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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ac54dc --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69079 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69079) diff --git a/old/69079-0.txt b/old/69079-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f19957e..0000000 --- a/old/69079-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10938 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Memorials of old Durham, by Henry R. -Leighton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Memorials of old Durham - -Editor: Henry R. Leighton - -Release Date: October 1, 2022 [eBook #69079] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD DURHAM *** - - - - - - MEMORIALS OF THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND - - General Editor: - REV. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S. - - - MEMORIALS OF OLD DURHAM - - [Illustration] - - [Illustration: DURHAM CATHEDRAL. - - _From the Picture by J. M. W. Turner, R.A._] - - - - - MEMORIALS OF OLD - DURHAM - - - EDITED BY - HENRY R. LEIGHTON, F.R.HIST.S. - - WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS - - [Illustration: colophon] - - - LONDON - GEORGE ALLEN & SONS, 44 & 45, RATHBONE PLACE, W. - 1910 - - [_All Rights Reserved_] - - - - - TO THE - - RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF DURHAM, K.G., - _Lord-Lieutenant of the County Palatine of Durham_, - - THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY - - HIS KIND PERMISSION - - - - -PREFACE - - -The Palatinate of Durham possesses special claims to the attention of -students of history. It alone amongst the English counties was for -centuries ruled by Sovereign Bishops possessing their own peers, troops, -mint, and legal courts. In every respect it was a miniature kingdom, in -its constitution like only to the well-known Prince-Bishoprics of the -Continent. - -In the past the county has been favoured by a succession of historians, -who have dealt more or less fully with its parochial history. More -recently Dr. Lapsley and the contributors to the "Victoria History" have -minutely examined the various phases of its early constitution. In the -publications of the local archæological societies, the greater mansions -and most of the more interesting churches have been dealt with in -detail. - -In view, therefore, of the now considerable accumulated literature upon -the county, it has been a matter of no small difficulty to select -subjects which should be helpful to the scholar as well as interesting -to the general reader. - -It has been endeavoured to make this volume serve a twofold purpose. -Firstly, to awaken a greater interest in the past of this most historic -district, and secondly, to serve as an introduction to the greater -histories of the county. Some day, perhaps, we may hope to see an -edition of Surtees’, revised to a recent date, and covering those -portions of the county which he did not live to deal with. - -Through the courtesy of the Earl of Durham we are enabled to reproduce -for the first time the portrait of William James, sometime Bishop of -Durham. Lord Strathmore has kindly enabled us to include the very -interesting photograph of Streatlam Castle. Thanks are also due to Mrs. -Greenwell, of Greenwell Ford, for the photograph of Fen Hall. Mr. J. -Tavenor-Perry has supplied the sketches of the cathedral sanctuary -knocker and the dun cow panel, besides the valuable measured drawings of -Finchale Priory. The remaining sketches in pen and ink have been -contributed by Mr. Wilfrid Leighton. - -In conclusion, in addition to thanking the contributors of the various -chapters for the care with which they have treated their subjects, -thanks are due to the Rev. William Greenwell and to the Rev. Dr. Gee, -who have both made useful suggestions. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - -Historical Introduction By the Rev. HENRY GEE, -D.D., F.S.A. 1 - -Topography of Durham By Miss M. HOPE DODDS 24 - -Folk-lore of the County of Durham By Mrs. NEWTON W. -APPERLEY 44 - -The Legends of Durham By Miss FLORENCE N. -COCKBURN 65 - -Place-names in the Durham Dales By W. MORLEY EGGLESTONE 79 - -Durham Cathedral By the Rev. WILLIAM -GREENWELL, M.A., etc. 108 - -Finchale Priory By J. TAVENOR-PERRY 130 - -Monkwearmouth and Jarrow By the Rev. DOUGLAS S. -BOUTFLOWER, M.A. 146 - -The Parish Churches of Durham By WILFRID LEIGHTON 162 - -Monumental Inscriptions By EDWIN DODDS 182 - -The Castles and Halls of Durham By HENRY R. LEIGHTON 198 - -Durham Associations of John Wesley By the Rev. T. CYRIL -DALE, B.A. 229 - -The Old Families of Durham By HENRY R. LEIGHTON 239 - -Index 257 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -Durham Cathedral _Frontispiece_ - -(_From the picture by J. M. W. Turner, R.A._) - - PAGE, OR FACING PAGE - -Portrait of William James, Bishop of Durham, 1606-1617 6 - -(_From the painting at Lambton Castle_) - -The Market-Cross at Darlington 25 - -An Old Tithe-barn at Durham 27 - -Bishop Pudsey’s Charter to the City of Durham, and -Pope Alexander III.’s Confirmation thereof 30 - -(_From a copy made by Christopher Fawcett, of Newcastle, originally -issued as one of the Allan Tracts_) - -Jack Crawford’s Birth-place, Sunderland 35 - -The Palace, Bishop Auckland 38 - -(_From a drawing by W. Daniell, R.A._) - -Barnard Castle 40 - -(_From a drawing by E. Dayes_) - -Brancepeth Castle in 1777 42 - -(_From an old Print_) - -The Palace Green, Durham 64 - -(_From an old Print_) - -The Dun Cow Panel, Durham Cathedral 67 - -Hilton Castle from the North 70 - -Lambton Castle, 1835 74 - -(_From the picture by T. Allom_) - -The Kepier Hospital 90 - -The Crypt, Durham Cathedral 112 - -The Sanctuary Knocker, Durham Cathedral 119 - -Durham Cathedral: The Western Towers from a window -in the Monks’ Library 120 - -(_From a drawing by R. W. Billings, 1844_) - -Piscina in Choir, Finchale Priory 135 - -Choir, Finchale Priory 137 - -The Church from the North-west, Finchale Priory 139 - -Plan of the Ruins of Finchale Priory 140 - -Front of the Chapter House, Finchale Priory 141 - -Crypt under Refectory, Finchale Priory 142 - -The Prior’s Lodging, Finchale Priory 143 - -Monkwearmouth Church 146 - -Old Stone, Monkwearmouth 148 - -Ornamental Stonework, Monkwearmouth Cathedral 153 - -Jarrow Church 154 - -(_From a photograph by G. Hastings_) - -Early English Snakes, Monkwearmouth Church 157 - -Norton Church 172 - -Boldon Spire 176 - -Anglo-Saxon Stone at Chester-le-Street 184 - -Witton Castle in 1779 198 - -(_From a contemporary print by Bailey_) - -Lumley Castle 202 - -Hilton Castle: West Front 206 - -Old Tower at Ravensworth Castle 210 - -The Cross at Ravensworth 212 - -Streatlam Castle 214 - -(_From a photograph by E. Yeoman, Barnard Castle_) - -Raby Castle in 1783 218 - -(_From a contemporary Print_) - -Gainford Hall 222 - -The Old Hall at Thorpe Thewles 223 - -Fen Hall 224 - -(_From a photograph by Mrs. Greenwell_) - -A Corner of Washington Hall 225 - -The Doorway, West Rainton Hall 227 - -General John Lambton, 1710-1794 244 - -(_From the portrait by G. Romney at Lambton Castle_) - -Hoppyland Park 248 - -Portrait of Sir George Bowes 254 - -(_From the painting at Streatlam Castle_) - - - - -HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION - -BY THE REV. HENRY GEE, D.D., F.S.A., MASTER OF UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, -DURHAM - - -In the older maps of England, that portion of the country which we call -the county of Durham is generally described as "Episcopatus -Dunelmensis," or the Bishopric of Durham, or simply the Bishopric. A -further glance at the adjacent districts of Northumberland and Yorkshire -shows that there are portions larger or smaller of those counties which -are marked as integral parts of Durham. These members of the Bishopric -are Norhamshire, Islandshire, and Bedlingtonshire in Northumberland, -with the Manors of Northallerton, Howden, and Crayke, and certain lands -adjacent to them in Yorkshire. These portions of the Bishopric were only -cut off from it and merged in their own surrounding counties within the -memory of persons still living. Indeed, the distinction between -Bishopric folk and County folk--that is to say, people of Durham and -people of Northumberland--is not yet quite forgotten, and looks back to -a very interesting piece of English history that has to do with a state -of things in the North of England which has now passed away. - -Visitors who come to the city of Durham to-day and look on cathedral and -castle have some vague idea of a time when the Bishop of Durham had "the -power of life and death," as it is popularly called; but what this -means, and what the peculiar constitution of the neighbourhood was, they -do not, as a rule, understand. It may be worth while to try and get a -clearer view of the Bishopric of Durham, and more especially of the -main portion between Tyne and Tees, which forms the modern county. We -to-day are so much accustomed to a strong central Government controlling -the whole of England, that we find it hard to think of a time when -certain districts had a large independence, and were ruled by a local -Earl or by Bishop, rather than by the King in the capital. Yet there -were such times both in England and upon the Continent. The district so -ruled is known as a franchise or liberty, and the history of its -independence, won, maintained, or lost, generally forms an attractive -subject of study, with many exciting episodes in it. The assertion is -certainly true of Durham; and although it is not possible to go into -detail within the space of an introductory article like this, it may be -possible to explain what the Bishopric was, and how it came to get its -distinctive characteristics and its later modification. - -The franchise of the Bishop of Durham may be most aptly understood if we -try to regard all the members of it mentioned above as a little kingdom, -of which Durham City was the capital. The Bishop of Durham was virtually -the King of this little realm, and ruled it, not only as its spiritual -head, but as its temporal head. As its spiritual head, he was in the -position of any ordinary Bishop, and possessed exactly the same powers -as other prelates. As its temporal head, he had a power which they -generally did not possess. Dr. Freeman has explained his position in the -following words: "The prelate of Durham became one and the more -important of the only two English prelates whose worldly franchises -invested them with some faint shadow of the sovereign powers enjoyed by -the princely Churchmen of the Empire. The Bishop of Ely in his island, -the Bishop of Durham in his hill-fortress, possessed powers which no -other English ecclesiastic was allowed to share.... The external aspect -of the city of itself suggests its peculiar character. Durham alone -among English cities, with its highest point crowned, not only by the -cathedral, but by the vast castle of the Prince-Bishop, recalls to mind -those cities of the Empire--Lausanne, or Chur, or Sitten--where the -priest, who bore alike the sword and the pastoral staff, looked down -from his fortified height on a flock which he had to guard no less -against worldly than against ghostly foes."[1] And this sovereignty was -no nominal thing, for the Bishop came to have most of the institutions -that we connect with the thought of a kingdom. He had his own courts of -law, his own officers of state, his own assemblies, his own system of -finance, his own coinage, and, to some extent, he had his own troops and -his own ships. As we understand all this, we shall appreciate the -significance of the lofty throne erected by Bishop Hatfield in Durham -Cathedral. It was placed there in the flourishing days of the Bishop’s -power, and is not merely the seat of a Bishop, but the throne of a King. -So too, hard by, in the Bishop’s castle, as the chronicler tells us, -there were two seats of royalty within the hall, one at either end. No -doubt it was before the Bishop, sitting as Prince in one of these, that -the great tenants of his franchise--the Barons of the Bishopric, as they -were actually called--did homage in respect of their lands. Perhaps, -when he sat in the other from time to time as Bishop, his clergy and -others recognized his spiritual authority, or submitted themselves to -his "godly admonitions." - -The county of Durham has been marked out by nature, more or less -distinctly, as separate from the neighbouring counties. The Tees on the -south, and the Tyne on the north, with the Derwent running from the -western fells to the Tyne, sufficiently differentiate it. In what -follows we will keep mainly to the district represented by the modern -county, leaving out of view the members outside to which reference has -been made. Its history, until modern times, is largely ecclesiastical, -owing to its peculiar constitution, in which the Bishop plays so -important a part. It had, indeed, virtually no history until the Church -became the great civilizer in Northumbria. Its prehistoric remains are -few, if interesting. Its occupation by Brigantes, a Celtic tribe, is a -large fact with no details. In the days when Romans made the North of -Britain their own, there is still no history beyond the evidence of -Roman roads, with camps at Binchester, Lanchester, and Ebchester. -Certainly no Roman Christian remains have been found as yet; but when in -the seventh century Christianity came to the Anglian invaders who -settled in these parts after the departure of the Romans, the history of -the English people was born within the confines of the modern county. -Bede, the first of English scholars and writers, compiled his history in -the monastery of Jarrow. He tells us all we know of the earliest Durham -Christians--of Benedict Biscop and of Hilda, who, with himself, are the -first three historic personages in the district. In one pregnant -sentence he tells us how churches were built in different places, how -the people flocked together to hear the Word, and how landed possessions -were given by royal munificence to found monasteries. These monasteries -became the centres of religion, civilization, and learning all over -Northumbria; and, in particular, the monasteries of Jarrow and -Wearmouth, twin foundations of Benedict Biscop, were the commencement of -everything best worth having between Tyne and Tees. - -Thus religion, art, and literature, were born in Durham. In the last -years of the eighth century a terrible calamity fell upon the wider -province, of which Durham was only a part, when the Danes raided -Lindisfarne, where had been the starting-point of the Northumbrian -Church. When the mother was thus spoiled and laid desolate, the -daughters trembled for their safety, but they were left for awhile, not -unassailed, yet not destroyed. In those days of disturbed peace further -gifts of land were made to the Church, and in these we trace large -slices of Durham handed over in the ninth century to the monks of -Lindisfarne by those who had the power to give. And here we must notice -that the great treasure of the monastery at Lindisfarne was the body of -St. Cuthbert, the great Northumbrian saint, to whom the endowments named -were most solemnly dedicated. They formed the nucleus of the -Bishopric--the beginnings of the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert, which is -only another name for the Bishopric. Repeated invasion of the Danes at -last drove the monks out of Lindisfarne, and destroyed the Durham -monasteries of Jarrow and Wearmouth. The Lindisfarne monks left their -island, and bore away for safety’s sake the body of St. Cuthbert, and -after various wanderings brought it back to rest within the fortified -enclosure of Chester-le-Street, and so within the confines of Durham. -Here the Danish conquerors confirmed previous gifts, and added others to -them, until the lands of St. Cuthbert increased very widely, whilst -Chester-le-Street became a centre of pilgrimage. - -For 113 years Chester-le-Street was the Christian metropolis of the -North, until the final fury of the Danes began to fall upon Northumbria. -In 995 another exodus began, and the clergy bore off the body to Ripon, -returning a few months later when the tempest seemed to have abated. -Many legends cluster round this return, but in any case the fact is -clear that the Bishop and his company took up their abode, not at -Chester-le-Street, but on the rocky peninsula of Dun-holm, or Durham, -which the River Wear nearly encircled. In this way the seat of -ecclesiastical authority was changed for the second time, and Durham -City now became the centre of the still-expanding Bishopric. Great -prestige gathered round the Saxon cathedral in which the shrine of the -saint was placed, for Kings and Princes vied with one another in doing -honour to it. So Canute, walking to the spot with bare feet, gave fresh -donations of Durham land and confirmed what others had bestowed. - -But again dark days fell upon the North. To say nothing of Scottish -encroachments upon the Bishopric, which were sustained in the eleventh -century, the worst blow fell when the Norman Conquest took place. In no -part of England was a more determined patriotism opposed to William than -in Durham. Submission was nominal, and desperate efforts were made to -keep Northumbria as a separate kingdom by placing Edgar Atheling upon an -English throne in York. When the Conqueror made a Norman called Cumin -his Viceroy in these parts, the men of Durham rose and murdered him -within their city. It was an act that William never forgave and never -forgot. He wrought such a deed of vengeance that the whole of the -smiling district from York to Durham was turned into a wilderness. When -he came to die he is represented to have said of this ruthless episode: -"I fell on the English of the Northern counties like a ravening lion. I -commanded their houses and corn, with all their tools and furniture, to -be burnt without distinction, and large herds of cattle and beasts of -burden to be butchered wherever they were found. It was thus I took -revenge on multitudes of both sexes, by subjecting them to the calamity -of a cruel famine; and by so doing, alas! became the barbarous murderer -of many thousands, both young and old, of that fine race of people." - -William placed foreigners in most positions of importance. To the See of -Durham he appointed Walcher from Lorraine, and the new prelate came from -his consecration at Winchester, escorted across the belt of depopulated, -ravaged land, until he reached Durham. North of the Wear the Patrimony -of St. Cuthbert was as yet largely untouched, but the men of Durham had -no love for the foreigner, and no wish to regard him as their lord. -Fortunately for him the Earl of Northumbria stood his friend, and built -for him in 1072 the Norman castle overlooking - -[Illustration: Portrait and Signature] - -the Wear, which was destined to be the Bishop’s fortress for seven and a -half centuries. Within that castle Walcher was safe, and, helped by the -Earl, he ruled his recalcitrant flock, not always wisely, but with all -his power, until an insurrection which he strove to quell cost him his -life. He died, however, not as mere Bishop of Durham, but as Earl of -Northumbria as well, for when Waltheof the Earl died, William appointed -Walcher in his place. Thus in the hands of the first Bishop after the -Conquest was held the double authority of Bishop and of Earl. Whatever -may have been the powers of the prelate in the Bishopric until this -time, it is certain that from this point he claims a double authority -within the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert. As for Walcher, stern example was -made of what resistance to the Bishop’s lawful authority would mean, -when William laid waste the land that had escaped ten years before, and -extended his ravages north of the Wear and towards the Tyne. - -Just before the eleventh century expired, an event of considerable -importance took place when Bishop Carileph began the great cathedral -which still crowns the height above the Wear at Durham. About the same -time an understanding was reached between the Earl of Northumbria and -the Bishop, by which all the rights and the independence of the -Bishopric seem to have been recognized and confirmed, so that -henceforward the Bishop was the undisputed lord of the lands of St. -Cuthbert.[2] When in 1104 the cathedral was sufficiently advanced to -receive the body of the saint within its eastern apse, a great ceremony -took place, which served to carry the prestige of Durham beyond anything -it had yet reached. Henceforward the stream of pilgrims which had -steadily flowed to the shrine, whether at Lindisfarne, or -Chester-le-Street, or Durham, swelled in volume until the -attractiveness of Durham exceeded that of any place of pilgrimage in -England. Only when the shrine of St. Thomas at Canterbury drew to it so -large a share of patronage from the end of the twelfth century did a -serious rival manifest itself. Carileph had divided the territory of St. -Cuthbert, reserving part for the Bishop, and part for the Benedictine -monks whom he placed in the new cathedral. Thus the Bishop had his -estates henceforward, and the monks had theirs. At first the portion -belonging to the monastery seems to have been disappointingly poor, a -fact very probably due to recent ravages whose brand was not yet -effaced. By degrees, however, the lands of prior and convent improved, -and the gifts of pilgrims made the monks prosperous. - -The Bishop who presided when the body of St. Cuthbert was translated in -1104 was Ralph Flambard. He was not the character to allow the prestige -of the Bishopric to decline. Under him the resources of the county were -ably administered, and the organization of his dominions was carefully -developed. By degrees the traces of the Norman harrying were -obliterated. How fair a country Durham was in the early twelfth century -we may discover from the poetry of a monk from the monastery who was -called Lawrence, and wrote a description of events and localities -connected with Durham. He speaks of its scenery, its excellent products, -its fine breed of horses, its open-air amusements, to say nothing of -indoor revels at Christmas. The twelfth century, with sparse population, -open moor and plain, and increasing prosperity, is far away from the -noise of anvil and forge, the smoke of endless coke ovens, the squalor -of congested towns, as they exist in the county to-day. But the scene -changed too soon. After the accession of Stephen in 1135 fierce dynastic -feuds broke out, and the Scots joined in the anarchy of the time, -attempting to annex the territory of St. Cuthbert to the Lowlands of -Scotland. Durham suffered severely in the conflict, and a mock-bishop, -supported by the Scots, actually held Durham Castle and City against -the lawful prelate. At length more quiet days came, and in the reign of -Henry II. Bishop Pudsey, the King’s own cousin, succeeded in resisting -the centralizing efforts of the monarch, and although he had to bow to -the imperious Henry on more than one occasion, he carried on in the main -the liberties and rights of the Bishopric. A little later he was enabled -to round off the Bishopric lands when he bought the wapentake of -Sadberge from King Richard, the only important part of the county which -had never yet been included in the territory of St. Cuthbert. From this -time the Earl of Northumbria disappears, and at last there is no rival -whatsoever to powers which had been steadily growing. The Bishopric is -now complete in head and members, and the Bishop is virtual sovereign of -it, whilst the King is supreme outside. At this stage we may freely call -the Bishop’s dominions the Palatinate of Durham--a name which continues -to be usual until the power so described is, in 1836, annexed to the -Crown. The word "Palatinate" is a conventional legal title which the -lawyers brought into fashion to describe a great franchise with its -independent jurisdiction.[3] - -We are able to get a very much clearer notion of the Palatinate in -Pudsey’s days, when the hitherto scanty materials of Durham history -begin to swell. We have some of his buildings before us yet--St. -Cuthbert’s, Darlington, the Galilee of the cathedral, the rich doorway -in the castle; we have seal and charters and writs of his episcopate; -and, in short, are able to trace in outline the way in which Pudsey -developed the Bishopric on the analogy of a little kingdom, with -institutions and officers of its own. Moreover, some notion is gained in -the famous Boldon Book[4] of the episcopal lands and how they were -held. There we get a Domesday, as it were, of the Bishop’s holdings, to -which those who desire to study the intricate methods of medieval land -tenure on the Bishop’s property must be referred. A little later on we -find somewhat similar information about the lands of the monastery, so -that, as the centuries wear on, a fairly detailed picture is gained of -the conditions of life in the medieval Bishopric. Thus we see the lands -divided up into a large number of manors, which vary largely in -character, for some are pastoral, others agricultural, others moor-land, -or forest, and others still are connected with townships like Gateshead -or Sunderland. The Bishop’s or Prior’s steward makes a circuit at -different times, visiting all the units in some special locality, and -looking to his lettings or his rents. The holdings vary very much in -size and in tenure, and the tenants likewise differ in status and in -service. There are villeins who are not free, and are bound to render -certain dues of personal service, mowing, or reaping, or ploughing, or -sowing, for so many days, and receiving perhaps doles of food, a -cottage, and some land, but no money wage. There are farmers who take a -manor or farm on condition of rendering so much agricultural produce to -the lord. There are cottiers who work so many days in the week, and have -to give so many eggs, or so many fowls for the table, in return for the -little home that they occupy. In Durham itself certain houses were let -to tenants, who had to defend the North Gate, or help act as garrison, -or render herbs and other necessaries for the Bishop’s kitchen. The -conditions of service among the villeins were often onerous, and a tone -of deep discontent is marked in the medieval villages of Durham. In time -of war external service might be demanded of the men, and a rally to -join the Bishopric troops was no unfamiliar incident of life in those -days. If it extended beyond the bounds proper of the territory of St. -Cuthbert, pay was claimed, though it was not always given. Small -quarrels and differences were probably adjusted by steward or bailiff, -but more serious cases came before justices of the peace specially -appointed, whilst murder and other grave offences were reserved for -judges whom the Bishop appointed to sit at various centres, of which -Durham was the chief. And this power of appointing judges to try -criminals and to convict or acquit them is what is meant by the popular -and inexact phrase, "the power of life and death." The Bishop’s revenue -was managed by special officers of his own appointment, who got returns -from the local bailiffs, and then recorded them at Durham, where a -special audit was held. A special set of buildings were erected near -Durham Castle, with various adjacent offices, for the management and -arrangement of all the mass of business--financial, judicial, and -administrative--which was entailed by the Bishopric. - -In this way the conditions of life, and the administration of the -Palatinate, followed roughly the general order of the kingdom outside, -and the Bishopric was, as has already been said, virtually a little -kingdom ruled by a Bishop instead of a King. The Bishops who followed -Pudsey maintained and developed his organization, but not without -strife. The thirteenth century, in particular, presents a long record of -obstinate struggle between the Bishop and those who tried to limit his -power or to gain concessions which he was unwilling to make. Indeed, the -struggle between the King and the people, which is the great feature of -English history in that century, finds a close parallel on a small scale -in Durham. At one time it is a long feud between the Bishop and the -Monastery over their respective lands, a feud which was at last ended by -an agreement between the contending parties. At another time the Bishop -is trying to curb the independence of the Barons of the Bishopric, who -held large estates for which they were supposed to yield homage, or to -perform some kind of service. In this way Nevilles and Balliols, two of -the great Bishopric families, held out against the crusading Bishop Bek, -and in the end they had to give way. And once more there was strife on -more than one occasion with the King, who now and then attempted to -restrain the exuberant independence of the Bishop of Durham; and here, -in the main, the Bishop was successful in asserting his rights and -powers as inalienable. - -Over this scene of complex organization and activity dark shadows came -in the fourteenth century. The Scots, who had been quiescent for some -time, fell upon the Bishopric with great ferocity during the reigns of -the first three Edwards, and the years were seldom free from the record -of invasion or pillage. It had come to be regarded as a prime duty of -the Bishop to repress all northern incursions, and, as a contemporary -document puts it, to serve as a wall of brass against the Scots. He had -his fortified castles, Norham in Norhamshire, Durham in its own county, -and Northallerton in Yorkshire. These three lay on one of the chief -routes by which the invaders entered England, and were kept in -threatening times well defended and provisioned. In 1312 Bruce pushed -his forces right through Northumberland, and advanced into the heart of -the Bishopric, delivering a blow against Durham itself, which must have -been severe. Two years later in Scotland the troops of England were -beaten at Bannockburn, and the humiliation of Edward II. was only -effaced some years later by Edward III. in the victories of Halidon -Hill, and more particularly of Neville’s Cross in 1346. The latter -battle was the great glory of the men of Durham until it was forgotten -in the greater prestige of Flodden nearly 200 years later. The tomb of -Ralph Neville, badly battered by Scots in later days, still stands in -Durham Cathedral as a local memorial of Neville’s Cross, in which he led -the Bishopric troops. - -The joy caused by these successes was soon dimmed when the terrors of -the Black Death overwhelmed the district. Perhaps no part of England -suffered much more severely. The pestilence rolled up towards the North -in the year 1349, and at last made its dreaded appearance in the -south-east of the county. From this point it spread with frightful -rapidity, carrying off all orders and conditions of men, for none -escaped. Sometimes a whole household perished, and here and there an -entire village was obliterated. "No tenants came from West Thickley, -because they are all dead," is the steward’s entry at one manorial court -or halmote, as the local word is. In the winter that followed there was -no sowing, and when the spring came men had not the heart to go to work -on the fields, for the plague was renewed with increasing virulence, and -everything was thrown out of gear. Villeins had run away from sheer -terror; even madness was not unheard of; and whilst there was little to -eat famine and misery stalked unchecked.[5] The Bishop’s lands and the -Prior’s lands were going out of cultivation, for it was impossible to -find labourers, or to bind them down in the old way. Grotesque attempts -were made to keep up the former conditions of service, until by degrees -stewards and bailiffs found out that they were face to face with the -greatest economic difficulty which had ever appeared in the Bishopric. -The Black Death practically brought to an end the rigid system of land -tenure which had been kept up so long, for it gave the death-blow to -serfdom, and the old services in kind, of which mention has been made. -Discontent had long lurked in the manors of Durham, but from this time -it became active and aggressive, until it pushed the peasants out to -assert themselves and to seek for more congenial conditions of life. -Elsewhere the transition was effected by bloodshed; in the territories -of St. Cuthbert it came more peacefully, but to the accompaniment of -much mutual mistrust and variance. - -It is possibly in connection with all this covert rebellion on the part -of the masses that Cardinal Langley built or finished the great gaol in -the North Gate in Durham. This large building running up to the castle -keep on one side, and down towards the river on the other, spanned -Saddler Street for four centuries, until it was taken down in 1820. It -was often filled with criminals who were imprisoned here for various -offences in its gloomy dungeons. There was another gaol at Sadberge, but -it does not seem clear what relation this bore to the more important -building in Durham. But the fifteenth century brought its own special -anxieties. In the dynastic troubles which led to the Wars of the Roses, -the Palatinate was generally Lancastrian in sympathy. Henry VI. (only -one of many English Kings who visited Durham) came to the shrine of St. -Cuthbert at a time when his dominions had been cut short upon the -Continent, and were still further menaced by the Scots. In the bitter -days that followed, when he was driven from his throne, he took refuge -in the Bishopric, whilst his brave wife went to the Continent to seek -for troops to enable him to regain the crown. Even rectories were -fortified in those days, for men had to take one side or the other, and -to defend their property against bands of marauders. Of religious -trouble and dispute, Durham had no large share at that particular time, -though elsewhere the ferment caused by the Lollard Movement was -producing much unrest. The Bishopric was too much under the control of -the Church to allow much freedom of thought. Yet there were isolated -instances of Lollard sympathy, exceptions to prove the rule, which were -instantly repressed by ecclesiastical authority. - -Dynastic trouble did not end when Henry VII. and his wife, Elizabeth, -united the Red and White Roses. The Bishopric men, indeed, had no desire -to rise against the strong government which the King set up in England; -but they were caught in the tide of rebellion which was set going by -Simnel and Warbeck. It was to stem this tide that Henry placed Richard -Fox as Bishop of Durham in 1494. This prelate, the King’s tried friend, -fortified afresh the castles of the see, and placed garrisons in them -to check the advance of Warbeck through the northern counties. -Fortunately, the invasion followed another line to the Battle of Stoke, -and the men of Durham were spared the anxiety of decision. But Fox, -keeping vigilant guard in his fortresses, was instrumental in concluding -that alliance which was destined eventually to unite the English and the -Scots as one nation. Henry’s young daughter, Margaret, was affianced to -James IV. of Scotland, and in 1503 passed right through the Bishopric on -her way to her northern home. Nowhere in all the long progress did the -Princess receive a warmer welcome than in Durham, from the moment she -entered the Bishopric at the Tees to the moment she crossed Tyne Bridge -from Gateshead into Newcastle. A mighty banquet was given in her honour -in Durham Castle, to which all the nobles and important personages of -the district were invited. Little Margaret’s great-grandson was James -VI. of Scotland and I. of England; and in his days border feuds passed -away for ever. And yet at the moment of the banquet that consummation -was a long way off. Ten years later the Scots invaded England at a time -of grave national anxiety, when the King and his troops were warring in -France. But the Bishopric musters turned out. Bishop Ruthall rushed up -to Durham, and his men at Flodden contributed not a little to the great -English success as they bore the banner of St. Cuthbert into the battle. - -The century that had so recently dawned was destined to witness great -changes in the Bishopric. Henry VIII. laid ruthless hands upon the power -of the Church, and the monarch who extorted the submission of the clergy -was not likely to allow the great power and independence of the Bishop -of Durham to pass unchecked. Accordingly, in 1536, he cut short the -judiciary authority of the prelate. This, as we have seen, was one of -the most characteristic privileges of the Bishop, and neither Henry II. -nor Edward I. had interfered with it. From this date the King was the -authority who appointed the judges; and although in practice the old -forms and methods were largely followed, the sanction was royal, and not -episcopal. And next year, when the Council of the North was set up for -the purposes of defence, execution of justice, and finance, in the -northern counties, a still further blow was aimed at the Bishop’s power, -for this court could, if it willed, supersede the Palatinate machinery. -As a matter of fact, its first President was Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, -who prevented such degradation of the Palatinate for the present. Yet -one thing of large importance was carried out under the Council’s -authority, when the great Abbey of Durham was dissolved in 1539. The -monastery had stood unassailed for 450 years, but Henry set going the -process of destruction which ended in the total suppression of every -religious house in the land. It had been a wealthy foundation, a kindly -landlord, an influence for good in the district, with its library, and -its schools, and its varied means of usefulness. Yet every good object -that it had served was eventually carried on. Prior and convent became -Dean and Canons; monastic lands were now capitular estates; its chief -school and library were maintained with greater efficiency; its solemn -offices soon became the familiar vernacular service of the Church of -England. Otherwise there was little monastic destruction in the county -of Durham, for the great monastery had brooked no rivals; and a friary -or two with a single nunnery were scarcely rivals. The dependent cells -of Jarrow, Wearmouth, Finchale, however, shared in the fall of Durham -Abbey. - -Three or four years before the surrender of the monastery the people of -Durham had taken part in the Pilgrimage of Grace--that exciting -demonstration in which popular resentment against the fall of the -smaller houses was exhibited. When Durham Abbey fell, there was no -repetition of that rising, for severe punishment had been meted out in -1537; whilst in 1540 pestilence was desolating the district, and the -gloom in consequence was depressing. But there was no sympathy with the -changes which soon began to hurry on, and Durham was probably more -opposed to the Reformation than any other district. Under Edward VI. the -Bishopric became the object of the ambitious designs of -Northumberland--one of the noblemen whom the rapid religious and -political revolution of the time placed in power. He cast a longing eye -on the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert; and in building up the fortunes of his -upstart family (he was a Dudley, not a Percy, for the true -Northumberland title was at the moment suspended) he probably intended -to lay hands upon the whole Bishopric, and to arrogate for himself the -Palatinate jurisdiction. He succeeded in getting the Bishop thrown into -prison on false charges of treason, and then forced a Bill through -Parliament which abolished the power of the Palatinate, and created two -sees--one at Durham, the other at Newcastle. There can be little doubt -that he intended to secure the Palatinate power for himself, and to rule -in Durham as Duke of Northumberland; whilst his son, Guildford Dudley, -recently married to Lady Jane Grey, was to be Prince Consort, and to -share the throne of England. This most daring scheme fell to the ground -when Mary came to the throne, and the recent legislation was at once -abolished, and things went back to the conditions obtaining before the -reign of Edward. - -Under Elizabeth the Bishopric underwent a process of reconstruction in -various ways. It was not a pleasant process. Socially the old system of -land-tenure, which had been breaking up since the Black Death, was -abolished, and a new method of leaseholds was evolved after much -friction between the tenants on the one side, and the Dean and Chapter, -or the Bishop, on the other. The power of the Bishop was now further -attenuated, for the Queen laid hands upon large estates which were the -undoubted possession of the see, with a history of many centuries’ -attachment to the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert. The settlement of religion -carried out in the early years of the Queen’s reign was largely -unpalatable in Durham. Certainly the majority of the clergy acquiesced, -but the acquiescence was largely external. So the people at large -tolerated the changes that were wrought in churches and services, when -the English liturgy took the place of the Latin offices restored by -Mary, and when altars were broken down, and the church furniture in -general was destroyed. The great Bishopric families--Nevilles, Lumleys, -and others--scarcely concealed their dislike of the new régime in Church -and in State, and after some years of endurance, they rose at last in -1569. Feeling sure of wide sympathy in Northumberland and Durham, the -Earls of Northumberland and Westmorland gathered retainers together, and -restored the old order in Durham Cathedral, whilst the people of Durham, -lowly kneeling, were absolved from the guilt of schism. But inferior -leadership caused the rising to collapse outside the Bishopric, and when -the Queen’s army marched through Durham it swept the undisciplined -forces of the Earls across the Tyne to be dissipated in the rigours of a -cold Northumbrian winter. But, although the rebellion came to nothing, -passive resistance was maintained. As the reign proceeded, this quieter -condition was roused into greater activity by the seminary priests and -the Jesuit missionaries who came into the country from institutions -abroad, which sent over into England, and not least into Durham, a long -succession of these emissaries. They went up and down the district, -welcomed and protected by friends who received their ministrations, but -not seldom hunted down by the vigilance of the Ecclesiastical -Commission, which increased the stringency of its measures as the -century drew to its close. - -The last years of the great Queen witnessed a rather distressing -condition of things in the county. Pestilence was a frequent visitor in -times that were insanitary, and the transition to happier conditions in -religion and in society was not complete. The villages were frequently -unpopulated, and tillage was decayed, whilst the starving families -wandered into the neighbouring towns in search of food. Probably the -depressing state of affairs was worse in the Bishopric than in other -parts of England, for it received a special aggravation in the Scottish -inroads, which were renewed towards the end of the reign before their -final extinction at the accession of James. When the Elizabethan Poor -Law began its work, the county of Durham benefited by its operation, for -regular collectors for the poor were appointed, and sometimes rates were -levied, in place of the very uncertain alms of the "poor man’s box" in -the church, to which parishioners were asked to contribute under the -Injunctions of Elizabeth. - -The Stuarts showed more regard for the Palatinate of Durham than did the -Tudors. No Tudor sovereign, it seems, entered the county, but James I., -Charles I., and James II. when Duke of York, paid ceremonious visits to -Durham, and in general upheld the prestige of the see, though they never -completely restored its independence. One of the most interesting -episodes of the seventeenth century is the religious revolution carried -out during the first forty years. Bishop Neile is credited with -introducing to Durham a series of prebendaries who altered the aspect of -the cathedral and produced great changes in the services. These -"innovations" caused much comment, and although Charles in 1633 paid a -special visit, and by his presence and countenance sanctioned what had -been done, frequent remonstrance was made. The long reign of Elizabethan -Churchmanship had accustomed the people to one uniform type of worship -and ornament, and they were not prepared for the alterations now made in -ritual and in the appearance of the churches. When the Scots entered -England in 1640, by way of remonstrance against the King’s policy in -Church and State, the Bishopric was not altogether unsympathetic; but -when the armed demonstration proved to be an armed occupation extending -over a year in duration, the royalism of Durham re-asserted itself. At -the outbreak of the Civil War in 1642 it was warmly royalist. A second -Scottish occupation after Marston Moor in 1644 kept this spirit in -check, whilst the Long Parliament virtually superseded the Palatinate -and governed the district by committees. Bishop, prebendaries, and other -high ecclesiastics had fled when the Scots entered Durham in 1640. -Parliament now seized upon the lands of Bishop and Chapter, and sold -them or let them as opportunity offered. Thus for several years the old -ecclesiastical constitution of Durham was destroyed, and in the parish -churches, carefully cleared in 1644 from all "monuments of idolatry," a -Presbyterian system was set up. It was not, however, fully carried out, -and all manner of ministers were in possession when the Protectorate was -set up in 1653. The cathedral services had long been silenced, and in -1650 Cromwell used the buildings as a convenient accommodation for the -Scottish prisoners captured at Dunbar. On the petition of the people of -the county, the Protector undertook to establish a college in Durham and -to devote the cathedral and castle buildings to that purpose. Resentment -and discontent smouldered during these years of tyranny. Indeed, more -than one Royalist rising had to be repressed. When, at the beginning of -1660, there was talk of restoring the King, no voice of dissent was -heard in the county. - -Exuberant loyalty greeted the Restoration. Cosin was made Bishop. He was -one of the group of influential men appointed by Neile forty years -before, and now for twelve years he repaired the breaches of the city -and diocese, and carried out the principles which he had formed in -earlier life. The Palatinate jurisdiction was revived, with perhaps -greater lustre than it had exhibited for a century past. In these days -of royalist triumph Nonconformist and Puritan scarcely ventured at first -to show their heads, but in Durham they were only biding their time. -They found opportunity to promote a formidable rising, which was known -as the Derwentdale Plot, aiming at some kind of overthrow of the -restored Church and Crown. It was badly managed, and speedily collapsed; -but Anabaptists, Quakers, and other parties managed to maintain their -existence despite strenuous measures, and more particularly despite the -vigorous working of the Conventicle Acts which were intended to crush -Nonconformity. - -Generally speaking, the county of Durham accepted the Revolution in -1688, though here and there some reluctance was manifested, and -notwithstanding the efforts of Bishop Crewe and Dean Granville to -promote allegiance to King James. Jacobitism, indeed, was spasmodic in -the Bishopric, and it does not appear that in 1715 or in 1745 very wide -sympathy was exhibited in the district when elsewhere the excitement was -considerable. The eighteenth century witnessed two events of the -greatest importance in Durham history. In the first place, after a -period of long stagnation, industrial development caught the whole -district and entirely changed its character. The coal trade had been -prosecuted continuously since the thirteenth century at least, and the -mines had proved a considerable source of revenue to the owners. Lead -was an ancient industry, and the salt-pans of the county have a -connected history, ranging over many centuries. These and other -operations had increased in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, -more particularly when a great development of shipping at Sunderland and -at Hartlepool took place after the Restoration. A large export trade by -sea spread rapidly. In the early part of the eighteenth century 175,000 -tons of coal was the annual output on the Wear, and the history of the -collier convoys at that time is a large chapter in the general history -of North Country shipping. All this meant a considerable increase of -prosperity, and by degrees the county which had been thinly populated, -for the most part, became a hive of industry, in which rapid fortunes -were made. The mines and the shipyards attracted labour from other parts -of England, and the population of the county, returned as 58,860 in the -early days of Elizabeth, amounted to 149,384 in 1801, a figure which has -been multiplied by ten in the last hundred years. The Bishop and the -Dean and Chapter largely shared in the vast increase of wealth which the -working of coal-mines in particular produced. It cannot, however, be -said with truth that the Church authorities neglected the cause of -charity. A list of the benefactions directly due to the various Bishops, -and also to Dean and Chapter, shows how much they did in various ways -for the cause of education as well as for the spiritual well-being of -the people. Indeed, subscription lists of the early nineteenth century, -which still survive, prove that the clergy gave the chief proportion of -what was given when some public call was made. It must not be forgotten -that Durham University and Durham School were the direct foundations of -the Church within the Bishopric. - -The other important event to which allusion has been made was the -appearance of the Wesleyan Movement in Durham. Bishop Butler wrote his -famous work, the _Analogy_, in the western parts of the county, and -published it in 1736. It may be doubted whether its local effect was -considerable. Within a few years John Wesley passed and repassed through -the county, and established his societies in Durham, Sunderland, -Darlington, and elsewhere. They prospered exceedingly, and left a -permanent impression upon the district, and this was deepened and -extended when a fresh wave of Methodism travelled over the North of -England early in the nineteenth century in connection with the spread of -Primitive Methodism. There can be no manner of doubt that the Methodist -Movement deeply stirred and influenced some classes of the increasing -population which the Church left untouched. - -The real dividing-line between Old Durham and the present day is to be -found in the series of changes which took place in the reign of William -IV. The spirit of reform was operating in various directions, and it was -not likely that Durham could escape. The increasing wealth of the Church -and the still independent powers of the Bishop attracted the attention -of the party of change. The Dean and Chapter rose to their opportunity, -and founded the University of Durham. The newly formed Ecclesiastical -Commission reduced the large staff of the cathedral, and reduced the -stipends of those who were left. The Bishop was henceforth to be no -longer a great landowner, managing his own revenues and estates, but a -prelate, like any other, drawing a fixed stipend. His officers went, and -the Palatinate jurisdiction which Dudley had coveted was finally annexed -to the Crown. Thus to-day George V. is, within the confines of the -Bishopric, Earl Palatine of Durham. - - - - -TOPOGRAPHY OF DURHAM - -BY MISS M. HOPE DODDS - -_Hist. Tripos, Cantab._ - - -_The Great North Road._ - -The Great North Road crosses the Tees by Croft Bridge, on which the -boundary between Yorkshire and Durham is marked by a stone dated 1627. -This road is the "Darnton Trod," along which criminals from the South -sought refuge all through the Middle Ages. Once across the Tees the -fugitive was safe, for the King’s writ did not run in the Bishopric. -Moreover, this was the road to the great sanctuary of St. Cuthbert at -Durham, where a man was safe from the vengeance of his enemies; and so -it happened that Darlington became a great resort of evil-doers, and in -1311 Bishop Kellaw issued a proclamation threatening with the terrors of -excommunication all those who molested merchants going to and returning -from Darlington market. The ill-name of the neighbourhood was not lost -after the Bishop had been deprived of his own writs in 1536. The little -inn of Baydale was the resort of the gentlemen of the road in the -seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the rendezvous of Catton’s gang, -the haunt of Barwick and of Sir William Browne, all noted highwaymen of -the North. - -The first hamlet in Durham through which the road passes is Oxneyfield, -where, in the fields by the wayside, may be seen the Hell Kettles, four -dark, still pools, formed by the natural sinking of the soil over the -salt measures in the north bank of the Tees. There is a tradition that -an Eastern diver, a black man, plunged into one of the pools, and -reappeared in the Skerne, having discovered a subterranean connection -between the two waters. The Black Man in North Country legends is -usually the devil, and this story may be connected with the belief that -the Hell Kettles sometimes grow boiling hot, and that the devil "seethes -the souls of sinful men and women in them," at which times the spirits -may be heard to cry and yell about the pools. - -[Illustration: THE MARKET-CROSS AT DARLINGTON.] - -Passing by this haunted place the road leads on to Darlington, a borough -full of historical relics, from the Bulmer Stone in Northgate to the -first locomotive at Bank Top Station. The Bulmer Stone is a large -boulder of Shap granite, which was borne down to its present -resting-place on a glacier in the Ice Age. Lying in the midst of the -level, marshy plains of the Skerne, it formed a landmark for the men of -the Bronze Age, and was perhaps the origin of the town. An Anglian -burial-ground, probably pre-Christian, was discovered in the town in -1876. After the conversion of the North a church was built, and two -Saxon crosses from it are preserved in the present Church of St. -Cuthbert. The history of this beautiful building does not come within -the scope of the present section. To the west of the church lies the -market-place, where in 1217 Stephen de Cantuaria purchased half a pound -of pepper at the fair on the Feast of All Saints, which he rendered to -Roger Fitzacris as service for this land in Milneflach and elsewhere. -From the market-cross in 1312 was read the Bishop’s order that a -tournament which had been proclaimed at Darlington should not be held, -as it was forbidden by the laws of the land. That market-cross is not -standing now, but its successor may be seen in the modern covered -market, a plain column surmounted by a ball, which was erected in 1727 -by Dame Dorothy Brown, the last descendant of the family of Barnes, -whose members had held the office of bailiff of Darlington for over a -hundred years. The old toll-booth, in which the bailiffs held their -courts, was pulled down in 1806 and replaced by the present Town Hall. -Ever since 1197, Darlington enjoyed the title of borough, and yet it -possesses no early charters and had no corporate government; it was not -visited by the municipal commissioners in 1833, and was only -incorporated in 1868. Until its incorporation the Bishop of Durham -appointed a bailiff, who held the old manorial court of the borough. -Darlington enjoys the distinction of having retained its bailiff until -the middle of the nineteenth century, whereas in the other Durham towns -the Bishop had ceased to appoint bailiffs by the end of the seventeenth -century. The fame of Darlington rests on the fact that the first -passenger railway-line in England was laid between Darlington and -Stockton by George Stephenson, who was supported by the capital and -influence of Edward Pease of Darlington; the line was opened in 1825. -This is surely glory enough for any town! - -[Illustration: AN OLD TITHE-BARN AT DURHAM.] - -Great Aycliffe, lying five miles north of Darlington on the highroad, -was once one of the lesser forests of the Bishopric. About four miles -north of Aycliffe the road crosses a little stream by the hamlet of -Rushyford. This was a desolate spot in 1317, when on September 1 Lewis -Beaumont, Bishop-elect of Durham, and the Cardinals Gaucelin John and -Luke Fieschi, with a numerous train of attendants, travelled towards -Durham, Beaumont to be consecrated in the cathedral, the Cardinals to -negotiate a truce between England and Scotland. They had been warned at -Darlington that the road was beset, and this warning, which they -disregarded, proved only too true, for as they crossed the gloomy little -burn at Rushyford, they were set upon by the notorious freebooter, Sir -Gilbert Middleton, and his men. The Cardinals and their servants were -stripped of their goods and allowed to continue their journey, but the -borderers carried off the Bishop-elect to their fortress of Mitford -Castle, and there held him to ransom, until the Prior and Convent of -Durham by great sacrifices succeeded in redeeming him. - -The next place of importance on the road is Ferryhill, a large modern -village six and a half miles south of Durham. Few traces of the past -survive here, except the fragment of an old stone cross, Cleve’s Cross, -which is traditionally held to commemorate the slaying of a great wild -boar, which ravaged Durham once upon a time, by a certain valiant Roger -de Ferry, whose family long dwelt in the neighbourhood in great honour. -About a mile to the south-east of Ferryhill is Mainsforth, the estate of -Robert Surtees, the historian of Durham. - -Midway between Ferryhill and Durham the highroad crosses the River Wear -by Sunderland Bridge, and passes through the suburbs into the city of -Durham. - -A bird’s-eye view of the city of Durham even at the present day is -surprisingly beautiful. In the Middle Ages it would have served as a -model for one of those fascinating little Jerusalems or Bethlehems, -walled, towered, and pinnacled, which the old Italian masters loved to -perch on the craggy hills in the background of some sacred picture. The -river sweeps round three sides of the crag, which is crowned by the -cathedral and the castle, and the narrow neck of land on the fourth side -was defended by a moat. The Prior’s borough of Elvet and the merchants’ -quarter of Framwellgate lay on the opposite bank of the river, and were -connected with the citadel itself by their bridges. - -The monastic chroniclers of the see were chiefly interested in the -doings of the Bishop in his castle and the Prior in his cathedral, and -the occasional interventions of the Lord King in the quarrels of these -august persons; they tell comparatively little of the life and affairs -of the burgesses themselves, the descendants of the men from between -Coquet and Tees, who obeyed the summons of Earl Ucthred in 995, and -hastened to Durham to raise a shrine worthy of St. Cuthbert, who cleared -the thick forest on the crag of Durham, divided the land by lot, and -became the Haliwerfolc, the people of the Saint. Twice during the -eleventh century they were besieged by the Scots, and each time the -enemy was routed. The heads of the slaughtered Scots were exposed in the -market-place, where the great fair of Durham was held on September 4, -the Feast of the Translation of St. Cuthbert. There was also a fair on -the saint’s other festival, March 20; but the September fair was the -more important. The laws of the special peace of St. Cuthbert, which was -proclaimed by the thanes and drengs before the fair opened, were written -in an ancient Gospel-Book, and a copy of them is still preserved. - -In the winter of 1068-69 Robert Cumin, the newly created Norman Earl of -Northumberland, advanced to Durham with his troops, but as the Normans -lay there they were surprised by a sudden rising of the whole -population, and slain almost to a man. A year later news came that -William himself was approaching Durham to avenge the death of Cumin, -whereupon Bishop Egelwin and the priests took the sacred body of St. -Cuthbert and such of the treasures of the church as they could carry and -fled to Lindisfarne, followed by the people of the city, who dared not -remain without the sacred relic. The whole multitude took refuge on the -island while William devastated Durham and Northumberland. At length -peace was made, and St. Cuthbert and his followers returned to the -desolate city. In 1072 William visited Durham, and installed the -foreigner, Bishop Walcher, in the see. About this time also the first -Norman castle was built in the city to keep the people in check; but -when Bishop Walcher ventured out of his stronghold in 1080 he was -murdered. Again William ravaged Durham, and the see was filled by Bishop -William de St. Carileph, who began to build the present cathedral, and -who founded the Benedictine monastery connected with it. To the new -monastery he gave forty merchants’ houses in Elvet, which formed the -nucleus of the Prior’s borough of Elvet. The troubles of Durham -recommenced in 1140, when, the see being vacant, Durham Castle was -seized by William Cumin, a nominee of King David of Scotland, who hoped -through Cumin to annex the Bishopric. In the course of the struggle -between the usurper and the new Bishop, William de St. Barbara, the -greater part of the city of Durham was reduced to ashes. There were four -years of desperate warfare before Bishop William entered his cathedral -town, and at last received the submission of Cumin. Even then there -could be no true peace while England was torn with civil war, and it was -not until after the death of Bishop William that a brighter day dawned -with the election of Bishop Hugh Pudsey. Bishop Hugh rebuilt the ruined -city, restored the fortifications, and added to the cathedral. He -granted the burgesses a charter, by which the customs of -Newcastle-on-Tyne were confirmed to them, besides freedom from merchet, -heriot, and toll. The city of Durham stands first in Bishop Pudsey’s -great survey of the Bishopric (Boldon Book, compiled in 1183), when the -city was at farm for 60 marks. Records which relate to the actual life -of the citizens do not begin until the fourteenth century. The earliest -are various charters of murage, dated 1345, 1377, 1385, which authorized -the citizens to levy certain tolls, and to devote the proceeds to the -repair of the walls and streets. The city was governed - -[Illustration: BISHOP PUDSEY’S CHARTER.] - -by a bailiff, appointed by the Bishop, in the same way as Darlington. It -is not until the fifteenth century that gilds are heard of in Durham. In -1436 Bishop Langley granted a licence to several of the principal -inhabitants to form the religious gild of Corpus Christi in the Church -of St. Nicholas, in the market-place. This gild was closely connected -with the craft gilds of the town, which must have been in existence at -the beginning of the century. The first records of the gilds occur in -1447, when the Shoemakers (Cordwainers) and the Fullers each gave -recognizances to the Bishop that they would forfeit 20s. to him and 20s. -to the light of Corpus Christi if any member took a Scot as an -apprentice. The ordinances of the Weavers were enrolled and confirmed by -the Bishop in 1450, and in them reference is made to the play which was -to be played when they went in procession on Corpus Christi Day. The -gilds were not merely a picturesque feature of town life, they had also -a powerful influence on the development of the city. The corporation -granted by Bishop Pilkington’s charter of 1565--the first charter of -incorporation which the city obtained--was probably modelled on the -governing body of the Corpus Christi Gild. The governing charter of the -city until 1770 was granted by Bishop Toby Matthew in 1602, and by this -charter the Common Council of the town was to consist of twenty-four -persons, two being chosen from each of the twelve principal companies by -the mayor and aldermen. When the city of Durham obtained Parliamentary -representation in 1678, the franchise of the borough could only be -obtained by membership in one of the companies, and the procedure of -admission was therefore carefully regulated by the mayor and -corporation. But in 1761 Durham experienced two elections within a few -months of each other, and the political excitement completely -demoralized the city. All restraints were thrown to the winds, and -numbers of new freemen were admitted in a most irregular manner. The -reaction of this exciting time on municipal affairs was such that, in -1770, more than half the number of the twelve aldermen had resigned or -been removed, and it was therefore impossible to elect a mayor under the -charter of 1603, which consequently lapsed. The various feuds having -been cooled by an interval of ten years, Bishop Egerton granted a new -charter in 1780, with provisions closely resembling those of the old -one, and under this charter Durham was governed until it was included in -the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835. - -The North Road, on leaving Durham, follows the course of one of the -Roman roads which passed through the county. It leads northward over -Framwellgate Moor, and six miles from Durham passes through -Chester-le-Street, which lies on the banks of the Cone Burn. As the name -indicates, a Roman camp was situated here, and numerous Roman remains -have been found. The monks who had fled from Lindisfarne in 876 with the -body of St. Cuthbert settled at Chester-le-Street after seven years’ -wandering, when peace had been confirmed by the agreement between Alfred -and Guthred the Dane. It was the principal city of the see until 995, -when Bishop Aldhune fled once more before the renewed invasions of the -Danes. In Chester-le-Street the old custom is still kept up of playing a -football-match, in which the whole village takes part, on Shrove -Tuesday. - -The borough of Gateshead lies on the Tyne, eight miles north of -Chester-le-Street. The south end of Tyne Bridge was the site of a Roman -camp, and afterwards, in the seventh century, of a Saxon monastery, -which was destroyed by the Danes. A little church which stood there in -1080 was the scene of the murder of Bishop Walcher, who was killed by -the infuriated populace while he was trying to pacify a feud between his -Norman followers and the Saxon nobles. The church was set on fire, and -the Bishop was killed as he rushed from the burning building. The traces -of early Norman work in the present building show that it must have soon -been rebuilt. The new church is first mentioned in 1256, when a -prisoner who had escaped from the castle of Newcastle took refuge in -Gateshead Church. Gateshead’s only charter was granted by Bishop Hugh -Pudsey at some time between 1154 and 1183, and confirmed by his -successor, Bishop Philip of Poitou. The little borough lay on the -outskirts of the Bishop’s forest of Gateshead, and the charter freed the -burgesses to some extent from the tyranny of that very great man, the -Bishop’s Head Forester. In its form of government the borough was -similar to Darlington. Gateshead has always been one of the principal -commercial centres of the county, and, though there are no signs of -craft gilds there, trade companies second in importance only to those of -Durham existed from the reign of Elizabeth till the end of the -eighteenth century. The prosperity of Gateshead very early excited the -alarm of Newcastle, and the history of the town is studded with the -attempts of its jealous neighbour to suppress its trade. In the -fourteenth century the efforts of the Newcastle Corporation were -directed against the fisheries and staithes on the south bank of the -Tyne, which were frequently destroyed by "the malice of the men of -Newcastle." In 1553 the two towns were united, but the Act was repealed -by Queen Mary, who came to the throne in the same year. It was proposed -to renew the union in 1568, but the anxious petitions of Gateshead, and -the opposition of several influential persons in the Palatinate, -frustrated the scheme. There are, however, several cases in the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries of the interference of Newcastle -with the trade of Gateshead. These troubles were the price that -Gateshead had to pay for its advantageous position by the side of the -greater town. Gateshead was given one representative in the House of -Commons by the Reform Act of 1832, and was incorporated by its inclusion -in the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835. - -The boundary of Durham is now the south bank of the Tyne, but formerly -the Bishop’s jurisdiction extended over one-third of the river, and was -marked by a blue stone on Tyne Bridge. The old bridge, which stood where -the Swing Bridge is now, was built in 1248 to replace the Roman bridge, -Pons Ælii, which dated from _circa_ 119. In 1389 the burgesses of -Newcastle carried off the Blue Stone, seized the whole of the bridge, -and built a tower on the south end, which they held against the Bishop. -It was not until 1415 that Bishop Langley at length obtained judgment -against the Corporation of Newcastle, and took possession of the tower -with all his chivalry. The tower stood until the great flood of 1771, -when part of the bridge was swept away. After this catastrophe the whole -was rebuilt, the new bridge being completed in 1781. The High-Level -Bridge was built in 1849, and the present Swing Bridge replaced the old -stone one in 1876. Meanwhile, the conservation of the River Tyne had -been placed in the hands of commissioners, and the jurisdiction of the -Bishop over the river came to an end. - - -_Durham to South Shields._ - -The city of Durham, lying almost in the centre of the county, is an -excellent point of departure from which to visit the other towns and -places of interest in the Bishopric. The road which leads from the city -to the mouth of the Tyne runs north-east from Framwellgate Bridge. The -principal village through which it passes is Houghton-le-Spring, six and -a half miles from Durham. The place is closely associated with the name -of Bernard Gilpin, the Apostle of the North, who in the reigns of Edward -VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, was Rector of Houghton-le-Spring, and the -chief instrument in spreading Protestant doctrines through the North. -From here it is seven miles to the mouth of the Wear, where stands the -flourishing port of Sunderland. In early records the town - -[Illustration: JACK CRAWFORD’S BIRTH-PLACE, SUNDERLAND.] - -is usually called Wearmouth. It possesses two very interesting charters, -dated respectively 1180-83 and 1634; nevertheless, it did not rise above -the level of a manorial borough until 1835, when it was included in the -Municipal Corporations Act. During the Civil War Sunderland was the -principal centre of the Parliamentarians in Durham, which was on the -whole a Royalist county. The fact that Sunderland was an exception was -due to the influence of the family of Lilburne in the town, George -Lilburne, the uncle of the famous John Lilburne, being the only -magistrate in the borough during the war. At the same time the siege of -Newcastle diverted the coal trade to Sunderland, and thus laid the -foundation of its present prosperity. The town is famous in naval and -military history as the birthplace of two heroes--Jack Crawford, who -"nailed the colours to the mast" at the Battle of Camperdown, 1797, and -Sir Henry Havelock, who relieved Lucknow in 1857. The Sunderland Orphan -Asylum was founded in 1853 by the Freemen and Stallingers of Sunderland, -and endowed with the proceeds of the sale of the Town Moor, which had -become exceedingly valuable in consequence of the building of the -railway. The road crosses the Wear, and enters the parish of -Monkwearmouth. - -The history of Monkwearmouth goes back to 674, when Benedict Biscop -founded there the monastery of St. Peter. The early history of the -monastery was recorded by the Venerable Bede, who relates how Benedict -brought over foreign masons and glass-workers to build his church, and -beautified it with sacred pictures brought from Rome. It was destroyed -by the Danes towards the end of the ninth century, refounded by Bishop -Walcher, _circa_ 1075, and finally annexed to the Convent of Durham by -Bishop William de St. Carileph in 1083. A cell of the convent was -maintained there until the Reformation, and Monkwearmouth continued to -be a manor belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Durham until it was -incorporated with Sunderland. - -From Monkwearmouth the road runs parallel with the coast-line to South -Shields. Shield Lawe, at the mouth of the Tyne, was occupied in -pre-Roman times; an important Roman camp was built there; and later it -was one of the fortresses of the Saxon Kings of Northumbria, and the -site of St. Hilda’s first religious house, founded _circa_ 650. The -little convent was overshadowed by Benedict Biscop’s great monastery of -St. Paul at Jarrow, and both fell before the onslaughts of the Danes. -Jarrow subsequently became a cell of the Convent of Durham, and the -Chapel of St. Hilda at South Shields kept alive the name of the -foundress. After centuries of struggle with the burgesses of Newcastle, -who put down the trade of South Shields with a high hand, the borough -obtained Parliamentary representation in 1832, and incorporation in -1850. In the seventeenth century the salt-pans of South Shields were a -flourishing industry, but its chief importance is now its harbour. The -first lifeboat was built and used there in 1790. - - -_Durham to Hartlepool._ - -The twenty miles of road between Durham and Hartlepool is of an -uninteresting character; but the town of Hartlepool itself has a long -history, which begins in 640, when St. Hieu founded a convent there, of -which St. Hilda was afterwards abbess. The house was destroyed by the -Danes, and Hartlepool disappears from history, to reappear at the end of -the twelfth century as a flourishing port belonging to Robert de Bruce, -Lord of Annandale. Hitherto it had not been included in the Bishopric of -Durham, but in 1189 the overlordship of the whole district of Hartness -was bought by Bishop Hugh Pudsey from Richard I. The succeeding Bishop, -Philip de Poitou, obtained possession of the town, but not until the -burgesses had bought a charter from King John in 1200, granting to them -the customs of Newcastle-on-Tyne, while the same King granted to William -de Bruce, Lord of Hartlepool, the right to hold a weekly market and a -fair at the Feast of St. Lawrence (August 10). The burgesses obtained -another charter from Bishop Richard le Poore in 1230, in which he -conceded to them the right to form a Merchant Gild and to elect a mayor. -From this time the burgesses of Hartlepool were able to manage their own -affairs in their own way, and enjoyed more independence than there was -in any of the other towns of Durham. Their chief misfortunes befell them -after Robert de Bruce became King of Scotland in 1305. Hartlepool -escheated to the King of England, and in consequence the Scots felt a -special enmity against it. The town was attacked more than once in the -ensuing wars, but the walls and ramparts, which had been built by Robert -de Bruce (1245-95) made it one of the strongest places in the Bishopric. -At the beginning of the nineteenth century these fortifications were -still among the finest specimens of Edwardian architecture in the -kingdom, but when the trade of the town revived later in the century, -the ancient walls were pulled down to make way for the new pier and -docks, and hardly any trace of them now remains. In 1599, by the good -offices of Lord Lumley, the burgesses of Hartlepool obtained from Queen -Elizabeth a charter of incorporation, under which the town was governed -until 1834, when the conditions of the charter were not fulfilled, and -it lapsed. The present governing charter of the town was obtained in -1850. The borough of West Hartlepool has grown up in the nineteenth -century on the south side of the bay on which Hartlepool stands. - - -_Durham to Stockton._ - -The Durham and Stockton road passes through Bishop Middleham, where one -of the Bishop’s manor-houses used to stand, and through Sedgefield, -about eleven miles from Durham, a market-town which received the grant -of a weekly market and fair at the Feast of St. Edmund the Bishop -(November 16) from Bishop Kellaw in 1312. - -The borough of Stockton lies on the north bank of the Tees, twenty miles -south of Durham. It is situated in the district which in early times -formed the wapentake of Sadberg, and comprised all the lands lying along -the north bank of the river. The wapentake, which was purchased by -Bishop Pudsey in 1189, at the same time as Hartlepool, had a separate -organization from the rest of the Bishopric, and its courts were held at -Sadberg, which is now a small village about three miles east of -Darlington. Stockton itself, however, seems to have come into the -Bishop’s hands before the purchase of the wapentake, as it is included -in the Boldon Book, 1183. The date of the incorporation of the borough -is unknown, but there are grants by several of the Bishops, dated 1310, -1602, and 1666, of a weekly market and a fair at the Feast of St. Thomas -à Becket (December 29). There is also an interesting letter relating to -the customs practised both at Newcastle and at Stockton, which was sent -by the Mayor of Newcastle - -[Illustration: THE PALACE, BISHOP AUCKLAND.] - -to the Mayor of Stockton in 1344 in reply to certain questions which the -people of Stockton had addressed to Newcastle as their mother town. The -municipal government of the borough was in the hands of the mayor and -the borough-holders, seventy-two in number, until Stockton was included -in the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835. - - -_Durham to Barnard Castle._ - -The road to Barnard Castle branches off from the North Road about a mile -south of Sunderland Bridge, and travels south-west into Aucklandshire. -This district included Binchester, Escomb, Newton, and all the -Aucklands, Bishop Auckland, St. Andrew’s Auckland, St. Helen’s Auckland, -and South Auckland. Aucklandshire lay on the borders of the Bishop’s -great forest of Weardale, and the services of the tenants, as described -in Boldon Book, were closely connected with the Bishop’s great -hunting-parties in the forest. All the tenants had to provide ropes for -snaring the deer, and to help to build the Bishop’s hall in the forest, -with a larder, a buttery, a chamber, a chapel, and a fence round the -whole encampment, when the Bishop went on the great hunt. They also kept -eyries of falcons for the Bishop, and attended the roe-hunt when -summoned. In return for their services at the great hunt they received a -tun of beer, or half a tun if the Bishop did not come, and 2s. "as a -favour." The little town of Bishop Auckland was called a borough in the -fourteenth century, when the weekly markets and the fairs held on -Ascension Day, Corpus Christi Day, and the Thursday before October 10, -formed the chief commercial centre of the neighbourhood, but it has -never been incorporated, and is now an urban district. - -To the south of Aucklandshire lies the barony of Evenwood, about a -quarter of a mile west of the road. This was one of the early baronies -of the Bishopric, held by the family of Hansard. Evenwood was bought by -Bishop Bek in 1294, and his successors maintained a manor-house and park -there. After passing by Evenwood, the road leads through Raby Park to -Staindrop. - -Staindrop was one of the vills over which the Bishop and the Convent of -Durham disputed at the beginning of the twelfth century. Bishop Ralph -Flambard restored it to the monks by the charter of restitution which he -executed on his death-bed; and they kept it out of the clutches of -succeeding Bishops by granting it in 1131 at an annual rental of £4 to -Dolphin, son of Ughtred, one of the progenitors of the family of -Neville. Henceforward, Staindrop remained part of the Neville estates in -the Bishopric. In 1378 Bishop Hatfield granted to John Lord Neville the -right to hold a weekly market and a fair there at the Feast of St. -Thomas the Martyr (December 21). The whole of the Neville estates were -confiscated in 1570, after the rebellion of the Earls of Northumberland -and Westmorland in 1569, and Staindrop remained in the hands of the King -until 1632, when it was purchased by Sir Henry Vane, from whom the -present owner, Lord Barnard, is descended. - -Barnard Castle is twenty-five miles from Durham, and lies on the north -bank of the Tees. It did not form part of the Bishopric at the time of -the Conquest, and was granted by William Rufus to Guy Balliol in 1093. -Barnard Balliol, his son, built the castle _circa_ 1132, and apparently -founded the borough, for the first extant charter, granted by his son -Barnard to the burgesses of Barnard Castle _circa_ 1167, refers to the -elder Barnard’s concessions to them. By this charter the burgesses were -granted the customs of Richmond (Yorks). Barnard Castle was a manorial -borough, and is now an urban district. The burgesses obtained charters -from Hugh (1212-28), John (_circa_ 1230), and Alexander, third son of -John. All the Balliol estates in England were forfeited by John Balliol, -sometime King of Scotland, in 1295. Barnard Castle was claimed by Bishop -Bek, but Edward I. granted it to Guy - -[Illustration: BARNARD CASTLE.] - -Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. The Bishops of Durham made frequent efforts -to obtain possession of the town, and although they were unsuccessful, -they obtained Parliamentary recognition of the fact that Barnard Castle -was part of the Bishopric. Richard III., by his marriage with Lady Anne -of Warwick, became lord of the town, which Lady Anne inherited from her -father, the King-maker. Barnard Castle escheated to the crown in 1485, -and was finally granted to the Earl of Westmorland. In 1569, on -receiving the news that the northern Earls had risen against the Queen, -Sir George Bowes of Streatlam seized and garrisoned the castle, where he -was besieged by the rebels; and although he was forced to surrender -after a ten days’ siege, the delay had given the royal troops time to -come up, and insured the defeat of the insurgents. After the rebellion -Barnard Castle escheated to the crown again, and was leased to the -valiant Bowes. It was finally purchased by Sir Henry Vane in 1632 (see -above). - - -_Durham to Alston._ - -The road from Durham to Alston, in Cumberland, passes by the field of -the Battle of Neville’s Cross, fought on St. Luke’s Eve, October 17, -1346, in which David of Scotland, who had invaded England while Edward -III. and all his forces were in France, was defeated by the troops which -he contemptuously called "an army of women and priests," because they -were raised by Queen Philippa, and the four divisions were commanded by -the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the Bishops of Lincoln and -Durham. The cross which Ralph, Lord Neville, erected on the battle-field -was destroyed in 1589. - -The next place of interest on the road is Brancepeth, which lies four -and a half miles south-west of Durham. The family of Bulmer of -Brancepeth held one of the early baronies of the Bishopric (see under -Evenwood); the estate finally descended to an heiress, the first of the -many noble ladies whose stories lend interest to the place. She married -Geoffry de Neville, _circa_ 1150. Sixty years after, in 1227, there was -again a sole heiress to Brancepeth; she married Robert FitzMeldred, Lord -of Raby, and her son assumed his mother’s name, becoming the first -Neville of Raby and Brancepeth. When the Neville estates were forfeited -in 1570, the Countess of Westmorland was allowed to remain at the -castle, and there, though beset by spies, she contrived her husband’s -escape to Flanders. The surveys of the estate that were made in 1597 and -1614 mention that wild cattle were preserved in Brancepeth Park, as they -still are at Chillingham. The escheated lands passed from one owner to -another. In 1769 they were again inherited by an heiress, Bridgit, the -only daughter of William Bellasis. She died five years after coming into -her inheritance. The story goes that she pined away for love of a -neighbouring squire, Robert Shafto, who had wooed and forsaken her; and -the old Bishopric song of "Bobby Shafto" is said to be the record of the -brief happiness of the lovelorn lady. - -The market-town of Wolsingham lies sixteen miles west of Durham. It was -one of the Bishop’s forest vills, lying on the moors of Weardale; and in -the entry about it in Boldon Book mention is made of Ralf the Beekeeper, -who held six acres for his service in keeping the bees, which were sent -out on to the blossoming heather in the twelfth century, as they are to -this day. Wolsingham lies on the north bank of the Wear, and, after -passing through the village, the road follows the course of the river -westward to Stanhope, which lies in the lead-mining district of West -Durham. Half-way between Wolsingham and Stanhope lies Frosterley, where -are the quarries of Frosterley marble. - -Stanhope itself lay in the heart of the forest of Weardale, and was the -spot to which all those who owed hunting-service must make their way -when the Bishop’s great hunt was proclaimed. In 1327 the English and - -[Illustration: BRANCEPETH CASTLE IN 1777.] - -Scottish armies, commanded on the one side by Edward III., and on the -other by the Earl of Murray and Sir James Douglas, lay encamped for some -days over against each other on the hills round Stanhope. No battle was -fought, and the Scots withdrew by night, having deceived Edward by false -intelligence. The remains of the earthworks in which the two armies -entrenched themselves may still be seen. - -St. John’s Chapel, seven miles west of Stanhope, is the last -considerable village on the road to Alston before it crosses the -boundary of Durham. The chapel is mentioned in the fifteenth century, -and a market and annual fair were held there, but there were few -inhabitants until the end of the eighteenth century. From St. John’s -Chapel the road leads up over the moors, past the sources of the Wear, -and crosses the county boundary on Killhope Moor. - - - - -FOLK-LORE OF THE COUNTY OF DURHAM - -BY MRS. NEWTON W. APPERLEY - - -Whoever makes a study of the folk-lore of a county will find that its -customs, beliefs, and superstitions, have their origin in immemorial -antiquity. To find out the reason for many a curious and apparently -frivolous observance it is necessary to go back many centuries, to the -time when a nature-worship, already immeasurably old, was practised; -when the sun and moon, fire, water, and earth, were personified by gods -and goddesses. Festivals were held in honour of each, and stones and -trees, wells and rivers, had their temples and devotees. These were -overlaid by and mingled with the successive rituals of Roman, Saxon, and -Dane, and finally were almost, but not quite, conquered by Christianity. -The older faiths made a stubborn resistance to the reformer, and though -adapted and altered, many of their usages survive to this day. - -The four great Fire Festivals of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter were -Christianized and dedicated anew; some of the gods and goddesses were -re-named as saints; and many of the rites belonging to their worship -were modified into Christian observances. - -But the people kept their old superstitions, and placed their faith in -the charms and amulets belonging to the ancient worship. In the North -especially the old beliefs lingered long, and even now, in the twentieth -century, many quaint customs are to be found. Most of the people who -practise them could give no reason for so doing, and have certainly no -knowledge of their origin. It is "lucky" to do this, and "unlucky" to do -that, is all they can say. - -The county of Durham, though the especial patrimony and property of St. -Cuthbert, is particularly rich in legends and traditions, in places both -haunted and hallowed, and in old-world observances of all kinds. Many -are the stories of giants, brownies, fairies, ghosts, witches, and -"worms" or dragons, told of and in it. - -The Gabriel Hounds--those monstrous human-headed dogs, whose pause over -a house is said to bring death or misfortune to its inmates--are still -heard traversing the air, though they are seldom seen. - -Tales of the Hand of Glory--that unhallowed taper made of the hand of a -hanged man, holding a candle made of the fat of a murderer, whose light -would send all the inhabitants of a house to sleep, and enable a burglar -to make his easy way throughout it--are still told. - -And the Fairy Hills near Castleton, Hetton-le-Hole, Middridge, and other -places where fairies used to dance their nightly rounds, are still -pointed out. Cattle were often shot by their tiny arrows, and children -frequently wore necklaces of coral or of peony seeds, as otherwise they -might have been stolen and taken away to Fairyland. - -Mr. Henderson, in his _Folk-lore of the Northern Counties_, is convinced -that there is firm faith in ghosts and their power of revisiting the -earth throughout the whole county of Durham. - -Witchcraft is to some extent believed in. It is not long since an old -woman reputed to be a witch died at Aycliffe, and charms against their -power have been, and are still, practised; indeed, they are still -"crossed-out" by those who make the sign of the cross on loaves before -they are put in the oven, and by the butchers who make, or used to make, -a cross on the shoulder before selling it. A crooked sixpence, a piece -of rowan-wood, or a four-leaved clover worn in the pocket, will keep -them away. A self-bored stone or a horseshoe hung over the bed or in the -byre will prevent their evil influence from harming either person or -property; and should you be so unfortunate as to meet a reputed witch, -it is well to close your fingers round your thumb, and repeat the rhyme: - - "Witchy, witchy, I defy thee, - Let me go quietly by thee!" - -And there were wise men, and especially wise women, who knew many spells -of might to be used against them and against fairies. - -It is clear that a child born into this haunted country, and surrounded -from his birth by signs, portents, and auguries, must carry through his -life a belief in the superstitions of his forefathers. - -The day of birth is most important, for it always influences the -character and fortunes of the child. - - "Monday’s child is fair of face, - Tuesday’s child is full of grace, - Wednesday’s child is full of woe, - Thursday’s child has far to go, - Friday’s child is loving and giving, - Saturday’s child works hard for its living; - But the child that’s born on Sabbath-day - Is wise and bonny and good and gay." - -Children born during the hour after midnight see spirits, and this -uncanny gift continues through life. If born with a caul, the child will -always be lucky. Children born in May are said to be seldom healthy. - -A cake and cheese should always be provided before the birth of an -infant. These are cut by the doctor, and all present partake of them, on -pain of the poor child growing up ugly. The nurse keeps some of this -cake and cheese, and when she takes the child to be christened she gives -them to the first person whom she meets of opposite sex to that of the -child. If boys and girls are being christened at the same time, the boys -must be christened first, as otherwise the girls would have beards, the -boys none! - -Baptism is thought to be good for a child, and it is often said that -children never thrive till they are christened. It is well if they cry -during the ceremony, for it means that "the devil is going out of them." -There is some warrant for this belief, for until the time of Edward VI. -a form of exorcism, in order to expel the evil spirit from the child, -was still used in the Baptismal Service. - -A child who does not cry at baptism will not live. - -It is unlucky to call a child by its future name until it has actually -received it, and most especially should one avoid naming it after a dead -brother or sister. The child will probably die also, or, if it lives, -will never prosper. - -Some nurses will never put a child’s dress over its head until it is -christened, but always draw it up over the feet. I never could hear why. -And the inside of the hands should not be washed during this time. Some -go so far as to say that the right hand should not be washed for a year, -so as not to "wash the luck away." - -But before taking a child out of its mother’s room the careful nurse -will see that it does not go downstairs first, as that would mean a -descent in life for it. If it is impossible for it to go upstairs, she -must take it in her arms, and mount a chair or stool with it, thereby -assuring it of a rise in life. - -The mother should go nowhere till she has been churched, as she would -carry ill-luck to the house she entered. - -The baby should receive three, sometimes four, presents when it first -visits another house. These are its "almison," and consist of an egg, -bread, salt, and sometimes a piece of money. The bread and salt are -things used in sacrifices; the egg has always been a sacred emblem; the -money is for luck, and should be carefully kept. - -Never rock a cradle when empty, or you may rock another baby into it. -And this is very likely to be the case if the reigning baby cuts its -teeth very early, for, as the proverb says, "Soon teeth, soon toes" -(another set of them). If it tooths first in the upper jaw, that means -death in infancy. Later, on losing a tooth, the cavity should be filled -with salt, and the tooth thrown into the fire with the words: - - "Fire, fire, burn bane, - God send me my tooth again!" - -It is an ancient custom, when a family is sold up, to except the cradle, -and leave it in the possession of its original owner. - -The nails should not be cut for a year, or the child will become a -thief. Bite them off, and all will be well. - -When the child grows older, the nails should never be cut on Friday or -Sunday. These are unlucky days, but, as the rhyme tells us, other days -do very well: - - "Cut them on Monday, cut them for health; - Cut them on Tuesday, cut them for wealth; - Cut them on Wednesday, cut them for news; - Cut them on Thursday, a pair of new shoes; - Cut them on Friday, cut them for sorrow; - Cut them on Saturday, a present to-morrow; - But he who on Sunday cuts his horn, - Better that he had ne’er been born!" - -Still later in life, another verse says: - - "Sunday shaven, Sunday shorn, - Better hadst thou ne’er been born!" - -The hair should always be cut when the moon is waxing, and all clippings -and combings should be burnt, or "the birds will take it for their -nests." Probably the original idea, like that attached to the clippings -of the nails, was that they should be destroyed, lest some enemy should -use them to work an evil spell against the owner. - -If the hair burn brightly when thrown into the fire, it means long life -to the owner; if it smoulder, it is a sign of death. - -If you swallow a hair, it will wrap itself round your heart and kill -you. Howitt tells this seriously as having caused the death of Herbert -Southey. - -The mother should be careful to see that no child is allowed to jump -over the head of another, as in that case the overleapt infant would -never grow. The Kafirs have the same idea, and some tribes will not play -leap-frog for that reason. - -When a seventh son is born, it is still said that he ought to be a -doctor. He was anciently supposed to be able to cure the "king’s evil" -by touching; and the seventh son of a seventh son had still higher and -more Divine attributes. If a seventh daughter appeared without any boy -intervening, she was to be a witch. - -When the boy is old enough to put his instilled and inherited beliefs -into practice, he may charm the butterfly to alight on his hand by -saying (it must be said often enough!): - - "Le, la let, ma bonnie pet!" - -If he wishes for fine weather, he may sing: - - "Rain, rain, go to Spain! - Fair weather come again!" - -The snail will look out from its shell if he says: - - "Snail, snail, come out of your hole, - Or else I’ll beat you as black as a coal!" - -And when stung by a nettle, dock-leaves are laid on the stung place, and -this rhyme chanted: - - "Nettle in, dock out; - Dock in, nettle out; - Nettle in, dock out; - Dock rub nettle out!" - -If he puts a horse-hair into water, it will turn into an eel. - -Durham schoolboys used, when they saw a rainbow, to make a cross of -straws or twigs upon the ground, in order to send it away, or, as they -said, to "cross out the rainbow." - -Borrow tells of "the gipsy mystery of the trus’hul, how by making a -cross of two sticks the expert in occultism could wipe the rainbow out -of the heavens"; and the charm might have its roots still farther back -in the cross of Thor, anciently used to dispel rain and thunderstorms. - -In Confirmation, those who are touched by the Bishop’s left hand will -never marry. - -When the time for marriage comes, it is important to choose a lucky day -and season. The days of the week are thus fated: - - "Monday for wealth, Tuesday for health, - Wednesday the best day of all; - Thursday for losses, Friday for crosses, - And Saturday no luck at all." - -It is well to avoid marriage in Lent, for - - "If you marry in Lent, - You’ll live to repent." - -And May is an unlucky month for weddings, as for births. But the time -being happily settled, the bride must not hear the banns given out, or -her children will be deaf and dumb, and neither she nor any of the -guests must wear anything green. She should wear - - "Something old, something new, - Something borrowed, and something blue." - -The day of the marriage should be fine, "for happy is the bride whom the -sun shines on." The bridal party is escorted to church by men armed with -guns, which they continually fire. After the ceremony it is the -clergyman’s privilege to kiss the bride; and outside the church people -are probably waiting with "hot-pots," of which the whole party must -taste. - -At St. Helen’s Auckland, and other villages, the "race for the -bride-door" for a ribbon or kerchief is still customary. - -And it was formerly the custom to address complimentary verses to the -bridal couple before they left the church. This was called "saying the -Nominy." The verses differed, were of no great poetical merit, and -always ended with, "Pray remember the Nominy sayer." - -The word is evidently derived from _nomen_, the bride having received a -new name. - -The loss of the wedding-ring means the loss of the husband’s love, and -its breaking forbodes death. - -Of portents of death there are many. The howling of dogs; the flight of -jackdaws or swallows down the chimney; "a winding-sheet" in the candle; -the crowing of a cock at the dead of night; the hovering of birds round -the house, or their resting on the window-sill, or flapping against the -pane; and three raps given by an invisible hand, are all auguries of -death. - -If thirteen persons sit down to a meal together, one of them will die -before the year is out. - -The custom of keeping the Vigil of St. Mark is not unknown. They who -wish to know who of their fellow-parishioners will die during the coming -year must keep watch in the church porch from eleven to one, on St. -Mark’s Eve, for three successive years; then the doomed company will -pass into the church. But if the watcher fall asleep during his vigil, -he will himself die during the year. - -At the time of death the door should be left open to afford free passage -to the departing spirit. It is held that no one can die on a bed or -pillow containing the feathers of pigeons or of game of any kind; and -all along the East Coast it is said that people usually die during the -falling of the tide. - -When the corpse is "laid out," the death-chamber is shrouded in white, -the clock is stopped, and the looking-glass covered, to show that for -the dead time is no more and earthly vanity departed. There is also the -dread that if the mirror were left uncovered the ghost of the dead man -might be reflected in it. - -A plate of salt is also placed upon the breast as an emblem of eternity. - -Those who come to see the corpse are expected to touch it, in token that -they are in peace with the dead. It is often said that if you do not -touch it you will dream of it. The coffin must be carried to the church -by the old-established "church-road," and the notion still prevails that -the way over which a body is carried to its burial thereby becomes a -highroad. Therefore in the case of private roads or bridges (the -Prebend’s Bridge at Durham, certainly) a small toll is levied when a -funeral procession passes over it. The coffin-bearers are usually chosen -so as to correspond with the deceased in sex, age, and position. In the -case of children and young girls, white scarves and gloves are worn; and -if the dead person were a young unmarried woman, a "maiden garland" used -to be laid on the coffin, and hung up in the church after the funeral. -There are, or were, some of these garlands hanging in the church of -Witton-Gilbert, near Durham. These have a glove, cut out of white paper, -in the midst. - -When arrived at the churchyard, the dead must be carried to the grave -the way of the sun (east, by south, west, and north, for "ye wad no hae -them carry the dead again the sun; the dead maun aye go wi’ the sun." -This is an old British usage, and in the Highlands is called "making the -deisul." It is practised to bring good luck; to go round in the opposite -direction (or "withershins") is an evil incantation, and brings -ill-fortune. - -It should rain a little during the procession, for "happy is the corpse -that the rain rains on!" - -It used to be customary for anyone meeting a funeral to stop for a -moment and take his hat off. This is still occasionally done. - -The survivors should not grieve too much for the dead, as this hinders -their repose. - -When the head of a house dies, the bees should be told of their master’s -death, and asked to accept the new one, or they will all die. - -It is said that if a loaf of bread weighted with quicksilver be allowed -to float in the water, it will swim towards, and stand over the place -where the body of a drowned person lies. - -There is a remedy for most diseases in the shape of a spell or charm. - -Whooping-cough may be cured by passing the child under an ass; or by -taking some milk, giving half to a white ferret, letting the child drink -the rest. In Sunderland, the crown of the head is shaved and the hair -hung upon a bush, so that the birds, carrying it to their nests, may -take the cough with it. - -For epilepsy, a half-crown may be offered at Communion and then asked -for again, and made into a ring to be worn by the person affected. - -For cramp, garter the left leg below the knee, or tie an eel’s skin -round it. - -A more unpleasant remedy is that for a wen, for the touch of a corpse’s -hand will cure it. "Andrew Mills’s stob" (gibbet) was once thought -sovereign against toothache. - -Warts can be charmed away by taking a piece of raw meat (it ought to be -stolen), rubbing the warts with it, and throwing it away. As the meat -decays the warts will vanish. - -If anyone is bitten by a dog, the animal should be destroyed, for, -should it go mad at any time, the person bitten would be attacked by -hydrophobia. - -St. Agnes’s Fast (January 21) is thus practised: Two girls, each wishing -to see their future husbands, must fast and be dumb through the whole of -St. Agnes’s Eve. At night, in the same silence, they must make "the dumb -cake," aided by their friends, then divide it in two parts, one of which -each girl takes, walks backwards upstairs, cuts the cake, and retires to -bed. Then dreams of the future husband should follow. - -And girls will stick a candle-end full of pins to bring their lovers to -them. Or, taking an apple-pip, and naming the lover, will put it in the -fire. If it burst with a noise he loves, but if it burns silently his -love is nought. - -If a girl wishes to meet her future husband, she must carry an ash-leaf -having an even tip, and say-- - - "The even ash-leaf in my hand, - The first I meet shall be my man." - -If it is found difficult to rear calves, the leg of one of the dead -animals should be hung in the chimney. In Yorkshire, the dead calf is -buried under the threshold of the byre, either practice being -(unconsciously) a sacrifice to Odin. - -"To work as though one was working for need-fire," is a common proverb -in the North, and refers to the practice of producing fire by the -friction of two pieces of wood. This was done when the murrain prevailed -among cattle, and the diseased animals were made to pass through the -smoke raised by this holy fire. This was considered a certain cure. When -cattle have foul in the feet, the turf on which the beast treads with -the affected foot is taken up and hung in the open air. As it crumbles -away, so will the diseased foot recover. - -And the water in which Irish and other stones have been steeped has been -used in the Bishopric as a cure for disease for cattle. - -If you seize the opportunities, which are many, you may have what you -please by wishing for it. But the condition is in every case the same: -the nature of the wish must be kept secret. You may journey to Jarrow, -and sitting in Bede’s chair, make your wish; or, nearer at hand, there -is a stone seat at Finchale Priory credited with the same power. If you -see a horseshoe or a nail, pick it up, throw it over your left shoulder -and wish; and wish also if you see a piebald horse, but you must manage -to do so before you see its tail. - -You may wish, too, when you first hear the cuckoo, and when you see the -new moon. - -Much reverence has in all ages been paid to wells. The Worm Well at -Lambton was once in high repute as a wishing-well, and a crooked pin -(the usual tribute of the "wishers") may be sometimes still discovered -sparkling among the clear gravel of the bottom of the basin. - -As late as 1740 children troubled with any infirmity were brought to the -Venerable Bede’s Well, at Monkton, near Jarrow. A crooked pin was put -in, and the well laved dry between each dipping. - -Pins may sometimes be seen in Lady Byron’s Well at Seaham. There was a -custom (which cannot now be practised, as the monument is railed in) of -walking nine times round Neville’s Cross. "Then if you stoop down, and -lay your head to the turf, you’ll hear the noise of the battle and the -clash of the armour." - -The weather-wise will tell you that if the leaves remain long upon the -trees in autumn it is going to be a hard winter, and will bid you notice -how the wind blows on New Year’s Eve: - - "If on New Year’s Eve the night wind blow south, - It betokeneth warmth and growth; - If west, much milk and fish in the sea; - If north, much cold and storms there will be; - If east, the trees will bear much fruit; - If north-east, flee it, man and brute." - -Candlemas Day (February 2) should also be observed: - - "If Candlemas Day be fair and bright, - Winter will have another flight; - If Candlemas Day be clouds and rain, - Winter is gone, and will not come again." - -Some pretend to prophesy the coming weather from that of the last three -days of March. These are called the "borrowing days." - - "March borrowed from April - Three days and they war ill; - The first o’ them war wind and weet, - The next o’ them war snaw and sleet, - The last o’ them war wind and rain, - Which gar’d the silly puir ewes come hirpling hame." - -Of Michaelmas Day it is said: "So many days old the moon is on -Michaelmas Day, so many floods after." - -If it rains on Friday it is sure to rain on Sunday--“wet Friday, wet -Sunday." - -Watch the cat as she washes her face, and if she passes her paw over her -ear it will rain to-morrow. - -The oak and ash-trees are considered to prophesy the weather: - - "If the oak bud before the ash, - We shall be sure to have a splash; - But if the ash bud before the oak, - We shall have weather as hard as a rock." - -If you will begin the year auspiciously, be careful that your first foot -"is a fair man." Men still go about to "bring the New Year in," and -their guerdon is usually a glass of whisky. On no account should a woman -be the first foot, for she would bring misfortune. But before this the -New Year has been ushered in by the ringing of church bells, and -sounding of buzzers from all the collieries. - -Nothing should be allowed to go out of the house on this day, for that -would mean a year of poverty, but as much as possible should be brought -in, as that will insure a year of plenty; and for the same reason a new -dress should be worn with money in its pocket. - -Be careful to avoid seeing the first moon of the year through glass; -courtesy to her, and wish. - -The day before Shrove Tuesday is known as Collop Monday, and on it eggs -and bacon should be eaten. - -Pancakes, of course, are appropriate to Shrove Tuesday; in fact, it is -better known in the North as Pancake Tuesday. Durham children still -believe that on this day pancakes fall out of the mouth of the great -medieval knocker fixed on the north door of the cathedral, and are -sometimes seen bringing plates or baskets to receive the dole, and sugar -with which to eat it. - -The Pancake Bell still rings from the cathedral to call the faithful to -confession, though neither confessional nor pancakes are existent. - -Football usually begins now and continues till Easter. - -Carlings, or grey peas soaked in water and fried in butter, are eaten on -Carling Sunday. - -"He who hath not a palm in his hand on Palm Sunday must have his hand -cut off," so "palm crosses" were always made for Palm Sunday of willow -catkins, tied up with ribbon, and kept till next year. - -On Good Friday "hot cross buns," a sort of teacake made with spice and -sugar, and marked with a cross, are always made; and fig pudding, or -"fig sue," is eaten, in memory of the fig-tree cursed by our Lord when -He rode to Jerusalem. - -No blacksmith in the county of Durham would at one time drive a nail on -this day, in memory of our Lord’s crucifixion. - -Good Friday and Easter Sunday were both thought lucky days on which to -cast the coats and caps of young children, or to short-coat them. - -You must put on something new on Easter Sunday, or the birds will spoil -your clothes. - -Paste-eggs boiled hard and dyed with ribbons or wool, whinblossoms or -onion peelings, are rolled on the grass, or "jauped" against each other -till broken, and tansy puddings should be eaten. - -Balls are often given to children and played with by them, this being a -relic of the custom of playing at "handball" at Easter. - -On Easter Sunday the boys may pull off the girls’ shoes; but on Easter -Monday the girls may retaliate by pulling off the caps of the boys. - -"All Fools’ Day" is still kept to some extent, chiefly by schoolboys, -who send their victims to the chemist for oil of hazel, or "strap oil," -which they receive in a dry form from the irate shop-keeper! - -They also wear oak-leaves on Royal Oak Day; and the choristers of -Durham Cathedral go to the top of the central tower and sing anthems. -This, though now done in honour of the Restoration, was originally in -thanksgiving for the victory of Neville’s Cross, and used to take place -in October. - -And it is schoolboys, too, who keep Guy Fawkes’ Day in remembrance, for -the noise of crackers and fireworks and the excitement of a bonfire do -very much appeal to them. Guys are now seldom carried about, but are -sometimes burnt. - -The "mell-supper" in the county of Durham (from the Norse _melr_, corn) -is akin to the Northumbrian "kirn-feast," and is held when the last -sheaf is brought in. When this is done, the farmer’s headman proceeds to -"shout the mell": - - "Blest be the day that Christ was born. - We’ve getten mell o’ Mr. ----’s corn. - Weel won and better shorn. - Hip, hip, hip, huzza, huzza!" - -This last sheaf used to be dressed in finery and crowned with wheatears, -hoisted on a pole, and all the harvesters danced round this "kern-baby," -or harvest-queen, who afterward presided over the supper. Mummers, or -"guisers," used to attend the feast, but all these usages are dying out, -and the master often gives the harvesters money or ale instead of the -supper. This is the old autumn feast of the ingathering of the corn, and -in Brito-Roman times the image was that of the goddess Ceridwen, -answering to Ceres. Later, it stood for the Virgin Mary. - -You must not gather brambles after October, or the devil will come after -you! He is evidently about at this time, for when the brambles are -spoilt at the end of the season, it is said that "the devil has set his -foot on the bummelkites," this being their local name. - -Hallow E’en sports are still practised, the mystic apple so often -appearing in Celtic fairy-lore, playing a great part in them. Apples -are ducked for in a tub of water with the mouth, the hands being clasped -behind the back. A small rod of wood is sometimes suspended from the -ceiling, a lighted candle being fixed at one end, and an apple at the -other. The apple has to be caught by the teeth when it passes before -them, and if it is carefully pared, so that the peel comes off in one -strip, and this is flung over the left shoulder, it will form the -initials of the loved one’s name. Or it may be eaten before a mirror, -and the lover’s face will be reflected therein; but on no account must -the worker of this spell look backwards. - -At Christmas-tide Yule cakes and "Yule dollies" are made, these last -being quaint figures made of dough, with currants to mark their features -and the outlines of their dress. Furmety (wheat boiled in milk) is -eaten, the Yule log is burnt, and the Christmas stocking is hung up that -gifts may be placed in it. Candles are still given by grocers; the -fruiterer presents a bunch of mistletoe; children come round and sing -carols, bearing a box containing figures of the Virgin and Child. The -sword-dancers or "guisers" come, perform a dance and sing a song, the -words of which vary considerably. - -Finally, as many mince-pies as you eat at Christmas, so many happy -months will you have. - -Here is "a copious catalogue of things lucky and unlucky," at least of -those considered as such in the Bishopric: - -If you accidentally put on a stocking, or indeed any garment, inside -out, it is most fortunate, and the mistake should not be rectified, you -will turn the luck. - -But if you put a button or hook into the wrong hole while dressing in -the morning, something unpleasant will happen to you during the day. - -"Sing before breakfast, cry before supper," is an oft-quoted proverb, -perhaps deduced from the common belief that unusually high spirits -portend coming misfortune. - -When a child first puts on a dress with a pocket in it, its father -should put some money into it; this means lifelong riches. - -On putting on a new dress, a well-wisher will say to the owner, "I wish -you health to wear it, strength to tear it, and money to buy another." - -Similarly, when a young tradesman first dons his apron, it is well to -say to him: "Weel may ye brook your apron." This, if said by a lucky -person, will insure the young man’s success in life. - -If a spider is found on the clothes, it means that money is coming to -you; and if clothes must be mended while being worn, you will lose -money. - -If the hem of your dress persistently turns up, a letter is coming to -you. - -If your apron falls off, someone is thinking of you. - -Those who can always guess the time accurately will never be married. - -If the nose itches, you will be annoyed; if the foot, you will travel. - -Itching of the right hand, money is coming to you; of the left, that you -will have to pay money; of the ear, hearing sudden news. - -If the right ear tingles, someone is defaming you. - -If you shiver, someone is walking over your grave. - -A blessing is still invoked on people when they sneeze. - -Meeting eyebrows are fortunate; so is a mole on the neck, at least, it -means health to the owner, but some say that it brings him in danger of -hanging. - -Always enter a house with your right foot first; to enter with the left -foot brings ill luck to the inhabitants, and you must go back and repair -the mistake. - -If you stumble, by accident, in going upstairs, you will be married the -same year; the same if you snuff out the candle (this omen is becoming -rarer with the decline of tallow candles). - -If two people wash their hands in the same basin, they are sure to -quarrel before bedtime, but this may be prevented by making the sign of -the cross over the water. - -If your eyes are weak, have your ears pierced, it will benefit them. - -If a loaf be turned upside down after cutting, it is unlucky. Along the -coast they say that it causes a ship to be wrecked. The same if three -candles are placed upon the table. - -If a loaf breaks in the hand while cutting it, you part man and wife. - -And spilling the salt is as ominous here as elsewhere, but you may amend -your luck by throwing a pinch three times over your left shoulder with -your right hand. - -"Help me to saut, help me to sorrow," would be the answer to the person -who should offer to place salt on the plate of another. - -To cross the knife and fork is a sign of bad luck. To give a knife cuts -love; it should always be paid for. Only last Christmas I gave a knife -to an old friend, and she punctiliously sent a penny to me in payment -for it. - -Do not lend a pin, your friend may take one, but it is unlucky to give -it. - -Never begin anything on Friday, it will not prosper. - -If you must pass under a ladder, cross your fingers and wish. The -unsophisticated spit; and if you are walking with anyone wait for him to -speak first, and any ill luck that may be coming will fall on his head. - -"Spitting for luck" is still common enough. Hucksters and fish-women -spit on the handsel (the first money they receive), and many -horsedealers do the same. Colliers, when considering a strike, used to -spit on one stone together, by way of cementing their confederacy, and -schoolboys used to spit their faith when making a challenge to fight. -This was considered a sacred pledge which it was thought a point of -honour to fulfil. - -It is wrong to point at the stars, or even to count them; you may be -struck dead for doing so. - -Hawthorn blossoms should not be brought into the house; they are as -unlucky as peacock’s feathers, which also should never be brought -indoors. - -And evergreens should not be burnt. - - "If you burn green, - Your sorrow’s soon seen." - -The luck of three is much believed in. If you fail twice in trying to do -a thing, you will probably succeed in the third trial. "The third time’s -catchy time." - -Servants say that if they break one thing they are sure to break three, -a foreboding which not seldom comes true. - -And when the minute-bell of the cathedral rings once it is bound to ring -three times. - -If you break a looking-glass, you will have no luck for seven years. -Some say that it betokens a death in the house, probably that of its -master. - -If a black cat enters the house, it must by no means be turned away, for -it brings good luck. - - "Wherever the cat of the house is black, - The lasses of lovers will have no lack." - -Kittens born in May are unlucky and useless, never keep them. - -It is lucky, when you see the first lamb of the year, if its head is -turned towards you; but unlucky, if its tail. - -It is thought that hedgehogs suck cows as they lie asleep. - -A toad is poisonous; do not touch it. - -In all ages the flight and behaviour of birds have been thought worthy -of notice. - -When setting hens, the number of eggs should be odd (generally eleven or -thirteen); if the number be even, you will have no chickens. A hen that -crows brings ill luck, just as does a woman who whistles. - -If the hens come into the house, or if the cock crows on the threshold, -a visitor is coming. If you have money in your pocket and turn it when -you first hear the cuckoo you will be rich all that year; but if your -pocket be empty so it will remain. There is a small bird attending on -the cuckoo, generally a meadow-pipit. It is called in Durham the -cuckoo’s sandy, and is supposed to provide its patron with food. - -When the peacock screams, it is going to rain. - -The magpie is an unlucky bird because it would not go into the ark with -Noah, but sat outside, "jabbering at the drowned world." - - "One is sorrow, two mirth, - Three a wedding, four a birth, - Five heaven, six hell, - Seven the de’il’s ain sel’!" - -But if you have the misfortune to see one magpie you may nullify the -omen by making the sign of the cross, or, as some do, by waving a hand -at the evil bird, and saying, "Mag, I defy thee." - -The raven is thought to be an unlucky bird, though here in Durham city -we should think better of it, for one made the fortune of Sir John Duck -by dropping a gold piece at his feet when he was a poor out-of-work -butcher-boy. He became a rich coal-owner, and in his memory coals are -often called "ducks" in Durham; and the "Old Duck Main" still exists at -Rainton. - -If rooks, or crows, as we call them here, desert a rookery, it means the -downfall of the family on whose property it is. Swallows, once sacred to -the Penates, and honoured as the heralds of the spring, are lucky, and -their nests must never be pulled down, as they bring good fortune to the -place where they build, and it bodes ill luck if they leave a place they -have once tenanted. - -Naturally, much local lore has gathered round the cathedral, the great -Mother-Church of the diocese. The death superstition relating to the -minute-bell, the ringing of the Pancake Bell, and the legend of the -knocker, have already been mentioned. The Curfew Bell still rings at -nine (the hour of compline), not at eight, as in other places, but -never on Saturday, because on the night of that day a man, who went -alone to ring, was spirited away, and never seen again. - -When, on May 29, the choristers go to the central tower, they sing -anthems on three sides only, and except the western side, because it was -from this point that the man leaped whose tombstone is seen below. It is -a mutilated effigy of Frosterly marble, and is said to represent Hob of -Pelaw, holding the purse of money for which he risked and lost his life, -and the fossils in the marble are said, by schoolboys, to be the coins -contained in it. Country people come, for some unknown reason, to draw -their foot over the purse. - -Curiously, the churchyard here is on the north side of the church. The -cloisters are ceiled with Irish oak, so that they never harbour dust or -cobwebs, and the saying goes that if the Protestants were not always -doing something to the cathedral the Catholics could take it away from -them! - -There is no church at Butterby, and you will often hear a man who is not -in the habit of attending Divine worship spoken of as a "Butterby -churchgoer." - -These old-world beliefs and stories are fast fading away before the -advance of the schoolmaster; but they linger yet in the minds of old -people, and it will be long before they are quite forgotten. - -[Illustration: THE PALACE GREEN, DURHAM.] - - - - -THE LEGENDS[6] OF DURHAM - -BY MISS FLORENCE N. COCKBURN - - -The northern counties are all rich in legendary history, and the county -of Durham has its full share. - -Curiously, instead of most of the legends being of an ecclesiastical -nature, as one would naturally expect in a county where the Church has -predominated for many centuries, the contrary is the case. All the -best-known legends are of deadly war waged with some uncouth or -venomous monster, in which, without exception, some local hero, -Jack-the-Giant-Killer-like, comes off victorious. - - -_The Dun Cow._ - -Visitors to Durham rarely leave without having the sculptured panel -representing the famous Dun Cow on the cathedral front pointed out to -them. - -The legend runs that the monks, having fled from Chester-le-Street and -rested with the body of the saint for some time at Ripon, were desirous -of returning to Chester. "Coming with him (St. Cuthbert) on the east -side of Durham to a place called Ward-lawe, they could not with all -their force remove his body from thence, which seemed to be fastened to -the ground, which strange and unexpected accident wrought great -admiration in the heart of the bishops, monks, and their associates, -and, ergo, they fasted and prayed three days with great reverence and -devotion, desiring to know by revelation what they should do with the -holy body of St. Cuthbert, which thing was granted unto them, and -therein they were directed to carry him to Dunholme (Durham). But being -distressed because they were ignorant where Dunholme was, see their good -fortune. As they were going a woman that lacked her cow did call aloud -to her companion to know if she did not see her, who answered with a -loud voice that her cow was in Dunholme, a happy and heavenly echo to -the distressed monks, who by that means were at the end of their -journey, where they should find a resting-place for the body of their -honoured saint." - -[Illustration: THE DUN COW.] - - -_The Brawn of Brancepeth._ - -At what time the brawn, or boar, ceased to exist as a wild animal in -Britain is uncertain, but it was at one time a common inhabitant of our -British forests, and protected by the law in the tenth and eleventh -centuries. - -The village of Brancepeth (a corruption of Brawn’s path) is said to have -derived its name from a formidable brawn of vast size, which made his -lair on Brandon Hill, and walked the forest in ancient times, and was a -terror to all the inhabitants from the Wear to the Gaunless. The -marshy, and then woody, vale extending from Croxdale to Ferry Wood was -one of the brawn’s favourite haunts. According to tradition, Hodge of -Ferry, after carefully marking the boar’s track near Cleves Cross, dug a -pitfall, slightly covered with boughs and turf, and then, toiling on his -victim by some bait to the treacherous spot, stood, armed with his good -sword, across the pitfall--“at once with hope and fear his heart -rebounds." - -At length the gallant brute came trotting on its onward path, and, -seeing the passage barred, rushed headlong on the vile pitfall to meet -its death. It is generally believed that this champion of Cleves sleeps -in Merrington churchyard, beneath a coffin-shaped stone, rudely -sculptured with the instruments of the victory--a sword and spade on -each side of a cross. - -Another stone, supposed to be the remnant of a cross, stands on the hill -near the farm of Cleves Cross, and is said to have probably been raised -on the same occasion. It was not unusual, in England or abroad, when a -man had slain a boar, wolf, or spotted pard, to bear the animal as an -ensign in his shield. We believe that the seal of Roger de Ferry still -remains in the treasury at Durham, exhibiting his old antagonist, a boar -passant. The seal of his daughter Maud, wife of Alan of Merrington, -shows the boar’s head erased. - - -_The Pollard Boar._ - -A family of the name of Pollard was seated at an early period in the -parish of Bishop Auckland; and one of their estates was called Pollard’s -Dene, and the ceremony of presenting a falchion to the Bishop soon after -his entrance into the See was performed by the possessors of Pollard’s -lands. - -The legend of how a Pollard gained this land runs as follows: - -The King offered to anyone who would bring the head of a wild boar, -which destroyed man and beast, to his palace "a princely guerdon," and -the Bishop of Durham, who passed the greater part of the year at -Auckland Castle, having also promised a large reward, a member of the -ancient family of Pollard determined to kill the brute, or die in the -attempt. So this courageous knight armed himself, mounted his trusty -steed, and rode to the lair of the boar, and noted its track. After -tying his horse to a tree, out of its regular course, he climbed a -beech-tree under which the monster often passed, and shook down a large -quantity of ripe beechmast. - -There he waited until the boar came, and had the satisfaction of seeing -it make a good meal. In time it showed signs of drowsiness, and -commenced moving from the place. Pollard, feeling that the time had come -for action, made an onslaught on the boar. After so hearty a meal, it -was not in a fighting humour, but nevertheless made a fierce resistance, -and taxed to the utmost the prowess of the knight. The encounter lasted -the greater part of the night, and the welcome rays of the sun burst -forth as he severed the head from the trunk of the boar. Having cut out -its tongue and placed it in his wallet, he decided to rest for a short -time under a tree; but a deep sleep overcame him, and led to a serious -disappointment, for when he awoke he discovered that the head had been -taken away. He was in great despair, for he had not the trophy to take -to the King to obtain the promised prize; so, mounting his horse, he -rode to the Bishop and told his tale, and, showing the tongue, his -lordship, who was about to dine, rejoiced to hear the good news, and, as -a reward, promised the knight as much land as he could ride round during -the hour of dinner. When he next came before the prelate, he startled -the latter by intimating that he had ridden round his castle, and -claimed it and all it contained as his meed. The Bishop was loath to -part with his stronghold, but was bound to admit the validity of the -claim, and eventually made a compromise by granting him an extensive -freehold estate known to this day as Pollard’s Land. These broad acres -were given with the condition attached that the possessor should meet -every Bishop of Durham on his first coming to Auckland, and present to -him a falchion with this speech: "My lord, I, in behalf of myself as -well as several others, possessors of the Pollard’s lands, do humbly -present your lordship with this falchion, at your first coming here, -wherewith, as the tradition goeth, he slew of old a mighty boar, which -did much harm to man and beast; and by performing this service we hold -our lands." - -Hutchinson, rather curiously, quotes a letter signed "R. Bowser," -commencing: "Sir, inclosed you have the speech my brother Pewterer gave -me out of Lord Bishop Cosin’s old Book," in which the boar is described -as "a venomous serpent." - -Dr. Longley, created Bishop of Durham in the year 1856, was the last -Bishop to whom the falchion was presented. - -The crest of the Pollard family is an arm holding a falchion. As to the -missing head, it is related that while Pollard slept the head of the -Northumbrian family of Mitford passed, saw what had occurred, seized the -head, and rode with all speed to the King, and gained the reward. The -champion Pollard also sought an interview with His Majesty, and giving -the facts, showed that the head presented had not a tongue; he was, -however, dismissed without any recompense, the King declining to -entertain a second claim. - -There is in the parish church of St. Andrew’s Auckland an old wooden -effigy representing a knight in a suit of chain armour, cross-legged, -with his feet resting on a boar, and it is generally believed that this -monument was erected in memory of our hero. - -In sequel it should perhaps be added that the Mitfords have for many -centuries borne as their crest two arms holding a sword pierced through -the head of a boar; and as a commentary, perhaps, upon the principle -that fortune - -[Illustration: HILTON CASTLE FROM THE NORTH.] - -helps those who help themselves, they flaunt the pious motto: - - GOD + CARYTHE + FOR + US. - - -_The Cau’d Lad of Hilton._ - -The grey old castle of Hilton has long had the reputation of being -haunted by a bar-guest, or local spirit, known as the "cau’d lad of -Hilton," or "cowed lad of Hilton." His history, however, seems to be -rather mixed, and to partake of the nature of the genuine ghost as well -as that of a brownie. This brownie was seldom seen, but often heard -engaged in playing pranks in the great hall, or in the kitchen after the -servants had retired for the night. If they left the kitchen orderly and -clean, the brownie, angered at having his work taken out of his hands, -would throw all the crockery and kitchen utensils about the room, so -that when the servants appeared in the morning a picture of confusion -met their eyes. Of course, as a rule, they found it worked best not to -attempt to leave things tidy, and then the brownie would exert himself -through the night, and all would be straight and clean for the maids -when they rose. - -The servants, however, engaged by the last Baron thought his pranks -rather wearisome, and determined to attempt his banishment by the usual -means employed in such cases--that is, by leaving for his express use -some article of clothing, or some toothsome delicacy to tempt his -palate. They resorted to a green cloak and hood as the best means of -driving him away. However, the brownie knew what they were after, and -many a time during the making of the cloak and hood could be heard -singing in the dead of night-- - - "Wae’s me, wae’s me! - The acorn is not yet - Grown upon the tree, - That’s to grow the wood, - That’s to make the cradle, - That’s to rock the bairn, - That’s to grow the man, - That’s to lay me." - -The green cloak and hood were finished at length; the servants laid them -down before the fire in the great kitchen, and watched at a prudent -distance. At midnight the "cau’d lad" glided in, surveyed the garments, -put them on, frisked about, and when the cock crew disappeared, saying-- - - "Here’s a cloak and there’s a hood: - The Cau’d Lad of Hilton will do no more good." - -And so disappeared for ever. - -The appearance of this brownie seems to have been confused with another -ghost. - -The apparition of a boy who was killed by one of the Barons often used -to be seen--sometimes, it is said, with his head under his arm. - -A Baron of Hilton, many years ago, ordered his horse to be got ready. He -was a passionate man, and a fearsome one to cross. The stable-boy -foolishly fell asleep. For awhile the lord waited for his horse, and -then, in a lively temper, went off to the stable and found the sleeping -boy. He struck the boy with a hay-fork and killed him there and then. -Horrified at what he had done, he covered the body with straw till -night, and then threw it into a pond at the south side of the park, -where, many years afterwards, the skeleton of a boy was discovered. So -runs the legend. - -It is interesting to note that a boy named Roger Skelton was killed by -Robert Hilton, a brother of the then Baron, in July, 1609.[7] - -There was a haunted room in the castle called the "cau’d lad’s room," -which was never used. Here, it is said, the spirit of the murdered boy -made its residence. For many years there has been no appearance of the -ghost, though there are persons who affirm that, if they have not -actually seen it, they have heard it about the castle. - - -_The Lambton Worm._ - -In Plantagenet days the Lord of Lambton had a godless son, who -desecrated the Sabbath by fishing in the Wear, and while so doing he -hooked a strange worm with nine breathing-holes on either side of its -throat. This queer find he threw into a well near by, since known as -"the Worm Well," and here the worm grew until it was too large for the -well. It then emerged, and betook itself by day to the river, where it -lay coiled round a rock in the middle of the stream, and by night to a -neighbouring hill, round whose base it would twine itself. Meanwhile it -continued to grow so fast that it soon could encircle the hill three -times. This hill, which is on the north side of the Wear, and about a -mile and a half from old Lambton Hall, is oval in shape and still called -the Worm Hill. In the meantime the heir of Lambton had turned over a new -leaf, and departed as a Crusader to the Holy Land. The worm still grew, -and came daily ravaging for food. The milk of nine cows hardly sufficed -it for a meal, and if this were not forthcoming it slayed both man and -beast. Many knights tried their prowess against the worm, but with no -avail, for no sooner was the worm cut in two than the pieces grew -together again. The poor Lord of Lambton was in sore trouble when, after -seven long years, the heir of Lambton returned home, a much sadder and -wiser man. Seeing the result of his former evil practices, he determined -to kill the enormous beast. Several attempts he made without success, -because the parts would come together whenever he cut it in two. At last -he consulted a witch of the neighbourhood, and she told him if he came -to the fight clothed in armour studded with razors, and stood in the -swift stream, he would conquer; but that he, like Jephthah, must kill -the first living creature that met him after the victory. So to meet -this latter difficulty he told his old father to listen, and when he -gained the victory he would blow three notes upon his bugle, then his -father was to loosen his favourite greyhound, which would come to the -bugle’s call. - -Having made all preparations, the heir started on his mission. Standing -in midstream, he waited the onset of the worm. It came, and seeing its -enemy, wound itself about him; but as it tightened its hold, the razors -cut it into many pieces, which, falling into the water, were swept away -by the current, and so were unable to grow together again. Thus the -victory was won, and the bugle sounded; but the old lord, overjoyed at -the thought of his son’s victory, forgot to let loose the hound, and ran -himself to meet the conqueror. Here now arose a difficulty; the son -would not be a parricide. He went again to the witch, and she told him -that the only alternative was the doom that none of his family should -die a peaceful death, to the seventh, or some say the ninth, generation. -Tradition sayeth that this alternative was accepted, and that no head of -the family died on his bed for several centuries after. - -There are two stone figures of some antiquity preserved at Lambton -Castle. One of these is apparently an effigy of our hero in the middle -of the fray, only the worm has ears, legs, and a pair of wings. The -other figure is a female one, and marked by no very characteristic -features. - - -_The Sockburn Worm._ - -The legend of the Sockburn worm is very similar to that of the Pollard -boar. It is recorded in an old manuscript that Sir John Conyers, knight, -slew a monstrous and poisonous wyvern, or worm, which had devoured many -people in fight, for the scent of the poison was so strong no person -could stand it. But before making this enterprise, - -[Illustration: LAMBTON CASTLE IN 1835.] - -having but one son, he went to the church of Sockburn in complete -armour, and offered up his only son to the Holy Ghost. The place where -this great serpent lay was called Graystane. The gray stone is still -pointed out in a field near the church. For more than six hundred years -the manor of Sockburn was held by the singular service of presenting a -falchion to the Bishop of Durham on his first entering the diocese, and -it was the duty of the Lord of the Manor of Sockburn, or his -representative, to meet His Grace at the middle of Sockburn Ford, or on -Croft Bridge, which spans the River Tees, and after hailing him Count -Palatine and Earl of Sadberge, to present him with a falchion, saying: -"My Lord Bishop, I here present you with the falchion wherewith the -champion Conyers slew the worm, dragon, or fiery flying serpent which -destroyed man, woman, and child, in memory of which the King then -reigning gave him the manor of Sockburn, to hold by this tenure, that -upon the first entrance of every Bishop into the county this falchion -should be presented." The Bishop, after receiving the weapon in his -hand, promptly and politely returned it, and at the same time wished the -Lord of Sockburn health and a long enjoyment of the manor. - -This ceremony was last performed in April, 1826, when the steward of Sir -Edward Blackett, the Lord of Sockburn Manor, met, on Croft Bridge, Dr. -Van Mildert, the last Prince-Bishop of Durham. The tenure is mentioned -in the inquisition post-mortem held on the death of Sir John Conyers in -the year 1396. The falchion was formerly kept at the manor-house of -Sockburn: the blade is broad, and 2 feet 5 inches long, and on the -pommel of the weapon, which is of bronze, are two shields; on one side -are the three lions of England, as borne by the Plantagenet monarchs -from John to Edward III., and the eagle displayed on the other side is -said to belong to Morcar, the Saxon Earl of Northumberland. This relic -was also represented on one of the stained-glass windows of Sockburn -Church. On a marble monument, placed to the memory of an old member of -the Conyers family, the serpent and falchion were sculptured. - - -_The Pickled Parson._ - -The present rectory house at Sedgefield, erected by the Rev. George, -Viscount Barrington, was preceded by a castellated edifice, which, after -serving the purpose of a rectory house for some years, was burnt down in -1792. During a lengthened period previous to the destruction of the old -house the inhabitants of Sedgefield appear to have been greatly -disturbed by the visits of an apparition known as the "Pickled Parson," -which, it was confidently declared, wandered in the neighbourhood of the -rector’s hall, "making night hideous." Whose wandering shade the ghost -was supposed to have been is explained as follows: A rector’s wife had -the ill-luck to lose her husband about a week before the farmer’s tithes -fell due. Prompted by avarice, she cunningly concealed his death by -salting the body of her departed spouse, and retaining it in a private -room. Her scheme succeeded, she received the emoluments of the living, -and the next day made the decease of the rector public. - - -_The Picktree Brag._ - -Picktree, near Chester-le-Street, is famous for two reasons--first, -because it was the home of the heroine of the popular song, "Ailsie -Marley," and, secondly, because it was the haunt of one of those -mischievous goblins known as the Picktree Brag. Sir Cuthbert Sharp gives -an account of the apparition, as told by an old woman of respectable -appearance, of about ninety years of age, living near the spot, probably -at Pelton. The old woman said: "I never saw the Brag distinctly, but I -frequently heard it. It sometimes appeared like a calf with a white -handkerchief about its neck, and a bushy tail. It came also like a -galloway, but more often like a coach-horse, and went trotting along the -lonnin, afore folks, settin’ up a great nicker and a whinney every now -and then; and it came frequently like a dickass, and it always stopped -at the pond at the four lonnin ends, and nickered and whinnied. My -brother saw it like four men holding up a white sheet. I saw then sure -that some near relation was going to die, which was true. My husband -once saw it in the image of a naked man without a head. I knew a man of -the name of Bewick that was so frightened that he hanged himself for -fear on’t. Whenever the midwife was sent for it always came up with her -in the shape of a galloway. Dr. Harrison wouldn’t believe in it, but he -met it one night as he was going home, and it ’maist killed him; but he -never would tell what happened, and didn’t like to talk about it, and -whenever the Brag was mentioned he sat tremblin’ and shakin’ by the -fireside. My husband had a white suit of clothes, and the first time he -ever put them on he met the Brag, and never had them on afterwards but -he met with some misfortune; and once when he met the Brag, and he had -his white suit on (being a bold man), and having been at a christening, -he was determined to get on the Brag’s back, but when he came to the -four lonnin ends the Brag joggled him so sore that he could hardly keep -his seat, and at last it threw him off into the middle of the pond, and -then ran away, setting up a great nicker and laugh, just for all the -world like a Christian. But this I know to be true of my own knowledge, -that when my father was dying the Brag was heard coming up the lonnin -like a coach and six, and it stood before the house, and the room -shaked, and it gave a terrible yell when my father died, and then it -went chatterin’ and gallopin’ down the lonnin as if yeben and yerth was -comin’ together." - -These northern ghosts or goblins have been very well described in the -following verse attributed to Ben Jonson: - - "Sometimes I meete them like a man, - Sometimes an ox, sometimes a hound, - And to a horse I turn me can, - To trip and trot about them round. - But if to ride - My backe they stride, - More swift than wind away I go; - O’er hedge and lands, - Through pools and ponds, - I whirrey laughing, ho, ho, ho!" - - - - -NAME-PLACES IN THE DURHAM DALES - -BY WILLIAM MORLEY EGGLESTONE - - -When Julius Cæsar conquered Britain, he found the island peopled by -Celts--a branch of the great family of nations called the Aryan, or -Indo-European, which spread over the world from Central Asia. The -Western branches, which rolled in successive waves over Europe, included -the Celts, who, according to the Greek traveller Pytheas, were in the -fourth century before the Christian era quite at home in Britain, for he -there saw growing in the fields corn which the farmers took in sheaves -to the barns, in which were threshing-floors. - -In Weardale, situated in the western and mountainous part of the county -of Durham, and surrounded by brown and heath-clad fells, the ancient -Briton lived in the limestone caves, and hunted in the oaken forests. In -the Wear Valley, near Hamsterley, and about seven miles east of -Stanhope, there is a remarkable relic of the ancient Britons. This -ancient fortification--like many other works constructed by the Britons -of old, such as the Dene Holes of Essex and the Cliff Castles--has its -name, and is called The Castles. The treasure of Heatheryburn Cave, at -Stanhope, consisted of bone knives and pins, boar tusks, bronze and jet -ornaments, spearheads and bronze celts, with prehistoric human skulls, -showing considerable activity of the natives who manufactured and formed -the various rude implements. Apart from these landmarks, there have come -down to us in names of places the Celtic roots the _ray_ and the _tay_, -which we find in Lang Tay, the name of a small but long tributary stream -of water in Burnhope; and in Reahope, a tributary hope to Stanhope, and -which empties its waters into Stanhope Burn, a tributary of the River -Wear. - -The Roman power seems to have been extended to Weardale, for the two -Roman altars found at Bolihope and Eastgate, and the denarii found at -Westgate, prove that this lead-mining dale was well known to those -ruling and wall-building people. - -Soon after the Romans left, the Anglo-Saxons--including the Jutes, the -Saxons, and the English--established themselves along the eastern coast -of Britain, and these tribes of the Teutonic family took a firm grasp of -the land, and planted the roots of the English nation. - -Though little more in the early Saxon period than a dense forest, in -which wild animals and ancient Britons found shelter, Weardale -ultimately became an Anglo-Saxon district, influenced by the blending of -the Scandinavian element in dialect and names of places, owing to its -proximity to the Danelagh on the south, and the Norwegian settlement in -Cumberland on the west. The whole of the Palatinate appears to have -remained Saxon through the Danish rule except the northern banks of the -Tees. We know little of Weardale at this period. Situated amidst -mountains, and lying next the Strathclyde, it was probably as much -Celtic as Saxon; but the division of counties, however, was made in 953 -by the Saxon Edred, or Eadred, and the Weardale people would know their -county, for, on the bleak and heather-clad fell of Burnhope, the limits -of the Palatinate is marked by a pile of stones, called "eade -stones"--evidently King Eadred’s stones--the boundary established by -that Saxon monarch. Weardale and Teesdale, however, under the power of -the Normans, were destined to be turned into desolate wastes; yet, as we -shall see, the Saxon names of places survived the desolation of fire and -sword. - -If we examine the names of places in the Bishopric of Durham a century -or so after the Danish rule had ceased and the Norman rule had been -established, we shall find a large percentage of Saxon suffixes. In the -Boldon Buke, A.D. 1183, there are some 151 names of manors, wards, -vills, etc., in which, with a few other names in charters of about the -same period, we have 45 endings, or suffixes, in 175 names of places. -The Anglo-Saxon test-word, _ton_, figures in no less than 34 of these -principal names of places: as Darlington, a settlement of the Deorlings; -Stockton, the stockaded town; Haughton, the haugh town; Morton, the moor -town; Norton, the north town; Essington, the home or settlement of the -Essings, as the Herrings gave a name to Herrington. Of the other Saxon -suffices we have: _ley_ 25, _burn_ 14, _don_ 8, _worth_ 6, _ford_ and -_ham_ 5 each; and the Celtic _hope_, common in the Anglo-Saxon North, -occurs 8 times. Thus, 8 endings take up 105 of the names of places in -Boldon Buke, the remaining 70 names having 37 endings. The Danish -test-words, _by_ and _thorpe_, only occur once each--Killerby and Thorp. -These names do not show that the Vikings made permanent settlements -north of the Tees. In Teesdale we find in Domesday Book, A.D. 1086, -Lontune, Mickleton, Lertinton, and Codrestune, having the Saxon ending -_tun_ or _ton_; but though the names of these places were English, the -places themselves were, or had been, belonging to a Dane, for they were -then in the hands of Bodin, and had formerly been Torfin’s--a person -named from the Scandinavian god Thunder, or Thor. Hundredestoft and -Rochebi have the Danish _toft_ and _by_, and, like many other names, -such as Thorsgill and Balders Dale, point to the influence and power of -the Scandinavians and their heathen worship in the neighbouring dale of -the Tees. - -In the five northern counties, Worsaae returns Danish-Norwegian -place-names in the following order: Westmorland 158, Cumberland 142, -Durham 23, Northumberland 22, and Yorkshire in its three Ridings 405. -The ending _by_ occurs 167 times in Yorkshire, and _thorpe_ 95 times; -whilst 7 of each are ascribed to Durham, and but 1 of the latter only to -Northumberland. Yorkshire, however, on a closer inquiry, shows over 250 -names of places containing the element _by_, and over 160 of that of -_thorpe_, the former predominating in the North and West, and the latter -in the East and West Ridings. Of the 83 names ending in the Norwegian -test-word _thwaite_, as mentioned by Worsaae, 80 occur in the northern -district, Yorkshire 9, Lancashire 14, Westmorland 14, and in Norwegian -Cumberland 43, whilst there are no _thwaites_ in Durham or -Northumberland. The evidence adduced from names of places thus goes to -prove that the Angles of Durham and Northumberland, though under the -yoke of the Danes during the ascendancy of the Scandinavian power, have, -from their first settlement, continued on their adopted soil through all -the vicissitudes incident to the descents of the Britons from the -western mountains, the inroads of the Picts and Scots, the ravages of -the Vikings, and the subduing marches of the powerful William of -Normandy. - -Northumbria, as of old, may be divided into two provinces in respect to -its place-names--Deira, the district of the Danes, and Bernicia, the -district of the Angles, the central boundary-line being the River Tees. -The Norse _beck_ and Anglo-Saxon _burn_ distinctively mark this line -between these districts in the upper reaches of the valleys of the Wear -and Tees. The mountain-range from Burnhope Seat, at the western confines -of Durham, eastward to Paw Law Pike, forms the south division between -the parishes of Stanhope in Weardale and Middleton in Teesdale. The -principal tributaries of the Tees, on the south of this ridge, are -_becks_, whilst those on the Wear side are _burns_. In Weardale, at the -north-western extremity, Scraith _Burn_ and Langtay _Burn_ contribute to -Burnhope _Burn_. On the Tees side, rising within half a mile or so of -the above burns, Ashgill _Beck_ contributes its waters to Harewood -_Beck_. Farther eastward we have Harthope _Burn_ on the Weardale side, -and Harthope _Beck_, which runs into Langdon _Beck_, on the Teesdale -side, both streams rising on Harthope Fell, and within a few yards of -each other. - -Continuing eastward, we find several _becks_ on the southern border of -the county of Durham. In 1672 a Teesdale stream was named Raygill Burn, -having the Celtic _ray_, the Norse _gill_, and the Saxon _burn_. In the -adjoining parish of Wolsingham, in the Wear valley, nearly all the -tributaries are named _becks_ in the Ordnance map, but these are, with -one or two exceptions, originally all _burns_. In an old document of -Queen Elizabeth’s time we find in this parish, Wascrow _Burn_, -Westerharehope _Burn_, Hadderly Clough _Burn_, Houselop _Burn_, Bradley -_Burn_, Collier _Beck_ and Ells _Beck_. There do not appear to be more -than two _becks_ in this parish, Ells Beck and Holbeck, the latter a -small runner near Holbeck House, the home of the Craggs family, one of -whom was the Right Hon. James Craggs, Secretary of State. - -In the Wolsingham names of streams that of Wascrow is generally now -called Waskerley; its real name, however, appears to be Westcrau, from -_crau_, a crag or rock, and _west_; or its adjectival component might be -_wæs_, water. Houselop is Ouselhope, the hope of the _Ousel_ or _Ouse_, -Welsh _wysg_, Erse _uisge_, water. Ouse is a common river name. - -Having so many Anglo-Saxon names of places in the eastern part of the -Bishopric of Durham, it is natural to suppose that the settled families -of the Angles would send offshoots along the banks of the Wear, up into -the dale where the river had its source. Wolsingham--the Saxon -metropolis of Weardale, for its ancient manor included the whole of the -Wear valley westward--is the _ham_ or home of the sons or descendants of -a family of Franks, represented in Kemble’s English settlement names in -Wælsingas, and in the German Walasingas, a family who probably settled -in the South of England and sent their sons to the North, for Durham, -according to Taylor, contained no original Anglo-Saxon settlements. - -East of Wolsingham but a few miles is Witton, the _ton_, or town of -witness, Anglo-Saxon _witena-gemot_. North of Weardale lie Hunstanworth -and Edmundbyres, so the dale of the Wear is surrounded by towns having -the Anglo-Saxon suffixes, _ton_, _ham_, and _worth_, except the Danish -_byre_ of St. Edmund. - -Along the banks of the Wear, three miles west of Wolsingham, is situated -the village of Frosterley. Here early settlers appear to have had an -abode on the banks of the river. The present name of the village is -evidently derived from the forest or foresters of the Bishops of Durham, -who resided here to manage the great forest westward, but the -Scandinavian personal name, Frosti, is worthy of consideration. There -appears, however, to have been a far earlier settlement here. A very -small enclosure near the river-side is named Bottlingham, but not a -vestige of a settlement remains, and the name of the small plot of -ground is all that is now left. Bolihope, a tributary valley to the -Wear, and which empties its burn into the river a hundred yards or two -below the place under consideration, was called, in Bishop Bec’s time, -Bothelinghopp. In these two names we have the _hope_ and the _ham_ of -some Anglo-Saxon settlers, named Pottel, which by the law of interchange -might become Bottel. Bodvulf, who died in 655, was canonized, having -founded the monastery of Ikano. This saint’s relics were dispersed, -hence several churches are dedicated to St. Botolph, and Bottlebridge is -St. Botolph’s bridge. The old chapel at Frosterley was, according to -tradition, dedicated to St. Botolph, and close to the chapel site there -is Bot’s Well, a name which would appear to confirm the local tradition -in respect to the dedication. - -Stanhope, too, with its Anglo-Saxon initial syllable _stan_, a stone, -and Celtic _hope_, had an older settlement in all probability than the -present town, which takes its name from the adjoining Hope, which is -full of rocks or stones. At the west end of Stanhope town there is a -small stream called Allerton Burn, which gathers its waters near -Allerton Riggs, lying north-west of Stanhope. The stream joins the Hope -Burn, near Stanhope Hall, but where is Allerton? which is, or was, the -_ton_ or town beside the allers or alders, or more probably the enclosed -place of some Saxon named Alder or Ealder, from Anglo-Saxon _ald_, old, -and _hari_, warrior. The site of this place was most likely near -Allerton Bridge at Stanhope Hall, and this old hall residence--the seat -of the Fetherston-halghs, from the days of King Stephen--probably -represents the spot which we are in search of; it occupies a tongue of -land between the confluence of the Allerton and Stanhope Burns. - -Seven hundred years ago, persons bearing the Saxon names of Osbert, -Ethelred, Meldred, Goda, Aldred, Collan, and others, held lands at -Stanhope, and did service under the Bishops of Durham. - -Considering the close proximity of the principal Danish settlement in -England, that of Yorkshire, it would not be surprising if an inquiry -into local names of places revealed the fact that the followers of -Odin’s prophetic raven had left a footprint of some value in the Durham -dales. The most remarkable, if not unique, footprint of the adventurous -Northmen is preserved in the word _thing_, pronounced _ting_, which in -names of parishes and places points out the localities where the -Vikings, in their days of rule, held their outdoor national assemblies, -and promulgated their national laws. - -When the daring Northmen touched the shores of England, subdued in the -year 867 Northumbria, and set up Inguar, the first Danish King, as -ruler, they brought with them, and implanted, their traditions and -customs. - -In Weardale there is a Thimbleby Hill, on the south side of the Wear, -opposite Stanhope, and if the Danes were in this dale for the purpose -of assembling a _thing_ or council, this hill is the one above all -others which they would have chosen. It has on the top a considerable -flat, and it overlooks Stanhope Town on the north, commands a most -excellent view down the valley eastward, and up the valley westward, -whilst to the south lies a rising heath-covered ridge. The position of -the hill would at once recommend itself to the Danes, who always took -care to have their national courts held in places which would be free -from surprise; and it is possible that Shield Ash represents the -shealings of ash bows, erected for the accommodation of those attending -the court. Stanhope is in Darlington _Wapentake_, which word is Danish, -and each wapentake had its court or _thing_. Presuming that the Danes -held a council at Stanhope, they do not appear to have established -themselves to any extent; but, as we find the Danish _toft_, as in Toft -Well, and a place in Bolihope, named in Hatfield’s Survey Turpenstanes, -the boundary stones of _Thorfinn_, a Danish personal name, and that in -A.D. 1183 persons holding the Scandinavian names of Russell, Thore, -Arkil, and a son of Turkill, held lands at Stanhope, it would not be a -matter of surprise if a Danish council did take place in Weardale, which -is situated so close to the Danish district, and which was under the -rule of the first Danish King in England. - -One of the most striking instances of the Norwegian element in Weardale, -is what was fifty or sixty years ago the "national" winter sport of the -dale. This was _skeeing_, the national sport of Norway. Within the -memory of a few of the oldest inhabitants no snowy winter passed in -Weardale without this sport being practised to its full extent. - -In the mountainous district of Weardale, one of the most important North -of England rivers is cradled, and into this isolated highland dale the -Celtic name of the Durham river has penetrated. Almost all the English -rivers have retained the names given to them by the Celts, and _avon_, -_dur_, _esk_, _rhe_, and _don_, are Celtic roots repeated, over and over -again, in names of streams, not only in England, but on the Continent. -In the name Nent Water, in Cumberland, we have the simple name "water," -and the Cymric _nant_, a hollow or valley formed by water--a common name -in Wales. Writers mention Nant Lle as+ the vale of Lle; Nant Gwyrfai, -the vale of fresh water; Nant Frangon, the beavers’ hollow or ravine; -and Pennant, the head of the valley. The little village Nenthead, on the -western slope of Killhope, is the head of the valley. From the root -_dwr_, water, and the frequently occurring Celtic _gwent_, an open -region, comes Derwent, the name of the stream on the north of Weardale, -and of various other rivers in England. The local pronunciation, -however, in the district of Derwent is _Darwen_, which suggests _dwr_ -and _gwen_, the clear water. - -The River Wear is formed by the joint streams of Killhope and Burnhope -Burns, which meet at Wearhead village. Its course through the dale is -rapid, receiving many tributaries from the hopes. On reaching Auckland -it takes a north-easterly course. "And now," says Camden, "the river, as -though it proposed to make an island, compasseth almost on every side -the chief city of this province standing on an hill, whence the Saxons -gave it the name _Dunholm_. For as you may gather out of Bede, they call -an hill _dun_, and a river island _holme_." The Wear, which enters the -sea at Sunderland, was called _Vedra_ by Ptolemy, _Wirus_ by Bede, and -in Bishop Pudsey’s time (1153-94) the name was written _Were_, the same -as we find in Hatfield, 1380, Holinshed 1577, and Camden 1604. The -latter form is the proper modern spelling up to about the last century, -when _Were_ became _Wear_, the present form of the name of St. -Cuthbert’s stream. Ferguson, on the authority of Pott, gives the -Sanscrit _ud_, _udon_, water, from which comes the German _wasser_, -English _water_, as the root of Ptolemy’s _Vedra_.[8] _Wirus_ suggests -the Celtic _gwyrhe_, rapid water. Perhaps _gwy_ or _wy_, water, and -_garw_ or _arw_, rough, form the roots. The former root enters into the -names of several rivers, as the Wye, Edwy, Elwy, and others. In all the -forms of spelling the river-name of Durham the letter "r" is -conspicuous. It is the principal one in _arw_, which enters into the -names of several streams--the Ayr, Are, Aire, Arre, being variations of -this widely diffused root. The Welsh _rhe_, rapid, with _gwy_, may show -equal claim to notice as first mentioned--namely, _gwyrhe_. Omitting the -initial _g_ in the first, and the middle letter in the second, root, we -have _wyre_. - -A _hope_ is a small opening running up to the mountain ridges as a -tributary to a main stream. From the burns again branch out _grains_, -which, fed by springs, issue from _brocs_. The _cleugh_, _gill_, and -_sike_, contribute their waters generally to the burns, whilst a _well_ -may come from a _dene_, and empty into the main stream. The western -dales of Durham are pre-eminently dales of _hopes_. This word is the -Celtic _hwpp_, a slope or hollow between hills--a little dale in which a -stream of water gathers. These openings at the sides of the dale may -very properly be termed places of refuge, places of shelter for animals, -such as the deer, and in these days we find sheep located in the various -_hopes_, where they have their _heft_--a locality to which they become -attached; Anglo-Saxon _hæft_, from the having a holding or place. The -Norse _hop_ is a place of shelter or refuge. An inquiry into the -Bishop’s possessions of game in Weardale, nearly three hundred years -ago, particularly mentioned forests, parks, _hopes_ and pastures. The -place-name _hope_ is common throughout the hilly parts of Durham, -Northumberland, Yorkshire, and Derbyshire. In the neighbouring parish of -Wolsingham there are Harehope, Ouselhope, and Thornhope; in Allendale -Swinhope, Sinderhope, Ellershope, and Mohope; the Boldon Buke records in -the Bishopric, Ayleshope, Rokehope, Cazhope, Refhope, Horsleyhope, -Histeshope, Baldingehope, Burnhop, and Roueleiehope; and in Teesdale we -have Egleshope and Hudeshope. In Weardale we have the Hope, sometimes -called Stanhope Hope, probably to distinguish it from the town of -Stanhope. - -In Weardale there are sixteen _hopes_, distinguished in name by some -characteristic feature, as represented in their respective initial -components. - -Burnhope and Killhope, with Wellhope, are the three vales which -contribute their streams to form the Wear at Wearhead. The initial -components _burn_, _kil_ and _wel_, are all Anglo-Saxon, meaning water, -and have been given according to the custom of the early settlers. From -the head of the River Wear, the hopes, striking into the hills -encircling the head of the dale, are those out of which come water. -_Burn_hope is the hope of the burn, Anglo-Saxon _burne_, a stream; -_Kill_hope is from Anglo-Saxon _keld_, a fountain; we have also -Icelandic _keld_, Danish _kilde_, Norse _kill_, a fountain or brook; -_Well_hope from Anglo-Saxon _wyl_, _wel_, a well or fountain--hence they -are all the hopes of water. _Kil_ is the Scotch and Irish word denoting -a church, and if the situation had been favourable, and had there been -any evidence of a St. Godric having been located here, as at Wolsingham, -we might have had the hope of the _kil_, kirk, or church, but in Camden -we find _Kelhop_ and _Welhop_. Leland, at an earlier date, gives -_Kelhope_ and _Welhop_, and Holinshed _Kellop_. Brocket says _keld_ is a -word used in Yorkshire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, for a well or -spring. Taylor gives _kell_ and _well_ as synonymous terms for a place -from whence water flows. We read in Simeon of Durham of the Scots, in -A.D. 1070, having marched through Cumberland and devastated Teesdale and -the parts bordering; then they came to the place called in English, -Hundredeskelde--that is, "the hundred springs." Barnard Castle -water-supply comes from a place called Spring Keld. - -One of the Bishopric knights at the Battle of Lewis was Sir Henry -Merley, of Herkeld, in Witton; and Besanskeldes is a Boldon Buke -place-name. We thus have, at the western confines of the county of -Durham, the hopes of water, and which pour forth their streams to form -the main river of the historic county of Durham. - -Ireshope, Middlehope, and Westernhope, derive their initial components -from their position. _Middle_hope occupies a central position in the -forest. The first tributary burn to the Wear after its formation is, of -course, the most western one, _Ire_shope, from Erse _iar_, the west. -Snowhope, sheltered under the southern hills, retains patches of its -winter covering long enough, no doubt, to have warranted its -name--_Snawhope_, as it was formerly written, Anglo-Saxon _snaw_, Danish -_snee_, German _schnee_, Belgic _sneeuw_--a name given to many mountains -subject to being covered in winter, as Snafell in Iceland, Sneekoppe in -Bohemia, Sneeuw Bergen at the Cape of Good Hope, Snee Hatten in Norway, -Snafell in the Isle of Man, and Snowdon in Wales. In respect to -Ireshope, there is the Anglo-Saxon _yrfe_, _erfe_, _irfe_, inheritance, -from the root _ar_; Old English _ear_, _earth_, as the _Ar_yan races -were the tillers of the ground. There is also a root _ar_ applied to -rivers, as the _Ayr_, _Are_, and _Aire_: Welsh _araf_, gentle; Gaelic -_ar_, slow; Celtic _arw_, violent--some of which might apply. - -Stanhope and Rookhope are characteristic names in a district of stone -and rock. In the Boldon Buke and Hatfield’s Survey we have Stanhope, -Rokhop, and in the times of Bishop Beck, Stanehop, and Stanhop. The -first components in these names are from Anglo-Saxon _stan_, German -_stein_, Icelandic _sten_, Danish _steen_, a stone; and Gaelic _roc_, a -mass of stone. The district is full of stones, as the many stone fences -which net the whole of the inlands and the higher lands to the moors -testify. From Boltsburn village the Rookhope stream runs over successive -edges of limestone and freestone, and culminates in a grand display by -leaping over several picturesque linns at Eastgate. - -[Illustration: THE KEPIER HOSPITAL.] - -Two of the place-names, Harthope and Swinhope, carry us back to the wild -beasts of the forest. One was the lodging-ground or resort of the hart -or stag, Anglo-Saxon _heort_; and the other gets its initial component -from Anglo-Saxon _swin_, _swyn_, a swine; Old German _suin_, traceable -back to the Sanskrit _su_. The boar tusks found in Heatheryburn Cave, -and the Roman altar at Stanhope Rectory, testify to Weardale being the -abode of boars. The local word _aswin_, obliquely, Welsh _asswyn_, does -not apply to this place-name. A far more probable etymology is the -Celtic _swyn_, holy. Charnock is of opinion that the several rivers -named "swine" or "swin" may be from this root. - -Bolihope, the name of a considerable subvalley on the south of -Frosterley and Stanhope, is interesting, if not so easily explained. The -name is evidently associated with the district of Frosterley, where the -stream from Bolihope enters the Wear. At this village we have as -place-names Bottlingham and Bot’s Well, and the ancient chapel is said -to have been dedicated to St. Botolph. Bishop Beck granted to Walter -Berington twenty-seven acres of land in Bothelinghopp. The initial -component would suggest the Anglo-Saxon _botel_, _botl_, _botles_, an -abode, mansion, or dwelling; also Norse _botl_, German _buttel_. Leo, -however, says that very few Anglo-Saxon names of places are united with -this word. Bolton was formerly written Bodeltune. This, however, does -not appear to be the etymon of the name in question, as _botel_ and -_ham_, both Saxon for a dwelling, would not be found in one name. A -large number of names of places have the Saxon patronymic _ing_, which -often forms the medial syllable, such as Wolsingham, Darlington, -Easington, Washington, Heighington, and, if the medial syllable of the -name under consideration be the Saxon patronymic, then it is an -Anglo-Saxon place-name--the home of the sons of some Saxon named Bottel. -Bot is a Scandinavian personal name, but we find the Saxon Byttingas and -Potingas, _Liber Vitæ_, Bota, and Frisian Botte. The personal name -Pottel--which by the law of interchange of initial letters might become -Bottel--would explain that the _hope_ and the _ham_ were belonging to -the son of some Saxon settler of this name, as elsewhere mentioned. - -Boltshope is a small offshoot from Rookhope. Bolt, as an iron-door bolt, -is from Anglo-Saxon and Danish _bolt_, German _bolgen_, from the root -_bole_, round as the bole of a tree. The Anglo-Saxon _bold_, _bolt_, -originally _búld_, _búlt_, means a house or dwelling, an abode; Danish -_bolig_; and we have mention made in Hatfield of Bold Shell in Rookhope. -Boltsburn is the village of the Rookhope Valley, and is situated at the -foot of Boltshopeburn. At the top of the hope is Bolts Law, which is -probably the place earliest named, and in all probability is from a -personal name. Bold Shield would not be from the Anglo-Saxon _bold_, an -abode, but is evidently Bold’s shield, the _shield_, or home, of Bold, -as the eminence might be the _law_ of Bold or Bolt. - -_Dene_ is from the Celto-Saxon _den_, a deep, wooded valley; Anglo-Saxon -_den_, _dene_, _denn_. The best specimen of this kind of valley in the -county of Durham is probably Castle Eden Dene, a wooded, narrow valley -near the sea. Its name is interesting, and contains the ancient and -modern spelling. Its earliest name was evidently Eden, from _ea_ or _e_, -water, and _den_, a wooded valley; and this becoming a proper name, a -second _den_ was added--namely, Eden Dene, which gives us -water-dene-dene. We have also in the north Hesleden, Deneholm, and -Hardwick Dene. - -_Burn_, _grain_, _broc_, are allied. The first of these may be said to -be as pure Weardale as Saxon. Whilst the Norse _beck_ crowds the banks -of Teesdale, it does not exist in Weardale. _Burn_ spreads from this -dale northward through Durham, Northumberland, and Scotland. _Beck_ is -as foreign to Weardale as the Danish test-word _by_ and the Norwegian -_thwaite_, though all the three names crowd around, close to the very -hills on the south and west of the dale of the Wear. Within the bounds -of Stanhope parish the Wear is fed by several tributary burns. These -streams receive or are formed at the head by _grains_, and the grains -are fed by springs from the _brocks_. _Brock_ is from Anglo-Saxon -_broc_, _brece_, to break forth--the place where the water first breaks -through the earth--hence _brook_, literally water running through the -earth. A _brock_ is a little hollow a few feet wide, formed by water -breaking through the ground, and washing out a miniature valley. The -moors of Weardale and surrounding district abound with these broken -places, which are mostly known to shepherds and game-shooters. They -exist on the top of the fells, where they are the only natural shelters. -Platey Brock, on Chapel Fell, receives its name from an exposed plate or -shale bed. To show how numerous these places are, I will mention that on -Burnhope Moor there are also Coldberry Brocks, Limestone Brocks, -Highfield Brocks, Wester Langtayhead Brocks, Todsyke Brocks, Lodgegill -Brocks, Scraith Head Brocks, Browngill Brock, Cocklake Brock, -Sally-Grain Brocks, Lang Brock. To the above may be added the -better-known names of Black Brocks, or Moss Brocks, in Burnhope, and -Welhope Brocks. - -_Grain_, Icelandic _grein_, is a division, a branch, as the grain of a -fork; Danish _green_, a branch, a bough. Generally the branches at the -head of a burn are distinguished by north and south, and east and west -grains; and sometimes by name, as Sally Grain in Burnhope, and Jopla -Grains in Bolihope. "East Graine under Craggs" is in Bolihope. At -Harthope Head there are the east and west grains, which meet and form -the burn. In addition to the sixteen hopes previously mentioned, from -twelve of which flow the principal tributary burns to the Wear, there -are some thirty secondary streams, named _burn_, Anglo-Saxon _burne_, a -_bourn_, stream, brook, river, and which are distinguished by the names -of the hope, or place, from which they flow, or from some other -characteristic feature or condition. - -Sowen Burn, near Stanhope, is a very characteristic specimen, the -adjectival component being the Old English _sounen_, sound, the noisy -burn, or, rather, the sounding burn. - -Fine Burn, in Bolihope, is so named owing to the stream being a line of -boundary. The words "fine," "confines," "finish," "finis," mark the end, -and the above stream is the boundary between the parishes of Stanhope -and Wolsingham. The Roman camp, _ad fines_ camps, is situated close to -the border-line between England and Scotland. - -In Rookhope Smails Burn implies the small burns--Anglo-Saxon _smala_, -small--two little runners rendered somewhat historic in the days of -Border broils, as we find in the old ballad of Rookhope Ryde. In the -same district we have Red Burn, and Over Red Burn. _Red_ is from -Anglo-Saxon _read_, _rud_; Danish _röd_, red, the red stream; or the -Celtic _rhyd_, a ford; whilst _over_ is from the Anglo-Saxon _ofer_, a -shore, or _ofer_, over, above or higher--hence High Redburn. - -Yeky Burn is from Anglo-Saxon _æc_, _eac_, oak, the stream of the oaks. -There are two Heathery Burns, one associated with the noted cave at -Stanhope. Old spelling hetherie, hetherye, hethery, from heath, -Anglo-Saxon _hæth_, Scotch heather. - -The name _well_ is given to a large number of tiny streams in Weardale. -Dutch _wellen_, Anglo-Saxon _wel_, a fountain of water, and in Saxon -names of places, _wel_, _wyl_, and _well_ often occur. - -Kelhope and Welhope are literally the hopes out of which water _wells_. -The source of the latter is named Wellheads. At the head of smaller -wells there are _springs_, places where water springs out--Anglo-Saxon -_springan_--hence we have such names as Spring Wells, Whitewell Spring, -White Wells, White Springs. - -Ludwell is the people’s well, Anglo-Saxon _leod_, people. This water -springs out of a cave in the great limestone, where, in olden times, the -Weardale folks might have congregated, for the Saxon prefix shows it to -have been the well of the people, like Ludlaw, the people’s hill, -suggesting the days of village communities, and the days of superstition -when wells were in many cases held sacred. These were generally iron -wells--locally, _haliwells_. There are many wells known as holywells in -this district, some of which are also termed _spa_-wells. This term is -from the bath town, Spa, in Belgium, derived from _espa_. - -Of other wells proper, we might mention Sunderland Well, Hunterley Well, -Huntshield Well, Black Dene Well, Carrbrow Well, Earnwell; Anglo-Saxon -_earn_, _ern_, an eagle--the eagle’s well. Several names of places in -England are from the eagle. Toft Well, east of Stanhope, is the well in -the toft or field, and the initial in Totley Well is probably from toft. -Bot’s Well, at Frosterley, is supposed to be that of St. Botolph, to -which saint, the old chapel, close by the well, was dedicated. Poppet -Well is a curious name, and is probably "coppet," from _cop_, a head. -The adjectival component in Duntert Well is evidently the same as in -Dunter Linn, at Eastgate. Boutes Well is Bolts Well, as in Boltsburn. -Berry Well is apparently the well of the mountain, Anglo-Saxon _beorg_, -_beorh_, a hill, a mountain. At Newhouse there is a Bank Spring, and at -Westgate a Spring Bank, indicating at each place a bank and a spring of -water. Cuthbert’s Spring, near Westgate, is in honour of the patron -saint of Durham, and it is no wonder that we find the name of St. -Cuthbert associated with names of places. On Harthope Moor, and close to -the road, is an excellent spring called Jenny’s Meggie, and at -Frosterley a spring is called Meggie. - -_Cleugh_, _gill_, and _sike_ are associated with water. We have in the -parish of Stanhope, in round numbers, 30 _cleughs_, 10 _gills_, and 70 -_sikes_. _Cleugh_ is from the Anglo-Saxon _clough_, a cleft down the -side of a hill; Danish _kloft_; Norwegian _kliufa_, to split--a narrow -ravine more like a cleft in the hill than a water-worn valley. Yearn -Cleugh, written _earne_ in 1666, is the eagle’s haunt, or that of the -falcon, the latter being once reared in Weardale for the purpose of the -Bishop’s hunt. - -In 1666 we find mention of Addercleugh, the adder being frequently found -in Weardale. Whick Cleugh--in 1595 written Weekerclough--is probably -from the Anglo-Saxon _wic_, a marsh, but more probably from _wice_, the -mountain ash, or rowan-tree, well known in the dale, and also known as -the wich-elm. - -_Gill_ is from the Norse _gil_, a mountain chasm, a glen or fissure in -the hillside. For this name we are indebted to the Norwegians, who -peopled the neighbouring county of Cumberland. The best-known places of -this class are Aller Gill, Lodge Gill, and Dry Gill, as being associated -with habitations and lead mines. The first is the _gill_ of the alders. -In Burnhope there is Lodge Gill, a well-known name owing to a once -famous lead-mine being there situated. The name very probably originated -from some forest animal lodging there, as we find Lodge Field, -Anglo-Saxon _logian_, to place, put, lodge--the field where probably -deer were lodged in the forest-hunting days of the princely Bishops of -Durham. - -In Burnhope, a lead-mine in 1666 was called Hesley Gill--the hazel gill. -In Witton Gill we may have a very important place-name, for here may be -the gill of the witness--the spot where the inhabitants met, similar to -the meetings held in primitive times at particular stones. Leo says: "By -the names Wittan-ig, Wittan-mor, Wittan-mær, and Readan-stan, we are -informed of those national and provincial meetings for self-government -which have always characterized our race." Anglo-Saxon _witan_, to know; -Icelandic _vita_; German _wissen_, to know. The _Witena gemot_ Bosworth -explains as "the assembly of the wise, the supreme council of the -nation." Edred the Saxon King held a witan at Ginge, in the parish of -West Hendred, Berks, and there is a Witan Dyke at Worthe in Hants, -whilst in our valley there is the village of Witton-le-Wear. Mirke Gill -in Bolihope is the dark gill from the Anglo-Saxon _myrc_, Icelandic -_myrk_, dark. It is curious to notice how the Danish and Saxon _cleugh_, -the Norwegian _gill_, and the Anglo-Saxon _burn_, are intermixed in -Rogerley-Gill-Burn, Willowgreen-Burn-Gill, and Stock-Gill-Cleugh; but -such are many names of places, for if the term _burn_ was not understood -by a Norwegian settler, he would add his own term, _gill_; if this was -not sufficiently clear to a Saxon, _burn_ would be added to convey his -own meaning of a mountain-stream, and in a similar manner the various -races of mankind have stratified and built one upon another the various -components of place-names which are ethnological and historical -landmarks too invaluable not to be closely investigated. - -_Sike_ or _syke_ is a very common local name. It is from Anglo-Saxon -_sic_, _sich_, Icelandic _sikje_, Norse _siki_. Sullivan says a _sike_ -is the drainage of a marsh, and that all sikes were once marshes. -Natural productions have given names to several sikes, as the marshy -hollows were the homes of trees, grasses, and animals; hence we have -Rowantree Sike, where there is an excellent ironstone mine; Saugh Sike, -two Aller Sikes, Rushy Sike, Bents Sike, Moss Sike, and Birk Sike. Where -we find trees we find birds, so we have Hawk Sike, Hawk Sikes near -Stanhope, and Snipe Sike. Todd Sike is where the fox haunted, and Goat -Sike wants no explanation. Chisholm Sike, Anglo-Saxon _ceosel_, _ceosl_, -gravel, sand, the sike by the gravelly or sandy holm. In Teesdale there -is a Whey Sike, in Burnhope a Whoe Sike, and in Ireshope a Hoe Sike. In -Middlehope there is Scar Sike, the sike of the rock. Anglo-Saxon _carr_, -Danish _skær_, Swedish _skar_, a projecting or prominent rock, a -cliff--as Scarborough, Scarthwaite, Scarcliff, and Scarsdale, written in -Doomsday Book, Scarnesdele. At Middleton on the Tees there is a place -called Skears, and _scarr_, _skarr_, _skire_, are forms found in -place-names. Whetstone Sike is where the whetstone sill is exposed. - -A _linn_ is a deep or still pool, from the Celtic _llyn_, water, a lake, -flood; Anglo-Saxon _hlynna_, a brook. In the North of England, however, -a _linn_ is understood to be a cascade or cataract, evidently owing to -the waterfall being a more attractive feature in a river scene than the -linn or pool, which is always found at the bottom of a fall. In Scotland -a _lin_, _lyn_, is described as a cataract, and in a secondary sense the -pool below. In Ireland _lin_ is a pool; and the Icelandic form of the -word is _lind_. The most attractive _linns_ in Weardale are Linnkirk, on -Shittlehope Burn, near Stanhope--a romantic spot where there is a tiny -waterfall and a cave close by in the great limestone; the Dunter Linn -and Holm Linn at Eastgate; and the Linny--a waterfall on the Harthope -Burn, near St. John’s Chapel. The Danish _dundre_ is to make a noise -like thunder, and the Scotch _dunder_ has the same meaning. The Saxon -Donar is the god of thunder, hence Dunter Linn is that which makes a -great noise. - -_Kern_ is from the Anglo-Saxon _cyrn_, _cyrin_, _cerene_; Danish -_kjerne_, a churn; Icelandic _kirna_; Scottish _kirn_. The primary -meaning appears to be to turn, the act of turning, allied to quern, the -ancient mills for grinding corn. _Kern-holes_, found in the bed of -rivers, are holes worn out by the churning motion of water mixed with -sand. On Chapel Fell there is a watery hole called Jackson’s Kern, owing -to one Jackson being accidentally drowned in it whilst coming from -Middleton; but this might be _cairn_, a heap of stones. In Burnhope -Burn, at Six-dargue, a deep hole in the stream is called Kern Pool. - -_Pool_, Anglo-Saxon _pol_, Welsh _pwll_, Icelandic _pollr_. There are in -the Wear and its tributaries a large number of pools which have names. -Holm Pool is the pool by the holm, and Wash Pool very probably was a -place where the good wives washed their linen in the days when -spinning, weaving, and various other methods of manufacturing household -requisites were in full operation. Winn Pool, from the Anglo-Saxon -_winn_, _gewin_, contest, struggle, to win--the pool where the meeting -of the waters cause a fight, and struggle, as it were, to _win_. - -The _eale_ and _ealand_ are our isle and island, and are the names given -in Weardale to alluvial land on the margins of the main river. In the -river and place-names Gret_a_, _Ea_, _Ea_mont, Batters-_ea_, -Aldern-_ey_, Pont-_eland_, _ea_ or _a_ represents water or a river. -Bishop Egelwin, 1069, "after having, with all his people, passed three -months and some days at _Ealande_, returned to the church of Durham," -according to the Saxon writers. In the Boldon Buke we find in a charter -of Bishop Flambard--“R. Biscop greteth well all his thanes and drenghs -of _Ealand_scire and Norhamscire." In Wolsingham parish we find in -Hatfield’s Survey, Papworth-ell, Small-eys, and in the same record -Catherine of the Ele is mentioned. The names of places containing the -Anglo-Saxon root _ea_, in the parish of Stanhope, are about a dozen. - -In 1380, according to Hatfield, the parson of Stanhope held the Frith, -and a place _parcellum del Ele_, containing one acre. In 1608, in a list -of lands held by the rector of Stanhope, we find "one close called ‘The -Parson Ele.’" A few hundreds of yards eastward, just below the Butts, we -have Bond Eale, a stretch of land subject to be flooded, and formerly -held by bond tenants, who had to perform services in connection with the -land, such as thatching and carrying the running gear for Stanhope -corn-mill. - -Thomas Morgan, by will dated 1641, left for charitable purposes amongst -other lands: "One parcel of arable ground in ye said Frosterley lying -and being at ye west end of ye same town in a place there called Hudse -Eale, and one acre and a rood of ground lying and being in ye said -Frosterley in a place called ye Mille Eale, and all other my lands and -tenements with ye said appurtenances in Frosterley aforesad--Barnes -Eale--excepted." - -A mile and a half west of Eastgate we have, between Hunterley Well and -Parkhouse Pasture, the interesting Cammock Eale, locally called "Cammo -Keel," for the derivation of which we have the adjectival component from -the Celtic _cam_, crooked, and the ending _og_, diminutive, Celtic -_ock_--hence the little crooked isle. - -_Holm_ is akin to ealand. Taylor says: "The suffix in the name Durham is -properly not the Saxon _ham_, but the Norse _holm_; and Dunelm--the -signature of the Bishop--reminds us also that the Celtic prefix is -_Dun_, a hill-fort, and not _Dur_, water. In the Saxon Chronicle the -name is correctly written Dunholm." _Holm_ is also Anglo-Saxon, and is -described by Bosworth as "a river island, a green plot of ground -environed with water--hence holmes." - -Holmside, in the county of Durham, and Midge Holm, Holmwath, and Yallow -Holm, are names of places by the river in Teesdale. - -By the Wear, at the west end of Rogerley Park, is situated Burry Holm. -In the year 1583 Thomas Blacket, Esq., of Woodcroft, demised to Peter -Maddison, gent., three closes of land being part of Woodcroft estate; -one close was on the west side of the low pasture, and another close of -meadow was called "Buiri Holme." It might be the holm of the burdock -(_Arctium Lappa_), or the berry holm from Anglo-Saxon _berie_, _berige_, -a berry, or the _bere_ holm or place where barley grew, Anglo-Saxon -_bere_, barley. Again, the spear plume-thistle (_Cnicus lanceolatus_), -called in Scotland the bur-thrissil, might flourish here, or the -burtree, the common elder (_Sambucus nigra_). - -The names _flask_, _swang_, _bog_, and _wass_, indicate wet land, and -are kindred terms to a certain extent. Those accustomed to travel on the -highlands of Weardale will be familiar with lands denominated _boggy_, -_swampy_, _swangy_, _marshy_. The term _wass_ may be considered -obsolete, and that of _flask_ nearly so. - -In Hatfield’s Survey there were in Bolihope lands called the Wasses and -Seggefeldland. _Wass_ is from the Anglo-Saxon _wæs_, water, and _segg_ -from the Anglo-Saxon _segg_, _seeg_, a reed or sedge, which commonly -grows on wet land. - -A pasture in Killhope, between Low Moss and the Rush, was some thirty -years ago called the Flask. Langtay Flask is in Burnhope, and a -lead-mine here was known by that name 200 years ago. In the bailiffs’ -roll under Queryndon, we find in Hatfield, lands called _fennes_, -_flasskes_, and a place called Atthillswang. In Quesshowe there was le -_Flaske_. At Framwelgate, Broom cum le _Flassh_, at Cotam les _flaskes_. - -_Bog_, Gaelic _bog_, Irish _bogach_, marsh, morass, quagmire, needs -little explanation. Riggy Bogs, Boghouse, White Bog, and Bog Hole, are -amongst names of places in the dales. - -_Den_, from the Celto-Saxon, is a deep wooded valley, and has already -been considered under valleys. The most important _denes_ are Easter -Black Dene and Wester Black Dene. - -Hot Hill is no doubt the wooded hill, but Hotts has another derivation, -and appears to be from _hut_, an abode or sheltered place. Another name, -_hurst_, pure German, a thick wood, is confined, as far as Weardale is -concerned, to Shield Hurst. - -The termination _shaw_, a thicket or small wood, is frequently met with -in place-names. The Danish _skov_ is a wood or forest, Icelandic -_skogr_; the Anglo-Saxon _scua_, _scuwa_ is a shade, the same as the -Swedish _skugga_. Anglo-Saxon _sceaga_ seems to mean shaggy wood. In the -Hatfield’s Survey, a place in Bolihope is called Watteshawe--a wet -wooded place. Near Allergill we have Birkshaw, the place shaded by -birch-trees. In Shittlehope there are two places on the expanding -moorlands called Bashaw and Mogshaw. The former was probably the badger -shaw or wood. In the latter we have an important root, the Erse _magh_, -Welsh _maes_, a plain. Taylor gives _magh_ as a Gadhelic test word, and -says that it is found in more than a hundred Irish names of places. - -The various place-names embracing _mea_, _may_, are from the same root, -and probably Migg Clos, held by the parson of Stanhope in 1380, is a -kindred name. A place on the south side of Bolihope is named -Harnshaw--written in 1614 _Hornyshawe_, and in 1666 _Harnshaw_--from -Anglo-Saxon _hyrne_, _hirne_, an angle or corner, a resemblance to a -horn--hence the _hyrne_ shaw would be the horn-shaped wood. Ramshaw, -particularly known for its well, is evidently the ram wood, Anglo-Saxon -_ram_, _ramm_, a ram; but some authorities derive _ram_ from _raven_. -These etymological conclusions give us a broad birch, a horn-shaped and -a wet wood, a wood on a plain, and a wood frequented by the ram and the -badger. - -_Wood_, Anglo-Saxon _wudu_, _wode_, woodland, enters into a few local -names, as Bradwode or Broadwood. - -In Rookhope there is a Foul Wood, a lead-mine so named over two hundred -years ago. Its name is evidently from the Anglo-Saxon _ful_, rotten, the -same as Foul Sike was the impure watercourse. In 1401 Roger Thornton -leased a lead-mine in Weardale at a place called Old Wode Clough. - -In _field_, _ley_, and _ridding_, we have indications of clearings in -the forest--places where cattle might feed. In Weardale there are some -thirty _leys_, numerous _fields_ but very few _riddings_. The latter -word is from Anglo-Saxon _hreddan_, to rid; _hredding_ a ridding; Danish -_rydde_, to clear, grub up; _rydning_, clearing. The Weardale people are -familiar with _rid-up_, a house; _rid-out_, a quarry; and similar terms. -It is different from the _riding_, from Anglo-Saxon _thri_, _thry_, -three; _thridda_, the third; _thrithing_, a third part of a province, as -in the Yorkshire Ridings. Five hundred years ago John Migg held at -Stanhope four acres of land in the _Ridding_, Robert Todd held _j -Ridding_ over an acre, and Alexander Brancepath held five acres and one -rod in the _Riddying_. In Queen Elizabeth’s time Michael Fetherstonhalgh -of Stanhope Hall purchased of Follinsby a parcel of ground called -Pathemairidding. In Path-mairidding we have the ridding on the plain -over which there was a path. - -_Ley_, _lea_, _lee_, _lay_, is an open place, a pasture or field where -cattle may lie; from the Anglo-Saxon _leah_, _leag_, _lege_, _lea_, -_leah_; from _licgan_, _liggan_, to lie. The _lea_ was an opening or -forest clearing where cattle might be depastured, but where a good deal -of woodland might exist. Gray, in the opening lines of his beautiful -"Elegy," sings-- - - "The lowing herd winds slowly o’er the _lea_." - -This terminal occurs in over twenty names of places in Boldon Buke. In -Weardale there are five names of places having this suffix which are -very important, as they give names to extensive stretches of land, and -very probably the adjectival components may all be derived from personal -names. These are Frosterley, Bishopley, Rogerley, Horsley, and -Brotherlee. - -On the hill north of Eastgate is situated Bewley, where once a cross -existed, and in former days a watch for invaders was kept here. This -place-name is probably more correctly Bewdley. In 1380 and 1590 it was -written _Bowdlye_, and may be derived from the Anglo-Saxon _bige_, -_biga_, _bigan_, a turning, corner, bending, angle, the ley, or field, -on the bend or bow of the hill, the bowed ley. - -Amongst the highest hills in Weardale are Fendrith Hill, Knoutberry -Hill, Noon Hill, St. Cuthbert’s Hill, and Horseshoe Hill. _Hill_, _hyl_, -_hyll_, is Anglo-Saxon, Norse _holl_, a name given to large and small -elevations. One of these hills is named after the patron saint of the -Bishopric of St. Cuthbert. Like Outberry Plain on the southern ridge, -Knoutberry Hill on the north, evidently derived its name from the -cloud-berry, _Rubus Chamæmorus_, which grows on the Weardale fells. In -1614, however, it was written Nookhill. Fendrith was written in 1539 -Fenrake. The word _rake_ is common in Weardale, and means to walk or -range, or the extent of the walk--hence a sheep-_rake_, Swedish _reka_, -to travel, journey. A _fen_ is land covered with mud, a morass--hence -the Fenrake was the district covered by a large morass. The hill known -as the Horseshoe might be so shaped, or the suffix may be _shaw_, a -wood--the wood of Horsa. - -Amongst hills of lesser elevations than the five abovementioned are -Billing Hills, where the Scots camped in 1327; Scaud Hill, in Burnhope, -from the Anglo-Saxon _sceawian_, _scewian_, to look; Batable Hill, -debatable land; Scrog Hill, Anglo-Saxon _scrob_, _scrobb_, a shrub, the -hill of shrubs; Dun Hill, Ancient British _dun_, a height or hill fort -(Gaelic _dun_, as Dun Fell, in Teesdale). Dod Hill and Dodder Hill are -mountains with rounded summits, as Dodd Fell, in the Lake District. -Cross Hill, in Stanhope, is where an ancient cross stood. We had a Paper -Hill and a Poperd Hill, which were the hills where the priests preached. -We have hills known or distinguished as _hard_, _long_, _windy_, -_slate_, _black_, _green_, _white_, _gold_, _quarrel_ (quarry), _hungry_ -(poor), _stony_, _great_, _low_, etc. Animals contribute their names, as -in Hog Hill, Lamb Hill, Plover Hill, Fairhills (Norse _faar_, sheep), -and Cowshill, the hill where cows congregated. - -_Law_, Anglo-Saxon _hlaw_, _hlæw_, rising ground, an elevation, a hill. -In the south it is _low_, as Ludlow, the people’s hill. Killhope Law is -2,206 feet above sea-level, Collier Law 1,692, Bolts Law 1,772, and Pow -Law and the Three Laws are the names of other hills in the district. - -_Seat_, Anglo-Saxon _set_, a sitting; _sæta_, settlers, inhabitants. The -root _sæte_, _set_, or _seta_, enters into several names of places in -England, some of which are county towns, as Dorset, Somerset; -Old Norse _setr_, a seat. The Norwegian _seter_ is a pasture or -mountain-side--Burnhope Seat, Dora’s Seat, and Raven’s Seat. One was the -settlement of a person named Raven, or Rafn; the other that of Dora, or -Dore. In 1614 we find Dorry Sette. Bishop’s Seat was the place where the -lords of the Bishopric settled when hunting in Weardale Forest. Another -name is Laverock Seat, evidently Leofric’s Seat, modernized into -Lark-seat. - -_Head_, Anglo-Saxon _head_, _heafod_, a head. In a district full of -undulating lands and small valleys there are several places deriving -their names from being the top or head, or finished part of something, -as Lanehead, Wearhead, Dalehead, Sidehead, Nag’s Head, Lamb’s Head, and -others. - -_Rig_, _rigg_, Anglo-Saxon _rig_, _hrycg_, and various other forms; -Danish _ryg_; Icelandic _hriggr_, a ridge, a back. Stangend Rigg is -2,075 feet above sea-level. - -_Plain_ and _pike_ are sufficiently expressive--the one a broad stretch -of land, and the other a peak or pointed eminence. Five Pikes are near -Paw Law Pike, a south-eastern boundary point on the hills. Ireshope -Plains is a euphonious name; and Bewdley Plain, Sedling Plain, Outberry -Plain, may be mentioned in the list. - -_Moor_, _fell_, _common_, are well-known terms. Anglo-Saxon _mor_ is -waste-land, a moor, a heath; Danish _mor_ is a moor, or morass; we have -Killhope, Burnhope, and Wellhope Moors. _Fell_ is Old Norse. All the -Weardale moorlands are called fells. Chapel Fell is 2,294 feet above -sea-level; A _common_ is a tract of unenclosed pasture or outside land -on which the tenantry of the inlands have a common right, or right of -common for their sheep. - -_Bank_, _band_, _brae_, and _brow_, are common in place-names, as Brook -Bank, Owsen Bands, Whitfield Brow, etc. _Batts_, low, flat ground near -water; Anglo-Saxon _bæth_, a bath, land subject to be soaked with water. -_Berry_, as Knoutberry Hill, Bleaberry, and Snodberry, are from the -Anglo-Saxon _beorg_, _beorh_, a hill. _Cut_, _cove_, as Cove’s Houses; -_crooks_, as Milncrook, Seggecrok, Crawcrook, are found. Also _end_, as -Hill End; and _edge_, as White Edge, Band Edge. _Flat_, _green_, and -_ground_, are also found in several place-names, as Barnflat, Willow -Green, and Trodden Ground. In the Boldon Buke we have Pelhou, Quesshow, -and Dunhow, from _haw_, Anglo-Saxon _hæge_, a hedge. - -_Haugh_ is a common name in Northumberland for low-lying grounds close -to rivers. It is frequently met with on the Tyne, but it is not so -common on the Wear. Worsaae returns _haugh_ in no other county than -Northumberland, to which he ascribes ten, the _haugh_, or _how_, being -given as the Scandinavian _haugh_, a hill; but the _haugh_ of the -Borderland is low-lying and sheltered meadow-land close to the winding -rivers. In 1380, at Stanhope, there was a Castle Hogh, known as the -Castle Haugh until within fifty years ago. There is a _haugh_ at Softly, -and a _haughing-gate_ at Eastgate. There are various _haughs_ in and -about Blanchland, and it might appear that Weardale, where it is very -rare, formed the southern boundary. But there are, however, three -_haughs_ in the West Riding. - -_Hooks_, _height_, _hole_, and _howl_. We have Fairy Holes--caves in the -limestone--Foxholes, Brockholes, and Catholes, as names of places; Hole -House, Clay Holes, and many others. Cuthbert Heights is from St. -Cuthbert. _Knot_, _loc_, _lake_, _land_, as the Knotts, the Locks, -Cocklake, and the Lands. _Mea_, Welsh _maes_, Erse _magh_--a plan--is -very common in the Durham dales. In Teesdale there is Flushy Mea, Sow -Mea; and, in Weardale, Broad Mea, Mea Sike, Pitty Mea, Rimea, and -others. _Mound_, moss, _nook_, _rake_, _pit_, and _pot_, occur in many -names. - -_Side_, a Saxon word, Icelandic _sida_, the edge, a hillside, enters -into a number of names of places, as Fell Side, Kirk Side, with -_siders_, as Cuthbert Siders; and also _sedeing_, a sideling or sloping. -_Slack_, _spot_, _wick_, _wham_, _clints_, _crag_, _carr_, _scar_, are -amongst other words forming place-names. - -Habitations and enclosures have their special names. - -When the Angles and Saxons arrived in our island they planted -settlements in fertile districts. By the margins of some meandering -river, which had already been named by the earlier Celtic race, the -Saxon families located themselves and established homes, many of which -are now large towns. The forest growth was cleared, and, with that love -of home characteristic of the Saxons, a portion of the cleared land was -enclosed, guarded, or protected, with the _tines_ of forest growth--the -tines or twigs of the wood; hence _tun_ occurs in 137 Anglo-Saxon names -of places in the 1,200 taken from Kemble’s Charters. This termination -became to mean, not the tines or twigs alone, nor yet the hedges of -which they were made, but the whole enclosure or estate was the _tun_ or -_ton_ of some person; or the _ton_ otherwise distinguished, as Stockton, -the stockaded town; Middleton, the middle town; Willington, the town of -the family of Willing--sons of Will. Other terminations indicate Saxon -homes, as _ham_, _worth_, _stoke_, _stow_, _fold_, _bury_. In the Boldon -Buke we find the Danish _toft_; and the universal description of small -holdings in Hatfield’s Survey is a _toft_ and a _croft_. We also find in -primitive days the villagers holding _dales_ of land--land divided into -long, narrow strips or divisions, each villager knowing his own strip. -When Weardale was more under cultivation, it was customary for the -inhabitants to _take in_ land from the moors; hence we find the -place-name _intake_, locally _intak_. And at a later period still, when -Acts of Parliament dealt with the division of moorlands, we got the name -_allotment_, abbreviated to _lotment_ and _lot_--the allotted land. - -_Acre_ is mentioned, as in Farnacres, in the Boldon Buke; and in later -surveys are Longacre and Etheredacres. _Barn_, _berry_, _beeld_, _byre_, -and _by_, _bower_, _cave_, _castle_, _chesters_, _close_, _croft_, -_dale_, and _darg_--as six darg, from Anglo-Saxon _dæg-weorc_, day’s -work. _Fold_, _farm_, _faw_, _frith_, _gate_, _garth_, _hot_, _ing_, -_ham_, _kirk_, _lodge_, _park_, _meadow_, _pry_, _shield_, _stead_, -_ton_, and _wall_, are common in the dales of the county of Durham. - -Amongst the names referring to buildings we have _cross_, as Killhope -Cross and Edmundbyres Cross. Stone crosses to guide the wayfarer were -once erected at these places. _Brig_ is from bridge, whether built of -stone or wood. _Currock_, a pile of stones erected on the moors or fells -as a landmark. _Peth_ and _lonnon_ and _way_ are also common names. And -all these have their adjectival component, as Lodge Field, Leases Park, -Mill Houses, Pry Hill, Old Faw, Shield Ash, Watch Currock, etc. - - - - -DURHAM CATHEDRAL - -BY THE REV. WILLIAM GREENWELL, M.A., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.S.A. - - -In the year 875 the great Scandinavian invasions were assuming large -proportions, and among other parts of England where the Danes landed and -harried the country was the coast of Northumbria. The monks fled from -Lindisfarne, which had been selected by Aidan principally because of its -resemblance to Iona. There was probably another reason for the choice: -its neighbourhood to the stronghold of Bamborough, the seat of the -Northumbrian Kings. Lindisfarne is very near to it, and naturally would -be under the protection of the King who lived there. - -Bamborough, however, proved no protection against the Danes, who came -oversea, and, landing on the coast, overran not only a great part of the -North of England, but also a considerable portion of the South of -Scotland. The monks, fearing lest they should be deprived of St. -Cuthbert’s body and their other treasures, and of their lives as well, -fled from Lindisfarne, carrying with them the body of the saint. Many -churches dedicated to St. Cuthbert in these parts probably mark the -spots where the monks in their journeying rested for a while. - -After wandering from 875 to 883, having remained for a short time at -Crayke, they settled at Chester-le-Street, which was given to them by -Guthred, a Danish King then reigning in Northumbria, and who had become -a Christian. - -There the body rested, and from it the Bernician See was ruled until the -removal of Bishop Aldhun and the congregation of St. Cuthbert (after a -short sojourn at Ripon) to Durham in 995. The difficulties of an -adequate defence probably proved to the monks that Chester-le-Street was -not a suitable place for their protection. The superior position of -Durham was no doubt the reason why it was selected for the site of the -see. This, then, was the commencement of the church and city of Durham. - -In 999 Bishop Aldhun, having commenced it three years before, completed -the building of a stone church, to which the body of St. Cuthbert was -transferred from a wooden building (_æcclesiola_, Symeon calls it), -where it had been at first placed. Of that church no part remains -visible to the eye, though there are no doubt thousands of the stones -belonging to it enclosed within the walls of the present church. - -The first building remained until after the Norman Conquest, a great -change having taken place in the meantime. The monks who, with the -Bishop, had originally constituted the congregation of St. Cuthbert, had -fallen from the rule which was first observed. There was in those days a -great tendency among the regular clergy in the Saxon Church to -degenerate into a kind of secular clergy. Symeon says those at Durham -were neither monks nor regular canons. At Durham, as at Hexham, some -members of the congregation were married and had families, and there was -springing up at Durham possibly, as there certainly was at Hexham, an -hereditary system, son succeeding father; and had the system gone on, -there would have arisen a sacerdotal caste, with all the evils attending -such a body. The Norman Conquest happily did away with that, as it did -with other abuses. It is probable that some remains connected with these -married members of the congregation were discovered in 1874, when the -foundations of the east end of the old chapter-house, which was so -ruthlessly destroyed in 1796, were laid bare. The graves of Bishops -Ranulph Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, and William de St. Barbara were met -with, each covered with a slab bearing his name--probably not quite -contemporary--and in them were found three episcopal rings of gold, set -with sapphires, and in the grave of Flambard, the head, made of iron, -plated with silver, and the iron ferrule of a pastoral staff, all of -which are now preserved in the cathedral library. Below the level of the -Bishops’ graves there were found a considerable number of skeletons of -men, women, and children, with one of which was deposited the iron head -of a spear, having the socket plated with gold. There can be little -doubt that these bodies belonged to the married portion of the -congregation and their families, who occupied the monastery at Durham -from the time of Aldhun to their being dispossessed by Bishop William of -St. Carileph. - -Allusion has already been made to the congregation of St. Cuthbert, but -of that body some further account must be given. The religious -community, the congregation of St. Cuthbert, which ultimately settled at -Durham, included the Bishop and the monks. The two formed one body, -whose interests were identical, and whose property was in common; and -the Bishop lived among the monks, over whom he ruled within the -community as he ruled over the diocese without, having no estates or -means of subsistence separate from the congregation of which he formed a -part. This unity between the Bishop and the monks was very similar to -that which prevailed amongst the early religious communities in Ireland -and Scotland. The system went on at Durham until the establishment of -the Benedictine Order there by Bishop William of St. Carileph, shortly -after the Norman Conquest. He was the second Bishop appointed by William -I., Walcher, the first Norman Bishop, having been killed, after a short -reign, by his own people at Gateshead, during a rebellion caused by the -oppression of his officials. William of St. Carileph, Abbot of St. -Vincent, became Bishop in 1081. Originally a secular priest, he -afterwards became a monk in the monastery of St. Calais, and such an -establishment as that he found at Durham must have been most distasteful -to him. A Benedictine monk himself, he naturally preferred being -surrounded by religious of his own Order, and not by those of whose -system he disapproved. In the time of Bishop Walcher the ancient -monasteries of Jarrow and Wearmouth were to a great extent, though -probably not altogether, deserted, and had been so since they were laid -waste by the Danes. When Bishop William determined upon establishing -Benedictine monks at Durham, he found these two monasteries already -existing at Jarrow and Wearmouth. Thinking there were not sufficient -provision for the maintenance of more than one monastery, he transferred -the monks from Jarrow and Wearmouth to Durham in 1083, and founded a -Benedictine house there. He became a party to the rebellion against -William Rufus in 1088, and was driven an exile for three years into -Normandy. It may well be that during his sojourn there he conceived the -design of replacing the old church by a new and more magnificent one. -Normandy at that time was full of large and noble churches, many lately -erected, and we can readily understand how the thought may have passed -across the mind of Carileph that, if he ever returned to Durham, he -would raise there a more glorious building, and one better adapted to -the wants of the new community than the church he had left behind him. -At all events, on his return, he determined to build a new church, and -may we not suppose that gratitude was among the motives which induced -him to do this? In the meanwhile, during the time of his exile, as we -learn from Symeon, the monks had built the refectory as, says he, it now -stands. Symeon was living in the early part of the twelfth century; he -therefore speaks with authority. The crypt under the refectory, which -still exists, cannot be later than Symeon’s time, and must therefore be -part of the refectory built during Carileph’s exile (1088-1091), and is -therefore in either case one of the earliest buildings at Durham in -connection with the monastery. - -[Illustration: - -_W LEIGHTON -1909_ - -THE CRYPT, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.] - -This very ancient structure lies on the south side of the cloister, and -to the west of a contemporary passage leading from it into the great -enclosure of the monastery, now called the college. The passage itself -has an arcade of low blind arches on either side, and openings, possibly -coeval with it, lead into the crypt under the refectory at one side, -and into a smaller one on the other. The refectory crypt is low, being -only seven and a half feet high, and commences at the east end with a -division, which has a plain, barrel-shaped vault. From this an arched -opening leads into the main area of the crypt. It is divided into three -aisles by two rows of short, massive square pillars, four in each row, -making five bays in the length. The pillars support a plain groined -vault without ribs or transverse arches. This space is again succeeded -towards the west by three divisions, the westernmost one being not so -long as the others, all the three having, like the first and easternmost -one, plain barrel vaults. Up to this point the whole crypt is of the -same early date, but beyond, to the west of what appears to be an -original wall, are some other structures, the cellar and pantry, of -later times. The older crypt has been lighted on the south side by at -least seven, or possibly more, small windows, all round-headed except -one, which is circular. - -To the east of the passage there is, as has already been stated, a -smaller crypt, which in general corresponds with the architectural -character of that under the refectory. It is now beneath the -entrance-hall of the deanery, once part of the Prior’s hall, and has -apparently been curtailed of some of its original length. - -Symeon, a monk of Durham, already mentioned, lived when a great part of -the work at the church was going on, and therefore his testimony is very -important. He wrote a history of the church of Durham, and his history -was continued after him by an anonymous writer. We next have a further -continuation by Geoffrey de Coldingham, Robert de Graystanes, and -William de Chambre, together with a number of indulgences from various -Bishops, given towards obtaining means for making additions to and -alterations in the building, and a few, but late, fabric rolls. Besides -these there is a most important document, "A Description or Brief -Declaration of all the Ancient Monuments, Rites, and Customs belonging -or being within the Monastical Church of Durham before the Suppression," -apparently written towards the end of the sixteenth century by someone -who had been an inmate of the monastery. These form the series of -historical evidences which now exist with regard to the dates of the -various parts of the church. - -In 1093, on August 11, the foundation-stones of the new church were -laid, the foundations themselves having been dug on the preceding July -29. Aldhun’s church, as Symeon tells us, had been previously destroyed. -There were then present Bishop William of St. Carileph; Turgot, Prior of -the monastery, afterwards Bishop at St. Andrews; and, as other writers -say, Malcolm, King of Scotland. The continuator of Symeon says that, on -the accession of Flambard, he found the church finished as far as the -nave. This statement does not, of course, imply that the whole of this -was the work of Carileph, for the monks after his death had carried on -the building of the church; but it appears on the whole probable that, -with the exception of the west side of the transepts and the vaulting of -the choir, all the church up to the point mentioned had been built -before the death of Carileph. - -It may be well to give here a general description of the Norman work, -taking the nave first, as being the most important feature in the whole -great scheme. The nave consists of three double compartments, a single -bay westward of these, and the western bay flanked by the towers. The -principal piers consist of triple shafts, placed on each face of a -central mass, square in plan; the shafts rest on massive bases of -cruciform plan, having a flat projecting band about the middle and a -narrow plinth at the bottom. A similar band and plinth are carried -beneath the wall-arcades of the nave and transepts and entirely round -the church on the outside. In the choir, however, except on the piers of -the tower arch, the bases are without a band, but have a plinth of -greater height, the responds on the aisle walls being similar. The -triple shafts next the nave or choir rise almost to the top of the -triforium, and support the great transverse arches of the vault. The -shafts next the aisles receive the diagonal and transverse ribs of the -aisle vault, and the shafts on the two remaining faces receive the -arches of the great arcade. The intermediate piers, in the centre of -each double compartment, are circular in plan, and stand on square -bases. The western pair of piers, at the corners of the towers, are -clustered like the other main piers, but have two additional shafts -(like the crossing piers), but these shafts on the side next the nave -receive the diagonal ribs of the vault, whereas the additional shafts on -the crossing piers support the outer order of the tower arches. - -The triforium is of eight bays, having a containing arch with two -sub-arches, the tympanum being solid. The clerestory has in each of its -eight bays a lofty and wide arch with a smaller and lower one on each -side, the central arch having a window fronting it. It has a wall -passage which connects it with the clerestories on the west side of the -transepts. The inner arcade in the eastern bays appears to be an -insertion, possibly made when the vault was put on the nave. The idea of -vaulting the nave was apparently abandoned, when the triforium stage was -reached, and it is probable that the arrangement of the nave clerestory -was at first not unlike that of the south transept. The resumption of -the vaulting idea thus necessitated an alteration in the design of the -clerestory. - -The nave is covered a double quadripartite vault over each double -compartment, without transverse ribs over the minor piers. The great -transverse arches, which spring from the major piers, are pointed. The -diagonal ribs, which rise from corbels inserted in the spandrils of the -triforium arches, are semicircular. They are all decorated with zigzag. - -The choir consists of two double compartments, and in its plan as a -whole agrees with that of the nave. There are, however, some differences -in the details. The piers of the great arcades, although similar in -motive to those of the nave, are much longer from east to west, and are, -in fact, more like sections of wall than piers. The clerestory is quite -unlike that of the nave, having a plain round-headed arch in each bay, -with a corresponding window, and is destitute of a wall passage. The -triforiums on both sides of the choir and on the east side of the -transepts are all very similar. They are lighted by windows, consisting -of two small round-headed openings, about twenty inches apart, under a -containing arch. The buttressing arches, which are opposite the piers, -are semicircular in form, and are contemporaneous with the arcades. Each -transept has two double bays, with an aisle on the east side. The vault -on the north transept has one transverse arch, which is semicircular, -the double bay to the north having a single quadripartite vault with -segmental diagonal ribs. All the ribs are moulded with a roll between -two hollows. The south transept has a similarly formed vault, but the -ribs are enriched with zigzag. The triforium and other upper parts of -the church are reached by staircases contained in two square internal -projections which are in the north-west and south-west angles of the -transept. The end walls of the transepts were probably lighted by three -tiers of windows; the lowest--which still remains--though blocked up, in -the south transept, is a single round-headed window. It is difficult to -say what was the arrangement above, but probably there were three -windows on the triforium level and one on that of the clerestory. -Passages crossed the ends at these levels, but none now remain in their -original state. - -The vaults of the aisles of the choir, transepts, and nave, are -quadripartite and are the same throughout, except that the diagonal ribs -of the nave aisles beyond the two eastern bays have zigzag upon them. - -The transverse ribs, which rise alike from both piers and columns, are -composed of a flat soffit, with a roll and shallow on each edge, the -diagonal ribs having a large roll between two hollows. The first -compartment of the nave arcade, which comprises two bays and the east -bay of the triforium arcade, correspond in their mouldings and other -features with those of the choir, whereas in the remainder of the nave, -although the elevation in its general design and principal features is -the same, the mouldings in some essential particulars, especially in the -use of the zigzag and the course of small sunk squares forming a quasi -hood-moulding round the arches of the great arcade, differ from those of -the choir. There is a difference also in the way in which the diagonal -ribs of the main vault was carried. In the choir the diagonal ribs of -the original Norman vault are supported on shafts, which still remain -and rise from the level of the triforium floor; on the east side of the -transept they are supported by similar shafts; in the nave they are -supported on brackets formed of two grotesque heads, inserted in the -spandrils between the containing arches of the triforium. The eastern -compartment of the nave arcade, with the triforium arch above it, which, -before the nave was completed, acted as an abutment to the tower arches -on the west side, as the similar and corresponding arches of the -transepts did on the north and south, must necessarily have been built -at the same time as the tower arches themselves, and, therefore, -naturally corresponds with them in the details. - -The spiral grooving on the piers, a rare feature in Norman work, is seen -in the choir and transepts, but not in the nave, where lozenge and -zigzag patterns and flutings are used instead. The spirals are contrary -to the ordinary direction of those on a screw. The eastern part of -Carileph’s church no longer exists, having been replaced by a very -beautiful eastern transept. Until some important excavations were made -in 1895, it was generally believed that the choir ended in an apsidal -termination, with an extension of the aisles forming an ambulatory -round it. The foundations of the east end of the aisles, as well as of -the choir, together with a small portion of the choir wall itself, were -then discovered. From what remained it was shown that Carileph’s choir -terminated in three apses, the central one, which extended 27 feet -beyond the others, being semicircular on the outside as well as within, -while those at the end of the aisles had been semicircular only on the -inside, being finished square externally. - -To Galfrid Rufus may be attributed the present great north and south -doorways of the nave, themselves, however, replacing earlier ones. The -sculpturing upon these doorways, and that upon the corbels which once -supported the ribs at the east end of the chapter-house, have apparently -been done by the same hand, and there is otherwise much in common -between the decoration of these doorways and that of the chapter-house -itself. - -Skilfully wrought and probably contemporary ironwork covers the south -door, still remaining in a very perfect state. - -On the north door there are sufficient indications to show what was the -pattern of the ironwork once there, and, indeed, with care and under a -favourable light, the very elaborate design may be made out. The -grotesque but effective sanctuary knocker of bronze, of the same date as -the door itself, if it does not invite the unfortunate offender to seek -for that protection now, happily, under more humane conditions, not -needed for his safety, will recall to memory how the Church in a ruder -age held out her saving hand, and interposed between the shedder of -blood, sometimes guiltless, and the avenger. - -The death of Bishop Carileph took place in 1096, and an interval of -three years elapsed before the election of Bishop Flambard, in 1099, who -is described as great by some, and infamous by other, writers. - -Ralph Flambard was William Rufus’s Chancellor, and whether he was -infamous or not, he was, anyhow, a remarkable man. We are told by the -continuator of Symeon, that he carried on the work of the nave up to the -roof--that is, that he completed the nave as far as the vault, including -the side aisles and their vaults, and probably at the same time building -that portion of the western towers which attains an equal elevation with -the walls of the nave. - -[Illustration: THE SANCTUARY KNOCKER, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.] - -Flambard probably began to build soon after he became Bishop, and though -that part of the church which is due to him might not have been finished -until near the time of his death, no material alteration seems to have -been made in the plan. With regard to the upper part of the western -towers, and the time when they were built, we are entirely left to the -evidence of the architecture itself, for nothing has been recorded which -has reference to their erection. The upper stages belong to a time when -the style called the Early English was being developed, and they may -have been constructed during the episcopate of Richard de Marisco -(1217-26), or even of Philip de Pictavia (1197-1208). Although the -towers have suffered much from weathering, and more from the paring -process, which, however, to some extent, has been remedied by the late -reparation, they are well designed and very effective additions to the -church as originally planned. In combination with the end of the nave -and the bold mouldings of Pudsey’s Galilee, they form a termination -which will not suffer even when compared with some of our finest west -fronts. The upper part of both is enriched by four arcades, two open and -two blank, of alternately round-headed and pointed arches. The towers -were, until the time of the Commonwealth, surmounted by spires of wood -covered with lead. At present they are finished by a parapet with -turrets, placed there at the beginning of the present century, which, -though faulty in detail, are, nevertheless, by no means unworthy of the -towers they crown, and add materially to the picturesque outline of the -cathedral when viewed from a distance. - -Bishop Cosin, in his articles of inquiry at his first visitation in -1662, asks: "What is become of the wood and lead of the two great -broaches that stood upon the square towers at the west end of the -church?" (_Miscellanea_, Surtees Society, vol. xxxvii., p. 257). This -inquiry was repeated in Cosin’s second visitation, July 17, 1665, and -the reply made in the presentment of the minor canons, etc., was as -follows: "And as for the lead and timber of the two great broaches at -the west end of the church, Mr. Gilbert Marshall can give the best -account how they were employed" (Hunter MSS., vol. xi., No. 94). To - -[Illustration: THE WESTERN TOWERS OF DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM THE WINDOW -OF THE MONKS’ LIBRARY. - -_From a Drawing by R. W. Billings._] - -this reply James Green, minor canon and sacrist, adds: "Mr. Gilbert -Marshall, Mr. Gilpin, and Mr. Anthony Smith, can best tell what became -of it" (Hunter MSS., vol. xi., No. 98). Bishop Cosin would remember them -as being on the towers when he was Prebendary before the time of the -Commonwealth. That they were never rebuilt is shown by Buck’s view, -published in 1732, where the towers are without spires. - -The most important, as it is not the least striking and beautiful, -object in the choir is the large and lofty throne, built by Bishop -Thomas de Hatfield (1345-81) during his lifetime, for his tomb beneath -and the throne above. It is a structure worthy of the Palatine See of -Durham and of the mighty Prince-Bishop who erected it. The alabaster -figure of the Bishop still remains, comparatively perfect, clothed in -richly decorated pontifical vestments, lying on an altar-tomb under a -canopy whose groining is finely ornamented with bosses of boldly -sculptured foliage. Upon the wall at each end of the arch, and opposite -to the head and feet of the Bishop, are two angels painted in fresco. -Those at the feet hold a blank shield, but at the other end the painting -is too much damaged to allow the object they hold to be made out. The -whole throne has once been richly gilded and coloured, and contains many -shields with the Bishop’s and other arms upon them. In the construction -of the upper portion of the throne it is not well fitted into the space -it occupies between the pillars, and some of its parts do not quite -correspond with each other. The impression given by these incongruities -is that Hatfield used some pieces of stonework already carved before he -planned the throne, and that it possibly was, like the Galilee, not -intended from the first to occupy the position in which it was -ultimately placed. - -Another beautiful piece of work of about the same period as the throne -is the screen behind the high-altar, commenced to be built in 1372 and -finished before 1380, when the altar was dedicated. It is commonly -called the Neville Screen, on account of a great part of the expense of -erecting it having been defrayed by John, Lord Neville, of Raby, though -Prior Fossor (1341-74), Prior Berrington (1374-91), and others, bore -some part of the cost. It was brought from London to Newcastle by sea, -and has always been spoken of as made of Caen stone, "French peere" as -it is called in the rites of Durham, being really Dorsetshire clunch. - -St. Cuthbert is said to have had a more than usual monastic dislike to -women--though some of his most intimate friends were women--and -therefore to have built the Lady Chapel at the east end of the choir, -the ordinary position, which was close to his shrine, would have been -most distasteful to him. No woman, indeed, was allowed to approach -farther eastward in the church than as far as a line of dark-coloured -Frosterley marble, forming a cross with two short limbs at the centre, -which stretches across the nave between the piers, just west of the -north and south doors. The Chapel of the Blessed Virgin,[9] commonly -called the Galilee, was therefore placed where we now see it. It rises -almost directly from the edge of the river-bank, and is built against -the west front of the church. It is of an oblong form, of five aisles -divided by four arcades, each of four bays, the aisles being all of the -same width. The middle aisle is higher than those adjoining, and these -again are higher than the extreme north and south ones. The arches, -richly decorated with zigzag, are supported upon columns, originally -composed of two slender shafts of Purbeck marble, but now of four -shafts, alternately of marble and sandstone, the latter, added by -Cardinal Langley when he repaired the Galilee in which he placed his -tomb in front of the altar, having capitals of plain volutes, which are -very characteristic of the Transitional period. The chapel was entered -from without through a doorway on the north side, which has been -restored, the old one, however, having been exactly copied to the -minutest parts. The doorway is deeply recessed, the wall being increased -in thickness on both sides in the manner usual at that time, and is a -fine example of the style in use when it was erected. Access to the -church from the Galilee was also obtained through the great west door, -which was probably not blocked up until Bishop Langley placed the altar -of the Blessed Virgin there, and made two doors, one at the north and -the other at the south end of the west wall. The chapel was at first -lighted by eight round-headed windows, placed high in the wall above the -arches of the outer arcade on the north and south sides, and no doubt -had other windows at the west end. The three windows in the north wall -and the four in the south, originally inserted about the close of the -thirteenth century, when the walls were raised in height, have all been -renewed, so far as the mullions and tracery are concerned. It is -probable that at the same time five similar windows were placed in the -west wall, of which only two are now left, the others having given place -to three fifteenth-century windows. At the time when these important -alterations were made, the original windows in the wall above the arches -were probably blocked up. Their outline, however, is still to be traced -quite distinctly. - -It must not be overlooked that the shrine containing the bones of the -Venerable Bede were ultimately placed in the Galilee in 1370, in front -of his altar. The bones are now placed in a plain tomb, having upon it -the well-known inscription, which, however, was only engraved on the -covering slab in 1830: - - HAC SUNT IN FOSSA BEDÆ VENERABILIS OSSA. - -There are some beautiful and well-preserved fresco paintings on the east -wall at its north end. They are contemporary with the building, and -comprise a King and Bishop, probably St. Oswald and St. Cuthbert, and -some tasteful decoration of conventional leaf forms, very -characteristic of the art of the period. The lower part of the back of -the recess, on the sides of which the figures occur, is filled with a -representation of hangings, the middle of which is now defaced, but -where, before the Dissolution, was a picture of our Lady with the dead -Christ. It is not impossible that the principal altar of the Blessed -Virgin originally stood there, and was transferred by Cardinal Langley -to the position it afterwards occupied when he probably built up the -great western doorway of the church. The site in question was, up to the -time of the Reformation, devoted to the altar of Our Lady of Pity, or -Piety, which may have been removed thither by Langley from the recess to -the north of it, which is surmounted by an arch with the dentel moulding -of a date apparently not later than the commencement of the thirteenth -century--a removal necessitated by his making there one of the two new -doorways into the Galilee. These paintings are not only of great -interest in themselves, but they possess a further one of being the only -specimens of fresco decoration in the cathedral which are now anything -more than mere fragments. The arches and capitals in the Galilee have -also been enriched by colour, among the designs being a zigzag and -spiral pattern. It does not appear that this kind of decoration had ever -been used to any great extent throughout the church, for very few -remains of it were discovered when the modern whitewash was lately -removed. - -In the aisle, however, of the north transept, where the altars of St. -Benedict and St. Gregory and that of St. Nicholas and St. Giles once -stood, there are some portions of the pictures which adorned the wall -behind them, including, in connection with St. Gregory’s altar, the -upper part of a figure vested with the pallium. There are also some -scanty remnants of colour left behind the altars of Our Lady of Houghall -and Our Lady of Bolton in the aisle of the south transept. The site of -the Neville Chantry in the south aisle of the nave still contains -sufficient remains of the delicate and tasteful pattern to enable one -to judge what the design has been, and slight traces of colour are to be -found upon the arches of the arcade behind the altars in the Chapel of -the Nine Altars. It is probable, indeed, that the walls behind all the -altars in the church have been more or less decorated with painting, -though certainly it had not been used generally on the church itself. - -The point of junction between the Norman choir and the -thirteenth-century work which connects it with the eastern transept may -be placed at the fourth pier from the eastern tower arch on each side. -The arch of the triforium next these piers comes close up to them, -whereas in the corresponding piers to the west there is a space between -the arch and the pier. The same feature is to be seen in the triforium -arch, which is next to the piers of the tower arch, which have five -shafts, the others having only three. It is very probable that the piers -at the entrance of the apse supported a larger transverse arch than the -others, corresponding in this to the great tower arch, and that the -supporting piers had, like those at the entrance of the choir, five -shafts. These piers, the body of which forms a part of Carileph’s Norman -work, untouched where they face into the aisles, have been encased on -the choir face with very rich and tasteful decoration of about the -middle of the thirteenth century. Above, upon each side of the choir, is -a figure of an angel under a canopy, that on the south side holding a -crown in the left hand, the other having lost the uplifted hand and what -it once held. They are the only two left out of a numerous host of -statues once decorating the church, and their beauty makes the -destruction which has befallen the others the more to be regretted. - -After the Nine Altars was finished and the connecting part between it -and the choir completed, a new vault was put on to the choir, and the -whole of the original Norman vault was taken down. The reason for this -was almost certainly an artistic one: the sumptuously decorated vault of -the Nine Altars being of a pointed form, while the original plain vault -of the choir was semicircular, it would have been very difficult, if not -impossible, when the great transverse arch was taken down, to bring -these two forms into harmonious combination. It was replaced by one -which to a great extent in its mouldings and decoration corresponds with -that of the Nine Altars. This vault is in five compartments, and has -four richly moulded transverse arches in addition to the eastern arch of -the crossing. These arches are supported alternately on the main -vaulting-shafts, which rise from the floor, and on triple shafts, which -rise from the level of the triforium floor, and originally received the -diagonal ribs of the Norman vault. The diagonal ribs spring from the -outer shafts of the three semi-shafts and from the corresponding outer -shafts next to the main vaulting-shafts. The vault is quadripartite, but -in the eastern bay is an additional rib on each side--a quasi ridge-rib, -which runs north and south from the spandrils between the clerestory -arches, and unites at the intersection of the diagonal ribs. The -additional rib on the north side springs from a draped male seated -figure, on each side of which is a lacertine creature with its back to -the figure, and its head turned so that the mouth touches the hair, -while the tail curves towards the feet; that on the south side springs -from an angel. The wall ribs spring from shafts of Frosterley marble, -resting on inserted corbels or on the capitals of the Norman -vaulting-shafts. In the eastern angle of the eastern bay the wall rib on -each side springs from the head of a small canopy, which contains a -sculptured figure; that on the north side a demibishop blessing; that on -the south the upper half of a male figure. - -Whatever difficulty, however, there may have been in collecting the -necessary funds for the erection of this noble addition to the church of -Bishop William of St. Carileph, first projected by Bishop Poore, no -expense or pains has been spared in its being carried out to perfection, -and the vault of the Nine Altars and choir, the last part of this great -work, with its enrichment of dog-tooth ornament of various and graceful -forms, and bosses of foliage and figure subjects, fitly completes the -building in a style no less beautiful and effective than the walls which -support it. It may be asserted without fear of contradiction that no -more effective or majestic vault crowns any church in our country. - -The cloister occupies a considerable space of ground left open at the -centre, where the lavatory was placed, and was enclosed on the north -side by the church, and on the other sides by those various structures -which had relation to the household economy of the monastery and to its -domestic and political life. Around it, in the dormitory and refectory, -the monks slept, lived, and ate. They studied in the library and in the -small wooden chambers--carells, as they were called--one of which was -placed in front of each compartment of the windows of the north alley, -which, like the east one, was glazed, the latter containing in its -windows the history of St. Cuthbert. In the west alley the novices had -their school, where they were taught by the master of the novices, "one -of the oldest monks that was learned," who had opposite to them "a -pretty seat of wainscot, adjoining to the south side of the treasury -door." - -In the treasury, situated at the north end of the crypt under the -dormitory, and which is still divided by its ancient iron grating, were -kept the title-deeds and other muniments of the church, in themselves no -small treasure. At the other end of the same crypt was the common house, -the only place where there was a fire for ordinary use, and which was -frequented by the monks as their room for converse and recreation, and -which had in connection with it a garden and a bowling alley. - -In the chapter-house on the east side the monks met the Prior between -five and six o’clock "every night there to remain in prayer and -devotion" during that time. Here also at other times they assembled in -chapter to regulate all matters connected with the life within the -body, and to order the many transactions which as a great corporation -the convent necessarily had with the world without. Close by, on the one -side of the chapter-house, out of which it opened, was the prison, where -for minor offences a monk was confined; and on the other side was the -passage through which his body was conveyed to his last home in the -cemetery beyond. - -Opening out of the dormitory to the east, at its south end, where a -modern doorway has replaced the earlier one, is a room which was called -by the monks "the loft," and which forms, in connection with the -refectory, the south side of the cloister. It was the place where the -monks, with the Subprior presiding, ordinarily dined, having beneath it -what was once the cellar of the convent. Beyond this, to the east, was -the refectory, or frater-house, standing above the early crypt which has -already been described, where the Prior and monks dined together on -March 20--St. Cuthbert’s Day. Whatever it was before then, though -possibly the original building still remained, in part at least, -unaltered, it was entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1662-84), who -made it into the library, transferring the books from the old library -adjoining to the chapter-house, and filling it with the handsome and -commodious oak cases which now furnish it. Near to it, on the -south-west, is the kitchen of the monastery, now attached to the -deanery, an octagonal building which well deserves examination. - -Returning to the cloister, there may still be seen at the centre of the -garth what is left above ground of the lavatory. It was originally an -octagonal structure, the upper part being occupied as a dovecote. The -basin was begun in 1432, and completed the next year. The marble -stones of the basin, which still exists, were brought from -Eggleston-on-the-Tees, of the Abbot of which monastery they were bought. -The basin is not _in situ_, but has at some time been removed from its -original situation, "over against the frater-house door," where the -foundations of a circular, or octagonal, building were discovered in -1903, and with them those of an earlier building, square in form, with -the substructure of an earlier basin. - -Before concluding the description of the church, it is necessary that a -few words should be said about the exterior. It has charms of its own -which, in spite of the disasters it has undergone in the shape of paring -down and refacing, still makes it one of our noblest churches. - -It must be admitted that, on account of the removal of some inches from -the surface of the stone,[10] and the consequent curtailment of -mouldings in their projections and hollows, there is a want of light and -shade which much detracts from its effect when seen near at hand. - -Indeed, the first impression made is perhaps one of disappointment. The -east end is especially flat and bald, and with its ill-designed modern -pinnacles forms but a poor clothing to the wondrous beauty which is to -be seen within the Nine Altars. But with all these drawbacks, when -viewed as a whole, and when distance has lent its compensating power, -the cathedral, its lofty central tower rising in harmonious combination -with the two western ones, stands sublime in its grand outline, and -fitly crowns the hill of Durham. - - - - -FINCHALE PRIORY - -BY J. TAVENOR-PERRY - - -After the Romans had completed the subjection of the Brigantes they -constructed a great military road through the centre of their country -from Eburicum, which became the capital of the province, to the Tweed -and the country beyond. This road intersected the county of Durham from -north to south, and much of its course can still be traced from its -point of entry at Pierce Bridge, through Vinovium or Binchester in -Auckland, Epiacum or Lanchester, and Vindomora or Ebchester where it -passes over the Derwent into Northumberland. From Binchester a branch -road led by way of Chester-le-Street to the Pons Ælii or Newcastle, -which was continued by another branch to Jarrow and South Shields -passing along the south bank of the Tyne. This great military road and -the branch to Newcastle were cut through the dense forest which then -covered the whole of Durham and which continued through Saxon times to -form an almost impassable boundary, save by these roads, between the -closely associated provinces of Deira and Bernicia. The considerable -remains of the Roman towns still standing after the conquest of -Northumbria by the Angles were no doubt occupied by them as settlements; -and we find it stated in the life of St. Cuthbert that when he was -crossing the wild country of Durham and was like to be starved he found -succour from someone residing in the buildings still remaining at -Chester-le-Street. Along the sides of the roads, between the towns, -would be the ruins, not then entirely destroyed, of villas and other -buildings which may have formed places for rest or refuge to those who -like the saint traversed these dangerous forest paths, from which may -have been derived the names of localities still in use although the -ruins after which they were called have long since been forgotten. The -monks who were conveying the body of St. Cuthbert to its final -resting-place were directed to take it to Dunholm, and an accident -revealed to them the obscure place which then bore that name; and when -St. Godric was directed to repair to Finchale and there build himself a -hermitage, he only discovered there was a place so called by a chance -conversation he had with a monk at Durham. - -The name of Finchale must have been well known in the ninth century if -we accept the common and reasonable belief that it was a place of -meeting of two or three important councils concerned with the affairs of -Northumbria. Its position in reference to the great road passing to the -South, its accessibility to the neighbouring town of Chester-le-Street -only three or four miles distant, and its comparative seclusion in the -great surrounding forest made it particularly suitable for such -meetings, which were held, as Bishop Stubbs says in his _Constitutional -History_, generally on the confines of states whence those assembled -might easily retire at nightfall to safer places. The councils held in -Northumbria during the latter part of the eighth century met at a time -when the country was not only disturbed by internal troubles, but -already threatened by the Danish pirates along the coast; and the forest -depths of Durham were safer for such meetings than the more open lands -of Northumberland or Yorkshire. The affix of "hale," the Saxon "hal," -signifies the existence of a hall or some building, perhaps the remains -of a Roman villa, which would have served as a temporary shelter for the -members of a council, of which all traces have long since disappeared; -but, taking all the circumstances together, we may fairly assume that -Finchale was the place in which these Northumbrian councils met, and the -name still lingered in the locality when St. Godric established himself -within its glades on the banks of the rushing Wear. - -This Godric, whose name is indissolubly associated with Finchale Priory, -although he was in no sense the founder of it, was as selfish and dirty -an old anchorite as ever attained the brevet rank of sainthood. Born -about 1065, the first thirty years of his life were spent as a pedlar -and sailor, during which he travelled far and wide, and met with many -adventures; and the remainder he spent in pilgrimages or a hermit-life -of penance and prayer. The _Dictionary of National Biography_ gives a -very complete history of him, compiled from all available sources, the -most important being the MS. life by his contemporary Nicholas of -Durham. While he was leading the roving life of a pedlar he was nearly -drowned in trying to catch a porpoise, and afterwards made a pilgrimage -to Rome, presumably in thankfulness for his rescue. But the time was -unfortunate, for it appears to have been about 1086, when Gregory VII., -Hildebrand, had just died in exile, when the Anti-Pope Clement III. was -in possession of the Vatican, while the newly elected Pope Victor III. -was afraid to enter Rome, which then lay sunk in the most frightful -anarchy. The spectacle he beheld could scarcely then have induced him to -accept a religious vocation; and we find that for sixteen years -afterwards he led a seafaring life, trading between England, Scotland, -Flanders and Denmark, presently going so far afield as the Holy Land, -where the Chronicler’s description of him as "Gudericus pirata de regno -Angliae" sufficiently indicates the character of his occupation. -Returning thence, he paid a visit to the shrine of St. James of -Compostella; and when he reached home he accepted a menial position in -the house of a countryman, which suggests that he had not made much -money by his ventures. But with a restless spirit on him he went two -more pilgrimages to Rome, and the second time he took his mother with -him carrying her, it is said, on his shoulders where the way was -difficult. It was on this journey that he was accompanied by a lady of -wondrous beauty, whom he met on his way in London, who left him there -again on his return, and who nightly washed his feet; a story which -perhaps grew out of the custom of noble ladies, and which became more -common later on, of washing the feet of pilgrims in penance for some -special sin, in the manner described by Charles Reade in _The Cloister -and the Hearth_. On his return, somewhere about 1104, he settled for a -time at Carlisle, and then went to share his cell with a hermit named -Aelrice, by Wolsingham, and perhaps learn the lessons which were to -guide him in his future life. After a stay here of only seventeen months -the hermit died, and directed, he believed, by St. Cuthbert, Godric went -again on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, after which he was instructed to -return and take up his residence at Finchale. Not knowing the locality -by name he returned to Durham where he resided for some time until a -chance conversation disclosed the whereabouts of the place. - -When he at length retired to Finchale he seems to have found there the -remains of some ancient building, perhaps of a Roman villa, which may -have given its name to the place, and which may not only have formed a -sufficient residence for the hermit but for the other members of his -family who came to reside with him. The site of this dwelling was a -little nearer to Durham than is the present Priory, and the lands around -were a hunting-ground (the villa may have been a hunting-lodge) -belonging to Bishop Ralph Flambard who gave Godric permission to settle -here, so that possession must have been taken before 1128, the date of -the Bishop’s death. Adjoining to this residence he seems to have built -a wooden chapel which was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and about -twenty years after he built another of stone which was consecrated by -Bishop William de St. Barbara, dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre and St. -John Baptist, and regularly served by a priest from Durham. As well as -the many self-imposed mortifications he endured, he was much troubled by -the serpents with which the place abounded, but which, at his command, -departed; but if we may believe the equally veracious story of "the -loathly worm of Lambton," a witch as well as a saint had a hand in that -achievement. - -Godric, who was bedridden with rheumatism, the result of his senile -excesses, for eight years before his death, died in 1170, during the -episcopacy of Bishop Hugh de Puiset, or Pudsey, who appears to have -personally interested himself in the Finchale oratory; and under his -directions two monks from the Durham convent, named Henry and Reginald, -took up their residence in the place. In 1180 Pudsey confirmed the -priory of Durham in their possession of Finchale and added lands and -other benefactions to those already granted by Flambard; and thus no -doubt the attention of his son Henry was drawn to the place. - -Henry de Pudsey, who may be regarded as the founder of Finchale, was -Bishop Pudsey’s eldest illegitimate son, and must have been born some -long time before his father succeeded to the see as the Bishop had other -children younger than Henry. His mother was Adelaide de Percy from whom -he appears to have inherited a good deal of land in Craven, as well as -the manors of Wingate and Haswell, with which he afterwards endowed -Finchale. At some period not long before the death of Godric he seems to -have been engaged in founding a small establishment for Austen Canons at -a place called Bakstanford not far from Neville’s Cross to which the -monks of Durham seem to have objected as an intrusion of a foreign order -within their immediate sphere of influence. Whether it was in -consequence of their protests or at the wish of his father is uncertain, -but he suspended his operations and transferred his endowments to -Finchale; and there he erected new monastic buildings for the -accommodation of a colony of Benedictines from Durham who, under Thomas -the Sacrist as Prior, took possession of the convent in 1196, a year -after the death of Bishop Pudsey. It was apparently the intention also -of Henry to rebuild Godric’s church in a more suitable manner, but in -1198 he became involved in some political troubles and went crusading in -1201 from which he did not return until 1212; and he left the rebuilding -of the church to be carried out by the community. - -[Illustration: PISCINA IN CHOIR.] - -The building of a new church seems to have been taken in hand in 1242, a -year memorable in the annals of Durham Cathedral as the one which saw -the beginning of the great eastern transept of the "Nine Altars," under -the auspices of Prior Thomas of Melsamby, of whom Canon Greenwell says: -"He was one of the greatest men who have sat in the prior’s chair at -Durham." The subservient position which Finchale held to the Durham -convent necessitated the assent of its Prior to so important an -undertaking; and it is not improbable that he may have pointed out the -necessity of the work and that his architect, Richard de Farnham, was -responsible for the design. Although of but modest dimensions for a -priory church, and but little longer and wider than the chapel which the -Brus family had recently built near by at Hartlepool, it was still on -too ambitious a scale for the limited resources of the convent; and the -work dragged on for a number of years, and was never completed in its -entirety. Its chief internal dimensions were--total length of nave and -choir 194 feet and of the transepts 99 feet; the widths of the nave and -choir were 23 feet and of the transepts 21 feet, while the width across -the unbuilt aisles would have been 52 feet. But the aisles would seem -never to have been finished, and though Mackensie Walcot pathetically -says that "it was the hand of the monk which pulled down the chapel of -the transept and the aisles of the choir and nave" it seems more than -likely that they were never begun, and that the idea was abandoned for -lack of funds soon after the nave and choir arcades had been completed. -It is probable that the choir only was roofed in in a temporary manner, -and that the nave and perhaps the transepts as well were not enclosed -until the works were seriously resumed in the next century. The wars -with Scotland caused much trouble within the county of Durham, and -doubtless affected the revenues of the priory, although there is nothing -to show that the monks were disturbed in any way by the invaders; but -twice the Scotch armies appeared upon the Wear, first under the Douglas -just before the treaty of Northampton made in 1328, and again in 1346 -when they were defeated at the Battle of Neville’s Cross within sight of -the cathedral. - -All works were suspended at Durham as well as at Finchale for the same -reasons, but with the return of peace and under the energetic sway of -Prior John Fossor they were resumed; and no doubt under his direct - -[Illustration: CHOIR.] - -influence and perhaps with his assistance the completion of the church -at Finchale was undertaken. The account rolls of the priory from 1348 -begin to mention large quantities of material bought for the works and -money expended upon labour until 1372 when we may consider the fabric of -the church was finished. Instead of building the aisles as originally -intended, they filled up the moulded arches of the arcades with walling -in which they inserted traceried windows; and they seemed to have roofed -in the buildings at a level but little above the top of the arches -without any clerestory but sufficiently high to clear the great arches -of the crossing. Whether the crossing was vaulted is not quite certain, -but some stones found among the ruins seem to indicate remains of groin -ribs, and it was raised as a low tower, and covered in all probability -with a squat, leaded spire such as those which once stood on the western -towers of the cathedral. The windows which had their heads filled in -with reticulated tracery were, with those of Easington Church and those -inserted in the cathedral by Prior Fossor, among the most important -Decorated work in the county. The east end of the choir had originally -three lancet windows, but either at this time or later a large traceried -window was inserted in their place, the cost of reglazing which appears -in the accounts for 1488. A reredos to the high-altar was erected about -1376 during the period when the great Neville screen was in course of -construction in the cathedral. The exact position it occupied in the -choir is not now evident, as the position of the original double piscina -(see p. 135) and the sedilia left but little room for such an erection, -and it seems to have involved some alteration in the arrangements of the -east end. It is clear from existing remains that it was originally -intended to build a chapel on the east side of the north transept and -possibly a corresponding one to the south transept, the former with an -altar dedicated to St. Godric and the latter to the Blessed Virgin, but -these chapels were abandoned at the completion; the whole south transept -became the Lady Chapel, and it has been suggested that the shrine of St. -Godric was removed to the extreme east end of the choir, from which it -was cut off by the new reredos, in which case another piscina which has -disappeared must have been made for the service of the high-altar. The -ancient sedilia of which there were three were cut into and reduced to -two when the large traceried window was inserted in the south wall of -the choir, and our illustration (see p. 137) shows not only this -alteration but what is supposed to have been the base of the reredos. - -[Illustration: THE CHURCH FROM THE NORTH-WEST.] - -[Illustration: PLAN OF THE RUINS OF FINCHALE PRIORY.] - -The arches, which had been left open on the eastern face of the -transepts, were filled in in the same manner as the nave arcades but -with two-light windows in the walling except in the case of the south -transept where there is a five-light window, with the heads uncusped, -beneath which was the altar of the Blessed Virgin. In 1469 sixty -shillings was paid for glazing this window. The west walls of the -transepts contain the only original windows left complete, the south -transept having a short lancet which looked over the cloister roof, and -the north transept has two narrow and lofty lancets. The lancets at the -north end of the transept were doubtless removed for a traceried window -as in the choir; but the triplets of the west front were left -undisturbed, and their remains and the beautifully simple west front, -together with the lancets of the transepts, are shown in our -illustration (see p. 139). - -[Illustration: FRONT OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE.] - -[Illustration: CRYPT UNDER REFECTORY.] - -The conventual buildings were all placed on the south side of the church -and their arrangement, so far as they exist at the present time, is -shown on the general plan (see p. 140). They were to a great extent -erected at the same time as the church, that is during the thirteenth -century, but were far from completed, and the account rolls show that -they were not finished before the latter half - -[Illustration: THE PRIOR’S LODGING.] - -of the fifteenth century; but it is quite possible that some of the -buildings erected by Henry de Pudsey continued in use until the new ones -were ready for occupation. The chapter-house adjoins the south transept -and still retains its front over which one of the dormitory windows can -yet be seen (see p. 141). To the south of the cloister are considerable -remains of the refectory, raised, as at Durham, above a vaulted basement -(see p. 142); it was lighted by a fine range of lancet windows on either -side, and had a fireplace at the west end, and over it was another -chamber the use of which is not apparent. By the west front of the -church a guest-house for the poorer travellers was erected about 1464 in -two storeys, the lower one containing an oven; but the superior guests -were entertained in the Prior’s lodging. Although surrounded by earlier -buildings, the cloister was not completed until the second building -epoch, the north walk occupying the site of the proposed south aisle of -the nave, and the original doorway which had been built to be the south -door of the church now crosses the east walk at the north end. - -The Prior’s lodgings (see p. 143) form an important and picturesque -group of buildings standing by themselves to the south-east of the -church, much in the same position as those of Durham. The vaulted -basement under the Prior’s hall and most of the substructure may be the -earliest part of the conventual buildings remaining, and earlier in date -than the church, though much of the upper storey which contains the -hall, camera and chapel belong to the subsequent periods. The low -building at the west end containing a fireplace, which has been -described as the Prior’s kitchen, seems to be the building which, -according to the _Gentleman’s Magazine_ for 1836, was the "spacious -entertainment room" which Mr. Prebendary Spence erected for the use of -the picnic parties which have in modern times pervaded the ruins. To the -north of the Prior’s lodging, separated from it only in the basement -story, is the building mentioned in the account rolls for 1460 under the -name of the "Douglestour." How it came by this name is uncertain, but as -the lower part of the building was standing in 1328 when Douglas and his -Scots made their raid across Northumberland to the banks of the Wear, -it may have gained it through some association with him. The upper -storey of the tower formed the Prior’s camera and had at the north end -an embayed window which commanded a charming prospect of the river and -the Cocken woods beyond. St. Godric was reputed to be the special patron -of women, and this encorbelled window-base was known by them as the -"wishing-chair"; but whatever was its charm, the spell was broken when -the monks left the convent at the Reformation. - -At the Dissolution, as its income was less than £200 per annum, the -Priory was treated as one of the lesser monasteries and suppressed in -1536, when the site was granted to the Bishop of Durham, and the -buildings were left neglected; but their ruin was hastened by being -treated as a stone-quarry. It does not appear that the Priory was ever -purposely damaged otherwise, and it remains, after three centuries of -neglect, a more perfect and picturesque ruin than many of higher -importance and more beautiful architecture. - - - - -MONKWEARMOUTH AND JARROW - -BY THE REV. D. S. BOUTFLOWER, M.A. - - -It is almost impossible for the student of history to dissociate the two -names. In their earliest origin, in the ups and downs of their long -existence, and almost, if not quite, in their present conditions, the -sister churches have met with one and the same experience. Their -foundations were laid within the short period of ten years; they have -arisen and decayed and revived (and that more than once) almost -simultaneously. They have shared together honour and neglect, wealth and -poverty. In all things and at all times the supreme desire of their -great founder has been fulfilled, and Monkwearmouth and Jarrow have been -one. Planted long ago as outposts of religious culture brought oversea -to the mouths of the Wear and the Tyne, the Churches of St. Peter and -St. Paul are now the centres of populous districts. Like other churches -around them, they have their own busy church life; but, unlike to and -above the rest, these two stand as witnesses of the antiquity and -continuity of the Christian faith in England. The churches where Bede -worshipped are still, at least in part, the churches of the twentieth -century. The Gospels which he expounded are heard at their Communion -services to-day. - -Much of their history must be sought for and read in the buildings -themselves. The first thing they will tell us is that they belong to a -very early period of Saxon art. We have other evidence to assure us that -these were - -[Illustration: MONKWEARMOUTH CHURCH.] - -among the first stone churches in England, and to tell how masons were -brought from the Continent to erect them. The singular height of the -church at Monkwearmouth would lead us to the same conclusion. They were -thus churches of quite a peculiar type, a type destined to undergo many -modifications in later times. In Monkwearmouth and Jarrow you are face -to face with the earliest form of English ecclesiastical architecture. - -We have no need to ask about the builders, or to wrangle over the date -of their foundation. There are darker and lighter periods in any -history; Monkwearmouth and Jarrow have, indeed, known much of both. But -the light shines clearly enough upon their early days. For Monkwearmouth -saw the birth and Jarrow the death of the patriarch of English -historians. Both places claim him as altogether their own. In the united -convent of St. Peter and St. Paul he spent practically the whole of his -life. Like all great men, he said little about himself; but he has much -to tell us about his twofold home. We turn gladly enough to the writings -of Bede, and specially to his Lives of the Abbots. We find ourselves at -once in the presence of one who knew how to observe and to describe, to -admire but never to condemn; one who loved to dwell upon the beautiful -in the characters and works of men; a conscientious man withal, who -sought out and told the truth. It is he that relates to us how -Monkwearmouth and Jarrow grew. - -It was not fifty years since the Christian faith had been first taught -to the Northumbrians, and less than forty since its permanent -establishment by the preaching of the gentle Aidan, when there came back -to his native kingdom of Northumbria a man of noble birth and cultured -training, Biscop, called Benedict. He had wealth and interest at his -command, and, above all things, a fervent zeal concentrated upon a -definite purpose. It was an age that had recently witnessed a revival of -monasticism; the life of contemplation had led on to study; orthodoxy - -[Illustration: OLD STONE AT MONKWEARMOUTH.] - -was the aim of trained thinkers; emotional minds dwelt on the -devotedness of the saintly life. Biscop himself was a traveller and a -student; he desired to found his own monastery, and to bring to it -treasures from foreign lands. His relative, King Ecgfrid, granted him -for this purpose an estate at the mouth of the Wear (A.D. 672). There he -built the Church of St. Peter, of which the western wall and porch still -remain. He brought with him (as we have seen) masons, and also glaziers, -who restored to England a science that had long been lost. The building -was quite peculiar in its dimensions--some 60 feet long, 30 high, and 20 -broad. The singular proportions of Monkwearmouth Church, which have long -puzzled antiquaries, appear to be explained by a sermon in the now -printed works of Bede, and possibly preached in the church itself on -some anniversary of its dedication. They correspond with those of -Solomon’s Temple, the units in this last case being cubits. There was a -truly mathematical love of numbers in the mind of Bede, and he is -evidently pleased to explain how the three dimensions above mentioned -set forth in allegory the three Christian virtues of faith, hope, and -charity. The windows were small, and set high in the walls of the -building. You may see two of them, their splays adorned with baluster -shafts, in the western wall of the church. The south wall was adorned -with paintings representing scenes from the Gospel of St. John; a series -of pictures illustrating the Apocalypse occupied the northern wall. The -roof was adorned with portraits of the Virgin and of the Twelve -Apostles; the presumption is that it was in the form of a flat ceiling. -The whole arrangement of the building thus gave fair scope for light, -shelter, and decoration. - -There was a second church soon afterwards erected at Monkwearmouth, -dedicated to St. Mary. There were also dining-rooms and porches and -sleeping apartments, in connection with the last of which there was an -oratory dedicated to St. Lawrence. Where these other buildings lay is -uncertain. Tradition says that they were to the west of the present -church. St. Mary’s Church was probably very much in this direction. In -the fourteenth century "the old kirk" was used as a granary. - -The house at Monkwearmouth grew and prospered, a home of arts and -science and religion. There Bede began to acquire his wonderful -knowledge, and John the Chanter founded his great school of music. Seven -years after its foundation (A.D. 681) expansion became a necessity, and -a new grant of land was obtained, this time at Jarrow, on the south bank -of the Tyne. Seventeen persons, clerical and lay, were sent thither, -their leader being Ceolfrid, to whose care Bede, already for two years -an inmate of the older monastery, was committed. Soon after this event -Biscop departed on his last visit to Rome, leaving his stalwart kinsman -Eosterwini to rule at Monkwearmouth. He was absent for more than three -years, an eventful time, during which both houses suffered grievously -from a visitation of the plague. Eosterwini was its most notable victim, -whilst at Jarrow nearly the whole convent was stricken down. At that -place, as an anonymous writer informs us, only Ceolfrid and one boy, -obviously Bede, were left to chant the daily services. The above facts -will explain the delay in the consecration of the great church at -Jarrow, which, according to a contemporary inscription still preserved, -was not dedicated till the fourth year of Ceolfrid’s presidency. - -Of this church only some stones now remain. A smaller church had, -however, been first built and consecrated, and it is this which forms -the chancel of Jarrow Church to-day. Its dimensions do not suggest any -special meaning. Twenty-eight feet to the west of it, and lying -precisely in the same right line, stood at one time a fabric precisely -similar to that of St. Peter’s, Monkwearmouth, the same, apparently, in -length and breadth and height, and lighted by windows of the same type -and in the same position. Annexed to it on the north and south were a -number of apartments, undoubtedly to be identified with the _porches_ in -Bede’s account of Monkwearmouth, chambers opening by round-headed arches -into the church itself. The arches on the north side, and vestiges of -three rooms on the south, remained as late as the year 1769. Probably -one such porch as this stood at the eastern end of the building; this we -know was the case at Monkwearmouth. These apartments, walled off as they -were from each other, would be used for prayer and study, and sometimes -as places of sepulture. They were probably constructed in imitation of -the chambers round Solomon’s temple. - -This, then, appears to have been the church which it took so long to -complete, and in this building was set up the dedication stone above -mentioned. It was erected and consecrated under the auspices of King -Aldfrid (brother and successor to Ecgfrid), and the Abbot Ceolfrid. -Biscop himself was still abroad, but soon afterwards returned to -England, bringing with him many books and pictures, one series of which, -depicting the events of our Lord’s life, was ranged as a crown round the -Church of St. Mary in the greater monastery; another, representing the -Gospel story by type and antitype, adorned the monastery and Church of -St. Paul. Biscop’s last homecoming had its sorrows. He found Eosterwini -dead, and his successor Sigfrid slowly dying of consumption. Then there -came to himself a stroke of paralysis. Very touching is the story told -us of the last days of the two Abbots. The greater man feels the greater -anxiety. His much-prized library is not to be dispersed, but before all -things the unity of the double foundation is to be maintained. Before -his end comes he appoints Ceolfrid to govern the united monastery of St. -Peter and St. Paul. - -The narrative continues till the year 716, when the aged Ceolfrid -resigned his charge, and departed to die, as he hoped, at Rome. But this -was not to be. His last moments were spent at Langres, near Lyons. But -one great work of Northumbrian art passed on by other hands to -Italy--the splendid manuscript of the Vulgate, now known as the Codex -Amiantinus, and preserved in the Medicean Library at Florence. - -Bede himself lived on in his old home till the year 735. The story of -his end is too well known to need repetition here. Before his death -Northumbria had fallen from its former glory. A period of darkness -supervenes, broken here and there by the lurid light of Danish -invasions. Yet the churches of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow lasted on, -sacked, it might be, burned and desolated, but still saved from total -destruction. - -The period of depression that followed the golden days of the twin -monasteries has left us but scanty memorials of their history. We begin -to hear of times of insecurity, of attacks made upon the eastern coast -of England by Danish pirates. The situations of the two churches would, -under these circumstances, be distinctly against them. Jarrow is to this -day conspicuous; it is probably less well known that Monkwearmouth -Church stood for centuries upon the top of a hill. This is shown quite -clearly in the engraving of the year 1785. The sea rovers would take -their own survey of the coast and its harbours, and would make for any -place that offered promise of pillage. There is much good and rich land -between the Wear and the Tyne, and the monks of early days were -assiduous cultivators. The country of Wilfrid and Biscop and Bede was no -uncivilized or neglected part of the world. To a pagan race there would -be no impediment in the form of religious scruples. The wealth of the -Church would but invite the spoilers to their prey. - -And so the Danes came first to Northern England, to begin with, somewhat -tentatively, in the year 793, harrying the island of Lindisfarne, -plundering its monastery, and burning the church. The next year their -ships put into the Tyne. On the hill overlooking the slake, just where -that river receives its tributary the Don, stood the monastery of -Jarrow, Egfrid’s Port lying immediately below it. Here they landed, and -took such booty as they found. But the people of the neighbourhood -rallied, and drove back the invaders to their ships. Few of them made -good their escape, for the wind was against them. The storm came up into -the river, and the fugitives were driven to the shore, where they and -their chieftain, Ragner Lodbrog, met with the vengeance they deserved. - -It is quite clear that the lesson thus given was not forgotten. We hear -no more of Danish invasions for well on to sixty years. When they -recommenced, they were directed elsewhere. In the year 851 the Danes -landed in Sheppey, and this time they came to stay. The chroniclers have -much to say about _the Army_; but it was not till the year 875 that it -marched into Northern England, and then probably not much beyond York; -it moved south two years later. But meanwhile there had no doubt been -many a raid upon the settlements on the coast. The year 866 was marked -by one of the most serious of these. At that date Hingvar and Hubba -burned the church of Monkwearmouth. The traces of this conflagration are -still distinctly perceptible. Again in the year 875 the fleet of Halfdan -was in the Tyne. Contemporaneously with this event took place the flight -from Lindisfarne, and the commencement of the journeyings of the body of -St. Cuthbert. - -How the Danish power was driven back by Alfred, how his wise policy -reclaimed the half of his kingdom, is a well-known part of our national -history. The final triumph was not so much one of war as of peace. The -wisdom of a very great King effected much; the growing strength of -recovering Christianity did the rest. Never did any ruler so effectually -combine the forces of secular and spiritual power, or hold them more -truly in balance and co-operation. The invaders became settlers, and -have left this part of their history in the names of their new homes. -This is especially true of Lincolnshire; then, hardly less decidedly, of -York. But north of the Tees the English population simply retained lands -which they had never ceased to occupy. Danish place-names in the county -of Durham are few and far between. - -[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL STONEWORK, MONKWEARMOUTH CHURCH.] - -This is so much evidence--and it is worth something--in favour of the -supposition that the sister churches of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow were -not left to permanent ruin. The population of the neighbourhood was, and -remained, English, and would no doubt be warmly attached to the ancient -sanctuaries. Their hearts and minds would be as faithful to the sacred -memories of the past as were those of the wanderers who guarded the body -of St. Cuthbert. That there was no revolution in the history of this -particular district may be presumed from the silence which veils this -part of the story of their two great churches. The theory here advocated -appears to be further confirmed by the one incident recorded at this -period in connection with the church of Jarrow. - -The old faith in the potency of the relics of the saints remained -unshaken through all periods of sunshine or of gloom. Respect for the -past and for the good clings to the devoted Churchman of every age; it -may sometimes even be strong enough to overpower his moral principle. It -was so undoubtedly in the case of Ælfred, a monk of Durham in the early -part of the eleventh century. This man conceived himself to be divinely -commissioned to visit the sites of ancient monasteries and to gather -together the remains of departed martyrs and confessors. He was very -successful in his quest. Hexham and Melrose were laid under -contribution, and Jarrow was not likely to be forgotten. To it he paid -an annual visit on the anniversary of the death of Bede. At least once -he prolonged his stay for several days, fasting and praying in the -church. Then one morning he departed at a very early hour, and he -returned no more. What he had done may be inferred from the assurance -with which he stated in after-years that the remains of Bede were -resting in the grave of St. Cuthbert. From what we know of the man and -of the age there seems little room for dispute about the matter: it -appears, moreover, to have been corroborated at a later date by visual -evidence. - -The story is of interest to us mainly as bearing witness to the fact -that in the year 1022 the church of Jarrow remained a popular centre of -worship. In the case of Monkwearmouth history and legend alike fail us; -we must judge for ourselves. The tower of the church was evidently built -at two distinct periods. The porch and the parvise over it appear to -belong to the age of the founder. They also show traces of the fires of -the Danes. This is not the case with the superstructure. Incontestably -of Saxon work, it belongs to the same period which saw the erection of -at least four church towers in the valley of the Tyne. As it exhibits no -traces of the burning of the year 866, its date and theirs must be -looked for somewhere in the next two centuries. The reign of the -Northumbrian Guthred (A.D. 884-894) has been ascertained to be a period -when relations between Church and State were more than ordinarily -friendly. At this time the tower of Monkwearmouth Church may well have -been completed. It can hardly have been built at a much later date, for -there is other and different work in the - -[Illustration: JARROW CHURCH.] - -same church which appears to belong to the age before the Conquest. The -modern arch between nave and chancel rises on its south side from an -ancient substructure, of which one feature is the cushion moulding at -its base. There is something here begun by Anglo-Saxon masons, but -carried out apparently by Norman builders. It was possibly a work of the -reign of Edward the Confessor, and apparently implies some -contemporaneous reconstruction of the early porch or chancel. - -Subject, then, to the chances of time and of warfare, the churches of -Monkwearmouth and Jarrow still carried on their existence. The latter -was certainly in use at the date of the Conquest. This was a period of -trouble and disaster. Oswulf, the Earl of Northumberland, is displaced, -and soon after murders his successor. Gospatric next buys the earldom, -and forthwith rebels. The Conqueror marches northward in person, and -appoints Robert Cummin to the vacant office. He, too, is assassinated in -the city of Durham. This event is followed by the King’s return, and the -wholesale devastation of the lands north of York. Ethelwin the Bishop, -accompanied by his canons, flees northward with the body of St. -Cuthbert. They rest for a night in the church at Jarrow. Their pursuers -follow on their track and set the building on fire. Northumbria is -devastated by Norman and Scottish enemies at once; and for nine years -the land lies waste. During this period we may well believe that both -our churches stood unroofed and desolate; their walls, on the other -hand, certainly resisted the flames, and were preserved to be ere long -the home of a new band of settlers. - - * * * * * - -The Norman Conquest brought in its train a very distinct revival of -monasticism. This was part of the general movement in favour of order -and authority which then prevailed. It came, no doubt, originally from -Rome. It was, in fact, the characteristic of Rome from very early days. -It made itself felt in the eleventh century by the growth of the -military spirit, and later on by the gradual development of law. It -affected more immediately the religious side of national life. Clerical -celibacy began to be enforced, and the foundation of monasteries was -encouraged. The foreigners took the lead in this matter, amongst them -Walcher of Lorraine, Bishop of Durham. Hearing of a small party of -missionary monks who had just arrived at Monkchester (now Newcastle), he -made haste to invite them to settle in his own territory at Jarrow. We -are told that he gave them the churches there (the plural number is -significant). They were soon joined by others who had followed them from -the South--the men of the North stood aloof; they had at this time good -reason to be suspicious of Southern visitors. The numbers of the monks -grew, and their patron enlarged their estate to meet their increased -needs. Besides a large property in land on both sides of the Tyne, they -received a grant of the church of Monkwearmouth. Briers and trees were -standing within its walls; much the same thing was probably true of -Jarrow. But they set to work with energy to repair and to acquire and to -establish. - -What they did at Monkwearmouth we are not able to say. Probably they -extended the eastern porch into the form of a chancel. Two centuries -later that chancel attained its present peculiar form--long and -narrow--as became the custom in this part of England; it is also -decidedly lofty, being apparently intended thus to correspond with the -ancient nave. Undoubtedly respect was from the first shown to those who -designed the original church. The same right sentiment may be observed -much more evidently in the case of Jarrow, with which as their first and -more important possession Bishop Walcher’s monks proceeded to deal at -once. - -We have mentioned above the existence of two churches at Jarrow, and -have observed that there exists written corroboration of this. The -smaller church which stood to the east is the chancel of the present -building. Twenty-eight feet to the west of it was the termination of -the nave or main block of the western church, built precisely on the -quite mathematical lines of the elder fabric at Monkwearmouth. We may -presume of this building what we know to have been the case at St. -Peter’s, that there was a porch behind the altar, a building, that is to -say, with three walls and one open side. Such a building still exists in -the chancel of the Saxon church at Escomb, near Bishop Auckland. -Assuming that the porch at Jarrow was like that at Escomb, square, and -of proportionately larger dimensions, there would be a space of some -thirteen feet intervening between it and the eastern church. It was here -that the Norman builders would be disposed to erect their tower, and -here the tower was accordingly built, not foursquare after the Norman -model, but in an oblong form. The site occupies a rectangle of thirteen -by twenty-one feet. The lower stages of this structure are essentially -massive and very distinctly Norman in character. The highest storey, on -the other hand, less well executed as some think, has its own -ornateness; it was probably erected in the succeeding generation. If so, -we understand the better the set-back of its northern and southern -sides; the architect employed had, no doubt, his own opinion to the -effect that the tower ought to have been square. - -[Illustration: EARLY ENGLISH SNAKES, MONKWEARMOUTH CHURCH.] - -The principle adopted by Bishop Walcher’s monks appears to have been -that of reverent adaptation to immediate needs. They wished to repair -and to add, but not to destroy. Had their stay at their new home been -prolonged, the case would in time have been altered. Large medieval -buildings would have taken the place of the more primitive original -structures. But their sojourn at Jarrow lasted for only eight years. In -the year 1083 Bishop William of St. Carileph transferred them to his -cathedral. The extruded canons were placed at Auckland and Darlington, -and the Evesham Benedictines occupied the mother-church of the diocese. - -It was all done in haste. It was repented of, no doubt, at leisure. In -the enthusiasm of the moment Bishop William founded the one and only -abbey in the Bishopric of Durham. His successors, we may well believe, -deplored what was politically and ecclesiastically a great mistake. But -what was done could not be undone by anything less than a revolution. -The Abbey of Durham grew and was strong. The magnificence of its -buildings tells of the wealth of the builders. The Durham Household Book -speaks of the stir and pomp and cheerfulness of its daily life. -Meanwhile, the two more ancient sanctuaries were reduced to the -insignificant condition of Cells. They were left with their old estates, -each under the rule of a master, appointed or removed by the Prior of -Durham at his will. Each master had one monk with him for company, -sometimes two, and very rarely three. The masters appear to have taken -but little interest in the spiritual affairs of their churches. The -naves of these buildings were considered the property of the -parishioners, who executed repairs at their own cost; an ill-paid -stipendiary, called the chaplain or parish priest, discharged all -parochial duties. The church of Jarrow had its chapels at Wallsend, at -Shields, and at Westoe. The first named of these was left very much to -itself; the very altar-fees of the other chapels, as well as those of -the churches, were the perquisite of the master, while the services of -the chaplain were remunerated at very much the same rate as those of the -monastery barber. - -The result as regards the fabrics was much what might have been -expected. The nave at Monkwearmouth was left to itself; that at Jarrow -was at some time extended so as to include the ground occupied by its -eastern porch. The other porches or chapels that once flanked this -building may have served for a while as parts of the parish church; then -they fell one after another by a lingering process of decay. On the -other hand, Monkwearmouth Church was in course of time enlarged; a north -aisle was added in the thirteenth century; its very pleasing doorway has -been fortunately preserved. About the same time two rather large windows -were set to lighten the east end of the nave of Jarrow. - -The case was different with the conventual part of the two churches. At -Monkwearmouth, as we have seen, the choir was made long and lofty. Two -Decorated windows were placed on its southern side; a third, similar to -the others, stood in the north wall, all traces of which seem to have -been destroyed in quite recent times. The date of these windows is fixed -by an entry in the account rolls under the year 1347. A little later an -east window of five lights was erected; it has been reproduced from its -fragments, and is not without merit. The design at Monkwearmouth is, -however, far better than the workmanship. - -In the case of Jarrow it was not necessary to find a new chancel; the -old eastern church was quite sufficiently roomy. What was required was -light, and this was provided first by a north-east window and an east -window, each of three lights, and afterwards by two additional windows -of three lights, one on each side of the western end of the chancel. The -latest of these was inserted in the year 1350. - -The two houses conducted their financial affairs in an easy way. They -wanted enough to live upon, but had no further ambitions. They did not -develop their estates, and were careless as to their fisheries. Jarrow -was the richer house, but Monkwearmouth was reckoned the healthier; -thither came the monks of Durham to enjoy the bracing air. Once, at any -rate, Jarrow had to contribute to their maintenance. The usual donations -were made--subscriptions to subsidies and to the needs of scholars at -Oxford. A singular entry is often repeated in the rolls--the cost of -wine for the parishioners’ Communion. - - * * * * * - -Such was the uneventful life of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth till the -revolution of 1536, which brought an end to the existence of the smaller -monasteries. These two were valued at £38 14s. 4d. and £26 9s. 9d. -respectively. - -The property of both the cells passed thenceforth into lay hands, and -the churches became poorer still. To Jarrow was preserved the meagre -endowment of ten marks; to Monkwearmouth two marks less. The former -church had, moreover, Easter offerings and a small parsonage. The -incumbents of both had, of course, an uncertain income from fees. No -attempt to mend matters was made till the commencement of the nineteenth -century. - -Before that period had arrived the neglected churches had at last fallen -quite into decay. The parishioners had had to do something; what they -did was to destroy the nave of Jarrow, and the southern (or Saxon) wall -of Monkwearmouth. These demolitions took place in 1782 and 1806 -respectively. The result of the alterations and rebuildings no doubt -commended itself to those then concerned with such matters. We find a -picture of the new Monkwearmouth Church accompanied with a note of much -satisfaction in a contemporary number of the _Gentleman’s Magazine_. - -Restorations followed in 1861 and 1873, but they could not give back the -past. What was spared has been treated with reverence. The west front of -Monkwearmouth still remains. The church, now apparently sunk into a -hollow, is surrounded by poor and crowded tenements, built upon ballast -brought from the Thames. The medieval chancel is there, its restored -windows now filled with Kempe’s beautiful glass. The music of its -services is worthy of the church of John the Chanter. Only we regret the -loss of the Saxon Church as it once stood upon its hill overlooking -river and sea. Jarrow has been more fortunate; it still crowns the hill -above its wide slake--a landmark well known to all those who use the -waterways of the Tyne. It, too, has its points of interest, its Saxon -chancel and its Norman tower. Much, of course, is missing in both -places. But there is still more than enough to attract and to fascinate -the mind of the Englishman and the Christian, who looks back to the -glories of that good old time that gave to Northumbria and to the world -the life of the one man that was Venerable--the learning and the labours -of Bede. - - - - -THE PARISH CHURCHES OF DURHAM - -BY WILFRID LEIGHTON - - -Architecturally, the parish churches of Durham are best described as of -the "homely order," and one may search the county in vain for an -oft-recurring and distinctive feature, such as the graceful spires of -Northamptonshire, or the splendid Perpendicular towers, which -distinguish so many of the churches of Somerset. In the country of -Benedict Biscop and the Venerable Bede it is natural that we should look -for other matters of interest than striking architecture, and -undoubtedly many of the churches carry evidence of a high antiquity, -though only perhaps a fragment of dog-tooth moulding breaking through -lath and plaster restoration of the eighteenth century. - -Two churches, Jarrow and Monkwearmouth, are no less interesting for the -Saxon remains which they contain than for their association with the -early Christian Fathers of the North. Both these churches date from the -latter part of the seventh century. At the time of their erection -Theodore of Tarsus, to whom the division of the country into parishes is -generally attributed, was Archbishop of Canterbury; but it would not at -this early date be correct to describe them as parish churches, for it -was not until the decay of the brotherhoods to which they were attached -that they ceased to be other than the chapels of their respective -monasteries. - -In another part of this volume full justice has been done to these -early churches, but some reference must be made here to the church of -Escomb, in the west of the county. It is perhaps of an equally early -date and a remarkably perfect example of a church of the period. Very -little is known of its early history, but after the Dissolution it was -regarded as a chapel-of-ease to St. Andrew’s, Auckland. In 1879 it had -fallen into disuse, a new church having been built at some distance. But -upon the "re-discovery" of the nature of the old building, in that year, -funds were at once raised for its repair. - -The church consists of a square chancel, a nave, and a porch as a later -addition. The church has undoubtedly been built with stones from the -Roman camp of Binchester, many of which show the diamond broaching. -Professor Baldwin Brown is of the opinion that the chancel arch, which -is the most striking feature of the interior, was removed bodily from -the camp and set up in pre-Conquest times in its present position. - -On the south side of the chancel there are two original windows, with -semicircular heads, cut out of single blocks, and jambs battering -inwards. There are two original windows on the north side with square -heads. The sills of these windows are thirteen feet from the floor -level, and another window in the west end is placed still higher. At -later dates the walls have been pierced with other windows, two in the -south wall of the nave, one in the west gable, one in the east end, and -one in the south wall of the chancel. Between the two original windows -on the south is a "Saxon" sundial. The original entrances were in the -north and south walls of the nave, and there is a later doorway in the -chancel. A fragment of an early cross is preserved in the church. - -Contemporary with these churches there existed at Hartlepool a monastic -house said by Bede to have been founded by Heiu, the first Northumbrian -nun, and subsequently extended by St. Hilda, before her transition to -Whitby in 657. - -Although continued after this date, its history during the period of the -Danish invasion is lost. The present Church of St. Hilda is mentioned in -the confirmatory charter to Guisborough Priory of Bishop Pudsey in 1195, -and in those of several of his successors, and was most likely included -in the original grant with the churches of Hart and Stranton, of which -it was a dependent chapel. In 1308 Bishop Bek, as a reward for the -continual devotion, charity, and hospitality of the Prior and convent of -Guisborough, granted them the indulgence, that in the church of Hart and -chapel of Hartlepool, service should, after that date, be perpetually -performed by a canon of Guisborough. - -Statutes for the government of the church were drawn up by the -Corporation of Hartlepool in 1599, and appear in the Corporation -records, whence the following extract: - - "Ytt ys ordeyned, that whosoever of this town dothe shott att or - within the churche or churche steple of thys town, with gun, - crosbowe, or anie other shott for the kyllinge of any dove, pigeon, - or anie other foule, shall paye, for every suche offence, to the - use of the town. 12.d." - -In 1600 the number of "pues or stalls" was thirty-three. - -The first church, though much restored, is the one which still remains, -and the finest of the parish churches in the North. Standing on high -ground, the impressive landmark formed by its massive tower and -crocketed pinnacles, over many miles of land and water, has been -referred to with admiration by every historian of the county. - - "The church of Hartlepool differs from most ancient churches in - being throughout one design, carried out at one time.... It tells, - as authentically as any written document could, of the rapid growth - and prosperity which preceded its erection. In the enthusiasm to - which success gives birth, the merchants of Hartlepool said: ‘We - will build a church.’ From the first they contemplated a splendid - design, and this they executed worthily."--BOYLE. - -The church stands to the north-west of the site of St. Hilda’s -Foundation. Its tower is its most striking characteristic. At an early -date the tower must have shown signs of weakness, and the enormous -buttresses which increase its picturesqueness so much were added. These -additions are generally ascribed to the year 1230, and the entrance -arch, with a very beautiful but much decayed chevron moulding, cut -through the south buttress of the west side, is of the same date. The -tower is of three stages, and the south-west corner forms a turret, -through which a staircase leads to the roof. The clerestory windows have -formerly been of three lights each, now built into one, and are very -fine. The original capitals remain, but all the shafts have gone. - -The west, or main entrance, has been built up. The nave is supported by -five clustered pillars on each side, with pointed arches. In the wall of -the south aisle is a piscina. The greater part of the chancel is modern. - -Several chantries were attached to the church before the dissolution of -the monasteries, but the monumental remains are few. - -In the churchyard is a large tomb, which was formerly enclosed within -the walls of the ancient chancel, before the latter was taken down. It -is generally ascribed to the De Bruses, and the armorial shields on the -sides, each charged with a lion rampant, confirm the suggestion. - -Durham possesses another very good example of Early English architecture -in the parish church of Darlington, dedicated to St. Cuthbert. It -consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, a nave with aisles, -and a central tower crowned by a spire. That it stands on a site of -great antiquity is proved by the discovery, in 1866, during restoration, -of fragments of three pre-Conquest crosses, which are now preserved in -the church. In the charter of Styr, son of Ulf, which is included in a -record called by Symeon, the "Ancient Chartulary of the Church," there -is given to St. Cuthbert "the vill which is called Dearthingtun, with -sac and soc," and Symeon again mentions Darlington as one of the places -to which the secularized monks of Durham were removed in 1083 by -William de St. Carileph. On the authority of Geoffry de Coldingham, the -erection of the church has been ascribed to Bishop Pudsey, and the date -to 1190-95. - -The principal entrance is in the west front, set in a richly moulded -arch, with a trefoil-headed niche above. In the second stage of the -front is an arcade of five arches, and the third stage has three arches, -all with dividing shafts. The arches in the second stage are pierced -alternately with lancet lights. The walls of the aisle were greatly -altered about the middle of the fourteenth century, and all the -square-headed windows belong to this period, no features dating from the -original erection of the church remaining except the doorways. The north -doorway has been greatly restored, and the south doorway was originally -covered by a porch; it has a niche above. The clerestory has an arcade -of twelve arches pierced with four lancet windows on each side. Both -transepts and the chancel are of two stages, divided by string courses; -but the south transept is more enriched than the north, both internally -and externally. Buttresses divide the walls of the chancel into three -bays, and the walls and ends of the transepts are similarly divided into -two bays each. Those buttresses at the junctions of the transepts and -the chancel, owing to their great proportion, have much the appearance -of corner turrets. The spire and the higher stage of the tower are of -the same date as the walls of the aisles. Longstaffe says of the spire: -"On July 17, 1750, this beautiful spire, considered the highest and -finest in the North of England, was rent.... The storm occasioned -fifteen yards of the spire to be taken down and rebuilt in 1752.... -Unfortunately the mason omitted the moulding at the angles of the new -part." - -Incidentally it should be noted that Durham is one of the counties in -which spires are comparatively rare. - -The tower is supported by four arches on clustered shafts, and the nave -is divided from its aisle by four arches on each side. The east wall of -the chancel is modern. Three sedilia of the Decorated period occupy the -usual position in the chancel. In one of the windows on the east side of -the south transept occurs the only instance of the dog-tooth ornament in -the interior of the church, and there is a piscina in both of the side -walls of the same transept. - -Darlington is the only church in the county which retains a rood-loft. - -On the south of the chancel is the vestry, which has been greatly -modernized. The only monumental effigy is that of an unknown lady with a -book in her hand. It dates from the early thirteenth century, and is -placed at the west end of the nave. - -After the two churches last mentioned, the church at Sedgefield, -dedicated to St. Edmund the Bishop, but formerly dedicated to the -Virgin, is probably the finest in the county. The nave and chancel date -from the Early English period. The tower is very fine, of Perpendicular -date and of three stages, crowned by battlemented parapets and small -spirelets standing on angle buttresses. The Rev. J. F. Hodgson is of the -opinion that it was intended to crown the tower with an open lantern, as -at St. Nicholas’ Cathedral, Newcastle. - -There are two transepts; the south contains the chapel of St. Thomas, -and in its east wall are two piscinas, one of which is trefoil-headed; -and in the south wall are two pointed recesses occupied by much -mutilated male and female effigies, the latter dating from the later -fourteenth century. The north transept contains the Chapel of St. -Katherine, and is now known as the Hardwick porch. Two of its ancient -windows still remain, and fix its date as 1328. The east window is -filled with Late Decorated tracery. The nave is divided from the aisles -by three pointed arches, supported by clustered pillars on moulded -bases. The capitals are richly carved and very interesting. - -The font is octagonal and of Frosterley marble, dating from the end of -the fifteenth century, and charged on each side with armorial shields, -most likely carved in the seventeenth century. The stall work of the -chancel is ascribed to the latter part of the seventeenth century, and -the rich chancel screen to a slightly earlier date. - -On the north side of the chancel is the grave cover of Andrew de -Stanley, first master of Greatham Hospital. - -Two interesting brasses of skeletons in shrouds are preserved in the -vestry, and were originally inlaid in one slab. Another small brass is -in the south transept. It is considered to be one of the earliest in -England, and represents a lady in loose robe with tight sleeves and -wimple and hood. There is another brass to the memory of William Hoton, -engraved with a helmet and crest of three trefoils. - -Of the five bells, one is of pre-Reformation date, bearing the -inscription "✠ TRINITATE SACRA FIAT HEC CAMPANA BEATA," and the arms of -Rhodes and Thornton. - -The church at Staindrop, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, was much -mutilated by restorations in 1849, but its sepulchral monuments to -members of the Neville family are unrivalled. - -Parts of the walls of the nave are of pre-Reformation date, and two of -the original windows still remain. The north and south aisles were added -to the original structure in the twelfth century, when the nave walls -were pierced by three arches on each side, supported on cylindrical -pillars, with capitals carved in different foliage designs. During the -following century the plan of the church was altered, and an additional -bay added to the west end of the nave, north and south transepts thrown -out, and the tower erected. The tower was of three stages, probably -crowned by a wooden spire, taken down in 1408, when a fourth stage was -added. Being built on the original corbel-tables, and overhanging the -substructure, it gives the whole a very heavy appearance. About the -same time the original high-pitched roofs were lowered to the almost -flat roofs which now exist, and the clerestory of the nave built. Before -the date of the latter alterations extensive changes had been made in -the church during the fourteenth century, when Ralph, Lord Neville, -under licence of the Prior and convent of Durham, endowed three -chantries. The original south aisle and transept were removed, and the -present south aisle, which is much wider than the nave, erected. At the -south-east angle of the aisle a small porch or vestry projects, which -was intended for the use of the priests officiating in the chantries. - -Shortly after these alterations, the symmetry of the church being -destroyed, a new north aisle and transept, of similar dimensions, but -much inferior work, were erected. The ancient vestry opening from the -chancel, with _domus inclusa_ above, is very interesting. - -Staindrop is the only church in the county in which the pre-Reformation -chancel screen remains, but the rood-loft which surmounted it has been -destroyed. The font is octagonal, and of Teesdale marble, decorated with -armorial bearings, and may date from the latter part of the fourteenth -century. - -The first of the effigies before referred to is that of a lady, and lies -in a recess in the south aisle. It is ascribed to Isabel de Neville, -wife of Robert FitzMeldred, Lord of Raby. "The costume is an excellent -example of the dress of a gentlewoman of Western Europe in the second -half of the thirteenth century and beginning of the fourteenth." -Sepulchral effigies of females of this early date are extremely rare. -The general resemblance of this effigy to that of Aveline, Countess of -Lancaster, in Westminster Abbey, who died in 1269, is very striking. - -The second effigy in point of date is attributed to Euphemia, mother of -Ralph, Lord Neville, founder of the chantries and builder of the south -aisle, in which it lies in an enriched recess. The third, a female -effigy, is also in the same aisle, and though no doubt representing one -of the Neville family, its exact identity is a matter of some -controversy. It dates from the fourteenth century, and the remaining -effigy in the aisle--that of a boy--is of the same date. - -A remarkably fine altar-tomb, with effigies of Ralph Neville, first Earl -of Westmorland, and his wives--Margaret, daughter of Hugh, Earl of -Stafford, and Joan, daughter of John of Gaunt--has been described as the -most splendid in the North of England. - -The Earl is dressed in a rich suit of full armour, with collar of SS., -and the ladies in kirtles, with jewelled girdles and sideless surcoats -and mantles. Their arms have been destroyed. The Earl died in 1426. - -The remaining monument is to the memory of Henry Neville, fifth Earl of -Westmorland, who died in 1564, and his two first wives--Anne, daughter -of Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland, and Jane, daughter of Sir Richard -Cholmondeley. - -The monument is of oak, and ornamented with effigies of the Earl’s -children and armorial bearings. The Earl is dressed in armour, and an -inscription states that the tomb was made in the year 1560. - -In addition to the churches already mentioned, the south and south-east -districts of the county are rich in churches, worthy, if space availed, -of more than passing notice. - -At Barnard Castle the church dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin carries -evidence that it was in early times a large and important edifice, and -in the twelfth century consisted of chancel and nave, with north and -south aisles. Rebuilding and structural alterations were carried out -from time to time until the middle of the fifteenth century, when both -transepts were rebuilt. The vestry is probably of the same date, and the -chancel arch, which is very fine, slightly earlier. The tower is modern, -and replaced a fifteenth-century structure. The floor of the chancel is -much higher than that of the nave, and evidence of a similar difference -in levels is found at Lanchester Church. Two arched recesses, one of -which contains an effigy of a priest, are in the north wall of the north -transept, and a mutilated piscina is in the south wall of the same -transept. In this church there were four chantry chapels dedicated -respectively to St. Catherine, St. Helen, St. Margaret, and the Trinity, -and referred to in old records, but their exact position cannot now be -ascertained. - -The church at Winston has several sepulchral brasses, but, with the -exception of the walls of the chancel, which contain two remarkable -single-light windows, and the arcade and north wall of the nave, is -modern. - -Nearer to Darlington is the Church of St. Andrew at Haughton-le-Skerne. -The whole of the edifice is of one period, and dates from the second -quarter of the twelfth century. Its most striking feature is a massive -tower, surmounted by a battlemented turret of later date. The richly -carved woodwork of Restoration date is interesting. In the east wall of -the nave is a monumental brass, and a stone slab in the floor of the -tower commemorates the death of Elizabeth Naunton, Prioress of Neasham, -1488-89. - -The only medieval pulpit in the county is in the Church of St. Michael -at Heighington. It is of oak, and carved with the linen pattern design -and flowing tracery, with an inscription on the cornice. - -The church dates from the twelfth century, and considerable remains of -that date still exist. - -At Aycliffe, the Church of St. Andrew is substantially a building of -Norman date. It now consists of a chancel, nave with north and south -aisles, south porch, and western tower, the latter and the south aisle -dating from the beginning of the thirteenth century. Remains of several -pre-Conquest crosses are in the church and churchyard. - -Gainford Church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, is all of one period, -and with a few exceptions dates from the middle of the thirteenth -century. It contains several interesting brasses. The same may be said -of the Church of St. Edwin at Coniscliffe, which has a very interesting -carved slab above the south door. - -The Church of All Saints at Hurworth contains several effigies, but was -almost entirely rebuilt in 1870. The Church of St. Mary at Egglescliffe -has portions of Early Norman date, but the chancel dates from the later -Perpendicular period, and has a fine east window of five lights. On the -south side of the nave is a fourteenth-century chapel, with a sepulchral -effigy of a man in rich armour in a niche in the outer wall. - -St. Cuthbert at Redmarshall is a modest structure, but contains two -interesting alabaster effigies of Thomas de Langton and Sybil, his wife, -placed in a fifteenth-century chantry chapel on the south side of the -nave. - -Both Norton and Billingham contain churches of great interest. The -former has portions of pre-Conquest date, and was one of the churches to -which William de St. Carileph removed the monks of Durham in 1083. The -church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, contains a nave and side -aisles, chancel, north and south porches, and central tower. The latter -originally rose no higher than the ridges of the main roofs, and formed -a chamber, the floor of which has been removed. Beneath the tower is a -very fine effigy of a knight in chain armour, surmounted by a crocketed -canopy. The chancel was rebuilt in the thirteenth century, and the upper -stage of the tower is probably of the same period. - -At Billingham the church is dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The tower is of -pre-Conquest date, and has certain points of resemblance to the higher -stage of that at St. Peter’s, Monkwearmouth. Several fragments of -pre-Conquest crosses are built into the south wall of the tower, and the -church has three memorial brasses. - -In Durham City, St. Oswald’s, the parish church of Elvet, has a -well-recorded history, and was the subject of an amusing dispute between -the Bishop Philip de Pictavia and the Prior and monks of Durham, arising -from a charter - -[Illustration: NORTON CHURCH.] - -of Henry II. confirming to the latter "Elvet, with the church of the -same town." - -On the accession of Philip--the last vicar, Richard de Coldingham, -having recently died-- - - "Four of the monks from St. Cuthbert’s held possession of the - church, and lived constantly in it. - - "The Bishop ... issued a command that the monks should quit the - church. This they refused to do; whereupon the Bishop employed as - many as thirty watchmen, who guarded all the doors and windows, so - that no food should reach the monks in the church. After two or - three days, two of the monks could endure the fast no longer, and - abandoned their charge. Their example was shortly followed by the - others.... Four days were occupied by negotiations, at the end of - which the Bishop confirmed the possession of the church to them - ‘for their own proper uses.’"--BOYLE. - -The church is of various periods, and has a very good clerestory with a -fine open-work parapet, and a tower of more than ordinary interest, with -a stone staircase in the thickness of the wall, roofed with thirteenth -and fourteenth century grave-covers. - -St. Margaret’s and St. Giles’s are two city churches of interest. Both -have several pre-Reformation bells, and of the latter-- - - "an interesting fact in the history of this church is that St. - Godric, during the period he resided in Durham, was an attendant at - its services, and at length became doorkeeper and - bellringer."--BOYLE. - -Pittington Church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, is one of the most -interesting churches in the central district of the county. Portions of -the western bays of the nave are of Norman date. In the twelfth century -great structural alterations were made to the original church, which had -consisted of a nave and chancel only. The tower belongs to this period, -and the wonderful north arcade pierced through the original north wall -of the nave. The arcading of the wall forms four bays, and a fifth was -built as an elongation to the east, the original chancel being taken -down and rebuilt. The pillars are alternately cylindrical, ornamented -with spiral bands, and octagonal with flutings. The arches are of two -orders, ornamented towards the nave with chevron mouldings, and resting -on octagonal cushioned capitals. During the thirteenth century the -church was enlarged by a south aisle being built. The tower arch is also -of this period. The date of the clerestory is uncertain. In 1846 the -chancel was taken down, and the south aisle entirely, and north aisle -partly, rebuilt, and the nave again lengthened. In the splays of an -early window in the north wall of the nave are remains of two wall -paintings. - - "They are undoubtedly portions of a complete series of paintings - occupying the whole interior of the first Norman church.... They - represent two incidents in the life of St. Cuthbert--viz., his - consecration by Archbishop Theodore, and his vision at the table of - the Abbess Ælfleda...."--FOWLER. - -There is an interesting grave-cover in the floor beneath the tower, -bearing an inscription to the memory of Christian the Mason, a -contemporary of Bishop Pudsey. Also an effigy attributed to the family -of Fitz-Marmaduke, Lords of Horden, and several interesting monumental -stones. - -All the bells, three in number, are of pre-Reformation date. - -The important Church of St. Michael at Houghton-le-Spring dates almost -entirely from the thirteenth century, but stands on the site of a much -earlier erection, of which a portion still remains in the north wall of -the chancel, containing a square-headed doorway and round-headed window. -The church, as now existing, consists of a chancel with north and south -transepts, nave with north and south aisles, south porch, and central -tower. In the north wall of the chancel is an arcade of eight lancets, -much restored, and opening from the south side is an unusual -two-storeyed erection, which, it is presumed, had some connection with -the ancient Gild of Holy Trinity and St. Mary, established in the church -in 1476. - -The windows in the gables of the transepts are modern. In the east wall -of the south transept are three tall lancets and two in the -corresponding wall of the north transept. In a recess in the south wall -of the former is a roughly carved and much-weathered effigy of a man in -armour, dating from the thirteenth century, and a similar effigy of -later date and superior workmanship lies in the same transept, together -with the altar-tomb of Bernard Gilpin, "the apostle of the North," and a -brass to the memory of Margery, wife of Richard Bellasis of Henknoll, -dated 1587. Both the transepts contained chantry chapels before the -Reformation, and in both are piscinas in the usual position. - -The arcading of the nave is very fine, and supported on clustered piers. -The east and west windows are Decorated insertions and contain good -tracery. The lower stage of the tower and its supporting arches are -contemporary with the main body of the church, the upper stage is modern -and with the present spire replaced the ancient spire of wood. - -At Dalton, the Church of St. Andrew, is a very simple structure, but -contains an unusual sundial, consisting of carved stone figures on the -inside of the north wall of the nave, upon which the time is marked by a -sunbeam passing through a window. - -St. Mary’s, Easington, has suffered much at the hands of restorers, but -still remains a most interesting church. The whole of the present -edifice, with the exception of the tower, which is of Norman work, dates -from the thirteenth century. The nave is separated from its aisle by -four pointed arches on either side resting on piers, alternately -octagonal and cylindrical. The clerestory is good and has four lancet -windows on each side. With the exception of the original round-headed -windows in the tower, all the windows are restorations. The present -entrance is at the south of the tower, the original entrance to the nave -having been built up. The woodwork of the chancel is interesting. There -are two fine male and female effigies of the Fitz-Marmaduke family in -the chancel, but their identity is uncertain. They date from the latter -part of the thirteenth century. - -In the north-eastern quarter of the county there are the churches of -Jarrow and Monkwearmouth already referred to, and several other edifices -of ancient foundation, but so much restored and modernized as to retain -few of their original features. - -[Illustration: BOLDON SPIRE.] - -This may be said of the church at Whitburn, which contains a peculiar -seventeenth-century monumental effigy in wood. The Church of St. -Nicholas at West Boldon occupies a lofty site on the side of a hill, and -is visible for many miles over Jarrow and the low land round Hedworth. -The oldest portions date from the beginning of the thirteenth century. -In January, 1906, the nave and chancel roofs were destroyed by fire, and -several of the monumental inscriptions badly scorched. The Church of St. -Hilda, at South Shields, occupies a site of great antiquity, but was -entirely rebuilt in 1810. - -The Church of St. Mary, Gateshead, is of more general interest, but has -been greatly restored. The tower was rebuilt in 1740. The roof of the -nave is good, and of Perpendicular date. Several pre-Reformation -grave-covers are built into the walls, two of special interest being in -the porch. A number of quaint extracts from the parish books are given -by Surtees: - - 1632. Paid for whipping black Barborie 6d. - - 1649. Paid at Mris Watsons, when the Justices sate to examin the - witches ¾; for a grave for a witch 6d; for trying the witches £1. - 5. 0. - - 1671. Paid for powder and match when the Keelemen mutinyed 2/-. - - 1684. For carrying 26 Quakers to Durham £2. 17s. - -In the north-west of the county, Ryton Church (Holy Cross), dates from -the thirteenth century, and is all of one period. It consists of a -chancel, nave with north and south aisles, western tower with spire, and -south porch. In the chancel is a square-headed piscina in the usual -position, a priest’s doorway, and a low side-window, now built up. In -the north wall is an ambry. The arcades of the nave are of three arches -each, the easternmost pillars on each side being octagonal, the others -cylindrical. The corbel-table of the tower is of interest, several of -the corbels being carved in foliage designs. The wooden, lead-covered -spire is contemporary with the tower. Within the altar-rails is a fine -sepulchral effigy in marble of a deacon. - -Returning again to the central districts, the Church of St. Mary and St. -Cuthbert at Chester-le-Street is the successor of an early wooden -edifice, which sheltered for the greater part of two centuries the -remains of the latter saint, before the Danish invasion of 995 caused -his guardians--for better security--to remove their charge to Ripon. -Egelric, fourth Bishop of Durham, decided to rebuild the church of -stone, but it is doubtful if any remains of his church are incorporated -in the present building. The date of the erection of the latter is -uncertain. - -The oldest portions of the present church are the north and south walls -of the chancel, and in the south wall are inserted three windows, dating -from the thirteenth century, and evidently contemporary with the three -eastern bays of the arcade of the nave. The remaining bays of the nave -and the tower are later additions, and the graceful spire still later, -dating from the Early Decorated period. - -At the time of the Reformation there were two chantries in the church, -one being in the south aisle, at the east end of which there is a -trefoil-headed piscina and square ambry. At the west end of the north -aisle, partly within and partly without the church, is an interesting -two-storied erection, containing four chambers, which must have, at one -time, been an anchorage. The church is chiefly remarkable for the series -of fourteen monumental effigies of presumed members of the Lumley -family. Eleven, however, were the work of sculptors employed by John, -Lord Lumley, at the end of the sixteenth century, and two were removed -by him from the graveyard of Durham Abbey, under the mistaken impression -that they represented two of his ancestors. - - "The first effigy, evidently imaginary, represents Liulph in a coat - of mail.... Above this venerable personage is a long inscription - commemorating the whole family descent. - - "Next to Liulph lies Uchtred, in a suit of chain armour.... - - "The third effigy, William, son of Uchtred, who first assumed the - Lumley name, is probably genuine. He appears in a full suit of - chain armour, over which is a surcoat, with the drapery hanging in - easy folds below the girdle. The legs are crossed, and rest on a - lion. A shield on the left arm. The head rests on a cushion. - - "The second William de Lumley appears in plate of a much less - genuine description.... - - "And the third William is like unto him, save that his legs be - straight and his hair wantonly crisped. - - "And Roger is like William, but sore mutilated. - - "Robert de Lumley, extremely like Roger.... - - "Sir Marmaduke Lumley, in mail.... - - "Ralph, first Baron Lumley ... one of those removed from the - cemetery of the Cathedral Church of Durham, a close coat of mail, - the visor ribbed down the front with two transverse slits for the - sight, the breast covered with the shield, the sword unsheathed and - upright, the point resting against the visor, the legs straight, - resting on a couchant hound. - - "Sir John Lumley, almost minutely resembling the last. - - "George Lord Lumley. An effigy, recumbent like his predecessors.... - The dress is probably intended for the robes of the baron. - - " ... Sir Thomas Lumley, Knight. The figure is in mail.... - - "Richard, Lord Lumley.... - - "The last effigy, John, Lord Lumley, in robes...."--SURTEES. - -In the church is also a thirteenth-century effigy of a bishop, -representing St. Cuthbert. - -St. Mary the Virgin, Lanchester, is a very interesting church, and has -portions of Norman date. It consists of a chancel, nave with north and -south aisles, and south porch, western tower, and a vestry. The chancel -dates from the thirteenth century, and there is a very fine piscina in -its south wall. The chancel arch dates from the middle of the twelfth -century. The vestry opens from the chancel by a very fine doorway, with -a cinquefoil arch. The arcades of the nave have four bays on either -side, with cylindrical pillars and pointed arches. The south aisle and -porch date from the beginning, and the north aisle from the end, of the -fourteenth century. - -There is a brass in the chancel to the memory of John Rudd, and an -effigy of a priest lies in a recess in the south aisle. During the -episcopacy of Bishop Bek the church was made collegiate with a Dean and -seven Prebendaries, and portions of the woodwork of their stalls are -still preserved. - -The church at Brancepeth (St. Brandon) has parts dating from the -thirteenth century, and is an interesting edifice. The panelling and -general internal fittings of the church are of a most elaborate nature. -Over the chancel arch is some remarkable screen work, carved in oak and -painted white. The chancel screen and stalls date from the time of John -Cosin, who was rector of Brancepeth before being raised to the Bishopric -in 1661, but have the appearance, in common with much of his work at -Durham Castle, of belonging to a much earlier period. - -There are several sepulchral effigies to members of the Neville family -in the church. - -St. Michael’s, Bishop Middleham, is a thirteenth-century church and all -of one period. Whitworth church was entirely rebuilt in 1850, and is -only interesting for the remarkable male and female sepulchral effigies -in the churchyard. - -At Bishop Auckland, St. Helen’s has a chancel arch and two bays of the -arcades of the nave of Late Transitional work, a very short period -separating them from the western bays of the nave. The chancel is of -thirteenth-century date, and the aisles are prolonged to engage the -greater part of it, forming chantry chapels. The clerestory has three -two-light, Late Perpendicular windows on each side, and at the west end -is a round-headed window of earlier date, but evidently an insertion in -its present position. The east window consists of three lancets under -one arch, the spandrel spaces being pierced. The south doorway is of -Perpendicular date, and the porch, a later addition, has in common with -St. Andrew’s, Auckland, a chamber above. There is a brass of -fifteenth-century date in the church. - -The Church of St. Andrew’s, Auckland, is a fitting edifice to close this -brief account of the parish churches of Durham. Its site has from the -earliest times of Christianity in the North been occupied by a church, -and there is strong evidence that it was the home of a collegiate body -formed of monks removed from Durham by Bishop William de St. Carileph. -This establishment was reorganized by Bishop Bek in 1292, and great -alterations were made in the fabric of the church at the same time. - -The church consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, nave with -north and south aisles, and western tower. It dates from the thirteenth -century, and there is evidence that it succeeded a building of Norman -date, which was itself either an enlargement of, or a successor to, the -first building. - -The church has many points of great interest, and perhaps the most -striking features of the interior are the arcades of the nave. These are -of five bays each, with richly moulded arches, resting on alternate -octagonal and clustered piers. The north transept was almost entirely -rebuilt during restoration, but the new work is a copy of the old, -which, however, did not date from the original church, but was one of -the alterations of Bishop Bek, before referred to. The east wall of the -chancel is also his work. In 1417 a higher stage was added to the tower, -and the clerestory of the nave is of still later date. - -The chancel stalls are the work of Cardinal Langley and very effective. -There are two monumental effigies in the church, one of a Knight in -armour, the other of a lady; both apparently date from the end of the -fourteenth century. There are also three brasses. - - - - -MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS OF THE COUNTY OF DURHAM - -BY EDWIN DODDS - - -The earliest-known burial-place in the county of Durham has no -monumental inscriptions in it. It is a barrow opened at Copt Hill, near -Houghton-le-Spring, which contained Neolithic remains, and it is -interesting inasmuch as it has also vestiges of burials made again after -the lapse of many years, when the Bronze Age had superseded the period -in which men warred and worked with weapons of stone only. There is no -memento known of the Paleolithic Age in the county, and only thirteen -places of burial used by Neolithic man have been investigated. Of the -Bronze Age about a dozen burial-places have been examined, many of them -containing those small rudely fashioned earthenware vessels, from three -to six inches high, roughly ornamented with simple lines and dots, which -are known as "food-vessels" and "incense-cups." - -Of the monumental inscriptions left by the Romans, two of the most -interesting were found near the Roman station in South Shields. One of -them is an elaborately carved slab, four feet long, which bears the -figure of a woman seated, with a work-basket at her left hand and a -jewel-case at her right; she seems to be occupied in needlework. Below -is the Latin inscription: "To the Divine Shades of Regina, of the -Catuallaunian Tribe, a freed woman, and the wife of Barates the -Palmyrene. She lived thirty years." Below this is a line in Syriac: -"Regina, the freed woman of Barate. Alas!" The district of Catuallauna -is said to have extended from Gloucestershire to Lincolnshire. It is -strange that affinity of souls should have brought together as man and -wife a merchant from Syria and a slave from the centre of England. -Another Roman gravestone from South Shields, found in 1885, reads: "To -the Divine Shades of Victor. He was by nation a Moor: he lived twenty -years: and was the freed man of Numerianus, a horseman of the first ala -of Asturians, who most affectionately followed [his former servant to -the grave]." This stone probably dates from about A.D. 275; it bears the -half-recumbent figure of a man on a couch, with a canopy above and the -inscription below. At Binchester, near Bishop Auckland--the Vinovia of -the Romans--a plain slab with ansated ends was found inscribed: "Sacred -to the Divine Shades. Nemesius Montanus the Decurion lived forty years. -Nemesius Sanctus, his brother, and his coheirs, erected this in -accordance with the provisions of his will." This slab was also probably -carved and set up in the third century. In Roman epitaphs no mention of -death is ever made; it is stated that the person commemorated had lived -so many years, but the fact that he died and the date of his death is -not recorded. - -Of Anglo-Saxon memorial crosses there are a large number in the county -of Durham, all of them of great interest, and some of beautiful -workmanship. The most notable are those at Aycliffe, Billingham, -Chester-le-Street, Coniscliffe, Darlington, Dinsdale, Durham (where, in -the Dean and Chapter Library, there is a fine collection both of -original stones from several places and of facsimile copies), Elwick, -Escomb, Gainford, Great Stainton, Haughton-le-Skerne, Hurworth, Kelloe, -Norton, Sockburn, and Winston-on-the-Tees. None of them are perfect; -most of them are fragments of monuments which have at some time been -broken up and used as building stones. - -[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON STONE AT CHESTER-LE-STREET.] - -The cross at Kelloe is made up of pieces now carefully joined together; -it is a very fine example. Most of these crosses have the characteristic -knot-work ornament, and many of them have human figures, crucifixions, -monsters, warriors, animals, and birds, carved upon them, the sculpture -and design being of the Anglian school. Very few of them have any -lettering. One at Chester-le-Street has EADMUND in mixed Runic and Roman -letters, but this may be an addition by a later hand. The hog-backed -stones of this period, of which some very fine specimens were discovered -at Sockburn in 1900, bear similar knot-work ornaments. In 1833 a -burial-place at Hartlepool, and in 1834 one at Monkwearmouth, were -discovered; they both yielded memorial stones, small in size, but of -great interest. A stone from the latter place, now in the British -Museum, bears the name TIDFIRTH in Runic characters. Tidfirth was the -last Bishop of Hexham, and was deposed about the year 821. The stones -found at Hartlepool are known as pillow-stones; they are almost square, -and only from 9 to 12 inches across by about 2 inches thick. Only seven -of them have been saved. They all bear a cross, sunk in some stones and -raised on others, and several of them have short inscriptions in Saxon -minuscules. One reads: "ORATE PRO EDILUINI ORATE PRO UERMUND ET -TORTHSUID." - -Those effigies, or early statues, generally recumbent, and made -sometimes of wood, but more often of stone, which were placed in -churches from the twelfth to the sixteenth centuries, are to be found in -many places in the county, sometimes decently and carefully preserved in -the church, sometimes left to weather and decay in the churchyard, or in -the rectory garden. Among the more noticeable of them are the following: - -At the west end of Staindrop Church is the "altar-tomb of alabaster," -with an effigy of Ralph Neville, first Earl of Westmorland, in plate -armour, and with figures of his two wives, one on either hand. Surtees, -in his _History of Durham_, describes it as "this noble tomb, which is -in the purest style of the best age of sepulchral monuments." Its date -is probably about 1425. There is in the same church another tomb with -effigies, in wood, of the fifth Earl of Westmorland and his two wives; -it is dated 1560. - -Barnard Castle Church has an effigy of a priest attired in chasuble, -stole, dalmatic, alb, and amice. The inscription is in Lombardic -lettering, and reads: "ORATE PRO AIA ROBERTI DE MORTHAM QNDM VICARII DE -GAYNFORD." This Robert de Mortham founded a chantry at Barnard Castle in -1339. - -At Bishopwearmouth there was formerly the effigy of Thomas Middleton of -Chillingham, the founder of the family of Silksworth. It represented -Middleton in complete armour, with his hands raised. It bore the -inscription: "Hic jacet Thom’ Middylton Armiger -- -- -- MCCC." At one time -this statue lay on an altar-tomb in the north aisle of the church; later -it was placed upright against the wall of the aisle; later, again, it is -recorded that it lay, broken into two pieces, in the porch; to-day it -cannot be found. - -In the Church of St. Giles, in the city of Durham, there is a wooden -effigy in complete armour, which is supposed to represent the first -John Heath, of Kepier, who was buried in the chancel of that church in -1590. - -The Lumley monuments are a collection of fourteen effigies which lie in -the north aisle of Chester-le-Street Church. They were placed there by a -Lord Lumley about 1594. They represent the Lords of Lumley from Liulph, -who lived in the days of William the Conqueror, down to the John, Lord -Lumley, who fought at Flodden Field in 1513. Probably only three of the -fourteen monuments are genuine; the others were either manufactured or, -more probably, collected from other places. - -The old chapel at Greatham was pulled down in 1788. In a recess in the -south wall of the transept there was a wooden effigy of an ecclesiastic. -During the rebuilding of the chapel a stone coffin containing his bones -and a chalice of pewter was found near the foot of the wall. - -In the Pespoole seats in the south aisle of Easington Church there is an -elegant recumbent figure of a woman, carved in Stanhope marble. On it -are carved the three popinjays which were carried on the coat of arms of -the ancient owners of Horden. At Heighington Church there are two female -effigies, one of which has been very fine, but they are both much -weathered and decayed; they are probably of fourteenth-century date. In -the same church there is a medieval pulpit, the only one remaining in -the county. It is of oak, and on it there is inscribed in black letter: -"<f>orate p’ aiabz Alexandri flessehar et agnetis uxoris sue</f>." To -commemorate oneself by giving a pulpit to the church seems a practical -and useful form of memorial. As this is the only medieval pulpit the -county has left, it seems likely that its preservation is due to the -inscription it bears. - -When Neasham Abbey, in the north of Yorkshire, fell into ruin, two of -its effigies were moved over the Tees to the church at Hurworth. One of -them was a remarkably fine figure of a knight in armour, his head -covered with a coat of mail, his body clad in a shirt of mail, over -which there is a surcoat. His shield has "barry of eight, three -chaplets of roses." The armour is of the style in use in the early part -of the fourteenth century, and the effigy probably represents the Robert -FitzWilliam who was Warden of the Marches in the time of the just King -Edward I., and who died in 1316. - -In Lanchester Church, under an arch in the wall of the south aisle, lies -a recumbent effigy of a canon secular, his raised hands clasping a -chalice. This is believed to represent Stephen Austell, Dean of -Lanchester, who died in 1464. In Monkwearmouth Church, under a canopy -which bears the shields of the Hiltons and Viponds, there is a very -interesting effigy of a knight in plate armour of the early part of the -fifteenth century. This is probably the Baron William Hilton, who built -Hilton Castle on the Wear, with its wonderful armorial front. He died in -1435. At Norton, near Stockton, there is a magnificent effigy of a -knight in chain armour; over the head there is a rich canopy of -tabernacle-work; the hands are raised and the legs are crossed, the feet -resting on a lion. It is sometimes assumed that this representation of a -knight with his legs crossed one over the other indicates that the -person portrayed was a Crusader, but there are many cases where the -attitude is used in which it is known that the effigy was that of one -who could not have taken any part in those Holy Wars. This monument is -further noticeable as it is one of the very few which give us even a -slight hint as to the personality of the sculptor; it bears what is -believed to be his mark in the shape of a small squiggle, which looks -like a short length of chain, in front of which is the letter "I," and -it is supposed that this punning rebus means that the effigy is the -handiwork of one John Cheyne. It would be very interesting to know who -commissioned Cheyne to carve this monument, for another curious feature -in it is that the shield of the knight bears six coats of -arms--Blakeston, Surtees, Bowes, Dalden, Conyers, and Conyers--which -mean that the knight was a Blakeston of Blakeston. But the Blakestons -bore these arms in the sixteenth century, probably not later than the -year 1587, whereas the armour of the effigy is of the time of Edward I., -1272-1307. Boyle suggests that probably the monument is to one of the De -Parks, and that a Blakeston took it, scraped off the De Park arms, and -put on his own coat. Whatever its vicissitudes may have been, it remains -a noble piece of work. - -In Redmarshall Church, in the Claxton Porch, there are effigies of -Thomas Langton de Wynyard and of Sibil Langton, his wife. They are -admirably carved in a rather soft alabaster, and the delicacy and -clearness of detail in the costumes is very remarkable. The lady’s hair -is dressed in the extraordinary horns which were fashionable in the days -of Henry V. She wears a long, loose kirtle, with a surcoat and mantle; -round her neck is a string of pearls, and round her waist is a jewelled -belt. The knight wears a suit of plate armour, probably of Italian make, -the fashion of which suggests that the effigy was carved several years -after the death of Thomas de Langton in 1440. - -Effigies of men who had devoted themselves to a religious life, but who -died before attaining the order of priesthood, are very rare. There is -one of a deacon within the altar-rails of Ryton Church, carved in green -marble from Stanhope. - -Whitburn Church holds a singular effigy of comparatively late date. -Attired in the full stiff dress of the time of William and Mary lies a -plump, elderly gentleman. He wears a full periwig, a neckcloth with -square ends, a coat with large buckramed skirts and wide sleeves, rolled -breeches, and square-toed laced shoes ornamented with immense bows of -ribbon. His head rests on a pillow, and his right hand holds a book, -which is open at the text, "I shall not lye here, but rise." There is a -skull between the feet. On the uprights of the tomb the same figure is -carved in bas-relief, kneeling, and on each side of him is a lady in -the dress of the same period. A tablet on the wall states that this is -"the burial-place of Mr. Michael Mathew of Cleadon, and his wife, who -had issue three sons and two daughters, of which only Hannah survives." - -BRASSES.--In many of the older churches of the county there are -remaining the stone matrices which formerly held monumental brasses, but -in most cases the brasses themselves have disappeared, the sanctity of a -church, and the contiguity of a Table of the Ten Commandments not having -prevailed against the temptation to steal a substance so portable and so -readily saleable as brass. - -In the floor of the chapel at Greatham Hospital there is a large slab of -stone, 90 by 43 inches in size, with an inscription in brass Lombardic -letters round the edge commemorating William de Middleton, a master of -the Hospital in 1312. On the wall is another inscription, in raised -black-letter with chasing, asking for prayers for the souls of Nicholas -Hulme, who was master in 1427, of John Kelyng, 1463, and of William -Estfelde, who died in 1497. - -At Sherburn Hospital there is a small brass let into the chancel steps, -which reads: "THOMAS . LEAVER . PREACHER . TO KING EDWARD . THE . SIXTE. -HE . DIED . iN . iVLY . i577." - -In the church at St. Andrew’s Auckland there is a finely cut brass with -the figure of a priest, of which the head is, unfortunately, missing. -There is no inscription, but the date of it is probably about 1400. In -the same church there is a unique brass, small in size, but about ½ inch -thick; it bears a small Greek cross with a backing of plant decoration, -and it has three lines of inscription across the plate and a legend -round the margin. It is dated April 8, 1581, and was put up to the -memory of Mrs. Fridesmond Barnes, who was the wife of the second -Protestant Bishop of Durham, Richard Barnes. We know the cost of this -brass, for in the Bishop’s accounts there is the entry, "To the -gould-smyth at Yorke for a plate to sett over Mrs. Barnes, 32ˢ." - -At St. Helen’s Auckland there is a brass which portrays the figure of a -man in a long tunic edged with fur; his wife lies by his side, and below -are figures of his sons and daughters. The inscription is lost, but the -date of it is probably about 1460. - -In Sedgefield Church there is a curious brass giving the crest of -William Hoton, 1445, with a black-letter inscription below: "<f>Hic iacet -will[=m]s Hoton . qui . obijt . xviº die Septebr’ Anno . dni . Mill[=m]o . -ECCCº . xlvº . cui’ aie ppicietur de’ ame’</f>." In the same church there are -two of the objectionable brasses which were not uncommon in the -fifteenth century, which portrayed skeletons in shrouds. - -Chester-le-Street Church has a very pleasing brass, giving the -full-length figure of a woman attired in the costume of the first half -of the fifteenth century. The lines of the composition are simple and -bold, and the effect is very graceful. The brass has no inscription, but -it is known that it was put up to the memory of Alice Salcock of Salcock -in Yorkshire, who married William Lambton, and who died in 1434. - -At Dinsdale, on the southern margin of the county, close to the River -Tees, there is in the church a late, small, but beautifully worked -brass, only about 11 inches by 8 inches in size. It bears the coat of -arms of eight quarterings, and records the merciful benefactions to the -poor of the parish of Dinsdale of Mary, the wife of Thomas Spennithorne. -She died in 1668, and was buried at Spennithorne. - -In the magnificent cathedral of Durham most of the sepulchral monuments -were destroyed either at the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the reign -of Henry VIII., or when the cathedral church was used as a prison for -Scotch prisoners of war after the Battle of Dunbar in 1650. In 1671 -Davies wrote his book on _The Rites and Monuments of the Church of -Durham_, with the motto _Tempora mutantur_--on the title-page, giving a -sad description of the past glories of the church. "Lodovic de bello -Monte, Bishop of Durham," he says, "lieth buried before the high Altar -in the Quire, under a most curious and sumptuous Marble stone, which he -prepar’d for himself, before he died, being adorned with most excellent -workmanship of Brass, wherein he was most excellently and lively -Pictur’d, as he was accustomed to sing, or say Mass." This Bishop de -bello Monte, or Beaumont, died at Brantingham, near Hull, in 1333. His -gravestone, which was said to be the largest in England, still lies -before the high-altar in Durham Cathedral, but the "most excellent -workmanship of Brass" has utterly disappeared. - -In Hartlepool Church there is a brass with the figure of a lady in a -large hat, with ruff and farthingale; on another brass below it is the -inscription: - - HERE VNDER THiS STONE LYETH BVRiED THE BODiE OF THE - VERTVOUS GENTELLWOMAN IANE BELL, WHO DEPTED THiS LYFE THE - . vi. DAYE OF IANVARIE 1593 BEiNGE THE DOWGHTER OF LAVERANCE - THORNELL OF DARLINGTON GENT & LATE WYFE TO PARSAVAL - BELL, NOWE MAiRE OF THIS TOWEN OF HARTiNPOOELL. MARCHANT - - whos vertues if thou wilt beholde - peruse this tabel hanginge bye - which will the same to thee vnfold - by her good lyfe learne thou to die. - -In Haughton-le-Skerne Church there is a curious figure on a brass, -representing a lady, who holds a baby on each arm. She was Dorothy, the -wife of Robert Perkinson of Whessey, and she died, with her twin sons, -in 1592. - -At Houghton-le-Spring there is a brass to the memory of Margery, wife of -Richard Bellasis. It pictures the kneeling figure of a woman with her -eight sons and three daughters behind her. The Bellasis coat of arms is -on the brass: the date is 1587. - -In Sedgefield Church there is a rudely engraved, early brass, probably -cut about the year 1300. It shows a small female figure, kneeling, and -it has a coat of arms on both sides of the figure. From the shape of -the two coats of arms, and from the conventional treatment of the -features of the face, which is more carefully executed than the rest of -the figure, it is believed that this is one of the oldest sepulchral -brasses now remaining in England. - -The tombstone to Dean Rudde, which lies in the floor of the chancel of -Sedgefield Church, still carries its inscribed brass. The stone is a -very large one. The black-letter epitaph is so much worn by the tread of -the feet of many generations that it can only be read with some -uncertainty. It seems to run: - - <f>Orate p aīa [=m]ri Jo[=h]is Rudde in decretis baccalarii quond[=m] - decani hui’ loci qui obiit xxix die decēbr’ Anno d[=n]i Mº CCCCº - lxxxx cui’ āīē ppiciet de’ amen.</f> - -This John Rudde gave to the church of Esh the only medieval service-book -belonging to any church in the diocese of Durham which is now known to -exist. It is in the library of the Roman Catholic College of Ushaw, near -Durham. - -The beautiful memorials to the dead which were known as grave-covers -were used in England and Ireland from the ninth to the sixteenth -century. Though they are abundant in the county, Durham cannot boast of -the possession of specimens equal in merit to those found in some -other parts of England. At Sedgefield Church there is a fine -thirteenth-century grave-cover with a double, eight-rayed cross; it has -the rare feature of a double row of dog-tooth ornament at the head; and -it is the only stone known in the county which has the whole surface -covered with a tracery of foliage. It is, unfortunately, much weathered. -Built into the tower of the same church, and only partly visible, is -another richly ornamented cover, dating probably from the middle of the -fourteenth century, the foliated ornament being more naturally shown, or -less conventionalized, than in earlier examples. It bears a sword and a -cross moline on a small shield. - -The symbolism used on grave-covers is not well understood. A key is said -to indicate a woman, a sword a man; shears sometimes represent a woman, -sometimes a wool-stapler; a chalice or a book, or both, are placed on -the gravestone of a priest or other ecclesiastic. Craftsmen are often -indicated by some sign of their business, as a square for a mason, a -horseshoe or a hammer for a smith. Sometimes a merchant uses his -trade-mark much as an armigerous person uses his coat of arms. Built -into the south porch of St. Mary’s Church in Gateshead there are two -large grave-covers bearing incised crosses. One of them, a -fourteenth-century slab, has at one side of the stem of the cross a key, -and at the other side a fish. Most authorities think that the fish is -the mystic symbol of our Saviour, which was so dear to the early -Christians, and which is frequently found on the gravestones in the -catacombs at Rome; but other antiquaries consider that the stone is to -be more literally interpreted, and that it covered the remains of a -fish-wife. - -The earlier grave-covers were stone lids for stone coffins, but after -the use of stone coffins was discontinued, and wooden coffins were -substituted, the remains of the dead were often covered by these carved -stone slabs. The larger part of them are uninscribed, but grave-covers -with a few lines cut on them are by no means uncommon. At Gainford there -is a perfect grave-cover of the fourteenth century which bears a chalice -and three floreated crosses, one large and two small. It has been -suggested that these prove this to have been the burial-place of an -ecclesiastic and two children, for burial in a monk’s frock or in the -grave of a priest was long considered by all classes of people to be -desirable. This stone, though it is of early fourteenth-century period, -bears an inscription to Laurence Brockett, Regius Professor of Modern -History at Cambridge, who died in 1768. His executors seem to have -thought that an old gravestone was just as good as a new one. - -Of quaint sepulchral inscriptions there are many in the county. The one -in Monkwearmouth Church to the memory of a Mrs. Lee is on a small marble -tablet on the vestry wall. It reads: - - HEERE VNDER LYETH Yᴱ BODDYE OF MARY LEE - DAVGHTER TO PETER DELAVALE LATE OF - TINMOVTH GENT SHEE DIED IN CHYLDBED - YE 23 OF MAY 1617 - HAPIE IS Yᵀ SOVLE Yᵀ HEERE - ON EARTH DID LIVE A HARMLESS LYFE - & HAPPIE MAYD Yᵀ MADE - SOE CHAST AN HONNEST WIFE. - -It is strange that a lawyer "of ability and integrity" should not be -able to make himself a sound will. In Greatham Chapel there is an -inscription: "In memory of Ralph Bradley, Esq. an eminent Councillor at -Law, born in this parish, who bequeathed a large fortune, acquired in a -great measure by his abilities and integrity, to the purchasing of books -calculated to promote the interests of virtue and religion, and the -happiness of mankind. He died the 28th day of December 1788, in the 72d -year of his age...." Below, on a copper plate, is: "By a decree of -Edward Lord Thurlow, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, on the 2ᵈ -day of August 1791, the charitable intention mentioned above was set -aside in favour of the next of kin." - -In Stockton Church we may read that on "Wednesday the 19th of May 1773 -was here interred the body of Mrs. Sarah Baker ... aged 59. Do thou -reflect in time; death itself is nothing, but prepare to be you know not -what, to go you know not where." - -At Houghton-le-Spring stands the massy altar-tomb of the great Bernard -Gilpin, "the apostle of the North," that sweet-natured, fearless, and -humble-minded man who so narrowly escaped a martyr’s death at the stake. -The tomb bears his coat of arms and the following: - -BERNERD OBIT QVA -GILPIN RE [A bear with a crescent on its side, RTV DIE M -CTOR HV leaning against a tree.] ARTII AN. -IVS ECCLIÆ DOM. 1583. - - See here his Dust shut up whose Generous mind - No stop before in Honours path could find. - Truth Faith and Justice, and a Loyall Heart - In him Showd Nature, which in most is Art. - -In the same church of Houghton-le-Spring there is the following epitaph: -"Here Lyes interr’d the Body of Nicolas Conyers Esqʳ. High Sheriff of -this County Chiefe of yᵉ Family of Conyers of the House of Boulby in -Yorkshire. He dyed at South Biddick Mar: 27 A.D. 1689 his age 57." Below -is his crest. - -At Houghton Hall Robert Hutton, a zealous Puritan and a Captain in -Cromwell’s army, was buried in his own orchard, where his altar-tomb is -inscribed: "HIC JACET ROBERTVS HVTTON ARMIGER QVI OBIIT AVG. DIE NONO -1681 ET MORIENDO VIVIT." - -In the Galilee Chapel at the west end of Durham Cathedral there is a -stone on the floor inscribed: - - JOHN BRIMLEIS BODY HERE DOTH LY, - WHO PRAY SED GOD WITH HAND AND VOICE; - BY MUSICKES HEAVENLY HARMONIE - DULL MINDS HE MAID IN GOD REJOICE. - HIS SOUL INTO THE HEAVENS IS LYFT - TO PRAISE HIM STILL THAT GAVE THE GYFT. - -This Brimley was master of the Song School at Durham Cathedral. - -That mighty builder, Hugh Pudsey, who was Bishop of Durham from 1153 to -1195, seems to have had a fellow-worker who pleased him in the person of -Christian the Mason, whose grave-cover is at Pittington. One wonders -whether it was after Christian had built for the Bishop the stout -fortifications of Durham Castle, or whether it was when he had finished -the beautiful Galilee Chapel of the cathedral, that Pudsey gave him, as -we know he did, forty acres in the moor at South Sherburn, besides other -lands, "quit of all rent whilst he should remain in the service of the -bishop." Pudsey’s own tomb in Durham Cathedral is broken and dispoiled, -but Christian the Mason’s grave-cover at Pittington can still be read: - - ✠NOMEN ABENS CRISTI TVMVLO TVMVLATVR IN ISTO - ✠QVI TVMVLVM CERNIT COMMENDET CVM PRECE CRISTO, - -which may be interpreted: "One having the name of Christ is buried here. -Let him who beholds the grave commend himself with prayer to Christ." - -In the churchyard of St. Hild’s at Hartlepool, about 6 feet from the -east wall of the modern chancel, there is an old altar-tomb covered with -a very large slab of bluish stone. If it has ever been inscribed the -lettering is now utterly weathered off, but it has the lion of Bruce on -the uprights at the sides still faintly visible. This is the -resting-place of the fathers of Robert Bruce. They owned Hart and -Hartlepool for many generations before Robert Bruce claimed the crown of -Scotland in 1306. His lands in the county of Durham were then seized and -given to the Cliffords. In Easington Church there is an effigy of a lady -in thirteenth-century costume, which probably represents Isabella, first -wife of John Fitz-Marmaduke. She was the daughter of Robert de Brus of -Skelton, and the sister of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland. - -Coming last to the ordinary inscriptions on the tombstones and -headstones of our churchyards, one of the first things that strikes an -observer is the large number of cases where, though the stone remains, -the inscription is wholly or partly weathered off and lost; such cases -are an occasion of woe to the genealogist. In looking through a country -churchyard it will often be found that 10 per cent. of the stones are -unreadable. This is generally because a soft and unsuitable stone has -been used. Some slate-stones stand well; limestones and marbles only -last while they are in a church, rain and slight traces of acid in the -atmosphere soon disintegrate them out of doors. Granite will probably -endure very long, but it has been little used in Durham churchyards, and -only since about 1860. Sandstones are most generally used, and some of -these, of a close-grain and of a dark colour when old, stand exceedingly -well. The fell sandstones, or hassells, used in the west of the county, -are almost as hard as granite. They are very difficult to cut, so the -lettering on them is often quite shallow; but stones 200 years old are -quite unaffected by weather. Soft sandstones, which are easily cut, -either crumble and decay gradually, or in some cases they scale off in -flakes and perish very quickly. It is common to see two stones of about -the same date, standing side by side, one of which is sound and clear, -while the other cannot be read. Frequently one finds a stone where, -owing to differences of hardness, one part of the inscription is sharp -and legible, while other parts are completely gone. - -Along the parishes on the coast of the county the wanderer cannot fail -to be struck with the constant repetition of the words, "Lost at sea," -and if he should turn to the registers of these parishes and read the -many entries like, "A woman at ye sea side found drowned," "A man cast -upon our sands by the sea," "Foure Duchmen wth a woman and a childe -being drowned by shipwrack were buried in this Churchyard," he will -learn what a heavy tithe the sea takes from the land, and how high is -the price that man pays for the sovereignty of the sea. - -Punning epitaphs are, fortunately, not numerous in the county. Here is -one, from Stockton, to the memory of two masons, "Ralph Wood, who -departed this life Oct. 22, 1730, in the 67th year of his age. Here -lieth the Body of Ralph Wood, aged 67, 1743. - - "We that have made tombs for others, - Now here we lie; - Once we were two flourishing Woods, - But now we die." - - - - -THE CASTLES AND HALLS OF DURHAM - -BY HENRY R. LEIGHTON - - -Although the county of Durham is not studded with castles and peels like -its northern neighbour, nor decked with many ancient homes in a still -picturesque and habitable condition, like the moors and valleys of York, -it is still fairly rich in buildings of historic and antiquarian -interest. - -The banks of the Wear alone, if followed from the source to the mouth, -may be compared to some miniature Rhine in picturesqueness. The -mountainous scenery of Weardale, and the frequent woods and plantations -that ornament the banks of its lower reaches, the castles of Stanhope, -Witton, Auckland, Brancepeth, Durham, Lumley, Lambton, and Hilton, -rising in a stately succession, to say nothing of the glorious old -cathedral, the monastic ruins of Finchale, and the grey old tower of -Wearmouth, make a panorama unrivalled in its way. It may, however, be -remarked in all fairness that almost every English stream can tell a -similar story, and for a vision, in homely and familiar buildings, of a -glorious past our England stands unrivalled. - -The first-named of the above mansions, Stanhope Castle, stands upon the -site of a fortified house existing in the time of Bishop Anthony Bek. -The present building is, however, a Georgian structure erected about a -century ago by Cuthbert Rippon, M.P. for Gateshead. The old home of - -[Illustration: WITTON CASTLE IN 1779.] - -the Fetherstonhaughs, so long associated with this district, Stanhope -Hall, is an Elizabethan mansion with several panelled rooms, and is now -divided amongst a number of tenants. - -Witton Castle, erected by the great baronial house of Eure, stands on -the south side of the river, not very far from Witton-le-Wear. It was -erected somewhere about 1410, for in that year Bishop Langley granted a -pardon to Sir Ralph Eure for having commenced to embattle his -manor-house at Witton. It originally consisted of a square bailey, -surrounded by an outer wall, with a projecting keep on the north side. - -The keep has been considerably altered at various periods. It is oblong -in shape, with corner turrets rising above the roof. The basement -consists of one barrel-vaulted apartment, with adjoining chambers in the -north-west, south-west, and south-east turrets; the entrances to two of -these were originally fastened on the outer side. The first floor is the -great hall, and has doorways leading into chambers in the turrets. -Another door in the north-east corner leads to a newel staircase -ascending to the battlements. The room immediately over the east end of -the great hall has a doorway opening into a small mural chamber, -originally a latrine, in the north-east turret. This floor has a passage -in the thickness of the west wall. The parapets are reached by the -staircase already referred to. The turrets at the north-east and -south-east corners project like angle buttresses, and the latter has two -figures in armour, similar to those at Hilton Castle, standing on the -parapet. The north-west turret is larger, and its sides are parallel -with the walls of the keep. The south-west turret is still larger, and -it projects beyond the south front, having its west wall continued in -line with that of the main building. All the turrets have crenellated -parapets. The eastern turrets have their alternate sides machicolated on -double corbels. - -The outer wall has two gateways, one on the east, and the other on the -west side, leading into the courtyard. Both are defended by machicolated -galleries above, the parapet being carried outwards on double corbels. -The whole wall is defended by a broad battlement with a high parapet -round the top. There are embrasures at intervals, each originally -defended by movable shutters; a round socket on one side, and a slot on -the other, remain to show where the pivots moved. A number of round -holes in the walls were intended to support woodwork on which platforms -could be erected, thus enabling the garrison to strike at attackers -below. - -Each angle of this outer or curtain wall was originally strengthened by -a bartizan. Three of these were circular, but one, that at the -north-west corner, was pulled down in the early days of last century. -The fourth bartizan, that at the south-west corner of the wall, is -almost square in shape, with the outer walls projecting and resting on -corbels. It contains a guardroom, with a fireplace, and two doors -opening on to the adjoining battlements. The south-east bartizan also -contains a room, circular in shape, with a loopholed wall. About a -century ago the castle was unfortunately damaged by fire. It was -afterwards restored by Mr. J. T. H. Hopper, the owner. - -Tracing the river eastwards, the ancient home and palace of the Bishops -and Lords Palatine stands close to the river and to the east of Auckland -town. - -Robert de Graystanes, one of the early chroniclers, states that Bishop -Anthony Bek erected the manor-house at Auckland, but from several -entries in the Boldon Book it is evident that the Bishops had a -residence there at the time that record was drawn up. - -The existing buildings are extensive, and are approached from the -market-place through a castellated gateway. One of the most prominent -and interesting features is the chapel, which was originally the great -hall. It was adapted for its present purpose and consecrated by Bishop -Cosin. Prior to the great Civil War, there were two chapels, variously -referred to, and as early as 1338, as the major and the minor. One of -these was over the other, and they stood to the south of the castle -proper, near to a postern which opened on to a road outside the park. -When for a while the Episcopal Church was abolished by a Puritan -Government, and the old story of spiteful spoliation began, Auckland -Palace was sold to Sir Arthur Heslerigg for £6,102 8s. 11½d. This -redoubtable worthy appears to have dismantled a considerable portion of -the buildings. He blew up the chapels,[11] and commenced to alter the -place to suit his own ideas. - -It seems probable that Sir Arthur left his projected buildings in an -unfinished state, for when Bishop Cosin came to his diocese at the -Restoration, he wrote that the castle "had been pul’d down and ruined." -The Bishop commenced an extensive restoration, and a number of -interesting letters and agreements have been preserved showing the -progress made. - -As it now stands, the chapel is divided into nave and aisles by arcades, -each of four bays. The supporting pillars are clearly those described by -Leland, who, speaking of the great hall, says: "There be divers pillars -of black marble speckled with white." Each pillar consists of four -clustered cylindrical shafts, two being of Weardale marble, and two of -freestone. The four pillars nearest the west are banded half-way up, and -the capitals of the two western pillars are carved with foliage, the -north-western showing also the spiral scroll or volute. The capitals of -the other pillars and the bases of all are moulded, the latter resting -on square plinths. - -The arches are richly moulded, and have labels terminating in carved -ornaments. They rest at the east end on responds of three clustered -shafts, two of marble, and one of freestone, with moulded capitals and -bases. At the west end the arches rest on highly ornamental corbels. -Each of the latter consists in its lower portion of two carved heads, -the northernmost being of Bishops wearing mitres, and the southern of -crowned Kings. From within the mitres and crowns rise dwarfed shafts -with Late Transitional foliage carved on the bells. Each capital is -surmounted with a square moulded abacus, on which rest the bases of a -triplet of dwarfed, clustered shafts corresponding to those in the piers -of the arcades. In the spandrels between the arches, on both sides, are -carved corbels; those on the inner side carry single cylindrical shafts -surmounted by moulded capitals, and originally carried the pendant posts -of the roof. The outer corbels supported the rafters of the aisle roofs. -There is now but little doubt that this portion of the building was -erected by Bishop Pudsey. - -Bishop Hatfield made further improvements, inserting the windows still -existing. At a much later period, as already mentioned, Bishop Cosin -altered and restored the castle, which he appears to have made his -favourite residence. He certainly took great delight and pride in -improving his country home. Most of the fine woodwork in the chapel is -his work--the roof, mouldings, and the great screen at the west end -being particularly noteworthy. - -Since his time the chapel has been but little altered. Bishop Van -Mildert refloored it, and Bishop Lightfoot erected a new reredos, and -filled most of the windows with stained glass. - -The other portions of the castle have been considerably modernized, and -bear but little resemblance to Pennant’s picture of it. The room which -he describes as "below stairs," and having painted on the old wainscot -"the arms of a strange assemblage of potentates, from Queen Elizabeth, -with all the European princes, to the Emperors of Abissinia, -Bildelgerid, Carthage, and Tartaria, sixteen peers of the same reign, -knights of the garter, and above - -[Illustration: LUMLEY CASTLE.] - -them the arms of every bishoprick in England," is now used as the -housekeeper’s storeroom. - -The wing containing the servants’ hall (on the ceiling of which is a -plaster shield of Bishop Tunstall’s arms) and the dining-room was -commenced by Bishop Ruthall, and completed by the former prelate. The -arms of both Bishops appear on the exterior of the building. Adjoining -this wing to the west is another of some length, still known by the -curious name of _Scotland_, and undoubtedly erected by Tunstall. No very -satisfactory reason has been offered for the derivation of its name. - -Brancepeth Castle stands within a mile from the River Wear, a little to -the south of the village of the same name. There was undoubtedly a -castle there in the twelfth century, towards the end of which it passed, -by the marriage of Emma, widow of Peter de Valoignes, and only child of -Bertram de Bulmer, to Geoffrey de Neville, from the former to the latter -family. - -The present castle is stated by Leland to have been erected by Ralph, -first Earl of Westmorland. It was defended north and east by a moat; -south and west the walls rise from a rock nearly forty feet in height. -The original gateway, defended by a portcullis and flanked by square -towers, stood on the site of the present gate, and was approached from -the north. It has been destroyed. It opened directly into the courtyard, -south-west of which are the residential parts of the castle. - -There were, when Hutchinson wrote, four towers, closely conjoined. Three -of these remain, containing respectively the dining-room, saloon, and -the baron’s hall. The destroyed tower stood north of the last mentioned, -but was not so high. It contained three stories, and was probably, as -Mr. Boyle has suggested, the great hall. - -The projecting angles of the towers are surmounted by small turrets, -eight in number, the arrangement consisting of two sides rising directly -from the sides of the buttresses on which they are built, whilst the -other two are machicolated, the parapets resting on corbels. - -Two other towers now standing at either end of the billiard-room are -respectively used as the chapel and the library. The castle possesses a -number of other interesting features. - -Amongst the pictures is one by Hogarth, painted for the first Viscount -Boyne, and representing several members of the _Hell-fire Club_. They -are supposed to have assembled in a wine-cellar, and resolved not to -part until its contents have been consumed. Sir Philip Hoby is depicted -sitting on a cask of claret. Immediately behind him, with his hand held -up, is Mr. De Grey, and below him is Lord John Cavendish, who has drawn -a spigot from the cask to let the wine flow into a bowl. Lord Sandwich -is kneeling down, holding a bottle to his mouth. Lord Galway lies -extended on a form, in such a position that the liquor from a cask above -him is flowing into his mouth. The arrangement of the four central -figures is a clever imitation of a statue of _Charity_ shown in the -cellar. - -There is some fine armour in the present and modern great hall, amongst -others a suit richly inlaid in gold, and traditionally said to have been -taken from the Scottish King after the Battle of Neville’s Cross, -although really it is of Elizabethan date. - -The existing castle in Durham City, long the principal seat of the -Episcopal Princes, largely helps, with its frowning walls and grim -battlements, standing side by side with the cathedral, to make Durham -one of the most picturesque cities in this country. - -The castle is approached from the north-west corner of the Palace Green, -a short avenue leading to the gateway, which was modernized by Bishop -Barrington. The iron-bound gates were placed there by Bishop Tunstall, -and one of them contains a wicket which is the subject of one of -Spearman’s amusing anecdotes. He states that Bishop Crewe had been -pressing Dr. Grey, Rector of Bishopwearmouth, and Dr. Morton, Rector of -Boldon, to read King James’s declaration for a dispensing power in their -parish churches. Both declined and began to argue against it, when the -Bishop appears to have lost his temper. He told Dr. Grey that his age -made him dote, and that he had forgotten his learning. "The good old -Doctor briskly replied he had forgott more learning than his Lordship -ever had. ‘Well,’ said the Bishop, ‘I’ll forgive and reverence you, but -cannot pardon that blockhead Morton, whom I raised from nothing.’ They -thereupon took their leave of the Bishop, who with great civility waited -upon them towards the gate, and ye porter opening ye wikett or posterne -only, ye Bishop said, ‘Sirrah, why don’t you open ye great gates?’ ‘No,’ -says ye Reverend Dr. Grey, ‘my Lord, wee’le leave _ye broad way_ to your -lordship, _ye strait way_ will serve us.’" - -The gateway leads directly into the courtyard. A door and flight of -steps in the wall to the left leads into the Fellows’ Garden, formerly -the private garden of the Bishops, through which they could enter Bishop -Cosin’s library. - -Crossing the court to the left, the first building approached is partly -of early Norman date, with additions by Bishop Fox, and a later -restoration by Bishop Cosin, whose arms, impaling the see, are upon the -front. It is now used entirely as students’ quarters. - -A portico farther along the court leads into the great hall, erected by -Bishop Anthony Bek. The hall measures 101 feet long by 35 feet wide, and -was restored somewhere about 1850. - -The window at the north end was filled with stained glass in 1882 to -commemorate the jubilee of the University. - -The walls are hung with paintings, and include: - -1. A collection of thirteen portraits of English Archbishops and -Bishops, said to have been made by Bishop Cosin. - -2. Ten pictures of the Apostles, which were taken at St. Mary’s, in -Spain, in the expedition under the Duke of Ormond, and purchased by the -Dean and Chapter in 1753. - -3. A number of portraits of prebendaries and professors. - -4. Portraits of Charles I., Bishop Cosin, and Charles II. - -On the same wall as the last-mentioned portraits the banners of the -Durham local volunteer companies, raised to defend the country at the -time of Napoleon’s threatened invasion, are suspended. - -A door at the north end of the hall leads to Bishop Cosin’s great -staircase, which is most handsomely carved. - -At the foot of the staircase a corridor, the woodwork of which -originally formed part of the same Bishop’s choir screen in the -cathedral, may be entered. - -The staircase itself, however, leads more directly to Bishop Tunstall’s -Gallery, and to several apartments, from one of which a door opens upon -the terrace on the north side of the castle. - -Tunstall’s Gallery contains several objects of interest, and the walls -are covered with sixteenth-century tapestry. - -Here also is the magnificent Norman doorway erected by Bishop Pudsey as -the entrance to his lower hall. From its position and the weathering of -the stonework, it is supposed to have originally been approached by a -stairway from the court; the case at the top must have been roofed with -open arcades at the sides. - -The present Senate-room of the University contains some good tapestry, -illustrating the life of Moses, and dating from the sixteenth century. -This room also contains a handsome carved fireplace, armorially -decorated, and evidently the work of Bishop James. In the centre are the -Royal Arms, Garter, and Motto. On either side are the arms of the -Palatinate impaling the Bishop’s dolphin and cross-crosslets, with the -James’s motto, "Dei Gratia Sum quod Sum." - -[Illustration: HILTON CASTLE WEST FRONT.] - -The adjoining anteroom contains several paintings, including portraits -of King James II. and his Queen, Mary of Modena. - -Leaving the county town behind, the picturesque outlines of Lumley -Castle may be seen for some miles from the train journeying to -Newcastle. It is situated about a mile from Chester-le-Street, but on -the opposite bank of the Wear. The place is first mentioned by Styr, the -son of Ulf, in a list of gifts made to St. Cuthbert. - -The castle is supposed to have been erected by Sir Ralph Lumley, who -obtained licences from Richard II. and Bishop Skirlaw to embattle his -house of Lumley. It is in arrangement a square courtyard, surrounded by -a quadrangle. Two of the fronts, the south and north, measure 65 yards 1 -foot in length, the other two 58 yards and 1 foot. Oblong towers, of -greater height than the main portions of each front, from which they -project, strengthen and guard each corner. The most exterior angle of -each tower is capped by a buttress. - -The west front is the oldest existing portion of the castle, and is -supposed to have been the Lumley manor-house, before Sir Ralph extended -and added to it. - -Originally the east side of it, that looking into the courtyard, was the -principal front, and in its centre the gateway, flanked by -semi-octagonal turrets, may still be seen. The front of the gateway is -formed of two arches, the outer segmental headed, and the inner one -pointed. Between these is the groove wherein the portcullis ran. The -arch leads to a vaulted passage which entered the original courtyard. On -the north side of the passage is a pointed doorway, leading into a -narrow corridor, having a latrine at its east end, and connected -originally with the gatekeeper’s room. - -The present gateway is in the centre of the east front, and has -incorporated with it an earlier round-headed archway, with -semi-octagonal jambs and moulded imposts. On either side of it is a -square turret, surmounted by octagonal machicolated parapets, the -alternate sides of which are embrasured. - -The turrets are joined by a machicolated gallery, defended by a -battlemented parapet. Above the door are six sculptured coats of arms. -Between the two highest, Neville and Percy, is the royal coat of Richard -II. Below is the Lumley coat, having on the sinister side the arms of -Grey, and on the dexter the coat of Hilton. The shields are all -surmounted by the respective family crests. - -A room on the south side of the gateway contains in its centre a flag, -which on being raised leaves open the entrance to a vaulted chamber -about 10 feet square and some 16 feet deep. From the existence of a -latrine, and a little ventilation from a small unglazed loophole looking -into the courtyard, it seems to have been intended as a safe place for -the custody of prisoners. - -In the north-east tower are two rooms, divided by a modern partition, -and showing evidence that they originally formed the private chapel of -the family. The south-east tower contains on its second floor the state -bedroom, in which King James I. is said to have slept when he visited -Lumley. - -In the north-west tower is the famous kitchen, which Howitt described as -"one of the most stupendous, lofty, and every way remarkable kitchens in -the kingdom." The south-west tower contains the banqueting-hall, -celebrated for its very fine stuccoed ceiling, part of the work -initiated by Richard, second Earl of Scarborough. - -Between the towers on the west side the main building forms the baron’s, -or great, hall, which probably remained unaltered from the time of Sir -Ralph to the early days of the century before last. The fireplace is the -work of John, Lord Lumley, and is decorated with the family arms, -impaling FitzAlan. Here also is a large equestrian statue, representing -Liulph, a traditional ancestor of the house. There are also a series of -interesting family portraits. - -Not far from Lumley, Lambton Castle stands on the northern and opposite -bank of the river. The original home of the Lambton family was, however, -on the same bank as Lumley. According to an old view, it was a double -house of stone, with flanking, gabled wings, and the grounds laid out in -parterres and terraces. It remained the residence of the family, until -it was dismantled in 1797 by William Henry Lambton, who had adopted -Harraton Hall as the family seat.[12] - -The present Lambton Castle[13] stands on the site and incorporates -portions of the original building of Harraton Hall, a manor-house -erected about the year 1600. Very considerable additions were made to -this hall by William Henry Lambton, grandfather of the late Lord Durham, -from designs by the elder Bonomi, in the Italian style. The first Lord -Durham also made considerable alterations and additions to the building -from plans furnished by Bonomi, the general appearance of the mansion -being entirely changed. The south front is in the Tudor style and -castellated, and the north is Norman. - -The great hall is panelled, and the windows are glazed with richly -stained glass, containing a representation of "Ye Legend of the Worme of -Lambton," and also the heraldic emblems of the family. The dimensions of -the hall are 94 feet by 36 feet, being larger than St. Stephen’s Hall, -Westminster. The principal staircase leading out of the hall, -communicating with the upper apartments, is 24 feet wide and 36 feet -high. East of the hall is the dining-room and west is the drawing-room, -abutting on the terraces of the west lawn. - -Owing to the subsidence of the hill on which the castle stands, through -some old colliery workings underneath falling in, the castle had become, -when the second Earl succeeded to the estates, insecure. To meet this, -and strengthen the foundations, the workings, two seams deep, round the -castle, to the extent of 4½ acres, were filled up with débris. Three -seams lower still were bricked up, over 10,000,000 bricks being used, -and in several instances in the fourth seam the brickwork exceeded 30 -feet in height. - -Hilton Castle, like Lambton, stands on the north bank of the River Wear, -on a gentle slope commanding an extensive view of the valley to the -west. - -The present building, a melancholy-looking tower, is only the gatehouse -of the original castle. It is first mentioned in the inquisition -post-mortem of William de Hilton in 1435, when it is described as "a -house constructed of stone, called the Yethouse." The intention of the -original builder, the William just mentioned, was evidently to erect an -extensive mansion on a similar scale, but there is sufficient evidence -to show that he never completed the work. - -That there were other buildings probably surrounding a courtyard is -proved by various inventories. In 1559, after the death of Sir Thomas -Hilton, an inventory of his effects mentions the great chamber, the -green chamber, the middle and new chambers, the gallery, the wardrobe, -the parlour, the chamber over the hall door, and various out-buildings, -such as the brewhouse, buttery, and the barns. The tower is mentioned -separately, and the term evidently applies to the existing building. - -These surrounding buildings were probably removed by John Hilton, who -early in the eighteenth century built - -[Illustration: OLD TOWER AT RAVENSWORTH CASTLE.] - -a large wing in the Italian style against the north end of the -gatehouse. This erection was three stories in height, having pedimented -windows in the two lower floors, and square-headed windows in the story -above. John Hilton also, to some extent, spoiled the ancient gatehouse -by inserting a number of similar pedimented windows in it. His son, the -last of the male line to own Hilton, and also named John, added a -similar south wing. Both these wings were castellated--at any rate, on -the east front. - -The castle passed by descent to the Musgraves, and afterwards by -successive sales to the Bowes and Briggs families, and again within the -last year or two to the Monkwearmouth Colliery Company. - -As it now stands, the tower presents a bold and picturesque outline. It -is divided, on the west front, into three bays by projecting, -square-shaped turrets. The main entrance is through the central bay, -over which is a fine array of heraldry. Immediately beneath the arcade, -the elaborately carved and projecting canopies of which fell in 1882, is -a banner and staff of the Royal Arms of France and England _temp._ Henry -V. Beneath the banner are the arms of Neville, Vesci, and Percy, and -amongst other coats represented are those of the families of Lumley, -Grey, Eure, Washington, Felton, Heron, Surtees, and Bowes. On the -right-hand turret, close to the entrance, beneath a canopy, is a large -banner of the Hilton arms. The east front shows a curious sculpture of -the family badge, _a roebuck collared and chained_. Below is the family -coat, accompanied with their curious crest--_the head of Moses, horned -with triple rays_. - -The battlements are exceedingly picturesque and decorated with numerous -statued figures, one of which apparently represents the slayer of the -Lambton Worm. - -The ancient family chapel stands in a semi-ruinous condition a little to -the north of the castle. - -Ravensworth Castle was erected towards the end of the thirteenth -century, and has belonged successively to the Fitz-Marmadukes, Lumleys, -Boyntons, Gascoignes, and Liddells. It originally consisted of four -towers, one standing at each angle of a courtyard and joined by curtain -walls. Two of these towers still stand and form part of the present -castle, which was erected shortly after 1808, from designs by Nash. It -may be added that the castle was formerly known as Ravenshelm, -Ravensworth being the name of the adjoining village. Not far from the -castle, and near to the road leading to the north entrance, is an old -cross commonly known as the "Butter Cross." It is stated that the -country people left their produce here for the citizens of Newcastle to -take when that city was infested by the plague in the sixteenth century. - -[Illustration: THE CROSS AT RAVENSWORTH.] - -A few miles to the west, Gibside, a seat of the Earl of Strathmore, -stands in an exceedingly picturesque position. A terrace at the back of -the house stands above a sheer descent to an exceedingly wild glen. The -older portions of the building were erected by Sir William Blakiston, -who had inherited the estate from his grandmother, an heiress of the -Marley family, in the reign of James I. Over the entrance are the Royal -Arms, and the arms of Blakiston and Marley quarterly with the initials -W. I. B. for Sir William and his wife Jane Lambton. There is also an -interesting sundial inscribed with the motto _Ut hora, sic vita_. The -old drawing-room has a large fireplace, with figures of Samson and -Hercules at either side, and above a further heraldic display of the -family alliances. - -There are four baronial mansions lying between the Wear and the Tees. - -Barnard Castle, once a residence of the princely house of Baliol, has -for long years been a ruin. - -Originally erected by Bernard de Baliol, son of Guy de Baliol, Lord of -Bailleul en Vimeu in Picardy, and founder also of Baynard’s Castle in -London, it passed on the attainder of his descendant John Baliol, -sometime King of Scotland, in 1296 to Bishop Bek. A few years later -Edward I. severed the Durham fees of Bruce and Baliol from the control -of the Palatinate and granted Barnard Castle to the Beauchamps. By -marriage the estate passed to the Nevilles, and by marriage again to the -Crown. Later it passed to the Vanes, who hold it still. The castle, -which was of some size and great strength, stands in a commanding -position above the River Tees. A great portion of the remaining -buildings dates from Norman times. One of the towers is still known as -the Brackenbury Tower, evidently deriving its name from the family of -the famous Constable of the Tower of London. The castle is also -associated with Richard III., whose badge of "the hog" occurs in one of -the rooms. - -Not far from Barnard, Streatlam Castle stands in a valley between that -town and Raby. It has remained the property of the descendants of the -owners in the twelfth century to this day, although it has passed by -marriage successively to the Traynes, Boweses, and Lyons. The existing -castle includes some portions of the structure erected by old Sir -William Bowes. This Sir William is stated on the death of his young wife -Jane, daughter of Lord Greystock, under the age of twenty, to have gone -to the wars in France, where for some years he was Chamberlain to the -Regent, the Duke of Bedford. Sometime about 1450 he pulled down the -older castle at Streatlam, and erected a new one from designs he had -brought from France. His arms are on the north front of the castle, -which has been altered frequently since his time. A good portion of it -was pulled down by William Blakiston Bowes, who died in 1721, leaving -his alterations incomplete. - -Raby Castle, one of the finest baronial piles in the North of England, -and for many centuries the great seat of the princely house of Neville, -would require, to deal with it in justice, more pages than a volume of -limited space can afford. A few of its leading features must, however, -be mentioned. Portions of the present building were erected by Ralph, -Lord Neville, one of the commanders at Neville’s Cross, who died in -1367. His son John carried on the work, and in 1378 obtained a licence -from Bishop Hatfield to embattle and crenellate his manor-house at Raby. -In aspect the castle consists of buildings forming a rough square, with -towers projecting from three of the corners, the whole enclosing a -courtyard. The four outer sides face the cardinal points. Some distance -from the main building, a wall 30 feet high with a deep moat on its -outer side entirely enclosed it. The main entrance is guarded by a large -tower thrown forward in a flanking position, rendering the approach -exceedingly difficult to an opposing force. This building is known as -Clifford’s Tower. At the south end of a curtain wall running southwards -stands the Watch Tower, which has, however, been considerably -modernized. Adjoining the great gatehouse, - -[Illustration: STREATLAM CASTLE.] - -which is the work of at least two builders, is the tower which Leland -says bears the name of Joan, wife of the first Earl of Westmorland. East -of Joan’s Tower is another stretch of curtain wall now containing the -drawing-rooms, and terminating at Bulmer’s Tower, an interesting -building in shape an irregular pentagon. On the upper story of this -tower is the badge of the builder, a large Old English <f>b</f>, doubtless like -the bull, their other badge, derived from the Bulmers. - -A block of modern buildings adjoining the Bulmer Tower adjoins a tower, -from which a corridor enters the great hall, 90 feet long and 35 feet -wide. Close to the hall is the kitchen, which has been preserved in all -its original quaintness. Over a passage leading from the east side of -the great hall is the chapel. A short curtain wall connects this portion -of the building with the Mount Raskelf Tower, evidently named after a -manor owned by the Nevilles in Yorkshire. It is rather curious to -observe that the Christian names Ralph and Henry, which occur so -frequently in old northern families, are the predominating names -respectively of the great houses of Neville and Percy. - -Walworth Castle, a large, picturesque old house, was erected by the -Jenisons in or about the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The north front, -flanked by two projecting wings, has a centre three stories high -terminating in a balustraded parapet. The south front has a circular -tower at each end. The windows were originally decorated with fine old -painted glass of heraldic design, which has been almost entirely -destroyed in modern times. Some fragments have, however, been gathered -together and are preserved in a window in the corridor. Here King James -I. was entertained and slept on his progress to the South in 1603. - -Inferior to the larger houses, there were in the county several -buildings of great strength coming under the same head as the -_peel-houses_ or _towers_ on the borders. - -One of these, now only represented by a few portions of the outer walls, -was Dalden Tower. The buildings appear to have formed a tower rather -longer than square, standing on a slight mound. The walls were of -rubble, 5 feet thick. In the east wall there is a square-headed niche, -surmounted by a pediment within an ogee-headed arch, the space within -which is filled with tracery. Two blank shields are upon a cornice over -the pediment. The niche seems to point to the room once adjoining having -been the private chapel. On the inner side of the curtain facing the -west wall there appears to have been a cell with a loophole. - -A more recent manor-house was built about the reign of James I., -adjoining the tower on the east, and portions of it are built into the -present farmhouse. For some generations it was a seat of the Royalist -family of Collingwood, and, at an earlier date, of a branch of the great -house of Bowes. It was a lady of this family, Maud, wife of Sir William -Bowes and heiress of Sir Robert Dalden, who possessed within the old -walls a curious library. In her will, made in 1420, she left to Matilda -Hilton _one Romaunce-boke_, to Dame Eleanor Washington _the boke with -the knotts_, to Elizabeth de Whitchester a book that is called -_Trystram_, and to her god-daughter Maud, daughter of the Baron of -Hilton, _one Romaunce boke is called the Gospells_. Surtees pertinently -writes: "Did a romance ever actually exist under this strange title? or -had the lady of Dalden met with one of Wicliffe’s Bibles, and conceived -the Gospels to be a series of fabulous adventures, in which our Saviour -and His Apostles were introduced to act and to moralize like the goodly -personages who figure in the ancient mysteries, or in _Les Jeux du Roi -René d’Anjou_"? - -Farther to the south an old tower, oblong in shape stood at Little Eden. -It was, however, taken down in the early days of last century by Mr. -Rowland Burdon, who erected the present castellated house at Castle -Eden. At Dinsdale, on the banks of the Tees, the remains of the ancient -home of the Surtees family were excavated by the late Mr. Scott Surtees, -and showed that a large gatehouse of late twelfth-century work, with -vaulted chambers and a newel stair, had once stood there. - -The later manor-house of the Place family retains some portions of the -older building. With thick walls and low rooms with heavy beams and -rafters, and an old oak staircase with a wicket, it still remains a -picturesque fragment of former days. A stone originally fixed over a -gateway destroyed shortly before Hutchinson compiled his history is now -let into the wall on the left of the farmhouse door, and bears the arms -of Place quarterly with Surtees. - -The home of the Surtees’s neighbours, the allied and equally noble house -of Conyers, was at Sockburn, situated on the same sweep of the Tees. -Traces of the foundations of gardens and orchards alone point out the -site of the old house, where Dugdale in 1666 had noted the family -emblazonments in or on the building--the arms of Conyers, Vesci, Scrope, -Neville, Dacre, FitzHugh, Lumley, and of the Royal Family. Surtees -suggests that seven of the coats seem to have formed a rich armorial -window, and that amidst them ran the motto, "REGI SECVLOR I’ MORTALI I’ -VISIBILI SOLI DEO HONOR ET GLORIA I’ SECVLA SECVLOR." When the historian -wrote, "one old decaying Spanish chestnut" seemed alone to connect the -deserted spot with some recollection of its ancient owners. Of the old -house not one stone remains. A new house was erected about a century ago -by the baronet family of Blackett, who for some generations have owned -the manor. Here the far-famed Conyers falchion is preserved. The sword -dates from the thirteenth century, and has a blade 2 feet and 5½ inches -long. The handle is partly covered with ash, and has on the pommel two -shields, the three lions of England, and an eagle displayed. The cross -is engraved with decorative foliage of the period. - -One of the most interesting specimens of the older fortified residences -was Ludworth Tower.[14] The building, which consisted of a -three-storeyed oblong tower of common limestone, stands near a brook, on -a low hill, at the head of the valley in which Shadforth village lies. A -lower vaulted room up till recently still contained a large open -fireplace and hearthstone. The only entrance was by a small arched door -leading to a spiral stone staircase, projecting from the north-west -angle of the tower. Remnants of a curtain wall exist to the east, and on -the west the adjoining ground has apparently been levelled by hand. - -The whole appearance of the building, which has, unfortunately, in -recent years[15] been allowed to fall into a ruinous condition, was dark -and gloomy in the extreme. The date of its erection is fixed by the -licence obtained in 1422 by Sir Thomas Holden to embattle his -manor-house of Ludworth. - -At Bellasis, or Belasyse, another old house, with stone walls of great -thickness and moated, is now occupied by a farmer. - -Hollinside, an old mansion, associated with the Hardings, of whom Ralph -Harding the chronicler was a noteworthy member, still stands in ruins on -a bank above the River Derwent. Originally three stories in height, and -with two wings forming the three sides of a narrow court. The fourth and -east side is arched over and surmounted by a tower. On the west side a -turret projects in line with the south wall. The interior presents -several interesting features, and an outbuilding contains a large -fireplace. - -Passing from the great homes of the county, and the older fortified -towers, we come to the time when, with the greater security accorded to -the minor gentry, - -[Illustration: RABY CASTLE IN 1783.] - -numerous manor-houses and country granges began to rise. - -Even at this time, spoiled as the county is for residential purposes, it -requires no strong effort of the imagination to picture the county as it -was in later Tudor times. The Bishops, greater than ever through the -collapse of the Nevilles, still appointed their foresters, and doubtless -often made the dales resound with all the view-halloo of a gay hunt. -Durham City became a stronghold of great ecclesiastical families, the -sons and daughters of the prebendaries intermarrying with one another, -and the descendants of successive Bishops allied themselves by cross -marriages. In the country better farmsteads became erected, and -throughout the shire the landowners began to erect more commodious -residences. It is, with one or two exceptions, from this period that the -older halls and manor-houses still in existence date. It must not be -forgotten that there were at this time no great landowners in the county -in the sense that we now understand the term, and almost every village -had its own predominating squire. - -A few houses still remain, not so strongly built as the peel-towers, yet -well adapted to defence. Holmside Hall is one of these. Once one of the -principal seats of the great House of Tempest, it was forfeited by -Robert of that name, who, with his son Michael, had joined the Earls in -their rebellion, and therefore appears in Hall and Humberston’s Survey -as a "capital messuage, with all the housings built of stone and covered -with slate, with the orchards and gardens, within a park containing -three acres." Now sufficient remains to show that once the buildings -were ranged round a court and surrounded by a moat. The north side was -faced by the chapel containing a still perfect west window of two -trefoil-headed lights under a square label, with the cinquefoil of the -Umphrevilles and two blank shields in the spandrels. Above the window "a -mutilated figure is fixed to the wall, with a full-moony face, and a -kind of round helmet," of which Surtees writes: "I should almost -conjecture this to be a rude piece of Roman sculpture, removed from the -station, which may possibly have furnished the coins and squared stones -used in building this chantry." - -The house itself is a curiously confused building of many different -periods of architecture. The original gables were pulled down and the -house enlarged to the south. The windows are mullioned and narrow and -guarded with iron bars. - -After the Tempests’ fall the estate became the property of William -Whittingham, the bigoted Calvinist Dean, whose name deserves perpetual -execration as the destroyer of much that was old and beautiful in Durham -Abbey. It is possible that in the austere gloom that even now pervades -the old house at Holmeside, he might find something sympathetic with his -own strange faith. - -The Isle, another Tempest residence, stands on low ground, surrounded by -marshes caused through risings of the Skerne. It is a picturesque place, -with projecting gables and narrow mullioned lights. It was the residence -of Colonel John Tempest, first M.P. for Durham County, and still belongs -to the Marquess of Londonderry as representative of his family. - -Sledwish Hall, standing lonely and sequestered, is a place of "ghastly -grey renown." Upwards of a hundred years ago the bones of an infant were -found interred in a stone coffin in the field adjoining. The house, too, -like most of these old mansions, is supposed to contain secret passages -and rooms. Portions of the present building, more particularly the south -front, date back to Plantagenet times, but the house as it now stands is -an interesting specimen of Tudor architecture. It was rebuilt by John -Clopton, Queen Elizabeth’s Receiver, his great work being the ceiling in -the Orchard Chamber. This is divided into compartments by deep -mouldings, ornamented by numerous crowned roses, fleurs-de-lis, and -pomegranates. In the centre is a shield bearing his family arms, a -quarterly shield, first and fourth, _paly a lion rampant_, and second -and third _a cross pattee fitchée_, over all a crescent for difference. -The arms are reversed through the artist having formed his mould without -considering that the impression was the final result. Two other shields -impressed from the same mould bear the initials E. C. (evidently for the -builder’s wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Ashton of Great Lever, in -Lancashire), the date 1584, and "a _tun_ with a rose _clapt on_."[16] -Above this shield is a rose surrounded by three crowns. At the four -corners of the room are large decorative groups; two are falcons with -pomegranates, the third is a swan, and the fourth a boar under an -oak-tree devouring an acorn. A deep cornice running round the whole -ceiling is decorated with repeated devices of the Royal lion and the -Welsh dragon supporting the crowned rose, the whole evidently symbolic -of Good Queen Bess. There are several other good rooms, and a large -chimney at the south-west is supported outside by three double brackets. - -There are several other interesting mansions in this district. At -Cleatlam the old mansion of the Ewbankes still stands, gable-ended, with -mullioned windows. It was sold by them in the troublous times of the -great Civil War to the Somersets of Pauntley in Gloucester, and later -was a seat of the Wards. Another old home of the Ewbanke family was -Staindrop Hall, at the east end of the village of that name. The family -arms, _three chevronels interlaced and on a chief three pellets_, are on -one of the ceilings. Still another old house, once belonging to the same -race, was Snotterton Hall, which stood about a mile to the west of -Staindrop. Here the walls were embattled with crocketed pinnacles at the -corners, and the windows were triple mullioned lights under square -labels. Over the entrance the arms and crest of the Bainbridges, who -sold the estate to the Ewbankes in 1607, were sculptured. A portion of -the house which was pulled down in 1831 is preserved in the present Raby -Grange. - -Westholme Hall is another existing good specimen of Jacobean -architecture. It consists of a main building, with two gabled wings and -mullioned windows. The date 1606, and the name IOHN DOWTHET on a -chimney-piece in the hall, points to its erection by the Douthwaites, -who purchased the estate from the Boweses in 1603. Erected about the -same period, Gainford Hall still stands at the west end of the village. -It, too, has gable ends and mullioned windows, and several of the rooms -are wainscotted. One of the latter has a stuccoed border of flowers and -fruit. Over the door is the three-garbed chevron of the Cradocks and the -inscription IOHN : CRADOCK 1600. - -At Bishop Middleham a large old gable-ended house has a doorway with -jambs and a pediment of carved freestone. It stands on the west side of -the road leading to the church, and was originally the property of the -Wards, one of whom was Master of Sidney-Sussex College at Cambridge. In -1738 it was the residence of Thomas Brunskill, whose daughter or -granddaughter married Edward Watson, of Ingleby Greenhow, in Yorkshire. - -Another picturesque fragment of the past is the old house now standing -at the western end of Thorpe Thewles village. It is built of brick, with -low rooms, and is locally stated to have been visited by Queen Anne. The -tradition may possibly be a survival of one of our sovereigns’ passage -through the county, but it is impossible that any crowned head can ever -have rested in this old mansion. A few fields away a wing of the once -great house at Blakiston still stands. It alone remains to show where -the birthplace of one of our great old families once stood, and is the -only remnant of the later home of the loyal house of Davison, two of -whom were slain at the storming of Newcastle in 1644. - -Cotham Conyers, or Cotham Stob, derives its affix name - -[Illustration: GAINFORD HALL.] - -[Illustration: THE OLD HALL AT THORPE THEWLES.] - -from its erstwhile owners, the Conyers, and is another old gable-ended -manor-house. It stands, surrounded by elms, near to a brook. The rooms -are wainscotted, and over the fireplace in one of the rooms there was a -hunting scene on the panel, depicting a stag at bay. One of the upper -rooms was hung with tapestry. The estate was forfeited by the Conyers -through Ralph Conyers having taken part in the Earls’ rebellion in 1569. -Lying almost midway between the two Conyers’ seats of Cotham and -Sockburn stands the old home of the Killinghalls and Pembertons, at -Middleton St. George. The house formerly contained a painting, by -Francis Place, of "A Pointer and Pheasants." An old cross in the garden -is said to have been brought from Neasham Abbey. - -Passing to the west of Darlington again, near the highroad leading to -Staindrop, stands Thornton Hall, for many years the residence of a -branch of the baronial family of Tailbois. It is a stone house, with -high pitched gables, old-world red tiles, and mullioned windows, and has -long been used as a farmhouse. Above the window over the main entrance -are two gargoyles. An interesting account of this house, with a number -of good sketches, may be found in Mr. G. A. Fothergill’s _Sketch-book_. - -Several miles north of Thornton, a small old mansion with gables and -mullions may be seen at School Aycliffe, and not very far away, in a -north-westerly direction, the old grange of Midridge stands within an -old walled garden, with a row of old elms leading along the road from -the south. The house is a large treble-gable-ended building, and is said -to have been garrisoned by the Loyalist owner, Anthony Byerley, who was -a Colonel in the Royal army. His troopers are still locally known as -"Byerley’s Bull Dogs." A little to the south-west, the old house of -Newbiggin stands low, with solid stone walls, and the main staircase of -the same substantial material. There was formerly a tower on the west -end of the house. - -The hall at Coxhoe, erected about the year 1725 by John Burdon, has a -richly decorated interior of contemporary date. In this house Elizabeth -Barrett Browning was born on March 6, 1806. - -The northern portion of the county does not contain so many houses of -interest as the southern; there are, however, a few interesting -mansions. - -Fen Hall, near Lanchester, is an interesting old house, - -[Illustration: FEN HALL.] - -dating from the Stuart period. It has the Greenwell arms over the -entrance, and is now fast falling into a ruinous condition. - -[Illustration: A CORNER OF WASHINGTON HALL.] - -Washington Hall, a large, old stone mansion, built in the form of an E, -with high-pitched roof and gable-ends, stands to the south side of the -low hill on which the church is built. The lights are divided by stone -mullions and transoms. It was erected by the family of James, possibly -by the Bishop, and was, in Hutchinson’s time, the seat of the -Bracks.[17] It is now, like the old hall at Rainton, in a pitiable -state, and let in tenements. - -In the neighbourhood of Sunderland there are several interesting houses. -High Barnes, for long the home of the Ettricks, is now a convent, and -has been considerably altered. Low Barnes, the Pembertons’ old home, is -let to a laundry company. Ford Hall is a comparatively modern house, but -is interesting as having been the birthplace of General Havelock. -Pallion Hall, an old stone mansion, has recently been pulled down. - -The old hall at West Boldon is more modern, having been erected in 1709 -by the Fawcetts. The house has the arms of that family over the main -entrance, and several of the rooms are wainscotted. A quaint record of -another generation may well be noted in the late Mr. Boyle’s own words: -"On one of the window-panes in a bedroom, in a neat hand of the early -part of last century, someone has written with a diamond: - - "Beautifull Grace Andrew." - -On the next pane, in equally delicate script, another hand has added: - - "Fair written Name, yet fairer in my heart, - No Diamond cutts so deep as Cupid’s Dart." - -Travelling by railway from Boldon to Newcastle, the house now known as -the Mulberry Inn is a familiar object, just outside of Felling station. -It has been a picturesque building, and for long was the residence of -the Brandlings. It is now undergoing a serious alteration. A small -stone summer-house, once in the garden, still stands on one of the -station platforms. - -[Illustration: THE DOORWAY, WEST RAINTON HALL.] - -Kibblesworth Hall, a few miles south of Gateshead, is a solid Jacobean -brick house, with stone-mullioned, square-headed windows. It has a fine -oak staircase, and some of the fireplaces and cornices are of -contemporary date. The house has been let in tenements to the pitmen of -the adjoining colliery, the stables turned into cottages, and the -gardens into allotments. Another old house that has undergone a similar -fate is West Rainton Hall, erected about 1690 by Sir John Duck, Bart. It -stands on the main street of the village, shorn of the battlements -mentioned by Surtees, but still retaining a fine old doorway, -reminiscent of its better days. - -There are also in this district several other old houses dismantled and -in tenements, betokening the scattering of their once owners to many far -lands. It is a pleasure to turn from these to a few houses still in good -condition. The Hall,[18] Houghton-le-Spring, was perhaps erected by -Robert Hutton, Rector of Houghton, between the years 1589 and 1623, -although its erection is more popularly attributed to his grandson and -namesake. This later Robert Hutton was Captain of a troop of horse in -the Parliamentary army, and, like Dobson of Harlow Hill, - - " ... went to Dundee - And when he came back - held his head hee." - -With the proceeds of this expedition he is supposed to have built the -house in which his descendants dwelt for many generations. To satisfy -some scruple of his conscience, or, according to another story, to lie -near a favourite horse, he was buried in his garden under an altar-tomb, -inscribed: - - "Hic Jacet Robertvs Hvtton armiger qvi obiit Avg die nono 1680. Et - moriendo vivet." - -Stella Hall, a picturesque Elizabethan structure, situated close to the -River Tyne, was erected by the Tempests on the site of a nunnery, and -still contains some tapestry representing the story of Hero and Leander. - -Scattered up and down the dales are many other old homes that a writer -dealing with his homeland would love to touch upon, but space forbids. -Even these short notes are all too short. The old mansions of our -countryside are a much neglected feature of archæology, and each house -in itself demands photographs and drawings and a chapter quite as long -as this. - - - - -DURHAM ASSOCIATIONS OF JOHN WESLEY - -BY THE REV. T. CYRIL DALE, B.A. - - -A packet of old letters suggests many questions as to the writers, whom -they have long survived. Nor is this curiosity diminished when one of -the correspondents has achieved a world-wide fame, so that there is no -portion of the globe where his name is not known. For then one desires -to know who were the people whom he honoured with his friendship, and to -scan the letters closely to see if they throw any new light upon the -character of the writer. There are in existence seventeen letters -written by John Wesley to a member of a family once well-known in the -county of Durham. Originally there were thirty letters, as appears from -the numbering of those which remain, but where the other letters are the -writer does not know.[19] These seventeen letters, two of them being -only copies of the originals, came into the possession of the Rev. -Thomas Dale, Canon of St. Paul’s from 1843-70, and from him passed to -his eldest son, the Rev. Thomas Pelham Dale (1821-92), at one time -well-known as the Rector of St. Vedast in the city of London.[20] They -were written to Miss Margaret Dale, second daughter of Edward Dale[21] -of Tunstall, who, owing to the extinction (as it seems) of the elder -branch of the family in the male line, was head of the family of Dale, -first of Dalton le Dale, and then of Tunstall. This Edward Dale was the -son of Thomas Dale by his wife Margaret, daughter and co-heiress of -George Middleton of Silksworth. Through her Burke, who was far too -amiable a genealogist to doubt the assertions of any one respecting his -ancestors, however remote, traces the descent of Edward Dale from -Gundreda, daughter of William the Conqueror. The curious will find the -descent set out at length in Burke’s _Royal Family_, Pedigree XVI. -Edward Dale married Eleanor, youngest of the three daughters of the Rev. -John Lawrence, Rector of Bishop’s Wearmouth. Mr. Lawrence (1668-1732) -was in his day a well-known writer on horticulture, and has, as a -consequence, a niche in that temple of fame--the _Dictionary of National -Biography_. It is related that when in 1721 he was appointed to the -Rectory, he was so obnoxious to the principal inhabitants of his parish, -owing to his Hanoverian proclivities, that when he was "reading himself -in" the three chief landowners of the place--John Goodchild of Pallion, -John Pemberton of Bainbridge Holme, and Thomas Dale of Tunstall--walked -out of the church as a protest against his appointment.[22] By a kind of -poetic justice, his three daughters married into the families of the -three protesters. His eldest daughter married the above-named John -Goodchild, his two younger daughters the sons and heirs of John -Pemberton and Thomas Dale. Only unfortunately for the completeness of -the tale, the two last marriages did not take place till after the death -of John Lawrence. - -By Eleanor Lawrence, Edward Dale had three daughters--Mary, Margaret, -and Anne--and one son, also called Edward. He died when his eldest -daughter was only eleven and his son still an infant. - -Margaret Dale no doubt made the acquaintance of John Wesley through his -devoted adherent, Margaret Lewen. Miss Lewen, the only child of Thomas -Lewen of Kibblesworth, while still a girl of about twenty-two, was -attracted by the preaching of John Wesley during his visit to the North -in the year 1764. Wesley, in his famous "Diary," speaks of her as being -"a remarkable monument of Divine mercy. She broke through all -hindrances, and joined heart and hand with the children of God." She was -"a pattern to all young women of fortune in England." Margaret Lewen was -certainly exceedingly liberal. "In works of benevolence and Christian -zeal, she cheerfully expended an ample income" (Stamp: Orphan House of -Wesley, London, 1863). Wesley says she had about £600 a year "in her own -hands." On one of his visits to the North she gave him a chaise and a -pair of horses. Now, Margaret Lewen was very intimate with the Dale -girls, and it was probably through her influence that they came into -contact with the great preacher. Whether any letters were written to the -other sisters is not known, but they can hardly have been so numerous or -more intimate than those written to Margaret Dale. - -The first letter extant is written from Portpatrick, and is dated June -1, 1765, when Margaret Dale was still two or three months short of -twenty-one. It begins: "My Dear Miss Peggy," and ends, "I trust you will -be happier every day; and that you will not forget, my Dear Sister, your -Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." The letter is occupied with spiritual -counsels, and questions about her spiritual health. He inquires: "How -far do you find Power over your Thoughts? Does not your imagination -sometimes wander? Do those imaginations continue for any time?" It is -clear, from Wesley’s next letter, written from Kilkenny, dated July 5, -1765, that Miss Peggy had found she was guilty of wandering thoughts, -for the letter begins: "My dear Sister,--Altho’ it is certain the kind -of Wandering Thoughts wch you mention, are consistent with pure Love, -yet it is highly desirable to be delivered from yᵐ, because (as you -observe) they hinder profitable thoughts." Miss Lewen is mentioned. "I -hope Miss Lewen and you speak to each other, not only without Disguise, -but without Reserve." The letter ends, "My Dear Sister, your -affectionate Brother." - -Letters 4 and 5 are missing. The next, numbered 6, is dated from London, -November 6, 1765. Peggy has a fixed idea that she will not live beyond -the age of three and twenty. Wesley, in this letter, asks many questions -about this conviction. He wants to know when it began, and whether it -continues the same, whether her health is better or worse. The subject -is continued in the next letter, written December 31 in the same year. -This letter begins "My dear Peggy," and ends, "I cannot tell you how -tenderly I am, my Dear Sister, your affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." - -Wesley had evidently a tender paternal regard for the girl. He was in -1765 sixty-two years of age, fifteen years older than her father would -have been if he had survived. Peggy was mistaken in her conviction. She -did not actually die till November, 1777, when she had completed her -thirty-third year, so she was just ten years out. Letter 9, written -April, 1766, from Manchester, contains nothing of interest. Numbers 10 -and 11 are unfortunately missing. Number 12 shows that Peggy desired to -go to Leytonstone, where there was a considerable colony of Wesleyans, -and whither perhaps Margaret Lewen had already gone. Wesley was very -anxious she should not go. "I am afraid," he writes, "if you go to -Laton-Stone you will give up Perfection. I mean by placing it so high, -as I fear none will ever attain. I know _not one_ in London that has -ever largely conversed with Sally Ryan, who has not given it up, that -is, with regard to their own Experience. Now this, I think, would do -you no good at all. Nay, I judge, it wou’d do you much hurt: it would be -a substantial Loss. But I do not see how you _cou’d_ possibly avoid that -loss, without a free intercourse with me, both in Writing and Speaking. -Otherwise I know and feel, I can give you up, tho’ you are exceeding -near and dear to me. But if you was to be moved from your Stedfastness -that wᵈ give me pain indeed. You will write immediately to, my Dear -Peggy, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." - -The next two letters are missing, so that we do not know if Peggy obeyed -John Wesley or no, though from the tone of the next letter it seems -probable that she did so. The next letter is dated November 7, 1766. -Margaret Lewen had died at Leytonstone, October 30. By her will, dated -November 21, 1764, she left many legacies to various Methodist good -works, and to John Wesley £1,000, and her residuary estate to be applied -as he should "think fit for the furtherance of the Gospel." She left -Mary Dale £1,000, and to her sisters Margaret and Ann Dale, £100 apiece. -Her father threatened to dispute the will, and the matter was -compromised by the surrender to him of the residuary estate. - -John Wesley refers to Margaret Lewen’s death in the fifteenth letter: -"How happy it is to sit loose to all below! Just now I find a paper on -wch is wrote (in Miss Lewen’s hand), ‘March 24, 1762, Margaret Dale, Ann -Dale, Margaret Lewen, wonder in what state of life they will be in the -year 1766.’ How little did any of you think at that time that she would -then be in Eternity: But she now wonders at nothing and grieves at -nothing." He ends: "And sure neither Life nor Death shall separate you -from, my Dear Sister, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." - -In the eighteenth letter--the sixteenth contains nothing of especial -interest, the seventeenth is missing--Wesley speaks of his followers at -Newcastle: "Those you mention are Israelites indeed to whom you will do -well to speak with all freedom. A few more in Newcastle are of the same -spirit: Altho’ they are but few in whom ye Gold is free from dross. I -wish you could help poor Molly Stralliger. I am often afraid for her -lest she shᵈ be ignorant of Satan’s devices, and lose all that GOD had -wrought in her." - -The twentieth letter we give in full, not because it is more interesting -than the other letters, but because it has not before appeared in public -print.[23] The other letters will be found in the _Life and Letters of -Thomas Pelham Dale_, by his daughter, Helen Pelham Dale, published by -George Allen, 1894. The whereabouts of this letter was not then known, -but it has since been unearthed from a collection of autographs made by -a connection of the family. Possibly the other missing letters may be in -other collections. The letter is dated from Athlone, June 19, 1767: "My -dear Peggy, By conversing with you, I should be overpaid for coming two -or three hundred miles round about. But how it will be I know not yet. -If a ship be ready for Whitehaven, then I shall arrive at Whitehaven or -Newcastle, otherwise I must sail for Holyhead or Chester. I hope you now -again find the increased witness that you are saved from sin. There is a -danger in being content without it, into which you may easily reason -yourself. You may easily bring yourself to believe there is no need of -it, especially while you are in an easy and peaceful state. But beware -of this. The Witness of Sanctification as well as of Justification, is -ye privilege of God’s Children, and you may have the one always clear as -well as ye other if you walk humbly and closely with God. In what state -do you find your mind now? Full of Faith and Love? Praying always? Then -I hope you always remember my Dear Peggy, Your affectionate Brother, J. -Wesley." - -Before Wesley wrote again he had been to Newcastle and had seen Peggy. -The letter is dated from Witney, August 27, and is, as usual, very -affectionate in tone: "I thought it was hardly possible for me to love -you better than I did before I came last to Newcastle. But your artless, -simple, undisguised Affection exceedingly increased mine. At the same -time it increased my Confidence in you so that I feel you are -unspeakably near and dear to me." He adds in a postscript, "Don’t forget -what you have learnt in Music." Possibly Peggy had been showing her -friend her accomplishments. Possibly, too, she had learnt her music from -a certain young man, Edward Avison, afterwards organist of St. Nicholas’ -Church, Newcastle. If this were the case, her teacher taught Peggy -something else beside music, for she afterwards married him. - -In the next letter we get glimpses of two people famous in the Methodist -world of the day, George Whitefield, and Darcy, Lady Maxwell. Of George -Whitefield it is unnecessary to speak. Lady Maxwell was the daughter of -Thomas Brisbane of Brisbane in Ayrshire, and the widow of Sir Walter -Maxwell, fourth Baronet, of Pollock. Left a childless widow in 1757, she -became a follower of John Wesley, though she did not formally join the -Methodists till many years later. She provided the money for building -the school at Kingswood. - -Wesley writes: "I hope Mr. Whitefield was an instrument of good at -Newcasle, and a means of stirring up Some. He is very affectionate and -very lively and his word seldom falls to the ground: tho’ he does not -frequently speak of the deep things of GOD, or the Height of ye -Promises. But you say not one word of Lady Maxwell? Did she call at -Newcastle going and coming? Did you converse with her alone? And did she -break thro’ her Natural and habitual Shyness? How did you find her? -Seeking Heavenly things alone, and all athirst for _God_? It will be a -miracle of miracles if she stands, considering the thousand snares that -surround her. I have much satisfaction when I consider in how different -a situation you and my Dear Molly Dale are. You have every outward -Advantage for Holiness wch an indulgent Providence can give."[24] - -The correspondence now begins to slacken. Peggy has accused him of not -answering her last letter; in reply Wesley writes from Liverpool, April -1, 1768. "I do not understand what Letter you mean. I have answer’d (if -I do not forget) every letter which I have receiv’d, and I commonly -answer either of you within a day or two. In this respect, I do not love -to remain in your debt. In others I must always be so, for I can never -pay you the Affection I owe. Accept of what little I have to give.... I -hope to be at Glasgow on Wednesday the 19th instant, at Aberdeen ye -28th, at Edinburgh May 5th, at Newcastle on Friday May 20th." - -The next letter dated June 30, 1768, may be described as a very brief -treatise on Sanctification. Then there is a gap of nearly a year, the -next letter being dated May 20, 1769. Peggy has had to endure a great -trial. Her sister Molly married a Mr. John Collinson of London. The -_Newcastle Courant_ of April 29, 1769, thus announces the fact: -"Thursday, was married at St. Andrew’s, Mr. John Collinson of London to -Miss Dale of Northumberland Street, daughter of the late Mr. Dale of -Tunstall, near Sunderland, a most agreeable young lady, endowed with -every qualification to render the marriage state happy, with a fortune -of £2,000." But Peggy felt her sister’s defection much. Wesley was -strongly in favour of the single life both for men and women. He had -published a treatise in favour of celibacy, entitled _Thoughts on a -Single Life_. It is true that he himself afterwards married in the year -1751, but, as his matrimonial experiences were distinctly unfortunate -(he separated from his wife for ever after five years of married life), -he was not unnaturally more than ever firmly convinced of the advantage -of celibacy.[25] Peggy was as yet quite sure that John Wesley was right -in this as in everything else. - -He comforts her thus: "The hearing from my Dear Peggy at this critical -time gives me a particular satisfaction. I wanted to know, How you bore -such a trial, a wound in the tenderest part. You have now a first proof -that the God whom you serve, is able to deliver you in every trial. You -feel and yet conquer.... I hope you are delivered not only from -_repining_ with regard to Her, but from _reasoning_ with regard to -yourself. You still see the more excellent way, and are sensible of the -advantages you enjoy. I allow _some_ single women have fewer Advantages -for Eternity than they might have in a married State. But, blessed be -GOD you have all the Advantages wch one can well conceive.... O may you -improve every advantage to the uttermost. And give more and more comfort -to, my Dear Peggy, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." - -There is one more letter from London, November 17, 1769, encouraging -Peggy to persevere in her work for others. Then the letters cease. -Perhaps there were more letters which have been lost, or were perchance -destroyed by the recipient. Wesley, with his zeal for celibacy, can -hardly have liked the news of his Peggy’s engagement to Edward Avison. -He was organist of St. Nicholas’, Newcastle, in succession to his -father, Charles Avison,[26] once a well-known musician in the North of -England. He was three years younger than Peggy. Their married life was -short. They were married March, 1773: Edward Avison died October, 1776, -aged twenty-nine; and Peggy in November, 1777, aged thirty-three. They -left no children. Their monument in the churchyard of St. Andrew’s -Church, Newcastle, says: "They were eminent for piety and primitive -simplicity of manners; having each borne a lingering disease with the -most exemplary patience and resignation, they rejoiced at the approach -of death." Perhaps Wesley visited Newcastle during the last year of his -dear Peggy’s life, and was able to minister spiritual consolation to -her. Let us hope that any breach that Peggy’s marriage may have made -between her and one who loved her with so tender and paternal an -affection was cured by the approach of Death, the great Healer. - -Little remains to be said. Mary Collinson lived to 1812, and left a -family of two sons, George Dale and John Collinson, and three daughters, -Ann Collinson, Thermuthis Collinson, and Mary, the wife of Christopher -Godmond. It is not known if any of her descendants are alive to-day; if -there be any such, they may very likely possess the missing letters. Ann -Dale never married, and lived till 1820. Edward, their brother, died in -1826, having seen five of his six sons die before him without issue. His -eldest and only surviving son, also Edward, lived till 1862, and then -died childless. With him died out the senior branch of the family of -Dale of Dalton-le-Dale and Tunstall. Since his death there have been no -Dales of this family residing in the Bishopric. How the letters written -by John Wesley came into the possession of Canon Dale, or Canon Dale’s -father, William Dale, is not known. Possibly Anne Dale gave them to -William Dale, or her brother may have given them to his son. It is -certain that to that son’s careful preservation of them we owe this -intimate revelation of the great revivalist’s affection for a Durham -girl. - - - - -THE OLD FAMILIES OF DURHAM - -BY HENRY R. LEIGHTON - - -The evil fate that has attended the old houses in this county has -followed equally relentlessly the families who once dwelled therein. -Here and there, it is true, a family still exists that has weathered the -storms of long centuries; one or two, perhaps, may be pointed out that -have increased their acreage as the long years went by; and perhaps -another two or three whose lands remain with daughters’ heirs. - -With few exceptions, almost all the families of importance in feudal -days have passed away. The great House of Neville,[27] that once -threatened to overshadow the Lords Palatine themselves, survives only in -several southern branches, and their name is almost forgotten in their -native land. The baronial houses of Eure,[28] Conyers, Hylton, and -FitzMarmaduke have all passed away. So, too, have nearly all the names -recorded in the Heralds’ Visitations at intervals from 1530 to 1666. Of -the latter, eight only retain their patrimonial acres. These are the -Chaytors, Edens, Lambtons, Liddells, Lumleys, Salvins, Vanes, and -Whartons. To these may be added the Williamsons, who came from -Nottinghamshire, and the Shaftos from Northumberland. - -The Visitations of Durham[29] are, like those of the sister county of -Northumberland, notoriously incomplete. Of the latter, Surtees wrote: -"The Northumbrian gentry, many of whom probably never heard of the -Visitation, would scarcely leave their business or amusements to attend -an Officer of Arms for a purpose of which few then saw the utility, and -which, it is plain, in many instances was considered an extreme -nuisance." In the adjoining county to the south there was a similar -state of affairs. Of Dugdale’s _Visitation of York_, Mr. Davies wrote: -"Nearly one-third of the whole number of gentry whom the herald called -upon to appear before him with proofs of their arms and pedigrees -treated his summonses with neglect." - -In this county both a long and a strong list of families of gentle blood -can easily be enumerated who, for one reason or another, make no -appearance in the Heralds’ books. No one familiar with the history of -the county can have helped remarking the absence of families formerly so -well known, and in many cases still well known, as the Allgoods of -Bradley, Blacketts of Hoppyland, Bromleys of Nesbitt, Dales of Dalton, -Douthwaites of Westholme, Emersons of Westgate, Goodchilds of Pallion, -Greenwells of Greenwell and Stobilee, Holmeses of Wearmouth, Hunters of -Medomsley, Ironsides of Houghton, Meaburns of Pontop, and others whose -names spin out too long a list to give in full. Now, most of these -families had intermarried with families who registered and had written -themselves as "gentlemen" for several generations; and, as an -interesting sidelight upon the Visitations, we believe it could be shown -that more than one family who registered was in debt pretty heavily to -others who didn’t register. So it does not appear to have been -altogether a matter of means. - -It may perhaps be as well, before proceeding farther, to notice the -principal material we have, in addition to the Visitations, for proving -the succession to estate in this county. - -Durham, being a separate regality, is not included in the Domesday Book, -and our earliest record is the Boldon Book, dated some years later, -being compiled by order of Bishop Pudsey in 1183. Later there is a -survey of the county, made by order of Bishop Hatfield, who ruled from -1345 to 1381. From the time of Bishop Beaumont (1318-33) the succession -may be proved by the inquisitions post-mortem taken upon the death of -every owner. These documents were formerly kept at Durham, but are now, -with many other local records, in London. - -With these must be mentioned the Halmote Rolls, commencing in 1349, -containing a record of all holders of the Bishop’s lands and other -records of the cursitors. The Durham Chancery Proceedings, also now in -the Record Office, are full of the most interesting information -respecting local families. - -The wills of residents in the Bishopric from the sixteenth century -onwards are of great value. A few also of the parish registers within -the diocese commence towards the end of the same century, but the -majority do not date with any regularity until another hundred years had -passed. - -Limited space forbids any lengthy account of the families individually, -and a few passing notices must suffice. Amongst the existing -"indigenous" families, as Surtees calls them, the Lumleys must bear the -palm, not for length of pedigree, but for the long period they have -ranked amongst the greater nobility. - -Probably for some generations before, and certainly from, the days of -Uchtred, Lord of Lumley, _temp._ King Stephen, the family has held high -rank. Marmaduke de Lumley, who was in right of his mother one of the -coheirs of the barony of Thweng, made an interesting change in the -family arms. His father had borne a scarlet shield with six silver -popinjays, whilst his mother’s family arms were a golden shield, thereon -a fess gules. Marmaduke dispensed with three of the popinjays, and -placed his mother’s fess between the remaining three, two above it and -one below. His son Sir Ralph, the builder of the castle at Lumley, was -summoned to Parliament as a Baron in the eighth year of Richard II.’s -reign. Yorkist in sympathy, he joined in an unfortunate attempt to -overthrow the fourth Henry in the year that monarch grasped the throne, -and was killed at Cirencester in a skirmish. One of his younger sons, -Marmaduke, was successively Bishop of Carlisle and Lincoln, and Lord -High Treasurer of England. John de Lumley, Sir Ralph’s second but eldest -surviving son, was restored to his father’s estates by King Henry, -became a distinguished leader in the French wars, and was slain on the -field of Baugé in 1421. The successor, his only son Thomas, was summoned -to Parliament in his grandfather’s barony in 1461, the attainder of the -latter being reversed upon petition. - -Third in descent from the last-named peer, John, the fifth Baron, took -part in the great victory of Flodden. He lived to see his son and heir, -George Lumley, beheaded for high treason, and attainted, for taking part -in the Pilgrimage of Grace. - -George Lumley’s son, John Lumley, was recreated a Peer in 1547, his -father’s attainder being reversed. This John, Lord Lumley, must have -been something of an Oriental in his philosophy. He was strongly imbued -with the spirit of ancestor-worship. It was he who brought two stone -monuments from Durham Abbey under the belief that they were of his -forefathers, and set them up with a long line of effigies representing -every generation of his house from a remote period. The rooms at Lumley -were also hung with a series of portraits of the same individuals by his -direction. About the origin of these the late Mr. Planché advanced an -interesting theory, printed in 1866, in the _Journal of the British -Archæological Association_. - -Lord Lumley appears to have impressed his family importance upon William -James, the contemporary Bishop of Durham, whose repetition of the -pedigree so astonished that modern Solomon, King James I., that the -latter evidently thought the Bishop was taking a rise out of him. "By my -saul, I didna ken Adam’s name was Lumley!" said the Sovereign. Doubtless -this was a natural exclamation, for it was the King’s first meeting with -a pedigree drawn up by an Elizabethan Herald. He would meet others as he -travelled farther South! - -The estates passed on the death of this peer to a second cousin, Sir -Richard Lumley. Created in 1628 a Viscount in the Peerage of Ireland, -Sir Richard in later years was known as a gallant Royalist, and one of -Prince Rupert’s trusted officers. - -His son, another Richard, one of the commanders of the Royal army at -Sedgemoor, was advanced in 1690 to the Earldom of Scarborough. Little -more remains to be said, beyond that Lumleys have taken part in almost -every war since that date (one, Sir William, commanded the cavalry at -Albuera; and another, a captain in the navy, was killed on the _Isis_ in -1782), and that Lumley Castle is still the seat of the Earls of -Scarborough. - -Closely allied to the Lumleys by marriage, the Lambtons have owned the -adjoining estate of Lambton from the twelfth century. Their connection -with the curious legend of the Lambton Worm has made the name widely -known in the North. From the fifteenth century onwards the family were -perhaps most remarkable for the brilliant series of marriages the -successive owners of the estate made. Matches with Rokeby of Rokeby, -Lumley of Ludworth, the Lords Eure, the Tempests of Stella, and the -Curwens of Workington, each either bringing additional lands to the -house, or else widening and extending the family influence, came to a -climax with the marriage of Ralph Lambton, in 1696, with Dorothy -Hedworth, heiress to great estates on the north bank of the river. The -great-grandson of this marriage was the celebrated Radical Earl of -Durham, whose life has been told in recent years by Mr. Stuart Reid. - -The Greenwells are the third ancient house in this county who still -dwell on the lands from which they take their name. At the time our -earliest record, the Boldon Book, was compiled, William the Priest[30] -held lands at Greenwell, in the green valley of Wolsingham, and his -sons, James and Richard de Greenwell, took their surname from their -home. From their generation through long centuries Greenwell succeeded -Greenwell, until the death of Henry Greenwell in 1890. The estate then -passed to his brother’s daughter, Mrs. Fletcher, who sold Greenwell -within the last few years to her kinsman, Sir Walpole Eyre Greenwell, -Bart. - -Like other families, as the years passed by, younger sons founded -branches, some of which flourished and became even more influential than -the parent stem. - -Anthony Greenwell, a son of Peter Greenwell of Wolsingham, and grandson -of Peter Greenwell of Greenwell, living in the reign of Henry VIII., is -stated to have settled at Corbridge, in the adjoining county of -Northumberland. His son Ralph became allied by marriage to a number of -influential families; the administration issued after the death of his -father-in-law, Ralph Fenwick of Dilston, in - -[Illustration: GENERAL JOHN LAMBTON.] - -1623, showing that the latter left five daughters, his coheirs. Of -these, Isabel, the eldest, married Ralph Greenwell, Mary married John -Swinburne, Agnes was wife to John Orde, Margaret to George Tempest of -Winlaton, and Barbara married William Harrison. - -Ralph’s grandson Nicholas, so named after his mother’s father Nicholas -Leadbitter of Warden, married, in 1683, Frances Whitfield, and their -son, Whitfield Greenwell, a captain in the army, was killed at the -Battle of Glenshiels in 1719. From his grandson, John Greenwell, of the -India House, the present Sir Walpole Greenwell is lineally descended. - -A second branch of the family has long been known as the Greenwells of -Greenwell Ford, thus curiously taking their name from the old home in -Wolsingham parish and giving it to the new (though its very newness has -now grown green with age) home near Lanchester. - -Thomas Greenwell, probably a younger son of John Greenwell of Greenwell, -living _circa_ 1440, took up his abode at Stobilee, in the parish of -Satley (the vill of which had been held in chief in the early days of -the fourteenth century by Robert de Greenwell), and there his -descendants resided until the time of the Commonwealth, when the then -head of the family, William Greenwell, was sequestered as a Royalist, -his lands being taken from him, and let to Henry Blackett by the -Parliamentary Commissioners. - -Nicholas Greenwell, a younger brother of the Royalist William, founded -the house of Ford, purchasing that estate in 1633. He married at -Medomsley, in 1623, Mary Kirkley, probably a near relative of Michael -Kirkley of Newcastle, whose daughter married the first Sir William -Blackett. This Michael Kirkley mentions in his will, which he made in -1620, amongst other relatives, his cousin, Mr. William Greenwell the -elder, of London, merchant, to whom William Camden, the Herald, had -confirmed in 1602 "the antient armes of the worshipfull family of -Greenwell, of Grenewell Hill, in the County Palatine of Duresme, from -which the said William Greenwell is descended." This London branch of -the family ended with an heiress, who married Thomas Legh, of Ridge, in -Cheshire. - -Returning to Nicholas Greenwell of Ford, he died in 1640, and was buried -amongst his ancestors at Lanchester. His son, another William, added -lands at Kibblesworth to the paternal estate by marriage with an heiress -of the Cole family. He died at an advanced age in 1701, when his eldest -son, Nicholas, succeeded to Greenwell Ford, whilst Kibblesworth passed -to his younger son, Robert. The latter was great-grandfather of the late -Major-General Sir Leonard Greenwell, K.C.B., who, in 1820, acted as -godfather to the present venerable head of the family, the author of -Greenwell’s Glory, one of, if not, the best trout flies known. - -Other branches of the family have flourished for awhile and then -disappeared. In 1697 William Greenwell of Whitworth acquired a moiety, -including the mansion-house of Great Chilton, where his descendants -lived for some three generations. One of his daughters married Cuthbert -Smith, whose brother Ralph became his heir. This hunting squire -bequeathed his property, for no other reason but that they had often -ridden together - - "From the drag to the chase, from the chase to the view, - From the view to the death in the morning," - -to Robert Surtees of Milkwellburn. - -At a much earlier date another William Greenwell owned a fair estate at -Neasham, and dying in 1619 left two daughters, Margaret aged three and -Eleanor two years, as his heirs. His widow married Marmaduke Wyville, -and the daughters respectively became the wives of John Taylor of -Appleton, and Ralph Hedworth of Pokerley. - -One other branch, still surviving, must not be passed over. The estate -of Broomshields near to Satley has belonged to Greenwells from as far -back as 1488, when one of the many Peters lived there. The -representation of the Maddisons of Hole House in the Derwent Valley, a -family celebrated in local history and ballad, passed into this family -by marriage in 1774. A later owner of Broomshields, John Greenwell, -married Elizabeth, daughter of Alan Greenwell of Ford, and thus -re-united the two families. - -Many years have passed since Robert Surtees wrote: "_Sic transit._ We -know not what are become of the descendants of Bulmer, whose ancestors -held Brancepeth and Middleham Castles. The family of Conyers, which has -had Parliamentary lords, and once consisted of nine or ten flourishing -branches (excepting some remains in the South), is reduced to a single -Baronet’s title without a fortune, and the probable descendants of -Surtees of Dinsdale are ignorant of their own origin, whilst the chief -male line is either extinct or steeped in poverty and oblivion." - -The great house of Surtees derives, as its name implies, its origin from -a family resident to a remote period on the banks of the River Tees. -William, the son of Siward, was living there in the reign of Henry II., -and his son Ralph was the first to style himself Sur Tees, the family -residence being then, as for many long years afterwards, at Dinsdale, -the adjoining seat to Sockburn where the Conyers family dwelt. - -Of the dissolution of this head house of the race, Mr. Surtees added: "I -discovered by a remarkable deed at Durham (unknown to Hutchinson) how -the estates went to Brandling in prejudice of Marmaduke, heir male of -the half-blood; and that Marmaduke’s grandson Thomas sold most of what -remained in the male line; but I cannot find further as to this Thomas -except that his younger brother Richard married and had two sons, Robert -and Richard, who are the last I can trace of this branch, the undoubted -direct heirs." - -The existing branches of this old family now resident at Redworth Hall, -Mainsforth, and Hamsterley, derive their descent from a William Surtees -who, in the year 1440, acquired lands in Whickham under the Halmote -Court, his sureties being Robert Boutflower and Thomas Gibson. - -His descendants for some generations resided within the parishes of -Whickham in this county, and Ovingham in Northumberland. - -Edward Surtees strengthened the family by marrying in 1617 Margaret -Coulson, whose mother was sister and heir of Robert Surtees, Alderman -and twice Mayor of Durham. - -The eldest son of this marriage was ancestor of the famous beauty, Bessy -Surtees, who ran away with and married John Scott, afterwards Lord Eldon -and Chancellor of Great Britain. - -The second son, Robert Surtees of Ryton, added to his inheritance by -marrying an heiress of the Hauxley family. He purchased Mainsforth and -founded the two families now owning that seat and Redworth, and amongst -his descendants was Robert Surtees the historian, to whom his native -county owes an everlasting debt. - -The Surtees of Hamsterley Hall trace their descent from a Cuthbert -Surtees of Ebchester who died in 1622, and whose relationship to the -Ovingham family is not at present clear. His son Anthony, however, held -the Hollins in Ovingham parish in 1629, and that property in 1586 was in -the possession of Rowland Surtees, who died the following year, and who -was brother of William Surtees, ancestor of the families already -mentioned. - -Hamsterley descended to Robert Smith Surtees, the author of some -well-known sporting novels. - -The Edens are almost certainly an indigenous family, for there can be -but little doubt that they derive their name from the village of Eden, -now called Castle Eden. The family for a number of generations resided -at Preston-on-Tees, - -[Illustration: HOPPYLAND PARK.] - -where lands were held by Robert de Eden in 1413. A succession of -Thomases and Williams bring the pedigree into the sixteenth century, -when John Eden married an heiress of the Lambtons. After the heads of -the house successively increased the family patrimony by marrying -heiresses of the Hutton, Welbury, and Bee families, John Eden’s -great-great-grandson, Robert by name, followed his ancestor’s example by -marrying another Lambton heiress. He was Member for the county and was -created a Baronet in 1672. Sir Robert Eden, the third Baronet, had a -large and distinguished family. His second son Robert was Governor of -Maryland, and created a Baronet in 1776. He was ancestor of the present -Sir William Eden, who succeeded also to the inheritance of the -first-named Sir Robert’s eldest son, and is thus doubly a Baronet. The -Governor’s next brother, Sir Robert’s third son, was the distinguished -statesman, William Lord Auckland, and the fifth son, Sir Morton Eden, an -eminent diplomatist, was created Baron Henley, and was ancestor of the -present peer. One of the sisters of this talented trio married John -Moore, Archbishop of Canterbury, and another married the Rev. Richard -Richardson, Chancellor of St. Paul’s. - -Several old families have for many generations dwelt in the Valley of -the Derwent, and were all more or less intermarried with each other. - -Thomas Hunter, about the end of the fourteenth century, married Margaret -Layton, heiress, through her mother, of the family of Alanshields of -Alanshields. A century later quite a small clan of the Hunters were -resident up and down the valley, but principally at Medomsley. Here in -1675 was born Dr. Christopher Hunter, the celebrated antiquary; and here -nearly a century later, in 1757, General Sir Martin Hunter, G.C.M.G., -first saw the light. - -The Stevensons were another Derwentside family, whose name is best known -through John Hall, the _Eugenius_ of Sterne, having taken it when he -married the heiress of Ambrose Stevenson of Byerside. - -The Shaftos have in various branches been closely connected with the -county for many centuries. The late Rev. John Hodgson, in an early -volume of the _Archæologia Æliana_, throws doubt upon the traditional -descent of the Shaftos in the male line from the Folliots. He -overlooked, however, several important facts that at least render the -assertion possible. The Fenwick of which the Folliots were Lords is not -the Fenwick in Northumberland as he assumed, but the place of that name -in Yorkshire which passed by the marriage of Margaret Folliot to her -husband, Sir Hugh Hastings, and long continued in his family. - -Cuthbert, son of John Folliot of Fenwick, is said to have acquired lands -at Shafto in Northumberland by marrying one of the heirs of Roger -Welwick of that place, and his descendants took the local name; another -daughter of Roger is stated in the Visitation of Rutland, 1618, to have -married a Bryan Harbottle. A comparison of the arms of the respective -families shows that the Shafto coat is merely the Folliot arms -differenced. Jordan Folliot in 1295 bore _gules a bend argent_, and -Robert de Shaftowe, a contemporary, bore _gules on a bend argent, three -mullets azure_. - -The Shaftos of Tanfield Leigh in this county recorded their pedigree at -the Visitation of 1615. Le Neve continued the family for several -generations. James Shafto, aged eight, in 1615 married a sister of Sir -John Jackson of Harraton, and his son was living in 1707, and then -described as very poor. His son, again, a third James, married a -daughter of Sir Thomas Sandford, and had three sons, after whom the -descent is not clear. - -The family now resident at Whitworth Park are an early offshoot of the -Shaftos of Bavington in Northumberland. They have several times -intermarried with the Edens, and, like that family, are very rich in -quarterings. Their escutcheon includes the arms of the Cavendishes, -Dukes of Newcastle; the Lords Ogle, and many other great houses. Within -the last century Beamish Park, near Chester-le-Street, has become the -seat of another branch of the same family. - -The Salvins of Croxdale are another of our old historic families who -have held the same acres for generations. They have lived at their -present home from the early days of the fifteenth century. In the time -of King Charles they were gallant Loyalists, and two of them were killed -in the King’s service. - -The Whartons have also resided near to Durham for a good many centuries. -They descend from the Whartons of Wharton in Westmorland, and their -armorial insignia is interesting both in its origin and as illustrating -the close alliance often existing between families bearing similar arms. -Amongst the Normans who settled in this country after the Conquest was a -family named Flamanville, often abbreviated into Flamville, who took -their name from their lordship of that name in the province of La Manche -in Normandy, and gave it as a suffix to their new Leicester estate of -Aston. Their coat of arms was simply _la manche_, the sleeve, and so the -name originally applied to the curious geographical shape of a peninsula -came to be a familiar term in English heraldry. They intermarried with -the Conyers and the Hastings, and both these families adopted the -_manche_ as their emblem. An heiress of the latter family married a -Wharton, and to this day a silver _manche_ or _maunch_ on a black field -is the Wharton arms. - -Dr. Wharton of Old Park, a lineal ancestor of the Dryburn family, is -celebrated as one of the courageous physicians who continued to visit -the sick during the Great Plague of London. One of his descendants, Dr. -Thomas Wharton, was the friend of the poet Thomas Gray, who visited him -at Old Park. - -The name of Burdon is an old one in the county, and probably derived -from one or other of the local villages of that name. There were Burdons -at Helmdon centuries ago, and for a number of generations Burdens have -owned Castle Eden. The curious articles on the family arms, described by -some writers as organ-pipes, are said to be in reality palmers’ staffs, -and are so used by the present family. - -One branch of the Ords, who are a Northumbrian, or more correctly a -North Durham, family, must not be passed over. In the reign of James I. -John Ord acquired property at Fishburn, and founded the house who have -for so long dwelt at Sands Hall, beside Sedgefield. - -Another family of Northumbrian extraction are the Blenkinsopps of -Hoppyland, who are, however, in the male line descended from the Leatons -or Leightons of Benfieldside. Hoppyland was purchased from the Blacketts -in 1768 by William Leaton of Gibside, agent to the Bowes family. - -The Blacketts, who now reside at Wylam in Northumberland, held Hoppyland -for several generations. Their ancestor, Edward Blackett, of Shildon, -married for his second wife a daughter of the famous Lilburne family of -Thickley-Puncharden, and a near relative of "Freeborn John." The Baronet -family, who now own the old Conyers estate of Sockburn, are also -descended from this Edward, and are rather curiously derived from the -latter family. The first baronet’s wife was a daughter of Michael -Kirkley of Newcastle, whose wife’s grandmother, Marion Anderson, was a -lineal descendant of William Conyers of Wynyard.[31] - -Ravensworth Castle, near Gateshead, has been the home of the Liddell -family since 1607. The third owner of the name was created a Baronet by -King Charles I. in 1642, and was a strong Royalist during the troubled -years of that King’s reign. Since then the family has twice held -peerages. Sir Henry Liddell was created Baron Ravensworth in 1747, but -as he had no children the title became extinct at his death in 1784. -His great-nephew, Sir Thomas Henry Liddell, took the same title on his -elevation to the peerage in 1821. - -Two members of the Ravensworth family have left names well known in the -literary world. The second Baron, son and namesake of the first, was the -author of a translation into English lyric verse of the _Odes of -Horace_, and, in conjunction with Mr. Richards, he published in blank -verse a translation of the last six books of Virgil’s _Æneid_. He was -created Earl of Ravensworth, a title that died with his son, when the -Barony passed to a cousin. The Very Rev. Henry George Liddell, Dean of -Christ Church, Oxford, and some time Vice-Chancellor of that University, -was one of the compilers of the well-known Greek lexicon. - -The Bowes family was once as widely scattered over Durham as the -Conyers. Streatlam Castle and Gibside, Bradley Hall, Biddick, and -Thornton Hall, were all residences of the Boweses at one time. One -branch only in the male line survives, and is now resident at Croft. -Streatlam and Gibside, however, still belong to descendants in the -female line--the Earls of Strathmore--who have added the name of their -Durham ancestors to the paternal surname of Lyon. - -One of the most celebrated members of this family was _Old_ Sir William -Bowes, whose devotion to the young wife he lost, when he was about -twenty-eight years old, has caused him to be celebrated amongst true -lovers. He lived to a great age, and never remarried. - -A descendant of his, Sir George Bowes, is celebrated in local rhyme as-- - - "Cowardy! cowardy! Barney Castle," - -a most erroneous term, for he was, in very truth, a loyal and gallant -gentleman, whose brave defence of Barnard Castle in a time of strife and -rebellion perhaps saved England for Queen Elizabeth. But the Boweses -have always, like most of our real old families, been a brave old race, -and fully up to their motto: _In multis, in magnis, in bonis expertus_. - -The Chaytors are descended from a certain John Chaytor, of Newcastle, -merchant, whose widow remarried William Wilkinson, another merchant in -the same old city. - -The widow of both made her will on March 23, 1558-59, and in it, after -desiring to be buried in All Saints’ Church, Newcastle, beside her last -lord, mentions her two sons, Christopher and John, and her daughter, -Jane Kirkhouse. John Chaytor the younger married a daughter of James -Perkinson, and left two children, Elizabeth and John, living in 1579. - -Christopher Chaytor became an important public man, and, besides -acquiring the Manor of Butterby, near Durham, gathered into the family -fold the great estate of the noble old house of Clervaux, of Croft, and -founded the present Baronet Chaytors. His son Thomas married a daughter -of Sir Nicholas Tempest, Bart., of Stella; and his son again, Nicholas -Chaytor, was a Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Army under the famous -fighting Marquess of Newcastle, and by his wife, a Lambton heiress, was -father of Sir William, created a Baronet in 1671. This baronetcy became -extinct on the death of the first holder in 1720, but was again revived -when Sir William Chaytor was created a Baronet in 1801. - -The Tempests, as already mentioned, were relatives of the Chaytors. They -came into the county from Yorkshire, when Sir William Tempest, of -Studley, married the heiress of the Washingtons of Washington. His -natural son, Rowland, acquired a considerable estate by marrying one of -the many coheirs of the great baronial family of Umphreville, and was -ancestor of the various families of the name seated in this county. - -Sir Nicholas Tempest, of Stella Hall, in the reign of James I., was -created a Baronet, and was buried at Ryton in 1625. - -[Illustration] Portrait of Sir George Bowes - -(_From the painting at Streatlam Castle_)] - -His younger brother, Rowland Tempest, was ancestor of the Tempests of -the Isle and Old Durham, whose representative some hundred years later, -John Tempest, who was many years M.P. for the city of Durham, left a -daughter Frances, who became eventually heiress of this branch of the -family. She married the Rev. Sir Henry Vane, Bart., Prebendary of Durham -Cathedral, a descendant of the famous Sir Henry Vane the elder, and her -son, assuming his mother’s name, became Sir Henry Vane-Tempest. He left -an only daughter, Frances Anne Emily, who married the third Marquess of -Londonderry as his second wife, and was grandmother of the present -Marquess. - -The Vanes, who descend from a common ancestor with the Earls of -Westmorland, have only been connected with Durham since the reign of -James I., when Sir Henry Vane, of Hadlo Castle, a Kentish knight, -acquired Raby Castle by grant from the Crown. His youngest son was -ancestor of the Marquesses of Londonderry, and his eldest son was -ancestor of the late Duke of Cleveland and of the present Lord Barnard. - -The Williamsons came into this county through a strange decree of fate. -The estate of Monkwearmouth passed from its purchaser, Colonel George -Fenwick, of Brinkburn, the well-known Puritan, to his daughter Dorothy, -who married Sir Thomas Williamson, of East Markham, in Nottinghamshire. -Sir Thomas belonged to a Cavalier family that had lost much in the Royal -cause. - -Sir William, the fourth Baronet, married a sister of Mrs. Lambton, of -Lambton, and co-heiress of John Hedworth, of Harraton, whose wife was a -descendant of William James, sometime Bishop of Durham. Whitburn Hall -has for several generations been the family residence, and the present -Baronet is the ninth. - -Lord Boyne’s family are only recent settlers in Durham, and came here -when Brancepeth Castle passed to the seventh Viscount upon his marriage -with an heiress of the Russells. They have been Barons of Brancepeth -since 1866. - -Other old families still existent in the shire who should at least be -mentioned are the Pembertons[32] of Belmont Hall, the Wilkinsons of -Durham, the Fogg-Elliots of Elvet Hill, the Bateses of Wolsingham, the -Trotters of Helmdon, and the Hutchinsons. - -The Claverings of Axwell, a noble old race, have within the last few -years died out in the male line, but the name and blood continue in the -present owners of the old home. - -Descendants of other old families doubtless linger on: Byerleys and -Fawcetts, Darnells and Croudaces, Muschamps and Emersons, Morgans and -Marleys, Ewbankes and Raines, Rippons and Maddisons, and many another -race, inheriting to the full the traditions of our country, are to be -found scattered up and down the county. - - - - -INDEX - - -Abbey, Durham, 158 - ----- of Durham dissolved, 16 - -Acre, 107 - -Agnes’s Fast, St., 53 - -Alanshields of Alanshields, 249 - -Aldhun, Bishop, 109 - -"All Fools’ Day," 57 - -Alston, 41 - -Altars at Bolihope, Roman, 80 - -Altar-screen, Durham, 121-122, 138 - -Altar-tomb, Neville, 170 - ----- of Bernard Gilpin, 194, 195 - -Amiatinus, the Codex, 151 - -Anglo-Saxon memorial crosses, 183 - -Arms, Greenwell, 225 - ----- Lumley, 242 - -Associations of John Wesley, Durham, 229-238 - -Asylum, Sunderland Orphan, 35 - -Auckland, brasses in St. Andrew’s, 180, 189 - ----- brass in St. Helen’s, 180, 190 - -Aucklandshire, 39 - -Aycliffe Church, 171 - - -Baker, Mrs. Sarah, 194 - -Bale Hill, 218 - -Balliol, Bernard de, 213 - ----- John, sometime King of Scotland, 213 - -Ballads, Robert Surtees’, 65 - -Bank, 105 - -Barbara, Bishop William de St., 30 - -Barnard Castle, 40, 213 - ----- ---- Church, 170, 185 - -Barnes, Mrs. Fridesmond, 189 - -Baronial houses, 239 - -Barons of the Bishopric, 3, 11 - -Barrow at Copt Hill, 182 - -Bateses of Wolsingham, 256 - -Battle of Neville’s Cross, 41 - -Baydale inn, 24 - -Bayley, K. C., 7 - -Beaumont, Lewis, Bishop-elect of Durham, 27, 28 - -Bede, Venerable, 4, 36 - ----- at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, 146-151 - -Bede’s chair, Jarrow, 54 - ----- tomb, 123 - ----- Well, Monkton, 55 - -Bellasis, 218 - -Bell, Durham Curfew, 63 - ----- Pancake, 56 - -Billingham Church, 172 - -Binchester, Roman camp at, 4 - ----- Roman epitaph at, 183 - -Birthdays folk-lore, 46 - -Biscop, Benedict, 4, 36, 147, 149, 150 - -Bishop Aldhun, 109 - ----- Auckland, 39 - ----- ---- Palace, 200 - ----- Cosin, 20, 120, 179 - ----- Crewe, 21, 204 - ----- Flambard, 8, 40, 118, 133 - ----- James, 206 - ----- Middleham, 222 - ----- ---- Church, 180 - ----- Philip de Pictavia, 172 - ----- Pudsey, 9-33, 37, 38, 134, 166, 195, 202, 241 - ----- Walcher, 6-7, 30, 32, 36, 156 - ----- William of St. Carileph, 7, 30, 110, 114, 118, 158, 166 - -Bishopric, Barons of the, 3, 11 - ----- of Durham, 1, 2, 81 - -Bishop’s revenue, 11 - -Bishopwearmouth effigy, 185 - -Black Death, the, 12-13 - -Blackett family, 252 - ----- Sir Edward, 75 - -Blakeston of Blakeston, 188 - -Blakiston, 222 - ----- Sir William, 212 - -Blenkinsopps of Hoppyland, 252 - -Boar, the Pollard, 68-71, 74 - -Bogs, 101 - -Boldon Book, 9, 30, 38, 39, 42, 241 - ----- Church, 176 - -Bolihope, 91 - ----- Roman altars at, 80 - -Bowes of Streatlam, 253 - ----- Sir George, 41 - ----- Sir William, 214, 216 - -Boyne, Lord, 255 - -Bradley, Ralph, 194 - -Brae, 105 - -Brag, the Picktree, 76-78 - -Brancepeth, 41 - ----- Castle, 203 - ----- Church, 179 - -Brass, Chester-le-Street Church, 190 - ----- Haughton-le-Skerne, 191 - ----- Hoton, William, 168, 190 - ----- Houghton-le-Spring, 191 - ----- Brasses, monumental, 189 - ----- Sedgefield Church, 168, 190, 191, 192, 193 - -Bridge, Prebend’s, 52 - ----- Tyne, 34 - -Brigantes, occupation by, 4 - -Brocks, 91-92 - -Bronze Age, 182 - -Brow, 105 - -Brown, Dame Dorothy, 26 - -Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, 224 - -Bruce, Robert de, 37 - ----- tombs, 196 - -Brunskill, Thomas, 222 - -Bruses (De), tomb of, 165 - -Bulmer, Bertram de, 203 - ----- family, 247 - ----- stone, 25 - -Burdon family, 251 - ----- John, 224 - -Burns, 91-92 - -Butler, Bishop, 22 - -"Butterby churchgoer," 64 - -"Butter Cross," Ravensworth, 212 - -Byerley, Colonel Anthony, 224 - -"Byerley’s Bull Dogs," 224 - - -Carileph, Bishop William of St., 7, 30, 110, 114, 118, 158, 166 - -Carling Sunday, 57 - -Castle Barnard, 213 - ----- Brancepeth, 203 - ----- Durham, 204-207 - ----- Eden, 216 - ----- Hilton, 187, 210, 211 - ----- Lambton, 74, 209 - ----- Lumley, 207-208 - ----- Raby, 214, 215 - ----- Ravensworth, 211, 212 - ----- Stanhope, 198 - ----- Streatlam, 213, 214 - ----- Walworth, 215 - ----- Witton, 199 - -Castles and Halls of Durham, 198-228 - ----- the, 79 - -Cathedral brasses, Durham, 190-191 - ----- Durham, 3, 7, 12, 18, 108-129 - ----- local lore of Durham, 63 - -Cau’d Lad of Hilton, the, 71-73 - -Cave, Heatheryburn, 79 - -Ceolfrid, Abbot, 149, 150 - -Chancery Proceedings, Durham, 241 - -Chanter, John the, 149, 161 - -Chapel, "Galilee," 122 - ----- Lady, 122, 138 - ----- Nine Altars, 125, 135 - ----- of St. Hilda, first, 36 - ----- St. John’s, 42 - -Charter, Bishop Hugh Pudsey’s, Durham, 30 - -Chaytor family, 240, 254 - -Chester-le-Street, 5, 32, 108, 109, 130, 131 - ----- Church, 177, 186 - -Cheyne, John, sculptor, 187 - -Christian the Mason, 195 - -"Churchgoer, Butterby," 64 - -Churches at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, Saxon, 147 - ----- of Durham, parish, 162-181 - -Civil War, outbreak of, 20 - -Claverings of Axwell, 256 - -Cleatlam Hall, 221 - -Clergy, secular, 109 - -Cleughs, 95-96 - -Cleve’s Cross, 68 - -Clopton, John, 220 - -_Club, Hell-fire_, 204 - -Codex Amiatinus, 151 - -Coldingham, Richard de, 173 - -College, Ushaw, 192 - -Commission, Ecclesiastical, 18, 23 - -Common, 105 - -Coniscliffe, Church of St. Edwin, 172 - -Convent of SS. Peter and Paul, 147 - -Conyers falchion, 75, 217 - ----- family, 247 - ----- Nicolas, 195 - -Conyers, Ralph, 223 - ----- Sir John, 74 - -Copt Hill, Houghton-le-Spring, 182 - -Cosin, Bishop, 20, 120, 179 - -Cotham Conyers, 222 - ----- Stob, 222 - -Council of the North, 16 - -Cow, the Dun, 66-67 - -Coxhoe Hall, 224 - -Cradock family, 222 - -Craft gilds, 31 - -Craggs family, 83 - -Crawford, Jack, 35 - -Crayke, 108 - -Crewe, Bishop, 21, 204 - -Cross at Darlington Market, 25, 26 - ----- at Ravensworth, 212 - ----- Battle of Neville’s, 41 - ----- Butter, 212 - ----- Cleve’s, 28, 68 - ----- Neville’s, 55, 58 - -Crosses, 107 - ----- Anglo-Saxon memorial, 183 - ----- Billingham pre-Conquest, 172 - ----- Saxon, 26 - -Cumin, Robert, Earl of Northumberland, 29 - -Curfew Bell, Durham, 63 - -Cuthbert, St., 5, 133, 152, 155 - ----- Feast of the Translation of St., 29 - ----- Patrimony of St., 5, 6, 17 - ----- sanctuary of St., 24 - - -Dalden Tower, 216 - -Dale, Helen Pelham, 234 - ----- _Life and Letters of Thomas Pelham_, 234 - ----- Miss Margaret, 230 - ----- of Dalton-le-Dale, family of, 238 - ----- of Tunstall, Edward, 230 - ----- Rev. Thomas, 229 - ----- Rev. Thomas Pelham, 229 - -Dales, name-places in the Durham, 79-107 - -Dalton Church, 175 - -Darcy, Lady Maxwell, 235 - -Darlington Church tower, 166 - ----- market-cross at, 25, 26 - ----- rood-loft, 167 - ----- St. Cuthbert’s Church, 165 - -"Darnton Trod," 24 - -Day, New Year’s, 56 - -Days, lucky, 57 - -Death, portents of, 51 - -"Death, power of life and," 1, 11 - -Delavale, Peter, 194 - -Denes, 91 - -Dens, 101 - -Derwentdale Plot, 21 - -Dinsdale, 217 - ----- Church brass, 190 - -Dog-tooth ornament, only instance of, 167 - -Douthwaite family, 222 - -Duck, Sir John, 63, 227 - -Dun Cow, the, 66-67 - -Durham, 5-6, 28, 109 - ----- Bishopric of, 1-2 - ----- Castle, 204-207 - ----- Cathedral: - altar of Our Lady of Pity, 124; - altar screen, 121; - altars in north transept, 124; - Bede’s tomb, 123; - Bishop’s throne, 123; - brasses, 190-191; - Carileph’s choir, 113; - chapter-house, 127; - choir, 114-115; - cloister, 127-128; - crypt, 111-113; - doorways, 113; - fresco paintings, 123; - Galilee Chapel, 122; - Hatfield’s tomb, 121; - ironwork, 118; - Lady Chapel, 122; - library, 127-128; - local lore of, 63; - monks’ dormitory, 128; - nave, 114; - Neville chantry, 124; - Neville screen, 122; - nine altars, 125-126; - refectory, 111, 127-128; - sanctuary knocker, 118; - towers, 120; - transepts, 116; - treasury, 127 - ----- curfew bell, 63 - ----- fall of abbey, 16 - ----- first Lord, 209 - ----- Lewis Beaumont, Bishop-elect of, 27, 28 - ----- local volunteer companies, 206 - ----- North Gate, 13 - ----- Palatinate of, 9, 19 - ----- prosperity of Methodism in, 22 - ----- St. Giles’s Church, 173, 185 - ----- St. Margaret’s Church, 173, 185 - ----- St. Oswald’s Church, 172 - ----- School, 22, 23 - ----- spires, 166 - ----- trades, 21, 22 - ----- University of, 22, 23 - - -"Eade stones," 80 - -Eales, 99 - -Earl of Northumberland, Robert Cumin, 29 - -Earls, rebellion of the, 18 - -Easington Church, 175, 186 - -Ebchester, Roman camp at, 4 - -Ecclesiastical Commission, 18, 23 - -Eden family, 240, 248-249 - -Edmundbyres Cross, 107 - -Effigy at Bishopwearmouth, 185 - ----- at Norton, 187 - ----- of Euphemia de Neville, 169 - ----- of Isabel de Neville, 169 - ----- of Isabella, sister of Robert Bruce, 196 - ----- in Barnard Castle Church, 185 - ----- Lanchester Church, 187 - ----- St. Giles’s Church, Durham, 185 - ----- Whitburn Church, singular, 188 - -Effigies in Easington Church, 175, 186 - ----- in Hurworth Church, 186 - ----- in Redmarshall Church, 172, 188 - ----- stone and wood, 185-189 - -Egelwin, Bishop, 29 - -Egglescliffe Church, 172 - -Elizabethan Poor Law, 19 - -Elvet, 28, 30 - -Epitaph of Regina, wife of Barates the Palmyrene, 182, 183 - ----- of Tidfirth, Bishop of Hexham, 184 - -Epitaphs, punning, 197 - -Escomb Church, 159, 163 - -Estfelde, William, 189 - -Eures family, 239 - -Evenwood, 39 - -Ewbanke family, 221 - - -Fairy Hills, Castleton, 45 - -Falchion, Conyers, 75, 217 - -Families of Durham, Old, 239-256 - -Fast, St. Agnes’s, 53 - -Feast of the Translation of St. Cuthbert, 29 - -Fell, 105 - -Fen Hall, 224 - -Ferryhill, 28 - -Ferry, Roger de, 68 - -"Fig sue," 57 - -Finchale Priory, 130-145 - -Fire festivals, 44 - -First charter of incorporation, Durham, 31 - -First lifeboat built at South Shields, 36 - ----- passenger railway-line, 26 - -Flambard, Bishop Ralph, 8, 40, 118, 133 - -Flask, the, 101 - -Flodden, banner of St. Cuthbert at, 15 - -Fogg-Elliots of Elvet Hill, 256 - -Folk-lore, Durham, 44-64 - -Font, Sedgefield, 167 - ----- Staindrop, 169 - -Ford Hall, 226 - -Forest of Weardale, 39 - -Fothergill, G. A., 224 - -Fox, Bishop Richard, 14 - -Framwellgate, 29 - -Frosterley, 84 - -Furmety, 59 - - -Gabriel Hounds, 45 - -Gainford Church, 171 - ----- grave-cover, 193 - ----- Hall, 222 - -Galilee Chapel, Durham, 122 - -"Garland, maiden," 52 - -Gateshead, 32 - ----- St. Mary’s, Church, 176 - ----- grave-covers, 193 - -Gibside, 212 - -Gild, craft, 31 - -Gills, 95-97 - -Gilpin, altar-tomb of Bernard, 194, 195 - -Glory, Hand of, 45 - -Godric, St., 130-132, 173 - ----- shrine of St., 138 - -Goodchild of Pallion, John, 230 - -Grace, Pilgrimage of, 16 - -Grains, 91-92 - -Grange, Lambton, 209 - ----- Midridge, 224 - ----- Raby, 222 - -Grave-covers, 192-193 - ----- stones, Roman, 182 - -Great Aycliffe, 27 - -Greatham Hospital, 189 - ----- old chapel at, 186 - -Great North Road, 24 - -Greenwell arms, 225 - -Greenwell family, 244-246 - -Greenwells of Broomshields, 247 - -"Guisers," or mummers, 58 - - -Hall, Bishop Middleham, 222 - ----- Blakiston, 222 - -Hall, Cleatlam, 221 - ----- Cotham Conyers, 222, 223 - ----- Coxhoe, 224 - ----- Fen, 224 - ----- Ford, 226 - ----- Gainford, 222 - ----- Holmside, 219 - ----- Houghton-le-Spring, 228 - ----- Kibblesworth, 227 - ----- Middleton St. George, 224 - ----- Pallion, 226 - ----- School Aycliffe, 224 - ----- Sledwish, 220 - ----- Snotterton, 221 - ----- Staindrop, 221 - ----- Stanhope, 199 - ----- Stella, 228 - ----- Thornton, 224 - ----- Thorpe Thewles, old, 222 - ----- Washington, 225 - ----- West Boldon, 226 - ----- Westholme, 222 - ----- West Rainton, 227 - -Hallow E’en sports, 58 - -Halls and Castles of Durham, 198-228 - -Halmote Rolls, 241 - -Hand of Glory, 45 - -Harding the Chronicler, Ralph, 218 - -Hartlepool, 37 - ----- Church, 163 - ----- ---- brass, 191 - ----- West, 38 - -Hatfield, Bishop, 3 - ----- Survey, 241 - -Haugh, 105 - -Haughton-le-Skerne Church, 171 - -Havelock, birthplace of General, 226 - ----- Sir Henry, 35 - -Heatheryburn Cave, 79 - -Heighington Church, 171, 186 - -_Hell-Fire Club_, the, 204 - -Hell Kettles, 24 - -Heraldry, the Manche in, 251 - -Heralds’ Visitations, 239 - -Heslerigg, Sir Arthur, 201 - -High Barnes, Sunderland, 226 - -Highwaymen of the North, 24 - -Hilda, 4 - ----- first religious house of St., 36 - -Hilton Castle, 187, 210, 211 - ----- John, 210 - ----- Sir Thomas, 210 - ----- the Cau’d Lad of, 71-73 - -Hilton’s tomb, Monkwearmouth, 187 - -Hob of Pelaw, 64 - -Hodgson, Rev. J. F., 167 - -Holden, Sir Thomas, 218 - -Hole, 106 - -Hollinside, 218 - -Holms, 100 - -Holmside Hall, 219 - -Hooks, 106 - -Hopes, 88-92 - -Hopper, J. T. H., 200 - -"Hot cross buns," 57 - -Hot Hill, 101 - -Hoton brass, William, 168, 190 - -Houghton-le-Spring, 34 - ----- Church, 174 - ----- Hall, 228 - -Hounds, Gabriel, 45 - -Hulme, Nicholas, 189 - -Hunter family, 249 - -Hurworth Church, 172, 186 - -Hutchinson family, 256 - -Hutton, Robert, 195, 228 - - -Incorporation, Durham’s first charter of, 31 - -Inn, Baydale, 24 - -Inscriptions, monumental, 182-197 - -Intake, 107 - -Isabella, sister of Robert Bruce, effigy of, 196 - -Isle, The, 220 - - -James, Bishop, 206 - -James family, 225 - -Jarrow, 146-161 - -Jarrow, monastery of, 4, 16 - -John the Chanter, 149, 161 - - -Kellaw, Bishop, 24 - -Kelyng, John, 189 - -Kerns, 98 - -Kettles, Hell, 24 - -Kibblesworth Hall, 227 - -Killhope Cross, 107 - ----- Moor, 42 - -Knocker, sanctuary, 118-119 - - -Lady Byron’s Well, Seaham, 55 - -Lady Chapel, Durham, 122, 138 - -Lad of Hilton, the Cau’d, 71-73 - -Lambton Castle, 74, 209 - ----- Grange, 209 - ----- William Henry, 209 - ----- Worm, the, 73, 74, 134 - ----- ---- Well, 54 - -Lambtons of Lambton, 240, 243-244 - -Lanchester Church, 171, 179 - ----- Roman camp at, 4 - -Langley, Bishop, 31, 34 - -Law, Elizabethan Poor, 19 - -Lawrence of Durham, 8 - ----- Rev. John, 230 - -Lee, Mary, 194 - -Legends of Durham, 65-78 - -Leighton, Henry, 209 - -Letters of John Wesley to Margaret Dale, 231-237 - -Lewen, Margaret, 231, 233 - -Ley, 103 - -Liddell family, 240, 252 - -"Life and death, power of," 1, 11 - -Lifeboat, first, 36 - -Lilburne family, 35 - -Lindisfarne, 108, 152 - ----- monastery of, 4, 5 - -Linns, 98 - -Little Eden Tower, 216 - -Local lore of Durham Cathedral, 63 - -Londonderry, Marquess of, 220 - -Low Barnes, Sunderland, 226 - -Luck, spitting for, 61 - -Lucky and unlucky things, 59-61 - ----- days, 57 - -Ludworth Tower, 218 - -Lumley arms, 242 - ----- Castle, 207, 208 - ----- tombs, Chester-le-Street, 178, 186 - -Lumleys of Lumley, 241-243 - - -"Maiden garland," 52 - -Manche in heraldry, the, 251 - -Market-cross at Darlington, 25, 26 - -Mark, Vigil of St., 51 - -Material for tombstones, 196-197 - -Mathew, Michael, 189 - -Mea, 106 - -"Mell-supper," 58 - -Melsamby, Prior Thomas of, 135 - -Memorial brasses, Billingham, 172 - ----- crosses, Anglo-Saxon, 183 - -Methodism in Durham, 22 - -Middleton, brass of William de, 189 - ----- of Silksworth, George, 230 - ----- St. George, 224 - ----- Sir Gilbert, 28 - ----- Thomas, of Chillingham, 185 - -Midridge Grange, 224 - -Mitford family, 70 - -Monkchester, 156 - -Monkwearmouth, 36, 146-161 - -Monumental brass, Haughton-le-Skerne, 171 - ----- brasses, 189 - ----- inscriptions, 182-197 - -Moor, Killhope, 42 - -Mortham, Robert de, 185 - -Motto, the Jameses’, 206 - -Mulberry Inn, Felling, 226 - - -Names of streams, 83 - -Naunton, Elizabeth, Prioress of Neasham, 171 - -"Need-fire," working for, 54 - -Neile, Bishop, 19, 20 - -Neolithic men, 182 - -Neville family, 239 - ----- Geoffrey de, 203 - ----- Henry, Earl of Northumberland, 170 - ----- monuments, Staindrop, 168 - ----- Ralph, Earl of Northumberland, 170, 214 - ----- screen, 121-122, 138 - ----- tombs, Staindrop, 185 - -Neville’s Cross, 12, 55, 58 - ----- ---- Battle of, 41 - -New Year’s Day, 56 - -Nine Altars Chapel, 125, 135 - -"Nominy sayer," 50 - -Norman tower, Jarrow, 161 - -North, Council of the, 16 - ----- Gate, Durham, 13 - -Northumberland, Robert Cumin, Earl of, 29 - -Norton Church, 172 - ----- effigy at, 187 - - -Old Families of Durham, 239-256 - -Ords of Sands Hall, 252 - -Orphan Asylum, Sunderland, 35 - - -Palace, Bishop Auckland, 200 - -Palatinate of Durham, 9, 19 - -Pallion Hall, 226 - -Pancake Bell, 56 - ----- Tuesday, 56 - -Parish churches of Durham, 162-181 - -Park (De) arms, 188 - -"Parson, the Pickled," 76 - -Passenger railway-line, first, 26 - -Patrimony of St. Cuthbert, 5-6, 17 - -Pelaw, Hob of, 64 - -Pemberton of Bainbridge, John, 230 - -Pembertons of Belmont Hall, 256 - -Pictavia, Bishop Philip de, 172 - -Pictree Brag, the, 76-78 - -Pike, 105 - -Pilgrimage of Grace, 16 - -Pittington Church, 173 - -Place, Francis, 224 - -Plain, 105 - -Plot, Derwentdale, 21 - -Pollard Boar, the, 68-71, 74 - ----- family, 68, 71 - -Pools, 98 - -Poor Law, Elizabethan, 19 - -Portents of death, 51 - -"Power of life and death," 1, 11 - -Prebendaries of Durham, 19 - -Prebend’s Bridge, Durham, 52 - -Pre-Reformation chancel screen, Staindrop, 169 - -Prior Thomas of Melsamby, 135 - -Priory, Finchale, 130-145 - -Pudsey, Bishop, 9, 33, 37, 38, 134, 166, 195, 202, 241 - ----- Durham Charter of, 30 - ----- Henry de, 134 - -Pulpit, Heighington Church, 186 - -Punning epitaphs, 197 - - -Quaint sepulchral inscriptions, 194 - - -Raby Castle, 214, 215 - ----- Grange, 222 - -Railway-line, first passenger, 26 - -Ravenshelm, 212 - -Ravensworth Castle, 211, 212 - ----- cross at, 212 - -Rebellion of the Earls, 18 - -Redmarshall Church, 172 - -Revenue, Bishop’s, 11 - -Ridding, 102 - -Rig, 105 - -Road, Great North, 24 - -Rolls, Halmote, 241 - -Roman altars at Bolihope, 80 - ----- camps in Durham, 4 - ----- gravestones, 182 - ----- roads, 4, 130 - -Rood-loft, Darlington, 167 - ----- Staindrop, 169 - -Roses, Wars of the, 14 - -Royal Oak Day, 57 - -Rudde brass, John, 192 - -Rushyford, 27 - -Ruthall, Bishop, 15 - -Ryton Church, 177 - -Sadberge, wapentake of, 9-14, 38 - -St. Cuthbert’s Church, Darlington, 165 - -St. Mary’s Church, Monkwearmouth, 149 - -Salvins of Croxdale, 240, 251 - -Sanctuary knocker, 118-119 - ----- of St. Cuthbert, 24 - -Saxon chancel, Jarrow, 161 - ----- church at Escomb, 157 - ----- churches at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, 147 - ----- crosses, 26 - ----- suffixes, 81 - -"Sayer, Nominy," 50 - -School Aycliffe, 224 - ----- Durham, 22, 23 - -Screen, Neville, 121-122, 138 - -Seat, 104 - -Secular clergy, 109 - -Sedgefield, 38 - ----- Church, 167 - ----- ---- brasses in, 190, 191, 192, 193 - ----- Rectory, 76 - -Seventh sons, 49 - -"Shafto, Bobby," 42 - ----- family, 250 - -Shaftos of Tanfield Leigh, 250 - -Shaw, 101 - -Sherburn Hospital, 189 - -Shield Lawe, 36 - -Shields, South, 36 - ----- ---- St. Hilda’s Church, 176 - -"Shout the mell," 58 - -Shrine of St. Godric, 138 - -Side, 106 - -Sikes or Sykes, 95-98 - -Skelton, Roger, 72 - -Snotterton Hall, 221 - -Sockburn, 217 - ----- Worm, the, 74-76 - -Solomon’s Temple, 148 - -Spires, Durham, 166 - -"Spitting for luck," 61 - -Spring, legend of Sir John le, 65 - -Staindrop, 40 - ----- Church, 168 - ----- Hall, 221 - -Stanhope, 42, 84, 85 - ----- Castle, 198 - ----- Hall, 199 - ----- treasure of, 79 - -Stanley, Andrew de, 168 - -Stella Hall, 228 - -Stevenson family, 249 - -Stockton, 38 - -Stone and wood effigies, 185-189 - ----- Bulmer, 25 - ----- cross, 28 - ----- crosses, 107 - -Streams, names of, 83 - -Streatlam Castle, 213, 214 - -Sunderland, 34 - ----- Orphan Asylum, 35 - ----- of Dinsdale, 247-248 - ----- Robert, 28, 246, 248 - -Surtees, Robert, ballads, 65 - -Symbolism on grave-covers, 193 - -Symeon of Durham, 111 - - -Tailbois, family of, 224 - -Tempest, Colonel John, 220 - ----- family, 219, 254 - -Temple, Solomon’s, 148 - -Theodore of Tarsus, 162 - -Things lucky and unlucky, 59-61 - -Thornton Hall, 224 - -Thorpe Thewles old hall, 222 - -Tidfirth, Bishop of Hexham, epitaph, 184 - ----- of a deacon in Ryton Church, 188 - -Tomb of De Bruses, 165 - ----- Venerable Bede’s, 123 - -Tombs, Bruce, 196 - ----- Lumley, Chester-le-Street, 178, 186 - ----- Neville, 185 - -Tombstones, material for, 196-197 - -Tower, Dalden, 216 - ----- Darlington Church, 166 - ----- Little Eden, 216 - ----- Ludworth, 218 - ----- Monkwearmouth Church, 153 - ----- Staindrop Church, 169 - -Trades, Durham, 21, 22 - -Translation of St. Cuthbert, Feast of the, 29 - -Trotters of Helmdon, 256 - -Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, 16 - -Tyne Bridge, 34 - - -University of Durham, 22, 23 - -Unlucky, things lucky and, 59 - -Ushaw College, 192 - - -Vane family, 240 - -Van Mildert, Dr., 75 - -Vigil of St. Mark, 51 - -Visitation of Northumberland, 240 - ----- of Shropshire, 240 - ----- of York, 240 - -Visitations, Heralds’, 239 - - -Walcher, Bishop, 6, 7, 30, 32, 36, 156 - -Waltheof, Earl of Northumbria, 6 - -Walworth Castle, 215 - -Warbeck, advance of, 15 - -War, Civil, 20 - -Wars of the Roses, 14 - -Washington Hall, 225 - -Washingtons of Washington, 254 - -Watson, Edward, 222 - -Weardale, 79 - ----- Forest of, 39 - -Wearmouth, 34 - ----- monastery of, 4, 16 - -Weather-lore, 55 - -Weddings, 50 - -Well, Lady Byron’s, 55 - ----- Lambton Worm, 54, 73, 74 - ----- Venerable Bede’s, 55 - -Wells, 94-95 - -Wesley, Durham associations of John, 22, 229-238 - -West Boldon Hall, 226 - -West Rainton Hall, 227 - -Westholme Hall, 222 - -Wharton family, 240, 251 - -Whitburn Church, 176 - -Whitefield, George, 235 - -Whittingham, William, Dean of Durham, 220 - -Wilkinsons of Durham, 256 - -William of St. Carileph, Bishop, 7, 30, 110, 114, 118, 158, 166 - -Williamson family, 255 - -Wills, 241 - -Winston Church, 171 - -Witchcraft, 45 - -Witton Castle, 199 - -Wolsingham, 42 - -Wood and stone effigies, 185-189 - ----- punning epitaph on Ralph, 197 - -Worm, the Lambton, 73, 74, 134 - ----- the Sockburn, 74-76 - ----- Well, the, 54, 73, 74 - - -"Yule dollies," 59 - - -BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD - -Selections from - -George Allen & Sons’ List - -MEMORIALS OF THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND - -GENERAL EDITOR - -REV. P. H. DITCHFIELD M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.HIST.S. - -_Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top. Price 15s. -net each._ - - -Memorials of Old Oxfordshire. - - Edited by the Rev. P. H. DITCHFIELD, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind - permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G. - -"This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of ‘the wondrous -Oxford,’ to which so many distinguished scholars and politicians look -back with affection. We must refer the reader to the volume itself ... -and only wish that we had space to quote extracts from its interesting -pages."--_Spectator._ - - -Memorials of Old Devonshire. - - Edited by F. J. SNELL, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the - Right Hon. 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For full particulars of the 38 Volumes, for =£42= the set, or -in Monthly Instalments, see Prospectus. - - -George Allen & Sons, Ruskin House -Rathbone Place, London - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Freeman, _Norman Conquest_, i. 321. The Empire, of course, means -that great medieval constitution of Central Europe corresponding very -roughly indeed to Germany. The German Empire, as we know it, only dates -from 1870. - -[2] This important matter, with its bearing upon the Palatinate Power, -was first noticed by Mr. K. C. Bayley, _Victoria County History_, ii. -137. - -[3] See Dr. Lapsley’s book, _The County Palatine of Durham_, which -forms a very able survey of the development of the whole system. - -[4] Dr. Lapsley describes Boldon Book in the _Victoria County History -of Durham_, vol. i. See also ii. 179. - -[5] See Dr. Bradshaw’s account of the Black Death and its effect in the -_Victoria County History_, ii. 209-222. - -[6] No account of the legends of Durham would be complete without some -note upon Robert Surtees’ ballads, several of which he foisted upon the -unsuspecting Walter Scott as genuine antiques. Perhaps the most weird -and effective is the one generally known as the "Legend of Sir John le -Spring," the scene of which is in Houghton, the _alma mater_ of the -poet’s own schoolboy days. One or two of the verses, which are well -known in the North, run: - - "Pray for the sowle of Sir John-le-Spring, - When the black monks sing-- - And the Vesper bells ring; - Pray for the sprite of a murdered Knight, - Pray for the sowle of Sir John-le-Spring. - He fell not, before the....--♰ - The waning crescent fled, - When the Martyr’s palm and golden crown - Reward Christ’s soldier dead. - - "He fell not in the battle-field, - Beneath St. George’s banner bright, - When the pealing cry of victory-- - Might cheer the sowle of a dying knight; - But at dead of night, in the soft moonlight, - In his garden bower--he lay; - And the dew of sleep, did his eyelids steep - In the arms of his leman gay. - - "And by murderous hand, and bloody brand, - In that guilty bower-- - With his paramour, - Did his sowle from his body fleet, - And through mist and mirk, and moonlight gray, - Was forc’d away from the bleeding clay, - To the dreaded judgment seat." - - -[7] This is proved by an inquest taken at Hilton in that year. _Cf._ -Bishop Swaby’s _History of the Hiltons of Hilton Castle_, p. 39. - -[8] _The River-Names of Europe_, pp. 33, 34. - -[9] Pudsey commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the -church which, as was said, St. Cuthbert shook down. - -[10] About the year 1800 the whole cathedral underwent a process of -chiselling, in order to render the surface uniform. This was done -under the superintendence of Wyatt, and in some parts four inches in -depth were removed by the operation. The evidence of this is apparent -in several places on the north side of the choir and nave, where, in -consequence of the soil having accumulated several feet in height, that -part of the building has escaped being pared down. What has been the -result is shown there in the nook shafts of the arcade, which have been -reduced from a due proportion to one most inadequate. - -[11] It is possible that Basire, whose words are rather curious, simply -means that he destroyed the chapels. He speaks of them as "being blown -up by Sir Arthur Haslerig in the Gunpowder Plot of the late Rebellion." - -[12] Some years before 1834, when Mackenzie wrote, a portion of it had -been "converted into a respectable and substantial house," and was then -the residence of Mr. Henry Morton, Lord Durham’s agent. In or about -1875 the house underwent further changes, and has now for many years -been known as Lambton Grange. There is, however, another building in -the Park, locally known as the old Hall, and at one time used as a -brewery, which may represent some intermediate residence. - -[13] The above account of Lambton Castle is abridged from an address -given by the late Henry Leighton of Lambton Grange, when acting as -chairman at the dinner given to the workmen on the completion of the -restoration of Lambton Castle, January 18, 1868. - -[14] A somewhat similar building is at Bale Hill, near Wolsingham. - -[15] A considerable portion of the Tower fell in February, 1890, -leaving portions of the west and south walls still standing. - -[16] So Surtees sayeth. _A falcon on a tun_ was the family crest. - -[17] The tablet in the church which Surtees noted to the memory of -William James has disappeared. There is a large marble tablet on the -north wall to the memory of James Brack and his three wives, which -reads rather curiously owing to the major portion of the inscriptions -having been raised and the panel containing his name inserted last. At -the foot the family arms have been emblazoned, a scarlet shield, having -apparently a passant lion of the same colour on a silver chief, and -impaling the sable shield with the engrailed fess and silver hands of -the Bates. The colours are badly rubbed and will not survive many more -cleanings. - -[18] The late Mr. Boyle described the house as "ugly," an opinion we -cannot agree with. If not beautiful, it is certainly a handsome old -building. - -[19] The writer of this chapter would be very grateful if any reader -who should chance to know where the other letters are would communicate -with him. - -[20] See _Dictionary of National Biography_, for Canon Dale, vol. -xiii.; for Thomas Pelham Dale, _ibid._, supplement, vol. ii. - -[21] The descendants of George Dale, the elder brother of Ralph Dale, -this Edward Dale’s great grandfather, were apparently extinct in -the male line by 1750, although George Dale, by his marriage with -Elizabeth, daughter of John Lively, Vicar of Kelloe, 1625-56, had at -least three sons alive in March, 1655-56--namely, Edward, John, and -Anthony. - -[22] See the paper on John Lawrence in vol. iv. of the Proceedings of -the Sunderland Antiquarian Society. - -[23] The letter has appeared in a privately printed magazine, the -_Family News_. See British Museum catalogue, under "Periodicals: -Northwood." - -[24] See _A Christian Sketch of Lady Maxwell_, by Robert Bourne. -London, 1819. - -[25] When he was in America, he had proposed to and been rejected -by a Miss Hopkey in 1757, and in 1748 he had been engaged to a Miss -Murray, so that his opinion of the advantage of celibacy had known some -variation. - -[26] See _Dictionary of National Biography_, vol. ii. - -[27] Their early pedigree has been printed in detail by the Rev. -William Greenwell in the seventh volume of the _New History of -Northumberland_. Their later descents have been fully dealt with, so -far as Raby and this county are concerned, by Surtees. It therefore -seems needless, in a limited volume like this, to retrace their -fortunes already so well traced. See also an interesting account of the -family by another local writer in _The House of Neville in Sunshine and -Shade_. - -[28] For an interesting note upon the Eures, rather apt to be -overlooked, see the _Archæological Journal_, 1860, p. 218. The family -motto was _Vince malum bono_. - -[29] Readers interested in the Visitations should read Mr. George -Grazebrooke’s very interesting introduction to the Harleian Society’s -_Visitation of Shropshire_, 1623 (vol. xxviii.). Commenting upon a -similar state of affairs in that county, he says: "Such names shew that -although it is very pleasant to a family to find their descents duly -recorded, still the absence of their name altogether from the list is -no proof whatever that their social position and heraldic rights were -not all the time perfectly well assured." - -[30] The origin of the Greenwells may be compared with an interesting -paper upon "Clerical Celibacy in the Diocese of Carlisle," by the Rev. -James Wilson, in _Northern Notes and Queries_, 1906, p. 1. - -[31] Another descent of the Blacketts from the Conyers has been pointed -out by the late Mr. Cadwallader Bates. _Cf._ his Letters, p. 124. - -[32] The Pemberton descent given in Burke’s _Landed Gentry_ needs -correction. _Cf._ Foster’s _Visitations of Durham_, p. 251, footnote 2. - - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -The Church from the North-west, Finchale Priory 136=> The Church from -the North-west, Finchale Priory 139 {pg xii} - -frequently occuring Celtic=> frequently occurring Celtic {pg 87} - -the orginal chancel=> the original chancel {pg 173} - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD DURHAM *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Leighton</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Memorials of old Durham</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Editor: Henry R. Leighton</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: October 1, 2022 [eBook #69079]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tim Lindell, Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD DURHAM ***</div> -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" -height="550" alt="[The image of -the book's cover is unavailable.]" /></a> -</p> - -<div class="blk"> -<table style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td class="c"> -<a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a><br /> -Some typographical errors have been corrected; -<a href="#transcrib">a list follows the text</a>.<br /> -<a href="#INDEX">Index</a><br /> -<a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span><br /><br /> -(etext transcriber's note)</td></tr> -</table> -</div> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcapl">Memorials of the Counties of England</span><br /> -General Editor:<br /> -<span class="smcap">Rev. P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.Hist.S. -<br /><br /><br /><br /> -<span class="smcapl">Memorials of Old Durham</span> -<br /><br /><br /><img src="images/colophon.jpg" -width="150" -alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_001" style="width: 404px;"> -<a href="images/i_frontispiece.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_frontispiece.jpg" width="404" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Durham Cathedral.</span></p> - -<p><i>From the Picture by J. M. W. Turner, R.A.</i></p></div> -</div> - -<div class="blk"> -<h1> -MEMORIALS OF OLD<br /> -DURHAM</h1> - -<p class="c">EDITED BY<br /> -HENRY R. LEIGHTON, F.R.<span class="smcap">Hist.</span>S.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">With many Illustrations</span><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/leaf.png" -width="50" -alt="" /> -<br /> -<br /> -<br /> -LONDON<br /> -GEORGE ALLEN & SONS, 44 & 45, RATHBONE PLACE, W.<br /> -<small>1910<br /> -[<i>All Rights Reserved</i>]</small></p> -</div> - -<div class="blk2"> -<p class="c"> -TO THE<br /> -<br /><span class="big"> -RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF DURHAM, K.G.,</span><br /> -<i>Lord-Lieutenant of the County Palatine of Durham</i>,<br /> -<br /> -THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY<br /> -<br /> -HIS KIND PERMISSION<br /></p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span>  </p> - -<h2><a id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE Palatinate of Durham possesses special claims to the attention of -students of history. It alone amongst the English counties was for -centuries ruled by Sovereign Bishops possessing their own peers, troops, -mint, and legal courts. In every respect it was a miniature kingdom, in -its constitution like only to the well-known Prince-Bishoprics of the -Continent.</p> - -<p>In the past the county has been favoured by a succession of historians, -who have dealt more or less fully with its parochial history. More -recently Dr. Lapsley and the contributors to the "Victoria History" have -minutely examined the various phases of its early constitution. In the -publications of the local archæological societies, the greater mansions -and most of the more interesting churches have been dealt with in -detail.</p> - -<p>In view, therefore, of the now considerable accumulated literature upon -the county, it has been a matter of no small difficulty to select -subjects which should be helpful to the scholar as well as interesting -to the general reader.</p> - -<p>It has been endeavoured to make this volume serve a twofold purpose. -Firstly, to awaken a greater interest in the past of this most historic -district, and secondly, to serve as an introduction to the greater -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span>histories of the county. Some day, perhaps, we may hope to see an -edition of Surtees’, revised to a recent date, and covering those -portions of the county which he did not live to deal with.</p> - -<p>Through the courtesy of the Earl of Durham we are enabled to reproduce -for the first time the portrait of William James, sometime Bishop of -Durham. Lord Strathmore has kindly enabled us to include the very -interesting photograph of Streatlam Castle. Thanks are also due to Mrs. -Greenwell, of Greenwell Ford, for the photograph of Fen Hall. Mr. J. -Tavenor-Perry has supplied the sketches of the cathedral sanctuary -knocker and the dun cow panel, besides the valuable measured drawings of -Finchale Priory. The remaining sketches in pen and ink have been -contributed by Mr. Wilfrid Leighton.</p> - -<p>In conclusion, in addition to thanking the contributors of the various -chapters for the care with which they have treated their subjects, -thanks are due to the Rev. William Greenwell and to the Rev. Dr. Gee, -who have both made useful suggestions.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table> -<tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#HISTORICAL_INTRODUCTION">Historical Introduction</a></td><td>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Henry Gee</span>, D.D., F.S.A.</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#TOPOGRAPHY_OF_DURHAM">Topography of Durham</a></td><td>By Miss <span class="smcap">M. Hope Dodds</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_24">24</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#FOLK-LORE_OF_THE_COUNTY_OF_DURHAM">Folk-lore of the County of Durham</a></td><td>By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Newton W. Apperley</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_44">44</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#THE_LEGENDS_OF_DURHAM">The Legends of Durham</a></td><td>By Miss <span class="smcap">Florence N. Cockburn</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_65">65</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#NAME-PLACES_IN_THE_DURHAM_DALES">Place-names in the Durham Dales</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">W. Morley Egglestone</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_79">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#DURHAM_CATHEDRAL">Durham Cathedral</a></td><td>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">William Greenwell</span>, M.A., etc.</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#FINCHALE_PRIORY">Finchale Priory</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">J. Tavenor-Perry</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#MONKWEARMOUTH_AND_JARROW">Monkwearmouth and Jarrow</a></td><td>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Douglas S. Boutflower</span>, M.A.</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#THE_PARISH_CHURCHES_OF_DURHAM">The Parish Churches of Durham</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">Wilfrid Leighton</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_162">162</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#MONUMENTAL_INSCRIPTIONS_OF_THE_COUNTY_OF_DURHAM">Monumental Inscriptions</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">Edwin Dodds</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#THE_CASTLES_AND_HALLS_OF_DURHAM">The Castles and Halls of Durham</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">Henry R. Leighton</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_198">198</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#DURHAM_ASSOCIATIONS_OF_JOHN_WESLEY">Durham Associations of John Wesley</a></td><td>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">T. Cyril Dale</span>, B.A.</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#THE_OLD_FAMILIES_OF_DURHAM">The Old Families of Durham</a></td><td>By <span class="smcap">Henry R. Leighton</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_239">239</a></td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#INDEX">257</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_x">{x}</a></span>  </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span>  </p> - -<h2><a id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table style="margin:1% 10%;"> -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_001">Durham Cathedral</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#ill_001"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From the picture by J. M. W. Turner, R.A.</i>)</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td class="rt"><span class="smcap">Page, or Facing Page</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_002">Portrait of William James, Bishop of Durham, 1606-1617</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_6">6</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From the painting at Lambton Castle</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_003">The Market-Cross at Darlington</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_25">25</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_004">An Old Tithe-barn at Durham</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_27">27</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_005">Bishop Pudsey’s Charter to the City of Durham, and Pope Alexander III.’s Confirmation thereof</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_30">30</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a copy made by Christopher Fawcett, of Newcastle, originally issued as one of the Allan Tracts</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_006">Jack Crawford’s Birth-place, Sunderland</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_35">35</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_007">The Palace, Bishop Auckland</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_38">38</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a drawing by W. Daniell, R.A.</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_008">Barnard Castle</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_40">40</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a drawing by E. Dayes</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_009">Brancepeth Castle in 1777</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_42">42</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From an old Print</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_010">The Palace Green, Durham</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_64">64</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From an old Print</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_011">The Dun Cow Panel, Durham Cathedral</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_67">67</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_012">Hilton Castle from the North</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_70">70</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_013">Lambton Castle, 1835</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_74">74</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From the picture by T. Allom</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_014">The Kepier Hospital</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_90">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_015">The Crypt, Durham Cathedral</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_016">The Sanctuary Knocker, Durham Cathedral</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_119">119</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_017">Durham Cathedral: The Western Towers from a window in the Monks’ Library</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a drawing by R. W. Billings, 1844</i>) -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_018">Piscina in Choir, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_135">135</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_019">Choir, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_137">137</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_020">The Church from the North-west, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_021">Plan of the Ruins of Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_022">Front of the Chapter House, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_141">141</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_023">Crypt under Refectory, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_024">The Prior’s Lodging, Finchale Priory</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_143">143</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_025">Monkwearmouth Church</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_026">Old Stone, Monkwearmouth</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_027">Ornamental Stonework, Monkwearmouth Cathedral</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_153">153</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_028">Jarrow Church</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a photograph by G. Hastings</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_029">Early English Snakes, Monkwearmouth Church</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_030">Norton Church</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_172">172</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_031">Boldon Spire</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_176">176</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_032">Anglo-Saxon Stone at Chester-le-Street</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_033">Witton Castle in 1779</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_198">198</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a contemporary print by Bailey</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_034">Lumley Castle</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_035">Hilton Castle: West Front</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_206">206</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_036">Old Tower at Ravensworth Castle</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_210">210</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_037">The Cross at Ravensworth</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_212">212</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_038">Streatlam Castle</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_214">214</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a photograph by E. Yeoman, Barnard Castle</i>)</td></tr> -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_039">Raby Castle in 1783</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_218">218</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a contemporary Print</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_040">Gainford Hall</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_041">The Old Hall at Thorpe Thewles</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_042">Fen Hall</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_224">224</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From a photograph by Mrs. Greenwell</i>)</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_043">A Corner of Washington Hall</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_225">225</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_044">The Doorway, West Rainton Hall</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_227">227</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_045">General John Lambton, 1710-1794</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_244">244</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From the portrait by G. Romney at Lambton Castle</i>)</td></tr> -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_046">Hoppyland Park</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"><a href="#ill_047">Portrait of Sir George Bowes</a></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_254">254</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="csml" colspan="2">(<i>From the painting at Streatlam Castle</i>)</td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_1">{1}</a></span>  </p> - -<h2><a id="HISTORICAL_INTRODUCTION"></a>HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By the Rev. Henry Gee, D.D., F.S.A., Master of University College, -Durham</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>N the older maps of England, that portion of the country which we call -the county of Durham is generally described as "Episcopatus -Dunelmensis," or the Bishopric of Durham, or simply the Bishopric. A -further glance at the adjacent districts of Northumberland and Yorkshire -shows that there are portions larger or smaller of those counties which -are marked as integral parts of Durham. These members of the Bishopric -are Norhamshire, Islandshire, and Bedlingtonshire in Northumberland, -with the Manors of Northallerton, Howden, and Crayke, and certain lands -adjacent to them in Yorkshire. These portions of the Bishopric were only -cut off from it and merged in their own surrounding counties within the -memory of persons still living. Indeed, the distinction between -Bishopric folk and County folk—that is to say, people of Durham and -people of Northumberland—is not yet quite forgotten, and looks back to -a very interesting piece of English history that has to do with a state -of things in the North of England which has now passed away.</p> - -<p>Visitors who come to the city of Durham to-day and look on cathedral and -castle have some vague idea of a time when the Bishop of Durham had "the -power of life and death," as it is popularly called; but what this -means, and what the peculiar constitution of the neighbourhood was, they -do not, as a rule, understand. It may be worth while to try and get a -clearer view of the Bishopric of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_2">{2}</a></span> Durham, and more especially of the -main portion between Tyne and Tees, which forms the modern county. We -to-day are so much accustomed to a strong central Government controlling -the whole of England, that we find it hard to think of a time when -certain districts had a large independence, and were ruled by a local -Earl or by Bishop, rather than by the King in the capital. Yet there -were such times both in England and upon the Continent. The district so -ruled is known as a franchise or liberty, and the history of its -independence, won, maintained, or lost, generally forms an attractive -subject of study, with many exciting episodes in it. The assertion is -certainly true of Durham; and although it is not possible to go into -detail within the space of an introductory article like this, it may be -possible to explain what the Bishopric was, and how it came to get its -distinctive characteristics and its later modification.</p> - -<p>The franchise of the Bishop of Durham may be most aptly understood if we -try to regard all the members of it mentioned above as a little kingdom, -of which Durham City was the capital. The Bishop of Durham was virtually -the King of this little realm, and ruled it, not only as its spiritual -head, but as its temporal head. As its spiritual head, he was in the -position of any ordinary Bishop, and possessed exactly the same powers -as other prelates. As its temporal head, he had a power which they -generally did not possess. Dr. Freeman has explained his position in the -following words: "The prelate of Durham became one and the more -important of the only two English prelates whose worldly franchises -invested them with some faint shadow of the sovereign powers enjoyed by -the princely Churchmen of the Empire. The Bishop of Ely in his island, -the Bishop of Durham in his hill-fortress, possessed powers which no -other English ecclesiastic was allowed to share.... The external aspect -of the city of itself suggests its peculiar character. Durham alone -among English cities, with its highest point crowned, not<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_3">{3}</a></span> only by the -cathedral, but by the vast castle of the Prince-Bishop, recalls to mind -those cities of the Empire—Lausanne, or Chur, or Sitten—where the -priest, who bore alike the sword and the pastoral staff, looked down -from his fortified height on a flock which he had to guard no less -against worldly than against ghostly foes."<a id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> And this sovereignty was -no nominal thing, for the Bishop came to have most of the institutions -that we connect with the thought of a kingdom. He had his own courts of -law, his own officers of state, his own assemblies, his own system of -finance, his own coinage, and, to some extent, he had his own troops and -his own ships. As we understand all this, we shall appreciate the -significance of the lofty throne erected by Bishop Hatfield in Durham -Cathedral. It was placed there in the flourishing days of the Bishop’s -power, and is not merely the seat of a Bishop, but the throne of a King. -So too, hard by, in the Bishop’s castle, as the chronicler tells us, -there were two seats of royalty within the hall, one at either end. No -doubt it was before the Bishop, sitting as Prince in one of these, that -the great tenants of his franchise—the Barons of the Bishopric, as they -were actually called—did homage in respect of their lands. Perhaps, -when he sat in the other from time to time as Bishop, his clergy and -others recognized his spiritual authority, or submitted themselves to -his "godly admonitions."</p> - -<p>The county of Durham has been marked out by nature, more or less -distinctly, as separate from the neighbouring counties. The Tees on the -south, and the Tyne on the north, with the Derwent running from the -western fells to the Tyne, sufficiently differentiate it. In what -follows we will keep mainly to the district represented by the modern -county, leaving out of view the members outside to which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_4">{4}</a></span> reference has -been made. Its history, until modern times, is largely ecclesiastical, -owing to its peculiar constitution, in which the Bishop plays so -important a part. It had, indeed, virtually no history until the Church -became the great civilizer in Northumbria. Its prehistoric remains are -few, if interesting. Its occupation by Brigantes, a Celtic tribe, is a -large fact with no details. In the days when Romans made the North of -Britain their own, there is still no history beyond the evidence of -Roman roads, with camps at Binchester, Lanchester, and Ebchester. -Certainly no Roman Christian remains have been found as yet; but when in -the seventh century Christianity came to the Anglian invaders who -settled in these parts after the departure of the Romans, the history of -the English people was born within the confines of the modern county. -Bede, the first of English scholars and writers, compiled his history in -the monastery of Jarrow. He tells us all we know of the earliest Durham -Christians—of Benedict Biscop and of Hilda, who, with himself, are the -first three historic personages in the district. In one pregnant -sentence he tells us how churches were built in different places, how -the people flocked together to hear the Word, and how landed possessions -were given by royal munificence to found monasteries. These monasteries -became the centres of religion, civilization, and learning all over -Northumbria; and, in particular, the monasteries of Jarrow and -Wearmouth, twin foundations of Benedict Biscop, were the commencement of -everything best worth having between Tyne and Tees.</p> - -<p>Thus religion, art, and literature, were born in Durham. In the last -years of the eighth century a terrible calamity fell upon the wider -province, of which Durham was only a part, when the Danes raided -Lindisfarne, where had been the starting-point of the Northumbrian -Church. When the mother was thus spoiled and laid desolate, the -daughters trembled for their safety, but they were left for awhile, not -unassailed, yet not destroyed. In those days of disturbed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_5">{5}</a></span> peace further -gifts of land were made to the Church, and in these we trace large -slices of Durham handed over in the ninth century to the monks of -Lindisfarne by those who had the power to give. And here we must notice -that the great treasure of the monastery at Lindisfarne was the body of -St. Cuthbert, the great Northumbrian saint, to whom the endowments named -were most solemnly dedicated. They formed the nucleus of the -Bishopric—the beginnings of the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert, which is -only another name for the Bishopric. Repeated invasion of the Danes at -last drove the monks out of Lindisfarne, and destroyed the Durham -monasteries of Jarrow and Wearmouth. The Lindisfarne monks left their -island, and bore away for safety’s sake the body of St. Cuthbert, and -after various wanderings brought it back to rest within the fortified -enclosure of Chester-le-Street, and so within the confines of Durham. -Here the Danish conquerors confirmed previous gifts, and added others to -them, until the lands of St. Cuthbert increased very widely, whilst -Chester-le-Street became a centre of pilgrimage.</p> - -<p>For 113 years Chester-le-Street was the Christian metropolis of the -North, until the final fury of the Danes began to fall upon Northumbria. -In 995 another exodus began, and the clergy bore off the body to Ripon, -returning a few months later when the tempest seemed to have abated. -Many legends cluster round this return, but in any case the fact is -clear that the Bishop and his company took up their abode, not at -Chester-le-Street, but on the rocky peninsula of Dun-holm, or Durham, -which the River Wear nearly encircled. In this way the seat of -ecclesiastical authority was changed for the second time, and Durham -City now became the centre of the still-expanding Bishopric. Great -prestige gathered round the Saxon cathedral in which the shrine of the -saint was placed, for Kings and Princes vied with one another in doing -honour to it. So Canute, walking to the spot with bare feet, gave<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_6">{6}</a></span> fresh -donations of Durham land and confirmed what others had bestowed.</p> - -<p>But again dark days fell upon the North. To say nothing of Scottish -encroachments upon the Bishopric, which were sustained in the eleventh -century, the worst blow fell when the Norman Conquest took place. In no -part of England was a more determined patriotism opposed to William than -in Durham. Submission was nominal, and desperate efforts were made to -keep Northumbria as a separate kingdom by placing Edgar Atheling upon an -English throne in York. When the Conqueror made a Norman called Cumin -his Viceroy in these parts, the men of Durham rose and murdered him -within their city. It was an act that William never forgave and never -forgot. He wrought such a deed of vengeance that the whole of the -smiling district from York to Durham was turned into a wilderness. When -he came to die he is represented to have said of this ruthless episode: -"I fell on the English of the Northern counties like a ravening lion. I -commanded their houses and corn, with all their tools and furniture, to -be burnt without distinction, and large herds of cattle and beasts of -burden to be butchered wherever they were found. It was thus I took -revenge on multitudes of both sexes, by subjecting them to the calamity -of a cruel famine; and by so doing, alas! became the barbarous murderer -of many thousands, both young and old, of that fine race of people."</p> - -<p>William placed foreigners in most positions of importance. To the See of -Durham he appointed Walcher from Lorraine, and the new prelate came from -his consecration at Winchester, escorted across the belt of depopulated, -ravaged land, until he reached Durham. North of the Wear the Patrimony -of St. Cuthbert was as yet largely untouched, but the men of Durham had -no love for the foreigner, and no wish to regard him as their lord. -Fortunately for him the Earl of Northumbria stood his friend, and built -for him in 1072 the Norman castle overlooking</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_002" style="width: 476px;"> -<a href="images/i_006fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_006fp.jpg" width="476" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<img src="images/i_006fp-a.jpg" width="250" alt="[Signature image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_7">{7}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the Wear, which was destined to be the Bishop’s fortress for seven and a -half centuries. Within that castle Walcher was safe, and, helped by the -Earl, he ruled his recalcitrant flock, not always wisely, but with all -his power, until an insurrection which he strove to quell cost him his -life. He died, however, not as mere Bishop of Durham, but as Earl of -Northumbria as well, for when Waltheof the Earl died, William appointed -Walcher in his place. Thus in the hands of the first Bishop after the -Conquest was held the double authority of Bishop and of Earl. Whatever -may have been the powers of the prelate in the Bishopric until this -time, it is certain that from this point he claims a double authority -within the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert. As for Walcher, stern example was -made of what resistance to the Bishop’s lawful authority would mean, -when William laid waste the land that had escaped ten years before, and -extended his ravages north of the Wear and towards the Tyne.</p> - -<p>Just before the eleventh century expired, an event of considerable -importance took place when Bishop Carileph began the great cathedral -which still crowns the height above the Wear at Durham. About the same -time an understanding was reached between the Earl of Northumbria and -the Bishop, by which all the rights and the independence of the -Bishopric seem to have been recognized and confirmed, so that -henceforward the Bishop was the undisputed lord of the lands of St. -Cuthbert.<a id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> When in 1104 the cathedral was sufficiently advanced to -receive the body of the saint within its eastern apse, a great ceremony -took place, which served to carry the prestige of Durham beyond anything -it had yet reached. Henceforward the stream of pilgrims which had -steadily flowed to the shrine, whether at Lindisfarne, or -Chester-le-Street, or Durham, swelled in volume until the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_8">{8}</a></span> -attractiveness of Durham exceeded that of any place of pilgrimage in -England. Only when the shrine of St. Thomas at Canterbury drew to it so -large a share of patronage from the end of the twelfth century did a -serious rival manifest itself. Carileph had divided the territory of St. -Cuthbert, reserving part for the Bishop, and part for the Benedictine -monks whom he placed in the new cathedral. Thus the Bishop had his -estates henceforward, and the monks had theirs. At first the portion -belonging to the monastery seems to have been disappointingly poor, a -fact very probably due to recent ravages whose brand was not yet -effaced. By degrees, however, the lands of prior and convent improved, -and the gifts of pilgrims made the monks prosperous.</p> - -<p>The Bishop who presided when the body of St. Cuthbert was translated in -1104 was Ralph Flambard. He was not the character to allow the prestige -of the Bishopric to decline. Under him the resources of the county were -ably administered, and the organization of his dominions was carefully -developed. By degrees the traces of the Norman harrying were -obliterated. How fair a country Durham was in the early twelfth century -we may discover from the poetry of a monk from the monastery who was -called Lawrence, and wrote a description of events and localities -connected with Durham. He speaks of its scenery, its excellent products, -its fine breed of horses, its open-air amusements, to say nothing of -indoor revels at Christmas. The twelfth century, with sparse population, -open moor and plain, and increasing prosperity, is far away from the -noise of anvil and forge, the smoke of endless coke ovens, the squalor -of congested towns, as they exist in the county to-day. But the scene -changed too soon. After the accession of Stephen in 1135 fierce dynastic -feuds broke out, and the Scots joined in the anarchy of the time, -attempting to annex the territory of St. Cuthbert to the Lowlands of -Scotland. Durham suffered severely in the conflict, and a mock-bishop, -supported by the Scots, actually held<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_9">{9}</a></span> Durham Castle and City against -the lawful prelate. At length more quiet days came, and in the reign of -Henry II. Bishop Pudsey, the King’s own cousin, succeeded in resisting -the centralizing efforts of the monarch, and although he had to bow to -the imperious Henry on more than one occasion, he carried on in the main -the liberties and rights of the Bishopric. A little later he was enabled -to round off the Bishopric lands when he bought the wapentake of -Sadberge from King Richard, the only important part of the county which -had never yet been included in the territory of St. Cuthbert. From this -time the Earl of Northumbria disappears, and at last there is no rival -whatsoever to powers which had been steadily growing. The Bishopric is -now complete in head and members, and the Bishop is virtual sovereign of -it, whilst the King is supreme outside. At this stage we may freely call -the Bishop’s dominions the Palatinate of Durham—a name which continues -to be usual until the power so described is, in 1836, annexed to the -Crown. The word "Palatinate" is a conventional legal title which the -lawyers brought into fashion to describe a great franchise with its -independent jurisdiction.<a id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p>We are able to get a very much clearer notion of the Palatinate in -Pudsey’s days, when the hitherto scanty materials of Durham history -begin to swell. We have some of his buildings before us yet—St. -Cuthbert’s, Darlington, the Galilee of the cathedral, the rich doorway -in the castle; we have seal and charters and writs of his episcopate; -and, in short, are able to trace in outline the way in which Pudsey -developed the Bishopric on the analogy of a little kingdom, with -institutions and officers of its own. Moreover, some notion is gained in -the famous Boldon Book<a id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> of the episcopal lands and how they<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_10">{10}</a></span> were -held. There we get a Domesday, as it were, of the Bishop’s holdings, to -which those who desire to study the intricate methods of medieval land -tenure on the Bishop’s property must be referred. A little later on we -find somewhat similar information about the lands of the monastery, so -that, as the centuries wear on, a fairly detailed picture is gained of -the conditions of life in the medieval Bishopric. Thus we see the lands -divided up into a large number of manors, which vary largely in -character, for some are pastoral, others agricultural, others moor-land, -or forest, and others still are connected with townships like Gateshead -or Sunderland. The Bishop’s or Prior’s steward makes a circuit at -different times, visiting all the units in some special locality, and -looking to his lettings or his rents. The holdings vary very much in -size and in tenure, and the tenants likewise differ in status and in -service. There are villeins who are not free, and are bound to render -certain dues of personal service, mowing, or reaping, or ploughing, or -sowing, for so many days, and receiving perhaps doles of food, a -cottage, and some land, but no money wage. There are farmers who take a -manor or farm on condition of rendering so much agricultural produce to -the lord. There are cottiers who work so many days in the week, and have -to give so many eggs, or so many fowls for the table, in return for the -little home that they occupy. In Durham itself certain houses were let -to tenants, who had to defend the North Gate, or help act as garrison, -or render herbs and other necessaries for the Bishop’s kitchen. The -conditions of service among the villeins were often onerous, and a tone -of deep discontent is marked in the medieval villages of Durham. In time -of war external service might be demanded of the men, and a rally to -join the Bishopric troops was no unfamiliar incident of life in those -days. If it extended beyond the bounds proper of the territory of St. -Cuthbert, pay was claimed, though it was not always given. Small -quarrels and differences were probably adjusted by steward<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_11">{11}</a></span> or bailiff, -but more serious cases came before justices of the peace specially -appointed, whilst murder and other grave offences were reserved for -judges whom the Bishop appointed to sit at various centres, of which -Durham was the chief. And this power of appointing judges to try -criminals and to convict or acquit them is what is meant by the popular -and inexact phrase, "the power of life and death." The Bishop’s revenue -was managed by special officers of his own appointment, who got returns -from the local bailiffs, and then recorded them at Durham, where a -special audit was held. A special set of buildings were erected near -Durham Castle, with various adjacent offices, for the management and -arrangement of all the mass of business—financial, judicial, and -administrative—which was entailed by the Bishopric.</p> - -<p>In this way the conditions of life, and the administration of the -Palatinate, followed roughly the general order of the kingdom outside, -and the Bishopric was, as has already been said, virtually a little -kingdom ruled by a Bishop instead of a King. The Bishops who followed -Pudsey maintained and developed his organization, but not without -strife. The thirteenth century, in particular, presents a long record of -obstinate struggle between the Bishop and those who tried to limit his -power or to gain concessions which he was unwilling to make. Indeed, the -struggle between the King and the people, which is the great feature of -English history in that century, finds a close parallel on a small scale -in Durham. At one time it is a long feud between the Bishop and the -Monastery over their respective lands, a feud which was at last ended by -an agreement between the contending parties. At another time the Bishop -is trying to curb the independence of the Barons of the Bishopric, who -held large estates for which they were supposed to yield homage, or to -perform some kind of service. In this way Nevilles and Balliols, two of -the great Bishopric families, held out against the crusading Bishop Bek, -and in the end they had to give way. And<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_12">{12}</a></span> once more there was strife on -more than one occasion with the King, who now and then attempted to -restrain the exuberant independence of the Bishop of Durham; and here, -in the main, the Bishop was successful in asserting his rights and -powers as inalienable.</p> - -<p>Over this scene of complex organization and activity dark shadows came -in the fourteenth century. The Scots, who had been quiescent for some -time, fell upon the Bishopric with great ferocity during the reigns of -the first three Edwards, and the years were seldom free from the record -of invasion or pillage. It had come to be regarded as a prime duty of -the Bishop to repress all northern incursions, and, as a contemporary -document puts it, to serve as a wall of brass against the Scots. He had -his fortified castles, Norham in Norhamshire, Durham in its own county, -and Northallerton in Yorkshire. These three lay on one of the chief -routes by which the invaders entered England, and were kept in -threatening times well defended and provisioned. In 1312 Bruce pushed -his forces right through Northumberland, and advanced into the heart of -the Bishopric, delivering a blow against Durham itself, which must have -been severe. Two years later in Scotland the troops of England were -beaten at Bannockburn, and the humiliation of Edward II. was only -effaced some years later by Edward III. in the victories of Halidon -Hill, and more particularly of Neville’s Cross in 1346. The latter -battle was the great glory of the men of Durham until it was forgotten -in the greater prestige of Flodden nearly 200 years later. The tomb of -Ralph Neville, badly battered by Scots in later days, still stands in -Durham Cathedral as a local memorial of Neville’s Cross, in which he led -the Bishopric troops.</p> - -<p>The joy caused by these successes was soon dimmed when the terrors of -the Black Death overwhelmed the district. Perhaps no part of England -suffered much more severely. The pestilence rolled up towards the North -in the year 1349, and at last made its dreaded appearance in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_13">{13}</a></span> the -south-east of the county. From this point it spread with frightful -rapidity, carrying off all orders and conditions of men, for none -escaped. Sometimes a whole household perished, and here and there an -entire village was obliterated. "No tenants came from West Thickley, -because they are all dead," is the steward’s entry at one manorial court -or halmote, as the local word is. In the winter that followed there was -no sowing, and when the spring came men had not the heart to go to work -on the fields, for the plague was renewed with increasing virulence, and -everything was thrown out of gear. Villeins had run away from sheer -terror; even madness was not unheard of; and whilst there was little to -eat famine and misery stalked unchecked.<a id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> The Bishop’s lands and the -Prior’s lands were going out of cultivation, for it was impossible to -find labourers, or to bind them down in the old way. Grotesque attempts -were made to keep up the former conditions of service, until by degrees -stewards and bailiffs found out that they were face to face with the -greatest economic difficulty which had ever appeared in the Bishopric. -The Black Death practically brought to an end the rigid system of land -tenure which had been kept up so long, for it gave the death-blow to -serfdom, and the old services in kind, of which mention has been made. -Discontent had long lurked in the manors of Durham, but from this time -it became active and aggressive, until it pushed the peasants out to -assert themselves and to seek for more congenial conditions of life. -Elsewhere the transition was effected by bloodshed; in the territories -of St. Cuthbert it came more peacefully, but to the accompaniment of -much mutual mistrust and variance.</p> - -<p>It is possibly in connection with all this covert rebellion on the part -of the masses that Cardinal Langley built or finished the great gaol in -the North Gate in Durham.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_14">{14}</a></span> This large building running up to the castle -keep on one side, and down towards the river on the other, spanned -Saddler Street for four centuries, until it was taken down in 1820. It -was often filled with criminals who were imprisoned here for various -offences in its gloomy dungeons. There was another gaol at Sadberge, but -it does not seem clear what relation this bore to the more important -building in Durham. But the fifteenth century brought its own special -anxieties. In the dynastic troubles which led to the Wars of the Roses, -the Palatinate was generally Lancastrian in sympathy. Henry VI. (only -one of many English Kings who visited Durham) came to the shrine of St. -Cuthbert at a time when his dominions had been cut short upon the -Continent, and were still further menaced by the Scots. In the bitter -days that followed, when he was driven from his throne, he took refuge -in the Bishopric, whilst his brave wife went to the Continent to seek -for troops to enable him to regain the crown. Even rectories were -fortified in those days, for men had to take one side or the other, and -to defend their property against bands of marauders. Of religious -trouble and dispute, Durham had no large share at that particular time, -though elsewhere the ferment caused by the Lollard Movement was -producing much unrest. The Bishopric was too much under the control of -the Church to allow much freedom of thought. Yet there were isolated -instances of Lollard sympathy, exceptions to prove the rule, which were -instantly repressed by ecclesiastical authority.</p> - -<p>Dynastic trouble did not end when Henry VII. and his wife, Elizabeth, -united the Red and White Roses. The Bishopric men, indeed, had no desire -to rise against the strong government which the King set up in England; -but they were caught in the tide of rebellion which was set going by -Simnel and Warbeck. It was to stem this tide that Henry placed Richard -Fox as Bishop of Durham in 1494. This prelate, the King’s tried friend, -fortified afresh the castles of the see, and placed garrisons in them -to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_15">{15}</a></span> check the advance of Warbeck through the northern counties. -Fortunately, the invasion followed another line to the Battle of Stoke, -and the men of Durham were spared the anxiety of decision. But Fox, -keeping vigilant guard in his fortresses, was instrumental in concluding -that alliance which was destined eventually to unite the English and the -Scots as one nation. Henry’s young daughter, Margaret, was affianced to -James IV. of Scotland, and in 1503 passed right through the Bishopric on -her way to her northern home. Nowhere in all the long progress did the -Princess receive a warmer welcome than in Durham, from the moment she -entered the Bishopric at the Tees to the moment she crossed Tyne Bridge -from Gateshead into Newcastle. A mighty banquet was given in her honour -in Durham Castle, to which all the nobles and important personages of -the district were invited. Little Margaret’s great-grandson was James -VI. of Scotland and I. of England; and in his days border feuds passed -away for ever. And yet at the moment of the banquet that consummation -was a long way off. Ten years later the Scots invaded England at a time -of grave national anxiety, when the King and his troops were warring in -France. But the Bishopric musters turned out. Bishop Ruthall rushed up -to Durham, and his men at Flodden contributed not a little to the great -English success as they bore the banner of St. Cuthbert into the battle.</p> - -<p>The century that had so recently dawned was destined to witness great -changes in the Bishopric. Henry VIII. laid ruthless hands upon the power -of the Church, and the monarch who extorted the submission of the clergy -was not likely to allow the great power and independence of the Bishop -of Durham to pass unchecked. Accordingly, in 1536, he cut short the -judiciary authority of the prelate. This, as we have seen, was one of -the most characteristic privileges of the Bishop, and neither Henry II. -nor Edward I. had interfered with it. From this date the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_16">{16}</a></span> King was the -authority who appointed the judges; and although in practice the old -forms and methods were largely followed, the sanction was royal, and not -episcopal. And next year, when the Council of the North was set up for -the purposes of defence, execution of justice, and finance, in the -northern counties, a still further blow was aimed at the Bishop’s power, -for this court could, if it willed, supersede the Palatinate machinery. -As a matter of fact, its first President was Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, -who prevented such degradation of the Palatinate for the present. Yet -one thing of large importance was carried out under the Council’s -authority, when the great Abbey of Durham was dissolved in 1539. The -monastery had stood unassailed for 450 years, but Henry set going the -process of destruction which ended in the total suppression of every -religious house in the land. It had been a wealthy foundation, a kindly -landlord, an influence for good in the district, with its library, and -its schools, and its varied means of usefulness. Yet every good object -that it had served was eventually carried on. Prior and convent became -Dean and Canons; monastic lands were now capitular estates; its chief -school and library were maintained with greater efficiency; its solemn -offices soon became the familiar vernacular service of the Church of -England. Otherwise there was little monastic destruction in the county -of Durham, for the great monastery had brooked no rivals; and a friary -or two with a single nunnery were scarcely rivals. The dependent cells -of Jarrow, Wearmouth, Finchale, however, shared in the fall of Durham -Abbey.</p> - -<p>Three or four years before the surrender of the monastery the people of -Durham had taken part in the Pilgrimage of Grace—that exciting -demonstration in which popular resentment against the fall of the -smaller houses was exhibited. When Durham Abbey fell, there was no -repetition of that rising, for severe punishment had been meted out in -1537; whilst in 1540 pestilence was desolating<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_17">{17}</a></span> the district, and the -gloom in consequence was depressing. But there was no sympathy with the -changes which soon began to hurry on, and Durham was probably more -opposed to the Reformation than any other district. Under Edward VI. the -Bishopric became the object of the ambitious designs of -Northumberland—one of the noblemen whom the rapid religious and -political revolution of the time placed in power. He cast a longing eye -on the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert; and in building up the fortunes of his -upstart family (he was a Dudley, not a Percy, for the true -Northumberland title was at the moment suspended) he probably intended -to lay hands upon the whole Bishopric, and to arrogate for himself the -Palatinate jurisdiction. He succeeded in getting the Bishop thrown into -prison on false charges of treason, and then forced a Bill through -Parliament which abolished the power of the Palatinate, and created two -sees—one at Durham, the other at Newcastle. There can be little doubt -that he intended to secure the Palatinate power for himself, and to rule -in Durham as Duke of Northumberland; whilst his son, Guildford Dudley, -recently married to Lady Jane Grey, was to be Prince Consort, and to -share the throne of England. This most daring scheme fell to the ground -when Mary came to the throne, and the recent legislation was at once -abolished, and things went back to the conditions obtaining before the -reign of Edward.</p> - -<p>Under Elizabeth the Bishopric underwent a process of reconstruction in -various ways. It was not a pleasant process. Socially the old system of -land-tenure, which had been breaking up since the Black Death, was -abolished, and a new method of leaseholds was evolved after much -friction between the tenants on the one side, and the Dean and Chapter, -or the Bishop, on the other. The power of the Bishop was now further -attenuated, for the Queen laid hands upon large estates which were the -undoubted possession of the see, with a history of many<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_18">{18}</a></span> centuries’ -attachment to the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert. The settlement of religion -carried out in the early years of the Queen’s reign was largely -unpalatable in Durham. Certainly the majority of the clergy acquiesced, -but the acquiescence was largely external. So the people at large -tolerated the changes that were wrought in churches and services, when -the English liturgy took the place of the Latin offices restored by -Mary, and when altars were broken down, and the church furniture in -general was destroyed. The great Bishopric families—Nevilles, Lumleys, -and others—scarcely concealed their dislike of the new régime in Church -and in State, and after some years of endurance, they rose at last in -1569. Feeling sure of wide sympathy in Northumberland and Durham, the -Earls of Northumberland and Westmorland gathered retainers together, and -restored the old order in Durham Cathedral, whilst the people of Durham, -lowly kneeling, were absolved from the guilt of schism. But inferior -leadership caused the rising to collapse outside the Bishopric, and when -the Queen’s army marched through Durham it swept the undisciplined -forces of the Earls across the Tyne to be dissipated in the rigours of a -cold Northumbrian winter. But, although the rebellion came to nothing, -passive resistance was maintained. As the reign proceeded, this quieter -condition was roused into greater activity by the seminary priests and -the Jesuit missionaries who came into the country from institutions -abroad, which sent over into England, and not least into Durham, a long -succession of these emissaries. They went up and down the district, -welcomed and protected by friends who received their ministrations, but -not seldom hunted down by the vigilance of the Ecclesiastical -Commission, which increased the stringency of its measures as the -century drew to its close.</p> - -<p>The last years of the great Queen witnessed a rather distressing -condition of things in the county. Pestilence was a frequent visitor in -times that were insanitary, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_19">{19}</a></span> the transition to happier conditions in -religion and in society was not complete. The villages were frequently -unpopulated, and tillage was decayed, whilst the starving families -wandered into the neighbouring towns in search of food. Probably the -depressing state of affairs was worse in the Bishopric than in other -parts of England, for it received a special aggravation in the Scottish -inroads, which were renewed towards the end of the reign before their -final extinction at the accession of James. When the Elizabethan Poor -Law began its work, the county of Durham benefited by its operation, for -regular collectors for the poor were appointed, and sometimes rates were -levied, in place of the very uncertain alms of the "poor man’s box" in -the church, to which parishioners were asked to contribute under the -Injunctions of Elizabeth.</p> - -<p>The Stuarts showed more regard for the Palatinate of Durham than did the -Tudors. No Tudor sovereign, it seems, entered the county, but James I., -Charles I., and James II. when Duke of York, paid ceremonious visits to -Durham, and in general upheld the prestige of the see, though they never -completely restored its independence. One of the most interesting -episodes of the seventeenth century is the religious revolution carried -out during the first forty years. Bishop Neile is credited with -introducing to Durham a series of prebendaries who altered the aspect of -the cathedral and produced great changes in the services. These -"innovations" caused much comment, and although Charles in 1633 paid a -special visit, and by his presence and countenance sanctioned what had -been done, frequent remonstrance was made. The long reign of Elizabethan -Churchmanship had accustomed the people to one uniform type of worship -and ornament, and they were not prepared for the alterations now made in -ritual and in the appearance of the churches. When the Scots entered -England in 1640, by way of remonstrance against the King’s policy in -Church and State, the Bishopric was not altogether unsympathetic; but -when the armed demonstration proved<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_20">{20}</a></span> to be an armed occupation extending -over a year in duration, the royalism of Durham re-asserted itself. At -the outbreak of the Civil War in 1642 it was warmly royalist. A second -Scottish occupation after Marston Moor in 1644 kept this spirit in -check, whilst the Long Parliament virtually superseded the Palatinate -and governed the district by committees. Bishop, prebendaries, and other -high ecclesiastics had fled when the Scots entered Durham in 1640. -Parliament now seized upon the lands of Bishop and Chapter, and sold -them or let them as opportunity offered. Thus for several years the old -ecclesiastical constitution of Durham was destroyed, and in the parish -churches, carefully cleared in 1644 from all "monuments of idolatry," a -Presbyterian system was set up. It was not, however, fully carried out, -and all manner of ministers were in possession when the Protectorate was -set up in 1653. The cathedral services had long been silenced, and in -1650 Cromwell used the buildings as a convenient accommodation for the -Scottish prisoners captured at Dunbar. On the petition of the people of -the county, the Protector undertook to establish a college in Durham and -to devote the cathedral and castle buildings to that purpose. Resentment -and discontent smouldered during these years of tyranny. Indeed, more -than one Royalist rising had to be repressed. When, at the beginning of -1660, there was talk of restoring the King, no voice of dissent was -heard in the county.</p> - -<p>Exuberant loyalty greeted the Restoration. Cosin was made Bishop. He was -one of the group of influential men appointed by Neile forty years -before, and now for twelve years he repaired the breaches of the city -and diocese, and carried out the principles which he had formed in -earlier life. The Palatinate jurisdiction was revived, with perhaps -greater lustre than it had exhibited for a century past. In these days -of royalist triumph Nonconformist and Puritan scarcely ventured at first -to show their heads, but in Durham they were only biding their time.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_21">{21}</a></span> -They found opportunity to promote a formidable rising, which was known -as the Derwentdale Plot, aiming at some kind of overthrow of the -restored Church and Crown. It was badly managed, and speedily collapsed; -but Anabaptists, Quakers, and other parties managed to maintain their -existence despite strenuous measures, and more particularly despite the -vigorous working of the Conventicle Acts which were intended to crush -Nonconformity.</p> - -<p>Generally speaking, the county of Durham accepted the Revolution in -1688, though here and there some reluctance was manifested, and -notwithstanding the efforts of Bishop Crewe and Dean Granville to -promote allegiance to King James. Jacobitism, indeed, was spasmodic in -the Bishopric, and it does not appear that in 1715 or in 1745 very wide -sympathy was exhibited in the district when elsewhere the excitement was -considerable. The eighteenth century witnessed two events of the -greatest importance in Durham history. In the first place, after a -period of long stagnation, industrial development caught the whole -district and entirely changed its character. The coal trade had been -prosecuted continuously since the thirteenth century at least, and the -mines had proved a considerable source of revenue to the owners. Lead -was an ancient industry, and the salt-pans of the county have a -connected history, ranging over many centuries. These and other -operations had increased in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, -more particularly when a great development of shipping at Sunderland and -at Hartlepool took place after the Restoration. A large export trade by -sea spread rapidly. In the early part of the eighteenth century 175,000 -tons of coal was the annual output on the Wear, and the history of the -collier convoys at that time is a large chapter in the general history -of North Country shipping. All this meant a considerable increase of -prosperity, and by degrees the county which had been thinly populated, -for the most part, became a hive of industry, in which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_22">{22}</a></span> rapid fortunes -were made. The mines and the shipyards attracted labour from other parts -of England, and the population of the county, returned as 58,860 in the -early days of Elizabeth, amounted to 149,384 in 1801, a figure which has -been multiplied by ten in the last hundred years. The Bishop and the -Dean and Chapter largely shared in the vast increase of wealth which the -working of coal-mines in particular produced. It cannot, however, be -said with truth that the Church authorities neglected the cause of -charity. A list of the benefactions directly due to the various Bishops, -and also to Dean and Chapter, shows how much they did in various ways -for the cause of education as well as for the spiritual well-being of -the people. Indeed, subscription lists of the early nineteenth century, -which still survive, prove that the clergy gave the chief proportion of -what was given when some public call was made. It must not be forgotten -that Durham University and Durham School were the direct foundations of -the Church within the Bishopric.</p> - -<p>The other important event to which allusion has been made was the -appearance of the Wesleyan Movement in Durham. Bishop Butler wrote his -famous work, the <i>Analogy</i>, in the western parts of the county, and -published it in 1736. It may be doubted whether its local effect was -considerable. Within a few years John Wesley passed and repassed through -the county, and established his societies in Durham, Sunderland, -Darlington, and elsewhere. They prospered exceedingly, and left a -permanent impression upon the district, and this was deepened and -extended when a fresh wave of Methodism travelled over the North of -England early in the nineteenth century in connection with the spread of -Primitive Methodism. There can be no manner of doubt that the Methodist -Movement deeply stirred and influenced some classes of the increasing -population which the Church left untouched.</p> - -<p>The real dividing-line between Old Durham and the present day is to be -found in the series of changes which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_23">{23}</a></span> took place in the reign of William -IV. The spirit of reform was operating in various directions, and it was -not likely that Durham could escape. The increasing wealth of the Church -and the still independent powers of the Bishop attracted the attention -of the party of change. The Dean and Chapter rose to their opportunity, -and founded the University of Durham. The newly formed Ecclesiastical -Commission reduced the large staff of the cathedral, and reduced the -stipends of those who were left. The Bishop was henceforth to be no -longer a great landowner, managing his own revenues and estates, but a -prelate, like any other, drawing a fixed stipend. His officers went, and -the Palatinate jurisdiction which Dudley had coveted was finally annexed -to the Crown. Thus to-day George V. is, within the confines of the -Bishopric, Earl Palatine of Durham.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_24">{24}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="TOPOGRAPHY_OF_DURHAM"></a>TOPOGRAPHY OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Miss M. Hope Dodds</span><br /> -<i>Hist. Tripos, Cantab.</i></h2> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Great North Road.</i></p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE Great North Road crosses the Tees by Croft Bridge, on which the -boundary between Yorkshire and Durham is marked by a stone dated 1627. -This road is the "Darnton Trod," along which criminals from the South -sought refuge all through the Middle Ages. Once across the Tees the -fugitive was safe, for the King’s writ did not run in the Bishopric. -Moreover, this was the road to the great sanctuary of St. Cuthbert at -Durham, where a man was safe from the vengeance of his enemies; and so -it happened that Darlington became a great resort of evil-doers, and in -1311 Bishop Kellaw issued a proclamation threatening with the terrors of -excommunication all those who molested merchants going to and returning -from Darlington market. The ill-name of the neighbourhood was not lost -after the Bishop had been deprived of his own writs in 1536. The little -inn of Baydale was the resort of the gentlemen of the road in the -seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the rendezvous of Catton’s gang, -the haunt of Barwick and of Sir William Browne, all noted highwaymen of -the North.</p> - -<p>The first hamlet in Durham through which the road passes is Oxneyfield, -where, in the fields by the wayside, may be seen the Hell Kettles, four -dark, still pools, formed by the natural sinking of the soil over the -salt measures in the north bank of the Tees. There is a tradition that -an<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_25">{25}</a></span> Eastern diver, a black man, plunged into one of the pools, and -reappeared in the Skerne, having discovered a subterranean connection -between the two waters. The Black Man in North Country legends is -usually the devil, and this story may be connected with the belief that -the Hell Kettles sometimes grow boiling hot, and that the devil "seethes -the souls of sinful men and women in them," at which times the spirits -may be heard to cry and yell about the pools.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_003" style="width: 207px;"> -<a href="images/i_025.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_025.jpg" width="207" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Market-Cross at Darlington.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Passing by this haunted place the road leads on to Darlington, a borough -full of historical relics, from the Bulmer Stone in Northgate to the -first locomotive at Bank Top Station. The Bulmer Stone is a large -boulder of Shap granite, which was borne down to its present -resting-place on a glacier in the Ice Age. Lying in the midst of the -level, marshy plains of the Skerne, it formed a land<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_26">{26}</a></span>mark for the men of -the Bronze Age, and was perhaps the origin of the town. An Anglian -burial-ground, probably pre-Christian, was discovered in the town in -1876. After the conversion of the North a church was built, and two -Saxon crosses from it are preserved in the present Church of St. -Cuthbert. The history of this beautiful building does not come within -the scope of the present section. To the west of the church lies the -market-place, where in 1217 Stephen de Cantuaria purchased half a pound -of pepper at the fair on the Feast of All Saints, which he rendered to -Roger Fitzacris as service for this land in Milneflach and elsewhere. -From the market-cross in 1312 was read the Bishop’s order that a -tournament which had been proclaimed at Darlington should not be held, -as it was forbidden by the laws of the land. That market-cross is not -standing now, but its successor may be seen in the modern covered -market, a plain column surmounted by a ball, which was erected in 1727 -by Dame Dorothy Brown, the last descendant of the family of Barnes, -whose members had held the office of bailiff of Darlington for over a -hundred years. The old toll-booth, in which the bailiffs held their -courts, was pulled down in 1806 and replaced by the present Town Hall. -Ever since 1197, Darlington enjoyed the title of borough, and yet it -possesses no early charters and had no corporate government; it was not -visited by the municipal commissioners in 1833, and was only -incorporated in 1868. Until its incorporation the Bishop of Durham -appointed a bailiff, who held the old manorial court of the borough. -Darlington enjoys the distinction of having retained its bailiff until -the middle of the nineteenth century, whereas in the other Durham towns -the Bishop had ceased to appoint bailiffs by the end of the seventeenth -century. The fame of Darlington rests on the fact that the first -passenger railway-line in England was laid between Darlington and -Stockton by George Stephenson, who was supported by the capital and -influence of Edward Pease of Darlington; the line was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_27">{27}</a></span> opened in 1825. -This is surely glory enough for any town!</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_004" style="width: 599px;"> -<a href="images/i_027.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_027.jpg" width="599" height="461" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">An Old Tithe-Barn at Durham.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Great Aycliffe, lying five miles north of Darlington on the highroad, -was once one of the lesser forests of the Bishopric. About four miles -north of Aycliffe the road crosses a little stream by the hamlet of -Rushyford. This was a desolate spot in 1317, when on September 1 Lewis -Beaumont, Bishop-elect of Durham, and the Cardinals<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_28">{28}</a></span> Gaucelin John and -Luke Fieschi, with a numerous train of attendants, travelled towards -Durham, Beaumont to be consecrated in the cathedral, the Cardinals to -negotiate a truce between England and Scotland. They had been warned at -Darlington that the road was beset, and this warning, which they -disregarded, proved only too true, for as they crossed the gloomy little -burn at Rushyford, they were set upon by the notorious freebooter, Sir -Gilbert Middleton, and his men. The Cardinals and their servants were -stripped of their goods and allowed to continue their journey, but the -borderers carried off the Bishop-elect to their fortress of Mitford -Castle, and there held him to ransom, until the Prior and Convent of -Durham by great sacrifices succeeded in redeeming him.</p> - -<p>The next place of importance on the road is Ferryhill, a large modern -village six and a half miles south of Durham. Few traces of the past -survive here, except the fragment of an old stone cross, Cleve’s Cross, -which is traditionally held to commemorate the slaying of a great wild -boar, which ravaged Durham once upon a time, by a certain valiant Roger -de Ferry, whose family long dwelt in the neighbourhood in great honour. -About a mile to the south-east of Ferryhill is Mainsforth, the estate of -Robert Surtees, the historian of Durham.</p> - -<p>Midway between Ferryhill and Durham the highroad crosses the River Wear -by Sunderland Bridge, and passes through the suburbs into the city of -Durham.</p> - -<p>A bird’s-eye view of the city of Durham even at the present day is -surprisingly beautiful. In the Middle Ages it would have served as a -model for one of those fascinating little Jerusalems or Bethlehems, -walled, towered, and pinnacled, which the old Italian masters loved to -perch on the craggy hills in the background of some sacred picture. The -river sweeps round three sides of the crag, which is crowned by the -cathedral and the castle, and the narrow neck of land on the fourth side -was defended by a moat. The Prior’s borough of Elvet and the merchants’ -quarter<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_29">{29}</a></span> of Framwellgate lay on the opposite bank of the river, and were -connected with the citadel itself by their bridges.</p> - -<p>The monastic chroniclers of the see were chiefly interested in the -doings of the Bishop in his castle and the Prior in his cathedral, and -the occasional interventions of the Lord King in the quarrels of these -august persons; they tell comparatively little of the life and affairs -of the burgesses themselves, the descendants of the men from between -Coquet and Tees, who obeyed the summons of Earl Ucthred in 995, and -hastened to Durham to raise a shrine worthy of St. Cuthbert, who cleared -the thick forest on the crag of Durham, divided the land by lot, and -became the Haliwerfolc, the people of the Saint. Twice during the -eleventh century they were besieged by the Scots, and each time the -enemy was routed. The heads of the slaughtered Scots were exposed in the -market-place, where the great fair of Durham was held on September 4, -the Feast of the Translation of St. Cuthbert. There was also a fair on -the saint’s other festival, March 20; but the September fair was the -more important. The laws of the special peace of St. Cuthbert, which was -proclaimed by the thanes and drengs before the fair opened, were written -in an ancient Gospel-Book, and a copy of them is still preserved.</p> - -<p>In the winter of 1068-69 Robert Cumin, the newly created Norman Earl of -Northumberland, advanced to Durham with his troops, but as the Normans -lay there they were surprised by a sudden rising of the whole -population, and slain almost to a man. A year later news came that -William himself was approaching Durham to avenge the death of Cumin, -whereupon Bishop Egelwin and the priests took the sacred body of St. -Cuthbert and such of the treasures of the church as they could carry and -fled to Lindisfarne, followed by the people of the city, who dared not -remain without the sacred relic. The whole multitude took refuge on the -island while William devastated Durham and Northumberland. At length<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_30">{30}</a></span> -peace was made, and St. Cuthbert and his followers returned to the -desolate city. In 1072 William visited Durham, and installed the -foreigner, Bishop Walcher, in the see. About this time also the first -Norman castle was built in the city to keep the people in check; but -when Bishop Walcher ventured out of his stronghold in 1080 he was -murdered. Again William ravaged Durham, and the see was filled by Bishop -William de St. Carileph, who began to build the present cathedral, and -who founded the Benedictine monastery connected with it. To the new -monastery he gave forty merchants’ houses in Elvet, which formed the -nucleus of the Prior’s borough of Elvet. The troubles of Durham -recommenced in 1140, when, the see being vacant, Durham Castle was -seized by William Cumin, a nominee of King David of Scotland, who hoped -through Cumin to annex the Bishopric. In the course of the struggle -between the usurper and the new Bishop, William de St. Barbara, the -greater part of the city of Durham was reduced to ashes. There were four -years of desperate warfare before Bishop William entered his cathedral -town, and at last received the submission of Cumin. Even then there -could be no true peace while England was torn with civil war, and it was -not until after the death of Bishop William that a brighter day dawned -with the election of Bishop Hugh Pudsey. Bishop Hugh rebuilt the ruined -city, restored the fortifications, and added to the cathedral. He -granted the burgesses a charter, by which the customs of -Newcastle-on-Tyne were confirmed to them, besides freedom from merchet, -heriot, and toll. The city of Durham stands first in Bishop Pudsey’s -great survey of the Bishopric (Boldon Book, compiled in 1183), when the -city was at farm for 60 marks. Records which relate to the actual life -of the citizens do not begin until the fourteenth century. The earliest -are various charters of murage, dated 1345, 1377, 1385, which authorized -the citizens to levy certain tolls, and to devote the proceeds to the -repair of the walls and streets. The city was governed</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_005" style="width: 785px;"> -<a href="images/i_030fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_030fp.jpg" width="785" height="553" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Bishop Pudsey’s Charter.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_31">{31}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">by a bailiff, appointed by the Bishop, in the same way as Darlington. It -is not until the fifteenth century that gilds are heard of in Durham. In -1436 Bishop Langley granted a licence to several of the principal -inhabitants to form the religious gild of Corpus Christi in the Church -of St. Nicholas, in the market-place. This gild was closely connected -with the craft gilds of the town, which must have been in existence at -the beginning of the century. The first records of the gilds occur in -1447, when the Shoemakers (Cordwainers) and the Fullers each gave -recognizances to the Bishop that they would forfeit 20s. to him and 20s. -to the light of Corpus Christi if any member took a Scot as an -apprentice. The ordinances of the Weavers were enrolled and confirmed by -the Bishop in 1450, and in them reference is made to the play which was -to be played when they went in procession on Corpus Christi Day. The -gilds were not merely a picturesque feature of town life, they had also -a powerful influence on the development of the city. The corporation -granted by Bishop Pilkington’s charter of 1565—the first charter of -incorporation which the city obtained—was probably modelled on the -governing body of the Corpus Christi Gild. The governing charter of the -city until 1770 was granted by Bishop Toby Matthew in 1602, and by this -charter the Common Council of the town was to consist of twenty-four -persons, two being chosen from each of the twelve principal companies by -the mayor and aldermen. When the city of Durham obtained Parliamentary -representation in 1678, the franchise of the borough could only be -obtained by membership in one of the companies, and the procedure of -admission was therefore carefully regulated by the mayor and -corporation. But in 1761 Durham experienced two elections within a few -months of each other, and the political excitement completely -demoralized the city. All restraints were thrown to the winds, and -numbers of new freemen were admitted in a most irregular manner. The -reaction of this exciting time on municipal<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_32">{32}</a></span> affairs was such that, in -1770, more than half the number of the twelve aldermen had resigned or -been removed, and it was therefore impossible to elect a mayor under the -charter of 1603, which consequently lapsed. The various feuds having -been cooled by an interval of ten years, Bishop Egerton granted a new -charter in 1780, with provisions closely resembling those of the old -one, and under this charter Durham was governed until it was included in -the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835.</p> - -<p>The North Road, on leaving Durham, follows the course of one of the -Roman roads which passed through the county. It leads northward over -Framwellgate Moor, and six miles from Durham passes through -Chester-le-Street, which lies on the banks of the Cone Burn. As the name -indicates, a Roman camp was situated here, and numerous Roman remains -have been found. The monks who had fled from Lindisfarne in 876 with the -body of St. Cuthbert settled at Chester-le-Street after seven years’ -wandering, when peace had been confirmed by the agreement between Alfred -and Guthred the Dane. It was the principal city of the see until 995, -when Bishop Aldhune fled once more before the renewed invasions of the -Danes. In Chester-le-Street the old custom is still kept up of playing a -football-match, in which the whole village takes part, on Shrove -Tuesday.</p> - -<p>The borough of Gateshead lies on the Tyne, eight miles north of -Chester-le-Street. The south end of Tyne Bridge was the site of a Roman -camp, and afterwards, in the seventh century, of a Saxon monastery, -which was destroyed by the Danes. A little church which stood there in -1080 was the scene of the murder of Bishop Walcher, who was killed by -the infuriated populace while he was trying to pacify a feud between his -Norman followers and the Saxon nobles. The church was set on fire, and -the Bishop was killed as he rushed from the burning building. The traces -of early Norman work in the present building show that it must have soon -been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_33">{33}</a></span> rebuilt. The new church is first mentioned in 1256, when a -prisoner who had escaped from the castle of Newcastle took refuge in -Gateshead Church. Gateshead’s only charter was granted by Bishop Hugh -Pudsey at some time between 1154 and 1183, and confirmed by his -successor, Bishop Philip of Poitou. The little borough lay on the -outskirts of the Bishop’s forest of Gateshead, and the charter freed the -burgesses to some extent from the tyranny of that very great man, the -Bishop’s Head Forester. In its form of government the borough was -similar to Darlington. Gateshead has always been one of the principal -commercial centres of the county, and, though there are no signs of -craft gilds there, trade companies second in importance only to those of -Durham existed from the reign of Elizabeth till the end of the -eighteenth century. The prosperity of Gateshead very early excited the -alarm of Newcastle, and the history of the town is studded with the -attempts of its jealous neighbour to suppress its trade. In the -fourteenth century the efforts of the Newcastle Corporation were -directed against the fisheries and staithes on the south bank of the -Tyne, which were frequently destroyed by "the malice of the men of -Newcastle." In 1553 the two towns were united, but the Act was repealed -by Queen Mary, who came to the throne in the same year. It was proposed -to renew the union in 1568, but the anxious petitions of Gateshead, and -the opposition of several influential persons in the Palatinate, -frustrated the scheme. There are, however, several cases in the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries of the interference of Newcastle -with the trade of Gateshead. These troubles were the price that -Gateshead had to pay for its advantageous position by the side of the -greater town. Gateshead was given one representative in the House of -Commons by the Reform Act of 1832, and was incorporated by its inclusion -in the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835.</p> - -<p>The boundary of Durham is now the south bank of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_34">{34}</a></span> the Tyne, but formerly -the Bishop’s jurisdiction extended over one-third of the river, and was -marked by a blue stone on Tyne Bridge. The old bridge, which stood where -the Swing Bridge is now, was built in 1248 to replace the Roman bridge, -Pons Ælii, which dated from <i>circa</i> 119. In 1389 the burgesses of -Newcastle carried off the Blue Stone, seized the whole of the bridge, -and built a tower on the south end, which they held against the Bishop. -It was not until 1415 that Bishop Langley at length obtained judgment -against the Corporation of Newcastle, and took possession of the tower -with all his chivalry. The tower stood until the great flood of 1771, -when part of the bridge was swept away. After this catastrophe the whole -was rebuilt, the new bridge being completed in 1781. The High-Level -Bridge was built in 1849, and the present Swing Bridge replaced the old -stone one in 1876. Meanwhile, the conservation of the River Tyne had -been placed in the hands of commissioners, and the jurisdiction of the -Bishop over the river came to an end.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>Durham to South Shields.</i></p> - -<p>The city of Durham, lying almost in the centre of the county, is an -excellent point of departure from which to visit the other towns and -places of interest in the Bishopric. The road which leads from the city -to the mouth of the Tyne runs north-east from Framwellgate Bridge. The -principal village through which it passes is Houghton-le-Spring, six and -a half miles from Durham. The place is closely associated with the name -of Bernard Gilpin, the Apostle of the North, who in the reigns of Edward -VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, was Rector of Houghton-le-Spring, and the -chief instrument in spreading Protestant doctrines through the North. -From here it is seven miles to the mouth of the Wear, where stands the -flourishing port of Sunderland. In early records the town<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_35">{35}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_006" style="width: 453px;"> -<a href="images/i_035.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_035.jpg" width="453" height="323" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Jack Crawford’s Birth-place, Sunderland.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is usually called Wearmouth. It possesses two very interesting charters, -dated respectively 1180-83 and 1634; nevertheless, it did not rise above -the level of a manorial borough until 1835, when it was included in the -Municipal Corporations Act. During the Civil War Sunderland was the -principal centre of the Parliamentarians in Durham, which was on the -whole a Royalist county. The fact that Sunderland was an exception was -due to the influence of the family of Lilburne in the town, George -Lilburne, the uncle of the famous John Lilburne, being the only -magistrate in the borough during the war. At the same time the siege of -Newcastle diverted the coal trade to Sunderland, and thus laid the -foundation of its present prosperity. The town is famous in naval and -military history as the birthplace of two heroes—Jack Crawford, who -"nailed the colours to the mast" at the Battle of Camperdown, 1797, and -Sir Henry Havelock, who relieved Lucknow in 1857. The Sunderland Orphan -Asylum was founded in 1853 by the Freemen and Stallingers of Sunderland, -and endowed with the proceeds of the sale of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_36">{36}</a></span> the Town Moor, which had -become exceedingly valuable in consequence of the building of the -railway. The road crosses the Wear, and enters the parish of -Monkwearmouth.</p> - -<p>The history of Monkwearmouth goes back to 674, when Benedict Biscop -founded there the monastery of St. Peter. The early history of the -monastery was recorded by the Venerable Bede, who relates how Benedict -brought over foreign masons and glass-workers to build his church, and -beautified it with sacred pictures brought from Rome. It was destroyed -by the Danes towards the end of the ninth century, refounded by Bishop -Walcher, <i>circa</i> 1075, and finally annexed to the Convent of Durham by -Bishop William de St. Carileph in 1083. A cell of the convent was -maintained there until the Reformation, and Monkwearmouth continued to -be a manor belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Durham until it was -incorporated with Sunderland.</p> - -<p>From Monkwearmouth the road runs parallel with the coast-line to South -Shields. Shield Lawe, at the mouth of the Tyne, was occupied in -pre-Roman times; an important Roman camp was built there; and later it -was one of the fortresses of the Saxon Kings of Northumbria, and the -site of St. Hilda’s first religious house, founded <i>circa</i> 650. The -little convent was overshadowed by Benedict Biscop’s great monastery of -St. Paul at Jarrow, and both fell before the onslaughts of the Danes. -Jarrow subsequently became a cell of the Convent of Durham, and the -Chapel of St. Hilda at South Shields kept alive the name of the -foundress. After centuries of struggle with the burgesses of Newcastle, -who put down the trade of South Shields with a high hand, the borough -obtained Parliamentary representation in 1832, and incorporation in -1850. In the seventeenth century the salt-pans of South Shields were a -flourishing industry, but its chief importance is now its harbour. The -first lifeboat was built and used there in 1790.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>Durham to Hartlepool.</i></p> - -<p>The twenty miles of road between Durham and Hartlepool is of an -uninteresting character; but the town of Hartlepool itself has a long -history, which begins in 640, when St. Hieu founded a convent there, of -which St. Hilda was afterwards abbess. The house was destroyed by the -Danes, and Hartlepool disappears from history, to reappear at the end of -the twelfth century as a flourishing port belonging to Robert de Bruce, -Lord of Annandale. Hitherto it had not been included in the Bishopric of -Durham, but in 1189 the overlordship of the whole district of Hartness -was bought by Bishop Hugh Pudsey from Richard I. The succeeding Bishop, -Philip de Poitou, obtained possession of the town, but not until the -burgesses had bought a charter from King John in 1200, granting to them -the customs of Newcastle-on-Tyne, while the same King granted to William -de Bruce, Lord of Hartlepool, the right to hold a weekly market and a -fair at the Feast of St. Lawrence (August 10). The burgesses obtained -another charter from Bishop Richard le Poore in 1230, in which he -conceded to them the right to form a Merchant Gild and to elect a mayor. -From this time the burgesses of Hartlepool were able to manage their own -affairs in their own way, and enjoyed more independence than there was -in any of the other towns of Durham. Their chief misfortunes befell them -after Robert de Bruce became King of Scotland in 1305. Hartlepool -escheated to the King of England, and in consequence the Scots felt a -special enmity against it. The town was attacked more than once in the -ensuing wars, but the walls and ramparts, which had been built by Robert -de Bruce (1245-95) made it one of the strongest places in the Bishopric. -At the beginning of the nineteenth century these fortifications were -still among the finest specimens of Edwardian architecture in the -kingdom, but when the trade of the town revived later in the century, -the ancient walls were<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_38">{38}</a></span> pulled down to make way for the new pier and -docks, and hardly any trace of them now remains. In 1599, by the good -offices of Lord Lumley, the burgesses of Hartlepool obtained from Queen -Elizabeth a charter of incorporation, under which the town was governed -until 1834, when the conditions of the charter were not fulfilled, and -it lapsed. The present governing charter of the town was obtained in -1850. The borough of West Hartlepool has grown up in the nineteenth -century on the south side of the bay on which Hartlepool stands.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>Durham to Stockton.</i></p> - -<p>The Durham and Stockton road passes through Bishop Middleham, where one -of the Bishop’s manor-houses used to stand, and through Sedgefield, -about eleven miles from Durham, a market-town which received the grant -of a weekly market and fair at the Feast of St. Edmund the Bishop -(November 16) from Bishop Kellaw in 1312.</p> - -<p>The borough of Stockton lies on the north bank of the Tees, twenty miles -south of Durham. It is situated in the district which in early times -formed the wapentake of Sadberg, and comprised all the lands lying along -the north bank of the river. The wapentake, which was purchased by -Bishop Pudsey in 1189, at the same time as Hartlepool, had a separate -organization from the rest of the Bishopric, and its courts were held at -Sadberg, which is now a small village about three miles east of -Darlington. Stockton itself, however, seems to have come into the -Bishop’s hands before the purchase of the wapentake, as it is included -in the Boldon Book, 1183. The date of the incorporation of the borough -is unknown, but there are grants by several of the Bishops, dated 1310, -1602, and 1666, of a weekly market and a fair at the Feast of St. Thomas -à Becket (December 29). There is also an interesting letter relating to -the customs practised both at Newcastle and at Stockton, which was sent -by the Mayor of Newcastle</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_007" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_038fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_038fp.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Palace, Bishop Auckland.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_39">{39}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">to the Mayor of Stockton in 1344 in reply to certain questions which the -people of Stockton had addressed to Newcastle as their mother town. The -municipal government of the borough was in the hands of the mayor and -the borough-holders, seventy-two in number, until Stockton was included -in the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>Durham to Barnard Castle.</i></p> - -<p>The road to Barnard Castle branches off from the North Road about a mile -south of Sunderland Bridge, and travels south-west into Aucklandshire. -This district included Binchester, Escomb, Newton, and all the -Aucklands, Bishop Auckland, St. Andrew’s Auckland, St. Helen’s Auckland, -and South Auckland. Aucklandshire lay on the borders of the Bishop’s -great forest of Weardale, and the services of the tenants, as described -in Boldon Book, were closely connected with the Bishop’s great -hunting-parties in the forest. All the tenants had to provide ropes for -snaring the deer, and to help to build the Bishop’s hall in the forest, -with a larder, a buttery, a chamber, a chapel, and a fence round the -whole encampment, when the Bishop went on the great hunt. They also kept -eyries of falcons for the Bishop, and attended the roe-hunt when -summoned. In return for their services at the great hunt they received a -tun of beer, or half a tun if the Bishop did not come, and 2s. "as a -favour." The little town of Bishop Auckland was called a borough in the -fourteenth century, when the weekly markets and the fairs held on -Ascension Day, Corpus Christi Day, and the Thursday before October 10, -formed the chief commercial centre of the neighbourhood, but it has -never been incorporated, and is now an urban district.</p> - -<p>To the south of Aucklandshire lies the barony of Evenwood, about a -quarter of a mile west of the road. This was one of the early baronies -of the Bishopric, held by the family of Hansard. Evenwood was bought by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_40">{40}</a></span> -Bishop Bek in 1294, and his successors maintained a manor-house and park -there. After passing by Evenwood, the road leads through Raby Park to -Staindrop.</p> - -<p>Staindrop was one of the vills over which the Bishop and the Convent of -Durham disputed at the beginning of the twelfth century. Bishop Ralph -Flambard restored it to the monks by the charter of restitution which he -executed on his death-bed; and they kept it out of the clutches of -succeeding Bishops by granting it in 1131 at an annual rental of £4 to -Dolphin, son of Ughtred, one of the progenitors of the family of -Neville. Henceforward, Staindrop remained part of the Neville estates in -the Bishopric. In 1378 Bishop Hatfield granted to John Lord Neville the -right to hold a weekly market and a fair there at the Feast of St. -Thomas the Martyr (December 21). The whole of the Neville estates were -confiscated in 1570, after the rebellion of the Earls of Northumberland -and Westmorland in 1569, and Staindrop remained in the hands of the King -until 1632, when it was purchased by Sir Henry Vane, from whom the -present owner, Lord Barnard, is descended.</p> - -<p>Barnard Castle is twenty-five miles from Durham, and lies on the north -bank of the Tees. It did not form part of the Bishopric at the time of -the Conquest, and was granted by William Rufus to Guy Balliol in 1093. -Barnard Balliol, his son, built the castle <i>circa</i> 1132, and apparently -founded the borough, for the first extant charter, granted by his son -Barnard to the burgesses of Barnard Castle <i>circa</i> 1167, refers to the -elder Barnard’s concessions to them. By this charter the burgesses were -granted the customs of Richmond (Yorks). Barnard Castle was a manorial -borough, and is now an urban district. The burgesses obtained charters -from Hugh (1212-28), John (<i>circa</i> 1230), and Alexander, third son of -John. All the Balliol estates in England were forfeited by John Balliol, -sometime King of Scotland, in 1295. Barnard Castle was claimed by Bishop -Bek, but Edward I. granted it to Guy</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_008" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_040fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_040fp.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Barnard Castle.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p> - -<p>Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. The Bishops of Durham made frequent efforts -to obtain possession of the town, and although they were unsuccessful, -they obtained Parliamentary recognition of the fact that Barnard Castle -was part of the Bishopric. Richard III., by his marriage with Lady Anne -of Warwick, became lord of the town, which Lady Anne inherited from her -father, the King-maker. Barnard Castle escheated to the crown in 1485, -and was finally granted to the Earl of Westmorland. In 1569, on -receiving the news that the northern Earls had risen against the Queen, -Sir George Bowes of Streatlam seized and garrisoned the castle, where he -was besieged by the rebels; and although he was forced to surrender -after a ten days’ siege, the delay had given the royal troops time to -come up, and insured the defeat of the insurgents. After the rebellion -Barnard Castle escheated to the crown again, and was leased to the -valiant Bowes. It was finally purchased by Sir Henry Vane in 1632 (see -above).</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>Durham to Alston.</i></p> - -<p>The road from Durham to Alston, in Cumberland, passes by the field of -the Battle of Neville’s Cross, fought on St. Luke’s Eve, October 17, -1346, in which David of Scotland, who had invaded England while Edward -III. and all his forces were in France, was defeated by the troops which -he contemptuously called "an army of women and priests," because they -were raised by Queen Philippa, and the four divisions were commanded by -the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the Bishops of Lincoln and -Durham. The cross which Ralph, Lord Neville, erected on the battle-field -was destroyed in 1589.</p> - -<p>The next place of interest on the road is Brancepeth, which lies four -and a half miles south-west of Durham. The family of Bulmer of -Brancepeth held one of the early baronies of the Bishopric (see under -Evenwood); the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_42">{42}</a></span> estate finally descended to an heiress, the first of the -many noble ladies whose stories lend interest to the place. She married -Geoffry de Neville, <i>circa</i> 1150. Sixty years after, in 1227, there was -again a sole heiress to Brancepeth; she married Robert FitzMeldred, Lord -of Raby, and her son assumed his mother’s name, becoming the first -Neville of Raby and Brancepeth. When the Neville estates were forfeited -in 1570, the Countess of Westmorland was allowed to remain at the -castle, and there, though beset by spies, she contrived her husband’s -escape to Flanders. The surveys of the estate that were made in 1597 and -1614 mention that wild cattle were preserved in Brancepeth Park, as they -still are at Chillingham. The escheated lands passed from one owner to -another. In 1769 they were again inherited by an heiress, Bridgit, the -only daughter of William Bellasis. She died five years after coming into -her inheritance. The story goes that she pined away for love of a -neighbouring squire, Robert Shafto, who had wooed and forsaken her; and -the old Bishopric song of "Bobby Shafto" is said to be the record of the -brief happiness of the lovelorn lady.</p> - -<p>The market-town of Wolsingham lies sixteen miles west of Durham. It was -one of the Bishop’s forest vills, lying on the moors of Weardale; and in -the entry about it in Boldon Book mention is made of Ralf the Beekeeper, -who held six acres for his service in keeping the bees, which were sent -out on to the blossoming heather in the twelfth century, as they are to -this day. Wolsingham lies on the north bank of the Wear, and, after -passing through the village, the road follows the course of the river -westward to Stanhope, which lies in the lead-mining district of West -Durham. Half-way between Wolsingham and Stanhope lies Frosterley, where -are the quarries of Frosterley marble.</p> - -<p>Stanhope itself lay in the heart of the forest of Weardale, and was the -spot to which all those who owed hunting-service must make their way -when the Bishop’s great hunt was proclaimed. In 1327 the English and</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_009" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_042fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_042fp.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Brancepeth Castle in 1777.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p> - -<p>Scottish armies, commanded on the one side by Edward III., and on the -other by the Earl of Murray and Sir James Douglas, lay encamped for some -days over against each other on the hills round Stanhope. No battle was -fought, and the Scots withdrew by night, having deceived Edward by false -intelligence. The remains of the earthworks in which the two armies -entrenched themselves may still be seen.</p> - -<p>St. John’s Chapel, seven miles west of Stanhope, is the last -considerable village on the road to Alston before it crosses the -boundary of Durham. The chapel is mentioned in the fifteenth century, -and a market and annual fair were held there, but there were few -inhabitants until the end of the eighteenth century. From St. John’s -Chapel the road leads up over the moors, past the sources of the Wear, -and crosses the county boundary on Killhope Moor.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_44">{44}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="FOLK-LORE_OF_THE_COUNTY_OF_DURHAM"></a>FOLK-LORE OF THE COUNTY OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Mrs. Newton W. Apperley</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">W</span>HOEVER makes a study of the folk-lore of a county will find that its -customs, beliefs, and superstitions, have their origin in immemorial -antiquity. To find out the reason for many a curious and apparently -frivolous observance it is necessary to go back many centuries, to the -time when a nature-worship, already immeasurably old, was practised; -when the sun and moon, fire, water, and earth, were personified by gods -and goddesses. Festivals were held in honour of each, and stones and -trees, wells and rivers, had their temples and devotees. These were -overlaid by and mingled with the successive rituals of Roman, Saxon, and -Dane, and finally were almost, but not quite, conquered by Christianity. -The older faiths made a stubborn resistance to the reformer, and though -adapted and altered, many of their usages survive to this day.</p> - -<p>The four great Fire Festivals of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter were -Christianized and dedicated anew; some of the gods and goddesses were -re-named as saints; and many of the rites belonging to their worship -were modified into Christian observances.</p> - -<p>But the people kept their old superstitions, and placed their faith in -the charms and amulets belonging to the ancient worship. In the North -especially the old beliefs lingered long, and even now, in the twentieth -century, many quaint customs are to be found. Most of the people<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_45">{45}</a></span> who -practise them could give no reason for so doing, and have certainly no -knowledge of their origin. It is "lucky" to do this, and "unlucky" to do -that, is all they can say.</p> - -<p>The county of Durham, though the especial patrimony and property of St. -Cuthbert, is particularly rich in legends and traditions, in places both -haunted and hallowed, and in old-world observances of all kinds. Many -are the stories of giants, brownies, fairies, ghosts, witches, and -"worms" or dragons, told of and in it.</p> - -<p>The Gabriel Hounds—those monstrous human-headed dogs, whose pause over -a house is said to bring death or misfortune to its inmates—are still -heard traversing the air, though they are seldom seen.</p> - -<p>Tales of the Hand of Glory—that unhallowed taper made of the hand of a -hanged man, holding a candle made of the fat of a murderer, whose light -would send all the inhabitants of a house to sleep, and enable a burglar -to make his easy way throughout it—are still told.</p> - -<p>And the Fairy Hills near Castleton, Hetton-le-Hole, Middridge, and other -places where fairies used to dance their nightly rounds, are still -pointed out. Cattle were often shot by their tiny arrows, and children -frequently wore necklaces of coral or of peony seeds, as otherwise they -might have been stolen and taken away to Fairyland.</p> - -<p>Mr. Henderson, in his <i>Folk-lore of the Northern Counties</i>, is convinced -that there is firm faith in ghosts and their power of revisiting the -earth throughout the whole county of Durham.</p> - -<p>Witchcraft is to some extent believed in. It is not long since an old -woman reputed to be a witch died at Aycliffe, and charms against their -power have been, and are still, practised; indeed, they are still -"crossed-out" by those who make the sign of the cross on loaves before -they are put in the oven, and by the butchers who make, or used to make, -a cross on the shoulder before selling it. A crooked sixpence, a piece -of rowan-wood, or a four-leaved clover<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_46">{46}</a></span> worn in the pocket, will keep -them away. A self-bored stone or a horseshoe hung over the bed or in the -byre will prevent their evil influence from harming either person or -property; and should you be so unfortunate as to meet a reputed witch, -it is well to close your fingers round your thumb, and repeat the rhyme:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Witchy, witchy, I defy thee,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Let me go quietly by thee!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>And there were wise men, and especially wise women, who knew many spells -of might to be used against them and against fairies.</p> - -<p>It is clear that a child born into this haunted country, and surrounded -from his birth by signs, portents, and auguries, must carry through his -life a belief in the superstitions of his forefathers.</p> - -<p>The day of birth is most important, for it always influences the -character and fortunes of the child.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Monday’s child is fair of face,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Tuesday’s child is full of grace,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Wednesday’s child is full of woe,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Thursday’s child has far to go,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Friday’s child is loving and giving,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Saturday’s child works hard for its living;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But the child that’s born on Sabbath-day<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Is wise and bonny and good and gay."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Children born during the hour after midnight see spirits, and this -uncanny gift continues through life. If born with a caul, the child will -always be lucky. Children born in May are said to be seldom healthy.</p> - -<p>A cake and cheese should always be provided before the birth of an -infant. These are cut by the doctor, and all present partake of them, on -pain of the poor child growing up ugly. The nurse keeps some of this -cake and cheese, and when she takes the child to be christened she gives -them to the first person whom she meets of opposite sex to that of the -child. If boys and girls are being christened at the same time, the boys -must be christened first, as otherwise the girls would have beards, the -boys none!<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p> - -<p>Baptism is thought to be good for a child, and it is often said that -children never thrive till they are christened. It is well if they cry -during the ceremony, for it means that "the devil is going out of them." -There is some warrant for this belief, for until the time of Edward VI. -a form of exorcism, in order to expel the evil spirit from the child, -was still used in the Baptismal Service.</p> - -<p>A child who does not cry at baptism will not live.</p> - -<p>It is unlucky to call a child by its future name until it has actually -received it, and most especially should one avoid naming it after a dead -brother or sister. The child will probably die also, or, if it lives, -will never prosper.</p> - -<p>Some nurses will never put a child’s dress over its head until it is -christened, but always draw it up over the feet. I never could hear why. -And the inside of the hands should not be washed during this time. Some -go so far as to say that the right hand should not be washed for a year, -so as not to "wash the luck away."</p> - -<p>But before taking a child out of its mother’s room the careful nurse -will see that it does not go downstairs first, as that would mean a -descent in life for it. If it is impossible for it to go upstairs, she -must take it in her arms, and mount a chair or stool with it, thereby -assuring it of a rise in life.</p> - -<p>The mother should go nowhere till she has been churched, as she would -carry ill-luck to the house she entered.</p> - -<p>The baby should receive three, sometimes four, presents when it first -visits another house. These are its "almison," and consist of an egg, -bread, salt, and sometimes a piece of money. The bread and salt are -things used in sacrifices; the egg has always been a sacred emblem; the -money is for luck, and should be carefully kept.</p> - -<p>Never rock a cradle when empty, or you may rock another baby into it. -And this is very likely to be the case if the reigning baby cuts its -teeth very early, for, as the proverb says, "Soon teeth, soon toes" -(another set of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_48">{48}</a></span> them). If it tooths first in the upper jaw, that means -death in infancy. Later, on losing a tooth, the cavity should be filled -with salt, and the tooth thrown into the fire with the words:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Fire, fire, burn bane,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">God send me my tooth again!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>It is an ancient custom, when a family is sold up, to except the cradle, -and leave it in the possession of its original owner.</p> - -<p>The nails should not be cut for a year, or the child will become a -thief. Bite them off, and all will be well.</p> - -<p>When the child grows older, the nails should never be cut on Friday or -Sunday. These are unlucky days, but, as the rhyme tells us, other days -do very well:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Cut them on Monday, cut them for health;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cut them on Tuesday, cut them for wealth;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cut them on Wednesday, cut them for news;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cut them on Thursday, a pair of new shoes;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cut them on Friday, cut them for sorrow;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Cut them on Saturday, a present to-morrow;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But he who on Sunday cuts his horn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Better that he had ne’er been born!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Still later in life, another verse says:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Sunday shaven, Sunday shorn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Better hadst thou ne’er been born!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The hair should always be cut when the moon is waxing, and all clippings -and combings should be burnt, or "the birds will take it for their -nests." Probably the original idea, like that attached to the clippings -of the nails, was that they should be destroyed, lest some enemy should -use them to work an evil spell against the owner.</p> - -<p>If the hair burn brightly when thrown into the fire, it means long life -to the owner; if it smoulder, it is a sign of death.</p> - -<p>If you swallow a hair, it will wrap itself round your heart and kill -you. Howitt tells this seriously as having caused the death of Herbert -Southey.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p> - -<p>The mother should be careful to see that no child is allowed to jump -over the head of another, as in that case the overleapt infant would -never grow. The Kafirs have the same idea, and some tribes will not play -leap-frog for that reason.</p> - -<p>When a seventh son is born, it is still said that he ought to be a -doctor. He was anciently supposed to be able to cure the "king’s evil" -by touching; and the seventh son of a seventh son had still higher and -more Divine attributes. If a seventh daughter appeared without any boy -intervening, she was to be a witch.</p> - -<p>When the boy is old enough to put his instilled and inherited beliefs -into practice, he may charm the butterfly to alight on his hand by -saying (it must be said often enough!):</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Le, la let, ma bonnie pet!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>If he wishes for fine weather, he may sing:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Rain, rain, go to Spain!<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Fair weather come again!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The snail will look out from its shell if he says:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Snail, snail, come out of your hole,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Or else I’ll beat you as black as a coal!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>And when stung by a nettle, dock-leaves are laid on the stung place, and -this rhyme chanted:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Nettle in, dock out;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Dock in, nettle out;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Nettle in, dock out;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Dock rub nettle out!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>If he puts a horse-hair into water, it will turn into an eel.</p> - -<p>Durham schoolboys used, when they saw a rainbow, to make a cross of -straws or twigs upon the ground, in order to send it away, or, as they -said, to "cross out the rainbow."</p> - -<p>Borrow tells of "the gipsy mystery of the trus’hul, how by making a -cross of two sticks the expert in occultism<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_50">{50}</a></span> could wipe the rainbow out -of the heavens"; and the charm might have its roots still farther back -in the cross of Thor, anciently used to dispel rain and thunderstorms.</p> - -<p>In Confirmation, those who are touched by the Bishop’s left hand will -never marry.</p> - -<p>When the time for marriage comes, it is important to choose a lucky day -and season. The days of the week are thus fated:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Monday for wealth, Tuesday for health,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Wednesday the best day of all;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Thursday for losses, Friday for crosses,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And Saturday no luck at all."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>It is well to avoid marriage in Lent, for</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"If you marry in Lent,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">You’ll live to repent."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>And May is an unlucky month for weddings, as for births. But the time -being happily settled, the bride must not hear the banns given out, or -her children will be deaf and dumb, and neither she nor any of the -guests must wear anything green. She should wear</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Something old, something new,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Something borrowed, and something blue."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The day of the marriage should be fine, "for happy is the bride whom the -sun shines on." The bridal party is escorted to church by men armed with -guns, which they continually fire. After the ceremony it is the -clergyman’s privilege to kiss the bride; and outside the church people -are probably waiting with "hot-pots," of which the whole party must -taste.</p> - -<p>At St. Helen’s Auckland, and other villages, the "race for the -bride-door" for a ribbon or kerchief is still customary.</p> - -<p>And it was formerly the custom to address complimentary verses to the -bridal couple before they left the church. This was called "saying the -Nominy." The verses differed, were of no great poetical merit, and -always ended with, "Pray remember the Nominy sayer."<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_51">{51}</a></span></p> - -<p>The word is evidently derived from <i>nomen</i>, the bride having received a -new name.</p> - -<p>The loss of the wedding-ring means the loss of the husband’s love, and -its breaking forbodes death.</p> - -<p>Of portents of death there are many. The howling of dogs; the flight of -jackdaws or swallows down the chimney; "a winding-sheet" in the candle; -the crowing of a cock at the dead of night; the hovering of birds round -the house, or their resting on the window-sill, or flapping against the -pane; and three raps given by an invisible hand, are all auguries of -death.</p> - -<p>If thirteen persons sit down to a meal together, one of them will die -before the year is out.</p> - -<p>The custom of keeping the Vigil of St. Mark is not unknown. They who -wish to know who of their fellow-parishioners will die during the coming -year must keep watch in the church porch from eleven to one, on St. -Mark’s Eve, for three successive years; then the doomed company will -pass into the church. But if the watcher fall asleep during his vigil, -he will himself die during the year.</p> - -<p>At the time of death the door should be left open to afford free passage -to the departing spirit. It is held that no one can die on a bed or -pillow containing the feathers of pigeons or of game of any kind; and -all along the East Coast it is said that people usually die during the -falling of the tide.</p> - -<p>When the corpse is "laid out," the death-chamber is shrouded in white, -the clock is stopped, and the looking-glass covered, to show that for -the dead time is no more and earthly vanity departed. There is also the -dread that if the mirror were left uncovered the ghost of the dead man -might be reflected in it.</p> - -<p>A plate of salt is also placed upon the breast as an emblem of eternity.</p> - -<p>Those who come to see the corpse are expected to touch it, in token that -they are in peace with the dead. It is often said that if you do not -touch it you will dream<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_52">{52}</a></span> of it. The coffin must be carried to the church -by the old-established "church-road," and the notion still prevails that -the way over which a body is carried to its burial thereby becomes a -highroad. Therefore in the case of private roads or bridges (the -Prebend’s Bridge at Durham, certainly) a small toll is levied when a -funeral procession passes over it. The coffin-bearers are usually chosen -so as to correspond with the deceased in sex, age, and position. In the -case of children and young girls, white scarves and gloves are worn; and -if the dead person were a young unmarried woman, a "maiden garland" used -to be laid on the coffin, and hung up in the church after the funeral. -There are, or were, some of these garlands hanging in the church of -Witton-Gilbert, near Durham. These have a glove, cut out of white paper, -in the midst.</p> - -<p>When arrived at the churchyard, the dead must be carried to the grave -the way of the sun (east, by south, west, and north, for "ye wad no hae -them carry the dead again the sun; the dead maun aye go wi’ the sun." -This is an old British usage, and in the Highlands is called "making the -deisul." It is practised to bring good luck; to go round in the opposite -direction (or "withershins") is an evil incantation, and brings -ill-fortune.</p> - -<p>It should rain a little during the procession, for "happy is the corpse -that the rain rains on!"</p> - -<p>It used to be customary for anyone meeting a funeral to stop for a -moment and take his hat off. This is still occasionally done.</p> - -<p>The survivors should not grieve too much for the dead, as this hinders -their repose.</p> - -<p>When the head of a house dies, the bees should be told of their master’s -death, and asked to accept the new one, or they will all die.</p> - -<p>It is said that if a loaf of bread weighted with quicksilver be allowed -to float in the water, it will swim towards, and stand over the place -where the body of a drowned person lies.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_53">{53}</a></span></p> - -<p>There is a remedy for most diseases in the shape of a spell or charm.</p> - -<p>Whooping-cough may be cured by passing the child under an ass; or by -taking some milk, giving half to a white ferret, letting the child drink -the rest. In Sunderland, the crown of the head is shaved and the hair -hung upon a bush, so that the birds, carrying it to their nests, may -take the cough with it.</p> - -<p>For epilepsy, a half-crown may be offered at Communion and then asked -for again, and made into a ring to be worn by the person affected.</p> - -<p>For cramp, garter the left leg below the knee, or tie an eel’s skin -round it.</p> - -<p>A more unpleasant remedy is that for a wen, for the touch of a corpse’s -hand will cure it. "Andrew Mills’s stob" (gibbet) was once thought -sovereign against toothache.</p> - -<p>Warts can be charmed away by taking a piece of raw meat (it ought to be -stolen), rubbing the warts with it, and throwing it away. As the meat -decays the warts will vanish.</p> - -<p>If anyone is bitten by a dog, the animal should be destroyed, for, -should it go mad at any time, the person bitten would be attacked by -hydrophobia.</p> - -<p>St. Agnes’s Fast (January 21) is thus practised: Two girls, each wishing -to see their future husbands, must fast and be dumb through the whole of -St. Agnes’s Eve. At night, in the same silence, they must make "the dumb -cake," aided by their friends, then divide it in two parts, one of which -each girl takes, walks backwards upstairs, cuts the cake, and retires to -bed. Then dreams of the future husband should follow.</p> - -<p>And girls will stick a candle-end full of pins to bring their lovers to -them. Or, taking an apple-pip, and naming the lover, will put it in the -fire. If it burst with a noise he loves, but if it burns silently his -love is nought.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_54">{54}</a></span></p> - -<p>If a girl wishes to meet her future husband, she must carry an ash-leaf -having an even tip, and say—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The even ash-leaf in my hand,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The first I meet shall be my man."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>If it is found difficult to rear calves, the leg of one of the dead -animals should be hung in the chimney. In Yorkshire, the dead calf is -buried under the threshold of the byre, either practice being -(unconsciously) a sacrifice to Odin.</p> - -<p>"To work as though one was working for need-fire," is a common proverb -in the North, and refers to the practice of producing fire by the -friction of two pieces of wood. This was done when the murrain prevailed -among cattle, and the diseased animals were made to pass through the -smoke raised by this holy fire. This was considered a certain cure. When -cattle have foul in the feet, the turf on which the beast treads with -the affected foot is taken up and hung in the open air. As it crumbles -away, so will the diseased foot recover.</p> - -<p>And the water in which Irish and other stones have been steeped has been -used in the Bishopric as a cure for disease for cattle.</p> - -<p>If you seize the opportunities, which are many, you may have what you -please by wishing for it. But the condition is in every case the same: -the nature of the wish must be kept secret. You may journey to Jarrow, -and sitting in Bede’s chair, make your wish; or, nearer at hand, there -is a stone seat at Finchale Priory credited with the same power. If you -see a horseshoe or a nail, pick it up, throw it over your left shoulder -and wish; and wish also if you see a piebald horse, but you must manage -to do so before you see its tail.</p> - -<p>You may wish, too, when you first hear the cuckoo, and when you see the -new moon.</p> - -<p>Much reverence has in all ages been paid to wells. The Worm Well at -Lambton was once in high repute as a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_55">{55}</a></span> wishing-well, and a crooked pin -(the usual tribute of the "wishers") may be sometimes still discovered -sparkling among the clear gravel of the bottom of the basin.</p> - -<p>As late as 1740 children troubled with any infirmity were brought to the -Venerable Bede’s Well, at Monkton, near Jarrow. A crooked pin was put -in, and the well laved dry between each dipping.</p> - -<p>Pins may sometimes be seen in Lady Byron’s Well at Seaham. There was a -custom (which cannot now be practised, as the monument is railed in) of -walking nine times round Neville’s Cross. "Then if you stoop down, and -lay your head to the turf, you’ll hear the noise of the battle and the -clash of the armour."</p> - -<p>The weather-wise will tell you that if the leaves remain long upon the -trees in autumn it is going to be a hard winter, and will bid you notice -how the wind blows on New Year’s Eve:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"If on New Year’s Eve the night wind blow south,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">It betokeneth warmth and growth;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">If west, much milk and fish in the sea;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">If north, much cold and storms there will be;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">If east, the trees will bear much fruit;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">If north-east, flee it, man and brute."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Candlemas Day (February 2) should also be observed:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"If Candlemas Day be fair and bright,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Winter will have another flight;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">If Candlemas Day be clouds and rain,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Winter is gone, and will not come again."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Some pretend to prophesy the coming weather from that of the last three -days of March. These are called the "borrowing days."</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"March borrowed from April<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Three days and they war ill;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The first o’ them war wind and weet,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The next o’ them war snaw and sleet,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The last o’ them war wind and rain,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Which gar’d the silly puir ewes come hirpling hame."<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_56">{56}</a></span></div></div> -</div> - -<p>Of Michaelmas Day it is said: "So many days old the moon is on -Michaelmas Day, so many floods after."</p> - -<p>If it rains on Friday it is sure to rain on Sunday—“wet Friday, wet -Sunday."</p> - -<p>Watch the cat as she washes her face, and if she passes her paw over her -ear it will rain to-morrow.</p> - -<p>The oak and ash-trees are considered to prophesy the weather:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"If the oak bud before the ash,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">We shall be sure to have a splash;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But if the ash bud before the oak,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">We shall have weather as hard as a rock."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>If you will begin the year auspiciously, be careful that your first foot -"is a fair man." Men still go about to "bring the New Year in," and -their guerdon is usually a glass of whisky. On no account should a woman -be the first foot, for she would bring misfortune. But before this the -New Year has been ushered in by the ringing of church bells, and -sounding of buzzers from all the collieries.</p> - -<p>Nothing should be allowed to go out of the house on this day, for that -would mean a year of poverty, but as much as possible should be brought -in, as that will insure a year of plenty; and for the same reason a new -dress should be worn with money in its pocket.</p> - -<p>Be careful to avoid seeing the first moon of the year through glass; -courtesy to her, and wish.</p> - -<p>The day before Shrove Tuesday is known as Collop Monday, and on it eggs -and bacon should be eaten.</p> - -<p>Pancakes, of course, are appropriate to Shrove Tuesday; in fact, it is -better known in the North as Pancake Tuesday. Durham children still -believe that on this day pancakes fall out of the mouth of the great -medieval knocker fixed on the north door of the cathedral, and are -sometimes seen bringing plates or baskets to receive the dole, and sugar -with which to eat it.</p> - -<p>The Pancake Bell still rings from the cathedral to call<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_57">{57}</a></span> the faithful to -confession, though neither confessional nor pancakes are existent.</p> - -<p>Football usually begins now and continues till Easter.</p> - -<p>Carlings, or grey peas soaked in water and fried in butter, are eaten on -Carling Sunday.</p> - -<p>"He who hath not a palm in his hand on Palm Sunday must have his hand -cut off," so "palm crosses" were always made for Palm Sunday of willow -catkins, tied up with ribbon, and kept till next year.</p> - -<p>On Good Friday "hot cross buns," a sort of teacake made with spice and -sugar, and marked with a cross, are always made; and fig pudding, or -"fig sue," is eaten, in memory of the fig-tree cursed by our Lord when -He rode to Jerusalem.</p> - -<p>No blacksmith in the county of Durham would at one time drive a nail on -this day, in memory of our Lord’s crucifixion.</p> - -<p>Good Friday and Easter Sunday were both thought lucky days on which to -cast the coats and caps of young children, or to short-coat them.</p> - -<p>You must put on something new on Easter Sunday, or the birds will spoil -your clothes.</p> - -<p>Paste-eggs boiled hard and dyed with ribbons or wool, whinblossoms or -onion peelings, are rolled on the grass, or "jauped" against each other -till broken, and tansy puddings should be eaten.</p> - -<p>Balls are often given to children and played with by them, this being a -relic of the custom of playing at "handball" at Easter.</p> - -<p>On Easter Sunday the boys may pull off the girls’ shoes; but on Easter -Monday the girls may retaliate by pulling off the caps of the boys.</p> - -<p>"All Fools’ Day" is still kept to some extent, chiefly by schoolboys, -who send their victims to the chemist for oil of hazel, or "strap oil," -which they receive in a dry form from the irate shop-keeper!</p> - -<p>They also wear oak-leaves on Royal Oak Day; and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_58">{58}</a></span> the choristers of -Durham Cathedral go to the top of the central tower and sing anthems. -This, though now done in honour of the Restoration, was originally in -thanksgiving for the victory of Neville’s Cross, and used to take place -in October.</p> - -<p>And it is schoolboys, too, who keep Guy Fawkes’ Day in remembrance, for -the noise of crackers and fireworks and the excitement of a bonfire do -very much appeal to them. Guys are now seldom carried about, but are -sometimes burnt.</p> - -<p>The "mell-supper" in the county of Durham (from the Norse <i>melr</i>, corn) -is akin to the Northumbrian "kirn-feast," and is held when the last -sheaf is brought in. When this is done, the farmer’s headman proceeds to -"shout the mell":</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Blest be the day that Christ was born.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">We’ve getten mell o’ Mr. ——’s corn.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Weel won and better shorn.<br /></span> -<span class="i5">Hip, hip, hip, huzza, huzza!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">This last sheaf used to be dressed in finery and crowned with wheatears, -hoisted on a pole, and all the harvesters danced round this "kern-baby," -or harvest-queen, who afterward presided over the supper. Mummers, or -"guisers," used to attend the feast, but all these usages are dying out, -and the master often gives the harvesters money or ale instead of the -supper. This is the old autumn feast of the ingathering of the corn, and -in Brito-Roman times the image was that of the goddess Ceridwen, -answering to Ceres. Later, it stood for the Virgin Mary.</p> - -<p>You must not gather brambles after October, or the devil will come after -you! He is evidently about at this time, for when the brambles are -spoilt at the end of the season, it is said that "the devil has set his -foot on the bummelkites," this being their local name.</p> - -<p>Hallow E’en sports are still practised, the mystic apple so often -appearing in Celtic fairy-lore, playing a great part<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_59">{59}</a></span> in them. Apples -are ducked for in a tub of water with the mouth, the hands being clasped -behind the back. A small rod of wood is sometimes suspended from the -ceiling, a lighted candle being fixed at one end, and an apple at the -other. The apple has to be caught by the teeth when it passes before -them, and if it is carefully pared, so that the peel comes off in one -strip, and this is flung over the left shoulder, it will form the -initials of the loved one’s name. Or it may be eaten before a mirror, -and the lover’s face will be reflected therein; but on no account must -the worker of this spell look backwards.</p> - -<p>At Christmas-tide Yule cakes and "Yule dollies" are made, these last -being quaint figures made of dough, with currants to mark their features -and the outlines of their dress. Furmety (wheat boiled in milk) is -eaten, the Yule log is burnt, and the Christmas stocking is hung up that -gifts may be placed in it. Candles are still given by grocers; the -fruiterer presents a bunch of mistletoe; children come round and sing -carols, bearing a box containing figures of the Virgin and Child. The -sword-dancers or "guisers" come, perform a dance and sing a song, the -words of which vary considerably.</p> - -<p>Finally, as many mince-pies as you eat at Christmas, so many happy -months will you have.</p> - -<p>Here is "a copious catalogue of things lucky and unlucky," at least of -those considered as such in the Bishopric:</p> - -<p>If you accidentally put on a stocking, or indeed any garment, inside -out, it is most fortunate, and the mistake should not be rectified, you -will turn the luck.</p> - -<p>But if you put a button or hook into the wrong hole while dressing in -the morning, something unpleasant will happen to you during the day.</p> - -<p>"Sing before breakfast, cry before supper," is an oft-quoted proverb, -perhaps deduced from the common belief that unusually high spirits -portend coming misfortune.</p> - -<p>When a child first puts on a dress with a pocket in it,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_60">{60}</a></span> its father -should put some money into it; this means lifelong riches.</p> - -<p>On putting on a new dress, a well-wisher will say to the owner, "I wish -you health to wear it, strength to tear it, and money to buy another."</p> - -<p>Similarly, when a young tradesman first dons his apron, it is well to -say to him: "Weel may ye brook your apron." This, if said by a lucky -person, will insure the young man’s success in life.</p> - -<p>If a spider is found on the clothes, it means that money is coming to -you; and if clothes must be mended while being worn, you will lose -money.</p> - -<p>If the hem of your dress persistently turns up, a letter is coming to -you.</p> - -<p>If your apron falls off, someone is thinking of you.</p> - -<p>Those who can always guess the time accurately will never be married.</p> - -<p>If the nose itches, you will be annoyed; if the foot, you will travel.</p> - -<p>Itching of the right hand, money is coming to you; of the left, that you -will have to pay money; of the ear, hearing sudden news.</p> - -<p>If the right ear tingles, someone is defaming you.</p> - -<p>If you shiver, someone is walking over your grave.</p> - -<p>A blessing is still invoked on people when they sneeze.</p> - -<p>Meeting eyebrows are fortunate; so is a mole on the neck, at least, it -means health to the owner, but some say that it brings him in danger of -hanging.</p> - -<p>Always enter a house with your right foot first; to enter with the left -foot brings ill luck to the inhabitants, and you must go back and repair -the mistake.</p> - -<p>If you stumble, by accident, in going upstairs, you will be married the -same year; the same if you snuff out the candle (this omen is becoming -rarer with the decline of tallow candles).</p> - -<p>If two people wash their hands in the same basin,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_61">{61}</a></span> they are sure to -quarrel before bedtime, but this may be prevented by making the sign of -the cross over the water.</p> - -<p>If your eyes are weak, have your ears pierced, it will benefit them.</p> - -<p>If a loaf be turned upside down after cutting, it is unlucky. Along the -coast they say that it causes a ship to be wrecked. The same if three -candles are placed upon the table.</p> - -<p>If a loaf breaks in the hand while cutting it, you part man and wife.</p> - -<p>And spilling the salt is as ominous here as elsewhere, but you may amend -your luck by throwing a pinch three times over your left shoulder with -your right hand.</p> - -<p>"Help me to saut, help me to sorrow," would be the answer to the person -who should offer to place salt on the plate of another.</p> - -<p>To cross the knife and fork is a sign of bad luck. To give a knife cuts -love; it should always be paid for. Only last Christmas I gave a knife -to an old friend, and she punctiliously sent a penny to me in payment -for it.</p> - -<p>Do not lend a pin, your friend may take one, but it is unlucky to give -it.</p> - -<p>Never begin anything on Friday, it will not prosper.</p> - -<p>If you must pass under a ladder, cross your fingers and wish. The -unsophisticated spit; and if you are walking with anyone wait for him to -speak first, and any ill luck that may be coming will fall on his head.</p> - -<p>"Spitting for luck" is still common enough. Hucksters and fish-women -spit on the handsel (the first money they receive), and many -horsedealers do the same. Colliers, when considering a strike, used to -spit on one stone together, by way of cementing their confederacy, and -schoolboys used to spit their faith when making a challenge to fight. -This was considered a sacred pledge which it was thought a point of -honour to fulfil.</p> - -<p>It is wrong to point at the stars, or even to count them; you may be -struck dead for doing so.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_62">{62}</a></span></p> - -<p>Hawthorn blossoms should not be brought into the house; they are as -unlucky as peacock’s feathers, which also should never be brought -indoors.</p> - -<p>And evergreens should not be burnt.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"If you burn green,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Your sorrow’s soon seen."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The luck of three is much believed in. If you fail twice in trying to do -a thing, you will probably succeed in the third trial. "The third time’s -catchy time."</p> - -<p>Servants say that if they break one thing they are sure to break three, -a foreboding which not seldom comes true.</p> - -<p>And when the minute-bell of the cathedral rings once it is bound to ring -three times.</p> - -<p>If you break a looking-glass, you will have no luck for seven years. -Some say that it betokens a death in the house, probably that of its -master.</p> - -<p>If a black cat enters the house, it must by no means be turned away, for -it brings good luck.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Wherever the cat of the house is black,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The lasses of lovers will have no lack."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Kittens born in May are unlucky and useless, never keep them.</p> - -<p>It is lucky, when you see the first lamb of the year, if its head is -turned towards you; but unlucky, if its tail.</p> - -<p>It is thought that hedgehogs suck cows as they lie asleep.</p> - -<p>A toad is poisonous; do not touch it.</p> - -<p>In all ages the flight and behaviour of birds have been thought worthy -of notice.</p> - -<p>When setting hens, the number of eggs should be odd (generally eleven or -thirteen); if the number be even, you will have no chickens. A hen that -crows brings ill luck, just as does a woman who whistles.</p> - -<p>If the hens come into the house, or if the cock crows on the threshold, -a visitor is coming. If you have money in your pocket and turn it when -you first hear the cuckoo<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_63">{63}</a></span> you will be rich all that year; but if your -pocket be empty so it will remain. There is a small bird attending on -the cuckoo, generally a meadow-pipit. It is called in Durham the -cuckoo’s sandy, and is supposed to provide its patron with food.</p> - -<p>When the peacock screams, it is going to rain.</p> - -<p>The magpie is an unlucky bird because it would not go into the ark with -Noah, but sat outside, "jabbering at the drowned world."</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"One is sorrow, two mirth,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Three a wedding, four a birth,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Five heaven, six hell,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Seven the de’il’s ain sel’!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>But if you have the misfortune to see one magpie you may nullify the -omen by making the sign of the cross, or, as some do, by waving a hand -at the evil bird, and saying, "Mag, I defy thee."</p> - -<p>The raven is thought to be an unlucky bird, though here in Durham city -we should think better of it, for one made the fortune of Sir John Duck -by dropping a gold piece at his feet when he was a poor out-of-work -butcher-boy. He became a rich coal-owner, and in his memory coals are -often called "ducks" in Durham; and the "Old Duck Main" still exists at -Rainton.</p> - -<p>If rooks, or crows, as we call them here, desert a rookery, it means the -downfall of the family on whose property it is. Swallows, once sacred to -the Penates, and honoured as the heralds of the spring, are lucky, and -their nests must never be pulled down, as they bring good fortune to the -place where they build, and it bodes ill luck if they leave a place they -have once tenanted.</p> - -<p>Naturally, much local lore has gathered round the cathedral, the great -Mother-Church of the diocese. The death superstition relating to the -minute-bell, the ringing of the Pancake Bell, and the legend of the -knocker, have already been mentioned. The Curfew Bell still rings at -nine (the hour of compline), not at eight, as in other<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_64">{64}</a></span> places, but -never on Saturday, because on the night of that day a man, who went -alone to ring, was spirited away, and never seen again.</p> - -<p>When, on May 29, the choristers go to the central tower, they sing -anthems on three sides only, and except the western side, because it was -from this point that the man leaped whose tombstone is seen below. It is -a mutilated effigy of Frosterly marble, and is said to represent Hob of -Pelaw, holding the purse of money for which he risked and lost his life, -and the fossils in the marble are said, by schoolboys, to be the coins -contained in it. Country people come, for some unknown reason, to draw -their foot over the purse.</p> - -<p>Curiously, the churchyard here is on the north side of the church. The -cloisters are ceiled with Irish oak, so that they never harbour dust or -cobwebs, and the saying goes that if the Protestants were not always -doing something to the cathedral the Catholics could take it away from -them!</p> - -<p>There is no church at Butterby, and you will often hear a man who is not -in the habit of attending Divine worship spoken of as a "Butterby -churchgoer."</p> - -<p>These old-world beliefs and stories are fast fading away before the -advance of the schoolmaster; but they linger yet in the minds of old -people, and it will be long before they are quite forgotten.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_010" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_064fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_064fp.jpg" width="600" height="312" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Palace Green, Durham.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_65">{65}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="THE_LEGENDS_OF_DURHAM"></a>THE LEGENDS<a id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Miss Florence N. Cockburn</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE northern counties are all rich in legendary history, and the county -of Durham has its full share.</p> - -<p>Curiously, instead of most of the legends being of an ecclesiastical -nature, as one would naturally expect in a county where the Church has -predominated for many<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_66">{66}</a></span> centuries, the contrary is the case. All the -best-known legends are of deadly war waged with some uncouth or venomous -monster, in which, without exception, some local hero, -Jack-the-Giant-Killer-like, comes off victorious.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Dun Cow.</i></p> - -<p>Visitors to Durham rarely leave without having the sculptured panel -representing the famous Dun Cow on the cathedral front pointed out to -them.</p> - -<p>The legend runs that the monks, having fled from Chester-le-Street and -rested with the body of the saint for some time at Ripon, were desirous -of returning to Chester. "Coming with him (St. Cuthbert) on the east -side of Durham to a place called Ward-lawe, they could not with all -their force remove his body from thence, which seemed to be fastened to -the ground, which strange and unexpected accident wrought great -admiration in the heart of the bishops, monks, and their associates, -and, ergo, they fasted and prayed three days with great reverence and -devotion, desiring to know by revelation what they should do with the -holy body of St. Cuthbert, which thing was granted unto them, and -therein they were directed to carry him to Dunholme (Durham). But being -distressed because they were ignorant where Dunholme was, see their good -fortune. As they were going a woman that lacked her cow did call aloud -to her companion to know if she did not see her, who answered with a -loud voice that her cow was in Dunholme, a happy and heavenly echo to -the distressed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_67">{67}</a></span> monks, who by that means were at the end of their -journey, where they should find a resting-place for the body of their -honoured saint."</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_011" style="width: 342px;"> -<a href="images/i_067.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_067.jpg" width="342" height="453" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Dun Cow.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Brawn of Brancepeth.</i></p> - -<p>At what time the brawn, or boar, ceased to exist as a wild animal in -Britain is uncertain, but it was at one time a common inhabitant of our -British forests, and protected by the law in the tenth and eleventh -centuries.</p> - -<p>The village of Brancepeth (a corruption of Brawn’s path) is said to have -derived its name from a formidable brawn of vast size, which made his -lair on Brandon Hill, and walked the forest in ancient times, and was a -terror to all the inhabitants from the Wear to the Gaunless. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_68">{68}</a></span> -marshy, and then woody, vale extending from Croxdale to Ferry Wood was -one of the brawn’s favourite haunts. According to tradition, Hodge of -Ferry, after carefully marking the boar’s track near Cleves Cross, dug a -pitfall, slightly covered with boughs and turf, and then, toiling on his -victim by some bait to the treacherous spot, stood, armed with his good -sword, across the pitfall—“at once with hope and fear his heart -rebounds."</p> - -<p>At length the gallant brute came trotting on its onward path, and, -seeing the passage barred, rushed headlong on the vile pitfall to meet -its death. It is generally believed that this champion of Cleves sleeps -in Merrington churchyard, beneath a coffin-shaped stone, rudely -sculptured with the instruments of the victory—a sword and spade on -each side of a cross.</p> - -<p>Another stone, supposed to be the remnant of a cross, stands on the hill -near the farm of Cleves Cross, and is said to have probably been raised -on the same occasion. It was not unusual, in England or abroad, when a -man had slain a boar, wolf, or spotted pard, to bear the animal as an -ensign in his shield. We believe that the seal of Roger de Ferry still -remains in the treasury at Durham, exhibiting his old antagonist, a boar -passant. The seal of his daughter Maud, wife of Alan of Merrington, -shows the boar’s head erased.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Pollard Boar.</i></p> - -<p>A family of the name of Pollard was seated at an early period in the -parish of Bishop Auckland; and one of their estates was called Pollard’s -Dene, and the ceremony of presenting a falchion to the Bishop soon after -his entrance into the See was performed by the possessors of Pollard’s -lands.</p> - -<p>The legend of how a Pollard gained this land runs as follows:</p> - -<p>The King offered to anyone who would bring the head<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_69">{69}</a></span> of a wild boar, -which destroyed man and beast, to his palace "a princely guerdon," and -the Bishop of Durham, who passed the greater part of the year at -Auckland Castle, having also promised a large reward, a member of the -ancient family of Pollard determined to kill the brute, or die in the -attempt. So this courageous knight armed himself, mounted his trusty -steed, and rode to the lair of the boar, and noted its track. After -tying his horse to a tree, out of its regular course, he climbed a -beech-tree under which the monster often passed, and shook down a large -quantity of ripe beechmast.</p> - -<p>There he waited until the boar came, and had the satisfaction of seeing -it make a good meal. In time it showed signs of drowsiness, and -commenced moving from the place. Pollard, feeling that the time had come -for action, made an onslaught on the boar. After so hearty a meal, it -was not in a fighting humour, but nevertheless made a fierce resistance, -and taxed to the utmost the prowess of the knight. The encounter lasted -the greater part of the night, and the welcome rays of the sun burst -forth as he severed the head from the trunk of the boar. Having cut out -its tongue and placed it in his wallet, he decided to rest for a short -time under a tree; but a deep sleep overcame him, and led to a serious -disappointment, for when he awoke he discovered that the head had been -taken away. He was in great despair, for he had not the trophy to take -to the King to obtain the promised prize; so, mounting his horse, he -rode to the Bishop and told his tale, and, showing the tongue, his -lordship, who was about to dine, rejoiced to hear the good news, and, as -a reward, promised the knight as much land as he could ride round during -the hour of dinner. When he next came before the prelate, he startled -the latter by intimating that he had ridden round his castle, and -claimed it and all it contained as his meed. The Bishop was loath to -part with his stronghold, but was bound to admit the validity of the -claim, and eventually made a compromise by granting him an extensive -freehold<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_70">{70}</a></span> estate known to this day as Pollard’s Land. These broad acres -were given with the condition attached that the possessor should meet -every Bishop of Durham on his first coming to Auckland, and present to -him a falchion with this speech: "My lord, I, in behalf of myself as -well as several others, possessors of the Pollard’s lands, do humbly -present your lordship with this falchion, at your first coming here, -wherewith, as the tradition goeth, he slew of old a mighty boar, which -did much harm to man and beast; and by performing this service we hold -our lands."</p> - -<p>Hutchinson, rather curiously, quotes a letter signed "R. Bowser," -commencing: "Sir, inclosed you have the speech my brother Pewterer gave -me out of Lord Bishop Cosin’s old Book," in which the boar is described -as "a venomous serpent."</p> - -<p>Dr. Longley, created Bishop of Durham in the year 1856, was the last -Bishop to whom the falchion was presented.</p> - -<p>The crest of the Pollard family is an arm holding a falchion. As to the -missing head, it is related that while Pollard slept the head of the -Northumbrian family of Mitford passed, saw what had occurred, seized the -head, and rode with all speed to the King, and gained the reward. The -champion Pollard also sought an interview with His Majesty, and giving -the facts, showed that the head presented had not a tongue; he was, -however, dismissed without any recompense, the King declining to -entertain a second claim.</p> - -<p>There is in the parish church of St. Andrew’s Auckland an old wooden -effigy representing a knight in a suit of chain armour, cross-legged, -with his feet resting on a boar, and it is generally believed that this -monument was erected in memory of our hero.</p> - -<p>In sequel it should perhaps be added that the Mitfords have for many -centuries borne as their crest two arms holding a sword pierced through -the head of a boar; and as a commentary, perhaps, upon the principle -that fortune</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_012" style="width: 405px;"> -<a href="images/i_070fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_070fp.jpg" width="405" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Hilton Castle from the North.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_71">{71}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">helps those who help themselves, they flaunt the pious motto:</p> - -<p class="c"> -GOD + CARYTHE + FOR + US.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Cau’d Lad of Hilton.</i></p> - -<p>The grey old castle of Hilton has long had the reputation of being -haunted by a bar-guest, or local spirit, known as the "cau’d lad of -Hilton," or "cowed lad of Hilton." His history, however, seems to be -rather mixed, and to partake of the nature of the genuine ghost as well -as that of a brownie. This brownie was seldom seen, but often heard -engaged in playing pranks in the great hall, or in the kitchen after the -servants had retired for the night. If they left the kitchen orderly and -clean, the brownie, angered at having his work taken out of his hands, -would throw all the crockery and kitchen utensils about the room, so -that when the servants appeared in the morning a picture of confusion -met their eyes. Of course, as a rule, they found it worked best not to -attempt to leave things tidy, and then the brownie would exert himself -through the night, and all would be straight and clean for the maids -when they rose.</p> - -<p>The servants, however, engaged by the last Baron thought his pranks -rather wearisome, and determined to attempt his banishment by the usual -means employed in such cases—that is, by leaving for his express use -some article of clothing, or some toothsome delicacy to tempt his -palate. They resorted to a green cloak and hood as the best means of -driving him away. However, the brownie knew what they were after, and -many a time during the making of the cloak and hood could be heard -singing in the dead of night—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Wae’s me, wae’s me!<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The acorn is not yet<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Grown upon the tree,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That’s to grow the wood,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_72">{72}</a></span><br /></span> -<span class="i1">That’s to make the cradle,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That’s to rock the bairn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That’s to grow the man,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That’s to lay me."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The green cloak and hood were finished at length; the servants laid them -down before the fire in the great kitchen, and watched at a prudent -distance. At midnight the "cau’d lad" glided in, surveyed the garments, -put them on, frisked about, and when the cock crew disappeared, saying—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Here’s a cloak and there’s a hood:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The Cau’d Lad of Hilton will do no more good."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">And so disappeared for ever.</p> - -<p>The appearance of this brownie seems to have been confused with another -ghost.</p> - -<p>The apparition of a boy who was killed by one of the Barons often used -to be seen—sometimes, it is said, with his head under his arm.</p> - -<p>A Baron of Hilton, many years ago, ordered his horse to be got ready. He -was a passionate man, and a fearsome one to cross. The stable-boy -foolishly fell asleep. For awhile the lord waited for his horse, and -then, in a lively temper, went off to the stable and found the sleeping -boy. He struck the boy with a hay-fork and killed him there and then. -Horrified at what he had done, he covered the body with straw till -night, and then threw it into a pond at the south side of the park, -where, many years afterwards, the skeleton of a boy was discovered. So -runs the legend.</p> - -<p>It is interesting to note that a boy named Roger Skelton was killed by -Robert Hilton, a brother of the then Baron, in July, 1609.<a id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<p>There was a haunted room in the castle called the "cau’d lad’s room," -which was never used. Here, it is said, the spirit of the murdered boy -made its residence.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_73">{73}</a></span> For many years there has been no appearance of the -ghost, though there are persons who affirm that, if they have not -actually seen it, they have heard it about the castle.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Lambton Worm.</i></p> - -<p>In Plantagenet days the Lord of Lambton had a godless son, who -desecrated the Sabbath by fishing in the Wear, and while so doing he -hooked a strange worm with nine breathing-holes on either side of its -throat. This queer find he threw into a well near by, since known as -"the Worm Well," and here the worm grew until it was too large for the -well. It then emerged, and betook itself by day to the river, where it -lay coiled round a rock in the middle of the stream, and by night to a -neighbouring hill, round whose base it would twine itself. Meanwhile it -continued to grow so fast that it soon could encircle the hill three -times. This hill, which is on the north side of the Wear, and about a -mile and a half from old Lambton Hall, is oval in shape and still called -the Worm Hill. In the meantime the heir of Lambton had turned over a new -leaf, and departed as a Crusader to the Holy Land. The worm still grew, -and came daily ravaging for food. The milk of nine cows hardly sufficed -it for a meal, and if this were not forthcoming it slayed both man and -beast. Many knights tried their prowess against the worm, but with no -avail, for no sooner was the worm cut in two than the pieces grew -together again. The poor Lord of Lambton was in sore trouble when, after -seven long years, the heir of Lambton returned home, a much sadder and -wiser man. Seeing the result of his former evil practices, he determined -to kill the enormous beast. Several attempts he made without success, -because the parts would come together whenever he cut it in two. At last -he consulted a witch of the neighbourhood, and she told him if he came -to the fight clothed in armour studded with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_74">{74}</a></span> razors, and stood in the -swift stream, he would conquer; but that he, like Jephthah, must kill -the first living creature that met him after the victory. So to meet -this latter difficulty he told his old father to listen, and when he -gained the victory he would blow three notes upon his bugle, then his -father was to loosen his favourite greyhound, which would come to the -bugle’s call.</p> - -<p>Having made all preparations, the heir started on his mission. Standing -in midstream, he waited the onset of the worm. It came, and seeing its -enemy, wound itself about him; but as it tightened its hold, the razors -cut it into many pieces, which, falling into the water, were swept away -by the current, and so were unable to grow together again. Thus the -victory was won, and the bugle sounded; but the old lord, overjoyed at -the thought of his son’s victory, forgot to let loose the hound, and ran -himself to meet the conqueror. Here now arose a difficulty; the son -would not be a parricide. He went again to the witch, and she told him -that the only alternative was the doom that none of his family should -die a peaceful death, to the seventh, or some say the ninth, generation. -Tradition sayeth that this alternative was accepted, and that no head of -the family died on his bed for several centuries after.</p> - -<p>There are two stone figures of some antiquity preserved at Lambton -Castle. One of these is apparently an effigy of our hero in the middle -of the fray, only the worm has ears, legs, and a pair of wings. The -other figure is a female one, and marked by no very characteristic -features.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Sockburn Worm.</i></p> - -<p>The legend of the Sockburn worm is very similar to that of the Pollard -boar. It is recorded in an old manuscript that Sir John Conyers, knight, -slew a monstrous and poisonous wyvern, or worm, which had devoured many -people in fight, for the scent of the poison was so strong no person -could stand it. But before making this enterprise,</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_013" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_074fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_074fp.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Lambton Castle in 1835.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_75">{75}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">having but one son, he went to the church of Sockburn in complete -armour, and offered up his only son to the Holy Ghost. The place where -this great serpent lay was called Graystane. The gray stone is still -pointed out in a field near the church. For more than six hundred years -the manor of Sockburn was held by the singular service of presenting a -falchion to the Bishop of Durham on his first entering the diocese, and -it was the duty of the Lord of the Manor of Sockburn, or his -representative, to meet His Grace at the middle of Sockburn Ford, or on -Croft Bridge, which spans the River Tees, and after hailing him Count -Palatine and Earl of Sadberge, to present him with a falchion, saying: -"My Lord Bishop, I here present you with the falchion wherewith the -champion Conyers slew the worm, dragon, or fiery flying serpent which -destroyed man, woman, and child, in memory of which the King then -reigning gave him the manor of Sockburn, to hold by this tenure, that -upon the first entrance of every Bishop into the county this falchion -should be presented." The Bishop, after receiving the weapon in his -hand, promptly and politely returned it, and at the same time wished the -Lord of Sockburn health and a long enjoyment of the manor.</p> - -<p>This ceremony was last performed in April, 1826, when the steward of Sir -Edward Blackett, the Lord of Sockburn Manor, met, on Croft Bridge, Dr. -Van Mildert, the last Prince-Bishop of Durham. The tenure is mentioned -in the inquisition post-mortem held on the death of Sir John Conyers in -the year 1396. The falchion was formerly kept at the manor-house of -Sockburn: the blade is broad, and 2 feet 5 inches long, and on the -pommel of the weapon, which is of bronze, are two shields; on one side -are the three lions of England, as borne by the Plantagenet monarchs -from John to Edward III., and the eagle displayed on the other side is -said to belong to Morcar, the Saxon Earl of Northumberland. This relic -was also represented on one of the stained-glass windows<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_76">{76}</a></span> of Sockburn -Church. On a marble monument, placed to the memory of an old member of -the Conyers family, the serpent and falchion were sculptured.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Pickled Parson.</i></p> - -<p>The present rectory house at Sedgefield, erected by the Rev. George, -Viscount Barrington, was preceded by a castellated edifice, which, after -serving the purpose of a rectory house for some years, was burnt down in -1792. During a lengthened period previous to the destruction of the old -house the inhabitants of Sedgefield appear to have been greatly -disturbed by the visits of an apparition known as the "Pickled Parson," -which, it was confidently declared, wandered in the neighbourhood of the -rector’s hall, "making night hideous." Whose wandering shade the ghost -was supposed to have been is explained as follows: A rector’s wife had -the ill-luck to lose her husband about a week before the farmer’s tithes -fell due. Prompted by avarice, she cunningly concealed his death by -salting the body of her departed spouse, and retaining it in a private -room. Her scheme succeeded, she received the emoluments of the living, -and the next day made the decease of the rector public.</p> - -<p class="nindd"><i>The Picktree Brag.</i></p> - -<p>Picktree, near Chester-le-Street, is famous for two reasons—first, -because it was the home of the heroine of the popular song, "Ailsie -Marley," and, secondly, because it was the haunt of one of those -mischievous goblins known as the Picktree Brag. Sir Cuthbert Sharp gives -an account of the apparition, as told by an old woman of respectable -appearance, of about ninety years of age, living near the spot, probably -at Pelton. The old woman said: "I never saw the Brag distinctly, but I -frequently heard it. It some<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_77">{77}</a></span>times appeared like a calf with a white -handkerchief about its neck, and a bushy tail. It came also like a -galloway, but more often like a coach-horse, and went trotting along the -lonnin, afore folks, settin’ up a great nicker and a whinney every now -and then; and it came frequently like a dickass, and it always stopped -at the pond at the four lonnin ends, and nickered and whinnied. My -brother saw it like four men holding up a white sheet. I saw then sure -that some near relation was going to die, which was true. My husband -once saw it in the image of a naked man without a head. I knew a man of -the name of Bewick that was so frightened that he hanged himself for -fear on’t. Whenever the midwife was sent for it always came up with her -in the shape of a galloway. Dr. Harrison wouldn’t believe in it, but he -met it one night as he was going home, and it ’maist killed him; but he -never would tell what happened, and didn’t like to talk about it, and -whenever the Brag was mentioned he sat tremblin’ and shakin’ by the -fireside. My husband had a white suit of clothes, and the first time he -ever put them on he met the Brag, and never had them on afterwards but -he met with some misfortune; and once when he met the Brag, and he had -his white suit on (being a bold man), and having been at a christening, -he was determined to get on the Brag’s back, but when he came to the -four lonnin ends the Brag joggled him so sore that he could hardly keep -his seat, and at last it threw him off into the middle of the pond, and -then ran away, setting up a great nicker and laugh, just for all the -world like a Christian. But this I know to be true of my own knowledge, -that when my father was dying the Brag was heard coming up the lonnin -like a coach and six, and it stood before the house, and the room -shaked, and it gave a terrible yell when my father died, and then it -went chatterin’ and gallopin’ down the lonnin as if yeben and yerth was -comin’ together."</p> - -<p>These northern ghosts or goblins have been very<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_78">{78}</a></span> well described in the -following verse attributed to Ben Jonson:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Sometimes I meete them like a man,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Sometimes an ox, sometimes a hound,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And to a horse I turn me can,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">To trip and trot about them round.<br /></span> -<span class="i5">But if to ride<br /></span> -<span class="i5">My backe they stride,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">More swift than wind away I go;<br /></span> -<span class="i5">O’er hedge and lands,<br /></span> -<span class="i5">Through pools and ponds,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">I whirrey laughing, ho, ho, ho!"<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_79">{79}</a></span></div></div> -</div> - -<h2><a id="NAME-PLACES_IN_THE_DURHAM_DALES"></a>NAME-PLACES IN THE DURHAM DALES<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By William Morley Egglestone</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">W</span>HEN Julius Cæsar conquered Britain, he found the island peopled by -Celts—a branch of the great family of nations called the Aryan, or -Indo-European, which spread over the world from Central Asia. The -Western branches, which rolled in successive waves over Europe, included -the Celts, who, according to the Greek traveller Pytheas, were in the -fourth century before the Christian era quite at home in Britain, for he -there saw growing in the fields corn which the farmers took in sheaves -to the barns, in which were threshing-floors.</p> - -<p>In Weardale, situated in the western and mountainous part of the county -of Durham, and surrounded by brown and heath-clad fells, the ancient -Briton lived in the limestone caves, and hunted in the oaken forests. In -the Wear Valley, near Hamsterley, and about seven miles east of -Stanhope, there is a remarkable relic of the ancient Britons. This -ancient fortification—like many other works constructed by the Britons -of old, such as the Dene Holes of Essex and the Cliff Castles—has its -name, and is called The Castles. The treasure of Heatheryburn Cave, at -Stanhope, consisted of bone knives and pins, boar tusks, bronze and jet -ornaments, spearheads and bronze celts, with prehistoric human skulls, -showing considerable activity of the natives who manufactured and formed -the various rude implements. Apart from these landmarks, there have come -down to us in names of places the Celtic<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_80">{80}</a></span> roots the <i>ray</i> and the <i>tay</i>, -which we find in Lang Tay, the name of a small but long tributary stream -of water in Burnhope; and in Reahope, a tributary hope to Stanhope, and -which empties its waters into Stanhope Burn, a tributary of the River -Wear.</p> - -<p>The Roman power seems to have been extended to Weardale, for the two -Roman altars found at Bolihope and Eastgate, and the denarii found at -Westgate, prove that this lead-mining dale was well known to those -ruling and wall-building people.</p> - -<p>Soon after the Romans left, the Anglo-Saxons—including the Jutes, the -Saxons, and the English—established themselves along the eastern coast -of Britain, and these tribes of the Teutonic family took a firm grasp of -the land, and planted the roots of the English nation.</p> - -<p>Though little more in the early Saxon period than a dense forest, in -which wild animals and ancient Britons found shelter, Weardale -ultimately became an Anglo-Saxon district, influenced by the blending of -the Scandinavian element in dialect and names of places, owing to its -proximity to the Danelagh on the south, and the Norwegian settlement in -Cumberland on the west. The whole of the Palatinate appears to have -remained Saxon through the Danish rule except the northern banks of the -Tees. We know little of Weardale at this period. Situated amidst -mountains, and lying next the Strathclyde, it was probably as much -Celtic as Saxon; but the division of counties, however, was made in 953 -by the Saxon Edred, or Eadred, and the Weardale people would know their -county, for, on the bleak and heather-clad fell of Burnhope, the limits -of the Palatinate is marked by a pile of stones, called "eade -stones"—evidently King Eadred’s stones—the boundary established by -that Saxon monarch. Weardale and Teesdale, however, under the power of -the Normans, were destined to be turned into desolate wastes; yet, as we -shall see, the Saxon names of places survived the desolation of fire and -sword.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_81">{81}</a></span></p> - -<p>If we examine the names of places in the Bishopric of Durham a century -or so after the Danish rule had ceased and the Norman rule had been -established, we shall find a large percentage of Saxon suffixes. In the -Boldon Buke, <small>A.D.</small> 1183, there are some 151 names of manors, wards, -vills, etc., in which, with a few other names in charters of about the -same period, we have 45 endings, or suffixes, in 175 names of places. -The Anglo-Saxon test-word, <i>ton</i>, figures in no less than 34 of these -principal names of places: as Darlington, a settlement of the Deorlings; -Stockton, the stockaded town; Haughton, the haugh town; Morton, the moor -town; Norton, the north town; Essington, the home or settlement of the -Essings, as the Herrings gave a name to Herrington. Of the other Saxon -suffices we have: <i>ley</i> 25, <i>burn</i> 14, <i>don</i> 8, <i>worth</i> 6, <i>ford</i> and -<i>ham</i> 5 each; and the Celtic <i>hope</i>, common in the Anglo-Saxon North, -occurs 8 times. Thus, 8 endings take up 105 of the names of places in -Boldon Buke, the remaining 70 names having 37 endings. The Danish -test-words, <i>by</i> and <i>thorpe</i>, only occur once each—Killerby and Thorp. -These names do not show that the Vikings made permanent settlements -north of the Tees. In Teesdale we find in Domesday Book, <small>A.D.</small> 1086, -Lontune, Mickleton, Lertinton, and Codrestune, having the Saxon ending -<i>tun</i> or <i>ton</i>; but though the names of these places were English, the -places themselves were, or had been, belonging to a Dane, for they were -then in the hands of Bodin, and had formerly been Torfin’s—a person -named from the Scandinavian god Thunder, or Thor. Hundredestoft and -Rochebi have the Danish <i>toft</i> and <i>by</i>, and, like many other names, -such as Thorsgill and Balders Dale, point to the influence and power of -the Scandinavians and their heathen worship in the neighbouring dale of -the Tees.</p> - -<p>In the five northern counties, Worsaae returns Danish-Norwegian -place-names in the following order: Westmorland 158, Cumberland 142, -Durham 23, Northumberland 22, and Yorkshire in its three Ridings 405.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_82">{82}</a></span> -The ending <i>by</i> occurs 167 times in Yorkshire, and <i>thorpe</i> 95 times; -whilst 7 of each are ascribed to Durham, and but 1 of the latter only to -Northumberland. Yorkshire, however, on a closer inquiry, shows over 250 -names of places containing the element <i>by</i>, and over 160 of that of -<i>thorpe</i>, the former predominating in the North and West, and the latter -in the East and West Ridings. Of the 83 names ending in the Norwegian -test-word <i>thwaite</i>, as mentioned by Worsaae, 80 occur in the northern -district, Yorkshire 9, Lancashire 14, Westmorland 14, and in Norwegian -Cumberland 43, whilst there are no <i>thwaites</i> in Durham or -Northumberland. The evidence adduced from names of places thus goes to -prove that the Angles of Durham and Northumberland, though under the -yoke of the Danes during the ascendancy of the Scandinavian power, have, -from their first settlement, continued on their adopted soil through all -the vicissitudes incident to the descents of the Britons from the -western mountains, the inroads of the Picts and Scots, the ravages of -the Vikings, and the subduing marches of the powerful William of -Normandy.</p> - -<p>Northumbria, as of old, may be divided into two provinces in respect to -its place-names—Deira, the district of the Danes, and Bernicia, the -district of the Angles, the central boundary-line being the River Tees. -The Norse <i>beck</i> and Anglo-Saxon <i>burn</i> distinctively mark this line -between these districts in the upper reaches of the valleys of the Wear -and Tees. The mountain-range from Burnhope Seat, at the western confines -of Durham, eastward to Paw Law Pike, forms the south division between -the parishes of Stanhope in Weardale and Middleton in Teesdale. The -principal tributaries of the Tees, on the south of this ridge, are -<i>becks</i>, whilst those on the Wear side are <i>burns</i>. In Weardale, at the -north-western extremity, Scraith <i>Burn</i> and Langtay <i>Burn</i> contribute to -Burnhope <i>Burn</i>. On the Tees side, rising within half a mile or so of -the above burns, Ashgill <i>Beck</i> contributes its<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_83">{83}</a></span> waters to Harewood -<i>Beck</i>. Farther eastward we have Harthope <i>Burn</i> on the Weardale side, -and Harthope <i>Beck</i>, which runs into Langdon <i>Beck</i>, on the Teesdale -side, both streams rising on Harthope Fell, and within a few yards of -each other.</p> - -<p>Continuing eastward, we find several <i>becks</i> on the southern border of -the county of Durham. In 1672 a Teesdale stream was named Raygill Burn, -having the Celtic <i>ray</i>, the Norse <i>gill</i>, and the Saxon <i>burn</i>. In the -adjoining parish of Wolsingham, in the Wear valley, nearly all the -tributaries are named <i>becks</i> in the Ordnance map, but these are, with -one or two exceptions, originally all <i>burns</i>. In an old document of -Queen Elizabeth’s time we find in this parish, Wascrow <i>Burn</i>, -Westerharehope <i>Burn</i>, Hadderly Clough <i>Burn</i>, Houselop <i>Burn</i>, Bradley -<i>Burn</i>, Collier <i>Beck</i> and Ells <i>Beck</i>. There do not appear to be more -than two <i>becks</i> in this parish, Ells Beck and Holbeck, the latter a -small runner near Holbeck House, the home of the Craggs family, one of -whom was the Right Hon. James Craggs, Secretary of State.</p> - -<p>In the Wolsingham names of streams that of Wascrow is generally now -called Waskerley; its real name, however, appears to be Westcrau, from -<i>crau</i>, a crag or rock, and <i>west</i>; or its adjectival component might be -<i>wæs</i>, water. Houselop is Ouselhope, the hope of the <i>Ousel</i> or <i>Ouse</i>, -Welsh <i>wysg</i>, Erse <i>uisge</i>, water. Ouse is a common river name.</p> - -<p>Having so many Anglo-Saxon names of places in the eastern part of the -Bishopric of Durham, it is natural to suppose that the settled families -of the Angles would send offshoots along the banks of the Wear, up into -the dale where the river had its source. Wolsingham—the Saxon -metropolis of Weardale, for its ancient manor included the whole of the -Wear valley westward—is the <i>ham</i> or home of the sons or descendants of -a family of Franks, represented in Kemble’s English settlement names in -Wælsingas, and in the German Walasingas, a family who probably<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_84">{84}</a></span> settled -in the South of England and sent their sons to the North, for Durham, -according to Taylor, contained no original Anglo-Saxon settlements.</p> - -<p>East of Wolsingham but a few miles is Witton, the <i>ton</i>, or town of -witness, Anglo-Saxon <i>witena-gemot</i>. North of Weardale lie Hunstanworth -and Edmundbyres, so the dale of the Wear is surrounded by towns having -the Anglo-Saxon suffixes, <i>ton</i>, <i>ham</i>, and <i>worth</i>, except the Danish -<i>byre</i> of St. Edmund.</p> - -<p>Along the banks of the Wear, three miles west of Wolsingham, is situated -the village of Frosterley. Here early settlers appear to have had an -abode on the banks of the river. The present name of the village is -evidently derived from the forest or foresters of the Bishops of Durham, -who resided here to manage the great forest westward, but the -Scandinavian personal name, Frosti, is worthy of consideration. There -appears, however, to have been a far earlier settlement here. A very -small enclosure near the river-side is named Bottlingham, but not a -vestige of a settlement remains, and the name of the small plot of -ground is all that is now left. Bolihope, a tributary valley to the -Wear, and which empties its burn into the river a hundred yards or two -below the place under consideration, was called, in Bishop Bec’s time, -Bothelinghopp. In these two names we have the <i>hope</i> and the <i>ham</i> of -some Anglo-Saxon settlers, named Pottel, which by the law of interchange -might become Bottel. Bodvulf, who died in 655, was canonized, having -founded the monastery of Ikano. This saint’s relics were dispersed, -hence several churches are dedicated to St. Botolph, and Bottlebridge is -St. Botolph’s bridge. The old chapel at Frosterley was, according to -tradition, dedicated to St. Botolph, and close to the chapel site there -is Bot’s Well, a name which would appear to confirm the local tradition -in respect to the dedication.</p> - -<p>Stanhope, too, with its Anglo-Saxon initial syllable <i>stan</i>, a stone, -and Celtic <i>hope</i>, had an older settlement in all<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_85">{85}</a></span> probability than the -present town, which takes its name from the adjoining Hope, which is -full of rocks or stones. At the west end of Stanhope town there is a -small stream called Allerton Burn, which gathers its waters near -Allerton Riggs, lying north-west of Stanhope. The stream joins the Hope -Burn, near Stanhope Hall, but where is Allerton? which is, or was, the -<i>ton</i> or town beside the allers or alders, or more probably the enclosed -place of some Saxon named Alder or Ealder, from Anglo-Saxon <i>ald</i>, old, -and <i>hari</i>, warrior. The site of this place was most likely near -Allerton Bridge at Stanhope Hall, and this old hall residence—the seat -of the Fetherston-halghs, from the days of King Stephen—probably -represents the spot which we are in search of; it occupies a tongue of -land between the confluence of the Allerton and Stanhope Burns.</p> - -<p>Seven hundred years ago, persons bearing the Saxon names of Osbert, -Ethelred, Meldred, Goda, Aldred, Collan, and others, held lands at -Stanhope, and did service under the Bishops of Durham.</p> - -<p>Considering the close proximity of the principal Danish settlement in -England, that of Yorkshire, it would not be surprising if an inquiry -into local names of places revealed the fact that the followers of -Odin’s prophetic raven had left a footprint of some value in the Durham -dales. The most remarkable, if not unique, footprint of the adventurous -Northmen is preserved in the word <i>thing</i>, pronounced <i>ting</i>, which in -names of parishes and places points out the localities where the -Vikings, in their days of rule, held their outdoor national assemblies, -and promulgated their national laws.</p> - -<p>When the daring Northmen touched the shores of England, subdued in the -year 867 Northumbria, and set up Inguar, the first Danish King, as -ruler, they brought with them, and implanted, their traditions and -customs.</p> - -<p>In Weardale there is a Thimbleby Hill, on the south side of the Wear, -opposite Stanhope, and if the Danes<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_86">{86}</a></span> were in this dale for the purpose -of assembling a <i>thing</i> or council, this hill is the one above all -others which they would have chosen. It has on the top a considerable -flat, and it overlooks Stanhope Town on the north, commands a most -excellent view down the valley eastward, and up the valley westward, -whilst to the south lies a rising heath-covered ridge. The position of -the hill would at once recommend itself to the Danes, who always took -care to have their national courts held in places which would be free -from surprise; and it is possible that Shield Ash represents the -shealings of ash bows, erected for the accommodation of those attending -the court. Stanhope is in Darlington <i>Wapentake</i>, which word is Danish, -and each wapentake had its court or <i>thing</i>. Presuming that the Danes -held a council at Stanhope, they do not appear to have established -themselves to any extent; but, as we find the Danish <i>toft</i>, as in Toft -Well, and a place in Bolihope, named in Hatfield’s Survey Turpenstanes, -the boundary stones of <i>Thorfinn</i>, a Danish personal name, and that in -<small>A.D.</small> 1183 persons holding the Scandinavian names of Russell, Thore, -Arkil, and a son of Turkill, held lands at Stanhope, it would not be a -matter of surprise if a Danish council did take place in Weardale, which -is situated so close to the Danish district, and which was under the -rule of the first Danish King in England.</p> - -<p>One of the most striking instances of the Norwegian element in Weardale, -is what was fifty or sixty years ago the "national" winter sport of the -dale. This was <i>skeeing</i>, the national sport of Norway. Within the -memory of a few of the oldest inhabitants no snowy winter passed in -Weardale without this sport being practised to its full extent.</p> - -<p>In the mountainous district of Weardale, one of the most important North -of England rivers is cradled, and into this isolated highland dale the -Celtic name of the Durham river has penetrated. Almost all the English -rivers have retained the names given to them by the Celts,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_87">{87}</a></span> and <i>avon</i>, -<i>dur</i>, <i>esk</i>, <i>rhe</i>, and <i>don</i>, are Celtic roots repeated, over and over -again, in names of streams, not only in England, but on the Continent. -In the name Nent Water, in Cumberland, we have the simple name "water," -and the Cymric <i>nant</i>, a hollow or valley formed by water—a common name -in Wales. Writers mention Nant Lle as+ the vale of Lle; Nant Gwyrfai, -the vale of fresh water; Nant Frangon, the beavers’ hollow or ravine; -and Pennant, the head of the valley. The little village Nenthead, on the -western slope of Killhope, is the head of the valley. From the root -<i>dwr</i>, water, and the frequently occurring Celtic <i>gwent</i>, an open -region, comes Derwent, the name of the stream on the north of Weardale, -and of various other rivers in England. The local pronunciation, -however, in the district of Derwent is <i>Darwen</i>, which suggests <i>dwr</i> -and <i>gwen</i>, the clear water.</p> - -<p>The River Wear is formed by the joint streams of Killhope and Burnhope -Burns, which meet at Wearhead village. Its course through the dale is -rapid, receiving many tributaries from the hopes. On reaching Auckland -it takes a north-easterly course. "And now," says Camden, "the river, as -though it proposed to make an island, compasseth almost on every side -the chief city of this province standing on an hill, whence the Saxons -gave it the name <i>Dunholm</i>. For as you may gather out of Bede, they call -an hill <i>dun</i>, and a river island <i>holme</i>." The Wear, which enters the -sea at Sunderland, was called <i>Vedra</i> by Ptolemy, <i>Wirus</i> by Bede, and -in Bishop Pudsey’s time (1153-94) the name was written <i>Were</i>, the same -as we find in Hatfield, 1380, Holinshed 1577, and Camden 1604. The -latter form is the proper modern spelling up to about the last century, -when <i>Were</i> became <i>Wear</i>, the present form of the name of St. -Cuthbert’s stream. Ferguson, on the authority of Pott, gives the -Sanscrit <i>ud</i>, <i>udon</i>, water, from which comes the German <i>wasser</i>, -English <i>water</i>, as the root of Ptolemy’s <i>Vedra</i>.<a id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_88">{88}</a></span><i>Wirus</i> suggests -the Celtic <i>gwyrhe</i>, rapid water. Perhaps <i>gwy</i> or <i>wy</i>, water, and -<i>garw</i> or <i>arw</i>, rough, form the roots. The former root enters into the -names of several rivers, as the Wye, Edwy, Elwy, and others. In all the -forms of spelling the river-name of Durham the letter "r" is -conspicuous. It is the principal one in <i>arw</i>, which enters into the -names of several streams—the Ayr, Are, Aire, Arre, being variations of -this widely diffused root. The Welsh <i>rhe</i>, rapid, with <i>gwy</i>, may show -equal claim to notice as first mentioned—namely, <i>gwyrhe</i>. Omitting the -initial <i>g</i> in the first, and the middle letter in the second, root, we -have <i>wyre</i>.</p> - -<p>A <i>hope</i> is a small opening running up to the mountain ridges as a -tributary to a main stream. From the burns again branch out <i>grains</i>, -which, fed by springs, issue from <i>brocs</i>. The <i>cleugh</i>, <i>gill</i>, and -<i>sike</i>, contribute their waters generally to the burns, whilst a <i>well</i> -may come from a <i>dene</i>, and empty into the main stream. The western -dales of Durham are pre-eminently dales of <i>hopes</i>. This word is the -Celtic <i>hwpp</i>, a slope or hollow between hills—a little dale in which a -stream of water gathers. These openings at the sides of the dale may -very properly be termed places of refuge, places of shelter for animals, -such as the deer, and in these days we find sheep located in the various -<i>hopes</i>, where they have their <i>heft</i>—a locality to which they become -attached; Anglo-Saxon <i>hæft</i>, from the having a holding or place. The -Norse <i>hop</i> is a place of shelter or refuge. An inquiry into the -Bishop’s possessions of game in Weardale, nearly three hundred years -ago, particularly mentioned forests, parks, <i>hopes</i> and pastures. The -place-name <i>hope</i> is common throughout the hilly parts of Durham, -Northumberland, Yorkshire, and Derbyshire. In the neighbouring parish of -Wolsingham there are Harehope, Ouselhope, and Thornhope; in Allendale -Swinhope, Sinderhope, Ellershope, and Mohope; the Boldon Buke records in -the Bishopric, Ayleshope, Rokehope, Cazhope, Refhope, Horsleyhope, -Histeshope, Baldinge<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_89">{89}</a></span>hope, Burnhop, and Roueleiehope; and in Teesdale we -have Egleshope and Hudeshope. In Weardale we have the Hope, sometimes -called Stanhope Hope, probably to distinguish it from the town of -Stanhope.</p> - -<p>In Weardale there are sixteen <i>hopes</i>, distinguished in name by some -characteristic feature, as represented in their respective initial -components.</p> - -<p>Burnhope and Killhope, with Wellhope, are the three vales which -contribute their streams to form the Wear at Wearhead. The initial -components <i>burn</i>, <i>kil</i> and <i>wel</i>, are all Anglo-Saxon, meaning water, -and have been given according to the custom of the early settlers. From -the head of the River Wear, the hopes, striking into the hills -encircling the head of the dale, are those out of which come water. -<i>Burn</i>hope is the hope of the burn, Anglo-Saxon <i>burne</i>, a stream; -<i>Kill</i>hope is from Anglo-Saxon <i>keld</i>, a fountain; we have also -Icelandic <i>keld</i>, Danish <i>kilde</i>, Norse <i>kill</i>, a fountain or brook; -<i>Well</i>hope from Anglo-Saxon <i>wyl</i>, <i>wel</i>, a well or fountain—hence they -are all the hopes of water. <i>Kil</i> is the Scotch and Irish word denoting -a church, and if the situation had been favourable, and had there been -any evidence of a St. Godric having been located here, as at Wolsingham, -we might have had the hope of the <i>kil</i>, kirk, or church, but in Camden -we find <i>Kelhop</i> and <i>Welhop</i>. Leland, at an earlier date, gives -<i>Kelhope</i> and <i>Welhop</i>, and Holinshed <i>Kellop</i>. Brocket says <i>keld</i> is a -word used in Yorkshire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, for a well or -spring. Taylor gives <i>kell</i> and <i>well</i> as synonymous terms for a place -from whence water flows. We read in Simeon of Durham of the Scots, in -<small>A.D.</small> 1070, having marched through Cumberland and devastated Teesdale and -the parts bordering; then they came to the place called in English, -Hundredeskelde—that is, "the hundred springs." Barnard Castle -water-supply comes from a place called Spring Keld.</p> - -<p>One of the Bishopric knights at the Battle of Lewis was Sir Henry -Merley, of Herkeld, in Witton; and Besan<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_90">{90}</a></span>skeldes is a Boldon Buke -place-name. We thus have, at the western confines of the county of -Durham, the hopes of water, and which pour forth their streams to form -the main river of the historic county of Durham.</p> - -<p>Ireshope, Middlehope, and Westernhope, derive their initial components -from their position. <i>Middle</i>hope occupies a central position in the -forest. The first tributary burn to the Wear after its formation is, of -course, the most western one, <i>Ire</i>shope, from Erse <i>iar</i>, the west. -Snowhope, sheltered under the southern hills, retains patches of its -winter covering long enough, no doubt, to have warranted its -name—<i>Snawhope</i>, as it was formerly written, Anglo-Saxon <i>snaw</i>, Danish -<i>snee</i>, German <i>schnee</i>, Belgic <i>sneeuw</i>—a name given to many mountains -subject to being covered in winter, as Snafell in Iceland, Sneekoppe in -Bohemia, Sneeuw Bergen at the Cape of Good Hope, Snee Hatten in Norway, -Snafell in the Isle of Man, and Snowdon in Wales. In respect to -Ireshope, there is the Anglo-Saxon <i>yrfe</i>, <i>erfe</i>, <i>irfe</i>, inheritance, -from the root <i>ar</i>; Old English <i>ear</i>, <i>earth</i>, as the <i>Ar</i>yan races -were the tillers of the ground. There is also a root <i>ar</i> applied to -rivers, as the <i>Ayr</i>, <i>Are</i>, and <i>Aire</i>: Welsh <i>araf</i>, gentle; Gaelic -<i>ar</i>, slow; Celtic <i>arw</i>, violent—some of which might apply.</p> - -<p>Stanhope and Rookhope are characteristic names in a district of stone -and rock. In the Boldon Buke and Hatfield’s Survey we have Stanhope, -Rokhop, and in the times of Bishop Beck, Stanehop, and Stanhop. The -first components in these names are from Anglo-Saxon <i>stan</i>, German -<i>stein</i>, Icelandic <i>sten</i>, Danish <i>steen</i>, a stone; and Gaelic <i>roc</i>, a -mass of stone. The district is full of stones, as the many stone fences -which net the whole of the inlands and the higher lands to the moors -testify. From Boltsburn village the Rookhope stream runs over successive -edges of limestone and freestone, and culminates in a grand display by -leaping over several picturesque linns at Eastgate.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_014" style="width: 546px;"> -<a href="images/i_090fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_090fp.jpg" width="546" height="384" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Kepier Hospital.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_91">{91}</a></span></p> - -<p>Two of the place-names, Harthope and Swinhope, carry us back to the wild -beasts of the forest. One was the lodging-ground or resort of the hart -or stag, Anglo-Saxon <i>heort</i>; and the other gets its initial component -from Anglo-Saxon <i>swin</i>, <i>swyn</i>, a swine; Old German <i>suin</i>, traceable -back to the Sanskrit <i>su</i>. The boar tusks found in Heatheryburn Cave, -and the Roman altar at Stanhope Rectory, testify to Weardale being the -abode of boars. The local word <i>aswin</i>, obliquely, Welsh <i>asswyn</i>, does -not apply to this place-name. A far more probable etymology is the -Celtic <i>swyn</i>, holy. Charnock is of opinion that the several rivers -named "swine" or "swin" may be from this root.</p> - -<p>Bolihope, the name of a considerable subvalley on the south of -Frosterley and Stanhope, is interesting, if not so easily explained. The -name is evidently associated with the district of Frosterley, where the -stream from Bolihope enters the Wear. At this village we have as -place-names Bottlingham and Bot’s Well, and the ancient chapel is said -to have been dedicated to St. Botolph. Bishop Beck granted to Walter -Berington twenty-seven acres of land in Bothelinghopp. The initial -component would suggest the Anglo-Saxon <i>botel</i>, <i>botl</i>, <i>botles</i>, an -abode, mansion, or dwelling; also Norse <i>botl</i>, German <i>buttel</i>. Leo, -however, says that very few Anglo-Saxon names of places are united with -this word. Bolton was formerly written Bodeltune. This, however, does -not appear to be the etymon of the name in question, as <i>botel</i> and -<i>ham</i>, both Saxon for a dwelling, would not be found in one name. A -large number of names of places have the Saxon patronymic <i>ing</i>, which -often forms the medial syllable, such as Wolsingham, Darlington, -Easington, Washington, Heighington, and, if the medial syllable of the -name under consideration be the Saxon patronymic, then it is an -Anglo-Saxon place-name—the home of the sons of some Saxon named Bottel. -Bot is a Scandinavian personal name, but we find the Saxon Byttingas and -Potingas, <i>Liber Vitæ</i>, Bota, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_92">{92}</a></span> Frisian Botte. The personal name -Pottel—which by the law of interchange of initial letters might become -Bottel—would explain that the <i>hope</i> and the <i>ham</i> were belonging to -the son of some Saxon settler of this name, as elsewhere mentioned.</p> - -<p>Boltshope is a small offshoot from Rookhope. Bolt, as an iron-door bolt, -is from Anglo-Saxon and Danish <i>bolt</i>, German <i>bolgen</i>, from the root -<i>bole</i>, round as the bole of a tree. The Anglo-Saxon <i>bold</i>, <i>bolt</i>, -originally <i>búld</i>, <i>búlt</i>, means a house or dwelling, an abode; Danish -<i>bolig</i>; and we have mention made in Hatfield of Bold Shell in Rookhope. -Boltsburn is the village of the Rookhope Valley, and is situated at the -foot of Boltshopeburn. At the top of the hope is Bolts Law, which is -probably the place earliest named, and in all probability is from a -personal name. Bold Shield would not be from the Anglo-Saxon <i>bold</i>, an -abode, but is evidently Bold’s shield, the <i>shield</i>, or home, of Bold, -as the eminence might be the <i>law</i> of Bold or Bolt.</p> - -<p><i>Dene</i> is from the Celto-Saxon <i>den</i>, a deep, wooded valley; Anglo-Saxon -<i>den</i>, <i>dene</i>, <i>denn</i>. The best specimen of this kind of valley in the -county of Durham is probably Castle Eden Dene, a wooded, narrow valley -near the sea. Its name is interesting, and contains the ancient and -modern spelling. Its earliest name was evidently Eden, from <i>ea</i> or <i>e</i>, -water, and <i>den</i>, a wooded valley; and this becoming a proper name, a -second <i>den</i> was added—namely, Eden Dene, which gives us -water-dene-dene. We have also in the north Hesleden, Deneholm, and -Hardwick Dene.</p> - -<p><i>Burn</i>, <i>grain</i>, <i>broc</i>, are allied. The first of these may be said to -be as pure Weardale as Saxon. Whilst the Norse <i>beck</i> crowds the banks -of Teesdale, it does not exist in Weardale. <i>Burn</i> spreads from this -dale northward through Durham, Northumberland, and Scotland. <i>Beck</i> is -as foreign to Weardale as the Danish test-word <i>by</i> and the Norwegian -<i>thwaite</i>, though all the three names crowd<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_93">{93}</a></span> around, close to the very -hills on the south and west of the dale of the Wear. Within the bounds -of Stanhope parish the Wear is fed by several tributary burns. These -streams receive or are formed at the head by <i>grains</i>, and the grains -are fed by springs from the <i>brocks</i>. <i>Brock</i> is from Anglo-Saxon -<i>broc</i>, <i>brece</i>, to break forth—the place where the water first breaks -through the earth—hence <i>brook</i>, literally water running through the -earth. A <i>brock</i> is a little hollow a few feet wide, formed by water -breaking through the ground, and washing out a miniature valley. The -moors of Weardale and surrounding district abound with these broken -places, which are mostly known to shepherds and game-shooters. They -exist on the top of the fells, where they are the only natural shelters. -Platey Brock, on Chapel Fell, receives its name from an exposed plate or -shale bed. To show how numerous these places are, I will mention that on -Burnhope Moor there are also Coldberry Brocks, Limestone Brocks, -Highfield Brocks, Wester Langtayhead Brocks, Todsyke Brocks, Lodgegill -Brocks, Scraith Head Brocks, Browngill Brock, Cocklake Brock, -Sally-Grain Brocks, Lang Brock. To the above may be added the -better-known names of Black Brocks, or Moss Brocks, in Burnhope, and -Welhope Brocks.</p> - -<p><i>Grain</i>, Icelandic <i>grein</i>, is a division, a branch, as the grain of a -fork; Danish <i>green</i>, a branch, a bough. Generally the branches at the -head of a burn are distinguished by north and south, and east and west -grains; and sometimes by name, as Sally Grain in Burnhope, and Jopla -Grains in Bolihope. "East Graine under Craggs" is in Bolihope. At -Harthope Head there are the east and west grains, which meet and form -the burn. In addition to the sixteen hopes previously mentioned, from -twelve of which flow the principal tributary burns to the Wear, there -are some thirty secondary streams, named <i>burn</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>burne</i>, a -<i>bourn</i>, stream, brook, river, and which are distinguished by the names -of the hope, or place, from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_94">{94}</a></span> which they flow, or from some other -characteristic feature or condition.</p> - -<p>Sowen Burn, near Stanhope, is a very characteristic specimen, the -adjectival component being the Old English <i>sounen</i>, sound, the noisy -burn, or, rather, the sounding burn.</p> - -<p>Fine Burn, in Bolihope, is so named owing to the stream being a line of -boundary. The words "fine," "confines," "finish," "finis," mark the end, -and the above stream is the boundary between the parishes of Stanhope -and Wolsingham. The Roman camp, <i>ad fines</i> camps, is situated close to -the border-line between England and Scotland.</p> - -<p>In Rookhope Smails Burn implies the small burns—Anglo-Saxon <i>smala</i>, -small—two little runners rendered somewhat historic in the days of -Border broils, as we find in the old ballad of Rookhope Ryde. In the -same district we have Red Burn, and Over Red Burn. <i>Red</i> is from -Anglo-Saxon <i>read</i>, <i>rud</i>; Danish <i>röd</i>, red, the red stream; or the -Celtic <i>rhyd</i>, a ford; whilst <i>over</i> is from the Anglo-Saxon <i>ofer</i>, a -shore, or <i>ofer</i>, over, above or higher—hence High Redburn.</p> - -<p>Yeky Burn is from Anglo-Saxon <i>æc</i>, <i>eac</i>, oak, the stream of the oaks. -There are two Heathery Burns, one associated with the noted cave at -Stanhope. Old spelling hetherie, hetherye, hethery, from heath, -Anglo-Saxon <i>hæth</i>, Scotch heather.</p> - -<p>The name <i>well</i> is given to a large number of tiny streams in Weardale. -Dutch <i>wellen</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>wel</i>, a fountain of water, and in Saxon -names of places, <i>wel</i>, <i>wyl</i>, and <i>well</i> often occur.</p> - -<p>Kelhope and Welhope are literally the hopes out of which water <i>wells</i>. -The source of the latter is named Wellheads. At the head of smaller -wells there are <i>springs</i>, places where water springs out—Anglo-Saxon -<i>springan</i>—hence we have such names as Spring Wells, Whitewell Spring, -White Wells, White Springs.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_95">{95}</a></span></p> - -<p>Ludwell is the people’s well, Anglo-Saxon <i>leod</i>, people. This water -springs out of a cave in the great limestone, where, in olden times, the -Weardale folks might have congregated, for the Saxon prefix shows it to -have been the well of the people, like Ludlaw, the people’s hill, -suggesting the days of village communities, and the days of superstition -when wells were in many cases held sacred. These were generally iron -wells—locally, <i>haliwells</i>. There are many wells known as holywells in -this district, some of which are also termed <i>spa</i>-wells. This term is -from the bath town, Spa, in Belgium, derived from <i>espa</i>.</p> - -<p>Of other wells proper, we might mention Sunderland Well, Hunterley Well, -Huntshield Well, Black Dene Well, Carrbrow Well, Earnwell; Anglo-Saxon -<i>earn</i>, <i>ern</i>, an eagle—the eagle’s well. Several names of places in -England are from the eagle. Toft Well, east of Stanhope, is the well in -the toft or field, and the initial in Totley Well is probably from toft. -Bot’s Well, at Frosterley, is supposed to be that of St. Botolph, to -which saint, the old chapel, close by the well, was dedicated. Poppet -Well is a curious name, and is probably "coppet," from <i>cop</i>, a head. -The adjectival component in Duntert Well is evidently the same as in -Dunter Linn, at Eastgate. Boutes Well is Bolts Well, as in Boltsburn. -Berry Well is apparently the well of the mountain, Anglo-Saxon <i>beorg</i>, -<i>beorh</i>, a hill, a mountain. At Newhouse there is a Bank Spring, and at -Westgate a Spring Bank, indicating at each place a bank and a spring of -water. Cuthbert’s Spring, near Westgate, is in honour of the patron -saint of Durham, and it is no wonder that we find the name of St. -Cuthbert associated with names of places. On Harthope Moor, and close to -the road, is an excellent spring called Jenny’s Meggie, and at -Frosterley a spring is called Meggie.</p> - -<p><i>Cleugh</i>, <i>gill</i>, and <i>sike</i> are associated with water. We have in the -parish of Stanhope, in round numbers, 30 <i>cleughs</i>, 10 <i>gills</i>, and 70 -<i>sikes</i>. <i>Cleugh</i> is from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_96">{96}</a></span> Anglo-Saxon <i>clough</i>, a cleft down the -side of a hill; Danish <i>kloft</i>; Norwegian <i>kliufa</i>, to split—a narrow -ravine more like a cleft in the hill than a water-worn valley. Yearn -Cleugh, written <i>earne</i> in 1666, is the eagle’s haunt, or that of the -falcon, the latter being once reared in Weardale for the purpose of the -Bishop’s hunt.</p> - -<p>In 1666 we find mention of Addercleugh, the adder being frequently found -in Weardale. Whick Cleugh—in 1595 written Weekerclough—is probably -from the Anglo-Saxon <i>wic</i>, a marsh, but more probably from <i>wice</i>, the -mountain ash, or rowan-tree, well known in the dale, and also known as -the wich-elm.</p> - -<p><i>Gill</i> is from the Norse <i>gil</i>, a mountain chasm, a glen or fissure in -the hillside. For this name we are indebted to the Norwegians, who -peopled the neighbouring county of Cumberland. The best-known places of -this class are Aller Gill, Lodge Gill, and Dry Gill, as being associated -with habitations and lead mines. The first is the <i>gill</i> of the alders. -In Burnhope there is Lodge Gill, a well-known name owing to a once -famous lead-mine being there situated. The name very probably originated -from some forest animal lodging there, as we find Lodge Field, -Anglo-Saxon <i>logian</i>, to place, put, lodge—the field where probably -deer were lodged in the forest-hunting days of the princely Bishops of -Durham.</p> - -<p>In Burnhope, a lead-mine in 1666 was called Hesley Gill—the hazel gill. -In Witton Gill we may have a very important place-name, for here may be -the gill of the witness—the spot where the inhabitants met, similar to -the meetings held in primitive times at particular stones. Leo says: "By -the names Wittan-ig, Wittan-mor, Wittan-mær, and Readan-stan, we are -informed of those national and provincial meetings for self-government -which have always characterized our race." Anglo-Saxon <i>witan</i>, to know; -Icelandic <i>vita</i>; German <i>wissen</i>, to know. The <i>Witena gemot</i> Bosworth -explains as "the assembly of the wise, the supreme council of the -nation." Edred the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_97">{97}</a></span> Saxon King held a witan at Ginge, in the parish of -West Hendred, Berks, and there is a Witan Dyke at Worthe in Hants, -whilst in our valley there is the village of Witton-le-Wear. Mirke Gill -in Bolihope is the dark gill from the Anglo-Saxon <i>myrc</i>, Icelandic -<i>myrk</i>, dark. It is curious to notice how the Danish and Saxon <i>cleugh</i>, -the Norwegian <i>gill</i>, and the Anglo-Saxon <i>burn</i>, are intermixed in -Rogerley-Gill-Burn, Willowgreen-Burn-Gill, and Stock-Gill-Cleugh; but -such are many names of places, for if the term <i>burn</i> was not understood -by a Norwegian settler, he would add his own term, <i>gill</i>; if this was -not sufficiently clear to a Saxon, <i>burn</i> would be added to convey his -own meaning of a mountain-stream, and in a similar manner the various -races of mankind have stratified and built one upon another the various -components of place-names which are ethnological and historical -landmarks too invaluable not to be closely investigated.</p> - -<p><i>Sike</i> or <i>syke</i> is a very common local name. It is from Anglo-Saxon -<i>sic</i>, <i>sich</i>, Icelandic <i>sikje</i>, Norse <i>siki</i>. Sullivan says a <i>sike</i> -is the drainage of a marsh, and that all sikes were once marshes. -Natural productions have given names to several sikes, as the marshy -hollows were the homes of trees, grasses, and animals; hence we have -Rowantree Sike, where there is an excellent ironstone mine; Saugh Sike, -two Aller Sikes, Rushy Sike, Bents Sike, Moss Sike, and Birk Sike. Where -we find trees we find birds, so we have Hawk Sike, Hawk Sikes near -Stanhope, and Snipe Sike. Todd Sike is where the fox haunted, and Goat -Sike wants no explanation. Chisholm Sike, Anglo-Saxon <i>ceosel</i>, <i>ceosl</i>, -gravel, sand, the sike by the gravelly or sandy holm. In Teesdale there -is a Whey Sike, in Burnhope a Whoe Sike, and in Ireshope a Hoe Sike. In -Middlehope there is Scar Sike, the sike of the rock. Anglo-Saxon <i>carr</i>, -Danish <i>skær</i>, Swedish <i>skar</i>, a projecting or prominent rock, a -cliff—as Scarborough, Scarthwaite, Scarcliff, and Scarsdale, written in -Doomsday Book, Scarnesdele. At<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_98">{98}</a></span> Middleton on the Tees there is a place -called Skears, and <i>scarr</i>, <i>skarr</i>, <i>skire</i>, are forms found in -place-names. Whetstone Sike is where the whetstone sill is exposed.</p> - -<p>A <i>linn</i> is a deep or still pool, from the Celtic <i>llyn</i>, water, a lake, -flood; Anglo-Saxon <i>hlynna</i>, a brook. In the North of England, however, -a <i>linn</i> is understood to be a cascade or cataract, evidently owing to -the waterfall being a more attractive feature in a river scene than the -linn or pool, which is always found at the bottom of a fall. In Scotland -a <i>lin</i>, <i>lyn</i>, is described as a cataract, and in a secondary sense the -pool below. In Ireland <i>lin</i> is a pool; and the Icelandic form of the -word is <i>lind</i>. The most attractive <i>linns</i> in Weardale are Linnkirk, on -Shittlehope Burn, near Stanhope—a romantic spot where there is a tiny -waterfall and a cave close by in the great limestone; the Dunter Linn -and Holm Linn at Eastgate; and the Linny—a waterfall on the Harthope -Burn, near St. John’s Chapel. The Danish <i>dundre</i> is to make a noise -like thunder, and the Scotch <i>dunder</i> has the same meaning. The Saxon -Donar is the god of thunder, hence Dunter Linn is that which makes a -great noise.</p> - -<p><i>Kern</i> is from the Anglo-Saxon <i>cyrn</i>, <i>cyrin</i>, <i>cerene</i>; Danish -<i>kjerne</i>, a churn; Icelandic <i>kirna</i>; Scottish <i>kirn</i>. The primary -meaning appears to be to turn, the act of turning, allied to quern, the -ancient mills for grinding corn. <i>Kern-holes</i>, found in the bed of -rivers, are holes worn out by the churning motion of water mixed with -sand. On Chapel Fell there is a watery hole called Jackson’s Kern, owing -to one Jackson being accidentally drowned in it whilst coming from -Middleton; but this might be <i>cairn</i>, a heap of stones. In Burnhope -Burn, at Six-dargue, a deep hole in the stream is called Kern Pool.</p> - -<p><i>Pool</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>pol</i>, Welsh <i>pwll</i>, Icelandic <i>pollr</i>. There are in -the Wear and its tributaries a large number of pools which have names. -Holm Pool is the pool by the holm, and Wash Pool very probably was a -place where the good wives washed their linen in the days when<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_99">{99}</a></span> -spinning, weaving, and various other methods of manufacturing household -requisites were in full operation. Winn Pool, from the Anglo-Saxon -<i>winn</i>, <i>gewin</i>, contest, struggle, to win—the pool where the meeting -of the waters cause a fight, and struggle, as it were, to <i>win</i>.</p> - -<p>The <i>eale</i> and <i>ealand</i> are our isle and island, and are the names given -in Weardale to alluvial land on the margins of the main river. In the -river and place-names Gret<i>a</i>, <i>Ea</i>, <i>Ea</i>mont, Batters-<i>ea</i>, -Aldern-<i>ey</i>, Pont-<i>eland</i>, <i>ea</i> or <i>a</i> represents water or a river. -Bishop Egelwin, 1069, "after having, with all his people, passed three -months and some days at <i>Ealande</i>, returned to the church of Durham," -according to the Saxon writers. In the Boldon Buke we find in a charter -of Bishop Flambard—“R. Biscop greteth well all his thanes and drenghs -of <i>Ealand</i>scire and Norhamscire." In Wolsingham parish we find in -Hatfield’s Survey, Papworth-ell, Small-eys, and in the same record -Catherine of the Ele is mentioned. The names of places containing the -Anglo-Saxon root <i>ea</i>, in the parish of Stanhope, are about a dozen.</p> - -<p>In 1380, according to Hatfield, the parson of Stanhope held the Frith, -and a place <i>parcellum del Ele</i>, containing one acre. In 1608, in a list -of lands held by the rector of Stanhope, we find "one close called ‘The -Parson Ele.’" A few hundreds of yards eastward, just below the Butts, we -have Bond Eale, a stretch of land subject to be flooded, and formerly -held by bond tenants, who had to perform services in connection with the -land, such as thatching and carrying the running gear for Stanhope -corn-mill.</p> - -<p>Thomas Morgan, by will dated 1641, left for charitable purposes amongst -other lands: "One parcel of arable ground in ye said Frosterley lying -and being at ye west end of ye same town in a place there called Hudse -Eale, and one acre and a rood of ground lying and being in ye said -Frosterley in a place called ye Mille Eale, and all other my lands and -tenements with ye said appurtenances in Frosterley aforesad—Barnes -Eale—excepted."<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_100">{100}</a></span></p> - -<p>A mile and a half west of Eastgate we have, between Hunterley Well and -Parkhouse Pasture, the interesting Cammock Eale, locally called "Cammo -Keel," for the derivation of which we have the adjectival component from -the Celtic <i>cam</i>, crooked, and the ending <i>og</i>, diminutive, Celtic -<i>ock</i>—hence the little crooked isle.</p> - -<p><i>Holm</i> is akin to ealand. Taylor says: "The suffix in the name Durham is -properly not the Saxon <i>ham</i>, but the Norse <i>holm</i>; and Dunelm—the -signature of the Bishop—reminds us also that the Celtic prefix is -<i>Dun</i>, a hill-fort, and not <i>Dur</i>, water. In the Saxon Chronicle the -name is correctly written Dunholm." <i>Holm</i> is also Anglo-Saxon, and is -described by Bosworth as "a river island, a green plot of ground -environed with water—hence holmes."</p> - -<p>Holmside, in the county of Durham, and Midge Holm, Holmwath, and Yallow -Holm, are names of places by the river in Teesdale.</p> - -<p>By the Wear, at the west end of Rogerley Park, is situated Burry Holm. -In the year 1583 Thomas Blacket, Esq., of Woodcroft, demised to Peter -Maddison, gent., three closes of land being part of Woodcroft estate; -one close was on the west side of the low pasture, and another close of -meadow was called "Buiri Holme." It might be the holm of the burdock -(<i>Arctium Lappa</i>), or the berry holm from Anglo-Saxon <i>berie</i>, <i>berige</i>, -a berry, or the <i>bere</i> holm or place where barley grew, Anglo-Saxon -<i>bere</i>, barley. Again, the spear plume-thistle (<i>Cnicus lanceolatus</i>), -called in Scotland the bur-thrissil, might flourish here, or the -burtree, the common elder (<i>Sambucus nigra</i>).</p> - -<p>The names <i>flask</i>, <i>swang</i>, <i>bog</i>, and <i>wass</i>, indicate wet land, and -are kindred terms to a certain extent. Those accustomed to travel on the -highlands of Weardale will be familiar with lands denominated <i>boggy</i>, -<i>swampy</i>, <i>swangy</i>, <i>marshy</i>. The term <i>wass</i> may be considered -obsolete, and that of <i>flask</i> nearly so.</p> - -<p>In Hatfield’s Survey there were in Bolihope lands called the Wasses and -Seggefeldland. <i>Wass</i> is from the <span class="pagenum"><a id="page_101">{101}</a></span>Anglo-Saxon <i>wæs</i>, water, and <i>segg</i> -from the Anglo-Saxon <i>segg</i>, <i>seeg</i>, a reed or sedge, which commonly -grows on wet land.</p> - -<p>A pasture in Killhope, between Low Moss and the Rush, was some thirty -years ago called the Flask. Langtay Flask is in Burnhope, and a -lead-mine here was known by that name 200 years ago. In the bailiffs’ -roll under Queryndon, we find in Hatfield, lands called <i>fennes</i>, -<i>flasskes</i>, and a place called Atthillswang. In Quesshowe there was le -<i>Flaske</i>. At Framwelgate, Broom cum le <i>Flassh</i>, at Cotam les <i>flaskes</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Bog</i>, Gaelic <i>bog</i>, Irish <i>bogach</i>, marsh, morass, quagmire, needs -little explanation. Riggy Bogs, Boghouse, White Bog, and Bog Hole, are -amongst names of places in the dales.</p> - -<p><i>Den</i>, from the Celto-Saxon, is a deep wooded valley, and has already -been considered under valleys. The most important <i>denes</i> are Easter -Black Dene and Wester Black Dene.</p> - -<p>Hot Hill is no doubt the wooded hill, but Hotts has another derivation, -and appears to be from <i>hut</i>, an abode or sheltered place. Another name, -<i>hurst</i>, pure German, a thick wood, is confined, as far as Weardale is -concerned, to Shield Hurst.</p> - -<p>The termination <i>shaw</i>, a thicket or small wood, is frequently met with -in place-names. The Danish <i>skov</i> is a wood or forest, Icelandic -<i>skogr</i>; the Anglo-Saxon <i>scua</i>, <i>scuwa</i> is a shade, the same as the -Swedish <i>skugga</i>. Anglo-Saxon <i>sceaga</i> seems to mean shaggy wood. In the -Hatfield’s Survey, a place in Bolihope is called Watteshawe—a wet -wooded place. Near Allergill we have Birkshaw, the place shaded by -birch-trees. In Shittlehope there are two places on the expanding -moorlands called Bashaw and Mogshaw. The former was probably the badger -shaw or wood. In the latter we have an important root, the Erse <i>magh</i>, -Welsh <i>maes</i>, a plain. Taylor gives <i>magh</i> as a Gadhelic test word, and -says that it is found in more than a hundred Irish names of places.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_102">{102}</a></span></p> - -<p>The various place-names embracing <i>mea</i>, <i>may</i>, are from the same root, -and probably Migg Clos, held by the parson of Stanhope in 1380, is a -kindred name. A place on the south side of Bolihope is named -Harnshaw—written in 1614 <i>Hornyshawe</i>, and in 1666 <i>Harnshaw</i>—from -Anglo-Saxon <i>hyrne</i>, <i>hirne</i>, an angle or corner, a resemblance to a -horn—hence the <i>hyrne</i> shaw would be the horn-shaped wood. Ramshaw, -particularly known for its well, is evidently the ram wood, Anglo-Saxon -<i>ram</i>, <i>ramm</i>, a ram; but some authorities derive <i>ram</i> from <i>raven</i>. -These etymological conclusions give us a broad birch, a horn-shaped and -a wet wood, a wood on a plain, and a wood frequented by the ram and the -badger.</p> - -<p><i>Wood</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>wudu</i>, <i>wode</i>, woodland, enters into a few local -names, as Bradwode or Broadwood.</p> - -<p>In Rookhope there is a Foul Wood, a lead-mine so named over two hundred -years ago. Its name is evidently from the Anglo-Saxon <i>ful</i>, rotten, the -same as Foul Sike was the impure watercourse. In 1401 Roger Thornton -leased a lead-mine in Weardale at a place called Old Wode Clough.</p> - -<p>In <i>field</i>, <i>ley</i>, and <i>ridding</i>, we have indications of clearings in -the forest—places where cattle might feed. In Weardale there are some -thirty <i>leys</i>, numerous <i>fields</i> but very few <i>riddings</i>. The latter -word is from Anglo-Saxon <i>hreddan</i>, to rid; <i>hredding</i> a ridding; Danish -<i>rydde</i>, to clear, grub up; <i>rydning</i>, clearing. The Weardale people are -familiar with <i>rid-up</i>, a house; <i>rid-out</i>, a quarry; and similar terms. -It is different from the <i>riding</i>, from Anglo-Saxon <i>thri</i>, <i>thry</i>, -three; <i>thridda</i>, the third; <i>thrithing</i>, a third part of a province, as -in the Yorkshire Ridings. Five hundred years ago John Migg held at -Stanhope four acres of land in the <i>Ridding</i>, Robert Todd held <i>j -Ridding</i> over an acre, and Alexander Brancepath held five acres and one -rod in the <i>Riddying</i>. In Queen Elizabeth’s time Michael Fetherstonhalgh -of Stanhope Hall purchased of Follinsby a parcel of ground called -Pathemairidding. In Path-mai<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_103">{103}</a></span>ridding we have the ridding on the plain -over which there was a path.</p> - -<p><i>Ley</i>, <i>lea</i>, <i>lee</i>, <i>lay</i>, is an open place, a pasture or field where -cattle may lie; from the Anglo-Saxon <i>leah</i>, <i>leag</i>, <i>lege</i>, <i>lea</i>, -<i>leah</i>; from <i>licgan</i>, <i>liggan</i>, to lie. The <i>lea</i> was an opening or -forest clearing where cattle might be depastured, but where a good deal -of woodland might exist. Gray, in the opening lines of his beautiful -"Elegy," sings—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The lowing herd winds slowly o’er the <i>lea</i>."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">This terminal occurs in over twenty names of places in Boldon Buke. In -Weardale there are five names of places having this suffix which are -very important, as they give names to extensive stretches of land, and -very probably the adjectival components may all be derived from personal -names. These are Frosterley, Bishopley, Rogerley, Horsley, and -Brotherlee.</p> - -<p>On the hill north of Eastgate is situated Bewley, where once a cross -existed, and in former days a watch for invaders was kept here. This -place-name is probably more correctly Bewdley. In 1380 and 1590 it was -written <i>Bowdlye</i>, and may be derived from the Anglo-Saxon <i>bige</i>, -<i>biga</i>, <i>bigan</i>, a turning, corner, bending, angle, the ley, or field, -on the bend or bow of the hill, the bowed ley.</p> - -<p>Amongst the highest hills in Weardale are Fendrith Hill, Knoutberry -Hill, Noon Hill, St. Cuthbert’s Hill, and Horseshoe Hill. <i>Hill</i>, <i>hyl</i>, -<i>hyll</i>, is Anglo-Saxon, Norse <i>holl</i>, a name given to large and small -elevations. One of these hills is named after the patron saint of the -Bishopric of St. Cuthbert. Like Outberry Plain on the southern ridge, -Knoutberry Hill on the north, evidently derived its name from the -cloud-berry, <i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>, which grows on the Weardale fells. In -1614, however, it was written Nookhill. Fendrith was written in 1539 -Fenrake. The word <i>rake</i> is common in Weardale, and means to walk or -range, or the extent of the walk—hence a sheep-<i>rake</i>, Swedish <i>reka</i>, -to travel, journey. A <i>fen</i> is land<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_104">{104}</a></span> covered with mud, a morass—hence -the Fenrake was the district covered by a large morass. The hill known -as the Horseshoe might be so shaped, or the suffix may be <i>shaw</i>, a -wood—the wood of Horsa.</p> - -<p>Amongst hills of lesser elevations than the five abovementioned are -Billing Hills, where the Scots camped in 1327; Scaud Hill, in Burnhope, -from the Anglo-Saxon <i>sceawian</i>, <i>scewian</i>, to look; Batable Hill, -debatable land; Scrog Hill, Anglo-Saxon <i>scrob</i>, <i>scrobb</i>, a shrub, the -hill of shrubs; Dun Hill, Ancient British <i>dun</i>, a height or hill fort -(Gaelic <i>dun</i>, as Dun Fell, in Teesdale). Dod Hill and Dodder Hill are -mountains with rounded summits, as Dodd Fell, in the Lake District. -Cross Hill, in Stanhope, is where an ancient cross stood. We had a Paper -Hill and a Poperd Hill, which were the hills where the priests preached. -We have hills known or distinguished as <i>hard</i>, <i>long</i>, <i>windy</i>, -<i>slate</i>, <i>black</i>, <i>green</i>, <i>white</i>, <i>gold</i>, <i>quarrel</i> (quarry), <i>hungry</i> -(poor), <i>stony</i>, <i>great</i>, <i>low</i>, etc. Animals contribute their names, as -in Hog Hill, Lamb Hill, Plover Hill, Fairhills (Norse <i>faar</i>, sheep), -and Cowshill, the hill where cows congregated.</p> - -<p><i>Law</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>hlaw</i>, <i>hlæw</i>, rising ground, an elevation, a hill. -In the south it is <i>low</i>, as Ludlow, the people’s hill. Killhope Law is -2,206 feet above sea-level, Collier Law 1,692, Bolts Law 1,772, and Pow -Law and the Three Laws are the names of other hills in the district.</p> - -<p><i>Seat</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>set</i>, a sitting; <i>sæta</i>, settlers, inhabitants. The -root <i>sæte</i>, <i>set</i>, or <i>seta</i>, enters into several names of places in -England, some of which are county towns, as Dorset, Somerset; Old Norse -<i>setr</i>, a seat. The Norwegian <i>seter</i> is a pasture or -mountain-side—Burnhope Seat, Dora’s Seat, and Raven’s Seat. One was the -settlement of a person named Raven, or Rafn; the other that of Dora, or -Dore. In 1614 we find Dorry Sette. Bishop’s Seat was the place where the -lords of the Bishopric settled when hunting in Weardale Forest. Another -name is Laverock Seat, evidently Leofric’s Seat, modernized into -Lark-seat.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_105">{105}</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Head</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>head</i>, <i>heafod</i>, a head. In a district full of -undulating lands and small valleys there are several places deriving -their names from being the top or head, or finished part of something, -as Lanehead, Wearhead, Dalehead, Sidehead, Nag’s Head, Lamb’s Head, and -others.</p> - -<p><i>Rig</i>, <i>rigg</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>rig</i>, <i>hrycg</i>, and various other forms; -Danish <i>ryg</i>; Icelandic <i>hriggr</i>, a ridge, a back. Stangend Rigg is -2,075 feet above sea-level.</p> - -<p><i>Plain</i> and <i>pike</i> are sufficiently expressive—the one a broad stretch -of land, and the other a peak or pointed eminence. Five Pikes are near -Paw Law Pike, a south-eastern boundary point on the hills. Ireshope -Plains is a euphonious name; and Bewdley Plain, Sedling Plain, Outberry -Plain, may be mentioned in the list.</p> - -<p><i>Moor</i>, <i>fell</i>, <i>common</i>, are well-known terms. Anglo-Saxon <i>mor</i> is -waste-land, a moor, a heath; Danish <i>mor</i> is a moor, or morass; we have -Killhope, Burnhope, and Wellhope Moors. <i>Fell</i> is Old Norse. All the -Weardale moorlands are called fells. Chapel Fell is 2,294 feet above -sea-level; A <i>common</i> is a tract of unenclosed pasture or outside land -on which the tenantry of the inlands have a common right, or right of -common for their sheep.</p> - -<p><i>Bank</i>, <i>band</i>, <i>brae</i>, and <i>brow</i>, are common in place-names, as Brook -Bank, Owsen Bands, Whitfield Brow, etc. <i>Batts</i>, low, flat ground near -water; Anglo-Saxon <i>bæth</i>, a bath, land subject to be soaked with water. -<i>Berry</i>, as Knoutberry Hill, Bleaberry, and Snodberry, are from the -Anglo-Saxon <i>beorg</i>, <i>beorh</i>, a hill. <i>Cut</i>, <i>cove</i>, as Cove’s Houses; -<i>crooks</i>, as Milncrook, Seggecrok, Crawcrook, are found. Also <i>end</i>, as -Hill End; and <i>edge</i>, as White Edge, Band Edge. <i>Flat</i>, <i>green</i>, and -<i>ground</i>, are also found in several place-names, as Barnflat, Willow -Green, and Trodden Ground. In the Boldon Buke we have Pelhou, Quesshow, -and Dunhow, from <i>haw</i>, Anglo-Saxon <i>hæge</i>, a hedge.</p> - -<p><i>Haugh</i> is a common name in Northumberland for low-lying grounds close -to rivers. It is frequently met with on<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_106">{106}</a></span> the Tyne, but it is not so -common on the Wear. Worsaae returns <i>haugh</i> in no other county than -Northumberland, to which he ascribes ten, the <i>haugh</i>, or <i>how</i>, being -given as the Scandinavian <i>haugh</i>, a hill; but the <i>haugh</i> of the -Borderland is low-lying and sheltered meadow-land close to the winding -rivers. In 1380, at Stanhope, there was a Castle Hogh, known as the -Castle Haugh until within fifty years ago. There is a <i>haugh</i> at Softly, -and a <i>haughing-gate</i> at Eastgate. There are various <i>haughs</i> in and -about Blanchland, and it might appear that Weardale, where it is very -rare, formed the southern boundary. But there are, however, three -<i>haughs</i> in the West Riding.</p> - -<p><i>Hooks</i>, <i>height</i>, <i>hole</i>, and <i>howl</i>. We have Fairy Holes—caves in the -limestone—Foxholes, Brockholes, and Catholes, as names of places; Hole -House, Clay Holes, and many others. Cuthbert Heights is from St. -Cuthbert. <i>Knot</i>, <i>loc</i>, <i>lake</i>, <i>land</i>, as the Knotts, the Locks, -Cocklake, and the Lands. <i>Mea</i>, Welsh <i>maes</i>, Erse <i>magh</i>—a plan—is -very common in the Durham dales. In Teesdale there is Flushy Mea, Sow -Mea; and, in Weardale, Broad Mea, Mea Sike, Pitty Mea, Rimea, and -others. <i>Mound</i>, moss, <i>nook</i>, <i>rake</i>, <i>pit</i>, and <i>pot</i>, occur in many -names.</p> - -<p><i>Side</i>, a Saxon word, Icelandic <i>sida</i>, the edge, a hillside, enters -into a number of names of places, as Fell Side, Kirk Side, with -<i>siders</i>, as Cuthbert Siders; and also <i>sedeing</i>, a sideling or sloping. -<i>Slack</i>, <i>spot</i>, <i>wick</i>, <i>wham</i>, <i>clints</i>, <i>crag</i>, <i>carr</i>, <i>scar</i>, are -amongst other words forming place-names.</p> - -<p>Habitations and enclosures have their special names.</p> - -<p>When the Angles and Saxons arrived in our island they planted -settlements in fertile districts. By the margins of some meandering -river, which had already been named by the earlier Celtic race, the -Saxon families located themselves and established homes, many of which -are now large towns. The forest growth was cleared, and, with that love -of home characteristic of the Saxons, a portion of the cleared land was -enclosed, guarded, or protected, with the <i>tines</i> of forest growth—the -tines or twigs<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_107">{107}</a></span> of the wood; hence <i>tun</i> occurs in 137 Anglo-Saxon names -of places in the 1,200 taken from Kemble’s Charters. This termination -became to mean, not the tines or twigs alone, nor yet the hedges of -which they were made, but the whole enclosure or estate was the <i>tun</i> or -<i>ton</i> of some person; or the <i>ton</i> otherwise distinguished, as Stockton, -the stockaded town; Middleton, the middle town; Willington, the town of -the family of Willing—sons of Will. Other terminations indicate Saxon -homes, as <i>ham</i>, <i>worth</i>, <i>stoke</i>, <i>stow</i>, <i>fold</i>, <i>bury</i>. In the Boldon -Buke we find the Danish <i>toft</i>; and the universal description of small -holdings in Hatfield’s Survey is a <i>toft</i> and a <i>croft</i>. We also find in -primitive days the villagers holding <i>dales</i> of land—land divided into -long, narrow strips or divisions, each villager knowing his own strip. -When Weardale was more under cultivation, it was customary for the -inhabitants to <i>take in</i> land from the moors; hence we find the -place-name <i>intake</i>, locally <i>intak</i>. And at a later period still, when -Acts of Parliament dealt with the division of moorlands, we got the name -<i>allotment</i>, abbreviated to <i>lotment</i> and <i>lot</i>—the allotted land.</p> - -<p><i>Acre</i> is mentioned, as in Farnacres, in the Boldon Buke; and in later -surveys are Longacre and Etheredacres. <i>Barn</i>, <i>berry</i>, <i>beeld</i>, <i>byre</i>, -and <i>by</i>, <i>bower</i>, <i>cave</i>, <i>castle</i>, <i>chesters</i>, <i>close</i>, <i>croft</i>, -<i>dale</i>, and <i>darg</i>—as six darg, from Anglo-Saxon <i>dæg-weorc</i>, day’s -work. <i>Fold</i>, <i>farm</i>, <i>faw</i>, <i>frith</i>, <i>gate</i>, <i>garth</i>, <i>hot</i>, <i>ing</i>, -<i>ham</i>, <i>kirk</i>, <i>lodge</i>, <i>park</i>, <i>meadow</i>, <i>pry</i>, <i>shield</i>, <i>stead</i>, -<i>ton</i>, and <i>wall</i>, are common in the dales of the county of Durham.</p> - -<p>Amongst the names referring to buildings we have <i>cross</i>, as Killhope -Cross and Edmundbyres Cross. Stone crosses to guide the wayfarer were -once erected at these places. <i>Brig</i> is from bridge, whether built of -stone or wood. <i>Currock</i>, a pile of stones erected on the moors or fells -as a landmark. <i>Peth</i> and <i>lonnon</i> and <i>way</i> are also common names. And -all these have their adjectival component, as Lodge Field, Leases Park, -Mill Houses, Pry Hill, Old Faw, Shield Ash, Watch Currock, etc.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_108">{108}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="DURHAM_CATHEDRAL"></a>DURHAM CATHEDRAL<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By the Rev. William Greenwell, M.A., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.S.A.</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>N the year 875 the great Scandinavian invasions were assuming large -proportions, and among other parts of England where the Danes landed and -harried the country was the coast of Northumbria. The monks fled from -Lindisfarne, which had been selected by Aidan principally because of its -resemblance to Iona. There was probably another reason for the choice: -its neighbourhood to the stronghold of Bamborough, the seat of the -Northumbrian Kings. Lindisfarne is very near to it, and naturally would -be under the protection of the King who lived there.</p> - -<p>Bamborough, however, proved no protection against the Danes, who came -oversea, and, landing on the coast, overran not only a great part of the -North of England, but also a considerable portion of the South of -Scotland. The monks, fearing lest they should be deprived of St. -Cuthbert’s body and their other treasures, and of their lives as well, -fled from Lindisfarne, carrying with them the body of the saint. Many -churches dedicated to St. Cuthbert in these parts probably mark the -spots where the monks in their journeying rested for a while.</p> - -<p>After wandering from 875 to 883, having remained for a short time at -Crayke, they settled at Chester-le-Street, which was given to them by -Guthred, a Danish King then reigning in Northumbria, and who had become -a Christian.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p> - -<p>There the body rested, and from it the Bernician See was ruled until the -removal of Bishop Aldhun and the congregation of St. Cuthbert (after a -short sojourn at Ripon) to Durham in 995. The difficulties of an -adequate defence probably proved to the monks that Chester-le-Street was -not a suitable place for their protection. The superior position of -Durham was no doubt the reason why it was selected for the site of the -see. This, then, was the commencement of the church and city of Durham.</p> - -<p>In 999 Bishop Aldhun, having commenced it three years before, completed -the building of a stone church, to which the body of St. Cuthbert was -transferred from a wooden building (<i>æcclesiola</i>, Symeon calls it), -where it had been at first placed. Of that church no part remains -visible to the eye, though there are no doubt thousands of the stones -belonging to it enclosed within the walls of the present church.</p> - -<p>The first building remained until after the Norman Conquest, a great -change having taken place in the meantime. The monks who, with the -Bishop, had originally constituted the congregation of St. Cuthbert, had -fallen from the rule which was first observed. There was in those days a -great tendency among the regular clergy in the Saxon Church to -degenerate into a kind of secular clergy. Symeon says those at Durham -were neither monks nor regular canons. At Durham, as at Hexham, some -members of the congregation were married and had families, and there was -springing up at Durham possibly, as there certainly was at Hexham, an -hereditary system, son succeeding father; and had the system gone on, -there would have arisen a sacerdotal caste, with all the evils attending -such a body. The Norman Conquest happily did away with that, as it did -with other abuses. It is probable that some remains connected with these -married members of the congregation were discovered in 1874, when the -foundations of the east end of the old chapter-house, which was so -ruthlessly destroyed in 1796, were laid bare. The graves of Bishops<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_110">{110}</a></span> -Ranulph Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, and William de St. Barbara were met -with, each covered with a slab bearing his name—probably not quite -contemporary—and in them were found three episcopal rings of gold, set -with sapphires, and in the grave of Flambard, the head, made of iron, -plated with silver, and the iron ferrule of a pastoral staff, all of -which are now preserved in the cathedral library. Below the level of the -Bishops’ graves there were found a considerable number of skeletons of -men, women, and children, with one of which was deposited the iron head -of a spear, having the socket plated with gold. There can be little -doubt that these bodies belonged to the married portion of the -congregation and their families, who occupied the monastery at Durham -from the time of Aldhun to their being dispossessed by Bishop William of -St. Carileph.</p> - -<p>Allusion has already been made to the congregation of St. Cuthbert, but -of that body some further account must be given. The religious -community, the congregation of St. Cuthbert, which ultimately settled at -Durham, included the Bishop and the monks. The two formed one body, -whose interests were identical, and whose property was in common; and -the Bishop lived among the monks, over whom he ruled within the -community as he ruled over the diocese without, having no estates or -means of subsistence separate from the congregation of which he formed a -part. This unity between the Bishop and the monks was very similar to -that which prevailed amongst the early religious communities in Ireland -and Scotland. The system went on at Durham until the establishment of -the Benedictine Order there by Bishop William of St. Carileph, shortly -after the Norman Conquest. He was the second Bishop appointed by William -I., Walcher, the first Norman Bishop, having been killed, after a short -reign, by his own people at Gateshead, during a rebellion caused by the -oppression of his officials. William of St. Carileph, Abbot of St. -Vincent, became Bishop in 1081. Originally a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_111">{111}</a></span> secular priest, he -afterwards became a monk in the monastery of St. Calais, and such an -establishment as that he found at Durham must have been most distasteful -to him. A Benedictine monk himself, he naturally preferred being -surrounded by religious of his own Order, and not by those of whose -system he disapproved. In the time of Bishop Walcher the ancient -monasteries of Jarrow and Wearmouth were to a great extent, though -probably not altogether, deserted, and had been so since they were laid -waste by the Danes. When Bishop William determined upon establishing -Benedictine monks at Durham, he found these two monasteries already -existing at Jarrow and Wearmouth. Thinking there were not sufficient -provision for the maintenance of more than one monastery, he transferred -the monks from Jarrow and Wearmouth to Durham in 1083, and founded a -Benedictine house there. He became a party to the rebellion against -William Rufus in 1088, and was driven an exile for three years into -Normandy. It may well be that during his sojourn there he conceived the -design of replacing the old church by a new and more magnificent one. -Normandy at that time was full of large and noble churches, many lately -erected, and we can readily understand how the thought may have passed -across the mind of Carileph that, if he ever returned to Durham, he -would raise there a more glorious building, and one better adapted to -the wants of the new community than the church he had left behind him. -At all events, on his return, he determined to build a new church, and -may we not suppose that gratitude was among the motives which induced -him to do this? In the meanwhile, during the time of his exile, as we -learn from Symeon, the monks had built the refectory as, says he, it now -stands. Symeon was living in the early part of the twelfth century; he -therefore speaks with authority. The crypt under the refectory, which -still exists, cannot be later than Symeon’s time, and must therefore be -part of the refectory built during Carileph’s exile (1088-1091), and is -therefore in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_112">{112}</a></span> either case one of the earliest buildings at Durham in -connection with the monastery.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_015" style="width: 648px;"> -<a href="images/i_112.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_112.jpg" width="648" height="458" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<p><span class="smcap">The Crypt, Durham Cathedral.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>This very ancient structure lies on the south side of the cloister, and -to the west of a contemporary passage leading from it into the great -enclosure of the monastery, now called the college. The passage itself -has an arcade of low blind arches on either side, and openings, possibly -coeval<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_113">{113}</a></span> with it, lead into the crypt under the refectory at one side, -and into a smaller one on the other. The refectory crypt is low, being -only seven and a half feet high, and commences at the east end with a -division, which has a plain, barrel-shaped vault. From this an arched -opening leads into the main area of the crypt. It is divided into three -aisles by two rows of short, massive square pillars, four in each row, -making five bays in the length. The pillars support a plain groined -vault without ribs or transverse arches. This space is again succeeded -towards the west by three divisions, the westernmost one being not so -long as the others, all the three having, like the first and easternmost -one, plain barrel vaults. Up to this point the whole crypt is of the -same early date, but beyond, to the west of what appears to be an -original wall, are some other structures, the cellar and pantry, of -later times. The older crypt has been lighted on the south side by at -least seven, or possibly more, small windows, all round-headed except -one, which is circular.</p> - -<p>To the east of the passage there is, as has already been stated, a -smaller crypt, which in general corresponds with the architectural -character of that under the refectory. It is now beneath the -entrance-hall of the deanery, once part of the Prior’s hall, and has -apparently been curtailed of some of its original length.</p> - -<p>Symeon, a monk of Durham, already mentioned, lived when a great part of -the work at the church was going on, and therefore his testimony is very -important. He wrote a history of the church of Durham, and his history -was continued after him by an anonymous writer. We next have a further -continuation by Geoffrey de Coldingham, Robert de Graystanes, and -William de Chambre, together with a number of indulgences from various -Bishops, given towards obtaining means for making additions to and -alterations in the building, and a few, but late, fabric rolls. Besides -these there is a most important document, "A Description or Brief -Declaration of all the Ancient<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_114">{114}</a></span> Monuments, Rites, and Customs belonging -or being within the Monastical Church of Durham before the Suppression," -apparently written towards the end of the sixteenth century by someone -who had been an inmate of the monastery. These form the series of -historical evidences which now exist with regard to the dates of the -various parts of the church.</p> - -<p>In 1093, on August 11, the foundation-stones of the new church were -laid, the foundations themselves having been dug on the preceding July -29. Aldhun’s church, as Symeon tells us, had been previously destroyed. -There were then present Bishop William of St. Carileph; Turgot, Prior of -the monastery, afterwards Bishop at St. Andrews; and, as other writers -say, Malcolm, King of Scotland. The continuator of Symeon says that, on -the accession of Flambard, he found the church finished as far as the -nave. This statement does not, of course, imply that the whole of this -was the work of Carileph, for the monks after his death had carried on -the building of the church; but it appears on the whole probable that, -with the exception of the west side of the transepts and the vaulting of -the choir, all the church up to the point mentioned had been built -before the death of Carileph.</p> - -<p>It may be well to give here a general description of the Norman work, -taking the nave first, as being the most important feature in the whole -great scheme. The nave consists of three double compartments, a single -bay westward of these, and the western bay flanked by the towers. The -principal piers consist of triple shafts, placed on each face of a -central mass, square in plan; the shafts rest on massive bases of -cruciform plan, having a flat projecting band about the middle and a -narrow plinth at the bottom. A similar band and plinth are carried -beneath the wall-arcades of the nave and transepts and entirely round -the church on the outside. In the choir, however, except on the piers of -the tower arch, the bases are without a band, but have a plinth of -greater height, the responds on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_115">{115}</a></span> aisle walls being similar. The -triple shafts next the nave or choir rise almost to the top of the -triforium, and support the great transverse arches of the vault. The -shafts next the aisles receive the diagonal and transverse ribs of the -aisle vault, and the shafts on the two remaining faces receive the -arches of the great arcade. The intermediate piers, in the centre of -each double compartment, are circular in plan, and stand on square -bases. The western pair of piers, at the corners of the towers, are -clustered like the other main piers, but have two additional shafts -(like the crossing piers), but these shafts on the side next the nave -receive the diagonal ribs of the vault, whereas the additional shafts on -the crossing piers support the outer order of the tower arches.</p> - -<p>The triforium is of eight bays, having a containing arch with two -sub-arches, the tympanum being solid. The clerestory has in each of its -eight bays a lofty and wide arch with a smaller and lower one on each -side, the central arch having a window fronting it. It has a wall -passage which connects it with the clerestories on the west side of the -transepts. The inner arcade in the eastern bays appears to be an -insertion, possibly made when the vault was put on the nave. The idea of -vaulting the nave was apparently abandoned, when the triforium stage was -reached, and it is probable that the arrangement of the nave clerestory -was at first not unlike that of the south transept. The resumption of -the vaulting idea thus necessitated an alteration in the design of the -clerestory.</p> - -<p>The nave is covered a double quadripartite vault over each double -compartment, without transverse ribs over the minor piers. The great -transverse arches, which spring from the major piers, are pointed. The -diagonal ribs, which rise from corbels inserted in the spandrils of the -triforium arches, are semicircular. They are all decorated with zigzag.</p> - -<p>The choir consists of two double compartments, and in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_116">{116}</a></span> its plan as a -whole agrees with that of the nave. There are, however, some differences -in the details. The piers of the great arcades, although similar in -motive to those of the nave, are much longer from east to west, and are, -in fact, more like sections of wall than piers. The clerestory is quite -unlike that of the nave, having a plain round-headed arch in each bay, -with a corresponding window, and is destitute of a wall passage. The -triforiums on both sides of the choir and on the east side of the -transepts are all very similar. They are lighted by windows, consisting -of two small round-headed openings, about twenty inches apart, under a -containing arch. The buttressing arches, which are opposite the piers, -are semicircular in form, and are contemporaneous with the arcades. Each -transept has two double bays, with an aisle on the east side. The vault -on the north transept has one transverse arch, which is semicircular, -the double bay to the north having a single quadripartite vault with -segmental diagonal ribs. All the ribs are moulded with a roll between -two hollows. The south transept has a similarly formed vault, but the -ribs are enriched with zigzag. The triforium and other upper parts of -the church are reached by staircases contained in two square internal -projections which are in the north-west and south-west angles of the -transept. The end walls of the transepts were probably lighted by three -tiers of windows; the lowest—which still remains—though blocked up, in -the south transept, is a single round-headed window. It is difficult to -say what was the arrangement above, but probably there were three -windows on the triforium level and one on that of the clerestory. -Passages crossed the ends at these levels, but none now remain in their -original state.</p> - -<p>The vaults of the aisles of the choir, transepts, and nave, are -quadripartite and are the same throughout, except that the diagonal ribs -of the nave aisles beyond the two eastern bays have zigzag upon them.</p> - -<p>The transverse ribs, which rise alike from both piers<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_117">{117}</a></span> and columns, are -composed of a flat soffit, with a roll and shallow on each edge, the -diagonal ribs having a large roll between two hollows. The first -compartment of the nave arcade, which comprises two bays and the east -bay of the triforium arcade, correspond in their mouldings and other -features with those of the choir, whereas in the remainder of the nave, -although the elevation in its general design and principal features is -the same, the mouldings in some essential particulars, especially in the -use of the zigzag and the course of small sunk squares forming a quasi -hood-moulding round the arches of the great arcade, differ from those of -the choir. There is a difference also in the way in which the diagonal -ribs of the main vault was carried. In the choir the diagonal ribs of -the original Norman vault are supported on shafts, which still remain -and rise from the level of the triforium floor; on the east side of the -transept they are supported by similar shafts; in the nave they are -supported on brackets formed of two grotesque heads, inserted in the -spandrils between the containing arches of the triforium. The eastern -compartment of the nave arcade, with the triforium arch above it, which, -before the nave was completed, acted as an abutment to the tower arches -on the west side, as the similar and corresponding arches of the -transepts did on the north and south, must necessarily have been built -at the same time as the tower arches themselves, and, therefore, -naturally corresponds with them in the details.</p> - -<p>The spiral grooving on the piers, a rare feature in Norman work, is seen -in the choir and transepts, but not in the nave, where lozenge and -zigzag patterns and flutings are used instead. The spirals are contrary -to the ordinary direction of those on a screw. The eastern part of -Carileph’s church no longer exists, having been replaced by a very -beautiful eastern transept. Until some important excavations were made -in 1895, it was generally believed that the choir ended in an apsidal -termination, with an extension of the aisles forming an ambulatory<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_118">{118}</a></span> -round it. The foundations of the east end of the aisles, as well as of -the choir, together with a small portion of the choir wall itself, were -then discovered. From what remained it was shown that Carileph’s choir -terminated in three apses, the central one, which extended 27 feet -beyond the others, being semicircular on the outside as well as within, -while those at the end of the aisles had been semicircular only on the -inside, being finished square externally.</p> - -<p>To Galfrid Rufus may be attributed the present great north and south -doorways of the nave, themselves, however, replacing earlier ones. The -sculpturing upon these doorways, and that upon the corbels which once -supported the ribs at the east end of the chapter-house, have apparently -been done by the same hand, and there is otherwise much in common -between the decoration of these doorways and that of the chapter-house -itself.</p> - -<p>Skilfully wrought and probably contemporary ironwork covers the south -door, still remaining in a very perfect state.</p> - -<p>On the north door there are sufficient indications to show what was the -pattern of the ironwork once there, and, indeed, with care and under a -favourable light, the very elaborate design may be made out. The -grotesque but effective sanctuary knocker of bronze, of the same date as -the door itself, if it does not invite the unfortunate offender to seek -for that protection now, happily, under more humane conditions, not -needed for his safety, will recall to memory how the Church in a ruder -age held out her saving hand, and interposed between the shedder of -blood, sometimes guiltless, and the avenger.</p> - -<p>The death of Bishop Carileph took place in 1096, and an interval of -three years elapsed before the election of Bishop Flambard, in 1099, who -is described as great by some, and infamous by other, writers.</p> - -<p>Ralph Flambard was William Rufus’s Chancellor, and whether he was -infamous or not, he was, anyhow, a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_119">{119}</a></span> remarkable man. We are told by the -continuator of Symeon, that he carried on the work of the nave up to the -roof—that is, that he completed the nave as far as the vault, including -the side aisles and their vaults, and probably at the same time building -that portion of the western towers which attains an equal elevation with -the walls of the nave.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_016" style="width: 355px;"> -<a href="images/i_119.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_119.jpg" width="355" height="519" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Sanctuary Knocker, Durham Cathedral.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Flambard probably began to build soon after he became Bishop, and though -that part of the church which is due to him might not have been finished -until near the time of his death, no material alteration seems to have -been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_120">{120}</a></span> made in the plan. With regard to the upper part of the western -towers, and the time when they were built, we are entirely left to the -evidence of the architecture itself, for nothing has been recorded which -has reference to their erection. The upper stages belong to a time when -the style called the Early English was being developed, and they may -have been constructed during the episcopate of Richard de Marisco -(1217-26), or even of Philip de Pictavia (1197-1208). Although the -towers have suffered much from weathering, and more from the paring -process, which, however, to some extent, has been remedied by the late -reparation, they are well designed and very effective additions to the -church as originally planned. In combination with the end of the nave -and the bold mouldings of Pudsey’s Galilee, they form a termination -which will not suffer even when compared with some of our finest west -fronts. The upper part of both is enriched by four arcades, two open and -two blank, of alternately round-headed and pointed arches. The towers -were, until the time of the Commonwealth, surmounted by spires of wood -covered with lead. At present they are finished by a parapet with -turrets, placed there at the beginning of the present century, which, -though faulty in detail, are, nevertheless, by no means unworthy of the -towers they crown, and add materially to the picturesque outline of the -cathedral when viewed from a distance.</p> - -<p>Bishop Cosin, in his articles of inquiry at his first visitation in -1662, asks: "What is become of the wood and lead of the two great -broaches that stood upon the square towers at the west end of the -church?" (<i>Miscellanea</i>, Surtees Society, vol. xxxvii., p. 257). This -inquiry was repeated in Cosin’s second visitation, July 17, 1665, and -the reply made in the presentment of the minor canons, etc., was as -follows: "And as for the lead and timber of the two great broaches at -the west end of the church, Mr. Gilbert Marshall can give the best -account how they were employed" (Hunter MSS., vol. xi., No. 94). To</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_017" style="width: 457px;"> -<a href="images/i_120fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_120fp.jpg" width="457" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Western Towers of Durham Cathedral, from the Window -of the Monks’ Library.</span></p> - -<p><i>From a Drawing by R. W. Billings.</i></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_121">{121}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">this reply James Green, minor canon and sacrist, adds: "Mr. Gilbert -Marshall, Mr. Gilpin, and Mr. Anthony Smith, can best tell what became -of it" (Hunter MSS., vol. xi., No. 98). Bishop Cosin would remember them -as being on the towers when he was Prebendary before the time of the -Commonwealth. That they were never rebuilt is shown by Buck’s view, -published in 1732, where the towers are without spires.</p> - -<p>The most important, as it is not the least striking and beautiful, -object in the choir is the large and lofty throne, built by Bishop -Thomas de Hatfield (1345-81) during his lifetime, for his tomb beneath -and the throne above. It is a structure worthy of the Palatine See of -Durham and of the mighty Prince-Bishop who erected it. The alabaster -figure of the Bishop still remains, comparatively perfect, clothed in -richly decorated pontifical vestments, lying on an altar-tomb under a -canopy whose groining is finely ornamented with bosses of boldly -sculptured foliage. Upon the wall at each end of the arch, and opposite -to the head and feet of the Bishop, are two angels painted in fresco. -Those at the feet hold a blank shield, but at the other end the painting -is too much damaged to allow the object they hold to be made out. The -whole throne has once been richly gilded and coloured, and contains many -shields with the Bishop’s and other arms upon them. In the construction -of the upper portion of the throne it is not well fitted into the space -it occupies between the pillars, and some of its parts do not quite -correspond with each other. The impression given by these incongruities -is that Hatfield used some pieces of stonework already carved before he -planned the throne, and that it possibly was, like the Galilee, not -intended from the first to occupy the position in which it was -ultimately placed.</p> - -<p>Another beautiful piece of work of about the same period as the throne -is the screen behind the high-altar, commenced to be built in 1372 and -finished before 1380, when the altar was dedicated. It is commonly -called the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_122">{122}</a></span> Neville Screen, on account of a great part of the expense of -erecting it having been defrayed by John, Lord Neville, of Raby, though -Prior Fossor (1341-74), Prior Berrington (1374-91), and others, bore -some part of the cost. It was brought from London to Newcastle by sea, -and has always been spoken of as made of Caen stone, "French peere" as -it is called in the rites of Durham, being really Dorsetshire clunch.</p> - -<p>St. Cuthbert is said to have had a more than usual monastic dislike to -women—though some of his most intimate friends were women—and -therefore to have built the Lady Chapel at the east end of the choir, -the ordinary position, which was close to his shrine, would have been -most distasteful to him. No woman, indeed, was allowed to approach -farther eastward in the church than as far as a line of dark-coloured -Frosterley marble, forming a cross with two short limbs at the centre, -which stretches across the nave between the piers, just west of the -north and south doors. The Chapel of the Blessed Virgin,<a id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> commonly -called the Galilee, was therefore placed where we now see it. It rises -almost directly from the edge of the river-bank, and is built against -the west front of the church. It is of an oblong form, of five aisles -divided by four arcades, each of four bays, the aisles being all of the -same width. The middle aisle is higher than those adjoining, and these -again are higher than the extreme north and south ones. The arches, -richly decorated with zigzag, are supported upon columns, originally -composed of two slender shafts of Purbeck marble, but now of four -shafts, alternately of marble and sandstone, the latter, added by -Cardinal Langley when he repaired the Galilee in which he placed his -tomb in front of the altar, having capitals of plain volutes, which are -very characteristic of the Transitional period. The chapel was entered -from without through a doorway on the north side, which has been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_123">{123}</a></span> -restored, the old one, however, having been exactly copied to the -minutest parts. The doorway is deeply recessed, the wall being increased -in thickness on both sides in the manner usual at that time, and is a -fine example of the style in use when it was erected. Access to the -church from the Galilee was also obtained through the great west door, -which was probably not blocked up until Bishop Langley placed the altar -of the Blessed Virgin there, and made two doors, one at the north and -the other at the south end of the west wall. The chapel was at first -lighted by eight round-headed windows, placed high in the wall above the -arches of the outer arcade on the north and south sides, and no doubt -had other windows at the west end. The three windows in the north wall -and the four in the south, originally inserted about the close of the -thirteenth century, when the walls were raised in height, have all been -renewed, so far as the mullions and tracery are concerned. It is -probable that at the same time five similar windows were placed in the -west wall, of which only two are now left, the others having given place -to three fifteenth-century windows. At the time when these important -alterations were made, the original windows in the wall above the arches -were probably blocked up. Their outline, however, is still to be traced -quite distinctly.</p> - -<p>It must not be overlooked that the shrine containing the bones of the -Venerable Bede were ultimately placed in the Galilee in 1370, in front -of his altar. The bones are now placed in a plain tomb, having upon it -the well-known inscription, which, however, was only engraved on the -covering slab in 1830:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Hac sunt in fossa Bedæ venerabilis ossa.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>There are some beautiful and well-preserved fresco paintings on the east -wall at its north end. They are contemporary with the building, and -comprise a King and Bishop, probably St. Oswald and St. Cuthbert, and -some tasteful decoration of conventional leaf forms, very -charac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_124">{124}</a></span>teristic of the art of the period. The lower part of the back of -the recess, on the sides of which the figures occur, is filled with a -representation of hangings, the middle of which is now defaced, but -where, before the Dissolution, was a picture of our Lady with the dead -Christ. It is not impossible that the principal altar of the Blessed -Virgin originally stood there, and was transferred by Cardinal Langley -to the position it afterwards occupied when he probably built up the -great western doorway of the church. The site in question was, up to the -time of the Reformation, devoted to the altar of Our Lady of Pity, or -Piety, which may have been removed thither by Langley from the recess to -the north of it, which is surmounted by an arch with the dentel moulding -of a date apparently not later than the commencement of the thirteenth -century—a removal necessitated by his making there one of the two new -doorways into the Galilee. These paintings are not only of great -interest in themselves, but they possess a further one of being the only -specimens of fresco decoration in the cathedral which are now anything -more than mere fragments. The arches and capitals in the Galilee have -also been enriched by colour, among the designs being a zigzag and -spiral pattern. It does not appear that this kind of decoration had ever -been used to any great extent throughout the church, for very few -remains of it were discovered when the modern whitewash was lately -removed.</p> - -<p>In the aisle, however, of the north transept, where the altars of St. -Benedict and St. Gregory and that of St. Nicholas and St. Giles once -stood, there are some portions of the pictures which adorned the wall -behind them, including, in connection with St. Gregory’s altar, the -upper part of a figure vested with the pallium. There are also some -scanty remnants of colour left behind the altars of Our Lady of Houghall -and Our Lady of Bolton in the aisle of the south transept. The site of -the Neville Chantry in the south aisle of the nave still contains -sufficient remains<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_125">{125}</a></span> of the delicate and tasteful pattern to enable one -to judge what the design has been, and slight traces of colour are to be -found upon the arches of the arcade behind the altars in the Chapel of -the Nine Altars. It is probable, indeed, that the walls behind all the -altars in the church have been more or less decorated with painting, -though certainly it had not been used generally on the church itself.</p> - -<p>The point of junction between the Norman choir and the -thirteenth-century work which connects it with the eastern transept may -be placed at the fourth pier from the eastern tower arch on each side. -The arch of the triforium next these piers comes close up to them, -whereas in the corresponding piers to the west there is a space between -the arch and the pier. The same feature is to be seen in the triforium -arch, which is next to the piers of the tower arch, which have five -shafts, the others having only three. It is very probable that the piers -at the entrance of the apse supported a larger transverse arch than the -others, corresponding in this to the great tower arch, and that the -supporting piers had, like those at the entrance of the choir, five -shafts. These piers, the body of which forms a part of Carileph’s Norman -work, untouched where they face into the aisles, have been encased on -the choir face with very rich and tasteful decoration of about the -middle of the thirteenth century. Above, upon each side of the choir, is -a figure of an angel under a canopy, that on the south side holding a -crown in the left hand, the other having lost the uplifted hand and what -it once held. They are the only two left out of a numerous host of -statues once decorating the church, and their beauty makes the -destruction which has befallen the others the more to be regretted.</p> - -<p>After the Nine Altars was finished and the connecting part between it -and the choir completed, a new vault was put on to the choir, and the -whole of the original Norman vault was taken down. The reason for this -was almost certainly an artistic one: the sumptuously decorated vault of -the Nine Altars being of a pointed form, while the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_126">{126}</a></span> original plain vault -of the choir was semicircular, it would have been very difficult, if not -impossible, when the great transverse arch was taken down, to bring -these two forms into harmonious combination. It was replaced by one -which to a great extent in its mouldings and decoration corresponds with -that of the Nine Altars. This vault is in five compartments, and has -four richly moulded transverse arches in addition to the eastern arch of -the crossing. These arches are supported alternately on the main -vaulting-shafts, which rise from the floor, and on triple shafts, which -rise from the level of the triforium floor, and originally received the -diagonal ribs of the Norman vault. The diagonal ribs spring from the -outer shafts of the three semi-shafts and from the corresponding outer -shafts next to the main vaulting-shafts. The vault is quadripartite, but -in the eastern bay is an additional rib on each side—a quasi ridge-rib, -which runs north and south from the spandrils between the clerestory -arches, and unites at the intersection of the diagonal ribs. The -additional rib on the north side springs from a draped male seated -figure, on each side of which is a lacertine creature with its back to -the figure, and its head turned so that the mouth touches the hair, -while the tail curves towards the feet; that on the south side springs -from an angel. The wall ribs spring from shafts of Frosterley marble, -resting on inserted corbels or on the capitals of the Norman -vaulting-shafts. In the eastern angle of the eastern bay the wall rib on -each side springs from the head of a small canopy, which contains a -sculptured figure; that on the north side a demibishop blessing; that on -the south the upper half of a male figure.</p> - -<p>Whatever difficulty, however, there may have been in collecting the -necessary funds for the erection of this noble addition to the church of -Bishop William of St. Carileph, first projected by Bishop Poore, no -expense or pains has been spared in its being carried out to perfection, -and the vault of the Nine Altars and choir, the last part of this<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_127">{127}</a></span> great -work, with its enrichment of dog-tooth ornament of various and graceful -forms, and bosses of foliage and figure subjects, fitly completes the -building in a style no less beautiful and effective than the walls which -support it. It may be asserted without fear of contradiction that no -more effective or majestic vault crowns any church in our country.</p> - -<p>The cloister occupies a considerable space of ground left open at the -centre, where the lavatory was placed, and was enclosed on the north -side by the church, and on the other sides by those various structures -which had relation to the household economy of the monastery and to its -domestic and political life. Around it, in the dormitory and refectory, -the monks slept, lived, and ate. They studied in the library and in the -small wooden chambers—carells, as they were called—one of which was -placed in front of each compartment of the windows of the north alley, -which, like the east one, was glazed, the latter containing in its -windows the history of St. Cuthbert. In the west alley the novices had -their school, where they were taught by the master of the novices, "one -of the oldest monks that was learned," who had opposite to them "a -pretty seat of wainscot, adjoining to the south side of the treasury -door."</p> - -<p>In the treasury, situated at the north end of the crypt under the -dormitory, and which is still divided by its ancient iron grating, were -kept the title-deeds and other muniments of the church, in themselves no -small treasure. At the other end of the same crypt was the common house, -the only place where there was a fire for ordinary use, and which was -frequented by the monks as their room for converse and recreation, and -which had in connection with it a garden and a bowling alley.</p> - -<p>In the chapter-house on the east side the monks met the Prior between -five and six o’clock "every night there to remain in prayer and -devotion" during that time. Here also at other times they assembled in -chapter to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_128">{128}</a></span> regulate all matters connected with the life within the -body, and to order the many transactions which as a great corporation -the convent necessarily had with the world without. Close by, on the one -side of the chapter-house, out of which it opened, was the prison, where -for minor offences a monk was confined; and on the other side was the -passage through which his body was conveyed to his last home in the -cemetery beyond.</p> - -<p>Opening out of the dormitory to the east, at its south end, where a -modern doorway has replaced the earlier one, is a room which was called -by the monks "the loft," and which forms, in connection with the -refectory, the south side of the cloister. It was the place where the -monks, with the Subprior presiding, ordinarily dined, having beneath it -what was once the cellar of the convent. Beyond this, to the east, was -the refectory, or frater-house, standing above the early crypt which has -already been described, where the Prior and monks dined together on -March 20—St. Cuthbert’s Day. Whatever it was before then, though -possibly the original building still remained, in part at least, -unaltered, it was entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1662-84), who -made it into the library, transferring the books from the old library -adjoining to the chapter-house, and filling it with the handsome and -commodious oak cases which now furnish it. Near to it, on the -south-west, is the kitchen of the monastery, now attached to the -deanery, an octagonal building which well deserves examination.</p> - -<p>Returning to the cloister, there may still be seen at the centre of the -garth what is left above ground of the lavatory. It was originally an -octagonal structure, the upper part being occupied as a dovecote. The -basin was begun in 1432, and completed the next year. The marble stones -of the basin, which still exists, were brought from -Eggleston-on-the-Tees, of the Abbot of which monastery they were bought. -The basin is not <i>in situ</i>, but has at some time been removed from its -original situation, "over<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_129">{129}</a></span> against the frater-house door," where the -foundations of a circular, or octagonal, building were discovered in -1903, and with them those of an earlier building, square in form, with -the substructure of an earlier basin.</p> - -<p>Before concluding the description of the church, it is necessary that a -few words should be said about the exterior. It has charms of its own -which, in spite of the disasters it has undergone in the shape of paring -down and refacing, still makes it one of our noblest churches.</p> - -<p>It must be admitted that, on account of the removal of some inches from -the surface of the stone,<a id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> and the consequent curtailment of -mouldings in their projections and hollows, there is a want of light and -shade which much detracts from its effect when seen near at hand.</p> - -<p>Indeed, the first impression made is perhaps one of disappointment. The -east end is especially flat and bald, and with its ill-designed modern -pinnacles forms but a poor clothing to the wondrous beauty which is to -be seen within the Nine Altars. But with all these drawbacks, when -viewed as a whole, and when distance has lent its compensating power, -the cathedral, its lofty central tower rising in harmonious combination -with the two western ones, stands sublime in its grand outline, and -fitly crowns the hill of Durham.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_130">{130}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="FINCHALE_PRIORY"></a>FINCHALE PRIORY<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By J. Tavenor-Perry</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>FTER the Romans had completed the subjection of the Brigantes they -constructed a great military road through the centre of their country -from Eburicum, which became the capital of the province, to the Tweed -and the country beyond. This road intersected the county of Durham from -north to south, and much of its course can still be traced from its -point of entry at Pierce Bridge, through Vinovium or Binchester in -Auckland, Epiacum or Lanchester, and Vindomora or Ebchester where it -passes over the Derwent into Northumberland. From Binchester a branch -road led by way of Chester-le-Street to the Pons Ælii or Newcastle, -which was continued by another branch to Jarrow and South Shields -passing along the south bank of the Tyne. This great military road and -the branch to Newcastle were cut through the dense forest which then -covered the whole of Durham and which continued through Saxon times to -form an almost impassable boundary, save by these roads, between the -closely associated provinces of Deira and Bernicia. The considerable -remains of the Roman towns still standing after the conquest of -Northumbria by the Angles were no doubt occupied by them as settlements; -and we find it stated in the life of St. Cuthbert that when he was -crossing the wild country of Durham and was like to be starved he found -succour from someone residing in the buildings still re<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_131">{131}</a></span>maining at -Chester-le-Street. Along the sides of the roads, between the towns, -would be the ruins, not then entirely destroyed, of villas and other -buildings which may have formed places for rest or refuge to those who -like the saint traversed these dangerous forest paths, from which may -have been derived the names of localities still in use although the -ruins after which they were called have long since been forgotten. The -monks who were conveying the body of St. Cuthbert to its final -resting-place were directed to take it to Dunholm, and an accident -revealed to them the obscure place which then bore that name; and when -St. Godric was directed to repair to Finchale and there build himself a -hermitage, he only discovered there was a place so called by a chance -conversation he had with a monk at Durham.</p> - -<p>The name of Finchale must have been well known in the ninth century if -we accept the common and reasonable belief that it was a place of -meeting of two or three important councils concerned with the affairs of -Northumbria. Its position in reference to the great road passing to the -South, its accessibility to the neighbouring town of Chester-le-Street -only three or four miles distant, and its comparative seclusion in the -great surrounding forest made it particularly suitable for such -meetings, which were held, as Bishop Stubbs says in his <i>Constitutional -History</i>, generally on the confines of states whence those assembled -might easily retire at nightfall to safer places. The councils held in -Northumbria during the latter part of the eighth century met at a time -when the country was not only disturbed by internal troubles, but -already threatened by the Danish pirates along the coast; and the forest -depths of Durham were safer for such meetings than the more open lands -of Northumberland or Yorkshire. The affix of "hale," the Saxon "hal," -signifies the existence of a hall or some building, perhaps the remains -of a Roman villa, which would have served as a temporary shelter for the -members of a council, of which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_132">{132}</a></span> all traces have long since disappeared; -but, taking all the circumstances together, we may fairly assume that -Finchale was the place in which these Northumbrian councils met, and the -name still lingered in the locality when St. Godric established himself -within its glades on the banks of the rushing Wear.</p> - -<p>This Godric, whose name is indissolubly associated with Finchale Priory, -although he was in no sense the founder of it, was as selfish and dirty -an old anchorite as ever attained the brevet rank of sainthood. Born -about 1065, the first thirty years of his life were spent as a pedlar -and sailor, during which he travelled far and wide, and met with many -adventures; and the remainder he spent in pilgrimages or a hermit-life -of penance and prayer. The <i>Dictionary of National Biography</i> gives a -very complete history of him, compiled from all available sources, the -most important being the MS. life by his contemporary Nicholas of -Durham. While he was leading the roving life of a pedlar he was nearly -drowned in trying to catch a porpoise, and afterwards made a pilgrimage -to Rome, presumably in thankfulness for his rescue. But the time was -unfortunate, for it appears to have been about 1086, when Gregory VII., -Hildebrand, had just died in exile, when the Anti-Pope Clement III. was -in possession of the Vatican, while the newly elected Pope Victor III. -was afraid to enter Rome, which then lay sunk in the most frightful -anarchy. The spectacle he beheld could scarcely then have induced him to -accept a religious vocation; and we find that for sixteen years -afterwards he led a seafaring life, trading between England, Scotland, -Flanders and Denmark, presently going so far afield as the Holy Land, -where the Chronicler’s description of him as "Gudericus pirata de regno -Angliae" sufficiently indicates the character of his occupation. -Returning thence, he paid a visit to the shrine of St. James of -Compostella; and when he reached home he accepted a menial position in -the house of a countryman, which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_133">{133}</a></span> suggests that he had not made much -money by his ventures. But with a restless spirit on him he went two -more pilgrimages to Rome, and the second time he took his mother with -him carrying her, it is said, on his shoulders where the way was -difficult. It was on this journey that he was accompanied by a lady of -wondrous beauty, whom he met on his way in London, who left him there -again on his return, and who nightly washed his feet; a story which -perhaps grew out of the custom of noble ladies, and which became more -common later on, of washing the feet of pilgrims in penance for some -special sin, in the manner described by Charles Reade in <i>The Cloister -and the Hearth</i>. On his return, somewhere about 1104, he settled for a -time at Carlisle, and then went to share his cell with a hermit named -Aelrice, by Wolsingham, and perhaps learn the lessons which were to -guide him in his future life. After a stay here of only seventeen months -the hermit died, and directed, he believed, by St. Cuthbert, Godric went -again on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, after which he was instructed to -return and take up his residence at Finchale. Not knowing the locality -by name he returned to Durham where he resided for some time until a -chance conversation disclosed the whereabouts of the place.</p> - -<p>When he at length retired to Finchale he seems to have found there the -remains of some ancient building, perhaps of a Roman villa, which may -have given its name to the place, and which may not only have formed a -sufficient residence for the hermit but for the other members of his -family who came to reside with him. The site of this dwelling was a -little nearer to Durham than is the present Priory, and the lands around -were a hunting-ground (the villa may have been a hunting-lodge) -belonging to Bishop Ralph Flambard who gave Godric permission to settle -here, so that possession must have been taken before 1128, the date of -the Bishop’s death. Adjoining to this residence he seems to have built -a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_134">{134}</a></span> wooden chapel which was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and about -twenty years after he built another of stone which was consecrated by -Bishop William de St. Barbara, dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre and St. -John Baptist, and regularly served by a priest from Durham. As well as -the many self-imposed mortifications he endured, he was much troubled by -the serpents with which the place abounded, but which, at his command, -departed; but if we may believe the equally veracious story of "the -loathly worm of Lambton," a witch as well as a saint had a hand in that -achievement.</p> - -<p>Godric, who was bedridden with rheumatism, the result of his senile -excesses, for eight years before his death, died in 1170, during the -episcopacy of Bishop Hugh de Puiset, or Pudsey, who appears to have -personally interested himself in the Finchale oratory; and under his -directions two monks from the Durham convent, named Henry and Reginald, -took up their residence in the place. In 1180 Pudsey confirmed the -priory of Durham in their possession of Finchale and added lands and -other benefactions to those already granted by Flambard; and thus no -doubt the attention of his son Henry was drawn to the place.</p> - -<p>Henry de Pudsey, who may be regarded as the founder of Finchale, was -Bishop Pudsey’s eldest illegitimate son, and must have been born some -long time before his father succeeded to the see as the Bishop had other -children younger than Henry. His mother was Adelaide de Percy from whom -he appears to have inherited a good deal of land in Craven, as well as -the manors of Wingate and Haswell, with which he afterwards endowed -Finchale. At some period not long before the death of Godric he seems to -have been engaged in founding a small establishment for Austen Canons at -a place called Bakstanford not far from Neville’s Cross to which the -monks of Durham seem to have objected as an intrusion of a foreign order -within their immediate sphere of influence. Whether it was in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_135">{135}</a></span> -consequence of their protests or at the wish of his father is uncertain, -but he suspended his operations and transferred his endowments to -Finchale; and there he erected new monastic buildings for the -accommodation of a colony of Benedictines from Durham who, under Thomas -the Sacrist as Prior, took possession of the convent in 1196, a year -after the death of Bishop Pudsey. It was apparently the intention also -of Henry to rebuild Godric’s church in a more suitable manner, but in -1198 he became involved in some political troubles and went crusading in -1201 from which he did not return until 1212; and he left the rebuilding -of the church to be carried out by the community.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_018" style="width: 276px;"> -<a href="images/i_135.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_135.jpg" width="276" height="298" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Piscina in Choir.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The building of a new church seems to have been taken in hand in 1242, a -year memorable in the annals of Durham Cathedral as the one which saw -the beginning of the great eastern transept of the "Nine Altars," under -the auspices of Prior Thomas of Melsamby, of whom Canon Greenwell says: -"He was one of the greatest men who have sat in the prior’s chair at -Durham." The subservient position which Finchale held to the Durham -convent necessitated<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_136">{136}</a></span> the assent of its Prior to so important an -undertaking; and it is not improbable that he may have pointed out the -necessity of the work and that his architect, Richard de Farnham, was -responsible for the design. Although of but modest dimensions for a -priory church, and but little longer and wider than the chapel which the -Brus family had recently built near by at Hartlepool, it was still on -too ambitious a scale for the limited resources of the convent; and the -work dragged on for a number of years, and was never completed in its -entirety. Its chief internal dimensions were—total length of nave and -choir 194 feet and of the transepts 99 feet; the widths of the nave and -choir were 23 feet and of the transepts 21 feet, while the width across -the unbuilt aisles would have been 52 feet. But the aisles would seem -never to have been finished, and though Mackensie Walcot pathetically -says that "it was the hand of the monk which pulled down the chapel of -the transept and the aisles of the choir and nave" it seems more than -likely that they were never begun, and that the idea was abandoned for -lack of funds soon after the nave and choir arcades had been completed. -It is probable that the choir only was roofed in in a temporary manner, -and that the nave and perhaps the transepts as well were not enclosed -until the works were seriously resumed in the next century. The wars -with Scotland caused much trouble within the county of Durham, and -doubtless affected the revenues of the priory, although there is nothing -to show that the monks were disturbed in any way by the invaders; but -twice the Scotch armies appeared upon the Wear, first under the Douglas -just before the treaty of Northampton made in 1328, and again in 1346 -when they were defeated at the Battle of Neville’s Cross within sight of -the cathedral.</p> - -<p>All works were suspended at Durham as well as at Finchale for the same -reasons, but with the return of peace and under the energetic sway of -Prior John Fossor they were resumed; and no doubt under his direct<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_137">{137}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_019" style="width: 479px;"> -<a href="images/i_137.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_137.jpg" width="479" height="618" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Choir.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">influence and perhaps with his assistance the completion of the church -at Finchale was undertaken. The account rolls of the priory from 1348 -begin to mention large quantities of material bought for the works and -money expended upon labour until 1372 when we may consider the fabric of -the church was finished. Instead of building the aisles as originally -intended, they filled up the moulded<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_138">{138}</a></span> arches of the arcades with walling -in which they inserted traceried windows; and they seemed to have roofed -in the buildings at a level but little above the top of the arches -without any clerestory but sufficiently high to clear the great arches -of the crossing. Whether the crossing was vaulted is not quite certain, -but some stones found among the ruins seem to indicate remains of groin -ribs, and it was raised as a low tower, and covered in all probability -with a squat, leaded spire such as those which once stood on the western -towers of the cathedral. The windows which had their heads filled in -with reticulated tracery were, with those of Easington Church and those -inserted in the cathedral by Prior Fossor, among the most important -Decorated work in the county. The east end of the choir had originally -three lancet windows, but either at this time or later a large traceried -window was inserted in their place, the cost of reglazing which appears -in the accounts for 1488. A reredos to the high-altar was erected about -1376 during the period when the great Neville screen was in course of -construction in the cathedral. The exact position it occupied in the -choir is not now evident, as the position of the original double piscina -(see p. 135) and the sedilia left but little room for such an erection, -and it seems to have involved some alteration in the arrangements of the -east end. It is clear from existing remains that it was originally -intended to build a chapel on the east side of the north transept and -possibly a corresponding one to the south transept, the former with an -altar dedicated to St. Godric and the latter to the Blessed Virgin, but -these chapels were abandoned at the completion; the whole south transept -became the Lady Chapel, and it has been suggested that the shrine of St. -Godric was removed to the extreme east end of the choir, from which it -was cut off by the new reredos, in which case another piscina which has -disappeared must have been made for the service of the high-altar. The -ancient sedilia of which there were three were cut into and reduced to -two when the large traceried<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_139">{139}</a></span> window was inserted in the south wall of -the choir, and our illustration (see p. 137) shows not only this -alteration but what is supposed to have been the base of the reredos.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_020" style="width: 733px;"> -<a href="images/i_139.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_139.jpg" width="733" height="473" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Church from the North-west.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_140">{140}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_021" style="width: 484px;"> -<a href="images/i_140.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_140.jpg" width="484" height="680" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Plan of the Ruins of Finchale Priory.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The arches, which had been left open on the eastern face of the -transepts, were filled in in the same manner as the nave arcades but -with two-light windows in the walling except in the case of the south -transept where there is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_141">{141}</a></span> five-light window, with the heads uncusped, -beneath which was the altar of the Blessed Virgin. In 1469 sixty -shillings was paid for glazing this window. The west walls of the -transepts contain the only original windows left complete, the south -transept having a short lancet which looked over the cloister roof, and -the north transept has two narrow and lofty lancets. The lancets at the -north end of the transept were doubtless removed for a traceried window -as in the choir; but the triplets of the west front were left -undisturbed, and their remains and the beautifully simple west front, -together with the lancets of the transepts, are shown in our -illustration (see p. 139).</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_022" style="width: 482px;"> -<a href="images/i_141.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_141.jpg" width="482" height="495" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Front of the Chapter House.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_142">{142}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_023" style="width: 475px;"> -<a href="images/i_142.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_142.jpg" width="475" height="617" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Crypt under Refectory.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The conventual buildings were all placed on the south side of the church -and their arrangement, so far as they exist at the present time, is -shown on the general plan (see p. 140). They were to a great extent -erected at the same time as the church, that is during the thirteenth -century, but were far from completed, and the account rolls show that -they were not finished before the latter half<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_143">{143}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_024" style="width: 734px;"> -<a href="images/i_143.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_143.jpg" width="734" height="488" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Prior’s Lodging.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of the fifteenth century; but it is quite possible that some of the -buildings erected by Henry de Pudsey continued in use until the new ones -were ready for occupation. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_144">{144}</a></span> chapter-house adjoins the south transept -and still retains its front over which one of the dormitory windows can -yet be seen (see p. 141). To the south of the cloister are considerable -remains of the refectory, raised, as at Durham, above a vaulted basement -(see p. 142); it was lighted by a fine range of lancet windows on either -side, and had a fireplace at the west end, and over it was another -chamber the use of which is not apparent. By the west front of the -church a guest-house for the poorer travellers was erected about 1464 in -two storeys, the lower one containing an oven; but the superior guests -were entertained in the Prior’s lodging. Although surrounded by earlier -buildings, the cloister was not completed until the second building -epoch, the north walk occupying the site of the proposed south aisle of -the nave, and the original doorway which had been built to be the south -door of the church now crosses the east walk at the north end.</p> - -<p>The Prior’s lodgings (see p. 143) form an important and picturesque -group of buildings standing by themselves to the south-east of the -church, much in the same position as those of Durham. The vaulted -basement under the Prior’s hall and most of the substructure may be the -earliest part of the conventual buildings remaining, and earlier in date -than the church, though much of the upper storey which contains the -hall, camera and chapel belong to the subsequent periods. The low -building at the west end containing a fireplace, which has been -described as the Prior’s kitchen, seems to be the building which, -according to the <i>Gentleman’s Magazine</i> for 1836, was the "spacious -entertainment room" which Mr. Prebendary Spence erected for the use of -the picnic parties which have in modern times pervaded the ruins. To the -north of the Prior’s lodging, separated from it only in the basement -story, is the building mentioned in the account rolls for 1460 under the -name of the "Douglestour." How it came by this name is uncertain, but as -the lower part of the building was standing in 1328 when Douglas and his -Scots made<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_145">{145}</a></span> their raid across Northumberland to the banks of the Wear, -it may have gained it through some association with him. The upper -storey of the tower formed the Prior’s camera and had at the north end -an embayed window which commanded a charming prospect of the river and -the Cocken woods beyond. St. Godric was reputed to be the special patron -of women, and this encorbelled window-base was known by them as the -"wishing-chair"; but whatever was its charm, the spell was broken when -the monks left the convent at the Reformation.</p> - -<p>At the Dissolution, as its income was less than £200 per annum, the -Priory was treated as one of the lesser monasteries and suppressed in -1536, when the site was granted to the Bishop of Durham, and the -buildings were left neglected; but their ruin was hastened by being -treated as a stone-quarry. It does not appear that the Priory was ever -purposely damaged otherwise, and it remains, after three centuries of -neglect, a more perfect and picturesque ruin than many of higher -importance and more beautiful architecture.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_146">{146}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="MONKWEARMOUTH_AND_JARROW"></a>MONKWEARMOUTH AND JARROW<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By the Rev. D. S. Boutflower, M.A.</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>T is almost impossible for the student of history to dissociate the two -names. In their earliest origin, in the ups and downs of their long -existence, and almost, if not quite, in their present conditions, the -sister churches have met with one and the same experience. Their -foundations were laid within the short period of ten years; they have -arisen and decayed and revived (and that more than once) almost -simultaneously. They have shared together honour and neglect, wealth and -poverty. In all things and at all times the supreme desire of their -great founder has been fulfilled, and Monkwearmouth and Jarrow have been -one. Planted long ago as outposts of religious culture brought oversea -to the mouths of the Wear and the Tyne, the Churches of St. Peter and -St. Paul are now the centres of populous districts. Like other churches -around them, they have their own busy church life; but, unlike to and -above the rest, these two stand as witnesses of the antiquity and -continuity of the Christian faith in England. The churches where Bede -worshipped are still, at least in part, the churches of the twentieth -century. The Gospels which he expounded are heard at their Communion -services to-day.</p> - -<p>Much of their history must be sought for and read in the buildings -themselves. The first thing they will tell us is that they belong to a -very early period of Saxon art. We have other evidence to assure us that -these were</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_025" style="width: 568px;"> -<a href="images/i_146fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_146fp.jpg" width="568" height="842" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Monkwearmouth Church.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_147">{147}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">among the first stone churches in England, and to tell how masons were -brought from the Continent to erect them. The singular height of the -church at Monkwearmouth would lead us to the same conclusion. They were -thus churches of quite a peculiar type, a type destined to undergo many -modifications in later times. In Monkwearmouth and Jarrow you are face -to face with the earliest form of English ecclesiastical architecture.</p> - -<p>We have no need to ask about the builders, or to wrangle over the date -of their foundation. There are darker and lighter periods in any -history; Monkwearmouth and Jarrow have, indeed, known much of both. But -the light shines clearly enough upon their early days. For Monkwearmouth -saw the birth and Jarrow the death of the patriarch of English -historians. Both places claim him as altogether their own. In the united -convent of St. Peter and St. Paul he spent practically the whole of his -life. Like all great men, he said little about himself; but he has much -to tell us about his twofold home. We turn gladly enough to the writings -of Bede, and specially to his Lives of the Abbots. We find ourselves at -once in the presence of one who knew how to observe and to describe, to -admire but never to condemn; one who loved to dwell upon the beautiful -in the characters and works of men; a conscientious man withal, who -sought out and told the truth. It is he that relates to us how -Monkwearmouth and Jarrow grew.</p> - -<p>It was not fifty years since the Christian faith had been first taught -to the Northumbrians, and less than forty since its permanent -establishment by the preaching of the gentle Aidan, when there came back -to his native kingdom of Northumbria a man of noble birth and cultured -training, Biscop, called Benedict. He had wealth and interest at his -command, and, above all things, a fervent zeal concentrated upon a -definite purpose. It was an age that had recently witnessed a revival of -monasticism; the life of contemplation had led on to study; orthodoxy<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_148">{148}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft" id="ill_026" style="width: 179px;"> -<a href="images/i_148.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_148.jpg" width="179" height="300" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Old Stone at Monkwearmouth.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">was the aim of trained thinkers; emotional minds dwelt on the -devotedness of the saintly life. Biscop himself was a traveller and a -student; he desired to found his own monastery, and to bring to it -treasures from foreign lands. His relative, King Ecgfrid, granted him -for this purpose an estate at the mouth of the Wear (<small>A.D.</small> 672). There he -built the Church of St. Peter, of which the western wall and porch still -remain. He brought with him (as we have seen) masons, and also glaziers, -who restored to England a science that had long been lost. The building -was quite peculiar in its dimensions—some 60 feet long, 30 high, and 20 -broad. The singular proportions of Monkwearmouth Church, which have long -puzzled antiquaries, appear to be explained by a sermon in the now -printed works of Bede, and possibly preached in the church itself on -some anniversary of its dedication. They correspond with those of -Solomon’s Temple, the units in this last case being cubits. There was a -truly mathematical love of numbers in the mind of Bede, and he is -evidently pleased to explain how the three dimensions above mentioned -set forth in allegory the three Christian virtues of faith, hope, and -charity. The windows were small, and set high in the walls of the -building. You may see two of them, their splays adorned with baluster -shafts, in the western wall of the church. The south wall was adorned -with paintings representing scenes from the Gospel of St. John; a series -of pictures illustrating the Apocalypse occupied the northern wall. The -roof was adorned with portraits of the Virgin and of the Twelve -Apostles; the presumption is that it was in the form of a flat ceiling. -The whole arrangement of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_149">{149}</a></span> the building thus gave fair scope for light, -shelter, and decoration.</p> - -<p>There was a second church soon afterwards erected at Monkwearmouth, -dedicated to St. Mary. There were also dining-rooms and porches and -sleeping apartments, in connection with the last of which there was an -oratory dedicated to St. Lawrence. Where these other buildings lay is -uncertain. Tradition says that they were to the west of the present -church. St. Mary’s Church was probably very much in this direction. In -the fourteenth century "the old kirk" was used as a granary.</p> - -<p>The house at Monkwearmouth grew and prospered, a home of arts and -science and religion. There Bede began to acquire his wonderful -knowledge, and John the Chanter founded his great school of music. Seven -years after its foundation (<small>A.D.</small> 681) expansion became a necessity, and -a new grant of land was obtained, this time at Jarrow, on the south bank -of the Tyne. Seventeen persons, clerical and lay, were sent thither, -their leader being Ceolfrid, to whose care Bede, already for two years -an inmate of the older monastery, was committed. Soon after this event -Biscop departed on his last visit to Rome, leaving his stalwart kinsman -Eosterwini to rule at Monkwearmouth. He was absent for more than three -years, an eventful time, during which both houses suffered grievously -from a visitation of the plague. Eosterwini was its most notable victim, -whilst at Jarrow nearly the whole convent was stricken down. At that -place, as an anonymous writer informs us, only Ceolfrid and one boy, -obviously Bede, were left to chant the daily services. The above facts -will explain the delay in the consecration of the great church at -Jarrow, which, according to a contemporary inscription still preserved, -was not dedicated till the fourth year of Ceolfrid’s presidency.</p> - -<p>Of this church only some stones now remain. A smaller church had, -however, been first built and consecrated, and it is this which forms -the chancel of Jarrow<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_150">{150}</a></span> Church to-day. Its dimensions do not suggest any -special meaning. Twenty-eight feet to the west of it, and lying -precisely in the same right line, stood at one time a fabric precisely -similar to that of St. Peter’s, Monkwearmouth, the same, apparently, in -length and breadth and height, and lighted by windows of the same type -and in the same position. Annexed to it on the north and south were a -number of apartments, undoubtedly to be identified with the <i>porches</i> in -Bede’s account of Monkwearmouth, chambers opening by round-headed arches -into the church itself. The arches on the north side, and vestiges of -three rooms on the south, remained as late as the year 1769. Probably -one such porch as this stood at the eastern end of the building; this we -know was the case at Monkwearmouth. These apartments, walled off as they -were from each other, would be used for prayer and study, and sometimes -as places of sepulture. They were probably constructed in imitation of -the chambers round Solomon’s temple.</p> - -<p>This, then, appears to have been the church which it took so long to -complete, and in this building was set up the dedication stone above -mentioned. It was erected and consecrated under the auspices of King -Aldfrid (brother and successor to Ecgfrid), and the Abbot Ceolfrid. -Biscop himself was still abroad, but soon afterwards returned to -England, bringing with him many books and pictures, one series of which, -depicting the events of our Lord’s life, was ranged as a crown round the -Church of St. Mary in the greater monastery; another, representing the -Gospel story by type and antitype, adorned the monastery and Church of -St. Paul. Biscop’s last homecoming had its sorrows. He found Eosterwini -dead, and his successor Sigfrid slowly dying of consumption. Then there -came to himself a stroke of paralysis. Very touching is the story told -us of the last days of the two Abbots. The greater man feels the greater -anxiety. His much-prized library is not to be dispersed, but before all -things the unity of the double foundation is to be<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_151">{151}</a></span> maintained. Before -his end comes he appoints Ceolfrid to govern the united monastery of St. -Peter and St. Paul.</p> - -<p>The narrative continues till the year 716, when the aged Ceolfrid -resigned his charge, and departed to die, as he hoped, at Rome. But this -was not to be. His last moments were spent at Langres, near Lyons. But -one great work of Northumbrian art passed on by other hands to -Italy—the splendid manuscript of the Vulgate, now known as the Codex -Amiantinus, and preserved in the Medicean Library at Florence.</p> - -<p>Bede himself lived on in his old home till the year 735. The story of -his end is too well known to need repetition here. Before his death -Northumbria had fallen from its former glory. A period of darkness -supervenes, broken here and there by the lurid light of Danish -invasions. Yet the churches of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow lasted on, -sacked, it might be, burned and desolated, but still saved from total -destruction.</p> - -<p>The period of depression that followed the golden days of the twin -monasteries has left us but scanty memorials of their history. We begin -to hear of times of insecurity, of attacks made upon the eastern coast -of England by Danish pirates. The situations of the two churches would, -under these circumstances, be distinctly against them. Jarrow is to this -day conspicuous; it is probably less well known that Monkwearmouth -Church stood for centuries upon the top of a hill. This is shown quite -clearly in the engraving of the year 1785. The sea rovers would take -their own survey of the coast and its harbours, and would make for any -place that offered promise of pillage. There is much good and rich land -between the Wear and the Tyne, and the monks of early days were -assiduous cultivators. The country of Wilfrid and Biscop and Bede was no -uncivilized or neglected part of the world. To a pagan race there would -be no impediment in the form of religious scruples. The wealth of the -Church would but invite the spoilers to their prey.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_152">{152}</a></span></p> - -<p>And so the Danes came first to Northern England, to begin with, somewhat -tentatively, in the year 793, harrying the island of Lindisfarne, -plundering its monastery, and burning the church. The next year their -ships put into the Tyne. On the hill overlooking the slake, just where -that river receives its tributary the Don, stood the monastery of -Jarrow, Egfrid’s Port lying immediately below it. Here they landed, and -took such booty as they found. But the people of the neighbourhood -rallied, and drove back the invaders to their ships. Few of them made -good their escape, for the wind was against them. The storm came up into -the river, and the fugitives were driven to the shore, where they and -their chieftain, Ragner Lodbrog, met with the vengeance they deserved.</p> - -<p>It is quite clear that the lesson thus given was not forgotten. We hear -no more of Danish invasions for well on to sixty years. When they -recommenced, they were directed elsewhere. In the year 851 the Danes -landed in Sheppey, and this time they came to stay. The chroniclers have -much to say about <i>the Army</i>; but it was not till the year 875 that it -marched into Northern England, and then probably not much beyond York; -it moved south two years later. But meanwhile there had no doubt been -many a raid upon the settlements on the coast. The year 866 was marked -by one of the most serious of these. At that date Hingvar and Hubba -burned the church of Monkwearmouth. The traces of this conflagration are -still distinctly perceptible. Again in the year 875 the fleet of Halfdan -was in the Tyne. Contemporaneously with this event took place the flight -from Lindisfarne, and the commencement of the journeyings of the body of -St. Cuthbert.</p> - -<p>How the Danish power was driven back by Alfred, how his wise policy -reclaimed the half of his kingdom, is a well-known part of our national -history. The final triumph was not so much one of war as of peace. The -wisdom of a very great King effected much; the growing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_153">{153}</a></span> strength of -recovering Christianity did the rest. Never did any ruler so effectually -combine the forces of secular and spiritual power, or hold them more -truly in balance and co-operation. The invaders became settlers, and -have left this part of their history in the names of their new homes. -This is especially true of Lincolnshire; then, hardly less decidedly, of -York. But north of the Tees the English population simply retained lands -which they had never ceased to occupy. Danish place-names in the county -of Durham are few and far between.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="ill_027" style="width: 237px;"> -<a href="images/i_153.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_153.jpg" width="237" height="241" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Ornamental Stonework, Monkwearmouth Church.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>This is so much evidence—and it is worth something—in favour of the -supposition that the sister churches of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow were -not left to permanent ruin. The population of the neighbourhood was, and -remained, English, and would no doubt be warmly attached to the ancient -sanctuaries. Their hearts and minds would be as faithful to the sacred -memories of the past as were those of the wanderers who guarded the body -of St. Cuthbert. That there was no revolution in the history of this -particular district may be presumed from the silence which veils this -part of the story of their two great churches. The theory here advocated -appears to be further confirmed by the one incident recorded at this -period in connection with the church of Jarrow.</p> - -<p>The old faith in the potency of the relics of the saints remained -unshaken through all periods of sunshine or of gloom. Respect for the -past and for the good clings to the devoted Churchman of every age; it -may sometimes even be strong enough to overpower his moral principle. It -was so undoubtedly in the case of Ælfred, a monk of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_154">{154}</a></span> Durham in the early -part of the eleventh century. This man conceived himself to be divinely -commissioned to visit the sites of ancient monasteries and to gather -together the remains of departed martyrs and confessors. He was very -successful in his quest. Hexham and Melrose were laid under -contribution, and Jarrow was not likely to be forgotten. To it he paid -an annual visit on the anniversary of the death of Bede. At least once -he prolonged his stay for several days, fasting and praying in the -church. Then one morning he departed at a very early hour, and he -returned no more. What he had done may be inferred from the assurance -with which he stated in after-years that the remains of Bede were -resting in the grave of St. Cuthbert. From what we know of the man and -of the age there seems little room for dispute about the matter: it -appears, moreover, to have been corroborated at a later date by visual -evidence.</p> - -<p>The story is of interest to us mainly as bearing witness to the fact -that in the year 1022 the church of Jarrow remained a popular centre of -worship. In the case of Monkwearmouth history and legend alike fail us; -we must judge for ourselves. The tower of the church was evidently built -at two distinct periods. The porch and the parvise over it appear to -belong to the age of the founder. They also show traces of the fires of -the Danes. This is not the case with the superstructure. Incontestably -of Saxon work, it belongs to the same period which saw the erection of -at least four church towers in the valley of the Tyne. As it exhibits no -traces of the burning of the year 866, its date and theirs must be -looked for somewhere in the next two centuries. The reign of the -Northumbrian Guthred (<small>A.D.</small> 884-894) has been ascertained to be a period -when relations between Church and State were more than ordinarily -friendly. At this time the tower of Monkwearmouth Church may well have -been completed. It can hardly have been built at a much later date, for -there is other and different work in the</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_028" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_154fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_154fp.jpg" width="600" height="413" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Jarrow Church.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_155">{155}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">same church which appears to belong to the age before the Conquest. The -modern arch between nave and chancel rises on its south side from an -ancient substructure, of which one feature is the cushion moulding at -its base. There is something here begun by Anglo-Saxon masons, but -carried out apparently by Norman builders. It was possibly a work of the -reign of Edward the Confessor, and apparently implies some -contemporaneous reconstruction of the early porch or chancel.</p> - -<p>Subject, then, to the chances of time and of warfare, the churches of -Monkwearmouth and Jarrow still carried on their existence. The latter -was certainly in use at the date of the Conquest. This was a period of -trouble and disaster. Oswulf, the Earl of Northumberland, is displaced, -and soon after murders his successor. Gospatric next buys the earldom, -and forthwith rebels. The Conqueror marches northward in person, and -appoints Robert Cummin to the vacant office. He, too, is assassinated in -the city of Durham. This event is followed by the King’s return, and the -wholesale devastation of the lands north of York. Ethelwin the Bishop, -accompanied by his canons, flees northward with the body of St. -Cuthbert. They rest for a night in the church at Jarrow. Their pursuers -follow on their track and set the building on fire. Northumbria is -devastated by Norman and Scottish enemies at once; and for nine years -the land lies waste. During this period we may well believe that both -our churches stood unroofed and desolate; their walls, on the other -hand, certainly resisted the flames, and were preserved to be ere long -the home of a new band of settlers.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The Norman Conquest brought in its train a very distinct revival of -monasticism. This was part of the general movement in favour of order -and authority which then prevailed. It came, no doubt, originally from -Rome. It was, in fact, the characteristic of Rome from very early days. -It made itself felt in the eleventh century by the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_156">{156}</a></span> growth of the -military spirit, and later on by the gradual development of law. It -affected more immediately the religious side of national life. Clerical -celibacy began to be enforced, and the foundation of monasteries was -encouraged. The foreigners took the lead in this matter, amongst them -Walcher of Lorraine, Bishop of Durham. Hearing of a small party of -missionary monks who had just arrived at Monkchester (now Newcastle), he -made haste to invite them to settle in his own territory at Jarrow. We -are told that he gave them the churches there (the plural number is -significant). They were soon joined by others who had followed them from -the South—the men of the North stood aloof; they had at this time good -reason to be suspicious of Southern visitors. The numbers of the monks -grew, and their patron enlarged their estate to meet their increased -needs. Besides a large property in land on both sides of the Tyne, they -received a grant of the church of Monkwearmouth. Briers and trees were -standing within its walls; much the same thing was probably true of -Jarrow. But they set to work with energy to repair and to acquire and to -establish.</p> - -<p>What they did at Monkwearmouth we are not able to say. Probably they -extended the eastern porch into the form of a chancel. Two centuries -later that chancel attained its present peculiar form—long and -narrow—as became the custom in this part of England; it is also -decidedly lofty, being apparently intended thus to correspond with the -ancient nave. Undoubtedly respect was from the first shown to those who -designed the original church. The same right sentiment may be observed -much more evidently in the case of Jarrow, with which as their first and -more important possession Bishop Walcher’s monks proceeded to deal at -once.</p> - -<p>We have mentioned above the existence of two churches at Jarrow, and -have observed that there exists written corroboration of this. The -smaller church which stood to the east is the chancel of the present -building.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_157">{157}</a></span> Twenty-eight feet to the west of it was the termination of -the nave or main block of the western church, built precisely on the -quite mathematical lines of the elder fabric at Monkwearmouth. We may -presume of this building what we know to have been the case at St. -Peter’s, that there was a porch behind the altar, a building, that is to -say, with three walls and one open side. Such a building still exists in -the chancel of the Saxon church at Escomb, near Bishop Auckland. -Assuming that the porch at Jarrow was like that at Escomb, square, and -of proportionately larger dimensions, there would be a space of some -thirteen feet intervening between it and the eastern church. It was here -that the Norman builders would be disposed to erect their tower, and -here the tower was accordingly built, not foursquare after the Norman -model, but in an oblong form. The site occupies a rectangle of thirteen -by twenty-one feet. The lower stages of this structure are essentially -massive and very distinctly Norman in character. The highest storey, on -the other hand, less well executed as some think, has its own -ornateness; it was probably erected in the succeeding generation. If so, -we understand the better the set-back of its northern and southern -sides; the architect employed had, no doubt, his own opinion to the -effect that the tower ought to have been square.</p> - -<div class="figright" id="ill_029" style="width: 181px;"> -<a href="images/i_157.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_157.jpg" width="181" height="324" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Early English Snakes, Monkwearmouth Church.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The principle adopted by Bishop Walcher’s monks appears to have been -that of reverent adaptation to immediate needs. They wished to repair -and to add, but not to destroy. Had their stay at their new home been -prolonged, the case would in time have been altered.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_158">{158}</a></span> Large medieval -buildings would have taken the place of the more primitive original -structures. But their sojourn at Jarrow lasted for only eight years. In -the year 1083 Bishop William of St. Carileph transferred them to his -cathedral. The extruded canons were placed at Auckland and Darlington, -and the Evesham Benedictines occupied the mother-church of the diocese.</p> - -<p>It was all done in haste. It was repented of, no doubt, at leisure. In -the enthusiasm of the moment Bishop William founded the one and only -abbey in the Bishopric of Durham. His successors, we may well believe, -deplored what was politically and ecclesiastically a great mistake. But -what was done could not be undone by anything less than a revolution. -The Abbey of Durham grew and was strong. The magnificence of its -buildings tells of the wealth of the builders. The Durham Household Book -speaks of the stir and pomp and cheerfulness of its daily life. -Meanwhile, the two more ancient sanctuaries were reduced to the -insignificant condition of Cells. They were left with their old estates, -each under the rule of a master, appointed or removed by the Prior of -Durham at his will. Each master had one monk with him for company, -sometimes two, and very rarely three. The masters appear to have taken -but little interest in the spiritual affairs of their churches. The -naves of these buildings were considered the property of the -parishioners, who executed repairs at their own cost; an ill-paid -stipendiary, called the chaplain or parish priest, discharged all -parochial duties. The church of Jarrow had its chapels at Wallsend, at -Shields, and at Westoe. The first named of these was left very much to -itself; the very altar-fees of the other chapels, as well as those of -the churches, were the perquisite of the master, while the services of -the chaplain were remunerated at very much the same rate as those of the -monastery barber.</p> - -<p>The result as regards the fabrics was much what might have been -expected. The nave at Monkwearmouth was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_159">{159}</a></span> left to itself; that at Jarrow -was at some time extended so as to include the ground occupied by its -eastern porch. The other porches or chapels that once flanked this -building may have served for a while as parts of the parish church; then -they fell one after another by a lingering process of decay. On the -other hand, Monkwearmouth Church was in course of time enlarged; a north -aisle was added in the thirteenth century; its very pleasing doorway has -been fortunately preserved. About the same time two rather large windows -were set to lighten the east end of the nave of Jarrow.</p> - -<p>The case was different with the conventual part of the two churches. At -Monkwearmouth, as we have seen, the choir was made long and lofty. Two -Decorated windows were placed on its southern side; a third, similar to -the others, stood in the north wall, all traces of which seem to have -been destroyed in quite recent times. The date of these windows is fixed -by an entry in the account rolls under the year 1347. A little later an -east window of five lights was erected; it has been reproduced from its -fragments, and is not without merit. The design at Monkwearmouth is, -however, far better than the workmanship.</p> - -<p>In the case of Jarrow it was not necessary to find a new chancel; the -old eastern church was quite sufficiently roomy. What was required was -light, and this was provided first by a north-east window and an east -window, each of three lights, and afterwards by two additional windows -of three lights, one on each side of the western end of the chancel. The -latest of these was inserted in the year 1350.</p> - -<p>The two houses conducted their financial affairs in an easy way. They -wanted enough to live upon, but had no further ambitions. They did not -develop their estates, and were careless as to their fisheries. Jarrow -was the richer house, but Monkwearmouth was reckoned the healthier; -thither came the monks of Durham to enjoy<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_160">{160}</a></span> the bracing air. Once, at any -rate, Jarrow had to contribute to their maintenance. The usual donations -were made—subscriptions to subsidies and to the needs of scholars at -Oxford. A singular entry is often repeated in the rolls—the cost of -wine for the parishioners’ Communion.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Such was the uneventful life of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth till the -revolution of 1536, which brought an end to the existence of the smaller -monasteries. These two were valued at £38 14s. 4d. and £26 9s. 9d. -respectively.</p> - -<p>The property of both the cells passed thenceforth into lay hands, and -the churches became poorer still. To Jarrow was preserved the meagre -endowment of ten marks; to Monkwearmouth two marks less. The former -church had, moreover, Easter offerings and a small parsonage. The -incumbents of both had, of course, an uncertain income from fees. No -attempt to mend matters was made till the commencement of the nineteenth -century.</p> - -<p>Before that period had arrived the neglected churches had at last fallen -quite into decay. The parishioners had had to do something; what they -did was to destroy the nave of Jarrow, and the southern (or Saxon) wall -of Monkwearmouth. These demolitions took place in 1782 and 1806 -respectively. The result of the alterations and rebuildings no doubt -commended itself to those then concerned with such matters. We find a -picture of the new Monkwearmouth Church accompanied with a note of much -satisfaction in a contemporary number of the <i>Gentleman’s Magazine</i>.</p> - -<p>Restorations followed in 1861 and 1873, but they could not give back the -past. What was spared has been treated with reverence. The west front of -Monkwearmouth still remains. The church, now apparently sunk into a -hollow, is surrounded by poor and crowded tenements, built upon ballast -brought from the Thames. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_161">{161}</a></span> medieval chancel is there, its restored -windows now filled with Kempe’s beautiful glass. The music of its -services is worthy of the church of John the Chanter. Only we regret the -loss of the Saxon Church as it once stood upon its hill overlooking -river and sea. Jarrow has been more fortunate; it still crowns the hill -above its wide slake—a landmark well known to all those who use the -waterways of the Tyne. It, too, has its points of interest, its Saxon -chancel and its Norman tower. Much, of course, is missing in both -places. But there is still more than enough to attract and to fascinate -the mind of the Englishman and the Christian, who looks back to the -glories of that good old time that gave to Northumbria and to the world -the life of the one man that was Venerable—the learning and the labours -of Bede.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_162">{162}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="THE_PARISH_CHURCHES_OF_DURHAM"></a>THE PARISH CHURCHES OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Wilfrid Leighton</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>RCHITECTURALLY, the parish churches of Durham are best described as of -the "homely order," and one may search the county in vain for an -oft-recurring and distinctive feature, such as the graceful spires of -Northamptonshire, or the splendid Perpendicular towers, which -distinguish so many of the churches of Somerset. In the country of -Benedict Biscop and the Venerable Bede it is natural that we should look -for other matters of interest than striking architecture, and -undoubtedly many of the churches carry evidence of a high antiquity, -though only perhaps a fragment of dog-tooth moulding breaking through -lath and plaster restoration of the eighteenth century.</p> - -<p>Two churches, Jarrow and Monkwearmouth, are no less interesting for the -Saxon remains which they contain than for their association with the -early Christian Fathers of the North. Both these churches date from the -latter part of the seventh century. At the time of their erection -Theodore of Tarsus, to whom the division of the country into parishes is -generally attributed, was Archbishop of Canterbury; but it would not at -this early date be correct to describe them as parish churches, for it -was not until the decay of the brotherhoods to which they were attached -that they ceased to be other than the chapels of their respective -monasteries.</p> - -<p>In another part of this volume full justice has been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_163">{163}</a></span> done to these -early churches, but some reference must be made here to the church of -Escomb, in the west of the county. It is perhaps of an equally early -date and a remarkably perfect example of a church of the period. Very -little is known of its early history, but after the Dissolution it was -regarded as a chapel-of-ease to St. Andrew’s, Auckland. In 1879 it had -fallen into disuse, a new church having been built at some distance. But -upon the "re-discovery" of the nature of the old building, in that year, -funds were at once raised for its repair.</p> - -<p>The church consists of a square chancel, a nave, and a porch as a later -addition. The church has undoubtedly been built with stones from the -Roman camp of Binchester, many of which show the diamond broaching. -Professor Baldwin Brown is of the opinion that the chancel arch, which -is the most striking feature of the interior, was removed bodily from -the camp and set up in pre-Conquest times in its present position.</p> - -<p>On the south side of the chancel there are two original windows, with -semicircular heads, cut out of single blocks, and jambs battering -inwards. There are two original windows on the north side with square -heads. The sills of these windows are thirteen feet from the floor -level, and another window in the west end is placed still higher. At -later dates the walls have been pierced with other windows, two in the -south wall of the nave, one in the west gable, one in the east end, and -one in the south wall of the chancel. Between the two original windows -on the south is a "Saxon" sundial. The original entrances were in the -north and south walls of the nave, and there is a later doorway in the -chancel. A fragment of an early cross is preserved in the church.</p> - -<p>Contemporary with these churches there existed at Hartlepool a monastic -house said by Bede to have been founded by Heiu, the first Northumbrian -nun, and subsequently extended by St. Hilda, before her transition to -Whitby in 657.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_164">{164}</a></span></p> - -<p>Although continued after this date, its history during the period of the -Danish invasion is lost. The present Church of St. Hilda is mentioned in -the confirmatory charter to Guisborough Priory of Bishop Pudsey in 1195, -and in those of several of his successors, and was most likely included -in the original grant with the churches of Hart and Stranton, of which -it was a dependent chapel. In 1308 Bishop Bek, as a reward for the -continual devotion, charity, and hospitality of the Prior and convent of -Guisborough, granted them the indulgence, that in the church of Hart and -chapel of Hartlepool, service should, after that date, be perpetually -performed by a canon of Guisborough.</p> - -<p>Statutes for the government of the church were drawn up by the -Corporation of Hartlepool in 1599, and appear in the Corporation -records, whence the following extract:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"Ytt ys ordeyned, that whosoever of this town dothe shott att or -within the churche or churche steple of thys town, with gun, -crosbowe, or anie other shott for the kyllinge of any dove, pigeon, -or anie other foule, shall paye, for every suche offence, to the -use of the town. 12.d." </p></div> - -<p>In 1600 the number of "pues or stalls" was thirty-three.</p> - -<p>The first church, though much restored, is the one which still remains, -and the finest of the parish churches in the North. Standing on high -ground, the impressive landmark formed by its massive tower and -crocketed pinnacles, over many miles of land and water, has been -referred to with admiration by every historian of the county.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"The church of Hartlepool differs from most ancient churches in -being throughout one design, carried out at one time.... It tells, -as authentically as any written document could, of the rapid growth -and prosperity which preceded its erection. In the enthusiasm to -which success gives birth, the merchants of Hartlepool said: ‘We -will build a church.’ From the first they contemplated a splendid -design, and this they executed worthily."—<span class="smcap">Boyle.</span> </p></div> - -<p>The church stands to the north-west of the site of St. Hilda’s -Foundation. Its tower is its most striking<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_165">{165}</a></span> characteristic. At an early -date the tower must have shown signs of weakness, and the enormous -buttresses which increase its picturesqueness so much were added. These -additions are generally ascribed to the year 1230, and the entrance -arch, with a very beautiful but much decayed chevron moulding, cut -through the south buttress of the west side, is of the same date. The -tower is of three stages, and the south-west corner forms a turret, -through which a staircase leads to the roof. The clerestory windows have -formerly been of three lights each, now built into one, and are very -fine. The original capitals remain, but all the shafts have gone.</p> - -<p>The west, or main entrance, has been built up. The nave is supported by -five clustered pillars on each side, with pointed arches. In the wall of -the south aisle is a piscina. The greater part of the chancel is modern.</p> - -<p>Several chantries were attached to the church before the dissolution of -the monasteries, but the monumental remains are few.</p> - -<p>In the churchyard is a large tomb, which was formerly enclosed within -the walls of the ancient chancel, before the latter was taken down. It -is generally ascribed to the De Bruses, and the armorial shields on the -sides, each charged with a lion rampant, confirm the suggestion.</p> - -<p>Durham possesses another very good example of Early English architecture -in the parish church of Darlington, dedicated to St. Cuthbert. It -consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, a nave with aisles, -and a central tower crowned by a spire. That it stands on a site of -great antiquity is proved by the discovery, in 1866, during restoration, -of fragments of three pre-Conquest crosses, which are now preserved in -the church. In the charter of Styr, son of Ulf, which is included in a -record called by Symeon, the "Ancient Chartulary of the Church," there -is given to St. Cuthbert "the vill which is called Dearthingtun, with -sac and soc," and Symeon again mentions Darlington as one of the places -to which the secularized monks of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_166">{166}</a></span> Durham were removed in 1083 by -William de St. Carileph. On the authority of Geoffry de Coldingham, the -erection of the church has been ascribed to Bishop Pudsey, and the date -to 1190-95.</p> - -<p>The principal entrance is in the west front, set in a richly moulded -arch, with a trefoil-headed niche above. In the second stage of the -front is an arcade of five arches, and the third stage has three arches, -all with dividing shafts. The arches in the second stage are pierced -alternately with lancet lights. The walls of the aisle were greatly -altered about the middle of the fourteenth century, and all the -square-headed windows belong to this period, no features dating from the -original erection of the church remaining except the doorways. The north -doorway has been greatly restored, and the south doorway was originally -covered by a porch; it has a niche above. The clerestory has an arcade -of twelve arches pierced with four lancet windows on each side. Both -transepts and the chancel are of two stages, divided by string courses; -but the south transept is more enriched than the north, both internally -and externally. Buttresses divide the walls of the chancel into three -bays, and the walls and ends of the transepts are similarly divided into -two bays each. Those buttresses at the junctions of the transepts and -the chancel, owing to their great proportion, have much the appearance -of corner turrets. The spire and the higher stage of the tower are of -the same date as the walls of the aisles. Longstaffe says of the spire: -"On July 17, 1750, this beautiful spire, considered the highest and -finest in the North of England, was rent.... The storm occasioned -fifteen yards of the spire to be taken down and rebuilt in 1752.... -Unfortunately the mason omitted the moulding at the angles of the new -part."</p> - -<p>Incidentally it should be noted that Durham is one of the counties in -which spires are comparatively rare.</p> - -<p>The tower is supported by four arches on clustered shafts, and the nave -is divided from its aisle by four arches<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_167">{167}</a></span> on each side. The east wall of -the chancel is modern. Three sedilia of the Decorated period occupy the -usual position in the chancel. In one of the windows on the east side of -the south transept occurs the only instance of the dog-tooth ornament in -the interior of the church, and there is a piscina in both of the side -walls of the same transept.</p> - -<p>Darlington is the only church in the county which retains a rood-loft.</p> - -<p>On the south of the chancel is the vestry, which has been greatly -modernized. The only monumental effigy is that of an unknown lady with a -book in her hand. It dates from the early thirteenth century, and is -placed at the west end of the nave.</p> - -<p>After the two churches last mentioned, the church at Sedgefield, -dedicated to St. Edmund the Bishop, but formerly dedicated to the -Virgin, is probably the finest in the county. The nave and chancel date -from the Early English period. The tower is very fine, of Perpendicular -date and of three stages, crowned by battlemented parapets and small -spirelets standing on angle buttresses. The Rev. J. F. Hodgson is of the -opinion that it was intended to crown the tower with an open lantern, as -at St. Nicholas’ Cathedral, Newcastle.</p> - -<p>There are two transepts; the south contains the chapel of St. Thomas, -and in its east wall are two piscinas, one of which is trefoil-headed; -and in the south wall are two pointed recesses occupied by much -mutilated male and female effigies, the latter dating from the later -fourteenth century. The north transept contains the Chapel of St. -Katherine, and is now known as the Hardwick porch. Two of its ancient -windows still remain, and fix its date as 1328. The east window is -filled with Late Decorated tracery. The nave is divided from the aisles -by three pointed arches, supported by clustered pillars on moulded -bases. The capitals are richly carved and very interesting.</p> - -<p>The font is octagonal and of Frosterley marble, dating<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_168">{168}</a></span> from the end of -the fifteenth century, and charged on each side with armorial shields, -most likely carved in the seventeenth century. The stall work of the -chancel is ascribed to the latter part of the seventeenth century, and -the rich chancel screen to a slightly earlier date.</p> - -<p>On the north side of the chancel is the grave cover of Andrew de -Stanley, first master of Greatham Hospital.</p> - -<p>Two interesting brasses of skeletons in shrouds are preserved in the -vestry, and were originally inlaid in one slab. Another small brass is -in the south transept. It is considered to be one of the earliest in -England, and represents a lady in loose robe with tight sleeves and -wimple and hood. There is another brass to the memory of William Hoton, -engraved with a helmet and crest of three trefoils.</p> - -<p>Of the five bells, one is of pre-Reformation date, bearing the -inscription "✠ <span class="smcap">Trinitate Sacra Fiat Hec Campana Beata</span>," and the arms of -Rhodes and Thornton.</p> - -<p>The church at Staindrop, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, was much -mutilated by restorations in 1849, but its sepulchral monuments to -members of the Neville family are unrivalled.</p> - -<p>Parts of the walls of the nave are of pre-Reformation date, and two of -the original windows still remain. The north and south aisles were added -to the original structure in the twelfth century, when the nave walls -were pierced by three arches on each side, supported on cylindrical -pillars, with capitals carved in different foliage designs. During the -following century the plan of the church was altered, and an additional -bay added to the west end of the nave, north and south transepts thrown -out, and the tower erected. The tower was of three stages, probably -crowned by a wooden spire, taken down in 1408, when a fourth stage was -added. Being built on the original corbel-tables, and overhanging the -substructure, it gives the whole a very heavy appearance. About the -same<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_169">{169}</a></span> time the original high-pitched roofs were lowered to the almost -flat roofs which now exist, and the clerestory of the nave built. Before -the date of the latter alterations extensive changes had been made in -the church during the fourteenth century, when Ralph, Lord Neville, -under licence of the Prior and convent of Durham, endowed three -chantries. The original south aisle and transept were removed, and the -present south aisle, which is much wider than the nave, erected. At the -south-east angle of the aisle a small porch or vestry projects, which -was intended for the use of the priests officiating in the chantries.</p> - -<p>Shortly after these alterations, the symmetry of the church being -destroyed, a new north aisle and transept, of similar dimensions, but -much inferior work, were erected. The ancient vestry opening from the -chancel, with <i>domus inclusa</i> above, is very interesting.</p> - -<p>Staindrop is the only church in the county in which the pre-Reformation -chancel screen remains, but the rood-loft which surmounted it has been -destroyed. The font is octagonal, and of Teesdale marble, decorated with -armorial bearings, and may date from the latter part of the fourteenth -century.</p> - -<p>The first of the effigies before referred to is that of a lady, and lies -in a recess in the south aisle. It is ascribed to Isabel de Neville, -wife of Robert FitzMeldred, Lord of Raby. "The costume is an excellent -example of the dress of a gentlewoman of Western Europe in the second -half of the thirteenth century and beginning of the fourteenth." -Sepulchral effigies of females of this early date are extremely rare. -The general resemblance of this effigy to that of Aveline, Countess of -Lancaster, in Westminster Abbey, who died in 1269, is very striking.</p> - -<p>The second effigy in point of date is attributed to Euphemia, mother of -Ralph, Lord Neville, founder of the chantries and builder of the south -aisle, in which it lies in an enriched recess. The third, a female -effigy, is also in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_170">{170}</a></span> the same aisle, and though no doubt representing one -of the Neville family, its exact identity is a matter of some -controversy. It dates from the fourteenth century, and the remaining -effigy in the aisle—that of a boy—is of the same date.</p> - -<p>A remarkably fine altar-tomb, with effigies of Ralph Neville, first Earl -of Westmorland, and his wives—Margaret, daughter of Hugh, Earl of -Stafford, and Joan, daughter of John of Gaunt—has been described as the -most splendid in the North of England.</p> - -<p>The Earl is dressed in a rich suit of full armour, with collar of SS., -and the ladies in kirtles, with jewelled girdles and sideless surcoats -and mantles. Their arms have been destroyed. The Earl died in 1426.</p> - -<p>The remaining monument is to the memory of Henry Neville, fifth Earl of -Westmorland, who died in 1564, and his two first wives—Anne, daughter -of Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland, and Jane, daughter of Sir Richard -Cholmondeley.</p> - -<p>The monument is of oak, and ornamented with effigies of the Earl’s -children and armorial bearings. The Earl is dressed in armour, and an -inscription states that the tomb was made in the year 1560.</p> - -<p>In addition to the churches already mentioned, the south and south-east -districts of the county are rich in churches, worthy, if space availed, -of more than passing notice.</p> - -<p>At Barnard Castle the church dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin carries -evidence that it was in early times a large and important edifice, and -in the twelfth century consisted of chancel and nave, with north and -south aisles. Rebuilding and structural alterations were carried out -from time to time until the middle of the fifteenth century, when both -transepts were rebuilt. The vestry is probably of the same date, and the -chancel arch, which is very fine, slightly earlier. The tower is modern, -and replaced a fifteenth-century structure. The floor of the chancel is -much higher than that of the nave, and evidence of a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_171">{171}</a></span> similar difference -in levels is found at Lanchester Church. Two arched recesses, one of -which contains an effigy of a priest, are in the north wall of the north -transept, and a mutilated piscina is in the south wall of the same -transept. In this church there were four chantry chapels dedicated -respectively to St. Catherine, St. Helen, St. Margaret, and the Trinity, -and referred to in old records, but their exact position cannot now be -ascertained.</p> - -<p>The church at Winston has several sepulchral brasses, but, with the -exception of the walls of the chancel, which contain two remarkable -single-light windows, and the arcade and north wall of the nave, is -modern.</p> - -<p>Nearer to Darlington is the Church of St. Andrew at Haughton-le-Skerne. -The whole of the edifice is of one period, and dates from the second -quarter of the twelfth century. Its most striking feature is a massive -tower, surmounted by a battlemented turret of later date. The richly -carved woodwork of Restoration date is interesting. In the east wall of -the nave is a monumental brass, and a stone slab in the floor of the -tower commemorates the death of Elizabeth Naunton, Prioress of Neasham, -1488-89.</p> - -<p>The only medieval pulpit in the county is in the Church of St. Michael -at Heighington. It is of oak, and carved with the linen pattern design -and flowing tracery, with an inscription on the cornice.</p> - -<p>The church dates from the twelfth century, and considerable remains of -that date still exist.</p> - -<p>At Aycliffe, the Church of St. Andrew is substantially a building of -Norman date. It now consists of a chancel, nave with north and south -aisles, south porch, and western tower, the latter and the south aisle -dating from the beginning of the thirteenth century. Remains of several -pre-Conquest crosses are in the church and churchyard.</p> - -<p>Gainford Church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, is all of one period, -and with a few exceptions dates from the middle of the thirteenth -century. It contains several interesting brasses. The same may be said -of the Church<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_172">{172}</a></span> of St. Edwin at Coniscliffe, which has a very interesting -carved slab above the south door.</p> - -<p>The Church of All Saints at Hurworth contains several effigies, but was -almost entirely rebuilt in 1870. The Church of St. Mary at Egglescliffe -has portions of Early Norman date, but the chancel dates from the later -Perpendicular period, and has a fine east window of five lights. On the -south side of the nave is a fourteenth-century chapel, with a sepulchral -effigy of a man in rich armour in a niche in the outer wall.</p> - -<p>St. Cuthbert at Redmarshall is a modest structure, but contains two -interesting alabaster effigies of Thomas de Langton and Sybil, his wife, -placed in a fifteenth-century chantry chapel on the south side of the -nave.</p> - -<p>Both Norton and Billingham contain churches of great interest. The -former has portions of pre-Conquest date, and was one of the churches to -which William de St. Carileph removed the monks of Durham in 1083. The -church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, contains a nave and side -aisles, chancel, north and south porches, and central tower. The latter -originally rose no higher than the ridges of the main roofs, and formed -a chamber, the floor of which has been removed. Beneath the tower is a -very fine effigy of a knight in chain armour, surmounted by a crocketed -canopy. The chancel was rebuilt in the thirteenth century, and the upper -stage of the tower is probably of the same period.</p> - -<p>At Billingham the church is dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The tower is of -pre-Conquest date, and has certain points of resemblance to the higher -stage of that at St. Peter’s, Monkwearmouth. Several fragments of -pre-Conquest crosses are built into the south wall of the tower, and the -church has three memorial brasses.</p> - -<p>In Durham City, St. Oswald’s, the parish church of Elvet, has a -well-recorded history, and was the subject of an amusing dispute between -the Bishop Philip de Pictavia and the Prior and monks of Durham, arising -from a charter</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_030" style="width: 733px;"> -<a href="images/i_172fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_172fp.jpg" width="733" height="567" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Norton Church.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_173">{173}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of Henry II. confirming to the latter "Elvet, with the church of the -same town."</p> - -<p>On the accession of Philip—the last vicar, Richard de Coldingham, -having recently died—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"Four of the monks from St. Cuthbert’s held possession of the -church, and lived constantly in it.</p> - -<p>"The Bishop ... issued a command that the monks should quit the -church. This they refused to do; whereupon the Bishop employed as -many as thirty watchmen, who guarded all the doors and windows, so -that no food should reach the monks in the church. After two or -three days, two of the monks could endure the fast no longer, and -abandoned their charge. Their example was shortly followed by the -others.... Four days were occupied by negotiations, at the end of -which the Bishop confirmed the possession of the church to them -‘for their own proper uses.’"—<span class="smcap">Boyle.</span> </p></div> - -<p>The church is of various periods, and has a very good clerestory with a -fine open-work parapet, and a tower of more than ordinary interest, with -a stone staircase in the thickness of the wall, roofed with thirteenth -and fourteenth century grave-covers.</p> - -<p>St. Margaret’s and St. Giles’s are two city churches of interest. Both -have several pre-Reformation bells, and of the latter—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">"an interesting fact in the history of this church is that St. -Godric, during the period he resided in Durham, was an attendant at -its services, and at length became doorkeeper and -bellringer."—<span class="smcap">Boyle.</span> </p></div> - -<p>Pittington Church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, is one of the most -interesting churches in the central district of the county. Portions of -the western bays of the nave are of Norman date. In the twelfth century -great structural alterations were made to the original church, which had -consisted of a nave and chancel only. The tower belongs to this period, -and the wonderful north arcade pierced through the original north wall -of the nave. The arcading of the wall forms four bays, and a fifth was -built as an elongation to the east, the original chancel being taken -down and rebuilt. The pillars are alternately cylindrical, ornamented -with spiral bands, and octagonal with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_174">{174}</a></span> flutings. The arches are of two -orders, ornamented towards the nave with chevron mouldings, and resting -on octagonal cushioned capitals. During the thirteenth century the -church was enlarged by a south aisle being built. The tower arch is also -of this period. The date of the clerestory is uncertain. In 1846 the -chancel was taken down, and the south aisle entirely, and north aisle -partly, rebuilt, and the nave again lengthened. In the splays of an -early window in the north wall of the nave are remains of two wall -paintings.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"They are undoubtedly portions of a complete series of paintings -occupying the whole interior of the first Norman church.... They -represent two incidents in the life of St. Cuthbert—viz., his -consecration by Archbishop Theodore, and his vision at the table of -the Abbess Ælfleda...."—<span class="smcap">Fowler.</span> </p></div> - -<p>There is an interesting grave-cover in the floor beneath the tower, -bearing an inscription to the memory of Christian the Mason, a -contemporary of Bishop Pudsey. Also an effigy attributed to the family -of Fitz-Marmaduke, Lords of Horden, and several interesting monumental -stones.</p> - -<p>All the bells, three in number, are of pre-Reformation date.</p> - -<p>The important Church of St. Michael at Houghton-le-Spring dates almost -entirely from the thirteenth century, but stands on the site of a much -earlier erection, of which a portion still remains in the north wall of -the chancel, containing a square-headed doorway and round-headed window. -The church, as now existing, consists of a chancel with north and south -transepts, nave with north and south aisles, south porch, and central -tower. In the north wall of the chancel is an arcade of eight lancets, -much restored, and opening from the south side is an unusual -two-storeyed erection, which, it is presumed, had some connection with -the ancient Gild of Holy Trinity and St. Mary, established in the church -in 1476.</p> - -<p>The windows in the gables of the transepts are modern. In the east wall -of the south transept are three tall lancets<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_175">{175}</a></span> and two in the -corresponding wall of the north transept. In a recess in the south wall -of the former is a roughly carved and much-weathered effigy of a man in -armour, dating from the thirteenth century, and a similar effigy of -later date and superior workmanship lies in the same transept, together -with the altar-tomb of Bernard Gilpin, "the apostle of the North," and a -brass to the memory of Margery, wife of Richard Bellasis of Henknoll, -dated 1587. Both the transepts contained chantry chapels before the -Reformation, and in both are piscinas in the usual position.</p> - -<p>The arcading of the nave is very fine, and supported on clustered piers. -The east and west windows are Decorated insertions and contain good -tracery. The lower stage of the tower and its supporting arches are -contemporary with the main body of the church, the upper stage is modern -and with the present spire replaced the ancient spire of wood.</p> - -<p>At Dalton, the Church of St. Andrew, is a very simple structure, but -contains an unusual sundial, consisting of carved stone figures on the -inside of the north wall of the nave, upon which the time is marked by a -sunbeam passing through a window.</p> - -<p>St. Mary’s, Easington, has suffered much at the hands of restorers, but -still remains a most interesting church. The whole of the present -edifice, with the exception of the tower, which is of Norman work, dates -from the thirteenth century. The nave is separated from its aisle by -four pointed arches on either side resting on piers, alternately -octagonal and cylindrical. The clerestory is good and has four lancet -windows on each side. With the exception of the original round-headed -windows in the tower, all the windows are restorations. The present -entrance is at the south of the tower, the original entrance to the nave -having been built up. The woodwork of the chancel is interesting. There -are two fine male and female effigies of the Fitz-Marmaduke family in -the chancel, but their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_176">{176}</a></span> identity is uncertain. They date from the latter -part of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>In the north-eastern quarter of the county there are the churches of -Jarrow and Monkwearmouth already referred to, and several other edifices -of ancient foundation, but so much restored and modernized as to retain -few of their original features.</p> - -<div class="figleft" id="ill_031" style="width: 298px;"> -<a href="images/i_176.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_176.jpg" width="298" height="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Boldon Spire.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>This may be said of the church at Whitburn, which contains a peculiar -seventeenth-century monumental effigy in wood. The Church of St. -Nicholas at West Boldon occupies a lofty site on the side of a hill, and -is visible for many miles over Jarrow and the low land round Hedworth. -The oldest portions date from the beginning of the thirteenth century. -In January, 1906, the nave and chancel roofs were destroyed by fire, and -several of the monumental inscriptions badly scorched. The Church of St. -Hilda, at South Shields, occupies a site of great antiquity, but was -entirely rebuilt in 1810.</p> - -<p>The Church of St. Mary, Gateshead, is of more general interest, but has -been greatly restored. The tower was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_177">{177}</a></span> rebuilt in 1740. The roof of the -nave is good, and of Perpendicular date. Several pre-Reformation -grave-covers are built into the walls, two of special interest being in -the porch. A number of quaint extracts from the parish books are given -by Surtees:</p> - -<div class="blockquott"><p>1632. Paid for whipping black Barborie 6d.</p> - -<p>1649. Paid at Mris Watsons, when the Justices sate to examin the -witches ¾; for a grave for a witch 6d; for trying the witches £1. -5. 0.</p> - -<p>1671. Paid for powder and match when the Keelemen mutinyed 2/-.</p> - -<p>1684. For carrying 26 Quakers to Durham £2. 17s. </p></div> - -<p>In the north-west of the county, Ryton Church (Holy Cross), dates from -the thirteenth century, and is all of one period. It consists of a -chancel, nave with north and south aisles, western tower with spire, and -south porch. In the chancel is a square-headed piscina in the usual -position, a priest’s doorway, and a low side-window, now built up. In -the north wall is an ambry. The arcades of the nave are of three arches -each, the easternmost pillars on each side being octagonal, the others -cylindrical. The corbel-table of the tower is of interest, several of -the corbels being carved in foliage designs. The wooden, lead-covered -spire is contemporary with the tower. Within the altar-rails is a fine -sepulchral effigy in marble of a deacon.</p> - -<p>Returning again to the central districts, the Church of St. Mary and St. -Cuthbert at Chester-le-Street is the successor of an early wooden -edifice, which sheltered for the greater part of two centuries the -remains of the latter saint, before the Danish invasion of 995 caused -his guardians—for better security—to remove their charge to Ripon. -Egelric, fourth Bishop of Durham, decided to rebuild the church of -stone, but it is doubtful if any remains of his church are incorporated -in the present building. The date of the erection of the latter is -uncertain.</p> - -<p>The oldest portions of the present church are the north<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_178">{178}</a></span> and south walls -of the chancel, and in the south wall are inserted three windows, dating -from the thirteenth century, and evidently contemporary with the three -eastern bays of the arcade of the nave. The remaining bays of the nave -and the tower are later additions, and the graceful spire still later, -dating from the Early Decorated period.</p> - -<p>At the time of the Reformation there were two chantries in the church, -one being in the south aisle, at the east end of which there is a -trefoil-headed piscina and square ambry. At the west end of the north -aisle, partly within and partly without the church, is an interesting -two-storied erection, containing four chambers, which must have, at one -time, been an anchorage. The church is chiefly remarkable for the series -of fourteen monumental effigies of presumed members of the Lumley -family. Eleven, however, were the work of sculptors employed by John, -Lord Lumley, at the end of the sixteenth century, and two were removed -by him from the graveyard of Durham Abbey, under the mistaken impression -that they represented two of his ancestors.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"The first effigy, evidently imaginary, represents Liulph in a coat -of mail.... Above this venerable personage is a long inscription -commemorating the whole family descent.</p> - -<p>"Next to Liulph lies Uchtred, in a suit of chain armour....</p> - -<p>"The third effigy, William, son of Uchtred, who first assumed the -Lumley name, is probably genuine. He appears in a full suit of -chain armour, over which is a surcoat, with the drapery hanging in -easy folds below the girdle. The legs are crossed, and rest on a -lion. A shield on the left arm. The head rests on a cushion.</p> - -<p>"The second William de Lumley appears in plate of a much less -genuine description....</p> - -<p>"And the third William is like unto him, save that his legs be -straight and his hair wantonly crisped.</p> - -<p>"And Roger is like William, but sore mutilated.</p> - -<p>"Robert de Lumley, extremely like Roger....</p> - -<p>"Sir Marmaduke Lumley, in mail....</p> - -<p>"Ralph, first Baron Lumley ... one of those removed from the -cemetery of the Cathedral Church of Durham, a close coat of mail, -the visor ribbed down the front with two transverse slits for the -sight, the breast covered with the shield, the sword unsheathed and -upright, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_179">{179}</a></span> point resting against the visor, the legs straight, -resting on a couchant hound.</p> - -<p>"Sir John Lumley, almost minutely resembling the last.</p> - -<p>"George Lord Lumley. An effigy, recumbent like his predecessors.... -The dress is probably intended for the robes of the baron.</p> - -<p>"...Sir Thomas Lumley, Knight. The figure is in mail....</p> - -<p>"Richard, Lord Lumley....</p> - -<p>"The last effigy, John, Lord Lumley, in robes...."—<span class="smcap">Surtees.</span> </p></div> - -<p>In the church is also a thirteenth-century effigy of a bishop, -representing St. Cuthbert.</p> - -<p>St. Mary the Virgin, Lanchester, is a very interesting church, and has -portions of Norman date. It consists of a chancel, nave with north and -south aisles, and south porch, western tower, and a vestry. The chancel -dates from the thirteenth century, and there is a very fine piscina in -its south wall. The chancel arch dates from the middle of the twelfth -century. The vestry opens from the chancel by a very fine doorway, with -a cinquefoil arch. The arcades of the nave have four bays on either -side, with cylindrical pillars and pointed arches. The south aisle and -porch date from the beginning, and the north aisle from the end, of the -fourteenth century.</p> - -<p>There is a brass in the chancel to the memory of John Rudd, and an -effigy of a priest lies in a recess in the south aisle. During the -episcopacy of Bishop Bek the church was made collegiate with a Dean and -seven Prebendaries, and portions of the woodwork of their stalls are -still preserved.</p> - -<p>The church at Brancepeth (St. Brandon) has parts dating from the -thirteenth century, and is an interesting edifice. The panelling and -general internal fittings of the church are of a most elaborate nature. -Over the chancel arch is some remarkable screen work, carved in oak and -painted white. The chancel screen and stalls date from the time of John -Cosin, who was rector of Brancepeth before being raised to the Bishopric -in 1661, but have the appearance, in common with much of his work at -Durham Castle, of belonging to a much earlier period.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_180">{180}</a></span></p> - -<p>There are several sepulchral effigies to members of the Neville family -in the church.</p> - -<p>St. Michael’s, Bishop Middleham, is a thirteenth-century church and all -of one period. Whitworth church was entirely rebuilt in 1850, and is -only interesting for the remarkable male and female sepulchral effigies -in the churchyard.</p> - -<p>At Bishop Auckland, St. Helen’s has a chancel arch and two bays of the -arcades of the nave of Late Transitional work, a very short period -separating them from the western bays of the nave. The chancel is of -thirteenth-century date, and the aisles are prolonged to engage the -greater part of it, forming chantry chapels. The clerestory has three -two-light, Late Perpendicular windows on each side, and at the west end -is a round-headed window of earlier date, but evidently an insertion in -its present position. The east window consists of three lancets under -one arch, the spandrel spaces being pierced. The south doorway is of -Perpendicular date, and the porch, a later addition, has in common with -St. Andrew’s, Auckland, a chamber above. There is a brass of -fifteenth-century date in the church.</p> - -<p>The Church of St. Andrew’s, Auckland, is a fitting edifice to close this -brief account of the parish churches of Durham. Its site has from the -earliest times of Christianity in the North been occupied by a church, -and there is strong evidence that it was the home of a collegiate body -formed of monks removed from Durham by Bishop William de St. Carileph. -This establishment was reorganized by Bishop Bek in 1292, and great -alterations were made in the fabric of the church at the same time.</p> - -<p>The church consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, nave with -north and south aisles, and western tower. It dates from the thirteenth -century, and there is evidence that it succeeded a building of Norman -date, which was itself either an enlargement of, or a successor to, the -first building.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_181">{181}</a></span></p> - -<p>The church has many points of great interest, and perhaps the most -striking features of the interior are the arcades of the nave. These are -of five bays each, with richly moulded arches, resting on alternate -octagonal and clustered piers. The north transept was almost entirely -rebuilt during restoration, but the new work is a copy of the old, -which, however, did not date from the original church, but was one of -the alterations of Bishop Bek, before referred to. The east wall of the -chancel is also his work. In 1417 a higher stage was added to the tower, -and the clerestory of the nave is of still later date.</p> - -<p>The chancel stalls are the work of Cardinal Langley and very effective. -There are two monumental effigies in the church, one of a Knight in -armour, the other of a lady; both apparently date from the end of the -fourteenth century. There are also three brasses.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_182">{182}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="MONUMENTAL_INSCRIPTIONS_OF_THE_COUNTY_OF_DURHAM"></a>MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS OF THE COUNTY OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Edwin Dodds</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE earliest-known burial-place in the county of Durham has no -monumental inscriptions in it. It is a barrow opened at Copt Hill, near -Houghton-le-Spring, which contained Neolithic remains, and it is -interesting inasmuch as it has also vestiges of burials made again after -the lapse of many years, when the Bronze Age had superseded the period -in which men warred and worked with weapons of stone only. There is no -memento known of the Paleolithic Age in the county, and only thirteen -places of burial used by Neolithic man have been investigated. Of the -Bronze Age about a dozen burial-places have been examined, many of them -containing those small rudely fashioned earthenware vessels, from three -to six inches high, roughly ornamented with simple lines and dots, which -are known as "food-vessels" and "incense-cups."</p> - -<p>Of the monumental inscriptions left by the Romans, two of the most -interesting were found near the Roman station in South Shields. One of -them is an elaborately carved slab, four feet long, which bears the -figure of a woman seated, with a work-basket at her left hand and a -jewel-case at her right; she seems to be occupied in needlework. Below -is the Latin inscription: "To the Divine Shades of Regina, of the -Catuallaunian Tribe, a freed woman, and the wife of Barates the -Palmyrene.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_183">{183}</a></span> She lived thirty years." Below this is a line in Syriac: -"Regina, the freed woman of Barate. Alas!" The district of Catuallauna -is said to have extended from Gloucestershire to Lincolnshire. It is -strange that affinity of souls should have brought together as man and -wife a merchant from Syria and a slave from the centre of England. -Another Roman gravestone from South Shields, found in 1885, reads: "To -the Divine Shades of Victor. He was by nation a Moor: he lived twenty -years: and was the freed man of Numerianus, a horseman of the first ala -of Asturians, who most affectionately followed [his former servant to -the grave]." This stone probably dates from about <small>A.D.</small> 275; it bears the -half-recumbent figure of a man on a couch, with a canopy above and the -inscription below. At Binchester, near Bishop Auckland—the Vinovia of -the Romans—a plain slab with ansated ends was found inscribed: "Sacred -to the Divine Shades. Nemesius Montanus the Decurion lived forty years. -Nemesius Sanctus, his brother, and his coheirs, erected this in -accordance with the provisions of his will." This slab was also probably -carved and set up in the third century. In Roman epitaphs no mention of -death is ever made; it is stated that the person commemorated had lived -so many years, but the fact that he died and the date of his death is -not recorded.</p> - -<p>Of Anglo-Saxon memorial crosses there are a large number in the county -of Durham, all of them of great interest, and some of beautiful -workmanship. The most notable are those at Aycliffe, Billingham, -Chester-le-Street, Coniscliffe, Darlington, Dinsdale, Durham (where, in -the Dean and Chapter Library, there is a fine collection both of -original stones from several places and of facsimile copies), Elwick, -Escomb, Gainford, Great Stainton, Haughton-le-Skerne, Hurworth, Kelloe, -Norton, Sockburn, and Winston-on-the-Tees. None of them are perfect; -most of them are fragments of monuments which have at some time been -broken up and used as building stones.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_184">{184}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft" id="ill_032" style="width: 214px;"> -<a href="images/i_184.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_184.jpg" width="214" height="659" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Anglo-Saxon Stone at Chester-le-Street.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The cross at Kelloe is made up of pieces now carefully joined together; -it is a very fine example. Most of these crosses have the characteristic -knot-work ornament, and many of them have human figures, crucifixions, -monsters, warriors, animals, and birds, carved upon them, the sculpture -and design being of the Anglian school. Very few of them have any -lettering. One at Chester-le-Street has <small>EADMUND</small> in mixed Runic and Roman -letters, but this may be an addition by a later hand. The hog-backed -stones of this period, of which some very fine specimens were discovered -at Sockburn in 1900, bear similar knot-work ornaments. In 1833 a -burial-place at Hartlepool, and in 1834 one at Monkwearmouth, were -discovered; they both yielded memorial stones, small in size, but of -great interest. A stone from the latter place, now in the British -Museum, bears the name <small>TIDFIRTH</small> in Runic characters. Tidfirth was the -last Bishop of Hexham, and was deposed about the year 821. The stones -found at Hartlepool are known as pillow-stones; they are almost square, -and only from 9 to 12 inches across by about 2 inches thick. Only seven -of them have been saved. They all bear a cross, sunk in some stones and -raised on others, and several of them have short inscriptions in Saxon -minus<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_185">{185}</a></span>cules. One reads: "<small>ORATE PRO EDILUINI ORATE PRO UERMUND ET -TORTHSUID</small>."</p> - -<p>Those effigies, or early statues, generally recumbent, and made -sometimes of wood, but more often of stone, which were placed in -churches from the twelfth to the sixteenth centuries, are to be found in -many places in the county, sometimes decently and carefully preserved in -the church, sometimes left to weather and decay in the churchyard, or in -the rectory garden. Among the more noticeable of them are the following:</p> - -<p>At the west end of Staindrop Church is the "altar-tomb of alabaster," -with an effigy of Ralph Neville, first Earl of Westmorland, in plate -armour, and with figures of his two wives, one on either hand. Surtees, -in his <i>History of Durham</i>, describes it as "this noble tomb, which is -in the purest style of the best age of sepulchral monuments." Its date -is probably about 1425. There is in the same church another tomb with -effigies, in wood, of the fifth Earl of Westmorland and his two wives; -it is dated 1560.</p> - -<p>Barnard Castle Church has an effigy of a priest attired in chasuble, -stole, dalmatic, alb, and amice. The inscription is in Lombardic -lettering, and reads: "<small>ORATE PRO AIA ROBERTI DE MORTHAM QNDM VICARII DE -GAYNFORD</small>." This Robert de Mortham founded a chantry at Barnard Castle in -1339.</p> - -<p>At Bishopwearmouth there was formerly the effigy of Thomas Middleton of -Chillingham, the founder of the family of Silksworth. It represented -Middleton in complete armour, with his hands raised. It bore the -inscription: "Hic jacet Thom’ Middylton Armiger — — — <small>MCCC</small>." At one time -this statue lay on an altar-tomb in the north aisle of the church; later -it was placed upright against the wall of the aisle; later, again, it is -recorded that it lay, broken into two pieces, in the porch; to-day it -cannot be found.</p> - -<p>In the Church of St. Giles, in the city of Durham, there is a wooden -effigy in complete armour, which is supposed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_186">{186}</a></span> to represent the first -John Heath, of Kepier, who was buried in the chancel of that church in -1590.</p> - -<p>The Lumley monuments are a collection of fourteen effigies which lie in -the north aisle of Chester-le-Street Church. They were placed there by a -Lord Lumley about 1594. They represent the Lords of Lumley from Liulph, -who lived in the days of William the Conqueror, down to the John, Lord -Lumley, who fought at Flodden Field in 1513. Probably only three of the -fourteen monuments are genuine; the others were either manufactured or, -more probably, collected from other places.</p> - -<p>The old chapel at Greatham was pulled down in 1788. In a recess in the -south wall of the transept there was a wooden effigy of an ecclesiastic. -During the rebuilding of the chapel a stone coffin containing his bones -and a chalice of pewter was found near the foot of the wall.</p> - -<p>In the Pespoole seats in the south aisle of Easington Church there is an -elegant recumbent figure of a woman, carved in Stanhope marble. On it -are carved the three popinjays which were carried on the coat of arms of -the ancient owners of Horden. At Heighington Church there are two female -effigies, one of which has been very fine, but they are both much -weathered and decayed; they are probably of fourteenth-century date. In -the same church there is a medieval pulpit, the only one remaining in -the county. It is of oak, and on it there is inscribed in black letter: -"<span class="eng">orate p’ aiabz Alexandri flessehar et agnetis uxoris sue</span>." To -commemorate oneself by giving a pulpit to the church seems a practical -and useful form of memorial. As this is the only medieval pulpit the -county has left, it seems likely that its preservation is due to the -inscription it bears.</p> - -<p>When Neasham Abbey, in the north of Yorkshire, fell into ruin, two of -its effigies were moved over the Tees to the church at Hurworth. One of -them was a remarkably fine figure of a knight in armour, his head -covered with a coat of mail, his body clad in a shirt of mail, over -which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_187">{187}</a></span> there is a surcoat. His shield has "barry of eight, three -chaplets of roses." The armour is of the style in use in the early part -of the fourteenth century, and the effigy probably represents the Robert -FitzWilliam who was Warden of the Marches in the time of the just King -Edward I., and who died in 1316.</p> - -<p>In Lanchester Church, under an arch in the wall of the south aisle, lies -a recumbent effigy of a canon secular, his raised hands clasping a -chalice. This is believed to represent Stephen Austell, Dean of -Lanchester, who died in 1464. In Monkwearmouth Church, under a canopy -which bears the shields of the Hiltons and Viponds, there is a very -interesting effigy of a knight in plate armour of the early part of the -fifteenth century. This is probably the Baron William Hilton, who built -Hilton Castle on the Wear, with its wonderful armorial front. He died in -1435. At Norton, near Stockton, there is a magnificent effigy of a -knight in chain armour; over the head there is a rich canopy of -tabernacle-work; the hands are raised and the legs are crossed, the feet -resting on a lion. It is sometimes assumed that this representation of a -knight with his legs crossed one over the other indicates that the -person portrayed was a Crusader, but there are many cases where the -attitude is used in which it is known that the effigy was that of one -who could not have taken any part in those Holy Wars. This monument is -further noticeable as it is one of the very few which give us even a -slight hint as to the personality of the sculptor; it bears what is -believed to be his mark in the shape of a small squiggle, which looks -like a short length of chain, in front of which is the letter "I," and -it is supposed that this punning rebus means that the effigy is the -handiwork of one John Cheyne. It would be very interesting to know who -commissioned Cheyne to carve this monument, for another curious feature -in it is that the shield of the knight bears six coats of -arms—Blakeston, Surtees, Bowes, Dalden, Conyers, and Conyers—which -mean that the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_188">{188}</a></span> knight was a Blakeston of Blakeston. But the Blakestons -bore these arms in the sixteenth century, probably not later than the -year 1587, whereas the armour of the effigy is of the time of Edward I., -1272-1307. Boyle suggests that probably the monument is to one of the De -Parks, and that a Blakeston took it, scraped off the De Park arms, and -put on his own coat. Whatever its vicissitudes may have been, it remains -a noble piece of work.</p> - -<p>In Redmarshall Church, in the Claxton Porch, there are effigies of -Thomas Langton de Wynyard and of Sibil Langton, his wife. They are -admirably carved in a rather soft alabaster, and the delicacy and -clearness of detail in the costumes is very remarkable. The lady’s hair -is dressed in the extraordinary horns which were fashionable in the days -of Henry V. She wears a long, loose kirtle, with a surcoat and mantle; -round her neck is a string of pearls, and round her waist is a jewelled -belt. The knight wears a suit of plate armour, probably of Italian make, -the fashion of which suggests that the effigy was carved several years -after the death of Thomas de Langton in 1440.</p> - -<p>Effigies of men who had devoted themselves to a religious life, but who -died before attaining the order of priesthood, are very rare. There is -one of a deacon within the altar-rails of Ryton Church, carved in green -marble from Stanhope.</p> - -<p>Whitburn Church holds a singular effigy of comparatively late date. -Attired in the full stiff dress of the time of William and Mary lies a -plump, elderly gentleman. He wears a full periwig, a neckcloth with -square ends, a coat with large buckramed skirts and wide sleeves, rolled -breeches, and square-toed laced shoes ornamented with immense bows of -ribbon. His head rests on a pillow, and his right hand holds a book, -which is open at the text, "I shall not lye here, but rise." There is a -skull between the feet. On the uprights of the tomb the same figure is -carved in bas-relief, kneeling, and on each side of him is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_189">{189}</a></span> lady in -the dress of the same period. A tablet on the wall states that this is -"the burial-place of Mr. Michael Mathew of Cleadon, and his wife, who -had issue three sons and two daughters, of which only Hannah survives."</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Brasses.</span>—In many of the older churches of the county there are -remaining the stone matrices which formerly held monumental brasses, but -in most cases the brasses themselves have disappeared, the sanctity of a -church, and the contiguity of a Table of the Ten Commandments not having -prevailed against the temptation to steal a substance so portable and so -readily saleable as brass.</p> - -<p>In the floor of the chapel at Greatham Hospital there is a large slab of -stone, 90 by 43 inches in size, with an inscription in brass Lombardic -letters round the edge commemorating William de Middleton, a master of -the Hospital in 1312. On the wall is another inscription, in raised -black-letter with chasing, asking for prayers for the souls of Nicholas -Hulme, who was master in 1427, of John Kelyng, 1463, and of William -Estfelde, who died in 1497.</p> - -<p>At Sherburn Hospital there is a small brass let into the chancel steps, -which reads: "<small>THOMAS</small> . <small>LEAVER</small> . <small>PREACHER</small> . -<small>TO KING EDWARD</small> . <small>THE</small> . <small>SIXTE</small>. -<small>HE</small> . -<small>DIED</small> . i<small>N</small> . i<small>VLY</small> . i577."</p> - -<p>In the church at St. Andrew’s Auckland there is a finely cut brass with -the figure of a priest, of which the head is, unfortunately, missing. -There is no inscription, but the date of it is probably about 1400. In -the same church there is a unique brass, small in size, but about ½ inch -thick; it bears a small Greek cross with a backing of plant decoration, -and it has three lines of inscription across the plate and a legend -round the margin. It is dated April 8, 1581, and was put up to the -memory of Mrs. Fridesmond Barnes, who was the wife of the second -Protestant Bishop of Durham, Richard Barnes. We know the cost of this -brass, for in the Bisho<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_190">{190}</a></span>p’s accounts there is the entry, "To the -gould-smyth at Yorke for a plate to sett over Mrs. Barnes, 32ˢ."</p> - -<p>At St. Helen’s Auckland there is a brass which portrays the figure of a -man in a long tunic edged with fur; his wife lies by his side, and below -are figures of his sons and daughters. The inscription is lost, but the -date of it is probably about 1460.</p> - -<p>In Sedgefield Church there is a curious brass giving the crest of -William Hoton, 1445, with a black-letter inscription below: "<span class="eng">Hic iacet -willm̄s Hoton . qui . obijt . xviº die Septebr’ Anno . dni . Millm̄o . -ECCCº . xlvº . cui’ aie ppicietur de’ ame’</span>." In the same church there are -two of the objectionable brasses which were not uncommon in the -fifteenth century, which portrayed skeletons in shrouds.</p> - -<p>Chester-le-Street Church has a very pleasing brass, giving the -full-length figure of a woman attired in the costume of the first half -of the fifteenth century. The lines of the composition are simple and -bold, and the effect is very graceful. The brass has no inscription, but -it is known that it was put up to the memory of Alice Salcock of Salcock -in Yorkshire, who married William Lambton, and who died in 1434.</p> - -<p>At Dinsdale, on the southern margin of the county, close to the River -Tees, there is in the church a late, small, but beautifully worked -brass, only about 11 inches by 8 inches in size. It bears the coat of -arms of eight quarterings, and records the merciful benefactions to the -poor of the parish of Dinsdale of Mary, the wife of Thomas Spennithorne. -She died in 1668, and was buried at Spennithorne.</p> - -<p>In the magnificent cathedral of Durham most of the sepulchral monuments -were destroyed either at the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the reign -of Henry VIII., or when the cathedral church was used as a prison for -Scotch prisoners of war after the Battle of Dunbar in 1650. In 1671 -Davies wrote his book on <i>The Rites and Monuments of the Church of -Durham</i>, with the motto <i>Tempora<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_191">{191}</a></span> mutantur</i>—on the title-page, giving a -sad description of the past glories of the church. "Lodovic de bello -Monte, Bishop of Durham," he says, "lieth buried before the high Altar -in the Quire, under a most curious and sumptuous Marble stone, which he -prepar’d for himself, before he died, being adorned with most excellent -workmanship of Brass, wherein he was most excellently and lively -Pictur’d, as he was accustomed to sing, or say Mass." This Bishop de -bello Monte, or Beaumont, died at Brantingham, near Hull, in 1333. His -gravestone, which was said to be the largest in England, still lies -before the high-altar in Durham Cathedral, but the "most excellent -workmanship of Brass" has utterly disappeared.</p> - -<p>In Hartlepool Church there is a brass with the figure of a lady in a -large hat, with ruff and farthingale; on another brass below it is the -inscription:</p> - -<div class="blockquottt"><p class="nind"> -<small>HERE VNDER TH</small>i<small>S STONE LYETH BVR</small>i<small>ED -THE BOD</small>i<small>E OF THE -VERTVOUS GENTELLWOMAN IANE BELL, WHO DEPTED TH</small>i<small>S LYFE THE</small> -. vi. <small>DAYE OF IANVARIE 1593 BE</small>i<small>NGE THE DOWGHTER OF LAVERANCE -THORNELL OF DARLINGTON GENT</small> <small>& LATE WYFE TO PARSAVAL -BELL, NOWE MA</small>i<small>RE OF THIS TOWEN OF HART</small>i<small>NPOOELL. MARCHANT</small> -</p></div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i3">whos vertues if thou wilt beholde<br /></span> -<span class="i5">peruse this tabel hanginge bye<br /></span> -<span class="i3">which will the same to thee vnfold<br /></span> -<span class="i5">by her good lyfe learne thou to die.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In Haughton-le-Skerne Church there is a curious figure on a brass, -representing a lady, who holds a baby on each arm. She was Dorothy, the -wife of Robert Perkinson of Whessey, and she died, with her twin sons, -in 1592.</p> - -<p>At Houghton-le-Spring there is a brass to the memory of Margery, wife of -Richard Bellasis. It pictures the kneeling figure of a woman with her -eight sons and three daughters behind her. The Bellasis coat of arms is -on the brass: the date is 1587.</p> - -<p>In Sedgefield Church there is a rudely engraved, early brass, probably -cut about the year 1300. It shows a small female figure, kneeling, and -it has a coat of arms on both<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_192">{192}</a></span> sides of the figure. From the shape of -the two coats of arms, and from the conventional treatment of the -features of the face, which is more carefully executed than the rest of -the figure, it is believed that this is one of the oldest sepulchral -brasses now remaining in England.</p> - -<p>The tombstone to Dean Rudde, which lies in the floor of the chancel of -Sedgefield Church, still carries its inscribed brass. The stone is a -very large one. The black-letter epitaph is so much worn by the tread of -the feet of many generations that it can only be read with some -uncertainty. It seems to run:</p> - -<div class="blockquottt"><p class="nind"><span class="eng">Orate p aīa m̄ri Joh̄is Rudde in decretis baccalarii quondm̄ -decani hui’ loci qui obiit xxix die decēbr’ Anno dn̄i Mº CCCCº -lxxxx cui’ āīē ppiciet de’ amen.</span> </p></div> - -<p>This John Rudde gave to the church of Esh the only medieval service-book -belonging to any church in the diocese of Durham which is now known to -exist. It is in the library of the Roman Catholic College of Ushaw, near -Durham.</p> - -<p>The beautiful memorials to the dead which were known as grave-covers -were used in England and Ireland from the ninth to the sixteenth -century. Though they are abundant in the county, Durham cannot boast of -the possession of specimens equal in merit to those found in some other -parts of England. At Sedgefield Church there is a fine -thirteenth-century grave-cover with a double, eight-rayed cross; it has -the rare feature of a double row of dog-tooth ornament at the head; and -it is the only stone known in the county which has the whole surface -covered with a tracery of foliage. It is, unfortunately, much weathered. -Built into the tower of the same church, and only partly visible, is -another richly ornamented cover, dating probably from the middle of the -fourteenth century, the foliated ornament being more naturally shown, or -less conventionalized, than in earlier examples. It bears a sword and a -cross moline on a small shield.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_193">{193}</a></span></p> - -<p>The symbolism used on grave-covers is not well understood. A key is said -to indicate a woman, a sword a man; shears sometimes represent a woman, -sometimes a wool-stapler; a chalice or a book, or both, are placed on -the gravestone of a priest or other ecclesiastic. Craftsmen are often -indicated by some sign of their business, as a square for a mason, a -horseshoe or a hammer for a smith. Sometimes a merchant uses his -trade-mark much as an armigerous person uses his coat of arms. Built -into the south porch of St. Mary’s Church in Gateshead there are two -large grave-covers bearing incised crosses. One of them, a -fourteenth-century slab, has at one side of the stem of the cross a key, -and at the other side a fish. Most authorities think that the fish is -the mystic symbol of our Saviour, which was so dear to the early -Christians, and which is frequently found on the gravestones in the -catacombs at Rome; but other antiquaries consider that the stone is to -be more literally interpreted, and that it covered the remains of a -fish-wife.</p> - -<p>The earlier grave-covers were stone lids for stone coffins, but after -the use of stone coffins was discontinued, and wooden coffins were -substituted, the remains of the dead were often covered by these carved -stone slabs. The larger part of them are uninscribed, but grave-covers -with a few lines cut on them are by no means uncommon. At Gainford there -is a perfect grave-cover of the fourteenth century which bears a chalice -and three floreated crosses, one large and two small. It has been -suggested that these prove this to have been the burial-place of an -ecclesiastic and two children, for burial in a monk’s frock or in the -grave of a priest was long considered by all classes of people to be -desirable. This stone, though it is of early fourteenth-century period, -bears an inscription to Laurence Brockett, Regius Professor of Modern -History at Cambridge, who died in 1768. His executors seem to have -thought that an old gravestone was just as good as a new one.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_194">{194}</a></span></p> - -<p>Of quaint sepulchral inscriptions there are many in the county. The one -in Monkwearmouth Church to the memory of a Mrs. Lee is on a small marble -tablet on the vestry wall. It reads:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza1"> -<span class="i0">HEERE VNDER LYETH Yᴱ BODDYE OF MARY LEE<br /></span> -<span class="i0">DAVGHTER TO PETER DELAVALE LATE OF<br /></span> -<span class="i0">TINMOVTH GENT SHEE DIED IN CHYLDBED<br /></span> -<span class="i8">YE 23 OF MAY 1617<br /></span> -<span class="i4">HAPIE IS Yᵀ SOVLE Yᵀ HEERE<br /></span> -<span class="i4">ON EARTH DID LIVE A HARMLESS LYFE<br /></span> -<span class="i4">& HAPPIE MAYD Yᵀ MADE<br /></span> -<span class="i4">SOE CHAST AN HONNEST WIFE.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>It is strange that a lawyer "of ability and integrity" should not be -able to make himself a sound will. In Greatham Chapel there is an -inscription: "In memory of Ralph Bradley, Esq. an eminent Councillor at -Law, born in this parish, who bequeathed a large fortune, acquired in a -great measure by his abilities and integrity, to the purchasing of books -calculated to promote the interests of virtue and religion, and the -happiness of mankind. He died the 28th day of December 1788, in the 72d -year of his age...." Below, on a copper plate, is: "By a decree of -Edward Lord Thurlow, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, on the 2ᵈ -day of August 1791, the charitable intention mentioned above was set -aside in favour of the next of kin."</p> - -<p>In Stockton Church we may read that on "Wednesday the 19th of May 1773 -was here interred the body of Mrs. Sarah Baker ... aged 59. Do thou -reflect in time; death itself is nothing, but prepare to be you know not -what, to go you know not where."</p> - -<p>At Houghton-le-Spring stands the massy altar-tomb of the great Bernard -Gilpin, "the apostle of the North," that sweet-natured, fearless, and -humble-minded man who so narrowly escaped a martyr’s death at the stake. -The tomb bears his coat of arms and the following:<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_195">{195}</a></span></p> - -<table -style="font-size:70%;"> -<tr><td>BERNERD</td><td> </td><td class="rt">OBIT QVA</td></tr> -<tr><td>GILPIN RE</td><td class="c">[A bear with a crescent on its side,</td><td class="rt">RTV DIE M</td></tr> -<tr><td>CTOR HV</td><td class="c">leaning against a tree.]</td><td class="rt">ARTII AN.</td></tr> -<tr><td>IVS ECCLIÆ</td><td> </td><td class="rt">DOM. 1583.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"> -<div class="stanza"> - See here his Dust shut up whose Generous mind<br /> - No stop before in Honours path could find.<br /> - Truth Faith and Justice, and a Loyall Heart<br /> - In him Showd Nature, which in most is Art. -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In the same church of Houghton-le-Spring there is the following epitaph: -"Here Lyes interr’d the Body of Nicolas Conyers Esqʳ. High Sheriff of -this County Chiefe of yᵉ Family of Conyers of the House of Boulby in -Yorkshire. He dyed at South Biddick Mar: 27 <small>A.D.</small> 1689 his age 57." Below -is his crest.</p> - -<p>At Houghton Hall Robert Hutton, a zealous Puritan and a Captain in -Cromwell’s army, was buried in his own orchard, where his altar-tomb is -inscribed: "<small>HIC JACET ROBERTVS HVTTON ARMIGER QVI OBIIT AVG. DIE NONO -1681 ET MORIENDO VIVIT</small>."</p> - -<p>In the Galilee Chapel at the west end of Durham Cathedral there is a -stone on the floor inscribed:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza1"> -<span class="i0">JOHN BRIMLEIS BODY HERE DOTH LY,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">WHO PRAY SED GOD WITH HAND AND VOICE;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">BY MUSICKES HEAVENLY HARMONIE<br /></span> -<span class="i0">DULL MINDS HE MAID IN GOD REJOICE.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">HIS SOUL INTO THE HEAVENS IS LYFT<br /></span> -<span class="i0">TO PRAISE HIM STILL THAT GAVE THE GYFT.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">This Brimley was master of the Song School at Durham Cathedral.</p> - -<p>That mighty builder, Hugh Pudsey, who was Bishop of Durham from 1153 to -1195, seems to have had a fellow-worker who pleased him in the person of -Christian the Mason, whose grave-cover is at Pittington. One wonders -whether it was after Christian had built for the Bishop the stout -fortifications of Durham Castle, or whether it was when he had finished -the beautiful Galilee Chapel of the cathedral, that Pudsey gave him, as -we know he did, forty acres in the moor at South Sherburn, besides other -lands,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_196">{196}</a></span> "quit of all rent whilst he should remain in the service of the -bishop." Pudsey’s own tomb in Durham Cathedral is broken and dispoiled, -but Christian the Mason’s grave-cover at Pittington can still be read:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">✠<small>NOMEN ABENS CRISTI TVMVLO TVMVLATVR IN ISTO</small><br /></span> -<span class="i0">✠<small>QVI TVMVLVM CERNIT COMMENDET CVM PRECE CRISTO</small>,<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">which may be interpreted: "One having the name of Christ is buried here. -Let him who beholds the grave commend himself with prayer to Christ."</p> - -<p>In the churchyard of St. Hild’s at Hartlepool, about 6 feet from the -east wall of the modern chancel, there is an old altar-tomb covered with -a very large slab of bluish stone. If it has ever been inscribed the -lettering is now utterly weathered off, but it has the lion of Bruce on -the uprights at the sides still faintly visible. This is the -resting-place of the fathers of Robert Bruce. They owned Hart and -Hartlepool for many generations before Robert Bruce claimed the crown of -Scotland in 1306. His lands in the county of Durham were then seized and -given to the Cliffords. In Easington Church there is an effigy of a lady -in thirteenth-century costume, which probably represents Isabella, first -wife of John Fitz-Marmaduke. She was the daughter of Robert de Brus of -Skelton, and the sister of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland.</p> - -<p>Coming last to the ordinary inscriptions on the tombstones and -headstones of our churchyards, one of the first things that strikes an -observer is the large number of cases where, though the stone remains, -the inscription is wholly or partly weathered off and lost; such cases -are an occasion of woe to the genealogist. In looking through a country -churchyard it will often be found that 10 per cent. of the stones are -unreadable. This is generally because a soft and unsuitable stone has -been used. Some slate-stones stand well; limestones and marbles only -last while they are in a church, rain and slight traces of acid in the -atmosphere soon disintegrate them out of doors.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_197">{197}</a></span> Granite will probably -endure very long, but it has been little used in Durham churchyards, and -only since about 1860. Sandstones are most generally used, and some of -these, of a close-grain and of a dark colour when old, stand exceedingly -well. The fell sandstones, or hassells, used in the west of the county, -are almost as hard as granite. They are very difficult to cut, so the -lettering on them is often quite shallow; but stones 200 years old are -quite unaffected by weather. Soft sandstones, which are easily cut, -either crumble and decay gradually, or in some cases they scale off in -flakes and perish very quickly. It is common to see two stones of about -the same date, standing side by side, one of which is sound and clear, -while the other cannot be read. Frequently one finds a stone where, -owing to differences of hardness, one part of the inscription is sharp -and legible, while other parts are completely gone.</p> - -<p>Along the parishes on the coast of the county the wanderer cannot fail -to be struck with the constant repetition of the words, "Lost at sea," -and if he should turn to the registers of these parishes and read the -many entries like, "A woman at ye sea side found drowned," "A man cast -upon our sands by the sea," "Foure Duchmen wth a woman and a childe -being drowned by shipwrack were buried in this Churchyard," he will -learn what a heavy tithe the sea takes from the land, and how high is -the price that man pays for the sovereignty of the sea.</p> - -<p>Punning epitaphs are, fortunately, not numerous in the county. Here is -one, from Stockton, to the memory of two masons, "Ralph Wood, who -departed this life Oct. 22, 1730, in the 67th year of his age. Here -lieth the Body of Ralph Wood, aged 67, 1743.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"We that have made tombs for others,<br /></span> -<span class="i5">Now here we lie;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Once we were two flourishing Woods,<br /></span> -<span class="i5">But now we die."<br /></span> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_198">{198}</a></span></div></div> -</div> - -<h2><a id="THE_CASTLES_AND_HALLS_OF_DURHAM"></a>THE CASTLES AND HALLS OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Henry R. Leighton</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>LTHOUGH the county of Durham is not studded with castles and peels like -its northern neighbour, nor decked with many ancient homes in a still -picturesque and habitable condition, like the moors and valleys of York, -it is still fairly rich in buildings of historic and antiquarian -interest.</p> - -<p>The banks of the Wear alone, if followed from the source to the mouth, -may be compared to some miniature Rhine in picturesqueness. The -mountainous scenery of Weardale, and the frequent woods and plantations -that ornament the banks of its lower reaches, the castles of Stanhope, -Witton, Auckland, Brancepeth, Durham, Lumley, Lambton, and Hilton, -rising in a stately succession, to say nothing of the glorious old -cathedral, the monastic ruins of Finchale, and the grey old tower of -Wearmouth, make a panorama unrivalled in its way. It may, however, be -remarked in all fairness that almost every English stream can tell a -similar story, and for a vision, in homely and familiar buildings, of a -glorious past our England stands unrivalled.</p> - -<p>The first-named of the above mansions, Stanhope Castle, stands upon the -site of a fortified house existing in the time of Bishop Anthony Bek. -The present building is, however, a Georgian structure erected about a -century ago by Cuthbert Rippon, M.P. for Gateshead. The old home of</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_033" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_198fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_198fp.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Witton Castle in 1779.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_199">{199}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the Fetherstonhaughs, so long associated with this district, Stanhope -Hall, is an Elizabethan mansion with several panelled rooms, and is now -divided amongst a number of tenants.</p> - -<p>Witton Castle, erected by the great baronial house of Eure, stands on -the south side of the river, not very far from Witton-le-Wear. It was -erected somewhere about 1410, for in that year Bishop Langley granted a -pardon to Sir Ralph Eure for having commenced to embattle his -manor-house at Witton. It originally consisted of a square bailey, -surrounded by an outer wall, with a projecting keep on the north side.</p> - -<p>The keep has been considerably altered at various periods. It is oblong -in shape, with corner turrets rising above the roof. The basement -consists of one barrel-vaulted apartment, with adjoining chambers in the -north-west, south-west, and south-east turrets; the entrances to two of -these were originally fastened on the outer side. The first floor is the -great hall, and has doorways leading into chambers in the turrets. -Another door in the north-east corner leads to a newel staircase -ascending to the battlements. The room immediately over the east end of -the great hall has a doorway opening into a small mural chamber, -originally a latrine, in the north-east turret. This floor has a passage -in the thickness of the west wall. The parapets are reached by the -staircase already referred to. The turrets at the north-east and -south-east corners project like angle buttresses, and the latter has two -figures in armour, similar to those at Hilton Castle, standing on the -parapet. The north-west turret is larger, and its sides are parallel -with the walls of the keep. The south-west turret is still larger, and -it projects beyond the south front, having its west wall continued in -line with that of the main building. All the turrets have crenellated -parapets. The eastern turrets have their alternate sides machicolated on -double corbels.</p> - -<p>The outer wall has two gateways, one on the east, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_200">{200}</a></span> the other on the -west side, leading into the courtyard. Both are defended by machicolated -galleries above, the parapet being carried outwards on double corbels. -The whole wall is defended by a broad battlement with a high parapet -round the top. There are embrasures at intervals, each originally -defended by movable shutters; a round socket on one side, and a slot on -the other, remain to show where the pivots moved. A number of round -holes in the walls were intended to support woodwork on which platforms -could be erected, thus enabling the garrison to strike at attackers -below.</p> - -<p>Each angle of this outer or curtain wall was originally strengthened by -a bartizan. Three of these were circular, but one, that at the -north-west corner, was pulled down in the early days of last century. -The fourth bartizan, that at the south-west corner of the wall, is -almost square in shape, with the outer walls projecting and resting on -corbels. It contains a guardroom, with a fireplace, and two doors -opening on to the adjoining battlements. The south-east bartizan also -contains a room, circular in shape, with a loopholed wall. About a -century ago the castle was unfortunately damaged by fire. It was -afterwards restored by Mr. J. T. H. Hopper, the owner.</p> - -<p>Tracing the river eastwards, the ancient home and palace of the Bishops -and Lords Palatine stands close to the river and to the east of Auckland -town.</p> - -<p>Robert de Graystanes, one of the early chroniclers, states that Bishop -Anthony Bek erected the manor-house at Auckland, but from several -entries in the Boldon Book it is evident that the Bishops had a -residence there at the time that record was drawn up.</p> - -<p>The existing buildings are extensive, and are approached from the -market-place through a castellated gateway. One of the most prominent -and interesting features is the chapel, which was originally the great -hall. It was adapted for its present purpose and consecrated by Bishop -Cosin. Prior to the great Civil War, there were two<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_201">{201}</a></span> chapels, variously -referred to, and as early as 1338, as the major and the minor. One of -these was over the other, and they stood to the south of the castle -proper, near to a postern which opened on to a road outside the park. -When for a while the Episcopal Church was abolished by a Puritan -Government, and the old story of spiteful spoliation began, Auckland -Palace was sold to Sir Arthur Heslerigg for £6,102 8s. 11½d. This -redoubtable worthy appears to have dismantled a considerable portion of -the buildings. He blew up the chapels,<a id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> and commenced to alter the -place to suit his own ideas.</p> - -<p>It seems probable that Sir Arthur left his projected buildings in an -unfinished state, for when Bishop Cosin came to his diocese at the -Restoration, he wrote that the castle "had been pul’d down and ruined." -The Bishop commenced an extensive restoration, and a number of -interesting letters and agreements have been preserved showing the -progress made.</p> - -<p>As it now stands, the chapel is divided into nave and aisles by arcades, -each of four bays. The supporting pillars are clearly those described by -Leland, who, speaking of the great hall, says: "There be divers pillars -of black marble speckled with white." Each pillar consists of four -clustered cylindrical shafts, two being of Weardale marble, and two of -freestone. The four pillars nearest the west are banded half-way up, and -the capitals of the two western pillars are carved with foliage, the -north-western showing also the spiral scroll or volute. The capitals of -the other pillars and the bases of all are moulded, the latter resting -on square plinths.</p> - -<p>The arches are richly moulded, and have labels terminating in carved -ornaments. They rest at the east end on responds of three clustered -shafts, two of marble, and one of freestone, with moulded capitals and -bases.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_202">{202}</a></span> At the west end the arches rest on highly ornamental corbels. -Each of the latter consists in its lower portion of two carved heads, -the northernmost being of Bishops wearing mitres, and the southern of -crowned Kings. From within the mitres and crowns rise dwarfed shafts -with Late Transitional foliage carved on the bells. Each capital is -surmounted with a square moulded abacus, on which rest the bases of a -triplet of dwarfed, clustered shafts corresponding to those in the piers -of the arcades. In the spandrels between the arches, on both sides, are -carved corbels; those on the inner side carry single cylindrical shafts -surmounted by moulded capitals, and originally carried the pendant posts -of the roof. The outer corbels supported the rafters of the aisle roofs. -There is now but little doubt that this portion of the building was -erected by Bishop Pudsey.</p> - -<p>Bishop Hatfield made further improvements, inserting the windows still -existing. At a much later period, as already mentioned, Bishop Cosin -altered and restored the castle, which he appears to have made his -favourite residence. He certainly took great delight and pride in -improving his country home. Most of the fine woodwork in the chapel is -his work—the roof, mouldings, and the great screen at the west end -being particularly noteworthy.</p> - -<p>Since his time the chapel has been but little altered. Bishop Van -Mildert refloored it, and Bishop Lightfoot erected a new reredos, and -filled most of the windows with stained glass.</p> - -<p>The other portions of the castle have been considerably modernized, and -bear but little resemblance to Pennant’s picture of it. The room which -he describes as "below stairs," and having painted on the old wainscot -"the arms of a strange assemblage of potentates, from Queen Elizabeth, -with all the European princes, to the Emperors of Abissinia, -Bildelgerid, Carthage, and Tartaria, sixteen peers of the same reign, -knights of the garter, and above</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_034" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_202fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_202fp.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Lumley Castle.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_203">{203}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">them the arms of every bishoprick in England," is now used as the -housekeeper’s storeroom.</p> - -<p>The wing containing the servants’ hall (on the ceiling of which is a -plaster shield of Bishop Tunstall’s arms) and the dining-room was -commenced by Bishop Ruthall, and completed by the former prelate. The -arms of both Bishops appear on the exterior of the building. Adjoining -this wing to the west is another of some length, still known by the -curious name of <i>Scotland</i>, and undoubtedly erected by Tunstall. No very -satisfactory reason has been offered for the derivation of its name.</p> - -<p>Brancepeth Castle stands within a mile from the River Wear, a little to -the south of the village of the same name. There was undoubtedly a -castle there in the twelfth century, towards the end of which it passed, -by the marriage of Emma, widow of Peter de Valoignes, and only child of -Bertram de Bulmer, to Geoffrey de Neville, from the former to the latter -family.</p> - -<p>The present castle is stated by Leland to have been erected by Ralph, -first Earl of Westmorland. It was defended north and east by a moat; -south and west the walls rise from a rock nearly forty feet in height. -The original gateway, defended by a portcullis and flanked by square -towers, stood on the site of the present gate, and was approached from -the north. It has been destroyed. It opened directly into the courtyard, -south-west of which are the residential parts of the castle.</p> - -<p>There were, when Hutchinson wrote, four towers, closely conjoined. Three -of these remain, containing respectively the dining-room, saloon, and -the baron’s hall. The destroyed tower stood north of the last mentioned, -but was not so high. It contained three stories, and was probably, as -Mr. Boyle has suggested, the great hall.</p> - -<p>The projecting angles of the towers are surmounted by small turrets, -eight in number, the arrangement consisting of two sides rising directly -from the sides of the buttresses<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_204">{204}</a></span> on which they are built, whilst the -other two are machicolated, the parapets resting on corbels.</p> - -<p>Two other towers now standing at either end of the billiard-room are -respectively used as the chapel and the library. The castle possesses a -number of other interesting features.</p> - -<p>Amongst the pictures is one by Hogarth, painted for the first Viscount -Boyne, and representing several members of the <i>Hell-fire Club</i>. They -are supposed to have assembled in a wine-cellar, and resolved not to -part until its contents have been consumed. Sir Philip Hoby is depicted -sitting on a cask of claret. Immediately behind him, with his hand held -up, is Mr. De Grey, and below him is Lord John Cavendish, who has drawn -a spigot from the cask to let the wine flow into a bowl. Lord Sandwich -is kneeling down, holding a bottle to his mouth. Lord Galway lies -extended on a form, in such a position that the liquor from a cask above -him is flowing into his mouth. The arrangement of the four central -figures is a clever imitation of a statue of <i>Charity</i> shown in the -cellar.</p> - -<p>There is some fine armour in the present and modern great hall, amongst -others a suit richly inlaid in gold, and traditionally said to have been -taken from the Scottish King after the Battle of Neville’s Cross, -although really it is of Elizabethan date.</p> - -<p>The existing castle in Durham City, long the principal seat of the -Episcopal Princes, largely helps, with its frowning walls and grim -battlements, standing side by side with the cathedral, to make Durham -one of the most picturesque cities in this country.</p> - -<p>The castle is approached from the north-west corner of the Palace Green, -a short avenue leading to the gateway, which was modernized by Bishop -Barrington. The iron-bound gates were placed there by Bishop Tunstall, -and one of them contains a wicket which is the subject of one of -Spearman’s amusing anecdotes. He states that Bishop Crewe had been -pressing Dr. Grey, Rector of Bishopwear<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_205">{205}</a></span>mouth, and Dr. Morton, Rector of -Boldon, to read King James’s declaration for a dispensing power in their -parish churches. Both declined and began to argue against it, when the -Bishop appears to have lost his temper. He told Dr. Grey that his age -made him dote, and that he had forgotten his learning. "The good old -Doctor briskly replied he had forgott more learning than his Lordship -ever had. ‘Well,’ said the Bishop, ‘I’ll forgive and reverence you, but -cannot pardon that blockhead Morton, whom I raised from nothing.’ They -thereupon took their leave of the Bishop, who with great civility waited -upon them towards the gate, and ye porter opening ye wikett or posterne -only, ye Bishop said, ‘Sirrah, why don’t you open ye great gates?’ ‘No,’ -says ye Reverend Dr. Grey, ‘my Lord, wee’le leave <i>ye broad way</i> to your -lordship, <i>ye strait way</i> will serve us.’"</p> - -<p>The gateway leads directly into the courtyard. A door and flight of -steps in the wall to the left leads into the Fellows’ Garden, formerly -the private garden of the Bishops, through which they could enter Bishop -Cosin’s library.</p> - -<p>Crossing the court to the left, the first building approached is partly -of early Norman date, with additions by Bishop Fox, and a later -restoration by Bishop Cosin, whose arms, impaling the see, are upon the -front. It is now used entirely as students’ quarters.</p> - -<p>A portico farther along the court leads into the great hall, erected by -Bishop Anthony Bek. The hall measures 101 feet long by 35 feet wide, and -was restored somewhere about 1850.</p> - -<p>The window at the north end was filled with stained glass in 1882 to -commemorate the jubilee of the University.</p> - -<p>The walls are hung with paintings, and include:</p> - -<p>1. A collection of thirteen portraits of English Archbishops and -Bishops, said to have been made by Bishop Cosin.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_206">{206}</a></span></p> - -<p>2. Ten pictures of the Apostles, which were taken at St. Mary’s, in -Spain, in the expedition under the Duke of Ormond, and purchased by the -Dean and Chapter in 1753.</p> - -<p>3. A number of portraits of prebendaries and professors.</p> - -<p>4. Portraits of Charles I., Bishop Cosin, and Charles II.</p> - -<p>On the same wall as the last-mentioned portraits the banners of the -Durham local volunteer companies, raised to defend the country at the -time of Napoleon’s threatened invasion, are suspended.</p> - -<p>A door at the north end of the hall leads to Bishop Cosin’s great -staircase, which is most handsomely carved.</p> - -<p>At the foot of the staircase a corridor, the woodwork of which -originally formed part of the same Bishop’s choir screen in the -cathedral, may be entered.</p> - -<p>The staircase itself, however, leads more directly to Bishop Tunstall’s -Gallery, and to several apartments, from one of which a door opens upon -the terrace on the north side of the castle.</p> - -<p>Tunstall’s Gallery contains several objects of interest, and the walls -are covered with sixteenth-century tapestry.</p> - -<p>Here also is the magnificent Norman doorway erected by Bishop Pudsey as -the entrance to his lower hall. From its position and the weathering of -the stonework, it is supposed to have originally been approached by a -stairway from the court; the case at the top must have been roofed with -open arcades at the sides.</p> - -<p>The present Senate-room of the University contains some good tapestry, -illustrating the life of Moses, and dating from the sixteenth century. -This room also contains a handsome carved fireplace, armorially -decorated, and evidently the work of Bishop James. In the centre are the -Royal Arms, Garter, and Motto. On either side are the arms of the -Palatinate impaling the Bishop’s dolphin and cross-crosslets, with the -James’s motto, "Dei Gratia Sum quod Sum."</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_035" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_206fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_206fp.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Hilton Castle West Front.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_207">{207}</a></span></p> - -<p>The adjoining anteroom contains several paintings, including portraits -of King James II. and his Queen, Mary of Modena.</p> - -<p>Leaving the county town behind, the picturesque outlines of Lumley -Castle may be seen for some miles from the train journeying to -Newcastle. It is situated about a mile from Chester-le-Street, but on -the opposite bank of the Wear. The place is first mentioned by Styr, the -son of Ulf, in a list of gifts made to St. Cuthbert.</p> - -<p>The castle is supposed to have been erected by Sir Ralph Lumley, who -obtained licences from Richard II. and Bishop Skirlaw to embattle his -house of Lumley. It is in arrangement a square courtyard, surrounded by -a quadrangle. Two of the fronts, the south and north, measure 65 yards 1 -foot in length, the other two 58 yards and 1 foot. Oblong towers, of -greater height than the main portions of each front, from which they -project, strengthen and guard each corner. The most exterior angle of -each tower is capped by a buttress.</p> - -<p>The west front is the oldest existing portion of the castle, and is -supposed to have been the Lumley manor-house, before Sir Ralph extended -and added to it.</p> - -<p>Originally the east side of it, that looking into the courtyard, was the -principal front, and in its centre the gateway, flanked by -semi-octagonal turrets, may still be seen. The front of the gateway is -formed of two arches, the outer segmental headed, and the inner one -pointed. Between these is the groove wherein the portcullis ran. The -arch leads to a vaulted passage which entered the original courtyard. On -the north side of the passage is a pointed doorway, leading into a -narrow corridor, having a latrine at its east end, and connected -originally with the gatekeeper’s room.</p> - -<p>The present gateway is in the centre of the east front, and has -incorporated with it an earlier round-headed archway, with -semi-octagonal jambs and moulded imposts. On either side of it is a -square turret, surmounted by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_208">{208}</a></span> octagonal machicolated parapets, the -alternate sides of which are embrasured.</p> - -<p>The turrets are joined by a machicolated gallery, defended by a -battlemented parapet. Above the door are six sculptured coats of arms. -Between the two highest, Neville and Percy, is the royal coat of Richard -II. Below is the Lumley coat, having on the sinister side the arms of -Grey, and on the dexter the coat of Hilton. The shields are all -surmounted by the respective family crests.</p> - -<p>A room on the south side of the gateway contains in its centre a flag, -which on being raised leaves open the entrance to a vaulted chamber -about 10 feet square and some 16 feet deep. From the existence of a -latrine, and a little ventilation from a small unglazed loophole looking -into the courtyard, it seems to have been intended as a safe place for -the custody of prisoners.</p> - -<p>In the north-east tower are two rooms, divided by a modern partition, -and showing evidence that they originally formed the private chapel of -the family. The south-east tower contains on its second floor the state -bedroom, in which King James I. is said to have slept when he visited -Lumley.</p> - -<p>In the north-west tower is the famous kitchen, which Howitt described as -"one of the most stupendous, lofty, and every way remarkable kitchens in -the kingdom." The south-west tower contains the banqueting-hall, -celebrated for its very fine stuccoed ceiling, part of the work -initiated by Richard, second Earl of Scarborough.</p> - -<p>Between the towers on the west side the main building forms the baron’s, -or great, hall, which probably remained unaltered from the time of Sir -Ralph to the early days of the century before last. The fireplace is the -work of John, Lord Lumley, and is decorated with the family arms, -impaling FitzAlan. Here also is a large equestrian statue, representing -Liulph, a traditional ancestor of the house. There are also a series of -interesting family portraits.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_209">{209}</a></span></p> - -<p>Not far from Lumley, Lambton Castle stands on the northern and opposite -bank of the river. The original home of the Lambton family was, however, -on the same bank as Lumley. According to an old view, it was a double -house of stone, with flanking, gabled wings, and the grounds laid out in -parterres and terraces. It remained the residence of the family, until -it was dismantled in 1797 by William Henry Lambton, who had adopted -Harraton Hall as the family seat.<a id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> - -<p>The present Lambton Castle<a id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> stands on the site and incorporates -portions of the original building of Harraton Hall, a manor-house -erected about the year 1600. Very considerable additions were made to -this hall by William Henry Lambton, grandfather of the late Lord Durham, -from designs by the elder Bonomi, in the Italian style. The first Lord -Durham also made considerable alterations and additions to the building -from plans furnished by Bonomi, the general appearance of the mansion -being entirely changed. The south front is in the Tudor style and -castellated, and the north is Norman.</p> - -<p>The great hall is panelled, and the windows are glazed with richly -stained glass, containing a representation of "Ye Legend of the Worme of -Lambton," and also the heraldic emblems of the family. The dimensions of -the hall are 94 feet by 36 feet, being larger than St. Stephen’s Hall, -Westminster. The principal staircase leading out<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_210">{210}</a></span> of the hall, -communicating with the upper apartments, is 24 feet wide and 36 feet -high. East of the hall is the dining-room and west is the drawing-room, -abutting on the terraces of the west lawn.</p> - -<p>Owing to the subsidence of the hill on which the castle stands, through -some old colliery workings underneath falling in, the castle had become, -when the second Earl succeeded to the estates, insecure. To meet this, -and strengthen the foundations, the workings, two seams deep, round the -castle, to the extent of 4½ acres, were filled up with débris. Three -seams lower still were bricked up, over 10,000,000 bricks being used, -and in several instances in the fourth seam the brickwork exceeded 30 -feet in height.</p> - -<p>Hilton Castle, like Lambton, stands on the north bank of the River Wear, -on a gentle slope commanding an extensive view of the valley to the -west.</p> - -<p>The present building, a melancholy-looking tower, is only the gatehouse -of the original castle. It is first mentioned in the inquisition -post-mortem of William de Hilton in 1435, when it is described as "a -house constructed of stone, called the Yethouse." The intention of the -original builder, the William just mentioned, was evidently to erect an -extensive mansion on a similar scale, but there is sufficient evidence -to show that he never completed the work.</p> - -<p>That there were other buildings probably surrounding a courtyard is -proved by various inventories. In 1559, after the death of Sir Thomas -Hilton, an inventory of his effects mentions the great chamber, the -green chamber, the middle and new chambers, the gallery, the wardrobe, -the parlour, the chamber over the hall door, and various out-buildings, -such as the brewhouse, buttery, and the barns. The tower is mentioned -separately, and the term evidently applies to the existing building.</p> - -<p>These surrounding buildings were probably removed by John Hilton, who -early in the eighteenth century built</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_036" style="width: 574px;"> -<a href="images/i_210fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_210fp.jpg" width="574" height="797" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Old Tower at Ravensworth Castle.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_211">{211}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">a large wing in the Italian style against the north end of the -gatehouse. This erection was three stories in height, having pedimented -windows in the two lower floors, and square-headed windows in the story -above. John Hilton also, to some extent, spoiled the ancient gatehouse -by inserting a number of similar pedimented windows in it. His son, the -last of the male line to own Hilton, and also named John, added a -similar south wing. Both these wings were castellated—at any rate, on -the east front.</p> - -<p>The castle passed by descent to the Musgraves, and afterwards by -successive sales to the Bowes and Briggs families, and again within the -last year or two to the Monkwearmouth Colliery Company.</p> - -<p>As it now stands, the tower presents a bold and picturesque outline. It -is divided, on the west front, into three bays by projecting, -square-shaped turrets. The main entrance is through the central bay, -over which is a fine array of heraldry. Immediately beneath the arcade, -the elaborately carved and projecting canopies of which fell in 1882, is -a banner and staff of the Royal Arms of France and England <i>temp.</i> Henry -V. Beneath the banner are the arms of Neville, Vesci, and Percy, and -amongst other coats represented are those of the families of Lumley, -Grey, Eure, Washington, Felton, Heron, Surtees, and Bowes. On the -right-hand turret, close to the entrance, beneath a canopy, is a large -banner of the Hilton arms. The east front shows a curious sculpture of -the family badge, <i>a roebuck collared and chained</i>. Below is the family -coat, accompanied with their curious crest—<i>the head of Moses, horned -with triple rays</i>.</p> - -<p>The battlements are exceedingly picturesque and decorated with numerous -statued figures, one of which apparently represents the slayer of the -Lambton Worm.</p> - -<p>The ancient family chapel stands in a semi-ruinous condition a little to -the north of the castle.</p> - -<p>Ravensworth Castle was erected towards the end of the thirteenth -century, and has belonged successively to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_212">{212}</a></span> Fitz-Marmadukes, Lumleys, -Boyntons, Gascoignes, and Liddells. It originally consisted of four -towers, one standing at each angle of a courtyard and joined by curtain -walls. Two of these towers still stand and form part of the present -castle, which was erected shortly after 1808, from designs by Nash. It -may be added that the castle was formerly known as Ravenshelm, -Ravensworth being the name of the adjoining village. Not far from the -castle, and near to the road leading to the north entrance, is an old -cross commonly known as the "Butter Cross." It is stated that the -country people left their produce here for the citizens of Newcastle to -take when that city was infested by the plague in the sixteenth century.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_037" style="width: 301px;"> -<a href="images/i_212.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_212.jpg" width="301" height="457" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Cross at Ravensworth.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>A few miles to the west, Gibside, a seat of the Earl of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_213">{213}</a></span> Strathmore, -stands in an exceedingly picturesque position. A terrace at the back of -the house stands above a sheer descent to an exceedingly wild glen. The -older portions of the building were erected by Sir William Blakiston, -who had inherited the estate from his grandmother, an heiress of the -Marley family, in the reign of James I. Over the entrance are the Royal -Arms, and the arms of Blakiston and Marley quarterly with the initials -W. I. B. for Sir William and his wife Jane Lambton. There is also an -interesting sundial inscribed with the motto <i>Ut hora, sic vita</i>. The -old drawing-room has a large fireplace, with figures of Samson and -Hercules at either side, and above a further heraldic display of the -family alliances.</p> - -<p>There are four baronial mansions lying between the Wear and the Tees.</p> - -<p>Barnard Castle, once a residence of the princely house of Baliol, has -for long years been a ruin.</p> - -<p>Originally erected by Bernard de Baliol, son of Guy de Baliol, Lord of -Bailleul en Vimeu in Picardy, and founder also of Baynard’s Castle in -London, it passed on the attainder of his descendant John Baliol, -sometime King of Scotland, in 1296 to Bishop Bek. A few years later -Edward I. severed the Durham fees of Bruce and Baliol from the control -of the Palatinate and granted Barnard Castle to the Beauchamps. By -marriage the estate passed to the Nevilles, and by marriage again to the -Crown. Later it passed to the Vanes, who hold it still. The castle, -which was of some size and great strength, stands in a commanding -position above the River Tees. A great portion of the remaining -buildings dates from Norman times. One of the towers is still known as -the Brackenbury Tower, evidently deriving its name from the family of -the famous Constable of the Tower of London. The castle is also -associated with Richard III., whose badge of "the hog" occurs in one of -the rooms.</p> - -<p>Not far from Barnard, Streatlam Castle stands in a valley between that -town and Raby. It has remained<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_214">{214}</a></span> the property of the descendants of the -owners in the twelfth century to this day, although it has passed by -marriage successively to the Traynes, Boweses, and Lyons. The existing -castle includes some portions of the structure erected by old Sir -William Bowes. This Sir William is stated on the death of his young wife -Jane, daughter of Lord Greystock, under the age of twenty, to have gone -to the wars in France, where for some years he was Chamberlain to the -Regent, the Duke of Bedford. Sometime about 1450 he pulled down the -older castle at Streatlam, and erected a new one from designs he had -brought from France. His arms are on the north front of the castle, -which has been altered frequently since his time. A good portion of it -was pulled down by William Blakiston Bowes, who died in 1721, leaving -his alterations incomplete.</p> - -<p>Raby Castle, one of the finest baronial piles in the North of England, -and for many centuries the great seat of the princely house of Neville, -would require, to deal with it in justice, more pages than a volume of -limited space can afford. A few of its leading features must, however, -be mentioned. Portions of the present building were erected by Ralph, -Lord Neville, one of the commanders at Neville’s Cross, who died in -1367. His son John carried on the work, and in 1378 obtained a licence -from Bishop Hatfield to embattle and crenellate his manor-house at Raby. -In aspect the castle consists of buildings forming a rough square, with -towers projecting from three of the corners, the whole enclosing a -courtyard. The four outer sides face the cardinal points. Some distance -from the main building, a wall 30 feet high with a deep moat on its -outer side entirely enclosed it. The main entrance is guarded by a large -tower thrown forward in a flanking position, rendering the approach -exceedingly difficult to an opposing force. This building is known as -Clifford’s Tower. At the south end of a curtain wall running southwards -stands the Watch Tower, which has, however, been considerably -modernized. Adjoining the great gatehouse,</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_038" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_214fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_214fp.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Streatlam Castle.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_215">{215}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">which is the work of at least two builders, is the tower which Leland -says bears the name of Joan, wife of the first Earl of Westmorland. East -of Joan’s Tower is another stretch of curtain wall now containing the -drawing-rooms, and terminating at Bulmer’s Tower, an interesting -building in shape an irregular pentagon. On the upper story of this -tower is the badge of the builder, a large Old English <span class="eng">b</span>, doubtless like -the bull, their other badge, derived from the Bulmers.</p> - -<p>A block of modern buildings adjoining the Bulmer Tower adjoins a tower, -from which a corridor enters the great hall, 90 feet long and 35 feet -wide. Close to the hall is the kitchen, which has been preserved in all -its original quaintness. Over a passage leading from the east side of -the great hall is the chapel. A short curtain wall connects this portion -of the building with the Mount Raskelf Tower, evidently named after a -manor owned by the Nevilles in Yorkshire. It is rather curious to -observe that the Christian names Ralph and Henry, which occur so -frequently in old northern families, are the predominating names -respectively of the great houses of Neville and Percy.</p> - -<p>Walworth Castle, a large, picturesque old house, was erected by the -Jenisons in or about the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The north front, -flanked by two projecting wings, has a centre three stories high -terminating in a balustraded parapet. The south front has a circular -tower at each end. The windows were originally decorated with fine old -painted glass of heraldic design, which has been almost entirely -destroyed in modern times. Some fragments have, however, been gathered -together and are preserved in a window in the corridor. Here King James -I. was entertained and slept on his progress to the South in 1603.</p> - -<p>Inferior to the larger houses, there were in the county several -buildings of great strength coming under the same head as the -<i>peel-houses</i> or <i>towers</i> on the borders.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_216">{216}</a></span></p> - -<p>One of these, now only represented by a few portions of the outer walls, -was Dalden Tower. The buildings appear to have formed a tower rather -longer than square, standing on a slight mound. The walls were of -rubble, 5 feet thick. In the east wall there is a square-headed niche, -surmounted by a pediment within an ogee-headed arch, the space within -which is filled with tracery. Two blank shields are upon a cornice over -the pediment. The niche seems to point to the room once adjoining having -been the private chapel. On the inner side of the curtain facing the -west wall there appears to have been a cell with a loophole.</p> - -<p>A more recent manor-house was built about the reign of James I., -adjoining the tower on the east, and portions of it are built into the -present farmhouse. For some generations it was a seat of the Royalist -family of Collingwood, and, at an earlier date, of a branch of the great -house of Bowes. It was a lady of this family, Maud, wife of Sir William -Bowes and heiress of Sir Robert Dalden, who possessed within the old -walls a curious library. In her will, made in 1420, she left to Matilda -Hilton <i>one Romaunce-boke</i>, to Dame Eleanor Washington <i>the boke with -the knotts</i>, to Elizabeth de Whitchester a book that is called -<i>Trystram</i>, and to her god-daughter Maud, daughter of the Baron of -Hilton, <i>one Romaunce boke is called the Gospells</i>. Surtees pertinently -writes: "Did a romance ever actually exist under this strange title? or -had the lady of Dalden met with one of Wicliffe’s Bibles, and conceived -the Gospels to be a series of fabulous adventures, in which our Saviour -and His Apostles were introduced to act and to moralize like the goodly -personages who figure in the ancient mysteries, or in <i>Les Jeux du Roi -René d’Anjou</i>"?</p> - -<p>Farther to the south an old tower, oblong in shape stood at Little Eden. -It was, however, taken down in the early days of last century by Mr. -Rowland Burdon, who erected the present castellated house at Castle -Eden.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_217">{217}</a></span> At Dinsdale, on the banks of the Tees, the remains of the ancient -home of the Surtees family were excavated by the late Mr. Scott Surtees, -and showed that a large gatehouse of late twelfth-century work, with -vaulted chambers and a newel stair, had once stood there.</p> - -<p>The later manor-house of the Place family retains some portions of the -older building. With thick walls and low rooms with heavy beams and -rafters, and an old oak staircase with a wicket, it still remains a -picturesque fragment of former days. A stone originally fixed over a -gateway destroyed shortly before Hutchinson compiled his history is now -let into the wall on the left of the farmhouse door, and bears the arms -of Place quarterly with Surtees.</p> - -<p>The home of the Surtees’s neighbours, the allied and equally noble house -of Conyers, was at Sockburn, situated on the same sweep of the Tees. -Traces of the foundations of gardens and orchards alone point out the -site of the old house, where Dugdale in 1666 had noted the family -emblazonments in or on the building—the arms of Conyers, Vesci, Scrope, -Neville, Dacre, FitzHugh, Lumley, and of the Royal Family. Surtees -suggests that seven of the coats seem to have formed a rich armorial -window, and that amidst them ran the motto, "<small>REGI SECVLOR I’ MORTALI I’ -VISIBILI SOLI DEO HONOR ET GLORIA I’ SECVLA SECVLOR</small>." When the historian -wrote, "one old decaying Spanish chestnut" seemed alone to connect the -deserted spot with some recollection of its ancient owners. Of the old -house not one stone remains. A new house was erected about a century ago -by the baronet family of Blackett, who for some generations have owned -the manor. Here the far-famed Conyers falchion is preserved. The sword -dates from the thirteenth century, and has a blade 2 feet and 5½ inches -long. The handle is partly covered with ash, and has on the pommel two -shields, the three lions of England, and an eagle displayed. The cross -is engraved with decorative foliage of the period.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_218">{218}</a></span></p> - -<p>One of the most interesting specimens of the older fortified residences -was Ludworth Tower.<a id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> The building, which consisted of a -three-storeyed oblong tower of common limestone, stands near a brook, on -a low hill, at the head of the valley in which Shadforth village lies. A -lower vaulted room up till recently still contained a large open -fireplace and hearthstone. The only entrance was by a small arched door -leading to a spiral stone staircase, projecting from the north-west -angle of the tower. Remnants of a curtain wall exist to the east, and on -the west the adjoining ground has apparently been levelled by hand.</p> - -<p>The whole appearance of the building, which has, unfortunately, in -recent years<a id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> been allowed to fall into a ruinous condition, was dark -and gloomy in the extreme. The date of its erection is fixed by the -licence obtained in 1422 by Sir Thomas Holden to embattle his -manor-house of Ludworth.</p> - -<p>At Bellasis, or Belasyse, another old house, with stone walls of great -thickness and moated, is now occupied by a farmer.</p> - -<p>Hollinside, an old mansion, associated with the Hardings, of whom Ralph -Harding the chronicler was a noteworthy member, still stands in ruins on -a bank above the River Derwent. Originally three stories in height, and -with two wings forming the three sides of a narrow court. The fourth and -east side is arched over and surmounted by a tower. On the west side a -turret projects in line with the south wall. The interior presents -several interesting features, and an outbuilding contains a large -fireplace.</p> - -<p>Passing from the great homes of the county, and the older fortified -towers, we come to the time when, with the greater security accorded to -the minor gentry,</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_039" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_218fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_218fp.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Raby Castle in 1783.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_219">{219}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">numerous manor-houses and country granges began to rise.</p> - -<p>Even at this time, spoiled as the county is for residential purposes, it -requires no strong effort of the imagination to picture the county as it -was in later Tudor times. The Bishops, greater than ever through the -collapse of the Nevilles, still appointed their foresters, and doubtless -often made the dales resound with all the view-halloo of a gay hunt. -Durham City became a stronghold of great ecclesiastical families, the -sons and daughters of the prebendaries intermarrying with one another, -and the descendants of successive Bishops allied themselves by cross -marriages. In the country better farmsteads became erected, and -throughout the shire the landowners began to erect more commodious -residences. It is, with one or two exceptions, from this period that the -older halls and manor-houses still in existence date. It must not be -forgotten that there were at this time no great landowners in the county -in the sense that we now understand the term, and almost every village -had its own predominating squire.</p> - -<p>A few houses still remain, not so strongly built as the peel-towers, yet -well adapted to defence. Holmside Hall is one of these. Once one of the -principal seats of the great House of Tempest, it was forfeited by -Robert of that name, who, with his son Michael, had joined the Earls in -their rebellion, and therefore appears in Hall and Humberston’s Survey -as a "capital messuage, with all the housings built of stone and covered -with slate, with the orchards and gardens, within a park containing -three acres." Now sufficient remains to show that once the buildings -were ranged round a court and surrounded by a moat. The north side was -faced by the chapel containing a still perfect west window of two -trefoil-headed lights under a square label, with the cinquefoil of the -Umphrevilles and two blank shields in the spandrels. Above the window "a -mutilated figure is fixed to the wall, with a full-moony<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_220">{220}</a></span> face, and a -kind of round helmet," of which Surtees writes: "I should almost -conjecture this to be a rude piece of Roman sculpture, removed from the -station, which may possibly have furnished the coins and squared stones -used in building this chantry."</p> - -<p>The house itself is a curiously confused building of many different -periods of architecture. The original gables were pulled down and the -house enlarged to the south. The windows are mullioned and narrow and -guarded with iron bars.</p> - -<p>After the Tempests’ fall the estate became the property of William -Whittingham, the bigoted Calvinist Dean, whose name deserves perpetual -execration as the destroyer of much that was old and beautiful in Durham -Abbey. It is possible that in the austere gloom that even now pervades -the old house at Holmeside, he might find something sympathetic with his -own strange faith.</p> - -<p>The Isle, another Tempest residence, stands on low ground, surrounded by -marshes caused through risings of the Skerne. It is a picturesque place, -with projecting gables and narrow mullioned lights. It was the residence -of Colonel John Tempest, first M.P. for Durham County, and still belongs -to the Marquess of Londonderry as representative of his family.</p> - -<p>Sledwish Hall, standing lonely and sequestered, is a place of "ghastly -grey renown." Upwards of a hundred years ago the bones of an infant were -found interred in a stone coffin in the field adjoining. The house, too, -like most of these old mansions, is supposed to contain secret passages -and rooms. Portions of the present building, more particularly the south -front, date back to Plantagenet times, but the house as it now stands is -an interesting specimen of Tudor architecture. It was rebuilt by John -Clopton, Queen Elizabeth’s Receiver, his great work being the ceiling in -the Orchard Chamber. This is divided into compartments by deep -mouldings, ornamented by numerous crowned roses, fleurs-de-lis, and -pomegranates. In the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_221">{221}</a></span> centre is a shield bearing his family arms, a -quarterly shield, first and fourth, <i>paly a lion rampant</i>, and second -and third <i>a cross pattee fitchée</i>, over all a crescent for difference. -The arms are reversed through the artist having formed his mould without -considering that the impression was the final result. Two other shields -impressed from the same mould bear the initials E. C. (evidently for the -builder’s wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Ashton of Great Lever, in -Lancashire), the date 1584, and "a <i>tun</i> with a rose <i>clapt on</i>."<a id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> -Above this shield is a rose surrounded by three crowns. At the four -corners of the room are large decorative groups; two are falcons with -pomegranates, the third is a swan, and the fourth a boar under an -oak-tree devouring an acorn. A deep cornice running round the whole -ceiling is decorated with repeated devices of the Royal lion and the -Welsh dragon supporting the crowned rose, the whole evidently symbolic -of Good Queen Bess. There are several other good rooms, and a large -chimney at the south-west is supported outside by three double brackets.</p> - -<p>There are several other interesting mansions in this district. At -Cleatlam the old mansion of the Ewbankes still stands, gable-ended, with -mullioned windows. It was sold by them in the troublous times of the -great Civil War to the Somersets of Pauntley in Gloucester, and later -was a seat of the Wards. Another old home of the Ewbanke family was -Staindrop Hall, at the east end of the village of that name. The family -arms, <i>three chevronels interlaced and on a chief three pellets</i>, are on -one of the ceilings. Still another old house, once belonging to the same -race, was Snotterton Hall, which stood about a mile to the west of -Staindrop. Here the walls were embattled with crocketed pinnacles at the -corners, and the windows were triple mullioned lights under square -labels. Over the entrance the arms and crest of the Bainbridges, who -sold the estate to the Ewbankes in 1607, were sculptured. A portion of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_222">{222}</a></span> -the house which was pulled down in 1831 is preserved in the present Raby -Grange.</p> - -<p>Westholme Hall is another existing good specimen of Jacobean -architecture. It consists of a main building, with two gabled wings and -mullioned windows. The date 1606, and the name <small>IOHN DOWTHET</small> on a -chimney-piece in the hall, points to its erection by the Douthwaites, -who purchased the estate from the Boweses in 1603. Erected about the -same period, Gainford Hall still stands at the west end of the village. -It, too, has gable ends and mullioned windows, and several of the rooms -are wainscotted. One of the latter has a stuccoed border of flowers and -fruit. Over the door is the three-garbed chevron of the Cradocks and the -inscription <small>IOHN : CRADOCK 1600</small>.</p> - -<p>At Bishop Middleham a large old gable-ended house has a doorway with -jambs and a pediment of carved freestone. It stands on the west side of -the road leading to the church, and was originally the property of the -Wards, one of whom was Master of Sidney-Sussex College at Cambridge. In -1738 it was the residence of Thomas Brunskill, whose daughter or -granddaughter married Edward Watson, of Ingleby Greenhow, in Yorkshire.</p> - -<p>Another picturesque fragment of the past is the old house now standing -at the western end of Thorpe Thewles village. It is built of brick, with -low rooms, and is locally stated to have been visited by Queen Anne. The -tradition may possibly be a survival of one of our sovereigns’ passage -through the county, but it is impossible that any crowned head can ever -have rested in this old mansion. A few fields away a wing of the once -great house at Blakiston still stands. It alone remains to show where -the birthplace of one of our great old families once stood, and is the -only remnant of the later home of the loyal house of Davison, two of -whom were slain at the storming of Newcastle in 1644.</p> - -<p>Cotham Conyers, or Cotham Stob, derives its affix name</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_040" style="width: 560px;"> -<a href="images/i_222fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_222fp.jpg" width="560" height="467" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Gainford Hall.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_223">{223}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_041" style="width: 590px;"> -<a href="images/i_223.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_223.jpg" width="590" height="469" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Old Hall at Thorpe Thewles.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">from its erstwhile owners, the Conyers, and is another old gable-ended -manor-house. It stands, surrounded by elms, near to a brook. The rooms -are wainscotted, and over the fireplace in one of the rooms there was a -hunting scene on the panel, depicting a stag at bay. One of the upper -rooms was hung with tapestry. The estate was forfeited by the Conyers -through Ralph Conyers having taken part in the Earls’ rebellion in 1569. -Lying almost midway between the two Conyers’ seats of Cotham and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_224">{224}</a></span> -Sockburn stands the old home of the Killinghalls and Pembertons, at -Middleton St. George. The house formerly contained a painting, by -Francis Place, of "A Pointer and Pheasants." An old cross in the garden -is said to have been brought from Neasham Abbey.</p> - -<p>Passing to the west of Darlington again, near the highroad leading to -Staindrop, stands Thornton Hall, for many years the residence of a -branch of the baronial family of Tailbois. It is a stone house, with -high pitched gables, old-world red tiles, and mullioned windows, and has -long been used as a farmhouse. Above the window over the main entrance -are two gargoyles. An interesting account of this house, with a number -of good sketches, may be found in Mr. G. A. Fothergill’s <i>Sketch-book</i>.</p> - -<p>Several miles north of Thornton, a small old mansion with gables and -mullions may be seen at School Aycliffe, and not very far away, in a -north-westerly direction, the old grange of Midridge stands within an -old walled garden, with a row of old elms leading along the road from -the south. The house is a large treble-gable-ended building, and is said -to have been garrisoned by the Loyalist owner, Anthony Byerley, who was -a Colonel in the Royal army. His troopers are still locally known as -"Byerley’s Bull Dogs." A little to the south-west, the old house of -Newbiggin stands low, with solid stone walls, and the main staircase of -the same substantial material. There was formerly a tower on the west -end of the house.</p> - -<p>The hall at Coxhoe, erected about the year 1725 by John Burdon, has a -richly decorated interior of contemporary date. In this house Elizabeth -Barrett Browning was born on March 6, 1806.</p> - -<p>The northern portion of the county does not contain so many houses of -interest as the southern; there are, however, a few interesting -mansions.</p> - -<p>Fen Hall, near Lanchester, is an interesting old house,</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_042" style="width: 444px;"> -<a href="images/i_224fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_224fp.jpg" width="444" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fen Hall.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_225">{225}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">dating from the Stuart period. It has the Greenwell arms over the -entrance, and is now fast falling into a ruinous condition.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_043" style="width: 290px;"> -<a href="images/i_225.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_225.jpg" width="290" height="561" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">A Corner of Washington Hall.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Washington Hall, a large, old stone mansion, built in the form of an <span class="sans">E</span>, -with high-pitched roof and gable-ends, stands to the south side of the -low hill on which the church is built. The lights are divided by stone -mullions and transoms. It was erected by the family of James, possibly -by the Bishop, and was, in Hutchinson’s time,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_226">{226}</a></span> the seat of the -Bracks.<a id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> It is now, like the old hall at Rainton, in a pitiable -state, and let in tenements.</p> - -<p>In the neighbourhood of Sunderland there are several interesting houses. -High Barnes, for long the home of the Ettricks, is now a convent, and -has been considerably altered. Low Barnes, the Pembertons’ old home, is -let to a laundry company. Ford Hall is a comparatively modern house, but -is interesting as having been the birthplace of General Havelock. -Pallion Hall, an old stone mansion, has recently been pulled down.</p> - -<p>The old hall at West Boldon is more modern, having been erected in 1709 -by the Fawcetts. The house has the arms of that family over the main -entrance, and several of the rooms are wainscotted. A quaint record of -another generation may well be noted in the late Mr. Boyle’s own words: -"On one of the window-panes in a bedroom, in a neat hand of the early -part of last century, someone has written with a diamond:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Beautifull Grace Andrew."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">On the next pane, in equally delicate script, another hand has added:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Fair written Name, yet fairer in my heart,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">No Diamond cutts so deep as Cupid’s Dart."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Travelling by railway from Boldon to Newcastle, the house now known as -the Mulberry Inn is a familiar object, just outside of Felling station. -It has been a picturesque building, and for long was the residence of -the Brandlings. It is now undergoing a serious alteration. A small -stone<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_227">{227}</a></span> summer-house, once in the garden, still stands on one of the -station platforms.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_044" style="width: 282px;"> -<a href="images/i_227.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_227.jpg" width="282" height="507" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">The Doorway, West Rainton Hall.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Kibblesworth Hall, a few miles south of Gateshead, is a solid Jacobean -brick house, with stone-mullioned, square-headed windows. It has a fine -oak staircase, and some of the fireplaces and cornices are of -contemporary date. The house has been let in tenements to the pitmen of -the adjoining colliery, the stables turned into cottages, and the -gardens into allotments. Another old house that has undergone a similar -fate is West Rainton Hall, erected about 1690 by Sir John Duck, Bart. It -stands on the main street of the village, shorn of the battlements -men<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_228">{228}</a></span>tioned by Surtees, but still retaining a fine old doorway, -reminiscent of its better days.</p> - -<p>There are also in this district several other old houses dismantled and -in tenements, betokening the scattering of their once owners to many far -lands. It is a pleasure to turn from these to a few houses still in good -condition. The Hall,<a id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Houghton-le-Spring, was perhaps erected by -Robert Hutton, Rector of Houghton, between the years 1589 and 1623, -although its erection is more popularly attributed to his grandson and -namesake. This later Robert Hutton was Captain of a troop of horse in -the Parliamentary army, and, like Dobson of Harlow Hill,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2">" ... went to Dundee<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And when he came back<br /></span> -<span class="i2">held his head hee."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">With the proceeds of this expedition he is supposed to have built the -house in which his descendants dwelt for many generations. To satisfy -some scruple of his conscience, or, according to another story, to lie -near a favourite horse, he was buried in his garden under an altar-tomb, -inscribed:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>"Hic Jacet Robertvs Hvtton armiger qvi obiit Avg die nono 1680. Et -moriendo vivet." </p></div> - -<p>Stella Hall, a picturesque Elizabethan structure, situated close to the -River Tyne, was erected by the Tempests on the site of a nunnery, and -still contains some tapestry representing the story of Hero and Leander.</p> - -<p>Scattered up and down the dales are many other old homes that a writer -dealing with his homeland would love to touch upon, but space forbids. -Even these short notes are all too short. The old mansions of our -countryside are a much neglected feature of archæology, and each house -in itself demands photographs and drawings and a chapter quite as long -as this.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_229">{229}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="DURHAM_ASSOCIATIONS_OF_JOHN_WESLEY"></a>DURHAM ASSOCIATIONS OF JOHN WESLEY<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By the Rev. T. Cyril Dale, B.A.</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span> PACKET of old letters suggests many questions as to the writers, whom -they have long survived. Nor is this curiosity diminished when one of -the correspondents has achieved a world-wide fame, so that there is no -portion of the globe where his name is not known. For then one desires -to know who were the people whom he honoured with his friendship, and to -scan the letters closely to see if they throw any new light upon the -character of the writer. There are in existence seventeen letters -written by John Wesley to a member of a family once well-known in the -county of Durham. Originally there were thirty letters, as appears from -the numbering of those which remain, but where the other letters are the -writer does not know.<a id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> These seventeen letters, two of them being -only copies of the originals, came into the possession of the Rev. -Thomas Dale, Canon of St. Paul’s from 1843-70, and from him passed to -his eldest son, the Rev. Thomas Pelham Dale (1821-92), at one time -well-known as the Rector of St. Vedast in the city of London.<a id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> They -were written to Miss Margaret<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_230">{230}</a></span> Dale, second daughter of Edward Dale<a id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> -of Tunstall, who, owing to the extinction (as it seems) of the elder -branch of the family in the male line, was head of the family of Dale, -first of Dalton le Dale, and then of Tunstall. This Edward Dale was the -son of Thomas Dale by his wife Margaret, daughter and co-heiress of -George Middleton of Silksworth. Through her Burke, who was far too -amiable a genealogist to doubt the assertions of any one respecting his -ancestors, however remote, traces the descent of Edward Dale from -Gundreda, daughter of William the Conqueror. The curious will find the -descent set out at length in Burke’s <i>Royal Family</i>, Pedigree XVI. -Edward Dale married Eleanor, youngest of the three daughters of the Rev. -John Lawrence, Rector of Bishop’s Wearmouth. Mr. Lawrence (1668-1732) -was in his day a well-known writer on horticulture, and has, as a -consequence, a niche in that temple of fame—the <i>Dictionary of National -Biography</i>. It is related that when in 1721 he was appointed to the -Rectory, he was so obnoxious to the principal inhabitants of his parish, -owing to his Hanoverian proclivities, that when he was "reading himself -in" the three chief landowners of the place—John Goodchild of Pallion, -John Pemberton of Bainbridge Holme, and Thomas Dale of Tunstall—walked -out of the church as a protest against his appointment.<a id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> By a kind of -poetic justice, his three daughters married into the families of the -three protesters. His eldest daughter married the above-named John -Goodchild, his two younger daughters the sons and heirs of John -Pemberton and Thomas Dale. Only unfortunately for the completeness of -the tale, the two last marriages did not take place till after the death -of John Lawrence.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_231">{231}</a></span></p> - -<p>By Eleanor Lawrence, Edward Dale had three daughters—Mary, Margaret, -and Anne—and one son, also called Edward. He died when his eldest -daughter was only eleven and his son still an infant.</p> - -<p>Margaret Dale no doubt made the acquaintance of John Wesley through his -devoted adherent, Margaret Lewen. Miss Lewen, the only child of Thomas -Lewen of Kibblesworth, while still a girl of about twenty-two, was -attracted by the preaching of John Wesley during his visit to the North -in the year 1764. Wesley, in his famous "Diary," speaks of her as being -"a remarkable monument of Divine mercy. She broke through all -hindrances, and joined heart and hand with the children of God." She was -"a pattern to all young women of fortune in England." Margaret Lewen was -certainly exceedingly liberal. "In works of benevolence and Christian -zeal, she cheerfully expended an ample income" (Stamp: Orphan House of -Wesley, London, 1863). Wesley says she had about £600 a year "in her own -hands." On one of his visits to the North she gave him a chaise and a -pair of horses. Now, Margaret Lewen was very intimate with the Dale -girls, and it was probably through her influence that they came into -contact with the great preacher. Whether any letters were written to the -other sisters is not known, but they can hardly have been so numerous or -more intimate than those written to Margaret Dale.</p> - -<p>The first letter extant is written from Portpatrick, and is dated June -1, 1765, when Margaret Dale was still two or three months short of -twenty-one. It begins: "My Dear Miss Peggy," and ends, "I trust you will -be happier every day; and that you will not forget, my Dear Sister, your -Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley." The letter is occupied with spiritual -counsels, and questions about her spiritual health. He inquires: "How -far do you find Power over your Thoughts? Does not your imagination -sometimes wander? Do those imaginations continue for any time?" It is -clear, from Wesley’s next letter, written from Kilkenny, dated July 5, -1765, that Miss Peggy had<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_232">{232}</a></span> found she was guilty of wandering thoughts, -for the letter begins: "My dear Sister,—Altho’ it is certain the kind -of Wandering Thoughts wch you mention, are consistent with pure Love, -yet it is highly desirable to be delivered from yᵐ, because (as you -observe) they hinder profitable thoughts." Miss Lewen is mentioned. "I -hope Miss Lewen and you speak to each other, not only without Disguise, -but without Reserve." The letter ends, "My Dear Sister, your -affectionate Brother."</p> - -<p>Letters 4 and 5 are missing. The next, numbered 6, is dated from London, -November 6, 1765. Peggy has a fixed idea that she will not live beyond -the age of three and twenty. Wesley, in this letter, asks many questions -about this conviction. He wants to know when it began, and whether it -continues the same, whether her health is better or worse. The subject -is continued in the next letter, written December 31 in the same year. -This letter begins "My dear Peggy," and ends, "I cannot tell you how -tenderly I am, my Dear Sister, your affectionate Brother, J. Wesley."</p> - -<p>Wesley had evidently a tender paternal regard for the girl. He was in -1765 sixty-two years of age, fifteen years older than her father would -have been if he had survived. Peggy was mistaken in her conviction. She -did not actually die till November, 1777, when she had completed her -thirty-third year, so she was just ten years out. Letter 9, written -April, 1766, from Manchester, contains nothing of interest. Numbers 10 -and 11 are unfortunately missing. Number 12 shows that Peggy desired to -go to Leytonstone, where there was a considerable colony of Wesleyans, -and whither perhaps Margaret Lewen had already gone. Wesley was very -anxious she should not go. "I am afraid," he writes, "if you go to -Laton-Stone you will give up Perfection. I mean by placing it so high, -as I fear none will ever attain. I know <i>not one</i> in London that has -ever largely conversed with Sally Ryan, who has not given it up, that -is, with regard to their own<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_233">{233}</a></span> Experience. Now this, I think, would do -you no good at all. Nay, I judge, it wou’d do you much hurt: it would be -a substantial Loss. But I do not see how you <i>cou’d</i> possibly avoid that -loss, without a free intercourse with me, both in Writing and Speaking. -Otherwise I know and feel, I can give you up, tho’ you are exceeding -near and dear to me. But if you was to be moved from your Stedfastness -that wᵈ give me pain indeed. You will write immediately to, my Dear -Peggy, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley."</p> - -<p>The next two letters are missing, so that we do not know if Peggy obeyed -John Wesley or no, though from the tone of the next letter it seems -probable that she did so. The next letter is dated November 7, 1766. -Margaret Lewen had died at Leytonstone, October 30. By her will, dated -November 21, 1764, she left many legacies to various Methodist good -works, and to John Wesley £1,000, and her residuary estate to be applied -as he should "think fit for the furtherance of the Gospel." She left -Mary Dale £1,000, and to her sisters Margaret and Ann Dale, £100 apiece. -Her father threatened to dispute the will, and the matter was -compromised by the surrender to him of the residuary estate.</p> - -<p>John Wesley refers to Margaret Lewen’s death in the fifteenth letter: -"How happy it is to sit loose to all below! Just now I find a paper on -wch is wrote (in Miss Lewen’s hand), ‘March 24, 1762, Margaret Dale, Ann -Dale, Margaret Lewen, wonder in what state of life they will be in the -year 1766.’ How little did any of you think at that time that she would -then be in Eternity: But she now wonders at nothing and grieves at -nothing." He ends: "And sure neither Life nor Death shall separate you -from, my Dear Sister, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley."</p> - -<p>In the eighteenth letter—the sixteenth contains nothing of especial -interest, the seventeenth is missing—Wesley speaks of his followers at -Newcastle: "Those you<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_234">{234}</a></span> mention are Israelites indeed to whom you will do -well to speak with all freedom. A few more in Newcastle are of the same -spirit: Altho’ they are but few in whom ye Gold is free from dross. I -wish you could help poor Molly Stralliger. I am often afraid for her -lest she shᵈ be ignorant of Satan’s devices, and lose all that <span class="smcap">God</span> had -wrought in her."</p> - -<p>The twentieth letter we give in full, not because it is more interesting -than the other letters, but because it has not before appeared in public -print.<a id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> The other letters will be found in the <i>Life and Letters of -Thomas Pelham Dale</i>, by his daughter, Helen Pelham Dale, published by -George Allen, 1894. The whereabouts of this letter was not then known, -but it has since been unearthed from a collection of autographs made by -a connection of the family. Possibly the other missing letters may be in -other collections. The letter is dated from Athlone, June 19, 1767: "My -dear Peggy, By conversing with you, I should be overpaid for coming two -or three hundred miles round about. But how it will be I know not yet. -If a ship be ready for Whitehaven, then I shall arrive at Whitehaven or -Newcastle, otherwise I must sail for Holyhead or Chester. I hope you now -again find the increased witness that you are saved from sin. There is a -danger in being content without it, into which you may easily reason -yourself. You may easily bring yourself to believe there is no need of -it, especially while you are in an easy and peaceful state. But beware -of this. The Witness of Sanctification as well as of Justification, is -ye privilege of God’s Children, and you may have the one always clear as -well as ye other if you walk humbly and closely with God. In what state -do you find your mind now? Full of Faith and Love? Praying always? Then -I hope you<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_235">{235}</a></span> always remember my Dear Peggy, Your affectionate Brother, J. -Wesley."</p> - -<p>Before Wesley wrote again he had been to Newcastle and had seen Peggy. -The letter is dated from Witney, August 27, and is, as usual, very -affectionate in tone: "I thought it was hardly possible for me to love -you better than I did before I came last to Newcastle. But your artless, -simple, undisguised Affection exceedingly increased mine. At the same -time it increased my Confidence in you so that I feel you are -unspeakably near and dear to me." He adds in a postscript, "Don’t forget -what you have learnt in Music." Possibly Peggy had been showing her -friend her accomplishments. Possibly, too, she had learnt her music from -a certain young man, Edward Avison, afterwards organist of St. Nicholas’ -Church, Newcastle. If this were the case, her teacher taught Peggy -something else beside music, for she afterwards married him.</p> - -<p>In the next letter we get glimpses of two people famous in the Methodist -world of the day, George Whitefield, and Darcy, Lady Maxwell. Of George -Whitefield it is unnecessary to speak. Lady Maxwell was the daughter of -Thomas Brisbane of Brisbane in Ayrshire, and the widow of Sir Walter -Maxwell, fourth Baronet, of Pollock. Left a childless widow in 1757, she -became a follower of John Wesley, though she did not formally join the -Methodists till many years later. She provided the money for building -the school at Kingswood.</p> - -<p>Wesley writes: "I hope Mr. Whitefield was an instrument of good at -Newcasle, and a means of stirring up Some. He is very affectionate and -very lively and his word seldom falls to the ground: tho’ he does not -frequently speak of the deep things of <span class="smcap">God</span>, or the Height of ye -Promises. But you say not one word of Lady Maxwell? Did she call at -Newcastle going and coming? Did you converse with her alone? And did she -break thro’ her Natural and habitual Shyness? How did you<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_236">{236}</a></span> find her? -Seeking Heavenly things alone, and all athirst for <i>God</i>? It will be a -miracle of miracles if she stands, considering the thousand snares that -surround her. I have much satisfaction when I consider in how different -a situation you and my Dear Molly Dale are. You have every outward -Advantage for Holiness wch an indulgent Providence can give."<a id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p> - -<p>The correspondence now begins to slacken. Peggy has accused him of not -answering her last letter; in reply Wesley writes from Liverpool, April -1, 1768. "I do not understand what Letter you mean. I have answer’d (if -I do not forget) every letter which I have receiv’d, and I commonly -answer either of you within a day or two. In this respect, I do not love -to remain in your debt. In others I must always be so, for I can never -pay you the Affection I owe. Accept of what little I have to give.... I -hope to be at Glasgow on Wednesday the 19th instant, at Aberdeen ye -28th, at Edinburgh May 5th, at Newcastle on Friday May 20th."</p> - -<p>The next letter dated June 30, 1768, may be described as a very brief -treatise on Sanctification. Then there is a gap of nearly a year, the -next letter being dated May 20, 1769. Peggy has had to endure a great -trial. Her sister Molly married a Mr. John Collinson of London. The -<i>Newcastle Courant</i> of April 29, 1769, thus announces the fact: -"Thursday, was married at St. Andrew’s, Mr. John Collinson of London to -Miss Dale of Northumberland Street, daughter of the late Mr. Dale of -Tunstall, near Sunderland, a most agreeable young lady, endowed with -every qualification to render the marriage state happy, with a fortune -of £2,000." But Peggy felt her sister’s defection much. Wesley was -strongly in favour of the single life both for men and women. He had -published a treatise in favour of celibacy, entitled <i>Thoughts on a -Single Life</i>. It is true that he himself afterwards married<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_237">{237}</a></span> in the year -1751, but, as his matrimonial experiences were distinctly unfortunate -(he separated from his wife for ever after five years of married life), -he was not unnaturally more than ever firmly convinced of the advantage -of celibacy.<a id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> Peggy was as yet quite sure that John Wesley was right -in this as in everything else.</p> - -<p>He comforts her thus: "The hearing from my Dear Peggy at this critical -time gives me a particular satisfaction. I wanted to know, How you bore -such a trial, a wound in the tenderest part. You have now a first proof -that the God whom you serve, is able to deliver you in every trial. You -feel and yet conquer.... I hope you are delivered not only from -<i>repining</i> with regard to Her, but from <i>reasoning</i> with regard to -yourself. You still see the more excellent way, and are sensible of the -advantages you enjoy. I allow <i>some</i> single women have fewer Advantages -for Eternity than they might have in a married State. But, blessed be -<span class="smcap">God</span> you have all the Advantages wch one can well conceive.... O may you -improve every advantage to the uttermost. And give more and more comfort -to, my Dear Peggy, your Affectionate Brother, J. Wesley."</p> - -<p>There is one more letter from London, November 17, 1769, encouraging -Peggy to persevere in her work for others. Then the letters cease. -Perhaps there were more letters which have been lost, or were perchance -destroyed by the recipient. Wesley, with his zeal for celibacy, can -hardly have liked the news of his Peggy’s engagement to Edward Avison. -He was organist of St. Nicholas’, Newcastle, in succession to his -father, Charles Avison,<a id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> once a well-known musician in the North of -England. He was three years younger than Peggy. Their married life was -short. They were married March, 1773: Edward Avison died October, 1776, -aged twenty-nine; and Peggy in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_238">{238}</a></span> November, 1777, aged thirty-three. They -left no children. Their monument in the churchyard of St. Andrew’s -Church, Newcastle, says: "They were eminent for piety and primitive -simplicity of manners; having each borne a lingering disease with the -most exemplary patience and resignation, they rejoiced at the approach -of death." Perhaps Wesley visited Newcastle during the last year of his -dear Peggy’s life, and was able to minister spiritual consolation to -her. Let us hope that any breach that Peggy’s marriage may have made -between her and one who loved her with so tender and paternal an -affection was cured by the approach of Death, the great Healer.</p> - -<p>Little remains to be said. Mary Collinson lived to 1812, and left a -family of two sons, George Dale and John Collinson, and three daughters, -Ann Collinson, Thermuthis Collinson, and Mary, the wife of Christopher -Godmond. It is not known if any of her descendants are alive to-day; if -there be any such, they may very likely possess the missing letters. Ann -Dale never married, and lived till 1820. Edward, their brother, died in -1826, having seen five of his six sons die before him without issue. His -eldest and only surviving son, also Edward, lived till 1862, and then -died childless. With him died out the senior branch of the family of -Dale of Dalton-le-Dale and Tunstall. Since his death there have been no -Dales of this family residing in the Bishopric. How the letters written -by John Wesley came into the possession of Canon Dale, or Canon Dale’s -father, William Dale, is not known. Possibly Anne Dale gave them to -William Dale, or her brother may have given them to his son. It is -certain that to that son’s careful preservation of them we owe this -intimate revelation of the great revivalist’s affection for a Durham -girl.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_239">{239}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="THE_OLD_FAMILIES_OF_DURHAM"></a>THE OLD FAMILIES OF DURHAM<br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By Henry R. Leighton</span></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE evil fate that has attended the old houses in this county has -followed equally relentlessly the families who once dwelled therein. -Here and there, it is true, a family still exists that has weathered the -storms of long centuries; one or two, perhaps, may be pointed out that -have increased their acreage as the long years went by; and perhaps -another two or three whose lands remain with daughters’ heirs.</p> - -<p>With few exceptions, almost all the families of importance in feudal -days have passed away. The great House of Neville,<a id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> that once -threatened to overshadow the Lords Palatine themselves, survives only in -several southern branches, and their name is almost forgotten in their -native land. The baronial houses of Eure,<a id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> Conyers, Hylton, and -FitzMarmaduke have all passed away. So, too, have nearly all the names -recorded in the Heralds’ Visitations at intervals from 1530 to 1666. Of -the latter,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_240">{240}</a></span> eight only retain their patrimonial acres. These are the -Chaytors, Edens, Lambtons, Liddells, Lumleys, Salvins, Vanes, and -Whartons. To these may be added the Williamsons, who came from -Nottinghamshire, and the Shaftos from Northumberland.</p> - -<p>The Visitations of Durham<a id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> are, like those of the sister county of -Northumberland, notoriously incomplete. Of the latter, Surtees wrote: -"The Northumbrian gentry, many of whom probably never heard of the -Visitation, would scarcely leave their business or amusements to attend -an Officer of Arms for a purpose of which few then saw the utility, and -which, it is plain, in many instances was considered an extreme -nuisance." In the adjoining county to the south there was a similar -state of affairs. Of Dugdale’s <i>Visitation of York</i>, Mr. Davies wrote: -"Nearly one-third of the whole number of gentry whom the herald called -upon to appear before him with proofs of their arms and pedigrees -treated his summonses with neglect."</p> - -<p>In this county both a long and a strong list of families of gentle blood -can easily be enumerated who, for one reason or another, make no -appearance in the Heralds’ books. No one familiar with the history of -the county can have helped remarking the absence of families formerly so -well known, and in many cases still well known, as the Allgoods of -Bradley, Blacketts of Hoppyland, Bromleys of Nesbitt, Dales of Dalton, -Douthwaites of Westholme, Emersons of Westgate, Goodchilds of Pallion, -Greenwells of Greenwell and Stobilee, Holmeses of Wearmouth, Hunters of -Medomsley, Ironsides of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_241">{241}</a></span> Houghton, Meaburns of Pontop, and others whose -names spin out too long a list to give in full. Now, most of these -families had intermarried with families who registered and had written -themselves as "gentlemen" for several generations; and, as an -interesting sidelight upon the Visitations, we believe it could be shown -that more than one family who registered was in debt pretty heavily to -others who didn’t register. So it does not appear to have been -altogether a matter of means.</p> - -<p>It may perhaps be as well, before proceeding farther, to notice the -principal material we have, in addition to the Visitations, for proving -the succession to estate in this county.</p> - -<p>Durham, being a separate regality, is not included in the Domesday Book, -and our earliest record is the Boldon Book, dated some years later, -being compiled by order of Bishop Pudsey in 1183. Later there is a -survey of the county, made by order of Bishop Hatfield, who ruled from -1345 to 1381. From the time of Bishop Beaumont (1318-33) the succession -may be proved by the inquisitions post-mortem taken upon the death of -every owner. These documents were formerly kept at Durham, but are now, -with many other local records, in London.</p> - -<p>With these must be mentioned the Halmote Rolls, commencing in 1349, -containing a record of all holders of the Bishop’s lands and other -records of the cursitors. The Durham Chancery Proceedings, also now in -the Record Office, are full of the most interesting information -respecting local families.</p> - -<p>The wills of residents in the Bishopric from the sixteenth century -onwards are of great value. A few also of the parish registers within -the diocese commence towards the end of the same century, but the -majority do not date with any regularity until another hundred years had -passed.</p> - -<p>Limited space forbids any lengthy account of the families individually, -and a few passing notices must suffice. Amongst the existing -"indigenous" families, as<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_242">{242}</a></span> Surtees calls them, the Lumleys must bear the -palm, not for length of pedigree, but for the long period they have -ranked amongst the greater nobility.</p> - -<p>Probably for some generations before, and certainly from, the days of -Uchtred, Lord of Lumley, <i>temp.</i> King Stephen, the family has held high -rank. Marmaduke de Lumley, who was in right of his mother one of the -coheirs of the barony of Thweng, made an interesting change in the -family arms. His father had borne a scarlet shield with six silver -popinjays, whilst his mother’s family arms were a golden shield, thereon -a fess gules. Marmaduke dispensed with three of the popinjays, and -placed his mother’s fess between the remaining three, two above it and -one below. His son Sir Ralph, the builder of the castle at Lumley, was -summoned to Parliament as a Baron in the eighth year of Richard II.’s -reign. Yorkist in sympathy, he joined in an unfortunate attempt to -overthrow the fourth Henry in the year that monarch grasped the throne, -and was killed at Cirencester in a skirmish. One of his younger sons, -Marmaduke, was successively Bishop of Carlisle and Lincoln, and Lord -High Treasurer of England. John de Lumley, Sir Ralph’s second but eldest -surviving son, was restored to his father’s estates by King Henry, -became a distinguished leader in the French wars, and was slain on the -field of Baugé in 1421. The successor, his only son Thomas, was summoned -to Parliament in his grandfather’s barony in 1461, the attainder of the -latter being reversed upon petition.</p> - -<p>Third in descent from the last-named peer, John, the fifth Baron, took -part in the great victory of Flodden. He lived to see his son and heir, -George Lumley, beheaded for high treason, and attainted, for taking part -in the Pilgrimage of Grace.</p> - -<p>George Lumley’s son, John Lumley, was recreated a Peer in 1547, his -father’s attainder being reversed. This John, Lord Lumley, must have -been something of an Oriental in his philosophy. He was strongly imbued<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_243">{243}</a></span> -with the spirit of ancestor-worship. It was he who brought two stone -monuments from Durham Abbey under the belief that they were of his -forefathers, and set them up with a long line of effigies representing -every generation of his house from a remote period. The rooms at Lumley -were also hung with a series of portraits of the same individuals by his -direction. About the origin of these the late Mr. Planché advanced an -interesting theory, printed in 1866, in the <i>Journal of the British -Archæological Association</i>.</p> - -<p>Lord Lumley appears to have impressed his family importance upon William -James, the contemporary Bishop of Durham, whose repetition of the -pedigree so astonished that modern Solomon, King James I., that the -latter evidently thought the Bishop was taking a rise out of him. "By my -saul, I didna ken Adam’s name was Lumley!" said the Sovereign. Doubtless -this was a natural exclamation, for it was the King’s first meeting with -a pedigree drawn up by an Elizabethan Herald. He would meet others as he -travelled farther South!</p> - -<p>The estates passed on the death of this peer to a second cousin, Sir -Richard Lumley. Created in 1628 a Viscount in the Peerage of Ireland, -Sir Richard in later years was known as a gallant Royalist, and one of -Prince Rupert’s trusted officers.</p> - -<p>His son, another Richard, one of the commanders of the Royal army at -Sedgemoor, was advanced in 1690 to the Earldom of Scarborough. Little -more remains to be said, beyond that Lumleys have taken part in almost -every war since that date (one, Sir William, commanded the cavalry at -Albuera; and another, a captain in the navy, was killed on the <i>Isis</i> in -1782), and that Lumley Castle is still the seat of the Earls of -Scarborough.</p> - -<p>Closely allied to the Lumleys by marriage, the Lambtons have owned the -adjoining estate of Lambton from the twelfth century. Their connection -with the curious legend of the Lambton Worm has made the name widely -known in the North. From the fifteenth century onwards the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_244">{244}</a></span> family were -perhaps most remarkable for the brilliant series of marriages the -successive owners of the estate made. Matches with Rokeby of Rokeby, -Lumley of Ludworth, the Lords Eure, the Tempests of Stella, and the -Curwens of Workington, each either bringing additional lands to the -house, or else widening and extending the family influence, came to a -climax with the marriage of Ralph Lambton, in 1696, with Dorothy -Hedworth, heiress to great estates on the north bank of the river. The -great-grandson of this marriage was the celebrated Radical Earl of -Durham, whose life has been told in recent years by Mr. Stuart Reid.</p> - -<p>The Greenwells are the third ancient house in this county who still -dwell on the lands from which they take their name. At the time our -earliest record, the Boldon Book, was compiled, William the Priest<a id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> -held lands at Greenwell, in the green valley of Wolsingham, and his -sons, James and Richard de Greenwell, took their surname from their -home. From their generation through long centuries Greenwell succeeded -Greenwell, until the death of Henry Greenwell in 1890. The estate then -passed to his brother’s daughter, Mrs. Fletcher, who sold Greenwell -within the last few years to her kinsman, Sir Walpole Eyre Greenwell, -Bart.</p> - -<p>Like other families, as the years passed by, younger sons founded -branches, some of which flourished and became even more influential than -the parent stem.</p> - -<p>Anthony Greenwell, a son of Peter Greenwell of Wolsingham, and grandson -of Peter Greenwell of Greenwell, living in the reign of Henry VIII., is -stated to have settled at Corbridge, in the adjoining county of -Northumberland. His son Ralph became allied by marriage to a number of -influential families; the administration issued after the death of his -father-in-law, Ralph Fenwick of Dilston, in</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_045" style="width: 361px;"> -<a href="images/i_244fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_244fp.jpg" width="361" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">General John Lambton.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_245">{245}</a></span></p> - -<p>1623, showing that the latter left five daughters, his coheirs. Of -these, Isabel, the eldest, married Ralph Greenwell, Mary married John -Swinburne, Agnes was wife to John Orde, Margaret to George Tempest of -Winlaton, and Barbara married William Harrison.</p> - -<p>Ralph’s grandson Nicholas, so named after his mother’s father Nicholas -Leadbitter of Warden, married, in 1683, Frances Whitfield, and their -son, Whitfield Greenwell, a captain in the army, was killed at the -Battle of Glenshiels in 1719. From his grandson, John Greenwell, of the -India House, the present Sir Walpole Greenwell is lineally descended.</p> - -<p>A second branch of the family has long been known as the Greenwells of -Greenwell Ford, thus curiously taking their name from the old home in -Wolsingham parish and giving it to the new (though its very newness has -now grown green with age) home near Lanchester.</p> - -<p>Thomas Greenwell, probably a younger son of John Greenwell of Greenwell, -living <i>circa</i> 1440, took up his abode at Stobilee, in the parish of -Satley (the vill of which had been held in chief in the early days of -the fourteenth century by Robert de Greenwell), and there his -descendants resided until the time of the Commonwealth, when the then -head of the family, William Greenwell, was sequestered as a Royalist, -his lands being taken from him, and let to Henry Blackett by the -Parliamentary Commissioners.</p> - -<p>Nicholas Greenwell, a younger brother of the Royalist William, founded -the house of Ford, purchasing that estate in 1633. He married at -Medomsley, in 1623, Mary Kirkley, probably a near relative of Michael -Kirkley of Newcastle, whose daughter married the first Sir William -Blackett. This Michael Kirkley mentions in his will, which he made in -1620, amongst other relatives, his cousin, Mr. William Greenwell the -elder, of London, merchant, to whom William Camden, the Herald, had -confirmed in 1602 "the antient armes of the worshipfull family of -Greenwell, of Grenewell<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_246">{246}</a></span> Hill, in the County Palatine of Duresme, from -which the said William Greenwell is descended." This London branch of -the family ended with an heiress, who married Thomas Legh, of Ridge, in -Cheshire.</p> - -<p>Returning to Nicholas Greenwell of Ford, he died in 1640, and was buried -amongst his ancestors at Lanchester. His son, another William, added -lands at Kibblesworth to the paternal estate by marriage with an heiress -of the Cole family. He died at an advanced age in 1701, when his eldest -son, Nicholas, succeeded to Greenwell Ford, whilst Kibblesworth passed -to his younger son, Robert. The latter was great-grandfather of the late -Major-General Sir Leonard Greenwell, K.C.B., who, in 1820, acted as -godfather to the present venerable head of the family, the author of -Greenwell’s Glory, one of, if not, the best trout flies known.</p> - -<p>Other branches of the family have flourished for awhile and then -disappeared. In 1697 William Greenwell of Whitworth acquired a moiety, -including the mansion-house of Great Chilton, where his descendants -lived for some three generations. One of his daughters married Cuthbert -Smith, whose brother Ralph became his heir. This hunting squire -bequeathed his property, for no other reason but that they had often -ridden together</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"From the drag to the chase, from the chase to the view,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">From the view to the death in the morning,"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">to Robert Surtees of Milkwellburn.</p> - -<p>At a much earlier date another William Greenwell owned a fair estate at -Neasham, and dying in 1619 left two daughters, Margaret aged three and -Eleanor two years, as his heirs. His widow married Marmaduke Wyville, -and the daughters respectively became the wives of John Taylor of -Appleton, and Ralph Hedworth of Pokerley.</p> - -<p>One other branch, still surviving, must not be passed over. The estate -of Broomshields near to Satley has<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_247">{247}</a></span> belonged to Greenwells from as far -back as 1488, when one of the many Peters lived there. The -representation of the Maddisons of Hole House in the Derwent Valley, a -family celebrated in local history and ballad, passed into this family -by marriage in 1774. A later owner of Broomshields, John Greenwell, -married Elizabeth, daughter of Alan Greenwell of Ford, and thus -re-united the two families.</p> - -<p>Many years have passed since Robert Surtees wrote: "<i>Sic transit.</i> We -know not what are become of the descendants of Bulmer, whose ancestors -held Brancepeth and Middleham Castles. The family of Conyers, which has -had Parliamentary lords, and once consisted of nine or ten flourishing -branches (excepting some remains in the South), is reduced to a single -Baronet’s title without a fortune, and the probable descendants of -Surtees of Dinsdale are ignorant of their own origin, whilst the chief -male line is either extinct or steeped in poverty and oblivion."</p> - -<p>The great house of Surtees derives, as its name implies, its origin from -a family resident to a remote period on the banks of the River Tees. -William, the son of Siward, was living there in the reign of Henry II., -and his son Ralph was the first to style himself Sur Tees, the family -residence being then, as for many long years afterwards, at Dinsdale, -the adjoining seat to Sockburn where the Conyers family dwelt.</p> - -<p>Of the dissolution of this head house of the race, Mr. Surtees added: "I -discovered by a remarkable deed at Durham (unknown to Hutchinson) how -the estates went to Brandling in prejudice of Marmaduke, heir male of -the half-blood; and that Marmaduke’s grandson Thomas sold most of what -remained in the male line; but I cannot find further as to this Thomas -except that his younger brother Richard married and had two sons, Robert -and Richard, who are the last I can trace of this branch, the undoubted -direct heirs."<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_248">{248}</a></span></p> - -<p>The existing branches of this old family now resident at Redworth Hall, -Mainsforth, and Hamsterley, derive their descent from a William Surtees -who, in the year 1440, acquired lands in Whickham under the Halmote -Court, his sureties being Robert Boutflower and Thomas Gibson.</p> - -<p>His descendants for some generations resided within the parishes of -Whickham in this county, and Ovingham in Northumberland.</p> - -<p>Edward Surtees strengthened the family by marrying in 1617 Margaret -Coulson, whose mother was sister and heir of Robert Surtees, Alderman -and twice Mayor of Durham.</p> - -<p>The eldest son of this marriage was ancestor of the famous beauty, Bessy -Surtees, who ran away with and married John Scott, afterwards Lord Eldon -and Chancellor of Great Britain.</p> - -<p>The second son, Robert Surtees of Ryton, added to his inheritance by -marrying an heiress of the Hauxley family. He purchased Mainsforth and -founded the two families now owning that seat and Redworth, and amongst -his descendants was Robert Surtees the historian, to whom his native -county owes an everlasting debt.</p> - -<p>The Surtees of Hamsterley Hall trace their descent from a Cuthbert -Surtees of Ebchester who died in 1622, and whose relationship to the -Ovingham family is not at present clear. His son Anthony, however, held -the Hollins in Ovingham parish in 1629, and that property in 1586 was in -the possession of Rowland Surtees, who died the following year, and who -was brother of William Surtees, ancestor of the families already -mentioned.</p> - -<p>Hamsterley descended to Robert Smith Surtees, the author of some -well-known sporting novels.</p> - -<p>The Edens are almost certainly an indigenous family, for there can be -but little doubt that they derive their name from the village of Eden, -now called Castle Eden. The family for a number of generations resided -at Preston-on-Tees,</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_046" style="width: 600px;"> -<a href="images/i_248fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_248fp.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Hoppyland Park.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_249">{249}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">where lands were held by Robert de Eden in 1413. A succession of -Thomases and Williams bring the pedigree into the sixteenth century, -when John Eden married an heiress of the Lambtons. After the heads of -the house successively increased the family patrimony by marrying -heiresses of the Hutton, Welbury, and Bee families, John Eden’s -great-great-grandson, Robert by name, followed his ancestor’s example by -marrying another Lambton heiress. He was Member for the county and was -created a Baronet in 1672. Sir Robert Eden, the third Baronet, had a -large and distinguished family. His second son Robert was Governor of -Maryland, and created a Baronet in 1776. He was ancestor of the present -Sir William Eden, who succeeded also to the inheritance of the -first-named Sir Robert’s eldest son, and is thus doubly a Baronet. The -Governor’s next brother, Sir Robert’s third son, was the distinguished -statesman, William Lord Auckland, and the fifth son, Sir Morton Eden, an -eminent diplomatist, was created Baron Henley, and was ancestor of the -present peer. One of the sisters of this talented trio married John -Moore, Archbishop of Canterbury, and another married the Rev. Richard -Richardson, Chancellor of St. Paul’s.</p> - -<p>Several old families have for many generations dwelt in the Valley of -the Derwent, and were all more or less intermarried with each other.</p> - -<p>Thomas Hunter, about the end of the fourteenth century, married Margaret -Layton, heiress, through her mother, of the family of Alanshields of -Alanshields. A century later quite a small clan of the Hunters were -resident up and down the valley, but principally at Medomsley. Here in -1675 was born Dr. Christopher Hunter, the celebrated antiquary; and here -nearly a century later, in 1757, General Sir Martin Hunter, G.C.M.G., -first saw the light.</p> - -<p>The Stevensons were another Derwentside family, whose name is best known -through John Hall, the <i>Eugenius</i> of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_250">{250}</a></span> Sterne, having taken it when he -married the heiress of Ambrose Stevenson of Byerside.</p> - -<p>The Shaftos have in various branches been closely connected with the -county for many centuries. The late Rev. John Hodgson, in an early -volume of the <i>Archæologia Æliana</i>, throws doubt upon the traditional -descent of the Shaftos in the male line from the Folliots. He -overlooked, however, several important facts that at least render the -assertion possible. The Fenwick of which the Folliots were Lords is not -the Fenwick in Northumberland as he assumed, but the place of that name -in Yorkshire which passed by the marriage of Margaret Folliot to her -husband, Sir Hugh Hastings, and long continued in his family.</p> - -<p>Cuthbert, son of John Folliot of Fenwick, is said to have acquired lands -at Shafto in Northumberland by marrying one of the heirs of Roger -Welwick of that place, and his descendants took the local name; another -daughter of Roger is stated in the Visitation of Rutland, 1618, to have -married a Bryan Harbottle. A comparison of the arms of the respective -families shows that the Shafto coat is merely the Folliot arms -differenced. Jordan Folliot in 1295 bore <i>gules a bend argent</i>, and -Robert de Shaftowe, a contemporary, bore <i>gules on a bend argent, three -mullets azure</i>.</p> - -<p>The Shaftos of Tanfield Leigh in this county recorded their pedigree at -the Visitation of 1615. Le Neve continued the family for several -generations. James Shafto, aged eight, in 1615 married a sister of Sir -John Jackson of Harraton, and his son was living in 1707, and then -described as very poor. His son, again, a third James, married a -daughter of Sir Thomas Sandford, and had three sons, after whom the -descent is not clear.</p> - -<p>The family now resident at Whitworth Park are an early offshoot of the -Shaftos of Bavington in Northumberland. They have several times -intermarried with the Edens, and, like that family, are very rich in -quarterings. Their escutcheon includes the arms of the Cavendishes,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_251">{251}</a></span> -Dukes of Newcastle; the Lords Ogle, and many other great houses. Within -the last century Beamish Park, near Chester-le-Street, has become the -seat of another branch of the same family.</p> - -<p>The Salvins of Croxdale are another of our old historic families who -have held the same acres for generations. They have lived at their -present home from the early days of the fifteenth century. In the time -of King Charles they were gallant Loyalists, and two of them were killed -in the King’s service.</p> - -<p>The Whartons have also resided near to Durham for a good many centuries. -They descend from the Whartons of Wharton in Westmorland, and their -armorial insignia is interesting both in its origin and as illustrating -the close alliance often existing between families bearing similar arms. -Amongst the Normans who settled in this country after the Conquest was a -family named Flamanville, often abbreviated into Flamville, who took -their name from their lordship of that name in the province of La Manche -in Normandy, and gave it as a suffix to their new Leicester estate of -Aston. Their coat of arms was simply <i>la manche</i>, the sleeve, and so the -name originally applied to the curious geographical shape of a peninsula -came to be a familiar term in English heraldry. They intermarried with -the Conyers and the Hastings, and both these families adopted the -<i>manche</i> as their emblem. An heiress of the latter family married a -Wharton, and to this day a silver <i>manche</i> or <i>maunch</i> on a black field -is the Wharton arms.</p> - -<p>Dr. Wharton of Old Park, a lineal ancestor of the Dryburn family, is -celebrated as one of the courageous physicians who continued to visit -the sick during the Great Plague of London. One of his descendants, Dr. -Thomas Wharton, was the friend of the poet Thomas Gray, who visited him -at Old Park.</p> - -<p>The name of Burdon is an old one in the county, and probably derived -from one or other of the local villages of that name. There were Burdons -at Helmdon centuries<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_252">{252}</a></span> ago, and for a number of generations Burdens have -owned Castle Eden. The curious articles on the family arms, described by -some writers as organ-pipes, are said to be in reality palmers’ staffs, -and are so used by the present family.</p> - -<p>One branch of the Ords, who are a Northumbrian, or more correctly a -North Durham, family, must not be passed over. In the reign of James I. -John Ord acquired property at Fishburn, and founded the house who have -for so long dwelt at Sands Hall, beside Sedgefield.</p> - -<p>Another family of Northumbrian extraction are the Blenkinsopps of -Hoppyland, who are, however, in the male line descended from the Leatons -or Leightons of Benfieldside. Hoppyland was purchased from the Blacketts -in 1768 by William Leaton of Gibside, agent to the Bowes family.</p> - -<p>The Blacketts, who now reside at Wylam in Northumberland, held Hoppyland -for several generations. Their ancestor, Edward Blackett, of Shildon, -married for his second wife a daughter of the famous Lilburne family of -Thickley-Puncharden, and a near relative of "Freeborn John." The Baronet -family, who now own the old Conyers estate of Sockburn, are also -descended from this Edward, and are rather curiously derived from the -latter family. The first baronet’s wife was a daughter of Michael -Kirkley of Newcastle, whose wife’s grandmother, Marion Anderson, was a -lineal descendant of William Conyers of Wynyard.<a id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p> - -<p>Ravensworth Castle, near Gateshead, has been the home of the Liddell -family since 1607. The third owner of the name was created a Baronet by -King Charles I. in 1642, and was a strong Royalist during the troubled -years of that King’s reign. Since then the family has twice held -peerages. Sir Henry Liddell was created Baron Ravensworth in 1747, but -as he had no children the title became<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_253">{253}</a></span> extinct at his death in 1784. -His great-nephew, Sir Thomas Henry Liddell, took the same title on his -elevation to the peerage in 1821.</p> - -<p>Two members of the Ravensworth family have left names well known in the -literary world. The second Baron, son and namesake of the first, was the -author of a translation into English lyric verse of the <i>Odes of -Horace</i>, and, in conjunction with Mr. Richards, he published in blank -verse a translation of the last six books of Virgil’s <i>Æneid</i>. He was -created Earl of Ravensworth, a title that died with his son, when the -Barony passed to a cousin. The Very Rev. Henry George Liddell, Dean of -Christ Church, Oxford, and some time Vice-Chancellor of that University, -was one of the compilers of the well-known Greek lexicon.</p> - -<p>The Bowes family was once as widely scattered over Durham as the -Conyers. Streatlam Castle and Gibside, Bradley Hall, Biddick, and -Thornton Hall, were all residences of the Boweses at one time. One -branch only in the male line survives, and is now resident at Croft. -Streatlam and Gibside, however, still belong to descendants in the -female line—the Earls of Strathmore—who have added the name of their -Durham ancestors to the paternal surname of Lyon.</p> - -<p>One of the most celebrated members of this family was <i>Old</i> Sir William -Bowes, whose devotion to the young wife he lost, when he was about -twenty-eight years old, has caused him to be celebrated amongst true -lovers. He lived to a great age, and never remarried.</p> - -<p>A descendant of his, Sir George Bowes, is celebrated in local rhyme as—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Cowardy! cowardy! Barney Castle,"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a most erroneous term, for he was, in very truth, a loyal and gallant -gentleman, whose brave defence of Barnard Castle in a time of strife and -rebellion perhaps saved England for Queen Elizabeth. But the Boweses -have<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_254">{254}</a></span> always, like most of our real old families, been a brave old race, -and fully up to their motto: <i>In multis, in magnis, in bonis expertus</i>.</p> - -<p>The Chaytors are descended from a certain John Chaytor, of Newcastle, -merchant, whose widow remarried William Wilkinson, another merchant in -the same old city.</p> - -<p>The widow of both made her will on March 23, 1558-59, and in it, after -desiring to be buried in All Saints’ Church, Newcastle, beside her last -lord, mentions her two sons, Christopher and John, and her daughter, -Jane Kirkhouse. John Chaytor the younger married a daughter of James -Perkinson, and left two children, Elizabeth and John, living in 1579.</p> - -<p>Christopher Chaytor became an important public man, and, besides -acquiring the Manor of Butterby, near Durham, gathered into the family -fold the great estate of the noble old house of Clervaux, of Croft, and -founded the present Baronet Chaytors. His son Thomas married a daughter -of Sir Nicholas Tempest, Bart., of Stella; and his son again, Nicholas -Chaytor, was a Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Army under the famous -fighting Marquess of Newcastle, and by his wife, a Lambton heiress, was -father of Sir William, created a Baronet in 1671. This baronetcy became -extinct on the death of the first holder in 1720, but was again revived -when Sir William Chaytor was created a Baronet in 1801.</p> - -<p>The Tempests, as already mentioned, were relatives of the Chaytors. They -came into the county from Yorkshire, when Sir William Tempest, of -Studley, married the heiress of the Washingtons of Washington. His -natural son, Rowland, acquired a considerable estate by marrying one of -the many coheirs of the great baronial family of Umphreville, and was -ancestor of the various families of the name seated in this county.</p> - -<p>Sir Nicholas Tempest, of Stella Hall, in the reign of James I., was -created a Baronet, and was buried at Ryton in 1625.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" id="ill_047" style="width: 434px;"> -<a href="images/i_254fp.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_254fp.jpg" width="434" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<img src="images/i_254fp-a.jpg" width="250" alt="[Signature image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_255">{255}</a></span>  </p> - -<p>His younger brother, Rowland Tempest, was ancestor of the Tempests of -the Isle and Old Durham, whose representative some hundred years later, -John Tempest, who was many years M.P. for the city of Durham, left a -daughter Frances, who became eventually heiress of this branch of the -family. She married the Rev. Sir Henry Vane, Bart., Prebendary of Durham -Cathedral, a descendant of the famous Sir Henry Vane the elder, and her -son, assuming his mother’s name, became Sir Henry Vane-Tempest. He left -an only daughter, Frances Anne Emily, who married the third Marquess of -Londonderry as his second wife, and was grandmother of the present -Marquess.</p> - -<p>The Vanes, who descend from a common ancestor with the Earls of -Westmorland, have only been connected with Durham since the reign of -James I., when Sir Henry Vane, of Hadlo Castle, a Kentish knight, -acquired Raby Castle by grant from the Crown. His youngest son was -ancestor of the Marquesses of Londonderry, and his eldest son was -ancestor of the late Duke of Cleveland and of the present Lord Barnard.</p> - -<p>The Williamsons came into this county through a strange decree of fate. -The estate of Monkwearmouth passed from its purchaser, Colonel George -Fenwick, of Brinkburn, the well-known Puritan, to his daughter Dorothy, -who married Sir Thomas Williamson, of East Markham, in Nottinghamshire. -Sir Thomas belonged to a Cavalier family that had lost much in the Royal -cause.</p> - -<p>Sir William, the fourth Baronet, married a sister of Mrs. Lambton, of -Lambton, and co-heiress of John Hedworth, of Harraton, whose wife was a -descendant of William James, sometime Bishop of Durham. Whitburn Hall -has for several generations been the family residence, and the present -Baronet is the ninth.</p> - -<p>Lord Boyne’s family are only recent settlers in Durham, and came here -when Brancepeth Castle passed to the seventh Viscount upon his marriage -with an heiress of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_256">{256}</a></span> Russells. They have been Barons of Brancepeth -since 1866.</p> - -<p>Other old families still existent in the shire who should at least be -mentioned are the Pembertons<a id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> of Belmont Hall, the Wilkinsons of -Durham, the Fogg-Elliots of Elvet Hill, the Bateses of Wolsingham, the -Trotters of Helmdon, and the Hutchinsons.</p> - -<p>The Claverings of Axwell, a noble old race, have within the last few -years died out in the male line, but the name and blood continue in the -present owners of the old home.</p> - -<p>Descendants of other old families doubtless linger on: Byerleys and -Fawcetts, Darnells and Croudaces, Muschamps and Emersons, Morgans and -Marleys, Ewbankes and Raines, Rippons and Maddisons, and many another -race, inheriting to the full the traditions of our country, are to be -found scattered up and down the county.</p> - -<h2><a id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a id="A"></a>Abbey, Durham, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -— of Durham dissolved, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Acre, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Agnes’s Fast, St., <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -Alanshields of Alanshields, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> - -Aldhun, Bishop, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -"All Fools’ Day," <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Alston, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -Altars at Bolihope, Roman, <a href="#page_80">80</a><br /> - -Altar-screen, Durham, <a href="#page_121">121-122</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Altar-tomb, Neville, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -— of Bernard Gilpin, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Amiatinus, the Codex, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Anglo-Saxon memorial crosses, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -Arms, Greenwell, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> - -— Lumley, <a href="#page_242">242</a><br /> - -Associations of John Wesley, Durham, <a href="#page_229">229-238</a><br /> - -Asylum, Sunderland Orphan, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Auckland, brasses in St. Andrew’s, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -— brass in St. Helen’s, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Aucklandshire, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Aycliffe Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="B"></a>Baker, Mrs. Sarah, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Bale Hill, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Balliol, Bernard de, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> - -— John, sometime King of Scotland, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> - -Ballads, Robert Surtees’, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -Bank, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Barbara, Bishop William de St., <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Barnard Castle, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> - -— — Church, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Barnes, Mrs. Fridesmond, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Baronial houses, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> - -Barons of the Bishopric, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Barrow at Copt Hill, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Bateses of Wolsingham, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Battle of Neville’s Cross, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -Baydale inn, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Bayley, K. C., <a href="#page_7">7</a><br /> - -Beaumont, Lewis, Bishop-elect of Durham, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a><br /> - -Bede, Venerable, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -— at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, <a href="#page_146">146-151</a><br /> - -Bede’s chair, Jarrow, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -— tomb, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> - -— Well, Monkton, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Bellasis, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Bell, Durham Curfew, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -— Pancake, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Billingham Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Binchester, Roman camp at, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -— Roman epitaph at, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -Birthdays folk-lore, <a href="#page_46">46</a><br /> - -Biscop, Benedict, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -Bishop Aldhun, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -— Auckland, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -— — Palace, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> - -— Cosin, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> - -— Crewe, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -— Flambard, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -— James, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -— Middleham, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— — Church, <a href="#page_180">180</a><br /> - -— Philip de Pictavia, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -— Pudsey, <a href="#page_9">9-33</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -— Walcher, <a href="#page_6">6-7</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -— William of St. Carileph, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Bishopric, Barons of the, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -— of Durham, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a><br /> - -Bishop’s revenue, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Bishopwearmouth effigy, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Black Death, the, <a href="#page_12">12-13</a><br /> - -Blackett family, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> - -— Sir Edward, <a href="#page_75">75</a><br /> - -Blakeston of Blakeston, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -Blakiston, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— Sir William, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Blenkinsopps of Hoppyland, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> - -Boar, the Pollard, <a href="#page_68">68-71</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -Bogs, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Boldon Book, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Bolihope, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br /> - -— Roman altars at, <a href="#page_80">80</a><br /> - -Bowes of Streatlam, <a href="#page_253">253</a><br /> - -— Sir George, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -— Sir William, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -Boyne, Lord, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> - -Bradley, Ralph, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Brae, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Brag, the Picktree, <a href="#page_76">76-78</a><br /> - -Brancepeth, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -— Castle, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> - -Brass, Chester-le-Street Church, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -— Haughton-le-Skerne, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -— Hoton, William, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -— Houghton-le-Spring, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -— Brasses, monumental, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -— Sedgefield Church, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Bridge, Prebend’s, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -— Tyne, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -Brigantes, occupation by, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Brocks, <a href="#page_91">91-92</a><br /> - -Bronze Age, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Brow, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Brown, Dame Dorothy, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Bruce, Robert de, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br /> - -— tombs, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Brunskill, Thomas, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Bruses (De), tomb of, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -Bulmer, Bertram de, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -— family, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> - -— stone, <a href="#page_25">25</a><br /> - -Burdon family, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> - -— John, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Burns, <a href="#page_91">91-92</a><br /> - -Butler, Bishop, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br /> - -"Butterby churchgoer," <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -"Butter Cross," Ravensworth, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Byerley, Colonel Anthony, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -"Byerley’s Bull Dogs," <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="C"></a>Carileph, Bishop William of St., <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Carling Sunday, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Castle Barnard, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> - -— Brancepeth, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -— Durham, <a href="#page_204">204-207</a><br /> - -— Eden, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -— Hilton, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> - -— Lambton, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— Lumley, <a href="#page_207">207-208</a><br /> - -— Raby, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> - -— Ravensworth, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -— Stanhope, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -— Streatlam, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -— Walworth, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> - -— Witton, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Castles and Halls of Durham, <a href="#page_198">198-228</a><br /> - -— the, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br /> - -Cathedral brasses, Durham, <a href="#page_190">190-191</a><br /> - -— Durham, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_108">108-129</a><br /> - -— local lore of Durham, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Cau’d Lad of Hilton, the, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a><br /> - -Cave, Heatheryburn, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br /> - -Ceolfrid, Abbot, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -Chancery Proceedings, Durham, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -Chanter, John the, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -Chapel, "Galilee," <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -— Lady, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -— Nine Altars, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -— of St. Hilda, first, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -— St. John’s, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -Charter, Bishop Hugh Pudsey’s, Durham, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Chaytor family, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> - -Chester-le-Street, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Cheyne, John, sculptor, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -Christian the Mason, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -"Churchgoer, Butterby," <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Churches at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, Saxon, <a href="#page_147">147</a><br /> - -— of Durham, parish, <a href="#page_162">162-181</a><br /> - -Civil War, outbreak of, <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Claverings of Axwell, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Cleatlam Hall, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -Clergy, secular, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Cleughs, <a href="#page_95">95-96</a><br /> - -Cleve’s Cross, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br /> - -Clopton, John, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -<i>Club, Hell-fire</i>, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Codex Amiatinus, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Coldingham, Richard de, <a href="#page_173">173</a><br /> - -College, Ushaw, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Commission, Ecclesiastical, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -Common, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Coniscliffe, Church of St. Edwin, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Convent of SS. Peter and Paul, <a href="#page_147">147</a><br /> - -Conyers falchion, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -— family, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> - -— Nicolas, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Conyers, Ralph, <a href="#page_223">223</a><br /> - -— Sir John, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -Copt Hill, Houghton-le-Spring, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Cosin, Bishop, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> - -Cotham Conyers, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— Stob, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Council of the North, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Cow, the Dun, <a href="#page_66">66-67</a><br /> - -Coxhoe Hall, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Cradock family, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Craft gilds, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -Craggs family, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br /> - -Crawford, Jack, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Crayke, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Crewe, Bishop, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Cross at Darlington Market, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -— at Ravensworth, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -— Battle of Neville’s, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -— Butter, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -— Cleve’s, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br /> - -— Neville’s, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Crosses, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -— Anglo-Saxon memorial, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -— Billingham pre-Conquest, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -— Saxon, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Cumin, Robert, Earl of Northumberland, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Curfew Bell, Durham, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Cuthbert, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -— Feast of the Translation of St., <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -— Patrimony of St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -— sanctuary of St., <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="D"></a>Dalden Tower, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -Dale, Helen Pelham, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> - -— <i>Life and Letters of Thomas Pelham</i>, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> - -— Miss Margaret, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -— of Dalton-le-Dale, family of, <a href="#page_238">238</a><br /> - -— of Tunstall, Edward, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -— Rev. Thomas, <a href="#page_229">229</a><br /> - -— Rev. Thomas Pelham, <a href="#page_229">229</a><br /> - -Dales, name-places in the Durham, <a href="#page_79">79-107</a><br /> - -Dalton Church, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> - -Darcy, Lady Maxwell, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> - -Darlington Church tower, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -— market-cross at, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -— rood-loft, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -— St. Cuthbert’s Church, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -"Darnton Trod," <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Day, New Year’s, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Days, lucky, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Death, portents of, <a href="#page_51">51</a><br /> - -"Death, power of life and," <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Delavale, Peter, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Denes, <a href="#page_91">91</a><br /> - -Dens, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Derwentdale Plot, <a href="#page_21">21</a><br /> - -Dinsdale, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -— Church brass, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Dog-tooth ornament, only instance of, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Douthwaite family, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Duck, Sir John, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> - -Dun Cow, the, <a href="#page_66">66-67</a><br /> - -Durham, <a href="#page_5">5-6</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -— Bishopric of, <a href="#page_1">1-2</a><br /> - -— Castle, <a href="#page_204">204-207</a><br /> - -— Cathedral:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">altar of Our Lady of Pity, <a href="#page_124">124</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">altar screen, <a href="#page_121">121</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">altars in north transept, <a href="#page_124">124</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bede’s tomb, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bishop’s throne, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brasses, <a href="#page_190">190-191</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Carileph’s choir, <a href="#page_113">113</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chapter-house, <a href="#page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">choir, <a href="#page_114">114-115</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cloister, <a href="#page_127">127-128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crypt, <a href="#page_111">111-113</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">doorways, <a href="#page_113">113</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fresco paintings, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Galilee Chapel, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hatfield’s tomb, <a href="#page_121">121</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ironwork, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Chapel, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">library, <a href="#page_127">127-128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">local lore of, <a href="#page_63">63</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monks’ dormitory, <a href="#page_128">128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">nave, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neville chantry, <a href="#page_124">124</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neville screen, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">nine altars, <a href="#page_125">125-126</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">refectory, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_127">127-128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sanctuary knocker, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">towers, <a href="#page_120">120</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transepts, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treasury, <a href="#page_127">127</a></span><br /> - -— curfew bell, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -— fall of abbey, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -— first Lord, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— Lewis Beaumont, Bishop-elect of, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a><br /> - -— local volunteer companies, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -— North Gate, <a href="#page_13">13</a><br /> - -— Palatinate of, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -— prosperity of Methodism in, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br /> - -— St. Giles’s Church, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -— St. Margaret’s Church, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -— St. Oswald’s Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -— School, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -— spires, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -— trades, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br /> - -— University of, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -<br /> -"<a id="E"></a>Eade stones," <a href="#page_80">80</a><br /> - -Eales, <a href="#page_99">99</a><br /> - -Earl of Northumberland, Robert Cumin, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Earls, rebellion of the, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Easington Church, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Ebchester, Roman camp at, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Ecclesiastical Commission, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -Eden family, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_248">248-249</a><br /> - -Edmundbyres Cross, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Effigy at Bishopwearmouth, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -— at Norton, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -— of Euphemia de Neville, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -— of Isabel de Neville, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -— of Isabella, sister of Robert Bruce, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -— in Barnard Castle Church, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -— Lanchester Church, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -— St. Giles’s Church, Durham, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -— Whitburn Church, singular, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -Effigies in Easington Church, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -— in Hurworth Church, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -— in Redmarshall Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -— stone and wood, <a href="#page_185">185-189</a><br /> - -Egelwin, Bishop, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Egglescliffe Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Elizabethan Poor Law, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Elvet, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -Epitaph of Regina, wife of Barates the Palmyrene, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -— of Tidfirth, Bishop of Hexham, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> - -Epitaphs, punning, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Escomb Church, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> - -Estfelde, William, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Eures family, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> - -Evenwood, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Ewbanke family, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="F"></a>Fairy Hills, Castleton, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Falchion, Conyers, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -Families of Durham, Old, <a href="#page_239">239-256</a><br /> - -Fast, St. Agnes’s, <a href="#page_53">53</a><br /> - -Feast of the Translation of St. Cuthbert, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Fell, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Fen Hall, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Ferryhill, <a href="#page_28">28</a><br /> - -Ferry, Roger de, <a href="#page_68">68</a><br /> - -"Fig sue," <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Finchale Priory, <a href="#page_130">130-145</a><br /> - -Fire festivals, <a href="#page_44">44</a><br /> - -First charter of incorporation, Durham, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -First lifeboat built at South Shields, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -— passenger railway-line, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Flambard, Bishop Ralph, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Flask, the, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Flodden, banner of St. Cuthbert at, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br /> - -Fogg-Elliots of Elvet Hill, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Folk-lore, Durham, <a href="#page_44">44-64</a><br /> - -Font, Sedgefield, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -— Staindrop, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Ford Hall, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -Forest of Weardale, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Fothergill, G. A., <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Fox, Bishop Richard, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br /> - -Framwellgate, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Frosterley, <a href="#page_84">84</a><br /> - -Furmety, <a href="#page_59">59</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="G"></a>Gabriel Hounds, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Gainford Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -— grave-cover, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -— Hall, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Galilee Chapel, Durham, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> - -"Garland, maiden," <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Gateshead, <a href="#page_32">32</a><br /> - -— St. Mary’s, Church, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -— grave-covers, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Gibside, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Gild, craft, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -Gills, <a href="#page_95">95-97</a><br /> - -Gilpin, altar-tomb of Bernard, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Glory, Hand of, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Godric, St., <a href="#page_130">130-132</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a><br /> - -— shrine of St., <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Goodchild of Pallion, John, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -Grace, Pilgrimage of, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Grains, <a href="#page_91">91-92</a><br /> - -Grange, Lambton, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— Midridge, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Raby, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Grave-covers, <a href="#page_192">192-193</a><br /> - -— stones, Roman, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Great Aycliffe, <a href="#page_27">27</a><br /> - -Greatham Hospital, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -— old chapel at, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Great North Road, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Greenwell arms, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> - -Greenwell family, <a href="#page_244">244-246</a><br /> - -Greenwells of Broomshields, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> - -"Guisers," or mummers, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="H"></a>Hall, Bishop Middleham, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— Blakiston, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Hall, Cleatlam, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -— Cotham Conyers, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a><br /> - -— Coxhoe, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Fen, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Ford, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -— Gainford, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— Holmside, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -— Houghton-le-Spring, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> - -— Kibblesworth, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> - -— Middleton St. George, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Pallion, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -— School Aycliffe, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Sledwish, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -— Snotterton, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -— Staindrop, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -— Stanhope, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -— Stella, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> - -— Thornton, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Thorpe Thewles, old, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— Washington, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> - -— West Boldon, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -— Westholme, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -— West Rainton, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> - -Hallow E’en sports, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Halls and Castles of Durham, <a href="#page_198">198-228</a><br /> - -Halmote Rolls, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -Hand of Glory, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Harding the Chronicler, Ralph, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Hartlepool, <a href="#page_37">37</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> - -— — brass, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> - -— West, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -Hatfield, Bishop, <a href="#page_3">3</a><br /> - -— Survey, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -Haugh, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Haughton-le-Skerne Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Havelock, birthplace of General, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -— Sir Henry, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Heatheryburn Cave, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br /> - -Heighington Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -<i>Hell-Fire Club</i>, the, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> - -Hell Kettles, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Heraldry, the Manche in, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> - -Heralds’ Visitations, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> - -Heslerigg, Sir Arthur, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -High Barnes, Sunderland, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -Highwaymen of the North, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Hilda, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -— first religious house of St., <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -Hilton Castle, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> - -— John, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> - -— Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> - -— the Cau’d Lad of, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a><br /> - -Hilton’s tomb, Monkwearmouth, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -Hob of Pelaw, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Hodgson, Rev. J. F., <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Holden, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Hole, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Hollinside, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Holms, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Holmside Hall, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> - -Hooks, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Hopes, <a href="#page_88">88-92</a><br /> - -Hopper, J. T. H., <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> - -"Hot cross buns," <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Hot Hill, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Hoton brass, William, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> - -Houghton-le-Spring, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> - -— Hall, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> - -Hounds, Gabriel, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Hulme, Nicholas, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Hunter family, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> - -Hurworth Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Hutchinson family, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Hutton, Robert, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="I"></a>Incorporation, Durham’s first charter of, <a href="#page_31">31</a><br /> - -Inn, Baydale, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Inscriptions, monumental, <a href="#page_182">182-197</a><br /> - -Intake, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Isabella, sister of Robert Bruce, effigy of, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Isle, The, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="J"></a>James, Bishop, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -James family, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> - -Jarrow, <a href="#page_146">146-161</a><br /> - -Jarrow, monastery of, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -John the Chanter, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="K"></a>Kellaw, Bishop, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Kelyng, John, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Kerns, <a href="#page_98">98</a><br /> - -Kettles, Hell, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Kibblesworth Hall, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> - -Killhope Cross, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -— Moor, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -Knocker, sanctuary, <a href="#page_118">118-119</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="L"></a>Lady Byron’s Well, Seaham, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Lady Chapel, Durham, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Lad of Hilton, the Cau’d, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a><br /> - -Lambton Castle, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— Grange, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— William Henry, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -— Worm, the, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -— — Well, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Lambtons of Lambton, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_243">243-244</a><br /> - -Lanchester Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> - -— Roman camp at, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -Langley, Bishop, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -Law, Elizabethan Poor, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Lawrence of Durham, <a href="#page_8">8</a><br /> - -— Rev. John, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -Lee, Mary, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Legends of Durham, <a href="#page_65">65-78</a><br /> - -Leighton, Henry, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -Letters of John Wesley to Margaret Dale, <a href="#page_231">231-237</a><br /> - -Lewen, Margaret, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a><br /> - -Ley, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -Liddell family, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> - -"Life and death, power of," <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Lifeboat, first, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -Lilburne family, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -Lindisfarne, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> - -— monastery of, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_5">5</a><br /> - -Linns, <a href="#page_98">98</a><br /> - -Little Eden Tower, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -Local lore of Durham Cathedral, <a href="#page_63">63</a><br /> - -Londonderry, Marquess of, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -Low Barnes, Sunderland, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -Luck, spitting for, <a href="#page_61">61</a><br /> - -Lucky and unlucky things, <a href="#page_59">59-61</a><br /> - -— days, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Ludworth Tower, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -Lumley arms, <a href="#page_242">242</a><br /> - -— Castle, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -— tombs, Chester-le-Street, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Lumleys of Lumley, <a href="#page_241">241-243</a><br /> - -<br /> -"<a id="M"></a>Maiden garland," <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Manche in heraldry, the, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> - -Market-cross at Darlington, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Mark, Vigil of St., <a href="#page_51">51</a><br /> - -Material for tombstones, <a href="#page_196">196-197</a><br /> - -Mathew, Michael, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Mea, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -"Mell-supper," <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Melsamby, Prior Thomas of, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Memorial brasses, Billingham, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -— crosses, Anglo-Saxon, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> - -Methodism in Durham, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br /> - -Middleton, brass of William de, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -— of Silksworth, George, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -— St. George, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Sir Gilbert, <a href="#page_28">28</a><br /> - -— Thomas, of Chillingham, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Midridge Grange, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Mitford family, <a href="#page_70">70</a><br /> - -Monkchester, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Monkwearmouth, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_146">146-161</a><br /> - -Monumental brass, Haughton-le-Skerne, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -— brasses, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -— inscriptions, <a href="#page_182">182-197</a><br /> - -Moor, Killhope, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -Mortham, Robert de, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Motto, the Jameses’, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -Mulberry Inn, Felling, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="N"></a>Names of streams, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br /> - -Naunton, Elizabeth, Prioress of Neasham, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -"Need-fire," working for, <a href="#page_54">54</a><br /> - -Neile, Bishop, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Neolithic men, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Neville family, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> - -— Geoffrey de, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> - -— Henry, Earl of Northumberland, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> - -— monuments, Staindrop, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -— Ralph, Earl of Northumberland, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -— screen, <a href="#page_121">121-122</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -— tombs, Staindrop, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Neville’s Cross, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -— — Battle of, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br /> - -New Year’s Day, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Nine Altars Chapel, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -"Nominy sayer," <a href="#page_50">50</a><br /> - -Norman tower, Jarrow, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -North, Council of the, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -— Gate, Durham, <a href="#page_13">13</a><br /> - -Northumberland, Robert Cumin, Earl of, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Norton Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -— effigy at, <a href="#page_187">187</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="O"></a>Old Families of Durham, <a href="#page_239">239-256</a><br /> - -Ords of Sands Hall, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> - -Orphan Asylum, Sunderland, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="P"></a>Palace, Bishop Auckland, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> - -Palatinate of Durham, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Pallion Hall, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -Pancake Bell, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -— Tuesday, <a href="#page_56">56</a><br /> - -Parish churches of Durham, <a href="#page_162">162-181</a><br /> - -Park (De) arms, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -"Parson, the Pickled," <a href="#page_76">76</a><br /> - -Passenger railway-line, first, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Patrimony of St. Cuthbert, <a href="#page_5">5-6</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a><br /> - -Pelaw, Hob of, <a href="#page_64">64</a><br /> - -Pemberton of Bainbridge, John, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> - -Pembertons of Belmont Hall, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Pictavia, Bishop Philip de, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Pictree Brag, the, <a href="#page_76">76-78</a><br /> - -Pike, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Pilgrimage of Grace, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Pittington Church, <a href="#page_173">173</a><br /> - -Place, Francis, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Plain, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Plot, Derwentdale, <a href="#page_21">21</a><br /> - -Pollard Boar, the, <a href="#page_68">68-71</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -— family, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a><br /> - -Pools, <a href="#page_98">98</a><br /> - -Poor Law, Elizabethan, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Portents of death, <a href="#page_51">51</a><br /> - -"Power of life and death," <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Prebendaries of Durham, <a href="#page_19">19</a><br /> - -Prebend’s Bridge, Durham, <a href="#page_52">52</a><br /> - -Pre-Reformation chancel screen, Staindrop, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Prior Thomas of Melsamby, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Priory, Finchale, <a href="#page_130">130-145</a><br /> - -Pudsey, Bishop, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -— Durham Charter of, <a href="#page_30">30</a><br /> - -— Henry de, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -Pulpit, Heighington Church, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -Punning epitaphs, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="Q"></a>Quaint sepulchral inscriptions, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="R"></a>Raby Castle, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> - -— Grange, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Railway-line, first passenger, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -Ravenshelm, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Ravensworth Castle, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -— cross at, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Rebellion of the Earls, <a href="#page_18">18</a><br /> - -Redmarshall Church, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Revenue, Bishop’s, <a href="#page_11">11</a><br /> - -Ridding, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Rig, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Road, Great North, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Rolls, Halmote, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -Roman altars at Bolihope, <a href="#page_80">80</a><br /> - -— camps in Durham, <a href="#page_4">4</a><br /> - -— gravestones, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -— roads, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Rood-loft, Darlington, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -— Staindrop, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Roses, Wars of the, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br /> - -Royal Oak Day, <a href="#page_57">57</a><br /> - -Rudde brass, John, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Rushyford, <a href="#page_27">27</a><br /> - -Ruthall, Bishop, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br /> - -Ryton Church, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="S"></a>Sadberge, wapentake of, <a href="#page_9">9-14</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -St. Cuthbert’s Church, Darlington, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -St. Mary’s Church, Monkwearmouth, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Salvins of Croxdale, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> - -Sanctuary knocker, <a href="#page_118">118-119</a><br /> - -— of St. Cuthbert, <a href="#page_24">24</a><br /> - -Saxon chancel, Jarrow, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -— church at Escomb, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> - -— churches at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, <a href="#page_147">147</a><br /> - -— crosses, <a href="#page_26">26</a><br /> - -— suffixes, <a href="#page_81">81</a><br /> - -"Sayer, Nominy," <a href="#page_50">50</a><br /> - -School Aycliffe, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -— Durham, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -Screen, Neville, <a href="#page_121">121-122</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Seat, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -Secular clergy, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> - -Sedgefield, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -— — brasses in, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -— Rectory, <a href="#page_76">76</a><br /> - -Seventh sons, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br /> - -"Shafto, Bobby," <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -— family, <a href="#page_250">250</a><br /> - -Shaftos of Tanfield Leigh, <a href="#page_250">250</a><br /> - -Shaw, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Sherburn Hospital, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Shield Lawe, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -Shields, South, <a href="#page_36">36</a><br /> - -— — St. Hilda’s Church, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -"Shout the mell," <a href="#page_58">58</a><br /> - -Shrine of St. Godric, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Side, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Sikes or Sykes, <a href="#page_95">95-98</a><br /> - -Skelton, Roger, <a href="#page_72">72</a><br /> - -Snotterton Hall, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -Sockburn, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> - -— Worm, the, <a href="#page_74">74-76</a><br /> - -Solomon’s Temple, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Spires, Durham, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -"Spitting for luck," <a href="#page_61">61</a><br /> - -Spring, legend of Sir John le, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -Staindrop, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br /> - -— Church, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -— Hall, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> - -Stanhope, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a><br /> - -— Castle, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -— Hall, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -— treasure of, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br /> - -Stanley, Andrew de, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> - -Stella Hall, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> - -Stevenson family, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> - -Stockton, <a href="#page_38">38</a><br /> - -Stone and wood effigies, <a href="#page_185">185-189</a><br /> - -— Bulmer, <a href="#page_25">25</a><br /> - -— cross, <a href="#page_28">28</a><br /> - -— crosses, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Streams, names of, <a href="#page_83">83</a><br /> - -Streatlam Castle, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> - -Sunderland, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -— Orphan Asylum, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br /> - -— of Dinsdale, <a href="#page_247">247-248</a><br /> - -— Robert, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> - -Surtees, Robert, ballads, <a href="#page_65">65</a><br /> - -Symbolism on grave-covers, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Symeon of Durham, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="T"></a>Tailbois, family of, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Tempest, Colonel John, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -— family, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> - -Temple, Solomon’s, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Theodore of Tarsus, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Things lucky and unlucky, <a href="#page_59">59-61</a><br /> - -Thornton Hall, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> - -Thorpe Thewles old hall, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Tidfirth, Bishop of Hexham, epitaph, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> - -— of a deacon in Ryton Church, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -Tomb of De Bruses, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> - -— Venerable Bede’s, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> - -Tombs, Bruce, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -— Lumley, Chester-le-Street, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -— Neville, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Tombstones, material for, <a href="#page_196">196-197</a><br /> - -Tower, Dalden, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -— Darlington Church, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -— Little Eden, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> - -— Ludworth, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> - -— Monkwearmouth Church, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -— Staindrop Church, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> - -Trades, Durham, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a><br /> - -Translation of St. Cuthbert, Feast of the, <a href="#page_29">29</a><br /> - -Trotters of Helmdon, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Tyne Bridge, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="U"></a>University of Durham, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br /> - -Unlucky, things lucky and, <a href="#page_59">59</a><br /> - -Ushaw College, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="V"></a>Vane family, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> - -Van Mildert, Dr., <a href="#page_75">75</a><br /> - -Vigil of St. Mark, <a href="#page_51">51</a><br /> - -Visitation of Northumberland, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> - -— of Shropshire, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> - -— of York, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> - -Visitations, Heralds’, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a id="W"></a>Walcher, Bishop, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> - -Waltheof, Earl of Northumbria, <a href="#page_6">6</a><br /> - -Walworth Castle, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> - -Warbeck, advance of, <a href="#page_15">15</a><br /> - -War, Civil, <a href="#page_20">20</a><br /> - -Wars of the Roses, <a href="#page_14">14</a><br /> - -Washington Hall, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> - -Washingtons of Washington, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> - -Watson, Edward, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Weardale, <a href="#page_79">79</a><br /> - -— Forest of, <a href="#page_39">39</a><br /> - -Wearmouth, <a href="#page_34">34</a><br /> - -— monastery of, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a><br /> - -Weather-lore, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Weddings, <a href="#page_50">50</a><br /> - -Well, Lady Byron’s, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -— Lambton Worm, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -— Venerable Bede’s, <a href="#page_55">55</a><br /> - -Wells, <a href="#page_94">94-95</a><br /> - -Wesley, Durham associations of John, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_229">229-238</a><br /> - -West Boldon Hall, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> - -West Rainton Hall, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> - -Westholme Hall, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> - -Wharton family, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> - -Whitburn Church, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Whitefield, George, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> - -Whittingham, William, Dean of Durham, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> - -Wilkinsons of Durham, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> - -William of St. Carileph, Bishop, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Williamson family, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> - -Wills, <a href="#page_241">241</a><br /> - -Winston Church, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Witchcraft, <a href="#page_45">45</a><br /> - -Witton Castle, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Wolsingham, <a href="#page_42">42</a><br /> - -Wood and stone effigies, <a href="#page_185">185-189</a><br /> - -— punning epitaph on Ralph, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Worm, the Lambton, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> - -— the Sockburn, <a href="#page_74">74-76</a><br /> - -— Well, the, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a><br /> - -<br /> -"<a id="Y"></a>Yule dollies," <a href="#page_59">59</a><br /> -</p> - -<p class="fint">BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p> -<hr /> - -<p class="c">Selections from</p> - -<p class="c">George Allen & Sons’ List</p> -<hr /> -<p class="cbig250">MEMORIALS OF THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND</p> - -<p class="c">GENERAL EDITOR</p> - -<p class="c">REV. P. H. DITCHFIELD M.A., F.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.<span class="smcap">Hist.</span>S.</p> - -<p class="cb"><i>Beautifully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, gilt top. Price 15s. -net each.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Oxfordshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind -permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Jersey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G. </p></div> - -<p>"This beautiful book contains an exhaustive history of ‘the wondrous -Oxford,’ to which so many distinguished scholars and politicians look -back with affection. We must refer the reader to the volume itself ... -and only wish that we had space to quote extracts from its interesting -pages."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Devonshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the -Right Hon. Viscount Ebrington. </p></div> - -<p>"A fascinating volume, which will be prized by thoughtful Devonians -wherever they may be found ... richly illustrated, some rare engravings -being represented."—<i>North Devon Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Herefordshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Compton Reade</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission -to Sir John G. Cotterell, Bart. </p></div> - -<p>"Another of these interesting volumes like the ‘Memorials of Old -Devonshire,’ which we noted a week or two ago, containing miscellaneous -papers on the history, topography, and families of the county by -competent writers, with photographs and other illustrations."—<i>Times.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Hertfordshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy Cross Standing</span>. Dedicated by kind permission to the -Right Hon. the Earl of Clarendon, G.C.B. </p></div> - -<p>"The book, which contains some magnificent illustrations, will be warmly -welcomed by all lovers of our county and its entertaining -history."—<i>West Herts and Watford Observer.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Hampshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">G. E. Jeans</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind -permission to His Grace the Duke of Wellington, K.G. </p></div> - -<p>"‘Memorials of the Counties of England’ is worthily carried on in this -interesting and readable volume."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Somerset.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. J. Snell</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the -Most Hon. the Marquis of Bath. </p></div> - -<p>"In these pages, as in a mirror, the whole life of the county, -legendary, romantic, historical, comes into view, for in truth the book -is written with a happy union of knowledge and enthusiasm—a fine bit of -glowing mosaic put together by fifteen writers into a realistic picture -of the county."—<i>Standard.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Wiltshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>. </p></div> - -<p>"The admirable series of County Memorials ... will, it is safe to say, -include no volume of greater interest than that devoted to -Wiltshire."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Shropshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Auden</span>, M.A., F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p>"Quite the best volume which has appeared so far in a series that has -throughout maintained a very high level."—<i>Tribune.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Kent.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">George -Clinch</span>, F.G.S. Dedicated by special permission to the Right Hon. -Lord Northbourne, F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p>"A very delightful addition to a delightful series. Kent, rich in honour -and tradition as in beauty, is a fruitful subject of which the various -contributors have taken full advantage, archæology, topography, and -gossip being pleasantly combined to produce a volume both attractive and -valuable."—<i>Standard.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Derbyshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. Dedicated by kind -permission to His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G. </p></div> - -<p>"A valuable addition to our county history, and will possess a peculiar -fascination for all who devote their attention to historical, -archæological, or antiquarian research, and probably to a much wider -circle."—<i>Derbyshire Advertiser.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Dorset.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Thomas Perkins</span>, M.A., and the Rev. <span class="smcap">Herbert -Pentin</span>, M.A. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Lord -Eustace Cecil, F.R.G.S. </p></div> - -<p>"The volume, in fine, forms a noteworthy accession to the valuable -series of books in which it appears."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Warwickshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>. </p></div> - -<p>"Worthy of an honoured place on our shelves. It is also one of the best, -if not the best, volume in a series of exceptional interest and -usefulness."—<i>Birmingham Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Norfolk.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">H. J. Dukinfield Astley</span>, M.A., Litt.D., -F.R.Hist.S. Dedicated by kind permission to the Right Hon. Viscount -Coke, C.M.G., C.V.O. </p></div> - -<p>"This latest contribution to the history and archæology of Norfolk -deserves a foremost place among local works.... The tasteful binding, -good print, and paper are everything that can be desired."—<i>Eastern -Daily Press.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Essex.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">A. Clifton Kelway</span>, F.R.Hist.S. Dedicated by kind -permission to the Right Hon. the Earl of Warwick. </p></div> - -<p>"Will be one of the most essential volumes in the library of every man -and woman who has an interest in the county."—<i>Southend Telegraph.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Suffolk.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Vincent B. Redstone</span>, F.R.Hist.S. Dedicated by kind -permission to the Right Hon. Sir W. Brampton Gurdon. </p></div> - -<p>"Will be found one of the most comprehensive works dealing with our -county."—<i>Bury and Norwich Post.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old London.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated to Sir -John Charles Bell, Bart., late Lord Mayor of London. Two vols. -Price <b>25s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"They are handsomely produced, and the history of London as it is -unfolded in them is as fascinating as any romance."—<i>Bookman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Lancashire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by Lieut.-Colonel <span class="smcap">Fishwick</span>, F.S.A., and the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. -Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Two vols. Price <b>25s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"These fascinating volumes, re-picturing a vanished past, will long -afford keen pleasure."—<i>Manchester City Press.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Middlesex.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Tavenor-Perry</span>. </p></div> - -<p>"Closely packed with well-digested studies of the local monuments and -archæological remains."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Sussex.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Percy D. Mundy</span>. Dedicated to the Most Hon. the Marquess -of Abergavenny, K.G. </p></div> - -<p>"There is hardly a page which will not gratify the lover of the -county."—<i>Antiquary.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Yorkshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">T. M. Fallow</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated to Sir George J. -Armytage, Bart., F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p>"The book well maintains the high standard so conspicuously illustrated -in the many previous volumes."—<i>Bookseller.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Staffordshire.</p> - -<p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Beresford</span>. Dedicated to Right Rev. the Hon. -Augustus Legge, D.D., Lord Bishop of Lichfield.</p> - -<p>"Complete and most useful history of ancient Staffordshire, full of -interest and sound information."—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Cheshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the <span class="smcap">Ven. the Archdeacon of Chester</span> and the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. -Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. Dedicated to His Grace the Duke of -Westminster, G.C.V.O. </p></div> - -<p>"Very interesting and popular work of considerable merit."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> - -<p>"The book is packed with information."—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Durham.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Henry R. Leighton</span>, F.R.Hist.S. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Leicestershire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Alice Dryden</span>. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Lincolnshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Mansel Sympson</span>, M.A., M.D. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Surrey.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p><i>The following volumes are in preparation</i>:—</p> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Gloucestershire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Worcestershire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">F. B. Andrews</span>, F.R.I.B.A. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Nottinghamshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">P. W. P. Phillimore</span>, M.A., B.C.L. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of North Wales.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Berkshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">P. H. Ditchfield</span>, M.A., F.S.A. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Memorials of Old Monmouthshire.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Edited by Colonel <span class="smcap">Bradney</span>, F.S.A., and <span class="smcap">J. Kyrle Fletcher</span>. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Dinanderie: A History and Description of Mediæval Art Work in -Copper, Brass, and Bronze. </p> - -<p>By <span class="smcap">J. Tavenor-Perry</span>. With 1 Photogravure, 48 Full-page Illustrations, -and 71 Drawings in the Text. Crown 4to, Specially Designed Cloth Cover, -<b>21s.</b> net.</p> - -<p>Dinanderie was the name used to denote the various articles used for -ecclesiastical purposes with which the name of Dinant on the Meuse was -so intimately associated.</p> - -<p>No attempt has hitherto been made to describe adequately the art of the -Coppersmith, although our Museums and the Continental Church Treasuries -abound in beautiful examples of the work.</p> - -<p class="nindb">Country Cottages and Homes for Small and Large Estates. </p> - -<p>Illustrated in a Series of 53 Designs and Examples of Executed Works, -with Plans Reproduced from the Original Drawings, including 3 in Colour, -and Descriptive Text. By <span class="smcap">R. A. Briggs</span>, Architect, F.R.I.B.A., Soane -Medallist; author of "Bungalows and Country Residences." Demy 4to, -cloth, <b>10s. 6d.</b> net.</p> - -<p class="nindb">Venice in the Thirteenth and Fourteenth Centuries. From the -Conquest of Constantinople to the Accession of Michele Steno, A.D. -1204-1400. </p> - -<p>By <span class="smcap">F. C. Hodgson</span>, M.A., Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge. 620 -pages, Crown 8vo, cloth, <b>10s.</b> net. </p> - -<p>This volume is the result of several years’ research, and is a -continuation of the Author’s previous work entitled "Early History of -Venice."</p> - -<p class="nindb">Egypt and the Egyptians: Their History, Antiquities, Language, -Religion, and Influence over Palestine and Neighbouring Countries. </p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. O. Bevan</span>, M.A. With Preface by Sir <span class="smcap">George Darwin</span>. -336 pages, Crown 8vo, cloth, <b>5s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"We can recommend this compact volume to any who wish to obtain a -general knowledge of the subject."—<i>Westminster Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="cbig250">THE BRITISH EMPIRE</p> - -<p>The aim of this new series of books is to give the public at home and in -the Colonies an absolutely trustworthy, authentic, and up-to-date -description of British interests, resources, and life throughout the -Empire, which, with its great problems of government, self-defence, -finance, trade, and the representation of the coloured races, forms a -subject of at least as great and live value as any of the subjects -studied at school and university.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p><b><i>Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, gilt top, with Map, 6s. net per Vol.</i></b> </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Yesterday and To-Day in Canada.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">His Grace the Duke of Argyll</span>. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Modern India.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By Sir <span class="smcap">J. D. Rees</span>, K.C.I.E., C.V.O., M.P. Sometime Additional -Member of the Governor-General of India’s Council. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">South Africa.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By the Right Hon. <span class="smcap">John Xavier Merriman</span> of Cape Colony. </p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p><i>Other Volumes in Preparation</i> </p></div> - -<p class="cbig250">COUNTY CHURCHES</p> - -<p class="c">General Editor: <span class="smcap">Rev.</span> J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A.</p> - -<p class="c"><i>Foolscap 8vo, Cloth, 2s. 6d. per vol. net; each Volume Illustrated with -Half-tone and Line Illustrations</i></p> - -<p>A new series of small handy guides to all the Churches in each of the -Counties of England. All written by expert authors, drawing attention to -the main Architectural features, and to the Fonts, Pulpits, Screens, -Stalls, Benches, Sedilia, Lectern, Chests, Effigies in Brass and Stone, -and other Monuments. The initial date of the Registers will also be -given.</p> - -<p>The following volumes will be published immediately:—</p> - -<p><b>Norfolk</b> (Two Vols., 3s. each, 6s. net). By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., -F.S.A.</p> - -<p class="nindb"><b>Surrey.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. E. Morris</span>, B.A.</p> - -<p class="nindb"><b>Sussex.</b> By <span class="smcap">P. M. Johnston</span>, F.R.I.B.A., F.S.A.</p> - -<p class="nindb"><b>Isle of Wight.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A.</p> - -<p class="nindb"><b>Cambridge.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. H. Evelyn-White</span>, F.S.A. </p> - -<p class="c"><i>Other Volumes are being arranged</i> </p> - -<p class="nindb">Old English Gold Plate.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With numerous Illustrations of existing -specimens from the collections belonging to His Majesty the King, -the Dukes of Devonshire, Newcastle, Norfolk, Portland, and Rutland, -the Marquis of Ormonde, the Earls of Craven, Derby, and Yarborough, -Earl Spencer, Lord Fitzhardinge, Lord Waleran, Mr. Leopold de -Rothschild, the Colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, &c. Royal 4to, -buckram, gilt top. Price <b>21s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"Pictures, descriptions, and introduction make a book that must rank -high in the estimation of students of its subject, and of the few who -are well off enough to be collectors in this Corinthian field of -luxury."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Longton Hall Porcelain.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Being further information relating to this interesting fabrique, by -the late <span class="smcap">William Bemrose</span>, F.S.A., author of "Bow, Chelsea, and -Derby Porcelain." Illustrated with 27 Coloured Art Plates, 21 -Collotype Plates, and numerous line and half-tone Illustrations in -the text. Bound in handsome "Longton-blue" cloth cover, suitably -designed. Price <b>42s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"This magnificent work on the famous Longton Hall ware will be -indispensable to the collector."—<i>Bookman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Old English Silver and Sheffield Plate, The Values of, from the -Fifteenth to the Nineteenth Centuries.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">J. W. Caldicott</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Starkie Gardner</span>, F.S.A. 3000 -Selected Auction Sale Records; 1600 Separate Valuations; 660 -Articles. Illustrated with 87 Collotype Plates. 300 pages. Royal -4to, buckram. Price <b>42s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"A most comprehensive and abundantly illustrated volume.... Enables even -the most inexperienced to form a fair opinion of the value either of a -single article or a collection, while as a reference and reminder it -must prove of great value to an advanced student."—<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Old English Porcelain and its Manufactures, History of.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>With an Artistic, Industrial, and Critical Appreciation of their -Productions. By <span class="smcap">M. L. Solon</span>, the well-known Potter-Artist and -Collector. In one handsome volume. Royal 8vo, well printed in clear -type on good paper, and beautifully illustrated with 20 full-page -Coloured Collotype and Photo-Chromotype Plates and 48 Collotype -Plates on Tint. Artistically bound. Price <b>52s. 6d.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"Mr. Solon writes not only with the authority of the master of -technique, but likewise with that of the accomplished artist, whose -exquisite creations command the admiration of the connoisseurs of -to-day."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Manx Crosses; or The Inscribed and Sculptured Monuments of the Isle of -Man, from about the end of the Fifth to the beginning of the Thirteenth -Century.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">P. M. C. Kermode</span>, F.S.A.Scot., &c. The illustrations are from -drawings specially prepared by the Author, founded upon rubbings, -and carefully compared with photographs and with the stones -themselves. In one handsome Quarto Volume 11⅛ in. by 8⅝ in., -printed on Van Gelder hand-made paper, bound in full buckram, gilt -top, with special design on the side. Price <b>63s.</b> net. The edition -is limited to 400 copies. </p></div> - -<p>"We have now a complete account of the subject in this very handsome -volume, which Manx patriotism, assisted by the appreciation of the -public in general, will, we hope, make a success."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Derbyshire Charters in Public and Private Libraries and Muniment Rooms.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>Compiled, with Preface and Indexes, for Sir Henry Howe Bemrose, -Kt., by <span class="smcap">Isaac Herbert Jeayes</span>, Assistant Keeper in the Department of -MSS., British Museum. Royal 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price <b>42s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"The book must always prove of high value to investigators in its own -recondite field of research, and would form a suitable addition to any -historical library."—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Dorset Manor Houses, with their Literary and Historical Associations.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">Sidney Heath</span>, with a fore-word by R. Bosworth Smith, of -Bingham’s Melcombe. Illustrated with 40 drawings by the Author, in -addition to numerous rubbings of Sepulchral Brasses by W. de C. -Prideaux, reproduced by permission of the Dorset Natural History -and Antiquarian Field Club. Dedicated by kind permission to the -most Hon. the Marquis of Salisbury. Royal 4to, cloth, bevelled -edges. Price <b>30s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"Dorset is rich in old-world manor houses; and in this large, attractive -volume twenty are dealt with in pleasant descriptive and antiquarian -chapters."—<i>Times.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">How to Write the History of a Parish.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. An Outline Guide to -Topographical Records, Manuscripts, and Books. Revised and -Enlarged, Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, <b>3s. 6d.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p class="nindb">Church Plate of the Diocese of Bangor.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With Illustrations of about one hundred pieces -of Old Plate, including a pre-Reformation Silver Chalice, hitherto -unknown. Demy 4to, buckram. Price <b>21s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"This handsome volume is the most interesting book on Church Plate -hitherto issued."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Church Plate of the Isle of Man.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">E. Alfred Jones</span>. With many illustrations, including a -pre-Reformation Silver Chalice and Paten, an Elizabethan Beaker, -and other important pieces. Crown 4to, buckram. Price <b>10s. 6d.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"A beautifully illustrated descriptive account of the many specimens of -Ecclesiastical Plate to be found in the Island."—<i>Manchester Courier.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Cathedral Church and See of Essex.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. This book contains an -outline story of the founding of Christianity in the Kingdom of the -East Saxons in the seventh century, and the history of the Church -in Essex. Crown 8vo, with many illustrations. Paper covers, <b>1s. 6d.</b> -net; cloth gilt, <b>2s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"To Churchmen generally the little book before us should prove -especially interesting."—<i>Church Family Newspaper.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb">Garden Cities in Theory and Practice.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By <span class="smcap">A. R. Sennett</span>, A.M.I.C.E., &c. Large crown 8vo. Two vols., -attractively bound in cloth, with 400 Plates, Plans, and -Illustrations. Price <b>21s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"...What Mr. Sennett has to say here deserves, and no doubt will -command, the careful consideration of those who govern the future -fortunes of the Garden City."—<i>Bookseller.</i></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="nindb">Corporation Plate and Insignia of Office of the Cities and Towns of -England and Wales. </p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>By the late <span class="smcap">Llewellynn Jewitt</span>, F.S.A. Edited and completed with -large additions by <span class="smcap">W. H. St. John Hope</span>, M.A. Fully illustrated, 2 -vols., crown 4to, buckram, <b>42s.</b> net. Large paper, 2 vols., royal -4to, <b>63s.</b> net. </p></div> - -<p>"It is difficult to praise too highly the careful research and accurate -information throughout these two handsome quartos."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> - -<p class="nindb"><i>Completion of the Great Edition of Ruskin</i></p> - -<p>The whole of Ruskin’s works are now for the first time obtainable in a -complete, Uniform, Annotated, Illustrated, and Indexed Edition. This has -just become possible through the completion of</p> - -<p class="cbig250">THE LIFE,<br /> -LETTERS, AND WORKS OF<br /> -RUSKIN</p> - -<p class="c">EDITED BY E. T. COOK <small>AND</small> ALEXANDER WEDDERBURN</p> - -<p>The Final Volume, consisting of a Complete Bibliography and an Index to -the Whole Work, with 100,000 references, is in preparation. Its -inclusion will make this more than ever the One Reference and Library -Edition of Ruskin’s Works. With about 1800 Illustrations from drawings -by Ruskin. For full particulars of the 38 Volumes, for <b>£42</b> the set, or -in Monthly Instalments, see Prospectus.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"> -George Allen & Sons, Ruskin House<br /> -Rathbone Place, London<br /> -</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Freeman, <i>Norman Conquest</i>, i. 321. The Empire, of course, -means that great medieval constitution of Central Europe corresponding -very roughly indeed to Germany. The German Empire, as we know it, only -dates from 1870.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This important matter, with its bearing upon the Palatinate -Power, was first noticed by Mr. K. C. Bayley, <i>Victoria County History</i>, -ii. 137.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See Dr. Lapsley’s book, <i>The County Palatine of Durham</i>, -which forms a very able survey of the development of the whole system.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Dr. Lapsley describes Boldon Book in the <i>Victoria County -History of Durham</i>, vol. i. See also ii. 179.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See Dr. Bradshaw’s account of the Black Death and its -effect in the <i>Victoria County History</i>, ii. 209-222.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> No account of the legends of Durham would be complete -without some note upon Robert Surtees’ ballads, several of which he -foisted upon the unsuspecting Walter Scott as genuine antiques. Perhaps -the most weird and effective is the one generally known as the "Legend -of Sir John le Spring," the scene of which is in Houghton, the <i>alma -mater</i> of the poet’s own schoolboy days. One or two of the verses, which -are well known in the North, run: -</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Pray for the sowle of Sir John-le-Spring,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">When the black monks sing—<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And the Vesper bells ring;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Pray for the sprite of a murdered Knight,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Pray for the sowle of Sir John-le-Spring.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">He fell not, before the....—♰<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The waning crescent fled,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">When the Martyr’s palm and golden crown<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Reward Christ’s soldier dead.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"He fell not in the battle-field,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Beneath St. George’s banner bright,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">When the pealing cry of victory—<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Might cheer the sowle of a dying knight;<br /></span> -<span class="i2">But at dead of night, in the soft moonlight,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In his garden bower—he lay;<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And the dew of sleep, did his eyelids steep<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In the arms of his leman gay.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"And by murderous hand, and bloody brand,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In that guilty bower—<br /></span> -<span class="i2">With his paramour,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Did his sowle from his body fleet,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And through mist and mirk, and moonlight gray,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Was forc’d away from the bleeding clay,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">To the dreaded judgment seat."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This is proved by an inquest taken at Hilton in that year. -<i>Cf.</i> Bishop Swaby’s <i>History of the Hiltons of Hilton Castle</i>, p. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>The River-Names of Europe</i>, pp. 33, 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Pudsey commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of -the church which, as was said, St. Cuthbert shook down.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> About the year 1800 the whole cathedral underwent a -process of chiselling, in order to render the surface uniform. This was -done under the superintendence of Wyatt, and in some parts four inches -in depth were removed by the operation. The evidence of this is apparent -in several places on the north side of the choir and nave, where, in -consequence of the soil having accumulated several feet in height, that -part of the building has escaped being pared down. What has been the -result is shown there in the nook shafts of the arcade, which have been -reduced from a due proportion to one most inadequate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> It is possible that Basire, whose words are rather -curious, simply means that he destroyed the chapels. He speaks of them -as "being blown up by Sir Arthur Haslerig in the Gunpowder Plot of the -late Rebellion."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Some years before 1834, when Mackenzie wrote, a portion of -it had been "converted into a respectable and substantial house," and -was then the residence of Mr. Henry Morton, Lord Durham’s agent. In or -about 1875 the house underwent further changes, and has now for many -years been known as Lambton Grange. There is, however, another building -in the Park, locally known as the old Hall, and at one time used as a -brewery, which may represent some intermediate residence.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The above account of Lambton Castle is abridged from an -address given by the late Henry Leighton of Lambton Grange, when acting -as chairman at the dinner given to the workmen on the completion of the -restoration of Lambton Castle, January 18, 1868.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> A somewhat similar building is at Bale Hill, near -Wolsingham.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> A considerable portion of the Tower fell in February, -1890, leaving portions of the west and south walls still standing.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> So Surtees sayeth. <i>A falcon on a tun</i> was the family -crest.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The tablet in the church which Surtees noted to the memory -of William James has disappeared. There is a large marble tablet on the -north wall to the memory of James Brack and his three wives, which reads -rather curiously owing to the major portion of the inscriptions having -been raised and the panel containing his name inserted last. At the foot -the family arms have been emblazoned, a scarlet shield, having -apparently a passant lion of the same colour on a silver chief, and -impaling the sable shield with the engrailed fess and silver hands of -the Bates. The colours are badly rubbed and will not survive many more -cleanings.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The late Mr. Boyle described the house as "ugly," an -opinion we cannot agree with. If not beautiful, it is certainly a -handsome old building.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> The writer of this chapter would be very grateful if any -reader who should chance to know where the other letters are would -communicate with him.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> See <i>Dictionary of National Biography</i>, for Canon Dale, -vol. xiii.; for Thomas Pelham Dale, <i>ibid.</i>, supplement, vol. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The descendants of George Dale, the elder brother of Ralph -Dale, this Edward Dale’s great grandfather, were apparently extinct in -the male line by 1750, although George Dale, by his marriage with -Elizabeth, daughter of John Lively, Vicar of Kelloe, 1625-56, had at -least three sons alive in March, 1655-56—namely, Edward, John, and -Anthony.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> See the paper on John Lawrence in vol. iv. of the -Proceedings of the Sunderland Antiquarian Society.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The letter has appeared in a privately printed magazine, -the <i>Family News</i>. See British Museum catalogue, under "Periodicals: -Northwood."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> See <i>A Christian Sketch of Lady Maxwell</i>, by Robert -Bourne. London, 1819.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> When he was in America, he had proposed to and been -rejected by a Miss Hopkey in 1757, and in 1748 he had been engaged to a -Miss Murray, so that his opinion of the advantage of celibacy had known -some variation.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> See <i>Dictionary of National Biography</i>, vol. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Their early pedigree has been printed in detail by the -Rev. William Greenwell in the seventh volume of the <i>New History of -Northumberland</i>. Their later descents have been fully dealt with, so far -as Raby and this county are concerned, by Surtees. It therefore seems -needless, in a limited volume like this, to retrace their fortunes -already so well traced. See also an interesting account of the family by -another local writer in <i>The House of Neville in Sunshine and Shade</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> For an interesting note upon the Eures, rather apt to be -overlooked, see the <i>Archæological Journal</i>, 1860, p. 218. The family -motto was <i>Vince malum bono</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Readers interested in the Visitations should read Mr. -George Grazebrooke’s very interesting introduction to the Harleian -Society’s <i>Visitation of Shropshire</i>, 1623 (vol. xxviii.). Commenting -upon a similar state of affairs in that county, he says: "Such names -shew that although it is very pleasant to a family to find their -descents duly recorded, still the absence of their name altogether from -the list is no proof whatever that their social position and heraldic -rights were not all the time perfectly well assured."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> The origin of the Greenwells may be compared with an -interesting paper upon "Clerical Celibacy in the Diocese of Carlisle," -by the Rev. James Wilson, in <i>Northern Notes and Queries</i>, 1906, p. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Another descent of the Blacketts from the Conyers has been -pointed out by the late Mr. Cadwallader Bates. <i>Cf.</i> his Letters, p. -124.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The Pemberton descent given in Burke’s <i>Landed Gentry</i> -needs correction. <i>Cf.</i> Foster’s <i>Visitations of Durham</i>, p. 251, -footnote 2.</p></div> -</div> - -<table style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;" -id="transcrib"> -<tr><th>Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td> -<p class="c">The Church from the North-west, Finchale Priory 136=> The Church from -the North-west, Finchale Priory 139 {pg xii}</p> - -<p class="c">frequently occuring Celtic=> frequently occurring Celtic {pg 87}</p> - -<p class="c">the orginal chancel=> the original chancel {pg 173}</p> -</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMORIALS OF OLD DURHAM ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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