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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..78dc906 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69906 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69906) diff --git a/old/69906-0.txt b/old/69906-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 96583b0..0000000 --- a/old/69906-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4255 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Through lands that were dark, by F. H. -Hawkins - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Through lands that were dark - -Author: F. H. Hawkins - -Release Date: January 29, 2023 [eBook #69906] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE -DARK *** - - - - - - THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE DARK - - [Illustration: KHAMA, THE CHRISTIAN CHIEF OF THE BAMANGWATO TRIBE.] - - - - - THROUGH LANDS - THAT WERE DARK - - Being a Record of a Year’s Missionary Journey - in Africa and Madagascar - - - BY - F. H. HAWKINS, LL.B., - - Foreign Secretary of the London Missionary Society for Africa, China - and Madagascar. - - - “_To the Darkness and the Sorrow of the Night - Came the Wonder and the Glory of the Light_” - - - LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY - 16, New Bridge Street, London, E.C. - 1914 - - - - - Dedication - - -This little Book is dedicated (without permission) to the Friend whose -generosity made it possible for the journey herein recorded to be taken -free of any expense to the London Missionary Society. - - - - - Table of Contents - - - PAGE - - FOREWORD 9 - - A. SOUTH AFRICA: - - I. Darkness and Light 13 - - II. The Light Spreading Northward 27 - - III. Tiger Kloof--“A Lamp Shining in a Dark Place” 62 - - - B. CENTRAL AFRICA: - - IV. The Heart of the Dark Continent 66 - - V. The Brightness of His Rising 79 - - - C. MADAGASCAR: - - VI. Tananarive--“A City set on a Hill” 106 - - VII. Imerina Country Districts--“Fields White Unto Harvest” 126 - - VIII. Betsileo--“The Sombre Fringes of the Night” 139 - - IX. Glad and Golden Days 149 - - - - - List of Illustrations - - - PAGE - - Chief Khama _Frontispiece_ - - 1. Map of South Africa 15 - - 2. Kuruman Mission House _facing_ 34 - - 3. The New Kuruman Waggon ” 34 - - 4. Tiger Kloof ” 64 - - 5. Map of Central Africa 67 - - 6. Missionaries’ Children _facing_ 70 - - 7. Native with Fish Trap ” 82 - - 8. Kafukula Mission House ” 95 - - 9. Map of Madagascar 109 - - 10. Malagasy Girls at Girls’ Home _facing_ 121 - - 11. Dr. and Mrs. Sibree ” 152 - - - - - I hear a clear voice calling, calling, - Calling out of the night, - O, you who live in the Light of Life, - Bring us the Light! - - We are bound in the chains of darkness, - Our eyes received no sight, - O, you who have never been bound or blind, - Bring us the Light! - - We live amid turmoil and horror, - Where might is the only right, - O, you to whom life is liberty, - Bring us the Light! - - We stand in the ashes of ruins, - We are ready to fight the fight, - O, you whose feet are firm on the Rock, - Bring us the Light! - - You cannot--you shall not forget us, - Out here in the darkest night, - We are drowning men, we are dying men, - Bring, O, bring us the Light! - - JOHN OXENHAM. - - - - - FOREWORD - - -This short record of a year’s missionary journey in Africa and -Madagascar is written at the request of the Directors of the London -Missionary Society, and is based upon a series of Journal Letters -written to my family and friends while I have been on my travels. This -fact must be my excuse for writing in the first person. This little -book has been prepared in the midst of the pressure of Secretarial work. - -My visit to South Africa was a Secretarial visit. In Central Africa -and Madagascar I formed one of a Deputation from the London Missionary -Society. My colleague in Central Africa was the Rev. W. S. Houghton of -Birmingham, and in Madagascar the other members of the Deputation were -Mr. Houghton and Mr. Talbot E. B. Wilson of Sheffield. - -It is not my purpose to attempt to give any description of the three -Mission Fields which it has been my privilege to visit during the -journey. Details with regard to the countries and the peoples will be -found in three Handbooks published by the Society.[1] - -Nor does the discussion of questions of missionary policy or any -account of the details of the work in the various fields fall within -the scope of this book. These matters have been dealt with in Reports -prepared for the Directors of the Society. Further information with -regard to all the fields can be obtained in the Society’s Annual -Report. Some account of Madagascar and the missionary work there -will be also found in a book just published, entitled “Madagascar -for Christ,” being the Joint Report of the Simultaneous Deputations -from the London Missionary Society, The Friends’ Foreign Mission -Association, and the Paris Missionary Society, which have recently -returned from Madagascar.[2] - -The journey has been one of great fascination. From the point of view -of the traveller it has been full of interest. From the point of view -of a Secretary of a Missionary Society carrying on work in the lands -visited, the outstanding impression has been that of the growing -Christian Church. In Central Africa that Church is in its infancy, -but it is an infancy full of promise. In South Africa and Madagascar -the Native Church is nearly a century old. Its foundations have been -well and truly laid, and it exhibits all the signs of healthy life and -growth. As one travelled from station to station and came into contact -with the Native Church in all stages of development and met the Native -leaders of that Church, one looked into the future and saw a vision -of a Church which would one day become not only self-supporting and -self-governing, but so possessed with the missionary spirit that it -would be an instrument in God’s hands for evangelising the peoples -amongst whom it is now set as a lamp in the night. One hundred years -ago and less these lands were in gross darkness; to-day the curtains -of the night are being lifted and long closed doors are wide open to -the light. The darkness has turned to dawning and the growing Church is -becoming “a burning and a shining light” in the lands which aforetime -sat “in darkness and in the shadow of death.” - - F. H. H. - - _31st January, 1914._ - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] “South Africa”: Rev. W. A. Elliott (price 6d., post free 8d.); -“Central Africa”: Mrs. John May, B.A. (price 6d., post free 7¹⁄₂d.); -“Madagascar”: Rev. James Sibree, D.D., F.R.G.S. (price 6d., post free -8d.). I am much indebted to the “Ten Years’ Review” of the Madagascar -Mission, edited by Dr. Sibree (L.M.S., price 2s. 6d. net), for much -information embodied in the Madagascar section of the book. - -[2] Copies can be obtained at the L.M.S., 6d. net, post free 8d. - - - - - Through Lands That Were Dark - - - - - A.--SOUTH AFRICA - - - - - CHAPTER I - - Darkness and Light - - A land of lights and shadows intervolved, - A land of blazing sun and blackest night. - - JOHN OXENHAM. - - -South Africa exercises a great charm over those who visit it. It is a -land of sunshine. An unkind critic has described it as “a land of trees -without shade, rivers without water, flowers without scent, and birds -without song.” It is a land of vast distances and sparse population. -The portion of the African Continent which is popularly referred to as -“South Africa” is that part which lies south of the Zambesi. This great -expanse of country is as large as Europe without Russia, Scandinavia -and the British Isles, but its entire population is less than that of -greater London. - -I left England in the late autumn and arrived at Cape Town seventeen -days later in the early summer. London fog was exchanged for a land -of lovely flowers and luscious fruits. Cape Town has been so often -described that I will not dwell upon its beauties or attempt to draw a -picture of Table Mountain, The Devil’s Peak, The Lion’s Head, or The -Twelve Apostles. - -My first impression--and it is a lasting one--was of the abounding -kindness and hospitality of the Colonials wherever I went. On the -day of my arrival I was entertained by the Executive Committee of -the Congregational Union of South Africa. On the following day I -was the guest of the Archbishop of Cape Town at his lovely home at -Bishopscourt, where I met fourteen South African Bishops in full -canonicals gathered together for their Annual Synod. Bishopscourt is -a beautiful old Dutch House with a far-famed garden which surpassed -in luxuriance of colour anything I had ever seen except in Japan. -All through South and Central Africa I was often the guest of -Government officials and European residents, and everywhere received, -as the representative of the Society, a warm welcome and the utmost -hospitality and kindness. - -[Illustration: MAP OF SOUTH AFRICA, SHOWING L.M.S. MISSION STATIONS.] - -My next impression was of the great contribution which the London -Missionary Society has made to the public life and development of Cape -Colony and South Africa generally, quite apart from the direct work -which its missionaries have been able to accomplish. Evidences of the -value of this contribution abounded everywhere I went. In Cape Town -I had the pleasure of meeting the Hon. W. P. Schreiner, who was the -Prime Minister of Cape Colony at the outbreak of the Boer War. Mr. -Schreiner is now a member of the Senate, specially chosen to represent -the interests of the Native population. He is recognised as the -leading lawyer in South Africa. I also met his brother, Mr. Theophilus -Schreiner, who is also a member of the Legislature and is well-known -as a leading Temperance advocate. Their sister, Olive Schreiner, the -authoress of “The Story of an African Farm,” is known wherever English -literature is read. This distinguished family are the children of an L. -M. S. Missionary. - -It is not often that three brothers receive the honour of knighthood -for public services. Sir William Solomon, Sir Saul Solomon and the -late Sir Richard Solomon (who was Agent-General for the Commonwealth -of South Africa, and who died a few weeks ago) are sons of an L. M. -S. Missionary. In its Review of the year 1913, the _Times_ speaks of -Sir Richard Solomon as “the most distinguished South African of his -generation, a man who was loved by his intimates and respected by all -for his ability and efficiency,” and of Sir William Solomon as “an -eminent judge.” - -Dr. Mackenzie, the leading physician in Kimberley; his brother, Dr. W. -Douglas Mackenzie, the Principal of the Hartford Theological Seminary, -U.S.A.; and another brother, at present Solicitor-General for Southern -Rhodesia, are three sons of John Mackenzie, the missionary-statesman of -South Africa and Lord Rosebery’s friend, who had so much to do with the -making of history in South Africa thirty years ago. I need only mention -other families whose names are household words in South Africa, and -whose representatives are to be found in many places--the Philips, the -Moffats, the Kaysers, the Andersons, the Helms, the Rose-Innes, to show -how large a part the L. M. S. has indirectly played in building up the -Commonwealth of South Africa. - -Throughout Cape Colony I found numerous Congregational Churches of -coloured people at places which were formerly Mission Stations of -the Society. Amongst others, Pacaltsdorp, Kruisfontein, Hankey, -Port Elizabeth, King Williams Town, and Fort Beaufort were visited. -The Society many years ago withdrew its missionaries and left these -Churches to develop along their own lines into self-governing -communities, supporting their own pastorate and carrying on their -own work. Wherever one went, one found evidences of the great part -which the Society had played in days gone by in planting churches -which are now independent, thus contributing both to the civilisation -and evangelization of the peoples of the land. Passing reference may -be made to one of these Churches which I visited. In the Brownlee -location at King Williams Town I found at work the Rev. John Harper, -who nearly thirty years ago exchanged his position as a missionary -of the Society for that of pastor of the Congregational Church. For -forty-five years he has laboured there as the minister of the Kaffir -Church in the Native Location and in charge of nineteen out-stations. -This veteran not only ministers to the spiritual needs of a very large -congregation, but acts both as doctor and lawyer to all the natives. -In 1912 he treated 4,000 patients and acted as guide, philosopher and -friend to the members of his congregations, advising them in all their -difficulties, drawing up their wills for them and ever looking after -their temporal and spiritual interests. Many of these coloured Churches -are now served by ministers of their own race, who have been trained -for the pastorate. - -From Cape Town I proceeded to Great Brak River and paid a short visit -to Mr. Thomas Searle, who for some years has been the Society’s Agent -for its properties at Hankey and Kruisfontein. The history of the -Searle family at Great Brak River during the last fifty years affords a -good example of the contribution to the development of the Colony which -Christian families have been able to make. - -On the 31st December, 1859, the late Mr. Charles Searle arrived at -Great Brak River with his wife and four children to take up the -position of toll-keeper at the Causeway carrying the main road over the -river. The toll-house was the only habitation in the place. Mr. Searle -erected a house for the accommodation of travellers, and afterwards a -shop and a store. Four more children were born. He purchased a farm of -354 acres for £91, and spent some money in constructing water-furrows. -A church was built. The business grew and subsequently a tannery and -boot-and-shoe factory were started. Branch stores were afterwards -established at George, Oudtshoorn, Heidelberg, Riversdale and a -wholesale depot at Mossel Bay. Mr. Searle had three sons, Charles, -William, and Thomas, who entered the business, and now direct the -Limited Company, which has been formed to carry it on. As the place -grew the Searles successfully opposed all applications for a licence -for the sale of intoxicating drinks, and to-day there is no licence -between Mossel Bay, 16 miles to the west, and George, 18³⁄₄ miles to -the east. The present population of Great Brak River exceeds 900, all -of whom are in the employ of, or dependent on, the Searles, except -the doctor, the post-master and the school-teacher. At first, all the -employees were coloured people. Latterly, however, white people have -also been employed, but they are treated exactly in the same way as the -coloured people and receive the same wages as coloured people doing -similar work. A very large new factory is now being built. Mr. Thomas -Searle preaches regularly in the spacious church. Dutch is the language -spoken. There is an excellent golf course. About six years ago old Mr. -and Mrs. Charles Searle died. They and other members of the family are -buried in the beautiful little private cemetery in Mr. Thomas Searle’s -garden--the first of numerous garden burial places I saw in different -places in the Colony. The three sons continue to reside in Great Brak -River honoured and esteemed by the whole countryside. - -While at Great Brak River I paid a visit to Pacaltsdorp, an old L. -M. S. station founded 100 years ago, where the Rev. G. B. Anderson, -whose father and grandfather were L. M. S. missionaries, is pastor. A -massive stone Church was erected in 1824, and is a memorial to the Rev. -Charles Pacalt, who devoted his salary to the building of the Church. -In addition to being pastor, Mr. Anderson is also schoolmaster, -post-master, registrar of births, marriages and deaths and agent for -the Society’s property known as Hansmoeskraal farm. - -Mr. Searle kindly took me in his motor car to visit Kruisfontein and -Hankey, where the Society still owns property. The South African roads -are not constructed for motor car traffic. They defy description and -I shall not soon forget this journey. The gradients are very bad, the -surface execrable. The ruts, rocks, stones and especially the sand -made rapid travel in a motor car a mixed pleasure. Rivers, and more -often dry river-beds, had to be crossed. For the most part the roads -were very narrow and were often over-hung with trees and prickly-pear, -constantly blocked by great ox-waggons with teams of fourteen to -eighteen oxen, or by goats, sheep, pigs, cows and more often than all -by ostriches, which seemed to take a delight in trying to race the car. -In spite of, or perhaps partly because of, these drawbacks, however, -the journey was most enjoyable. Some parts were very wild and desolate, -but others were scenes of sylvan beauty. There were mountain passes, -ravines, funereal forests (in one of which wild elephants are still to -be found), fairy glens and water-falls (often with very little water on -account of the prolonged drought), and in turn one was reminded of the -Pass of Glencoe, the Barmouth Estuary, the Precipice Walk, Dolgelley, -the New Forest and the Highlands of Scotland. - -Hankey is a name well known to all interested in the work of the L. -M. S. in South Africa. Through the engineering skill of one of the -missionaries applied to the construction of a tunnel through a narrow -mountain ridge, the waters of the Gamtoos River were made available for -watering the Hankey valley, and ever since the desert has “blossomed -as the rose.” Above this tunnel, near the top of the mountain, is a -remarkable natural feature known as “The Window.” It is a large opening -in the rocky ridge through which a beautiful landscape can be seen on -both sides. - -Another feature of Hankey which impresses a stranger from Europe is the -frogs’ chorus every evening rising from an innumerable multitude of -these amphibious reptiles which infest the fields and water-furrows. -They are known as the canaries of South Africa, and reminded one of the -music so characteristic of the rice fields of Central China. - -At Hankey there is a large Church of coloured people, representing an -old mission station of the Society, and an Institution for the training -of teachers now under the control of the South African Congregational -Union. Through the sale of the Society’s property a considerable -population of Europeans has been attracted to Hankey, and I had the -honour during my visit of opening the new European Church. - -From Hankey I proceeded to Port Elizabeth, where I was again hospitably -entertained. I had an opportunity of meeting the Congregational -ministers and the leading laymen at a Reception, and learnt much of -the contribution of the L. M. S. to the development of this part of -South Africa. The coloured Church there for so many years ministered -to by the Rev. William Dower, formerly a missionary of the Society, -is another instance of a strong self-supporting and self-governing -Church which has grown out of the missionary work of years gone by. On -the occasion of my visit it was crowded from floor to ceiling with a -congregation of coloured people, who are under the pastoral care of a -young and able coloured minister. - -After leaving Port Elizabeth I had the privilege of paying a visit to -two of the greatest Native Institutions in South Africa. At Healdtown, -near Fort Beaufort, the Wesleyans are carrying on a great work in the -training of Native Teachers. There are 185 boy and 84 girl boarders. -The results obtained in the Government examinations are the best in the -Colony. The students come from all parts; most of them are Kaffirs. The -medium of instruction is English. This great work is mainly the result -of the blessing of God upon the labours of one man, Principal R. F. -Hornabrook, who is in supreme control. The Institution is nominally in -charge of a Committee which, however, has not met for ten years. When -he commenced work there twenty-two years ago there were thirty-three -students. Mr. Hornabrook is his own architect and builder. He is also -a farmer and a doctor. The fees charged are £12 a year, and there is a -large Government grant. Some small help is given by the Wesleyans in -South Africa. Not a penny comes from England. The buildings are quite -unambitious in character, and for the most part have been erected -from the profits made from carrying on the Institution. The whole -enterprise is a triumph of organisation. There are four white men -teachers, three white lady teachers, two matrons and several coloured -teachers. The course is three years, and the students must have passed -the sixth standard before they enter. All have a little manual labour -to do, but there is no industrial department except so far as it is -necessary to teach woodwork. All sorts of difficulties have had to be -surmounted, the chief physical one being the water-supply, which is -now satisfactorily provided by a windmill. The whole Institution is a -monument of what can be done by one man with comparatively small funds. -Mr. Hornabrook is doing great things for South Africa. - -From Healdtown I journeyed to Lovedale, the centre of the world-famed -labours of Dr. James Stewart, who will always be known as “Stewart -of Lovedale.” This is an Institution carried on by the Free Church -of Scotland. There are 550 boarders from all parts of South Africa, -and of these 155 are girls. There is also a “practising school” -with 210 children. The fees range from £12 to £16 a year. Since the -Institution was commenced considerably over £100,000 has been received -in fees. Preachers and teachers for the South African Churches and -schools are trained here. The industrial work is widely known. The -Natives are taught carpentry, waggon-making, smith’s work, printing, -book-binding, boot and shoe making, office work, needle and laundry -work, horticulture and many other industrial pursuits. - -The present Principal is the Rev. James Henderson, formerly of the -Nyasaland Mission. The Warden of the Boys’ department is Dr. Moore -Anderson, a son of Sir Robert Anderson, at one time Chief of the -Metropolitan Police Force. On the staff there is the famous South -African astronomer, Dr. Roberts. It was good to find the daughter of -one of our present South African missionaries occupying a responsible -position in the Girls’ department. Words fail me to describe the great -work which is being done. The Institution is an enduring memorial to -the ability and devotion of Dr. Stewart. Over the grave of this great -and good man, which I visited, is the simple inscription, “James -Stewart, Missionary.” On the hill-top is a huge stone monument erected -to his memory. - -On leaving Lovedale I journeyed _via_ King Williams Town, Blaney -Junction, and De Aar to Kimberley. The railway meanders in and out -amongst the hills through picturesque scenery. Great rocks are much -in evidence. On the latter part of the journey I passed numerous -block-houses and stretches of galvanised wire fencing reminiscent -of the Boer war. Here as elsewhere the country has an unfinished -look about it. Most of the buildings are of galvanised iron. Long -distances were traversed without any signs of human habitation, and -where such signs appeared they were not always pleasing. The wretched -huts of “red-blanket kaffirs,” and the abject poverty in which they -live, showed that there is still much to be done to raise the native -inhabitants out of their degradation and to teach them to live decent -lives. - -In order to see at first-hand the conditions under which so many of -the Bechuanaland Natives live in the Compounds of the great De Beers’ -Diamond Mines, I visited Kimberley. Dr. Mackenzie kindly took me over -the diamond mine workings and one of the Compounds. From these mines -the bulk of the world’s supply of diamonds comes. I was very pleased -with what I saw in the Compound I visited, where 4,762 natives were -quartered. The annual death rate is only eight per thousand, about -half that of London. Every provision is made for the comfort, health -and well-being of the native workers. There is an admirable hospital -and a well-organised store, where the necessaries of life are to be -obtained at cost price. The fact that the natives are well cared for is -evidenced by the popularity of the work in the Kimberley mines all over -South Africa. Natives who have worked there return again and again for -a further period. There can be no doubt that the restraint upon their -liberty, to which they voluntarily submit while at work in the mines, -is greatly to their advantage, and the facilities which exist for the -remitting of wages to their families obviate, to a great extent, the -risks they would run if they left the Compound with large sums of money -in their possession. Nor are their spiritual needs neglected. - -While at Kimberley I paid a visit to Barkly West, formerly a mission -station of the Society for many years, associated with the name of -William Ashton. From Kimberley I proceeded to Tiger Kloof. I shall -refer to the great work which is being carried on there later in this -narrative. - -As one travelled through the Cape Province and visited many places, -which were at one time stations of the Society in the charge of -missionaries and entirely supported by funds from home, but are now -independent Churches carrying on their own work, one realised the -power of the growing Church in the lands which 100 years ago were -in darkness. This province is still “A land of lights and shadows -intervolved, a land of blazing sun and blackest night,” and some of -its portals are still “barred against the light.” That light has for a -century and more been beating up against “close-barred doors,” but the -missionary traveller looking down “the future’s broadening way” sees -many a sign that the time will surely come-- - - “When, like a swelling tide, - The Word shall leap the barriers, and The Light - Shall sweep the land; and Faith and Love and Hope - Shall win for Christ this stronghold of the night.” - - - - - CHAPTER II - - The Light Spreading Northward - - Kingdoms wide that sit in darkness, - Grant them, Lord, Thy glorious light; - And from eastern coast to western, - May the morning chase the night. - - WILLIAM WILLIAMS. - - -Up to this stage the narrative of travel has taken us through districts -in which the London Missionary Society has laboured in days gone by. -We shall now visit the stations where it is carrying on work at the -present day. - -Until quite recently the South Africa Mission of the L. M. S. might -be described, from the point of view of means of locomotion, as “an -Ox-waggon Mission.” The days of the Ox-waggon are rapidly passing. -This slow cumbersome means of conveyance, which was formerly almost -universal throughout South Africa, is giving place to the Cape cart and -the Railway. The change is symptomatic of the progress in the methods -of work. Greater facilities of communication have revolutionized the -conditions under which Missionary work is carried on. Missionaries are -no longer isolated from their fellows as they were in the days of old. -Until recently they were obliged to spend a considerable portion of -their time in actual travel in the ox-waggon. Now they can get about -rapidly and are able to cover much more ground and visit many more -out-stations in a given period of time. I was enabled to visit the -Society’s stations in Bechuanaland and Matebeleland in one-fifth of the -time which would have been necessary for such a visitation thirty years -ago. - -After a few days’ stay at Tiger Kloof, the first place I visited was -Vryburg, where the Rev. A. J. Wookey, the missionary in charge of the -numerous scattered Churches of the Baralong tribe, resides. Vryburg -is not in a true sense a station of the Society, but the headquarters -for an extensive out-station work. After a stay of two days there, -I journeyed with Mr. Wookey in a Cape cart drawn by four horses to -Ganyesa, forty miles to the north-west. The growth of the work in -the lifetime of a single missionary is well illustrated by what has -happened at this place. When Mr. Wookey first visited it, forty-three -years ago, two or three people met with him for worship in a hut there. -A man read the Scriptures, and a woman led in prayer and preached. -Now there is a good stone Church with 120 Church members, and an -Anglo-vernacular school with seventy children. Connected with it are -three branch churches and schools. - -A short description of the visit to Ganyesa will serve to illustrate -one’s experience at many a country out-station in Bechuanaland and -Matebeleland. I started from Vryburg at 7.10 and reached Ganyesa at -4.30, after out-spanning twice. We camped for the night on an open -common, in the middle of a large Native Reserve, close to an ox-waggon -which had brought two other missionaries, Mr. Helm and Mr. Haydon -Lewis, to the place. On all sides stretched the illimitable veldt. -There were very few trees, but almost all around the sky-line was -broken by the conical thatched roofs of the Native huts. Close at -hand were to be seen emaciated oxen returning from the almost dry -watering-places in charge of little black herd-boys, who were nearly -naked, their bodies glistening like polished ebony, and having an -appearance which suggested that they had recently been black-leaded, -and presenting a great contrast with the white of their eyes and of -their perfect teeth. After my arrival I was visited by the schoolmaster -and the deacons, and afterwards attended a concert in the Church, -organised to raise funds to help to send a teacher to Tiger Kloof. -The price of a ticket for the concert was 6d. The night was hot, and -the Church was packed. In spite of the almost overpowering heat the -doors and windows were kept closed, in order that the crowd outside -should not enjoy the music for which they had not paid! The atmosphere -within was beyond description. Evening meetings are almost unknown -in Bechuanaland. Some antique lamps had been requisitioned, and the -air was laden with the pungent smell of the lamp oil. The “Bouquet -d’Afrique” was also strongly in evidence. The audience afforded a -picturesque scene in the dim lamp light. Most of the women wore highly -coloured head-dresses, and with their numerous babies sat on the floor, -which was made of a mixture of sand and cow-dung. The rest of their -dress was remarkable for its colour and variety. Many of the boys and -men were in dilapidated European costume. There were 100 items on the -programme, and the concert continued until the small hours of Sunday -morning. I left before midnight, and slept on the ground underneath the -bright penetrating stars. The darkness of the night was illuminated by -flashes of summer lightning on the eastern horizon. - -The following day, Sunday, will live in my memory. The service was -announced to begin at eleven o’clock, but at ten o’clock the evangelist -came to say that the chapel was already full, and forthwith the service -commenced. The building was crowded to its utmost capacity, and there -were large numbers of men, women and children sitting in the shade on -the ground outside. I spoke to the people from a side-door in order -that my words might be heard by the crowd inside and out. After the -service I was visited by a large number of deacons and workers from -the Churches for many miles round. Afterwards I went to see an old -woman named Dipepeng in her kraal near by. She is over eighty years -of age, and for a long time has not had the use of her legs. She sat -in the entrance to her hut in the shadow of the over-hanging eaves, -reading her Sechuana Bible. She told me she had been a servant to Dr. -and Mrs. Moffat at Kuruman, and remembered David Livingstone courting -Mary Moffat under the historic almond tree, and was present at their -wedding. She described them, and spoke of an arbour in the garden where -they used to sit. The old woman has been a Christian for sixty years, -and is deeply interested in the Church at Ganyesa. - -I visited the only European in the place, he being a store-keeper. In -the afternoon there was a baptismal service, Sunday School, a sermon, -and a crowded Communion Service conducted with great reverence. At -the close the people all rose and sang, “God be with you till we meet -again.” At day-break on the following morning there was a prayer -meeting. This was followed by the wedding of five couples, and a visit -to the school. Later in the morning Mr. Wookey and I started on our -return journey to Vryburg in the Cape cart. - -Later in the week I journeyed by rail and cart to Taungs where Mr. -McGee is the resident missionary. The Society has carried on work there -for forty-five years, and although the Church membership in connection -with Taungs and its out-stations is the largest (1,184) connected with -any L. M. S. Church in South Africa, the place was described quite -recently by an experienced missionary as “a back-water of heathenism.” -The signs of heathenism are certainly very apparent. The Native Chief -is a bad specimen of a Bechuana. Some of his headmen make themselves -particularly hideous by a plentiful application of the contents of -the blue-bag to their faces and heads. There are many evidences of -superstition and heathenism, and yet there is another side to the -picture. On the Sunday the spacious Church--which has recently been -built by the tribe, heathen and Christian alike contributing--was -crowded both morning and afternoon. Twenty infants and thirty adults -were baptised. The scene from the platform was extremely picturesque. -About half the congregation consisted of women, most of whom wore -brilliantly coloured head-dresses, vivid yellows and startling pinks -predominating. Many were clad in gaudy shawls. In the afternoon a -solemn Communion Service was held, at which individual communion cups -were used. The service was rendered the more impressive by the fact -that a great thunderstorm broke before it closed. Looking through the -great west doors of the Church at the beginning of the service one -could see the wide-spreading veldt stretching away into the distance -as far as the eye could reach, and looking dry and thirsty in the -pitiless blaze of the afternoon sun. Then a kind of mist appeared -on the horizon. It was a dust-storm approaching. The natives have a -proverb which says that “God sweeps His land before He waters it.” -The clouds of dust came nearer, until at last all the doors had to be -shut. The Church became dark. Then came claps of thunder, which made -speaking difficult, while the dim interior was from time to time lit -up with brilliant flashes of lightning. Then followed a downpour of -heavy rain upon the galvanised iron roof, making a terrific noise. The -storm increased in intensity until there was a perfect artillery of -thunder, while the lightning was continuous and most vivid. In spite -of the storm the service was continued in an orderly fashion, and the -crowded congregation seemed perfectly oblivious to the hurricane raging -outside. The service concluded with thanksgiving for the rain, for -which the people had long been praying. - -Taungs is the centre of a widespread district, in which there are -twenty-three outstations regularly visited by the missionary. I -visited one of them, called Manthe, nine miles away. That visit was -impressed upon my memory by one of the appalling contrasts which are -so common in heathen lands. Under an extemporised roof at the back of -the evangelist’s house I saw and talked with a bright Christian boy, -the eldest son of the evangelist, by name Golekynie, who had been for -seven years at Tiger Kloof. He was on the point of passing his third -and final examination as a pupil-teacher, when, a month before, he had -been compelled to return home in an advanced stage of consumption. He -was lying on his bed in the open air. He spoke excellent English and -had a refined face and manner, and was evidently an earnest Christian -youth. He realised that he could not live long, and spoke with high -appreciation of the happiness that had come into his life at Tiger -Kloof. He told me that he was not afraid to die. - -An hour afterwards I paid a visit to the Chief of the village, who was -slowly dying of a loathsome disease in a wretched, evil-smelling native -house. He lay on a dirty mattress with a coloured blanket over him. He -was a heathen of a low type. Two of his wives and several children were -on the verandah outside the open window. After Mr. McGee and I had left -he sent to us to ask us to return to pray for him, the first time he -had ever made a request for spiritual help. - -From Taungs I proceeded to the historic station of Kuruman, -accomplishing the journey of 143 miles by cart, rail, motor-car and -ox-waggon. The contrast in the modes of travel is illustrated by the -fact that the first seventy-seven miles occupied five hours, and the -remaining sixty-six miles--which were travelled by ox-waggon--occupied -three nights and two days. This journey helped to bring home the -sparseness of the population. On Christmas Eve I travelled from early -morning till late at night in the ox-waggon without seeing a single -human habitation, or a single human being, except those who were -accompanying me, and this not in the recesses of Central Africa but in -British Bechuanaland, which is part of the Cape Province. I travelled -in a new waggon recently made by the boys at Lovedale for the Kuruman -station. It was drawn by fourteen oxen, kindly provided by the Church -at Kuruman, with two supernumeraries in reserve in case of accidents. -As travelling by ox-waggon is rapidly becoming a thing of the past, -it is worth while attempting a short description of the journey. The -waggon in which I travelled, although a new one, had no springs. -The road was of a most primitive description, although the main -thoroughfare between two important centres of population. The jolting -and bumping defy description. The speed is nearly two miles an hour -if all goes well. The discomfort of travelling is somewhat mitigated -by the “cartel”--a wooden frame hung within the waggon by very short -chains of three links. Across the frame are stretched “rims” or strips -of undressed ox-hide about a quarter of an inch broad. When the waggon -is at rest this makes a very comfortable bed, far more so than some -of the beds of my experience in China, such as the boards of a Chinese -chapel vestry, or the planks of a Chinese boat. - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_Mrs. Hawkins._ - - KURUMAN MISSION HOUSE, BUILT BY MOFFAT AND HAMILTON.] - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_Neville Jones._ - - THE NEW KURUMAN WAGGON, WITH MR. AND MRS. J. TOM BROWN.] - -The oxen are outspanned about three times a day at places where there -is water, or where they are likely to find some grass. No reins are -used in driving, but the oxen are controlled by a very long whip which -is used with great dexterity either by the driver from the front of the -waggon or by his assistant walking alongside the oxen. These two men -also act as cooks. A Christmas Day spent in these conditions will live -in the memory. - -The stay at Kuruman was a delightful experience. This place is a -veritable oasis in the desert with a perennial water supply from the -Kuruman river, which issues from a place called “The Fountain” in the -Kuruman township three miles away from the Mission station. Thence in -summer and winter, in flood and in drought, flows 4,000,000 gallons -of water a day. By means of water-furrows, constructed by the early -missionaries, the dry and thirsty land is converted into a paradise of -green. The trees in the garden are a constant delight. - -I stayed in the Mission House built by Robert Moffat and Robert -Hamilton eighty years ago. The whole place is rich with associations. -It was here that David Livingstone courted Mary Moffat. The almond tree -in the garden under which he proposed to her is still flourishing. -Close by is the great Church, built by Moffat, and rich with many a -memory. Next to it is the house where William Ashton lived for many -years, which is now occupied by Mrs. Bevan Wookey, who is in charge -of the excellent Mission School at Kuruman. Behind is the school -and the old printing office. The garden is most fertile; oranges, -lemons, quinces, mulberries, pears, apples, plums, apricots, peaches, -pomegranates, walnuts, melons and richly-laden vines, abounding. For -more than a quarter of a century the Rev. J. Tom Brown has carried on -Missionary work at this station. - -The great fact of the growing Christian Church in South Africa was -abundantly emphasised on the Sunday of my stay at Kuruman. From -outstations far and near the Christians came in for the Communion -Service on the last Sunday of the year and for the New Year’s meetings. -In the morning some 1,500 gathered together for public worship, and -three services were carried on simultaneously. Moffat’s long, and -somewhat dark Church, with its great wooden beams, was filled with a -Sechuana-speaking congregation. The dimness of the Church was relieved -by the orange, yellow, pink and blue of the dresses of the women. In -the spacious school there was a crowded service for the Dutch-speaking -natives and coloured people. In the yard of Mrs. Wookey’s house there -was a service, conducted by an evangelist, for the Damaras, a stalwart -tribe of blackest hue. These people are refugees from German South-West -Africa. In the afternoon all the Church members gathered together in -the Church at a solemn Communion Service. A stranger will not soon -forget the impressive quietness and reverence of the service as the -bare-footed deacons moved noiselessly along the serried ranks of the -great black crowd that was present. - -The meetings on the following day were further evidence of the -growing Church. A large gathering of Church members was held at -which discussions took place on several subjects quite familiar to -the Home Churches, many Natives joining in with great intelligence -and earnestness. The Native Pastor at Kuruman, the Rev. Maphakela -Lekalaka, an eloquent preacher, a capable minister, and a master of -metaphor--known as the “Joseph Parker of Bechuanaland”--superintended -the work of the station with ability and success during the absence of -the Missionary on furlough. - -The journey back to Vryburg was made in an old ox-waggon drawn -by fourteen oxen kindly lent by the Church at one of the Kuruman -outstations. I travelled back _via_ Motito, which has pathetic -associations. In a tiny grave-yard there are buried two or three -missionary children. There is also a grave which recalls a grim -tragedy,--that of Jean Fredoux, a son-in-law of Dr. Moffat, and a -missionary of the Paris Evangelical Missionary Society, which was -formerly at work there. It was in 1865 that he met his death. A -“depraved European” (to quote from the inscription on the gravestone) -attacked his wife in his absence. The Native Christians defended her -and made him prisoner, intending to send him to Kuruman for trial. Next -day they were afraid they might get into trouble for arresting a white -man and they let him go. He escaped in his waggon to the place where -Mr. Fredoux was, and the Natives followed and told the latter what had -happened. Mr. Fredoux went to speak to the man, who retreated inside -his waggon. Then followed an explosion of gunpowder, which blew the -waggon, the “depraved European,” Mr. Fredoux and all the Natives to -pieces. - -At the conclusion of the journey from Kuruman I paid a short visit -to Tiger Kloof and then proceeded north to visit the Matebeleland -stations, in what is now known as Southern Rhodesia, taking three days’ -holiday to see the wonderful Victoria Falls and places of interest in -Bulawayo and the neighbourhood. Every Britisher naturally associates -Rhodesia with the name and work of Cecil Rhodes. His statue stands in -a commanding position in Bulawayo. His grave in the rocky fastness of -the Matopo Hills is an impressive monument to his memory. All round are -immense blocks of granite piled up in fantastic shapes. Four groups of -these granite boulders almost completely enclose a rocky surface about -30 yards square, in the centre of which there is a large untrimmed -block of granite lying on the ground. On the top of this is a sheet of -bronze about 10 feet by 4 feet and 2 inches thick, on which are deeply -cut these words:-- - - “HERE LIE THE - REMAINS OF - CECIL JOHN RHODES.” - -There is no date. Close by on the slope of the hill there is a white -marble rectangular monument, with bronze panels, commemorating Major -Wilson and thirty-four men who laid down their lives in one of the -Matebeleland wars. The inscription reads: - - “TO BRAVE MEN.” - -Few people, perhaps, realise what Rhodesia owes to the lives and -labours of L. M. S. Missionaries. When Cecil Rhodes was a youth of -twenty Mr. Helm was establishing the Mission Station at Hope Fountain, -10 miles away from the present town of Bulawayo, which was then -non-existent. Rhodes was always ready to acknowledge the value of -the services rendered by Mr. Helm in his early pioneering days in -the country which afterwards was named Southern Rhodesia. He was a -constant visitor to Hope Fountain, and Mr. Helm often took part in -his negotiations with Lobenguela, the blood-thirsty Matebele king. -John Smith Moffat, the son of Dr. Moffat, at one time an L. M. S. -Missionary, afterwards for many years a Government official, and -always the friend of the Natives, played an important part in the -establishment of British rule in Rhodesia. John Mackenzie, too, did a -great work in this direction, and was ever a stalwart champion of the -rights of the Natives. - -Mr. Helm drove me from Bulawayo to Hope Fountain in a cart drawn by -four mules, the two leaders rejoicing in the names of “Bella” and -“Donna.” At Hope Fountain the Society holds for the benefit of the -Natives a farm upon which some 500 people are living. In Southern -Rhodesia, outside the towns, it is very difficult, if not impossible, -to carry on missionary work except on such farms or in Native -Reserves. Throughout the country farms are being rapidly taken up -by white farmers, and the Natives are steadily and inevitably being -driven off the lands which they previously occupied into the great -Native Reserves provided for them by the Government. Hope Fountain -is the centre of some thirteen outstations, most of which are under -the charge of resident evangelists. These men and many of the Native -Christians came into the head-station to meet me. These small Churches -form another example of the growing Native Christian Church of South -Africa. The principles of self-support have been inculcated with such -success that they raise for the support of their own Christian work a -sum considerably in excess of that raised at any other station of the -Society in the sub-continent. - -At Hope Fountain, as in so many places in the Mission Field, one is -reminded of the great and good men who have given their lives to the -work in days gone by. In the cemetery there David Carnegie is buried, -and his white stone tomb can be seen from the Mission House across the -valley. His widow and family live at a house on the road between Hope -Fountain and Bulawayo. - -The next week of my travel was devoted to exploring one of the great -Native Reserves above referred to. Mr. Helm drove me from Bulawayo to -Inyati, the most northern station of the Society in South Africa, a -journey of forty-five miles. Thence, accompanied by Mr. Cullen Reed and -Mr. R. Lanning, the Native Commissioner, I paid a visit to the Shangani -Reserve, which comprises a large tract of country situated about midway -between Bulawayo and the Zambesi. This Reserve has been set apart by -the authorities for the accommodation of Natives who have been driven -off the land by the gradual settlement of white farmers. The expedition -involved a cart journey over rough country of some 220 miles, some of -it through virgin tropical forest across which the road consisted of -little more than a track. For seven nights I slept on the ground near -the great fires which were necessary to keep off lions and other beasts -of prey. The experience was a delightful one in spite of a too abundant -insect life which often proved troublesome. Mr. Lanning has a unique -knowledge of the country and his experience of travel on the veldt -added greatly to the comfort and the pleasure of the journey. Moreover, -he is a keen hunter and kept the larder well supplied with fresh meat. -The cart was drawn by six mules and we were accompanied by another cart -which conveyed the Native servants, the luggage and the camp equipment. -The interest of the journey was enhanced by meetings with Native chiefs -and headmen at different places. They may be typified in the person of -Tjakalisa, Lobenguela’s third son, a fine specimen of the human race, -standing over six feet high and every inch of him an aristocrat. - -Clad in a vest and a short leather apron and some wire bracelets, he -looked like the son of a king. Years ago he was nearly burnt to death -in a tree in which he had taken refuge from a bush fire. David Carnegie -treated him and saved his life. On another occasion he was out hunting -with his father. His cartridges were several sizes too small for his -gun. As fast as he put them in at the breech they fell out at the -muzzle. Lobenguela insisted that he was bewitched, and this opinion was -apparently confirmed when, on his shooting expedition, his horse took -fright and threw him, breaking his leg into splinters. Mr. Helm came to -the rescue and effected a complete cure. - -Nowadays Tjakalisa has settled down in the Shangani as a farmer on a -large scale. He has been known to realise as much as £600 at one time -on the sale of his produce. He came to discuss with us the question -of the settlement of a resident missionary. He was accompanied by -a fine old chief, Sivalo, who still wears one of the old Matebele -iron circlets on the top of his head. I shall not soon forget the -long morning spent in the blazing sun--in “the splendour, shadowless -and broad,” of a South African midsummer. Tjakalisa and Sivalo were -attended by a score of headmen. They were eloquent in praise of their -new country, which had not suffered from the terrible drought which has -been afflicting so much of the sub-continent. They realise the benefits -of elementary education and promised to support a school and to build a -house for a teacher. They were filled with enthusiasm for the future of -this promised land. - -Later on the same night I was lying on my bed, consisting of leaves and -grass and a rug, under the stars which were soon to be extinguished by -the brilliant light of a South African full moon. A few yards away our -black servants were sitting around the camp-fire. One of these was a -Basuto who had passed some of his life in prison and was now a servant -in the mission. Another was a black, curly-headed herd-boy from one of -our mission stations. With them were some naked Matebele. Before I -slept I heard the strains of a hymn in the native language, sung to a -well-known tune. It was: - - Jesus, still lead on, - Till our rest be won; - And, although the way be cheerless, - We will follow, calm and fearless; - Guide us by Thy hand - To our Fatherland. - -I fell asleep to dream of the African church of the future in this new -fatherland of their race. - -Already under the steady pressure of white settlement large numbers -of Natives have been driven into this Reserve and month after month -there are fresh arrivals. In the old days the L. M. S. was ever to the -front as the pioneer Society in the evangelization of South Africa. In -these days it is looking forward to establishing a new mission station -in this Reserve, unless prevented by the great deficiency and the -lukewarmness of the Home Churches. - -From Shangani I returned to Inyati, the station where Mr. Bowen Rees -has laboured so long and faithfully. He was away on furlough at the -time of my visit. During my stay there I was reminded of some of the -minor inconveniences--not to say dangers--of a missionary’s life. One -evening while we were sitting on the verandah a snake paid us a visit, -while the next day a cobra was caught in the woodstack close at hand. - -I inspected the school and attended a large gathering in the Church of -Christians from Inyati and its outstations. Most of the adults squatted -on the floor with their families around them. The naked babies tumbled -over each other in their playful frolics, or slept on their mothers’ -backs while I was trying to speak to their parents. - -From Inyati Mr. Helm drove me to Insiza, formerly a station of the -Society. On the following morning I left at 4 a.m. by train for -Bulawayo, where I proceeded to Marula Tank Siding _en route_ for the -new Arthington station at Tjimali, where our Missionary, Mr. Whiteside, -met me. A drive of twenty miles in the mule cart brought us to the -Mission House, which is beautifully situated in the midst of granite -kopjes which form the western spur of the Matopo Hills. The view is -magnificent. The garden terminates in a forbidding precipice some -hundreds of feet deep. On one side of the house is a lofty rocky hill -which commands a wide stretch of mountainous country in all directions -with intervening valleys, and plains and hills. There are, however, -drawbacks to Tjimali as a residence. The baboons are very numerous in -the immediate neighbourhood and go about in herds of forty or fifty -and rob the gardens in the day time. The wild cats steal the chickens -at night. The eagles carry off the lambs, and the insect life is -super-abundant. Tjimali is the Society’s newest station in Matebeleland -and the work is in its early stages. There are ten outstations, at each -of which there is a native teacher who conducts school during the week -and acts as pastor-evangelist on Sundays, preaching and holding classes -for inquirers. The work is bright with promise and is reaching the -miners who are settling in the outskirts of the district. - -From Tjimali I journeyed by cart to Dombodema, a long day’s drive -of fifty-eight miles. My experience that day illustrates one of the -disadvantages of the new mode of travel in South Africa. I had been -driven to the Marula Siding to catch the train for Plumtree, the -station for Dombodema. On arrival there I found that on the previous -day the time for the starting of the train had been put forward four -hours without any notice whatever to the public or even the station -master, and hence there was nothing for it but to drive the whole -distance. On the way I was met by Mr. Cullen Reed, the Dombodema -missionary, who has been at work there since the foundation of the -station in 1895. Mr. Reed has to carry on his work in three languages -and has to itinerate a parish of 3,000 square miles inhabited by 15,000 -people. On each side of the Mission station are low picturesque kopjes. -The day before I arrived Mr. Reed had killed a snake fifteen feet long -in the garden. - -Preachers, teachers and Christian workers had come in from the -outstations for the meeting. Three of them had travelled all the -way from Nekati, a distance of 150 miles. At this place Segkome -Khama lives. He is the eldest son of Khama, the famous Chief of the -Bamangwato tribe. For the Sunday service the Church was crowded, the -congregation sitting on the floor, and some scores more finding seats -under the shadow of a great fig tree outside the door. The Service was -conducted in two languages. In the afternoon an impressive Communion -Service was held. - -On leaving Dombodema I proceeded south to Serowe, spending two days -on the way at the British Residency, Francistown, as the guest of -Major Daniel, the Assistant Commissioner for the Northern half of -the Bechuanaland Protectorate. My visit to Serowe was one of my most -interesting experiences in South Africa. Leaving Phalapye Road railway -station at 3.20 a.m. in the faint light of the waning moon I started -on the cart ride of thirty-five miles to Serowe. The cart was drawn -by eight fine mules kindly put at my disposal by the Government. It -was the dustiest ride I have ever experienced, in many places the road -being several inches deep in sand and dust. The dust of the Plain of -Chihli in North China makes an impression on the memory which it is not -easy to forget, but the drive to Serowe was a more trying experience, -because eight galloping mules travel much faster than the sorry beasts -which draw the Peking carts of North China. About three miles from -Serowe we saw a cloud of dust ahead and there emerged from it a company -of horsemen whom Khama had sent to escort me. A mile further on the -whole veldt seemed to be enveloped in a mighty dust-storm. When it -reached us we stopped. Khama had come in person with some hundreds of -horsemen. The old Chief sprang from his saddle like a man of 26 rather -than a man of 76. He joined me in the cart and we renewed our drive. -The horsemen galloped before and behind and on either side. The drivers -thrashed their mules with two whips to force them to keep pace with -the horsemen. A regular stampede ensued. Fresh detachments of Natives, -all mounted on fine steeds, joined the cavalcade every two or three -minutes. The Chief thoroughly enjoyed the fun and laughed heartily -as the horses of the various members of our escort kept cannonading -against one another in the mad rush. - -Serowe, the largest Native town in South Africa, contains about 26,000 -inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated. Mr. Jennings, the L. M. S. -missionary, has carried on work there for upwards of ten years. It is -a typical Bechuana town, having no streets but consisting of numerous -collections of native huts within fenced kraals. The position of the -Mission House is particularly striking, lying as it does between three -great piles of rocks. - -The town owes much of its importance to the fact that it is Khama’s -capital. This old Chief--the Jubilee of whose baptism was celebrated -two years ago--is the most distinguished Native of South Africa. -He is undoubtedly one of the busiest men in the world. He spends -laborious days in the Kgotla--the great open-air meeting place of the -tribe--dealing with all sorts of questions affecting his people, and -acting as judge. Nothing concerning the life of the tribe is too minute -for his careful attention. He knows all that happens and rules his -people with a firm hand, exercising a benevolent despotism. - -In a very true sense Khama is head of the Church as well as head of -the State. He is most regular in his attendance at Sunday services and -religious meetings. Under his leadership his people have just built -a magnificent stone Church, on the foundation stone of which are -inscribed these words:-- - - “THIS CHURCH WAS ERECTED TO THE GLORY OF GOD - BY CHIEF KHAMA AND THE BAMANGWATO TRIBE.” - -Two great meetings in the Kgotla will live in my memory. At day-break -on the morning after my arrival I attended a prayer meeting for rain. -These meetings had been held for weeks. About 800 men and women were -present in almost equal proportions. Most of the women sat upon the -ground and the men on low chairs or stools which they brought with -them. Khama sat on a deck chair under the shadow of a tree in the -middle of one of the sides of the oval into which the people had -grouped themselves. His young wife sat on his left hand. There was -singing, reading and prayer. The Chief himself led the meeting in the -final prayer, which lasted about five minutes. I am told he compared -his country to a wilderness where there was no river, and his people to -a lonely dog in the desert crying for water. - -Another memorable meeting in the Kgotla was the Sunday morning service. -Between 4,000 and 5,000 people assembled at 7 a.m., most of the men -sitting on the right and the women on the left. The scene was a most -picturesque one. The coloured head-dresses of the women were brilliant -in the morning sunshine. Khama and his wife were present. A deacon -with a fine voice led the singing, which was very hearty, and was -unaccompanied by any instrument. - -Many other gatherings were held during my visit to Serowe. I met -deacons, Church members, catechumens, inquirers, Sunday School -teachers, and other Christian workers. In several conversations -with the Chief I found him to be deeply interested in Christian -work in other parts of the world. He has the high spirits of a boy -and told many yarns of hunting experiences. He had some interesting -reminiscences of his meetings with David Livingstone to narrate. He -told me that he remembered Livingstone visiting his father, Segkome, on -three occasions. On the first and second of these visits Livingstone -was riding on a hornless ox. On the third occasion he was travelling -in an ox-waggon and came to Shoshong. “After that,” Khama added, “he -went beyond the Zambesi, and I never saw him again.” Of his own accord -he told me of Livingstone’s encounter with the lion, and described the -damage to the arm and told me he remembered hearing of the incident at -the time. - -Khama has two houses, one a spacious and well-built native hut, where -he lives with his wife, Semane, who was trained at the L. M. S. School, -and is a fine specimen of a Native Christian woman. She takes great -interest in the work and often visits the schools and is a regular -attendant at the services in the Kgotla. Khama’s other residence is a -European house, brick-built, with a verandah in front and containing -four rooms. I visited him there, and was received in his sitting-room, -which is about 18 feet square. The floor was covered with linoleum -upon which was a Turkey carpet. There were two tables--one a large -old-fashioned drawing-room table, on which stood a photograph of Earl -Selborne in a silver frame and two other photographs, and the other a -light folding table on which was a richly framed autograph photograph -of Queen Victoria, which she had given to the Chief when he was in -England in 1895. On this table also stood a very large blue enamel -milk-pail full of milk and a bottle of vinegar. In the corner was an -Address from the Serowe Chamber of Commerce on the occasion of the -Jubilee of his baptism. On the walls were portraits of the late King -Edward, Queen Alexandra, King George and other Royalties. He showed -me a gold hunter watch he was wearing, which contained an inscription -recording that it was presented to him by the Duke and Duchess of -Connaught. He was very interested in political matters and was most -anxious about the future of his people, being apprehensive that the -Protectorate might one day be incorporated in the South Africa Union, -and keenly desirous of preventing the occurrence of anything in the -nature of such a catastrophe, as he deems it would be. - -Khama is a man of great physical strength. A week or two before I saw -him he had ridden sixty miles to Shoshong on horse-back in a single -day, and after a day or two’s stay had made the return journey in the -same way. He exercises a tremendous influence over the tribe, and in -recent years has put a stop to the manufacture and drinking of Native -beer. The story is told of him that some time ago a man who had tried -to bewitch him died of fright, when Khama reminded him that he was the -son of the greatest of witch doctors, Segkome, and that he could kill -him if he wished to do so. - -My week’s intercourse with Khama made two impressions on my mind. The -first is that he is a Christian gentleman, and the second is that he is -one of the most cautious and astute men I have ever met in my life. He -has a remarkable mind, the working of which it is not always easy to -understand, but of his desire to spread the light amongst the people -over whom he rules with a rod of iron there cannot be a shadow of doubt. - -Of the growing Church among the Bamangwato there are many manifest -signs. Apart from the salaries of the missionaries and a small -grant to keep the Mission House in repair, the work at Serowe is -self-supporting. Moreover, the Church is a Missionary Church, and is -seeking to pass on the light to others. For many years it has done much -to sustain the work for God at Lake Ngami, which is the Mission field -of the Bamangwato Church. It sends out its own missionaries. For twenty -years Shomolekae has been the devoted and much loved evangelist of the -far-away Lake Ngami district and has bravely held the fort in spite of -loneliness and isolation and repeated attacks of fever. He has now been -joined by Andrew Kgasi, who was trained at Tiger Kloof, and volunteered -for service at the Lake. - -From Serowe I travelled to Shoshong, being driven to Phalapye Road -Station by the Acting-Magistrate in the Government mule cart. -Proceeding south by railway to Mahalapye I was there met by Mr. Lloyd, -the Shoshong missionary, with his ox-waggon. We travelled all night -and reached Shoshong at mid-day. This place in the old days was the -capital of the Bamangwato tribe. It was here that Segkome, Khama’s -father, ruled and Khama himself was baptised fifty-two years ago. Here -David Livingstone preached and practised in the early forties, and -later on John Mackenzie, Roger Price and J. D. Hepburn laboured. But -its glory departed when in 1886 Khama moved his capital to Phalapye. - -Shoshong is picturesquely situated in a wide plain with mountains on -all sides, but there are few traces of its former greatness. The site -of the old town is covered with bush. The present town consists of -three large kraals under three local chiefs or head-men, one of whom -is Khamane, Khama’s brother, and another Tshwene, Khama’s son-in-law. -At the time of my visit Shoshong was experiencing the terrible effects -of the prolonged drought. The only water supply was two miles away in -the river bed, over one of the roughest paths I have ever traversed. -Between the boulders over the stones and across the rocks the narrow -serpentine track had been worn quite smooth by the long procession of -women walking up and down day by day to fetch water from holes dug in -the bed of the river. One of the vivid impressions of travel in these -parts is that of a string of women carrying very heavy clay pots of -water balanced on their heads, climbing over rocks and making their way -through thorn bushes, and never spilling a drop of the water. These -great pots are 18 inches across in the broadest part and one foot high, -and when filled are very heavy. I tried to lift one on to my head -but entirely failed. The women help each other to hoist them and they -do this very cleverly and quickly. A man attempted to help a woman to -replace on her head the pot I had tried to lift. The woman said “No! -you are no good, you are only a man! You cannot do it.” An old woman of -sixty came to the rescue and between them they succeeded in replacing -the pot upon the head of its bearer. - -Shoshong is the centre of a large district comprising thirty-nine -outstations, some of which, however, are little more than preaching -stations. The missionary visits them from time to time. There are only -seven schools in the district. - -On my return journey to the railway I had an experience of travel which -was much more common formerly, when the ox-waggon was the only means of -conveyance, than to-day, when its place has been largely taken by carts -and trains. We left Shoshong in the waggon at 10 p.m. The herd-boy had -been unable to find two of the best oxen, and we started with a span of -twelve, at least two of which were very poor specimens. In the first -two miles we had to stop a score of times. Finally, one of the oxen -laid down and refused to move. We left this creature and its fellow -behind, and proceeded with ten oxen only. The heavy thunderstorm of the -previous day had left water behind it on the road and our progress was -slow. Between five and six on the following morning I was wakened by a -tremendous banging and found one of the drivers standing on the front -seat of the waggon chopping off a branch of a tree which barred our -way. Fifty yards further on, owing to careless driving and tired oxen, -the wheels on one side of the waggon got lodged in a deep rut full of -water and mud. I got up to find the waggon at an angle of forty-five -degrees and in imminent danger of overturning. Dressing hurriedly and -getting out of the waggon I found the boys had unyoked the oxen and -fastened them on to the back in the vain hope that they might thus pull -it out of the rut backwards. A futile effort was then made to dig out -the two wheels, but it was impossible to move the waggon. The boy went -off post-haste to Bonwapitse, two miles away, to borrow oxen and men -from the Chief to extricate us. In two hours twenty men, including the -Chief’s son, and ten of the most powerful oxen I have ever seen, came -to our rescue. A chain was fastened round the back axle and in less -time than it takes to describe the incident the waggon was dragged -out of the rut. The new oxen, however, were not content with their -performance, but rushed off, dragging the waggon backwards, and soon -two considerable trees were levelled to the ground in the stampede. -Fortunately, the oxen took a semi-circular course, and the great trees -and dense bush checked them in their mad career, but not before some -damage had been done and the interior of the waggon half-filled with -broken branches of trees. - -It was Sunday morning. On reaching Bonwapitse we held a Service under -the trees, which was attended by the Chief and his wife and about 100 -people. This was one of the many open-air services which will live in -the memory. The trees afforded little shade. The almost vertical rays -of the South Africa summer sun beat down with merciless severity upon -the people gathered together as they joined in singing their hymns and -listened with great attention to the words spoken to them, and took -part with great devoutness in the prayers which were offered. - -I proceeded by railway to Gaberones, arriving there between two and -three in the morning. Alighting from the train I waited in the darkness -until two men appeared with a lantern to conduct me to the Government -waggon which Mr. Ellenberger had kindly sent. We in-spanned early -in the morning and I was taken to the Residency three miles away, -where a warm welcome awaited me. Mr. Ellenberger is the Assistant -Commissioner for the Southern portion of the Protectorate. He is the -son of a missionary of the Paris Missionary Society who laboured in -Basutoland, and his wife is the daughter of the well-known Dr. Casalis -of the same Society. I experienced from them the same kindness which -was always extended to me by the Government officials, and my two days’ -stay at the Residency was altogether delightful. They kindly drove me -in the Government cart to Khumakwane, where we found the waggon which -had conveyed my luggage on the previous day, awaiting us. Mr. Haydon -Lewis, the missionary from Molepolole, met us there with his waggon. -Afterwards another open-air service was held under a great tree, in the -course of which Mr. Ellenberger spoke to the people in Sechuana, and -a business interview followed with the neighbouring Chief, at whose -village the Mission Chapel had been burnt some time before at the -instigation of a “false prophet.” - -Mr. Ellenberger drove us to Kolobeng, where we saw the ruins of the -house which Livingstone had built seventy years before, and which was -destroyed during his absence by the Boers. The outline of the house -was quite distinct, and on one side the walls are still standing about -7 feet high. The bricks were of the roughest description, and the -marvel is that they have stood the storms of seventy years without -disappearing altogether. In Livingstone’s day there was a large town -here, but now not a hut is to be seen owing to tribal migration. The -Kolobeng river itself has almost disappeared, but its course is clearly -marked by a great line of reeds and rushes. - -I met two old men who remembered Livingstone, and gave me some details -of his personal appearance. One of them as a boy was doctored by him, -the other still cultivates Livingstone’s garden--a small patch near -the ruins, where mealies are grown. Close by are the remains of an old -Dispensary, and a little further off are two nameless graves. It was -a scene of desolation, nature having completely re-asserted herself, -and obliterated all traces of the former town. But from the site there -was a fine view of undulating veldt and valley and mountain, and one -thought with gratitude of the great man who had “passed like light -across the darkened land”-- - - “To lift the sombre fringes of the Night - To open lands long darkened to the Light, - To heal grim wounds, to give the blind new sight, - Right mightily wrought he.” - -Next day I left for Molepolole with Mr. Haydon Lewis. This town, where -missionary work has been carried on since 1866, is the capital of -the Bakwena tribe. In the afternoon there was a great gathering of -school children for their annual sports. Just after I had distributed -the prizes a youth galloped up on a bare-backed horse, scattering -the children in all directions. He was the Chief’s son and has the -reputation of being a graceless young rascal, constantly under the -influence of drink and a veritable vagabond in the tribe. He rejoices -in the name of Ralph Wardlaw Thompson Sebele, having been born about -the time when Dr. Thompson was last in Molepolole, and receiving at -baptism the honoured name to which he is anything but a credit. - -During my visit I inspected the schools and met the Church members -and congregation, and was present at a crowded lantern service in the -Church. In spite of great difficulties the evangelistic work is being -carried on with success by means of twenty-eight native preachers -trained on the station. This tribe has set an example to the other -Bechuanaland tribes by levying a school tax of 2/-per annum upon all -tax-payers, thus providing ample funds for educational purposes. -Except for the salary of the missionaries and an annual grant for -itineration the work at this station is self-supporting, and the Church -is realising the duties of providing for its own work, of governing -itself and of spreading the Gospel in the outlying parts. Its Mission -field is the North central part of the Khalahari Desert which adjoins -the territory of the tribe on the west. At Molepolole, as well as at -other stations, the missionary is also the doctor. A considerable -portion of each morning, when he is at home, is spent in examining -patients and dispensing medicines. He is ably seconded by his wife, who -was a trained nurse. Thus the light is spread not only by the preaching -of the Gospel and the teaching in the schools, but also by the healing -of the sick. So our missionaries are found following in the footsteps -of the Great Physician. - -From Molepolole I travelled south in the ox-waggon to Mahatelo on my -way to Kanye. Early next morning I was met at Gamoshupa by a cart -and four mules, kindly sent for me by Seapapico, the Chief of the -Bangwaketsi tribe. After a drive through beautiful scenery I reached -Kanye, a town of 10,000 inhabitants, and the capital of the tribe, in -the afternoon. I spent the greater part of a week at this station, -where missionary work has been carried on under the superintendence -of a resident missionary for forty years, and where Mr. and Mrs. -Howard Williams were labouring. While this book is passing through -the press a cablegram has been received, conveying the sad news that -Mr. Williams has been called to the higher service, after a devoted -missionary life of well-nigh thirty years. The increasing activities -of a growing Church of nearly 700 members were apparent in the town -itself and in the numerous outstations in the district. On the Sunday -the spacious Church, which was provided by the tribe and cost £3,000 -apart from the bricks, and contains a fine organ, the gift of the late -Chief Bathoen, was packed to its utmost capacity, many having come in -from the outstations. The women’s head-dresses, which were of all the -colours of the rainbow, were in striking contrast to the black heads -of the men. After the service thirty-four adults were baptised, and -in the afternoon a Communion Service was held, at which 550 Church -members gathered round the table of our Lord. On the following days I -attended meetings of Church members and Christian workers and of women, -inspected the schools, and had interviews with some of the leading men. - -The present Chief, Seapapico, is a young man of twenty-six, and the son -of Bathoen, who accompanied Khama to England in 1895. The young man was -educated at Lovedale, and speaks English well, and was a great support -to the missionary, Mr. Howard Williams. His mother, Bathoen’s widow, is -a fine Christian woman and gives great assistance to Mrs. Williams in -her work amongst the women of the tribe. She was the favourite daughter -of Sechele, the old Chief of the Bakwena tribe. When she was a girl she -had a quarrel with a friend and destroyed her eyesight with a thorn. -Sechele had one of his daughter’s eyes put out, on the principle of “an -eye for an eye,” and she bears the mark of this parental correction to -this day. - -From Kanye I was driven in the Chief’s cart to the railway at Lobatsi, -whence on the following day I was escorted by the native ordained -minister, Roger K. Mokadi, to his station at Maanwane, over the -Transvaal border. After a service in the Church and a visit to Roger’s -kraal, a hot tramp under a fierce sun brought us at Mabotsa to the -ruins of the old Mission house built by Livingstone and Edwards. Some -of the walls were standing seven or eight feet high, but the interior -was overgrown with bush. Close by is the hill where Livingstone had -his famous encounter with the lion, and near at hand an old native -Christian lives who was with Livingstone at the time. A drive through -Linokani, where the German Lutherans are carrying on a fine piece of -missionary work, brought me to Zeerust and next day by means of the -train I reached Johannesburg. It does not fall within the scope of -this book to describe this wonderful city, the creation of the last -twenty-five years. It is by far the largest business town in South -Africa and is the centre of the greatest gold producing mines in the -world. Here I experienced the utmost kindness from members of the -Congregational Church and met my colleague, Mr. Houghton, with whom -I was to travel for the next nine months. Nor must I stay to refer -to a deeply interesting visit to Pretoria. At these great centres -the evidence of the appalling racial conflict, which constitutes the -greatest problem confronting the Christian Church in South Africa -to-day, was abundantly apparent. - -A few days later I travelled to Mafeking, for ever immortalised for -its heroic defence during the Boer war, to see Colonel Panzera, the -Resident Commissioner for the Bechuanaland Protectorate, and thence -proceeded to Tiger Kloof to meet all the Society’s South African -missionaries for consultation upon the work and its problems. - -Throughout my journeys amongst the Churches in Bechuanaland and -Matebeleland there were many signs of the growing power and promise of -the Native South African Church. That Church, planted first by Moffat -and his colleagues at Kuruman, and carried north by Livingstone and -his successors until it has well-nigh reached the Zambesi, has had a -chequered career, but its progress has been unmistakably onward and -upward. It has been tried and purified by the struggles of the past, -and to-day its “far-flung battle line” is making a steady advance -against the forces of superstition and heathenism with which it is -confronted. - -“Climbing through darkness up to God,” the members of that Church -are bravely carrying “the wonder and the glory of the light” into -“the darkness and the sorrow of the night” in which so many of their -fellow-countrymen are still enshrouded. Through the open doors “the -true Light, which lighteth every man coming into the world,” is pouring -its ever-brightening rays. - - - - - CHAPTER III - - Tiger Kloof--“A Lamp Shining in a Dark Place” - - From North, and South, and East, and West - They come. - - JOHN OXENHAM. - - -The crown of the work of the L. M. S. in South Africa is the Tiger -Kloof Native Institution. Ten years ago the site on which its buildings -now stand was bare veldt. To-day it is a centre of light for all the -L. M. S. work in South Africa. Situated on the Cape-to-Cairo Railway, -767 miles north of Cape Town, the Institution buildings, which -challenge the attention of every passing traveller, are a monument to -the princely munificence of that great missionary-hearted man Robert -Arthington of Leeds, to the energy, ability, devotion and far-seeing -statesmanship of the Rev. W. C. Willoughby, and to what can be -accomplished by the South African boys trained in the Institution, who -have erected most of the buildings which are now so notable a feature -of the landscape.[3] - -It is to Tiger Kloof that the brightest and best boys, who have -received their early training at the Mission stations of the Society in -South Africa, are sent to complete their education. It is from Tiger -Kloof that the teachers and preachers, who are to be God’s instruments -in building up the growing Native Church, proceed after receiving -training to fit them for their work. Tiger Kloof is the strategic -centre of the Society’s work in South Africa. In the coming days it -will also be the training place for teachers and preachers connected -with the Central Africa Mission. - -Within the limits of this sketch it is impossible to describe the -manifold activities of this great Institution. I visited it on three -occasions, and altogether spent upwards of a month there, and I had -many opportunities of seeing and learning to appreciate the great work -which is carried on. At the present time there are nearly 200 students -in residence. - -On the 8th March, 1904, Mr. Willoughby and his wife outspanned their -waggon, and that a borrowed one, on the veldt at the corner of a large -farm which the Society had previously bought. The word “farm” conveys -a false impression. It was an unfenced wilderness covered with stone -and low bush. The foundation stone of the Institution was laid in -1905 by Earl Selborne, the Governor of Cape Colony. Year after year -buildings have been added, and the Institution now comprises a fine -dining-hall with a clock tower, six dormitories, commodious school and -class rooms, carpenters’ and tailors’ shops and work-rooms, offices and -residences for the members of the staff, and a series of cottages for -the theological students and their families. - -In the scholastic department the boys are taught the subjects -prescribed by the Cape code. There is an excellent normal school for -the training of teachers. Apprentices are taught masonry, carpentry, -tailoring and office work, and there is a theological department where -the students are trained for the ministry. - -On arrival at Tiger Kloof the visitor to whom the Institution wishes -to show honour is met by the boys in full-dress Sunday uniform and the -Band. As such visitors are not infrequent the sight of the boys at the -Siding, smartly attired in their blue uniforms, and the strains of the -Band help to make known the Institution to the numerous travellers -passing through by train. - -Daily Prayers are held in the Hall at 6.45 a.m. precisely. The English -language is employed and the Mill Hill School Service book is used. -These gatherings for morning prayers are characterised by a quiet -dignity and reverence which is very impressive. The singing is good -and the musical responses are very effectively rendered. The singing -of “Crown Him Lord of all,” to the tune “Diadem,” will not soon be -forgotten by those who have listened to it. After prayers the boys -march out of the Hall and form themselves into companies outside and -proceed to the parade ground for drill. The discipline is perfect. The -work of the Institution has constantly received high praise from the -Government Inspectors, and large Government grants are earned. - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_W. C. Willoughby._ - - PORTION OF TIGER KLOOF INSTITUTION. - - Right to left: DORMITORY, DINING HALL, PRINCIPAL’S HOUSE BEYOND.] - -The influence of the work there is already being felt throughout the -South Africa Mission. Not only are ordained pastors and certificated -teachers, who have received their training at Tiger Kloof, to be found -at the various stations, but masons and carpenters who have learnt -their trades there, after returning to their homes, occupy themselves -with erecting Churches, schools and houses, and in many cases their -life and example is a blessing to the people amongst whom they live. -In this and other ways Tiger Kloof is making its contribution to the -building up of a strong Christian Church in South Africa, and sending -out Christian youths to spread the light in many a dark place. - -An Institution on similar lines for girls is in course of erection at -Tiger Kloof. When it gets to work the most promising girls from the -different Mission stations will be sent there for higher training. Many -of them will become the wives of the preachers and teachers, and thus -it is hoped will help to build up Christian homes in South Africa, -which will be centres of light in different parts of the field. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] The genesis and development of the great work at Tiger Kloof is -admirably described in the Handbook by Mr. Willoughby, entitled “Tiger -Kloof,” published by the L.M.S. Price, 1s. net; post free 1s. 2d. - - - - - B.--CENTRAL AFRICA - - - - - CHAPTER IV - - The Heart of the Dark Continent - - Watchman, what of the night? - The Watchman said, The morning cometh. - - ISAIAH. - - The night is far spent and the day is at hand. - - ST. PAUL. - - -After four and a-half months spent in South Africa, where the Native -Church has been planted for a century, I proceeded north to Central -Africa, where missionary work is in its early stages and the Native -Church in its infancy. Leaving Tiger Kloof towards the end of March, -I travelled by the Cape-to-Cairo Railway through the Protectorate and -Southern Rhodesia, and was joined by the other member of the Central -African Deputation, Mr. Houghton, at the Victoria Falls. The Railway -took us to Ndola, 1,373 miles north of Tiger Kloof. There we were met -by Mr. Nutter, of Mbereshi, in our Central Africa Mission, and over 100 -native carriers who were to be our companions for many a day to come. -Before attempting any description of travel in Central Africa it will -be well to say something about the country itself. - -[Illustration: MAP OF CENTRAL AFRICA, SHOWING L. M. S. MISSION STATIONS. - - (Kambole should be west, and not south of Kafukula).] - -As late as the middle of last century maps of Africa described the -central regions of the Dark Continent as unexplored. The labours -of Livingstone, his contemporaries and successors have revealed to -the peoples of the West a vast area as extensive as Europe which is -somewhat vaguely described as Central Africa. Towards the end of -the century this great expanse of country had been parcelled out -amongst the great Powers of Europe. Internal peace has taken the -place of tribal warfare, and the land has been thrown open to Western -colonization. Foremost amongst the pioneers of civilization has been -the Christian Missionary, and one of the earliest Societies to enter -the field was our own. A remarkable and immediate result of the -travels of Livingstone was the occupation of Central Africa by some -of the missionary organizations of Britain. The work commenced by our -own Society, the Church Missionary Society, the Universities’ Mission -and the Presbyterian Missions was due directly or indirectly to the -influence of that great Missionary explorer--David Livingstone. - -Central Africa exercises a singular fascination on those who visit it. -Its great lakes, its mighty rivers, its boundless forests, its glorious -sunshine, the black races which inhabit it, all combine to make travel -in that region a unique and delightful experience. In our case that -travel was made the more pleasant by the company of one and another of -our missionaries on our journeys, and the great privilege we enjoyed -of fellowship with them and their families in their homes, and the -opportunities afforded us of seeing something of the work which they -are carrying on amongst the people of the land. - -One of the first impressions a traveller receives is that of the -vastness of the territory and the comparative sparseness of the -population. These facts, together with the want of facilities for rapid -travel, constitute serious difficulties in carrying on missionary work. - -My colleague and I were the first Deputation from the Society to -visit Central Africa. As long ago as 1879 the Directors accepted an -offer from the Society’s Foreign Secretary, Dr. Mullens, to visit the -Mission. He proceeded to Zanzibar and started on his journey to Lake -Tanganyika, but died at Chakombe in July of that year and was buried -in the C. M. S. cemetery at Mpwapwa, between Tabora and Dar-es-Salaam. -Since that day conditions of travel and of life in Northern Rhodesia -(which is the part of Central Africa in which the L. M. S. carries on -nearly all its work) have completely changed. No more striking evidence -of the change can be afforded than a comparison between the experiences -of the early missionaries and of their successors, twenty-five years -later. The average term of service for the first ten missionaries -who served in Central Africa was well under three years. The ten -missionaries at present on the field have already to their credit an -average term of service of thirteen years, and the majority of them are -still under forty years of age. Moreover, in the first ten years of the -Mission eleven missionaries died on the field, and six were invalided -home, and (with one exception) did not return. During the last ten -years not a single missionary has died on the field, and no missionary -has retired on account of ill-health. - -It was our good fortune to visit Central Africa during its winter, and -our experience of the climate was altogether delightful. Even during -the hot season the heat is not so extreme as might be expected from -the geographical position of the country. At the Society’s stations -the thermometer seldom, if ever, reaches 100° Fahrenheit during the -hottest season--a point often exceeded further south. Nevertheless, -Central Africa is still a trying place for many people. The liability -to malarial fever, dysentery, and cognate diseases is considerable. -Nor must it be forgotten that all our stations are necessarily at a -high altitude above sea level. The lowest of them--Kafukula--is nearly -as high as the top of Snowdon, while all the remaining stations are -between 4,700 and 5,600 feet up, except Mbereshi, the altitude of which -is 3,900 feet. Life at this altitude is often trying to the nerves and -heart, and the strain is all the more severe owing to the impossibility -of securing a substantial change of altitude without great expenditure -of time and money. The distance to the coast is so great, the travel -is so trying, and the cost is so heavy that it is practically -impossible for our missionaries and their families to obtain a complete -change--either as a mid-term furlough or otherwise. - -Perhaps the best indication of the changed conditions of life and the -improved health of the Mission in these later days is afforded by the -splendid health enjoyed by the missionaries’ children. The picture -facing this page speaks for itself. - -But there is an aspect of life in Central Africa which must not be -over-looked, namely its isolation. At only one of our stations is -any other white man in residence. There are less than a dozen white -people--officials and a trader--at Kawambwa, the Government station -twenty miles from Mbereshi, and about a dozen at Abercorn--the -Metropolis, as it is called, of the white people in the Society’s -area--ten miles from Kawimbe. - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_Bernard Turner._ - - Hilda. Gay. Kenneth. Ethel. Dennis. Sylvia. Hope. Monica. Marjorie. - Franklin. - - HEALTHY MISSIONARY CHILDREN IN CENTRAL AFRICA.] - -The exercise of a little imagination will enable the reader to realise -something of the loneliness of men and women living in a country -where there are so few people of their own race. Moreover, the Mission -stations are widely separated from each other. Mbereshi is five days’ -journey from Mpolokoso, eight days’ journey from Kambole, nine and -a-half days’ journey from Kafukula, and eleven days’ journey from -Kawimbe. - -For the greater part of the three months following our departure from -the railway at Ndola we lived in tents, and travelled through the -great Central African forest, which in fact extended nearly all the -way from Bulawayo, the capital of Southern Rhodesia, to Dar-es-Salaam, -the capital of German East Africa, situated on the east coast of -the Continent, 80 miles south of Zanzibar. Almost the whole of this -country is a plateau from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the -sea. The southern part of this forest is traversed by the Zambesi, -and the western portion is bounded by the Congo, there known as the -Luapula, while situated on the table-land there are the great lakes of -Bangweolo, Mweru and Tanganyika, the two last of which we visited. In -travelling through the forest one day’s journey is very like another, -although each day abounds with a variety of incidents and new sights -and new experiences for one who visits the country for the first time. -A general description of the means and conditions of travel will -suffice. - -We were almost wholly dependent upon native carriers. With the -exception of bicycles and single-wheeled bush-cars there is no wheeled -traffic in Northern Rhodesia. There are practically no roads in our -meaning of that term. The travel-routes are native paths--often very -narrow and overgrown. In the long grass, which is a remarkable feature -of the country, the path often cannot be seen, but can only be felt by -the feet. There are no inns or rest-houses. Tents, bedding, cooking -utensils, food, etc., must all be carried everywhere. The minimum -number of carriers required by one person on a short journey is about -twelve if a bicycle is used, or eighteen to twenty if a machila is the -means of conveyance. A machila is a chair slung between two poles and -carried by four men. For longer journeys extra men are needed to carry -supplies, or in case of sickness among the carriers. Should native food -not be easily obtained--as at certain seasons is the case everywhere, -and along many of the main travel-routes, more or less constantly all -the year round--five more men are needed for each week that food has -to be carried. Carriers cost about 1s. 6d. per man per week away from -their homes. The general practice is to pay 1s. a week in cash on -discharge, and the balance in calico, cash, salt or food, weekly in -advance. The speed of travel is, of course, dependent on the ability -of the carriers, and the nature of the country traversed, but it may -be taken as about seventeen or eighteen miles a day, or three miles -an hour, including rests. Sometimes over thirty miles is accomplished -with loads, or even more with a letter only. Our average day’s travel -from Ndola to Mbereshi was just under twenty miles, but on two days we -covered over thirty miles. - -Our experience of Central African travel was a delightful one. We left -the rail a week or two before the rainy season comes to an end in most -years, and we had been warned that we should probably meet with a good -deal of rain on our way to Mbereshi. We only had two or three showers -the whole way, and with one trifling exception all these fell after we -were in camp. We tasted some of the joys of crossing Central African -swamps, but with the kindly assistance of our carriers, whose backs and -shoulders were always at our service, we were none the worse. Numerous -rivers and streams were crossed in dug-out canoes, on men’s backs and -shoulders, and by means of tree trunks, stones, or bridges made of the -branches of trees. The Luapula (Congo) was crossed in a steel boat. - -On the recommendation of the missionaries on the spot we had provided -ourselves with bush-cars as our means of conveyance after leaving the -railway. A bush-car is a seat fixed over a motor-cycle wheel with -steel tube shafts back and front. It is propelled by two men, whereas -a machila requires four men, and thus a bush-car halves the cost of -carriers. Moreover, it is a much quicker means of conveyance than a -machila. The experiment was entirely justified. Some days we were -enabled to travel upwards of thirty miles without undue fatigue. - -It may be of interest to describe shortly a typical day’s programme on -“ulendo”--as travel with carriers is universally called in Northern -Rhodesia. We rose at six. Before we had finished dressing a number -of carriers would be besieging our tents to snatch up our boxes and -other luggage in order to make an early start. Within a few minutes -of vacating our tents they would be taken down and made into suitable -loads and our beds and bedding would be packed and carried away. We -breakfasted in the open air about 6.45, and generally by 7.15 or 7.30 -we were under way. It was our custom to walk for the first hour or -two in spite of the heavy dew, which during the first part of our -trip covered the giant grass and the trees until the sun was well up. -Fortunately for us the cavalcade of carriers who had gone on ahead -acted as “dew-driers” by brushing the water off the grass as they -passed along. - -For the most part our journey lay through forest and bush and tall -grass, along native paths or roads three or four feet wide, which -had been made under the direction of the Government, but were often -overgrown with grass and shrubs except for a narrow track a foot or -eighteen inches in width, which had been kept clear by the constant -passing of natives along it. The greater part of our travel was over -the plateau, on which the paths were fairly level except at the -depressions caused by the numerous streams which drain it. From time -to time, however, there were steep, rocky hills to be surmounted, and -there were occasional swamps. It was not often possible to ride more -than a few miles in the bush-car without alighting and walking for some -distance. A very uncomfortable experience is to travel by bush-car or -on a bicycle along a path over which elephants have passed a short time -before. The sensation of bumping over footprints fifteen inches across -and three or more inches deep, and occupying the whole width of the -path, can be better imagined than described. - -We generally took luncheon between twelve and one, at a place where -water was to be found, either in a native village or in the forest. We -often found the table spread and the meal awaiting us, but sometimes we -had to wait long for it if our luncheon box happened to be far behind -us on the road. Then came two or three hours’ further travel before we -finished our journey for the day. Then came a cup of tea, and as soon -as the tents were pitched a bath and change of clothing. We dined about -sunset. Then followed what was to us the most delightful of the day’s -experiences. The rule on “ulendo” is for every man, when he collects -the firewood for his own watch fire, to bring a log for the white -man’s fire. Night after night we had magnificent camp-fires. Often the -missionary accompanying us would gather the men together for a service -round the fire, and sometimes the villagers also came. Those camp-fire -services will long live in my memory. The men would sit round the fire, -most of them naked to the waist, with their faces lit up by the fitful -flames or the light of the moon. They would listen with rapt attention -to the reading of the Scriptures or the words of the missionary, or -would join in prayer, often led by one of themselves, with the utmost -devoutness. But the most impressive part to us of these services was -the hearty and reverent singing of the hymns in the native language to -tunes well-known at home. These people have wonderful verbal memories. -Hymn books seemed quite superfluous. Many of them knew by heart most -of the hymns in their collection, and it was quite evident that they -much enjoyed singing them. After the men had dispersed to their own -camp-fires came an hour or two’s talk round our fire before we sought -the shelter of our tents and our mosquito nets. It was our practice -to join in English evening prayers immediately after dinner. But -often long before we had left our chairs round the fire our native -servants, and oft-times many of the carriers, would spread their mats, -or, failing mats, lay some grass on the ground, as near the fire as -possible, with their bare feet towards it, and wrap themselves in -blanket or cloth and go to sleep under the stars, grateful for the -genial warmth of the fire in the cold night of a Central African -winter, and for the protection it afforded them against the beasts of -prey who were often prowling near at hand. - -Thus we travelled through Northern Rhodesia, visiting the stations of -our Central Africa Mission, calling upon the European Magistrates and -Native Commissioners, meeting Native Head-men and Chiefs, and passing -through numbers of small native villages, at all of which we received -a hearty welcome. When we entered a village, or met native carriers -on the path through the forest, we were greeted with the salutation -“Mutende,” which, being interpreted, means “Peace.” The carriers would -take their loads off their heads or shoulders, squat down on their -haunches, clap their hands and give us their salutation. On leaving -a village we were often accompanied for a mile or two by a running -crowd of natives, consisting for the most part of women with babies -tied upon their backs and laughing children, who would shout and sing -as they ran behind and before the bush-cars or bicycle. We soon got -accustomed to the sight of these natives, nearly all of them naked to -the waist, and many of the children altogether naked. Most of those -whom we saw were smiling, happy-looking people, but that there was -another side to the picture was often painfully apparent. In many -villages the faces of nearly all the adults were marked with small-pox. -We frequently met cripples and lepers. Sore eyes, caused by the smoke -of the wood fires in the huts, for which there is no escape but the -door, were much in evidence, and we heard sad stories of the high rate -of mortality amongst these children of nature. Certain forms of disease -were very prevalent, and laid a heavy toll upon the people. Signs of -the superstition which shadowed their lives, and which is the main -feature of their animistic religions, were abundant. In many a village -the rude “spirit-hut,” with offerings of food spread in front of it was -to be seen, and we heard many sad stories of the influence wielded by -sorcerer and witch-doctor upon the lives of the people. - -Everywhere we experienced the good-will and hospitality of the -inhabitants. On arrival at our camping places a dozen women would -appear with brooms made of the twigs of the trees and brushes to sweep -the site of the camp clean before the tents were pitched. Others would -hasten off to the nearest watering-place to get a supply of water in -very large rough clay vessels for ourselves and our men. We often -pitched our camp in the middle of a village, and on these occasions -many of our men slept in the huts of the villagers which had been -willingly vacated to afford this accommodation. Mealies, manioc, and -native flour would be purchased by the missionary in charge of the -expedition for the men, and fowls and eggs for our own larder. Portions -of Scripture and hymn books would be sold by the missionary, and there -were many applications for them. Wherever we went the people were -always most grateful for any recognition of their efforts to show us -hospitality. Their desire for books for themselves and schools for -their children was everywhere apparent; while they were always willing -to come to the open-air services round the camp-fires. In the parts -of Northern Rhodesia through which our journey lay there were but -small indications of the advance of Mohammedanism from the north, of -which we had heard much. In the territory recognised as the Society’s -field of operations we have the country almost to ourselves. But in -the northern part of this territory there were not wanting indications -that the followers of the “false prophet” were already at work. In the -northern part of Central Africa Islam is advancing like a flood, and it -was clear that unless our Society is able effectively to occupy this -territory, we shall before many years be face to face with the growing -forces of Mohammedanism in its most debased form. The light which is -brightening the sky in Central Africa has this background of threatened -cloud and storm. - - - - - CHAPTER V - - The Brightness of His Rising - - Arise, shine; for thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is - risen upon thee. For, behold, darkness shall cover the earth, and - gross darkness the peoples; but the Lord shall arise upon thee, and - his glory shall be seen upon thee. And nations shall come to thy - light, and kings to the brightness of thy rising.--ISAIAH. - - -After fifteen days’ travel by bush-car, on bicycle, and on foot we -had traversed the 286 miles between the railway and Mbereshi. We -crossed a strip of the Congo-Belge territory shortly after leaving the -railway. At Sakania, the first station over the boundary, all our men -were examined by the doctor, and everyone who had not had small-pox -was vaccinated. We heard a gruesome story of a native postman who had -been arrested a fortnight before, in whose wallet a half-eaten human -foot had been discovered. A day or two later we crossed the Congo back -into Northern Rhodesia again. In the interval many rivers had to be -crossed, sometimes on tree trunks, but more often on the shoulders of -our carriers. The forest was magnificent, one of its most striking -features, perhaps, being the large number of giant ant-hills, some -30 feet high, generally around some great tree, and always covered -with bush and grass, flowers and trees. Butterflies were to be seen -in myriads, exhibiting all the colours of the rainbow. The crossing -of the Congo was a new experience. Descending the hill from the last -Belgian Post Office, Kalunga, the post-master of which was a young -Belgian Count, we crossed a bit of swampy ground on men’s shoulders and -then reached the landing-place, where pandemonium was raging. Our crowd -of carriers were there struggling for the two or three dug-out canoes -in which to transport themselves and their loads across the river, -which at this place--although it is thousands of miles from the sea--is -considerably wider than the Thames at London Bridge. It swarms with -hippopotami and crocodiles. But my most vivid recollection of the Congo -is that one of my bearers managed to drop an iron box containing my -papers into the river. Unfortunately it leaked and considerable damage -resulted. - -The village on the other side, in which we encamped, was typical of -many another village we passed through on our journey. Just behind our -tents were three spirit-huts; all around us were native houses built -of straw and mud, and then came an enormous growth of kaffir-corn -about twelve feet high. Surrounding this was forest, save where the -river wound its tortuous course. In the clear light of the evening the -somewhat sparse foliage stood out with great distinctness against the -blue of the sky, each twig and leaf being defined as if seen through a -stereoscope. The neighbourhood abounds with lions, leopards, elephants, -buffaloes, rhinoceros, zebras and hyenas. - -Half-way on our journey we camped for one night at Fort Rosebery, the -Government centre for the district. There we were the guests of the -Native Commissioner, Mr. Denton Thompson, one of the small band of -young Cambridge men who are now being employed by the Chartered Company -as Magistrates and Native Commissioners. It is satisfactory to be able -to state that almost without exception the Government officials we came -across in Northern Rhodesia were men really interested in the welfare -of the natives and anxious to do their duty by them. Here as elsewhere -we received the kindest hospitality. Whenever we visited the Government -station we were invariably entertained by the officials, to whom no -trouble seemed too great which ministered to our comfort. - -During the following week we passed through country infested with -lions. At Mupeta we saw the skin of an enormous lion which had been -killed the day before. During the previous week this lion had killed -five natives. The people in the village laid a trap for him by tying a -goat in an empty hut, on each side of the door of which they had dug -a pit and had covered them over with laths smeared with mud. At the -bottom of the pits they had fixed spears pointing upwards. The lion -fell into one of them and the natives, who were on the watch, speared -him from above. There were at least a dozen holes in his skin. In -this neighbourhood twenty-two natives had been killed by lions in a -fortnight. We passed through one village where on the previous day a -man had been carried off by a lion, and a day or two before a woman and -a child, who were laying fish traps in the stream, had been killed and -carried away. - -On our arrival at Mbereshi we received a very warm welcome. About five -miles from the station some fifty boys met us and ran with us along the -broad road, which has been made by Mr. Nutter, for some distance into -the forest. The men in charge of the bush-cars raced at full speed. -Groups of people met us nearer the station, all of whom joined the -racing cavalcade. Loud peals of thunder kept reverberating overhead -and drowned the reports of the guns which were fired to welcome us. We -arrived just as the first drops of a terrific thunderstorm fell. Mr. -Nutter’s house was soon crowded with natives, and there was endless -shouting and hand-shaking. Never had the natives had such a time in -Mbereshi. The whole village rose to the occasion and turned out to give -the representatives of the L. M. S. a hearty welcome. On the following -day we were the recipients of numerous presents of fowl, flour, goats -and eggs. - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_Bernard Turner._ - - NATIVE WITH FISH TRAP.] - -Mbereshi is a delightful station with a magnificent view to the -westward from the front of the Mission Houses, rolling parkland and -forest, with the Mofwe Lagoon four miles away on the horizon. Along -the shores of this lake and beyond there are about thirty villages -with a large population, which has settled there as a result of the -regulations to combat the sleeping-sickness. These have had the effect -of driving the Natives from the east and south shores of Lake Mweru -to the Mofwe villages. All the missionary activities of a flourishing -Mission station are in operation. There are Sunday services, schools, -classes for hearers and catechumens, and prayer meetings. The -Christians from the head-station go out to the villages on Sundays to -conduct services. Industrial work is being carried on under the able -superintendence of Mr. Bernard Turner. The fame of the cabinet-making -and carpentry of the boys trained by him is spread far and wide -over Northern Rhodesia. Much of the furniture in the houses of the -Government officials was manufactured here or at Kambole. Medical -work, too, has been carried on at this station, and for several years -a doctor was in residence. Leprosy is common. In the district there -are 147 registered cases, and probably not less than 200 people are -suffering from the disease. Our Mission work was commenced here in -1900, and the early days were times of great trial. One of the first -missionaries, Mr. Purvis, died there in 1901, a fortnight after Mr. -Nutter’s arrival, and his grave is to be seen under a tree near the -Mission houses. In 1903 a missionary and a missionary’s wife died on -two successive days. God buries his workmen, but carries on His work. - -During our stay at Mbereshi we visited Kazembe, the paramount Chief of -the district, who nominally rules over 30,000 people. His town is some -six miles away from Mbereshi, through the thick forest and the long -grass. He received us outside his hut in the centre of the kraal, in -which are a hundred huts for his hundred wives. He was seated on the -ground, gorgeously and grotesquely adorned with beads and skins and -gaily coloured skirts, and wore four large bells, gaiters of beads, and -numerous heavy anklets above his bare feet. - -We sat down on low stools and Mr. Nutter helped us to talk to him. He -showed us his treasures. One was a bloodthirsty-looking dagger which -had belonged to ten chiefs before him, and had often been used to kill -men. He produced a large number of charms, which he believes keep the -lions away, and played tunes on a wooden drum cut by himself out of a -solid tree trunk and decorated with brass-headed nails. He uses this -to call his servants when he wants them. The heads of the drum-sticks -are made of raw rubber. He sent for another and much larger drum made -in the same fashion, and carried by two men on a pole, and also showed -us two dulcimers made of wood and calabash. He gave us some raw green -mealies (Indian corn) to eat. Kazembe smoked cigarettes, and when -a member of the party offered him one he wanted to keep the silver -cigarette-case. Then he took us to the Mission School where there were -186 black boys and girls, many of whom were quite naked, and most of -the rest were dressed in pieces of string! - -A day or two afterwards Kazembe came to pay us a return visit, -accompanied by hundreds of his followers. He was seated on a platform -suspended between two tree trunks and carried by thirty men, a great -umbrella being held over his head. He himself beat his wooden drum to -tell us he was coming, and a man carrying great yellow and black flags -walked in front of him, and when he got off the platform he strutted -about like a peacock. - -Twenty years ago the Chief was a great warrior, and often led his -tribe to battle; but the coming of the British Government and of the -missionaries has changed all that. For fifteen years not a shot has -been fired in anger in his country, and the nearest British soldier or -policeman is stationed more than a thousand miles away at Bulawayo. -Such is the influence of the Pax Britannica in Northern Rhodesia! - -On another day we crossed the picturesque Mbereshi river by the ferry -in two dug-out canoes, passing through masses of cream and mauve -water-lilies, visiting a considerable number of the Mofwe villages, -inspecting the schools and receiving the greetings of the Chiefs and -Headmen, with whom we exchanged gifts. The villages consist of one wide -street, and are almost continuous. The people live on fish and tapioca. -At the farthest point at the north end of the Lagoon was a village, on -the site of an older moated village, where Livingstone stayed for some -weeks when he first visited the district. We interviewed one or two of -the old inhabitants, who well remembered seeing him and were able to -describe him to us. - -After a stay of ten days at Mbereshi we plunged into the forest again -and journeyed to Chiengi on the north-east shore of Lake Mweru, which -was discovered by Livingstone in the late sixties. On the way we -paid a visit to Kashiba, a proposed site for the new station for the -Chiengi district. This visit brought home to us very clearly some of -the discomforts of Central African travel. After leaving our camp we -had to traverse some half-mile of bad swamp, being carried through -several stretches of water on the shoulders of our bearers. I used a -bicycle, but before we had gone very far a tremendous storm broke and -flooded the path. We sought shelter in a hut in one of the villages. -There was a fire inside, the smoke from which filled the hut and only -partially escaped through the thatch and the door. Except for the glow -of the fire and the flashes of lightning seen through the doorway -it was perfectly dark. The village street gradually became a raging -torrent. After the storm had ceased we pushed on through the long -grass, six to ten feet high and laden with water, arching over the -narrow winding path. We passed through a succession of villages, and -as we neared the site of the proposed station the people, who knew why -we were coming and who are most anxious to have a missionary residing -amongst them, gave us an ovation. The site overlooks the rapids of the -great Kalungwishi river, and a mile away a column of spray indicated -the presence of a great waterfall. Another deluge of rain descended -as we turned back. I hastened in front on the bicycle and reached the -swamp as it was getting dark. The heavy rain had converted it into a -lake. I rode along the path until the water was up to the pedals, then -I dismounted and pushed the machine. Soon both wheels were under water. -It grew deeper and deeper until finally, when the water became breast -high, I was obliged to lift the machine and carry it over my head. Such -are the joys of travel in Central Africa! - -Next day we entered the sleeping-sickness area and crossed the great -Game Reserve to get our first sight of Lake Mweru. The day afterwards -we arrived at Chiengi, after experiencing the delights of travelling on -a narrow path along which for miles elephants had been walking after -the rain. Cycling under such conditions is a somewhat trying experience. - -The view of Lake Mweru from the verandah of the Native Commissioner’s -house at Chiengi is of surpassing loveliness. To the south the lake -stretches away as far as the eye can see, bordered on the left side by -the forest and on the right by the mountains of the Belgian Congo 25 -miles away. Opposite, a little to the south, is Lunza, the beautiful -home of Mr. Dan Crawford, the famous author of “Thinking Black.” At -one’s feet the water broke in tiny wavelets on the golden sand. Its -music was in our ears throughout our stay. The Central African sunset -from Chiengi was a sight to be remembered. The sun went down behind a -bar of cloud. A purple light, which rapidly turned to green, lit up the -western shores of the lake. After the sun had sunk below the horizon -there was a perfect blaze of colour over a large portion of the sky, -and purple, green and golden light stretched in broad bands above the -surface of the lake. - -From Chiengi we journeyed to Mpolokoso, the newest of the stations -of the L. M. S. in Central Africa, where Dr. McFarlane has a small -hospital consisting of eight native huts. Our stay here was curtailed -owing to a very serious outbreak of small-pox, nearly half the -inhabitants of the village suffering from this scourge. Most of -those who were not isolated in the segregation camp had already had -the disease. Mpolokoso himself, the Chief of the village, succumbed -to it a few days later. The Government officials were using every -effort to stay the spread of the disease; all infected huts were at -once destroyed by fire, and no one was allowed to enter or leave the -village. The thin columns of smoke ascending from the burning huts into -the cloudless sky told a pathetic tale. On arrival our carriers were -put into custody to prevent them mixing with the people, and every -precaution was taken for the safety of ourselves and our men. One felt -great sympathy with Mr. Cullen Gouldsbury, the Native Commissioner, -upon whom great responsibility rested. Mr. Gouldsbury is a man of many -parts. He is in the service of the British South Africa Company’s -Administration, and we had many indications of the sympathetic way -in which he carried out his duties in looking after the welfare of -the natives. Moreover, he is a poet of no mean order, a constant -contributor of verse to the columns of the _Bulawayo Chronicle_, has -written a delightful book of poems, is the joint author of “The Great -Plateau of Northern Rhodesia,” the most authoritative work on the -country through which we were travelling, and last year published a -book entitled “An African Year.” He has always been a friend of the -Mission, and it will be of interest to quote his testimony from his -latest book, as to one of our missionaries and his wife, which is -rendered all the more valuable by the fact that Mr. Gouldsbury is -himself a Roman Catholic. - - “My views upon missionaries and their work, from the general point of - view, stand recorded elsewhere. I have no intention of recapitulating - them here. Let me rather dwell upon the personal standpoint, as - exemplified in the festive little couple who are our neighbours at - ---- six miles away. - - “Let us call them Saunders--since that is not their name, and quite - sufficiently unlike it--Joseph Saunders and Jane his wife. - - “All missionaries in this country, whether Baptist, Presbyterian, - Church of England, or White Fathers, are hard-working, whatever else - they may be. Saunders himself is a man hung upon wires, each of which - would seem charged with a full circuit of electricity. He and his wife - and the sun rise together--a most energetic trio. Before breakfast - he has conducted service, taught for an hour or two in the school, - visited the workshops and checked the labourers about the station. - During the rest of the day he is occupied with blacksmithery, joinery - and the like--laid in slabs between other chunks of teaching. As - likely as not in the evening he will go out after a buck, for Joseph - Saunders is that _rara avis_ among missionaries, a keen hunter; and - after dinner if there are people in the house he will play ping-pong - till all is blue. Not the ordinary ping-pong, you may be sure; that - does not afford sufficient outlet for his exuberant spirits. Kapembwa - ping-pong has mysterious rules of its own, such as that the players - must bound upon the table between the strokes, or lie flat on the - floor between serving and receiving the return. It is a curious game. - I can generally stay out two sets, after that Beryl (the author’s - wife) and I sit on the sofa and watch Saunders and his wife play. - - “As for Mrs. Saunders, she is one of the nicest little women in - Africa. Demure, placid, and the very antithesis of Joseph--an adorable - touch of Lancashire in her soft drawling speech, and an utter freedom - from affectation or pose of any kind--she is the ideal next-door - neighbour in Central Africa. - - “Saunders sent over the _junga_ for Beryl, so that she was able - to cover the six miles in comparative comfort, while I paddled - furiously behind upon an antediluvian bicycle. For the benefit of - the uninitiated I should perhaps explain that a _junga_ is anything - which moves upon wheels. Originally it meant a bicycle, but in this - particular instance it refers to a marvellous construction, balanced - upon one wheel, which has been built by Saunders himself in the - Kapembwa workshop out of some old packing cases and gas piping, - and which has to my mind solved the question of locomotion in this - country.” - -We stayed for two nights at the Mission house at Mpolokoso with Dr. -McFarlane. On account of the small*pox it was impossible to visit the -schools or to meet with the people, though on the Sunday night some -half-dozen of the Mission staff, who do not live in the village, met us -and presented us with a generous offering to the L. M. S. of £4 12s. -6d., made by the infant Church, which consisted of nine members only, -a welcome token of the missionary spirit of the newest and smallest of -the Central African Churches. - -Travelling eastward from Mpolokoso we reached Kambole, near the south -end of Lake Tanganyika, after three days’ journey. On our way we had -our first view of this great lonely lake, eight miles away through the -trees, probably from the very spot where Livingstone saw it for the -first time. As we approached the station the people ran beside the -bicycle and bush-car shouting their salutations and showing their joy -in welcoming us in many other ways. - -Kambole is the centre of a very widely-scattered district, and is in -an isolated position. The nearest village is an hour and a-half’s walk -away from the station-village, and some out-stations lie three or four -days’ journey distant. It takes the missionaries five weeks’ continuous -travelling to make a circuit of the district. - -Many branches of missionary work are carried on at this centre. We -attended crowded services in the Church, and meetings with the classes -for hearers, catechumens, teachers and women. Some ninety-six youths, -who were teachers at the schools in the outstations, at which there -are 1,800 scholars, gathered at Kambole during our visit to attend the -school for the training of teachers, which is held twice a year at -the head station and lasts for about two months. Mr. Stewart Wright, -one of the Kambole missionaries, carries on an extensive out-patient -work at the dispensary near the wattle-and-daub church. Mr. Ross, the -other missionary, is engaged in manifold activities and has charge -of the industrial department which was established and carried on -so successfully by Mr. Bernard Turner, who is now at Mbereshi. The -prolific mission garden is another indication of the practical value -of Mr. Turner’s work. It is excellently irrigated by the construction -of water-furrows. Palms, limes, bamboos, bananas, yams, pineapples, -guavas, grenadiloes, coffee, wheat, tapioca, rice, rubber, and many -vegetables and flowers flourish abundantly. - -Half-an-hour’s walk from the Mission House, along an eight-foot road -cut through the forest for a mile and a-half, at a total cost of £2 -10s. 0d., takes one to the edge of the Tanganyika Plateau, where there -is a sheer fall of from 400 to 500 feet. On the right is the river, -which descends in a series of beautiful waterfalls, arched over with -foliage and rock, to the level of the lake below. In front the lake -stretches away into the distance extending for 400 miles northward. -It is bordered on the left by the mountains of the Belgian Congo -and on the right by the hills of German East Africa. At the foot of -the precipice is a fertile valley, once thickly populated but now -uninhabited, owing to the sleeping sickness, and through this beautiful -valley flows the river Lovu. - -At Kambole we came across a cripple, by name Kalolo, whose history -affords an illustration of the sort of missionary work which is being -carried on in our Central Africa Mission. - -Mr. Ross found Kalolo at Katwe, near Kambole, in 1906, destitute and -emaciated, cowering over a few embers of fire, his feet a mass of -putrid ulcers, which had not been washed or dressed for many a long -day. He seemed to have no relations. Mr. Ross brought him to the -station at Kambole, and on his arrival prepared lotions for him, and -put him in charge of another youth, also a cripple, whom he told to -wash Kalolo’s sores. Cripple No. 2, by name Nundo, was afraid and -demurred. Mr. Ross took him into the house and read to him the story -of the Good Samaritan, and told him to go and help Kalolo. He then -consented, and assisted the missionary to attend to Kalolo for a long -time. Mr. Ross had taught Nundo to repair boots and shoes, and this -work he did for some time, but ultimately disappeared while Mr. Ross -was on furlough. Mr. and Mrs. Ross did their best for Kalolo for five -years, thus bearing witness to the people of the compassionate spirit -of the Gospel they had come to teach. The Mission doctors when visiting -the station treated Kalolo, but at last (in 1910) Dr. Wareham, after -vainly endeavouring to cure his tedious ulcers by palliative measures, -amputated both feet. When Kalolo returned to consciousness he was so -depressed that he tried to destroy himself. He still bears a scar on -his forehead caused by dashing his head upon the ground in his despair. -He was, however, brought through that crisis, and when he had recovered -he was sent back to Kambole station. A wooden waggon was made in the -joiner’s shop to enable him to get about. Then he was taught boot and -shoe repairing, as the Europeans in the neighbourhood all sent their -boots and shoes to Kambole to be repaired. Kalolo was highly delighted -to have a means of making a living, and became a most useful man at -that station. Later, when Mr. Ross wished to find employment for two -blind men who came seeking work, he put them with Kalolo to grind -wheat. They proved to be a most successful trio at this work, and in -sawing up timber with the cross-cut saw, at which employment they were -engaged during my visit. Kalolo came to Mr. Ross long ago to say that -he wished to join the Enquirers’ Class, and was enrolled. He afterwards -came to the missionary and offered to help to dress the repulsive sores -of another unfortunate occupant of the little station hospital. Thus -the light of the Gospel is spreading in Darkest Africa, and the Native -torch-bearers are lifting it high, and passing it on from hand to hand -until “the beauty and the glory of the Light” shall illumine the people -that are now sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death. - -Accompanied by a large crowd of people, who escorted us on our way -for two or three miles, we left Kambole, still travelling eastward, -for Kafukula, a mission station near the south-eastern corner of -Lake Tanganyika, staying for a night at a village to which some of -the people on the lake shore had been moved in consequence of the -sleeping-sickness. It was amongst these people that Livingstone stayed -for some weeks when he first visited the lake. The exterior of many -of the huts was decorated with charms in the shape of snail shells. -Nearly all the women of the village had holes, about the size of -five-shilling pieces, in the lobes of their ears, in which large discs -of wood, decorated with grotesque specimens of native art, were placed. - - [Illustration: - - _Photo by_] [_Ernest H. Clark._ - - KAFUKULA MISSION HOUSE, WHICH COST £40.] - -On the following day, escorted by Mr. Clark, the Kafukula missionary, -we reached that station, having descended some 2,000 feet from the edge -of the Plateau, enjoying on the way magnificent views of the lake, -near the shores of which we could see the ruins of the old Mission -station at Niamkolo, which we were to visit a few days later. The -Kafukula Mission house is a wattle-and-daub erection, and one of the -most picturesque residences in Central Africa, as will be seen from the -picture on the opposite page. It was built by Mr. Clark in 1910 at a -total cost of £40. The view from the verandah can never be forgotten. -In front the valley shelves down to the lake shore some 300 feet below. -A small island, which is the property of the Society, nestles in the -lake close to the bank, while beyond away to the north stretch the -crystal waters in their mysterious loneliness. The eastern shore is -visible for some distance, but the western is hidden by the trees in -the foreground. This exquisite picture is framed by the forest-crowned -hills on either side. - -We had a great reception. As soon as we were seen descending the hill -the drums began to beat, the bugle sounded and a gun was discharged. -The people showed their gladness by smacking their mouths with their -hands while emitting a clear bell-like sound. At the bottom of the hill -the village Headman, a Christian, and a Church member of many years’ -standing, met us, and we walked into the village between rows of people -who, as we passed along, closed in behind and formed a long procession. -Here and there were groups of children singing hymns, some of them in -the native language and some in English. We passed through the village -and down the slope to the beautiful river Lunzua, a rushing torrent, -over which a primitive bridge of tree-trunks and mud in the shape of a -crescent moon leads to the path to the Mission house, which is situated -on a hill on the other side and is reached by a flight of forty-five -steps. - -Kafukula is the village to which many of the people from Niamkolo on -the lake shore were moved in consequence of the sleeping-sickness -regulations. During our stay we paid a visit to Niamkolo and the lake. -The following description, written on the evening of the day of our -visit, will speak for itself:-- - - “We were up early--as is usual in Central Africa. After breakfast - we started for Niamkolo and the lake shore. On Mr. Clark’s advice I - donned my ‘ulendo’ dress--a large white sun-helmet, a khaki flannel - bush-shirt, khaki shorts, and stout boots and stockings and leather - leggings. The Mission family accompanied us, Mrs. Clark travelling in - a machila; the children--Dennis and Marjorie Clark--were accommodated - in a box slung on a pole, carried by two men. My colleague travelled - in a chair suspended between two poles and carried by relays of four - men. Mr. Clark and I walked. It was a glorious morning. We stayed for - a few moments at two villages to see the schools, or rather to see the - teacher and his scholars, for school is held in a kind of stockade - open to the sky, but partially shaded by a tree. The children sang - lustily some verses of Mambwe hymns. Like all Central Africans they - have wonderful memories, and soon learn the hymn-book of nearly one - hundred hymns by heart. - - “The walk was somewhat arduous, as much of it was through very long, - thick, bamboo-like grass. Beyond the second village the land is - uninhabited, and is forbidden ground owing to the sleeping-sickness - regulations. We had to obtain special passes from the officials at - Abercorn to permit us to make the trip. Mr. Clark had gone down with - thirty men a week before to clear the path as much as possible and to - burn the grass where necessary and practicable. It was an eight-mile - walk to the former Mission station at Niamkolo, and nearly two miles - further to the shore. The old station was a pathetic sight. The brick - house in which the Stewart Wrights and the Clarks had lived was in - ruins, as it had been left after the fire seven years ago. The walls - were standing to the first floor, and inside trees, shrubs and grasses - were growing in wild profusion. It was on Saturday evening, the 29th - June, 1906, that the detached kitchen took fire in a great gale of - wind. The sparks were carried on to the thatch of the dwelling house, - and in two hours the place was burnt out--very little being saved. - The Clarks were there to see their home destroyed before their eyes. - This was the first time Mrs. Clark had visited the spot since the - conflagration. - - “Then came the walk down the hill past the site of the house in which - Mr. and Mrs. Hemans, the black missionaries from Jamaica, used to - live. Then we crossed the plain, once a great garden and rice field, - now a swamp, to reach the Church and the shore. I was carried across - the swamp by two men holding hands, on which I sat with my arms round - their necks. We reached the ruins of the Church about mid-day. It - is picturesquely situated on a hill overlooking the south end of - the lake, and the island belonging to the Society. Its appearance - suggests, on a smaller scale, the ruins of Iona Cathedral far more - than those of a Church in Central Africa. The walls and gable end - and the roofless bell-tower are still standing--and what walls - they are!--all of light stone fashioned in large slabs, and a yard - thick. We had lunch in the bell-tower in some trepidation, as the - over-hanging stones threatened to fall, and then we made our way down - to the stony beach, where we lingered long. The scene was beautiful - beyond description. The lake stretched away to the north into the - ‘glow and glory of the distance,’ where water and sky met on the - horizon. The hills on each side were clothed with sylvan loveliness. - The sky was reflected on the bosom of the water. White cloud was piled - on white cloud with many a glimpse of deepest blue, and the glorious - sunshine dominated the scene. It was a dream of beauty. - - “The beach is covered with the loveliest shells of all descriptions. - As we sat on the shore the wind blew the spray from the waves into our - faces. The children and I paddled, and though, doubtless, there were - crocodiles in the bulrushes to our left, we did not see any. After tea - we turned our faces towards Kafukula. Long before we arrived at our - destination the shadows of departing day crept on, and by the time - we reached the villages it was quite dark. The sunset was worthy of - the beauty of the day. For some moments the western sky looked like - the very gate of the eternal. Then the fireflies flitted about in - thousands. Their light was, however, from time to time obliterated, - as it were, by flashes of summer lightning. Then the moon came out, - nearly at her fullest, and lit up the landscape with clear, cool, - placid light, and in the solemn beauty of the scene we forgot all - about the lions and puff-adders which infest the country after dark. - - “We had a great reception in the villages. The people all turned out - and greeted us, and bade us farewell with ear-splitting salutations, - following us for two miles and keeping up an unearthly noise all the - time. Then all was peaceful again as Mr. Clark and I reached Kafukula, - and crossed the arched bridge over the rushing river, and climbed up - the steps to the Mission House. From the verandah we could see the - great lake ten miles away peacefully asleep in the moonlight. It has - been a glorious day, which will live in the memory as long as life - lasts.” - -Evangelistic and educational work is carried on in Kafukula itself and -in the district of which it is the centre. Services and classes for -inquirers and catechumens are regularly held, and the missionary visits -the whole district three times a year, conducting services, inspecting -schools, interviewing inquirers and carrying on the usual missionary -activities. There are seventy-nine teachers connected with the station -whose wages range from £1 (one senior teacher alone gets this; the next -gets 9s. 6d.), to 1s. 6d. a month, and these wages are only paid during -the six or seven months that teaching in the schools is carried on. If -the teacher is placed far from his home he gets in addition 1s. a month -for food. There is also an evangelist, paid at the rate of 6s. a month, -who visits and preaches in the villages. There are 1,300 scholars in -thirty-two schools, and their education consists of reading, writing, -very elementary arithmetic and the memorising of the Lord’s Prayer, the -Commandments, the Beatitudes and other passages of Scripture and hymns. -Valuable medical work is also carried on. Some of the teachers acquire -a little knowledge of the English language, which they are proud to -show off on occasion. After our meeting with the teachers we received a -letter in English, signed by some seventy of them and addressed to the -Directors, from which the following extracts may be given as specimens -of their English scholarship. The opening sentence is as follows: - - “We are exceedingly glad to write you this little note to give you - a hearty greeting to you all in this district, so that the old men, - women childrens, boys and girls and whose tribes of this country are - anxiously to send you a good compliments as they couldn’t reach there - to see your faces or to gathered in the same Church.” - - It goes on: “But we were very glad to receipt those representatives - who came from their long journey as far as when they came from and we - had a very good general service and Mr. Horlick was one who had held - the service in our Church and it was interests wonderful to hear from - him about his describes preaching he told us many things about jesus - christ our saviour and how a man would follow the secularity of the - kingdom of God.” - - The letter concluded as follows: “We thanks you very much for sending - us these Deputation to visit us and to hear many things from them - how do you loved us. We haven’t more information to tell you about. - farewell, Sirs with lots of salutation to all. We hope you are whole - in good health we should like to hear if you are better.” - -“Mr. Horlick” requires some explanation. The natives were not familiar -with the names of the strangers who had come amongst them, but seeing -on the walls of the verandah a glazed sheet, which had arrived a few -days before, advertising the merits of “Horlick’s Malted Milk,” they -assumed that this “banner with a strange device” had some reference to -their visitors. Hence the mistake. - -From Kafukula we continued our journey eastward to Kawimbe, the oldest -of the Society’s Mission stations in Central Africa. On the road, which -was hilly and very beautiful, we were met by Dr. Wareham. At Abercorn, -the Government centre for the northern part of Northern Rhodesia, we -were hospitably entertained by the Magistrate, and then we continued -our journey to Kawimbe, ten miles away, where another great welcome -awaited us. Hundreds came out to meet us, many of the women and girls -being decorated for the occasion with yellow and red flowers in their -black woolly hair. They escorted us, laughing, singing and dancing all -the way to the Mission station, which is 5,600 feet above the level -of the sea, and picturesquely situated in a shallow basin. The native -village is built on the hillside half-a-mile away, and is well laid -out. Four miles off to the west is Fwambo, the original site of the -first Mission station on the Tanganyika Plateau. A few miles to the -east is the boundary between Northern Rhodesia and German East Africa. -To the south-east is the fertile and populous Saise Valley, forty miles -along which the sphere of the Society’s work abuts upon the field of -the great Livingstonia Mission of the Free Church of Scotland. It may -be mentioned that the river Congo takes its rise a few miles south of -the Mission station. We remained at Kawimbe for nearly three weeks. -The Annual Meetings of the Central Africa District Committee were held -there during our stay. The first week was spent in seeing the work, -visiting parts of the district and interviewing the missionaries and -preparing for the meetings of the District Committee. One day, under -the guidance of Mr. Govan Robertson, we spent over twelve hours in -visiting several of the villages of the district, and accomplished the -latter part of the journey in the dark. We shall long remember the -struggle in the dusk through the almost impenetrable undergrowth of a -picturesque mountain pass, and afterwards through the long grass. - -The three Sundays spent at Kawimbe were days of great interest. On -the first two large numbers of people came in to meet us from the -neighbouring villages. On the second a crowded harvest-thanksgiving -service was held at which offerings in kind were contributed, including -sheep, goats, fowl, eggs, nuts, maize, beans, flour, cloth, bracelets, -cash, etc. On the third Sunday I visited one of the adjacent villages -with Mr. Robertson. Communion Services for the Native Christians -and the Missionaries were held. An interesting incident during our -stay was the unveiling of a brass tablet in the Church commemorating -the twenty-fifth anniversary of the commencement of the work on the -Plateau. - -The work at Kawimbe is divided amongst the three missionaries by mutual -arrangement. We had not the pleasure of meeting the senior missionary, -Mr. Draper, who was away on furlough. - -An early morning prayer meeting, a morning service and an afternoon -class are held every Sunday. The number of Church members has been -steadily increasing in later years and has now reached forty-seven. -There are in addition fifty Catechumens (Christians under probation). -The Church work, as far as the men are concerned, has been affected -by the attraction of better pay offered elsewhere at the mines, -in the stores and in German East Africa. Most, however, of the -Christian men who have remained at Kawimbe have gone out regularly to -preach, and some have conducted Bible classes in the villages in the -neighbourhood. Besides the station classes and Sunday schools there -have been during last year classes in fifty-three villages, attended -by over 900 persons. There is a branch of the International Bible -Reading Association. The Educational work makes steady progress, and -schools are held in every village in the extensive district. At the -close of 1912 there were 2,408 children on the school rolls, with an -average attendance of 1,691. For the most part the school buildings -are provided by the people themselves. Dr. Wareham carries on a much -valued medical work, connected with which is a small hospital admirably -adapted for its purpose. - -Our visit to Kawimbe completed our tour of the Society’s Central Africa -stations. - -Northern Rhodesia can still be described as a land that is dark, but at -the mission stations we visited, and at many a little outstation, the -light of the Gospel is being kindled, and everywhere there is promise -that the darkness is turning to dawning. The Church is in its infancy, -but it is a growing Church; and, under the blessing of God, will in the -days that are coming be His instrument in spreading the light where now -the darkness reigns. - - - - - C.--MADAGASCAR - - - - - CHAPTER VI - - =Tananarive--“A City Set on a Hill”= - - Earth has not anything to show more fair; - Dull would he be of soul who could pass by - A sight so touching in its majesty: - This City now doth, like a garment, wear - The beauty of the morning. - - WORDSWORTH. - -We travelled from Kawimbe in Northern Rhodesia to Madagascar by way -of German East Africa and Zanzibar. Owing to unavoidable delays at -the ports the journey occupied ten weeks. For the first three we -travelled by chair and bicycle and on foot, northward to Tabora, along -a road almost parallel with the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika. On -the first night we encamped at a village near the Kalambo river, the -boundary between Northern Rhodesia and German East Africa, close to -the wonderful Kalambo Falls. The river, which is deep and about thirty -yards wide, plunges over a perpendicular wall of rock 900 feet high -into an awful chasm in one sheer drop. The rocky walls on each side -of the gorge are vertical. Looking westward one has a lovely view -of Lake Tanganyika, vignetted between cloudless blue sky and the -purple-breasted mountains in which the gorge terminates, lying calm and -peaceful in the “splendour shadowless and broad.” - -A week-end was spent at Kasanga, now known as Bismarckburg, the -administrative centre of the southern part of German East Africa, where -we met some educated and courteous German officials, who have always -done what they could to facilitate the missionary work of the Society -in the small section of their territory in which it is being carried -on, and gave us some interesting information with regard to native -customs and superstitions. We learnt that the natives offer sacrifices -of goats, sheep and fowls at the Kalambo Falls to propitiate the gods -who are supposed to dwell in the chasm, and to bring them luck. They -have a superstition that the land at the bottom of the Falls would -belong to the posterity of any person who threw himself over. A woman -recently sacrificed herself in this way, and the Chief gave the land -at the foot of the Falls to her family. When twins are born it is the -custom to do away with one of them. Children who cut the upper teeth -first are killed. Cannibalism amongst the natives is by no means -extinct, and as late as six years ago a European was killed and eaten. -There are well authenticated recent cases of the widow of a Chief being -buried alive in the grave of her dead husband. This part of German East -Africa is certainly a land that is dark. - -But I must not linger over the journey. Towards the end of June we -reached Tabora, a large native town of some 30,000 inhabitants, whence -we took train to Dar-es-Salaam on the east coast of the Continent--the -capital of the German colony. This place is beautifully situated on -the shores of a land-locked harbour, and the streets are bordered -with stately cocoanut palms and shady acacias. It was formerly the -centre of the Arab slave trade, but, to-day, except for the tropical -vegetation, it reminds one of a modern European town. A few hours on -a steamer brought us to Zanzibar, one of the most fascinating places -we visited in our travels. After a stay of some days there we embarked -on the Messageries Maritimes boat for Tamatave, on the east coast of -Madagascar. On the boat we joined our colleague in the Deputation work -in Madagascar, Mr. Talbot Wilson, and with him were the three members -of the Deputation from the Friends’ Foreign Mission Association, and -one of the Deputation from the Paris Missionary Society. A voyage of -seven days, calling on the way at ports on the north-west and northern -coast of Madagascar, brought us to the Port of Tamatave, some 1,500 -miles south of Zanzibar. From Tamatave we travelled by the splendidly -engineered new French railway to Tananarive, a distance of 239 -miles, passing on the way great lagoons near the sea coast, crossing -picturesque rivers, traversing belts of beautiful forest, and rising -by circular curves on the railway up the mountain side to the Central -Plateau of Madagascar, some 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. As -the train neared the capital it was joined by various missionaries who -had come part way to meet us. At the terminus--a great modern station -lit with arc lamps--nearly all the missionaries at work in the city -and around it, and thousands of Malagasy Native Christians in their -straw hats and white lambas, met us, and gave us a great welcome. - - [Illustration: MAP OF MADAGASCAR, SHOWING L. M. S. STATIONS. - - Madagascar is nearly 1,000 miles in length. Its area exceeds that of - France, Belgium and Holland put together, but its population is less - than one-fourteenth of that of these countries. ] - -Tananarive is built upon a very narrow lofty ridge in the middle of -far-spreading rice fields, bordered by ranges of hills and mountains. -The ridge, which rises rapidly from the north, runs due south, and is -crowned at its highest point by the Palace of the former kings and -queens of the Island, which can be seen from a great distance around. -The crest consists of a steeply-rising thoroughfare, from many points -of which both horizons, east and west, can be seen. In the northern -portion, known as Faravohitra, are several of the Society’s mission -houses, and at the top is the Faravohitra Memorial Church. Continuing -southward, and still rising for the greater part of the way, the -British Consulate is passed on the right, and a short way beyond -this on the left is the massive building, now known as the Palais de -Justice, which was formerly the L. M. S. Theological College. After -a slight depression the road winds steeply upwards, until, leaving -the Palace of the Prime Minister on the left, and catching sight -of the Memorial Church of Ampamarinana on the right, we arrive at -the Queen’s Palace. The ridge then falls and rises again until its -southern extremity is reached at Ambohipotsy, where stand another of -the Memorial Churches and the present United Theological College of the -L. M. S. and F. F. M. A., and some Mission houses. The view is one of -great grandeur, especially looking to the west and to the south-west -towards the rugged ridges of the Ankaratra mountains. Looking -northwards one sees the wooded slopes of Ambohimanga, the ancient -capital of Imerina, like a crouching lion dark against the distant -hills. On the west, at the foot of the northern part of the ridge, is -the great Analakely market, which on Fridays is visited by thousands -of people, and adjoining the market is our handsome Analakely Church, -while beyond are the Residency, the railway station and the shops and -offices of the modern French town. A little above this the spire of -the Ambatonakanga Memorial Church and the two large school buildings -adjoining can be seen standing at the junction of two main roads, where -the traffic is at its busiest. One of the features of the landscape in -Tananarive is the large number of Church spires and towers which can be -seen on the plains below. It is said that there are some 150 of them -in sight, by far the greater number of them being now, or formerly, -Churches connected with the London Missionary Society. - -We had come to Madagascar from Central Africa, where missionary work -was in its earliest stages. In the “great African Island” the contrast -was very striking. There is only one brick Church in the Central Africa -Mission, the rest being wattle-and-daub. In Madagascar there are many -hundreds of spacious well-built brick Churches, and some handsome stone -ones. In Central Africa the Church is in its infancy, and comprises -less than 150 Church members. In Madagascar there are over 30,000 -Church members, and nearly five times as many other native adherents. -The magnificent results which have followed the work of the Society’s -missionaries, under the blessing of God, are everywhere apparent. -Wherever we went great crowds of Christian people gathered together to -meet us as the representatives of the L. M. S. The Churches were nearly -always full and often crowded to overflowing. - -The congregations find great enjoyment in the singing of hymns, and -very large numbers read their Bibles, while Sunday School work is -splendidly organized. A considerable proportion of the Church members -take part in Christian work. There are more than seven times as many -ordained native agents at work in connection with the Society in -Madagascar as in all the other Mission fields of the Society combined, -except Polynesia. In addition, there are over 2,500 preachers, a number -largely in excess of the number of preachers in all the other fields of -the Society put together. Moreover, the number of Church members and of -other native adherents in Madagascar connected with the Society is far -more than those in any other Mission field, and the same remark applies -to the number of Sunday Schools and Sunday School scholars. - -One cannot fail to be much impressed by the great capacity of the -Native leaders of the Christian Church in Madagascar. It would be -difficult to find a more capable set of men in any Mission field. They -are doing splendid work, and if this “apostolic succession” can be -maintained, the Malagasy Church of the coming days will not lack for -competent native leadership. - -Moreover, as the work of our Missionaries in Madagascar is examined, -it becomes clear that the Mission is admirably organized. The men and -women who have served the Society in Madagascar in the past have, -under the guidance of God, laid the foundations of the work wisely and -well. Their successors are worthy of their great heritage. It was a -cause for rejoicing to find that the Native Church built upon those -foundations is a strong and living Church--full of promise for the -future. If the present Missionary work can be continued, and possibly -slightly increased, for a few more years, there is every reason to -hope that the Native Church will, in the not distant future, become a -self-supporting, self-governing, as it is already, to a limited extent, -a self-propagating Church, and strong enough to carry on its own work -of evangelizing the whole island. - -This growing Native Church is largely composed of Hovas, the -most advanced tribe among the Malagasy, and is to a great extent -concentrated in the Central Province of Imerina round Tananarive. This -is not an accident. It is believed that the best way to bring about the -coming of the Kingdom in the Island is to build up a strong Church in -the centre. As that Church increases in numbers and in spiritual power -it will be able to extend its own Missionary efforts, which are already -not inconsiderable, and to dispense, as time goes on, with the help of -the white Missionary to an ever-increasing degree, thus freeing him for -any work that remains to be done in the outlying parts, and ultimately -making it possible for him to withdraw altogether--having finished -his work. To weaken our efforts at the present time would be to delay -and imperil this consummation. To maintain them will be the surest -and most speedy way of hastening on the day when the Missionary force -can be withdrawn and the Native Church left to bring each successive -generation into the Kingdom. - -There were many indications that the Native Church is itself steadily -keeping in view this ideal. I may quote a paragraph from the -translation of an Address presented to us by the Pastors of the Commune -of Tananarive the day after our arrival: - - “We want you to know that we earnestly desire our Churches to become - independent, i.e. self-supporting. It is natural for young people to - want to set up housekeeping for themselves, and it is the same with - the Church. The near approach of the hundredth anniversary of the - arrival of Missionaries amongst us makes our hearts all aglow with the - desire for the independence of our Churches. There is no day which we - should more like to see than that on which we shall go with the last - Missionary to the railway station. On that day we shall overflow with - joy and sorrow, and our laughter will mingle with our tears.” - -The inner circle of Churches in Imerina is associated with seven -Churches in the capital known as “the Mother Churches.” Four of -these are the Memorial Churches erected in the years following the -re-opening of the Mission in 1862, after the twenty-five years of -the great persecution. The oldest and most famous is the Church of -Ambatonakanga, which was opened in 1867. It is the Mother Church of all -Madagascar. On its site the Bible was first printed in Malagasy in the -thirties of the nineteenth century, here the first converts made their -public profession of Christianity, and here stood one of the two first -places of Christian worship in the Island. The simple chapel erected in -1831 was afterwards turned into a gaol during the persecution, and here -many Christians suffered imprisonment. Adjoining it is the grave-yard, -where rest the remains of several British missionaries who have given -their lives to the service of Christ in Madagascar. This Church, which -has long been self-supporting, has associated with it twenty-seven -country Churches, and for some years has been under the pastoral care -of the Rev. William Evans, one of the noble succession of Welshmen who -have done so much to advance the coming of the Kingdom in the Island. - -Mr. Evans has also charge of the Martyr Memorial Church of -Ampamarinana--“the place of Hurling”--which is situated on the -south-west of the ridge on which the city is built. To the west of -the Church is the top of a rocky precipice, where in earlier years -sorcerers were executed by being hurled down the cliff to the plain, -400 feet below. During the persecution, as Christians were supposed to -possess some powerful charms enabling them to defy their persecutors, -fourteen of the noble army of martyrs were in 1849 thus put to death. -The present Native pastor of the Church is Andriamifidy, who was -at one time Foreign Secretary in the old Malagasy Government, and -from this Church several of the present leading Native Pastors have -come. Associated with it in the district to the west of the city are -twenty-seven country Churches. - -The third Martyr Memorial Church is that of Ambohipotsy, situated in -a commanding position at the extreme south of the city ridge with -a magnificent view on all sides. This beautiful stone building was -erected to commemorate the first Christian martyrdom--that of the brave -Christian woman Rasalama, who was speared to death near the spot in -1837, in a place where other Christians subsequently met their doom -in like fashion. The work of this Church and district, comprising -some forty-six country outstations to the south of the city, is now -superintended by Mrs. Thorne, who is bravely and successfully carrying -on the work of her late husband. - -The fourth Memorial Church is that of Faravohitra, erected on the -northern ridge of the capital by the contributions of the children of -Great Britain to commemorate the burning alive of four martyrs in 1849. -The work at Faravohitra and in its extensive district to the north, -comprising fifty country Churches, is under the charge of the Rev. -Robert Griffith, another of the Welsh missionaries who have devoted -themselves to the service of Christ in Madagascar. - -Not far from Ambatonakanga, at the western foot of the ridge, is -the spacious Church of Amparibe, built of brick and stone. This is -the third Church on the same site. The work there and amongst the -twenty-four country Churches lying to the north-west of the capital, -has during the last two years been under the care of the Rev. F. W. -Dennis. - -The sixth Mother Church is that of Analakely, a short distance to the -north of Ambatonakanga, and adjoining the great market place. This -Church also is the third building erected on the present site. It was -opened in 1895, a few months before the French occupation, the ex-Queen -Ranavalona III. and her Court being present on the occasion. For thirty -years the veteran Missionary, Dr. Sibree, has been the missionary -in charge, and has superintended the work there and at the fourteen -country churches connected with it. - -The remaining Mother Church is that of Isotry, another large building -in the populous western district of the capital. It is only recently -that the Church at Isotry has been reckoned as one of the Mother -Churches of the capital. Mr. Stowell Ashwell has had charge of the work -there for some years. - -The Institutional work of the Imerina Mission is centred in Tananarive. -Of these Institutions the most important is the United Theological -College, where pastors and evangelists for the work of the Mission -receive their training. For upwards of forty years the L. M. S. -Theological College in Tananarive has rendered great service by -preparing hundreds of young men for their work as evangelists and -pastors. After the French conquest the conspicuous College building -on the northern part of the ridge was appropriated by the French -Government and, as already mentioned, converted into Law Courts. The -work of the College was removed to a smaller building a little further -to the north, adjoining the Faravohitra Church. In 1910 a union in -Theological training was entered into with the F. F. M. A., and the -College was removed to a large house at Ambohipotsy and became a -residential Institution. A notable feature of the present work is the -training of the students’ wives. - -A number of cottages, named after Missionary Tutors of past days, have -been erected on land adjoining the College, and this department has -been superintended with great energy and devotion by Mrs. Sharman, the -wife of the present Principal, the Rev. James Sharman. The College -course extends over four years. Upon the staff are missionaries of -both Societies and four competent Native teachers, Pastors Rabary, -Rabetageka, Rakotovao, and Ravelo. The College at present contains -thirty-two students, and is doing a great work in making more adequate -provision for a well-trained and consecrated native ministry. In a -very true sense the College is the key to the missionary situation in -Imerina. If the Native Church is to maintain and extend its position, -it is necessary that a constant succession of well-educated and devoted -Christian men should go forth from the College to act as pastors of the -Churches and to be the leaders of the people in all their Christian -activities. - -Reference has already been made to the two conspicuous buildings in -the centre of the city, adjoining the Ambatonakanga Memorial Church, -in which are carried on the Boys’ High School and a Girls’ School. -After the French occupation, Mr. Sharman started the Boys’ School in -1897. It grew rapidly, and the present building was erected and opened -in 1901 by Governor-General Galieni, when there were 500 pupils on -the books. This number increased to 720, but was subsequently reduced -to 530 owing to Government regulations. It is at present conducted by -our Missionary, M. Henri Noyer, with the help of a staff of Malagasy -Assistant Masters. The average attendance at the School is 91 per cent. -of the number upon the books. In addition to the ordinary curriculum of -a school of this character, which directs great attention to the French -language, there are industrial departments for carpentry, woodwork, and -metal work in which a high standard of efficiency is reached. - -Adjoining the Boys’ High School is the Girls’ School, founded by Dr. -T. T. Matthews, where for many years some of the brightest girls from -the Churches of Imerina have received a good education. The Missionary -in charge of it is Miss Ysabel Du Commun, who, however, at the time -of our visit, was absent on furlough, Miss Craven taking her place as -Superintendent. The Government regulations only allow 230 girls in -the School, although there is ample accommodation for a much larger -number, and there are many girls now waiting admission when there are -vacancies. There are seven classes, with three men and four women -teachers and two sewing mistresses. In addition to the ordinary -curriculum for such a School, training is given in hygiene, cookery, -dressmaking and fancy work. - -In another part of the town, at Andohalo, stands the Girls’ Central -School, where for upwards of forty years a fine educational work has -been carried on. There are now 400 girls on the books, and many more -are waiting for admission. The average attendance is 380. Amongst the -special subjects taught in the School are straw-plaiting, hatmaking, -lacemaking, first-aid and ambulance work. The staff consists of Miss -Elsie Sibree, the devoted head-mistress, two masters and eight women -teachers. The French Government regulations do not at present admit -of the employment of women teachers, except those who were appointed -before the present rules came into force. The present buildings, -which were erected twenty years ago, comprise a large and lofty -central hall, with a spacious gallery and six class-rooms. The sight -of the crowded school at morning prayers is a most impressive one. -The girls, bare-footed, dressed in their white lambas, with “shining -morning face,” and with that happy, placid expression, which is so -characteristic of the Christian girls and women of Madagascar, file -into the central hall and take their places with order and reverence -and join with heartiness and devotion in the singing and in the -prayers. It is a very rare thing for more than one or two to be late. -The tone of the school is of the highest, and the head-mistress always -strives, by prayer-meetings for the staff and in many other ways, to -impress the teachers with the missionary character of their work. - - [Illustration: MALAGASY GIRLS AT MISS CRAVEN’S GIRLS’ HOME.] - -Another branch of the work amongst girls is the Girls’ Home, -successfully carried on by Miss Craven for twenty years. Here is a -home provided for the daughters of evangelists and pastors and other -Christian workers who come to Tananarive for their education. The -girls attend the Central School and live in Miss Craven’s house, where -they are taught domestic duties, lacemaking, embroidery, and other -needlework at very small expense to the Society. Thirty girls are in -residence, and there are always more waiting for admission. Miss Craven -describes the work being carried on as follows: - - “Now for a picture of the Home itself. There are one sitting and two - bed rooms, all large and airy; the former has tables and benches, but, - except for meals and preparation, the matted floor is just as much - used. Books and small possessions are kept in covered baskets, one to - each girl, and their clothes are in a cupboard or tin boxes. The girls - sleep on mattresses laid on the floor, besides which there is no other - furniture in the dormitories. They bring their own clothes, plates, - spoons, mattresses and coverings, but as there is more ventilation - than in their rooms at home, I keep a supply of blankets to lend to - them when the nights are cold; an outside building provides kitchen, - rice-house, bath-house, etc. - - “The days’ occupations vary little; the girls are up at daylight, - say 5.30 in the summer and 6.0 in winter, and, after a wash in the - bath-house, come back to their household duties, sweeping and dusting - their own rooms and some of ours, and preparing their breakfast of - rice and milk, which is ready before seven o’clock. After that all - the household assembles for morning prayers, and then there is the - bustle of final preparation for school before they form in line and - march off, two by two, looking a clean, tidy, and intelligent family, - of which we may well feel proud. They all go to the Girls’ Central - School, under the care of Miss Sibree, school hours being from 8 a.m. - to 12.45 p.m. One hour every afternoon is given to school preparation, - the remainder of the time being filled up with different kinds of - needlework, while the little ones divide their time between work and - play. One afternoon most of them are away at the C. E. weekly meeting - at Analakely. The evening meal is ready at 6.30, we have prayers at - 7 o’clock, and then they say ‘good-night,’ and troop off to bed, a - few of the elder ones staying a little longer to do more lessons, or - finish some piece of needlework. Saturday brings a change of work, - for most of the girls go to do their weekly washing, not getting home - until about 3 p.m. After dinner they are busy until bedtime ironing - their clothes and getting ready for Sunday. - - “At different times they have attended Faravohitra, Ampamarinana, - Ambohipotsy, and Analakely Churches, and the Sunday Schools connected - with them. Sunday evening is spent with me singing hymns, discussing - Sunday School lessons and sermons, and other matters of interest. - It is a happy time, and one to which we all look forward. The Sunday - School has a great attraction for them, especially the yearly - examination, for which they prepare several weeks beforehand, and from - which they carry off some of the best prizes. - - “Quarrels and troubles have not been frequent, and during the last two - or three years have been increasingly rare. Severe discipline has been - needed in very few cases, one being that of a girl who was sent away - for continuing a clandestine correspondence; she has been carefully - watched at home, and is turning out well. About three years ago we - were very grieved when one, who had been with us for many years, took - the law into her own hands and ran away to be married. We do not, - however, give up hope that she will become a Christian woman and train - her children well. The health of the girls has always been a great - responsibility, and malarial fever has been very much more frequent - during the latter half of the decade. We have not lost any by death, - except one who died at home during holidays. We generally find that - the girls improve in health while under our care, and we do not often - need to call for the help of a doctor. Occasionally we have to regret - that girls are removed by their parents while still young, but as a - rule they remain with us until about to be married, or get married - soon after leaving. - - “As to the spiritual results, we may speak with some confidence. - Three have joined the Church, and one has been baptised on profession - of faith while still in the Home, and others have become Church - members soon after marriage. The Spirit of Christ is clearly working - in the hearts and lives of many who are still with us. Of one dear - girl, who died very happily after the birth of her first child, her - husband said to me: ‘I rejoice over the months we have lived together; - she has done me good.’” - -Another department of Institutional work is the L. M. S. Printing Press -in Tananarive, which stands for much more than its name implies. It -is true that a prosperous business in printing and book-binding is -carried on, seventy men being constantly employed. But the Printing -Press is a kind of “Universal Provider,” and anything, from a harmonium -to a needle, can be purchased there. Under the able superintendence -of Mr. Ashwell, a considerable annual profit is made. The magnitude -of its operations is surprising. In the ten years ending in 1910, -1,833,243 books and pamphlets were issued from the office, including -over 40,000 Bibles, 60,000 New Testaments (printed in England), nearly -350,000 lesson books, over 131,000 hymn books, and a large number of -commentaries and other religious works. - -No sketch of the Institutional work in Tananarive would be complete -without a reference to the Medical Mission, which for many years has -been carried on jointly by the F. F. M. A. and the L. M. S., the doctor -being a missionary of the former Society. For the last sixteen years -Dr. Moss has been the medical missionary in charge, and in his own -person illustrates the close union between the two Societies in this -work. He has been a missionary of the F. F. M. A., and is the son of -an L. M. S. missionary, and his wife, a trained nurse, is the daughter -of an L. M. S. missionary, the saintly Joseph Pearse. No department of -missionary work in the capital suffered more from the advent of the -French than the Medical Mission. A fine commodious hospital, opened -in 1891 by the ex-Queen, was appropriated by the French Government -in 1896, and since then the hospital work has been on a much smaller -scale, and in fact there was no hospital at all between 1897 and 1903, -although a large out-patient work was carried on. In the latter year -a small Cottage Hospital was erected, round which the work has since -centred under the devoted superintendence of Dr. and Mrs. Moss. - -In barest outline some account has been given of the Institutional work -of the Imerina Mission, which is centred in Tananarive. In this work -the European missionary and the Native agent, working together side -by side and in closest co-operation, are contributing to the building -up of a strong Native Church, which in the future is to be God’s -instrument in spreading the light into the dark places of the Island. -This Church is as “a city set on a hill that cannot be hid.” - - - - - CHAPTER VII - - =Imerina Country Districts--“Fields White Unto Harvest”= - - Say not the struggle naught availeth, - The labour and the wounds are vain, - The enemy faints not, nor faileth, - And as things have been they remain. - * * * * * - - For while the tired waves, vainly breaking, - Seem here no painful inch to gain; - Far back, through creeks, and inlets making, - Comes, silent, flooding in the main. - - CLOUGH. - - -It was not until 1870 that the L. M. S. established its first country -station in Madagascar. In that year Dr. Sibree founded a residential -station at Ambohimanga, the ancient capital of the Hovas, and one of -the three towns in Madagascar which, until the French occupation, no -European was permitted to enter. Ambohimanga lies about eleven miles -north of Tananarive, whence its wooded heights can be clearly seen. - -At the top of the hill is the old royal palace, built for King -Andrianampoinimerina, who reigned from 1788 to 1810, and was the first -king who had any claim to be regarded as monarch of the whole Island. -He was the father of Radama I., who moved the capital to Tananarive. -After its removal the old royal palace was visited by the sovereign at -least once a year. The building is at all sorts of levels, and there -are great trees growing in most unexpected places. When the walls which -supported the wooden palace were last plastered the white of eggs was -used to make the plaster, so as to give it a glazed appearance. It is -said that millions of eggs were used in the process. At the very top of -the hill are some rocks, from which there is a most magnificent view -nearly all round the horizon. On these rocks superstitious practices -are still observed, indications of which were very apparent to us at -the time of our visit. To the north is a precipice, and at its foot -rice fields stretch away into the distance to the hills and mountains -which bound the horizon. The present Native Governor of the town is -an old L. M. S. boy from Betsileo, trained by Mr. Rowlands. He showed -to us with great pride a silver watch which his former missionary had -given to him. - -Ambohimanga is reached by pousse-pousse (rickshaw), the journey -occupying two hours. Its first three missionaries were Dr. Sibree, -Mr. Wills, and Mr. Peill, all of whom have had the honour of giving -children to the Mission field in Madagascar and in other parts of -the world. The Ambohimanga Mission house must be the centre of happy -memories for missionaries now at work in China, India, and Samoa. -The contribution which the Madagascar missionaries have made to the -Society’s staff, especially in China, is remarkable. Dr. Sibree has -given a daughter to the Medical Mission at Hong Kong, and a son to the -South Sea Mission, in addition to two daughters to the Madagascar -Mission. Mr. Wills was the father of a medical missionary carrying -on work in Central China, and another son is at work in India. Mr. -Peill has given four sons to the North China Mission, three of them -being doctors. A son of Mr. Peake’s is also a medical missionary in -North China. Mr. Rowlands has two sons and a daughter missionaries in -China. A daughter of Mr. Pearse is the wife of a medical missionary in -North China; and a second daughter is the wife of a medical missionary -in Madagascar. A son of Mr. Huckett was for a short time a medical -missionary in India. Three children of Mr. George Cousins have become -missionaries in China. And so the Apostolic succession is continued. - -Since Mr. Peill left Ambohimanga the Mission there has been in charge -of two Welshmen, Mr. Griffith, and the present missionary, Mr. Owen -Jones, thus carrying on the tradition that Madagascar is pre-eminently -the Mission Field of the Welsh Churches. - -On the occasion of the visit of the Deputation a great gathering was -held in the largest of the three L. M. S. Churches at Ambohimanga, all -outside the city walls, on account of the old law, above referred to, -excluding Europeans from the town itself. Thirty-five Churches were -represented in the crowded congregation from the Ambohimanga district -which gathered together to meet us. There were all the indications of -a strong and growing Christian work, which was further evidenced by -the efficient school work, and the work amongst women which is being -carried on, and by the long and earnest discussion we had with the -native pastors and preachers. - -Twelve miles east of the capital is the country station of Isoavina, -where for nearly forty years the Rev. P. G. Peake carried on his -vigorous and varied missionary labours. The Mission house is -beautifully situated in the hills amidst fine trees planted by Mr. -Peake in a beautiful garden, intersected by two perennial streams -of water. There are school buildings, workshops, and a row of -cottages bearing testimony to the work of this earnest missionary. He -established an industrial school at the station and taught carpentry, -iron-work, tinsmith’s work, and other industrial pursuits. The -industrial department was, however, suppressed by the French officials -in 1896, but was afterwards resumed on a smaller scale in 1907. But -perhaps the missionary activity by which Mr. Peake will be best -remembered is the founding of the leper settlement at Imanankavaly, an -hour’s walk away from Isoavina, which has since grown to such large -proportions under the French Government. Mr. Peake has himself told the -story of the genesis of this great work in the “Ten Years’ Review.” - -In 1900 the French authorities purchased the Leper Settlement, and -have since carried on and developed the work there to an amazing -extent. There are now 1,500 lepers in residence. The Settlement is -a large village, consisting for the most part of rows of detached -huts in which the lepers live, and is a model of cleanliness and -order. I visited the Institution and was greatly impressed with what -I saw. Nearly all the inmates bear the awful marks of leprosy upon -them. Many have bandages round their feet, legs and arms. Many have -lost feet and hands and are horribly mutilated or deformed. Many have -terribly distorted faces. Some hid themselves away as they saw visitors -approaching. Others lay in the sunshine huddled up in dark blankets. -Many, however, were able to work, and were engaged in building new huts -or in agricultural pursuits. There were men and women, boys and girls, -a most pathetic multitude. Yet smiling faces were quite common as the -lepers saluted us as we passed along between the rows of cottages. It -was Saturday, the weekly cleaning day, and all the meagre furniture, -pots and pans, were turned out of doors. The staple article of food is -rice, of which over five tons a week are consumed. Twice a week meat is -supplied, and the Government also provide soap, candles and salt. The -whole Institution is a wonderful example of method and organization. -But the most remarkable fact in connection with the work is that it is -entirely directed by a woman of sixty-five years of age, Mlle. Sapino. -This lady came to Madagascar some eighteen years ago as a missionary -of the Paris Missionary Society. On severing her connection with that -Society she took up this work amongst the lepers. She controls the -whole of the Institution down to the minutest details. She superintends -the buildings. She buys all the stores, and I saw her weighing out -the rice for distribution to the Lepers. She examines every case -as it comes in, and puts all the particulars down on a chart. She -personally dresses the wounds in the worst cases, and was engaged in -doing this Christ-like work when we arrived. For all her services she -receives the munificent stipend of £80 per annum and a house. Out of -this at the present time she is keeping some forty untainted children -of lepers born in the Institution. The Government will not make her -any grant because these children are not lepers. Some months ago she -sold her drawing-room furniture to get money to keep the children. She -is a remarkable-looking woman--tall, with prominent features and iron -grey hair. She reminded me more than any other woman I ever saw of the -pictures of George Eliot. She told me that the Government respected -her, but did not love her. They know she is indispensable. A week or -two previous to my visit they sent her an unsatisfactory Frenchman -to be an assistant. She objected and resigned. In a few hours a high -official’s wife came out to tell her that the Government would do -anything she asked with regard to the Frenchman. She demanded his -immediate removal, and in twenty-four hours he was gone. She has no -European assistant, but seven untainted Malagasy, including a doctor. -All the rest of the work is done by lepers--except that the Government -have sent recently five Malagasy soldiers as a guard. I was told that -Mademoiselle always carries a loaded revolver about with her for fear -of trouble. At the time of my visit she had no servant in her house, -and did all her own cooking and housework. She is one of the most -remarkable women I have ever met, and carries on a wonderful piece of -work. She is a strong Protestant. There is a school and a Protestant -and Catholic Church in the Institution. The cost is very small--less -than 35s. per inmate per annum, which seems almost incredible. - -But to return to Isoavina. During our visit a great united meeting of -the Isan-Efa-Bolana (four-monthly meeting) for the whole district was -held in the Church. The schools were inspected and interviews held -with the leading Christian workers. At this place, as at nearly every -other place in Madagascar which we visited, presentations were made -to us by the Native Christians in order to express their gratitude -to the Society for sending us to visit them and their pleasure at -seeing us. At various places we were the recipients of numberless -turkeys, fowls and eggs. Offerings of other kinds of food were made, -and we received more permanent reminders of our visit in the shape of -lambas, walking sticks, lace, rafia work, embroideries, scarf pins, -serviette rings, photographs, hats, addresses, etc. In their joy at -seeing representatives of the Society in their midst it seemed that our -friends could not do enough to express their appreciation and gratitude. - -Some half-hour’s walk from Isoavina, the “Rest-House,” or Sanatorium -belonging to the Mission is situated at Ambatovory in the midst of -lovely country commanding fine views. It is here that many of the -Imerina missionaries spend their hard-earned holidays. - -During my stay at Isoavina I paid a surprise Sunday morning visit to -a small outstation called Fararina. Every precaution was taken to -conceal the fact that a visit was going to be made, so that the visitor -might have an opportunity of seeing a country outstation under normal -conditions. The Church was a small and primitive wattle-and-daub -building, with a brick pulpit, covered with the commonest and most -gaudy wallpaper. The earth floor was covered with matting. I was -delighted to find that the chapel was practically full. Afterwards -a Communion Service was held. The “bread” was nearly black. It was -made of manioc root and coarse black sugar almost like treacle. The -“wine” was pine-apple juice. The cups and plates were tin painted red. -Although the visit was a complete surprise, the people would not let me -go without making the customary gifts. As I descended the steep hill -after the service some of the Church members overtook me bringing a -fowl, and as I reached the foot others came running after me with eggs. - -Ten miles north-west of Tananarive is Ambohidratrimo, where the late -Mr. Baron lived for two years in the seventies. In 1901 Ambohidratrimo -was re-opened as a residential station under the care of the Rev. F. -W. Dennis, and it is now in charge of the Rev. H. A. Ridgwell. In past -days it was the capital of one of the four small kingdoms into which -the present province of Imerina was divided, and it still retains -marks of its former importance. At the top of a lofty hill behind the -Mission house the royal village once stood, where a century ago the -Malagasy king ruled over his petty kingdom. There are still several -royal tombs to be seen. Towards three-quarters of the horizon a great -plain stretches out into the distance. In the middle of it towards -the south-east amidst the rice-fields is Tananarive. All around are -mountains. The country looked like a gigantic relief map, and the view -must be similar to that to be seen from an aeroplane. - -Ambohidratrimo is reached by a two hours’ ride in a pousse-pousse -through rice fields and pine-apple gardens. In passing along the road -I could see the women very busy in the rice fields, transplanting the -young rice and working in water half up their legs. Pine-apples are -very plentiful in the district, and three large ones can be bought for -a penny. During our visit we attended two great meetings, one in the -Mission Church consisting only of men, representing some sixty-eight -Churches in the district, while the other, for women only, was held at -an outstation in a large village Church with very few seats. The Church -was crowded, most of the women being seated on the floor looking very -clean, happy and bright in their white lambas. Many of them had walked -for several hours to attend the meeting. The wife of the evangelist -made an admirable president, and several women took part in the meeting. - -Fourteen miles north-west of Ambohidratrimo is Vangaina, which became -the residence of a missionary in 1903. It is the centre of fifty -outstations, which are superintended by the Vangaina missionary, -the Rev. Thomas Tester. The beautifully situated Mission house has -been built on the hillside some distance off the main motor-car road -from Tananarive to the Port of Majunga on the north-west coast. At -the station there is a Church and a school. A united meeting for the -Churches of the district was held at the outstation, Ampanotokana, at -which forty-four Churches were represented, crowding the building to -its utmost capacity. - -Our journeys to these country stations afforded many opportunities of -seeing various sides of native life. On the way to Vangaina we visited -the large native market at Mahitsy on market day. We went up and down -between the stalls in the market place. The vendors must have numbered -many hundreds, and the people attending the market some thousands from -all over the countryside. Amongst the articles for sale were straw hats -and mats, spades and hatchets, great heaps of fine pineapples, sugar -cane, pigs, cattle, rice, meat, great piles of a small kind of dried -fish, salt, tinware, calico, black soap (like the soap our missionary, -Mr. Cameron, taught the natives to make eighty years ago), buttons, -biscuits, ducks, vegetables--all in the greatest profusion. Perhaps the -most interesting feature was the space set apart for the blacksmiths, -who were repairing spades, tinware, cart-wheels, etc., with the help -of primitive forges. The blast was created by two upright cylinders -of wood with pipes from the bottom of them to convey the wind to the -charcoal fire. The air was driven into these pipes by means of plates -of wood, which were forced up and down the cylinders by poles attached -to the upper surface and worked by men’s hands. They formed very -effective bellows. - -Vangaina itself is a small village with two moats, each about twenty -feet deep, in which banana trees were growing. An interesting feature -in the village is a great tree in which I saw three enormous nests -of the crested-umber built in the forks of the tree and made of hay, -straw, grass, and twigs, each one being about six feet long by six -feet wide. The bird is about the size of the domestic fowl with longer -wings, and is called the Taketra. It is a bird of ill-omen, and in the -old days when the ex-Queen used to come out to Ambohimanga she would -turn back again to Tananarive if one of these birds crossed her path. -The old Malagasy believe that these birds bring leprosy. - -The most distant country station in Imerina from Tananarive is that of -Anjozorobe, between sixty and seventy miles north-east of the Capital. -On the way one passes through the town of Ambohitrolomahitsy, for some -years the residential station for the district, at which the late -Rev. Percy Milledge, and after him the Rev. W. Kendal Gale, carried -on work. We attended three large meetings at this place. The journey -thither to Anjozorobe led us over a range of mountains, one of which -bears a Malagasy name meaning “The mountain which cannot be climbed.” -Anjozorobe, which is beautifully situated, became a residential station -in 1910, when Mr. Gale moved there from Ambohitrolomahitsy. He and -his family live in a newly-erected Mission house bearing a Malagasy -name, which being interpreted means “The house of sweet breezes,” now -quite familiar to readers of the Society’s magazines. His missionary -colleague, Mrs. Milledge, formerly Miss May Sibree, lives some -distance away in the centre of the native village in a Malagasy house. -Anjozorobe is the centre of a very extensive district, in which there -are forty large outstations, and includes the northern part of the -Bezanozano country, the southern portion of which is connected with the -Isoavina Station. It was not my privilege to visit the Bezanozano, but -one of my colleagues, Mr. Talbot Wilson, spent nine days in a tour in -this country. - -During our visit to Anjozorobe a large united meeting for the whole -district was held at the Church. Visits were also paid to some of the -nearer outstations. The schools were inspected, and a gathering held -for the native workers. Much of Mr. Gale’s time is spent away from -home, his itinerating work through a widespread district necessitating -his absence for many days at a time. Mrs. Milledge, too, spends much -of her life travelling between outstations, living in native houses, -and holding classes for women and girls in both the Anjozorobe and -Ambohitrolomahitsy districts. - -The journey back to the capital took us through Ankazandandy and -Ambohibao, where crowded and enthusiastic meetings were held. - -By the work of our missionaries at these country stations, and of -hundreds of native pastors and preachers, the light is being spread -through the central province of Imerina. Before the French occupation -the L. M. S. work was much more extensive than it is at present. It -became necessary to hand over some of the work to the Paris Missionary -Society, whose missionaries, with those of the F. F. M. A. and the -S. P. G. and their native workers, have now for many years past been -engaged in passing on the light from place to place. The Church is -steadily growing and extending into the dark places beyond. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - - =Betsileo--“The Sombre Fringes of the Night”= - - The glad Dawn sets his fires upon the hills, - Then floods the valley with his golden light, - And, triumphing o’er all the hosts of night, - The waiting world with new-born rapture fills. - - L. C. MOULTON. - - -The scene now changes to the province of Betsileo, in the south of the -Island, where the work is carried on amongst a backward people, whose -territory abuts upon the districts occupied by tribes more benighted -still--the Sakalava, the Bara, and the Tanala. - -Until quite recently the work in Betsileo was separated from the work -in Imerina by a journey in a filanjana (palanquin) occupying from -eight to ten days. Now the 264 miles which separate Tananarive from -Fianarantsoa are covered in two days in comfortable automobiles, along -a magnificent road which has been constructed by the French. For almost -the whole of the distance the country is very hilly, the road rising to -4,500 feet above the sea level, and being carried over mountains in a -continuous series of curves with easy gradients. - -We were travelling in the middle of the Malagasy winter. The mornings -were cold and misty, but before long the sun broke out and we enjoyed -a changing panorama of hill and mountain, waterfall and river, and -far-spreading distant views. Peaks sixty miles away appeared to be -quite near. Time after time the road traversed amphitheatres in the -mountains, and I was often reminded of stretches of country in the -province of Hunan in Central China. - -Fianarantsoa is the capital of the Betsileo province, the inhabitants -of which are a curly-haired, dark-skinned people of a somewhat low -type, except in the large towns where most of the population is Hova. -Work is also carried on at outstations amongst the Bara and Tanala -tribes in the south. The L. M. S. first sent resident missionaries to -settle in Betsileo in 1870, and the Paris Missionary Society and the -Norwegian Society are also at work there. - -Fianarantsoa is picturesquely situated in a mountainous region. It -stands considerably higher than the top of Snowdon, and commands a -wonderful view on all sides--of mountains and moorland, forest and -river in infinite variety. During our visit, in the early mornings -great seas of mist lay in the valleys, but later in the day the whole -landscape was flooded with brilliant sunshine. - -The work in the Capital itself and at seventy-four outstations is -in charge of Mr. Huckett and Mr. Johnson, who have borne the burden -and heat of the day for upwards of thirty years, while Miss Hare has -been in charge of the Girls’ School for the last seventeen years. The -Mission Compound is extensive and contains the Girls’ School, three -Mission houses, the Theological College, which was once a hospital, -and cottage accommodation for the students at work in the College and -the boys from the L. M. S. country stations attending the Boys’ School -of the Paris Missionary Society. In Fianarantsoa there were all the -evidences of extensive missionary activities and of a successful work. -The numerous meetings that were held during our visit were crowded. -During our stay the annual gatherings of the Betsileo Isan-Kerin-Taona -(yearly meeting) were held. - -They were the first gatherings of the kind at which I had been present -in Madagascar. As I attended meeting after meeting the impression made -upon me as a visitor was that of “fields white unto harvest.” To my -unaccustomed eyes the white lambas, which seemed to fill the Churches, -suggested the white fields referred to in the Gospels. And then came -the thought which gave rise to glad thanksgiving, that in Madagascar -the harvest indeed had been plenteous, though the labourers had been -few. Then came a vision of the great harvest-home when from the north -and south, the east and west of this island men and women, boys and -girls would all be gathered into the Kingdom, and those who sowed and -those who reaped would rejoice together. - -Three meetings stand out in my memory. On the Wednesday there was -a representative gathering of the delegates from the L. M. S. and -P. M. S. Churches in Antranobiriky Church. M. Couve, of the Paris -Society, addressed some burning words to the delegates, which went to -their hearts. I spoke of the United Malagasy Church of the future, -and rejoiced to find so hearty a response to the idea of union. Next -day at the Assembly M. Couve spoke with great earnestness on the -duty of self-support, and Mr. Houghton gave an eloquent address on -self-government. - -The third meeting was a memorable one. It was a united Communion -Service held on Thursday afternoon in the Church of the French -Protestant Mission. The spacious church was crowded to its utmost -limits. The aisles and stairs were thronged with devout worshippers. -A native pastor conducted the service. Missionaries and evangelists, -pastors and preachers joined with some 800 Christians and the -Deputations from the two societies round the table of our Lord. Men -and women, brown and white, were all as one in that sacred service of -commemoration and consecration. The solemnity of the gathering was -emphasised by the thunderstorm which broke over the town while the -service was proceeding. The church became dark. The wind howled. The -lightning flashed. The thunder rolled. The rain fell. And then came the -brilliant sunshine--a prophetic vision of the history of the Church -of Christ in Madagascar. Persecution, trouble, and anxiety have beset -that Church in the past. Even now there are clouds upon the horizon. -But the day is surely coming when the glorious shining of the Sun of -Righteousness will flood this great island with light and love, and all -who live in it “shall shine as the brightness of the firmament, and ... -as the stars for ever and ever.” - -Mr. Huckett has long carried on a fine piece of work in the -Theological Seminary. Here pastors and evangelists receive a three -years’ course of training, and there is a two years’ course for -catechists and itinerating preachers. Mr. Huckett also superintends -the boys and youths from the country mission stations, who come up to -Fianarantsoa to complete their education, living in the cottages above -referred to, which are supported by the Glasgow Foundry Boys’ Religious -Association. Another branch of Mr. Huckett’s manifold labours is the -secretaryship of the local agency of the British and Foreign Bible -Society. From the Bible and Book Room in the Compound the Scriptures -are distributed to the whole of the South of Madagascar, and five -colporteurs are at work. - -At the Girls’ High School, conducted by Miss Hare, there are one -hundred girls on the books, of whom on the occasion of our visit -ninety-six were present. There is ample accommodation for more -scholars, but the Government regulations prevent it being utilised. -Some of the girls at the school come from the country stations and -live in the Mission house with Miss Hare. It would be a very great -help to the work if a Boarding Home for Girls could be established -in Fianarantsoa. In addition to her duties in the School, Miss Hare -also has the oversight of the wives of the students at the Theological -Seminary. The Paris Mission carries on the Boys’ High School and a -Normal School, to which the L. M. S. students go. - -About an hour’s journey from Fianarantsoa another fine example of -missionary activity is to be seen at the Leper Home, at a place -pathetically called “The Village of Hope.” This work was started by -Mrs. Huckett twenty years ago. My visit was a sad experience, and will -be an abiding memory. No leper who enters this home, in which there are -forty-three inmates, ever comes out again. The sufferers die, and are -buried in the grounds. My thoughts naturally carried me back to Dr. -Fowler’s Leper Home in Central China at Siao Kan. “The Village of Hope” -might well be called the “Village of Despair,” for maimed and missing -hands and feet told their tale only too plainly, and pitiable sores on -the legs and face were common. But without exception all the patients -seemed bright and happy, and one could not doubt the joy that had come -into the lives of the poor afflicted creatures, thirty-three of whom -were Church members, while others were enquirers. We visited the rooms -in which they live, and afterwards attended a pathetic and yet happy -meeting in the Chapel at which we all spoke. The lepers were genuinely -glad to see us and gave us a hearty welcome. After we left we could see -the whole community, standing in their white lambas just outside the -gate on the top of the hill, waving farewells to us for fully half an -hour. - -Thirty-two miles south of Fianarantsoa is the growing Government -town of Ambalavao, which is reached by pousse-pousse along another -well-engineered road through the mountains. As we approached the town -we were met by streams of natives, many gaily decorated, returning -from the annual three days’ fair. For many years Ambalavao was worked -from Ambohimandroso, but it has been a residential station since 1903 -under the care of the Rev. D. M. Rees, whose untiring efforts are -ably seconded by those of his wife, who has the great advantage of an -excellent knowledge of French. The Mission house is an old Malagasy -residence which has been enlarged. The Station Church is one of the -most handsome and best built churches in Madagascar. On the occasion -of our visit it was crowded to its utmost capacity by a gathering -representing the forty-four outstations in the district. - -Six miles south of Ambalavao is situated Ambohimandroso, the most -southerly station of the L. M. S., where the Rev. Thomas and Mrs. -Rowlands (who, like Mr. and Mrs. Rees, keep up the connection between -Wales and Madagascar) have faithfully carried on work for the last -thirty-four years. At the bottom of the valley between the two stations -is a river which is crossed by a ferry, where I was met by a crowd -of school children who escorted me up the steep hill to the Mission -house, the boys assisting in propelling the pousse-pousse. Here again a -crowded and enthusiastic united meeting was held, with representatives -from most of the fifty-one out-stations connected with this Mission. -Schools were inspected, visits paid to some of the Native workers, -and other gatherings held. Mr. and Mrs. Rowlands find house-room for -a dozen girls from country districts who are attending school. Each -evening these girls file into the drawing-room for singing and prayer. -On the occasion of my visit they sang “Nearer my God to Thee” in -English. Then followed their salutation, “Good-night, Mr. Hawkins,” -with a curtsey. I replied, “Good-night, girls; God bless you.” Then -came their answer, “Thank you, Mr. Hawkins.” The same formula is gone -through with “Madame” and “Sir.” - -The morning I left, the girls were up early to see me off, and stood in -a row alongside the filanjana. In a frivolous moment as I was leaving -I pretended to weep to express my sorrow at parting from them, and -off I went. Mrs. Rowlands told me a week or two afterwards that at -my departure all the girls had burst into tears and cried bitterly, -saying, “What a tender-hearted gentleman to cry when he leaves us. He -must be thinking of his own daughter in England who has dark hair and -dark eyes like us!” - -From Ambohimandroso I proceeded to the Society’s newest station -in Betsileo at Alakamisy Itenina, where since 1905 the Rev. D. D. -Green, another Welshman, has resided and superintended the work of -the thirty-seven outstations, of which this place is the centre. The -journey occupied all day, and the road lay amongst the mountains, -the views of the hills and clouds being magnificent. Several crowded -meetings were held at the station and at outstations. At one place the -crowd that had gathered together was three times as large as the Church -could contain, and the meeting was held in the open-air, in defiance, I -am afraid, of the French law. I stood under the shadow of the Church. -In the immediate foreground was the great congregation, some on the -seats which had been taken out of the Church, and some on the ground--a -very picturesque crowd in white and gaily-coloured lambas. Beyond the -worshippers stretched a glorious vista of mountain and valley, rolling -away into “the purple distance fair,” with the brilliant sunshine -bathing all in a flood of golden light. - -The only residential station in Madagascar which I was unable to visit -was that at Ambohimahasoa, a town of growing importance, where the Rev. -Charles Collins has laboured for the last eleven years, superintending -from that centre thirty-eight outstations. Both my colleagues, however, -were able to visit it, and attended a large number of meetings there. - -The Society’s work in Betsileo is well organised, and has been carried -on for the last forty-three years with great and growing success. From -the centre at Fianarantsoa, over a wide-spreading district comprising -244 outstations, the Gospel has been faithfully preached, schools -have been conducted, Christian Endeavour Societies, Dorcas meetings, -and many other missionary activities have been carried on, and this -manifold work has been accomplished by means of a small European staff -which has never exceeded ten missionaries. Their efforts have been -seconded by a native staff of about fifty ordained pastors and 500 -preachers. The Church is a growing one, but much yet remains to be done -to complete the evangelization of the large territory in which the -Society is at work. Beyond to the south, as already mentioned, are the -unevangelized tribes of the Bara and Tanala districts, amongst whom up -to the present very little work has been done. But the future is rich -with promise, and if the existing work can be maintained and somewhat -extended, the Society will have a rich reward in building up a Native -Church so strong and so missionary, that before many years have passed -it will be able to carry the light into the dark places around. - - - - - CHAPTER IX - - =Glad and Golden Days= - - Spread the Light! Spread the Light! - Till earth’s remotest bounds have heard - The glory of the Living Word; - Till those that see not have their sight; - Till all the fringes of the night - Are lifted, and the long-closed doors - Are wide for ever to the Light. - Spread the Light! - * * * * * - - O then shall dawn the golden days, - To which true hearts are pressing; - When earth’s discordant strains shall blend-- - The one true God confessing; - When Christly thought and Christly deed - Shall bind each heart and nation, - In one Grand Brotherhood of Men, - And one high consecration. - - JOHN OXENHAM. - - -After our return from Betsileo and our visitation of the Imerina -country stations, we spent three weeks in Tananarive to meet with the -missionaries in their District Committee, in order to consult together -as to the present position and future work. We also took part in a -Conference with the representatives of all the Protestant Missionary -Societies at work in the island, and attended the great half-yearly -meeting of the native Christians known as the Isan-Enim-Bolana. It -is not the purpose of this record of travel to discuss questions -of missionary politics, or to deal with matters considered at the -Joint Conference. Suffice it to say that the intercourse with the -missionaries of our own and other Societies during those closing weeks -of our stay was a time of happy fellowship. In the interludes between -more serious work delightful social receptions and garden parties were -organised by several of the Missions, and we enjoyed the hospitality of -the Bishop of Madagascar and of our French and Norwegian friends. - -There was one gathering, however, of very special interest to us, as -representatives of the L. M. S. On September 30th it was our privilege -to take part in the celebration of the jubilee of the landing at -Tamatave of our honoured veteran missionary, Dr. James Sibree. Mr. -Sibree, as he was then, went out to Madagascar as architect of the -Memorial Churches to be erected in Tananarive in commemoration of the -martyrs “faithful unto death,” who lost their lives during the time -of persecution. These Churches remain until this day, not only as -memorials to the martyrs, but as monuments to the taste and skill of -Mr. Sibree as an architect. But his services in this direction have not -been confined to the Memorial Churches. In after years to the present -time he has prepared the plans of upwards of 40 Churches in different -parts of Madagascar. - -But Dr. Sibree will leave behind him, when the time comes for him to -bid farewell to Madagascar, a more enduring memorial than churches -of brick and stone. When he had completed the task which originally -took him to the island he returned to England, and, after taking -his theological course at Spring Hill, went back to Madagascar as a -clerical missionary, and from that day to this, with ceaseless energy -and devotion, he has been engaged in building the Invisible Church, “a -house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens.” - -The epitaph upon the tomb of another architect, Sir Christopher Wren, -in St. Paul’s Cathedral, “Si monumentum requiris circumspice,” is -equally applicable to Dr. Sibree, for no missionary has left behind -him in Madagascar a more enduring memorial of his life and work than -will Dr. Sibree. His energies, too, have found an outlet in other -directions. His most conspicuous service to the Mission has been -rendered in connection with the training of preachers and pastors. -For upwards of thirty years he has been associated with the Society’s -Theological College in Tananarive, and during that period several -hundred students have received the benefit of his instruction and -influence. As a writer of books and articles he has given to the world -much information, not only with regard to Madagascar, but also with -regard to the Cathedrals of the Homeland. The articles on Madagascar -in the last two editions of the Encyclopedia Britannica have come from -his pen, and he is a recognised authority on all matters relating to -the island. He has rendered invaluable service as a translator, and -especially in the revision of the Malagasy Scriptures. He does not know -what it is to be idle. In his seventy-seventh year he is an example -and a rebuke to men of half his age; from early morning until late at -night he is always at work. - -Dr. Sibree has, throughout his missionary life, been ably seconded -and supported in all his “works of faith and labours of love” by his -devoted wife, to whom the women and girls of Ambohimanga, and, in later -years, of Tananarive, owe so much. As I have already mentioned, Dr. and -Mrs. Sibree have given four children to missionary work. Two of their -daughters, Mrs. Milledge and Miss Elsie Sibree are to-day rendering -fine service to the kingdom in Madagascar. - -On the Jubilee day a great gathering of missionaries was held -in Faravohitra Church in honour of Dr. and Mrs. Sibree. Several -presentations were made to them from the Directors of our Society, from -their fellow missionaries and from the missionaries of other Societies, -in recognition of the services they have rendered, and of the respect, -esteem and affection in which they are held. It is said that never -before in the history of Madagascar has such a large gathering of -missionaries taken place. Later in the same day a reception and garden -party were held, at which even a larger number of the missionary -community were present to celebrate the occasion. A few days afterwards -a great gathering of past and present students of the Theological -College met to offer their tribute of gratitude and esteem to the -missionary who had trained so many of the preachers, pastors, and -evangelists, now engaged in the evangelization of the island. - -[Illustration: DR. AND MRS. SIBREE.] - -Only a passing reference can be made to the meetings of the Joint -Conference. This gathering was unique, for it is believed that never -before in the history of the Christian Church have all the Protestant -Missionary Societies at work in a mission field appointed simultaneous -deputations to unite with the missionaries on the spot to study in -common the problems and needs of the field, and to plan together -for its evangelization. Many matters of common interest to all the -Societies were considered, and important discussions were held with -the Malagasy Christian leaders. The subjects of the evangelization of -the island, the work of delimitation, education, the social and moral -condition of the people, the recrudescence of heathenism, the growth -of atheism and agnosticism, and many other questions vitally affecting -the life of the people and the growth of the Church came up for -discussion. The meetings were held in the beautiful French Protestant -Church in Tananarive in the early days of October. The tone and spirit -which prevailed throughout the deliberations were of the highest. The -Conference owed much to its Chairman, M. le Pasteur Couve, who presided -throughout with wisdom, tact, patience and good humour. The holding -of such a Conference in which High Anglican, Lutheran, Quaker and -Congregationalist, British, French, Norwegian, and American took an -equal part, was a remarkable evidence of the growth of the spirit of -comity and co-operation in the mission field. - -But amongst the many vivid experiences of those crowded closing days -in Tananarive, the most lasting impression was that made by the great -meetings of the Isan-Enim-Bolana. This institution is a federation -of the Imerina Churches of the L. M. S., F. F. M. A., and P. M. S., -and it holds a warm place in the regard and affection of the Malagasy -Christians. Moreover, it is a Missionary Society and sends its own -native missionaries into the outlying districts in the North where, -but for its efforts, there would be no Christian work carried on. It -is the child of the London Missionary Society, and came into being in -the year 1868. Since then it has met every half-year in the Capital, -and its gatherings are always marked with a spirit of great earnestness -and enthusiasm. It met in October, and high as our expectations -were from what we had heard, the gatherings surpassed all that our -imagination had pictured. On Wednesday afternoon, October 8th, five -preaching services were held at the same hour in five of the largest -Churches in the Capital, and these were followed by two great meetings -in connection with the Christian Endeavour Societies. Perhaps a short -account of my own experiences at the Isan-Enim-Bolana, which were -similar to those of my fellow-delegates, will convey some impression -of the character of these Meetings. I was taking lunch with a party -of French Missionaries, when M. Pierre de Seynes came to tell me that -the French Church in which I was to speak was already crowded to its -utmost limits, although it was nearly two hours before the time for -the commencement of the service. On reaching the Church an hour and -a half later I had the greatest difficulty in effecting an entrance. -There was a dense crowd round the door of those who could not find -room. It required great care to walk up the aisle without treading -upon the women, who were sitting on the ground two abreast. The great -congregation occupied every foot of available space; the floor of the -chancel was packed, and men were sitting on the communion rails, on the -top of the harmonium, and on the pulpit steps. Moreover, there were -groups of people round the numerous open windows on the ground floor, -and the gallery and the steps leading to it were likewise crowded. The -scene from the pulpit can never be forgotten. The contrast between the -black hair, brown faces and white lambas of the worshippers formed a -striking picture. Pastor Rabary, the Chairman of the Isan-Enim-Bolana, -translated for me. The vigorous action and fine declamation of the -interpreter, combined with the inspiration which one receives from the -enthusiasm and devoutness of a great audience, had their effect upon -the quieter methods of the more phlegmatic Englishman, and I found -myself moved to speak with a force and earnestness rarely experienced -before. My address was followed by what I am told was an eloquent -sermon by one of the ablest of the younger Malagasy leaders, Pastor -Rakotonirainy, who is also a successful master in one of the F. F. M. -A. Schools. As soon as the service was over the congregation hurried -away to a great Christian Endeavour meeting at Ampamarinana, where -the Church was already packed. An overflow meeting was arranged to be -held in the Church which we had just left, and in a few moments that -building was again filled to overflowing, and I was called upon to give -another address, which was translated by Pastor Razafimahefa, who -interprets from both French or English into Malagasy with wonderful -force and fluency. - -But the greatest gatherings took place on the following morning. At -6 o’clock seven of the most spacious Churches were thronged to their -utmost capacity, some having arrived at 4 a.m. to secure a seat for -the meetings, which were not to commence till four hours later. I -was appointed to speak at the great meeting for men in the spacious -Ampamarinana Church, which had for hours been filled to overflowing. -As soon as I had spoken I was hurried away in a chair to an overflow -meeting in a neighbouring Church, and, having spoken there, went on to -Faravohitra Church, which was crowded with women, where my address was -translated by Mrs. Milledge, who speaks Malagasy like a native. The -service at this Church was concluded by eleven o’clock. Then came one -of the characteristic features of the meetings of the Isan-Enim-Bolana. -It is the practice for the Mother Churches in the Capital to entertain -the delegates from the various Daughter Churches in the country. I -went to Analakely, where some 1,400 people sat down in five relays -to abundant meals of rice and meat prepared by their hosts. The same -gracious hospitality was shown in each of the Mother Churches of -Tananarive. After attending such gatherings one wonders whether there -is any place in the world, unless it is Korea, where such great crowds -gather for Christian worship. - -The hearts of sympathetic visitors to Madagascar are often thrilled -at these manifest signs of the Divine blessing upon the work of the -Missionaries, but very little investigation shows that there is another -side to the picture, and that the young Malagasy Church needs all its -zeal and courage to face the difficulties and dangers with which it is -surrounded. Apart from the experience which unfortunately is common in -all Christian communities, that practice does not always correspond -with profession, the Malagasy Christians have special difficulties of -their own which confront the growing Church. They have to face the -temptations which beset a backward race living in the tropics, and the -struggle with sensualism and immorality is a severe one. - -Moreover, in recent years materialism and agnosticism have come -into the land like a flood, and tax to the uttermost the wisdom and -consecration of the Christian workers in the island. Again, it must be -remembered that the activities of the Church are being carried on in -an unsympathetic environment, for apart from the deadening influence -of the native heathenism amidst which the Church is at work, the -unfriendly attitude towards religion of the French official class is -felt on every hand. Again, on the north-east and north-west coasts the -menace of the advance of Islam is increasingly felt, and already there -are at least 75,000 Moslems in the country, professing a degraded type -of Mohammedanism and introducing many vices, especially drunkenness -and immorality. It will be a surprise to many to know that during the -recent Balkan war a collection was made in Madagascar to help the -Turks to fight “the vile Christians.” - -With these and other difficulties confronting the young Malagasy -Church, it will be readily understood that the battle is by no means -won. Moreover, much of the field has, up to the present, not been -occupied by the Christian army, and great is the work remaining to be -accomplished. - -If one stands on the verandah of “the House of Sweet Breezes” at -Anjozorobe, the Society’s most northern station, and turn one’s eyes -to the north, there is a stretch of country extending well-nigh 500 -miles to Diego Suarez. In this vast district, the area of which exceeds -that of England and Wales, there is at the present time but one white -missionary. It is true that some dozen native missionaries, sent out -by the Isan-Enim-Bolana of Imerina, are at work in this territory, -and many of these men are carrying on their missionary labours with -energy and devotion, but without any European supervision. The Native -Missionary organisation which sent them forth would welcome such -supervision, and would be prepared to send more labourers into the -vineyard, if well-trained men were available for service. In the near -future the main work of the European missionary must be the training -of the Native missionary. As the Church at the centre grows and -multiplies, and becomes stronger and more efficient, the need of the -presence of a large number of European missionaries will gradually -diminish. The test of the success of their work will be that they have -made themselves unnecessary. As the College in Tananarive attracts -and trains and sets to work Christian Natives of good education -and apostolic fervour, so the work now carried on by the European -missionaries will steadily pass into the hands of the Native Pastors, -and, under the blessing of God, the day will come in the not distant -future when the foreign worker will be able to withdraw, having -completed his task. - - “And lo! already on the hills - The flags of dawn appear; - Gird up your loins, ye prophet souls, - Proclaim the day is near; - - The day in whose clear-shining light - All wrong shall stand revealed, - When justice shall be clothed with might, - And every hurt be healed: - - When knowledge, hand in hand with peace, - Shall walk the earth abroad,-- - The day of perfect righteousness, - The promised day of God.” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE -DARK *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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H. Hawkins</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Through lands that were dark</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: F. H. Hawkins</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: January 29, 2023 [eBook #69906]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE DARK ***</div> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span></p> -<h1>THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE DARK</h1> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w50" alt="Khama, the Christian Chief of the Bamangwato -Tribe"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap">Khama, the Christian Chief of the Bamangwato -Tribe.</span><br></p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - - - -<p class="center"><span class="xbig"> -THROUGH LANDS<br> -THAT WERE DARK</span><br> -<br> -Being a Record of a Year’s Missionary Journey<br> -in Africa and Madagascar<br> -</p> -<p class="center p2"> -BY<br> -<span class="big">F. H. HAWKINS, LL.B.,</span><br> -<br> -Foreign Secretary of the London Missionary Society for Africa, China<br> -and Madagascar.<br> -</p> -<p class="poetry p2"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“<i>To the Darkness and the Sorrow of the Night</i></span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Came the Wonder and the Glory of the Light</i>”</span><br> -</p> -<p class="center p2"> -<span class="big">LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY</span><br> -16, New Bridge Street, London, E.C.<br> -1914<br> -</p></div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Dedication">Dedication</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This little Book is dedicated (without permission) to the Friend whose -generosity made it possible for the journey herein recorded to be taken -free of any expense to the London Missionary Society</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Table_of_Contents">Table of Contents</h2> -</div> - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><th></th><th></th><th class="tdr page">PAGE</th></tr> -<tr><td></td><td> -<a href="#FOREWORD"><span class="smcap">Foreword</span></a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl" colspan="3"> -<a href="#A-SOUTH_AFRICA">A. <span class="smcap">South Africa</span>:</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Darkness and Light</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_II">The Light Spreading Northward</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Tiger Kloof—“A Lamp Shining in a Dark Place”</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl" colspan="3"> -<a href="#B-CENTRAL_AFRICA">B. <span class="smcap">Central Africa</span>:</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">The Heart of the Dark Continent</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_V">The Brightness of His Rising</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl" colspan="3"> -<a href="#C-MADAGASCAR">C. <span class="smcap">Madagascar</span>:</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Tananarive—“A City set on a Hill”</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">Imerina Country Districts—“Fields White Unto Harvest”</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Betsileo—“The Sombre Fringes of the Night”</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Glad and Golden Days</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="List_of_Illustrations">List of Illustrations</h2> -</div> - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><th></th><th></th><th class="tdr page">PAGE</th></tr> -<tr><td></td><td> -<a href="#img001">Chief Khama</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img001"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">1.</td><td><a href="#img002">Map of South Africa</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img002">15</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">2.</td><td><a href="#img003">Kuruman Mission House</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img003"><i>facing</i> 34</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">3.</td><td><a href="#img004">The New Kuruman Waggon</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img004">”     34</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">4.</td><td><a href="#img005">Tiger Kloof</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img005">”     64</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">5.</td><td><a href="#img006">Map of Central Africa</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img006">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">6.</td><td><a href="#img007">Missionaries’ Children</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img007"><i>facing</i> 70</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">7.</td><td><a href="#img008">Native with Fish Trap</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img008">”     82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">8.</td><td><a href="#img009">Kafukula Mission House</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img009">”     95</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">9.</td><td><a href="#img010">Map of Madagascar</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img010">109</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">10.</td><td><a href="#img011">Malagasy Girls at Girls’ Home</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img011"><i>facing</i> 121</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdr">11.</td><td><a href="#img012"><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> and Mrs. Sibree</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#img012">”     152</a></td></tr> -</table> -<p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I hear a clear voice calling, calling,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Calling out of the night,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O, you who live in the Light of Life,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Bring us the Light!</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We are bound in the chains of darkness,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Our eyes received no sight,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O, you who have never been bound or blind,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Bring us the Light!</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We live amid turmoil and horror,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where might is the only right,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O, you to whom life is liberty,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Bring us the Light!</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We stand in the ashes of ruins,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We are ready to fight the fight,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O, you whose feet are firm on the Rock,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Bring us the Light!</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">You cannot—you shall not forget us,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Out here in the darkest night,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We are drowning men, we are dying men,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Bring, O, bring us the Light!</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">John Oxenham.</span></span><br> -</p></div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD">FOREWORD</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This short record of a year’s missionary journey in Africa and -Madagascar is written at the request of the Directors of the London -Missionary Society, and is based upon a series of Journal Letters -written to my family and friends while I have been on my travels. This -fact must be my excuse for writing in the first person. This little -book has been prepared in the midst of the pressure of Secretarial work.</p> - -<p>My visit to South Africa was a Secretarial visit. In Central Africa -and Madagascar I formed one of a Deputation from the London Missionary -Society. My colleague in Central Africa was the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> W. S. Houghton of -Birmingham, and in Madagascar the other members of the Deputation were -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Houghton and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Talbot E. B. Wilson of Sheffield.</p> - -<p>It is not my purpose to attempt to give any description of the three -Mission Fields which it has been my privilege to visit during the -journey. Details with regard to the countries and the peoples will be -found in three Handbooks published by the Society.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<p>Nor does the discussion of questions of missionary policy or any -account of the details of the work in the various fields fall within -the scope of this book. These matters have been dealt with in Reports -prepared for the Directors of the Society. Further information with -regard to all the fields can be obtained in the Society’s Annual -Report. Some account of Madagascar and the missionary work there -will be also found in a book just published, entitled “Madagascar -for Christ,” being the Joint Report of the Simultaneous Deputations -from the London Missionary Society, The Friends’ Foreign Mission -Association, and the Paris Missionary Society, which have recently -returned from Madagascar.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<p>The journey has been one of great fascination. From the point of view -of the traveller it has been full of interest. From the point of view -of a Secretary of a Missionary Society carrying on work in the lands -visited, the outstanding impression has been that of the growing -Christian Church. In Central Africa that Church is in its infancy, -but it is an infancy full of promise. In South Africa and Madagascar -the Native Church is nearly a century old. Its foundations have been -well and truly laid, and it exhibits all the signs of healthy life and -growth. As one travelled from station to station and came into contact -with the Native Church in all stages of development and met the Native -leaders of that Church, one looked into the future and saw a vision -of a Church which would one day become not only self-supporting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> and -self-governing, but so possessed with the missionary spirit that it -would be an instrument in God’s hands for evangelising the peoples -amongst whom it is now set as a lamp in the night. One hundred years -ago and less these lands were in gross darkness; to-day the curtains -of the night are being lifted and long closed doors are wide open to -the light. The darkness has turned to dawning and the growing Church is -becoming “a burning and a shining light” in the lands which aforetime -sat “in darkness and in the shadow of death.”</p> - -<p class="right"> -F. H. H.<br> -</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>31st January, 1914.</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> “South Africa”: <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> W. A. Elliott (price 6d., post free -8d.); “Central Africa”: Mrs. John May, B.A. (price 6d., post free -7¹⁄₂d.); “Madagascar”: <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> James Sibree, D.D., F.R.G.S. (price 6d., -post free 8d.). I am much indebted to the “Ten Years’ Review” of the -Madagascar Mission, edited by <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree (L.M.S., price 2s. 6d. net), -for much information embodied in the Madagascar section of the book.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Copies can be obtained at the L.M.S., 6d. net, post free -8d.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> - -<p class="center xbig">Through Lands That Were Dark</p> -</div> - - -<hr class="r5"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="A-SOUTH_AFRICA">A.—SOUTH AFRICA</h2> -<hr class="r5"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I<br><span class="small">Darkness and Light</span></h3> - - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A land of lights and shadows intervolved,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A land of blazing sun and blackest night.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">John Oxenham.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>South Africa exercises a great charm over those who visit it. It is a -land of sunshine. An unkind critic has described it as “a land of trees -without shade, rivers without water, flowers without scent, and birds -without song.” It is a land of vast distances and sparse population. -The portion of the African Continent which is popularly referred to as -“South Africa” is that part which lies south of the Zambesi. This great -expanse of country is as large as Europe without Russia, Scandinavia -and the British Isles, but its entire population is less than that of -greater London.</p> - -<p>I left England in the late autumn and arrived at Cape Town seventeen -days later in the early summer. London<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> fog was exchanged for a land -of lovely flowers and luscious fruits. Cape Town has been so often -described that I will not dwell upon its beauties or attempt to draw a -picture of Table Mountain, The Devil’s Peak, The Lion’s Head, or The -Twelve Apostles.</p> - -<p>My first impression—and it is a lasting one—was of the abounding -kindness and hospitality of the Colonials wherever I went. On the -day of my arrival I was entertained by the Executive Committee of -the Congregational Union of South Africa. On the following day I -was the guest of the Archbishop of Cape Town at his lovely home at -Bishopscourt, where I met fourteen South African Bishops in full -canonicals gathered together for their Annual Synod. Bishopscourt is -a beautiful old Dutch House with a far-famed garden which surpassed -in luxuriance of colour anything I had ever seen except in Japan. -All through South and Central Africa I was often the guest of -Government officials and European residents, and everywhere received, -as the representative of the Society, a warm welcome and the utmost -hospitality and kindness.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img002"> -<img src="images/002.jpg" class="w50" alt="Map of South Africa, showing L.M.S. Mission -Stations."> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap">Map of South Africa, showing L.M.S. Mission -Stations.</span><br></p> - -<p>My next impression was of the great contribution which the London -Missionary Society has made to the public life and development of Cape -Colony and South Africa generally, quite apart from the direct work -which its missionaries have been able to accomplish. Evidences of the -value of this contribution abounded everywhere I went. In Cape Town -I had the pleasure of meeting the Hon. W. P. Schreiner, who was the -Prime Minister of Cape Colony at the outbreak of the Boer War. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> -Schreiner is now a member of the Senate, specially chosen to represent -the interests of the Native population. He is recognised as the -leading lawyer in South Africa. I also met his brother, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Theophilus -Schreiner, who is also a member of the Legislature and is well-known -as a leading Temperance advocate. Their sister, Olive Schreiner, the -authoress of “The Story of an African Farm,” is known wherever English -literature is read. This distinguished family are the children of an L. -M. S. Missionary.</p> - -<p>It is not often that three brothers receive the honour of knighthood -for public services. Sir William Solomon, Sir Saul Solomon and the -late Sir Richard Solomon (who was Agent-General for the Commonwealth -of South Africa, and who died a few weeks ago) are sons of an L. M. S. -Missionary. In its Review of the year 1913, the <i>Times</i> speaks of -Sir Richard Solomon as “the most distinguished South African of his -generation, a man who was loved by his intimates and respected by all -for his ability and efficiency,” and of Sir William Solomon as “an -eminent judge.”</p> - -<p><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Mackenzie, the leading physician in Kimberley; his brother, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> W. -Douglas Mackenzie, the Principal of the Hartford Theological Seminary, -U.S.A.; and another brother, at present Solicitor-General for Southern -Rhodesia, are three sons of John Mackenzie, the missionary-statesman of -South Africa and Lord Rosebery’s friend, who had so much to do with the -making of history in South Africa thirty years ago. I need only mention -other families whose names are household words in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> South Africa, and -whose representatives are to be found in many places—the Philips, the -Moffats, the Kaysers, the Andersons, the Helms, the Rose-Innes, to show -how large a part the L. M. S. has indirectly played in building up the -Commonwealth of South Africa.</p> - -<p>Throughout Cape Colony I found numerous Congregational Churches of -coloured people at places which were formerly Mission Stations of -the Society. Amongst others, Pacaltsdorp, Kruisfontein, Hankey, -Port Elizabeth, King Williams Town, and Fort Beaufort were visited. -The Society many years ago withdrew its missionaries and left these -Churches to develop along their own lines into self-governing -communities, supporting their own pastorate and carrying on their -own work. Wherever one went, one found evidences of the great part -which the Society had played in days gone by in planting churches -which are now independent, thus contributing both to the civilisation -and evangelization of the peoples of the land. Passing reference may -be made to one of these Churches which I visited. In the Brownlee -location at King Williams Town I found at work the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> John Harper, -who nearly thirty years ago exchanged his position as a missionary -of the Society for that of pastor of the Congregational Church. For -forty-five years he has laboured there as the minister of the Kaffir -Church in the Native Location and in charge of nineteen out-stations. -This veteran not only ministers to the spiritual needs of a very large -congregation, but acts both as doctor and lawyer to all the natives. -In 1912 he treated 4,000 patients and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> acted as guide, philosopher and -friend to the members of his congregations, advising them in all their -difficulties, drawing up their wills for them and ever looking after -their temporal and spiritual interests. Many of these coloured Churches -are now served by ministers of their own race, who have been trained -for the pastorate.</p> - -<p>From Cape Town I proceeded to Great Brak River and paid a short visit -to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Thomas Searle, who for some years has been the Society’s Agent -for its properties at Hankey and Kruisfontein. The history of the -Searle family at Great Brak River during the last fifty years affords a -good example of the contribution to the development of the Colony which -Christian families have been able to make.</p> - -<p>On the 31st December, 1859, the late <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Charles Searle arrived at -Great Brak River with his wife and four children to take up the -position of toll-keeper at the Causeway carrying the main road over the -river. The toll-house was the only habitation in the place. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Searle -erected a house for the accommodation of travellers, and afterwards a -shop and a store. Four more children were born. He purchased a farm of -354 acres for £91, and spent some money in constructing water-furrows. -A church was built. The business grew and subsequently a tannery and -boot-and-shoe factory were started. Branch stores were afterwards -established at George, Oudtshoorn, Heidelberg, Riversdale and a -wholesale depot at Mossel Bay. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Searle had three sons, Charles, -William, and Thomas, who entered the business, and now direct the -Limited Company, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> has been formed to carry it on. As the place -grew the Searles successfully opposed all applications for a licence -for the sale of intoxicating drinks, and to-day there is no licence -between Mossel Bay, 16 miles to the west, and George, 18³⁄₄ miles to -the east. The present population of Great Brak River exceeds 900, all -of whom are in the employ of, or dependent on, the Searles, except -the doctor, the post-master and the school-teacher. At first, all the -employees were coloured people. Latterly, however, white people have -also been employed, but they are treated exactly in the same way as the -coloured people and receive the same wages as coloured people doing -similar work. A very large new factory is now being built. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Thomas -Searle preaches regularly in the spacious church. Dutch is the language -spoken. There is an excellent golf course. About six years ago old <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -and Mrs. Charles Searle died. They and other members of the family are -buried in the beautiful little private cemetery in <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Thomas Searle’s -garden—the first of numerous garden burial places I saw in different -places in the Colony. The three sons continue to reside in Great Brak -River honoured and esteemed by the whole countryside.</p> - -<p>While at Great Brak River I paid a visit to Pacaltsdorp, an old L. -M. S. station founded 100 years ago, where the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> G. B. Anderson, -whose father and grandfather were L. M. S. missionaries, is pastor. A -massive stone Church was erected in 1824, and is a memorial to the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> -Charles Pacalt, who devoted his salary to the building of the Church. -In addition to being pastor,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Anderson is also schoolmaster, -post-master, registrar of births, marriages and deaths and agent for -the Society’s property known as Hansmoeskraal farm.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Searle kindly took me in his motor car to visit Kruisfontein and -Hankey, where the Society still owns property. The South African roads -are not constructed for motor car traffic. They defy description and -I shall not soon forget this journey. The gradients are very bad, the -surface execrable. The ruts, rocks, stones and especially the sand -made rapid travel in a motor car a mixed pleasure. Rivers, and more -often dry river-beds, had to be crossed. For the most part the roads -were very narrow and were often over-hung with trees and prickly-pear, -constantly blocked by great ox-waggons with teams of fourteen to -eighteen oxen, or by goats, sheep, pigs, cows and more often than all -by ostriches, which seemed to take a delight in trying to race the car. -In spite of, or perhaps partly because of, these drawbacks, however, -the journey was most enjoyable. Some parts were very wild and desolate, -but others were scenes of sylvan beauty. There were mountain passes, -ravines, funereal forests (in one of which wild elephants are still to -be found), fairy glens and water-falls (often with very little water on -account of the prolonged drought), and in turn one was reminded of the -Pass of Glencoe, the Barmouth Estuary, the Precipice Walk, Dolgelley, -the New Forest and the Highlands of Scotland.</p> - -<p>Hankey is a name well known to all interested in the work of the L. -M. S. in South Africa. Through the engineering skill of one of the -missionaries applied to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> the construction of a tunnel through a narrow -mountain ridge, the waters of the Gamtoos River were made available for -watering the Hankey valley, and ever since the desert has “blossomed -as the rose.” Above this tunnel, near the top of the mountain, is a -remarkable natural feature known as “The Window.” It is a large opening -in the rocky ridge through which a beautiful landscape can be seen on -both sides.</p> - -<p>Another feature of Hankey which impresses a stranger from Europe is the -frogs’ chorus every evening rising from an innumerable multitude of -these amphibious reptiles which infest the fields and water-furrows. -They are known as the canaries of South Africa, and reminded one of the -music so characteristic of the rice fields of Central China.</p> - -<p>At Hankey there is a large Church of coloured people, representing an -old mission station of the Society, and an Institution for the training -of teachers now under the control of the South African Congregational -Union. Through the sale of the Society’s property a considerable -population of Europeans has been attracted to Hankey, and I had the -honour during my visit of opening the new European Church.</p> - -<p>From Hankey I proceeded to Port Elizabeth, where I was again hospitably -entertained. I had an opportunity of meeting the Congregational -ministers and the leading laymen at a Reception, and learnt much of -the contribution of the L. M. S. to the development of this part of -South Africa. The coloured Church there for so many years ministered -to by the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> William<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> Dower, formerly a missionary of the Society, -is another instance of a strong self-supporting and self-governing -Church which has grown out of the missionary work of years gone by. On -the occasion of my visit it was crowded from floor to ceiling with a -congregation of coloured people, who are under the pastoral care of a -young and able coloured minister.</p> - -<p>After leaving Port Elizabeth I had the privilege of paying a visit to -two of the greatest Native Institutions in South Africa. At Healdtown, -near Fort Beaufort, the Wesleyans are carrying on a great work in the -training of Native Teachers. There are 185 boy and 84 girl boarders. -The results obtained in the Government examinations are the best in the -Colony. The students come from all parts; most of them are Kaffirs. The -medium of instruction is English. This great work is mainly the result -of the blessing of God upon the labours of one man, Principal R. F. -Hornabrook, who is in supreme control. The Institution is nominally in -charge of a Committee which, however, has not met for ten years. When -he commenced work there twenty-two years ago there were thirty-three -students. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hornabrook is his own architect and builder. He is also -a farmer and a doctor. The fees charged are £12 a year, and there is a -large Government grant. Some small help is given by the Wesleyans in -South Africa. Not a penny comes from England. The buildings are quite -unambitious in character, and for the most part have been erected -from the profits made from carrying on the Institution. The whole -enterprise is a triumph<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> of organisation. There are four white men -teachers, three white lady teachers, two matrons and several coloured -teachers. The course is three years, and the students must have passed -the sixth standard before they enter. All have a little manual labour -to do, but there is no industrial department except so far as it is -necessary to teach woodwork. All sorts of difficulties have had to be -surmounted, the chief physical one being the water-supply, which is -now satisfactorily provided by a windmill. The whole Institution is a -monument of what can be done by one man with comparatively small funds. -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hornabrook is doing great things for South Africa.</p> - -<p>From Healdtown I journeyed to Lovedale, the centre of the world-famed -labours of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> James Stewart, who will always be known as “Stewart -of Lovedale.” This is an Institution carried on by the Free Church -of Scotland. There are 550 boarders from all parts of South Africa, -and of these 155 are girls. There is also a “practising school” -with 210 children. The fees range from £12 to £16 a year. Since the -Institution was commenced considerably over £100,000 has been received -in fees. Preachers and teachers for the South African Churches and -schools are trained here. The industrial work is widely known. The -Natives are taught carpentry, waggon-making, smith’s work, printing, -book-binding, boot and shoe making, office work, needle and laundry -work, horticulture and many other industrial pursuits.</p> - -<p>The present Principal is the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> James Henderson, formerly of the -Nyasaland Mission. The Warden of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> Boys’ department is <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Moore -Anderson, a son of Sir Robert Anderson, at one time Chief of the -Metropolitan Police Force. On the staff there is the famous South -African astronomer, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Roberts. It was good to find the daughter of -one of our present South African missionaries occupying a responsible -position in the Girls’ department. Words fail me to describe the great -work which is being done. The Institution is an enduring memorial to -the ability and devotion of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Stewart. Over the grave of this great -and good man, which I visited, is the simple inscription, “James -Stewart, Missionary.” On the hill-top is a huge stone monument erected -to his memory.</p> - -<p>On leaving Lovedale I journeyed <i>via</i> King Williams Town, Blaney -Junction, and De Aar to Kimberley. The railway meanders in and out -amongst the hills through picturesque scenery. Great rocks are much -in evidence. On the latter part of the journey I passed numerous -block-houses and stretches of galvanised wire fencing reminiscent -of the Boer war. Here as elsewhere the country has an unfinished -look about it. Most of the buildings are of galvanised iron. Long -distances were traversed without any signs of human habitation, and -where such signs appeared they were not always pleasing. The wretched -huts of “red-blanket kaffirs,” and the abject poverty in which they -live, showed that there is still much to be done to raise the native -inhabitants out of their degradation and to teach them to live decent -lives.</p> - -<p>In order to see at first-hand the conditions under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> which so many of -the Bechuanaland Natives live in the Compounds of the great De Beers’ -Diamond Mines, I visited Kimberley. <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Mackenzie kindly took me over -the diamond mine workings and one of the Compounds. From these mines -the bulk of the world’s supply of diamonds comes. I was very pleased -with what I saw in the Compound I visited, where 4,762 natives were -quartered. The annual death rate is only eight per thousand, about -half that of London. Every provision is made for the comfort, health -and well-being of the native workers. There is an admirable hospital -and a well-organised store, where the necessaries of life are to be -obtained at cost price. The fact that the natives are well cared for is -evidenced by the popularity of the work in the Kimberley mines all over -South Africa. Natives who have worked there return again and again for -a further period. There can be no doubt that the restraint upon their -liberty, to which they voluntarily submit while at work in the mines, -is greatly to their advantage, and the facilities which exist for the -remitting of wages to their families obviate, to a great extent, the -risks they would run if they left the Compound with large sums of money -in their possession. Nor are their spiritual needs neglected.</p> - -<p>While at Kimberley I paid a visit to Barkly West, formerly a mission -station of the Society for many years, associated with the name of -William Ashton. From Kimberley I proceeded to Tiger Kloof. I shall -refer to the great work which is being carried on there later in this -narrative.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p> - -<p>As one travelled through the Cape Province and visited many places, -which were at one time stations of the Society in the charge of -missionaries and entirely supported by funds from home, but are now -independent Churches carrying on their own work, one realised the -power of the growing Church in the lands which 100 years ago were -in darkness. This province is still “A land of lights and shadows -intervolved, a land of blazing sun and blackest night,” and some of -its portals are still “barred against the light.” That light has for a -century and more been beating up against “close-barred doors,” but the -missionary traveller looking down “the future’s broadening way” sees -many a sign that the time will surely come—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 11em;">“When, like a swelling tide,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Word shall leap the barriers, and The Light</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall sweep the land; and Faith and Love and Hope</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall win for Christ this stronghold of the night.”</span><br> -</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II<br><span class="small">The Light Spreading Northward</span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kingdoms wide that sit in darkness,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Grant them, Lord, Thy glorious light;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And from eastern coast to western,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">May the morning chase the night.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">William Williams.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>Up to this stage the narrative of travel has taken us through districts -in which the London Missionary Society has laboured in days gone by. -We shall now visit the stations where it is carrying on work at the -present day.</p> - -<p>Until quite recently the South Africa Mission of the L. M. S. might -be described, from the point of view of means of locomotion, as “an -Ox-waggon Mission.” The days of the Ox-waggon are rapidly passing. -This slow cumbersome means of conveyance, which was formerly almost -universal throughout South Africa, is giving place to the Cape cart and -the Railway. The change is symptomatic of the progress in the methods -of work. Greater facilities of communication have revolutionized the -conditions under which Missionary work is carried on. Missionaries are -no longer isolated from their fellows as they were in the days of old. -Until recently they were obliged to spend a considerable portion of -their time in actual travel in the ox-waggon. Now they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> can get about -rapidly and are able to cover much more ground and visit many more -out-stations in a given period of time. I was enabled to visit the -Society’s stations in Bechuanaland and Matebeleland in one-fifth of the -time which would have been necessary for such a visitation thirty years -ago.</p> - -<p>After a few days’ stay at Tiger Kloof, the first place I visited was -Vryburg, where the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> A. J. Wookey, the missionary in charge of the -numerous scattered Churches of the Baralong tribe, resides. Vryburg -is not in a true sense a station of the Society, but the headquarters -for an extensive out-station work. After a stay of two days there, -I journeyed with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wookey in a Cape cart drawn by four horses to -Ganyesa, forty miles to the north-west. The growth of the work in -the lifetime of a single missionary is well illustrated by what has -happened at this place. When <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wookey first visited it, forty-three -years ago, two or three people met with him for worship in a hut there. -A man read the Scriptures, and a woman led in prayer and preached. -Now there is a good stone Church with 120 Church members, and an -Anglo-vernacular school with seventy children. Connected with it are -three branch churches and schools.</p> - -<p>A short description of the visit to Ganyesa will serve to illustrate -one’s experience at many a country out-station in Bechuanaland and -Matebeleland. I started from Vryburg at 7.10 and reached Ganyesa at -4.30, after out-spanning twice. We camped for the night on an open -common, in the middle of a large Native Reserve, close to an ox-waggon -which had brought two other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> missionaries, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Haydon -Lewis, to the place. On all sides stretched the illimitable veldt. -There were very few trees, but almost all around the sky-line was -broken by the conical thatched roofs of the Native huts. Close at -hand were to be seen emaciated oxen returning from the almost dry -watering-places in charge of little black herd-boys, who were nearly -naked, their bodies glistening like polished ebony, and having an -appearance which suggested that they had recently been black-leaded, -and presenting a great contrast with the white of their eyes and of -their perfect teeth. After my arrival I was visited by the schoolmaster -and the deacons, and afterwards attended a concert in the Church, -organised to raise funds to help to send a teacher to Tiger Kloof. -The price of a ticket for the concert was 6d. The night was hot, and -the Church was packed. In spite of the almost overpowering heat the -doors and windows were kept closed, in order that the crowd outside -should not enjoy the music for which they had not paid! The atmosphere -within was beyond description. Evening meetings are almost unknown -in Bechuanaland. Some antique lamps had been requisitioned, and the -air was laden with the pungent smell of the lamp oil. The “Bouquet -d’Afrique” was also strongly in evidence. The audience afforded a -picturesque scene in the dim lamp light. Most of the women wore highly -coloured head-dresses, and with their numerous babies sat on the floor, -which was made of a mixture of sand and cow-dung. The rest of their -dress was remarkable for its colour and variety. Many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> of the boys and -men were in dilapidated European costume. There were 100 items on the -programme, and the concert continued until the small hours of Sunday -morning. I left before midnight, and slept on the ground underneath the -bright penetrating stars. The darkness of the night was illuminated by -flashes of summer lightning on the eastern horizon.</p> - -<p>The following day, Sunday, will live in my memory. The service was -announced to begin at eleven o’clock, but at ten o’clock the evangelist -came to say that the chapel was already full, and forthwith the service -commenced. The building was crowded to its utmost capacity, and there -were large numbers of men, women and children sitting in the shade on -the ground outside. I spoke to the people from a side-door in order -that my words might be heard by the crowd inside and out. After the -service I was visited by a large number of deacons and workers from -the Churches for many miles round. Afterwards I went to see an old -woman named Dipepeng in her kraal near by. She is over eighty years -of age, and for a long time has not had the use of her legs. She sat -in the entrance to her hut in the shadow of the over-hanging eaves, -reading her Sechuana Bible. She told me she had been a servant to <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -and Mrs. Moffat at Kuruman, and remembered David Livingstone courting -Mary Moffat under the historic almond tree, and was present at their -wedding. She described them, and spoke of an arbour in the garden where -they used to sit. The old woman has been a Christian for sixty years, -and is deeply interested in the Church at Ganyesa.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span></p> - -<p>I visited the only European in the place, he being a store-keeper. In -the afternoon there was a baptismal service, Sunday School, a sermon, -and a crowded Communion Service conducted with great reverence. At -the close the people all rose and sang, “God be with you till we meet -again.” At day-break on the following morning there was a prayer -meeting. This was followed by the wedding of five couples, and a visit -to the school. Later in the morning <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wookey and I started on our -return journey to Vryburg in the Cape cart.</p> - -<p>Later in the week I journeyed by rail and cart to Taungs where <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -McGee is the resident missionary. The Society has carried on work there -for forty-five years, and although the Church membership in connection -with Taungs and its out-stations is the largest (1,184) connected with -any L. M. S. Church in South Africa, the place was described quite -recently by an experienced missionary as “a back-water of heathenism.” -The signs of heathenism are certainly very apparent. The Native Chief -is a bad specimen of a Bechuana. Some of his headmen make themselves -particularly hideous by a plentiful application of the contents of -the blue-bag to their faces and heads. There are many evidences of -superstition and heathenism, and yet there is another side to the -picture. On the Sunday the spacious Church—which has recently been -built by the tribe, heathen and Christian alike contributing—was -crowded both morning and afternoon. Twenty infants and thirty adults -were baptised. The scene from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> the platform was extremely picturesque. -About half the congregation consisted of women, most of whom wore -brilliantly coloured head-dresses, vivid yellows and startling pinks -predominating. Many were clad in gaudy shawls. In the afternoon a -solemn Communion Service was held, at which individual communion cups -were used. The service was rendered the more impressive by the fact -that a great thunderstorm broke before it closed. Looking through the -great west doors of the Church at the beginning of the service one -could see the wide-spreading veldt stretching away into the distance -as far as the eye could reach, and looking dry and thirsty in the -pitiless blaze of the afternoon sun. Then a kind of mist appeared -on the horizon. It was a dust-storm approaching. The natives have a -proverb which says that “God sweeps His land before He waters it.” -The clouds of dust came nearer, until at last all the doors had to be -shut. The Church became dark. Then came claps of thunder, which made -speaking difficult, while the dim interior was from time to time lit -up with brilliant flashes of lightning. Then followed a downpour of -heavy rain upon the galvanised iron roof, making a terrific noise. The -storm increased in intensity until there was a perfect artillery of -thunder, while the lightning was continuous and most vivid. In spite -of the storm the service was continued in an orderly fashion, and the -crowded congregation seemed perfectly oblivious to the hurricane raging -outside. The service concluded with thanksgiving for the rain, for -which the people had long been praying.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span></p> - -<p>Taungs is the centre of a widespread district, in which there are -twenty-three outstations regularly visited by the missionary. I -visited one of them, called Manthe, nine miles away. That visit was -impressed upon my memory by one of the appalling contrasts which are -so common in heathen lands. Under an extemporised roof at the back of -the evangelist’s house I saw and talked with a bright Christian boy, -the eldest son of the evangelist, by name Golekynie, who had been for -seven years at Tiger Kloof. He was on the point of passing his third -and final examination as a pupil-teacher, when, a month before, he had -been compelled to return home in an advanced stage of consumption. He -was lying on his bed in the open air. He spoke excellent English and -had a refined face and manner, and was evidently an earnest Christian -youth. He realised that he could not live long, and spoke with high -appreciation of the happiness that had come into his life at Tiger -Kloof. He told me that he was not afraid to die.</p> - -<p>An hour afterwards I paid a visit to the Chief of the village, who was -slowly dying of a loathsome disease in a wretched, evil-smelling native -house. He lay on a dirty mattress with a coloured blanket over him. He -was a heathen of a low type. Two of his wives and several children were -on the verandah outside the open window. After <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> McGee and I had left -he sent to us to ask us to return to pray for him, the first time he -had ever made a request for spiritual help.</p> - -<p>From Taungs I proceeded to the historic station of Kuruman, -accomplishing the journey of 143 miles by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> cart, rail, motor-car and -ox-waggon. The contrast in the modes of travel is illustrated by the -fact that the first seventy-seven miles occupied five hours, and the -remaining sixty-six miles—which were travelled by ox-waggon—occupied -three nights and two days. This journey helped to bring home the -sparseness of the population. On Christmas Eve I travelled from early -morning till late at night in the ox-waggon without seeing a single -human habitation, or a single human being, except those who were -accompanying me, and this not in the recesses of Central Africa but in -British Bechuanaland, which is part of the Cape Province. I travelled -in a new waggon recently made by the boys at Lovedale for the Kuruman -station. It was drawn by fourteen oxen, kindly provided by the Church -at Kuruman, with two supernumeraries in reserve in case of accidents. -As travelling by ox-waggon is rapidly becoming a thing of the past, -it is worth while attempting a short description of the journey. The -waggon in which I travelled, although a new one, had no springs. -The road was of a most primitive description, although the main -thoroughfare between two important centres of population. The jolting -and bumping defy description. The speed is nearly two miles an hour -if all goes well. The discomfort of travelling is somewhat mitigated -by the “cartel”—a wooden frame hung within the waggon by very short -chains of three links. Across the frame are stretched “rims” or strips -of undressed ox-hide about a quarter of an inch broad. When the waggon -is at rest this makes a very comfortable bed, far more so than some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> -of the beds of my experience in China, such as the boards of a Chinese -chapel vestry, or the planks of a Chinese boat.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img003"> -<img src="images/003.jpg" class="w50" alt="Kuruman Mission House, built by Moffat and Hamilton"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]                      [<i>Mrs. Hawkins.</i> -<br><span class="smcap">Kuruman Mission House, built by Moffat and Hamilton.</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img004"> -<img src="images/004.jpg" class="w50" alt="The New Kuruman Waggon, with Mr. and Mrs. J. Tom Brown"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]                        [<i>Neville Jones.</i> -<br><span class="smcap">The New Kuruman Waggon, with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. J. Tom Brown.</span></p> - - -<p>The oxen are outspanned about three times a day at places where there -is water, or where they are likely to find some grass. No reins are -used in driving, but the oxen are controlled by a very long whip which -is used with great dexterity either by the driver from the front of the -waggon or by his assistant walking alongside the oxen. These two men -also act as cooks. A Christmas Day spent in these conditions will live -in the memory.</p> - -<p>The stay at Kuruman was a delightful experience. This place is a -veritable oasis in the desert with a perennial water supply from the -Kuruman river, which issues from a place called “The Fountain” in the -Kuruman township three miles away from the Mission station. Thence in -summer and winter, in flood and in drought, flows 4,000,000 gallons -of water a day. By means of water-furrows, constructed by the early -missionaries, the dry and thirsty land is converted into a paradise of -green. The trees in the garden are a constant delight.</p> - -<p>I stayed in the Mission House built by Robert Moffat and Robert -Hamilton eighty years ago. The whole place is rich with associations. -It was here that David Livingstone courted Mary Moffat. The almond tree -in the garden under which he proposed to her is still flourishing. -Close by is the great Church, built by Moffat, and rich with many a -memory. Next to it is the house where William Ashton lived for many -years, which is now occupied by Mrs. Bevan Wookey, who is in charge -of the excellent Mission School at Kuruman. Behind is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> the school -and the old printing office. The garden is most fertile; oranges, -lemons, quinces, mulberries, pears, apples, plums, apricots, peaches, -pomegranates, walnuts, melons and richly-laden vines, abounding. For -more than a quarter of a century the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> J. Tom Brown has carried on -Missionary work at this station.</p> - -<p>The great fact of the growing Christian Church in South Africa was -abundantly emphasised on the Sunday of my stay at Kuruman. From -outstations far and near the Christians came in for the Communion -Service on the last Sunday of the year and for the New Year’s meetings. -In the morning some 1,500 gathered together for public worship, and -three services were carried on simultaneously. Moffat’s long, and -somewhat dark Church, with its great wooden beams, was filled with a -Sechuana-speaking congregation. The dimness of the Church was relieved -by the orange, yellow, pink and blue of the dresses of the women. In -the spacious school there was a crowded service for the Dutch-speaking -natives and coloured people. In the yard of Mrs. Wookey’s house there -was a service, conducted by an evangelist, for the Damaras, a stalwart -tribe of blackest hue. These people are refugees from German South-West -Africa. In the afternoon all the Church members gathered together in -the Church at a solemn Communion Service. A stranger will not soon -forget the impressive quietness and reverence of the service as the -bare-footed deacons moved noiselessly along the serried ranks of the -great black crowd that was present.</p> - -<p>The meetings on the following day were further evidence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> of the -growing Church. A large gathering of Church members was held at -which discussions took place on several subjects quite familiar to -the Home Churches, many Natives joining in with great intelligence -and earnestness. The Native Pastor at Kuruman, the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> Maphakela -Lekalaka, an eloquent preacher, a capable minister, and a master of -metaphor—known as the “Joseph Parker of Bechuanaland”—superintended -the work of the station with ability and success during the absence of -the Missionary on furlough.</p> - -<p>The journey back to Vryburg was made in an old ox-waggon drawn -by fourteen oxen kindly lent by the Church at one of the Kuruman -outstations. I travelled back <i>via</i> Motito, which has pathetic -associations. In a tiny grave-yard there are buried two or three -missionary children. There is also a grave which recalls a grim -tragedy,—that of Jean Fredoux, a son-in-law of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Moffat, and a -missionary of the Paris Evangelical Missionary Society, which was -formerly at work there. It was in 1865 that he met his death. A -“depraved European” (to quote from the inscription on the gravestone) -attacked his wife in his absence. The Native Christians defended her -and made him prisoner, intending to send him to Kuruman for trial. Next -day they were afraid they might get into trouble for arresting a white -man and they let him go. He escaped in his waggon to the place where -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Fredoux was, and the Natives followed and told the latter what had -happened. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Fredoux went to speak to the man, who retreated inside -his waggon. Then followed an explosion of gunpowder,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> which blew the -waggon, the “depraved European,” <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Fredoux and all the Natives to -pieces.</p> - -<p>At the conclusion of the journey from Kuruman I paid a short visit -to Tiger Kloof and then proceeded north to visit the Matebeleland -stations, in what is now known as Southern Rhodesia, taking three days’ -holiday to see the wonderful Victoria Falls and places of interest in -Bulawayo and the neighbourhood. Every Britisher naturally associates -Rhodesia with the name and work of Cecil Rhodes. His statue stands in -a commanding position in Bulawayo. His grave in the rocky fastness of -the Matopo Hills is an impressive monument to his memory. All round are -immense blocks of granite piled up in fantastic shapes. Four groups of -these granite boulders almost completely enclose a rocky surface about -30 yards square, in the centre of which there is a large untrimmed -block of granite lying on the ground. On the top of this is a sheet of -bronze about 10 feet by 4 feet and 2 inches thick, on which are deeply -cut these words:—</p> - -<p class="center"> -“HERE LIE THE<br> -REMAINS OF<br> -CECIL JOHN RHODES.”<br> -</p> - -<p>There is no date. Close by on the slope of the hill there is a white -marble rectangular monument, with bronze panels, commemorating Major -Wilson and thirty-four men who laid down their lives in one of the -Matebeleland wars. The inscription reads:</p> - -<p class="center">“TO BRAVE MEN.” -</p> - -<p>Few people, perhaps, realise what Rhodesia owes to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> the lives and -labours of L. M. S. Missionaries. When Cecil Rhodes was a youth of -twenty <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm was establishing the Mission Station at Hope Fountain, -10 miles away from the present town of Bulawayo, which was then -non-existent. Rhodes was always ready to acknowledge the value of -the services rendered by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm in his early pioneering days in -the country which afterwards was named Southern Rhodesia. He was a -constant visitor to Hope Fountain, and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm often took part in -his negotiations with Lobenguela, the blood-thirsty Matebele king. -John Smith Moffat, the son of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Moffat, at one time an L. M. S. -Missionary, afterwards for many years a Government official, and -always the friend of the Natives, played an important part in the -establishment of British rule in Rhodesia. John Mackenzie, too, did a -great work in this direction, and was ever a stalwart champion of the -rights of the Natives.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm drove me from Bulawayo to Hope Fountain in a cart drawn by -four mules, the two leaders rejoicing in the names of “Bella” and -“Donna.” At Hope Fountain the Society holds for the benefit of the -Natives a farm upon which some 500 people are living. In Southern -Rhodesia, outside the towns, it is very difficult, if not impossible, -to carry on missionary work except on such farms or in Native -Reserves. Throughout the country farms are being rapidly taken up -by white farmers, and the Natives are steadily and inevitably being -driven off the lands which they previously occupied into the great -Native Reserves provided for them by the Government.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> Hope Fountain -is the centre of some thirteen outstations, most of which are under -the charge of resident evangelists. These men and many of the Native -Christians came into the head-station to meet me. These small Churches -form another example of the growing Native Christian Church of South -Africa. The principles of self-support have been inculcated with such -success that they raise for the support of their own Christian work a -sum considerably in excess of that raised at any other station of the -Society in the sub-continent.</p> - -<p>At Hope Fountain, as in so many places in the Mission Field, one is -reminded of the great and good men who have given their lives to the -work in days gone by. In the cemetery there David Carnegie is buried, -and his white stone tomb can be seen from the Mission House across the -valley. His widow and family live at a house on the road between Hope -Fountain and Bulawayo.</p> - -<p>The next week of my travel was devoted to exploring one of the great -Native Reserves above referred to. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm drove me from Bulawayo to -Inyati, the most northern station of the Society in South Africa, a -journey of forty-five miles. Thence, accompanied by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Cullen Reed and -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> R. Lanning, the Native Commissioner, I paid a visit to the Shangani -Reserve, which comprises a large tract of country situated about midway -between Bulawayo and the Zambesi. This Reserve has been set apart by -the authorities for the accommodation of Natives who have been driven -off the land by the gradual settlement of white farmers. The expedition -involved<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> a cart journey over rough country of some 220 miles, some of -it through virgin tropical forest across which the road consisted of -little more than a track. For seven nights I slept on the ground near -the great fires which were necessary to keep off lions and other beasts -of prey. The experience was a delightful one in spite of a too abundant -insect life which often proved troublesome. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Lanning has a unique -knowledge of the country and his experience of travel on the veldt -added greatly to the comfort and the pleasure of the journey. Moreover, -he is a keen hunter and kept the larder well supplied with fresh meat. -The cart was drawn by six mules and we were accompanied by another cart -which conveyed the Native servants, the luggage and the camp equipment. -The interest of the journey was enhanced by meetings with Native chiefs -and headmen at different places. They may be typified in the person of -Tjakalisa, Lobenguela’s third son, a fine specimen of the human race, -standing over six feet high and every inch of him an aristocrat.</p> - -<p>Clad in a vest and a short leather apron and some wire bracelets, he -looked like the son of a king. Years ago he was nearly burnt to death -in a tree in which he had taken refuge from a bush fire. David Carnegie -treated him and saved his life. On another occasion he was out hunting -with his father. His cartridges were several sizes too small for his -gun. As fast as he put them in at the breech they fell out at the -muzzle. Lobenguela insisted that he was bewitched, and this opinion was -apparently confirmed when, on his shooting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> expedition, his horse took -fright and threw him, breaking his leg into splinters. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm came to -the rescue and effected a complete cure.</p> - -<p>Nowadays Tjakalisa has settled down in the Shangani as a farmer on a -large scale. He has been known to realise as much as £600 at one time -on the sale of his produce. He came to discuss with us the question -of the settlement of a resident missionary. He was accompanied by -a fine old chief, Sivalo, who still wears one of the old Matebele -iron circlets on the top of his head. I shall not soon forget the -long morning spent in the blazing sun—in “the splendour, shadowless -and broad,” of a South African midsummer. Tjakalisa and Sivalo were -attended by a score of headmen. They were eloquent in praise of their -new country, which had not suffered from the terrible drought which has -been afflicting so much of the sub-continent. They realise the benefits -of elementary education and promised to support a school and to build a -house for a teacher. They were filled with enthusiasm for the future of -this promised land.</p> - -<p>Later on the same night I was lying on my bed, consisting of leaves and -grass and a rug, under the stars which were soon to be extinguished by -the brilliant light of a South African full moon. A few yards away our -black servants were sitting around the camp-fire. One of these was a -Basuto who had passed some of his life in prison and was now a servant -in the mission. Another was a black, curly-headed herd-boy from one of -our mission stations. With them were some naked Matebele.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> Before I -slept I heard the strains of a hymn in the native language, sung to a -well-known tune. It was:</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Jesus, still lead on,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Till our rest be won;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, although the way be cheerless,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We will follow, calm and fearless;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Guide us by Thy hand</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">To our Fatherland.</span><br> -</p> - -<p>I fell asleep to dream of the African church of the future in this new -fatherland of their race.</p> - -<p>Already under the steady pressure of white settlement large numbers -of Natives have been driven into this Reserve and month after month -there are fresh arrivals. In the old days the L. M. S. was ever to the -front as the pioneer Society in the evangelization of South Africa. In -these days it is looking forward to establishing a new mission station -in this Reserve, unless prevented by the great deficiency and the -lukewarmness of the Home Churches.</p> - -<p>From Shangani I returned to Inyati, the station where <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Bowen Rees -has laboured so long and faithfully. He was away on furlough at the -time of my visit. During my stay there I was reminded of some of the -minor inconveniences—not to say dangers—of a missionary’s life. One -evening while we were sitting on the verandah a snake paid us a visit, -while the next day a cobra was caught in the woodstack close at hand.</p> - -<p>I inspected the school and attended a large gathering in the Church of -Christians from Inyati and its outstations. Most of the adults squatted -on the floor with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> their families around them. The naked babies tumbled -over each other in their playful frolics, or slept on their mothers’ -backs while I was trying to speak to their parents.</p> - -<p>From Inyati <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Helm drove me to Insiza, formerly a station of the -Society. On the following morning I left at 4 a.m. by train for -Bulawayo, where I proceeded to Marula Tank Siding <i>en route</i> -for the new Arthington station at Tjimali, where our Missionary, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Whiteside, met me. A drive of twenty miles in the mule cart brought us -to the Mission House, which is beautifully situated in the midst of -granite kopjes which form the western spur of the Matopo Hills. The -view is magnificent. The garden terminates in a forbidding precipice -some hundreds of feet deep. On one side of the house is a lofty -rocky hill which commands a wide stretch of mountainous country in -all directions with intervening valleys, and plains and hills. There -are, however, drawbacks to Tjimali as a residence. The baboons are -very numerous in the immediate neighbourhood and go about in herds -of forty or fifty and rob the gardens in the day time. The wild cats -steal the chickens at night. The eagles carry off the lambs, and the -insect life is super-abundant. Tjimali is the Society’s newest station -in Matebeleland and the work is in its early stages. There are ten -outstations, at each of which there is a native teacher who conducts -school during the week and acts as pastor-evangelist on Sundays, -preaching and holding classes for inquirers. The work is bright with -promise and is reaching the miners who are settling in the outskirts of -the district.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span></p> - -<p>From Tjimali I journeyed by cart to Dombodema, a long day’s drive -of fifty-eight miles. My experience that day illustrates one of the -disadvantages of the new mode of travel in South Africa. I had been -driven to the Marula Siding to catch the train for Plumtree, the -station for Dombodema. On arrival there I found that on the previous -day the time for the starting of the train had been put forward four -hours without any notice whatever to the public or even the station -master, and hence there was nothing for it but to drive the whole -distance. On the way I was met by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Cullen Reed, the Dombodema -missionary, who has been at work there since the foundation of the -station in 1895. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Reed has to carry on his work in three languages -and has to itinerate a parish of 3,000 square miles inhabited by 15,000 -people. On each side of the Mission station are low picturesque kopjes. -The day before I arrived <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Reed had killed a snake fifteen feet long -in the garden.</p> - -<p>Preachers, teachers and Christian workers had come in from the -outstations for the meeting. Three of them had travelled all the -way from Nekati, a distance of 150 miles. At this place Segkome -Khama lives. He is the eldest son of Khama, the famous Chief of the -Bamangwato tribe. For the Sunday service the Church was crowded, the -congregation sitting on the floor, and some scores more finding seats -under the shadow of a great fig tree outside the door. The Service was -conducted in two languages. In the afternoon an impressive Communion -Service was held.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span></p> - -<p>On leaving Dombodema I proceeded south to Serowe, spending two days -on the way at the British Residency, Francistown, as the guest of -Major Daniel, the Assistant Commissioner for the Northern half of -the Bechuanaland Protectorate. My visit to Serowe was one of my most -interesting experiences in South Africa. Leaving Phalapye Road railway -station at 3.20 a.m. in the faint light of the waning moon I started -on the cart ride of thirty-five miles to Serowe. The cart was drawn -by eight fine mules kindly put at my disposal by the Government. It -was the dustiest ride I have ever experienced, in many places the road -being several inches deep in sand and dust. The dust of the Plain of -Chihli in North China makes an impression on the memory which it is not -easy to forget, but the drive to Serowe was a more trying experience, -because eight galloping mules travel much faster than the sorry beasts -which draw the Peking carts of North China. About three miles from -Serowe we saw a cloud of dust ahead and there emerged from it a company -of horsemen whom Khama had sent to escort me. A mile further on the -whole veldt seemed to be enveloped in a mighty dust-storm. When it -reached us we stopped. Khama had come in person with some hundreds of -horsemen. The old Chief sprang from his saddle like a man of 26 rather -than a man of 76. He joined me in the cart and we renewed our drive. -The horsemen galloped before and behind and on either side. The drivers -thrashed their mules with two whips to force them to keep pace with -the horsemen. A regular stampede ensued. Fresh detachments of Natives, -all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> mounted on fine steeds, joined the cavalcade every two or three -minutes. The Chief thoroughly enjoyed the fun and laughed heartily -as the horses of the various members of our escort kept cannonading -against one another in the mad rush.</p> - -<p>Serowe, the largest Native town in South Africa, contains about 26,000 -inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Jennings, the L. M. S. -missionary, has carried on work there for upwards of ten years. It is -a typical Bechuana town, having no streets but consisting of numerous -collections of native huts within fenced kraals. The position of the -Mission House is particularly striking, lying as it does between three -great piles of rocks.</p> - -<p>The town owes much of its importance to the fact that it is Khama’s -capital. This old Chief—the Jubilee of whose baptism was celebrated -two years ago—is the most distinguished Native of South Africa. -He is undoubtedly one of the busiest men in the world. He spends -laborious days in the Kgotla—the great open-air meeting place of the -tribe—dealing with all sorts of questions affecting his people, and -acting as judge. Nothing concerning the life of the tribe is too minute -for his careful attention. He knows all that happens and rules his -people with a firm hand, exercising a benevolent despotism.</p> - -<p>In a very true sense Khama is head of the Church as well as head of -the State. He is most regular in his attendance at Sunday services and -religious meetings. Under his leadership his people have just built -a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span> magnificent stone Church, on the foundation stone of which are -inscribed these words:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“<span class="smcap">This Church was Erected to the Glory of God</span></span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">by Chief Khama and the Bamangwato Tribe.</span>”</span><br> -</p> - -<p>Two great meetings in the Kgotla will live in my memory. At day-break -on the morning after my arrival I attended a prayer meeting for rain. -These meetings had been held for weeks. About 800 men and women were -present in almost equal proportions. Most of the women sat upon the -ground and the men on low chairs or stools which they brought with -them. Khama sat on a deck chair under the shadow of a tree in the -middle of one of the sides of the oval into which the people had -grouped themselves. His young wife sat on his left hand. There was -singing, reading and prayer. The Chief himself led the meeting in the -final prayer, which lasted about five minutes. I am told he compared -his country to a wilderness where there was no river, and his people to -a lonely dog in the desert crying for water.</p> - -<p>Another memorable meeting in the Kgotla was the Sunday morning service. -Between 4,000 and 5,000 people assembled at 7 a.m., most of the men -sitting on the right and the women on the left. The scene was a most -picturesque one. The coloured head-dresses of the women were brilliant -in the morning sunshine. Khama and his wife were present. A deacon -with a fine voice led the singing, which was very hearty, and was -unaccompanied by any instrument.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span></p> - -<p>Many other gatherings were held during my visit to Serowe. I met -deacons, Church members, catechumens, inquirers, Sunday School -teachers, and other Christian workers. In several conversations -with the Chief I found him to be deeply interested in Christian -work in other parts of the world. He has the high spirits of a boy -and told many yarns of hunting experiences. He had some interesting -reminiscences of his meetings with David Livingstone to narrate. He -told me that he remembered Livingstone visiting his father, Segkome, on -three occasions. On the first and second of these visits Livingstone -was riding on a hornless ox. On the third occasion he was travelling -in an ox-waggon and came to Shoshong. “After that,” Khama added, “he -went beyond the Zambesi, and I never saw him again.” Of his own accord -he told me of Livingstone’s encounter with the lion, and described the -damage to the arm and told me he remembered hearing of the incident at -the time.</p> - -<p>Khama has two houses, one a spacious and well-built native hut, where -he lives with his wife, Semane, who was trained at the L. M. S. School, -and is a fine specimen of a Native Christian woman. She takes great -interest in the work and often visits the schools and is a regular -attendant at the services in the Kgotla. Khama’s other residence is a -European house, brick-built, with a verandah in front and containing -four rooms. I visited him there, and was received in his sitting-room, -which is about 18 feet square. The floor was covered with linoleum -upon which was a Turkey carpet. There<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> were two tables—one a large -old-fashioned drawing-room table, on which stood a photograph of Earl -Selborne in a silver frame and two other photographs, and the other a -light folding table on which was a richly framed autograph photograph -of Queen Victoria, which she had given to the Chief when he was in -England in 1895. On this table also stood a very large blue enamel -milk-pail full of milk and a bottle of vinegar. In the corner was an -Address from the Serowe Chamber of Commerce on the occasion of the -Jubilee of his baptism. On the walls were portraits of the late King -Edward, Queen Alexandra, King George and other Royalties. He showed -me a gold hunter watch he was wearing, which contained an inscription -recording that it was presented to him by the Duke and Duchess of -Connaught. He was very interested in political matters and was most -anxious about the future of his people, being apprehensive that the -Protectorate might one day be incorporated in the South Africa Union, -and keenly desirous of preventing the occurrence of anything in the -nature of such a catastrophe, as he deems it would be.</p> - -<p>Khama is a man of great physical strength. A week or two before I saw -him he had ridden sixty miles to Shoshong on horse-back in a single -day, and after a day or two’s stay had made the return journey in the -same way. He exercises a tremendous influence over the tribe, and in -recent years has put a stop to the manufacture and drinking of Native -beer. The story is told of him that some time ago a man who had tried -to bewitch him died of fright, when Khama reminded him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> that he was the -son of the greatest of witch doctors, Segkome, and that he could kill -him if he wished to do so.</p> - -<p>My week’s intercourse with Khama made two impressions on my mind. The -first is that he is a Christian gentleman, and the second is that he is -one of the most cautious and astute men I have ever met in my life. He -has a remarkable mind, the working of which it is not always easy to -understand, but of his desire to spread the light amongst the people -over whom he rules with a rod of iron there cannot be a shadow of doubt.</p> - -<p>Of the growing Church among the Bamangwato there are many manifest -signs. Apart from the salaries of the missionaries and a small -grant to keep the Mission House in repair, the work at Serowe is -self-supporting. Moreover, the Church is a Missionary Church, and is -seeking to pass on the light to others. For many years it has done much -to sustain the work for God at Lake Ngami, which is the Mission field -of the Bamangwato Church. It sends out its own missionaries. For twenty -years Shomolekae has been the devoted and much loved evangelist of the -far-away Lake Ngami district and has bravely held the fort in spite of -loneliness and isolation and repeated attacks of fever. He has now been -joined by Andrew Kgasi, who was trained at Tiger Kloof, and volunteered -for service at the Lake.</p> - -<p>From Serowe I travelled to Shoshong, being driven to Phalapye Road -Station by the Acting-Magistrate in the Government mule cart. -Proceeding south by railway to Mahalapye I was there met by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Lloyd, -the Shoshong<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> missionary, with his ox-waggon. We travelled all night -and reached Shoshong at mid-day. This place in the old days was the -capital of the Bamangwato tribe. It was here that Segkome, Khama’s -father, ruled and Khama himself was baptised fifty-two years ago. Here -David Livingstone preached and practised in the early forties, and -later on John Mackenzie, Roger Price and J. D. Hepburn laboured. But -its glory departed when in 1886 Khama moved his capital to Phalapye.</p> - -<p>Shoshong is picturesquely situated in a wide plain with mountains on -all sides, but there are few traces of its former greatness. The site -of the old town is covered with bush. The present town consists of -three large kraals under three local chiefs or head-men, one of whom -is Khamane, Khama’s brother, and another Tshwene, Khama’s son-in-law. -At the time of my visit Shoshong was experiencing the terrible effects -of the prolonged drought. The only water supply was two miles away in -the river bed, over one of the roughest paths I have ever traversed. -Between the boulders over the stones and across the rocks the narrow -serpentine track had been worn quite smooth by the long procession of -women walking up and down day by day to fetch water from holes dug in -the bed of the river. One of the vivid impressions of travel in these -parts is that of a string of women carrying very heavy clay pots of -water balanced on their heads, climbing over rocks and making their way -through thorn bushes, and never spilling a drop of the water. These -great pots are 18 inches across in the broadest part and one foot high, -and when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> filled are very heavy. I tried to lift one on to my head -but entirely failed. The women help each other to hoist them and they -do this very cleverly and quickly. A man attempted to help a woman to -replace on her head the pot I had tried to lift. The woman said “No! -you are no good, you are only a man! You cannot do it.” An old woman of -sixty came to the rescue and between them they succeeded in replacing -the pot upon the head of its bearer.</p> - -<p>Shoshong is the centre of a large district comprising thirty-nine -outstations, some of which, however, are little more than preaching -stations. The missionary visits them from time to time. There are only -seven schools in the district.</p> - -<p>On my return journey to the railway I had an experience of travel which -was much more common formerly, when the ox-waggon was the only means of -conveyance, than to-day, when its place has been largely taken by carts -and trains. We left Shoshong in the waggon at 10 p.m. The herd-boy had -been unable to find two of the best oxen, and we started with a span of -twelve, at least two of which were very poor specimens. In the first -two miles we had to stop a score of times. Finally, one of the oxen -laid down and refused to move. We left this creature and its fellow -behind, and proceeded with ten oxen only. The heavy thunderstorm of the -previous day had left water behind it on the road and our progress was -slow. Between five and six on the following morning I was wakened by a -tremendous banging and found one of the drivers standing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> on the front -seat of the waggon chopping off a branch of a tree which barred our -way. Fifty yards further on, owing to careless driving and tired oxen, -the wheels on one side of the waggon got lodged in a deep rut full of -water and mud. I got up to find the waggon at an angle of forty-five -degrees and in imminent danger of overturning. Dressing hurriedly and -getting out of the waggon I found the boys had unyoked the oxen and -fastened them on to the back in the vain hope that they might thus pull -it out of the rut backwards. A futile effort was then made to dig out -the two wheels, but it was impossible to move the waggon. The boy went -off post-haste to Bonwapitse, two miles away, to borrow oxen and men -from the Chief to extricate us. In two hours twenty men, including the -Chief’s son, and ten of the most powerful oxen I have ever seen, came -to our rescue. A chain was fastened round the back axle and in less -time than it takes to describe the incident the waggon was dragged -out of the rut. The new oxen, however, were not content with their -performance, but rushed off, dragging the waggon backwards, and soon -two considerable trees were levelled to the ground in the stampede. -Fortunately, the oxen took a semi-circular course, and the great trees -and dense bush checked them in their mad career, but not before some -damage had been done and the interior of the waggon half-filled with -broken branches of trees.</p> - -<p>It was Sunday morning. On reaching Bonwapitse we held a Service under -the trees, which was attended by the Chief and his wife and about 100 -people. This was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> one of the many open-air services which will live in -the memory. The trees afforded little shade. The almost vertical rays -of the South Africa summer sun beat down with merciless severity upon -the people gathered together as they joined in singing their hymns and -listened with great attention to the words spoken to them, and took -part with great devoutness in the prayers which were offered.</p> - -<p>I proceeded by railway to Gaberones, arriving there between two and -three in the morning. Alighting from the train I waited in the darkness -until two men appeared with a lantern to conduct me to the Government -waggon which <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ellenberger had kindly sent. We in-spanned early -in the morning and I was taken to the Residency three miles away, -where a warm welcome awaited me. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ellenberger is the Assistant -Commissioner for the Southern portion of the Protectorate. He is the -son of a missionary of the Paris Missionary Society who laboured in -Basutoland, and his wife is the daughter of the well-known <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Casalis -of the same Society. I experienced from them the same kindness which -was always extended to me by the Government officials, and my two days’ -stay at the Residency was altogether delightful. They kindly drove me -in the Government cart to Khumakwane, where we found the waggon which -had conveyed my luggage on the previous day, awaiting us. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Haydon -Lewis, the missionary from Molepolole, met us there with his waggon. -Afterwards another open-air service was held under a great tree, in the -course of which <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ellenberger spoke to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> people in Sechuana, and -a business interview followed with the neighbouring Chief, at whose -village the Mission Chapel had been burnt some time before at the -instigation of a “false prophet.”</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ellenberger drove us to Kolobeng, where we saw the ruins of the -house which Livingstone had built seventy years before, and which was -destroyed during his absence by the Boers. The outline of the house -was quite distinct, and on one side the walls are still standing about -7 feet high. The bricks were of the roughest description, and the -marvel is that they have stood the storms of seventy years without -disappearing altogether. In Livingstone’s day there was a large town -here, but now not a hut is to be seen owing to tribal migration. The -Kolobeng river itself has almost disappeared, but its course is clearly -marked by a great line of reeds and rushes.</p> - -<p>I met two old men who remembered Livingstone, and gave me some details -of his personal appearance. One of them as a boy was doctored by him, -the other still cultivates Livingstone’s garden—a small patch near -the ruins, where mealies are grown. Close by are the remains of an old -Dispensary, and a little further off are two nameless graves. It was -a scene of desolation, nature having completely re-asserted herself, -and obliterated all traces of the former town. But from the site there -was a fine view of undulating veldt and valley and mountain, and one -thought with gratitude of the great man who had “passed like light -across the darkened land”—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span></p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“To lift the sombre fringes of the Night</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To open lands long darkened to the Light,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To heal grim wounds, to give the blind new sight,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Right mightily wrought he.”</span><br> -</p> - -<p>Next day I left for Molepolole with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Haydon Lewis. This town, where -missionary work has been carried on since 1866, is the capital of -the Bakwena tribe. In the afternoon there was a great gathering of -school children for their annual sports. Just after I had distributed -the prizes a youth galloped up on a bare-backed horse, scattering -the children in all directions. He was the Chief’s son and has the -reputation of being a graceless young rascal, constantly under the -influence of drink and a veritable vagabond in the tribe. He rejoices -in the name of Ralph Wardlaw Thompson Sebele, having been born about -the time when <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Thompson was last in Molepolole, and receiving at -baptism the honoured name to which he is anything but a credit.</p> - -<p>During my visit I inspected the schools and met the Church members -and congregation, and was present at a crowded lantern service in the -Church. In spite of great difficulties the evangelistic work is being -carried on with success by means of twenty-eight native preachers -trained on the station. This tribe has set an example to the other -Bechuanaland tribes by levying a school tax of 2/-per annum upon all -tax-payers, thus providing ample funds for educational purposes. -Except for the salary of the missionaries and an annual grant for -itineration the work at this station is self-supporting, and the Church -is realising the duties of providing for its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> own work, of governing -itself and of spreading the Gospel in the outlying parts. Its Mission -field is the North central part of the Khalahari Desert which adjoins -the territory of the tribe on the west. At Molepolole, as well as at -other stations, the missionary is also the doctor. A considerable -portion of each morning, when he is at home, is spent in examining -patients and dispensing medicines. He is ably seconded by his wife, who -was a trained nurse. Thus the light is spread not only by the preaching -of the Gospel and the teaching in the schools, but also by the healing -of the sick. So our missionaries are found following in the footsteps -of the Great Physician.</p> - -<p>From Molepolole I travelled south in the ox-waggon to Mahatelo on my -way to Kanye. Early next morning I was met at Gamoshupa by a cart -and four mules, kindly sent for me by Seapapico, the Chief of the -Bangwaketsi tribe. After a drive through beautiful scenery I reached -Kanye, a town of 10,000 inhabitants, and the capital of the tribe, in -the afternoon. I spent the greater part of a week at this station, -where missionary work has been carried on under the superintendence -of a resident missionary for forty years, and where <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. -Howard Williams were labouring. While this book is passing through -the press a cablegram has been received, conveying the sad news that -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Williams has been called to the higher service, after a devoted -missionary life of well-nigh thirty years. The increasing activities -of a growing Church of nearly 700 members were apparent in the town -itself and in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> the numerous outstations in the district. On the Sunday -the spacious Church, which was provided by the tribe and cost £3,000 -apart from the bricks, and contains a fine organ, the gift of the late -Chief Bathoen, was packed to its utmost capacity, many having come in -from the outstations. The women’s head-dresses, which were of all the -colours of the rainbow, were in striking contrast to the black heads -of the men. After the service thirty-four adults were baptised, and -in the afternoon a Communion Service was held, at which 550 Church -members gathered round the table of our Lord. On the following days I -attended meetings of Church members and Christian workers and of women, -inspected the schools, and had interviews with some of the leading men.</p> - -<p>The present Chief, Seapapico, is a young man of twenty-six, and the son -of Bathoen, who accompanied Khama to England in 1895. The young man was -educated at Lovedale, and speaks English well, and was a great support -to the missionary, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Howard Williams. His mother, Bathoen’s widow, is -a fine Christian woman and gives great assistance to Mrs. Williams in -her work amongst the women of the tribe. She was the favourite daughter -of Sechele, the old Chief of the Bakwena tribe. When she was a girl she -had a quarrel with a friend and destroyed her eyesight with a thorn. -Sechele had one of his daughter’s eyes put out, on the principle of “an -eye for an eye,” and she bears the mark of this parental correction to -this day.</p> - -<p>From Kanye I was driven in the Chief’s cart to the railway at Lobatsi, -whence on the following day I was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> escorted by the native ordained -minister, Roger K. Mokadi, to his station at Maanwane, over the -Transvaal border. After a service in the Church and a visit to Roger’s -kraal, a hot tramp under a fierce sun brought us at Mabotsa to the -ruins of the old Mission house built by Livingstone and Edwards. Some -of the walls were standing seven or eight feet high, but the interior -was overgrown with bush. Close by is the hill where Livingstone had -his famous encounter with the lion, and near at hand an old native -Christian lives who was with Livingstone at the time. A drive through -Linokani, where the German Lutherans are carrying on a fine piece of -missionary work, brought me to Zeerust and next day by means of the -train I reached Johannesburg. It does not fall within the scope of -this book to describe this wonderful city, the creation of the last -twenty-five years. It is by far the largest business town in South -Africa and is the centre of the greatest gold producing mines in the -world. Here I experienced the utmost kindness from members of the -Congregational Church and met my colleague, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Houghton, with whom -I was to travel for the next nine months. Nor must I stay to refer -to a deeply interesting visit to Pretoria. At these great centres -the evidence of the appalling racial conflict, which constitutes the -greatest problem confronting the Christian Church in South Africa -to-day, was abundantly apparent.</p> - -<p>A few days later I travelled to Mafeking, for ever immortalised for -its heroic defence during the Boer war, to see Colonel Panzera, the -Resident Commissioner for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> the Bechuanaland Protectorate, and thence -proceeded to Tiger Kloof to meet all the Society’s South African -missionaries for consultation upon the work and its problems.</p> - -<p>Throughout my journeys amongst the Churches in Bechuanaland and -Matebeleland there were many signs of the growing power and promise of -the Native South African Church. That Church, planted first by Moffat -and his colleagues at Kuruman, and carried north by Livingstone and -his successors until it has well-nigh reached the Zambesi, has had a -chequered career, but its progress has been unmistakably onward and -upward. It has been tried and purified by the struggles of the past, -and to-day its “far-flung battle line” is making a steady advance -against the forces of superstition and heathenism with which it is -confronted.</p> - -<p>“Climbing through darkness up to God,” the members of that Church -are bravely carrying “the wonder and the glory of the light” into -“the darkness and the sorrow of the night” in which so many of their -fellow-countrymen are still enshrouded. Through the open doors “the -true Light, which lighteth every man coming into the world,” is pouring -its ever-brightening rays.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III<br><span class="small">Tiger Kloof—“A Lamp Shining in a Dark Place”</span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From North, and South, and East, and West</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They come.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">John Oxenham.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>The crown of the work of the L. M. S. in South Africa is the Tiger -Kloof Native Institution. Ten years ago the site on which its buildings -now stand was bare veldt. To-day it is a centre of light for all the -L. M. S. work in South Africa. Situated on the Cape-to-Cairo Railway, -767 miles north of Cape Town, the Institution buildings, which -challenge the attention of every passing traveller, are a monument to -the princely munificence of that great missionary-hearted man Robert -Arthington of Leeds, to the energy, ability, devotion and far-seeing -statesmanship of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> W. C. Willoughby, and to what can be -accomplished by the South African boys trained in the Institution, who -have erected most of the buildings which are now so notable a feature -of the landscape.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span></p> - -<p>It is to Tiger Kloof that the brightest and best boys, who have -received their early training at the Mission stations of the Society in -South Africa, are sent to complete their education. It is from Tiger -Kloof that the teachers and preachers, who are to be God’s instruments -in building up the growing Native Church, proceed after receiving -training to fit them for their work. Tiger Kloof is the strategic -centre of the Society’s work in South Africa. In the coming days it -will also be the training place for teachers and preachers connected -with the Central Africa Mission.</p> - -<p>Within the limits of this sketch it is impossible to describe the -manifold activities of this great Institution. I visited it on three -occasions, and altogether spent upwards of a month there, and I had -many opportunities of seeing and learning to appreciate the great work -which is carried on. At the present time there are nearly 200 students -in residence.</p> - -<p>On the 8th March, 1904, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Willoughby and his wife outspanned their -waggon, and that a borrowed one, on the veldt at the corner of a large -farm which the Society had previously bought. The word “farm” conveys -a false impression. It was an unfenced wilderness covered with stone -and low bush. The foundation stone of the Institution was laid in -1905 by Earl Selborne, the Governor of Cape Colony. Year after year -buildings have been added, and the Institution now comprises a fine -dining-hall with a clock tower, six dormitories, commodious school and -class rooms, carpenters’ and tailors’ shops and work-rooms, offices and -residences<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> for the members of the staff, and a series of cottages for -the theological students and their families.</p> - -<p>In the scholastic department the boys are taught the subjects -prescribed by the Cape code. There is an excellent normal school for -the training of teachers. Apprentices are taught masonry, carpentry, -tailoring and office work, and there is a theological department where -the students are trained for the ministry.</p> - -<p>On arrival at Tiger Kloof the visitor to whom the Institution wishes -to show honour is met by the boys in full-dress Sunday uniform and the -Band. As such visitors are not infrequent the sight of the boys at the -Siding, smartly attired in their blue uniforms, and the strains of the -Band help to make known the Institution to the numerous travellers -passing through by train.</p> - -<p>Daily Prayers are held in the Hall at 6.45 a.m. precisely. The English -language is employed and the Mill Hill School Service book is used. -These gatherings for morning prayers are characterised by a quiet -dignity and reverence which is very impressive. The singing is good -and the musical responses are very effectively rendered. The singing -of “Crown Him Lord of all,” to the tune “Diadem,” will not soon be -forgotten by those who have listened to it. After prayers the boys -march out of the Hall and form themselves into companies outside and -proceed to the parade ground for drill. The discipline is perfect. The -work of the Institution has constantly received high praise from the -Government Inspectors, and large Government grants are earned.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img005"> -<img src="images/005.jpg" class="w50" alt="Portion of Tiger Kloof Institution"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]                        [<i>W. C. Willoughby.</i> -<br><span class="smcap">Portion of Tiger Kloof Institution.</span><br> -Right to left: <span class="allsmcap">DORMITORY</span>, <span class="allsmcap">DINING HALL</span>, -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span><span class="allsmcap">PRINCIPAL’S HOUSE BEYOND</span>.</p> - - -<p>The influence of the work there is already being felt throughout the -South Africa Mission. Not only are ordained pastors and certificated -teachers, who have received their training at Tiger Kloof, to be found -at the various stations, but masons and carpenters who have learnt -their trades there, after returning to their homes, occupy themselves -with erecting Churches, schools and houses, and in many cases their -life and example is a blessing to the people amongst whom they live. -In this and other ways Tiger Kloof is making its contribution to the -building up of a strong Christian Church in South Africa, and sending -out Christian youths to spread the light in many a dark place.</p> - -<p>An Institution on similar lines for girls is in course of erection at -Tiger Kloof. When it gets to work the most promising girls from the -different Mission stations will be sent there for higher training. Many -of them will become the wives of the preachers and teachers, and thus -it is hoped will help to build up Christian homes in South Africa, -which will be centres of light in different parts of the field.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> The genesis and development of the great work at Tiger -Kloof is admirably described in the Handbook by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Willoughby, -entitled “Tiger Kloof,” published by the L.M.S. Price, 1s. net; post -free 1s. 2d.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="B-CENTRAL_AFRICA">B.—CENTRAL AFRICA</h2> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV<br><span class="small">The Heart of the Dark Continent</span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Watchman, what of the night?</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Watchman said, The morning cometh.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">Isaiah.</span></span><br> -</p> - -<p class="poetry p2"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The night is far spent and the day is at hand.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap"><abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Paul.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>After four and a-half months spent in South Africa, where the Native -Church has been planted for a century, I proceeded north to Central -Africa, where missionary work is in its early stages and the Native -Church in its infancy. Leaving Tiger Kloof towards the end of March, -I travelled by the Cape-to-Cairo Railway through the Protectorate and -Southern Rhodesia, and was joined by the other member of the Central -African Deputation, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Houghton, at the Victoria Falls. The Railway -took us to Ndola, 1,373 miles north of Tiger Kloof. There we were met -by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Nutter, of Mbereshi, in our Central Africa Mission, and over 100 -native carriers who were to be our companions for many a day to come. -Before attempting any description of travel in Central Africa it will -be well to say something about the country itself.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img006"> -<img src="images/006.jpg" class="w75" alt=">Map of Central Africa, showing L. M. S. Mission -Stations"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap">Map of Central Africa, showing L. M. S. Mission -Stations.</span> -<br>(Kambole should be west, and not south of Kafukula). -</p> - -<p>As late as the middle of last century maps of Africa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> described the -central regions of the Dark Continent as unexplored. The labours -of Livingstone, his contemporaries and successors have revealed to -the peoples of the West a vast area as extensive as Europe which is -somewhat vaguely described as Central Africa. Towards the end of -the century this great expanse of country had been parcelled out -amongst the great Powers of Europe. Internal peace has taken the -place of tribal warfare, and the land has been thrown open to Western -colonization. Foremost amongst the pioneers of civilization has been -the Christian Missionary, and one of the earliest Societies to enter -the field was our own. A remarkable and immediate result of the -travels<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> of Livingstone was the occupation of Central Africa by some -of the missionary organizations of Britain. The work commenced by our -own Society, the Church Missionary Society, the Universities’ Mission -and the Presbyterian Missions was due directly or indirectly to the -influence of that great Missionary explorer—David Livingstone.</p> - -<p>Central Africa exercises a singular fascination on those who visit it. -Its great lakes, its mighty rivers, its boundless forests, its glorious -sunshine, the black races which inhabit it, all combine to make travel -in that region a unique and delightful experience. In our case that -travel was made the more pleasant by the company of one and another of -our missionaries on our journeys, and the great privilege we enjoyed -of fellowship with them and their families in their homes, and the -opportunities afforded us of seeing something of the work which they -are carrying on amongst the people of the land.</p> - -<p>One of the first impressions a traveller receives is that of the -vastness of the territory and the comparative sparseness of the -population. These facts, together with the want of facilities for rapid -travel, constitute serious difficulties in carrying on missionary work.</p> - -<p>My colleague and I were the first Deputation from the Society to -visit Central Africa. As long ago as 1879 the Directors accepted an -offer from the Society’s Foreign Secretary, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Mullens, to visit the -Mission. He proceeded to Zanzibar and started on his journey to Lake -Tanganyika, but died at Chakombe in July<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> of that year and was buried -in the C. M. S. cemetery at Mpwapwa, between Tabora and Dar-es-Salaam. -Since that day conditions of travel and of life in Northern Rhodesia -(which is the part of Central Africa in which the L. M. S. carries on -nearly all its work) have completely changed. No more striking evidence -of the change can be afforded than a comparison between the experiences -of the early missionaries and of their successors, twenty-five years -later. The average term of service for the first ten missionaries -who served in Central Africa was well under three years. The ten -missionaries at present on the field have already to their credit an -average term of service of thirteen years, and the majority of them are -still under forty years of age. Moreover, in the first ten years of the -Mission eleven missionaries died on the field, and six were invalided -home, and (with one exception) did not return. During the last ten -years not a single missionary has died on the field, and no missionary -has retired on account of ill-health.</p> - -<p>It was our good fortune to visit Central Africa during its winter, and -our experience of the climate was altogether delightful. Even during -the hot season the heat is not so extreme as might be expected from -the geographical position of the country. At the Society’s stations -the thermometer seldom, if ever, reaches 100° Fahrenheit during the -hottest season—a point often exceeded further south. Nevertheless, -Central Africa is still a trying place for many people. The liability -to malarial fever, dysentery, and cognate diseases is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> considerable. -Nor must it be forgotten that all our stations are necessarily at a -high altitude above sea level. The lowest of them—Kafukula—is nearly -as high as the top of Snowdon, while all the remaining stations are -between 4,700 and 5,600 feet up, except Mbereshi, the altitude of which -is 3,900 feet. Life at this altitude is often trying to the nerves and -heart, and the strain is all the more severe owing to the impossibility -of securing a substantial change of altitude without great expenditure -of time and money. The distance to the coast is so great, the travel -is so trying, and the cost is so heavy that it is practically -impossible for our missionaries and their families to obtain a complete -change—either as a mid-term furlough or otherwise.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the best indication of the changed conditions of life and the -improved health of the Mission in these later days is afforded by the -splendid health enjoyed by the missionaries’ children. The picture -facing this page speaks for itself.</p> - -<p>But there is an aspect of life in Central Africa which must not be -over-looked, namely its isolation. At only one of our stations is -any other white man in residence. There are less than a dozen white -people—officials and a trader—at Kawambwa, the Government station -twenty miles from Mbereshi, and about a dozen at Abercorn—the -Metropolis, as it is called, of the white people in the Society’s -area—ten miles from Kawimbe.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img007"> -<img src="images/007.jpg" class="w75" alt="Healthy Missionary Children in Central Africa"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]      [<i>Bernard Turner.</i> -<br>Hilda. Gay. Kenneth. Ethel. Dennis. Sylvia. Hope. Monica. Marjorie. -Franklin.<br><span class="smcap">Healthy Missionary Children in Central Africa.</span> -</p> - -<p>The exercise of a little imagination will enable the reader to realise -something of the loneliness of men and women living in a country -where there are so few people of their own race. Moreover, the Mission -stations are widely separated from each other. Mbereshi is five days’ -journey from Mpolokoso, eight days’ journey from Kambole, nine and -a-half days’ journey from Kafukula, and eleven days’ journey from -Kawimbe.</p> - -<p>For the greater part of the three months following our departure from -the railway at Ndola we lived in tents, and travelled through the -great Central African forest, which in fact extended nearly all the -way from Bulawayo, the capital of Southern Rhodesia, to Dar-es-Salaam, -the capital of German East Africa, situated on the east coast of -the Continent, 80 miles south of Zanzibar. Almost the whole of this -country is a plateau from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the -sea. The southern part of this forest is traversed by the Zambesi, -and the western portion is bounded by the Congo, there known as the -Luapula, while situated on the table-land there are the great lakes of -Bangweolo, Mweru and Tanganyika, the two last of which we visited. In -travelling through the forest one day’s journey is very like another, -although each day abounds with a variety of incidents and new sights -and new experiences for one who visits the country for the first time. -A general description of the means and conditions of travel will -suffice.</p> - -<p>We were almost wholly dependent upon native carriers. With the -exception of bicycles and single-wheeled bush-cars there is no wheeled -traffic in Northern Rhodesia. There are practically no roads in our -meaning of that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> term. The travel-routes are native paths—often very -narrow and overgrown. In the long grass, which is a remarkable feature -of the country, the path often cannot be seen, but can only be felt by -the feet. There are no inns or rest-houses. Tents, bedding, cooking -utensils, food, etc., must all be carried everywhere. The minimum -number of carriers required by one person on a short journey is about -twelve if a bicycle is used, or eighteen to twenty if a machila is the -means of conveyance. A machila is a chair slung between two poles and -carried by four men. For longer journeys extra men are needed to carry -supplies, or in case of sickness among the carriers. Should native food -not be easily obtained—as at certain seasons is the case everywhere, -and along many of the main travel-routes, more or less constantly all -the year round—five more men are needed for each week that food has -to be carried. Carriers cost about 1s. 6d. per man per week away from -their homes. The general practice is to pay 1s. a week in cash on -discharge, and the balance in calico, cash, salt or food, weekly in -advance. The speed of travel is, of course, dependent on the ability -of the carriers, and the nature of the country traversed, but it may -be taken as about seventeen or eighteen miles a day, or three miles -an hour, including rests. Sometimes over thirty miles is accomplished -with loads, or even more with a letter only. Our average day’s travel -from Ndola to Mbereshi was just under twenty miles, but on two days we -covered over thirty miles.</p> - -<p>Our experience of Central African travel was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> delightful one. We left -the rail a week or two before the rainy season comes to an end in most -years, and we had been warned that we should probably meet with a good -deal of rain on our way to Mbereshi. We only had two or three showers -the whole way, and with one trifling exception all these fell after we -were in camp. We tasted some of the joys of crossing Central African -swamps, but with the kindly assistance of our carriers, whose backs and -shoulders were always at our service, we were none the worse. Numerous -rivers and streams were crossed in dug-out canoes, on men’s backs and -shoulders, and by means of tree trunks, stones, or bridges made of the -branches of trees. The Luapula (Congo) was crossed in a steel boat.</p> - -<p>On the recommendation of the missionaries on the spot we had provided -ourselves with bush-cars as our means of conveyance after leaving the -railway. A bush-car is a seat fixed over a motor-cycle wheel with -steel tube shafts back and front. It is propelled by two men, whereas -a machila requires four men, and thus a bush-car halves the cost of -carriers. Moreover, it is a much quicker means of conveyance than a -machila. The experiment was entirely justified. Some days we were -enabled to travel upwards of thirty miles without undue fatigue.</p> - -<p>It may be of interest to describe shortly a typical day’s programme on -“ulendo”—as travel with carriers is universally called in Northern -Rhodesia. We rose at six. Before we had finished dressing a number -of carriers would be besieging our tents to snatch up our boxes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> and -other luggage in order to make an early start. Within a few minutes -of vacating our tents they would be taken down and made into suitable -loads and our beds and bedding would be packed and carried away. We -breakfasted in the open air about 6.45, and generally by 7.15 or 7.30 -we were under way. It was our custom to walk for the first hour or -two in spite of the heavy dew, which during the first part of our -trip covered the giant grass and the trees until the sun was well up. -Fortunately for us the cavalcade of carriers who had gone on ahead -acted as “dew-driers” by brushing the water off the grass as they -passed along.</p> - -<p>For the most part our journey lay through forest and bush and tall -grass, along native paths or roads three or four feet wide, which -had been made under the direction of the Government, but were often -overgrown with grass and shrubs except for a narrow track a foot or -eighteen inches in width, which had been kept clear by the constant -passing of natives along it. The greater part of our travel was over -the plateau, on which the paths were fairly level except at the -depressions caused by the numerous streams which drain it. From time -to time, however, there were steep, rocky hills to be surmounted, and -there were occasional swamps. It was not often possible to ride more -than a few miles in the bush-car without alighting and walking for some -distance. A very uncomfortable experience is to travel by bush-car or -on a bicycle along a path over which elephants have passed a short time -before. The sensation of bumping over footprints fifteen inches across -and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> three or more inches deep, and occupying the whole width of the -path, can be better imagined than described.</p> - -<p>We generally took luncheon between twelve and one, at a place where -water was to be found, either in a native village or in the forest. We -often found the table spread and the meal awaiting us, but sometimes we -had to wait long for it if our luncheon box happened to be far behind -us on the road. Then came two or three hours’ further travel before we -finished our journey for the day. Then came a cup of tea, and as soon -as the tents were pitched a bath and change of clothing. We dined about -sunset. Then followed what was to us the most delightful of the day’s -experiences. The rule on “ulendo” is for every man, when he collects -the firewood for his own watch fire, to bring a log for the white -man’s fire. Night after night we had magnificent camp-fires. Often the -missionary accompanying us would gather the men together for a service -round the fire, and sometimes the villagers also came. Those camp-fire -services will long live in my memory. The men would sit round the fire, -most of them naked to the waist, with their faces lit up by the fitful -flames or the light of the moon. They would listen with rapt attention -to the reading of the Scriptures or the words of the missionary, or -would join in prayer, often led by one of themselves, with the utmost -devoutness. But the most impressive part to us of these services was -the hearty and reverent singing of the hymns in the native language to -tunes well-known at home. These people have wonderful verbal memories. -Hymn books<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> seemed quite superfluous. Many of them knew by heart most -of the hymns in their collection, and it was quite evident that they -much enjoyed singing them. After the men had dispersed to their own -camp-fires came an hour or two’s talk round our fire before we sought -the shelter of our tents and our mosquito nets. It was our practice -to join in English evening prayers immediately after dinner. But -often long before we had left our chairs round the fire our native -servants, and oft-times many of the carriers, would spread their mats, -or, failing mats, lay some grass on the ground, as near the fire as -possible, with their bare feet towards it, and wrap themselves in -blanket or cloth and go to sleep under the stars, grateful for the -genial warmth of the fire in the cold night of a Central African -winter, and for the protection it afforded them against the beasts of -prey who were often prowling near at hand.</p> - -<p>Thus we travelled through Northern Rhodesia, visiting the stations of -our Central Africa Mission, calling upon the European Magistrates and -Native Commissioners, meeting Native Head-men and Chiefs, and passing -through numbers of small native villages, at all of which we received -a hearty welcome. When we entered a village, or met native carriers -on the path through the forest, we were greeted with the salutation -“Mutende,” which, being interpreted, means “Peace.” The carriers would -take their loads off their heads or shoulders, squat down on their -haunches, clap their hands and give us their salutation. On leaving -a village we were often accompanied for a mile or two by a running -crowd<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> of natives, consisting for the most part of women with babies -tied upon their backs and laughing children, who would shout and sing -as they ran behind and before the bush-cars or bicycle. We soon got -accustomed to the sight of these natives, nearly all of them naked to -the waist, and many of the children altogether naked. Most of those -whom we saw were smiling, happy-looking people, but that there was -another side to the picture was often painfully apparent. In many -villages the faces of nearly all the adults were marked with small-pox. -We frequently met cripples and lepers. Sore eyes, caused by the smoke -of the wood fires in the huts, for which there is no escape but the -door, were much in evidence, and we heard sad stories of the high rate -of mortality amongst these children of nature. Certain forms of disease -were very prevalent, and laid a heavy toll upon the people. Signs of -the superstition which shadowed their lives, and which is the main -feature of their animistic religions, were abundant. In many a village -the rude “spirit-hut,” with offerings of food spread in front of it was -to be seen, and we heard many sad stories of the influence wielded by -sorcerer and witch-doctor upon the lives of the people.</p> - -<p>Everywhere we experienced the good-will and hospitality of the -inhabitants. On arrival at our camping places a dozen women would -appear with brooms made of the twigs of the trees and brushes to sweep -the site of the camp clean before the tents were pitched. Others would -hasten off to the nearest watering-place to get a supply of water in -very large rough clay vessels for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> ourselves and our men. We often -pitched our camp in the middle of a village, and on these occasions -many of our men slept in the huts of the villagers which had been -willingly vacated to afford this accommodation. Mealies, manioc, and -native flour would be purchased by the missionary in charge of the -expedition for the men, and fowls and eggs for our own larder. Portions -of Scripture and hymn books would be sold by the missionary, and there -were many applications for them. Wherever we went the people were -always most grateful for any recognition of their efforts to show us -hospitality. Their desire for books for themselves and schools for -their children was everywhere apparent; while they were always willing -to come to the open-air services round the camp-fires. In the parts -of Northern Rhodesia through which our journey lay there were but -small indications of the advance of Mohammedanism from the north, of -which we had heard much. In the territory recognised as the Society’s -field of operations we have the country almost to ourselves. But in -the northern part of this territory there were not wanting indications -that the followers of the “false prophet” were already at work. In the -northern part of Central Africa Islam is advancing like a flood, and it -was clear that unless our Society is able effectively to occupy this -territory, we shall before many years be face to face with the growing -forces of Mohammedanism in its most debased form. The light which is -brightening the sky in Central Africa has this background of threatened -cloud and storm.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V<br><span class="small">The Brightness of His Rising</span></h3></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Arise, shine; for thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is -risen upon thee. For, behold, darkness shall cover the earth, and -gross darkness the peoples; but the Lord shall arise upon thee, and -his glory shall be seen upon thee. And nations shall come to thy -light, and kings to the brightness of thy rising.—<span class="smcap">Isaiah.</span></p> -</div> - - -<p>After fifteen days’ travel by bush-car, on bicycle, and on foot we -had traversed the 286 miles between the railway and Mbereshi. We -crossed a strip of the Congo-Belge territory shortly after leaving the -railway. At Sakania, the first station over the boundary, all our men -were examined by the doctor, and everyone who had not had small-pox -was vaccinated. We heard a gruesome story of a native postman who had -been arrested a fortnight before, in whose wallet a half-eaten human -foot had been discovered. A day or two later we crossed the Congo back -into Northern Rhodesia again. In the interval many rivers had to be -crossed, sometimes on tree trunks, but more often on the shoulders of -our carriers. The forest was magnificent, one of its most striking -features, perhaps, being the large number of giant ant-hills, some -30 feet high, generally around some great tree, and always covered -with bush and grass, flowers and trees. Butterflies were to be seen -in myriads, exhibiting all the colours of the rainbow. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span> crossing -of the Congo was a new experience. Descending the hill from the last -Belgian Post Office, Kalunga, the post-master of which was a young -Belgian Count, we crossed a bit of swampy ground on men’s shoulders and -then reached the landing-place, where pandemonium was raging. Our crowd -of carriers were there struggling for the two or three dug-out canoes -in which to transport themselves and their loads across the river, -which at this place—although it is thousands of miles from the sea—is -considerably wider than the Thames at London Bridge. It swarms with -hippopotami and crocodiles. But my most vivid recollection of the Congo -is that one of my bearers managed to drop an iron box containing my -papers into the river. Unfortunately it leaked and considerable damage -resulted.</p> - -<p>The village on the other side, in which we encamped, was typical of -many another village we passed through on our journey. Just behind our -tents were three spirit-huts; all around us were native houses built -of straw and mud, and then came an enormous growth of kaffir-corn -about twelve feet high. Surrounding this was forest, save where the -river wound its tortuous course. In the clear light of the evening the -somewhat sparse foliage stood out with great distinctness against the -blue of the sky, each twig and leaf being defined as if seen through a -stereoscope. The neighbourhood abounds with lions, leopards, elephants, -buffaloes, rhinoceros, zebras and hyenas.</p> - -<p>Half-way on our journey we camped for one night at Fort Rosebery, the -Government centre for the district.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> There we were the guests of the -Native Commissioner, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Denton Thompson, one of the small band of -young Cambridge men who are now being employed by the Chartered Company -as Magistrates and Native Commissioners. It is satisfactory to be able -to state that almost without exception the Government officials we came -across in Northern Rhodesia were men really interested in the welfare -of the natives and anxious to do their duty by them. Here as elsewhere -we received the kindest hospitality. Whenever we visited the Government -station we were invariably entertained by the officials, to whom no -trouble seemed too great which ministered to our comfort.</p> - -<p>During the following week we passed through country infested with -lions. At Mupeta we saw the skin of an enormous lion which had been -killed the day before. During the previous week this lion had killed -five natives. The people in the village laid a trap for him by tying a -goat in an empty hut, on each side of the door of which they had dug -a pit and had covered them over with laths smeared with mud. At the -bottom of the pits they had fixed spears pointing upwards. The lion -fell into one of them and the natives, who were on the watch, speared -him from above. There were at least a dozen holes in his skin. In -this neighbourhood twenty-two natives had been killed by lions in a -fortnight. We passed through one village where on the previous day a -man had been carried off by a lion, and a day or two before a woman and -a child, who were laying fish traps in the stream, had been killed and -carried away.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span></p> - -<p>On our arrival at Mbereshi we received a very warm welcome. About five -miles from the station some fifty boys met us and ran with us along the -broad road, which has been made by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Nutter, for some distance into -the forest. The men in charge of the bush-cars raced at full speed. -Groups of people met us nearer the station, all of whom joined the -racing cavalcade. Loud peals of thunder kept reverberating overhead -and drowned the reports of the guns which were fired to welcome us. We -arrived just as the first drops of a terrific thunderstorm fell. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Nutter’s house was soon crowded with natives, and there was endless -shouting and hand-shaking. Never had the natives had such a time in -Mbereshi. The whole village rose to the occasion and turned out to give -the representatives of the L. M. S. a hearty welcome. On the following -day we were the recipients of numerous presents of fowl, flour, goats -and eggs.</p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img008"> -<img src="images/008.jpg" class="w50" alt=">Native with Fish Trap"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]      [<i>Bernard Turner.</i> -<br><span class="smcap">Native with Fish Trap.</span> -</p> - - -<p>Mbereshi is a delightful station with a magnificent view to the -westward from the front of the Mission Houses, rolling parkland and -forest, with the Mofwe Lagoon four miles away on the horizon. Along -the shores of this lake and beyond there are about thirty villages -with a large population, which has settled there as a result of the -regulations to combat the sleeping-sickness. These have had the effect -of driving the Natives from the east and south shores of Lake Mweru -to the Mofwe villages. All the missionary activities of a flourishing -Mission station are in operation. There are Sunday services, schools, -classes for hearers and catechumens, and prayer meetings. The -Christians from the head-station go out to the villages on Sundays to -conduct services. Industrial work is being carried on under the able -superintendence of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Bernard Turner. The fame of the cabinet-making -and carpentry of the boys trained by him is spread far and wide -over Northern Rhodesia. Much of the furniture in the houses of the -Government officials was manufactured here or at Kambole. Medical -work, too, has been carried on at this station, and for several years -a doctor was in residence. Leprosy is common. In the district there -are 147 registered cases, and probably not less than 200 people are -suffering from the disease. Our Mission work was commenced here in -1900, and the early days were times of great trial. One of the first -missionaries, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Purvis, died there in 1901, a fortnight after <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Nutter’s arrival, and his grave is to be seen under a tree near the -Mission houses. In 1903 a missionary and a missionary’s wife died on -two successive days. God buries his workmen, but carries on His work.</p> - -<p>During our stay at Mbereshi we visited Kazembe, the paramount Chief of -the district, who nominally rules over 30,000 people. His town is some -six miles away from Mbereshi, through the thick forest and the long -grass. He received us outside his hut in the centre of the kraal, in -which are a hundred huts for his hundred wives. He was seated on the -ground, gorgeously and grotesquely adorned with beads and skins and -gaily coloured skirts, and wore four large bells, gaiters of beads, and -numerous heavy anklets above his bare feet.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span></p> - -<p>We sat down on low stools and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Nutter helped us to talk to him. He -showed us his treasures. One was a bloodthirsty-looking dagger which -had belonged to ten chiefs before him, and had often been used to kill -men. He produced a large number of charms, which he believes keep the -lions away, and played tunes on a wooden drum cut by himself out of a -solid tree trunk and decorated with brass-headed nails. He uses this -to call his servants when he wants them. The heads of the drum-sticks -are made of raw rubber. He sent for another and much larger drum made -in the same fashion, and carried by two men on a pole, and also showed -us two dulcimers made of wood and calabash. He gave us some raw green -mealies (Indian corn) to eat. Kazembe smoked cigarettes, and when -a member of the party offered him one he wanted to keep the silver -cigarette-case. Then he took us to the Mission School where there were -186 black boys and girls, many of whom were quite naked, and most of -the rest were dressed in pieces of string!</p> - -<p>A day or two afterwards Kazembe came to pay us a return visit, -accompanied by hundreds of his followers. He was seated on a platform -suspended between two tree trunks and carried by thirty men, a great -umbrella being held over his head. He himself beat his wooden drum to -tell us he was coming, and a man carrying great yellow and black flags -walked in front of him, and when he got off the platform he strutted -about like a peacock.</p> - -<p>Twenty years ago the Chief was a great warrior, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> often led his -tribe to battle; but the coming of the British Government and of the -missionaries has changed all that. For fifteen years not a shot has -been fired in anger in his country, and the nearest British soldier or -policeman is stationed more than a thousand miles away at Bulawayo. -Such is the influence of the Pax Britannica in Northern Rhodesia!</p> - -<p>On another day we crossed the picturesque Mbereshi river by the ferry -in two dug-out canoes, passing through masses of cream and mauve -water-lilies, visiting a considerable number of the Mofwe villages, -inspecting the schools and receiving the greetings of the Chiefs and -Headmen, with whom we exchanged gifts. The villages consist of one wide -street, and are almost continuous. The people live on fish and tapioca. -At the farthest point at the north end of the Lagoon was a village, on -the site of an older moated village, where Livingstone stayed for some -weeks when he first visited the district. We interviewed one or two of -the old inhabitants, who well remembered seeing him and were able to -describe him to us.</p> - -<p>After a stay of ten days at Mbereshi we plunged into the forest again -and journeyed to Chiengi on the north-east shore of Lake Mweru, which -was discovered by Livingstone in the late sixties. On the way we -paid a visit to Kashiba, a proposed site for the new station for the -Chiengi district. This visit brought home to us very clearly some of -the discomforts of Central African travel. After leaving our camp we -had to traverse some half-mile of bad swamp, being carried through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> -several stretches of water on the shoulders of our bearers. I used a -bicycle, but before we had gone very far a tremendous storm broke and -flooded the path. We sought shelter in a hut in one of the villages. -There was a fire inside, the smoke from which filled the hut and only -partially escaped through the thatch and the door. Except for the glow -of the fire and the flashes of lightning seen through the doorway -it was perfectly dark. The village street gradually became a raging -torrent. After the storm had ceased we pushed on through the long -grass, six to ten feet high and laden with water, arching over the -narrow winding path. We passed through a succession of villages, and -as we neared the site of the proposed station the people, who knew why -we were coming and who are most anxious to have a missionary residing -amongst them, gave us an ovation. The site overlooks the rapids of the -great Kalungwishi river, and a mile away a column of spray indicated -the presence of a great waterfall. Another deluge of rain descended -as we turned back. I hastened in front on the bicycle and reached the -swamp as it was getting dark. The heavy rain had converted it into a -lake. I rode along the path until the water was up to the pedals, then -I dismounted and pushed the machine. Soon both wheels were under water. -It grew deeper and deeper until finally, when the water became breast -high, I was obliged to lift the machine and carry it over my head. Such -are the joys of travel in Central Africa!</p> - -<p>Next day we entered the sleeping-sickness area and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> crossed the great -Game Reserve to get our first sight of Lake Mweru. The day afterwards -we arrived at Chiengi, after experiencing the delights of travelling on -a narrow path along which for miles elephants had been walking after -the rain. Cycling under such conditions is a somewhat trying experience.</p> - -<p>The view of Lake Mweru from the verandah of the Native Commissioner’s -house at Chiengi is of surpassing loveliness. To the south the lake -stretches away as far as the eye can see, bordered on the left side by -the forest and on the right by the mountains of the Belgian Congo 25 -miles away. Opposite, a little to the south, is Lunza, the beautiful -home of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Dan Crawford, the famous author of “Thinking Black.” At -one’s feet the water broke in tiny wavelets on the golden sand. Its -music was in our ears throughout our stay. The Central African sunset -from Chiengi was a sight to be remembered. The sun went down behind a -bar of cloud. A purple light, which rapidly turned to green, lit up the -western shores of the lake. After the sun had sunk below the horizon -there was a perfect blaze of colour over a large portion of the sky, -and purple, green and golden light stretched in broad bands above the -surface of the lake.</p> - -<p>From Chiengi we journeyed to Mpolokoso, the newest of the stations -of the L. M. S. in Central Africa, where <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> McFarlane has a small -hospital consisting of eight native huts. Our stay here was curtailed -owing to a very serious outbreak of small-pox, nearly half the -inhabitants of the village suffering from this scourge.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> Most of -those who were not isolated in the segregation camp had already had -the disease. Mpolokoso himself, the Chief of the village, succumbed -to it a few days later. The Government officials were using every -effort to stay the spread of the disease; all infected huts were at -once destroyed by fire, and no one was allowed to enter or leave the -village. The thin columns of smoke ascending from the burning huts into -the cloudless sky told a pathetic tale. On arrival our carriers were -put into custody to prevent them mixing with the people, and every -precaution was taken for the safety of ourselves and our men. One felt -great sympathy with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Cullen Gouldsbury, the Native Commissioner, -upon whom great responsibility rested. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gouldsbury is a man of many -parts. He is in the service of the British South Africa Company’s -Administration, and we had many indications of the sympathetic way -in which he carried out his duties in looking after the welfare of -the natives. Moreover, he is a poet of no mean order, a constant -contributor of verse to the columns of the <i>Bulawayo Chronicle</i>, -has written a delightful book of poems, is the joint author of “The -Great Plateau of Northern Rhodesia,” the most authoritative work on -the country through which we were travelling, and last year published -a book entitled “An African Year.” He has always been a friend of -the Mission, and it will be of interest to quote his testimony from -his latest book, as to one of our missionaries and his wife, which -is rendered all the more valuable by the fact that <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gouldsbury is -himself a Roman Catholic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“My views upon missionaries and their work, from the general point of -view, stand recorded elsewhere. I have no intention of recapitulating -them here. Let me rather dwell upon the personal standpoint, as -exemplified in the festive little couple who are our neighbours at -—— six miles away.</p> - -<p>“Let us call them Saunders—since that is not their name, and quite -sufficiently unlike it—Joseph Saunders and Jane his wife.</p> - -<p>“All missionaries in this country, whether Baptist, Presbyterian, -Church of England, or White Fathers, are hard-working, whatever else -they may be. Saunders himself is a man hung upon wires, each of -which would seem charged with a full circuit of electricity. He and -his wife and the sun rise together—a most energetic trio. Before -breakfast he has conducted service, taught for an hour or two in the -school, visited the workshops and checked the labourers about the -station. During the rest of the day he is occupied with blacksmithery, -joinery and the like—laid in slabs between other chunks of teaching. -As likely as not in the evening he will go out after a buck, for -Joseph Saunders is that <i>rara avis</i> among missionaries, a keen -hunter; and after dinner if there are people in the house he will -play ping-pong till all is blue. Not the ordinary ping-pong, you may -be sure; that does not afford sufficient outlet for his exuberant -spirits. Kapembwa ping-pong has mysterious rules of its own, such as -that the players must bound upon the table<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span> between the strokes, or -lie flat on the floor between serving and receiving the return. It is -a curious game. I can generally stay out two sets, after that Beryl -(the author’s wife) and I sit on the sofa and watch Saunders and his -wife play.</p> - -<p>“As for Mrs. Saunders, she is one of the nicest little women in -Africa. Demure, placid, and the very antithesis of Joseph—an adorable -touch of Lancashire in her soft drawling speech, and an utter freedom -from affectation or pose of any kind—she is the ideal next-door -neighbour in Central Africa.</p> - -<p>“Saunders sent over the <i>junga</i> for Beryl, so that she was -able to cover the six miles in comparative comfort, while I paddled -furiously behind upon an antediluvian bicycle. For the benefit of -the uninitiated I should perhaps explain that a <i>junga</i> is -anything which moves upon wheels. Originally it meant a bicycle, but -in this particular instance it refers to a marvellous construction, -balanced upon one wheel, which has been built by Saunders himself in -the Kapembwa workshop out of some old packing cases and gas piping, -and which has to my mind solved the question of locomotion in this -country.”</p> -</div> - -<p>We stayed for two nights at the Mission house at Mpolokoso with <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -McFarlane. On account of the small*pox it was impossible to visit the -schools or to meet with the people, though on the Sunday night some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> -half-dozen of the Mission staff, who do not live in the village, met us -and presented us with a generous offering to the L. M. S. of £4 12s. -6d., made by the infant Church, which consisted of nine members only, -a welcome token of the missionary spirit of the newest and smallest of -the Central African Churches.</p> - -<p>Travelling eastward from Mpolokoso we reached Kambole, near the south -end of Lake Tanganyika, after three days’ journey. On our way we had -our first view of this great lonely lake, eight miles away through the -trees, probably from the very spot where Livingstone saw it for the -first time. As we approached the station the people ran beside the -bicycle and bush-car shouting their salutations and showing their joy -in welcoming us in many other ways.</p> - -<p>Kambole is the centre of a very widely-scattered district, and is in -an isolated position. The nearest village is an hour and a-half’s walk -away from the station-village, and some out-stations lie three or four -days’ journey distant. It takes the missionaries five weeks’ continuous -travelling to make a circuit of the district.</p> - -<p>Many branches of missionary work are carried on at this centre. We -attended crowded services in the Church, and meetings with the classes -for hearers, catechumens, teachers and women. Some ninety-six youths, -who were teachers at the schools in the outstations, at which there -are 1,800 scholars, gathered at Kambole during our visit to attend the -school for the training of teachers, which is held twice a year at -the head station and lasts for about two months. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Stewart<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> Wright, -one of the Kambole missionaries, carries on an extensive out-patient -work at the dispensary near the wattle-and-daub church. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross, the -other missionary, is engaged in manifold activities and has charge -of the industrial department which was established and carried on -so successfully by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Bernard Turner, who is now at Mbereshi. The -prolific mission garden is another indication of the practical value -of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Turner’s work. It is excellently irrigated by the construction -of water-furrows. Palms, limes, bamboos, bananas, yams, pineapples, -guavas, grenadiloes, coffee, wheat, tapioca, rice, rubber, and many -vegetables and flowers flourish abundantly.</p> - -<p>Half-an-hour’s walk from the Mission House, along an eight-foot road -cut through the forest for a mile and a-half, at a total cost of £2 -10s. 0d., takes one to the edge of the Tanganyika Plateau, where there -is a sheer fall of from 400 to 500 feet. On the right is the river, -which descends in a series of beautiful waterfalls, arched over with -foliage and rock, to the level of the lake below. In front the lake -stretches away into the distance extending for 400 miles northward. -It is bordered on the left by the mountains of the Belgian Congo -and on the right by the hills of German East Africa. At the foot of -the precipice is a fertile valley, once thickly populated but now -uninhabited, owing to the sleeping sickness, and through this beautiful -valley flows the river Lovu.</p> - -<p>At Kambole we came across a cripple, by name Kalolo, whose history -affords an illustration of the sort of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> missionary work which is being -carried on in our Central Africa Mission.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross found Kalolo at Katwe, near Kambole, in 1906, destitute and -emaciated, cowering over a few embers of fire, his feet a mass of -putrid ulcers, which had not been washed or dressed for many a long -day. He seemed to have no relations. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross brought him to the -station at Kambole, and on his arrival prepared lotions for him, and -put him in charge of another youth, also a cripple, whom he told to -wash Kalolo’s sores. Cripple No. 2, by name Nundo, was afraid and -demurred. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross took him into the house and read to him the story -of the Good Samaritan, and told him to go and help Kalolo. He then -consented, and assisted the missionary to attend to Kalolo for a long -time. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross had taught Nundo to repair boots and shoes, and this -work he did for some time, but ultimately disappeared while <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross -was on furlough. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. Ross did their best for Kalolo for five -years, thus bearing witness to the people of the compassionate spirit -of the Gospel they had come to teach. The Mission doctors when visiting -the station treated Kalolo, but at last (in 1910) <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Wareham, after -vainly endeavouring to cure his tedious ulcers by palliative measures, -amputated both feet. When Kalolo returned to consciousness he was so -depressed that he tried to destroy himself. He still bears a scar on -his forehead caused by dashing his head upon the ground in his despair. -He was, however, brought through that crisis, and when he had recovered -he was sent back to Kambole station. A<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> wooden waggon was made in the -joiner’s shop to enable him to get about. Then he was taught boot and -shoe repairing, as the Europeans in the neighbourhood all sent their -boots and shoes to Kambole to be repaired. Kalolo was highly delighted -to have a means of making a living, and became a most useful man at -that station. Later, when <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross wished to find employment for two -blind men who came seeking work, he put them with Kalolo to grind -wheat. They proved to be a most successful trio at this work, and in -sawing up timber with the cross-cut saw, at which employment they were -engaged during my visit. Kalolo came to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ross long ago to say that -he wished to join the Enquirers’ Class, and was enrolled. He afterwards -came to the missionary and offered to help to dress the repulsive sores -of another unfortunate occupant of the little station hospital. Thus -the light of the Gospel is spreading in Darkest Africa, and the Native -torch-bearers are lifting it high, and passing it on from hand to hand -until “the beauty and the glory of the Light” shall illumine the people -that are now sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death.</p> - -<p>Accompanied by a large crowd of people, who escorted us on our way -for two or three miles, we left Kambole, still travelling eastward, -for Kafukula, a mission station near the south-eastern corner of -Lake Tanganyika, staying for a night at a village to which some of -the people on the lake shore had been moved in consequence of the -sleeping-sickness. It was amongst these people that Livingstone stayed -for some weeks when he first<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span> visited the lake. The exterior of many -of the huts was decorated with charms in the shape of snail shells. -Nearly all the women of the village had holes, about the size of -five-shilling pieces, in the lobes of their ears, in which large discs -of wood, decorated with grotesque specimens of native art, were placed.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img009"> -<img src="images/009.jpg" class="w75" alt="Kafukula Mission House, which cost £40"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>Photo by</i>]      [<i>Ernest H. Clark.</i> -<br><span class="smcap">Kafukula Mission House, which cost £40.</span> -</p> - -<p>On the following day, escorted by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark, the Kafukula missionary, -we reached that station, having descended some 2,000 feet from the edge -of the Plateau, enjoying on the way magnificent views of the lake, -near the shores of which we could see the ruins of the old Mission -station at Niamkolo, which we were to visit a few days later. The -Kafukula Mission house is a wattle-and-daub erection, and one of the -most picturesque residences in Central Africa, as will be seen from the -picture on the opposite page. It was built by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark in 1910 at a -total cost of £40. The view from the verandah can never be forgotten. -In front the valley shelves down to the lake shore some 300 feet below. -A small island, which is the property of the Society, nestles in the -lake close to the bank, while beyond away to the north stretch the -crystal waters in their mysterious loneliness. The eastern shore is -visible for some distance, but the western is hidden by the trees in -the foreground. This exquisite picture is framed by the forest-crowned -hills on either side.</p> - -<p>We had a great reception. As soon as we were seen descending the hill -the drums began to beat, the bugle sounded and a gun was discharged. -The people showed their gladness by smacking their mouths with their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> -hands while emitting a clear bell-like sound. At the bottom of the hill -the village Headman, a Christian, and a Church member of many years’ -standing, met us, and we walked into the village between rows of people -who, as we passed along, closed in behind and formed a long procession. -Here and there were groups of children singing hymns, some of them in -the native language and some in English. We passed through the village -and down the slope to the beautiful river Lunzua, a rushing torrent, -over which a primitive bridge of tree-trunks and mud in the shape of a -crescent moon leads to the path to the Mission house, which is situated -on a hill on the other side and is reached by a flight of forty-five -steps.</p> - -<p>Kafukula is the village to which many of the people from Niamkolo on -the lake shore were moved in consequence of the sleeping-sickness -regulations. During our stay we paid a visit to Niamkolo and the lake. -The following description, written on the evening of the day of our -visit, will speak for itself:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“We were up early—as is usual in Central Africa. After breakfast -we started for Niamkolo and the lake shore. On <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark’s advice I -donned my ‘ulendo’ dress—a large white sun-helmet, a khaki flannel -bush-shirt, khaki shorts, and stout boots and stockings and leather -leggings. The Mission family accompanied us, Mrs. Clark travelling in -a machila; the children—Dennis and Marjorie Clark—were accommodated -in a box slung on a pole, carried by two men. My colleague travelled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> -in a chair suspended between two poles and carried by relays of four -men. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark and I walked. It was a glorious morning. We stayed for -a few moments at two villages to see the schools, or rather to see the -teacher and his scholars, for school is held in a kind of stockade -open to the sky, but partially shaded by a tree. The children sang -lustily some verses of Mambwe hymns. Like all Central Africans they -have wonderful memories, and soon learn the hymn-book of nearly one -hundred hymns by heart.</p> - -<p>“The walk was somewhat arduous, as much of it was through very long, -thick, bamboo-like grass. Beyond the second village the land is -uninhabited, and is forbidden ground owing to the sleeping-sickness -regulations. We had to obtain special passes from the officials at -Abercorn to permit us to make the trip. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark had gone down with -thirty men a week before to clear the path as much as possible and to -burn the grass where necessary and practicable. It was an eight-mile -walk to the former Mission station at Niamkolo, and nearly two miles -further to the shore. The old station was a pathetic sight. The brick -house in which the Stewart Wrights and the Clarks had lived was in -ruins, as it had been left after the fire seven years ago. The walls -were standing to the first floor, and inside trees, shrubs and grasses -were growing in wild profusion. It was on Saturday evening, the 29th -June, 1906, that the detached<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> kitchen took fire in a great gale of -wind. The sparks were carried on to the thatch of the dwelling house, -and in two hours the place was burnt out—very little being saved. -The Clarks were there to see their home destroyed before their eyes. -This was the first time Mrs. Clark had visited the spot since the -conflagration.</p> - -<p>“Then came the walk down the hill past the site of the house in which -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. Hemans, the black missionaries from Jamaica, used to -live. Then we crossed the plain, once a great garden and rice field, -now a swamp, to reach the Church and the shore. I was carried across -the swamp by two men holding hands, on which I sat with my arms round -their necks. We reached the ruins of the Church about mid-day. It -is picturesquely situated on a hill overlooking the south end of -the lake, and the island belonging to the Society. Its appearance -suggests, on a smaller scale, the ruins of Iona Cathedral far more -than those of a Church in Central Africa. The walls and gable end -and the roofless bell-tower are still standing—and what walls they -are!—all of light stone fashioned in large slabs, and a yard thick. -We had lunch in the bell-tower in some trepidation, as the over-hanging -stones threatened to fall, and then we made our way down to the -stony beach, where we lingered long. The scene was beautiful beyond -description. The lake stretched away to the north into the ‘glow and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span> -glory of the distance,’ where water and sky met on the horizon. The -hills on each side were clothed with sylvan loveliness. The sky was -reflected on the bosom of the water. White cloud was piled on white -cloud with many a glimpse of deepest blue, and the glorious sunshine -dominated the scene. It was a dream of beauty.</p> - -<p>“The beach is covered with the loveliest shells of all descriptions. -As we sat on the shore the wind blew the spray from the waves into our -faces. The children and I paddled, and though, doubtless, there were -crocodiles in the bulrushes to our left, we did not see any. After tea -we turned our faces towards Kafukula. Long before we arrived at our -destination the shadows of departing day crept on, and by the time -we reached the villages it was quite dark. The sunset was worthy of -the beauty of the day. For some moments the western sky looked like -the very gate of the eternal. Then the fireflies flitted about in -thousands. Their light was, however, from time to time obliterated, -as it were, by flashes of summer lightning. Then the moon came out, -nearly at her fullest, and lit up the landscape with clear, cool, -placid light, and in the solemn beauty of the scene we forgot all -about the lions and puff-adders which infest the country after dark.</p> - -<p>“We had a great reception in the villages. The people all turned out -and greeted us, and bade us farewell with ear-splitting salutations, -following<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span> us for two miles and keeping up an unearthly noise all the -time. Then all was peaceful again as <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Clark and I reached Kafukula, -and crossed the arched bridge over the rushing river, and climbed up -the steps to the Mission House. From the verandah we could see the -great lake ten miles away peacefully asleep in the moonlight. It has -been a glorious day, which will live in the memory as long as life -lasts.”</p> -</div> - -<p>Evangelistic and educational work is carried on in Kafukula itself and -in the district of which it is the centre. Services and classes for -inquirers and catechumens are regularly held, and the missionary visits -the whole district three times a year, conducting services, inspecting -schools, interviewing inquirers and carrying on the usual missionary -activities. There are seventy-nine teachers connected with the station -whose wages range from £1 (one senior teacher alone gets this; the next -gets 9s. 6d.), to 1s. 6d. a month, and these wages are only paid during -the six or seven months that teaching in the schools is carried on. If -the teacher is placed far from his home he gets in addition 1s. a month -for food. There is also an evangelist, paid at the rate of 6s. a month, -who visits and preaches in the villages. There are 1,300 scholars in -thirty-two schools, and their education consists of reading, writing, -very elementary arithmetic and the memorising of the Lord’s Prayer, the -Commandments, the Beatitudes and other passages of Scripture and hymns. -Valuable medical work is also carried on. Some of the teachers acquire -a little knowledge of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> English language, which they are proud to -show off on occasion. After our meeting with the teachers we received a -letter in English, signed by some seventy of them and addressed to the -Directors, from which the following extracts may be given as specimens -of their English scholarship. The opening sentence is as follows:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“We are exceedingly glad to write you this little note to give you -a hearty greeting to you all in this district, so that the old men, -women childrens, boys and girls and whose tribes of this country are -anxiously to send you a good compliments as they couldn’t reach there -to see your faces or to gathered in the same Church.”</p> - -<p>It goes on: “But we were very glad to receipt those representatives -who came from their long journey as far as when they came from and we -had a very good general service and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Horlick was one who had held -the service in our Church and it was interests wonderful to hear from -him about his describes preaching he told us many things about jesus -christ our saviour and how a man would follow the secularity of the -kingdom of God.”</p> - -<p>The letter concluded as follows: “We thanks you very much for sending -us these Deputation to visit us and to hear many things from them -how do you loved us. We haven’t more information to tell you about. -farewell, Sirs with lots of salutation to all. We hope you are whole -in good health we should like to hear if you are better.”</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span></p> - -<p>“<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Horlick” requires some explanation. The natives were not familiar -with the names of the strangers who had come amongst them, but seeing -on the walls of the verandah a glazed sheet, which had arrived a few -days before, advertising the merits of “Horlick’s Malted Milk,” they -assumed that this “banner with a strange device” had some reference to -their visitors. Hence the mistake.</p> - -<p>From Kafukula we continued our journey eastward to Kawimbe, the oldest -of the Society’s Mission stations in Central Africa. On the road, which -was hilly and very beautiful, we were met by <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Wareham. At Abercorn, -the Government centre for the northern part of Northern Rhodesia, we -were hospitably entertained by the Magistrate, and then we continued -our journey to Kawimbe, ten miles away, where another great welcome -awaited us. Hundreds came out to meet us, many of the women and girls -being decorated for the occasion with yellow and red flowers in their -black woolly hair. They escorted us, laughing, singing and dancing all -the way to the Mission station, which is 5,600 feet above the level -of the sea, and picturesquely situated in a shallow basin. The native -village is built on the hillside half-a-mile away, and is well laid -out. Four miles off to the west is Fwambo, the original site of the -first Mission station on the Tanganyika Plateau. A few miles to the -east is the boundary between Northern Rhodesia and German East Africa. -To the south-east is the fertile and populous Saise Valley, forty miles -along which the sphere of the Society’s work abuts<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> upon the field of -the great Livingstonia Mission of the Free Church of Scotland. It may -be mentioned that the river Congo takes its rise a few miles south of -the Mission station. We remained at Kawimbe for nearly three weeks. -The Annual Meetings of the Central Africa District Committee were held -there during our stay. The first week was spent in seeing the work, -visiting parts of the district and interviewing the missionaries and -preparing for the meetings of the District Committee. One day, under -the guidance of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Govan Robertson, we spent over twelve hours in -visiting several of the villages of the district, and accomplished the -latter part of the journey in the dark. We shall long remember the -struggle in the dusk through the almost impenetrable undergrowth of a -picturesque mountain pass, and afterwards through the long grass.</p> - -<p>The three Sundays spent at Kawimbe were days of great interest. On -the first two large numbers of people came in to meet us from the -neighbouring villages. On the second a crowded harvest-thanksgiving -service was held at which offerings in kind were contributed, including -sheep, goats, fowl, eggs, nuts, maize, beans, flour, cloth, bracelets, -cash, etc. On the third Sunday I visited one of the adjacent villages -with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Robertson. Communion Services for the Native Christians -and the Missionaries were held. An interesting incident during our -stay was the unveiling of a brass tablet in the Church commemorating -the twenty-fifth anniversary of the commencement of the work on the -Plateau.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span></p> - -<p>The work at Kawimbe is divided amongst the three missionaries by mutual -arrangement. We had not the pleasure of meeting the senior missionary, -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Draper, who was away on furlough.</p> - -<p>An early morning prayer meeting, a morning service and an afternoon -class are held every Sunday. The number of Church members has been -steadily increasing in later years and has now reached forty-seven. -There are in addition fifty Catechumens (Christians under probation). -The Church work, as far as the men are concerned, has been affected -by the attraction of better pay offered elsewhere at the mines, -in the stores and in German East Africa. Most, however, of the -Christian men who have remained at Kawimbe have gone out regularly to -preach, and some have conducted Bible classes in the villages in the -neighbourhood. Besides the station classes and Sunday schools there -have been during last year classes in fifty-three villages, attended -by over 900 persons. There is a branch of the International Bible -Reading Association. The Educational work makes steady progress, and -schools are held in every village in the extensive district. At the -close of 1912 there were 2,408 children on the school rolls, with an -average attendance of 1,691. For the most part the school buildings -are provided by the people themselves. <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Wareham carries on a much -valued medical work, connected with which is a small hospital admirably -adapted for its purpose.</p> - -<p>Our visit to Kawimbe completed our tour of the Society’s Central Africa -stations.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span></p> - -<p>Northern Rhodesia can still be described as a land that is dark, but at -the mission stations we visited, and at many a little outstation, the -light of the Gospel is being kindled, and everywhere there is promise -that the darkness is turning to dawning. The Church is in its infancy, -but it is a growing Church; and, under the blessing of God, will in the -days that are coming be His instrument in spreading the light where now -the darkness reigns.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="C-MADAGASCAR">C.—MADAGASCAR</h2> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI<br><span class="small"><b>Tananarive—“A City Set on a Hill”</b></span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Earth has not anything to show more fair;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dull would he be of soul who could pass by</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">A sight so touching in its majesty:</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">This City now doth, like a garment, wear</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The beauty of the morning.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">Wordsworth.</span></span><br> -</p> - -<p>We travelled from Kawimbe in Northern Rhodesia to Madagascar by way -of German East Africa and Zanzibar. Owing to unavoidable delays at -the ports the journey occupied ten weeks. For the first three we -travelled by chair and bicycle and on foot, northward to Tabora, along -a road almost parallel with the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika. On -the first night we encamped at a village near the Kalambo river, the -boundary between Northern Rhodesia and German East Africa, close to -the wonderful Kalambo Falls. The river, which is deep and about thirty -yards wide, plunges over a perpendicular wall of rock 900 feet high -into an awful chasm in one sheer drop. The rocky walls on each side -of the gorge are vertical. Looking westward one has a lovely view -of Lake Tanganyika, vignetted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span> between cloudless blue sky and the -purple-breasted mountains in which the gorge terminates, lying calm and -peaceful in the “splendour shadowless and broad.”</p> - -<p>A week-end was spent at Kasanga, now known as Bismarckburg, the -administrative centre of the southern part of German East Africa, where -we met some educated and courteous German officials, who have always -done what they could to facilitate the missionary work of the Society -in the small section of their territory in which it is being carried -on, and gave us some interesting information with regard to native -customs and superstitions. We learnt that the natives offer sacrifices -of goats, sheep and fowls at the Kalambo Falls to propitiate the gods -who are supposed to dwell in the chasm, and to bring them luck. They -have a superstition that the land at the bottom of the Falls would -belong to the posterity of any person who threw himself over. A woman -recently sacrificed herself in this way, and the Chief gave the land -at the foot of the Falls to her family. When twins are born it is the -custom to do away with one of them. Children who cut the upper teeth -first are killed. Cannibalism amongst the natives is by no means -extinct, and as late as six years ago a European was killed and eaten. -There are well authenticated recent cases of the widow of a Chief being -buried alive in the grave of her dead husband. This part of German East -Africa is certainly a land that is dark.</p> - -<p>But I must not linger over the journey. Towards the end of June we -reached Tabora, a large native town of some 30,000 inhabitants, whence -we took train to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span> Dar-es-Salaam on the east coast of the Continent—the -capital of the German colony. This place is beautifully situated on -the shores of a land-locked harbour, and the streets are bordered -with stately cocoanut palms and shady acacias. It was formerly the -centre of the Arab slave trade, but, to-day, except for the tropical -vegetation, it reminds one of a modern European town. A few hours on -a steamer brought us to Zanzibar, one of the most fascinating places -we visited in our travels. After a stay of some days there we embarked -on the Messageries Maritimes boat for Tamatave, on the east coast of -Madagascar. On the boat we joined our colleague in the Deputation work -in Madagascar, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Talbot Wilson, and with him were the three members -of the Deputation from the Friends’ Foreign Mission Association, and -one of the Deputation from the Paris Missionary Society. A voyage of -seven days, calling on the way at ports on the north-west and northern -coast of Madagascar, brought us to the Port of Tamatave, some 1,500 -miles south of Zanzibar. From Tamatave we travelled by the splendidly -engineered new French railway to Tananarive, a distance of 239 -miles, passing on the way great lagoons near the sea coast, crossing -picturesque rivers, traversing belts of beautiful forest, and rising -by circular curves on the railway up the mountain side to the Central -Plateau of Madagascar, some 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. As -the train neared the capital it was joined by various missionaries who -had come part way to meet us. At the terminus—a great modern station -lit with arc lamps—nearly all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span> the missionaries at work in the city -and around it, and thousands of Malagasy Native Christians in their -straw hats and white lambas, met us, and gave us a great welcome.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img010"> -<img src="images/010.jpg" class="w50" alt="Map of Madagascar, showing L. M. S. Stations"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap">Map of Madagascar, showing L. M. S. Stations.</span> -<br>Madagascar is nearly 1,000 miles in length. Its area exceeds that of -France, Belgium and Holland put together, but its population is less -than one-fourteenth of that of these countries. -</p> - -<p>Tananarive is built upon a very narrow lofty ridge in the middle of -far-spreading rice fields, bordered by ranges of hills and mountains. -The ridge, which rises rapidly from the north, runs due south, and is -crowned at its highest point by the Palace of the former kings and -queens of the Island, which can be seen from a great distance around. -The crest consists of a steeply-rising thoroughfare, from many points -of which both horizons, east and west, can be seen. In the northern -portion, known as Faravohitra, are several of the Society’s mission -houses, and at the top is the Faravohitra Memorial Church. Continuing -southward, and still rising for the greater part of the way, the -British Consulate is passed on the right, and a short way beyond -this on the left is the massive building, now known as the Palais de -Justice, which was formerly the L. M. S. Theological College. After -a slight depression the road winds steeply upwards, until, leaving -the Palace of the Prime Minister on the left, and catching sight -of the Memorial Church of Ampamarinana on the right, we arrive at -the Queen’s Palace. The ridge then falls and rises again until its -southern extremity is reached at Ambohipotsy, where stand another of -the Memorial Churches and the present United Theological College of the -L. M. S. and F. F. M. A., and some Mission houses. The view is one of -great grandeur, especially looking to the west and to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span> south-west -towards the rugged ridges of the Ankaratra mountains. Looking -northwards one sees the wooded slopes of Ambohimanga, the ancient -capital of Imerina, like a crouching lion dark against the distant -hills. On the west, at the foot of the northern part of the ridge, is -the great Analakely market, which on Fridays is visited by thousands -of people, and adjoining the market is our handsome Analakely Church, -while beyond are the Residency, the railway station and the shops and -offices of the modern French town. A little above this the spire of -the Ambatonakanga Memorial Church and the two large school buildings -adjoining can be seen standing at the junction of two main roads, where -the traffic is at its busiest. One of the features of the landscape in -Tananarive is the large number of Church spires and towers which can be -seen on the plains below. It is said that there are some 150 of them -in sight, by far the greater number of them being now, or formerly, -Churches connected with the London Missionary Society.</p> - -<p>We had come to Madagascar from Central Africa, where missionary work -was in its earliest stages. In the “great African Island” the contrast -was very striking. There is only one brick Church in the Central Africa -Mission, the rest being wattle-and-daub. In Madagascar there are many -hundreds of spacious well-built brick Churches, and some handsome stone -ones. In Central Africa the Church is in its infancy, and comprises -less than 150 Church members. In Madagascar there are over 30,000 -Church members, and nearly five times as many other native adherents. -The magnificent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> results which have followed the work of the Society’s -missionaries, under the blessing of God, are everywhere apparent. -Wherever we went great crowds of Christian people gathered together to -meet us as the representatives of the L. M. S. The Churches were nearly -always full and often crowded to overflowing.</p> - -<p>The congregations find great enjoyment in the singing of hymns, and -very large numbers read their Bibles, while Sunday School work is -splendidly organized. A considerable proportion of the Church members -take part in Christian work. There are more than seven times as many -ordained native agents at work in connection with the Society in -Madagascar as in all the other Mission fields of the Society combined, -except Polynesia. In addition, there are over 2,500 preachers, a number -largely in excess of the number of preachers in all the other fields of -the Society put together. Moreover, the number of Church members and of -other native adherents in Madagascar connected with the Society is far -more than those in any other Mission field, and the same remark applies -to the number of Sunday Schools and Sunday School scholars.</p> - -<p>One cannot fail to be much impressed by the great capacity of the -Native leaders of the Christian Church in Madagascar. It would be -difficult to find a more capable set of men in any Mission field. They -are doing splendid work, and if this “apostolic succession” can be -maintained, the Malagasy Church of the coming days will not lack for -competent native leadership.</p> - -<p>Moreover, as the work of our Missionaries in Madagascar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span> is examined, -it becomes clear that the Mission is admirably organized. The men and -women who have served the Society in Madagascar in the past have, -under the guidance of God, laid the foundations of the work wisely and -well. Their successors are worthy of their great heritage. It was a -cause for rejoicing to find that the Native Church built upon those -foundations is a strong and living Church—full of promise for the -future. If the present Missionary work can be continued, and possibly -slightly increased, for a few more years, there is every reason to -hope that the Native Church will, in the not distant future, become a -self-supporting, self-governing, as it is already, to a limited extent, -a self-propagating Church, and strong enough to carry on its own work -of evangelizing the whole island.</p> - -<p>This growing Native Church is largely composed of Hovas, the -most advanced tribe among the Malagasy, and is to a great extent -concentrated in the Central Province of Imerina round Tananarive. This -is not an accident. It is believed that the best way to bring about the -coming of the Kingdom in the Island is to build up a strong Church in -the centre. As that Church increases in numbers and in spiritual power -it will be able to extend its own Missionary efforts, which are already -not inconsiderable, and to dispense, as time goes on, with the help of -the white Missionary to an ever-increasing degree, thus freeing him for -any work that remains to be done in the outlying parts, and ultimately -making it possible for him to withdraw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span> altogether—having finished -his work. To weaken our efforts at the present time would be to delay -and imperil this consummation. To maintain them will be the surest -and most speedy way of hastening on the day when the Missionary force -can be withdrawn and the Native Church left to bring each successive -generation into the Kingdom.</p> - -<p>There were many indications that the Native Church is itself steadily -keeping in view this ideal. I may quote a paragraph from the -translation of an Address presented to us by the Pastors of the Commune -of Tananarive the day after our arrival:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“We want you to know that we earnestly desire our Churches to become -independent, i.e. self-supporting. It is natural for young people to -want to set up housekeeping for themselves, and it is the same with -the Church. The near approach of the hundredth anniversary of the -arrival of Missionaries amongst us makes our hearts all aglow with the -desire for the independence of our Churches. There is no day which we -should more like to see than that on which we shall go with the last -Missionary to the railway station. On that day we shall overflow with -joy and sorrow, and our laughter will mingle with our tears.”</p> -</div> - -<p>The inner circle of Churches in Imerina is associated with seven -Churches in the capital known as “the Mother Churches.” Four of -these are the Memorial Churches erected in the years following the -re-opening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> of the Mission in 1862, after the twenty-five years of -the great persecution. The oldest and most famous is the Church of -Ambatonakanga, which was opened in 1867. It is the Mother Church of all -Madagascar. On its site the Bible was first printed in Malagasy in the -thirties of the nineteenth century, here the first converts made their -public profession of Christianity, and here stood one of the two first -places of Christian worship in the Island. The simple chapel erected in -1831 was afterwards turned into a gaol during the persecution, and here -many Christians suffered imprisonment. Adjoining it is the grave-yard, -where rest the remains of several British missionaries who have given -their lives to the service of Christ in Madagascar. This Church, which -has long been self-supporting, has associated with it twenty-seven -country Churches, and for some years has been under the pastoral care -of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> William Evans, one of the noble succession of Welshmen who -have done so much to advance the coming of the Kingdom in the Island.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Evans has also charge of the Martyr Memorial Church of -Ampamarinana—“the place of Hurling”—which is situated on the -south-west of the ridge on which the city is built. To the west of -the Church is the top of a rocky precipice, where in earlier years -sorcerers were executed by being hurled down the cliff to the plain, -400 feet below. During the persecution, as Christians were supposed to -possess some powerful charms enabling them to defy their persecutors, -fourteen of the noble army of martyrs were in 1849 thus put to death. -The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> present Native pastor of the Church is Andriamifidy, who was -at one time Foreign Secretary in the old Malagasy Government, and -from this Church several of the present leading Native Pastors have -come. Associated with it in the district to the west of the city are -twenty-seven country Churches.</p> - -<p>The third Martyr Memorial Church is that of Ambohipotsy, situated in -a commanding position at the extreme south of the city ridge with -a magnificent view on all sides. This beautiful stone building was -erected to commemorate the first Christian martyrdom—that of the brave -Christian woman Rasalama, who was speared to death near the spot in -1837, in a place where other Christians subsequently met their doom -in like fashion. The work of this Church and district, comprising -some forty-six country outstations to the south of the city, is now -superintended by Mrs. Thorne, who is bravely and successfully carrying -on the work of her late husband.</p> - -<p>The fourth Memorial Church is that of Faravohitra, erected on the -northern ridge of the capital by the contributions of the children of -Great Britain to commemorate the burning alive of four martyrs in 1849. -The work at Faravohitra and in its extensive district to the north, -comprising fifty country Churches, is under the charge of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> -Robert Griffith, another of the Welsh missionaries who have devoted -themselves to the service of Christ in Madagascar.</p> - -<p>Not far from Ambatonakanga, at the western foot of the ridge, is -the spacious Church of Amparibe, built of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span> brick and stone. This is -the third Church on the same site. The work there and amongst the -twenty-four country Churches lying to the north-west of the capital, -has during the last two years been under the care of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> F. W. -Dennis.</p> - -<p>The sixth Mother Church is that of Analakely, a short distance to the -north of Ambatonakanga, and adjoining the great market place. This -Church also is the third building erected on the present site. It was -opened in 1895, a few months before the French occupation, the ex-Queen -Ranavalona III. and her Court being present on the occasion. For thirty -years the veteran Missionary, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree, has been the missionary -in charge, and has superintended the work there and at the fourteen -country churches connected with it.</p> - -<p>The remaining Mother Church is that of Isotry, another large building -in the populous western district of the capital. It is only recently -that the Church at Isotry has been reckoned as one of the Mother -Churches of the capital. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Stowell Ashwell has had charge of the work -there for some years.</p> - -<p>The Institutional work of the Imerina Mission is centred in Tananarive. -Of these Institutions the most important is the United Theological -College, where pastors and evangelists for the work of the Mission -receive their training. For upwards of forty years the L. M. S. -Theological College in Tananarive has rendered great service by -preparing hundreds of young men for their work as evangelists and -pastors. After the French conquest the conspicuous College building -on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span> northern part of the ridge was appropriated by the French -Government and, as already mentioned, converted into Law Courts. The -work of the College was removed to a smaller building a little further -to the north, adjoining the Faravohitra Church. In 1910 a union in -Theological training was entered into with the F. F. M. A., and the -College was removed to a large house at Ambohipotsy and became a -residential Institution. A notable feature of the present work is the -training of the students’ wives.</p> - -<p>A number of cottages, named after Missionary Tutors of past days, have -been erected on land adjoining the College, and this department has -been superintended with great energy and devotion by Mrs. Sharman, the -wife of the present Principal, the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> James Sharman. The College -course extends over four years. Upon the staff are missionaries of -both Societies and four competent Native teachers, Pastors Rabary, -Rabetageka, Rakotovao, and Ravelo. The College at present contains -thirty-two students, and is doing a great work in making more adequate -provision for a well-trained and consecrated native ministry. In a -very true sense the College is the key to the missionary situation in -Imerina. If the Native Church is to maintain and extend its position, -it is necessary that a constant succession of well-educated and devoted -Christian men should go forth from the College to act as pastors of the -Churches and to be the leaders of the people in all their Christian -activities.</p> - -<p>Reference has already been made to the two conspicuous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span> buildings in -the centre of the city, adjoining the Ambatonakanga Memorial Church, -in which are carried on the Boys’ High School and a Girls’ School. -After the French occupation, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Sharman started the Boys’ School in -1897. It grew rapidly, and the present building was erected and opened -in 1901 by Governor-General Galieni, when there were 500 pupils on -the books. This number increased to 720, but was subsequently reduced -to 530 owing to Government regulations. It is at present conducted by -our Missionary, M. Henri Noyer, with the help of a staff of Malagasy -Assistant Masters. The average attendance at the School is 91 per cent. -of the number upon the books. In addition to the ordinary curriculum of -a school of this character, which directs great attention to the French -language, there are industrial departments for carpentry, woodwork, and -metal work in which a high standard of efficiency is reached.</p> - -<p>Adjoining the Boys’ High School is the Girls’ School, founded by <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -T. T. Matthews, where for many years some of the brightest girls from -the Churches of Imerina have received a good education. The Missionary -in charge of it is Miss Ysabel Du Commun, who, however, at the time -of our visit, was absent on furlough, Miss Craven taking her place as -Superintendent. The Government regulations only allow 230 girls in -the School, although there is ample accommodation for a much larger -number, and there are many girls now waiting admission when there are -vacancies. There are seven classes, with three men and four women -teachers and two sewing mistresses. In addition to the ordinary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span> -curriculum for such a School, training is given in hygiene, cookery, -dressmaking and fancy work.</p> - -<p>In another part of the town, at Andohalo, stands the Girls’ Central -School, where for upwards of forty years a fine educational work has -been carried on. There are now 400 girls on the books, and many more -are waiting for admission. The average attendance is 380. Amongst the -special subjects taught in the School are straw-plaiting, hatmaking, -lacemaking, first-aid and ambulance work. The staff consists of Miss -Elsie Sibree, the devoted head-mistress, two masters and eight women -teachers. The French Government regulations do not at present admit -of the employment of women teachers, except those who were appointed -before the present rules came into force. The present buildings, -which were erected twenty years ago, comprise a large and lofty -central hall, with a spacious gallery and six class-rooms. The sight -of the crowded school at morning prayers is a most impressive one. -The girls, bare-footed, dressed in their white lambas, with “shining -morning face,” and with that happy, placid expression, which is so -characteristic of the Christian girls and women of Madagascar, file -into the central hall and take their places with order and reverence -and join with heartiness and devotion in the singing and in the -prayers. It is a very rare thing for more than one or two to be late. -The tone of the school is of the highest, and the head-mistress always -strives, by prayer-meetings for the staff and in many other ways, to -impress the teachers with the missionary character of their work.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img011"> -<img src="images/011.jpg" class="w75" alt="Malagasy Girls at Miss Craven’s Girls’ Home"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap">Malagasy Girls at Miss Craven’s Girls’ Home.</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p> - -<p>Another branch of the work amongst girls is the Girls’ Home, -successfully carried on by Miss Craven for twenty years. Here is a -home provided for the daughters of evangelists and pastors and other -Christian workers who come to Tananarive for their education. The -girls attend the Central School and live in Miss Craven’s house, where -they are taught domestic duties, lacemaking, embroidery, and other -needlework at very small expense to the Society. Thirty girls are in -residence, and there are always more waiting for admission. Miss Craven -describes the work being carried on as follows:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“Now for a picture of the Home itself. There are one sitting and two -bed rooms, all large and airy; the former has tables and benches, but, -except for meals and preparation, the matted floor is just as much -used. Books and small possessions are kept in covered baskets, one to -each girl, and their clothes are in a cupboard or tin boxes. The girls -sleep on mattresses laid on the floor, besides which there is no other -furniture in the dormitories. They bring their own clothes, plates, -spoons, mattresses and coverings, but as there is more ventilation -than in their rooms at home, I keep a supply of blankets to lend to -them when the nights are cold; an outside building provides kitchen, -rice-house, bath-house, etc.</p> - -<p>“The days’ occupations vary little; the girls are up at daylight, -say 5.30 in the summer and 6.0 in winter, and, after a wash in the -bath-house, come back to their household duties, sweeping<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span> and dusting -their own rooms and some of ours, and preparing their breakfast of -rice and milk, which is ready before seven o’clock. After that all -the household assembles for morning prayers, and then there is the -bustle of final preparation for school before they form in line and -march off, two by two, looking a clean, tidy, and intelligent family, -of which we may well feel proud. They all go to the Girls’ Central -School, under the care of Miss Sibree, school hours being from 8 a.m. -to 12.45 p.m. One hour every afternoon is given to school preparation, -the remainder of the time being filled up with different kinds of -needlework, while the little ones divide their time between work and -play. One afternoon most of them are away at the C. E. weekly meeting -at Analakely. The evening meal is ready at 6.30, we have prayers at -7 o’clock, and then they say ‘good-night,’ and troop off to bed, a -few of the elder ones staying a little longer to do more lessons, or -finish some piece of needlework. Saturday brings a change of work, -for most of the girls go to do their weekly washing, not getting home -until about 3 p.m. After dinner they are busy until bedtime ironing -their clothes and getting ready for Sunday.</p> - -<p>“At different times they have attended Faravohitra, Ampamarinana, -Ambohipotsy, and Analakely Churches, and the Sunday Schools connected -with them. Sunday evening is spent with me singing hymns, discussing -Sunday School lessons and sermons,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span> and other matters of interest. -It is a happy time, and one to which we all look forward. The Sunday -School has a great attraction for them, especially the yearly -examination, for which they prepare several weeks beforehand, and from -which they carry off some of the best prizes.</p> - -<p>“Quarrels and troubles have not been frequent, and during the last two -or three years have been increasingly rare. Severe discipline has been -needed in very few cases, one being that of a girl who was sent away -for continuing a clandestine correspondence; she has been carefully -watched at home, and is turning out well. About three years ago we -were very grieved when one, who had been with us for many years, took -the law into her own hands and ran away to be married. We do not, -however, give up hope that she will become a Christian woman and train -her children well. The health of the girls has always been a great -responsibility, and malarial fever has been very much more frequent -during the latter half of the decade. We have not lost any by death, -except one who died at home during holidays. We generally find that -the girls improve in health while under our care, and we do not often -need to call for the help of a doctor. Occasionally we have to regret -that girls are removed by their parents while still young, but as a -rule they remain with us until about to be married, or get married -soon after leaving.</p> - -<p>“As to the spiritual results, we may speak with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span> some confidence. -Three have joined the Church, and one has been baptised on profession -of faith while still in the Home, and others have become Church -members soon after marriage. The Spirit of Christ is clearly working -in the hearts and lives of many who are still with us. Of one dear -girl, who died very happily after the birth of her first child, her -husband said to me: ‘I rejoice over the months we have lived together; -she has done me good.’”</p> -</div> - -<p>Another department of Institutional work is the L. M. S. Printing Press -in Tananarive, which stands for much more than its name implies. It -is true that a prosperous business in printing and book-binding is -carried on, seventy men being constantly employed. But the Printing -Press is a kind of “Universal Provider,” and anything, from a harmonium -to a needle, can be purchased there. Under the able superintendence -of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ashwell, a considerable annual profit is made. The magnitude -of its operations is surprising. In the ten years ending in 1910, -1,833,243 books and pamphlets were issued from the office, including -over 40,000 Bibles, 60,000 New Testaments (printed in England), nearly -350,000 lesson books, over 131,000 hymn books, and a large number of -commentaries and other religious works.</p> - -<p>No sketch of the Institutional work in Tananarive would be complete -without a reference to the Medical Mission, which for many years has -been carried on jointly by the F. F. M. A. and the L. M. S., the doctor -being a missionary of the former Society. For the last sixteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span> years -<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Moss has been the medical missionary in charge, and in his own -person illustrates the close union between the two Societies in this -work. He has been a missionary of the F. F. M. A., and is the son of -an L. M. S. missionary, and his wife, a trained nurse, is the daughter -of an L. M. S. missionary, the saintly Joseph Pearse. No department of -missionary work in the capital suffered more from the advent of the -French than the Medical Mission. A fine commodious hospital, opened -in 1891 by the ex-Queen, was appropriated by the French Government -in 1896, and since then the hospital work has been on a much smaller -scale, and in fact there was no hospital at all between 1897 and 1903, -although a large out-patient work was carried on. In the latter year -a small Cottage Hospital was erected, round which the work has since -centred under the devoted superintendence of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> and Mrs. Moss.</p> - -<p>In barest outline some account has been given of the Institutional work -of the Imerina Mission, which is centred in Tananarive. In this work -the European missionary and the Native agent, working together side -by side and in closest co-operation, are contributing to the building -up of a strong Native Church, which in the future is to be God’s -instrument in spreading the light into the dark places of the Island. -This Church is as “a city set on a hill that cannot be hid.”</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII<br><span class="small"><b>Imerina Country Districts—“Fields White Unto Harvest”</b></span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Say not the struggle naught availeth,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The labour and the wounds are vain,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The enemy faints not, nor faileth,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And as things have been they remain.</span><br> -</p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For while the tired waves, vainly breaking,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Seem here no painful inch to gain;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Far back, through creeks, and inlets making,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Comes, silent, flooding in the main.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">Clough.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>It was not until 1870 that the L. M. S. established its first country -station in Madagascar. In that year <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree founded a residential -station at Ambohimanga, the ancient capital of the Hovas, and one of -the three towns in Madagascar which, until the French occupation, no -European was permitted to enter. Ambohimanga lies about eleven miles -north of Tananarive, whence its wooded heights can be clearly seen.</p> - -<p>At the top of the hill is the old royal palace, built for King -Andrianampoinimerina, who reigned from 1788 to 1810, and was the first -king who had any claim to be regarded as monarch of the whole Island. -He was the father of Radama I., who moved the capital to Tananarive. -After its removal the old royal palace<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span> was visited by the sovereign at -least once a year. The building is at all sorts of levels, and there -are great trees growing in most unexpected places. When the walls which -supported the wooden palace were last plastered the white of eggs was -used to make the plaster, so as to give it a glazed appearance. It is -said that millions of eggs were used in the process. At the very top of -the hill are some rocks, from which there is a most magnificent view -nearly all round the horizon. On these rocks superstitious practices -are still observed, indications of which were very apparent to us at -the time of our visit. To the north is a precipice, and at its foot -rice fields stretch away into the distance to the hills and mountains -which bound the horizon. The present Native Governor of the town is -an old L. M. S. boy from Betsileo, trained by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Rowlands. He showed -to us with great pride a silver watch which his former missionary had -given to him.</p> - -<p>Ambohimanga is reached by pousse-pousse (rickshaw), the journey -occupying two hours. Its first three missionaries were <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree, -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wills, and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Peill, all of whom have had the honour of giving -children to the Mission field in Madagascar and in other parts of -the world. The Ambohimanga Mission house must be the centre of happy -memories for missionaries now at work in China, India, and Samoa. -The contribution which the Madagascar missionaries have made to the -Society’s staff, especially in China, is remarkable. <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree has -given a daughter to the Medical Mission at Hong Kong, and a son to the -South Sea Mission, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span> addition to two daughters to the Madagascar -Mission. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wills was the father of a medical missionary carrying -on work in Central China, and another son is at work in India. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Peill has given four sons to the North China Mission, three of them -being doctors. A son of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Peake’s is also a medical missionary in -North China. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Rowlands has two sons and a daughter missionaries in -China. A daughter of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Pearse is the wife of a medical missionary in -North China; and a second daughter is the wife of a medical missionary -in Madagascar. A son of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Huckett was for a short time a medical -missionary in India. Three children of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> George Cousins have become -missionaries in China. And so the Apostolic succession is continued.</p> - -<p>Since <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Peill left Ambohimanga the Mission there has been in charge -of two Welshmen, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Griffith, and the present missionary, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Owen -Jones, thus carrying on the tradition that Madagascar is pre-eminently -the Mission Field of the Welsh Churches.</p> - -<p>On the occasion of the visit of the Deputation a great gathering was -held in the largest of the three L. M. S. Churches at Ambohimanga, all -outside the city walls, on account of the old law, above referred to, -excluding Europeans from the town itself. Thirty-five Churches were -represented in the crowded congregation from the Ambohimanga district -which gathered together to meet us. There were all the indications of -a strong and growing Christian work, which was further evidenced by -the efficient school work, and the work amongst<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> women which is being -carried on, and by the long and earnest discussion we had with the -native pastors and preachers.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles east of the capital is the country station of Isoavina, -where for nearly forty years the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> P. G. Peake carried on his -vigorous and varied missionary labours. The Mission house is -beautifully situated in the hills amidst fine trees planted by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Peake in a beautiful garden, intersected by two perennial streams -of water. There are school buildings, workshops, and a row of -cottages bearing testimony to the work of this earnest missionary. He -established an industrial school at the station and taught carpentry, -iron-work, tinsmith’s work, and other industrial pursuits. The -industrial department was, however, suppressed by the French officials -in 1896, but was afterwards resumed on a smaller scale in 1907. But -perhaps the missionary activity by which <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Peake will be best -remembered is the founding of the leper settlement at Imanankavaly, an -hour’s walk away from Isoavina, which has since grown to such large -proportions under the French Government. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Peake has himself told the -story of the genesis of this great work in the “Ten Years’ Review.”</p> - -<p>In 1900 the French authorities purchased the Leper Settlement, and -have since carried on and developed the work there to an amazing -extent. There are now 1,500 lepers in residence. The Settlement is -a large village, consisting for the most part of rows of detached -huts in which the lepers live, and is a model of cleanliness<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span> and -order. I visited the Institution and was greatly impressed with what -I saw. Nearly all the inmates bear the awful marks of leprosy upon -them. Many have bandages round their feet, legs and arms. Many have -lost feet and hands and are horribly mutilated or deformed. Many have -terribly distorted faces. Some hid themselves away as they saw visitors -approaching. Others lay in the sunshine huddled up in dark blankets. -Many, however, were able to work, and were engaged in building new huts -or in agricultural pursuits. There were men and women, boys and girls, -a most pathetic multitude. Yet smiling faces were quite common as the -lepers saluted us as we passed along between the rows of cottages. It -was Saturday, the weekly cleaning day, and all the meagre furniture, -pots and pans, were turned out of doors. The staple article of food is -rice, of which over five tons a week are consumed. Twice a week meat is -supplied, and the Government also provide soap, candles and salt. The -whole Institution is a wonderful example of method and organization. -But the most remarkable fact in connection with the work is that it is -entirely directed by a woman of sixty-five years of age, Mlle. Sapino. -This lady came to Madagascar some eighteen years ago as a missionary -of the Paris Missionary Society. On severing her connection with that -Society she took up this work amongst the lepers. She controls the -whole of the Institution down to the minutest details. She superintends -the buildings. She buys all the stores, and I saw her weighing out -the rice for distribution to the Lepers. She examines every<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> case -as it comes in, and puts all the particulars down on a chart. She -personally dresses the wounds in the worst cases, and was engaged in -doing this Christ-like work when we arrived. For all her services she -receives the munificent stipend of £80 per annum and a house. Out of -this at the present time she is keeping some forty untainted children -of lepers born in the Institution. The Government will not make her -any grant because these children are not lepers. Some months ago she -sold her drawing-room furniture to get money to keep the children. She -is a remarkable-looking woman—tall, with prominent features and iron -grey hair. She reminded me more than any other woman I ever saw of the -pictures of George Eliot. She told me that the Government respected -her, but did not love her. They know she is indispensable. A week or -two previous to my visit they sent her an unsatisfactory Frenchman -to be an assistant. She objected and resigned. In a few hours a high -official’s wife came out to tell her that the Government would do -anything she asked with regard to the Frenchman. She demanded his -immediate removal, and in twenty-four hours he was gone. She has no -European assistant, but seven untainted Malagasy, including a doctor. -All the rest of the work is done by lepers—except that the Government -have sent recently five Malagasy soldiers as a guard. I was told that -Mademoiselle always carries a loaded revolver about with her for fear -of trouble. At the time of my visit she had no servant in her house, -and did all her own cooking and housework. She is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span> one of the most -remarkable women I have ever met, and carries on a wonderful piece of -work. She is a strong Protestant. There is a school and a Protestant -and Catholic Church in the Institution. The cost is very small—less -than 35s. per inmate per annum, which seems almost incredible.</p> - -<p>But to return to Isoavina. During our visit a great united meeting of -the Isan-Efa-Bolana (four-monthly meeting) for the whole district was -held in the Church. The schools were inspected and interviews held -with the leading Christian workers. At this place, as at nearly every -other place in Madagascar which we visited, presentations were made -to us by the Native Christians in order to express their gratitude -to the Society for sending us to visit them and their pleasure at -seeing us. At various places we were the recipients of numberless -turkeys, fowls and eggs. Offerings of other kinds of food were made, -and we received more permanent reminders of our visit in the shape of -lambas, walking sticks, lace, rafia work, embroideries, scarf pins, -serviette rings, photographs, hats, addresses, etc. In their joy at -seeing representatives of the Society in their midst it seemed that our -friends could not do enough to express their appreciation and gratitude.</p> - -<p>Some half-hour’s walk from Isoavina, the “Rest-House,” or Sanatorium -belonging to the Mission is situated at Ambatovory in the midst of -lovely country commanding fine views. It is here that many of the -Imerina missionaries spend their hard-earned holidays.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span></p> - -<p>During my stay at Isoavina I paid a surprise Sunday morning visit to -a small outstation called Fararina. Every precaution was taken to -conceal the fact that a visit was going to be made, so that the visitor -might have an opportunity of seeing a country outstation under normal -conditions. The Church was a small and primitive wattle-and-daub -building, with a brick pulpit, covered with the commonest and most -gaudy wallpaper. The earth floor was covered with matting. I was -delighted to find that the chapel was practically full. Afterwards -a Communion Service was held. The “bread” was nearly black. It was -made of manioc root and coarse black sugar almost like treacle. The -“wine” was pine-apple juice. The cups and plates were tin painted red. -Although the visit was a complete surprise, the people would not let me -go without making the customary gifts. As I descended the steep hill -after the service some of the Church members overtook me bringing a -fowl, and as I reached the foot others came running after me with eggs.</p> - -<p>Ten miles north-west of Tananarive is Ambohidratrimo, where the late -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Baron lived for two years in the seventies. In 1901 Ambohidratrimo -was re-opened as a residential station under the care of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> F. -W. Dennis, and it is now in charge of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> H. A. Ridgwell. In past -days it was the capital of one of the four small kingdoms into which -the present province of Imerina was divided, and it still retains -marks of its former importance. At the top of a lofty hill behind the -Mission house the royal village once stood, where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> a century ago the -Malagasy king ruled over his petty kingdom. There are still several -royal tombs to be seen. Towards three-quarters of the horizon a great -plain stretches out into the distance. In the middle of it towards -the south-east amidst the rice-fields is Tananarive. All around are -mountains. The country looked like a gigantic relief map, and the view -must be similar to that to be seen from an aeroplane.</p> - -<p>Ambohidratrimo is reached by a two hours’ ride in a pousse-pousse -through rice fields and pine-apple gardens. In passing along the road -I could see the women very busy in the rice fields, transplanting the -young rice and working in water half up their legs. Pine-apples are -very plentiful in the district, and three large ones can be bought for -a penny. During our visit we attended two great meetings, one in the -Mission Church consisting only of men, representing some sixty-eight -Churches in the district, while the other, for women only, was held at -an outstation in a large village Church with very few seats. The Church -was crowded, most of the women being seated on the floor looking very -clean, happy and bright in their white lambas. Many of them had walked -for several hours to attend the meeting. The wife of the evangelist -made an admirable president, and several women took part in the meeting.</p> - -<p>Fourteen miles north-west of Ambohidratrimo is Vangaina, which became -the residence of a missionary in 1903. It is the centre of fifty -outstations, which are superintended by the Vangaina missionary, -the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> Thomas Tester. The beautifully situated Mission<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span> house has -been built on the hillside some distance off the main motor-car road -from Tananarive to the Port of Majunga on the north-west coast. At -the station there is a Church and a school. A united meeting for the -Churches of the district was held at the outstation, Ampanotokana, at -which forty-four Churches were represented, crowding the building to -its utmost capacity.</p> - -<p>Our journeys to these country stations afforded many opportunities of -seeing various sides of native life. On the way to Vangaina we visited -the large native market at Mahitsy on market day. We went up and down -between the stalls in the market place. The vendors must have numbered -many hundreds, and the people attending the market some thousands from -all over the countryside. Amongst the articles for sale were straw -hats and mats, spades and hatchets, great heaps of fine pineapples, -sugar cane, pigs, cattle, rice, meat, great piles of a small kind -of dried fish, salt, tinware, calico, black soap (like the soap our -missionary, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Cameron, taught the natives to make eighty years ago), -buttons, biscuits, ducks, vegetables—all in the greatest profusion. -Perhaps the most interesting feature was the space set apart for the -blacksmiths, who were repairing spades, tinware, cart-wheels, etc., -with the help of primitive forges. The blast was created by two upright -cylinders of wood with pipes from the bottom of them to convey the wind -to the charcoal fire. The air was driven into these pipes by means of -plates of wood, which were forced up and down the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span> cylinders by poles -attached to the upper surface and worked by men’s hands. They formed -very effective bellows.</p> - -<p>Vangaina itself is a small village with two moats, each about twenty -feet deep, in which banana trees were growing. An interesting feature -in the village is a great tree in which I saw three enormous nests -of the crested-umber built in the forks of the tree and made of hay, -straw, grass, and twigs, each one being about six feet long by six -feet wide. The bird is about the size of the domestic fowl with longer -wings, and is called the Taketra. It is a bird of ill-omen, and in the -old days when the ex-Queen used to come out to Ambohimanga she would -turn back again to Tananarive if one of these birds crossed her path. -The old Malagasy believe that these birds bring leprosy.</p> - -<p>The most distant country station in Imerina from Tananarive is that of -Anjozorobe, between sixty and seventy miles north-east of the Capital. -On the way one passes through the town of Ambohitrolomahitsy, for some -years the residential station for the district, at which the late -<abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> Percy Milledge, and after him the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> W. Kendal Gale, carried -on work. We attended three large meetings at this place. The journey -thither to Anjozorobe led us over a range of mountains, one of which -bears a Malagasy name meaning “The mountain which cannot be climbed.” -Anjozorobe, which is beautifully situated, became a residential station -in 1910, when <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gale moved there from Ambohitrolomahitsy. He and -his family live in a newly-erected Mission house<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span> bearing a Malagasy -name, which being interpreted means “The house of sweet breezes,” now -quite familiar to readers of the Society’s magazines. His missionary -colleague, Mrs. Milledge, formerly Miss May Sibree, lives some -distance away in the centre of the native village in a Malagasy house. -Anjozorobe is the centre of a very extensive district, in which there -are forty large outstations, and includes the northern part of the -Bezanozano country, the southern portion of which is connected with the -Isoavina Station. It was not my privilege to visit the Bezanozano, but -one of my colleagues, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Talbot Wilson, spent nine days in a tour in -this country.</p> - -<p>During our visit to Anjozorobe a large united meeting for the whole -district was held at the Church. Visits were also paid to some of the -nearer outstations. The schools were inspected, and a gathering held -for the native workers. Much of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gale’s time is spent away from -home, his itinerating work through a widespread district necessitating -his absence for many days at a time. Mrs. Milledge, too, spends much -of her life travelling between outstations, living in native houses, -and holding classes for women and girls in both the Anjozorobe and -Ambohitrolomahitsy districts.</p> - -<p>The journey back to the capital took us through Ankazandandy and -Ambohibao, where crowded and enthusiastic meetings were held.</p> - -<p>By the work of our missionaries at these country stations, and of -hundreds of native pastors and preachers, the light is being spread -through the central province<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span> of Imerina. Before the French occupation -the L. M. S. work was much more extensive than it is at present. It -became necessary to hand over some of the work to the Paris Missionary -Society, whose missionaries, with those of the F. F. M. A. and the -S. P. G. and their native workers, have now for many years past been -engaged in passing on the light from place to place. The Church is -steadily growing and extending into the dark places beyond.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII<br><span class="small"><b>Betsileo—“The Sombre Fringes of the Night”</b></span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The glad Dawn sets his fires upon the hills,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Then floods the valley with his golden light,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And, triumphing o’er all the hosts of night,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The waiting world with new-born rapture fills.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">L. C. Moulton.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>The scene now changes to the province of Betsileo, in the south of the -Island, where the work is carried on amongst a backward people, whose -territory abuts upon the districts occupied by tribes more benighted -still—the Sakalava, the Bara, and the Tanala.</p> - -<p>Until quite recently the work in Betsileo was separated from the work -in Imerina by a journey in a filanjana (palanquin) occupying from -eight to ten days. Now the 264 miles which separate Tananarive from -Fianarantsoa are covered in two days in comfortable automobiles, along -a magnificent road which has been constructed by the French. For almost -the whole of the distance the country is very hilly, the road rising to -4,500 feet above the sea level, and being carried over mountains in a -continuous series of curves with easy gradients.</p> - -<p>We were travelling in the middle of the Malagasy winter. The mornings -were cold and misty, but before long the sun broke out and we enjoyed -a changing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span> panorama of hill and mountain, waterfall and river, and -far-spreading distant views. Peaks sixty miles away appeared to be -quite near. Time after time the road traversed amphitheatres in the -mountains, and I was often reminded of stretches of country in the -province of Hunan in Central China.</p> - -<p>Fianarantsoa is the capital of the Betsileo province, the inhabitants -of which are a curly-haired, dark-skinned people of a somewhat low -type, except in the large towns where most of the population is Hova. -Work is also carried on at outstations amongst the Bara and Tanala -tribes in the south. The L. M. S. first sent resident missionaries to -settle in Betsileo in 1870, and the Paris Missionary Society and the -Norwegian Society are also at work there.</p> - -<p>Fianarantsoa is picturesquely situated in a mountainous region. It -stands considerably higher than the top of Snowdon, and commands a -wonderful view on all sides—of mountains and moorland, forest and -river in infinite variety. During our visit, in the early mornings -great seas of mist lay in the valleys, but later in the day the whole -landscape was flooded with brilliant sunshine.</p> - -<p>The work in the Capital itself and at seventy-four outstations is -in charge of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Huckett and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Johnson, who have borne the burden -and heat of the day for upwards of thirty years, while Miss Hare has -been in charge of the Girls’ School for the last seventeen years. The -Mission Compound is extensive and contains the Girls’ School, three -Mission houses, the Theological College, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span> was once a hospital, -and cottage accommodation for the students at work in the College and -the boys from the L. M. S. country stations attending the Boys’ School -of the Paris Missionary Society. In Fianarantsoa there were all the -evidences of extensive missionary activities and of a successful work. -The numerous meetings that were held during our visit were crowded. -During our stay the annual gatherings of the Betsileo Isan-Kerin-Taona -(yearly meeting) were held.</p> - -<p>They were the first gatherings of the kind at which I had been present -in Madagascar. As I attended meeting after meeting the impression made -upon me as a visitor was that of “fields white unto harvest.” To my -unaccustomed eyes the white lambas, which seemed to fill the Churches, -suggested the white fields referred to in the Gospels. And then came -the thought which gave rise to glad thanksgiving, that in Madagascar -the harvest indeed had been plenteous, though the labourers had been -few. Then came a vision of the great harvest-home when from the north -and south, the east and west of this island men and women, boys and -girls would all be gathered into the Kingdom, and those who sowed and -those who reaped would rejoice together.</p> - -<p>Three meetings stand out in my memory. On the Wednesday there was -a representative gathering of the delegates from the L. M. S. and -P. M. S. Churches in Antranobiriky Church. M. Couve, of the Paris -Society, addressed some burning words to the delegates, which went to -their hearts. I spoke of the United<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> Malagasy Church of the future, -and rejoiced to find so hearty a response to the idea of union. Next -day at the Assembly M. Couve spoke with great earnestness on the -duty of self-support, and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Houghton gave an eloquent address on -self-government.</p> - -<p>The third meeting was a memorable one. It was a united Communion -Service held on Thursday afternoon in the Church of the French -Protestant Mission. The spacious church was crowded to its utmost -limits. The aisles and stairs were thronged with devout worshippers. -A native pastor conducted the service. Missionaries and evangelists, -pastors and preachers joined with some 800 Christians and the -Deputations from the two societies round the table of our Lord. Men -and women, brown and white, were all as one in that sacred service of -commemoration and consecration. The solemnity of the gathering was -emphasised by the thunderstorm which broke over the town while the -service was proceeding. The church became dark. The wind howled. The -lightning flashed. The thunder rolled. The rain fell. And then came the -brilliant sunshine—a prophetic vision of the history of the Church -of Christ in Madagascar. Persecution, trouble, and anxiety have beset -that Church in the past. Even now there are clouds upon the horizon. -But the day is surely coming when the glorious shining of the Sun of -Righteousness will flood this great island with light and love, and all -who live in it “shall shine as the brightness of the firmament, and ... -as the stars for ever and ever.”</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Huckett has long carried on a fine piece of work<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span> in the -Theological Seminary. Here pastors and evangelists receive a three -years’ course of training, and there is a two years’ course for -catechists and itinerating preachers. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Huckett also superintends -the boys and youths from the country mission stations, who come up to -Fianarantsoa to complete their education, living in the cottages above -referred to, which are supported by the Glasgow Foundry Boys’ Religious -Association. Another branch of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Huckett’s manifold labours is the -secretaryship of the local agency of the British and Foreign Bible -Society. From the Bible and Book Room in the Compound the Scriptures -are distributed to the whole of the South of Madagascar, and five -colporteurs are at work.</p> - -<p>At the Girls’ High School, conducted by Miss Hare, there are one -hundred girls on the books, of whom on the occasion of our visit -ninety-six were present. There is ample accommodation for more -scholars, but the Government regulations prevent it being utilised. -Some of the girls at the school come from the country stations and -live in the Mission house with Miss Hare. It would be a very great -help to the work if a Boarding Home for Girls could be established -in Fianarantsoa. In addition to her duties in the School, Miss Hare -also has the oversight of the wives of the students at the Theological -Seminary. The Paris Mission carries on the Boys’ High School and a -Normal School, to which the L. M. S. students go.</p> - -<p>About an hour’s journey from Fianarantsoa another fine example of -missionary activity is to be seen at the Leper Home, at a place -pathetically called “The Village<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span> of Hope.” This work was started by -Mrs. Huckett twenty years ago. My visit was a sad experience, and will -be an abiding memory. No leper who enters this home, in which there are -forty-three inmates, ever comes out again. The sufferers die, and are -buried in the grounds. My thoughts naturally carried me back to <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -Fowler’s Leper Home in Central China at Siao Kan. “The Village of Hope” -might well be called the “Village of Despair,” for maimed and missing -hands and feet told their tale only too plainly, and pitiable sores on -the legs and face were common. But without exception all the patients -seemed bright and happy, and one could not doubt the joy that had come -into the lives of the poor afflicted creatures, thirty-three of whom -were Church members, while others were enquirers. We visited the rooms -in which they live, and afterwards attended a pathetic and yet happy -meeting in the Chapel at which we all spoke. The lepers were genuinely -glad to see us and gave us a hearty welcome. After we left we could see -the whole community, standing in their white lambas just outside the -gate on the top of the hill, waving farewells to us for fully half an -hour.</p> - -<p>Thirty-two miles south of Fianarantsoa is the growing Government -town of Ambalavao, which is reached by pousse-pousse along another -well-engineered road through the mountains. As we approached the town -we were met by streams of natives, many gaily decorated, returning -from the annual three days’ fair. For many years Ambalavao was worked -from Ambohimandroso, but it has been a residential station since 1903 -under the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span> care of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> D. M. Rees, whose untiring efforts are -ably seconded by those of his wife, who has the great advantage of an -excellent knowledge of French. The Mission house is an old Malagasy -residence which has been enlarged. The Station Church is one of the -most handsome and best built churches in Madagascar. On the occasion -of our visit it was crowded to its utmost capacity by a gathering -representing the forty-four outstations in the district.</p> - -<p>Six miles south of Ambalavao is situated Ambohimandroso, the most -southerly station of the L. M. S., where the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> Thomas and Mrs. -Rowlands (who, like <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. Rees, keep up the connection between -Wales and Madagascar) have faithfully carried on work for the last -thirty-four years. At the bottom of the valley between the two stations -is a river which is crossed by a ferry, where I was met by a crowd -of school children who escorted me up the steep hill to the Mission -house, the boys assisting in propelling the pousse-pousse. Here again a -crowded and enthusiastic united meeting was held, with representatives -from most of the fifty-one out-stations connected with this Mission. -Schools were inspected, visits paid to some of the Native workers, -and other gatherings held. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> and Mrs. Rowlands find house-room for -a dozen girls from country districts who are attending school. Each -evening these girls file into the drawing-room for singing and prayer. -On the occasion of my visit they sang “Nearer my God to Thee” in -English. Then followed their salutation, “Good-night, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hawkins,” -with a curtsey. I replied,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span> “Good-night, girls; God bless you.” Then -came their answer, “Thank you, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hawkins.” The same formula is gone -through with “Madame” and “Sir.”</p> - -<p>The morning I left, the girls were up early to see me off, and stood in -a row alongside the filanjana. In a frivolous moment as I was leaving -I pretended to weep to express my sorrow at parting from them, and -off I went. Mrs. Rowlands told me a week or two afterwards that at -my departure all the girls had burst into tears and cried bitterly, -saying, “What a tender-hearted gentleman to cry when he leaves us. He -must be thinking of his own daughter in England who has dark hair and -dark eyes like us!”</p> - -<p>From Ambohimandroso I proceeded to the Society’s newest station -in Betsileo at Alakamisy Itenina, where since 1905 the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> D. D. -Green, another Welshman, has resided and superintended the work of -the thirty-seven outstations, of which this place is the centre. The -journey occupied all day, and the road lay amongst the mountains, -the views of the hills and clouds being magnificent. Several crowded -meetings were held at the station and at outstations. At one place the -crowd that had gathered together was three times as large as the Church -could contain, and the meeting was held in the open-air, in defiance, I -am afraid, of the French law. I stood under the shadow of the Church. -In the immediate foreground was the great congregation, some on the -seats which had been taken out of the Church, and some on the ground—a -very picturesque crowd in white and gaily-coloured lambas. Beyond the -worshippers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span> stretched a glorious vista of mountain and valley, rolling -away into “the purple distance fair,” with the brilliant sunshine -bathing all in a flood of golden light.</p> - -<p>The only residential station in Madagascar which I was unable to visit -was that at Ambohimahasoa, a town of growing importance, where the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> -Charles Collins has laboured for the last eleven years, superintending -from that centre thirty-eight outstations. Both my colleagues, however, -were able to visit it, and attended a large number of meetings there.</p> - -<p>The Society’s work in Betsileo is well organised, and has been carried -on for the last forty-three years with great and growing success. From -the centre at Fianarantsoa, over a wide-spreading district comprising -244 outstations, the Gospel has been faithfully preached, schools -have been conducted, Christian Endeavour Societies, Dorcas meetings, -and many other missionary activities have been carried on, and this -manifold work has been accomplished by means of a small European staff -which has never exceeded ten missionaries. Their efforts have been -seconded by a native staff of about fifty ordained pastors and 500 -preachers. The Church is a growing one, but much yet remains to be done -to complete the evangelization of the large territory in which the -Society is at work. Beyond to the south, as already mentioned, are the -unevangelized tribes of the Bara and Tanala districts, amongst whom up -to the present very little work has been done. But the future is rich -with promise, and if the existing work can be maintained and somewhat -extended, the Society<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span> will have a rich reward in building up a Native -Church so strong and so missionary, that before many years have passed -it will be able to carry the light into the dark places around.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX<br><span class="small"><b>Glad and Golden Days</b></span></h3></div> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spread the Light! Spread the Light!</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till earth’s remotest bounds have heard</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The glory of the Living Word;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till those that see not have their sight;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Till all the fringes of the night</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Are lifted, and the long-closed doors</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Are wide for ever to the Light.</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spread the Light!</span><br> -</p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O then shall dawn the golden days,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To which true hearts are pressing;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When earth’s discordant strains shall blend—</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The one true God confessing;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When Christly thought and Christly deed</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall bind each heart and nation,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In one Grand Brotherhood of Men,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And one high consecration.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><span class="smcap">John Oxenham.</span></span><br> -</p> - - -<p>After our return from Betsileo and our visitation of the Imerina -country stations, we spent three weeks in Tananarive to meet with the -missionaries in their District Committee, in order to consult together -as to the present position and future work. We also took part in a -Conference with the representatives of all the Protestant Missionary -Societies at work in the island, and attended the great half-yearly -meeting of the native Christians known as the Isan-Enim-Bolana.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span> It -is not the purpose of this record of travel to discuss questions -of missionary politics, or to deal with matters considered at the -Joint Conference. Suffice it to say that the intercourse with the -missionaries of our own and other Societies during those closing weeks -of our stay was a time of happy fellowship. In the interludes between -more serious work delightful social receptions and garden parties were -organised by several of the Missions, and we enjoyed the hospitality of -the Bishop of Madagascar and of our French and Norwegian friends.</p> - -<p>There was one gathering, however, of very special interest to us, as -representatives of the L. M. S. On September 30th it was our privilege -to take part in the celebration of the jubilee of the landing at -Tamatave of our honoured veteran missionary, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> James Sibree. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Sibree, as he was then, went out to Madagascar as architect of the -Memorial Churches to be erected in Tananarive in commemoration of the -martyrs “faithful unto death,” who lost their lives during the time -of persecution. These Churches remain until this day, not only as -memorials to the martyrs, but as monuments to the taste and skill of -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Sibree as an architect. But his services in this direction have not -been confined to the Memorial Churches. In after years to the present -time he has prepared the plans of upwards of 40 Churches in different -parts of Madagascar.</p> - -<p>But <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree will leave behind him, when the time comes for him to -bid farewell to Madagascar, a more enduring memorial than churches -of brick and stone.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span> When he had completed the task which originally -took him to the island he returned to England, and, after taking -his theological course at Spring Hill, went back to Madagascar as a -clerical missionary, and from that day to this, with ceaseless energy -and devotion, he has been engaged in building the Invisible Church, “a -house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens.”</p> - -<p>The epitaph upon the tomb of another architect, Sir Christopher Wren, -in <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Paul’s Cathedral, “Si monumentum requiris circumspice,” is -equally applicable to <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree, for no missionary has left behind -him in Madagascar a more enduring memorial of his life and work than -will <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree. His energies, too, have found an outlet in other -directions. His most conspicuous service to the Mission has been -rendered in connection with the training of preachers and pastors. -For upwards of thirty years he has been associated with the Society’s -Theological College in Tananarive, and during that period several -hundred students have received the benefit of his instruction and -influence. As a writer of books and articles he has given to the world -much information, not only with regard to Madagascar, but also with -regard to the Cathedrals of the Homeland. The articles on Madagascar -in the last two editions of the Encyclopedia Britannica have come from -his pen, and he is a recognised authority on all matters relating to -the island. He has rendered invaluable service as a translator, and -especially in the revision of the Malagasy Scriptures. He does not know -what it is to be idle. In his seventy-seventh year he is an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span> example -and a rebuke to men of half his age; from early morning until late at -night he is always at work.</p> - -<p><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Sibree has, throughout his missionary life, been ably seconded -and supported in all his “works of faith and labours of love” by his -devoted wife, to whom the women and girls of Ambohimanga, and, in later -years, of Tananarive, owe so much. As I have already mentioned, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> and -Mrs. Sibree have given four children to missionary work. Two of their -daughters, Mrs. Milledge and Miss Elsie Sibree are to-day rendering -fine service to the kingdom in Madagascar.</p> - -<p>On the Jubilee day a great gathering of missionaries was held -in Faravohitra Church in honour of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> and Mrs. Sibree. Several -presentations were made to them from the Directors of our Society, from -their fellow missionaries and from the missionaries of other Societies, -in recognition of the services they have rendered, and of the respect, -esteem and affection in which they are held. It is said that never -before in the history of Madagascar has such a large gathering of -missionaries taken place. Later in the same day a reception and garden -party were held, at which even a larger number of the missionary -community were present to celebrate the occasion. A few days afterwards -a great gathering of past and present students of the Theological -College met to offer their tribute of gratitude and esteem to the -missionary who had trained so many of the preachers, pastors, and -evangelists, now engaged in the evangelization of the island.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img012"> -<img src="images/012.jpg" class="w50" alt="Dr. and Mrs. Sibree"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><span class="smcap"><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> and Mrs. Sibree.</span></p> - - -<p>Only a passing reference can be made to the meetings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span> of the Joint -Conference. This gathering was unique, for it is believed that never -before in the history of the Christian Church have all the Protestant -Missionary Societies at work in a mission field appointed simultaneous -deputations to unite with the missionaries on the spot to study in -common the problems and needs of the field, and to plan together -for its evangelization. Many matters of common interest to all the -Societies were considered, and important discussions were held with -the Malagasy Christian leaders. The subjects of the evangelization of -the island, the work of delimitation, education, the social and moral -condition of the people, the recrudescence of heathenism, the growth -of atheism and agnosticism, and many other questions vitally affecting -the life of the people and the growth of the Church came up for -discussion. The meetings were held in the beautiful French Protestant -Church in Tananarive in the early days of October. The tone and spirit -which prevailed throughout the deliberations were of the highest. The -Conference owed much to its Chairman, M. le Pasteur Couve, who presided -throughout with wisdom, tact, patience and good humour. The holding -of such a Conference in which High Anglican, Lutheran, Quaker and -Congregationalist, British, French, Norwegian, and American took an -equal part, was a remarkable evidence of the growth of the spirit of -comity and co-operation in the mission field.</p> - -<p>But amongst the many vivid experiences of those crowded closing days -in Tananarive, the most lasting impression was that made by the great -meetings of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span> Isan-Enim-Bolana. This institution is a federation -of the Imerina Churches of the L. M. S., F. F. M. A., and P. M. S., -and it holds a warm place in the regard and affection of the Malagasy -Christians. Moreover, it is a Missionary Society and sends its own -native missionaries into the outlying districts in the North where, -but for its efforts, there would be no Christian work carried on. It -is the child of the London Missionary Society, and came into being in -the year 1868. Since then it has met every half-year in the Capital, -and its gatherings are always marked with a spirit of great earnestness -and enthusiasm. It met in October, and high as our expectations -were from what we had heard, the gatherings surpassed all that our -imagination had pictured. On Wednesday afternoon, October 8th, five -preaching services were held at the same hour in five of the largest -Churches in the Capital, and these were followed by two great meetings -in connection with the Christian Endeavour Societies. Perhaps a short -account of my own experiences at the Isan-Enim-Bolana, which were -similar to those of my fellow-delegates, will convey some impression -of the character of these Meetings. I was taking lunch with a party -of French Missionaries, when M. Pierre de Seynes came to tell me that -the French Church in which I was to speak was already crowded to its -utmost limits, although it was nearly two hours before the time for -the commencement of the service. On reaching the Church an hour and -a half later I had the greatest difficulty in effecting an entrance. -There was a dense crowd round the door of those who could not find -room.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span> It required great care to walk up the aisle without treading -upon the women, who were sitting on the ground two abreast. The great -congregation occupied every foot of available space; the floor of the -chancel was packed, and men were sitting on the communion rails, on the -top of the harmonium, and on the pulpit steps. Moreover, there were -groups of people round the numerous open windows on the ground floor, -and the gallery and the steps leading to it were likewise crowded. The -scene from the pulpit can never be forgotten. The contrast between the -black hair, brown faces and white lambas of the worshippers formed a -striking picture. Pastor Rabary, the Chairman of the Isan-Enim-Bolana, -translated for me. The vigorous action and fine declamation of the -interpreter, combined with the inspiration which one receives from the -enthusiasm and devoutness of a great audience, had their effect upon -the quieter methods of the more phlegmatic Englishman, and I found -myself moved to speak with a force and earnestness rarely experienced -before. My address was followed by what I am told was an eloquent -sermon by one of the ablest of the younger Malagasy leaders, Pastor -Rakotonirainy, who is also a successful master in one of the F. F. M. -A. Schools. As soon as the service was over the congregation hurried -away to a great Christian Endeavour meeting at Ampamarinana, where -the Church was already packed. An overflow meeting was arranged to be -held in the Church which we had just left, and in a few moments that -building was again filled to overflowing, and I was called upon to give -another address, which was translated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span> by Pastor Razafimahefa, who -interprets from both French or English into Malagasy with wonderful -force and fluency.</p> - -<p>But the greatest gatherings took place on the following morning. At -6 o’clock seven of the most spacious Churches were thronged to their -utmost capacity, some having arrived at 4 a.m. to secure a seat for -the meetings, which were not to commence till four hours later. I -was appointed to speak at the great meeting for men in the spacious -Ampamarinana Church, which had for hours been filled to overflowing. -As soon as I had spoken I was hurried away in a chair to an overflow -meeting in a neighbouring Church, and, having spoken there, went on to -Faravohitra Church, which was crowded with women, where my address was -translated by Mrs. Milledge, who speaks Malagasy like a native. The -service at this Church was concluded by eleven o’clock. Then came one -of the characteristic features of the meetings of the Isan-Enim-Bolana. -It is the practice for the Mother Churches in the Capital to entertain -the delegates from the various Daughter Churches in the country. I -went to Analakely, where some 1,400 people sat down in five relays -to abundant meals of rice and meat prepared by their hosts. The same -gracious hospitality was shown in each of the Mother Churches of -Tananarive. After attending such gatherings one wonders whether there -is any place in the world, unless it is Korea, where such great crowds -gather for Christian worship.</p> - -<p>The hearts of sympathetic visitors to Madagascar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span> are often thrilled -at these manifest signs of the Divine blessing upon the work of the -Missionaries, but very little investigation shows that there is another -side to the picture, and that the young Malagasy Church needs all its -zeal and courage to face the difficulties and dangers with which it is -surrounded. Apart from the experience which unfortunately is common in -all Christian communities, that practice does not always correspond -with profession, the Malagasy Christians have special difficulties of -their own which confront the growing Church. They have to face the -temptations which beset a backward race living in the tropics, and the -struggle with sensualism and immorality is a severe one.</p> - -<p>Moreover, in recent years materialism and agnosticism have come -into the land like a flood, and tax to the uttermost the wisdom and -consecration of the Christian workers in the island. Again, it must be -remembered that the activities of the Church are being carried on in -an unsympathetic environment, for apart from the deadening influence -of the native heathenism amidst which the Church is at work, the -unfriendly attitude towards religion of the French official class is -felt on every hand. Again, on the north-east and north-west coasts the -menace of the advance of Islam is increasingly felt, and already there -are at least 75,000 Moslems in the country, professing a degraded type -of Mohammedanism and introducing many vices, especially drunkenness -and immorality. It will be a surprise to many to know that during the -recent Balkan war a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span> collection was made in Madagascar to help the -Turks to fight “the vile Christians.”</p> - -<p>With these and other difficulties confronting the young Malagasy -Church, it will be readily understood that the battle is by no means -won. Moreover, much of the field has, up to the present, not been -occupied by the Christian army, and great is the work remaining to be -accomplished.</p> - -<p>If one stands on the verandah of “the House of Sweet Breezes” at -Anjozorobe, the Society’s most northern station, and turn one’s eyes -to the north, there is a stretch of country extending well-nigh 500 -miles to Diego Suarez. In this vast district, the area of which exceeds -that of England and Wales, there is at the present time but one white -missionary. It is true that some dozen native missionaries, sent out -by the Isan-Enim-Bolana of Imerina, are at work in this territory, -and many of these men are carrying on their missionary labours with -energy and devotion, but without any European supervision. The Native -Missionary organisation which sent them forth would welcome such -supervision, and would be prepared to send more labourers into the -vineyard, if well-trained men were available for service. In the near -future the main work of the European missionary must be the training -of the Native missionary. As the Church at the centre grows and -multiplies, and becomes stronger and more efficient, the need of the -presence of a large number of European missionaries will gradually -diminish. The test of the success of their work will be that they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span> have -made themselves unnecessary. As the College in Tananarive attracts -and trains and sets to work Christian Natives of good education -and apostolic fervour, so the work now carried on by the European -missionaries will steadily pass into the hands of the Native Pastors, -and, under the blessing of God, the day will come in the not distant -future when the foreign worker will be able to withdraw, having -completed his task.</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“And lo! already on the hills</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The flags of dawn appear;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gird up your loins, ye prophet souls,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Proclaim the day is near;</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The day in whose clear-shining light</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">All wrong shall stand revealed,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When justice shall be clothed with might,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And every hurt be healed:</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When knowledge, hand in hand with peace,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Shall walk the earth abroad,—</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The day of perfect righteousness,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The promised day of God.”</span><br> -</p> - - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH LANDS THAT WERE DARK ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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