebrate any great
+event. Their object in raising such a war-whoop was, doubtless, a
+sportive one; for they passed the miners with their countenances
+illumined with a broad grin.</p>
+
+<p>The lady, who was from the New England States, returned to her house
+with some idea of the sufferings of the early New England settlers. It
+was days before she recovered her usual equanimity.</p>
+
+<p>Another lady told me that she was the first who arrived at Cañon Creek,
+situated a hundred miles from Marysville, in the Sierra Nevada
+Mountains; and that, when she arrived at the top of the mountain which
+overlooked the ravine in which the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_218">{218}</a></span> miners were at work, they desisted
+from their labors, gave three hearty cheers, and came to the place where
+she was seated on a mule. Their delight was so great at seeing a live
+woman in their midst, that they actually lifted the mule upon which she
+was riding from his feet, and carried them both down the mountain. Those
+miners, who had lived so long in their little cabins, secluded from the
+world, deprived of the cheering presence of woman, knew then, if they
+had never before known, how to appreciate the opposite sex.</p>
+
+<p>As a specimen of the sort of accommodations a traveller is likely to
+meet with in a journey through the more unsettled parts of the
+mountains, I will describe a public-house on the trail (as it was
+called) that I once had occasion to stop at. It was a little log shanty,
+kept by a woman&mdash;of what color I was unable to determine, on account of
+the dirt upon her person. She hailed from out West, somewhere. I think
+it must have been far West, where the cleansing properties of soap and
+water were not often tested. There was no floor in this shanty but the
+earth, and even that looked as if it had never been swept. How could I
+stay, and eat, and sleep in so much dirt? There was no alternative;
+night was close at hand, and no other <i>public-house</i> within<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_219">{219}</a></span> many miles.
+She prepared us a <i>good supper</i>, as she termed it, in which, I presume,
+there was a good supply of dirt, although I did not stop to scrutinize
+it very closely. After we had partaken of the cheer set before us, she
+washed the dishes, turned round, and dashed the dish-water up in one
+corner of the apartment, wiped her hands upon her dirty apology for a
+dress, and sat down for a smoke. For sleeping accommodations, there were
+berths built up against the side of this shanty. I wrapped my own
+blankets around me, and crawled into one of them, where I remained until
+daylight. Right glad was I when it appeared, and I hoped to leave her
+domicile without being encumbered with any of her live stock; but in
+this I was disappointed.</p>
+
+<p>At one time there came down from the mountains the most comical-looking
+old couple I ever beheld. They were English, and had emigrated to the
+Western States ten years previous to the date of my story. They had been
+in California two years, during which time they had never left the
+mines. She worked mining with her husband. It was the commencement of
+the rainy season when they left the mines; and all she had on, to
+protect her from the weather, was a thin, faded calico gown&mdash;one which
+she had brought from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_220">{220}</a></span> England ten years before; and it was the best
+garment she possessed. Over her shoulders she wore a calico jacket, and
+on her head an apology for a sun-bonnet. Her husband wore a Mackintosh,
+which reached to his heels, and on his head an old hat, and oh, what a
+hat! Altogether, they were the most forlorn-looking couple one would
+wish to see. They carried penury in their very countenances. I pitied
+her so, I gave her a gentleman’s dressing-gown, which had been left at
+the hotel. It was rather soiled, to be sure; but then it was better than
+anything which she had. When she went away, she wore it off. They had
+started home to England, by the way of New York. When the bar-keeper
+requested him to register his name, he made a cross; and she was as
+ignorant as he. At night she asked me if I would give her a room with
+good fastenings to the doors and windows, as they had a good deal of
+gold dust with them. I inquired to know where it was, as they brought no
+baggage with them, except a little bag, which she carried on her arm.
+She said it was in belts around their waists. I told her, if it were
+much, she had better deliver it up to the proprietor of the house for
+safe keeping. Said she, “Oh, no, I would not lose sight of it for
+anything! I have<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_221">{221}</a></span> five thousand dollars in my belt, and my husband has
+the same.” I advised her to send it by express to New York, as they
+might be robbed on the way. She said they could not afford to pay the
+percentage for its transportation, when they could carry it, and save
+that money. So they started for New York by the way of Nicaragua.</p>
+
+<p>I often thought of them after they left, and felt assured in my own mind
+that they would lose their money before they arrived home. They were two
+very simple people, and betrayed by their looks evident signs of fear of
+robbery. The next news I heard of them was, that they were both drowned
+at Virgin Bay, while going from the shore in a boat to get on board the
+steamer. The particulars were these: The boat was loaded with
+passengers; and, it being rather rough, they became frightened, and all
+rushed to one side, and capsized her. This old couple, having so much
+gold about their persons, sank immediately; while those who were not
+burdened with gold were quickly picked up by other boats. Thus these two
+old people, who had lived in poverty all their days, died rich,
+clutching the treasures for which they had toiled so hard, and to obtain
+which, they had denied themselves the comforts of life. The school of
+poverty in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_222">{222}</a></span> which they had passed the greater part of their lives, had
+fostered the spirit of covetousness to such a degree, that it was
+finally the means of their losing their lives.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">While</span> in California, I had charge, for a while, of a little girl, whose
+mother had died just as the steamer upon which she was on board neared
+the wharf at San Francisco. The father, mother, and two children were on
+board the ill-fated Independence, which was wrecked, and then burnt, on
+the coast of Old California.</p>
+
+<p>When she commenced burning, the father hoped to save his family from the
+flames by swimming with them to the shore. Being an expert swimmer, he
+thought that, by taking one at a time, he might succeed in bringing them
+all to the land. He suspended his wife over the ship’s side farthest
+from the flames, wrapped the babe of ten months in a shawl, and
+consigned it to the care of a passenger until his return, took the
+little girl of four<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_223">{223}</a></span> years in his arms, lowered himself into the water,
+and commenced swimming for the shore. He clasped her little arms about
+his neck, told her to hold on, shut her eyes and mouth, and she would
+soon be on the land, and then he would return for mother and the baby.</p>
+
+<p>Long before they reached the land, she was senseless. In the meantime,
+the flames were increasing with such rapidity that it behooved the
+father to hasten back, in order to save his wife from the devouring
+element. He left the little girl senseless upon the beach, dove into the
+foaming surf, and was several times borne back to the shore before he
+could get beyond it. As he neared the burning wreck, the flames burst
+out afresh, forcing the frightened passengers to leap into the angry
+waters. The gentleman who held the babe threw it into the ocean to save
+himself. In its descent, the shawl became detached from it, and the
+child fell into the water a short distance from the mother, but beyond
+her reach. In one of its little hands it held a toy; and, as it was
+borne off on the top of a receding wave, its little plump arms were
+raised, and the mother saw the white, dimpled hand firmly grasping the
+toy. She could look no longer. Her babe was hastening on to swell the
+angel-band in the courts of the blessed!<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_224">{224}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When her husband reached her, the flames were close around; her dress
+had even been scorched. With her he started back to the shore. But very
+few could have breasted the angry waters as he did; but he was impelled
+by a motive which seemed to lend strength to his well-nigh exhausted
+frame. He reached the shore with his wife. Some one had found the little
+girl senseless, and had succeeded in restoring her to consciousness. The
+body of the infant was afterwards washed ashore, with the toy grasped in
+its hand. They made its little grave on the lonely beach, and placed it
+therein.</p>
+
+<p>For three or four days these shipwrecked passengers remained upon the
+beach, their only nourishment being molasses and vinegar. They were then
+taken on board a vessel, and carried to San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>The mother, weakened by exposure, and suffering from a hurt which she
+received in her side while being suspended from the ship, breathed her
+last just as she was nearing their destined port.</p>
+
+<p>Little Rosa (her name was Rosa Taylor) often told me the sad story in
+her artless, baby way. How impressive was her manner, when, seated in a
+little chair by my side, her dimpled face upturned,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_225">{225}</a></span> her large, dark,
+mournful eyes raised to mine, her rosy lips parted, to tell of the
+dreadful shipwreck; of the baby brother being drowned; of her being so
+hungry and cold on the beach; of her dear mother dying, and clasping her
+so closely in her arms, when she said, “Be a good girl, Rosa, and love
+your father; for he is all the one left to love you.” Then the dying
+mother said, “Raise me up, and let me look upon the land once more.”
+Then she lay back, and died.</p>
+
+<p>Rosa staid with me three months, while her father was at the mines. Then
+he came, and took her away to Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>I must not forget to mention the delights of stage-coaching in
+California. In the first place, the coaches are built of the strongest
+materials to be obtained, and are sufficiently large to carry from
+twenty to thirty persons. They are drawn by six large, beautiful horses.
+In the dry season, when the rivers are low, large boats do not run to
+Marysville, and most of the travel is effected by stages. I once rode to
+Sacramento and back in one of those six-horse coaches, when the
+passengers, inside and out, numbered twenty-eight. The thermometer stood
+at 110 deg., and the dust was so dense as to almost suffocate one. We
+were all obliged to <i>unpack</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_226">{226}</a></span> ourselves, and walk over all the bridges
+on the way; and then, so frail were these structures, that they trembled
+and swayed as the empty coach was being drawn over.</p>
+
+<p>By the time you arrive at the end of your journey, your eyes, nose, and
+mouth are filled with dust, as well as your clothes. One day’s ride
+ruins the clothes; but, if a person is blessed with a strong
+constitution, he may possibly survive several consecutive days’ riding
+in those crowded coaches. The roads between Marysville and Sacramento
+are very level, it being a vast plain the whole way.</p>
+
+<p>Journeying through the mountainous sections of the country in coaches,
+is perfectly awful. The passengers are obliged to alight, and push
+behind the vehicle, to assist the horses up every hill, and, when they
+arrive at the summit, chain the wheels, all get in, and ride to the base
+of the next mountain, in danger every moment of being overturned, and
+having their necks broken. For thus working their passages they have to
+pay exorbitant fares.</p>
+
+<p>One night, about eleven o’clock, a lady came into the hotel, looking
+more dead than alive. She was leading a little girl, of about seven
+years of age, who was in the same plight as the mother. They were both
+covered with bruises, scratches, and blood,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_227">{227}</a></span> with their garments soiled
+and torn. They were coming from Bidwell’s Bar, a place about forty miles
+above Marysville, in a stage-coach, in which were nine Chinamen. The
+coach was all closed, as it was rather cool in the mountains in the
+evening. All at once, they found themselves turning somersets. The coach
+was overturned down a steep bank.</p>
+
+<p>All the Chinamen, with their long cues reaching to their heels, were
+rolling and tumbling about in the most ungraceful manner imaginable.
+They were vociferating at the top of their voices in a language which,
+if spoken calmly, and with the greatest mellifluence, is harsh and
+disagreeable in the extreme. “And,” said she, “such a horrid din of
+voices as rang in my ears, it was scarcely possible to conceive of;
+which, together with the fright, was almost sufficient to deprive me of
+reason.” The driver was seriously hurt, and so were some of the horses;
+but the inside passengers escaped without having any limbs broken, but
+their cues were awfully disarranged.</p>
+
+<p>In the dry season, there were as many as a dozen coaches which left
+Marysville every morning, and as many would arrive every evening.
+Generally, they were all loaded to their utmost capacity.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_228">{228}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In California, two-thirds of the population seem to be constantly
+travelling (in search of new and rich diggins, I suppose). It was quite
+amusing to listen to the rigmarole which each driver had over, as they
+reined in their horses in front of the different hotels. The names of
+the different localities along their routes, which they would sometimes
+work into laughable doggerel, the cracking of their whips, and the jokes
+cracked upon one another, were quite diverting.</p>
+
+<p>At the time I was in Marysville, it was not safe to walk around in the
+suburbs of the town, in a dark evening, unless armed. Late one evening,
+as myself and husband were riding into town, we distinctly heard the
+click of a revolver, and two reports followed in quick succession. The
+balls whizzed past our ears, giving us no very agreeable sensation, I
+assure you. There was no moon, but it was starlight. Whether we were
+taken for people for whom some one was lying in wait, with the view of
+plunder or murder, or for what those shots were fired, ever remained a
+mystery to us. At any rate, it gave us such a fright, I never was caught
+out there again after dark.</p>
+
+<p>There was one house in Marysville which had been in process of erection
+four years, and was not<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_229">{229}</a></span> then completed. It was owned by a wealthy
+Spaniard, originally from South America. I went, one day, to view this
+curious structure. Under it were two regular dungeons, with heavy iron
+doors, which could be doubly locked and barred. People conjectured they
+were made for the purpose of holding his treasures, of which he was
+reputed to possess hoards. The whole building was the most massive,
+curious, complicated piece of architecture I ever beheld; and such an
+air of mystery and gloom as pervaded the whole place! It was impossible
+to elucidate the feelings one was sure to have, as they traversed those
+dismal-looking rooms. The sight of so much solid masonry seemed
+generative of the darkest designs. In one room were two very large, deep
+wells. Some of the floors were constructed of stone. The grounds were to
+be inclosed by a high wall. There were complicated wings, and high,
+gloomy-looking turrets, projecting in every direction from the main
+building. After being completed, it will present more the appearance of
+a prison than a private residence.</p>
+
+<p>Now, I will relate one hen story; not about a renowned Shanghai, but a
+genuine, old-fashioned, yellow hen. Hens at that time, in California,
+were among the things to be coveted: the meanest<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_230">{230}</a></span> specimens were sold at
+five dollars apiece. Some of the Spanish population kept quite a number
+of fowl. A lady told me she wanted to purchase a male hen; that an old
+Spaniard came to her house one day, who, she knew, had fowl to sell.
+<i>She</i> could not speak Spanish; neither could he English. She was very
+much perplexed how to make him know that she wanted a crower. She used
+every Spanish word she could think of with no success at all. Finally,
+she sprang up in a chair, flapped her arms, and crowed with all her
+might. That crow enlightened the Spaniard more than all her Spanish
+vocabulary had done.</p>
+
+<p>When I lived in the canvas shanty, a partition of cloth ran across the
+centre of the building. On one side of the partition stood my bed, and
+on the other my brother’s. An outer door opened into this room. One day,
+an old yellow hen walked in very unceremoniously, hopped upon the bed,
+and prepared to lay. Soon she jumped off, and left an egg. She conducted
+the whole affair with the greatest secrecy, not even indulging in that
+greatest luxury of all, cackling. Of course, I fed her, very glad indeed
+of her egg, as they were fifty cents apiece. The next day, she came
+again, and left another; and so she kept on, until she had laid<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_231">{231}</a></span> twelve;
+when she evinced symptoms of a desire to sit upon the nest. My brother
+took her eggs, carried them out to a ranch, and exchanged them for those
+that would be sure to hatch. He then placed them in a half barrel in the
+corner of the room, and set the hen upon them. In due time she brought
+out twelve little chicks. When they were about a month old, I sold them
+for a dollar apiece. She then laid another litter of eggs, and was as
+successful in raising another brood of chickens. Then, as we were going
+to leave the shanty, I sold her, chickens and all, for twenty dollars.</p>
+
+<p>After I had been living at the Tremont some time, I went to my room one
+day, and there, on the window-seat, was perched the identical old hen
+that I had sold. My window was open, and she had flown in. She appeared
+delighted to see me, and evinced her delight by singing quite merrily.
+She seemed determined to room with me, and I allowed her to remain until
+I could go and find the one to whom I sold her. He had moved, and was
+not to be found. Of course, the hen was mine again; but, situated as I
+now was, I could not accommodate her with a room in the house, and for
+which she seemed to have a decided predilection. I therefore placed her
+to board out on a ranch. She continued<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_232">{232}</a></span> to lay eggs and raise chickens,
+until I realized, from the sale of them, forty-five dollars. I then sold
+her again for five dollars, as she was getting rather old. In one week
+after I sold her, she died, from <i>grief, I suppose, at being sold</i>. From
+that old yellow hen I made quite a <i>pile</i>, as they say in California.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">I recollect</span> the execution of one man in Marysville, which created quite
+an excitement in town. One day my ears were assailed with the most
+piercing shrieks. Upon inquiry, I learned that a man had been arrested
+by the Vigilance Committee for stealing. A great crowd had collected in
+the street in front of the committee’s rooms, among whom was the wife of
+the man arrested; and hers were the shrieks which rent the air. Two
+little children were following her, crying, “You shall not hang my
+father! you must not kill him!” Finally the committee rendered him up
+into the hands of the law. He had his trial, was condemned, and
+sentenced to be hung. While he was in jail, await<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_233">{233}</a></span>ing his execution, a
+lady in town gave a little party for her children. While they were
+taking tea, she saw the two children of the doomed man going past. Pity
+for the children, so soon to be left fatherless, incited her to call
+them in, and seat them at the table spread with delicacies. After they
+had partaken of the treat, and gone out to play, the girl who was
+clearing the table missed one of the silver spoons. Something prompted
+her to go to those two children to inquire for it. She thought the boy
+betrayed signs of guilt. She took hold of his arm, and felt the spoon in
+his jacket-sleeve. He cried bitterly, and said he did not want to steal,
+but his mother told him if he did not, whenever he had an opportunity,
+she would whip him severely. Perhaps the father had been stimulated to
+commit thefts by similar threats from his wife; and certainly, if her
+evil propensities had so far gained the ascendency as to cause her to
+instil such principles into the minds of her children, to what evils
+would she not resort, to gain her object?</p>
+
+<p>The night previous to the day upon which he was to be executed, she made
+an attempt to fire the city, in the hope, doubtless, that her
+accomplices in guilt would effect his liberation while the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_234">{234}</a></span> attention of
+the citizens would be directed to the fire. She was, however,
+unsuccessful. Had the stable burnt which she attempted to fire, the
+whole city would probably have been destroyed. The owner of the stable
+had just returned from a journey, and was throwing some hay into the
+rack for his horse. In, the meantime, she approached, ignited a bunch of
+matches, and thrust them under the side of the building, directly
+against this hayrack. It blazed up, which the man no sooner saw than he
+caught a large blanket, threw it into the rack, and jumped down upon it.
+By this means, the flames were extinguished, but not, however, without
+quite severely scorching the man. She was carefully guarded after this.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, she begged permission to visit her husband in his cell.
+She was allowed to go, but not alone; but, somehow or other, she managed
+(they supposed) to slip something into his hand, for, a short time after
+the interview, when they went to take him to the gallows, they found him
+insensible, whether from fear, or from something which he had taken,
+they could not ascertain.</p>
+
+<p>He was taken to the gallows, and the forms of execution enacted,
+although he manifested no appearance of life whatever. While this last
+act was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_235">{235}</a></span> being performed, it required six or seven women to hold the
+wife. She was perfectly frantic.</p>
+
+<p>Every day, for some time after, might be seen this woman, dressed in a
+garb of the deepest mourning, holding each of her children by the hand,
+and traversing the streets, apparently in great distress. It was thought
+she made this public display of grief to excite sympathy. Soon after
+this, she disappeared from the city.</p>
+
+<p>It often made me feel sad, during my residence in California, to see the
+people recently from the Atlantic states so hopeful and buoyant in
+spirits, anticipating such rich harvests of gold, with which they would
+return to their homes and families, I knew so well the sufferings and
+hardships they would be likely to endure before they could return, if
+they ever did. But I ever refrained from casting a shade of melancholy
+over the bright future in prospective by prophetic warnings. I recollect
+one gentleman in particular, who was so sanguine of success.</p>
+
+<p>He departed for the mines, and, in three months from that time, was
+brought back, crippled for life! While blasting rocks, he had one arm so
+shattered that he was obliged to have it amputated above the elbow. Both
+eyes were rendered sightless for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_236">{236}</a></span> life, and the other hand and arm very
+much injured. What a pitiable-looking object he was! and how he begged
+of the doctors to use every endeavor to save the remaining hand and arm!
+He had a wife and three little children in the state of Maine, dependent
+on him for a support. It was in vain the doctors tried, by extracting
+piece after piece of splintered rock, to save the last hand. It was
+amputated at the wrist. How philosophically he bore his sufferings! Not
+a groan escaped his lips; but, by the workings of his countenance, one
+could perceive his agony was extreme. Money was raised in Marysville
+sufficient to defray his expenses home; and a fellow-townsman of the
+sufferer volunteered to accompany him as nurse. I never heard aught
+concerning him again.</p>
+
+<p>I often amused myself for hours, studying, not human nature, but mule
+nature. It is really astonishing to witness those pack-mules, and see
+the wonderful knowledge they display by their manœuvres. In packing them
+for a trip to the mountains, the Mexicans load them unmercifully. They
+make them carry loads weighing from three hundred to three hundred and
+fifty pounds, and strap the articles on so tightly that I should think
+it would stop their breaths. The poor creatures will<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_237">{237}</a></span> tremble under such
+an unmerciful load, and sometimes I have seen them, after going a little
+way, fall from exhaustion, and the weight of their load. Then those
+cruel Mexicans would beat them, until the blood would run from their
+noses; and, if they were very much reduced from previous hard usage,
+they would die, with that heavy pack strapped to them. These pack-mules
+have such a horror of going with their loads to the mountains, that,
+after they are packed, and are waiting for the remainder of the train,
+(these trains sometimes consist of fifty and sixty mules,) they will
+endeavor to secrete themselves away behind some building or wagon, and
+keep so very still and quiet, seemingly listening and hoping they may
+not be found. By and by, when the old, cruel Mexican warns them of his
+presence by a heavy slap with the piece of untanned hide he invariably
+carries in his hand, accompanied with the expression of <i>hippa, mula!</i>
+one can almost see a shade of the deepest despair cross the poor mule’s
+countenance, as he joins the train, which is going to travel many weary,
+tedious miles, over rough mountains, and through deep ravines.</p>
+
+<p>These trains are led by a horse, with a bell <span class="pagenum"><a id="page_238">{238}</a></span>attached to his neck. He
+is designated the bellhorse; and these mules have such an affection for
+him, that they will follow anywhere he goes. Generally, three or four
+Mexicans accompany each train. When night overtakes them, they unpack
+the animals, and form a sort of corral of the pack-saddles, which they
+place in a circle around the goods, which they lay in piles, each load
+beside the saddle upon which it belongs. The mules are turned out to
+graze. In the morning, after giving them their breakfasts, at a signal
+from the Mexicans, each mule places himself in a position to be packed
+beside his own saddle; and, what is very singular, each mule knows his
+own saddle, and never makes a mistake by placing himself beside his
+neighbor’s.</p>
+
+<p>When they return to the valley again, they are so delighted, that when
+they get to within a mile or two of the town, they commence running, and
+braying at the top of their voices. And then look out for the dust! Such
+clouds of it as they will raise in passing a house, is almost
+suffocating. You must hasten, and close the doors and windows, otherwise
+the house will be filled.</p>
+
+<p>“As stubborn as a mule,” is an old adage; and I have seen this maxim
+verified oftentimes. I have seen them so obstinate, you might kill, but
+never<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_239">{239}</a></span> conquer. Perhaps it is this stubborn nature which some of them
+(not all) possess, that causes the Mexicans to be so ugly to them. In
+order to pack some of them, they are obliged to be chained and blinded.
+What struggles I have seen between the Mexican and his mule! I have
+heard them say, that a real malicious one would purposely run, so that
+he could dash with great violence his pack against a rock or tree, and
+smash it to pieces; then, if it contained ought eatable, devour it with
+all haste before the driver could reach him. And many such “ugly capers”
+are imputed to his muleship.</p>
+
+<p>At one time, there was great excitement in the mountains respecting the
+mysterious disappearance of a man named Dunbar, who kept a public-house
+on the trail leading from Marysville to Onion Valley, on Slate Creek.
+These public-houses, by the way, were nothing more than little shanties;
+and the only servant generally employed about them was a cook.
+Travellers who passed and repassed Dunbar’s house, and found no one
+there but his cook, (a young man formerly from Lowell, Massachusetts,)
+naturally inquired for Dunbar, and was told that he had gone to San
+Francisco. Finally, the house was closed. Then suspicions were rife<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_240">{240}</a></span>
+that there had been foul play. About that time, as a hunter was passing
+the deserted house, his dog ran into the corral, and began scratching in
+the snow, and howling incessantly. His master in vain tried to call him
+away. He then went to the spot, dug away the snow, and discovered a
+man’s hand and arm protruding from the earth. He dug away the earth, and
+there was the body of Dunbar, bent double, thus tied with a rope, and
+stamped into that slight excavation.</p>
+
+<p>The cook, very naturally, was the first person suspected of perpetrating
+this horrid murder. He was traced to San Francisco and arrested, just as
+he was stepping on board a steamer bound to Panama. He was accused of
+the murder, appeared very much agitated, and finally confessed what he
+knew about the affair. One night, two people came from a mining locality
+near by to Dunbar’s house, and requested a night’s lodging. They
+frequently came there, and passed the night. That evening, they played
+cards with Dunbar; and, in the course of the evening, he had occasion to
+go to a chest which stood in the room, and deposit some money. In this
+chest was about five thousand dollars. Whether they saw it, or whether
+he told them he had it, he (the cook) did not know.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_241">{241}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One of the men came to him in the kitchen, and disclosed their
+intentions of murdering Dunbar that night, and securing his money, which
+they would share with him, if he would take an oath of eternal secrecy;
+if not, his life would pay the forfeit. Fear compelled him to agree to
+this proposal. Just then, Dunbar and the other villain came into the
+kitchen, and advanced to the outer door; whereupon the other one caught
+up an axe near by, and struck Dunbar a blow on the back of the head,
+causing him to fall. Then followed another blow, which completed the
+work of death. He was then buried as above described, and the money
+taken possession of by the murderers. Said he, “They offered me a share
+of their ill-gotten treasures; but no&mdash;I would not pollute my fingers by
+receiving one dollar of their blood-stained gold. Dunbar was a friend to
+me, and gladly would I have saved him from the horrid death which
+awaited him, had it been in my power so to do; but I was paralyzed with
+terror at the horrid revelation to which I had just listened. When they
+departed, I should have hastened to some authority, and made instant
+disclosure of the whole transaction; but was deterred from so doing by
+the fear of being murdered by those fiends in human shape.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_242">{242}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>“I then determined to leave the country; which determination I was in
+the act of putting into execution when arrested.</p>
+
+<p>“I declare to you, I am innocent of all or any participation whatever in
+the horrid affair.”</p>
+
+<p>The two murderers were at once arrested. They had changed their place of
+residence, but were soon ferreted out; and all three were sentenced to
+be hung at Slate Creek. My brother was present at the execution. The two
+murderers died as they had lived&mdash;hardened sinners&mdash;profaning and
+blaspheming until the last.</p>
+
+<p>The cook declared his innocence to the latest moment, and begged, even
+after the rope was adjusted about his neck, to be allowed to write to
+his wife. This boon was granted him. He then asked if he might make a
+few remarks. He commenced; and so eloquently did he plead for pardon, so
+heart-softening were his remarks, that, had not the mob been so
+exasperated by previous horrid disclosures made by the two murderers, he
+would and ought to have been pardoned. They had gone so far as to say,
+“All who are in favor of hanging this man, go down the hill; and all who
+are not, go up;” and, as the majority started to go down the hill, some
+of the more ferocious ones caught the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_243">{243}</a></span> rope, and ran with it, jerking
+him from the ground, and consummating a murder equally as cold-blooded
+as the one for which that innocent man had been arraigned.</p>
+
+<p>One more story of blood and murder I will relate, and then close the
+calendar of murders. As I was sitting in the parlor, one day, I saw the
+people in the street all running towards the front of the hotel. I
+stepped out upon the balcony to ascertain the cause of this unusual
+excitement, and beheld a sight that almost curdled the blood in my
+veins. There lay the form of a man, dead. His clothes were saturated
+with blood; his ghastly face upturned; and upon his death-stamped
+features rested a look of mortal agony. It was the body of one well
+known in our midst. He was coming from one of the mining bars above
+Marysville, driving a mule-team, when he was accosted by a man whom he
+overtook on the road with a request to give him a ride; which request he
+accordingly granted. The stranger jumped into the wagon, and took a seat
+behind the teamster. They conversed as they rode along, until they came
+to an unfrequented part of the road, when the stranger suddenly plunged
+a knife into the body of the teamster. It was a murderous blow, and
+carried death in its unerring<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_244">{244}</a></span> aim. He robbed the dying man of four
+hundred dollars, which he had in his pocket, and then decamped. The man
+was not instantly killed, but, before he breathed his last, was found by
+a traveller, to whom he told the story, and also gave a description of
+the murderer, who was afterwards taken and executed. The murdered man
+left a wife and family to mourn his loss.</p>
+
+<p>Many more murders, equally revolting, I might recount; but I have told
+enough to give one an idea of the crime existing at that time in
+California. I need not say, at that time; it still exists, and, I fear,
+ever will. Vigilance committees may, for a while, intimidate the
+blood-thirsty villains; but they can never rid the country of <i>all</i>
+those pests of society who have there congregated to feast their evil
+propensities upon the lives and property of the unwary and unsuspecting.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the year 1849, an enterprising, energetic young man, left the
+town of D&mdash;&mdash;, situated in one of the Western States, to seek his
+fortune in California. He was already in possession of a sum sufficient
+to defray his expenses to those golden shores, which held forth so many
+charms to an adventurous spirit, leaving but little remaining in his
+purse upon his arrival.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_245">{245}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Glittering visions of lumps of gold haunted his waking, as well as
+sleeping, moments. He was restless and impatient, until he found himself
+bounding gayly over the wild, heaving billows of the broad Atlantic.
+Being an orphan, deprived, at an early age, of the watchful tenderness
+of a mother’s love, the judicious precepts and examples of a father, he
+had learned early in life the salutary lesson of self-reliance. No sad
+yearnings filled his heart, as he paced the steamer’s deck on the eve of
+departure. The delights and social joys of a pleasant home left behind,
+the remembrance of a loving mother’s tearful farewell, rose not in his
+mind, to cause the tear of affection and regret to bedew his cheek. He
+was leaving none behind to mourn his departure. To him the future looked
+bright and beautiful, as it ever does to the young, hopeful, and
+aspiring heart, over which the chilling waves and bitter disappointments
+of the cold, selfish world has never rolled.</p>
+
+<p>There was one passenger on board, who, from his taciturn, repulsive
+manner, had made no friends, and formed no acquaintances. A few days
+before their arrival at Chagres, he was missed from his accustomed seat
+at table. He no more paced the deck with that quick, uncertain tread,
+ever accom<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_246">{246}</a></span>panied with those nervous, stealthy glances bestowed on all
+around, and which had occasioned so many remarks at his expense, by no
+means flattering or complimentary. He was confined to his berth from
+sickness.</p>
+
+<p>They reached the isthmus of Panama. All were hastening to secure their
+passage upon the steamer then waiting at Panama to convey them to their
+destined port. Each and all were struggling for themselves. The party to
+which the hero of my story had attached himself were toiling on their
+“winding way,” when their attention was attracted to a hammock,
+suspended between two trees, in which, to all appearance, lay a man in
+the agonies of death. They hastened to his side, and discovered, to
+their surprise, the repulsive stranger of steamer memory. In a feeble
+voice, he besought them, in mercy, to take him along, and not leave him
+to die alone! It appeared he had employed some natives to take him
+across the isthmus. They had quarrelled among themselves, purloined the
+last dollar from the sick man, (Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;,) and vamosed, leaving him to
+the fate which was inevitable, unless he was assisted and provided for
+immediately. The hot fever-blood was coursing wildly through his swollen
+veins; yet there was but one,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_247">{247}</a></span> in that company of men, whose heart was
+touched by the appealing looks of the apparently dying man, or whose eye
+moistened as the half-articulate words were gasped, “Oh! in God’s name,
+leave me not here, to die alone!”</p>
+
+<p>As some extenuation for the apparently heartless course pursued by all
+that company of emigrants, (all except one,) I will state their relative
+circumstances. They had purchased their tickets at an exorbitant price,
+with perhaps the last dollar at their command. The steamer was waiting;
+time was pressing; at such a day she was going to leave Panama, and, if
+not there, they lost their passage. Panama was crowded with people,
+waiting to get even a foothold upon the deck of any floating craft that
+would bear them to the desired haven. The delay that must necessarily
+accrue from assisting that suffering person would, in all probability,
+cost them their passage, and they would be left penniless in a foreign
+land.</p>
+
+<p>The call of suffering humanity was counterbalanced by the whisperings of
+self. They soliloquized, and hushed the breathings of conscience with
+thoughts like these: “I must look to my own interest. No one would lend
+a helping hand to raise <i>me</i>, if I were sinking. He did not make<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_248">{248}</a></span>
+friends with us when in health and prosperity; but now, when he is
+dying, he calls for succor from those he formerly shunned. I cannot
+assist him. He will probably die before night. I must hurry on.” So they
+did hurry on, all except Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;. <i>His</i> heart was boiling over with
+the “milk of human kindness.” Said he, “If I go on, and leave this man
+to die alone, the image of his pale, sad face will be ever by my side.
+The memory of my heartless conduct will cast a dark shade over my whole
+future existence. I <i>cannot</i> and I <i>will not</i> be so soulless.”</p>
+
+<p>In a softened voice he addressed the now nearly unconscious man, and,
+taking the feverish hand in his, said he, “Cease your anxiety. I will
+stay with you, and take care of you.” One by one, he saw all his company
+depart; and he was alone with the sick one, in the unbroken solitudes of
+a Granadian forest. He held a flask of water to the lips of the
+sufferer, and bathed his fevered brow. This somewhat revived him. Hours
+passed on, and they were still alone. Finally, two Carthaginians came
+along, and were induced, by the promise of a liberal reward, to carry
+the sick man to Panama. After a toilsome journey, which well-nigh proved
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_249">{249}</a></span>fatal to Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;, they arrived at Panama, but were too late for the
+steamer: she had been gone nearly a day. There was no alternative but to
+wait until they could secure a passage upon another. Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;’s funds
+were fast dwindling away before the exorbitant demands of the Panama
+“land-sharks.” Who, among those who were compelled to remain there days
+and weeks, when the tide of emigration was rushing irresistibly on
+towards the far-famed gold placers of California, can <i>ever</i> forget the
+merciless drain upon their purses?</p>
+
+<p>When able to converse, the invalid informed Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; that he had a
+valuable cargo on board a vessel then on her way around Cape Horn; and
+that, upon her arrival at San Francisco, in part payment of the debt of
+gratitude he owed to him, he (Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;) should receive a share of the
+profits derived from the sale thereof. He also spoke of a failure in
+business which had occurred a short time previous to his departure; but
+omitted to mention, however, the fact that he had acted very dishonestly
+as regarded that failure, and also that he had been very unceremoniously
+smuggled on board the steamer, to elude the vigilance of officers of
+justice. He expected his wife to join him soon in California: perhaps
+she might come on the next steamer.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_250">{250}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>They were detained in Panama four weeks, during which time he was
+carefully nursed by Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;. In the meantime, his wife arrived, with
+money sufficient to purchase a ticket for her husband. Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; had not
+the wherewithal to purchase one; therefore, he procured a situation as
+waiter on board. Upon their arrival at San Francisco, as the ship was
+not due for some two months, Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; concluded to proceed at once to
+the mines.</p>
+
+<p>Every day, at that time, might have been seen little companies of men,
+with their blankets and tin pans strapped to their backs, commencing
+their toilsome march into the interior. Far up those mighty streams they
+wandered, and penetrated far into the solitary fastnesses of those
+mountain gorges, where the foot of white man never trod before. Forming
+one of a party of miners who followed the course of the American River,
+was our friend W&mdash;&mdash;. For three weary months they prospected in those
+dreary wilds, camping out, rolling themselves in their blankets, with no
+roof to shelter them from the night air. The twinkling stars, far, far
+above them, peeping out a gentle good-night from the azure dome, were
+like messengers of hope to those poor wayfarers. Sickness overtook them,
+and death<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_251">{251}</a></span> thinned their numbers. Out of a company of ten, but three
+returned to San Francisco. One of those three was Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;. Sick,
+disheartened, and so emaciated he could scarcely support his feeble
+frame, he dragged himself to the door of the only hospital in San
+Francisco, and begged for admittance.</p>
+
+<p>For many weeks he lay hovering at the portal of death’s mysterious door.
+Finally, a strong constitution triumphed: this once, the destroying
+angel was cheated of its prey. He recovered slowly, and, at the
+expiration of many weeks, found himself treading the streets of San
+Francisco, weak, penniless, and alone&mdash;alone, in a land of strangers. He
+bethought himself of Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;, made inquiries concerning him, and
+ascertained that the ship had arrived which had contained his property;
+that he had disposed of it at an immense profit, and had gone to reside
+in Sacramento city. Slowly and painfully he dragged his weakened frame
+to one of the piers from whence departed the up-river boats, and gained
+a hearing with one of the captains, to whom he stated his situation. He
+very kindly gave him a passage to “Sac’ city.” When landed upon the
+Levee, it was mid-day. So weak was he that it was late in the afternoon
+before he reached<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_252">{252}</a></span> the residence of Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;. Upon inquiring for that
+gentleman, Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash; made her appearance. She did not recognize him at
+first, so changed was he by sickness and poverty. Then, in cold,
+heartless words, she expressed her sorrow at his unfortunate condition,
+hoped he would get along without any more sickness, and coolly closed
+the door in his face.</p>
+
+<p>Imagine his feelings as he turned from that door, sick in body, and
+sicker far at heart at this display of sordid selfishness and heartless
+ingratitude. He crawled back again to the Levee, where he remained that
+night, supperless, shelterless, and penniless. He again solicited a
+passage to Marysville, where resided an acquaintance of his who kept a
+hotel. To him he applied for a situation to work; for, sick as he was,
+his independent spirit spurned the idea of begging. He was at once
+engaged to wash dishes; for which service he received seventy-five
+dollars per month. After serving awhile in this capacity, he was
+promoted to steward, with an increase of salary. From this post he was
+admitted as a partner; and, from that day, “Dame Fortune” lavished upon
+him her richest gifts.</p>
+
+<p>Just three years from the time he composed his wearied limbs for a
+night’s rest, in the open air, on<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_253">{253}</a></span> the banks of the Sacramento, he was
+standing again upon the same spot, but under what different auspices!
+Had prosperity changed his noble heart, that, a little more than three
+years ago, listened and “wept for others’ woes”? Ah, no! the same
+generous impulses governed his every action. His upright, honest
+principles grew and strengthened with his fortune, instead of
+deteriorating, as is oftentimes the case.</p>
+
+<p>Curiosity prompted him to inquire after the welfare of Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;. He
+learned he was a houseless vagabond around the streets of San Francisco.
+From affluence, he was reduced to a state of beggary. His wife had
+proved faithless, and decamped with all the money she could get. In
+endeavoring to drown his sorrow in the intoxicating cup, he had lost,
+dollar by dollar, the remainder of his fortune. That for which he had
+sacrificed honor, principle, and every trait which ennobles and exalts
+man, had “taken to itself wings,” and the misguided man was bereft of
+all which renders life a blessing. From this “ower true” tale may be
+deduced a moral.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_254">{254}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> the fall of 1852, my brother was in the mines, on the north fork of
+the Yuba, about one hundred miles above Marysville. As the rainy season
+was commencing, and knowing his claims to be on the river, where they
+could not be worked except in the dry season, I was daily expecting him
+to arrive in Marysville, as he had written to that effect; yet he came
+not. Daily I heard accounts of large quantities of snow falling; and it
+finally fell to such a depth, that all communication with the
+settlements in the mountains was cut off before the winter’s supply of
+provisions had been transported thither. Fears were entertained that the
+mountain population would suffer incredibly for the want of food; and so
+they did. Finally, a straggling, emaciated, exhausted party arrived in
+town from Downieville, which is eighty miles distant from Marysville.</p>
+
+<p>Fifty miles of the route they had traversed over snow, which lay to the
+depth of ten and fifteen feet, and part of the time sinking, at every
+step, up to their arm-pits in it. Two or three of their number had given
+out and died on the way. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_255">{255}</a></span> reports they brought were dismal in the
+extreme. They said the entire male population would be obliged to leave
+Downieville, and get to Marysville, if possible, or die in the attempt,
+as there were only provisions enough in town when they left to supply
+the women and children.</p>
+
+<p>What anxiety I felt on my brother’s account, knowing that he must depend
+upon Downieville for his supplies! No tidings whatever could I obtain of
+him, and did not for four months. During this time, remnants of parties
+were arriving, completely exhausted, and reporting great distress in the
+mountains. At the expiration of that time, the express-men opened for
+themselves a passage through the snow. Then I received a letter, stating
+the following particulars:</p>
+
+<p>He had made every preparation for leaving his log cabin as soon as there
+was any appearance of snow, when one of his partners (he had two) was
+violently seized with the mountain fever. Then came the first fall of
+snow. What could they do? They could not leave him to die alone, and it
+was impossible to move him. For one month he was constantly delirious.
+He had no physician to attend him, and there he lay, day and night,
+talking to his mother and friends at home, in happy unconscious<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_256">{256}</a></span>ness of
+his deplorable situation. The snow fell until it lay to the depth of
+fifteen feet.</p>
+
+<p>Downieville was twenty miles distant, and thither one of them must go to
+obtain provisions; for they were entirely destitute of everything in the
+eatable line, and almost destitute of money. They had sent their gold to
+Marysville the day before the partner was taken sick, reserving only
+sufficient to defray their expenses down.</p>
+
+<p>My brother started to go to Downieville, previously assisting his
+partner to tie the sick man on to his pallet of straw; for, in moments
+of violent delirium, one person could not compete with him in strength.</p>
+
+<p>In an exhausted state he reached Downieville, and found provisions very
+scarce, and dear as gold dust. For ham he paid eighty cents per pound;
+for flour, one dollar and a half per pound; and everything in a like
+proportion. For one ten pounds of flour, which he bought during the
+winter, he paid twenty-five dollars. He wanted to get some corn meal to
+make gruel for the sick man, and succeeded in getting one pound, for
+which he paid the exorbitant sum of two dollars.</p>
+
+<p>With a back-load of provisions&mdash;which weighed sixty-one pounds, and cost
+one hundred dollars&mdash;he<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_257">{257}</a></span> started back. Several times, on the way, he
+felt as if he should never live to reach the little cabin; but he
+finally arrived there. “Oh,” said he, “what dreary days and nights we
+passed in that log cabin, listening to the moanings of the sick man,
+whom we were hourly expecting to breathe his last, surrounded and hemmed
+in by impassable barriers of snow! We could not wile away the time
+evenings by reading, for we had no oil or candles: a little grease in a
+tin plate, with a rag in it, was all we had to light in case of
+emergency. Our cabin was completely covered with snow. We kept a hole
+open from the door up to the surface. Mornings, upon going out, the
+foot-prints of large grisly bears would be all around in the snow, over
+the top of the cabin. When we had consumed all the provisions which I
+had taken up, we both started again for more, leaving the sick man
+alone; but he was wholly unconscious, and never knew of our absence.
+What little we could get this time was even higher than before; and the
+climate had a tendency to give us such good appetites. We boiled those
+ham bones until they were as white as polished ivory. For two or three
+days we subsisted upon water-gruel.</p>
+
+<p>“I then started again for Downieville, so hungry<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_258">{258}</a></span> and faint, I thought I
+should never reach there. I had no money; but a trader in Downieville,
+who was acquainted with my circumstances, kindly offered to furnish me
+with provisions, upon credit. As I was passing a hotel, I smelled the
+dinner, and stepped upon the stoop, wishing&mdash;oh, how earnestly!&mdash;that I
+had the wherewithal to procure a dinner. But I was ‘flat broke,’ as the
+saying is there, when one is out of funds. Presently I was accosted by a
+fellow who once mined with me in the country. Said he, ‘What is the
+matter, Bryant? What makes you look so down-hearted? Are you flat
+broke?’&mdash;‘Yes,’ said I, ‘and starving, besides.’&mdash;Not while I have the
+color,’ said he, and put five dollars into my hand. With this I bought
+myself a good dinner; and it was a wonder I survived it, for I assure
+you I did eat some.</p>
+
+<p>“Thus we lived on for four long, weary months. The fever settled in the
+sick man’s toes, and they all decayed. Finally, he began to convalesce;
+but it was six months from the time he was taken with the fever before
+he was able to walk. How grateful he felt to us, who had almost
+sacrificed our lives to stay by and nurse him! He would cry, and say,
+‘If I am ever worth a fortune, you shall share it with me.’ Before I
+left the country, he had been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_259">{259}</a></span> able to earn a little money. He came to
+see me, and proffered the whole, as he said, to compensate, in a
+measure, for my kindness to him. Of course, I refused to accept of one
+dollar; for he then looked too feeble to work.</p>
+
+<p>“During all these winter months, we never shot but one deer; and then we
+feasted! The snow lay to such a depth, we could not go hunting; and game
+was very scarce, too.</p>
+
+<p>“The provisions which we consumed during three months amounted to five
+hundred dollars, and then never had as much as would satisfy our
+appetites at any one meal.”</p>
+
+<p>My brother described the snow-slides in the mountains as grand and
+frightful. A body of snow would commence rolling at the summit of a
+mountain, collecting and increasing in size as it rolled, until it came
+with such velocity, and in such a mass, that it would snap off large
+trees in its descent as easily as if they had been whip-sticks. One
+could hear the rushing, roaring sound it made, for miles. It is
+necessary to build their cabins in such a position that they will not be
+in danger of annihilation from these slides. Cabins have been swept
+away, and the inmates killed, by snow-slides.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the rocks around the cabin began to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_260">{260}</a></span> get bare, they began to
+crevice for gold. One night, while his partner was preparing supper, my
+brother took out seventeen dollars (in little lumps) with a
+crevicing-spoon.</p>
+
+<p>A lady once told me, who had lived in the mountains, that every day,
+after her housework was done up, she would take her crevicing-spoon, and
+go out among the rocks searching for gold. She resided there one year,
+and, during that time, had collected five hundred dollars in that way.</p>
+
+<p>When the spring opened, my brother concluded to remain through the dry
+season, and for eighteen months he was a dweller in those mountain
+solitudes, and not once during that time visiting the valley. In his
+rambles, one day, he found the skeleton of a human being. What sad
+reflections the sight of those bones called up! He dug a grave, and
+buried them.</p>
+
+<p>The grisly bears were quite plenty around them; and one day, while they
+were out mining, “Old Bruin” made a descent into their cabin, helping
+himself to everything the place contained, and overturning tin pans,
+pots, and kettles, and everything within his reach. He swallowed all
+their butter, for which they had paid one dollar and a half per pound,
+and marched off, no doubt delighted with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_261">{261}</a></span> the feast he had enjoyed at
+the expense of the poor miners. When they returned, tired and hungry, to
+their shanty, to prepare their frugal meal, they were struck with the
+utmost consternation at beholding the havoc made within,&mdash;by whom, they
+readily conjectured, for there were his large footprints, very
+conspicuous. Then there was no alternative but to go, tired as they
+were, to Downieville, (twenty miles,) and back up more provisions. Then
+they baited old Bruin with a piece of meat, loaded their guns, and lay
+in wait for him all day and night; but he never came again. Whether his
+digestive organs were incapable of performing the necessary functions
+after such an expensive feast, or whether he was so cunning as to
+suspect they would watch for his return, they never knew.</p>
+
+<p>At one time an old hunter came to their cabin with his dog, and reported
+himself to be very expert at killing grislys. They took their guns, and
+accompanied him. They soon routed an enormously large bear, whose roar
+seemed to shake the earth. He first turned his attention to the dog,
+which appeared terribly frightened, and ran away as fast as his legs
+would carry him. Then he turned upon the brave hunters, who quickly
+followed the example of the dog. They fled to some tall trees,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_262">{262}</a></span> upon
+which there was not a limb for twenty or thirty feet from the base. They
+exerted every faculty to shin up those naked trunks. My brother, who was
+not a little frightened, thought that, at least, he was twenty feet from
+the ground, when, upon looking down, he found he was not more than five.
+How he redoubled his efforts! for the bear was making after them at a
+furious rate. After clearing the field of his antagonists, and giving
+two or three tremendous roars in honor of victory, he marched off into
+the surrounding forest. After this, they were engaged in several more
+successful bear-hunts.</p>
+
+<p>At one time, he was mining on Cañon Creek, and had occasion to cross the
+mountains to Slate Range. Many of these mountains are perennially
+covered with snow. When travelling in the mountains, clothes more than
+you have on your back are burdensome and unnecessary.</p>
+
+<p>After going a short distance from the camp, he hung an overcoat on the
+limb of a tree, set his carpet-bag at the foot of it, and buried what
+gold he had with him at a short distance from the tree, carefully noting
+the spot. He then pursued his journey. Upon arriving at his destination,
+his mining operations detained him there eight months.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_263">{263}</a></span> When he
+returned, he found his coat hanging upon the same limb; his carpet-bag
+was unmolested; and he found his gold just as he had left it. Clothes,
+in the mountains, are no temptation to a person’s cupidity, if he has a
+suit on his back.</p>
+
+<p>At one time, in company with two or three others, started to go from one
+mining locality to another. They were obliged to camp out for four
+nights upon the snow; and in some of the deep ravines, which were filled
+by the sliding of the snow into them, they judged it to be at least
+fifty feet in depth. Nights, they would roll themselves in their
+blankets, and lie down upon the snow, with nought above them but the
+blue dome of the star-lighted heavens, and sleep as soundly, and be
+visited by dreams as sweet, as ever blessed their midnight slumbers in
+nicely carpeted chambers, on beds of down.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Before</span> I leave California, I must give you a sketch of John
+Chinaman,&mdash;not the Johns in general, but a particular John, who lived in
+the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_264">{264}</a></span> Tremont Hotel as a chamber servant for more than a year. He could
+talk good broken English, was quick in his motions, and very neat. I
+liked John better than any other of the chamber servants, he was so
+faithful. Often I would be so amused at his remarks, that I would have
+to stop, and laugh heartily. Then he would look <i>so</i> perplexed, and say,
+“What you laughee so for, Missa Bessa?” He invariably called the name
+Bates, Bessa.</p>
+
+<p>He had been in California four years, during all of which time he had
+been out to service, never receiving less than one hundred dollars per
+month. He had about three thousand dollars out at interest, for which he
+received three per cent. a month. He was very penurious, never indulging
+in any luxury, save most excellent tea, which he kept for his own
+private use.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, when I would be sick, he would come to my door, bringing a
+cup of his tea, and say, “You drinkee this, Missa Bessa; make you well
+quick.” He placed implicit faith in the healing properties of his tea.</p>
+
+<p>His money, his tea, and his cue were his especial delight. Days when he
+would have a great deal to do, engaging his time until late in the
+evening,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_265">{265}</a></span> he would never retire, however tired he might be, without
+first combing, oiling, and braiding his cue. This he kept coiled around
+on the top of his head; and, instead of keeping the remaining portion of
+his pate shaved, as they generally do, he allowed it to grow, and kept
+it cut, after the fashion of the Americans. When he had his hat upon his
+head, one would never suppose he had a cue. He was the best-looking
+Chinaman I ever saw, and came from Ningpo.</p>
+
+<p>Upon first arriving in California, he went as house servant to Senator
+Gwin. Afterwards, he lived with a Mr. Peck. He would say sometimes,
+“Only three very good ladees in Californee.”&mdash;“Who are those,
+John?”&mdash;“Missa Gwina, Missa Pecka, and Missa Bessa. Missa Gwina, she one
+very good ladee; she talkee, laughee, all day long, eat watermelon,
+drink champagne; she one very good ladee.” John seemed to estimate the
+qualifications of Mrs. Gwin by the quantity of good and expensive things
+which she ate and drank. Watermelons were twelve dollars apiece, and
+champagne ten dollars per bottle. Then he would say, “Missa Pecka one
+very good ladee, but she too fatter. Missa Bessa, she no too fatter; she
+too smallee, too sickee (sometimes I would have ill turns); she go<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_266">{266}</a></span> home
+to her mudder; me go too. She too smallee; I be her servant.” He seemed
+very much attached to me, and was always ready and willing to wait upon
+me.</p>
+
+<p>One day, he was very unceremoniously rushed into matrimony. The
+particulars of this hurried marriage were as follows: John was one day
+passing along one of the streets occupied mostly by Chinese, when his
+ears were assailed with horrid screams which issued from a building near
+by. He burst in the door, which was fastened, and there found a Canton
+Chinaman unmercifully beating one of his slaves, a young girl of about
+sixteen years. John, who was very tender-hearted, could not bear to see
+that; so he knocked down the Chinaman, took the girl, whom he never saw
+until then, and ran with her to the hotel, and wanted me to secrete her
+in my room. It appears there is an almost deadly feud existing between
+the Canton and Ningpo Chinamen. As soon as the Canton Chinaman recovered
+himself sufficiently to realize what had happened, he collected about
+thirty of his partisans, and started to arrest John for assaulting him,
+and carrying off his slave.</p>
+
+<p>This was apprehended by the people at the hotel, who all felt very much
+interested for John. They<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_267">{267}</a></span> told him, in order to prevent the girl from
+being taken back by her cruel master, he must marry her. Then he could
+retain her as his wife; but could not be sustained in secreting away
+another’s slave. To this arrangement John readily acquiesced, and was
+hurried off to an esquire; an interpreter obtained,&mdash;for the bride elect
+could not articulate one word of English,&mdash;and the ceremony commenced.
+When John was asked if he would take that woman to be his wedded wife,
+his reply was, “Yes, me takee her: me lovee her; she lovee me. Canton
+Chinaman no get her, no whipee her. Me be good to her; take good care of
+her. She be my little wife!” And he ran on with such a tirade, they
+thought they should never check him.</p>
+
+<p>They were married before her master found her; and therefore he never
+recovered his slave. John had a small house in the back yard of the
+hotel, and in it he placed his wife. She was not domestic at all, and
+there she sat with her hands folded, when not engaged in embroidering.
+And there I left them when I started for the States.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the washing and ironing in California is performed by Chinamen.
+They take the clothes to the rivers, and beat them on stones and boards,
+which they place in particular positions. Their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_268">{268}</a></span> clothes-lines are
+stretched all along the banks of the river. After the articles are dry,
+they take them to their houses to iron. They starch every article, even
+to sheets and pillow-slips. Their mode of ironing is entirely different
+from anything I ever before saw. They have a copper vessel, shaped like
+a sauce-pan, and large enough to hold about two quarts of coal. The
+bottom of this vessel is very thick, and highly polished. They fill it
+with burning coal; then take hold of the handle, and shove it back and
+forth over the articles.</p>
+
+<p>They have a dish of water standing beside them, to which they put their
+mouths, and draw up such a quantity of the water, that their cheeks are
+inflated to their utmost capacity. All the while they are shoving this
+vessel back and forth, they are blowing the water out of their mouths,
+which falls like spray upon the garment, and renders it of an equal
+dampness. They iron very smoothly, and the clothes have a beautiful
+polish. For ironing dresses, they have differently shaped sauce-pans.
+They wear out the clothes very much beating them so; and it is almost
+dangerous to stand in the vicinity of their washing resorts, the
+shirt-buttons fly so like hail-stones.</p>
+
+<p>There is a place, a little out from San Francisco,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_269">{269}</a></span> called Washerwoman’s
+Bay, where the Chinamen take all the clothes from the city to wash. I
+once took a walk out there; and, before I came in sight of the bay, I
+heard the noise occasioned by the clothes being thrashed so
+unmercifully. While I stood listening, not well assured of the cause of
+that peculiar noise, a gentleman appeared, coming in the direction from
+whence the sounds proceeded. I asked him what that noise was. Said he,
+“You are in close proximity to Washerwoman’s Bay; and I would advise you
+to go no farther, if you value your life; for the shirt-buttons are
+flying so thick, and with such velocity, it is really dangerous to go
+too near.”</p>
+
+<p>A short time before I left Marysville, the city was visited by another
+conflagration, which came very near destroying the Tremont Hotel. It
+occurred between ten and eleven o’clock, one Sunday. The fire originated
+in the square directly opposite the hotel; and, what wind there was
+being fair to bring it directly to the house, the greatest consternation
+prevailed. The ladies were all dressed to attend church. They commenced
+packing their things, and throwing them out the doors and windows. The
+proprietor ordered every woollen blanket in the house to be produced,
+wet thoroughly,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_270">{270}</a></span> and then nailed them all over that part of the house
+most exposed to the flames. One part of the building had a flat roof,
+upon which barrels of water were kept standing, also a number of pails.
+This roof was covered with people, passing and throwing water to prevent
+ignition.</p>
+
+<p>While this was going on outside, the people were rushing in, and
+removing beds and furniture. In their haste to remove large pieces, they
+tore down partitions, and otherwise injured the house; breaking out
+windows, sash and all, to eject some piece of furniture. Individuals who
+had been boarding in the house, and had not deposited their money in the
+safe, ran to their trunks, took it out, and gave it to me for safe
+keeping. I had my pockets so filled with gold and gold dust, it was
+really burthensome to move about. The most valuable things were removed
+out on the plains, and I stood guard over them; for they required strict
+watching, there were so many standing round, ready to take anything they
+could lay their hands upon. Several times the roof of the hotel was on
+fire; but, by the strenuous exertions of the people, it was
+extinguished. The flames were darting over and around it, yet the
+building was preserved, at the risk, almost, of their own lives. The
+proprietor’s face was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_271">{271}</a></span> scorched quite badly, as he was ever in the van;
+and where the most danger was, there he was sure to be seen. The
+building was saved; but what a looking house to return to! Every part
+ran with mud and water; the partitions were demolished, and windows
+broken; all the blankets which belonged upon the beds, wet and dirty on
+the outside of the house. But they soon dried; and that night, by ten
+o’clock, there were beds ready to accommodate a hundred persons. How we
+all worked! I never recollect being so tired, before or since, as I was
+that night. When I left Marysville, the old hotel was standing in all
+its pristine beauty. It had withstood all the fires which had visited
+Marysville during the space of three years; but I had only been at home
+three months, when tidings reached me that it was burned to the ground.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> the spring of 1854, I bade adieu to Marysville, and started for San
+Francisco, preparatory to leaving for the Atlantic States. Three years
+previously, I<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_272">{272}</a></span> had entered Marysville, when it was a little town, built
+mostly of canvas. Distinctly did I recollect my feelings at that time.
+All those bright hopes and buoyant anticipations&mdash;how had they been
+realized? Alas! as are too many of the frail hopes of earth, they had
+been blasted and blighted in the bud. Now I left it a large city,
+containing ten thousand inhabitants. Blocks of brick, fire-proof
+buildings had been reared; churches also, whose spires seemed pointing
+to that better land; and school-houses, whose doors were thrown open to
+receive hundreds of happy children who had emigrated with their parents
+to this inland city. And I left it now, a sadder and a wiser woman; for
+there I had drunk deep draughts of sorrow, and had learned, by bitter
+experience, the fallacy of placing implicit confidence in earthly
+objects.</p>
+
+<p>I was borne down those magnificent streams for the last time; yet every
+object is distinctly daguerreotyped in my mind as I saw it then. Yes! I
+bade all those scenes a final adieu; and would that I could have bade
+farewell to heart-troubles also. But how tenaciously they will gather
+around the fountain of memory, ever ready to spring to the surface, at
+the mention of some name, or half-forgotten word either of kindness or
+reproof! It was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_273">{273}</a></span> a bright May day, the last I passed in San Francisco. I
+met there several of the tried, firm friends of other days; and
+certainly I needed their support and protection then, if ever. Varying,
+conflicting emotions crowded so thick and fast upon the tablets of the
+brain, and so gained the ascendency over the power of self-control, that
+it was impossible for me to support my trembling frame without
+assistance, as I walked down the densely crowded wharf to get on board
+the steamer that was to convey me from scenes of suffering to my
+childhood’s happy home.</p>
+
+<p>That day, three steamers left that wharf, within an hour of each other,
+for the Atlantic States,&mdash;the “Uncle Sam,” the “Panama,” and the
+“Cortez.” I went on board the “Uncle Sam.” She was the last to leave,
+and was crowded with passengers: she had on board about eight hundred
+people.</p>
+
+<p>When the gun was fired,&mdash;the signal for departure,&mdash;as the echo
+reverberated over the waters, I fancied it to be one unanimous farewell
+emanating from the breasts of all on board,&mdash;a farewell to the sunny
+vales and towering mountains, to the gold-studded placers and majestic
+streams, the deep ravines and rocky cañons, of beloved California.</p>
+
+<p>What different emotions swelled the bosoms of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_274">{274}</a></span> those persons who stood
+gazing, perhaps for the last time, on that great emporium of the West!
+Many perhaps, then on board, like myself, had threaded its sandy streets
+when in its state of infancy; had viewed the scene from Telegraph Hill,
+when nought but canvas shanties dotted the surface of those valleys,
+surrounded by numerous sand-hills, which had since been levelled to make
+room for elegant blocks of granite buildings, which reared their stately
+proportions, the admiration of thousands, and an honor to the energetic
+and enterprising projectors.</p>
+
+<p>Some were returning, from a residence in that city and country, to their
+Eastern homes, blessed with an abundance of the shining metal which had
+lured them to its shores, and perhaps entirely destitute of all those
+principles of virtue and honesty that ever shed a brilliant lustre over
+the human mind, and give to the humble, indigent, and sorrow-stricken, a
+passport to a happy home above.</p>
+
+<p>The possession of wealth does not necessarily pervert the human heart;
+and yet how often do we see the possessor utterly regardless of the
+feelings of the worthy poor! Wealth too often takes the precedence of
+intellect; and many times we have seen the gifted mind struggling
+through years of poverty, uncheered by even an encouraging word<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_275">{275}</a></span> from
+the rich, and finally sink in obscurity into an early grave.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">After</span> passing out at the Golden Gate, all three of the steamers were
+visible, each freighted with a rich cargo of human beings, and cleaving
+for themselves a pathway through the blue waters. The “Uncle Sam” and
+“Panama” were bound direct to Panama; the “Cortez” to San Juan.</p>
+
+<p>The first night out on board a crowded steamer! Who that has experienced
+it can <i>ever</i> forget the confusion, the sea-sickness, the
+dissatisfaction reigning among room-mates, the squalling of parrots, the
+crying of babies, and all sorts of annoyances incident to the occasion?</p>
+
+<p>For a person like myself, who was not sea-sick, and had no babies to
+worry about, and had only to enact the part of a silent spectator, the
+Babel-like confusion which reigned triumphant only served to divert my
+mind from my own sad thoughts, and I began to study the characters of my
+room-mates, through the science of physiognomy.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_276">{276}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In our state-room, which opened upon the main deck, were three berths
+and a sofa. My ticket called for the sofa, which was a nice, soft,
+velvet one, and far preferable to a berth. My room-mates were an elderly
+lady, and her married daughter, who had a babe eight months old. Then
+there was an adopted daughter, about sixteen years of age, and a noisy
+parrot. This elderly lady also had a son on board,&mdash;a great, over-grown
+boy, who had taken a second-cabin passage, with the idea of lodging in
+the room with his mother.</p>
+
+<p>The back of the sofa could be lifted up, so as to form a sort of shelf
+over the seat. This shelf, directly over the person who was lying upon
+the sofa, would be decidedly disagreeable and uncomfortable. The mother
+planned for that great boy to sleep upon this shelf, directly over me.
+To this I, of course, objected, knowing that he had a berth provided for
+him in the second cabin. Upon my objecting, the mother became determined
+that he <i>should</i> sleep there. I then appealed to the young man, asking
+him if he thought it would be very agreeable to lodge in a little
+state-room, with three ladies, a baby, and a parrot. He acknowledged it
+would not, and refused to comply with his mother’s commands. Therefore,
+I got rid of him; which by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_277">{277}</a></span> no means ingratiated me into favor with the
+mother, who was very petulant indeed (owing to sea-sickness, I presume).
+But, after she ascertained that I would not be imposed upon, (if I were
+little,) she became quite affable, and lamented frequently that our
+tickets did not call for one and the same room on the Atlantic side.</p>
+
+<p>The married daughter was a very lady-like, genteel sort of a person,
+totally dissimilar from her mother, and rather a victim to her (the
+mother’s) dictatorial propensities. The adopted daughter was one of
+those good-natured, immovable sort of persons, always pleasant, yet
+doing about as she pleased, although receiving a severe reprimand every
+five minutes in the day from the old lady. The baby was a little
+darling, inheriting his mother’s gentle disposition. The parrot was not
+a whit more quiet than its mistress. As soon as day began to break, he
+would begin to scream, after this fashion: “Come to breakfast;” “Six
+o’clock;” “Hot coffee;” “Mother! mother!” and such like expressions. If
+it was amusing at first, it soon became very annoying. There was one
+parrot on board so exceedingly profane and annoying, that its life was
+several times threatened by the passengers who roomed in close proximity
+to it. The woman to whom it belonged<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_278">{278}</a></span> valued it above price. It could
+speak the English and Spanish languages quite <i>fluently</i>. It used to sit
+nights outside the woman’s room. One morning, she missed its usual
+chatter, went upon deck, and it was nowhere to be found. Then what a
+time! Every one was ignorant as to its whereabouts; but a close observer
+might have detected a roguish twinkle lurking about the eyes of the mate
+of the ship, as he sympathized with the lady in her bereavement.
+Finally, the parrot was discovered, made fast to the mast-head of the
+ship. It was so frightened, it did not resume its usual chatter that
+day.</p>
+
+<p>After we had been at sea a few days, the weather, which had been
+agreeably cool, changed to oppressive heat. The air in those little
+state-rooms was so confined and unhealthy, it behooved those who were
+able, to rise early in the morning, and go upon deck to inhale the balmy
+air. But, then, it was rather unpleasant to be hunted about as we were
+by the sailors, who were washing down the decks. We would perch
+ourselves upon something; and then, just as we were congratulating one
+another upon securing a nice seat, swash would come the water in
+torrents, compelling us to run for another seat, which would only afford
+us a similar temporary<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_279">{279}</a></span> lodgment. If we escaped without getting our feet
+soaking wet, and our clothes somewhat draggled, we accounted ourselves
+fortunate in the extreme. After the expiration of a week, how the new
+faces began to appear! The decks began to get quite crowded. Some of
+them looked as if they had not been enjoying themselves very well while
+confined to their state-rooms. I had a great deal of sympathy for those
+afflicted with that disagreeable nausea; yet I often received kind
+wishes, to this effect: “How I do wish you could be sick, just for one
+hour! You would not look so smiling, if you felt as badly as I do.” And
+yet I was forced to smile, when looking at their wo-begone countenances.</p>
+
+<p>There were two or three female cabin passengers very sick with fever;
+and, oh, how they suffered, confined in a close state-room, with a
+raging fever consuming their very vitals!</p>
+
+<p>One of the greatest sufferers was a lady who had been brought on board
+on a bed. She was dying of consumption. She was sick at home, and her
+physician had recommended a voyage to California. Thinking she might
+receive some benefit from a residence in that salubrious climate, her
+husband had taken her there. She had not remained there long, before she
+felt convinced that she must die.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_280">{280}</a></span> Then she begged&mdash;oh, how
+earnestly!&mdash;to be taken home to see her darling babes once more. If she
+could be spared to clasp their little forms in one fond embrace, she
+could die happy. Her doom was sealed. Every day the hectic spot deepened
+upon that ethereal face; the racking cough increased in hollowness of
+sound; the fluctuating pulse grew fainter. She was fast hastening to
+“that bourne from whence no traveller returns.”</p>
+
+<p>The morning sun rose fair, but it shone upon a death-stamped
+countenance&mdash;upon loving lips forever silent&mdash;upon the cold hand which
+gave no returning pressure. She had passed away, with the names of her
+darlings upon her lips.</p>
+
+<p>As the sun was sinking into the western waters, the steamer’s course was
+stayed. The body of the devoted wife and loving mother was borne upon
+deck, covered by the American flag. Near by stood the bereaved husband,
+whose heart seemed wrung with the keenest sorrow. The stillness of death
+reigned on board that crowded steamer. In calm, serene accents, a
+minister of Christ breathed forth an earnest, heart-felt prayer; and the
+remains were launched into the bosom of the restless ocean. A splash,
+and all was over. The waves which had parted to receive that form of
+clay continued their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_281">{281}</a></span> ceaseless motion, and, by their ceaseless music,
+seemed to be chanting a requiem over the mother’s grave, far, far down,
+among the coral dells and pearly caves of old ocean’s unfathomed depths!</p>
+
+<p>If the spirits of departed friends are conversant with our spirits, if
+they are indeed ministering angels to those whom they loved while in the
+flesh, the midnight slumbers of those motherless babes that night were
+blessed and sanctified by the seraphic presence of the beatified mother.
+In their infant dreams, it is the knowledge of her presence which causes
+those radiant smiles to flit across their fair, innocent faces.</p>
+
+<p>Dear children! Many a tear of sympathy was dropped at the thought of
+their uncertain future, as the revolving wheels of the steamer carried
+us farther and farther from their mother’s grave, which they could never
+look upon!</p>
+
+<p>In a little while, all was gayety and mirth, bustle and confusion,
+singing and dancing, on board that floating structure. This being my
+first voyage after the eventful fiery one, my feelings were constantly
+agitated, thinking it possible a recurrence of those former scenes might
+be enacted. There were some on board who were acquainted with the
+history of my voyage out to California;<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_282">{282}</a></span> and they had repeated the story
+to their friends, until it had gained quite an extensive circulation
+among the ship’s company.</p>
+
+<p>One night, while seated in the door of my state-room, I was very much
+amused at the remarks passed between two of the sailors, who were laying
+down hose upon the deck, as was the usual custom, as a precaution
+against fire. Says one, “Dick, what are you laying that extra hose for?”
+“Why,” said he, “didn’t you know there is a woman on board who never
+went to sea but what the ship she was on board of burnt before reaching
+her destination?”&mdash;“There isn’t, though.”&mdash;“Yes, there is; and I haven’t
+the least idea the Uncle Sam will ever reach Panama.”&mdash;“Have you seen
+her? How does she look?”&mdash;“I don’t exactly know which one it is; but
+they say she looks just like any other woman.” Thus the conversation
+continued for some time, to my great amusement. But the spell was
+broken; the startling cry of “Fire!” was not heard; and no event of
+importance occurred, by which the nerves of the most sensitive could be
+shocked.</p>
+
+<p>We had two more burials at sea before reaching Panama. They were two
+firemen, who dropped dead while at their posts of duty, during the
+excessively hot weather.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_283">{283}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">After</span> twelve days and some hours’ sail from San Francisco, the old,
+walled city of Panama rose to view. The steamer’s gun was fired; she
+dropped her anchor; and a fleet of boats and bungoes were seen
+approaching. They neared and surrounded the ship. Most or all of them
+were manned by swarthy-visaged, half-naked Carthaginians, and a mongrel
+race of natives, whose appearance and gestures were equally as
+repulsive.</p>
+
+<p>Such a perfect Babel as that steamer’s deck presented! Some running to
+and fro, looking for baggage, some bargaining and bantering with the
+boatmen, boatmen fighting with one another for a berth next the
+gangways, ladies screaming at the top of their voices, children bawling
+in unison, and parrots joining in the chorus! Curses and oaths, singing
+and shouting, filled up the intervals of this hurly-burly scene. I stood
+agape with astonishment at witnessing the haste and recklessness with
+which they rushed, helter-skelter, down the gangways, and tumbled (some
+of them headlong) into the boats. More than one individual I saw
+floundering in the water; and carpet-bags and valises were floating
+about quite merrily.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_284">{284}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The hideous-looking boatmen kept up a continual jargon and fighting with
+one another; and perhaps, just as some person was going to step into a
+boat, some native would give it a shove away, and the person, pressed
+hard from behind, if not remarkably nimble, would get a ducking.</p>
+
+<p>I was determined to wait until the last, rather than go with such a
+rush; and I did wait, until the coast was clear. Then our party, which
+consisted of four or five ladies and gentlemen, secured seats in a boat,
+and bade good bye to the Uncle Sam. We had gone but a short distance
+from the ship, when we heard the report of a gun booming over the water.
+The steamer Panama, which left in company with us, had arrived. She had
+about five hundred passengers on board; and, with the eight hundred who
+had just left the Uncle Sam, the hotels in Panama would be likely to be
+rather crowded. It behooved us to hasten, in order to secure a place on
+the floor, if nowhere else.</p>
+
+<p>As we neared the shore, the water was full of natives, who waded off
+almost up to their necks, surrounded the boat, and arrested its
+progress. The boatmen are agreed with the natives on the shore to manage
+thus, in order to secure as many pieces of money as possible. No
+entreaties or<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_285">{285}</a></span> threats could induce the boatmen to budge one inch nearer
+to the shore. There was no alternative but to place ourselves upon the
+backs of these natives, and (as the expression is) ride post-back to the
+shore. Before placing ourselves in this rather unladylike position,
+there was much screaming, and laughing, and crying, and scolding; but it
+all terminated in one general post-back ride to the shore. The natives
+being so submerged, one could not judge well of their muscular
+developments; and some of the more corpulent ladies were afraid to trust
+their immense proportions on the back of a slender native, for fear of
+being dropped. This accident did happen to some of them; and it was ever
+accompanied with much laughing and joking at the sufferer’s expense.
+Finally, we were all landed,&mdash;some in one shape, and some in another.
+More than a dozen natives surrounded me, all holding their hands for a
+bit, (ten cents,) each claiming the honor of having carried me on his
+back to the shore. They all bore such a striking resemblance to one
+another, and having on no garments by which they could be distinguished,
+I was sorely troubled to know to whom I was indebted for my novel ride.
+It was settled, however, to their satisfaction.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_286">{286}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The natives took our trunks upon their backs, (not us, this time,) and
+our party started for the Louisiana Hotel. When we arrived there, it was
+literally jammed full; but, knowing we should fare no better by going
+elsewhere, we crowded ourselves in with the multitude.</p>
+
+<p>This was in the afternoon, and our appetites were considerably sharpened
+by the rather scantily furnished tables which had been spread on board
+the steamer for one or two days previous to our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Six or seven of us ladies were shown to a room on the second floor,
+which overlooked the court-yard in the centre of the range of buildings.
+Each story was surrounded by a balcony. Our room had no windows, but two
+very extensive doors, which opened like folding-doors on to the balcony.
+The partitions all through the house only ran two thirds of the height
+to the ceiling; so there was plenty of ventilation and plenty of noise
+circulating through the house. There was not a particle of paint or
+paper in the whole building. The walls and partitions were of rough
+boards, and these were all whitewashed. The great vaulted passages
+leading through the house, and the great wide, worn staircases,
+presented a cheerless and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_287">{287}</a></span> gloomy aspect. In our room were six or seven
+cots, over which were thrown two sheets and a straw pillow to each cot.
+This constituted the entire stock of furniture, if we except two old
+rickety chairs and our trunks.</p>
+
+<p>From the balcony opposite our door we could watch the proceedings in the
+cook-room; and it was amusing to watch those half-naked natives knock
+over the fowl, of which there were numbers in the back yard, about
+half-divest them of their feathers, hurry them into a kettle, and by the
+time they were well heated through, run with them to the tables, if they
+were not met on the way there by the half-famished passengers, who would
+snatch the half-cooked viands from their hands, and beat a hasty retreat
+to their rooms.</p>
+
+<p>In vain we waited to be summoned to supper. Finally, one of our party
+made a descent upon the cooks, and procured the wherewith to appease, in
+a measure, our hunger.</p>
+
+<p>The Uncle Sam’s passengers had intended to get mules, and start that
+night from Panama to cross the isthmus; and this could have been
+accomplished, had not the natives been so shrewd. When they saw the
+steamer Panama coming in directly after the Uncle Sam, they rightly
+conjectured, that,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_288">{288}</a></span> if they kept their mules out of sight until all from
+both steamers were landed, there would be such a demand for mules they
+could get any price they saw fit to ask. Therefore, when mules were
+called for by those of the passengers who reached the shore first, there
+were none to be found. No entreaty or persuasion could induce them to
+bring one forward; but we were told there would be plenty on the morrow.
+That afternoon a party of us took a stroll around the city, visited the
+oldest and largest cathedral in the place, walked upon the battlements
+which surround this ancient and once flourishing city, but now, in many
+places, wearing the aspect of decay and ruin. Some portions of the wall
+were falling into ruins; but in some places it was sufficiently wide for
+two carriages to drive abreast; but there were no vehicles there then.
+There were the sentry-boxes, built at short intervals along the
+battlements, which, in days gone by, had sheltered the wearied sentinel
+during his nightly patrol.</p>
+
+<p>I saw in some places the ruins of old churches and convents. Some
+portions of the high stone walls would be standing, out of the sides of
+which were growing bushes and small trees. The sight of those trees
+growing out of high stone walls at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_289">{289}</a></span> once attracted my attention. For how
+many ages must those old walls have been exposed to burning suns and
+deluging rains, to have thus afforded sustenance for those scraggy
+shrubs and trees! The stones were all moss-grown, and rank vines were
+running in great profusion over the decaying ruins. An air of silent
+desertion seemed to pervade those ruinous remains, which gave rise to
+melancholy reflections. They forcibly reminded one of the mutability of
+all things earthly. Just as the setting sun was casting its red beams
+upon the high and narrow stained-glass windows of the rich old
+cathedral, we were wandering under its vaulted roof, feasting our
+astonished senses with a sight of the massive gold and silver ornaments
+which were displayed in such rich profusion upon the walls. What an air
+of mystery and gloom seemed to surround us! How our voices echoed and
+reverberated in the far-off niches and recesses of this gloomy-looking
+edifice. Several times I was startled by the appearance of some old
+monk, with his cowl closely drawn, who would start from some niche in
+the wall, where he had remained unperceived, and, without uttering a
+word, hold out a silver plate, whereupon you were expected to deposit a
+piece of money. When once more in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_290">{290}</a></span> the open air, I experienced a sense
+of freedom from the feelings of mystery and gloom, which unavoidably
+cluster around one while traversing those silent cathedrals.</p>
+
+<p>We then repaired to the vestibule of a convent, not with the expectation
+of gaining admittance, however. There was a wooden frame which turned in
+the wall, after the manner of those yard-gates which turn upon a pivot,
+and on which stood a pitcher of water and a glass. After drinking, a
+person is expected to leave a piece of money beside the pitcher. Every
+few moments, this frame is turned by an unseen hand; but, when the
+pitcher and glass appear again, the money, if there had been any beside
+it, had disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>It being a moonlight evening, several of us ladies, accompanied by one
+gentleman, started to prosecute our walk through some other parts of the
+city. We passed through several streets, or, as they appeared to me,
+lanes; but they looked <i>so</i> gloomy! And, then, those old ruins seemed
+such grand lurking-places for the revengeful Spaniard, with his
+murderous stiletto, that we all frightened ourselves by such imaginings,
+and ran back again to the hotel as quickly as possible.</p>
+
+<p>What a night was that at Panama! So many<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_291">{291}</a></span> returning Californians, and
+some such wild ones, too! They seemed determined to make night hideous
+with their singing and shouting. There was little sleep for any one in
+Panama that night.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">As</span> soon as daylight dawned, the natives began to swarm in the streets
+with their mules, opposite to the hotels, and the people commenced
+bargaining for the use of them.</p>
+
+<p>The railroad was completed from Aspinwall to within eighteen miles of
+Panama. Eighteen miles! When we came to traverse the route, it seemed
+thirty, at least. As the rains had commenced, we were advised to travel
+the Cruces route, as the Gorgorna route would be impassable on account
+of the mud.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the passengers who had before traversed the Cruces route advised
+all the ladies to dispense with the side-saddle altogether, as it would
+be utterly impossible for them to retain their seats, unless upon the
+gentleman’s Spanish saddle. Most of us<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_292">{292}</a></span> were provided with India-rubber
+boots, and pants, and a large sombrero, as a protection for our heads.</p>
+
+<p>The natives asked twenty dollars for the use of a good, plump-looking
+mule, to take us to Obispo, at which place was the terminus of the
+railroad; but one could get a miserable-looking animal, which, in all
+probability, would die on the way, and leave you to prosecute the
+remainder of your journey on foot, for twelve and fifteen dollars. For
+my mule I paid twenty; and, many times during the journey, I had
+occasion to congratulate myself for having secured such a gentle, kind,
+serviceable little animal. I really became so attached to him during the
+journey, that I parted from him with regret. Generally, the natives from
+whom you hire your mules, and pay for them in advance, trot along with
+the company, and are ready, upon your arrival, to take the animal.</p>
+
+<p>There was great frolicking and laughing with the ladies while fixing
+away on the mules. I shall never forget <i>my</i> feelings when I found
+myself seated astride my mule, arrayed in boots and pants, with my feet
+firmly planted in the stirrups, ready for any emergency.</p>
+
+<p>About five o’clock in the morning, I left the hotel, in company with
+thirty or more of the pas<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_293">{293}</a></span>sengers. They all travelled in parties of
+thirty and forty together. Most of the children were carried across by
+the natives. They were seated astride their necks, with their little
+hands clasped across the natives’ foreheads; while they have hold of the
+children’s legs in front. Those who have infants generally get some
+gentleman to take them in front of him on the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>One of our passengers (a widow lady, with two little children) was very
+sick indeed when she arrived at Panama. She was advised to remain there
+for the present; but, although she felt convinced that her days on earth
+were numbered, she preferred to go on with the company. She was placed
+in a hammock: each of her little children (one twelve months, and the
+other three years) were carried on the backs of natives, who walked by
+her side.</p>
+
+<p>When only six miles out from Panama, she breathed her last-drawn sigh.
+They stopped, dug a grave for the mother by the lonely way-side, and
+deposited her remains therein. It was a sad spectacle. Well was it for
+those little orphans that their extreme youth prevented them from
+realizing the extent of their affliction.</p>
+
+<p>A kind-hearted woman&mdash;although the roughest-<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_294">{294}</a></span>looking one in the
+company&mdash;volunteered to take charge of the babes until they arrived in
+New York. Upon arriving at Obispo, a collection of two hundred dollars
+was taken for the children. Often, since, I have thought of that lonely
+grave by the way-side, with no stone, or even board, to mark the spot,
+and upon which no tear of affection will ever fall. She buried her
+husband in San Francisco, three weeks previous to her departure for the
+Atlantic States. She was getting home by charity; and, being a delicate,
+feeble woman, could not endure the fatigue of the journey. Deep-seated
+sorrow had sapped the fountains of life, and she died among strangers,
+far from friends and home.</p>
+
+<p>Two others of our number died, and were buried on the way. One was a
+gentleman whose mule had died, and he was footing it along, when he
+suddenly fell, and expired. Probably his death was caused by disease of
+the heart. One steerage passenger, who was walking across, died from
+over-heating himself.</p>
+
+<p>For the distance of six miles, our route lay over a good, paved road,
+and we galloped along, exceedingly delighted with the scenery, our
+mules, and the good road. “If this is crossing the Isthmus,” said one,
+“I shall never believe again the horrid<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_295">{295}</a></span> accounts I have heard
+respecting the trip;” but, before the termination of the journey, she
+thought the one-half had not been told. Soon the road became more
+rugged, and we began to enter the rocky defiles, ascend the steep
+mountain passes, and descend into dark, rocky ravines. The sun, which
+had been shining with tropical fervency, now withdrew his rays, and the
+rain descended in torrents. The deafening thunder seemed to shake those
+old mountains to their very base. In an instant we were soaking wet;
+for, oh, how it did pour! In a short time it was over, and the sun
+shining bright and hot as ever. Two such showers as this we encountered
+during that mule-back trip.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery through the mountains almost defies description. There are
+defiles through the solid rock, so narrow as to admit only one mule at a
+time; while, on each side, the rocks rise to the height of fifteen,
+twenty, and, in some places, thirty feet. These rocks are surmounted by
+tall trees, whose dense foliage, blending overhead, completely excludes
+the sight of the blue sky above.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes these narrow passes are so descending, as to render it almost
+impossible to retain your seat upon the mule. In some places there are
+regular stepping-stones, into each of which little<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_296">{296}</a></span> little holes have
+been worn by the mules’ feet, that so many times, and oft, have
+traversed those dangerous passes. I could compare the descent to nought
+but placing a mule at the top of a flight of stairs, getting upon his
+back, and riding down.</p>
+
+<p>Those mules are so careful and sure-footed, and so well accustomed to
+travelling through those frightful places, that there is no necessity
+whatever of guiding them. You have only to place the bridle over the
+pommel of the saddle, (those Spanish saddles have a high pommel in
+front,) and look out for yourself. In descending, we were obliged to
+lean far back on the animal’s back, and grasp the crupper with all our
+might. It seemed as if our safety depended solely upon the strength of
+the crupper. How I cried sometimes, with fright! but then I was careful
+not to let any one see me, and generally took the time for such
+ebullition of feeling when it was raining hard, and the water would
+unavoidably be coursing down my face.</p>
+
+<p>How careful those mules were! That day I learned to love them. In going
+down those rocky flights, they would hold their heads low down, then put
+one foot over and plant it firmly in one of those little holes, then the
+other in the same way, then bring their hind feet on to the same shelf,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_297">{297}</a></span>
+then go down on to another, and so on to the bottom. Then perhaps
+commence, and make an ascent equally as toilsome. They have nothing to
+eat or drink on the way, and never once attempt to nip the herbage that
+grows, in some places, by the way-side.</p>
+
+<p>Once, as there were about fifty mules all in a line, ascending one of
+those steep mountain passes, the one in advance, which was laden with
+three large trunks, made a misstep, and fell. These animals are so
+sure-footed that they never stumble except when giving out, and never
+fall, unless to die. This one was very weak, and failing fast, but might
+have succeeded in reaching the top of this dangerous pass, had not the
+trunks swayed on one side, and hit the rocks, thereby causing him to
+fall. When passing up those rocky flights, it is utterly impossible for
+a mule to step backwards, off one of those shelves, without falling, and
+as utterly impossible to turn the mule about, on account of the extreme
+narrowness of the way. The fallen mule, in making desperate attempts to
+rise with those heavy trunks lashed to him, as a natural consequence
+kept falling back, thereby crowding hard upon those behind him. I was
+seated on the fifth mule in the rear of the fallen one. Such a shout<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_298">{298}</a></span>ing
+and bawling as there was with the natives, who were trying to
+disencumber the poor beast of the trunks, and, at the same, prevent him
+from throwing himself any farther back, as, by so doing, he would
+endanger the lives of those behind him.</p>
+
+<p>How firmly my little mule planted his feet upon the shelf he was on,
+rounded himself into as small a compass as possible, and awaited his
+fate. He seemed to comprehend the whole; and, by his looks, I fancied he
+said, as a token of assurance to me, “I will die here rather than take
+one step backwards.” Finally they disengaged the trunks from the animal,
+and hoisted them up on to the banks above. As the mule was evidently
+dying, they cut his throat, and lifted him up also. This scene detained
+us more than an hour; for those natives seemed to make no progress
+towards extricating the mule from his painful position, but were running
+to and fro, bawling at the top of their voices, hunting ropes, and
+ordering one another. The passengers who were far behind were calling
+loudly to know what was the cause of the detention. Some were cursing
+the tardy natives; the women were crying with fear; and, if a
+daguerreotype view could have been taken of the scene, I think it would
+have had a tendency to deter some<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_299">{299}</a></span> from ever crossing the Isthmus of
+Darien on mule-back.</p>
+
+<p>Upon entering one of those defiles, the natives who are on foot (and
+there are generally quite a number with each party) go in advance, and
+keep up a loud shouting, to prevent any party which may be coming in an
+opposite direction from entering, as it would be death to one or other
+of the parties’ mules, should they meet. We occasionally passed over the
+carcasses of mules in these places, which had been killed to afford
+others a passage. We were so fearful that the natives would not make
+noise enough, that we joined in the shouting, and felt truly grateful
+when we emerged from the bowels of the earth.</p>
+
+<p>The day previous to our arrival at Panama, the steamer Illinois arrived
+at Aspinwall, with a load of passengers from New York for California. In
+crossing, we all met at different points on the way.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, upon arriving at a defile, we would hear a loud shouting
+within; then we would halt, rein our mules out on each side of the way,
+and await their egress. Some, upon emerging from the defile, looked very
+much jaded and fatigued; others were laughing and joking. How earnestly
+we eyed them, as they appeared one after another,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_300">{300}</a></span> thinking perhaps we
+might see some friend or acquaintance from home.</p>
+
+<p>Upon thus meeting, each party would accost the other with all the
+freedom and familiarity of old acquaintances; and some of the remarks
+which were passed were really laughable. Upon the back of one mule were
+seated two persons, a young man and an elderly woman. At sight of them,
+some of the gentlemen of our party hurrahed, which was answered by the
+woman with a wave of her calash, (she wore one of those large
+old-fashioned green ones,) and a “Hurrah for California!” “That is
+right,” said one, addressing the young man, “take your mother with you;
+if we had, we might have been spared much suffering.” And thus they
+joked. Some who had been rather unsuccessful advised the emigrants to
+turn back, even then. “Why?” said they, “is there not plenty of gold in
+California?” “Yes, there is gold enough; but you may not be lucky enough
+to get any of it.”</p>
+
+<p>They gave us no encouragement as to the route over which they had
+passed. All said, “Expect to find it as bad and worse than you can
+possibly conceive of.” This was disheartening, I assure you.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes the trail would be quite passable, and then one could enjoy
+the scenery. The trop<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_301">{301}</a></span>ical foliage is beautiful; and among the leaves
+and branches were hopping birds of beautiful plumage, rendering the
+woods vocal with their sweetest songs. Monkeys and parrots we saw in
+abundance.</p>
+
+<p>On the way we passed several hotels,&mdash;nothing more than canvas shanties,
+with large signs attached, bearing the appellations of “Astor House,”
+“St. Charles Hotel,” “Revere House,” etc. They were kept by Americans,
+and at them one could procure plenty of fruit and liquors of all kinds;
+but the wise ones were very abstemious, as a great deal of the sickness
+on the isthmus is engendered by eating and drinking to excess in a
+climate so excessively warm.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, how tired we grew! and yet, at every hotel, the distance seemed to
+increase rather than decrease.</p>
+
+<p>Upon first entering the forests on the isthmus, my attention was
+directed to what looked like ropes hanging from the trees. I soon found
+them to be vines that had run up on the trees, out on the branches, and
+were suspended therefrom in every direction. They were leafless, and the
+color of a rope.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Chagres River once only before<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_302">{302}</a></span> reaching Obispo. How dark
+and deep it looked, as we were going down a steep declivity directly
+into it! We were assured it was quite shallow, and not dangerous to
+ford; and that, if we allowed our mules to take their own course, we
+should be carried safely across.</p>
+
+<p>One young lady from Marysville was very much frightened, and kept
+constantly asserting that she should be drowned, she knew. Upon reaching
+the brink of the river, she suddenly reined in her mule, just as he was
+going to step in. He became offended at such treatment, and shook her
+off plump into the river. Such a screaming! You would have thought a
+dozen women were in the river. She was brought out, and placed again
+upon her mule, with instructions how to proceed, and was carried safely
+over. The water was not up to our stirrups, in the deepest place; but it
+looked black and deep, down in that dark ravine. I breathed more freely
+when safely across.</p>
+
+<p>Once we came to a little slough, over which was built a narrow bridge of
+poles. I happened to be ahead at that place, and called to know whether
+I should cross the bridge, or follow the trail through the slough, which
+looked very miry. They told me to let the mule act his own pleasure. He
+first tried<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_303">{303}</a></span> the strength of the bridge by placing his foot upon it, and
+feeling all about, as far as he could reach; then he turned, and went
+down the trail to the slough, and there reconnoitred in the same way;
+then he turned to the bridge again. I concluded he thought that the
+safest way of crossing. Upon reaching it, he stopped, made one leap, and
+cleared it at a bound, and came very near clearing himself of me, too. I
+was wholly unprepared for such an emergency, and came very near losing
+my equilibrium. All the other mules came leaping over except one, which,
+I expect, was so far gone, he could not jump. He stepped upon the
+bridge: it broke beneath his weight, and he fell. The lady was thrown
+from his back; and, altogether, there was quite a scene.</p>
+
+<p>After this, we met two gentlemen on mule-back, and of them we inquired
+the distance to Obispo. The reply from one was, “I should think it was a
+dozen miles, and the very worst road you ever travelled.”&mdash;“Oh, no,”
+said the other, “not so bad as that. This is the gentleman’s first trip
+to California. When he has crossed the Isthmus two or three times, he
+will not get so quickly discouraged. It is about two miles to Obispo;
+and rather a rough road, to be sure, but not worse than you have<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_304">{304}</a></span>
+passed, I presume.” How those cheering words revived my drooping
+spirits! I felt (and every lady of the company, I presume, felt the
+same) as if I could not retain my seat upon my mule but a little longer.
+Every part of my body ached so hard, I could not tell where the pain was
+most severe. If I had been placed upon the rack, and every joint drawn
+asunder, I could not have been much lamer or sorer than I then was.</p>
+
+<p>It was two o’clock in the afternoon, and we had been riding since five
+in the morning, without once leaving our mules, over a road which, for
+its rugged, uneven, and dangerous passes, beggars description.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly we heard the shrill whistle of a steam engine. Our lagging
+spirits revived. We toiled on, and reached the top of an eminence which
+overlooked the beautiful valley of Obispo; and there, far below us, we
+beheld a scene calculated to inspire the most despondent with renewed
+hope and courage. There was the terminus of the railroad; and on the
+track were twelve long cars, headed by an engine, which was puffing and
+blowing, and sending forth whistle after whistle, long, loud, and clear,
+its echoes awakening the hitherto unbroken solitude of the primeval
+forests of New Granada.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_305">{305}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Those of the company who had sufficient life and strength remaining to
+make any demonstration of joy, did so. As we descended the mountain, we
+were perceived, and welcomed by firing of cannon and loud cheering.</p>
+
+<p>Several hundred United States troops had arrived there, <i>en route</i> for
+California. They were all out on the plaza. Four or five large American
+flags were floating upon the breeze from the roofs of large temporary
+hotels which had been erected along the line of the railroad; and, as
+fast as the road progressed, they were transported along to the
+terminus. Here I saw a railroad for the first time since leaving
+Baltimore, a lapse of four years.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived in the valley, and halted in front of the depot, I
+suppose our forlorn, jaded appearance excited the sympathy of those
+there assembled, for many stepped forward to assist us in dismounting.
+They lifted us from our saddles, and placed us, not upon our feet,&mdash;for
+not one of the ladies in the company could stand,&mdash;but flat upon the
+ground in the mud.</p>
+
+<p>One lady in particular&mdash;who rode nearly the whole way, holding her babe
+on the saddle in front of her&mdash;fainted, the moment they lifted her from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_306">{306}</a></span>
+her mule, and it was a long time before she recovered her consciousness.</p>
+
+<p>Upon leaving Panama, she had consigned it to the care of a gentleman,
+who was going to take it across the Isthmus on the saddle with himself;
+but whose mule gave out, and fell with him. In endeavoring to save the
+infant from injury, he received several severe contusions on his back
+and head, from the effects of which he did not recover during the
+journey to New York. This so frightened the mother, that she took the
+babe herself; and, in consequence of thus exerting her strength to take
+care of herself and child,&mdash;when those who had no child to attend to
+could scarcely retain their seats,&mdash;she came very near dying.</p>
+
+<p>After remaining a few moments in the mud, I made an attempt to walk. I
+would go a few steps, and then fall; pick myself up again, take a few
+more steps, and then tumble the other way. I attributed my inability to
+walk partly to my India-rubber boots slipping on the muddy ground, and
+partly to the benumbed and stiffened state of my limbs. While I was thus
+staggering about in the vain endeavor to reach a hotel, a gentleman came
+along, picked me up, and carried me to the desired haven.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_307">{307}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Cars</span> were in readiness to take us immediately to Aspinwall, where the
+steamer North Star was waiting to convey us to New York. Many of the
+gentlemen took passage in them; but the ladies were too exhausted to
+think of proceeding farther that day; and, as the specie and baggage had
+not all arrived, there was no danger of the North Star sailing until the
+next night.</p>
+
+<p>So we all retired, and did not rise again until the next morning. Our
+accommodations at Obispo were similar to those at Panama&mdash;great rush,
+nothing to eat, and not much to lie upon.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, as we were well-nigh famished, a gentleman of the party
+invited a friend of mine and myself to breakfast with him, as he had
+been to the trouble of purchasing something, and hiring it cooked
+expressly for himself. The breakfast consisted of broiled chicken, fried
+plantains, and eggs. That meal cost five dollars, and it was the only
+one I had while at Obispo. That forenoon, our baggage arrived, and,
+while out on the plaza, it was exposed to one of the hardest showers I
+ever<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_308">{308}</a></span> witnessed. Wo to the contents of those trunks which were not
+water-proof!</p>
+
+<p>I must not leave the beautiful valley of Obispo without descanting upon
+its loveliness. It was inclosed by lofty hills, whose sides and summits
+were clothed with the most beautiful tropical foliage. There grew the
+tall palm-tree, laden with its milky fruit; the luscious pine-apple;
+also bananas, and plantains in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>There were, perhaps, twenty native bamboo-huts, thatched with the woven
+fibre of the palm-leaf, scattered about the valley; around the doors of
+which, and under the leafy shade of the lime and palmetto, lounged the
+indolent natives, of both sexes. And why should they exert themselves,
+when nature has so abundantly supplied their wants?</p>
+
+<p>They appeared perfectly happy and contented in their ignorance. No
+soaring aspirations for fame caused them to pass sleepless nights and
+anxious days. They were slaves to no goddess of fashion; and, if they
+had any pride, I cannot conceive to what point it tended, unless it was
+an overweening desire to excel in roasting monkeys. Oh, this was a sunny
+spot! I can see it, even now, in my mind’s eye, as it appeared when
+viewed from the top of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_309">{309}</a></span> that mountain height, after a day of toilsome
+travel. That old adage, “It is always the darkest just before day,” was
+never more fully illustrated than when, after such a toilsome, dangerous
+day’s ride as we had accomplished, that lovely, pleasant valley burst
+upon our view. That last two miles of mule-back travel I shall never
+forget. Whether it surpassed all other portions of the route in steep
+and dangerous passes, or whether we were so completely worn out with
+fatigue, that everything appeared more dark and gloomy than it really
+was, I cannot say; but that old maxim kept ringing in my ears, and
+cheering me on&mdash;“It is always the darkest just before day.” And,
+certainly, I could not compare that sunshiny valley, at the terminus of
+our route, to other than the brightest day that ever followed the
+darkest night.</p>
+
+<p>About four o’clock in the afternoon, we seated ourselves in the cars
+bound to Aspinwall. Those cars on the Isthmus had cane seats and backs,
+and were, therefore, not so comfortable for the sick, sore, and lame, as
+if they had been otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>We were borne over the track quite slowly, as the many short curves
+which the road made prevented their going with greater speed. The
+railroad seemed to follow the bed of the Chagres River.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_310">{310}</a></span> We crossed it
+several times. The scenery was grand and sublime, commingled with the
+beautiful. On one side of the track, perhaps, a towering mountain raised
+its rocky sides far above us; while, on the opposite side, the eye might
+wander far, far down a steep precipice, causing a shudder to run through
+the frame at the thought of an accident occurring at such a spot.</p>
+
+<p>How frightened the parrots, paroquets, and monkeys, must have been, when
+the iron horse first startled those leafy solitudes with his fiery
+snort! Never again will profound stillness reign triumphant along the
+course of the Chagres River. Those feathered songsters, of brilliant
+plumage, lured to its vine-clad banks by the gentle ripple of its tiny
+waves, will fly, startled from their leafy coverts, at the approach of
+the iron steed.</p>
+
+<p>By and by, the town of Aspinwall appeared to view. The country all about
+looked so sunken and marshy, as to impress the beholder at once with an
+idea of its unhealthy location. It was quite a place, however, and at
+that time seemed to be all alive with people. We passed from the cars
+directly on board the steamer, as it was near night, and we wished to
+get possession of our rooms before sailing. I ascertained the steamer
+would not get away before<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_311">{311}</a></span> midnight, as it was an almost endless task to
+select the baggage, and get it on board.</p>
+
+<p>Being very weary, I concluded to lie down, and get a nap in the first
+part of the evening, in order to be awake, and be on deck, when we left
+Aspinwall.</p>
+
+<p>When next I opened my eyes, it was broad daylight. Aspinwall was far out
+of sight, and we on the broad Atlantic.</p>
+
+<p>Amid all the bustle and confusion preparatory to sailing, even firing of
+guns, I had slept soundly. One lady, thinking I would like to see
+Aspinwall by lamp-light, endeavored to awaken me; said she spoke my name
+several times, and shook my arm, but still I slept on; and she left me
+to the enjoyment of my dreams.</p>
+
+<p>Upon going on deck, I met again all the Uncle Sam’s passengers, and saw
+many strangers who had come on board at Aspinwall. On the North Star I
+had only two room-mates, and was minus baby and parrot.</p>
+
+<p>Now that I was on the Atlantic, I felt that the distance between home
+and myself would be speedily annihilated. Nothing occurred worthy of
+note during the passage; and, on the ninth day after leaving Aspinwall,
+we made Sandy Hook. It is impossible to describe my sensations upon
+nearing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_312">{312}</a></span> my native land, after an absence of four years. I was returning
+<i>alone</i>, too, to the home of my youth. At times, my feelings were
+overpowering.</p>
+
+<p>When the health officer boarded us, I saw a sight that would have drawn
+pity from the breast of the most obdurate. It appeared that at Aspinwall
+there had been brought on board, and placed in the steerage, three sick
+individuals, the remnant of a family of eight persons, who had left New
+York for California a short time previous. On their arrival at the
+Isthmus, the father and mother had sickened, and died. The six children
+started to cross to Panama. They were robbed of all their money on the
+way; and, ere they arrived at Panama, the two eldest brothers and one
+sister died, leaving a young brother and two sisters, penniless and
+sick. In this condition they were found by some good Samaritan, brought
+back to Aspinwall, and placed on board the North Star. They were very
+sick indeed&mdash;in fact, but just alive; but their sickness was not of an
+infectious nature.</p>
+
+<p>While preparations were being made to lower away a boat in which to take
+them to the hospital, they were brought aft, and placed upon deck. One
+look at those poor, sick, emaciated children of sorrow would so stamp
+itself upon the pages of memory,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_313">{313}</a></span> that long afterwards their ghastly
+countenances, with their sunken, hollow eyes, ashen lips, and shrivelled
+forms, would present themselves in your day-dreams as well as your
+night.</p>
+
+<p>The eldest girl was about sixteen; the other might be fourteen, and the
+boy twelve. Not two months since, they had left New York, a healthy,
+happy family. Now the remaining three were brought back to die in the
+hospital. The eldest girl died in the boat while being transported to
+the hospital. The other two, I have no doubt, quickly followed her, as
+they looked more like tenants of the tomb than aught else.</p>
+
+<p>I must not forget to mention the fate of those two little orphans whose
+mother was buried on the Isthmus. The kind-hearted lady who took them in
+charge had faithfully fulfilled her mission. The children were well and
+happy, in their guileless innocence. A collection was taken for them on
+board the North Star, to the amount of three hundred dollars. This,
+added to the two hundred previously taken, was delivered up to the lady
+who had them in charge; and she was going with them to Cincinnati, at
+which place a sister of the deceased mother resided, and to whom the
+dying mother had bequeathed them.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_314">{314}</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> neared the city of New York. Soon its domes, turrets, and spires,
+became more distinct. We were fast nearing home. Home! How the mention
+of that word sent a thrill to my heart! It is scarcely possible to
+describe my feelings at that time; exuberant joy, mingled with sorrowful
+reminiscences which came crowding thick and fast over the ocean of
+memory, overshadowing all the bright hopes and sunny feelings of the
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the wharf late in the afternoon. It is needless to describe
+the bustle incident to the arrival of an ocean steamer, crowded with
+passengers. It is enough to say, that after being jammed, and jostled,
+and crushed, to your infinite satisfaction, you find yourself on board a
+hack, bound to one of the many hotels which intersperse the city.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, I was too sick to start for home, completely prostrated by
+excitement, I suppose. The next day, I left New York. The following
+morning, I neared my native town. The station was reached; I left the
+cars. I had purposely kept my arrival secret, the better to take them by
+surprise.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_315">{315}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In returning, after a long absence, to the home of our youth, we often
+find ourselves disappointed. A part of the brightness is almost sure to
+have passed away. Our eyes are changed, even if the things we look upon
+remain the same. The persons we have loved too are sure to have altered,
+and rarely for the better; for, if they be still on the bright side of
+life, the rose-bud is generally more beautiful than the rose; and, if
+they be on the autumnal side of the hill, we shall have to mark many a
+leaf that has fallen, many a flower that has faded away.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Before</span> laying aside my pen, I am constrained to say a word regarding the
+moral tone of society as it existed in California as early as the years
+1851 and 1852.</p>
+
+<p>Recollect, kind reader, that the state of society in California at the
+present day is as unlike what it was at the time alluded to above as are
+the golden tints of the eastern sky ere the glorious<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_316">{316}</a></span> orb of day bursts
+upon the view, and the dark, portentous gloom which overspreads the
+horizon, presaging a coming storm.</p>
+
+<p>To what cause could be attributed this lack of morality; which seemed to
+pervade the greater portion of the community at that early day, and
+which necessarily dimmed the lustre of the brightest gem in God’s
+magnificent footstool? Was it the atmospheric influence which surrounded
+them? or were the evil propensities of their natures more forcibly
+displayed for the very reason that they felt themselves beyond the reach
+of all those conventional forms of society which, in our puritanical
+country, serve to restrain, more or less, the inherent evil of our
+natures?</p>
+
+<p>Travellers who have wandered in the sunny regions of a tropical clime,
+and have mingled with the inhabitants, can scarcely fail to perceive the
+effect of that balmy, blissful atmosphere upon the human passions. Their
+quick, impulsive natures, warm and generous hearts, overflowing with
+love and affection; the bewitching naiveté of manner so characteristic
+of the females has often proved a theme for the poet and historian.</p>
+
+<p>California, although not situated within the tropics, many of its sunny
+vales possess all the charac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_317">{317}</a></span>teristics of soil and climate, and afford
+to one all the delights pertaining to a residence in those genial
+climes, and, at the time to which I refer, many of those captivating
+females had found a home within its borders.</p>
+
+<p>It is oftentimes the case that persons naturally pure, and possessed of
+good principles, by constant intercourse with those whose nationalities
+are less stringent with regard to morality, are almost unconsciously, as
+it were, led to adopt customs, and imbibe sentiments that at first were
+quite revolting to their natures.</p>
+
+<p>Ever willing to place the best construction upon another’s conduct, I
+would much rather infer that all of the evil which displays itself is
+the result of a vacillating mind, unable to withstand temptation, rather
+than of an innate desire to set at defiance the laws of God and man.</p>
+
+<p>Persons from all classes were to be found in California,&mdash;the moral and
+the immoral, the tempter and the tempted. Well may it call a blush to
+the cheek of our own sex, when I assert that the immoral predominated,
+as far as the female portion of the community were concerned. I have
+been an unwilling observer of transactions, which, had they been related
+to me, would have shaken my<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_318">{318}</a></span> opinion somewhat respecting the veracity of
+the narrator. Think of a town in California where the females numbered
+more than two hundred, and from that number the pure, high-minded, and
+virtuous could not have selected more than three or four with whom they
+could have associated, and have derived a sweet pleasure in the
+interchange of all those ennobling sentiments which shed such a halo of
+loveliness around fair woman’s shrine.</p>
+
+<p>Now, it is characteristic of my humble self to illustrate every subject
+by relating some event which has come under my personal observation, and
+which will, I think, serve to interest.</p>
+
+<p>Among the first who emigrated from the city of Boston to the western El
+Dorado were a mother and daughter.</p>
+
+<p>The daughter, yet scarcely fifteen years of age, gave promise of extreme
+loveliness. Carefully had that mother guarded her, lest a too early
+acquaintance with the chilling realities of life should rob her young
+and guileless heart of a portion of its pristine purity and undimmed
+faith.</p>
+
+<p>Of that mother’s early history but little was known; yet it was often
+whispered by the gossiping ones that the remembrance of her own sad,
+youthful experience had given that shade of mel<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_319">{319}</a></span>ancholy, that tinge of
+sadness, which at times shaded so deeply her yet fair brow. Whatever had
+been her bitter trials and disappointments, it was evident to a casual
+observer that the whole wealth of her affections, the deep, unfathomable
+love of a mother’s heart were centred on the well-being of her only
+child.</p>
+
+<p>The better to acquire a competency, wherewith to surround the loved one
+with all those appliances of comfort so desirable to a young and
+beautiful girl, the mother determined to seek a home within the
+precincts of the “Golden State.” Better, far better, had she immured
+herself and child in the catacombs of Rome than thus to have launched
+their frail bark upon the golden wave of a California sea.</p>
+
+<p>The most ambitious votary of admiration there at that time must have
+been satisfied, and even satiated, with the amount of homage, adulation,
+and heartless flattery, which was poured into their too willing ears.
+One can realize the danger likely to be incurred by placing a young,
+lovely, and attractive female in a country where virtue was regarded by
+the mass only as a name, and while she was yet too young to discriminate
+between the respectful homage of sensible gentlemen<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_320">{320}</a></span> and the
+soul-sickening, hypocritical, despicable flatteries which often flow so
+smoothly from under the moustache of the soulless, “vanity-puffed,
+shallow-brained apology” for a man. One saw many of those specimens in a
+day’s walk through the city of San Francisco, and also in her sister
+cities.</p>
+
+<p>Nightly they would convene in those gilded halls of iniquity, and pursue
+their soul-killing avocation. To be sure, they nightly won their
+thousands, little caring for the mental agony of their victims, whom
+they had robbed of the last ounce of dust, which they had been months,
+perhaps, accumulating, and which they had intended to have transmitted
+to their families in their far distant homes. Wait patiently, wife and
+little ones,&mdash;wait patiently for the father and husband to learn the
+best and most effective lesson ever taught by that inexorable
+schoolmaster, experience! If his first lesson is severe indeed, as a
+general thing, he is not over anxious to risk a second recital, and the
+absent wife may hope again to welcome his loved image to the now
+sorrowful home.</p>
+
+<p>These professed gamblers are never content with ruining those of their
+own sex, but are ever on the alert and the watch for victims from among
+the youthful, unsophisticated, and beautiful of the oppo<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_321">{321}</a></span>site sex; and
+Lillie Lee was far too captivating to remain long in obscurity.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the vigilance of her mother, she had formed an
+acquaintance with one of the most enticing of the gambling brotherhood.
+For weeks and months he had been gradually gaining a strong foothold
+upon her affections, by practising all those insidious arts which too
+often successfully entrap the uninitiated. He knew he was beloved, and,
+knowing that, felt secure of his victim.</p>
+
+<p>The affection bestowed upon that dissolute gamester was deserving a
+better object. Upon the promise of a speedy marriage, she left her
+mother’s roof; and together they fled to one of the interior towns.</p>
+
+<p>Who can graphically describe that mother’s anguish, upon learning the
+flight of her darling? Within a few hours of their departure, the
+bereaved, heart-broken, and nearly frantic woman was on the track of the
+seducer and his victim. She arrived about midnight at the town where the
+fugitives had taken up their abode. After travelling nearly thirty-six
+hours without once tasting food, or taking any rest, this grief-stricken
+woman procured a suitable disguise, and, arming herself with a “Colt’s
+revolver,” started on her mission of death.</p>
+
+<p>Grief had rendered her frantic, and, in the des<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_322">{322}</a></span>peration of the moment,
+she had made a vow, and registered it on the tablet of a broken heart,
+that she would avenge her daughter’s ruin by taking the life of her
+seducer; forgetting, in the frenzy of excitement, that she was assuming
+a power never intended to be usurped by the sinful children of earth.</p>
+
+<p>She threaded her lonely way through the nearly deserted streets of that
+inland city, never wavering in her murderous intentions, until she
+paused at the entrance of one of those brilliantly lighted
+gambling-saloons which spread their contaminating influence on all
+around. She entered, expecting and hoping to find the object of pursuit
+engaged in his nefarious vocation. She saw, however, only the usual
+appurtenances of these houses of sin. Elegantly attired women, within
+whose natures long since had expired the last flickering spark of
+feminine modesty, were seated, dealing cards at a game of Faro or
+Lansquenet, and, by their winning smile and enticing manner, inducing
+hundreds of men to stake their all upon their tables. The stricken
+mother passed through the crowd, but could nowhere see the object of her
+search.</p>
+
+<p>In this manner she visited all the houses of like reputation, with
+similar success. By some means<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_323">{323}</a></span> or other, she obtained a clue to their
+whereabouts, reached the door of their room, and, in a disguised voice,
+demanded admittance. After a long delay, the door was opened, and the
+despoiled and despoiler met face to face. Quicker than thought, the
+revolver was levelled at his breast, when a piercing shriek broke on the
+stillness of the night, and the words, “Mother! oh, mother! in Heaven’s
+name, desist!” burst, in tones of concentrated anguish, from the
+affrighted girl. In an instant she had thrown herself between the
+parties, and was imploring her mother to spare the life of him she
+loved.</p>
+
+<p>What power had changed that mother’s anger to grief too deep for
+utterance? Was it the vivid recollection of a similar scene, enacted
+long, long ago, in which she had participated? Did the form of her kind
+and sainted mother rise before her? Yes; she beheld again, in fancy,
+that calm, sad face, the memory of which had often disturbed her
+midnight slumbers. These harrowing recollections of the
+would-be-forgotten past were quite too overpowering. It was long before
+she was restored to consciousness; and not until repeatedly assured by
+that deeply dyed villain, that he would make ample restitution by
+marrying her daughter, could she be<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_324">{324}</a></span> persuaded to return to her hotel.
+The earnest pleadings of the mother could not induce the infatuated girl
+to separate from her lover. The mother returned to San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>Months flew by, scarcely heeded by the happy child. The long-deferred
+marriage proved no source of grief to her. She <i>loved</i>, and was happy.
+She had so much confidence in his honor, that she felt certain he would
+marry her. Honor! what a desecration of the word, when used in
+connection with such a fiend in human shape!</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps he would have married her,&mdash;for he seemed happy only when in her
+presence,&mdash;if he had not been indissolubly bound to another. Lillie had
+yet to learn that stunning truth. It must be so; yet how he trembled,
+and shrank from making a disclosure, which, he well knew, would chill
+the very life-blood in her veins!</p>
+
+<p>The wife of his youth, tired of living alone in her distant home, had
+formed the determination to join her husband, and follow his fortunes in
+the “Golden Empire.” Her decision was irrevocable. Even the time was
+appointed when he should meet her at the bay. He felt, at times, like
+flying with Lillie to parts unknown; for, depraved as he was, she, by
+her artless, winning ways, and rich wealth<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_325">{325}</a></span> of affection, had stirred
+the long-dormant fountain of love in his bosom. Yes, now was coming his
+hour of retribution; for he loved Lillie, and must leave her to the fate
+that almost always attends the deeply erring. Time was pressing; he must
+reveal all. It was done; and for hours she sat like one petrified. She
+could only articulate, “Mother! mother! receive again your heart-broken
+child!”</p>
+
+<p>They left, that day, for San Francisco,&mdash;he, to meet his injured,
+unloved wife; she, to be received in the arms of her wronged, but still
+loving mother. Under the influence of a powerful narcotic, which had
+been administered at her own option, she was conveyed to her mother’s
+house; and there we will leave her for the present.</p>
+
+<p>Behold how majestically that mammoth ocean steamer cuts her way through
+the sparkling waters of the bay! Now she gracefully turns her prow
+towards one of the piers, that is crowded with people. What varied
+emotions fill the bosoms of those there assembled! Some are eagerly,
+anxiously, expecting the loved wife, from whom they have been separated,
+perhaps for years; others, dreading, fearing, to meet those whom they
+have ceased to love, and wish they may never behold again. There were
+many who had formed connec<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_326">{326}</a></span>tions there that were hard to sever; and
+among the last named we find Lillie’s lover. On the steamer’s deck stood
+his wife, all eagerness to greet her husband after a two years’
+separation.</p>
+
+<p>The meeting once over, he felt he could sustain his part no longer.
+Pitiable wife! Henceforth she must be content with a bountiful supply of
+pocket money. She may revel in luxury, be surrounded with splendor, have
+every wish gratified but the one yearning desire to possess her
+husband’s love. That was denied to her. She felt the estrangement
+keenly. What a miserable life was hers! Night after night, as her aching
+head pressed her lonely pillow, she prayed that death might end her
+sufferings.</p>
+
+<p>Early morn, perhaps, would bring her husband home. Perchance his only
+word of salutation would be, “Well, wife, last night I won two, three,
+or four thousand dollars,” just as the case might be; for he was one of
+those successful gamblers who are well versed in all the tricks used to
+defraud the unwary. Yes, his coffers were heaped high with his
+ill-gotten treasures! What cared the wife for riches, if she must ever
+be treated with that cold, studied politeness, always so freezing to the
+loving recipient?<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_327">{327}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Daily I was an unwilling witness to the inward struggles, the pent-up
+grief, of the proud woman, for we both resided under one roof. She had
+learned all, everything. Whispered rumors were borne to her ears; and
+from some source she had learned where was bestowed the affection which
+of right belonged to her.</p>
+
+<p>In the interim, what had become of Lillie? Had she repented of her sin,
+and chosen purity’s white robe, with which to deck her faultless figure?
+Ah, no! She did not possess moral courage sufficient to brave the
+heartless sarcasm, the keen reproach, of that class who are ever ready
+to judge their fellow-mortals, and who ever forget that divine precept
+which teaches us that “to err is human; to forgive, divine.” And then,
+after taking the first step in wickedness, it is much easier to follow
+on in the downward track, than it is to turn, and tread the flowery path
+of purity, which leads to the mansion of happiness.</p>
+
+<p>After the lapse of a few months, she returned to the inland city; “for,”
+she remarked, “it is some pleasure to breathe the same atmosphere, to
+traverse the same streets, and frequent the same places of resort as the
+dearly loved.” She rushed recklessly into dissipation. Her extreme
+beauty, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_328">{328}</a></span> her adventurous, fearless course of conduct, won for her a
+widely extended reputation.</p>
+
+<p>One day she would appear in splendid Turkish costume, which admirably
+displayed her tiny little foot encased in richly embroidered satin
+slippers. Thus would she promenade the thronged thoroughfares of the
+city, the observed of all observers. Again she might be seen, superbly
+dressed after the fashion of that class of people denominated “fast
+men.” How gracefully she held the ribbons, and with what dexterity she
+managed her spirited horse, as she dashed madly on over the broad plains
+which surrounded the city. In the use of the cigarita she equalled, in
+point of fascination, the dark-eyed Spanish women.</p>
+
+<p>I have seen her mounted on a glossy, lithe-limbed race-horse,&mdash;one that
+had won for her many thousands on the course,&mdash;habited in a
+closely-fitting riding-dress of black velvet, ornamented with a hundred
+and fifty gold buttons, a hat from which depended magnificent sable
+plumes, and, over her face, a short white lace veil of the richest
+texture, so gossamer-like, one could almost see the fire of passion
+flashing from the depths of her dark, lustrous eyes. She took all
+captive. Gold and diamonds were showered upon her. Her<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_329">{329}</a></span> ringing, musical
+laugh seemed the signal at which trouble, care, and sorrow fled away and
+hid themselves. Lillie was not soulless, or heartless either; but yet
+the hilarity of despair seemed to have fast possession of her. Many a
+tear has fallen at the thought of her sad future.</p>
+
+<p>The unloved wife, finding that all efforts to reclaim her husband’s love
+proved futile, decided to return to the home of her youth. She took
+passage from San Francisco in a steamer upon which Lillie’s mother had
+also secured her passage; for, despairing of ever reclaiming her
+daughter, she was hastening to leave a country where so much existed to
+remind her of her fallen child. Thus were these two sorrowing females
+thrown together on ship-board; yet neither by word or look did they
+recognize each other. The mother still cherished the same revengeful
+feelings towards the seducer; and the proud wife rejected the idea of
+allowing, even for a moment, the mother of one who unconsciously had
+been instrumental in causing the sky of her existence to be shrouded in
+dark, impenetrable gloom, to suspect that she was suffering from
+unrequited affection.</p>
+
+<p>The husband was happy again with Lillie, until about two years after his
+wife’s departure, when<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_330">{330}</a></span> he was unceremoniously hurried into the presence
+of his Maker. He met his death by the glittering knife of one whom he
+had defrauded of his last ounce of dust. The one to whom he had done the
+greatest injury, the most irreparable wrong, wept bitter tears of
+anguish over his unhonored grave.</p>
+
+<p>There were many beautiful, depraved women in California who, previous to
+leaving their homes in the Atlantic States, had lived virtuous lives;
+many who had been the light and the life of the home circle&mdash;who had,
+indeed, been an ornament to the society in which they moved. Some of
+them were desirous of acquiring riches; and, hearing such glowing
+accounts of fortunes so speedily amassed in California, and also being
+possessed of an adventurous spirit, started, as they termed it, to seek
+their fortunes. Some went with their husbands, some with their fathers,
+some with their brothers, and too many went alone.</p>
+
+<p>To such as had felt and known all the inconvenience arising from a
+limited purse, and thought that if they were blessed with riches, or a
+competency even, their happiness would be complete,&mdash;to such, I assert,
+it was a dangerous country to go to, unless their principles were as
+firm as the rocks of their native hills.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_331">{331}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One beautiful young girl, in company with her brother, left a pleasant
+home, situated in the heart of the “Old Granite State,” and together
+they reached the El Dorado of the West. He repaired to the mines, after
+having procured a lucrative situation for his sister as governess in a
+wealthy Spanish family. Previous to leaving the States, she had been a
+music teacher.</p>
+
+<p>After awhile, she became tired of her rather monotonous life, and
+conceived the idea of going to one of the interior cities, to see if she
+could find something better to do. An offer was made of forty dollars an
+evening, if she would sit at a Lansquenet table, and deal the cards. At
+first she shrank with horror at the idea of thus appearing in a
+gambling-house. Then she thought of her widowed mother at home, deprived
+of all the comforts and luxuries so acceptable to the middle-aged and
+feeble. Said she, “What an amount of money I can earn in this way,
+wherewith to surround mother with every comfort, and yet not compromise
+my honor in the least!” Mistaken girl! No woman could long remain
+virtuous in one of those gilded saloons of vice, surrounded, as she must
+necessarily be, by men who looked upon the opposite sex very much in the
+same light as does the fish<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_332">{332}</a></span>hawk, which soars above the surface of some
+clear lake, ever ready to pounce upon, and bear off in its talons, any
+one of the shining piscatory tribe that, more venturesome than another,
+approaches too near to the boundaries of its native element.</p>
+
+<p>The night approached on which Jennie was to make her debût in the
+sporting world. With a palpitating heart, she repaired, in company with
+her employer, to one of the most magnificent gambling establishments in
+the city. Upon entering, the dazzling brilliancy of the surrounding
+appurtenances, the delicious strains of magical music which burst upon
+her ear, were perfectly enchanting; but, as she raised her eyes to the
+walls, (from which depended numerous pictures, all calculated to excite
+the grosser passions of man, and which were inclosed in magnificently
+gilded frames,) she drank in at a glance her position, and fainted. She
+was taken to her hotel, and left, for that night, to her own gloomy
+reflections.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, Jennie, if you had but listened to, and been guided by, the
+spirit-influence of your Guardian Angel, who is ever near and ready,
+unless obstinately resisted, to soothe the agitated, wavering heart,
+and, by sweet, whispered breathings of divine counsel, is able to lead
+the troubled soul to drink of the sweet waters of eternal happiness!<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_333">{333}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next morning came the tempter; and, by increasing in amount the already
+liberal sum proffered for her services, he gained from her a promise to
+make a second attempt the ensuing evening. She went, and this time
+succeeded in reaching the seat provided for her; but her head swam, her
+step faltered; and well it might, for the licentious gaze of hundreds
+rested admiringly upon her superb figure. Her transcendently beautiful
+countenance was suffused with the blush of maidenly modesty; and that,
+having been an unseen and unheard-of feature in such a place, was all
+the more refreshing for its scarcity.</p>
+
+<p>For some time she retained all her original purity; and then the angels
+in heaven might have wept, when they saw the tempter secure of his
+victim. She had launched her skiff upon the sea of immorality, freighted
+with that priceless treasure, virtue; and, in exchange for which, it had
+returned to her laden with gold, wherewith she could supply her dearly
+loved mother’s every want. Thus she lived for months; not quite so
+daring as Lillie, yet drinking sufficiently deep at the Lethean fount to
+hush all the whisperings of conscience. She finally terminated her
+profitable career of vice by marrying a wealthy, popular man in one of
+the mountain<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_334">{334}</a></span> towns,&mdash;one with whom she had lived on terms of the
+greatest intimacy for months before their marriage.</p>
+
+<p>She now moves in good society in one of our Eastern cities, surrounded
+with all the appliances of wealth, in possession of the love of a
+popular and respected husband. Who, among her numerous friends, would
+stop to make inquiries of her past life? And, even if her fashionable
+acquaintances knew of her past follies, I am rather inclined to think
+they would “wink” at them rather than lose a <i>wealthy friend</i>. Such was
+life as I saw it in California.</p>
+
+<hr class="cht">
+
+<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a>CHAPTER XXXII.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Now</span>, kind friends, a few farewell words, and my story closes. On my ride
+from the depot home, I passed the old, familiar trees; yet, thought I,
+they have certainly grown smaller. And the brook, too<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_335">{335}</a></span>&mdash;why, it was
+almost dried up; and the hills, how they had diminished in size! I
+insisted that some of them had been dug away.</p>
+
+<p>There, before me, was the old homestead, the spot where my heart first
+learned attachment; where my mind had first opened its eyes; where a
+mother had tenderly nurtured me, from earliest infancy.</p>
+
+<p>How sensibly the shadows of retrospection came creeping over my heart,
+as I first drew in sight of that endeared place! The roofs and windows
+looked familiar to my eye; the old trees waved their arms as of yore. I
+reached the door, raised the latch, and was locked in the embrace of
+father, mother, brothers. But the sister whom I had left there a
+light-hearted girl, had gone to gladden and cheer another’s home. She
+had pressed one darling babe to her bosom for a short space; then it had
+winged its way to blissful realms above, and left the mother desolate.</p>
+
+<p>Now, you have accompanied me on my eventful voyage to California, around
+Cape Horn, on board burning ships; have sympathized with me in sorrow,
+joyed with me in pleasure; crossed the Isthmus with me, astride a mule;
+in fact, followed me through “dangers seen and unseen;” and, finally,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_336">{336}</a></span>
+reached with me the “old homestead.” And, if you have been repaid for
+the amount of time and patience expended, I am heartily glad of it; and,
+if you have not, I hope I shall ever remain in “blissful ignorance” of
+the loss. Good-by!</p>
+
+<p class="fint">T H E &#160; E N D.</p>
+
+<hr class="full">
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75851 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+book #75851 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/75851)