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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a186021 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69179 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69179) diff --git a/old/69179-0.txt b/old/69179-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3710644..0000000 --- a/old/69179-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7189 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Western Africa, vol. II (of -2), by John Duncan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels in Western Africa, vol. II (of 2) - -Author: John Duncan - -Release Date: October 18, 2022 [eBook #69179] - -Language: English - -Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AFRICA, -VOL. II (OF 2) *** - - - - - - [Illustration: - - From a Sketch by Duncan. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. - - MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS - CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD.] - - - - - TRAVELS - - IN WESTERN AFRICA, - - 1845 & 1846, - - COMPRISING - - A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH, - THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY, - TO ADOFOODIA, - IN THE INTERIOR. - - BY JOHN DUNCAN, - LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE - LATE NIGER EXPEDITION. - - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - VOL. II. - - - LONDON: - RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, - Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty. - 1847. - - - - - LONDON: - R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL. II. - - - CHAPTER I. - - The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its - Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity - Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa, or - Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The - Plain set on fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley of - Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic - Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by the - Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons of - the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds - of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with - the Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The - Markets--Guinea Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native - Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration - of my Sword--Review of native Soldiers--Population. PAGE 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of - Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Adita--Soil--The - Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo - Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent - of the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular - Situation of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable - Origin of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance, - assumed or real, of the neighbouring Country by the - Natives--The Dabadab Mountains--Superstition--Singular - Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty to the Brute Creation--Difficult - Descent--Agriculture and Manufactures--Height of - the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo--Names of - the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of Caboceer - and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic - Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits, - &c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods - exposed for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial - of Skill--Dog poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The - Caboceer’s principal Cook 27 - - - CHAPTER III. - - The River Loto--Jokao Mountain--Jetta--Reception by the - Caboceer--Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko--Its curious Formation--Its - former Importance on account of its Manufactures--Desolating - Effects of War--Attachment of the Natives - to particular Spots--Natural Tanks in the Mountains--Mount - Koliko--Precipitous Granite Rock--Similarity to Scottish - Scenery--The Nanamie--Laow, and the Laow Mountain--Kossieklanan - Cascade--Tamargee Mountains--Mineral Spring--Mount - Koglo--Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer--Whagba--Caboceer’s - Hospitality--the Town--Inhabitants--Kindness - of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo--War-Dance--Drunkenness--Names - of the Caboceer, &c.--Game--Curious Pigeons--An - Incident--Absurd Notion--Departure from Whagba--Names - of the Caboceer, &c.--Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow - and Massey--Beautiful Valley--Impregnable Position--The - Caboceer of Kpaloko--Grandeur of the Scene--Jeka Houssoo--The - Dabadab Mountains--Difficulty in obtaining Information--Resolve - to leave my Attendants--My Scheme--Departure--Zafoora--Soil, - Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.--Shea-butter used for Lamps 55 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My - Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver - with the King--Scene of the Defeat of the - Dahomans--Inhospitality--The Shea-butter, and other Trees--The - Gwbasso--Prevalent Diseases--Soil--The Velvet - Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold Reception - by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard - Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King - Chosee and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment - of Danger--Result of a Firm Demeanour--Respect - shown by the King and Natives--Enter Koma with a Band of - Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the King’s Wives--Palaver - with the King--The Niger known here as the Joleeba--Presents - to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges for - Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle - of the Caboceer--Slave Market--Trade Monopolized by the - Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the - Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous - Confusion--Inhospitality 80 - - - CHAPTER V. - - Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn - of Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures, - &c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market Day--Curiosity - of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables, their - Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the - Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm - Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain - Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market - price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method - of Drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror - of the Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents - to the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width, - &c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring - Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native - Furnace and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac 108 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Peculiar Breed of Dogs--The Town of Zabakano--Market Day--Native - Manufactures--Domestic Slaves--Palm Oil--Joleeba, or Niger--Horses - make part of the Family--Pelican Nest--Pigeons--Kindness - of the Gadadoo--Pigeon Shooting--Palaver - with the Gadadoo--Population--Mounted Soldiers--Character - of the Scenery--Grooba--Manufactures--The - Town of Sagbo--Drilling System general here--Two sorts - of Rice--Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp--Palaver--Dromedary - and Elephant--Prevalent Diseases--The - Town of Jakee--Reception--Ancient Custom--Breakfast of - the Natives--Manufactures--Terror of the Natives--Chalybeate - Springs--The River Jenoo--The Land Tortoise--Interesting Panorama--The - Town of Kallakandi--Reception by the Sheik--Palaver--Band of - Musicians--Peculiar Instruments--Manufactures, &c.--Slave - Market--Horses--Laws--Cruel Punishment--Population--Attack on a - Boa-Constrictor--Manufactures--Deer--Method of Preserving Meat and - Fish--Trap for Wild Animals--Town of Ongo--Reception by the - Caboceer--Interesting Aspect of the Country 136 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Ongo--Weariness of my Attendants--Bivouac--Alarm of my - Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts--Terror of the - Natives--Their Kindness--Establishment for Mahomedan - Converts--Singular Custom--My Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea, - who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park--Loss of my - Sand-glass--Its Construction--Adofoodia--The Market-Place--Reception - by the King--Interview with Terrasso-weea--Ceremony of welcoming - me--His Stores--Discovery of an Old Acquaintance--Narrative of his - Adventures--Terrasso-weea’s House--His Wives--Inquire of him - Particulars of the Fate of Mungo Park--His Relation of the Death - of that Intrepid Traveller--Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of - it--Park’s Property seized by the King--His Despotic Character--Flight - of Terrasso-weea--My Palaver with the King--Hospitality - of the Merchant--Information obtained respecting - Timbuctoo--Market of Adofoodia 163 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Return to Baffo--Anxiety of my Caboceer--Rejoicings for my - Return--Our March--Fine Plain--Plants--Neutral Ground--Natives - of the Dassa Mountains--Agriculture--The Annagoos, - dangerous Enemies--Poisoned Arrows--Poisonous Plants--Alarm - of my Attendants on my plucking it--Fatal Effects of - this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives--Number of the - Natives Blind, supposed to be the result of it--Unsuccessful - Attack on them by the Dahomans--Spiral Rocks--Hostile - Demeanour of the Natives--They follow us with Menaces--Some - Account of these Mountaineers and of the Dassa Mountains--The - Blue Eagle--Cataracts--Beautiful Plain--One - of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier--Twisted Marble of Variegated - Colours--Path covered with Pepper-trees--Monkeys--Logazohy--Mayho’s - Town--The Caboceer--The Merchants--Their Names--Carelessness with - respect to Fire--Visit of the Caboceer 190 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Enter Logazohy in Regimentals--Received by the Caboceer, - attended by his Soldiers--Singular Mode of Dancing--Native - Jester--Description of the Town--Corn Mills--Presents from - Fetish-women--Agriculture--Prevalent Diseases--A disgusting - Case of Leprosy--Quarrel among my Carriers--My Illness--The - Damadomy--Trees, Shrubs--The Agbado--Rapid Construction of a - Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman Guards--Savalu--Reception by the - Caboceer--Picturesque Situation of the Town--Caboceer’s House--His - Wives--His Jester--My Illness 210 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the natives--State - Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to the - Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by - Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those of - his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim - across the Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty - in getting my Horse across--Fearlessness of the - Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad Roads--Jallakoo--Reception - by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in Regimentals before - the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my Illness--Description - of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and - those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer 229 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - My continued Illness--The Koffo--The Langhbo--Bivouac--Keep - Sentinel--Shea-butter Trees--Springs impregnated with - Iron--Gijah--Poverty of the Caboceer--Hospitality of Atihoh, - the Merchant--Doko--Met by the Avoga of Whydah--Etiquette - with regard to the Time of entering a Town--Enter - Abomey--My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed--Sudden - Change in the Temperature--Visit to the King--His Gratification - at my safe Return--My Conversation with his Majesty--His Views with - regard to the Slave Trade--His Desire to cede Whydah to the English - Government--Dictates a Letter to me to that effect--His costly - Tobes--Singular Piece of Patch-Work 253 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued--Visit Coomassie, - another Palace of the King--Great Number of Human - Skulls--Skulls of Kings taken in Battle--Death-drums--Peculiarity - of Skulls--Craniums of the Fellattahs--Skulls of - Rival Kings--Criminal Case heard by the King, and his - Award--Death of my Servant Maurice--Regret of the King--Christian - Burial of my Servant--The King’s Kindness to me--My - increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits--Method of Procuring - Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers--My Alarm - at the Dangerous State of my Wound--Make Preparations to amputate my - Limb--My Recovery--My Last Conversation with the King--The King’s - Presents to the Queen of England--Present from him to her Majesty of - a Native Girl--Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for - Whydah--Absurd Custom--Canamina--Ahgrimah--My Pigeons from the Kong - Mountains--Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers--Punishment - awarded them for their Roguery on their Arrival 273 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of - my Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by - Don Francisco de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting - Interview with M. de Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee - Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival - at Cape Coast--Kindness of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my - Fever--Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of - Africans--Hints with regard to Educating them--Observations on the - Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah - Countries--Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey--The - Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The Mahees--The Kong - Mountains--Sail for England 293 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMEY _To face the Title._ - - THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF LOGAZOHY p. 219 - - - Wood Cuts. - - STATE CHAIR OF THE KING OF DAHOMEY 272 - - THE KING’S STAFF 272 - - - - - TRAVELS - - IN - - WESTERN AFRICA. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its - Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity - Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa, - or Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The - Plain set on Fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley - of Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic - Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by - the Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons - of the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds - of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with the - Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The Markets--Guinea - Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native - Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration of my Sword--Review of native - Soldiers--Population. - - -July 11th.--We marched from Setta at 8 A.M., the first high land -bearing from the north side of the town N. 25° E., and named the -Zafidah mountains, distant about twelve miles. These mountains form -the western extremity of a range, running as far to the eastward as -the eye can reach. The path led directly to these mountains, and the -surrounding country was of a beautiful champaign character, studded at -considerable intervals with trees of various descriptions. - -About half a mile from Setta, and journeying N.E., we crossed a fine -brook with a waterfall. The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz, -in immense detached blocks, the brook running eastward. Close to this -ford is a small kroom, called Zoogah; and although we had come so -short a distance the old patriarch or caboceer had provided plenty of -provisions for myself and private servants, with water and peto. The -poor man also presented me with several fowls. He told me that the -people of his small town had made a subscription and purchased these -fowls to offer to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a present, -although they were anxious to show their good feeling towards the -King’s white stranger. He had told them what I had said at Setta to -the old woman (for he was present on that occasion) who presented me -with the two eggs. The kindness shown towards me now formed a perfect -contrast to that which I had experienced on the coast, where the -character and disposition of the people are vile. I gave the caboceer -some needles and thimbles, with directions to distribute them amongst -his people. - -At four miles from this place we arrived at a small kroom of about -three hundred inhabitants, called Bamay. Here is a good market, which -is held weekly: it happened to be held on this day. The caboceer was -waiting in the market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur. Here -we had plenty of good water and provisions. The caboceer seemed highly -delighted at receiving a visit from a white man, and introduced me -to all his head men and principal wives. The people assembled in the -market-place all came running, pushing each other aside, with eager -curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the market, which is shaded with -large trees, called by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling -cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe; kao (saltpetre -in its original state) which is found in the mountains; different -sorts of grain produced in the country; tobacco, and pipes made at -Badagry, much resembling the head of the German pipe, but of red clay; -shalots and vegetables of various sorts for soups, and also manioc -or cassada-root ready cooked; with yams, plantains, and bananas, -oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo -and pepper; snuff is also sold here. Butcher’s meat is exposed for -sale early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly it is cooked -in the market-place, to prevent putrefaction. Sheep and goats are sold -in the market, but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock in the -market in any part of Africa, except at Tangiers. Fowls and eggs, and -agricultural implements of various descriptions, are also sold in all -the markets of any magnitude in this part of the country. Here the land -is well cultivated, and the crops are very good. - -This kroom contains about six hundred inhabitants, who are evidently of -a different tribe to the people of Whydah. They are much better formed -and more nimble, and apparently more capable of enduring fatigue than -the natives on the coast. After distributing some small presents and -some rum to the caboceer, we resumed our journey. - -At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic) E.S.E. the Davity -mountains are seen. These mountains form a range extending from east -to west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are separated by a -narrow plain from another range of mountains, distant about two miles. -Both ranges are of conical or hogback character. At the distance of -four miles and a half we reached Daragow, a small kroom of about three -hundred inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the caboceer, whose name -was Badykpwa, a fine stout old man of about fifty-five years of age. - -The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in nearly all the kingdoms -and petty states of Western and Central Africa, are, that he should -be tall and stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many African -kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by the length and thickness of the -beard. - -At six miles we reached the banks of the river Zoa, here forty yards -wide and seven feet deep. It is very muddy, for it is now the rainy -season. Large blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed of the -river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The current is about two miles -per hour, running (magnetic) E.S.E. The banks are thirty feet deep, -and wooded on each bank with trees of gigantic size, whose enormous -roots extend in all directions. The greater number of these roots run -along the surface, in most cases crossing and re-crossing each other, -presenting the appearance of network. Their trunks are buttressed -all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At about eight feet from -the ground the buttresses, which so far are straight, break off in -different directions, crossing each other around the trunk, like a -number of large serpents wattled across each other. I did not observe -any trees of the same description at a distance from the rivers. - -At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is left here for the use -of passengers. By order of the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying -goods are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here we were detained -for some time, the canoe not being capable of conveying more than ten -persons without luggage at a time. I remained till all the party had -been ferried over, except the caboceer, or captain, and the other -principal officers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain begged me -to sit in the bottom of the canoe with my face towards the stern, so -that in crossing I was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated with him -on the absurdity of doing so, he declared it to be “bad fetish” for any -great man in crossing water to look in the direction he is proceeding, -assuring me also that he was answerable for my safety, and that should -anything of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should be severely -punished, or if any thing should occur to my personal injury he should -lose his head. When I found the poor fellow, who was under these -restrictions, felt distressed at the observations I had made, I readily -assented to all his instructions and directions. My little horse swam -across, tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in getting it -across. - -This river is the same as the river Lagos at Badagry on the coast, -although here called the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over Africa -where I have yet been. I am also informed that this same river has two -other distinct names, between this place and the place where it takes -the name of Lagos, which fully accounts for many supposed errors of our -travellers, as well as many errors in fact. - -Our party having now all safely crossed the river, we immediately -resumed our journey amongst thickets of underwood scarcely passable, -the bushes having closed in and across the path, and joined over the -narrow sheep-track for such it really was. After travelling half a -mile, the path became more open, and we suddenly came upon a small lake -or pond, apparently of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily -sprinkled over its surface. The sight of these beautiful flowers, -coming upon us so unexpectedly, created a very pleasing sensation, for -they were exactly the same as the water-lily of England. - -The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less -irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been -recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was -informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the -extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of -destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable, -and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree, -which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed -its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no -cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and -a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running -to the eastward. - -At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my -guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of -various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a -partridge’s wing, were at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now -begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed -quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had -crossed the Zoa. - -At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running -eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a -stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed -to NN.W., passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the -western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot, -and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred -inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division -between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains, -at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high -mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed -to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we -had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the -character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a -number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of -character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned -of our approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path -awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our -refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part, -I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here -the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the -mountains. - -The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches -in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent -manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the -King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey -during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter -place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my -treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched -orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s -orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized -respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had -given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my -treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah, -and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender -to the Dahomans. - -The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy -part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance -against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having -possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures -and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances. -Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their -besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and -were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains -at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest -season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these -mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they -can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with -the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to -surrender to their enemies, at discretion. - -These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other -produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though -in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use -the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of -firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The old caboceer and my -guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley -and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers -were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred -individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have -perished. - -After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and -my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the -mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I -should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not -wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer -took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up; -and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip. -In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, -with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous -amongst the branches. - -After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of -the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town. -This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of -war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human -skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls -of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been -used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater -part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of -the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and -described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description. -The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with -those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with -bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;[1] and -the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its -effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even -while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the -remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very -probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this -mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or -patakoo, the name given to it by the natives. - -This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep, -composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from -another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle -of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are -very steep,--in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the -plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains. - -After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party -refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of -intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor -man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay -his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some -small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our -journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents. -Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak, -which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived -after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed -walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled -him to ride. - -The path was now very deeply worn with the heavy rains, a stream -pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving -only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant. -The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in -the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.W.). The plain at -intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some -round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have -observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable -soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and -resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron -rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its -own level while in a state of fusion. - -The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I -observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica -in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition -of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble, -of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the -caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some -considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie -and peto. We again stopped for some time, and made inquiry respecting -the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any -information respecting any other locality than their own immediate -vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a -small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed -our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully -impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is -beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities, -and numerous small brooks. - -The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is -much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this -locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular -rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in -one year. - -At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we -changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with -water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty -miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east. -At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance -of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in -Africa where I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some -Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height, -the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle, -sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as -well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove -abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and -villages. - -At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large -town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with -several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the -caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and -accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with -the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the -surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer -here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding -mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly -seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast. - -The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us -into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under -several large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we -seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the -King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash -of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was -passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony -was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far -distant. - -The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently -I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a -fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and -manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples, -narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head -the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however, -possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and -appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us. -Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for -myself and people. - -After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the -principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon -this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and distributed -amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so -fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting -England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative, -and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his -own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of -course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality. - -In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the -coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor, -and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing -about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which -was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired. - -July 12th.--Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer -with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments, -desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the -messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat -train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small -calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and -a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled -forms a gelatinous substance, and is very strengthening. This dish -is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted -to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left -yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present -of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was -an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when -I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I -presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned -home rejoicing. - -After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk round his town with -him--seeming anxious to gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of -the King’s stranger. This was just what I wished, as I was anxious to -acquire as much information as possible during the short time I had to -spare. Accordingly we visited the markets, which were well supplied -with provisions and articles of manufacture. I noticed amongst other -things some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native cloth, of various -quality and colours, was exposed for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very -abundant in the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets in all the -towns in the vicinity. It is used as medicine, and, as in England, is -much in requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various species are -sold in the market, also nuts of various sorts, as well as different -kinds of beans and peas. Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood, -and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester bushel. The corn is -now nearly ripe, and some of the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet -high, so that the town is entirely concealed until the fence, which -invariably encloses the African towns on the plain, is passed. The -prickly bush at Abomey is planted like a double hedge round the town, -and is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it would seem a -matter of impossibility ever to break through it. The female soldiers -of Dahomey, however, as I have already mentioned, are capable of taking -one of these towns with apparently little trouble. - -The owners of the numerous herds of cattle keep them in folds or pens -in the town, and the dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent -farmers, even in this remote part, where they never can have had -intercourse with any civilized being. They also manufacture very -good cloth, although their method is certainly tedious, the thread -being spun by the distaff, and their loom being of a very simple -construction, though upon the same principle as our linen looms in -England. Their web is necessarily narrow, not exceeding six inches. As -they have not yet found out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand -the reel through the shade from one side to the other in putting in the -weft; and instead of treadles to set the foot upon, they use two loops, -which are suspended from the treadles, into which they put their big -toes, which act upon the same principle as the treadle. The warp is not -rolled round a beam, as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length, -and the farther end is made fast to a large stone or heavy substance, -which is gradually drawn towards the weaver as he progresses in his -work. - -Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and is worked with -considerable skill. Their implements for agricultural purposes are much -superior to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet potatoes, yams, -and manioc or cassada, are cultivated here with great success. - -The different articles sold in the market are nearly the same as I have -already mentioned at Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a patakoo or -large hyæna trap, from the simplicity of its construction. It is about -twenty feet long and two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong. -The trap is constructed upon the same principle as some of those used -in England for catching various sorts of vermin without destroying or -injuring them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage in the trap, at -the farthest extremity from the entrance, and the hyæna, or panther, -(whichever may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of the -kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on a board with a string -attached, the other end of which is connected with a trigger which -suspends a sliding door. Upon the trigger being pulled, the sliding -door immediately drops and incloses the animal. It is then sometimes -maimed or baited with dogs. - -Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned to our quarters, when it -was soon afterwards brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three -goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which were served up in -excellent style, with plenty of dabadab and kankie, and round balls -of cakes made with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together with -abundance of peto. - -After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to see me in uniform, -and wished also that the ceremony of receiving me on entering his town -should be repeated as the King’s stranger, similar to my reception on -the previous evening. This requisition was not very agreeable to me, as -my white man Maurice was still very ill and in low spirits. However, I -prepared myself soon after dinner, and mounted my little charger. The -caboceer examined my horse and accoutrements very minutely, as also -my appointments. My sword, large knife, as they called it, excited -much admiration from its brightness, and above all, for its pliability -in bending and again resuming its original form. Their short swords -are made of iron, but have no spring in them. He next examined my -double-barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the percussion -caps, believing that the cap alone was also the charge, no doubt from -its loud report. After explaining it to him, he seemed much gratified. - -We then proceeded out of the town, one half of my guard in front, -and the other in my rear, with the caboceer’s soldiers in rear of -the whole, one half of whom were armed with bows and arrows. After -proceeding about half a mile from the town into an open piece of ground -not planted with corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham fight, -which, although it did not display any great complication of manœuvres, -was interesting from the quickness of their motions, and significant -gestures. - -After the review was over, we returned to the market-place, when all my -soldiers commenced dancing. This was kept up alternately by my guard, -and the soldiers belonging to the town. In this country each caboceer -invariably keeps a clown or jester, many of whom are clever and amusing -on account of their ready wit. After the dance, which lasted about two -hours, I gave each of the party some rum, which is always expected -on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters, accompanied by the -caboceer, who seemed very anxious to maintain a friendly conversation, -evidently with a view to obtain information on general topics. He -remained till a late hour, when he retired to his home, leaving me once -more to enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen, and to take -notes for my Journal. - -The town of Paweea contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants. They -seem rather an industrious race in comparison with those near the -coast. Here, as well as in most other towns in the neighbourhood, the -mechanic is very much esteemed on account of his craft, but especially -the blacksmith, who in their own language is called a cunning man, -ranking next to the fetish-man or priest. The soil round this place is -a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered, consequently, the crops -are abundant, and the people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but -little labour. They seem a very happy race, and well satisfied with -their present government and laws, which, previous to their subjection -to the King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in the extreme. This -town has two strong gates on the south-east and north-west sides, which -are closed at sunset, and guarded by soldiers or watchmen, who take -that duty in turn. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers, that I -have had a large quantity taken from a very severe wound I received -when in the Niger expedition. Dr. Williams and Dr. Thompson can -corroborate my assertion. The African fly blows live maggots instead of -eggs. - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of - Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Aditay--Soil--The - Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo - Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent of - the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular Situation - of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable Origin - of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance, assumed or - real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives--The Dabadab - Mountains--Superstition--Singular Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty - to the Brute Creation--Difficult Descent--Agriculture and - Manufactures--Height of the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at - Zoglogbo--Names of the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of - Caboceer and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic - Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits, - &c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods exposed - for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial of Skill--Dog - poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The Caboceer’s principal - Cook. - - -SUNDAY, July 13th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me -plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness -to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to -partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of -meal and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the -consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in -England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very -much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but -he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so -often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the -market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was -a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself. - -After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on -our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town, -where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s -household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering -something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard -communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would -honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book. -This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest -honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I -readily acceded; and in a short time had all their names registered in -my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given -by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call -each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me; -but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed -surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over -the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure -from the town of Paweea. - -I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:-- - - Caboceer’s name Terrasso-Weea. - 1st Head man Adah. - 2d do. Chaaoulong. - 4th do. Daowdie. - 5th do. Avamagbadjo. - 6th Head Musician Hawsoo-Agwee.[2] - -The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people -with provisions and peto at Paweea[3] were:-- - - Tossau. - Yakie. - Bowka. - Adassie. - Howta. - Kossau. - Nookodoo. - -We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of -the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay. -Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several -large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a -temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country -which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held -without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering -the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their -own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native -manufacture. - -About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and -at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E. -and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea. -The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and -other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared -stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer -approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the -water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the -tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the -softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon -becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking -the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated. - -At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded -with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed -the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue -granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the -season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, -capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing -changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The -temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil -of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the -river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a -gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery. - -At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, -and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing -N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the -mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in -the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well -as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three -feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are -inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called -water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four -different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest -of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also -very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same -height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed. - -At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a -splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high -on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the -market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain -of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of -Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. -He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of -age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, -and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within -about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the -caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, -together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, -throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. -My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms -of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and -delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they -constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to -the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie -seemed very fond. - -We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or -fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large -cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the -rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing -amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their -flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the -mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, -and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone -which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend -with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in -front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as -occasion required. - -After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the -gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, -strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much -easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so -that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above -twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the -town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of -the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are -thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses -are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a -tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected -with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal -merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of -squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are -frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also -occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own -families. Indeed, as I have already observed, they work together in -cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment. - -The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary -utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were -brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness -of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention -were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young -man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent -African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity -in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and -Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to -chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less -than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any -combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey, -although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present -government and new laws. - -After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied -with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down -and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at -being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities -of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready cooked. Being -rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again -joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders -from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto. - -It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged -to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing -upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while -conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain -backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether -this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance -with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard, -I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the -fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and -rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered -alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and -introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given -him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up, -and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable -evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night. - -July 14th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay -me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he -had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and -soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great -beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately -amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre -of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some -volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E. extreme of a range of -mountains running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of that range. The -grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of -the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of -the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the -rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be -of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my -great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from -the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the -bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the -mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I -found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had been carried up into the -mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they -had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of -different shrubs and stunted trees. - -After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo, -where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country. -At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful -and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high, -named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are -three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape -and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he -denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked -several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed -to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so -near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or -even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan -priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the -Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling -made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the height -by the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was -quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any -person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid -every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one -of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself -took the other. - -The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When -I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the -distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders -that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things, -it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After -descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place, -where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one -of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was -presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all -the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in -which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal -together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry -the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole -resting on the head of the carriers. Six men are generally appointed -to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem -impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to -carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is -very small in comparison with English oxen. - -The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They -throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough -gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is -cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from -such usage. - -After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the -merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness -I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles -of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to -the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent -old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour, -accompanying me. - -Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain -to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my -friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our -perilous descent. At the foot of the mountain we entered another town -of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought -round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to -ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I -found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in -Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets, -and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses, -neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry -officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured -here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes. - -The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned -measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.E. when the observer -is placed on the N.E. end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.E., distant -by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley -S.E. Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the -place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined -armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman -army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined -armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a kingdom -in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong. - -These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and -threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army -of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in -numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings -fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded -the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three -moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three -kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that -which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with. - -The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie -is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the -mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as -follows:-- - - 1. Kpatchie.[4] - 2. Bleedjado. - 3. Annagoonoo. - 4. Dawie. - 5. Dyenyho. - 6. Dosou say Footoh. - 7. Zayso avarahoo. - 8. Bayo Bozway. - 9. Dogano.[5] - 10. Mapossay.[6] - 11. Awenoo.[7] - 12. Bokava. - 13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife. - 14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son. - -12 P.M.--We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, bearing -west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived there. We -were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his principal -wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed with bows -and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept up a constant -irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. The caboceer -and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of cowries, fixed -to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, and about -the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were equipped -similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a very quick, -active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jealous -of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to Baffo. - -Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied -with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed -of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s -principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is -customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink -water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me -till he got intoxicated, when I advised him to return home, which -recommendation he immediately adopted. - -In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town, -taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a -crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the -natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very -large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast, -black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful -birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical -birds of Africa are migratory. - -We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very -pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the -rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The -town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great -variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk -cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here. -The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many -beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and -the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour. -A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant, bearing a very -delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar -to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little -flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the -teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder. - -This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey -commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first -time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion, -caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along -the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is -nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated -atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I -cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the -end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for -many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were -pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded -over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier -days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow. - -Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking -how much gratification I should have felt had any of my old friends -and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed -my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and -obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo. - -I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The -Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea -corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant; -tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod, -both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green -grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit, -much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant -here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the -size of a walnut. - -Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean -in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more -numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of -the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching -my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable -streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities, -some streams being impregnated with iron, others with magnesia. -Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys. - -After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I -returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting -us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my -liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as -regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum, -which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by -the natives, excepting peto. - -I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish -very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he -assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest -man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late -hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the -fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were -very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I -should see whether any alteration took place in him. - -July 15th.--Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his -morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending -me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the -principal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an -ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the -Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself. -In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young -wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many -of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their -divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable, -he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the -market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view -of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted -to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods -round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives -dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but -it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed -by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course -the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller. - -The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for -sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception -of European manufactured goods: these, however, are very limited, -tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I -only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth -is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even -seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating -with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to -consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I -offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of -the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace -and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey. - -About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman -attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty -persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of -kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent -of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having -an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but -this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of -jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so -that high words ensued. - -Although no preparation was made for our dinner, for I had remained at -Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with -the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable -friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises, -as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This -certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie -being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which -Baffo is situated. - -A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting -them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since -I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both -parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner -we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on -the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed -a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great -Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is -very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it, -it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most -daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy myself -with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport. - -Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species, -some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some -horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male -of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly -three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age. -Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous -is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other, -except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their -resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant, -but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow -colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter, -and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The -natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons. - -A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of -narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon -had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to -elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to -make it appear that he had shot it, destroyed part of the head before -presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was -not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion, -as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a -hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball, -he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave -him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and -sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked -him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the -paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his -companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing. -I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a -matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him -another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against -a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer -seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen -of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably -that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to -hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree, -which created some considerable surprise amongst the soldiers who -accompanied me. - -Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground, -apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of -his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of -its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short -distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and -in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in -about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred -yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely -venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I -left Whydah. - -Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently -worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to -be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his -present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed, -therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him -a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place -I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now -suffering much from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of -terminating fatally. - -In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who -was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at -the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that -I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the -caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an -opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health -of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum, -for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning. -The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye, -though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain -of my guard was present. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[2] I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his -surname. - -[3] The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand. - -[4] Caboceer. - -[5] Brother to the caboceer. - -[6] Commander-in-chief of the soldiers. - -[7] Second in command of the soldiers. - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - The River Loto--Jokao Mountain--Jetta--Reception by the - Caboceer--Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko--Its curious - Formation--Its former Importance on account of its - Manufactures--Desolating Effects of War--Attachment of the Natives - to particular Spots--Natural Tanks in the Mountains--Mount - Koliko--Precipitous Granite Rock--Similarity to Scottish - Scenery--The Nanamie--Laow, and the Laow Mountain--Kossieklanan - Cascade--Tamargee Mountains--Mineral Spring--Mount Koglo--Insulting - Conduct of the Caboceer--Whagba--Caboceer’s Hospitality--The - Town--Inhabitants--Kindness of Athrimy, the Caboceer of - Teo--War-Dance--Drunkenness--Names of the Caboceer, &c.--Game--Curious - Pigeons--An Incident--Absurd Notion--Departure from Whagba--Names - of the Caboceer, &c.--Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow and - Massey--Beautiful Valley--Impregnable Position--The Caboceer - of Kpaloko--Grandeur of the Scene--Jeka Houssoo--The Dabadab - Mountains--Difficulty in obtaining Information--Resolve to leave my - Attendants--My Scheme--Departure--Zafoora--Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, - &c.--Shea-Butter used for Lamps. - - -July 18th.--Early in the morning we got ready for our march to Whagba. -I found my old friend Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one -hundred men, and to my surprise found a number of the Baffo soldiers -ready to escort me some distance from the town. We marched out with -the band playing one of the favourite Dahoman airs, which seemed to -me to have more of discord than music about it. On passing the gates, -the path bears NN.E. across a level plain. After two miles we crossed -the river Loto, a fine clear stream, running east; and at two miles -and a half, and one hundred yards to the right of the path, a spot was -pointed out to me where the King of Dahomey and his army had encamped -for the space of three months, during the war with the King of Kpaloko, -who, after a siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to -surrender at discretion. - -The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing eastward, about eight miles -distant, the mountain of Jokao is seen; and on the left, about two -miles and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta, situated on a -mountain of that name. At three miles and a half we were met by the -caboceer of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers awaiting our arrival -in a market-place, through which we had to pass. This market-place, -like nearly all others, is shaded with large trees. The caboceer -received us with great courtesy, his guard keeping up an irregular fire -of musketry. After the usual compliments between both parties, we were -presented with plenty of provisions brought from their own town. Having -refreshed ourselves, I presented the caboceer and several of his head -men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta is between the two -mountains, Jetta and Kpaloko. The longitudinal form of these mountains -is north and south. - -At four miles, the path changing to east, we crossed a fine brook, -named Awadakoo, the small tributary streams of which were strongly -impregnated with iron. In the valley we found numerous blocks of -pebbles combined together with iron. At five miles we passed through -the ruins of the ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was killed, as -well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded the former king of that country, -who had brought his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army was -destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpaloko is of very curious -formation, being nearly perpendicular at the sides, and the top like -an acute arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession of concave -scales, varying in thickness from twenty to thirty feet, and placed one -upon another. These scales are formed of very hard granite of large -grain. Several of these scales had parted near the centre of the top -longitudinally, and slipped from their position down the side of the -mountain, resting with their lower edges on the ground, and forming -buttresses of five hundred feet long, and seventy feet high, leaving -a space of about forty-eight feet from the foot of the mountain, or -block, to the foot of the buttress. - -On examining the ruins of this large town, I found not one hut left -standing, showing the sad and desolating effects of war. This place -had once the character of being the greatest manufacturing town in -the kingdom of Mahee, extending her commerce through nearly the whole -of that country, as well as that of Annagoo. Now all was silent as -death--not a note or flutter even of any thing of the winged tribe was -heard. The intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air, rendered -the scene truly mournful and solitary. I could not help reflecting -upon the natural attachment of the natives to particular spots, for -although this town had been destroyed for years, the surviving natives -still cultivated the gardens and the land formerly occupied by their -ancestors and relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to be -wondered at, for each house is invariably the family sepulchre. - -The path now changed its bearing to N.E. Being the rainy season, the -ground was very moist. And there are many good and permanent springs, -whose streams run longitudinally with the mountain, from which the -natives of the towns, now built on the top of the mountain, receive -their supplies when their tanks which are formed by nature on the top -of the mountain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran NN.E., with -rock on both sides, Mount Koliko, and the town of the same name, being -close on our left. The caboceer met us in the path with provision and -water, as well as some peto for our refreshment. - -After resting a quarter of an hour, we again proceeded on our march -along the side of a smooth granite rock, so much on the dip or -incline that my horse could scarcely keep his footing, though he was -very sure-footed. After passing about a quarter of a mile over this -dangerous road, the path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear -water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me of some of my native -glens, the haunts of my boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees -intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven together by various -running plants of the sweetest odour, rendered this part of the path -truly delightful and refreshing. - -At seven miles the path changed to N. 60° W., and we crossed a rapid -stream, named Nanamie, running N. At seven miles and a half we passed -over a granite mountain, with good spring wells on the top. At eight -miles the valley became narrow, with high mountains on each side of -the path. The mountain on the left is named Laow, as is also the -town. The caboceer, with his attendants and soldiers, met us in the -path, with plenty of provisions and water, as well as rum, of which -my people drank very freely. Having presented this caboceer with some -trinkets and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey. The character of -this mountain differs considerably from those in the neighbourhood, -being divided into different sections of various thickness and strata, -running N.E. and S.W., at a dip of 12° towards E. by S. - -At eight miles and a half, NN.W., and at nine miles, NN.E., I noticed -a fine brook and cascade, running south, named Kossieklanan; and on -the east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamargee, of considerable -magnitude. Here the palm and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance, -but the butter-trees have all undergone the operation of scorching. At -ten miles and a half I observed a chain of mountains, running north and -south, distant from the path two miles; the northernmost of these is -named Sawee. - -On these mountains is a sort of yellow and very fine grass, equal to -the finest needles, and about two feet high, growing in tufts similar -to rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage were entirely -scorched, being about the colour of yellow ochre. A shrub of the same -colour grows here, about ten feet high, with leaves placed on the tree -very similarly to our box, but about three times the length. - -At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the path two miles to the -right, are the mountains Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a -mountain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path. Here is in the -path a very fine spring, at the temperature of 62°, the water quite -clear and less impregnated with iron than most others. - -At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us, eighteen hundred feet -high, close to the left of the path, with a very large town on the -top. Here we were not met by the caboceer or any of his people, as -in other towns belonging to the King of Dahomey, but found they had -been making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the path. They had -killed a white fowl and filled an earthen pot with palm-oil and some -other composition, sticking the feathers into this composition and -placing the pot in the path. This is considered by them to be one of -the greatest insults which can be offered. However, I endeavoured to -convince them that their bad fetish was of no avail. Still my people -seemed rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance out of the -path. - -A little farther on, we came to a market-place, attended only by some -few women selling peto; but as these people were from the town of -Koglo, the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none of our party -should purchase anything. A messenger was immediately despatched to -Abomey to inform the King of the conduct of the caboceer of Koglo, who, -no doubt, will pay dearly for his bad fetish to the King’s stranger; -they are sure to be invaded next year. They were defeated this year, -but since that period the caboceer died, and his successor denies his -allegiance to the King of Dahomey; but he will no doubt be glad to -succumb, after a severe chastisement. At seventeen miles we came upon -a brook named Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain to the -eastward. - -At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile -and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and -his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and -then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating -their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is -fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty -yards wide. After passing through this outer fence, and about one -hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of -which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside -is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside -is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates. -Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from -Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome. - -The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more -independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any -of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much -revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the -caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of -my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make -me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the -space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two -stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite -unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little -damp, though the heat is so great. - -Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty -of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed -ourselves, we were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his -retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared -that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he -was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to -any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo. -The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several -minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He -was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as -regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were -strictly Dahoman. - -Sunday, July 20th.--A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some -distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with -him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready -cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey, -and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified -in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by -presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions -gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European -manufacture in return. - -This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba, seemed to take -great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious -sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full -three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them -seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the -guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all -commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed -their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented -the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very -readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and -even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of -whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number. - -Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast, -consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in -their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day. -The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the -caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great -favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted -in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour which could possibly -be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore, -may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the -confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact -of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I -here set them down. - -After entering the names of the principals they determined upon -giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I -had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each -individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed, -expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great -fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:-- - - 1. Kpaloo. - 2. Damossee. - 3. Kawpnhoo. - 4. Chassoo. - 5. Koothay. - 6. Bosa. - 7. Kossau Maboo. - 8. Semanoo. - 9. Koyakway. - 10. Dadamy.[8] - 11. Baadoo. - 12. Dyahoo. - 13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife. - -Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand -thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would -soon again visit their country. - -I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba, -which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very -plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted -at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge -is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also -abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those -in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are -also found here of various plumage--green body, yellow and blueish -green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here -domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as -several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants, -bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels. - -An incident took place during my absence, which, although absurd, may -be worthy of notice here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas -and manners of the natives. During my temporary absence from the town, -the man who had charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept a bribe -from the caboceer to allow my horse, which was entire, to serve a very -handsome mare, presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey. As -soon as the mare was brought near my horse he became unruly and broke -from his fastening and by some means tore or pulled off one of his -shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means it occurred, believing -that some of my people had been beating it, but every one denied all -knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared that I would punish -the man in charge of my horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he -were at his post he must be aware by what means my horse had lost his -shoe. This threat had the desired effect, and the man openly confessed -that he had been tempted by the reward of one head of cowries,[9] -(which at this place is forty-seven strings, each string containing -thirty-three cowries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country of -more value than five sovereigns would be in England,) to allow it, -although it is believed amongst these uncivilized beings that he is -thus entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is rendered -quite unfit to carry a rider after. This shows plainly the absence -of principle, for this man who had charge of my horse was a captured -slave, and had received a good education at the government school at -Sierra Leone; but passion so far overcame principle, that for one -dollar he would sacrifice my horse. - -The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my having learned all the -facts of the case, became alarmed, naturally supposing that I should -feel much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest I should make the -case known to the King of Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed, -that he would not venture into my presence during the whole of the -afternoon, but several of his messengers visited me, requesting to -know if I had every thing I wanted, and informing me that it was their -master’s wish I should be furnished with any thing I might require. -In the evening the caboceer and several of his head men and principal -wives, and also several of his daughters, ventured to visit me. Upon -approaching me, the old man in front, the whole party prostrated -themselves on the ground, throwing dust over their heads and shoulders, -until I had assured the caboceer of my forgiveness, at the same time -telling him that had he asked me, he should have been welcome to the -use of my horse. I also remonstrated with him upon the absurd notion -entertained by them. To my no small surprise, the old man presented -me with his youngest daughter for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling -me she would be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my declining his -offer, the old man seemed rather offended, until I informed him that -as African wives were considered by their husbands to be also their -slaves, I could not, without a breach of the laws of my own country, -accept his offer. I told him, however, that I should make my proffered -wife a present of a few small cotton handkerchiefs, and when I again -passed through his country I should call for his daughter. This -reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his favourite child much -more satisfaction than leaving for ever her home to become a white -man’s slave. - -The old man furnished myself and people with an excellent supper and -plenty of peto. I invited him to spend the evening with me, and partake -of a glass of grog, which he very willingly accepted, and we parted for -the night the best of friends. - -July 21st.--Early in the morning, a messenger came to my house to -inquire after my health, and about an hour afterwards an excellent -breakfast was sent for myself and people. I had to put on the cast shoe -on my horse, which was a difficult task, as I had not proper nails, and -the hoofs of the African horses are so hard that a nail can scarcely -be driven without the assistance of a brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I -had a few common nails and a shoemaker’s hammer, so that by beating the -nails a little thinner, and using the awl, I managed to fix the shoe, -and prepared for my journey back to Baffo. The caboceer had ordered all -his soldiers to prepare to accompany me as a sort of convoy out of the -town. - -All being arranged, the old man, and his numerous family and principal -people, led the procession, and we passed out of the gates of the -town, when immediately a running fire was commenced by the soldiers -of Whagba. After accompanying me about a mile, the old man signified -his intention of returning, and coming close to my horse he prostrated -himself and bade me farewell; but I begged that he would dispense with -such humiliation, assuring him that a white man did not require it. -He expressed his high sense of the honour conferred upon him by the -King sending his white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard -there were white people, but never expected to see one, but hoped that -I would soon again return, assuring me that my new bride should be -waiting for me whenever I came back, and that every comfort should be -furnished me, free of expense, whenever I might visit his country. We -then shook hands and parted, the old caboceer with tears in his eyes. - -I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer and head-men of -Whagba;[10] they are as follow-- - - Caboceer’s name Agoa. - First Head-man Cantra. - Second do. Bossa. - Third do. Bassa. - Fourth do. Whyo. - Fifth Head-man Bow. - Sixth do. Baya. - Seventh do. Wynho. - Eighth do. Haigh, Commander-in-chief. - - Head-women’s names--Wossee, Agwbydhe. - -On my return to Baffo we proceeded by the side of the mountain of -Kpaloko opposite to that we passed before, consequently we visited -other parties to those we had met on my journey to Whagba. The first -was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose name was Minakoko. On my return -I found him on the side of the path, with a number of his head men, -and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-five large calabashes full -together with a fine young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met me at -the same place, presenting me with the same quantity of provisions as -the above, which were more than we could all devour. After marching -about two miles in a beautiful valley, well watered and cultivated, -with Kpaloko on one side and Mount Laow on the other, as well as other -mountains equally steep and difficult of access, we were again met by -the caboceer of a town on the side of Mount Laow named Filaly, with -fifty-five calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels; he -also presented me with a very fine bull, and the caboceer of my guard -with two goats. Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was one of the -instances of surnames. - -In passing this valley of several miles in length, and of three -quarters of a mile in breadth, I could not help observing its natural -defences as a military position. On our left was Kpaloko, whose steep -sides are totally inaccessible, and Mount Laow, running parallel on -the opposite side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible, -although not so high. Supposing this valley were walled across (which -is narrow at each end) with batteries on the top, and properly armed, -a disciplined army might, with proper resources, defy any number of -enemies. The valley is composed of excellent soil, and rears annually -four crops of the small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would -grow in our British isles; and, with other vegetables, which grow with -equal rapidity, would support an army constantly, capable of defending -it during any siege, however prolonged. It has numerous springs, -besides a considerable stream, which passes along in a serpentine -course. - -After reaching the end of this interesting valley, we were met at the -market-place on the side of the path, under some large trees, by the -caboceer of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine calabashes of -provision and a fine bull. His name was Janko. While resting under -the shade of the gigantic trees I could not help looking back with -wonder on the singular work of the Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense -blocks, which might well be called mountains of granite, we had passed, -thrown together in a confused mass or heap, overhanging the valley in -awful grandeur, presented certainly the most interesting scene of the -kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was very communicative and -intelligent, and, I learnt, was much loved and respected by his people. - -After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had -done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our -return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took -up my old quarters. - -July 22d.--Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko, -came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions -for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and -explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to -ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal. -They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old -Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the -custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab[11] mountains, where I should find -Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and -present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me -every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of -that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain. -When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer -uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they -could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far -away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer. - -I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that -no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might -require information upon, was to pretend to answer any inquiries. -But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these -mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from -my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with -difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me. -I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short -shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men -sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This -was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained, -I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my -intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing -through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond -a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the -place where we should find Terrasso-weea. - -They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told -them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many -objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of -the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety -and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my -guard was responsible by his head for my safe return; they moreover -observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an -armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my -intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a -present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my -return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer -for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all -quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out -early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them -to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing -a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles, -and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I -generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was -evinced by any of the rest of my party. - -It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from -Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision -and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings -of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers -were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me, one of whom -happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I -not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out -to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to -become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However, -I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once -told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading -in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains. - -The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich -loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving -Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a -few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, -and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are -also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the -shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a -very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the -shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple -as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted -from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the -vessel, then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence -of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The -lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are -left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted -wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns -extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[8] Commander-in-chief of the militia. - -[9] After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie -increases in value. - -[10] Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as -one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to -Abomey to be my guide through that country. - -[11] Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made -without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn. - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My - Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver with - the King--Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans--Inhospitality--The - Shea-butter, and other Trees--The Gwbasso--Prevalent - Diseases--Soil--The Velvet Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold - Reception by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard - Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King Chosee - and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment of Danger--Result - of a Firm Demeanour--Respect shewn by the King and Natives--Enter - Koma with a Band of Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the - King’s Wives--Palaver with the King--The Niger known here as the - Joleeba--Presents to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges - for Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle - of the Caboceer--Slave-Market--Trade Monopolized by the - Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the - Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous - Confusion--Inhospitality. - - -Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed -in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at -short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However, -as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold -and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless -informed the caboceer or king of our approach, and he had sent a -messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came, -and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was, -that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate -till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people -now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that -we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No -ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but -all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned, -informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us. -Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his -appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers, -who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as -they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted. -The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted. -During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told -him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view -besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan -fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea. - -As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if aroused from stupor, -was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment -and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a -long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed -almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people -were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows -were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired, -although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled -forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as -possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could -purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought, -from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the -price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an -exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂_d._; -however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had -only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than -a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they -would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money--money seemed -to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does -in all countries. - -This circumstance was rather a damper on a private scheme I had then -in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was -both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place -was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing -I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun, -and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of -sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One -man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned -from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora, -that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information -was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining -information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named -Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po, -whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence -of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain -three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already -experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were -too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that -the white man spoken of by the King must be the same. - -I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my -guard in a clandestine manner, and in all probability I might be the -means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might -incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real -friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied -me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined -to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three -soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my -friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman -whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my -return, which would be as soon as possible. - -The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting -the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King -of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me -belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was -now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name -of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those -mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from -small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance -of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those -who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation -was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be -mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on -the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad -when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well -as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with -my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in -the morning--rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored -our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at -this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry -respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to -receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything -in return. - -July 24th.--Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made -a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to -Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore N. 35° -W. varying to N. 10° W. and N. 15° W. (true) bearing. The country was -level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes -and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many -large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more -rough than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this -neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of -considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep. -The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward -at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of -great size, as well as hippopotami. - -Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a -few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers, -each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants. -Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives; -probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was -strictly forbidden. - -At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet, -running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was -at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of -our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and -brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a -fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had -a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the -corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it. - -We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my -men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now -very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a -tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba. -Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be -admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to -ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the -caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know -my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of -no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I -came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea. -This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it -very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our -palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my -people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their -friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer, -_the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing_.[12] However, -we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting -white men’s country, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which -they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for -not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the -Fellattah country. - -The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that -I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty -to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no -other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to -trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods -were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles. -These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would -like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all -very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling, -we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were -obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his -family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as -nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method -of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which -saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red -rice, which grows in this country, and with the two fowls and some -shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left -to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of -any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not -scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so -much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back. - -Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl -and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy -drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we -commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow, -and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it. -The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions, -to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where -indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon -a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is -made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed -in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this -kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also -stirrups, similar to those used by the Moors in the neighbourhood of -Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured -here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having -in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to -pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb, -but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently -the case in the Fellattah country. - -In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks -with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain, -and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs -eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes -of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly -level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance -to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated -land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as -our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we -were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the -caboceers of our coming. - -When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn -plantation, we were met by Chosee, the King of this province, preceded -by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us, -flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by -the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the -little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very -fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never -having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment, -not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but -confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however, -long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence -in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a -barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger -and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur, -though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the -danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms -of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but -I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my -drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless -for us to sell our lives cheaply. - -Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was -aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this -troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and -that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they -stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity -of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the -whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song, -each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their -King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to -advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers -and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior -rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening -the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself. -I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was -in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was -not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook -hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this -country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After -going through the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers -of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma. - -This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled -and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the -market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments -like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European, -but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it. -I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed -since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made -aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit -Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent, -independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King -with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his -sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles. - -After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some -of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of -which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to -station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie -Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a -white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as -if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked -one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives -hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should -be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt -they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first -presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving -that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and -my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner -apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst -which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered -salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this -alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and -contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent. - -The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with -Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was -rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged to acknowledge that I -had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at -Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened -to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King -of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing -through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might -have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country -to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with -this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for -their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me -whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more -in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to -be able to supply in abundance. - -He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter -into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and -Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved -of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied -that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here -by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge -of the unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as -he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to -that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the -natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been -known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living. - -The Niger appears to be known here only by the name _Joleeba_, not -_Joliba_. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. Fever -and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though a -very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called -yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person -is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the -arms and legs even to the bone. - -After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my -march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors, -with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for -offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not -aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to -make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list -of the articles which he would prefer that I should bring on my next -visit, to which of course I assented. - -His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that -night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over, -I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a -messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next -town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named -Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent -crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants -for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on -account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma, -and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides. - -The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in -this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without -great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the -King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey -to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked -him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried -with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they were so very dear, -that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes -twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one -string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but -would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken -any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take -any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents. -I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the -wood with which he supplied us. - -The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior -description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is -grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large -description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so -handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of -intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of -knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation. -The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants. - -At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled -corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearing N. 33° W., true bearing, -varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to -25°, 20° to 80° W. During the first twelve miles the country was -nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed -the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of -carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka. -Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did -not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was -roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our -attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater -display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally -very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for -he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all -merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market. - -Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some -in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons -were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many -instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be -perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are -invariably the property of the owners of the parents, and are bought -and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the -breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the -walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two -walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is -often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market -is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there -are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town. - -The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the -prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade -(with the exception of any European goods which may find their way -into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public -market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for -his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the -inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger -boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking -light goods for sale. - -The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized -by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic, -and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in the mouth when -parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state -is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country. -Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also -bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are -arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being -sold in places specially appointed for their sale. - -In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the -piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always -sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no -inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant -here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken -in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb, -consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto -is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made -strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk -in a state of fermentation. - -After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned -me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake -of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen pots, made in -the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken -their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to -ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the -event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I -knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get -rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen -Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart. -I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods -if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew, -however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the -price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female -slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand -cowries. - -After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed -my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and -a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I -found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was -level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of -iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant. -The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with -large trees of luxurious growth. - -At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah. -Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now -getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to -obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten -a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people, -as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more -substantial food. - -After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the -town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with -a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features. -My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our -treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey, -as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time -to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great -consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie. -I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much -consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces, -the caboceer made a sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves, -and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they -styled king. - -Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay -him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no -further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in -his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious. -I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for -the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought -if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to -be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the -protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he -could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining -fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado, -and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some -distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into -another. - -After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse -could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I -did not at all relish. The objection made was that the doorways were -too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the -poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low -doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself. - -At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a -quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones -for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were -busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous -confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl -pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the -dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or -anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and -very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening -to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than -three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood -to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain -for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they -seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and, -though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged -to satisfy ourselves with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we -still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me -plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which -I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I -easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said -his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a -large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels. - -He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply -of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my -hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking -that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the -first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement, -that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real -belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine, -but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted -ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced -to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd -ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), -and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour to examine the -contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at -the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat. - -In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters, -and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to -trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any -knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one -and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night, -during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying, -as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a -bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this -country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water -yams. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[12] In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food. - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn of - Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures, - &c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market - Day--Curiosity of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables, - their Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the - Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm - Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain - Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market - price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method of - drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror of the - Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents to - the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width, - &c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring - Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native Furnace - and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac. - - -After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we -re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without -breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town, -consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to -the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government, -and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and -several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment be -divested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As -soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think -of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance -from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in -the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated. - -We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not -long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of -an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few -previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour: -even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to -cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid, -I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself. - -The path from Assofoodah[13] bears N. 45° W., varying from 45° W. to -10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying -from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some -soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery. -It is very productive. - -At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with -a prickly hedge, at least twenty yards broad, and strongly walled -inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded -by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a -messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long -before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as -they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding -out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half -long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper, -resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me, -consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of -it. - -I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though -he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the -Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would -be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could -scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which -I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this -was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers. - -After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they -all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself, -prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting, -shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each -time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their -country, signifies, _How are you?_ or, _How do you do?_ The chief was a -fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very -active for a man of his years. - -The natives of this country are very different, both in form and -appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of -temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in -their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are -either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their -cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal -bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers -of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had -anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans. - -After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the -court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash -of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A -bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is -abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to cook -our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we -were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn -for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea -fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man -speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some -scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to -enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over -the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle -with only the usual daily trade. - -This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different -trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were -occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil -are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same -principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact -upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less -workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very -regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with -considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are -also well known here. - -The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment of plenty. But the -extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition -of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the -immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal -upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the -administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful -crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated. -They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I -ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that -between Abomey and Canamina. - -We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town, -followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer, -or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his -people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our -satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some -of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of -ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason -unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of -a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the -chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey -rejoicing. - -We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with -nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had -passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards. - -Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still -bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles -we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we -entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere -being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march -was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down, -while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo, -as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were -surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market, -and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In -fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost -upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch -a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings -seemed to create a great sensation. - -In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds -in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe -of distinct species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the -sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in -any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time -the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected, -several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides -fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right -and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it -appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or -gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These -people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision -exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men -were clearing a passage for their master to advance. - -The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the -exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction -to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board, -about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo -cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which -the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or -slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is -slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of -this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument -I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a -somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed -out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the -concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed -over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is -not equal to that I have just described. - -The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and -confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for -us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying -down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his -country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief -professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and -remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto), -but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was -caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market -were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only -native manufacture I saw was cloth. - -After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our -journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but -it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went -a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there -encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my -small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not -before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a -considerable distance to procure more water. - -This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular -propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it. -I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire, -it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left -to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled -to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a -town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had -given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were -desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in -such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving -them lessons, till overcome with sleep. During the night we were -obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel -inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably -good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then -aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon -prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon -consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant -suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect. - -On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town, -without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in -his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We -were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the -same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were -requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances, -the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards -with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief -and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found -the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as -intoxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I -was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one -single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or -compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though -they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they -interfere with the food of the latter. - -Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on -other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither -will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it. -Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed -by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of -turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as -soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds, -all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and -trees. - -This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn, -their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by -building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a -hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out -when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole. - -The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof -of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and -long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow -ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in -diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14] - -Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter -is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very -anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour -an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of -white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They -seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like -myself, but that some had hair as black as their own. - -Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for -ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants, -and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw -no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the -houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite -common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here. - -After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles -and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our -journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety -to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of -Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also. -We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had -repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and -safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing N. 23° W., and -varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° W. The land now became -uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling -slate, different to any thing I had before observed. - -At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine -cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and -palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also -abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at -this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the -crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The -principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground -beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root, as well as kankie, ready -cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives. - -There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a -few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved -and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles -we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable. -Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full -bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters -over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig -also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted. - -At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants. -Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much -resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer -breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of -cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa, -but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an -hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man, -who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his -village. - -The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome, and the sheep -considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two -very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we -were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing -it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very -handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their -manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to -those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a -great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame -state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in -nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite -article of commerce. - -We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in -flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different -vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their -principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its -value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces, -dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of -the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered -preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in -drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom -by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march. - -The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very -productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as -an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The -beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and -villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different -to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing -fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They -were very delicious and refreshing. - -At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a -pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we -observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea -corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but -upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We -remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been -made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several -persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of -us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and -females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow -and spear. - -In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His -little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or -saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of -the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of -the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity, -although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his -countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual, -into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out -of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our -business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As -usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable -satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow -until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire -that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly -objected to as likely to give offence. - -My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the -chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be -allowed to pass through the country without the great king of the -country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man -failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the -great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence, -and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions. - -Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white -man was going to _dash_ him, or what present he was going to make -him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger -visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been -in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might -ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to -his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there. -Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to -Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of -obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s -harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes -upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted. - -He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one -hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer -than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their features and figures -were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I -had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed -within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed -gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s -females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality -of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of -one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I -was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised -him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with -less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He -picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me, -doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could -not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing. - -After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we -resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river -Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into -a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations -for swimming across. One of my people carried a change of linen, and -two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as -presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the -horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water, -for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me -across with a rapidity scarcely credible. - -I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned -me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We -crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet. -My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge -into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved -their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on -their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of -keeping it in a water-tight case. - -Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made -their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and -he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across -at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps -a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it -is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river. -Travellers with heavy loads cannot cross this river without employing -the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we -had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and -twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a -half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction. - -To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet, -boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine, -leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece -of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very -thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide, -and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over -board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and -wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the -bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same -time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the -depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty -yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the -wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the -line carefully up previously to throwing it. - -The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet -above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river -till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions, -and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at -twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This -town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three -market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and -though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily -employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering -their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve -years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized -them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair. - -Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin, -and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and -naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The -chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same -office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of -the trade in all articles of consumption. - -The hills in this neighbourhood abound with iron, and another mineral -substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is -probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board -in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during -the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and -considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely -rubbing it round it. - -Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore. -The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman -cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is -built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and -about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers -inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from -the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows, -which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The -bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of -wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard -long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are -fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one -end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the -block of wood: it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges. -Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the -sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body -of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates -with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close -on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers, -being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same -principle as the bellows used in England. - -The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in -each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the -other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept -up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that -used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old -gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their -way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this -purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the -interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it. - -But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be -procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer -of charcoal and iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at -the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours -elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of -course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the -bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that -which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn -to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to -be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most -efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough -and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though -swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in -Kassokano. - -The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my -interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never -hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing -my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads -off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured -them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a -white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some -evil art, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course -ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect. - -After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we -were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered -us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so -filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves -had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much -annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp -somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he -seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my -gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey, -never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town. - -We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the -southern gate, the path bearing N. 30° W., and at two miles from the -town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some -rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle -a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my -poor fellows, who were evidently beginning to show symptoms of having -been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I -found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined -to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times -hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old -adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put -my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but -I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to -proceed. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[13] Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants. - -[14] Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the -neighbourhood of Whydah. - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Peculiar Breed of Dogs--The Town of Zabakano--Market - Day--Native Manufactures--Domestic Slaves--Palm Oil--Joleeba, - or Niger--Horses make part of the Family--Pelican - Nest--Pigeons--Kindness of the Gadadoo--Pigeon Shooting--Palaver - with the Gadadoo--Population--Mounted Soldiers--Character of - the Scenery--Grooba--Manufactures--The Town of Sagbo--Drilling - System general here--Two sorts of Rice--Received by the Gadadoo - with great Pomp--Palaver--Dromedary and Elephant--Prevalent - Diseases--The Town of Jakee--Reception--Ancient Custom--Breakfast - of the Natives--Manufactures--Terror of the Natives--Chalybeate - Springs--The River Jenoo--The Land Tortoise--Interesting Panorama--The - Town of Kallakandi--Reception by the Sheik--Palaver--Band of - Musicians--Peculiar Instruments--Manufactures, &c.--Slave - Market--Horses--Laws-Cruel Punishment--Population--Attack on a - Boa-Constrictor--Manufactures--Deer--Method of Preserving Meat - and Fish--Trap for Wild Animals--Town of Ongo--Reception by the - Caboceer--Interesting Aspect of the Country. - - -July 29th.--We kindled a fire, and made breakfast, and at sunrise we -again commenced our journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano. The -country was much of the same character as that we had recently passed. -Here I observed a particular species of dogs, much coarser than those -in the Kong Mountains, where the breed is very much like the British -greyhound though not so large. After passing over several small -streams of good water, of which we had each a hearty draught, we, at -seven miles, arrived at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King met -me, and escorted me with two hundred horsemen. He was well acquainted, -it appeared, with the priest Terrasso-weea. - -This town is beautifully situated, commanding a view of the surrounding -country to a great distance. The people seem cheerful and contented. -This was one of the principal market-days, consequently I had an -opportunity of observing the supplies of the different articles of -trade and consumption. It was well supplied with native produce, and a -greater quantity of rice was exposed than in any other market I have -visited in Africa. Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets -and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste and skill in -Bornou, and brought thither by Terrasso-weea’s trading party. Tanning -and dyeing are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a peculiar -sort of slippers are here manufactured, similar to those we found in -Tangiers. - -The chief possesses a great number of domestic slaves, but sells none -of them. They are chiefly employed in trading with the surrounding -towns and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state of -cultivation, to a considerable distance round. Palm-oil is manufactured -here, and is actually transported, by the tributary navigable streams, -to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it is here known. Here -it is not known either by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this -circumstance is not at all surprising, for I find that all the rivers -have different names in the various countries through which they flow. -I have also, in many instances, found two places with the same name, -at no very great distance from each other; but, in fact, the same may -be observed in our own country. Native iron and nitre were abundant in -this market. - -Horses here invariably make part of the family, being fastened to a peg -driven into the ground or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a -foot of rope. The children are often seen playing between the legs of -the animal, with which it seems much pleased, often nibbling at their -heads with its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would. - -The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us with every thing which -might tend to our gratification; and, though he was the principal -trader himself, he accompanied us through every part of the town. Close -to the town is a lake, supplied partly by a small stream, and partly -by the heavy rains during the season. On this lake were a number of -large trees, upon which were the nests of the pelican, a great number -of which we saw roosting on the branches. I had never seen the nest -of the pelican on a tree since I was in Egga, a town on the banks -of the Niger, when I was there with the late unfortunate expedition -under Captain Trotter. I then shot several on the trees; but here, at -Zabakano, the inhabitants had an objection to my killing any of them; I -could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons were very numerous here, -both the wood-pigeon and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to -my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient for my party for this -and the following day. We were obliged to cook them immediately. - -We were, however, very kindly treated by the chief or gadadoo, who -strongly urged us to remain a day with him. This kind treatment seemed -to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage and animation; in fact, -it seemed to act as a fresh stimulus to all of us. The natives were -quite delighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one or two of -them were acquainted with such guns as had found their way to this -town, and several others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they -had no idea; for guns are not allowed to be brought here by way of -trade in a perfect state, and even were they, still without powder -they would be useless. - -The chief has a very large number of wives, but the principal portion -of them are merely employed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all -the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The civilized portion is very -limited, even on the coast. The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer -for my carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so much service -to him as his bow or sabre, unless he had a supply of ammunition; that -as I had visited his country partly with a view to ascertain what -articles would be most likely to suit their markets, I should, as -soon as possible, return with a large stock of suitable merchandise. -A story like this was much more likely to be believed amongst savages -than any other excuse I could make for visiting their country. If told -that my object was merely for scientific purposes, they would not have -understood me, and would have been more likely to look upon me with -suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can take interest about any -thing not of a pecuniary nature. - -This town contains about nine thousand inhabitants; it is clean and -open, but I was informed that after the conclusion of the rainy season -fever and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox is much dreaded -by the natives, and seems to be the principal disease here. I have -not observed one case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although -at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is prevalent, affecting the -head, and not unfrequently enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much -as totally to obscure vision. This distortion of nature, as may be -supposed, has an extremely repulsive appearance. - -After remaining about an hour and a half, I gave the gadadoo some small -presents, which he received with apparent satisfaction. He and his head -men, as well as his two hundred mounted soldiers, then conveyed me some -distance from the town, going through their manœuvres of attack at the -same time. This was merely a wild rush without any order or discipline, -and so far from their being (as has been represented) a formidable -force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined horsemen would easily -annihilate the whole party. - -Here we parted from the most generous and affable chief we had met -with since leaving the Mountains of Kong. During this day’s journey, -our bearing changed from N. 45° W. to 12° 10°, 35°, 43°, and due West -(true). The country now became very pleasant, and the path not so -rough under foot. Around us in different directions were numerous -hills, giving a relief to the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain. -We crossed several small clear streams, some of which had worn their -channels nine or ten feet deep. - -At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town of Grooba. Here the -old chief, or head man, received us very kindly; doubtless, he had -received a message which prompted this friendly reception. This town is -clean and neat for an African town. The only manufacture of note here -is cotton tobes, but different in pattern to the cloths manufactured -in the Kong Mountains, which are invariably striped with various -colours; but here the cloth is all either blue or white, similar to -the tobes worn by the Mandingo traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here -the blacksmith plies his trade, but only for the accommodation of the -inhabitants of the town. A sort of cloth is also manufactured from the -inner bark of a certain tree, which is very strong and durable, and of -various colours. This when woven into cloth has a very rich appearance; -long sashes or girdles of the same material are worn by most of the -influential persons. - -At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream and kindled a fire, -where we cooked some of our pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We -afterwards resumed our journey, and at twenty-eight miles arrived at -the town of Sagbo. Around this town the country is well cultivated, and -the drilling system seemed generally adopted. This is, doubtless, an -advantage during the rainy season. Four different sorts of maize are -cultivated here, as well as two sorts of rice, white and red. Here they -have a better mode of cleaning and preparing the rice for use than any -other place I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant, as also the -palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is cultivated, and rudely manufactured -in nearly all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee country. - -The chief and his head men and bowmen received us in a similar manner -as at other places, with great pomp and solemnity, his priests taking -the lead in conducting us into the market-place, advancing at a slow -pace and repeating some select portion from the Koran. This ceremony, -upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral procession in England. After -we reached the palaver place in the market, we were invited to sit -down, and water was handed to us. Nothing else, however, of a liquid -nature was offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as to our -purpose in visiting the country. These questions I answered to the -same effect as I had previously done. My reply seemed to give general -satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by bowmen and spearmen, many of -whom were very fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or sheik, -as he is here called, amused himself by playing with his beard, rather -an uncommon ornament amongst these people, and highly esteemed. We were -presented with two fowls by one of the head men, to whom in return I -gave two papers of needles. - -This town is well supplied with good water, and the cattle, both sheep -and oxen, are very handsome; the horses are small, but well bred. The -dromedary and elephant are here to be met with tame. The sugar-cane -is also cultivated, and very large, but not manufactured. The liquor -after boiling the cane is used mixed with the meal of the Indian corn, -instead of, or rather as we use tea or coffee; sometimes a little -ginger, which grows here spontaneously, is added to it. This is a very -wholesome and palatable beverage. - -Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc amongst the inhabitants, -and was still destroying numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great -interest in my recommendation to inoculate from the cow-pox, and -several times put the question to me, whether I could not myself -perform the operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he has a -great number. I excused myself for want of material, or matter. The -inhabitants vary very much in colour, which proves the undoubted -mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The greater part of the -inhabitants of Sagbo are very dark, tall, and well formed. The general -development of their cranium is good; they are very keen traders, -cheerful and affable, and nearly all Mahomedans. - -I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little stock, which was now -fast diminishing, and to give a few needles and a thimble, as well -as a Jew’s harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew’s harp a wonderful -piece of consecrated iron. We then recommenced our journey, the country -bearing the same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little larger -than I had met with during my last four days’ journey. - -After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at thirty-eight miles, at -the town of Jakee. The chief of this town is subject to the chief of -Sagbo, who directs or governs six large towns in his own locality. It -appeared that a private messenger had been despatched from Sagbo to -inform the chief of this town of my coming. The same messenger was -with the chief of Jakee when he met me half a mile from the town. The -old man received me with marked courtesy, and without much ceremony we -were conducted into his court-yard. - -As it was getting late, and we had expressed our intention of remaining -all night, the chief readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his -own court-yard, where we were to repose for the night; and upon our -informing him of our long journey, he seemed to sympathize with us, -and in a great measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but joined -us in our quarters, where he seemed delighted to receive information -respecting white man’s country, and also of the country we had passed -through. He expressed his great surprise that a man should venture so -far from his home and relations, and run the risk of casualties in so -many strange lands. This man had by some means heard of the unfortunate -Niger expedition, probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has been -long acquainted. He took great interest in the trade of his own town, -and expressed a great desire to know by what means he might increase -it. We were rather annoyed during the early part of the evening by -numerous curious visitors who came to have a peep at us, and some -watchfulness was required, though we had little to be robbed of; -however, it was the more necessary to preserve the little we had got. - -30th July.--Early in the morning we were aroused by the ringing of a -number of bells or gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient -custom, are rung round the town every morning at day-break to apprise -the inhabitants that it is time to get up. These gong-gongs are used -also to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack upon the town. As -soon as this procession had passed, the chief paid us a visit, and -inquired very kindly after our health. We were supplied with a quantity -of the juice of the sugar-cane, and some meal mixed with it, about the -consistence of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast, with the -addition of some round balls, about the size of a potato, made from an -under-ground bean, which is very abundant in this country. This bean -is ground into meal and made into round balls. It is then fried in an -earthen pot with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a tolerably good -flavour. - -After distributing some needles and Jew’s harps, we recommenced our -journey. During this day our bearing varied from N. 25° W. to 12°, 35°, -40°, and 22° N. towards W. At six miles we arrived at a small market -on the path for the sale of provisions to travellers. Here they also -sold water, which is at all times a bad omen for travellers, as showing -its scarcity. We secured a calabash filled with water for a paper of -needles, which seemed to take well in this part of the country. We -were, however, happily mistaken in our fears respecting water in this -instance, for, at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called -Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water. This kroom is famous -for its tan-pits and dye-vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a -distance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing their cloths and -thread. Besides the indigo, they have a yellow and red colour which -they manufacture, with which they dye both leather and cloth. Here the -natives carve quantities of wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with -considerable taste. They seemed much alarmed at our presence, many of -them running away upon our approach. As soon, however, as they learned -that we were friends, they returned and would soon have become too -familiar. We remained here only a short time, and then resumed our -journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the Kabra Mountains, along -the sides of which we travelled, passing several small krooms or towns -at their base, some of which we entered. - -We found here several chalybeate springs, strongly impregnated with -carbonate of iron of a deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we -arrived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable by large canoes at -all seasons of the year. It runs to the eastward, and is fordable at -this season by persons on foot, not exceeding three feet and a half -deep, with sandy bottom, and not more than twelve yards wide, with a -current not exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however, are not very -abundant, as the natives are unacquainted with the method of catching -them; I observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is rather singular -that the conchology of all the inland rivers in this part of Africa is -very limited, a sort of mussel being the only shell which I observed. - -Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or prawn is the only thing -I noticed. The land-tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of -rivers, and is used by the natives for food. Having halted a short time -after crossing the river, we again resumed our journey, passing amongst -some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented climbing plants, whose blossoms -spread a sweet odour for a considerable distance. We marched some miles -through this interesting panorama before we again reached the open -plain. Here the soil again assumed a lighter colour, of a gravelly -nature, and studded with trees of various kinds. The soil and small -brooks still proved the presence of iron. - -At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of Kallakandi. Here we were -tolerably well received by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems intrusted -with the government of a certain district of considerable extent. It -appeared that he had only obtained intelligence of our approach a -little while previous to our arrival, and was therefore flurried, and a -little cautious and reserved in receiving us; but being acquainted with -our object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at once familiar, -and informed us that he had occupied, with all his retinue, the very -quarters assigned to me for the night. - -We entered into conversation or palaver, which continued until dark. He -seemed very intelligent, and had by his own account been at Timbuctoo, -and gave exactly the same account of the place as the Mahomedan priest -at Abomey, who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea thither. The -sheik very kindly sent us two ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for -our supper, as also two yams and some corn, with plenty of good water. -He again joined us after supper, seeming eager to obtain information. -At length he proposed to retire, which was very agreeable to us, for we -were very tired. He promised to call us early in the morning, to which -arrangement he was very punctual, for certainly he aroused us some time -sooner than we wished. This being market-morning, the town was all -bustle. - -Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo, we were visited by -a band of singing women, who were accompanied by musicians, with -instruments very similar to our German flute, made from the hollow -cane and bottle-shaped gourds, with the pulpy part taken out and -dried, with hundreds of human teeth strung together like beads, and -loosely fastened like net-work over the gourd, which were shaken in -the hand, keeping time to the other instruments used in the native -bands of music: a similar instrument is used in Dahomey. Prostration on -addressing a superior is common here, though they do not rub themselves -with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee country. I took a short ramble -round the town and market-places, both the outer and inner. - -Here I had an opportunity of observing the articles of commerce exposed -for sale, which, however, differed very little from those I have -already mentioned in other places. Smiths’ work is done here in a -superior manner to most other towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks -are made here; the axe is made to fit into the handle, instead of the -handle into the axe, the crown or pole of the axe being made like a -spike, and driven into a hole passed through the end of the handle. -They are also excellent farmers. The weavers also display considerable -taste in the manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have not -observed elsewhere but in Abomey. - -Slaves were exposed in the outer market in great numbers, and early in -the morning considerable numbers had changed owners. Sheep, goats, and -oxen, are numerous, and very handsome. Horses are handsome also, but -small, few exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are numerous in this -town, and are of various kinds. The vulture is common in all the towns -in this country. The government may be said to be quite despotic, for -though a certain power is pretended to be vested in the chief malaam, -or minister, still every objection is overruled in acquiescence with -the will of the sovereign. - -Offenders against the laws are punished according to the estimated -enormity of their crimes, by flagellation or imprisonment in irons, -and labour in the fields; but all serious offences, such as those -against the king, murder, and adultery with the wives of superiors, -are punished by death and torture of the most barbarous description. -Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is prepared, with an iron hose -fixed on the end of it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This -spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being suddenly seized, is -placed on his head with his legs or feet upwards. The spike, while -red-hot, is passed into the lower part of his person and the bowels, -and even to the crown of his head.[15] This mode of torture is only -resorted to in cases of adultery with the king’s or malaam’s wives. -Sometimes another mode of torture for similar offences is resorted to, -equally barbarous and cruel--that of mutilation, and placing it in the -mouth of the offender. - -After promising to make a longer stay on my return, I marched from -Kallakandi, this being the 31st of July, bearing N. 22° westward; -during the day’s journey varying from 22° to 5°, 10°, 5°, and 12° -degrees to westward. The country near the town was well cultivated. At -seven miles we crossed a narrow river running eastward; and at twelve -miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This is also a great market for -the sale and purchase of slaves. Here salt is sold, but at a very high -price, though of a very coarse and dirty description. - -The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo or Dibbo. He, however, is -under the directions of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of -this town are about seven thousand in number, and seem a mixture of -many tribes, which is easily detected by the cranium, independent of -the particular marks or scars on the face to distinguish each tribe -from the other. They seem to live in ease and plenty, having little -trouble in cultivating the soil, which here produces four crops in the -year of several sorts of grain. - -We remained here only a short time, when, after making a present of a -pair of small scissors for some water, with which we were presented, -we resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while crossing a swamp of -no great magnitude, we were met by a number of women, heavily laden -with different articles of produce for the market which we had just -left. They were accompanied by several men, who walked in the rear. -The women we found had been much alarmed a minute before, but seemed -still more so at meeting me, some of the younger women endeavouring to -pass into the thick impenetrable bush, which extended about half a mile -along each side of the path. The men also seemed much alarmed, and the -older of them, who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared themselves -for an attack. However, they preferred submission, prostrating -themselves as we passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking -them how they were, they informed us of the extreme danger of passing -any farther, till an enormous snake which they had just met should -retire. They stated that this reptile had taken up his position in a -large tamarind-tree, whence they said he had been in all probability -compelled to retreat after a combat with a panther, which they said -invariably practised one particular mode of attack. Whenever they come -unexpectedly upon one of these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and -thus prevent it from coiling itself round its prey. Then with its claw -it secures the head, which is immediately brought round to release its -tail. However, I never witnessed an attack of this sort, and must leave -my readers to judge of the truth of this assertion. One of the party -offered to go back and show us the enormous snake, and several others -of the party volunteered their services also. - -Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred yards, when we arrived at -the velvet tamarind-tree, which they had spoken of, and which was -thickly covered with leaves; but upon examining the tree we could -not observe anything of the nature described. When I was just upon -the point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them, who stood a -little behind my horse, suddenly called out “waroo-waroo,” upon which -one of my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse aside, and to -my amazement the monster was pointed out to me with part of its body -coiled round a bough, and its head and a considerable part of its body -hanging down very near our heads. - -It appeared this reptile had descended the tamarind, and had ascended a -much larger tree of a different description. I immediately dismounted, -and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine, which was heavily charged, -one barrel with swan-shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake -was certainly of enormous dimensions, and remained quite motionless. -I took a steady aim at the neck, just behind its head, and fired the -charge of slugs effectually, though for some time it seemed to have -but a slight effect upon it, for it raised its head, and coiled the -fore-part of the body round another branch of the tree; but the -spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose strength, and the tail, -which was coiled round a limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its -fore-part, which hung down towards the ground. I then took my sword, -which I had sharpened equal to a razor, and cut the head off at one -stroke; but even then the people would not venture to touch it with -their hands to pull it down, till I gave them a piece of small cord, -which I invariably carried in my pocket. This was fastened round the -body, and they then succeeded in pulling it down. - -The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured thirty-one feet long, -but the natives told me they had seen them much larger. My gun and -sword excited great astonishment amongst the strangers, who were very -anxious again to hear the noise. They seemed to fancy that it was -the noise which killed the object the muzzle of the gun was directed -towards; this I did not contradict. Here we were detained nearly an -hour, when we again commenced our march, I and my people keeping a -cautious look-out lest some more of our late antagonist’s companions -might be in our immediate neighbourhood. - -We were soon clear of the bush, and our adventure speedily forgotten. -At sixteen miles we arrived at a small kroom, the houses of which were -all built of a circular form, the walls covered with a deep red clay, -and many of the principal houses ornamented with different figures and -hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this kroom is earthen pots of a -superior description and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads, -are also manufactured here, though little tobacco reaches this place; -but I learned that these pipes are sent even to Badagry. Their form is -like the meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very ingenious sort -of lamp, in which palm-oil is used. - -The chief of this kroom had in his possession a pot which attracted my -notice. It was of copper, and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had -been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for many years, but -he could not inform me from whom they had obtained it. There exists -in this neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not larger than -a small English terrier, some of which are here domesticated like the -goat. - -The country also abounds with larger deer of different descriptions, -one of which I this day had the satisfaction of shooting, having -cautiously crept behind a bush very near to him. There were a doe and -fawn of the same description, at a short distance, grazing. This -chance would have supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption -for several days could we have kept it fresh. What we did not require -the first day we broiled in the smoke, and kept it very well for the -second day. This is the method adopted by the natives in drying and -preserving both meat and fish. Even when a human head is desired to -be preserved, the brains are extracted through the spinal connexion -and the head held on the end of a stick in the smoke till it becomes -quite hard and dry. I have seen some thousands preserved in this way in -Dahomey. - -Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous here, and often make awful -havoc amongst the stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions -are employed (some of which would do credit to English ingenuity) to -destroy them. An immense beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in -it, is suspended about seven feet high. This beam rests on a pivot at -each end. When the animal passes under and between the two pivots, -he treads upon a lever which throws the beam off the pivots, and it -falls with full weight on the animal, forcing the spikes their full -length into its body. They have also man-traps of a very singular -construction: these, though simple, are the most efficient I ever saw. -They are always placed in situations where none but trespassers can -be injured. This trap is generally set in a fence, so that a person -climbing over must come in contact with a certain part of it, which -secures a piece of wood connected with another of about seven feet -long, which latter is bent about two feet out of its natural position. -The slightest touch releases this, and the spring resumes its natural -position in a moment. In doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins -with such violence as frequently to break both legs. - -At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of Ongo, where we found the -chief awaiting our arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with -a number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon perceiving us he immediately -advanced towards us at a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the -others, though on foot. When within a few yards of us the whole -cavalcade suddenly halted, and the chief and his principal officers -dismounted, and all, except himself, prostrated themselves, remaining -in that position till they were told to rise. The chief merely held -out his hand, repeating the words, “Sinou, sinou,” which means, _How -are you?--how are you?_--and gave my hand a hearty shake, bidding us -welcome to his town. He said he had been made aware of our approach, -and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared himself glad to see a -white man, Terrasso-weea, he stated, was his particular friend, and had -a white man with him, but not a proper white man like myself. He told -me that Terrasso-weea’s trading party were all good men, and were his -brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans. - -Here we remained to cook some provisions. We were fortunate enough to -obtain in exchange for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small -grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We also got plenty of -water, which was tolerably good, but of a bitterish taste. This is -frequently the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain sort of -wood grows on its margin. Whether this is injurious or not I am not -able to say, as I did not experience any evil effects myself, nor any -of my party, from its use. The country now became delightful, and the -monotony of a dreary plain was relieved at intervals by table mountains -in various directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding nine -thousand feet. - -This place is neatly built for an African town, and with considerable -regularity of formation as regards the market-places for the sale of -different commodities. The houses are very clean, and are ornamented -with various designs, similar to those I have just described. The -horse, as I have already said, invariably forms a part of the family, -and is treated much better than on the coast, where they are not bred, -but brought from the interior. Even here, however, many of the poor -animals are very lean for want of sufficient food, as they are always -tied by the foot, and are never allowed their liberty. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[15] This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Ongo--Weariness of my Attendants--Bivouac--Alarm of my Horse at - the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts--Terror of the Natives--Their - Kindness--Establishment for Mahomedan Converts--Singular Custom--My - Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea, who had been present at the Death of - Mungo Park--Loss of my Sand-glass--Its Construction--Adofoodia--The - Market-Place--Reception by the King--Interview with - Terrasso-weea--Ceremony of welcoming me--His Stores--Discovery of - an Old Acquaintance--Narrative of his Adventures--Terrasso-weea’s - House--His Wives--Inquire of him Particulars of the Fate - of Mungo Park--His Relation of the Death of that Intrepid - Traveller--Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of it--Park’s Property seized - by the King--His Despotic Character--Flight of Terrasso-weea--My - Palaver with the King--Hospitality of the Merchant--Information - obtained respecting Timbuctoo--Market of Adofoodia. - - -After leaving the town of Ongo we were met by several women carrying -fowls and water yams. Some of these we were fortunate enough to -purchase, in exchange for some needles and thimbles. We had now an -excellent stock of provision, and we kept the fowls alive till we -should require them for consumption. My poor fellows began to complain -much of sore feet and fatigue, telling me that “black master only -want man go long way when he make war one day; but white man make -poor black man walk plenty every day till him belly sore; then soon -black man die.” No doubt my poor fellows were extremely tired, as I -was myself, though I rode more than half the distance. I felt much for -them, and sometimes showed them the wound on my leg, and asked them how -they could complain when a white man, and in their hot country, could -stand the march with such a wound; but their reply was invariably, -“White man different to black man; _black man lie down and die, suppose -his leg bad like mine_.” - -At thirty-three miles I proposed to encamp for the night. This proposal -was readily assented to by my tired companions. We accordingly selected -a convenient spot at some little distance from the path, where we -kindled a fire, having plenty of wood close at hand. We soon prepared a -good mess, and having also cut some grass for my horse, and given him a -few heads of corn, which we had saved from the previous night, we all -began, like the natives, to eat at the same table, and in a short time -fell fast asleep. Having left a good fire, we were not afraid of wild -beasts approaching us while the fire continued to burn brightly, but -serpents are very apt to come where there is fire. In fact, the natives -often make large fires for the purpose of attracting a certain species -of snake, which, when the fire is extinguished, feast greedily on the -ashes. - -Though snakes did not trouble us, we were, however, about midnight, -suddenly alarmed by the snorting and pawing of my horse, who actually -bit my foot, to which he was tied, purposely to awaken me. To our great -surprise we found that the horse’s alarm had been caused by a large -species of wolf, which had no doubt been attracted by the smell of the -horse, which had observed it prowling in our immediate neighbourhood; -there it still remained, making at intervals most tremendous howls. I -fired off one of my pistols; after which we heard no more of him, but -took our position nearer to the fire. I was soon compelled to change -my position, however, for my horse having a propensity for scratching -the fire abroad, scraped some of the fire amongst us, burning some of -our clothes. Notwithstanding this we were again soon asleep, and had a -tolerably good rest until day-break. - -I now found one of my Sierra Leone men shivering violently from great -fatigue, the heavy dew, and the considerable quantity of rain which -had also fallen in the former part of the night. I felt rather chilly -myself, and sick at the stomach, but dared not let my men know it, lest -they should be disheartened. I gave the poor fellow some quinine, and -also took some myself. In an hour afterwards I gave him some James’s -powder, and twenty drops of Battley’s sedative of opium, which soon -caused him to throw out a copious perspiration, and the shivering -entirely ceased. Owing to this circumstance we did not commence our -journey till we had breakfasted. Having a small calabash of native -honey, which we had carried with us in case of illness, I put a portion -of it in some hot water, but having no meal we were obliged to use -water and honey alone. This materially aided the medicine in promoting -perspiration, and we were soon all right again. - -On the 1st of August we again resumed our journey, bearing N., and -varying during this day’s journey to 10° towards W., in expectation -of soon seeing our long-wished-for friend. This morning’s march -seemed rather irksome, as we proceeded full ten miles without meeting -any person of whom to inquire which was the right path; and several -by-paths communicating with the direct one, we were not aware which -to select. Fortunately we had taken the right path, by choosing the -one apparently most beaten, as we found by inquiry of a party whom we -overtook at the crossing of a path, resting under the shade of a large -tree. They seemed much alarmed, and several of them fled, leaving -behind them the loads they were carrying to market; but when they -found that we were friends, they soon returned, and seemed pleased to -find that we were not robbers, as they at first took us to be. - -We sat down under the tree, and entered into conversation, when we -ascertained that this party were going in the same direction as -ourselves, to a town some few miles distant. The principal of their -load were yams and manioc, kolla-nuts and ground beans, plantains -and bananas, the latter of which one old woman ventured to ask my -interpreter if I would partake of, which of course I readily accepted; -and she also gave my men some each. In return I gave her a paper -of needles. The rest of the party were then anxious to make me a -_dash_, as they call it, upon the same conditions; but as we had now -sufficient, we declined to accept of any more. We soon resumed our -journey, marching in single file. The women, as they went along, began -singing a song, to which they all kept good time. This seemed to give -fresh animation to my men, and we went along for a short time as gaily -as if we had been in the Dahoman kingdom. - -At thirteen miles, we arrived at a small town, or kroom, where there is -a large establishment, a sort of convent or residence, for Mahomedan -converts, who have either voluntarily or compulsorily renounced the -Pagan worship. These individuals are never suffered to come outside -of the walls till they have strictly conformed in every particular -with the Mahomedan religion for the space of thirteen moons, when they -are set at liberty, so far as to enjoy the privileges of the other -inhabitants; but should they attempt to leave the country for any other -kingdom, and be captured any time afterwards, they are sure to be put -to death. These individuals are all distinguished by a certain mark, -which is cut on the face, in addition to the mark of the tribe to which -they belong. - -A singular form exists in passing by this establishment. All persons -must walk past on their bare feet, or if they wear sandals, they must -take them off while they pass; and if riding on horseback, or carried -in any other way, they must dismount and walk; nor must they look back -till quite past the prescribed mark, when the passersby are again -allowed to mount and proceed. All traders carrying a certain quantity -of goods are obliged to pay a toll or duty, which goes towards the -support of this establishment. Any evasion or breach of these rules -is punished by flagellation and forfeiture of the whole of the goods -in their possession. We were not allowed to enter, but every inquiry -respecting the establishment was answered; but whether the account -given was true or false, I am unable to determine. - -The inmates are permitted to work at their trade, whatever it may be, -and are allowed the price of their labour, besides their subsistence -while they are within the walls. They are constantly attended by -priests, who visit the towns and markets within a certain distance, -and there levy contributions upon all articles of consumption, as well -as a duty which they demand upon cloths and ornaments, for the support -of their establishment. No doubt a great share of this sort of plunder -falls to themselves. Our company of trading-women left us here. - -After partaking of some refreshment we again marched. No man could -experience more anxiety than I did myself during this part of my -journey; for the next town we reached would decide the success of the -object I had in view. Many were the doubts and fears that assailed -me. Sometimes I thought Terrasso-weea might have gone on, and have -taken another direction; and again, even if he were there, perhaps my -information at Abomey respecting Mungo Park might be incorrect, and -Terrasso-weea might know nothing of the circumstances about which I -was interested. At other times my spirits were buoyed up with the -idea of seeing the white man, as he was represented to be. But, again, -the thought of returning to Dahomey, and of incurring the King’s -displeasure, who had been my best friend, and perhaps, also, of being -instrumental in causing the caboceer of my guard, an excellent man, -to lose his head, oppressed me. However, to balance this trouble, I -had the consolation of having visited a country which I should not -otherwise have seen; for even if I should survive the climate and -dangers incident to travellers in so barbarous a country, I might not -again have an opportunity of visiting it. - -While thus absorbed in varied reflections I had forgotten my -sand-glass, by which I measured the distance we marched, but my poor -fellows had been long accustomed to call out the number of quarters, or -glasses, which I caused every man to do aloud immediately after myself. -My glass was of a very simple construction. I took two small phials, -which had contained peppermint essence, which had been given to me -by an American captain. I measured my sand by time; then, when I had -ascertained the proper quantity, I poured out the remainder from the -opposite phial, and again secured the piece of tin between the mouths -of the phials, sealing them both together hermetically, and fixing -them lengthwise into a piece of palm stem, hollowed out on one side, -leaving one side of the phials exposed. This allowed me to observe -when the glass was run out. The moment we halted any where I slipped -the string, which was attached to each end, and hung about my neck, a -little round, so as to place the glasses in a horizontal position, and -stop their running until I again commenced marching. - -On our journey we overtook numbers of people, the female portion of -whom were all heavily laden with goods for the market of Adofoodia. -Some we met returning, who had already been there and disposed of their -goods. Even these people were aware of our coming, and informed us -that the King had told his people that I should be there some time in -the forenoon. This was considered by his subjects as an act of great -condescension on his part, as affording them an opportunity of seeing a -white man--a sight they had never witnessed. - -At twenty-eight miles we arrived at the anxiously-wished-for town of -Adofoodia, which is situated on a dry healthy plain, with a rich red -soil, the surface of a sandy nature, as if it had been carried over the -surface by water, at some remote period. We were met by the King and -his principal men, at a little distance from the outer gates. This -town is unlike many others; for it is not fenced with the prickly bush -I have before mentioned, though it is partially enclosed by clumps of -large shrubs, mixed with cotton and palm-trees. - -The town is surrounded by a very thick clay wall, about eighteen feet -high. The outer market is held in a large open space on the left after -entering the southern gate. It is shaded with large trees, having -leaves measuring nine inches across, and about twelve in length. As -soon as we entered the market thousands came running anxious to see -us, which would inevitably have caused great confusion, had royal -power not been exercised to maintain order. We had already told the -King our principal object in visiting his country. He had the courtesy -immediately to take us to that part of the market (which was some -distance) where Terrasso-weea had his goods laid out on large square -pieces of carpet, evidently of European manufacture, though of a -pattern I had never before seen. - -At a few yards from this spot we were desired to halt, and the King’s -chief messenger was sent forward to acquaint Terrasso-weea with our -arrival. However, he had been already made aware of the fact, and -had retired to his quarters to change his tobe. The messenger soon -arrived, accompanied by Terrasso-weea, who prostrated himself before -the King, who was on my right and a little in advance. The King -politely informed him that he had taken upon himself to introduce to -him a stranger who had come to see him from a far country. Whereupon -the merchant again prostrated himself and kissed the ground. Then he -arose and walked slowly towards me, holding out his hand with a smile -of satisfaction beaming in his venerable countenance. He said he was -truly happy to see me. It was, he said, the second time he had seen a -white man in the course of his life. The merchant took from a leather -wallet, or spohran, hanging in front of his dress, similar to that of -a Highlander of Scotland, a small book written in Persian-Arabic. From -this he read some form of welcome. He then begged the King’s leave to -depart, which his Majesty, with every show of politeness, agreed to, at -the same time remarking that it was his right to have the first of my -company, being the principal object of my journey. After a little time -he should certainly claim the privilege of a palaver with the white man. - -We were then desired by the merchant to follow him. He first led us -to his stalls in the market, by the side of one of which was seated, -cross-legged, a dark swarthy man, but not much darker than some of -the Spaniards residing at Whydah. I was struck with the expression and -quick intelligent eye of this man, and could not help fancying that I -had seen the same individual at some previous period. The man eyed me -for some minutes with great interest, and at last suddenly advanced -towards me, holding out both his hands, and clasping his arms round -waist. - -I did not much relish this sort of embrace from a stranger; but, by -his expression, I could observe that the salute was friendly. He -then passed his hands down each side, pressing my person gently, in -a similar manner to the searchers in the docks. Then he explained -himself, to my great though agreeable surprise. He proved to be a -merchant whom I met with when we were at the town of Egga with the late -unfortunate Niger expedition. He was then accompanied by another man, -and was on a trading tour from Rabba, attending the market at Egga. I -was invited by the malaam of Egga to dine with him, for he invites all -strangers to take refreshment. It was in his house that I met these -two individuals, who seemed quite delighted to meet me. They stated -themselves to be natives of Tripoli. - -This man possessed great intelligence, and seemed anxious to afford any -information likely to be interesting to me. He informed me that his -companion was still at Rabba, trading from thence to Bornou. He was -himself employed by Terrasso-weea. While thus engaged in conversation, -a tall fine-looking man advanced towards us, with a very pleasing and -expressive smile on his countenance. To my great astonishment, this man -made me a bow, and addressed me, first in Spanish and then in English. - -I can scarcely remember any occurrence in my lifetime that gave me, for -the moment, more pleasure than this; such an incident being so little -anticipated by me in a region so distant from civilized intercourse. -This poor fellow gave me a brief but interesting account of himself, -which I here set down in as few words as possible. He was a native of -Bornou, but, in the wars, was taken and sold as a slave. From one party -to another he was disposed of, till he was brought to Whydah, where -he remained some months, and was well treated. He was then shipped -from thence to Bahia, and remained there as a slave for the space of -twenty-one years. During ten years of that period he was principal or -head cook to the firm of Boothby and Johnston, of Liverpool. - -When I told him I was well acquainted with Liverpool, he seemed quite -delighted, and expressed great anxiety to accompany me thither. He -spoke very highly of his former masters, and of the time of his -bondage as the happiest days of his life. I asked him how he came to -leave them. He informed me that he was liberated at the emancipation -of slaves held by British subjects, and that the early dreams of his -childhood were still so strongly imprinted on his memory that he -preferred visiting his birth-place to remaining a hired servant in -Bahia. Well, he returned in a Brazilian schooner to Whydah, where he -was landed, and there fell in with several of his acquaintances of -Bahia. - -At Whydah he remained some months, then went to the Yarriba country, -and after some months arrived at his native town. But now the spell -was broken, and all his happy dreams of more than twenty years had -vanished. His native town had twice been burnt down by the enemy, -and was chiefly inhabited by strangers from a far country. He was -now an obscure stranger, and looked upon with suspicion, and his -long-cherished home was to him a desolate waste. With a lonely heart, -he again turned from the place, and when on his journey, intending to -return to the coast, and to Bahia if possible, he happened to meet -Terrasso-weea, at a town where he was trading. He was readily employed, -and had since travelled a great deal in different directions with his -master, whom he described to be an excellent man. Before leaving my -friend I ought to mention that he wrote his name, and described in -Spanish the time he remained in slavery, and also the names of Boothby -and Johnston. The date of his liberation is also noted. I have this -paper still in my possession. - -To return to Terrasso-weea, who had retired to a short distance as soon -as my Bahia friend had entered into conversation with me. Observing a -pause in our conversation he again came up to me, and shewed me all -his goods in the market. He had a great number of carriers, who convey -the goods on their heads. This was the only place where I had seen the -camel used for burden since leaving Tangiers. Terrasso-weea had eight -of these animals, besides a great number of men. - -The afternoon was now far advanced, and in consequence of my presence -Terrasso-weea ordered all his goods to be taken into his stores; so -that an opportunity might be afforded my friends, as well as himself, -of a palaver with a white man. Terrasso-weea then invited me to his -house, which was always occupied by some of his wives and an agent, -whether he were present or not. His dwelling and those of his domestics -formed a quadrangle of considerable extent. His own apartment was -richly ornamented with various rude designs, painted in different -colours upon the walls. Curiously carved stools were placed around the -apartment, and a clay couch, which was covered with several finely -worked mats of varied colours, over which was a richly worked native -wove cloth, bordered with a fringe of red and yellow silk. He was less -scrupulous than most Africans as regards the introduction of his wives, -though probably more with a view to gratify their curiosity than my -own. Some of them were considered as very handsome Africans, although -they varied very much in colour. A great many of them were Bornouese. - -After drinking water with the merchant, I handed him the paper -entrusted to me by the Mahomedan priest at Abomey. Upon this he -immediately started to his feet, and seemed almost frantic with joy. At -the receipt of the epistle, which was written in the Persian-Arabic, I -availed myself of this opportunity to inform him of my object in coming -to this country: but the perusal of the note had already made him -aware that the object of my inquiry was to learn something respecting -the fate of the lamented Mungo Park. He said he was anxious to give me -all the information in his power respecting the death of that intrepid -traveller. His account I shall here narrate as nearly as possible as he -related it to me. - -Terrasso-weea stated, that when he was a young man and living in -Yaouri, with the king of that place, as third malaam, or priest, a very -tall white man came down the great river Joleeba, having a very large -canoe, the centre covered over with matting in the form of a tent. He -was accompanied by several black men, and had one sheep and several -goats, with a few fowls, in the canoe, which they carried with them -for food. Amongst the crew was one man, a native of the neighbourhood -of Yaouri, whose name was Amadi Fatuma. This man had accompanied Mungo -Park from a town at a considerable distance higher up the river, -where he had gone with a trading caravan. As soon as this man arrived -at Yaouri, his native place, he of course left the canoe, but had -previously received payment. This cunning fellow advised Park to stop -at Yaouri to purchase some necessary provisions, declaring that he -could procure them cheaper by his assistance. Park accordingly went on -shore, and was introduced to the King, who supplied him with what he -required for subsistence, for which he paid him his full demand. - -Soon after he retired to his canoe, to prepare for sailing; but on -his way, one of the King’s messengers overtook him, stating that -Amadi Fatuma had complained to the King that Mr. Park had not paid -him any wages, nor had he given him any thing as a dash; and that the -King had sent officers to detain Park till the demand was paid. Park -indignantly denied the truth of this assertion, and determined not to -yield to the imposition, but immediately stepped on board his canoe, -accompanied by the party who had been with him on shore. He desired -the messenger to return, and bring Amadi Fatuma to make his claim in -person. Amadi did return, accompanied by the malaam priest, that is, -the chief of the priesthood, Terrasso-weea being already present. He -then in person boldly demanded his wages, declaring that he had not -been paid according to his agreement, although all Park’s people stated -they saw him paid a great deal more than was agreed. Terrasso-weea says -he is doubtful whether the King, who was a despotic tyrant, had not -encouraged or urged Amadi to make his dishonest demand, for many people -believed the white man’s tale. - -However, the King’s orders were directed to be enforced; and when -Park’s people were in the act of loosening the painter of the canoe, -which was made fast to a stump of a tree, or a post driven into the -bank for that purpose, one of the King’s officers seized hold of the -gunwale of the canoe to detain it, when Park, with a sabre, at one blow -cut the officer’s hand off. This exasperated the natives, who raised a -continuous yell, and at the same time threw a number of stones into the -canoe. Whereupon Park fired many times into the crowd, killing several -and wounding many. - -It was not till then that a general attack was made, for many of the -people were in favour of Park, if they had dared to show it. Soon -after the attack Park was killed, or at least mortally wounded, so -that he died soon after he was taken into the presence of the King, -who pretended to feel regret that the charge had not been paid without -resorting to such a measure. Nearly all who were in the canoe were -killed or mortally wounded. Park with his own hands fired the guns, -while the others were loading the several muskets in their possession. -The arms used by the natives were bows and spears. - -Terrasso-weea was during the whole time an eyewitness of this scene, -and he declares it to be his opinion, that had Park, after severing the -hand, pushed off his canoe, and proceeded down the river, he might have -got off without any more injury than the pelting with the stones. I -questioned him respecting the falls represented to have been the cause -of his canoe upsetting; but he declared that there are no such falls -as to impede in any way the navigation of a canoe of any size for more -than two hundred miles higher up; but merely a rapid current passing -between some large boulders of granite, between which he had himself -passed nearly the number of days in two moons. - -He further stated in reply to questions from me, that Park was taken -out of his canoe alive, but would not speak when taken before the King. -All the property in the canoe was claimed by the King, and some of it -distributed in presents to his courtiers. Terrasso-weea was presented -with a small box, which, by his description, was either a tobacco-box -and stopper, or a snuff-box and tooth-pick, but I should suppose the -former. - -I made minute inquiry respecting his papers, and was informed that -about twenty-six moons after the occurrence, a white man came from -Tripoli and purchased some large papers with crooked lines and much -of writing upon them. These papers were secured in a long metal tube. -I asked if he were not mistaken in the man who purchased the papers -coming from Tripoli, and whether it was not from Constantinople. -At this question, the merchant seemed a little offended, and again -asserted that the man came from Tripoli. He said he purchased the -papers at a high price, and when he had departed, a messenger was sent -after him by the King to recall him, when another demand was made upon -him, equal to the first payment before he was allowed to depart. - -The other books in Park’s possession were sold in parts to the -different priests and malaams, to make into amulets, which consist -of slips of the paper rolled up hard, and sewn into a piece of -fancy-coloured and stitched leather, and are suspended by a neatly -plaited or twisted thong of goat-skin round the neck. He believed that -some amulets had been carried more than two hundred leagues, or sixty -days’ journey. I asked him how he came to leave the service of the -King of Yaouri. In reply he told me that he had been six years without -receiving any pay, and had ventured to solicit part payment, when -the King told him that his insolence deserved death, which punishment -he would certainly inflict, threatening the same fate to the priest -I had seen at Abomey. Upon this threat, the two priests determined -on making their escape, which they with difficulty effected; and had -they not been in favour with the people, and the King disliked for his -barbarity, their escape would have been impossible. - -Having some pecuniary means they retreated to the kingdom of -Bornou, where they remained for some years, living in the capacity -of priests, and there they gained the favour of the sheik or king; -but, unfortunately, the country becoming involved in war, and their -master beheaded, they were compelled again to retreat, and ever since -had been travelling as merchants, sometimes remaining four or five -moons in one town. Terrasso-weea was also a dealer in slaves, when -it suited his purpose. The goods in which he traded were chiefly -Bornou ornaments--armlets, bracelets, and anklets, very heavy and -richly chased or carved; native razors and beads, cloths of various -manufacture and colours, various-coloured tobes, and neatly carved -wooden bowls, bows and arrows, some brass rods, no doubt of European -manufacture. - -During our conversation my friend, the Bahia cook, seemed very anxious -to ask some questions. I could not help admiring the difference between -the sagacious behaviour of this man and that of his uncivilized -brethren around him. He asked me a great many questions respecting -Boothby and Johnston, and begged me to call on the firm, and deliver -certain messages on my return to England. He intended to embrace -the first opportunity of returning to Whydah, where he had some -acquaintances, for he was not now comfortable, being entirely shut -out from the civilized world. If he could only hear of any of his old -master’s family being still alive in Liverpool, he would yet endeavour -to get a passage thither.[16] The King had sent provision to us, -and our host had also furnished us with more than a sufficiency; my -excellent friend the cook begging to perform the cooking, declaring -that it did his heart good to wait on a white man, but more especially -an Englishman. - -My friend and old acquaintance, the Tripoli man, seemed anxious to -learn something of the steamers composing the Niger expedition. It -appeared that he was quite acquainted with the disastrous fate of that -expedition, and also with the abandonment of the model farm, which -he says he himself visited after he saw me at Egga. He says that the -natives regretted much the abandonment of the farm, but the people -are still in hopes of our again returning to trade with them. So that -though the lives of many good men were sacrificed, the expedition has -excited an inclination to trade, which must always be the leading means -of civilization. - -The King now sent his messengers to ask if I had finished my palaver, -as he wished me and the merchant to pay him a visit at his palace. -Thither we accompanied the messenger, and found his Majesty seated -cross-legged on a square piece of Turkey carpet. He had two large brass -pans beside him, without any contents, consequently I suppose they were -merely used as ornaments. He had two of his principals sitting close by -him; these were his principal malaams. Upon my approach he rose from -his position, and shook hands with me, and then reseated himself on a -low, richly-carved stool, the malaams each nursing a leg on their lap. - -The sun was now set, and this interview was by torch-light. The King -asked a great many questions about the sovereign of my country, and -when told that the monarch was a woman he seemed confounded. He next -asked me if she had many husbands, and when I told him that she had -only one, he shrunk up his shoulders. He then inquired if she went out -to war in person. In fact, his inquiries were endless. Our palaver -lasted about an hour, at the end of which we were allowed to retire. - -We returned to the house of the merchant, where we had supper, and -were afterwards accommodated with a comfortable mat and cloth to sleep -upon. I slept very soundly, and did not awake till aroused by the noise -of people getting their goods ready for the market. There are several -markets in this town, consequently they are held on different days. I -arose, and the Bahia cook had prepared some delicious dishes for my -breakfast. The poor fellow seemed quite delighted to attend to my wants. - -At breakfast I ate by myself, the merchant preferring other dishes. -I made inquiry respecting the distance to Timbuctoo. He said that he -had come from Timbuctoo in ten days, by commencing his journey before -the sun, and travelling all day, only stopping to eat once. I found -by comparing the day’s journey that he had come from the Dabadab -Mountains. Thirty miles was about his day’s journey. He described -Timbuctoo as not nearly so large as Adofoodia, and that it was only -remarkable as a mart for the exchange of goods as being convenient for -that purpose. It is a great salt market, but has no manufacture. - -The natives are chiefly employed in loading and unloading goods for the -different traders, who assemble here to meet the various caravans and -canoes, which arrive there at certain periods. A high duty is imposed -upon every article of trade carried thither, in consequence of which -great disturbance has been caused of late years, by the merchants -refusing to pay it. Timbuctoo is described as being a considerable -distance from the Joleeba, or Niger, up a tributary stream. -Terrasso-weea informed me, as also the Tripoli merchant, that there are -thirty-six branches or tributary rivers. All of these within one league -run into the Niger, or Joleeba, near the Timbuctoo branch. Adofoodia is -as large as Abomey, and its trade nearly equal in native merchandise. -It is by observation, in latitude 13° 6ʹ N. and by reckoning 1° 3ʹ East -longitude. - -The market at Adofoodia is well supplied with nearly every article -already mentioned, except tobacco, which I did not observe. Slaves -are here sold in great numbers. During my stroll round the town I was -followed by dense crowds of people wherever I went. Upon my return to -my quarters, I was visited by the King, who expressed a wish to see me -fire out of my gun. - -To gratify his curiosity I shot a pigeon which was flying past. This -excited great surprise. He sent me a head of cowries to treat my men on -my return to Dahomey. I had now only a few knives left, two of which -I gave him, as well as some needles. I also gave some presents to my -other kind friends, with whom I felt myself quite at home. They pressed -me hard to stop another day, but circumstances would not permit me, and -after being furnished with another head of cowries by Terrasso-weea, -we marched on our return for the Kong Mountains, during which nothing -very extraordinary occurred further than a slight fever; and on the -13th August, in the evening, we once more, to my great joy, arrived at -Baffo, where I found my guard and the captain almost in despair. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[16] I have, since my return, called on the firm of Messrs. Boothby and -Johnston, and found this story perfectly correct. His old masters gave -him an excellent character. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Return to Baffo--Anxiety of my Caboceer--Rejoicings for my Return--Our - March--Fine Plain--Plants--Neutral Ground--Natives of the Dassa - Mountains--Agriculture--The Annagoos, dangerous Enemies--Poisoned - Arrows--Poisonous Plants--Alarm of my Attendants on my plucking - it--Fatal Effects of this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives--Number - of the Natives blind, supposed to be the result of it--Unsuccessful - Attack on them by the Dahomans--Spiral Rocks--Hostile Demeanour - of the Natives--They follow us with Menaces--Some Account - of these Mountaineers, and of the Dassa Mountains--The Blue - Eagle--Cataracts--Beautiful Plain--One of my Cases of Rum broken by - a Carrier--Twisted Marble of Variegated Colours--Path covered with - Pepper-trees--Monkeys--Logazohy--Mayho’s Town--The Caboceer--The - Merchants--Their Names--Carelessness with respect to Fire--Visit of - the Caboceer. - - -I was told by some of my people whom I had left at Baffo, that the -captain or caboceer had almost starved himself, having for some days -after my march from Baffo to the Fellattah country refused food. He -expressed his certain belief that in the event of his returning without -me to Abomey he should lose his head. The character of the Dahoman -is proverbial for being easily depressed, and as easily elevated. I -was certainly a very welcome sight to all my people whom I had left -at Baffo. Immediately after my arrival a messenger was despatched to -Abomey to acquaint the King with my return. He had sent a messenger -daily to Baffo to ascertain whether any tidings had been obtained of -my safety. These communications were kept up by a number of messengers -stationed at intervals between Abomey and Baffo. After a short palaver, -in which my motives for clandestinely leaving Baffo were condemned by -them and justified by myself, I broached one of the rum kegs I had left -at Baffo when I left for the Dabadab Mountains, and gave each of my -people a dram. This soon settled all differences, and in a short time -the merry dance succeeded to doubts and extreme anxiety. - -The whole of the following day, August 14th, was spent in rejoicing, -drinking peto, and dancing; and early on the following morning -arrangements were made for marching on our return to Abomey. My -excellent old friend Kpatchie, the caboceer of Zoglogbo, who had spent -the evening with us, was again at Baffo by day-break, with a guard -of one hundred men to accompany me on the first part of my journey. -The caboceer of Baffo, Agassadoo, had also one hundred men ready to -accompany me, making in all, with my own people, three hundred armed -men. My men, who accompanied me on my journey to Adofoodia, through the -excessive fatigue which they had undergone and too freely indulging on -the previous night, were so completely worn out and feverish, that it -was arranged to leave them to their own discretion to return to Abomey -by the nearest route; but with orders not to be later than ourselves in -arriving in the capital. - -With great satisfaction to myself and the Dahoman soldiers, we now -commenced our march for the town of Logazohy, bearing N.N.W. Our -march was across a fine plain, partly cultivated, with a crescent of -mountains, called the Dassa Mountains, to the south and west. This -valley, or plain, is well watered by small streams and springs of -various qualities, and the surface of the soil is of a sandy clay. -In crossing it I observed many different species of bulbous plants, -of the flag tribe, which I had not noticed previously in any part of -Africa I had yet visited; some of their blossoms or flowers appeared -very much like the breast of a partridge in colour, and resembled in -shape and texture the wing of the dragon-fly. A certain distance from -Baffo, after emerging into the plain, is considered neutral ground -between the Annagoos and Mahees, the former occupying the whole of -the chain of the Dassa Mountains, and denouncing all intercourse with -their neighbours on either side of the mountains. They are consequently -deficient in every article of European manufacture, possessed by -their trading neighbours. They are contented, however, with their own -resources, and, according to the old adage, that necessity is the -mother of invention, they are considered much more ingenious than their -rival neighbours. They are also good farmers, and like the Mahees -and Dahomans, in the vicinity of their own towns, they hold farms by -hereditary right, a method which does not exist in any part of the West -Coast. There, generally, after one man has obtained a single crop from -any piece of land, he is too indolent to follow up cultivation for a -second, and consequently the ground is either left to be overrun with -spontaneous vegetation, or to be taken possession of by another party. - -The Annagoos of the Dassa mountains are considered dangerous enemies, -although by no means distinguished for their valour or gallantry, but -on account of their superior skill in the manufacture of different -poisons. Perhaps the opinion entertained of these people may arise -from superstition, but it is certain that a plant from which the -strongest poison is extracted grows in abundance at the base of these -mountains, and that with this the poison for their arrows is prepared. -This plant grows about eight feet high, has a round stem about the -thickness of a man’s thigh, and is of a greenish grey colour. Its stems -are fluted triangularly, and shoot from the main trunk at regular -intervals. The stems or major branches also send forth minor ones -bearing a resemblance and proportion to the horns of a species of deer -or antelope abundant in this country. It is of the cactus tribe, and -the whole is of a fleshy nature, but quite smooth and without prickles, -growing almost without soil on the bare surface of the granite rock, -and receiving nourishment from its long fleshy roots, which run in -different directions, till they find some narrow fracture or crevice, -into which they insert themselves. Their growth is very rapid. - -I had been cautioned by my Dahoman caboceer, early in the morning -previous to our marching, not to touch either a flower or a shrub of -any description, or even pick up a pebble, as I had been in the habit -of doing when I observed any thing new on my journey. I took little -heed of this wholesome injunction, supposing that his motives were -merely to prevent any delay on the road, as the day was likely to be -rainy. Upon observing a succession of this plant, as I rode along, I -carelessly laid hold of and broke off a portion of the stem of one, -which was extremely brittle. A yell was instantly raised amongst my -soldiers, and in a moment it was snatched out of my hand, and thrown a -considerable distance from the path, while another soldier seized my -horse’s head and pulled it on one side from the plant. - -Upon inquiring the cause of such an unceremonious proceeding, I was -assured, that I had run into extreme danger myself, as well as all -those near my person, as this plant was the most deadly poison to -be found in that country, and that even the vapour from a fracture -or wound in the stem or any other part of it, from which a milky -liquid almost in a stream exudes, which comes in contact with the -eye, invariably causes total blindness, and death immediately any -particle of the juice comes in contact with the blood. Be this as it -may, I certainly observed in Logazohy and some neighbouring krooms an -extraordinary number of blind persons, as well as blind dogs, which -naturally excited my curiosity. I thought that this was occasioned by -the ravages of the small-pox, but I observed that many were totally -blind where no signs of small-pox were visible, (though this disease -is very prevalent here as well as in all the neighbouring kingdoms to -the north and east of these mountains,) but upon inquiry, I found that -the blindness was attributed to coming in contact with this plant.[17] - -None but the inhabitants of the Dassa mountains, it is said, can safely -make use of this plant. It was also stated to me, that three years -ago, when an attempt was made upon a certain large town, on one of -these mountains, the inhabitants poisoned the waters which ran near the -Dahoman camp, from which the besiegers obtained their supplies, and in -consequence, that some thousands of the Dahoman army perished in the -most excruciating agony. On this account the siege was abandoned. No -other attempt has ever since been made to take this town, though wells -might be dug and water obtained with very little trouble, for springs -are numerous and copious in this neighbourhood. - -Previous to our arrival at the mountain-pass which divides the -crescent, through which we marched in crossing this range of -mountains, we passed many singularly formed spiral rocks, upon some -of which were resting immense blocks of the same material, placed -horizontally. Upon several of these apparently dangerous precipices, -men were perched, and even dogs with them, each man armed with bow and -arrow, watching us as we passed. At the moment I was quite unaware of -their motive for watching us so narrowly, and concluded that it was -merely the curiosity of seeing us as we passed, but we had not gone -more than a very short distance before I found out their motive. These -selfish people, besides shunning all intercourse with other tribes, -will not allow even a pebble, or any thing dead or alive, not _even a -serpent_, to be carried into another country. Not being made acquainted -with this circumstance, (though I had been cautioned without any reason -being assigned by my caboceer,) I asked one of my private servants to -pick up a piece of stone of an unusual appearance. As soon as this -was observed by them, a Dassa bowman ran up nearly alongside of me, -raising several hideous yells, accompanied with menacing gestures. I -did not know their language, and the Dahomans only understood what -was meant by the bowman’s motions directing me to give up the stone. -His yell brought in less than five minutes many hundreds of men and -boys, all armed with bows and arrows, many of whom had their arrows -already resting on the string. My caboceer, who had now placed himself -alongside of my horse, reminded me of the caution he had given me. - -The Dassa people were still advancing alongside of us, continuing their -hideous yells. Observing this, I asked the meaning of their following -us, and was told that they were singing the stranger’s praise, but -their gestures and menacing attitudes convinced me that it was not so, -though to drown the noise, my own people began a song in praise of -the “king’s stranger,” as they called me. At last one of the Dahomans -admitted, that, although he was unacquainted with their language, he -was certain the Dassa people were cursing us. Upon this I remonstrated -with the caboceer upon his suffering them to follow us in such a -menacing manner, and begged him to order the additional guard to load -their pieces, and give our pursuers a volley. He assured me that their -pieces had been loaded previous to our leaving Baffo, and that each -man had three bullets in his musket. He declared that he should like -to give them a volley, which he knew would soon disperse them, but -that the King had given him orders not on any account to commence -hostilities, except in the event of an attack, and then to retaliate -immediately with all his force. - -This was doubtless a more prudent course than I could at that moment -reconcile myself to, having already experienced the advantage of taking -the first step in an affray with Africans, but afterwards the King -of Dahomey argued the injustice of a first attack, as we were only -intruders in the Dassa territory, and had not come there to make war. I -had my carbine and both pistols heavily charged with slugs, and could -willingly have made the Dassa bowmen a present of a few when they first -came up alongside of me, had the caboceer allowed me. - -After accompanying us two miles in the manner I have described, that -is, till we reached the neutral ground on the N. W. side of the -mountains, they suddenly turned back towards their homes. My fine -old friend Kpatchie, and also the caboceer of Baffo, soon afterwards -left us to return to their respective abodes. It now came on to rain -heavily, rendering the path, which is of a light clay, extremely -slippery. - -Before leaving the natives of the Dassa mountains, it may not be -uninteresting to make a few observations respecting them. For -generations they have inhabited this range of mountains, though they -have been on several occasions disturbed by enemies, who however -have always been repulsed with loss. Their mountains are extremely -difficult of access; and, unlike any of their neighbours, they take the -precaution to preserve sufficient food for some months, in case of a -besieging force coming against them. This precaution, and the supply of -water from the mountain springs, enables them to withstand the force -and skill of any enemy. They speak a language quite distinct from that -of the neighbouring tribes, one instance of the inaccuracy of Mr. -Crowther’s assertion that all the tribes inhabiting the Kong Mountains, -from the Niger to the Ashantee country, speak the same language. - -I had several Yarriba and Houssa men with me, all of whom declared that -they could not speak the Dassa language. These mountaineers are selfish -and revengeful in the extreme, and are considered great cowards, for -they depend chiefly upon the chances of poisoning their enemy. They -are numerous on account of their never disposing of their slaves, and -polygamy is, as in most African kingdoms, allowed to any extent. Their -towns (those at least which we saw) were large and well-peopled, and -their position judiciously selected for defence. They do not keep -their cattle in herds on the plains, like their neighbours, but on the -mountains, which have more vegetation than most of the Mahee mountains -of the same height. They are great farmers and hunters. Regular markets -of exchange are established with one another. It is said that they have -a superior method of manufacturing iron, which has been observed in -their arrow-heads. Their worship is pagan. - -The west side of some of these mountains presents to the observer a -most singular appearance, being composed of immense blocks of stone, -(granite,) thrown by some volcanic power indiscriminately one upon -another, resembling at a distance the large towns built on other parts -of the mountains. The highest of the Dassa mountains, which is close on -the left or south side of the pass crossing this chain, is two thousand -five hundred feet high. The pass through these mountains is picturesque -and grand; huge blocks of granite resting on pivots and angles, almost -terrific to pass. The blue eagle, and various large birds of varied -plumage and forms, give a wild grandeur to the scene. The pass is -extremely rough, the traveller ascending and descending rocks, to the -distance of a mile, to avoid the deep pools in the hollows between -them, formed by the stream of considerable size which runs in the same -direction as the pass. The noise and gushing sound of the cataracts -reminded me of scenes far distant. I should have enjoyed it much better -had we not been annoyed by the Dassa people. - -It is remarkable, that in all the mountains in the interior I have -never observed a stone building, though stone might much easier be -obtained than the clay with which they are invariably built; for -instance, they carry clay from the plain for the purpose of building -upon granite rocks, on mountain-tops elevated two thousand feet from -their base. The lion, hyæna, and panther abound in these mountains, and -often commit great depredations. The antelope is also a resident here. - -After crossing the chain of the Dassa mountains, we entered another -beautiful plain, quite open to a distance of many miles to the -northward. The soil is of a light sandy clay and loam, well watered -by small streams, running to the N.E. The ground, in consequence of -the heavy rains, had, as I stated, become very slippery; and, whether -by accident or intentionally I cannot determine, one of my Dahoman -carriers, sent with me by Mayho, let fall from his head a large case, -containing bottles of rum, breaking all but two. One of the soldiers -who was close behind him stated that this act was intentional, and -the caboceer declared that he would report the slave’s conduct to his -master immediately upon his return to Abomey. It was an unfortunate -event to myself and the caboceer, especially as my stock of spirits -was now nearly exhausted, and we had still many towns to visit, -where in all such cases a present of a flask of rum is considered an -indispensable _dash_ to the caboceers and their head-men. - -Immediately after the case fell from the man’s head, one of the -soldiers placed it on its bottom, and I opened it. The box being pretty -closely packed, we managed to preserve a considerable portion of the -rum; but I had only two bottles, which I always ordered my own men to -carry in their havresacks, filled with water. We poured out the water -from these, and filled them with the dirty rum. The bottles having been -packed with straw, some of the soldiers wrung out the rum into their -calabashes, to drink. The remainder of the rum was distributed amongst -my people, with the exception of the unfortunate carrier, whom the -caboceer would not allow to taste it; and, as a farther punishment, he -was ordered to change his load for a much heavier one. The plain was -here thinly studded with palm and shea butter-trees. - -After marching about thirteen miles, we entered a thick wood, which -runs along the base of a second range or crescent of mountains, -similarly situated to the Dassa mountains, but of much less magnitude, -and thickly wooded to the top. The geology of this differs from the -Dassa range, being composed chiefly of limestone, and a beautifully -twisted or waved marble of variegated colours--yellow, white, blue, and -red. After passing about five miles along their base, under large trees -of various sorts, the rain falling in torrents, we arrived at the pass -across this second range. The path, though well trodden under foot, was -entirely covered with pepper trees, of the small Chili tribe, about ten -feet in height. - -These bushes proved very annoying for a distance of about two miles. -The branches of the pepper-trees extended across the path at about four -feet from the ground, where they were so firmly interwoven as almost to -unseat me from my saddle, and being in full bearing at this season the -annoyance was still greater, the seeds coming in contact with the face -and eyes, and causing actual torture. - -It was very agreeable again to see the open plain, which we found at a -short distance from the mountains, beautifully cultivated. I forgot to -mention, that during our passing over the last range, I observed some -very singularly marked monkeys, having a white streak across the upper -part of the forehead, white round the mouth, and on the tip of the -nose. These were much smaller than the black or brown monkey, and of a -slate-grey-coloured body. We passed several large shocks of beans or -peas, of a description I had not yet noticed. They appeared to be very -prolific, and were about the size of the horse-bean in England, but as -white as our white pea; the stalk about three feet long, and also of a -light colour. I found upon inquiry that these were preserved for seed, -which were to be immediately put into the ground, though they had only -been two days gathered. I was told that the seed would produce another -crop in the space of two moons and a half. In this country they have -also a great variety of the ground-bean and nut, which is also very -abundant. - -After twenty-one miles we arrived at the town of Logazohy, where, -although completely drenched by the day’s heavy rain, we were obliged -to remain in the market-place till the poor old caboceer, who was in a -very delicate state of health, could prepare himself for my reception, -as the King’s stranger. After the usual prostration and forms of -welcome, by drinking water, and then rum, we were led into a spacious -court-yard, where we observed a number of young female slaves, who -were very handsome, busily employed in grinding corn. They seemed to -have been taken unawares, for upon our approach they instantly fled. -We passed into a second and much smaller yard, where a good house for -myself and private servants was pointed out to me. This I ascertained -belonged to Mayho’s traders, who are stationed here. - -The town belonging to Mayho by right of conquest, the honour of -accommodating me with this apartment was claimed by these men, Mayho -having been appointed white man’s guardian or father during his -sojourn in the Dahoman kingdom. This circumstance seemed to cause a -certain degree of jealousy on the part of the caboceer and head men, -who insinuated that the apartments were not sufficiently good for the -King’s white stranger to lodge in. However, I expressed myself quite -satisfied and comfortable. After being supplied with a thick rush-mat -and a country-cloth, I stripped off all my wet clothes, and wrapped -myself in the cloth. - -The whole front of my house was open, consequently crowds, both young -and old of both sexes, pressed eagerly almost into my apartment, to -see my white skin, which seemed greatly to excite their curiosity. In -about an hour after our arrival, the caboceer sent ten large calabashes -of ready-cooked provisions for me to distribute amongst my people, -and a few minutes afterwards the merchants brought me thirty-three -more dishes, holding about twenty English bushels, with one live -Guinea-fowl, a duck of the Muscovy breed, and several common fowls. - -The merchants, six in number, upon presenting me with the provisions, -prostrated themselves, the principal a little in advance of the others, -when after rubbing the upper parts of their naked persons with the -dust, or rather mud, they raised themselves to their knees, upon which -they remained resting on their hams, the custom always in addressing a -superior. The principal or head man, acting as a spokesman, expressed -gratification at having an opportunity of displaying their gratitude -and good feeling towards their King and his stranger, who had -condescended to visit their country, and hoped that this would not be -the last opportunity which would be afforded them of testifying their -good feeling to an Englishman. They said that it was owing to the skill -and goodness of white men who brought white man’s goods into their -country, that they were enabled to keep up a trade superior to the -kingdoms in the interior; then after expressing a wish that I would -soon again pay them another visit, the head man begged that I would do -him the honour to enter their names in my book. They were as follows:-- - - Zisau. - Bossou. - Degano. - Ossou. - Doyou. - Bokaw. - -The caboceer and merchants were previously made aware of our intention -to visit their town, and were therefore enabled to get food prepared -for us. A strong fire was kindled inside my house, and my wet clothes -hung round to dry during the night. I have often been surprised at -their carelessness with respect to fire. During the rainy season it is -generally kindled inside their huts, which even in the centre seldom -exceed eight feet in height, and though the thatch reaches within three -feet of the ground, yet accidents seldom occur. It is true, they have -generally little to lose by fire, the extent of their furniture being -a stool or two, and a few earthen pots of native manufacture, in which -they cook their food, and a few gourds or calabashes. The roof alone -can be destroyed, the walls being thick and of clay, hardened by fire. - -August 16th.--Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer Chaou, -who according to custom came to wish me good morning. He introduced all -his head men to me, explained the nature of each of their offices. Soon -afterwards, a number of the caboceer’s wives arrived, accompanied by -double their own number of slaves loaded with provisions, which were -presented to myself and people. As soon as this ceremony was concluded, -the person appointed to taste each dish, as well as one of my own -people, partook of a small portion of each, to show us that there was -nothing poisonous contained in it. After the several dishes were all -distributed, Chaou, in a whisper, begged the captain of my guard to ask -if I would condescend to enter his own name and those of his head men -in my book. Of course I readily assented, and entered as follows:-- - - Chaou.[18] - Adjutabellee. - Douzougoukeny. - Amouzoukpway. - Bozou-nogoodithay. - Annessou. - Aladee. - Nah. - Dosoutimee. - Dojee. - Adjobolee. - Awalla. - Alee. - Atepwhahoo. - Asseedaw. - Agasahogloo. - Kadjo. - Kapo. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[17] After my return to Whydah, I happened to mention this circumstance -to a Portuguese slave-merchant, at the same time doubting the truth -of the powers of this plant. He assured me of the correctness of this -information, and that the same plant is to be found in the Brazils. - -[18] Caboceer. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Enter Logazohy in Regimentals--Received by the Caboceer, - attended by his Soldiers--Singular Mode of Dancing--Native - Jester--Description of the Town--Corn Mills--Presents from - Fetish-women--Agriculture--Prevalent Diseases--A disgusting Case of - Leprosy--Quarrel among my Carriers--My Illness--The Damadomy--Trees, - Shrubs--The Agbado--Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by - my Dahoman Guards--Savalu--Reception by the Caboceer--Picturesque - Situation of the Town--Caboceer’s House--His Wives--His Jester--My - Illness. - - -Previous to my leaving Abomey for the Mahee country, the King expressed -a desire that I should either enter the town, (where it might be -arranged for me to remain all night,) in regimentals; or if more -convenient to me, dress in them on the following morning, and proceed -a short distance out of the town, going through a formal reception by -the caboceer and head men. Accordingly, it was arranged that I should -remain one day for that purpose, and about ten o’clock, all being -ready, I, together with all my retinue, marched out of the town to the -distance of about half a mile, in the same direction as we entered. -We then countermarched, and were met by Chaou and head men, with his -guard of about eighty soldiers, armed with muskets and short swords. -As they advanced, a constant fire was kept up till within a few yards -of us. Then both parties halted; upon which the usual prostration and -palaver of welcome were as minutely observed as if he had not before -seen us. We afterwards drank water with each other, and then rum of a -very indifferent quality. Both parties then alternately went through -their exercise of attack and defence. Their mode of skirmishing is all -by stealth upon the enemy, and their charge is a wild disorderly rush, -without any line being preserved. Each soldier upon his return brings -with him a tuft of grass, or a piece of a bough of some description, to -represent a head which he is supposed to have just cut off. - -We then advanced to the town, where we formed up in the market-place. -Here each party alternately kept up what they called dancing, and -drinking rum and peto for about an hour. Their motion in dancing is -unlike that of any other country with which I am acquainted. They never -use their legs, except when making some extraordinary leap to change -their front in another direction, their principal motion being in the -hips and shoulders, which are thrown backwards and forwards in rapid -motion; sometimes their movements are, to any civilized being, of a -very disgusting nature. - -During this ceremony the market-place was crowded with spectators, who -seemed quite delighted with the performance. Each caboceer invariably -keeps a clown, who is selected according to his powers of humour, -many of them displaying considerable talent. At last a messenger came -to signify to Chaou that dinner was prepared for us, when we retired -to our houses, where we found not only an extravagant quantity of -provision, supplied by the caboceer, but also by the same merchants -who had already been so liberal. We were also supplied with a large -quantity of peto. - -After dinner I took a survey of the town, which for regularity and -neatness surpassed most of those I had yet visited in the Mahee -country. It is strongly fenced, has an inner wall, and a large outer -and inner market, well supplied with native produce and manufactures. -Rats, mice, and the guano are also sold in greater abundance for -consumption than in any other place I had seen. This was the first town -in which I observed any regularity or form of manufactory. - -In the principal square, which was entirely occupied by the caboceer -and retinue, nearly one side was occupied by corn-mills, where a number -of very handsome young female slaves were employed grinding corn. About -two yards distant, behind where the grinders were employed, was a line -of fires, parallel to the line of mills; each fire was attended by a -cook and an assistant. The whole was covered in with a roof neatly -thatched. The side of the building facing the square was open like a -shed. - -During the greater part of the afternoon I was beset with visitors, -bringing some trifling articles as presents, amongst whom were many -fetish-women, who brought me some eggs. These women are licensed -beggars, sanctioned by royalty, and possess great influence amongst the -people. They attend all public markets, and are entirely supported by -contributions, which are liberally bestowed from a dread of offending -them. The old caboceer, Chaou, paid me a visit, and earnestly inquired -if I could prescribe any medicine for a severe cough which much -annoyed him. He said that some of my soldiers told him I could cure -all diseases. I gave him a few colocinth and calomel pills, knowing -that he would not feel satisfied without something in the shape of -medicine,--in return for which he gave me a young bull. - -The land here is well cultivated, and bears excellent crops near the -town. The rocks are of granite, and singularly twisted and stratified -horizontally, with scarcely any dip, in sections of pure white, -resembling alum. - -Leprosy as well as small-pox appear to be the most prevalent diseases -here. The town of Logazohy contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants. -The cattle are handsome and numerous, with the exception of pigs, which -had lately suffered much from a disease resembling the small-pox. Very -few are now left in the country. - -Towards the evening I felt a little feverish, probably from recent -fatigue and sleeping in wet clothes. I subsequently ordered a bason -of gruel to be prepared for me, and took a dose of James’s powder and -some sedative of opium. Upon lying down for the night, my friend -the captain of my guard seemed much alarmed, for he saw that I was -ill. He was very anxious that I should not take any medicine, lest it -might kill me, but I assured him that I took it for the purpose of -getting well. Being extremely ill, I had given orders not to admit any -strangers into my apartment, or even into the yard, but one poor old -woman, who had a son suffering dreadfully from leprosy, managed to gain -admittance to me, bringing a present of two fowls and some eggs. These, -however, I declined to accept, on account of her poverty, but assured -her that if she would bring her son to me, I would give him some -medicine; and told the old dame that white man came to her country to -teach them and do them good, and at the same time explained to her that -my reason for not accepting her present, was not that I undervalued its -pecuniary worth, but from a conviction that she might sell them in the -market for her own benefit. - -Upon this, the poor old woman prostrated herself, and as usual covered -herself with mud, for the rain had been very heavy all the previous -day and night. She remained on her knees for some time, singing an -extemporary song in praise of the King’s stranger. She then departed -to bring her son, and in a short time returned with the unfortunate -object of her solicitude, who was decidedly the most loathsome creature -in human form I ever beheld. He was apparently about nineteen or twenty -years of age, and was covered with the loathsome disease from head to -foot except those parts which were ulcerated, with a discharge chiefly -from the arm-pits. The smell was so intolerable that my servants -retreated upon his approach. He was reduced to a mere skeleton, and -yet the poor fellow appeared not to suffer much pain, nor did any -particular organ seem to suffer more than another. - -This case being beyond my skill, I could only prescribe calomel pills, -and a few doses of salts. I also presented the mother with a few -needles and a thimble, for which she seemed truly grateful, pronouncing -a blessing upon me as she departed. At last I had an opportunity of -lying down to rest. Though suffering much from fever, I soon fell into -a confused sleep, from the powerful dose of opium I had taken. Early -in the morning I rose with a view of getting the greater part of my -journey over before the sun should reach the meridian, but after -breakfast, August 17th, some of my men beginning to dispute about -carrying the luggage as previously arranged, I was compelled to use -my horsewhip. The excitement produced by this disobedience suddenly -threw me into a violent chill, which commenced at the feet, and rapidly -rose upwards till it reached the pit of the stomach. Then sickness and -vomiting began, followed by violent headach and giddiness. - -This kind of attack is generally a prelude to a very severe and -dangerous fever. In a few minutes after the chill reached my chest, I -reeled and fell prostrate; but when the violent burning of the fever -commenced, the giddiness partly left me. I then took another strong -dose of opium and James’s powder, and lay down for two hours. I now -found myself in a violent perspiration, overcome by a sort of pleasing -stupor. This enabled me to bear up against the violence of the fever. - -I ordered my horse to be again got ready, in defiance of the kind -remonstrances of the captain of my guard, and commenced my journey, -bearing magnetic W.N.W. At a short distance from the town, we passed -over marble rocks, beautifully twisted; but, on entering the plain, -we again found the bed composed of fused iron ore, with shea-butter -and palm-trees, thinly spread over it, and many other trees, the names -and class of the greater part of which were strange to me, being -unacquainted with botany. - -At a short distance from the town of Logazohy, we crossed a small -stream of good water, about three feet deep and eight feet wide, -running eastward. This stream is named Damadomy. After crossing it, -I observed several large sycamore and ash trees, exactly similar to -those found in England, but of considerably larger growth, and the -bark more rough and fractured. Here also were numerous stunted shrubs, -of a peculiar description, which are very seldom met with, except in -this neighbourhood, and occupy a belt of country extending east and -west. One of these plants or shrubs is from four to six feet in height, -with numerous branches; both trunk and branches are very crooked, -and contain but very few leaves. The branches are nearly all of one -thickness, from the trunk to their top, which terminates abruptly. The -leaves are much smaller, but in shape resemble those of the laurel; -they are very fleshy, and of a pea-green colour. The bark is grey, -and also very fleshy; upon the whole this shrub has the appearance of -having been scorched and in a state of recovery. - - [Illustration: - - From a Sketch by Duncan Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. - - THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF LOGAZOHY.] - -At twelve miles distant, to the southward, I observed a range of -mountains, forming an arch of 90° S. and W. At eight miles further, -we arrived at the river Agbado, a rapid stream, twenty yards wide, -and only six feet deep, with steep banks densely wooded, with very -large trees, and a thick underwood. The river runs N.E. at this -point, but soon changed its course. When we reached it, we were much -disappointed (at least my guard pretended to be so) at not finding that -any arrangement had been made for our crossing the river. This, they -alleged, ought to have been done by the caboceer of Savalu, distant -only two miles, whom we had purposely come to visit. It appeared, -however, that the notice he had received of our intention to visit him -was so short, that he had scarcely any time to arrange himself and his -household. - -My conviction was, that this apparent neglect was the result of a -preconcerted arrangement, in order to give the Dahoman soldiers an -opportunity of exhibiting their skill as engineers. I proposed to swim -my horse and self across, but this was opposed by the caboceer, on -account of the rapidity of the stream. Besides, how were the officers’ -wives, who carried their baggage, and also my own carriers, to get -across? For this purpose I proposed rafts to be made from branches -of trees, cut into lengths and lashed together and passed across by -a rope, formed from the long fibres which grow downwards from the -branches of the large trees on this bank, resembling hundreds of ropes -of various thickness. These extraordinary fibres are sometimes thirty -and forty feet long, according to the height of the branches from which -they grow, and are extremely tough. They are pliable and of great -strength. When they reach the ground, they insert themselves to some -depth, and again take root, from which other trees spring upwards. They -frequently form a colonnade of considerable extent along the banks of -rivers, and resemble mangroves. - -My proposition was not approved of, and a council of officers being -held, it was in a short time determined to adopt rather a novel method, -which it may be interesting to describe. As I have already stated, -large trees, of a species which I have previously mentioned, grew on -the banks on either side of this river. A number of small trees were -cut, each of the private soldiers cutting with his short sabre, or -knife, till a sufficient number were thus obtained. These poles newly -cut were tied to the long fibres hanging perpendicularly from the -branches of the larger trees, and were then attached in succession, -horizontally, till they reached the hanging fibres of the trees on the -opposite bank. - -After having fixed two lines of poles across, in the manner I have -described, about one yard apart, short pieces of wood were cut and -placed across, and small boughs, and grass or reeds, placed on the top, -so that a suspension-bridge was thus simply constructed in the short -space of half an hour. The whole party then passed over in safety. -I was informed, in reply to a question, that this is by no means an -invention of the Dahomans, but has long been practised in Central -Africa, especially in time of war, and where the rivers are not too -wide. Floating bridges are also constructed in a similar manner, where -the above method cannot be adopted. - -After crossing this river we entered the Annagoo country. We halted -a short time on the bank, to give the caboceer of Savalu time to -prepare himself for our reception. A messenger now arrived to say that -he would shortly be ready to receive us. I here changed my dress, -and substituted my military uniform. This caboceer was described to -be a man of great wealth and power, and a great favourite with the -King of Dahomey. He is consequently allowed a considerable degree of -discretionary power beyond that of any other chief, the caboceer of -Whydah excepted. - -As soon as my rude toilet was finished, I mounted as a Life Guardsman, -but not quite so neat as when on duty at Whitehall. After advancing -about one mile towards the town, we were met by the caboceer under some -very large trees, where was a cranery. This place was delightfully -shaded. Here the captain of my guard and myself seated ourselves -under one of the trees, till this great personage made three times -a procession in a circle round us to the left, for it is considered -unlucky to form circle to the right. This caboceer appeared to consider -himself much above any other I had seen, either in the Mahee or -Dahoman kingdoms, now united. He would not condescend to walk, but was -carried round us in his hammock. He then alighted, and his hammock was -carried suspended to a pole, each end resting on the heads of two stout -slaves, who always proceeded at a trot. He advanced towards us on foot, -after he had displayed to his own satisfaction the richly ornamented -hammock in which he had been riding. He afterwards informed me that it -was presented to him by the King of Dahomey. He next went through the -usual ceremony of prostration, and rubbing himself with dust. He then -delivered a long address of welcome to the King’s English stranger, -finishing his harangue by saying that I was like to a man who had been -many moons searching in the bush for a large block of wood for his -fire, and had rejected many as being bad wood to burn, but to his great -satisfaction at last found a large tree of a peculiar description, -which burnt like a lamp. He said, that I in like manner had been -travelling through the Mahee and Fellattah countries, but during the -whole of my long journey I had not seen any town so great or so grand -as the town of Savalu, which I was about to enter. - -The caboceer, whose name is Bagadee, is a very fine stout handsome -black, of very pleasing expression and address, possessing great -intelligence; and having travelled a considerable distance in the -neighbouring kingdoms, he has a tolerable idea of the geography of -the surrounding country. As we advanced towards the town, which was -certainly the most picturesque and grand of any I had seen since -leaving the country of the Fellattahs, we ascended six platforms -in succession, of flights of steps naturally formed, of a very -peculiar sort of stone, resembling petrified wood, and stratified -perpendicularly. These steps extend upwards of a mile in length, and -each platform is of nearly the same breadth, preserving the same -throughout; so that an observer could scarcely be convinced that they -were formed by Nature, were he not aware of the generally indolent -character of the natives. These platforms were about fifty yards in -width, with numerous little villages situated thereon, apparently -occupied by farmers, and here all the cattle are kept, of which there -are great numbers: goats and sheep only are admitted in the town. The -mountain of Savalu, from which the town takes its name, is beautifully -wooded to the summit, with bold projecting rocks or precipices at -different distances, showing their hoary crowns and angles, forming -a beautiful back-ground to the town, which, independently of the -neighbouring kroom, is certainly larger than any town in the Mahee -country, and before it was ceded to the Dahomans was always considered -the capital or metropolis. The houses are much larger generally, -and built with more taste and uniformity than any Mahee town. The -caboceer’s house is two stories high, and built on a platform directly -overlooking the market-place. His house and the market are separated -by a wall about ten or twelve feet high. The windows or light-holes -of the upper story are considerably higher than the wall, so that the -inmates, chiefly the caboceer’s wives, can overlook the whole of the -market-place, and in fact the whole town, being situated on the base of -the mountain. - -We remained in the market-place about an hour and a half, drinking rum -and peto, the soldiers of each guard alternately dancing and keeping up -an irregular fire. During this time the caboceer’s wives were stealing -a peep through the windows, but the moment they were observed withdrew. -Amongst the soldiers of Savalu, I noticed the jester very particularly, -who certainly displayed more wit and fun than clowns generally do, in -endeavouring to fire off his musket, which several times missed fire; -upon which he shook out the whole of the priming, and spit into the -pan, and again snapped the piece as if expecting the explosion would -fellow. He also performed several other antics equally ridiculous. -At last we were allowed to retire to the quarters which had been -allotted to us. These were a considerable distance from the principal -market-place. - -We passed through several minor markets on our way to my quarters, -then from one court-yard to another, till we at last reached the house -appointed for us, which, according to my ideas, ill corresponded with -the description given by the young caboceer of his town. The house -was so low in the doorway, that I was compelled to enter on my hands -and knees, and when I had passed through a partition into the inner -apartment, which was as dark as a dungeon, I was obliged to burn a -light. I felt much annoyed at this, and refused to remain there, -looking upon it as an insult. Upon this circumstance being made known, -several of the trading merchants from Abomey kindly proffered me their -houses, provided the caboceer had no objections. - -A messenger was consequently despatched to communicate my -dissatisfaction with my lodgings to the caboceer, who appeared quite -surprised, and came back with my messenger to make personal inquiry -respecting it. Upon his inquiring why I objected to the apartment, -I told him my first impression was that it must have been used as a -prison, on account of its strength and darkness, being without any -aperture to admit of light, except the low doorway. - -In explanation he informed me, that in his country the greater part of -the houses were purposely so constructed, to prevent the inmates from -being seen by a passer-by, who might shoot them with their arrows, in -time of war, which was a common practice; and that this house had been -selected as a security against such an occurrence. However, I chose the -house of the merchant, which was tolerably comfortable; but felt rather -feverish, and had also a slight touch of ague. I found it necessary, -therefore, to take more medicine, which so much alarmed my caboceer, -that he refused all sorts of food whatever, complaining bitterly of -the advantage taken in stealing a march upon him into the country of -enemies, thereby endangering his life as well as my own. He declared -his conviction, that I had contracted my illness through excessive -fatigue and exposure in the Fellattah country. However, two doses of -James’s powder and opium considerably subdued my fever. Here we were, -as usual, supplied with large quantities of provision ready cooked, -both by the caboceer and merchants. Late in the evening the caboceer -again visited me, bringing with him some rum as well as some cherry -brandy, which he proudly boasted had been sent him by the King of -Dahomey. After he had distributed these, I gave him the contents of a -flask of rum from my own stores, a box of lucifer matches, and a large -Jew’s harp, which seemed to afford him much pleasure. At a late hour he -and his head-men retired to their homes, much to my satisfaction, for I -felt much in want of rest. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the - Natives--State Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to - the Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by - Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those - of his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim across the - Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty in getting my - Horse across--Fearlessness of the Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad - Roads--Jallakoo--Reception by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in - Regimentals before the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my - Illness--Description of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and - those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer. - - -August 18th.--We were visited early by the caboceer, who came to wish -us good morning, bringing with him another small flask of rum, with -which we drank each other’s health. He seemed very desirous to acquaint -me with his wealth and power, explaining that he held, under the King -of Dahomey, a discretionary power superior to any other caboceer, and -also the government of several neighbouring towns in the Mahee country, -as well as several large towns in his own country (Annagoo), which he -assisted the Dahomans in subduing. Savalu is the frontier town of the -Annagoo country, the natives of which are always considered a lawless, -marauding people, and habituated to acts of extreme cruelty. - -In a short time breakfast was brought; after partaking of which we -were again invited to the market-place, where many thousands, both -old and young, were assembled to see the white man. The crowd was so -great, that the ground-keepers were entirely overpowered, although -they used their immense whips with great violence and dexterity. It -is a singular fact, that the state constables in nearly all the large -towns of the Dahoman, Mahee, Fellattah, and Annagoo countries, are -selected from deformed persons. Many of them are armed with a bullock’s -tail dried with the skin on, and the long hair shaven off. This is a -merciless weapon when used with both hands, which is frequently the -case when authority is resisted. The offending parties are compelled -to kneel down, and to place a hand on each knee, the body bending -forward towards the constable, who inflicts his blows longitudinally -on the back. This is a very severe punishment, and is the mode adopted -for minor offences through the whole Dahoman kingdom. A dozen is the -greatest number I ever knew inflicted at one time on the same person. - -Some soldiers having been stationed to assist in keeping the ground, -something like order was restored, and the amusements commenced by the -caboceer circling round in his hammock, as on the previous afternoon. -During this a continual firing was kept up. He afterwards got out of -his hammock, and advanced within a few yards of me, when, as usual, -he went through the regular forms of prostration. He then examined -my horse and trappings, apparently with great interest. His soldiers -and head men then commenced dancing; and, as a matter of courtesy, my -caboceer condescended to dance with the same party. Their music was -rude, but not very unpleasant; they were wind instruments, similar to -the hautboy, accompanied with drums and calabashes, or gourds, covered -with net-work strung with human teeth. - -The fetish-women, who were at this period keeping up their annual -custom, which lasts during a whole moon, were then introduced. They -appeared to be the finest and handsomest women in the place. They were -richly ornamented with coral and brass bracelets or armlets, apparently -of Bornouese manufacture. Each wore, besides a country cloth, a large -silk handkerchief of European manufacture. I could scarcely refrain -from expressing my regret at seeing them prostrate themselves, and -besmearing themselves with dirt, after the pains which they had taken -to appear so neat and clean before this form of humiliation. - -As soon as this ceremony was finished, the whole party repeated a short -prayer, after which they commenced a dance by themselves, singing -some particular song, to which they kept time by clapping their hands -against those of their partner. My own soldiers next commenced dancing, -when they were joined by the principal men of Savalu, who considered -themselves highly honoured by being allowed to dance with my Dahoman -soldiers. - -After this sort of amusement had been concluded, I presented both -parties of soldiers with some rum, and took a stroll round the town to -examine the markets, and observe their mode of manufacture. This day, -however, had been set apart by order of the caboceer as a holiday, so -that scarcely any thing was exposed for sale in the market. However, -I had an opportunity of seeing the blacksmith and weaver at work. The -weavers here use a more perfect loom than the Fellattahs, and are also -much superior to any I observed in the Mahee country. At Savalu they -weave a sort of webbing similar to some of the fine silk webbing used -for gentlemen’s braces; but, upon a close inspection, I found that -several of the principal weavers used European manufactured thread, -both silk and cotton. - -In the whole of the countries I have visited, either on the coast, or -in the interior, they have no other method of spinning than by the -ancient distaff. I have often wondered at this, for their looms are -exactly on the same principle as those of Europe. They knit nightcaps -in great quantities here; and during my stay at Baffo a man knitted me -a pair of socks, from a pair I lent him as a pattern. These are still -in my possession. - -I asked permission to shoot some cranes in the cranery we passed -yesterday, but the caboceer would only allow me to shoot the grey ones. -The white cranes, he said, were the fetish-men to the grey ones. -The caboceer accompanied me, and seemed much surprised at my killing -one with so small a gun on the top of so high a tree, particularly -as he had never seen small shot used before. They generally use iron -bullets, rudely forged. I offered to shoot one with a gun belonging to -the principal warrior of my guard, but this he peremptorily refused, -declaring “that if white man fired out of his gun, black man can never -again kill any thing with the same piece.” To convince him of his -error, I offered to let him have a shot with mine, but even this he -declined. I afterwards learnt that they will not even allow their own -comrades to fire out of their guns. - -Upon my return home I found my court-yard covered with dishes of -provision, smoking hot, the merchants as well as the caboceer having -sent numerous dishes, as well as plenty of peto for my people to drink. -Soon after we had finished our meal, we were beset with fetish-women, -bringing small presents, received by them as tithes, on the last -market-day. Tithes are actually customary to fetish-women even in -Abomey. Although their present be ever so trifling, the acceptor is -considered as under a religious obligation to make a return of tenfold -value. - -One very fine old fetish-woman, accompanied by her two daughters, -presented me with some eggs, which she brought me on a soup plate of -English manufacture, for which I gave in return needles and thimbles. -With these they seemed much pleased, but unfortunately on their way -home they dropped the plate and broke it into several pieces. The young -ladies returned crying bitterly, earnestly entreating me to mend it, -and seemed still more grieved when I told them that it was beyond my -skill. To console them, however, I told them that I would certainly -send them one from Whydah by the Abomey messenger, who would forward it -to Savalu by the traders. This promise I fulfilled. - -Late in the evening the caboceer again visited me, when I presented -him with a few ornamental trinkets, as well as a knife and a pair of -scissors. With these he seemed pleased. I also presented his head -men, and the Abomey merchants who had treated us so kindly, with some -trifling articles. In return, they presented me with a live goat and -some fowls. - -August 19th.--Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer, -who came to pay his morning visit. The night had been very wet, and -I was still suffering a little from fever; however, I was determined -to proceed on my journey. We were furnished with a good breakfast, -of which I partook a little. I had now become quite the African in -my diet, which agreed with me very well, and I would recommend all -travellers to adopt the same plan. When my party were announced to -be all ready for the march, we were conducted through the principal -market-place, where we found a fine young bull tied to one of the -trees. The gay young caboceer here prostrated himself, and after the -usual rubbing with dirt, presented me with this bull, which he sent to -Abomey by carriers. - -During my stay at Savalu the caboceer supplied me with seventy-seven -large calabashes of ready-cooked provision, besides plenty of fruit, -the principal of which, in use at this season, were the gwaba, -pine-apple, oranges, popans, mangoes, and the kidney cachu. The -caboceer, before leaving his town, begged me to do him the honour to -insert his own and the name of his head men in my book. I here give -them, for they tend to show the names peculiar to different countries:-- - - Caboceer Bagadee. - Head men Agbuzzee. - - Kootakoo. - Naghwoolyaemadah. - Dissou. - Naghohennah. - Agyddymoosee. - Agbadyea. - Kpwaghooda. - Agoyae. - Daffo. - Bozavee. - Kudjo. - Koko. - Attlah. - Athaly. - Dakphway. - Boka. - Vaugh. - Kogilee. - Lyhoo. - Bossou. - Gbazoo. - Oosa. - Atholoo. - Mirahoo. - Modjekossee. - Azamodoko. - Jayaloogo. - Kudjo 2d. - Akyea. - Jagadidjee. - Yakadya. - - Caboceer’s Head wife Selamee - -The thermometer now ranged from 80° to 73° of Fahrenheit. - -It may be well to observe here, that the name of Kudjo is not peculiar -to this country, but rather to the Gold Coast, and is only given to -those who are born on particular days. - -After finishing the above ceremony, we marched on our journey, bearing -W.S.W., crossing the range of Savalu Mountains. The grass, which was -very long (being nearly six feet), and hanging across the path, quite -wet from the previous night’s rain, soon drenched us as much as a -heavy rain would have done, but the sun very soon dried all of us, -and perspiration succeeded. At two miles we reached a fine open plain -studded with shea butter-trees, now ripe; their fruit was lying in -large quantities under the trees. - -The direction of the path now changed more southward. Here we passed -numbers of ash-trees not different from that of Great Britain, except -that they had a rougher bark, with deeper fracture. Journeying a few -miles farther, we passed through some thick bush, where we found large -quantities of wild grapes hanging in bunches over the path; the vine -clinging to various trees, and running from one to another. This grape -was of the green tribe, very similar to those which ornament the walls -of our cottages in England, but the bunches were not so compact. At -eight miles, we crossed the River Zoka, running S.E. with a rapid -stream, on account of its being the rainy season. At nine miles we -crossed another brook, with excellent water, running in nearly the -same direction. - -At fourteen miles, we passed some curious shrubs of the same -description as I observed in the Fellattah country; although in full -vegetation, the leaves were coloured and marked like the feathers of a -partridge. There is here also a great variety of the aloe tribe, some -of which I found to change their colour and marks by transplanting to a -different soil. The wild gwaba is very abundant here, and much larger -than in the neighbourhood of Cape Coast. The yellow fig also abounds -here as well as the kolla-nut. - -At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river Zoka, which at this -place runs S.W., twenty yards wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were -detained upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain a canoe, -but as they are generally kept at a great distance from the paths, -it takes several hours to bring them to the place of crossing. In -this instance, however, we were totally defeated, for my messengers -returned with tidings that the canoe was broken, so that we had no -other method of getting across except by swimming. The stream at this -place was very rapid, consequently I deemed it prudent, not to swim -across on horseback, but put on my life-preserver (an American one). -Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use to me, but rather entangled -me; and I was consequently carried a considerable distance obliquely -down the stream. However, I landed safely on some rocks on the opposite -side, but in doing so struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion -of skin off as well as bruising it. - -My next object was to get my luggage across, now much diminished -both in bulk and weight. I caused some poles, which were growing in -abundance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and lashed together, in -the form of a raft. In a piece of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I -tied two bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball of sewing twine, -which was loosely placed in a coil to prevent its getting entangled. -The two bullets were then attached to a stouter piece of string, about -one yard in length, used to sling them across the river. After the -bullets were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to which a line -of about the substance of a clothes’ line was fixed, the other end -of which was fastened to the raft. This was placed on the water a -considerable distance above the landing-place, so as to allow for the -current. Two boxes were placed on the raft, and when ready I pulled -them across. This method was repeated until the whole of my luggage, as -well as that of my officers, was safely landed. - -By this time the greater part of my people had swam across also, but my -horse still remained. It was also fastened to the end of the raft line -and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached the opposite bank, -which was nearly perpendicular and the water deep, the poor animal -could not obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by the halter, -till the headstall gave way. The poor beast, already considerably -exhausted from exertion, now made again for the other side, where it -narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract formed of rocks a little -below the place of crossing. To my great satisfaction, however, the -noble little animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook itself, -and neighed, looking across as if conscious of its being on the wrong -side. The little fellow was again haltered with stronger material, and -was launched into the river. - -I now placed myself at a part of the bank close to a small creek, where -it reached me without difficulty, being lower down the stream. I at -once saddled him, and resumed our journey. - -I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner in which my caboceer and -head men’s wives took the water. They did not even require the raft to -carry their luggage across, the whole of which was contained in large -gourd calabashes, about two feet and a half diameter. These vessels -were guided across with one hand, while the other was used in swimming. -Immediately after crossing the river, it commenced raining very -heavily, and continued to do so for several hours. - -The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and -worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough -iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render -the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet -sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found -myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on -my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to -walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more -fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my long journey, -though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and -brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have -even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the -little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one -instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped -from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters -and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously -made a second attempt, in which it succeeded. - -Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we -were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night -was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with -little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots, -till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town -of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of -this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence. - -After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again in the original -kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that -direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place -by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official -affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age. -This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the -usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely -exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my -uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets -and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by -torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood, -which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes -smeared with the shea-butter. - -After entering the town, we were conducted to an inner market-place, -where we again halted to go through all the tedious ceremony of a -Dahoman reception. This I could very willingly have dispensed with, -for I now began to feel very uncomfortable, my under-clothing being -completely saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon, which had -now ceased. I also felt very sensibly an inclination to ague, which -was considerably advanced by being put into a new house, the walls and -thatch of which were quite green and open on three sides, which were -merely borne on wooden pillars, for they had been informed that I did -not like close or dark lodgings. I put up the little tent which I had -constructed inside of the house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush -mattress, which made an excellent bed, having been prepared for me, I -was placed inside of it, and a strong fire immediately kindled close -to me. I then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal, with which -I took a strong dose of James’s powder and opium, and in a short time -the ague ceased, but was immediately followed by a burning fever with -intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint of water every five -minutes, till at last the perspiration became so copious, that I felt -almost as wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt much easier, -and through the powerful influence of the opium I passed a night of -pleasant and happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely regretted -I could not realize. The caboceer, however, declared his night had -been anything but comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been -groaning and talking nearly the whole of it, which had much alarmed -him. I felt so considerably weakened from the violence of the attack, -and from such copious perspiration, and the stupifying effects of -the opium, that I was scarcely able to stand on my legs. I rallied, -however, and determined to resist as much as possible the powerful -influence of the fever, and with a little assistance I walked a few -times round the yard, in the centre of which was a fine large spring -well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of this I took a copious -draught, which considerably refreshed me. - -In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large -calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and -immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more -dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness -while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting -on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with -the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their -readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my comfort. After -this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy -caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill, -begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house -in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that -my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his -messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had -come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present -indisposition. - -As soon as possible I prepared myself, and proceeded to the court-yard -of the old caboceer, which was at some distance off. Having a great -many very low doorways to pass through, I was nearly bent double. -My horse also with difficulty passed through without his saddle, -consequently I was prevented mounting until I arrived at the caboceer’s -yard. Here I found the venerable chief seated under the shade of a -large cabbage-tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering the -court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on their knees, with their -hands together and in front of their faces, as if in the attitude of -prayer. Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands three times, -then a short pause ensued, and the same clapping of hands was repeated -twice more. This is a mode of salutation in Whydah to a superior, as -also as in all the Dahoman kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and -the cracking of the two second fingers of each hand, joined, in the -same manner as cracking the thumb and finger. The old man seemed much -interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also with my arms, and the -manner of placing them on the saddle to carry them. He next put a great -many questions to me respecting white man’s country, and seemed much -astonished at my answers. - -The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-surfaced rock, at the -base of a mountain, from which the town takes its name. This is the -most picturesque of all the mountains I have yet seen in the Mahee -or Dahoman kingdom. One part of it is formed by the largest blocks -of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon each other: in some -respects their position was not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees -in many instances grew between these immense rocks, which support the -upper or horizontal ones. In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand -and so picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also the last we -touch upon on our return to Abomey. - -Here I made particular inquiry respecting their mode of agriculture, -and the sort of grain principally used, as well as what was the most -profitable, and its time of ripening. Guinea corn is much used here, -as well as several sorts of maize and rice. I was informed that in -this country the Guinea corn requires nearly seven moons to ripen, -rice five, and maize between four and five months, though at Setta and -Paweea I found a smaller sort of Indian corn, which ripens in two and -a half and three moons, and also another sort which ripens in four -moons. They never consider the utility of selecting any particular -sort of seed; but after my return to Abomey, the King, who is a great -agriculturist, informed me that the latest corn known will, if planted -in the proper season, ripen in less than four moons, and also told me -that the time of ripening had in many instances been mistaken, from -a want of knowledge, and planting the corn too soon before the rainy -season. - -We were supplied with plenty of peto during our palaver. Here were -several beautiful crown-birds walking about the market-place quite -tame. The old caboceer expressed great anxiety to have the names of -himself and head men, as well as his principal wive’s name, recorded in -my book; and I here give them according to my promise, as follows:-- - - First Caboceer Nakoomakay. - Wife’s name Agbally. - Second Caboceer Adyamee. - Wife’s name Whendie. - - -Head men. - - Tetay.[19] - Atakpa. - Bosou.[19] - Kudjo.[19] - Adamazo. - Chigyea. - Dakay. - Ozee. - Mokosa. - Wzoto. - Tootee. - Takpwadda. - -After this ceremony I was allowed to depart to my own quarters, where -I changed my dress, but had scarcely finished when I was besieged -by visitors from all parts of the town, as well as the neighbouring -villages, many of whom brought me provisions ready cooked, and several -live animals. One rich merchant, named Sisinau, brought me thirty-two -large calabashes of provision, as well as plenty of peto. Many of the -fetish-men and women brought me gruels of various compositions, all of -which were very palatable, being generally sweetened with wild honey, -which is very abundant in the whole of the country traversed in this -direction. - -In the evening I was again visited by the two caboceers, whom I -treated with a flask of rum to distribute amongst his head men. I -also gave him a piece of romall (cloth), which I invariably gave the -caboceers in whose towns I lodged, as well as some Jew’s harps, and -two knives, with some papers of needles and a few thimbles, which were -much prized. I then signified my intention to proceed on my journey -early next morning, when the old man pressed me much to stop another -day. This I certainly would have done, had I not been afraid of being -more seriously attacked by fever and ague, as my quarters were very -pleasant, and the people extremely kind. A great many visitors came -with small presents during the remainder of the evening to inquire -after my health, as well as for the purpose of seeing white man, to -all of whom I gave some trifling article in return. The thermometer -ranged at Jallakoo from 71° to 80°, Fahrenheit, which, it will be -observed, is much colder than on the coast in the coldest season. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[19] The names Tetay, Bosou, and Kudjo, are all common along the coast -from Whydah to Cape Coast, and are given from the days of the week on -which they are born. - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - My continued Illness--The Koffo--The Langhbo--Bivouac--Keep - Sentinel--Shea-butter Trees--Springs impregnated with - Iron--Gijah--Poverty of the Caboceer--Hospitality of Atihoh, the - Merchant--Doko--Met by the Avoga of Whydah--Etiquette with regard to - the Time of entering a Town--Enter Abomey--My Servant Maurice takes - to his Bed--Sudden Change in the Temperature--Visit to the King--His - gratification at my safe Return--My Conversation with his Majesty--His - Views with regard to the Slave Trade--His desire to cede Whydah to the - English Government--Dictates a Letter to me to that effect--His Costly - Tobes--Singular Piece of Patch-Work. - - -August 21st.--Early in the morning I got up to prepare for the march, -but although the attack of ague had been lighter than on the previous -night, I still felt extremely weak and in low spirits. To remedy this, -I again resorted to another dose of sedative of opium, which in a -short time operated effectually. The caboceers and a great part of -the population accompanied me some distance out of the town, during -which the Jallakoo soldiers kept up a constant but irregular fire of -musketry. The old man then shook hands, expressing every good wish for -my future success, hoping that I should soon return to his country -again, that he might see me once more before he should die. This solemn -expression made for a time a deep impression on my mind. Though in a -comparatively savage state this venerable patriarch was conscious that -the hand of death would soon be upon him. - -Our bearing was now SS.W. and the plain thickly wooded with shea-butter -and other trees. The road was extremely bad, with rocks resembling -petrified wood of very fine grain with iron-stone rock. The grass was -eight feet long and resembled reeds. At ten miles and a half we crossed -the river Koffo, running NN.E. and at seventeen and a half we crossed -the river Langhbo, running eastward. Being much fatigued, and still -suffering from fever, and no town or village near, we resolved to -encamp on the plain, near this river, where we were sure of obtaining -water. The grass being extremely long, we were obliged to cut it down, -wherever a party of ten or a dozen men selected a place to lie down. -Watch fires were also kindled around the camp, and fortunately, from -the ample means afforded at Jallakoo, we were pretty well stocked with -provisions for one night at least. - -This place not being far distant from the Annagoo country, which -people in former times had frequently sent kidnapping parties -stealthily into the outskirts of the Dahoman kingdom, it was considered -necessary to keep sentinels and outposts during the night. Every man -also examined his piece to ascertain if the priming were good. I also -examined the caps of my own piece, but this seemed the reverse of -satisfactory. - -The caboceer asked me if I was afraid to trust myself with him, -assuring me that my guard, he knew, would perish to a man before they -would allow me to be molested. I admitted his assertion, but reminded -him that it was always prudent to be, as far as possible, prepared -for the worst. Still he assured me that his men were quite sufficient -for our protection. My cook immediately commenced preparing my supper -of boiled fowls and rice, with a few shalots, which made an agreeable -soup. This, although suffering much from fever, I relished much. I then -took another dose of opium, and soon under its powerful influence fell -fast asleep. - -August 22d.--Early in the morning we again prepared for the march. -Several of my men felt the effects of sleeping on the wet ground. I -also for a time felt a cold, shivering sensation, but before mounting -my horse, I took some James’s powder, and, as soon as the sun arose, I -got into a copious perspiration, which considerably relieved me. Our -bearing was now SS.E.; the plain still studded with shea butter-trees -and small shrubs; the road still bad, and worn very deep, like narrow -sheep-tracks. - -After marching for twelve miles very rapidly among small rocks, and -across several deeply sunken streams, we passed a great number of shea -butter-trees, which had been lately scorched to destroy the fruit. Here -we found several excellent springs, impregnated with iron, strongly -carbonized, of which I took a copious draught, which proved very -refreshing to me. The road now began to improve, the surface changing -into clay and sand of a drab colour. The stream, for the distance -of two miles, ran along the path, which formed a channel. This gave -my poor fellows an opportunity of cooling their feet, now much cut -and bruised from the bad roads. I halted here for nearly an hour to -give them an opportunity of refreshing themselves, and filling their -calabashes with this water, which was much superior to that which we -were carrying. During the whole of this time, many of my men remained -standing in the water. - -At twenty miles we arrived at the town of Gijah, which is a fine open -town of considerable size. The caboceer, though represented to be a -very good and generous character, was extremely poor, consequently, -after calling upon him, and the usual forms of reception had been -observed, we accepted the kind invitation of a wealthy merchant named -Atihoh, who entertained us in a most courteous manner, and in less than -an hour supplied us with abundance of provisions ready cooked, with a -calabash filled with the finest gwabas I ever saw, and plenty of very -good peto. During the evening the caboceer, Agballah, and his head men, -sent me ten large calabashes filled with provision. He did not visit me -till I sent for him, assigning as a reason that he was ashamed of his -poverty. - -The poor old man seemed much pleased when I assured him that I was as -glad to see him, as if he had been the richest caboceer in the Dahoman -kingdom. He replied, “White man must be good man, for black man don’t -want to see poor caboceer.” I presented him with a piece of cloth and -some little articles of hardware, which appeared to give him great -satisfaction. I also gave each of his head men some trifling presents. - -They were conscious of their master’s poverty, but seemed anxious to -assist him as much as possible, for they sent me, in the caboceer’s -name, twenty-three very large calabashes, filled with provision; -so that with several smaller presents from some of the principal -inhabitants, myself and people were amply supplied with every thing -necessary. During the evening we were visited by great numbers of the -inhabitants, who seemed much gratified with an opportunity of seeing a -white man. - -August 23d.--Early in the morning my host paid me the usual morning -visit, bringing me a few choice dishes for my own breakfast, and -also a present of one goat, several fowls, one large African duck, -and a number of rare pigeons with feathered legs and toes, and ten -large dishes of provision for my soldiers. Soon after breakfast we -marched for Doko, accompanied for a short distance by the caboceer and -head-men, attended by about twenty of his soldiers, who kept up an -irregular firing of muskets as far as they accompanied us. - -After leaving the town the distance of three miles, the road again -became very bad, and my little horse lost one of its shoes, and soon -began to show its loss. However, this day’s journey was a very short -one, and we marched at a very rapid rate, which, in short journeys, -we always found less fatiguing than marching at a slow rate, and -remaining long on foot, exposed to the sun. At twelve miles we arrived -at Doko, where we were met by the caboceer and his elder brother, the -caboceer of Whydah, who had remained at Abomey ever since I had left -that capital for the Mahee and Fellattah country. He had been sent this -stage to meet me by order of his Majesty. - -The caboceer of Whydah is called the avoga, or captain, caboceer of -white men, which accounts for his being sent instead of Mayho, to meet -me. He being an excellent fellow, I felt much gratification in thus -unexpectedly meeting him. Awassoo, the caboceer of Doko, having already -been acquainted with my intended visit, had prepared dinner for myself -and party, which consisted of twenty-two large dishes of provision. -The avoga had also brought with him plenty of liquors of different -descriptions, which were very freely distributed among the people. I -was now considerable recovered from the effects of my fever, so that -I could take part in their merriment and jest. My guard were now near -home, and, although two days before, the poor fellows were worn out -with fatigue and foot-sore, they were now all life and jollity over -their peto-pots, in which they indulged very freely. Merriment was kept -up till a late hour, and this being a small town, nearly the whole of -the inhabitants came to bid us welcome. - -Aug. 24th.--About sunrise we began to prepare for marching, but as our -journey was a very short one, we remained several hours longer, so that -we might arrive at Abomey about mid-day. It is a custom in Dahomey for -all strangers of note visiting that capital to enter the town when the -sun is at its meridian. This is considered to be a necessary observance -for all distinguished visitors. - -Upon entering the outer gates of Abomey, we were met by Mayho, and -several distinguished members of his Majesty’s household, with an -additional band of music, which played till my arrival at my old -quarters. Upon entering, I must confess I felt great satisfaction, and -a feeling of gratitude to the Great Ruler of all things flashed over -my mind. My first inquiry was, whether my white servant, Maurice, -whom I sent back from Baffo, was still alive, not finding him in the -apartment formerly occupied by him. I was told he was still alive, and -until he heard the sound of the drums announcing my return was walking -about occasionally, and giving directions respecting his cooking; Mayho -having appointed a cook and other attendants to wait on him. But on our -entering the gates he took to his bed, and never again seemed to rally. -I visited him immediately, but found him much reduced. He told me that -every attention had been paid to him, and that the King had appointed -a native doctor to attend him, but he was now suffering from dysentery -and quite exhausted. - -I used the prescribed remedies as far as my means extended, but having -no European provision, I was compelled to do the best I could with -him upon native diet. I had great difficulty in convincing him of my -forgiveness for his conduct, which I have already mentioned. He fancied -that my intention was upon my return to the coast to deliver him up to -the authorities for punishment; and I cannot help thinking that in -spite of my assurance to the contrary, the poor fellow would never -believe that I should not do so. - -Aug. 25th.--The weather now suddenly became alarmingly cold for an -African climate. This was accompanied with heavy rains. During the -night the thermometer fell to 70°, and at noon on the following day -did not rise higher than 77° Fahrenheit. In the night many of my -people caught cold, as well as myself. My poor servant Maurice was -still extremely low, and without any hopes of recovery. I ordered some -warm water and soap to be brought to me, and with my sponge I washed -the whole of his person. At the same time I changed the whole of his -clothes and had them washed. - -The King now sent for me to the palace, where he received me with -every mark of kindness and respect; and after shaking me heartily by -the hand, immediately proposed the health of the Queen of England and -all the royal family. In return, of course, I proposed the health of -himself. My own health was next drank, after which the King gave me a -familiar slap on the back with his open hand, saying, “White man don’t -know proper fear, nor take proper care. In black man’s country,” he -said, “I make him much fear, when he hear I go into far country beyond -Mahee,” meaning the Fellattah country. This was conveyed to me by my -own interpreter. He asked me, what the Queen of England would say if I -had been killed, when in his care or under his protection. He added, -that all white men would say, his own people had killed me, and that -would bring shame upon his head. - -He, however, expressed his great satisfaction at my safe return, and -put a thousand questions to me respecting the Fellattah country, and -whether they mentioned his name there, together with numerous questions -respecting their soldiers. He next spoke upon the Slave Trade, and -asked if I could not make intercession with Her Majesty of England to -send an order to our men-of-war not to take any slave ships till they -had entirely left the coast. I told him that it would be more for his -advantage that the slaves should be captured by English men-of-war, as -a greater number would be required to fill their places. - -His reply was very different to what I had expected. He explained, -that although he supposed many white men believed he sold the greater -part of the slaves sent from that country, he could assure me it -was not the case; but the caboceers, whose soldiers captured them, -were always considered to be the owners of slaves taken in war, when -the enemy were the aggressors, with the exception of those who were -considered unfit for the market. These latter were considered to be -his (the King’s) property, and were sent to the different palaces to -assist in the duties of those establishments; but he admitted that all -prisoners taken by his wives, or female soldiers, were his property, -and that the caboceers always pay a nominal duty upon all slaves taken -in war when sold. From various inquiries I was informed that by far -the greater number of slaves transported from this country are either -the property of those on whose establishments they are bred, or are -purchased from the parents who are free; though at the decease of any -caboceer, the whole of his property is considered as belonging to the -King. The present King, however, seldom exercises his authority on -these occasions. - -They asked the reason why Englishmen had abandoned the Slave-Trade, and -how we obtained people to perform labour. I told him that Englishmen -were now disgusted with the conduct of their forefathers in making a -property of the poor black man, who, because he was uneducated, was -sold like sheep, and sent to a far country, and there compelled to -labour for the remainder of his life in bondage; that Englishmen had -paid an enormous sum of money for the liberation of their slaves, and -were determined that the black man should be considered on an equality -with a white man, and were endeavouring to teach them “sense,” the -term he used for education. He had reminded me, that he had sent some -boys and girls to the Mission-school at Cape Coast to learn _sense_, -like white men, saying that he could (when they returned) communicate -directly with the English governor at Cape Coast without sending his -messages through the Spanish or Portuguese. - -To the next question, I replied, we could get plenty of labourers to -work voluntarily, by paying them sufficient to keep them in food and -clothing; but he declared that unless a slave, black man would never do -any work except on his own plantation. However, he expressed his high -opinion of Englishmen for condescending to put themselves upon the same -level as black men, at the same time remarking that it was no wonder -his father always taught him to respect an Englishman. - -He admitted our principles to be very humane and just, but remarked, -that it would be difficult to abolish slave-holding in his country, -as the children of all slaves were the property of the owner of the -parent, and were treated as one of his own family; and that if a king -were to interfere and abolish this law, it would cause a revolution -in the kingdom, as it would affect all his head men and half heads, -besides rendering those domestic slaves homeless and destitute. - -I told him it was not domestic slavery that we so much objected to, -as the forcing them from their homes and kindred, separating them for -ever from all relatives, and dooming them to incessant labour all -their lives. He asked me whether, when parents voluntarily sold their -children, they would then feel any regret. I replied, if the parents -did not, they were unnatural, and I was sure that the children would; -and to illustrate this, I pointed out a she-goat with two kids, and -asked him if one were taken away, whether the young would not show -symptoms of regret as well as the mother. At this he laughed heartily, -but remarked, that the he-goat, the father of the kids referred to, -would feel quite indifferent. I could not help smiling in return. - -The King touched his forehead with his fingers, saying, Englishman -was wonderful and good man. He then declared that for his own part -he had no wish to maintain the Slave-Trade, neither did he wish to -store riches. All he required was to have sufficient income to pay his -officers and caboceers the usual quantity of cowries to present his -people with, as is usual at the annual custom. This was the full extent -of his ambition. - -I then proposed to him that he should extend agriculture, and establish -a permanent trade, which would be encouraged by all civilized nations; -and observed, that by imposing a slight duty upon all articles of -trade, besides the profits he might obtain, a revenue would be created -for him much superior to what he derived from the slave-dealing. -He replied, that he was very willing to adopt the proposed measure -if England would only make some proposals to him on the subject. I -explained at some length the nature and system of trade, with which -he was quite unacquainted. He remarked that he had been informed, we -had condescended to make treaties with and had sent missionaries to -the Calabar and Bonny rivers, to the petty chiefs of those places, -whose treaties could be of no permanent duration or benefit, as they -possessed no territory, nor had they any fixed laws; besides, they were -always involved in wars with the petty neighbouring states; so that -they were often chiefs to-day, and had their heads cut off the next; -that they could neither ensure any permanent trade with us, nor afford -us any protection in the event of our establishing factories at any of -these places. - -He said he should be ready and very glad to make any reasonable -arrangement with the English Government for the abolition of slavery, -and the establishment of another trade, and added, that though he had -invited us to send missionaries to his country to advise with him, none -but one English fetishman, Mr. Freeman, the Wesleyan missionary (of -whom he spoke highly), had visited him; that all he wanted was to see -plenty of Englishmen in his kingdom, and especially in his capital. He -also offered to build them houses to live in, without any charge, and -give them as much land as they chose to cultivate. - -He expressed his ardent desire to encourage cultivation and a system of -agriculture; and reminded me, that he had long ago issued orders that -all the spare land in and round the town of Griwhee (Whydah) should be -cultivated with a view of lessening the chances of epidemic diseases. -He also expressed his earnest desire to give up Whydah to the English -Government, with full powers to exercise our own laws and customs; and -also declared his readiness to afford us every necessary assistance and -protection, and to give us any quantity of land in the vicinity of that -settlement we might require for agricultural purposes. - -He added, that when we should have obtained possession of Whydah, -we should have power to use our own discretion respecting the -Slave-Trade; and that, as Whydah was the principal residence of the -greatest slave-dealers on this part of the coast, we could with much -more propriety exert our authority to prevent slave traffic than he -himself, particularly as he was under great obligations to a certain -large slave-merchant in that settlement. He said, moreover, that he -had always entertained a hope that some day or other the English -would again establish themselves in Whydah, in consequence of which -he had always kept a temporary governor in the English fort since our -abandonment of the place. - -He declared that he would build us a new fort, either on the old site, -or on any other spot, upon our own plan, and at his own expense. He -had, he said, refused possession of Whydah to the Prince de Joinville, -stating his determination to treat with none but the Queen of England, -who was the greatest of all white sovereigns; that he had for a length -of time been endeavouring to establish, as far as he was able, a code -of laws similar to those of England; for he considered them to be more -just in most cases than the old Dahoman laws, which he confessed to -be very absurd. But, though he thought so, still as many of the old, -absurd customs, which still existed, were of a comparatively harmless -nature, he had hitherto permitted them to remain, as he considered -it dangerous amongst a people so long accustomed to these usages to -revolutionize the whole at once; but he approved of commencing with the -most unreasonable and injurious, and gradually progressing, as in fact -he had done. He also assured me that the good effects of his new laws -were manifest even in the Mahee country, for within the last two years -several petty kingdoms in that and the Annagoo country had voluntarily -been ceded to his government. - -He dictated to me a letter to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, -in which he formally ceded Whydah to the English Government. After -this letter was concluded, he requested me to read it over, lest any -mistake should have occurred; and when he found it satisfactory, he -held the upper end of the pen while I signed his name. We then drank -to the health of her Britannic Majesty, during which a constant fire -of musketry was kept up. I next proposed the King of Dahomey’s health, -which was followed by his drinking my own health. He then ordered an -immense quantity of variegated umbrellas, or rather canopies, to be -brought out for my inspection, and requested me to make a memorandum of -several of their patterns, desiring me to order a number of them to be -sent from England. - -He afterwards showed me about forty tobes of the most costly embroidery -in gold and silver, on a ground of silk velvet of various colours. I -was also shown a piece of patch-work, which I believe I have previously -alluded to, which the King boasted was composed of remnants or -specimens of cloth from every country of the civilized world, as well -as every country in Africa. This piece of patch-work, I was informed, -measures one thousand yards in length, and eight yards in breadth. I -was next desired to take a drawing of the King’s throne or chair of -state. This is a very handsome and ingenious piece of carving, from one -solid piece of wood. It has three seats, one elevated about two feet -above the other, the first and second forming steps to the highest; on -the highest the King never sits except on state occasions. Three skulls -form a foot-stool to the first seat being those of three kings killed -in battle. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued--Visit Coomassie, - another Palace of the King--Great Number of Human Skulls--Skulls of - Kings taken in Battle--Death-drums--Peculiarity of Skulls--Craniums - of the Fellattahs--Skulls of Rival Kings--Criminal Case heard by - the King, and his Award--Death of my Servant Maurice--Regret of - the King--Christian Burial of my Servant--The King’s Kindness to - me--My increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits--Method of - Procuring Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers--My Alarm at - the Dangerous State of my Wound--Make Preparations to amputate - my Limb--My Recovery--My last Conversation with the King--The - King’s Presents to the Queen of England--Present from him to her - Majesty of a Native Girl--Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for - Whydah--Absurd Custom--Canamina--Ahgrimah--My Pigeons from the Kong - Mountains--Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers--Punishment awarded them - for their Roguery on their Arrival. - - -August 26th.--The King again sent for me to visit him at the palace. -He met me in his usual familiar manner, with a hearty shake of the -hand, and a familiar slap on my back with his open hand. A table had -been already spread with the necessary viands. He proposed the Queen -of England’s health; after which he wished me to proceed to a large -palace, about a mile distant, called Coomassie, (after the capital -of Ashantee), there to take the plan and dimensions of a number -of different sized war tents. These displayed ingenuity and taste, -superior to many European nations. The King ordered a number similar -to them to be made in England, and sent to him as soon as possible. -This palace was built and named about the time when the present King -threw off his allegiance to the kingdom of Ashantee, the King of which -formerly boasted that he could hold Dahomey in vassalage. - -After the building of this palace, the King of Dahomey declared himself -capable of holding Ashantee in vassalage. The palace is considered -memorable on this account. In this as well in several other palaces we -visited on this day, we were entertained with every variety of luxuries -used at the King’s table. Upon my return to his Majesty, I found a -number of people busily employed in carrying out of the stores a number -of human skulls, taken in various countries during the wars. Previous -to my journey into the mountains, I had made a request to the King for -leave to inspect a few skulls of natives of the different countries -he had conquered, with the view of comparing them, and also to make -drawings of some of them. - -When between two and three thousand skulls had been carried out and -placed in the parade-ground in front of the palace, I begged the King -not to send for any more. His state chair was placed in the centre of a -circle, formed by arranging the large calabashes or gourds containing -the skulls, in that form. The heads of the kings were placed in large -brass pans, about two feet in diameter. The heads of caboceers and -head-men were in calabashes about the same size as the former; and -to my great astonishment, when curiosity prompted me to make inquiry -respecting any one of these skulls, a long detail was immediately given -me of all the circumstances connected with the parties when alive. - -Though these people do not write, with the exception of the Mohammedan -portion of them, yet they possess very retentive memories. The -death-drums were also brought out on this occasion. They were four in -number, and of different sizes, but much larger than the large drums -in use in the British army. The largest measured nine feet four inches -in length, and the whole were ornamented with human skulls, several of -which I observed were deficient of any suture across the upper part. -This appeared in the proportion of one in twelve, and the skulls -without any longitudinal division were as one in twenty-seven. I found -the skulls of the Mahees generally to recede from the nasal bone or -lower part of the forehead to the top in a greater angle than those of -any other country. - -The Fellattahs are very different in their cranium and general -development from the others, having high, square foreheads, and a quick -and bright eye. They are slighter in person than either the Dahomans -or Mahees; but are generally well formed, sinewy in their limbs, and -capable of enduring great fatigue. The Dahomans are a very fine and -generally tall race of people, both male and female, and the most -honest of any people I ever met with. - -It is worthy of remark, that unlike any other uncivilized people I have -seen, during my stay at Abomey I was never asked by any individual for -an article of even the most trifling value, nor ever lost anything, -except what was stolen by my people from the coast. The Dahoman -laws are certainly severe, but they have the desired effect. In the -collection of skulls, I found a number of them ornamented with brass, -and rivetted together with iron. These were the heads of rival kings, -who were killed by the King’s women, or wives. Amongst these was the -richly ornamented skull of the King of Nahpoo, in the Annagoo country; -his name was Adaffo. His town was taken, and he himself made prisoner, -by the female regiments, commanded by the female commander, Apadomey. -Many of the skulls still retained the hair. It appears that this -part of the human body has always been a favourite ornament on the -palace-walls of Abomey, and even in the walls, entrance of gateways, -and doorways; though the present King has not placed them on the walls -of the new palace called Coomassie. - -A guard is mounted every morning at each of the palaces, and there -is a resident governor. After taking several drawings of the skulls -of several kings killed in war, his Majesty invited me to be present -at the trial of a prisoner who had been brought from a town in the -Mahee country, where he had already been tried, upon an accusation of -adultery with one of the caboceers’ wives, and the sentence of death -had been passed upon him. The man, however, being conscious of his -innocence, appealed to the Court of Abomey, where all the witnesses -were again examined and cross-questioned by the King himself. It was -now distinctly proved that the whole was a false accusation, and the -poor fellow was immediately liberated; but the caboceer, who had been -his accuser, and fourteen of his false witnesses, were seized and -imprisoned for trial on a future day, when doubtless the whole of them -would suffer death. - -The King, with great satisfaction, pointed out to me the beneficial -effects of this new law which he had made, observing that formerly, in -the Mahee country, when a caboceer felt animosity against a person in -his power, he could at any time get up an accusation against him, and -also ensure such evidence as would suit his purpose; but that now the -accused had the power of appealing to the court of Abomey, which had -been the means of effectually checking such practices, as he invariably -put the accusers to death when he found the accused to be innocent. - -As I felt very unwell and feverish, I begged the King to allow me to -return to my quarters, which he readily acceded to, and with his usual -kindness inquired if he could do any thing for me. He walked with me -nearly to my dwelling, during which a continual fire of musketry was -kept up until I entered my own gates. - -I found my servant, Maurice, still weaker, and could not prevail on -him to partake of any nourishment. It was now evident that his earthly -career was near its termination. I asked him if he would like me to -read prayers to him; and intimated to him the near approach of his -dissolution. He consented to my reading prayers; but said, he thought -he should recover. I asked him to give me his father’s address, so that -in the event of his death I might write to him; but, for what reason -I am at a loss to imagine, he refused to give it me, but confessed -that he had been using a false name; and that his father’s name was -not Maurice. He expressed a wish to be carried to Whydah, which was -speedily arranged to be done on the following morning. My fever -increasing, I was now compelled to go to bed. - -Early on the 27th August the carriers reported themselves ready -to proceed with Maurice to Whydah. By this time, my fever had -so increased, that from giddiness I was unable to stand without -assistance; and poor Maurice, being brought in upon the hammock, -proved to be in a dying state; and in a few minutes afterwards expired -without a struggle. A messenger was immediately sent to the King to -inform him of the melancholy fact, who expressed extreme regret at it, -remarking that he feared the occurrence might prevent other Englishmen -from visiting him; but I told him that it was the will of God, and that -no person was to blame; on the contrary, that every thing had been -done which our means afforded. The King then ordered four men to dig -a grave for Maurice, and sent me a flask of rum to give the carriers -and grave-diggers. He also sent two fine cloths to wrap the body in. -He would not allow it to be interred in the sepulchre appointed for -strangers, but it was buried in the court-yard in front of Mayho’s -house, with every mark of respect. - -Great attention was paid by all the spectators during the -burial-service, which I read. I was now left without a white man, and, -for a moment, I felt the loneliness of my situation. This melancholy -feeling was augmented by my severe indisposition. My wounded leg began -to swell and to become discoloured. In the afternoon, the King sent -for me to come and see him, if possible. I felt myself unable to walk, -but was carried in a hammock to the palace. The King seemed in great -trouble at my illness. He told me that he had sent for me to show me -an elephant which had been killed by one of Mayho’s soldiers. He wished -to know if I could preserve a part of it to take with me to Whydah, -for which place I intended to proceed in a few days. I told him that I -was afraid I could not preserve it, so as to be able to carry it with -me; he promised to send me a dish of the flesh for my dinner on the -following day. - -He begged me to join in drinking the health of the Queen of England -and the whole of the Royal Family, in cherry brandy, which he strongly -recommended as beneficial in all cases of fever. This I did: he then -informed me that he had a regiment of female soldiers (his wives), as -well as a regiment of males, on the parade in front of the palace, -waiting to show me how they procured their food when in the bush. - -At that moment, I felt myself a much fitter subject for my mat or -bed; but, as this parade was got up entirely for my gratification, I -determined to remain as long as possible. Accordingly, I accompanied -the King to the parade-ground, where we found the male and female -soldiers formed in line, with front and rear ranks, the latter on the -right. At seventy yards’ distance from their front was a high swish, -or clay wall, parallel with the line of soldiers. Close to this were -fastened, by pegs driven into the ground, a number of sheep, goats, -ducks, guinea-fowls, and the common fowl. The whole were placed in that -position for the purpose of illustrating the method by which the army -procured its food when on march in the bush, which abounds with game. -Each of the soldiers was armed either with a long Danish or English -musket, charged with iron bullets. - -The females commenced firing from the right, advancing one pace to the -front in succession, as they came to the present. I was certainly much -surprised to see the certainty of their deadly aim. Although at seventy -yards distance, very few missed their object; and I did not observe -one who fired wide of a man’s body. The female commanders presented me -with eight large Muscovy ducks and some Guinea-fowls. The male soldiers -fired with even more precision than the females, but I believe that the -whole of them were picked shots; but even if that were the case, the -feat was astonishing, and would have done credit to our best riflemen. -I became so much exhausted and sick at the stomach at last, that I was -obliged to be immediately carried home. My leg, also, was now very much -swollen, and darker in colour, and became very painful, with every -symptom of gangrene or mortification. I confess I felt considerable -alarm at observing these symptoms so rapidly increasing. By this -time, however, I had become inured to hardships and suffering, and -had learned to set little value upon my life, and could very readily -have reconciled myself to share the same grave with poor Maurice. My -principal anxiety was respecting my Journal, a great part of which -was only in notes; consequently the probability was that my kind and -generous patrons would never get possession of it, though this was the -only tribute of gratitude I should ever have it in my power to return -them. I, therefore, made up my Journal and papers in the form of a -parcel, addressed to the Geographical Society, with strict injunctions -to my servants to forward them to Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast. - -My people were very much alarmed at my condition, as were also Mayho -and the King’s messengers, who visited me every two hours. My leg was -still rapidly getting worse, the blackness progressing upwards. I now -began to measure my time, calculating upon my death before morning. I -had seen several amputations performed, and came to the determination -to attempt to amputate my own leg, should it appear absolutely -necessary. In the meantime, I ordered poultices to be prepared from -Indian corn meal, and yeast from the peto. This was immediately -applied. I then had all my amputating instruments placed in readiness, -with the necessary quantity of bandages; and I instructed my people -what they were to do in the event of my fainting while endeavouring -to perform the operation. They did not seem altogether to relish my -instructions, but promised to do their best in obedience to my orders. - -It may be considered that madness alone could have suggested such an -attempt; but it must also be observed, that necessity under certain -circumstances urges the performance of many things bordering on -impossibilities; and in despair we are always ready to grasp even at a -shadow of hope. - -However, thank God! I had not occasion to make the attempt. The -poultices had the desired effect, for in the morning the swelling -was considerably reduced, and the colour turned from black to a pink -or light purple colour, except round the wound, which sloughed, and -the flesh dropped from the bone, causing much pain. Mayho visited me -early, and seemed much pleased when I informed him of my improvement. -My spirits also were much revived, and having some remnants of cotton -print left, I made a frock for Mayho’s youngest boy, with which he -seemed very much pleased. I also made Mayho a waistcoat of the same -material. - -On the 28th I was able to visit the King, to whom I intimated a wish -to depart on the following day for Whydah. He said that he felt very -reluctant to part with me, and wished very much that I would remain in -his capital; at the same time admitting the necessity of my hurrying -home to deliver his message to the Queen of England, and expressing -his great disappointment that Mr. Freeman had not visited him a second -time. He again spoke very highly of him, and expressed a great wish to -have an English missionary and school for mechanics in his capital. He -begged me to point out the necessity of this upon my return to England. - -The King now ordered Mayho to get carriers ready for my departure for -the coast. The bullocks and goats, which had been presented to me, had -been forwarded already, leaving only the bipeds which were to accompany -me when I should leave. His Majesty sent me a present of three pieces -of royal cloth, as well as two pieces for the Queen of England, as -specimens of their manufacture. He also sent a very handsome young girl -as a present for Her Majesty. This child was about seven years old, and -was the daughter of a Mahee king, killed in the late war. He also sent -me eighteen heads of cowries, valued at the same number of dollars, to -defray my expenses to Whydah, and two kegs of rum to treat my people -with, with his best wishes for my welfare, and hoping I should soon -return to visit his kingdom. - -During the whole of my stay in Abomey I had received the most unbounded -kindness from the King, as well as from his principal officers, and, -as I have before stated, I had never been solicited for any thing by -way of dash or present. But I had in my possession a walking-stick, -which contained a spring dagger; this the King seemed to admire much, -I therefore asked him to accept it as a present, for which he heartily -thanked me, saying that he should be very glad to do so when I returned -from the Kong Mountains, remarking that in all probability I should -meet with some very bad people while in the Mahee country. After my -return I offered him the stick, which he again refused, saying that -he would wait till I had safely arrived at Griwhee (Whydah). He would -send a messenger with me thither for the purpose of carrying it back to -Abomey. He also ordered three caboceers to accompany me on my journey -to the coast. - -All was now arranged for my departure on the following morning. I was -still very weak, and quite lame from the large wound in my leg, which -was on the lower part of the calf, four inches in length and about -one and a half in breadth; but my little horse had now recovered from -his long journey, and was in high condition for another. I therefore -resolved to pursue my journey, as I had intended. - -August 29th.--At daybreak a messenger came before I arose from my mat, -to inquire after the state of my health, with orders to ascertain -whether I considered myself quite capable of undertaking my journey, -to which I replied in the affirmative. In a short time afterwards -breakfast was sent as usual, and a number of my carriers arrived. - -It is always considered consistent with court etiquette here, as I have -previously stated, that a stranger visiting his Majesty should arrive -and depart from the capital as nearly as possible when the sun is at -its meridian, consequently various excuses were made to detain me till -that period, when I was escorted out of the town by my excellent old -friend Mayho, and many more of the principal men, with a band of music, -till we crossed the bridge over the moat outside the town walls. Here I -was given up to the charge of the three caboceers before mentioned. - -About two hundred yards from the gates is a fetish-house, in passing -which all persons are compelled to dismount, if carried, and walk past -a certain distance; but the King had very kindly forwarded an order to -the fetish-man, to allow me to ride, on account of my lameness, at -which every man seemed much amazed, saying that no man ever rode over -the same ground before. - -I was very much surprised to see one of my fowls tied by the feet lying -at the door of the fetish-house, which of course led to some inquiries. -I was informed that while the man carrying my fowls was passing the -place, this cock had crowed, and consequently he had become the -property of the head fetishman. The man who carried the basket had not -proceeded farther, but waited till I arrived, to explain the matter. I -made some objections to submit to such a ridiculous custom, whereupon a -messenger was immediately sent to the King, who sent an order to give -up the cock, and also intimated that it was not his wish to compel an -Englishman to observe black man’s laws, remarking that Englishmen can -do no wrong. - -When we arrived at Canamina we overtook two of my carriers, who, though -big, strong-looking men, were quite exhausted, and unable to proceed. -Had I been furnished with female carriers, I should have found no -difficulty. However, I hired an assistant carrier, before I could get -the men to proceed. After a tiresome ride, we arrived at Ahgrimah. When -dismounting I was quite exhausted, and my leg and foot swollen so much, -that my cloth boot had burst, and I suffered very much for upwards -of two hours from pain in my wound. Here I was much amused with the -pigeons which I had brought from the Kong Mountains. Though I had three -different specimens, all rare, they had now become so much reconciled -to each other as to be all of one family, as it were. - -Whenever we halted for the night, and they were released from the gourd -in which they were carried, they never attempted to leave me, but kept -walking to and fro, near the spot where I lay, till they were fed; and -when darkness came on, they huddled themselves close to my person. I -was very much annoyed here on account of several of my carriers not -arriving, particularly as my camp-kettle had not come. I managed, -however, to get a meal from the natives. - -Aug. 30th.--As soon as I awoke I inquired after my luggage, and found -that two of my principal boxes had not arrived. Whereupon I despatched -a trusty messenger, sent by Mayho to accompany me to Whydah to carry -back my coat, which I had promised that excellent old man, being the -only thing I now possessed worth his acceptance. He hastened back -to Abomey, to report the delay to his master, who had furnished the -carriers. Mayho immediately sent fresh men with orders to punish the -villains who had hung back, as, he said, he had himself examined each -of their loads, and found them all considerably under the regulated -weight for carriers. - -At last the men arrived, accompanied by my messenger and fresh -carriers, late in the afternoon. Immediately on their arrival, the -offenders were brought before the caboceers for judgment; and, after a -short palaver, they were sentenced to be beaten with a stick as many -times as I should deem sufficient. Two men were sent into the bush -for some rods, who soon returned with five, about one yard in length -and about the thickness of a man’s middle finger. The offenders were -then ordered to kneel down before me to receive their punishment; -but although they had been the cause of much uneasiness to me, I -could not consent to such a severe mode of punishment, particularly -as all my Dahoman people had hitherto conducted themselves well; I -therefore ordered them both to be released, for they had already been -pinioned. The poor fellows were very grateful for this act of kindness: -the caboceers also were much gratified, and my day’s detention was -beneficial in resting my lame leg. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of my - Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by Don Francisco - de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting Interview with M. de - Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the - Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival at Cape Coast--Kindness - of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my Fever--Kindness of the - Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of Africans--Hints with - regard to Educating them--Observations on the Manners and Customs of - the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries--Enlightened Conduct of - the King of Dahomey--The Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The - Mahees--The Kong Mountains--Sail for England. - - -Aug. 31st.--We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed -through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some -refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived -at Whyboe, where we halted for the night. - -Sept. 1st.--In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen -across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its -thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Here the whole of my -party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove -the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had -placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was -fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed -it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat -ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther, -a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me -that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me -some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut -off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I -found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported -sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey. - -Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when, -at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven -my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head -was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed -no farther, they thought it best to kill it, and dispose of the meat -in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal -had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the -satisfaction of ocular demonstration. - -Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return -to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very -cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so -kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering -the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man -was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused -to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated -me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more -gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the -King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to -assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill -of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King; -but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though -they must have cost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to -let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in -his extensive stores was at my service. - -Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay, -and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends -anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back. Mr. R. Hanson, agent -for Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my -journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered -me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my -return to Whydah. I also received great kindness from Mr. James Hanson, -of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced -every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans, -French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during -my residence in Whydah. - -My state of health was but little better for some time, though the -wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my -return to Whydah, the _Jane_ of London, Captain Lee, Commander, arrived -in the roadstead, to take in goods for Mr. Hutton. The captain had -suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him I feel -indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of animals, a -free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail on the 20th -of September. - -The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to -bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He -begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from -his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at -my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him -that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my -bill, with which he declined to furnish me. - -At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long -good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help -feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with -traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for -he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man -on the coast of Africa, which character I am also bound to give him so -far as I am concerned. - -Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board the _Jane_; -Mr. R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by furnishing -carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is distant two -miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy rains. -The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the sea, and -consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to go into -the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey mother, -of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high and the -surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in managing -their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to stern, -filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it is -formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept end -on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from the -cotton-tree. - -The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe, -had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very -likely to remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as -the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the -surf, she called out for her Abomey mother. - -We soon got the water baled out and reached the _Jane_ without another -washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but the greater -part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently I remained on -deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few articles which -undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that I was not a -loser to a greater extent. - -The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded -by H.M.S. Brig _Ranger_, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the -following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain -Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from -so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh. -Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head -currents. On the following day the boats of the _Flying Fish_, English -war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of the -day, preparing letters for England, for which the _Jane_ was shortly to -sail. - -On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp -look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first -trip, of which the commander had received private information. This -vessel I afterwards learned was captured by the _Flying Fish_, in spite -of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, of -whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed to -British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war. - -On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised -by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the -town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met -upon landing by the officers of the garrison, and Mr. Hutton, who -had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to -become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire -strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast. -I returned, however, to my old quarters with Mr. Hutton, where every -attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was -on the coast, during the last few weeks of which I suffered much from -fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my -earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle -by the acting governor, Dr. Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon. - -I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt -beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted -powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided -entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and -frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually -increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down -and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon -as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied -with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of -water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every -five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced -copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I -experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness, -probably from excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing -in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found -by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to -strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise -medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering -it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be -beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate. - -I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and -other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and -also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his -amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants -on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost -kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak -unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all -barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry. -I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from -the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation. -It is void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans -educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an -example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of -civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable -obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude; -though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading -the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books -of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not -thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively -little benefit. - -Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with: -first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so -that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn -the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school -the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated -population, and never use the English language except when in school. -They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many -instances a partial education is only the means of enabling them to -become more perfect in villany. - -I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some -healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of -industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial -results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be -selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of -their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the -variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one -branch of education alone. - -At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education, -that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight -knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance -to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any -trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks -to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively -few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many -instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either from the -resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then -consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an -establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their -means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves -involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the -goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is -compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy, -where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany. - -Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations -upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah -countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the -present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important -of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices. -These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned -to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely -abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and -only allows them to sacrifice the lower animals. Next I may mention -his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his -kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases -of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the -condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now -subject to Dahomey. - -The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both -the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in -either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height -of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are -well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of -Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take -much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey, -but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should -suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing -information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all -the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey. - -The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil. Ivory is seldom brought -to the coast, except when smuggled, owing to the heavy duty imposed -upon it. The manufactures are limited, cloth being the only article; -but they excel in that article. The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly -level; the soil rich red loam; and, except in the immediate vicinity -of the capital, tolerably well watered. Gold is as abundant there as -in the Ashantee country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom -inquired after. - -The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended no farther in a northern -direction than the river Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth -degrees of north latitude. In marching in a north-easterly direction -from Abomey, the first of the Kong Mountains is situated in latitude -8° 20ʹ north, and extends in the same direction as far as 9° 30ʹ, -although mountains of less magnitude are met with of the table form, at -intervals, as far as 13° 6ʹ north. - -The Mahee people are lighter in colour than the Dahomans, and are very -active and hardy, lively in their disposition, but said to be very -revengeful; although, as I was under the patronage of the King, I did -not observe any thing in their characters which manifested this. The -females are considerably smaller than those of Dahomey, and may be -called rather good-looking, and, like the Dahomans, are very chaste; -though, as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to any extent. -They are all Pagans here, as well as in Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans -are to be found in the army of the latter, they are never interfered -with in their religious opinions. - -Formerly the government of the kingdom of Dahomey was despotic, still -the country has a much more civilized appearance than the petty states -under republican governments, which are generally involved in disputes -and wars. - -The Mahees appear to be a distinct people, independently of the -difference of colour. The general formation of their head differs -considerably from others. It is generally elongated from the ear -backwards, and the philoprogenitive organ is very prominent. The -frontal bone is seldom divided, and in many instances the upper part -of the skull, as I have previously stated, is without any division -whatever; but this is also the case in the Dahomans. - -The chin of the Mahees is generally shorter than that of the Dahomans, -or people near the coast; their lips are not so thick; their teeth -are very good, and they take great pains in cleaning them, which is -generally the case on the whole of the west coast, where it is a -universal custom, when not otherwise employed, to brush the teeth with -the end of what they term a chew-stick, generally a piece of the branch -of the gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-lead pencil. -They consider that chewing this kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably, -from the acid which it contains, it is superior to any other sort of -tooth-brush. - -On many parts of the west coast they sharpen the two front teeth in -the upper jaw by filing, or grinding off the angles, so as to bring -them to a narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skulls I found lighter -and thinner than the Annagoos, or Dahomans, or those on the coast, -many of the latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder part -of the skull, and of a spongy or porous nature. The nose of the Mahees -does not partake in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly -resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their manufactures, which -are composed of cloth, and knitted night-caps, made exactly on the -same principle as in England. They are also clever in the manufacture -of iron, and are well acquainted with native dyes. - -The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are very temperate. They are -excellent cooks. Their dishes are generally soups, containing various -vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an oblong form, called -occro. This is considered very strengthening. I believe it might be -cultivated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very much resembling -the stramonium. Their fermented drink is peto, a native beer, which -I have already described. They attain a greater age than in flat, -low countries; and are very industrious in comparison with many -neighbouring countries. The King of Dahomey enforces cultivation over -all his dominions. - -The general composition of the Kong Mountains, occupied by the Mahees, -is granite, limestone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains or valleys -I found, protruding above the surface, large masses of fused iron mixed -with round pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which were nearly -as heavy as the pure ore. The outside of these masses had a glazed -appearance. From the north to the south side this chain of mountains -does not exceed forty-five or fifty miles. The principal animals -occupying the Kong Mountains I have already noticed. - -The Fellattahs are a different race to either the Dahomans or Mahees. -They are a more warlike people than the Mahees; are light and active -in their movements, very courageous, but also revengeful and stubborn, -though I have been informed, that in a body they cannot fight a -losing battle. They are much intermixed with other tribes, and hold -great sway, occupying a very extensive territory, supposed to extend -from eight degrees west longitude to Bornou, and also a considerable -distance north and south. The real Fellattahs are much darker than the -Mahees, with high square frontal bone and well-proportioned head, in -general; hair, thick and woolly. They are more civilized and ingenious -than the Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers. - -Even the system of drainage has found its way to this remote region, -many of their indigo fields being well drained, as also those in the -Mahee country. Their trade is not very extensive, being chiefly -confined to their own locality, and is generally a system of barter, -though cowries and cloth are the general currency of the country. Their -mode of living is much the same as in the Mahee country but they use -less hogs’ flesh, and they eat both horses and dogs, and also several -species of serpents, frogs, and guanos. - -I sailed from Cape Coast for England in February, 1846. Previous to my -going on board, I had many little presents sent me, both in the shape -of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the merchants and natives in their -employment, as well as from the resident Missionaries. I also received -some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries who visited Cape -Coast on their way to the Calabar, or Bonny River, in one of Mr. -Jamieson’s ships; I believe one of them was Mr. Waddel. Our vessel was -the _Albion_ of Guernsey, a small schooner of only one hundred and -fifty tons; in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was very -uncomfortable. - -After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra, and took on board some -ivory and gold, remaining at the above place one day and a night. -During this time I went on shore to visit some of my old friends, -amongst whom was Mr. Bannerman, whose kindness and hospitality are well -known, both to the naval and military officers who have ever visited -that settlement. I was also kindly received by the resident Wesleyan -Missionary. - -Here I found an American Missionary and his wife, accompanied by the -widow of a brother Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she was -apparently fast approaching to her long home. They were all in delicate -health, and were passing down the coast for a change of air, but were -obliged to leave the vessel. - -During my stay I received extreme kindness and attention at the -mission-house. I also called at the former residence of Mr. Hanson, -a merchant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain of Cape Coast, -and Mr. R. Hanson from Whydah, were both there. From these gentlemen I -experienced great kindness, both now as well as on former occasions. -Here I again found my old charger, who had carried me during my -long journey in the interior. He was now the property of the Rev. -William Hanson, and had only arrived a few days before from Whydah. -It had probably been taken little care of, for the poor animal was -much reduced in flesh. It recognised my voice, and when I spoke, it -immediately neighed and pawed the ground, anxious to come to me. - -Mr. Hanson, its owner, asked me to put a pair of fore-shoes on it, -remarking that it was the last act of kindness I should ever have an -opportunity of bestowing upon the noble little animal. This I readily -assented to: after which I proceeded on board, when we immediately set -sail for England; where, after a tedious and uncomfortable passage of -three months, we arrived. I had much improved in health during the -passage, though my accommodation was bad, for I was obliged to sleep -on deck during six weeks of the time, owing to the suffocating smell -from the heated corn, amongst which some of the palm-oil puncheons had -burst. - - - RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER, - - AS OBSERVED IN DAHOMEY FROM JUNE 11 TO JULY 7, 1845. - - +-------------------+-------------------------------------------+ - | Rise and Fall | | - | during Day, from | | - | 6 A.M. to 6 P.M. | REMARKS. | - +-------+-----+-----+ | - | Date. |Rise.|Fall.| | - +-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+ - | |Deg. |Deg. | | - |June 11| 80 | 76 |In house, against clay wall. | - | ” 12| 82 | 78 |In house. | - | ” 13| 81 | 75 |Ditto. | - | ” 14| 82 | 76 |Ditto. | - | ” 15| 80 | 77 |Ditto. | - | ” 16| 81 | 76 |Ditto. | - | ” 17| 80 | 74 |{Heavy tornado at 2 P.M.; fall suddenly | - | | | |{ to 74°. | - | ” 18| 82 | 76 | | - | ” 19| 80 | 74 | | - | ” 20| 81 | 74 | | - | ” 21| 78 | 74 |{Unusually cold; natives feverish; | - | | | |{ cold and rainy season. | - | ” 22| 78 | 74 |Cloudy. | - | ” 23| 78 | 76 |Cloudy. | - | ” 24| 82 | 75 |Morning cloudy. | - | ” 25| 77 | 75 |Cold and showery all day; tornado. | - | ” 26| 81 | 74 |Cloudy in the evening; very dark night. | - | ” 27| 82 | 73 |Wind; storm. | - | ” 28| 82 | 73 |Heavy shower. | - | ” 29| 79 | 74 | | - | ” 30| 82 | 73 |Cold rainy night; wind west. | - | July 1| 82 | 74 |Very windy, and unusually steady. | - | ” 2| 80 | 73 |Slight showers; wind west. | - | ” 3| 77 | 73 |Showers in the morning; day cloudy. | - | ” 4| 82 | 73 |Heavy tornado; lightning and thunder heavy.| - | | | |{This day temperature changeable | - | ” 5| 81 | 70 |{ during a tornado, the heaviest seen; | - | | | |{ thermometer fell to 70°. | - | ” 6| 80 | 73 |Unusually cold in the morning. | - | ” 7| 82 | | | - +-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+ - - - THE END. - - - - - LONDON: - - R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Errors in punctuation have been fixed. - -Page 86: “the the corn” changed to “the corn” - -Page 121: “chiefly dependnet” changed to “chiefly dependent” - -Page 128: “into the midde” changed to “into the middle” - -Page 137: “aview of” changed to “a view of” - -Page 227: “must have have been” changed to “must have been” - -Page 268: “Wesleyan misonary” changed to “Wesleyan missionary” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AFRICA, VOL. -II (OF 2) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/69179-0.zip b/old/69179-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 57bf7a8..0000000 --- a/old/69179-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/69179-h.zip b/old/69179-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ef7f01f..0000000 --- a/old/69179-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/69179-h/69179-h.htm b/old/69179-h/69179-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 88e6e5d..0000000 --- a/old/69179-h/69179-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7705 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8" /> - <title> - Travels in Western Africa, vol. 2, by John Duncan—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover" /> - <style> /* <![CDATA[ */ - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -hr.r5 {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 47.5%; margin-right: 47.5%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} -table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; width: 80%;} -table.autotable td, -table.autotable th { padding: 4px; } -.x-ebookmaker table {width: 95%;} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} -.page {width: 3em; vertical-align: top;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; - text-indent: 0; -} - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 5%; -} - -.bb {border-bottom: 2px solid;} - -.bl {border-left: 2px solid;} - -.bt {border-top: 2px solid;} - -.br {border-right: 2px solid;} - -.bbox {border: 2px solid;} - -.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} -img.w75 {width: 75%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w75 {width: 95%;} -.w50 {width: 50%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w50 {width: 75%;} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: 1px dashed; margin-top: 1em;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-indent: 0em;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -.xbig {font-size: 2em;} -.big {font-size: 1.2em;} -.small {font-size: 0.8em;} - -abbr[title] { - text-decoration: none; -} - -.ml {margin-left: 2em;} - - /* ]]> */ </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in Western Africa, vol. II (of 2), by John Duncan</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Travels in Western Africa, vol. II (of 2)</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: John Duncan</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: October 18, 2022 [eBook #69179]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AFRICA, VOL. II (OF 2) ***</div> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w75" alt="MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS -CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD." /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">From a Sketch by Duncan. <span class="ml">Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.</span><br />MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS -CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</span></p> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h1>TRAVELS<br /><br />IN WESTERN AFRICA,</h1> - -<p class="center xbig">1845 & 1846,</p> - -<p class="small center">COMPRISING</p> - -<p class="center">A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH, THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY, TO ADOFOODIA, IN THE INTERIOR.</p> -<p class="center p2"> -<span class="big">BY JOHN DUNCAN,</span><br /> -LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE -LATE NIGER EXPEDITION.<br /> -</p> -<p class="center p2"> -IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /> -<span class="big">VOL. II.</span><br /> -</p> -<p class="center p2"> -<span class="big">LONDON:</span><br /> -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,<br /> -Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.<br /> -1847.<br /> -</p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center p4"> -LONDON:<br /> -R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.<br /> -</p></div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS_OF_VOL_II">CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</h2> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><th></th><th class="tdr"><span class="allsmcap">PAGE</span></th></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Zafidah Mountains—Zoogah—Reception by the Caboceer—Bamay—Its - Market—Curiosity of the People—Population—The - Davity Mountains—Daragow—Qualifications for a Caboceer—The - River Zoa, or Lagos—Its wooded Banks—Ferry—Superstition—Water-lilies—The - Plain set on fire to destroy the - Shea-butter Tree, &c.—Valley of Dimodicea-takoo—Kootokpway—Gbowelley - Mountain—Romantic Scenery—Hospitable - Reception—The Mahees—Their total Defeat by the Dahomans—Ascent - of the Mountain—Ruins of a Town—Skeletons of - the Slain—Soil—Twisted Rock—Mineral Springs—Agbowa—Herds - of Cattle—Paweea, its healthy Situation—Palaver with - the Caboceer—Description of him—His Hospitality—The - Markets—Guinea Corn—Natives good Farmers—Cloth Manufacture—Native - Loom—Hardware—Hyæna Trap—Admiration - of my Sword—Review of native Soldiers—Population. -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant—Presents—Names of - Caboceer, &c.—Granite Mountains—Tanks—The Adita—Soil—The - Tawee—Mountains—Grain and Vegetables—The Zoglogbo - Mountain—Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo—Ascent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</span> - of the Mountain—Cotton-trees—Mountain-pass—Singular - Situation of the Town—Houses—Dahoman Political Agent—Probable - Origin of the Mountain—Kpaloko Mountain—Ignorance, - assumed or real, of the neighbouring Country by the - Natives—The Dabadab Mountains—Superstition—Singular - Method of conveying Cattle—Cruelty to the Brute Creation—Difficult - Descent—Agriculture and Manufactures—Height of - the Mountains—Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo—Names of - the Caboceer, &c.—Reception at Baffo—Costume of Caboceer - and his Wife—His Principal Wives—Beautiful Birds—Gigantic - Trees—Parasitical Plants—Singular Tree—Soil—Grain, Fruits, - &c.—Cattle—Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer—Goods - exposed for Sale—Rival Caboceers—Game—Pigeon-trap—Trial - of Skill—Dog poisoned—Increasing Illness of my Servant—The - Caboceer’s principal Cook -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The River Loto—Jokao Mountain—Jetta—Reception by the - Caboceer—Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko—Its curious - Formation—Its former Importance on account of its Manufactures—Desolating - Effects of War—Attachment of the Natives - to particular Spots—Natural Tanks in the Mountains—Mount - Koliko—Precipitous Granite Rock—Similarity to Scottish - Scenery—The Nanamie—Laow, and the Laow Mountain—Kossieklanan - Cascade—Tamargee Mountains—Mineral Spring—Mount - Koglo—Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer—Whagba—Caboceer’s - Hospitality—the Town—Inhabitants—Kindness - of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo—War-Dance—Drunkenness—Names - of the Caboceer, &c.—Game—Curious Pigeons—An - Incident—Absurd Notion—Departure from Whagba—Names - of the Caboceer, &c.—Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow - and Massey—Beautiful Valley—Impregnable Position—The - Caboceer of Kpaloko—Grandeur of the Scene—Jeka Houssoo—The - Dabadab Mountains—Difficulty in obtaining Information—Resolve - to leave my Attendants—My Scheme—Departure—Zafoora—Soil, - Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.—Shea-butter used - for Lamps -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_55">55</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My - Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver - with the King—Scene of the Defeat of the - Dahomans—Inhospitality—The Shea-butter, and other Trees—The - Gwbasso—Prevalent Diseases—Soil—The Velvet - Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold Reception - by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard - Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King - Chosee and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment - of Danger—Result of a Firm Demeanour—Respect - shown by the King and Natives—Enter Koma with a Band of - Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the King’s Wives—Palaver - with the King—The Niger known here as the Joleeba—Presents - to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges for - Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle - of the Caboceer—Slave Market—Trade Monopolized by the - Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the - Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous - Confusion—Inhospitality -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Inhospitality—Good Fortune—Soil—Mahomedan Town—Hymn - of Welcome—The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.—Manufactures, - &c.—The Crown-bird domesticated—Quampanissa—Market - Day—Curiosity of the Natives—A Cranery—Market - Constables, their Functions—Singular Musical Instrument—A - Palaver with the Caboceer—Bidassoa—Mishap—A Bivouac—Reception - by the Caboceer—Palm Wine freely taken by - Mahomedans—Superstition of the Natives—Grain Stores—Manufactures—Buffaloes—Fruit - Trees—Horses, their market - price here—Cattle—Elephants—Manufactures—Game—Method - of Drying Venison—Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.—Kosow—Terror - of the Native Females—Appearance of the Caboceer—Palaver—Presents - to the Caboceer—His Harem—Swim - across the River Ofo—Its Width, &c.—The Town of Kasso-Kano—Slave-Market—The - Women—Neighbouring Hills—Iron—Antimony—Native - System of smelting Ore—Native - Furnace and Bellows—Roguery—Bivouac -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_108">108</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Peculiar Breed of Dogs—The Town of Zabakano—Market Day—Native - Manufactures—Domestic Slaves—Palm Oil—Joleeba, - or Niger—Horses make part of the Family—Pelican Nest—Pigeons—Kindness - of the Gadadoo—Pigeon Shooting—Palaver - with the Gadadoo—Population—Mounted Soldiers—Character - of the Scenery—Grooba—Manufactures—The - Town of Sagbo—Drilling System general here—Two sorts - of Rice—Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp—Palaver—Dromedary - and Elephant—Prevalent Diseases—The - Town of Jakee—Reception—Ancient Custom—Breakfast of - the Natives—Manufactures—Terror of the Natives—Chalybeate - Springs—The River Jenoo—The Land Tortoise—Interesting - Panorama—The Town of Kallakandi—Reception by - the Sheik—Palaver—Band of Musicians—Peculiar Instruments—Manufactures, - &c.—Slave Market—Horses—Laws—Cruel - Punishment—Population—Attack on a Boa-Constrictor—Manufactures—Deer—Method - of Preserving Meat and Fish—Trap - for Wild Animals—Town of Ongo—Reception by the - Caboceer—Interesting Aspect of the Country -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Ongo—Weariness of my Attendants—Bivouac—Alarm of my - Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts—Terror of the - Natives—Their Kindness—Establishment for Mahomedan - Converts—Singular Custom—My Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea, - who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park—Loss - of my Sand-glass—Its Construction—Adofoodia—The - Market-Place—Reception by the King—Interview with Terrasso-weea—Ceremony - of welcoming me—His Stores—Discovery - of an Old Acquaintance—Narrative of his Adventures—Terrasso-weea’s - House—His Wives—Inquire of him Particulars - of the Fate of Mungo Park—His Relation of the Death - of that Intrepid Traveller—Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of - it—Park’s Property seized by the King—His Despotic Character—Flight - of Terrasso-weea—My Palaver with the King—Hospitality - of the Merchant—Information obtained respecting - Timbuctoo—Market of Adofoodia -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_163">163</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Return to Baffo—Anxiety of my Caboceer—Rejoicings for my - Return—Our March—Fine Plain—Plants—Neutral Ground—Natives - of the Dassa Mountains—Agriculture—The Annagoos, - dangerous Enemies—Poisoned Arrows—Poisonous Plants—Alarm - of my Attendants on my plucking it—Fatal Effects of - this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives—Number of the - Natives Blind, supposed to be the result of it—Unsuccessful - Attack on them by the Dahomans—Spiral Rocks—Hostile - Demeanour of the Natives—They follow us with Menaces—Some - Account of these Mountaineers and of the Dassa Mountains—The - Blue Eagle—Cataracts—Beautiful Plain—One - of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier—Twisted Marble of - Variegated Colours—Path covered with Pepper-trees—Monkeys—Logazohy—Mayho’s - Town—The Caboceer—The Merchants—Their - Names—Carelessness with respect to Fire—Visit of - the Caboceer -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Enter Logazohy in Regimentals—Received by the Caboceer, - attended by his Soldiers—Singular Mode of Dancing—Native - Jester—Description of the Town—Corn Mills—Presents from - Fetish-women—Agriculture—Prevalent Diseases—A disgusting - Case of Leprosy—Quarrel among my Carriers—My - Illness—The Damadomy—Trees, Shrubs—The Agbado—Rapid - Construction of a Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman - Guards—Savalu—Reception by the Caboceer—Picturesque - Situation of the Town—Caboceer’s House—His Wives—His - Jester—My Illness -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu—Curiosity of the natives—State - Constables—Military Dance—Introduction to the Fetish-women—Manufactures—Crane-shooting—Present - by Fetish-women—Hospitality - of the Caboceer—His Name and those of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</span> - his Head Men—Wild Grapes—The Zoka—Shrubs—Swim - across the Zoka—Mode of Transporting my Luggage—Difficulty - in getting my Horse across—Fearlessness of the - Dahoman Female Carriers—Bad Roads—Jallakoo—Reception - by the Caboceer—My Illness—Appear in Regimentals before - the Caboceer—Concern evinced on account of my Illness—Description - of the Town—Agriculture—Caboceer’s Name and - those of his Head Men—Presents to the Caboceer -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - My continued Illness—The Koffo—The Langhbo—Bivouac—Keep - Sentinel—Shea-butter Trees—Springs impregnated with Iron—Gijah—Poverty - of the Caboceer—Hospitality of Atihoh, - the Merchant—Doko—Met by the Avoga of Whydah—Etiquette - with regard to the Time of entering a Town—Enter - Abomey—My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed—Sudden - Change in the Temperature—Visit to the King—His Gratification - at my safe Return—My Conversation with his - Majesty—His Views with regard to the Slave Trade—His - Desire to cede Whydah to the English Government—Dictates - a Letter to me to that effect—His costly Tobes—Singular - Piece of Patch-Work -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued—Visit Coomassie, - another Palace of the King—Great Number of Human - Skulls—Skulls of Kings taken in Battle—Death-drums—Peculiarity - of Skulls—Craniums of the Fellattahs—Skulls of - Rival Kings—Criminal Case heard by the King, and his - Award—Death of my Servant Maurice—Regret of the King—Christian - Burial of my Servant—The King’s Kindness to me—My - increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits—Method of Procuring - Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers—My Alarm - at the Dangerous State of my Wound—Make Preparations to - amputate my Limb—My Recovery—My Last Conversation - with the King—The King’s Presents to the Queen of England—Present - from him to her Majesty of a Native Girl—Escorted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</span> - out of Abomey, and Departure for Whydah—Absurd Custom—Canamina—Ahgrimah—My - Pigeons from the Kong - Mountains—Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers—Punishment - awarded them for their Roguery on their Arrival -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_273">273</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"> -<a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Akpway—Superstition of the Natives—Singular proceeding of - my Bullock-Drivers—Arrival at Whydah—Kind Reception by - Don Francisco de Suza—Kindness of all the Merchants—Parting - Interview with M. de Suza—Sail for Cape Coast—Terror - of the Mahee Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness - of the Sea—Arrival at Cape Coast—Kindness of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton—<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> - Lilley—Recover from my Fever—Kindness of the Wesleyan - Missionaries—General Character of Africans—Hints with regard - to Educating them—Observations on the Manners and Customs - of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries—Enlightened - Conduct of the King of Dahomey—The Dahomans—Trade of - Dahomey—Paganism—The Mahees—The Kong Mountains—Sail - for England -</td> -<td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_293">293</a></td></tr> -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS_TO_THE_SECOND_VOLUME">ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.</h2> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><td class="tdl"><a href="#img001"><span class="smcap">Mode of Execution at Dahomey</span></a> -</td><td class="tdr"><i><a href="#img001">To face the Title.</a></i></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#img002">The Kong Mountains, in the Neighbourhood of Logazohy</a></span> -</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_219">p. 219</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2">Wood Cuts.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#img003">State Chair of the King of Dahomey</a></span> -</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_272">272</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#img003">The King’s Staff</a></span> -</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_272">272</a></td></tr> -</table><p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center xbig">TRAVELS <br /><span class="small">IN</span><br /> WESTERN AFRICA.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> -<p> - -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>The Zafidah Mountains—Zoogah—Reception by the Caboceer—Bamay—Its -Market—Curiosity of the People—Population—The Davity -Mountains—Daragow—Qualifications for a Caboceer—The River Zoa, -or Lagos—Its wooded Banks—Ferry—Superstition—Water-lilies—The -Plain set on Fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.—Valley -of Dimodicea-takoo—Kootokpway—Gbowelley Mountain—Romantic -Scenery—Hospitable Reception—The Mahees—Their total Defeat by -the Dahomans—Ascent of the Mountain—Ruins of a Town—Skeletons -of the Slain—Soil—Twisted Rock—Mineral Springs—Agbowa—Herds -of Cattle—Paweea, its healthy Situation—Palaver with the -Caboceer—Description of him—His Hospitality—The Markets—Guinea -Corn—Natives good Farmers—Cloth Manufacture—Native -Loom—Hardware—Hyæna Trap—Admiration of my Sword—Review of native -Soldiers—Population.</p> -</div> - - -<p>July 11th.—We marched from Setta at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, the first high -land bearing from the north side of the town <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 25° <abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, and named the -Zafidah mountains,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span> distant about twelve miles. These mountains form -the western extremity of a range, running as far to the eastward as -the eye can reach. The path led directly to these mountains, and the -surrounding country was of a beautiful champaign character, studded at -considerable intervals with trees of various descriptions.</p> - -<p>About half a mile from Setta, and journeying N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, we crossed a fine -brook with a waterfall. The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz, -in immense detached blocks, the brook running eastward. Close to this -ford is a small kroom, called Zoogah; and although we had come so -short a distance the old patriarch or caboceer had provided plenty of -provisions for myself and private servants, with water and peto. The -poor man also presented me with several fowls. He told me that the -people of his small town had made a subscription and purchased these -fowls to offer to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a present, -although they were anxious to show their good feeling towards the -King’s white stranger. He had told them what I had said at Setta to -the old woman (for he was present on that occasion) who presented me -with the two eggs. The kindness shown towards me now formed a perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span> -contrast to that which I had experienced on the coast, where the -character and disposition of the people are vile. I gave the caboceer -some needles and thimbles, with directions to distribute them amongst -his people.</p> - -<p>At four miles from this place we arrived at a small kroom of about -three hundred inhabitants, called Bamay. Here is a good market, which -is held weekly: it happened to be held on this day. The caboceer was -waiting in the market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur. Here -we had plenty of good water and provisions. The caboceer seemed highly -delighted at receiving a visit from a white man, and introduced me -to all his head men and principal wives. The people assembled in the -market-place all came running, pushing each other aside, with eager -curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the market, which is shaded with -large trees, called by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling -cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe; kao (saltpetre -in its original state) which is found in the mountains; different -sorts of grain produced in the country; tobacco, and pipes made at -Badagry, much resembling the head of the German pipe, but of red clay; -shalots and vegetables<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> of various sorts for soups, and also manioc -or cassada-root ready cooked; with yams, plantains, and bananas, -oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo -and pepper; snuff is also sold here. Butcher’s meat is exposed for -sale early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly it is cooked -in the market-place, to prevent putrefaction. Sheep and goats are sold -in the market, but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock in the -market in any part of Africa, except at Tangiers. Fowls and eggs, and -agricultural implements of various descriptions, are also sold in all -the markets of any magnitude in this part of the country. Here the land -is well cultivated, and the crops are very good.</p> - -<p>This kroom contains about six hundred inhabitants, who are evidently of -a different tribe to the people of Whydah. They are much better formed -and more nimble, and apparently more capable of enduring fatigue than -the natives on the coast. After distributing some small presents and -some rum to the caboceer, we resumed our journey.</p> - -<p>At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic) E.S.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> the Davity -mountains are seen. These mountains form a range extending from east -to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span> west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are separated by a -narrow plain from another range of mountains, distant about two miles. -Both ranges are of conical or hogback character. At the distance of -four miles and a half we reached Daragow, a small kroom of about three -hundred inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the caboceer, whose name -was Badykpwa, a fine stout old man of about fifty-five years of age.</p> - -<p>The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in nearly all the kingdoms -and petty states of Western and Central Africa, are, that he should -be tall and stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many African -kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by the length and thickness of the -beard.</p> - -<p>At six miles we reached the banks of the river Zoa, here forty yards -wide and seven feet deep. It is very muddy, for it is now the rainy -season. Large blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed of the -river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The current is about two miles -per hour, running (magnetic) E.S.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> The banks are thirty feet deep, -and wooded on each bank with trees of gigantic size, whose enormous -roots extend in all directions. The greater number of these roots run -along the surface, in most cases crossing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> and re-crossing each other, -presenting the appearance of network. Their trunks are buttressed -all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At about eight feet from -the ground the buttresses, which so far are straight, break off in -different directions, crossing each other around the trunk, like a -number of large serpents wattled across each other. I did not observe -any trees of the same description at a distance from the rivers.</p> - -<p>At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is left here for the use -of passengers. By order of the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying -goods are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here we were detained -for some time, the canoe not being capable of conveying more than ten -persons without luggage at a time. I remained till all the party had -been ferried over, except the caboceer, or captain, and the other -principal officers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain begged me -to sit in the bottom of the canoe with my face towards the stern, so -that in crossing I was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated with him -on the absurdity of doing so, he declared it to be “bad fetish” for any -great man in crossing water to look in the direction he is proceeding, -assuring me also that he was answerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> for my safety, and that should -anything of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should be severely -punished, or if any thing should occur to my personal injury he should -lose his head. When I found the poor fellow, who was under these -restrictions, felt distressed at the observations I had made, I readily -assented to all his instructions and directions. My little horse swam -across, tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in getting it -across.</p> - -<p>This river is the same as the river Lagos at Badagry on the coast, -although here called the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over Africa -where I have yet been. I am also informed that this same river has two -other distinct names, between this place and the place where it takes -the name of Lagos, which fully accounts for many supposed errors of our -travellers, as well as many errors in fact.</p> - -<p>Our party having now all safely crossed the river, we immediately -resumed our journey amongst thickets of underwood scarcely passable, -the bushes having closed in and across the path, and joined over the -narrow sheep-track for such it really was. After travelling half a -mile, the path became more open, and we suddenly came upon a small lake -or pond, apparently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily -sprinkled over its surface. The sight of these beautiful flowers, -coming upon us so unexpectedly, created a very pleasing sensation, for -they were exactly the same as the water-lily of England.</p> - -<p>The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less -irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been -recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was -informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the -extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of -destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable, -and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree, -which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed -its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no -cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and -a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running -to the eastward.</p> - -<p>At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my -guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of -various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a -partridge’s wing, were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now -begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed -quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had -crossed the Zoa.</p> - -<p>At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running -eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a -stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed -to NN.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the -western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot, -and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred -inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division -between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains, -at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high -mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed -to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we -had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the -character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a -number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of -character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned -of our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span> approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path -awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our -refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part, -I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here -the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the -mountains.</p> - -<p>The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches -in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent -manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the -King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey -during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter -place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my -treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched -orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s -orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized -respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had -given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my -treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah, -and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender -to the Dahomans.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy -part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance -against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having -possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures -and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances. -Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their -besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and -were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains -at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest -season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these -mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they -can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with -the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to -surrender to their enemies, at discretion.</p> - -<p>These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other -produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though -in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use -the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of -firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span> old caboceer and my -guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley -and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers -were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred -individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have -perished.</p> - -<p>After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and -my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the -mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I -should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not -wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer -took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up; -and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip. -In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, -with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous -amongst the branches.</p> - -<p>After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of -the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town. -This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of -war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> -skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls -of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been -used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater -part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of -the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and -described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description. -The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with -those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with -bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and -the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its -effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even -while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the -remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very -probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this -mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or -patakoo, the name given to it by the natives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span></p> - -<p>This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep, -composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from -another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle -of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are -very steep,—in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the -plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains.</p> - -<p>After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party -refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of -intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor -man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay -his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some -small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our -journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents. -Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak, -which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived -after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed -walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled -him to ride.</p> - -<p>The path was now very deeply worn with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> heavy rains, a stream -pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving -only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant. -The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in -the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>). The plain at -intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some -round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have -observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable -soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and -resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron -rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its -own level while in a state of fusion.</p> - -<p>The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I -observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica -in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition -of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble, -of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the -caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some -considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie -and peto. We again stopped for some time,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> and made inquiry respecting -the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any -information respecting any other locality than their own immediate -vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a -small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed -our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully -impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is -beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities, -and numerous small brooks.</p> - -<p>The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is -much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this -locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular -rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in -one year.</p> - -<p>At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we -changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with -water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty -miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east. -At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance -of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in -Africa where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some -Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height, -the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle, -sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as -well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove -abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and -villages.</p> - -<p>At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large -town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with -several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the -caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and -accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with -the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the -surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer -here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding -mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly -seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast.</p> - -<p>The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us -into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under -several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we -seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the -King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash -of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was -passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony -was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far -distant.</p> - -<p>The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently -I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a -fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and -manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples, -narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head -the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however, -possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and -appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us. -Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for -myself and people.</p> - -<p>After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the -principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon -this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> distributed -amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so -fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting -England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative, -and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his -own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of -course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality.</p> - -<p>In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the -coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor, -and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing -about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which -was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired.</p> - -<p>July 12th.—Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer -with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments, -desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the -messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat -train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small -calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and -a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled -forms a gelatinous substance, and is very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> strengthening. This dish -is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted -to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left -yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present -of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was -an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when -I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I -presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned -home rejoicing.</p> - -<p>After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk round his town with -him—seeming anxious to gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of -the King’s stranger. This was just what I wished, as I was anxious to -acquire as much information as possible during the short time I had to -spare. Accordingly we visited the markets, which were well supplied -with provisions and articles of manufacture. I noticed amongst other -things some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native cloth, of various -quality and colours, was exposed for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very -abundant in the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets in all the -towns in the vicinity. It is used as medicine, and, as in England, is -much in requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> species are -sold in the market, also nuts of various sorts, as well as different -kinds of beans and peas. Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood, -and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester bushel. The corn is -now nearly ripe, and some of the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet -high, so that the town is entirely concealed until the fence, which -invariably encloses the African towns on the plain, is passed. The -prickly bush at Abomey is planted like a double hedge round the town, -and is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it would seem a -matter of impossibility ever to break through it. The female soldiers -of Dahomey, however, as I have already mentioned, are capable of taking -one of these towns with apparently little trouble.</p> - -<p>The owners of the numerous herds of cattle keep them in folds or pens -in the town, and the dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent -farmers, even in this remote part, where they never can have had -intercourse with any civilized being. They also manufacture very -good cloth, although their method is certainly tedious, the thread -being spun by the distaff, and their loom being of a very simple -construction, though upon the same principle as our linen looms in -England. Their web is necessarily narrow, not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> exceeding six inches. As -they have not yet found out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand -the reel through the shade from one side to the other in putting in the -weft; and instead of treadles to set the foot upon, they use two loops, -which are suspended from the treadles, into which they put their big -toes, which act upon the same principle as the treadle. The warp is not -rolled round a beam, as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length, -and the farther end is made fast to a large stone or heavy substance, -which is gradually drawn towards the weaver as he progresses in his -work.</p> - -<p>Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and is worked with -considerable skill. Their implements for agricultural purposes are much -superior to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet potatoes, yams, -and manioc or cassada, are cultivated here with great success.</p> - -<p>The different articles sold in the market are nearly the same as I have -already mentioned at Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a patakoo or -large hyæna trap, from the simplicity of its construction. It is about -twenty feet long and two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong. -The trap is constructed upon the same principle as some of those used -in England for catching various sorts of vermin without destroying or -injuring<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage in the trap, at -the farthest extremity from the entrance, and the hyæna, or panther, -(whichever may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of the -kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on a board with a string -attached, the other end of which is connected with a trigger which -suspends a sliding door. Upon the trigger being pulled, the sliding -door immediately drops and incloses the animal. It is then sometimes -maimed or baited with dogs.</p> - -<p>Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned to our quarters, when it -was soon afterwards brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three -goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which were served up in -excellent style, with plenty of dabadab and kankie, and round balls -of cakes made with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together with -abundance of peto.</p> - -<p>After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to see me in uniform, -and wished also that the ceremony of receiving me on entering his town -should be repeated as the King’s stranger, similar to my reception on -the previous evening. This requisition was not very agreeable to me, as -my white man Maurice was still very ill and in low spirits. However, I -prepared myself soon after dinner, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> mounted my little charger. The -caboceer examined my horse and accoutrements very minutely, as also -my appointments. My sword, large knife, as they called it, excited -much admiration from its brightness, and above all, for its pliability -in bending and again resuming its original form. Their short swords -are made of iron, but have no spring in them. He next examined my -double-barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the percussion -caps, believing that the cap alone was also the charge, no doubt from -its loud report. After explaining it to him, he seemed much gratified.</p> - -<p>We then proceeded out of the town, one half of my guard in front, -and the other in my rear, with the caboceer’s soldiers in rear of -the whole, one half of whom were armed with bows and arrows. After -proceeding about half a mile from the town into an open piece of ground -not planted with corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham fight, -which, although it did not display any great complication of manœuvres, -was interesting from the quickness of their motions, and significant -gestures.</p> - -<p>After the review was over, we returned to the market-place, when all my -soldiers commenced dancing. This was kept up alternately by my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> guard, -and the soldiers belonging to the town. In this country each caboceer -invariably keeps a clown or jester, many of whom are clever and amusing -on account of their ready wit. After the dance, which lasted about two -hours, I gave each of the party some rum, which is always expected -on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters, accompanied by the -caboceer, who seemed very anxious to maintain a friendly conversation, -evidently with a view to obtain information on general topics. He -remained till a late hour, when he retired to his home, leaving me once -more to enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen, and to take -notes for my Journal.</p> - -<p>The town of Paweea contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants. They -seem rather an industrious race in comparison with those near the -coast. Here, as well as in most other towns in the neighbourhood, the -mechanic is very much esteemed on account of his craft, but especially -the blacksmith, who in their own language is called a cunning man, -ranking next to the fetish-man or priest. The soil round this place is -a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered, consequently, the crops -are abundant, and the people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but -little labour. They seem a very happy race, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> well satisfied with -their present government and laws, which, previous to their subjection -to the King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in the extreme. This -town has two strong gates on the south-east and north-west sides, which -are closed at sunset, and guarded by soldiers or watchmen, who take -that duty in turn.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers, -that I have had a large quantity taken from a very severe wound I -received when in the Niger expedition. <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Williams and <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Thompson -can corroborate my assertion. The African fly blows live maggots -instead of eggs.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant—Presents—Names of -Caboceer, &c.—Granite Mountains—Tanks—The Aditay—Soil—The -Tawee—Mountains—Grain and Vegetables—The Zoglogbo -Mountain—Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo—Ascent of -the Mountain—Cotton-trees—Mountain-pass—Singular Situation -of the Town—Houses—Dahoman Political Agent—Probable Origin -of the Mountain—Kpaloko Mountain—Ignorance, assumed or -real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives—The Dabadab -Mountains—Superstition—Singular Method of conveying Cattle—Cruelty -to the Brute Creation—Difficult Descent—Agriculture and -Manufactures—Height of the Mountains—Death of Three Kings at -Zoglogbo—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Reception at Baffo—Costume of -Caboceer and his Wife—His Principal Wives—Beautiful Birds—Gigantic -Trees—Parasitical Plants—Singular Tree—Soil—Grain, Fruits, -&c.—Cattle—Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer—Goods exposed -for Sale—Rival Caboceers—Game—Pigeon-trap—Trial of Skill—Dog -poisoned—Increasing Illness of my Servant—The Caboceer’s principal -Cook.</p> -</div> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, July 13th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again -sent me plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great -kindness to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him -to partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of -meal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the -consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in -England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very -much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but -he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so -often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the -market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was -a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.</p> - -<p>After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on -our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town, -where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s -household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering -something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard -communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would -honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book. -This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest -honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I -readily acceded; and in a short time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> had all their names registered in -my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given -by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call -each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me; -but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed -surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over -the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure -from the town of Paweea.</p> - -<p>I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:—</p> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><td>Caboceer’s name</td><td>Terrasso-Weea.</td></tr> -<tr><td>1st Head man</td><td>Adah.</td></tr> -<tr><td>2d      do.</td><td>Chaaoulong.</td></tr> -<tr><td>4th       do.</td><td>Daowdie.</td></tr> -<tr><td>5th       do.</td><td>Avamagbadjo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>6th Head Musician</td><td>Hawsoo-Agwee.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people -with provisions and peto at Paweea<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> were:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tossau.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yakie.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bowka.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adassie.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Howta.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kossau.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nookodoo.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p> - -<p>We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of -the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay. -Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several -large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a -temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country -which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held -without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering -the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their -own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native -manufacture.</p> - -<p>About nine <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we recommenced our journey, the path bearing -N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, and at one mile <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 35° <abbr title="east">E.</abbr> I noticed the chain of mountains -running N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> and S.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, distant about four miles, and bearing north -from Paweea. The country round, however, is level, and studded with -palm and other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite -appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon -a nearer approach were found to be only marks left by the running down -of the water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on -the tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the -softer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon -becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking -the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.</p> - -<p>At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded -with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed -the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue -granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the -season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, -capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing -changed to <abbr title="east">E.</abbr> <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> <abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The -temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil -of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the -river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a -gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.</p> - -<p>At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, -and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing -<abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 35° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the -mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in -the Dahoman<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well -as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three -feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are -inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called -water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four -different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest -of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also -very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same -height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.</p> - -<p>At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a -splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high -on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the -market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain -of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of -Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. -He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of -age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, -and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within -about five yards of the place where I was seated,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> by the side of the -caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, -together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, -throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. -My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms -of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and -delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they -constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to -the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie -seemed very fond.</p> - -<p>We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or -fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large -cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the -rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing -amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their -flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the -mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, -and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone -which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend -with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> walked in -front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as -occasion required.</p> - -<p>After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the -gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, -strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much -easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so -that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above -twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the -town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of -the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are -thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses -are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a -tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected -with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal -merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of -squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are -frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also -occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own -families. Indeed, as I have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> already observed, they work together in -cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.</p> - -<p>The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary -utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were -brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness -of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention -were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young -man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent -African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity -in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and -Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to -chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less -than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any -combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey, -although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present -government and new laws.</p> - -<p>After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied -with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down -and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at -being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities -of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> cooked. Being -rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again -joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders -from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.</p> - -<p>It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged -to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing -upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while -conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain -backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether -this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance -with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard, -I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the -fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and -rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered -alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and -introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given -him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up, -and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable -evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span></p> - -<p>July 14th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay -me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he -had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and -soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great -beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately -amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre -of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some -volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> extreme of a range of -mountains running N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> and S.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr> and is the highest of that range. The -grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of -the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of -the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the -rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be -of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my -great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from -the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the -bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the -mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I -found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> been carried up into the -mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they -had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of -different shrubs and stunted trees.</p> - -<p>After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo, -where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country. -At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful -and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high, -named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are -three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape -and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he -denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked -several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed -to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so -near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or -even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan -priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the -Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling -made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the height<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> -by the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was -quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any -person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid -every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one -of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself -took the other.</p> - -<p>The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When -I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the -distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders -that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things, -it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After -descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place, -where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one -of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was -presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all -the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in -which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal -together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry -the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole -resting on the head of the carriers.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> Six men are generally appointed -to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem -impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to -carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is -very small in comparison with English oxen.</p> - -<p>The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They -throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough -gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is -cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from -such usage.</p> - -<p>After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the -merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness -I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles -of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to -the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent -old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour, -accompanying me.</p> - -<p>Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain -to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my -friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our -perilous descent. At the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> foot of the mountain we entered another town -of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought -round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to -ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I -found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in -Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets, -and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses, -neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry -officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured -here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes.</p> - -<p>The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned -measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> when the observer -is placed on the N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, distant -by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley -S.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the -place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined -armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman -army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined -armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> kingdom -in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong.</p> - -<p>These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and -threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army -of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in -numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings -fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded -the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three -moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three -kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that -which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.</p> - -<p>The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie -is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the -mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as -follows:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">1. Kpatchie.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">2. Bleedjado.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">3. Annagoonoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">4. Dawie.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">5. Dyenyho.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">6. Dosou say Footoh.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">7. Zayso avarahoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">8. Bayo Bozway.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">9. Dogano.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">10. Mapossay.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">11. Awenoo.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">12. Bokava.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span></p> - -<p>12 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, -bearing west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived -there. We were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his -principal wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed -with bows and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept -up a constant irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. -The caboceer and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of -cowries, fixed to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, -and about the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were -equipped similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a -very quick, active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and -very jealous of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to -Baffo.</p> - -<p>Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied -with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed -of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s -principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is -customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink -water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me -till he got intoxicated,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> when I advised him to return home, which -recommendation he immediately adopted.</p> - -<p>In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town, -taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a -crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the -natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very -large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast, -black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful -birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical -birds of Africa are migratory.</p> - -<p>We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very -pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the -rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The -town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great -variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk -cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here. -The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many -beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and -the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour. -A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> bearing a very -delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar -to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little -flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the -teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder.</p> - -<p>This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey -commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first -time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion, -caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along -the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is -nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated -atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I -cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the -end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for -many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were -pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded -over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier -days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow.</p> - -<p>Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking -how much gratification<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> I should have felt had any of my old friends -and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed -my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and -obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo.</p> - -<p>I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The -Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea -corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant; -tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod, -both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green -grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit, -much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant -here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the -size of a walnut.</p> - -<p>Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean -in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more -numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of -the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching -my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable -streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities, -some streams<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> being impregnated with iron, others with magnesia. -Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.</p> - -<p>After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I -returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting -us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my -liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as -regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum, -which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by -the natives, excepting peto.</p> - -<p>I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish -very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he -assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest -man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late -hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the -fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were -very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I -should see whether any alteration took place in him.</p> - -<p>July 15th.—Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his -morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending -me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span> -principal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an -ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the -Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself. -In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young -wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many -of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their -divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable, -he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the -market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view -of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted -to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods -round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives -dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but -it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed -by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course -the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller.</p> - -<p>The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for -sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception -of European manufactured goods: these, however,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> are very limited, -tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I -only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth -is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even -seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating -with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to -consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I -offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of -the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace -and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.</p> - -<p>About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman -attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty -persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of -kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent -of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having -an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but -this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of -jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so -that high words ensued.</p> - -<p>Although no preparation was made for our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> dinner, for I had remained at -Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with -the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable -friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises, -as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This -certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie -being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which -Baffo is situated.</p> - -<p>A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting -them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since -I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both -parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner -we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on -the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed -a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great -Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is -very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it, -it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most -daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> myself -with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.</p> - -<p>Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species, -some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some -horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male -of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly -three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age. -Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous -is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other, -except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their -resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant, -but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow -colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter, -and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The -natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.</p> - -<p>A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of -narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon -had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to -elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to -make it appear that he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> had shot it, destroyed part of the head before -presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was -not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion, -as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a -hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball, -he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave -him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and -sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked -him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the -paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his -companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing. -I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a -matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him -another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against -a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer -seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen -of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably -that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to -hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree, -which created some considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> surprise amongst the soldiers who -accompanied me.</p> - -<p>Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground, -apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of -his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of -its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short -distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and -in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in -about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred -yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely -venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I -left Whydah.</p> - -<p>Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently -worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to -be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his -present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed, -therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him -a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place -I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now -suffering much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of -terminating fatally.</p> - -<p>In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who -was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at -the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that -I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the -caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an -opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health -of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum, -for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning. -The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye, -though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain -of my guard was present.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts -for his surname.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Caboceer.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> Brother to the caboceer.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> Second in command of the soldiers.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>The River Loto—Jokao Mountain—Jetta—Reception by the -Caboceer—Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko—Its curious -Formation—Its former Importance on account of its -Manufactures—Desolating Effects of War—Attachment of the Natives -to particular Spots—Natural Tanks in the Mountains—Mount -Koliko—Precipitous Granite Rock—Similarity to Scottish -Scenery—The Nanamie—Laow, and the Laow Mountain—Kossieklanan -Cascade—Tamargee Mountains—Mineral Spring—Mount Koglo—Insulting -Conduct of the Caboceer—Whagba—Caboceer’s Hospitality—The -Town—Inhabitants—Kindness of Athrimy, the Caboceer of -Teo—War-Dance—Drunkenness—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Game—Curious -Pigeons—An Incident—Absurd Notion—Departure from Whagba—Names -of the Caboceer, &c.—Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow and -Massey—Beautiful Valley—Impregnable Position—The Caboceer -of Kpaloko—Grandeur of the Scene—Jeka Houssoo—The Dabadab -Mountains—Difficulty in obtaining Information—Resolve to leave my -Attendants—My Scheme—Departure—Zafoora—Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, -&c.—Shea-Butter used for Lamps.</p> -</div> - - -<p>July 18th.—Early in the morning we got ready for our march to Whagba. -I found my old friend Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one -hundred men, and to my surprise found a number of the Baffo soldiers -ready to escort me some distance from the town. We marched out with -the band playing one of the favourite Dahoman<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> airs, which seemed to -me to have more of discord than music about it. On passing the gates, -the path bears NN.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> across a level plain. After two miles we crossed -the river Loto, a fine clear stream, running east; and at two miles -and a half, and one hundred yards to the right of the path, a spot was -pointed out to me where the King of Dahomey and his army had encamped -for the space of three months, during the war with the King of Kpaloko, -who, after a siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to -surrender at discretion.</p> - -<p>The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing eastward, about eight miles -distant, the mountain of Jokao is seen; and on the left, about two -miles and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta, situated on a -mountain of that name. At three miles and a half we were met by the -caboceer of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers awaiting our arrival -in a market-place, through which we had to pass. This market-place, -like nearly all others, is shaded with large trees. The caboceer -received us with great courtesy, his guard keeping up an irregular fire -of musketry. After the usual compliments between both parties, we were -presented with plenty of provisions brought from their own town. Having -refreshed ourselves,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> I presented the caboceer and several of his head -men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta is between the two -mountains, Jetta and Kpaloko. The longitudinal form of these mountains -is north and south.</p> - -<p>At four miles, the path changing to east, we crossed a fine brook, -named Awadakoo, the small tributary streams of which were strongly -impregnated with iron. In the valley we found numerous blocks of -pebbles combined together with iron. At five miles we passed through -the ruins of the ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was killed, as -well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded the former king of that country, -who had brought his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army was -destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpaloko is of very curious -formation, being nearly perpendicular at the sides, and the top like -an acute arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession of concave -scales, varying in thickness from twenty to thirty feet, and placed one -upon another. These scales are formed of very hard granite of large -grain. Several of these scales had parted near the centre of the top -longitudinally, and slipped from their position down the side of the -mountain, resting with their lower edges on the ground, and forming -buttresses of five hundred feet long, and seventy feet high, leaving -a space of about forty-eight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> feet from the foot of the mountain, or -block, to the foot of the buttress.</p> - -<p>On examining the ruins of this large town, I found not one hut left -standing, showing the sad and desolating effects of war. This place -had once the character of being the greatest manufacturing town in -the kingdom of Mahee, extending her commerce through nearly the whole -of that country, as well as that of Annagoo. Now all was silent as -death—not a note or flutter even of any thing of the winged tribe was -heard. The intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air, rendered -the scene truly mournful and solitary. I could not help reflecting -upon the natural attachment of the natives to particular spots, for -although this town had been destroyed for years, the surviving natives -still cultivated the gardens and the land formerly occupied by their -ancestors and relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to be -wondered at, for each house is invariably the family sepulchre.</p> - -<p>The path now changed its bearing to N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> Being the rainy season, the -ground was very moist. And there are many good and permanent springs, -whose streams run longitudinally with the mountain, from which the -natives of the towns, now built on the top of the mountain, receive -their supplies when their tanks which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> are formed by nature on the top -of the mountain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran NN.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, with -rock on both sides, Mount Koliko, and the town of the same name, being -close on our left. The caboceer met us in the path with provision and -water, as well as some peto for our refreshment.</p> - -<p>After resting a quarter of an hour, we again proceeded on our march -along the side of a smooth granite rock, so much on the dip or -incline that my horse could scarcely keep his footing, though he was -very sure-footed. After passing about a quarter of a mile over this -dangerous road, the path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear -water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me of some of my native -glens, the haunts of my boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees -intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven together by various -running plants of the sweetest odour, rendered this part of the path -truly delightful and refreshing.</p> - -<p>At seven miles the path changed to <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 60° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, and we crossed a rapid -stream, named Nanamie, running <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> At seven miles and a half we passed -over a granite mountain, with good spring wells on the top. At eight -miles the valley became narrow, with high mountains on each side of -the path. The mountain on the left is named Laow,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> as is also the -town. The caboceer, with his attendants and soldiers, met us in the -path, with plenty of provisions and water, as well as rum, of which -my people drank very freely. Having presented this caboceer with some -trinkets and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey. The character of -this mountain differs considerably from those in the neighbourhood, -being divided into different sections of various thickness and strata, -running N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> and S.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, at a dip of 12° towards <abbr title="east">E.</abbr> by <abbr title="south">S.</abbr></p> - -<p>At eight miles and a half, NN.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, and at nine miles, NN.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>, I noticed -a fine brook and cascade, running south, named Kossieklanan; and on -the east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamargee, of considerable -magnitude. Here the palm and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance, -but the butter-trees have all undergone the operation of scorching. At -ten miles and a half I observed a chain of mountains, running north and -south, distant from the path two miles; the northernmost of these is -named Sawee.</p> - -<p>On these mountains is a sort of yellow and very fine grass, equal to -the finest needles, and about two feet high, growing in tufts similar -to rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage were entirely -scorched, being about the colour of yellow ochre. A shrub of the same -colour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> grows here, about ten feet high, with leaves placed on the tree -very similarly to our box, but about three times the length.</p> - -<p>At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the path two miles to the -right, are the mountains Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a -mountain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path. Here is in the -path a very fine spring, at the temperature of 62°, the water quite -clear and less impregnated with iron than most others.</p> - -<p>At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us, eighteen hundred feet -high, close to the left of the path, with a very large town on the -top. Here we were not met by the caboceer or any of his people, as -in other towns belonging to the King of Dahomey, but found they had -been making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the path. They had -killed a white fowl and filled an earthen pot with palm-oil and some -other composition, sticking the feathers into this composition and -placing the pot in the path. This is considered by them to be one of -the greatest insults which can be offered. However, I endeavoured to -convince them that their bad fetish was of no avail. Still my people -seemed rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance out of the -path.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span></p> - -<p>A little farther on, we came to a market-place, attended only by some -few women selling peto; but as these people were from the town of -Koglo, the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none of our party -should purchase anything. A messenger was immediately despatched to -Abomey to inform the King of the conduct of the caboceer of Koglo, who, -no doubt, will pay dearly for his bad fetish to the King’s stranger; -they are sure to be invaded next year. They were defeated this year, -but since that period the caboceer died, and his successor denies his -allegiance to the King of Dahomey; but he will no doubt be glad to -succumb, after a severe chastisement. At seventeen miles we came upon -a brook named Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain to the -eastward.</p> - -<p>At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile -and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and -his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and -then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating -their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is -fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty -yards wide. After passing through this outer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> fence, and about one -hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of -which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside -is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside -is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates. -Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from -Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome.</p> - -<p>The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more -independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any -of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much -revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the -caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of -my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make -me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the -space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two -stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite -unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little -damp, though the heat is so great.</p> - -<p>Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty -of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed -ourselves, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his -retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared -that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he -was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to -any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo. -The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several -minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He -was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as -regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were -strictly Dahoman.</p> - -<p>Sunday, July 20th.—A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some -distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with -him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready -cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey, -and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified -in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by -presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions -gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European -manufacture in return.</p> - -<p>This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> seemed to take -great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious -sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full -three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them -seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the -guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all -commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed -their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented -the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very -readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and -even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of -whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number.</p> - -<p>Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast, -consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in -their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day. -The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the -caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great -favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted -in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> which could possibly -be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore, -may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the -confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact -of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I -here set them down.</p> - -<p>After entering the names of the principals they determined upon -giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I -had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each -individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed, -expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great -fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">1. Kpaloo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">2. Damossee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">3. Kawpnhoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">4. Chassoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">5. Koothay.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">6. Bosa.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">7. Kossau Maboo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">8. Semanoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">9. Koyakway.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">10. Dadamy.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">11. Baadoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">12. Dyahoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand -thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would -soon again visit their country.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span></p> - -<p>I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba, -which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very -plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted -at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge -is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also -abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those -in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are -also found here of various plumage—green body, yellow and blueish -green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here -domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as -several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants, -bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels.</p> - -<p>An incident took place during my absence, which, although absurd, may -be worthy of notice here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas -and manners of the natives. During my temporary absence from the town, -the man who had charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept a bribe -from the caboceer to allow my horse, which was entire, to serve a very -handsome mare, presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> As -soon as the mare was brought near my horse he became unruly and broke -from his fastening and by some means tore or pulled off one of his -shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means it occurred, believing -that some of my people had been beating it, but every one denied all -knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared that I would punish -the man in charge of my horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he -were at his post he must be aware by what means my horse had lost his -shoe. This threat had the desired effect, and the man openly confessed -that he had been tempted by the reward of one head of cowries,<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> -(which at this place is forty-seven strings, each string containing -thirty-three cowries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country of -more value than five sovereigns would be in England,) to allow it, -although it is believed amongst these uncivilized beings that he is -thus entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is rendered -quite unfit to carry a rider after. This shows plainly the absence -of principle, for this man who had charge of my horse was a captured -slave, and had received a good education at the government school at -Sierra Leone; but passion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> so far overcame principle, that for one -dollar he would sacrifice my horse.</p> - -<p>The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my having learned all the -facts of the case, became alarmed, naturally supposing that I should -feel much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest I should make the -case known to the King of Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed, -that he would not venture into my presence during the whole of the -afternoon, but several of his messengers visited me, requesting to -know if I had every thing I wanted, and informing me that it was their -master’s wish I should be furnished with any thing I might require. -In the evening the caboceer and several of his head men and principal -wives, and also several of his daughters, ventured to visit me. Upon -approaching me, the old man in front, the whole party prostrated -themselves on the ground, throwing dust over their heads and shoulders, -until I had assured the caboceer of my forgiveness, at the same time -telling him that had he asked me, he should have been welcome to the -use of my horse. I also remonstrated with him upon the absurd notion -entertained by them. To my no small surprise, the old man presented -me with his youngest daughter for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling -me she<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> would be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my declining his -offer, the old man seemed rather offended, until I informed him that -as African wives were considered by their husbands to be also their -slaves, I could not, without a breach of the laws of my own country, -accept his offer. I told him, however, that I should make my proffered -wife a present of a few small cotton handkerchiefs, and when I again -passed through his country I should call for his daughter. This -reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his favourite child much -more satisfaction than leaving for ever her home to become a white -man’s slave.</p> - -<p>The old man furnished myself and people with an excellent supper and -plenty of peto. I invited him to spend the evening with me, and partake -of a glass of grog, which he very willingly accepted, and we parted for -the night the best of friends.</p> - -<p>July 21st.—Early in the morning, a messenger came to my house to -inquire after my health, and about an hour afterwards an excellent -breakfast was sent for myself and people. I had to put on the cast shoe -on my horse, which was a difficult task, as I had not proper nails, and -the hoofs of the African horses are so hard that a nail can<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> scarcely -be driven without the assistance of a brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I -had a few common nails and a shoemaker’s hammer, so that by beating the -nails a little thinner, and using the awl, I managed to fix the shoe, -and prepared for my journey back to Baffo. The caboceer had ordered all -his soldiers to prepare to accompany me as a sort of convoy out of the -town.</p> - -<p>All being arranged, the old man, and his numerous family and principal -people, led the procession, and we passed out of the gates of the -town, when immediately a running fire was commenced by the soldiers -of Whagba. After accompanying me about a mile, the old man signified -his intention of returning, and coming close to my horse he prostrated -himself and bade me farewell; but I begged that he would dispense with -such humiliation, assuring him that a white man did not require it. -He expressed his high sense of the honour conferred upon him by the -King sending his white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard -there were white people, but never expected to see one, but hoped that -I would soon again return, assuring me that my new bride should be -waiting for me whenever I came back, and that every comfort should be -furnished me, free of expense, whenever I might visit his country. We -then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> shook hands and parted, the old caboceer with tears in his eyes.</p> - -<p>I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer and head-men of -Whagba;<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> they are as follow—</p> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><td>Caboceer’s name</td><td>Agoa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>First Head-man</td><td>Cantra.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Second   do.</td><td>Bossa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Third    do.</td><td>Bassa.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fourth   do.</td><td>Whyo.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fifth Head-man</td><td>Bow.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sixth   do.</td><td>Baya.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Seventh   do.</td><td>Wynho.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Eighth   do.</td><td>Haigh, Commander-in-chief.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2">Head-women’s names—Wossee, Agwbydhe.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>On my return to Baffo we proceeded by the side of the mountain of -Kpaloko opposite to that we passed before, consequently we visited -other parties to those we had met on my journey to Whagba. The first -was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose name was Minakoko. On my return -I found him on the side of the path, with a number of his head men, -and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-five large calabashes full -together with a fine young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met me at -the same place, presenting me with the same quantity of provisions as -the above, which were more than we could all devour. After marching -about two miles in a beautiful valley, well watered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> and cultivated, -with Kpaloko on one side and Mount Laow on the other, as well as other -mountains equally steep and difficult of access, we were again met by -the caboceer of a town on the side of Mount Laow named Filaly, with -fifty-five calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels; he -also presented me with a very fine bull, and the caboceer of my guard -with two goats. Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was one of the -instances of surnames.</p> - -<p>In passing this valley of several miles in length, and of three -quarters of a mile in breadth, I could not help observing its natural -defences as a military position. On our left was Kpaloko, whose steep -sides are totally inaccessible, and Mount Laow, running parallel on -the opposite side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible, -although not so high. Supposing this valley were walled across (which -is narrow at each end) with batteries on the top, and properly armed, -a disciplined army might, with proper resources, defy any number of -enemies. The valley is composed of excellent soil, and rears annually -four crops of the small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would -grow in our British isles; and, with other vegetables, which grow with -equal rapidity, would support an army constantly, capable of defending<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> -it during any siege, however prolonged. It has numerous springs, -besides a considerable stream, which passes along in a serpentine -course.</p> - -<p>After reaching the end of this interesting valley, we were met at the -market-place on the side of the path, under some large trees, by the -caboceer of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine calabashes of -provision and a fine bull. His name was Janko. While resting under -the shade of the gigantic trees I could not help looking back with -wonder on the singular work of the Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense -blocks, which might well be called mountains of granite, we had passed, -thrown together in a confused mass or heap, overhanging the valley in -awful grandeur, presented certainly the most interesting scene of the -kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was very communicative and -intelligent, and, I learnt, was much loved and respected by his people.</p> - -<p>After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had -done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our -return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took -up my old quarters.</p> - -<p>July 22d.—Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko, -came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> -for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and -explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to -ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal. -They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old -Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the -custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> mountains, where I should find -Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and -present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me -every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of -that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain. -When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer -uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they -could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far -away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer.</p> - -<p>I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that -no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might -require information upon, was to pretend to answer any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> inquiries. -But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these -mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from -my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with -difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me. -I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short -shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men -sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This -was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained, -I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my -intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing -through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond -a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the -place where we should find Terrasso-weea.</p> - -<p>They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told -them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many -objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of -the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety -and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my -guard was responsible by his head for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> my safe return; they moreover -observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an -armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my -intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a -present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my -return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer -for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all -quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out -early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them -to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing -a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles, -and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I -generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was -evinced by any of the rest of my party.</p> - -<p>It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from -Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision -and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings -of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers -were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> one of whom -happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I -not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out -to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to -become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However, -I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once -told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading -in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains.</p> - -<p>The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich -loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving -Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a -few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, -and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are -also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the -shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a -very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the -shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple -as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted -from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the -vessel,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence -of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The -lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are -left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted -wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns -extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Commander-in-chief of the militia.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> After proceeding some distance into the interior the -cowrie increases in value.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was -selected as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and -summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of -dumpling, made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My -Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver with -the King—Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans—Inhospitality—The -Shea-butter, and other Trees—The Gwbasso—Prevalent -Diseases—Soil—The Velvet Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold -Reception by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard -Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King Chosee -and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment of Danger—Result -of a Firm Demeanour—Respect shewn by the King and Natives—Enter -Koma with a Band of Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the -King’s Wives—Palaver with the King—The Niger known here as the -Joleeba—Presents to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges -for Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle -of the Caboceer—Slave-Market—Trade Monopolized by the -Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the -Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous -Confusion—Inhospitality.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed -in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at -short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However, -as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold -and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless -informed the caboceer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> or king of our approach, and he had sent a -messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came, -and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was, -that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate -till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people -now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that -we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No -ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but -all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned, -informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us. -Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his -appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers, -who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as -they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted. -The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted. -During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told -him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view -besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan -fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.</p> - -<p>As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span> aroused from stupor, -was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment -and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after -a long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This -seemed almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that -my people were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. -My poor fellows were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a -little tired, although I had walked some considerable distance. I had -travelled forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much -as possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I -could purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be -brought, from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon -asking the price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. -This was an exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other -is 1¹⁄₂<i><abbr title="pence">d.</abbr></i>; however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, -although I had only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be -absent more than a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, -but although they would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet -money—money seemed to speak their language better than any thing else, -as in fact it does in all countries.</p> - -<p>This circumstance was rather a damper on a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> private scheme I had then -in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was -both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place -was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing -I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun, -and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of -sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One -man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned -from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora, -that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information -was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining -information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named -Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po, -whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence -of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain -three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already -experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were -too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that -the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.</p> - -<p>I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my -guard in a clandestine manner,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> and in all probability I might be the -means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might -incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real -friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied -me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined -to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three -soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my -friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman -whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my -return, which would be as soon as possible.</p> - -<p>The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting -the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King -of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me -belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was -now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name -of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those -mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from -small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance -of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those -who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> -was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be -mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on -the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad -when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well -as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with -my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in -the morning—rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored -our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at -this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry -respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to -receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything -in return.</p> - -<p>July 24th.—Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made -a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to -Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 35° -<abbr title="west">W.</abbr> varying to <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 10° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> and <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 15° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> (true) bearing. The country was -level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes -and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many -large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more -rough<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this -neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of -considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep. -The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward -at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of -great size, as well as hippopotami.</p> - -<p>Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a -few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers, -each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants. -Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives; -probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was -strictly forbidden.</p> - -<p>At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet, -running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was -at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of -our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and -brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a -fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had -a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the -corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span></p> - -<p>We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my -men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now -very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a -tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba. -Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be -admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to -ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the -caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know -my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of -no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I -came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea. -This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it -very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our -palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my -people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their -friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer, -<i>the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing</i>.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> -However, we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, -respecting white men’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> country, and also respecting the Dahoman -country, which they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against -the Dahomans for not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass -through into the Fellattah country.</p> - -<p>The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that -I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty -to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no -other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to -trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods -were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles. -These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would -like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all -very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling, -we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were -obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his -family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as -nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method -of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which -saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red -rice, which grows in this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> country, and with the two fowls and some -shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left -to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of -any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not -scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so -much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl -and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy -drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we -commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow, -and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it. -The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions, -to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where -indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon -a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is -made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed -in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this -kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also -stirrups, similar to those used by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span> the Moors in the neighbourhood of -Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured -here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having -in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to -pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb, -but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently -the case in the Fellattah country.</p> - -<p>In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks -with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain, -and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs -eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes -of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly -level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance -to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated -land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as -our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we -were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the -caboceers of our coming.</p> - -<p>When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn -plantation, we were met by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> Chosee, the King of this province, preceded -by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us, -flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by -the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the -little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very -fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never -having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment, -not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but -confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however, -long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence -in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a -barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger -and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur, -though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the -danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms -of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but -I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my -drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless -for us to sell our lives cheaply.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span></p> - -<p>Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was -aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this -troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and -that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they -stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity -of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the -whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song, -each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their -King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to -advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers -and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior -rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening -the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself. -I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was -in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was -not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook -hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this -country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After -going through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers -of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.</p> - -<p>This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled -and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the -market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments -like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European, -but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it. -I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed -since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made -aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit -Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent, -independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King -with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his -sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.</p> - -<p>After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some -of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of -which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to -station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> -Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a -white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as -if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked -one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives -hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should -be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt -they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first -presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving -that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and -my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner -apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst -which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered -salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this -alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and -contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.</p> - -<p>The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with -Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was -rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span> to acknowledge that I -had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at -Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened -to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King -of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing -through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might -have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country -to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with -this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for -their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me -whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more -in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to -be able to supply in abundance.</p> - -<p>He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter -into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and -Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved -of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied -that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here -by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge -of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> the unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as -he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to -that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the -natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been -known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living.</p> - -<p>The Niger appears to be known here only by the name <i>Joleeba</i>, not -<i>Joliba</i>. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. -Fever and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though -a very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called -yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person -is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the -arms and legs even to the bone.</p> - -<p>After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my -march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors, -with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for -offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not -aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to -make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list -of the articles which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> he would prefer that I should bring on my next -visit, to which of course I assented.</p> - -<p>His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that -night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over, -I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a -messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next -town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named -Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent -crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants -for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on -account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma, -and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides.</p> - -<p>The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in -this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without -great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the -King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey -to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked -him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried -with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> were so very dear, -that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes -twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one -string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but -would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken -any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take -any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents. -I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the -wood with which he supplied us.</p> - -<p>The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior -description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is -grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large -description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so -handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of -intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of -knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation. -The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants.</p> - -<p>At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled -corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearing <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 33° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, true bearing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span> -varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to -25°, 20° to 80° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> During the first twelve miles the country was -nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed -the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of -carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka. -Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did -not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was -roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our -attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater -display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally -very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for -he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all -merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market.</p> - -<p>Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some -in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons -were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many -instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be -perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are -invariably the property of the owners of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span> parents, and are bought -and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the -breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the -walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two -walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is -often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market -is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there -are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town.</p> - -<p>The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the -prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade -(with the exception of any European goods which may find their way -into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public -market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for -his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the -inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger -boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking -light goods for sale.</p> - -<p>The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized -by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic, -and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> mouth when -parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state -is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country. -Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also -bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are -arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being -sold in places specially appointed for their sale.</p> - -<p>In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the -piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always -sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no -inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant -here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken -in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb, -consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto -is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made -strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk -in a state of fermentation.</p> - -<p>After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned -me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake -of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> pots, made in -the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken -their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to -ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the -event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I -knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get -rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen -Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart. -I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods -if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew, -however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the -price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female -slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand -cowries.</p> - -<p>After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed -my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and -a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I -found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was -level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of -iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> -The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with -large trees of luxurious growth.</p> - -<p>At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah. -Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now -getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to -obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten -a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people, -as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more -substantial food.</p> - -<p>After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the -town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with -a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features. -My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our -treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey, -as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time -to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great -consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie. -I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much -consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces, -the caboceer made a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span> sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves, -and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they -styled king.</p> - -<p>Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay -him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no -further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in -his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious. -I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for -the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought -if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to -be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the -protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he -could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining -fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado, -and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some -distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into -another.</p> - -<p>After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse -could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I -did not at all relish. The objection made was that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span> the doorways were -too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the -poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low -doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.</p> - -<p>At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a -quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones -for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were -busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous -confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl -pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the -dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or -anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and -very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening -to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than -three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood -to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain -for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they -seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and, -though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged -to satisfy ourselves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span> with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we -still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me -plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which -I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I -easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said -his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a -large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.</p> - -<p>He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply -of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my -hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking -that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the -first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement, -that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real -belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine, -but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted -ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced -to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd -ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), -and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span> to examine the -contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at -the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.</p> - -<p>In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters, -and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to -trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any -knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one -and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night, -during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying, -as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a -bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this -country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water -yams.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Inhospitality—Good Fortune—Soil—Mahomedan Town—Hymn of -Welcome—The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.—Manufactures, -&c.—The Crown-bird domesticated—Quampanissa—Market -Day—Curiosity of the Natives—A Cranery—Market Constables, -their Functions—Singular Musical Instrument—A Palaver with the -Caboceer—Bidassoa—Mishap—A Bivouac—Reception by the Caboceer—Palm -Wine freely taken by Mahomedans—Superstition of the Natives—Grain -Stores—Manufactures—Buffaloes—Fruit Trees—Horses, their market -price here—Cattle—Elephants—Manufactures—Game—Method of -drying Venison—Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.—Kosow—Terror of the -Native Females—Appearance of the Caboceer—Palaver—Presents to -the Caboceer—His Harem—Swim across the River Ofo—Its Width, -&c.—The Town of Kasso-Kano—Slave-Market—The Women—Neighbouring -Hills—Iron—Antimony—Native System of smelting Ore—Native Furnace -and Bellows—Roguery—Bivouac.</p> -</div> - - -<p>After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we -re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without -breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town, -consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to -the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government, -and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and -several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span> -divested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As -soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think -of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance -from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in -the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated.</p> - -<p>We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not -long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of -an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few -previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour: -even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to -cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid, -I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself.</p> - -<p>The path from Assofoodah<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> bears <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 45° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, varying from 45° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> to -10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying -from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some -soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery. -It is very productive.</p> - -<p>At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with -a prickly hedge, at least<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span> twenty yards broad, and strongly walled -inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded -by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a -messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long -before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as -they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding -out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half -long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper, -resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me, -consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of -it.</p> - -<p>I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though -he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the -Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would -be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could -scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which -I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this -was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers.</p> - -<p>After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they -all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span> -prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting, -shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each -time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their -country, signifies, <i>How are you?</i> or, <i>How do you do?</i> The -chief was a fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of -age, and very active for a man of his years.</p> - -<p>The natives of this country are very different, both in form and -appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of -temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in -their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are -either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their -cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal -bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers -of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had -anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.</p> - -<p>After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the -court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash -of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A -bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is -abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> cook -our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we -were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn -for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea -fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man -speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some -scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to -enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over -the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle -with only the usual daily trade.</p> - -<p>This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different -trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were -occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil -are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same -principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact -upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less -workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very -regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with -considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are -also well known here.</p> - -<p>The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span> of plenty. But the -extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition -of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the -immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal -upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the -administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful -crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated. -They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I -ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that -between Abomey and Canamina.</p> - -<p>We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town, -followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer, -or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his -people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our -satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some -of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of -ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason -unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of -a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the -chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey -rejoicing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span></p> - -<p>We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with -nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had -passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.</p> - -<p>Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still -bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles -we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we -entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere -being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march -was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down, -while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo, -as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were -surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market, -and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In -fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost -upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch -a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings -seemed to create a great sensation.</p> - -<p>In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds -in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe -of distinct<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the -sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in -any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time -the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected, -several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides -fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right -and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it -appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or -gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These -people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision -exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men -were clearing a passage for their master to advance.</p> - -<p>The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the -exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction -to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board, -about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo -cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which -the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or -slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> -slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of -this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument -I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a -somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed -out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the -concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed -over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is -not equal to that I have just described.</p> - -<p>The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and -confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for -us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying -down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his -country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief -professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and -remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto), -but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was -caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market -were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only -native manufacture I saw was cloth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span></p> - -<p>After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our -journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but -it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went -a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there -encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my -small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not -before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a -considerable distance to procure more water.</p> - -<p>This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular -propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it. -I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire, -it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left -to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled -to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a -town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had -given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were -desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in -such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving -them lessons,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span> till overcome with sleep. During the night we were -obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel -inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably -good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then -aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon -prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon -consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant -suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town, -without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in -his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We -were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the -same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were -requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances, -the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards -with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief -and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found -the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as -intoxicating.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span> In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I -was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one -single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or -compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though -they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they -interfere with the food of the latter.</p> - -<p>Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on -other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither -will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it. -Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed -by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of -turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as -soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds, -all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and -trees.</p> - -<p>This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn, -their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by -building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a -hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out -when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span></p> - -<p>The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof -of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and -long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow -ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in -diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> - -<p>Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter -is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very -anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour -an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of -white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They -seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like -myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.</p> - -<p>Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for -ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants, -and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw -no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the -houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite -common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p> - -<p>After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles -and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our -journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety -to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of -Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also. -We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had -repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and -safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 23° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, and -varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> The land now became -uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling -slate, different to any thing I had before observed.</p> - -<p>At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine -cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and -palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also -abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at -this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the -crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The -principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground -beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span> as well as kankie, ready -cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.</p> - -<p>There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a -few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved -and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles -we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable. -Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full -bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters -over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig -also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.</p> - -<p>At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants. -Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much -resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer -breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of -cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa, -but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an -hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man, -who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his -village.</p> - -<p>The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span> and the sheep -considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two -very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we -were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing -it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very -handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their -manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to -those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a -great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame -state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in -nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite -article of commerce.</p> - -<p>We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in -flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different -vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their -principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its -value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces, -dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of -the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered -preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span> -drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom -by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.</p> - -<p>The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very -productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as -an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The -beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and -villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different -to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing -fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They -were very delicious and refreshing.</p> - -<p>At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a -pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we -observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea -corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but -upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We -remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been -made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several -persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of -us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span> -females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow -and spear.</p> - -<p>In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His -little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or -saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of -the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of -the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity, -although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his -countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual, -into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out -of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our -business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As -usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable -satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow -until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire -that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly -objected to as likely to give offence.</p> - -<p>My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the -chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be -allowed to pass through the country without the great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span> king of the -country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man -failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the -great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence, -and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.</p> - -<p>Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white -man was going to <i>dash</i> him, or what present he was going to make -him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger -visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been -in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might -ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to -his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there. -Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to -Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of -obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s -harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes -upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.</p> - -<p>He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one -hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer -than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span> features and figures -were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I -had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed -within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed -gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s -females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality -of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of -one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I -was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised -him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with -less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He -picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me, -doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could -not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.</p> - -<p>After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we -resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river -Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into -a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations -for swimming across. One of my people carried<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span> a change of linen, and -two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as -presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the -horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water, -for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me -across with a rapidity scarcely credible.</p> - -<p>I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned -me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We -crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet. -My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge -into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved -their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on -their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of -keeping it in a water-tight case.</p> - -<p>Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made -their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and -he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across -at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps -a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it -is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river. -Travellers with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> heavy loads cannot cross this river without employing -the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we -had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and -twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a -half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction.</p> - -<p>To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet, -boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine, -leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece -of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very -thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide, -and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over -board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and -wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the -bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same -time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the -depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty -yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the -wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the -line carefully up previously to throwing it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span></p> - -<p>The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet -above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river -till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions, -and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at -twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This -town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three -market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and -though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily -employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering -their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve -years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized -them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair.</p> - -<p>Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin, -and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and -naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The -chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same -office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of -the trade in all articles of consumption.</p> - -<p>The hills in this neighbourhood abound with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> iron, and another mineral -substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is -probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board -in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during -the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and -considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely -rubbing it round it.</p> - -<p>Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore. -The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman -cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is -built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and -about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers -inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from -the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows, -which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The -bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of -wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard -long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are -fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one -end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the -block of wood:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span> it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges. -Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the -sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body -of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates -with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close -on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers, -being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same -principle as the bellows used in England.</p> - -<p>The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in -each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the -other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept -up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that -used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old -gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their -way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this -purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the -interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it.</p> - -<p>But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be -procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer -of charcoal and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span> iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at -the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours -elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of -course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the -bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that -which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn -to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to -be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most -efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough -and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though -swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in -Kassokano.</p> - -<p>The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my -interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never -hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing -my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads -off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured -them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a -white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some -evil<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> art, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course -ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect.</p> - -<p>After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we -were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered -us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so -filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves -had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much -annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp -somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he -seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my -gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey, -never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town.</p> - -<p>We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the -southern gate, the path bearing <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 30° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, and at two miles from the -town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some -rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle -a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my -poor fellows, who were evidently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span> beginning to show symptoms of having -been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I -found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined -to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times -hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old -adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put -my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but -I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to -proceed.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in -the neighbourhood of Whydah.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Peculiar Breed of Dogs—The Town of Zabakano—Market -Day—Native Manufactures—Domestic Slaves—Palm Oil—Joleeba, -or Niger—Horses make part of the Family—Pelican -Nest—Pigeons—Kindness of the Gadadoo—Pigeon Shooting—Palaver -with the Gadadoo—Population—Mounted Soldiers—Character of -the Scenery—Grooba—Manufactures—The Town of Sagbo—Drilling -System general here—Two sorts of Rice—Received by the Gadadoo -with great Pomp—Palaver—Dromedary and Elephant—Prevalent -Diseases—The Town of Jakee—Reception—Ancient Custom—Breakfast -of the Natives—Manufactures—Terror of the Natives—Chalybeate -Springs—The River Jenoo—The Land Tortoise—Interesting Panorama—The -Town of Kallakandi—Reception by the Sheik—Palaver—Band of -Musicians—Peculiar Instruments—Manufactures, &c.—Slave -Market—Horses—Laws-Cruel Punishment—Population—Attack on a -Boa-Constrictor—Manufactures—Deer—Method of Preserving Meat -and Fish—Trap for Wild Animals—Town of Ongo—Reception by the -Caboceer—Interesting Aspect of the Country.</p> -</div> - - -<p>July 29th.—We kindled a fire, and made breakfast, and at sunrise we -again commenced our journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano. The -country was much of the same character as that we had recently passed. -Here I observed a particular species of dogs, much coarser than those -in the Kong Mountains, where the breed is very much like the British -greyhound though<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span> not so large. After passing over several small -streams of good water, of which we had each a hearty draught, we, at -seven miles, arrived at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King met -me, and escorted me with two hundred horsemen. He was well acquainted, -it appeared, with the priest Terrasso-weea.</p> - -<p>This town is beautifully situated, commanding a view of the surrounding -country to a great distance. The people seem cheerful and contented. -This was one of the principal market-days, consequently I had an -opportunity of observing the supplies of the different articles of -trade and consumption. It was well supplied with native produce, and a -greater quantity of rice was exposed than in any other market I have -visited in Africa. Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets -and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste and skill in -Bornou, and brought thither by Terrasso-weea’s trading party. Tanning -and dyeing are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a peculiar -sort of slippers are here manufactured, similar to those we found in -Tangiers.</p> - -<p>The chief possesses a great number of domestic slaves, but sells none -of them. They are chiefly employed in trading with the surrounding -towns and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span> -cultivation, to a considerable distance round. Palm-oil is manufactured -here, and is actually transported, by the tributary navigable streams, -to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it is here known. Here -it is not known either by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this -circumstance is not at all surprising, for I find that all the rivers -have different names in the various countries through which they flow. -I have also, in many instances, found two places with the same name, -at no very great distance from each other; but, in fact, the same may -be observed in our own country. Native iron and nitre were abundant in -this market.</p> - -<p>Horses here invariably make part of the family, being fastened to a peg -driven into the ground or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a -foot of rope. The children are often seen playing between the legs of -the animal, with which it seems much pleased, often nibbling at their -heads with its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would.</p> - -<p>The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us with every thing which -might tend to our gratification; and, though he was the principal -trader himself, he accompanied us through every part of the town. Close -to the town is a lake, supplied partly by a small stream, and partly -by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span> the heavy rains during the season. On this lake were a number of -large trees, upon which were the nests of the pelican, a great number -of which we saw roosting on the branches. I had never seen the nest -of the pelican on a tree since I was in Egga, a town on the banks -of the Niger, when I was there with the late unfortunate expedition -under Captain Trotter. I then shot several on the trees; but here, at -Zabakano, the inhabitants had an objection to my killing any of them; I -could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons were very numerous here, -both the wood-pigeon and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to -my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient for my party for this -and the following day. We were obliged to cook them immediately.</p> - -<p>We were, however, very kindly treated by the chief or gadadoo, who -strongly urged us to remain a day with him. This kind treatment seemed -to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage and animation; in fact, -it seemed to act as a fresh stimulus to all of us. The natives were -quite delighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one or two of -them were acquainted with such guns as had found their way to this -town, and several others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they -had no idea; for guns are not allowed to be brought here by way of -trade in a perfect state,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span> and even were they, still without powder -they would be useless.</p> - -<p>The chief has a very large number of wives, but the principal portion -of them are merely employed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all -the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The civilized portion is very -limited, even on the coast. The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer -for my carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so much service -to him as his bow or sabre, unless he had a supply of ammunition; that -as I had visited his country partly with a view to ascertain what -articles would be most likely to suit their markets, I should, as -soon as possible, return with a large stock of suitable merchandise. -A story like this was much more likely to be believed amongst savages -than any other excuse I could make for visiting their country. If told -that my object was merely for scientific purposes, they would not have -understood me, and would have been more likely to look upon me with -suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can take interest about any -thing not of a pecuniary nature.</p> - -<p>This town contains about nine thousand inhabitants; it is clean and -open, but I was informed that after the conclusion of the rainy season -fever and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span> much dreaded -by the natives, and seems to be the principal disease here. I have -not observed one case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although -at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is prevalent, affecting the -head, and not unfrequently enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much -as totally to obscure vision. This distortion of nature, as may be -supposed, has an extremely repulsive appearance.</p> - -<p>After remaining about an hour and a half, I gave the gadadoo some small -presents, which he received with apparent satisfaction. He and his head -men, as well as his two hundred mounted soldiers, then conveyed me some -distance from the town, going through their manœuvres of attack at the -same time. This was merely a wild rush without any order or discipline, -and so far from their being (as has been represented) a formidable -force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined horsemen would easily -annihilate the whole party.</p> - -<p>Here we parted from the most generous and affable chief we had met -with since leaving the Mountains of Kong. During this day’s journey, -our bearing changed from <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 45° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> to 12° 10°, 35°, 43°, and due West -(true). The country now became very pleasant, and the path not so -rough under foot. Around us in different<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> directions were numerous -hills, giving a relief to the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain. -We crossed several small clear streams, some of which had worn their -channels nine or ten feet deep.</p> - -<p>At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town of Grooba. Here the -old chief, or head man, received us very kindly; doubtless, he had -received a message which prompted this friendly reception. This town is -clean and neat for an African town. The only manufacture of note here -is cotton tobes, but different in pattern to the cloths manufactured -in the Kong Mountains, which are invariably striped with various -colours; but here the cloth is all either blue or white, similar to -the tobes worn by the Mandingo traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here -the blacksmith plies his trade, but only for the accommodation of the -inhabitants of the town. A sort of cloth is also manufactured from the -inner bark of a certain tree, which is very strong and durable, and of -various colours. This when woven into cloth has a very rich appearance; -long sashes or girdles of the same material are worn by most of the -influential persons.</p> - -<p>At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream and kindled a fire, -where we cooked some of our pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We -afterwards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span> resumed our journey, and at twenty-eight miles arrived at -the town of Sagbo. Around this town the country is well cultivated, and -the drilling system seemed generally adopted. This is, doubtless, an -advantage during the rainy season. Four different sorts of maize are -cultivated here, as well as two sorts of rice, white and red. Here they -have a better mode of cleaning and preparing the rice for use than any -other place I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant, as also the -palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is cultivated, and rudely manufactured -in nearly all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee country.</p> - -<p>The chief and his head men and bowmen received us in a similar manner -as at other places, with great pomp and solemnity, his priests taking -the lead in conducting us into the market-place, advancing at a slow -pace and repeating some select portion from the Koran. This ceremony, -upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral procession in England. After -we reached the palaver place in the market, we were invited to sit -down, and water was handed to us. Nothing else, however, of a liquid -nature was offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as to our -purpose in visiting the country. These<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span> questions I answered to the -same effect as I had previously done. My reply seemed to give general -satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by bowmen and spearmen, many of -whom were very fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or sheik, -as he is here called, amused himself by playing with his beard, rather -an uncommon ornament amongst these people, and highly esteemed. We were -presented with two fowls by one of the head men, to whom in return I -gave two papers of needles.</p> - -<p>This town is well supplied with good water, and the cattle, both sheep -and oxen, are very handsome; the horses are small, but well bred. The -dromedary and elephant are here to be met with tame. The sugar-cane -is also cultivated, and very large, but not manufactured. The liquor -after boiling the cane is used mixed with the meal of the Indian corn, -instead of, or rather as we use tea or coffee; sometimes a little -ginger, which grows here spontaneously, is added to it. This is a very -wholesome and palatable beverage.</p> - -<p>Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc amongst the inhabitants, -and was still destroying numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great -interest in my recommendation to inoculate from the cow-pox, and -several times put the question to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span> me, whether I could not myself -perform the operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he has a -great number. I excused myself for want of material, or matter. The -inhabitants vary very much in colour, which proves the undoubted -mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The greater part of the -inhabitants of Sagbo are very dark, tall, and well formed. The general -development of their cranium is good; they are very keen traders, -cheerful and affable, and nearly all Mahomedans.</p> - -<p>I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little stock, which was now -fast diminishing, and to give a few needles and a thimble, as well -as a Jew’s harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew’s harp a wonderful -piece of consecrated iron. We then recommenced our journey, the country -bearing the same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little larger -than I had met with during my last four days’ journey.</p> - -<p>After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at thirty-eight miles, at -the town of Jakee. The chief of this town is subject to the chief of -Sagbo, who directs or governs six large towns in his own locality. It -appeared that a private messenger had been despatched from Sagbo to -inform the chief of this town of my coming. The same<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span> messenger was -with the chief of Jakee when he met me half a mile from the town. The -old man received me with marked courtesy, and without much ceremony we -were conducted into his court-yard.</p> - -<p>As it was getting late, and we had expressed our intention of remaining -all night, the chief readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his -own court-yard, where we were to repose for the night; and upon our -informing him of our long journey, he seemed to sympathize with us, -and in a great measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but joined -us in our quarters, where he seemed delighted to receive information -respecting white man’s country, and also of the country we had passed -through. He expressed his great surprise that a man should venture so -far from his home and relations, and run the risk of casualties in so -many strange lands. This man had by some means heard of the unfortunate -Niger expedition, probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has been -long acquainted. He took great interest in the trade of his own town, -and expressed a great desire to know by what means he might increase -it. We were rather annoyed during the early part of the evening by -numerous curious visitors who came to have a peep at us, and some -watchfulness was required, though we had little to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span> robbed of; -however, it was the more necessary to preserve the little we had got.</p> - -<p>30th July.—Early in the morning we were aroused by the ringing of a -number of bells or gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient -custom, are rung round the town every morning at day-break to apprise -the inhabitants that it is time to get up. These gong-gongs are used -also to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack upon the town. As -soon as this procession had passed, the chief paid us a visit, and -inquired very kindly after our health. We were supplied with a quantity -of the juice of the sugar-cane, and some meal mixed with it, about the -consistence of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast, with the -addition of some round balls, about the size of a potato, made from an -under-ground bean, which is very abundant in this country. This bean -is ground into meal and made into round balls. It is then fried in an -earthen pot with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a tolerably good -flavour.</p> - -<p>After distributing some needles and Jew’s harps, we recommenced our -journey. During this day our bearing varied from <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 25° <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> to 12°, 35°, -40°, and 22° <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> towards <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> At six miles we arrived at a small market -on the path for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span> the sale of provisions to travellers. Here they also -sold water, which is at all times a bad omen for travellers, as showing -its scarcity. We secured a calabash filled with water for a paper of -needles, which seemed to take well in this part of the country. We -were, however, happily mistaken in our fears respecting water in this -instance, for, at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called -Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water. This kroom is famous -for its tan-pits and dye-vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a -distance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing their cloths and -thread. Besides the indigo, they have a yellow and red colour which -they manufacture, with which they dye both leather and cloth. Here the -natives carve quantities of wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with -considerable taste. They seemed much alarmed at our presence, many of -them running away upon our approach. As soon, however, as they learned -that we were friends, they returned and would soon have become too -familiar. We remained here only a short time, and then resumed our -journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the Kabra Mountains, along -the sides of which we travelled, passing several small krooms or towns -at their base, some of which we entered.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span></p> - -<p>We found here several chalybeate springs, strongly impregnated with -carbonate of iron of a deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we -arrived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable by large canoes at -all seasons of the year. It runs to the eastward, and is fordable at -this season by persons on foot, not exceeding three feet and a half -deep, with sandy bottom, and not more than twelve yards wide, with a -current not exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however, are not very -abundant, as the natives are unacquainted with the method of catching -them; I observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is rather singular -that the conchology of all the inland rivers in this part of Africa is -very limited, a sort of mussel being the only shell which I observed.</p> - -<p>Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or prawn is the only thing -I noticed. The land-tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of -rivers, and is used by the natives for food. Having halted a short time -after crossing the river, we again resumed our journey, passing amongst -some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented climbing plants, whose blossoms -spread a sweet odour for a considerable distance. We marched some miles -through this interesting panorama<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span> before we again reached the open -plain. Here the soil again assumed a lighter colour, of a gravelly -nature, and studded with trees of various kinds. The soil and small -brooks still proved the presence of iron.</p> - -<p>At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of Kallakandi. Here we were -tolerably well received by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems intrusted -with the government of a certain district of considerable extent. It -appeared that he had only obtained intelligence of our approach a -little while previous to our arrival, and was therefore flurried, and a -little cautious and reserved in receiving us; but being acquainted with -our object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at once familiar, -and informed us that he had occupied, with all his retinue, the very -quarters assigned to me for the night.</p> - -<p>We entered into conversation or palaver, which continued until dark. He -seemed very intelligent, and had by his own account been at Timbuctoo, -and gave exactly the same account of the place as the Mahomedan priest -at Abomey, who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea thither. The -sheik very kindly sent us two ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for -our supper, as also two yams and some corn, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span> plenty of good water. -He again joined us after supper, seeming eager to obtain information. -At length he proposed to retire, which was very agreeable to us, for we -were very tired. He promised to call us early in the morning, to which -arrangement he was very punctual, for certainly he aroused us some time -sooner than we wished. This being market-morning, the town was all -bustle.</p> - -<p>Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo, we were visited by -a band of singing women, who were accompanied by musicians, with -instruments very similar to our German flute, made from the hollow -cane and bottle-shaped gourds, with the pulpy part taken out and -dried, with hundreds of human teeth strung together like beads, and -loosely fastened like net-work over the gourd, which were shaken in -the hand, keeping time to the other instruments used in the native -bands of music: a similar instrument is used in Dahomey. Prostration on -addressing a superior is common here, though they do not rub themselves -with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee country. I took a short ramble -round the town and market-places, both the outer and inner.</p> - -<p>Here I had an opportunity of observing the articles of commerce exposed -for sale, which,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span> however, differed very little from those I have -already mentioned in other places. Smiths’ work is done here in a -superior manner to most other towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks -are made here; the axe is made to fit into the handle, instead of the -handle into the axe, the crown or pole of the axe being made like a -spike, and driven into a hole passed through the end of the handle. -They are also excellent farmers. The weavers also display considerable -taste in the manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have not -observed elsewhere but in Abomey.</p> - -<p>Slaves were exposed in the outer market in great numbers, and early in -the morning considerable numbers had changed owners. Sheep, goats, and -oxen, are numerous, and very handsome. Horses are handsome also, but -small, few exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are numerous in this -town, and are of various kinds. The vulture is common in all the towns -in this country. The government may be said to be quite despotic, for -though a certain power is pretended to be vested in the chief malaam, -or minister, still every objection is overruled in acquiescence with -the will of the sovereign.</p> - -<p>Offenders against the laws are punished according to the estimated -enormity of their crimes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span> by flagellation or imprisonment in irons, -and labour in the fields; but all serious offences, such as those -against the king, murder, and adultery with the wives of superiors, -are punished by death and torture of the most barbarous description. -Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is prepared, with an iron hose -fixed on the end of it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This -spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being suddenly seized, is -placed on his head with his legs or feet upwards. The spike, while -red-hot, is passed into the lower part of his person and the bowels, -and even to the crown of his head.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> This mode of torture is only -resorted to in cases of adultery with the king’s or malaam’s wives. -Sometimes another mode of torture for similar offences is resorted to, -equally barbarous and cruel—that of mutilation, and placing it in the -mouth of the offender.</p> - -<p>After promising to make a longer stay on my return, I marched from -Kallakandi, this being the 31st of July, bearing <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> 22° westward; -during the day’s journey varying from 22° to 5°, 10°, 5°, and 12° -degrees to westward. The country near the town was well cultivated. At -seven miles we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span> crossed a narrow river running eastward; and at twelve -miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This is also a great market for -the sale and purchase of slaves. Here salt is sold, but at a very high -price, though of a very coarse and dirty description.</p> - -<p>The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo or Dibbo. He, however, is -under the directions of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of -this town are about seven thousand in number, and seem a mixture of -many tribes, which is easily detected by the cranium, independent of -the particular marks or scars on the face to distinguish each tribe -from the other. They seem to live in ease and plenty, having little -trouble in cultivating the soil, which here produces four crops in the -year of several sorts of grain.</p> - -<p>We remained here only a short time, when, after making a present of a -pair of small scissors for some water, with which we were presented, -we resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while crossing a swamp of -no great magnitude, we were met by a number of women, heavily laden -with different articles of produce for the market which we had just -left. They were accompanied by several men, who walked in the rear. -The women we found had been much alarmed a minute before, but seemed -still more so at meeting me, some of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span> the younger women endeavouring to -pass into the thick impenetrable bush, which extended about half a mile -along each side of the path. The men also seemed much alarmed, and the -older of them, who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared themselves -for an attack. However, they preferred submission, prostrating -themselves as we passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking -them how they were, they informed us of the extreme danger of passing -any farther, till an enormous snake which they had just met should -retire. They stated that this reptile had taken up his position in a -large tamarind-tree, whence they said he had been in all probability -compelled to retreat after a combat with a panther, which they said -invariably practised one particular mode of attack. Whenever they come -unexpectedly upon one of these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and -thus prevent it from coiling itself round its prey. Then with its claw -it secures the head, which is immediately brought round to release its -tail. However, I never witnessed an attack of this sort, and must leave -my readers to judge of the truth of this assertion. One of the party -offered to go back and show us the enormous snake, and several others -of the party volunteered their services also.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span></p> - -<p>Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred yards, when we arrived at -the velvet tamarind-tree, which they had spoken of, and which was -thickly covered with leaves; but upon examining the tree we could -not observe anything of the nature described. When I was just upon -the point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them, who stood a -little behind my horse, suddenly called out “waroo-waroo,” upon which -one of my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse aside, and to -my amazement the monster was pointed out to me with part of its body -coiled round a bough, and its head and a considerable part of its body -hanging down very near our heads.</p> - -<p>It appeared this reptile had descended the tamarind, and had ascended a -much larger tree of a different description. I immediately dismounted, -and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine, which was heavily charged, -one barrel with swan-shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake -was certainly of enormous dimensions, and remained quite motionless. -I took a steady aim at the neck, just behind its head, and fired the -charge of slugs effectually, though for some time it seemed to have -but a slight effect upon it, for it raised its head, and coiled the -fore-part of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span> body round another branch of the tree; but the -spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose strength, and the tail, -which was coiled round a limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its -fore-part, which hung down towards the ground. I then took my sword, -which I had sharpened equal to a razor, and cut the head off at one -stroke; but even then the people would not venture to touch it with -their hands to pull it down, till I gave them a piece of small cord, -which I invariably carried in my pocket. This was fastened round the -body, and they then succeeded in pulling it down.</p> - -<p>The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured thirty-one feet long, -but the natives told me they had seen them much larger. My gun and -sword excited great astonishment amongst the strangers, who were very -anxious again to hear the noise. They seemed to fancy that it was -the noise which killed the object the muzzle of the gun was directed -towards; this I did not contradict. Here we were detained nearly an -hour, when we again commenced our march, I and my people keeping a -cautious look-out lest some more of our late antagonist’s companions -might be in our immediate neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>We were soon clear of the bush, and our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span> adventure speedily forgotten. -At sixteen miles we arrived at a small kroom, the houses of which were -all built of a circular form, the walls covered with a deep red clay, -and many of the principal houses ornamented with different figures and -hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this kroom is earthen pots of a -superior description and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads, -are also manufactured here, though little tobacco reaches this place; -but I learned that these pipes are sent even to Badagry. Their form is -like the meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very ingenious sort -of lamp, in which palm-oil is used.</p> - -<p>The chief of this kroom had in his possession a pot which attracted my -notice. It was of copper, and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had -been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for many years, but -he could not inform me from whom they had obtained it. There exists -in this neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not larger than -a small English terrier, some of which are here domesticated like the -goat.</p> - -<p>The country also abounds with larger deer of different descriptions, -one of which I this day had the satisfaction of shooting, having -cautiously crept behind a bush very near to him. There were a doe and -fawn of the same description, at a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span> short distance, grazing. This -chance would have supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption -for several days could we have kept it fresh. What we did not require -the first day we broiled in the smoke, and kept it very well for the -second day. This is the method adopted by the natives in drying and -preserving both meat and fish. Even when a human head is desired to -be preserved, the brains are extracted through the spinal connexion -and the head held on the end of a stick in the smoke till it becomes -quite hard and dry. I have seen some thousands preserved in this way in -Dahomey.</p> - -<p>Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous here, and often make awful -havoc amongst the stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions -are employed (some of which would do credit to English ingenuity) to -destroy them. An immense beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in -it, is suspended about seven feet high. This beam rests on a pivot at -each end. When the animal passes under and between the two pivots, -he treads upon a lever which throws the beam off the pivots, and it -falls with full weight on the animal, forcing the spikes their full -length into its body. They have also man-traps of a very singular -construction: these, though simple, are the most efficient I ever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</span> saw. -They are always placed in situations where none but trespassers can -be injured. This trap is generally set in a fence, so that a person -climbing over must come in contact with a certain part of it, which -secures a piece of wood connected with another of about seven feet -long, which latter is bent about two feet out of its natural position. -The slightest touch releases this, and the spring resumes its natural -position in a moment. In doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins -with such violence as frequently to break both legs.</p> - -<p>At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of Ongo, where we found the -chief awaiting our arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with -a number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon perceiving us he immediately -advanced towards us at a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the -others, though on foot. When within a few yards of us the whole -cavalcade suddenly halted, and the chief and his principal officers -dismounted, and all, except himself, prostrated themselves, remaining -in that position till they were told to rise. The chief merely held out -his hand, repeating the words, “Sinou, sinou,” which means, <i>How are -you?—how are you?</i>—and gave my hand a hearty shake, bidding us -welcome to his town. He said he had been made aware of our approach,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</span> -and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared himself glad to see a -white man, Terrasso-weea, he stated, was his particular friend, and had -a white man with him, but not a proper white man like myself. He told -me that Terrasso-weea’s trading party were all good men, and were his -brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans.</p> - -<p>Here we remained to cook some provisions. We were fortunate enough to -obtain in exchange for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small -grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We also got plenty of -water, which was tolerably good, but of a bitterish taste. This is -frequently the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain sort of -wood grows on its margin. Whether this is injurious or not I am not -able to say, as I did not experience any evil effects myself, nor any -of my party, from its use. The country now became delightful, and the -monotony of a dreary plain was relieved at intervals by table mountains -in various directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding nine -thousand feet.</p> - -<p>This place is neatly built for an African town, and with considerable -regularity of formation as regards the market-places for the sale of -different commodities. The houses are very clean, and are ornamented -with various designs, similar to those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</span> I have just described. The -horse, as I have already said, invariably forms a part of the family, -and is treated much better than on the coast, where they are not bred, -but brought from the interior. Even here, however, many of the poor -animals are very lean for want of sufficient food, as they are always -tied by the foot, and are never allowed their liberty.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Ongo—Weariness of my Attendants—Bivouac—Alarm of my Horse at -the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts—Terror of the Natives—Their -Kindness—Establishment for Mahomedan Converts—Singular Custom—My -Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea, who had been present at the Death of -Mungo Park—Loss of my Sand-glass—Its Construction—Adofoodia—The -Market-Place—Reception by the King—Interview with -Terrasso-weea—Ceremony of welcoming me—His Stores—Discovery of -an Old Acquaintance—Narrative of his Adventures—Terrasso-weea’s -House—His Wives—Inquire of him Particulars of the Fate -of Mungo Park—His Relation of the Death of that Intrepid -Traveller—Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of it—Park’s Property seized -by the King—His Despotic Character—Flight of Terrasso-weea—My -Palaver with the King—Hospitality of the Merchant—Information -obtained respecting Timbuctoo—Market of Adofoodia.</p> -</div> - - -<p>After leaving the town of Ongo we were met by several women carrying -fowls and water yams. Some of these we were fortunate enough to -purchase, in exchange for some needles and thimbles. We had now an -excellent stock of provision, and we kept the fowls alive till we -should require them for consumption. My poor fellows began to complain -much of sore feet and fatigue, telling me that “black master only -want man go long way when he make war one day;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</span> but white man make -poor black man walk plenty every day till him belly sore; then soon -black man die.” No doubt my poor fellows were extremely tired, as I -was myself, though I rode more than half the distance. I felt much for -them, and sometimes showed them the wound on my leg, and asked them how -they could complain when a white man, and in their hot country, could -stand the march with such a wound; but their reply was invariably, -“White man different to black man; <i>black man lie down and die, -suppose his leg bad like mine</i>.”</p> - -<p>At thirty-three miles I proposed to encamp for the night. This proposal -was readily assented to by my tired companions. We accordingly selected -a convenient spot at some little distance from the path, where we -kindled a fire, having plenty of wood close at hand. We soon prepared a -good mess, and having also cut some grass for my horse, and given him a -few heads of corn, which we had saved from the previous night, we all -began, like the natives, to eat at the same table, and in a short time -fell fast asleep. Having left a good fire, we were not afraid of wild -beasts approaching us while the fire continued to burn brightly, but -serpents are very apt to come where there is fire. In fact, the natives -often make large fires for the purpose of attracting a certain species -of snake,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</span> which, when the fire is extinguished, feast greedily on the -ashes.</p> - -<p>Though snakes did not trouble us, we were, however, about midnight, -suddenly alarmed by the snorting and pawing of my horse, who actually -bit my foot, to which he was tied, purposely to awaken me. To our great -surprise we found that the horse’s alarm had been caused by a large -species of wolf, which had no doubt been attracted by the smell of the -horse, which had observed it prowling in our immediate neighbourhood; -there it still remained, making at intervals most tremendous howls. I -fired off one of my pistols; after which we heard no more of him, but -took our position nearer to the fire. I was soon compelled to change -my position, however, for my horse having a propensity for scratching -the fire abroad, scraped some of the fire amongst us, burning some of -our clothes. Notwithstanding this we were again soon asleep, and had a -tolerably good rest until day-break.</p> - -<p>I now found one of my Sierra Leone men shivering violently from great -fatigue, the heavy dew, and the considerable quantity of rain which -had also fallen in the former part of the night. I felt rather chilly -myself, and sick at the stomach, but dared not let my men know it, lest -they should be disheartened. I gave the poor fellow some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</span> quinine, and -also took some myself. In an hour afterwards I gave him some James’s -powder, and twenty drops of Battley’s sedative of opium, which soon -caused him to throw out a copious perspiration, and the shivering -entirely ceased. Owing to this circumstance we did not commence our -journey till we had breakfasted. Having a small calabash of native -honey, which we had carried with us in case of illness, I put a portion -of it in some hot water, but having no meal we were obliged to use -water and honey alone. This materially aided the medicine in promoting -perspiration, and we were soon all right again.</p> - -<p>On the 1st of August we again resumed our journey, bearing <abbr title="north">N.</abbr>, and -varying during this day’s journey to 10° towards <abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, in expectation -of soon seeing our long-wished-for friend. This morning’s march -seemed rather irksome, as we proceeded full ten miles without meeting -any person of whom to inquire which was the right path; and several -by-paths communicating with the direct one, we were not aware which -to select. Fortunately we had taken the right path, by choosing the -one apparently most beaten, as we found by inquiry of a party whom we -overtook at the crossing of a path, resting under the shade of a large -tree. They seemed much alarmed, and several of them fled, leaving -behind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</span> them the loads they were carrying to market; but when they -found that we were friends, they soon returned, and seemed pleased to -find that we were not robbers, as they at first took us to be.</p> - -<p>We sat down under the tree, and entered into conversation, when we -ascertained that this party were going in the same direction as -ourselves, to a town some few miles distant. The principal of their -load were yams and manioc, kolla-nuts and ground beans, plantains -and bananas, the latter of which one old woman ventured to ask my -interpreter if I would partake of, which of course I readily accepted; -and she also gave my men some each. In return I gave her a paper -of needles. The rest of the party were then anxious to make me a -<i>dash</i>, as they call it, upon the same conditions; but as we had -now sufficient, we declined to accept of any more. We soon resumed our -journey, marching in single file. The women, as they went along, began -singing a song, to which they all kept good time. This seemed to give -fresh animation to my men, and we went along for a short time as gaily -as if we had been in the Dahoman kingdom.</p> - -<p>At thirteen miles, we arrived at a small town, or kroom, where there is -a large establishment, a sort of convent or residence, for Mahomedan -converts, who have either voluntarily or compulsorily<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</span> renounced the -Pagan worship. These individuals are never suffered to come outside -of the walls till they have strictly conformed in every particular -with the Mahomedan religion for the space of thirteen moons, when they -are set at liberty, so far as to enjoy the privileges of the other -inhabitants; but should they attempt to leave the country for any other -kingdom, and be captured any time afterwards, they are sure to be put -to death. These individuals are all distinguished by a certain mark, -which is cut on the face, in addition to the mark of the tribe to which -they belong.</p> - -<p>A singular form exists in passing by this establishment. All persons -must walk past on their bare feet, or if they wear sandals, they must -take them off while they pass; and if riding on horseback, or carried -in any other way, they must dismount and walk; nor must they look back -till quite past the prescribed mark, when the passersby are again -allowed to mount and proceed. All traders carrying a certain quantity -of goods are obliged to pay a toll or duty, which goes towards the -support of this establishment. Any evasion or breach of these rules -is punished by flagellation and forfeiture of the whole of the goods -in their possession. We were not allowed to enter, but every inquiry -respecting the establishment was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</span> answered; but whether the account -given was true or false, I am unable to determine.</p> - -<p>The inmates are permitted to work at their trade, whatever it may be, -and are allowed the price of their labour, besides their subsistence -while they are within the walls. They are constantly attended by -priests, who visit the towns and markets within a certain distance, -and there levy contributions upon all articles of consumption, as well -as a duty which they demand upon cloths and ornaments, for the support -of their establishment. No doubt a great share of this sort of plunder -falls to themselves. Our company of trading-women left us here.</p> - -<p>After partaking of some refreshment we again marched. No man could -experience more anxiety than I did myself during this part of my -journey; for the next town we reached would decide the success of the -object I had in view. Many were the doubts and fears that assailed -me. Sometimes I thought Terrasso-weea might have gone on, and have -taken another direction; and again, even if he were there, perhaps my -information at Abomey respecting Mungo Park might be incorrect, and -Terrasso-weea might know nothing of the circumstances about which I -was interested. At other times my spirits were buoyed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</span> up with the -idea of seeing the white man, as he was represented to be. But, again, -the thought of returning to Dahomey, and of incurring the King’s -displeasure, who had been my best friend, and perhaps, also, of being -instrumental in causing the caboceer of my guard, an excellent man, -to lose his head, oppressed me. However, to balance this trouble, I -had the consolation of having visited a country which I should not -otherwise have seen; for even if I should survive the climate and -dangers incident to travellers in so barbarous a country, I might not -again have an opportunity of visiting it.</p> - -<p>While thus absorbed in varied reflections I had forgotten my -sand-glass, by which I measured the distance we marched, but my poor -fellows had been long accustomed to call out the number of quarters, or -glasses, which I caused every man to do aloud immediately after myself. -My glass was of a very simple construction. I took two small phials, -which had contained peppermint essence, which had been given to me -by an American captain. I measured my sand by time; then, when I had -ascertained the proper quantity, I poured out the remainder from the -opposite phial, and again secured the piece of tin between the mouths -of the phials, sealing them both together<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</span> hermetically, and fixing -them lengthwise into a piece of palm stem, hollowed out on one side, -leaving one side of the phials exposed. This allowed me to observe -when the glass was run out. The moment we halted any where I slipped -the string, which was attached to each end, and hung about my neck, a -little round, so as to place the glasses in a horizontal position, and -stop their running until I again commenced marching.</p> - -<p>On our journey we overtook numbers of people, the female portion of -whom were all heavily laden with goods for the market of Adofoodia. -Some we met returning, who had already been there and disposed of their -goods. Even these people were aware of our coming, and informed us -that the King had told his people that I should be there some time in -the forenoon. This was considered by his subjects as an act of great -condescension on his part, as affording them an opportunity of seeing a -white man—a sight they had never witnessed.</p> - -<p>At twenty-eight miles we arrived at the anxiously-wished-for town of -Adofoodia, which is situated on a dry healthy plain, with a rich red -soil, the surface of a sandy nature, as if it had been carried over the -surface by water, at some remote period. We were met by the King and -his principal men,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</span> at a little distance from the outer gates. This -town is unlike many others; for it is not fenced with the prickly bush -I have before mentioned, though it is partially enclosed by clumps of -large shrubs, mixed with cotton and palm-trees.</p> - -<p>The town is surrounded by a very thick clay wall, about eighteen feet -high. The outer market is held in a large open space on the left after -entering the southern gate. It is shaded with large trees, having -leaves measuring nine inches across, and about twelve in length. As -soon as we entered the market thousands came running anxious to see -us, which would inevitably have caused great confusion, had royal -power not been exercised to maintain order. We had already told the -King our principal object in visiting his country. He had the courtesy -immediately to take us to that part of the market (which was some -distance) where Terrasso-weea had his goods laid out on large square -pieces of carpet, evidently of European manufacture, though of a -pattern I had never before seen.</p> - -<p>At a few yards from this spot we were desired to halt, and the King’s -chief messenger was sent forward to acquaint Terrasso-weea with our -arrival. However, he had been already made aware of the fact, and -had retired to his quarters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</span> to change his tobe. The messenger soon -arrived, accompanied by Terrasso-weea, who prostrated himself before -the King, who was on my right and a little in advance. The King -politely informed him that he had taken upon himself to introduce to -him a stranger who had come to see him from a far country. Whereupon -the merchant again prostrated himself and kissed the ground. Then he -arose and walked slowly towards me, holding out his hand with a smile -of satisfaction beaming in his venerable countenance. He said he was -truly happy to see me. It was, he said, the second time he had seen a -white man in the course of his life. The merchant took from a leather -wallet, or spohran, hanging in front of his dress, similar to that of -a Highlander of Scotland, a small book written in Persian-Arabic. From -this he read some form of welcome. He then begged the King’s leave to -depart, which his Majesty, with every show of politeness, agreed to, at -the same time remarking that it was his right to have the first of my -company, being the principal object of my journey. After a little time -he should certainly claim the privilege of a palaver with the white man.</p> - -<p>We were then desired by the merchant to follow him. He first led us -to his stalls in the market, by the side of one of which was seated, -cross-legged,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</span> a dark swarthy man, but not much darker than some of -the Spaniards residing at Whydah. I was struck with the expression and -quick intelligent eye of this man, and could not help fancying that I -had seen the same individual at some previous period. The man eyed me -for some minutes with great interest, and at last suddenly advanced -towards me, holding out both his hands, and clasping his arms round -waist.</p> - -<p>I did not much relish this sort of embrace from a stranger; but, by -his expression, I could observe that the salute was friendly. He -then passed his hands down each side, pressing my person gently, in -a similar manner to the searchers in the docks. Then he explained -himself, to my great though agreeable surprise. He proved to be a -merchant whom I met with when we were at the town of Egga with the late -unfortunate Niger expedition. He was then accompanied by another man, -and was on a trading tour from Rabba, attending the market at Egga. I -was invited by the malaam of Egga to dine with him, for he invites all -strangers to take refreshment. It was in his house that I met these -two individuals, who seemed quite delighted to meet me. They stated -themselves to be natives of Tripoli.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</span></p> - -<p>This man possessed great intelligence, and seemed anxious to afford any -information likely to be interesting to me. He informed me that his -companion was still at Rabba, trading from thence to Bornou. He was -himself employed by Terrasso-weea. While thus engaged in conversation, -a tall fine-looking man advanced towards us, with a very pleasing and -expressive smile on his countenance. To my great astonishment, this man -made me a bow, and addressed me, first in Spanish and then in English.</p> - -<p>I can scarcely remember any occurrence in my lifetime that gave me, for -the moment, more pleasure than this; such an incident being so little -anticipated by me in a region so distant from civilized intercourse. -This poor fellow gave me a brief but interesting account of himself, -which I here set down in as few words as possible. He was a native of -Bornou, but, in the wars, was taken and sold as a slave. From one party -to another he was disposed of, till he was brought to Whydah, where -he remained some months, and was well treated. He was then shipped -from thence to Bahia, and remained there as a slave for the space of -twenty-one years. During ten years of that period he was principal or -head cook to the firm of Boothby and Johnston, of Liverpool.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</span></p> - -<p>When I told him I was well acquainted with Liverpool, he seemed quite -delighted, and expressed great anxiety to accompany me thither. He -spoke very highly of his former masters, and of the time of his -bondage as the happiest days of his life. I asked him how he came to -leave them. He informed me that he was liberated at the emancipation -of slaves held by British subjects, and that the early dreams of his -childhood were still so strongly imprinted on his memory that he -preferred visiting his birth-place to remaining a hired servant in -Bahia. Well, he returned in a Brazilian schooner to Whydah, where he -was landed, and there fell in with several of his acquaintances of -Bahia.</p> - -<p>At Whydah he remained some months, then went to the Yarriba country, -and after some months arrived at his native town. But now the spell -was broken, and all his happy dreams of more than twenty years had -vanished. His native town had twice been burnt down by the enemy, -and was chiefly inhabited by strangers from a far country. He was -now an obscure stranger, and looked upon with suspicion, and his -long-cherished home was to him a desolate waste. With a lonely heart, -he again turned from the place, and when on his journey, intending to -return to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</span> coast, and to Bahia if possible, he happened to meet -Terrasso-weea, at a town where he was trading. He was readily employed, -and had since travelled a great deal in different directions with his -master, whom he described to be an excellent man. Before leaving my -friend I ought to mention that he wrote his name, and described in -Spanish the time he remained in slavery, and also the names of Boothby -and Johnston. The date of his liberation is also noted. I have this -paper still in my possession.</p> - -<p>To return to Terrasso-weea, who had retired to a short distance as soon -as my Bahia friend had entered into conversation with me. Observing a -pause in our conversation he again came up to me, and shewed me all -his goods in the market. He had a great number of carriers, who convey -the goods on their heads. This was the only place where I had seen the -camel used for burden since leaving Tangiers. Terrasso-weea had eight -of these animals, besides a great number of men.</p> - -<p>The afternoon was now far advanced, and in consequence of my presence -Terrasso-weea ordered all his goods to be taken into his stores; so -that an opportunity might be afforded my friends, as well as himself, -of a palaver with a white man. Terrasso-weea<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</span> then invited me to his -house, which was always occupied by some of his wives and an agent, -whether he were present or not. His dwelling and those of his domestics -formed a quadrangle of considerable extent. His own apartment was -richly ornamented with various rude designs, painted in different -colours upon the walls. Curiously carved stools were placed around the -apartment, and a clay couch, which was covered with several finely -worked mats of varied colours, over which was a richly worked native -wove cloth, bordered with a fringe of red and yellow silk. He was less -scrupulous than most Africans as regards the introduction of his wives, -though probably more with a view to gratify their curiosity than my -own. Some of them were considered as very handsome Africans, although -they varied very much in colour. A great many of them were Bornouese.</p> - -<p>After drinking water with the merchant, I handed him the paper -entrusted to me by the Mahomedan priest at Abomey. Upon this he -immediately started to his feet, and seemed almost frantic with joy. At -the receipt of the epistle, which was written in the Persian-Arabic, I -availed myself of this opportunity to inform him of my object in coming -to this country: but the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</span> perusal of the note had already made him -aware that the object of my inquiry was to learn something respecting -the fate of the lamented Mungo Park. He said he was anxious to give me -all the information in his power respecting the death of that intrepid -traveller. His account I shall here narrate as nearly as possible as he -related it to me.</p> - -<p>Terrasso-weea stated, that when he was a young man and living in -Yaouri, with the king of that place, as third malaam, or priest, a very -tall white man came down the great river Joleeba, having a very large -canoe, the centre covered over with matting in the form of a tent. He -was accompanied by several black men, and had one sheep and several -goats, with a few fowls, in the canoe, which they carried with them -for food. Amongst the crew was one man, a native of the neighbourhood -of Yaouri, whose name was Amadi Fatuma. This man had accompanied Mungo -Park from a town at a considerable distance higher up the river, -where he had gone with a trading caravan. As soon as this man arrived -at Yaouri, his native place, he of course left the canoe, but had -previously received payment. This cunning fellow advised Park to stop -at Yaouri to purchase some necessary provisions, declaring that he -could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</span> procure them cheaper by his assistance. Park accordingly went on -shore, and was introduced to the King, who supplied him with what he -required for subsistence, for which he paid him his full demand.</p> - -<p>Soon after he retired to his canoe, to prepare for sailing; but on -his way, one of the King’s messengers overtook him, stating that -Amadi Fatuma had complained to the King that <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Park had not paid -him any wages, nor had he given him any thing as a dash; and that the -King had sent officers to detain Park till the demand was paid. Park -indignantly denied the truth of this assertion, and determined not to -yield to the imposition, but immediately stepped on board his canoe, -accompanied by the party who had been with him on shore. He desired -the messenger to return, and bring Amadi Fatuma to make his claim in -person. Amadi did return, accompanied by the malaam priest, that is, -the chief of the priesthood, Terrasso-weea being already present. He -then in person boldly demanded his wages, declaring that he had not -been paid according to his agreement, although all Park’s people stated -they saw him paid a great deal more than was agreed. Terrasso-weea says -he is doubtful whether the King, who was a despotic tyrant, had not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</span> -encouraged or urged Amadi to make his dishonest demand, for many people -believed the white man’s tale.</p> - -<p>However, the King’s orders were directed to be enforced; and when -Park’s people were in the act of loosening the painter of the canoe, -which was made fast to a stump of a tree, or a post driven into the -bank for that purpose, one of the King’s officers seized hold of the -gunwale of the canoe to detain it, when Park, with a sabre, at one blow -cut the officer’s hand off. This exasperated the natives, who raised a -continuous yell, and at the same time threw a number of stones into the -canoe. Whereupon Park fired many times into the crowd, killing several -and wounding many.</p> - -<p>It was not till then that a general attack was made, for many of the -people were in favour of Park, if they had dared to show it. Soon -after the attack Park was killed, or at least mortally wounded, so -that he died soon after he was taken into the presence of the King, -who pretended to feel regret that the charge had not been paid without -resorting to such a measure. Nearly all who were in the canoe were -killed or mortally wounded. Park with his own hands fired the guns, -while the others were loading the several muskets in their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</span> possession. -The arms used by the natives were bows and spears.</p> - -<p>Terrasso-weea was during the whole time an eyewitness of this scene, -and he declares it to be his opinion, that had Park, after severing the -hand, pushed off his canoe, and proceeded down the river, he might have -got off without any more injury than the pelting with the stones. I -questioned him respecting the falls represented to have been the cause -of his canoe upsetting; but he declared that there are no such falls -as to impede in any way the navigation of a canoe of any size for more -than two hundred miles higher up; but merely a rapid current passing -between some large boulders of granite, between which he had himself -passed nearly the number of days in two moons.</p> - -<p>He further stated in reply to questions from me, that Park was taken -out of his canoe alive, but would not speak when taken before the King. -All the property in the canoe was claimed by the King, and some of it -distributed in presents to his courtiers. Terrasso-weea was presented -with a small box, which, by his description, was either a tobacco-box -and stopper, or a snuff-box and tooth-pick, but I should suppose the -former.</p> - -<p>I made minute inquiry respecting his papers, and was informed that -about twenty-six moons after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</span> the occurrence, a white man came from -Tripoli and purchased some large papers with crooked lines and much -of writing upon them. These papers were secured in a long metal tube. -I asked if he were not mistaken in the man who purchased the papers -coming from Tripoli, and whether it was not from Constantinople. -At this question, the merchant seemed a little offended, and again -asserted that the man came from Tripoli. He said he purchased the -papers at a high price, and when he had departed, a messenger was sent -after him by the King to recall him, when another demand was made upon -him, equal to the first payment before he was allowed to depart.</p> - -<p>The other books in Park’s possession were sold in parts to the -different priests and malaams, to make into amulets, which consist -of slips of the paper rolled up hard, and sewn into a piece of -fancy-coloured and stitched leather, and are suspended by a neatly -plaited or twisted thong of goat-skin round the neck. He believed that -some amulets had been carried more than two hundred leagues, or sixty -days’ journey. I asked him how he came to leave the service of the -King of Yaouri. In reply he told me that he had been six years without -receiving any pay, and had ventured to solicit<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</span> part payment, when -the King told him that his insolence deserved death, which punishment -he would certainly inflict, threatening the same fate to the priest -I had seen at Abomey. Upon this threat, the two priests determined -on making their escape, which they with difficulty effected; and had -they not been in favour with the people, and the King disliked for his -barbarity, their escape would have been impossible.</p> - -<p>Having some pecuniary means they retreated to the kingdom of -Bornou, where they remained for some years, living in the capacity -of priests, and there they gained the favour of the sheik or king; -but, unfortunately, the country becoming involved in war, and their -master beheaded, they were compelled again to retreat, and ever since -had been travelling as merchants, sometimes remaining four or five -moons in one town. Terrasso-weea was also a dealer in slaves, when -it suited his purpose. The goods in which he traded were chiefly -Bornou ornaments—armlets, bracelets, and anklets, very heavy and -richly chased or carved; native razors and beads, cloths of various -manufacture and colours, various-coloured tobes, and neatly carved -wooden bowls, bows and arrows, some brass rods, no doubt of European -manufacture.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</span></p> - -<p>During our conversation my friend, the Bahia cook, seemed very anxious -to ask some questions. I could not help admiring the difference between -the sagacious behaviour of this man and that of his uncivilized -brethren around him. He asked me a great many questions respecting -Boothby and Johnston, and begged me to call on the firm, and deliver -certain messages on my return to England. He intended to embrace -the first opportunity of returning to Whydah, where he had some -acquaintances, for he was not now comfortable, being entirely shut -out from the civilized world. If he could only hear of any of his old -master’s family being still alive in Liverpool, he would yet endeavour -to get a passage thither.<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> The King had sent provision to us, -and our host had also furnished us with more than a sufficiency; my -excellent friend the cook begging to perform the cooking, declaring -that it did his heart good to wait on a white man, but more especially -an Englishman.</p> - -<p>My friend and old acquaintance, the Tripoli man, seemed anxious to -learn something of the steamers composing the Niger expedition. It -appeared that he was quite acquainted with the disastrous fate of that -expedition, and also with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</span> the abandonment of the model farm, which -he says he himself visited after he saw me at Egga. He says that the -natives regretted much the abandonment of the farm, but the people -are still in hopes of our again returning to trade with them. So that -though the lives of many good men were sacrificed, the expedition has -excited an inclination to trade, which must always be the leading means -of civilization.</p> - -<p>The King now sent his messengers to ask if I had finished my palaver, -as he wished me and the merchant to pay him a visit at his palace. -Thither we accompanied the messenger, and found his Majesty seated -cross-legged on a square piece of Turkey carpet. He had two large brass -pans beside him, without any contents, consequently I suppose they were -merely used as ornaments. He had two of his principals sitting close by -him; these were his principal malaams. Upon my approach he rose from -his position, and shook hands with me, and then reseated himself on a -low, richly-carved stool, the malaams each nursing a leg on their lap.</p> - -<p>The sun was now set, and this interview was by torch-light. The King -asked a great many questions about the sovereign of my country, and -when told that the monarch was a woman he seemed confounded. He next -asked me if she had many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</span> husbands, and when I told him that she had -only one, he shrunk up his shoulders. He then inquired if she went out -to war in person. In fact, his inquiries were endless. Our palaver -lasted about an hour, at the end of which we were allowed to retire.</p> - -<p>We returned to the house of the merchant, where we had supper, and -were afterwards accommodated with a comfortable mat and cloth to sleep -upon. I slept very soundly, and did not awake till aroused by the noise -of people getting their goods ready for the market. There are several -markets in this town, consequently they are held on different days. I -arose, and the Bahia cook had prepared some delicious dishes for my -breakfast. The poor fellow seemed quite delighted to attend to my wants.</p> - -<p>At breakfast I ate by myself, the merchant preferring other dishes. -I made inquiry respecting the distance to Timbuctoo. He said that he -had come from Timbuctoo in ten days, by commencing his journey before -the sun, and travelling all day, only stopping to eat once. I found -by comparing the day’s journey that he had come from the Dabadab -Mountains. Thirty miles was about his day’s journey. He described -Timbuctoo as not nearly so large as Adofoodia, and that it was only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</span> -remarkable as a mart for the exchange of goods as being convenient for -that purpose. It is a great salt market, but has no manufacture.</p> - -<p>The natives are chiefly employed in loading and unloading goods for the -different traders, who assemble here to meet the various caravans and -canoes, which arrive there at certain periods. A high duty is imposed -upon every article of trade carried thither, in consequence of which -great disturbance has been caused of late years, by the merchants -refusing to pay it. Timbuctoo is described as being a considerable -distance from the Joleeba, or Niger, up a tributary stream. -Terrasso-weea informed me, as also the Tripoli merchant, that there are -thirty-six branches or tributary rivers. All of these within one league -run into the Niger, or Joleeba, near the Timbuctoo branch. Adofoodia is -as large as Abomey, and its trade nearly equal in native merchandise. -It is by observation, in latitude 13° 6ʹ <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> and by reckoning 1° 3ʹ East -longitude.</p> - -<p>The market at Adofoodia is well supplied with nearly every article -already mentioned, except tobacco, which I did not observe. Slaves -are here sold in great numbers. During my stroll round the town I was -followed by dense crowds of people wherever I went. Upon my return to -my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</span> quarters, I was visited by the King, who expressed a wish to see me -fire out of my gun.</p> - -<p>To gratify his curiosity I shot a pigeon which was flying past. This -excited great surprise. He sent me a head of cowries to treat my men on -my return to Dahomey. I had now only a few knives left, two of which -I gave him, as well as some needles. I also gave some presents to my -other kind friends, with whom I felt myself quite at home. They pressed -me hard to stop another day, but circumstances would not permit me, and -after being furnished with another head of cowries by Terrasso-weea, -we marched on our return for the Kong Mountains, during which nothing -very extraordinary occurred further than a slight fever; and on the -13th August, in the evening, we once more, to my great joy, arrived at -Baffo, where I found my guard and the captain almost in despair.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> I have, since my return, called on the firm of Messrs. -Boothby and Johnston, and found this story perfectly correct. His old -masters gave him an excellent character.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Return to Baffo—Anxiety of my Caboceer—Rejoicings for my Return—Our -March—Fine Plain—Plants—Neutral Ground—Natives of the Dassa -Mountains—Agriculture—The Annagoos, dangerous Enemies—Poisoned -Arrows—Poisonous Plants—Alarm of my Attendants on my plucking -it—Fatal Effects of this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives—Number -of the Natives blind, supposed to be the result of it—Unsuccessful -Attack on them by the Dahomans—Spiral Rocks—Hostile Demeanour -of the Natives—They follow us with Menaces—Some Account -of these Mountaineers, and of the Dassa Mountains—The Blue -Eagle—Cataracts—Beautiful Plain—One of my Cases of Rum broken by -a Carrier—Twisted Marble of Variegated Colours—Path covered with -Pepper-trees—Monkeys—Logazohy—Mayho’s Town—The Caboceer—The -Merchants—Their Names—Carelessness with respect to Fire—Visit of -the Caboceer.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I was told by some of my people whom I had left at Baffo, that the -captain or caboceer had almost starved himself, having for some days -after my march from Baffo to the Fellattah country refused food. He -expressed his certain belief that in the event of his returning without -me to Abomey he should lose his head. The character of the Dahoman -is proverbial for being easily depressed, and as easily elevated. I -was certainly a very welcome<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</span> sight to all my people whom I had left -at Baffo. Immediately after my arrival a messenger was despatched to -Abomey to acquaint the King with my return. He had sent a messenger -daily to Baffo to ascertain whether any tidings had been obtained of -my safety. These communications were kept up by a number of messengers -stationed at intervals between Abomey and Baffo. After a short palaver, -in which my motives for clandestinely leaving Baffo were condemned by -them and justified by myself, I broached one of the rum kegs I had left -at Baffo when I left for the Dabadab Mountains, and gave each of my -people a dram. This soon settled all differences, and in a short time -the merry dance succeeded to doubts and extreme anxiety.</p> - -<p>The whole of the following day, August 14th, was spent in rejoicing, -drinking peto, and dancing; and early on the following morning -arrangements were made for marching on our return to Abomey. My -excellent old friend Kpatchie, the caboceer of Zoglogbo, who had spent -the evening with us, was again at Baffo by day-break, with a guard -of one hundred men to accompany me on the first part of my journey. -The caboceer of Baffo, Agassadoo, had also one hundred men ready to -accompany me, making in all, with my own people, three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</span> hundred armed -men. My men, who accompanied me on my journey to Adofoodia, through the -excessive fatigue which they had undergone and too freely indulging on -the previous night, were so completely worn out and feverish, that it -was arranged to leave them to their own discretion to return to Abomey -by the nearest route; but with orders not to be later than ourselves in -arriving in the capital.</p> - -<p>With great satisfaction to myself and the Dahoman soldiers, we now -commenced our march for the town of Logazohy, bearing N.N.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr> Our -march was across a fine plain, partly cultivated, with a crescent of -mountains, called the Dassa Mountains, to the south and west. This -valley, or plain, is well watered by small streams and springs of -various qualities, and the surface of the soil is of a sandy clay. -In crossing it I observed many different species of bulbous plants, -of the flag tribe, which I had not noticed previously in any part of -Africa I had yet visited; some of their blossoms or flowers appeared -very much like the breast of a partridge in colour, and resembled in -shape and texture the wing of the dragon-fly. A certain distance from -Baffo, after emerging into the plain, is considered neutral ground -between the Annagoos and Mahees, the former occupying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</span> the whole of -the chain of the Dassa Mountains, and denouncing all intercourse with -their neighbours on either side of the mountains. They are consequently -deficient in every article of European manufacture, possessed by -their trading neighbours. They are contented, however, with their own -resources, and, according to the old adage, that necessity is the -mother of invention, they are considered much more ingenious than their -rival neighbours. They are also good farmers, and like the Mahees -and Dahomans, in the vicinity of their own towns, they hold farms by -hereditary right, a method which does not exist in any part of the West -Coast. There, generally, after one man has obtained a single crop from -any piece of land, he is too indolent to follow up cultivation for a -second, and consequently the ground is either left to be overrun with -spontaneous vegetation, or to be taken possession of by another party.</p> - -<p>The Annagoos of the Dassa mountains are considered dangerous enemies, -although by no means distinguished for their valour or gallantry, but -on account of their superior skill in the manufacture of different -poisons. Perhaps the opinion entertained of these people may arise -from superstition, but it is certain that a plant from which the -strongest poison is extracted grows in abundance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</span> at the base of these -mountains, and that with this the poison for their arrows is prepared. -This plant grows about eight feet high, has a round stem about the -thickness of a man’s thigh, and is of a greenish grey colour. Its stems -are fluted triangularly, and shoot from the main trunk at regular -intervals. The stems or major branches also send forth minor ones -bearing a resemblance and proportion to the horns of a species of deer -or antelope abundant in this country. It is of the cactus tribe, and -the whole is of a fleshy nature, but quite smooth and without prickles, -growing almost without soil on the bare surface of the granite rock, -and receiving nourishment from its long fleshy roots, which run in -different directions, till they find some narrow fracture or crevice, -into which they insert themselves. Their growth is very rapid.</p> - -<p>I had been cautioned by my Dahoman caboceer, early in the morning -previous to our marching, not to touch either a flower or a shrub of -any description, or even pick up a pebble, as I had been in the habit -of doing when I observed any thing new on my journey. I took little -heed of this wholesome injunction, supposing that his motives were -merely to prevent any delay on the road, as the day was likely to be -rainy. Upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</span> observing a succession of this plant, as I rode along, I -carelessly laid hold of and broke off a portion of the stem of one, -which was extremely brittle. A yell was instantly raised amongst my -soldiers, and in a moment it was snatched out of my hand, and thrown a -considerable distance from the path, while another soldier seized my -horse’s head and pulled it on one side from the plant.</p> - -<p>Upon inquiring the cause of such an unceremonious proceeding, I was -assured, that I had run into extreme danger myself, as well as all -those near my person, as this plant was the most deadly poison to -be found in that country, and that even the vapour from a fracture -or wound in the stem or any other part of it, from which a milky -liquid almost in a stream exudes, which comes in contact with the -eye, invariably causes total blindness, and death immediately any -particle of the juice comes in contact with the blood. Be this as it -may, I certainly observed in Logazohy and some neighbouring krooms an -extraordinary number of blind persons, as well as blind dogs, which -naturally excited my curiosity. I thought that this was occasioned by -the ravages of the small-pox, but I observed that many were totally -blind where no signs of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</span> small-pox were visible, (though this disease -is very prevalent here as well as in all the neighbouring kingdoms to -the north and east of these mountains,) but upon inquiry, I found that -the blindness was attributed to coming in contact with this plant.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<p>None but the inhabitants of the Dassa mountains, it is said, can safely -make use of this plant. It was also stated to me, that three years -ago, when an attempt was made upon a certain large town, on one of -these mountains, the inhabitants poisoned the waters which ran near the -Dahoman camp, from which the besiegers obtained their supplies, and in -consequence, that some thousands of the Dahoman army perished in the -most excruciating agony. On this account the siege was abandoned. No -other attempt has ever since been made to take this town, though wells -might be dug and water obtained with very little trouble, for springs -are numerous and copious in this neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>Previous to our arrival at the mountain-pass which divides the -crescent, through which we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</span> marched in crossing this range of -mountains, we passed many singularly formed spiral rocks, upon some -of which were resting immense blocks of the same material, placed -horizontally. Upon several of these apparently dangerous precipices, -men were perched, and even dogs with them, each man armed with bow and -arrow, watching us as we passed. At the moment I was quite unaware of -their motive for watching us so narrowly, and concluded that it was -merely the curiosity of seeing us as we passed, but we had not gone -more than a very short distance before I found out their motive. These -selfish people, besides shunning all intercourse with other tribes, -will not allow even a pebble, or any thing dead or alive, not <i>even -a serpent</i>, to be carried into another country. Not being made -acquainted with this circumstance, (though I had been cautioned without -any reason being assigned by my caboceer,) I asked one of my private -servants to pick up a piece of stone of an unusual appearance. As soon -as this was observed by them, a Dassa bowman ran up nearly alongside of -me, raising several hideous yells, accompanied with menacing gestures. -I did not know their language, and the Dahomans only understood what -was meant by the bowman’s motions directing me to give up the stone. -His<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</span> yell brought in less than five minutes many hundreds of men and -boys, all armed with bows and arrows, many of whom had their arrows -already resting on the string. My caboceer, who had now placed himself -alongside of my horse, reminded me of the caution he had given me.</p> - -<p>The Dassa people were still advancing alongside of us, continuing their -hideous yells. Observing this, I asked the meaning of their following -us, and was told that they were singing the stranger’s praise, but -their gestures and menacing attitudes convinced me that it was not so, -though to drown the noise, my own people began a song in praise of -the “king’s stranger,” as they called me. At last one of the Dahomans -admitted, that, although he was unacquainted with their language, he -was certain the Dassa people were cursing us. Upon this I remonstrated -with the caboceer upon his suffering them to follow us in such a -menacing manner, and begged him to order the additional guard to load -their pieces, and give our pursuers a volley. He assured me that their -pieces had been loaded previous to our leaving Baffo, and that each -man had three bullets in his musket. He declared that he should like -to give them a volley, which he knew would soon disperse them, but -that the King had given him orders not on any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</span> account to commence -hostilities, except in the event of an attack, and then to retaliate -immediately with all his force.</p> - -<p>This was doubtless a more prudent course than I could at that moment -reconcile myself to, having already experienced the advantage of taking -the first step in an affray with Africans, but afterwards the King -of Dahomey argued the injustice of a first attack, as we were only -intruders in the Dassa territory, and had not come there to make war. I -had my carbine and both pistols heavily charged with slugs, and could -willingly have made the Dassa bowmen a present of a few when they first -came up alongside of me, had the caboceer allowed me.</p> - -<p>After accompanying us two miles in the manner I have described, that -is, till we reached the neutral ground on the <abbr title="north">N.</abbr> <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> side of the -mountains, they suddenly turned back towards their homes. My fine -old friend Kpatchie, and also the caboceer of Baffo, soon afterwards -left us to return to their respective abodes. It now came on to rain -heavily, rendering the path, which is of a light clay, extremely -slippery.</p> - -<p>Before leaving the natives of the Dassa mountains, it may not be -uninteresting to make a few observations respecting them. For -generations<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</span> they have inhabited this range of mountains, though they -have been on several occasions disturbed by enemies, who however -have always been repulsed with loss. Their mountains are extremely -difficult of access; and, unlike any of their neighbours, they take the -precaution to preserve sufficient food for some months, in case of a -besieging force coming against them. This precaution, and the supply of -water from the mountain springs, enables them to withstand the force -and skill of any enemy. They speak a language quite distinct from that -of the neighbouring tribes, one instance of the inaccuracy of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Crowther’s assertion that all the tribes inhabiting the Kong Mountains, -from the Niger to the Ashantee country, speak the same language.</p> - -<p>I had several Yarriba and Houssa men with me, all of whom declared that -they could not speak the Dassa language. These mountaineers are selfish -and revengeful in the extreme, and are considered great cowards, for -they depend chiefly upon the chances of poisoning their enemy. They -are numerous on account of their never disposing of their slaves, and -polygamy is, as in most African kingdoms, allowed to any extent. Their -towns (those at least which we saw) were large and well-peopled, and -their position judiciously selected for defence.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</span> They do not keep -their cattle in herds on the plains, like their neighbours, but on the -mountains, which have more vegetation than most of the Mahee mountains -of the same height. They are great farmers and hunters. Regular markets -of exchange are established with one another. It is said that they have -a superior method of manufacturing iron, which has been observed in -their arrow-heads. Their worship is pagan.</p> - -<p>The west side of some of these mountains presents to the observer a -most singular appearance, being composed of immense blocks of stone, -(granite,) thrown by some volcanic power indiscriminately one upon -another, resembling at a distance the large towns built on other parts -of the mountains. The highest of the Dassa mountains, which is close on -the left or south side of the pass crossing this chain, is two thousand -five hundred feet high. The pass through these mountains is picturesque -and grand; huge blocks of granite resting on pivots and angles, almost -terrific to pass. The blue eagle, and various large birds of varied -plumage and forms, give a wild grandeur to the scene. The pass is -extremely rough, the traveller ascending and descending rocks, to the -distance of a mile, to avoid the deep pools in the hollows between -them, formed by the stream of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</span> considerable size which runs in the same -direction as the pass. The noise and gushing sound of the cataracts -reminded me of scenes far distant. I should have enjoyed it much better -had we not been annoyed by the Dassa people.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable, that in all the mountains in the interior I have -never observed a stone building, though stone might much easier be -obtained than the clay with which they are invariably built; for -instance, they carry clay from the plain for the purpose of building -upon granite rocks, on mountain-tops elevated two thousand feet from -their base. The lion, hyæna, and panther abound in these mountains, and -often commit great depredations. The antelope is also a resident here.</p> - -<p>After crossing the chain of the Dassa mountains, we entered another -beautiful plain, quite open to a distance of many miles to the -northward. The soil is of a light sandy clay and loam, well watered -by small streams, running to the N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> The ground, in consequence of -the heavy rains, had, as I stated, become very slippery; and, whether -by accident or intentionally I cannot determine, one of my Dahoman -carriers, sent with me by Mayho, let fall from his head a large case, -containing bottles of rum, breaking all but two. One of the soldiers -who was close behind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</span> him stated that this act was intentional, and -the caboceer declared that he would report the slave’s conduct to his -master immediately upon his return to Abomey. It was an unfortunate -event to myself and the caboceer, especially as my stock of spirits -was now nearly exhausted, and we had still many towns to visit, -where in all such cases a present of a flask of rum is considered an -indispensable <i>dash</i> to the caboceers and their head-men.</p> - -<p>Immediately after the case fell from the man’s head, one of the -soldiers placed it on its bottom, and I opened it. The box being pretty -closely packed, we managed to preserve a considerable portion of the -rum; but I had only two bottles, which I always ordered my own men to -carry in their havresacks, filled with water. We poured out the water -from these, and filled them with the dirty rum. The bottles having been -packed with straw, some of the soldiers wrung out the rum into their -calabashes, to drink. The remainder of the rum was distributed amongst -my people, with the exception of the unfortunate carrier, whom the -caboceer would not allow to taste it; and, as a farther punishment, he -was ordered to change his load for a much heavier one. The plain was -here thinly studded with palm and shea butter-trees.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</span></p> - -<p>After marching about thirteen miles, we entered a thick wood, which -runs along the base of a second range or crescent of mountains, -similarly situated to the Dassa mountains, but of much less magnitude, -and thickly wooded to the top. The geology of this differs from the -Dassa range, being composed chiefly of limestone, and a beautifully -twisted or waved marble of variegated colours—yellow, white, blue, and -red. After passing about five miles along their base, under large trees -of various sorts, the rain falling in torrents, we arrived at the pass -across this second range. The path, though well trodden under foot, was -entirely covered with pepper trees, of the small Chili tribe, about ten -feet in height.</p> - -<p>These bushes proved very annoying for a distance of about two miles. -The branches of the pepper-trees extended across the path at about four -feet from the ground, where they were so firmly interwoven as almost to -unseat me from my saddle, and being in full bearing at this season the -annoyance was still greater, the seeds coming in contact with the face -and eyes, and causing actual torture.</p> - -<p>It was very agreeable again to see the open plain, which we found at a -short distance from the mountains, beautifully cultivated. I forgot to -mention,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</span> that during our passing over the last range, I observed some -very singularly marked monkeys, having a white streak across the upper -part of the forehead, white round the mouth, and on the tip of the -nose. These were much smaller than the black or brown monkey, and of a -slate-grey-coloured body. We passed several large shocks of beans or -peas, of a description I had not yet noticed. They appeared to be very -prolific, and were about the size of the horse-bean in England, but as -white as our white pea; the stalk about three feet long, and also of a -light colour. I found upon inquiry that these were preserved for seed, -which were to be immediately put into the ground, though they had only -been two days gathered. I was told that the seed would produce another -crop in the space of two moons and a half. In this country they have -also a great variety of the ground-bean and nut, which is also very -abundant.</p> - -<p>After twenty-one miles we arrived at the town of Logazohy, where, -although completely drenched by the day’s heavy rain, we were obliged -to remain in the market-place till the poor old caboceer, who was in a -very delicate state of health, could prepare himself for my reception, -as the King’s stranger. After the usual prostration and forms<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</span> of -welcome, by drinking water, and then rum, we were led into a spacious -court-yard, where we observed a number of young female slaves, who -were very handsome, busily employed in grinding corn. They seemed to -have been taken unawares, for upon our approach they instantly fled. -We passed into a second and much smaller yard, where a good house for -myself and private servants was pointed out to me. This I ascertained -belonged to Mayho’s traders, who are stationed here.</p> - -<p>The town belonging to Mayho by right of conquest, the honour of -accommodating me with this apartment was claimed by these men, Mayho -having been appointed white man’s guardian or father during his -sojourn in the Dahoman kingdom. This circumstance seemed to cause a -certain degree of jealousy on the part of the caboceer and head men, -who insinuated that the apartments were not sufficiently good for the -King’s white stranger to lodge in. However, I expressed myself quite -satisfied and comfortable. After being supplied with a thick rush-mat -and a country-cloth, I stripped off all my wet clothes, and wrapped -myself in the cloth.</p> - -<p>The whole front of my house was open, consequently crowds, both young -and old of both<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</span> sexes, pressed eagerly almost into my apartment, to -see my white skin, which seemed greatly to excite their curiosity. In -about an hour after our arrival, the caboceer sent ten large calabashes -of ready-cooked provisions for me to distribute amongst my people, -and a few minutes afterwards the merchants brought me thirty-three -more dishes, holding about twenty English bushels, with one live -Guinea-fowl, a duck of the Muscovy breed, and several common fowls.</p> - -<p>The merchants, six in number, upon presenting me with the provisions, -prostrated themselves, the principal a little in advance of the others, -when after rubbing the upper parts of their naked persons with the -dust, or rather mud, they raised themselves to their knees, upon which -they remained resting on their hams, the custom always in addressing a -superior. The principal or head man, acting as a spokesman, expressed -gratification at having an opportunity of displaying their gratitude -and good feeling towards their King and his stranger, who had -condescended to visit their country, and hoped that this would not be -the last opportunity which would be afforded them of testifying their -good feeling to an Englishman. They said that it was owing to the skill -and goodness of white men who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</span> brought white man’s goods into their -country, that they were enabled to keep up a trade superior to the -kingdoms in the interior; then after expressing a wish that I would -soon again pay them another visit, the head man begged that I would do -him the honour to enter their names in my book. They were as follows:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zisau.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Degano.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ossou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Doyou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bokaw.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The caboceer and merchants were previously made aware of our intention -to visit their town, and were therefore enabled to get food prepared -for us. A strong fire was kindled inside my house, and my wet clothes -hung round to dry during the night. I have often been surprised at -their carelessness with respect to fire. During the rainy season it is -generally kindled inside their huts, which even in the centre seldom -exceed eight feet in height, and though the thatch reaches within three -feet of the ground, yet accidents seldom occur. It is true, they have -generally little to lose by fire, the extent of their furniture being -a stool or two, and a few earthen pots of native manufacture, in which -they cook their food, and a few gourds or calabashes. The roof alone -can be destroyed, the walls being thick and of clay, hardened by fire.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</span></p> - -<p>August 16th.—Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer Chaou, -who according to custom came to wish me good morning. He introduced all -his head men to me, explained the nature of each of their offices. Soon -afterwards, a number of the caboceer’s wives arrived, accompanied by -double their own number of slaves loaded with provisions, which were -presented to myself and people. As soon as this ceremony was concluded, -the person appointed to taste each dish, as well as one of my own -people, partook of a small portion of each, to show us that there was -nothing poisonous contained in it. After the several dishes were all -distributed, Chaou, in a whisper, begged the captain of my guard to ask -if I would condescend to enter his own name and those of his head men -in my book. Of course I readily assented, and entered as follows:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chaou.<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adjutabellee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Douzougoukeny.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amouzoukpway.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bozou-nogoodithay.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Annessou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Aladee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nah.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dosoutimee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dojee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adjobolee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Awalla.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Atepwhahoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asseedaw.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agasahogloo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kadjo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kapo.</span><br /> -</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> After my return to Whydah, I happened to mention this -circumstance to a Portuguese slave-merchant, at the same time doubting -the truth of the powers of this plant. He assured me of the correctness -of this information, and that the same plant is to be found in the -Brazils.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Caboceer.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Enter Logazohy in Regimentals—Received by the Caboceer, -attended by his Soldiers—Singular Mode of Dancing—Native -Jester—Description of the Town—Corn Mills—Presents from -Fetish-women—Agriculture—Prevalent Diseases—A disgusting Case of -Leprosy—Quarrel among my Carriers—My Illness—The Damadomy—Trees, -Shrubs—The Agbado—Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by -my Dahoman Guards—Savalu—Reception by the Caboceer—Picturesque -Situation of the Town—Caboceer’s House—His Wives—His Jester—My -Illness.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Previous to my leaving Abomey for the Mahee country, the King expressed -a desire that I should either enter the town, (where it might be -arranged for me to remain all night,) in regimentals; or if more -convenient to me, dress in them on the following morning, and proceed -a short distance out of the town, going through a formal reception by -the caboceer and head men. Accordingly, it was arranged that I should -remain one day for that purpose, and about ten o’clock, all being -ready, I, together with all my retinue, marched out of the town to the -distance of about half a mile, in the same direction as we entered. -We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</span> then countermarched, and were met by Chaou and head men, with his -guard of about eighty soldiers, armed with muskets and short swords. -As they advanced, a constant fire was kept up till within a few yards -of us. Then both parties halted; upon which the usual prostration and -palaver of welcome were as minutely observed as if he had not before -seen us. We afterwards drank water with each other, and then rum of a -very indifferent quality. Both parties then alternately went through -their exercise of attack and defence. Their mode of skirmishing is all -by stealth upon the enemy, and their charge is a wild disorderly rush, -without any line being preserved. Each soldier upon his return brings -with him a tuft of grass, or a piece of a bough of some description, to -represent a head which he is supposed to have just cut off.</p> - -<p>We then advanced to the town, where we formed up in the market-place. -Here each party alternately kept up what they called dancing, and -drinking rum and peto for about an hour. Their motion in dancing is -unlike that of any other country with which I am acquainted. They never -use their legs, except when making some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</span> extraordinary leap to change -their front in another direction, their principal motion being in the -hips and shoulders, which are thrown backwards and forwards in rapid -motion; sometimes their movements are, to any civilized being, of a -very disgusting nature.</p> - -<p>During this ceremony the market-place was crowded with spectators, who -seemed quite delighted with the performance. Each caboceer invariably -keeps a clown, who is selected according to his powers of humour, -many of them displaying considerable talent. At last a messenger came -to signify to Chaou that dinner was prepared for us, when we retired -to our houses, where we found not only an extravagant quantity of -provision, supplied by the caboceer, but also by the same merchants -who had already been so liberal. We were also supplied with a large -quantity of peto.</p> - -<p>After dinner I took a survey of the town, which for regularity and -neatness surpassed most of those I had yet visited in the Mahee -country. It is strongly fenced, has an inner wall, and a large outer -and inner market, well supplied with native produce and manufactures. -Rats, mice, and the guano are also sold in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</span> greater abundance for -consumption than in any other place I had seen. This was the first town -in which I observed any regularity or form of manufactory.</p> - -<p>In the principal square, which was entirely occupied by the caboceer -and retinue, nearly one side was occupied by corn-mills, where a number -of very handsome young female slaves were employed grinding corn. About -two yards distant, behind where the grinders were employed, was a line -of fires, parallel to the line of mills; each fire was attended by a -cook and an assistant. The whole was covered in with a roof neatly -thatched. The side of the building facing the square was open like a -shed.</p> - -<p>During the greater part of the afternoon I was beset with visitors, -bringing some trifling articles as presents, amongst whom were many -fetish-women, who brought me some eggs. These women are licensed -beggars, sanctioned by royalty, and possess great influence amongst the -people. They attend all public markets, and are entirely supported by -contributions, which are liberally bestowed from a dread of offending -them. The old caboceer, Chaou, paid me a visit,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</span> and earnestly inquired -if I could prescribe any medicine for a severe cough which much -annoyed him. He said that some of my soldiers told him I could cure -all diseases. I gave him a few colocinth and calomel pills, knowing -that he would not feel satisfied without something in the shape of -medicine,—in return for which he gave me a young bull.</p> - -<p>The land here is well cultivated, and bears excellent crops near the -town. The rocks are of granite, and singularly twisted and stratified -horizontally, with scarcely any dip, in sections of pure white, -resembling alum.</p> - -<p>Leprosy as well as small-pox appear to be the most prevalent diseases -here. The town of Logazohy contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants. -The cattle are handsome and numerous, with the exception of pigs, which -had lately suffered much from a disease resembling the small-pox. Very -few are now left in the country.</p> - -<p>Towards the evening I felt a little feverish, probably from recent -fatigue and sleeping in wet clothes. I subsequently ordered a bason -of gruel to be prepared for me, and took a dose of James’s powder and -some sedative of opium. Upon lying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</span> down for the night, my friend -the captain of my guard seemed much alarmed, for he saw that I was -ill. He was very anxious that I should not take any medicine, lest it -might kill me, but I assured him that I took it for the purpose of -getting well. Being extremely ill, I had given orders not to admit any -strangers into my apartment, or even into the yard, but one poor old -woman, who had a son suffering dreadfully from leprosy, managed to gain -admittance to me, bringing a present of two fowls and some eggs. These, -however, I declined to accept, on account of her poverty, but assured -her that if she would bring her son to me, I would give him some -medicine; and told the old dame that white man came to her country to -teach them and do them good, and at the same time explained to her that -my reason for not accepting her present, was not that I undervalued its -pecuniary worth, but from a conviction that she might sell them in the -market for her own benefit.</p> - -<p>Upon this, the poor old woman prostrated herself, and as usual covered -herself with mud, for the rain had been very heavy all the previous -day and night. She remained on her knees for some time, singing an -extemporary song in praise<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</span> of the King’s stranger. She then departed -to bring her son, and in a short time returned with the unfortunate -object of her solicitude, who was decidedly the most loathsome creature -in human form I ever beheld. He was apparently about nineteen or twenty -years of age, and was covered with the loathsome disease from head to -foot except those parts which were ulcerated, with a discharge chiefly -from the arm-pits. The smell was so intolerable that my servants -retreated upon his approach. He was reduced to a mere skeleton, and -yet the poor fellow appeared not to suffer much pain, nor did any -particular organ seem to suffer more than another.</p> - -<p>This case being beyond my skill, I could only prescribe calomel pills, -and a few doses of salts. I also presented the mother with a few -needles and a thimble, for which she seemed truly grateful, pronouncing -a blessing upon me as she departed. At last I had an opportunity of -lying down to rest. Though suffering much from fever, I soon fell into -a confused sleep, from the powerful dose of opium I had taken. Early -in the morning I rose with a view of getting the greater part of my -journey over before the sun should reach the meridian, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</span> after -breakfast, August 17th, some of my men beginning to dispute about -carrying the luggage as previously arranged, I was compelled to use -my horsewhip. The excitement produced by this disobedience suddenly -threw me into a violent chill, which commenced at the feet, and rapidly -rose upwards till it reached the pit of the stomach. Then sickness and -vomiting began, followed by violent headach and giddiness.</p> - -<p>This kind of attack is generally a prelude to a very severe and -dangerous fever. In a few minutes after the chill reached my chest, I -reeled and fell prostrate; but when the violent burning of the fever -commenced, the giddiness partly left me. I then took another strong -dose of opium and James’s powder, and lay down for two hours. I now -found myself in a violent perspiration, overcome by a sort of pleasing -stupor. This enabled me to bear up against the violence of the fever.</p> - -<p>I ordered my horse to be again got ready, in defiance of the kind -remonstrances of the captain of my guard, and commenced my journey, -bearing magnetic W.N.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr> At a short distance from the town, we passed -over marble rocks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</span> beautifully twisted; but, on entering the plain, -we again found the bed composed of fused iron ore, with shea-butter -and palm-trees, thinly spread over it, and many other trees, the names -and class of the greater part of which were strange to me, being -unacquainted with botany.</p> - -<p>At a short distance from the town of Logazohy, we crossed a small -stream of good water, about three feet deep and eight feet wide, -running eastward. This stream is named Damadomy. After crossing it, -I observed several large sycamore and ash trees, exactly similar to -those found in England, but of considerably larger growth, and the -bark more rough and fractured. Here also were numerous stunted shrubs, -of a peculiar description, which are very seldom met with, except in -this neighbourhood, and occupy a belt of country extending east and -west. One of these plants or shrubs is from four to six feet in height, -with numerous branches; both trunk and branches are very crooked, -and contain but very few leaves. The branches are nearly all of one -thickness, from the trunk to their top, which terminates abruptly. The -leaves are much smaller, but in shape resemble those of the laurel; -they are very fleshy,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</span> and of a pea-green colour. The bark is grey, -and also very fleshy; upon the whole this shrub has the appearance of -having been scorched and in a state of recovery.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img002"> -<img src="images/002.jpg" class="w75" alt="THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF LOGAZOHY." /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">From a Sketch by Duncan <span class="ml">Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.</span><br />THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF LOGAZOHY.</p> - - -<p>At twelve miles distant, to the southward, I observed a range of -mountains, forming an arch of 90° <abbr title="south">S.</abbr> and <abbr title="west">W.</abbr> At eight miles further, -we arrived at the river Agbado, a rapid stream, twenty yards wide, -and only six feet deep, with steep banks densely wooded, with very -large trees, and a thick underwood. The river runs N.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> at this -point, but soon changed its course. When we reached it, we were much -disappointed (at least my guard pretended to be so) at not finding that -any arrangement had been made for our crossing the river. This, they -alleged, ought to have been done by the caboceer of Savalu, distant -only two miles, whom we had purposely come to visit. It appeared, -however, that the notice he had received of our intention to visit him -was so short, that he had scarcely any time to arrange himself and his -household.</p> - -<p>My conviction was, that this apparent neglect was the result of a -preconcerted arrangement, in order to give the Dahoman soldiers an -opportunity<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</span> of exhibiting their skill as engineers. I proposed to swim -my horse and self across, but this was opposed by the caboceer, on -account of the rapidity of the stream. Besides, how were the officers’ -wives, who carried their baggage, and also my own carriers, to get -across? For this purpose I proposed rafts to be made from branches -of trees, cut into lengths and lashed together and passed across by -a rope, formed from the long fibres which grow downwards from the -branches of the large trees on this bank, resembling hundreds of ropes -of various thickness. These extraordinary fibres are sometimes thirty -and forty feet long, according to the height of the branches from which -they grow, and are extremely tough. They are pliable and of great -strength. When they reach the ground, they insert themselves to some -depth, and again take root, from which other trees spring upwards. They -frequently form a colonnade of considerable extent along the banks of -rivers, and resemble mangroves.</p> - -<p>My proposition was not approved of, and a council of officers being -held, it was in a short time determined to adopt rather a novel method, -which it may be interesting to describe. As I have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</span> already stated, -large trees, of a species which I have previously mentioned, grew on -the banks on either side of this river. A number of small trees were -cut, each of the private soldiers cutting with his short sabre, or -knife, till a sufficient number were thus obtained. These poles newly -cut were tied to the long fibres hanging perpendicularly from the -branches of the larger trees, and were then attached in succession, -horizontally, till they reached the hanging fibres of the trees on the -opposite bank.</p> - -<p>After having fixed two lines of poles across, in the manner I have -described, about one yard apart, short pieces of wood were cut and -placed across, and small boughs, and grass or reeds, placed on the top, -so that a suspension-bridge was thus simply constructed in the short -space of half an hour. The whole party then passed over in safety. -I was informed, in reply to a question, that this is by no means an -invention of the Dahomans, but has long been practised in Central -Africa, especially in time of war, and where the rivers are not too -wide. Floating bridges are also constructed in a similar manner, where -the above method cannot be adopted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</span></p> - -<p>After crossing this river we entered the Annagoo country. We halted -a short time on the bank, to give the caboceer of Savalu time to -prepare himself for our reception. A messenger now arrived to say that -he would shortly be ready to receive us. I here changed my dress, -and substituted my military uniform. This caboceer was described to -be a man of great wealth and power, and a great favourite with the -King of Dahomey. He is consequently allowed a considerable degree of -discretionary power beyond that of any other chief, the caboceer of -Whydah excepted.</p> - -<p>As soon as my rude toilet was finished, I mounted as a Life Guardsman, -but not quite so neat as when on duty at Whitehall. After advancing -about one mile towards the town, we were met by the caboceer under some -very large trees, where was a cranery. This place was delightfully -shaded. Here the captain of my guard and myself seated ourselves -under one of the trees, till this great personage made three times -a procession in a circle round us to the left, for it is considered -unlucky to form circle to the right. This caboceer appeared to consider -himself much above<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</span> any other I had seen, either in the Mahee or -Dahoman kingdoms, now united. He would not condescend to walk, but was -carried round us in his hammock. He then alighted, and his hammock was -carried suspended to a pole, each end resting on the heads of two stout -slaves, who always proceeded at a trot. He advanced towards us on foot, -after he had displayed to his own satisfaction the richly ornamented -hammock in which he had been riding. He afterwards informed me that it -was presented to him by the King of Dahomey. He next went through the -usual ceremony of prostration, and rubbing himself with dust. He then -delivered a long address of welcome to the King’s English stranger, -finishing his harangue by saying that I was like to a man who had been -many moons searching in the bush for a large block of wood for his -fire, and had rejected many as being bad wood to burn, but to his great -satisfaction at last found a large tree of a peculiar description, -which burnt like a lamp. He said, that I in like manner had been -travelling through the Mahee and Fellattah countries, but during the -whole of my long journey I had not seen any town so great or so<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</span> grand -as the town of Savalu, which I was about to enter.</p> - -<p>The caboceer, whose name is Bagadee, is a very fine stout handsome -black, of very pleasing expression and address, possessing great -intelligence; and having travelled a considerable distance in the -neighbouring kingdoms, he has a tolerable idea of the geography of -the surrounding country. As we advanced towards the town, which was -certainly the most picturesque and grand of any I had seen since -leaving the country of the Fellattahs, we ascended six platforms -in succession, of flights of steps naturally formed, of a very -peculiar sort of stone, resembling petrified wood, and stratified -perpendicularly. These steps extend upwards of a mile in length, and -each platform is of nearly the same breadth, preserving the same -throughout; so that an observer could scarcely be convinced that they -were formed by Nature, were he not aware of the generally indolent -character of the natives. These platforms were about fifty yards in -width, with numerous little villages situated thereon, apparently -occupied by farmers, and here all the cattle are kept, of which there -are great numbers: goats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</span> and sheep only are admitted in the town. The -mountain of Savalu, from which the town takes its name, is beautifully -wooded to the summit, with bold projecting rocks or precipices at -different distances, showing their hoary crowns and angles, forming -a beautiful back-ground to the town, which, independently of the -neighbouring kroom, is certainly larger than any town in the Mahee -country, and before it was ceded to the Dahomans was always considered -the capital or metropolis. The houses are much larger generally, -and built with more taste and uniformity than any Mahee town. The -caboceer’s house is two stories high, and built on a platform directly -overlooking the market-place. His house and the market are separated -by a wall about ten or twelve feet high. The windows or light-holes -of the upper story are considerably higher than the wall, so that the -inmates, chiefly the caboceer’s wives, can overlook the whole of the -market-place, and in fact the whole town, being situated on the base of -the mountain.</p> - -<p>We remained in the market-place about an hour and a half, drinking rum -and peto, the soldiers of each guard alternately dancing and keeping up -an irregular fire. During this time the caboceer’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</span> wives were stealing -a peep through the windows, but the moment they were observed withdrew. -Amongst the soldiers of Savalu, I noticed the jester very particularly, -who certainly displayed more wit and fun than clowns generally do, in -endeavouring to fire off his musket, which several times missed fire; -upon which he shook out the whole of the priming, and spit into the -pan, and again snapped the piece as if expecting the explosion would -fellow. He also performed several other antics equally ridiculous. -At last we were allowed to retire to the quarters which had been -allotted to us. These were a considerable distance from the principal -market-place.</p> - -<p>We passed through several minor markets on our way to my quarters, -then from one court-yard to another, till we at last reached the house -appointed for us, which, according to my ideas, ill corresponded with -the description given by the young caboceer of his town. The house -was so low in the doorway, that I was compelled to enter on my hands -and knees, and when I had passed through a partition into the inner -apartment, which was as dark as a dungeon, I was obliged to burn a -light. I felt much annoyed at this, and refused<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</span> to remain there, -looking upon it as an insult. Upon this circumstance being made known, -several of the trading merchants from Abomey kindly proffered me their -houses, provided the caboceer had no objections.</p> - -<p>A messenger was consequently despatched to communicate my -dissatisfaction with my lodgings to the caboceer, who appeared quite -surprised, and came back with my messenger to make personal inquiry -respecting it. Upon his inquiring why I objected to the apartment, -I told him my first impression was that it must have been used as a -prison, on account of its strength and darkness, being without any -aperture to admit of light, except the low doorway.</p> - -<p>In explanation he informed me, that in his country the greater part of -the houses were purposely so constructed, to prevent the inmates from -being seen by a passer-by, who might shoot them with their arrows, in -time of war, which was a common practice; and that this house had been -selected as a security against such an occurrence. However, I chose the -house of the merchant, which was tolerably comfortable; but felt rather -feverish, and had also a slight touch of ague. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</span> found it necessary, -therefore, to take more medicine, which so much alarmed my caboceer, -that he refused all sorts of food whatever, complaining bitterly of -the advantage taken in stealing a march upon him into the country of -enemies, thereby endangering his life as well as my own. He declared -his conviction, that I had contracted my illness through excessive -fatigue and exposure in the Fellattah country. However, two doses of -James’s powder and opium considerably subdued my fever. Here we were, -as usual, supplied with large quantities of provision ready cooked, -both by the caboceer and merchants. Late in the evening the caboceer -again visited me, bringing with him some rum as well as some cherry -brandy, which he proudly boasted had been sent him by the King of -Dahomey. After he had distributed these, I gave him the contents of a -flask of rum from my own stores, a box of lucifer matches, and a large -Jew’s harp, which seemed to afford him much pleasure. At a late hour he -and his head-men retired to their homes, much to my satisfaction, for I -felt much in want of rest.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu—Curiosity of the -Natives—State Constables—Military Dance—Introduction to -the Fetish-women—Manufactures—Crane-shooting—Present by -Fetish-women—Hospitality of the Caboceer—His Name and those -of his Head Men—Wild Grapes—The Zoka—Shrubs—Swim across the -Zoka—Mode of Transporting my Luggage—Difficulty in getting my -Horse across—Fearlessness of the Dahoman Female Carriers—Bad -Roads—Jallakoo—Reception by the Caboceer—My Illness—Appear in -Regimentals before the Caboceer—Concern evinced on account of my -Illness—Description of the Town—Agriculture—Caboceer’s Name and -those of his Head Men—Presents to the Caboceer.</p> -</div> - - -<p>August 18th.—We were visited early by the caboceer, who came to wish -us good morning, bringing with him another small flask of rum, with -which we drank each other’s health. He seemed very desirous to acquaint -me with his wealth and power, explaining that he held, under the King -of Dahomey, a discretionary power superior to any other caboceer, and -also the government of several neighbouring towns in the Mahee country, -as well as several large towns in his own country (Annagoo),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</span> which he -assisted the Dahomans in subduing. Savalu is the frontier town of the -Annagoo country, the natives of which are always considered a lawless, -marauding people, and habituated to acts of extreme cruelty.</p> - -<p>In a short time breakfast was brought; after partaking of which we -were again invited to the market-place, where many thousands, both -old and young, were assembled to see the white man. The crowd was so -great, that the ground-keepers were entirely overpowered, although -they used their immense whips with great violence and dexterity. It -is a singular fact, that the state constables in nearly all the large -towns of the Dahoman, Mahee, Fellattah, and Annagoo countries, are -selected from deformed persons. Many of them are armed with a bullock’s -tail dried with the skin on, and the long hair shaven off. This is a -merciless weapon when used with both hands, which is frequently the -case when authority is resisted. The offending parties are compelled -to kneel down, and to place a hand on each knee, the body bending -forward towards the constable, who inflicts his blows longitudinally -on the back. This is a very severe punishment, and is the mode adopted -for minor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</span> offences through the whole Dahoman kingdom. A dozen is the -greatest number I ever knew inflicted at one time on the same person.</p> - -<p>Some soldiers having been stationed to assist in keeping the ground, -something like order was restored, and the amusements commenced by the -caboceer circling round in his hammock, as on the previous afternoon. -During this a continual firing was kept up. He afterwards got out of -his hammock, and advanced within a few yards of me, when, as usual, -he went through the regular forms of prostration. He then examined -my horse and trappings, apparently with great interest. His soldiers -and head men then commenced dancing; and, as a matter of courtesy, my -caboceer condescended to dance with the same party. Their music was -rude, but not very unpleasant; they were wind instruments, similar to -the hautboy, accompanied with drums and calabashes, or gourds, covered -with net-work strung with human teeth.</p> - -<p>The fetish-women, who were at this period keeping up their annual -custom, which lasts during a whole moon, were then introduced. They -appeared<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</span> to be the finest and handsomest women in the place. They were -richly ornamented with coral and brass bracelets or armlets, apparently -of Bornouese manufacture. Each wore, besides a country cloth, a large -silk handkerchief of European manufacture. I could scarcely refrain -from expressing my regret at seeing them prostrate themselves, and -besmearing themselves with dirt, after the pains which they had taken -to appear so neat and clean before this form of humiliation.</p> - -<p>As soon as this ceremony was finished, the whole party repeated a short -prayer, after which they commenced a dance by themselves, singing -some particular song, to which they kept time by clapping their hands -against those of their partner. My own soldiers next commenced dancing, -when they were joined by the principal men of Savalu, who considered -themselves highly honoured by being allowed to dance with my Dahoman -soldiers.</p> - -<p>After this sort of amusement had been concluded, I presented both -parties of soldiers with some rum, and took a stroll round the town to -examine the markets, and observe their mode of manufacture. This day, -however, had been set<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</span> apart by order of the caboceer as a holiday, so -that scarcely any thing was exposed for sale in the market. However, -I had an opportunity of seeing the blacksmith and weaver at work. The -weavers here use a more perfect loom than the Fellattahs, and are also -much superior to any I observed in the Mahee country. At Savalu they -weave a sort of webbing similar to some of the fine silk webbing used -for gentlemen’s braces; but, upon a close inspection, I found that -several of the principal weavers used European manufactured thread, -both silk and cotton.</p> - -<p>In the whole of the countries I have visited, either on the coast, or -in the interior, they have no other method of spinning than by the -ancient distaff. I have often wondered at this, for their looms are -exactly on the same principle as those of Europe. They knit nightcaps -in great quantities here; and during my stay at Baffo a man knitted me -a pair of socks, from a pair I lent him as a pattern. These are still -in my possession.</p> - -<p>I asked permission to shoot some cranes in the cranery we passed -yesterday, but the caboceer would only allow me to shoot the grey ones. -The white<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</span> cranes, he said, were the fetish-men to the grey ones. -The caboceer accompanied me, and seemed much surprised at my killing -one with so small a gun on the top of so high a tree, particularly -as he had never seen small shot used before. They generally use iron -bullets, rudely forged. I offered to shoot one with a gun belonging to -the principal warrior of my guard, but this he peremptorily refused, -declaring “that if white man fired out of his gun, black man can never -again kill any thing with the same piece.” To convince him of his -error, I offered to let him have a shot with mine, but even this he -declined. I afterwards learnt that they will not even allow their own -comrades to fire out of their guns.</p> - -<p>Upon my return home I found my court-yard covered with dishes of -provision, smoking hot, the merchants as well as the caboceer having -sent numerous dishes, as well as plenty of peto for my people to drink. -Soon after we had finished our meal, we were beset with fetish-women, -bringing small presents, received by them as tithes, on the last -market-day. Tithes are actually customary to fetish-women even in -Abomey. Although their present be ever so trifling, the acceptor is -considered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</span> as under a religious obligation to make a return of tenfold -value.</p> - -<p>One very fine old fetish-woman, accompanied by her two daughters, -presented me with some eggs, which she brought me on a soup plate of -English manufacture, for which I gave in return needles and thimbles. -With these they seemed much pleased, but unfortunately on their way -home they dropped the plate and broke it into several pieces. The young -ladies returned crying bitterly, earnestly entreating me to mend it, -and seemed still more grieved when I told them that it was beyond my -skill. To console them, however, I told them that I would certainly -send them one from Whydah by the Abomey messenger, who would forward it -to Savalu by the traders. This promise I fulfilled.</p> - -<p>Late in the evening the caboceer again visited me, when I presented -him with a few ornamental trinkets, as well as a knife and a pair of -scissors. With these he seemed pleased. I also presented his head -men, and the Abomey merchants who had treated us so kindly, with some -trifling articles. In return, they presented me with a live goat and -some fowls.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</span></p> - -<p>August 19th.—Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer, -who came to pay his morning visit. The night had been very wet, and -I was still suffering a little from fever; however, I was determined -to proceed on my journey. We were furnished with a good breakfast, -of which I partook a little. I had now become quite the African in -my diet, which agreed with me very well, and I would recommend all -travellers to adopt the same plan. When my party were announced to -be all ready for the march, we were conducted through the principal -market-place, where we found a fine young bull tied to one of the -trees. The gay young caboceer here prostrated himself, and after the -usual rubbing with dirt, presented me with this bull, which he sent to -Abomey by carriers.</p> - -<p>During my stay at Savalu the caboceer supplied me with seventy-seven -large calabashes of ready-cooked provision, besides plenty of fruit, -the principal of which, in use at this season, were the gwaba, -pine-apple, oranges, popans, mangoes, and the kidney cachu. The -caboceer, before leaving his town, begged me to do him the honour to -insert his own and the name of his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</span> head men in my book. I here give -them, for they tend to show the names peculiar to different countries:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caboceer                  Bagadee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Head men                  Agbuzzee.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kootakoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Naghwoolyaemadah.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dissou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Naghohennah.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agyddymoosee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agbadyea.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kpwaghooda.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agoyae.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Daffo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bozavee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kudjo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Koko.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Attlah.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Athaly.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dakphway.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boka.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vaugh.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kogilee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lyhoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossou.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gbazoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oosa.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Atholoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mirahoo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Modjekossee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Azamodoko.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jayaloogo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kudjo 2d.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Akyea.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jagadidjee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yakadya.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caboceer’s Head wife      Selamee</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The thermometer now ranged from 80° to 73° of Fahrenheit.</p> - -<p>It may be well to observe here, that the name of Kudjo is not peculiar -to this country, but rather to the Gold Coast, and is only given to -those who are born on particular days.</p> - -<p>After finishing the above ceremony, we marched<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</span> on our journey, bearing -W.S.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, crossing the range of Savalu Mountains. The grass, which was -very long (being nearly six feet), and hanging across the path, quite -wet from the previous night’s rain, soon drenched us as much as a -heavy rain would have done, but the sun very soon dried all of us, -and perspiration succeeded. At two miles we reached a fine open plain -studded with shea butter-trees, now ripe; their fruit was lying in -large quantities under the trees.</p> - -<p>The direction of the path now changed more southward. Here we passed -numbers of ash-trees not different from that of Great Britain, except -that they had a rougher bark, with deeper fracture. Journeying a few -miles farther, we passed through some thick bush, where we found large -quantities of wild grapes hanging in bunches over the path; the vine -clinging to various trees, and running from one to another. This grape -was of the green tribe, very similar to those which ornament the walls -of our cottages in England, but the bunches were not so compact. At -eight miles, we crossed the River Zoka, running S.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> with a rapid -stream, on account of its being the rainy season. At nine miles we -crossed another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</span> brook, with excellent water, running in nearly the -same direction.</p> - -<p>At fourteen miles, we passed some curious shrubs of the same -description as I observed in the Fellattah country; although in full -vegetation, the leaves were coloured and marked like the feathers of a -partridge. There is here also a great variety of the aloe tribe, some -of which I found to change their colour and marks by transplanting to a -different soil. The wild gwaba is very abundant here, and much larger -than in the neighbourhood of Cape Coast. The yellow fig also abounds -here as well as the kolla-nut.</p> - -<p>At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river Zoka, which at this -place runs S.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr>, twenty yards wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were -detained upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain a canoe, -but as they are generally kept at a great distance from the paths, -it takes several hours to bring them to the place of crossing. In -this instance, however, we were totally defeated, for my messengers -returned with tidings that the canoe was broken, so that we had no -other method of getting across except by swimming. The stream at this -place was very rapid, consequently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</span> I deemed it prudent, not to swim -across on horseback, but put on my life-preserver (an American one). -Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use to me, but rather entangled -me; and I was consequently carried a considerable distance obliquely -down the stream. However, I landed safely on some rocks on the opposite -side, but in doing so struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion -of skin off as well as bruising it.</p> - -<p>My next object was to get my luggage across, now much diminished -both in bulk and weight. I caused some poles, which were growing in -abundance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and lashed together, in -the form of a raft. In a piece of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I -tied two bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball of sewing twine, -which was loosely placed in a coil to prevent its getting entangled. -The two bullets were then attached to a stouter piece of string, about -one yard in length, used to sling them across the river. After the -bullets were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to which a line -of about the substance of a clothes’ line was fixed, the other end -of which was fastened to the raft. This was placed on the water a -considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</span> distance above the landing-place, so as to allow for the -current. Two boxes were placed on the raft, and when ready I pulled -them across. This method was repeated until the whole of my luggage, as -well as that of my officers, was safely landed.</p> - -<p>By this time the greater part of my people had swam across also, but my -horse still remained. It was also fastened to the end of the raft line -and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached the opposite bank, -which was nearly perpendicular and the water deep, the poor animal -could not obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by the halter, -till the headstall gave way. The poor beast, already considerably -exhausted from exertion, now made again for the other side, where it -narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract formed of rocks a little -below the place of crossing. To my great satisfaction, however, the -noble little animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook itself, -and neighed, looking across as if conscious of its being on the wrong -side. The little fellow was again haltered with stronger material, and -was launched into the river.</p> - -<p>I now placed myself at a part of the bank close to a small creek, where -it reached me without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</span> difficulty, being lower down the stream. I at -once saddled him, and resumed our journey.</p> - -<p>I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner in which my caboceer and -head men’s wives took the water. They did not even require the raft to -carry their luggage across, the whole of which was contained in large -gourd calabashes, about two feet and a half diameter. These vessels -were guided across with one hand, while the other was used in swimming. -Immediately after crossing the river, it commenced raining very -heavily, and continued to do so for several hours.</p> - -<p>The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and -worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough -iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render -the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet -sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found -myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on -my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to -walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more -fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</span> long journey, -though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and -brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have -even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the -little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one -instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped -from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters -and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously -made a second attempt, in which it succeeded.</p> - -<p>Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we -were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night -was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with -little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots, -till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town -of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of -this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence.</p> - -<p>After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</span> in the original -kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that -direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place -by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official -affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age. -This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the -usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely -exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my -uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets -and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by -torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood, -which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes -smeared with the shea-butter.</p> - -<p>After entering the town, we were conducted to an inner market-place, -where we again halted to go through all the tedious ceremony of a -Dahoman reception. This I could very willingly have dispensed with, -for I now began to feel very uncomfortable, my under-clothing being -completely saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</span> which had -now ceased. I also felt very sensibly an inclination to ague, which -was considerably advanced by being put into a new house, the walls and -thatch of which were quite green and open on three sides, which were -merely borne on wooden pillars, for they had been informed that I did -not like close or dark lodgings. I put up the little tent which I had -constructed inside of the house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush -mattress, which made an excellent bed, having been prepared for me, I -was placed inside of it, and a strong fire immediately kindled close -to me. I then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal, with which -I took a strong dose of James’s powder and opium, and in a short time -the ague ceased, but was immediately followed by a burning fever with -intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint of water every five -minutes, till at last the perspiration became so copious, that I felt -almost as wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt much easier, -and through the powerful influence of the opium I passed a night of -pleasant and happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely regretted -I could not realize. The caboceer, however, declared his night had -been anything but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</span> comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been -groaning and talking nearly the whole of it, which had much alarmed -him. I felt so considerably weakened from the violence of the attack, -and from such copious perspiration, and the stupifying effects of -the opium, that I was scarcely able to stand on my legs. I rallied, -however, and determined to resist as much as possible the powerful -influence of the fever, and with a little assistance I walked a few -times round the yard, in the centre of which was a fine large spring -well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of this I took a copious -draught, which considerably refreshed me.</p> - -<p>In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large -calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and -immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more -dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness -while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting -on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with -the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their -readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</span> comfort. After -this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy -caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill, -begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house -in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that -my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his -messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had -come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present -indisposition.</p> - -<p>As soon as possible I prepared myself, and proceeded to the court-yard -of the old caboceer, which was at some distance off. Having a great -many very low doorways to pass through, I was nearly bent double. -My horse also with difficulty passed through without his saddle, -consequently I was prevented mounting until I arrived at the caboceer’s -yard. Here I found the venerable chief seated under the shade of a -large cabbage-tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering the -court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on their knees, with their -hands together and in front of their faces, as if in the attitude of -prayer.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</span> Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands three times, -then a short pause ensued, and the same clapping of hands was repeated -twice more. This is a mode of salutation in Whydah to a superior, as -also as in all the Dahoman kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and -the cracking of the two second fingers of each hand, joined, in the -same manner as cracking the thumb and finger. The old man seemed much -interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also with my arms, and the -manner of placing them on the saddle to carry them. He next put a great -many questions to me respecting white man’s country, and seemed much -astonished at my answers.</p> - -<p>The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-surfaced rock, at the -base of a mountain, from which the town takes its name. This is the -most picturesque of all the mountains I have yet seen in the Mahee -or Dahoman kingdom. One part of it is formed by the largest blocks -of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon each other: in some -respects their position was not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees -in many instances grew between these immense<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</span> rocks, which support the -upper or horizontal ones. In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand -and so picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also the last we -touch upon on our return to Abomey.</p> - -<p>Here I made particular inquiry respecting their mode of agriculture, -and the sort of grain principally used, as well as what was the most -profitable, and its time of ripening. Guinea corn is much used here, -as well as several sorts of maize and rice. I was informed that in -this country the Guinea corn requires nearly seven moons to ripen, -rice five, and maize between four and five months, though at Setta and -Paweea I found a smaller sort of Indian corn, which ripens in two and -a half and three moons, and also another sort which ripens in four -moons. They never consider the utility of selecting any particular -sort of seed; but after my return to Abomey, the King, who is a great -agriculturist, informed me that the latest corn known will, if planted -in the proper season, ripen in less than four moons, and also told me -that the time of ripening had in many instances been mistaken, from -a want of knowledge, and planting the corn too soon before the rainy -season.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</span></p> - -<p>We were supplied with plenty of peto during our palaver. Here were -several beautiful crown-birds walking about the market-place quite -tame. The old caboceer expressed great anxiety to have the names of -himself and head men, as well as his principal wive’s name, recorded in -my book; and I here give them according to my promise, as follows:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">First Caboceer      Nakoomakay.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wife’s name          Agbally.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Second Caboceer      Adyamee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wife’s name          Whendie.</span><br /> -</p> - - -<p class="center">Head men.</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tetay.<a id="FNanchor_19a" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Atakpa.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bosou.<a id="FNanchor_19b" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kudjo.<a id="FNanchor_19c" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adamazo.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chigyea.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dakay.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ozee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mokosa.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wzoto.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tootee.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Takpwadda.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>After this ceremony I was allowed to depart to my own quarters, where -I changed my dress, but had scarcely finished when I was besieged -by visitors from all parts of the town, as well as the neighbouring -villages, many of whom brought<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</span> me provisions ready cooked, and several -live animals. One rich merchant, named Sisinau, brought me thirty-two -large calabashes of provision, as well as plenty of peto. Many of the -fetish-men and women brought me gruels of various compositions, all of -which were very palatable, being generally sweetened with wild honey, -which is very abundant in the whole of the country traversed in this -direction.</p> - -<p>In the evening I was again visited by the two caboceers, whom I -treated with a flask of rum to distribute amongst his head men. I -also gave him a piece of romall (cloth), which I invariably gave the -caboceers in whose towns I lodged, as well as some Jew’s harps, and -two knives, with some papers of needles and a few thimbles, which were -much prized. I then signified my intention to proceed on my journey -early next morning, when the old man pressed me much to stop another -day. This I certainly would have done, had I not been afraid of being -more seriously attacked by fever and ague, as my quarters were very -pleasant, and the people extremely kind. A great many visitors came -with small presents during the remainder of the evening to inquire -after my health, as well<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</span> as for the purpose of seeing white man, to -all of whom I gave some trifling article in return. The thermometer -ranged at Jallakoo from 71° to 80°, Fahrenheit, which, it will be -observed, is much colder than on the coast in the coldest season.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19a" class="label">[19]</a> The names Tetay, Bosou, and Kudjo, are all common along -the coast from Whydah to Cape Coast, and are given from the days of the -week on which they are born.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>My continued Illness—The Koffo—The Langhbo—Bivouac—Keep -Sentinel—Shea-butter Trees—Springs impregnated with -Iron—Gijah—Poverty of the Caboceer—Hospitality of Atihoh, the -Merchant—Doko—Met by the Avoga of Whydah—Etiquette with regard to -the Time of entering a Town—Enter Abomey—My Servant Maurice takes -to his Bed—Sudden Change in the Temperature—Visit to the King—His -gratification at my safe Return—My Conversation with his Majesty—His -Views with regard to the Slave Trade—His desire to cede Whydah to the -English Government—Dictates a Letter to me to that effect—His Costly -Tobes—Singular Piece of Patch-Work.</p> -</div> - - -<p>August 21st.—Early in the morning I got up to prepare for the march, -but although the attack of ague had been lighter than on the previous -night, I still felt extremely weak and in low spirits. To remedy this, -I again resorted to another dose of sedative of opium, which in a -short time operated effectually. The caboceers and a great part of -the population accompanied me some distance out of the town, during -which the Jallakoo soldiers kept up a constant but irregular fire of -musketry. The old man then shook hands, expressing every good wish for -my future success, hoping that I should soon return to his country<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</span> -again, that he might see me once more before he should die. This solemn -expression made for a time a deep impression on my mind. Though in a -comparatively savage state this venerable patriarch was conscious that -the hand of death would soon be upon him.</p> - -<p>Our bearing was now SS.<abbr title="west">W.</abbr> and the plain thickly wooded with shea-butter -and other trees. The road was extremely bad, with rocks resembling -petrified wood of very fine grain with iron-stone rock. The grass was -eight feet long and resembled reeds. At ten miles and a half we crossed -the river Koffo, running NN.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr> and at seventeen and a half we crossed -the river Langhbo, running eastward. Being much fatigued, and still -suffering from fever, and no town or village near, we resolved to -encamp on the plain, near this river, where we were sure of obtaining -water. The grass being extremely long, we were obliged to cut it down, -wherever a party of ten or a dozen men selected a place to lie down. -Watch fires were also kindled around the camp, and fortunately, from -the ample means afforded at Jallakoo, we were pretty well stocked with -provisions for one night at least.</p> - -<p>This place not being far distant from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</span> Annagoo country, which -people in former times had frequently sent kidnapping parties -stealthily into the outskirts of the Dahoman kingdom, it was considered -necessary to keep sentinels and outposts during the night. Every man -also examined his piece to ascertain if the priming were good. I also -examined the caps of my own piece, but this seemed the reverse of -satisfactory.</p> - -<p>The caboceer asked me if I was afraid to trust myself with him, -assuring me that my guard, he knew, would perish to a man before they -would allow me to be molested. I admitted his assertion, but reminded -him that it was always prudent to be, as far as possible, prepared -for the worst. Still he assured me that his men were quite sufficient -for our protection. My cook immediately commenced preparing my supper -of boiled fowls and rice, with a few shalots, which made an agreeable -soup. This, although suffering much from fever, I relished much. I then -took another dose of opium, and soon under its powerful influence fell -fast asleep.</p> - -<p>August 22d.—Early in the morning we again prepared for the march. -Several of my men felt the effects of sleeping on the wet ground. I -also<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</span> for a time felt a cold, shivering sensation, but before mounting -my horse, I took some James’s powder, and, as soon as the sun arose, I -got into a copious perspiration, which considerably relieved me. Our -bearing was now SS.<abbr title="east">E.</abbr>; the plain still studded with shea butter-trees -and small shrubs; the road still bad, and worn very deep, like narrow -sheep-tracks.</p> - -<p>After marching for twelve miles very rapidly among small rocks, and -across several deeply sunken streams, we passed a great number of shea -butter-trees, which had been lately scorched to destroy the fruit. Here -we found several excellent springs, impregnated with iron, strongly -carbonized, of which I took a copious draught, which proved very -refreshing to me. The road now began to improve, the surface changing -into clay and sand of a drab colour. The stream, for the distance -of two miles, ran along the path, which formed a channel. This gave -my poor fellows an opportunity of cooling their feet, now much cut -and bruised from the bad roads. I halted here for nearly an hour to -give them an opportunity of refreshing themselves, and filling their -calabashes with this water, which was much superior to that which we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</span> -were carrying. During the whole of this time, many of my men remained -standing in the water.</p> - -<p>At twenty miles we arrived at the town of Gijah, which is a fine open -town of considerable size. The caboceer, though represented to be a -very good and generous character, was extremely poor, consequently, -after calling upon him, and the usual forms of reception had been -observed, we accepted the kind invitation of a wealthy merchant named -Atihoh, who entertained us in a most courteous manner, and in less than -an hour supplied us with abundance of provisions ready cooked, with a -calabash filled with the finest gwabas I ever saw, and plenty of very -good peto. During the evening the caboceer, Agballah, and his head men, -sent me ten large calabashes filled with provision. He did not visit me -till I sent for him, assigning as a reason that he was ashamed of his -poverty.</p> - -<p>The poor old man seemed much pleased when I assured him that I was as -glad to see him, as if he had been the richest caboceer in the Dahoman -kingdom. He replied, “White man must be good man, for black man don’t -want to see poor caboceer.” I presented him with a piece of cloth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</span> and -some little articles of hardware, which appeared to give him great -satisfaction. I also gave each of his head men some trifling presents.</p> - -<p>They were conscious of their master’s poverty, but seemed anxious to -assist him as much as possible, for they sent me, in the caboceer’s -name, twenty-three very large calabashes, filled with provision; -so that with several smaller presents from some of the principal -inhabitants, myself and people were amply supplied with every thing -necessary. During the evening we were visited by great numbers of the -inhabitants, who seemed much gratified with an opportunity of seeing a -white man.</p> - -<p>August 23d.—Early in the morning my host paid me the usual morning -visit, bringing me a few choice dishes for my own breakfast, and -also a present of one goat, several fowls, one large African duck, -and a number of rare pigeons with feathered legs and toes, and ten -large dishes of provision for my soldiers. Soon after breakfast we -marched for Doko, accompanied for a short distance by the caboceer and -head-men, attended by about twenty of his soldiers, who kept up an -irregular firing of muskets as far as they accompanied us.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</span></p> - -<p>After leaving the town the distance of three miles, the road again -became very bad, and my little horse lost one of its shoes, and soon -began to show its loss. However, this day’s journey was a very short -one, and we marched at a very rapid rate, which, in short journeys, -we always found less fatiguing than marching at a slow rate, and -remaining long on foot, exposed to the sun. At twelve miles we arrived -at Doko, where we were met by the caboceer and his elder brother, the -caboceer of Whydah, who had remained at Abomey ever since I had left -that capital for the Mahee and Fellattah country. He had been sent this -stage to meet me by order of his Majesty.</p> - -<p>The caboceer of Whydah is called the avoga, or captain, caboceer of -white men, which accounts for his being sent instead of Mayho, to meet -me. He being an excellent fellow, I felt much gratification in thus -unexpectedly meeting him. Awassoo, the caboceer of Doko, having already -been acquainted with my intended visit, had prepared dinner for myself -and party, which consisted of twenty-two large dishes of provision. -The avoga had also brought with him plenty of liquors of different -descriptions, which were very freely distributed among the people. I -was now considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</span> recovered from the effects of my fever, so that -I could take part in their merriment and jest. My guard were now near -home, and, although two days before, the poor fellows were worn out -with fatigue and foot-sore, they were now all life and jollity over -their peto-pots, in which they indulged very freely. Merriment was kept -up till a late hour, and this being a small town, nearly the whole of -the inhabitants came to bid us welcome.</p> - -<p>Aug. 24th.—About sunrise we began to prepare for marching, but as our -journey was a very short one, we remained several hours longer, so that -we might arrive at Abomey about mid-day. It is a custom in Dahomey for -all strangers of note visiting that capital to enter the town when the -sun is at its meridian. This is considered to be a necessary observance -for all distinguished visitors.</p> - -<p>Upon entering the outer gates of Abomey, we were met by Mayho, and -several distinguished members of his Majesty’s household, with an -additional band of music, which played till my arrival at my old -quarters. Upon entering, I must confess I felt great satisfaction, and -a feeling of gratitude to the Great Ruler of all things flashed over -my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</span> mind. My first inquiry was, whether my white servant, Maurice, -whom I sent back from Baffo, was still alive, not finding him in the -apartment formerly occupied by him. I was told he was still alive, and -until he heard the sound of the drums announcing my return was walking -about occasionally, and giving directions respecting his cooking; Mayho -having appointed a cook and other attendants to wait on him. But on our -entering the gates he took to his bed, and never again seemed to rally. -I visited him immediately, but found him much reduced. He told me that -every attention had been paid to him, and that the King had appointed -a native doctor to attend him, but he was now suffering from dysentery -and quite exhausted.</p> - -<p>I used the prescribed remedies as far as my means extended, but having -no European provision, I was compelled to do the best I could with -him upon native diet. I had great difficulty in convincing him of my -forgiveness for his conduct, which I have already mentioned. He fancied -that my intention was upon my return to the coast to deliver him up to -the authorities for punishment; and I cannot help thinking that in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</span> -spite of my assurance to the contrary, the poor fellow would never -believe that I should not do so.</p> - -<p>Aug. 25th.—The weather now suddenly became alarmingly cold for an -African climate. This was accompanied with heavy rains. During the -night the thermometer fell to 70°, and at noon on the following day -did not rise higher than 77° Fahrenheit. In the night many of my -people caught cold, as well as myself. My poor servant Maurice was -still extremely low, and without any hopes of recovery. I ordered some -warm water and soap to be brought to me, and with my sponge I washed -the whole of his person. At the same time I changed the whole of his -clothes and had them washed.</p> - -<p>The King now sent for me to the palace, where he received me with -every mark of kindness and respect; and after shaking me heartily by -the hand, immediately proposed the health of the Queen of England and -all the royal family. In return, of course, I proposed the health of -himself. My own health was next drank, after which the King gave me a -familiar slap on the back with his open hand, saying, “White man don’t -know proper fear, nor take proper care. In black man’s country,” he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</span> -said, “I make him much fear, when he hear I go into far country beyond -Mahee,” meaning the Fellattah country. This was conveyed to me by my -own interpreter. He asked me, what the Queen of England would say if I -had been killed, when in his care or under his protection. He added, -that all white men would say, his own people had killed me, and that -would bring shame upon his head.</p> - -<p>He, however, expressed his great satisfaction at my safe return, and -put a thousand questions to me respecting the Fellattah country, and -whether they mentioned his name there, together with numerous questions -respecting their soldiers. He next spoke upon the Slave Trade, and -asked if I could not make intercession with Her Majesty of England to -send an order to our men-of-war not to take any slave ships till they -had entirely left the coast. I told him that it would be more for his -advantage that the slaves should be captured by English men-of-war, as -a greater number would be required to fill their places.</p> - -<p>His reply was very different to what I had expected. He explained, -that although he supposed many white men believed he sold the greater -part of the slaves sent from that country, he could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</span> assure me it -was not the case; but the caboceers, whose soldiers captured them, -were always considered to be the owners of slaves taken in war, when -the enemy were the aggressors, with the exception of those who were -considered unfit for the market. These latter were considered to be -his (the King’s) property, and were sent to the different palaces to -assist in the duties of those establishments; but he admitted that all -prisoners taken by his wives, or female soldiers, were his property, -and that the caboceers always pay a nominal duty upon all slaves taken -in war when sold. From various inquiries I was informed that by far -the greater number of slaves transported from this country are either -the property of those on whose establishments they are bred, or are -purchased from the parents who are free; though at the decease of any -caboceer, the whole of his property is considered as belonging to the -King. The present King, however, seldom exercises his authority on -these occasions.</p> - -<p>They asked the reason why Englishmen had abandoned the Slave-Trade, and -how we obtained people to perform labour. I told him that Englishmen -were now disgusted with the conduct of their forefathers in making a -property of the poor black<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</span> man, who, because he was uneducated, was -sold like sheep, and sent to a far country, and there compelled to -labour for the remainder of his life in bondage; that Englishmen had -paid an enormous sum of money for the liberation of their slaves, and -were determined that the black man should be considered on an equality -with a white man, and were endeavouring to teach them “sense,” the term -he used for education. He had reminded me, that he had sent some boys -and girls to the Mission-school at Cape Coast to learn <i>sense</i>, -like white men, saying that he could (when they returned) communicate -directly with the English governor at Cape Coast without sending his -messages through the Spanish or Portuguese.</p> - -<p>To the next question, I replied, we could get plenty of labourers to -work voluntarily, by paying them sufficient to keep them in food and -clothing; but he declared that unless a slave, black man would never do -any work except on his own plantation. However, he expressed his high -opinion of Englishmen for condescending to put themselves upon the same -level as black men, at the same time remarking that it was no wonder -his father always taught him to respect an Englishman.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</span></p> - -<p>He admitted our principles to be very humane and just, but remarked, -that it would be difficult to abolish slave-holding in his country, -as the children of all slaves were the property of the owner of the -parent, and were treated as one of his own family; and that if a king -were to interfere and abolish this law, it would cause a revolution -in the kingdom, as it would affect all his head men and half heads, -besides rendering those domestic slaves homeless and destitute.</p> - -<p>I told him it was not domestic slavery that we so much objected to, -as the forcing them from their homes and kindred, separating them for -ever from all relatives, and dooming them to incessant labour all -their lives. He asked me whether, when parents voluntarily sold their -children, they would then feel any regret. I replied, if the parents -did not, they were unnatural, and I was sure that the children would; -and to illustrate this, I pointed out a she-goat with two kids, and -asked him if one were taken away, whether the young would not show -symptoms of regret as well as the mother. At this he laughed heartily, -but remarked, that the he-goat, the father of the kids referred to, -would feel quite indifferent. I could not help smiling in return.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</span></p> - -<p>The King touched his forehead with his fingers, saying, Englishman -was wonderful and good man. He then declared that for his own part -he had no wish to maintain the Slave-Trade, neither did he wish to -store riches. All he required was to have sufficient income to pay his -officers and caboceers the usual quantity of cowries to present his -people with, as is usual at the annual custom. This was the full extent -of his ambition.</p> - -<p>I then proposed to him that he should extend agriculture, and establish -a permanent trade, which would be encouraged by all civilized nations; -and observed, that by imposing a slight duty upon all articles of -trade, besides the profits he might obtain, a revenue would be created -for him much superior to what he derived from the slave-dealing. -He replied, that he was very willing to adopt the proposed measure -if England would only make some proposals to him on the subject. I -explained at some length the nature and system of trade, with which -he was quite unacquainted. He remarked that he had been informed, we -had condescended to make treaties with and had sent missionaries to -the Calabar and Bonny rivers, to the petty chiefs of those places, -whose treaties could be of no permanent duration or benefit, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</span> they -possessed no territory, nor had they any fixed laws; besides, they were -always involved in wars with the petty neighbouring states; so that -they were often chiefs to-day, and had their heads cut off the next; -that they could neither ensure any permanent trade with us, nor afford -us any protection in the event of our establishing factories at any of -these places.</p> - -<p>He said he should be ready and very glad to make any reasonable -arrangement with the English Government for the abolition of slavery, -and the establishment of another trade, and added, that though he had -invited us to send missionaries to his country to advise with him, none -but one English fetishman, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Freeman, the Wesleyan missionary (of -whom he spoke highly), had visited him; that all he wanted was to see -plenty of Englishmen in his kingdom, and especially in his capital. He -also offered to build them houses to live in, without any charge, and -give them as much land as they chose to cultivate.</p> - -<p>He expressed his ardent desire to encourage cultivation and a system of -agriculture; and reminded me, that he had long ago issued orders that -all the spare land in and round the town of Griwhee (Whydah) should be -cultivated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</span> with a view of lessening the chances of epidemic diseases. -He also expressed his earnest desire to give up Whydah to the English -Government, with full powers to exercise our own laws and customs; and -also declared his readiness to afford us every necessary assistance and -protection, and to give us any quantity of land in the vicinity of that -settlement we might require for agricultural purposes.</p> - -<p>He added, that when we should have obtained possession of Whydah, -we should have power to use our own discretion respecting the -Slave-Trade; and that, as Whydah was the principal residence of the -greatest slave-dealers on this part of the coast, we could with much -more propriety exert our authority to prevent slave traffic than he -himself, particularly as he was under great obligations to a certain -large slave-merchant in that settlement. He said, moreover, that he -had always entertained a hope that some day or other the English -would again establish themselves in Whydah, in consequence of which -he had always kept a temporary governor in the English fort since our -abandonment of the place.</p> - -<p>He declared that he would build us a new fort, either on the old site, -or on any other spot, upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</span> our own plan, and at his own expense. He -had, he said, refused possession of Whydah to the Prince de Joinville, -stating his determination to treat with none but the Queen of England, -who was the greatest of all white sovereigns; that he had for a length -of time been endeavouring to establish, as far as he was able, a code -of laws similar to those of England; for he considered them to be more -just in most cases than the old Dahoman laws, which he confessed to -be very absurd. But, though he thought so, still as many of the old, -absurd customs, which still existed, were of a comparatively harmless -nature, he had hitherto permitted them to remain, as he considered -it dangerous amongst a people so long accustomed to these usages to -revolutionize the whole at once; but he approved of commencing with the -most unreasonable and injurious, and gradually progressing, as in fact -he had done. He also assured me that the good effects of his new laws -were manifest even in the Mahee country, for within the last two years -several petty kingdoms in that and the Annagoo country had voluntarily -been ceded to his government.</p> - -<p>He dictated to me a letter to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, -in which he formally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</span> ceded Whydah to the English Government. After -this letter was concluded, he requested me to read it over, lest any -mistake should have occurred; and when he found it satisfactory, he -held the upper end of the pen while I signed his name. We then drank -to the health of her Britannic Majesty, during which a constant fire -of musketry was kept up. I next proposed the King of Dahomey’s health, -which was followed by his drinking my own health. He then ordered an -immense quantity of variegated umbrellas, or rather canopies, to be -brought out for my inspection, and requested me to make a memorandum of -several of their patterns, desiring me to order a number of them to be -sent from England.</p> - -<p>He afterwards showed me about forty tobes of the most costly embroidery -in gold and silver, on a ground of silk velvet of various colours. I -was also shown a piece of patch-work, which I believe I have previously -alluded to, which the King boasted was composed of remnants or -specimens of cloth from every country of the civilized world, as well -as every country in Africa. This piece of patch-work, I was informed, -measures one thousand yards in length, and eight yards in breadth. I -was next desired to take a drawing of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</span> the King’s throne or chair of -state. This is a very handsome and ingenious piece of carving, from one -solid piece of wood. It has three seats, one elevated about two feet -above the other, the first and second forming steps to the highest; on -the highest the King never sits except on state occasions. Three skulls -form a foot-stool to the first seat being those of three kings killed -in battle.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img003"> -<img src="images/003.jpg" class="w50" alt="A skull on a stick and skulls on a podium" /> -</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued—Visit Coomassie, -another Palace of the King—Great Number of Human Skulls—Skulls of -Kings taken in Battle—Death-drums—Peculiarity of Skulls—Craniums -of the Fellattahs—Skulls of Rival Kings—Criminal Case heard by -the King, and his Award—Death of my Servant Maurice—Regret of -the King—Christian Burial of my Servant—The King’s Kindness to -me—My increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits—Method of -Procuring Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers—My Alarm at -the Dangerous State of my Wound—Make Preparations to amputate -my Limb—My Recovery—My last Conversation with the King—The -King’s Presents to the Queen of England—Present from him to her -Majesty of a Native Girl—Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for -Whydah—Absurd Custom—Canamina—Ahgrimah—My Pigeons from the Kong -Mountains—Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers—Punishment awarded them -for their Roguery on their Arrival.</p> -</div> - - -<p>August 26th.—The King again sent for me to visit him at the palace. -He met me in his usual familiar manner, with a hearty shake of the -hand, and a familiar slap on my back with his open hand. A table had -been already spread with the necessary viands. He proposed the Queen -of England’s health; after which he wished me to proceed to a large -palace, about a mile distant, called Coomassie, (after the capital -of Ashantee),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</span> there to take the plan and dimensions of a number -of different sized war tents. These displayed ingenuity and taste, -superior to many European nations. The King ordered a number similar -to them to be made in England, and sent to him as soon as possible. -This palace was built and named about the time when the present King -threw off his allegiance to the kingdom of Ashantee, the King of which -formerly boasted that he could hold Dahomey in vassalage.</p> - -<p>After the building of this palace, the King of Dahomey declared himself -capable of holding Ashantee in vassalage. The palace is considered -memorable on this account. In this as well in several other palaces we -visited on this day, we were entertained with every variety of luxuries -used at the King’s table. Upon my return to his Majesty, I found a -number of people busily employed in carrying out of the stores a number -of human skulls, taken in various countries during the wars. Previous -to my journey into the mountains, I had made a request to the King for -leave to inspect a few skulls of natives of the different countries -he had conquered, with the view of comparing them, and also to make -drawings of some of them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</span></p> - -<p>When between two and three thousand skulls had been carried out and -placed in the parade-ground in front of the palace, I begged the King -not to send for any more. His state chair was placed in the centre of a -circle, formed by arranging the large calabashes or gourds containing -the skulls, in that form. The heads of the kings were placed in large -brass pans, about two feet in diameter. The heads of caboceers and -head-men were in calabashes about the same size as the former; and -to my great astonishment, when curiosity prompted me to make inquiry -respecting any one of these skulls, a long detail was immediately given -me of all the circumstances connected with the parties when alive.</p> - -<p>Though these people do not write, with the exception of the Mohammedan -portion of them, yet they possess very retentive memories. The -death-drums were also brought out on this occasion. They were four in -number, and of different sizes, but much larger than the large drums -in use in the British army. The largest measured nine feet four inches -in length, and the whole were ornamented with human skulls, several of -which I observed were deficient of any suture across the upper part. -This appeared in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</span> proportion of one in twelve, and the skulls -without any longitudinal division were as one in twenty-seven. I found -the skulls of the Mahees generally to recede from the nasal bone or -lower part of the forehead to the top in a greater angle than those of -any other country.</p> - -<p>The Fellattahs are very different in their cranium and general -development from the others, having high, square foreheads, and a quick -and bright eye. They are slighter in person than either the Dahomans -or Mahees; but are generally well formed, sinewy in their limbs, and -capable of enduring great fatigue. The Dahomans are a very fine and -generally tall race of people, both male and female, and the most -honest of any people I ever met with.</p> - -<p>It is worthy of remark, that unlike any other uncivilized people I have -seen, during my stay at Abomey I was never asked by any individual for -an article of even the most trifling value, nor ever lost anything, -except what was stolen by my people from the coast. The Dahoman -laws are certainly severe, but they have the desired effect. In the -collection of skulls, I found a number of them ornamented with brass, -and rivetted together with iron. These were the heads of rival kings, -who were killed by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</span> the King’s women, or wives. Amongst these was the -richly ornamented skull of the King of Nahpoo, in the Annagoo country; -his name was Adaffo. His town was taken, and he himself made prisoner, -by the female regiments, commanded by the female commander, Apadomey. -Many of the skulls still retained the hair. It appears that this -part of the human body has always been a favourite ornament on the -palace-walls of Abomey, and even in the walls, entrance of gateways, -and doorways; though the present King has not placed them on the walls -of the new palace called Coomassie.</p> - -<p>A guard is mounted every morning at each of the palaces, and there -is a resident governor. After taking several drawings of the skulls -of several kings killed in war, his Majesty invited me to be present -at the trial of a prisoner who had been brought from a town in the -Mahee country, where he had already been tried, upon an accusation of -adultery with one of the caboceers’ wives, and the sentence of death -had been passed upon him. The man, however, being conscious of his -innocence, appealed to the Court of Abomey, where all the witnesses -were again examined and cross-questioned by the King himself.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</span> It was -now distinctly proved that the whole was a false accusation, and the -poor fellow was immediately liberated; but the caboceer, who had been -his accuser, and fourteen of his false witnesses, were seized and -imprisoned for trial on a future day, when doubtless the whole of them -would suffer death.</p> - -<p>The King, with great satisfaction, pointed out to me the beneficial -effects of this new law which he had made, observing that formerly, in -the Mahee country, when a caboceer felt animosity against a person in -his power, he could at any time get up an accusation against him, and -also ensure such evidence as would suit his purpose; but that now the -accused had the power of appealing to the court of Abomey, which had -been the means of effectually checking such practices, as he invariably -put the accusers to death when he found the accused to be innocent.</p> - -<p>As I felt very unwell and feverish, I begged the King to allow me to -return to my quarters, which he readily acceded to, and with his usual -kindness inquired if he could do any thing for me. He walked with me -nearly to my dwelling, during which a continual fire of musketry was -kept up until I entered my own gates.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</span></p> - -<p>I found my servant, Maurice, still weaker, and could not prevail on -him to partake of any nourishment. It was now evident that his earthly -career was near its termination. I asked him if he would like me to -read prayers to him; and intimated to him the near approach of his -dissolution. He consented to my reading prayers; but said, he thought -he should recover. I asked him to give me his father’s address, so that -in the event of his death I might write to him; but, for what reason -I am at a loss to imagine, he refused to give it me, but confessed -that he had been using a false name; and that his father’s name was -not Maurice. He expressed a wish to be carried to Whydah, which was -speedily arranged to be done on the following morning. My fever -increasing, I was now compelled to go to bed.</p> - -<p>Early on the 27th August the carriers reported themselves ready -to proceed with Maurice to Whydah. By this time, my fever had -so increased, that from giddiness I was unable to stand without -assistance; and poor Maurice, being brought in upon the hammock, -proved to be in a dying state; and in a few minutes afterwards expired -without a struggle. A messenger was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</span> immediately sent to the King to -inform him of the melancholy fact, who expressed extreme regret at it, -remarking that he feared the occurrence might prevent other Englishmen -from visiting him; but I told him that it was the will of God, and that -no person was to blame; on the contrary, that every thing had been -done which our means afforded. The King then ordered four men to dig -a grave for Maurice, and sent me a flask of rum to give the carriers -and grave-diggers. He also sent two fine cloths to wrap the body in. -He would not allow it to be interred in the sepulchre appointed for -strangers, but it was buried in the court-yard in front of Mayho’s -house, with every mark of respect.</p> - -<p>Great attention was paid by all the spectators during the -burial-service, which I read. I was now left without a white man, and, -for a moment, I felt the loneliness of my situation. This melancholy -feeling was augmented by my severe indisposition. My wounded leg began -to swell and to become discoloured. In the afternoon, the King sent -for me to come and see him, if possible. I felt myself unable to walk, -but was carried in a hammock to the palace. The King seemed in great -trouble at my illness. He told<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</span> me that he had sent for me to show me -an elephant which had been killed by one of Mayho’s soldiers. He wished -to know if I could preserve a part of it to take with me to Whydah, -for which place I intended to proceed in a few days. I told him that I -was afraid I could not preserve it, so as to be able to carry it with -me; he promised to send me a dish of the flesh for my dinner on the -following day.</p> - -<p>He begged me to join in drinking the health of the Queen of England -and the whole of the Royal Family, in cherry brandy, which he strongly -recommended as beneficial in all cases of fever. This I did: he then -informed me that he had a regiment of female soldiers (his wives), as -well as a regiment of males, on the parade in front of the palace, -waiting to show me how they procured their food when in the bush.</p> - -<p>At that moment, I felt myself a much fitter subject for my mat or -bed; but, as this parade was got up entirely for my gratification, I -determined to remain as long as possible. Accordingly, I accompanied -the King to the parade-ground, where we found the male and female -soldiers formed in line, with front and rear ranks, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</span> latter on the -right. At seventy yards’ distance from their front was a high swish, -or clay wall, parallel with the line of soldiers. Close to this were -fastened, by pegs driven into the ground, a number of sheep, goats, -ducks, guinea-fowls, and the common fowl. The whole were placed in that -position for the purpose of illustrating the method by which the army -procured its food when on march in the bush, which abounds with game. -Each of the soldiers was armed either with a long Danish or English -musket, charged with iron bullets.</p> - -<p>The females commenced firing from the right, advancing one pace to the -front in succession, as they came to the present. I was certainly much -surprised to see the certainty of their deadly aim. Although at seventy -yards distance, very few missed their object; and I did not observe -one who fired wide of a man’s body. The female commanders presented me -with eight large Muscovy ducks and some Guinea-fowls. The male soldiers -fired with even more precision than the females, but I believe that the -whole of them were picked shots; but even if that were the case, the -feat was astonishing, and would have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</span> done credit to our best riflemen. -I became so much exhausted and sick at the stomach at last, that I was -obliged to be immediately carried home. My leg, also, was now very much -swollen, and darker in colour, and became very painful, with every -symptom of gangrene or mortification. I confess I felt considerable -alarm at observing these symptoms so rapidly increasing. By this -time, however, I had become inured to hardships and suffering, and -had learned to set little value upon my life, and could very readily -have reconciled myself to share the same grave with poor Maurice. My -principal anxiety was respecting my Journal, a great part of which -was only in notes; consequently the probability was that my kind and -generous patrons would never get possession of it, though this was the -only tribute of gratitude I should ever have it in my power to return -them. I, therefore, made up my Journal and papers in the form of a -parcel, addressed to the Geographical Society, with strict injunctions -to my servants to forward them to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton of Cape Coast.</p> - -<p>My people were very much alarmed at my condition, as were also Mayho -and the King’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</span> messengers, who visited me every two hours. My leg was -still rapidly getting worse, the blackness progressing upwards. I now -began to measure my time, calculating upon my death before morning. I -had seen several amputations performed, and came to the determination -to attempt to amputate my own leg, should it appear absolutely -necessary. In the meantime, I ordered poultices to be prepared from -Indian corn meal, and yeast from the peto. This was immediately -applied. I then had all my amputating instruments placed in readiness, -with the necessary quantity of bandages; and I instructed my people -what they were to do in the event of my fainting while endeavouring -to perform the operation. They did not seem altogether to relish my -instructions, but promised to do their best in obedience to my orders.</p> - -<p>It may be considered that madness alone could have suggested such an -attempt; but it must also be observed, that necessity under certain -circumstances urges the performance of many things bordering on -impossibilities; and in despair we are always ready to grasp even at a -shadow of hope.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</span></p> - -<p>However, thank God! I had not occasion to make the attempt. The -poultices had the desired effect, for in the morning the swelling -was considerably reduced, and the colour turned from black to a pink -or light purple colour, except round the wound, which sloughed, and -the flesh dropped from the bone, causing much pain. Mayho visited me -early, and seemed much pleased when I informed him of my improvement. -My spirits also were much revived, and having some remnants of cotton -print left, I made a frock for Mayho’s youngest boy, with which he -seemed very much pleased. I also made Mayho a waistcoat of the same -material.</p> - -<p>On the 28th I was able to visit the King, to whom I intimated a wish -to depart on the following day for Whydah. He said that he felt very -reluctant to part with me, and wished very much that I would remain in -his capital; at the same time admitting the necessity of my hurrying -home to deliver his message to the Queen of England, and expressing -his great disappointment that <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Freeman had not visited him a second -time. He again spoke very highly of him, and expressed a great wish to -have an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</span> English missionary and school for mechanics in his capital. He -begged me to point out the necessity of this upon my return to England.</p> - -<p>The King now ordered Mayho to get carriers ready for my departure for -the coast. The bullocks and goats, which had been presented to me, had -been forwarded already, leaving only the bipeds which were to accompany -me when I should leave. His Majesty sent me a present of three pieces -of royal cloth, as well as two pieces for the Queen of England, as -specimens of their manufacture. He also sent a very handsome young girl -as a present for Her Majesty. This child was about seven years old, and -was the daughter of a Mahee king, killed in the late war. He also sent -me eighteen heads of cowries, valued at the same number of dollars, to -defray my expenses to Whydah, and two kegs of rum to treat my people -with, with his best wishes for my welfare, and hoping I should soon -return to visit his kingdom.</p> - -<p>During the whole of my stay in Abomey I had received the most unbounded -kindness from the King, as well as from his principal officers, and, -as I have before stated, I had never been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</span> solicited for any thing by -way of dash or present. But I had in my possession a walking-stick, -which contained a spring dagger; this the King seemed to admire much, -I therefore asked him to accept it as a present, for which he heartily -thanked me, saying that he should be very glad to do so when I returned -from the Kong Mountains, remarking that in all probability I should -meet with some very bad people while in the Mahee country. After my -return I offered him the stick, which he again refused, saying that -he would wait till I had safely arrived at Griwhee (Whydah). He would -send a messenger with me thither for the purpose of carrying it back to -Abomey. He also ordered three caboceers to accompany me on my journey -to the coast.</p> - -<p>All was now arranged for my departure on the following morning. I was -still very weak, and quite lame from the large wound in my leg, which -was on the lower part of the calf, four inches in length and about -one and a half in breadth; but my little horse had now recovered from -his long journey, and was in high condition for another. I therefore -resolved to pursue my journey, as I had intended.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</span></p> - -<p>August 29th.—At daybreak a messenger came before I arose from my mat, -to inquire after the state of my health, with orders to ascertain -whether I considered myself quite capable of undertaking my journey, -to which I replied in the affirmative. In a short time afterwards -breakfast was sent as usual, and a number of my carriers arrived.</p> - -<p>It is always considered consistent with court etiquette here, as I have -previously stated, that a stranger visiting his Majesty should arrive -and depart from the capital as nearly as possible when the sun is at -its meridian, consequently various excuses were made to detain me till -that period, when I was escorted out of the town by my excellent old -friend Mayho, and many more of the principal men, with a band of music, -till we crossed the bridge over the moat outside the town walls. Here I -was given up to the charge of the three caboceers before mentioned.</p> - -<p>About two hundred yards from the gates is a fetish-house, in passing -which all persons are compelled to dismount, if carried, and walk past -a certain distance; but the King had very kindly forwarded an order to -the fetish-man, to allow me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</span> to ride, on account of my lameness, at -which every man seemed much amazed, saying that no man ever rode over -the same ground before.</p> - -<p>I was very much surprised to see one of my fowls tied by the feet lying -at the door of the fetish-house, which of course led to some inquiries. -I was informed that while the man carrying my fowls was passing the -place, this cock had crowed, and consequently he had become the -property of the head fetishman. The man who carried the basket had not -proceeded farther, but waited till I arrived, to explain the matter. I -made some objections to submit to such a ridiculous custom, whereupon a -messenger was immediately sent to the King, who sent an order to give -up the cock, and also intimated that it was not his wish to compel an -Englishman to observe black man’s laws, remarking that Englishmen can -do no wrong.</p> - -<p>When we arrived at Canamina we overtook two of my carriers, who, though -big, strong-looking men, were quite exhausted, and unable to proceed. -Had I been furnished with female carriers, I should have found no -difficulty. However, I hired an assistant carrier, before I could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</span> get -the men to proceed. After a tiresome ride, we arrived at Ahgrimah. When -dismounting I was quite exhausted, and my leg and foot swollen so much, -that my cloth boot had burst, and I suffered very much for upwards -of two hours from pain in my wound. Here I was much amused with the -pigeons which I had brought from the Kong Mountains. Though I had three -different specimens, all rare, they had now become so much reconciled -to each other as to be all of one family, as it were.</p> - -<p>Whenever we halted for the night, and they were released from the gourd -in which they were carried, they never attempted to leave me, but kept -walking to and fro, near the spot where I lay, till they were fed; and -when darkness came on, they huddled themselves close to my person. I -was very much annoyed here on account of several of my carriers not -arriving, particularly as my camp-kettle had not come. I managed, -however, to get a meal from the natives.</p> - -<p>Aug. 30th.—As soon as I awoke I inquired after my luggage, and found -that two of my principal boxes had not arrived. Whereupon I despatched -a trusty messenger, sent by Mayho<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</span> to accompany me to Whydah to carry -back my coat, which I had promised that excellent old man, being the -only thing I now possessed worth his acceptance. He hastened back -to Abomey, to report the delay to his master, who had furnished the -carriers. Mayho immediately sent fresh men with orders to punish the -villains who had hung back, as, he said, he had himself examined each -of their loads, and found them all considerably under the regulated -weight for carriers.</p> - -<p>At last the men arrived, accompanied by my messenger and fresh -carriers, late in the afternoon. Immediately on their arrival, the -offenders were brought before the caboceers for judgment; and, after a -short palaver, they were sentenced to be beaten with a stick as many -times as I should deem sufficient. Two men were sent into the bush -for some rods, who soon returned with five, about one yard in length -and about the thickness of a man’s middle finger. The offenders were -then ordered to kneel down before me to receive their punishment; -but although they had been the cause of much uneasiness to me, I -could not consent to such a severe mode of punishment,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</span> particularly -as all my Dahoman people had hitherto conducted themselves well; I -therefore ordered them both to be released, for they had already been -pinioned. The poor fellows were very grateful for this act of kindness: -the caboceers also were much gratified, and my day’s detention was -beneficial in resting my lame leg.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Akpway—Superstition of the Natives—Singular proceeding of my -Bullock-Drivers—Arrival at Whydah—Kind Reception by Don Francisco -de Suza—Kindness of all the Merchants—Parting Interview with M. de -Suza—Sail for Cape Coast—Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the -Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea—Arrival at Cape Coast—Kindness -of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton—<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Lilley—Recover from my Fever—Kindness of the -Wesleyan Missionaries—General Character of Africans—Hints with -regard to Educating them—Observations on the Manners and Customs of -the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries—Enlightened Conduct of -the King of Dahomey—The Dahomans—Trade of Dahomey—Paganism—The -Mahees—The Kong Mountains—Sail for England.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Aug. 31st.—We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed -through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some -refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived -at Whyboe, where we halted for the night.</p> - -<p>Sept. 1st.—In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen -across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its -thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Here<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</span> the whole of my -party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove -the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had -placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was -fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed -it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat -ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther, -a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me -that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me -some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut -off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I -found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported -sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey.</p> - -<p>Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when, -at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven -my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head -was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed -no farther, they thought it best to kill it, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</span> dispose of the meat -in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal -had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the -satisfaction of ocular demonstration.</p> - -<p>Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return -to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very -cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so -kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering -the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man -was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused -to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated -me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more -gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the -King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to -assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill -of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King; -but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though -they must have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</span> cost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to -let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in -his extensive stores was at my service.</p> - -<p>Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay, -and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends -anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> R. Hanson, agent -for <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my -journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered -me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my -return to Whydah. I also received great kindness from <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> James Hanson, -of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced -every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans, -French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during -my residence in Whydah.</p> - -<p>My state of health was but little better for some time, though the -wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my -return to Whydah, the <i>Jane</i> of London, Captain Lee, Commander, -arrived in the roadstead, to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</span> take in goods for <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton. The captain -had suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him -I feel indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of -animals, a free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail -on the 20th of September.</p> - -<p>The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to -bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He -begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from -his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at -my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him -that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my -bill, with which he declined to furnish me.</p> - -<p>At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long -good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help -feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with -traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for -he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man -on the coast of Africa,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</span> which character I am also bound to give him so -far as I am concerned.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board the -<i>Jane</i>; <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by -furnishing carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is -distant two miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy -rains. The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the -sea, and consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to -go into the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey -mother, of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high -and the surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in -managing their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to -stern, filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it -is formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept -end on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from -the cotton-tree.</p> - -<p>The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe, -had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very -likely to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</span> remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as -the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the -surf, she called out for her Abomey mother.</p> - -<p>We soon got the water baled out and reached the <i>Jane</i> without -another washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but -the greater part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently -I remained on deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few -articles which undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself -that I was not a loser to a greater extent.</p> - -<p>The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded by -H.M.S. Brig <i>Ranger</i>, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the -following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain -Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from -so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh. -Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head -currents. On the following day the boats of the <i>Flying Fish</i>, -English war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of -the day, preparing letters for England, for which the <i>Jane</i> was -shortly to sail.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</span></p> - -<p>On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp -look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first -trip, of which the commander had received private information. This -vessel I afterwards learned was captured by the <i>Flying Fish</i>, in -spite of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, -of whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed -to British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war.</p> - -<p>On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised -by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the -town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met -upon landing by the officers of the garrison, and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton, who -had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to -become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire -strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast. -I returned, however, to my old quarters with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hutton, where every -attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was -on the coast, during the last few<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</span> weeks of which I suffered much from -fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my -earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle -by the acting governor, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon.</p> - -<p>I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt -beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted -powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided -entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and -frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually -increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down -and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon -as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied -with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of -water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every -five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced -copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I -experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness, -probably<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</span> from excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing -in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found -by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to -strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise -medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering -it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be -beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate.</p> - -<p>I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and -other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and -also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his -amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants -on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost -kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak -unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all -barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry. -I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from -the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation. -It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</span> is void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans -educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an -example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of -civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable -obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude; -though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading -the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books -of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not -thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively -little benefit.</p> - -<p>Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with: -first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so -that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn -the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school -the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated -population, and never use the English language except when in school. -They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many -instances a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</span> partial education is only the means of enabling them to -become more perfect in villany.</p> - -<p>I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some -healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of -industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial -results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be -selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of -their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the -variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one -branch of education alone.</p> - -<p>At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education, -that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight -knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance -to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any -trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks -to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively -few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many -instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</span> the -resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then -consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an -establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their -means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves -involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the -goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is -compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy, -where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany.</p> - -<p>Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations -upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah -countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the -present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important -of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices. -These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned -to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely -abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and -only allows them to sacrifice the lower<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</span> animals. Next I may mention -his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his -kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases -of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the -condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now -subject to Dahomey.</p> - -<p>The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both -the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in -either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height -of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are -well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of -Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take -much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey, -but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should -suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing -information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all -the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey.</p> - -<p>The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</span> Ivory is seldom brought -to the coast, except when smuggled, owing to the heavy duty imposed -upon it. The manufactures are limited, cloth being the only article; -but they excel in that article. The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly -level; the soil rich red loam; and, except in the immediate vicinity -of the capital, tolerably well watered. Gold is as abundant there as -in the Ashantee country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom -inquired after.</p> - -<p>The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended no farther in a northern -direction than the river Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth -degrees of north latitude. In marching in a north-easterly direction -from Abomey, the first of the Kong Mountains is situated in latitude -8° 20ʹ north, and extends in the same direction as far as 9° 30ʹ, -although mountains of less magnitude are met with of the table form, at -intervals, as far as 13° 6ʹ north.</p> - -<p>The Mahee people are lighter in colour than the Dahomans, and are very -active and hardy, lively in their disposition, but said to be very -revengeful; although, as I was under the patronage of the King, I did -not observe any thing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</span> in their characters which manifested this. The -females are considerably smaller than those of Dahomey, and may be -called rather good-looking, and, like the Dahomans, are very chaste; -though, as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to any extent. -They are all Pagans here, as well as in Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans -are to be found in the army of the latter, they are never interfered -with in their religious opinions.</p> - -<p>Formerly the government of the kingdom of Dahomey was despotic, still -the country has a much more civilized appearance than the petty states -under republican governments, which are generally involved in disputes -and wars.</p> - -<p>The Mahees appear to be a distinct people, independently of the -difference of colour. The general formation of their head differs -considerably from others. It is generally elongated from the ear -backwards, and the philoprogenitive organ is very prominent. The -frontal bone is seldom divided, and in many instances the upper part -of the skull, as I have previously stated, is without any division -whatever; but this is also the case in the Dahomans.</p> - -<p>The chin of the Mahees is generally shorter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</span> than that of the Dahomans, -or people near the coast; their lips are not so thick; their teeth -are very good, and they take great pains in cleaning them, which is -generally the case on the whole of the west coast, where it is a -universal custom, when not otherwise employed, to brush the teeth with -the end of what they term a chew-stick, generally a piece of the branch -of the gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-lead pencil. -They consider that chewing this kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably, -from the acid which it contains, it is superior to any other sort of -tooth-brush.</p> - -<p>On many parts of the west coast they sharpen the two front teeth in -the upper jaw by filing, or grinding off the angles, so as to bring -them to a narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skulls I found lighter -and thinner than the Annagoos, or Dahomans, or those on the coast, -many of the latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder part -of the skull, and of a spongy or porous nature. The nose of the Mahees -does not partake in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly -resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their manufactures, which -are composed of cloth, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</span> knitted night-caps, made exactly on the -same principle as in England. They are also clever in the manufacture -of iron, and are well acquainted with native dyes.</p> - -<p>The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are very temperate. They are -excellent cooks. Their dishes are generally soups, containing various -vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an oblong form, called -occro. This is considered very strengthening. I believe it might be -cultivated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very much resembling -the stramonium. Their fermented drink is peto, a native beer, which -I have already described. They attain a greater age than in flat, -low countries; and are very industrious in comparison with many -neighbouring countries. The King of Dahomey enforces cultivation over -all his dominions.</p> - -<p>The general composition of the Kong Mountains, occupied by the Mahees, -is granite, limestone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains or valleys -I found, protruding above the surface, large masses of fused iron mixed -with round pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which were nearly -as heavy as the pure ore. The outside<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</span> of these masses had a glazed -appearance. From the north to the south side this chain of mountains -does not exceed forty-five or fifty miles. The principal animals -occupying the Kong Mountains I have already noticed.</p> - -<p>The Fellattahs are a different race to either the Dahomans or Mahees. -They are a more warlike people than the Mahees; are light and active -in their movements, very courageous, but also revengeful and stubborn, -though I have been informed, that in a body they cannot fight a -losing battle. They are much intermixed with other tribes, and hold -great sway, occupying a very extensive territory, supposed to extend -from eight degrees west longitude to Bornou, and also a considerable -distance north and south. The real Fellattahs are much darker than the -Mahees, with high square frontal bone and well-proportioned head, in -general; hair, thick and woolly. They are more civilized and ingenious -than the Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers.</p> - -<p>Even the system of drainage has found its way to this remote region, -many of their indigo fields being well drained, as also those in the -Mahee country. Their trade is not very extensive, being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</span> chiefly -confined to their own locality, and is generally a system of barter, -though cowries and cloth are the general currency of the country. Their -mode of living is much the same as in the Mahee country but they use -less hogs’ flesh, and they eat both horses and dogs, and also several -species of serpents, frogs, and guanos.</p> - -<p>I sailed from Cape Coast for England in February, 1846. Previous to my -going on board, I had many little presents sent me, both in the shape -of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the merchants and natives in their -employment, as well as from the resident Missionaries. I also received -some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries who visited Cape -Coast on their way to the Calabar, or Bonny River, in one of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Jamieson’s ships; I believe one of them was <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waddel. Our vessel was -the <i>Albion</i> of Guernsey, a small schooner of only one hundred and -fifty tons; in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was very -uncomfortable.</p> - -<p>After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra, and took on board some -ivory and gold, remaining at the above place one day and a night. -During this time I went on shore to visit some of my old<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</span> friends, -amongst whom was <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Bannerman, whose kindness and hospitality are well -known, both to the naval and military officers who have ever visited -that settlement. I was also kindly received by the resident Wesleyan -Missionary.</p> - -<p>Here I found an American Missionary and his wife, accompanied by the -widow of a brother Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she was -apparently fast approaching to her long home. They were all in delicate -health, and were passing down the coast for a change of air, but were -obliged to leave the vessel.</p> - -<p>During my stay I received extreme kindness and attention at the -mission-house. I also called at the former residence of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hanson, -a merchant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain of Cape Coast, -and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> R. Hanson from Whydah, were both there. From these gentlemen I -experienced great kindness, both now as well as on former occasions. -Here I again found my old charger, who had carried me during my -long journey in the interior. He was now the property of the Rev. -William Hanson, and had only arrived a few days before from Whydah. -It had probably been taken little care of, for the poor animal was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</span> -much reduced in flesh. It recognised my voice, and when I spoke, it -immediately neighed and pawed the ground, anxious to come to me.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hanson, its owner, asked me to put a pair of fore-shoes on it, -remarking that it was the last act of kindness I should ever have an -opportunity of bestowing upon the noble little animal. This I readily -assented to: after which I proceeded on board, when we immediately set -sail for England; where, after a tedious and uncomfortable passage of -three months, we arrived. I had much improved in health during the -passage, though my accommodation was bad, for I was obliged to sleep -on deck during six weeks of the time, owing to the suffocating smell -from the heated corn, amongst which some of the palm-oil puncheons had -burst.</p> - - -<p class="center">RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER,</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">As observed in Dahomey from June 11 to July 7, 1845.</span></p> - -<table class="autotable bbox"> -<tr><th colspan="3" class="br">Rise and Fall during Day, from 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> to 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></th><th rowspan="2"><span class="smcap">Remarks.</span></th></tr> -<tr class="bb bt"><td class="tdc bl br">Date.</td><td class="tdc">Rise.</td><td class="tdc bl br">Fall.</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td class="tdc bl br">Deg.</td><td class="tdc bl br">Deg.</td><td class="tdc"></td></tr> -<tr><td>June 11</td><td class="tdc bl br">80</td><td class="tdc bl br">76</td><td class="tdc">In house, against clay wall.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   12</td><td class="tdc bl br">82</td><td class="tdc bl br">78</td><td class="tdc">In house.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   13</td><td class="tdc bl br">81</td><td class="tdc bl br">75</td><td class="tdc">Ditto.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   14</td><td class="tdc bl br">82 </td><td class="tdc bl br">76</td><td class="tdc">Ditto.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   15</td><td class="tdc bl br">80 </td><td class="tdc bl br">77</td><td class="tdc">Ditto.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   16</td><td class="tdc bl br">81 </td><td class="tdc bl br">76</td><td class="tdc">Ditto.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   17</td><td class="tdc bl br">80 </td><td class="tdc bl br">74</td><td class="tdc">Heavy tornado at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>; fall suddenly to 74°.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   18</td><td class="tdc bl br">82 </td><td class="tdc bl br">76 </td><td class="tdc"></td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   19</td><td class="tdc bl br">80 </td><td class="tdc bl br">74 </td><td class="tdc"></td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   20</td><td class="tdc bl br">81 </td><td class="tdc bl br">74 </td><td class="tdc"> </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   21</td><td class="tdc bl br">78 </td><td class="tdc bl br">74</td><td class="tdc">Unusually cold; natives feverish; cold and rainy season.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   22</td><td class="tdc bl br">78 </td><td class="tdc bl br">74</td><td class="tdc">Cloudy.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   23</td><td class="tdc bl br">78 </td><td class="tdc bl br">76</td><td class="tdc">Cloudy.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   24</td><td class="tdc bl br">82 </td><td class="tdc bl br">75</td><td class="tdc">Morning cloudy.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   25</td><td class="tdc bl br">77  </td><td class="tdc bl br">75  </td><td class="tdc">Cold and showery all day; tornado. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   26</td><td class="tdc bl br">81  </td><td class="tdc bl br">74  </td><td class="tdc">Cloudy in the evening; very dark night. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   27</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Wind; storm.  </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   28</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Heavy shower.  </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   29</td><td class="tdc bl br">79  </td><td class="tdc bl br">74  </td><td class="tdc">  </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   30</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Cold rainy night; wind west.  </td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl">July 1</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br">74  </td><td class="tdc">Very windy, and unusually steady.  </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   2</td><td class="tdc bl br">80  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Slight showers; wind west. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   3</td><td class="tdc bl br">77  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Showers in the morning; day cloudy. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   4</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Heavy tornado; lightning and thunder heavy.</td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   5</td><td class="tdc bl br">81  </td><td class="tdc bl br">70  </td><td class="tdc">This day temperature changeable during a tornado, the heaviest seen; thermometer fell to 70°. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   6</td><td class="tdc bl br">80  </td><td class="tdc bl br">73  </td><td class="tdc">Unusually cold in the morning. </td></tr> -<tr><td>  ”   7</td><td class="tdc bl br">82  </td><td class="tdc bl br"> </td><td class="tdc">   </td></tr> -</table> - - -<p class="center p2">THE END.</p> - - -<p class="center p4">LONDON:<br />R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter transnote"> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>Errors in punctuation have been fixed.</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_86">Page 86</a>: “the the corn” changed to “the corn”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_121">Page 121</a>: “chiefly dependnet” changed to “chiefly dependent”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_128">Page 128</a>: “into the midde” changed to “into the middle”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_137">Page 137</a>: “aview of” changed to “a view of”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_227">Page 227</a>: “must have have been” changed to “must have been”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_268">Page 268</a>: “Wesleyan misonary” changed to “Wesleyan missionary”</p> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN WESTERN AFRICA, VOL. 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